...I ..NCE- SERIES THB N U RS ^KY ' -B^ C OK ■ BAILEY. The Nursery Book. A Complete Guide to the Multiplica- tion of Plants. By L. H. Bailey. Eleventh Edition. Dec. cloth, xi+365 pp., illus., index, 12mo, $1.50* (by mail, $1.66) Note. — A reprint of one of the most satisfactory of those practical guidej for farmers and gardeners, forming the "Rural Science Series." It con- . tains more than one hundred and fifty illustrations. Alberi R. Mann Library CoHNli.L UnIVEK-MTY THE NURSERY- BOOK ^^e (Battien ' Craft femes The Horticulturist's Rule Book The Nursery -Book Plaxt Brep;ding The Forcing -Book The Pruning- Book Garden - Makini; The Practical Garden- Book Otliers iit prr/^aratioit THE NURSERY-BOOK A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE MULTIPLICATION OF PLANTS BY L. H. BAILEY ELEVENTH EDITION THE MACMILLAN COMPANY LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd. iyu7 All right:i faeived SB Copyright, 1896 By L. H. bailey Si_-t up and eleciroCypcd August, iSo^ Reprinted January, 1897. July> 1898, May, 1900, July, igoi Hehruary, September, 1903, February, i^os, January, lune, 1906, August, ifjo? }. Horace McFarland Company HarrisbuTE, Pennsylvania PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. This little handbook aims at nothing more than an account of the methods commonly employed in the prop- agation and crossing of plants, and its province dues not extend, therefore, to the discussion of any of the ultimate results or influences of these methods. All such ques- tions as those relating to the formation of buds, the reciprocal influences of cion and stock, comparative ad- vantages of whole and piece roots, and the results of pollination, do not belong here. In its preparation I have consulted freely all the best literature of the subject, and I have been aided by many persons. The entire volume has been read by skilled propagators, so that even all such directions as are com. monly recommended in other countries have also been sanctioned, if admitted, as best for this. In the propaga- tion of trees and shrubs and other hardy ornamentals, I have had tlie advice of the head propagator of one of the largest nurseries in this country. The whole volume has also passed through the hands of B. M. Watson, of the Eussey Institution of Harvard University, a teacher of un- usual skill and experience in this direction, and who has added greatly to the value of the book. The articles upon orchids, and upon most of the different genera of orchids in the Nursery List, have been contributed by W. J. Bean, (V) VI PREFACE. of the Royal Gardens, Kew, who is well known as an orchid specialist. I have drawn freely upon the files of magazines, Iioth domestic and foreign, and I have made particular use (>( Nicholson's Illustrated Dictionary of Gardenin.g, Vilmorin's Les I'leurs de Pleine Terre, Le Bon Jardinier, and Riimpler's Illustrirtes Gartenbau- Lexikon. It is believed that the Nursery List contains all the plants which are ordinarily grown by horticulturists in this country, either for food or ornament. But in order to gi\'e some clue to the propagation of any which are omitted, an ordinal inde.\ has been added, by which one can search out plants of a given natural order or family. It cannot be hoped that tlie book is complete, or that the directions are in every case best for all regions, and F.riy corrections or additions which will be uselul in the preparation of a second edition are solicited. L. H. BAILEY. Ithac.\, N. v., January i, 1891. PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION. ' This manual was first published in 1S91, by the Rural Publishing Company. In 1S92, the publishers made a second edition from the same plates ; and both editions are exhausted. The book has had no revision or corrections, therefore, until the present lime. It has enjoj-ed a popularity far beyond its merits, and it has, therefore, seemed worth wliile to fully revise and recast it, and to make it one of the Garden-Craft Series. In this revision, it has seemed best to give a some- what full discussion of the too prevalent assumption that graftage is necessarily a devitalizing process, and to analyze the unclassified knowledge respecting the mutual influences of stock and cion, and the respective peculi- arities of root-grafted and budded fruit trees. Some- thing has also been said respecting the so-called e-\haustion of nursery land, and of various other nur- sery matters upon which there seems to be much mis- understanding. The Nursery List now comprises the notes and suggestions of many correspondents, and the results of the e.xperience and experiment of five addi- tional years. Tlie entire volume has been thoroughly ransacked and renovated, and in this work I have (vii) Vm PREFACE. been aided by B. M. Watson, to whose efficient aid the first edition owed so much, and by my associate, E. G. Lodeman. The chapter upon pollination has been omitted in this edition, because a similar one has been incorpor- ated in my "Plant-Breeding." The ordinal index, which was a separate feature of the other editions, is now included in the regular index. L. H. BAILEY. Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y.,July i, 1896, CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Pace Seedage 1-25 I- Requisites of Geimiiiatiun i Regulation of Moisture i Requirements of Temperature 7 Influence of Light upon Germination 8 Regermination 9 2. Seed-Testing 9 3. The Handling and Souing of Seeds and Spores. ... 15 Preparatory Treatment of Seeds .... 15 Transportation of Seeds from Abroad ] 9 Sowing 20 Damping-off 23 Spores 24 CHAPTER II. Separation and Division 26-34 I Separation 26 2. Division 32 CHAPTER III. Laverage 35-43 CHAPTER IV. CUTTAGE 44-72 I. General Requirements of Cuttings 44 Devices for Regulating Moisture and Heat .... 44 Bottom Heat 53 (ix) x contents Pace Soils ' 54 The Formation of Roots • • ■ 55 2. The Various Kinds of Cuttings 58 Tuber Cuttings 59 Root Cuttings 60 Stem Cuttings 62 Leaf Cuttings 70 CHAPTER V. Graftage 73-156 1. General Considerations 73 Mutual Influence of Stock and Cion 74 Limits of Graftage 77 General Methods 78 Classification of Graftage 79 Is Graftage a Devitalizing Process? Si 2. Budding 94 Shield-budding 95 Prong-budding 105 Plate-budding 105 H-budding 106 Flute-budding , . . 106 Chip-budding 107 3. Grafting 107 Whip-grafting 108 Modified Whip-grafts 1 1 1 Saddle -grafting 113 Splice-grafting 113 Veneer-grafting 113 Side-grafting 115 Inlaying 117 Cleft-grafting i iS Bark-grafting 129 Herbaceous-grafting , 130 Seed-grafting 131 Cutting-grafting 131 contents. xi Page Double-working 133 Inarching 132 Grafting Waxes 134 Nursery Management 138 Nursery Lands 139 Grades of Trees 142 The Storing of Trees 143 Trimming Trees in the Nursery 146 Dwarfing 147 Root Grafted vs. Budded Trees 148 CHAPTER VI. The Nurserv List 157-336 Glossary 337 Index 349 THE NURSERY-BOOK. CHAPTER I. SEEDAGE. 1. REQUISITES OF GERMINATION. There are three external requisites to the germination of seeds — -moisture, free oxygen, and a definite temperature. These requisites are demanded in different degrees and pro])ortions by seeds of different species, or even by seeds of the same species when differing widely in age or in degree of maturity. The supply of oxygen usually regu- lates itself It is only necessary that the seeds sliall not be planted too deep, that the soil is porous and not overloaded with water. Moisture and temperature, how- ever, must be carefully regulated. Regulation of Moisture. — Moisture is tlie most important factor in seedage. It is usually ap- plied to the seeds by means of soil or some similar medium, as moss i/* or cocoanut fiber. Fresh and vig- orous seeds endure heavy water- ings, but old and poor seeds must be given very little water. If there is reason to suspect that the seeds are weak, water should not be ap- plied to them directly. A favorite metliod of handling weak and also /. Double md put 2 SEEDAGE. very small seeds is to sow them in a pot of loose and sandy loam which is set inside a larger pot, the intermediate space being tilled with moss, to which, alone, the water is applied. This device is illustrated in Fig. i. The water soaks through the walls of the inner pot and is supplied gradually and con- stantly to the soil. Even in this case it is necessary to pre- vent soaking the moss too thoroughly, especially with very weak seeds. When many pots are required, they may 1)6 simply plunged in moss with the same eflect. The soil should be simply very slightly moist, never w et. Moisture is sometimes supplied by setting the seed-pot in a shallow saucer of water, or it may be sufficient to simply place it in the humid atmosphere of a propagating-box. Large but weak seeds may be laid upon the surface of the soil in a halffilled pot, covered with thin muslin, and then covered "with loose and damp loam. Every day the pot is inverted, the covering taken off and fresh soil added. A modifica- tion of this plan, for small seeds, can be made l)y' placing the seeds between two layers of thin muslin and inserting them in damp loam, which is frequently renewed to avoid the e-\tremes which would result from watering or from allowing the soil to become dry. In these last operations, no water is applied to the seeds, and they constitute one of the most satisfactory methods of dealing «-ith seeds of low viability. They are essentially the methods long ago used by Knight, who laid such seeds between two sods cut from an old and dry pasture. Even sound and strong seeds should be watered with care. Drenchings usually weaken or destrov them. Tlie earth should be kept simply damp. To insure comparati\-e dryness in indoor culture, some loose material, as pieces of broken pots or clinkers, should be jilaced in the bottom of the pot or fioxt.) afford drain.igc. It should be borne in mind, however, that the seed-bed should be appro.\imatelv equally moist throughout its depth. The waterings should, therefore, be copious enough to moisten tlie soil througliout. SOAKING SEEDS. A wet or moist surface over a dry substratum should always be avoided. Error is common here. It is usually Ijest to apply water with a watering-pot, as watering with a hose is apt to wash out the seeds and to pack the soil, and the quantity of water is not so easily regulated. At lirst thought, it would appear that the apparently good results following soaking of seeds in many cases are a contra- diction of these statements that seeds may be over-watered. But soaking is usually beneficial only when practiced for a comparatively short time. It is not good [iractice to soak delicate seeds before sowing, and it is of doubtful utility in most other cases, unless it is necessary to soften the integu- ments of hard-shelled species, as discussed on page i6. The gain in rapidity of germination following soaked, as compared with dry seeds, is often fictitious, inasmuch as germi- nation actually begins in the soaked seed before the dry samples are sown. The soaked seeds are sown in water rather than in soil, and as conditions are more uniform there, a .gain appar- ently due to soaking may result. In the case of strong seeds which must be planted outdoors in cold or uncongenial soil, a preliminary soaking of from 12 to 24 hours may be bene- ficial, as it lessens the period which the seeds would other- wise pass in untoward conditions. But soaked seeds, unless of very hardy species, should never be sown outdoors until the soil has become rather dry and warm. To prevent too rapid drying out, the soil should be firmly pressed about the seeds. The pot or box should be given a shady place, or some covering may be applied to check evaporation. A pane of glass is often placed over the pot (Fig. 2) or box, being tilted a little at intervals to allow of ventilation and to prevent the soil from becoming soggy or "sour." A seed case, with a glass cover, as shown in Fig. 3, is neat and handy in the treatment of small seeds. Seed-pot, covered with gtass. J. Glass-covered seed-case. A thin covering of fine moss is sometimes given, or a news- paper may be thrown over the soil. In outdoor culture, only a naturally dry and well-drained soil should be chosen for all ordinary seeds, (■S]5ecially for such as are sown in the fill or remain in the ground a long time before germinating. Soils which contain a liberal amount of sand or gravel are especially val- uable for this purpose. To prevent ilrying' in outdoor culture, it is iniport.'uit that tlie earth be well firmed over the seeds. Walking on the row, placing one foot directly ahead of the other, is usually the most expeditious and satisfactory operation, at least with large seeds. Or the earth may be firmed with a hi:)e or the back of a spade, or a board may be placed upon the rou' and then be thoroughly settled by walking o\'er it. For small lots of seeds, it is well to cover them with an inverted flower-pot (Fig. .\), exercising care to tilt it frequently to prevent the plants from "drawing." In the sowing of celery and other small and slow seeds, it is a frequent practice to leave the board on the row until tile seeds appear, ill order tci hold the mois- ture. This is a doubtful ex- pedient, however, for the young plants are apt to lie quickly dispatched liy the sun when the board is removed. If tlie board is ei i|)loyed, it should he raised an inch or two from the gio ind as soon as the plants begin to appear. But the shade of the "ij'^-ard is tO(.> dense, and plants do not grow stocky under It. It is better to use brush or lath screens if protection is desired; or fine litter, if free from weed seeds, may be used. In most cases, however, screens will not be needed f. Sced^ LOTetrd ivtth flower-pot. SUN-SCREENS FOR SEEDS. by celery and similar seeds if the ground is in the proper condition, so that it will neither bake nor dry out quickly, and is well firmed at planting time, and if the seeds are sown early, before hot, dry weather comes. It is always advisable, nevertheless, to place the beds for slow and small seeds where they can be watered occasionally. There are many kinds of screens in use to prevent the drying out of small seeds in outdoor seedage and to pro tect the young seed- lings. These are used also in the shading of cuttings. The common lath screen (Fig. 5) is the most useful for general purposes. It is simply a square frame made from common laths laid at right angles in a double series. The interstices between the laths are equal in width to the laths themselves. These screens are laid horizontally upon a light framework a few inches above the seeds. The pas- sage of the sun constantly moves the shadows over the bed, and sufficient shade is afforded while th(jrough ventilation is allowed. This and all other ele\ated screens are useful in shading and protecting the young plants as wrll, but when B used for this purpose they are usually raised a greater dis- tance above the beds. A brush screen, consisting of a low frame covered with boughs, is often used, as shown in Fig. 6. This is cheaper than the lath screens, and is equally as good 7. Screen for fvaTnez. for most purposes. The l.)rush is often laid directly upon the ground, especially in large beds. This answers the purpose of shading, l)ut it does not allow of weeding, and it must be taken off soon after the seeds germinate, or slender plants will be injured in its removal. Brush screens are sometimes raised three or four feet to allow of weeding. A screen for Irames is shown in Fig. 7. It is a simple covering of muslin stretched over tlie top and sides of a rough framework. The cloth is usually omitted from the front side. This style ol screens is much used by nurserymen, espe cially for cutting-beds. Whitewashing the sashes of coldframes also alfords good shading. A more elaborate and perma- nent screen is shown in Fig. 8. It is built of slats, usually 3 inch stult. This shed screen is oftenest used ior the pro- tection of tender ])lants, but it affords an exceedingly use- J. shed scree}i J\r seeds and plants REQUIREMENTS OF TEMPERATURE. 7 ful and convenient place for the storage of pots and boxes of slow-germinating seeds. A more elaborate shed screen, rriade of lath or slats, and containing seed-beds edged with boards, is shown in Fig. 9. Various frames and covers are employed for indoor seedage, but they are designed to regulate atmospheric moisture and to control temperature. They are more p. Large shed screen, with seed-beds. commonly employed in the growing of cuttings, and are, therefore, described in Chapter IV. Requirements of Temperature. — Variations in temperature e.Kercise less influence upon seeds than variations in moisture. Yet it is important that the e.xtremes of temperature should not be great, especially in small, delicate or weak seeds. .Seeds will endure greater extremes of temperature when dry than when moist. This indicates that germinating seeds nuist be kept in a comparatively uniform temperature. For this reason it is pour practice to put seed-boxes in a window in full sunlight. Partial or complete shade serves the double purpose of preventing too great heat and too rapid evapora- tion. Various covered seed-boxes are used for the purpose of maintaining approximately the required temperature, but as they are oftener used in bud-propagation, they are dis- cussed in that connection. Bottom heat is lielpful to germination in most seeds, but, except in the case of certain tropical species, it should not be strong. It is a common practice to place seed-bo.xes on moderately cool pipes under benches in a greenhouse. Seeds of nardy annuals and perennials do not require botton heat, although they may be benefited by it. If the soil in seed- beds should become too cool, watering with warm or tepid water will be found to be helpful. It is impossible to give rules for the determination o( the proper temperature for different kinds of seeds. In general, it may be said that seeds germinate most rapidly at a tem- perature a few degrees above that required for the best development of the plant itself Seeds of hardy plants re- quire a temperature of from 50° to 70°, conservatory plants from 60° to So°, and tropical or stove plants from 75° to 95°. The plantlets should be removed from these highest tem- peratures, as a rule, as soon as germination is completed. In outdoor culture, depth of planting has a direct relation to temperature. Seeds may l)e planted deeper late in the season than early, when the soil is cold and damp. Deep planting probably as often kills seeds because of the absence of sufficient heat as from the lack of oxygen or the great de]5th of earth, through which the plantlet is unable to push. Lifluence of Light upon Germination. — The influence which light exerts upon germination is not definitely understood for all horticultural seeds. It is known, however, that seeds will often germinate in full sunlight, if the proper conditions of moisture an.S: Co., of North Cambridge, .Mass., the pattern being nuK h like that used at the Seed Control Station at Zurich, Switzerland. They are 3 inches in diameter and i^ inches high, including the cover, which is ven- tilated, as shown in Fig. 13. The bottom is solid and '2-inch thick. Each cup is placed in a glass dish in which a constant supply of water is kept." These cups are placed in a " Sjirouting chamber" (Fig. 141, supjilied with unif)rm heat. "This hi.ilds about llt'ly cups. Ileat is su]iplied l>y a gas jet, which is supported beneath the chamber, and it is tlistribiUed evenly to all sides of the chamber, except the front, by means of ;i water-jacket. It is pro- \"ided with two doors, the inner one being glass. There is an oix-ning in the side and tup for \-ent\lating, and a second opening in the tup for the insertion of a thermum- eter. There are also two openings into the water-jacket 7J. Sj»OUl, STRATIFYING SEEDS. 15 at the top. . In one of these a thermostat (c) is placed, which controls the flow of gas at the jet beneath, and in the other a thermometer (d) may be placed to show the temperature of the water in the jacket." 3. THE HANDLING AND SOWING OF SEEDS AND SPORES. Preparatory Treatijient of Seeds. — Many seeds demand some treatment preparatory to sow- ing. Nearly all hard and bony seeds fail to germinate, or at least germinate very irregularly, if their contents are allowed to become thoroughly dry and hard. The shells must also be softened or broken, in many cases, before the embryo can grow. Nature treats such seeds by keeping them con stantly moist under leaves or mold and by cracking them with frost This suggests the practice known to gardeners as stratification, an operation which consists in mix ing seeds with cartli and e.xpos ing them to frost or to moistuie for a considerable time. Stratification is practiced, as a rule, with all nuts, the seeds of forest trees, shrubs, the pips of liaws and often of roses, and in many cases with the seeds of common fruits. Seeds sliould be stratified as soon as possible after they are mature. Small seeds are usually placed in thin layers in a bo.x alternating with an inch or two of sand. Sometimes the seeds are mi.xed indiscriminately in the sand, but unless they are large it is difficult to separate them out at sowing-time. The sand is often sown witli the seed.s, however, Ijut it is difficult in such cases to distribute the seeds evenly, and 14. sprouting chamber. l6 SEEriAGR. in sowing larse quantities the handling of the sand entails a considerable burden and becomes an item of expense. It is advisable to pass the sand through a sieve of finer mesh than the seeds, and the seeds can then be sifted out at sowing-time. If the seeds are very small or very few in number, they may be placed between folds of thin muslin, which is then laid in the sand. Any shallow box, like a gardener's "flat," is useful in making stratifica- tions, or pots may be used with small lots of seeds. A flat four inches in depth might contain two or three layers or strata of seeds the size of peas. The disposition of the boxes when filled varies with dif- ferent operators. Some prefer to bury them. In this case a well-drained sandy slope is chosen. The flats are placed in a trench from one to two feet deep, covered with a single thickness of boards, and the trench is then filled with earth. The seeds usually freeze somewhat, although freezing is not considered necessary unless in the case of nut-like seeds. The object attained in burying is to keep the seeds moist and fresh, inducing the rotting or softening of the coverings, while they are buried so deep that they will not sprout. Seeds of most forest trees should be treated in this manner. They are commonly left in the ground until the following spring, when they are taken up and sown in drills in mellow ground. If good loam, to which has been added a little well-rotted manure, is used, the seeds or nuts of hardy trees and shrubs may be allowed to germinate and grow for one season in the flats. At the end of the season or the next spring, the plants can be transplanted without losing one. This is, perhaps, the best way to handle rare and difficult subjects. Many growers place the boxes on the surface in some protected place, as under trees or in a shed, and co\'er them during winter a foot deep with clean straw or leaves. If boxes are piled on top of each i.ither they should be mulched with moss, else the under ones may become too dry. Or the boxes may be placed, without covering, in a shed, bui TREATMENT OF BONY SEEDS. 17 they must be examined occasionally to see tliat tliey do not become too dry. Precaution must also be taken to keep away mice, squirrels, blue-jays, and otlier intruders. Large, nut-like seeds or fruits, like peacli-pits, walnuts and liickory-nuts, are usually buried in sand or ligiit loam where they may freeze. Or sometimes the large nuts are thrown into a pile with earth and allowed to remain on the surface. Freezing serves a useful purpose in aiding to crack the shells, but it is not essential to subsequent germination, as is commonly supposed. All seeds, so far as known, can be grown without the agency of frost, if properly handled. Fall sowing amounts to stratification, but unless the soil is mellow and very thoroughly drained the practice is not advisable. The seeds are liable to be heaved or washed out, or eaten by vermin, and the soil is apt to bake over them. Under proper conditions, h jwever, tlie seeds of fruits and many forest trees tlirive well under fall sowin.g. The seeds should be sown as soon as they are ripe, even if in mid- summer ; or if the ground is not ready for them at that lime, they may be temjjorarily stratified to prevent too great hard- ening of the 'parts. It is best, however, to allow all green or moist seeds to dry off a few days before they are strati- fied. Fall-sown seeds should always be mulched. Some seeds rarely germinate until the second year after maturity, even with the best of treatment. The thorns, mountain ash, lioUies, viburnums, some roses, and many others belong to this category. Some growers sow them re.gularly as soon as they are ripe, and allow the beds to remain until the seeds appear. Tliis is a waste of land and of labor in weeding, and the best way is to stratify them and allow them to remain until the first or second spring before sowing. Partial substitutes for stratification are soaking and scald- ing the seeds. Soaking may be advantageously practiced in the case of slow and hard seeds which are not enclosed in bony shells, and which ha\e been allowed to become dry. Seeds of apple, locust, and others of similar character, are IB SEEDAGE. sometimes treated in this manner. They are soaked for 24 or 36 hours, and it is commonly supposed that if they are exposed to a sharp frost in the meantime, better results will follow. While still wet the seeds are sown. Scalding water may be poured over locust and other seeds to soften their coverings, but seeds should not be boiled, as some- times recommended. The sfermination of bony seeds is often facilitated by filing or cuttini^ away the shell very carefully near the germ, or by € boring them. A bored nelumbiuni seed is v^ shown in Fig. 15. iMoonfluwer and canna l\ seeds are similarly treated. J Treatment with various chemicals has been * recommended for the purpose of softening /• Boicd iced integuments, and also for some power which strong oxidizing agents are supposed to exert in hastenmg germination itself, but the advantages are mostly imaginary. Secret and patented "germinator" compounds had better be avoided. Pulpy and fleshy coverings should be removed from seeds before sowing. Soft fruits, hke berries, are broken up or ground into a pulp, and the seeds are then washed out. Tiiis separation may be perlormed immediately in some cases, but when the pulp adheres to the seed, the whole mass is usually allowed to stand until fermentation and partial decay have liberated the seeds. The pulp will then rise, in most instances, leaving the seeds at the bottom of the Vessel. Seeds can be liberated quickly by adding a stick of caustic potash to each pail of water. After the mass has stood an hour or so, the seeds can lie rubbed out easily. Even tomato seeds can be cleaned with safety in this manner. Seeds which have thin pulp, as the viburnums and many haws, can be prepared by rubbing them through the hands with shar]") sand. Or the scant pulp of such seeds may be allowed t(j rut off in the stratification box. Fleshy coverings of hard and bony seeds may be removed by mac- eration. Allow them to stand in water at a temperature of TRANSPORTATION OF EXOTIC SEEDS. ig about 75° for one to three weeks, and then wash tliem out. Resinous coverings are sometimes removed by mi.xing the seeds with fresh ashes or lime, or by treating them with lye. Hard, thick-walled seeds are rarely injured by the decay of the pulpy covering, but thin-walled seeds should be cleaned, to avoid the possibility of damage arising from the decay of the pulp. Transportation of Seeds from Abroad.- -The transporta- tion of certain kinds of seeds over long distances, especially on sea voyages, is often beset with difficulties. Thick-meated or soft seeds may become too dry if stored in a warm place or too moist if stored in a cool one. The humid at- mosphere of the ocean is fatal to some seeds unless they are well protected, and the moist and hot climates of some tropical countries destroy many seeds of cooler regions be- fore they can be planted, or cause them to sprout in transit. Thin-coated seeds demand dryness and air, and bony seeds usually need moisture and a more confined atmosphere. Most seeds may be sent dry and loose in coarse paper packages under all ordinary circumstances ; but if they are to traverse very hot and moist climates, they should be sealed in tin cases or very securely wrapped in oiled paper, in which case the seeds should be thoroughly dried before being packed, and precautions taken to insure the dryness of the air in the package. Small seeds which are liable to become moldy may be packed in finely powdered charcoal. Apple and pear seeds are often imported in this manner. The Seeds or fruits of woody plants require more careful management. They should generally be transported in some sort of stratification. A favorite method is to place them in bo.xes or jars, mi.xed with naturally moist sand or sawdust, or slightly moist dead sphagnum moss. Some prefer to seal the packages hermetically, but under ordinary C(jnditions this is unnecessary. In transit, the packages should be stored in a medium and uniform temperature. Even acorns, which are often difficult to transport over long voyages, may be carried in this manner with safety. It is 20 ' SEEDAGE. important that the soil should not be wet. Natural soil from a dryish and roamy pasture is excellent. In some cases it is better to sprout the seeds in the native country and ship the seedlings in a closed or Wardian case. Sowing. — The soil in which seeds are sown, especially in indoor culture, should be such as to allow of perfect drain- age and at the same time to hold moisture. Good potting soil, with a liberal allowance of sharp sand, is the best for general purposes. Pure sand becomes too dense, and leaf mold alone is usually too loose and open. A proper combi- nation of the two corrects both faults. It is impossible to describe a good potting or seed-bed soil. Some e.xperience is essential to the best results in preparing it. It should be of such character that when a damp portion is firmly com- pressed in the hand it will fall apart when released. It should never bake. Good old garden loam, to which ar. equal quantity of sand has been added, is usually a good soil for common indoor seedage. There should be no manure in soil used for seeds which produce a delicate growth, as rhododendrons and kalmias In all such cases, rotted sod or leafy peat is an excellent medium. Live sphagnum moss is also a good material upon which to sow various heath-like seeds, as kalmias, andromedas, and the like. .Soil should be sifted and thoroughly fined before seeds are put into it. Seeds usually require lighter soil than that in which the growing plant will flourish. Cocoanut fiber is sometimes used in place of the soil, as it holds moisture, allows of almost perfect drainage, and does not become "sour." Fine dead sphagnum moss may also l)e used. Orchid seeds are usually sown on the live moss in which the parent plant is growing ; or they may be sown on damp wood or cork. (See under Orchids, Chap. \T. ) Small seeds, like those ol cineraria and calceolaria, germinate well in very old cow- dung obtained from a pasture, from \\iiich the unctuous matters have disapjieared, leaving a fibrous remainder. But all things C(jnsidered, well-prepared soil is the most satisfactory medium which can lie used for most seeds. SOWING OF DELICATE SEEDS. 31 Seeds of aquatic plants, which are to be sown in a pond, may be placed in a ball of clay and dropped into the water. Water lily seeds may be sown in the greenhouse in sub- merged pots or pans. Shallow boxes or "flats" and earthen seed-pans and lily-pans are usually preferable to pots in which to sow seeds. They give more surface in proportion to their contents, and require less attention to drainage. If pots are used, the 4 to 6-inch sizes are best. All delicate seeds, like tuberous begonias, primulas, gloxinias, and also spores, are generally sown in pots or pans, which are covered with a pane of glass. (See Figs. 2 and 3.) If delicate seeds are sown outdoors, they should be given some protection, if possible. An ordinary hotbed frame gives the best results. In warm weather or a sunny expo- sure it will be found desirable to substitute a cloth screen for the sash. A thin or medium water proof plant-cloth, either commercial or home-made, is excellent for this purpose. It may be tacked upon a simple and light rectangular frame which is strengthened at the corners by iron "carriage- corners." These cloth-covered frames are handy for many purposes, particularly for protecting and supplying some warmth to seed-pans and young seedlings. It is essential that good drainage be given all indoor seed-pots or seed-beds. A layer of broken pots or other coarse material is placed on the bottom. IMany growers place a thin layer of fine dead sphagnum moss or of peat over this drainage material, and it is useful in preventing the too rapid drying out of the bottom of the pots. It is particu- larly useful in isolated pots or small bo.xes. Over the moss, coarse siftings from the soil may be placed, while on top only the finest and best soil should be used. The smaller the seeds, the more care must be exercised in the sowing. The proper depth for sowing varies directly with the size of the seed. The chief advantage of very fine soil for small seeds is the greater exactness of depth of covering which it allows. Very small seeds sliould be sown upon the surface. c SEEDAGE. which has previously been well firmed and leveled, and then covered with a very thin layer of finely silted soil or a little old and dead moss rubbed through a sieve. This covering should be scarcely deeper than the thickness of the seeds ; that is. the seeds should be barely covered. Many prefer pressing the seeds into the soil with a block. Or if one has a close propagating-box, the seeds may remain upon the surface and sufficient moisture will be supplied from the atmosphere. Such fine seeds are rarely watered directly, as even the most careful treatment would be likely to dislodge them. The soil is usually well watered before the seeds are sown, or moisture may be supplied by inserting the pot in water nearly to its rim for a few minutes. If water is applied fri_im a rose, a thin cloth should first be S|iread on tlie soil to hold it. Celery seeds, in outdoor beds, are often sown upon a smoothly prejiared surface and are then pressed in by means of the feet or a board. Some cover to prevent evapo- ration should be gi\-en all small seeds. This may be a board or a slate slab at first, but as soon as the |ilants appear glass should be substituted to admit light. I .See pp. 3 to 7. ) Large seeds demand much less care as to deptli of cover- ing, as a rule. One-fourth or one-half inch is a good depth for most coarse seeds indoors. If one wishes to gauge the depth accurately, the drills maybe made by a planting stick, like that shown in Fig. 16, Its Hange is made of the required thickness, and it is jiressed into the soil until the cap strikes the surface. This is a useful implement in seed-testing. Another device for regulating the depth of sowing, par- ticularly in seed-testing, is the Tracy planter, shown in ~ Fig. 17 It consists of tuo strips of hea\y tin plate about three inches wide, hung upon two wire pivots or hinges some two inches At their up|)er etlges. and equidistant fri^aii eitlier the plates are joined by a firm spiral spruig. 16. Planting Uick. Ions end DAMPING-OFF. 83 which serves to throw the upper edges apart, and to cause the lower edges to join. The trough is now filled with the required number of seeds, and is then inserted into the earth to a given depth, when the fingers push inward on the spring and the trough opens and delivers the seeds. Delicate seeds, which are sown out of doors, should be given a very accessible location, because they will need constant watching in dry weather and during heavy rains. ly. Tracy seed-planter, A border along a wall is a favorite site for a seed bed. A French method of preparing such a bed is shown in Fig. iS (after Mottet). Damping-Off. — The gardener must always be on the lookout fur the rotting-ofF of seedlings. This damping ofi" is a common ailment of young seedlings and cuttings. The stem becomes brown and constricted at or near the surface of the soil, and it soon rots and falls over. The top of the plant often remains alive and fresh for several days after it has fallen. Various fungi are concerned in this disorder, and these have recently been discussed by Atkinson (Bulletin 94, Cornell Experiment Station). The conditions which seem to particularly favor the develop- ment of these fungi are a moist and close atmosphere, crowding, and careless watering. Plants are particularly liable to damp-off if only sufficient water is applied to keep the surface moist while the under soil remains dry. Hot sand, sifted over the plants, will check it, but there is no complete remedy. As soon as the trouble appears, give more air and prick out the plants. 24 Spores. — Ferns, lycopodiums and selaginellas are often grown from spores. Tlie general conditions adapted to the germination of seeds are also suitable foi the germination tf spores,, but extra y' care must be taken JggjL with the drainage. ^_I1:^ F^ It a pot is used, it '^f^^'^^^B^ should be half or more filled with ^ drainage material, and the soil should ^^ be rendered loose '~L b\ the addition of bits of brick, char- ^ coal, cinders, or - other porous ma- - tcrials. The sur- ^^ face soil should be hne and uniform. Some place a thin layer of brick dust upon the surface, in which the spores are sown. It is a frequent practice to bake the soil to destroy other spores which might cause troublesome growths The spores should be sprinkled upon the surface and sliould not be covered. The pot sliould be set in a saucer ot water, or in damp moss, and it should be covered by paper or a pane of glass if the sun strikes it. Better results are oljtaintd if tlie pot or pau is placed inside a propagating-frame or under a bell-glass. In place of earth, a block or small cubes of firm peat or sandstone may be employed. Tlie block is placed in a saucer ot water and the spores are sown upon its surface. Water should not be applied directly to the spores, as it is apt to dislodge tliem. The period of germination varies in different species, but three to six weeks may be considered the ordinary limits. iS. Seed-border. THE SOWING OF SPORES. 25 While still very small, the plantlets should be pricked out, and for some time thereafter they should be suljjected to the same conditions as before. Spores are so exceedingly small and light that the greatest care must be exercised in growing them. In order to gather them, the fronds may be cut as soon as the sori or fruit-dots turn brown, and stored in close boxes or paper bags. When the spores begin to discharge freely, the frond may be shaken over the pot, or it may be broken up and pieces of it laid on the soil. Note, — For tables of weights and longevities of seeds and quanti" ties requirea for given areas, consult The Horticulturist's Rule-Book. CHAPTER 11. SEPARATION AND DIVISION. I. SEP.^RATION. Separation, or the multiplication of plants by means of naturally detachable vegetative organs, is effected by means of bulbs, bulbels, bulb-scales, bulblets, corms, tubers, and sometimes by buds. Bulbs of all kinds are specialized buds. They are made vip of a short and rudimentary a.xis closely encased in trans- formed and thickened leaves or bulb-scales. These thick- ened parts are stored with nutriment which is used durmg subsequent growth. Bulbs occur only in plants which are accustomed to a long period of inactivity. Many bulbous plants are peculiar to dry and arid regions, where growth is impossible during long intervals. A bulb is, therefore, a more or less permanent and compact leaf-bud, usually occu- pying the base of the stem under ground and emitting roots from its lower portion. Bulbs are conveni- ently divided into two great classes — the scaly, or those composed of narrow and mostly loose scales, as in the lily, and laminate or tunicate, or those composed of more or less continuous and cluse-fitting layers or plates, as in the onion. Bulbs often break up or divide themselves into two or (26) ig. Bulb of Lilium can- didum [yLYi). PROPAGATION BY BULBELS. 27 more nearly equal portions, as in Liliuin candidum, shown one-tliird natural size in Fig. 19. The parts maybe separated and treated as complete bulbs for purposes of propagation. This division or separation of bulbs proceeds in a different manner in nearly every species, yet it is so obvious that the novice need not be perplexed by it. Almost any breaking apart of these loose bulbs, if only a "heart " or central a.xis remains in each portion, is successful for purposes of slow multiplication ; but' when flowers are desired it is usually advisable to keep the bulbs as strong and compact as pos- sible. Bulbous plants multiply most easily by means of bulbels — often also called bulbules and offsets — or small bulbs which are borne about a large or mother bulb. In some lilies, as Liluini cmididiini, the bulbels form at the top or crown of the mother bulb, and a circle of roots will be found between them and the bulb ; in others, as L. speciosinn and L. auratuni, they form on the lower part of the flower stalk- In some species the bulbels are few and very large, or even single, and they bloom the fullowing year. In such cases the bulb undergoes a progressive movement from year to vear after the manner of rootstocks, the bulb of one year bearing a more or less distinct one above and beyond it, which con- tinues the species, while the old one becomes weak or dies. This method of bulb formation is seen in the cut of Lilium pardalimnn, Fig. 20, In the hyacinth the bul- bels form at the base of the bulb. Bulbels vary greatly in size and frequency in different species. Sometimes they are no larger than a grain of wheat the first year, and in other plants they are as large as hickory-nuts. In some species they are borne habitually underneath the scales of the mother bulb. These bulbels are often removed when 20. Bulb of Lilium parda- hnttni (x^;^). SEPARATION AND DIVISION. Cut hvaa'iiih bulb (xH) the mother bulbs are taken up, and they are usually planted in essentially the same manner as the bulbs themselves, although it is desirable to place them, at least for the first year, in a bed or border where they may receive careful attention. Or, if they are especially small and delicate, they may be planted in pots or fiats and be treated about the same as single-eye cuttings. In some lilies, the bulbels are allowed to remain attached, and the whole mass is planted in the fall in close drills. Sometimes the larger lily bulbels may produce flowers the fol- lowing (or first) season, but they usu- ally require the whole of the second season in which to complete their growth. The second fall they are ready to be permanently planted. Bulbels of some plants require even a longer time in which to mature into bulbs. Bulbels are often produced by an injury to the bulb. Growth of stem and leaves is more or less checked and the energy is directed to the formation of minute buds, or bulbs, in the same manner as adventitious buds form upon a wounded stem. Ad- vantage is taken of this fact to multiply some bulbous plants, and in the case of the hyacinths, at least, the mutilation of bulbs for this purpose is practiced to a com- mercial extent. Hyacinth bulbs are cut in two, or are slashed in various «'ays. The favorite method is to make two or three deep transverse cuts into the base of the bulb (Fig. 21). The strongest bulbs should be chosen, and the operation is performed in spring or early summer, when the bulb is taken up. The bulbs are some- 22. Hollowed hyacinth bulb (x%). ADVENTITIOUS BUI.HELS. 29 times hollowed out from the under side for half or more of their depth. This operation is sometimes performed later in the season than the other, and precaution shf)uld be exercised that the bulbs do not become too moist, else they will rot. Hollowed bulbs should be well dried before being planted. Hoth methods of preparing hyacinth bulbs are shown in Figs. 21 and 22, which are adapted from the Gardener's Chronicle. Fig. 23 shows a portion of the base of a cross-cut bulb, with the adventitious bulbels. The mutilated bulbs are stored during summer, and are planted in fall or spring. The wounded bulbs produce very little foliage, but at the end of the first season the bulbels will have formed. The bulbels are tlien separated and planted by themselves in prepared beds. Several years are required for tlie bulbels to mature into flowering bulbs. Some of the strongest ones may produce flowering bulbs in three years, but some of them, especially those obtained from the hollowed bulbs, will not mature short of six years. This method of propagating hyacinths is confined almost entirely to Holland. The scales of bulbs are often employed to multiply scarce varieties. From ten to thirty of the thicker scales may be removed from the outside of the bulb without seri- ous injury to it. These are treated in the same manner as single-eye cuttings. They are usually han- dled in flats or propagating- frames, and are pressed perpendicularly into a li,ght and loose soil — half sharp sand and half leaf mold — for nearly or quite their entire length, or they may be scattered in damp moss. Keep the soil sim- ply moist, and for hardy and half-hardy species keep the temperature rather low — from 45° to „ .. 60°. Slight bottom heat may sometimes be 14. Bulb " , . , , scale (xi). given to advantage. In irom three to ten weeks 2j Cross-cut bulb so SEPARATION AND DIVISION. a little bulbel, or sometimes two or more, will appear at the base of the scale, as shown in Fig. 24. Late autumn or early winter is a proper time for this operation. These pots or flats may be plung^ed outdoors during summer if the planting was done in winter, or the scales may be potted off or transferred to the open border as soon as rootlets have formed. It is the common practice with most hardy species to allow the scales to remain in the original flats during summer and to cover them the next fall, allowing them to remain outdoors over winter. The succeeding spring they are shifted into a bed or border, and by the next fall— having had two suinmers' growth — most species will be ready for permanent planting in the flower border. A biilblct is a small bulb borne entirely above ground, usually in the axil of a leaf or in the inflorescence. Familiar examples oc- cur in the tiger lily and in " top " onions. In the former instance, the bulblets are direct transformations of buds, while in the onion they are trans- formed flowers. It is impossible to draw any sharp line nf separation between bulblets and buds. In some plants, certain buds detach themselves and fall to the ground to multiplv the species. Sometimes these buds vegetate before tliev fall from the plants, as in the case (.if various liegonias and ferns. Fnr purposes of propagation, bulblets are treated in the same Gladiolus coi-m (x!^). CORMS AND CORMELS. 3 1 way as bulbels, and like them, they reproduce the variety upon which they grow. They will develop into full- grown bulbs in from one to three years, according to the species. A corm is a bulb-like organ which is solid throughout. Familiar e.xamples occur in the gladiolus and crocus. Cor-, moiis plants are inultiplied in essentially the same manner as bulbous species. As a rule, a new corm (or sometimes two or more) is produced each year above the old one, and this commonly bears flowers the following season. This renewal is well shown in the gladiolus, Fig. 25. The illus- tration shows a gladiolus bottom, half size, when taken up in November. At the base are seen the withered remains of the corm which was planted in the spring, and above it the new corm, which will furni.sh bloom the followihg sea- son. A number of cornieh or "spawn" have also ap- peared about the base of the new corm. These may be planted out in a Vjorder or bed, and will produce mature bulbs in one or two seasons. The larger ones, under good treatment, will often produce bulbs an inch in diam- eter the first season. Some growers keep the cormels a year and a half before planting them out (that is, until the second spring), as they are thought to vegetate more evenly under such treatment ; in this case they should be placed in sand to prevent too great drying out. Adventitious cormels may be produced by various methods of wounding the mother corm, and this practice of e.xciting them is often necessary, as some varieties do not produce cormels freely. Each bud on the top or side of the corm may be made to produce a separate corm by cutting a deep ring around it, so as to partly divide it. Or the corm may be directly cut into as many separate pieces as there are buds or eyes, after the manner of cutting pota- toes, but these pieces are usually handled in flats, where temperature and moisture can be controlled. Almost any injury to such vigorous corms as those of the gladiolus and crocus will result in the production of coimels. if care is 32 SEPARATION AND DIVISION. taken that tlie corms do not become so cold and wet as to cause them to rot. 2. DIVISION. The word division is commonly applied to that phase of separati(jn in which the parts are cut or broken into pieces, in distinction to propagation by means of parts which naturally separate at the close of the season ; but no hard and fast line can be drawn between the two operations. Whilst separation is mostly concerned with bulb-like and corm-like organs, division operates mostly upon tubers and rootstocks. A fiiher is a prominently thickened portion of a root or stem, and it is usually subterranean. The potato, sweet potato and dahlia furnish good examples. Tnberiferous plants are multiplied by planting these tubers whole, or in many cases the tubers may be cut into small portions, as described in Chapter I\^, in the descriptions of cuttings. In hardv species, the tubers may be allowed to remain in the ground during winter, but they are generally dug in the fall and stored in a dr>' and cold place, but where they win not freeze. An offset is a crown or rosette of leaves, usually borne ne.xt the surface of the ground, and which in time detaches itself and forms an independent plant. The best examples occur in the house-leeks, plants which are more familiarly known as "hen and chickens" and "man and wife." These oft'sets take root readily, and in propagating there is no other care necessary than to remo\'e and plant them. A croiuii is a detachable portion of a rootstock bearing roots and a prominent l.)ud. Rhizomes or rootstocks mul- tiply individuals and extend the distribution of the species by means of a progressive movement of the crowns. The rootstock grows during summer, and at the end of the sea- son each branch develops a strong terminal bud, which usually produces a flowering stem the following season. The rootstock gradually dies away at its old extremity, 33 and ill a few years a single individual gives rise to a con- siderable patch. This is well shown in the common May- apple or podophyllum. In some species these crowns are removed in the autumn, and are planted and handled in much the same manner as bulbs. The crown or "pip" (if the lily-of- the valley, shown in Fig. 26, is obtained in this manner. Rootstocks may be divided into as many parts as there are eyes or buds, and each part is then treated as an independent plant. Familiar examples of such division are the common practices of multiplying rhubarb and canna. A canna rootstock, or "stool," is seen in Fig. 27. The obser\'er is looking down upon the top of the stool ; and the five pieces show how the operator has divided it. The two lower pieces on the left show the remains of the flower-stalks of the previous year. If the variety were very scarce, some of these pieces could be again divided into two or three. All perennial herbs may be multiplied with more or less readiness by means of simply dividing the crowns. Most bushes may be similarly treated, as lilacs, many roses, spireas, and the like. The general stock species of herba- ceous border plants — as aquilegias, hemerocallis, funkias, and the like — are generally grown in permanent small areas by nurserymen, and plants are cut out of the plot as orders are received. If, however, the nurseryman is making a special "run" on any plant, he gets his stock 26. LUy-of-ihe-valley crown (xj<). 34 SEPARATION AND DIVISION. by dividins; up the crowns or rootstocks into small por- tions, and then growing these for a season in specially prepared beds, or sometimes in pots. \\ .V Ca,„in slool. dividrd inio five plants (x l-cl. CHAPTER III. LAYERAGE. Many plants habitually propagate by means of decum- bent snoots and runners. These shoots become more or less covered with earth or leaves, and roots are emitted, usually at the joints. In many cases, the old shoots die away and an entirely independent plant arises from each mass of roots. In other plants, the shoots remain attached to the parent, at least for a number of years, so that the plant comprises a colony of essentially independent but connected individuals. Great numbers of plants which do not propagate naturally by means of layers are readily increased by this means under the direction of the culti- vator. In most cases it is only necessar}' to lay down the branches, cover them with earth, and allow them to remain until roots are well formed, when the parts can be severed from the parent. Layering is one of the simplest and commonest methods of propagation, as the mother-plant nurses the layer-plants until they can sustain themselves. It is a ready means of multiplying hard-wooded plants, which do not grow well from cuttings. All vines, and all plants which have runners or long and slender shoots which fall to the ground, may be multiplied readily by layerage. Among fruits, the black-cap raspberry and dewberry are familiar e.xamples. The raspberry canes of the current year bend over late in summer and the tips strike the earth. If the tip is seciir.;d by a slight covering of earth, or if it fmds lodgment in a mellow soil, roots are emitted, and in the fall a strong bud or "crown " or " eye " (35) 36 LAYERACE. is formed for next year's growth. The parent cane is sev- ered in the fall or spring, some 4 or 6 inches above the ground, and an independent plant, known as a "root-tip," as shown in Fig. 28, is ob- tained. In this instance, as in most others, it is im- material at what point the parent stem is severed, ex- cept that a short portion of it serves as a handle in carrying the plant, and also marks the position of the plant when it is set. The black raspberry propagates itself naturally by means of these layers, and it is only necessary, in most cases, to bring the soil into a mellow condition when the tips begin to touch the ground, in order that they may find anchorage. This layering by inserting the growing point has the advantage of producing very strong " crowns " or plants in autumn from shoots or canes of the same year, and it should be more generally practiced. Even currants, gooseberries and many other plants can be handled in this way. In most cases of layerage, it is necessary to bend down the branches and to cover them. The covering may be 28. Raspberry tip (.-i 1-5). ^^Sa2«5,«acg^, ^•v^r -'9- Covered layer of vtbmnum (x 1-6). continuous, as in Fig. 29, or it may be applied only to the joints or restricted portions of the shoot, as illustrated in Fig. 30. In either case the covering should be shallow, not exceeding 2 to 5 inches. If the shoot is stiff, a stone or sod SERPENTINE LAYERINC5. 37 may be placed upon it to hold it down ; or a crotched stick may be thrust down over it, as in the "pegging down" of propagators. The strongest plants are usually obtained by securing only one plant from each shoot, and for this purpose the earth should be applied only at one point, preferably over a bud somewhere near the middle of the shoot. If the buds are close together, all but the strongest one may be cut out. so. Layered shoots. If more plants are desired, however, serpentine layering may be practiced, as shown at A in Fig. 30. The shoot is bent in an undulating fashion, and from every covered por- tion roots will form and a plant may be obtained The continuously covered layer also possesses the advantage of giving more than one plant, but the roots are apt to form so continuously that definite and strong plants are rarely ob- tained ; these rooted portions may be severed and treated as cuttings, however, with good results. The grape is sometimes propagated by serpentine layering. Stiff and hard-wooded plants do not often "strike" or 38 LAYERAGE. root readily, and in order to facilitate rooting, the branch is wounded at the point where it is desired that roots shall form. This wounding serves to induce formation of adven- jV. Cdfualiun tavcr (.\',-?j. titiout" buds at that jioint. and to check the growth of the branch at the tip. It is a common practice to cut the branch about half in two obliqueh', on the lower side. This ope- ration is known as " tongueing." "Ringing" i.ir girdling, twisting, notching, and various other methods are employed, none of which, perhaps, possess any peculiar ad\-antages in general practice. Some propa.gators cut all the buds from the covered portion. In this case the Iree and protruding end of the layer is expected to form the top of the new plant. " Arching," or very abrupt bending, as in serpentine layering, ser\-es the same purpose and is the only attention necessary in most \ines A " tongued " carnation layer is shown in Fig. 31. The layered stem is at S, and the root is seen to have lormed from the tongue. This method of propagating carnations is common in Europe, but the plant is ahvavs grown from cuttings in America. MOUND-LAYERING. 39 When large numbers of plants are desired, aS in commer- cial nurseries, it is often ^■^vif^' j2. Alound-layerin^ of gooseberry. necessary to cut back the parent plant to the ground, or very nearly so, for the purpose of securing many shoots fit for layering. A plant which is cut back in the spring will produce shoots fit for layering the following spring ; or some species will produce them in abundance the same year if layers of green or immature wood are desired. These pa- rent or stock plants are called "stools " by nurserymen. In many species, layerage is performed to best advantage by heaping earth over the stool and around the shoots. This is known as mound ox slool- layering. The shoots send out roots near the base, and straight, stocky plants are obtained. The English gooseberries are almost exclusively pfopagated in this' manner in this country. Fig. 32 shows a row of mound-layered gooseber- ries. The shoots are allowed to remain in layerage two years, in the case of English gooseberries, if the best plants are wanted, but in many species the operation is completed in a single season. Quinces and Paradise apple stocks are e.xtensively mound -layered The practice is most useful in those low plants which produce short and rather stifl shoots. Sometimes these layers are severed at the end of the first season, and the plants are grown in the nursery row for a year before they are placed upon the market. As a rule, the best season for making layers is in spring. Rooting progresses rapidly at that season. Many plants "bleed," if layered very early in the season. Mardy 33. Ll ycniii, pot 40 LAYERAGE. shrubs may be layered in the fall, either early or late, and if an incision is made, a callus will have formed by spring. If rapid multiplication is desired, the soft and growing shoots may be layered during the summer. This opera- tion is variously known as "summer," "her- baceous," "green" and "soft" layering. Comparatively feeble plants usually result from this practice, and it is not in common favor. In glass houses, shoots are sometimes earth ; and the same ■^^-^ J4. Pot-layerage, in pots instead of in the done with strawberries in layered is often tlie field, giving the " pot-grown plants" of the nursery- men. The French have "layering-pots," with a slot in the side (Fig. 33) for the insertion of the shoot. In one style of pot, the slot extends from the rim down the entire length of the side and half-way across the bottom ( Fig. 36. ) Pot-layering, circumposition, air-layering and Chinese layering are terms applied to the rooting of rigid stems by means of surrounding them, while in their natural position, with earth or moss, or similar material. The stem is wounded — commonly girdled — and a divided pot or box is placed about it and filled with earth (Fig. 34). The roots start from above the girdle, and when they have filled the pot the stem is severed, headed back, and planted. Pot-lay- ering is practiced almost exclusively in greenhouses, where it is possible to keep the earth uniformly moist. But even there it is advisable to wrap the pot in moss to check AIR-LAYERING. 41 j'(5. Layering-pot. evaporation from the soil. Some plants, like Ficus elas- tica, can be readily rooted by wrapping them with moss alone, if the atmos- phere is sufficiently close. A paper cone may be used in place of a pot where the atmos- phere is not too humid, as in carnation houses (Fig. 35). Pot-layering is employed not only for the purpose of multiply- ing plants, but in order to lower the heads of "leggy" or scraggly speci- mens. The pot is inserted at the required point upon the main stem, and after roots have formed abundantly the top may be cut off and potted inde- pendently, the old stump being dis- carded. have various handy devices for facil- itating pot-layer- ing. Fig. 36 shows a layering-pot, provided with a niche in the side to receive the stem, and a flange behind for securing it to a support. The pot shown in Fig. 33 is a similar de- vice. Fig. 37 represents a layering- cone. It is made of zinc or other 55. Air-laydr- ing in a paper cone (xH). The French 38. Layerine^-ciip. Sy. Layering-cone. 3(). Layering- cup. which are hintjed metal, usually 4 or 5 inches high, and is composed of two semi-conical wings on the back and are secured in front, when the instrument is closed, by means of a hinge-pin. A cord is inserted in 42 LAYERAGE. 40. Conipott)ld lay€ring-pot. one side, u'ith which to hans it un a support. A cup or pot with a removable side is also used. This is shown open in Fig. 38 and closed in Fig. 39. An ingenious comjiound layering-pot is shown in Fig. 40. The main stem or trunk of tlie plant is carried through the large opening, and the branches are taken through the smaller pots at the side. Rier's lavering-boxes / ^. or racks are shown in Figs. 41 and 42. The trays are filled with earth or moss, and the branches are laid in through the chinks in the border and are treated in the same manner as ordinary outdoor layers. These racks supply a neat and convenient means of increasing greenhouse plants which do not readily strike fnim cuttings. It is well to bear in mind that when layers do not give strong plants, they can be divided into portions, each bearing a bit 'jf root, and treated as ordinary cut;ings. This is an im- portant operation in the case of rare varieties uiiich are multiplied by means of soft or green layers, as some of the large-tlowered clematises and new varieties of grapes. The small, weak plants are handled in a cool greenhouse or under frames, usually in pots, and they soon make strong specimens. From what has now been said of layerage, the reader will perceive that it may be employed either for the out- right production of new plants, or as a means of starting or "striking" plants. In the latter case, the layer plants, after ha\ ing been separated fremi the parent plant, are set in nursery rows and there grow n for one season ; and in falMMil 41. A'ier's Jayering-rack LAYERiNG-RACkS. 43 this way stronger and more shapely plants may be ob- tained. As a general statement, it may be said that all bush-like or vine-like plants which do not strike readily from cuttings, nor produce seeds freely, or of which the seeds are very slow to germinate, are usually multiplied by layerage. 42, Kier^s circular layerin^-rack. CHAPTER IV. CUTTAGE. I. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS OF CUTTINGS. Cuttings, particularly of growing parts, demand a moist and uniform atmosphere, a porous soil, and some- times bottom heat. Devices for Regulating Moisture and Heat. — In order to secure a uniform and moist atmosphere, various propagat- ing-fraraes are in common use Whatever its construction, the frame should be sufficiently tight to confine the air closely ; it should admit light, and allow of ventilation. The simplest form of propagating-frame is a pot or box covered with a pane of glass (Fig. 2). To admit of venti- lation, the glass is tilted at intervals, or two panes may be used and a space be allowed to remain between them. A common bell-glass or bell-jar (cloche of the French) makes one of the best and handiest propagating- frames, because it admits light upon all sides and is con\'e- nient to handle. It is particularly service- able in the propa- gation of tropical or "stove" plants; and it is in universal use 4i Hand-i^lass. for all difficult and rare subjects which are not propagated in large numbers. A hand-glass or hand-light (Fig. 44) (44) PROPAGATING- FRAMES. 45 J5 Srttail propa^aimg'box. answers the same purpose and accommodates a larger number of plants. A useful propagating-box for the win- dow garden or amateur conservatory is shown in Fig. 45. A bo.x 2 or 3 inches high is secured, and inside this a zinc or galvanized iron tray is set, leaving sufficient space between it and the box to admit a pane of glass upon every side. These panes form the four sides of the box, and one or two panes are laid across the top. The metal tray holds the soil and allows no water to drip upon the floor. One of the best boxes for general purposes is made in the form of a simple board box without top or bottom, and 15 or iS inches high, the top being covered with two sashes, one of which raises upon a hinge (Fig. 46). Four by three feet is a convenient size. An ordinary light hot- bed frame is sometimes constructed upon the bench of a greenhouse and covered with common hotbed sash. Prop- agating-houses are sometimes built with permanent propa- gating-frames of this character throughout their length, as shown in Fig. 47. Such permanent frames are mostly used for conifers, either from cuttings or grafts (usually the latter) and also for grafts of rhododen- drons(See Chapters V.and VI. ). In all the above appliances heat is obtained from the sun or from the bench-pipes or flues of a greenhouse. There are vari- ous contrivances in which the heat is applied locally, for the purpose of securing greater or more uniform heat. One of the simplest and best of these is the propagating-oven shown in Fig. 48. It is a glass- ed. Propagating box 46 CutTagE. 47- Permanent propagating-frauus in a gycenhousc. covered box about two feet deep, with -.v neath the soil, and whicli is heated l>v a but somewhat comphcated apparatus is il 49, 50. 51. Tliis is an old form of o\en variously modified by different operators SAND' J5s:^S--i^--W A T; E R ^=qj;=;:^:jj; 4S. SiDiple propagatinff-oi'r'n. are sown or pots are plung-ed. C is which the water is applied by means of a tray of water be- lamp. A similar lustrated in Fiys. which has been Fig-. 49 shows a Sectional view ot the complete apparatus. The box, A A, ■ is made of \\-ood, and is usually about three feet square. L is a removable glass top. P. re]ire- sents a zinc or gaKanized iron tray which is filled with earth, in which seeds a water tray, to funnel extending Propagating- FRAMES. 47 {lan^alli^aar^gift through the box. A lamp, D, supplies the heat, funnel of tin, e e, distrib- utes tlie heat evenly. Holes should be ]>rovided about the bottom of the box to admit air to the ll.uiie. A modified form of this device is shown in Figs. 50 and 51. The water tray, G, slides in upon ledges, so that it can be removed, and the heat funnel, L D L, slides in similarly and is made to surround the tiame liice a chimnev A ■ \^'i7WDvv\7T7UW\3\| 49, Propagating-oven, The front side of the apparatus is remova- ble, and the top of the frame, K, is made of metal. The cover for this apparatus is shown in i Fig. 51. The ends,(7(?, are made of wood, with openings, indicated by the arrows, to allow of 50. Modified form of Fig. 49. ventilation. The front and top, .ciTi are made of glass. The frame-work, f r r. The cover is hinged on, or held with pegs, I I, Fig. 50. Chauviere' s pr o p a g a t i n g- oven, a French apparatus, is shown in Fig. 52. It is essen- tially a minia- ture greenhouse. The sashes are seen at c r, and over them is a cloth or matting screen (shown at the right). is made of metal. 51. Cover for Fig. 50. 48 CUTTAGE. The sides below the sashes are enclosed, preferably with glass. The bottom or floor is movable, and it is some- $2. Chauviire^ s propagating oven. times divided into two or three sections, to allow of the accommodation of plants of different sizes and require- SJ. Lecoq's firopagating-oi nients. These sections are raised or lowered, and are licld by pegs. At the right is shown a section of floor elevated, and at the lel"t another section occupying a lower position. Meat is supplied usually by hot water in the tubes, d d. A very elaborate circular French device, known as Lecoq's PROPAGATING DEVICES. 49 propagating-oven, is illustrated in Fig. 53. It is an interest- ing apparatus, and is worth attention as showing the care which has been taken to control the conditions of vegetation and germination. It is too elaborate for common purposes, and yet for the growing of certain rare or difficult subjects it might find favor among those who like to experiment ; and it affords an accurate means of studying plant growth under control. The apparatus is sold in France for about $6. All the portion below the glass top, f, P, is made of earthenware. The base, a a, holds a lamp, d ; r is a water reservoir, to which water is supplied by means of the fun- nel, j. A vase or rim, b b, rests upon the base, and ujion it a plate or disc, r c, is fitted. Above this is the gla.,s top, PP. Air is admitted to the apparatus at i, K K, and between the vase and plate, as at c on the right. The plate con- tains two concentric circular grooves, g g and // h. In these grooves the soil is placed or pots plunged. The heat circulates in the valleys m and nnnn, and supplies a uni- form temperature to both sides of the plants. Barnard's propagating-tank. Fig. 54, is a practicable de- vice for attachment to a common stove. A similar appa- ratus may be attached to the pipes of a greenhouse. The tank consists of a long wooden box made of matched boards, and put together with paint between the joints to make it water-tight. The box should be about 3 feet wide and 10 inches deep, and may be from 10 to 30 feet long, ac- cording to the space required. In the middle of the box is a partition, extending nearly the whole length, and on the inside, on each side, is a ledge or piece of moulding to support slate slabs to be laid over the entire surface of the box. The slates are supported by the ledges and by the central partition, and should be fastened down with cement to prevent the propagating-sand from falling into the tank. One slate is left out near the end, next the fire, to enable the operator to see the water and to keep it at the right level. On the slates sand is spread, in which the cuttings may be struck, the sand nearly filling the box. At one end of the 50 CUTTAGE. box is placed a common cylinder stove, with smoke-pipe to the chimney. Inside the stove is an iron pipe, bent in a spiral. This coil, which is directly in the fire, is connected by ^4. BarnariT s propagatutg'tatik . pipes with the tank, one pipe leading to one side of the partition and the other to the opposite side, as shown in the drawing. If water is placed in the tank, it will fill the pipes and form a continuous circulating system through the pipes and up one side of the bo.\ ]iast the end of the partition, and down the other side. A fire in the sto\'e causes the \^■ater to circulate through the tank and impart to the bed a genial ■.varnith. There are various tanks designed to rest upon the pipes in a greenhouse. The principle of their construction is essentially the same as of those described in previous pages, — bottom heat, a tray of water, and a bed of soil. Earthen-..- ware tanks are commonly employed, but a recent English device. Fig. 55, is made of zinc. It is about 7 inches deep, and holds an inch or two of water in the bLittom. A trav 5 inches deep sets into the tank. The water is supf)lied through a tunnel at the base. Cuttmgs usually "strike" better when they touch the side of the pot than when they are wholly surrounded by soil. This is probably because the earthenware insures greater uniformity in drainage than the earth, and supplies air and a mild bottom heat ; and it is possible that the deflection of the plant food towards the side of the pot, because of evaporation therefrom, induces better growth PROPAGATING DEVICES. 5' 'gatwg-l at that point. Various device.s are employed for the ]nir- pose of securing these advantages to the best effect. These are usually double pots, in one of which water IS placed. A ^ood method is that rep- resented in Figure 56, which shows a pot, /;, plugged with plaster of I'ans at the bottom, placed inside a larger one. The earth is placed between the two, drainage material occu- pying the bottom, a, and fine soil the top. c. Water stands in the inner pot of ^hi^'^WK'-SjiJ' ...t..,i i:„ 1 r-., ,]., ^Ui J . 1/ ' li-JL/A- as high as the dotted line, and feeds unilormly into the surrounding soil. The positions of the water and soil are frequently reversed, but in that case there is less space available fo,- cuttings. A double pot, with moisture supplied in a surrounding cushion of , . ' . _. 5^. Forsyth's ciUting- sphagnum moss, is seen m Fig. i. ' ,^^ Neumann's cutting-p(jt is shown in Fig. 57. This contains an inverted pot in the center, ir, designed to supply drainage and to admit heat into the center of the mass of soil. A good method of striking difficult subjects is as follows : Fill a saucer with moss. Upon this place an inverted flower-pot. Insert the 57. Nemnann'^s cutting- ^^,jfjj^g, through the hole in the bot- 52 CUTTAGE. torn of the pot, so that it stands in the moss and almost touches the saucer. Keep the moss moist. Some kind of protection, commonly combined with bot- tom heat, is always given cuttings made from the soft and growing parts. In indoor work, any of the devices named above may be employed, but a box like that shown in Fig. 46 is one of the most useful for common operations. Or jtir. Cuttini^'b':nch shaded with lath. the greenhouse itself may afford sufficient protection, espe- cially if the cuttings are shaded when first set, to check evaporation from the plant and soil, and to prevent too great heat. This shading is usually supplied by whitewash- ing the glass, or a newspaper may be laid over the cut- tiag-bed for a few days. A greenhouse table or bench prepared for the growing of cuttings is known as a "cut- ting-bench." If the cuttings become too dry or too hot, BOTTOM HEAT FOR CUTTINGS. 53 they will wilt or "flag." A good cutting-bench should be near the glass, and either exposed to the north or else capable of being well shaded. A good bench, facing south and shaded over the glass witli a lath screen, is illustrated in Fig. 58. Tlie details of soils are discussed on the following page. In outdoor work, soft cuttings are usually placed in an ordinary coldfranie, and these frames must be shatled. They may be placed under trees or on the shady side of a building, or if they are numerous, as in commercial estab- lishments, a clcjth screen should be provided, as shown in Fig. 7, page 6. Bottom Heat is always essential to the best success with cuttings. In outdoor work, this is supplied by the natural heat of the soil in spring and summer, and it is often inten- sified by burying hard-wooded cuttings bottom end up for a time before planting them. This operation of in\erting cuttings is often practiced with grapes, particularly with the Delaware and others which root with some difficulty. The cuttings are tied in bundles and buried in a sandy place, with the t(jps down, the butts being covered two or three inches with sand. They may be put in this position in the fall and allowed to remain until the ground begins to freeze hard, or they may be buried in spring and allowed to remain until May or June and then be regularly planted. In out- door cuttage, the cuttings which are of medium length, from 6 to 8 inches, derive more bottom heat than the very long ones, such as were formerly used for the propagation of the grape. In indoor work, bottcjm heat is obtained by means of fermenting manure, or, preferably, by greenhouse pipes. Cutting-benches should have abundant piping be- neath, and in the case of many tropical and sub-tropical species the bottom heat may he intensified by enclosing the benches below, so that no heat can escape into the walks. Doors can be ]:)laced in the partition alongside the walk, to serve as ventilators if the he.at should become 54 CUTTAGE. too intense. In all cuttings, bottom or root growth should precede top growth, and this is aided by bottom heat. Soils. — Soil for all cuttings should be well drained. It should not be so compact as to hold a great quantity of water, nor should it be so loose as to dry out very quickly. It should not " bake " or form a crust on its surface. As a rule, especially for cuttings made of growing parts, the soil should not contain fresh vegetable matter, as such material holds too much water and is often directly injurious to the cutting, and it is likely to breed the fungi of damping-off. A coarse, sharp, clean sand is the best material for use indoors. Very fine sand packs too hard, and should rarely be used. Some propagators prefer to use hue gravel, com- posed of particles from an eighth to a fourth of an inch in diameter, and from which all fine material has been washed. This answers well for green cuttings ; but a propagating- frame should be used to check evaporation, and attention be given to watering, because drainage is so perfect and the material so quickly permeable that uniformity of treat- ment is thereby secured. Damping-off is less liable to occur in such material than in denser soils. The same advantages are to some extent present in sphagnum moss and cocoanut fiber, bi.ith of which are sometimes used in place of earth. The " silver sand " used by florists is a very clean and white sand, which derives its particular ad\'antages from the almost entire absence of any vegetable matter. But it is not now considered so essential to successful propagation as it was formerly, and fully as good material may often be found in a common sand-bank. Cuttings which strike strongly and vigorously may be placed in a soil made of light garden loam with twice its bulk of sand added to it. All soils used for indoor cuttage should be sifted or screened before using, to bring them to a uniform texture. Hard-wood cuttings are commonly planted outdoors in mellow and liglit garden loam, well trenched. Only fine and well-rotted manure should be applied to the cutting- FORMATION OF ROOTS ON CUTTINGS. 55 bed, and it should be well mixed with the soil. In most cases, a well-drained soil gives best results, but some cut- tings root and grow well in wet soils, or even in standing water, as poplars, willows, some of the dogwoods, plane- tree, and others. The Formation of Roots. — As a rule, roots arise must readily from a joint, and it is, therefore, a common practice to cut oiT the base of the cutting just be- low a bud, as shown in the grape cutting. Fig. 59. Sometimes the cutting is severed at its point of attachment to the parent branch, and a small por- tion, or "heel," of that branch is allowed to re- main on the cutting. This heel may be nothing more than the curved and hardened base of the cutting at its point of attachment, as in the cornus cutting. Fig. 60. Sometimes an entire section of the parent branch is removed with the cutting, as in the "mallet" cuttings of grapes, Fig 61. Of course, comparatively few heel or mallet cuttings can be made from a plant, as only one cutting is obtained from a branch, and it is ad\'isable, there- fore, to "cut to buds" rather than to "cut to heels;" yet there are many plants which demand a heel, if the most satisfactory results are ti:) be obtained. The requirements of the different si)e- cies in this regard can be learned only by ex[)e- rience ; but it may be said that in general tliu hardest or closest wooded ])lants require a heel or a joint at the base. Willows, currants, bass- ^ (.rape woods, and others with like soft wood, emit roots "^"''"'ei-^'.?) readily between the buds, yet even in these cases propa- gators generally cut to buds. Wounds upon plants tjegin tu heal by the formation of loose, cellular matter which gives rise to .a mass of tissue known as a callus. This tissue eventually ro\ers the entire wound, if complete healing results. As a rule, the first apparent change in a cutting is the formation (jf a callus 56 CUTTAGE . upon tlie lower end, and it is coni:nonly supposed that this process must be well progressed Ijelore roots can form. But roots do not arise from the callus itself, but from the internal tissue, and in many plants they appear to bear no relation to the calhis in position. In willows, fjr instance, roots arise from the bark at some dista.ice from the callus. Yet, as a matter of practice, best results are obtained from cal- lused cuttings, particu larly if the cuttings are made from mature wood, but this is probably due ■to the fict that consider- able time is required for the formation of the ad- ventitious buds which give rise to the roots, not to any connection between the callusing and rooting" processes themseK'es. Hard-wood cuttings give better results when kept dormant for some time after they are cut. They are usually made in the fill, and stored dur ing the winter in sand sawdust or moss in a cool cellar, or buried in a sandy and well-drained place. This, at least, is tile practice W'tli hard-wood cuttings of deciduous plants, like currants. 60. Heel cutting of carjiu.^ CALLUSING OF CUTTINGS. 57 gooseberries, grapes, and many ornamental trees and shrubs. Hard-wood evergreen cuttings, when taken in the fall, are usually set at once, as their foliage will not allow them to be buried with safety; but in this case, the cuttings are kept "quiet" or dormant for a time, to allow callusing to progress. If cuttings are buried so deep that they cannot sprout, callusing may be hastened by placing them in a mild temperature. Sin- gle-eye .grape cuttings are sometimes packed between layers of sand in a barrel, and the barrel is set under a forcing-house bench where the temperature is about 50°. Eight or ten inches of sand is usually placed over the top layer. In this manner, cuttings which liave been obtained in winter or early spring- may be callused before planting time. It is a singular fact that the lower end ol the cutting, as it stood upon the [larent plant, 1 produces roots, and the upper end produces leaves and shoots, e\'en if the cutting is in- verted. And if the cutting is divided into several parts, each part will still exhibit this same differentiation of function. This is true even of root cuttings, and of other cuttings which possess no buds. The reasons for this localization of function are not clearly under- stood, although the phenomenon has often 61. Mallet been the subject of study. Upon this fact "'"'".«■ "f depends the hastening of the rooting process in inverted cuttings by tlie direct application of heat to the bottoms, and it likewise indicates that care must be taken to plant cuttings in appr(.).xiniately their natural direction if straight and handsome plants are desired. This remark applies particularly to horse-radisn "sets," for if these are placed wrong end up (even though they are root cuttings), the resulting root will be very crooked. 58 CUTTAGE. The particular method of making the cutting, and the treatment to which it should be subjected, must be deter- mined for each species or genus. Some plants, as many maples, can be propagated from wood two or three years old, but in most cases the wood of the previous or present season's growth is required. Nearly all soft and loose- wooded plants grow readily from hard-wood cuttings, while those with dense wood are generally multiplied more easily from soft or growing wood. Some plants, as oaks and nut-tress, are propagated from cuttings of any descrip- tion only with great difficulty, although the hickories grow rather freely from soft tip-cuttings of roots. It is probable, however, that all plants can be multiplied by cuttings if properly treated. It often happens that one or two species of a closely defined genus will propagate readily from cuttings while the other species will not, so that the propa- gator C'lmes to learn by experience that different treatment is profitable for very closely related plants. For instance, most of the viburnums are propagated from layers in commercial establishments, but /' plicatttni (properly Vi- burnum toiiieiitosiim) is grown extensively from cuttings. 2. THE VARIOUS KINDS OF CUTTINGS. Cuttings are made from all parts of the plant. In its lowest terms, cuttage is a division of the plant itself into two or more nearly equal parts, as in the division of crowns of rhubarb, dicentra, and most other plants which tend to form broad masses or stools. This species of cuttage is at times indistinguishable from separation, as in the divid- ing of lily bulbs (page 27), and at other times it is essen- tially the same as layerage, as in the dividing of stools which have arisen from suckers or layers. This breaking or cutting up of the plants into two or more large parts which arc already rooted is technically known as Division, and is discussed in Chapter II. It is only necessary, in dividing plants, to see that one or more buds or shoots Cuttings of tubers. 59 remain upon the portions, and these portions are thert treated in the same manner as independent mature plants are, or sometimes, when the divisions are small and weak, they may be handled for a time in a frame or forcing- house in the same manner as ordinary cuttings. Cuttings proper may be divided into four general classes, with respect to the part of the plant from which they are made : i, of tubers; 2, of roots and rootstocks ; 3, of stems ; 4, of leaves. All these forms of cuttings reproduce the given variety with the same degree of cer- tainty that grafts or buds do. Tuber Cuttings. — Tubers are thickened portions of either roots or stems, and tuber cuttings, therefore, fall logically under those divisions ; but they are so unlike ordinary cuttings in form that a separate classification is desirable. Tubers are stored with starch, which is de- signed to support or supply the plant in time of need. Tuber cuttings are, therefore, able to support themselves for a time if they are placed in conditions suited to their vegetation. Roots rarely arise from the tubers themselves, but from the base of the young shoots which spring from them. This fact is familiarly illustrated in the cuttings of Irish and sweet potatoes. The young sprouts can be removed and planted separately, and others will arise from the tuber to take their places. This practice is em- ployed sometimes with new or scarce varieties of the Irish potato, and three or four crops of rooted sprouts can be obtained from one tuber. The tuber is cut in two length- wise, and is then laid in damp moss or loose earth with the cut surface down, and as soon as the sprouts throw out roots sufficient to maintain them they are severed andl potted ofiF. Sweet potatoes are nearly always propagated in this manner. In making tuber cuttings, at least one eye or bud is left to each piece, if eyes are present ; but in root-tubers, like the sweet potato, there are no buds, and it is only necessary to leave upon each portion a piece of the epider- 6o CUTTAGfi. mis, from which adventitious buds may develop. The pseudo-bulbs of some orchids are treated in this manner, or the whole bulb is sometimes planted. A shoot, usually termed an off-shoot, arises from each pseudo-bulb or each piece of it, and this is potted off as an independent plant. (See Orchids, in Chapter \'I. ) Cuttings made from the ordinary stems of some tuber- iferous plants will produce tubers instead of plants. This is the case with the potato. The stem cutting produces a small tuber near its lower extremity, or sometimes in the a.xil of a leaf above ground, and this tuber must be planted to secure a new plant. Leaf cuttings of some tuberiferous or bulbiferous plants produce little tubers or bulbs in the same way (see the glo.xinia, Fig. Si ). Hyacinth leaves, inserted in sand in a iVame, will soon produce little Ijulblets at their base, and these can be re- moved and planted in the same manner as the bulbels described in Chapter II. Many tubers or tuber-like portions, which possess a very m<3ist or soft interior and a hard or close covering, vegetate more satisfactorily if allowed to dry for a time before planting. The pseudo- bulbs of orchids, crowns of pine-apples, and „, X ^ cuttings of cactuses are examples. Portions of 62. Root cutting of blackberrv (.\^i). . cactuses and pme-apples are soinetimes allowed to lie in the sun from two to four weeks before planting. This treatment dissipates the excessive moisture, and induces the formation of adven- titious l)uds. Root Cuttings. — Many plants can be multiplied with ease by means of short cuttings of the roots, particularly all species which p(jssess a natural tendency to "sucker" or send up sprouts from the root. All rootstocks or underground stems can be made into cuttings, as ex- plained under Division, in Chapter II.; but true root cut- CUTTINGS OF ROOTS. 6i tin.e:s possess no buds whatever, the biuls developing after the cutting- is planted. Roots are cut into |)ieces from i to 3 inches long, and are planted hori- zontally in soil or moss. These cut- tings thrive best with bottom heat, but blackberries and some other plants grow fairly well with ordi- nary outdoor treatment. A root cutting of the blackberry is shown in Fig. 62. (See Blackberry, in Chapter VI.) A growing dra- ccena ro(.>t cutting is exhibitetl in Fig. 63. The cuttings of this plant are handled in a propagating-franie or on a cutting-bench in a warm greenhouse. The bouvardias and many other plants are grown in the same manner. Many of the fruit trees, as peach, cherry, apple and pear, can be grown readily from these short root cuttings in a frame. Among kitchen garden plants, the horse-radish is the m(«t familiar example of propagation by root cuttings. The small side roots, a fourth inch or sn in diameter, are removed when the horse-radish is dug in fall or spring, and are cut into 4 to 6-inch lengths, as seen in Fig. 64. These cuttings are known as "sets" among gardeners. (See horse-radish. Chapter \'l.) When the crowns of horse-radish are cut and used for propagation, the opera- tion falls strictly under division, from the fact that buds or eyes are present; and the same remark a|jplies to rhubarb. 0/ draco'na 62 CUTTAGE. which, however, is not propagated by true root cuttings. Whilst root cuttings perpetuate the variety, they do not always transmit variegations. For example, the variegat>-d 64. Hot-S€-yadis}i root cuttings (.x>2. prickly conifrey does not always come true iVom root cut- tings. If the top is a graft, of course the root cutting will reproduce the stock, unless the given roots may have started from the cion. Thus the roots of dwarf pears may be either quince from the stock, or pear from the cion. Stem Cuttings. — Cuttings of the stem di\ide them- selves into two general classes : those known as cuttings of the ripe, mature or hard wood, and cuttings of the green, immature or soft wood. The two classes run into each other, and no hard and fast line can be drawn between them. Haj-d-wood cuttings are made at any time from late summer to spring. It is advisable to make them in the fall, in order to allow them to callus before the planting season, and to forestall injury which might result to the parent plant from a severe winter. They may be taken as early as August, or as soon as the wood is mature, and be stripped of leaves. Callusing can then take place in time to allow of lall planting. Or, the cuttings taken in early fall may be planter" immediately, and be allowed to callus where they stand. All fall cutting-beds should be mulched, to prevent the heaving of the cuttings. As a rule, howe\er, hard-wood cuttings are buried on a sandy LENGTHS OF CUTTINGS. 63 knoll or are stored in moss, sand or sawdust in ; until spring. (See page 56. ) There is no general rule to govern the length of hard-wood cuttings. Most propagators prefer to make them 6 to 10 inches long, as this is a conve- nient length to handle, but the shorter length is preferable. Two buds are always to be taken, one bud or one pair at the top and one at the bottom, but in "short-jointed" plants more are obtained. Sometimes all but the top buds are re- moved to prevent the starting of shoots or sprouts from below the soil. Grape cuttings are now commonly cut to two or three buds (Fig. 59), two being the favorite number for most varieties. (See grape, Chapter VI.) Currant and gooseberry cut- tings (Fig. 65) usually bear from 6 to 10 buds. All long hard-wood cuttings are set perpendicu- larly, or nearly so, and only one or two buds are allowed to stand above the surface. When the stock is rare, cuttings are made of single eyes or buds. This is particularly the case with the grape (see Chapter VI.), and currants and many other plants are occasionally grown in the same manner. Fig. 66 shows a single-eye grape cutting. Such cuttings, whatever the species, are commonly started under glass witli bottom heat, either upon a cutting-bench or in a hotbed, being planted an inch or so deep in a horizontal position, with the bud up. The soil should be kept uni- formly moist, and when the leaves appear the plants should be frequently sprinkled. In from 30 to 40 days the plants are ready to pot off. Single- eye cuttings are usually started about three or four months before the season is fit for outdoor ] lant- ing, or about February in the northern states. The most advisable method of treatment varies with the season and locality, as well as with the species or 111 65. Cur- rant ctttting (xJi). 64 CUTTAGE. 66. Single-cye grape cultinj- (xjz). variety. It is well known, for instance, that the Delaware grape can be propagated more easily in some regions than in others. A common style of single-eye cutting is made with the eye close to the top end, and , Si.,-- a naked liase of an inch or two. Tiiis is inserted into the soil perpendicularly, with the eye just above the surface. It is much used for a variety of plants. Many coniferous plants are increased by cuttings on a large scale, especially retinosporas, arhor-vita;s, and the like. Cuttings are made of the mature wood, which is planted at once (in autumn) in sand under cover, usually in a cool greenhouse (Fig. 67). Most of the species root slowly, and they often remain in the original flats or benches a vear, but their treatment is usually simple. In some cases junipers, yews and Cryptouicria Japonica will not make roots for nearly twelve months, keeping in good foliage, however, and ultimately giving good plants. They are always grown in slunled houses or frames, and some- times in inside proixagating-frames (Fig. 47I. (For more explicit directitins, see Thuya and Reti- nospora, in Chapter \'I.) Most remarkable instances of prop- agation by means of portions of stems are on record. Chips frcim a tree trunk ha\-e been known to produce plants, and the olive is readily in- creased by knots or excrescences formed upon the trunks of old trees. These excrescences occur in many plants, and are known as knaurs. (•T-Spmcc cutting(^%). They are often abtuidant about the base of large plane- trees, Ijut they are not often used for purposes of propa- gation. Whole trunks will sometimes grow after having been cut for many months, especially of such plants as CUTTINGS OF GROWING WOOD. 65 cactuses, many euphorbias and yuccas. Sections of these spongy trunks will grow, also. Truncheons of rycad trunks may also .give rise to plants (see Chapter VI.). Even saw-logs of our common trees, as elm and ash, wili sprout while in the "boom," or water. Grccn-'vood cuttins:s are more commonly employed than those from the mature wood, as they "strike" more quickly, they can be handled under glass in the winter, and more species can be propagated by them than by hard wood cuttings. "Slips" are green-wooded cuttings, but the term is often restricted to designate those which are made by pulling or "slipping" off a small side shoot, and it is com- monly applied to the multiplication of plants in window- gardens. All soft-wooded plants and many ornamental shrubs are increased by green cuttings. There are two .gen- eral classes of green-wood cuttings : those made from the soft and still growing wood ; and those made from the nearly ripened green wood, as in Azalea Jndica, oleari'cr ficus, etc. House plants, as geraniums, coleuses, carna- tions, fuchsias, and the like, are grown from the soft young wood, and many harder-wooded plants are grown in the same way. Sometimes true h:ird wood is used, as in camellia. hi making cuttings from soft and growing shoots, the iirst thing to learn is the proper te.\ture or age of shoot. A very soft and flabby cutting does not grow readily, or if it dcjes it is particularly liable to d:imi>-off and it usually makes a weak jjlant. Too old wood is slow to root, makes a ])oor, stunted plant, and is handled with difii- culty in many species. The ordinary test for beginners 63. Tou^h and brittle wood (xi4). 66 is the manner in which the shoot brealcs. If, upon being bent, the shoot snaps off squarely so as to hang together with only a bit of bark, as in the upper break in Fig. 68, it is in the proper con- dition for cuttings ; but if it bends or simply crushes, as in '^?JT5W'7-9'i?55^'-'?fJ-!?®j???''!!55'^^the lower portion of rMlf "^^ •■•'SP!^ Ae figure, it is either ^iilSte,.S*^^i«^ too oM o; too voung 6,. Soft cuttings (x>3) fo^ g^^j ^^5^U^ The tips of the shoots of soft-wooded plants are usually employed, and all or a portion of the leaves are allowed to remain. The cuttings are in- serted in sharp sand to a suffi- cient depth to hold them in place, and the atmosphere and soil must be kept moist to pre- vent wilting or "flagging." The cuttings should also be shaded for the first week or two. It is a common practice to cover newly set cut- tings with newspapers during the heat of the day. A propagating-frame is often employed. Soft cuttings are commonly cut below a bud or cut to a heel, but this is unnecessary in easily rooted plants like geranium, coleus, heliotrope, etc. Fig. 69 shows an oleander ^ , , , cutting at a, a carnation at b, and a geranium ^l. One style of 'to chrysanthf- at c. A coleus Cutting is illustrated in Fig. 70. jniiOT cu ing j^jjj,.|j, growers prefer to make a larger cutting of some firm-wooded plants, like chrysanthe- mums, as shown in Fig. 71. Coleus cidting (x'/3). CUTTINGS OF GROWING WOOD. 67 Sometimes the growth is so short or the stock so scarce that the cutting cannot be made long enough to hold itsell in the soil. In such case a toothpick or splinter is tied to the cutting to hold it erect, as in the cactus cutting, Fig. 72, or the geranium cutting, Fig. 73. In the window garden, soft cuttings may be started in a deep plate which is filled half or two-thirds full of sand and is then Inlled to the brim with water, and not shaded ; this method, practiced on a larger scale, is sometimes useful during the hot summer months. If bottom heat is desired, the plate may be set upon the back part of the kitchen stove. Oleanders usually root best when mature shoots are placed in bottles of water. Refractory subjects may be inserted through the hole in tlie bottom of an inverted flower-pot, as explained on pages 51 and 52. Cuttings from the nearly 'cuiimg mature green wood are em- 'ipi'^i „ t'7r ployed for hard-wooded (^Vi)- r,^, trees and shrubs, as diervillas (wei- gela), roses, hydrangeas, lilacs, etc. They are cut in essentially the same manner as the hard-wood cuttings described on page 55. They are often taken in summer, when the buds have developed and the wood has about attained its growth. They are cut to two to four or five buds, and are planted an inch or two deep in shaded frames. They are kept close for some days after setting, and the tops are sprinkled frequently. Care must be taken not to set them too deep ; they are rarely put in over an inch, if the cutting is six or seven inches long. "June-struck cuttings" are sometimes advantageously ■j;^. Cutting held by toothpick (xl^i). 68 CUTTAGE. made ; here the young- shoots of hardy shrubs are taken, when about 2 to 3 inches long, the leaves partly re- moved, and they are planted under glass. Several weeks are required for rooting, l_iut good plants are obtained, which, when wintered in a coldlranie, can be planted out in beds the next spring. Great care must be given to shading and watering. Hydi-angca paiiicnlala var. ■^'raiiJiflora and Akcbia qi(iiid/a are e.vamples ; or any deutzia or more easily ',.?i handled plant of which s-tock is scarce may - be cited. Part of the leaves are re- moved, as a rule, lietore these firm- wooded ctittings are set, as shown in the rose cutting, Fig. 74, and the hydrangea cutting. Fig. 75, This is not essential, huwe\er, but it lessens evaporation and the ten- dency to "Hag" or wilt. Inmost species the top can be cut ofl the cutting, as seen in Figs. 60 and 7,T, but in other cases it seriously injures the cutting. Weigelas are likely to sufter from such behead- ing ; an unusually large callus forms at tlie bottom, but the leaves shrivel and die. This frequently occurs in wliat some nurserymen call "end growers," among which may lie mentioned ueigelas 1 prop- erly diervillasi, the shrubby altheas, Ccnis Japonica, and 74. Rose cutting (x^^). . Hydrangea cuttnti^ [^^2)- CUTTINGS OF RIPENING WOOD. 69 such spireas as 6". craUcgifoIia, S. rolundifolia var. alba, and S. Catitoncnsis { 6'. Rccvcsii of the trade), var. rohusla. Tlie reader must not su[)pose, however, that all rose cuttings are made after the fashion of Fig. 74, althougli that is a popular style. Tea roses, and other forced kinds, are very largely propagated from softer wood cut to a single eye, with most or all of the leaf left on (Fig. 76). These firm-wood cuttings, about two inches long, are often made in the winter from forced plants. Cuttings taken in February, in the north, will be ready to transfer to borders or nursery beds when spring opens. Stout, well-rooted stock-plants are used from which to obtain the cuttings, and they are cut back when taken to the house in the fall, in order to induce a good growth. Many 76. Single-joint rose cutting (x 25). 77. Young plants from a leaf of Dryophylluvi calycinum (xJ0. 7° CUTTAGE. hardy shrubs can be easily propagated in this way when the work is difficult or unhandy in the open air: c. £-., jS. Begonia leaf cutting (x^). Spiirra Cantonensis, {S. Rcci'csii of tlie catalogues), and JJ. Win Hoiitlci, the roses and the like. Stock plants of the soft species, like coleus, lantanas and geraniums, are obtained in like manner. Leaf Cuttings. — ]\'Iany thick and lieavy leaves may be used as cuttings. Leaf cuttings are most commonly em- ployed in the showy-leaved begonias, in succulents, and in gloxinias, but many plants can be propagated by them. Even the cabbage can be made to grow from leaf cuttings. The ^.-' bryophyllum is one 'xNt^'^ of the best plants "^''"^i^^^ for showing the pos- sibilities of propaga- tion by lea\-es. If one of the thick leaves is laid upon moss or sand in a moist atmosphere, a young plant will start from nearly every pronounced angle in the margin (Fig. 77). In Rex begonias, also, the 79. An upright begonia leaf cutting (x^i CUTTINGS OF LEAVES. 7* whole leaf may be used, as sliown in Fig. 78. It is sim- ply laid upon moist sand in a frame and held down by splinters thrust through the ribs. The wound made by the peg induces the forma- tion of roots, and a young plant arises. A half dozen or more plants can be ob- tained from one leaf. Some operators cut off the ribs, instead of wounding them with a prick. Many gar- deners prefer to divide the leaf into two nearly equal parts, and then set each part, or the better one. up- right in the soil, the se\ered edge being covered. This is shown in Fig. 79. Fewer plants — often only one — are obtained in this manner, but they are strong. When stock is scarce the begonia leaf may be cut into several fan-shaped pieces. The whole leaf may be divided into as many triangular portions as can be secured with a portion of the petiole, a strong rib, or a vein attached at the base ; these pieces, inserted and treated like coleus cuttings, will root and make good plants within a reasonable time, say si.\ months. This form of cutting should be two to three inches long by an inch or inch and one-half wide. Ordinarily, in this style of leaf cutting, the petiole or stalk is cut off close to the leaf and the lower third or fourth of the leaf is then cut off by a nearly straight cut across the leaf This somewhat triangular base is then cut into as many wedge-shaped pieces as there are ribs in the leaf, each rib forming the center of a cutting. The point of each cutting should contain a portion of the petiole. The points of these Songue of the stock ; and finally, on the right, the body of the cwn. The spaces show the lack of union which sotnetimes occurs, (x 25.) six inches in diameter, which had been grafted at the surface of the ground in the nursery. In the presence of two critical observers, the trunks were split into many pieces, but no mark whatever could be found of the old gcJ GRAFTAGE. union. The grain was perfectly straiglit and bright tlirough the crown. Every internal evidence of a graft had disappeared. So far as the strength of a good union is concerned, all fruit growers know that trees rarely break where they are grafted. In a certain seedling orchard, many hundreds of grafts were set in the tops of the trees, often far out on large limbs ; and yet, Avith all the breaking of the trees by ice, storms and loads of fruit, a well-established uni(jn has not been known to break away. The strength of the union was tested in a different way. Two "stubs" were cut from an old and rather weak apple tree which had been cleft-grafted in the spring of 1SS9. These stulis were sawed up into cross-sections less than an inch thick, and each section, therefore, had a portion ot foreign wood gr(3wn into either side of it. These sections were now placed on a furnace and kept very hot for two days, in order to determine how they would check in seasoning, for it is evident that the checks occur in the weakest points. But in no case was there a check in the amalga- mated tissue, showing that it was really an element of physical strength to the plant. A similar test was made with yearling mulberry grafts, and with similar results ; and this case is particularly interesting because there were three species engrafted — the common Russian mul- berry, J/on/s rubra, and I\I. Japonica. From all these considerations, it is evident that, ad- mitting that hundreds of poor unions occur, there is no necessary reason why a graft should be a |ioint of physical weakness, and that the statement that "grafted plants of all kinds are open to all sorts of accidents and disaster," is not true. h. Are grafted plants less \-irile — that is, less strong, vigorous, hardy, shorter-lived — than others? It is evident that a poor union or an uncongenial stock will make the resulting plaTit weak, and this is a further proof that in- discriminate graftage is to be discouraged. But these DOES GRAFTAGE DEVITALIZE ? 91 facts do not affirm the question. There are two ways of approaching the general question, by philosophical con- siderations and by direct evidence. It is held by many persons that any asexual propaga- tion is in the end devitalizing, since the legitimate method of propagation is by means of seeds. This notion appears to have found confirmation in the conclusions of Darwin and his followers, that the ultimate function of se.x is to revitalize and strengthen the offspring following the union of the characters or powers of two parents ; for if the expensive sexual propagation invigorates the type, asexual propagation would seem to weaken it. It does not follow, however, that because sexual reproduction is good, asexual increase is bad, but rather that the one is, as a rule, better than the other, without saying that the other is injurious. We are not .surprised to find, there- fore, that some plants have been asexually propagated for centuries with apparently no decrease of vitality, al- though this fact does not prove that the plant may not have positively increased in virility if sexual propagation had been employed. The presumption is always in favor of sexual reproduction, a point which will be admitted by every one. And right here is where graftage has an enormous theoretical advantage over cuttage or any other asexual multiplication : the root of the grafted plant springs from sexual reproduction, for it is a seedling, and if the union is physically perfect, as is frequently the case, there is reason to suppose that grafting between consanguineous plants is better than propagating by cuttings or layers. In other words, graftage is really sexual multiplication, and if seeds have any ad\'antage over buds in forming tlie foundation of a plant, graftage is a more perfect method than any other artificial practice. It is, in fact, the nearest approach to direct sexual reproduction, and when seeds cannot be relied upon wholly, as they cannot, for the reproduction of many garden varieties, it is the ideal practice, always provided, of course, that it is prop- 92 GRAFTAGE. erly done between congenial subjects. It is not to be ex- pected that tlie practice is adapted to all plants, any more than is the making of cuttings of leaves or of stems, but this fact cannot be held to invalidate the system. It lias been said, in evidence that graftage is a devital- izing or at least disturbing process, that grafted plants lose the power of independent propagation. Mr. Bur- bidge writes that "any plant once grafted becomes ex- ceedingly difficult of increase, except by grafting." Evi- dence should be collected to show if this is true. All our fruits grow just as readily from seeds from grafted as from seedling trees, and it is doubtful if there is a well authen- ticated case of a plant which grows readily from cuttings becoming any more difficult to root from cuttings after having been grafted. But is there direct evidence to show that "grafting is always a make-shift, " that it is a "toy game," that "grafted plants of all kinds are open to all sorts of accidents and disaster," that "own-rooted things are in all ways infinitely better, healthier, and longer-lived?" These statements allow of no exceptions ; they are universal and iron-bound. If the questions were to be fully inet, we should need to discuss the whole art of graftage in all its detail, but if there is one well authenticated case in which a grafted plant is as strong, as hardy, as vigorous, as productive and as long- li\'ed as seedlings or as cutting-plants, we shall have estab- lished the fact that the operation is not necessarily perni- cious, and sliall ha\'e created the presumption that otlier cases must exist. Some forty years ago, a traveller took apple seeds from his old home in Vermont and planted them in Michigan. The seeds produced some hundred or more lusty trees, but as most of the fruit was poor or indifferent, it was decided to top-graft the trees. This grafting was done in the most desultory manner, some trees being grafted piece-meal, with some of the original branches allowed to remain perma- nently, while others uere entirely clianged over at once; IS GRAFTACE DEVITALIZING ? 93 and a few of them had been grafted on the trunk about three or four feet high, when they were as large as broom- sticks, the whole top having been cut off when the opera- tion was performed. A few trees which chanced to bear tolerable fruit, scattered here and there through the orchard, were not grafted. The orchard has been, therefore, an e.xcellent experiment in grafting. Many of the trees in this old orchard have died from undeterminable causes, and it is an interesting fact that fully half, and probably even more, of the deaths have been seedling trees which were for many years just as vigorous in every way as the grafted trees ; and of the trees that remain, the grafted specimens are in every way as vigorous, hardy and productive as the others. Some of these trees have two tops, one of which was grafted shoulder high in the early days, and the other grafted into the resulting top many years later. And those trees which contain both original branches and grafted ones in the same top show similar results— the foreign branches are in every way as vigorous, virile and productive as the others, and they are proving to be just as long-lived. Here, then, is a positive experiment compassed by the lifetime of one man, which shows that own-rooted trees are not al- ways "infinitely better, healthier, and longer-lived" than grafted plants. This illustration may be considered as a type of thousands of orchards, containing various fruits, in all parts of the country. The fact may be cited that the old seedling orchards which still remain to us about the country are much more uneven and contain more dead trees or vacant places than the commercial grafted orchards of even the same age. This is due to the strug- gle for existence in the old orchards, by which the weak trees have disappeared, while the grafted orchards, being made up of selected varieties of known virility and hardi- ness, have remained more nearly intact, and if the seed- ling orchards have suffered more than the grafted ones, it must be because they have had more weak spots. The universal favor in which graftage is held in Amer- 94 GRAFTAGE. ica is itself a strong presumption in its favor. Growers differ among themselves as to the best methods of per- forming the operation, but an intelligent American will not condemn the system as necessarily bad or wrong. In 1890 there were growing in the United States nurseries 240,570,666 apple trees, 88,494,367 plum trees, 77,223,402 pear trees, and 49,887,874 peach trees, with enough other species to make the total of fruit trees 518,016,612. All of this vast number will go as grafted or budded trees to the consumer, and he will accept none other. It is true that half of them may die from various causes before they reach bearing age, but graftage itself plays a small part in the failure, as may be seen in the case of grapes and small fruits, which outnumber the tree fruits in nursery stock, and of which less than one-half probably reach maturity, and yet these are cutting-grown plants. It is, in nineteen cases out of twenty, the carelessness of the grower which brings failure. It is impossible, if one considers the facts broadly and candidly, to arrive at any other conclusion than this : Graftage is not suited to all plants, but in those to which it is adapted— and they are many — it is not a devitalizing process. 2. BUDDING. Budding is the operation of applying a single bud, bearing little or no wood, to the surface of the growing wood of the stock. The bud is applied directly to the cambium layer of the stock. It is nearly always inserted under the bark of the stock, but in flute-budding a piece of bark is entirely removed, and the bud is used to cover the wound. There is no general rule to determine what species of plants should be budded and which ones cion- grafted. In fact, the same species is often multiplied by both operations. Plants with thin bark and an abundance of sap are likely to do best when grafted ; or if they are budded, the buds should be inserted at a season when the SHIELD-BUDDING. 95 sap is least abundant, to prevent the "strangulation " or "throwing out" of the bud. In such species, the bark is not strong enougli to hold the bud firmly until it unites ; and solid union does not take place until the flow of sap lessens. Budding is largely employed upon nearly all young fruit trees, and almost universally so upon the stone fruits. It is also used in roses and many ornamental trees. Upon nursery trees, it is employed in a greater number of cases than grafting is, but grafting is in commoner use for working-over the tops of large trees. Budding is com- monly performed during the growing season, usually in late summer or early fall, because mature buds can be procured at that time, and young stocks are then large enough to be worked readily. But budding can be done in early spring, just as soon as the bark loosens ; in this case perfectly dormant buds must have been taken in winter and kept in a cellar, ice-house or other cool place. Budding is always best performed when the bark slips or peels easily. It can be done when the bark is tight, but the operation is then tedious and uncertain. It is also much more successful when performed in dry, clear weather. Shield-budding. — There is but one style of budding in general use in this country. This is known as shield-bud- ding, from the shield-like shape of the portion of bark which is removed with the bud. Technically, the entire se\'ered portion, comprising both bark and bud, is called a "bud." A shield-bud is shown natural size in Fig. 85. This is cut from a young twig of the present season's growth. It is inserted underneath the bark of a young stock or branch (Fig. 91), and is then securely tied, as shown in Fig. 92. The minor details of shield-budding differ with nearly every operator, and with the kind of plant which is to be budded. In commercial pracdce, it is performed in the north mostly from early July until the middle of Septem- g6 graftagE. ber. In the southern states it usually begins in June. As a rule, apples and pears are budded earlier in the season than peaches are. This is due to the fact that peach stocks are nearly always budded the same season the pits are planted, and the operation must be de- layed until the stocks are large enough to be worked. Most fruit-stocks, especially apples and pears, are not budded until two years after the seeds are sown. The plants grow for the first season in a seed-bed. The next spring they are transplanted into nursery rows, and budded when they become large enough, which is usually the same year they are transplanted. The nurseryman reckons the age of his stock from the time of transplanting, and the age of the marketable tree from the time when the buds or grafts begin to grow. Stocks are sometimes "dressed" or trimmed before being set into the nursery. This operation consists in cutting off a fourth or third of the top, and the tap root. This causes the roots to spread and induces a vig- orous growth of top, because it reduces the number of shoots ; and such stocks are more expeditiously handled than long and untrimmed ones. A Manetli rose stock, dressed and ready for planting, is shown in Fig. 86. This stock was grown in France, and upon being received in this country- "was trimmed as it is now seen. It will now (in the spring) be set in the nursery row, and it will be budded near the surface of the ground in the summer. ^^ ^,.^, Stocks should be at least three-eighths inch ""'-'^ (x'-i)- in diameter to be budded with ease. Just before the buds are set, the leaves are removed from the base of the stock, so that they will not interfere with the operation. Thev are usually rubbed off with the hand for a space of five or si.K inches abo\'e the ground. They should not be removed more than two or three days in advance of budding, else SHIELD-BUDDING. 97 the growth of the parts will be checked and the bark will "set." Any branches, too, as in the quince, which might impede the work of the budder, are to be cut off at the same time. The bud is inserted an inch or two above the sur- face of the ground, or as low down as the budder can work. The advantage of setting the bud low is to bring the resulting crook or union wliere it will not be seen, and to enable it to be set below the surface of the ground when the tree is transplanted, if the planter so desires. It is a common and good practice, also, to place the bud upon the north side of the stock to shield it from the sun. A greater number of the buds will grow when set upon the north side. The buds are taken from strong and well hardened shoots of the season's growth and of the desired variety. Usually the whole of the present growth is cut, the leaves are removed, but a part of the petiole or stalk of each leaf is left (as in Figs. 85 and 87) to serve as a handle to the bud. This trimmed shoot is tlien called a "stick." A stick may bear two dozen good buds when the growth has been strong, but only ten or twelve buds are commonly secured. The upper buds, which are usually not fully grown, and which are borne on soft wood, are usually discarded. The buds are cut with a thin-bladed sharp knife. Various styles of budding knives are in use, and the budder usually has decided prefer- ences for some particular pattern. The essentials of a good budding knife are these : the very best of huds steel, a thin blade which has a curved or half- ^^Vi)- circular cutting end, which is light, and handy in shape. The curved end of the blade is used for making the incisions in the stock. The handle of the budding-knife usually runs into a thin bone scalpel at the end, and this portion is designed for the lifting or loosening of the bark on the 98 GRAFTAGE. stock. The operation of raising the bark by means of this scalpel is often called "boning." Some budders, how- ever, raise the bark with the blade. A good form of blade, but one seldom made, has a rounded end, the upper side i^J, Biidding-knife with stationary blade (.\! of the curve being ground simply to a thin edge. This blade may be used both for cutting tlie bark and loosening it, thus overcoming tlie necessity of reversing the knife every time a bud is set. If this form of blade were com- monly known it would undoubtedly soon come into favor. The blade of a common budding-knife can be ground to this shape. In the large fruit-tree nurseries of New York state, the knife shown in Fig. 88 is in common use. This is a clieap knife (costing fifteen cents or less by the dozen ), with a stationary blade. \\'hen using this knife, the oper- ator loosens the bark with the rounded edge of the blade. The bud is usually cut about an inch long. Most budders cut from below up- wards (as seen in the in- verted stick in Fig. Sy, and in Fig. 89), but some prefer to make a downward inci- sion. It does not matter just how the bud is cut, if the surfaces are smooth and even, and the bud is not too thick. Some propagators cut the buds as they %o, while others prefer to cut a whole stick before setting any, letting each bud hang by a bit of bark at the top, and which is cut off S(]uarely «iien wanted, as is shown in Fig. 87. On a stick a fourtli or three-eighths inch tlirough li'y. Cutting the bud. SHIELD-BUDDING. 99 the cut, at its deepest point just under the bud, is about one-fourth the diameter of the twig. A bit of wood is, therefore, removed with the bud, as shown in Fig. 85. There is some discussion as to whether tliis wood should be left upon the bud, but no definite experiments have been made to show that it is injurious to the resulting tree. Some budders remove the wood with the point of the knife or by a deft twist as the bud is taken from the stick. But buds appear to live equally well with wood attached or removed. The bit of wood probably serves a useful purpose in retaining moisture in the bud, but it at the same time interposes a foreign body between the healing surfaces, for the bark of the bud unites directly with the surface of the stock. Probably the very youngest portions of the wood in the bud unite with the stock, but if the budding-knife cuts deep, the denser part of the wood should be removed from the bud. This remark is particu- larly true, also, of all buds which are likely to be cut into the pith, pa. Preparing the stock (x^). as m the nut trees. The wound or matrix which is to receive the bud is made by two incisions, one vertical and one transverse (Fig. 90). These are light cuts, extending only through the bark. The vertical slit is usually made first and by the rounded end of the blade. This is an inch or inch and a half long. The transverse cut is made across the top of the vertical cut by one rocking motion of the blade. The corners of the bark may be lifted a little by an outward motion of the blade so as to allow the bud to be pushed in, but unless the bark slips very freely it will have to be loosened by the end of the blade or by the scalpel on the reverse end of the handle, as GRAFTAGE. previously explained. The bud is now inserted in the cleft of the bark. It is pushed down part way by the fingers, as in Fig. 91, but it is usually driven home by pushing down upon the leaf-stalk handle with the back of the knife-blade. The entire bud should pass into the cleft; or if a portion of it should pnjject above, it should be cut off. If the bark peels freely, the bud will slip in easily and will follow the cleft, but if it sticks (|,L somewhat, more care is necessary to prevent f"'''* the bud from rimning out. If the bark is very tight, it may have to be loosened with the knife throughout the length of the cleft ; but ' budding should be performed, if possible, when such pains is not necessarj-. The bud must now be tied. The whole niatri.x should be closed and /~-s bound Securely, as repre- K-l sented in Fig. 92. The string is usually started be- low the bud, usually being ■Hra]5ped twice below the bud and about thrice above it, in fruit-trees, the lower end being held by lapiiing the Second course over it, and the upper end being secured by drawing a bow through under the upper course, or sometimes by tying an ordi- nary hard knot. Care should be taken not to bind the string over the bud itself. The strings are previously cut the required length — about a foot — and the tying is performed very quickly. Any soft cord may be employed. Yarn and c.irpet warp are sometimes used. The most 9-; Th'-bud connnon material, at least until the last few years, has been bass-bark. This is the imier bark of the bass-wood or linden. The bark is stri|iped in early summer, and the inner portion is macerated or 9/. Bud cntriing' filatri.v Ix'rJ. TYING SHIELD-BUDS. lOI "rotted" ill wattr for four or five weeks. It is then removed, cut into the desired lengths, and stripped into narrow bands — one-fourth to one-half inch wide— when it may be sorted and stored away for future use. If it is stiff and harsh when it comes from the maceration, it should be pounded lightly or rubbed through the hands until it becomes soft and pliable. The best tying material which we now have is undoubtedly raffia. It is an imported article, coming from the eastern tropics (the product of the palm Raphia Riiffia), but it is so cheap that it is supersed- ing even bass-bark. It is strong and pliable, and is an e.Kcellent material for tying up plants in the greenhouse, or small ones outdoors. The greatest disadvantage in its use in the budding field is its habit of rolling when it becomes dry, but it may be dipped in water a few minutes before it is taken into the field, or, better still, it may be allowed to lie on the fresh ground during the previous night, during which time it will absorb sufficient moisture to become pliable. In two or three weeks after the bud is set, it will have "stuck" or united to the stock. The bandage must then be removed or cut. It is the common practice to draw a budding-knife over the strings, on the side opposite the bud, completely severing them and allowing them to fall off as they will. If the strings are left on too long they will con- strict the stem and often kill the bud, and they also have a tendency to cause the bud to "break " or to begin to grow. The bud should remain perfectly dormant until spring, for if it should begin to grow it will be injured and perhaps killed by the winter. It should remain green and fresh ; if it slirivels and becomes brown, even though it still adheres to the stock, it is worthless. Advantage can be taken, when cutting the tyings, to rebud any stocks which have failed. If the bud should begin to grow, because of a warm and wet fall or other reasons, there is little remedy e.xcept perhaps to head the shoot back if it should become long enough. If the stocks are protected by snow during winter, some of the buds at the base of the shoot may pass the cold in H GRAFTAGE. safety. A dormant bud, as it appears in the winter follow- ing the budding, is shown in Fig. 93. This bud was inserted in August, 1895 ; the picture was made in March, 1S96 ; tlie fnid should have started to grow in JNIay, 1S96. The spring following the budding, the slock should be cut off just above the bud, in order to tlirow the entire force of the plant into the bud. The stock ii gener- ally, and preferably, cut off twice. The first cutting lea\-es the stuli 4 or 5 inches long above the bud. Tliis cutting is made as soon as the stocks begin to show any signs of activity. Two weeks later, or when tlie bud has begun to grow (the shoot liaving reached the length of an incli or t«'o), the stock is again cut off a half- -^ — ;— — inch abcjve the bud I Fig. 94). A ^- I Fig. .rreater pn; '. Doi viaiit hud of plum (-\l). portion of buds will usually grow if this double heading- in is done, in outdoor condi- tions, tlian if the stock is cut back to tlie bud at the first operation. If the root is stn ing and the soil good, the bud uill grow 2 to 6 leet the first year, depending much upon the species. All sprouts should be kept rubbed off tlie stock, and the Imd should be trained to a single stem. In some weak and crooked growers, the new : ; ■' ■■' shoot must be tied, and some propagators 94. Ctdtni!: off the "1 such cases cut olf the stock 5 or 6 stock (x";). inches al)i)\-e the Ijud and let it serve .as a stake to whicli to tie ; but this operatie'ii is too e.\i5ensi\e to be employed on common fruit trees. The stock, of course, must not be allowed to grow. Late in the season JUNE BUDDING. IO3 the stock is cut down close to the bud. Peaches and some other fruits are sold after having made one season's growth from the bud, but pears, apples, and most other trees are not often sold vuitil the second or tliird year. "June budding" is a term applied to the l)udding of stocl^s in early summer, while they are yet growing rap- idly. It is employed at the south, where the stocks can be grown to sufficient size by the last of June or first of July. Small stocks are usually employed — those ranging from one-fourth to one-third inch being preferred. A few strong leaves should be left on the stock below the bud, and after the bud has "stuck," the whole top should not be cut off at once, else the growing plant will receive a too severe check. It is best to bend the top over to check its growth, or to remove the leaves gradually. The bandages should not be left on longer than six to ten days if the stock is growing rapidly. To prevent the constric- tion of the stem, muslin bands are sometimes used instead of bass or raffia. In hot and dry climates the buds should be set an inch or two higher in June budding than in the ordinary practice, to escape the great heat of the soil. June budding is used upon the peach more than any other tree, although it can be employed for any species which will give large enough stocks from seed by the June fol- lowing the sowing. In peaches, the bud will produce a shoot from 3 to 5 feet high the same season the buds are set, so that marketable budded trees can be produced in one season from the seed. A different kind of early summer budding is sometimes performed upon apples and other fruit-trees. In this case, the stocks are one or two years old from the transplanting, the same as for common budding, but dormant buds are used. These buds are cut the previous fall or winter in the same manner as cions, and when spring approaches they are put on ice — in sawdust, sand or moss -and kept until the stocks are large enough to receive them. The particu- lar advantage of this method is the distributing of the labor 104 GRAFTAGE. of budding over a longer season, thereby avoiding the rush which often occurs at the regular budding time. It is also a \'ery useful means of top-working trees, for the buds start the same Season in which the buds are set, and a whole sea- son is thereby saved as compared with the common sunmier or fall budding. Budders usually carry a numl:>er uf " sticks " with them when they enter the nursery. These may be carried in the pocket, or thrust into the boot-leg ; or S(.)me budders carry four or five sticks in the hand. The budder follows a row- throughout its length, passing over those trees which are too small to work. It is a common practice to rest upon one knee while budding, as shown in Fig. 95, but 'S^SX^^iAr^ some prefer to use a ^^^^= low stool. It is a r^3v?..si~,^ common practice, in ^ -=-^-Sct^^^^^^^^£3j^^s^g._ . _ some nursery regions, C^v^'- .,«=-'==- ^.= ==b=s— =^ fur budders to use a Biidder at iL'ork low box with half of the top covered to ser\'e as a seat, and the box is used for carrying buds, string, knives and whetstone. The tying is usually done by a boy, who should follow close behind the budder, in order that the buds shall not dry out. An expert budder will set from 1,000 to 3,000 buds a day, in good stock, and with a boy (or twc) of them for the latter speed) to tie. Peach stocks are more rapidly budded than most others, as the bark is firm ami slips e.isily, and some remarkable records are made l)y skillful workmen. Budding is sometimes employed the same as top-grafting for changing o\"er tlie top of an old tree from one variety to another. The buds cannot be easily inserted in very old and stilf bark, but in ail smooth and fresh bark thev work readily, even if the limb is three or four vears old ; but the PRONG- AND PLATE-BUDDING. 105 younger the limb, the greater the proportion of Ijuds whicli may be expected to live. Sometimes old trees are severely pruned the year before the budding is to be done, in order to obtain young shoots in which to set the buds. In fruit trees six or seven years old or less, budding is fully as advantageous as grafting. New varie- ties are also budded into old branches in order to hasten bearing of the bud, for the jiurpose of testing the variety. Here budding has a distinct advantage over grafting, as it uses fewer buds, and the wood of new sorts is often scarce. Prong-budding. — A modification of the aim- po. J^iun:,'-- mon sliield-bud is the use of a short prong or spur '"'^K^'-)- in the place of a simple bud. The bud is cut in essentially the same manner as the shield-bud (Fig. 96). This is chiefly used upon the Pacific coast for nut trees, particularly for the walnut, and when the trees are dormant. The method is very much like grafting, for the stock is cut ofif just abo\'e the bud when the operation is performed, and the wound, in addition to being tied, is covered over with grafting wax. In budding the walnut, it is essential that nearly all the wood be removed from the bud, in order to bring as nuich as possible of the bark in direct contact with the stock. i:il This is sometimes called twig-budding. Plate -budding is a method sometimes em- ployed with the olive, and is probably adapted to other species. A rectangular incision is made through the bark of the stock, and the flap of bark is turned down (Fig. 97). A bud is cut of similar shajie, with no wood attached, and it is inserted in the rectangular space, and is then covered with the fla]"), which is brought 07. /"/a/ij-AMi- up and tied. The subsequent treatment of the ims ("K). bud is similar to that of the ordinary shield-bud. A method of winter budding used at the Texas Fxperi- io6 GRAFTAGE. ^ ment Station (Bull. 37, p. 713 ; Sixth Rep., 414) is evidently a modification of this plate-budding; " The method is simply to cut a slice of bark down the stock, leaving it still attached to the stock at the lower end, to help hold the bud. Part of the loose strip is then cut off and the bud fitted over the cut place with the lower end being held firmly by the part of the slip left. A piece of rafifia is then tied around the bud to hold it firmly." H-budding (Fig. 98) is a modification of plate- budding. In this method, a flap is formed both above and below, covering the bud from both ends, and allowing of more per- fect fitting of the bark about the bulge of the bud. Flute-budding. — An occa- «'* j^",*'f;,/, , sio;'al method of budding is that kn(jwn under the general name ijt| !'; |i I / of flute-budding. In this method the bud is not cox-ered by the bark of the stock, as in the other methods here described. Fig. 99 illustrates it. A portion of bark is re- nn)\-ed entirely from the stock, and a similar piece is fitted into its place. When the wound extends only part way about the stem, as in the illustration, the operation is fe| sometimes known as veneer-budding. m, ^\'hen it extends entirely round the W stem it is called ring or annular-budding. Flute-bud- 1 I ding is usually performed late in the spring. It is best P adapted to plants with very thick and heavy bark. The bud is tied and afterwards treated in essentially the same manner as in shield-budding. A species of flute-budding in which a ring of bark is slipped down TOO. Chip upon the tip of a shoot, which has been girdled for the (xjs). purpose, is called whistle- or tubular-budding. 99 Flute-buddins: GRAFTING. CUTTING THE CIONS. 107 Chip-budding (Fig. loo) is a method whiih inserts a chip of bark and wood into a mortise in the stocl;. It is used in spring, when the stock is dormant and the bark does not slip. It is lield in place by tying, and it is better for being covered with wax. 3. GRAFTING. Grafting is the operation of inserting a cion — or a twig comprising one or more buds — into the stock, usually into an incision made in the wood. It is divided or classified in various ways, but chielly with reference to the position of the union upon the plant, and to the method in which the cion and stock are joined. In reference to position, there are four general classes: i. Root-grafting, in which the stock is entirely a root. 2. Crown-grafting, which is performed upon the crown or collar of the plant just at the surface of the ground, an operation which is often con- founded with root-grafting. 3. Stem-grafting, in which the cion is set on the trunk or body of the tree below the limbs, a method occasionally employed with young trees. 4. Top-grafting, or grafting in the branches of the tree. Any method of inserting the cion may be employed in these classes. The best classification, particularly for pur- poses of description, is that which considers methods of making the union. Some of these kinds of grafting are catalogued on pages So and Si. The most important methods of grafting are now to be considered ; but al- most endless modifications ma>- be made in the details of the operations. The union of the cion with the stock, like the union of the bud and the stock, depends upon the growing together of the cambial tissue of the two. It is, therefore, essential that the tissue lying between the outer bark and the wood in the cion should come closely in contact with the similar tissue of the stock. Cions are cut in fall or winter, or any time before the buds swell in spring. Only the previous year's growth is io8 GRAFTAGE. usctl in all ordinary cases, but in maples and some other trees, older wood may be used. Tn the grafting of peaches — which is very rarely done — the best cions are supposed to be those which bear a small portion of two-year-old wood at the lower end. This portion of old wood probably serves no other purpose than a mechanical one, as the recent wood is soft and pithy. It is a common opinion that cions are worthless if cut dur- ing freezing' weather, but this is unfounded. The cions are stored in sand, moss or sawdust in a cool cellar, or they may be buried in a sandy place. Or sometimes, when a few are wanted for top-grafting, they are thrust into the ground beside the tree into which they are to be set the following spring. If the cions are likely to start before the spring graft- ing can be done, they may be placed in an ice Oo« o/ li'JLise. Only well-formed and mature buds "'''"'*'^''*'' should be used. Sometimes flower-buds are inserted for the ]5urpose ot iruiting a new or rare variety the following year, but unless particular pains is taken to nurse such a ciun, it is apt to give only very indififerent results. Whip-grafting. — Whip or tongue-grafting is em- ployed only on small stocks, usually upon those one or two years old. Both the cion and stc.ck are cut across diagonally, the cut surface extending from i to 2 inches, according to the size of the jiart. A vertical cleft is then made in both, and the two are joined by shoving the tongue of the cion into the cleft of the stock. The operation can be understood by relereuce to Figs. loi, 102 and 103. Fig. loi shows the end of a cion, cvit natural size. The stock is cut in the same manner, and the two are joined in Figs. 102 and 103. The jiarts are held firmly by a bandage — as bass bark or raffia — passed five or six times around them. If the graft is to stand K'afi m position. WA Whip- above ground, the wound must be protected by (x;4). ROOT-GRAFTING. log applying wax over the bandage. (Recipes for wax may be found at tlie end of this chapter. ) Root -grafting, especially of fruit stocks, is per- formed almost entirely by the whip-graft. This opera- tion is performed in winter. The stocks, either one or two years old, are dug and stored in the fall. In January or February the grafting is begun. In true root-grafting, only pieces of roots are used, but some prefer to use the whole root and graft at the crown. In piece-root-grafting, from two to four trees are made from a single root. A piece ofroot from two to four inches long is tised, as shown in Fig. 103. The parts are usually held by winding with wa.xed string or waxed bands. The string should be strong enough to hold the parts securely and yet weak enough to be broken without hurting the hands. No. iS knitting cotton answers this purpose admir- ably. It should be bought in balls, which are allowed to stand for a few minutes in melted wax. The wax soon saturates the ball. The ball is then removed and laid away to dry, when it is ready for use. This wa.xed string will remain almost in- definitely in condition for use. Waxed bands, which are sometimes used, are made by spread- ing melted wax over thin muslin, which is cut into narrow strips when dry. The string is the more useful for rapid work. The grafts are packed away in sand, moss or sawdust in a cool cellar until spring, when the two parts will be firmly callused together. Some propagators are now discarding all tying of njot-grafts. The grafts are packed away snugly, and if the storage cellar is cool — nut above 40° — they will knit together so that they can be planted without danger of breaking apart. If the cellar is warm, the grafts will start into growth and be lust. It is very important that the cellar in which rout-grafts are stored shall not become close or warm, else the grafts will Root-graft. no GRAFTAGE. heat or rot. Some of the characteristics of root-grafted trees are discussed in the last part of this chapter. //* yiy?TT~i>^ In common root-grafting in the east and south, the cion bears about three buds, and the root is about tlie same length, or perhaps sliorter. Tlie va- riable and unknown character of these roots as, regards hardiness, renders it important that, in very severe climates, roots shi.juld be obtained from the same plant as the cion, the hardiness of which is known. It is, therefore, the practice in the prairie states to use a \'ery long cion— 8 inches to a foot — and to set it in the ground up to the top bud. The piece of root serves as a temporary support, and roots are emitted along the cion. When the tree is ready for sale the old piece of root is olten removed, or some- times it falls away of itself. In this manner own-rooted trees are obtained, and it is lor this reason tliat root-grafting is more univer- sally practiced west of the Great Lakes than budding is. E\en cions of ordi- nary length often emit roots, as seen in Fig. 104, but such cions are not long enough to reach into uniformly moist soil. In practice, some varieties of fruit trees are found to emit roots from the cion more readily than others. Root-grafting is often chea])er than budding, as it is perlormed when labor is cheap, and \\\o or more trees are made from one stock. Cuttings may be used as stocks root-graft (y.yi). in those instances in which a variety [04 Growin. MODIFICATIONS OF THE WHIP-GRAFT. which grows readily from cuttings unites quiclcly variety which does not grow from cuttings. Fig. lo trates such a case. The stocl-c, or cutting, is the true Downing mulberry, which stril^es root readily. The cion is any of the varieties of Moms alba or ilf. rubra, like the New American or Hicks, which roots with difficulty from cuttings. In this instance, the buds have been cut from tlie stock to prevent it from suckering. , Any sliarp and strong thin-bladed knife may be used for tlie making of whip-grafts. For small and tender plants, a common budding-knife is suf- ficient, but it is too light for most work. A favor- ite style of knife for root-grafting is shriwn in Fig. io6. It is much like a shoe-knife, witli large, cylindrical handle and a stationary blade. These knives can be had by the dozen for aljout twenty- five Cents apiece. Modified Whip-grafts. — There are many modifi- cations of the whip-graft. One of them (Fig. 107), used for the grape, is described Ijy Lodeman i:i "The Gral'ling of Grapes" (Bulletin 77, Cornell Experiment Station): " Fig. 107 represents a form of grafting which is quite connnon in Italy. Tlie stock is cut off at an angle an inch or two below the surlace of the soil, and is then split downward, beginning a little above the center of the cut sur- face. Tliis downward cut is made at a sliglit angle to the grain, in order to prevent splitliiig. In true tongue or whip-grafting the ciun is |ire- pared in the same manner as the stock ; but in the graft shown in the figure, a portion of t!ie Iiark is 106. Graftinj-knife with stationary biade (.vj^j. GRAFTAGE. loy. A modified whip- graft , on a g^rape stock (xi^). first removed, and from the lower end of this cut another is made inward and upward, in order to form the tongue. N The cion is not cut in two when the tongue is W }j made, as is the stock, but it extends below and I'VJ also takes root. Cion and stock are then united, as shown in Fig. 107, care being take to have the cambium layers in contact on one side. When cuttings or parts of equal dia- meters are grafted by the tongue-graft, the layers on both sides may be placed together. The tying of grafts is advis- able when small wood is used, but large stocks, when cut below the ground, scarcely require this precaution. When the operation is finished, the soil is heaped up, as in cleft-grafting." An old-fashion- ed modification of the whip-graft leaves the end of the cion 4 or 5 inches long, so that it may project downwartls into a bottle or dish of water, thereby al'S(M'bing suflrcient moisture to maintain the cion until it imites with tlie stock. Another ni'jdification, with the same purpose in view, is to allow the ends of the tying material to fall into the water. These methods are called "bot- tle-grafting" in the books. They are really of no account, although they might l)e employed for certain difficult subjects amongst ornamental plants ; but even there, better results can be nb- tained by placing the grafts in a close frame (like that shown in Fig. 47), or by packing them in = ^' ' - ^ = loX. Double 1,'hip-'. moss. (xjj). ■roft SADDLE, SPLICE, AND VENEER-GRAFTS. 113 A "double whip-graft" is shown in Fig. loS. In this metho<-l, the cion is cut upon one side into a wedge, and upon the other witli a long tongue (h). The stock is provided with two clefts, at K and P. This cion, having two supports in the stock, forms a most intimate contact with its host ; hut it is too slow, and the rewards too slight, to warrant its general use. This is sometimes, but erroneously, called a saddle-graft. Saddle-grafting. — Saddle-grafting is a simple and useful method for the shoots of small growing plants. The stock is cut to a wedge-shape end by two cuts, and the cion is split and set upon the wedge (Fig. 109). The union is then tied and waxed in the same way as exposed whip-grafts. It is oftenest em- ployed when a terminal bud is used, as the wood in such cions is usually too weak to work easily witli a tongue. Splice-grafting. — The simplest form of log. Saddif grafting is that shown in Fig. no, in which '^"'•^ the two parts are simply cut across diagonally and laid together. The parts are held only by the string, which, together with the wax, is applied in the same way as upon the whip-graft. Splice-graft- ing is frequently used upon soft or tender wood which will not admit of splitting. It is adapted only to small shoots. Veneer-grafting. — Fig, in shows a style of graft- ing which is much used, particularly for ornamen- tals and for rare stocks which are grown in pots. An incision is made upon the stock just through the bark and about an inch long (A^ Fig. in ), the bit of ^'(\H)''^ bark being renroved by means of a downward slop- ing cut at its base. The base of the cion is cut off obliquely, and up(jn the longest side a portion of bark no. splice- 114 GRAFTAGE. is remuved, corresponding to tlie portion taken from the stock. The little ton:_;-ue of bark on the stock covers the base of tlie cion when it is set. The cion is tied tightly to tile stock ( /?, Fig. Ill), usually with raftia. This method of grafting makes no incision into the wood, and all wounded surfaces are completely covered by the matching of the cion and stock. (See Fig. S3, page 88, and compare it with the picture of a whip-graft union in Fig. S4, page 89. ) It is not necessary, there- fore, to wa.x over the wounds, as a rule. If used in the open, however, wa.x should be used. The parts grow together uni- formly and quickly, making a solid and perfect union, as shown at D. So far as the union of the piarts is concerned, this is probably the ideal method of grafting. This meth- rfe od, which is nothing "Alt the side-graft of the English garden- ers with the most important addition of a longer tongue on the stock, is kudun liy various names, but it is oftenest called veneer- gr,ifting in this country. \'eneer-gr,ifting is employed mostly from November to Alirch, upon potted plants. .Stocks which are grown out- doors are potted in the early fall and carried o\'er in a cool house or ]Mt. The cinn is a|)plied an indi or two above the surfice of the soil, and the stock need not be headed back until the cion has united. (See Fig. 112.) Both dormant A B C ///. Ven''er-graftiyig (xVj)- VENEER AND SIDE-GRAFTS. 115 and growing cions are used. All plants in full sap must be placed under a frame in the house, in which they can be almost entirely buried with sphagnum, not too wet, and the house must be kept cool and rather moist until the cions are well established. Some species can be transferred to the open border or to nursery rows in the spring, but most plants which are grafted in this way are handled in pots during the follow- -^ing season. Rhododendrons, Ja- panese maples and many conilers are some of the plants which are multi- plied by veneer-grafting. .Such plants are usually laid upon their sides in ^^ fi'ames (Fig 47) and covered with moss tor several days, or until healing begins to take place. This method, when used with hardy or tender |)Iants, gives a great ad- vantage in much experi- fiter gtajt (\'") mental work, because the stock is no at all injured by a failure, and can be used over again many times, perhaps even in the same season ; and the n - nipulation is simple, and easily acquireu by inexperienced hands. Side-grafting. — There are various methods of inserting a cion into the side of a stock without cutting off the stock. One of the best styles is shown in Fig. 113. The example upon the right shows the cion set into an oblique cut in tlie stock, and that upon the left Sid,-:^i aJL i.n'ji ows the li")wt part of a thin-bladed chisel, with a bent shank, used for Ii6 GRAFTAGE. making the incision. An ordinary chisel or a lerish the following winter. Professional grafters usually divide their men into three 126 GRAFTAGE. gangs, — one to do the cutting of the stubs, one to set the cions, and one to apply the wax. The cions are all whit- tled Ijefore the grafter enters the tree. They are then usu- ally moistened by dipping into a pail of water, and are carried in a high side-pocket in the jacl^et. The handiest mallet is a simple club or billy, a foot and half long, hung over the wrist by a loose soft cord (Fig. 130). This is brought into the palm of the hand by a swinging motion of the forearm. This mallet is always in place, never drops from the tree, and is not in the way. The knife shown in Fig. 120 is com- ■ monly used. A downward stroke of the mallet drives the knife into the tree, and the return upward motion strikes the knife on the outer end and removes it. Another downward motion drives in the wedge. The sharpened nails and sticks commonly pictured as wedges in cleft-grafting are useless for any serious work. The common style of grafting-knife sold by seedsmen, comprising a thin, broad blade set in a hea\-y back-piece, is also of little use. The blade is too thin to split the stub. The various combined implements which have been devised to facilitate cleft- grafting are usually impracticable in commercial grafting. It is very important that the cleft-graft should be kept constantly sealed up until all tlie wounded surfaces are com- pletely covered witli the healing tissue. Old wood never heals. Its power of growth is completed. If a limb of an apple tree a half inch or more in diameter is cut off, the heart or core of the wound will be found to be incapaljle of healing itself It is covered over by the callus tissue which rolls in from the cambium underneath the bark. The wound becomes hermetically sealed by the new tissue. In the meantime, the wound should be kept antiseptic by some dressing, like wa.\ or paint, to prevent decay. In cleft- 130. Grafting- mallet (Xl-io). HEALING OF GRAFT WOUNDS. 127 grafts, the surfaces should be covered with wax every year until they are closed in by the new tissue. In most in- stances, the wax will loosen during the first season, and sometimes it falls off. The character of the healing process is well depicted in Figs. 131, 132, 133, In Fig. 131 is shown a yearling graft of apple. The strip of wax along the side of the cleft is seen to have split with the enlargement of the branch, and the cleft has filled up with tissue and is now safe from infection of disease or rot. The roll of healing tis- sue upon the i end of the ^ stub is seen about the bor- der of the wound. This tissue has not yet covered up the cleft across the end of the stub, and this cleft, if ex- posed to the weather, is a fertile place for the start- ing of decay, for it docs not unite except along the sides of the stub beneath the bark. When this stub is split through, following the cleft, we may readily distinguish the location of the healing tissues. Fig. 132. The ends of the cions are at e, and they are now simply inactive and nearl}' lifeless bits of wood. The new or healing tissue has been built up on the outward side of the cions. On the left, this deposition of new tissue may be traced as far down as H, whilst it is thick and heavy at E and above. The whole interior portion of the stub, represented by the dark shad- ing, is dead tissue, which will soon begin a rapid process of 128 GRAFTAGE. decay unless it is well protected from the weather, the old stub becomes her- metically sealed by the re- parative tissue. Fig. 133 shows a section of an apple graft nearly fifty years old. The original stub, about an inch in diameter, is seen in the center, the end of it entirely free from the enclosing tissue. It is a dead piece of wood, a foreign body pre- served in the heart of the tree. The depth of the old cleft or split is traced in the heavily shaded portion. When this section was made, the cores of the old cions were still found in the cleft and the grafting-wa.\ — faithfully laid on a half century ago— still adhered to the end of the stub, underneath the mass of tis- sue which had piled it- self over the old wound. „ ^ , ^,., IJ3 The stub 13T split Cleft-gralting through the cleft, and seen '. fyom the opposite side. put to \Tiri- iius Other uses than the top-grafting (if old trees. It is in common use on soft and fleshy stocks, as cactuses, :ind various fleshy roots. Fig. 134 shows a cleft-graft on cactus. The cion is held in place with a pin or cactus spine, and it is then bound \v\\\\ raffia or other cord. Wax- ing is not necessary. A similar graft is often made on peony roots. The cleft in the thick pj. Section of an old cleft- graft on au apple tree. BARK-GRAFTING. I2g root is cut with a knife, and the stock is bound up se- curely, usually with wire, as cord, unless waxed, rots off too quickly. Wax is not used, as the graft is buried to the top bud. The peony is grafted in summer. Dahlias are often grafted in the same fashion, although some operators prefer, in such fleshy subjects, to cut out a section from the side of the ' stock to receive the cion, rather than to make a cleft, much as in the process of inlaying illustrated in Fig. ii6. Hollyhocks, ipomeas, gloxinias and other thick-rooted plants may be similarly treated. Bark-grafting. — A style of grafting suited to large trees is shown in Fig. 135. The stock is not cleft, but the cions are pushed down between the bark and wood. The cions must be cut very thin, so that they will not break the bark on the stock. Fig. 136 represents a good style of cion. It is cut to a shoulder upon either side. Several cions can be placed in a single stub, and as no splitting is necessary, it is a useful method for very large limbs. It is especially useful in repairing trees when very large branches are broken off. The broken stub is sawn off smooth, and a dozen or more cions may be set around it. Only a few of them should be allowed to remain after the wound has been healed. Bark-grafting can be performed to advantage only when the bark peels readily. The cions should be held in place by a tight bandage, as seen in Fig. 135, and then wax should be applied in essentialh' the same manner as for cleft-grafting. This is sometimes called crown-grafting. A special form of bark-grafting is sometimes emploj'ed for covering girdles about the base of an old tree, made by mice, gophers or rab- ijs Bark- bits. The edges of the bark are trimmed, and ■«■''°-^''"i'''''•-'3'■ cions are cut a couple of inches longer than the width of the 130 GRAFTAGE. girdle, and they are sharpened at both ends. One end is inserted under the bark below the girdle and the other above it. The cions are placed close together entirely around the tree. The two ends are held firmly in place by tying, and the line of union is then waxed over. This opera- lion is said to be necessary to keep up the connection be- tween the root and the top, but this is in most cases an error, unless the girdle e.xtends into the wood. A good dressing of wax or clay, held on with stout bandages, is usually much better than the grafting. This method of grafting is sometimes, but errone- ously, called inarching. A complete bark girdle made during the spring or early summer will usually heal over readily if it is well bandaged ; and in some cases even the bandage is not necessary. Herbaceous-grafting. — In the preceding pages, the discussions have had to do with cions which are dormant or at least well hardened, and with stocks which contain more or less hard woody substance. But herbaceous shoots can be grafted with ease. All such plants as genmiums, begonias, coleuses and chrysanthemums can be made to bear two or more varieties upon the same individual. Al- /j'j- most any style of grafting can be employed, but bark- the veneer, cleft and saddle-grafts are preferred. *'''".{''".? Shoots should be chosen for stocks which are rather firm, or in the condition f(jr niakmg good cuttings. The cions should lie in a similar condition, and they may be taken from the tips of branches or made of a section of a branch. The union should be bound snugly with raffia, and the plant set in a propagating-frame (Fig. 47 illustrates a good one), where it mast be kept close for a few days. It is not necessary, in most cases, to use wax, and upon some tender stocks the wax is injurious. Moss may be bound about the graft, but unless the union is first thoroughly cov- ered by the bandage, roots may start into the moss and the parts may fail to unite. The growing shoots of shrubs and SEED- AND CUTTING-GRAFTING. 131 trees can also be grafted, but the operation is rarely employed. In various coniferous trees (as pines and spruces) the young shoots are sometimes cleft or saddle- grafted in May, the parts being well bandaged with waxed muslin or raffia, and shaded with paper bags. The walnut and some other trees which do not work readily are some- times treated in this manner. A little known species of herbaceous-grafting is the join- ing of parts of fruits. It is easily performed upon all fleshy fruits like tomatoes, apples, squashes and cucumbers. When the fruit is half or more grown, one-half is cut away and a similar half from another fruit is applied. Better results follow if the severed side of the parent or stock fruit is hollowed out a little, so as to let the foreign piece set into the cavity. The edges of the epidermis of the stock are then tied up closely against the cion by means of bass or raffia. The two parts are securely tied together, but no wax is required. This operation succeeds best under glass, where conditions are uniform, and where winds do not move the fruits. Even leaves may be used as stocks or cions. Any such succulent and jiermanent leaves as those of the house- leeks, crassula, and the like, may have young shoots worked upon them, and leaves whicli are used as cuttings can often be made lo grow on other plants. Seed-grafting. — A novel kind of grafting has been de- scribed in France by Pieron, which consists in using a seed as a cion. This has been used upon the grape. A seed is dropped into a gimlet-hole made near the base of the vine while the sap is rising in the spring. The seed ger- minates, and after a time the plantlet unites with the stock. Cutting-grafting. — Cuttage and graftage may be com- bined in various ways. Cuttings of plants which root with difficulty are s' lands need fertil- izing. Nitrogen is needed in comparatively large amounts. This is the element which chiefly conduces to strong growth. It is also the one which is most rapidly augmented by the addition of humus and the improvement of the physical con- dition of the soil, as recommended above. A\'hen nursery stock is making a poor grow th. the grower should first see that the tillage of the soil is made as thorough and perfect as possible, in order to supply additional plant food and to pre- serve the soil niijisture. He may then add nitrogen in the form of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, sowing them at the rate of :oo tii 400 lbs. to the acre. The appli- cation should be made in spring rotitable, for there has been litttle earnest effort to arri\"e at any just or exact method of comparison. The disputants have too often dealt in generalized statements, and it must be said that preju- dice, and the desire to ad\ocate the ]iarticular stock which one is growing, are not unknown to these discussions, h'lome experiments have been tried for the purpose of deter- mining the relative merits of the two methods of propaga- tion, but none of the experimenters seem to have really analyzed the subject or to have arrived at any truthful ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. I49 conclusions. We must approach the subject in an analyti- cal spirit if we are to hope for useful results. Before proceeding to a discussion of the comparative effects of budding and root-grafting, it is essential that cer- tain definitions be clearly fixed in the mind. The budding of fruit-stocks in the nursery is performed in the summer time upon stocks which were set in the spring, as fully explained on pages 94 to 105. These stocks are trimmed or "dressed" before they are set in the nursery. Root- grafting, as already explained (See Figs. 103, 104), is the setting of a cion upon a root. If the entire root is used, the operation is known as whole-root-grafting. In this case, the cion is set at the crown and the root is dressed in much the same way that the stock is dressed when it is to be used for budding. If only a portion of the root is used as stock (as in Fig. 103), the operation is known as piece-root-graft- ing. It is this particular operation which is ordinarily understood when people speak of root-grafting. It is ap- parent that the various pieces made of the root may not be comparable. The top piece includes the crown, at which point the cion is inserted. The lowest piece comprises the tip, or smallest, and therefore weakest, portion of the root. Ordinarily, about three pieces are made of a root in the root-grafting of apple stocks. It is evident that there are two distinct problems con- cerned in the consideration of the comparative merits of budded and root-grafted trees. One has to do with the comparison of the budding with the grafting, and the other with the different methods of trimming or cutting the stocks. It is perfectly well known that, in general, budding and grafting are equally efficacious methods of propagation, other things being equal. In other words, the mere fact that one tree comes from a bud and another from a cion should make no necessary difference in the value of the tree. All the characteristic differences between budded and root- grafted trees are due to the methods of trimming the stocks, and not to the actual methods of propagation. K ISO GRAFTAGE. It is indisputable that there is great difference in the root system between the ordinary budded tree and the ordinary root-grafted tree. The roots of the root-grafted tree, as it leaves the nursery, are comparatively shallow and horizontal, and are generally prongy and strongly developed on one side or another of the tree. It is well known, of course, that different varieties of apples develop a different root system in the nursery row, but the same variety ordi- narily has a very different root development when propa- gated by budding and by common root-grafting. The writer has seen this difference so uniformly for so many years, and upon such an extent and variety of stock, both east and west, that he has no hesitation in positively affirming that, as generally grown, the root .system of butlded trees 's unlike that of root-grafted trees. This difference in root development pro- ceeds from the method of cutting the stock. In other words, if the pieces of roots were budded they would undoubtedly develop the same sys- tem of roots that they do when grafted. Tht philosophy of it will become apparent upon a moment's reflection. The short piece of root has fewer side rootlets than the whole or long root. It is these side rootlets which develop into the main branches of the root system. The root system of the piece-njol must, therefore, be shallower at first start than that of the whcjle root, because the a.xis is shorter. Moreover, these side rootlets do not develop simultaneously upon all sides of the main axis. They are scattered along the axis. 144 New roots A section or piece of the root may contain o" ""' '■"'ioJ -'a piece root. rootlets only on one or two sides of the axis, and as these rootlets grow the system becomes one-sided. There is still .another reason for the prongy and one-sided character of the root-system of piece-roots. The piece of ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 151 root is essentially a cutting. Every gardener knows that roots seldom start symmetrically from all sides of the end of a culling. Fig. 144 (from a photograph) shows young roots springing off from the end of a cutting. All three of them start from nearly a conmion point. It is a one- sided or unsymmetrical system. iMg. 145 shows two root-grafts, drawn from life, as they had grown at the expira- tion of two months after they were planted in the nursery. They show the same pecu- liarities of root development as the cutting i-loes in I'ig, 144. The reader now desires to know why the same one-sided method of root growth tloes not take place at the end of the root in the budded tree, for these stocks are dressed or trimmed— that is, tlie tips of the roots are cut off— before they are set in the nursery row. The whole question turns upon how much the roots of the stocks are cut back. If only the very tip is cut off, and there is a strong ro')t development aljove it, this tip will simply heal over and develop no side roots, or else what side roots do develop will be very weak. This is practically what takes place in the A,5. ionnir >ootg,a/!s. common treatment of budding stock. If, however, the root were very severely cut back, the same development would no doubt start from the tip of the budded stock as from that of the root-grafted stock. Fig. 146, from life, sho«'S how this may occur. The stock on the left is budded, that on the right grafted. Both were severely headed-in (cut off at T), and both have developed prongy roots. The budded stock was much longer than the other, however, and, therefore, its root system is stronger. I5Z GRAFTAGE. The whole question, therefore, is one of comparative len:,'tli and strength of riots (or stocks). A whole-rooted tree should be stronger and have a more symmetrical root system, at a gi\en age, than a piece- rooted tree. Yet there have been frauds comnritted in the name of whole- rooted trees. As a matter of fact, there can be no perfectly whole-rooted trees , unless the bud or cion is set upon a seedling stock which stands in its ;inal position, for some of the main axis is broken off in the process of digging. Yet, if stock is well dug, this shortening-in of the tip of the root is so slight as to be practically of no account. If the pieces of roots are very short in the making of root-grafts, the graft has too little pi 'wcr to enable it to make a strong growth the first year. It is a very common practice to cut oS the entire top of the root-grafted tree at the end of th-e first year, in order to get a strring and straight body the following year. This practice is perfectly justifiabl e only that the grower counts the age of his tree from the date of the cut-back, and not from the date of the grafting, grafted trees are very likely to make such a short growth the first season that if the terminal bud should be winter-killed, the tree will branch too low, or if a y/,-. Koot-gra/l, headed back ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 153 leader starts from a lateral bud the body will be crooked. A good nurseryman always wants his first season's growth to be high enough to form the entire body of the tree. If this body is obliged to grow on from its terminal bud the second season, the annual ring can be plainly seen on the body — an indisputable mark of age, which the customer will be quick to discern. Fig. 147, from life, shows a com- mon method of dealing with root-grafted trees. The union is at A, and the top of the original cion at D. At the end of the first season (or the following spring), the tree was cut X'^'V 146. Ben Davis trees, budded and root-grafted. back to c. Tlie nurseryman will count the age of his tree from the point c. At the same actual age, and grown in the same place, the budded tree is nearly always larger than the root-grafted tree, as ordinarily grown. The longer and better the piece of root upon which the graft is made, however, tlie less the difference will be. The illustrations, all from actual and typical trees, show some of these differences. Fig. 14S shows si.x Ben Davis apple trees grown in a New York nursery. The two trees upon the left are budded. The other four are root-grafted. The two middle trees had been transplanted, Init the two upon the right stood where the grafts were planted. It will be seen how completely the transplanting has broken up the tendency to tap-roots and 154 Graftage. prongs, and has developed a more symmetrical root system. The root system of the budded trees is deeper and more symmetrical because the stocks or roots were longer. Figs. 149 and 150 each shou-, beginning at the left, Fallawater, Golden Russet, Hubbardston and Gravenstein apple trees. 1^0. J\0'jt-i:i ajicd trees. Those in Fig. 149 are first-class three-year budded trees from an eastern nursery. Those in Fig. 150 are first-class three-year root-grafted trees from a western mn"sery. The disparity in sizes of short-piece-root trees and budded trees of like actual age, is well seen in Figs. 151 and 152. They ROOT-GRAFTED AND BUDDED TREES. 155 are Mann apples. In Fig. 151, the piece-root-grafts, upon tlie left, are two years from the graft ; the buds, upon the right, are of like age. In Fig. 152, the piece-root-grafts, upon the left, are three years old, and the buds, upon the right, are two years. The different root systems of the two are apparent in each case. All these comparisons are not made for the purpose of showing that root-grafts are inferior to buds, but simply that they are different from them. Yet, the author is convinced that very many of the root-grafted trees are made with such short and weak pieces of roots that the trees are dis- tinctly inferior. The practice of root-grafting fruit trees has almost disappeared from the east. East- ern buyers generally desire strong, heavy trees, with deep and full root systems ; and there is an opinion — though not resting upon definite experiments — that the deep-rooted budded trees enter deeper into the ground and make longer-lived trees than the root- grafted samples. The entire question of the ulti- mate merits of the two classes of trees rests, therefore, more upon the way in wliich the stocks are trimmed and handled when the propagating is done, than upon the' mere fact of their being budded or root-grafted. Root-grafting has distinct merits in the northwest, where own-rooted trees are de- sired (see Fig. 104), and it cheap- ens propagation ; but as pro]ia- gating is ordinarily done in our nurseries, the author is distinctly of the opinion that, as a rule, the budded apple 75/. Piece-root-grafts and buds, two years old. 156 GRAFTAGE. tree is a stronger and better tree, as it leaves the nur- sery, thian tire root-grafted tree is when of tlie same age and when grown under the same conditions. He is equally convinced, on the other hand, however, that it is possible to grow as good trees by root-grafting as by budding. Note. — The student, who may desire to pursue the subject of t^raftage further, should p ocure Charles Baltet's "L'Art de Greffer." There is an English edition. /5? Piece-root'^raft5 and buds, two and three years respective/y. CHAPTER VI. THE NURSERY LIST. Aaron's Beard. See Hypericum. Abelia. Caprifoliace■ division of the roots. Antholyza, including Anisanlhus. Iridacar. Increased by seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe, in light soil, in a cool house. Here they will germi- nate the following spring, and will be fit to plant out in the summer of the same year. Also by offsets. Anthurium. Aroidea;. Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe in shallow, well-drained pans or pots filled with a compost of peat, loam, moss, broken crocks or charcoal, and clean sand. Cover lightly and place in a close, moist propagating case, where a temperature of 75° to 85° is maintained ; or the pots may be covered with bell-glasses. Keep the soil in a uniformly moist condition. Also increased by divisions, which should be made in January. Anthyllis ( Kidney Vetch). L.cguininosiC. Herbaceous perennials, increased by seeds or cuttings. The cuttings of most species will root in a pot of sandy soil, with a bell-glass over them, in a cool house or frame. Seed of the annuals should be sown in a warm, dry place in the open ground. Antirrhinum (Snapdragon). Scrophulariaceir. Increased by seeds sown in early spring or midsum- mer ; by cuttings, which should be taiien in September, when they will readily root in a coldframe, or under a hand-glass. Aphelandra. Acaiithace/r. Propagated by cuttings from half-ripened wood taken oft with a heel. Cut the base of each clean across ; in- sert an inch apart in pots of sandy soil, and plunge in a brisk bottom heat. 170 THE NURSERY LIST. Apios (Ground-Nut). I.eguniiiiosic. Propaijated by the tubers, or divisions of tliem ; also easily by seeds. Aplectrum (Putty-Root). Orcliidacccr . Increased by tiie bulb-like subterranean tubers ; also by seeds. A difficult plant to grow. Apocynum (Dog's Bane). Apocynacece. Propagated by seeds, suckers and divisions. The best time to divide is just as the plants are starting into growth in spring. Aponogeton. Naiadacea:. Increased rapidly by seeds and offsets. The seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, in pots plunged in water and covered with glass. Apple ( /;J(/;vij 3/a/iis). Rosacea". Standard apple stocks are grown from seeds, and dwarf stocks from mound layers. Apple seeds are either im- ported from P' ranee or are obtained from pomace. The P"rench seeds give what are technically known as i')-ad stocks, the word c>-ab being used in the sense of a wild or inferior apple. The yearling stocks themselves are mi- ported from I'rance in great numbers. It has been sup- posed that French crab stocks are hardier and more \ ig orous than ours, but this opinion is much less common than formerly, and the foreign stocks are not so popular now as the domestic stocks. As a rule, nurserymen who grow trees do not raise apple stocks. Stock growing is largely a separate business, and in this country it is an important industry in Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, and other plains states. The chief source of apple seeds at the present time is the pomace from cider mills. The "cheese" of pomace is broken up, and if the material is dry enough it may be run through a large sieve to remove the coarser jiarts. The seeds are then removed by washing. X'arious devices are in use for washing them out. They all pro- ceed upon the f ict that the pomace will rise in water and the seeds sink. Some use a tub or common tank, which is tilted a little to allow the water to flow over the side. Others emplo\' boxes some 7 or 8 feet long, 4 feet wide and a foot deep, the lower end of which is only 11 inches deep to allow the escape of the water. This APPLE. 171 Apple, continued. box IS set upon benches, and a good stream of water is carried nito it at the upper end. A bushel or two ot pomace is emptied m at a time, and it is broken and stirred with a tbrl< or shovel. When the seeds are liber- ated, they fall to the bottom and the refuse runs over the lower end Another bo,x is provided with several cleats, at intervals of about a foot, and the ends are left open. The box is set at an angle, and the seeds are caught behind the cleats. Seeds must not stand long in the pomace pile, or they will be seriously injured. Nursery- men like to secure the pomace as soon as it is taken from the press. As soon as the seeds are collected, they should be spread U|)on tables or boards, and should be frequently turned until perfectly dry. They may then be stored in boxes in slightly damp sand or sawdust, or in powdered charcoal, and kept in a cool and dry ]:)lace until spring. Or if they are to be sown immediately, they need not be dried, but simply mixed with enough dry sand to absorb the water so as to make them easy to handle. Seeds should not be allowed to become hard and dry through long exposure to the air, or they will germinate unevenly. Apple seeds procured at the seed st(jres ;ire often worth- less because of this neglect. Very dry seeds can some- times be grown, however, by subjecting them to repeated soakings, and then sprouting in a gentle hotbed or mild forcing-house. Change the water on the seeds every day, and at the end of a week or ten days mi.x with sand and place in a thin layer in the hotbed. Stir frequently to pre- vent molding. When the seeds begin to sprout, sow them in the open ground. This operation, which is sometimes called pipping, may be performed in a small way near the kitchen stove. Seeds are sometimes "pipped" be- tween moist blankets. (See also page 17.) When sowing is done in the fall, the seeds may be sown in the pomace. This entails extra labor in sowing, but it saves the labor of washing. This practice gives good results if the pomace is finely broken, and it is now com- mon among nurserymen. In loose and well-drained soils, sowing is undouljtedly best perf(jrmed in the fall, just as early as the seeds are ready. But upon land which holds much water, and which heaves with frost or contains much clay, spring sowing is preferable. In spring, the seeds should be sown just as soon as the ground can be worked. 172 THE NURSERY LIST. Apple, continued. If the stocks are to be cultivated with a liorse, the rows should be 3 or 3 '2 tect apart. Sonic growers sow in nar- row drills and some in broad ones. The broad drills are usually 6 to lo inches wide. The earth is removed to the depth of 2 or 3 inches, if it is loose and in good condition, the seed is scattered thinly on the surface and the earth hoed back over them. If the ground is likely to bake, the seeds should not be sown so deep ; and it is always well, in such cases, to apply some very light and clean mulch. The plants should be well cultivated during the season, and they should attain a height of 6 to 12 inches or more the first year. If the plants come thickly, they must be thinned out. In the fall of the first year the seedlings should be large enough to be dug and sold to general nurserymen. Sometimes the poorest plants are allowed to stand another year, but they are usually so scattering that they do not ])ay for the use of the land, and they should be transplanted the same as the larger stock, or the weakest ones may be thrown awa\". The stocks are dug" with a plow or tree-digger and lieeled-in closely, so that the leaves "sweat" and fall off. The plants are then stored in sand, moss or sawdust in a cellar. BeRire they are planted, the tops are cut off near the crown, usually with a hatchet on a block. The stocks are then graded into budding and grafting sizes. The general nurserymen buy these stocks in fall or early winter. Those which are root- grafted are worked during late winter, l)\n those intended for budding, or which must be grown another seasiin before they attain sullicient size tor working, are heeled -in, sometimes being "dressed" (see Chapter \'); in the spring they are set in nursery rows, about a foot apart in the row (p>age 146I. The nurseryman reckons the age ot his tree from the top or graft, rather than from the time the seed was sown. Seedling raising is usuall_\' conducted by men who make it a business, and who supply the general nurserymen of the country. It is largely practiced at the west, where the deep and strong soils produce a rapid growth. The year- ling trees are graded by the western growers into about four lots : "E.xtras," or those at least '4inch in diameter at the crown, and having 12 inches of both top and root; these are used mostly as budding stocks the next season. " ConmK.ms," those between yV and '+ nn'b at the crown, and having 8 inches of root ; these are used for immediate APPLE. 173 Apple* concluded. root- grafting. "Second-class/' those from ^,^, to {\- incli at the crown, and "third-class," or all those under ,-,,. The last two classes must be grown in the field for one or two seasons before they can be worked to advantage. Dwarf stocks are mostly obtained from mound-layering. The common stock for dwarfing is the Paradise apple, a dwarf variety of the common apple species (Pyrus Mains). This variety rarely attains a height of more than 4 feet, A larger or freer stock is the Doucin, also a variety of Pynis l\faliis, which will produce an engrafted tree inter- mediate in size between that given by the Paradise and free or common stocks. This is little used in this country. To obtain stools for mound-layering, the tree, when well estalilished, is cut off within 4 or 6 inches of the ground in spring, and during the summer several shoots or sprouts will arise. The ne.xt year the stool is covered by a moimd, and by autumn the layers are ready to take off. Sometimes, when stocks are rare, mound-layering is per- formed during the first summer, before the young shoots have hardened, but good stocks are not obtained by this method. Common green layering is sometimes practiced the first year, but it is not in favor. The dwarf stocks, in common with all apple stocks, may be sparingly propa- gated by root-cuttings and by hard-wood cuttings. Ajiple stocks are either grafted or budded. Root-graft- ing is the most commcjn, es|)ecially at the west, where long cions are used in order to secure own-rooted trees. (See Figs. 103, 104.) Budding is gaining in favor eastward and southward ; it is performed during August and early September in the northern states, or it may be begun on strong stocks in July by using buds which ha\'e been kept on ice. Stocks should be strong enough to be budded the same year they are transplanted, but the operation is sometimes deferred until the second summer. Stocks which cannot be worked until the second year are un- profitable, especially on valuable land. For root-grafting, strong one-year-old roots are best, but two-year-olds are often used. (See pages 148 to 156.) In common practice, the root is cut into two or three pieces of 2 to 3 inches each, but stronger trees are ob- tained, at least the first year or two, by using the whole root and grafting upon the crown. The lowest piece is usually small and weak, and is generally discarded. The apple is easily top-grafted and top-budded. (See Chapter \^ For grades of trees, see page 142. ) 174 THE NURSERY LIST. Apricot [Primus Armeniaca, P. dasycarpa, P. Jniiiie). Rosacea. The apricot thrives upon a variety of stocks. Apricot stoclpagated by cuttings of small, firm side shoots, which will root, in April or August, under a hand-glass in sandy soil. Artichoke (Cviiara Siolyiniis). Composi/(f. Grown fnim S(-(-\ suckers, layers and cuttings of inature wood. Layers are usually allowed to remain two years. Rare sorts are sometimes grafted on common stocks. Jarkeria species of Epidcudrum). OrchiJaiar . Prop.igated by divisions made just before new growth coinmences. See under Orchids. BARLERIA BEEFWOOD. 183 Barleria. Acanthacece. Propagated by cuttings made of the young wood, and placed in a compost of loam and peat witii a little rotten dung, under a bell-glass, in stove temperature with bottom heat. Barrenwort. See Epimedium. Bartonia aurea. See Mentzelia. Basil ( Ocyvium Basilicum and O. minimum). Labiata:. Seeds, sown in a hotbed or outdoors. Basswood. See Tilia. Batatas. See Ipom£ea and Sweet Potato. Batemannia. Orchidacea:. Increased by divisions and offsets. Bauhinia {Mountain Ebony i. Legnminosa;. Propagated by cuttings, which should be taken when the wood is neither very ripe nor very young. The leaves must be dressed off, and the cuttings planted in sand under a glass in moist heat. Also by seeds. Bayberry. See Myrica. Bean. Lcgiiiiiinoscs. Seeds ; sow only after the weather is thoroughly settled for outdoor culture. Lima beans should not be sown till a week or ten days after it is safe to sow the common kinds. Bean Caper. See Zygophyllum. Bean, Sacred or Water. See Nelumbo and Nymphaja. Bear's Grass. See Yucca. Beaucarnea. Liliacea:. Increased chiefly by seeds, which have been imported from their native country. By cuttings, when obtainable. Beaufortia. BIyrlacea:. Propagated by cuttings of half-ripened shoots ; place in a sandy soil under a glass, with very little heat. Beech. .See Fagus. Beefwood. See Casuarina. 184 THE NURSERY LIST. Beet (Bc/a vulgaris'). Chetiopodiacea:. Seeds, sown very early, before frosts cease for the early crop. Befaria. Ericacccr. Propagated by cuttings of young wood, placed in sandy soil, in gentle heat. Begonia. Bcgoniacca:. Increased l)y seeds, well ripened before they are gath- ered, and kept very dry until sown. For the successful raising of begonias, it is necessary to sow the seeds in pans or pots of well-drained, light, sandy soil, which should be well watered before the seeds are sown. The seeds should not be covered with soil, or they may fail to germinate. Place a pane of glass over the pans (Fig. 2), and set in a warm house or frame, where a temperature of about 65° can be maintained, and shade from tlie sun. As soon as the plants are large enough they should be pricked off into pans of light leaf-mold soil, in which they may remain until large enough to be placed singly in pots. By divisions of the rhizomes. Also increased by cut- tings, which strike freely in pots of sand and leaf-mold, and placed on a bottom heat of about 70°. Where large quantities are required, a bed of cocoanut fiber in a stove or propagating-frame may be used, and in this the cut- tings may be planted, and remain until well rooted. Leaf cuttings of the Re.x or foliage types are in common use. They succeed best when laid on sand or cocoanut fiber, and shaded from bright sunlight. Select old, well-ma- tured leaves, and make an incision with a sharp knife across the principal nerves, on the tmder side. They should then be placed on the sand or fiber, and held down by means of a few pieces of crock. Under this treatment plantlets will form on the lower ends of the nerves of each section of the leaf, and these, when large enough, may be removed from the bed and potted. Fan-shaped pieces of leaves are often used. Leaf cut- tings of begonia are described and figured in Chapter IV. (Figs. 78, 79, 80.) Species like B. divcrsifolia, etc., may be propagated by the tubers which form in the a.xils of the leaves. B. phylloinaniaca produces plantlets on the leaves and stems, and these may be removed and han- dled like small seedlings. Tuberous Begonias (By E. G. Lodemani. —Tuberous BEGONIA — BENTHAMIA. IO5 Begonia, continued. species may be propagated by seeds, cuttings, and by divisions of the tubers. The seeds should be sown early in spring, and the seedlings pricked off and shifted as described for the evergreen or shrubby sections. Cut- tings of the young, rapidly-growing shoots, if taken as soon as the plants are 4 to 6 inches high, will form good tubers by fall. Cuttings made while the plants are in fiower rarely produce tubers of much value ; B. Bolivicii- sis, B. Sedi;ni,3.ndi B. Veitchii are particularly apt to fail in this respect. The cuttings should be from 2 to 4 inches in length, the lower cut being just beneath a joint ; remove one or two of the lowest leaves and insert singly near the edge of thumb-pots filled with a soil com- posed of about etjual parts sand, leaf-mold and loam. Place in a cool, shaded position, applying water only to prevent flaggin.g. Dividing the tubers is an unsatisfac- tory method of propagation, except in the case of B. Socotrana. The tubers should be cut before active growth begins, so that each part shall have an eye or crown. They are then treated as separate tubers. Be- gonias which have not been improved are most easily and rapidly propagated from seed ; the named or im- proved varieties are best increased by cuttings. Belamcanda, including Pardanthus (Blackberry Lily). Iri- dacccr. Seeds, division, and cuttings of young growth. The Blackberry Lily {B. Chincnsis) propagates freely by divi- sion and by seeds. Bellflower. See Campanula. Bellis (Daisy). CompositcE. Increased by seeds, which should be sown in early spring. By division after flowering, each crown making a separate plant. The soil must be pressed firmly about them. Bellwort. See Uvularia. Bengal Quince. See yEgle. Bent Grass. See Agrostis. Benthamia. Comae ecc. Propagated by seeds sown when ripe in a cool house, or by layering in autumn. By cuttings, and by grafting on the dogwood. l86 THE NURSERY LIST. Benzoin. See Lindera. Berberidopsis. Bcrbei-idaceo". Propagated b\' seeds in spring, by layering in autumn, or by young cuttings in spring. Berberis. See Barberry. Berchemia. Rhamnaceis. Propagated by layering the young shoots. By ripened cuttings, and slips of the roots planted under glass. Bertolonia. ^TelastomaceiT. Propagated by seeds and cuttings. Bessera. Liliacar. Propagated by offsets. Betonica. See Stachys. Betula (Birch;. Cupulifcrcr. Increased by seeds, which must be so«ti as soon as gathered, or else stratified. By g;rafting or budding upon seedling stocics of the common kinds ; the former should be done in spring or late winter, and the latter in summer when the buds are ready. ' Cion-budding (Fig. 115 i is a good method. Bignonia (Trumpet Flower). Bignoniaiiu-. Increased by seeds or layering, or, in early spring, by cuttings made from good strong shoots, with two or three joints. Place cuttings of tender sorts in a well-drained pot of sandy soil, under a bell-glass, in bottom heat. Also by seeds. B. radica7is propagates readily- from root cuttings. Billardiera (Apple Berrj-). Pittosporaccc^. Increased by seeds, and by cuttings placed in a pot of sandy soil, under a bell-glass, in gentle heat. Billbergia. Bromeliacecr. Propagated by suckers, which are taken from the base of the plant after flowering, when they have attained a good size. The best method to adopt is as follows : Hold the sucker in the hand and gently twist it off the stem ; next, trim the base by the removal of a few of the lower leaves, and then insert each sucker separately in a small pot, in sharp soil. A bottom heat of about 80° will BILLBERRY BLADDER-NUl*. 187 greatly facilitate new root growth ; failing this, they will root freely in the temperature of a stove, if placed in a shaded position f^ir two or three weeks, after which they will bear increased light and sunshine during the latter part of the day. Billberry. See Vacciniuin. Biota. See Thuya. Birch. See Betula. Birthwort. See Aristolochia. Bitter Sweet. See Celastrus and Solanum. Blackberry (I-iubus vi//osiis and vars.). Rosaccer. New varieties are obtained from seeds, which may be sown as soon as they are cleaned from the ripe fruit, or which may be stratified until the next spring. If the soil is in prime condition, fall sowing is preferajjle. Varieties are multiplied by suckers and by root cuttings. The suckers spring up freely about the old plants, esjie- cially if the roots are broken by the cultivator ; but they have few fibrous roots, and are inferior. The best plants are obtained froin root cuttings (Fig. 62). Roots from one-fourth to three-eighths inch in diameter are selected for this purpose. The roots are dug in the fall, cut into pieces an inch or two long, and stored until early spring. They may be buried in bo.xes of sand after the manner of stratified seeds, or stored in a cool cellar ; callusing pro- ceeds most rapidly in a cellar. The pieces are planted horizontally an inch or two deep, in Ijose, rich soil. It is best to iiut them in a frame and give them slight bottom heat, although they will grow if planted in the open in April or May, but the plants will make much less growth the first season. Some varieties do not strike quickly witliout bottom heat. When the variety is scarce, shorter and slenderer pieces of root may be used, but these de- mand bottom heat. The heat in the frames is usually sup- plied by manure, or the heat of the sun under the glass may be sufficient. In these frames the cuttings may be started in the north late in March, or some six or eight weeks before the plants can be set out-doors without pro- tection. When the weather has become somewhat set- tled, the plants may be planted out, and by fall they will be 2 to 3 feet high. See Dewberry. Bladder-nut. See Staphylea. l88 THE NURSERY LIST. Bladder Senna. See Colutea. Blandfordia. Liliacece. Propagated by seeds and offsets, or by division of the old plants, which must be tlone when repotting. Blazing Star. See Liatris. Bleeding Heart. See Dicentra. Bletia. Orchidacea. Propagated by divisions, which should be made after the plants have finished tjowering, or previous to their starting into growth. These are terrestrial, and their flat, roundish pseudo-bulbs are usually under ground. They bear division well, especially B. hyacinthina, which may be cut up into pieces consisting of a single pseudo- bulb, (See under Orchids.) Blood Flower. See Haemanthus. Blood-root. See Sanguinaria and Hcemodorum. Blueberry. See Vaccinium. Blue-eyed Grass. See Sisyrinchiuni. Blumenbachia. Loasacca-. Propagated by seeds sown in pots in sprin.g, and ])laced in a gentle heat. Bocconia. Papavcracccr. Some species grow well from seed. By young suckers, taken from established plants during summer. Cuttings taken from the a.xils of the large leaves during early sum- mer push freely, so that they will have plenty of roots before winter sets in. Root cuttings of B. cordala strike freely. Boltonia. Composilir . Increased by divisions of the root in spring. Seeds. Bomarea. Amaryllidacca:. Propagated by seeds, which may be sown in a warm house. Also increased by careful division of the under- ground stem. In making a division, it is necessary to observe that the part taken has some roots by which to live till new ones are formed. BOMBAX — BOUSSINGAULTIA. 189 Bombax (Silk Cotton Tree). Malvacccr. Plants raised from seeds brought from their native hab- itats make the best trees. Increased by cuttinijs, which will root readily if not too ripe. They should be taken off at a joint, and placed in sand under a bell-glass, in moist heat. Borago. Borraffinaceiz. Propagated by seeds sown from spring to autumn in any good garden soil. Also by divisions in spring, or by striking cuttings in a coldframe. Borassus. Paliiiacccc. Increased by seeds sown in a strong bottom heat. Boronia. Ru/actur. Increased by seed. By young cuttings, or those made from half-ripened wood. Place these in a thoroughly drained pot (jf sandy soil, with one inch of sand on the surface, and cover with a bell-glass. Borreria. Rubiacca-. Pnjpagated by cuttings. Those of the perermial kinds strike root readily in a light soil, in heat. The annual kinds require a similar treatment to other tender annuals. Boston Ivy, and Boston Vine. See Anipelopsis and Myrsi- phyllum. Boswellia (Olibanum Tree). Biirscracca:. Increased easily by cuttings in sand under a glass. Botrychium. See Ferns. Bouchea. I'erbcnacea;. Increased during spring by cuttings, placed in sand under a glass and in a gentle heat. Bougainvillea. Nyctaginacea;. Pnip.'igated by cuttings from the half-ripened wood. Place in sandy soil, in a brisk heat. Also grown hum root cuttings. Bouncing Bet. See .Saponaria. Boussingaultia (Madeira Vine). Chenopodiacccr. Ini Teased by seeds, and easily by means of the tuber- cles of the stem. Also by the tubers. Igd tHE NURSERY LlSf. Bouvardia. Rubiacec^. Generally propagated by root cuttings, which strike readily. Cuttings of shoots will also grow, if struck in heat. Bowlea. LiliacciT. Propagated by seeds or offsets. Box Elder. See Negundo. Box Thorn. See Lycium. Box Tree. See Buxus. Brachycome (Swan River Daisy). Composites. Propagateci by seeds sown in early spring, in a gentle hotbed, or they may be sown thinly outdoors, late in spring. Brahea. Palmacetr. Propagated by seeds in heat. Brassia. Orchidacecr. Increased by dividing the plant when growth has com- menced. (See under Orchids. ) Bravoa. Aiiiaiy/ZidaceiT. Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, and by off- sets in autumn. Bread Fruit. See Artocarpus. Bread Nut. See Brosimum. Bredia. JMelastomacca;. Increased by seeds, and by cuttings from the ripened shoots placed in sandy loam, under a hand-glass, in heat. Briza (Quaking Grass). Graminecr. Propagated by seeds, which may l)e sown in spring or in autiunn. Broccoli. See Cabbage. Brodiaa. L'liaci'u-. Increased by offsets, which should be left undisturbed with the parent bulbs till they reach a flowering state, when they may be divided and planted in autumn. BROMELtA — BRUNFELSIA. tgt Bromelia. Bromeliacetz. Some are propagated by seeds. All by cuttings in- serted in sand, in heat. Bromus. GraminecB. Increased by seeds sown outside in late summer or in spring, thinning out when necessary. Brongniartia. Leguminosa;. Increased by cuttings of the young shoots, which, if firm at the base, will root in sand under a bell-glass, in a cool house. Brosimum (Bread Nut). Uiiicacea;. Propagated by cuttings of ripe wood with their leaves on. Place in sand in moist heat. Broughtonia. Orchidace(X. Increased by dividing the plant. (See under Orchids. ) Broussonetia (Paper Mulberry). Uriicaceo". Propagated by seeds, sown when ripe or kept till the following spring ; and by suckers and cuttings of ripened wood, in a cool house. Browallia. Scrophulariacecs . Seeds. To have blooming plants for the holidays, they are propagated by seeds sown in late summer in pans or pots of hght, rich, sandy soil, and kept in a close frame or hand-light, where they can be shaded till germination takes place. Brownea. Leguminosa. Increased by cuttings from the ripened wood ; place in sand under a hand-glass, in moist heat. Brucea. Simarubacecu. Increased by cuttings from ripened wood, which will root freely in a pot of sand under a hand-glass, in mod- erate heat. Brugmansia. See Datura. Brunfelsia, Franciscea. Scrophulariacea;. Propagated by cuttings placed in sand under a bell-glass in moderate heat. When rooted, place in pots with a compost of loam, leaf-soil, peat and sand. ig2 THE NURSERY LIST. Brunsvigia. Amaryllidacea^, Increased by offsets of considerable size. They should be potted carefully in a mixture of sandy loam and peat, with ;;ood drainage, and kept tolerably warm and close until established ; water sparingly until root action has commenced. The best place for growing the offsets into a flowering size is on a shelf near the glass, in a tempera- ture of from 50° to 55°. Brussels Sprouts. See Cabbage. Bryonia. Ciicurbifacca. Propagated by seeds, or by divisions of the tuber. Cut- tings of the shoots will also strike (but with difficulty) in water. Bryophyllum. CrassulaciT. Propagated by cuttings ; or by simply laying the leaf on moist sand or moss, and at the indentations upon the inar- gin plantlets «ill appear. (See Fig. 77. ) Buceras. See Terminalia. Buckbean. See Menyanthes. Buckeye. See ^l^sculus. Bucklandia. Ilamaniclideo'. Increased by cuttings of ripened shoots placed in sandy loam under a hand-glass, in moderate heat. Water care- fully, for they are liable to rot off. Buckthorn. See Rhamnus. Buckwheat {Fagopynini csai/c?ifin>i antl F. Tatariciim). Polygonal ctr. Propagated by seeds. Buffalo Berry. See Shepherdia. Bugwort. See Cimicifuga. Bulbine. Liliaccce. The bulbous rooted species by offsets, and the herba- ceous sorts by suckers and divisions. Also by cuttings. Bulbocodium. LiHacccv. Increased by offsets in a rich, sandy loam. Take up the bulbs, di\ ide and replant them every second year, hand- ling in autumn and renewing the soil or planting in new positions. BULBOPHYLLUM BUXUS. Ig3 Bnlbophyllum, Anisopetaliim. Orcftidaccir. Propagated by division of the pseudo-bulbs. Bullrush. See Typha and Juncus. Bupleurum (Hare's Ear). Uinbcl/ifcrcr. The annuals by seeds sown in spring outdoors ; the herbaceous perennials may be increased by divisions made in autumn or spring, and the greenhouse species by cuttings matie in spring. Burchardia. Liliacctc. Propagated by olTsets or divisions made just previous to potting in spring. It is best to repot annuallv. (iood drainage should be allowed, and the jilant must not be potted too firmly. Burchellia. Rubiacccc. Increased by cuttings, not too ripe, ])lanted in sand and placed under a hand-glass, in a gentle heat. Burlingtonia. Orcliidacccr. Increased by dividing the plant. (.See under Orchids.) Burnet, or Poterium (San^s^uisorba). Rosacea;. Propagated bj' seeds and division. Burning Bush. See Euonymus. Bursera. Burscracccc. Propagated by cuttings placed under a bell-glnss, with bottom heat. Butcher's Broom. See Ruscus. Butomus (Flowering Rush). Alismaiccr. Increased by seeds, or by divisions of tlie roots m spring. Buttercup. See Ranunculus. Butternut. See Juglans. Butterwort. See Pinguicula. Buttonwood. See Platanus. Buxus (Box). Euphorbiacca-. Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in any li.ght, well-drained soil. They can be increased by suckers and divisions ; by layers of young or old wood, made in au- tumn or early spring ; by cuttings made of the young 194 THE NURSERY LIST. shoots, from 4 to 6 inches in length, in a sandy place in sprincj or fall. The latter method is the better way in this country, and in the north the cuttings should be handled under glass, Byrsonima. Ahilpigliiacea:. Increased by cuttings of half-ripened shoots in sand under a hand-glass, in moist bottom heat. Cabbage { Brassica olcracca, and vars. ). Crncifeytr. Seeds. They may be sown in the open ground in spring, or in the fall and the young plants wintered in a coldframe, or in a hotbed or forcing house in late winter or sprin.g. Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower are treated in the same manner. Cabbage Palm. See Areca. Cabomba. XynipIuLaLwr. Propagated by root divisions ; also seeds. .See Nyni- jihcea. Cacalia. See Senecio. Cacao. .See Theobroma. Cactus. CaciacCiT. Propagation by seeds is not often adopted, as it is a very slow method. The seeds should be sown in very sandy soil, and placed in a semi-shady position until ger- mination commences, when they may be e.xposed and very carefully watered. Usually propagated by cuttings or offsets, which should be made with a sharp cut, and laid upon a sunny shelf or on dry sand until the wound is healed and roots emitted, when they should be potted in sandy soil. Place in a bench and keep syringed. Some of the less fleshy types may not require this prelimi- nary "curing" or drying. A cereus cutting is shown in Fi,g. 72. (For an elaborate account of the propagation of cacti by cuttings, see Arloing, Ann. des Sci. Nat. 6th Ser. iv. pp. 5 to 61, with plates, 1S76.) Grafting is resorted to with weak kinds, which will not grow freely e.xcept upon the stock of a stronger species ; and by this means, also, such kinds can be kept from the damp soil, which frequently causes decay. The stocks usually emploved are those of Cereus tortuosus, C. Penivianiis, Pereskia aai/eata, etc., according to the species intended for work- ing ; they readily unite with each other. If the cion and C/ESAIPINIA CALANTHE. 195 Stock are both slender, cleft-grafting should be adopted ; if both are broad it is best to make horizontal sections, placing them together and securing in proper position by tying with raffia, but not too tightly, or the surface may be injured. See Fig. 134. Caesalpinia. Li\s:iimi>iosa:. Licreased by cuttings, which are somewhat difficult to root but may succeed if taken from the ])lant in a grow- ing state and planted in sand with a hand-glass over them in heat. Cajanus, Lcgmninosa:. Plants are usually raised from seeds obtained from the West Indian Islands and India. Also grown from young cuttings, put in sand with a hand-glass over them, in heat. Caladium. Aroidea:. Increased by tubers, which have been kept dry or rested for some time. Place in small pots in a stove or pit, where the night temperature is maintained at from 60° to 65°, and syringed daily once or twice at least. Large tubers, if sound, may be divided and the pieces potted. Some also by cuttings. Taro is the tuberous roots of C. esculetitum. Calamagrostis. Gramine(T. Increased by seeds sown in autumn or spring. C. are- naria (now Aminophila ai'iindinacca), used for holding sands along seashores, is propagated by division, and can probably be handled easily by root cuttings. Calamintha. Labiatcc. Increased by seeds, root divisions, or cuttings in spring. Calamus. Palviacece. Increased by seeds. Calandrinia. Portiilacacea;. Increased by seeds sown in pots where they are in- tended to flower, as transplantation, unless performed with more than ordinary care, will check their growth or result in loss. Calanthe. Orchidacctv. As a rule, the natural annual increase in the number of pseudo-bulbs meets the requirements of most cultivators. ig6 THE NURSERY LIST. Where a quick propagation is desired, it may be per- formed bv dividin.a: the pseudo-bulbs transversely ; alter allowing the raw surface to callus, the upper part should be set on moist sand, and several buds will form around the base. The bottom portion may be used in the ordi- nary way. Another plan is to divide the pseudo-bulbs lengthwise into two or more pieces. (See under Orchids.) Calathea, or Maranta. Scitajiiiiictr. Increased liv division in summer or any time Vietween that and the spring months. When making divisions, see that each crown is well furnished with roots. Calceolaria (Slipperwort). Si-'rij/>/iii/an'ac\\c-. Herbaceous kinds increased by seeds sown from June to August on pans of light, sandy soil, which should be soaked with water before sowing. Care must be taken to make the surface of the soil level, and also to sow the seeds as evenly as possible. It is better not to cover with soil, but a sheet of glass should be laid over the pan, which must be placed in a shady part of the greenhouse or coldframe until the young plants show the first leaf. The glass can then be gradually removed. The shrubby kinds, by seeds and by cuttings in August. Place in a coldframe or bench facing the north, in sandy soil, and, when rooted, pot off into 3-inch pots. Calendula (Pot-Marigold). Coiiiposifcr. Increased by seeds ; also by cuttings, which thrive «'ell in a compost of loam and peat. Caliphruria. .-huaryUidatt'o:. Projjagated by bulbels. .-\fter flowering, the plants should have a slight heat, and when starting into new growth should be repotted. Calla. See Richardia. Calliandra. Lcginninosa:. Increased by cuttings of rather firm young wood, in sand under a hand-glass, in heat. Callicarpa (French Mulberry). I't-i-bciiacciC. Propagated by seeds, divisions, or b\ cuttings of the young shoots, the last with the same treatment .as fuchsia. CALLIOFSIS — CALODENDRON. 197 Calliopsis. See Coreopsis. Calliprora. Liliacecc. Propagated by offsets, which should not be removed from the parent bulbs until they are of good size, Callipsyche. Amaryllidaccie. Propagated by seeds and bulbels. Callirrhoe (Poppy-Mallow). Malvaccic. Perennials by seeds, divisions of roots, and cuttings ; the annuals by seeds only. Cuttings should be started in sandy soil in a frame. Callistachys. See O.xylobium. Callistemon. MyrfacciF. Increased by seeds, and by ripened cuttings in sand under a glass. Callistephus, Callistemma (China Aster). Conipositic. Propagated by seeds, which should be S(j\vu under cover in spring, or seeds for late plains may be sown in the open. Callitris, Frenela. Coiiifercc. Increased by seeds, or by cuttings inserted under a hand-light in autumn, and wintered in a cold pit. Calluna (Heather), Ericaccre. Propagated by cuttings of the tender shoots inserted in pure sand under glass in a cool house in autuinn. Calochortus (jMariposa Lily). Li/iacecr. Propagated by seeds, offsets, and by the tiny bulblets on the upper portion of the stem. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, or early in the year, thinly in pans, so that the young plants may pass a second season in the seed-pots or pans. Place in a cool house or frame, and keep the plants close to the glass during their early stages, as they are very liable to damp-off. Early the third season pot off and plant singly, encouraging them to grow freely. The offsets are best removed when the plants are in a dormant state, placed in pots or pans, or planted out in pits or frames until they reach flowering size. Calodendron. Rutaccce. Increased by cuttings of half-ripened wood placed in sand under a glass, in gentle bottom heat. N Ig8 THE NURSERY LIST. Calophyllum. Gullifera;. Increased by cuttings made from the half-ripened shoots, which root freely in sand if placed under a glass in bottom heat. Calopogon. Orchidacecr. Increased by offsets taken from the tuberous roots. Calothamnus. ISfyrtacea:. Increased by cuttings of young wood, firm at the base. Place in sand and cover with a hand-glass. Caltha (Marsh Marigold, "Cowslip" in America). Ranuii- cnlacccT. Propagated by seeds sown as soon as ripe, or by divid- hig the roots in early spring, or in summer after flowering. Calycanthus (Sweet-scented Shrub, Allspice). Calycan- thacecc. Increased by seeds sown in a coldframe ; by divisions or offsets, and by layers put down in summer. Calypso. OrchidaceiT. Increased by offsets. Calystegia (Hedge Bindweed, Bearbind). Convolvulaccar. Propagated by seeds sown in spring, or by dividing the plants. Camassia. LiliacccE. Propagated by seeds sown in a warm situation out- doo''s or in pots or bo.xes under glass. The young plants should remain at least two years in the seed-beds. Also inceased by offsets, which are produced very freely, and which should be removed either when in a dormant con- dition, or just previous to starting into fresh growth, and arranged in clumps or rows, placing a little sand about them. Camellia, including Thea ("laponica," Japanese Rose). Ternsfr(cmiacecc. The single red camellia by either seeds, layers or cut- tings. D';>uble and variegated camellias by layers, but cuttings will succeed. Seeds give suitable stocks on which to inarch or graft the rarer kinds. The ripened shoots of the preceding summer should be taken off in August. Two or three of the lower leaves should be removed, and the cuttings planted firmly in the soil with a CAMOMILE — CANNA. igg dibble. The pans containing the cuttings should be kept in a box or coldframe, without being covered with glass, but shaded during bright sunshine. In the following spring, such as have struck will begin to push, when Ihey need to be placed in a gentle heat. Make cuttings during winter while one-year-old wood is dormant. Inarching or grafting is done in early spring, as soon as growth com- mences (Figs. 13S, 139). Camomile. See Anthemis. Campanula (Bell-flower, Slippervvort). Catnpanulacca. Increased by seeds. The jierennials are also propa- gated by dividing the roots, or by young cuttings in sprin;g. Camphora (Camphor-tree). Laiiracea:. Increased by cuttings and seeds. Campion. See Silene. Candollea. Dilleniacccc. Increased sometimes by seeds, but usually by cuttings, which will root if placed under a hand-glass in a compost (if equal parts loam and peat, with enough sand to render tlie whole porous. Candytuft. See Iberis. Canella. Cancllacca:. Increased by well-ripened cuttings taken off at the joint. They will root in sand under a hand-glass, witli bottom heat, in spring ; but care should be taken not to deprive them of any of their leaves. Canna (Indian Shot). Scitaminca:. Propagated by seeds sown in heat in late winter. The seeds are very hard, and germination will be materially stimulated if they are filed (see page 18) and then soaked in tejiid water for twenty-four hours. They should be sown thinly in pans (a mi.xture of sand and leaf-Ioam is best for them), and a covering of one and one-half or two inches of earth is not excessive. It is a good plan to sow the seeds singly in small pots. Seeds give new varieties. Also increased by divisions ; they form a large crown or stool of strong buds, each portion of which, with bud and roots attached, may be converted into an independent plant (Fig. 27). Named varieties are multiplied in this manner. For ordinary planting-out, the divided crowns 200 THE NURSERY LIST. are usually set directly in the open. If very early effects are desired, liowever, the pieces may be started on in pots; and this is always done by dealers, for they send out grow- in.yf plants. As soon as frost comes in the fall, the tops are cut, and the crowns lifted and stored in a dry, cool cellar on shelves. Care must be taken that the cellar be given plenty of air until the roots are thoroughly cured, else they m,iy rot. Cannabis (Hemp), f/iiitact'cc. Propagated by seeds sown in spring. Cantua. Poleinoniacctz. Increased by cuttings placed in sand under glass. Capparis (Caper). Capparidacar. Proiiagated by cuttings of ripe shoots, which will root in sand under glass, in moist heat. Seeds, when obtainable. Capsicum. See Pepper, Red. Caragana (Siberian Pea-tree). Lcf^uviinosir. Propagated l)y seeds and by root cuttings ; the low- .growiiig shrubs by seeds and layers. Caraganas are gen- erally increased by .grafting nn C. arhoresccns, which is easily raised from seeds, sown when ripe or in spnng. Cardamine (Lady's SmockV Criicifcrir. Seeds. Propagated easily by division after flowering. Cardinal-flower. See Lobelia. Carex (Sedge). Cyperaccu. Propagated by seeds, or by division, usually the latter. Seeds often lie dormant the first year. Careya. 3fyiiaiCiT. Propagiited by di\"ision, or by ripened cuttings, which root freely it planted in sand under a hand-glass, and placed in muist bottom heat, Carica ( Papaw-tree). Passiflorarebtainable. Sow in heat. Carnation, Caryopliyllacecr. By propagating by seeds, new varieties are raised. Sow the seeds in spring, and in a slight hotbed or in a green- CAROB — CASHEW. 201 house. Also propagated by layering, which should be done at the end of July or the begiuning of August. The shoots selected should be denudecl of a few of their leaves at the base of the young wood, and a slit must be made from this point upwards, e.xtending through a joint of the bare stem, so that a tongue is formed. This is the method employed in Europe. See h'ig. 31. In this country, always increased by cuttings. It is necessary to have a slight bottom heat, and on it ))ut lour or fi\e inches of light soil, covered with clean sand. The cuttings must be long enough to have a tolerably firm base, and they should either be taken with a heel or cutoff at a joint, and firmly inserted in the soil. See Fig. 69, b. Carob, Algaroba, or St. John's Bread [Ccmlonia sitiqua). Leguininosiz. Stocks are obtained by seeds. The seeds are often treated to scalding water before sowing, in the same man- ner as locust seeds. Varieties are grafted or fjudded on the seedlings, or they may be multii)lied by means of hard-wood cuttings in frames. Carpinus (Hornbeam). Ciipulifcnr. Increased by seeds, which germinate irregularly. \'arie- ties propagated by budding or grafting on seedling stocks. Carrion Flower. See Stapelia. Carthamus (Safflower). Compositcr. Increased by seeds sown in a gentle heat in spring. Carya. See Hicoria. Caryocar (Butternut). Ternslrcriniacea-. Increased b\' ripened cuttings, which will root in sand in heat. .Seeds, if olitainable. Caryophyllus (Clove tree). A/yrlacctr. Increased by cuttings of firm shoots «'ith the lea\'es left on. These will root if planted in sand in a moist heat. Caryopteris. Verbcnacei^. Propagated by seeds, by division, or by cuttings. Caryota. Palmacea:. Increased easily by seeds or by suckers. Cashew See Anacardium. 202 THE NI'RSERY LIST. Cassandra (Leather Leaf). Siicaccu. Propagated by seeds very carefully sown, or by layers. Sou- seeds in peat or on live sphajjnuni moss. Cassava (Manihot Aipc). Euphorbiaccar. Propagated by cuttings of the stem and by suckers. Cut the large main stalks into pieces from 4 to 6 inches long, and set them perpenchcularly into the ground in the field. The cuttings can be struck at various times, but spring is usually preferred. The stalks can be kept over winter by covering with sand on a dry knoll, jilacing the stalks and sand in layers. Co\-er the whole with boards to shed the water. Suckers which appear during summer can be removed and planted or made into cuttings. Cassia. Leguniinosa;. Annuals and biennials by seeds, which must be sown in spring, in a gentle heat. The shrubby species by cuttings of half-ripened shoots, which will rout in heat. C. J/ary- /aiidica also by division. Cassine. Ci-lasiraiwr. Increased by ripened cuttings, which will readilv strike root if planteil in a pot of sand with glass o\-er them. Castalia. See Nymphcea. Castanea. See Chestnut and Chinquapin. Castor Bean. See Ricinus. Casuarina (Pjc-efwoodl Casuarinea. Propagated by Seeds ; or by cuttings made of hali- ripeneil shc:iots, placed in sand mider .glass. Catalpa. Bignoniact\r. Increased l.)y seeds, and by cuttings made of the ri]ie wood. The named varieties and C. fluiigt-i are propa gated by soft cuttings in June and July. Grafts are also used, setting them upon seedlings of C. speciosa or C. Ingnonioidc'S. Catananche. ComposiUr. Increased by seeds, which sliould be sown in spri:'g. Also li\' di\'ision. Catchfly. See .Silene. CATESB/EA CELEKY. 2O3 Catesbaea (Lily Thorn). Rtibiacece. Propagated by cuttings planted in sand in spring, and plunged in heat. Catnip, or Catmint {Nepeta Cataria). Labiates. Seeds. Division. Cat-Tail. See Typha. Cattleya. Orchidacea:. Increased by the pseudo-bulbs. (See under Orchids. ) Cauliflower. See Cabbage. Caulophyllum (Blue Cohosh). Berheridacecr. Propagated by divisions of the roots, made in early spring or after flowering. Also by seeds, stratified, Ceanothus. Rhatnnacece. Increased by layers, which is the readiest way of obtain- ing strong plants, or by cuttings, whicli should be inserted in a coldfranie. Stratified seeds. Cedar. See Cedrus and Juniperus. Cedrela (Bastard Cedar). Meliacecr. Increased by large ripened cuttings, placed in sand, in heat. C. Sinensis by root-cuttings. Cedronella. Labiatce. The herbaceous species by division of the roots or by cuttings of young wood. C. triphylla b)' cuttings. Cedrus (Cedar). Conifertr. Increased by seeds, which are difficult to extract from the cones. Gather the cones in spring, and sow the seeds immediately in pans. Varieties are propagated by veneer grafts. Celastrus (Staft'-tree, Bitter-sweet). Celastrace^ . Propagated by seeds and suckers ; also by layering the hardy species in autumn. Ripened cuttings will root freely in a compost of loam, peat and sand. Celery ( Apium graveolens). Umbellifem. By seeds, as described on pages 5, 22 ; or, for the early crop, sow under glass, as in a hotjjed. 204 THE NURSERY LIST. Celosia (Cockscomb). Aiiiarantaceir. Propagated by seed sown in spring, in pans or frames, or in ttie open. Celsia. Scrophulariacecs. Increased by seeds, wliich may be sown in thie open border and thinned out for flowerin.a:, or raised in nursery beds and transplanted. C. Arctiirus sliould be increased by cuttings, the young wood striking freely in a cool house or frame. Celtis (Nettle-tree). Urticacea. Increased by seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe. By layers, and by cuttings of ripened shoots in autumn. Centaurea. Compositts. Annuals by seeds, which may be sown in the open border. To propagate C. Ciiicrayia and some others, sow seeds in August in slight heat, (jr make cuttings about the beginning of September. Centranthus. f 'alcrianaceiT. Increased by seeds sown in spring. Centropogon. Lobeliacece. Increased by seeds, by divisions and by cuttings fn .ni any young shoots 3 or 4 inches long. Take off with a heel and place in sharp sandy soil, close around the edge of the pot, and then keep close under a propagating box, in a temperature ranging between 60° and "70. Cephalanthus (Button-Bush). Riihiaccic. Seeds. Propagated by layers, or ripened cuttings in ;iutiniin. Cerastium. Cayyophyllacca-. Propagated by seeds and divisions, or by cuttings in- serted in the open ground in a shady place, after flowering. Ceratiola. Empctracccc. Increased by s;-eds and by cuttings, which should be placed ill sandy soil under glass. Ceratonia. See Carob. CERATOZAMIA CHELONE. 20? Ceratozamia. Cycadacccr. By seeds, ami sometimes by suckers and di\isions, but imported plants give most satisfaction. See C\cas. Ceicidiphyllum. l\fagiwliaceiz. Propagated by tender cuttings maile during the sum- mer, and slightly wilted before placing in the frames. By Seeds, when [irocurable. Cercis (Red-bud, Judas-tree). Lcgttminoscc. Propagated by seeds, sown about the end of March on a bed of light soil, in a gentle heat. They may also be in- creased by layers, but plants raised from seeds thrive best. It is not necessary to stratify the seeds. C. Japonica is gmu-n from soft cuttings in early summer. Cereus. See Cactus. Ceropegia. Asclcpiadacein:. Propagated by cuttings of small side shoots made in spring, which will root in sand, in heat, with or without a glass covering. Cestrum, including Habrothamnus. Solatiacccc. Propagated by cuttings in August, or whenever the wood is fit. Chamsecyparis. Coni/ercr. Propagated by seeds freely, also by layers, but mainly by cuttings put in during October in a cool greenhouse. Select young side shoots with a heel ; insert in well- drained pots of sandy soil, and place in a close culd- frame, keeping fairly moist through the winter. In Feb- ruary they should be callused, and should be placed in gentle heat, where they will root freely. .See Retinospora. Chamserops, including Corypha. Palinaica-. Increased by seeds, or by suckers, which generally apjjcar in considerable quantities. Chamomile. See Anthemis. Chard. See Beet, Cheilanthes. See Ferns. Chelone (Turtle-head). Scrophulariacca:. Increased by means of seeds. Also by dividing the plant during fall. Young cuttings inserted in sandy soil in a coldframe grow well. 2o6 THE NURSERY LIST. Oieny (Pruuiis Aviiuii, P. Cerasus, etc.). RosacecE. Cherry stocks are commonly grown from seeds. If the ground is in readiness, and is in proper condition, the seeds may be planted in fall, or e\-en as soon as they are ripe. If stored until spring, they must be stratified and kept very cool to prevent germination, and they should be sown at the earliest possible moment. They do not need to be cracked by hand. Care must be taken that cherry pits do not become hard and dry. This precau- tion is more important with clierries than with peaches and plums. At the close of the first season, the seed- lings will be a foot or foot and a-half liigh, large enough to transplant into nursery rows, after the manner of apples, where they are budded the following season. In warm climates the pits are sometimes cracked as soon as they are gathered, and the "meats" planted immedi- ately. They will then make stocks fit for grafting the following uinter, or for transplanting and budding the following sununer. Cherry seeds must never be allowed to become so dry that the meat is hard and brittle. Cherries, in common with other stone fruits, grow read- ily fVom root-cuttings, in the same manner as blackber- ries. They do better if started o\'er a gentle heat. The Mazzard cherry is the stock upon which cherries are recommended to be worked. It is simply a hardy and vigorous variety, with inferior fruit, of the common sweet cherry (Pniniis Aviuui). Seeds of this are read- ily procured in this coiuitry. As a matter of fact, how- ever, nearly all sour cherries are worked upon the iMaha- leb in this country, as they take better upon it, and the stocks are che.ap. Sweet cherries are often budded upon the Mahaleb, but it is a question if such practice is best. The Mazzard is such a strong grower that the bud is often "drowned out" by the flow of sap. In order to avoid this e.xuberance, nurserymen often pinch in the tips of the stocks a few d.iys before they are to be worked. The Mazzard is also liable to le.af blight, and to serious injury tVom the black aphis, so that the bark often sets before the operator has had time to finish his plantation. Mazzards usually have a shorter budding season than i\Iahalebs, and are less uniform in behavior ; and for these reasons, Mahalebs are widely used. This is a distinct species, Pruniis Mahalch, from Southern Europe. The seeds or stocks are imported. Mahaleb stocks are recommended in the books for dwarfing tue cherry, but the dwarfing depends more U[ion pruning CHERRY. 207 Cherry, continued, than upon the Mahaleb root. The Mahaleb is naturally a smaller tree than the Mazzard, however. It is said that the Mahaleb is better adapted to heavy clay soils than the Mazzard, but in practice it is used indiscrimi- nately for all soils and nearly all varieties. Morello (Prunus Cerasus) stocks will no doubt prove to be valuable in the northwest, where great hardiness is de- manded. Seedlings do not sprout or sucker badly, but the natural suckers, which are sometimes used for stocks, are likely to be more troublesome in this respect. If strong-growing tops are worked on Morello stocks, how- ever, there is usually little annoyance from suckering, Mahaleb stocks are generally used for the i\h_)rello cherries. It is probable that some of the native American cher- ries can be used as stocks. The common wild red, pin, pigeon or bird cherry {Prunus Pcnnsylvanica) has al- ready been used to some extent. The sweet and sour cherries unite readily with it, and bear very early. It is vet to be determined how long the trees will persist, but there are trees known which are sixteen or eighteen years old, and which are still healthy and vigorous. It is con- sidered to be a very promising stock for the cold prairie states. The dwarf or sand cherries (Prunus pumila and P. Besseyi] give promise as dwarf stocks. Cherry stocks are worked both by budding and graft- ing. Budding is the common method. The stocks should be fit to work the season they are transplanted, or in the second summer from seed. .Such as are too small for working then may be allowed to st;md until the following year; or if the number is small, the poor ones are rooted out. In the west, where great hardiness is required, the varie- ties are crown-grafted upon Mazzard stocks in winter. Yearling stocks are used, and the cions are from 6 to 10 inches long. When jilanted, only the top bud should be left above ground. The cion strikes roots, and own- rooted trees are obtained. The ornamental cherries are worked upon the same stocks as the fruit-bearing sorts. Mahaleb and Mazzard are commonly used for all species, the latter for weeping forms which need to be worked high. Cherry trees can be top-grafted as readily as apple or pear trees, and the same methods are employed. They are usually grafted very early in the spring. The chief 208 THE NURSERY LIST. Cherry, concluded. requisite is tliat the cions t)e completely dormant. They should be cut in winter and stored in an ice-house or a cold cellar. ChexyiX {Chinvp/ivllinn bulbosum 7u\A ScaiiJi.r cerefolium). Umbcilifcru-. Seeds, sown mucii the same as celery seeds, Init the plants are usually allowed to stand where sown. Seed is often sown in autumn. Chestnut (Castaiica saliva and var. Americana, and C. Japoiiica ). Ciipnlifcritr. Chestnut stocks are grown from seed. Difficulty is sometimes e.xperienced in keeping the seeds, as they lose their vitality if ch'ied too hard, and are likely to become moldy if allowed to remain moist. The surest way is to allow the nuts to become well dried off or "seasoned" in the fall, and then stratify them in a box with three or four times as much sand as chestnuts, and bury the bo:c a foot or two deep in a warm soil until spring. They do not always keep well if stored or stratified in a cellar. Fall planting exposes the nuts to squirrels and mice. Ameri- can stocks are better than European, because the latter are tender in the north. The stocks are worked by whip-grafting above ground, the wound being well tied and protected by wa.xed cloth. Care should be taken to have the .stock and cion about tlie same size, in order to secure a good union. Chestnuts can be cleft-grafted like apples and pears ; but in small trees it is preferable to set the grafts below ground, as in grapes. The cions should be cut early, before they begin to swell, and kept perfectly dormant until the slock begins to push into leaf Only vigorous stocks should l>e grafted. The best results are obtained when the stocks have recovered from transplanting, or when \\v-\ are from three to five years old. The working of chestnut sto<-ks is far from satisfactory in a coiumercial way. The union is imperlect in many varieties, and usually no more than half the grafts take well and live long. In all nut trees, the skill of the operator is more important than the par- ticular method employed. Chicory ( Ciclioriutii Intybns). Compositix. Seeds, sown in spring where the plants are to grow. I~)ivision. CHILOPSIS CHRYSANTHEMUM. 20g Chilopsis (Desert Willow), Bignoniacca-^ Increased by seeds, or by cuttings of half ripened shoots in sand under glass, in a gentle bottom lieat. Chimonanthus. Calycanthairtr. Propagated by la3'ering in the autumn. China Aster. See Callistephus. Chinquapin [Caslain-a pumi/a). Ciipiili/cric. By seeds. Can be handled in same manner as chest- nut, which see. Chiococca (Snowberry). Riibiacac. Propagated by cuttings, which strike root freely in sand under glass, in heat. Chionanthus (Fringe-tree). Oleacecc. Increased by seeds, which should be started in a cold- frame. By layers and cuttings. By grafting or budding it on the common ash, it succeeds \'ery well. Chionodoxa. Liliacea;. Propagated by seeds, which are produced freely. They should be sown as soon as ripe. By bulbels. Chironia. Gcnlianaccic. Increased by seeds, and by cuttings inserted in sandy soil and placed in a gentle heat in spring. Chives, or Cives (Al/iiiin ScJicenopi-asmn). Liliacea:. Division of the clumps. Choisya. Rutacccr. Increased by ripened cuttings. Christ's Thorn. See Paliurus. Chrysanthemum. Coinposili^. Increased by seeds to obtain new varieties ; these should be sown in spring. Division may be made, but this is not often practiced. Usually propagated by cut- tings about three inches long, of firm, healthy, short- jointed shoots, which spring from the base of the plant after the flowering season. They should be made in late winter or spring, and placed near the glass of a rather close frame having a temperature of about 45°. If in serted in pots, only the lower leaf should be removed ; if in beds, the remaining foliage should also be trimmed to 2IO THE NURSERY LIST. admit air. Insert about half of the cutting, ]iress tlie soil lirniiy, and water. Leaf cuttings have been employed. Inarching and grafting may also be performed, when it is desired to grow two or more varieties on one plant. The time at which chrysanthemum cuttings should be taken depends ujion the season at which bloom is wanted, and the methods of cultivation. The plants may be flow- ered in pots, or in a solid soil bench. Very good small plants may be brought to perfection in 6-inch pots, but the best results, in pot plants, are to be obtained in S-inch or lo-inch pots. If the plants are to be used for dec- oration, they should, of course, be grown in pots, but the best results for cut-flowers are usually obtained by grow- ing in the earth. In any case, the cuttings are made from the tips of basal or strong lateral shoots, late in February to May. One form of cutting is shown in Fi.g. 71. If the plants are to be flowered in pots — in which case they usu- ally mature earlier — the cuttings may Vie started as late as April, or e\en June ; but if they are grown in the soil and large plants are desired, the cuttings should be taken in February or l\Iarch. The plants which are flowered in the soil are generally grown in pots until July. The plants are flowered but once, new ones being grown from cut- tings each year. The Marguerite or Paris Daisy {C. frutr\u'ns and C. f'Viiiciilact'Htu) are propagated by cuttings of lirni shoots, like geraniums. Chrysobalanus iCoco Plum 1. Rosacrce. Increased by seeds when procurable. Large cuttings, however, taken oT at a joint without shortening of leaves, will root readily if planted thinly in a pot of sand, and l)laced in moist heat with a bell-glass over them. Chrysocoma (Goldy-locks . Contposittr. ProiLigatcd by seeds, or by cuttings of half-ripened shoots, placed in sand under glass Seeds Chrysogonum. Coiiipositir. Seeds. Increased by di\-iding the roots in spring. Chrysophyllum (Star Applel. Sapo/acccT. Increased by seeds when procurable. Bv cuttings of small, well-ripened shoots, plunged in strong, moist heat. Cicca ( Ofaheite Gooseberry). Euphorbiacca:. Seeds. B\- cuttings of ripe shoots, which will root in sand if placed under a glass and in bottom heat. CIMICIFUGA CISTUS. 211 Cimicifuga (Bugwort). Ranunculacccr. Increased by seeds, sown in a coldframe or border as soon as ripe ; or by division of tlie routs in spring. Cinchona (Peruvian Baric). Rubiacccr. Imported seeds, and cuttings talut in at any time. All the varieties of clematis may also be increased by cuttings made of the young shoots, which may be cut up to every eye and planted in .gentle heat. Also b\' .grafting any of the varieties on portions of clematis roots in winter. Good, healthy pieces of root obtained from old plants answer the purpose well. See also Atragene. Cleome. Capparidaa\r. Increased b\" seeds sown in a frame in spring, with slight warmth. Ripened cuttings root Ireely in moderate heat. Clerodendron, \'olkanieria. I 'erdcviaffir. Increased by seed, which, if sown when ripe or in the sprin.g, and grown on in heat, may be converted into fiowerin.g plants the seC(.)nd Season. Propagated also by cuttin.gs of both green and mature wood ; also of roots. Suckers. The climbing varieties do not root quite so readily t'rom cutnngs as the othr-is, but cuttings of the ripened wood do well. CLETHRA- — COCKSCOMB. 213 Clethra. Ericacecs. Propagated by seeds (as for Andromeda), divisions and layers. Cuttings taken from the lialf-ripened wood will root in gentle heat. Clianthus (Glory Pea, Parrot Beak). LeguminostT. C. Dampieri is best raised from seeds, which should be sown singly in good-sized pots, when the necessity of first shifting will be obviated. C. puniceas and others from cuttings, which strike easily in sand in bottom heat. Clintonia. Liliacea:. Propagated by seeds, and by division of the root in spring. Clitoria. Lcguminosa:. The best method of increasing is by seeds. Increased also by cuttings of stubby side shoots, which will root in sandy soil, in heat. Cliva, Imantophyllum. Amaryllidacea;. Propagated by seeds or divisions. Clove-tree. See Caryophyllus. Clusia (Balsam-tree). GuiiifercE. Increased by cuttings of half-ripened shoots, which will strike in sand, with bottom heat. Cobffia. Poleinoniacco'. Readily raised from fresh seed in spring, if a gentle bot- tom heat is supplied. It is often said that the seeds must be placed on edge, but this is a mistake. E.xercise care not to keep the seed soil too moist. From cuttings taken when young, in spring, and inserted in pots of sandy soil, placed in gentle bottom heat. Coccoloba (Seaside Grape). Polygonacca-. Propagated by seeds and by cuttings of the ripened wood, with leaves entire, and taken off at a joint. These will root freely in sand under glass. Cocculus, Wendlandia. MenispermacetF. By seeds. By half-ripened cuttings of side shoots ; these will root easily in spring or summer, if planted in sand and placed in bottom heat, under glass. Cockscomb. See Celosia. 214 THE NURSERY LIST. Cocoanut [Corns niicifera). Palmacecz". The nuts are buried iu nursery rows, and the youn? trees are transplanted. A more common practice is tu remove the buried nuts, when they begin to sprout, to the place in which the tree is to stand. A nut is then placed in a hole .s' be grafted on the privet. Forget-me-not. See Alyosotis. Forsythia (Golden Bell). 0/eacr,r. Propagated e.xtensiveh' by green cuttings in summer, in a frame; also grown from ripe cuttings taken in kdl and winter, and planted in the open air in early spring. FOTHERGILLA FUCHSIA. 237 Fothergilla. Hamamelidca-. Propagated by seeds, sown in spring in a peaty soil ; by layers. Four-O'clock. See Mirabilis. Foxglove. See Digitalis. Fragaria. See Strawberry. Franciscea. See Brunfelsia. Francoa. Saxifragacecr. Seeds, sown in early S]iring in .a cool frame. Also by division. Frangula. See Rhamnus. Fraxinella. See Dictamnns. Fraxinus (Ash). Olcaceir. Propagated chiefly by seeds, which should be stratified until fall or the spring following the gathering. The seeds do not germinate the year in which they mature. The named sorts are budded upon seedling stocks if the sorts are upright growers, or top-grafted if they are weepers. Both the European and American species are used for stocks. Freesia. Iridacccs. Increased readily by seeds, sown as soon as ripe in pots of light, sandy soil, and placed in a sunny position, in a cool frame. Commonly by bulbels. Freycinetia. Pa)idaiiacac. Increased by ofisets. .Seeds, when obtainable. Fringe-tree. See Chionantlius. Fritillaria. Liliacecr. Seeds, sown as soon as ripe where the plants are to stand the first year. Bulbels and division. Fuchsia (Ladies' Ear Drop). Onagraccix. Fuchsias grow readily from seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe, and blooming plants ought to be obtained in eight or ten months. Cuttings of the young growth strike quickly and easily. Blooming plants of most sorts can be obtained in four or five months. Plants for winter bloom are usually started in late spring. 238 THE NURSERY LIST. Funkia (Plantain Lily, White Day Lily). Liliacecc. Propagation is effected by dividing the stools during the early autumn, or when they begin to start in spring. Only strong, healthy clumps should be divided, and each portion should contain several crowns. Furze. See Ulex. Gaillardia. Coinpositce. The annual sorts are propagated by seeds started under glass; the perennial kinds by seeds, cuttings or division. Sometimes root cuttings are used. Galanthus (Snowdrop). Ainayyllidaceie. Commonly by bulbels. Rarely by seeds. Galax. IliapensiaccLC. Propagated by divisions of strong clumps in autumn. Galega (Goat's Rue). Leguminosir. Seeds, in S|iring ; also by division. Galtonia ( Hyacintlius candicatis of gardeners). Liliaiec?. Increased by bulbels or seeds. Garcinia, Cambogia, Mangostaiia. Gidlifcicr. Seeds. Cuttings of ripened shoots should be inserted in sand under a glass, in strong bottom heat. Gardenia. Rubiacecr. Strong, healthy cuttings may be taken with a heel, early in the year being the best tiiue, but any season will do when suitable cuttings can be secured. They should be placed in bottom heat of about 75°, in a frame. Garlic (Allium sativum). Liliai'dT. By "cloves" or di\isions of the bulb. In the noi'lh these are planted in the spring, but in wariu climates they may be planted in the fall. Garrya, includmg Fadyenia. CoTnacecr. Propagated by seeds, or by cuttings of half-ripened wood in sandy loam in August, and shaded until rooted. Also by budding on Aiicnba Japonica at the crown. Plant sufficiently deep to cover the bud or graft. Gaultberia ( Bo.xberry, Wintergreen ). Ericacea\ Increased by seeds, divisions, layers and cuttings under glass. GAYLUSSACIA GILIA. fjg Gaylussacia. See Vaccinium and Whortleberry. Gazania. Coinpositcc. Increased by seeds, and by divisions. Make cuttings in July or Auuust, from tlie side siioots near the base of the plant; these should be placed in a sandy soil, in a frame. Gelsemium. Logauiacccc. Propagated by cuttings under glass. Genista. See Cytisus. Gentiana (Gentian). Ccntianaccir. Seeds and division. The seeds germinate slowly, and often with difficulty. They often lie dormant a year or more. They should be sown in well-sifted light loam, in pans or flats, and kept cool and shaded. Division must be carefully done, or the plants will suffer. Geonoma. Palinaceir. Increased by seeds and suckers. Geranium. Geraniaceir. Mostly by seeds and divisions. For the conservatory plants known as geraniums, see Pelargonium Gerardia. Scrophnlariaceic. Propagated, but often with difficulty, by seeds, sown in the open air or in a frame or cool house. Many of the species are partially parasitic on roots. German Ivy. See Senecio. Gesnera. Gcsneracccr. Seeds, and cuttings of the shoots and leaves. Handled in essentially the same manner as .Sinningia, which see. Gethyllis. Amayyllidacco!. They may be increased by bulbels or seeds. Gherkin ( Ciicuinis Anguria). CuLiirbiiaci'iT. Propagation is effected by seeds. See Cucumber. Gilia, including p'eiizlia. Poleiiioniaccce. Seeds should be sown in spring in the open ground or frame, in a rather light soil. 240 THE NURSERY LIST. Gillenia. Rosacea:. Increased readily by dividing the routs in spring ; also by Seeds. Gilliflower. See Matthiola. Ginger. See Zingiber. Ginkgo, Salisburia (Maidenhair-tree). Conifera:. Seeds, which are mostly imported, and which should be stratified. Seeds are now produced in some quantity in this country. Also by layers, and by cuttings of either green or ripe wood. The cuttings are handled under glass. Named varieties are grafted upon common stocks. Ginseng (^-//-a/Ziz, ox Panax). Araliacecc. Cuttings of stems and roots. Stems of old plants may be cut into pieces an inch or two long and inserted in sand in heat. Or young ]ilants can be obtained by cut- ting down the tops of strong plants and then separating the suckers which arise. Gladiolus. lyidacecc. Seeds, which are commonly sown in pans in spring, in the house ; or they may be sown in the border. Seed- lings flower in two or three years. They give new varieties. The common method of propagation is by means of cormels (see page 31, and Fig. 25). These are removed from the parent corm and planted in the open, where some of them will flower the same season, al- though most of them will require a season's independent growth before they flower. If cormels are desired in abundance, the large corms should not be allowed to flower. Some varieties do not produce cormels readily, and these may be made to bear them l.)y cutting or ring- ing (page 31 I (3ne or more new corms are formed above the old one each year ( Fig. 25). Gleditschia (Honey Locust). LcgiiininoscT. Seeds should be sown in spring about one inch deep. They should be soaked in hot water before being sown. X'arieties propagated by grafts upon seedling stock. Gleichenia. See Ferns. Globe Flower. See TroUius. Gloriosa. Liliacecf. Seeds should be inserted singly in small pots, in a GLOXINIA GOOSEBERRY. 24I light, sandy soil, and plunged in bottom heat. Bulbels, which should be carefully removed from the old bulbs when starting them in spring, as the roots are very brittle. Gloxinia. See Sinningia. Glycosmis. Rutacccr. Seeds. Increased by cuttings, which are commonly inserted in sand under glass, often in heat. Glycyrrhiza (Liquorice). Lcg;Hniinosir. Propagated by division and by seeds. Godetia. See CEnothera. Golden Rod. See Solidago. Gomphocarpus. Asclepiadacecr. Seeds should be sown under glass in spring ; or cut- tings may be made of small side shoots when the plant is commencing new growth, and placed in sand under glass. Gomphrena. See Ceiosia. Gonolobus. Asckpiadacecr. Seeds, divisions, and cuttings under glass. Goober. See Arachis. Gooseberry (Ribes GrossulatHa and A', oxyacanthoidcs'). Saxifrai^acccc. Seeds, for the raising of new varieties, should be sown as soon as well cured, in loamy or sandy soil, or they may be stratified and sown together with the sand in the spring. Cuttings 6 to 8 inches long of the mature wood, inserted two-thirds their length, usually grow readily, especially if taken in August or September and stored during winter, in the same way as currant cuttings (Fig. 65). Single eye cuttings may be used for rare kinds. Stronger plants are usually obtained by layers, and the English varieties are nearly always layered in this coun- try (although frequently grown from cuttings in England). Mound-layering is usually employed (the mounding being done in June, or when the new growth has reached sev- eral inches), the English varieties being allowed to re- main on the stools two years, but the American varieties only one (Fig. 32). Much depends upon the variety. The Downing, for example, usually makes a merchant- 242 THE NURSERY LIST. able plant in one year after transplanting from the stools, but Smith Improved may require a year more. Layered plants are usually set in nursery rows for a year alter removal from the stools. Green-layering during- summer is sometimes practiced for new or rare varieties. Strong plants may also be procured by tip-layering, as in the black raspberry (see page 36). If it is desired to train the weaker gooseberries in tree form, they may be grafted upon the stronger-growing varieties. Gordonia. TfriistnciniacciT. Propagated by seeds or layers. Gorse. See Ule.x. Goumi. See Elteagnus. Gourds ( Ciicurbila Pcpo, Laffcnaria, etc. ). Cuciii-hilacii!-. Seeds, after the weather is settled and ground is warm. Granadilla ( Passiflora editlis, etc. ) PassiJioracciT. Propagated by seeds, or, less easily, by cuttings. Grape { I'itis, several species). I'itacccr. Grape seedlings are very easily grown. If the ground is fit and there is no danger from vermin, the seeds may be sown in the fall, but they are usually stratified and sown in spring. They come readily if sown outdoors, but some prefer to force them imder glass with a mild bottom heat. Seedlings do not "come true," and they are there- fore grown only for the purpose of obtaining new sorts. The grape is very readily multiplied by layers, either of the rijie or green wood. The ripe wood or canes may be layered either in fall or spring, but spring is usually chosen. The cane is simply covered up 2 or 3 inches deep, and nearly every bud will produce a plant. In August or September the layer should be lifted and cut up into plants. Better plants are obtained if only the strong- est canes are used and only a part of the buds on each are allowed to grow. The cane is usually cut back to four or five buds, or if verj' strong plants are desired only one bud is lett on each layer. Canes of the previous year, those recently matured, are preferred, although wood two or three years old may be used, but in this case it is usually necessary to cut or otherwise wound the joint in order to induce the formation of roots. \'ines or stools grown for the production of layers should be cut back severely in fall or winter, to induce a vigorous growth of canes the GRAPE. 245 Grape, continued. following- season. These canes are then layered the suc- ceeding fall or spring. Only a |iart of the canes are lay- ered from any stool, a part being allowed to grow for cutting back the next fall in order to get another crop of canes. In some varieties which do not strike readily from cuttings, layering is considerably practiced by nursery- men. The Delaware is often grown in this way. E.xtra strong layers can be secured by layering in pots. A large pot, hlled with rich soil, is plunged beneath the layer. In this manner a layer may be rooted and separated even while carrying fruit. Layering in pots is employed only in special cases. In vineyards, layering is often employed for the purpose of filling vacancies. A strong cane is left, witliout pruning, on a neighboring vine in the same row, and in the spring the end of it is laid down in the vacant place. The vine is covered about a half foot deep, and the free end of it is turned up perpendicularly out of the soil and tied to a stake. By fall or the following spring the layer should he sufficiently rooted to allow the parent cane to be cut away. Green-layering is sometimes practiced upon new and scarce varieties, but strong plants are not obtained unless they are well handled by forceful culture after they are separated. The growing cane is layered in midsummer, usually by serpentine layering. Cuttings are usually employed by nurserymen to propa- gate the .grape. These are made in many fashions. In all ordinary cases hard-wood cuttings are made from the ripened canes in autumn or winter when the vines are pruned. It is advisable to take the cuttings before the canes have been exposed to great cold. Select only those canes which are well matured, solid and rather short- jointed. In common practice, the cuttings are cut into two-bud lengths, the lower cut being made close to the bud. The cuttings will range from 6 to 10 inches in length. Some prefer three-bud cuttings (Fig. 59), but unless the cane is very short-jointed, such cuttings are too long to be planted and handled economically. Three- bud cuttings usually give stronger plants the first season, because roots start from both joints as a rule. Very strong plants are obtained from mallet cuttings (Fig. 6i), but as only one such cutting can be made from a cane, unless the cane bears very strong branches, they are not much used. Various methods of peeling, slitting and slicing cuttings are recommended, in order to extend the 244 THE NURSERY LIST. Grape, continued. callusing process, but they are not used ia common or commercial practice. The cuttings are tied in bundles of 50 or 10 , and stored in sand, moss, or sau'dust in a cellar, until spring, when they are planted in rows in the open. Some varieties, of which the Delaware is an e.xample, do not strike readily from cuttings. Some growers start common cuttings of these under glass in spring. Others bury the bundles of cuttings in a warm exposure in the fall, with the butt ends up and aliout le\ el with the surface of the grouud. This affords bottom heat to the butts and induces callusing. (See page 57.) Atthe approach of cold Weather the cuttings are removed to a cellar, or are heavily mulched and allowed to remain where buried. Storing is safer. Some growers obtain the same results by burying upside down in a cellar. These slow-rooting sorts often start well if they are simply kept in a warm cellar — but where the buds will not swell— all winter, as the callusing is then hastened. At the end of the tirst season the plants may be transplanted. The plants are often sold at this age, but buyers usually prefer two-year-old plants. Single bud or "eye" cuttings are largely used for the newer and rarer varieties. These are cut from the canes in the fall, the same as long cuttings, and are stored in boxes of sand or moss. A month before the weather becomes settled, these boxes may be taken into a house or greenhouse, or put in a mild hotbed, to induce the for- mation of the callus. They may then be planted out- doors, and a fair proportion of ni'jst varieties may be expected to grow. The best and commonest way of han- dling eyes, however, is to start them under glass. They are planted horizontally, or nearly so, and about an inch deep in sand or sandy earth, in a cool greenhouse in late winter — in February in the northern states— and in about six weeks the plants will be large enough to pot off or to transplant into coldframes or a cool house. If only a few plants are to be grown, they may be started in pots. \Vhcn the weather is thoroughly settled, they are trans- ferred to nursery rows, and by fall they will make strong plants. There are various ways recommended for the cut- ting of these eyes — as cutting the ends obliquely up or down, shaving off the bark below the bud, and so on — but the advantages of these fashions are imaginary. A good eye-cutting is shown in Fig. 66. The foreign grapes are propagated by eyes in the north. Soft cuttings are sometimes used to multiply new kinds. GRAPE. 245 Grape, continued. These may be taken in summer from the growing canes, but the plants are usually forced during winter for the pur- pose of giving the extra wood. Cuttings are taken off as fast as buds form during the winter, and they are forced in close frames with a good bottom heat. The cuttings may comprise two buds, with tlie leaf at the upper one allowed to remain, or they may bear but a single eye, in which case the leaf, or the most of it, is left on. This rapid multiplication from small, soft wood usually gives poor plants ; but strong plants may be obtained by allowing the wood to become well hardened before it is used. Soft cut- tings will root in two or three weeks under good treatment. In order to secure extra strong plants from single buds, the eyes may be saddle-grafted or whip-grafted upon a root 2 or 3 inches long. The root grafts are then treated in the same way as eye cuttings, only that they are usually grown in pots from the start. The vine may be grafted with ease by any method. Cleft-grafting is commonly employed upon old plants. The cions are inserted on the crown of the plant, three or four inches below the surface of the ground. The cleft is bound with string, and then covered with earth, no wax being necessary. The best time to perform the operation is very early in spring, before the sap starts. Vines may be grafted late in spring also, after danger of bleeding is past, if the cions are kept perfectly dormant. Vines are sometimes grafted in the fall, but this practice cannot be recommended in tlie north. Young plants are usually whip-.grafted at the crown, either indoors or outdoors. Grafting the vine is mostly confined to Europe, Califor- nia, and other countries where the European grape ( J'i/is zniiifcra) is grown, as that species must be grafted upon some other stock in order to resist the phylloxera. The common wild frost-grape ( I'itis riparia) is the most pop- ular stock. The union in these cases must be two or three inches above the ground, to prevent the cion from taking root. The union is wound with waxed nuislin, and the earth is heaped about it until it has healed. Grapes can be grafted by the cleft-graft below ground as readily as pears or apples can be worked. For pictures of various methods of grafting the grape, see Figs. 107, 113, 114, 116, 124, 125. The last (125) is the best type for general use on old vines. TJie vine is frequently inarched, and early in spring it can Ije budded by ordinary methods. Q 246 THE NURSERY LIST. Grape, continued. Seed-grafting is a curious practice, which may be ap- plied to tiie grape (see page 131). There is so much misapprehension respecting the methods and results of the grafting of grapes, that the following directions by the veteran viticulturist, George Husmann, now of Napa, California (as given in Ameri- can Agriculturist, 1S96), are here transcribed in full : "A good, thin-bladed, sharp knife to cut the cions, a sharp saw to cut off large stocks — the smaller ones can be cut with good pruning shears — a chisel for grafting having a blade 2 '-2 or 3 inches broad in the middle and a wedge on each side [a knife with but a single wedge, as in Figs. 120 and 121, will answer the same purpose], a wooden mallet, and a few strings of raffia, or other ban- dage, in case a stock should need tying, which is seldom the case — are the implements necessary for grafting. The cions should be of selected wood, the size of a lead- pencil, or somewhat larger, cut some time in winter, tied in bundles, and buried their entire length on the shady side of a building, or under a tree, to keep them dormant. .Short-jointed, firm wood is to be preferred. All can be carried in a basket, if one intends to perform the opera- tion alone. If several are to work together, of course the tools must be divided accordingly. In California we work generally in gangs of three, the first man clearing away the ground froin the stock until he comes to a smooth place for inserting the cion, whether this be at the surface or slightly below. The former is preferable if resistant vines are to be grafted with non-resistant cions. He then cuts off the stock horizontally about an inch and a halt above a knot or joint. The next man cuts the cions to a smooth, long, sloping wedge just below a bud [as sh'>wn in F'ig. iiq], then s]ilits the stock, either with pruning shears or chi>el, according to its size. If the stock is not more than an inch in diameter, the shears are best, as only one cion is to be inserted. Keep the blade of the shears on the side where the cion is to join the stock, so as to prevent bruising, and make a long, smooth, sloping cut, a little transversely if possible, as the junction will thereby become all the more perfect. Then push the wedge of the cion firmly down into the cleft, taking care that the inner bark or fiber of stock and cion are well joined, as on this principally depends the success of the operation. To open the cleft, the wedges on the chisel are used if necessary. An expert will depend very little GRAPE. 2,47 Grape, continued. on these, unless tlie stocks are very heavy, but will open the cleft with knife or shears, ancl then push down the cion to its proper place. The inner side of the cion, oppo- site the bud, should be somewhat thinner, so that the stock will close iirmly on it ; the cion should als(j be in- serted far enough so that the bud is just above the hori- zontal cut on the stock. The third man follows, presses a little moist earth on the surface of the stock, and then hills up around the junction to the mipermost buds of the cion with well-pulverized soil, taking care not to move the cion, and the operation is finished. It becomes neces- sary sometimes to tie the stock, when it is not lartje enough or from some defect in grafting it does not firmly hold the cion. In such a case, pass a string of raffia or some other flat bandage firmly around the stock and tie it, but in no case use grafting wa.x or clay, as the strong flow of sap from all the pores is apt to drown and sour the cion, while without obstructing it, it will flow around the stock, ser\ing to keep the junction moist and facilitate the union. As the whole operation is covered with earth, there is no danger of drying up, as is sometimes the case when fruit trees are top-grafted. "A very important consideration, to insure success, is to ecjualize the stock and cion. If, therefore, large stocks are to be grafted, we must have strong, well-developed wood for the cions, and have buds enough to take up the full How of sap, while small stocks, if used at all, should be grafted with small cions of only two or three buds. When the stocks are strong, I take two cions and insert one on each side of the stock, of full length, say from 14 to 16 inches, and with si.x to eight buds each. This has many advantages. The principal one is that they will elaborate and work up the entire flow of sap. Another is, that if the cions have well-developed fruit buds, they will produce quite a number of clusters from the upper buds, and thus show the character of the fruit the first year. I have picked a thousand pounds of grapes from an acre thus grafted, the first summer, and a full crop of five or si.x tons per acre the following season. Another advantage is that it establishes the crown of the graft at the right distance from the ground, as the three upper buds will produce the canes for the next season's bearing. If both cions grow, cut off the weakest above the junction the next spring, leaving onlv the strongest. I generally find that the whole surface of the stock is covered by the 248 THE NURSERY LIST. Grape, concluded, new growth, and that the junction between stock and cion is perfect. Another advantage is —especially in Cali- fornia, where we plow and cultivate close to the vines, and where some of the workmen are careless— they are more apt to run over and disturb the small grafts than the large ones, which are protected by hills of earth above the surface ; nor are the young shoots disturbed and broken so easily by careless hands or high winds. A stake should be driven close to the graft immediately after grafting is finished, and the young shoots, when they appear, tied to it for support, as they generally start vig- orously and are easily broken off, or blown off by hi.gh winds. Do not be discouraged if some time elapses be- fore they start. I have often had them remain dormant until fuly or August, and then make a rapid growth. If suckers from the stock appear — as is generally the case — they should be removed at once, taking care to cut them close to the stock, so as to have no stumps or dormant buds. Tying and suckering should be repeated every week or ten days at least. As long as the cion remains fresh and green it may begin growing at any time. Of course, care must be taken not to disturb the cion. If everything does well, there will be three or four canes from the upper buds, which may be pruned just as any other bearing vines." Grape Hyacinth. See Muscari. Grevillea. Pi-oteacea-. Propagated by seeds, sown under glass in late winter ; also by cuttings of half-ripened wood. Grewia. Ti/iaccir. Seeds. Cuttings may be struck in sand under glass, with heat. Grindelia. Coniposi/ir. Seeds, sown in the border or under a frame. Divisions. Cuttings. Ground-Cherry. See Physalis. Ground-Nut. See Apios ; also Peanut (under Arachis). Groundsel. See Senecio. Guaiacum . Zy^oplivllaccu-. Ripened cuttings in spring, under a nand-glass, in heat. GUAVA H.EMODORUM. 249 Guava (Psidimn, several species). H'Tyrtacecc. The truavas grow readily from seeds, and plants will often bloom when a year and a-half old. They may also be multiplied by layers, and by cuttings either under glass or in the open. Guelder Rose. See Viburnum. Guernsey Lily. See Nerine. Gumbo. See Okra. Gum, Sweet. See Liquidambar. Gum-tree. See Eucalyptus. Gunnera. HaloragccE. Propagated by division. It is very difficult to raise from seed. Gymnocladus (Kentucky Coffee-tree). Leguminoscc. Readily increased by seeds, which start better if soaked tur a few hours in hot water. Also by root-cuttings. Gymnogramme. See Ferns. Gymnyostachys. Aroidcix. Propagation is effected l)y suckers and divisions. Gynerium (Pampas Grass). Graininerp. Seeds, under glass in the ncjrth. Also increased by dividing the tufts. Gynura. Composite/:'. Increased easily by cuttings and seeds. Gypsophila . Caryopliyllaceic . Propagated Ijy seeds, division or cuttings. Habrothamnus. See Cestrum. Hackberry. See Celtis. Hasmanthus (Blood Flower). Amaryllidacea;. Bulbels, which should be removed and potted when the plants are commencing new growth, and be kept in a close pit or house till established. Seeds are rarely used. Hasmodorum (Australian Bloodroot). Hczniodoracece. Increased by dividing the routs in spring. 25" THE NURSERY LIST. Hakea. Proteacea:. Well-ripened cuttings, placed in sandy peat under glass, in a cool house. Seeds, when obtainable, can be used. Halesia (Silver-bell, or Snowdrop Tree). Styracacecz. Seeds, which rarely germinate till the second year. They should be stratified or kept constantly moist. Pro- pagation is also effected by layers, or by cuttings of the roots in spring and autumn. Layers are commonly em- ployed in this country. Halimodendron (Salt-tree). Lcguminoscc. Freely increased by seeds, layers or cuttings. May also be grafted on common laburnum. Hamamelis (Witch-hazel). Hamamelidea:. All grow from seeds or layers, and the Japan species succeed if grafted on American species in the greenhouse. H. Virginica may be readily propagated by layers. Hamelia. Riibiaceiz. Seeds. Cuttings which are nearly ripe will root during the early part of summer under glass, with heat. Hamiltonia. Rubiacea. Seeds.- Half-ripened cuttings, placed in sand under glass. Hardenbergia. Lcgiiuiinosa-. Seeds may be used ; also increased l)y division. Cut- tings, made of the firm young side shoots iu spring, will grow if inserted under a bell-glass, and placed in a warm frame or pit, without bottom heat. Harebell. .See Campanula. Harpalium. See Helianthus. Haw, Hawthorn. .See Cratcegus. Hazel. See Corylus. Heartsease. See Viola. Heath. See Erica. Heather. See Calluna ; also Erica Hedera (Ivy). Araliaii\c. Seeds. Layers. The rooted portions of the \ine may be severed and treated as independent plants. Cuttings HEDYCHIUM HELIOTROPIUM. 251 may be made in autumn from any firm shoots, and in- serted in pots or in tire open ground. If they are placed in heat and kept shaded imtil roots are formed, good plants are obtained much sooner than when placed in a coldframe or in the open air. Named varieties are grafted on the stock of any common strong cHmbing form. Hedychium (Indian Garland Flower). Siilaini?ie(T. Seeds, rarely. Increased by dividing the rhizomes in spring, when the plants are repotted. Hedysarum. LcguDihiosa:. Propagation is effected by means of seeds and division. Helenium. Coinposita;. Increased by seeds or divisions. Helianthemum (Rock-Rose, Sun-Rose). Cistacea:. The annuals are raised from seeds. The perennials may also be raised from seeds, but it is better to trust to layers and to cuttings, which will root freely in a sandy soil, if kept shaded until established. Helianthus, including Harpalium (Sunflower). Coiiiposita:. By seeds, which may be sown in pots, and the seedlings transferred, or in the open ground in spring. Also divi- sions. Of perenniaf sorts, use the underground shoots or "creepers," treating as for cuttings. Helichrysum, Elichrysiun (Everlastings). CotiipositiT. The annual species and the varieties of //. bractcaium may be raised from seed, sown in a light heat in early spring, and afterwards transplanted ; or sown in the open ground a little later. The perennial species are increased by cuttings in spring, in a close frame without heat. Heliconia. Scitamijiccr. May be increased by seeds, but the best method is by division of the rootstock in spring when growth com- mences. Separate ])ieces may be placed in pots, and grown in a moist stove temperature, repotting when neces- sary ; or they may be planted out in the stove, if desired. Heliotropium (Heliotrope). Borrav;inacec'c. Seeds. The common practice is to use cuttings. These can be taken at almost any season, if good growing shoots are to be had. They start readily in sand or soil on a cut- ting bench, or under a frame. Plants for bedding are 252 THE NURSERY LISl". Struck in late winter from stocks which are in a vigorous condition. Helipterum, including Rhodanthe. Composila. Seeds may be sown in early spring, under cover. Helleborus (Black Hellebore, Christmas Rose). Ratiuncu- lacecB. Seeds may be sown as soon as ripe. Strong and healthy root divisions are also employed. See, also. Veratrum. Helonias. Liliacear. Propagation is effected by seeds, and slowly by root di\isions. Hemerocallis (Day Lily). LiliaceiT. Increased by divisions. H. Middendorfii and some others by seeds. Hemlock Spruce ( Tsiic^a Ca/iadcvisis). CoiiiferiT. Seeds. Named varieties top-worked on seedlings. Handled the same as Abies and Picea, which see. Hemp. See Cannabis. Hepatica. Ranuticulacecr. Can be propagated by division ; also by seeds. Heracleum (Cow Parsley, Cow Parsnip). L'litbcIIifcyiT. Readily increased by seeds or divisions. Herbertia. Iridact'O". Propagated by means of seeds or bulbels. Hesperis (Dame's Violet, Rocket). Crucifeya-. The single sorts are increased by seeds ; the double forms by carefully dividing the roots, or by cuttings. Heuchera (Alum Root). SaxifyagacccT. Seeds. Readily increased by dividing the crowns dur- ing spring. Hibiscus. Malvaceae. Seeds. Also by dix'isions and layers. Cuttings ol green wood are commonly used, made in summer for hardy species or in early spring for tender ones. Cuttings of ripened wood may be taken in fall, and stored until HICORIA HOLLY. 253 spring in a rattier dry place. The variegated sorts do Ijet- ter if grafted upon strong stocl>' seeds sown in light sandy soil, in spring or cmtumn. The sub-shrubby ILEX IPOMfEA. 257 sorts are also increased by seeds sown in spring, but more often by divisions or by cuttings. Ilex, including Prinos (Holly). Ilicinca:. Seeds, which should be stratified. They are often cleaned of the pulpy coat by maceration. The seeds rarely germinate until the second year. Varieties are perpetuated by graftage. The veneer-graft, upon potted plants, is usually employed, but other methods may be successful. Budding is sometimes performed. Illicium (Aniseed-tree). l\rac;noliacea:. Seeds. Cuttings of young ripened shoots may be made during summer and should be placed in sandy soil, under a glass. Imantophyllum. Amaryllidacccr. .Seeds. Usually increased by division or by means of bulliels. Impatiens. See Balsam. Indian Corn. See INIaize. Indian Fig. See Opuntia. Indian Shot. See Canna. Indigofera (Indigo). Lcguininoscc. Propagated by seeds. Cuttings of young shoots may be inserted in sandy or peaty soil under .glass, in slight heat. Inula, Elecampane. Coiiipositcc. Readily increased by seeds or by tlivision. lonidium, Solea. J'io/acccr. The herbaceous species are increased by seeds and by divisions. The shrubby sorts are increased by cuttings, which will root in sand, in a frame. Ipomcea, including Quamoclit (Moonflower, Morning Glory). ConvolznilacecE. All the annual species are grown from seeds. Seeds of moonflowers should usually be filed or cut on the point, and started in a rather higli temperature. The perennials are also increased by seedage, but they may be raised from cuttings struck in a forcing-house or a frame. The moonflowers often do better in the north from cuttings 258 THE NURSERY LIST. than from seeds. / Horsfalliiz is largely propagated by layers, and other species may be treated in the same way. Division is sometimes employed. / pandurata can be propagated by root cuttings. Also grafted (see page 129). Ipomopsis. See Gilia. Iresine, Achyranthes. Amarantacccc. Seeds rarely. Increased readily by cuttings. For sum- mer bedding in the north, cuttings should be started in February or March. For use as window plants, they should be taken in late summer. Iris, including Xiphion (Blue Flag). Iridiuar. Seeds grow readily and give good results, and they are usually produced freely, especially in the bulbous species. Sow as soon as ripe in light soil in some protected place. The bulbous species iiroduce bulbels, which may be used for multiplication. The rhizomatous species are propa- gated Ijy dividing the rhizome into short-rooted pieces. Or Avhen the rhizomes lie on the surface of the ground and do not root readily, they may be layered. Isonandra (Gutta-Percha Tree). Sapo/aiwr. Insert cuttings in sandy soil, under glass, in heat. Itea. Sa.ri/ragaiea'. Propagated by seeds or by suckers, in s|)ring ; and in autumn by layers. Ivy. See Pledera and Ampelopsis. Ixia. Iridacccr. Seeds may be sown in i)ans of sandy soil in autumn, and placed in a coo] frame. Propag.-ition by bulbels is much quicker, and is the usual method. IxiolirioD . AmaryllidacciT. Increased by seeds, and by bulbels. Ixora. RubiaceLr. Seeds. Usually increased by short-jointed green cut- tings placed in a close frame with a strong bottom heat. Jacaranda. BignoniaceiT. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots may be made in early summer and placed in sand over sandy peat, in heat, and kept shaded. Also seeds. JACOBEAN LILY — JUGLANS. 259 Jacobsean Lily. See Amaryllis. Jacobinia. See Justicia. Jasminum (Jasmine, Jessamine). Olcacccr. Sometimes by seeds, but usually by cuttings of the nearly ripened wood, under glass. Cuttings of ripe wood are also employed, and layers are often used. Jatropha. Euphoi-biaa-LC. Cuttings made of firm young shoots will strike in sandy soil in a strong bottom heat. The cuttings, if very fleshy, may be dried a few days before setting them. Jeffersonia. ruTbciidaccar. Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, or divisions may be made. Jerusalem Artichoke (Girasole). See Artichoke. Jessamine, Yellow. See Gelsemium. Jonquil. See Narcissus. Jubsea (Cocjuito Palm of Chili). Palmaceiz. Propagation is effected by seeds. Judas-tree. See Cercis. , Juglans (Walnut and Pjutternut). Jiiglandacea:. All the species are readily propagated by means of stratified nuts. Do not allow the nuts to become dry. Artificial cracking should not be done. In stiff soils the seedlings are apt to produce a long tap-root which renders transplanting difficult after the first year or two. The tap- root may be cut by a long knife while the tree is growing, or the young seedling may be transplanted. Particular varieties are perpetuated by grafting or budding with any of the common methods ; but the skill of the grafter is more important than the method. In the north, they are sometimes worked indoors in pots. Common shield-bud- ding works well, if the sap is flowing freely in the stock. Flute-budding is often employed. The improved native sorts are root-grafted in winter. Old trees can be top- grafted like apple trees (see page 123). If nursery stocks are grafted, it is usually best to insert the cions below ground, as for grapes. In all walnut grafting, it is gen- erallv preferred that only one scarf or cut of the cion should traverse the pith. It is very important that the cions be kept perfectly dormant. 260 THE NURSERY LIST. The " En.EjIish " walnut {/. rcgia) is mostly grown direct from seed in this country, and the different varieties usu- ally come true. In California, the native walnut (/. Cah- foniica) is often used as a stock for this species, and flute- budding on branches a half-inch or more in diameter is often practised. Twig- or prong-budding (Fig. 96) is sometimes employed. Jujube (Zi-yphus Jiijubc). Rhamnacea:. Seeds and cuttings. Juncus (Rush, Bulrush). Jiiiicacea:. Seeds. The perennials may be increased by division. Scirpus TahenitDuonlaniis varicgatus of florists is a form of Juncus cffusus, and is increased by division ot the stools. Juneberry [Ainclanchicr oblongifolia ). Rosacdr. Increased by using the sprouts which form freely about the old plants ; also by seeds. The cultivated dwarf [une- berry is nuiltiplied by suckers. See Amelanchier. Juniperus 1 juniper. Red Cedar, Savin). Coiiifcra:. Increased readily by seeds, which, however, often lie dormant until the second year. Red cedar seed is one of the species which lie dormant a year. They germinate more readily if the pulp is removed by maceration or by soaking with ashes for a few days. Green cuttings, in sand under .glass, root easily ; or mature cuttings ma\ be taken in fall and placed in a coldframe, in which they will need little protection during winter. Some varieties require a long time to root. Most of the named varieties may be grafted on imported Irish stocks, which are much used in some parts of the country. They may be veneer- gralted and handled in a cool house. Justicia, including Jacobinia and Sericographis. Acantliacecv. Seeds occasionally. The species strike readily from short green cuttings on a cutting-bench or under a frame. Kadsura, Sarcocarpon. Slagnoliaccic. Seeds. Cuttin.gs, made of nearly ripened shoots, which should be placed in sand under glass. Kaki. See Persimmon. KALANCHOE — KNIPHOFIA. 26I Kalanchoe. Crassulacccr. Propagated by seed, but cuttings, when obtainaole, are better. Kale {Brassica olcracea, vars. ). Crucijcrix. By seeds, sown in tlie open in spring in the north, or in the fall in the south. Kalmia (Mountain Laurel, Calico-bush). Ericacccr. May be increased by seeds, which should be sown in shallow pans of sandy peat or sphagnum, and kept in a coldframe until the seedlings are large enough to trans- fer to the open air after being hardened off By cuttings of young shoots in sandy peat, placed in a shady situation under a hand-glass (with much difficulty). Also by lay- ers. Usually obtained from the wring or summer, or cuttings of rather firm side shoots may be made at the same time, and ])laced in peaty soil, in a close, warm frame. Kentia. Pahnacea:. Increased by seeds, placed in light, sandy soil, with heat. Kentucky Coffee-tree. See Gymnocladus. Kerria. Rosacea:. Propagated by divisions, layers, and by cuttings of young shoots, inserted under a hand-light, or by ripened cuttings. In this country, oftener increased by ripe wood in fall. Kleinhovia. StemUiacecu. .Seeds. Make cuttings of the young ripened shoots, and place in sand, in heat, under glass. Klugia. Gesneracecc. Seeds. Propagated usually by cuttings. Knightia. Proteacea. Make cuttings of ripened shoots with upper leaves on, and place in sandy soil under glass, in a very gentle bot- tom heat. Kniphofia, Tritoma. Liliacea. Increased by seeds, or by divisions of the crown in early spring. R 262 THE NURSERY LIST. Kcelreuteria. Sapindacea:. Propagated in spring by seed, by layers in autumn, and by cuttings of the young shoots in spring ; also by root- cuttings. Krameria. Polygalacecc. Cuttings, set in sand under glass, in spring. Seeds. Kumquat {Citrus Japonica). Ridacca:. Worked on stocks of orange f which see). Laburnum (Golden Chain). LcguminoscT. The species may be increased by seeds. Layers and suckers are often used. The varieties Ijy grafting or bud- ding on the common sorts. See C>tisus. Lachenalia. Liliaccir. Seeds. Bulbels. Lselia. Orchidaceix. Increased by pseudo-bulbs, as in cattleya. See also under Orchids. Lagerstroemia (Crape Myrtle), Lytliracar. Seeds, Layers. Cuttings of firm, small side shoots may be made in spring, and placed in bottom heat. Lagetta (Lace Bark). Thymcltracccr. L'sually increased by cuttings of firm shoots, placed in santl under glass, in bottom heat. Lantana. I'erbenacecc. Seeds, which give new varieties. Cuttings, in fall or spring, from good growing wood, in sand in a warm house or frame. Lapageria, Phcenocodon. Liliacccr. Sow seeds as soon as ripe in a sandy peat soil, and keep in a moderate heat. Increased by layers of firm, strong shoots. Larix (Larch, Tamarack). ConifercT. Seeds should be kept dry over winter and planted earlv in spring. Shade the young plants. \'arieties, as the weeping sorts, are worked upon common stocks. The grafting may be done by the whip method, outdoors earlv in spring. Rare sorts are sometimes veneer-grafted under glass. LARKSPUR LEDUM. 263 Larkspur. See Delphinium. Lasiandra. IMcIastomacea:. Propagated by cuttings of the growing wood under glass. Lasiopetalum. Stcrculiacece. Seeds, Make cuttings in spring of the half-ripened wood, and insert in sand, under glass. Latania. See Livistona. Lathyrus (Sweet Pea, Vetchling). Leguminosa: . Seeds, sown very early in the open. The perennials also by seeds, sometimes by division. The sweet pea may be sown before frosty weather is passed, and south of Norfolk it is usualh- satisfactory if sown in the fall. The everlasting pea [L. latifolius) is increased by seeds, divi- sion and cuttings. Lattice-leaf. See Ouvirandra. Laurel, Mountain. See Kalmia. Laurus (Laurel). Lauracct^. Increased by seeds, layers, and by cuttings, placed under a hand-glass in sandy soil. Also propagated by root-cuttings. Laurestinus. See Viburnum. Lavandula (Lavender). Labiatcc. Divisions. When the flowers are fully e.xpanded, cut- tings may be made. These should be inserted in sandy soil, under a frame. Lawsonia. LythracecT . Increased by cuttings of ripened shoots, placed in sand under a glass, in heat. Layia. Coinpositts. Increased by seeds, sown in a hotbed, or in the open border in the south. Leaf-Beet, or Cliard. See Beet. Ledum (Labrador Tea), Ericacece. Propagated by seeds and divisions, but principally by layers, in sandy peat soil. 264 THE NURSERY LIST. Leek (Allium Porrjim). Liliaccrr. Seeds, sown very early in the spring, either outdoors or in a coldframe. Leiophyllum (Sand Myrtle). Ericaceir. May be freely increased by seeds, sown in pans and placed in a frame. By layers in autumn. Lemon ( Cilnis J/t'dica, var. Liuwn). Rutacccc. The named sorts are budded upon either orange or lemon stocks. Orange stocks are probably most gener- ally preferred, as they are adapted to a great variety of soils, and vigorous trees nearly always result. The bud- ding is performed in the same manner as upon the Oran.ge, which see. Lemons are often grown from cuttin,gs of the mature wood, which are set in the open ground as soon as the spring becomes warm, or in a frame. Stocks lor bud- ding upon are sometimes grown from cuttings in this way. Lentil (Erinim^ various species). Legumiiiosa:. Seeds, sown in early spring. Leonotis ( Lion's Ear, Lion's Tail). LabiaUc. Seeds. Increased by cuttings, which root freely in a gentle bottom heat, in early spring. Leont ice . Bcrhci id a car. May be increased by seeds or by suckers. Leontopodium (Edelweiss, Lion's Foot). Coutposita:. May annually be raised from seeds, or the old plants may be divided in spring. The seeds must be keprt in a dry place throughout the winter. Lepachys. See Rudbeckia. Leptosyne. Coniposilic. Propagated by seeds. Lessertia. Lcguminoscc. Propagation by seeds, or by divisions in spiing. Lettuce \Lactiica saliva). CouiposiUr. Seeds, u'hich may be sown under glass or in the open. In the middle and southern states, the seeds may be sown in the fall, and the plants protected during cold by a mulch ; or the plants may grow during winter in the warmer countries. LEUCOtUM LILY -OF- THE- VALLEY. 265 Leucoium (Snowflake). Ainaryllidaccy means of sucl-iers, «'hich spring from the roots. Nut-trees. See the various genera, as Ahiiond, Chestnut, Hicoria, Juglans and Pecan. Nymphsa, Castalia (Water Lily, Lotus). NymphiracciT. Seeds, which are rolled up in a ball of clay and dropped into a pond, or sown in ]iots which are then submerged in shallow w.iter. either indoors or out. Usually increased by portions of the rootstocks, which are sunk in the pond and held by stones, or the tender species placed inside, in pans of water. Some species produce tubers on the root- stocks, which are used for propagation. Nyssa (Pepperidge, Sour Gum, Tupelo-tree). Cornaccir. Increased by seeds and by layers. The seeds sliould be sown as soon as ripe or else stratified. They usually lie dormant the first year. Oak. .See Ouercus. Obeliscaria. See Rudbeckia. Ochna. Ochnacea'. During summer, cuttings may be made of growing shoots. Odontoglossum. Oirliidaccir. Division. See also under Orchids. (Enothera, including Godetia (E\-ening Primrose). Ona- gi'aci'ir. Seeds may be sown in spring or summer. Divisions may be made. Cuttings of perennials should be placed in a cool frame in the early part of the season before flow- ering begins. Okra, Gumbo (Hibiscus t'5iulc?iiiis). Mali'acccr. Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand, or started in pots often in the north. Olax. (Jlacindr. Grown from cuttings of firm or mature shoots in heat. OLEA — ONION. 281 Olsa. Oleacece. The ornamental species are grown from cuttings of ripened shoots, either under frames or in the border, and also by seeds. For propagation of O. Europica, see Olive Oleander. See Nerium. Oleaster. See Ek'eagniis. Olive (Olea Europa;a). Oleacea;. Tlie olive is grown in large quantities from seed, espe- cially in Europe. The pulp is removed by maceration or by treating with potash. The pits should be cracked or else softened by soaking in strong lye, otherwise they will lie dormant for one or two years. Cuttings of any kind will grow. Limbs, either young or old, an inch or two inches in diameter, and from i to 2 feet long, are often stuck into the ground where the trees are to .grow, or they are sometimes used in the nursery. Green cuttings, with the leaves on, are often used, being handled in frames or in bo.xes of sand. Chips from old trunks, if kept warm and moist, will grow. The olive is often propagated by truncheons of trunks. A trunk 2 or 3 inches in diameter is cut into foot or two-feet lengths, and each length is split through the middle. Each half is planted horizontally, bark up, 4 or 5 inches deep, in warm moist soil. The sprouts which arise may be allowed to grow, or they may be made into green cuttings. Knaurs (see page 64) are sometimes used. The olive can be budded or grafted in a variety of ways. Twig-budding and plate or H-budding {Figs. 96, 97. 98) give admirable results, and are probal)ly the best methods. Twig-budding is the insertion of a small growing twig which is cut from the branch in just the manner in which shield-buds are cut. (Fig. 96.) Side- grafting is also successful. (Fig. 113.) Omphalodes, Picotia. Borraginacea: . Freely increased by means of seeds planted in spring, or by division. Oncidium. OrcJiidacece . Division. In some species detachable buds are pro- duced in the inflorescence, and these give young plants. (See also under Orchids.) Onion {Allium Cepa and A. fistulostcm]. JAliaccce. Onions are mostly grown from seeds, which must be 282 THE NURSERY LIST. sown as early as possible in spring ; or in the south they may be sown in the fall. They are also grown from "tops," which are bulblets borne in the flower cluster. These are planted in the spring, or in the fall in mild cli- mates, and they soon grow into large bulbs. "Sets " are also used. These are very small onions, and when planted they simply complete their growth into large bulbs. Sets are procured by sowing seeds very thickly in poor soil. The bulbs soon crowd each other, and growth is checked, causing them to ripen prematurely. Good sets should not be more than a-half inch in diameter. Very small onions which are selected from the general crop — called " rare-ripes " — are sometimes used as sets, but they are usually too large to give good results. Some onions — the "multiplier" or "potato onions" — increase theinselves by division of the bulb. The small bulb, which is planted in the spring, splits up into several distinct portions, each one of which will multiply itself in the same manner when planted the following year. Onobrychis (Saintfoin). Lcguinitiosa:. Seeds, sown in spring where the plants are to remain. Onosma (Golden Drop). Borraginacccr. Seeds, sown in the open in spring. Perennial species by cuttings in summer. Opuntia (Prickly Pear, Indian Fig). Cadacea:. Seeds grow readily, sown as soon as ripe in ordinary sandy soil, either in the house or outdoors. The joints grow readily if laid on sand. It is customary to allow these cuttings to dry several days before planting them. See also Cactus. Orach [Atriplex hortcnsis). ChenopodiacccF. Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand. Orange {Citrus Aunuitiuin, etc.). Riitacco'. Orange stocks are grown from seeds, which should be cleaned and stratified in sand or other material, until sow- ing time. The seeds should not be allowed to become hard and dry. Some prefer to let the seeds sprout in the sand and then sow them in the nursery, but they must be carefully handled. The seeds are usually sown in seed beds, after the manner of apple seeds, and the seedlings are transplanted the next fall or spring into nursery rows. Care must always be exercised in handling orange plant/* ORANGE. 283 Orailg"e, continued. as they are often impatient of transplanting. Oranges grow readily from cuttings, although cuttage is not often practiced. Green cuttings, handled under a frame, give good results. Mature wood, either one or two years old, can be treated after the manner of long grape cuttings. They must have an abundance of moisture. Layers are sometimes made. The named varieties are shield-budded upon other stocks. Grafting can be practiced, but it is often unsatis- factory. The nursery stocks are commonly budded in the spring, after having grown in the rows one year, which is two years from the sowing of the seed. If thorn-bearing varieties are to be propagated, a thorn with a bud in its axil is often cut with the bud, to serve as a handle in place of the leaf-stalk, which is used in summer budding. Many stocks are used for the orange. The leading ones are sweet or common orange, sour orange {Ciiriis Auran- tiuin^ var. Bigaradia), pomelo {Citrus deaimana) , Ota- heite orange, trifoliate orange ( Citrus, or yEgle, trifoli- ata), and various lemons, as the "French" or Florida Rough and the Chinese. For general purposes, the sweet and sour orange .stocks are probably the best. The sour stock is obtained from wild seeds, this variety having extensively run wild in Florida from early times. The trifoliate and Otaheite stocks are used for dwarfing or for small growing sorts, as many of the Japanese varieties. The trifoliate orange is also one of the hardiest of the orange stocks, and its use will probably increase upon the northern limit of the orange belt. Old orange trees can be top-budded with ease. It is advisable to cut them back a year before the operation is performed, in order to secure young shoots in which to bud. In ordinary greenhouse practice, the seedlings of the pomelo make good stocks. They can be established in three-inch pots the first season, and veneer-grafted the next winter. The Rowell method of propagating the orange (so named for William M. Rowell, Fort Meade, Florida, its inventor) is thus described by a local Florida newspaper (Bartow Courier-Informant, 1891) : "Mr. Rowell's process is almost startling in novelty, yet it is very simple. Briefly stated, it is about as follows : Cuttings \i to >2 inch in diameter and 10 or 12 inches long, are taken from any healthy citrus tree, and buds of any desired variety are put in them. This is done in the house or barn, and as the cuttings are budded they are 284 THE NURSERY LIST. Orange, concluded. placed in boxes and lightly covered with dirt. There they remain until wanted for planting. The cuttings will form roots, but the buds will remain dormant until the cuttings are transplanted, whether that be three weeks or three years. "When planting in grove form, the cuttings are placed in a vertical position if seedling trees are to be imitated, or in an almost horizontal position if it be the grower's intention to plant close and produce small trees ; and when the object is to dwarf the trees, the cuttings are almost inverted. In either case, the cutting is entirely covered with dirt, except the portion occupied by the bud, which is protected by a small cylinder of zinc, 2 or 3 inches long, which is fitted to the cutting and protrudes through the soil, giving light and air to the bud. This is removed, however, when the bud attains a height of 10 or 12 inches, and the soil is then drawn up around the bud. The subsequent cultivation is the same as with trees propagated in the usual way. Mr. Rowell has applied for a patent on the tube. "Now for results. Mr. Rowell has a grove which has been produced by his method. It is on new pine land that has never been cowpenned or fertilized in any way. The grove is now yielding its first crop — over 300 oranges to the tree in some instances — and is only three years old. The public is invited to inspect these trees and compare them with any well cared-for seeedlings six years old. There are some other advantages claimed for this system of propagation which we cannot now point out. "Mr. Rowell has Japan persimmons budded in the same way." Orchids. Orchidacea:. The method of propagating these plants must in each species be adapted to the habit and mode of growth. The easiest and safest plan for the vast majority is by division, but seeds, cuttings, layers, offsets, and \"ery rarely roots, are also utilized. It is important that artificial means of increase should only be adopted where the individual plants are in robust health. With many orchids the strug- gle of life under the unnatural conditions we supply, is necessarily severe, and any operation which transforms one weak plant into two or more weaker ones, is to be deprecated. In cases where the only method available necessitates disturbance at the roots, consideration must ORCHIDS. 285 Orchids, continued. be paid to the constitution of the species, for some orchids, even when perfectly healthy, strongly resent interference. Seeds. — In no class of cultivated plants is propagation by seeds more difhciilt and tedious than it is with orchids. In all cases, fertilization must be performed by hand. In England, the length of time required for the capsules to ripen varies from three months to a year. Good seeds form a very small proportion of the whole, and it occa- sionally happens that the contents of a capsule will not produce a single plant. This, however, as well as the dif- ficulty experienced in England in rearing plants to the flowering stage, is primarily due to the deficiency of sun- light, and in such a bright climate as that of the United States, would not be likely to occur. Various methods of sowing are in vogue, sucli as sprinkling over pieces of wood and cork or tree-fern stem, and on the top of moss and peat, in which established plants of the same or a nearly related species are growing. The last is probably the best, but it is always advisable to try several methods. Of course, the material on which the seeds are scattered must always be kept moist and shaded. The period be- tween germination and the development of the first root is the most critical in the life of a seedling orchid. After they are of sufficient size to handle they are potted off into tiny pots, and as they gain strength, are given treatment approximating that of adult plants. Division. — Cypripediums maybe taken as an example where this is readily done. It is simply necessary to care- fully shake off the soil from the roots, and by the aid of a sharp knife, sever the plant into as many pieces as are re- quired. It is always advisable to leave one or more lead- ing growths to each portion. This method may be prac- ticed for the increase of phaius, masdevallia, sobralia, ada, the evergreen section of calanthe, and all of similar habit. In nearly all those kinds where the pseudo-bulbs are united by a procumbent rhizome, such as occurs in cat- tleyas, the process is slower. It seems to be natural for these plants to continue year after year, producing a single .growth from the old pseudo-bulb. To obtain additional "leads," the rhizomes should be cut through in early spring, two or three pseudo-bulbs being reserved to each piece. A bud will then push from the base of each pseudo-bulb nearest the division, and a new lead is formed. The pieces should not be separated until this is well established, and three years may sometimes be re- 286 THE NURSERY LIST. Orchids, concluded, quired. Lalia, catasetum, ccelogyne, lycaste, cymbidium, zygopetaluni, odontoglussum, oncidium, miltonia, etc., are treated in this manner. Cuttings. — Tills method is available for those kinds with long, jointed stems, like dendrobium and epidendrum. Just before the plants commence to grow, say in February, the old pseudo-bulbs are cut up into lengths, and laid on a moist, warm surface, such as a pan of moss in a propagat- ing frame. Young offshoots will shortly appear at the nodes, and when large enough are potted off with the old piece attached. This plan may be used also for barkeria and microstylis. It is well to remember that in any method of propaga- tion where the pseudo-bulb is divided, the vigor of the young plant is proportionate to the amount of reserve material supplied it. Howe\'er suitable the external con- ditions may be for growth, it is for some time entirely de- pendent for sustenance on the old piece from which it springs. Dendrobiujii Plialicitopns is a case in point. If a pseudo-bulb is cut into say three pieces, it will take at least two years for the young plants to reach flowering strength, but frequently, by using the entire pseudo-bulb, we can get in a single year a growth quite as large as the old one. The treatment of young orchids should be founded on what suits the parents. As a rule, however, they require more careful nursing, and some of the conditions must be modified. Drought, intense light and cold draughts must be avoided. For many orchids, especially those from equatorial regions, where the atmospheric conditions alternate between saturation and intense heat and dry- ness, it is necessary, in order to induce flowering", that nature, to some extent at least, should be imitated. With young plants, by whatever method they may be obtained, the supply of water must only be reduced in accordance with the weather and season, and beyond that, no at- tempt at resting made. In cases, however, where plants have been divided or made into cuttings, a very limited supply of water is needed at first ; but to prevent exhaus- tion, the atmosphere should always be kept laden with moisture, Oreopanax. Araliacea. Seeds, and cuttings of tlie young slioots, or division of well-established plants. ORNITHOGALUM OXYLOBIUM. 287 Ornithogalum (Star of Bethlehem). Li/iaca;. Seeds. Commonly by bulbels, and by division. Orobus (Bitter Vetch). Legnininosce. Readily propagated by seeds, or by dividing the tufts. Orontium. Aroidea;. Commonly increased by division, but seeds may be used. Orpine. See Sedum. Osage Orange. See Madura. Osier. See Salix and Cornus. Osmanthus (Japan Holly). OleacecB. Propagated by cuttings under glass, or by grafting on osmanthus stock, or on privet. Osmunda (Flowering Fern). Filices. Mostly by division ; sometimes by spores. See Ferns. Ostrowskia (Giant Bellwort). Campanulacea. Propagated in the same manner as the perennial cam- panulas, which see. Ostrya (Hop Hornbeam, Ironwood). CupuHfertz. Best grown from seeds. Also increased by layering ; or it can be grafted. The European species is often grafted upon the hornbeam (carpinus). Othonopsis, Othonna (Ragwort). Composite^. Very easily propagated by seeds and cuttings. The leaves also take root. Ouvirandra (Lattice-leaf). Naiadacecs. The plants are divided ; or seeds are used when they can be obtained. Oxalis Geraniacea. Seeds, divisions and cuttings. The tuberiferous species are increased by the small tubers upon the roots. Oxydendmm (Sorrel-tree). EriacacecE. Increased by seeds, which must be handled carefully in light soil. Also by layers, which, however, often root with difficulty. Oxylobium (Callistachys). Leguminosce. Cuttings of firm wood, in spring, under glass. 288 THE NURSERY LIST. Oxytropis. Leguininoscr. Seeds should be sown where the plants are to stand , also by dividing the plant in spring. Oyster Plant. See Salsify. PcEOny (Peony, Piney). Raniutculacece. Seeds, giving new varieties, are sown as soon as ripe. The seedlings seldom rise above the surface the first year, all their energies being spent in the formation ot roots. The common herbaceous varieties are oftenest propagated by division of the clumps. Each portion should possess at least one bud upon the crown. All woody species may be increased by layers and cuttings. Cuttings are taken late in summer, cut to a heel, and are handled in a frame or cool greenhouse. During winter they should be kept from freezing. The shrubby species and P. ISIoiitati are often grafted, and all species can be handled in this way. The operation is pierformed in late summer or earl\- au- tumn, and the grafts are stored in sand or moss where they will not freeze. The next spring they are planted out. The cion is made from a strong short shoot, desti- tute of flower buds, and is set upon a piece of root, as described on pages 128, 129. Some prefer to cut a wedge- shajied portion from the side of the stock, in which to in- lay the cion, rather than to split the stock ; but either prac- tice is good. Strong roots of various varieties or species may be used. The Chinese pffiony ( P. Jloiitan), P. offi- cinalis and P. albiftora are oftenest used. Paliurus, Aubletia ( Christ's Thorn ). RJiamnacea-. May be increased by seeds, by layers or by cuttings of the roots. Palma-Christi. See Ricinus. Palmetto. See Sabal, and Palms. Palms. Palmacear. Palms are mostly grown from imported seeds. These should always be sown in a brisk bottom heat, in a mix- ture of coarse loam and sand. A hotbed, established upon the greenhouse bench, is an excellent place in which to start palm seeds. Some species are increased bv suckers, which arise from the crown or roots. For more explicit directions, see the various genera. Pampas Grass. See Gynerium. PANAX PARSNIP. 289 Panax. See Ginseng. Pancratium and Hymenocallis. Amaryllidacece. Seeds, sown in pans in heat, are .sometimes employed. Commonly increased by offsets, which usually form freely. Pandanus (Screw Pine). Pajtdanacecr. Seeds and suckers, as in iialms. Also by cuttings of the young growth in heat. The " seeds " are really fruits, and if in good condition several plants, one to ten, are obtainable from each ; they should be separated when well furnished with roots. These seeds are easily ob- tained in the tropics, and are planted in moist black soil in beds or pots. When the plants appear, the little clumps are separated and the plantlets potted off. Pansy. See Viola. Papaver (Poppy). Papaveraceic. Seeds — usually sown outdoors — and divisions. P. ori- entalc and allied species are easily propagated by root- cuttings in sandy soil under glass in autumn. Papaw-tree. See Carica ; also Asimina. Papyrus. Cypcvacecc. Propagation by seeds and by divisions, chiefly the latter. Pardanthus. See Belamcanda. Paris. Liliacccr. bicreased by seeds or by divisions. Paris Daisy. See .Marguerite. Parkinsonia. Lcgiiminosa:. Seeds mostly. Cuttings. Parnassia (Grass of Parnassus). Saxifragacea:. May be propagated by seeds or by divisions. Parrotia. HainanielidetrE. Increased by seeds or by layers. Parsley (Apiicni PetroseHnuin). Umbellifem. Seeds, which are usually sown outdoors. The roots may be taken up in fall to be forced under glass. Parsnip {Paslinaca sativa). Umbellifcrcc. Fresh seeds, sown where the plants are to stand. 2gO THE NURSERY LIST. Pasque-flower. See Anemone. Passiflora (Passion Flower). Passifloracccs. Seeds, sown under glass. Cuttings of the young growth root easih- in sand in a frame. X'arieties are sometimes veneer-grafted, f. g., P. coccinea. P. ccenilea propagates by root-cuttings. Paulownia. ScrophulariaccLr. Seeds, sown in carefully prepared soil, either in a seed bed or in a coldframe. Cuttings of ripe wood or of roots made in fall or spring. Pea (Pisinii.sativinn). Lcguininosa;. Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand. The plants are hardy and seeds may be sown very early. For Cow- Pea, see X'igna. Peach (PiiDiiis /^Tsit'a). Rosaceic. The peach is perhaps the easiest to propagate of all northern fruit trees. Stocks are universally grown Iron; seeds, although root-cuttings will grow. The seeds should be buried outdoors in the summer or fall, and shal- low enough so that they will be fully e.xposed to frost. Some prefer to simply spread them upon the surface of the ground and cover them lightly with straw to prevent them from drying out. The pits should be kept moist, and by spring most of them will be cracked. Those which do not open should be cracked by hand, for if planted they will not germinate until a year later than the others. In large nurseries, however, the cracking ol peach pits by hand is too expensive to be practiced. The "meats" or kernels are sorted out and planted early in drills. Some prefer to sprout the seeds in the house, in order to select the best for planting. Some growers upon a small scale pinch off the tip of the rootlet to make the root branch. Pits should be secured, of course, from strong and healthy trees, but the opinion that "natural seed," or that from unbudded trees, is necessarily best, is unfounded. The seeds should be planted in rich soil, and the stocks will be large enough to bud the same year. Any which are not large enough to bud may be cut back to the ground the ne.xt spring, and one shoot be allowed to grow for budding, but such small stocks are usually destroyed, as it does not pay to bestow the e.xtra labor and use of land upon them. When the buds have grown PEACH PEAR. 2gi one season, the trees are ready for sale — at one year from the bud and two years from the seed. Peach trees should never be more than a year old (from the bud) for orchard planting. June-budded trees are much used in the south (see page 103). Peach trees are always shield-budded, and the operation is fully described on pages gs^to 105. Grafting can be done, but as budding is so easily per- formed, there is no occasion for it. The peach shoots are so pithy that, in making cions, it is well to leave a portion of the old wood upon the lower end— extending part way up the cut— to give the cion strength. Peach wounds heal so slowly and imperfectly that grafting is never to be recommended. Peaches are nearly always worked upon peaches in this country. Plums are occasionally employed for damp and strong soils. Myrobalan plum is sometimes used, but it cannot be recommended. All plums dwarf the peach more or less. The hard-shell almond is a good stock for very light and dry soils. The Peen-to and similar peaches are worked upon common peach stocks. The ornamental peaches are budded upon common peach stocks in the same manner as the fruit-bearing sorts. The nectarine is propagated in e.\actly the same manner as the peach. For Primus Simoni, see Plum, Pea-nut. See Arachis. Pear, Alligator or Avocado. See Persea. Veax [Pynis I'oinjiiuiiis, P. Sinensis). Rosacea;. Pear seedlings are grown in the same manner as those of the apple, which see. Pear stocks are imported from France, however, as the leaf-blight is so destructive to them here as to render their culture unprofitable. This leaf-blight is a fungus {Enlomosporiiwi macu/aium), and recent experiment has shown that it can be readily over- come by four or five thorough sprayings with Bordeaux mixture, so that there is reason to hope that the growing of pear stocks may yet become profitable in this country, although the higher price of labor here, and the drier sum- mers, are serious disadvantages. Heretofore, the only means of mitigating the ravages of this blight was the uncertain one of inducing a strong growth early in the season. Even when pear stocks are raised in this coun- trv, they are grown from imported French seed. Aside 2g2 THE NURSERY LIST. Pear, continued, from its cheapness, however, this foreign seed probably possesses no superiority over domestic seed. But pear seed is so difficult to obtain in America that it is practi- cally out of the market. Seedlings of the sand pear type have been stron.gly recommended for stocks, but they do not attain general favor amongst nurserymen. Pear seedlings should be taken up and removed from the seed-bed tlie first fall. The foreign stocks are im- ported when a year old from the seed. The seedlings are trimmed and sometimes "dressed" (see page 96), and are set into nursery rows the following spring. The next sea- son — that is, the season in which the stocks are trans- planted — shield-budding is performed, as upon the apple, Tlie budding season usually begins late in July or early in August m the north. If the stocks are small, of "second size," they may stand over winter and be budded the second year. Pear trees are sold at two and three years from the bud. Pears do not succeed well when root- grafted, except when a long cion is used, for the purpose of securing own-rooted trees (see page no). Dormant buds of the pear may be used upon large stocks in early spring, the same as upon the apple and buds may be kept upon ice for use in early summer (see page 103). Pears are dwarfed by working them upon the quince. The Angers quince is the best stock. The ordinary orange quince and its kin general!}' make weak and short- lived trees. Quince stocks are obtained from ordinary cuttings or from mound-layering, the latter method ,gi\ing much the better stocks (see Quince), The layers should be removed the first autumn ; or, if they are not rooted then, thev may be left a year longer, when they will lie found to be well rooted, and may then be taken off, trimmed up and fitted to plant as stocks the following spring, and budded in August, Quince stocks are bought in Europe, whence they arrive in the fall. They are " dressed" and set in nursery rows the following spring, and the buds are set during the first season. It is im- perati\'e to set the bud as low as possible in order to se- cure trees which can easily be set deep enough to cover the union (4 to 6 inches below the surface is the common depth of planting dwarf pears). Some varieties do not unite well with the quince, and if it is desired to dwarf them, they should be double-worked (see i^age 133). Some of tile common and popular varieties which thrive directly upon the quince (without double working) are the PEAR — PECAN. 293 Pear, concluded. following ; Angouleme (Duchess), Anjou, Louise Bonne, Howell, White Doyenne (Virgalieu), Manning's Jilizabeth, Lawrence. Varieties which usually thrive better when double-worked are Clairgeau, Bartlett, Seckel, and others. The pear can also be grown upon the apple, thorn and mountain ash, LIpon the apple it is short-lived, although pear cions, set in the top of an old apple tree, often bear large fruits for a few years. When pear stocks cannot be had, pears are sometimes worked upon ajjple roots. If the cions are long they will emit roots, and when the ap- ple nurse fails the pear becomes own-rooted. Good dwarf trees are often secured upon the thorn, and there is reason to believe that some of the thorns will be found to be preferal-ile to (piince stocks for severe climates and for special purposes. The subject is little understood. The mountain ash is sometimes used for the purpose of growing pears upon a sandy soil, but its use appears to be of little consequence. Pears of the Le Conte and Kiefl'er type are often grown from cuttings in the south. Cuttings are made of the re- cent mature growth, about a foot in length, and are planted in the open ground, after the manner of long grape cuttings. Le Conte, Garber, Smith, and other very strong growers of the Chinese type, are probably best when grown from cuttings. They soon overgrow French stocks, as also apple stocks, which have been used to some e.xtent ; but if long cions are used, own-rooted trees are soon obtained, and the stock will have served a use- ful purpose in pushing the cion the first two or three years. Pecan (Hicoria Pecan). Jtifflandacetr. Propagated by seeds. These may be planted as soon as ripe, or stratified until spring. The ground should be well prepared, and the nuts planted about 3 inches deep. By grafting on pecan or common hickory stock that is not over 2 vears old. Cions about 6 inches long should be cut during the winter and put in a cool place to hold them back until the stocks have fairly started in the spring. The stalks should then be cut off at (or prefera- bly 3 to 6 inches below) the crown, and the cwn inserted. The tongue-graft gives the best result, although, as in all nuts, the skill of the grafter is more important than the method. Bandage securely, and bank with earth nearly to the top of the cion, to keep it moist. It can also be 1 294 THE NURSERY BOOK. budded, like peaches. The pecan and other hickcies will also grow from cuttings of the ends of the soft grow- ing roots. See Hicoria. Pelargonium (Geranium, Stork's Bill). Gcvaniacece. Seeds, sown in light soil with mild heat, are sometimes employed. Commonly increased by cuttings of firm shoots, which grow readily (Figs. 69 c, and 73). The common geraniums, for conservatory use, should be re- newed from cuttings every year. The fancy or show gera- niums are often grown from root-cuttings, but sometimes will not come true. Geraniums can also be grafted. (See page 130, herbaceous grafting.) Pelecyphora (Hatchet Cactus). Cactacecc. Pro]3agated most freely by seeds in moderate heat, and by cuttings made of any small shoots that arise from the base. See also Cactus. Peltandra. Aroidca-. Propagated by seeds when fresh, or by division. Pennyroyal (Moilha Pulcgiuni). Labiatcz;. Seeds and division. Pentstemon (Beard-tongue). Scrophulariacca:. Seeds, sown in pans and placed under a frame ; or they are sometimes sown in the border where the plants are to stand. Also by division, and rarely by cuttings in summer. Peony. See Paeonia. Peperomia, including Micropiper. Pipcracecr. Seeds. Cuttings of single joints of firm stems ro ■' easily in a peaty soil. Water sparingly. Pepper, Black. .See Piper. Pepperidge. See Nyssa. Pepper-grass, Curled Cress { Lepidium salivum). Crucifei-cr. Grown from seeds, either under glass for early crops or in the open air. Peppermint {Mentha piperita). Labiatcc. Divisions of the creeping and rooting stems are planted to multiply the plant, and plantations are renewed every three or four years. PEPPER PETALOSTEMON. 295 Pepper, Red or Cayenne (Capsicum). Solanacecs. Seeds, sown outdoors, or in the north oftener started in the house. Pereskia (Barbadoes Gooseberry). Cactacea:. Seeds. Cuttings, as described under Cactus. P. acu- leata is mucli used as a stocl< tor epiphyllums. P. Blco is sometimes used for the same purpose, as it is fully as good as the other species. Cuttings of P. aciilcala can be made a foot or more in length, and of sufficient size for immediate use ; or, the graft may be inserted when the cutting is made. Perilla. /.abiafir. Sow the seeds in early spring in pans or boxes, and place in a gentle heat. Or southwards, seeds may be sown m the open. Periploca. Asclepiadacece. Seeds. Increased mostly by layers or cuttingr. under glass, during summer or autumn. Root cuttings succeed. , Periwinkle. See Vinca. Persea (Alligator or Avocado Pearl. Lauraceo". Seeds. Layers of ripened shoots may be made in au- tumn ; or cuttings of firm shoots in spring, under glass. Persimmon (/^zoj^jTOj- Kaki '6X\<\ D . Virgmiana.) Ebenacetz. Stocks are readily grown from seed, and they usually attain sufficient size for buddmg the first year. The na- tive persimmon (Diospyrus Virginiana) is largely used as a stock for the Japanese persimmon or kaki. Imported stocks are occasionally employed, but the native is more vigorous, as a rule, and probaVjly belter. Persimmons are shield-budded the same as peaches, and they may be root-grafted and top-grafted by ordinary methods. The Rowell method of propagating Japanese persimmons is described under Orange. Peraoonia (Linkia). Proteacce. Propagated by cuttings of the ripened shoots_ under glass. Peruvian Bark. See Cinchona. Petalostemon ( Prairie Clover). I.eginiiinoscE. Seeds and divisions. 29"^ THE NURSERY LIST. Petunia. Solanacea:. Seeds, either indoors or in the garden. Choice and double varieties are often increased b}' cuttings, which grow readily. Phacelia, Eutoca, Whitla\'ia. HydropJiyllacecc. The annuals are increased by seeds, and the perennials by seeds and division. Phaiua. Orchidacecc. Division of the bulbs. See also under Orchids. PhalEenopsis. Orchidacca:. These are very slow and difficult to propagate. In the majority of the species it can only be done where a lateral offshoot is made from the main stem. Some species, such as P. Liiddcmanniana, and more rarely P. amabilis, P. Sliiartiana and P. Schilleriana, develop plantlets on the old flower scapes. By pegging these down on a basket of moss they may fje established and afterwards sepa- rated. P. Stiiartiaiia and P. dcliciosa have been known to produce plants on the roots. Other instances of root- proliferation are recorded in Saccolabiinn inicraiilhutn and a species of cyrtopodium. See under Orchids. Phalaris. GraininecF. Propagated by seeds, but the sports or varieties by division. Phaseolus (Bean, Kidney, Pole, String, Lima, French Bean, etc.). Lcguinitioscc. The ornamental greenhouse kinds are grown from seeds planted in light soil in a warm propagating house. See Bean. Phellodendron (Cork Tree). Rutaccir. Increased by seeds, layers, and by root cuttings. Philadelphus (Mock Orange, Syringa). Sax-ifragacca. Seeds, layers, suckers, and cuttings. Layers are some- times used. Cuttings of mature wood are generally em- ployed. Some well-marked varieties, like vars. nana and aurea of P. coronarius, are grown from cuttings of soft wood in summer in frames. Phillyrea (Jasmine Box, Mock Privet). Olcacca;. Seeds. May be propagated by cuttings, layers, or by grafting on the privet. PHILODENDRON — PHYSALIS. Zgy Philodendron. AroideiT. Increased by seeds ; and by dividing the stems, allow- ing two or tliree joints to eacli piece, inserting them in pots in a brisk heat. Phlomis. Labiates. All of the species may be increased by seeds ; the her- baceous kinds by division, and the shrubby sorts also by cuttings. Phlox. Polemoniacea. The annuals are grown from seeds sown in the open. The perennials are grown from seeds, divisions, cuttings of stems and roots. Cuttings made during summer, and handled in a frame, do well. The roots are cut into short pieces, and are then handled in pans or flats under cover. Phoenix. See Date. Phormium iFla.x Lily, or New Zealand Fla.x). Liliacccr. Seeds. Also by division of the crowns before growth commences in spring. Photinia, including Eriobotrya. Rosacees. Stratified seeds or half-ripened cuttings under glass. Varieties of loquat, P. Japonica, are grown from layers or cuttings of ripe wood ; it is also worked upon seedling stocks or upon thorn or quince, after the manner of pears. Phyllanthus, including Xylophylla. Euphorhiacea:. Increased by means of cuttings of hard shoots in heat. Phyllocactus, including Phyllocereus and Disocactus (Leaf Cactus). Cactaccee. Seeds germinate readily in sandy soil. Usually in- creased by cuttings of the stems, 5 or 6 inches long, placed in sandy soil, which is kept only slightly moist. See also Cactus. Phyllocladus. Conifercc. Cuttings of the ripened shoots under .glass, in spring. When the cuttings begin callusing, give mild bottom heat. Physalis (Ground or Winter Cherry, Strawberry Tomato, Husk Tomato). Sola?iacea'. Seeds, sown outdoors or under cover. Perennials by division and soft cuttings. 2g» THE NURSERY LIST. Phyteuma, Rapunculus (Horned Rampion). Campanu/acecr. Easily increased by seeds or by division, in spring. Phytolacca (Spoke, Skoke, Poke). Phytolaccacea;. May be propagated by means of seeds, or by division. Picea ( Spruce). Conifera:. Propagated by seeds, sometimes by layers, or grafts. Seedlings must be shaded tire first year. Also by cut- tings of recent wood (Fig. 67 and page 64). The spruces are easily grafted. P. e.xcelsa (Norway spruce) makes a good stock ; the veneer-graft, under glass, in winter, succeeds better than any method of outdoor work prac- ticable in our climate ; if the graft is inserted near the base in young plants, it is quite possible to obtain them on their own roots after a few transplantings. Side shoots can be used as cions, and if started in time will furnish good leaders ; sometimes a leader is developed more rapidly by bending the plant over at nearly a right angle, when a stout bud may start from the stem. The Balsam fir is also a good stock. See Abies. Pickerel Weed. See Pontederia. Picotee. See Dianthus and Carnation. Pie-plant. See Rheum. Pilea (.\rtillery Plant, Stingless Nettle). L'rticacecr. .May be increased by seeds, division or cuttings, com- monly the last. Pilocereus. See Cactus. Pimpernel. See Anagallis. Pinanga. Palmacea:. Propagated by seeds. Pinckneya. Ritbiacca;. Seeds. Cuttings of the ripened shoots under glass. Pine-apple i Ananas sa/iviis). Bromeliacece. Pine-apples very rarely produce seeds, but when they are produced they are sown for the purpose of obtaining new varieties. The pine-apple is usually increased by suckers and "crowns." If the root is left in the ground after the pine is removed, suckers will start from it. The root is then taken up and cut into as many pieces as there are suckers, each piece being then permanently planted. PINEY — PI(5UERIA. 2gg The crown of the fruit and the various offsets or "crown- lets," which ajipear on the sides and base of the fruit, may be removed and used as cuttin.tfs. These offsets are commonly used in greenhouse propagation. It is the usual practice to allow them to dry several days before they are planted, and in pine-apple regions they are oiten exposed to the sun for several weeks. This operation is unnecessary, however, although it is not objectionable. A good way to start the offsets is to pull off the lowest leaves and insert the offsets in damp moss in shade— giv- ing bottom heat for greenhouse work - and as soon as roots l^egin to form, which will occur in from two to six weeks, plant them out permanently. In the tropics fruit can be obtained in twenty months after the offsets are transplanted ; but fruit bearing is often delayed three or four years under poor treatment. Piney. See Pceonia. Pinguicula (Butterwort). Leyitibulariacece . The hardy and greenhouse species are increased by seeds, division, or by leaf cuttings. Pink {Diaiithus, various species). CaiyophyllacecF. Seeds and division. Best results by raising plants from seed every two or three years. Seeds are usually sown where the plants are to remain ; or they may be sown in a coldframeand transplanted. See Carnation and Dianthus. Pinus(Fine). Conifem. Seeds, which should be kept dry over winter, are com- monly employed. These are often started in pots, but for most species they are sown in well prepared beds out- doors. The seedlings must usually be shaded the first season. Varieties, as also species which do not produce seed freely, may be grafted upon stocks of white or Aus- trian pine or other species. This grafting may be done upon the tips of growing shoots early in the season (page 131), but it is oftener performed upon potted plants by the veneer method. Piper, Cubeba (Pepper, Cubeb). Piperacea. Seeds. All are increased by means of cuttings of the growing shoots, inserted in sandy soil under glass. Piqueria. Composita;, Piqueria trinervia (the Stevia serrala of florists) is gen- erally grown from cuttings, like fuchsias and carnations. Also by seeds, which are freely produced. 3O0 THE NURSERY LIST. Pistacia. AnutaydiaLeLe Seeds, cuttiiiifs and layers. Tlie pistacio-nut or "green almond" ( /-'. vera) is usually grown from seeds, which are planted where the trees are to stand. It is sometimes grafted tipiin P. Terehiii/hiis, to give it greater vigor. Pitcairnia. See Billbergia. Pitcher-plant. See Nepenthes and Sarracenia. Pittosporum. Pi/tosporaceor. Seeds, and by cuttings of the growing '.)r ri|ie wood, under glass. Planera (Planer-tree). UrticacecF. Propagated by seeds, which should l)c handled like elm seeds. Plane-tree. See Platanus. Plantago (Plantain). Plaii/affiiiaceiT. Seeds. The perennial species also Vjy ilivisinn. Plantain (fruit). See Banana; also Musa. Platanus (Plane-tree, Buttonwood ; .Sycanmre, improperly). J'/ataiiacece. Usually propagated by seeds, but layers and ripe-wood cuttings may be employed. Platycerium (.Stag's-Horn Fern). Fi/ices. Chiefly by division. See Ferns. Platycodon, Wahlenbergia. Cainpatmlacccr. Propagated bv seeds, and, when old plants .are obtain- able, by division. Plectocomia. Pahiiaccir. Seeds. May be increased by suckers. Plum ( Pniiius, many species). Rosacccc. There are so many species of plums in cultiv.ation, an.d the varieties ot the same species are often su ditlerent m constitution and habit, that it is difhcult to give advice concerning their propagation. All the species grow read- ily from fresh, well-ripened seeds. The pits should be removed from the pulp and then stratified until spring. If they are allowed to Ireeze, the germination will be more uniform, as the pits will be more easily opened by the swelling embryo. Plum pits are rarely cracked by PLUM. 301 Plum, continued. hand. The strong-growing species and varieties, espe- cially southwards, will give stocks strong enough to bud the lirst season ; bnt the weaker ones must stand until the next season after the seeds are planted. In all the north ern states, however, plum pits are usually sown in seed- beds, in the same manner as apple and pear seeds. The seedlings are taken up in tlie fall, and the following spring set out in nursery rows, where they are budded in August. Plums are e.xtensively grown from suckers, which spring in great numbers from the roots of many species. In France this method of propagation is largely used. So long as graftage does not intervene, the sprouts will repro- duce the v.iriety ; and even in grafted or budded trees this sometimes occurs, but it is probably because the tree has become own-rooted from the rooting of the cion. It is a common notion that trees grown from suckers sprout or sucker worse than those grown from seeds. Layers are also sometimes employed for the propagation of the plum. Strong stools (page 39) are grown, and the long and strong shoots are covered in spring throughout their length— the tips only being exposed— and every bud will produce a plant. Strong shoots of vigorous sorts will give plants strong enough the first fall to be removed into nursery rows. Mound-layering is also employed with good results. Root cuttings, handled like those of black- berry, grow readily, but some growers suppose that they produce trees which sucker badly. Many plums grow readily from cuttings of the mature recent wood, treated the same as long .grape cuttings. This is especially true of the Marianna (which is a form of Myrobalan, or a hybrid of it and some native plum of the Wild Goose type), which is grown almost exclusively from cuttings. Some sorts of the common garden plum (P. doviesfica) also grow from cuttings. Plums are worked in various ways, but ordinary shield- budding is usually employed in late summer or early fall, as for peaches and cherries. Root-grafting by the com- mon whip method is sometimes employed, especially when own-rooted trees are desired (pages 109, no). In the north and east, the common plum (!'■ doniestica) is habitually worked upon stocks of the same species, and these are always to be preferred. These stocks, if seedlings, are apt to be very variable in size and habit, and sometimes half or more of any batch, even from selected seeds, are practically worthless. Stocks from inferior or constant 302 THE NURSERY LIST. Flam, continued. varieties are, therefore, essential. Sucli stocks are largely imported ; but there are some varieties wiiich can oc relied upon in this country. One of the best of these domestic stocks is the Horse plum, a small and purple- fruited variety of Pruniis domestica, which gives very uniform seedlings. This is sometimes used in New York. It is simply a spontaneous or wilding plum, in thickets and along roadsides. The French stocks which are in most common use are St. Julien and Black Damas The .Myro- balan {P. cerasifera) is chiefly used for plums, howcxer, because of its cheapness and the readiness with which all varieties take on it. The peach is often used as a plum stock, and it is valuable in the south, especially for light soils. In the north plum stocks are better. Marianna is used southwards, very likely too freely. Almond stocks, especially for the French prune and for light soils, are considerably used in California. The apricot is some- times employed, but results appear to be poor or indif- ferent, on the whole. Prunes thrive upon the above stocks also. Various stocks dwarf the plum. The chief dwarf stock at present is the Myrobalan. This is imported. It is easily grown from seeds, or sometimes from cuttings. Although the .Myrobalan, like the Mahaleb cherry, is a slow grower, the dwarfing of the top depends more upon subsequent pruning than upon the root. The .Mirabclle yP. cerasifera], a foreign stock, is sometimes used. The many soecies of native plums, of the Primus Americana and P. angustifolia (Chickasaw) types, are good stocks for dwarf or intermediate trees. In most cases, the bud or graft grows lu.xuriantly for two or three years, and thereafter grows rather slowly. It is best to bud or graft low upon these stocks. Unless the tops are freely and persistently headed in, however, dwarf plum trees are not secured. The only e.Kception to this statement seems to be in the use of the native dwarf cherry stocks (Pruniis puiiiila and P. Ees- seyi), which have been used in an e.xperimental way with much promise. The native or American plums are budded upon native seedlings, or rarely upon Primus domestica seedlings ; or thev are grown from cuttings, as in the case of Marianna. The Japanese plums are worked upon peach, common plum, natives, or Marianna. Peach and Marianna are mostly used, but as the Japanese plums begin to bear freely their own seedlings will no doubt be used for stock.s. PLUM, COCO — POLIANTHF.S. 303 Plum, concluded, and this may be expected to be an advantage. Peach is probably preferable to Marianna. Pniiins Simonii works upon peach common pkim, Myrobalan and Marianna, chiefly upon the first. The ornamental plums are worked upon the same stocks as the fruit-bearing sorts. See Prunus. Plums (like cherries) can be top-grafted the same as afiples, but the cions must be kept completely dormant. It is preferable to graft very early in the spring. Plum, Coco. See Chrysobalanus. Plumbago (Leadwort). Phmibaginacea^. Seeds, division and cuttings. Cuttuigs are made from firm, nearly mature wood, and should be given mild bot- tom heat. Podocarpus. Conifcra". Usually grown from cuttings of firm wood under cover. Podophyllum (May Apple, Mandrake; erroneously Duck's Foot). Berberidacece. Seeds (stratified or sown as soon as ripe) and division. Poinciana. l.eguminosa. Propagation by seeds. Poinsettia. Euphorbiacecr. Cuttings of growing shoots, of two or three buds each, hantUed upon a cutting-bench or in a frame Many prop- agators prefer to let the cuttings lie exposed two or three days before setting them. Cuttings of ripened wood can be used to good advantage where the heat is rather low. See Euphorbia. ' Polemonium. Polemoniaccie. Propagated by seeds and by division. Polianthes (Tuberose). Amaryllidacea:. Increased by bulbels. Remove these from the parent bulb in the fall, and keep in a warm, dry place until the following spring. The soil should be light, rich and moist throughout the summer. Before frost comes in the fall, take the bulbs up, and when dry, cut off the leaves. The bulbs should be kept as during the preceding winter, and the culture during the following year is the same as during the first. The bulbs usually flower the second or third summer. 304 THE NURSERY LIST Polvanthus. See Primula. Polygala iMilkwort). Polygalacecs. Seeds ; sometimes by division, and by cuttings of young shoots under cover, particularly for tropical species. Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal). Liliacecr. Propagated by seeds and by division. Polygonum (Knot-Grass or Knot-\\'eed ). Polygonacccs. Seeds. The perennials are also easily increased by division of the rootstocks, and by cuttings. See Sac- aline. Polypodium (Pohpody). Filices. Division usually. See Ferns. Pomegranate (/'/«/ /a; Graiiatu»i). Lythraceiz. Largely by seeds, and all varieties are increased by cut- tings, suckers, layers, and scarce sorts by grafting on a common sort. Pomelo, Shaddock (Citrus Decuniana). Ruiacecr. Usually gruwTi from seeds, but it may be budded upon pomelo or orange stocks, as in the Orange, which sec. Pontederia (Pickerel Weed). Ponlcdcriactcc. Seeds rarely. Mostly by division. See, also, Eich- hornia. Poppy. See Papaver. Populus (Poplar, Aspen, Cottonwood). Salicace/r. Seeds, sown as soon as ripe and raked in, in light soil. Suckers are also used. Most often increased by cuttings of ripe wuod, taken in fall and spring. The weeping forms are stock-grafted upon upright sorts, chiefly upor P. grandidcntata. Portugal Laurel. See Prunus. Portulaca (Purslane, Rose Moss). Poytulacacea-. The annuals are raised from seed. \'arieties are some- times propagated by cuttings. Potato [Solanmji tuhcrosinn). Solanacetr. Tubers, either whole or variously divided. Also rarely by stem cuttings. See page 60. POTKNTILLA — PKUNUS. 3O5 Potentilla, including- Horkelia (Cinquefoil, Five-Finger), Roiacerc. Seeds, layers, division, green cuttings. Poterium, including SangnisorlDa (Burnet). Rosacnr. The herbaceous kinds are increased by seeds and divi- sion. The shrubs are raised from soft cuttings, under glass. See Burnet. Prickly Ash. See Zantho.xylum. Prickly Pear. See Opuntia. Pride of India. See Melia. Prim. See Ligustrum. Primula, Polyanthus (Primrose, Cowslip). Priinulacciv. Seeds, sown carelully in very fine soil, under glass. The seeds should ije fresh ; old ones often lie dormant a year. Many sorts are increased by division. See Auricula. Prinos. See Ilex. Pritchardia. Palmacecr. Increased by seeds. Privet. See Ligustrum. Prune. See Plum. Prunus, Amygdalus. Rosacea:. The dwarf almonds (Amygdaiiis) are increased by seeds, division, cuttings, and by buddin,g upon seedling plum or peach stocks ; also by root cuttin.gs. Peach stocks give larger trees at first than plum stocks, but the trees are not so long-lived. Perhaps ten years may be considered the average life of most ornamental almonds upon the peach, while upon the plum they may persist twenty-five years or more. (See Almond.) The ornamen- tal cherries, peaches, etc., are propagated in essentially the same manner as the fruit-bearing varieties. /'. Laiiro- Cerasus and P. Liisitanica, the cherry laurel and Portugal laurel, may be propagated by short cuttings of ripened wood, in a cool greenhouse in autumn. P. Pissardii prop- agates by cuttings of the soft wood and, with more diffi- culty, from cuttings of dormant wood. Soft cuttings suc- ceed well with many of the double-Howering plums and cherries, if the wood is grown under glass. See Apricot, Cherry, Peach, Plum. 306 THE NURSERY LIST. Pseudotsuga. Conifera:. Propagated the same as Abies, which see. Psidium. See Guava. Psoralea LegiiminoscE. Seeds, divisions and cuttings of grouins; shoots, placed under glass. The tubiferoiis species, as the " ponime blanche" or Indian potato {P. csculenia) are increased by tubers or divisions of them. Ptelea (Hop-tree). Rutacea-. Increased by seeds, sown in autumn or stratified, or by layers. The varieties may be grafted on the common forms. Pteris (Brake, Bracken). Filices. Easily grown from spores. See Ferns. Pterocarya. Jiigiaiidacefe. Increased by seeds, suckers and layers. Ptychosperma, Seaforthia (Australia Feather-palm). Paf- maceir. Seeds in heat. Pulmoflaria See Mertensia. Pumpkin ( Ciicurbita, three species). Ciniirbi/aiCtf. Seeds, when the weather is settled. Punica. See Pomegranate. Puschkinia, Adamsia. Liliacccr. Increased by dividing the bulbs, which should be done every two or three years. Pyrethrum. See Chrysanthemuni- Pyrola (Shin-leaf, Wintergreen). Ericaceae. Propagated by division ; very rarely from seeds. Pyrus. Rosacea. The ornamental species and varieties of apples and crabs are budded or grafted upon common apple stocks. The mountain ashes are grown from stratified seeds, which usually lie dormant until the second year, or the varieties are budded or grafted upon stocks of the com- mon s|.iecies {P. Aucuparia). Layers and green cuttings are occasionally employed for various species and varie- gUAMOCLIT — QUINCE. 307 ties of pyrus. See also Apple, Pear, Quince. It is a good plan to obtain stocks as nearly related to the plant which is to be propagated as possible ; c. g., Parkman's pyrus does better on P. floribunda than on the common apjile stock. The wild crabs can be worked upon the apple when stocks of their own species cannot be had. Quamoclit. See Ipomcea. Quassia. Siinarubacca:. Cuttings of ripe shoots under glass. Quercus (Oakj. Ciipulifcm. Stocks are grown readily from seeds, which may be sown in the fall without stratification. Take care that vermin do not dig up the acorns. The e\ergreen species are sometimes grown from cuttings. Varieties are grafted on stocks grown from wild acorns. The stocks are potted in the fall, and the grafting (generally the veneer-graft) is performed in January and February, or sometimes in August. Quince i Pyrus Cydonia. P. Cathaycnsis, P. Japoiiica, etc.). Rosacea:. All quinces can be grown from seeds, the same as ap- ples and pears ; but seeds are not common in the market, and are, therefore, little used. The fruit-bearing quinces are propagated most cheaply by means of cuttings of ma- ture wood or by mound-layering. Cuttings are taken in the fall, and are stored in sand, moss or sawdust until spring, when they are planted outdoors. Lon.g cuttings — 10 to 12 inches — are usually most successful, as they reach into uniformly moist earth. Cuttings are usually made of the recent wood, and preferably with a heel, but wood two or three years old will usually grow. With some \a- rieties and upon some soils, there is considerable uncer- tainty, and layerage is therefore ol'ten employed. JMound- layering (see page 39) is practiced where extra strong plants are required. Long root-cuttings, treated like those of the blackberry and raspberry, will also .grow. Many nurserymen bud- or root-graft the better varieties upon stocks of Angers or other strong sorts. These stocks are imported from Europe (and are the same as those used for dwarf pears ). These imported plants are gro\vn both frtjm cuttings and mound-layers, the greater part of them from the latter, but seeds are occasionally employed. These stocks are two years old when im- ported, having been transplanted the first year from the 3o8 THE NURSERY LIST. culting-bed or the stool-yard. In order to secure extra strong plants and a uniform stand, some growers graft quince cuttings upon pieces of apple or pear roots. In such cases the plants should be taken up in the fall, when the quince will be Ibund to have sent out roots of its own ; the apple sprouts (or even tlie entire root) should be removed, and the quince replanted the following spring in the nursery row, otherwise suckers frequently spring from the stock and interfere with the growth of the quince. The union is sufficient to nurse the cion for two or three years. Tlie flowering or Japanese quince is best propagated by short root-cuttings, which are usually made in the tall, and scattered in drills in frames or in a well-prepared bor- der in spring. Cuttings of firm, nearly mature wood, handled in frames, will grow, but they are not often used. The d( luble varieties are root-grafted upon common stocks of P. /apitiiica in winter. Tlie plants are then grown on in pots. Common quince (P. Cydonia) stocks are occa- sioually used, but they are not in favor. The Chinese quince (Pynis CaZ/iaj't'/isis) is worked upon the common quince. Radish { /\ap/taiiiis sa/ii'iis]. CrucifcriC. .Seeds, usually sown where the plants are to grow Ragged Robin. See Lychnis. Ramondia, Myconia. Gesncracca:. Propagated by seeds or division. Rampion (Campanula Rapiincuhis]. Canipamilacar. Seeds, wliere the plants are to stand. Ranunculus (Buttercup, Crowfoot). Ratuinculaccce. Propagated by seeds and by division. Raphia. Falmacecc. .Seeds. Raspberry [Rubiis strigosiis, R. occidentalis, etc.). Rosacccr. New varieties are obtained from seeds, which are washed from the pulp and sown immediately, or strati- fied. The black-cap varieties are grown mostly from root-tips, as described on page 36. If the ground is loose and mellow, the tips will commonly take root themselves, but upon hard ground the tip may have to be held in place by a stone or clod. Some strong-growing varieties, like the Gregg, especially in windy localities, have to be held RED-BOD RETINOSPORA. 3O9 down. The red varieties increase rapidly by means of suckers which spring up from the roots. Better plants are obtained by means of root cuttings, however, as de- scribed under ISlackberry (see also Fig. 62). Black-caps may be increased by root cuttings. These cuttings are best handled in warm coldframes or mild hotbeds, being planted very early in spring. By the time the weather is settled, they will be large enough to plant in nursery rows. Red-bud. See Cercis. Red Cedar. See Juniperus. Reinwardtia, Linum in part, of gardeners, LinacccF. Seeds. Cuttings of strong shoots in heat. Renanthera. See ^Erides. Reseda (Mignonette). Rcsedacea:. Seeds. For winter flowering, seeds are sown in July. Also grown from cuttings. Resurrection Plant. See Anastatica. Retinospora, species of Chavuccyparis (Japanese Arbor- Vitse). Cotiifcnr. Grown sometimes from seeds, which should be denuded of pulp. Layers of tender branches are sometimes em- ployed. Most commonly grown from cuttings. These are made from tips of growing or ripened shoots, and are 2 or 3 inches long, with all the leaves left on. They are usually, from necessity, variously branched. The soft cuttings are usually taken from forced plants, and are handled in a close frame or under a bell-glass, with bottom heat. In commercial establishments the cuttings of ripe wood are preferred. The following is the practice of one of the largest nurseries in the country : Cuttings of the entire season's growth, cut to a heel, are taken in October and November, and are placed in sand in boxes in gentle heat, as in a propagating-house. By February the roots will be formed, and the iDo.xes are then placed in a cool house where the temperature is about 50°. Early in spring (about April 1st) the boxes are placed outdoors in coldframes, where they remain until May, vmtil frost is over. The boxes are then removed from the frames and are set on boards in a shady place, where they are left until fall. In the fall — having been nearly a year in the boxes — the plants are shaken out and are heeled-in in a U 3IO THE NURSERY LIST. cellar. The next spring they are planted out in beds, and during the following summer and winter they are given some protection from sun and cold. Yeus and arbor-vittes are handled in the same way. Retinosporas are often grafted upon retinospora or com- mon arbor vita; stocks. This operation is usually per- formed upon potted plants in winter by the veneer method. Rhamnus, including Frangula (Buckthorn'. A'/iaiimarCcr. The hardy kinds may be increased by means of seeds or b_\- layers The stove and greenhouse species may be multiplied by cuttings of growing parts. Seeds should be stratified. Rheum (Rhubarb, Pie-plant, Wine-plant). Polyg:onacea:. Increased by seeds and by division. Each division should contain at least one bud on the crown. Seeds may l)e sown where the plants are to stand, but will not reproduce the varieties, and three years are required for the jjlants to mature. Rhipsalis, including Lepisniium, Pfeiflera. Cactacca:. Cuttings, after having l:ieen dried lor a few days, should be inserted in ciarse gr;uel or sand. See Cactus. Rhodanthe. See Hclipleruni. Rhododendron, Azalea (Rose-Bay). EritacecT. .Seeds are largely employed, but they are small and light, and must be carefully hand'ed. They are sown in spring in pans or boxes in a soil oi sandy peat, care being tsacece. Seeds, usually sown in the open, and sometimes by division. Scaevola. Goodcnoinea:. Seeds. Cuttings should be inserted in a compost of peat and sand, under glass. Schinus (Pepper-tree, of California"). Aiiacardiaceir . Propagated by seeds. Cuttings, in greenhouses. Schismatoglottis. Aroideir. Increased by division. Schizandra. ^Tagnoliacear. Seeds, when procurable. Propagation is effected by layers ; by ripened cuttings, which should be inserted in sand under glass. Schizantlius (Butterfly, or Fringe Flower). Solanaccir. The half-hardy kinds are increased by seeds sown in a little heat in spring. The seed of the hardy sorts may be sown in the open ground in early s]iring. Schizostylis. Iridacece. Propagated by seeds and by division. Sciadophyllum. .Ara/iacciT. Seeds. Cuttings, in sand under glass, in moderate heat. Sciadopitys (Umbrella Pine). Conifcirr. Slowly propagated by imported seeds. But cuttings of the halt-ripened shoots, taken otif m summer and inserted in sand, in heat, root readily. Scilla (Squill, Wild Hyacinth). Liliaccr. Slowh' increased by seeds, but usually by bulbels. Scirpus Tubernaemontanus of florists, is Juncus, which see. Scolopendrium. See Ferns. Scorzonera (Black Salsify). ComposUce. Seeds, sown where the plants are to stand. SCOTCH BROOM — SERVICE-BERRY. 317 Scotch Broom. See Cytisus. Screw Pine. See Panclamis. Seaforthia. See Ptychosperma. Sea-kale {Crambe maritinia). Crucifera;. Seeds, sown witliout being shelled, usually in a seed- bed. When the young plants have made three or four leaves, they should be removed to permanent quarters. Seedlings should furnish crops in three years. By root- cuttings, four or five inches long, taken from well estab- lished plants. These should give plants strong enough for cutting in two years. Seaside Grape. See Coccoloba. Sechium (Choko). Ciiciiybitacccc. Seeds. Root-tubers. Sedge. See Carex. Sedum (Orpine, Stonecrop). Crassiilacea:. I'ropagation may be effected by seeds, by division of the tufts, by cuttings of stems or leaves in spring. Selaginella. Lycopodiacece. Spores, as for Ferns (which see). Short cuttings, in- serted in early spring, in pots or pans. Sempervivum (House Leek). Crassu/acea-. Readily increased by seeds, or by the young pkiuts which appear around the old one at the base. Senecio, including Cacilia, Farfugium, |arob;La, Ligularia (Grounsel, Ragweed). Coiiiposi/cr. The annuals are propagated by seeds. Others may be increased by seeds, by division, or by cuttings of both the roots and shoots. German Ivy (Senecio scatidens) is easily multiplied by cuttings of the running shoots. Sensitive Plant. See Mimosa. Sequoia, Wellingtonia (Redwood). Conifera:. Seeds, which must be handled in a frame or half-shady place. Layers, and cuttings handled like those of retino- spora and yew. Sericographis. See Justicia. Service-berry. See Amelanchier. 3l8 THE NUKSERY LIST. Sesamum ( Bene). Pedalinea-. Seeds, sown under glass, or in the south in the open border. Sesbania (Pea-tree). Leguminosir. Seeds for annual species ; the shrubby kinds by cuitin.sfs of the half-ripened shoots under glass, in heat. Shad-bush. See Amelanchier. Shaddock. See Pomelo. Shallot [Allium .iscalonicnm). IJliaccce. Grown from "cKnes," which are formed by the break- ing up of the main linlb. Shell-bark Hickory i Shag-bark). See Hicoria. Shepherdia ilkiffalo P.erryl. Elccagitaito-. Increased by seeds sown in the fall or stratihed until spring. Sibbaldia. See PotentiUa. Siberian Pea-tree. See Caragana. Side-saddle Flower. See Sarracenia. Silene (Campion, Catchfly). Caryophyllacece. P)V seeds, division, and cuttings. Silk-cotton Tree. See Bombax. Silphium (Rosin-plant, Compass-plant). Compositti:. Propagated by seeds and by division. Silver Bell. See Halesia. Sinningia (Gloxinia.) Gcsncracca:. Seeds should be sown the latter part of winter, in well- drained pots or small pans of finely silted soil, of peat, leaf-mold and sand in about equal proportions. The seeds should be sown thinly and covered slightly, then carefully watered, and placed in a temperature of about 70° and kept shaded. Cuttings of the shoots may be taken when the old tubers are starting in spring, and placed in a close propagating frame Leaf cuttings, with a small portion of the petiole attached, .give excellent results, especially when the leaves are firm and nearly matured. Leaf cuttings are made after the fashion of Fig Si. a little tuber forms on the end of the leaf-stalk, and SISYRINCHIUM — SOLDANELLA. 3IC) this is remcved and handled like any small tuber. Also grafted on tubers {see page 129). Sisyrinchium (Blue-eyed Grass, Satin Flovver). Iridixcecp. It may be increased in spring by seeds or by division. Skimmia. Rutaccce. Seeds, in a frame. Also by layers, and by firm cuttings in gentle heat, Skirret (Siinit Sisa7itin). Uiiibellifera. Seeds, offsets, or division. Slipperwort. See Campanula and Calceolaria. Smilacina (False Solomon's Seal). Liliacece. Seeds. Division of roots. Smilax (Green-Briar, American China Root). Liliaceir. Young plants are obtained by seeds, by layers, and by division of the root. For the " Smila.x " or Boston-vine of conservatories, see Myrsiphyllum. Snapdragon. See Antirrhinum. Snowball. See Viburnum. Snowberry. See Symphoricarpus and Chiococca. Snowdrop. See Galanthus. Snowflake. See I.eucoium. Soapwort. See Saponaria. Solandra. Solanacea;. Increased by seeds sown in spring ; by cuttings, inserted in mold or tan. If small flowering plants are desired, the cuttings should be taken from flowering shoots. Solanum (Nightshade). Solanace the lex'el uf the soil ; ur by division. Ulex (Furze, Gorse, Whin). Lcgiiminoscr. Propagated by seeds or by cuttings. Ulmus (Elm). Ujiicacccr. Usually propagated by seeds. The seeds of most elms germinate the year the\' mature (they ripen in spring), and they may be sown at once. The slippery elm ( i'^'. fulva ], however, generally germinates the following year, and the seeds should be stratified. Layers are sometimes made, and suckers may be taken. The varieties are grafted on common stocks. Umbrella-plant. See Cyperus. Unicorn Plant. See Martynia. Uvularia, including Oakesia (Piellwort). Liliacctr. Seeds ; usually Ijy di\ ision. Vaccinium (Swam|i Huckleberry, Whortleberry, Pluebcrry, BiUberry, Cranberry). EricaLCic. Seeds, layers, root cuttings, and divisions of the old plants. Some species by hard-wood cuttings, lor which see Cranberry. Huckleberry seeds are small and some- what difficult to grow. The seeds should be washed from the fruits and stored in sand in a cool place until late in winter. They are then sown in pans or Hats on the sur- face rjf a soil made of equal parts sand and loam. Cover with fine sphagnum and keep in a cool house or frame, always keeping the seeds moist. Seeds treated in this way may be e.v|iected to germinate in a month or two, although they may lie dormant a year. Transplant fre- quently and keep shaded until large enough to shift for themselves. Layers should be tongued. Cuttings, 2 or 3 inches long, of the best roots, made in fall and placed in mild liottom heat in early spring, often gi\'e fair satisfac- tion. Nati\e plants can be obtained Irom the woods and fields \vhich will gi\e good satisfaction if small specimens are taken. Gaylussacias are handled in the same way as vacciniums. Valeriana (Valerian). I'alLr'uDiaccu-. Seeds and divisions. VALLOTA — VETCH. 331 Vallota. Amaryllidaceo'. Bulbels, which usually appear above the surface of the pot. Division of the bulbs. Vanda Orchidacccc. The majority are propagated in the same way as de- scribed for aerides, but two species — V. teres and I'. Hookeri — both tall and quick growing, may be cut into lengths of a {^tvi inches. The practice of the most suc- cessful cultivators is to start them every year as cuttings about a foot long. See also under Orchids. Vanilla. Oreliidacecv. Division and cuttings. The vanilla of commerce ( V. plani/olia) is |5ropagated from cuttings, which are planted at the base of trees, upon which the plant climbs. See also under Orchids. Vegetable Oyster. See Salsify. Veitchia. rahnacccr. Seeds. Veratrum ( False c.ir White Hellebore). Liliacece. Young plants are obtained by seeds (jr by division. Verbascum (Mullein). Scrophulariaeece . All are raised from seeds sown in any ordinary soil, ex- cept r'. iiignnn and K. pitinatifiduiii ^ which should be increased by division and cuttings respectively. Verbena (Vervain), l^erbenaceie. .Seeds ; also by cuttings of vigorous shoots. Some spe- cies by division. Vernonia (Ironweed). Coinposita:. i\Iay lie raised from seeds, division or cuttings, depend- ing on the character of the plant. Veronica (Speedwell). Scyopluilariaccce. Seeds and division. Shrubby sorts often by cuttings. Vesicaria ( Bladder-]iod). Cruci/eric. Annuals by seeds ; perennials by division. Vetch ( r?V/a saliva, etc.). Leguniinosie. By seeds, in open air. 332 THE NURSERY LIST. Viburnum. Caprifoliacecr. Seeds, whicli should be stratified. They usually remain dormant the first year. Layers usually make the best- plants. Green cuttings made in summer and handled in frames give excellent results. V. tomeniosum ( W plica- tuin of nurseries) is propagated by cuttings. Ripe cut- tings are sometimes used for the soft-wooded species. The snowball or guelder-rose {V. Opiihis) is rapidly in- creased by layers. It is also a good stock for closely re- lated species. V. Lantana and ]'. dentata are good stocks on which varieties difficult to handle can be worked by the veneer-graft during winter. Victoria (Royal Water Lily, Water Platter). NymplKracea;. The seeds should be kept in vessels of water until time for sowing, when they maybe placed in loamy soil, and the pot submerged a couple of inches in water, the tem- perature of which should not be allowed to fall below °S5. 'fhe lank should be in a light position near the glass. Annual. Vigna. LegnininoSiT. Seeds. The cow-pea or black-pea ( J'igna Sinensis) by seeds when danger of frost is past. Vinca ( Periwinkle, Running Myrtle). Apocynacece. Increased b\' seeds, and (chietl\) b)' di\'ision. f. rosta aniuially by seeds. Viola (\'iolet. Heartsease, Pansy). J'iolacccT. The named violets are increased by cuttings made in a cool house from vigorous shoots. Common species by seeds, runners, and division of the plants. Pansies are usually grown from seeds, but named \-arieties may be multiplied late in the season from cuttings or from las'ers. Virgilia. See Cladrastis. Virginia Creeper. .See Ampelopsis. Virgin's Bower. .See Clematis. Viscum (Mistletoe). Loranthacea". R.iised from seed, which should be inserted in a notch cut in the bark or under side of a br.uich of the host. Avoid crushing the seed, and have the embryo directed towards the trunk. To prevent birds from disturbing the seeds after being placed in position, cover with light-cul- VITEX WAX-FLOWER. 333 ored cloth. The seed may also be fastened to a smooth part of the tree by the sticky substance surrounding it, but more seed is lost. Our native phoradendron can be handled in the same way. Vitex (Chaste-tree). I'crbcnacear . Seeds. .Suckers. Layers. Cuttings of green or ri- pened wood. Vitis. See Grape. Vochysia, CucuUaria. I'ochysiacefe. Seeds ; liy ripened cuttings in sand under glass, in heat. Volkameria. See Clerodendron. Waahoo. See Euonymus. Wahlenbergia. See Platycodon. Waldsteinia. Rosacea-. May be multiplied liy seeds, or Ijy division. Wallflower ( Cheiranlhtis Cheiri). Crnciferce. Propagated by seeds ; the plants, however, will not fliiwi-r at the north until the second season ; protection of a frame is required. Wallichia, Wrightia. Pahiiacccr. i\Iay be increased by seeds ; or fiy suckers, whi<'n should be gradually separated so as to allow them to make sufficient roots before they are quite detached. Walnut. .See Juglans. Wandering Jew. See Zebrina. Water-Cress [Nasturtium officinale). Crucifcrcr. Cuttings of the young stems, which njot in mud with great readiness. .Seeds scattered in the water or mud. Water-lily. See Nympha^a, Nelumbo and Victoria. Water-melon (Citrullus vulgaris). Cucurbilacece. .Seeds, usually sown where the plants are to remain, after the weather is warm and settled. Watsonia (Bugle Lily). Iridacecc. The plants are multiplied by seeds or by offsets. Wax-flower. See Hoya. 334 THE NURSERY LIST. Weigela. See Diervilla. Wellingtonia. See Sequoia. Whin. See Ule.v and Cytisus. White Cedar. See Cham:ecyparis and Thuya. White-wood. See Liriodendroii and Tilia. Whitlavia. See Phacelia. Whortleberry, Ylucklcherry (Gay/ussacia resiiwsa). Ericacea:. Propagated by seeds, which should be stratified aiiq otherwise carefully handled. See also Vaccinium. Willow. See Salix. Wind-flower. See Anemone. Windsor, Broad or Horse Bean (/ VWiz Faba). I.eguiuijwscF. Propagated by seeds in open air alter the soil is fairly warm. Wineberry [Riilnis plumicolasins). Rosacwc. Increases readily by "tips," tlie same as the black rasp- berry ; also by root cuttings. Winter Aconite. See Eranthis. Winter Cress. See Pjarbarea. Wistaria. Lcgmiiinosir. Readily grown from seeds. Sometimes by division. Layers. Cuttings of ripened wood, usually handled under glass. The common purple and white kinds are largely grown from root cuttings, an inch or two long, placed in bottom heat, when they will start in f^iur or ti\-e weeks Many of the fancy kinds, especially when wood is scarce, are root- or crown-grafted upon IV. Sinensis. Witch-hazel See Plamamelis. Woodbine. A name properly beleinging to climbing Loni- ceras, but often api)lied to Ampelopsis, both of \\iiich see. Wormwood, Southern Wood {.■hiniiisia AbsiiilhiuDi). Compositcr. Seeds and division. Wrightia, Palfouria (Palay, or Ivory-tree). Apocyniacar. Seeds ; usually Ijy cuttings, which root readily in sand in heat. XANTHOCERAS — ZEBRA-GRASS. 335 Xanthoceras. Sapindacea-. Usually multiplied by seeds ; root cuttings are some- times used. Xanthorrhiza, Z.inthorhiza. Ranunculacea-. Seeds and suckers. XanthorrhcEa (Black Boy, Grass-tree). Juncacea:. Seeds ; but usually by offsets. Xanthosoma, including Acontias. Aroidecr . May be increased by cutting up the stem or rootstock into small pieces and planting these in light soil, or cocoa fiber, in bottom heat. After a stem has been cut off a number of shoots are developed, which can be treated as cuttings. Xerophyllum. Liltaceir. May be propagated by seeds and by division. Xiphion. See Iris. Xylophylla. See Phyllanthus. Yam. See Dioscorea. Yellow-wood. See Cladrastis. Yew. See Ta.xus. Yucca (Adam's Needle, Bear's Grass, .Spanish Bayonet). Liliacecc. Increased by seeds ; and by divisions, which may be planted in the open ground, or by pieces of thick, Heshy roots, cut into lengths, and inserted in sandy soil, in heat. Yulan. See Magnolia. Zamia. Cycadacecr. Division of the crowns when possible , or by seeds and suckers. The plants are oftenest imported directly from the tropics. .See Cycas. Zanthorhiza. See Xanthorrhiza. Zanthoxylum (Prickly Ash). Rutacea-. Seeds, suckers, but more often by root cuttings. Zea. .See Maize. Zebra-grass. See Miscanthus. 336 THE NURSERY LIST. Zebrina fWandering; Jew). Commelinaceir. Very easily multiplied by single-joint cuttings of the trailing shoots. These shoots root at the joints if allowed to run on moist earth. Zephyranthes, including Habranthus (Flower of the West Wind, Zephyr Flower). Amayyllidai'eo'. May be multiplied by seeds ; or by separating thebulbels. Zingiber, including Zerumbet (Ginger). Scitainineiz. Propagated by division. Zinnia ( Youth-and-Old-Age). CouiposilcF. Seeds, sown either indoors or out. Zizania (Wild or Indian Rice). Graininece. Seeds, sown along water courses or in bogs in fall or spring. Zizyphus. See Jujube. Zygadenus, including Amianthemum. LiliacecF. Readily niuUiplied by seeds or by division. Zygopetalum, Otrhidacecr. Division. See also under Orchids. Zygophyllum (Bean Caper). Zy^'-opliy/laceir. Seeds, when they can be had ; otherwise by cuttings ir» a Irame. GLOSSARY. Adventitious. Said of buds which appear in unusual places, especially of those which are caused to appear on roots and stems by any method of pruning or other treatment. Air-layering. See Pot-layering. Bark-grafting. A kind of grafting in which the cions are inserted between the bark and wood of a stub ; often, but erroneously, called crown-grafting. Fig. 135. Bottle-grafting. A method of grafting in which a shred of bark from the cion, or a portion of the bandage, is allowed t j hang in water (generally in a bottle, whence the name), for the purpose of supplying the cion with moisture until it has united with the stock. Pages 112, 132- Bottom heat. A term used to designate the condition that arises when the roots of plants, or the soil in which they grow, are e.xposed to a higher temperature tinan that of the air in which the aerial portions of the same plants are growing. Breaking. Said of buds and cions which start (or break) pre- maturely. Page loi. Brick (of mushroom). See Spawn. Bud. As used by propagators, a i^/io' comprises the leaf-bud (or rarely a short spur) and a bit of bark or wood to which it is attached. Figs. 85, 96, 99, 100. Budding. The operation of applying a single bud to the surface of the growing wood of the stock, with the in- tention that it shall grow. The bud is usually inserted underneath the bark of the cion, and is held in place by a bandage. Budding is a part of the general process of graftage. Called inoculation in old writings. Page 94. (337) , 338 GLOSSARY. Bulb. A larj;e and more or less permanent and fleshy leaf- bud, usually occupying'the base of the stem and bearing roots on its lower portion. Scaly bulbs, like that of the lily (Figs. 19, 20), are made up of narrow and mostly loose imbricated scales. Tunicated or laminated bulbs, like that of the onion, are composed of closely fitting and more continuous layers or plates. Bulbel. A smaller or secondary bulb borne about a mother bulb ; bulbule. Page 27. Bulblet. A small bulb borne wholly above ground, usually in the inflorescence or in the a.xil of the leaf, as in " top onions," tiger lily, etc. Bulbo-tuber. See Corni. Bulbule. See Bulbel. Callus. The mass of reparative or healing tissue which forms over a wound. Cambium. The tissue which lies between the bark and the wood, and from which those part.s arise. Chinese-layering. See Pot-layering. Chip-budding. That style of budding which removes a truncheon or chip of bark and wood from the side of the stock, and fills the cavity with a similarly shaped bud friini the variety which it is desired to propagate. Fig. 100. Cion or Scion. A portion of a plant which is mechanically inserted upon the same or another plant (stock), with the intention that it shall grow. See Chapter \'., and Figs, loi, 102, loS, III, 115, 116, 119, and others. Cion-budding. See Shield-grafting. Circumposition. See Pot-layering. Cleft-grafting. That method of grafting in which the stock is cut otf completely and then split, and one or more cions, cut wedge-shape, inserted in the cleft. Figs. iiS, 119, T24, 125, 126, 134. The grafted end of the stock (Figs. iiS, 126) is called a stub. CLOVE DOUBLE-WORKING. 339 Clove. One of the small separable portions of a composite bulb, as in the garhc, Corm. A solid liulb-like tuber, more or less covered with a sheathing- or enwrapping tissue, as in the crocus and gladiolus ; bnllio-tuber. Fig. 25. Cormel. A small corm Ijorne about anotlier or mother corm. Page 31. Fig. 25. Sometimes called ,?/>(;<(:'«. Crown. A detachable portion or branch of a rootstock bear- ing roots and a prominent bud. Page 32. That portion of the plant at the surface of the ground whicli stands between the visible stem and root ; collar. Crown-grafting. Grafting upon the crown or collar of a plant (i. c, at the surface of the ground'. Page 107. Also applied to bark-grafting (but improperly). Page 129. Cuttage. The practice or process of multiplying plants by means of cuttings, or the state or condition of being thus propagated. [First used by the present author in 26th Report of the .State l^oard of Agriculture of Mich- igan, p. 432 (1887). Equivalent to the French bontu- ra(^c.'\ See Chapter IV. Cutting. A severed portion of a plant, inserted in soil, water, or other medium, with the intention that it shall grow; a slip. See Chapter IV. Cutting-bench. A bed or table in a glass-house, or under cover, used for the rooting of cuttings. Fig. 58. Cutting-grafting. The grafting of a cion upon a cutting. Page 131. Figs. 105, 137. Damping-o£f. The rotting away of the tissue of plant stems at or near the surface of the ground. It is the work of fungi or of germs. Page 23. Division. Propagation of plants by means of severed por- tions of the root system or of subterranean stems. Pages 32 and 58. Double-working. Grafting or budding upon a plant or shoot which is itself a graft or bud. Page 133. Fig. 140. 34U GLOSSARY. Dressing (nf stocks). The trimming of stocks, wiiich are to be budded or grafted, before they are set in the nursery row. Fig. 85. Page 96. Dwarfing. The permanent checking of tlie groutlr of a plant so that it never attains its normal stature. The chief means employed in the dwarfing of trees are, grafting upon a slow-growing stock, heading-in of the tup, con- fining or pruning the roots. Page 147. Eye. A t)ud. Single-eye cuttings are those hearing but one bud. Fig 66. Flagging. Wilting. Said of plants newly transplanted, or of cuttings. Pages 53. 66, 68. Also applied to the general wilting of plants due to lack of water. Flat. A shallow box or tray, in which the gardener grows or transports plants. Flute-budding. That method of budding which removes a rectangular jKirtion of bark from the stuck and fills tlie cavity with a similar piece of bark, of the desired va- riety, bearing a bud. Fig. 99. Frame. The structure fjrming the sides and ends of cold- frames or hotbeds. A frame is comini.>n]y si.x feet wide and of sufficient lengtli to accommodate from three to si.x three-feet-wide sash. It is usually made of boards. The area co\'ered by a single glass shutter is called a sas/i, and is generally 3x6 feet. The area which is com- monly understood as ona frame is 6 .x 12 feet. Free Stock. See Stock and .Seedling. Germination. Tlie act or process by means of which a seed or spore gives rise to a new plant, (iiermination is com- plete when the plantlet has exhausted the store of food in the seed and is able to suppi.irt itself Page 9. The word germination cannot be prO|ierl\- applied to the arising of plants from tubers, as of the potato ; vegeta- tion is the better term in such cases. GRAFTAGE HERBACEOUS- GRAFTING. 34 1 Graftage. The process or operation of grafting or budding, or the state or condition of being grafted or budded. [First used by the present author in 26th Report of the State Board of Agriculture of Michigan, p. 433 (1SS7). Equivalent to the French ^'rc^^S^c] See Chapter V. Grafting. The operation of inserting a cion in a stock. It is commonly restricted to the operation of inserting cions of two or more buds, in distinction from budding, or the operation of inserting a single bud in the stock ; but there are no essential differences between the two operations. See Chapter V. H-budding. Much like fiute-budding (which see), e.xcept that the Ijark which is loosened from the stock is left attached in two flaps, secured at the upper and lower ends, and tliese flaps are tied over the bud. Fig. 98. Heading-in. Cutting back or shortening the shoots or branches of plants, in distinction to removing the branch bodily at its point of union with the parent branch. Heel. A form of cutting of which the lower end comprises the very base of the shoot as it grew upon the parent branch. Fig. 60. Heeling-in. The temporary covering of plants, or of their roots, in order to preserve or protect them until they are placed m permanent quarters. Herb. A plant which dies to the ground once a year, at the approach of winter or of the inactive season. Used in distinction to woody plants, like shrubs and trees. Perennial herbs are those of which the tops or aerial portions perish while the root lives on from year to year, in distinction to an annual herb, which perishes outright after one season of growth and flowering. Herbaceous-grafting. The grafting of soft, growing shoots ; generally confined t(j the grafting of herbs, but the term may be applied to the grafting of the growing shoots of woody plants. Page 130. vv 342 GLOSSARY. Inarching. The joining, by graftage, of parts of two con- tiguous plants, whilst tire cion part is still attached to its parent plant. The cion is severed from its parent when it has united with its foster stock. Figs. 13S, 139. Inlaying, The insertion of a cion into a cavity or notch made by the removal of a piece of wood from the stock. Fig. 116. June-budding. The practice of budding trees very early in the season, commonly in June, «'ith the e.xpectation that the buds are to grow the same season. Practiced in the south. Page 103. Knaur. An excrescence or burr appearing as redundant or adventitious tissue upon a woody plant, and which may be used for the propagation of the plant when removed and treated like a cutting. Page 64. Layer. A shoot or root, attached to the parent plant, par- tially or wholly covered with earth, with the intention that it shall take root and then be severed from the parent. See Figs. 29, 30. Layerage. The operation or practice of making a layer, or the state or condition of being layered. [\Vord first used by the present author in 26th Report of the State Board of Agriculture of Michigan, p. 431 (iSSj I. Ei|uiv- alent lo the French iiiario/lagc.'] See Chapter III. Mallet. A form uf cutting in which a prominent transverse portion of an older branch is left upon the lower end. Fig. 61. Mother-bulb. The large or parent bulb about which smaller bulbs, or bulhels, are borne. Mound-layering. The rooting of upright shoots by means of heaping earth about them; stool-layering. Fig. 52. Nursery. An establishment for the rearing of plants. In America tlie word is commonl\- but erroneously used in connection with the propagation of wood\' plants only, as fruit trees and ornamental trees and shrubs. The OFFSET RHIZOME. 343 word properly includes the propagation of ail plants by wliatever means, and in this sense it is used in tliis boolc. Offset. A rosette or cluster of leaves, on a very short axis, borne next the surface of the ground, and in time be- coming detached and making an independent plant. Page 32. Piece-root-grafting. Grafting upon pieces of roots. Page 109. Figs. 103, 104. See also, Figs. 144-152. Pip. A perpendicular rootstock or crown, used for the propagation of a plant. Page 33. A seed of one of the "seed fruits," as apple or pear. Useit in distinction to the stone or pit of a " stone fruit." Plate-budding. Much like flute-budding (which see), except that the bark loosened from the stock is left attached at its lower end, and this flap is then raised and bound over the bud. Fig. 97. Pot-layering. The rooting of an aerial stem by means of encircling it witli earth or moss. Figs. 34, 35. Known also as air-layering, Chinese-layering, and circumpo- sition. Prong-budding. A method of propagation much like shield- budding, except that the bud bears a short branch or spur. Fig. 96. Pseudo-bulb. Generically, a corm, or homogeneous bulb- like enlargement under ground or at the base of the plant. The term is now commonly restricted, however, to the thickened bases of the stems in various orchids ; these usually stand just at or below the surface of the ground. See under Orchids, page 2S4. Regermination. The continuation or resumption of the pro- cess of germination after it has been completely inter- rupted or checked. Page 9. Rhizome. A subterranean branch or stem ; rootstock. A rhizome is distinguished from a root by the presence of joints and buds ; and it is usually thicker and more fleshy than the roots. 344 GLOSSARY. Root-grafting. Grafting upon a root. Pages 107, 109. Figs. 103, 104. See also, Figs. 144-152. Eootstock. See Rhizome. Root-tip. See Tip. Saddle-grafting. That method of grafting in which the stock is cut wedge-shape, and the cion is cleft and shpped i,lou-n over tlie wedge. Fig. 109. Scion. See Cion Seed. The reproductive body which results from a flower, and which is the product of sexual union. It is a ripened ovule. The rudimentary plantlet u hich it con- tains is the fmb)'vo. 'Seedage. The process or operation of propagating by seeds or spores, or the state or condition of being propagated by seeds or spores.- [Word first used by the present author in 26th Report of the State Board of Agriculture of Michigan, p. 430 ( 1S87).] See Chapter I. Seed-grafting. The insertion of a seed, as a cion, in a stock Page 131. Seedling. A plant growing directly from the seed without the intervention of graftage. If it is used upon which to graft or bud, it is known as a frct' s/Oik. Separation. The act or process of multiplying plants by means of naturally detachable xegetative organs, or the state or condition of being so multiplied. [First tech- nically used in this meaning in 26th Report of the .State P.oard of .\griculture of .Michigan, p. 432 ( 18S7).] See Chapter II. Set. An indefinite term applied to various vegetative parts which are used fjr purposes of propagation. It may designate a root cutting (Fig. 64), or a small bulb (as in the onion). Shield-budding. Tliat luethod of budding which makes a T'slia|ied incision on the stock (Fig. 901, and inserts a shield-shaped bud (Fig. 85) into the opening (Fig. 91). Page 95. SMIELD-GRAFtiNG STOLON. 345 Shield-grafting. The insertion of a cion witlr a wedge- sliape point into an incision like that used for shield- budding ; cion-budding. Fig. 115. Side-grafting. The insertion of a cion with a sharp or wedge-shape point into a diagonal incision into the wood on the side of the stock. Figs. 113, 114, 115. See, also, Veneer-grafting. Silver Sand. Clear white sand devoid of organic matter, used for the starting of cuttings. Page 54. Slip. See Cutting ; also, page 65. Spawn. The dried mycelium of mushrooms, preserved fn dense masses of prepared earth and manure (known as "bricks"), or in loose, strawy litter (known as "French spawn"), or in the loose earth of mushroom beds. See, also, Cormel. Splice-grafting. The joining of simple oblicjue surfaces in the stock and cion. Fig. no. Spore. The reproductive body of a fiowerless plant (or cryptogam), as of ferns, fungi, sea-weeds, and the like. It has no embryo, and it commonly consists of a single cell. Spur. A very short branch, usually lateral, which does not increase markedly in length from year to year. The normal office of spurs is to bear flcjwers and fruit. Stem-grafting. Grafting upon the stem or trunk of a plant, between the crown (or the ground) and the top. Page 107. Stick. A twig of the recent growth of any plant, bearing buds which it is proposed to use in propagation. Fig. 87. Stock. In graftage, a plant or part of a plant upon which a cion or bud is set. A /rce stock is a seedling, in dis- tinction from a grafted stock. Stolon. A decumbent shoot which, without artificial aid, takes root and forms an independent plant. The honey- 346 GLOSSARY. suckles, some osiers (as Corniis s/o/oni/o'a), and many other buslies with lunij and slender branches, propagate by means of stolons. The black raspberry propagates by a special kind of stolon, rooting only at its tip. Stool. A clump or mass of roots or rootstocks which may be readily di\'ided for purposes of propagation. Fig. 27. An established root of a bush-like plant from which shoots are grown for tlie purpose of layering. I'age 39. Stool-layering. See Mound-layering. Stove. Tile H'.irmest portion or compartment of glass- houses, used for tropical plants. Stratification. The operation of burying seeds, usually in layers, in order to keep them \iable and to solten their integuments. Page 15. Striking. A term applied to tlie forming or emitting of roots on layers or cuttings. A cutting is struck wlien it has made roots. Stub. See Clelt-grafting. Sucker. A shoot sent up from the roots, more particularly one which it is not desired sliall grow. Also used for strung and mischievous shoots in tlie top ot a tree. See Watersprout. Tip. Tile [ilant formed at the end of a stolon \\iien it strikes the ground. Tlie black ras|il>erry propag.ites n.itur.illy by tips. Fig. 2^. The branches of other plants, like the currant, can be made to strike at the tip when they are bent over and fastened in the ground. Tongue-grafting. See Whip-grafting. Top-grafting. Gratting the tO]:) or branches of a tree or bush. Pages 107, 122. P'igs. : 27-132.' Tuber. As used in this book, a prominently thickened and turgid homogeneous porliuii of a root or stem, usually subterranean, and xvhich generally does not increase or TUBULAR- BUDDING WHISTLE -BUDDING. 347 perpetuate itself (as bulbs and corms do) by direct off- shoots or accessions. Page 32. In botanical writings, the term is commonly restricted to thickened subterranean stems, as in the Irish potato and the Jerusalem artichoke. Tubular-budding. See Whistle-budding. Veneer-grafting, That style of grafting in which a cion, with the bark removed from one side, is applied to the side of a stock from which a strip of bark has been removed. Sometimes called side-grafting. Figs. 11 1, 112. Watersprout. A strong and comparatively soft shoot arising from an adventitious bud in the top or from the trunk of a plant. It is usually forced out by severe pruning or heading-in. It is an undesirable type of shoot when fruits or flowers are desired, because it e.xpends its energies for one or several seasons in exuberant growth. Water- sprouts are often purposely obtained, however, when it is desired to secure young wood in which to set buds in old trees. Page 105. Compare Sucker. Whip-grafting. A style of grafting in which the stock and cion are shaped alike— an oblique cut and a perpendicu- lar cleft ; tongue-grafting. Figs. loi, 102. Whistle-budding. That kind of budding in which a ring or girdle of bark is reniox'ed from the stuck, the girdle be- ing filled by a similar ring, with a butl attached, of the variety u Inch it is desired to propagate ; tubular-bud- ding. Page 106. INDEX. The alphabetical entries or headings in the Nursery List, Chapter Vr., are not included in this index, but all second- ary and incidental names and references comprised in it are intended to be included here. Inasmuch as many culti- vated plants of secondary importance had to be omitted from the Nursery List in the effort to economize space, the present index has been made to include the names of all the natural families o( plants which that List comprises, in the hope of aiding the student in apprehending the general methods of propagation which apply to the family of which any plant, itself omitted from the List, may be a member. This ordinal index was made a separate feature of the first edition of the book. Page Allium Ascalonicum 318 2S1 Page Acanthacete 159, 169, 183, 231, 236, 2G0, 265, 323, 327 Achras 315 Aconite 160 — Winter 231 Acontias 335 Acorns, tran.sporting 19 Adamsia 306 Adonis seeds 8 ^^gle trifoliata 76 Affinities, for graftage .... 77 African I,ily 162 Agrostemma 268 Air-layering ... 40 Akebia quinata 68 Alcoholic waxes 136 AlisniaceiE 163, 193, 2G6 Allegheny Vine i6[ Alligator Pear 295 — Cepa , — fistulosuin 281 — Porruni 264 — sativum , , 238 — Schoenoprasum 209 — Scorodoprasuni 311 Allspice 193 Almond for peach stock ... 74 — Tropical 326 Althea cuttings 68 Aniarantacea; 165, 258 Amaryllidacete . 162, 165, 18S, 190, 192, 196, 197, 213, 218, 220, 222, 228, 232, 233, 238, 239, 249, 253, 256, 257, 258, 265, 277, 279. 2S9, 303, 33[, 336 Amelanchier oblongifolia . . 260 American Agriculturist, quoted 246 (349) 350 American Centaury 313 — Cress 1S2 Aniomophylluin 320 Anacardiaceic 167, 271, 300, 311, 316, 321 Ananas sativus 2yS Andromeda seeds 20 Anethum graveolens 226 Aniseed-tree 257 Anisopetalum 193 Annular-budding 106 Anonacece 16S, 176. 178 Apium graveolens 203 — Petroselinum 289 Apocynacece 164, 166, 170, 227, 270, 279, 325, 32S, 332, 334 Apple Berry 186 — dwarfing 14S — effect on land 140 — Paradise . , 39 — root cuttings 61 — seeds, treatment of . ... 17, 19 — stock, height for 1^6 — stocks for , 74-75 Apricot, St. Domingo 270 — stocks 164 Aquatic plants, sowing seeds . 21 Aquilegias 33 Araliacece 175, 221, 240, 250, 2S6, 316 Arbor-vitce, Japanese 309 Arching laj-ers 38 AristolochiaceL"e . . . 176, 177 Arloing, on Cactus cuttings , . 194 Aroidece 160, 164, 166, i6g, 176, 177, 195, 249, 274, 2S7, 294, 297. 31 T, 315, 316, 320, 322, 335 Artemisia Absinthium .... 334 " Draciinculus . . . 326 Arthur, J. C, Geneva tester 11 Artillery Plant 29S Asclepiadacea; . . . 167, 177. 205, 241, 25s. 27r, 295, 321, 322 Asexual propagation 91 Page Ash ... 65 Aspeu 304 Asphodel 178 Atkinson, quoted. 23 Aubletia 2S8 Augur, Mr., quoted . . . . 75 Autumn Crocus 214 Avocado Pear 295 Azalea Indica 65 Balfouria 334 Balsam Fir stocks . . . 157,298 Baltet, quoted 80 Bamboo .... ... . . iSi Bandages, waxed 137 Bark-grafting 1^9 Barnard's tank 49 Bartow Courier- Informant, quoted 2S3 Bass-bark 100 Bastard Cedar 203 — Indigo i66 Basswood cuttings 55 Bead-tree . . .... 273 Bean, Broad or Horse . . , 334 — grafting 7S — dwarfs 14S Bearl)ind 19S Beard- tongue 294 Bear's Breech j^g Beech, grafting 116 Begonia 70, 71, 72 — plantlets of 30 — seeds 21 Begoniace^ 1S4 Belladonna 179 Bell-jar 44 Bellwort, Giant 2S7 Bene 318 BerberidaceiE 163, 1S2. 186, 203, 230, 259, 264, 303 Berberis vulgaris 182 Beta vulgaris 1S4 Bignoniaceai 166, 1S6, 202, 209, 229, 2-S, 326 Bindweed 19S, 215 Index. 351 rage Bird of Paradise Flower . . . 323 Bird's-toiigue Mower ..... 323 Blackberry I^ily 1S5 — root cuttings 61 Black Boy 335 — Hellebore 252 — I'ea 332 —Salsify 316 Bladder-pod 331 Blue Cohosh .... 203 Blue Flag 258 Boards, on seeds 4 Boueset 233 Boning 9S Boring seeds 18 Borraginacea; .... 167, 176, 1S9, 215, 251, 273, 276, 2S1, 2S2, 325 Botanical Gazette, quoted . . 11 Bottle-grafting 112, 132 Bottom heat for cuttings ... 53 for seeds 8 ButryauLhus 275 Bo\tvardia cuttings 61 Bowstring Hemp 315 Boxberry .......... 238 Bradley, quoted 77 Brake, Bracken 306 Bramble 313 Erassica oleracea 194, 261 — species 276, 329 Broad liean 334 Broad-leaved Chiua Fir . , , 220 Bromeliacete . . . 1S6, 191, 29S, 32S Broom, Scotch 222 Brush screen 5 Er^'Ophyllum 70 Buckthorn, Sea 253 Budded trees 148 Budding 94 Bu'Jd, Professor, quoted ... 74 Bud-grafting 79 Bugle 163 -Lily 333 Bulbels 27, 60 Bulblet 30, 60 I'a^e Bulbs . . I'u Burbidge, 1". \V., quoted . . 8), 92 Burseracea; i8r, 189, 193 Butterfly 36 Butternut 201, 259 Bitter Vetch 287 Button-wood 204 — Snake-root 265 -tree 215 Cabbage, leaf cuttings . . .70 Cactacece . , 194, 231, 2S2, 294, 295, 297, 310 Cactus cuttings 60, 65, 67 — grafting 12S CLelestina 163 Calanipelis 229 Calceolaria, sowing 20 Calico-bush 261 California Poppy 232 Calipers 143 Callistemma 197 Callus 55 Calycanthace:e 198, 209 Caltro]>s, Water ........ 328 Cambium 78 Canibugia 238 Camellia cuttings 65 — graftage 76 CampanulaceiE . . . i6r, 199, 221, 222, 287, 29S, 300, 308, 328 Campanula Rapunculus . . 308 Camphor-tree 199 Canarj'-bird Flower 329 Candleberry 277 Canellacete 199 Canna 33. 34 — treatment of seeds 18 Cape Primrose 323 Caper 200 Capparidacete 200, 212 Caprifoliacea:; 157, 226, 266, 2GS, 314, 325, 332 Caprifolium 26S Carnatiou cuttings 65, 66 — layering 38 35i Carrion Flower 321 Carrot, seed tests 10 Carthamiis tiactorius 314 Caryophyllace£e 175, 200, 249, 26S, 299, 315, 318, 325 Castalia 280 Castor Bean 311 Casuariueas 202 Caj-enne 295 Cedar, Bastard 203 — Japan 219 Celastracece 202, 203, 276 Celtrj', seed tests . 10 — sowing 4, 22 Cellars 143 Centaury 232 — American ....... . ■ 313 Cercis Japonica 68 Cereus, species . 194 Chcerophyllum biilbosuin . . . 20S Chaste-tree 333 Chauvi^re's oven 47 Cheiraiithus Clieiri 333 Chenopodiacece . 1S4, 1S9, 2S2, 321 Cherrj', dwarfing 147 — effect on land 140 — root cuttings ....... 61 — stock, height for .... 146, 147 China Root 319 Chinese layering 40 — Sacred L,i]y 277 Chip-budding 107 Chisels 119 Chocolate-tree 327 Choko 317 Christmas Rose 252 Chrysanthemum 66 — fceniculaceum 271 — frutescens 271 — grafting 7S Cichorium Endivia 230 — Intybus 2c8 Cineraria, sowing 20 Ciou-buddiug 116 —grafting - ■ 79 Page Cion-cutting 107 Circumposition 40 Cistacese 211, 251 Citrullus vulgaris 333 Citrus fruits, stocks for .... 76 — Aurantiuni 2S2 — Decum.ana 304 — Japonica 262 — Limetta 266 — Medica 212 var. acris 266 var. Limon 264 ■ — species 2S3 — trifoliata 76, 161 Cives 209 Classification of graftage . , 79 Cleft-grafting iiS Climate and graftage ... 75 Clintonia 213, 22S Cloche . 44 Cloth screens 6 Club-moss 269 Cob-nut 217 Cocoanut fiber for seeds . . 20 Coco Plum 2io Cocos nucifera 214 Coffee-tree 214 Cohosh, Blue 203 Coleuses 65, 66 Collodion for wounds .... 13^ Color modified b}- graftage . . 76 Compass-plant 3iii Combretacece 215, 326 Comfrey 62 Coiumelinace:e 215. 226, 32S, 336 Com,posit£e . . . 159, 162, 163, 166, 169, 176, 177, 178, 1S5, lS3, 190, 196, 197, 2or, 202, 20S, 2og, 210, 211, 216, 217, 222, 223, 22S, 229, 230, 233, 234, 238, 239, 24S, 249, 251, 252, 257, 263, 264, 265, 271,276, 287, 299, 313, 314, 316, 317, 318, 320,322,325,326, 331.334,336 Cone Head , -^23 — tiow^er 313 353 Page CotiiferEe 157, 175, 197, 203, 205, 219, 220, 222, 23*^, 240, 252, 260, 262, 297, 298, 299, 303, 306, 309, 316, 317, 326, 327, 32S Couifer cuttiugs 57i ^4 —grafting 115 Convolvulacere 176, 19S, 2!5, 257, 279, ,24 Coquito Palm 259 Coral-tree 232 Coriaiidrum sativum. .... 216 Cork for seeds 20 — tree 296 Cormels 31 Corms 31 Cornacece . . 179, 185, 216. 238, 2S0 Cornell Exp. Sta., quoted , , g. 23, 111,1 17, 139, 148, 174 Corn, fertility in . . . . . 140 Corypha 205 Cottonwood 304 Cow-dung for seeds 20 Cow-itch 275 Cow Parsley 252 — Parsnip 252 Cowslip, American 228 Crabs as stocks 76, 170 Crakeberry 230 — Portugal , 216 Crambe maritima 317 Crandall, C. S., quoted . . . 88 Crape Myrtle 262 Crassulacese . 192, 217, 218, 261, 317 Cress, American or Upland . . 1S2 — Curled 294 Crocus 31 — autumn 214 — sativus 314 Crosswort 219 Crowberry 216, 230 Crown-grafting 107, 129 Crowns 32, 33 Cruciferee . . . 165, 167, 174, 179, 182, 194, 200, 218, 22,=;, 228, 232, 252, 254, 256, 261. 26S, 270, 272, 294, 308, 311, 317, 329. 331. 333 Page Cryptomeria Japonica .... 64 Cuheb 299 Cucullaria 333 Cucumis Anguria 239 — Melo 273 — sativus 219 Cucurbitacese 158, 192, 219, 239, 242. 26S, 272, 273, 274, 306, 317, 321, 329, 333 Cucurbita Pepo 242 --species 306, 321 Cupuliferfe 164, 1S6. 201, 20S, 209, 233, 287, 307 Curled Cress 294 Currant cuttings ... 55, 56, 63 Currants, by tips 36 Cuttage 44 Cutting-bench 52 —grafting 131 Cuttings - 44-72 Cutting side-graft 116 Cuttings as stocks no Cycad truncheons 65 Cycadacece . . 205, 221, 227, 230, 335 Cynara Scolymus 176 Cyperacete 200, 221, 289 Cyrillacete . 222 Cyrtopodium 296 Dahlia 32 —grafting 129 Dahlias, dwarf 148 Dame's Violet 252 Damping-off . 23, 54 Darwin, quoted 77, 87, 91 Date Plum 227 Datiscacese 224 Delphinium seeds S Dendrobium Phala^nopsis . . 286 Depth to sow seeds 21 Desert Willow 209 Deutzia cuttings 68 Dewberry 35 Dianthus barbatus 325 DiapensiaccK 238 Diervilla 67 554 Page Dilleniacefe 199, 227 Dioscoreacece 227, 326 Diospyros Kaki 295 — Virginiana 295 Dip=aceee 316 Dish-cloth Gourd 26S Disoc ictus 297 Distance apart for trees .... 146 Dittany 226 Division 32, 5S Dog's-tooth Violet 232 Dorcoceras iSi Double-grafting 133 Double-working 133 Doucin stock * . 14S Downing, quoted 77 Dracaena 61 Dragon's Head 22S Dressing of stocks 96 Droseracefe 227, 229 Duck's Foot 303 Dwarfing 73> 74. M? Dwarf Pears 62 Efienacecc 227, 295 Ebony. Mountain 1S3 Ela:agnacece .... 229, 253. 31S Elichi"j-sum. . 251 Elm 65 Elephant's Foot 326 Empetracece . 204, 216, 230 Endive, seed tests 10 Ensilage Corn 140 Entomosporium niaculatuni 291 Epacridaceee 167, 179, 230 Equestrian Star 253 Ericaceae 167, 175, iSo, 1S4., 197, 202, 213, 218, 230, 231. 23S, 261, 263, 264, 265, 267, 269. 2:^7, 3 6, 310, 330, 334 Eruca sativa 311 Ervunis 264 Er>"ngo 232 EuDhorljiacea? . , . . 13R, 163, in;, 202, 210, 214, 233, 259. 271, 297, 303, 311, 322 fage Euphorbia cuttings 65 Evergreen cuttings 57, 64 Everlastings 251 Exotic seeds 19 p-aJyenia 23S Fagopvrum esculentuni . . . 192 — Tataricuni 192 False Solomon's Seal 319 Fan Palm 267 Felicia 162, 234 Fenzlia 239 Fern, Flowering 2S7 — Hartford 269 Ferns, plantlctsof 30 — solving 24 Fertility- of lands 139 Ficoideje 273 Ficus Carica 236 —cuttings 6^ — elastica 4,1 Field, The, quoted ^3 Fie", Marigold 273 Filices 224, 226, 234, 269, 2S7, 300, 304, 306 Filing seeds iS Fir, Broad-leaved China . . . 220 First-class trees 143 Five-Finger 305 I-'lavor modified by graftage . 76 Flax Lily lu- Fleur-de-Lis 236 Flo-wering Fern 2S7 — Rush 1Q3 Flower of tlie West Wind . . .336 Flute-budding 106 Fcenicnlum 234 Formation of roots 55 Forsyth's cutting-pot 51 French Mulberry 196 Frenela 197 Fringe Flower 316 P'ruit-grafting i-^i P'uchsias 65 Fuller's Herb 315 Fumariaceas 161, 217, 226 355 Page Fungus in cellars 145 ^'""1^'a 33 Galeopsis 321 Garden, quoted S3, 84 Garden and Forest, quoted . . 74 Gardener's Chronicle, quoted . 29 Garland Flower, Indian . . . 25! Ganging 143 Cicneva seed tests n Gentian 239 Gentianacea? . 209, 232, 239, 273, 313 GeraniacetE iSo, iSi, 232, 239, 2$7, 294, 329 Geraniums .... 65, 66, 67, 70, 72 Germander 326 German seed tester 13 Germ ina tors iS Gesneracete , . . . 159, 161, 181, 226, 239, 261, 277. 30S, 314,318,323 Giant Eelhvort 287 CAncp 273 (Tirdles, repairing 129 Girdling layers 3S Gladiolus 31 Glechonia 278 Globe Flower 329 —Mallow 320 — Ranuneulus 32g - Thistle 229 Glory Pea 213 Gloxinia 60,-2 — grafting 129 — seeds 21 Glyptostrobus 326 Goat's Rue 23S Gnetaceas 230 Golden Bell 236 —Chain , 262 —Drop 2S2 Goldfussia 323 Goldy-Locks 210 Goober 175 Coodenoviese 316 Goo?.eberries, by tips 36 —mound layering 39 Page Gooseberry, Barbadoes .... 295 — euttings 57, 63 — Otaheite 210 Gossypium 217 Gourd, Dish-cloth 26S ~ Snake 329 Grades of trees 142 Graftage 73-15'^ Graft-hybrid 77 Grafting 107 (.traminecc 163, 177, rS[, 190, 191, 195, 249, 270, 274, 296, 320. 324, 336 Grape layering 37 Grapes, cuttings of 53, 55, 57. 63, 64 —grafting u:, 112 iih, 117, 121, 132 Gjrass of Parnassus 289 (irass-trce 335 Green Briar 319 Green-wood cuttings 65 (jround Cherry 297 Groundsel 317 Gutta-Percha tree 258 ("iuttiferze .... ig3, 213, 238, 270 ilabranthus 336 Hiomodorace^ 219, 315 Ilaloragea^ 249 Ilainamelide^e, 192, 237, 25c, 266, 289 Hardiness and graftage .... 75 Hard-wood cuttings .... • . 62 Hare's Far 193 Hartford Fern - . 269 Hatchet Cactus 294 Haws, treatment of seeds . . . 18 H-bndding 106 Healing of wounds 126 Hedge Bindweed 198 — Mustard 232 — N'ettle 321 Heeling-in 146 Heel of cutting 55 Hclirinthus tuberosus 177 Heliotrope 66, 251 ^56 Page Hellebore, Black 252 —White 331 Heraerocallis 33 Hemp, Bowstring 315 Hen and Chickens 32 Herbaceous-grafting 130 Herb of Grace 313 Heron's Bill 232 Hews, A. H. & Co., mentioned . 14 Hibiscus esculentus 2S0 Hicoria Pecan 293 Hickories, cuttings 5S Hickon'-nuts, treatment of . . 17 Higginsia 253 Hoifs grafting device .... 120 Holly, Japan 2S7 — IMountain 27S Hollyhock, grafting 129 H0II3' seeds, treatment of . . . 17 Hoop Withy 311 Honey Plant 255 Honeysuckle 174 Hop-tree 306 Horned Ranipion 298 Horse Bean 334 Horse-radish sets 57, 6r Hortensia 256 Hoskins' wax 13S House-leek 32 House plants 65, 67 Husk Tomato 297 Husmann, George, quoted . . 246 Hyacinth 255 — cuttings 60 — propagation 2S Hyacinthus candicans . . . .238 Hydrangea 67, 68 Hydrophyllacefc 27'^, 296 Hypericace^e 177, 256 Hyssopns officinalis 256 Ice Plant 273 Ilicinege 257, 27S Illairea 267 Ipomcea Batatas 324 —grafting 129 Page Impatiens Balsamina iSr — Sultani i.^i Inarching 79i ^i. ^3- Indian Cup 315 —Currant 325 — Garland Flower 251 Indigo 257 Influence of stock and cion . . 74 Inlaying 117 Inula Helenium 230 Iridaceas 16S, ifo, 176, iSo, 1S5, 21 1, 219, 221, 235, 237, 240, 2^=2, 25S, 27S, 316, 319.3^0. 3^7. 3^9i 333 Ironweed 331 Iron wood 2S7 Ivory-tree 3^^ Jacob^ea 317 Jalapa 274 Janipha 271 Japan Cedar 219 Japanese Arbor-Vitse 309 — Rose 198 Japan Holly 2S7 Japonica 198 Jasminanthes 322 Jasmine 259 — Box 296 Jessamine 259 JuglandaccEe . . . 253, 255, 293, 306 Juncacese 260, 335 June budding 103 June-struck cuttings 67 Juniper 260 Junipers, cuttings 64 Kalmia seeds 2J Keeping qualities of fruit . . 73 Kidncj' Vetch 169 Kier's la3-ering-racks 42 Kinds of grafting So Knaurs 64 Knight, on sowing 2 Knives 97, 1 1 1 , 1 19 Knot-Grass 30J. Knot- Weed 304 357 Page "Cabiatse 163, iSi, 1S3, 195, 203, 2[4, 228, 254, 256, 263. 264, 27S, 294, 295- 297, 3'3. 314.315. 320,321,326,327 I^abrador Tea 263 Lace Bark 262 Lactuca sativa 264 Ladies' Ear Drop 237 Lady's Mantle 163 — Slipper 222 — Smock 200 Lagenaria 2^2 Lands, mauagenient of .... 139 Lantanas 70 Larch . 262 Lath screen 5 Lauracea2 . . 199, 263, 266, 295, 315 Lavender 263 Lead Plant 166 Leadwort 303 Leaf-blight 291 Ltaf Cactus 297 — cuttings 60, 70 —grafting 131 Leather Leaf 202 Lccoq'soven 4S Leguniinos^e . . 15S, 161, 162, 163 166, i6g, 170, 175, 179 1S2, 183, 191, 195, 196, 200 201, 202, 205, 212, 213, 215, 216, 2ig, 222, 223, 228, 232, 234, 23S, 240, 24[,249, 250, 251,255, 257,261,26. 263, 264, 267, 268, 272, 274, 275, 282, 2S7, 28S, 289, 290, 295, 296, 303, 306 311,318, 320,324,325,331.332,334 Lemon Verbena 165 Lentibulariaceas 299 Leopard's Bane 22S Lepidium sativum .... 21S, 294 Lepismium 310 I^cvisticum officinale 268 Layerage 35 Ligularia 317 Light, and germination .... S Lilac, cuttings 67 X Page Lilacs 33 Liliaceae 162, 163, 164, 169, 17S, 183, 186, iSB, 190, 192, 193, 197, 19S. 209, 213, 214, 215, 216, 224, 227, 231, 232, 247, 23S, 240, 252, 255, 26r, 262, 264, 265, 267, 274, 275, 277, 281,287, 289, 297,304, 306, 311, 313, 316, 318, 319, 329, 330, 331, 335, 336 T,iliuni auratum 27 — candidum 27 — pardalinum . . 27 — speciosuni 27 Lily .265 — African 162 — Blackberry . 185 Lily-of-the-Valley 3s Lily propagation 27. 28 —Thorn 203 —tiger 30 —Triplet 329 Linie, Spanish 273 Limits of graf tage 77 Linacese 232, 2G6, 309 Linkia 295 Lion's Bar 264 — Foot 264 —Tail 264 Loasacefe 188, 267, 273 Lobeliaceie 22S, 2'57 Locust sced5, treatment of . 17, 18 Lodeman, quoted . iii, 117. 148, 1S4 Loganiacese 239, 267 Loosestrife 269 Loranthacese 332 Love in-a-Mist 279 Lungwort 273 Lupine 26S Lycopodiacefe 269, 317 Lj'copodiums 24 Lycopersicum csculentum . . 328 LythraceK . . 220, 262, 263, 269, 304 IVIadwort 165 Magnoliacete .... 205, 228, 257, 260, 267, 269, 273, 316 Mahaleb Cherry 147 358 Page Mahalebs 206 INIallet cuttings 55 — for grafting 126 Mallow, Globe 320 —Poppy 197 Malpighiacece . . . 194, 270, 322 Malvaceae ... . 15S, 165, 1S9, ' 197. 217, 2^ii, 252. 254, 270, 2S0, 320 1 Mamniee Apple 270 Man-and-Wife 32 Management of nurseries . . 138 ]\Ianetti Rose 96 Mangifera Indica 271 ]\ranna tree 163 Manuring nursery lands . . . 139 iNIaple cuttings 5S ::\Iaplcs, grafting 115 INIarigold, Pot 196 Marruhiuni vulgare 254 I\Iar\-ul of Peru 274 Matrimony Vine 269 Tilay-apple 33 IMazza'ds 206 :Medick 272 I\Ielastoniace;e 176, 1S6, 190, 221, 263, 272, 320 Meliaceae , . 2C3, 273, 315 Melissa ofTicinalis 181 jMenispermacece . . .211, 213, 273 Mentha piperita 294 — Pulcgiuni 294 — viridi= 320 INIespiliis i^Tcrmanica , . .272 Mice, to protect from 146 Micropiper 294 Milk Velch 179 Milkwort 304 Mock Privet . 296 ^Moisture, for seeds i Mold in cell irs 145 Monkey-flower 274 Moonflower seeds 18 IMorellos 207 Morren, quoted 77 INIorus alba in, 275 Morus Japonica 90 — nigra 275 ^rubra 90, iir, 275 Moss for seeds 20, 21 Mottet, mentioned 23 aiound layering 39 INIountain Ash for pear stock . 74 seeds 17 —Ebony 1S3 —Fringe iy5i —Holly _ 278 INIulberrj'- 90, in, 116 — French • . . . . 196 — Paper 191 Musa parailisiaca 1S2 ^Sapientum 1S2 Musk Plant 274 JNIuslin for tying 103 —screens 6 ^Mustard, Hedge 232 JNIyconia 30S ]M3'rica asplenifolia 215 i\Iyricace:-e 115, 277 Myristicaceas 277 Myrobalan plum 148 — stocks 174 291,301 iSIyrrh 277 JNIyrsinacea; 175 :Myrtace£e iSi, 1S3, 197, 19S, 200 201, 232, 249, 272, 277 Myrtle 277, 332 Naiadacese 170, 2S7 Xasturtium Armoracia .... 234 — of&cinale 333 Xatural graft 82 Navelwort 217 Kelumbiuin 278 — seeds 18 Nepenthacete 27S Nepeta Cataria 203 Nettle. Stingless 29S Neumann's cutting-pot .... 51 N. Y. Exp. Sta., quoted f note) . 139 N. Y. Exp. Sta., seed testing . t j New Zealand Flax 297 359 Page Nitrate of Soda 142 Nitrogen in lands , . , . 139, 142 Norway Spruce stocks . . 157, 29S Nursery lands 139 Nut-trees, cuttings 58 Nyctaginaceae .... 15S, 1S9, 274, Nymphaeaceae . , 194, 278, 2S0, 332 Oakesia 330 Oaks, cuttings of 58 Ochnaceae . . , 280 Ocymura. Basilicum , 1S3 — minimum . . 183 OfTsets 32 Olacinese 2S0 Oleacete 209, 236, 237, 259, 265, 281, 2S7, 296, 325 Oleander 65, 66, 67 Olibanuin tree 1S9 Olive, knaurs on 64 —Wild 229 OnagraccEe 212, 237, 2S0 Onion, top 30 — seed tests .10 Orchidaceffi .... 15S, 159, j6o, 161, 162, 16S, 170, 182, 183, 1S8, 190, 191. 193. I95> 19^. 203, 215, 222, 225, 227,230, 262, 268, 272, 274, 280, 2:^1, 234, 296, 315, 321, 327, 328, 331, 336 Orchids 60 — seeds 20 Otaheite Apple or Plum , . 321 —Gooseberry 210 Othonna 2S7 Own-rooted trees . . .87, no, 153 Palay 334 Palmace^e 159, 175, 179, 181, 189, 190, 195, 201, 205, 214, 224, 227, 233 239, 259,261, 265, 267, 271, 288, 298,300, 3*^5. 306, 308, 313, 327. 328, 331, 333 Pandanaceas 237, 289 I'apaverace?e . . . . 175, 188, 230, 252, 272, 2S9, 2,^1,315 Papver seeds 8 Paper Mulberry 191 Page Paradise stock 73, 74, 14S layering 39 Parnassus, Grass of 289 Parrot Beak 213 Parsley, Cow 252 Parsnip, Cow 252 Passiflora edulis 242 Passifloracete 200, 242, 290 Passion Flower 290 Pastinaca sativa 28^ Pea, Glory , 213 —seed tests 10 Peach, stocks for 74 Peaches, budding 103 Peach-pits, treatment of .... 17 Peach root cvittings . . . 61 Pear, Alligator or Avocado . 295 — root cuttings 61 ~.=ieeds, importing 19 Pears, dwarf 74, 133 — manuring 140, 141 —stocks for 75. 76, 77 Pea-tree 318 ^Siberian 200 Pedalineae 271, 31S Pegging down 37 Peninsula Hort. Soc, quoted . 82 Peony, grafting 128, 129 Percskia species, stocks , , . 231 PfeifFera 3'o Phitnocodon 262 Phalangium ... 169 Phccnix dactylifera 224 Phcenicophorum 179 Phosphoric acid in lands . . . 139 Phyllocereus 297 Phytolaccace^ 298, 311 Picotia 281 Picce-root-grafting 149 Pieron, mentioned 131 Pilophora 271 Pin-cushion Flower 316 Pine 209 — dwarfing 148 Pint-apple to 360 Page Piperacea: 294, 299 Pipping 171 Pips 33 Pisum sati^Tim 290 Pitch for waxes 136 Pittosporacese 1S6, 300 Planer-tree 300 Plane-tree, knaur 64 Plantaginacese 500 Plantain I_ily 23S Plastics 134 Platanace^e 300 Plate-budding 105 Platyzamia 227 Plum, Coco 210 — dwarfing mS Phinibaginace;e 176, 303, ,^22 Plums for peach stocks ... 74 ^manuring 1^0, 141 Podophyllum :^:}. Poiretia 255 Poke 29S Polemoniaceas ... . 200, 213, 267, 297, 503 Polygalaceas 262, 304 Polygonacese 213, 275, 304. 310, 3'3. 320 ro]3'gonuin Sachalinense . . 313 Polypody 304 Pomme Blanche 306 Pontederia azurea .... 229 Pontederiacea; 229, 304 Poplar 304 Poppy. California 232 — mallow 197 Porrum 164 Portugal Crakeberry . . 216 Portulacaceae ... 195, 265, 304 Potash in lands 139 — to clean seeds iS Potato 32 Potatoes, cuttings 59. 60 Pot-layering 40 — Marigold iq6 Frairie Clover 295 Page Preparation of seeds 15 Prickly Comfrey 62 Primrose 505 —Cape 323 Primula Auricula iSo Primulace^ 167, iSo, 217, 221, 22S, 254, 269, 305, 319 Primula seeds 21 Privet, ]\Iock 296 Prong-budding 105 Propagating-frames 45 Prosartes 227 Proteaceas . . 1S2, 24S, 250, 261, 295 Pruning trees 146 Prunus Amygdalus 164 — Americana 76 — Armeniaca 174 — Avium 206 — Bcsseyi 2-7 — Cerasus 206 — dasycarpa 174 — domestica 76 — Japonica 164 — Mahaleb 206 — INIume 174 — Pennsylvanica 207 — Persica 290 — Pissardi 76 ^pumila 207 — Simonii 303 — species 300 Pseudo bulbs 60 Ptarmica 159 Puccoon, Red 315 Punica Granatum 304 Purslane 304 Putty-Root 170 P^-rus Cathayensis 307 — communis 291 Pj'Tus Cydonia 307 — Germanica 272 — Japonica 307 — Mains 170 — Sinensis 291 Quaking Grass 160 36i Page Quince . . 63, 73, 74, 77. 78, 97, 133 Quinces, layering . . . , 39 Quince stocks 292 Raffia loi Ragweed 317 RagTvort 2S7 Ranunculace:E 160, i6r, 16S, 174, 179, 19S, 211, a 1 2, 215, 225, 231, 252, 279, 2SS, 30S, 326, 329, 335 Ranunculus, Globe 329 Raphauus sativus ....... 30S Raphia Ruffia loi Rapuuculus 298 Raspberry 35 Rattle-box 219 Recipes for wax . 134 Red Puccoou 315 Redwood 317 Reed 177 — Mace 330 Regeruiination 9 Resedaceoe 309 Resting of land 140, 141 Retiuospora cuttings 64 Rhaconia 276 Rhamnacece 186, 203, 255, 260, 2S8, 310 Rhizomes 32 R. I. Hxp. Sta., seed testing . 14 Rliododendroi , grafting . . .115 — seeds 20 Rhubarb 33 — cuttings 6r Ribes aureum 220 — Grossularia 241 — nigrum 220 — oxyacanthoides 241 ^rubrum 220 Rice, Indian or Wild .... 336 Rmg-budding 106 Ringing layers 38 Roberts, quoted 139 Rock Cress 174 Rock-foil 316 Root cuttings 57. 60 Page Root-grafted trees 148 — gral'ting .... 107, 109, 132, 148 Rooting of trees 150 Root-tip 35, 36 Roots on cuttings 5,^ Rootstocks 32 Rosaceae 161, 163, 164, 166, 170, 174, 187, 193, 2c6, 210, 217,218, 225, 233, 240, 260, 261, 266 272,280, 290, 291, 297, 300, 305, 306, 307,30s, 312, 3!3>32t. 322,333.334 Rose 312 — Acacia 311 —Bay 310 — Moss 304 — seeds, treatment of 17 — stock 96 Roses 33, — cuttings 67, 68. 69 — graftage 76 Rosin-plant 31S Rosmarinus officinalis .... 313 Rowell, William M , quoted . 283 Rubiace:e i6r, 178, iSg, 190, 193, 203, 209, 211, 214, 219, 238, 250, 253, 255, 25S, 268, 270, 279, 298 Rubu*i Canadensis 225 —occidentalis 308 — phcenicolasius 334 — strigosus 308 — triviali.s 225 — villosus 187 — vitifolius 225 Rumex 320 Runners 35 Rush, flowering 193 Rutaceae 161, 162, 179, 189, 197, 209, 212, 226, 231, 241, 262, 264, 266, 282, 304, 306, 313, 335 Saccharum officinarum .... 324 Saccolabiuni 161, 296 Sacred Bean 278 Saddle-grafting 113 Saghalin 313 Salicaceae 304, 314 362 INd£X. Page Sallow 3'4 —Thorn 253 Salmia 315 Salsify, Black 316 Salt-tree 250 Salvia officinalis 314 Sandal-tree 315 Sand Myrtle 2*^4. —Verbena 15S Sandwort 175 SapindacecE 159. 162, 262, 273, 27S, 321, 355 Sapotace^ 210, 25S, 315 Sarcocarpon 260 Sarcogonuni 275 Sarraceniacea; 224, 315 Satin Flower 319 Satureia hortensis 315 — moiitana 315 Saxifragacea: 160, I 7S, 220, 224, 2:5, 237, 24r, 252, 256, 258, 2S9, 296, 511, 316, 327 Saxifrage 316 Scalding seeds 17 Scandix cerefoUum 20S Scheeria 159 ScitaminCLe 1S2, 196. 199, 217, 220, 251, 271, 275, 323, 336 ScliEefell's healing paint . . . 13S Sch(.cnoprasuni 164 Sclarea 314 Screens, for seeds 5 Scrophulariacece 165, i63, 169, 191, ig6, 205, 226. 231, 239, 266, 272. 274, 290, 294, 313, 314, 32S, 331 Sea Buckthorn 253 — Lavender 322 —Pink 176, 322 Seedage r Seeds i-:5 — aquatic 21 — cleaning 18 — depth to sow 21 —light on 8 — moisture for i Page Seeds, moss for 2r>, 21 — scalding 17 — soil for 20 —sowing 20 — stratifying j5 — temperature for 7 — testing 9 ^transporting 19 Seed-grafting 131 Selaginellas 24 Separation 26 Serangium 274. Serpentine layering 37 Shade for seeds 5- '^i, 7 Shield-budding 95 — grafting 116 Shin-leaf 3c6 Shed screens 6, 7 Siberian Crab 75, 7'^' — Pea-tree 2Co Side-graft 115, 116 Silkweed 17:' Silver fir 157 — sand 54 —weed T76 Simarubacece 163, 191, 307 Sinapis species 276 Slum Sisaruni 319 Skoke 29S Slat screens G Slip 65 Smoke Vine 161 Snake Gourd 329 — root. Button 265 Snowdrop Tree 250 Soaking seeds 2, 3, i5, 17 Soils, adapting to by graflage . 74 — for cuttings 54 Soil for seeds 20 Soils, management 139 Solanacese 179, 205, 222, 229, 259, 270, 279, 295, 296, 297, 304, 316, 319, 328 Solanum Melongcna 229 — tuberosum 304 Index. Page Solomon's Seal, False 319 Southernwood 176, 334 Sowbread 221 Sowing seeds 20 Spanish I,ime 273 Spawn 31 Spencer, Herbert, quoted ... 86 Sphagnum for seeds 20 vSpinacia oleracea 321 Spiieas 33. 69. 7° Splice-grafting J13 Spoke 29S Spores, sowing 21, 24 Sprouting chamber 14 — cups 14 — of trees 147 Spruce, dwarfing 14S Spurge 233 St. Domingo Apricot 270 St. John's Bread 201 St. Peter's Wort 325 Stag's-Horn Fern 300 Starwort 178 Statistics of nurseries 94 Stem cuttings 62 — grafting 107 Sterculiace^e 158, 261, 263 269, 322, 327 Stick of buds 97 Stingless Nettle 298 Storax 324 Storing of trees 143 Stork's Bill 294 Stramonium 224 Stratification 15 String for tying 100, 103 — waxed 137 Strawberry Tomato 297 Straw, for heellng-in 146 Stub 118 Styracacece 250, 324, 325 Suckers 60 Sulphate of ammonia 142 Sulphur for fungus 145 Sweet Fern 213 Page Sweet Gale 277 — Gum 266 — Potato 32 cuttings 59 Sweet-scented Shrub 19S Verbena 165 Syringa (Philadelphus) .... 296 Taccacete 325 Tamarind 325 TamariscineK 326 Tamarisk 32G Tanacetum vulgare 326 Taraxicum officinale 223 Tar for wounds 138 Tear Tree 222 Telanthera Bettzichiana . . . 165 Temperature for seeds .... 7 Ternstrcemiacese 160, 198, 201, 242, 323, 7,26 Testing of seeds 9 Texas Exp, Sta., quoted . . . 105 Thistle, Globe 2_;q Thomas knife 120 Thorn, for pear stock 77 — seeds, treatment of .... 17, iS Throatwort 328 Thuya cuttings 64 ThymelEeaceas . . 2:3, 227, 2G2, 323 Thymus vulgaris 327 Thyrse Flower 327 Tiger Flower 327 Tiliacese 248,320, 328 Tip 35. 36 Toadflax 266 Tomato, cleaning seeds .... iS — seed te.st 10 — Tree, of Jamaica 222 Tongueing 38 Tools for grafting .... 119, 120 'J'oothpicks for cuttings .... 67 Toothwort 225 Top-grafting 107, 122 Tornelia 27^ Tracy planter 22 Tragopogou porrifolius , , . .314 364 Page Transportation of seeds ... 19 Treed lands 140 Tree Tomato of Jamaica . . . 222 Trigonella Fcenuiii-Grarcum . 234 Trimming trees 146 Triplet I.ily 329 Tropical Almond 326 Trumpet I^eaf 315 Tsuga Canadensis 252 Tubers 32 ■ Tuber cuttings 59 . Tubular-budding 106 ■ Tulip 329 Turmeric 220 ' Turnip, seed tests 10 Turtle-head 205 [ Twig-budding 105 ! Tying of buds 100 Typhacese 330 ! Umbelliferse 160, 16S, ■ 193. 203, 20S, 216, 219, ■ 226, 232, 234, 252, 26S, 277, 2Sg, 319 Umbrella Pine 316 I — tree 269 Unions, of grafted jilants ... 87 | Upland Cress 182 j Urticacese 177, ]9i, 200, 22S, 235, 236, I 255, 269, 275. 29S, 300, 330 I Vaccaria 315 1 Vaccinium macrocjrpou . . .218 Valerian 330 Valerianacece 216, 330 I Valerianella 216 I Variegation and graflage ■ ■ . 77 Variegations 62, 72 ' Veneer- budding 106 \ —grafting 113 ' Veneer-graft union 88 , Verbena, Lemon 165 ; Verbenaceae 165, 1S9, . 196, 201. 212, 262, 266, 331, S33 Vermin, to protect from . , .146 | Vervain 331 Vetch, Bitter 287 1 Page Vetch, Kidnej' 169 —Milk 179 Vetchling 263 Viburnum, dwarfs 148 —layer 36 — treatment of seeds .... 17, iS ^'iburnums, cuttings of .... 58 Vicia Faba 334 — sativa 331 Violaceas 257, 23^ Violet 332 Virility of grafted plants ... 90 Viscaria 268 Vitaceas 166, 2ir, 242 Vochysiaceas 333 Wake-Robin 329 Wall Cress 174 Walnut, grafting 131 Walnuts, treatment of .... 17 Water Bean 27S — Caltrops 328 —Chinquapin 27S — Lily seeds 21 — Plantain 163 -Platter 333 Waxberry 325 Waxes 134 Wax Myrtle 277 Waxing the wounds 122 Weepitig trees 73 Weigela 67, 68 Wendlandia 213 Whip-graft union 89 —grafting 108 Whistle-buddiug 106 White Hellebore 331 Whitlow Grass 22S Whole-root-grafting i4y Wild Hj'acinth 316 —Rice 336 Willow cuttings 55, 5 illustrations. THE SPRAYING OF PLANTS. By E. G. Lodkman, late of Cornell Uni- versity. 3119 pp. 9:2 illustratioas. MILK AND ITS PRODUCTS. By H. H. Wino, of Cornell University 311 pp. 43 illustrations. THE PRINCIPLES OF FRUIT-GROWING. By L, 11. Bailev. ,'.16 pp. 1'_'0 illustrations BUSH-FRUITS. By F. W. Card, of Rhotle Islan.l College of Aerieultnre and Mechanic Arts, ,'>37 pp. 113 illustratioas. FERTILIZERS. By E. B. Voorhees, of New .Tersey E.vperiraent Station. 33:; pp. THE PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURE. By L. H. Baii.ev. .300 pp. 02 illustrations. IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE. By P. H. Kino, University of Wisconsin. r'02 pp. 103 illustrations. THE FARMSTEAD. By I. P. Roberts. 330 pp. 138 illustrations. RURAL WEALTH AND WELFARE. By Geoeok T. FAmnmLi., Ex-Presi- dent of the .Agricultural tlolletre of Kansas, 3.S1 pp, 14 cliarts. THE PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLE-GARDENING. By L. H. Bailev, 4liS pp. 144 illustrations. THE FEEDING OF ANIMALS. By W. H. Jordan, of New York State E.^perirnent Station. 4jU pp FARM POULTRY. By Georce C. W.^tson, of Pennsylvania State College. 341 pp. THE FARMER'S BUSINESS HANDBOOK. By I. P. Roberts, of CorneU University. 300 pp. THE CARE OF ANIMALS. By Nelson S. JIavo, of Kansas State Agri- cnltural ('ollege. 45.'i pp. THE HORSE. By I. P. Roberts, of Cornell University. 413 pp. New volumes will be added from time to time to the RjRAL Science Series. The following are in preparation: PHYSIOLOfiY OP PL.iNTS By ,1. C Arthur, Purdue University, THE PRINCIPLES OP STOCK BKEEDINli. By W, H. BllEWER, of Yale University. PL.ANT PATHOLOIJY. By B. T, Galloway and associates, of U. S. Depart ment of Agriculture. THE POME FRUITS (Apples. Pears, Quinces). By L. H. Bailev. THE GARDEN-CRAFT SERIES Comprises practical handbooks for tlie horticultur- ist, explaining and illustrating in detail the various important methods which experience has demon- strated to be the most satisfactory. They may be called manuals of practice, and though all are pre- pai'ed by Professor Bailey, of Cornell University, they include the opinions and methods of success- ful specialists in many lines, thus combining the results of the observations and experiences of nu- merous students in this and other lands. They are written in the clear, strong, concise English and in the entertaining style which characterize the author. The volumes are compact, uniform in style, clearly printed, and illustrated as the subject demands. They are of convenient shape for the pocket, and are substantially bound in flexible green cloth. THE HORTICULTURIST'S BULK BOOK. By L. H. BAlLfr. 812 pp. THE NURSERY-BOOK. By L. H. B.^ilet. 365 pp. 152 illvistrations. PLANT-BREEDING. By L. H. Bailey. 203 pp- 20 iUnstrations. THE FORCING-BOOK. By L. H. Bailey. 266 pp. 88 illustrations. GARDEN-MAKING. By L. H. Bailfy. 417 pp. 250 illustrations. THE PRUNING-BOOK. By L. H. Bailey. 545 pp. 331 illustrations. THE PRACTICAL GARDEN-BOOK. By C. E. Hunn and L. H. Bailkv 250 pp. Many marginal cuts. T WORKS BY PROFESSOW BAILEY HE SURVIVAL OF THE UNLIKE: A Collection of Evolution Essays Suggested by the Study of Domestic Plants. By L. H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell University. rOUKTH EDITION- 6IS PACES — 22 ILLUSTRATIONS — 12.00 To those interested in the underlying philosophy of plant life, this volume, written in a most enter- taining style, and fully illustrated, will prove wel- come. It treats of the modification of plants under cultivation upon the evolution theory, and its atti- tude on this interesting subject is characterized by the author's well-known originality and inde- pendence of thought. Incidentally, there is stated much that will be valuable and suggestive to the working horticulturist, as well as to the man or woman impelled by a love of nature to horticul- tural pursuits. It may well be called, indeed, a philosophy of horticulture, in which all interested may find inspiration and instruction. The Survival of the Unlike comprises tliirtj' essays touching upon The General Fact and Philosophy ot Evolution (The Plant Individual, Experimental Evolution, Coxey's Army and the Russian Thistle, Recent Progress, etc.); Expounding the Fact and Causes of Variation (The Supposed Correlations of Quality in Fruits, Natural History of Synonyms, Reflective Impressions, Relation of Seed- bearing to Cultivation, Variation after Birth, Relation between American and Eastern Asian Fruits, Horticultural Geography, Prob- lems of Climate and Plants, American Fruits, Acclimatization, Sex in Fruits, Novelties, Promising Varieties, etc.); and Tracing the Evolution of Particular Types of Plants (the Cultivated Strawberry, Battle of the Plums, Grapes, Progress of the Carnation. Petunia, The Garden Tomato, et<;.> WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY 'HE EVOLUTION OF OUR NA> TIVE FRUITS. By L. H. BAILEY, Pro- fessor of Horticulture in the Cornell University. *JM PAGES— 12S ILLUSTRATIONS — S2. 00 In this entertaining volume, the orij^in and de velopment of tlie fruits peculiar to >JortU America are inquired into, and the personality of those horti- cultural pioneers ^vhose almost forgotten labors have given us our most valuable fruits is touched upon. There has lieen careful research into the history of the various fruits, including inspection of the records of the great European botanists who have given attention to American economic botany. The conclusions reached, the information presented, and the suggestions as to future developments, can- not but be valuable to anj' thoughtful fruit-grower, while the terse style of the author is at its be.^t in his treatment of the subject. The Evolution of our Native Fruits discusses Tlie Rise of the Aniericaa (!4rape (North America a Nat'iral Vinelancl, Attempts to Cultivate the European Grape, T'he Experiments of tlie Dufours, The Branch of Promise, John Allium and the Catawba, Rise of Commercial Viticulture, Why Did the Early Vine Experiment:: Fail ? Synopsis of the American Grapes) ; The Strange History of the BIul- berries (The Early Silk Industry, The "Multicaulis Craze,") ; Evolu- tion of American Plums and Cherrios (Native Plums in General, The Chickasaw, Hortulana, Marianna and Beach Plum Groups, Pacific Coast Plum, Various Other Types of Plums, Nat've Cherries, Dwarf Cherry Group); Native Apples ( rndigenous Species, Amelio- ration has begun); Origin of American Raspberry-growing (Early American History, Present Types, Outlying Types); Evolution of Blackberry and Dewberry Culture (The High-bush Blackberry ana Its Kin, The Dewberries, Botanical Names); Various Types of Berry-like Fruits (The Gooseberry, Native Currants, Juneberry, Buffalo Berry, Elderberry, High-bush Cranberry, Cranberry, Straw- berry); Various Types of Tree Fruits (Persimmon, Custard-Apple Tribe, Thorn-Apples, Nut-Fruits) ; General Remarks on the Improve ment of our Native Fruits (What Has Been Done, What Probably Should Be Done). WORKS BV PBOFESSOW BAILEV ESSONS WITH PLANTS: Sugges- tions for Seeing and Interpreting Some of the Common Forms of Vegetation. By l. H. BAILEY, Professor of Horticulture in the Cornell University, with delineations from nature by W. S. HOLDSWORTH, of the Agricultural College of Michigan. SECOND E0ITION-4B1 PACES— 448 ILLUSTRATIONt-1 2 MO- CLOVH— (I.IO NIT There are two ways of looking at nature. The old way, which you have found so unsatisfactory, was to classify everj^thing — to consider leaves, roots, and whole plants as formal herbarium specimens, forgetting that each had its own story of growth and development, struggle and success, to tell. Nothing stifles a natural love for plants more effect- ually than that old way. The new waj^ is to watch the life of every grow- ing thing, to look upon each plant as a living creatiH-e, whose life is a story as fascinating as the story of any favorite hero. "Lessons with Plants" is a book of stories, or rather, a book of plays, for we can see each chapter acted out if we take the trouble to look at the actors. "I have spent some time in most delightful examination of it, and the longer I loolt, the better I like it. I find it not only full of interest, but eminpntly suggestive, I know of no book which tjegins to do so much to open the eyes of the student —whether pupil or teacher — to the wealth of meaning contained in simple plant forms. Above all else, it seems to be full of suggestions that help one to learn the language of plants, so they may talk to him."— L>arwin L, Bardwell, Superintendent of Schools, Bing- hainton. "It is an admirable book, and cannot fail both to awaken interest in the subject, and to serve as a helpful and reliable guide to young students of plant life. It will, I think, fill an important place in secondary schools, and comes at an opportune time, when helps of this kind are needed and eagerly sought,"— Professor V. M. Spaldino, University of Michigan. FIRST LESSONS WITH PLANTS An Abridgement of the above. 117 pages — :116 illustra- tions'— 40 cents net. WORKS BY PROFESSOR BAILEY B OTANY : An Elementary Text for Schools. By L. H. BAILEY. 35S PACES— 600 ILLUSTRATIONS— 31 . 1 O NET "This book is made for the pupil: 'Lessons With Plants' was made to supplement the work of the teacher." This is the opening sentence of the preface, showing that the book is a companion to "Lessons With Plants," which has now become a standard teacher's book. The present book is the handsomest elementary botanical text-book yet made. The illustrations illustrate. They are artistic. The old formal and unnatural Botany is being rapidly outgrown. The book disparages mere laboratory work of the old kind: the pupil is taught to see things as they grow and behave. The pupil who goes through this book will understand the meaning of the plants which he sees day by day. It is a revolt from the dry-as-dust teaching of botany. It cares little for science for science' sake, but its point of view is nature-study in its best sense. The book is divided into four parts, any or all of which may be used in the school: the plant itself; the plant in its environment; histology, or the minute structure of plants; the kinds of plants (with a key, and de- scriptions of 300 common species). The introduction contains advice to teachers. The book is brand new from start t« finish. "An exceedingly attr»«tive teit-boot." — Educational EevUw. "It is & sr'liool boot of tlie modern methods." — The Dial. "It wnnl(i be h.ird to find a better manual for scliools or for indi- vidual use,"— TAe Outlook. THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 64-6€ Fifth Avenue NeW YoRK SB f.-> -n^So NELL 1 24 o^^i col Oi 00 = ■vJs