ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass ^_,,-<:^5:;;£~, __-_- == '_ ~ From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. 3 1924 089 550_853 The original of tliis bool< is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924089550853 MODERN COOKING NUMEROUS NEW RECIPES BASED ON PRESENT ECONOMIC CONDITIONS By MRS. MARY A. WILSON (mhs. Wilson's cooking school^ Philadelphia) FORMERLY QUEEN VICTORIA'S CUISINIERE AND INSTRUCTOR DOMESTIC SCIENCE, UNIVERSITY OP VIR- GINIA SUMMER SCHOOL, CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA INSTRUCTOR OF COOKING FOR THE U. S. NAVY ALBERT R. LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNTVERSIXi THE STUDENTS EDUCATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY MEMPHIS, TENN. Printing and DiBtributing Permission Purchased By THE STUDENTS EDUCATIONAL PUB. CO. MEMPHIS, TENN. COPYRIGHT, 1920, BY J. B. LIPPINOOTT COMPANY TO MY FAMILY FOR THEIR UNTIRING EFFORTS IN BEHALF OF THIS BOOK PREFACE The influence of well-cooked, palatable food upon the health and general well-being of the family is as certain as that of changes of temperature and more serious in its consequences for lasting good or ill. The sage old saying "Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are" is as full of the "pith o' sense" to- day as in ye days of long ago, for food either makes us physically fit and fully efficient, or miserable failures with physical complications that keep us constantly in the physician's hands. The vital essences of that which we prepare for eating are "medicinal messengers" bearing light to the eye, vigor to the limb, beauty to the cheek and alertness to the brain, as vitamines, or distorted in the misdirected process are the harsh heralds of pain and debility to the human system. How great then is the influence of the one who prepares it! Influence, according to astrology, was "a power or virtue flowing from the planets upon men and things," but from the kitchen, as a sun and heat centre, there truly flows a planetary influence that makes or mars us. Scientific cooking means the elimination of waste, the preservation of edible resources and conservation of their potential energy through the preparation of attractive, vitalizing food with minimum cost and labor, thus pro- viding in wide, deep measure, for harmony, personal comfort and domestic peace. The preface of a book is too often a flat, spiritless ex- cuse for offering it to the public instead of being a hearty announcement in welcome terms of the arrival of a much- PREFACE desired provision for a real need, so I will come to the essential point at once by sa3ring that gathered here, in these pages, are my best recipes, truly "tried in the fire," the actual working result of many years' teaching and lecturing, brought "up to the minute" in the interests of that exacting domestic economy now, as rarely before, imperative in its demands. It will also be noted that the heavy cook-book style is not used here but the recipes are presented as if house- wife and author were conversing upon the dish in ques- tion, and to her I will say : economical, palatable food is within your reach if you will discard the ideas and methods of long ago. Remember, you would not prefer to ride in a horse car, as a means of conveyance, so why use the recipes of those days? The capable housewife, whose busy hands bake bread, cake and pastry, spreads forth to the community an in- fluence that is priceless, a largesse not of festal day, holy day, qr holiday, but thrice daily, wholesome and welcome as spring's first sunbeam and precious to every home so blessed, ever growing and radiating. May this book help in that growth and a greater radiation ! The Author CONTENTS Apples baked, 90 spiced, 91 apple and rice custard, 92 sauce, 92 croquettes, 93 Appetizers, 144 lum gum gue, 386 Ade honey and raspberry, 178 Artichokes, 185 Jerusalem,' 185 artichoke HoUandaise sauce, 186 artichoke vinaigrette, 186 artichokes fried in bat- ter, 186 to cook, 186 Accompaniment for lamb and mutton, 284 Baking points that will make for successful bak- ing, 3 bread, 4 sponge method, 4-5 apples, 90 meats, 126 fish, 194 ham, 231 chicken, 311 Coiling meats, 127 fish, 194 Bananas Havana banana pastry, 190 fried, 190 custard pie, 190 ice cream, 191 fritters, 192 baked, 192 muffins, 192 rice, bananas and poach- ed eggs, 192 pancakes, 193 sauce, 193 a la jamique, 325 Beverages, 331 how to prepare choco- Jate, 331 how td brew a cup of tea, 332 coffee, 333 currant sling, 334 pineappleade', 334 egg lemonade, 334 mint cup, 335 gingerale ■cup, 335 cream coffee shake, 335 raspberry punch, 335 peach' cup, 336 honey and raspbferry ade, 178 Broil pan broil, 128 fish, 195, 276 Brioche, 22 to make using bread dough, 23 Batter, 31, 96, 253 rice batter cakes, 35 Bouillon, 121 court, 194 Broths oyster, 207 Bread baking, 4 care of after baking, 5 food -value of, 6 oven temperature, 6 to prepare loaf, 9 French bread, 9 rye, 10 graham, 10 entire wheat, 11 prune, 11 bran, 1 1 California orange, 12 Boston brown, 13, 308 Scotch oat, 14 brioche, 22 Brest bread, 23 quick bread, 30 batter, 33 southern spoon, 34 Louisiana corn, 34 ginger bread, 322, 389 yesterday's bran, 326 buttermille, 327 ye old Virginia batter bread, 369 Braids, 15 Biscuits, 16, 35 rusk or tea, 16 crescents, 16 currant, 35 raisin, 35 cocoanut, 35 sweet, 36 squash, 113 Buns English bath, 16 Sally Lunn, 17 plain, 17 sticky cinnamon, 18 St. Nazarine, 19 pin wheels, 20 cocoanut, 20 Spanish, 323 Cake cinnamon, 20 almond coffee, 21 yeast raised^ 21 griddle, 24, 30 buckwheat, 25 rice griddle, 25 bread griddle, 26 corn meal griddle, 27 pan cake, 28 rice batter, 35 sponge — one egg, 39 sponge — two egg, 39 sponge — ^three egg, 39 small angel, 40' fruit cake, 40, 50, SI jelly roll, 40 one egg loaf, 41 ginger, 42 moravian spice, 42 two layer, 43 drop, 43 loaf, 43 molasses, 46 devil's food, 47 chocolate layer, 48 English seed, 49 English rocks, 50 white pound, 53 small pound, 54 large pound, 54 oatmeal drops, 55 CONTENTS Cake — continued cheese cake, 55 black nut, 56 short cake, 76 peach, 80 apple, 81 rice, 91 calas, 91 California prune, 97 Squash, 111 nut honey, 175 honey, 177 orange short cake, 292 jack o' lantern, 295 fruit, 296 raisins, 301 Aunt Polly Rives one egg cake, 308 for two, 318 angel, 367 war cake of 1865, 389 gingerbread, 322, 389 Crullers, 38 how to fry, 38 golden brown, 38 Croquettes egg plant, 58 apple, 93 nut and pepper, 150 lima bean, 59, 150 veal, 251 rice croquettes with cream beef, 292 turkey, 304 potato, 359 beef, 378 Cutlets cheese, 107 egg, 145 veal, 251 breaded veal, 251 fish, 267 lamb, mentone, 399 Cookies, 48 soft, 48 soft chocolate, 55 animal, 56 honey, 176 crumb, 199 sweet potato, 356 lace, 387 Charlotte Susse, 49 Custards coffee, parfait style, 68 fruit cup, 82 apple and rice, 92 orange and rice, 94 orange Betty, 95 frozen lemon, 102 cherry, 155 raspberry cup, 156 chocolate corn starch, 156 honey, 176 macaroni, 220 buttermilk, 327 frozen strawberry, 340 frozen cherry, 340 frozen pineapple, 340 Cocktails oyster, 139 olive and clam, 160 clam, 230 Long Island Sound, 276 grape juice, 298 how to make cocktails, 353 Conserve rhubarb and raisin, 99 cranberry, 183 Cream puffs, 183 Crabs deviled, 203 crab meat, 136 fried crab meat, 136 crab meat served in cream, 136 fried crab, 137 crab meat balls, 137 crab rabigette, 138 crab meat a la king, 138 crab meat au gratin, 140 soft shell crab, 140 Chowders salt, 228 Connecticut fish, 266 Clams, 230 steam salt oysters or clams, 228 clam fritters — Red river boathouse style, 229 deviled, 229 fritters, 230 cocktail, 230 pea shore pie, 264 Chili, 374 chili sauce, 370 chili con came, 374 Chop suey, 282 Cheese cake, 55 loaf, 232 head, 233 Italian canape, 232 sauce, 233 canape, 234 making scrapple and hogshead cheese, 367 Canape olive, 157 cheese, 234 Italian, 233, 236 tomato, 235 la brete, 235 a la'mode, 236 sardines, 397 Chicken broiled, bacon garnish, 167 emince of giblets, 167 chicken pot roast, cedar hollow style, 168 chicken and rice curry, 168 how to prepare for salad or cold cups, 169 chicken loaf, 169 loaf chicken, 169 enchildas, 170 gumbo okra, 170 chicken mousse, 171 chicken salad sand- wiches, 172 fillet of chicken, Poin- dexter, 173 chicken taraales, 174 banana stuffing for chicken, 191 baked chicken and noodles, 302 broiled Virginia style, 216 chicken a la king, 216 fricassee chicken, 217 roast, split style, 217 chicken roll, 307 dumplings, 309 loaf, 310 baked, 311 custard, 315 creamed delmonte, 409 Cider how to make, 295 champagne, 329 English wassail, 401 Chow-chow, 374 Christmas menus, 311, 394 goodies, 314 dinner, 382, 382, 394 Corn, 363 dodgers, 369 fritters, 59 baked dried corn, 110 scalloped corn, 61 cream of corn supreme, 212 Coffee, 333 almond coffee cake, 21 coffee, custard parfait style, 68 cream coffee shake, 335 Candy, 380 to melt chocolate for dipping, 380 ginger crystals, 380 bon-bons, 380 sugarless, 381 to use. fondant for dip- dipping, 381 CONTENTS Dough why dough falls, 1 dough box, 2 Btraight Vienna dough, 8 sweet dough, 23 Doughnuts, 37 with fruit center, 37 how to fry, 38 golden brown, 38 buttermilk, 328 Dumplings liver, 60 lemon, 79 peach, 80 for stew, 81 rhubarb, 100 potato, 361 tomato, 365 chicken, 309 cranberry, 402 Desserts, 67 galatin a la melba, 69 Diet for reducing, 342 Dressings orange, 95 cooked salad, 102 salad, 104 thousand island, 104 country, 114 English, for lamb or mutton, 131 Italian, 246 sour cream cucumber, 246 old English mustard, 247 rich boiled salad, 248 asparagus vinaigrette, 248 Ottawa, 249 Baltimore, 249 cheese, 249 Russian, 261 French, 261 Roquefort, 261 boiled, 261 pimento, 262 paprika, 262 blond French, 262 lettuce dressing, 263 delmonte, 390 Eggs, 239 salad, 103 poached on French toast, 105 pickled, 105 omlet, 106 deviled eggs parisienne, 106 baked omlet, 107 Moravian omlet, 107 baked eggs in corn cases, 146 eggs a la grenadier, 147 coddled eggs, 147 how to cook eggs, 240 fried, 240 cartheoth, 240 poached, 241 deviled egg salad, 250 P Flukes, 15 Fruit cake, 40, 50, 51, 296 inexpensive, 51 Rumanian, 51 grandmothers, 387 Moravian, 388 small, 388 Fillings, 57, 302 chocolate, 57 galatin a la melba, 69 dry filling, 302 wild game filling, 302 apple and raisin for duck, 303 prepared filling, 307 bananas a la qanique, 325 New England, 385 Fruit whip, 67 Fats, 178 Fruits, 212 oranges, 93 apples, 90 prunes, 95 dates stuffed with gin- ger, 101 salad, 104 bananas, 190 baked pears, 213 pear tarts, 213 baked pears in cran- berries, 214 dried fruit, 214 stewed pears, 215 quinces, 375 Foul chicken, 167, 173 squabs, 172 duck, 218 turkey, 301 guinea, 317 goose, 391 Frying, 181 Fritters corn, 59 banana, 67, 192 orange, 96 tomato, 114, 364 clam, 229, 230 oyster, 355 Fricassee rabbit, 61 chicken, 217 Fish, 193 shell fish, 135 crab meat, 136 fried crab meat, 136 crab meat served in cream, 136 fried crabs, 137 crab meat balls, 137 crab ravigottee, 118 crab meat a la ^ing, 138 tripe of oysters, 138 grilled oysters on half shell, 138 oysters on the half shell, 139 oyster cocktail, 139 oyster pie, 139 crab meat au gratin, 140 soft shell crab, 140 lobster, 141 lobster a la Newburg, 141 to broil lobsters, 141 to boil lobsters, 141 broil shad roe, 142 baked shad, 143 planked shad, 143 Long Island deep sea pie, 144 court bouillon, 194 baked fish, 194 sauce, 195 Creole fried, 195 fried, 195 sauteing, 196 soup, 205, 206, 207 deviled crab, 208 turtle and snapper, 254 shrimp, 255 terrapin, 255 stewed snapper, 256 souffle, 265 loaf, 265, 275 boiled salt cod, 266 Connecticut fish chow- der, 266 cutlet, 267 salmon chartreuse, 267 broiled salt mackerel, Flemish style, 268 salt cod, Vermont, 268 to prepare for frying, 274 grilled, 274 broiled bass, 276 cream finnan haddie, 276 filet fish, southern style, 277 fish cakes, 277 CONTENTS Tiihr-tOHtdmed Gloucester cod • la king^ 296 butterfiah, Creole, 297 tuna fish a la king, 320, 396 fried, English style, 374 filet of cod fish tartare sauce, 384 broiled mackerel, 39S parsley butter, 395 miqature cod fish balls, 3$7 sardine canape, 397 salamon a la king, 398 cod basslano, 402 Gelatine mint, 69 Garnish vegetable, 259 Ginger jelly, 100 cream, 100 delicacies, 100 stuffed dates, 101 Tom-tiddle gingerbread, 389 ginger bread, 322 Griddle cake, 24, 30 rice, 25 bread, 26 corn meal, 27 Virginia, 299 Guinea hen Marie, 317 breast terrapin style, 216 pot pie, 217 Gumbo chicken okra, 170 oyster, 202 Gravy, 302 giblet, 303 Goulash, 132 Hungarian, 393 Giblets emince of giblets, 167 minced on toast, 303 gravy, 303 Hasli Tennessee turkey, 173 corn beef, 278 Ham, 231 baked, 231 loaf, 231 English ham pie, 231 barbecue of boiled ham, 232 baked ham Virginia, 278, 400 roast fresh, 280 baked slice of ham, 283 baked sugar-cured, 398 Honey candied sweet potatoes, 174 honey rice pudding, 175 honey icing, 175 nut honey cake, 175 honey custard, 176 honey raisin tapioca, 176 honey cookies, 176 honey cakes, 177 Icing cocoanut, 20 water, 22 fondant, 44 chocolate, 45 butter cream, 45 soft gingerbread, 46 plain water, 46 orange water, 46 White Mountain, 47 chocolate butter cream, 49 honey, 175 Ice cream, 337 banana, 191 how to prepare, 336 peach, 338 strawberry, 338 orange, 339 vanilla, 339 Ices water, 341 Jelly roll, 40 Jellies cranberry, 67, 311 orange, 68 prune and nut, 98 ginger, 100 cranberry using syrup, 319 quince, 376 Juices orange, 94 Kidney pot pie, 290 Spanish kidney stew, 129 Old Philadelphia stewed kidney, 227 Xi Lobsters, 141 a la Newburgi 141 to broil lobsters, 141 to boil, 141 Muffins, 31, 193 oat meal, 32 com, 33 rice, 33, 333 mountain buttermilk rye, 223 whole wheat, 326 Mayonnaise eggless, 102 Marmalade lemon, 68 fancy quince, 376 Roman quince, 377 Measurements, 242 table of measurements, 410 Meringue, 73 Mousse pineapple, 101 chicken, 171 Method sponge, 4 Macaroni, 218 Neapolitan, 82 cutlets, 83 macaroni and cheese, 84 Polenta a la Naples, 83 souffle, 85 macaroni, olives and cheese, 158 macaroni milieuse, 219 to prepare, 219 custard, 220 Bu gratin, 221 Spanish, 288 Meats, 125, 269 roasting and baking meats, 126 Polenta al a Naples, 83 pork, 128 boiled pork, 128 roast loin, 128 Spanish kidney stew, 129 braised sweetbreads, 129 sausage cakes, 129 mutton, 130 chops, 130 to cook, 130 roast mutton, 131 curry of mutton, 131 sweetbread patties, 132 chili of beef, 133 meat loaf, 133 sweetbreads Polaska, 134 Creole be^f, 135 Spanish meat loaf, 160 if necessary to keep meat 3 or 4 days. 224 CONTENTS Meati— fontinufd fiUet of beef, 333 how to cook corn-beef, 236 puddingi, 337 ham, 231 veal, 350-351 bow to cook veal, 250 cooking fancy cuts, 351 brains, 351 Toast shoulder of veal, 252 calf's heart a la mode, 252 tripe fried in batter, 253 Creole tripe, 253 steaks, 256-357-258-259 hind quarters, 369 forequarters, 369 pot roast of shin beef, English style, 373 beef stew, 373 cold spiced tongue, 377 gickled tripe, 277 rown pot roast of shin beef, 378 pork tenderloin, 379 braised rolled flank steak, 380 {>lanked steak, 381 iver and bacon Creole, 281 Delmonico roast beef, 382 roast shoulder of lamb, 383 how to distinguish be- tween lamb and mut- ton, 384 bone and stuffed shoul- der of lamb, 385 Bengal curry of Iamb, 285 baked emince of lamb in green pepper, 286 how to use left over Iamb, 286 Iamb boiled with ra- violi, 287 Iamb haricot, 287 individual lamb pot pies, 288 kidney pie, 290 pot roast beef Spanish, 298 meat roll, 305 braised ox tails, 324 neck chops en casserole, 367 corn meal sausages, 369 neck of beef, Polish style, 371 Ye Olde Tyme pork pye, 372 English pepper pot, 373 beef croquettes, 378 Spanish steak, 378 just a pig's head and set of feet, 379 fresh country shoulder of pork, 393 Iamb cutlets mentone, 399 roast loin of pork, 402 pudding, 404 Mince Meat, 236-237 New England, 237 orange, 238 green tomato and apple mince, 338 pie, 312 how to prepare the mince, 313 meatless, 315 Ye Olde Tyme, 316 green tomatoes, 365 Menu fall, 289-297 some suggestive menus, 294 winter, 297 Halloween, 293-294-295 Thanksgiving, 306 Christmas, 311 wedding, 318 buffet supper, 320 menu No. 1, 320, 401 suppers for evening affairs, 321 a series* for one week 344-34S-346-347-348 Christmas dinner, 382, 383, 394 suggestive, 390 menu No. 3, 397, 401 New Years, 398, 400 country supper, 401 colonial, 403 midnight repast, 407 Mushrooms, 321 creamed, 59 sauce, 164 Noodles, 83 fried, 83 how to make, 85, 204 gnocchi di lemolina, 85 O Omelets, 106, 241 baked, 107 moravian, 107 in tomato cases, 113 Spanish, 146, 241 plain, 241 fluffy, 243 Ox Uils, braised with dried eea*, 133 soup, 122 braised, 324 Olives, 157 canape, 157 salad, 157 cheese balls, 157 macaroni, olives and cheese, 158 filling for meat and pudding, 158 sandwich filling, 159 sauce, 159 sandwiches, 159 Onions, 187 onions and potato mince, 187 in ramekins, 187 fried in batter, 187 French fried, 188 baked onions, 188 Swiss onion and potato pancakes, 188 onion custard, 189 braised, 60, 373 Oysters on the half shell, 139 cocktail, 139 pie, 139 broth, 207 puree of oysters, 207 stew, 307 tripe in oysters, 138 grilled oysters on half shell; 138 steamed salt oysters or clams, 228 Ye Olde Tyme oyster Pye, 300 real old Vermont oys- ter soup, 309 how to prepare, 317 grilled, 318 dry oyster pan, 333, 3S3 fried, 349 to prepare com flour, 349 au gratin Italienne, 350 spiced, 350 en brochette, 351 Yankee oyster pie, 351 deviled oysters, 351 frappe, 353 to make a cocktail, 353 broiled, 354 broiled Virginia, 354 broiled a la Maryland, 354 farci, 354 fritters, 355 a la Newburg, 408 CONTENTS Pancakes how to make, 28 for two, 28 plain, 28 Irish, 29 Belgium, 29 banana, 193 potato, 325 Yankee, 327 Puddings cottage, 44 creamed tapioca, 82 Swedish rice, 89 pea, 110 blackberry, 152 marmalade, 152 peach crumb, 153 colonial cream, 153 raspberry fruit Betty, 154 raspberry crumb, 154 buttermilk bag, 155 vanilla, 155 banana rice, 156 honey rice, 175 honey raisin tapioca, 176 Malvern cream, 177 honey apple, 178 snow, 196 fruit, 196 rice, 197 chocolate rice, 197 plum, Romany style, 198 brown Betty, 198 lemon, 198 caramel, 199 raisin, _ 200 pumpkin, 200 pear bread, 213 Welsh cheese, 225 meal, 226 meat, 227 corn, 227 orange, 291 frozen marshmallow, 341 sweet potato Kentucky style, 357 plum, 396 Pie peach custard, 74 custard, 75 lemon custard, 75 North Carolina peach custard, 75 apple custard, 76 rhubarb, 99 squash, 112 mince meat, 312 raisin, 399 mock cherry, 181 chocolate, 184 butterscotch, 184 banana custard, 190 buttermilk cheese, 328 green tomatoes mince for pies, 365 fried pies, 372 Pastry, 69 Charlotte Russe, 49 real secret, 70 custard pie, 72 cream puifs, 183 Havana banana, 190 pastry for two, 318 Poultry, 171 Popovers, 289 how to prepare, 289 Pig feet fried, 236 Prunes spiced, 95 baked, 96, 212 salad, 97 California prune cake, 97 prune and nut jelly, 98 prune delicacies, 98 prune charlotte, 98 prune sauce, 99 Potatoes, 221 cakes, 221, 363 dishes, 222 O'Brien, 222 boiled, 223 grilled, 223 sweet, 355 white, 359 au gratin, 359 custards, 360 cup for salad, 360 French fried, 361 crust for meat pies, 361 dumplings, 361 baked, 361 salad, 362 hash browned, 363 lyonnaise, 396 paprika, 397 Potatoes, (sweet), 355 candied with honey, 174 sweet potato pie, 311 croquettes, 356, 359 nests, 356 French fried, 356 broiled, 356 cookies, 356 biscuits, 357 pudding, Kentucky style, 357 pineapple, 358 cakes Georgia style, 358 candied, 358, 385 souffle, 359 New Years, 407 Puree peas, 109 oysters, 207 spinach alsaee, 118 celery, 205 Tomato, 210 vegetable, 211 Parfait strawberry, 342 chocolate, 342 Pans a la Crouton, 353 a la Cuisse, 354 Quick breads, 30 Quinces, 375 fancy marmalade, 376 jelly, 376 Roman marmalade, 377 Rolls Parker house, 14 finger or sandwich, 15 flukes, 15 braids, 15 cranberry, 182, 366 peach, 183 Rice, 86 American style, 87 Japanese, 87 Creole, 87 Indian, 88 Italian, 88 Belgian rice balls, S9 Swedish rice pudding, 89 cake, 91 apple and rice custard, 92 Rhubarb, 99 to cook for pies, 99 conserve, 99 fruit sauce, 99 dumplings, 100 Roasting meats, 126 time for roasting meat in gas broiler, 128 chicken, 217 duck, 218 goose, 391 Rabbit, 61-62 fricassee, 61 sour rabbit, 62 pie, 62 fried, 62 Chelsea, 234 Scotch, 323 Relish Bohemian, 235 corn, 406 for 8 couples, 406 CONTENTS s Salt, 4 Scones, 36 English, 36 Scotch, 37 Short Cake, 76-77 peach, 77 banana, 77 Old Virginia, 73 apricot, 78 huckleberry, 79 orange, 292 Sponge method, 4 Souffle macaroni, 83 pea, 109 squash. 111 fish, 265 potato, 359 Sauces, 160 custard, 62 caramel, 63 sweetened cream, 63 fruit, 63 vanilla, 64 lemon, 64 saboyon, 64 sweet spice blackberry, 64 cherry, 65 pudding, 65 chocolate, 65, 66 chocolate using cocoa, 66 fruit custard, 66 orange, 66 apple, 92 prune, 99 rhubarb fruit, 99 sunshine for vegetables, 116 to serve with fish, 142 tartare, 142, 165, 384 HoUandaise, 142, 166 olive, 159 olive and clam cocktail, 160 onion, 161 pimento cream, 161 supreme, 162 celery, 162 admiral, 162 Be^rnaise, 162 cream horseradish, 163 Maintenon, 163 cheese, 163 cucumber, 164 oyster, 164 mushroom, 164 parsley, 165 Creole, 165 herb, 166 mint, 166 English mustard, 166 ravigotte, 137, 167 artichoke HoUandaise, 186 banana, 193 fish, 195 pear, 213 cheese, 233 Virginia, 279 oyster cocktail, 319 cider (champagne), 329 mock HoUandaise, 329 batardi, 330 tomato, 330 brown, 330 cream, 330 Bohemian, 331 horseradish, 331 Mexican chili, 331 chUi, 370 mustard, 373, 163 tomato, 400 Syrups orange, 93 Sandwiches pimento, 90, 408 sardine, 92 salmon, 93 country cheese, 108 cheese, 108 olive, 159 chicken salad, 172 chicken and green pep- per, 215 Tiger-eye, 242 toasted cheese, 321, 390 cheese and peppers, 322 bacon and onion, 332 century cheese, 386 fruits, 386 Salads, 247, 260 prune, 97 dressing, 102, 104 gingerale, 103 egg, 103 Thousand Island, 104 cucumber, 104 fruits, 104 coleslaw, 105, 312 salmon, 105 olive, 157 EngUsh water-cress, 247 asparagus and celery, 249 shrimp, 255 a la mode Canadienne, 263 Parisian celery, 264 sardine and potato, 295 potato cup for salad, 360 potato, 362 jellied potato, 362 beet and cabbage, 405 Squash au gratin, 110 cakes. 111 souffle. 111 Italienne, 112 pie, 112 baked, 112 biscuit, 113 Spinach, 115 a la mode, 115 pudding, 116 souffle, 116 nests, 117 with HoUandaise sauce, 117 baUs, 117 puree of spinach Al- sace, lis salad, 118 a la Bourgeois, 118 Scotch style, 119 Soups, 201 how to prepare a stock pot, 119, 201, 202 bean, 120 mock turtle, 121 ox tail, 122 mulligatawny, 122 french pea, 123 fagot of soup herbs, 123, 148 pepper pot, 124 fruit, 125 how to make, 125 vegetable, 203 clear, 205 celery puree, 205 fish, 205, 206, 207 puree of oyster, 207 celery, 209 cream, 209 cream of onion, 209 cream of tomato, 210 tomato puree, 210 vegetable puree, 211 cabbage soup, 211 turkey Italian, 306 real old Vermont oys- ter, 309 pea, 392 clear tomato, 396 Seasonings French, 148 garlic, 148 Squabs baked, 172 planked, 317 Stuffings banana, for chicken, 191 Scrapple, 368 Sauerkraut, 370 to can, 371 Sweetbreads braised, 129 patties, 132 polaska, 134 CONTENTS Steaks, 258 French butter, 258 English butter, 258 London butter, 258 Swiss butter, 259 Italian, butter, 259 broiled hamburger, 259 braised rolled Sank, 280 planked, 281 Spanish, 378 T Temperature of oven, 6 Tripe fried in batter, 253 Creole, 253 pickled, 254 Tamales chicken, 174 Tarts strawberry custard, 182 pear, 213 Turtle and snapper, 254 to cook, 254 Toast cinnamon, 349 Turkey, 301 turkey meat biscuits, 303 left over turkey, 304 croquettes, 304 au gratin, 304 terrapin style, 305 meat roll, 305 pot pie, 306 soup, 306 preparing the turkejr, 385 Tomatoes, 364 baked, 364 fritters, 114, 364 au gratin, 364 roast, 365 green tomatoes minced for pies, 365 dumplings, 365 stuffed with chicken salad, 366 baked (cold), 366 baked (Chelsea), 114 country style, 114 Vegetables, 57 baked green peppers, 57 egg plant croquettes, 58 string beans Italian style, 58 carrots a la Braban- conne, 58 baby lima bean cro- quettes, 59 creamed mushrooms, 59 corn fritters, 59 braised onions, 60 baked beans with salt pork, 60 scalloped corn, 61 boiled hominy, cheese sauce, 84 pointers about vege- tables, 109 baked dried com, 110 squash, 110 tomatoes, 114, 364, 36S, 366 spinach, 115 sunshine sauce, 116 artichokes, 186 onions, 187 parsley butter, 189 cream of cucumber, 212 cream of corn supreme, 212 creamed cabbage, 246 Ecallions a I'ltalienne, 264 buttered and spiced beets, 299 vegetables a la jardi- niere, 324 Boston baked beans, 385 corn, 363 brining cauliflower, 371 Hungarian Goulash, 393 Vinaigrette asparagus, 248 W Waffles, 29 batter, 31 Whips fruit, 67 Welsh rarebit, 234 V Yeast home made, 8 to use, 8 yeast-raised cake, 21 MODERN COOKING Bread, the staff of life, must be palatable and good if we are to be satisfied with it when we eat. Can you think of anything that will spoil a meal more quickly than poor, over moist, doughy or heavy bread? Bread may truly be called the staff of life, as it will maintain life longer than any other single food. Yet many women think bread-making is a simple task ; that the ingredients can be thrown together helter-skelter and good results obtained ; or that any kind of flour will make good bread. This is a great mistake. To make good palatable bread it requires good materials, a reason- able amount of care and attention. But first of all must come the knowledge of the flour. A good blend of hard winter flour is necessary and it can easily be tested by pressing a small quantity of it in the hand; if the flour is good, it will retain the shape of the hand. Graham or whole wheat flour and rye flours can be used for variety and to advantage in making bread. Other cereal flours do not contain gluten to allow them to be used alone for making the yeast-raised breads. Keep this in mind and thus prevent failures. The yeast is a single-cell plant and must be given the proper tem- perature, moisture and food for its successful growth. When this is supplied, each little cell multiplies a thou- sand times, thus pushing and stretching the dough. This makes it rise or become light. WHY DOUGH FALLS When the yeast cells have absorbed or consumed all the food th^ they can obtain from the sugar, flour, etc., the 1 2 MODERN COOKING dough will recede or fall. Now, if the dough is carefully handled at a given time, this will not take place, and so for this reason the dough is permitted to stand only for a given length of time before it is worked and then placed in the pans. Few utensils will be required for making bread, but they must be scrupulously clean, if the bread is to have a good flavor. Potatoes and other cooked cereals may be used with good results. Compressed yeast will give the best results, and either the sponge or straight dough method may be used. Bread made by the sponge method will require a longer time to make than the bread that is made by the straight dough method. Sponge dough consists of setting the sponge and letting it rise until it drops back, usually in two and one-half hours, and then adding sufficient flour to make a dough that can easily be handled. The straight dough method consists of making a dough at the start. To make bread successfully, do not set the dough over the range, do not set it on the radiators and do not place it where it will be in a draft, to rise. Cold chills the dough and retards the yeast. Yeast grows suc- cessfully only in a warm moist temperature from 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. DOUGH BOX I would like to tell the housewife about a dough box that I have found to work very successfully. The baker's success in making bread is founded on the fact that he can regulate the temperature of his shop and thus pre- vent drafts from chilling the dough. This box is just an ordinary cracker box with the lid hinged on it. It is then lined with thick asbestos paper on the inside and then covered with oilcloth on the outside. The bowl with the dough is then placed in the box to retain its tempera- ture and to be free from drafts while it rises. In cold weather this box can be heated by placing a warm iron MODERN COOKING 8 in it when starting to mix the dough, and then removing the iron before placing the dough in the box. This box will easily pay for the time and cost in a few weeks, and then, too, it will prevent failure. Now to get the proper temperature — always use a ther- mometer. Remember that you cannot successfully gauge the correct temperature of liquids that are used for mak- ing bread by testing with the finger or by testing them from the spoon. Any plain thermometer that can be found in the house will do for this work. Scrub it with soda and water to remove the paint. Remember, in cold weather to heat the mixing bowl. See that the flour is not lower than 65 degrees Fahrenheit. All water or half water and milk may be used in mak- ing bread. When the milk is used it must be scalded and then allowed to cool. Evaporated or condensed milk does not require scalding. Simply add the hot water to ac- quire the proper temperature. POINTS THAT WILL MAKE FOR SUCCESSFUL BAKING Earthen mixing bowls or clean cedar pails make the best utensils to set the bread dough in. These utensils will retain the heat and are easy to clean, and when they are closely covered, prevent a hard crust from forming on the dough. Do not fail to give the dough plenty of proof — ^that is, let it rise for a sufficient length of time as given in the recipes. Use a good grade of blended flour. Use the ball of the hand, near the wrist, to knead and work the dough. Kneading is most important and should be thoroughly done. Do not be afraid of hurting the dough ; you can handle it as roughly as you like. Heavy, active kneading distributes the yeast organisms and de- 4 MODERN COOKING velops the elasticity of the gluten and gives body and strength to the dough. Now, a word about the baking. Bread is baked to kill the fermentation and to hold the glutinous walls of the dough in place and to cook the starch and thus make it palatable and easy to digest. An oven 350 degrees Fahrenheit is necessary. Do not have it any hotter than this. Too much heat browns the loaf before it has time to bake in the centre. SALT Salt controls the action of the yeast. It also retards or delays the proper fermentation if too large an amount of it is used. Then again, if not enough salt is added to the mix, the yeast becomes too active and thus produces an overlight loaf of bread. One ounce of salt to each quart of liquid in summer, and three-fourths of an ounce in winter will give the best results to the home baker. BAKING THE BREAD Now turn on a moulding board and cut into five parts or loaves. Allow about nineteen ounces to each loaf. Take the dough up between the hands and work into a round ball. Place on the moulding board and cover for ten minutes. Now with the palm of the hand flatten out the dough and then fold half-way over, pounding well with the hand. Now, take the dough between the hands and stretch out, knocking it against the moulding board, fold in the ends and shape into loaves. Place in well- greased pans and brush the top of each loaf with shorten- ing. Cover and let rise for 45 minutes. Bake in a hot oven for 45 minutes and brush with shortening when removing from the oven. Let cool and then the bread is ready to use. SPONGE METHOD Generally speaking, the sponge method produces a MODERN COOKING 6 lighter and whiter loaf than the bread made by the straight dough method. Bread made by the straight dough method has the advantage over bread made by the sponge method in flavor, texture and keeping qualities. SPONGE METHOD One quart of water or half Two and one-half quarts water and half milk, 80 or two and one-half degrees Fahrenheit pounds of flour Two yeast cakes One ounce of sugar Dissolve the sugar and yeast in the water and add the flour. Beat to thoroughly blend and then set aside to rise for three hours, then add One ounce of salt One and one-half quarts or One and one-half ounces of one and one-half pounds shortening of flour Work to a smooth elastic dough. This takes usually about ten minutes, after the flour is worked into the dough. Place in a greased bowl and then turn over the dough to coat with shortening. This prevents a crust from forming on the dough. Set aside to rise for two hours and then pull the sides down to the centre of the dough and punch down. Turn the dough over and let rise for one and one-quarter hours. THE CARE OF THE BREAD AFTER BAKING The jar, crock or box in which the bread is kept should be scrupulously clean. It should be scalded and aired one day every week in winter and three times weekly during the spring, summer and early fall. Keep the fact in mind that the bread kept in a poorly ventilated box will mould and spoil and thus be unfit for food. Place the freshly baked bread on a wire rack to thor- oughly cool before storing. Do not put old bread in the box with the new baking. Plan to use the stale bread for 6 MODERN COOKING toast, dressings, bread and cabinet puddings, croutons and crumbs. THE FOOD VALUE OF BREAD Wheat contains the sixteen needed elements for nutri- tion, and when made into palatable bread, it forms about 40 per cent, of our total food requirements. Stale bread digests much easier than fresh bread for the reason that when thoroughly masticated in the mouth the saliva acts directly upon the starchy content. Fresh bread, unless thoroughly chewed, so that it may be well broken up, be- comes a hard, pasty ball in the stomach, which requires that organ to manufacture the additional gastric juices to break up this dough ball. Bread from one to three days old easily digests. Gra- ham and whole wheat breads contain a larger percent- age of nutriment than the white breads. OVEN TEMPERATURE Many housewives feel that it is impossible to secure accurate results in baking in the gas range ; this is due to the fact that few women really understand the principle of baking with gas. To secure a slow oven, light both burners and let them burn for five minutes; then turn both of them down low, turning the handle that controls the flow of gas two- thirds off. This will maintain a steady even heat. A slow oven requires 250 to 275 degrees Fahrenheit of heat. A moderate oven is 350 to 375 degrees Fahrenheit of heat. It can be obtained by burning both burners of gas range for eight minutes and then turning them down one-half to maintain this heat. A hot oven requires 425 to 450 degrees Fahrenheit and will need to have the burners burning twelve minutes and then turned off one-quarter. This heat is intense and entirely too hot for breads, pastries and cakes. Meats require this heat for one-half MODERN COOKING 7 of the length of time in the period of cooking. This heat is also necessary for broiling, grilling, etc. Now, also try to utilize the full oven space when bak- ing by cooking two or more dishes at the same time. Vegetables may be placed in casseroles or earthen dishes or even ordinary saucepans ; cover them closely and cook in the oven until tender. This will not injure other foods baking in the oven. Do not place breads, cakes and pastries upon the top shelf; rather, place them on the lower shelf and cook in moderate oven. Do you know that there are still among us women who firmly believe that placing other foods to cook in oven with cake will surely spoil it? This is a mistake; utilize every bit of oven space. An oven thermometer soon pays for itself. Pay strict attention to heating the oven ; if the oven is too hot, the heat is wasted, while it cools sufficiently. This wastes gas. When food is first placed in the oven, keep oven door closed for first ten minutes and then open when necessary. Placing food in oven will materially reduce the heat. Do not try to increase the heat ; just as soon as the mix- ture acquires the heat, the baking will begin in the usual manner and the dish will be ready to remove from oven in given time. Never keep the oven waiting for the food; rather let food remain in cool place while oven is heating. Before mixing materials select the pans that will best fit the oven. This does not mean that you must discard your present equipment. It means that you should place in groups such pans that entirely fill oven space without crowding. Keep this fact in mind when purchasing new utensils. The best and whitest rye flour is milled from the centre of the grains in a manner similar to wheat flour. When only the bran is removed from the milling, we have the 8 MODERN COOKING darker flour, carrying a heavy pronounced flavor. The rye meal is used for making pumpernickel, a Swiss and Swedish rye flour bread. HOME-MADE YEAST Wash four potatoes and then cut in slices, without peeling, and place in saucepan, and add three pints of water. Cook until the potatoes are soft and then add One-half cupful of hops. Cook slowly for one-half hour. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve and then pour hot mixture on One and one-half cupfuls One-quarter cupful of of flour brown sugar One taUespoonful of salt Stir until well mixed, beating free from lumps. Cool to 80 degrees Fehrenheit. Now add One yeast cake dissolved in one cupful of water, 80 degrees Fahrenheit Stir well to mix and then let ferment in a warm place for ten hours. Now pour into jar or crock and store in a cool place. TO USE Use one and one-half cups of this mixture in place of the yeast cake. Always stir well before using and take care that the mixture does not freeze. This potato fer- ment must be made fresh every eighteen days in winter and every twelve days in summer. STRAIGHT DOUGH VIENNA One quart of water or milk One ounce of salt One ounce of sugar Stir well to thoroughly dissolve, and then add MODERN COOKING 9 Two yeast cakes Four quarts of flour • One and one-half ounces of shortening Work to a smooth dough and then knead for ten minutes. Then place in a well-greased bowl, turning the dough over to thoroughly coat. This prevents a crust from forming on the dough. Cover the bowl and set aside to rise for three and one- half hours. Now lay over the dough by pulling in to- ward the centre, the sides and ends of the dough until it forms a compact mass. Turn over the dough, cover and let rise for one hour. Now place on the moulding board and proceed to form into loaves, using the same method as in the sponge dough. TO PREPARE LOAF When the dough is ready to mould into loaves, pro- ceed ; using method as given in sponge dough, finally roll- ing the loaf on the moulding board, making it pointed at the ends. Now place a clean cloth in a deep baking pan and sprinkle the cloth with cornmeal. Place the loaf of dough on the cloth and sprinkle it lightly with corn- meal. Now lift the cloth up close to the dough, making a cloth partition between each loaf. Let the dough rise, about 45 minutes, and when ready to bake, lift dough carefully from the cloth and lay on a baking sheet and gash slightly with a sharp knife. Wash with an egg and water, wash and bake forty-five minutes in a hot oven, adding a small saucepan of boiling water to provide steam to keep the loaf moist while baking. One-half of above recipes for small family. TO MAKE THE FAMOUS FRENCH BREAD Pare and cut in slices two medium-sized potatoes. Cook until very soft in three cups of water. When cooked rub through a sieve and cool. There must be two cups of this mixture. When the mixture is about 80 de- grees Fahrenheit, pour in the mixing bowl and add 10 MODERN COOKING One yeast cake crumbled in One ounce of sugar (2 One-half ounce of shorten- tablespoons) ing (1 tablespoon) Three-fourths ounce of salt (2 teaspoons) Stir to thoroughly dissolve and then add eight cups of flour. Work to a dough and then proceed as in the straight dough method. When the dough is ready for the pans, cut or divide into six pieces and mould into loaves, three inches thick and twelve inches long, and set to rise like the Vienna bread, then bake, using the same method. RYE BREAD Two tablespoonfuls of Two cupfuls of water, 80 sugar degrees Fahrenheit Two teaspoonfuls of salt Mix and then add One yeast cake Two tablespoonfuls of Five cupfuls of white flour shortening Three cupfuls of rye flour Work to a dough and ferment three and one-quarter hours, then proceed as in the straight dough method. When the dough is ready for the pans use the same method as for Vienna bread. Bake in a similar manner, having the oven heated to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. ^ Rye bread requires an oven hotter than for wheat bread. Wash the rye bread when taking it from the oven with warm water. Caraway seeds may be added if desired. GRAHAM BREAD Two cupfuls of water, 80 Two tablespoonfuls of degrees Fahrenheit sugar Four tablespoonfuls of Two teaspoonfuls of salt syrup MODERN COOKING 11 Stir until dissolved and then crumble in one yeast cake, dissolve thoroughly, and then add Four cupfuls of white flour Three tdblespoonfuU of Three and one-half cupfuls shortening of graham flour Work to a dough and then proceed as in the straight dough method. ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD Two cupfuls of water Two tablespoonfuis of Three tablespoonfuis of sugar syrup Two teaspoonfuls of salt Mix thoroughly and then crumble in one yeast cake and stir until dissolved, then add Seven and a half cupfuls of wheat flour Work to a smooth elastic dough and proceed as in a straight dough. PRUNE BREAD Wash to thoroughly cleanse one-half pound of prunes and then stone and with a pair of scissors cut into small pieces the size of a raisin. When the bread is ready to go into the pans add the prunes and knead the dough well to distribute the prunes. Then place in pans and proceed as usual. BRAN BREAD Two cupfuls of water, 80 Three tablespoonfuis of degrees Fahrenheit syrup One-half cupful of mashed Two tablespoonfuis of potatoes sugar Two teaspoonfuls of salt Mix and then crumble in one yeast cake. Stir until dissolved, and then add Six cupfuls of wheat flour Two and one-half cupfuls of bran 12 MODERN COOKING Proceed as in the straight dough method. CALIFORNIA ORANGE BREAD Grate the rinds of two oranges and then place in a bowl and add One cup of orange juice. Four tablespoonfuls of •warmed to 80 degrees sugar Fahrenheit One and a half teaspoon- Two tablespoonfuls of fuls of salt melted shortening One egg Beat to mix and then dissolve one yeast cake in one cup of water 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and add to the above mix- ture ; then work in sufficient flour to make a smooth elas- tic dough; usually about eight cups. Place in a greased bowl and turn the dough to thoroughly coat with grease. Cover and let rise for three hours. Pull the corners of the dough to the centre and punch down, turn over and let rise again for one hour. Repeat the pimching down and then let rise for three-quarters of an hour. Turn out on a moulding board and mould into three loaves, adding One-half cupful of seeded One-half cupful of chopped raisins to one loaf almonds to second loaf and keep the third loaf plain. Place in greased pans and let rise for three-quarters of an hour. Bake in the hot oven for 40 minutes. The temperature of the oven should be 400 degrees Fahrenheit. This bread is delicious for sandwiches. Undoubtedly one of the causes of the failure in making breads at home is that the process is hurried and the bread is insufficiently baked. The size and shape of the pans affect the quality of the bread. Avoid too deep or shallow pans. A pan, 7}4 by 4J4 inches, will give the best results. Turn the bread on a wire cake rack to cool. This per- mits the free circulation of air. MODERN COOKING 18 BOSTON BROWN BREAD Place in a bowl Two cups of bread crumbs One teaspoon of bakmg One-half cup of syrup soda One tablespoon of water Dissolve the baking soda in the tablespoon of water and add Two cups of hot water Beat to mix and then let cool, add One-half cup of graham flour One-half cup of commeal Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour in well-greased moulds and cover and steam or boil for one and one-half hours. Remove the cover and place in a slow oven for twenty minutes to dry out. A one-pound coffee can makes a splendid mould. BOSTON BROWN BREAD Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half teaspoons Two-thirds cup of molasses of baking soda Two cups of sour milk Stir to thoroughly dissolve the soda, then add Two-thirds cup of graham One cup of rye flour flour One-half cup of seeded One cup of commeal raisins Beat to thoroughly mix and then grease thoroughly one-pound coffee can and fill two-thirds full with this mixture. Put on the lid and steam for two hours, then remove the lid and place the can in the oven to dry out. One-pound baking-powder cans may be used to replace the coffee cans. 14 MODERN COOKIN® SCOTCH OAT BREAD Place in a bowl One cupful of scalded milk One cupful of water, 80 cooled to 80 degrees degrees Fahrenheit Fahrenheit One-half cup of syrup Two teaspopnfuls of salt Crumble in one yeast cake and then mix until the yeast cake is dissolved and then add Four cupfuls of flour Beat to mix and then let the sponge rise for two and a half hours. Now add Two cupfuls of rolled oats Two cupfuls of flour Knead to smooth elastic dough and then place in a greased bowl, turning the dough to coat thoroughly with shortening. Let rise for one and three-quarters hours. Pull the corners down to the centre and punch down. Turn over and let rise for one hour. Now turn out on moulding board and cut into loaves. Shape between the hands and place on the moulding board and cover. Let spring for ten minutes and then shape for pans. Place in well-greased pans and brush the tops of loaves with melted shortening. Let rise forty minutes. Bake in hot oven. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS Place in a bowl Three tablespoons sugar, Four tablespoons One and one-half teaspoon- shortening fids salt Scald and pour into the bowl One and one-half cups of milk Stir to thoroughly blend; cool to 80 degrees Fahren- MODERN COOKING 16 heit. Now crumble in one yeast cake, stirring until thor- oughly dissolved, then add Six cups of sifted flour Knead to smooth elastic dough ; clean out the bowl and grease thoroughly, place in the bowl and press firmly against the bottom, turn over; then cover and set aside to rise for three and one-half hours. Punch or knead down, turn over and let rise one hour. Now turn out on moulding board and shape like a long French loaf, and with scissors or French knife cut into pieces the size of a large egg. Roll quickly between the hands to form a round ball, set on moulding board and let rise for ten minutes. Flatten out, using small rolling pin or palm of hand, brush with shortening, fold pocketbook style and set on well-greased baking sheet two inches apart to rise for twenty minutes ; bake in hot oven for fifteen minutes, brush with melted shortening as soon as removed from oven. FINGER OR SANDWICH ROLLS Use the Parker House roll dough, cutting it into pieces one and one-half ounces in weight. Mould into balls and then set on a board and cover for ten minutes to let spring. Now mould into finger shapes and place on greased pans and proceed as in Parker House rolls. FLUKES Prepare as for finger rolls, pointing the dough at both ends by rolling into a shape similar to a sweet potato. BRAIDS Break off pieces of the dough three-quarters of an ounce in weight and then mould into balls ahd let spring for five minutes. Now mould out into rope-shaped pieces a little longer than a lead pencil. Fasten the three pieces together and then plait. Proceed as for finger rolls. 16 MODERN COOKING RUSK OR TEA BISCUITS Prepare dough as for Parker House rolls, cut and form in small-sized balls, cover, and let rise ten minutes. Now, round up by rolling between the hands, set very closely together in deep, well-greased pans, let rise forty minutes, bake in a moderate oven; brush with syrup and water and dust with sugar as soon as removed from the oven. CRESCENTS Use the Parker House roll dough and then break off into pieces weighing about twelve ounces. Mould into balls and then cover and let spring for ten minutes. Now roll out the dough one-half inch thick with rolling pin and cut into five-inch squares. Cut each square into a triangle and brush lightly with shortening. Roll from the cut side towards the point, lapping the point closely. Form into crescent when setting in well-greased pan, brush with shortening and cover and let rise for eighteen minutes. Wash with milk and water. Bake for eighteen minutes in a hot oven. ENGLISH BATH BUNS Melt four ounces of butter and then place in a mixing bowl and add One-half cup of sugar One cup of scalding milk, cooled to 80 degrees Then add One teaspoon of salt Two well-beaten eggs One-half yeast cake Stir to thoroughly mix and then add four cups of flour and work to a smooth elastic dough. Grease the mixing bowl well and then put in the dough. Press down well and then turn over. Cover and set to rise for four hours, then turn on a moulding board and knead for two minutes. Cut into pieces for biscuits. Roll between the MODERN COOKING 17 hands into round balls and then cover and let set on the moulding board for ten minutes:. Now press flat with the hands and let rise on a well-greased baking sheet. Let rise for thirty minutes, then brush with a mixture of Four tablespoonfuls of Two tahlespoonfuls of syrup water Bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. SALLY LUNN Place in a mixing bowl One cup scalded milk, Four tahlespoonfuls of cooled to 80 degrees shortening One-half cup sugar One well-beaten egg One-half yeast cake crumbled in Beat to thoroughly blend, and then add Two and three-quarters One teaspoonful of salt cupfuls of sifted flour Beat well, cover and let rise for three hours, beat again. Now grease thoroughly an oblong or round baking pan ; take the Sally Lunn and beat for five minutes, pour into the prepared pan, having the dough fill the pan about one-half; let rise twenty minutes in warm place, bake in hot oven twenty-five minutes, then dust with sugar, PLAIN BUNS Weigh out eighteen ounces of dough and divide into one dozen pieces. Mould into balls and let spring for ten minutes. Now mould up nice and round and then set close together on a well-greased pan. Let rise for thirty- five minutes, and then brush the tops with tgg and water ; wash and dust lightly with sugar. Bake for eighteen minutes in a hot oven. A small pan of boiling water may be placed in the oven when baking these rolls. For variety's sake, part of the dough may be baked 18 MODERN COOKING plain. To the balance add caraway seeds, a little citron, nutmeg or a few currants. If carefully baked and cooled, these rolls may be stored in an air-tight box and they will keep for several days. To reheat, place in an oven with a pan of boiling water for ten minutes to freshen. Egg wash : One egg and one- fourth cup of milk ; beat to mix; apply with small paint brush. STICKY CINNAMON BUNS Scald one cup of milk and then place One-half cupful of sugar Four tablespoonfuls of One teaspoonful of salt shortening in the mixing bowl, and pour over it the scalded milk. Stir to thoroughly mix and then cool to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Now dissolve one-half yeast cake in one- half cupful of water 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and when the milk is at the proper temperature, add six cupfuls of flour and work to a smooth dough. Place in a well- greased bowl, turning the dough around in the bowl so that it will be thoroughly coated with shortening. Cover and let rise three and one-half hours. Now pull the sides of the dough into the centre and punch down, turning the dough over. Let rise again for one hour, then turn on a moulding board and divide the dough in half. Knead each piece into a ball. Cover and let rise or spring for ten minutes. Now roll out one-quarter inch thick, using a rolling pin. Brush with melted shortening and sprinkle well with brown sugar, using about one cupful. Now dust with two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon and spread over the prepared dough one and one-half cupfuls of cur- rants or small seedless raisins. Begin at the edge and roll like a jelly-roll. Cut in pieces one and one-half inches thick and then place in prepared pans and let rise for one hour. Then bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. MODERN COOKING 19 To prepare the pan for the cinnamon buns : Grease the pan very thickly with shortening and then spread one cupful brown sugar and one-half cupful of currants or small seedless raisins evenly over the bottom of the pan. Place buns in pan and let rise for one hour in a warm place, then bake in a moderate oven for thirty- five minutes. Now for the trick. When the buns are baked, brush the pastry board with shortening, then place Two tablespoonfuls of One tablespoonful of water brown sugar in a saucepan, mix thoroughly, and then bring to a boil. Now, just as soon as the buns are baked, turn from the pan at once and brush well with the prepared syrup, brushing the bottom with the syrup, as brushing the candied part of the buns prevents it from hardening. Let cool and then use. ST. NAZAIRE BUNS Prepare the dough as for cinnamon buns and when ready to turn on the moulding board add One cupful of finely One-half cupful of brown shredded citron sugar One cupful of seeded raisins Work well to distribute the fruit and then form into a long roll three inches thick. Cut off pieces about one and one-half ounces and form into buns. Let rest for fifteen minutes and then roll into round buns and place in a well- greased baking pan and let rise for thirty minutes. Make a hole in the centre of each bun with a small wooden stick and wash the buns with egg and milk. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Cool, and then fill the centre with jelly, and ice with water icing. 20 MODERN COOKING PINWHEELS Prepare the dough and roll as for cinnamon buns ; cut in slices one-half inch thick; place inch apart in well- greased baking sheet, let rise twenty-five minutes, brush with egg wash ; sprinkle with finely chopped peanuts and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. CINNAMON CAKE You can use part of the dough for cinnamon cake. Cut the dough into pieces and then roll out three-fourths of an inch thick. Place in pans, stretching and rolling the dough to fit pan. Brush with shortening and then cover with crumbs, made as follows : Six tablespoonfuls of flour Two tablespoonfuls of Four tablespoonfuls of shortening brown sugar Two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon Rub the mixture until crumbly and then spread as di- rected. Let rise thirty-five minutes, bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. COCOANUT ICING One-half cupful of con- One-half cupful of fectioner's sugar cocoanut Sufficient hot water to moisten Spread on the buns with a spatula. COCOANUT BUNS Prepare the dough just the same as for cinnamon buns and when ready to turn on a moulding board add One cupful of cocoanut Three tablespoonfuls of shortening Knead to mix and then work the dough into a long roll about three inches thick and then break into pieces the size of a large egg. Now mould until round and then let rise on the board for ten minutes. Mould again, shaping MODERN COOKING 21 oblong. Place on a well-greased pan and brush the buns with melted shortening. Let rise for thirty minutes and then bake in a hot oven and ice with cocoanut icing. ALMOND COFFEE CAKES Prepare the dough as given in the recipe, using the balance left for either cinnamon or cocoanut buns. When ready to turn on a moulding board cut the dough in half and roll each piece out one-quarter of an inch thick. Spread with shortening and then lightly with brown sugar and with one-half cupful of finely shredded al- monds or peanuts. Roll like a jelly roll. Press flat with a rolling pin until just one inch thick. Cut in pieces six inches long and then place in a well-greased baking pan and let rise thirty-five minutes. When ready to bake, cut a gash three inches long on each cake. Wash with egg and milk and strew with finely shredded almonds. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Ice with water icing. HOW TO MAKE YEAST-RAISED CAKE Scald one cupful of milk and add one-half cupful of cold water. Cool the mixture to 80 degrees. Now add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt. Crumble one yeast cake in the mixture and stir thor- oughly until the yeast is dissolved. Now add four cup- fuls of sifted fiour and beat to a light batter. Cover, and set in a place free from drafts, where it will be kept warm in a temperature of 80 degrees and let rise for three hours. Now beat the dough with a spoon and let rise again for three-quarters of an hour. Now, while the dough is raising last time, place one cupful of sugar and one-half cupful shortening in a bowl and cream until light and frothy. Add two eggs, one at a time, and beat until very light. When the dough is ready, add the sugar, eggs, shortening and one and one-half cupfuls of flour; beat this mixture with spoon for twelve minutes 22 MODERN COOKING iintil thoroughly mixed. Now pour in prepared mould filling the mould half full. Set in warm place, with a temperature of about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, to rise for one and one-quarter hours or until the mixture fills the mould. Bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Remove the cake from the mould and cool on a wire rack. This cake may be iced or served plain ; or chopped nuts, raisins or citrons may be added to the dough with the sugar and eggs. To prepare the pans; grease them thoroughly, then coat them with finely chopped nuts or fine cake crums before pouring in the dough. BRIOCHE Brioche is a French sweet bread and while different authorities do not agree as to both the consistency and methods, without doubt these cakes figure largely in French cuisines. One French bakery prepares the brioches in loaf form and when cold it is cut in slices and steeped in orange syrup. Then again the brioche is spread with jam and then covered with icing or the brioche may be steeped with prepared syrup and then dipped in a batter and fried golden brown in hot fat. Spread with jam and serve with orange or lemon sauce. The actual preparation of the brioche involves very little trouble and can be made from bread dough on bak- ing day. Now one point in making these sweet breads — ^there is just the same trick as in moulding the loaf of bread. One can learn by careful attention to details and with practice. Some stress may well be laid upon the lightness of the dough ; for heavy, overrich dough that is poorly baked is injurious to health. WATER ICING Six tablespoonfuls of confectioner's sugar and suffi- cient water (boiling) to moisten. MODERN CX)OKING 28 BREST BREAD Roll the dough into three strands about one inch thick and ten inches long. Fasten the three strands together and then braid. Place on a well-greased pan and let rise. Wash with egg and milk and then bake for twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Spread with jelly and then ice with water icing. Sprinkle with slightly browned cocoanut. TO MAKE BRIOCHE USING BREAD DOUGH When the bread is ready to put in the pan cut off one pound and place the dough in a bowl. Now place in a separate bowl. Yolks of two eggs One-half cup shortening Three-quarter cupful sugar Cream until light and frothy, then add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, also One-half cup of milk One pound piece of yeast Four cups of flour raised dough Work or knead until smooth and elastic. Place in a greased bowl and let rise for three hours; now turn on board, divide into eight pieces and mould into balls. Cover and let rise for ten minutes. Now roll out one- half inch thick. Brush with shortening, strew with brown sugar and nuts. Roll like jelly roll and then flatten well with rolling pin. Place in a greased pan, cover and let rise for one-half hour. Now cut down the entire length of the dough, leaving two inches on each end. Wash with ^gg wash and bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Sprinkle with sugar, then return to oven five minutes. SWEET DOUGHS In the days of long ago, yeast, ammonia, pearly ash, honey water and a treacle mixture were used to lighten 24 MODERN COOKING cakes — before the time of dependable baking powder. In Europe the housewife makes from bread dough de- licious cakes with yeast. These provide splendid variety. They include savarins, babas, and yeast-raised fruit cakes. Many women fail in making these delicious goodies be- cause they do not realize that the addition of large amounts of sugar, fruit, shortening and eggs to yeast dough, unless carefully handled, is apt to produce heavy, moist cakes that lack the light, velvety texture which makes cake a success. The addition of nuts, cake crumbs and fruit will afford a large variety. A sponge dough is necessary for successful results. GRIDDLE CAKES To bring the true nut flavor from the buckwheat we must go back to old-fashioned method of setting the buckwheat to rise overnight. Don't you remember the brownstone crock that was kept in the pantry and each time it was left with just enough of the mixture to start a new batter? The buckwheat would be prepared each night just before bedtime, and in the morning a cup of warm water was added, together with a couple of table- spoonfuls of syrup. The mixture was beaten and then the griddle was put on to heat. Sometimes it was a soap- stone or a heavy iron griddle. When well heated it was rubbed with a piece of cut turnip or potato. The batter was poured on in large platter-sized cakes and then as quickly as they browned they were dexterously turned to brown again. To make perfect buclcwHeat calces you must first of all obtain a stone-ground flour, and then it must be blended in proportion. Good, lively yeast is added, and if milk is used for the mixing it must be scalded and then cooled before using. To prepare the flour for the mixing: MODERN COOKING 25 Three pounds of buck- One pound of corn flour wheat flour One ounce of salt One and one-half pounds One-half ounce of baking of wheat flour soda Sift twice to thoroughly mix and then place in a dry container and the flour is then ready to use. BUCKWHEAT CAKES Scald and then rinse out with cold water a large stone crock. Pour in one cupful of scalded and cooled milk and One and one-half cupfuls Two tablespoonfuls of of water, 80 degrees sugar Fahrenheit, Crumble in one-half of an yeast cake and stir until dis- solved, then add three cupfuls of the prepared buckwheat flour. Beat to thoroughly mix and then cover and set aside overnight to rise. In the morning add sufficient lukewarm water to bring the mixture to a pouring con- sistency. This usually requires about one cupful. Add two tablespoonfuls of syrup. Beat hard for three minutes and then let stand in a warm place while the griddle is heating, then bake. RICE GRIDDLE CAKES Rice griddle cakes may be prepared as follows : Wash one-half cup of rice in plenty of water and then place in a saucepan and add three cupfuls of water. Cook until the water is absorbed and the rice is soft. Let cool. Now place in a crock Two and one-half cupfuls Two tablespoonfuls sugar water, 80 degrees Fah- One-half yeast cake renheit Stir until dissolved and then add The prepared rice One-quarter teaspoonful Three cupfuls white flour baking soda 26 MODERN COOKING Beat to mix and then cover and set aside to rise over- night. In the morning add sufficient lukewarm water to make a pouring batter, adding two tablespoonfuls of syrup and one teaspoonful of salt. Beat very hard and then set in a warm place while the griddle is heating. The use of a small amount of baking soda as given in above recipes is for the purpose of neutralizing the slightly acid flavor of the buckwheat — a flavor to which many folks object. Either of above mixes may be baked in a waffle iron instead of using the griddle. Try it some morning for the sake of variety. Use salad oil in a new sewing- machine oil can to grease waffle iron. Almost everyone loves good sweet butter on the hot cakes in the morning. At the present prices of butter the frugal housewife looks upon the fast disappearing pat of butter with alarm. Now try this and save the butter and yet give the folks the butter flavor upon their cakes ; place two tablespoonfuls of butter in a pitcher which will hold a cupful of syrup. Add the syrup and then place the pitcher in a pan of warm water and set on the stove to heat. Beat constantly until the butter melts and produces a creamy mix. Stale bread may be crumbled or soaked in cold water pressed dry and used in place of rice or cornmeal. So may oatmeal or other leftover breakfast cereals, as well as mashed potatoes, be used. Reserve about one cupful of the yeast batter to start the next batter. Use this starter in place of the yeast. Renew the yeast mix every fifth morning. A word about the griddle may not come amiss. The old-fashioned iron or soapstone may be used and will give good results. Aluminum griddles do not require greasing. BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES Try these cakes some morning when the folks are tired MODERN COOKING 27 of the usual breakfast dishes. Place in pitcher over night Two cups of huttermilli or One cup of water sour milk Two cups of bread crumbs Let stand in the kitchen in a cool placa. Do not put in the icebox. In the morning add One teaspoonful baking soda dissolved in Three tablespoonfuls of water Beat to thoroughly mix and then add Two tablespoonfuls syrup One and one-half cups Two tablespoonfuls flour shortening Two teaspoonfuls baking One teaspoonful salt powder Beat hard to mix and then bake on a hot griddle. CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES Scald one cup of cornmeal with two cups of boiling water, and then let cool. Now add One and one-half cupfuls One teaspoonful of salt water, 80 degrees Fah- One-quarter yeast cake renheit Two cupfuls flour Three tablespoonfuls of One-quarter teaspoonful syrup baking soda Beat hard and then let rise overnight; then prepare as for buckwheat cakes. Modern methods have eliminated the yeast and sub- stituted baking powder, thus making a quicker mix. To prepare buckwheat cakes with baking powder, prepare a blend of flour as follows : Two pounds of buckwheat Three ounces of baking flour powder One pound of wheat flour One-quarter ounce bolting One cupful cornmeal soda One ounce of salt 28 MODERN COOKING Sift three times to mix and then place in a dry con- tainer and use as required. HOW TO BAKE THE PANCAKE Use a frjang-pan that is perfectly flat; the iron ones are best, as they hold the heat longer and can be regulated so that the cake will not burn. PANCAKES FOR TWO Yolk of one egg One teaspoonful salt Two tahlespoonfuls sugar One teaspoonful vanilla or or syrup nutmeg One cupful milk One and one-quarter One tablespoonful cupfuls flour shortening Two level teaspoonfuls baking powder Place in a bowl. Beat with a Dover egg-beater to thor- oughly mix and then fold in the stiffly beaten white of egg. Pour the mixture into a pitcher and then place two tahlespoonfuls of shortening in a frying pan. When smoking hot pour in just sufficient batter to cover the bot- tom of the pan. When it oegins to bubble turn the cake over and bake on the other side. Lift and spread lightly with jelly or roll, or use the following mixture : Three tahlespoonfuls butter One-half cupful of XXXX sugar Cream well, and then add One tablespoon lemon juice One tablespoon boiling water Beat to blend. PLAIN PANCAKES Place in a bowl one quart of milk and then add Two eggs Four tablespoonfuls syrup One-half teaspoonful Five level teaspoonfuls nutmeg baking powder Five cupfuls sifted flour MODERN COOKING 29 Beat to mix and then bake. To insure sufficient cakes use two pans for cooking or bake on a griddle. IRISH PANCAKES One cupful mashed Two eggs potatoes One cupful milk Two cupfuls flour Four tablespoonfuls syrup One teaspoonful salt One and one-half tea- Three teaspoonfuls baking spoonfuls nutmeg powder Beat to thoroughly mix and then bake on a griddle. Spread with butter and sugar. BELGIUM PANCAKES Two cupfuls of unsweet- Two and one-half cupfuls ened thin applesauce flour One well-beaten egg Three teaspoonfuls baking Three tablespoonfuls syrup powder One tablespoon shortening One-half teaspoonful cinnamon Beat to mix and then bake in the usual manner. Serve with butter and syrup. WAFFLES Waffles are made from a thin batter and are baked in a well-heated waffle iron. Many failures to make good waffles are due to the fact that the iron is not sufficiently hot. The iron must be thoroughly cleaned after each baking. Place the iron on the range to heat, turning it several times. Try this method in greasing the iron. Purchase a large-sized sewing machine oil-can, wash well in plenty of hot water and soap, then rinse thoroughly and dry. Now fill with a good salad oil and when the iron is 30 MODERN COOKING heated, oil it on both sides. Now you are ready to bake the waffles. Reverse the iron, having the hot side on top, and pour in the batter and then bake about three minutes, reversing the iron once. When the waffles are baked remove from the iron and then oil and reverse it again, putting the side that was next to the fire on top and then pour in the batter, close and bake as before. QUICK BREADS Quick breads include griddle cakes, waffles, muffins, Sally Lunns, shortcakes and biscuits. These doughs are made light or leavened by the use of eggs, baking soda, baking powder and steam created in baking and by air beaten into the mixture. Their entire success depends upon the careful measurements of ingredients, the mixing and the baking. Using all water in place of milk or equal parts of milk and water will give splendid results. GRIDDLE CAKES Place the griddle on the range to heat slowly, while mixing the batter. Place in a bowl or a flat, wide-mouthed pitcher One cupful milk Two and one-half cups of One cupful water flour One teaspoonful salt Two tdblespoonfuls One tahlespoonful syrup shortening Four level teaspoonfuls baking powder Beat to mix to a smooth batter. This amount of bat- ter will make hotcakes for four persons. For larger amounts, multiply. One egg may be used for every two cupfuls of flour. Test the griddle by dropping a few drops of water on it ; if the water boils, the griddle is sufficiently hot to bake with. Aluminum jffiddles do not require any grease. MODERN COOKING 81 Rub with a clean cloth dipped in salt. Grease iron griddles slightly. Pour on the batter; just as soon as the cakes begin to form air bubbles slip a cake-turner under the cakes and turn them. Now, if large bubbles rise at once to the top of the cakes, the griddle is too hot and the heat should be re- duced; while, if the cake stiffens before the underside is brown the griddle is not hot enough. Never turn a griddle cake twice — ^this makes them heavy. Serve them as soon as baked, piling not more than five or six to- gether. Sour milk may be used in place of sweet milk. Discard the baking powder and use one level teaspoonful of baking soda for each cup of sour milk. One egg and two cupfuls of water may be used in place of two cupfuls of milk. WAFFLE BATTER One cup of milk Three teaspoonfuls baking One cup of water powder One egg One tablespoonful syrup One teaspoonful of salt Two tahlespoonfuls Two and one-quarter shortening cupfuls flour Beat to a smooth batter in a wide-mouthed pitcher. One-half of this amount for two people. Cold boiled rice, hominy, oatmeal and stale bread that has been soaked in cold water and then pressed dry and rubbed through a sieve may be added to the griddle cakes and wafHe batters. MUFFINS Muffins are made from a drop batter and may be baked in rings, on a griddle, in muffin pans or in custard cups. To bake the muffins in rings on a griddle upon the top 32 MODERN COOKING of the stove — grease the griddle well, and also have the rings well greased. Put the griddle on to heat when starting to mix the drop batter and keep the rings cool until ready to bake. Place in a bowl or pitcher One and one-half cupfuls Two tahlespoonfuls syrup of milk or equal parts of Two tahlespoonfuls milk and water shortening One egg Two and three-quarters One teaspoonful salt cupfuls flour Five level teaspoonfuls baking powder Beat this mixture smooth and then place the rings on a hot griddle and half fill with the drop batter. When well risen and nearly dry, turn over, using the griddle- cake turner to turn the muffins and rings. Bake on the other side. It will require about eighteen minutei to bake these muffins. Tear them apart, butter and serre them at once. To bake muffins in pans or custard cups, grease the pans or cups well and half fill with the drop batter and then bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. OATMEAL MUFFINS Put two cups of oatmeal through the food chopper into the mixing bowl and then add One and one-half cups of One-half teaspoon salt sour milk Four tahlespoonfuls syrup One teaspoonful baking Two tahlespoonfuls soda dissolved in one shortening tablespoon of cold water One cup of sifted flour Beat to mix and then pour into well-greased muffin pans and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. MODERN COOKING 38 CORN MUFFINS Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup Two level tablespoons cornmeal baking powder One and one-quarter cups Two tablespoons flour shortening One teaspoon salt Four tablespoons syrup One and one-quarter cups of water Beat to mix and bake in well-greased iron muffin pans. RICE MUFFINS Place in a mixing bowl One egg One cup of milk Two tablespoons of sugar One and one-half cups of Two tablespoons of flour shortening Four teaspoons of baking One teaspoon of salt powder One cup of cold boiled rice Beat hard to thoroughly mix and then pour in well- greased muffin pans. Bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. BATTER BREAD Place in a mixing bowl Three tablespoons One and one-half cups shortening cornmeal Pour over Two and one-half cups boiling water Now add One and one-half cups sour Two level tablespoons milk or water baking powder One cup of flour Four tablespoons syrup or One teaspoon salt sugar One egg 34 MODERN COOKING Beat to mix, pour in well-greased baking dish and bake in hot oven for forty minutes. SOUTHERN SPOON BREAD The success of making and baking this delicacy de- pends entirely upon a thorough beating of the batter and a hot oven. The southern mammy invariably uses the coarse white oatmeal, but you may use the yellow and ob- tain just as good results. Place one quart of boiling water in a saucepan and then add one teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoon fuls of shortening and one and one-half cupfuls of cornmeal. Pour the meal in slowly, and just as soon as it boils re- move from the fire and let cool. Now add Yolks of Mo eggs Two cupfuls of sour milk One cupful flour in which you have dissolved one level teaspoonful of baking soda and one-half cupful of syrup. Beat this mixture with a large spoon and now cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Pour in hot, well-greased baking dish and bake in a quick oven. To add soda to the sour milk, dissolve the soda in one tablespoonful of the milk before adding to the remainder of the milk, and then use a Dover egg-beater and beat for three minutes to thoroughly mix. LOUISIANA CORN BREAD Place in a mixing bowl One cup of cornmeal baking powder One and one-quarter cups Two tablespoons of of flour shortening One teaspoon of salt Four tablespoons of syrup Five level teaspoons of One egg One and one-half cups of milk MODERN COOKING 85 Beat hard to mix and then pour into well-greased square pans. Bake for thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. RICE BATTER CAKES Place in a bowl One cup of cold boiled rice One teaspoon of sdt One egg Two teaspoons of baking One-half cup of milk powder Three-quarters cup of flour One teaspoon of shortening One tablespoon of syrup Beat to mix and then bake on a hot griddle and serve with butter and sugar. BISCUITS Place in a mixing bowl Three and one-half cups of Three level tablespoons flour baking powder One teaspoon of salt One level tablespoonful sugar Sift to mix; then rub in three tablespoon fuls of shortening and mix to dough with One cup of milk or water Now work in a bowl to a smooth elastic dough, roll out three-quarters of an inch thick, cut, wash tops with milk and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. CURRANT BISCUITS Add one cup of currants to sweet'biscuit dough. RAISIN BISCUITS Add one cup of raisins to sweet biscuit dough. COCOANUT BISCUITS Put one cup of cocoanut through food chopper and add to sweet biscuit dough. 36 MODERN COOKING SWEET BISCUITS Three and one-quarter One-half cup sugar cups flour Three level tablespoons One teaspoon salt baking powder Sift to mix; then rub in four tablespoonfuls shorten- ing. Break egg in cup and fill cup with milk, turn in bowl and beat to mix. Use this for doughing up the sweet biscuits. Work dough in bowl until smooth, turn on lightly floured board, cut, brush tops with milk, bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. SCONES Scones are delicious hot breads that are served for breakfast in the British Isles ; they replace the American pancake and for tea replace our hot biscuits. Many varie- ties of scones are made in Scotland. Currants, citron and raisins are used in the dough, while in other parts of the United Kingdom these cakes are split, buttered and served with marmalade or gooseberry jam. DELICIOUS ENGLISH SCONES Place in a mixing bowl Four cups of sifted flour Two level tablespoons of Two tablespoons of baking sugar powder One-half teaspoon of salt Rub between the hands to thoroughly mix and then rub into the flour five level tablespoonfuls of shortening. Now beat up an egg and then add one-half of the beaten tgg to one and one- fourth cups of milk. Beat to mix. Use this to make a soft dough. Turn on a lightly floured baking board and knead for three minutes. Now divide into five pieces and mould each piece round like a saucer, and cut each way, making four wedge-shaped pieces; place on a well-greased baking sheet and brush with the remaining half of the tgg, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. MODERN COOKING 87 SCOTCH SCONES Place in a mixing bowl Five cups of flour Three level tablespoons One and one-half tea- baking powder spoons salt One-half cup of sugar Sift to mix and then rub in One-half cup of shortening And mix to a dough with One and one-fourth cups of milk Now work in One-half cup of currants. Or One-half cup of raisins One teaspoon cinnamon One-quarter cup of finely One-half teaspoon nutmeg chopped citron One-half teaspoon allspice Divide into six pieces and then roll out the size of a saucer and about three-quarters of an inch thick. Make two cuts forming a cross, dividing the dough into four wedge-shaped pieces. Brush with beaten egg and bake for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. This amount will make twenty-four scones. To serve, split and fill with jam and then pile on a wicker basket, cover with a nap- kin and serve with tea. DOUGHNUTS Take brioche dough, roll out one-half inch thick, cut with biscuit cutter, place on moulding board, cover and let rise fifteen minutes, fry golden brown in hot fat — roll in sugar and cinnamon. DOUGHNUTS WITH FRUIT CENTRE After doughnuts are cut and layed on boards to rise, make an opening in side of same and insert one spoonful 38 MODERN COOKING of jelly, pinch edges together and cover. Let rise and fry in usual manner. CRULLERS Place in bowl Five cups of sifted flour Three level tablespoons One teaspoon of salt baking powder One and one-quarter cups sugar Rub between the hands to thoroughly mix; then rub in three tablespoonfuls shortening. Then place One egg One cup of milk in a bowl ; beat to mix. Use this to form the dough, roll out one-half inch thick, cut and fry golden brown in hot fat HOW TO FRY CRULLERS OR DOUGHNUTS When ready to fry place four cups of vegetable oil in a pan. The pan should not be too large and the fat should be deep enough to allow the cruller to swim at least two and one-half inches from the bottom of the pan. GOLDEN BROWN Heat the fat and test before starting to cook by drop- ping in a small piece of the dough and starting to count 101, 102, 104 and so on until 110 is reached. The sample should now be floating on top and a light brown in color. Do not attempt to start frying before this time, as the fat will not be sufficiently hot and the crullers will soak up the grease. Drop four or five doughnuts in the hot fat at a time, turning constantly, and cook until golden brown, lift, let drain few seconds, lay on paper towelling and then roll in sugar and cinnamon. MODERN COOKING 39 SPONGE CAKE— ONE EGG Place in mixing bowl One-half cup sugar Yolk of one egg One tablespoon butter Cream well, then add Three tablespoons water One teaspoon baking Two-thirds cup of flour powder Pinch salt Beat to mix, then cut and fold in stiffly beaten white of egg; bake in well-greased and floured pan in slow oven thirty minutes. SPONGE CAKE— TWO EGGS Place in mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of sugar Yolks of two eggs Cream well and then add Four tablespoons water Two teaspoonfvls baking One cup of flour powder Pinch salt Beat to mix, then cut and fold in stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Bake in well-greased and floured cake pan in slow oven thirty-five minutes. SPONGE CAKE— THREE EGGS Place in a mixing bowl One cup of sugar Yolks of three eggs Cream until light lemon color, then add Six tablespoonfuls cold Two teaspoonfuls baking water powder One and one-quarter cups Pinch salt flow 40 MODERN COOKING Beat just enough to mix. Then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. Bake in well-greased and floured cake pan with tube in centre in moderate oven forty minutes. FRUIT CAKE Place in mixing bowl One-half cupful of brown One cup cold coffee sugar Three and one-half cupfuls One cupful of molasses sifted flour Two tablespoons of cocoa One and one-half teaspoon- One egg fuls cinnamon One and one-half level tea- One teaspoonful nutmeg spoonfuls of baking soda One cupful seeded raisins One-half cupful chopped nuts Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour in a greased and floured cake pan and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. JELLY ROLL Cover the bottom of an oblong pan with a greased and floured paper and then pour in sponge cake mixture one- quarter of an inch deep. Spread evenly and then bake for ten minutes in a hot oven. Turn on a cloth and then trim the edges. Spread with jelly and roll tightly in a cloth. Set aside to cool and then ice with water icing. A SMALL ANGEL CAKE One-half cupful sugar One-half cupful flour One-half teaspoonful cream of tartar Sift four times and then place whites of three large eggs in a bowl and beat until they will hold their shape. Now gently cut and fold in the sugar and flour. Pour into an ungreased tube pan and bake for thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven. When baked remove and turn upside down to cool. MODERN COOKING 41 ONE-EGG LOAF CAKE Place in a bowl Three-quarters cup of Two cups of sifted flour sugar Four level teaspoons of One egg baking powder Four level tablespoonfuls One level teaspoonful of of shortening flavoring Three-quarters cup of water Beat hard to mix for five minutes. Pour into pre- pared loaf-shaped pans and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. To prepare the pans, grease thoroughly and then dust well with flour, then pour in the batter. To make a raisin cake spread three-quarters cup of raisins on top of the cake when it is in the pan ready to put in the oven. The rising dough will distribute the raisins through the cake. One-half cup of currants One-half cup of finely One cup finely chopped chopped citron nuts or One-half cup of finely chopped citron may replace the raisins. Or this cake may be baked in a tube pan and then cooled and split and filled with custard or sour cream cake filling and then iced with chocolate icing. For a layer cake grease the layer cake pan, line with plain paper and then grease again. Now divide the dough into the two pans and spread the mixture higher on the sides, leaving the centre shallow. Bake in a mod- erate overi' for eighteen minutes. Put the layers together as follows : spread one layer with jelly and then sprinkle lightly with cocoanut. Now place the top layer in posi- tion and then spread the top, then cover thickly with cocoanut. Finely chopped nuts may be used instead of cocoanut. 4<2 MODERN COOKING GINGER CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One cup of molassts Three-quarttrs cup of sugar Ten tablespoonfuls of shortening Three and one-half cups of flour One level tablespoon of baking powder One cup of cold water One teaspoon of baking soda, dissolved in the water One egg One teaspoon of ginger One teaspoon of cinnamon One-half teaspoon of cloves Beat to thoroughly mix and then divide and add the fruit to one part, the cocoanut or chopped nuts to the second part and bake the other part plain. Pour into well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pans and bake in slow oven for forty minutes. MORAVIAN SPICE CAKE One and one-half cups of brown sugar Nine tablespoons of shortening One egg One cup of sour milk One teaspoon of baking soda dissolved in the milk Two teaspoons of cinnamon One teaspoon of ginger One-half teaspoon of allspice One-half teaspoon of cloves Five tablespoons of cocoa Three and one-half cups of sifted flour One level tablespoon of baking powder One-half cup of chopped nuts One-half package of seed- less raisins Beat to mix and then bake in well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pans in moderate oven for forty minutes. Ice with chocolate icing made as follows : One cup of XXXX sugar Six tablespoons cocoa One tablespoon of cornstarch MODERN COOKING 48 Yolks of two eggs One teaspoonful flavoring One cup of water or milk Sift to mix and then add just sufficient boiling water to make a mixture that will spread TWO LAYER CAKE Place in bowl One and one-half cups of sugar Cream, then add One-half cup of shortening Cream again, then add Three cups of flour Two level tablespoons baking powder Beat just enough to mix, then fold in white of two eggs, haikt in well-greased and floured deep layer-cake pans in moderate oven twenty minutes. Every variety of layer cake may be made from this foiuidation. To chocolate layer cake — ^put together with cholocate icing and cover cake with same icing. DROP CAKES Place in a mixing bowl Yolks of two eggs Cream and then add Four tablespoonfuls of shortening One and one-half cups of flour Three-quarters cup of sugar Three teaspoonfuls of ' baking powder Stiffly-beaten whites of two eggs Drop by the spoonful three inches apart on well- greased and floured baking sheet. Bake in a moderate oven. LOAF CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of sugar Yolks of four eggs 44 MODERN COOKING Cream until well blended and then add Six ounces of butter Cream again and then add Four cups of flour One teaspoon of flavoring Five teaspoons of baking One and one-quarter cups powder of milk Beat to mix and then cut and fold in the stifHy beaten whites of the four eggs. Place in a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan and bake fifty minutes in mod- erate oven. COTTAGE PUDDING Place in a mixing bowl One cup of sugar Two and one-half cups of One egg flour Six tablespoons of Five teaspoonfuls of shortening baking powder One cup of water Beat hard and thoroughly mix and then bake one-half of this mixture in well-greased custard cups for cottage pudding. To the balance of the mixture add a choice of any of the following : One-half cup cocoanut or One-half cup of currants, One-half cup of finely candied orange peel or chopped nuts lemon peel One-half cup of finely One-half cup of finely chopped raisins chopped figs, dates, or evaporated apricots Pour into well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan and bake in moderate oven for thirty minutes. Cool and ice with water icing. FONDANT ICING Place in saucepan MODERN COOKING 46 Two and one-half cups of One-quarter cup white sugar corn syrup One-half cup water Stir to dissolve sugar, bring to boil, cook until it forms soft ball when tried in cold water, or 240 degrees Fahren- heit in candy thermometer. Remove from the fire, pour on large well-greased meat platter and let cool; then begin and knead with spatula or spoon until creamy white — ^when stiff knead like dough, cover and set aside for twenty-four hours. To use, melt in double boiler, add- ing flavoring desired and just a tablespoon or two of boiling water to make a consistency that will spread. CHOCOLATE ICING Place in bowl One pound XXXX sugar One-half cup cocoa Two tablespoons corn- Sufficient boiling water to starch make mixture spread Beat until smooth, then add one tablespoon of melted butter and use. BUTTER CREAM ICING Wash salt from two ounces of butter, then beat until creamy, then add white of one egg and beat until mixture fluffs, then add One teaspoonful vanilla One-half teaspoonful al- extract mond or rose extract One pound XXXX sugar Beat it thoroughly to blend, if too thick, add one table- spoonful of boiling water, spread between layers and use for icing the cake. Cakes covered with butter cream icing may also be covered with finely chopped nuts or toasted cocoanut. To toast cocoanut, put cocoanut in pan in hot oven for few minutes, stirring frequently until it just begins to take the color. 46 MODERN COOKING SOFT GINGERBREAD One cup of molasses One-half cup of sugar Eight tablespoons of shortening Two and one-half cups of flour One teaspoon of soda dis- solved in one-half cup of water One teaspoon of ginger One-half teaspoon of cloves Two teaspoons of cinnamon Two teaspoons of baking powder Beat hard to blend and then pour into well-greased and floured pan and bake in a slow oven for thirty-five minutes. PLAIN WATER ICING Place in bowl One pound XXXX sugar Two tablespoonfuls corn- starch Beat to mix, then use. ORANGE WATER ICING Place in bowl One pound XXXX sugar Two tablespoonfuls corn- starch One teaspoonful lemon juice Sufficient hot water to spread Yolk of one egg One teaspoonful grated orange peel Sufficient hot orange juice to make a mixture which will spread. Beat hard for a few minutes to make glassy. MOLASSES CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One-hcdf cup of syrup One-half cup of brown sugar Six tablespoons of shortening One egg MODERN COOKING 4T Cream well and then add One cup of seeded raisins One-quarter teaspoonful Two and one-half cups of mace flour One-quarter teaspoonful One-half teaspoon of bak- cloves ing soda dissolved in One-half teaspoonful One-quarter cup of cold ginger water or milk Work to a smooth dough and then roll on a slightly floured board and cut. Brush the tops of the cakes with syrup and sprinkle with finely chopped nuts. Bake for eight minutes in a moderate oven. This makes about three dozen cakes. WHITE MOUNTAIN ICING Place in saucepan Two cups of sugar One-half cup of corn syrup One-half cup of water Stir to dissolve sugar ; bring to a boil, cook until mix- ture forms soft ball, then pour in fine stream upon stiffly beaten white of egg. Beat to blend and use while warm. DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE One cupful of sugar Six tablespoonfuls of shortening Cream well and then add Yolk of one egg Three teaspoonfuls of One whole egg baking powder Three-quarters cupful of One-half cupful of milk powdered cocoa Two cupfuls of flour One teaspoonful of cinnamon Beat to mix and then bake in two layers in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Now place 48 MODERN COOKING Left over white of egg One-half glassful of apple jelly in a bowl and beat with a Dover egg-beater to a heavy meringue that will hold its shape. Use this for filling. For icing use One cupful of XXXX sugar Two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch Sift sugar and starch and add sufficient boiling water to moisten, beat smooth and spread on the cake. CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE Place in a bowl One cup of sugar Yolks of two eggs Cream and then add Six tablespoons of Five level teaspoons baking shortening powder Three cups of flour Two teaspoons of vanilla One cup of milk or water Beat to mix and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Bake in two layers in prepared pans and when cool place a chocolate filling between and ice with chocolate butter cream. See chocolate filling recipe. SOFT COOKIES Place in a saucepan One cupful of molasses Six tablespoons of shortening Bring to a boil and then add One teaspoonful of ginger One-half teaspoon of One and one-half teaspoon- allspice fuls of cinnamon Stir to blend and then take from fire and let cool, now add One egg One cupful of sour milk One teaspoonful of baking soda MODERN COOKING 49 Beat with a Dover egg-beater to blend and then add sufficient flour to make a soft dough that can be handled, usually about seven cupfuls. Form into balls the size of a walnut and then flatten between the hands. Bake upon a greased and floured inverted baking pan in a moderate oven for about ten minutes. CHARLOTTE RUSSE Bake the sponge cake mixture in muffin pans and then cool. Cut slice from the top, scoop out the crumbs and then fill with whipped cream or fruit whip. CHOCOLATE BUTTER CREAM Place two ounces of butter in a bowl and beat to a cream, then add Two and one-half cups of One-half teaspoon XXXX sugar cinnamon Three-quarters cup of One teaspoon of vanilla cocoa Four tablespoonfuls of boiling coffee Beat to a smooth cream and then spread on the cake. ENGLISH SEED CAKES Three-quarters cup of Four teaspoons of baking sugar powder One egg Three-quarters cup of milk Five tablespoons of Two tablespoonfuls of shortening ' caraway seeds Two cups of flour Place in a mixing bowl and beat to mix. Pour into a well-greased pan and place the following mixture on top : Place in a mixing bowl Six tablespoons of flour spoons of caraway seeds Pour tablespoons of brown Two tablespoonfuls of sugar shortening One and one-half table- 50 MODERN COOKING Rub between the fingers until fine and crumbly. Spread over the top of the cake and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. To prepare the pan: Use a deep layer-cake pan and grease it> Then line with paper and grease again. ENGLISH ROCKS Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of Two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar cinnamon Two-thirds cup of One teaspoonful of nutmeg shortening Two and one-half cups of Two eggs flour One teaspoon of soda, dis- One and one-half cups of solved in finely chopped nuts Four tablespoons of water One and one-half cups of finely chopped raisins Mix thoroughly and drop by a teaspoon on a well- greased and floured baking sheet and bake for twelve minutes in a moderate oven. FRUIT CAKE A handsome and rich fruit cake is usually the accepted cake for weddings and anniversaries. In the days of long ago the young women of the household delighted to show their skill in the making and baking of this queen of cakes. In those days folks felt that it was an indispen- sable feature of the feast, and the reveler of to-day holds it in equal esteem as did his grandad before him. Here is an old and treasured recipe : Place one glass of spiced jam in a bowl and add One tablespoon of cocoa One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of cinnamon nutmeg Two tablespoons of vanilla extract Beat to thoroughly mix and then spread over the cake. MODERN COOKING 61 Set the cake in a deep aluminum saucepan or stone crock and put in a warm room to ripen, until just before Christ- mas, Then remove the cake from the crock and wipe with a cloth which has been wrung very dry from hot water, then ice with chocolate icing. AN INEXPENSIVE FRUIT CAKE One cup of syrup One-half cup of shortening One-half cup of brown One egg sugar Cream well and then add Three cups of flour One-quarter teaspoon of One-half cup of cocoa ginger Three level tablespoons One package of seedless of baking powder raisins One cup of black coffee One cup of seeded raisins One level tablespoon of One cup of finely chopped cinnamon peanuts One teaspoon of nutmeg One cup of finely chopped One-half teaspoon of prunes cloves Mix well and bake in well-greased and floured pan, which has been lined with a greased and floured paper. Bake in a slow oven for one hour. RUMANIAN FRUIT CAKE This is the richest cake made in Europe during the holiday season and is usually for royalty. The original recipe came to me in a form that is much too large for the ordinary family, so I have divided the proportions so that even the thrifty housewife may feel she can aflford this one extravagance. The recipe follows: 52 MODERN COOKING One cup of honey One cup of brown sugar Three-quarters cup of good shortening One teaspoon of cinnamon One teaspoon of nutmeg One-half teaspoon of ginger One-half teaspoon of cloves One-quarter teaspoon of allspice Yolks of three eggs Cream together and then add One-half pint cup of spiced One-half pint cup of any jam kind of jelly Beat again to blend and then add Six cups of sifted flour Three-quarters cup of Four tablespoons of baking strong black coffee powder Beat just enough to mix and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs and add One and one-half cups of One-half cup of finely seeded raisins chopped orange or One cup of seedless raisins lemon peel, mixed One-half cup of seeded currants One and one-half cups of finely chopped peanuts, or other nuts One cup of finely chopped citron One cup of finely chopped figs One cup of finely chopped apricots One cup of finely chopped and stoned prunes. Mix in the fruit well and then grease and flour a round pudding pan and line with three thicknesses of greased and floured paper. Pour in the cake mixture and cover the top of the cake with a well-greased paper. Now set the pan containing the cake in a large baking pan, which contains about, three cups of boiling water. Place in a slow oven and bake for two and one-half hours. Re- move and let cool and then turn from the pan and brush MODERN COOKING S3 the paper with boiling water to remove. Now to ripen or age. WHITE POUND CAKE Four ounces of butter One and one-half cups of sugar Cream until light and frothy, and then add One cupful of milk One teaspoonful of almond Three and one-half cupfuls extract of flour One-half teaspoonful of Four teaspoonfuls of mace baking powder Beat for five minutes to blend and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of five eggs. Bake in prepared pans for one hour in a moderate oven. Use the pans pre- pared the same as for the fruit cake. Golden cake may be made from this recipe, using the yolks of seven eggs. To use successfully you must use good shortening, pastry flour, granulated sugar and fresh eggs. Exact care in measuring with the proper methods of compound- ing and finally careful baking are necessary. Now for another point : do not stir the cake after its final beating. In filling the cake pan put the mixture well into the corners and leave a slight depression in the centre. This will leave the cake perfectly smooth on top. Now, if the oven is too cool when the cakes go into it the cake will rise over the top of the pans and become coarse-grained. While, on the other hand, if it is too hot it will brown quickly on the top before the cake has had a chance to rise; then when the dough does attempt to rise it will break through and crack the crust. Too much flour will also cause this. Now to break the old hoodoos about cake-baking! You may look at the cake after it is in the oven ten minutes if you will open and shut the oven door gently, and if necessary to remove the cake wait until it 34 MODERN COOKING has reached its full height and is beginning to brown. Then it may be removed carefully without danger of fall- ing. Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the cakes so that they may brown evenly. Icing the cakes greatly improves their appearance. Should the cake for any rea- son scorch, don't trim it with a knife. This spoils its appearance ; instead use a grater and remove the scorched part. Turn the cakes to cool upon a sieve or wire cake-rack. Do not attempt to ice a cake until it is cool and then coat the entire cake over with a plain water icing. A SMALL POUND CAKE Four ounces of butter One cupful of sugar Place in a warm bowl and cream until light and frothy ; now add yolks of four eggs and beat well for ten minutes, then add Three cupfuls of flour One cupful of milk Four level teaspoonfuls One teaspoonful of nutmeg baking powder Beat hard for fifteen minutes and then carefully fold in the stiffly beaten white of an egg and then pour into a prepared pan and bake for sixty minutes in slow oven. A LARGE POUND CAKE One and one-half cupfuls of sugar Eight ounces of shortening Cream together until light, and fluffy and then add Yolks of six eggs One and one-half cupfuls Five cupfuls of sifted flour of milk Three level teaspoons of One teaspoonful of tnace baking powder Beat for twenty minutes to blend and then carefully fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the six eggs. Bake in a prepared pan for eighty minutes in a moderate oven. MODERN COOKING 65 OATMEAL DROPS Place in a saucepan One cup of com syrup One-half cup of shortening One cup of chopped raisins Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes and then add One teaspoon of soda Two cups of rolled oats dissolved in One-half cup of flour Four tablespoons of cold One-half teaspoon of water nutmeg Mix and then drop by the spoonful on a greased and floured baking sheet two inches apart. Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. CHEESE CAKE Use level measurements. Place in a saucepan One cupful of milk Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch Dissolve the starch in the milk and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes. Cool and then rub one and one-half cupfuls of cottage cheese through a sieve. Add One teaspoonful of One teaspoonful of nutmeg '^ vanilla extract Two yolks of eggs Two-thirds cup of sugar Beat to cream and then fill into the oblong cheese-cake pan, which has been lined with plain pastry. Bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. SOFT CHOCOLATE COOKIES One-half cup of brown Six tablespoons of sugar shortening One-half cup of syrup One egg Cream and then add 66 MODERN COOKING One-half cup of cocoa Four cupfuls of flour One-half cup of milk One teaspoon of Two teaspoons of baking cinnamon powder Work to a dough and then roll, cut and bake in a mod- erate oven for eight minutes. Cool and cover with a damp cloth for three minutes. Store in an air-tight con- tainer. BLACK NUT CAKE One cup of brown sugar Five tablespoons of shortening Cream well and then add One-half cup of cocoa One well-beaten egg Two Clips of sifted flour One cup of milk Four level teaspoons One teaspoon of cinnamon baking powder One teaspoon vanilla One cup of finely chopped nuts Peanuts or any other variety selected will do. Beat to mix and then pour into well-greased and floured loaf- shaped pans. Bake for thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Ice with water icing. This cake is delicious. ANIMAL COOKIES One cupful of brown sugar Two teaspoonfuls of One and one-half cupfuls baking powder of flour One teaspoonful of ginger One-quarter teaspoonful of Two teaspoonfuls of baking soda cinnamon One-half teaspoon of nutmeg Mix thoroughly by sifting and then rub into the mix- ture seven tablespoons of shortening. Mix to dough with One well-beaten egg Six tablespoons of coffee Knead dough well and then roll out one-quarter inch MODERN COOKING 57 on slightly floured pastry board. Cut with animal cutters and then bake on a baking sheet in a moderate oven for ten minutes. Cool and then wash with a mixture of syrup and water and roll in confectioner's sugar. Note. — The dough must be fairly soft. If necessary, add more coffee. Syrup Wash : Three tablespoons syrupi One tablespoon boiling water Mix and use. CHOCOLATE FILLING FOR CAKES MADE FROM COCOA Place in a saucepan One cup of water Six tablespoons of One cup of syrup cornstarch One-half cup of cocoa One teaspoon of cinnamon Stir until the starch is dissolved and then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for six minutes and then add one tea- spoon of vanilla. Cool and use for chocolate filling be- tween cakes, in eclairs or cream puffs, or for chocolate pie. VEGETABLES BAKED GREEN PEPPERS Allow one large pepper for each person. Cut a slice from the top and remove the seeds and then place in cold water until needed. Now mince fine four onions and then cook until tender but not brown, in four tablespoons of shortening. Place in a bowl and then add Two ounces of bacon, Two teaspoons of salt diced and cooked to a One teaspoon paprika light brown One-half teaspoon thyme One and one-half cups of Three-quarters cup of milk fine bread crumbs One well-beaten egg 58 MODERN COOKING Mix and then fill into six large peppers. Place in a greased baking pan and add one-half cup of water. Bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. Five minutes be- fore removing from the oven place a strip of bacon over each pepper. When nicely browned, serve. EGG PLANT CROQUETTES Pare the egg plant and then cut in slices and cover with boiling water. Cook until tender and then drain well. Place in a bowl and add One medium-sized onion One well-beaten egg grated One-half cup of fine Two green peppers crumbs chopped fine Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon paprika Mould into croquettes and then dip in flour, then in beaten egg and roll in fine crumbs. Fry in hot fat, serve with cream sauce. STRING BEANS, ITALIAN STYLE Soak one cupful of dried string beans and then cook until tender or use 1 quart of green snap beans. Then add Two onions minced fine One green or red pepper minced fine When tender drain well and season with One teaspoonful of salt One teaspoonful of paprika Three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese CARROTS A LA BRABANCONNE Pare carrots cut in slices and then cook until tender. Drain and then place a layer of carrots in a b^ing dish. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and salt and paprika and then sift two tablespoons of grated cheese over each layer. Repeat this until the dish is full and then cover with one and one-half cupfuls of cream sauce. Sprinkle with MODERN COOKING 59 grated cheese and fine bread crumbs. Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. BABY LIMA BEAN CROQUETTES Baby lima beans should be soaked overnight. In the morning look over carefully and then discard all bruised and damaged beans. Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Turn into a colander and rinse under cold water and then return to the saucepan. Cover with boiling water and cook until tender, then add Two onions, minced fine One fagot of soup herbs Cool and then drain the beans well, then mash fine, pile in a dish and set in the icebox until needed. CREAMED MUSHROOMS Use both caps and stems. Peel and then parboil for three minutes and drain. Use three-quarters pound of mushrooms. Now make a cream sauce of Three cups of milk One-half cup of flour Dissolve the flour in the milk and then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for ten minutes and then add the prepared mushrooms and One onion, grated One teaspoon of paprika One-half cup of finely Three tablespoons of chopped parsley butter Two teaspoons of salt Heat to a boiling point and then simmer slowly. CORN FRITTERS One-half can of crushed One teaspoon of paprika corn One grated onion One egg One tablespoon of baking One-half cup of water powder One teaspoon of salt Two cups sifted flour 60 MODERN COOKING Beat to mix and then fry in hot fat. Drain. This amount will serve six persons. BRAISED ONIONS Parboil and then drain three cups of finely chopped onions. Now place one-half cup of shortening in a fry- ing pan and add onions. Cover closely and cook until a light golden brown. Make a border of onions around a hot platter. BAKED BEANS WITH SALT PORK Soak the beans — one pound — over night or early in the morning, and at noon place in a kettle and cover with water. Bring to a boil and drain off the water. Cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook for fifteen minutes. Drain. Now add One can of tomatoes One pound of salt pork cut One cup of chopped onions in pieces One-half cup of syrup Two tablespoons of salt One tablespoon of paprika Add sufficient water to cover beans one inch deep. Mix well and then cover the pot closely and bake in a slow oven for four hours. LIVER DUMPLINGS Parboil four ounces of livef until tender, and then put through a food chopper. Either beef, pork or lamb liver may be used. Mince three onions very fine. Place four tablespoons of fat in a frying pan and add onions and liver. Cook gently until onions are tender and then lift and turn into a mixing bowl and add One and one-half cupfuls One-half teaspoon of of dry mashed potatoes thyme Two teaspoonfuls of salt One and one-half cupfuls One teaspoonful of paprika of sifted flour One tectspoonful of baking powder MODERN COOKING 61 Mix thoroughly, and then add One egg ^ Four tablespoons of potato water Work to a smooth well-blended mass and then rub your hands with salad oil and then form this mass into balls; Cook for twenty minutes in boiling salted water. Lift with a skimmer on a napkin to drain. Serve with either onion, tomato or creamed sauce, or the dumplings may be rolled in flour, browned quickly in hot fat and served at once. SCALLOPED CORN Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of One tablespoon of butter crushed can corn One teaspoon of salt One-half cup of fine bread One-half teaspoon of crumbs paprika One tablespoon of grated Three tablespoons of flour onion One egg Two tablespoons of finely Three-quarters cup of milk minced parsley Mix well and then turn into a well-greased baking dish and bake for thirty minutes in a moderate oven. RABBITS FRICASSEE OF RABBIT Place the rabbit in a saucepan and add One quart of boiling water cloves stuck in it One large onion with two Fagot of spup herbs Bring to a boiling point and cook gently until the meat is tender. The gravy may be thickened with cornstarch. Season with pepper, salt and finely minced parsley. To make a rabbit pie place the fricassee of rabbit in a baking dish and cover with a crust. Bake for thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. 62 MODERN COOKING FRIED RABBIT Prepare and cook the rabbit as for fricassee and when the meat is tender lift to drain. Cool. Dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Use the liquid for gravy. SOUR RABBIT Cut the rabbit and then place in a china bowl and add One cupftd of chopped marjoram, onions Six cloves One bunch of potherbs Five allspice One teaspoonful of sweet Two bay leaves. Now cover, using a mixture of two parts vinegar and one part water. Set in a cool place for three days, turn- ing the rabbit over every day, then put in a casserole dish or stewing pan and cook until tender. Thicken the gravy. Serve potato dumplings with this dish, or it may be eaten cold. RABBIT PIE Clean and prepare a pair of rabbits for cooking; cut into suitable pieces. Brown quickly in hot fat; lift to a baking dish and add one quart of hot water. Two large onions, minced very fine Salt and pepper to taste Cook very slowly until tender, thicken the gravy and add one cupful of sour cream, then cover the top of the baking dish with mashed and seasoned sweet potatoes, one inch thick. Brush with syrup and dust lightly with cinnamon, and dot with bits of butter. Bake until slightly brown. CUSTARD SAUCE One cup of milk Two tablespoons of cornstarch MODERN COOKING 63 Stir and dissolve and bring to a boil, cook for three minutes and then add One-quarter teaspoon of Five tablespoons of sugar nutmeg Yolk of one egg Beat to blend and then cool. CARAMEL SAUCE One cup of brown sugar Four tablespoons of water One tablespoon of butter Place in a fr3nng pan and cook until caramelled, then add one and one-half cups of water. Bring to a boil and then add four tablespoons of cornstarch dissolved in five tablespoons of water. Stir until the mixture thickens and cook for five minutes, then add one teaspoon of vanilla and use. FRUIT SAUCE Place in a saucepan One cup of crushed fresh One cup of brown sugar fruit One cup of water Cook until the fruit is soft and then cool. Hub through a fine sieve and then add Three tablespoonfuls cornstarch dissolved in Three tablespoons of water. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. SWEETENED CREAM SAUCE Place in a saucepan Two cups of milk Four tablespoons of cornstarch Dissolve the cornstarch in cold milk and bring to a botl. Cook for five minutes and then add 64 MODERN COOKING One-half cup of sugar nutmeg One-half teaspoon of One well-beaten egg Beat to mix. VANILLA SAUCE ,Place in a saucepan One-half cup of sugar One-half cup of water One-half cup of white corn Two tablespoons of syrup cornstarch Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook three minutes. Now add One tablespoon of vanilla extract LEMON SAUCE Place in a saucepan Grated rind of one lemon Two cups of water Four tablespoons of cornstarch Dissolve the starch and then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then add One cup of sugar Juice of two lemons Beat to thoroughly mix and then serve. SABOYON SAUCE Place one-half cup of sugar in a saucepan and add the yolks of two eggs. Cream until light and fluffy and then add one teaspoon of vanilla extract and one-half teaspoon of almond extract. Heat one-half cup of milk to the boiling point and then pour over the eggs and sugar. Stir continually over a slow fire until the mixture is just below the boiling point. Remove and add stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and serve on pudding. SWEET SPICED BLACKBERRY SAUCE Place in a saucepan. One cup of well-cleaned One cup of sugar blackberries One cup of water MODERN COOKING 65 and the following spices tied in a little piece of cheese- cloth : One-half teaspoon nutmeg One teaspoon cinnamon One-quarter teaspoon allspice Cook slowly until the fruit is soft and then rub through a fine sieve and thicken with Three tablespoons of cornstarch dissolved in One-quarter cup of cold water Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes, cool and serve. CHERRY SAUCE One-half pound of stoned One-half cup of sugar cherries One cup of water Bring to a boil and then cook slowly until the cherries are soft. Now add two tablespoons of cornstarch, dis- solved in one-half cup of cold water. Bring to a boil and then cook for five minutes. Cool and use. PUDDING SAUCE One-half cup of white schino cherries, cut in syrup bits One-half cup of water One tablespoon of One small bottle of mara- cornstarch Dissolve the starch in water and add the syrup and cherries. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Serve. CHOCOLATE SAUCE One-half cup of sugar chocolate One cup of water Two level tablespoons of Seven level tablespoons of cornstarch Dissolve the starch and chocolate in the sugar and water and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes. 66 MODERN COOKING MAKING A CHOCOLATE SAUCE USING COCOA One cup of syrup Two tablespoons of One cup of water cornstarch One-half cup of cocoa One teaspoon of cinnamon Place in a saucepan and stir until the starch is dis- solved and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then cool and add one tablespoon of vanilla. Use the same as sauce made with chocolate. FRUIT CUSTARD SAUCE Place in a saucepan One and one-half cupfuls One cup of milk of cold stewed fresh Four level tablespoons of fruit cornstarch Stir to dissolve the starch and then bring to a boil, stir- ring constantly. Cook for five minutes, and add one well-beaten egg and three-quarters of a cup of sugar; beat hard and then cook for two minutes. CHOCOLATE SAUCE Place four ounces of chocolate, cut into fine pieces, in a saucepan and add one pint of water and one and one- half cups of sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and then bring to a boil, cook for ten minutes and then add Six tablespoonfuls of corn- One-half cup of water starch, dissolved in One teaspoon of cinnamon Bring to a boil and stir continually and cook for five minutes. Cool and then add one tablespoon of vanilla. Place in a fruit jar and store in a cool place. This sauce is used for puddings, pastries, cakes, ice cream, sundaes and chocolate sodas. ORANGE SAUCE Juice of two oranges cornstarch One-quarter cup of sugar Two tablespoons of water One tablespoon of Yolks of two eggs MODERN COOKING 67 Dissolve the starch in the water. Add the orange juice and Qook until thick, about five minutes. Add sugar and yolks of eggs. Remove from fire. Cool and fold in the beaten white of one egg. Use yolk of egg left over for the mousse. FRUIT WHIP Whites of two eggs One glass of apple jelly Beat, using a Dover egg-beater, until it forms into a stiff meringue. This amount will serve about ten people liberally. One-half of this recipe for ordinary family. DESSERTS BANANA FRITTERS Cut four bananas in half ; now then place in a bowl One-half cup of milk One teaspoon of sugar One-half cup of flour One teaspoon of One teaspoon baking shortening powder Pinch of salt Yolk of one egg Beat to mix and then dip banana in batter. Fry golden brown in hot fat. Serve with vanilla or fruit sauce. CRANBERRY JELLY One quart of cranberries One cupful of water Cook until the berries are soft and then put through the colander or a coarse sieve. Return to the saucepan and boil for three minutes, then add Two cupfuls of sugar Pinch of salt Stir until sugar is dissolved and then boil for ten minutes. Rinse a mould with cold water and then pour in the cranberries and let cool. 68 MODERN COOKING LEMON MARMALADE Cut one lemon into slices and then remove the seeds and put through the food chopper. Add one and one- quarter cups of water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly until the lemon rind is very soft. This usually takes about one hour. Now add one and one-half cups of sugar and stir to dissolve the sugar. Cook until thick like marmalade. Place an asbestos mat under the sauce- pan to prevent scorching. Stir frequently. Use level measurements; they conform to pounds and ounces and give satisfactory results. ORANGE JELLY Juice of three oranges Two tablespoonfuls of One-half cupful of sugar syrup from a bottle of One-half cupful of water maraschino cherries Boil the sugar and water for five minutes and then cool and add the strained orange juice and the maraschino cherry syrup. Now soak two level tablespoonfuls of gela- tine in one-half cupful of cold water for thirty minutes and then place in hot water bath to heat. Stir until dis- solved and then strain into prepared orange mixture. Now rinse custard cups in cold water and pour in the gelatine and set aside to cool and mould. To serve : Un- mould on a saucer and serve with fruit whip. COFFEE CUSTARD, PARFAIT STYLE One and one-half cupfuls One cupful of evaporated of cold coffee milk One-half cupful of cornstarch Place in a saucepan and dissolve the starch in the coffee and then add the milk. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Remove and add One cupful of sugar One teaspoonful of vanilla Yolks of two eggs MODERN COOKING 69 Beat to blend thoroughly and then partly cool and pour into stem glasses, filling nearly to the top. Set on ice to chill. While chilling place the white of two eggs and one-half glass of currant jelly in a bowl. Now use a Dover egg-beater and beat until it holds its shape. When ready to serve pile high on the coffee custards and gar- nish with maraschino cherries. GALATIN A LA MELBA Cut a slice of sponge cake. Place on a fruit saucer and pour over it three tablespoons of syrup from a jar of peaches and then place two halves of peaches on the cake and top off with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry. MINT GELATINE Shred the leaves of a bunch of mint and place in a saucepan; add one-half cup of water and cook slowly for ten minutes. Now drain and add One-half cup of sugar Three-quarters cup of vinegar Stir to thoroughly dissolve and then place one table- spoon of gelatine to soak in one-quarter cup of cold water for ten minutes and add the hot mint preparation. Strain, and add two drops of green vegetable coloring into it, and then pour into a pan to mould. Cut into blocks and serve with the meat. PASTRY Now it all rests with the cook as to whether we are go- ing to have a cut of pastry that fairly melts in your mouth or a tough doughy mass that is unfit for food. Any little housewife may turn out delicious, flaky pastry if she will but follow directions carefully. First of all, let us study for a minute just what pastry is. It is a mixture of flour, shortening and water. Each grain 70 MODERN COOKING of flour is thoroughly coated with shortening and then mixed to a dough with the water. Do I hear you say "Well I know that ?" Surely you do. But do you know the real knack of putting it together? For here is the real rub. The minute you knead or squeeze pastry that is the moment you make it tough. THE REAL SECRET Sift Three cups of flour One teaspoon of salt Three teaspoons of baking powder together twice, and then cut or rub into this two-thirds cup of shortening. If you cut it in, use your griddle- cake turner or spatula and chop it in rather coarse. Now mix to a dough with one-half cup of ice-cold water, using the cake-turner to mix the water in; just keep chopping and turning over until the mixture is formed into a ball of dough. Do not knead or pat with the hand. You cannot hurt this dough if you will just mix it as a man does when mixing mortar with a hoe. Keep working it back and forth, chopping it each time until well mixed. This amount will make the tops and the bottoms for two pies. , To roll the dough, divide it into four parts and then lift one piece on a sUghtly floured board and roll out the dough, working the rolling pin to and from you and turning the dough as often as necessary to secure the size and shape desired. Should the dough tear, or not come to the desired shape, just fold it into squares or oblongs and then roll again. Place on the tin and then trim the edges. Proceed in the same manner with the top crust, and then when ready to place on the pie, fold from corner to corner, making a bias fold and then cut quarter-inch gashes with a knife in centre to allow steam to escape. Lift and cover the MODERN COOKING 71 pie and then trim to shape. Now do not form the trim- mings into a ball, but lay them one piece upon the other in a pile and flatten them with the rolling pin. Roll and fold into shape, and roll as desired. You can re-roll pastry as often as desired by this method. Keep in the mind the fact that kneadmg or squeezing the pastry forms it into a sticky mass. This method will give you a delicious, flaky crust. You may spread two tablespoons of shortening upon the top crust and then fold and roll. Fold again and roll ; then use as desired. Sufficient pastry may be made at one time to last for two or three days. Just wrap the dough in wax-paper so that it does not dry out. Various fillings may be used. Fresh or canned fruits, custards, mince meat, etc. If you use fresh fruits place One-half cup of sugar Three level tablespoons of cornstarch in a bowl and rub between the hands to thoroughly mix then use this by sprinkling over the fruit. This will pre- vent the juice from boiling out of the pie while it is cook- ing and it will form into a jelly when cold. To use canned fruit, drain the fruit free from the liquid and then cut into thin slices. Measure the liquid and then add Four level tablespoons of cornstarch Eight tablespoons of sugar to each cupful. Dissolve the starch and sugar in the cold liquid and then bring to a boil. Cook for three minutes and then add the prepared fruit. Cool before placing in the pastry. To prevent the lower crust from becoming soggy just " before putting in the filling, brush it well with a good salad oil, or shortening, taking care that each part is covered. This will give you a tender, flaky lower crust. 72 MODERN COOKING Just before the pie is ready to put into the oven brush it well with a wash of egg and milk, using Yolk of one egg One-half cup of milk Two teaspoons of sugar Stir to dissolve the sugar and mix in the egg. Then wash the pie. This will keep a week in a cool place. The correct temperature to bake a pie is 300 to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. This means a moderate oven. Too much heat will brown the crust before the filling inside has had the time to cook. Custard pies — ^this includes those made of eggs ,milk, lemon meringues, sweet potato and pumpkin — require a slow oven — 250 degrees Fahren- heit. PASTRY FOR CUSTARD PIE The most important point in the custard pie is the crust, which will either make or mar the pie. So to begin with, the pastry should be light and delicate. To make pastry for custard pie place in a bowl Three cups of flour Three teaspoons of baking One teaspoon of salt powder Two tablespoons of sugar Sift to mix and then rub in one-half cup of good shortening, and then mix to a dough with one-half cup of ice water. When mixing the pastry to a dough, it is important that it should be cut and folded together much after the method used in cutting and folding the whites into a cake. Care at this point in making the pastry will prevent it from becoming tough. Now wrap the pastry in wax or parchment paper and place on the ice to thor- oughly chill for two hours. Now if the pastry is made either the day before or early in the morning, and then allowed to blend, it will be delightfully light and flaky. Now to prepare for the pie: This amount of pastry will be sufficient for two large pies, one custard and one MODERN COOKING 73 lemon, for variety. The trimmings can be made into little tarts, turnovers or cheese straws. Divide the pastry into two parts and then roll out one part on a lightly floured board until sufficiently large to fully cover the pie tin. Now fold carefully in half and then in quarters and lift on the pie plate and open covering the pie plate, easing on the pastry. Trim the edges and then roll out the trim- mings into a long narrow strip. Cut into strips three- quarters inch wide and then brush the edges of the pastry on the pie plate with water and add this narrow strip as a reinforcement to build up the edge. This will prevent the custard overflowing. Now brush the pastry in the bottom of the pie plate with melted shortening, taking care to thoroughly coat the entire surface with the shortening. Then pour in the prepared custard. Reserve about one tablespoon of the custard to brush the pastry around the edges. Place in a slow oven and bake until the custard is firm in the centre. To test if custard is baked, gently insert a silver knife into the custard, taking care that the knife does not pierce the crust. Brushing the pastry with the shortening before pour- ing in the custard prevents the moisture from soaking into the crust. TO MAKE THE MERINGUE Beat the whites of two eggs in a bowl, which is free from grease, until stiff, and then cut and fold into the stiffly beaten whites of the two eggs One-half cup of pulverized Three tablespoons of sugar cornstarch Sift the sugar and cornstarch to thoroughly mix and then carefully cut and fold into the whites of eggs. On just how careful you are in cutting and folding this mixture will determine the success of your meringues. 74 MODERN COOKING After the whites are beaten stiff they are full of little air bubbles, which if stirred break down and become watery and then the entire mixture becomes flat and tough. To prevent this, sprinkle the prepared sugar over the stiffly beaten white of egg and then with a spoon cut down through the centre and fold over; turn the bowl half- way around, then cut and fold again. Repeat this until sufficiently mixed, then place on the hot pie, sprinkle with granulated sugar and place in the oven to brown. Open the oven door and let stand for a few minutes, then remove to a place free from drafts where it will cool slowly, so as to prevent a sudden shrinking of the meringue, due to a sudden chill. To make cocoanut pie, add one-half cup of cocoanut to the custard pie just before putting in the oven. PEACH CUSTARD PIE Crush a sufficient number of pared peaches to measure one cup. Place in a mixing bowl and add One-half cup of sugar Now place in a saucepan Three-quarters cup of milk Two tablespoons of cornstarch Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil. Cook for two minutes and then pour very slowly, while beating hard to blend, on the peaches and sugar that are blending in the mixing bowl. Add Yolks af two eggs One-quarter teaspoon of cinnamon Beat again and then pour into prepared pie plate lined with pastry and bake in a slow oven. Use whites of eggs for meringue. MODERN COOKING 75 CUSTARD PIE Now to prepare the filling for the custard pie, place in a mixing bowl One-half cup of sugar Two whole eggs One and one-quarter cups One-quarter teaspoon of of milk nutmeg Yolk of one egg Beat with an egg-beater to thoroughly mix and then pour into the prepared pastry lined pie tin. Use white of egg for meringue. LEMON CUSTARD PIE Place in a saucepan One cup of sugar water One and one-half cups of One-half cup of cornstarch Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil, and cook for five minutes. Now add Rind of one-quarter lemon. Juice of two lemons grated Yolks of two eggs Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into pie plate prepared as for custard pie. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes and then cover with meringue made of whites of eggs. NORTH CAROLINA PEACH CUSTARD PIE Prepare the pastry and line a pie plate with it, then rub with shortening as directed in the custard pie. Now cover the bottom thickly with sliced peaches and then pre- pare a custard as follows : Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of One whole egg sugar One-quarter teaspoon of Three-quarters cup of milk cinnamon Yolks of two eggs Beat to thoroughly mix and just before pouring the 76 MODERN COOKING custard over the peaches dust them well with sifted flour. Pour on the custard and bake in a slow oven until firm. Use whites of eggs for meringue. Raspberries and plums may be used in place of the peaches for variety. When making these pies, always use the regulation custard pie tins, the ones with the straight sides. APPLE CUSTARD PIE Line a pie tin with plain pastry. Now place one and one-half cups of thick apple sauce in a sauce pan and add One cup of sugar One-half cup of cold water One-third cup of cornstarch Dissolve starch in water. Place on the fire and bring to a boil and then cook slowly for five minutes. Cool and then add One-half teaspoon of nutmeg One well-beaten egg. Pour into prepared tins and bake for twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. SHORTCAKE The shortcake is typical of Scotland. It is a mixture of flour, sugar and shortening worked to a paste and then rolled one-half inch thick and then decorated in various ways. The thrifty Scotsman, after leaving the mother country and settling in the new America, felt that the use of much shortening was too expensive, and so his thrifty housewife, who was willing and even anxious to be a partner to him, cooperated by cutting down on the amount of shortening and still turn out a rich palatable cake. This is how she does it: Place Two cups of flour Two level tablespoons of One-half teaspoon of salt sugar Two level tablespoons of baking powder MODERN COOKING ^ 77 in a bowl and sift three times. Now rub in six table- spoons of shortening and then add seven tablespoons of water and work to a smooth elastic dough. Turn on a prepared pastry board and mould into shape to fit the pie tin with the hands. Wash the top of the dough with milk and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Remove, cool and cut into wedge sections like pie and serve with cheese or fruit. PEACH SHORTCAKE Yolk of one egg One-lialf cup of sugar Cream well and then add Three tablespoons of One cup of flour shortening Two teaspoonfuls of Four tablespoons of water baking powder One-half teaspoon of vanilla Beat to thoroughly mix and then bake in well-greased deep layer-cake pan in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Cook and then split and fill with well-drained canned crushed peaches. Place together. Now place white of egg and one-half glass of apple jelly in a bowl ; beat with Dover egg-beater until the mixture forms into a stiff meringue. BANANA SHORTCAKE One egg Four tablespoons of One-half cup of sugar shortening Place in a mixing bowl and then cream well, then add One and one-quarter cups One level teaspoon of of sifted, flour vanilla extract Three level teaspoons of One-half cup of water baking powder Beat to mix and pour into well-greased and floured ob- long baking pans. Now spread the top of the cake with 78 MODERN COOKING three bananas sliced very thin. Place in a moderate oven and bake for thirty-five minutes. Use the white of egg and half glass of apple jelly for a meringue. OLD VIRGINIA SHORTCAKE Sift the flour and then fill a quart measure, using a tablespoon to lift the flour. Care should be taken not to shake or pack the flour down, as the quart of flour should weigh just one pound. Place in a bowl and add Three level tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of baking powder sugar One teaspoon of salt Sift again to mix and then rub in one-half cup of shortening. Place one and one-half cups of buttermilk in a pitcher and add one teaspoon of baking soda. Stir to thoroughly dissolve the soda and then use this to mix the flour to a dough. Knead well in the bowl with a spoon and then turn on a slightly floured board and roll or pat out one inch thick. Cut with a large biscuit cutter and brush the top with shortening and bake in a hot oven for eighteen minutes. APRICOT SHORTCAKE Four tablespoons of Yolk of one egg shortening One-half cup of sugar Cream until light and frothy, and then add Four tablespoons of water Two level teaspoons of One cup of flour baking powder Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into well-greased layer cake pan. Bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Split and fill with cooked apricots and then place in a bowl White of one egg, left over One-half glass of jelly Beat to thoroughly mix with the Dover egg-beater until MODERN COOKING 79 it forms a stiflf meringue. Pile on top of cake and garnish with single piece of apricot. HUCKLEBERRY SHORTCAKE Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of Two cups of flour sugar Four teaspoons of baking One egg powder Four tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of shortening water Beat and mix and then pour into well-greased oblong pan and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Cool and then split, and fill with the prepared berries and serve with custard sauce. To prepare the huckleberries for the shortcake, place in a saucepan Two cups of stewed One-half cup of cornstarch huckleberries One cup of brown sugar Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Add one-half teaspoon of nutmeg and then cool and use for the filling. LEMON DUMPLINGS Place in a bowl : One tablespoon of baking Juice of one lemon poTixier Tzvo eggs One cup of flour Grated rind of one-half One and one-half cups of lemon fine bread crumbs One and one-half cups of One cup of chopped suet milk One cup of brown sugar Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into well-greased mould and boil for one and one-quarter hours. Serve with lemon sauce. 80 MODERN COOKING PEACH CAKE Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of Two cups of flour sugar Four level tablespoons of One egg baking powder Four tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of shortening water Beat just enough to mix and then pour into a deep well-greased and floured layer cake pan. Cover the top thickly with sliced peaches and then place in a small bowl Six tablespoons of flour Two tablespoons of Four tablespoons of sugar shortening One teaspoon of cinnamon Rub between the tips of the fingers until crumbly and then spread on the top of the peaches and bake in a mod- erate oven for thirty minutes. PEACH DUMPLINGS Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of flour One teaspoon baking One teaspoon of salt powder One tablespoon sugar Sift to mix and then rub in one-half cup of shortening; then mix to a dough with one-fourth cup of ice-cold water. Set on ice for one hour, then roll out one-eighth inch thick and cut into four-inch squares. Fill with pared and stoned peaches, placing two tablespoons of brown sugar and one-half teaspoon of nutmeg in each dumpling. Brush the edges with water and then fold the pastry to- gether. Place on a well-greased baking sheet and add one-half cup of water to the pan and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. MODERN COOKING 81 APPLE CAKE Place in a bowl Two cups of flour and then add One-half teaspoon of salt One and one-half tea- Three teaspoons of baking spoons of nutmeg powder Sift twice to blend and then rub in five tablespoons of shortening. Break an egg into a cup and then fill cup to the two-thirds mark with milk, beat to blend the egg and milk and then mix into the dough. Roll out one- half inch thick and then line an oblong baking sheet. Pare and cut the apples into quarters and then into thin slices. Place one cup of sugar and one-half cup of water in a saucepan and add the apples, a few at a time, and cook for a few minutes. Lift and lay on the pre- pared dough. Place in a moderate oven to bake for thirty-five minutes. After the cake is in the oven for eighteen minutes baste frequently with syrup in which the apples were cooked. Ten minutes before removing from the oven sprinkle thickly with brown sugar and cinnamon. DUMPLINGS FOR STEW Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of flour and then add One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of Two teaspoons of baking pepper powder One teaspoon of grated onion Add two-thirds cup of water and mix to a dough. Drop by the spoonful into the stew and cover closely and 82 MODERN COOKING boil for twelve minutes. If you open the lid of the sauce- pan while the dumplings are cooking they will be heavy. FRUIT CUP CUSTARDS Place six nice berries in each custard cup and then place in a mixing bowl Two cups of milk One-half teaspoon of Six tablespoons of sugar nutmeg Three eggs Beat thoroughly to mix and then pour over the berries in the cups. Place in a baking pan containing warm water and bake in a slow oven until firm in the centre. CREAM TAPIOCA PUDDING Wash two-thirds cup of tapioca in four or five waters and then place in a saucepan and add one and one-half cups of water. Cook until the tapioca begins to soften, then add one and one-half cups of milk. Cook until soft and then add One well-beaten egg One-half cup of sugar One-half teaspoon nutmeg Mix well and cook for a few minutes longer. Remove from the fire and serve ice cold with fruit whip. MACARONI NEAPOLITAN Cook one-half package of macaroni in boiling water for fifteen minutes and then turn into a colander and place under cold running water. Now mince One onion and one tomato fine and place four tablespoons of fat in a frying pan. When hot, add the onion and tomato, cook until soft and then add the macaroni. Toss gently until hot and then cover it closely to prevent drying out. If too dry, add a couple of tablespoons of boiling water. Season with pepper, salt and one-half cup catsup. MODERN COOKING 83 MACARONI CUTLETS Cook one-quarter pound of macaroni in boiling water for twenty minutes and then drain. Cool and then chop fine. Place in a bowl and add One-half cup of grated One tablespoon of finely cheese minced parsley Two tablespoons of grated Two teaspoons of salt onion One teaspoon of paprika One well-beaten egg Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes. Roll in flour and then dip in beaten egg. Roll in fine crumbs and fry in hot fat. Place in a hot oven for ten minutes to finish cooking. POLENTA A LA NAPLES Place in a saucepan Two and one-half cups of One and one-half tea- boiling water spoons of salt Now pour in very slowly Three-quarters cup of yellow cornmeal Stir to prevent lumping and cook until very thick. Add Three-quarters cup of One green pepper, chopped cheese, cut into fine fine pieces One leek, chopped fine One onion, chopped fine One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then pour into a large bowl to cool. Form into sausages and then roll in flour and brown in hot cooking oil. Serve with tomato sauce. Wheat cereal may be used to replace the cornmeal. NOODLES FRIED NOODLES Cook noodles in boiling water and then drain. Now mince fine Three onions Two red peppers Two leeks 84, MODERN COOKING Place four tablespoons of cooking oil in a frying pan and when hot add the vegetables. Cook slowly until soft and then add the noodles. Toss constantly until a light brown and then pile in the centre of a large platter. Lay a goulash around for a border. Pour the gravy over all and then garnish with two tablespoons of grated cheese and serve. BOILED HOMINY— CHEESE SAUCE Soak large hominy over night and then in the morning wash and cook in plenty of boiling water until tender. Drain well and place in a baking dish and cover with cheese sauce, made as follows : Place one and one-half cups of milk in a saucepan and add two tablespoons of grated onion and four level table- spoons of cornstarch. Dissolve the starch in the milk and bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then add Two tablespoons of Two ounces of cheese chopped parsley One teaspoon of IVorces- Two teaspoons of salt tershire sauce One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then heat until the cheese melts. Serve as vegetable. MACARONI AND CHEESE Cook one package of macaroni in a large kettle of boil- ing water for twenty minutes and then drain and pour over the macaroni a pan of cold water. Drain again. Now return to the kettle and add One-half can of tomatoes cheese, cut in small pieces Two teaspoons of salt Eight tablespoons of flour One and one-half tea- dissolved in spoons of paprika One-half cup of water One-fourth pound of Four onions, chopped fine Brinjg to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. MODERN COOKING 85 TO MAKE NOODLES Break into a mixing bowl one egg and then add Three tablespoons of water One-half teaspoon of salt Pinch of pepper Beat to mix and then add sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Knead for five minutes and then cover and let stand for ten minutes. Nowr roll out on a floured pastry board until thin as paper. Roll as for jelly and then cut into thin strips with a sharp knife. Spread out to dry for one-half hour. GNOCCHI DI LEMOLINA Place one cup of water and one cup of milk in a sauce- pan and bring to a boil. Add slowly seven tablespoons wheat cereal. Cook for ten minutes and stir constantly. Now add One well-beaten egg One-half teaspoon of salt Beat well to mix and then pour into loaf-shaped pan to mould. When firm turn out on the moulding board and cut into blocks. Place in a well-greased baking dish ; sprinkle with grated cheese and dot tiny bits of butter. Bake in a hot oven until the cheese forms a light brown crust. Serve with tomato sauce. MACARONI SOUFFLE Cook one-fourth pound of macaroni and then cool and chop fine. Place in a bowl and add One onion, chopped fine Yolks of two eggs One red pepper, chopped Two cups of cream sauce fine One and one-half teaspoon Four bunches parsley, of salt chopped fine One teaspoon of paprika Beat to mix and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into a greased baking dish and 86 MODERN COOKING bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Serve at once. RICE Rice is extensively cultivated in the Orient and sup- plies the principal food to nearly one-half the popula- tion of the entire world. There is every reason why rice should be a daily article of diet in planning the menu. It is more nutritious than the potato and it digests more readily. When properly cooked and served it is an ideal starchy food. Unpolished rice contains all the nutritions of the grains, which is approximately 6 per cent, fat, 8 per cent, protein, 79 per cent, carbohydrates. The polished variety contains an average of 88 per cent, nutrition. Polished rice has been robbed of its vital life-giving elements. Rice is graded for size and condition and then prepared for the trade. It is known as fancy head rice, choice, prime, good, medium, common and screenings. Patna rice, the small slender, well-rounded grain, is in great demand in the East, with the Japan, Siam, Java, Ran- goon, and Passein varieties closely following. In this country the Carolina, Japan and Honduras are popularly in demand. The Carolina rice is a large sweet-flavored grain of good color and appearance. Japanese rice is a thick- bodied, soft-grained variety. Honduras variety is the slender, well-shaped grain. The preparation of rice for the markets involves, first, the threshing, and second, the milling, which removes the husks, and, third, the polishing to produce the pearly white gloss which so many folks think is very desirable. Polished rice has been robbed of nearly all its fat and mineral contents, and thus its food value is lowered and it is deprived of its flavor. MODERN COOKING 87 The rice dishes, as prepared in the Oriental countries, are made from fancy unpolished head rice and they form some of the main dishes. The Oriental first washes his rice in several waters, rubbing it vigorously between the hands. This thor- oughly cleanses it. Now, to follow this method, have a saucepan containing boiling water and then add the rice slowly, so that the water continually boils. Cook until tender and then remove the lid from the saucepan and cover the rice with a cloth to absorb the moisture. Set in a warm place for five minutes. This will give the saucepan containing it a mass of delicious, fluffy rice, each grain distinct and separate. Now, if you carefully measure both your rice and then the water, it will not be necessary for you to drain off the excess water and thus lose the valuable mineral and fat content. HOW TO COOK RICE AMERICAN STYLE Place in a double boiler two and one-half cups of boil- ing water and then add one teaspoon of salt. Now add slowly one-half cup of well-washed, unpolished rice. Cover and cook until the rice is tender and the water ab- sorbed. Remove the lid and then cover the rice closely with a clean napkin and cook for five minutes. This will fluff each grain of rice. It is now ready to serve, either as a vegetable to re- place the potato or prepared into many delectable dishes that our Oriental neighbors relish so keenly. JAPANESE RICE Wash and chop fine two medium-sized leeks and then cook tender in one-half cup of \yater. Drain. Now add Two cups of cooked rice One teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of soy Mix thoroughly and then dish on a hot baking dish. 88 MODERN COOKING Cover with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and garnish with slices of smoked salmon. Place in the oven for a few minutes to heat. Soy may be purchased at fancy grocers. INDIAN RICE Add three cups of cooked rice to One quart of chicken stock One-lialf teaspoon of One onion, grated fine paprika One and one-half tea- One-half teaspoon of curry spoons of salt powder Cook fifteen minutes, and serve very hot, garnish with finely chopped parsley. CREOLE RICE Chop one large onion and one green pepper fine, and then place in a saucepan and add One cup of canned tomatoes rubbed through a sieve One-half cup of cold boiled ham chopped fine Cook slowly for ten minutes and then add Three cups of cooked rice Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then heat until very hot and serve. Cold roast pork may be used to replace the ham. ITALIAN RICE Place three tablespoons of vegetable cooking oil in a frying pan and add four tablespoons of well-washed rice, Toss until the rice is well brown and then add One and one-half cups of Three onions, chopped fine boiling water One green pepper, chopped One cup of strained canned fine tomatoes MODERN COOKING 89 Cook until the rice is soft and then add Two teaspoons of salt One-half cup of grated One and one-half tea- cheese spoons of paprika Stir until well blended and then serve, garnished with finely chopped parsley. BELGIAN RICE BALLS Place two cups of cooked rice in a bowl and add One-half cup of currants One well-beaten egg One-half cup of sugar One teaspoon of vanilla Mix and then form into small balls, about the size of an orange. Dip into beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. Serve with crushed and sweetened fruit. SWEDISH RICE PUDDING Place in a baking dish One quart of milk One teaspoon of vanilla Six tablespoons of well- extract washed rice One-half teaspoon of salt Two-thirds cup of sugar Two tablespoons of butter, broken into tiny balls Bake in a slow oven for one hour and stir two or three times. The cultivation of rice in Louisiana is more than a hun- dred years old. Louisiana now produces a crop of this cereal larger than the entire crop of the states of Georgia and Carolina. The tourist who visits Louisiana during the time of the rice market enjoys a scene that is rarely duplicated elsewhere in the civilized world; for here are gathered the buyers from all parts of the country. The Creole of Louisiana, like the Oriental, has the true secret for making this food a palatable article of diet. The old mammy in New Orleans always tells her children 90 MODERN COOKING that, of course, le riz must be thoroughly washed and she always insists that the grains be cleansed in four waters — ^two warm and two cold — ^and then it is cooked in the same manner as the Orientals use. Never stir the rice while it is cooking ; this will make it mushy. Instead, always shake the saucepan. Never flood the rice with water while it is cooking. Always keep the fact in mind that just five times the actual meas- urements of the rice in water will be required to cook it. In this way there will be no excess water to drain off. So if you are using one-quarter cup of rice you would use one and one-quarter cups of water. Now you can- not pile up the water ; you must be accurate in measuring the rice. Boiled rice is a delicious accompaniment to chicken, lamb, turkey, shrimp, crabs and lobster — with okra and for oyster, chicken and crab gumbo; as a vegetable to replace potatoes and as a border for stews, goulashes, etc. PIMENTO SANDWICHES Use one tall or two small cans of pimentos. One cup of cottage cheese One onion Put the pimento, cheese and onion through the food- chopper and then add four tablespoons of salad dressing and use for sandwich filling. BAKED APPLES Pare and core apples and then place in muffin pans and add Two tablespoons of syrup One tablespoon of water One-quarter teaspoon of nutmeg Bake in a moderate oven until the apples are tender and then cool. To serve : Lift the apples into a small plat- ter and cover with a fruit meringue and then sprinkle with cocoanut. MODERN COOKING 91 SPICED APPLES Place six medium-sized apples in a casserole and then add One piece of stick cinna- One-half teaspoon of man, broken into pieces nutmeg Four cloves Three-quarters cup of Two allspice brown sugar Two blades of mace One-half cup of cider Bake until tender and then serve cold. CALAS The old negro women of the old French quarters in New Orleans used to make a delicious rice cake, which they carried in bowls on their heads. The bowls were covered with an immaculately clean cloth and the cakes were called bella cala — ^tout chaud of New Orleans. HOW TO MAKE THIS DELICIOUS RICE CAKE (Use Level Measurements) Wash one-half cup of rice and cook until tender in two and one-half cups of boiling water. Now cool and mash the rice well. Now dissolve one-half yeast cake in one- half cup of water 80 degrees Fahrenheit and pour into a bowl, and add One-half teaspoon of salt One-half cup of sifted Four tablespoons of sugar flour The mashed rice Beat well to mix and then cover and let rise over night. In the morning add Two well-beaten eggs Four tablespoons of flour Five tablespoons of sugar One teaspoon of nutmeg Beat well and then let rise for three-quarters of an hour in a warm room. Now place in the pan one and one-fialf cups of vegetable oil. Heat until hot enough to brown 92 MODERN COOKING a crust of bread while you count forty. Drop the rice mixture in by the spoonful and fry until golden brown. Lift to a soft paper to drain. Dish on a hot platter; cover with warm napkin. Dust with pulverized sugar and nutmeg. APPLE AND RICE CUSTARD Wash six tablespoons or two ounces of rice in several waters and then place in a saucepan and add two cupfuls of boiling water. Cook until the water is absorbed and the rice soft. Now wash, then cut into small pieces four small apples and then cover the apples with cold water and cook until soft. Rub through a fine sieve and add One-half cup of sugar One well-beaten egg One teaspoon of vanilla The cooked rice Beat to mix and then pour into the custard cups and bake for fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. SARDINE SANDWICHES Open a box of sardines and then drain free from oil. Remove the skin and bone and then mash very dry. Add Two hard-boiled eggs One green pepper One-quarter onion Chop all fine and mix to a paste with six tablespoons of salad dressing, one-half teaspoon of salt and one teaspoon of paprika. Spread between the prepared bread and then cut into two pieces. Wrap in wax-paper until needed. MY IDEAL APPLE SAUCE Wash one-quarter peck of apples and then cut in pieces and place in a saucepan and add three cups of water. Cook until soft and then rub through a fine sieve. Sweeten with One cup of sugar nntnteg One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of vanilla MODERN COOKING 93 If red apples are used, this makes a most delicious pink- looking sauce. No need to peel or core apples. APPLE CROQUETTES Wash and cut into small pieces six medium-sized apples and then place in a saucepan and add one cup of water; cook slowly until the apples are soft, and then rub through a fine sieve and add One-half cup of hrown Two and one-half cups of sugar - bread crumbs One teaspoon of nutmeg One-half cupful of finely One teaspoon of grated chopped raisins rind of lemon Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes and roll in flour, then fry until golden brown in hot fat. Serve with a custard sauce. SALMON SANDWICHES Open and drain a can of salmon and then remove the skin and bones. Place the salmon in a bowl and add One onion, grated One-half cup of salad One-quarter cup of finely dressing chopped parsley Juice of one-half lemon Mix and then prepare the bread. Place a leaf of let- tuce on the bread and then spread the prepared filling, season and place the top slice of bread in position and cut into triangles. ORANGES The first orange crop of the season usually reaches the market about the end of October. The early Floridas are first, and they are closely followed by the Arizona navels, and just before Christmas comes the bulk of Cali- fornia and Florida oranges. ORANGE SYRUP Grate very lightly the rind from one dozen oranges and 94 MODERN COOKING then place three pounds of sugar and the grated rind and the juice of oranges in a clean aluminum saucepan. Place where it will heat very slowly and then the sugar will melt. Stir frequently and do not let it boil. Cover closely and then strain into sterilized bottles. Place the bottles in a hot-water bath and process for forty minutes. Place the corks in the bottles and when cool dip in melted seal- ing wax. This recipe may be divided. To be used for making drinks, sauces, etc. ORANGE JUICE Place in a bowl Juice of twenty-five Grated rind of ten oranges oranges One pound sugar and then allow to stand for three hours. Strain and fill into sterilized bottles and process for forty minutes in a hot-water bath. Cork, and then finish like orange syrup. Note. — Soak the cork in boiling water for one hour to soften. This will permit you to use a slightly larger cork and insure a good closing. To use orange syrup: Place four tablespoons in a glass and then fill with carbonated water. To use orange juice for making orangeade, dilute with equal parts of water and juice and chill, then serve. ORANGE AND RICE CUSTARD Wash one-half cup of rice and then cook until tender in three cups of water and the water is absorbed. Now add Grated rind of one orange Three-quarters cup of Three oranges cut in tiny sugar pieces Mix thoroughly and then place in a bowl Two cups of milk Yolks of two eggs Beat to mix and then pour over the prepared rice. Mix MODERN COOKING 95 thoroughly and then pour in either individual custard cups or into a baking dish. Set in a pan of warm water and then bake for thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Cool and serve with orange whip. One glass of orange marmalade Whites of two eggs Beat with a Dover egg-beater until very stiff and then pile on rice. SPICED PRUNES Prepare one pound of prunes for cooking and then place in a casserole dish and add One cup of water Six cloves One-quarter cup of vinegar Four allspice One cup of brown sugar Two blades of mace One piece of stick One half teaspoon of cinnamon nutmeg Cook slowly until the prunes are tender and then drain the syrup and boil ten minutes before pouring over the primes. Serve cold as a condiment with meat. ORANGE DRESSING Juice of two oranges One-half cup of sugar Grated rind of one-half of Two tablespoons of an orange cornstarch One-half cup of cold water Dissolve the sugar and the starch in water and add the fruit juice and the grated rind. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes, and then remove from the fire and drop in yolk of one egg. Beat well to mix. Now beat the white very stiff, and then beat into the mixture and then chill and serve. ORANGE BETTY Pare and cut into dice three oranges. Place in a bowl and add 96 MODERN COOKING One and one-half cups of fine bread crumbs One cup of boiling water Mix, let cool, and then add One well-beaten egg One-half cup of syrup Three-quarters cup of milk One-half cup of sugar Three tablespoons of Three teaspoons of baking shortening powder Six tablespoons of flour Mix thoroughly and then pour into either individual custard cups or into a pudding mould and set in a pan of hot water. If the Betty is put in custard cups, grease them well and bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. If put into a mould, bake for one hour. ORANGE FRITTERS Pare three oranges and then with a sharp knife cut into one-half inch slices. Dip the slices in flour, then into a batter, and fry until golden brown in hot fat. THE BATTER Break one egg in a cup and then fill with milk. Place in a bowl and add One and one-half cups of One-quarter teaspoon of flour salt Two teaspoons of baking Two tablespoons of sugar powder Serve orange fritters with orange dressing or orange syrup. BAKED PRUNES Prepare one-half pound of prunes for cooking and place in a casserole dish. Add one-half of an orange cut in thin paper-like slices. Cover the dish and place in an oven to bake very slowly. Now if the prunes are soaked early in the morning and then prepared for baking and placed in the oven when the fire is slacked off for the MODERN COOKING 97 night, they will be done very nicely in the morning. This long, slow cooking is just what the prune requires. PRUNE SALAD Prepare the prunes as for stuffing and then place one- half cup of cottage cheese in a bowl and add One green pepper chopped One-half teaspoon of fine paprika One-half teaspoon of salt Blend thoroughly and then fill into the pitted prunes. Now arrange the stuffed prunes upon crisp lettuce leaves and sprinkle with lemon juice. Serve with either paprika or mayonnaise dressing. This is very nice for luncheon or supper served as a salad. CALIFORNIA PRUNE CAKE One cup of sugar Six tablespoons of shortening Cream well until light and creamy and then add Yolks of two eggs Two level tablespoons of One cup of water baking powder Two and three-quarters One level tablespoon of cups of flour mace Beat to thoroughly blend and then fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the two eggs. Now line a cake pan with greased paper and pour in a layer of the cake batter. Spread evenly. Now spread a layer of finely chopped nuts and then a layer of well-drained and cooked prunes that have been chopped fine. Cover with a layer of the cake batter and then repeat this until the pan is three- quarters full. Then dust the top of the cake lightly with sugar. Place in a moderate oven and bake for one hour. Cool, and then ice with icing made of Three-quarters cup of One tablespoon of lemon XXXX sugar juice 98 MODERN COOKING and sufficient boiling water to moisten. Then spread on the cake. PRUNE AND NUT JELLY Soak three level tablespoons of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water for one-half hour. Now stone sufficient prunes to measure one cup. Add One-half cup of finely One-half cup of sugar chopped nuts One cup of prune juice Juice of one lemon Now place the gelatine in a hot-water bath and then strain into the prune mixture. Stir until thoroughly mixed and then pour into moulds. Set aside to mould and then serve with fruit whip. PRUNE DELICACIES Wash the prunes thoroughly and then drain and turn on a cloth to dry. Remove the stones and fill the centres with a mixture of chopped nuts and ginger. Roll in granulated sugar. Prunes may be filled with fondant or fudge. PRUNE CHARLOTTE Soak three level tablespoons of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water for one-half hour. Then set in hot-water bath to melt. Strain into a bowl and add One cup of prune juice Juice of one lemon One-half cup of sugar Heat to dissolve sugar and then cool before adding to the gelatine. Now place a few spoonfuls of the prepared gelatine mixture in a mould and turn to thoroughly coat the mould. Then line the mould with cooked and stoned prunes. Pour a few spoonfuls of gelatine mixture over the prunes and set them in place before pouring in the remainder of the mixture; then set aside to mould. When ready to serve unmould on platter and serve with prune sauce. MODERN COOKING 99 PRUNE SAUCE Rub one cup of cooked and stoned prunes through a fine seive and add One cup of prune juice Juice of one lemon Six tablespoons of sugar Heat to dissolve sugar and then cool before serving. RHUBARB To cook rhubarb, cut it into inch pieces and remove the stringy peel. Cook in a glass or earthen casserole dish in the oven until it is soft, adding just enough sugar to sweeten. This will give you a splendid product. Do not use the leaves of the rhubarb. And do not cook rhubarb in tin; the mineral salt or acid content of the fruit reacts upon the metal and sets up an active poison. TO COOK RHUBARB FOR PIES Prepare the rhubarb and then sprinkle well with flour and add sugar, and cook slowly until tender. The flour will thicken the mixture. Then pour into the prepared pie plate and cover with pastry. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Pie made in this way will be far superior to that made where the rhubarb is cut and placed in the pie and then cooked. RHUBARB AND RAISIN CONSERVE Wash and peel and then cut the rhubarb into one-half inch pieces. Measure one quart of the cut pieces and place in a baking dish, adding One cup of seeded raisins Two cups of sugar Do not add water; cover and cook until the fruit is tender, usually about forty minutes. RHUBARB FRUIT SAUCE Place the whites of two eggs in a bowl and then add 100 MODERN COOKING one-half glass of jelly. Beat until very stiff and then add one cup of very thick rhubarb sauce. RHUBARB DUMPLINGS Roll the pastry out one-quarter inch thick and then cut into four-inch squares. Fill with pieces of rhubarb cut in one-half inch pieces, adding 2 tablespoons sugar. Fold the dough over, pressing it tightly, and then brush with egg-wash and bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. GINGER JELLY Soak one-half package of gelatine in one cupful of cold water for thirty minutes and then add Juice of one lemon One-half cup of sugar One orange One cup of boiling water Beat thoroughly to mix and then let cool. Just before it begins to thicken stir in one-half cup of finely chopped candied ginger. GINGER CREAM Soak one-half box of gelatine in one and one-half cups of cold milk for one-half hour. Now add one-half cup of sugar and set in a pan of warm water. Stir until gelatine is dissolved and then set aside to cool. While cooling place White of one egg One-half glass of jelly in a bowl and beat with a Dover egg-beater until light and fluffy. Add one-half cup of finely shredded candied ginger and then cooled gelatine. Whip until it begins to thicken and then pour into moulds to become firm. Note. — Do not add the gelatine mixture to the fruit whip until just before it thickens. GINGER DELICACIES The West Indians make and serve many delicious des- serts and conserves made with ginger. Either the pre- MODERN COOKING 101 pared ginger in pots may be used or the ordinary ginger root may be obtained from the grocery shops. Ask for stem ginger, as this kind is less apt to be stringy and coarse. To prepare: Soak the ginger in warm water over night and then in the morning wash, using a vegetable brush. Now scrape well and then place in fresh water enough to cover — ^and cook gently on the back of the stove until tender. Or it may be placed in the fireless cooker over night. When the root is tender, place Three cupfids of sugar water Three-qitarters cup of Juice of one lemon in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook for ten minutes and then add the ginger. Now place where it will just keep warm and simmer until the syrup is absorbed. Re- move and stand in a cool place for two days. Reheat and then drain on a sieve and roll in sugar. Pack in an air- tight tin box and the ginger will keep indefinitely. PINEAPPLE MOUSSE Drain and mince sufficient pineapple fine to measure two cups. Put through a fine sieve and then place in a bowl ; place whites of two eggs in a second bowl and add one glass of apple jelly. Beat until very stiff. Whip one cup of cream stiflf and add one-half cup of sugar. Gently combine the fruit whip, whipped cream and puree of pineapple by cutting and folding until well mixed. Pour into two-quart mould and cover with wax paper; then place on the lid, and use one pint of salt to two and one-half pints of finely crushed ice, to set the mousse to freeze. TO STUFF DATES WITH GINGER Remove the stones from the dates and then fill the centre with a piece of candied ginger. Press firmly and then roll between the hands to restore to shape of date. 102 MODERN COOKING Roll the finished date in granulated sugar. Prunes may be used to replace the dates. EGOLESS MAYONNAISE Place in soup plate Two tablespoons evapor- One-half teaspoon mustard ated milk One-half teaspoon paprika Blend by beating with fork and when smooth add slowly three-quarters cup of salad oil. Beat hard for few minutes. Now add One teaspoon sugar One teaspoon salt One teaspoon vinegar Then beat again until thoroughly mixed. COOKED SALAD DRESSING One-half cup of vinegar Three level tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of cornstarch water Dissolve the starch in the water and add the vinegar and bring to a boil. Cook for three minutes and then remove and add One egg Three-quarters teaspoon of One teaspoon of salt mustard One teaspoon of paprika One teaspoon of sugar Beat to mix and then beat in one cup of sour cream. This dressing may be used on potatoes, chicken and celery salad and with cold meat or plain lettuce. FROZEN LEMON CUSTARD Place in a saucepan One quart of milk One-half cup of cornstarch Stir until dissolved and then bring to a boil. Cook for ten minutes. Remove from the fire and add Three well-beaten eggs MODERN COOKING 103 Beat to thoroughly mix, then cool. Now grate the rind lightly from one lemon. Place in a bowl and add Juice of three lemons One and one-half cups of Juice of one orange sugar Blend well and when ready to freeze beat the lemon mixture into the custard. Add the lemon mixture very slowly. Freeze in the usual manner, using three parts of ice to one of salt. Pack, and then set aside for two hours to ripen. GINGER-ALE SALAD Soak four tablespoons of gelatine in four tablespoons of cold water for twenty minutes. Now add to the gela- tine one-half cup of boiling ginger-ale. Stir until gelatine is dissolved and then strain. Add the balance of the one- pint bottle of ginger-ale. Let cool, and then rinse off mould in ice water to thoroughly chill, and then coat the mould with the gelatine by pouring in about one-quarter cup and turning the mould until it is thoroughly coated. Now place pieces of preserved ginger in designs in the bottom of the mould, also using a few maraschino cherries. Pour a little gelatine over this and then when firm pour in sufficient gelatine to form a layer. Repeat this until the mould is filled. In warm weather pack the mould in salt and ice mixture for quick results. EGG SALAD Shred one head of lettuce very fine and then place in a bowl and add One onion One cooked carrot, diced One green pepper, chopped One cup of mayonnaise very fine Mix and then garnish with four hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices. Dust with paprika. 104 MODERN COOKING THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING One-half cup salad oil One-half medium sized Juice of one lemon onion, chopped fine Juice of one orange Two teaspoons salt One-half green pepper. One teaspoon paprika chopped fine One-half teaspoon mustard One pimento chopped fine Blend well. SALAD DRESSING To make mayonnaise dressing, break one egg in a bowl and then add Two teaspoons of vinegar One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of sugar mustard One teaspoon of paprika Beat with Dover beater to mix and then have some one pour in slowly one cup of oil while you beat the mixture with a steady motion. CUCUMBER SALAD Pare the cucumbers and then cut into thin slices and cover with two tablespoons of salt and cracked ice for one hour. Wash and then drain. Now shred fine the coarse green leaves of the lettuce. Arrange the cucumbers on the prepared lettuce and serve with sour cream dressing. FRUIT SALAD Pare and cut into dice Two apples Two oranges Three bananas Place in a bowl and add one cup of cocoanut and toss gently to mix. Now place in a nest of lettuce. Prepare fruit salad dressing of One cup of sugar Juice of one orange One cup of water Juice of one lemon Three level tablespoons of cornstarch MODERN COOKING 105 Dissolve the sugar and starch and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then remove from the fire, and add yolk of one egg. Beat hard to mix and then fold in the stifHy beaten white of one egg. Cool, and then pour over the fruit salad. Garnish with maraschino cherries. This amount of salad will serve eight persons. COLESLAW Shred a head of cabbage fine and place in salt water for one-half hour. Drain well and then add Two green peppers, One tablespoon of salt chopped fine One tablespoon of paprika One cup of mayonnaise One-quarter cup of vinegar SALMON SALAD Open a can of salmon and then drain and remove the bones and add Two green peppers, chopped fine One onion, chopped fine Mix, shred the coarse outer green leaves of the lettuce fine and then line a bowl with crisp lettuce. Place the shredded lettuce in the nest and then the prepared sal- mon. Serve with sliced hard-boiled egg and mayonnaise dressing. POACHED EGGS ON FRENCH TOAST Trim the crust from slices of bread and then dip in the following : One cup of milk One egg Beat to mix and then fry the bread until golden brown in hot fat. Poach the eggs and then lift on a napkin to drain. Then roll gently on the French toast. Cover with a cream sauce and garnish with finely shredded parsley. PICKLED EGGS Hard boil one-half dozen eggs. Cook until tender one bunch of beets. Turn into a pan of cold water and 106 MODERN COOKING then remove the skins and cut into thick slices. Place in a dish and add four large onions, cut in thin slices. Now place in a saucepan Four tablespoons of sugar paprika One teaspoon of salt One cup of vinegar One-half teaspoon of One-half cup of water Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Pour over the beets. Add the hard-boiled eggs. OMELET Place the yolks of three eggs in a bowl and add Two tablespoons of milk Two tablespoons of finely One-half cup of prepared minced parsley bread crumbs One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of pepper Mix and then cut and fold in the stifBy beaten whites of three eggs and then place four tablespoons of shorten- ing in a frying pan. When fat is smoking hot pour in the omelet and cook gently until firm, then turn either by lifting or rolling, using the cake-turner or a spatula, or it can be turned into another hot pan, containing one tablespoon of shortening, then fold and roll. How to prepare the bread: Soak stale bread in hot water to soften and then place in a cloth and squeeze very dry. DEVILED EGGS, PARISIENNE Boil one tgg hard for each person, cut in half, cutting the length of the tgg. Rub the yolks through a fine sieve into a bowl and then add to every six eggs One-half cup of finely One and one-half tea^ chopped ham spoons of salt One onion, grated One teaspoon of paprika One green pepper, chopped One-half teaspoon of fine mustard Six tablespoons of mayonnaise dressing MODERN COOKING 107 Mix and then fill back into the whites of the eggs. Mould up very high and then roll in finely grated cheese and dust with paprika. Roll in wax-paper. Set in ice- box until ready to serve. BAKED OMELET Place in a bowl Yolks of four eggs One teaspoon of salt One cup of thick cream One-half teaspoon of sauce paprika Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley Beat to mix thoroughly and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs. Pour in a baking or casserole dish and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the centre. Garnish with strips of bacon and serve with cheese sauce. To make cheese sauce: Place three tablespoons of grated cheese in a cup of cream sauce. MORAVIAN OMELET Soak one-half cup of sifted stale bread crumbs in one- half cup of milk, adding One-half teaspoon of salt onion One-quarter teaspoon of One tablespoon of finely pepper minced parsley One teaspoon of grated Three well-beaten eggs Mix thoroughly and then heat four tablespoons of shortening in a frying pan until smoking hot and then pour in the mixture. Reduce the heat and cook until set. Fold and turn and then roll. Turn on a hot platter. This amount will serve two persons. CHEESE CUTLETS Place in a saucepan One and one-half cups of Nine level tablespoons of milk flour 108 MODERN COOKING Stir to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil. Cook for two minutes and then add One-quarter pound of cheese, cut fine Stir until the cheese is melted and then remove from the fire and add One small onion grated One teaspoon of paprika One and one-half teaspoons of salt Turn on a greased platter and set to cool. Mould. It takes about four hours to become firm enough to mould into cutlets. Mould into shape and then roll in flour and dip in beaten egg, then in fine crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Garnish with watercress. COUNTRY CHEESE SANDWICHES Place one cup of country or buttermilk cheese in a bowl and add One-half cup of thick One green pepper, chopped mayonnaise very fine One onion, chopped very Two teaspoons of salt fine Two teaspoons of paprika One-half teaspoon mustard Mix thoroughly and then spread the rye bread with English butter, and then spread the filling between the slices of bread and cut into finger-width strips. CHEESE SANDWICHES Place in a bowl One-half cup of grated One teaspoon of salt cheese, and then add One teaspoon of paprika One tablespoon of grated One-half teaspoon of onion mustard Two tablespoons of finely Six tablespoons of mayon- minced green peppers naise dressing Mix thoroughly and then spread between the bread as prepared for bread and butter sandwiches. MODERN COOKING 109 A FEW POINTERS ABOUT VEGETABLES Do not oversalt vegetables. Never salt while cooking; too much salt not only toughens the delicate fibres but also neutralizes the valuable mineral content. Add just sufficient boiling water to cover and then bring to a boil. Then cook slowly until tender. Do not cover the saucepan in which the vegetables are cooking. This condenses the steam which contains the volatile oils and thus darkens the vegetable. PURlEE OF PEAS Rub one cup of cooked peas through a sieve and add One cup of milk One teaspoon of grated One-half cup of water onions One tablespoon of One teaspoon of finely cornstarch chopped parsley Dissolve the starch in the water and add the balance of the ingredients to the pea puree. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve with croutons or toast, slices of bread cut in half- inch blocks. PEA SOUFFLlE Place in a bowl One cup of thick cream sauce and then rub Four tablespoons of cooked peas through a sieve Now add Five tablespoons of bread One-half teaspoon of salt crumbs One-quarter teaspoon of One teaspoon of grated pepper onion Yolks of two eggs Beat to mix, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the two eggs. Pour into a greased baking dish and bake 110 MODERN COOKING in a moderate oven until firm in the centre. Serve at once. This dish replaces meat. PEA PUDDING Put four tablespoons of peas through a sieve and then place in a bowl and add One cup of thick cream minced parsley sauce One teaspoon of grated Four tablespoons of fine onion bread crumbs One-half teaspoon of One well-beaten egg paprika One teaspoon of finely One-half teaspoon of salt Mix to blend, then pour in well-greased custard cups. Bake until firm in the centre. Serve in cups, or turn out on a slice of toast and cover with cream of hoUandaise sauce. Note. — Set the pudding in a pan containing warm water while baking. BAKED DRIED CORN Soak one and one-half cups of corn over night and then in the morning drain and place in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Simmer slowly until tender and then drain and season with One small onion, minced One teaspoon of salt fine One-half teaspoon of white Two tablespoons of dried pepper parsley Place in a casserole dish land cover with one and a half cups of creamy sauce. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and one tablespoon of finely grated cheese. Bake for twenty minutes in the oven. This dish replaces meat for luncheon. SQUASH SQUASH AU GRATIN Wash, pare and cut the squash into pieces, discarding MODERN COOKING 111 the seeds. Steam until tender and then drain well and stand on the back of the range to dry. Now rub the pulp through a sieve. Measure and add to each cup of pulp One well-beaten egg One-half teaspoon of Two tablespoons of butter paprika One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of milk Ont tablespoon of finely minced parsley Pour into well-greased baking dish and cover with fine bread crumbs and two tablespoons of grated cheese. Bake in a slow oven for twenty minutes. SQUASH CAKES Wash and cut the squash into pieces and then cook until tender in boiling water, then drain and rub pulp through sieve. Now measure and place in a bowl One cup of prepared Two tablespoons of baking squash powder One well-beaten egg One-half teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of One-half teaspoon of shortening paprika One-half cup of milk One tablespoon of minced One and one-half cups of parsley flour Beat to mix and then bake as if for griddle cakes on a hot griddle. Serve with maple syrup. SQUASH SOUFFLE One cup of prepared One tablespoon of melted squash pulp butter One tablespoon of grated Two teaspoons of salt onion One teaspoon of paprika Two tablespoons of finely One cup of very thick minced parsley cream sauce Yolks of two eggs 112 MODERN COOKING Beat to blend and then carefully fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into well-greased in- dividual custard cups and set in a pan of warm water. Bake slowly in a moderate oven until firm in the centre, usually about twenty minutes. Let stand about three minutes after removing from the oven and then turn on a slice of toast and cover with cheese sauce and serve. SQUASH ITALIENNE One and one-half cups of Two tablespoons of finely prepared squash pulp minced parsley One and one-half tea- Two tablespoons of finely spoons of salt minced onion One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then dice two ounces of salt pork. Brown the salt pork nicely and then drain off about one- half of the fat in the pan. Turn the squash mixture on the salt pork and heat and serve. SQUASH PIE Wash and then cut the squash into pieces and then boil until tender and drain; rub the pulp through sieve. Measure, and to each cup add One cup of sugar One cup of milk Two tablespoons of melted One-half teaspoon of butter nutmeg Two well-beaten eggs Beat well to mix and then pour in a pie tin which has been lined with plain pastry. Sprinkle one-half cup of currants over the top and bake for one-half hour in a slow oven. BAKED SQUASH Cut a slice from the top of the squash and remove the seeds and the string fibre. Now add MODERN COOKING 113 One tablespoon of melted One-half teaspoon of butter paprika One-half teaspoon of salt Cover closely with a lid and then bake in a slow oven until the pulp is tender, usually about thirty minutes. Remove the lid and scoop out the pulp with a spoon, piling it into a hot vegetable dish, and garnish with finely chopped parsley and then serve. SQUASH BISCUIT Place in a bowl Three and one-half cups of Five teaspoons of baking sifted flour powder One teaspoon of salt Sift to mix and then rub in five tablespoons of shorten- ing and mix to a dough with one cup of prepared squash pulp. Work to a dough and blend evenly, then roll out on a slightly floured board three-quarters of an inch thick. Cut and brush the tops with milk and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Squash may be used to replace potatoes when making bread. Add one cup of squash pulp to ginger-bread, or when making small cakes it will be found to be delicious when used this way. OMELET IN TOMATO CASES Select firm tomatoes and then cut a slice from the tops and with a spoon carefully remove the centres. Place the tomato in well-greased custard cups and then break in a bowl four eggs ; then add Four tablespoons of water One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of salt pepper Beat to mix and then fill into the prepared tomato. Sprinkle one teaspoon of fine bread crumbs on top of each tomato and add 114 MODERN COOKING One teaspoon of butter Dash of paprika Set the custard cups in a baking pan and place in a hot oven and bake for twenty minutes. Turn on a slice of toast and cover with cream sauce. BAKED TOMATOES, CHELSEA Select firm tomatoes and cut a slice from the tops and scoop out the centres with a spoon. Now grease custard cups and place the tomatoes in the cups. Now shred very fine one ounce of dried beef. Divide into the four toma- toes. Break in a mixing bowl Two eggs Then add Three-quarters cup of milk One teaspoon of grated One-half teaspoon of salt onion One-half teaspoon of Two teaspoons of finely paprika minced parsley Beat to mix and then chop fine the pulp from the toma- toes. Place one teaspoon of this pulp in each tomato. TOMATOES, COUNTRY STYLE Select smooth, firm tomatoes cut in half and then place in a deep dish. Cover with cracked ice and serve with the following dressing: COUNTRY DRESSING Place in a bowl Three tablespoons of salad One-half teaspoon of white oil pepper One tablespoon of vinegar One-quarter teaspoon of One teaspoon of sugar mustard One teaspoon of salt Beat until creamy and then serve ice cold. TOMATO FRITTERS Select firm tomatoes and then cut in one-half inch MODERN COOKING 115 slices. Dip in the prepared batter and then fry until golden brown. Serve with cream sauce. How to prepare the batter : Place one egg in a bowl and add One cup of water One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of pepper Beat to mix and then add Two tablespoons of grated flour onion Two teaspoons of baking One and one-half cups of powder Beat to a smooth batter and then dip the tomatoes into it. Fry quickly until golden brown. SPINACH Let us first begin with the washing of the spinach. Take your cleanser and scour out the sink and then scald it with boiling water. Now place a clean cloth over the drain and turn the spinach into the sink. Use plenty of lukewarm water to wash with. This is necessary to free these crinky little leaves from the sand and grit. Now rinse in plenty of cold water to crisp it. Shake the spinach dry and place in a deep saucepan and cover and then steam gently until tender. Do not add any water. In this manner the spinach is virtually cooked in its own juices. Now turn into a chopping bowl and chop fine and then rub through a coarse sieve and it is ready for use. You must prepare and cook the spinach early in the day, so that you will have time to properly prepare it, and then, when it is wanted, simply reheat it. SPINACH A LA MODE Prepare and cook the spinach as ^ven above and then turn into a sieve and let drain, with a weight, for three hours. Now chop fine and then place one tablespoon of bacon or sausage fat in the frying pan and add 116 MODERN COOKING One small onion, minced very fine The prepared spinach Heat slowly until very hot and then season with salt and pepper. Lift to a hot platter and garnish with a slice of hard-boiled egg. SPINACH PUDDING Cook the spinach as directed in the above methods and then add One cup of creamed sauce crumbs One tablespoon of grated One and one-half tea- onion spoons of salt One cup of fine bread One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then pour into well-greased baking dish and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. SUNSHINE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES Make a cream sauce, using One and one-half cups of milk Seven tablespoons of flour Place in a saucepan and stir until dissolved, using a fork or wire whip. Bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then add One and one-half tea- Two tablespoons of grated spoons of salt onion One teaspoon of white Two well-beaten eggs pepper Mix thproughly and then serve with baked peppers. SOUFFLE OF SPINACH Cook the spinach as directed in the method and then place one cup of spinach in a bowl and add Yolks of two eggs One tablespoon of grated One cup of very thick onion cream sauce Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika MODERN COOKING 117 Mix thoroughly, and then carefully fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and then pour into well- greased baking dish. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes and serve with cheese sauce in place of meat for luncheon. SPINACH NESTS Cook spinach as for spinach a la mode and then chop fine and mould into nests. Place on a slice of bread and then break an egg into each nest and cover with two tablespoons of well-seasoned cream sauce and one tea- spoon of grated cheese. Place on a baking sheet in a moderate oven for twelve minutes and serve with cream sauce for luncheon in place of meat. SPINACH WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Cook the spinach as given in the method and then when ready to serve, reheat and make the Hollandaise sauce as follows : Five tablespoons of salad One teaspoon of grated oil onion Three tablespoons of One-half teaspoon of vinegar paprika One tablespoon of water Place in a small saucepan and bring to the boiling point, and then add the yolk of egg. Stir until thick and then add sufficient salt to taste. Pour over the spinach when ready to serve. SPINACH BALLS Prepare spinach as for spinach a la mode and then place in a bowl and add One hard-boiled egg. One and one-half tea- chopped fine spoons of salt One tablespoon of grated One-half teaspoon of onion pepper One tablespoon of salad oil 113 MODERN COOKING Mix thoroughly and then form into balls and dip in beaten egg, and then roll in fine bread crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Serve with lamb chops. PUREE OF SPINACH ALSACE Rub one-half cup of spinach through a sieve and then place in a bowl and add One cup of thick brown One half teaspoon of gravy paprika One teaspoon of grated Two tablespoons of gratec onion cheese One teaspoon of salt One well-beaten egg Five tablespoons of fine bread crumbs Mix and then pour into custard cups. Bake in a t.o;'- erate oven eighteen minutes. This will replace n.c: i or luncheon. Cream sauce may be used instead of .;r:.,}. SPINACH SALAD Prepare the spinach as for spinach a la mode and then chop fine and place in a bowl, and add One small onion, chopped One-half teaspoon of fine paprika One teaspoon of salt Mix, and then pack in demi-tasse cups to mould. Turn on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing. SPINACH A LA BOURGEOIS To one-half cup of leftover spinach add One tablespoon grated One hard-boiled egg, onion chopped fine One cup of cream sauce One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of pepper Mix and then place in a baking dish and sprinkle with MODERN COOKING 119 grated cheese. Bake in a hot oven for eighteen minutes. Serve in place of meat for luncheon. SPINACH— SCOTCH STYLE Place in a bowl One cup of prepared thick hrown gravy spinach One and one-half t ear- Three-quarters cup of spoons of salt One-half teaspoon of white pepper Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into well-greased baking dish and sprinkle two tablespoons of grated cheese and fine bread crumbs and then bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. HOW TO PREPARE A STOCK POT Select a pot that has a close-fitting lid and Iceep it for this purpose. The usual proportion is a one-gallon pot for a family of six. You will require one pound of bones to every quart of water, and One large onion One medium sized turnip One medium sized carrot One fagot of soup herbs Also one and one-Half pounds lean meat to every four quarts of water or less. Have the butcher crack the bones well and then rinse them under cold water and place in a pot, together with meat and the sea- soning. Add the required amount of cold water and bring to a boil. Cook very slowly for three and one-half hours. Strain the liquid and discard the bones and vege- tables. Set the liquid aside to cool and remove the cake of fat when it hardens. Now place the liquid in a sauce- pan and boil for twenty minutes. It may now be used for stock, soups, broths, gravies and sauces. Cover the bones in the kettle with cold water again and add any leftover gravies, bits of meat, trimmings and bones that you may have on hand. Cook slowly on the 120 MODERN COOKING back of the range for four hours, and then strain, and to two quarts of this stock add One can of tomatoes One-half cup of diced One cupful of diced carrots turnips One-half cup of diced One-quarter teaspoon of onions powdered thyme One-half cup of barley Two tablespoons of finely One cupful of diced chopped parsley potatoes One tablespoon of dried celery leaves Cook slowly for one hour for a good vegetable soup. To give the soup body, add Three-fourths cup of flour Dissolved in One cup of cold water Cook ten minutes and then serve. BEAN SOUP Soak one pint of marrow-fat or soup beans over night. In the morning wash and place in soup kettle with two quarts of water, bring to a boil, turn in colander, and let drain and rinse under cold water. Return to soup kettle and add Four quarts of water One cup finely chopped One fagot soup herbs onions One teaspoon thyme One carrot cut in tiny dice Cook slowly for four hours, now mince one-half pound of salt pork fine, place in .frying pan and cook slowly until nice brown; add to the bean stock, mashing beans well. Serve. Dried peas, lima beans, soy beans and lentil soup may be prepared in the same manner. MODERN COOKING 121 BOUILLON Two and one-half pounds Two onions shin beef with bone One clove One stock celery One bay leaf One carrot, sliced thin One pound veal bones Remove bone and cut meat in small pieces, brown quickly in hot pan, place in soup kettle, and add vegetables cut in tiny dice and three quarts of cold water; bring slowly to a boil and cook slowly for three and one-half hours; strain through napkin, season and clarify white of egg and crushed ^gg shell. To clarify: Set soup aside until cold, remove fat, re- turn to stock pot, and add white of egg, crushed egg shell and one-half cup of cold water beaten together, then bring slowly to a boil, cook for five minutes and then add one-half cup of water — lift from stove, set aside to settle and strain through piece of cheesecloth. MOCK TURTLE SOUP One calf's head Clean and thoroughly wash head, removing tongue and brains. Place the head in stock pot, then add Five qtiarts cold water One fagot soup herbs Two carrots, cut in dices One-half teaspoon sweet Three-quarters cup sliced marjoram onions One-half teaspoon thyme One-half cup celery leaves Bring to a boil and cook slowly until meat leaves the bones, lift head; cut part head in tiny dice, using about two cups of the meat ; do not add to the mock turtle yet. Now place in frying pan One-half cup of shortening Three-quarters cup of flour Brown flour a deep mahogany brown — ^add part of the stock to blend into thick sauce — ^bring to a boil and cook 122 MODERN COOKING slowly for five -minutes ; then strain into the stock or mock turtle soup. Now add One tablespoon salt One teaspoon white pepper Simmer few minutes, strain through cheesecloth into bowl, set aside to cool, remove fat from top ; now return stock to kettle and clarify as for bouillon; to serve re- heat, add the chopped calf's head meat as prepared, juice of one-half lemon, two slices lemon cut in tiny pieces, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. OXTAIL SOUP Have butcher cut tail in pieces; soak oxtail in warm water for one-half hour. Wash and wipe dry, now roll each joint in flour, place one-half cup of shortening in soup kettle, add the oxtails and brown well, then add one-half cup flour, browning a deep mahogany brown; now add Three quarts cold water Four onions chopped fine One bunch soup herbs One carrot cut in dice One teaspoon of thyme Cook slowly for three hours, season with pepper and salt and juice of one-half lemon. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP Place in a saucepan Three pints of chicken Four onions chopped fine stock One carrot cut in dice One cup diced apples One clove One-half teaspoon of thyme Simmer slowly for one-half hour. Now place in frying pan Four tablespoons bacon fat One-half cup of flow One-half teaspoon curry powder MODERN COOKING 123 Blend together, and then add one pint of cold water, and as soon as it is thoroughly blended turn into the soup ; stir to prevent lumping and bring quickly to a boil ; cook ten minutes; strain through cheesecloth; add juice one-half lemon and one-half cup of finely chopped chicken meat. Serve. FRENCH PEA SOUP Soak one cup of dried peas over night and then in the morning drain and place in a saucepan, adding Two quarts of water Simmer gently until tender and then pass through a sieve and add Two large onions, grated One small bay leaf I Two tablespoons of pars- One-half cup of strained ley, minced fine canned tomatoes Six whole cloves Simmer slowly for thirty minutes and then serve with toasted strips of bread. FAGOT OF SOUP HERBS Divide one leek into three parts and cut from the stem up. To this piece of leek add Four branches of thyme a strip three inches long Two branches of parsley Two branches of celery One piece of carrot, cut in One small pepper pod Tie with a string and dry in a warm place. When dry put in a glass jar to be used as needed. Many varieties of soups may be made from the plain stock with just a few minutes' work. Clear tomato soup: To one quart of stock add one cupful of canned tomatoes, rubbed through a fine sieve. Noodles, macaroni or any cooked vegetable may be added. For clear soup : Add one teaspoon of kitchen bouquet and any desired vegetables to each quart of stock. When 124 MODERN COOKING making cream soups, if you will add one cupful of pre- pared stock to each cup of milk, your soup will have a delicious flavor. Stock may be made, filled into sterilized jars and then the rubber and lid adjusted; the soup may then be processed for three hours in a hot-water bath. Remove from the bath, fasten the lids securely, and then test for leaks and store in a dry cool place. Where there is a fire kept in the kitchen, it will not add to the costs to can soups, stocks, etc., for future use. PEPPER POT Place in a saucepan Two calves' feet, cut in One hunch of soup herbs pieces One teaspoon of sweet One pound cooked honey- marjoram comb tripe, cut in small Two whole cloves blocks Two whole allspice One cup of finely chopped Four quarts of water onions Bring to a boil and cook slowly for three hours. Re- move the calves' feet, remove meat from the fat, chop meat fine and return to soup, then add three cups of finely diced potatoes and tiny dumplings made as follows : Place in a mixing bowl One cup of flour One tablespoon of finely One-half teaspoon of salt minced parsley One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of baking pepper powder One-half teaspoon of Four tablespoons of water thyme Mix to a dough and then work well to blend. Make into small balls the size of a large pea. Drop into the pepper pot and cook for fifteen minutes. Season with salt and pepper and then serve. MODERN COOKING 125 FRUIT SOUP The French, Swiss and Danish housewives serve dur- ing the summer a delicious fruit soup. In Normandy, during apple-blossom time, the petals of the fruit are picked as they fall and are used for fruit soup, blossom jelly and perfume and distilled water. HOW TO MAKE THIS SOUP You may use any fruit desired; wash to thoroughly cleanse, and to each pint of crushed fruit allow three pints of water. The fruit must be packed solidly. Place in a kettle and cook until the fruit is soft and then rub through a fine sieve. Now measure and add One-half cup of sugar Four tablespoons of cold Three tablespoons of com- water to each pint starch, dissolved in of the fruit puree. Bring to boil and cook five minutes. Remove from the fire and add yolk of one egg. Beat very hard and then fold in stiffly beaten white of egg; season slightly with nutmeg, chill and serve. Strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, huckleberries, cherries, grapes, currants, apples, peaches, pears, oranges, lemon and quinces may be used for these soups. They are delicious when served ice cold on a hot day. MEATS Use oven for baking and boiling and then cook your meats in the old-fashioned English way by direct con- tact with the flame. This means that you must first place one quart of water and one tablespoon of salt in the broiler pan of the gas range ; then place in the roast, steak or chops, upon the broiler ; turn every few minutes. The roast must be placed farther froni the flame to prevent burning. A good rule for this is to keep roasting meat four inches from the flame, steaks and chops two and one-half inches and fish three inches. 126 MODERN COOKING The placing of water in the broiler pan prevents fat from catching fire. This liquid may be allowed to cool and then the fat may be removed and clarified and used for other purposes. Baste roast with one pint of boiling water while cooking. ROASTING AND BAKING MEATS Roasting or grilling is done before open fire, the meat being turned frequently, so that all sides may be cooked alike. The meat is basted with its own fat. This method of cooking meat is used daily in Europe, but not much used in this country. When a piece of meat is large it is roasted. Meat cooked in an oven by radiated heat is frequently called in this country "roasting." It is well known and needs little description. When baking meat always use a wire rack to lift the meat from the bottom of the pan. This will insure even cooking. Use the broiling oven in the gas range for roasting, placing rack sufficiently low. Have the oven hot enough to brown the meat quickly, then reduce the heat so that it will cook evenly; turn the roast three times during this process. Allow one-half an hour after placing meat in the oven before counting time. This is necessary so that the meat may reach the required temperature to start cooking. To bake (oven roast) use same process, using regular oven. Start counting time after meat is one-half hour in oven and allow twelve minutes to the pound for very rare, fifteen minutes for rare, eighteen minutes for medium and twenty for well done. Baste the meat with the liquid in the pan every fifteen minutes. Do not add seasoning to the meat while cook- ing. It is a well-known fact that salt will cause the juices and flavoring of the meat to dissolve and therefore be- MODERN COOKING 127 come lost. Season steaks and chops just before serving. Season roasts five minutes before removing from the oven. Always make the gravy after removing the meat from the pan. Note. — Never dish meat on a cold platter. The con- tact of a cold dish with the hot meat will injure its deli- cate aroma. In many portions of France and England chops and steaks are served upon platters set over a bowl of hot water or a special fuel that can be burned in a container that holds the platter. When serving a large steak always have a cover of metal or another hot dish turned over the meat to prevent it chilling. CORRECT METHOD OF BOILING MEAT Place the meat in a saucepan of boiling water and then keep the water boiling rapidly for five minutes after the meat is added. Then place the saucepan in a position where it will cook just below the boiling point for the required length of time. Constant and rapid boiling will cause the albumen in the meat to harden; therefore, no amount of cooking afterward will soften the fibre. It will only cause the meat to fall apart without being tender. It is important to keep the saucepan closely covered. This will prevent the delicate aroma from evaporating. Braising : Meat is placed in a hot saucepan and turned quickly and frequently. It is cooked in its own juices in a closely covered saucepan. Steaming : Cooking meat by placing in steam bath or steamer. Grilling : Cooking meat over a hot fire on a grill made for the purpose. Broiling: A very hot fire is necessary for this mode of cooking meat. Only the choicest, tenderest, and most delicate cuts are suitable for cooking by this method. The strong heat instantly coagulates the albumen by sear- 128 MODERN COOKING ing it, thus retaining all its juices and flavor. That this method may be successful it is very necessary that the meat be turned every few minutes. This also insures it being cooked evenly. Pan Broiling : This is another method of cooking the fine cuts of meats when it is not possible to broil them. Broiled meat is more healthful and also less wasteful than any other form of cooked meat. TO PAN BROIL Heat an iron frying pan red hot, then place in it the meat. Turn it constantly. TIME FOR ROASTING MEAT IN GAS BROILER Beef, eighteen minutes to the pound. Lamb and mutton, twenty-one minutes to the pound. Veal, twenty-five minutes to the pound. Chicken or duck, eighteen minutes to the pound with- out filling and twenty-five minutes to the poimd with fill- ing. Fish, fifteen minutes to the pound. Au gratin dishes, meat pie and various vegetables may be cooked at the same time. PORK Pork should be sweet-smelling — ^the fat clear white and flesh good pinkish color. Loin for chops, crown roast. BOILED PORK Plunge pork in boiling water and cook, allowing twenty-five minutes to the pound. TO ROAST LOIN Wipe with damp cloth, pat in plenty of flour, place in a roasting pan, place in hot oven for thirty minutes. Now reduce heat to moderate and roast, allowing thirty minutes to the pound; baste with boiling water after meat is in oven one-half hour. MODERN COOKING 129 Fresh ham and shoulder may be roasted in same manner. SPANISH KIDNEY STEW Cut three pork kidneys in one-inch pieces, rejecting the tubes and fat, and then soak in warm water and one tablespoon of lemon juice for one hour. Drain, and then parboil and drain and blanch under cold water. Now return to saucepan and add just sufficient boiling water to cover. Cook until tender, and then add One-half cupful of chopped One cupful of tomatoes onions One-half cup of cornstarch Two red or green peppers, dissolved in chopped fine One-half cup of cold water Bring to boiling point and then add One cupful of cooked One-half teaspoon of beans paprika One and one-half tea- One-quarter teaspoon of spoons of salt thyme Heat to the boiling point and then serve. BRAISED SWEETBREADS Prepare sweetbreads as directed on Page 134 and then remove the tubes and fat and cut into slices. Place two tablespoons of butter in a saucepan and add the sweet- breads and one tablespoon of grated onion, one cup of mushrooms, toss gently until nicely browned and then lift on sqirares of toast and cover with supreme sauce. SAUSAGE CAKES One-quarter pound of pork Three-quarters cup of sausage prepared bread One-half pound of ham- Two teaspoonfuls of salt burg steak One teaspoon of paprika Four onions, minced fine Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley 130 MODERN COOKING Mix to thoroughly blend and then form into round sausages. Roll in flour and brown quickly, and then add One-half cup of boiling water One cup of canned tomatoes Bring to the boiling point and cook for five minutes. Serve, lift the sausages on fried mush. To prepare the bread : Soak stale bread in cold water until soft and then press very dry. Measure and then rub through a fine sieve to remove the lumps. All the above may be cooked in a fireless cooker or in casserole dishes. MUTTON Mutton is the dressed carcass of the full-grown sheep and is usually prime in animals from three to five years old. If any older than this it lacks flavor and is tough. The cuts of mutton and of lamb are the same, namely : The meat is divided into fore and hind quarters and then cut in the neck, shoulder, rack, breast, loin and leg. The shoulder and leg are used for roasting and may be boned and then filled and rolled. For choice rack, cut to the tenth rib as for the chops. Three ribs and the neck for stewing, meat pies, goulashes, etc. The loin for chops. The French and English have methods of cutting and cooking mutton and lamb that make these cuts delicious. CHOPS French chops : Cut two ribs from the rack. English chops : Cut two inches thick from the loin, including the kidney. TO COOK Trim the chops free from excess fat and then baste with the juice of one lemon. Place in a broiler and cook for ten minutes, turning them frequently. MODERN COOKING 131 ENGLISH DRESSING FOR LAMB OR MUTTON CHOPS One tablespoon of Worces- One teaspoon of mustard tershire sauce One-half teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of salad One-half teaspoon of oil paprika Juice of one-half lemon Blend well together and then spread lightly on both sides of the cooked chops. Serve on a hot platter with- out gravy, with spiced grape or currant jelly. ROAST MUTTON Trim to remove the excess fat and then dust with flour. Place on the rack in the baking pan. Place in a hot oven to brown for thirty minutes. Baste every ten minutes with boiling water. Cook the meat for eighteen minutes to the pound, not counting the first half hour in which the meat starts to cook. Drain off the fat before making the gravy. Mutton and lamb chops may be used for frying pur- poses. It can be blended with equal amounts of ham, bacon, pork or beef fat. Save every bit of fat and use it for making soap. This fat makes a fine soft soap for scouring and cleaning. CURRY OF MUTTON Have the butcher cut the neck of mutton into cutlets and then wipe with a damp cloth and place in a saucepan, together with Two medium-sised onions One carrot, cut in dice Gently brown the meat before adding any water. When meat is browned add Two cups of boUing water Cook until tender and then season and thicken the gravy slightly with cornstarch. Now add One-half teaspoon of curry powder 132 MODERN COOKING To serve, place a border of cooked noodles around the edge of a large platter and then lift the mutton curry in the centre and garnish with finely chopped parsley. GOULASH This is a characteristic dish of the Balkan States. It is made by cutting one-half pound of lean beef (shin) into one-inch thick blocks and three-quarters of a pound of veal cut into small pieces. Roll the meat in flour and then place in a stewing pan. Cover with boiling water and cover closely. Cook the meat until it is tender. Remove the lid and boil the liquid quickly to reduce. Now add One-half cup of thick sour grated onion cream Two tablespoons of finely One tablespoon of paprika minced parsley Three tablespoons of Two teaspoons of salt Bring to a boil and then simmer for ten minutes. Serve with fried noodles. SWEETBREAD PATTIES To make the patty shells place in a bowl two cups of flour and then add One teaspoon of salt Five teaspoons of baking powder Rub between the hands to mix and run into the pre- pared flour One-half cup of shortening Mix to a dough with a scant two-thirds cup of ice- cold water. Turn on a floured moulding board and either roll or pat out one and one-quarter inch thick. Cut as for biscuits, using a water glass to cut with. The biscuit cutter will not permit cutting with this thickness of dough. Now use small cutter and cut out the centre, leaving about one-half inch thickness at the bottom and a wall one-half inch thick around the patty shell. Place MODERN COOKING 133 on a baking sheet and bake in a hot oven for eighteen minutes. Then fill with braised sweetbreads. BRAISED OXTAILS WITH BAKED DRIED PEAS Soak one and one-half cups of dried peas over night and then in the morning parboil. Place in a baking dish, together with One-half cup of chopped One cupful of tomatoes onions Two teaspoons of salt Two green peppers, One-half teaspoon of chopped fine pepper Two prepared oxtails and sufficient water to cover. Bake in a moderate oven for three hours. To prepare the oxtails have the butcher cut the tails in two-inch pieces and then soak for two hours in lukewarm water. Wash well and parboil for fifteen minutes. CHILI OF BEEF Cut one pound of flank steak in one-inch blocks and then roll in flour and brown quickly in hot fat. Now add Six onions, chopped fine One cup of tomatoes Three red pimentos. One cup of water chopped fine Cook slowly imtil meat is tender and then season with Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika and add one cup of cooked beans. Heat to boiling point and then serve. MEAT LOAF Two cups of raw meat. One teaspoon of sweet minced fine marjoram One cup of onions, chopped One tablespoon of salt fine One teaspoon of pepper Two cups of cold cooked One-half cup of stock to oatmeal moisten One teaspoon of thyme 134 MODERN COOKING Mix thoroughly and then pack into a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Place this pan in a larger one containing water and bake in a slow oven for one hour. This dish will keep for one week in the icebox. It makes splendid sandwiches. Select cut from neck then using meat for the loaf Then cover the bones with cold water and then add Two onions One carrot One fagot of soup herbs Cook slowly for one hour. Use this liquid for a stock for making gravy. SWEETBREADS POLASKA Select medium-sized sweetbreads, place the sweetbreads in cold water to soak, adding one teaspoon of lemon juice; soak for two hours and then wash and pat dry. Remove the tubes and fatty particles and then place in a saucepan. Cover with boiling water and cook for twenty minutes. Blanch under cold running water and let cool. Pat dry and then place in icebox until needed. Prepare one pint of cream sauce as follows : Place one pint of milk in a saucepan and add six tablespoons of flour. Stir with a wire spoon or fork to dissolve the flour, then place on the stove and bring to a boil. Now add One level tablespoon of One teaspoon of grated salt rind of lemon One level teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of paprika mustard Two tablespoons of lemon One well-beaten egg juice Beat to thoroughly mix; then add One cup of cooked peas The prepared sweetbreads. One tablespoon of grated cut into three-quarter onion inch pieces MODERN COOKING 136 Mix thoroughly and then fill into the patty shells. Sprinkle the top with fine bread crumbs ; place and bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Now while the patties are heating, peel and wash one-quarter pound of mushrooms, using the stem and button. Parboil and then drain. Pan for four minutes in a little butter and then serve as a garnish with the patties. CREOLE BEEF Have the butcher cut two pounds of shin beef, leaving the bone in. Wipe it with a damp cloth and then pat into the meat one-half cupful of flour. Melt five tablespoons of shortening in a deep saucepan, and when hot put in the meat. Brown quickly and then turn on the other side. When both sides are browned add Two cups of boiling water One cup of canned One cup of chopped onions tomatoes Two carrots cut in dice Bring quickly to a boil and cover closely and cook very slowly until tender, usually about two hours. Season and then it is ready to serve ; or the pot may be placed in a slow oven for three hours. SHELLFISH Shellfish includes crabs, both hard and soft shell, lob- sters, shrimp, terrapin, green turtle, snapper, etc. All shellfish must be actively alive before cooking. This is the essential point and will prevent ptomaine poi- soning. Never cook shellfish if they are dead. Remem- ber, they are deadly. Place a boiler of water on the stove and bring to a boil. Add one tablespoon Oif red pepper and one cup of vinegar. To cook lobster, ?hrimp, crab, etc., cover and cook rapidly for twenty-five minutes for the medium size, fifteen minutes for the small and thirty minutes for the large ones. 136 MODERN COOKING When cooked, remove from the water and place under cold water. Let cool. Place on the ice until needed. To clean crabs break off the claws and then save the two large ones. Then remove the apron pieces of the shell, like a plate under the eyes. Break the shell apart and remove the spongy lingers, sandbag and eggs, if any. Wash well. You now have white oval-shaped pieces of crab meat, that must be picked from its cells. Split with a silver knife and use an oyster fork to pick out the meat. This can be used for au gratin, a la King, ravigotte, deviled crabs, salads, croquettes and crab cakes. CRAB MEAT The crab must be actively alive before cooking. To cook place a large boiler of water on the fire and bring to a boil ; add to it One-half cup of vinegar One teaspoon of cayenne pepper Then add the crabs and cover closely and boil for twenty minutes. Count time when water boils after add- ing crabs. FRIED CRAB MEAT Pick the meat from the cooked crabs and mince fine two ounces of bacon. Place the bacon and one and one- half cups of crab meat and two tablespoons of grated onion in a hot skillet and cook until nicely browned. Serve on toast and pour melted butter over the prepared crab meat. CRAB MEAT SERVED IN CREAM Place in a saucepan One and one-half cups of Six level tablespoons of milk flour Stir to blend. Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Now add MODERN COOKING 137 One teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of paprika Grated rind of one-quarter lemon Juice of one lemon One and one-half cups of crab meat One green pepper minced fine One onion, grated Two tablespoons of butter Toss gently, cooking until well heated. Serve in in- dividual ramekins or small custard cups, dusting with paprika. FRIED CRABS Clean the cooked crabs and then cut a thin slice from the shell that contains the meat. Dip the meaty part in a salad oil and fry until golden brown in hot skillet. RAVIGOTTE SAUCE One cup mayonnaise One-half cup finely chopped young green onions One-quarter cup finely chopped parsley Beat to mix. CRAB MEAT BALLS Mince fine Two ounces of bacon tomatoes, pressed very Two green peppers dry One-half cup of canned Two tomatoes Three onions ' Brown the bacon quickly and then add the finely chopped peppers, tomatoes and onions. Cook gently until soft and dry, then add One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of salt crab meat One teaspoon of paprika One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce One-quarter cup finely chopped green peppers One-quarter teaspoon mustard One teaspoon paprika One teaspoon salt 138 MODERN COOKING Mix well and then form into balls the size of a fishcake and roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Serve with tartare sauce. CRAB RAVIGOTTE Serve crab meat in nests of crisp lettuce with ravi- gotte sauce. CRAB MEAT A LA KING Place in saucepan or chafing dish One and one-half cups of thick cream sauce Add Three-quarters cup of One teaspoon salt mushrooms, peeled and One teaspoon paprika cut into tiny pieces and Juice of one-half lemon parboiled Two cups or one-half Two pimentos chopped fine pound of crab meat One well-beaten egg peeled and cut into tiny pieces and parboiled. Toss with fork to mix ; heat to boiling point and serve with toast. TRIPE AND OYSTERS Cut one-half pound of cooked tripe into small dice and place in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Cook for ten minutes and then drain and add One and one-half cups of Two tablespoons of finely thin cream, sauce minced parsley One small onion, grated Twenty-five stewing oysters . Bring to a boil and cook for eight minutes, then season with Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika GRILLED OYSTERS ON HALF SHELL Allow four large oysters for each service. Have the MODERN COOKING 139 oysters opened on the deep shell and remove the oysters, wash free from bits of shell and then roll in grated cheese. Replace on shell and then spread each oyster with one- half teaspoon of minced bacon. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and then bake eight minutes in a hot oven or broiler. OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL Have the oysters opened on the deep shell and remove the oyster. Look over carefully for bits of shell, and then prepare a mixture of One tablespoon of horse- catsup radish, grated One-half teaspoon of salt Three tablespoons of One teaspoon of paprika Mix and dip oysters into the sauce, then roll in finely grated chese. Serve ice cold. OYSTER COCKTAIL Sauce for the cocktail can be made from One-half cup of finely chopped onions Place in a saucepan and cook until the onions are soft and then rub through a fine sieve and add One tablespoon of horse- tershire sauce radish One teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of Worces- One teaspoon of paprika Beat to thoroughly mix and add five small oysters for each service. OYSTER PIE Make a pastry of One cup of flour One teaspoon of baking One-half teaspoon of salt powder Sift and then rub in four tablespoons of shortening, and then mix to a dough with five tablespoons of water. Roll out one-half of the pastry one-quarter inch thick and 140 MODERN COOKING then line a deep pie tin with the pastry. Then place in layers of the oysters and season with Salt grated onion Pepper One teaspoon of finely One-quarter teaspoon of minced parsley Now another layer of oysters and then seasoning. Now pour over all one cup of very thick cream sauce. Roll out the balance of the pastry and cut in one-inch- wide strips. Place lattice fashion over the tops of the pie and wash with water and bake in a hot oven for forty- five minutes. CRAB MEAT AU GRATIN Place in a bowl Two cups thick cream minced parsley sauce One and one-half teaspoons One and one-quarter cups salt crab meat One-half teaspoon white One onion grated pepper Three tablespoons finely One-half teaspoon paprika Mix with fork, turn into au gratin dish, sprinkle the top with fine bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter and then sprinkle two tablespoons grated cheese and bake in a moderate oven thirty-five minutes. To prepare cream sauce for a la King and au gratin dishes, use four level tablespoons flour to each cup milk. Dissolve flour in cold milk, bring to boil, cook two minutes ; it is then ready for use. SOFT-SHELL CRABS Soft-shell crabs are shedders, that is, the crab has shed his shell and the new one is not yet hard. To clean, insert the finger under the apron-shaped piece and the back part of the shell and remove the spongy fingers, the en- trails, etc. Wash and drain well, and then roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine crumbs and fry MODERN COOKING 141 until golden brown in hot fat. Place in a hot oven for ten minutes to cook. Serve with tartare sauce. LOBSTER Lobster may be boiled, broiled and baked and may be served in same manner as crab meat. LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG Place in a saucepan One and one-half cups of milk Five tablespoons of flour Dissolve the flour in the milk and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then add One well-beaten egg One teaspoon of paprika Lobster meat, cut in one- One-half teaspoonful of inch blocks Worcestershire sauce One teaspoon of salt Juice one-half lemon TO BROIL LOBSTERS Split the live lobster in half. Lay it on its back. Do not cut the back shell through. Remove the entrails and remove the vein through the tail. Wash well and then brush with salad oil and place in broiler, shell side up, and cook for fifteen minutes. Turn the flesh side up and baste with salad oil or melted butter. Cook for twelve minutes and then remove and serve with melted butter, chili or tomato sauce. TO BOIL Plunge the lobster into boiling water and cook for twenty minutes, for medium lobster. Cool, break apart, discard entrails and fine vein running down the centre of the tail. Break open the claws and remove the meat. This meat and that of the belly and tail may be used for salads, ravigottes, au gratins, croquettes, cutlets, a la King and terrapin style. 142 MODERN COOKING SAUCE TO SERVE WITH FISH— FOR BOILED FISH One cup of fish stocU, Three level tablespoons of (Court Bouillon) cornstarch One-half cup of milk Dissolve the starch in the milk and then add the fish stock. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for eight minutes. Add One tablespoon of butter One teaspoon of grated One teaspoon of salt onion One teaspoon of paprika One well-beaten egg Beat thoroughly to mix and then bring to heating point. Serve. TARTARE SAUCE FOR FRIED FISH One cup of mayonnaise Two tablespoons of minced dressing parsley One medium sized pickle. One teaspoon of paprika chopped fine One-half teaspoon of One tablespoon of grated mustard onion One teaspoon of salt Blend well before serving. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE One-half cup of salad oil One teaspoon of salt One onion grated Five tablespoons of One teaspoon of paprika vinegar Heat slowly until hot and then add Yolks of two eggs Stir until thick and then add one tablespoon of finely minced parsley. If this should curdle, add two table- spoons of water. Beat hard. BROILED SHAD ROE Wipe the roe and then parboil for five minutes. Now MODERN COOKING 143 wipe dry and then dust very lightly with flour and then brush with bacon fat. Place on the broiler and cook for ten minutes. Lift to a hot platter and spread with this sauce: Place on a plate Two tablespoons of butter onion One tablespoon of lemon One tablespoon of finely juice chopped onion One tablespoon of grated One teaspoon of salt BAKED SHAD Select a two and one-half pound shad. Have the fish dealer clean and prepare it for baking. Now prepare a filling as follows: Place in a bowl One cup of bread crumbs One teaspoon of pepper Two onions, chopped fine One-half teaspoon of Two tablespoons of finely thyme chopped parsley One egg One and one-half teaspoons Two tablespoons of salad of salt oil Mix well and then fill into the fish. Sew the opening with a stout string and a darning needle. Pat the flour into the fish. Place in a baking pan and bake in a hot oven for one hour. Baste every fifteen minutes with one cup of boiling water. Now, if you place a strip of cheese- cloth under the fish you will be able to lift it without breaking. Use the leftover portions for shad au gratin for Monday night's dinner. PLANKED SHAD Have the fish dealer split the shad for planking. Soak the plank in cold water for two hours and then place the fish on the plank, and brush it with lemon juice. Place in the lowest part of the broiler of the gas range. Begin to baste with cold water after the fish has been in the oven for twelve minutes. Allow thirty minutes for planking a two and one-half pound shad. 144 MODERN COOKING LONG ISLAND DEEP SEA PIE Grease a deep baking dish and then sprinkle with fine bread crumbs. Now place a layer of finely diced potatoes in the bottom of the dish. Next a layer of cooked fish, cut in to pieces the size of a walnut. Next a layer of sliced onions; then' a layer of sliced tomatoes; repeat, making two layers. Season each layer with salt, pepper and finely minced parsley. Now prepare a sauce as follows : Place One and one-half cups of Six level tablespoons of milk in a saucepan flour Stir until the flour is dissolved and then bring to a boil. Remove from the fire and add Two tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce One well-beaten egg Pour over the prepared pie. Place a crust on top, making three or four gashes in it to permit the steam to escape. Bake in slow oven one hour. APPETIZERS The appetizer is a small morsel of food served at the beginning of the meal, causes a free flow of digestive juice and thus helps the digestion. During the growing season these canapes may be scullions, served icy cold, radishes, cold and crisp and cut into thin pieces, but still left on the stem; well-cleaned, crisp, crinkly water- cress ; coleslaw, with celery ; coleslaw with green and red peppers or with scullions, or with bacon or ham nicely browned; or just a slice of full ripe tomato, spread with mayonnaise and dusted with grated cheese or paprika. Many housewives have the impression that the prepara- tion of the delicious accessories of the cosmopolitan meal is expensive. Well, I hardly need tell you that the French housewife is noted for her .thrift and that these dainty MODERN COOKING 146 tidbits are frequently portions of leftovers from a meal, sometimes the scrapings of a saucepan or a tablespoon of meat, vegetables and gravy. Have you ever had just a small piece of fish left over, entirely too small to serve by itself? And rather than leave it on a plate or saucer to form an accumulation you think. "Well, I can't use it, so into the garbage it goes." Now this tablespoon or two of fish would have made you a few delicious canapes ; by flaking it and then putting it through a sieve. Place it on a platter and then add Two tablespoons of butter One tablespoon of grated One teaspoon of paprika onion One tablespoon of finely minced parsley Work to a smooth paste and then spread on a narro\y strip of toast. Garnish with a slice of hard-boiled egg. The canape, though it bears a foreign name, is not necessarily an expensive addition to the menu for the family, nor is it elaborate. This delectable morsel is rather dainty, delicate and used as an appetizer that helps to start and stimulate the digestive juices and thus cause them to flow freely for the digestion of the food. Canapes are usually served cold, on a plate covered with a doily ; the canape is placed on this. They need not all be alike ; the bread may be cut with various sandwich cutters or it may be cut into finger widths and then toasted lightly and spread with the prepared paste. Meat, chicken, cheese, nuts, olives, etc., may be used in place of the fish. If you have a spoonful or so of peas, beans, spinach, cauliflower or asparagus you may use it in place of the fish, thus making a vegetable canape. Try two canned pimentos in place of either meat or fish. EGG CUTLETS Make a cream sauce, using six level teaspoons of flour to one cup of milk. Dissolve the flour in the milk and 146 MODERN COOKING then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then cool and place in a bowl and add two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine and Two tablespoons of finely^ One and on^e-half teaspoons chopped parsley of salt One tablespoon of finely One teaspoon of paprika grated onion One-quaher cup of fine bread crumbs Mix and then pour on well-greased platter. Cool for four hours. To mould, form into shape and then dip in flour, then in beaten egg and then in fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat or vegetable oil. Serve with tomato sauce. BAKED EGGS IN CORN CASES Make ten corn muffins from the following mixture : One and one-quarter cups Two tablespoons of syrup of milk Two tablespoons of One egg shortening Beat hard to mix and then add One and one-quarter cups Three-quarters cup of of sifted flour cornmeal Five, teaspoons of baking pawder Beat thoroughly to mix and then pour into well-greased muffin pans and bake for thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. Now cut from the top one slice from each of the four muffins and use a spoon to scoop out the centres. Break an egg and then fill to the top with cheese sauce. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and set in a baking pan and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with either cream or tomato sauce. SPANISH OMELET Beat whites of three eggs until stiff, then carefully cut and fold in yolks of three eggs. Then when well blended, MODERN COOKING 147 pour in hot frying pan containing three tablespoons of shortening ; cook slowly, shaking frequently until mixture is dry on top. Now spread with a filling prepared as follows : Place in a bowl Two tablespoons grated Two tablespoons of finely onion minced parsley One-half cup of well- One-half teaspoon of drained tomatoes Four olives, chopped fine Cook this mixture in two tablespoons of shortening until hot, spread on omelet, fold and roll, turn on hot dish, sprinkle with paprika and garnish with finely chopped parsley. EGGS A LA GRENADIER Cook three ounces of macaroni and then place in a bowl, and season highly. Add One onion, chopped fine Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley Now fill into five pimentos. Place in a baking pan and bake for fifteen minutes. Remove and then place on a hot platter, flattening well ; then place one poached egg on each pepper. Cover with cheese sauce and garnish with parsley. CODDLED EGGS Place a teaspoon of butter in an egg glass or custard cup. Break in two eggs, then add one teaspoon of butter and place in a cup of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Lift cups on saucers, dust the eggs lightly with paprika, and serve. Use two eggs for each service. How to utilize and serve leftover food so there will be no actual waste has perplexed many young housewives, and as one woman writes me: "I try to keep down the 148 MODERN COOKING leftovers, but every once in so often they jtist rise up and conquer me." Every housewife knows that, no matter how carefully she plans there is sure to be a small quantity of leftover meat, gravy or vegetables. And just what to do with them is almost a daily problem. Two essentials are necessary to successfully utilize leftovers: First, good seasoning; second, attractive appearancje. The French excel in serving leftovers because they so thoroughly understand the art of flavoring and seasoning. The French housewife knows very well that she may only have a pot au feu to serve to the family, but the family knows that the delicate, attractive manner in which the food is put on the table would appeal to the epicure, though the table is but a plain ash top, scoured to the whiteness of the snows. HOW TO PREPARE A FAGOT OF SOUP HERBS Place in separate piles : One branch of parsley One-half carrot, cut One-qtiarter leek lengthwise Two branches of thyme One bay leaf Tie in bunches and then dry thoroughly and place in a fruit jar until needed. FRENCH SEASONINGS Each housewife prepares her own seasonings from her garden. You know, she grows them in the garden, and as the leaves become abundant she picks them each day, dries them thoroughly, and then places them in separate containers. She prepares the fagots of soup herbs and has them ready for instant use. GARLIC Few American persons know of the garlic but as a rank, pungent flavor. To the foreigner garlic is as sweet tasting as the onion and its flavor delightful in food. MODERN COOKING 149 Just that dash that it needs to give it zest. Separate a clump of garlic into cloves and then peel and place in a fruit jar. Now bring one pint of white wine vinegar to the scalding point and then pour it over the garlic. Place on the cover and set in a warm place for two days. Use this vinegar for seasoning gravies and use the garlic, cut into tiny bits the size of a pinhead, for flavoring. For serving, use individual ramekin casseroles, baking shells, and thus make for efficient and quick handling of the food, in which the food itself is presented in a most attractive way. A good blend of seasoning is most important, so I am going to give you a French house- wife's secret. Mince four medium-sized onions very fine, then place in a bowl and add Six tablespoons of salt marjoram Two teaspoons of paprika One-qttarter teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of sage thyme Pinch of cloves One-half teaspoon of sweet Pinch of allspice Rub together until thoroughly mixed and then put-in a warm dry place for twenty-four hours. Put through a fine sieve. Place in a bottle and use one teaspoon of this mixture in place of salt. The average housewife seldom thinks of using such herbs as sweet basil, sorrel, tarragon, leek and chervil, yet they give a delicious flavoring not only to soups, stews, ragouts and goulashes, but to made dishes. They can be grown in the kitchen garden. A good sauce is impor- tant, and not only increases the portion, but also gives it an attractive appearance. Leftover meats and vegetables may be turned into palatable food with just a little time and energy. The basis of all croquettes should be a good thick moulding sauce that wiUgive a product that is creamy and delicious to taste. Owing to the fact that croquettes and cutlets are usually 150 MODERN COOKING fried in hot fat, it is not necessary to add either shorten- ing or butter to the cream sauce. The true secret to good croquettes or cutlets is to have the mixture rich and creamy. Mould into croquettes and then dip in flour and then in the egg mixture and finally roll in fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. How to make the foundation : Place in a saucepan: One cup of milk Seven level tablespoons of flour Stir to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then add the flavoring and seasoning. Set aside to cool and then mould. Form into croquettes, roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat. NUT AND PEPPER CROQUETTES Two green peppers Two medium-sized onions Mince very fine and then parboil and drain. Turn on a cloth and pat dry. Place in a bowl and add One cup of cream sauce. One teaspoon of salt made as given in the One teaspoon of paprika method Three tablespoons of One-half cup of finely grated cheese chopped nuts Mix thoroughly and then pour on a large platter and allow to cool, then finish as directed for cheese cro- quettes. LIMA BEAN CROQUETTES Wash and soak overnight three-quarters cup of baby lima beans. In the morning parboil until tender and then drain until very dry. Now put Two mediums-sized onions One green pepper Four pieces of bacon MODERN COOKING 161 through a food chopper. Place in a pan and cook until the onions and peppers are soft. Drain free from fat and then put the beans through the food chopper and add : The prepared peppers and Two tablespoons of finely onions and bacon minced parsley One teaspoon of paprika One teaspoon of Worces- tershire sauce Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes and dip in flour, then in beaten &gg, and roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. Leftover meat may be minced fine and seasoned as follows : Put a sufficient amount of cold cooked meat or fish through the food chopper to measure three-quarters cup and One large onion Four branches of parsley Place the mixture in a bowl and add One teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of paprika One cup of cream sauce made as directed in the method, then the finely chopped meat and one teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce. Mix thoroughly and then set aside to mould. Form into cro- quettes and roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat. Cold beef, lamb, chicken, veal, ham or crab meat or fish may be used for this delectable method of serving an entree. Nuts, eggs, cheese, both cottage or pot, and store cheese, may be used. Dried peas, lima beans, navy and soy beans as well as cow peas and lentils will afford a splendid variety to the thrifty housewife who must pro- vide cheap protein dishes. The difference between a croquette and a cutlet is just in the shape. Croquettes are shaped either in the cylin- drical or conical forms and cutlets in flat, either round, triangle or chop shape. 152 MODERN COOKING To prepare the egg for dipping add four tablespoons of evaporated milk and beat hard to thoroughly blend. Place croquette or cutlet on wire spoon and use table- spoon to pour the beaten egg over the croquette. To prepare the crumbs dry all pieces of stale bread thoroughly. No bit is too small, a crust or even the crumbs left from cutting the bread. Put the well-dried bread through the food chopper and then sift through the colander; either put the coarse crumbs through the food chopper the second time or keep them for au gratin dishes. Always serve either cream or tomato sauce with cro- quettes and cutlets and garnish them with parsley or cress. BLACKBERRY PUDDING Place in a mixing bowl : One cup of flour One and one-half cups of fine bread crumbs One-half teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of baking powder One egg Beat to mix and then pour into a pudding dish and bake forty-five minutes in a slow oven. Serve with sweet spiced blackberry sauce. MARMALADE PUDDING Place in a mixing bowl : One and one-half cups of chopped suet fine bread crumbs Three-quarters cup of Three-quarters cup of flour brown sugar One tablespoon of baking One teaspoon of nutmeg powder Two eggs One-half cup of finely One cup of milk One and one-half cups of water Two cups of well-cleaned blackberries One-quarter teaspoon of nutmeg MODERN COOKING 153 Beat to mix and then grease and flour a mould. Put four tablespoons of marmalade in the bottom and then put in two-inch layer of batter. Spread with the jam and then repeat with the batter. Repeat this process until the mould is three-quarters filled. Have the batter on top. Cover and boil for one hour. Then unmould and serve hot or cold with thin cream. PEACH CRUMB PUDDING Grease a baking dish thoroughly and then dust it well with the fine bread crumbs. Now place in a mixing bowl : Yolk of one egg One cup of brown sugar Cream and then add Two tablespoons of One tablespoon of baking shortening powder Two cups of bread crumbs One-half teaspoon of Two cups of itewed peaches nutmeg One-half cup of flour Mix thoroughly and then pour into the prepared bak- ing dish and bake in a slow oven for thirty-five minutes. Let cool and then turn from mould. COLONIAL CREAM Wash one-half cup of tapioca through several waters and then place in a saucepan and add one cup of boiling water. Cook until the tapioca is soft and clear. Re- move from the fire and partially cool. Pour upon stiffly beaten white of one egg. Now add One-half cup of sugar One-half cup of cocoanut One-half cup of finely chopped nuts Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into sherbet cups. Chill and top with one tablespoon of whipped cream or fruit whip. 154 MODERN COOKING RASPBERRY FRUIT BETTY Cook one box of raspberries with One-half cup of water One-half cup of sugar Rub through the sieve to remove the seed and then measure. Now place one and one-half cups of raspberry puree in a mixing bowl and add One and one-half cups of One-half cup of brown fine bread crumbs sugar One-half cup of flour One-half teaspoon of Two teaspoons of baking cinnamon powder Two tablespoons of melted One-half teaspoon of salt shortening Yolk of one egg Beat to mix and then pour into well-greased pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Serve with fruit sauce made from White of one egg One-half glass of jelly Beat until this mixture holds its shape. Pour over the fruit whip and little of the leftover raspberry puree. RASPBERRY CRUMB PUDDING Scald two cups of milk and then pour into a bowl and add : Two tablespoons of sugar shortening One cup of bread crumbs Three-quarters cup of One-half teaspoon of salt Beat to mix and then cool and add One cup of flour One tablespoon of baking One egg powder One and one-haif cups of prepared raspberries Beat to mix and then pour into a pudding dish and bake for forty minutes in a slow oven. Serve either hot or cold with raspberry fruit sauce. MODERN COOKING 155 CHERRY CUSTARD Stone one-half pound of cherries and then place in a saucepan and add One cup of sugar One-half cup of water Cook slowly until the fruit is tender and then measure and place Two cups of the prepared One cup of milk cherries Three eggs in a bowl and beat to thoroughly mix. Pour into custard cups and then set in a pan of warm water and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center. BUTTERMILK BAG PUDDING Use a pudding cloth to cook this pudding. Wash the cloth in warm water and then rub with shortening and dust with flour. Now place in the mixing bowl One cup of buttermilk One teaspoon of ginger Two level teaspoons of Two teaspoons of cinnamon baking soda One-half teaspoon of One-half cup of syrup nutmeg One cup of brown sugar One cup of seeded raisins, Three-quarters cup of or well-cleansed fresh finely chopped suet fruit Three cups of flour Mix thoroughly, and then tie in the prepared cloth and allow room in it for the pudding to swell. Plunge into boiling water and boil for one and one-quarter hours. Serve with sweetened cream sauce or fruit custard satice. VANILLA PUDDING Three-quarters cup of sugar One egg Cream weH and then add 166 MODERN COOKING Four tablespoons of One teaspoon of salt shortening One tablespoon of baking One cup of flour powder One cup of bread crumbs One cup of milk Mix thoroughly and then pour in well-greased mould and boil for one and one-quarter hours or bake for forty- five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with cream sauce. BANANA RICE PUDDING Wash one-quarter cup of rice well and then cook until soft and the water is absorbed in the rice, in one and one- quarter cups of water. Now place in a mixing bowl Two and one-half cups of Three-quarters cup of milk sugar Two eggs Peel and rub bananas through a sieve and then beat to mix. Add the rice and then turn into a baking dish and dust with one-half teaspoon of cinnamon. Break into bits one teaspoon of butter and then bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. RASPBERRY CUP CUSTARD Wash and drain one box of raspberries. Place in a saucepan and add One pint of water One cup of sugar Bring to a boil and cook until the berries are soft. Rub through a fine sieve. Cool. Now place three eggs in a mixing bowl and add the raspberries and beat the mixture to thoroughly blend. Pour into custard cups arid set the cups in a pan containing water. Bake in a slow oven until firm in the centre. CHOCOLATE CORN STARCH PUDDING Two cups of milk One-fourth cup of One-half cup of cocoa cornstarch MODERN COOKING 157 Dissolve the starch in the milk and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add One-half cup of sugar One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of cinnamon vanilla Beat well and then pour into custard cups that have been rinsed in cold water to mould. OLIVES OLIVE CANAPE Use stoned olives for this. Open a bottle of olives, then drain and put through the food chopper, adding One small onion Four tablespoons of One green pepper mayonnaise dressing Three slices of nicely One teaspoon of salt browned bacon One teaspoon of paprika Mix well and then spread on strips of toast. Garnish with finely chopped white of egg. OLIVE SALAD Place in a bowl One cup of olive meats Two green peppers. Four slices of nicely chopped fine browned bacon, cut into Three-quarters cup. of tiny bits mayonnaise dressing One onion, grated Mix thoroughly and then lift into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves and garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. This salad is delicious. OLIVE CHEESE BALLS Place in bowl One cup of cottage or pot One-half cup of finely cheese chopped olives One red pepper, minced One teaspoon of salt very fine One-half teaspoon of One tablespoon of grated paprika onion 168 MODERN COOKING Form into balls and then place in a nest of lettuce. Serve with French dressing. MACARONI, OLIVES AND CHEESE This dish is famous among the mountain folk in Italy and it is served on gala days. Cook four ounces of macaroni for fifteen minutes in boiling water and then drain and blanch under cold water. Cool, chop fine, and now add One-half cup of pimento One large onion, minced olives, chopped fine fine One-half cup of grated Two large red peppers, cheese minced fine Tivo cups of cream sauce Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika and a tiny piece of garlic. Mix and then pour into bak- ing dish. Dot the top with bits of butter. Place in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. OLIVE FILLING FOR MEAT AND POULTRY Two and one-half cups of One and one-half teaspoons prepared bread crumbs of salt One-half cup of finely One-half teaspoon of chopped onions paprika One-quarter cup of finely One-quarter teaspoon of chopped parsley sweet marjoram One-half cup of finely One egg chopped olives Four tablespoons shortening Mix thoroughly and then use for filling meat and poultry. This filling is delicious. To prepare the bread, soak stale bread in cold water until soft and then place in a cloth and press dry. Rub through a sieve and then measure. Use one-half cup of finely chopped stuffed olives to one cup of mayonnaise dressing. MODERN COOKING 1S9 OLIVE SANDWICH FILLING Put through the food chopper: One bottle of stuffed olives One onion Two red peppers Four branches of parsley Place in a bowl and add One-half cup of tnayon- One-half teaspoon of naise dressing paprika One teaspoon of salt Mix well and then spread between the thinly sliced bread. OLIVE SANDWICHES Remove the stone from one large bottle of queen olives and add • One onion Two red peppers Put through the food chopper and then add Three-quarters cup of One and one-half teaspoons mayonnaise of paprika One teaspoon of salt Mix and then spread on the prepared bread. OLIVE SAUCE Mince fine, using the food chopper, a sufficient amount of olives, after removing the stones, to measure one-half cup. Place in a saucepan and add One and one-half cups of One-half teaspoon of cream sauce paprika Two tablespoons of salt One-quarter teaspoon of mustard Blend well and then bring to the boiling point and serve. This sauce may be made, for variety's sake, with one and one-half cups of tomato sauce to replace the cream sauce ; then add two tablespoons of grated cheese. Heat and serve. 160 MODERN COOKING One egg Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika One-quarter teaspoon of thyme One-half cup thick cream sauce SPANISH MEAT LOAF Place in a bowl One and one-half cups of prepared bread One cup of finely minced cold-cooked mutton One cup of pimento olives, chopped fine One-half cup of finely minced onions Mix thoroughly and then pack into the prepared loaf- shaped pan. Place in a larger pan containing hot water and then bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. Serve with olive sauce. To prepare bread, soak stale bread in cold water ; press dry ; rub" through fine sieve. OLIVE AND CLAM COCKTAIL Use olive meats for this. Olive meats are pieces of olives cut from large olives and packed in jars. There are no stones nor waste. Place in a small bowl Three tablespoons of chili sauce One tablespoon of horse- radish One tablespoon of lemon juice One-quarter cup of olive meats One tablespoon of salt One tablespoon of paprika One tablespoon of grated onion Mix thoroughly and then divide into four cocktail glasses. Add three cherrystone or little-neck clams to each glass. SAUCES A formula is necessary if the housewife is to have her sauces uniform, so that One level tablespoon of flour and one cup of milk make a thin sauce, as for soups. MODERN COOKING 161 Two level tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a thin sauce. Three level tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a medium sauce. Four tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a thick sauce. Five level tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a sauce for cutlets, croquettes, etc. Use a saucepan that is scoured bright, add the flour to the cold milk and then stir to dissolve, using fork or wire whip to facilitate the process. Never use a spoon for this purpose, as it is impossible to thoroughly dissolve the lumps. Place on the fire and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook for five minutes after the boiling point is reached and then remove from the fire and add season- ing. It is\then ready to use. If you desire a butter flavor, add one tablespoon ful of butter with the season- ing and stir until melted. Part milk and water, stock, chicken broth, oyster or clam juice may be used in place of all milk with very good results. When making soups or sauces for meat and vegetable dishes the liquid from the canned vegetables, or the water in which the fresh vegetables were cooked, may be combined with an equal portion of milk. Many splendid varieties of sauce can be made from the plain cream sauce. For parsley sauce add four table- spoons of finely chopped parsley to one cup of cream sauce. ONION SAUCE One-half cupful of cooked onions, rubbed through a coarse sieve, and then add to one cupful of cream sauce. PIMENTO CREAM SAUCE Three canned pimentos, rubbed through a fine sieve and then add to one cupful of cream sauce. 162 MODERN COOKING SUPREME SAUCE One cupful of thick cream sauce One-half cupful of mush- Seasoning well to taste. CELERY SAUCE One cup of thick cream sauce One cup of finely diced celery, parboiled until Blend well. ADMIRAL SAUCE One cup of thick cream sauce Grated rind of one-quarter lemon Two tablespoons of capers Stir until well blended and then heat until just below the boiling point. Season. rooms, pared and cut in pieces and parboiled Yolk of one egg tender One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of paprika Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley Juice of one-half lemon Two tablespoons of butter BEARNAISE SAUCE One-half cup of thick cream, sauce Yolks of two eggs Blend well, and now add One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of white pepper Stir constantly until scalding hot. This sauce will not curdle if left standing for a few minutes. One teaspoon of grated onion Three tablespoons of butter One-half teaspoon of paprika Juice of one lemon MODERN COOKING 163 CREAM HORSERADISH SAUCE One cup of medium cream Three tablespoons of finely sauce Two tablespoons of grated horseradish Two tablespoons of lemon juice One teaspoonful of salt Beat thoroughly to mix. MAINTENON SAUCE (for au gratin dishes) One cup of medium cream One and one-half teaspoons minced parsley One-half teaspoon of mustard One-half teaspoon of white pepper of salt One teaspoonful of paprika One-quarter teaspoon of mustard One teaspoon of lemon juice sauce Two tablespoons of grated cheese Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley One tablespoon of grated onion Blend well. CHEESE SAUCE One cup of medium cream sauce Four tablespoons of grated cheese One teaspoon of salt Blend well until the cheese is melted. MUSTARD SAUCE One-half cup of medium cream sauce Two tablespoons of white wine vinegar Yolk of one egg Beat thoroughly to mix and then heat to the boiling point. One-half teaspoon of paprika One-quarter teaspoon of mustard One teaspoon of mustard One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of paprika 164 MODERN COOKING In no other part of cookery does the skill of the cook show to advantage as in the way in which the various sauces are prepared and served. To make a perfect sauce is an art of cooking. Many plain foods, as well as the use of leftovers, may, by the addition of a good sauce, be turned into palatable and attractive dishes. Three or four cupfuls of cream sauce may be made at one time and then poured into a bowl and covered with a damp napkin, and placed in the icebox tuitil needed. The sauce will keep in a cool place for three or four days and will relieve the necessity of making a sauce every day. To use, measure three-quarters of a cupful of sauce and add one-quarter cupful of hot water. Place in a double boiler to heat, stirring frequently to blend. It is then ready to use. Always use a double boiler in the preparation of sauces made from this cream sauce. This will prevent scorching. CUCUMBER SAUCE One cup of thick cream One and one-half tea- sauce spoons of salt One small cucumber, pared One teaspoon of paprika and grated Heat to the boiling point and then cook for five minutes. OYSTER SAUCE One cup of thick cream minced parsley sauce One teaspoon of salt Eight medium-sized oys- One teaspoonful of white ters, chopped fine pepper One teaspoon of finely Blend well and then heat to the boiling point, and cook for five minutes. MUSHROOM SAUCE Place one and one-half cups of milk in a saucepan and MODERN COOKING 165 add four tablespoons of flour. Stir until dissolved and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then add One cup of diced and par- One teaspoon of paprika boiled tmishrooms Three tablespoons of finely One well-beaten egg chopped parsley One teaspoon of salt Beat to mix and then cook for two minutes and use. PARSLEY SAUCE One and one-half cups of Three tablespoons of butter cream sauce Two teaspoons of salt One-half cup of finely One teaspoon of white chopped parsley pepper Beat to mix. CREOLE SAUCE One cup of stewed tomatoes One green pepper, chopped Three onions fine Place in a saucepan and cook slowly until the onion and pepper are soft. Rub through a fine sieve and then add Two tablespoons of corn- One teaspoon of paprika starch dissolved in One-fourth teaspoon of One-half cup of water mustard One teaspoon of salt Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes and then serve. TARTARE SAUCE One-half cup of mayon- One sour pickle, chopped naise dressing fine One onion grated One teaspoon of salt Five tablespoons of finely One-half teaspoon of chopped parsley mustard One-half teaspoon of paprika 166 MODERN COOKING Mix thoroughly and then serve very cold. HERB SAUCE Make one and one-half cups cream sauce and then add One cup of finely chopped One-half green pepper, parsley minced fine One tablespoon of grated One and one-half teaspoons onion of salt One-half teaspoon of pepper Simmer slowly for ten minutes. MINT SAUCE Shred a bunch of mint fine, and then place in a sauce- pan and add , Three-quarters cup of water One-quarter cup of sugar Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Add one-half cupful of white wine vinegar and remove from the fire. Let stand for one-half hour and then strain. Leftover portions may be bottled and the bottles stored in a cool place for future use. ENGLISH MUSTARD SAUCE Place in a soup plate One teaspoon of mustard One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of sugar paprika One-half teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of salad oil Work to a smooth paste, and then slowly beat in three three tablespoons of cream and one teaspoon of lemon juice. Beat tmtil thick and then serve. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Four tablespoons of salad One tablespoon of zvater oil One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of One-half teaspoon of vinegar paprika MODERN COOKING 167 Heat in a double boiler to the scalding point and then drop in the yolk of an egg. Stir until thick. Use at once. If it should curdle, add one tablespoon of boiling water and stir constantly until thick. RAVIGOTTE SAUCE Chop very fine sufficient parsley. To measure One-half cup One onion One large green pepper One leek Place in a bowl and add One cup of mayonnaise One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of salt mustard One teaspoon of paprika Two teaspoons of lemon juice Blend well to thoroughly mix. BROILED CHICKEN, BACON GARNISH Select a plump broiler and then singe. Then spUt down the back and draw. Wash well. Remove the breast bone. Place in a frying pan, the split side down, and add one cup of water. Cover closely and then steam for ten minutes. Now rub well with shortening. Dust very lightly with flour. Broil for twenty minutes, turn- ing every four minutes ; lift to a hot platter, brush with melted butter and garnish with bacon. EMINCE OF GIBLETS Cook the giblets and neck, then cool. Mince fine and add two hard-boiled eggs and one and one-half cups of cream sauce, and Two tablespoons finely One and one-half teaspoons minced parsley of salt One teaspoon of paprika Heat to boiling point and then simmer slowly for ten minutes. 168 MODERN COOKING CHICKEN POT ROAST, CEDAR HOLLOW STYLE Select a fat stewing chicken and then singe and draw. Wash and wipe with a clean cloth. Place in a fireless cooker or cook until tender. Now rub with shortening and dust with flour and brown in hot fat in a deep sauce- pan. Turn the chicken frequently so that it can be browned on all sides. When the chicken is nicely browned, add Four tablespoons of flour Two green peppers Three cups of chicken chopped fine stock One-half cup of finely One-half cup of grated minced onions carrot Simmer slowly for one-half hour. Season and serve. CHICKEN AND RICE CURRY Wash one-half cupful of rice in plenty of warm water and then drain. Rinse again and then place in a sauce- pan and add two and one-half cups of boiling water. Cook gently until the grains are soft and the water ab- sorbed. Now place One teaspoon of bacon or chicken fat Three tablespoons of flour in an iron frying pan and brown carefully until a dark brown, then add One and one-half cups of One tablespoon of Worces- chicken stock tershire sauce Two large onions, chopped Three-quarters teaspoon of very fine curry powder Two tablespoons of catsup One teaspoon of salt Cook gently to the boiling point and then add one cup- ful of shredded chicken meat and the prepared rice. Heat slowly until very hot and then turn on a hot platter and garnish with finely shredded parsley, then serve. MODERN COOKING 169 HOW TO PREPARE CHICKEN FOR CHICKEN SALAD OR COLD CUTS Singe and draw the chicken and then cut as for fricas- seeing. Now place the back of the carcass, giblets and the thighs and legs in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and then turn into a colander and place under cold running water. Then drop into a saucepan containing boiling water and cook for ten minutes. Blanch in the colander under cold running water. Repeat this three times and then add the balance of the chicken and cook slowly until tender. Cool in the liquid. Pick the meat from the neck and back of the carcass and mince the giblets fine. Put the skin through the food chopper. Use this for chicken loaf. CHICKEN LOAF Use two cups of mince prepared from the skin, giblets and meat from the carcass. One and one-half cups of One and one-half teaspoons cold cooked oatmeal of paprika One onion, grated Two greens peppers One-half teaspoon of chopped fine powdered thyme Four tablespoons of One-half teaspoon mustard chicken fat Three teaspoons of salt One egg One-half cup of chicken stock Mix thoroughly and then pour into a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Set this pan in a larger one containing hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours. Serve hot with a cream, tomato or brown sauce, or serve cold with a garnish of asparagus with the HoUandaise, mayonnaise or cream horseradish sauce. ROAST CHICKEN Prepare the chicken. Fill with 170 MODERN COOKING Two stalks of celery One fagot of potherbs Two onions Two tablespoons of butter, One cupful of bread or shortening crumbs One egg Put the celery, onions and potherbs through the food chopper. Mix bread crumbs, butter and beaten egg. Fill into the chicken and then sew the opening. Shape and roast in a moderate oven for twenty minutes to the pound. Baste every ten minutes the first half hour, then every twenty minutes until the chicken is cooked. ENCHILDAS Place One cup of flour One teaspoon of salt One-quarter cup of One tablespoon of cornflour shortening in a mixing bowl. Sift to mix and then add sufficient water to make a dough. Break the dough into pieces the size of a large walnut, and then roll out very thin. You may bake the tortillas on the iron griddle on the top of the stove or fry them in a pan, using a little shortening. Keep on a clean towel until all are fried. Now place two ounces of grated cheese in a bowl and add two onions that have been cooked until tender in two tablespoons of shortening and One-half cup of finely Two tablespoons of chili chopped cold meat, sauce preferably chicken Mix to blend and then spread the tortillas with this mixture. Roll or fold and then pour over them more hot chili sauce. CHICKEN GUMBO OKRA Clean and cut the chicken for stewing. Brown quickly in hot fat. Lift to a deep saucepan and add MODERN COOKING 171 Two quarts of water One hay leaf Four onions Two cloves Cook until the chicken is tender. Now thicken the liquid slightly with cornstarch. Season with Red pepper and salt thyme Two tablespoons of finely One tablespoon of gumbo chopped parsley or file One-half teaspoon of Two cups of cooked okra Send to the table at once and serve with plenty of boiled rice. Note. — Gtunbo, or file, is a powder made and sold in Louisiana. It is composed of young sassafras leaves. File can be purchased in fancy grocery stores. CHICKEN MOUSSE Put sufficient boiled cold chicken through a food chop- per to measure two cups, using the fine knife. Place in a bowl and add Two teaspoons of grated One-half teaspoon of onion paprika One teaspoon salt Mix well and then soak one and one-half level table- spoons of gelatine in four tablespoons of cold water for twenty minutes, then add one-half cup of boiling chicken stock. Simmer slowly for five minutes and then strain into the prepared chicken meat. Stir until it is cool, and then fold in one cup of whipped cream. Pour into small custard cups that have been rinsed with cold water. Set in a cold place for six hours to mould. Unmould in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. POULTRY To roast young chickens and guineas : singe, draw and prepare the fowl j now rub the entire bird well with plenty of shortening. Dust very lightly with flour, place in 172 MODERN COOKING pan in hot oven for fifteen minutes; now turn the fowl breast down in the pan and reduce the heat of the oven to moderate. Baste every ten minutes with following mix- ture: One pint boiling water Two tablespoons butter When fowl is tender turn on back to allow breast to brown, basting every five minutes. Placing the breast of the chicken down in the pan throws the bony structure of the carcass to the intense heat of the oven. The constant basting causes the moisture to permeate the dry white meat, making it juicy and tender. If you desire, lay a few strips of bacon over the breast when browning it, just before you remove it from oven. It will improve the flavor. CHICKEN SALAD SANDWICHES Cut the meat from a three-and-one-half-pound cold hoiled fowl and then put through the food chopper, using the coarsest knife. Place in a bowl, adding one medium- sized head of lettuce, shredded fine. Place One small onion, grated mayonnaise or salad One green pepper, minced dressing fine Two and one-half tea- One and one-half cups of spoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika Mix and then fill into quart fruit jars. This amount will make from forty to fifty sandwiches. BAKED SQUAB Split the squab down the back with a sharp knife and then clean thoroughly. Wash well and wipe dry. Place in cool place until needed. Mince the giblets fine and then parboil. Now soak stale tread until soft. Squeeze dry and measure three-quarters of a cupful. Place in frying pan and add MODERN COOKING 173 One-quarter cup of finely One teaspoon of poultry minced celery leaves seasoning Minced giblets Four tablespoons of One onion, minced fine shortening One teaspoon of salt Cook gently until onions are soft and then cool. Fill into squab and then sew up with darning needle and stout string. Rub with shortening and dust with corn- flour. Place in a hot oven and bake, basting with boiling water. When the back is well browned reduce the heat and turn the bird on its back and let brown slowly, allowing fifty-five minutes for cooking the squab. Filling may be placed in chicken or guinea if desired. TENNESSEE TURKEY HASH Cut sufficient turkey in one-half inch blocks to measure two cupfuls. Now add One cup of diced celery One tablespoon of One onion, minced fine cornstarch One tablespoon of butter Mix thoroughly, then add One-half cup of boiling water Cook slowly until the meat is very tender, then serve garnished with finely chopped parsley and hot cornmeal waffles. FILLET OF CHICKEN, POINDEXTER Singe, draw and then wash thoroughly a large stewing chicken and then cook until tender. Let cool. Now cut the wings and take out the bones, breaking as little as possible. Cut the breast into slices a little larger than an oyster and remove the legs and thighs. Remove the bones and then cut the meat into neat fillets. If the meat breaks apart, press firmly together and then season, roll in flour and dip in beaten egg;, then roll in fine bread 174 MODERN COOKING crumbs. Press firmly. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. This may be prepared early in the day and then set in the oven to heat. CHICKEN TAMALES Soak the corn husks in cold water for two hours. Place in a saucepan. Two cups of chicken stock Three-quarters cup of One teaspoon of salt corntneal Cook until thick mush, cool and then place in a bowl Three-quarters cup of finely Two green peppers, chopped chicken meat chopped fine One onion, chopped fine Six olives, chopped fine Two dozen seeded raisins Mix thoroughly and then drain the corn husks. Spread a layer of the corn mush on one part, place a tablespoon of the chicken filling in place and then cover with more com mush, forming a roll a little larger than a sausage. Tie securely in corn husk and place in a steamer or a double boiler and cook for one and one-quarter hours. Other meat may be used to replace the chicken and water may be used in place of the chicken stock to make the mush. HONEY RECIPES CANDIED SWEET POTATOES WITH HONEY Place in an iron frying pan Three-quarters cup of One-quarter teaspoon of honey mace Two tablespoons of One-quarter teaspoon of shortening cinnamon Bring to a boil and cook until it becomes thick, then add six boiled sweet potatoes. Turn them frequently in MODERN COOKING 175 syrup, adding four tablespoons of water to prevent burn- ing. Cook slowly for twenty minutes. Note. — Have the potatoes boiled and then peeled, and ready waiting before putting the honey in the pan. HONEY RICE PUDDING Wash one-half cup of rice thoroughly and then cook in two and one-half cups of water until tender and the water absorbed. Turn into a baking dish and add One cup of honey One-half teaspoon of Three cups of milk nutmeg One well-beaten egg Stir to thoroughly mix and then bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. HONEY ICING Boil one cup of honey until it forms a soft ball when tried in cold water. Then pour in a fine stream upon the stiffly beaten white of one egg. Beat until the mixture thickens and then spread on the cake. NUT HONEY CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One cup of honey Nine tablespoons of One cup of brown sugar shortening Yolks of two eggs Cream together and then add Three-quarters cup of sour One and one-half tea- milk spoons of baking soda Dissolve the baking soda in the sour milk, then add Four cups of flour One-half teaspoon of Two teaspoons of nutmeg cinnamon One cup of finely chopped One-half teaspoon of raisins allspice One cup of finely chopped One-half teaspoon of cloves nuts One tablespoon of baking powder 176 MODERN COOKING Mix thoroughly and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into well-greased and floured pan and bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. Ice with butter cream icing. HONEY CUSTARD Place two cups of milk in a mixing bowl and add Three-quarters cup of One-quarter teaspoon of honey nutmeg Two eggs Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into custard cups. Place cups in a baking pan containing water and bake in a slow oven until firm in center. HONEY RAISIN TAPIOCA Wash one cup of tapioca well and then place in a saucepan and add Otie cup of honey Four cups of water Bring to a boil and cook slowly until clear and the tapioca is soft, then add One-half package of seeded raisins Yolk of one egg Stir to thoroughly blend and then cook fifteen minutes. Serve with fruit whip made of One-half glass of jelly White of one egg Beat until the mixture holds its shape. HONEY COOKIES Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of One egg brown sugar Seven tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of shortening honey Beat to blend and then add MODERN COOKING 177 Three and three-quarter One-half cup of finely cups of flour chopped nuts One-half cup of seeded One teaspoon of baking raisins powder One teaspoon of mace Roll and cut and then bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. HONEY CAKES One cup of honey sugar One-half cup of brown One-half cup of shortening Cream well and then add Yolks of three eggs One-half teaspoon of salt Four cups of sifted flour One and one-half teaspoons One teaspoon of cimiamon of baking soda, dissolved One-half teaspoon of in nutmeg One cup of sour milk Beat to thoroughly mix and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. Pour into a well- greased and floured baking pan, about one inch deep. Bake in a moderate oven and cool. Cover with honey icing. MALVERN CREAM Place in a saucepan Three-quarters cup of Six level tablespoons of honey cornstarch Two cups of milk Dissolve the starch in cold milk and honey and then place on the stove and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes. Now add One teaspoon of vanilla One-quarter teaspoon of nutmeg Beat to thoroughly mix and then rinse custard cups in cold water. Pour in the pudding and set aside to mould. When ready to serve unmould and serve with crushed fruit. 178 MODERN COOKING HONEY APPLE PUDDING Two cups of stewed apples One and one-half cups of One cup of honey flour One-half cup of brown Two level tablespoons of sugar baking powder Four tablespoons of Two teaspoons of shortening cinnamon Two cups of fine bread One-half teaspoon of cloves crumbs Beat to mix and then put into a baking dish and bake in a slow oven for thirty-five minutes. Serve with a thin apple sauce, sweetened with honey. HONEY AND RASPBERRY ADE Place three baskets of well-washed raspberries in a saucepan and add One quart of water One-quarter teaspoon of One and one-half cups of nutmeg honey Bring to a boil and cook slowly until the fruit is soft, mashing frequently with the potato masher. Cool and strain into punch bowl. Add a piece of ice and the juice of one orange or one lemon. FATS Fat is a heat- or fuel-producing food which is very valuable in cold weather for supplying the body with heat and energy. Often foods that are cooked in fat are termed indigestible; this means that the food is not utilized in the body and, owing to some digestive dis- turbances, it becomes part of the waste. Recent experi- ments tend to show that animal fats are assimilated fairly well; undoubtedly it is the misuse of fat that is used for frjring purposes that has given many fried foods their bad reputation. Every normal person requires a certain amount of fat. MODERN COOKING 179 Make it a rule when serving fried food to have an acid food, either a vegetable or a garnish, accompany the dish. Here are just a few things to keep in mind when plan- ning to serve fried foods: Use very small quantities of foods that are cooked in fat for people occupying sedentary positions, while those who are employed in active or laboribus work may eat a larger proportion. Persons who are working at hard manual labor, out of doors, will be able to assimilate daily portions of fried food without any physical disturbances. For digestion's sake, learn to serve : Juice of lemon with fried Cranberry or currant jelly fish with poultry, lamb or Apple sauce with pork or mutton goose Horseradish with beef It is a curious thing that nature demands these com- binations to equalize the fatty content of the meal. Save and clarify the various fats and utilize each paticular kind, so that there need be no waste. Chop all bits of suet fine and place in a double boiler and then render. Chicken and pork fat may be rendered in this way. An excellent shortening that may be used to replace butter in cooking and baking may the made from chicken fat, of which there is usually three or more ounces in one fat bird. Remove the fat from the bird and place in cold salt water for one hour and then drain and cut into smalt pieces. Render in a double boiler. Pour into a jar and allow to harden. Now, when using this fat, use one- third less than the amount called for in the recipe. To make pastry, allow four tablespoon fuls of this chicken fat to each cup of flour. Chicken fat may be used to replace butter for seasoning vegetables and mashed potatoes. This is a pure fat free from moisture and seasoning and will go farther than butter. Generally, in speaking of the term "drippings," it meant to include fats that cook out from the roast beef. 180 MODERN COOKING pot roast, soups and corned beef. This fat is clarified and then used for sauteing. It cannot be used with good results for making pastry and cakes. To clarify fat : Put the fat in a saucepan and add one cupful of cold water to every pound of fat. Add One-fourth teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda One-half teaspoon of salt Bring to a boil and then simmer slowly for ten minutes. Pour through a strainer lined with cheesecloth and allow to harden, then cut into pieces. Reheat and pour into jars. Bacon, sausage and ham fats may be blended with beef drippings for frying purposes. Mutton or lamb fat must be clarified and then blended with ham and bacon or sausage fat. Fat from bacon, ham and sausages may be used for flavoring vegetables in place of butter, for cooking omelets, potato cakes, mush and scrapple. It is a splendid seasoning to use for macaroni, baked beans with tomato sauce, dried beans and peas in soups and when cooking dried lima beans. There is really no need to allow a spoonful of these fats to be wasted. Fats that are not available for table use should be collected and made into soap. Do not be falsely economical in trying to do deep frying with these fats. They not only will not hold the temperature for successful frying without scorching, but they frequently soak into the food and make it unfit to eat. The late war has brought many good vegetable oils upon the market that are ideal for cooking purposes and are preferable to the animal fats for all cooking. They not only hold a high temperature without burning, but also they may be used repeatedly if they are strained each time after using. Food cooked in vegetable oil does not absorb the fat and it is more digestible and really more economical. MODERN COOKING 181 FRYING There are two methods of frying : First. — Sauteing— -cooking food in the pan with just sufficient fat to prevent scorching. This method is com- monly used, but has nothing to really recommend it, as the food absorbs quantities of grease. This makes it difficult to digest. Second. — ^Deep-fat frying — it is usual to dip the food to be fried in a mixture to coat it and then to roll it in fine bread crumbs and then cook in sufficient fat to cover. This forms an air-tight cover that prevents the grease from soaking through. A few essential utensils are nec- essary to produce successful results ; first, a heavy kettle that w^ill not tilt, and second, a frying basket, so that the food may be removed quickly when cooked. The correct temperature for deep-fat frying is 350 degrees Fahrenheit, for raw foods, such as crullers, fish, fritters, potatoes, etc. For cooked dishes and oysters, cheeseballs, etc., 370 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not attempt to cook large quantities at one time. This will cause a sudden drop in the temperature of the fat, allowing it to permeate the food which is cooking and thus give a greasy product. Now for a word of protection. Do not use too large a kettle. Keep a bucket of sand handy in the kitchen, and if for any reason the fat catches fire, throw sand on it; do not attempt to remove it from the stove; serious burns are apt to result. Just turn out the light and throw sand on the fire. Keep the fact in mind that water spreads the flames ; if no sand is at hand, use salt or flour. MOCK CHERRY PIE Pick over one and one-half cups of cranberries; then place in a saucepan and add Three-quarters cup of raisins One cup of water 182 MODERN COOKING Cook slowly until the berries are soft, and then cool. Now place Three-quarters cup of sugar One-half cup of flour in a bowl and rub between the hands to mix. Add sugar and flour and stir until dissolved. Bring to a boil and cook for a few minutes. Cool. Bake between two crusts. This amount will make two pies. CRANBERRY ROLL Place in a bowl Two cups of sifted flour Four teaspoons of baking One-half teaspoon of scUt powder Six tablespoons of sugar Sift to mix and then rub in four tablespoons of shortening and mix to a dough with two-thirds cup of water or milk. Work to a smooth dough and then roll out one-quarter inch thick. Spread with a thick cran- berry conserve; roll as for jelly-roll, tucking the ends in securely. Place in a well-greased baking pan and bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. Start basting with One-half cup of syrup Four tablespoons of water Serve the roll with cranberry sauce. STRAWBERRY CUSTARD TART This old English sweet is delicious. Line a pie tin with plain pastry and then cover the bottom of the prepared tin with strawberries. Then place in a bowl One cup of milk Two eggs One-half cup of sugar Beat with egg-beater to thoroughly mix and then pour •ver the berries. Dust the top lightly with nutmeg and hake in a slow oven until the custard is firm. Set aside to cool. Dot the top with strawberry preserves. MODERN COOKING 18S CRANBERRY CONSERVE Look over carefully and remove all the bruised and spoiled berries from one quart of cranberries. Place in a saucepan and add one cup of water. Cook slowly until soft and then rub through a sieve. Return to tli saucepan and add Two cups of sugar One cup of seeded raisins Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Pour into a dish and set aside to cool. CREAM PUFFS Place one cup of water in a saucepan and add one-half cup of shortening. Bring to a boil and then add one and one-quarter cups of flour, stirring constantly. Cook until the mixture forms into a ball on the spoon, then lift into a bowl and now beat in three eggs, one at a time. Beat in each egg until well blended. Drop by the spoonful on well-greased baking sheet three inches apart. Bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven, then reduce the heat to moderate and bake for fifteen minutes longer. Do not open the oven door for ten minutes after putting the puffs in the oven. PEACH ROLL Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of flour Four teaspoons of baking One teaspoon of salt powder Three tablespoons of sugar Sift to mix and then rub in five tablespoons of short- ening, and mix to a dough with two-thirds of a cup of ice- cold water. Roll out on a well-floured pastry board one-quarter inch thick. Now cover with the prepared peaches and then sift over One-half cup of sugar One-half teaspoon of cinnamon; Roll as for jelly roll, tucking the ends in securely. 184 MODERN COOKING Place in a well-greased and floured pan and bake in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes. Baste every ten minutes with One-half cup of syrup One-quarter teaspoon of Five tablespoons of water nutmeg Stir to thoroughly mix before basting the roll. Re- move the roll to a large platter when baked and serve cold, with crushed and sweetened peaches in place of a sauce. To prepare the peaches for the roll select the fully ripe peaches and cut into thin slices; if they are clinging stones, cut into small pieces. CHOCOLATE PIE Place in a saucepan One and one-half cups of One-half cup of cornstarch water One cup of sugar One-half cup of cocoa Stir until the cornstarch is dissolved and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Cool and then pour into pastry lined pie tin. Bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. BUTTERSCOTCH PIE Line a pie tin with plain pastry and then place in a saucepan Three tablespoons of butter One cup of brown sugar Heat slowly and cook for three minutes. Tlien place one and one-half cups of cold milk in a bowl and add four level tablespoons of cornstarch to the milk. Stir to dis- solve the starch and add to the cooked sugar and stir constantly to thoroughly blend. Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Cool and add One well-beaten egg Then pour into the prepared pie plate. Care must be taken not to let the sugar caramel. MODERN COOKING 185 ARTICHOKES The artichoke is a plant closely resembling the thistle, and it is extensively cultivated for its flowering head. The head is gathered just before the flower expands. The eatable portion is the fleshy part of the calyx, the bottom or basin of the blossom and the true base of the leaves of the flower. The flesh of the artichokes correspond closely to that which the old world folks call the cheese of the thistle. On the Continent, in Europe, the artichoke is frequently served raw, as a salad, with either French or Parisian dressing. Undei: ordinary circumstances the fruit as prepared for market will keep several weeks. The canned artichoke, which was imported quite extensively before the war, consisted of the fronds and bottoms. ' It came in large quantities from both France and Italy. The artichoke buds are used exclusively for garnishing. THE JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE This kind of artichoke is a tuber of the species of the sunflower; it resembles somewhat the Irish potato. It has a sweetish flavor and contains a large amount of natural water. This species of artichoke is more valu- able than the common artichoke. The two principal types of the Jerusalem artichokes are First: Long with reddish skin, Second: Round, knobby and white in color. On the Continent they are frequently eaten raw, with just a plain seasoning of salt, pepper and vinegar; in fact, much as we eat the American radish. They are frequently made into soup. The word Jerusalem is a queer cross of dialect from the Italian word girasole, meaning sunflower. 186 MODERN COOKINfe TO COOK Soak the fruit in a bowl of cold water for two hours; then shake about in the water freely to remove all traces of sand. Plunge into boiling water and cook until tender ; then drain. Serve in choice of following methods : ARTICHOKE HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Prepare artichoke as given above. Cut into pieces; then cook until tender; drain and lift each portion on a thin slice of toasted bread. Cover with HoUandaise dressing. ARTICHOKE VINAIGRETTE Cut one cold boiled artichoke into quarters ; then place in deep bowl and cover with following dressing. Place in a bow> Ohc teaspoon of sugar Juice of one-half lemon or One-half teaspoon of salt two tablespoons of One-half teaspoon of vinegar paprika Five tablespoons of salad One-half teaspoon of oil mustard Beat to thoroughly mix. Now add one tablespoon of grated onion and stir until well blended. Place arti- choke in nest of lettuce ; pour over dressing. Serve gar- Bished with finely chopped pimento. ARTICHOKE FRIED IN BATTER Cook artichoke until tender ; drain and cut into eighths ; Ap in the batter; fry until golden brown in hot fat. Serve with cheese sauce. Break in a bowl One egg Two tablespoons of water Beat to mix. Add MODERN COOKING 187 Seven level tablespoons of One-quarter teaspoon of flour pepper One-half teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of vinegar One teaspoon of grated onion Beat well to mix; now dip artichoke in flour; then shake to loosen excess flour. Now dip in batter; fry golden brown. ONIQNS ONION AND POTATO MINCE Pare and slice sufficient onions to measure one cupfuL Parboil and then drain. Now place four tablespoons of fat in a frying pan and add the onions and one and a half cups of mashed potatoes. Turn constantly until well blended and then form into an omelet shape in a pan, and turn on a warm platter and serve with cream sauce. ONIONS IN RAMEKINS Peel and boil until tender one dozen medium-sized onions. Drain and then place in ramekins. Season and cover with cream sauce. Dust the top with a few bread- crumbs and then sprinkle with one teaspoon of grated cheese. Dust lightly with paprika and then bake for fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. ONIONS FRIED IN BATTER Pare and cook one dozen medium-sized onions tmtil tender, taking care that they do not break. Drain and then cool, and when ready to prepare dip in batter and then fry in hot fat, and serve with Hollandaise sauce. How to prepare the batter : Place in a bowl Six tablespoons of water Eight tablespoons of flom One-half teaspoon of salt Beat to mix and then roll the onions in flour and then dip in a batter and fry until golden brown in hot Cat 188 MODERN COOKING FRENCH FRIED ONIONS Peel large onions and then cut into one-half-inch slices. Fry tintil golden brown in hot fat and serve as a garnish with omelets, fish, cold meat, etc. BAKED ONIONS Large or Spanish onions are best for this dish. Peel the onions and then boil until tender, and then take care that the onion does not become soft. Lift and then cool, and carefully remove the centres. Now prepare the following as a filling for four large or eight medium- sized onions. Four tablespoons of grated One teaspoon of paprika cheese Two teaspoons of finely Six tablespoons of fine minced parsley bread crumbs One egg One teaspoon of salt Mix thoroughly to blend and then fill the cavity of the onions, forming into a point or top one inch over the onion. Dust the onion lightly with flour and then place in a baking dish. Now baste onions with melted shorten- ing and bake for twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Chop the onions which have been removed from the centres very fine and add to one cup of cream sauce with One and one-half teaspoons Three tablespoons of of salt parsley One-half teaspoon of white One well-beaten egg pepper Beat to mix thoroughly and then heat to the boiling point. Serve over the baked onion. This dish will re- place meat for luncheon. SWISS ONION AND POTATO PANCAKES Peel and put two Spanish onions through the food MODERN COOKING 189 chopper, using a fine knife. Place in a bowl and thea pare and grate four medium-sized potatoes into a bowl and add Three-quarters cup of milk One-half teaspoon of One egg pepper One tablespoon of syrup Seven-eighths cup of flotw One and one-half teaspoons Two level teaspoons of of salt baking powder Two level teaspoons of shortening Beat to mix and then fry like pancakes. Serve with parsley butter. ONION CUSTARD Chop sufficient onions to measure one-half cup. Par- boil and then drain. Now place in a bowl. One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of paprika milk Two tablespoons of finely Two eggs chopped parsley One teaspoon of salt Beat to mix and then grease the custard cups. Add one-half cup of fine bread crumbs to the prepared onions. Mix well and then divide into six cups. Pour the pr&- pared custard on the top. Place the cups in a baking pan, add one quart of water and then place in a moderate oven and bake until firm in the centre, usually about twenty-five minutes. The water in the baking pan pre- vents the custards from cooking too fast. Serve in the cups or let stand for five minutes before taking from the mould and putting on a slice of toast. PARSLEY BUTTER Two tablespoons of butter One teaspoon of lemon Three tablespoons of finely juice minced parsley Beat to a smooth paste and use. This dish will replace potatoes in the luncheon menu. 190 MODERN COOKING HAVANA BANANA PASTRY Two cups of flour Two teaspoons of baking Ome-half teaspoon of salt powder One tablespoon of sugar Place in a mixing bowl and sift to thoroughly mix. Now rub into the prepared flour eight tablespoons of shortening and then mix to a dough with one-half cup of ice-cold water. Roll the pastry on a slightly floured pastry board one- fourth inch thick ; cut in oblongs three inches wide and six inches long. Peel the banana and lay on the pastry ; sprinkle with One teaspoon of brown Pinch of nutmeg sugar Pinch of cinnamon One-half teaspoon of butter Brush the edges of the pastry with cold water and press firmly together, inclosing the banana. Lay on a well- greased and floured baking sheet, placing the side which was fastened together down. Brush with beaten egg and bake in a moderate oven for eighteen minutes. Serve just as you would other pastries, FRIED BANANAS Peel the bananas and then cut into two; roll in flour and then dip in beaten egg and roll in fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown and serve with broiled steak or chops or chicken fricassee. BANANA CUSTARD PIE Pare and then rub through a fine sieve sufficient ba- nanas to measure one cup. Place in a mixing bowl and add One-half cup of sugar One-quarter teaspoon of Juice of one lemon grated rind of lemon MODERN COOKING 191 Stir to mix and then add slowly, beating to mix One cup of milk One-quarter teaspoon of Yolk of one egg nutmeg One whole egg Beat to mix and then pour in a pie plate lined with plain pastry. Bake in a slow oven for twenty-five minutes and then cool. Use the white of egg and one- half glass of jelly for fruit whip. BANANA ICE CREAM One and one-half cups of One cup of sugar banana pulp Juice of one lemon Place in a mixing bowl and then cover and set aside. Now place Two and one-half cups of Pour tablespoons of milk cornstarch in a saucepan and stir to dissolve the starch. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add the yolks of two eggs. Beat to thoroughly mix and add the banana mixture. Beat hard to blend. Now beat into the mix- ture the stiffly beaten whites of the two eggs. Freeze in the usual manner, using three parts ice to one part salt. This amount will make three pints of ice-cream. BANANA STUFFING FOR CHICKEN Pare and rub through a sieve four bananas. Place in a bowl and add One-half grated onion chopped fine One green pepper, chopped One and one-quarter cups fine of bread crumbs Three tablespoons of finely Pinch of thyme chopped parsley One egg Four slices of bacon One teaspoon of salt Mix thoroughly and then fill into the chicken and roast in the usual manner. 192 MODERN COOKING BANANA FRITTERS Place in a mixing bowl One cup of banana pulp One tablespoon of One-quarier cup of sugar shortening Yolks of two eggs Beat to mix and then add One and one-half cups of One and one-half teaspoons flour of baking powder Beat to mix and then cut and fold into the mixture whites of two eggs, beaten stiff. Fry in deep fat until golden brown and then serve with banana sauce. BAKED BANANAS Wash the bananas and remove just one strip from the top. Place in a baking pan and add one-half cup of water and bake in a moderate oven for one-half hour. BANANA MUFFINS Rub a sufficient number of bananas through a sieve to measure one cup. Place in a mixing bowl and add One cup of brown Five teaspoons of baking sugar powder Four tablespoons of One cup of milk shortening One-half teaspoon of Two cups of flour nutmeg Beat to mix and then bake in well-greased and floured muffin pans in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Ice the tops with water-icing. RICE BANANAS AND POACHED EGGS Cook one-fourth cup of rice in one and one-fourth cups of water until the rice is soft and the water absorbed. Place in a baking dish and cover one inch deep with sliced bananas. Place in the oven and bake for ten imnutes Now lay on one poached egg for each service. MODERN COOKING 193 Garnish with a strip of bacon and serve with parsley sauce. BANANA PANCAKES Place in a mixing bowl One cup of crushed Two tablespoons of bananas shortening One cup of milk One egg One and one-half cups of Two teaspoons of baking flour powder Two tablespoons of syrup Beat to mix and then bake in the usual manner on a well-greased smoking hot frying pan. BANANA SAUCE One-half cup of crushed One teaspoon of vanilla bananas Juice of one orange One-half cup of sugar Beat to mix and then serve with the fritters. FISH Fish are divided into two classes — those having back- bones, which are called vertebrates ; and those which have no backbones, and are called shellfish. The vertebrates are classified as fresh and salt-water fish, and they contain both white and dark meat. Fish is similar to meat in composition and structure and is classed among the protein or body-building foods ; it may replace meat or its equivalent on the menu. The muscle consists of a bundle of fibers, bound to- gether by a connective tissue; it is so tender that it re- quires much less time to cook than meat. Fish, as a rule, contains less fat than meat; and while there is con- siderable refuse, it will be found to be about equal to the bone in meat. The methods of cooking fish are : Broiling, boiling, baking, deep fat frying and sauteing. 194 MODERN COOKING TO BOIL FISH Cleanse and prepare the fish. Tie in a piece of cheese- doth and then plunge into a kettle of boiling court bouillon. Cook, allowing twenty minutes to the pound. Lift, drain well and then turn on a hot platter, laying a napkin under the fish to absorb the moisture. Serve with either cream, HoUandaise, egg or tomato sauce and garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg, beet and carrots cut in dice or capers, diced beets, slices of lemon. BAKED FISH Cleanse and prepare the fish, leaving the head and tail on the body, but remove the eyes and fins. Now prepare a filling as follows : One cup of bread crumbs One teaspoon of paprika Three tablespoons of One small onion grated shortening One egg One teaspoon of salt Mix and then fill into the fish. Fasten the opening with a string or with toothpicks. Place in a baking dish and rub with plenty of shortening. Dust with flour and place in a hot oven to bake. Baste every fifteen minutes with boiling water. Allow eighteen minutes to the pound and twenty minutes for the fish to heat thoroughly and start baking. COURT BOUILLON Place five pints of water in a fish kettle and add One small onion, sliced One teaspoon of paprika One clove One teaspoon of celery salt Three branches of parsley Two teaspoons of salt One small red pepper One-half cup of vinegar One-half bay leaf One fagot of soup herbs Bring to a boil and cook the fish. Strain and set aside to cook fish in again. MODERN COOKING 195 FISH SAUCE Strain the liquid left in the pan after removing the fish and add sufficient boiling water to make one cup. Place in a saucepan and add Two level tablespoons of One tablespoon of cornstarch, dissolved in Worcestshire sauce three level tablespoons One teaspoon of salt of water One teaspoon of paprika One tablespoon of butter Juice of one-half lemon Bring to a boil, cook for five minutes and serve with fish. TO BROIL FISH Cleanse the fish, leaving the small fish whole, split the large fish and then brush with melted shortening and broil, allowing ten minutes for small fish and ten minutes to the pound for larger ones. Large fish will require thirty to forty-five minutes. Lift to a hot platter and spread with Two tablespoons of One tablespoon of butter Worcestshire sauce Two tablespoons of One tablespoon of lemon parsley juice Mix well and then garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. CREOLE FRIED FISH The Creole fried fish is a crisp golden brown. It is prepared as follows: Clean the fish and then wash and drain and roll it in flour. Place in a pan containing hot fat and fry until golden brown. Place in the oven, if the fish is large, until all is cooked and to finish cooking. FRIED FISH Small fish, like smelts, brook trout, perch, butter fish, etc., may be well cleaned, dried and then dipped in beaten 196 MODERN COOKING egg and rolled in fine crumbs. Large fish should be cut into suitable pieces; sliced fish may also be prepared in this manner. SAUTEING Fish should be well cleaned and then fried in sufficient fat to prevent sticking. COCOANUT PUDDING Place in a mixing bowl One cup of bread crumbs Three-quarters cup of One cup of sifted flour cocoanut One-half teaspoon of salt One egg One tablespoon of baking One cup of milk powder Beat to thoroughly mix and pour into well-greased custard cups or pudding pan and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Serve with lemon sauce. SNOW PUDDING Place in a saucepan One cup of milk Four level tablespoons of cornstarch Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add Six tablespoons of sugar One teaspoon of vanilla Stiffly beaten white of one egg Beat thoroughly to blend. Pour in four custard cups and set in a cool place to mould. Serve with custard sauce. FRUIT PUDDING Place in a bowl One cup of molasses And add MODERN COOKING 197 One cup of sour milk Four tablespoons of cocoa One egg One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of baking coarse bread crumbs soda One and one-half cups of Fiz'e tablespoons of wheat flour shortening One-half cup of seeded One teaspoon of cinnamon raisins One-half teaspoon of Two teaspoons of baking allspice powder Mix in the order given, beating hard. Pour in well- greased and floured mould. Boil and steam for two hours and then serve with vanilla or cream sauce. RICE PUDDING Wash one-half cup of rice in plenty of cold water. Place in a saucepan and add three cups of boiling water. Cook slowly until water is absorbed and then grease a baking dish well. Pour rice in a bowl and add Two cups of milk One-half teaspoon of One yolk of egg nutmeg One-half cup of sugar One-half teaspoon of salt Mix well and pour in a baking dish and bake in a slow oven for thirty-five minutes. Cook and then place the left-over white of egg and one-half glass of jelly in a bowl and beat until it will hold its shape. Use as a whip for the pudding. CHOCOLATE RICE PUDDING Wash one-half cup of rice in plenty of warm water and then place two and one-half cups of boiling water in a saucepan and add the rice. Cook until the rice is soft and the water absorbed. Now place three ounces of chocolate, cut into fine pieces, in one quart of milk. Bring to a boil and then add 198 MODERN COOKING Three-quarters cup of Two teaspoons of vanilla sugar Two tablespoons of butter One-half teaspoon of The prepared rice cinnamon extract Mix well and then pour into a baking dish and bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. Stir frequently. PLUM PUDDING, ROMANY STYLE One cup of cooked oatmeal chopper One cup of seedless raisins Two teaspoons of One cup of dried peaches cinnamon put through food One teaspoon of allspice chopper One teaspoon of nutmeg One cup of peanuts put One cup of syrup through food chopper One egg One-quarter cup of citron One glass of jam or put through food apple jelly Mix and then pack into moulds, one-pound coffee can or tie it in a pudding cloth. Boil for two hours. BROWN BETTY Pare the apples and then slice thin. Now grease a pudding mould or a baking dish. Place a layer one inch deep of apples, then layer of bread crumbs. Repeat until the dish is full and then sprinkle each layer with brown sugar and cinnamon, as it is placed. Now pour over the dish sufficient thick, well-sweetened apple sauce to fill the baking dish two-thirds full. Bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. LEMON PUDDING Heat three-quarters cup of milk to the scalding point and then add One tablespoon of butter Five tablespoons of sugar Pour over one-half cup of fine bread crumbs and then cool, and add MODERN COOKING 199 Yolk of one egg Grated rind of one-quarter Juice of one-half lemon lemon One-quarter cup of water Mix thoroughly before adding to the scalded bread crumbs. Pour into a small baking dish and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Make a fruit whip of One-half glass of apple jelly White of one egg Beat until mixture will hold its shape. Pile on pudding and brown in the oven for five minutes. Set aside to cool. CRUMB COOKIES One cup of molasses One-half teaspoon of One-half cup of brown ginger sugar One-half teaspoon of Six tablespoons of allspice shortening One egg Two teaspoons of Five tablespoons of sour cinnamon milk Beat to mix and then add Two and one-half cups of coarse bread crumbs and suffi- cient flour to make a very stiff mixture Drop by the spoonful on well-greased baking sheet, three inches apart. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. CARAMEL PUDDING Make a caramel of One cup. of sugar Four tablespoons of water One tablespoon of butter Pour into a pudding dish and turn until the mixture thoroughly coats the dish. Now place in a mixing bowl Three cups of apple sauce Two cups of bread crumbs One cup of brown sugar One-half cup of nutmeg 200 MODERN COOKING Beat to mix and then pour into a baking dish, and bake in a slow oven for forty minutes, then turn out at once on a platter and serve with caramel sauce. RAISIN PUDDING Soak one-half cup of raisins in boiling water for one hour. Drain and then add two ounces of candied citron, and sufficient stale bread to make one cup of crumbs. Put all through the food chopper. Place in a bowl and add One cup of hrown sugar Grated rind of one-half One cup of flour lemon One tablespoon of baking Yolks of two eggs powder One cup of milk Juice of one lemon Three tablespoons of shortening Beat to thoroughly mix and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into well-greased and floured one-quart mould. Place the mould deep in a pan containing sufficient boiling water to cover the mould two-thirds of its depth. Place in the oven and bake for fifty minutes in a moderate oven. Unmould and serve with Saboyon sauce. PUMPKIN PUDDING Place in a bowl Eleven and one-half cups One teaspoon melted butter of steamed pumpkin One teaspoon of cinnamon drained dry One-half teaspoon of One cup of milk " nutmeg Yolk of one egg Two teaspoons of vanilla One-half cup of sugar Beat thoroughly to mix and then pour into well-greased' custard cups. Set cups in baking pan and pour in suffi- cient boiling water to half fill the pan. Bake in a MODERN COOKING 201 moderate oven for forty-five minutes and then serve cold. Garnish with fruit whip or jelly. SOUP Soup, unless it is a thick cream or puree, contains little food value. Rather, it is stimulating to the stomach and causes a free flow of the digestive juices. Thus the food taken in after the soup has stimulated the stomach is quickly absorbed and thus gives the body immediate nourishment without distressing the digestion. The French lay great stress upon two essentials in making soup successfully. First, it must not go below the boiling point, just a gentle bubbling, and, second, after once started, no water should be added. In making soup always use cold water to start with. Do not use salt or any seasoning, and heat slowly, keeping the pot closely covered. Protein, which is the chief constituent of meat, is drawn into the liquid, making it very nutritious. Rapid boiling destroys the fine aroma and volatile oils, which escape in the steam. Soups are divided into three classes : First, stock ; second, cream ; third, fruit soups. Soups made from meat and bone are called stock; those without stock are called cream, such as cream vege- table, clam and oyster soups, and, lastly, those made from meat and bones, cooked by long and slow boiling, which dissolves the soluble elements of the meat and bones into the water and makes a very rich soup. THE STOCK POT This should be a deep pot or kettle with a tight-fitting lid. This is important, so that none of the steam may be lost by evaporation. The steam contains the aroma or fine volatile oil and essentials which pass into the air. In a fairly large family little meat need be purchased for the stock pot if the housewife insists that all portions. 202 MODERN COOKING of bone and trimming be sent with the purchased meat. The French women look with horror on the American women leaving all the scrap and trimming to the butcher. TO MAKE THE STOCK A soup bone from the shin beef, which is full of nutri- ment, will have nearly one-half pound of meat on it. Take one pound of the scrag end of the neck of veal and four quarts of water. Wash the bones and add the cold water and bring slowly to a boil. Skim and then cover closely and cook for four hours. By this time the meat will have fallen from the bones. Strain and set aside to cool. Let stand overnight. This is best. Then remove all fat from the top. This stock is the basis of all soups, sauces and gravies. It is rich in mineral matter and gelatine. The meat can be taken from the bones and run through the food chopper and used for meat loaf, croquettes and meat biscuits or sausage, and it will make mighty tasty hash when combined with po- tatoes and onions for breakfast. You now have a delicious and nutritious broth, without seasoning of any kind, which will keep in cold weather four or five days. In warm weather it must be returned every second day to the pot, brought to a boil and skimmed and then left to cool and finally put in the ice box. Small portions of meat, ham, any trimming and bones that have accumulated may be added. Chicken feet, scalded in boiling water to loosen the outer skin, which must be peeled off, together with the giblets of fowl, may be added to the stock pot. Seasoning and the addition of vegetables cause it to sour. Many varieties of soup are possible with the use of this stock. OYSTER GUMBO Mince two medium-sized onicms very fine and then place in a saucepan and add MODERN COOKING 203 One pint of hot water One pint of oyster liquid One pint of milk Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now add One-half cup of flour dissolved in One-half cup of milk Stir well until it reaches the boiling point, and then add Twenty-five oysters One tablespoon of file (gumbo powder) One ounce of butter Cook for five minutes and then pour the gumbo into a tureen and add three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley. File, or gumbo powder, is made by the Choctaw Indians from young sassafras leaves. The Indians gather the leaves, spread them upon the bark to dry and then grind them into a fine powder, put it through a fine sieve and then pack it into pouches or jars. It is sold in the French markets in New Orleans and in all high- class importing groceries. The Indians use the sassafras both medicinally and in cookery, and the Creoles quickly discovered this and appreciated it when making their famous gumbo or file. VEGETABLE SOUP One pint of stock, one cup of tomato pulp, made by scalding the peeling of tomatoes, or the canned tomatoes, may be used, and One-half cup of diced One-half carrot cut in dice potatoes One tablespoon of parsley One-half cup of mixed Two tablespoons of flour vegetables ; cabbage. Salt and pepper to taste turnips and peas, may be Portion of bunch of added potherbs Take a bunch of potherbs, divide into small bunches and tie each with a string and then use one of these in 204 MODERN COOKING the vegetable soup. Put the remainder of the herbs in a fruit jar until needed again. Put the herbs in the stock, add the tomatoes and let simmer. Cook the vegetables in one pint of water until tender and then add water and all to the stock and add the seasoning and flour, mixed with a little cold water, and cook for five minutes. TO MAKE NOODLES One egg One tablespoon of water One-half teaspoon of salt Beat together until well mixed and then add sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Knead until elastic — about two minutes — and then roll out on a pastry board until as thin as paper, dusting the board lightly with flour to prevent sticking. Permit it to stand for fifteen minutes to dry and then cut into strings, thick and thin. Do this by rolling up loosely, like a jelly roll, and then cut. Lay on a dish to dry. When thoroughly dry they may be kept in a fruit jar. Part of the paste may be stamped with small vegetable cutters and cooked in the soup same as the noodles. Vegetables cut in fancy shapes, macaroni cut in small rings, hard-boiled eggs in slices, cheese balls, slices of lemon, also rice and barley, may be added to the soup. To make brown coloring: One-half cup of sugar cooked ten minutes in an iron pan until burned black; then add one-half cupful of water. Let come to a boil and then strain and bottle for use. The principal points to keep in mind when making soup are : First, draw out all of the juice and soluble flavors into the water. Second, retain that which we have drawn out by using a pot with a tight-fitting lid. MODERN COOKING 205 Third, use cold water with which to extract meat juices and flavors. Fourth, long, slow cooking. Fifth, flavoring and vegetables added after making stock prevent its souring quickly. Sixth, do not use stock pot for other than it is intended. Care and accurate judgment and measuring will give successful results. If most of the work is done in the morning while at- tending to the kitchen duties, the stock-making will take little of your time. Delicious gravies may be made by using stock instead of water. CLEAR SOUP Use two tablespoons of fat and fry one onion until brown. Add two tablespoons of flour and brown well and then pour in one pint of stock and cook for five minutes, and then add seasoning, salt and pepper to taste. Strain into a soup tureen and sprinkle with one tablespoon of finely chopped parsley. Serve with bread cut in finger lengths and toasted. CELERY PUREE Use one pint of diced celery and cook in one cup of cold water until tender and then put through a sieve and add One cup of stock Salt and pepper One cup of milk One tablespoon of chopped Two tablespoons of flour parsley and serve mixed with a little milk Seasoning To the clear soup may be added macaroni, noodles or any vegetables. This is a good way to use left-over portions of vegetables that are too small to serve alone. FISH SOUP Use six slices of cod, hake or flounder. Mince four 206 MODERN COOKING onions very fine and then place the onions in a saucepan with Three tablespoons of cooking oil Cook until tender, but not brown; then add One cup of tomatoes One hunch of potherbs rubbed through a fine Three pints of water sieve Bring to a boil and cook slowly for twenty minutes and then add the fish. Cook gently for thirty minutes and then add Six tablespoons of flour One teaspoon of paprika dissolved in Juice of one lemon One-half cup of water Grated rind of one-quarter One and one-half teaspoons lemon of salt Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now lift the fish on slices of nicely toasted bread and strain over this the soup. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and one tablespoon of grated cheese. FISH SOUPS The bouillabaisse of France and New Orleans is most delectable and may well be served upon our tables fre- quently. The French and our Southern cooking, espe- cially the Creoles, excel in the preparation of delicious cream soups and purees. They are made entirely from vegetables. These good folk have preserved an old-world custom; namely, the daily plate of soup. The Creoles have introduced a new variety of their own called gumbo. Vegetables and milk are the basis for these soups. The vegetables are cooked in water and then rubbed through a sieve. Equal parts of milk are added and then thickened slightly and seasoned. When it is desired to give additional food value, eggs may be added. , MODERN COOKING 207 OYSTER BROTH Drain twenty-four oysters, saving the liquid. Wash and carefully look over the oysters to free from bits of shell. Chop fine and place in saucepan and measure the oyster liquid, adding sufficient water to make two cups. Simmer slowly for fifteen minutes. Let boil up once. Strain, season to taste with salt, pepper and then the broth is ready to serve. Equally good hot or cold. PUREE OF OYSTER Prepare two cups of thin cream sauce and add Twenty-five oysters. One and one-half cups of chopped fine oyster liquid One tablespoon of grated onion Simmer slowly for twenty minutes and then bring to a scalding point. Strain, season to taste with salt and pepper, adding two tablespoons of finely minced parsley. Clams may be used to replace the oysters. TO PREPARE A STEW Wash and look over the twenty-five stewing oysters carefully to free them from bits of shell. Place in small stewing pan and heat until the edges begin to curl. Then add Three cups of scalding milk One-half teaspoon of Two tablespoons of butter paprika One teaspoon of salt Let the mixture come to the scalding point and then remove at once and serve. Clams may be used to replace the oysters. FISH SOUP One red beet ' Six branches of parsley Three medium-sized onions One and one-half cups One carrot of finely chopped Three leeks cabbage 208 MODERN COOKING Chop fine and then place in a saucepan and add two cups of cold water. Cook gently until the vegetables are very soft and then add Three cups of fish stock Stock is made by cooking the head, fins and bones of one and one-half pounds of fish. Season with Two teaspoons of salt Juice of one-half lemon One teaspoon of paprika Two tablespoons of butter Simmer slowly for fifteen minutes and then place the prepared fish in a tureen and pour over the broth. Sprinkle with paprika and finely chopped parsley and then serve at once. DEVILED CRABS Make a cream sauce by placing in a saucepan One cup of milk Five level tablespoons of flour Stir with a wire spoon or fork until the flour is dis- solved in the milk and then bring to a boil. Stir con- stantly and cook for five minutes after it reaches the boiling point. Then add One cup of crab meat One tablespoon of One tablespoon of grated Worcestshire sauce onion One and one-half teaspoons One tablespoon of finely of salt minced parsley One teaspoon of paprika One-half teaspoon of mustard Mix thoroughly and then fill into the crab shells, filling the shell slightly above the level. Dust lightly with flour and then brush with beaten egg and cover with fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. The crabs may be prepared earlier in the day and then reheated for serving. MODERN COOKING 209 CELERY SOUP Wash and thoroughly cleanse the celery and then chop fine. Place one pint of finely chopped celery in a sauce- pan and add three cups of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until the celery is very soft. Rub through a fine sieve and then measure, and add One cup of milk Two tablespoons of flour to every cup of the celery puree. Dissolve the flour in cold milk and then add the celery puree. Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Season, adding one teaspoon of butter for flavoring. A fagot of soup herbs may be added to the celery if desired. CREAM SOUPS Cream soups are a combination of vegetables, puree and milk. Almost all of the green vegetables will make delicious soups. Clean the vegetables well and then cut into small pieces. Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook slowly until tender and then mash well ; then rub through a fine sieve. Use this vegetable stock with equal parts of milk to make the soup. Carrots, pe?.s, tomatoes, turnips, corn, beans, celery, lettuce, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, asparagus, all these afford a splendid variety. Allow one level tablespoon of flour for thickening and dissolve the flour in cold water before adding. Bring quickly to a boil and then season. Add two tablespoons of butter for flavoring and then serve. French, Swiss and Italians serve grated cheese and paprika with all cream soups. CREAM OF ONION Place two cups of thinly sliced onions in a saucepan and add one cup of cold water. Cook until soft and then rub through a fine sieve. Measure and return to the 210 MODERN COOKING saucepan, and add one cup of milk for every cup of onion puree and two level tablespoons of flour to every cup of milk. Stir to dissolve the flour, then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Season, using salt and white pepper. Serve, then add one tablespoon of butter to every quart of cream soup. Croutons or toasted strips of bread make a delicious accompaniment to cream soups. How to prepare croutons : Cut slices of bread into one- inch blocks and place in a baking sheet and bake until golden brown. Place in a tin box or jar and seal. When ready to use just reheat to crisp and then serve. Stale bread may be used for this purpose. CREAM OF TOMATO Place two cups of stewed tomatoes in a saucepan and add One onion, chopped fine One fagot of soup herbs Pinch of cloves Cook gently for ten minutes and then run through a fine sieve. Now place in a saucepan Two cups of milk Five tablespoons of cornstarch Stir until dissolved and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add to prepared tomato, beating well to thoroughly mix. Now add One teaspoon of salt pepper One-half teaspoon of One tablespoon of butter The making of the cream sauce and then adding the prepared tomato prevents curdling. TOMATO PUREE One pint of stewed One carrot cut in dice tomatoes One fagot of soup herbs Two onions chopped fine One pint of water MODERN COOKING 211 Cook slowly until the vegetables are soft, rub through a sieve and then dissolve Four tablespoons of corn- Five tablespoons of cold starch in water Add to the tomato sauce mixture with Two tablespoons of butter One-half teaspoon of One and one-half teaspoons pepper of salt Cook slowly for ten minutes VEGETABLE PUREE Pare and cut in dice Six medium-sized turnips Four medium-sized carrots Six medium-sized onions Chop fine One small head of cabbage One bunch of potherbs Four branches of celery One teaspoon of thyme Place in a saucepan and add seven pints of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for two hours. Mash through a fine sieve and then return to the kettle and add One-half cup of flour One teaspoon of pepper dissolved in Two well-beaten eggs One cup of milk Butter, size of large walnut One and one-half table- or one ounce spoons of salt Stir to thoroughly blend and then add one-quarter cup of finely chopped parsley. Serve with toast. CABBAGE SOUP Two quarts of water One and one-quarter Three onions, chopped fine pounds of soup meat. One fagot of soup herbs with bone in it Two slices of salt pork, cut Two and one^half cups of into dice finely shredded cabbage 212 MODERN COOKING Place in a saucepan and cook slowly for one and three-quarter hours. Now add two tablespoons of flour, dissolved in one-quarter cup of water, and season with One tablespoon of salt _ One teaspoon of pepper One-half teaspoon of thyme CREAM OF CUCUMBER Pare and grate one large cucumber, and then place in a saucepan and add One cup of cold water One tablespoon of grated onion Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Rub through a fine sieve and add Four cups of milk Six tablespoons of flour Stir to dissolve the flour, and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add One teaspoon of salt One-quarter green pepper, One-half teaspoon of chopped fine paprika One tablespoon of butter Beat hard to mix. CREAM OF CORN, SUPREME Use a corn scraper and then score and scrape the pulp from four large ears of corn, and rub through a sieve into a saucepan. Now add Four cups of milk One tablespoon of grated Six tablespoons of flour onion Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Season to taste and add One tablespoon of butter One tablespoon of finely minced parsley FRUITS BAKED PRUNES Wash and soak the prunes and then place in a casserole dish and add one-half pound of fruit. MODERN COOKING 213 Paring of lemon rind sugar and just barely Juice of one-half lemon enough of water to cover Four tablespoons of brown Bake for thirty minutes. BAKED PEARS Select pears of uniform size and then pare and cut in half. Place in a baking dish and add One-half cup of syrup One-quarter teaspoon of One-half cup of water nutmeg Bake until pears are tender. Baste frequently with the syrup. PEAR TARTS Line pie tins or tart pans with plain pastry. Fill with stewed pears and ^hen dust with cinnamon and bake in a slow oven. Top with fruit whip. PEAR BREAD PUDDING Place a layer of broken stale bread in the bottom of a well-greased pudding pan and then a layer of thinly sliced pears. Season each layer of bread and pears slightly with nutmeg and cinnamon. When the dish is full pour over One cup of syrup sugar One-half cup of brown One cup of water Stir until sugar is dissolved and then bake in a slow oven for one hour. Serve with custard sauce. PEAR SAUCE Pare and then cover with just enough water to cook. Cook until tender and then mash and put through a fine sieve or colander. Sweeten to taste, adding Juice of one lemon One tablespoon of either cinnamon or nutmeg to each quart of the pear sauce. This may be used and served 214 MODERN COOKING with roast duck, chicken, or as a side dish, and in pear shortcake and as a spread for bread and hot cakes. BAKED PEARS AND CRANBERRIES Pare eight pears and then cut in half, removing stems and seeds. Place in a baking dish with the cut side up. Sort over and wash one cup of cranberries and then add the berries to the pears and One-half cup of raisins One cup of water One cup of syrup One-quarter teaspoon of One-half cup of brown nutmeg sugar Bake in a slow oven until the pears are soft. Note. — ^This dish may be cooked upon the top of the stove in a saucepan. DRIED FRUIT Oranges and grapefruit are high-priced and the dried fruits may be substituted to advantage. If these fruits are nicely prepared, the family will hardly be able to dis- tinguish between them and the fresh fruit. Frequently the dried fruits are so prepared that they are anything but inviting. Much will depend upon the selection of these fruits. Purchase only the best grade. This fruit should be bright and waxy and not too dry. Soak for fifteen minutes in warm water ; this loosens the dirt before washing. Now wash in plenty of water. Cover with water and allow to stand until the fruit has plumped out ; each piece of fruit will only absorb just the amount of moisture as it originally contained. This will require from six to twelve hours, depending entirely upon the dryness of the fruit. Be sure that the water covers the fruit at least one inch. Now, when the fruit is ready, add sugar to sweeten and place in the stove to cook. The slower this fruit is cooked the better. Re- member that hard, rapid cooking not only spoils dried fruits, but fresh fruit as well. MODERN COOKING 216 When cooked tender, drain the liquid from the fruit and measure. Allow one-half cup of sugar to every three cups of juice. Place this juice and the sugar in a sep- arate saucepan and boil until thick; then pour over the fruit. Dried fruits prepared this way will be found to be de- licious. Apricots will require very little cooking, so drain them free from the liquid in which they are soaked and add the sugar. Boil the syrup until thick and then pour over the apricots and cook gently for ten minutes. Remove the skins from peaches, after soaking them, and before cooking add a little piece of thin orange peel for flavor. To prepare dried pears soak them for twelve hours and then place in a casserole dish and add to one-half pound of fruit One cup of brown sugar Juice of one lemon One cup of raisins Cover the casserole dish and bake slowly. STEWED PEARS Three-quarters cup of Six cloves syrup Piece of cinnamon and One-half cup of water piece of lemon peel Peel and then cook slowly until tender, chill and serve. CHICKEN AND GREEN PEPPER SANDWICHES Remove the seeds from two green peppers and add one small onion and chop very fine. Mince one cup of chicken meat fine and add to the green peppers and onions and then season with One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of One-quarter teaspoon of paprika mustard Two tablespoons of melted butter Mix well and then spread between thin slices of but- tered bread. 216 MODERN COOKING BROILED CHICKEN, VIRGINIA STYLE Select a plump broiler, weighing from one and a half to two pounds. Singe and then split with a sharp knife down the back. Draw. Remove the head and feet and then wash and parboil for eight minutes. Now flatten well with a rolling pin. Rub with shortening and broil for ten minutes. Garnish with bacon. Bacon or ham fat will give the bird a delicious flavor. CHICKEN A LA KING Cut the breast of cooked chicken into one-inch pieces and then place one and a half cups of thick sauce in a saucepan and add one cup of mushrooms that have been peeled and cut in pieces and then parboiled for six minutes in boiling water, and also One green pepper, diced fine and parboiled Add Yolks of two eggs One and one-half tea- Juice of one-half lemon spoons of salt One-quarter teaspoon of One teaspoon of paprika mustard in the cream sauce. Also add the prepared chicken, the mushrooms and then green pepper. Heat until the boil- ing point is reached and then simmer slowly for ten minutes and serve on toast. BREAST OF GUINEA HEN, TERRAPIN STYLE Cut the breasts of two cooked guinea hens into one- inch blocks and place in a chafing dish and add Three cups of thick cream One teaspoon of paprika sauce One large onion chopped One well-beaten egg very fine One-half teaspoon of Three tablespoons of finely mustard chopped parsley One teaspoon of salt Juice of one large lemon Grated rind of one-half lemon MODERN COOKING 217 Stir to mix thoroughly and add the prepared breasts of the guinea hens and heat slowly until very hot. Serve on toasted waffles. GUINEA HEN— POT PIE Draw and singe the pair of guinea hens, removing the wings, thighs and legs and leaving the breast whole. Break the back of the carcass and then place in a deep saucepan and add seven cups of boiling water and steam slowly until tender. Add A piece of carrot One small onion One branch of celery for flavoring and then lift and set the thighs and breast aside for future use. Pick the meat from the backs of the carcass and add to two and one-half cups of the stock. Season and thicken slightly. Now place the legs and wings in a casserole dish and add One cup of peas The prepared gravy Pour boiled onions Cover with a crust of plain pastry and bake in a mod- erate oven for thirty minutes. FRICASSEE CHICKEN Draw and singe and cut the chicken. Wash and place in a deep saucepan and cover with boiling water. Bring to a boil and add One onion One small carrot Two branches of celery Cook slowly until tender and then thicken the gravy. Dumplings may be added if desired. ROAST CHICKEN, SPLIT STYLE Prepare the chicken as for roasting. Do not fill. Rub well with shortening and then pat in plenty of flour. Place in a roasting pan and roast until tender ; baste fre- quently with hot water. 218 MODERN COOKING ROAST DUCK Singe and draw the duck and then remove the neck and add to the giblets and cook until tender. Wash and then drain the duck. Now prepare a filling by soaking sufficient stale bread in cold water. When pressed dry it will measure two and one-half cups. Rub through a sieve. Now place five tablespoons of shortening in a saucepan and add One cup of chopped onion The prepared bread One green pepper, chopped Three tablespoons of finely fine chopped parsley One level teaspoon of thyme Cook slowly, turning frequently until the onions are tender, adding more shortening if necessary to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan. Then season with salt and pepper. Cook and then fill into the duck. Dust with flour and then roast in a moderate oven, allowing thirty minutes for the duck to start cooking and twenty minutes to the pound. MACARONI Macaroni is to the Italian cook the starchy content of the meal; just as the Irish and sweet potato are our com- mon starchy foods. The thrifty Italian and French housewives have found that by addition of meat, cheese and eggs for flavoring, they can serve their families sub- stantial and attractive foods at a minimum cost. The average American consumer of pastes and maca- roni has no idea of the number of styles or forms — of which there are over a hundred — into which this wheat product is made. They range from the lasagnes, which are the short, flat pieces one and two inches wide, cut and frequently moulded by hand, to the Adeline, which are the long, thin threads, the finest of which are many times smaller than vermicelli. Between these two extremes MODERN COOKING 219 there is a great variety, which includes the alphabet and many fancy designs. MACARONI MILIEUSE Wipe with damp cloth and cut in one-inch blocks one pound of shin beef. Roll in flour and brown quickly in hot fat. Place in a deep saucepan and add Three pints of cold water Two onions cut fine One medium-sized carrot cut in dice Bring to a boil and cook gently until the meat is tender. Now add One-half cup of tomato One and one-half tea- aux fine herbes spoons of paprika Two teaspoons of salt Six ounces of prepared macaroni Bring this mixture to a boil and then cook until the macaroni is well heated. Pour on a large platter and gar- nish with finely chopped parsley. TO PREPARE MACARONI The macaroni may be broken into pieces one and one- half inches long, or it may be cooked whole. In all re- cipes the macaroni must first be prepared as follows : Grease the bottom of a deep saucepan and then add two quarts of boiling water. Let boil for two minutes and then add the macaroni. Stir for a few minutes and then cook for fifteen minutes. Turn into a colander and drain. Then blanch under the running cold water for three minutes. Let drain. It is now ready to use in any number of ways. Greasing the saucepan prevents the macaroni from sticking to the bottom, while it is cooking. The Italian prepares a seasoning as follows : Wash two leeks Two green or red peppers Six branches of parsley Four branches of celery Pare Six onions Tiny bit of garlic 220 MODERN COOKING Place in a chopping bowl and chop very fine. Now place in one-half cup of vegetable cooking oil in a sauce- pan and add the vegetables. Cook slowly until soft and then add one small can of tomato paste. Blend well and then pour in a bowl or jar and set in a cool place. This mixture will keep in the refrigerator or in a cool place for one week in summer time and from ten to twelve days in winter. This mixture is called tomato aux fine herbes. Small portions of meat that would be insufficient to serve alone can be utilized in making these dishes. When making gravy, prepare enough so that a cup or more may be set aside to use in the macaroni dishes. Bones, gristle and meat joints left on the serving platter may all be made into stock, from which the various gravies can be made. The ItaHan cook uses a small piece of meat for flavoring, usually chopping it in small pieces. MACARONI CUSTARD Place in a saucepan Two cups of milk Six level tablespoons of One and one-half cups of cornstarch water Dissolve the starch in the water and add the milk. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Remove from the fire and add Yolks of two eggs One cup of sugar One and one-half teaspoons of vanilla Beat to mix and then pour over six ounces of maca- roni prepared as given in the method for preparation. Add one-half cup of raisins and then bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Place the whites of two eggs in a bowl and add one glass of jelly. Beat until the mixture holds its shape; then pile on top of pudding. MODERN COOKING 221 MACARONI AU GRATIN Cook one-half pound of macaroni as given in the method of preparing. Place in a baking dish and then make three cups of cream sauce, using One and one-half cups of One and one-half cups of milk clear stock One-half cup of flour Blend well and then pour over the macaroni. Sprinkle the top with fine bread crumbs and grated cheese and bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. POTATOES This nutritious tuber is said to have saved the Irish people from famine, and it is fitting that this variety of potato should bear that name. The potato was unknown to Europe before the venturesome expedition of the fif- teenth century to the Americas, where it was found to be used freely by the natives of both continents. Frequently it has been said that the potato competes with bread as the staff of life, because its use is almost universal. There are more than thirty-five varieties of potato and although it is affected by soil and climate, the sandy soil necessary for its successful growth is found in almost every country. The housewife should understand its food value. The average analysis of the white potato is as follows : Sixty-two per cent, water, 2 per cent, protein, 1 per cent, fat, 4 per cent, carbohydrates (starch and sugar), 20 per cent, waste and 1 per cent, mineral ash. The proportion of water found in the potato depends largely upon the soil in which it is grown. The small protein content is offset by its large carbohydrates (starch and sugar) content. POTATO CAKES Cook three large potatoes and then peel and mash fine. 222 MODERN COOKING Measure and place two cups of mashed potatoes in a mix- ing bowl and add Two cups of flour powder One teaspoon of salt One egg Four teaspoons of baking Four tablespoons of milk Mix to a smooth dough and then roll out one-half inch thick and cut and brush the tops with milk. Bake in a hot oven for eighteen minutes. POTOATO DISHES One of the best forms of serving this tuber is to roast the potato in the ashes. Few will realize how delicious it can be. Wrap the potato in wax paper and then cover with coals and roast about one hour. Next to this method comes the baked potato. Wash and dry medium-sized potatoes and then rub well with shortening and place in the oven and bake for thirty-five minutes for small potatoes and fifty minutes to one hour for large ones. Greasing the potato well before baking prevents a hard crust from forming and permits the en- tire contents of the mealy sack to be eaten. Boiling potatoes in their jackets causes the potato to lose about 2 per cent, of its nutritive value, while peeling before cooking causes a loss of 14 per cent. If necessary to peel, use a sharp knife and remove the very thinnest portion of the skin; scraping new potatoes is better than peeling them. O'BRIEN POTATOES Pare and then cut in thin slices five potatoes that have been boiled in their jackets. Mince sufficient onions, fine, to measure three-quarters of a cup. Chop fine two green peppers. Parboil onions and peppers until tender and then drain well. Now heat three tablespoons of shorten- ing in a frying pan until very hot and then add the pota- toes and let brown. Fold over and brown again. Keep turning over until the potatoes are well browned and then MODERN COOKING 223 add the prepared onions and peppers. Cook slowly for five minutes and then turn on a hot platter and garnish with finely chopped parsley. BOILED POTATOES To cook potatoes, either in jackets or pared: Cover with boiling water, cook until tender. Season ; now cover closely with clean cloth to absorb moisture and the potato will be mealy. GRILLED POTATOES Wash and pare large old potatoes and then cut into thin slices, cutting the full width of the potato. This means that you are to cut a thin slice of raw potato that will cover your hand. Place on a shallow baking dish and brush with shortening. Place in the broiler and broil until nicely browned, then place in the oven for five minutes. MOUNTAIN BUTTERMILK RYE MUFFINS Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of Four tablespoons of buttermilk shortening One teaspoon of baking Six tablespoons of syrup soda One egg Beat to mix and then add Two and one-half cups of One teaspoon of baking rye flour powder Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into well-greased and floured muffin pans, and bake for thirty minutes in a moderate oven. When cold the muffins that are left over may be split and toasted and then spread with mountain sweet-spiced jam. 224 MODERN COOKING IF NECESSARY TO KEEP MEAT THREE OR FOUR DAYS Much sickness that is described as ptomaine poisoning is usually caused by carelessness. If for any reason meat must be kept several days after it is purchased, it may be cared for in the following manner : Place Three-quarters cup of salt in a saucepan And add Three and one-half cups of One-half teaspoon of water saltpeter One bay leaf Bring to a boil and cool. Place the meat in a china bowl or a wooden bucket and pour the brine over it. Now place a plate on top of the meat and weigh down with an old flatiron and heavy stone. Turn the meat every other day. This meat will keep for one week. This method is suitable for mutton, beef or pork. For lamb or chicken place in a saucepan and add One-half carrot One onion Sufficient boiling water to partially cover same Cook, keeping pan closely covered, for ten minutes to the pound. Cool before placing in the ice box. If it is necessary to keep the meat only until the next day, mince fine two onions and add Four tablespoons of salt One tablespoon of pepper Mix thoroughly and then rub the meat thoroughly with this mixture. Meat may be kept in the ordinary ice box that holds seventy-five pounds of ice for two days in the hottest weather in the following manner : Wipe the meat with a dry cloth and cover with a wax or parchment paper, and then hang from a hook in the lower part of MODERN COOKING 225 the refrigerator, directly under the ice chamber if pos- sible. The hooks are shaped like the letter S, sharply pointed at both ends and they may be purchased or made by any hardware dealer. Meat allowed to lie on a platter soon loses its nutritious qualities with the escaping of the juices. FILLET OF BEEF Have the butcher trim the fillet into shape and then lard it with salt pork. Dust lightly with flour and then place on a rack in the roasting pan and place in a hot oven, basting every ten minutes. Cook, allowing the meat one-half hour to become thoroughly heated and to start cooking ; then allow twelve minutes for every pound. This cut is the choicest of the entire cattle and is without a single ounce of waste. It is delicious either hot or cold. WELSH CHEESE PUDDING Five ounces of grated One teaspoon of paprika cheese One tablespoon of One cup of bread crumbs Worcestershire sauce One cup of flour One tablespoon of baking One and one-half tea- powder spoons of salt Four tablespoons of grated One teaspoon of white onion pepper One egg One cup of milk Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour in moulds or prepared pudding cloth and boil for one and three- quarters hours. Serve either hot or cold. To serve hot, use the following sauce : Place in a saucepan One cup of milk Two tablespoons of cornstarch Dissolve the starch in the milk and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then add 226 MODERN COOKING One well-beaten egg Two teaspoons of paprika One teaspoon of salt Juice of one-half lemon Beat hard to mix and then serve. This dish will re- place meat and be sufficient for a family of four or five. MEAL PUDDING Place one quart of milk in a saucepan and bring to a boil; then add three-quarters cup of fine cornmeal. Stir until thick, and cook slowly for ten minutes and then add One cup of sweet spiced One-half cup of sugar jam One-half teaspoon of One cup of syrup nutmeg Beat to mix and then pour into a baking pan and bake slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Cool and then serve with plain cream. HOW TO COOK CORN BEEF Wash the beef in cold water and then place in a sauce- pan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and turn into a colander, and let cold water run on the meat. Place a saucepan on the stove and fill with boiling water, and add One carrot, cut in dice One bay leaf and Two onions, with one clove The meat stuck in each onion Bring to a boil and cook slowly, allowing the meat to cook thirty minutes to start and then twenty minutes to the pound, gross weight. Then remove the saucepan from the fire when the meat is cooked and allow the meat to cool in the liquid, with the lid removed. When cool, remove and place at once in the ice box. Serve cold. Mutton may be corned like beef. The shoulder makes a delicious economical cut. Have the butcher bone the meat, but do not roll. Put in a pickle for six days. Re- move and wash and then tie securely, and cook in the same manner as for corned beef. MODERN COOKING 227 OLD PHILADELPHIA STEWED KIDNEY Wash and dry the kidney and cut into inch pieces ; put on to boil in a pot of cold water ; as soon as boiling point is reached, remove from the fire, turn in colander and drain, rinse in cold water and dry. Dtist jightly with flour; put three tablespoons of shortening in a pot; when hot toss in the kidney, browning carefully; then add two cups of water, which must be boiling, and cook until the kidney is tender. Then season with salt and pepper, five tablespoons of catsup, three tablespoons of vinegar; add one tablespoon each of grated onion and fine chopped parsley. Serve on toast for breakfast. MEAT PUDDINGS Put sufficient cold meat through the chopper to meas- ure three-quarters of a cup. Place in a mixing bowl and add One cup of cold boiled rice Two teaspoons of garlic One small onion, grated vinegar One green pepper, chopped One-half teaspoon of fine thyme Two teaspoons of salt One egg One teaspoon of paprika Five tablespoons of cold stock, water or gravy Mix thoroughly and then grease and flour the custard cups and fill a little better than just one-half full. Spread the top smoothly and place in a pan containing water, and then bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. Un- mould and cover with either cream or brown sauce. CORN PUDDING Place in a mixing bowl One can of crushed corn One onion, grated One cup of prepared bread Four tablespoons of finely Two eggs minced parsley One-half cup of milk Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika 228 MODERN COOKING Mix well and then pour in the prepared custard cups. Set cups in a pan of warm water and bake for thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven. To prepare the bread : Soak the stale bread in hot water and place in cloth and squeeze dry. To prepare the cups : Grease well and then dust with bread crumbs. SALT CHOWDER Mince fine four ounces of salt pork or bacon. Place in a deep kettle and add One cup of chopped onions One cup of chopped One-half cup of chopped tomatoes sweet red peppers Cook slowly for ten minutes and then add one pound of fish, bones and skin removed, fish cut in one-inch blocks. Six large clams cut in pieces Two cups of water Cover closely and then boil for twenty minutes. Now add One teaspoon of sweet One cup of cooked lima marjoram beans One-quarter teaspoon of One-half cup finely thyme chopped parsley Two and one-half cups of Two tablespoons of butter cream sauce One tablespoon of salt One cup of cooked peas One and one-half tea- spoons of pepper Heat until scalding and then serve. STEAMED SALT OYSTERS OR CLAMS Place the salt oysters or clams in a large dishpan and cover with plenty of cold water. Scrub clean with a stiff MODERN COOKING 229 brush. Now place a colander in a deep saucepan and add one quart of boiling water. Fill the colander with salt oysters or clams and steam until they open their mouths. Place one dozen of the steamed salt oysters or clams in a deep soup plate and serve with a small saucer of melted butter. Serve a small cup of salt oyster or clam liquid, left in the saucepan after steaming the bivalves, with them. CLAM FRITTERS— RED RIVER BOATHOUSE STYLE Mince one dozen large clams fine and then drain free of the liquid. Measure the liquid and add sufficient milk to measure one and one-half cups. Place in a bowl and add One egg One tablespoon of Two teaspoons of salt shortening One teaspoon of paprika One teaspoon of sugar Two tablespoons of grated The minced clams onion Two cups of sifted flour Four tablespoons of finely Four level teaspoons of chopped parsley baking powder Beat hard and then fry in very hot fat in shallow pan. DEVILED CLAMS Place in a saucepan One-half cup of clam juice One-half cup of milk Five tablespoons of flour Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now add Six clams minced fine One-quarter teaspoon of One tablespoon of grated mustard onion One-half teaspoon of Four tablespoons of finely paprika minced parsley One teaspoon of sait Six tablespoons of bread crumbs 230 MODERN COOKING Mix thoroughly and then fill into well-cleaned clam shells, rounding up on top. Dust with flour and then coat with beaten egg and then cover, patting well, with fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. CLAM FRITTERS Mince six clams fine and then place in a bowl and add sufficient milk to the clam juice to make one and one-half cups. Pour over minced clams and add Two and one-quarter cups Two tablespoons of baking of flour powder (level) One and one-half tea- One tablespoon of grated spoons of salt onion One-half teaspoon of Three tablespoons of finely pepper minced parsley One well-beaten egg Beat to a smooth batter and then fry in deep fat, CLAM COCKTAIL Use four cherrystone clams for each service. Prepare a cocktail sauce as follows: One cup of canned Pinch of cloves tomatoes One-half teaspoon of One leek, chopped fine mustard One onion, chopped fine One-half cup of water Pinch of thyme Cook for fifteen minutes, cool and then rub through a sieve and add One and one-half tear One tablespoon of Worces- spoons of salt tershire sauce One teaspoon of paprika Mix and then divide into four portions. CLAMS Clams may be served and cooked in a manner similar to oysters. MODERN COOKING 231 BAKED HAM Place a four and one-half to five-pound cut from the butt end of the ham in the fireless cooker overnight. In the morning remove the skin and then pat into the fat part of the ham Five tablespoons of brown Three-quarters teaspoon of sugar allspice One teaspoon of cinnamon Place in a hot oven and bake for forty minutes. Baste every ten minutes with Six tablespoons of vinegar Three-quarters tablespoon of boiling water Use the liqtiid in the pan, after baking the ham for making gravy, by browning three tablespoons of flour, then adding the liquid left in the pan and sufficient boil- ing water to make one and one-quarter cups of gravy. Season. HAM LOAF Chop the left-over ham very fine. Measure and add to one and one-half cups One and one-half cups of One-half cup of bread cold cooked oatmeal crumbs Two onions, grated One cup of cream sauce One tectspoon of paprika One tablespoon of Worces- tershire sauce Mix and then pour into well-greased loaf-shaped pan and then place this pan in a larger one containing warm water. Bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with hot tomato sauce. ENGLISH HAM PIE Cut the remainder of the fresh baked ham into neat pieces, laying aside all the small bits. Pare and cut in 232 MODERN COOKING dice sufficient potatoes to measure one quart. Chop fine sufiicient onions to measure one cupful. Place the pota- toes and onions in a saucepan and add sufficient boiling water to cover. Cook until tender and then drain. Now prepare a pastry as follows : Place Two cups of flour One teaspoon of salt Two teaspoons of baking powder in a bowl. Sift and then rub in six tablespoons of short- ening. Mix with one-half cup of ice-cold water. Roll out and then line a shallow pan with pastry. Place a layer of potatoes and onions and then a layer of the meat. Season well and cover the meat with a second layer of the potatoes. Season and then add two cups of highly seasoned gravy. Place top crust in position and fasten the edges tightly by pinching together firmly. Brush the pastry with cold water and then bake one hour in a slow oven. CHEESE LOAF Three cups of fine bread One large onion, minced crumbs fine One and one-half cups of One and one-half tea- cottage cheese spoons of salt One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of paprika very thick cream sauce One teaspoon of Worces- tershire sauce Mix thoroughly and then mould into shape. Pack into well-greased pan and set this pan in a large bake pan, with hot water to one-quarter of the depth of the bake pan. Bake in a moderate oven for fifty minutes. BARBECUE OF BOILED HAM Cut cold boiled ham into very thin slices and then place in a chafing dish and add MODERN COOKING 233 One-half glass of currant Four tablespoons of water jelly One-half teaspoon of Three tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce vinegar One-quarter teaspoon of paprika Heat until very hot, and then serve on toast. HEAD CHEESE Have the butcher clean and crack a young pig's head. Wash well and put on to cook in a pot large enough to have the water completely cover the head. Cook until the meat leaves the bones, skimming carefully. When cooked lift pot from the fire and take the meat from the pot. Chop fine, seasoning with salt and pepper and one table- spoon of poultry seasoning; mix thoroughly; put a clean cloth in the colander and put in the cheese; cover with another cloth; place a plate on top and weigh down with a flat-iron. ITALIAN CANAPE Mince fine One green pepper One leek One medium-sized onion Four branches of parsley One tomato Now place four tablespoons of shortening in a sauce- pan and add the vegetables. Cook slowly until tender and then add Five tablespoons of grated One teaspoon of salt cheese One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then spread on thin slices of toast. Garnish with sliced stuffed olives and dust with paprika. CHEESE SAUCE One cup of water One cup of milk Five level tablespoons of flour 234 MODERN COOKING Dissolve the flour in milk and water; bring to a boil; cook slowly for ten minutes ; now add One teaspoon of salt One well-beaten egg One teaspoon of pepper One-half cup grated cheese WELSH RAREBIT Cut one-half pound cheese very fine and then place in a saucepan and add One-half teaspoon of Two well-beaten eggs mustard One tablespoon of tVorces- One teaspoon of grated tershire sauce onion Stir until well creamed and free from lumps and then pour over slices of toast. Sprinkle lightly with paprika and serve. CHELSEA RABBIT Cut one pound of cheese into small bits and then place two tablespoons of butter in a chafing dish and add One onion, cut fine One tablespoon of Worces- One cup of thick tomato tershire sauce pulp, pressed through a One and one-half tea- fine sieve spoons of salt One and one-half teaspoons of paprika Cook until the onion is soft and then add cheese and stir until the cheese is melted and the mixture well blended. This will serve from six to eight persons. CHEESE CANAPE Place in a bowl Three tablespoons of One-quarter teaspoon of grated cheese salt One tablespoon of minced One-half teaspoon of parsley paprika One tablespoon of butter MODERN COOKING 23^ Mix to a paste and then spread on a thin triangle of bread. Dust lightly with paprika. TOMATO CANAPE Cut the tomatoes into very thin slices and then place on a plate and season with salt and pepper. Now place on a plate One tablespoon of butter One-quarter teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of paprika mustard One tablespoon of parsley Work to a nice smooth paste and then spread lightly over the tomatoes. Place on a small round cracker and garnish with a slice of hard-boiled egg. LA BRETE CANAPE Pick the fish from the backbone of a cooked mackerel, adding any left-over portions. There need be only about two tablespoons. Rub the fish through a sieve and add One small onion, grated One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of paprika mustard One and one-half table- spoons of butter Work to a paste and then spread on thin toasted strips of bread. BOHEMIAN RELISH Place on a bread and butter plate Two slices of salomi One tablespoon of prepared sausage scallion One radish One thin slice of tomato To prepare the scallions chop fine and add Six tablespoons of mayonnaise dressing One tablespoon of vinegar Mix thoroughly and then serve. 236 MODERN COOKING ITALIAN CANAPE Two branches of parsley One small onion One-half green pepper Mince fine and then cook until soft, taking care not to brown, in two tablespoons of salad oil. Now toast thin slices of cornbread slightly and spread with this mixture. Sprinkle with grated cheese and paprika. CANAPE A LA MODE Flake into bits two tablespoons of the mackerel left from breakfast, and then place on a dish and add Three tablespoons of One tablespoon of finely mayonnaise dressing chopped parsley One teaspoon of paprika Mix to a smooth paste an3 then spread on triangles of toasted bread. Garnish with parsley. FRIED PIGS FEET Have the butcher crack the feet; wash and put into a pot of boiling water to cook. Cook gently until they sep- arate easily from the joints; lift from the water, and set to cool. When cold divide in portions, dip in egg and cracker-dust and fry in boiling hot lard. Serve with cole- slaw or chow-chow. MINCEMEAT During the Xmas holidays open house was kept by the barons and knights of the early days. Great festivities and merrymaking was the order of the time. The great fete took place on Xmas day. On that day the mistresses of the households vied with each other in a friendly rivalry with their dishes of mutton pie. The mutton pie, as it was known in 1596, is the mince pie of to-day. It was also known by the name of Xmas pie or shredds. In Herrick's time it was considered vitally important to put an armed guard to watch the Xmas pies, lest some sweet-toothed rascal purloin them and then there would be no pies to grace the feast. As MODERN COOKING 237 ever in warring lands, food commodities were scarce and expensive and accordingly considered a great luxury. MINCEMEAT Mincemeat may now be prepared for the holidays ; and if kept in a cool place it will have sufficient time to blend and ripen. Here are some inexpensive recipes : One-half cup of suet One-half cup of orange One-half cup of grated peel, chopped fine carrot Two tablespoons of Six cups of apples, chopped cinnamon fine Two cups of raisins, chopped fine One-half cup of cooked meat, chopped fine One-half cup of citron, chopped fine One-half tablespoon of nutmeg One-half tablespoon of cloves One and one-half cups of molasses One cup of boiled cider Pack into a bowl or crock. Cold Mix in the order given. Cover closely and then set in a cool place to ripen, left-over meat may be used. NEW ENGLAND MINCEMEAT Place one-half pound of hamburg steak in a saucepan and add one cup of cider. Cook for fifteen minutes ; then remove from the saucepan and place in a large bowl and add Six ounces shredded suet One-half pound currants One-half pound of raisins Two pounds of minced apples Four ounces of minced citron Four ounces of minced orange peel Four ounces of winced lemon peel Two tablespoons of cinnamon One tablespoon of allspice Three-fourths of table- spoon of cloves Two and one-half cups of syrup One cup of boiled cider 238 MODERN COOKING Mix in the order given, then pack in glass or crock. Cover closely and then set in a cool place to ripea. ORANGE MINCEMEAT 'Squeeze the juice of three oranges. Place the peel in a saucepan of cold water. Cook until tender. Drain and then pour through the food chopper. Place in a bowl and add Six cups of apples, chopped One cup of grated carrot moderately fine Two tablespoons of One cup of suet, chopped cinnamon fine One-half tablespoon of One cup of raisins, allspice chopped fine One-half tablespoon of One cup of evaporated mace peaches, chopped fine One-half tablespoon of One cup of evaporated ginger apricots, chopped fine One-half tablespoon of One-half cup of citron, cloves chopped fine Two cups of molasses One cup of boiled cider Mix in the order given and then pack in a large bowl or crock or stone pot. Cover closely and then put in a cool place for ten days to ripen. GREEN TOMATO AND APPLE MINCE Place one quart of green tomatoes chopped fine in a colander. Cover with two tablespoons of salt. Let drain for two hours. Place in a saucepan and add One cup of syrup One cup of cider Cook gently for one-half hour; now pour into a bowl and add MODERN COOKING 239 Three-fourths of a cup of chopped fine shredded suet One and one-half table- Five cups of apples, spoons of cinnamon chopped One-half tablespoon of One carrot, grated fine cloves Two cups of raisins. One-half tablespoon of chopped fine nutmeg Two cups of dates. One-half tablespoon of chopped fine ginger One-half cup of figs. One and one-half cups of chopped fine molasses One-half cup of peanuts^ One cup of boiled cider Mix in the order given; then store as directed in the preceding recipes. Do not peel the apples. When put- ting the suet, raisins and dried fruit through the food chopper, add a dried crust of bread to prevent clogging. EGGS The similarity in the proportion of the shell, yolk and white of Qgg in the chicken eggs is that the shell aver- ages about one-tenth, the yolk about three-fourths and the white about four-tenths. The shell alone is counted as waste. The white contains about six-eighths water, the solids of the white are virtually all nitrogeneous mat- ter or protein. The yolk contains about one-half water and one-third fat, and the balance is of nitrogenous mat- ter or protein. Newly laid or fresh eggs have a semi-transparent uni- form, pale pinkish tint ; the shell contains a very small air chamber, which separates the skin and shell of the egg and is filled with air. This chamber increases with the age of the egg. Eggs when cooked at a low temperature are delicate and easy to digest, and they can be used for invalids, and persons with a delicate digestion. 240 MODERN COOKING HOW TO COOK EGGS Eggs boiled are eggs spoiled; the physician tells us that hard-boiled eggs require three and a half hours to digest. Keep this in mind when cooking eggs. Water boils at a temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Eggs should be cooked at a temperature between 165 and 185 degrees Fahrenheit. Place water in a saucepan and bring to a boil ; boil for three minutes and add the eggs. Place on the back of the stove and let the eggs stand for eight minutes for a very soft boil and twenty-five minutes for hard boiled. The water should be kept hot — ^that is, just below the boiling point. FRIED EGGS Place the fat in the pan and heat until very hot and then place where the pan will maintain this heat without getting any hotter; if you use the gas turn down the burner. Add the eggs. Let them cook very slowly until set and then turn if desired. Eggs cooked in this way will not absorb the fat and will be tender and delicate, and not have a crust of crisped egg around the edge. EGGS CARTHEOTH Tomatoes, peppers and pimentos are generally used for this dish. Prepare the tomatoes or peppers by cut- ting a slice from the top and then hollowing out the cen- tres. Break in an egg and then season with salt and pepper and a little finely minced parsley. Cover with two tablespoons of cream sauce. Place in the oven and bake for ten minutes. Finely minced ham or bacon may be sprinkled over the egg before adding the cream sauce. Cold cooked or left-over vegetables, such as corn, peas, asparagus, onions or cauliflower, may be used also. Cold boiled potatoes, beets, turnips, etc., may be made to do duty in place of tomatoes, peppers or pimentos for the MODERN COOKING 24-1 sake of variety. Serve with a thick, highly seasoned sauce. POACHED EGGS To prepare poached eggs place water in a saucepan and add one tablespoon of vinegar to each pint of water. Bring to a boil and then open the egg on a saucer and slide into the boiling water, let simmer slowly until it forms and then lift with a skimmer on to a napkin to drain. Then roll gently on a slice of buttered toast. If you have any old-fashioned muffin rings place them flat in the bottom of the saucepan and then pour the eggs in and poach. Or you may use any of the poachers that are sold in any of the house-furnishing stores. OMELET Plain and fluffy omelets are cooked in the same man- ner as the fried eggs. PLAIN OMELET Place three tablespoons of shortening in a frying pan and then, while heating, place the three eggs in a bowl and add One tablespoon of milk One tablespoon of water Beat with a fork to thoroughyl mix and then, when the pan is smoking hot, turn in the mixture. Then place where the omelet will cook very slowly. Season and then turn and fold and roll, turning on a hot platter. SPANISH OMELET Use the fluffy omelet recipe and then chop fine two medium-sized tomatoes, drain free from the moisture and add one medium-sized onion and four large olives, chopped fine. Place in a small pan with one tablespoon of butter to heat. When hot spread over the omelet and then fold and roll or place in a hot oven and bake. 242 MODERN COOKING FLUFFY OMELET Separate the yolks and whites of three eggs. Place the yolks in a bowl and add three tablespoons of milk. Beat to thoroughly mix and then beat the whites until very stiff. Cut and fold the yolks into the prepared whites and then turn into a pan and cook slowly. Fold and roll and turn on a hot platter. Fried eggs and omelets may be garnished with ham, bacon, parsley, finely chopped; pimentos and green peppers. To make variously flavored omelets, prepare the omelet as for plain omelet and then just before the turning and rolling add the desired flavoring. Then roll and fold the omelet and turn out on a hot dish. Have the filling heated before spreading on the omelet. Left-over vege- tables and bits of meat may be used in this manner for attractive dishes. TIGER-EYE SANDWICHES Use strictly fresh eggs for this. Separate the white the yolk and keep the yolk in the shell until ready for use. Add a pinch of salt to the white and beat until very stiff. Pile in a pyramid on a square slice of toast. Make a well in the centre of the white of egg and then drop in the yolk. Dust over lightly with paprika and then bake for seven minutes in a hot oven. MEASUREMENTS Many women are familiar with the importance of ac- curate measurements in preparing foods. Others fre- quently complain of the troubles they have with recipes, but what they actually need to know is that we no longer live in the days of twenty-five cents a dozen for fresh eggs and that the day of thirty cents per pound for cream- ery butter of excellent quaUty is past. Gone are the days of plenty when the extravagant cook MODERN COOKING 243 was the best cook. Banish all recipes that call for cups of butter. From motives of real practical economy, we now use level measurements; that means that you first sift your flour into a bowl and then fill the measure, using a spoon to fill with and then level the top of the measure with a knife. Level measurement means all that lies below the edge of the cup or spoon. The experienced cook with an eye for measurements can gauge the amounts, very frequently, to a nicety. While she may sometimes have a failure, she will never attribute it to her measure or the method of compounding the ingredients ; oftentimes she will blame the flour, the baking powder or even the oven. One woman wrote me that she wished to know what the trouble was with her cakes. I asked her to give the recipe and she answered that she generally used a bowl for measuring and that then she used sugar, eggs, butter, flour and enough milk or water to make a batter — ^there was no real definite amounts. When I replied I told her that it was the measurements and methods that she used that frequently caused a failure. But she was sure that was not the case, for her cake was usually good, and it was only once in a while that she had a failure. So I had quite a time convincing her that accurate measurements will always give the same results and assured success and that she could bake the same cake 365 days in the year and not once have a failure. To-day this woman would not return to the old way of doing her cooking, and recently I had a little note from her telling me to let the other middle-aged and young housewives, too, know how necessary it is to be accurate. You know it only takes a few minutes longer to meas- ure accurately, and then you are able to make that de- 244 MODERN COOKING licious cake without a failure. No failures, no waste. Truly, the words of "trusting to luck" should be taboo in the efficient woman's kitchen. The temptation to add just a little more sugar, flour or shortening to a recipe with the idea of improving it must be eliminated if you wish to cook successfully. When using vegetable oil in place of butter in making cakes cut down the quantity of fat fully one-third. Many cake recipes contain too much fat. When the amounts are less than one cup, frequently it is easier to measure with a spoon. Remember all meas- ures are level : Sixteen tablespoons 1 cup Eight tablespoons Y^ cup Four tablespoons J4 cup Five tablespoons plus one teaspoon % cup Sift the flour once before measuring. Standard meas- uring cups holding one-half pint are divided on one side into quarters and on the other side into thirds, and they are usually found in all housefumishing stores, and there is a choice of aluminum, glass or tin. Sets of measuring spoons will save time and trouble. The spoons graduate from one-quarter of a teaspoon to one tablespoon, thus making accurate measurements for seasoning and flavoring. A spatula will repay its cost many times over the first month it is used. It is possible with this knife to remove every particle of food from a mixing bowl How can you keep a house without a pair of reliable scales? Do you know how much the chicken weighed that you bought on Saturday, and do you know how much waste there was; or the weight of the bone in the meat that you purchased on Wednesday? Do you ever weigh your purchases? Think this over and then buy a good MODERN COOKING 245 pair of scales and keep them in s convenient place. List of equivalent measures : — 1 salt spoon J^ teaspoon 3 teaspoons 1 tablespoon 3 tablespoons 1 cooking spoon 4 tablespoons J4 cup 8 tablespoons J4 cup 12 tablespoons ^ cup 16 tablespoons 1 cup 2 cups 1 pint 2 pints 1 quart 4 quarts 1 gallon DRY MEASURE 8 quarts 1 peck 2 quarts J4 peck 4 quarts Yt. peck 2 cups granulated sugar.. 1 poiuid 2-54 cups brown sugar.. 1 pound Z-Yi cups ground coffee. 1 pound 3 cups of cornstarch. ... 1 pound 2 cups of butter 1 pound 2 cups of lard 1 pound 3 cups granulated corn- meal 1 pound 3-54 cups of rye flour.. 1 pound "^Y^ cups of graham flour 1 pound 4 cups of sifted flour. . . 1 pound 3-^4 cups of unsifted wheat flour 1 pound Z-Yi cups of whole wheat flour 1 pound 9 cups of bran flour. ... 1 pound 2 cups of rice flour 1 pound 246 MODERN COOKING ITALIAN DRESSING One-half cup of salad oil One teaspoon of paprika Four tablespoons of Three tablespoons of vinegar grated cheese One teaspoon of salt Place in a fruit jar and then shake to blend. SOUR CREAM CUCUMBER DRESSING Pare and grate one medium-sized cucumber and then sprinkle with one teaspoon of salt. Let stand for one hour and then drain, and place one cup of sour cream in a bowl. Beat until stiff and add the prepared cucum- ber and One teaspoon of mustard Two tablespoons of finely One teaspoon of pepper chopped parsley Two tablespoons of finely Juice of one-half lemon chopped onion Mix well before serving. CREAM CABBAGE Cut the cabbage fine and then place in cold salted water to crisp. Drain well and then add One green or red pepper, One tablespoon of mustard chopped fine to each seed quart of cabbage and then prepare a dressing as follows : Place in a soup plate the yolk of one tgg, and then add One teaspoon of vinegar One teaspoon of sugar One teaspoon of mustard One teaspoon of paprika Work with a fork to a smooth thick paste, and then add slowly one-half cup of salad oil. When very thick reduce to the desired consistency with four tablespoons of evaporated milk and six to eight tablespoons of vine- MODERN COOKING 247 gar. Beat with a Dover egg-beater and then pour over the cabbage. SALADS Wash and drain the lettuce and then shred fine, using a pair of sharp scissors. Place in a bowl and then chop fine one bunch of scallions and a stalk of celery and add to the lettuce. Cover with mayonnaise dressing and serve for luncheon with a plate of cream soup. Toast and a light dessert will complete this meal. ENGLISH WATER-CRESS SALAD Cut five strips of bacon in dice and then brown nicely in a frying pan. Lift cooked bacon, drain off the fat, leaving only about five tablespoons in the pan. Now place in a cup One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of salt mustard One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of sugar paprika Four tablespoons of vinegar Dissolve and pour into the hot fat, bring to a boil and then add the cooked bacon. Now place the prepared water-cress in a bowl and pour over it the bacon with the prepared dressing. Toss gently to mix and then garnish with hard-boiled eggs (sliced). Com salad, cabbage, lettuce, romaine and escaroUe salads may be used in place of the water-cress for variety. Radishes should be well washed and then allowed to crisp in cold water. Split from the tip to the stem end in quarters. Large radishes may be peeled and cooked until tender in boiling water and then drained and served with a cream, HoUandaise or plain butter sauce for variety. OLD ENGLISH MUSTARD DRESSING One tablespoon of evaporated milk One teaspoon of mustard 248 MODERN COOKING Place in a soup plate and blend together, then add one tablespoon of oil. Then drop the vinegar, then the oil again until you have used Eight tablespoons of salad oil One tablespoon of vinegar Serve on lettuce, cucumbers, meat or fish. RICH BOILED SALAD DRESSING One-half cup of water Five tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of cornstarch vinegar Dissolve the starch in water and bring to a boil. Cook for three minutes and then add One well-beaten egg One tablespoon of sugar One-half cup of thick One teaspoon of salt cream One teaspoon of paprika Mix the sugar and seasoning with the cream and add the egg ; then add to the boiling mixture and remove from the fire at once. Beat in slowly six tablespoons of salad oil. This will keep in a cool place for six weeks. ASPARAGUS VINAIGRETTE Wash and scrape the asparagus and allow four stalks for each service. Trim to remove the pithy end of the stalk and then cook in boiling water until tender. Lift and drain well, then place in a dish and cover with the following sauce : Pour tablespoons of salad One-half tablespoon of oil finely chopped green Two tablespoons of pepper vinegar One teaspoon of salt One-half tablespoon of One teaspoon of paprika grated onion One-quarter teaspoon of mustard Beat to mix and then set on ice to chill. Serve ice cold on criso lettuce leaves. MODERN COOKING 249 OTTAWA DRESSING One-half cup of catsup Six tablespoons of vinegar Two large onions grated One teaspoon of sugar One large green pepper, One teaspoon of salt chopped fine One teaspoon of mustard One-half cup of salad oil One teaspoon of paprika Blend spices in vinegar and then beat hard to blend. BALTIMORE DRESSING One cup of mayonnaise One tablespoon of WorceS' One-half cup of well tershire sauce drained canned tomatoes Two teaspoons of salt Two onions, grated fine One teaspoon of mustard One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then serve ice cold. ASPARAGUS AND CELERY SALAD Mince sufficient celery very fine to measure one cup. Place in a bowl and add One medium-sized onion One green pepper Mince very fine and then add One-half cup of mayon- One teaspoon of salt naise One-half teaspoon of One tablespoon of vinegar paprika Mix and then fill into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves and garnish with the tips of canned asparagus. CHEESE DRESSING Four tablespoons of grated One teaspoon of paprika cheese One teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of mustard Eight tablespoons of oil Four tablespoons of vinegar Place in a bowl and blend well together. 260 MODERN COOKING DEVILED EGG SALAD Hard boil two eggs and then remove the shells and cut open the length of the egg. Remove the yolks and then rub through a fine sieve and add One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of finely mustard minced parsley One-quarter teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of salt paprika Three tablespoons of One teaspoon of grated mayonnaise onion Mix well and then form into balls, placing one ball in the place in the white of the egg which has been left by the yolk. Now place each white or one-half egg in the nest of lettuce and place around the egg Six cooked string beans two One slice of tomato, cut in Two thin slices of onion and garnish with two tablespoons of Russian dressing. VEAL Veal is the dressed carcass of the calf. The flesh should should be firm, pinkish white and should be well cooked to develop its flavor and nutritious qualities. The cuts are the neck, shoulders, rack, breast, loin and leg. The shoulders, breast and loin are used for roasting, the neck and end of the leg for stewing, the leg for cutlets and the rack for chops. The knuckle from the leg of veal may be used for stews, soups, stock or pepper pot. Other products from the calf are heads, brains, hearts, sweetbreads, feet, calves' liver, tripe, kidney and tongue, the kidneys are usually left in the loin. TO COOK The shoulder may be boned and rolled or left plain or just remove the blade bone and then use a filling. The breast may have the bones removed and then a pocket made and filled. MODERN COOKING 261 To roast the loin trim and tie into shape and then roast. Meat from the neck, breast and knuckle is frequently used with chicken and, if properly prepared, it is delicious. Stock made from veal bones is rich in gelatine and may be used for meat loaves, moulds and aspics. TO PREPARE BREADED CUTLETS Cut the cutlets into suitable pieces and then roll in flour and dip in beaten egg, and then dip again in fine bread crumbs, patting firmly. Fry quickly to a golden brown. Place in a hot oven to finish cooking. The cut- let may be served with either brown gravy or tomato sauce. VEAL CROQUETTES One cup of milk Five level tablespoons of cornstarch Place in a saucepan and then dissolve the starch in the milk. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now add One and one-half cups of One and one-half tea- cooked veal, minced fine spoons of salt One tablespoon of grated One teaspoon of pepper onion One tablespoon of Worces- Two tablespoons of finely tershire sauce minced parsley Beat to blend well and then pour on greased platter and set in a cool place for four hours to mould. Form into croquettes and then dip in beaten tgg, and then in fine bread crumbs ; fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce. COOKING THE FANCY CUTS TO PREPARE BRAINS Soak for one hour in cool water, adding the juice of one-half lemon. Drain and then parboil for ten minutes. 262 MODERN COOKING Drain and then trim free from excess tissue. Place under a weight to flatten and make firm, if desired, or cut into two and dip in flour and then in egg and finally in fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat until a golden brown. Serve with HoUandaise sauce. ROAST SHOULDER OF VEAL Have the butcher make a pocket in the veal for the filling. Now soak sufficient stale bread in cold water so that when pressed dry it will measure two cups. Place the bread in a saucepan and add One cup of finely chopped One green pepper, chopped onions fine Three tablespoons of finely One-half cup of shortening chopped parsley Mix thoroughly and then cook slowly so that the onion does not brown. When tender add One teaspoon of paprika Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of pepper Mix thoroughly and then cool and fill into veal. Sew the opening with a darning needle and a stout string or fasten with toothpicks. Dust the meat well with flour and then place in a hot oven to brown. Then reduce the heat of the oven to moderate and roast, allowing thirty minutes for the meat to start cooking and twenty-five minutes to the pound. Baste every ten minutes with : One-half cup of vegetable One and one-half cups of salad oil in boiling water CALF'S HEART A LA MODE • Wash and soak the heart for a few minutes in water and then remove the tubes, veins and cut the heart into dice. Parboil until tender. Then add, using sufficient water to cover MODERN COOKING 2S3 One-half cup of vinegar One teaspoon of sweet Four onions, chopped fine marjoram Two carrots, cut in dice Two teaspoons of salt One teaspoon of white pepper Thicken gravy and serve with toasted strips of bread. Calf's heart may be cut in thin slices, dipped in flour and then fried. Calf's liver is most delicate and must be cooked quickly, either by panning or broiling. The head is used for mock-turtle soup or cooked and served with brown sauce or made into calves' head cheese. The tongue may be cooked until tender and then pickled in vinegar. The feet may be used in place of the head for mock- turtle soup, and in place of the knuckle in making pepper pot. TRIPE FRIED IN BATTER Cut the tripe into pieces the size of an oyster and then season and dip in a batter. Fry until golden brown in hot fat and then serve with Hollandaise sauce. THE BATTER Break one egg in a cup and fill with milk. Place in a bowl and add One and one-quarter cups One-half teaspoon of of flour pepper One teaspoon of salt Beat well to free from lumps. CREOLE TRIPE Mince four onions fine and then place in a saucepan, four tablespoonfuls of shortening; add the onions and cook until soft, but not brown. Now add four table- spoonfuls of flour. Stir to blend well and then add Two cups of strained One-half pound of pre- tomatoes pared mushrooms One green pepper, minced One pound of tripe cut into fine inch blocks 254 MODERN COOKING Cook gently for twenty minutes and then season and serve. PICKLED TRIPE Cut the prepared tripe in strips one inch wide and two inches long and then place in a china bowl and add Four onions cut in rings One dozen cloves and parboiled Half-dozen allspice Two hay leaves and sufficient vinegar to cover. Let stand two days be- fore using. TURTLE AND SNAPPER Lay the turtle on its back and cut off the head. Let turtle bleed for twenty minutes. Separate the body from the shell and remove the entrails. Carefully separate the liver and heart. Now, with a sharp knife, remove the meat from the shell and lay in boiling water for two minutes. Drain. Rub the legs and all flesh containing the outer skin until the skin is removed, with a coarse towel. Now, with a cleaver, chop the shell into five pieces and place in scalding water for five minutes. Remove from hot water. Use the knife to peel off the skin and bristle from the shell. Now lay the meat and shell in cold water for one and one-half hours. You now have white and green turtle meat ready to cook. TO COOK Put the meat and shells in a large preserving kettle with sufficient cold water to cover, adding One pint jar of stewed Four large onions tomatoes Two bay leaves One stalk of celery One wiedium-sised carrot One bunch of potherbs Rind of one-half lemon One bunch of parsley Three tablespoons Three cloves Worcestershire sauce Four allspice MODERN COOKING 256 Tie the spices and vegetables in a piece of cheese-cloth and bring to a boil. Cook slowly until the meat is ten- der and then remove the white meat. Cook the green meat, most of which is in the shell, until it is tender. Place the meat, when tender, in cold water to blanch. Use the liquid for soup. Strain and add part of the turtle meat, hard-boiled egg, grated lemon rind and juice of lemon. Prepare the snapper same as green turtle. Only bleed snapper ten minutes. SHRIMP SALAD Open two tall cans of shrimp and then drain and wash under cold water. Now shred the coarse green outside leaves of lettuce very fine. Measure two cups and place in a bowl and add One green pepper One-half cup of mayon- One onion, chopped very naise dressing fine Mix well and then fill into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. Lay the shrimp on top and mask with mayonnaise. Gar- nish with two hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. SHRIMP Shrimp come, as a rule, cooked, but to cook shrimp: Plunge the shrimp into boiler prepared as for crabs. Boil for ten minutes, then drain and cool. Remove the shells and then they may be used for salads, croquettes and fried shrimps. TERRAPIN Diamond back or salt water terrapin are best. Fresh water terrapin may be used for coquettes and puree. Clean the terrapin by placing in fresh water for six hours. Wash in warm water and then place them alive in boiling water. Cook for five minutes. Remove and then rub with a coarse cloth the neck, legs and tail to re- move the skin. Wash again. Return to the pot. Cook 256 MODERN COOKING until the legs leave the body easily. Usually about thirty- five minutes for small terrapin and seventy-five minutes for large ones. The age and condition determine the time of cooking. Cool. Now, before it is entirely cold, separate the terrapin from the shell, discard the small in- testines, shell, gall, etc. Cut the meat into pieces. Cook in cream sauce for a la Maryland ; in brown sauce for a la mode or stewed terrapin. STEWED SNAPPER Open a can of snapper into a china bowl and let stand for one hour ; place in a saucepan. Two cups of water Two tablespoons of butter Four tablespoons of corn- One and one-half tea- starch, dissolved in water spoons of salt Fagot of soup herbs One teaspoon of paprika Two cloves Juice of one lemon Grated rind of one-fourth lemon Bring to a boil and cook slowly for fifteen minutes; then add the snapper meat, heat slowly 10 minutes, serve. STEAKS The selection of steak depends entirely upon the num- ber of persons to be served. A steak cannot be classed as a cheap meat; the portions of bone and trimming make this meat a rare luxury in these times of high prices. Yet there come times when the men folk want steak — ^and steak it must be. There are three kinds of meats that are cut into steaks ; namely, the loin, rimip and round. All three will make delicious eating if properly prepared. The round steak has the least waste, and if steaks are taken from the first three cuts they should be tender and juicy, providing they are cut sufficiently thick and are properly cooked. The rump steak is fully as tender and palatable as loin and it contains about one-third less waste. The sirloin MODERN COOKING 257 is the choicest cut in the whole carcass and it contains a proportionately large amount of waste. Have the butcher cut the round steak one-half inch thick and then pound it with a meat ax to break the tough tissues. Place on a platter and brush with salad oil and let stand for one-half hour. Now broil in the usual manner, turning everjr four minutes. Lift to a hot platter and spread with choice meat butters given below. Rump steak should be cut two inches thick and the bone and fat trimmed. Now nick and score the edge of the fat and brush with salad oil, and then broil the same as for round steak. The sirloin steak should be cut two inches thick. Have the butcher remove the chine bone and then the flank end. Let him add a piece of suet to the flank end; then put it through the food chopper for hamburg steak. It is a mistake to cook the flank with the sirloin. Brush the steak with salad oil and then broil. Lift to a hot platter. Place one pint of water and one tablespoonful of salt in the bottom of the broiling pan to prevent the fat drippings from taking fire. Turn the meat every four minutes, so that it makes the cooking even. To test the meat when broiling press with a knife; if it is soft and spongy it is raw. Watch carefully and when just beginning to become firm it is rare. Allow four minutes for medium and six minutes for well done. Po not turn the meat with a fork. The intense heat has sealed or seared the surface and caused the meat to retain its juices, and if you use a fork to turn it you will puncture or make an opening so that these juices will escape. A two-pound steak will be cooked rare in twelve minutes, medium in fifteen minutes and well done in eighteen minutes. Always lift to a hot platter. 258 MODERN COOKING FRENCH BUTTER Two tablespoons of finely Juice of one-half lemon chopped chives Two tablespoons of melted One tablespoon of finely butter chopped leeks One-half teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of finely One-half teaspoon of chopped tarragon ' paprika Work to a smooth paste. French and Italian and Swiss cooks frequently serve a vegetable garnish with steaks. It is prepared as follows : One green pepper, chopped Two onions, chopped fine fine Two leeks, chopped fine Eight branches of parsley chopped fine Ten branches of tarragon chopped fine One-half cup of chives, chopped fine Place four tablespoons of shortening or vegetable oil in a frying pan and add the herbs and cook very slowly luitil soft, taking care not to brown. Now season with salt, pepper and dress on a hot platter in a little mound at the bottom of the steak. Garnish with a slice of lemon. ENGLISH BUTTER One tablespoon of butter One-quarter teaspoon of One-quarter teaspoon of mustard white pepper One-half teaspoon of salt Work to a paste and then spread on a steak as soon as you place it on the platter. LONDON BUTTER One tablespoon of melted butter One tablespoon of Worces- tershire sauce One-half teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of pepper One tablespoon of lemon juice Mix and then pour over the steak. MODERN COOKING 259 SWISS BUTTER One tablespoon of grated One-quarter teaspoon of onion paprika One tablespoon of finely One and one-half table- minced parsley spoons of butter One-half teaspoon of salt Work to a smooth paste. ITALIAN BUTTER One green pepper, chopped One-half teaspoon of salt very fine Two tablespoons of butter One teaspoon of paprika Work to a smooth paste and then spread on the meat. VEGETABLE GARNISH Carrots, turnips and parsnips may be cut into cubes and then shaped Uke a cork. Cook until tender in boiling water and then brown quickly in a little hot fat. Beets and turnips may be cooked until tedder and then scoop out the centres and fill with onions or cucumber mayonnaise. BROILED HAMBURG STEAK Do not fry or pan hamburg steak made from flank of sirloin. Place meat in bowl and add Three-quarters cup of One teaspoon of salt moist bread crumbs One-half teaspoon of One onion, minced fine paprika Two tablespoons of parsley One egg Mix, form into flat cakes, brush with salad oil ; place on baking dish. Broil in gas broiler for eight minutes, then place in hot oven for seven minutes longer. Spread with desired butter and send to the table in a baking dish. This will give a delicious flavored meat in place of the usual dry, tasteless cake that is frequently served. 260 MODERN COOKING SALADS Salads are a popular summer dish. They should be made from fresh vegetables which contain the health- giving elements that are so vitally essential for our physical well-being. There are also the mineral salts which help purify the blood stream and thus keep us physically fit. Eggs, etc., that are used in preparing the dressings have a food value that may be figured upon in our daily ration. Heavy salads, composed of meat, are best to be eliminated for the hot weather. Replace them with light, dainty, attractive salads, that are not only appetiz- ing but also easily digested. The making of a successful salad is an art indeed. The proper blending of the various ingredients and then using a well-blended dressing and garnishing, so that it will not only satisfy the eye but will tempt the palate as well; that is a real salad. The proper combinations are very important ; harmony must prevail. As, for instance, a combination of beets, tomatoes and carrots would not only be inartistic but also a poor combination of foods. Care must be taken in preparing the lettuce or other greens used. All plants that form into heads must be separately and thoroughly washed in order to free them from dirt and insects, and then they should be given a final washing in water that contains one tablespoon of salt to every two quarts, then rinsed in ice water. The bath in salt water will remove the tiny and almost invisible mites and slugs that cling to these greens. Many varieties of salad dressing may be prepared from mayonnaise or from the dressing purchased in bottles. When the housewife fails to make a good mayonnaise dressing, or the family is small, a good standard dressing already prepared may be purchased and used in the following recipes : MODERN COOKING 261 RUSSIAN DRESSING One cup of salad dressing, One raw carrot or mayonnaise One raw onion One raw beet Pare and then grate the vegetables into the salad dressing and then add One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of paprika mustard One tablespoon of sugar Beat to mix and then use. This dressing will keep for a week, if it is placed in a bottle and stored in a cool place. FRENCH DRESSING Place in a bottle : One-half cup of salad oil One-half teaspoon of Three tablespoons of mustard vinegar or lemon juice One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of salt pepper Shake until creamy and then store in a cool place. This will keep well until used. ROQUEFORT DRESSING One-half teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of lemon One-half teaspoon of juice paprika Two tablespoons of salad One tablespoon of oil Roquefort cheese Mix smooth and serve. BOILED DRESSING One cup of vinegar Three level tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of cornstarch water Dissolve the starch in the water and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then add 262 MODERN COOKING One well-beaten egg One and one-half teaspoons Four tablespoons of salad of salt oil One teaspoon of paprika One teaspoon of mustard Two teaspoons of sugar Beat till thoroughly mixed and then cook slowly for three minutes. Pour into jars or jelly glasses and thin out with cream or evaporated milk when using. PIMENTO DRESSING Add four finely chopped pimentos to one-half cup of prepared salad dressing. PAPRIKA DRESSING Add one and one-half teaspoons of paprika to the French dressing. Shake well to blend. Paprika is a sweet, mild, red pepper that will not bite the tongue. During the warm weather use salads twice a day, be- ginning the day with water-cress, radishes or crisp young onions or leaves of lettuce for your health's sake. BLOND FRENCH DRESSING Place in a wide mouthed Four tablespoons of white bottle wine vinegar One teaspoon of sugar One-half cup of vegetable One teaspoon of mustard salad oil One-half teaspoon of salt Shake until creamy. The use of paprika is decidedly better than the pungent pepper. This pepper is a mildly sweet-flavored spice that does not irritate the delicate lining of the throat or stomach. Now, fully as important as the green appetizers are the dainty salads, lettuce, corn salad, endive, romaine, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, cabbage and the cooked vegetables, such as lima beans, peas, string beans, beets, etc. The success of salads depends entirely on the dressings MODERN COOiaNG 263 used with them. So, with this in mind, we will now prepare some delicious dressings. Place in a fruit jar and then put them in the ice box, where they can be had at a minute's notice. You know that often when you come home just fagged out, when perhaps you did not take the time to get luncheon, a cool, crisp salad and some thinly sliced buttered bread and a cup of tea will not only satisfy and refresh you, but will also prevent a headache. A LA MODE CANADIENNE Shred the coarse green leaves of lettuce fine and then place in salad bowl and add Two cooked carrots dice Two cooked beets, cut in Two onions, chopped fine Toss gently to mix and then prepare the following dressing : Place in fruit jar One-half cup of vegetable pepper salad oil One teaspoon of paprika Two tablespoons of grated One and one-half teaspoons onion of salt Four tablespoons of Three-quarters teaspoon of vinegar mustard Three tablespoons of finely One-half cup of catsup or minced green or red chili sauce Shake until well blended and then pour over the salad as you serve it. TRY THIS DRESSING ON PLAIN LETTUCE Wash and remove all blemishes from one bunch of scallions ; then chop fine and add One-half cup of may- One and one-half teaspoons onnaise of salt Two tablespoons of vinegar One teaspoon of paprika One-half teaspoon of mustard 264 MODERN COOKING Mix the spices and seasoning with the vinegar and add to the mayonnaise. Then add the finely chopped scallions. Serve on plain lettuce. PARISIAN CELERY Fill the grooves of the celery with highly seasoned cheese. SCALLIONS A L'lTALIENNE Wash and then remove the blemishes from two bunches of scallions, chop fine and then parboil and drain. Now cook four ounces of macaroni in boiling water until tender. Drain, blanch under cold water and then drain again. Now place the cooked macaroni and the prepared scallions in a saucepan and add One cup of brown gravy One ounce of grated cheese One cup of thick cream Two teaspoons of salt sauce One teaspoon of paprika Toss gently until hot and then serve with waffles in place of meat for luncheon. PEA SHORE PIE Grease a deep pudding pan well. Cut any variety of fish desired into pieces weighing about two ounces. Free from bones and skin and then roll in flour and place a layer of fish, then a layer of thinly sliced tomatoes, a layer of thinly sliced potatoes and then a layer of pre- pared fish. Season each layer with salt, pepper and finely chopped green peppers. Pour over it two cups of thick cream sauce with One-half dozen clams One teaspoon of paprika One cup of cooked peas Two tablespoons of finely Two teaspoons of salt chopped parsley Cover with a crust rolled one-half inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours. Brush the pastry with milk and as soon as it browns MODERN COOKING 265 lightly cover with a pie plate to prevent taking on too deep a color. FISH SOUFFLE This dainty dish is made by rubbing one-half cup of cold boiled fish through a fine sieve. Then add One cup of cold cream One tablespoon of Worces- sauce tershire sauce One tablespoon of salt Yolks of two eggs One teaspoon of paprika Three tablespoons of finely One-half teaspoon of chopped parsley mustard Beat hard to mix and then carefully fold in the stifHy beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into well-greased custard cups and then set the cups in a pan containing warm water, and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the centre, usually about twenty minutes. FISH LOAF Two cups of cold boiled of salt fish One teaspoon of paprika One cup of prepared bread Two teaspoons of grated crumbs onion One cup of thick cream One green pepper, minced sauce fine One and one-half teaspoons One well-beaten egg Mix and then pack into the prepared loaf-shaped pan. Stand this pan in a larger one containing hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for fifty minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand for a few minutes. Then unmould on a hot platter and serve with Creole sauce. To prepare the crumbs, soak stale bread in cold water ; then place in a cloth and squeeze dry. Rub through a fine sieve and then measure. To prepare the pan, grease the pan and then line it with a greased and floured paper. 266 MODERN COOKING BOILED SALT COD Soak one and one-quarter pounds of boneless salt cod for four hours and then drain and wipe in a piece of cheese-cloth and plunge in a deep saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to cover the fish. Bring to a boil and then cook for thirty-five minutes. Lift and drain well and place on a hot platter. Cover with two cupfuls of cream sauce and garnish with one-quarter cupful of finely minced parsley and then sprinkle with two table- spoonfuls of grated cheese. CONNECTICUT FISH CHOWDER Any cheap fish that is fresh will do for this dish, or it may be made from the heads, fins and backbones of the fish, used for filets or broiling. Place 'the heads, fins and backbones of three medium-sized fish in a deep sauce- pan and add Two quarts of cold water One-half bay leaf Two onions, cut fine One-half teaspoon of One carrot, cut in tiny dice thyme Cover and bring to a boil. Cook slowly for one hour. Now remove the heads, fins and backbones and pick the meat from the heads and backbones and return to the stock. Now rub one cup of stewed tomatoes through a sieve and add five tablespoons of cornstarch. Stir tmtil the starch is dissolved and then add to the stock. Bring quickly to a boil and add Two cups of diced and Two tablespoons of butter parboiled potatoes Two tablespoons of finely Sdlt and pepper to taste chopped parsley Let boil up once and then serve. This is delicious. One pound of fish may be used in place of heads, fins and backbones. MODERN COOKING 267 FISH CUTLET Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of flaked cold One tablespoon of salt fish One teaspoon of paprika One and one-half cups of One tablespoon of Worces- prepared stale bread tershire sauce Two onions, grated One-half teaspoon of Four tablespoons of finely mustard chopped parsley One well-beaten egg Mix thoroughly and then shape into cutlets. Roll in flour and then dip in beaten egg, and thei; into fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat. To prepare the bread, soak stale bread in warm water until soft. Place in a cloth and then squeeze until very dry; then rub through a colander to remove the lumps. Fish cutlets are served with a menu, as follows : SALMON CHARTREUSE Open a can of salmon and then drain. Remove the skin and bones and flake ^with a fork. Soak three table- spoons of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water and then place in a saucepan Two tablespoons of finely Two tablespoons of carrots chopped onion Fagot of soup herbs Two tablespoons of finely Two cups of water chopped parsley Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Strain and then add The juice of one-half One and one-quarter teOf lemon spoons of salt One teaspoon of paprika and the dissolved gelatine. Mix thoroughly and then cool and add the prepared salmon. 268 MODERN COOKING One tablespoon of grated Three tablespoons of finely onion chopped parsley Pour into a mould that has been rinsed with cold water and chilled on ice. Set in a cool place to mould. When ready to serve unmould on a bed of lettuce and serve with Russian dressing. This may be prepared Saturday afternoon. BROILED SALT MACKEREL, FLEMISH STYLE Soak the mackerel overnight in plenty of cold water to cover, keeping the skin side up. In the morning remove the head and then wash and parboil. Drain and then place on a baking dish and spread lightly with bacon or ham fat and dust lightly with flour. Place in the broiler of the gas range and broil until nicely browned. Now, while the mackerel is cooking, prepare a Flemish sauce as follows : One onion One green pepper Two branches of parsley Chop very fine and then place in a saucepan with three tablespoons of butter. Cover closely and steam until the vegetables are soft. Now add: One tablespoon of vinegar One teaspoon of pumpkin One teaspoon of sugar Two tablespoons of boiling One-half teaspoon of water mustard Bring to a boil and pour over the fish. Garnish with cress. SALT COD, VERMONT Select a thick centre; cut and soak for one hour in warm water. Wrap in a piece of cheese-cloth and plunge into boiling water. Boil for fifteen minutes and then drain. Divide into four individual baking dishes and cover with cream sauce. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs MODERN COOKING 269 and a little grated onion, and bake for ten minutes in a hot oven. MEATS In order to purchase meats intelligently so that we will receive the best value for money expended, it is necessary to know the nature of the cuts, and especially the propor- tionate amounts of lean meat, fat and bone that they contain; also the approximate food values of the meat obtained from various parts of the carcass. HIND QUARTERS Loin steaks average 57 per cent, lean, 33 per .cent visible fat, 10 per cent. bone. Sirloin steaks in general contain a larger percentage of lean meat and a smaller amount of fat than the porterhouse or club steaks. Rib cuts contain 52 per cent, lean meat, 31 per cent, fat, 17 per cent. bone. The greatest percentage of lean meat is found in the sixth rib, and the smallest in the eleventh and twelfth rib cuts. Round steaks are meat cut from the round. They average 67 per cent, lean meat, 20 per cent, fat and 16 per cent. bone. The round steaks contain 73 per cent, to 84 per cent, lean meat. The rump contains 49 per cent, lean meat, the round as a pot roast contains about 86 per cent, lean meat ; the largest percentage of fat is found in the rump roast. Soup bones contain from 8 per cent, to 60 per cent, lean meat. THE FOREQUARTERS The forequarters of beef contain the chuck, the shoulder, clod, neck and shank. The chuck contains 67 per cent, lean meat, 20 per cent, fat and 12 per cent. bone. Chuck steak varies from 60 per cent, to 80 per cent, lean and from 8 per cent, to 24 per cent, fat. The clod or bolar cut contains 82 per cent, lean meat and 5 per cent. bone. 270 MODERN COOKING Relatively more lean and less fat meat is found in the chuck rib roast than in the cut from the prime rib roast. The naval, brisket and rib ends average 52 per cent, lean meat, 40 per cent, fat and 8 per cent. bone. The brisket and navel cuts are similar in proportion, while the rib ends slightly higher in percentage of bone and less lean. Flank steak contains 85 per cent, lean meat and 15 per cent. fat. Shank cuts or soup bones from the shank vary from 15 per cent, to 67 per cent, lean meat and from 25 per cent, to 76 per cent, bone, while the boneless shank, used for stews, goulashes, hashes and minces, contain 85 per cent, lean meat and IS per cent. fat. The trimmings from the loin, in steaks reduce their weights about 13 per cent, and these trimmings average 4.6 per cent, fat and 2 per cent. bone. Round steak is reduced about 7 per cent, in weight in trimmings, prin- cipally in fat ; chuck steaks about 6}i per cent., principally bone. Rump, shoulder, pot roast and neck are all materially reduced in weight by fat and bone trimmings, the size and condition of the animal determining the actual amounts. The actual proportion of lean meat, fat and bone in the various cuts, their relative values of economy, fixes the prices to the consumer. Taking the cuts of meat in their right order we have : First the neck for soup, stews and coming. The cost is very low and the waste is considerable. Second, the chuck. This includes the entire shoulder and contains five ribs. The first two ribs are usually sold as shoulder, roast and steak, and while they are about the same quality as No. 9, they cost considerably less. Third, the shoulder clod. This is part of the chuck and can be purchased in almost all markets. The price is low and there is no waste. It is used principally for MODERN COOKING 271 steaks and pot roasts. When used for steaks, score the meat well. Fourth, shank. According to the market price, this is the cheapest part of the beef. However, it contains 54 per cent, to 57 per cent, waste and requires long cooking. It is used for soups and stews. Fifth, ribs. Contains eight ribs; five of these are the prime cuts and used for roasting exclusively. Sixth, sirloin. The loin, some cuts contain as low as 3 per cent, waste. The sirloin is tender; therefore, quickly and easily cooked. For this reason it is one of the most popular cuts. Seventh, porterhouse. This portion of the loin contains the choicest steaks, excellent and nutritious and easily cooked. The fillet or tenderloin forms a part of the loin and averages about 13 per cent, waste. Eighth, rump. This cut is very nutritious, but requires careful cooking to render it tender; it contains slightly more waste than the round. Good steaks are obtained from the rump ; it is also used for pot roast braising and coming. Ninth, pin bone, the middle portion of the loin. It is of excellent quality, tender and of good flavor and quite as popular as the loin. It is the face cut of the rump. Tenth, round. An inexpensive cut, containing only 7 per cent, waste. It is nutritious as tenderloin, but not as tender. The first essential in cooking is to sear the out- side in order to retain the juices and then cook slowly until tender. Steak and roast are cut from the round and the back or heel and is used for pot roast and stews. One factor in helping to keep up the high prices of food is that the average woman, when she goes to market, has in mind fancy price and choice cuts for roast, steaks and chops. The choice cuts represent about 26 per cent, of the whole carcass, leaving about 74 per cent, to be dis- 272 MODERN COOKING posed of. Now, if this becomes difficult, the fancy cuts must bear the additional cost and so become proportion- ately high in price. Take a cross cut of beef, weighing about six pounds and wipe with a damp cloth, and one-half cupful of flour patted into it and then brown quickly on both sides in a frying pan and then place in a fireless cooker or a mod- erate oven together with Two medium-sized onions One and one-half cups of One carrot, cut in quarters boiling water and cook slowly, allowing one-half hour for the meat to start cooking and then twenty-five minutes to the pound. Baste frequently. If baked in the range it should give a delicious, well-flavored roast, that will supply the most finicky family with a good substantial food. The bolar cut from the shoulder may be prepared the same way. Meat from the the neck and shin may be used for stews, goulashes and meat loaves. POT ROAST OF SHIN BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE Have the butcher cut a piece of beef from the upper part of the shin, with the bone in. Wipe with a damp cloth and then pat in one-half cupful of flour. Brown quickly on both sides and then lift to a deep saucepan and add One large turnip, cut in One fagot of soup herbs quarters One-half teaspoon of sweet One large carrot, cut in marjoram quarters Two cups of boiling water Cover closely and cook slowly until the meat is tender, allowing one-half hour for meat to start cooking and twenty-five minutes to the pound, counting the time when it is put into the kettle. The plate and brisket may be used for soups, stews MODERN COOKING 273 and goulashes and for corning. The brisket makes a splendid pot roast when boned and rolled. Also the plate or brisket may be used for a la mode. The flank steak is a choice piece of lean, boneless meat that lies close to the ribs and weighs from one and three- quarters to two and one-half pounds. It may be used for steaks, if cut in slanting slices or for mock fillet or rolled or for hamburg steak. When boiling or stewing meat, keep this in mind: Meat to be palatable and juicy must contain nutriment; it must be plunged into boiling water to seal the surface, by coagulating the albumen in the meat ; and then it should be cooked just below the boiling point until tender, al- lowing one-half hour for the meat to heat and start cook- ing and then twenty-five minutes to the pound. Add salt just before removing from the fire. Keep this fact in mind, that salt will, if added when the meat is just starting to cook, extract the juice. For pot roast and braises, etc., it is necessary to quickly sear over the surface of the meat for the same reason that the meat was plunged into boiling water and then cook slowly, allowing the same proportion of time as for boil- ing or stewing. The real object in cooking meat is to retain the juices and make it sufficiently tender to eat and increase its flavor. BEEF STEW Cut two and one-half pounds of stewing beef in two- inch pieces and then roll in flour and brown in hot fat; then add three pints of boiling water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for one hour ; then place in a saucepan Two cups of flour One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of One tablespoon of baking pepper powder Rub between the hands to mix and then add three- 274 MODERN COOKING quarters cup of cold water to form a dough. Make into balls between the hands and then drop into the stew. Cover closely and boil fast for twelve minutes. Now re- move the lid and cook for three minutes longer. Then season and serve. TO PREPARE FISH FOR FRYING Remove the head, fins and bones, using them for the fish stock. Place fillets in a dish and marinate for one hour in Three tablespoons of lemon Two tablespoons of grated juice or vinegar onion Two tablespoons of salad One teaspoon of salt oil One teaspoon of paprika Then roll lightly in flour and dip into beaten ^gg, then in fine crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat. GRILLED FISH Sea trout, striped bass or other fish may be used. Clean and bone the fish and then place in baking dish and spread freely with salad oil. Broil for twelve minutes in broiler of the gas range or bake for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve with a fish sauce prepared as follows : Chop fine Three large tomatoes Four onions Two green peppers. Now chop two ounces of salt pork or fat bacon very fine and place in a skillet and cook until nicely browned. Add the finely chopped onions and tomatoes and green pepper and cook slowly until the vegetables are soft. Then season with One-half teaspoon of sugar One-half teaspoon of white One teaspoon of salt pepper Juice of one-half lemon Mix thoroughly and serve with the fish. MODERN COOKING 275 FISH LOAF Prepare a sauce as follows: Place in a saucepan One cup of milk Five tablespoons of flour. Stir with a fork until the flour is dissolved and then bring quickly to a boil. Cook three minutes and then re- move and pour into a mixing bowl, and add Two cups of cold-toiled Six branches of parsley fish minced very fine One cup of cold-boiled One tablespoon of paprika rice One-half teaspoon of mus- One cup of stale bread, pre- tard pared as for fish cutlet One tablespoon of Worces- Four tablespoons of short- tershire sauce ening (finely chopped One-half teaspoon of sweet salt pork if desired) marjoram One large onion One egg One large green pepper Beat hard to thoroughly mix and then pour into a well- greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Place this pan in a larger one containing hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Serve with a sauce made as follows : Two cups of stewed to- One green pepper, chopped matoes fine Four onions, chopped fine Cook until onions and peppers are soft and then rub through a coarse sieve. Now add One-half cup of water One teaspoon of sugar Three tablespoons of corn- One-half teaspoon of starch pepper Two teaspoons of salt Pinch of cloves Mix well and then pour into tomato mixture. Stir well 276 MODERN COOKING until the boiling point is reached and then cook three minutes. Add two tablespoons of butter and serve. BROILED BASS Have the fish dealer split the bass for broiling, then wash and pat dry with a paper napkin and cover the cut surface of the fish with salad oil. Place on a baking sheet and broil in the broiler of the gas range until nicely browned; then set in the oven for five minutes to finish cooking. CREAM FINNAN HADDIE Cover the fish with cold water and then bring to a boil. Drain and cover with cream sauce. Now add One green pepper, chopped Five tablespoons of finely fine chopped parsley One onion grated Two tablespoons of butter Simmer slowly for ten minutes to cook the herbs ; then lift to the toast. LONG ISLAND SOUND COCKTAIL Place in a bowl One-half bottle of tomato One tablespoon of finely catsup minced green pepper One tablespoon of grated One tablespoon of Worces- onion tershire sauce Two tablespoons of finely One-half teaspoon of minced parsley mustard Mix well and then take the clam shells and scrub them clean. Fill with a mixture as follows : One cup of cold-boiled One green pepper, chopped fish fine One onion, chopped fine Mix well. Make a well in the centre and fill with a sauce. Dust with paprika and serve ice cold. MODERN COOKING 277 FILET FISH, SOUTHERN STYLE Clean, wash and drain fish. Do not dry. Have fat smoking hot. Place fish in pan, reduce heat and cook slowly until brown and crisp. FISH CAKES Boil fifteen large potatoes and then mash fine and add One-half pound of pre- Lump of butter the size of pared shredded codfish an egg One egg One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then form into balls. Roll in flour and fry until golden brown in hot fat. COLD SPICE TONGUE Select a medium-sized tongue without the gullet and wash well; then soak for four hours in warm water. Place in a deep saucepan and cover with warm water and add One carrot, cut in dice Two allspice Two onions sliced Four cloves One fagot of soup herbs One cup of strong cider Two bay leaves vinegar Cover closely and bring to a boil; then simmer and keep just below the boiling point for three hours. Let cool in the liquid and then, when cold, chill in the ice box before slicing. The coarse left-over parts of the tongue may be used for meat loaf, croquettes or hash. PICKLED TRIPE Cut one pound of cooked honeycomb tripe in pieces one inch by three inches. Place in a casserole dish and add One cup of vinegar pepper One-half cup of water One bay leaf One onion, cut fine Eight cloves One teaspoon of salt Ten allspices One-half teaspoon of white One small red pepper pod 278 MODERN COOKING Cover and bake in hot oven for thirty minutes and then cool. BAKED HAM, VIRGINIA Scrub a small ham and cook until tender. The fireless cooker will prevent the ham from wasting while cooking. When tender, lift and remove the skin. Trim to shape and then place in a bowl Three-quarters cup of One teaspoon of nutmeg brown sugar One teaspoon of cloves One-quarter cup of cin- One teaspoon of allspice namon Mix thoroughly and then pat and rub into the ham. Place in a hot oven and bake for forty minutes, basting frequently with one-half cupful of water and one-half cupful of vinegar. CORN BEEF HASH Cut the cooked meat into one-half inch cubes and place in a saucepan and add to each cup of meat One and one-half cups of chopped onions pared and diced potatoes One cup of boiling water One-half cup of finely Cover closely and steam until meat and potatoes are tender and the water is evaporated; then season. Now melt three tablespoons of shortening in an iron frying pan and when hot turn in the hash, forming an omelet shape in half the pan. When nicely browned, turn the hash with a cake turner, still keeping the omelet shape, and brown. Turn on a hot platter and garnish with finely chopped parsley. BROWN POT ROAST OF SHIN BEEF Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and then pat into it one-half cup of flour. Now heat the bacon fat left from cooking the bacon for breakfast in a saucepan and place in the meat. Brown quickly, turning frequently until MODERN COOKING 279 every part is nicely browned ; then add two cups of water and cover closely and cook slowly for one hour. Now add Four medium-sized carrots Four medium-sised onions. Season and cover again and cook slowly until the meat and vegetables are tender, usually about thirty-five min- utes. Now add sufficient water to make one and three- quarter cups of gravy. Prepare the dumplings as follows : Place one quart of boiling water in a saucepan and add one teaspoon of salt. Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of Two teaspoons of baking flour powder One teaspoon of salt One onion, grated One-quarter teaspoon of One teaspoon of shortening pepper Mix thoroughly and then add one-half cup of water. Form to a dough and drop by the teaspoonful into the boiling water. Cover the saucepan closely and cook for fifteen minutes; then lift on a warm dish and place the dumplings as a border around the platter. Lift the meat and vegetables in the centre and pour the gravy over all. VIRGINIA SAUCE Strain the liquid from the pan in which the ham was baked and add one-half cupful of flour. Brown well and then add Two and one-half cups of Two^teaspoons of salt the liquid from the pan One teaspoon of paprika One cup of vinegar. One-half teaspoon of One-half cup of syrup nutmeg Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Now strain into a gravy bowl and serve. PORK TENDERLOIN One and a half pounds of pork tenderloin will make 280 MODERN COOKING eight nice-sized fillets. Place on a platter and baste with One small onion, minced Two tablespoons of salad fine ' oil Three tablespoons of lemon One teaspoon of salt juice One teaspoon of paprika Turn the fillet to marinate and when ready to cook lift and roll lightly in flour and then dip in beaten egg and then into fine bread crumbs. Cook until golden brown in hot fat. ROAST FRESH HAM Select a small baby pig ham and have the butcher bone and then leave space for the filling. Wipe with a damp cloth and then prepare and fill with highly seasoned bread crumbs. Tie into shape and then dust with flour and place in a baking dish and put in a hot oven to brown. Then reduce the heat and baste frequently with hot water, allowing the ham thirty minutes to start and the meat cooking thirty minutes to the pound after that. When ready to serve, lift to a warm platter and garnish with parsley or water-cress and serve with Virginia sauce. Place one medium-sized apple in with the ham to bake. BRAISED ROLLED FLANK STEAK Have the butcher score and trim the steak. Now soak sufficient stale bread in cold water to soften. Press dry and then run through a fine sieve. Measure and place two cupfuls in the mixing bowl and add Four tablespoons of short- One bunch of potherbs, ening chopped fine One cup of finely chopped One level tablespoon of salt onions One level teaspoon of pepper Mix well and then spread on a steak and roll. Tie securely with a stout string and then pat three-quarters cup of flour into the meat. Melt four tablespoons of MODERN COOKING 281 shortening in a deep saucepan and when smoking hot add the prepared meat. Brown the meat, turning frequently, and then, when nicely brown, add one cupful of boiling water and simmer slowly, allowing the meat one-half hour to start cooking and thirty minutes to the pound. Add four large onions and when ready to lift one cup of boil- ing water for gravy. Usually this gravy requires no thickening. PLANKED STEAK Have the butcher cut the steak in two and one-half inch thicknesses from the large end of the sirloin. Remove the flank end and then the tenderloin, also taking out the bones. The butcher will do this for you. Now, when ready to prepare the steak, soak the plank in cold water for one hour. Heat the broiler and then place the plank in the oven. Cook the steak until quite rare in the broiler and then lift to a hot plank. Prepare a border of mashed potatoes and put them in a pastry bag, forced out around the edge of the plank. Garnish and smother with onions and minced green peppers. Place in a hot oven for ten minutes. Use the tenderloin for minute steaks. Ham- burg the flank and serve hamburg steaks. LIVER AND BACON, CREOLE Have the butcher cut the liver in thin slices. Wipe with a clean damp cloth and then roll in flour and brown in hot fat. Now add One cup of stewed tomatoes Two green peppers, One and one-half cups of chopped fine thinly sliced onions Cover closely and cook for five minutes, then add Two tablespoons of corn- One teaspoon of paprika starch One-quarter teaspoon of One and one-half teaspoons mustard, of salt One-half cup of cold water 282 MODERN COOKING Dissolve the starch and spices well and then bring the mixture to a boil and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Now place mashed potatoes on a large platter, shaping them flat on top. Lay the slices of liver on and then pour over them the sauce and garnish with nicely brown strips of bacon. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve. CHOP SUEY Slice sufficient meat from the cold roast of pork. Now cut in half-inch blocks and place in a pan and add One cup of celery, cut in One and one-half cups of dice thick brown sauce One green pepper, minced Two teaspoons of salt fine One teaspoon of pepper Four onions, minced fine One teaspoon of Worces- One cup of finely shredded tershire sauce cabbage Heat slowly to the boiling point and cook until the celery and cabbage are tender and then make a border around a large hot platter of cooked noodles and lift on the chop suey. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and serve. Note. — ^Make the brown sauce from the left-over gravy and bones making a stock. DELMONICO ROAST BEEF Have the butcher cut the seventh and eighth rib from a roast, removing the chine bone. Now have him remove the blade and meat between it and the skin, cutting off the top of the ribs. This gives you a heart-shaped piece of very tender beef. It is really the eye of these two ribs. Place the roast in a pan and dust lightly with flour, and then place in a hot oven for thirty minutes to start cook- ing. Now reduce the heat and cook, allowing twenty min- utes to the pound, counting the time from the minute you reduce the heat. Use the top of the ribs and the piece of meat from the MODERN COOKING 283 blade for the pot roast or a beef a la mode. Have the butcher remove the blade and roll the flap-like piece around the ribs, fastening it with a skewer or the entire piece may be boned and rolled. BAKED SLICE OF HAM Have the butcher cut the ham in one-inch thick slices. Trim and then cut around the edges every two inches apart to prevent curling. Place on a baking dish and pour over the ham One cup of water Two tablespoons of syrup Bake in slow oven 25 minutes. ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB Have the butcher bone and roll the shoulder and then when ready to use wipe with a damp cloth and pack with the following mixture : Chop very fine Four branches of parsley Three onions One leek Pat with flour and then roast in the oven, allowing thirty minutes to start cooking and twenty minutes to the pound, gross weight. Baste the meat after it commences to brown with one and one-half cups of boiling water. The season for spring lamb is from January to July. The meat is delicate and while less nutritious than mut- ton is delicious. Yearling is a splendid choice for Iamb. It is fully as nutritious as mutton, without the excess fat of mutton. Fat mutton frequently disagrees with persons of delicate digestion and therefore should be discarded from the menu, and the yearling should be substituted. The choice mutton is raised in Virginia, Pennsylvania and North Carolina, while that which comes from Wis- consin is of splendid quality. Canada also sends us some fine meat. 284 MODERN COOKING Prime mutton is large and heavy, the fat firm and white and the flesh a deep red in color and very finely grained. This meat contains fully as much nutriment as beef. Soups and broths made from mutton when the fat is removed are very wholesome and are frequently ordered in diets by physicians. Mutton should be hung for a short period to ripen, but lamb should be used a short time after it is dressed. The cuts in the side of lamb or mutton usually num- ber six: (i) The neck, (2) the chuck, which includes some of the ribs as far as the shoulder blade, (3) the shoulder, (4) the flank or breast, (5) the loin and (6) the leg. In some parts of the country the butcher makes a cut, using the rack end of the loin and chuck for making the rib or French chops. The term chops is intended to designate meat cut from the rack or loin into chops, pref- erably one and one-quarter inches thick. Where the meat is cut with nine ribs on the loin, the shoulders and balance of the chuck is cut into chops for panning or braising. These chops require longer time for cooldng than those cut from tiie rack or loin. ACCOMPANIMENT FOR LAMB AND MUTTON Serve with a roast shoulder or leg of lamb, mint sauce, green grape jelly, peas or asparagus and baked potatoes. With mutton or lamb chops serve green grape jelly, mint or currant jelly. Mutton may be boiled and served with caper or soubis (onions) sauces, currant jelly sauce, boiled or mashed potatoes, peas, string beans, asparagus, stuffed tomatoes and cole slaw. HOW TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN LAMB AND MUTTON Look first at the joint above the hool. In lamb this MODERN COOKING 285 joint is serrated or tooth-shaped when broken, while in the yeariing and mutton it is the smooth oval ball-and- socket joint. In lamb the bones are pinkish in color; in mutton the bones are a blue-white color. The pinkish colored skin should be removed from lamb and yearling before cooking. This skin contains the woolly flavor. BONE AND STUFFED SHOULDER OF LAMB Have the butcher bone the shoulder of lamb and then wipe with a damp cloth. Now prepare a filling as fol- lows: Mince fine sufficient parsley to measure one-half cup. Place in a bowl and add One green pepper, minced Two teaspoons of salt fine One teaspoon of pepper Two onions, minced fine One-half teaspoon of sweet One cup of fine bread marjoram crumbs Mix and then spread the filling and roll, tying securely. Now pat just sufficient flour into the meat to cover. Place on a rack in the baking pan and put in a hot oven. Just as soon as the meat becomes brown commence the basting with one cup of boiling water. Reduce the heat to a moderate oven. The time to cook : Allow the meat thirty minutes for heating, so as to start cooking, and then twenty minutes to the pound, coimting gross weight. Keep the fact in mind that the rolled and filled meat requires more time than just the plain shoulder. To roast the shoulder unboned allow one-half hour to start cooking and then fifteen minutes to the pound. The leg of lamb may be boned and rolled or rolled and filled, and then cooked just Hke the shoulder. BENGAL CURRY OF LAMB Use the broken and coarse pieces of meat from the roast lamb. Chop fine and then place in a saucepan and 286 MODERN COOKING add just sufficient water to barely cover. Now add One onion, minced fine fine One green pepper, minced Four branches of parsley Cook slowly until the meat is very tender. Now thicken the gravy, using cornstarch, and season with One teaspoon of Worces- One teaspoon of paprika tershire sauce One-half teaspoon of curry Four tablespoons of catsup powder Two teaspoons of salt Make a border of cooked rice on a hot platter. Lift the curry into the centre of platter and garnish with one hard-boiled egg, chopped fine. BAKED EMINCE OF LAMB IN GREEN PEPPERS Mince the left-over portion of roast lamb fine, then measure and add any filling that may be left over. Place in a saucepan and add just sufficient boiling water to cover. Cook slowly until tender and then thicken the gravy. Now to one cup of the cold meat add One cup of boiled rice Three onions, chopped fine One cup of canned One tablespoon of salt tomatoes One teaspoon of paprika Mix and then fill into the prepared peppers. Set in a baking pan and add one cup of boiling water. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Serve with cheese sauce. Boiled mutton or lamb may be used in these dishes to replace the roast meat. HOW TO USE LEFT OVER LAMB Cut slices from the roast lamb and then line a large platter with crisp leaves of lettuce. Place on the platter the slices of meat. Serve with mint or currant jelly. Use the uneven pieces for curry of lamb or a baked emince of lamb, with green peppers and vegetable salad. MODERN COOKING 287 LAMB BOILED WITH RAVOLI Have the butcher cut for stewing one pound of the neck of Iamb. Wash and place in a saucepan and add Three pints of cold water One carrot, cut very fine One fagot of soup herbs Two onions, chopped fine Cook very slowly until the meat is tender and then strain off the broth. Cool, then pick the meat from the bones. Chop the meat very fine and add One and one-half teaspoons One green pepper, chopped of salt fine One teaspoon of paprika One egg Two onions, grated Mix thoroughly and then prepare a dough as follows : Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of flour Three tablespoons of finely One teaspoon of salt minced parsley One teaspoon of paprika Mix by rubbing between the hands and then use one large egg and five tablespoons of water to make a dough. Knead until very smooth and then roll out as thin as paper. Cut into four-inch squares and brush the edges with water. Place a spoonful of prepared meat on the dough and then fold over and press the wet edges of the pastry tightly together. When all are ready drop in a large saucepan of boiling water. Cook for fifteen min- utes and then lift with a skimmer; place in a dish and pour over the heated and seasoned Iamb broth; then sprinkle over all four tablespoons of grated cheese and two tablespoons of finely minced parsley. LAMB HARICOT Soak one pint of lima beans overnight and then look over carefully in the morning. Parboil and then place in a baking dish with 288 MODERN COOKING One-half cup of diced ton cut into cutlets onions One cup of canned totna- One pound of neck of mut- toes Season with salt and pepper and add sufficient boiling water to cover all. Plac6 in a moderate oven and bake for three hours. INDIVIDUAL LAMB POTPIES Mince the meat left on the leg of lamb. Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water, adding One carrot, diced Pour potatoes cut in Four onions halves Cook slowly until the vegetables are soft; lift the onions and potatoes and thicken the gravy and season with Two teaspoons of salt fine One teaspoon of pepper One tablespoon of Worces- One green pepper, chopped tershire sauce Place portion of the meat, two potatoes, one onion and some gravy in individual baking dishes. Cover with a crust of pastry and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. SPANISH MACARONI Mince fine Three green peppers Two tomatoes Four onions Now place five tablespoons of fat in a frying pan and add the prepared vegetables and cook slowly until ten- der without browning, and then add one-half package of cooked macaroni and Two teaspoons of salt One-half cup of gravy front One teaspoon of pepper the kidney stew Cook slowly for fifteen minutes. MODERN COOKING 289 FALL MENU BREAKFAST Oranges Cereal and Cream Creamed Beef in Popover Cases Coffee DINNER Radishes Sliced Cucumbers Kidney Pie Spanish Macaroni Cole Slaw Buttered Beets Orange Pudding Coffee SUPPER Rice Croquettes with Cream Beef Sauce Cole Slaw Orange Shortcake Tea HOW TO PREPARE RECIPES POPOVERS Place the popover pans in the oven to heat. Break one egg in a measuring cup and then fill with milk and turn into the mixing bowl and add One cup of sified flour One-half teaspoon of salt Beat with a Dover egg-beater for five minutes and then remove the smoking hot popover pans from the oven and grease well. Pour in the batter "and place at once in a hot oven and bake for thirty-five minutes. Do not open the oven door for ten minutes after the pop- overs are placed in the oven. When the popovers are twenty-five minutes in the oven, turn down the gas and then bake slowly to thoroughly dry out for the balance of the time allowed for baking. This amount will make eight small or six large pop- overs. Now, while the popovers are baking, the creamed beef can be prepared. Cut one-quarter pound of dried beef fine, using a pair of scissors to cut with. Place in a pan and cover with boiling water and let stand for five minutes. Drain and then make a cream sauce as follows : 290 MODERN COOKING Place one and one-half cups of milk in a saucepan and add six tablespoons of flour and stir to dissolve, and then bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Add the pre- pared dried beef and two tablespoons of finely minced parsley and let simmer slowly until the popovers are ready. Cut a slice from the tops of the popovers and fill them with the prepared creamed beef. Place a tiny dot of butter on top of each popover and dust lightly with pa- prika. KIDNEY PIE The meat pie can be made to be an economical dish. These pies are served in the Chelsea Coffee House in London. Remove the fat and tubes from one large beef kidney and then cut into pieces the size of a walnut. Place in a saucepan and add three cups of boiling water and let simmer slowly for ten minutes. Turn into a colander and let the cold water run on the kidney for five minutes. Now return the kidney to the saucepan and add One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of sweet thyme marjoram Four onions, cut in pieces Cook slowly until tender and then add sufficient boil- ing water to cover. Add the dumplings, made as follows : Strain gravy from the kidney and add sufficient water to measure three and one-half cups. Place in a saucepan and when boiling add the dumplings, made as follows. Place in a mixing bowl One cup of mashed One teaspoon of paprika potatoes Three tablespoons of One cup of flour grated onion One tablespoon of baking Two tablespoons of finely powder minced parsley One teaspoon of salt One egg MODERN COOKING 291 Work to a smooth paste and then form into balls the size of a large walnut, and drop into the prepared stock and cook for ten minutes. Lift and thicken the gravy slightly. Now make a pastry as follows : Three cups of flour Two teaspoons of baking One teaspoon of salt powder Sift and then add the one-half pound of finely chopped suet and rub it into the flour well. Mix to a dough with two-thirds cup of water and roll out one-quarter inch thick on a floured pastry board. Line a large baking dish or individual custard cups. Now put a layer of kidney in the bottom and season with salt, pepper and finely minced onion. Place a dumpling on top and then a layer of thinly sliced hard-boiled egg. Cover with well- seasoned gravy and then with a crust, brushing the edges of the crust well with water. Now cut two gashes in the top of the crust to permit the steam to escape and then brush the top with water. If a large pie, bake for one hour; if individual ones, bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Use three eggs in the kidney pie. ORANGE PUDDING Place in a mixing bowl One-half cup of sugar Four tablespoons of Yolk of one egg shortening Cream well and then add the juice and pulp of two oranges, which should measure three-quarters cup, and One and one-quarter cups Three teaspoons of baking of flour powder Beat to mix and then turn into well-greased and floured mould and cover the mould. Boil for one hour and then serve with the following sauce : Three-quarters cup of Grated rind of one orange sugar Two tablespoons of corn- One-half cup of water starch Juice of one orange 292 MODERN COOKING Stir to dissolve the sugar and starch and then bring to a boil and cook for three minutes and serve. RICE CROQUETTES WITH CREAM BEEF Mould well-seasoned cooked rice into croquettes ; then dip and flour and brown in hot fat. Make a cream sauce as follows : Place in a saucepan Two cups of milk One-half cup of flow Stir to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Add one-half pound of dried beef, prepared as for breakfast, and serve with the croquettes. ORANGE SHORT CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One cup of flour powder One-half teaspoon of salt Five tablespoons of sugar Two teaspoons of baking One-half cup of water Beat to a stiff dough and then spread on a well-greased and floured layer-cake pan, making the dough higher at the sides than in the middle of the pan. Cover with sliced oranges, cut into small pieces with a sharp knife. Now place in a bowl Six tablespoons of brown One-half teaspoon of nut- sugar meg Two tablespoons of flour Mix well and then spread on the shortcake and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Much of the actual preparation of the menu can be prepared on Sat- urday. Use yolk of one &gg for making dressing for cole slaw. For orange cake use White of one egg One-half glass of jelly MODERN COOKING 293 Place in a bowl and beat until mixture holds its shape. Pile on orange shortcake. HALLOWE'EN On Hallowe'en the good fairies are permitted to make themselves visible to their many friends — so the tra- ditions of Ireland tell us. And the little ones, as they are called by the romantic fun-loving Irish nation, play a great many tricks this night on their enemies and they reward their ti-ue friends with many blessings. It is truly a wonderful night for the romantic maiden to delve into the future and find, or try to find, her luck when seeking for the knowledge of her future life part- ner. In those good old days of long ago, the lad and lassie spent a pleasant evening trying all the lucky spells to insure them success in their love affairs for the com- ing year. And in the midst of much hilarity many games are played; there are bobbing and ducking for apples, spin- ning the plate, post-office, heavy, heavy, what hangs over and forfeits. These were some of the old-fashioned ways the boys and girls of yesteryear passed a happy evening. Other old legends told that this one night in the year the spooks or ghosts were permitted to roam the earth, so that, to escape their notice, all must go masked — hence our young folk disguised themselves and wandered forth from house to house, seeking entertainment; for many informal parties were held on this eve and no one was refused admission ; each visitor was treated to apples and nuts and then he wandered on his way. Let your young folk entertain their friends with a good old-fashioned Hallowe'en party; let them play the old games of long ago, and then close to the magic hour of midnight serve a real old-fashioned Hallowe'en supper. 294 MODERN COOKING SOME SUGGESTIVE MENUS No. I. Salted Nuts Cider Olives Sardines and Potato Salad Jack o' Lantern Cakes Coffee No. 2 Cider Cup Radishes Celery Gloucester Cod a la King Cheese Sandwiches Fruit Cakes Coffee Nuts Raisins Apples No. 3. Celery Baked Virginia Ham "Salted Nuts Rolls Potato and Pepper Salad Butter Ice Cream Coffee No. 4. Radishes Fried Oysters Home-made Pickles Potato and Celery Salad Rolls and Butter Fruit Ginger Bread Coffee Have corn husks and pumpkins for the decorations; use autumn leaves, strung together, for wall decorations. Cover the table with a silence cloth and then with linen table cloth, and place in the centre of the table a new wooden pail filled with cider. Bank the sides of the pail with corn husk, golden ears of corn and autumn leaves. Now wire the handle so that it will be in an upright position. Wrap the handle with yellow tissue paper and fasten a small jack o'lantern made from a small pump- kin to the handle, so that it will hang in the well of the bucket. Arrange the table in the usual manner. Serve the cider from this well during the supper. MODERN COOKING 295 Hollow out a medium-sized pumpkin and cut in it a jack o'lantern and set bowls in the pumpkins to hold the radishes, pickles and sandwiches, sugar, etc., and make tiny pumpkins from the yellow crepe paper, filling them with hard candies for souvenirs. HOW TO MAKE THE CIDER Place in a large bowl some crushed ice and One gallon of cider Two oranges, cut into thin Three bananas, cut into slices thin slices Three baked apples, cut into bits Mix and then serve. SARDINE AND POTATO SALAD (Twenty-five Persons) Wash and then cook eight pounds of potatoes until tender and then, when cool, peel and cut into thin slices into a large mixing bowl. Now add One cup of finely chopped Two cups of mayonnaise onions or cooked dressing One-half cup of finely One-half cup of vinegar chopped parsley One tablespoon of salt One cup of finely chopped One teaspoon of pepper green peppers One and one-half teaspoons Two cups of finely chopped of mustard celery Toss to mix thoroughly and then prepare individual nests of lettuce and place three-quarters cup of the potato salad in each nest. Mould it into a cone and then lay four sardines, tail end up, against the salad. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and serve. JACK O' LANTERN CAKES Bake a sponge cake in individual or muffin pans and then ice with chocolate water icing and make the lantern face with white icing. 296 MODERN COOKING GLOUCESTER COD A LA KING (Twelve Persons) Select a three-pound piece of boneless salt cod from the center cut ; soak for three hours and then place in a piece of cheese-cloth and tie loosely, plunge into boiling water and boil for thirty minutes. Drain. Place two quarts of milk in a saucepan and add one and one-half cups of flour. Stir with a wire spoon to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Now add Two well-heaten eggs pieces and parboiled The prepared fish, broken One tablespoon of grated into flakes with a fork onion Juice of one lemon One teaspoon of paprika Two green peppers, cut into Heat slowly until very hot and then serve on toast. FRUIT CAKE Place in a mixing bowl Two and one-half cups of One cup of shortening syrup Cream well and then add Eight cups of flour mon Four level tablespoons of One teaspoon of cloves baking powder One teaspoon of allspice One cup of milk Two eggs One-half cup of cocoa Two cups of finely chopped One tablespoon of cinna- peanuts Beat to mix thoroughly and then grease and flour a baking pan and turn in the batter. Place the raisins one at a time on the top of the batter and gently press them into the dough. Bake for fifty minutes in a slow oven. Cool and then ice and decorate with Hallowe'en figures and then cut into blocks. MODERN COOKING 297 FALL MENU BREAKFAST Grapes Cereal and Cream Fried Butterfish, Creole Hashed Brown Potatoes Rolls- DINNER Water-cress Coffee Brown Potatoes Rolls Fried Tomatoes Corn Bread Grape Juice Cocktail Pot Roast Beef, Spanish Tomato Salad SUPPER Potato Salad Tea String Beans Coflfee Cream Gravy Apple Sauce BUTTERFISH, CREOLE Cleanse the fish and wash well and then drain. Now roll lightly in flour and brown in hot fat quickly. Place in a baking dish and add the following sauce : One teaspoon of paprika One-half teaspoon of thyme One cup of stewed toma- toes Four onions, chopped fine One teaspoon of salt Bake in the oven for twenty minutes and then serve from the dish. Other fish may be used in place of the butterfish. WINTER MENU BREAKFAST Grapes Cereal and Cream Virginia Griddle Cakes Syrup Coffee 298 MODERN COOKING DINNER Home-made Chow-chow Piccalilli Ye Olde-Tyme English Oyster Pye Mashed Potatoes Buttered and Spiced Beets Cole slaw Grape Tapioca Blanc Mange Coflfee SUPPER Bean Sausages Potato Salad Cream Gravy Raisin Cake Tea A nice change for the family is to give them corn muf- fins and plain rolls or biscuits in place of bread. Usually in the hurry and bustle of getting the business folk off in time in the morning and then preparing the children for school the housewife does not have the time to prepare these homey, old-fashioned breads for breakfast. The price of butter makes it almost prohibitive to use it as a spread for hot cakes, yet we all like the butter flavor. So let us follow the example of the thrifty New England woman, who puts the syrup into a good-sized pitcher and then adds two tablespoons of butter to one and one-half cups of syrup. Place the pitcher into a pan of warm water and then heat. Stir frequently, so that the butter will melt and blend thoroughly with the syrup. Just before sending to the table beat thoroughly. This not only makes a delicious spread for hot cakes and waffles and the like, but it is a real economy and a sav- ing in butter. GRAPE-JUICE COCKTAIL Place one pound of grapes in a saucepan and add three cups of water. Bring to a boil and cook until soft. Rub through a fine sieve and then sweeten and chill. Fill into cocktail glasses and serve. POT ROAST BEEF, SPANISH Place in a mixing bowl and chop fine MODERN COOKING 299 Two tomatoes Three green peppers Four onions Four branches of parsley Now add One teaspoon of paprika Mix and pack into the meat, pushing well into the roll. Roll the meat in flour and then melt the suet in a deep saucepan and add the meat. Brown well and add one-half cup of flour. Stir until well browned and then add one quart of boiling water. Cover closely and then cook, allowing one-half hour for each pound of meat, gross weight. One hour before cooking add six small onions and one carrot cut in quarters. When ready to serve, add one quart of boiling water and season to taste. This will provide sufficient gravy to use for two meals. VIRGINIA GRIDDLE CAKES Place one cup of corn riieal in a mixing bowl and add One teaspoon of salt Three tablespoons of syrup Three tablespoons of One cup of boiling water shortening Beat to mix and then add Two cups of cold water flour One egg Two level tablespoons of Two and one-half cups of baking powder Beat hard to mix and then bake on a hot griddle. BUTTERED AND SPICED BEETS Cook the beets until tender and then drain and cut into slices. Now place in a small saucepan One taMespoon of butter One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of vine- One teaspoon of paprika gar One-eighth teaspoon of Tmo tablespoons of hot mustard water Tiny pinch of cloves 300 MODERN COOKING When boiling hot, pour over the sliced beets. Use the yolk of- egg for making the dressing for the cole slaw and the white of egg and one-half glass of jelly for making the meringue for the grape tapioca blanc mange. YE OLD-TYME OYSTER PYE To prepare the crust, place in a mixing bowl Two cups of sifted flour Two teaspoons of baking One teaspoon of salt powder Sift to mix and then put one-quarter pound of suet through the food-chopper. Then rub the finely chopped suet through a fine sieve to remove the stringy parts. Now rub the suet into the flour and mix to a dough with one-half cup of cold water. Then chop and fold for two minutes. Turn on a floured pastry board and divide into two pieces. Roll out one-half of the dough until one-quarter inch thick and then turn a large plate over this dough and cut around the edge of the plate. Be sure that the plate is at least two inches larger than the top of the baking or casserole dish. Now drain the oysters and look over carefully for the bits of shell. Place the oysters in a casserole or baking dish and add the stalk of celery that has been scraped clean and then diced and cooked until tender, also One grated onion of salt Three tablespoons of One teaspoon of white parsley pepper Three cups of thick cream One-eighth teaspoon of sauce thyme One and one-half teaspoons Mix thoroughly and then make two or three small gashes in the top of the crust and cover the oysters with it, pressing the crust well against the edges of the dish. Brush the top of crust with water and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. MODERN COOKING 301 Use equal parts of the oyster liquor and milk for mak- ing the cream sauce. Chop the celery leaves as well as the stalk. Now roll out the balance of the pastry and cut into three-inch squares. Score the tops lightly with a knife or prick with a fork, and place on a baking sheet and bake a delicate light brown. Wrap in a napkin to keep warm. When ready to serve the oyster pie, place two of the squares of pastry on a plate and then lift on the oyster pie, and then place a second piece right over the crust of pie. Pour over this top piece of pastry two tablespoons of the sauce from the oyster pie. RAISIN CAKE Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of Two cups of flour sugar Pour teaspoons of baking One egg powder Four tablespoons of Three-quarters cup of shortening water Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into well- greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Now spread one- half package of raisins on top and gently press them with the back of the spoon until the dough covers them. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. TURKEY A Creole method of roasting turkey, chicken, duck or game or broiling fowl, birds or game is given below. Clean and prepare the bird to suit the taste, and when ready to cook, whether broiling, roasting or baking, lard the breast with many strips of salt pork or bacon, or fastened on with toothpicks. Place in a hot oven to sear, then turn the bird, be it large or small, on; its breast. Roast, bake or broil for three-quarters of the time on its breast, basting every ten minutes. Dredge occasionally with flour. Do not season at the beginning of cooking. 302 MODERN COOKING but delay this until the last quarter of the time allotted for cooking the bird, then turn it on its breast to brown. Finish cooking, basting every ten minutes. This method permits the heat to cook the heaviest part of the bird slowly, so that, by turning on its breast, the bony structure may receive the intense heat. Birds or fowls that are old should be steamed before roasting. This method will make them tender and juicy. FILLING AND GRAVY DRY FILLING One pint of stale bread seasoning crumbs One teaspoon of salt One large onion, minced Two tablespoons of bacon fine fat or good beef drip- One teaspoon of poultry pings Rub all together into a crumby mass, then pack into the fowl. WILD GAME FILLING Put through the food chopper enough celery tops, with leaves, to make one cupful, also : One medium-sised onion parsley, minced fine One level teaspoon of sweet One-fourth teaspoon of marjoram pepper One level teaspoon of sage One cupful of well-dried Two teaspoonfuls of bread crumbs Mix well, then fill into wild duck or goose. BAKED CHICKEN AND NOODLES Prepare the chicken for fricasseeing, cook until ten- der and then lift it. Now cook the noodles in the broth and season. Lift the cooked noodles into a baking or casserole dish. Now brown the chicken quickly on one side in a frying pan, using just sufficient shortening to prevent burning. Lay the chicken on the noodles and then thicken the broth slightly, adding MODERN COOKING 303 One tablespoon of minced One tablespoon of minced parsley onion Pour over the chicken and noodles and bake in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. APPLE AND RAISIN FILLING FOR DUCK Chop enough apples fine to measure one pint. Add One-half cup of seeded One and one-half cups of raisins bread crumbs Season with salt, pepper and sweet marjoram. Mix to- gether with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Pack into duck. GIBLET GRAVY Mince the giblets fine. Brown into two tablespoonfuls of bacon fat, adding two tablespoons of flour. Brown well, then add one quart of water. Cook slowly while the fowl is roasting for one and one-half hours. Rub through a sieve, then return to the fire and bring to a boil. It is then ready to serve. MINCED GIBLETS ON TOAST Cook the giblets for one hour in one pint of water. Put through the food chopper, adding One onion One-eighth teaspoon of One hard-boiled egg mustard, salt and pepper One-fourth cup of canned to taste tomatoes Serve on toasted strips of bread for luncheon. TURKEY MEAT BISCUITS Prepare the dough as for biscuits. Turn out on a pastry board and pat or roll out one-quarter inch thick. Spread one-half of the dough with the prepared turkey meat. Fold over the balance of the dough, press firmly. Cut with a sharp knife into squares and brush the tops 304 MODERN COOKING of the biscuits with milk. Bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Note. — These biscuits may be prepared the night be- fore and placed in a cold place and baked in the morn- ing. LEFT-OVER TURKEY UTILIZING THE LEFT-OVER TURKEY Remove the meat from the carcass, separating the white from the dark meat. Pick the carcass clean and then break the bones and place in a soup kettle and cover with cold water and add One-half cup of chopped One-half cup of diced onions carrots One fagot of soup herbs Bring to a boil and cook slowly for two hours. Strain into a bowl and this stock can be used for soups, sauces and gravies. TURKEY CROQUETTES One and one-half cups of Three tablespoons of finely very thick cream sauce minced parsley One cup of fine bread Two tablespoons of grated crumbs onion One and one-half cups of Two teaspoons of salt turkey meat One teaspoon of paprika Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes and dip in beaten egg and then into fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. TURKEY AU GRATIN Two cups of thick cream, minced parsley sauce Two hard-boiled eggs. One and one-half cups of chopped fine turkey meat One and one-half teaspoons One tablespoon of grated of salt onion One-half teaspoon of pep- Three tablespoons of finely per MODERN COOKING 305 Mix and then pour in a baking dish. Cover the top with fine bread crumbs and two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and bake for thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven. TURKEY, TERRAPIN STYLE Use the dark meat. Prepare one and one-half cup- fuls of cream sauce and then add One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of salt prepared turkey meat One-half teaspoon of white Two hard-boiled eggs, cut pepper in eighths Juice of one lemon Pinch of nutmeg Heat slowly to boiling point and then add one-half cupful of brown sauce, made from turkey stock. Add one teaspoonful of grated lemon rind and then serve. MEAT ROLL Use level measurements. This is a very nice dish for a luncheon. Place in a bowl Two cups of sifted flour paprika One and one-half teaspoons Four teaspoons of baking of salt powder One-quarter teaspoon of Sift twice and then rub in three tablespoonfuls of shortening and then mix to dough with two-thirds cup of water. Roll out on silghtly floured board one-quarter inch thick, and spread with finely minced turkey meat, which has been seasoned with One tablespoon of grated One teaspoon of salt onion One-half teaspoon of por- One green or red pepper, prika minced fine Roll for jelly-roll and pinch the edges together well. Place in well-greased baking pan and bake for forty-five 306 MODERN COOKING minutes in a hot oven. Start basting with one cupful of turkey stock after the roll has been in the oven for ten minutes. Serve by cutting in slices and then cover with cream sauce. TURKEY POT PIE Place in a baking dish a layer of parboiled and diced potatoes. Season with finely minced onion and parsley and green or red pepper, chopped fine. Now add a layer of turkey meat. Repeat this until the dish is full and then add a sauce made from One cup of milk Five tablespoons of flour One cup of turkey stock Stir until flour is dissolved in the milk and stock and bring to a boil. Season and then pour over the turkey in the baking dish. Cover the top of the dish with lattice strips of pastry. Brush with milk or water and bake forty-five minutes in a hot oven. SOME SOUPS USING THE TURKEY STOCK Made by simmering bones and carcass of turkey in sufficient water to cover. TURKEY SOUP, ITALIAN Cook three ounces of macaroni in one quart of boiling water for twenty minutes and then drain and blanch un- der running water. Place in a saucepan and add Two and one-half pints of Two onions, cut fine turkey stock Tiny bit of garlic Cook slowly for fifteen minutes and then serve with grated cheese. FAMILY THANKSGIVING DINNER FOR SIX PERSONS, FROM A NEW ENGLAND FARM HOUSE Oyster Soup Home Pickled Onions Chow-chow Boston Brown Bread Chili Sauce MODERN COOKING SOT Fish Balls Roast Turkey Brown Gravy Oyster Filling Bannocks Cranberry Sauce Baked Potatoes Mashed Turnips Creamed Onions Cole slaw Buttered Parsnips Pepperhash Corn Relish Jams, Jellies and Conserves Mince and Pumpkin Pies Coflfee Maple Fudge Preserved Plums The good old-fashioned oyster soup, made from the famous recipe that has been in the family for so many years, was served from two immense old white china tureens. Grandpa Perkins, sitting at the head of the table, ladled out the soup, and after it was placed and every one was seated, grandpa rapped the table with the big horn handle of the carving knife and every head was bowed in silent prayer while his voice was uplifted in thankful Thanksgiving fjraise, to which we all responded with a solemn amen. CHICKEN ROLL Place in a mixing bowl Three cups of sifted flour Three level tablespoons of One teaspoon of salt baking powder Sift to mix, rub in five tablespoons of shortening and mix to dough with one cup of water. Roll on pastry board to one-quarter inch thick and spread with the pre- pared filling. Roll as for jelly-roll, place in well-greased and floured baking pan and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Serve with tomato or creole sauce. PREPARED FILLING Mince the giblets fine and pick the meat from the neck and carcass, putting the skin through the food-chopper. Place in a bowl and add 808 MODERN COOKING One-half cup of molasses One level teaspoon of soda One and one-quarter cups of sour milk Two onions, grated in dice and nicely One green pepper, minced browned fine One teaspoon of salt Four tablespoons of finely- One-half teaspoon of white chopped parsley pepper One-half cup of bacon, cut Mix thoroughly and spread as directed upon the dough. BOSTON BROWN BREAD Place in a mixing bowl One-half cup of cornmeal One-half cup of barley flour One-half cup of rice flour One teaspoon of salt Beat to mix and then pour into well-greased one-pound empty cofifee cans and fill them three-quarters full. Cover and place in a deep saucepan. Fill the saucepan two- thirds full of boiling water. Boil steadily for one and three-quarters hours ; then remove the lid from cofifee can and place in a warm oven for three-quarters of an hour to dry out. Next come the fish balls — ^not the great, round old- fashioned grease-soaked ones of commerce, but the dainti- est golden brown balls the size of bantam eggs, fried in smoking hot fat and laid on snowy white napkins in piles, with sprigs of parsley stuck between them. AUNT POLLY RIVES'S ONE-EGG CAKE One egg One cup of brown sugar Cream well and then add One and three-quarter cups of flour Four teaspoons of baking Beat to thoroughly mix. Five tablespoons of shortening powder One cup of milk Add one cup of seeded MODERN COOKING 309 raisins; pour in a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan and bake forty minutes in moderate oven. REAL OLD VERMONT OYSTER SOUP, For six people. Drain one dozen oysters free from the liquid, then strain the liquid into a saucepan. Wash and look care- fully over the oysters to remove all bits of shell. Chop the oysters very fine and then return them to the oyster liquid. Add one tablespoon of butter and a tiny pinch of thyme; then heat to the scalding point and add two and one-half cups of scalding hot milk. Let come to a boil, remove from the fire and serve. Scald the milk in a double boiler. CHICKEN DUMPLINGS Remove all the meat from the left-over carcass and break the bones. Place the bones in a stock pot and add Three pints of cold water One cup of well-crushed Two onions tomatoes One faggot of potherbs Bring to a boil and simmer slowly for two and one- half hours. Strain the stock and season with Salt White pepper Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley Now place sufficient meat picked from the carcass through the food chopper to measure, when chopped fine, one cup ; place in a bowl and add One large onion, grated Two cups of sifted flour Four tablespoons of finely Three level teaspoons of chopped minced parsley baking powder One teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of One-half teaspoon of white shortening pepper One well-beaten egg Seven tablespoons of water 310 MODERN COOKING Work to a smooth dough, then drop from the table- spoon into boiling stock. Cover closely and let cook for fifteen minutes. Lift on a slice of toast and then quickly add to the stock One cup of minced chicken Then dissolve One-half cup of flour One-half cup of water and stir to blend thoroughly. Add to the stock and then bring to a boil ; cook for five minutes and pour over the dximplings. Sprinkle with finely minced parsley and send to the table at once. CHICKEN LOAF This delightful old southern dish is always welcomed by the family. Put the meat picked from the carcass and neck with the giblets, through the food chopper, about one and one-half cups. Mince fine one-half cup of bacon and sufficient onions to measure one cup. Brown the bacon and simmer the onions in the bacon fat until tender, taking care not to brown. Now add Two and one-half cups of One tablespoon of Worces- cold cooked rice tershire sauce One cup of very thick One and one-half tea- cream sauce spoons of salt One cup of fine bread One teaspoon of white crumbs pepper One well-beaten egg Mix thoroughly, then pack into well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Set the pan in a large one con- taining warm water and bake for one hour in a slow oven. Remove the pan containing the water and let the loaf stay in the moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Serve with parsley, cream or tomato sauce while hot; cut the balance cold and serve with mayonnaise or tartare sauce. MODERN COOKING 311 CHRISTMAS DINNER I Clear Tomato Soup Onion Relish Curly Celery Baked Chicken Spicy Filling Brown Gravy Cranberry Jelly Sweet Potato Pone Mashed Turnips Coleslaw Mince Pie Coffee BAKED CHICKEN Select a plump stewing chicken about five pounds and then singe, draw and wash thoroughly. Cover slowly and steam until tender; then fill with a spicy filling and place in a moderate oven to roast for one and three- quarters hours, basting every ten minutes. In order to be sure that the fowl will be sufficiently tender, remember to steam it ahead of time. CRANBERRY JELLY Wash one pint of cranberries ; then drain and place in a saucepan. Add three-quarters cup of water. Cover and cook until soft; then rub through a fine sieve. Add two cups of brown sugar and bring to a boil. Cook for ten minutes and then pour into small custard cups to mould. SWEET POTATO PONE Wash and then boil one-quarter peck of sweet potatoes. Cool and remove the skins. Place in a bowl and mash, seasoning with One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of nutmeg pepper One and one-half tea- Two tablespoons of butter spoons of salt Grease a baking pan well; then dust with flour and spread the prepared sweet potatoes in the pan about one 312 MODERN COOKING inch thick. . Sprinkle the top thickly with nutmeg and place one tablespoon of butter over the top in tiny dots. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Re- move from the oven and let stand for five minutes. Cut into squares and lift with a cake turner to a hot plate. COLESLAW Shred the cabbage fine and then chop one green pepper. Place in water to crisp. Make a mayonnaise dressing by placing on a plate Yolk of one egg paprika One teaspoon of mustard One teaspoon of sugar One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of vinegar Work to a smooth paste and then add the dil slowly at first and then faster until all the oil is thoroughly incor- porated, beating it quite hard. Add the salt to taste. Now add the vinegar to reduce to desired consistency; then drain the cabbage, turn on a cloth and let dry before pouring over the dressing. Use three-quarters cup salad oil. MINCE PIE Two cups of flour One teaspoon of baking One-half teaspoon of salt powder . Two teaspoons of sugar Place in a mixing bowl and then sift. Now rub three- quarters cup of shortening and mix to a dough with about six tablespoons of water. Divide the dough, then roll out and cover a pie plate. Use one and one-half pounds of mincemeat to fill. Cover with a crust and then wash with beaten egg. Bake in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes. Note. — To wash the pie use one-half of beaten egg, using the balance in the chicken filling. You know there is a great little story told about the pie-loving New Englanders, and as the story goes, there are only two kinds of pie, namely, " 'Tis mince and 't'aint MODERN COOKING 813 mince." So, as Grandma Perkins says, "This is aU mince." HOW TO PREPARE THE MINCE Twelve medium-sized One pound of shelled apples peanuts One-half pound of candied Three-quarters pound of citron suet One-half package of seeded One pound of dried raisins peaches One lemon Put all through the food chopper and then place One quart of syrup One pound of brown sugar in a preserving kettle and bring to a boil. Cook for ten minutes and then add the prepared fruits and suet that have been put through the food chopper and add One package of seeded allspice raisins One-half teaspoon of One tablespoon of nutmeg cinnamon One-half teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of ginger Three-quarters cup of One teaspoon of cloves strong cider vinegar One-half teaspoon of Stir to mix thoroughly, then cook for ten minutes. Cool and then fill into fruit jars. Pour one tablespoon of salad oil on top; adjust the rubber and lid and seal. Process in hot water bath for twenty minutes and then cool and store. This mince will be found to be most delicious, and it will keep until used. Grandma Perkins's grandad was a Hiram Teesdale, of Gloucester, England, and this recipe is over ^00 years old. The original recipe was named Christmas'Mynce Pye, and on the holidays, a great pye of Gloucester mynce, made by good dame Teesdale, was ai4 MODERN COOKING always sent as a tithe from the county to the good Queene Elizabeth, and in this way royal favor was conferred on this family by the queen, who was delighted with the won- derful concoction. Black walnuts and hazel nuts were used in the original recipe, but as these nuts are quite expensive, the peanuts will do just as well. CHRISTMAS GOODIES In the days of long ago, before the day of heated apart- ments and water-heated homes, the housewife used the cellar as the cold-storage room. To-day this is impos- sible. For the householder who has an outside enclosed laundry or summer kitchen, the problem of keeping the holiday delicacies is quite an easy one. But to those of us who dwell in flats and apartments, some other way must be arranged. Here are two new ideas that are worth trjdng : First, a window box on the shady side of the house. This box must be lined with asbestos paper on the inside, and then covered with the same paper and an additional covering of oil cloth upon the outside. By covering the box in this way, the housewife is as- sured of a smaller storage space of an even temperature. Neither the extreme cold nor heat will affect this box. A thick layer of newspapers may be used as a lining, be- tween the inside covering of the asbestos and the oil cloth covering upon the outside of the box. Mincemeat must be stored in a cool, dry place to blend and ripen, without the danger of freezing. This is also an ideal time for the mother to plan to have the family help her and at the same time knit the home ties very closely together. The home where the family joins in the evening to make the seasonable delicacies is a very happy one. Let the children have some of their friends in to help them with the preparations. MODERN COOKING 315 CHICKEN CUSTARD Place one pint of chicken stock in a mixing bowl and add One small onion, grated One-half teaspoon of One and one-half tea- paprika spoons of salt Four eggs Beat until thoroughly mixed and then fill into well- buttered glass custard cups and set the cups in a baking pan and fill the pan half full of warm water. Place in a slow oven to bake until firm. Remove from the oven and let stand for five minutes to settle, then loosen the edges of the custard from the cups with a knife and turn on a slice of toast and serve with parsley sauce. This is a de- licious luncheon dish. MEATLESS MINCEMEAT Place in a mixing bowl Four pounds of apples, One pound of suet, chopped chopped fine fine One pound of peanuts, Two packages of seeded chopped fine raisins One pound of dried apri- One package of currants cots, chopped fine One-quarter pound of One pound of dried candied citron, chopped peaches, chopped fine fine One-quarter pound of One teaspoon of mace candied orange peel, One teaspoon of ginger chopped fine One teaspoon of allspice One-quarter pound of One teaspoon of cloves candied lemon peel. One teaspoon of salt chopped fine One pint jar of grape or Two tablespoons of other preserves cinnamon One quart of molasses One quart of cider, boiled for fifteen minutes Mix thoroughly and then store in the same manner as for ye olde-t3rme mincemeat. 316 MODERN COOKING YE OLDE-TYME MINCEMEAT Purchase one pound of shin beef and one-half pound of good soup bones, preferably bones from the chine or rib. Wipe the meat, place it and the bones in a saucepan and add three cups of boiling water. Cook slowly with- out seasoning until the meat is tender. Cool and then pick the meat from the bones and put all the meat through the food chopper into a large bowl and add One pound of suet. One pound of shelled pea- shredded fine nuts, chopped fine Five pounds of apples. Two packages of seeded chopped fine raisins Grated rind of three One package of currants lemons Three level tablespoons of Juice of three lemons cinnamon One-half pound of candied Two level teaspoons of orange peel, shredded mace fine Two level teaspoons of One-half pound of lemon allspice peel, shredded fine One level teaspoon of One-half pound of citron cloves peel, shredded fine One level teaspoon of One pound of dried or ginger evaporated peaches. Two level teaspoons of salt shredded fine Mix thoroughly, then place in a deep saucepan One quart of syrup stock from the meat One pound of brown sugar One quart of cider One and one-half cups of One-quarter cup of vinegar Bring to a boil and cook for twenty minutes. Pour over the mincemeat and mix thoroughly. Fill into crocks or jars ; cover closely and set in a cool place, or fill it into all-glass jars and adjust the rubber and lid. Seal and then place in a hot-water bath. Process for one-half hour, at a temperature of 185 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove and MODERN COOKING 817 store in a cool place. Mincemeat that has been sterilized will keep until used. HOW TO PREPARE THE MENU Place the oysters in the ice box, near the ice, until ready to serve. Scrape and clean the celery, cutting the root into a point, then splitting it in half from root end to tip. Place in cold water and trim, then cleanse the radishes. Split the radishes into four parts, from tip to near the stem end; use a sharp knife for this purpose — ^this makes eight cuts in the radishes. Place in cold water. Wash the oyster shells and set aside until needed for serving the oysters. PLANKED SQUAB Split the squab down the back, then draw. Wash well in cold water and remove the breast bone. Place in a baking pan, rub with shortening and dust very lightly with the flour. Place in a hot oven to bake for thirty- five minutes. Baste frequently with hot water. Now lift to a hot plank and cover with strips of bacon. Split the sweet potatoes and place on each corner. Brush lightly with butter, dust with cinnamon and brown sugar. Place in a hot oven for twelve minutes. GUINEA HEN MARIE Have the butcher split the hen down the back and re- move the breast bone. Wash and wipe dry, then rub well with shortening and dust with flour. Lay in a baking pan and place in a hot oven. Baste every ten minutes with boiling water. Cook for forty minutes in a moderate oven and just ten minutes before removing from the oven cover the hen with strips of bacon and Three onions, minced fine One green pepper, minced fi,ne 318 MODERN COOKING GRILLED OYSTERS Carefully look over the oysters and remove all bits of shell. Wash and then roll in mayonnaise, dip in bread crumbs. Return to the deep shell and broil or bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. PASTRY FOR TWO Place in a mixing bowl One cup of flour powder One teaspoon of baking One-half teaspoon of salt Sift to mix, then rub in three tablespoons of shorten- ing and mix to a dough with three tablespoons of water. Chop the water into the flour, then turn on the pastry board and roll out one-quarter inch thick. Use for tarts and turnovers. Brush with milk or syrup and water and bake in a moderate oven. CAKE FOR TWO Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of Three level teaspoons of white corn syrup baking powder Yolk of one egg One level teaspoon of Pour tablespoons of water flavoring One cup of sifted flour Beat to mix thoroughly and then add two tablespoons of melted shortening, folding in carefully. When thor- oughly mixed, cut and fold the white of egg into the dough. Turn into well-greased and floured pan which has a tube in the centre and bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. SUGGESTIVE MENU FOR FAMILY HOME WED- DING 25 PERSONS, 7 O'CLOCK DINNER Salted Nuts Sweet Pickles Celery Oyster Cocktail Broiled Fresh Salmon Ravigotte Sauce MODERN COOKING 818 Roast Turkey, Brown Gravy Cranberry Jelly Candied Sweet Potatoes Asparagus Salad Pimento Dressing Ice Cream Wedding Cake Coffee Materials needed for twenty-five persons : One-half pound of almonds Three large cans of Two small jars of sweet asparagus mixed pickles Three firm heads of lettuce Twenty-five stewing One can of pimentos oysters Two large bottles of catsup Six pound cut of fresH One small bottle of salmon Worcestershire sauce One bunch of parsley One glass of horseradish Three bunches of Six quarts of ice cream, cut watercress five blocks to the quart One bunch of leeks Ten or twelve-pound wed' One bunch of thyme ding cake Two fifteen-pound turkeys One pound of coffee One quart of cranberries One pint of cream Three-pound can of white One pound of sugar corn syrup One pound of butter, Three-quarters peck of Fifty rolls sweet potatoes OYSTER COCKTAIL SAUCE Open the catsup, Worcestershire sauce and horseradish and mix well. Add one-half cup of vinegar and mix again, and use for oyster cocktail, allowing five oysters for each person. Do not put any filling in the turkey. It will then re- semble the grilled turkey of New Orleans. CRANBERRY JELLY, USING SYRUP Purchase the white corn syrup and place in a. sauce- pan and add the cranberries. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for twenty minutes, and then turn into a bowl to 320 MODERN COOKING mould. If you wish to strain out the seeds and skins, rub through a coarse sieve. If you wish to turn the cranberries from the bowl, rinse the bowl in cold water before pouring the jelly in. BUFFET SUPPER No. 1 Salted Nuts Celery Tuna Fish a la King Asparagus Salad Ice Cream Russian Dressing Cake Coffee No. 2 Olives Pickles Chicken Salad Ice Cream Rice Croquettes Cake No. 3 Apple Jelly Coffee Olives Radishes Baked Ham Sandwiches Potato and Celery Salad Ice Cream Cake Coffee FOR MENU NO. 1 Materials required: Pound of almonds Six stalks of celery Eight large cans of tuna fish One can of pimentos. One-half pound of mushrooms Six quarts of milk asparagus Six quarts of ice cream, cut five blocks to the quart Eight-pound wedding cake One pound of coffee One pound of sugar One can of milk Twenty-five rolls One pound of butter Three large cans of TUNA FISH A LA KING Open cans of fish and turn into a large bowl the sauce as follows. Place in a saucepan Make MODERN COOKING 321 Six quarts of milk Five level cups of flour Stir to blend thoroughly, then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add One can of chopped salt pimentos Two level tablespoons of The prepared mushrooms paprika Three level tablespoons of One teaspoon of pepper The tuna fish should be broken in large pieces. Heat slowly and when hot serve on thin slices of toast. TO PREPARE THE MUSHROOMS Peel the mushrooms and then cut both caps and stems in small pieces. Parboil for five minutes in boiling water and then drain and use. A heart shape may be arranged for either the square or round table. Have the shape made by a carpenter, fastening small cleats underneath to prevent its slipping off table top. The cleats must be arranged so they will catch the edge of the table. SUPPERS FOR EVENING AFFAIRS Toasted Cheese Sandwiches Gingerbread Tea Cheese and Pepper Sandwiches or Bacon and (Dnion Sandwiches Tea Scotch Rabbit Bread and Butter Tea Dry Oyster Pan Toast Cocoa Cheese and Omelet Sandwiches Tea TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES Remove the crust from a loaf of bread, and then cut into slices one inch thick. Toast and then cut American 822 MODERN COOKING cheese in slices one-fourth inch thick. Place on toast and spread lightly with grated onion. Place in the pan in a hot oven to toast the cheese. GINGERBREAD This cake can be made and baked in forty-five minutes. Place in a bowl One andf one-half cups of spoons of cinnamon molasses One teaspoon of nutmeg One-half cup of shortening One teaspoon of ginger One cup of water One-half teaspoon of Four cups of sifted flour allspice Three level tablespoons of One-quarter teaspoon of baking powder cloves One and one-half tea- Beat just enough to mix and then pour into well- greased and floured pan and bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. It can be cut and eaten while hot if desired. CHEESE AND PEPPER SANDWICHES Place in a bowl One cup of cottage cheese One-half cup of mayon- One onion, minced fine naise Two peppers, chopped fine One teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of paprika Beat to mix and then butter the bread and cut in thin slices. Place a layer of cheese mixture and then cover and cut in half. BACON AND ONION SANDWICHES Mince fine one and one-half cups of onions. Parboil until tender and then mince four ounces of bacon. Cut in dice. Toss lightly in hot pan and add the onions. Toss imtil onions are nicely browned and tender. Spread be- tween slices of buttered rye bread. MODERN COOKING S28 SCOTCH RABBIT Place one-half pound of grated cheese in a saucepan or chafing dish and add One onion, grated Worcestershire sauce Three-quarters cup of well' One well-beaten egg drained canned One teaspoon of salt tomatoes One teaspoon of paprika One tablespoon of Mix and heat until the cheese melts. Serve on the toast. DRY OYSTER PAN Allow one-half dozen oysters for each person. Look over the oysters carefully and wash to remove bits of shell. Place well-drained oysters in a saucepan and place on stove. Shake continually until cooked, usually about four or five minutes. Season with salt, pepper dnd one tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce. Lift on a thick slice of toast and pour one tablespoon of melted butter over the oysters and then divide the liquid in the pan and pour over the toast. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve. RICE MUFFINS Rub one cup of cold boiled rice through a fine sieve into a mixing bowl and add One egg shortening One cup of milk One and three-quarters One teaspoon of salt cups of flour Four tablespoons of syrup Four teaspoons of baking Three tablespoons of powder Beat hard to mix and then pour into well-greased and floured muffin pans, and bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. SPANISH BUN One and one-half cups of Three-quarters cup of sugar shortening Yolks of five eggs 324 MODERN CXX)KING Cream until light lemon color and then add Three teaspoons of baking One package of small powder seedless raisins or cur- Five cups of flour rants One cup of milk One-half teaspoon of salt Beat just enough to mix and then cut and fold in the stifHy beaten whites of five eggs. Pour into square pan which has been lined with paper and then greased and floured. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Ice with water-icing and mark off into slices with a knife while the icing is soft. VEGETABLES A LA JARDINIERE Pare and cut in dice Two carrots One cup of sliced onions One cup of celery Place in a saucepan, cover with boiling water and cook until tender; then drain, and then mince fine three slices of bacon. Brown bacon and then lift and add the vege- tables to the fat left from browning the bacon. Add One cup of canned peas One teaspoon of paprika One and one-half teaspoons One tablespoon of vinegar of salt Cook slowly for fifteen minutes. BRAISED OXTAILS The large oxtail joints or the usual oxtail may be used for this. Soak two and one-half pounds of tails in warm water for fifteen minutes and then wash well, and drain and wipe dry. Roll in flour and then brown quickly in hot fat. Now lift to a deep saucepan and add Three cups of boiling water Two carrots, cut in dice Two cups of sliced onions Cook slow.ly for one and one-quarter hours and then season with Two teaspoons of salt Four tablespoons of finely One teaspoon of pepper chopped parsley MODERN COOKING 826 No\v to serve cook three-quarters pound of macaroni in boiling water for twenty minutes and then drain and season, and place on a hot platter. Lay on top of the marcaroni the cooked oxtails and pour over all the gravy containing the onions and carrots. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and serve. POTATO PANCAKES Place in a mixing bowl three slices of bacon, minced fine, and cooked until nicely browned Three tablespoons of bacon Three-quarters cup of fat potatoes rubbed through One egg a fine sieve Three-quarters cup of miJk Four teaspoons of baking One and one-half cups of powder flour Beat hard to thoroughly mix and then bake on a griddle or fry in hot fat. BANANAS A LA JAMIQUE Peel three bananas and then cut in half. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with the juice of one lemon. Let stand for one hour to marinate, and then dip in a batter and fry until golden brown. Lay on a thin slice of sponge cake and spread the cake with pineapple jelly or jam. Pile high with fruit whip and garnish with finely chopped crystallized ginger. BOSTON BAKED BEANS Soak one pint of beans in plenty of cold water over- night and in the morning carefully wash and place in a saucepan and cover again with water. Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes, and then drain and place in a casserole or baking dish, and add One-half pound of salt toes rubbed .through a pork, cut into two-inch sieve blocks Four tablespohns of One cup of stewed toma- molasses 826 MODERN COOKING One teaspoon of salt per One onion, chopped fine One-quarter teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of pep- mustard Mix well and then add sufficient water to cover. Bake in a moderate oven for three hours. WHOLE WHEAT MUFFINS Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of buttermilk shortening One teaspoon of baking One egg soda Three cups of whole- One teaspoon of salt wheat flour Three tablespoons of Two teaspoons of baking sugar powder Four tablespoons of Beat hard to mix and then pour into well-greased muffin pans and bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven. YESTERDAY'S BRAN BREAD Place in a mixing bowl Three cups of buttermilk Three-quarters cup of One and one-half tea- syrup spoons of salt One-half cup of shorten- Two teaspoons of baking ing soda Beat to thoroughly mix and then add Four cups of whole-wheat white flour flour Two teaspoons of baking Three cups of bran powder One and one-half cups of Beat hard to mix and then pour into two well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pans and spread evenly. Let stand for ten minutes and then bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. One-half package of seeded raisins or three-quarters cup of finely chopped nuts may be added to one loaf for variety. Use when one day old. MODERN COOKING 827 BUTTERMILK CUSTARD Place in a mixing bowl Yolk of one egg One teaspoon of vanilla Two eggs extract One and one-quarter cups One-half cup of sugar of buttermilk Three tablespoons of flour Beat to a smooth batter and then pour in custard cups and set the cups in a pan of warm water, and bake in a slow oven until firm in the centre. Remove, cool and make a whip with One-half glass of jelly White of one egg Beat to a stiff meringue and then pile high on each custard. Serve ice cold, dusted with cinnamon. YANKEE PANCAKES Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of shortening buttermilk One teaspoon of baking Two tablespoons of . soda syrup One teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of Beat to mix and then add One cup of whole-wheat One teaspoon of baking flour powder One-half cup of cornmeal Beat to mix and then bake on a hot griddle. BUTTERMILK BREAD Scald two cups of buttermilk and then let cool. Put through a sieve to break up the large curds and then turn into a mixing bowl and add Four tablespoons of sugar shortening One tablespoon of salt One yeast cake dissolved in Pour tablespoons of one-half cup of water Beat hard to mix and then add eight cups of flour, and work to a smooth dough ; grease the bowl and plsice the 328 MODERN COOKING dough in it. Turn the dough over to thoroughly coat with the shortening. Cover and let rise overnight and then early in the morning punch down well and turn over for one hour. Place on a moulding board and divide into loaves. Form into the loaf and then place in well- greased pans and let rise for one hour. Bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. It is important that the temperature of the scalded and cooled buttermilk should be about 70 degrees Fahren- heit. When setting the bread overnight, be sure that it is in a place where the average temperature will be 65 degrees Fahrenheit in summer and 70 degrees Fahrenheit in winter, and which is free from drafts. BUTTERMILK DOUGHNUTS Place in a mixing bowl One cup of buttermilk One teaspoon of baking Two tablespoons of soda shortening One teaspoon of nutmeg One egg One-half teaspoon of One cup of sugar ginger Beat to mix. Now add Five cups of sifted Two teaspoons of baking flour powder and work to a smooth dough. Roll out one-half inch thick on well-floured pastry board and cut and fry until golden brown in hot fat. BUTTERMILK CHEESE PIE Place one quart of buttermilk in a pan and heat gently to about no degrees Fahrenheit. Let cool and then turn fnto a piece of cheese-cloth and let drain for two hours. Now measure one and one-half cups of whey and place in a saucepan and add six tablespoons of corn- MODERN COOKING 329 starch. Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now add One cup of sugar One teaspoon of nutmeg Yolks of two eggs One-half teaspoon of Grated rind of one-half vanilla lemon And the prepared cheese that has been draining in the cheese-cloth. Beat very hard with the egg-beater to thoroughly blend. Pour into pans which have been lined with plain pastry and bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Dust the top of the pie before placing in the oven with either nutmeg or cinnamon, and one-half cup of seeded raisins or finely chopped nuts may be added for variety, if desired. Use left-over whites of eggs One for fruit whip oysters and the like to One for dipping croquettes, be fried in deep fat SAUCES CIDER SAUCE (CHAMPAGNE SAUCE) Melt three tablespoons of ham fat in the frying pan and add four tablespoons of flour, and cook until nice and brown, then add two cups of cider. Stir until well blended and then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then season with salt and white pepper and a little nutmeg. MOCK HOLLANDAISE To one cupful of cream sauce add Yolk of one egg One teaspoon of paprika Two tablespoons of lemon One teaspoon of grated juice onion One teaspoon of salt 830 MODERN COOKING BATARDI SAUCE One cup of thick cream onion sauce Juice of one-half lemon Yolk of one egg One-half cup of stewed One teaspoon of paprika tomatoes One teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of finely One teaspoon of grated minced parsley Heat slowly, beating thoroughly to blend. Rub through fine sieve and then serve cold. TOMATO SAUCE One cup of canned toma- cold water toes rubbed_ through a Four onions, niitice'd fine sieve One carrot, cut fine Qne and one-half cups of One fagot of soup Herbs Cook slowly for twenty minutes and then add Three tablespoons of corn- One teaspoon of pepper starch One-quarter teaspoon of One tablespoon of sugar mustard dissolved in one- Two teaspoons of salt half cup of cold water Bring to a boil and then cook for ten minutes. Rub through a fine sieve and use. BROWN SAUCE To make a brown sauce, place four tablespoons of fat in a frying pan and add three tablespoons of flour. Stir until brown. Brown until a very dark color and then add one cup of stock or water. Stir until the mixture is perfectly smooth and at the boiling point for three minutes. Season as desired. CREAM SAUCE Place one cup of milk in saucepan and add three level tablespoons of flour. Stir with a fork or egg-beater until well mixed and then bring to a boil. Cool for three minutes and then stir constantly. Remoye from the fire and use. MODERN COOKING 881 BOHEMIAN SAUCE One cup of thick cream One teaspoon of salt sauce One tablespoon of fresh Juice of one-half lemon grated horseradish One teaspoon of paprika Beat to mix and then serve either hot or cold. HORSERADISH SAUCE Add two tablespoons of grated horseradish and one tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce to either cream sauce or brown sauce. MEXICAN CHILI SAUCE Split open and then remove the seeds from one dozen chilis (green peppers). Now scrape the three or four veins to remove seeds that run through the pepper lengthwise. Now drop them into boiling water for fif- teen minutes. Remove the skin and chop fine. Place four tablespoons of oil in an iron frj'ing pan and add one-half cup of finely chopped onions. Cook slowly un- til tender, taking care not to brown. Now add two tablespoons of flour. Blend well and then add the chilis and Two cups of tomato pulp sieve rubbed through a fine One cup of boiling water Simmer slowly until thick, smooth sauce. Season with salt to taste. Rub hand with salad oil, before preparing the peppers, to prevent burns. BEVERAGES To prepare chocolate as a beverage it is necessary to boil or cook it thoroughly. The mere fact of pouring boiling water or milk upon the cocoa will not cook it suf- ficiently, HOW TO PREPARE CHOCOLATE The Mexican epicure long ago discovered that to make chocolate successfully, it is necessary to beat it con- 332 MODERN COOKING tinually and he thus perfected a chocolate whip whicH is a wooden beater with a number of wooden rings fastened to it; when this is used to stir the chocolate it churns the mixture to a froth. The French use a number of switches, bound into a yrldp. The American housewife uses a flat wire whip for this purpose. Cocoa. — Place in a saucepan three-fourths cup of water and two level teaspoons of cocoa for each cup of cocoa desired. Bring to a boil and then cook for five minutes. Beat continually, then add one-fourth cup of scalded milk for each cup of cocoa. Bring to a boil again and then serve. Chocolate. — ^Use three ounces of chocolate to one quart of water. Cut the chocolate fine and then add water and stir constantly. Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Add one cup of scalded cream and then bring again to boiling point and serve. One tablespoon of whipped cream may be added to each cup just before serving. HOW TO BREW A CUP OP TEA From an old tea merchant in London I received my in- structions for making a perfect cup of tea. First rinse out the tea-pot with cold water and then fill it with boil- ing water, and let stand while you bring the water in- tended for the tea to a boil. Just before the water boils, turn out the water in the teapot and wipe dry. Then add the tea leaves and pour on the freshly boiled water. Cover the pot with a tea cosy or wrap in a towel and let stand exactly seven minutes. The tea is now ready to drink. This will give you a delicious drink of ambrosia that will delight the heart of true lovers of a good cup of tea. The use of a cosy for the teapot is to hold the heat in the pot and thus prevent quick cooling. Use one level teaspoon of tea to each one-half pint of water. Measure the water before boiling. The water must be poured on MODERN COOKING 333 the tea immediately upon reaching the boiling point. After boiling for two minutes or longer the water quickly loses its natural gases. COFFEE Many varieties abound in the market. Among the best is the Arabian, with Liberian and Maragogipe closely following. After the coffee is harvested the quality and the value depend on the care in curing and packing. Brazil supplies the United States with about 80 per cent, of all the coffee used. Mexico and Central America together furnish about 17 per cent., thus leav- ing about 3 per cent from foreign countries. Various brands of coffee known by the housewife are : Mocha Santa Java Maracaibo Rio Bogota Santa Bourbon Pedberry The first named are the most expensive, the last named the cheapest. The word "blend" when used wijji coffee means a mixing of two or more varieties, producing a coffee of various strengths and of a smooth, mellow flavor. After the coffee is roasted it should be kept in air- tight cans. Grinding is the next important step, and this must be just right to get the full strength. Coffee coarsely ground is not desirable, as it requires a long time to infuse and is therefore wasteful. A medium fine grind will be found practical for those who use the old-style coffeepot. To filter, using the percolator, the coffee should be quite fine. The water falls continually over the coffee and produces a uniform cup. How to make good coffee, using the old-fashioned coffeepot: Place one level tablespoon of medium finely ground coffee in the pot for every cup desired; add the water and bring quickly to the boiling point. Stir with a spoon and then add a small pinch of salt and four 884 MODERN COOKING tablespoons of cold water to settle the grounds. Let it stand in a warm place for five minutes ; then serve. Percolator method: Place three-quarters of a level tablespoon of finely ground coffee in a percolator for each cup desired. Add the water and then place the pot on the fire. Let the coffee filter just four minutes after the first pumping of the water in the glass top shows a coffee color. This will ^oduce an even, uniform cup of stimulating beverage. CURRANT SLING Place one box of currants in a saucepan and add three cups of water. Bring to a boil, mashing with potato masher. Cook for fifteen minutes and then strain. Add two cups of sugar and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then cool. Place one-half of the currant syrup in a tall glass and add One-half cup of crushed juice ice Six mint leavers One tablespoon of lemon and fill with carbonated water. PINEAPPLEADE Pare and grate one pineapple. Place in a saucepan and add Two cups of sugar Two cups of water Bring to a boil and then simmer slowly for fifteen minutes. Cool and then add One pint of crushed ice water One cup of carbonated Juice of two lemons EGG LEMONADE Place the yolk of an egg in a small bowl and add Three tablespoons of juice pulverised sugar One-half cup of ice'Cold Two tablespoons of lemon water Beat to mix and then pour into tall thin glasses and MODERN COOKING 886 add stiffly beaten white of egg, folding in carefully. Add four tablespoons of crushed ice and fill the glass with carbonated water. Orange juice may be used in place of the lemon juice. MINT CUP Place three sprigs of mint in a cup and add two table- spoons of sugar and crush. Now add One drop of essence of cloves peppermint One-half cup of crushed One drop of essence of ice and fill with carbonated water. GINGER ALE CUP Place in a saucepan Juice of one lemon quarter lemon Grated rind of one- One cup of sugar Simmer slowly until the sugar melts into the syrup. To use : Place three tablespoons of this prepared syrup in a tall thin glass and add One-half cup of shaved One-half cup of ginger ice ale One sprig of mint and fill with carbonated water. CREAM COFFEE SHAKE After breakfast drain the left-over coffee into a pitcher and set aside. To serve : Place in a tall glass Two tablespoons of sugar Four tablespoons of Two tablespoons of cream crushed ice One-half cup of cold coffee Stir to mix and then fill with carbonated water and place one tablespoon of marshmallow whip on top. RASPBERRY PUNCH Place one box of raspberries in a saucepan and add One-half cup of water sugar One and one-half cups of 336 MODERN COOKING Bring to a boil and cook slowly until the fruit is soft. Rub through a fine sieve and add one-half cup of mara- schino cherries, cut into tiny bits, and the liquid from the bottle of cherries. To use : Place one-half cup of the prepared raspberry syrup in a tall thin glass and add One tablespoon of lemon One-half cup of crushed ice juice Fill with carbonated water. PEACH CUP Place one quart of peeled and sliced peaches in a sauce- pan and add One pound of sugar One cup of water Cook until the fruit is soft and then rub through a fine sieve and add juice of one lemon. To use: Place one-half cup of the peach mixture in a glass and add Two tablespoons of cream One-half cup of crushed ice and fill with carbonated water. A box of straws to use in serving these iced drinks makes them doubly attractive. HOW TO PREPARE ICE CREAM Prepare the mixture for freezing early in the morning, while working in the kitchen, and then when it is cool place in the ice box to be thoroughly chilled until needed. Scald and cool the can and then place in the refrigerator. When ready to prepare the cream for freezing, place the ice in a bag and with a wooden mallet pound it fine. Now pour the prepared mixture into the cold can and place the dasher in position. Place the can in the freezer and adjust the turning crank, and give a few turns of the handle to see that everything is working easily. Now use a pint bowl for measuring and pour in three meas- ures of ice, then one of salt. Repeat this until the ice MODERN COOKING 387 and salt are above the mixture inside the can. It is necessary to be accurate if you wish to obtain good re- sults. Haphazard measuring only means failure. Turn the freezer until it begins to become difficult to turn, then re- move the dasher, using a wooden spoon to scrape and pack. You must work quickly, as it is important not to keep the can open any longer than necessary. Place a cork in the opening in the lid of the can and cover the top of can with a piece of wax paper, then put on the lid. Now drain off all the water. Repack, using four parts of ice to one part salt. Cover closely and set aside for one and one-half hours to ripen. If all preparations are made earlier in the day, it will take about one-half hour to put together the mixture and make the cream. Frozen desserts are divided into two classes, ices and ice creams. The ices include sherbets, water ices, f rappes and sorbets. Ice creams include Philadelphia cream, American and French creams, parfaits and mousses. Sherbets contain gelatine or whites of eggs and water-ice mixture. Water ices are fruit juices sweetened and diluted with water. Frappes are partially frozen water ices. Sorbet is a mixture of flavors prepared as for water ices or a frozen punch. ICE CREAM Philadelphia ice cream is made from thin sweetened cream. American ice cream is a mixture of thin cream and a custard well flavored, which is then frozen. Fre- quently junket preparations are used in this cream. French ice cream is a plain, frozen, rich custard. Parfaits are creams made from a thick syrup, egg yolks and whipped cream, packed in a mould and frozen. Mousses are heavy creams flavored and sweetened and then whipped, packed into a mould and frozen. 888 MODERN COOKING It is important to note that the can must not be over two-thirds full. All creams in the making increase in volume and therefore they must have sufficient room for churning. See that all parts of the freezer work freely before starting. If rusty or stiff use a drop or two of salad oil and then turn until it works freely. RECIPES 1 GAL— PEACH ICE CREAM Pare and cut in thin slices one quart of peaches and then add one and one-half cups of sugar and set aside for one hour. Now place in a saucepan Three pints of milk One-fourth cup of cornstarch Stir to dissolve the starch and then bring to a boil. Cook for ten minutes and then remove and add Two well-beaten eggs One pint of milk One cup of sugar Beat hard and then cool. Now crush and rub the peaches through a fine sieve, add to the prepared custard and freeze in the usual manner. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM Wash and stem one pint of berries. Crush, using a potato masher. Cover with one cup of sugar and then let stand for one-half hour. Rub through a sieve into a bowl and place in the ice box until needed. Now place in a saucepan. One and one-half quarts of One-fourth cup of corn- milk starch Dissolve the starch in milk and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then remove from the fire and add One egg sugar Three-qucurters cup of One teaspoon of vanilla MODERN COOKING 889 Beat hard and then let cool. Set in the ice box until needed. When ready to use, beat for three minutes with a Dover egg beater. Add the strawberries slowly and beat again. Pour into the can and freeze. This amount will make two servings for a family of four or five. Peaches, raspberries, etc., may be used to replace the strawberries. ORANGE ICE CREAM Three cups of milk Six tablespoons of cornstarch Place in a saucepan and stir until the starch is dissolved and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes and then remove and cool. When the mixture is cool, add One cup of strained orange One teaspoon of orange juice extract Yolks of two eggs One teaspoon of vanilla One cup of sugar extract Mix thoroughly and then pour into the freezer and start to freeze ; when about to remove the dasher add the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Give the freezer a few more turns to thoroughly mix and then remove the dasher. Secure the can so that the salt will not get into the cream. Pack in salt and ice to ripen for one and one-half hours. Use a mixture of one pint of salt to three pints of finely crushed ice for freezing. VANILLA ICE CREAM Place three cups of milk in a saucepan and add four tablespoons of cornstarch. Dissolve the starch and bring to a boil. Cook five minutes and then partially cool and add One cup of sugar One teaspoon of vanilla One cup of cream Beat to mix and then chill. Then freeze. 340 MODERN COOKING FROZEN STRAWBERRY CUSTARD A small two-quart freezer will make sufficient for the ordinary family at a very small outlay. It will require about ten pounds of ice and one and one-quarter pounds of salt. Break the ice very fine and use a bowl to meas- ure with. Allow three parts of the ice to one part of salt for the freezing mixture and four parts of ice to one part salt for the packing mixture. Make a custard by placing three cups of milk in a saucepan and adding one-half cup of cornstarch. Dis- solve the starch in the cold milk and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then remove and add Two well-beaten eggs of sugar One and one-quarter cups One teaspoon of vanilla Beat to thoroughly mix and then add one pint of crushed strawberries. Freeze and then pack, and allow to ripen for two hours. Do not fill the can that contains the cream mixture more than three-quarters full. This permits the cream to expand. FROZEN CHERRY CUSTARD Stone one quart of cherries. Place in a saucepan and add one cup of sugar. Cook in their own juice and sugar until soft. Now place in a saucepan Three cups of milk One-fourth cup of cornstarch Dissolve the starch and bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then add Three-quarters cup of Two well-beaten eggs sugar The prepared cherries Beat to mix, then chill and freeze. FROZEN PINEAPPLE CUSTARD Pare and grate one medium-sized pineapple and then place in a bowl and add one and three-quarters cups of sugar. Now place in a saucepan MODERN COOKING 341 Three cups of milk One-fourth cup of cornstarch Stir to dissolve the starch and then bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Now add two well-beaten eggs. Beat to blend well and remove from fire. Add the prepared pineapple. Beat again to thoroughly mix and then freeze in the usual manner, using about three parts ice to one part salt. Pack away to ripen for two hours. WATER ICE Soak three tablespoons of gelatine in one cup of cold water for one-half hour, then place in a hot-water bath to melt. Strain and then add one pint of fruit juice, such as strawberries, cherries, currants, grape juice or peaches, or one and one-half cups of orange juice or seven-eighths cup of lemon juice. Now place two cups of sugar in a saucepan and add one quart of water. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add the gelatine and fruit juice and then cool and freeze. These stock recipes will enable the housewife to provide variety in the way of delicious, inexpensive desserts with very little trouble. A two-quart freezer will require about ten potmds of ice and about one and one-half pounds of salt. FROZEN MARSHMALLOW PUDDING Place in a saucepan Two and one-half cups of Four tablespoons of milk cornstarch Stir until dissolved and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add Two well-beaten eggs One cup of marshmallow One cup of sugar whip Stir until well blended and then cool. Freeze, using a mixture of three parts ice to one part salt. Let stand for one and one-half hours to ripen. 342 MODERN COOKING STRAWBERRY PARFAIT Place a scant one-half glass of an eight-ounce glass of apple jelly in a bowl and add the white of one egg. Beat with a Dover egg beater until the mixture will firmly hold its shape. Place in a bowl directly on the ice. Have one cup of firm strawberries and then wash carefully to remove sand, then hull them. Turn on a cloth to drain. Place on the ice to chill. To serve, gently fold the berries into the cream and then fill into parfait glasses. Sprinkle with finely shredded cocoanut and serve. CHOCOLATE PARFAIT Place in a mixing bowl White of one egg One-half glass of apple jelly Beat until the mixture holds its shape and then fold in one cup of whipped cream and then prepared chocolate. Pour into a mould and pack with ice and salt for two and one-half hours. To prepare the chocolate : Place one cup of sugar in a saucepan and add five tablespoons of water. Heat slowly to the boiling point and then boil for one minute, then add two ounces of chocolate, cut in fine pieces. Stir until the chocolate is melted, taking care that the mixture does not boil, then add One-quarter teaspoon of cinnamon One teaspoon of vanilla Beat to mix. Cool, and add to the prepared cream. DIET TO REDUCE WEIGHT Correct eating is essential to health and because of this the proper cooking and serving of food plays an im- portant part, in either the building up or reducing of weight to a desired average. As a rule, stout people seldom realize that they are eating food that is entirely unsuited to them ; and not only MODERN COOKING 348 do they love starchy and over-rich foods, but also they frequently consume a liberal portion of sweets. Now unwise eating seldom produces its effects at once. When noticed, the body is already burdened with heavy layers of fat, that not only cause their bearer to be dis- tressed and uncomfortable, but also cause disease. Not all of us can eat every food that is put before us, but we can so arrange our menus that we will be able to balance the diet and in this way supply the body with just its required needs. Eating over-large portions of rich desserts, fatty foods and starchy products causes these foods to turn into a fatty tissue, and then be stored in the body as adipose tissue. So, in order to get good results, the person who wishes to reduce should learn to thoroughly chew all foods. By this I mean chew the food very fine, so that it will be thoroughly mixed with the saliva and then flow without much effort to the stomach. You know that all starchy foods are changed by the action of the saliva into invert sugars; they then go to the stomach where they are thoroughly diluted with gastric juices and finally passed into the intestines, where the final processes of digestion take place. This form of starch is stored by the liver and kidneys, and thus passes out to the various tissues to be held in the body as fat. To reduce this fleshy tissue it is necessary to prevent the storage of more sugars, starches and fats in the body, and to cause that which is already stored there to be gradually consumed to prevent starving. Many people who go on a diet for reducing flesh in a few days complain of great weariness, exhaustion and gnawing hunger in the pit of the stomach. A diet that cuts down the supply of food with the intention of re- ducing is extremely dangerous unless it is supervised^ by a physician. But persons who wish to make a visible reduction of flesh in a time ranging from five to six 344 MODERN COOKING weeks can do so, if they will learn the foods that cause and feed these flesh- forming tissues and learn to replace this with non-fat-forming foods. And summer time is an ideal time to accomplish a re- duction of flesh for those who wish to try it. A SERIES OF MENUS FOR ONE WEEK- BREAKFASTS (1) Blackberries, about one-half cup (no sugar or cream) Soft-Boiled or Poached Egg Two Slices of Toast (no butter) Four Leaves of Lettuce Black Coffee (2) One-half Cantaloupe Three-inch Piece of Broiled Ham Two Slices of Toast (no butter) Four Leaves of Lettuce Black Coffee or Tea with Lemon (3) Juice of one-half Grape Fruit (no sugar) Piece of Broiled Fish Two Slices of Toast (no butter) Black Coffee (4) Juice of one Orange Broiled Tomatoes Three Pieces of Bacon Two Slices of Toast (no butter) Black Coffee (5) Stewed Huckleberries (no sugar) MODERN COOKING 345 Hamburg Steak (broiled) Two Slices of Toast (no butter) Black Coffee (6) Stewed Peaches (no sugar) Omelet Toasted Whole-Wheat Bread (two slices) Black Coffee (7) Baked Prunes (no sugar) Cream Beef, about one-half Cup Two Slices of Toast Black Coffee WHAT THESE BREAKFASTS ELIMINATE The sugar and cream from fruit and coffee and the butter from the toast — ^all of which are fat-forming foods. Toasting bread dexterizes the starch and thus helps the digestion of this starchy product. Breakfast may be eaten from 7 to 8.30 a.m., and is so balanced that those who board or take their meals in restaurants may easily follow the diet. Now, during the warm weather, it is more important to eat lightly during the noon period, and for this reason a light luncheon will be provided. Those who are employed in sedentary oc- cupations should partake of a milk and egg shake, or chocolate egg and milk; and this will be sufficient until the evening meal, or for luncheon you may have (I) Plate of Lettuce Toasted Cheese Sandwich One Small Slice of Bread, Toasted (no butter) Stewed Fruit, one-half Cup Tea or Coffee (clear) 846 MODERN COOKING (2) Water-cress Tomato Salad One Slice of Toast (no butter) Baked Apple Tea or Coffee (clear) (3) Radishes Water-cress Salad With Three Slices of Bacon Brown Betty Tea or Coffee (4) Clear Tomato Soup Deviled Egg Slice of Toast (no butter)] Stewed Peaches Tea or Coffee (5) String-Bean Salad Toast (no butter) Cup Custard Tea (6) Poached Egg on Slice of Toast Cantaloupe Tea (7) Broiled Fish Lettuce Raspberries Tea Butter and potatoes are eliminated from this meal. Use skim milk, which has had its fat contents removed in MODERN COOKING 347 the cream, but which still contains the full nutritive value of the milk. (1) DINNERS Radish Water-cress Broiled Steak Spinach String Beans Lettuce One Slice of Toast (no butter) Stewed Fresh Fruit Coffee (2) Olives Radishes Broiled Fish Peas Steamed Squash Lettuce One Slice of Toast (no butter) Sliced Peaches Coffee (3) Clam Broth Baked Peppers Cream Sauce Made with Skim Milk Crushed Corn Stewed Cucumbers Lettuce One Slice of Toast (no butter) Watermelon Coffee (4) Young Onions Lamb Chops Baked Tomato Lettuce 3*8 MODERN COOKING One Slice of Toast (no butter) Cantaloupe Coffee (5) Tomato Canape Broiled Chicken Peas Steamed Cabbage Lettuce Stewed Peaches Coffee (6) Minced Clams on Toast Egg-plant String Beans Lettuce Cup Custard Coffee (7) Water-cress Pot Roast of Beef Stewed Tomatoes Lima Beans Cucumber Salad One Slice of Toast (no butter) Stewed Apricots Coffee This meal eliminates potatoes, butter and the rich heavy desserts. The portions should be about three ounces of lean meat and one-half cup of each vegetable, three leaves of lettuce. Use French dressings on all salads and one- half cup of fruit for dessert. This amount of food will not only satisfy, but also will, if persisted in, give satisfactory results in the reduction of flesh. This means that you cannot eat candy and other sweets between meals, and if you feel that you must have something sweet, try a piece of chewing gum. If fruits are too sour, try com syrup for sweetening ; about one-half cup to each quart of prepared fruit. Fresh fruits develop their own natural sweetness if they are baked instead of stewed in a saucepan. Just place them MODERN COOKING 349 in a casserole dish with this amount of syrup or plain water and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. CINNAMON TOAST Place two ounces of butter in a bowl and cream well. Add Five tablespoons of sugar One teaspoon of cinnamon extract or powdered cinnamon Cream and then spread on nicely toasted bread. FRIED OYSTERS Unless the oyster is attractive in appearance, single dipped and fried an attractive brown, it is a failure as a fried oyster; few housewives seem to be able to turn out a perfect product. Use large oysters, and look them over carefully for bits of shell. Wash and then roll in highly seasoned corn flour. Let dry off for ten minutes and then dip in pre- pared egg, and then roll in fine bread crumbs. Stand aside to dry for ten minutes. Fry only three or four at a time in hot fat. Care must be taken to have the fat suffi- ciently hot. Usually about 370 degrees Fahrenheit will do. If you do not use a fat thermometer to test the fat, then try it with a piece of bread in the following rnanner : Place a crust of bread in the fat and begin to count 101, 102, 103, 104, etc., until you reach 110; the bread should then be a deep golden brown. Then proceed to fry the oysters, keeping the fact in mind that more than three or four in at once will reduce the temperature of the fat and thus permit the oyster to soak up the grease. TO PREPARE THE CORN FLOUR One cup of corn flour Two teaspoons of salt One and one-half teaspoons of paprika Sift three times. To prepare the egg dip: 350 MODERN COOKING One egg One teaspoon of salt Six tablespoons of oyster One teaspoon of paprika liquid One tablespoon of grated One tablespoon of Worces- onion tershire sauce Beat well to mix and then use. To prepare the bread crumbs, put dried bread through the food chopper, then sift and store until needed. OYSTERS AU GRATIN, ITALIENNE Mince two green peppers fine and place in a bowl, and add sufficient celery minced fine to measure one cupful, and One onion, grated Twenty-five prepared Two cups of thick cream oysters sauce Two cups of cooked Two teaspoons of salt macaroni One teaspoon of paprika Mix and then pour into an au gratin dish. Cover with fine bread crumbs and then with three tablespoons of grated cheese. Bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. SPICED OYSTERS Look over twenty-five oysters and then place them in their own liquid over the fire land bring to a boil. Let scald for two minutes and then drain. Wash in cold water. Strain the oyster liquid back into the saucepan after measuring. To three-quarters cup of oyster liquid add One-half cup of vinegar One teaspoon of salt One onion, grated One and one-half tea^ One green pepper, chopped spoons of paprika fine Three cloves One bay leaf Two allspice One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce Bring to a boil and let cook for ten minutes. Pour MODERN COOKING 861 over the oysters into all glass jars and then seal and set in a cool place. OYSTERS en BROCHETTE Cut thinly sliced bacon in pieces the size of an oyster. Wash and look carefully over the oysters for bits of shell, then pat dry on a towel. Now thread a strip of bacon on a meat skewer and then an oyster and so on until the skewer is full, having the bacon first and last on the skewer. Fasten the ends of skewer with a small knob of potato or turnip. Dust the oysters and bacon thor- oughly with flour and lay on a baking sheet and bake in hot oven for ten minutes. Serve with chili sauce. YANKEE OYSTER PIE Two cups of diced pota- onions, diced and toes, parboiled parboiled Three mediumr-sised Grease a baking dish and then place a layer of onions and potatoes in the bottom and then a layer of oysters. Sprinkle the oysters with one-half cup of finely dited celery. Season each layer of oysters ; cover with one and one-half cups of thick cream sauce and then with a crust of plain pastry. Wash the top of pastry with cold water and bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. DEVILED OYSTERS Wash, look over and then chop fine twenty-five oysters. Place in a bowl and then add One cup of very thick One-half teaspoon of cream sauce mustard One tablespoon of grated One tablespoon of Worces- onion tershire sauce Two tablespoons of finely Two hard-boiled eggs, minced parsley chopped fine One teaspoon of salt One-half cup of fine bread One teaspoon of paprika crumbs 352 MODERN COOKING Mix thoroughly and then pour on a platter and set aside to chill. Now scrub clean one dozen deep shells. Fill with the prepared mixture and then brush with beaten egg and cover with fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. The oyster is one of our most democratic luxuries ; it is in very high favor in our most luxurious restaurants, and yet it is held in equal esteem in our most moderate-priced lunch rooms. Oysters are sold both in and out of the shell, fresh and canned, and they may be eaten and cooked in almost every conceivable way. Among the best-known varieties are blue point, Buz- zard Bays, Cape Cods, Lynnhavens, Maurice Rivers, Rockaways, saddle rocks, sea tags, Shrewsberrys and coruits and Oak Creeks. Many of these titles have really lost their real significance by trade misuses. Blue points, for example, is often, though incorrectly, applied to all .small oysters, irrespective of their source. The oyster season opens in September and continues on until May. Three sizes are usually recognized by the trade — ^half shells, the smallest culls, the medium size and the box, which is the largest. True oyster lovers really prefer the large Lynnhavens and others on the deep shell The epicure delights in eating raw oysters; and while this satisfies his appetite, it is also understood that the raw oyster virtually is assimilated without taxing the digestion. Oysters may be found \in almost all parts of the civilized world, each locality having its own special species. It is a universal custom to omit the oyster from the bill of fare during the months of May, June, July and August. We have in their places the salt oyster and the clam. Oysters may be served on either the deep or flat shell, on a bed of finely crushed ice with a slice of lemon, MODERN COOKING 868 Worcestershire sauce, catsup, horseradish or tabasco sauce. Nice crisp celery and toasted crackers generally accompany raw oysters. Do not, under any circum- stances, cover the oyster with ice. Oysters may be made into cocktails or may be frozen. TO MAKE A COCKTAIL One-half cup of catsup onion One tablespoon of Worces- Two drops of tabasco tershire sauce sauce One tablespoon of grated Juice of one-half lemon Mix well and use for four oyster cocktails, allowing five small oysters per person. FRAPPE OYSTERS Place oysters in freezer and freeze until soft mush, and then serve in cocktail or sherbet glasses with garnish of lemon and finely minced parsley. Oysters may also be prepared in many ways — stews, pans, broiled, baked, fried and roasted are among the popular ways of preparing them. DRY OYSTER PAN Wash and look over one dozen large oysters to free from bits of shell. Lay on a cloth to drain. Now place two tablespoons of butter in a clean saucepan and add the oysters and One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of celery salt paprika Bring to a boil, cook for three minutes and then turn in a hot dish and serve at once. To prepare a wet pan add one-half cupful of strained oyster juice to the dry pan. PAN A LA CROUTON Prepare a dry pan and then dish on a slice of nicely browned and buttered toast. 364 MODERN COOKING PAN A LA SUISSE Dip soda crackers in hot water and then place in a hot oven to toast. Prepare a dry pan, adding » One tablespoon of grated One tablespoon of finely onion minced parsley Three tablespoons of finely minced celery Cook slowly for eight minutes and then dish on the prepared crackers and garnish with a slice of lemon. BROILED OYSTERS Have the oysters opened in the deep shell and then re- move the oysters and wash and carefully look over for bits of shell. Roll in highly seasoned mayonnaise and then in fine bread crumbs, and return to the shell. Sprinkle with bits of finely chopped bacon and broil or bake in a hot broiler or oven for eight minutes. Serve in shell with a garnish of lemon. BROILED OYSTERS, VIRGINIA Heat the griddle very hot and then pat the oysters dry, place on griddle and let brown slightly ; turn on the other side. Lift when slightly brown, on to a piece of toast. Baste with a tablespoon of melted butter and garnish with finely chopped parsley and a slice of lemon. BROILED OYSTERS A LA MARYLAND Place the oysters in a hot frying pan and brown on both sides lightly. Lift to a piece of toast and cover with cream sauce and garnish with finely minced parsley and a slice of bacon. OYSTER FARCI Eighteen small oysters Six mushrooms, pared and One hard-boiled egg parboiled One sweetbread, parboiled Chop fine and place in a bowl, and add MODERN COOKING 355 One cup of thick cream One level teaspoon of sauce paprika One tablespoon of finely One-half level teaspoon of minced parsley mustard One tablespoon of grated Three-quarters cup of fine onion bread crumbs Four tablespoons of finely Three tablespoons of minced celery melted butter Two level teaspoons of salt Mix thoroughly and then fill into well-cleaned deep oyster shells, fill slightly about the edge of the shell. Brush with beaten egg and then with fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat or bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. OYSTER FRITTERS Chop twenty-five small oysters fine and then measure the liquid, and add sufficient milk to make one and one- quarter cups. Place in a bowl and add Two cups of flour Three tablespoons of finely Two teaspoons of baking m,inced parsley powder One tablespoon of grated One and one-half tea- onion spoons of salt The prepared oysters One teaspoon of paprika One well-beaten egg Beat to mix; then fry like fritters in hot fat. For oyster pancakes, use the oyster-fritter mixture and bake like griddle cakes on a hot griddle. SWEET POTATOES Sweet potatoes are the roots or tubes of a vine-like plant ; it is a native of tropical climate, but it is grown in states as far north as New York. The delicious yams of the southern states and the West Indies are made into many attractive foods. The food value of the sweet potato is closely allied to that of the white potato, but it 356 MODERN COOKING •contains from 4 to 10 per cent, sugar, where the ordinary white potato has no sugar. And, then, too, this common "vegetable will provide a variety of delectable dishes. SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES Wash and cook the potatoes until tender. Use six large sweet potatoes. Drain, cool and peel. Mash fine and then place in a bowl and add One tablespoon of butter One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of finely One-half teaspoon of minced parsley pepper Mould into croquettes an3 then dip in beaten egg and then in fine crumbs and fry golden brown in hot fat. Serve with cheese sauce. SWEET POTATO NESTS Cook sweet potatoes and peel and mash and then form into nests. Place the nests on a well-greased baking dish and fill with creamed dried beef. Place in the oven for ten minutes and heat. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Sweet potatoes may be used for a border for stews, for goulashes, etc. Try this method of baking the potato: Wash well, scrubbing with a vegetable brush. Dry and then grease thoroughly and place in oven to bake. This method prevents a thick coarse skin from forming with the pulp attached to it. PRENCH FRIED SWEET POTATOES Pare and cut the potatoes as for French frying and then cook in hot fat until golden brown. BROILED SWEET POTATOES Pare cold, boiled potatoes and then cut in thin slices. Dip in bacon fat and broil in a broiler until golden brown. SWEET POTATO COOKIES One cup of brown sugar Four tablespoons of shortening. MODERN COOKING 35T Cream well and then add One cup of mashed sweet One-half teaspoon of potatoes nutmeg One and one-half cups of Three-quarters cup of flour raisins One teaspoon of baking One egg powder Work to a smooth dough and then roll out on floured pastry board and cut one-quarter inch thick and then bake for eight minutes in a hot oven. SWEET POTATO BISCUIT Two cups of mashed sweet Four tablespoons of potatoes shortening One cup of mUk One egg Four tablespoons of sugar Beat to mix and then sift together One quart of flour Otie and one-half tea- Three tablespoons of spoons of salt baking powder Add to the potato mixture and work to a smooth dough. Roll on a slightly floured pastry board and cut with knife into square. Place on a baking sheet and wash Avell with milk, then bake in hot oven for fifteen minutes. SWEET POTATO PUDDING, KENTUCKY STYLE ParCi four large sweet potatoes and then cut in thin paper-like slices. Now grease a baking dish well and place a layer of prepared sweet potatoes, and then dust lightly with cinnamon and cover with four tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Repeat until the dish is full and then place. One and one-half cups of milk in a bowl And add 368 MODERN COOKING One whole egg Yolk of one egg One-half cup of sugar Beat well to mix and then add Two teaspoons of vanilla Pour over the potatoes and bake for fifty minutes in a slow oven. Add to white of egg, which has been left over for this purpose, and add one-half glass of currant jelly. Beat until the mixture will hold its shape and then pile high on the cold pudding and serve. SWEET POTATO PINEAPPLE Wash and cook until tender six large sweet potatoes and then pare and mash well and then add One tablespoon of butter One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of pepper Pile on a baking dish and mould to shape of a pine- apple. Make the pineapple eyes with the handle of a spoon and then brush with beaten egg and sprinkle witfi fine bread crumbs and then with two tablespoons of grated cheese. Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes. SWEET POTATO CAKES, GEORGIA STYLE Cook and then peel and mash sufficient sweet potatoes to measure two cupfuls. Place in a bowl and then add Two tablespoons of butter minced red pepper Two tablespoons of finely Six\strips of bacon, minced minced parsley fine and nicely broTvned Two tablespoons of finely Mould into flat cakes and roll in flour and brown in the hot bacon fat. CANDIED SWEET POTATOES Wash and cook the potatoes in their skins until tender and then drain and peel. Now place in a frying pan MODERN COOKING 359 Three-quarters cup of One-half teaspoon of syrup cinnamon Piece of butter size of a One-quarter teaspoon of walnut nutmeg Bring to a boil and then add the potatoes and then let them marinate in the syrup, turning frequently for twenty minutes. Keep the pan where the potatoes will cook slowly, adding four tablespoons of boiling water, POTATO SOUFFLE Rub two cups of mashed potatoes through a fine sieve to remove the lumps. Place in a bowl and add Yolks of two eggs paprika One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of grated onion One-half cup of milk Beat to mix and then cut and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Place in a well-greased pan and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. POTATO CROQUETTES Mince fine sufficient bacon to measure four tablespoons after chopping. Place in a frying pan and add two grated onions ; brown gently and then add Two cups of mashed One-half teaspoon of potatoes pepper One teaspoon of salt Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes. Roll in flour and then dip in beaten egg and roll in fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. WHITE POTATOES POTATOES AU GRATIN Cut cold boiled potatoes into dice and then season with salt and pepper and place a layer in a baking dish. 360 MODERN COOKING Sprinkle with fine crumbs and one tablespoon of finely minced onion, two tablespoons of finely minced parsley. Place in a second layer and season, then pour over the last layer two cups of cream sauce. Sprinkle with fine crumbs and a little grated cheese and bake in a moderate oven twenty-five minutes. POTATO CUSTARDS Rub one cup of mashed potatoes through a fine sieve into a bowl and add One cup of milk One teaspoon of salt Two well-beaten eggs Pinch of mace Mix thoroughly and then turn into a baking dish and bake in a moderate oven until firm, usually about twenty minutes. POTATO CUP FOR SALAD Boil medium-sized potatoes in their jackets. Cool and then peel. With a teaspoon scoop out a well in the centre, leaving a thin wall of potato. Now trim neatly in shape. Place in a bowl and marinate in French dressing, turning frequently so that each position may be seasoned. Now prepare a filling as follows : One cold boiled beet, cut Three tablespoons of fiitely into tiny dice minced parsley One-half cup of cooked One-half cup of cold boiled peas potatoes, cut into tiny One onion, grated dice Toss the vegetables gently to mix. Season with salt and pepper and reduce four tablespoons of mayonnaise with two tablespoons of vinegar. Fill into the potato cups and place in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise and serve ice cold. MODERN COOKING 361 NEW METHOD OF MAKING FRENCH FRIED POTATOES Cut large cold boiled potatoes into cubes as for French fried potatoes and dust lightly with flour and brown quickly in hot fat. This method prevents the potato fromi being soggy in the centre. POTATO CRUST FOR MEAT PIES Mash boiled potatoes and then rub through a sieve ta remove the lumps. Now add to One quart of prepared Two teaspoons of bakinff potatoes powder Three tablespoons of One teaspoon of grated shortening onion Two teaspoons of salt One well-beaten egg One teaspoon of paprika Six tablespoons of milk Beat thoroughly to mix and then spread in a layer about one inch thick on meat pies. Brush the top with milk and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. POTATO DUMPLINGS Grate four large cold boiled potatoes into a mixing bowl and add One and one-half cups of One small onion, grated flour Three tablespoons of finely One and one-half tea- minced parsley spoons of salt One egg One teaspoon of pepper Three tablespoons of water Mix to a smooth dough and then form into balls the size of an tgg. Drop into boiling water and cook for fifteen minutes. Lift and drain well and serve with either brown stew or cheese sauce. BAKED POTATOES Select large, well-shaped potatoes, and wax and grease thoroughly with shortening and place in the oven or 362 MODERN COOKING broiler to bake. When done, cut a slice from the top and scoop out the contents of the baked potatoes into a bowl. Mash the potatoes and add a little milk, salt and pepper to taste and one tablespoon of butter to each potato. Beat until they are very light and fluffy and then fill back into the potatoes, piling up high. Place a strip of bacon on top of the prepared potatoes and place in a hot oven to brown the bacon. Dust with paprika and serve. POTATO SALAD Six boiled potatoes, diced Three onions, chopped fine Two green peppers, chopped fine Place in bowl and mix; then add One cup of mayonnaise One-fourth cup of vinegar dressing One tablespoon of salt One teaspoon of paprika Serve. JELLIED POTATO SALAD Prepare one quart of thinly sliced cold boiled potatoes and then add Two cups of lettuce. Five tablespoons of finely shredded very fine chopped parsley Three medium-sized Two teaspoons of salt onions, chopped fine One-half teaspoon of white Two green peppers, pepper chopped fine Cover with Three-quarters cup of mayonnaise dressing One-quarter cup of vinegar Toss gently to mix. Now chill a baking pan by placing on ice. Make two quarts of lemon gelatine. Pour some gelatine in the pan and turn it so as to make one-half -inch coating of gek- MODERN COOKING 363 tine all over the pan. Now spread on the potato salad in an even layer. Pour over the salad a little gelatine every few minutes to fill the crevices and cover the top. Set aside to mould and then when ready to serve, dip the pan in warm water for a few minutes and then unmould on a pastry board. Cut into squares and place in a nest of crisp lettuce leaves and garnish with a teaspoon of mayon- naise dressing. GUTNEY RUN POTATO CAKE Mince fine sufficient salt pork to measure one-half cup. Place in a frying pan and add three-quarters cup of chopped green onions. Cook slowly until tender, and then add one quart of mashed potatoes, well seasoned. Mix well and then turn into a bowl. Cool, and then form into cakes and roll in flour, and brown in hot pork fat. Serve with well-seasoned cream gravy. HASHED-BROWN POTATOES Peel cold boiled potatoes and then cut in one-quarter- inch dice. Dust well with flour and then place four tablespoons of shortening in a frying pan and when smok- ing hot add the potatoes. Toss gently until nicely browned and add the seasoning. CORN Nowhere do they cook corn as tender as it is usually prepared in the corn belt. Select full, well-shaped ears of corn and remove the husk, leaving just the last layer. Now fold back this layer of husk and remove all the silk from the corn, using a stiff vegetable brush for this pur- pose. Refold the husk about the corn and cook it. How to cook the corn: Have a large kettle contain- ing plenty of boiling water. Add one teaspoon of sugar, add corn and boil twelve minutes for small ears and fifteen to eighteen minutes for large ears; cover pot closely. 364 MODERN COOKING BAKED TOMATOES Cut a slice from the top of the tomato and with a spoon remove the centres. Chop the centres fine and then place in a bowl and add One onion, grated One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of finely One teaspoon of paprika chopped parsley Three-quarters cup of fine One well-beaten egg bread crumbs Three tablespoons of melted shortening Grease the tomatoes to prevent bursting and then fill, forming into a point at the top. Place in a greased baking pan and add one-half cup of hot water. Bake for forty minutes. TOMATO FRITTERS Cook a sufficient amount of tomatoes to measure two cups, adding One onion, grated One-half cup of corn- Two teaspoons of salt starch, dissolved in One teaspoon of pepper One-half cup of cold water Pinch of cloves Cook until thick and then pour into a shallow pan and set in a cool place to mould for four hours. Cut into ob- longs and then dip in beaten egg and roll in fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. TOMATOES AU GRATIN Slice six medium-sized tomatoes in thin slices. Place a one-half inch layer of bread crumbs in a small baking dish, then a layer of tomatoes, then the bread crumbs and again the tomatoes. Repeat this until the dish is full. Pour over it one cup of thick cream sauce and sprinkle with fine crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty- five minutes. MODERN COOKING 366 ROAST TOMATOES When preparing the roast for dinner wipe four toma- toes and then place them in the pan and roast with the meat, basting frequently. GREEN TOMATOES MINCE FOR PIES Cut one-quarter peck green tomatoes in small pieces and then sprinkle with three tablespoons of salt. Place in a square of cheese-cloth and then tie up and hang where it can drain all night. In the morning place a one and one-half pound can of corn syrup in a saucepan and add One-half pound of brown One-half teaspoon of sugar allspice One tablespoon of One-half teaspoon of cinnamon ginger One teaspoon of nutmeg Two packages of raisins One-half cup of salad oU Bring the mixture to a boil and then cook slowly for one-half hour. Fill into jars and then process in a hot- water bath for twenty minutes. Seal and test for leaks. Store in a cool, dry place. This makes a delicious pie filling. TOMATO DUMPLINGS Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of flour pepper One teaspoon of salt Four teaspoons of baking One-quarter teaspoon of powder Sift to mix and then rub in four tablespoons of short- ening and use two-thirds of a cup of water to make a dough. Divide into five parts and then roll each piece into squares. Place in the center of each one a peeled tomato, cut in slices, and season with a little grated onion, parsley, salt and pepper. Fold the dough over. Place in a baking 366 MODERN COOKING sheet and brush the tops with beaten eggs. Bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes. Serve with cheese sauce. STUFFED TOMATOES WITH CHICKEN SALAD Prepare the chicken sandwich filling. Select firm, medium-sized tomatoes and then cut a slice from the top, and with a spoon scoop out the centres of the tomatoes. Fill with the salad sandwich mixtures and then roll in wax paper. BAKED TOMATOES (COLD) Select firm tomatoes. Cut a slice from the top and then with a spoon carefully scoop out the centres. Rub the outside of the tomatoes with plenty of shortening. Place in a baking dish and pour into the dish holding the tomatoes one-half cup of water. This will prevent the skin from bursting. Now place in a bowl Four eggs onion Three-quarters cup of milk One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of finely One-half teaspoon of minced parsley paprika One tablespoon of grated Beat to mix and then pour into the tomatoes. Bake in a moderate oven until the custard is firm in the centre. Cool and then set on ice to chill. Serve with Russian dressing. CRANBERRY ROLL Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half cups of Two teaspoons of baking flour powder One-half teaspoon of salt Sift to mix and then rub in four tablespoons of short- ening and mix to a dough with the following mixture: Place in a cup Three tablespoons of syrup Three tablespoons of water Blend well and then roll the dough out one-half inch MODERN COOKING 367 thick on a floured pastry board and cover with the cooked cranberries. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Roll as for jelly roll, tucking the ends in well. Place in well-greased baking pan and brush the top with milk. Bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with vanilla sauce. NECK CHOPS IN CASSEROLE Have the butcher cut one and one-half pounds of neck chops into four pieces and then wipe with a damp cloth. Roll in flour and brown quickly in hot fat. Lift to a casserole dish and add One cup of finely chopped chopped parsley onions One and one-half cups of Four tablespoons of finely brown gravy Cover the dish close and place in a slow oven for one and one-half hours. Make a brown gravy by adding four tablespoons of flour to the fat left in the frying pan after browning the meat ANGEL CAKE Sift One cup of flour One level teaspoon of Three-quarters cup of cream of tartar sugar Sift five times and then beat the whites of five eggs stiff and cut, and fold in the sugar and flour mixture. Turn into a greased tube pan and bake for forty minutes in a moderate oven. MAKING SCRAPPLE AND HOGSHEAD CHEESE When the family is small, thrifty women usually make the scrapple and hogshead cheese at the same time. Have the butcher select for you a nice hogshead; split and remove the eyes, brains and tongue. Now scald and cleanse well, rinsing in plenty of cold water. Place in a preserving kettle and add just sufficient cold water to cover the head. Now add 368 MODERN COOKING Two onions One hunch of pot or soup Two cloves herbs One level teaspoon of poultry seasoning Cook slowly until the meat will leave the bones, then place a colander in a large bowl or pan and turn in the head. Measure the liquid and return to the pot. Now re- move the bones from the head and chop sufficient meat very fine to measure three cups and set aside for making the scrapple. Cut the balance of the meat into pieces about one inch square and place two cups of the stock in a small sauce- pan. Add Juice of one lemon or spoons of salt Six tablespoons of cider One teaspoon of white vinegar pepper One and one-half tea- Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Add the head meat that has been cut into the inch pieces. Rinse loaf-shaped pans with cold water, pour in the cheese and set aside in a cool place to mould. Use the same as cold cuts of meat with mustard or horseradish sauce. THE SCRAPPLE Add the three cups of finely chopped head to the stock in preserving kettle and bring to a boil. Now add, for each quart of liquid, Two-thirds cup of One-half cup of buckwheat commeal One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of white pepper Mix and add very slowly, stirring constantly. When it is sufficiently thick to hold the spoon upright, rinse the baking pan with cold water and then pour in the scrapple. Sejt aside for twenty-four hours to mould. This can be used for breakfast by cutting into slices and frying a MODERN COOKING 369 crisp brown or made into croquettes, rolled in flour and nicely browned in hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce. YE KENTUCKY CORN DODGERS Place in a saucepan One and one-half cups Two-thirds cup of corn- of boiling water meal One teaspoon of salt Stir to mix thoroughly, then cook for twenty minutes and cool. Form into sticks the size of a bread stick, roll in flour and brown in hot fat. YE OLD VIRGINIA BATTER BREAD Place in a mixing bowl One cup of cornmeal Four tablespoons of syrup One-half teaspoon of Three tablespoons of nutmeg shortening One teaspoon of salt Pour over one and one-half cups of boiling water. Beat to blend thoroughly, then let cool and add Three-quarters cup of flour Four level teaspoons of Two well-beaten eggs baking powder One and one-quarter cups of milk CORNMEAL SAUSAGES Place in a saucepan One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of salt boiling water One teaspoon of white One cup of finely chopped pepper onion One-half teaspoon of One cup of finely chopped poultry seasoning left-over meat Two-thirds cup of comtneal Stir well to prevent lumping and cook slowly for one- half hour. Turn into a bowl and let cool. Form into sausages, then roll in flour and brown in hot fat. Serve with brown gravy, cream or tomato sauce. 370 MODERN COOKING CHILI SAUCE Place in a preserving kettle Two quarts of stewed One and one-half table- tomatoes spoons of cinnamon Two cups of finely sliced Two teaspoons of cloves onions One teaspoon of allspice One cup of finely chopped Two teaspoons of celery green peppers seed One-half cup of finely Two teaspoons of mustard chopped sweet red seed peppers One teaspoon of ginger One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of mustard vinegar Four tablespoons of salt One cup of brown sugar Stir to thoroughly mix and then cook until very thick. Cool and then rub through a fine sieve. Pour into sterilized jars and adjust the rubber and lid and seal. Process for twenty minutes in a hot water bath. Re- move, cool and then store in a cool, dry place. SAUERKRAUT Remove the coarse, bruised outside leaves of the cabbage and then shred the head fine, using a slaw cutter. Now line the bottom of a small barrel or wooden bucket with the outside leaves and then place in a layer of the shredded cabbage and cover with salt. Repeat until the utensil is nearly full, pounding down well with wooden mallet when packing. Sprinkle the salt over the top and cover with large cabbage leaves and then with a cheese-cloth wrung out of salt water. Tuck in the ends carefully and then place board on the kraut and weight it down with a heavy stone. Now, it is necessary that the cabbage be covered with brine ; remove the scum as it rises to the top. The kraut will be ready for use in six weeks and it must be kept in a very cool place or it must be canned. MODERN COOKING 371 TO CAN SAUERKRAUT Fill into sterilized all-glass jars and then fill the jar to over-flowing with boiling water. Adjust the rubber and lid and partially tighten. Process in hot water bath for one hour, then remove and seal securely. Store in a dry, cool place. BRINING CAULIFLOWER Prepare the cauliflower as directed above, using a large keg or crock. Pack the cauliflower head down until the keg or crock is three-quarters full and then fill to over- flowing with brine made as follows: Place in a boiler Eight quarts of water Eight cups of salt Bring to a boil and skim, then cool. Cover the cauli- flower with a piece of clean cheese-cloth and then place on it a board which is weighted down on top, to keep the cauliflower covered in the brine. This weight need not be as heavy as that used for the kraut. Cauliflower prepared in this manner late in October and November can be used for the table by freshening it in water and cooking in a manner similar to that in which the salted beans are cooked, or it may be canned in three months, when there will be a supply of fruit jars. To can the brined cauliflower, remove from the brine and wash in cold running water. Let stand for one hour and then fill into the sterilized jars; fill jars with boiling water; adjust the rubbers and lids and partially seal. Place in a hot-water bath and process for one hour. Remove, seal securely and then cool and store in a cool, dry place. NECK OF BEEF, POLISH STYLE Select one pound of meat from the neck and wipe with a damp cloth. Roll in flour and brown quickly in hot fat. Place in a saucepan and add one-half cup of flour to the fat left in the frying pan. Brown well and add one quart 372 MODERN COOKING of water. Bring to the boiling point. Pour over the meat and cook very slowly for one and three-quarters hours. Season, add a pinch of caraway seecj! and serve with boiled noodles. FRIED PIES Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of flour Two teaspoons of baking One teaspoon of salt powder Sift and then rub in five tablespoons of flour and work to a smooth dough with one-half cup of ice-cold water. Roll out one-quarter inch thick and spread with the mix- ture prepared for the pork pie. Brush the edges with water and press them firmly together. Let stand for fifteen minutes and then fry like crullers in hot fat. YE OLDE-TYME PORK PIE The English housewife usually uses individual pans or custard cups for this pie. Line either custard cups or individual pie plates with pastry made as follows: Place in a mixing bowl Two cups of sifted flour One level tablespoon of One-half teaspoon of salt baking powder Sift to mix and then rub into the flour three-quarters cup of finely chopped suet and mix to a dough with one- half cup of milk or water. Roll one-quarter inch thick on floured pastry board and then line the dishes and fill them with the following mixture. Place in a bowl One pound of sausage Four tablespoons of finely meat minced parsley Two cups of bread crumbs Eight tablespoons of One-half cup of grated cream sauce or thick onion brown gravy Mix thoroughly and then divide into five individual pies. Cover with the top crust and cut gashes in the top crust. Brush with milk or water and bake in a slow oven for one hour. MODERN COOKING 373 MUSTARD SAUCE Otie tablespoon of evap- One-half teaspoon of sugar orated milk One teaspoon of mustard One-half teaspoon of white Two tablespoons of salad pepper oil One-half teaspoon of salt Blend well and then add Two tablespoons of grated Two tablespoons of finely onion minced parsley and serve. BRAISED ONIONS Peel medium-sized onions and then parboil and drain. Now place one tablespoon of shortening in a saucepan and roll the onions in flour and brown lightly in fat. Cover closely and let cook very slowly for twenty minutes, shaking the saucepan occasionally and add four tablespoons of water. ENGLISH PEPPERPOT Wash and cleanse thoroughly two well-cracked calves' feet. Place in a soup kettle and add a good-sized veal bone and One bunch of potherbs One small carrot, cut in Two large onions, cut fine dice One small turnip, diced Add sufficient water to cover, usually about four quarts. Cook slowly for four hours and then strain off the stock and chop the meat fine from the feet, and also the meat which has been picked from the bones. Add to the stock together with One teaspoon of sweet pepper marjoram One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of salt thyme One-half teaspoon of 374 MODERN COOKING Add the dumplings made as follows : Place in a bowl One and one-half cups of baking powder flour Two tablespoons of grated One teaspoon of salt onion One teaspoon of pepper One-half teaspoon of pow- One level tablespoon of dered thyme Mix thoroughly and then rub in two tablespoons of shortening and mix to a dough with six tablespoons of milk. Form into balls and drop in boiling stock. Cook for twenty minutes, then thicken slightly with flour and serve. CHILI CON CARNE Cut one pound stewing meat into inch pieces and place in a saucepan two cups water. Cook slowly until tender, then add One cup of baked beans One teaspoon of chili Two onions, minced fine powder One cup of tomato Bring to a boil and cook slowly for twenty minutes and then place in a bowl Four tablespoons of flour paprika One teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of vinegar One-half teaspoon of Five tablespoons of water Beat to dissolve and add to the chili con came. Cook for five minutes and then serve. FRIED FISH, ENGLISH STYLE Qeanse the fish thoroughly, then wash well and drain. Roll in flour, then season and fry in hot fat until golden brown. Serve with mustard sauce. CHOW-CHOW Wash and cut into large pieces sufficient tomatoes to MODERN COOKING 376 measure three pints. Place in a china bowl and add One pint of small onions and cover with One cup of salt Let stand one-half day. Then drain and place in a preserving kettle and add One pint of cauliflower. One quart of stringbeans, parboiled cut in inch pieces One dozen green peppers, and parboiled cut into pieces One quart of strong cider One-half dozen red pep- vinegar pers, cut into pieces Three cups of water Bring to a boil and cook one-half hour. Now place in a bowl One-half cup of flour One ounce of mustard seed One-quarter cup of One tablespoon of celery mustard seed One tablespoon of paprika One cup of vinegar One teaspoon of turmeric Mix thoroughly before adding to the chow and then stir to blend thoroughly and cook for fifteen minutes. Fill into all-glass jars and seal while hot. QUINCES The quince is the fruit of a tree of the apple and pear family, and a true native of southern Europe and Asia. It is cultivated in all temperate climates. The ancient Greeks and Romans accredited the quince with many healing powers. There is a legend of a beau- tiful Grecian maid who discovered the true secret of making marmalade, and this was afterward served by maids of Athens to their sweethearts after the conquests. The name marmalade is from the Portuguese, which is marmelo. 376 MODERN COOKING The quince is a fruit that cannot be eaten in its raw state, but is most delicious in jam, jelly marmalade and quince butter, and vies with apple and guava as the best fruit for jelly making. The large, smooth fruit is the first choice, and it must be carefully handled as it bruises quickly; parts which are bruised very rapidly discolor to a dark brown. To keep the quinces any length of time, wipe them frequently with a dry cloth, and set on a wire tray so that there may be a free circulation of air around the place, and place in a cool, dry and well-ventilated room. The seeds of the quince are rich in a mucilage-like matter, and they form a jelly-like paste when soaked in water. FANCY QUINCE MARMALADE Prepare the quinces as for Roman quince marmalade and measure the fruit. To four quarts of cooked quinces and juice add One package of seedless Two cups of finely chopped raisins almonds or other nuts One medium-sized bottle Two and one-half quarts of maraschino cherries, of granulated sugar cut into tiny bits Place in the preserving kettle and bring to a boil. Cook slowly until a thick marmalade and then fill into sterilized jars. Adjust the rubber and lid and seal. Process in a hot water bath for fifteen minutes and then store in a cool, dry place. QUINCE JELLY Wash the quinces and then cut in half, and remove the seeds and cores and pare. Cut the pared quince in thin slices and then place in a bowl and cover with cold water. Place the parings and seeds of the quinces in a preserv- MODERN COOKING 377 ing kettle, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook until the parings are very soft. Mash fre- quently and turn into a jelly bag, and let drip. Measure the quince juice or liquid and return it to the preserving kettle. Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Then add three-quarters cup of sugar for each cup of juice. Stir to thoroughly dissolve the sugar and then bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Pour into sterilized glasses. Cool and cover with melted paraffin and store in the usual manner for jellies. Now place the quinces which were cut into thin slices and cover with cold water in the preserving kettle, cover- ing the sliced quinces with water two inches above the fruit in the kettle. Bring to a boil and then cook slowly until the sliced quinces are soft. Drain off the juice and then measure the cooked fruit. Return to the kettle and add One quart of sugar One cup of water to every three quarts of cooked sliced quinces. Place on stove and cook slowly until a very thick jam. Fill in sterilized jars and adjust the rubber and lid and seal. Process in hot water bath for fifteen minutes and then cool and store. Use the liquid strained from the cooked quinces for jelly, following the rule for quince jelly. ROMAN QUINCE MARMALADE Wash the quinces, and then pare and cut into thin slices. Place in a preserving kettle and cover with cold water. Place on the stove and cook until tender. Now place the parings, cores and seeds in a separate kettle and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly until the pulp is very soft. Strain and add this liquid to the quinces which are cooking. Cook the quinces until very soft. Then mash through a fine sieve. 378 MODERN COOKING Now measure this crushed pulp and juice and return to the preserving kettle. Bring to a boil and cook for fifteen minutes, and add two-thirds quart of sugar for every quart of the prepared quince pulp. Stir the sugar tmtil it dissolves and then bring to a boil, and cook slowly until the mixture is a thick jam. Pour into sterilized glasses or bowls and cool. Cover with melted paraffin. This Roman quince marmalade was accredited with the power to heal coughs and colds. BEEF CROQUETTES One and one-half cups of One teaspoon of Worces- finely cooked beef tershire sauce One cup of very thick One-quarter teaspoon of cream sauce mustard One teaspoon of salt Two tablespoons of grated One teaspoon of paprika onion Mix thoroughly and then form into croquettes and roll lightly in flour. Dip in beaten egg and then in fine crumbs, and fry until golden brown in hot fat SPANISH STEAK Have the butcher cut two pounds from either the round or the chuck steak and then wipe with a damp cloth. Now pat well with flour and lay on a baking dish. Place in a hot oven and baste every ten minutes, using about one cup of boiling water. Cook for twenty minutes and then add One cup of sliced onions One cup of well-drained tomatoes Return to the oven and bake for fifteen minutes and then remove and season with salt and paprika and four tablespoons of grated cheese. Return to the oven for five minutes. MODERN COOKING 379 JUST A PIG'S HEAD AND SET OF FEET Have the butcher split the head and then cleanse, re- moving the brain and tongue. Discard the eyes. Then wash in plenty of cold water and cleanse thoroughly. Place the head, feet and tongue in a large preserving kettle and cover with cold water and add One and one-half cups of One-half ounce of mustard sliced onions seed Two carrots, cut in dice One tablespoon of thyme One and one-half cups of One tablespoon of sage dried celery leaves One tablespoon of sweet One-half ounce of celery marjoram seed One dozen whole allspice One bunch of potherbs Bring to a boil and skim frequently and cook until the meat on the head and feet is tender. Remove the head, feet and tongue and boil the liquid for ten minutes to reduce. Strain and then measure. To two and one-half quarts of this stock add One tablespoon of black Three cups of cornmeal pepper One cup of whole-wheat Three tablespoons of salt flour Two cups of oatmeal and then meat, chopped fine from the set of pig's feet. Cook slowly, stirring frequently. Cook until very thick, like mush, on the back part of the range, and then rinse a square loaf-shaped pan with cold water. Pour in the scrapple and then place the balance of the stock, three pints, in a preserving kettle and add one cup of vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook for fifteen minutes to reduce. Add the meat, removed from the head and cut into neat pieces. Rinse a loaf-shaped pan with cold water, and then pour in the mince. Set in a cool place to mould. The scrapple may be formed into croquettes and dipped in flour and fried until golden brown, or it may be cut 380 MODERN COOKING into thin slices and fried in the usual manner. Cut the head cheese in slices and serve with mustard sauce. Cook the brains for breakfast or luncheon. CANDY TO MELT CHOCOLATE FOR DIPPING Either the plain or sweet chocolate may be used for dipping. To prevent streaking or turning gray, the chocolate must be melted at a low temperature, so fill the lower part of double boiler with boiling water. Place the top compartment in position, then add the chocolate which has been cut fine. Add one tablespoon of salad oil to each half-pound. Stir frequently luitil the chocolate melts and then dip in the fondant centres, nuts or pieces of candied fruit. Place to dry on a board which has been covered with oil cloth. GINGER CRYSTALS Soak three level tablespoons of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water for one hour. Then place in a sauce- pan that is free from grease Two cups of sugar One cup of water Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes, then add the prepared gelatine. Stir to dissolve thoroughly, then bring to a boil again and cook for twelve minutes. Remove from the fire and add One tablespoon of lemon juice Two-thirds cup of crystallized ginger, cut in tiny hits Rinse an oblong pan with cold water and drain well. Turn in the cooked mixture and set in a cool place for twelve hours to become firm. Then loosen from the pan and remove. Turn on the table and cut into blocks. Roll in granulated sugar and let stand to crystallize. BON-BONS The first thing to do is to prepare the fondant, which is easily done if you own a candy thermometer. Just place in a saucepan that is absolutely free from grease MODERN COOKING 381 Two cups of granulated One-half cup of boiling ' sugar water One-fourth cup of white One-half teaspoon of cream com syrup of tartar Adjust candy thennometer to side of saucepan. Set in a warm place for a few minutes to melt the sugar and then stir well. Wipe the sides of the sauce- pan with a damp cloth to remove the sugar crystals. Place the saucepan on the stove and bring to a boil. Cook until it reaches 240 degrees on the candy ther- mometer. Remove from the stove. Pour on well oiled meat platter and let cool. When cool, work to a creamy mass and then knead like bread dough. Place in a bowl and let stand for one day to ripen in a cool place. Cover bowl with a cloth that has been wrung very dry from hot water. This fondant may be used between halves of English walnuts, as centres for chocolates or to cover almonds or pieces of fruit. It can also be used for dipping and making bon-bons. SUGARLESS CANDY This fruit paste is the invention of an old Italian fruit merchant who specialized years ago in crystallized fruits. Put through the food chopper One-quarter pound of One-half found dates, figs cocoanut One pound shelled nuts, add One-half pound of seedless two tablespoons syrup, raisins form in halls and oblongs TO USE FONDANT FOR DIPPING Place one-half of the fondant in the top part of a double boiler and fill the lower part with boiling water. Add about one tablespoon of boiling water to the fondant and stir continually to reduce to a thick cream. Dip in the pieces of nut, candied fruit or balls of plain-flavored fondant. Let dry on waxed paper or oil cloth covered board. 382 MODERN COOKING When the fondant becomes too dry for further dipping, scrape from the pan, using a wooden spoon and form into balls. Dip them in melted chocolate. One-half pound of shelled One-half pound of apricots peanuts One-half pound of citron One-half pound of prunes Mix and form into balls or cylinders. Roll in finely chopped cocoanut or finely chopped nuts; or Hne a tin box, such as the sugar wafers come in, with wax paper, and then fill with the fruit mixture. Press hard to make it firm and let stand for four hours. Remove from the box and cut in half-inch slices. A box packed with an assortment of these delicious home-made candies will make a very desirable present. CHRISTMAS DINNER A SELECTION OF MENUS FOR FAMILY OF TEN PERSONS No. I Celery Radishes Oyster Cocktail Fillets of Codfish Tartare Sauce Potato Balls Parsley Butter Pickled Cucumbers Chow-chow Roast Turkey, New England Filling Brown Gravy Cranberry Jelly Lettuce Canadian Dressing Plum Pudding Vanilla Sauce Coffee Nuts Raisins MODERN COOKING 383 No. 2 FOR FAMILY OF SIX Home-made Piccalilli Water-cress Clear Tomato Soup Grilled Oysters Pan Broiled Chicken Bacon Garnish Brown Gravy Currant Jelly Sweet Potato Pone String Beans Lettuce Russian Dressing Mince Pie Nuts Raisins Coffee No. 3 FOR FAMILY OF FOUR Grape-fruit Cocktail Celery Fried Smelts Tartare Sauce Cole Slaw Baked Guinea Hen Brown Gravy Spiced Preserve Baked White Potatoes Creamed Onions Lettuce Sour Cream Dressing Pumpkin Pie Coffee Nuts Raisins No, 4 FOR JUST US TWO Grape-fruit Maraschino Panned Oysters Fillet of Halibut Creole Sauce Broiled Squab Currant Jelly Bacon Garnish Browned Sweet Potatoes Mashed Turnips Lettuce Mayonnaise Dressing Individual Mince Tarts Nuts Raisins Coffee 384 MODERN COOKING The marketing list will be as follows for Menu No. i : One bunch of celery con- Fifteen pound turkey taining six talks (It One bunch of parsley will be real economy to One pound of cranberries purchase the well- One-half peck of sweet bleached celery, as this potatoes has less waste.) Two large cauliflowers Two bunches o/ radishes One large head of lettuce Fifty small oysters for the Home-made pickled cu- cocktails cumber and chowchow One and one-half pounds Home-made plum pudding of sliced cod One-half pound of al- One-quarter peck of white monds potatoes One and one-half pounds One-quarter peck of onions of layer raisins FILLET OF CODFISH, TARTARS SAUCE Divide slices into neat fillets and season and roll in flour. Dip in beaten tgg and then roll in fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. TARTARE SAUCE Use eggless mayonnaise as a base for this sauce. Place in a soup plate Three tablespoons of One teaspoon of paprika evaporated milk One-quarter teaspoon of One teaspoon of mustard white pepper Mix and then beat one cup of salad oil and then add One-half cup of finely chopped fine chopped parsley One tablespoon of vinegar Three onions, grated One teaspoon of salt One large sour pickle. Mix well and then serve cold. In preparing the potato balls, use the left-over portion after making the balls into mashed potatoes. Cook the balls in boiling water, usually about ten minutes. Drain MODERN COOKING 385 and then cover with a cloth to make mealy. Then roll in melted butter and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. CANDIED SWEET POTATOES Cook the potatoes in their skins and then cool and re- move the skins. Now place in hea-vy iron frying pan One and one-half cups of namon syrup One-half teaspoon of nut- One-half teaspoon of cin- meg Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add the sweet potatoes and baste continually with the syrup, allow- ing them to simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Do not cut or slice the potatoes. PREPARING THE TURKEY Select a full pltmip bird rather than a large lean one. Remove all pin-feathers and then singe and draw. Re- move the neck and wash well in plenty of warm water. Prepare the following filling: NEW ENGLAND FILLING Put the coarse outside branches of the celery through the food chopper and add One quart of onions One and one-quarter One-half hunch of parsley pounds of stale bread Turn into a bowl and add One level tablespoon of salt One and one-half teaspoons One level teaspoon of of poultry seasoning pepper One-half cup of melted shortening Mix thoroughly and then fill into the bird. Sew the opening with a darning needle and a stout string. Place part of the filling in the front of the breast bone, then draw the flap of skin over to the back and fasten. Now 386 MODERN COOKING rub the bird well with shortening and pat one cup of flour over the breast, wings, thighs and legs. Place in large roasting pan and place in a hot oven. Let the turkey brown slightly, then turn the breast down, reduc- ing the heat to moderate and commence to baste with pre- pared mixture. Baste every ten minutes, allowing the turkey one-half hour to heat and twenty minutes to the pound or about three and one-half hours. LUM GUM GUE Spread saltine crackers thickly with marshmallow whip. Now spread with jelly and top off with more marshmallow. Cover with finely chopped nuts. Place in hot oven to brown slightly. CENTURY CHEESE SANDWICHES One-half cup of cottage One-half cup of finely cheese chopped parsley Two pimentos, chopped Four tablespoons of mayr fine onnaise dressing One onion, grated One teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of paprika Mix and spread on thin slices of buttered bread. Place a crisp leaf of lettuce between bread crumbs. Cut diag- onally across the sandwich, forming into triangles. Place a slice of pickle on top and serve. FRUIT SANDWICHES Chop fine One-half cup of seeded One tablespoon of syrup raisins One tablespoon of lemon One-half cup of figs, juice stoned prunes or apricots Mix to blend thoroughly, then spread upon the butter- thin crackers. Cover with a second cradcer and serve. MODERN COOKING 387 Three-quarters cup of flour One level tablespoon of baking powder One teaspoon of vanilla LACE COOKIES Place in a mixing bowl One cup of syrup Four tablespoons of shortening One egg Three and one-half cups of oatmeal Beat just enough to mix, then form into round balls and set three inches apart on well-greased baking sheet. Bake for fifteen minutes in moderate oven. Place one- half teaspoon of marshmallow on each cookie. GRANDMOTHER'S FRUIT CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One cup of sugar shortening One cup of syrup Two eggs Three-quarters cup of Cream until light and then add Three tablespoons of Three tablespoons of cocoa baking powder One tablespoon of cin- Two ckps of seeded raisins namon One teaspoon of nutmeg One teaspoon of allspice One-half teaspoon of cloves Three-quarters cup of black coffee Four cups of sifted flour One cup of finely chopped nuts Oiie-half cup of finely chopped citron One-half cup of finely dried apricots One-half cup of finely chopped stoned prunes Mix thoroughly, then grease the pan and line with three thicknesses of paper. Grease and flour the paper. Pour in the cake mixture and make smooth on top. Bake one and one-quarter hours in a slow oven. Set the baking pan in another one and add one cup of boiling water to the pan in which the cake pan is set. 388 MODERN COOKING This amount will make four and one-half pounds of cake, and it may be divided into two pans if so desired. When the cake is cool, remove from the paper and spread with a good jam or preserve. Set in an air-tight can to blend. When ready to use, wipe the cake with a damp cloth and spread with chocolate or white icing. MORAVIAN FRUIT CAKE Place in a mixing bowl Three-quarters cup of syrup One-half cup of sugar One-half cup of shortening Two tablespoons of cocoa Two teaspoons of cinnamon One teaspoon of nutmeg One-half teaspoon of allspice Beat to mix and then add One and one-half cups of seeded raisins One cup of dried apples, chopped fine One-half teaspoon of ginger One-half teaspoon of cloves Three cups of flour Two level tablespoons of baking powder Three-quarters cup of milk One egg One cup of finely chopped nuts One-half cup of finely chopped citron Mix in the fruit thoroughly, then grease the pan and line with paper. Grease and flour the paper. Turn in the cake mixture and bake in a slow oven for one hour. A SMALL FRUIT CAKE Place in a mixing bowl One-half cup of seeded raisins One-half cup of finely chopped nuts One-half cup of finely chopped citron One-half cup of finely chopped apricots One cup of syrup One-half cup of brown sugar One-half cup of shor,tening One-half cup of cold coffee One egg Two and one-half cups of flour Two tablespoons of baking powder MODERN COOKING 389 Mix thoroughly and bake like a Moravian fruit cake, A WAR CAKE OF 1865 Place in a mixing bowl One and one-half aips of molasses One Clip of shortening One cup of quince or peach preserves One cup of finely chopped nuts Three-quarters cup of finely chopped candied orange peel One-half cup of finely chopped candied lemon peel raisins One tablespoon of cin- namon One teaspoon of nutmeg One-half teaspoon of all- spice One-half teaspoon of cloves Five cups of sifted flour Three level tablespoons of baking powder One egg One and one-half cups of thin apple sauce Three cups of seeded Mix thoroughly and then grease the pan and line with paper. Grease and flour the paper, turn in the mixture and bake one and one-half hours in a slow oven. TOM-TIDDLE GINGERBREAD Place in a mixing bowl One cup of molasses One-half cup of brown sugar One-half cup of shortening Mix and then add One cup of cold coffee Four cups of sifted flour One tablespoon of cin- namon One teaspoon of ginger One teaspoon of allspice Three level tablespoons of baking powder Beat to mix. Pour into greased and floured baking pan, cover with prepared crumbs and bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. 390 MODERN COOKING TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES Cut bread into strips the width of a finger. Toast them, place a thin slice of cheese on the toast and toast again. Dust with paprika. DELMONTE DRESSING Place in a mixing bowl Four finely chopped pi- Three tablespoons of vin- mentos egar or lemon juice One grated onion One teaspoon of sugar Four tablespoons of finely One teaspoon of salt chopped parsley One teaspoon of paprika Seven tablespoons of salad Three tablespoons of catsup oil Mix and then serve. Leisurely preparation of the Qiristmas dinner makes for its success. Each family is an authority in itself as to the choice of the piece de resistance. Turkey, duck, goose, chicken, guinea hen, suckling pig, shoulder of fresh pork and the baked ham afford a splendid variety. SUGGESTIVE MENUS No. 1 Clear Tomato Soup Roast Turkey Celery ' Filling Brown Gravy Cranberry Jelly Mashed White Potatoes Creamed Onions Coleslaw Mince Pie Coffee No. 2 Celery Soup Home-made Pickles Radishes Roast Goose Potato Filling Roast Apples Currant Jelly Sweet Potato Pone Cauliflower Celery and Cabbage Salad MODERN COOKING 391 Cranberry Pie Coffee No. 3 Celery Olives Pea Soup Baked Fresh Country Shoulder of Pork Brown Gravy Apple Sauce Candied Sweet Potatoes Spinach Lettuce French Dressing Pumpkin Pie Coffee No. 4 Celery Chow-chow Water-cress Oysters on Half Shell Champagne Style Sauce Baked Ham Currant Jelly Browned Sweet and White Potatoes Spiced Cucumber Rings Corn Peas Lettuce Cranberry Roll Coffee ROAST GOOSE Select a plump bird and remove the pin- feathers. Singe and draw, then wash well in warm water, using a vege- table brush to scrub the skin. Plunge into cold water. Now place the goose in a preserving kettle and add One fagot of soup herbs Two onions Sufficient boiling water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook for three-quarters of an hour. Remove and let cool. Place one-half cup of shortening in a large frying pan and add One and one-half cups of finely chopped onions Cook until soft and add Two cups of mashed chopped parsley potatoes One-half cup of finely One cup of fine bread chopped celery leaves crumbs One-half cup of finely One-half cup of finely chopped pimentos 392 MODERN COOKING The meat picked from the neck and giblets, chopped fine, also One teaspoon of thyme sage Three-quarters teaspoon of One-half teaspoon of poul- sweet marjoram try seasoning One quarter teaspoon of Cook slowly, turning frequently for one-half hour. Cool and then fill the goose. Sew the opening with darn- ing needle and stout string. Fasten the flap and neck, then rub the bird well with plenty of shortening. Dust thickly with flour. Place in a roasting pan in hot oven for twenty minutes, then commence to baste, using boiling water. Reduce the heat to moderate, turn the goose breast down and cook for two and one-half hours. About one- half hour before removing from the oven, turn the bird on its back and let the breast brown nicely. Lift to a warm plate and garnish with roast or baked apples. To make the gravy, drain nearly all the fat from the pan, add sufficient boiling water and cook for a few minutes. PEA SOUP Soak one cup of dried peas in one quart of warm water overnight. In the morning, wash and drain, then mince four ounces of salt pork fine. Place in a saucepan and add One and one-half cups of sliced onions Cook slowly until soft, but not brown, then add the peas and Five pints of cold water One-half teaspoon of poul- One bunch of soup herbs try seasoning Add well-cracked bones from the shoulder. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for three and one-half hours. Cool, then put through a coarse sieve into a bowl and set aside until needed. To serve : Reheat and add two tablespoons MODERN COOKING 393 of finely chopped parsley. If too thick, reduce with a little boiling water. FRESH COUNTRY SHOULDER OF PORK Select a plump shoulder of pork, weighing about seven and one-half pounds. Have the butcher bone and roll the shoulder. Now put the coarse branches and sufficient green tops of celery through the food chopper to measure one cup. Place in a bowl and add One cup of finely chopped seasoning onion One teaspoon of salt One-half teaspoon of sage One-half teaspoon of One teaspoon of poultry pepper Mix well and then pack into the shoulder. Wipe shoul- der, rub well with shortening, and pat in one cup of flour. Place in a roasting pan and place in a hot oven. Let brown for thirty minutes. Reduce the even heat to mod- erate and commence to baste, using boiling water, and baste every fifteen minutes. Cook for three and one- quarter hours. Turn frequently and when ready to serve, lift to a warm platter and garnish with parsley. Drain the excess fat from the pan and add the required amount of boiling water to make the gravy. HUNGARIAN GOULASH Cut one pound of lean stewing beef in pieces and place in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Cook slowly until tender and then add One-half cup of onions One fagot of soup herbs One carrot, diced When the meat is tender, season with One teaspoon of salt of paprika One and one-half teaspoons Thicken the gravy with browned flour and then add one-half cup of sour cream. Garnish with finely chopped parsley. 394 MODERN COOKING Parsley Butter Hot Rolls MENUS FOR SIX PERSONS FOR CHRISTMAS DAY BREAKFAST 9 A.M. Grape-fruit Cereal and Cream Broiled Mackerel Lyonnaise potatoes Coffee CHRISTMAS DINNER 4 P.M. Clear Tomato Soup Cole Slaw Tuna Fish a la Newburg Sliced Cucumbers Roast Turkey Brown Gravy Cranberry Sauce Candied Sweet Potatoes Corn Lettuce Russian Dressing Individual Plum Puddings Coffee OR BREAKFAST 9 A.M. Cereal and Cream Parsley Butter Poached Eggs Corn Muffins Coffee DINNER 4 P.M. Celery Pickles Olives Celery Potato balls Game Filling Spinach Sliced Oranges Broiled Ham Grilled Potatoes Sardine Canape Bouillon MODERN COOKING 395 Miniature Codfish Balls Tomato Sauce Parsley Potato Balls Cucumbers Baked Sugar-Cured Ham Currant Jelly Champagne Style Sauce Paprika Potatoes Peas Asparagus Salad Delmonte Dressing Individual Hot Mince Tarts Coffee Almost any choice of meat may replace the turkey or ham. Chicken, guinea hen, duck, geese, squabs or baby pig and any one of these will blend very nicely and balance the meal. Fqr six persons prepare the grapefruit early the eve- ning before and then set in the ice box until needed. Use a prepared breakfast cereal, such as corn flakes, etc. This eliminates cooking the cereal. BROILED MACKEREL Select two medium-sized or three small mackerel and place in a large pan to soak early the day before Christ- mas. Place the skin side up and cover with warm water. Just after the evening meal, drain the mackerel, cover again with warm water and let stand overnight. This will remove the excess salt. In the morning, place in a large baking pan, set in the broiler or hot oven and baste every four minutes with boihng water. Cook for fifteen minutes for a large mackerel and about ten minutes for small fish. Lift to a hot platter and cover with PARSLEY BUTTER Two ounces of butter onion One-half cup of finely One tablespoon of Worces- chopped parsley tershire sauce One tablespoon of grated Work to a smooth mass, then spread on the fish and serve with a lemon cut in wedge-shaped pieces. 396 MODERN COOKING TUNA FISH A LA KING Open a can of tuna fish and turn into a china dish. Now place in a saucepan One and one-half cups of Four tablespoons of flour milk Stir to blend, then bring to a boil and cook five minutes. Add Three tablespoons of finely One well-beaten egg minced parsley One teaspoon of salt One tablespoon of grated One teaspoon of paprika onion Add the tuna fish, which has been broken into large flakes. Heat. When smoking hot, serve in ramekins. Set the ramekin on a tea plate and then place in a small pile four potato balls, which have been rolled in melted butter covered with finely minced parsley, then sliced and well-seasoned cucumbers. CLEAR TOMATO SOUP Use One can of tomato soup onion One quart of water Two tablespoons of finely One teaspoon of salt minced parsley Two tablespoons of grated Two beef cubes Heat slowly, then serve with tiny squares of toast. LYONNAISE POTATOES One-half cup of finely One quart of thinly sliced chopped onions cold-boiled potatoes Mix and then place one-half cup of shortening in a frying pan and when hot, add the potatoes. Cook slowly until well browned. TO PREPARE INDIVIDUAL PLUM PUDDINGS Take large pudding and mould it into small ones. Set in a double boiler and heat. MODERN COOKING 397 FOR MENU NO. 2 Broil or bake the ham To grill potatoes : Cut them into thin slices and place on a baking pan. Brush with shortening and broil in the gas oven for ten minutes. PAPRIKA POTATOES Select medium-sized potatoes and bake. When ready to serve, split open. Place a piece of butter in each potato and dust with paprika. Use canned asparagus for the salad. SARDINES CANAPE Open a large can of sardines and turn on a plate ; let drain. Then cut and toast for each person an oblong piece of bread. Spread with butter. Then lay on the toast two sardines. Sprinkle them with One tablespoon of finely minced onion minced pimentos One teaspoon of finely One teaspoon of finely minced parsley Serve with wedge-shaped section of sliced ham. Use the bouillon cubes for making the bouillon. MINIATURE CODFISH BALLS One and one-half cups of One onion, grated mashed potatoes One-half cup of finely Three-quarters cup of pre- minced parsley pared codfish Mix, and then form into tiny balls. Roll in flour and then dip in beaten egg and roll in fine crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat. Roll cooked potato balls in melted butter and parsley. 398 MODERN COOKING BAKED SUGAR-CURED HAM Boil the ham and then remove the skin and trim. Now place in a bowl One cup of brown sugar One teaspoon of nutmeg or molasses One teaspoon of allspice One tablespoon of cinnor- One-half teaspoon of mon thyme Mix, spread over the ham and bake in a hot oven for one and one-quarter hours. Baste every ten minutes with boiling water. NEW YEAR'S MENU BREAKFAST Sliced Bananas Cereal and Cream Codfish Cakes Tomato Sauce Toast Coflfee DINNER Barley Broth with Vegetables Lamb Cutlets, Mentone Mashed Potatoes Mashed Turnips Raisin Pie Celery Salad Coffee SUPPER Radishes Celery Salmon a la King Potato Cakes Coleslaw Chocolate Cake Tea SALMON A LA KING Place in a saucepan Two cups of milk Six tablespoons of flour Stir to dissolve, then bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Add one can salmon free from bones and skin. Tuice of one lemon pepper One teaspoon of salt Two well-beaten eggs One-half teaspoon of Heat to boiling point and serve on toast. MODERN COOKING 399 LAMB CUTLETS MENTONE Have the butcher cut the neck of lamb or mutton for cutlets. Wipe with a damp cloth and place in a sauce- pan with Two onions water One quart of boiling Cook slowly until tender, then remove the cutlets and flatten well. Roll in flour and then brown in hot fat. Now add one and one-half cups of sliced onions to the fat in the pan, left from browning the cutlets. Toss and brown very lightly. Now add one cup of water and cook until the onions are soft and the water evaporated. Dust three level tablespoons of flour over the onions and toss to blend thoroughly. Then add One-half can of tomato Three-quarters of a cup of soup water Bring to a boil ; add the cutlets and let simmer for ten minutes. Lift the onions to a hot platter, then place the cutlets on top and pour the gravy over the meat. Garnish with one tablespoon of finely chopped parsley. RAISIN PIE Place one package of seedless raisins in a saucepan and add One cup of syrup Six tablespoons of corn- Thre-quarters of a cup of starch water Dissolve the starch in the water before adding to the syrup and raisins, then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then cool and use for the pie. When ready to place in the pie add One tablespoon of lemon Grated rind of one-quarter juice lemon 400 MODERN COOKING TOMATO SAUCE Place one-half can of tomato soup in a saucepan and add One-half cup of water cornstarch Two level tablespoons of Stir to dissolve the starch and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. VIRGINIA STYLE BAKED HAM Purchase a boiled boneless ham and place in baking pan. Open one and one-half pound can of syrup and add Two tablespoons of One teaspoon of allspice cinnamon One teaspoon of cloves One tablespoon of nutmeg One teaspoon of ginger Mix well, then spread on the ham and dust lightly with the flour. Baste frequently with the syrup. Bake in a slow oven for one and one-fourth hours. MENUS FOR THE NEW YEAR'S PARTY Planning a real, old-fashioned watch party to see the old year out and the new one in will afford a real en- tertainment. Have the folks arrive about lo o'clock and then pass an hour and a half in dancing, singing and gen- erally having a real good old-fashioned time. Then about 11.45 serve the supper, so that just before midnight all are ready with a toast to the new year. Arrange so that each guest is in his place standing, with a wassail cup in hand, and then at three minutes of 12, darken the room. When 12 o'clock is struck, turn on the lights and drink a Happy New Year. New Year merrymaking is as old as the history of England. There the head of the house assembles the family around the wassail bowl to drink the healths of every one. The Saxon phrase "Wasshael" means "Your health" ; hence the wassail bowl. In many of the shires MODERN COOKING 401 and counties the lads and lassies secure a large bowl and ornament it with ribbons and artificial flowers, and, with this visit the gentry, all the while singing songs suitable to the occasion. AN ENGLISH WASSAIL Place two gallons of cider in a large punch bowl and add A large lump of ice small pieces One-half dozen bananas. One medium-sized bottle of cut in thin slices maraschino cherries One-half dozen oranges. Small baked apple cut in slices and then in Cut the cherries into tiny bits and use the juice also. Put in one baked apple for each guest. The apples are afterward eaten with a fork. Mix and serve. Here are some suggestions for supper : MENU NO. 1 Celery Home-made Pickles Olives Chicken a la King Potato Croquettes Cheese Crackers Cake Jelly Coffee MENU NO. 2 Radishes Home-made Relishes Celery Virginia Baked Ham Rolls Potato Salad Butter Coffee Cake COUNTRY SUPPER Radishes Home-made Relishes Celery Roast Suckling Pig Brown Gravy Apple Sauce Mashed White Potatoes Coleslaw Sauerkraut Cranberry Pie Bread and Butter Coffee An old custom of the new year has been revived — making calls. Folks now visit about on New Year's Day 402 MODERN COOKING very much in the same way as grandma entertained and kept open house on this day. To serve on New Year's visits : Celery Olives Pimento Sandwiches Baked Ham Sandwiches Celery arid Cheese Sandwiches Tea, Coffee or Cocoa Other folks will prefer to entertain with a New Year's dinner. Perhaps this will give a suggestion : Oysters on Half Shell Celery Ye Olde-Tjrme Vegetable Soup Boiled Fish Egg Sauce Baked Ham Champagne Style Sauce Browned Potatoes Coleslaw Peas Mince or Apple Pie Nuts Raisins Coffee COD BASSLANO The servi;ag of a fish entree with the Sunday diimer gives just tne right zest to the meal. Select two slices of cod or other sliced fish. Cut into small fillets and season and then roll in flour. Dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat and serve with tartare sauce. ROAST LOIN OF PORK Select a five- or six-pound cut and have the butcher re- move the entire chine bone. Wipe and place in a baking pan and pat in one cup of flour. Core one apple for each service and place meat in the hot oven. Let brown and then reduce the heat and allow one-half hour for the meat to the pound to cook in a moderate oven. Baste with boiling water. CRANBERRY DUMPLINGS Chop two cups of cranberries very fine and add One-half cup of seedless One cup of brown sugar raisins One and one-half cups of flour MODERN COOKING 403 Place in the mixing bowl One-half teaspoon of salt One teaspoon of baking powder Stiffen to mix and then rub in three tablespoons of shortening and work to a dough with one-half cup of cold water. Roll out one-quarter inch thick and spread with cranberry mixture. Roll like for jelly roll and then wrap in a pudding cloth. Plunge in a saucepan contain- ing boiling water; cook for forty minutes and then lift and drain. Serve, cut in inch-wide slices with sweetened cranberry sauce. Many persons like the old-fashioned idea of entertain- ing on New Year's Day with a real old-time dinner. An ideal number is either eight or twelve persons. Put the full quota of leaves in the dining-room table and ^ad it nicely. Cover with your best table cloth. A miniature tree or a bush of mistletoe or holly for a center-piece is both seasonable and appropriate. To serve this meal with one maid, it must be arranged so as to relieve her of the waitress tasks. Mould the but- ter into balls and arrange the service, allowing at least twenty-two inches between the guests. Place the celery and relish in glass dishes at intervals along the side of the table and serve the salad with the dinner. A SUGGESTIVE COLONIAL MENU Celery Oyster Soup Home-made Relishes Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding Brown Gravy Horseradish Sauce Mashed Potatoes Buttered Onions Spiced Cantaloupe and Watermelon Rind Beet and Cabbage Salad Plum Pudding Coffee Mince Pie RECIPES for twelve Persons Strain the juice of fifty stewing oysters, then look them over carefully and remove all bits of shell. Wash and 404 MODERN COOKING then place in a saucepan and add two tablespoons of butter. Now place in a large saucepan Four pints of milk One-half cup of flour One pint of oyster liquid Stir to dissolve the flour thoroughly and then bring quickly to a boil. Bring the oysters quickly to the scald- ing point ; add to the milk with Two tablespoons of finely One and one-half teaspoons minced parsley of salt One teaspoon of grated One-half teaspoon of white onion pepper Let simmer slowly for a few minutes. Serve with old- fashioned water crackers. ROAST BEEF YORKSHIRE PUDDING Select a fancy prime cut from a young steer and have the butcher cut off the chine and trim for roasting. Place in a baking pan without seasoning. Place in lowest part of the broiling oven. Cook, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound. Turn the meat every fifteen minutes and baste with its own fat. Cooking the meat before the flame gives it the flavor and appearance of the old-time open-fire roasting. About twenty minutes before serving the meal, place one-half cup of the drippings from the roasting pan in a baking pan and place in the oven to heat. While heat- ing, prepare the pudding. Place in a bowl Two and one-half cups of Two eggs milk Beat to mix thoroughly and then add One and one-half teaspoons onion of salt Two and one-half cups of One-half teaspoon of flour pepper Two level tablespoons of One teaspoon of grated baking powder MODERN COOKING 405 Beat to remove the lumps and then pour into hot, well-greased baking pan about three-quarters of an inch deep. Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes, basting three times with the drippings from the roast. Add the flour to the pan in which the meat was roasted. Brown well and add three cups of cold water, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the boiling point and cook for a few minutes, then serve. Some people like English horseradish sauce with the roast meat. And they serve the gravy over the pudding. Place in a saucepan. One-half cup of water Five tablespoons of corn- One-half cup of white starch vinegar Stir to dissolve the the starch and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add One-half cup of sour cream pepper One and one-half teaspoons One small glass of grated of salt horseradish One teaspoon of white Heat, stirring frequently, to the boiling point. BEET AND CABBAGE SALAD Shred fine one small head of cabbage. Place in salt water to crisp for one hour. Now drain. Turn on a cloth to dry. Place in a bowl and add One cup of finely shredded One cup of mayonnaise celery dressing Two onions, chopped fine Qne and one-half teaspoons Two green peppers, of salt chopped fine One teaspoon of paprika Toss to mix thoroughly and then serve on individual salad plates. Garnish with finely chopped pickled beets in the form of a border around each service. A market list for twelve persons : 406 MODERN COOKING Nine pounds of standing rib-loin cut Fifty oysters Four branches of celery Five pints of milk One-half pint of cream for coffee One-quarter pound of coffee One-quarter peck of onions One bunch of beets CORN RELISH One small head of lettuce Two peppers Two dozen rolls One pound of butter Two eggs One-half pound of plum pudding One extra large pie, mak- ing twelve small cuts One-quarter pound of sugar Place in a preserving kettle One can of shoepeg corn One quart of cooked string beans One quart of cooked lima beans Eight green peppers, cut in small pieces One small head of cabbage, shredded fine One ounce of mustard seed Equal parts of vinegar and water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook for thirty-five minutes. Now place in a bowl One-half cup of sugar One ounce of paprika Two cups of vinegar One cup of flour One-half cup of yellow mustard One-half cup of salt Stir to dissolve and then add to the boiling mixture. Cook for fifteen minutes and then fill into all-glass jars and seal. Store in a cool dry place. FOR EIGHT COUPLES In English communities it is the custom to sit up and watch the departing year out and to welcome in the new. The farmers in the north country visit the orchards, while the folk in the highlands visit and return calls. MODERN COOKING 407 The custom of New Year's calling is very old indeed, and in the years of long ago the Beau Brummels and dandies of the times enjoyed the New Year's calling as a very rare sport. The mummers who are abroad this day follow the ancient custom of dear old Scotland, where these rites have prevailed for many centuries. Toast the old year out and new one in with a loving cup: Ring out the old with all its hate. Ring in the new with love and cheer, Ring on, oh bells of time; Ring with joy, ere ye he too late. NEW YEAR'S PUNCH To prepare a loving cup for welcoming the new year for fifteen persons : One and one-half gallons of cider One-half dozen bananas, sliced thin. One small bottle of cherries, cut into bits. Place a large lump in the ice bowl and stir to blend. Serve in tall punch glasses. A MIDNIGHT REPAST Oysters a la Newburg Pimento Sandwiches Pickles Salted Nuts Celery New Year's Punch Coffee or Creamed Chicken Delmonte Celery Salad Home-made Pickles Olives Rolls Butter New Year's Punch Tea or Coffee A punch may be made with part grape juice and part lemonade and then the fruit added. 408 MODERN COOKING OYSTERS A LA NEWBURG For fifteen persons. Look over carefully and then wash one htindred stewing oysters. Drain. Now place in a saucepan One quart of oyster Three-quarters cup of liquid flour One quart of milk Stir to dissolve thoroughly; bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now pan the oysters in their own juice by placing in a saucepan and constantly stirring until they reach the boiling point. Add the prepared sauce with Two onions, minced fine One and one-half teaspoons One tall can of pimentos, of paprika chopped fine One-half teaspoon of white Two well-beaten eggs pepper One level tablespoon of One-half cup of finely salt chopped parsley Heat slowly until boiling point is reached and then serve on thick slices of toast. PIMENTO SANDWICHES Put One tall can of pimentos Eight stalks of parsley Two stalks of celery Two onions through the food chopper and then add One cup of cottage cheese One teaspoon of salt Half-cup of mayonnaise One teaspoon of paprika Mix well and then spread the rye bread with the fol- lowing : Four ounces of butter One teaspoon of paprika Two tablespoons of mayon- One-half teaspoon of naise dressing mustard Place in a mixing bowl and beat until a cream, then spread the mixture on the loaf and cut in thin slices. MODERN COOKING 409 Spread the pimento mixture and cover with a second slice of bread. Cut into triangles. CREAMED CHICKEN DELMONTE Select a large stewing chicken about six and one-half to seven pounds. Singe and draw, then wash. Place in a preserving kettle with Two onions in small pieces One clove One fagot of soup herbs One carrot, cut in dice Two and one-half quarts of Two branches of celery, cut boiling water Cover closely and bring to a boil. Simmer slowly until tender and then cool in the stock. Now remove the skin and cut meat in neat pieces, about one inch square. Place in a large saucepan One quart of chicken Three-quarters cup of stock flour Stir to blend thoroughly and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and add two onions, minced fine, and One tall can of pimentos. One tablespoon of salt minced fine One and one-half teaspoons One quart of celery, cut in of paprika inch blocks and parboiled The prepared chicken meat Three well-beaten eggs Juice of two small lemons Heat until very hot and then serve on toast. Lay three tips of canned asparagus that has been heated in its own juice and then sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. A TABLE FOB USE OF THE ECONOinCAL HOUSEWIFE Converting Dry Measure into Lbs. and Oz. Apples 3 lbs. Beans, Lima 3 " " String 1 " " Wax 1 '; Carrots 3 " Cranberries 2 Kale Onions 3 " • Parsnips 3 Peas, dried 3 " " green, unshelled 3 " Potatoes, Irish 3 " Sweet 3 " Tomatoes 3 " Turnips Cherries 3 " Peanuts 1 " The law provides that apples, cucumbers, numerical count. BonjNa MEATS Time Mutton per pound, 20 minutes pk. Iqt. 1 pk 1 bu. lib. 8oz. nH lbs. 4Slbs 8 oz. 1 " 12 " 14 11 56 " 8 " 12 " 6 it 24" 8 " 12 " 6 it 24 " 2 " 1 « g " 12'^ tt SO " 1 It -i It 10 (( 40 " 12 " 6" 3 tt 12 " 9 " 1 « 12 .. i2y^ ti SO " 2 " 1 *« g « i2y2 tt SO " 12 " 1 " 14 " n% tt 45 " 8 " 1 " 12 " 14 it 56" 12 " 1 " 14 " IS tt 60 " 4 " 1 " 10 " 13j^ " 54 " 12 " 1 " 14 " 15 It 60" 8 " 1 " 12 " 14 t( 56" 6 •• 10 " SJ4 tt 22 " cabbage, pears, peaches nay be sold by Corned Beef Ham . . . Turkey Chicken Fowl . . Tripe . . 30 20 25 20 20 40 FISH Time Codfish per pound, 15 to 18 min. Halibut " Bluefish ' " Lobster " " 30 to 40 min. VEQETABLES Time Potatoes 20 to 30 min. Asparagus 20 to 25 " Peas 15 to 20 " String Beans 20 to 30 " Lima " 30 to 40 " Spinach 15 to 20 " Turnips 30 minutes Beets Ihour Cabbage 20 minutes Cauliflower 20 Brussels Sprouts 25 Onions 30 Green Corn .20 Sice 20 BAKING MEATS Time Beef, ribs, rare per pound, IS min. " " well done . . . ■ " 20 Sound of Beef " 20 Mutton, leg, rare ' " 18 " well done . . " 20 " loin, rare ' " 15 ' " 20 Veal,' " " ' " 25 Pork, " " " 25 Chicken ' " 20 Goose " 25 MEATS Time Fillet, hot oven 45 minutes Braised Meats labours Turkey, 8 pounds 2 " Birds, small, hot oven IS to 20 min. Ducks, tame 1 hour " wild, very hot oven. . , 25 minutes FISH Time Large Fish 1 hour, about Small " 20 to 30 min. BBoiLma Time Steak, 1 inch thick 8 to 10 min. " IH " " 10 to 15 " Mutton Chops, French 8 minutes English 10 Spring Chicken 20 " Time Quail 8 to 10 min. Grouse 15 minutes Squabs 10 to 15 min. Shad, Bluefish, Trout 15 to 25 " Small Fish 5 to 10 "