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 Memoirs of Hans Hendrik, the Arctic trav 
 
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MEMOIRS 
 
 OF 
 
 HANS HENDRIK, 
 
 THE ARCTIC TRAVELLER, 
 
 SERVING UNDER 
 
 KANE, HAYES, . HALL AND NARES, 
 1853- 1876. 
 
 WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE ESKIMO LANGUAGE 
 
 By Dr. HENRY RINK, 
 
 Director of the Royal Greenland Board of Trade, Author of " Tales and Traditions of 
 the Eskimo," " Danish Greenland," &c. 
 
 Edited by Prof. Dr. GEORGE STEPHENS, F.S.A., 
 
 Lond., Edin., and Stockholm, &c> &c. 
 
 HonHon : 
 TRUBNER & CO., LUDGATE HILL. 
 
 1878. 
 
 All Rights Restrvtd. 
 
/\-)<d5'(pJ2- 
 
 PRINTED BY T. PETTITT AND CO., 
 
 22 AND 23, FRITH STREET, AND SO, OLD COMPTON STREET 
 
 SOHO, LONDON, W. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introduction . . . i 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Author's Home, his Voyage with Dr, 
 Kane, and settling down at Smith 
 Sound . . . . . .21 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Second Northern Journey under command 
 of Hayes . . . . .36 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Third Journey to the North with the 
 ' Polaris,' under the command of 
 Captain Hall . . . . .47 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Fourth Journey to the North under the 
 command of Captain Nares . . 82 
 
GREENLAND: ITS PEOPLE & ITS PRODUCTS. 
 
 By the Chevalier Dr. Henry Rink, President of the 
 Greenland Board of Trade. With sixteen Illustrations, 
 drawn by the Eskimo, and a Map. Edited by Dr. 
 Robert Brown. Crown 8vo. Price ios. 6d. 
 
 " Dr. Rink's exhaustive treatise will thoroughly repay perusal 
 
 There is much that is interesting in the Esquimaux habits and customs, and 
 it is curious to trace the influence that has been exerted on them by 
 Christianity, civilization, and civilized invention." — Saturday Review. 
 
 " Dr. Rink's book is an admirable specimen of a closely yet judiciously 
 condensed monograph on a most interesting region." — Academy. 
 
 C. KEGAN PAUL & Co.. I, Paternoster Square, London. 
 
 LATELY PUBLISHED. 
 
 TALES AND TRADITIONS OF THE ESKIMO, 
 
 With a Sketch of their Habits, Religion, Language, 
 and other Peculiarities. By Dr. Henry Rink, Director 
 of the Royal Greenland Board of Trade, and formerly 
 Royal Inspector of South Greenland. Translated from 
 the Danish by the Author. Edited by Dr. Robert 
 Brown, F.L.S., F.R.G.S. With numerous Illustrations, 
 drawn and engraved by Eskimo. Crown 8vo, ios. 6d. 
 
 " To all students of folk-lore as well as to every ethnologist, especially to 
 those who are peculiarly interested in Arctic regions, the results of Dr. 
 Rink's careful researches may be warmly commended. " — Atlienceum. 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, Edinburgh & London. 
 
MEMOIRS 
 
 OF 
 
 HANS HENDRIK, 
 
 THE ARCTIC TRAVELLER. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A couple of months ago I received from my friend, 
 Herr Krarup Smith, who resides in Disko Island, a 
 narrative written last winter in the Eskimo language 
 by a native who had shared in several Arctic expe- 
 ditions. Herr Smith, who is Inspector of the 
 Northern Danish Settlements in Greenland, supposed 
 that parts of the MS. might be fit for publication in 
 some journal. He therefore suggested that I should 
 make such extracts as might suit this purpose. But 
 I had hardly run over the pages before I had made 
 jip my mind to publish it. entire, just as it was. What 
 I have struck out is not worth mentioning. My 
 reason was, that I had never read any adventures in 
 the far North so curious relatively to their shortness. 
 On translating specimens to others I was corroborated 
 in my opinion, and especially we agreed that, besides 
 setting forth striking vicissitudes, every line helps to 
 describe the inhabitants of the Arctic regions, by 
 reflecting their ideas and their mental development in 
 the person of our author. 
 
 I was led to undertake the difficult task of trans- 
 lating the MS. into English, not only by the desire to 
 
2 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 render it accessible to the widest circle possible, but 
 also from a special regard to our author's fellow- 
 travellers in England and America. My doubt 
 whether I should be able to render the sketch 
 tolerably well in English was overcome by my friend, 
 Professor G. Stephens, offering to give it a final revise. 
 This peculiar record requires some explanation, 
 both as to the author himself, and as to the renowned 
 travellers whom he accompanied. 
 
 Birthplace and Nationality of the Author. 
 
 In Southern Greenland, on the border of Davis 
 Strait, is the small trading establishment, Fiskernaes. 
 Its latitude is not more northerly than middle Norway, 
 but its climate is more severe than the northernmost 
 coasts of Norway and Iceland. It has been proved 
 by experience that, nowadays, only the present natives 
 are able to live even in the most favourable tracts of 
 Greenland, without being supplied with their chief 
 necessaries from more genial countries. Our author 
 belongs to that remarkable Eskimo race which is 
 spread from Greenland to Behrings Straits, and is 
 able to procure a comfortable existence in countries 
 where men of our race only have been able to stay 
 for a couple of years by the help of the numerous 
 and expensive resources of modern civilisation. 
 
 It is well known that the capability of the Eskimo 
 to brave their climate depends on their ingenuity in 
 catching and making use of the seal. When they 
 find no better materials, they build a comfortable 
 house merely out of snow, both light and heat it with 
 their seal-oil lamps, manufacture excellent garments out 
 of sealskins, and have the most suitable food for a cold 
 climate in the flesh and blubber of the same animals. 
 
 Our author affords a striking example of the inde- 
 pendence of his nation, of the climate within their 
 vast territories, as well as of aid from foreign nations. 
 When a young man he was suddenly removed from 
 
. INTRODUCTION. 3 
 
 his home to a country about iooo miles nearer the 
 North Pole, and found himself so attracted by its 
 ■amenities, that he did not hesitate to settle down 
 there. Furthermore, in his birthplace his countrymen 
 •are accustomed to have in their immediate vicinity a 
 shop where they may barter their produce for all sorts 
 of European articles. In Greenland we divide this 
 merchandise into what is necessary, useful, or a 
 luxury. But he proved the whole to be nearly super- 
 fluous, for he settled amongst a tribe not only in a 
 state of perfect seclusion, but which had scarcely seen 
 a white man before. 
 
 Fiskernses comprises the trading post of the same 
 name and the Moravian missionary station, Lichten- 
 fels, upon an island, some 3 miles from each other, 
 -and numbering both together 240 inhabitants. For 
 more than 100 years Lichtenfels has been the resi- 
 dence . of from two to four missionaries, who are 
 recruited from Germany. But the natives here are 
 very poor, and the community has decreased nearly 
 ■one-half in the last thirty years. The most obvious 
 feature in their impoverishment is their want of boats 
 for their travelling life in summer. This roaming is 
 necessary not only with regard to their hunting and 
 fishing, but also for their health. It counteracts the 
 ■deadening influence of the climate, and the isolated 
 -situation of the dwelling-places. The natives of 
 Lichtenfels only exceptionally have been farther than 
 so miles from their home, and many, perhaps, never 
 leave it. I note this expressly to throw light on the 
 condition of our author when he was engaged by the 
 foreign travellers. 
 
 Seal-hunting by kayak is still continued by the 
 Greenlanders in the same way as by their ancestors a 
 thousand years ago. The strangers who settled in 
 their land have not taught them the least improve- 
 ment as regards this chief means of subsistence. For 
 this reason, and as they have kept their language un- 
 
 u 2 
 
4 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 altered, the Greenlanders maintain a certain independ- 
 ence, notwithstanding the general supremacy of 
 foreigners. They know that they must wholly rely 
 upon themselves ; and their peculiar life under nume- 
 rous hardships and dangers develops from early youth 
 a faculty of self-help not so often found in civilised 
 societies, where division of labour prevails. For the 
 same reason, poverty has a less depressing influence 
 than elsewhere. The hunter will always keep up a 
 certain degree of mental vivacity contrasting with his. 
 impoverished state. The dangers besetting kayak- 
 hunting are especially bracing. 
 
 The Greenlanders have also taken well to school 
 instruction, and skill in reading and writing is as 
 common amongst them as in any other country. 
 
 The same contempt with which white men look 
 down upon people of other races has amply mani- 
 fested itself in his intercourse with the Eskimo. It has 
 been asserted a hundred years ago, that in Greenland 
 the worst Dane was considered better than the best 
 Greenlander ; and this may be so even occasionally 
 now." If a man brought up as a native seal-hunter takes 
 service with foreigners, many of whom consider him 
 an inferior being, and who can only speak with him 
 imperfectly by interpreters of the superior race, he at 
 times must feel himself misunderstood and wronged. 
 A native like Hans, who was taken from his quiet and 
 solitary homestead and had to live with so many 
 strangers, could not help at times being placed in this 
 condition. What he says on such occasions will 
 therefore be found a natural part of the picture he 
 gives. However, thoroughly to understand the strange 
 suspicions exhibited in some parts of his statement, 
 we must consider the traditions still living amongst 
 the Greenlanders about atrocities formerly committed 
 in their country by foreigners, as well as their indis- 
 tinct ideas of the wars and military discipline of the 
 white men. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 5 
 
 But we see that the instances of feeling himself 
 ■aggrieved were exceptional. That mutual satisfaction 
 was the rule, is also evident from his taking employ so 
 often. As regards his superiors, I shall only remark 
 that the first of them, Kane, praises him as a very 
 •useful and active fellow, on whose energies as a hunter 
 the supplies of the travellers often depended ; and 
 the last of them, Sir George Nares, says in his official 
 report : " All speak in the highest terms of Hans the 
 Eskimo, who was untiring in his exertions with the 
 dog-sledge and in procuring game." 
 
 The American Expedition under Kane. 
 1853-1855., 
 
 The small sketch map which I have added to this 
 book gives an idea of our author's Arctic travelling 
 routes. It will be seen that he shared in all the four 
 renowned expeditions which have thrown light upon 
 the narrow branch of the sea that divides the Green- 
 land from the American Arctic islands. As far as I 
 know he is the only man who did so. These voyages 
 were undertaken with very different resources, but all 
 of them exhibit examples of skill, courage, and per- 
 severance rivalling the most daring enterprises in other 
 parts of the Arctic regions. The final result with 
 regard to the North Pole, that they only explored the 
 whole of Smith's Sound, proves the enormous diffi- 
 culties they had to surmount in forcing their way step 
 by step through this passsage. The chief aim, how- 
 ever, has now been attained. The end of this mys- 
 terious thoroughfare has been reached, and it was 
 found to lead to an ocean, without any land visible, 
 and covered with ice apparently moving only at inter- 
 vals of many years and without the least probability of 
 being navigable, while on the other hand the extra- 
 ordinary ruggedness of the ice defies the sledge. 
 
 The pioneer was Elisha Kent Kane, who had been 
 
Henry Brooks, First Officer. 
 Isaac J. Hayes, M.D., Sur- 
 geon. 
 August Sormtag,Astronomer. 
 John Wall Wilson. 
 James McGary. 
 George Rilay. 
 William Morton. 
 Christian Olsen. 
 
 6 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 appointed Surgeon to the Grinnel Expedition in 
 search of John Franklin in the years 1850 to 1851. 
 As the leader of a new expedition he left New York 
 on the 30th of May 1853, in the brig ' Advance.' He- 
 touched at Fiskernaes, where he engaged Hans ; and 
 at Upernivik, where he obtained another worthy 
 helper, a Dane named Carl Petersen, who_ became 
 .famous afterwards as interpreter and assistant to 
 Arctic navigators. 
 
 The other members of the company were — 
 
 Henry Goodfellow. 
 Amos Bonsall. 
 George Stephenson. 
 George Whipple. 
 William Godfrey. 
 John Blake. 
 Jefferson Baker. 
 Peter Schubert. 
 Thomas Hickey. 
 
 Kane took his winter-quarters in Rensselaer Har- 
 bour, lat. 78° 30'. This place being 15 north of 
 Fiskernaes, where during the shortest day the sun 
 appears about two hours above the horizon, it is not 
 wonderful that Hans was surprised by a perpetual 
 night of about four months' duration. His ideas of 
 the northernmost regions must have been derived 
 from the tales and traditions of the Greenlanders j 
 and these, as far as I remember, seldom mention the 
 darkness in winter, but chiefly dwell on the severity 
 of the weather. However, I am inclined to believe 
 that his terror was partly connected with his ideas, 
 about the destruction of the world, which may have- 
 been rooted in his imagination at an early age. 
 
 From his two years' winter-quarters on the eastern 
 border of the sound, Kane, by help of dog and drag 
 sledges, undertook surveys in different directions, 
 partly across to the American side, but mainly along 
 the coast, pursuing it northward, to find, if possible, 
 the northern end of Greenland. Of these sledge 
 
INTRODUCTION. 7 
 
 expeditions, that of Morton and Hans reached the 
 highest latitude — 80° 40' — and discovered the open 
 water long said to be connected with an open sea 
 around the North Pole. 
 
 In his travelling account, Dr. Kane goes beyond 
 what he promises in his preface — a simple narrative 
 of the adventures of his party. He has set forth 
 theories which afterwards proved unfounded. This, 
 of course, has injured his work, but not cast into the 
 shade the merits of this gallant and talented man, 
 who brought us the first intelligence from those inhos- 
 pitable regions. His book gave numerous interesting 
 and remarkable facts concerning northernmost Green- 
 land, obtained by immense labour and rare efforts. 
 Especially is his information valuable on the mode of 
 life of the small isolated population of all mankind 
 nearest to either Pole, braving the climate from the 
 abundance of walruses, bears, and other animals, first 
 described by Kane. 
 
 It is well known that Kane, in 1855, abandoned 
 his vessel, and made his escape in boats to the most 
 northerly Danish trading station, Upernivik. Only 
 Hans remained, settling amongst the natives of 
 Smith's Sound. 
 
 Hie American Expedition under Hayes. 
 i860— 1861. 
 
 I. J. Hayes, who acted as Surgeon of the expe- 
 dition commanded by Dr. Kane, after his return, 
 drew up a plan for a new exploring voyage towards 
 the North Pole, via. Smith's Sound. With this object 
 he applied to the scientific public for assistance ; first 
 the American Geographical and Statistical Society, 
 before which he read a paper in December 1857., 
 setting forth his scheme, and the means proposed for 
 its accomplishment. Notwithstanding his indefatigable 
 zeal, he did not succeed in fitting out an expedition 
 
8 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 by aid of private subscription before i860. On 
 July 7th he left Boston, in the schooner 'United 
 States,' accompanied by the Astronomer, Sonntag, 
 who had been with Kane. 
 
 The whole list of the company was — 
 
 I. J. Hayes, Commander. 
 
 August Sonntag, Astronomer and second in command. 
 
 S. J. McCormick, Sailing Master. 
 
 Henry W. Dodge, Mate. 
 
 Henry G. Radcliffe, Assistant Astronomer. 
 
 George F. Knorr, Commander's Secretary. 
 
 Collin C. Starr, Master's Mate. 
 
 Gibson Caruthers, Boatswain and Carpenter. 
 
 Volunteers. 
 Francis L. Harris and Harvey Heywood. 
 
 Seamen. 
 
 Thomas Barnum. 
 John McDonald. 
 Charles McCormick. 
 
 William Miller. 
 John Williams. 
 
 The ship touched at Upernivik and at the outpost 
 Tasiusak, northward of this settlement, where the 
 party was increased to twenty-one souls, namely, by — 
 
 Danes. 
 Peter Jensen, Interpreter and Dog-manager. 
 Carl Emil Olsvig, Sailor. 
 Carl Christian Petersen, Sailor and Carpenter. 
 
 Eskimo Hunters and Dog-drivers. 
 Peter, Marcus, Jacob. 
 
 At the end of August they touched at Cape York 
 and picked up Hans and his wife and child. 
 
 Hayes did not bring his ship quite as far as Kane, 
 the hindrances from the drift-ice proving still greater 
 this year. But the difference was only small ; and, on 
 the other hand, it must be remembered that Hayes 
 brought his ship safe home. He took winter-quarters 
 in Port Foulke, 40 miles S.W. of Rensselaer Harbour. 
 On November 19th, the native Peter, or " Pele," dis- 
 appeared; and on December 21st, just in the middle 
 
INTRODUCTION. 9 
 
 of the winter night, two months before the sun should 
 re-appear, Hans and Sonntag started on their fatal 
 journey, from which the latter was never to return. 
 As alluded to by Hans, it was suggested by some on 
 board that he had caused Peter to run away, and 
 given false report as to Dr. Sonntag's death, which he 
 had not taken pains enough to prevent. I only 
 mention this as a curiosity, in connection with what 
 I have stated above on the relations between the 
 Eskimo and the foreigners in general. 
 
 On April 3rd, Hayes set out with a party consisting 
 of twelve men, having one dog-sledge and one hand- 
 drawn sledge, to cross Smith's Sound, and proceed as 
 . far as possible to the north on the other side. The 
 difficulties were of the most disheartening kind. The 
 whole sound was filled with drift-ice of the most 
 massive description, crushed, piled up, and now frozen 
 together, and having the spaces and crevasses between 
 the hummocks more or less filled with drifted snow. 
 It was like an accumulation of rocks closely packed 
 and heaped up over a waste plain in great clusters and 
 endless ridges, leaving scarcely a foot of level surface. 
 The travellers had to pick their way as best they could 
 amongst the inequalities, crawling over the walls of 
 screwed ice and sometimes even climbing bergs 
 more than 50 feet high. The obstacles encoun- 
 tered may be judged of by the fact that the journey 
 of 80 miles across the sound took thirty-one days, 
 notwithstanding the utmost exertions of strong and 
 persevering men. The drag-sledge was left behind, 
 and at last Hayes retained only one companion, 
 George Knorr, with whom he reached his furthest 
 point on the 18th of May, supposed to be a half 
 degree farther north than the latitude reached by Hans 
 and Morton on the opposite side in 1854. 
 
 July 14th, 1861, the ship was released and left Port 
 Foulke. August 15 th, it anchored in the harbour of 
 Upernivik. 
 
10 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The American ' Polaris ' Expedition under Hall. 
 1871— 1873. 
 
 Charles Francis Pall, a native of Cincinnati, had 
 made two previous voyages to the Arctic regions, and 
 by a long residence amongst the Eskimo thoroughly 
 acclimatized himself, and acquired a complete know- 
 ledge of Eskimo life. He was neither seaman nor 
 possessed of scientific acquirements, but an enthu- 
 siastic leader who had wholly devoted himself to 
 Arctic discovery. For the expedition now in question 
 he had a whaling Captain, Buddington, as his sailing- 
 master. Dr. Bessels who had studied in Heidelberg, 
 and had already made one trip to the Arctic regions, 
 was the leader of the scientific explorations. The 
 ' Polaris,' to whose equipment Congress had con- 
 tributed 30,000 dollars, left New York June 29th 1871. 
 The last letter from Hall was dated Tasiusak in lat. 
 73 si', August 24th. The passage north proved so 
 exceptionally favourable this year, that from about 
 the latter place the ' Polaris ' reached her furthest 
 northern point in Smith's Sound, lat. 82 12', in five 
 days. 
 
 Here they were stopped, and though- Hall was very 
 reluctant to turn back, they followed the advice of the 
 sailing-master and took winter quarters in Polaris Bay 
 in lat. 81° 27'. Eighteen miles north of this place the 
 ice appeared heavier than anywhere further south, but 
 all visible from the harbour seemed only of one year's 
 growth. From their furthest point they believe they 
 saw land in a northerly direction, stretching as far as 
 84°. Hall died of apoplexy in November 187 1. His 
 attack was caused by want of caution in exposing 
 himself to a sudden change of temperature on a sledge 
 journey. Therelation which Hans gives of his wife's 
 sickness and vision is very characteristic with regard 
 to the belief of the natives in the so called " Kivigtoks." 
 By this name are denoted persons who flee mankind 
 
INTRODUCTION. 1 1 
 
 taking refuge in the desolate interior of Greenland. 
 By living alone with nature they are supposed to obtain 
 supernatural faculties. Their senses are sharpened so 
 as to enable them to perceive what passes many miles 
 off, they understand the speech of animals, and move 
 with the quickness of a bird's flight. The reasons 
 which lead men to become Kivigtoks are supposed to 
 be unjust treatment by their house-mates or- relatives, 
 who in this case always were considered in danger of 
 vengeance from the hand of the fugitive. People who 
 are in a state of madness or, as Hans's wife in this 
 instance, of delirium, are considered especially able to 
 communicate with supernatural beings and to see 
 absent and concealed things. The disappearance to 
 which her vision refers, must have taken place at 
 Proven, the station south of Upernivik, where they 
 lived before they embarked in the ' Polaris.' It also 
 seems a supernatural feature that she had forgotten 
 her meeting with the Kivigtok, until she grew de- 
 lirious. 
 
 The ' Polaris ' left her winter-quarters in the 
 summer of 1872, was beset, and drifted down Smith's 
 Sound. It was on the 15th of October that the 
 movement of the frozen mass in a heavy gale caused 
 the ship's crew to land boats and provisions on the 
 ice, to be prepared for the worst. In the following 
 night the accident occurred which separated the ship's 
 company. 
 
 The following persons were left upon the ice : — 
 
 Tyson, Second Captain. 
 
 F. Meyer, Assistant to Dr. 
 
 Bessels. * 
 
 John Herron. 
 J. W. Kruger. 
 W. Jackson. 
 W. Linclennann. 
 Peter Johnson. 
 
 F. Anthing. 
 
 G. W. Linguist. 
 Fred. Jamka. 
 
 Joe, Eskimo from the West 
 Coast, with his wife, 
 Hanna, and one foster- 
 daughter [ ? ]. 
 
 Hans and his wife, with (as 
 far as I can make out) the 
 following four children :— 
 Augustina, Tobias, Sophia, 
 and Charlie Polaris (aged 
 two months). 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The following persons were drifted off with the 
 ship : — 
 
 Herman Siemens. 
 Henry Hobby. 
 W. F. Campbell. 
 
 Mr. R. Bryant, Assistant 
 
 Astronomer. 
 Jos. Maneh. 
 John Booth. 
 
 Captain Buddington. 
 Dr. Bessels. 
 
 Capt. Chester, First Mate. 
 Mr. Morton, Second Mate. 
 Mr. Schumann, Engineer. 
 Mr. Odell, Second Engineer. 
 Nathan Coffin, Carpenter. 
 Noah Hayes. 
 
 The ' Polaris ' was run ashore in the entrance of 
 Smith's Sound, where the party of fourteen passed the 
 winter. They built two boats out of the wreck, left 
 their winter-quarters on the 4th of June, and were 
 picked up on the 23d of June by the whaling vessel 
 ' .Ravenscraig.' 
 
 The party left upon the ice were rescued on the 
 30th of April 1873 by the 'Tigress,' in lat. 53 35', 
 not far from Newfoundland. Their ice-floe, which at 
 first had a few miles in circumference, was successively 
 reduced to a diameter of a hundred yards. Upon 
 this they passed six months, nearly half of which 
 must have been perpetual night, and they travelled at 
 the same time about 1500 miles over the ocean. As 
 far as I can make out, they should have perished, if 
 they had got no seals that could supply them with oil 
 for their lamps ; but I have searched in vain for 
 information, whether the two Eskimo men were the 
 only members of the party who caught them ; and, if 
 not, how many were killed by the other ten. 
 
 The English Expedition tinder Captain Nares. 
 1875—1876. 
 
 The ships ' Alert,' commanded by Captain Nares, 
 leader of the expedition, and ' Discovery,' commanded 
 by Captain Stephenson, left England on the 29th of 
 May 1875. Smith's Sound was not found more free 
 than usual, and, considering the sacrifice of time arid 
 labour hitherto on the exploration of this inlet, we 
 
INTRODUCTION. 1 3 
 
 shall be able to appreciate the masterly manoeuvre by 
 which the vessels were conducted through it. The 
 constant drift of the heavy floes, which closed on 
 each other with great force, required constant watch- 
 fulness, lest the ships, caught between them, should 
 be instantaneously crushed. Keeping to the west 
 side of the sound, they had to be secured in the best 
 way possible when the road appeared quite blocked up, 
 while every favourable moment for proceeding had to 
 be used, and a very tortuous course to be followed. 
 
 In about the extreme latitude that had been reached 
 by the ' Polaris,' the ' Discovery,' on board of which 
 was our author, took, her winter-quarters in a con- 
 venient harbour. The ' Alert ' then continued coasting 
 northward, but now met with drift of extraordinary 
 dimensions, exhibiting a thickness of from 40 to 
 80 feet. They succeeded, however, in reaching the 
 very end of the sound, and what lay beyond it now 
 turned out to be a frozen ocean, without any land to 
 be sighted to the north. It was from this icy floor 
 that the heavy pack was detached which had been 
 met with during the last part of the voyage. Off the 
 open coast facing this frozen sea the ship anchored, 
 sheltered by a row of ice-blocks. These, from their 
 enormous thickness, had grounded, in this way 
 forming her winter harbour in lat. 82° 30'. 
 
 Sledge parties were sent out from both ships iu 
 autumn, but especially in spring, to explore in three 
 directions — eastwards the coast of Greenland ; west- 
 wards, the north coast of the American Arctic islands ; 
 and northwards, the frozen sea, trying to penetrate it 
 as far as possible. 
 
 To the east, Lieutenants Beaumont and Rawson 
 reached a cape which in all probability is the northern- 
 most point of Greenland, or, at least, near to it. As 
 these explorations of northernmost Greenland, oppo- 
 site the winter-quarters of the two ships, were those 
 in which Hans shared, I insert the following abstract 
 of Captain Nares' report concerning them : — 
 
14 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 "On April 18, Lieut. Rawson and Mr Egerton returned, 
 having succeeded in crossing the channel without finding more 
 than the usual difficulties amongst the heavy hummocks, which 
 they had now become so accustomed to. They had landed on 
 the Greenland coast north of the position marked as Repulse 
 Harbour, which proves to be only a slight indentation in the 
 coast line, having a fresh-water lake inshore of it, which from 
 an inland view might readily be mistaken for a harbour. 
 
 "On April 20, Lieut. Beaumont, accompanied by Lieut. 
 
 Rawson and Dr. Coppinger, started for his Greenland 
 
 exploration, the few days' rest having materially benefited his 
 
 men, who may be said to have started from the ' Discovery ' 
 
 unexperienced in Arctic sledging, that ship having had no 
 
 autumn travelling in consequence of the ice remaining in motion 
 
 until a very late period of the season. 
 
 * * * * * * * * * 
 
 " On May 9, by the return of Lieut. May and Mr. Egerton 
 from Greenland, whither they had carried supplies and succeeded 
 in discovering a practicable overland route immediately east of 
 Cape Brevort fit for the use of the returning sledges should the 
 ice break up, I received news of Lieut. Beaumont's party up to 
 May 4, when he was within two miles of Cape Stanton. From 
 their place of crossing the Straits they found that the coast line 
 for nearly the entire distance to Cape Stanton was formed either 
 by precipitous cliffs or very steep snow slopes, -the bases of which 
 receive the direct and unchecked pressure of the northern pack 
 as it drifts from the north-westward and strikes against that part 
 of the coast nearly at right angles. The floe-bergs, at their 
 maximum sizes, were pressed high up one over the other against 
 the steep shore ; the chaos outside was something indescribable, 
 and the travelling the worst that can possibly be imagined, seven 
 days being occupied in moving forward only twenty miles. 
 Being quite uncertain when such a road might become im- 
 passable by the ice breaking up in May as it did in 1872, a. 
 depot of provisions, sufficient for a return journey by land, was 
 wisely left, but Lieut. Beaumont's journey was thus shortened 
 considerably. 
 ****** * * * 
 
 "On June 1, Mr. Crawford Conybeare arrived with news 
 from the 'Discovery' up to May 22. Lieut. Archer had 
 completed his examination of the opening in the land west of 
 Lady Franklin Sound, proving it to be a deep fiord terminating 
 in mountainous land, with glacier-covered valleys in the interior. 
 , "Lieut. Reginald B. Fulford, with the men returned from 
 Lieut. Archer's party, then transported two boats across Hall's 
 Basin to assist Lieut. Beaumont in his return later in the season. 
 Capt. Stephenson accompanied by Mr. Henry C. Hart, naturalist, 
 overtook this party on the 12th at Polaris Bay. On the 
 
INTRODUCTION. 1 5 
 
 following day, the American flag being hoisted, a brass tablet 
 prepared in England was erected at the foot of Capt. Hall's 
 grave with due solemnity. It bore the following inscription : — 
 
 ' Sacred 
 
 to the Memory of 
 
 Captain C. F. Hall, 
 
 of the U.S. Ship ' Polaris, ' 
 
 who sacrificed his Life 
 
 in the advancement of Science, 
 
 on the 8th November, 1871. 
 
 ' This tablet has been erected by the British Polar 
 
 Expedition of 1875, who, following in his footsteps, 
 
 have profited by his experience.' 
 
 "Dr. Coppinger, when returning from assisting Lieut. Beau- 
 mont, had visited Capt. Hall's Cairn at Cape Brevort, and 
 the boat depot in Newman's Bay, and conveyed the few articles 
 of any value to the 'Discovery.' The boat itself, with the 
 exception of one hole, easily repairable, was in a serviceable 
 condition. Capt. Stephenson returned to the ' Discovery ' on 
 May 18, leaving Lieut. Fulford and Dr. Coppinger on the 
 Greenland shore to explore Petermann Fiord. Mr. Crawford 
 Conybeare having reported that the travelling along shore in 
 Robeson Channel was fast becoming impracticable in conse- 
 quence of the ice being in motion near the shore, his party were 
 
 kept on board the ' Alert.' 
 ********* 
 
 " On August 6, while the ' Alert ' was imprisoned by the ice 
 twenty miles north of Discovery Harbour, during her passage 
 down Robeson Channel, Lieut. Rawson and two men arrived 
 with letters from Capt. Stephenson containing the distressing 
 intelligence that scurvy had attacked the Greenland Division of 
 sledges with as much severity as it had visited the travellers from 
 the 'Alert,' and that Lieut. Beaumont was then at Polaris Bay 
 recruiting his men. I must refer you, Sir, to Capt. Stephen- 
 son's letters and to Lieut. Lewis A. Beaumont's report for a full 
 detail of the proceeding of* this party, but I may here mention 
 the chief points. I have already reported their movements up 
 to May 5, when Dr. Coppinger left them ; Lieut. Beaumont with 
 two sledge crews journeying to the north-eastward along the 
 north coast of Greenland, all apparently in good health. A 
 very few days after, James J. Hand, A.B., who .had passed the 
 winter on board of the 'Alert,' showed symptoms of scurvy. 
 As soon as the nature of the disease was decided, Lieut. 
 ' Beaumont determined to send Lieut. Rawson with three men 
 and the invalid back to Polaris Bay, and to continue the 
 exploration with reduced numbers. Lieut. Wyatt Rawson 
 parted company on his return on May 1 1 ; but owing to two 
 
1 6 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 more of his crew breaking down, leaving only himself and one 
 man strong enough to drag the sledge on which lay the 
 principal sufferer, and to look after the other two, he only 
 succeeded in reaching the depot on June 3, James J. Hand 
 unhappily dying from the extreme fatigue a few hours after the 
 arrival of the party at Polaris Bay. Out of the other men 
 forming the sledge crew, who had all passed the winter on board 
 the 'Alert,' only one of them — Elijah Rayner, Gunner, R.M.A. 
 — escaped the insidious disease ; George Bryant, 1st clsss petty 
 officer and captain of the sledge, and Michael Regan, A.B., 
 were both attacked, the former, although in a very bad state, 
 manfully refused to the last to be earned on the sledge, knowing 
 that his extra weight would endanger the lives of all. 
 
 "I cannot praise Lieut. Rawson's conduct on this occasion too 
 highly ; it is entirely due to his genial but firm command of his 
 party, inspiriting as he did his crippled band, who relied with 
 the utmost confidence on. him, that they succeeded in reaching 
 the depot. His return being totally unexpected, no relief was 
 thought of, nor, indeed, were there any men to send. On June 7 
 Lieut. Fulford and Dr. Coppinger, with Hans and the dog- 
 sledge, returned to Polaris Bay dep6t from the exploration of 
 Petermann Fiord ; and, with the help of some fresh seal meat 
 and the professional skill and care of Dr. Coppinger, the malady 
 was checked and the sick men gradually regained strength. 
 
 " Lieut. Beaumont, continuing his journey on May 21, 
 succeeded -in reaching lat. 82° 18' N., long. 50° 40' W., dis- 
 covered land, apparently an island, but, owing to the nature of 
 the ice, probably a continuation of the Greenland coast, 
 extending to lat. 82° 54' N., long. 48 33' W. By this time two 
 more of the crew showed symptoms of scurvy, and soon after the 
 return journey was commenced the whole party were attacked, 
 until at last Lieut. Beaumont, Alexander Gray, sergeant-quarter- 
 master captain of the sledge, and Frank Jones, stoker, were 
 alone able to drag, the other four men having to be carried 
 forward on the sledge in detachments, which necessitated always 
 double and most frequently treble journeys over the rough and 
 ■disheartening icy road ; nevertheless^ the gallant band straggled 
 manfully onwards, thankful if they made one mile a day, but 
 never losing heart ; but Lieut. Beaumont's anxiety being intense 
 lest relief should arrive too late to save the lives of the worst 
 cases. Not arriving at Polaris Bay on the day expected, Lieut. 
 Wyatt Rawson and Dr. Richard W. Coppinger, with Hans and 
 the dog-sledge, started on June 22 to look for them, the two 
 parties providentially meeting in Newman's Bay, twenty miles 
 from the depot. The following day Frank Jones being unable 
 to drag any longer, walked ; leaving the three officers and 
 Alexander Gray to drag the four invalids, the dogs carrying on 
 the provisions and equipage. On the 27th, Alexander Gray was 
 
INTRODUCTION. 1 7 
 
 obliged to give in, and the officers had to drag the sledge by 
 themselves, Gray and Jones hobbling along as best they could. 
 On the 28th, being within a day's march of the depot with the 
 dogs, the two worst cases were sent on in charge of Dr. 
 Coppinger, and arrived at the end of the march, but I regret to 
 .state that Charles W. Paul, A.B., who joined the expedition 
 from the ' Valorous ' at Disco, at the last moment, died shortly 
 after their arrival. The remainder of the party, helped by Hans 
 and the dogs arrived at the depfit on July 1, and it being 
 impossible to cross the strait and return to the ' Discovery ' before 
 the invalids were recruited, at once settled themselves down for 
 a month's stay, those able to get about shooting game for the 
 sufferers with such success that they obtained a daily ration of 
 fresh meat. It was entirely due, under Providence, to the timely 
 assistance dispatched by Lieut. Rawson, who, as senior officer at 
 Polaris Bay, when there was not time to cross Hall's Basin and 
 inform Capt. Stephenson of his apprehensions, acted promptly 
 on his own authority and went to the relief of Lieut. Beaumont's 
 party, that more casualties did not occur. 
 
 ' ' After such details it is scarcely necessary for me to allude to 
 the services of Lieut. Beaumont. The command of the Green- 
 land sledges, entailing as it did the crossing and recrossing of 
 Robeson Channel — which in 1872 remained in motion all the 
 season — required even greater care and judgment than is always- 
 necessary in the leader of an Arctic sledge party. My confidence 
 in Lieut. Beaumont, as expressed in my original orders to him, 
 was fully borne out by his careful conduct of the party throughout 
 this trying and most harassing march. He is a most judicious, 
 determined, and intelligent leader, and as such I bring his services 
 to the notice of their Lordships. 
 
 " Capt. Stephenson, by personal inspection having satisfied 
 himself that the resources of the Polaris depot were sufficient and 
 appropriate for the subsistence of the men detached to the 
 Greenland shore, although naturally anxious at their non-arrival 
 on board the ' Discovery, ' was not alarmed for their safety. On 
 July 12, Lieut. Fulford, with two men and the dog-sledge, were 
 despatched across Hall's Basin to Discovery Bay, and arrived 
 there on the third day, having found the ice in motion on the 
 west side of the channel, and experiencing much difficulty in 
 effecting a landing., On the receipt of the news, Capt. Stephen- 
 son instantly started with a relief party, carrying medical com- 
 forts, and arrived at Polaris Bay on the 19th. On the following 
 day the ice was in motion on both sides of the channel. On the 
 29th Capt. Stephenson, with Lieut. Rawson, Hans, and four 
 able men, with two invalids who could walk, started with the 
 dingy for Discovery Bay, and after a very wet journey they landed 
 on the west shore on August 2, Lieut. Beaumont and Dr. Cop- 
 pinger, with five strong men, being left for a few days longer in 
 
 C 
 
1 8 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 order to give the other two invalids further time to recruit. The 
 whole party ultimately, re-crossed the strait, and arrived at Dis- 
 covery Bay on August 14, having been absent from their ship 
 120 days, several of the party who had wintered on board of the 
 ' Alert ' having been absent since August 26 the previous year," 
 
 To the westward, the north coast of the American 
 Arctic Archipelago was surveyed by Lieut. Aldrich. 
 
 Over the ice straight to the northward, Captain 
 Markham, with Lieutenant Parr, proceeded to 83° 20', 
 the highest latitude known to have been reached. 
 Compared with the time it took, the number of miles 
 made towards the North Pole appears small ; but 
 what were these miles ? Contrary to what had been 
 expected, no sheltering land existed to the northward, 
 and the ice, by being pushed on the shore and screwed 
 together, had been piled with an unevenness that 
 appeared made to mock travellers in search of a 
 sledge road. The blocks were flung up in hillocks 
 and walls 30 feet high, and the floes often raised on 
 edge, so as to render it impossible to cross them, and 
 requiring passages to be hewn through them. The 
 soft snow that filled the deep holes and ravines tended 
 to complete the terrible difficulties met with. When 
 Captain Markham started, with his brave associates, 
 on the 3rd of April, the thermometer still showed 
 -^40°. During their extraordinary fatigues scurvy 
 broke out, and attacked them one after another, so 
 that the sick had to be dragged by the remaining 
 healthy men. In returning to the vessel on the 5th- 
 of June, the latter were no longer sufficient to proceed 
 farther with the sick. Lieutenant Parr then ran in 
 advance to the ship, which he reached without resting 
 in twenty-two hours. But before assistance could be 
 brought the weakest of the sufferers had died. 
 
 During 142 days the sun was below the horizon — 
 the longest winter night known. They also had the 
 severest season that has been observed. During 
 thirteen days the mean temperature was ^58°, the 
 greatest cold experienced -f 73° on the ' Alert/ and 
 
INTRODUCTION. 1 9 
 
 -f 7°° on the ' Discovery.' On the 12th of March, 
 Lieutenants Rawson and Egerton started in a dog- 
 sledge with a Dane, N. C. Petersen. On the way 
 
 the latter was overpowered by the cold. By the 
 utmost efforts his companions succeeded in bringing 
 him alive back to the vessel. But they had to 
 
 -amputate both his feet, and he died on the 14th of 
 May. August 20th, both ships left Discovery Har- 
 bour on their return voyage. 
 
 Concluding Remarks. 
 
 Hans Hendrik is now boatswain and labourer at 
 the Greenland settlements. From the fees he received 
 during his Arctic travelling life he has saved what, 
 amongst his present comrades, may be considered a 
 ..good deal of money, the interest on which makes a 
 relatively considerable addition to his scanty wages. 
 These servants having a pretty long time in the year 
 for their private business, I suppose he continues the 
 -occupations by which he has earned both money and 
 reputation, namely, sledging and seal-hunting, 
 
 I have said that the present account gives an idea 
 of how a native Greenlander feels and thinks, and 
 •how he is able to express his sentiments. He left his 
 home at the age of eighteen, and spent six years 
 ■amongst the heathen natives in Smiths Sound. From 
 his home he brought, besides some skill in reading 
 •and writing, his religious ideas, and especially that 
 firm belief in a merciful God which has strengthened 
 him in braving so many hardships. In other respects, 
 notwithstanding his intercourse with the foreigners, he 
 has maintained his nationality. I leave it to the 
 reader himself to form an opinion of Hans and his 
 ■countrymen, the Eskimo, from his own words. 
 
 In reading his pages I have asked myself how the 
 narrator, if he did not keep a diary, could retain 
 within his memory such an amount of details. In 
 -some places, especially in the last part, there are some 
 indications of his having written notes during his 
 
 c 2 
 
20 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 travels; and his friend and late superior, Herr 
 Rudolph, has told me that he received from Hans 
 some papers in which he had described the country 
 about Smith Sound and its inhabitants. However, 
 there is no doubt that the greater part of the narrative 
 has been compiled from memory. For this reason, it 
 is not to be wondered at if inaccuracies or confusion 
 of details occur here and there; but, on the whole, 
 such irregularities, if found, will be of very little weight. 
 
 The manuscript is written in tolerably plain and 
 intelligible Greenlandish. But, as this is still a diffi- 
 cult language, as the writer is an unlearned man, and 
 as I had nobody at hand to assist me, some words 
 Here and there remained inexplicable or doubtful, and 
 some sentences unclear. These instances I have in- 
 dicated by marks of interrogation. I have retained 
 the curious spelling of foreign names, and the use of 
 " thou " instead of " you," which has nothing corre- 
 sponding in Eskimo speech. The denomination 
 " Tuluk," English, here sometimes means English and 
 American, sometimes the former in contrast to the 
 latter. " Kavdlunak " properly signifies foreigners of 
 in European race, whites/but here sometimes " Danes " 
 opposition to other white men. Words such as "Tarti- 
 kene" and "Tart Eise" show how imperfectly the 
 author has understood English. I have guessed 
 that they are formed out of " Doctor Kane " and 
 " Doctor Hayes," but could not make out exactly 
 what is meant with them. Explanations by myself 
 are inserted in brackets : [ J. 
 
 For various reasons I have here and there omitted 
 a few lines, and made the text a little less diffuse in 
 form. But I have added nothing. H. Rink. 
 
 Copenhagen, November 16th, 1877. 
 
 In looking over Director Rink's version, I have 
 altered as little as possible. I thought it best to let 
 Hans Hendrik write in the naive way to be expected 
 from such a child of nature. G. S. 
 
21 
 
 THE TALE OF MY TRAVELS 
 
 HIGH NORTH, 
 
 [The Author's Home, his Voyage with Dr. Kane, 
 and settling down at Smith Sound.'] 
 
 To relate how the northern part of the big country- 
 came to be explored, I write this — I, Hans Hendrik, 
 who first lived at Kekertarsuatsiak [Fiskernses], be- 
 longing to the Germans [Moravians], but have now 
 removed north, to Kangersuatsiak, belonging to 
 TJpernivik. 
 
 I was born in the German [missionary station of] 
 Kekertarsuatsiak, which had three priests, and my 
 father served the priests. He used td go to the other 
 stations to lead divine service there on the great holi- 
 days. His name was Benjamin. My mother had the 
 charge of the church lamps. Her name was Ernestine. 
 She had come from the south, from Agdluitsok, from 
 the end of the country [Cape Farewell]. Thus my 
 dear parents at first lived far from each other, my 
 father being an inhabitant of Kekertarsuatsiak, while 
 my mother was born at the end of the land. My 
 father's children by his first wife were seven altogether, 
 
2 2 VOYAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 three sons and four daughters ; but by my mother he 
 had five children, four sons and a female child, 
 scarcely to be mentioned, because she died as an 
 infant. I was next to the eldest, this female. I left: 
 my brothers still children, I was just growing a real 
 kayaker, having got a few seals by harpooning. My 
 next brother was only a small kayaker, his namewas. 
 Simion. But next to him was Joel, who was trained 
 up at Nouk to become a teacher, and he stayed there- 
 two years. Our youngest was named Nathaniel. The 
 year after my father's death I departed, this first time 
 joining Arctic travellers, an American sailing vessel.* 
 
 I heard that they were looking for a native com- 
 panion, and that his parents should have payment 
 during his absence. Nobody being willing, I, Hans. 
 Hendrik, finally took a liking to join them, and I said 
 I would go. The ship's Master tried to get one- 
 assistant more, but did not succeed. I went to inform 
 my mother of my intention, and she gainsaid me and 
 begged me not to join them. But 1 replied, " If no 
 mischief happen me, I shall return, and I shall earn 
 money for thee ; but certainly I pity my dear younger 
 brothers who have not grown food-winners as yet, 
 especially the youngest, Nathaniel." At last we 
 started, and when I left my countrymen and relatives, 
 to be sure it was very disheartening. Still, I thought, 
 if I do not perish I shall return. How strange ! This 
 was not to be fulfilled. 
 
 We left Kekertarsuatsiak and first landed at 
 Maneetsok, but without anchoring, only trying to get 
 some reindeer skins. Leaving this place, we met with 
 a kayaker far out at sea, although a gale was blowing 
 from the north. On asking him who he was, he said 
 he was Amase from Nouk. The man I knew very 
 well, as I had seen him often, a first-rate seal-catcher, 
 now going to hunt reindeer north of Maneetsok. But 
 
 * Dr. Kane's Expedition, 1853. 
 
PROCEEDING TO THE NORTHERN DESERTS. 2? 
 
 proceeding northward we finally landed south of 
 Upernivik, at Kangersuatsiak, and there remained 
 pretty long, I have forgotten how many days. We 
 went also to Upernivik in a boat, the ship sailing at 
 the same time, but we reached it first. 
 
 At Upernivik we engaged as our companion a Kavd- 
 lunak [European], Carl Petersen, whom the natives 
 called Naparsisortak [the new cooper] — a very good 
 Kavdlunak he was, and he took care of me. When 
 we came to Upernivik, I was invited to eat in the 
 great house, as he lived in the merchant's house. He 
 was married to the midwife, and she and their children 
 all treated me kindly. Leaving Upernivik we went 
 very far to the north, and we landed at a desert north 
 of where people lived — it was not far from an aban- 
 doned winter station. When we had landed we fell 
 in with the carcass of a white whale. Although pretty 
 fresh, the birds had eaten the upper part of the skin, 
 but the lower part was still untouched, and Napar- 
 sisortak and I got a store of matak [eatable skin]. 
 Here we stayed, I think, for three days, and boiled the 
 oil out of it. 
 
 Then again we started, but, meeting with heavy 
 drift-ice, made the land, and came to a native house, 
 the northernmost of the many wintering stations 
 thereabouts : its name was Anoritok. As a strong 
 southern breeze drove the ice a little from the shore, 
 we went on thence. A strong gale was blowing ; on 
 one side of our craft the gunwale went under the sea. 
 Finally, they could not help running against the ice, 
 the ship's prow being lifted on its top. Not until it 
 grew calm could they get off again. This was the 
 first collision of our vessel with the ice. We con- 
 tinued between the shore-ice [ice-foot] and the drift- 
 ice, and our ship at last ran aground. We then 
 fastened it with a rope from the mast to the shore- 
 ice, and when high water set in we proceeded behind 
 the drift-ice and along the shore-ice. In this way we 
 
24 VOYAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 at length reached open water, inside of which we 
 found a fine wintering-place, frequented by both hares 
 and reindeer. But when I went out to shoot hares, 
 I only got a few, sometimes one, sometimes two or 
 three, and, although I searched for reindeer, I could 
 not get sight of any. When winter set in we used 
 to go ashore, two Tuluks [English] and I, to look for 
 any sort of game ; but we only met with hares and a 
 few reindeer, the latter very shy, but the hares easy 
 to get at. 
 
 In the first beginning of the winter a boat set out 
 to the north, manned by nearly all hands. Only I 
 and one Kavdlunak, with the cook and two sailors, 
 remained. They stayed away for a long time, but I 
 have forgotten how many days. At last, when the 
 sea was frozen, they returned, walking over the ice, 
 ' and having left the boat frozen up. 
 
 Then it really grew winter and dreadfully cold, and 
 the sky speedily darkened. Never had I seen the 
 dark season like this, to be sure it was awful, I thought 
 we should have no daylight any more. I was seized 
 with fright, and fell a weeping, I never in my life saw 
 such darkness at noon time. As the darkness con- 
 tinued for three months, I really believed we should 
 have no daylight more. However, finally it dawned, 
 and brightness having set in, I used to go shooting 
 hares. One day, when thus returning from a hare- 
 hunt, I saw a crowd of people near the ship. Only 
 think ! they were the northern natives whom here I 
 saw for the first time. On approaching the ship, two 
 natives came running towards me. The foremost of 
 them, when he had reached me, accosted me in a-very 
 civil manner : " Art thou a native ? " I answered : 
 " Yes, I am a native." He : " Hast thou got any 
 hares ?" I : " Yes, I have got three hares." He : 
 " With what sort of weapon hast thou got them ?" 
 I : " Look here, my gun." But when I spoke thus 
 he did not comprehend, but examined it, how it was. 
 
THE FIRST MEETING WITH NATIVES. 25 
 
 I said : " It goes 'very far, taking hares, reindeer, 
 ptarmigans, and Natsek-seals." On hearing this he 
 started. When I arrived at the ship, I could hardly 
 get along for the people, who would know what I said, 
 but did not understand all my words. So, as I could 
 scarcely get on board, the mate gave me a hand's 
 turn, the natives, for mere civility, being unable to 
 assist me. 
 
 When first I saw these people, whom I knew 
 nothing about, and nobody had examined, I feared 
 they might perhaps be murderers, as they lived apart 
 from any Kavdlunak ; but, on the contrary, they were 
 harmless men. In the evening they went to sleep 
 on board the vessel. The Tuluks offered them some- 
 thing to eat, bread and beef, and such like, with tea, 
 but they did . not relish them, they only tried some 
 little bits. They said : " We cannot eat it ;" and 
 added, that they should like to have some hare-meat. 
 But our Commander was careful of our hares. The 
 next day, when they left us, our Master gave them 
 wood, needles, iron, and matches, and they went off 
 very thankful and cheerful. 
 
 After their departure the [frozen up] boat was found 
 broken asunder . . . ; and the sails in patches [?] — 
 only think ! a native had fallen in with it, and being 
 unable to make out what this thing was amidst the 
 ice [?] he had broken it into pieces. Our Com- 
 mander, Kaine, grew angry, as he knew not who had 
 done it. Later on, a native arrived on foot, named 
 Majok. When I returned from hare-hunting I saw 
 him shut up in the ship. The Master ordered me to 
 examine him as to who had spoiled the boat. He 
 said : " I don't know, I have not done it." The 
 Master said he would shoot him if he did not confess. 
 On hearing this I took fright ; at once pitying him, 
 and afraid to look at him, I uttered : " He says 
 he will shoot thee if thou dost not tell." He re- 
 plied : " I have not done it, I don't know it." 
 
26 VOVAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 Finally, unable to overcome him, they grew silent. 
 Our Commander said to me, that he intended to shoot 
 him. I answered: "What a pity!" We went to 
 sleep, while he was kept prisoner. In the beginning 
 of the night I heard a noise. I went out and saw 
 him running off speedily. I wonder how he managed 
 to get out, the hatch-way being very high. After his 
 departure no natives made their appearance more, I 
 think they were frightened. 
 
 Towards spring I began hunting Utoks [seals 
 resting upon the ice], and usually got some, but I do 
 not know how many, as I have not counted them. 
 I also got four reindeer and several foxes. When 
 they started on their first sledge journey, the sledge 
 was dragged by men, and stayed away for many days. 
 I afterwards set out to join them ; I travelled by dog- 
 sledge, and did not know the road, but had a map of 
 the country. While still I went on, I saw a great 
 bear coming straight up against me. I could not 
 master my dogs any longer and was obliged to cling 
 to the sledge lest I should fall off. But the bear took 
 to flight, and I pursued and came up to him before I 
 could loosen the dogs from the sledge. He was just 
 going to reach an iceberg on the edge of an open 
 water into which he dropped, whereupon my dogs 
 stopped and some of them got free. I fired and hit 
 his muzzle, but, as he crept upon the iceberg, I missed 
 him. 
 
 I again gathered my dogs, and travelling farther I 
 saw another bear, but I prevented my dogs from per- 
 ceiving him ; again I saw another blackish one, the 
 natives yonder call them " A ;" hunting them is very 
 dangerous. I travelled and stopped at a large pro- 
 montory, the distance from the ship being ioo English 
 miles. Here I slept, and in the morning I started, 
 travelled the whole day; in the evening I lay down to 
 sleep upon the ice. The next morning I set out, and 
 finally towards noon I met with the men I sought for. 
 
SLEDGING TO THE NORTH WITH MORTON. 2f 
 
 When I came to them they were upon an island and 
 had got a bear. They were busy cooking, and 
 regaled me with bear's meat. 
 
 Here I slept, and the next morning the others 
 started in order to return, but I got a companion and 
 continued northward. This companion was named 
 Mister Morten. We passed a great glacier, proceeded 
 the whole day, and did not reach land before next 
 morning. Again we went on, and fell in with a large 
 open water. We followed the shore-ice [ice-foot], 
 but when this ceased we were obliged to stop. The 
 next day we took a walk along the beach, carrying the 
 dogs along with us, and saw a big bear running across 
 a plain towards the hills. We called the dogs, and 
 when they arrived I showed them the bear by running 
 towards him, whereupon they stopped him. I then 
 ran to them, but waited for my companion, in order 
 to get a rest for my gun, whereupon I fired, and 
 shortly after the bear tumbled over, quite dead. But 
 the cub was killed by merely pelting it with stones. 
 
 We carried off the flesh of the cub, but only the 
 skin of its mother. When we reached the shore we 
 left our burdens and continued our trip to the north. 
 Again we discovered a bear, but he escaped by 
 plunging into the sea. Not far from a steep cliff I 
 rested, waiting for my fellow ; on his arrival we turned 
 back and came to our stores. We had them dragged 
 by the dogs, reached our tent, and being very fatigued 
 got a good sleep. The next afternoon we ascended 
 the hill to build up a beacon, showing the point we 
 had reached, and we marked the rock. 
 
 The following morning we set out to return to the 
 ship, and travelled, I do not know how many days, 
 the surface of the ice becoming covered with much 
 water. At last we reached the ship, open water being 
 still four miles off, and remaining so the whole 
 summer, as the ice did not break up. I used to catch 
 hares, the country abounding with them. We also 
 
28 VOYAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 discovered bones of musk-oxen, and their crooked 
 horns, but no living one. 
 
 In autumn, when the new ice was forming, some of 
 our party set out for Upernivik [the nearest Danish 
 settlement] in a boat. Naparsisortak joined them. 
 I should have liked to do the same, but our Com- 
 mander forbade me, saying they would be frozen up, 
 and be unable to reach Upernivik. To be sure, as it 
 had grown winter, Naparsisortak came back by sledge 
 with one companion. They had left the others not 
 so very badly off, but, beginning to run short of pro- 
 visions, the natives used to send them meat as gifts. 
 
 In this way they came back, the natives carrying 
 them to the ship by sledge. They looked very ema- 
 ciated and were dreadfully voracious, but the Master 
 bade them not to eat too greedily, fearing it might be 
 hurtful. The next day his people, of their own accord, 
 tried to cook meat in the native fashion, imitating 
 the native lamps in their room in the ship. During 
 this time I happened to go outside, and observed that 
 our ship was taking fire. I shouted at once to those 
 inside : " Our ship is on fire !" They then hurried 
 out, and, drawing salt water from a hole, succeeded 
 in quenching the flames. Our Master gave me many 
 thanks for my quickness. 
 
 When spring came round, we started for the north 
 on foot, dragging our sledge. After several days' 
 travelling we put up our tent upon the ice. Having 
 discovered many of their footprints I went out in 
 search of bears. I fell in with a big one, who stood 
 upright, but on my approach he squatted on the 
 ground. While still drawing nearer I came to a large 
 iceberg and heard a sniffing sound. I looked up- 
 ward and discovered close above me another big 
 one, who just emerged and disappeared. While I 
 proceeded towards the first, which still was a little 
 beyond rifle-shot, all of a sudden he took to galloping 
 towards me. I fired at his head, but without hitting 
 
HUNTING ICE-BEARS. 20. 
 
 it properly. I was seized with fear when I had fired, 
 and he tottered ; but, before I had loaded my gun 
 again, he went off. stooping. I followed to finish 
 him, but fired without hitting and lost my game. 
 
 As I was fatigued I rested on the top of an iceberg, 
 but before I could manage to load my rifle I perceived 
 something sniffing. Looking downward I saw another 
 bear beneath me. I fired and he took to his heels, 
 following the track of his companion. When I had 
 rested I turned back to our tent and found all my 
 companions asleep. In the morning we set out [for 
 the bears, thinking that?] they were in a dying 
 state. We discovered a large bear, but, although the 
 ice was quite level, he disappeared .... we heard 
 their yelling ....[?] as my rifle did not go off, I 
 fired at him with my fowling' piece, but he scampered 
 off, and then we saw no bears more. 
 
 In this place I only write down a little of what I 
 ought to relate ; so many years having elapsed I have 
 forgotten so much. In winter, when daylight had 
 commenced, they tried to go to the west side on foot, 
 dragging their sledge, but, without reaching the shore, 
 they turned back. I believe there were three Tuluks 
 frostbitten. Naparsisortak and the Kavdlunak, car- 
 penter, left their companions [and came back ?]. We 
 then directly started, taking with us the Kavdlunak, 
 although he had just arrived and was perfectly ex- 
 hausted. When we had eaten, he lay down upon the 
 sledge, and we started dragging him, and having with 
 us our Commander, Kain. We travelled the whole 
 night, and finally reached them, Here we slept in 
 the tent, feeling pretty cold, and when we awoke we 
 returned, placing them upon the sledge. On the road 
 we halted, almost unable to pull the sledge on account 
 of the heavy load, four frostbitten men. But, pro- 
 ceeding on, we came to the vessel. A few days after 
 our cook died from severe frostbites, also one of the 
 sailors died. One of our officers, whose feet had 
 
3<D VOYAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 been attacked by the frost, recovered ; also the other 
 ■officers recovered. 
 
 When spring set in the Master and I used to make 
 excursions ; he was very clever in not despising native 
 food. Once, in the beginning of autumn, when we 
 travelled by sledge over the new ice, we fell through. 
 We carried my kayak with us, and the dogs having 
 scented the footprints of a bear, we were unable to 
 keep them back. On setting out upon the new ice 
 the dogs fell through, and so did our Master, close by 
 the sledge, only his head appearing above the water. 
 I immediately stretched out my arm to give him help, 
 but he forbade it lest I should also fall in. I rested upon 
 the kayak, which was placed upon the sledge that had 
 ■dropped into the water. My companion swam to the 
 dogs and climbed up the ice by taking hold of the 
 ■dogs. I succeeded in crawling from the sledge upon 
 the ice. As we were unable to manage the sledge, 
 we merely cut the thongs by which the dogs were tied, 
 ■and took to running towards the ship. I feared my 
 companion would have been frozen to death, but we 
 succeeded in reaching the brig safely, by a forced run, 
 I think, of about four miles. 
 
 One day also I started for a reindeer hunt. I re- 
 turned to the ship after having stayed away for several 
 days without having seen a living thing, excepting a 
 hare. We also tried a trip across the sea to the west 
 coast, but did not reach the large house [ ?], which 
 was our goal, the heavy ice making it difficult of 
 access. Also once I made an excursion with another 
 to visit the natives, and, by the way, in kindling a fire 
 to boil some water I chipped a stock and happened to 
 wound my right hand, nearly cutting off my thumb. 
 However, we proceeded in search of the houses, 
 though ignorant of their site, and luckily we fell in 
 with a sledge track, which led us to two houses. On 
 our arrival we were received with kindness. When I 
 held out my hand they pitied me, and bade us directly 
 
CALLING ON THE NATIVES. 31 
 
 go inside ; they would take care of the sledge and 
 dogs, they said. 
 
 When we entered we found it very hot. I examined 
 the house and found it wholly constructed of stones, 
 even the very ceiling. Looking upwards, the large 
 slabs seemed ready to fall down the next moment. 
 We were instantly invited to eat and regaled with 
 walrus-meat. They also ordered in some rotches 
 [small auks], and when these were brought we found 
 them quite fresh — only think ! Now daylight had 
 begun, and yet they had preserved during the whole 
 winter the provisions gathered in autumn. To be 
 sure those natives had an abundance of game, wal- 
 ruses, rotches, hares, and foxes. We even tasted 
 white whale skin. These courteous people said, that 
 the next day they intended to go walrus hunting, and 
 would like to take my companion, the Tuluk, along 
 with them. When I asked him, he complied, but I 
 remained, as my hand ached dreadfully, being cut 
 between the fore-finger and the thumb, so as almost 
 to sever the latter. They returned with one walrus, 
 my companion having got one of its big paws for his 
 share. 
 
 We slept here two nights, and returned in one day 
 to the vessel, my companion taking charge of the 
 driver. On approaching the vessel, our Commander, 
 who had observed that I did not drive the sledge, 
 came towards us, and when, soon after, we had come 
 on board, he said that he would cure me fairly, and 
 added, that if I obeyed him the wound would soon 
 be healed. He began curing me by cutting away a 
 part of the inner flesh. To be sure it ached dread- 
 fully when he took out the bad flesh, but it was soon 
 healed. 
 
 After I had recovered, the Master and I repeated 
 the visit, but on our way home he fell sick. After- 
 wards I once again called on the natives in order to 
 take part in a walrus-hunt. I got one walrus. Even- 
 
32 VOYAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 tually my companions began to think of abandoning 
 their vessel and repairing to Upernivik. I did not 
 believe they would be able to reach it. At the same 
 time I happened to visit the natives in order to get 
 hares. The day- after I had come to them I set out 
 for the chase in a gale from the north. A heavy 
 squall suddenly carried me off, hurting me against the 
 hard frozen snow. My native friends led me by the 
 hands to the sledge, and carried me back to their 
 houses, where I recovered during a stay of several 
 days. As those men behaved so kindly towards me, 
 I began to think of remaining with them. Spring 
 came at last. When they were going, to abandon the 
 ship, I proposed to our Commander to visit the 
 natives in a boat, and, as he complied, I went off to 
 them, and intended to come back. But they began 
 persuading me to remain. My companions would 
 never reach Upernivik, they said, and they would 
 take me along with them when they removed. 
 
 A pity it was that our Master behaved with haughti- 
 ness towards his crew. Also, once he treated me in 
 a similar way. The occasion was as follows : — I had 
 cut the head off a reindeer-skin of my own catch, 
 intending it for a sledge-seat. I went to the Kavd- 
 lunak [Dane], who was just taking a walk, and said 
 to him : " The Master intends to shoot me for having 
 cut the head from a reindeer-skin ; that is the only 
 reason." The Kavdlunak replied : "Don't be afraid, 
 he will never shoot thee, I am going to say to him : 
 we have another king." While he repaired to the 
 ship, I stayed upon the ice, expecting I should be 
 fired at, but perceived nothing at all. This Kavd- 
 lunak, on coming out again, said: "There is no 
 reason for thee to be afraid, only remain with us, I 
 will be thy protector." 
 
 From this moment I thought more and more of 
 leaving them when they started for Upernivik. 
 Finally I said to him [Kane] that I should like to 
 
LEAVING THE EXPEDITION. 33 
 
 visit the natives, and when he complied I departed. 
 It was my intention to return, but I began to envy 
 the natives with whom I stayed, who supplied them- 
 selves with all their wants and lived happily. At 
 length I wholly attached myself to them, and followed 
 them when they removed to the south. I got the 
 man of highest standing among them as my foster- 
 father, and when I had dwelled several winters with 
 them, I began to think of taking a wife, although an 
 unchristened one. First, I went a-wooing to a girl 
 of good morals, but I gave her up, as her father said : 
 " Take my sister." The latter was a widow and ill- 
 reputed. Afterwards I got a sweetheart whom I 
 resolved never to part with, but to keep as my wife 
 in the country of the Christians. Since then she has 
 been baptized and partaken of the Lord's Supper. 
 But I was greatly delighted at taking along with me 
 one of the unchristened, when I returned to a Kavd- 
 lunak settlement. 
 
 A Talk about the Unchristened Natives in the North. 
 
 In the days of yore their ancestors used to visit 
 Upernivik, for which reason they still speak of 
 " Southlanders." Those northern people had for 
 their merchandise walrus-teeth, for which they got 
 wood, whereas the Southlanders had wood to barter 
 with. Their ancestors also possessed kayaks. One 
 man, named KassuK, when undertaking a journey 
 southwards was told not to visit the Southlanders, 
 because they used to kill their guests when they were 
 going to depart. But he was an Angakok [wiseman, 
 magician], and went off with his wife and children. 
 He came to people -who received him very kindly. 
 But when invited to another house, the inmates ac- 
 costed him as follows : — "Our neighbours used to kill 
 their guests when they are going away, thou wilt not 
 escape them." When they had spoken so, he again 
 
 D 
 
34 VOYAGE WITH DR. KANE. 
 
 entered to his hosts, whom he found all asleep, ex- 
 cept one young fellow who had to keep watch. This 
 wretch he bewitched, making him fall asleep too, 
 whereupon he went out and cut asunder the lashings 
 of the other sledges and harnessed his .dogs. _ Then 
 he entered and asked his wife to follow Trim directly ; 
 he was going to put to the dogs, he said. So they 
 set out over the ice before anybody had come out ; but, 
 when they gained some distance from the shore, a 
 crowd of people made their appearance. They were 
 seen collecting their dogs, but on starting their sledges 
 broke down. Only one sledge continued to draw 
 nearer, accompanied by a dog of a frightful look. But, 
 when this dog had come abreast of them, he shot at 
 him with his bow and, hitting his side, killed him at 
 once. Now, first, his dogs took to run speedily, and 
 left the pursuer behind. In this way the traveller 
 with his wife escaped, and from that time no other 
 journey has been undertaken to the south. 
 
 It is a great pity that people there in the north have 
 no idea of a Creator. Only by me were they informed 
 about the Maker of heaven and earth and everything 
 else, of all animals, and even of ourselves. Also, 
 about His only begotten Son, who came in the flesh 
 for the sake of sinful men, for the purpose of saving 
 them, teaching' them faith, and performing wonderful 
 deeds amongst them, and afterwards was killed on a 
 wooden cross, and arose from the dead on the third 
 day, and will come down again to judge the living 
 and the dead. On hearing this the Northlanders 
 were rather frightened as to the destruction of the 
 world in their life as well as in their death [?] 
 
 How the Men yonder in the North subsist. 
 
 They pursue the white whales along the edge of the 
 ice, using five hunting bladders in connection with 
 one line, but on the big ice only one bladder. They 
 
REMAINING WITH THE NATIVES. 35 
 
 get the seals which lie near their breathing holes upon 
 the ice, by creeping up to them and harpooning them. 
 They pursue the walrus by the aid of two hunting 
 lines, both ends of which are furnished with a har- 
 poon, and their spears are headed with a Tok [chisel]. 
 As soon as the line becomes tightened [pulled by the 
 stricken animal], they thrust this into the ice to hold. 
 
 They also catch seals by having many breathing 
 holes at once occupied by men. One man then 
 generally catches a great number, while the others 
 only get a few, as the seals, when at the point of 
 choking,' have recourse to a few holes without leaving 
 them. 
 
 Bears they kill by spearing them, after having 
 brought them to bay by the dogs. They capture 
 foxes in traps of four different descriptions. For 
 hares they use nets made of sealskin thongs. For 
 birds they also use an implement like a catcher. 
 
 Hunting seals at the breathing holes, during day, 
 they call Marpok; during the night, Nirparpok. I 
 also remember the following words of their language : 
 sirlla pirnerkariarnarkark irnurk pirniarkark irgijarnar- 
 kark pirnirkark arllirnarkark narparpurk karparpurk 
 pirniarllune arllarpurk sarnivarpurk irmirnirk narnurni- 
 jarpuk kirmursirgarpuk tirmirsarnut karllurpurk. Some 
 of their words I have forgotten, as I left them after a 
 lew years' stay. 
 
36 
 
 II. 
 
 MY SECOND NORTHERN JOURNEY. 
 
 [Under Command of Hayes. \ 
 
 Once during my stay at Kip John [Cape York?]: 
 in the beginning of autumn, we got sight of a ship. 
 When drawing nearer they came close in from off us, 
 lowered a boat and pulled towards us. When close • 
 by I recognised two gentlemen in the stem, the doctor 
 and the astronomer, both of whom I knew were my 
 friends. Before reaching the shore they shouted, 
 calling me by name. I said : " It is I," on hearing 
 which they were greatly pleased ; I, too, was very glad 
 to see these gentlemen, who liked me. They asked 
 me : "Ju Hans Hendrik ?" I answered : " Yes, I 
 am it." They were also accompanied by three natives 
 [of Greenland, Eskimos]. When they landed they 
 said, that they wanted me alone to go with their vessel. 
 I answered that I wished to take my wife along with 
 me. They said : " Better let her stay behind, next 
 winter thou canst go to fetch her." I replied : " I 
 don't like to leave her, I pity her and her baby." 
 They added : " Well, then, bring her." I said, like- 
 wise : " I will carry my tent with me." I then left the 
 other tent to the parents of my wife. 
 
SETTING OUT AGAIN FOR THE NORTH. 37 
 
 We set out for the north, and while we sailed the 
 "wind freshened strongly, my dear wife soon fell sick, 
 and so did I. After a little while we stopped to 
 land. We went out after hares, because my 
 wife was unable to live upon merely Kavdlunak food. 
 I got two hares, the others got nothing. On coming 
 on board I gave one of them to my wife, and earned 
 many thanks from her. We stayed here for several 
 days, and when we left we touched at the northernmost 
 wintering station in an island called Pikiulek, but 
 only on account of the heavy ice we met with. As 
 the ice soon after spread, we went on, but were blocked 
 again, and returned to a station called Eta. Here we 
 got sight of reindeer on the hills, and we landed 
 towards evening, 'carrying our guns. I got no rein- 
 deer on account of my gun being a breech-loader, 
 which I did not know how to handle, but one of the 
 Kavdlunaks got one deer. As it became dark very 
 soon, we returned to the ship, and went to fetch the 
 reindeer the next day. 
 
 I felt very happy that now I had got something to 
 hunt for. When I started in the morning I used to 
 return at noon, sometimes with two, sometimes with 
 four deer ; in the afternoon I pursued the same sport. 
 There were also a great many hares. In the begin- 
 ning of winter, when the sea was frozen over, I used 
 to go hunting alone. To be sure, I had three natives 
 •as travelling helps ; but two of them were engaged 
 with various labours on board the ship, and the third 
 with some carpenter's work. 
 
 In the beginning of winter one of these natives 
 turned a Kivigtok [fled from human society, to live 
 alone up the country]. We were unable to make out 
 what might have induced him to do so. The only 
 thing we remembered he had uttered was— "What 
 
 does J say when he whispers in passing by me ? " 
 
 When he asked me this, I answered — " I don't know 
 at all." Also of the others he inquired in the same 
 
38 VOYAGE WITH DR. HAYES. 
 
 way, but we were quite ignorant of what he meant. 
 Once, when the sea was frozen, he went outside 
 towards tea-time, as we supposed, without any par- 
 ticular purpose. But fancy ! all of a sudden he had 
 run away. After tea, on going out, I said to my wife — 
 " Hast thou not seen Umarsuak ? " She answered — 
 " He went out after having handled his bag. I 
 thought he was going to take his tea, but he said* 
 'That 'is the only awkward thing, to understand neither 
 Danish nor English.'" As soon as he was missed, 
 some of the crew lighted torches and set off in search 
 of him. At last I found his foot prints going to the 
 hills. I followed them and shouted to him, but got 
 no answer. When I had reached the top of the hills, 
 also there he had still run farther. But, as I grew 
 exhausted, and his track disappeared in the darkness, 
 I gave him up wholly and returned to the ship, where 
 the rest had now arrived. Although we still kept up 
 a faint hope of his return, he was quite lost, and his 
 memory left a deep impression upon me, he being the 
 only friend whom I loved like my brother. 
 
 In winter, just before Christmas, the astronomer 
 and I undertook a journey by sledge to look for 
 natives. We crossed [passed by?] the great glacier 
 and travelled the whole day [of course only twilight, 
 there being continual night] without meeting with any 
 people. A strong wind sprang up from the north and 
 caused a thick drifting of snow, while we made our 
 snow-hut and went to sleep. On wakening the next 
 day it still blew a gale and the snow drifting dread- 
 fully, for which reason we resolved to return. While 
 we proceeded homewards the ice began breaking up, 
 so we were forced to go ashore and continue our drive- 
 over the beach-ice [ice-foot]. We arrived at a small 
 firth, and crossed it, but, on trying to proceed by land 
 on the other side, it proved impassable, and we were 
 obliged to return to the ice again. On descending 
 here my companion fell through the ice, which was. 
 
DR. SONNTAG FROZEN TO DEATH. 39 
 
 nothing but a thick sheet of snow and water. I 
 stooped, but was unable to seize him, it being very 
 low tide. As a last resort I remembered a strap 
 hanging on the sledge-poles, this I threw to him, and 
 when he had tied it around his body, 1 pulled, but 
 found it very difficult. At length I succeeded in 
 drawing him up, but he was at the point of freezing 
 to death, and now in the storm and drifting snow he 
 took off his clothes and slipped into the sleeping-bag, 
 whereupon I placed him upon the sledge and repaired 
 to our last resting place. 
 
 Our road being very rough, I cried from despair 
 for want of help ; but I reached the snow-hut and 
 brought him inside. I was, however, unable to kindle 
 a fire, and was myself overpowered with cold. My 
 companion grew still worse, although placed in the 
 bearskin bag, but with nothing else than riis shirt. 
 By and by his breathing grew scarcer, and I, too, 
 began to feel extremely cold, on account of now 
 standing still after having perspired with exertion. 
 During the whole night my friend still breathed, but 
 he drew his breath at long intervals, and towards 
 morning only very rarely. When, finally, I was at 
 the point of freezing to death, I shut up the entrance 
 with snow, and as the breaking up of the ice had 
 rendered any near road to the ship impracticable, and 
 the gale continued violently, I set out for the south 
 in search of men, although I had a wide sea to cross. 
 My nine dogs pulled quickly, and, by catching hold 
 of the sledge-poles and running, I began to be 
 revived. I passed by a great number of walrus 
 breathing-holes. Before I could reach the opposite 
 shore my dogs stopped from exhaustion. I was 
 obliged to stay, and tried to sleep, but the cold kept 
 me awake. At length I let loose the dogs, and set 
 off on foot in search of a house I knew, thinking it 
 might be inhabited. But by the way I tumbled down, 
 and could only proceed by creeping. When I reached 
 
40 VOVAGE WITH DR. HAYES. 
 
 the house I found it empty ; I made an attempt to 
 sleep, and after a miserable slumber rose and fell 
 down again, but at last succeeded in getting a little 
 warmer by walking. 
 
 When I came to the sledge the hounds had almost 
 consumed my store of provisions. I went back to 
 the house, and then fell truly asleep. The next day I 
 set out for another house I knew, but, before I 
 reached it, my dogs again stopped from weariness. 
 Then I threw myself down in front of a high cliff, 
 awaiting my death. When here I lay prostrate, I 
 uttered, sighing — " They say that some one on high 
 watches over me, too ;" and >I added — " Have mercy 
 on me, and save me, if possible, though I am a great 
 sinner. My dear wife and child are in such a pitiful 
 state — may I first be able to bring them to the land 
 of the baptised ! " 
 
 I also pronounced the following prayer :— 
 
 " Jesu, lead me by the hand 
 While I am here below, 
 Forsake me not. 
 
 If Thou dost not abide with me, I shall fall, 
 But near to Thee I am safe. " 
 
 Thereafter I rose, and set off again on foot, after 
 having loosened the dogs. I came to the house, and 
 found it partly unroofed. However, by aid of the 
 blubber I carried with me, I boiled some water, and 
 slept. When I awakened I went to the sledge, put 
 to the dogs, and proceeded. I crossed an inlet also 
 on foot, because of the snow being too deep. I 
 , made for the station called Natsilivik, thinking there 
 might be people. On approaching it I fell in with 
 snow-bare ice, and sat down on the sledge again. I 
 came to Natsilivik, but found also this place unin- 
 habited, and thought that if the next station, Itivdlek, 
 was so too, I should die. I cleared out the house 
 .... my hounds ate [?].... I slept here, and 
 when I wakened I set off for Itivilek. On this road 
 
HANS BEING RESCUED. 41 
 
 the ice was tolerably free of snow ; but nevertheless, 
 when I tried to sit down on the sledge, the dogs were 
 not able to pull me along. I again took to walking, 
 and when I had passed what is called Sermiarsuk, 
 before I had discovered human footprints, the dogs 
 got scent of them, and began running quickly. 
 
 I then sat down again, the dogs quite altered by 
 following the footprints, and, how lucky ! I discovered 
 the light of a window. On coming nearer I fired my 
 gun in order to warn them. At the same time people 
 appeared, and it was to me as if I had reached my 
 home. These folks were very kind and hospitable. 
 When I entered the house and began to take off my 
 clothes, the fox-skin of my jacket was, as soft and 
 moist as if newly flayed. My outer bearskin-trowsers 
 were not so very wet. When I took off my hareskin- 
 gaiters, they stuck to my stockings from being frozen 
 together, and I could not get them off but by cutting 
 open the boots. Had I used sealskin-gaiters I think 
 I should have frozen to death. Here I stayed for 
 many days, being unable to return alone. At last I 
 took it into my head to fetch the parents of my wife 
 from the farthest off wintering station, although I was 
 
 ■ greatly concerned about my dear wife and child, who 
 lived solitary on board the vessel with no female com- 
 panion. Our little daughter was still a baby, and they 
 longed for me as their only support. 
 
 At last I travelled southward with two companions 
 to a place called Agpat. We crossed [passed by ?] a 
 great glacier, and, after having slept once,_ arrived at 
 Agpat, where I found my foster-brother, married to the 
 elder sister of my wife, and now I came to him he was 
 to me like a true brother. Here I remained for a 
 
 great part of the winter, as it was difficult to make my 
 
 return journey during the great darkness, finally, 
 when daylight re-appeared, and the weather was fine, 
 I sent off the husband of my wife's sister to convey 
 
 my parents-in-law from the southernmost station, and 
 
42 VOYAGE WITH DR. HAYES. 
 
 I left him my dogs for the journey. After remaining 
 away for many days he returned to my great pleasure, 
 as now I got companions for my passage to the ship 
 and felt very anxious. After a stay of three days we 
 set out for the north, accompanied by other sledges, 
 intended for a walrus-hunting station called Kejatar- 
 suak. It took several days to reach this place, where 
 we gave our dogs one day's rest. One sledge con- 
 tinued its course northward to the ship, so that when 
 we arrived there, after three days' journey, the first 
 sledge already had announced our coming. 
 
 But on board they would not believe in him who 
 brought the first message ; they thought he was telling 
 untruths, and that I was dead. When they heard the 
 news of my companion, the astronomer, having fallen 
 through the sea and been frozen to death, they con- 
 ceived suspicions, thinking our deaths might be owing 
 to some crime committed by the natives, although, 
 notwithstanding their being unbaptized, they abhor 
 manslaughter. On my arrival I found my dear wife 
 tolerably well ; but I could not be happy since I left 
 that friend of mine who had loved me so kindly, and 
 who also, some winters before, when we spent three 
 years together, had treated me with such goodness, 
 Our Commander, Ese [Hayes], was gladdened by my 
 arrival, as he had believed me to be lost. He en- 
 quired where I had left my friend. I replied : " On 
 leaving him I covered him wholly with snow, now I 
 will soon go to fetch his corpse." But he said : 
 " When the days grow longer thou mayst go for it, 
 better now first try to get some reindeer, we are long- 
 ing for reindeer meat." 
 
 I then remained for several days to await a brighter 
 season ; the first day I went out shooting I got a large 
 rein-buck. Afterwards I hunted every day, sometimes 
 bringing home two deer, sometimes three. At last, 
 when bright sunshine had begun, a sledge arrived 
 which was engaged to accompany me. We also got 
 
FETCHING THE CORPSE OF DR. SONNTAG. 43 
 
 the ship's mate for our companion. When we arrived 
 we dug among the snow, and brought forth the dead 
 man still enveloped in his bag. I feared the foxes 
 might have eaten the body, but even the bag was. 
 quite untouched. We deposited him on my sledge, 
 the mate followed with my comrade, and we came 
 back to the ship in the evening. They brought the 
 corpse into the Captain's cabin for him to thaw. The 
 next day, when I saw our Commander, he said : " I 
 thank thee for thy having taken care of him." 
 
 Now the bright season had set in, I gave all my 
 time to hunting reindeer and hares. I also tried 
 walrus-catching, and got a very large one, but being 
 quite alone I merely fastened it [to the edge of the 
 ice], after having killed it. The next day I returned 
 with the sailors, an officer and two natives, to haul it 
 up on the ice. But as it proved too heavy, we cut it 
 up in the water, severing the head and a part of the 
 flesh. What a size ! I had never seen one like that 
 during my sojourn there in the north. The natives as 
 well as myself were used to catch walruses, but we never 
 met with its match. When first I discovered it, it did not 
 stir, and when it had dived I proceeded to the water's 
 edge to watch it. At last I began to hear signs of its 
 rising again, and as it emerged I harpooned it with 
 the help of a very long line, furnished at each end 
 with a harpoon. As it dived after being hit, I 
 fastened the other end to the ice, and hauled in half 
 the line ; and when it emerged the next time I struck it 
 with the other harpoon, so as to make my line become 
 double, and then I killed it with the spear. When we 
 had cut off its head and some of the flesh we returned. 
 
 After this I again took to hunting the reindeer - r 
 only once more I went in search of walruses, and got a 
 small one, but then I chiefly followed reindeer-hunt- 
 ing, they being so plentiful. However, I happened 
 to get nine hares also, and of the reindeer I killed twc- 
 with my fowling-piece. 
 
44 VOYAGE WITH DR. HAYES. 
 
 In the beginning of spring a man arrived by sledge, 
 named Amalortok. He was accompanied by his son. 
 They came in search of medical assistance, both of 
 them suffering from a swollen throat, and at the same 
 time to visit their relative, my mother-in-law. After 
 a stay of several days they left us. On their arrival, 
 the same men had told us that diseases of the throat 
 and of the stomach were raging among the natives, of 
 whom several had died. After their departure my 
 mother-in-law also fell sick, got still worse and died. 
 This was a hard blow to me, as she had behaved 
 towards me like a tender mother. The amiability 
 •of these unbaptised people is to be wondered at ; they 
 are never false, but always loving towards each other. 
 
 While I was hunting reindeer in the beginning of 
 spring, I once got nine deer, although I remained 
 ■standing on the same spot. Later on, when the 
 sledge parties prepared to go, our Master ordered me 
 to remain, and collect reindeer for provisions. When 
 some natives had arrived — three men, with their 
 wives — the sledge party started, with Jensen, and the 
 Captain, Mister Karmek, and Kemart — I have for- 
 gotten how many they were. Three days after some 
 of them came back, having found it impossible to 
 proceed. Some time after we went to fetch the boat, 
 and brought it in one day. Later on I departed, 
 carrying along with me my tent, and followed by the 
 natives, whom the Master intended as my porters, to 
 carry to the ship the haunches and legs of all the 
 deer 1 happened to kill, whereas he asked us to eat 
 only the saddles. During several weeks I collected 
 reindeer ; I did not count their number. At spring- 
 time my father-in-law le r t us, in order to visit his 
 eldest daughter. A little before he started he was 
 unable to walk, on account of his leg paining him, 
 but as soon as he recovered he left with his son. 
 This parting was very sad to me, as I could not 
 expect to see him any more. All of us fell a- weeping. 
 
RETURNING FROM SMITH'S SOUND. 45 
 
 I had lived with him and his wife for several years, 
 and they were to me like parents. Had she not died, 
 both of them should have followed me to Upernivik. 
 
 We afterwards sailed, and touched at the island of 
 Pikiulek, where our cable was injured, and we lost 
 our anchor by a gale from the south. Our craft 
 scraped the ground, but soon after came afloat again. 
 I went ashore with some others, who got several rein- 
 deer ; I only got a young rein-doe, a very small one. 
 I also came to a place where the walruses use to 
 creep up on the ice, and saw many of them, but only 
 had at hand my gun. 1 shot four young ones of that 
 year's brood, but their mothers rolled them into the 
 sea. The next day I repaired to the same spot with 
 my large hunting-line, followed by the sailors, and 
 got four walruses. We brought them to the ship, 
 hauled them up on the shore-ice, flayed them, and set 
 to cooking at the same time. Here were also lots of 
 eider-ducks, and we got plenty of them. 
 
 When we left this place we touched at the West- 
 land, and, starting thence, steered for Upernivik. 
 When we had anchored at Upernivik, and I came on 
 deck the next day, the Master summoned me to' the 
 stern, and when I came to him, he thus accosted me : 
 " People say that thou hast caused Pele to run away, 
 him who turned Kivigtok during the winter?" I 
 answered : " I have not made him run away, who says 
 th#t I have done so ?" . . . . Thereupon the crew 
 collected around the Master. One of them, Carl 
 Emil Olsvig, passing by me, said : " Don't fear, I will 
 help thee and speak in thy favour." When they had 
 finished, Doctor Rudolph [the trade-agent, who had 
 come on board] said : " Farewell ! to-morrow thou 
 and thy wife come ashore and stay at Upernivik, I will 
 take care of thee." 
 
 The next day we landed, to our great delight, and 
 were lodged in the house of Julius. The Captain 
 came too and proposed to convey me to Fiskernses, 
 
46 VOYAGE WITH DR. HAYES. 
 
 but I answered that I wanted to remain at Upernivik, 
 and he consented. Our Master now appeared to be 
 quite changed, full of love towards me, and liking me 
 as he did in former years. He gave me a gun, which 
 I took, but another rifle, which likewise he offered, I 
 refused, as it did not shoot straight. He also added tea 
 and other provisions and pork, and a wage-sum of 72 
 dollars [Danish?]. Doctor Rudolph proposed that I 
 should settle down at Augpilagtok ; the trader of this 
 outpost would take me there ; no station was equal to 
 Augpilagtok, he said. I spent three winters there, 
 one at Upernivik, and one at Kingitok. At last I 
 removed to Kangersuatsiak, and was engaged by the 
 trade as a labourer. While living at Augpilagtok I 
 had work at Upernivik every summer. At Kingitok 
 I taught the children, the clergyman having sent me 
 there for this purpose. In spring I went to Uper- 
 nivik, when the merchant wanted me to work there. 
 Doctor Rudolph was so kind towards me and my 
 little wife that I could not refuse him. Finally, when 
 taken in regular Government employ, I settled down 
 at Kangersuatsiak. 
 
47 
 
 III. 
 
 MY THIRD JOURNEY TO THE NORTH. 
 
 ■?=S09=^5- 
 
 \_With the 'Polar is. \ 
 
 While I was at Kangersuatsiak, a post arrived from 
 Upernivik informing me that Americans had reached 
 there, and bringing two letters for me- — one from 
 the merchant, the other from Kekertarsuatsiak 
 [Fiskernses]. I found the letter from Upernivik to 
 contain in substance : — The American Arctic travellers 
 wanted to have me in their service ; a boat was 
 coming to fetch us, my wife and children being 
 invited to go with me. They had also taken on 
 board with them a native from the Westland [coast 
 opposite to Greenland], with his wife and foster- 
 daughter, and the American, Mister Morta, a friend 
 of mine, whom I knew from my first voyage, when 
 he was steward, and I also had him for my com- 
 panion on my sledge-run to the far north. When I 
 opened the other letter, it was from Kekertarsuatsiak, 
 written by my brother, and informed me : — Since 
 Simeon had perished in kayak they were alone, and 
 their condition very sad indeed, and last year another 
 person had perished in kayak ; but, thank God ! all 
 
48 VOYAGE WITH CAPTAIN HALL. 
 
 of us have a future haven, howsoever we fare by land 
 or by sea, and our days are numbered. When I 
 opened the third letter, I noticed it was not written 
 to me, it being written in Danish. I merely had a 
 look at the writing, and directly folded the paper 
 again. 
 
 While I was reading over my letters, I heard shouts 
 of " A boat !" and that it was white, and of a foreign 
 appearance. Already knowing the Americans were 
 coming, I went up the hill, and on the way met with 
 the Assistant Trader. When I had informed him 
 that the Americans were at hand to fetch me, he 
 said : " Thou wilt not be allowed to join them, as 
 thou art in debt." I answered that I was ignorant of 
 my debt, and added : " By mistake I have broken 
 the sealing-wax of the third letter ; I did not under- 
 stand it, as it was in Danish ; I will deliver it to 
 thee." When I had gone to fetch it, and given it to 
 him, he grew very angry, saying : " Why hast thou 
 torn off the seal ?" I answered : " In ignorance I did 
 so;" whereupon he ordered the Guardian to be 
 called. The Guardian asked : " What does he mean ? " 
 I answered : " As I did not know a letter addressed 
 to him, I broke it open, believing it was intended for 
 me." He communicated this to the Assistant, who 
 then grew silent. 
 
 The boat having landed, the Assistant Trader said : 
 "The merchant wants thee to join them." A little 
 while after the ship's Mate, Mister Tarsta, said: 
 " What pay dost thou want per month ?" I answered : 
 "Ten dollars [Danish?]. He: "It is too little, is it 
 not?" I said: "Twenty-five." He again: >" It is 
 too little." At last, as I did not demand any more, 
 he asked: "Will fifty be sufficient?" I replied: 
 "Yes, that will do." He added:] "Art thou willing 
 to perform sailor's work on board or not ?" I agreed 
 so to do, with the exception of going aloft. When I 
 had spoken thus, he was satisfied, and said that we 
 were to start the next day. 
 
FIRST MEETING WITH CAPTAIN HALL. 49 
 
 In the evening, Mister Tarsta remarked : " I will 
 sleep in your tent." When we lay down to sleep, 
 Mister Tarsta did the same, and the next morning 
 my wife, having boiled coffee and cooked meat, 
 regaled him with a cup of coffee, but with no meat, 
 thinking he did not like it, although this was quite a 
 mistake [?]. In the morning we departed. It was 
 very sad when our friends came down to the beach to 
 bid us farewell, as some of them were as dear to 
 me as kinsfolk. It was then beautiful weather, and 
 we sailed briskly along, with a fresh easterly breeze, I 
 taking care of the sheet. 
 
 When we approached Upernivik, and came aboard 
 the ship, my late companion, Mister Morta, rejoiced 
 at seeing me again. The Master of the ship, Ull 
 [Hall], was very kind and friendly, as were the natives 
 from the Westland, John and his wife. We stayed 
 one day, and, proceeding northward, touched at 
 Tasiusak, whence in three days we came to where 
 lived the natives. 
 
 The next day, when we made for their northern- 
 most settlement, Eta, but still pretty far from it, I 
 said to my comrade, the Westlander: " Yonder I lost 
 my companion." He answered me : " Don't say so ;" 
 whereupon I grew silent. When our Master had 
 gone away, I asked him*: " Why didst thou forbid my 
 speaking?" He answered: "The officers do not 
 like to hear it, as they believe thou caused his death." 
 I replied : " That never struck me when I spoke to 
 thee ; is it possible that any baptised man should be 
 able to think of such a thing ?" My comrade did 
 not utter a word more. 
 
 Proceeding, and passing the northernmost station, 
 Anoritouk, we steered for the Westland. On the way 
 my wife fell ill from stitch, and grew still worse. At 
 last John's wife said : " I think she ought to be 
 cupped [?]j I should like to try it. It is a very 
 
 E 
 
JO VOYAGE WITH THE 'POLARIS.' 
 
 dangerous case ; I have seen many such ; some got 
 worse, some improved." I agreed, and she went to 
 fetch her blood-letting instrument, and put it on her 
 back, saying : " Now she will grow very hot, and 
 when she feels difficulty in breathing, use this fan ;" 
 whereupon she sat down at her side. As she had 
 said, the heat came on, and she felt half-choked, but 
 fanning brought her breathing all right again. 
 
 In this state my wife became delirious, and said : 
 "Itakavsak will come over us"[?]. She now grefr 
 very talkative, and continued : " Now listen to some- 
 thing. I remember that last summer a Kivigtok 
 came up to me, while" thou [Hans] wast on the 
 journey to Upernivik with blubber. In the evening 
 I went to fetch water. When I came to the large 
 stone, a man approached, he who had disappeared 
 last year ; ye remember, he went out shooting, and 
 ■did not return. When he drew near he said: 
 ' I come to thee as thou art a stranger [belonging to 
 the far-off Northlanders ?]. Last year I ran away 
 because I was in love with Nepisak's daughter, but 
 they [her relatives] would not have it, when I was 
 joking with her. She also was rather fond of me, 
 and as they forbade me marrying her, I went away. 
 I was also tired of needlework, my sister and mother 
 being unwilling to sew my clothes ; for this reason I 
 fled from men. Last spring I met with my father in 
 -Satut, and also his brother, and last autumn I came 
 upon the dogs of the Assistant at Itivdlinguak. 
 When I was going to slip off, I practised it thus : I 
 drove to the coast opposite to us, and coming to a 
 ■small opening, I deposited my gun and my mittens 
 on the ice, and pushed my sledge, which was loaded 
 with two seals, into the water. Then I went ashore, 
 and observed my two younger brothers running up. 
 As soon as they came to the sledge they began 
 lamenting [believing I had perished], and turned 
 tackj but after a little while a swans of people 
 
HANS WIFE CLAIRVOYANT. t; r. 
 
 hastened up, and having reached the sledge, began 
 searching in the water, although I was standing upon 
 the hill and looking down upon them. When they 
 started to go home, and my brothers and relatives 
 ■cried out for me, I joined in their wailing. At the 
 same time I heard some of them say : " It sounds as 
 if somebody was crying up yonder." When I per- 
 ceived this I stopped my crying.' The Kivigtok, 
 •after having finished this, grew silent. I went off to 
 make it known ; but I don't know how it was, when I 
 met another person who fetched water, I had for- 
 jgotten what I had to say." 
 
 My wife continued her tale thus : " Also once 
 -afterwards, while Hans was gone to Upernivik, and I 
 slept with my children in the tent, a heavy shower 
 pouring down, I heard a voice outside of some one 
 wanting to come in. But among our dogs sitting oh 
 their haunches in the entrance there was one of 
 brownish colour [?], and this was the reason why he 
 could not enter.' [She added that] When she had 
 taken a book, and placed it in the inner part of the 
 tent, he finally went away [?]. 
 
 What here my wife related was certainly true. On 
 the day when that man disappeared, in the evening 
 there was made inquiry for him, and people said that 
 he had not returned. His two younger brothers had 
 found the sledge floating in the water, and his mittens 
 •and gun placed on the ice. But they searched in 
 vain for the owner. I believe also I can remember 
 that when we started to go home from that spot, we 
 heard a wailing; and when we came home, it was 
 mentioned also by others that they had heard a 
 sound as if somebody was crying on the hills. This 
 is the end of my report on my wife's vision. 
 
 While we went on far towards the north along the 
 Westland, we also arrived off the furthest point 
 reached by Mister Morta and me on our sledge- 
 journey. When my comrade questioned me about it, 
 
 £ 2 
 
52 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 I remarked: "There we got two bears." That 
 country was named Kip An Tusen. The great 
 Master of the ship, ,UH, during that time, was very- 
 praiseworthy ; he scarcely allowed himself any sleep. 
 We proceeded still farther towards the north, between 
 our country and the Westland, meeting with pack ice 
 of an amazing height. At length we were wholly 
 stopped ; the ice closed us up and drove us back, I 
 don't know how many miles. At last we began dis- 
 charging the cargo on the ice, fearing we should be 
 wrecked. But the next day we took it in again, as 
 the ice spread away. We made for our country [the 
 Greenland coast], and when Captain Ull first went 
 ashore in a boat, they shouted " Hurra /" at having 
 reached our wintering harbour. 
 
 Here we saw many wild geese upon the land, and 
 the next day I went ashore with one man more, each 
 getting four of them. There were lots of them, but 
 they were very shy. One day, when we took a walk 
 over the hills, we discovered footprints of musk-oxen 
 not quite recent. On coming on board we reported 
 this to our commander, who grew very glad to hear 
 there were oxen in this place. 
 
 On September the 8th four of us, namely, the. 
 Doctor, Mister Tarsta, John, and I, set off sledging 
 in search of oxen. We travelled the whole day, and 
 took a rest after a journey of 8 [English ?] miles, 
 without having seen any live thing. The next day, I, 
 with Mister Tarsta and John, went out on foot, 
 leaving the dogs ; only the Doctor remained, to look 
 for some fine stones. We searched the whole day, 
 but only discovered footmarks of oxen, not quite 
 fresh. On our return I said to the others : " I will 
 go this way," and parted from them. When I came 
 to the tent, the others had arrived, also without having 
 found anything. The next day we went in another 
 direction, walking across the eastern hills, behind 
 which we found an inlet covered with ice for a long 
 
THE FIRST MUSK-OX. 53 
 
 way, the road to it leading over an extensive plain. 
 We returned to our tent in the evening. Again off in 
 the morning in another direction. We soon returned. 
 While, towards evening, we were busy collecting stones 
 to secure the tent, my comrade came up, whispering: 
 "Look there up the hill; may that be a fox?" I 
 turned round to look, and saw a big beast, whose legs 
 were hardly visible on account of its hairy coat. To 
 people who have not seen such before, it looks rather 
 terrible. When it had stared at us for a while, it 
 ■drew nearer. The dogs began yelling, and tore 
 asunder their harness, but on coming up it attacked 
 them, raising a cloud of dust about itself. As we 
 could not get quite near, I fired at a distance, as did 
 my comrade, but still it continued to pursue the dogs. 
 We discharged our pieces I dont't know how many 
 times before it fell. We had it dragged to the tent 
 by the dogs, cut it up, and set to cooking. The flesh 
 was similar to that of reindeer ; the nape of the neck 
 was very big. Next day, back to the ship, and our 
 arrival gave the Master much pleasure. 
 
 Afterwards we used to go shooting. My comrade, 
 the Westlander, and I sometimes caught seals ; in 
 this way we roamed about together. In October our 
 Captain made up his mind to sledge, and we set off in 
 one overland. We found the snow very deep, and 
 stopped after 4 miles, made a snow-hut, and lay 
 down to sleep. When we awoke, the Master asked 
 me to return to the ship, and fetch one sledge more. 
 So I set off, and after having stayed a short while on 
 board, as they invited me to eat, I returned with two 
 sledges and more dogs. After our arrival we pro- 
 ceeded again, my comrade with the Commander, and 
 I with Mister Tarsta. We halted, and made a snow- 
 hut, continued two days more, came to the sea, and 
 took rest on the shore ice. Here the Master said : 
 " To-morrow ye may go shooting, while Mister Tarsta 
 and I push on afoot." 
 
54 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 We started for the open water. I shot a seal 
 which emerged through the new ice, and towards- 
 evening my comrade fired after another in the same 
 way, but missed. When it appeared again I hit it, 
 but the current drifted it to sea. Towards evening, 
 we returned, and later on our officers joined us. 
 They reported that they had found a large hole in the. 
 glacier [?].... and made steps in the ice with a 
 knife .... lest they should slip down [ ?] When 
 they heard of the seals I had lost, they were vexed, 
 as they had taken a great liking to seal-flesh while 
 staying for several years in the Westland. The 
 Captain said : " To-morrow we will return to the. 
 ship." 
 
 We went to sleep, but kept quiet next morning, on 
 account of a gale from the south. The day after we- 
 set off, reached our snow-hut, and slept there. After 
 having travelled one day more, we again reposedi 
 When we started thence, we at length got sight of 
 our craft. We stopped for a moment to take our 
 meal, agreeably excited by this view, whereupon all 
 of us, shouting, hastened on board. 
 
 After our arrival, in the beginning of the evening, 
 my comrade entered our room, saying : " Our Father 
 is sick." I asked : " Is he very ill ?" " Yes ; he is, 
 very sick." I rejoined : " But to-day he did not 
 appear ill." Next morning, on meeting my comrade, 
 I asked : " How is our Commander ?" He answered. 
 " J-ist the same." We went out shooting ; each ol 
 us killed a seal, but my comrade did not get hold of 
 his. For some days we roamed over the hills, but 
 without seeing anything, except at times some tracks, 
 of hares. We also tried shooting at the water's edge, 
 and sometimes saw seals, but found them too wild. 
 Several days later our Captain grew better. My wife- 
 and children stayed every day in their room, according 
 to his wish ; but on returning in the evening, I used, 
 to go visiting. The Master, who was now quickly 
 
DEATH OF CAPTAIN HALL. 55: 
 
 recovering, once said, that as now he felt well he 
 should like to £0 out the next day. But when we 
 had gone to sleep, we were wakened by my comrade, 
 who entered, saying : " Our parent is very sick." I 
 replied: "Why, he was lately quite well!" When, 
 thereafter, I went to see him, he was weak, and kept 
 feeling the left side of his chest. My comrade accosted 
 him, but got no answer. On seeing that he could not 
 live, we said to each other : " When he is no more, 
 how shall we fare, for he is our only protector?" 
 When again we had gone to sleep, after midnight, he 
 who kept watch knocked at the door, opened it, and 
 said : " The Master is dead." When he had spoken 
 thus, I said to my wife : " He says our Commander is 
 dead ; how will it go with us hereafter, as he was the 
 only one who took care of us ? What mournful news, 
 that he who loved us so kindly lives no longer !" 
 
 Later on, we put our Master into his grave. When 
 the days shortened, the ice broke up, and drifted us 
 with it, our ship dragging its anchor in a heavy gale. 
 My comrade and I both advised the Master who now 
 had the command to drop the second anchor. When 
 he had ordered the sailors to drop it, the vessel 
 stopped. But then again we drifted towards a large 
 iceberg [ ?] He ordered the sailors to ascend the 
 berg [?], and fasten a warp. As none of them was 
 willing, my comrade and I mounted the berg. It 
 blew dreadfully, and on stepping down we found our 
 faces frostbitten. The vessel was now fastened to 
 the berg. 
 
 This was the first danger we incurred after the 
 death of the Captain, who was so watchful and careful 
 of us. While he lived we caught seals, I don't know 
 how many, and geese, and I got one Ugsuk [a very 
 large seal] and one musk-ox. When we were frozen 
 up close to the iceberg, he collected the crew, and 
 exhorted them not to be anxious, as they had two 
 native providers, if we should be wrecked there. 
 
56 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 When the ice had formed, but before it had any 
 thickness, my comrade said to the Master [ ? ] that 
 the iceberg would capsize. He did not mind, saying 
 there was no fear. But when the ice grew thicker, 
 our craft began to incline at low water, and to right 
 itself at high water. At length she began to draw 
 water, and it looked as if the iceberg would break and 
 swallow her. 
 
 At the end of the dark season, when daylight began, 
 we went out shooting. We also saw some seals, but 
 they were too shy. Although at neap tides thin ice 
 was forming, we, nevertheless, had open water during 
 the whole of the winter, sometimes distant 3 miles 
 from us. When it became light, it was about as far 
 off. During the darkness the open water was close 
 to the ship ; when daylight appeared it withdrew. 
 
 When we had got out of the dark season, we used 
 to walk up the hills, but there was no trace of oxen. 
 We only got some hares, I have forgotten how many. 
 
 Once, when the sun had re-appeared, I heard that I 
 was to be punished in man-of-war fashion. The 
 sailors informed me : " To-morrow, at nine, thou 
 wilt be tied and brought down to the smithy. Mister 
 Tarsta will come to fetch thee after nine o'clock. 
 Take breakfast without fear ; if thou art afraid, thou 
 wilt be treated ill." When I heard this, I pitied my 
 wife and my little children. The next morning, when 
 we rose, towards breakfast time, my wife, our daughter, 
 and I fell a-weeping. Our little son asked : " Why 
 do ye cry ?" From pity we were unable to give an 
 answer. However, they brought us our breakfast, 
 and, though without appetite, we had just begun 
 eating, when we heard a-knocking at the door. It 
 was opened, and Mister Tarsta, with a smiling look, 
 made his appearance, and accosted us : " Godmorgen, 
 are ye eating?" — whereupon, still smiling, he petted 
 our children and left us, and a heavy stone was 
 removed from my heart. I also thanked God, who 
 
GOSSIPING WITH A COMRADE. 57 
 
 had shown mercy to a poor little creature. However, 
 since the Captain's death, Mister Morta, and Mister 
 Tarsta, and Mister Blaine, and the Clergyman, and 
 some of the sailors were pretty kind towards me. 
 
 When it was daylight, and my comrade and I went 
 out shooting, I said to him: "Why have they this 
 horrible custom ?" [corporal punishment]. My comrade 
 answered : " Thine and my custom is to be ashamed 
 of [the white men despise us?]. I cannot speak 
 about it." When he had said this, I was long silent ; 
 then I rejoined: "Although in some measure I have 
 an idea of that custom, I am nevertheless unable to 
 understand it quite [?] Twice [I have seen it ?], first 
 in Tartikene [with Doctor Kane ?], the second time in 
 Tart Eise " [with Doctor Hayes ?]. Whereupon he 
 put in : " Yes, on board the man-of-war ships they 
 are unable to abandon that custom. I should like to 
 revenge [?] a relative of mine, a Westlander, who was 
 treated in the same way. And likewise I saw a 
 Tuluk, a very handsome youth indeed [exposed to it?]. 
 But we poor natives must be very careful with regard 
 to ourselves." When he had ended, I added : " Now 
 first I begin to understand that detestable custom. 
 While I was young, I would not believe it ; I did not 
 think it was said in earnest, and, moreover, did not 
 understand English sufficiently. When I return, I 
 believe I will not go with the Americans more. But 
 should the English want to engage me, I will go with 
 them. People say they are better." In this way we 
 gossiped on what we had observed during our 
 journeys. 
 
 After the sun had returned, I got one seal by 
 Mauflofc-catcb. [watching the breathing-holes]. My 
 comrade got none. He and the Doctor and the 
 Clergyman made an excursion by sledge ; but three 
 days after they came back without the Doctor, to 
 repair the sledge, which had been damaged. They 
 also wanted me to join them with one sledge more. 
 
58 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 The morning after their arrival we set off, my comrade 
 intending to drive with the Doctor, whom we reached 
 in the evening, lodged in his snow-hut. When we 
 had slept, we started, advanced the whole day, and 
 stopped in the evening facing an open water. In the 
 morning my comrade and I went shooting from the 
 edge of the ice. I killed two seals, but only got hold 
 of one, the other being carried off by the current. 
 My comrade shot one, but lost it in the same way. 
 When we came back it became pretty hot in our snow- 
 hut. We set to cooking meat, and furnished our 
 camp amply with blubber ; it was in the native fashion, 
 with a long wick. Next day, walked to the south 
 over the shore-ice [ice-foot]. The Doctor said they 
 intended to go to the southern cape, and asked 
 when I thought we could be back again. I said : 
 "To-morrow;" but he objected: 'We want to be 
 back to-night." 
 
 We started, and wandered the whole day, and not 
 before midnight had we reached our goal. Here we 
 rested for awhile, started again, and then came back 
 quite exhausted. It was also a thirsty trip; not 
 beiore our return could we get anything to eat or 
 drink, and we had to lie on the snow. The Doctor 
 and the Clergyman began sleeping. I was nearly 
 doing the same, but, fearing the cold might be dan- 
 gerous, I wakened them after a short slumber. Oh, 
 how cheerful it was when we gained our sledges, and 
 could sit down upon them ! We met with John, who 
 had waited for us, and, when he had slept, had gone 
 to look for us and bring us refreshments. He said : 
 " I was very anxious about you ; I thought a bear 
 had devoured you, or ye had fallen into the sea ; my 
 fears were many. I think now ye are nearly starving ; 
 here I have brought bread and Panike [?], but no 
 cooking-pot." When we had rested and eaten, we 
 went on again ; where there was no shore-ice we 
 were obliged to carry the sledge. On the other 
 
RETURNING FROM A TIRESOME WALK. 59- 
 
 side [ ? ] we came to my comrade's dogs, and thence 
 to our snow-hut. 
 
 When we had slept here, the Doctor and John set 
 out in a sledge for the interior of the firth, while the 
 Clergyman and I remained. For some hours I went 
 shooting on the edge of the open water, but without 
 success, as no seals were to be seen. When I 
 came back, the Doctor and John were still missing. 
 It grew evening, and not before late did they return, 
 having killed a bear — a small female one. They 
 brought it entire upon the sledge, and then first it. 
 was cut up. 
 
 The following day we remained to let our dogs rest. 
 But then we started on our return. We travelled the 
 whole day, and a part of the night too, and arrived 
 on board the ship the next morning at eight o'clock. 
 
 While the sea in front of us was covered with ice, 
 we used to walk over it, and watched two breathing 
 holes, but could not get at the seals. At last we 
 began talking about going to look for musk-oxen. In 
 the beginning of May we set out by sledge, John and 
 I alone. We travelled the whole day, following the 
 valleys between the mountains, but without discover- 
 ing a living creature ; we only perceived some tracks 
 of hares. In the evening we stopped, and made a 
 snow-hut, and had a lamp after native fashion, with 
 blubber and a cooking pot. We had a supply of 
 dog's food and Pamikes [?], containing fruits and 
 sugar. Our eight dogs, as well as ourselves, were well 
 provided for. 
 
 Here we stayed two days. We roamed about and 
 searched in vain for oxen. On the third day we 
 descended from the hills, and removed to a firth 
 called Ingeverman Bay, on the border of which we 
 built our snow-hut on the shore-ice. Next day, off 
 sledging into the firth. When we came to an iceberg 
 we brought up ; and while my comrade examined the 
 land through a spyglass, I remained on the sledge. 
 
60 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 But when he exclaimed : " Ah ! just look in the glass, 
 I see a small musk-ox moving over the snow." I 
 went to look, and observed something like a big 
 stone moving. "We searched for more, and discovered 
 nine others, in the same direction. Hastened in 
 pursuit ; but they were very far off, on the top of the 
 hills. Over the ice we drove pretty quickly, our 
 hounds beginning to grow excited. When we reached 
 the land, my comrade took the lead, to hinder the 
 dogs from making any noise. It was a long time 
 before we came up to them. Then we loosened our 
 team. "When the beasts observed them they collected 
 in a circle, with their horns pointing outward. My 
 comrade said to me : " Their way is, that when they 
 show fight to the dogs they retire, but then suddenly 
 advance, and then again go back, sharpening their 
 horns by rubbing them against the ground." When 
 he had spoken thus, we fired, and' some of them fell. 
 But, lo ! a large bull drew back, and then suddenly 
 rushed forward in pursuit of the hounds. It was 
 awful to see the snow rising about him, like a cloud. 
 Again he retired, facing the dogs. 
 
 We continued shooting until we had finished them 
 all off, and had got nine oxen in one day. When we 
 began skinning them, my comrade said : " When 
 thou observest an oxen quite free from blood, fill it 
 up with snow ; we shall then get water for drinking, 
 we are much in need of water." As soon as I saw 
 one of them with no blood inside, I filled it with 
 snow, and after a little it had thawed, and we were 
 provided with drinking water. When we had carried 
 all our game down the hills, we went to our snow-hut, 
 and had a good meal of beef. The following morning 
 we fetched more of the flesh, but leaving a part of it. 
 Again we went for more, until we had collected the 
 whole in our snow-hut. Thereupon we took one 
 day's rest, and then we repaired to the ship, We 
 travelled the whole day, and arrived the next morning. 
 
SHOOTING MUSK-OXEN. 6 1 
 
 On board they had been very anxious, and thought 
 we were lost. Consequently, when, on approaching, 
 we shouted that we had got nine musk-oxen, they 
 were delighted. After three days' stay we Went off 
 in two sledges, I with Mister Tarsta, and my comrade 
 with Mister Maje. In one day we reached the snow- 
 hut, and discovered on our arrival one musk-ox more. 
 "We went to sleep, and next morning walked up the 
 hills, I with Mister Tarsta and John with Mister 
 Maje. We proceeded towards the spot where the 
 day before we had observed the beast. On ap- 
 proaching and spying after it, we got sight of one ox, 
 and, looking farther, I discovered eight more of the 
 same kind. I proceeded on foot towards the first, 
 telling my companion, whom I left behind, that when 
 I made a sign with my hand he might approach. 
 "When I came close to the beast I waved my hand, 
 whereupon he drove towards me in the sledge. As 
 he disappeared behind a hill, I grew impatient, and 
 went to look after him. I had left my gun upon the 
 sledge. When he came up I said : " I will fetch my 
 gun." When I had brought it and came to him, he 
 had already hit the game several times, but not before 
 I joiped him did we succeed in killing it. After 
 having taken out its entrails, we went in pursuit of the 
 other eight. 
 
 We found them browsing separately, but on seeing 
 the dogs they crowded together, forming a ring. We 
 began firing at them, and succeeded in killing them 
 all. While we skinned them my companion broke 
 silence : " Now I will go cook beef and boil coffee, 
 while thou continuest skinning. When I have finished 
 I will assist thee." When the meal was prepared, 
 and we had eaten our meat, we finished skinning and 
 cutting up, loaded our sledge, and returned before 
 our companions had arrived. After awhile they 
 appeared. When we had slept, we set off in both 
 sledges to fetch our store of flesh. We ended our 
 
*62 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 job, bringing it down altogether. Next morning we 
 returned to the ship. 
 
 Although we had our large supply of flesh to bring 
 home, my comrade and I remained on board for 
 several days to rest. Then we went off again, I, as 
 usual, with Mister Tarsta, and my comrade with 
 Mister Maje. When we had gone half-way we 
 stopped and put up our tent, and thence reached our 
 late encampment, with the stores, by the following day. 
 After a day's rest we started on a trip to the end of 
 this firth, to explore its interior. "We found the firth 
 headed by a glacier, and its interior also covered with 
 perpetual ice, on which rested an immense number 
 •of stones. We made a sketch of the interior, and 
 turned seawards again. On the road we raised our 
 tent on the ice, and at last reached our late encamp- 
 ment. Next morning we crossed to the opposite 
 shore of the firth, and ascended a hill, where Mister 
 Maje at noon observed the sun, and reported that we 
 were .... higher [latitude ?] than the ship. When 
 we started from this spot we travelled a long way, 
 turned back in the afternoon, and built a snow-hut in 1 
 the evening. Again advancing, we descended to the 
 ice, and fell in with the traces of two oxen. Following 
 these, we found a cow with her calf, and killed both. 
 At length we came back to our camping-place, and 
 thence to the ship. 
 
 After a stay of two days we went off again, I as 
 before with Mister Tarsta and my comrade with one of 
 the sailors. When we had stopped in the evening and 
 began cooking, my comrade went up the hills and 
 discovered two oxen. We hunted them on our 
 sledges and killed them. After one day's stay we 
 returned to the vessel. 
 
 Again, after several days, we got help to bring 
 home the flesh. On reaching our encampment we 
 obtained two oxen more. We returned on board, and, 
 later, we two alone went out in one sledge, but got no 
 
FAILURE OF AN EXCURSION TO THE NORTH. 63 
 
 more venison. Coming back we learned the sailors 
 had been more fortunate, they had carried a tent 
 with them, and brought in two oxen. After this our 
 excursions ceased as the land grew too moist. In 
 June, however, my comrade and I got some Utoks 
 [seals upon the ice]. 
 
 About this time there began to be a chance of 
 boats passing northwards, although the heavy pack 
 which incessantly came drifting from that quarter 
 rendered it very difficult. However, two boats and 
 provisions were transported over the ice a distance 
 of 3 miles. My comrade asked whether we were to 
 join the party, but the Master replied : " No, better 
 be near the vessel; we must keep you as our 
 purveyors." The skiffs then started, but during 
 the following night one of them returned. The 
 officer in charge, Mister Tarsta, reported that they 
 were wrecked. The ice had crushed the other boat, 
 he said. Some of the luggage was lost, but the 
 crew were all saved. Now they had come to get a 
 skinboat and provisions. When the ice opened they 
 departed, but in the beginning of July one of the 
 men arrived with the message that 25 miles off they 
 had been unable to proceed any farther. They were 
 closed up and cut off from the vessel. 
 
 Early in August we left the harbour with our ship, 
 and tried to reach them, but were stopped by ice. 
 We fired the ship's gun to warn them, but they could 
 not hear it, whereupon we turned back. In the 
 evening a heavy gale sprang up from the north. I 
 went to sleep early in the morning, but was wakened 
 at eight o'clock, and ordered to bring a letter to them 
 and recall them. First they pulled me ashore in a 
 place where I could not land, on account of the shore- 
 ice offering no footing. Then they brought me to an 
 ice-bare beach, but here I had to ascend a high rock ; 
 I was obliged to climb a precipice, which appeared 
 quite inaccessible. Imagine my joy when I had 
 
64 VOYAGE WITH THE ' POLARIS.' 
 
 reached the top ! I set forward, travelling the whole 
 day, and when at length I sighted the ice, and dis- 
 covered two men at the edge of the water, to be sure 
 I feit easy. I proceeded towards them, although 
 with difficulty, from the ice being inundated. When 
 I came to them, and inquired about the others, I was 
 informed they were half-a-mile off. There were 
 Mister Tarsta and the Doctor, and, as I had letters 
 to the Doctor, I repaired thither. When I had found 
 them, I said, that the other day we had started in the 
 ship, but had been obliged to turn back, and then 
 had tried to warn them by firing a gun, and that now 
 we were waiting for them to set out on our home 
 voyage. Mister Tarsta rejoined : " The ice has been 
 quite impassable." When I had slept there, I started 
 in the evening with the Doctor ; we went the whole 
 night, and reached the vessel the following day at 
 noon. 
 
 In August all the others likewise returned, while 
 the ship was still retarded by the ice. Every day I 
 went up the hills to watch the state of the ice, as the 
 Master had ordered me to give warning when it was 
 going to spread. On the nth of August, in the 
 night, my dear wife was delivered. What a happy 
 result ! After a little while she was restored, and, 
 both being well, I went up the hill to. watch the ice. 
 
 I found it had began to clear off. Speedily went 
 down and reported to the Master: "The ice has 
 spread ; we ought to be off to-day." On hearing this 
 he directly went ashore, and after a little while re- 
 turned, whereupon he made ready to start. It was 
 afternoon on the 12th of August when we set out. 
 Eut after two days we stuck in the pack, and were 
 brought down with it towards the south. While 
 thus we were blocked, my comrade and I caught seals 
 every day, and then began collecting a store of un- 
 skinned seals. At the same time while the ship 
 rested immovable, they put_up a tent on the ice, and 
 
A TERRIBLE NIGHT. 65 
 
 filled it with bread. When we were off Kap 
 Allikisat, a gale sprang up from the south. It was 
 a pitch dark night, when the ice. began moving north- 
 ward, and the floes were jammed and pushed over 
 each other. At last our ship began to crack terribly 
 from their pressure. I thought she would be crushed. 
 
 On perceiving this we brought our wives and 
 children down upon the ice, and hurried to fetch all 
 our little luggage, and remove the whole to a short 
 distance from the ship. Then the ice broke up close 
 to the vessel, and her cables broke ; but in the awful 
 darkness we could only just hear the voices on board, 
 and when the craft was going adrift we believed she 
 was on the point of sinking. Here we were left, ten 
 men, our wives and children, and the Tuluks, making 
 nineteen in all, and having two boats, no boat re- 
 maining with the ship. When the others drifted from 
 us we thought they had gone to the bottom, while we 
 ourselves were in the most miserable state of sadness 
 and tears. 
 
 But especially 1 pitied my poor little wife and 
 her children in the terrible snow-storm. I began 
 thinking : " Have I searched for [?] this myself, by 
 travelling to the north ? But no ! we have a merciful 
 Providence to watch over us." At length our children 
 fell asleep, while we covered them with ox-hides in 
 the frightful snow-drift. At dawn our Commander 
 Tarsta said he would make for the land with the men, 
 as soon as their meal was done. When they had 
 cooked and got their breakfasts they set off towards 
 an island called Pikiulek, but before they could reach 
 the shore they were stopped by new ice. 
 
 About this time we sighted the ship, which was 
 approaching us, to our great joy. They steamed 
 on, and I believed they would have observed us, but 
 suddenly they turned, a heavy squall from the north 
 coming on at the same time. 
 
 When our Tuluk companions were going to make 
 
 F 
 
66 DRIFT ON THE ICE-FLOE. 
 
 for the land, they asked us to follow them, but my 
 comrade and I preferred to stay behind, knowing that 
 they could not get to shore. The cook also kept us 
 company, saying that he found it pitiful to abandon 
 us. Those who had tried to land returned after a 
 while, not having succeeded. The north wind blew 
 furiously, and the heavy seas threw us towards the 
 Westland. Suddenly the ice on which we dwelled 
 parted, and we were separated from the tent which 
 contained our store of bread. When the ice touched 
 the Westland it stopped, and packed together all 
 around us. Here we made a snow hut. My comrade 
 went out sledging, and how lucky !— he caught sight of 
 the tent. Directly we started, dragging a boat to fetch 
 some bread. At the tent we filled the boat with 
 bread, and drew it over the ice to our camping place. 
 When we left our wives and children I was afraid a 
 bear would devour them, now I was consoled to see 
 them unhurt, and after our arrival we had a good 
 meal. Since we left the ship this was the first time 
 we ate sufficiently. 
 
 The following day we deliberated whether we 
 should remove to the floe where stood the tent, as it 
 was very large and might serve us for an island during 
 the winter. We resolved to proceed and first brought 
 thither one of the boats, loaded with bread and 
 luggage, whereupon we filled the other in the same 
 way. My wife and daughter loaded the sledge with 
 our little properties and pulled it, my wife carrying 
 the baby in her hood. Our son was seven years of 
 age, our youngest daughter four, and these poor things 
 walked over the rough ice, my wife and daughter 
 pulling the sledge, and I assisting those who dragged 
 the boat — a sad sight. When they were going to be 
 left behind, I told my wife I should return to her. 
 When we had brought the boat to our new camping- 
 place, I went back, followed by one of the sailors, 
 and, finding my little daughter Sophie Elisabeth very 
 
ARRANGING WINTER-QUARTERS. 67 
 
 tired, we placed her on the sledge, and more men 
 came to help us. When we had finished our removal, 
 we turned the boat over, I and my family going to 
 sleep under it, while the Tuluks were lodged in the 
 tent, and the Westlanders made a snow-hut for them- 
 selves. 
 
 The next day we built a snow-hut in the middle of 
 the ice-floe. Fancy! this was to be our settlement 
 for the whole winter. One day we rested ; then my 
 comrade and I went out sledging towards the land. 
 On approaching it we fell in with new ice ; I remained 
 to look for breathing-holes, while my comrade pro- 
 ceeded towards the shore. I found some holes, and 
 heard the sound of breathing; but as the ice was 
 covered with snow, I could not get at the seals [which 
 were scared by the noise]. My comrade had been 
 on shore, and told me he had seen footprints of hares 
 and foxes. 
 
 "When we returned, we made up our minds to 
 remove to the land the following day. We also drove 
 in another direction, but without discovering anything. 
 Next morning we tried to go shorewards, but our 
 island, the ice-floe, began moving. It drifted sea- 
 wards, consequently we turned back, and now we 
 continued to be carried off incessantly in a southern 
 direction throughout the winter. After some time we 
 caught sight of land, but by-and-by lost it again. 
 Every day my dear comrade, the Westlander John, 
 and I went out hunting. In this way once he suc- 
 ceeded in getting a seal. What a joy, when we had a 
 meal of flesh, and our lamps became supplied with 
 blubber ! Afterwards I again got a seal, a small one ; 
 I killed it at one shot. Wonderful indeed, we were 
 so blessed with seals for our support, and that we so 
 continued the whole winter. 
 
 Once, when we were out shooting, I fell through, 
 having both legs under water. My comrade asked : 
 " Art thou wet ? " I answered : " No, I did not gqt 
 
 f 2 
 
68 DRIFT ON THE ICE-FLOE. 
 
 wet." When we had tried shooting we returned, but 
 quite near to our encampment a strong northern gale 
 suddenly overtook us, and made both of us lose our 
 way. The snow drifted terribly. As I was tired with 
 walking, I stopped. Looking up towards the sky, I 
 perceived many stars. Thereupon I proceeded, but 
 came to a broad crack, and on going back, I fell in 
 with the open sea. Now I thought my last day was 
 come. I considered the miserable position of my 
 dear wife and children, on a piece of ice in mid- 
 ocean. Then I pronounced my prayer : — 
 
 " Jesu, lead me by the hand, 
 While I am here below ; 
 Forsake me not. 
 
 If Thou dost not abide with me, I shall fall ; 
 But near to Thee I am safe. 
 
 When I had finished these words I ascended a heap 
 of ice-blocks, and discovered a star rising a little 
 above the surface of the ice. But it was my comrade, 
 who had lighted a torch, and pointed it all round from 
 the highest part of the uneven ice. I went down 
 in the direction of what I saw ; but on my road I 
 again fell in with a fissure, turned, and went on, but 
 again discovered something like a light. I moved 
 forward, examining it, but was again stopped by the 
 break. While here, some people were heard approach- 
 ing, and when they came close they shouted : " Art 
 thou Hans ? " I answered : " Yes." Whereupon 
 they said : " We had nearly fired at thee, 
 believing it was a bear." I answered : " Never more 
 I had reason to be thankful to anybody than to you, 
 as I was quite unable to make out whither I had to 
 go." When we came home I found my wife and 
 children had been most sorrowful, but I thanked the 
 merciful Providence on high. 
 
 While we drifted in this way throughout the winter, 
 my comrade and I frequently got a seal. Our lamps 
 were never out for want of oil. When sometimes 
 
WONDERFUL SUPPLY OF FOOD. 69 
 
 our supply was almost consumed, one of us used to 
 catch. Just before Christmas, each of us took a seal. 
 How delightful, that our lamps were well supplied for 
 Christmas ! During Yule we finished all the pro- 
 visions we had, except the bread; but we were 
 consoled by knowing that daylight was near. 
 
 When the sun reappeared, we fell in with a great 
 many black guillemots. Of course we also availed 
 ourselves of them, as we were well off for guns — I 
 had four myself, namely, three rifles and one double- 
 barrelled fowling-piece. And we had plenty of shot. 
 These articles I and my comrade John had taken 
 care to provide ourselves with when we left the ship. 
 At first we only threw them down upon ice, then we 
 brought them some distance from the ship. We 
 could, therefore, afford to shoot guillemots. 
 
 Although the sun again shone, no land could be seen, 
 and it was truly appalling to think that our Tuluk com- 
 panions and our wives and children would probably 
 starve. However, we were taken care of by .Provi- 
 dence, and the whole winter were supplied with seals. 
 While still we lived on our island of ice, we fell in 
 with bladder-nose and saddle-back seals, and they 
 gave us a good supply of food. 
 
 As we advanced far south, we had a heavy swell, 
 and, in a pitch dark night, the floe, our refuge, plit in 
 two. At length the whole of it was broken up all 
 around our snow-huts. When we rose in the morn- 
 ing, and I. went outside, the sea had gone down, and 
 the ice upon which stood our house had dwindled 
 down to a little round piece. Wonderful ! There 
 must be an All-merciful Father. 
 
 Some days after, when we had gone to sleep, we 
 heard a gun fired. I went out and saw that a bear 
 had been hit and had fallen. My comrade exclaimed : 
 " We have got a big bear ; how cheerful, we shall now 
 have bear's -flesh !" 
 
 When we came still farther south the ice appeared 
 
JO I>RIFT ON THE ICE-FLOE. 
 
 more dispersed, and at last we made up our minds t©> 
 go in search of land, although none at all was in 
 sight. At the same time, we again met the heavy 
 swell. We started in the boat, which was heavily- 
 laden. For some days we pushed on pretty well- 
 When the seas came rolling they looked as if they 
 were going to swallow us up, for which reason, at in- 
 tervals, we landed on ice-floes. At length we made- 
 out land. 
 
 Again we rested upon a piece of ice. Daring 
 the night a heavy sea came on ; we slept with our 
 children in the boat, while the others used the tent. As 
 the sea still rose higher, it began washing over our place 
 of sojourn. They were obliged to remove the. tent, 
 placing it upon the top of an ice-hillock, whereupon 
 all of us had to keep hold of the boat. The children 
 were placed in it, the women assisted us. When the 
 sea began to move the boat, we all kept hold of the-' 
 gunwales ; the breakers looked as if they would 
 engulph us. We exerted ourselves to the utmost 
 each time when the sea began lifting us, whereas 
 when it retired we pushed the boat to remove it to- 
 windward, because there was a danger of our being 
 washed down into the sea to leeward. We did not 
 stop until we had brought the skiff close to the edge 
 of the ice. But now the sea reached the tent which 
 was placed on the hillock. To be sure it was awful t 
 whenever the waves washed over us we were in water 
 up to the waist, while at the same time we clung to 
 the gun-wale, and all the while one heard nothing but 
 exclamations : " Now use all your strength." 
 
 Towards morning the sea had abated, and when it 
 grew light we discovered that some smaller floes were 
 less exposed to the swell. I spoke with my comrade 
 about removing to one of these, and our Commander 
 Tarsta agreed. We put the boat into the water, 
 loaded it, and went to a smaller ice-floe, which we 
 found much better as it was not washed over. 
 
A DREADFUL MOMENT. 7 c 
 
 As the sea grew calmer we pushed on. Seals were 
 plentiful ; we had no want of meat ; and we used to 
 take our rest on the floes. One night it happened 
 that the ice which served us for our camping place 
 parted between the boat on which I slept and the 
 tent. I jumped out to the other side, while that 
 piece on which the boat was placed moved off quickly 
 with Mister Maje who was seated in the boat, and we 
 were separated from it by the water. Our Master 
 asked the sailors to make a boat [raft] out of a piece 
 of ice, and try to reach it, but they refused. We 
 never had felt so distressed as at this moment, when 
 we had lost our boat. At last I said to my comrade: 
 " However, we must try to get at it." Each of us 
 then formed an Umiardluk [literally, a bad boat] out 
 of apiece of ice, and in this way we passed to the other 
 fragment. As now we were three men, we could 
 manage to put the boat into the water. But when 
 on doing so, it sank forward, Mister Maje fell into the 
 sea. My comrade jumped into the boat at the same 
 moment, and pulled him up ; I, being unable to 
 follow, remained standing on the ice. When they 
 had taken me along with them, we proceeded towards 
 the others ; but meanwhile the ice had screwed together, 
 and we stood still. We three men alone then hauled 
 up the boat [?]. At this time night fell, and our com- 
 panion who had been in the sea, and now was lying 
 in the boat, was like to freeze to death. I said to my 
 comrade that if he remained so he would really die ; 
 if he could walk about, it would be better. I had 
 witnessed such a case before. When I had spoken 
 thus, we asked him to rise, saying, that if he remained, 
 he would perish. The first time he rose, he tumbled 
 down ; but, after having walked for a long time, he 
 recovered. At day-break we discovered our friends 
 close by, and the ice joined together. When first 
 they had examined the road, they came to us and 
 assisted us to drag the boat over to them. 
 
72 DRIFT ON THE ICE-FLOE. 
 
 When we had started from this place, we were soon 
 stopped by the pack, and no live thing was to be seen. 
 We began to be in need of provisions. We had na 
 seal-flesh left, and the next day our small stock ol 
 bread was to be shared out. In the night I had just 
 fallen asleep, as I was to have my turn of the watch, 
 when I was wakened by hearing people speaking 
 about a bear. Rising up, I saw a bear walking to- 
 wards us. I said to the others that they must lie 
 down near the boat, imitating seals [?], while my com- 
 rade and I went towards the bear, who alternately 
 sank and reappeared behind the ice hillocks. We 
 waited until he came close up to us, whereupon my 
 comrade gave him a shot, and I finished him. off. 
 Thereupon the others joined us to drag him to the 
 boat. How wonderfully did Providence bring us 
 through the winter, and give us supplies ! At length 
 we were off the remotest part of the Westland, 
 whither the ice had brought us since last year: we 
 left the ship in the far north. We were now near the 
 country of the Tuluks without having suffered any 
 real misfortune.' Before we had finished the last of 
 our bear's-flesh the field opened, and we began catch- 
 ing seals, and sighted land, and when we proceeded 
 towards it we fell in with a ship. 
 
 Once in the afternoon, while still making for the 
 land, we discovered a vessel steaming northwards. 
 We tried to follow it ; but night fell, and we stopped 
 at the ice. At the same time there rose a dense 
 mist. During the night we showed two lights near 
 the boat, making them pretty large, that people on 
 board might observe us. After midnight I went to 
 sleep, when the others had risen. Towards morning 
 I was awakened by hearing them talking about 
 " ship ;" and when I got up I saw it emerging from 
 the fog. I directly set off in my kayak, and when I 
 came to them they questioned me : " Who are ye ?" 
 I answered: " Nord Pokn mut Polaris Bebeles" 
 
RESCUED. 73 
 
 [peoples ?]. Then furthermore they asked : " How- 
 do ye do?" 1 answered: "Captain UU Diet/' 
 whereupon they said: "Where's the ship?" I 
 answered : " Last year we left it." On hearing this 
 they said to me : " Just follow a little alongside the 
 ship, we will soon stop her." 
 
 When we had come up to my companions, they 
 lay to, to take them on board. I was the first who 
 set foot on deck, then followed the others ; and when 
 all had come on board it was as if we were ashore. 
 The Master of the ship and the crew altogether were 
 exceedingly kind to us, and pitied us who had spent 
 the whole winter, with our little children, on a piece 
 of ice. They gave us tobacco and pipes, and, before 
 all, a good meal. Their Master, from mere kindness, 
 was like a kinsman to us. 
 
 When the mist cleared we discovered another 
 vessel close by, steering towards flocks of seals which 
 lay upon the ice. Then the sailors in a body went 
 seal hunting. We were informed that the other ship 
 now had a full cargo of seals, and intended to start 
 on their return voyage. We delivered letters to them 
 concerning our rescue, but our ship had first to 
 complete its catch before returning. 
 
 In a few days we were ready. We then pro- 
 ceeded two days, I believe, towards land and three 
 days to reach the homestead of the Captain. First 
 we stopped in front of a hamlet where they said some 
 fishermen lived. Then we repaired to. the master's 
 place. Here for the first time we saw horses used for 
 draught, a very strange thing indeed to me and my 
 wife and children, though we had heard talk about 
 it. The day after we went ashore. The Master 
 invited us Inuks [Eskimo] with our children to a 
 meal : he was very loving towards us. We stayed 
 one day, on the third we left for another place called 
 Nevland. We travelled one day and reached it in 
 the evening. 
 
74 VISIT AMERICA. 
 
 Here resides an American consul [?]. We went 
 ashore with the Captain to take a view of the place : 
 he looked so pleasantly at each of us when he took 
 us along with him. He brought us to a house of the 
 most enormous size. On the ground floor there were 
 many rooms each with its waiters, I and my wife and 
 children were lodged in the middlemost floor, the crew 
 on the uppermost. Our countrymen the Westlanders 
 came to another house. Our Master Tarsta and 
 Mister Maje stayed with us in the large house, and we 
 had a luxurious living, no wants whatever, and were 
 presented with dresses. Every day we went out 
 driving with horses, to keep us healthy. Our 
 youngest son, however, from having dwelled through- 
 out the winter in such a severe cold could not properly 
 get strength. We also wished to have him christened, 
 and asked for some one who could baptize him. Then 
 a Clergyman, only think ! a Kavdlunak came to us 
 and performed the rite in our room, some few people 
 attending. 
 
 After some days a ship came from America to fetch 
 us. When we were going to embark, the man who 
 had to take care ot us questioned me : " How is thy 
 intention ; art thou willing to settle down in America, 
 or dost thou prefer to return to thy country?" I 
 answered : " I should like to return to my home land 
 when there is an opportunity." He replied : " Thou 
 wilt come to thy country all right." 
 
 We embarked in the vessel, a man-of-war. We 
 Inuks were lodged aft in the Captain's room ; we felt 
 very bashful, but were encouraged by the great kind- 
 ness which the officers showed us. In the evening some 
 soldiers near the ship sang very nicely. The follow- 
 ing day we started for America, We travelled, I have 
 forgotten how many days, and came to Washington, 
 where the Chief of America lives. Next morning they 
 asked us to go ashore, first him who had been our 
 Master during our stay on the ice, after him Mister 
 
WASHINGTON. 75 
 
 Maje, after him John, and lastly me and my wife and 
 children. 
 
 When we had come ashore the officer [Secretary of 
 State?] next, in command. to the Chief of America, 
 questioned me : " From what sort of disease did. Ull 
 die ?'.' , I answered : " I did not know his sickness 
 quite, but it was similar to stitch ; first he improved 
 for a while, but then he had a relapse and suddenly 
 died. . When I went to look at him, he tried to grasp 
 his left side. This is all that I have to say." He 
 also asked me : " What dost thou prefer, to settle 
 down here, or to return home ?" I answered : " I 
 wish to return to Upernivik when I can get an oppor- 
 tunity." He replied: "Thou wilt soon return;" and 
 he added : " Come to my house, all of you, to-night." 
 
 In the evening, three carriages came to fetch us. 
 We drove between numbers of houses and came to 
 many doors, and the doors were opened, and there 
 were also many soldiers and black men. We passed 
 by the house of the Chief, which was of an amazing 
 size, and came to that of his subordinate. On arriv- 
 ing at the entrance we went out of the carriage, 
 ascended big steps and came into a large house- 
 passage. Then again we went down a broad staircase 
 below the surface of the earth, where we entered a 
 large room, Here he regaled us, and treated us very 
 politely. He also gave us some images, his own por- 
 trait and that of the chief. When we had finished 
 our meal we returned to the ship. 
 
 The following day we left for a place farther to the 
 north and a little cooler, as they were anxious for us 
 on account of the heat. . First we touched at Boston, 
 stopping, I believe, for one day, then we landed in 
 New York. Here we stayed several days wondering 
 at the crowd of masts, the large buildings, and heaps 
 of people. While on board, we went on deck in the 
 evening to have a view of the many vessels that lay 
 intermingled, illuminated by thousands of lamps, 
 
76 VISIT AMERICA. 
 
 some of them furnished with red, some with blue, and 
 some with yellow glasses ; and their whistles were 
 heard, some very shrill, some less so. To be sure it 
 was an amazing view, the lights of the houses glitter- 
 ing like so many stars. At last I began to think on 
 the creation of the world, and I said to my comrade : 
 " How wonderful that all these people subsist from 
 the trifle that the soil produces ; behold the number- 
 less houses, the charming shores yonder, and this 
 calm sea, how inviting ! " 
 
 After some stay we were ready to travel by land in 
 a carriage to a sound which we were to cross. Before 
 we had seated ourselves I saw a man coming towards 
 us with a friendly face. On drawing nearer I recog- 
 nized Mister Trillis, the little doctor who was amongst 
 the people of [the ?] Tartikene [Doctor-Kane ?]. He 
 said: "Dost thou remember me?" I answered: 
 "Ah, Mister Trillis, I think." He then said: "Yes, 
 indeed it is I, come to see me." I rejoined: "We 
 are just going to start for the opposite side of the 
 sound." He behaved very kind towards us. We 
 seated ourselves in the carriage, went off and entered 
 a large building, inside of which we stopped, still 
 sitting in the carriage, and waiting for some who were 
 to go with us. Ithought we were in the house, when 
 my wife said to me : " Just look behind." We 
 looked round and noticed that what was behind us 
 was now sea. Now first I perceived that we were in 
 a ship. We crossed and landed on the other side, 
 still without leaving the vehicle, and we continued 
 our drive among many houses, until we arrived at a 
 ship by which we had to sail. Only then we stepped 
 out of the carriage and embarked for the interior of 
 the firth. 
 
 The vessel was very large, with two funnels. In 
 the evening at tea-time we entered the eating room, 
 where we found many gentlemen sitting at a table ; we 
 were placed at another table, and felt very shy. When 
 
TRAVELLING UP THE COUNTRY. 77 
 
 we had finished we thanked the great gentleman who 
 treated us so politely. On going to bed we were told 
 by one of the officers who had care of us, to sleep 
 without' undressing, and to look well after our luggage. 
 Early before it grew light we were to land and go in 
 the great waggon. During the night we were wakened, 
 and carrying our things we went into a vehicle, which 
 took us to where we had to await the railroad train 
 [literally : steamer by land]. We entered a large 
 house, where we were regaled in the eating room. 
 The Captain of the ship guided us thither, his name 
 was Christian. He intended to bring us to his father- 
 in-law, who had been an officer in the army, but now 
 had retired from old age. When we entered the large 
 building he asked us what we should like to eat. We 
 got some fresh meat. Soon a train came in, but they 
 said that ours would be in later. When those people 
 went out who were tq start with the first, they looked 
 like a crowd of church goers, on account of their 
 number. 
 
 Then our train arrived, and we tqok seats in it. 
 When we had .started and looked at the ground, it 
 appeared like a river, making us dizzy, and the 
 trembling of the carriage might give you headache. 
 In this way we proceeded and whenever we approached 
 houses they gave warning by making big whistle sound, 
 and on arriving at the houses they rung a bell, and 
 we stopped for a little while. 
 
 By the way we entered a long cave through the 
 earth, used as a road, and soon after we emerged from 
 it again. At length we reached our goal and entered 
 a large mansion, in which numbers of people crowded 
 together. It was almost stifling, I said jokingly to 
 fhem " Get out of the way." On the same occasion 
 we lost our companions, but on coming outside we 
 found each other again. Here a carriage drawn by 
 horses arrived with an old man, who now was to take 
 care qf 14s, the father-in-law of him who first had 
 
78 VISIT AMERICA. 
 
 attended us. He invited us to seat ourselves and 
 drive to the country of the farmers [cultivators], to be 
 lodged in an uninhabited house. We came to a very 
 fine land, over which lay spread the cultivators' houses. 
 Numbers of horses, oxen, and sheep were seen all 
 around, as if they were without owners, and the 
 habitations scattered here and there offered a beautiful 
 view. 
 
 The Captain, who brought us to his father-in-law, 
 had said : " I will come back to fetch you," and, 
 bidding us farewell, he had left us. His father-in-law 
 likewise was named Christian. He used to come 
 and look after us; every third day he brought us 
 provisions. Whenever he came his first words were : 
 "My children, how do ye do?" He was a very 
 pleasant man indeed. When he left us, he inquired 
 what sort of food we should like. He also used to 
 send us lumps of ice. To be sure, it was very hot ; 
 in calm weather we did not take a walk without 
 being provided with fans. 
 
 During our stay here in the country of the farmers, 
 lodged in the empty house, we used to get eggs and 
 milk from another house, where there lived people, 
 our foster-parent having allowed us to fetch them 
 there. We also frequently had visitors, who came in 
 large carriages. Sometimes, at noon, when we were 
 going to have our dinner, and people crowded in, we 
 felt embarrassed. However, they were all very kind, 
 and they used to give our children small coins and 
 sweets. 
 
 A clergyman also came to see us, from a place in 
 the neighbourhood. On leaving us he proposed to 
 my wife and me to attend service in the church next 
 Sunday, following the western road. On Sunday we 
 set off, with our little son, but we missed our road, 
 and after a tiresome walk returned. The following 
 Sunday we went off again, choosing another road, 
 and, passing by the farm-houses, we reached the 
 
RETURNING FROM THE FARMING COUNTRY. 79 
 
 church. When we came up to the people, who stood 
 waiting outside, a very friendly man accosted us, 
 saying : " When I enter the church, ye must follow 
 me." So we did, and he invited us to sit at his side. 
 This man was the schoolmaster : he started the 
 hymns, whose tunes sounded wonderfully fine. When 
 the parson had done, he sat down in his place, to 
 examine his pupils, that people who were present 
 might hear them. The cleverest first answered, 
 whereupon the others joined in a chorus. When the 
 service had ended, and we left, another man invited 
 us to his house, this being nearer. The parson and 
 the schoolmaster drove home, I don't know how far 
 off; but he whose house was close by the church 
 regaled us, and showed us its surroundings. 
 
 We spent a great part of the summer in the farming 
 country. In July we heard that two ships were going 
 to leave for Upernivik. One of them, which had 
 arrived from the country of the Tuluks, had run 
 aground, but was able to get off again. Afterwards 
 we heard that this was to carry us. The assistant of 
 the great gentleman came to bring us to our em- 
 barking-place, New York. We and my comrade and 
 his family, who were to remain in the country in a 
 seaport, now left. We travelled first by railroad 
 train, then in a carriage, then crossed a sound in a 
 steamer, proceeded a short distance on foot, and 
 then again by steamboat reached New York. On 
 arriving here, the ship which was to convey us was 
 taking in cargo, for which reason we stayed here 
 several days. 
 
 My comrade and I went to call on a gentleman, an 
 acquaintance of his, who had wintered five times in 
 his country, the Westland. We passed a road between 
 a great many houses. Being ignorant of where his 
 friend lived, we entered a merchant's shop to make 
 inquiries. The merchant, on seeing the portrait of 
 my comrade's friend, and, being asked as to his 
 
80 VISIT AMERICA. 
 
 home, showed us the road. He said that when we 
 had passed two places where the road divided, we 
 were to mount a carriage drawn by horses, and there 
 get further information. He added that another 
 carriage was soon coming which might take us, and 
 he gave a piece of paper with something written upon 
 it to my comrade. When we went outside, the 
 carriage had just passed. I ran after it and made 
 signs with my hand, whereupon they stopped to take 
 us. We only drove a short way, when they pulled up, 
 and we entered to another shopkeeper. He likewise 
 instructed us, and, when we left him his two daughters 
 followed, to show us the road to the carriage. When 
 it came up we made a sign and showed the paper, 
 whereupon they allowed us to take a seat. We drove 
 northward, and when we stopped they pointed out a 
 large house which was our destination. We went 
 towards it, and came to a railed-off place, opened a 
 gate, and entered. We found it overgrown with 
 beautiful trees, laden with fruits of every description. 
 We followed a large road without seeing people. We 
 came to the door and knocked. As nobody heard 
 us we opened it, and came into a large house-passage, 
 at the end of which we knocked at a door, and were 
 asked to come inside. 
 
 We found one man here, and my comrade recog- 
 nised his friend who had spent five winters with him 
 in the Westland. When he asked about me, he was 
 informed that I was the North Pole traveller, Hans 
 Hendrik. On hearing this he knew very well from 
 report that I had been much spoken about. We all 
 agreed in lamenting the death of our Captain [Hall]. 
 He also knew him well, from having roamed about 
 with him during fiye years in the Westland. Towards 
 evening he said: "Anything ye should wish to 
 demand, any amount of money, I will give you." 
 My comrade and I, after having deliberated, replied, 
 that we should like to have some cigars. Of course, 
 
LEAVING AMERICA. 8 1 
 
 I also liked money, but could not use it now, as it 
 could not be bartered in other countries [so I tried to 
 give a courteous answer ?]. When we left, the gentle- 
 man followed us to a shopkeeper, whom he asked to 
 give us cigars and tobacco. We got four boxes each, 
 and one more filled with cut tobacco, to be divided 
 between us. 
 
 In the evening we returned on foot, as now we 
 knew the road, and on the way frequently met armed 
 men who had to watch the road, and to whom we 
 applied for information. A few days after we left in 
 the ship. We touched at a place called Newfound- 
 land, to take in coals. On the third day we started 
 for Upernivik, but on the road touched at Kekertar- 
 •suak, where also we got coals ; I believe it took us 
 three days. From thence, on the third day, we 
 reached Upernivik- Thus ended this voyage. 
 
82 
 
 IV. 
 
 MY FOURTH VOYAGE TO THE NORTH, 
 
 WHEN I WAS ENGAGED BY THE TULUKS. 
 
 -J^GDS^S- 
 
 \T"he English Expedition under JVizres.] 
 
 Once I set out in a boat to fetch blubber from 
 Southern Upernivik [an outpost about 40 miles south 
 of Upernivik]. When we had departed we soon fell 
 in with southerly wind, and therefore made for a 
 harbour called Ingiudlertok. Ascending a small hill 
 and looking seawards, I sighted two ships off the 
 place where we were, and made out that they were 
 Arctic explorers. I went down and set off again for 
 our destined place. The wind was not very strong, 
 but the current took us to the north. The breeze 
 abating, we took down the sails and rowed back to 
 the harbour. I again went up the hill with the 
 Kavdlunak cooper. He questioned me about the 
 road to Southern Upernivik. I pointed out to him 
 where one had to go either by crossing the hills or by 
 coasling. I thought he had asked me the question 
 without any particular purpose. When we came 
 down to the boat he asked me for a walking-stick. 
 I gave him the longest tiller, thinking he intended to 
 
ENGAGED BY THE TULUKS. 83 
 
 walk to Southern Upernivik, though he did not 
 mention it. However, we waited for him till towards 
 evening, when I went up the hill, and spied him with 
 the glass. In the evening a southern gale sprang up, 
 with heavy rain and a foaming sea. I feared we 
 should have been driven ashore, as, for want of a 
 spot to fasten a rope, we only rode at anchor. I did 
 not sleep the whole night. My men tried to sleep, 
 but could not, on account of the rain. In the 
 morning, when the wind abated, I said to my crew : 
 " I will turn back now. If we remain here, we shall 
 have nothing to eat. However, I know that the 
 assistant will reprove me, thinking I have done so 
 for the sake of the Tuluks." We reefed sails, took 
 up the anchor, and started. We made a good head- 
 way, with a favourable wind. On approaching our 
 settlement [the outpost Proven, belonging to Uper- 
 nivik], we put out the reefs, as the wind lessened. 
 
 On entering the harbour we found that the Tuluk 
 vessels had arrived. When we were going to anchor, 
 the assistant [outpost-trader] came down, I feared to 
 scold me ; but on the contrary, he accosted me very 
 friendly : " I am glad thou hast returned, otherwise 
 the Tuluks would have gone to fetch thee. Thou art 
 to follow the northern explorers, taking Matak along 
 with thee." When I heard this I reluctantly agreed. 
 I went up to my house to take my best clothes, be- 
 fore I was ready they shouted outside : " The assistant 
 wants thee." When I came out to him, I found 
 there the Tuluk officers who had come to ask me 
 whether I was willing to go with them or not. At the 
 same time the assistant gave me a letter, by which I 
 understood that I was to go with them. Conse- 
 quently when they asked me whether I was willing, I 
 complied. They also talked about a companion for 
 me. I said I should like, as I went along, to pick up 
 my wife's brother who lived near Kip John [Cape 
 York?]. I believed him to be a good hand at 
 
 G 2 ' 
 
84 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 building snow huts. But as I was now going to 
 depart, I pitied my wife and my little children who 
 were so attached to me, especially my only son who 
 would not cease crying, as he preferred me to his 
 mother. I said to the master of the ship, that I 
 should like to take my little son and my daughter 
 Augustina along with me to Upernivik, where they 
 were to remain. Thereupon I left Kangersuatsiak, 
 making my fourth visit to the north, with the Tuluks.* 
 When we put to sea and I looked at the people on 
 shore, through the spy glass, I discovered my little 
 daughter, Sophia Elizabeth, lying prostrate on the top of 
 a big stone and staring at us. It was a sad sight which 
 made me shed tears from pity. But I felt consoled 
 by thinking that if no mischief should happen me or 
 her, we should meet again. I also got sight of my 
 wife standing amongst the crowd and looking 
 after us, I said to myself with a sigh : "May I return 
 to them in good health." 
 
 We arrived at Upernivik in the morning and again left 
 in the afternoon j my two little children followed me to 
 the beach. We made our way behind the islands. 
 East of Kingitok we stopped for a little while, as the 
 other ship had run oh a reef, but soon got off again. 
 North of Kingitok two kayakers left us, who had 
 followed us as pilots from Upernivik. We continued 
 to proceed towards the north, until the country where 
 people live came to sight, called Kip John by the 
 Tuluks and Ivnanganek by the natives. When we 
 were off this coast, we parted company with the other 
 ship, to visit the native settlements, and try to find the 
 man I wished to take along with me. 
 
 When we landed I observed footprints of men in 
 the snow, and supposed they were those of people 
 living in the eastern settlement. When they had 
 made fast the boat to the ice, I went over land with 
 
 * Hans was on ^oard the ' Discovery,' Captain Stephenson. 
 
MEETING WITH THE NATIVES. 85 
 
 an officer and a Kavdlunak cooper, whom the Tuluks 
 had engaged. While we walked over the hills, I 
 observed a sledge standing on the ice near the waters' 
 edge. We made for the eastern hamlet, but when we 
 arrived we found the houses empty, and only some 
 sealskins spread to dry. The sledge which we saw 
 had first been driving in an easterly direction, but 
 when they discovered the vessel they turned towards 
 her. When they came close to the ship, I asked 
 them : " Do ye know me ? " They answered : " Yes, 
 dost thou recognise us ? " I rejoined : " I only recog- 
 nise that old man amongst you." Who the others 
 were I could first make out when they had stated their 
 names, as I knew them well when they were children. 
 I questioned them : " Is Augina well ? " They 
 answered: "Yes, pretty well." "Where is he?" "On 
 that island yonder." When I heard this I said to the 
 Tuluks: "They say that he stays yonder on the 
 island." The commander then wanted the natives to 
 go and fetch him by sledge, but they said they did 
 not like on account of the great distance. Just when 
 we arrived here, the Tuluks had caught a narwhal : 
 they gave the natives some of its skin to eat, and 
 some biscuits. They did not care very much for the 
 bread, but greatly preferred the Matak (whale-skin). 
 
 We started and proceeded along the edge of the 
 ice towards the island, but stopped before we came 
 close to it. I then went quick by sledge with two 
 companions, an officer and the Kavdlunak cooper. 
 By the way we discovered two sledges driving north 
 of us. I instantly directed our course towards them, 
 and coming up asked : " Where is Augina ?" They 
 answered : " Yonder on the island, we come thence 
 making a long circuit on account of a crack." I 
 repeated this to my companions, who replied that I 
 might go thither : they intended to return to the ship, 
 I answered : " If I go, I shall not be back before 
 to-morrow, the captain has ordered us to make haste." 
 
86 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 When I made this objection, they agreed that we 
 should only return to the ship. These people also 
 soon recognized me, though I did not them, before 
 they told me their names, as I had only seen them in 
 their childhood. The old ones I knew quite well. 
 We repaired to the vessel followed by the natives ; 
 after having searched in vain for him whom I wished 
 to engage. 
 
 Starting from this place we continued our course 
 northwards, and touched at Eta. Here we went up 
 the firth to hunt reindeer, and came to the head of it. 
 We had the Captain with us. His steward asked me 
 to wait a little as he wanted to go with me. When I 
 went off with the master I fell ill from stitch. I got 
 sight of a hare, and when we drew nearer there were 
 two, of which the master shot one, and I the other. 
 When we had ascended the top of the hills and pro- 
 ceeded towards the glacier, my illness increased, and 
 I said to the Captain that I should like to turn back, 
 to which he agreed. In returning by the way, I 
 picked up the hares. My stitch grew worse ; when I 
 came to our camping place they were going to cook. 
 I had a severe cough, shivered from cold, and felt 
 very ill. Our companions came back with one rein- 
 deer. When we had finished cooking and eating we 
 returned on board. The following day we left. I 
 now grew very ill, and thought my life was near its 
 end, although we were unable to know the number 
 of our days. The doctor, however, gave me medi- 
 cine, but it was of no avail, and I could eat nothing. 
 At length he cupped me on my back, and this took 
 effect, I began to improve. 
 
 We now went north, coasting the Westland, while 
 our ships sometimes were stopped by ice. Whenever 
 it retired from the shore we went on, and when it grew 
 very bad we made fast to an iceberg. In this way we 
 reached the narrowest part of the sound between our 
 country and the Westland. 
 
OX-HUNTING. 87 
 
 On the 1 8th of August I caught my first seal, a 
 Natsek (firth seal). On the 22nd, in the night, we 
 arrived at our wintering station. "When in the 
 morning I came on deck, they told me that on board 
 the other vessel they had got a musk-ox, and I believe 
 three walruses, and that they had seen seals. It was 
 a great joy to know that here, there was something to 
 hunt. I was also informed that the other steamer 
 was to proceed farther, while we had to winter in this 
 place. When the others were going to start, I went 
 ashore to accompany them in my kayak some distance 
 and bid farewell to my comrade, the other native. I 
 stopped at the side of the ship and talked with him, 
 whereupon I went ashore in search of musk-oxen. I 
 ascended a hill and got sight of a large one. I 
 approached, taking care he should not see me. While 
 he went up another hill, I came close above him. 
 Just as he saw me he took to ijmning, but stopped to 
 stare at me, whereupon I fired, but at the same 
 moment he rushed on me as if unhurt. I retired, 
 loaded again and fired a second time, still he moved 
 towards me. But when I fired the third time he 
 turned back, and at the fourth shot he fell. This, my 
 first success in ox-hunting, happened on the 23rd of 
 August. While cutting it up, two officers caught sight 
 of me and I heard one of them cheerfully exclaim : 
 "Look there, Hans has got an ox!" After having 
 stayed a while with me they said : " Better remain 
 here, we are going on board to give information, and 
 then the sailors will come to fetch it." When they 
 had gone it grew evening, I spied with my glass, buc 
 nobody appeared. At last I repaired to the ship. I 
 was asked : " Where are the men who went to fetch 
 it, ? " I replied : " I did not see anybody, I was tired 
 of waiting for them and went off." I was informed 
 that they were gone to bring me food. Not before I 
 had been down to take my meal and came on deck 
 again they returned. 
 
88 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 The next five days I continued hunting, but in 
 vain. On Sunday we attended divine service. The 
 following day, August 30th, I travelled six English 
 miles into the firth, crossed a hill, and, spying with 
 the glass, discovered one ox. I descended towards 
 the head of the firth and saw a herd of the same 
 kind. Unfortunately my ammunition was insufficient, 
 I had only nine charges left. However, I came up to 
 them, shot six, and as then my ammunition was used 
 up, I pelted one more [which was wounded?] with 
 stones, but without killing it. I then returned. The 
 day after I did not go out, but the next we set out to 
 skin the oxen. We were accompanied by two officers 
 who intended to go a-hunting in another direction. 
 When I had climbed the hill 1 waited for my com- 
 panions, and on their coming up we found the one I 
 had pelted now dead. Its flesh began to turn on 
 account of the entrails not having been taken out. 
 Towards evening when they were going back, I said : 
 " I will remain here until I have skinned them all." 
 " But how wilt thou sleep ?" " The ox-hides will 
 afford me sufficient covering." When we had cooked 
 and eaten they left me. In the evening when I had 
 finished, I went to sleep. On awaking I saw three 
 hares, I seized my gun and fired, but without hitting, 
 whereupon I Jay down again. After a while I rose, 
 breakfasted and joined the ship. 
 
 On the 7th of September I got one ox, and only 
 two hares on the 25th, and five in the beginning of 
 October. When ice had formed, our Captain wanted 
 to travel by sledge. We also went in search of the 
 other ship in three sledges, one of which was drawn 
 by dogs, and went back. On the third day we tried 
 by land,' but were obliged to give up on account of 
 the deep snow. Some of our party also made a trip 
 in another direction, but soon returned without having 
 seen a live thing. I have noted my game during this 
 season as follows: — October 12th, one hare; 13th, 
 
A MELANCHOLY PERIOD. 89 
 
 one ; 17th, one ; on the 16th, the sun was just to be 
 seen [the last time] — 18th, two hares; 19th, two; 
 22nd, one ; 23rd, one; 26th, one; 27th, one. 
 
 In the month of November, moving about became 
 difficult from the darkness. About this time I ceased 
 to keep a record of the days. As I could not go out 
 hunting more, I lent a hand at work. We built up 
 walls of snow, making a large house for amusements 
 [performances], and another large building we formed 
 out of ice, intended for a smithy. The iceberg from 
 which we fetched ice for drinking water was half an 
 English mile off. I sometimes joined the men who 
 had the charge of this, as I could not stand having 
 nothing to do. I was not engaged for sailor's work, 
 but only as hunter, sledge-driver and dog feeder. 
 This is what I had promised, on leaving my home. 
 
 For three months I had no work at all. When 
 daylight appeared and one could look for some game, 
 I again tried for hares : the first time I got three, then 
 sometimes two, and sometimes one. Already before 
 the sun began rising again I was on my legs. I also 
 did duty as the Captain's sledge-driver in surveying 
 the country and climbing the hills, but when he re- 
 mained at home, I went alone. 
 
 While the dark season still lasted I began to per- 
 ceive that some of the crew were talking about me, 
 and had wicked designs towards me. We also used 
 to collect at nine o'clock in the morning, and stand 
 upright in a row near the ship in military fashion. 
 But I being a native was not accustomed to this. 
 Two officers then proceeded to examine our faces, 
 arms and feet [?] A little after nine o'clock the 
 clergyman appeared to read prayers. This was re- 
 peated every day. Also in the evening they assembled 
 to be inspected, but then without divine service. 
 One evening 1 heard them talking thus : " When Hans 
 is to be punished, who shall flog him ?" The boat- 
 swain answered : " I." To be sure, as I am not very 
 
qo THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 clever in English, and do not know whether I have 
 thoroughly understood their meaning, I only have 
 written this without any particular purpose 
 
 I also remember that in the beginning, when we 
 took our meals, I was placed at the table of the 
 first-class sailors [petty officers ?], but afterwards I 
 abstained [ ? ] from their table. In this way I grew 
 dejected, and the sadness of my mind was increased 
 by my having.no business on account of the terrible 
 darkness. So when I took a walk near the ship I 
 used to fall a-weeping, remembering my wife and little 
 children, especially that little son of mine who was so 
 tenderly attached to me, that I could not be without 
 him even when I was travelling with the transport 
 boat. However, I had one friend, a young man 
 named Tage ;* he sometimes took a walk with me, and 
 when I made him know my sorrow, he consoled me. 
 But at length my thoughts grew on me, and I took it 
 into my head to go away to the wilds. If I should 
 freeze to death it would be preferable to hearing this 
 vile talk about me. 
 
 Once when heavy with grief I thus walked alone, I 
 again heard them gossiping in their wicked manner. 
 I then said to myself : " These people are all united 
 as countrymen. I am the only one without any 
 comrade of my nation, the only abandoned one " — and 
 I ran away in the black night a distance of about 
 5 miles, when I stopped and meditated : '' Our Captain 
 likes me ; perhaps he will send people in search of me; 
 I will return, and if I am to be treated ill, the All- 
 Merciful will pity my soul." I turned back but resolved 
 to stop in the neighbourhood of the ship, as I knew 
 our Captain who was my friend would search for me. 
 I went ashore, dug a hole in the snow and lay down. 
 I had just fallen asleep when I heard footsteps, and as 
 they approached I went out. They asked me : " Hast 
 
 * Page, Captain Stephenson's steward. 
 
FIRST NEWS FROM THE OTHER SHIP. 9 1 
 
 thou slept?"—" Yes, I have slept." " Dost thou feel 
 oold ?"— " Only a little." The two officers said to 
 me : " Our Captain was afraid thou wert lost, we have 
 followed thy footprints, go home now." We went 
 down upon the ice and met several men carrying 
 torches. On coming on board the boatswain accosted 
 me : " To-morrow morning sleep sufficiently ; when we 
 rouse thou needst not rise, only sleep in peace," 
 The next morning I did not rise before I had' slept 
 well. At noon I got something to eat, and towards 
 ' two o'clock I was summoned by the Master, who 
 questioned me : " Why didst thou run away last 
 night?" I made answer: "I heard them talk badly 
 about me, and , thought they reviled me." He 
 rejoined : " Whenever thou hearst them speaking 
 thus, tell me directly." I afterwards heard them 
 speaking several times in the same way, but, never- 
 theless, did not mention it, because I supposed that, 
 if I reported it, none of them would like me more. 
 
 When bright daylight had set in, the Captain and I 
 used to travel about by sledge, to measure the height 
 of the mountains. Once, on our way homeward, we 
 saw a Tuluk coming. On drawing nearer, he shouted 
 to us that a sledge had arrived from the other ship. 
 When we returned, the officer next the Captain, 
 Mister Bluman,* reported that Petersen had been 
 frost-bitten, and that both his feet had been cut off. 
 First they had departed, but turned back again on 
 account of his being frost-bitten. All the others were 
 well, they said. Coming on board, we met the four 
 Tuluks. I made inquiry about my dear countryman 
 on board their ship, and it gave me pleasure to hear 
 that he was well. A few days later we set off for the 
 south with three sledges, two of them drawn by men, 
 while I, with the Commander, drove in a dog-sledge. 
 We were five persons in one sledge. The two hand- 
 
 * Lieut Beaumont, R.N. 
 
92 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 drawn sledges were intended for carrying provisions, 
 to make deposits in the uninhabited tracts. The 
 Captain and I returned, I have forgotten how many 
 days after, leaving the others, who proceeded still 
 further south. Having spent three days on board, 
 we started to visit the other craft. We were five now 
 also, and it took us several days to go thither. When 
 I got to the ship, and saw my countryman, he 
 appeared to me like a brother. He went off the next 
 morning, and was absent sledging, I believe, for three 
 days, and we then set off on our return journey. We 
 fell in with a tent, a party with the boatswain as their 
 leader, who had crossed to a part of our country 
 [Greenland]. The other party, in charge of the 
 officers, bad continued their trip. We stayed for 
 awhile with them, and then went on. When we came 
 to the rough ice we stopped, the Captain saying to me : 
 " Look well after the road we have to go ; if thou 
 thinkest it is possible, we will proceed to-morrow." 
 When we had eaten we went to sleep here. Early 
 the next morning, while the Captain slept, I rose and 
 went up the hills to con the ice. From the top I 
 discovered that farther off the shore it was quite 
 smooth. When I came down to the tent I found our 
 cook at his work. The Master asked me : " How is 
 our road ?" I answered : " Farther outside it is excel- 
 lent." After breakfast we started. When we had 
 passed the hillocks we came to level ice, advanced 
 quickly the whole day and went ashore in the even- 
 ing, reaching our ship the following day. 
 
 Some time later we set out for the harbour where 
 we wintered [Polaris Bay] when I was engaged with 
 the Americans, on the coast of our country [Green- 
 land], whereas now I was wintering on the west coast. 
 We crossed the sound and arrived in three days. We 
 found the house and put up our tent at its side. We 
 took out the provisions [?] and examined them, the 
 bread, the casks with smoked beef, one with molasses, 
 
SLEDGING TO GREENLAND. 93 
 
 also onions and several other kinds of eatables, 
 whereupon we returned. 
 
 Afterwards we went off in three sledges. First, 
 two drawn by men and carrying a boat; then we 
 others followed three days after in a dog-sledge. At 
 this time the sun began to give warmth, for which 
 reason we slept by day and travelled in the night. 
 We left in the evening, slept once and then reached 
 the others who moved on foot drawing their sledges. 
 We joined them and went in company to the opposite 
 coast [Greenland] where we put up three tents on a 
 cape, it was very pleasant indeed. Here we spent 
 many days waiting for the party from the other ship, 
 I had to drive with two officers, the second boatswain 
 Fransmand Telle* and Mister Fulfutt and Kapine.J a 
 young surgeon [?]. When at length they arrived, 
 four sledges started on their return [?], whereas I 
 with the two officers and the second boatswain set 
 out for the south, to explore the interior of the firth. 
 
 At first we got along quickly and slept on the 
 smooth ice. The next day we reached the glacier at 
 the head of the firth. On the following we went out 
 on foot, the two officers and I, along a steep cliff. In 
 returning, the officers said to me: " Go to the tent 
 and say : the officers want thee as cook ; they are 
 coming and will soon be here." I did as ordered, and 
 when they came in, we ate and rested, smoking, 
 whereupon off again to the glacier. During the night 
 we walked over it [?]. In the morning when the sun 
 gave warmth, we rested on the glacier. While the 
 officers took a walk, I went off shooting, as I expected 
 there might be a bear. I left my own gun and took 
 along with me a breech-loader belonging to the ship. 
 1 went down upon the ice and came to a fissure. 
 
 * Frank Chatel, Captain of ^he Forecastle, H.M.S. 'Dis- 
 covery.' 
 
 t Lieut. Fulford, R.N. 
 J Dr. Coppinger,, 
 
94 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 Here I shot at a big seal but missed it, when it 
 emerged I missed it again. Next day I went off with 
 my own gun and met with a large seal lying upon the 
 ice. I crept towards it hiding myself behind my 
 shooting curtain, and shot it, whereupon I went to 
 fetch the sledge and dogs. The man who had re- 
 mained came to assist me ; we boiled some seal flesh, 
 and had an excellent meal. 
 
 Our two officers had tried to walk over the glacier 
 but found it very difficult, its surface being both 
 slippery and terribly traversed by fissures. Before we 
 started I went to fetch some of my seal flesh, where- 
 upon we repaired to the edge of the glacier and rested 
 there. The next day I brought the rest of the seal 
 to the shore, and we crossed to the opposite side of 
 the bay over an even ice field. Also from this side 
 we found the glacier difficult of access, on account of 
 its ruggedness. From hence I went with only one 
 companion, Mister Fulfut, to look for the provisions 
 we had deposited last year in a place thereabout. We 
 found one bag with bread removed from the others ; 
 I think a bear must have tried to bite it. We returned 
 to the rest and soon proceeded to an island in the 
 mouth of the firth. I went hence with one man to 
 fetch my seal flesh. On returning I got sight of an 
 Utok [seal upon the ice]. I passed our tent, made 
 for the seal and succeeded in shooting it, but left it 
 to be taken away afterwards. The next day we ex- 
 amined the island. 
 
 From this spot we travelled to where I had wintered 
 some years before, and where our house still stood 
 [Polaris Bay]. We camped on the ice. On our 
 arrival we found a sledging party without dogs, headed 
 by an officer who last year had been with our other 
 ship. They were in a pitiful state, suffering from 
 scurvy, one of them having died, and only the officer 
 and one man being able to walk properly. We made 
 this place our temporary settlement, while I undertook 
 
TAKING CARE OF THE SICK. 95 
 
 to catch seals for them. The doctor ordered them to 
 eat seal flesh to recover strength. At the same time 
 we expected another party under the first lieutenant. 
 After several weeks, 'as we began to grow anxious, I 
 set off to look for them, accompanied by an officer, 
 named Mister Rulsen,* and the doctor. We travelled 
 all night, and when we approached our resting place, 
 I left my companions, to look for the provisions placed 
 there by me the other day. On my way back I fell 
 in with a hatching ptarmigan. I seized it and likewise 
 took the eggs, I believe there were six, and they were 
 without young. 
 
 Next day we continued our searching for the missing 
 party. I told my fellows I preferred driving overland, 
 as there was too much snow on the ice. We took the 
 strand and followed the shore-ice, but found it 
 frequently inundated and almost impassable on account 
 of the streams from the hills. My companions there- 
 fore walked over the land, while I continued along the 
 shore-ice. They soon shouted to me to stop, as it was 
 time to dine. Consequently we halted and took to 
 cooking. When they came down to me, I said ; "Look 
 at that black point yonder, it appears to be a tent, 
 and close by it I see something like a sledge." I 
 grasped my spy glass and to our great joy made out 
 the tent, the sledge and the two men. 
 
 When we had finished our meal, we left our tent 
 and hastened to them. On drawing nearer, they came 
 towards us, three men pulling a sledge. They stopped, 
 and one of them advanced. We soon recognised 
 him, Mister Bluman,f the officer next the Captain. 
 He reported that they had four men sick, two of 
 them on the sledge, two in the tent. Moreover, of 
 the remaining three, one could scarcely walk, so 
 there were hardly more than two to pull the sledge, 
 
 * Lieut. Wyatt Ranson, R.N. 
 t Lieut. Beaumont, R.N. 
 
96 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 aild the leader looked very emaciated. We came up 
 to them, and found their condition appalling. After 
 having taken two on my sledge, I brought them to 
 our tent, whereupon we fetched the others, with the 
 tent and some provisions, my companions assisting 
 by dragging. When we had rested, we removed to 
 the place where we had our provisions [?]. I first 
 had two [sick men ?], and then returned to take the 
 other two, just as the day before. Here we stayed 
 awhile. I went out to shoot seals on the ice, but got 
 none, on account of the deep snow mixed with water. 
 
 We started, I carrying the luggage on my sledge, 
 I was obliged to stop at times, to enable them to 
 come up. I therefore proposed to fasten the other 
 sledge to mine. When we had done so, we moved 
 on quickly, both sledges being dragged by the dogs, 
 and the hindmost, moreover, pushed forward by men. 
 We travelled the whole night ; when the sun began 
 to grow hot, we rested. Next morning I started, with 
 the doctor and two sick men, to reach our friends, 
 whom we had left at the late wintering station of the 
 Americans. We travelled the whole night under 
 great difficulties, on account of the streams running 
 down from the land and the inundated valleys. 
 Having arrived, and given rest to the dogs, I went 
 back again with two men ; but before we started, one 
 of the ailing men whom I had brought died. First 
 we travelled over the ice, but as we were unable to 
 proceed for water, we went ashore. I drove as much 
 as possible over snow, although it was very soft and 
 filled with water from below, whereas my companions 
 preferred a snow-bare road. 
 
 When we reached the tent, the two officers came 
 out to us, and when they were informed about the 
 one who had died, they asked us not to mention this 
 to their patients. When we had eaten we lay down 
 in the resting-place of the officers. One of them 
 wanted to use my dogs to fetch what they had de- 
 
HUNTING SEALS FOR THE SICK. 97 
 
 posited. When we awoke he had already returned, 
 and was sleeping upon the sledge. We placed the 
 two sick men and the tent on the sledge, and started 
 with two sledges, both of them loaded [ ?]. When 
 we were to go down upon the ice we left the other 
 sledge and reached the house. 
 
 We now had three tents here a great part of the 
 summer. I caught seven Natsek and three Ugsuk 
 seals. Their flesh was a sort of medicine to the 
 invalids. In June, hunting on the ice was hindered 
 by its being covered with water. As soon as this 
 began clearing off, I said to our officers that it would 
 be better to cross the sound with the dogs before the 
 ice broke up, as there was not sufficient room in the 
 boat. They consented, and I believe two days after 
 they went off [ ? ]. I followed to assist them, but 
 returned to hunt for those who remained. Four days 
 after their departure the ice broke up ; I believe it 
 was the day after they had reached the opposite shore. 
 
 Thereafter we waited many days for those who 
 should come to fetch us. At lengtLwe sighted people 
 dragging a sledge and a boat. It was our Captain, 
 who arrived with a number of sailors. After .having 
 stayed some days, he said to me : " To-morrow we 
 will repair to the ship ; go with us as our guide." 
 Next morning we went off, leaving the sick, who had 
 begun to walk about. When we were going, our 
 Captain said : " Now, show us the road ; go ahead of 
 us, and we will follow." Thereupon we started, and 
 crossed the open water in a boat. When we came to 
 the heavy ice, I searched for the best road, accom- 
 panied by the Captain. He used to question me : 
 "Which way are we to go?" I answered: "Look 
 here; this will be better." It was lucky the Com- 
 mander treated me as a comrade ; I did not feel shy 
 in speaking with him, as with other gentlemen. So 
 we travelled partly over ice, partly by sea ; I don't 
 know how many days it took us to cross the sound. 
 
 H 
 
98 THE ENGLISH EXPEDITION. 
 
 When we had reached the Westland, we proceeded 
 by land to the ship. On approaching it we met with 
 two men who were sent out to bring us something to 
 eat — one of them the shoemaker, the other an engine- 
 man. We rested and cooked, glad to see each other 
 again, both of them belonging to my particular friends. 
 After having finished our meal, we proceeded on board. 
 
 After reposing for two days, I went out to look for 
 hares and wild geese. There were also many owls in 
 this place, young as well as old. Of hares and geese 
 I sometimes got as many as I could carry on my 
 back [?]. But pretty far off the Tuluks had a tent 
 on the top of a hill, to watch the approach of the 
 other ship, which was now expected, and -at the same 
 time look for the men we had left on the opposite 
 coast. Once it was said our other vessel was close 
 by, only stopped by ice. This gave us much pleasure, 
 the boat which was expected from beyond the sound 
 now being our only care. Again they reported that 
 our other ship had run ashore, but would be able to 
 get off at high tide. Others believed it could not 
 get off. To our great joy, it arrived. Now people 
 were sent to fetch those on the opposite coast. They 
 were turned back by ice, but then the others arrived 
 of their own accord, and now at length we were 
 ready to start on our return voyage, though the ice 
 was still very bad. 
 
 The Captain of the other vessel kept a good look- 
 out for the road; he went up the hills incessantly 
 without being tired. At length we started, although 
 it appeared as if there was no thoroughfare in the 
 direction we were to go. However, farther off there 
 was more open water, and this we reached. During 
 one day and night we traversed a tolerably ice-free sea, 
 but then again had to force our way close along the 
 shore, going on whenever the pack retired a little. 
 The Captain of our other ship was beyond all praise, 
 one might think he neither slept nor ate. Sitting in 
 
RETURNING FROM THE FAR NORTH. 99 
 
 his look-out in the mast he sometimes took his meal 
 there. On account of his extraordinary skill in ice- 
 navigation he was our leader. During this passage I 
 caught two seals, one Natsek and one Ugsuk. While 
 we thus struggled with drift-ice, new ice began forming, 
 thick enough to be walked over, but at length we 
 came to open sea. 
 
 During the night they wakened me and gave me a 
 letter ; I directly recognised it to be from Upernivik, 
 from my homestead. When I had read it, I learned 
 that my wife and children were well, and now I felt 
 consoled. We proceeded against a southerly wind 
 and searched for whaling vessels on their fishing 
 grounds, but did not see any. We sighted land about 
 Tasiusak and tried to touch at Natsilivik, where lived 
 natives, but were obliged to turn seawards, and to my 
 disappointment passed Upernivik without approaching 
 the coast on account of the heavy gale. When the 
 wind abated we landed at Kekertarsuak [Disko]. 
 Here I was allowed to remain, and I felt consoled 
 to know that I could stay with the Inspector, as he 
 was very friendly towards me. He desired me to 
 write what I had seen, and though unskilled in com- 
 position, I have tried to give this account of my 
 voyages, while engaged thrice with the Americans and 
 once with the Tuluks. Four times in all I travelled 
 to the North. 
 
 And now I bid farewell to all who have read my 
 little tale. I minded my business, sometimes under 
 hardships, sometimes happy. May all who read this 
 live happily in the name of the Lord ! 
 
 Written in the year 1877. 
 
 Note. — When I wrote the present account, I knew 
 the 'Polaris' Expedition only from its being occa- 
 sionally mentioned in various journals and books, 
 
IOO CONCLUSION. 
 
 especially Commander Markham's A Whaling Cruise. 
 After its being delivered to the press, I was favoured 
 by receiving from the Naval Observatory in Washington 
 a copy of the official work on the said expedition, 
 which, of course, I immediately studied with the 
 greatest interest. It may be understood how I was 
 gratified by seeing how Captain Tyson and his fellow- 
 sufferers fully acknowledge the assistance rendered to 
 them by Joe and Hans, without whose skill in catching 
 seate they would never have escaped perishing from 
 cold and starvation during their marvellous passage 
 across the ocean upon a piece of ice. The disagree- 
 ments found here and 4here between the two accounts 
 I find *are comparatively trifling, and easily explained 
 by so many details being given by Hans merely from 
 his memory. A curious one is that " Mister Tarsta " 
 seems, to refer partly to Chester, partly to Tyson. 
 Whether he may have taken the names to be iden- 
 tical, or confounded the persons in his memory, I am 
 quite unable to make out. 
 
 H. R. 
 
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