,itt!«iaW«fiSte»9SS«WW»et^^ ;mAi»Biiii*i>WH«W'"'ii»i ii¥»»»iw«'«wwBwa'W**?>#*ii^ LIBRARY ANNEX p K iiiitiiiaitfHiiitiiiiia^ktitKtt^^ ■},'S'»^^W0^^^?W'^'^''^^'*^'^ Sj< I ANNEX 53 HS5- LIBRARY B ffi^aH 104524 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FROM Carter H. '^ingsley Cornell University Library SK 33.H55 Perils and pleasures of a hunter's life; 3 1924 016 407 698 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924016407698 PERILS AND PLEASURES OS A HUNTEE'S LIFE; OR THE ROMANCE OF HUNTING BY TEREGRINE HERNE. PHILADELPHIA : PUBLISHED BY JOHN E. POTTER & CO., Nob. 614 anj» 617 SANSOM STREET. /^7Wf u? ^^. (4^^- X ^^ -^^ fatered, According to the Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by J. W. BRADLEY, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in an4 for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. PREFACE, Hunting, which is the amusement of most of those who pursue it, is a business with many. On the borders of civilization, and in the midst of barba- rous and half-civilized regions, are men whose sole occupation is the chase ; and, with these men, it is not only an occupation, but a delight. They live on the flesh of those quadrupeds and birds which are considered game, and they pursue with a fierce pleasure those beasts of prey which are the terror of the peaceful rustic, and the destroyers of his flocks and herds. The adventures of these genuine hunters are fuU of thrilling incidents and hair- breadth escapes. They constitute the romance of hunting. (V) VI PRErACB. In the following autobiography of a hunter, the reader will find a specimen of this species of romance. It is not without its moral. It shows what a man is capable of daring and doing, even for the mere love of adventure; and thus fore- shadows what higher things he might dare and do under the potent influence of a higher motive. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bough Bear-faoed Introduction. -..-.. ^ CHAPTER n. The Prairie Wolf and the Rocky Mountain Sheep. - - - 18 CHAPTER ni. A Comrade and Fresh Sports. ---.-..24 CHAPTER rv. Camp on the Little Sandy. Buffalo in abundance. . - • 81 CHAPTER V. Mr. Palliser and his friends. Camp Stories. .... 37 CHAPTER VI. Baiting for an Alligator. ----.-••94 CHAPTER Vn. ir. Palliser continues his Adventures. - - - . . 6J (vii) via CONTENTS. CHAPTER vrn. Breaking up of the Prairie Camp. Betum to the MountainB. Antelope. Oarcagien. ------- 67 CHAPTER IX. Morning among the Rocky Mountains. Encounter with Sho- shoneea. A Grizzly Bear. Fight and terrible result. - - 63 CHAPTER X. Fire on the Mountains. Narrow Escape. The Beaver Region. Trapping Beaver. ---.---. 70 CHAPTER XL Arrival of Joe Blaney. Kill an Arapaho. Start for the Ren- dezvous. ---------- CHAPTER Xn. Life at the Trapper's Rendezvous. Adventurous engagement with an English gentleman. ------ 87 CHAPTER xnr. A Journey and Hunt through New Mexico. Start for South America. - ..--.---92 CHAPTER XrV. Arrival at Rio. Hunting in the Forests of Brazil. ... 99 CHAPTER XV. Buenos Ayres. Hunting on the Pampas. ----- 107 CHATER XVT. Life on the Pampas. Return to Buenos Ayres. Set sail for the Cnpe of Goad Hope. ----.. ng CONTENTS. a CHAPTER XVII. Arrival at the Capo of Good Hope. Start on a Hunting Expedi- tion into the interior of Africa. -----. 122 CHAPTER XVin Exciting chase of the Gemsbok. Beauty of Orange River. Chase of the Rhinoceros. Chase of an Elephant. - . - 128 CHAPTER XIX. The Roar of the Lion. Still Hunting at the Fountain. The Lion and the Lioness. The Wildebeest. Resume the March. Chase of the Giraffe. Buffaloes. ..... 142 CHAPTER XX. The Eland. A Bechuana Kraal. Herds of Wild Elephants. Lions attacked by Bechuanas. Abundance of Game. The Return Trip. Splendid Sport. Fall Sick. Arrival at Gra- hamstown. ......... 165 CHATER XXL Arrival at Cape Town. Send the trophies to England. Start for Bombay. The Town and the People. Away for the Forests and Jungles. - . . - - - . -179 CHAPTER XXIL The Route. Incidents of the Journey. Varied Scenery. Ar- rival in the Region of the Tiger and the Elephant. Our first Elephant Hunt in India. - - - - - - -186 CHAPTER XXm. Domus. Surat. The Nature of the Jungles beyond. A Boa Constrictor. A Tiger. A Lion. Terrible Conflict. - - 194 CHAPTER XXIV. The City of Baroche. The Jungles again. Rhinoceros. Ante- lope. Camp in the Jungle. Alarm. A Lion. Sahtee. Ar- rival at Baroda. - - , ... 205 S CONTEXTS. CHAPTEBXXV. Baroda. Continne onr Journey nortiiwaTd. A Singnlar Mode of TTiiTi ting the Tiger. The Falcon and the Crows. Eonte to Cambay. --------- 213 CHAPTER XXVI. Cambay. The Jonmey through North Gnzerat. The Ichnemnon. Adventore with a Cobra di Capello. Elephant Catching. Hunting the Tiger with Elephants. Ahmedabad. Start to Ketom by water to Bombay. -.-..- 227 CHAPTER XXVIL Leare Bombay for Suet Jonmey through Egrpt. Sail &om Alexandria for Gibraltar. Journey tfarongh Spain. Crosrang the Pyrenees. Encounter with a Bear, France. England. 245 CHAPTER XXTHL England. Mr. Barrill's Country Seat A Hunting Expedition to TyroL Our first Chamois Hunt and its Thrilling Incidents. Adventures of Chamois Hunters. Return to England. Pre- pare to Start for America. ------- 260 CHAPTER XXIX America. The Natire Land. Purchase a House in Texas. Jour- nev to Brown's Hole. The Farmer and the Hunter. Con- cluding Picture. -------- 290 A Pigeon Hunt on the Ohio. ----... 298 A WQd-Hog Hunt in Texas. ------- 818 Hunting the Black-tailed Deer. ------- 335 PERILS AND PLEASURES OS A HUNTEE'S LIFE. CHAPTER I. A ROUGH, BEAR-FACED INTRODUCTION. The grizzly monster glared at me from his rocky perch with the eyes of a fury. It was no time for hesitation. I raised my rifle, took a quick aim at the shoulder of the hear, — the only part fairly exposed — and fired. The next moment there was an awful growl, and my fierce enemy came limping down the pass towards me. I turned and ran toward a small pine that stood by the side of the pass, about a hundred yards from the spot where I had fired. I reached the tree, dropped my rifle, and, with a few rapid jerks, reached the lower limb, just as the bear dashed to the foot. Such was the monster's 2 (13) 14 INTRODUCTION. tremendous strength, that as he clasped the tree I thought he would break its trunk in twain. How he growled and glared ! But I felt comparatively safe ; and with a mali- cious coolness, I pulled out my revolver, and shot ball after ball into the vital parts of the bear, who at length, after receiving the ^ist ball in his side, feU over and yielded his breath. "An admirable exploit!" the inexperienced reader would, perchance, exclaim. But as a practised hand with the rifle and revolver, among the crags of the Rocky Mountains, I could not consider it as such. My father — old Peregrine Heme — may he have reached the happy hunting-grounds ! — would have snapped his fingers at the achievement, and I who was ambitious of " treading in the footsteps of my illustrious predecessor" — merely judged that I had done pretty well. I was then about twenty-five years of age. Up to my twentieth year I had resided in St. Louis, ■nith my mother, more attentive to books than mountain and prairie sports. My mother died, and I then joined my father, who was the most restless of men — in his hunting expeditions in the far west. Five years of such a life had given me the expe- rience necessarv to make a hardy mountaineer and a successful hunter. Having killed many a bear, and made many a narrow escape from death, it couid not be expected that the destruction of the animal mentioned INTRODUCTION. 15 iibove should be to my mind an admirable exploit, bow- ever it may appear to tbe uninitiated. The vanquished bear was of considerable size — weigh- ing probably twelve hundred pounds. I had frequently seen them mucb larger, bears weighing fifteen hundred pounds being common in the Rocky Mountains. The skin, I thought, would be a valuable addition to my pack, and the fat sides promised me good living for several days. Skinning the bear was quickly performed. Ac- cording to the custom of the mountaineers, I cut off one of the hind feet to retain as a trophy ; then secured my steaks — hungry as I was, they made my mouth water, as the phrase goes — and leaving the carcass to the wolves, descended to the foot of the pass. My faithful mules — Old Fly grass and Young Oregon — were cropping the scanty herbage near a small rivulet that ran at the foot of the rocks. Their packs were lying under a, ledge — a shady spot where I had resolved to encamp when startled by the bear-sign. It was the afternoon of a June day — the sun was very warm, and having jour- neyed about twenty miles since daybreak, I was fatigued enough to enjoy a cool shade, a good meal, and a few whifis of the pipe. Kindling a fire was a work of some diflSculty. Trees were scarce near the Pass. I was at least half an hour in gathering dry twigs, bark, and leaves, and nearly the same time was occupied in hunting up a 16 INTRODUCTION. stout limb for -what is usually called a "back-log." But the fire was kindled, and with the ramrod of my rifle I spitted the steaks for broiling. The mules were tethered so as to allow them plenty of grazing room, and then my mountain camp was formed. And now while the meat is simmering before the fire, and I am preparing my sea^ soning, I can find time to let the reader know where I am, how I got there, and what is my object. My camp was within about twenty miles of the Great South Pass, in the Kocky Mountains, at the foot of a narrow rugged path, worn by hunters and war-parties of Indians. At this point, the mountains were neither lofty nor steep, but very rocky and bare. The rivulet of which I have spoken was one of the many which went to form the Sweet Water River. From the foot of the mountain an undulating plain stretched away, covered with a short parched grass. Occasionally a small band of buffaloes, a straggling deer, or some gaunt wolves would appear in the distance, linger awhile, and then hurry out of sight, while prairie-dogs, chameleons, and enormous beetles were constantly to be seen, playing among the grass and sand. From my camp, I could see the Wind River Mountains, glittering in mantles of snow, while the Sweet Water Mountain capped in clouds, looked gray and cool, in striking contrast with the plain at its foot. So much for my situation. As to the ivhereforc of my INTRODUCTION. 17 being there, a few words of explanation will suffice. I had been trapping beaver up the Yellow Stone, and hav- ing been forced to leave that region by the bands of Blackfeet, before I had fairly begun to trap, I had come to the mountains, with the hope of making a pack of bear-skins, or at least, of living well upon the meat of the bear and the Rocky Mountain sheep. Thus far I had met with tolerable fortune, having already stowed away in my packs, three bear-skins, four sheep-skins, and about a dozen deer-skins. Still I had much work to perform, to earn my winter's support at the mountaineer rendez- vous, " Brown's Hole." Deprived of my usual stock of beaver, which always brought me a good living price, 1 knew that it would take many a hunt to supply the defi- ciency. However, my mules were sound, my arms in prime order, and my ammunition was abundant. I had the fullest confidence in my own ability to contend with the dangers and privations of the wilderness, and as I laid myself by the fire on that June night, with the starry sky for a roof, and the howling of the prairie-wolf for my lullaby, I feared neither wild beast nor savage man. CHAPTER II. I'HE PRAIRIE WOLF AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP. I CONTINUED hunting in the neighborhood of the South Pass — the region in which game of all kinds was abundant, and where my solitary life was occasionally relieved by a meeting with hunters or emigrants. The only Indians I cared to avoid were the Arapahoes and Blackfeet. Strag- gling parties of those tribes occasionally appeared in close proximity to me, but I always contrived to conceal my- self, so as to escape their notice. Most of the tribes were friendly to the white hunters, and with many of the chiefs I had an acquaintance intimate enough to insure me against attack. I was known among them as a good hunter, and was always sure of a welcome at their lod Shoshonees, and the command was given to Joe Blanty The track was boldly marked, and easily followed. It led us along the bottoms, and then up the mountain i a short distance, when it descended a broad and deep ra- vine, where the bushes grew high and thick enough to afford shelter to the largest animal to be found among the mountains. Here Joe commanded a halt, while he ad- vanced around the brink of the ravine, to reconnoitre. But he could see no trace of the bear. We then con- cluded to descend the ravine cautiously in twopar;its, one CO follow the bear's trail, under Joe's command, and the other to descend from the opposite side of the ravine, under my lead. When both columns were "in position," to use a mili- tary phrase, we slowly commenced the descent, amid the thick and gloomy bushes. Near the bottom of the ra>ine, Joe and I discovered ihe monster almost at the samo joe's fight with the bear. 67 moment. He was sitting upright, and eating berries from a bush. We fired nearly at the same moment, and botb balls took effect, but did not inflict a mortal wound. The monster groaned with pain, jumped aside, and seeing Joe before him, dashed upon him "Do your best, men," shouteC .he gallant hunter, as he stood his ground, struck the bear with his clubbed rifle, and discharged his pistol into the animal's body. In an instant, the pistol was knocked from his hand, and he was rolling on the ground in desperate conflict with the fero- cious monster. Most of the Indians ran away. Those who remained were afraid to fire, because they might have hit Joe instead of the bear. With tooth and claw, the flesh was torn from the hunter's face and body, while he, clenching his knife, stabbed his foe many times. Watch- ing a favorable opportunity, I stepped up behind the couple, put my rifle close to the bear's ear, and shot him dead. He fell over, even with his last motion sinking his claws deep into Joe's lacerated body. A loud shout was raised by the Indian hunters. They had done positively nothing ; yet they made the most noise in the triumph. My attention was entirely engrossed with poor Joe. He was horribly disfigured, and fainted from torture and loss of blood. I obtained assistance, raic^^'' iiim up, and strove to revive him. The Indians slcjk their heads, and declared that he was dead. However, ^8 JOE LAID ON HIS COUCH. they assisted me to carry him to camp. One party made a sort of litter on which they placed the bear, and followed it to camp. Near the camp, the squaws and children came to meet tis, and seemed extremely anxious to celebrate a triumph in their savage waj'. But a sight of the wounded man put a damper on their exulting enthusiasm, and the squaws, with commendable tenderness of feeling, immediately ran to get their little stocks of medicines. One of the chiefs tendered me the use of his lodge, of which I gladly availed myself. Joe was laid on a soft couch of skins, and while I superintended, some of the squaws washed and dressed his wounds, with a skill and delicacy peculiar to these wild daughters of the mountains and plains. Before the gentle surgeons had completed their labors, Joe revived, and seeing me near him, tried to smile. " Not gone under yet, Percy, but awful sore," said he, and then, after a pause, during which he writhed in pain, he inquired, " Did you conquer old grizzly, Percy ?" Upon learning that the bear had been killed, and was in camp, he appeared to enjoy much satisfaction. I examined his wounds and found that some of them were severe, none were dangerous. A few weeks under the treatment of the Shoshonee squaws would make all sound again. After a short conference, it was agreed, that Joe should remain with the Shoshonees, until perfectly well, and that his SIIOSnONEE NURSES. 6^J mules and packs should remain with him ; while 1 pushed forward to the beaver region, and tried my luck at trap- ping. This arrangement wa:s satisfactory to all parties. My stay at the camp could do Joe no good, and it woulo only have been a waste of time. The Indian women were exceedingly kind and atten- tive to the wounded hunter ; and being better acquainted than myself with the healing art, could cure him without my aid. The only difficulty concerned his animals, which I feared would be neglected, and perhaps stolen. I spoke of them to a chief, and he pledged me his word that they should be as well taken care of as if Joe himself waa superintending them. CHAPTER X. /IRE ON THE MOUNTAINS. NARROW ESCAPE. THE BKAVER REGION. TRAPPING BEAVER. On the morning after the fight with the bear, I gave some final directions in regard to Joe and his animals, and once more started forth alone. In fording the Yampah river, I came near losing my cimaron. I had taken it on the mule with me, and not being used to such a position, it struggled and broke from me, and fell into deep water. With some difficulty I succeeded in grasping it by the horns, and dragged it along through the water, till young Oregon ascended the opposite bank of the stream, when it was once more permitted to run by the side of old Flygrass. The old mule had become much attached to Fondle, and I was very glad for her sake, as well as my own, that the pet was saved. I travelled all the morning over an undulating road, crossing several streams, and "hugging" the base of the (TO, FIRE ON THE MOUNTAINS. 71 mountain range. About noon, I calculated I was full fifteen miles from the Shoshonee camp and my suffering friend, Joe. I then fastened my animals beneath some shady trees on the banks of a little rivulet that sparkled over a sandy bed, made a slight repast of dried buffalo meat, and set off up the mountain, to see what game I could kill, for fresh food. The day was very warm, and the chase of two black- tailed deer led me over such rugged ground, and through such difficult thickets, that, when I at length brought one of them to the ground, I was quite tired, and having se- cured my game to my person, I sat down upon a rock overlooking the prairie bottom, and fell into a doze. When I awoke the the sun had already set ; but, although darkness was fast gathering over the mountains, I was surprised to see a bright light flickering against its sides. A glance assured me that the mountain was on fire, and, starting up, I saw at once the danger of my position. The bottom had been fired but a short distance from where I secured my animals. A dense cloud of smoke was hanging over a gorge, and presently, a light air springing up from the east, a mass of flames shot up into the sky and rolled fiercely up the stream, the belt of dry brush on its banks catching fire and burning like timber. The mountain was already invaded by the de- vouring element, and two wings of flame spread out from ('2 FIRE ON THE MOUNTAINS. the main stream, which, roaring along with speed of a race-horse, licked the mountain-side, extending its long line as it advanced. The dry pines and cedars hissed and cracked, as the flame, reaching them, ran up their trunks and spread among the limbs, while the long wav- ing grass underneath was a sea of fire. From the rapidity with which the fire advanced I feared that it would al- ready have reached my animals, and hurried at once to the spot as fast as I could run. The prairie itself was as yet untouched, but the surrounding ridges were clothed in fire, and the mules, with stretched-ropes, were trembling with fear. I immediately released the animals, mounted young Oregon, threw the cimaron across the back of old Fiygrass, and secured my packs. Fondle struggled and fell from its position between the packs. I could not wait. The fire was rapidly surrounding me, and cutting off my es- cape. Taking hold of the rope attached to Flygrass's bridle, I drove the spurs into young Oregon, and rode for a broad stream, which was visible full five miles in an oblique direction from my camp, and at a considerable distance from the mountain. In that stream I could pro- ceed till I reached the sandy plain, where the fire could have but scanty fuel. The fire was travelling with amaz- ing quickness through the bottom, and it was an exciting "ace for me to reach the stream, before the fierce olazo CO 1-3 O FIRE ON THE MOUNTAINS. 73 began to advance along the bank. However, this was achieved — Young Oregon plunged into the stream, and waded in, waist-deep. Flygrass, who had broken from my hand during the race, came in ahead of the cimaron, which was slightly singed as the fire reached the bank. I jumped from my horse, drew Fondle into the water, remounted young Oregon, taking my pet in my arms, and leading the old mule, descended the stream to the plain. On each side of me, the ground was a sheet of flame, and the heat and smoke nearly overcame me. It was a struggle for life, however, and at length, I stood upon the prairie, where the herbage was so short, that the fire could take no hold. There I felt safe and took advantage of my situation to view the awful scene around me. The mountains themselves being invisible, the air, from the ground where I stood, appeared a mass of fire, and huge crescents of flame danced, as it were, in the very sky, until a mass of timber, blazing at once, exhibited the gloomy back ground of the rocky range. The bottom was like a lake of fire, while above it rolled vast clouds of black smoke. Here and there, antelopes and cimaron appeared, so frightened, that they rushed directly into the jaws of the devouring element, and perished. Some of these animals, partly scorched, scampereifcaway over the plain, followed by flocks of wolves, who narrowly escaping themselves, seemed resolved that the poor antelopes 7 74 FIRE ON THE MOUNTAINS. Bhould not enjoy the same exemption from death. My pet cimaron shuddered at the sight of the ravenous ■wolves, and crept close to my side. Following custom in such cases, I drew my animals into as small a space as possible, and then fell to work pulling up the herbage within a circle of about fifty feet in dia- meter. As it was extremely scanty, this was a labor quickly performed. The fire swept far and near. I was completely surrounded by the flames, but succeeded in keeping myself and stock unscorched. When any herbage caught my camp, I quickly trampled it out, and although thus kept rather busy, I rendered myself more secure. From the direction of the wind, I judged that the Sho- shonee encampment would escape the fire. For this, I thanked God, as had the encampment been attacked, Joe would have been abandoned to his fate. I was unacquainted with the origin of the fire ; but conjectured that some marauding Indians, perhaps Ara- pahoes, had taken this method of destroying some of their enemies, or stealing their horses and mules, as this is often attempted. Occasionally, however, these tremen- dous fires originate in accident, such as dropping a spark among some dry leaves, or the blowing away of a small coal from a camp-fire — which innocent incendiary is left to commence the work of destruction, because unobserved. For two days I remained encamped on this island, in LEAVES THE ISLAND CAMP. 75 the lake of fire. The flames had then spent their de- structive force around me, as far as I could see. On all sides desolation appeared. The mountains were covered with blackness, while here and there a smoke and a blaze upon them, were still visible. The level bottom was strewn with ashes, among which could be seen, the half-burnt carcasses of wolves and antelopes ; and there, too, a fierce lord of the mountain — an enormous grizzly bear, lay, partly consumed by the side of a black-tailed deer. On the morning of the third day after encamping on the prairie, I determined to advance northward. I first walked a considerable distance upon the prairie, and as- certained that the mules could travel without scorching their feet — then adjusting my packs, and left the " island camp," as I had christened the spot of safety. My ob- ject was to advance as rapidly as possible, in order to reach pasture, as my mules were beginning to weaken. I believe if they had not obtained food within a short time, they would have failed me entirely. I was fortunate. About the middle of the afternoon, I reached the end of the desolate tract, with all its gloomy horrors. It was on the bank of a clear stream. At this point the wind seemed to have slightly changed the direction of the flames. Upon the other side I saw green grass, and shady trees, and there I was happy to encamp. An an- telope which I had picked out of a small herd near the 76 pike's peak. foot of the mountains, furnished some luscious meat for my evening meal ; but I could not get within rifle-shot of any other game before dark. At dawn the next morning, I resumed my march for the trapping region. Yet I did not reach the famous Bayou Salada until noon the day after that. On the banks of one of the small clear streams which pass through this beautiful valley, I encamped, preparatory to com- mencing trapping operations. A mountaineer's camp is always picturesque. Mine resembled those commonly constructed. I cleared a space about ten feet square, on a gentle slope, about twenty yards from the edge of the stream, and put up a breakwind of skins stretched on poles. On the right of this rude substitute for a tent, I erected 1 meat-frame, consisting of two upright poles and a cross- piece, high above the reach of wolves or bears, and on that hung my provisions. A small skin sheltered my ammunition and rifle on one side of my camp, but I had no roof. A pile of wood was ranged on the outside of my camp. The Bayou Salada, or the Salt Valley, is remarkable for its wildly beautiful scenery. On all sides it is walled in by lofty and rugged mountains. Pike's Peak, snow- covered, towering above all like a ghostly sentinel. The principal stream is the Fontaine qui Bouille, or Boiling Spring ri"er, which in the valley is not more than forty THE BEAVER REGION 77 feet in ■width. Gentle slopes of green, and patches of ivoodland appear in the vicinity of the dancing, glimmer- ing streams, and contrast boldly with the jutting cliffs and yawning chasms of the mountains. The Indians have fought many a bloody battle for the possession of this splendid hunting and trapping region, but the Yutas have generally succeeded in maintaining it against their foes. I was intimately acquainted with these Indians, and having no fear that they would interrupt my pursuits, I imrdediately set about preparations for trapping. The beaver was once found in every part of North America, from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, but has now gradually retired from the encroachment and the perse- cutions of civilised man, and is met with only in the far. Far West, on the tributaries of the great rivers, and the mountain valleys in the great chain of the Rocky Moun- tains. On the waters of the Platte and' Arkansas they are still numerous, and within the last few years have in- ,creased considerably in numbers ; but the best trapping- ground now is on the streams running through the Bayou Salada, and the Old and New Parks, all of which are elevated mountain valleys. The habits of the beaver present quite a study to the naturalist, and they are certainly the most sagaciously instinctive of all quadrupeds. Their dams afford a lesson to the engineer, their houses a study to the architect of 78 HABITS OF THE BEAVER, comfortable abodes, while their unremitting labor and indefatigable industry are models to be followed by the working man. The lodge of the beaver is generally ex- cavated in the bank of the stream, the entrance being invariably under water ; but not unfrequently, where the banks are flat, they construct lodges in the stream itself, of a conical form, of limbs and branches of trees woven together and cemented with mud. For the purpose of forming dams, for the necessary timber for their lodges, or for the bark which they store for their winter's supply of food, the beaver often fells a tree eight or ten inches in diameter, throwing it, with the skill of an expert woods- man, in any direction he pleases, always selecting a tree above stream, in order that the logs may be carried down with it to their destination. The log is then chopped into small lengths, and pushing them into the water, the beaver steers them to the lodge or dam. These trees are as cleanly cut as they could be by a sharp axe, the goug- ing in furrows made by the animal's strong teeth cutting into the very centre of the trunk, the notch being as smooth as sawed wood. With his broad tail, which is twelve or fourteen inches long, and above four in breadth, and covered with a thick scaly skin, the beaver plasters his lodge, thus making it perform all the offices of a hand. They say that, when tho beaver's tail becomes dry, the animal dies, but whe- HABITS OP THE BEAVEK. 7i? ther this is the case or not, I have myself seen the beaver return to the water and plunge his tail into the stream, and then resume his labor with renewed vigor ; and I have also seen them, with their bodies on the bank, tlmmping the water with their tails with a most comical perseverance. The female seldom produces more thau three kittens at a birth, but I know an instance where one was killed, with young, having no less than eleven in her. They live to a considerable age, and I once ate the tail of an " old man" beaver whose head was perfectly gray with age, and his beard was of the same venerable hue, notwith- standing which his tail was as tender as a young racoon. The kittens are as playful as their namesakes of the feline race, and it is highly delightful to see an old one with grotesque gravity inciting her young to gambol about her, while she herself is engaged about some household work. The work of tracing and trapping the beaver has many curious features. I pursued the usual method, which I had learned from my father — than whom a more success- ful trapper never appeared among the mountains. I fol- lowed the stream, on the banks of which I had encamped, keeping a sharp watch for " sign." If I saw a prostrate cotton-wood tree, I examined if it was the work of the beaver — whether " thrown" for the purpose of food, or to dam the stream. I also examined the tracks of the bea- 80 BEAVER MEDICINE. ver on the mud or the sand under the bant, and if the "sign" was fresh, set the trap in the run of the animal,, hiding it under -water, and attaching it by a stout chain to a picket driven in the bank, or to a bush or tree. A " float-stick," was then made fast to the trap, by a cord a few feet long, which, if the animal carried away the trap, floated on the water, and pointed out its position. The trap was baited with the "medicine" — which is prepared from the substance called castor, obtained from the glandu- lous pouches of the male animal. The contents of five or six castor bags are mixed with a nutmeg, twelve or fifteen cloves, and thirty grains of cinnamon in fine powder, and then the whole is stirred up with as much whiskey as wiF give it the consistence of mixed mustard. This prepare tion must be kept closely corked up, and in four or fir i days, the odor becomes more powerful. As I had oftrn observed, this "medicine," smeared upon the bits of wood, with which the traps are baited, will attract the beaver from a great distance. Wishing to make a close inspection, the animal puts its legs into the trap, and is caught. When I discovered a beaver lodge, I set the trap at the edge of the dam, at the point where the animal passes from deep to shoal water, and always beneath the sur- face. Early in the morning, I mounted young Oregon, and rode out to examine my traps. When successful, I TRAPPING BEAVER. 81 took the beaver to camp — skinned them and packed the tails, -which are a great dainty, carefully away. I then stretched the skins over hoops, scraped off the flesh and fatty substance, and left them to dry. When dry, I folded them into square sheets, the fur being turned inward ; and about a dozen made a bundle ready for transportation. I had cheering success, both in trapping and hunting, and while my camp was well supplied with meat, I stowed away some beautiful skins. Occasionally I saw Indian sign, and was driven to extreme caution in my expedi- tions through the valley. However, no red men appeared ; and I spent two weeks of successful hunting and exqui- site enjoyment of all the luxuries of a mountain camp. CHAPTER XL ARRIVAL OF JOE BLANEY. KILL AN ARAPAHO. START FOR THE RENDEZVOUS. I DID not expect that my friend Joe Blaney could reach me within three weeks. Therefore I was astonished one clear evening to see the well-known mules emerge from a grove on the banks of the stream, a short distance from my camp. Joe was mounted. His thin, gaunt face bore the marks of his terrible battle, and he looked rather weakly. But he dismounted easily, and as he did so, I gave him three lusty cheers for a welcome. He seemed to be in very good spirits, for he replied by a loud cock-a-doodle doo. "Not gone under yet, Percy, my boy," he exclaimed. "Not exactly, but you look a kind of streaked," I re- plied. " However, throw oiF your packs, while I make camp room, and then we can talk and eat at the same time. There's first-rate pasture for the mules, and they look as if they wanted a taste of that sort of thing. (82) job's account of his treatment. ■ 83 Within a few minutes, I had extended the breakwind, and Joe had stowed his packs within, on the side opposite to that on which mine were piled. The mules were tied to pickets near my own, and Fondle, my pretty pet, played among them as if it recognised old acquaintances. Joe then took a scat beside the fire, and as the meat was simmering, we talked. " Well, Joe, now that you are here, and almost ready for another fight, tell me how your wounds are healing, and what has happened to you since I left you in the Shoshonee camp." "Just so ; but eook the meat quickly, for I feel wolf- ish," said the gallant hunter. " The Shoshonee squaws were kind to me and no mistake. They attended to me as if I had been their child. Big Tree, the chief, took almost as good care of my mules as if they had been his own ; but he had a great deal of trouble in preventing his young men from stealing skins from my pack. I suppose you saw the fire ?" " Saw it ? Yes, indeed, and made a narrow escape from it," I replied. " Well, for a time we thought the blaze was going to sweep over the Yampah to our camp, and the Shoshonees made all the noises that Indians can make, and you know they are not slow. But Big tree saw that the fire could not reach the lodges, and, although he let the party pre- 84 A FEAST. , pare for a run, he kept them on the ground. Late at night, we saw the course of the fire had somewhat changed, and Big Tree then ordered the party to move slowly down the Yampah. Four hig braves carried me in a litter. After moving, I guess about a mile, the camp was pitched again, and every body owned that we were safe. .1 tell you, Percy, I was glad to be put down again, for the shaking of those ugly gashes in my breast didn't feel the most comfortable, no way. Well, I remained in camp for about a week, before I was able to walk about ; and then I frightened the young Shoshonees. After that I gained strength so fast, owing to the natural healthi- ness of my meat, that I started three days ago for the Bayou, intending to travel slowly, and here I got to-night, without any accident. Is the deer done ? Just so. I'll take something like a hunk this time. Help yourself, Percy. How's the beaver, and where's the Injuns ?" " Look at the skins. Trapping in the Bayou was never better to my knowledge," I replied. " Indians are about, but whether they are Yutas, Shoshonees, or Arapahoes, I can't say." "Let them look out, Old Joe will be in trim for them shortly. But we must make good packs of beaver this time. Smart show that you have already." We made a hearty meal, enjoyed the luxury of tho pipe — and then stretched ourselves for repose. KILLS AN AEAPAHO. 85 The next morning, Joe and I rode out together to ex- amine my traps, and to set some additional ones. He had more traps than I ; but we agreed to make an equal divi- sion of the- results of our labor and skill. Within a week afterwards, Joe had recovered his strength. and activity. We were as successful as could be expected in trapping the beaver, and lived on the " fat of the valley." Our only cause of uneasiness was the frequent "sign" of Indians, whom we believed to be lurking around in small parties. One morning, as I was about to examine a trap near a dam, a considerable distance from camp, I was startled by a sound resembling the fixing of an arrow to a bow-string. I turned quickly, and luckily, for upon the instant, an arrow struck me in the thigh, and I beheld an Arapaho about to repeat the attempt upon my life. Regardless of the wound, I raised my rifle and fired ; and when the smoke cleared away, I saw the savage lying, gathered up in a heap, on the ground. I was at that time a moun- taineer in heart and habit. I lifted up the head, seized the scalp-lock, and in a moment the reeking scalp was tied to my belt — a savage trophy. I then turned my attention to my wound. The arrow had pierced ihe fleshy part of the thigh clean through, and I had to cut off the head before I could remove the weapon. The blood then flowed freely ; but I bound my legging tightly around it, mounted my mule, and rode rapidly back to fe 86 START FOR THE RENDEZVOUS. camp. Al'out an hour afterwards, Joe came in with three beavers. He was a little alarmed at the sight of blood ; but he quickly dressed the wound, and applied himself to rendering my position as comfortable as possible under the circumstances. But with all his attention, my wound was very painful, and it was a whole week before I was able to attend to my traps. We continued to trap in the Bayou until the early part of October. We lived well, saw nothing more of the Indians in our neighborhood, and packed away a fine lot of skins. At the time mentioned, we broke up our camp, and started for the trapper's rendezvous known as " Brown's Hole." CHAPTER XII. LIFE AT THE TRAPPERS' RENDEZVOUS ADVENTU- ROUS ENGAGEMENT WITH AN ENGLISH GEN- TLEMAN. " Brown's Hole," is an inclosed valley, on Green river, one of the affluents of the Colorado. It is surrounded with lofty mountains, ■which cause it to look much smaller that it is in reality. It is well-wooded, and abounds in every variety of game. This valley is a favorite wintering-ground of the mountaineers. Here they bring the results of their toil and endurance. A trading station and a considerable number of shanties, or lodges, make up a little village, which, however, disappears with the snow. We arrived at " Brown's Hole" in good time, and in excellent condition. A trader was already there, with an extensive store of powder, lead, tobacco, and ardent spirits, and various other articles in demand among the (87) 88 TRADING AT THE RENDEZVOUS. mountaineers. Several trapping bands had already ar- rived. Singly, and in bands, numbering from two to ten, the trappers dropped into the rendezvous ; some with many pack-loads, others with greater or less quantity, and more than one on foot, having lost his animals and peltry by Indian thieving. Here were soon congregated many mountaineers, whose names are famous in the history of the Far West. Fitzpatrick and Hatcher, and old Bill Williams, well known leaders of the trapping parties, soon arrived with their bands. ,Sublette came in with his men from Yellow Stone, and many of Wyeth's New En- glanders were there. Chabonard, with his half-breeds, Wah-keitchas all, brought his peltries from the lower country ; and a half-a-dozen Shawnee and Delaware In- dians, with a Mexican from Taos, one Marcelline, a fine strapping fellow, the best trapper and hunter in the moun- tains, and ever first in the fight. Here, too, arrived the " Bourgeois" traders of the " North West Company," with their superior equipments, ready to meet their trappers, and purchase the beaver at an equitable value ; and soon the trade opened, and the encampment assumed a busy appearance. The beaver sold well, six dollars being the price paid a pound in goods, but the latter, as usual, were fixed at very exorbitant rates. Joe and I sold our stock of skins for about a thousand dollars ; but the quantity of goods LIFE AT THE EENDEZVOUS. 89 received was really worth about half that sum. The cimaron was greatly admired by the trappers, and all praised my skill in training the animal. The principal bidder at the station — a shrewd Yankee — purchased it for what he called a hundred dollars' worth of powder and lead. I was glad to get rid of Fondle at any price, for although it was a pretty pet, it cost me a great deal of care to attend to it properly. Still, as the trader led the animal away, I could not help a feeling of regret. The trade having been completed, the mountaineers plunged into all the dissipation of the station. Drinking, gambling, and rioting, werp almost the only occupations of the day. The property so hardly earned was rapidly spent. Men could be seen in all stages of drunkenness—- from riotous elevation to beastly intoxication. Joe, who had long been accustomed to regard these scenes as things of course, and even necessary to a social existence, en- gaged in them, as freely as the rest. I had an aversion for them. The counsels of my mother were constantly in my mind. On this occasion I was saved from the in- fluence of temptation by a circumstance which effected a complete change in my mode of life. There was an English sportsman at the station — a gen- tlemen of fortune, named Robert Barrill, with whom I managed to scrape an acquaintance. He was very intel- ligent and agreeable, and a daring and successful sports- 90 MR. barrill's proposal. man. Having leisure, fortune, and no encumbrances, he had visited America to engage in the exciting and perilous sports of the prairies — a kind of life he preferred to that of indolent ease. He expressed himself greatly delighted with hunting on the plains, and narrated a number of adventures, as we enjoyed a social pipe. He said, how- ever, that the drunken and riotous behavior of the moun- tain men at the station shocked him. One reason for his singling me out for an especial friend was that I kept aloof from their dissipation, and strove to save something of the profits of my hunting and trapping expeditions. I had spent about two weeks at the station, when, one evening, Mr. Barrill came into my lodge, and sat down for a talk. He said he had an important proposal to make. He was greatly pleased with my character, al- though he had known me but a very short time. He had no urgent business to call him back to England, and he designed to try sporting in various parts of the world. He wanted a trusty and experienced companion — had ample means to defray the expenses of both — and if I would accompany him in his travels and hunting expedi- tiuns, he would take care that I was well provided in every respect. The novelty of the proposal took me by sur- prise ; but I was rather pleased with the idea. However, I requested a day to consider. I reflected upon my con- dition — an able-bodied young hunter, without encum- joe's advice. 91 brances of any kind. Then I thought of the curious countries, strange people, and, above all, the rare sports, I should see. I could not doubt the truth of what Mr. Barrill informed in regard to his means — for in our short acquaintance, he had shown ample proof of his sincerity. Then I sought the advice of Joe Blaney, although the brain of that veteran mountaineer was, during most of the time, lamentably foggy. However, Joe said that if I rejected such an offer, I would deserved to be "chawed up alive by a grizzly." Before the day had elapsed, I was enlisted in the service of a universal sportsman, and had begun preparations for a start from the station. CHAPTER XIII A JOURNEY AND HUNT THROUGH NEW MEXICO. START FOR SOUTH AMERICA. Mr. Bareill seemed very much pleased when informed that I had resolved to accompany him in his distant ex- peditions. He immediately gave me several valuable presents — among them being a handsome bullet-pouch, a powder-flask, and a finely mounted revolver. My rifle was equal to any to be seen at the station. Mr. Barrill then informed me that he intended to proceed to South America, to try hunting in the forests of Brazil, and upon the vast plains called the Pampas. After much delibe- ration, he had decided to journey through Xew Mexico, by way of the Rio Grand and the Gulf of Mexico, to New Orleans, where passage could be secured to Eio Janeiro. This arrangement was satisfactory to me. I merely sug- gested that we should take the vale of Taos, that Para- dise of mountaineers, on our way through Xew Mexico. (92) TRADE WITH THE YUTA INDIANS. 93 Mr. Barrill had a fine equipment for travelling through the wildernees. He had four excellent mules — and one swift horse, elegantly caparisoned. His packs comprised some remarkable trophies, two or three beaver traps, some rare articles of provision, the best of ammunition, and a number of small tools for which use enough may be found far away frotn the settlements. Leaving the station amid the drunken cheers of the mountaineers, we sat out upon our great sporting expedi- tion. We travelled leisurely, keeping a sharp look-out for game. We passed Greenhorn creek without meeting with any remarkable adventure. On Huerfano, or Or- phan creek, so called from an isolated hutte, which stands on a prairie near the stream, we fell in with a party of Yuta Indians. They seemed very friendly, but I advised Mr. Barrill to get out of their way as quickly as possible, as they were likely enough to entertain treacherous de- signs. He traded with them, however, for a few deer skins, for the dressing of which they are justly celebrated. We then pushed forward, and camped under the moun- tain on Oak creek, in a strong position, which the two of us could have maintained against a host. At this point is a tolerable pass through the mountains, where a break occurs in a range, whence they gradually decrease in magnitude until they meet the sierras of Mex- ico , which connect the two mighty chains of the Andea 94 PRAIIUE SCENERY. and the Rocky Mountains. From the summit of tlie divid- ing ridge, to the eastward, a view is had of the vast sea cf prairie which stretches away from the base of the moun- tains in dreary barrenness, for nearly a thousand miles, until it meets the fertile valley of the great Missouri. Over this boundless expanse, nothing breaks the uninter- rupted solitude of the view. Not a tree or atom of foliage relieves the eye ; for the lines of scattered timber, which belt the streams running from the mountains, are lost in the shadow of their stupendous height, and beyond this nothing is seen but the bare surface of the rolling prairie. In no other part of the chain are the grand characteristics of the Far West more strikingly displayed than from this pass. The mountains here rise, on the eastern side, ab- ruptly from the plain, and the view over the great prairies is not therefore obstructed by intervening ridges. To the westward the eye sweeps over the broken spurs which stretch from the main range in every direction ; while distant peaks, for the most part snow-covered, are seen at intervals rising isolated above the range. On all sides the scene is wild and dismal. Crossing by this pass, we followed the Yuta trail, skirt- ing a pine-covered ridge, in which countless herds of an- telope, tame as sheep, were feeding. Numerous creeks well timbered with oak, pine, and cedar, intersect it, and giime of all kinds was there abundant. Mr. Barril] proved MEET WITH OLD FRIENDS. 95 himself an excellent shot, and a hunter of unflinching courage.. Yet he frankly acknowledged that I could learn Lim much in regard to the methods of getting within rifle-shot of game. Each day exalted the character of this gentleman in my eyes, and, upon his part, he omitted no opportunity of showing that I had his esteem. His conversation was full of instruction. How could I regret having exchanged such company as that of honest, but narrow-minded, Joe Blaney, for that of Mr. Barrill ? On the eleventh day after leaving Orphan creek, we struck the Taos va,lley settlement on Arroyo Hondo, and pushed on at once to the village of Fernandez, sometimes called Taos. As we dashed through the village, the doors of the adobe houses were thrown open, and numerous dark-eyed beauties appeared, each smoking a cigarito. All replied to our salute, " Adios Americanos !" believing us both to be American mountaineers. I was well known in the valley, having visited it on two or three occasions, in company with a party of mountaineers. We rode to ihe house of an old mountaineer, who had long been re- cognised as the entertainer of the hunters when they vi- sited the Taos valley, and were somewhat agreeably sur- prised to find two stalwart trappers from the Yellow Stone stopping there. They gave us a hearty welcome, invited ua to a fandango, which they had arranged for that evening, and seemed exceedingly desirous of securing our g-iod 96 IflGHT AT A FANDANGO. vill. Mr. Barrill seldom shunned sociability, and as I happened to know the mountaineers to be honest, true- hearted men, I recommended them to his favor. The fandango came off in the great hall of the Alcalde, Dn the same evening. Mr. Barrill and I were promptly on the spot. My friend enjoyed the scene amazingly, and danced and frolicked with the girls, in a style which none of the hunters, so noted for their "sprees," could equal. On one occasion, a mountaineer, seeing a jealous Mexican interfere with his zealous courtship, knocked him down. Knives were out in an instant, and a bloody affray might have occurred if Mr. Barrill had not inter- fered. He spoke mildly and persuasively, but also with an air of authority, which had its effect. Order was restored and the dancing resumed, and continued till the peep of day, when Mr. Barrill and I returned to the old moun- taineer's house, more fatigued than ever we were after a day's hunt. AVe stopped one day at Taos to rest, and then resumed our journey, intending to follow the course of the Bio Grande to the Gulf of Mexico, more for novelty than for any other purpose. Yet we found that this route was about as dull and monotonous as any tha.t we had ever travelled. We passed through a number of small towns, the inhabitants of which were remarkable for nothing but gqnnlor and treacherous cowardice. Most of the Indians A NAVAJO CHIEF. 97 we met on the route were timid and degraded. But we heard that parties of the bold Apaches and Navajos had penetrated but recently to the settlements, and committed many outrages. The Navajos are the most powerful of all the Indian enemies of the New Mexicans. They ai e a handsome, intelligent, daring people, far superior in every respect to the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico. On arriving at Santa Fe, the capital of the territory, I had an opportunity of seeing a Navajo chief, who had been captured by a large party of New Mexicans, while recklessly exposing himself in an attack. lie was a fine, manly looking fellow ; but the ill treatment of his captors threatened to reduce him to a most wretched condition. In spite of the cruelties of which he had been guilty, I was compelled to pity him. In descending the valley of the Rio Grande, we found excellent pasture for our animals ; but the game was scarce, and not of the most inviting kinds. Mr. Barrill repeatedly expressed the wish that he had determined upon another route. At length, after weeks of dull tra- vellin"-, we approached the Gulf of Mexico on the east side of the Rio Grande. At Point Isabel, we found a schooner, about to sail for Galvezton, and Mr. Barrill immediately secured a passage for us both. I had never been upon the sea before. My sensations, as the schooner made sail from Point Isabel, were so novel 9 98 SAIL FOR RIO JANEIRO. that 1 must have behaved very strangely. The view of the boundless level of the prairie seemed nothing to the sight of the vast and apparently shoreless sea. We had some rough weather ; but having a stomach of leather I did not experience what is called sea-sickness. At Gal- ezton, the shief port of Texas, and a very bustling town, we took a SvP.amer for New Orleans, the great port of the Southern St& ;es. Mr. Barrill and myself were too anxious to be off to tLi sporting regions to waste much time in that gay city We engaged passage in a large ship bound for Rio Janeiro, and soon afterwards, the shores fif my native laad faded from my view. CHAPTER XrV, ARRIVAL AT RIO. HUNTING IN THE FORESTS OF BRAZIL. I WILL not fatigue the reader with the monotonous do- tail of the voyage to Rio Janeiro. In spite of the enter- taining company of Mr. Barrill, and rather a lively set of passengers, I was heartily glad when the captain an- nounced that we were approaching the beautiful bay of the Brazilian port. And when we entered it, I was in ecstacies. Rio Janeiro, the capital of the province of the same name, may now, perhaps, rank as the largest and most flourishing city of South America. It lies on the western side of a bay, seventy or eighty miles in circumference, forming one of the most spacious and secure receptacles for shipping in the world. It is studded with upwards of one hundred islands ; the ships of all nations are seen passing through its channels, and innumerable little boats are seen flitting about. The shore rices immediately into (99) 100 RTO JANEIRO. green and woody hills, thickly planted with villas and convents, and behind which lofty mountains shoot up their heads in the most picturesque and romantic forms. These objects compose the most enchanting scene that can be imagined. It struck a late traveller as greatly resembling the Trosachs at the entrance of Loch Katrine. The town is tolerably well built, the houses being three or four stories high, though the streets are rather -narrow. Two of them extend the whole length, with new and broad streets strik ing off from them ; and there are several handsome squares The town is well supplied with water, by excellent aque- ducts. The environs of Rio Janeiro are delightful in the extreme, the valleys and sides of the hills being covered with trees, shrubs, and creeping plants of peculiar beauty. The bay of Bottafogo, and the sides of the rude and lofty mountains called the Corcovado, are the spots most par- ticularly celebrated. The king has a rural palace, called San Christovao, of light and pavilion-like architecture, and which from its site has a much more pleasing effect than that in the city. The arsenal, the dock yard, and marine establishments are on a small island within the harbor. Mr. Barrill was exceedingly delighted with the city and its magnificent harbor. He had letters of introduc- tion to the British consul, and a number of other distin guished persons, who gave us a handsome entertainment. FORESTS OF BRAZIL. 101 But we were anxious to pursue our grand purpose, and to be abroad in the forests of Brazil — admiring their beauty and vast variety of game. With much difficulty we effected an engagement with a native of Rio Janeiro, who had travelled and hunted in the interior of the country, and who was therefore considered a reliable guide. He spoke English almost as well as Portuguese and Spanish — the chief languages of the country — and seemed to be brave and intelligent. We were well provided with horses and mules ; but the guide insisted on our purchasing three fine horses from the pluins of Buenos Ayrcs. The cheap- ness of these animals astonished Mr. Barrill as well as myself. New spurs and heavy cloaks, or serapas, com- pleted our equipment. About a week after our arrival at Rio, we set off, in the best of spirits, for the interior of the country. Yet it was several days before we left the plantations of sugar, cotton, and coffee, behind us. Dense and impenetrable forests cover a great part of the interior of Brazil, and exhibit a luxuriance of vegeta- tion almost peculiar to the central regions of South Ame- rica. The infinite variety of tints which these woods dis- ])lay, give them an aspect wholly different from those of Europe. Each of the lofty sons of the forest has an effect distinct from that of the rest. The brilliant white of the silver tree, the brown head of the Mangou, the purple flowers of the Brazil wood, the laburnums, the deep red fungus, 9* 102 FORESTS OF BRAZIL. and the carmine-colored lichens, which invest the trunks and bark, all mingle in brilliant confusion, forming groups finely contrasted and diversified. The gigantic height of the palms, with their varying crowns, give to these forests an incomparable majesty. All these are interwoven with a net work of creeping and climbing plants, so close as to form round the tree a verdant wall, which the eye is un- able to penetrate ; and many of the flowering species, that climb up the trunks, spread forth and present the ap- pearance of parterres hanging in the air. These woods are not a silent scene, unless during the deepest heat of noon, but- are crowded and rendered vocal by the greatest variety of the animal tribes. Birds of the most singular forms and most superb plumage flutter through the bushes. The toucan rattles his large hollow bill ; the busy orioles creep out of their long pendant nests ; the amorous thrush, the chattering manakin, the full tones of the nightingale, amuse the hunter ; while the humming birds, rivalling in lustre diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires, hover round the brightest flowers. Myriads of the most brilliant bee- tles buzz in the air ; and the gayest butterflies, rivalling m splendor the colors of the rainbow, flutter from flower to flower. Meanwhile the beautiful, but sometimes dan- gerous, race of lizards and serpents, exceeding in splen- dor the enamel of the flowers, glide out of the leaves and hoUows of the trees. Troops of squirrels and monkeys lean ANIMALS OF SOUTH AMERICA, 103 from bough to bough, and large bodies of ants, issuing from their nests, creep along the ground. These immense forests are rich in timber of every description, for use and ornament, suited either for carpentry, ship building, dye- ing, or furniture. That kind specially called Brazil wood is particularly celebrated for the beautiful red dye which it produces. Our guide informed us that the forests were full of ra- pacious animals, among which he mentioned the tiger-cat, the hyona, the saratu, an animal about the size of a fox, but far more ferocious, the jaguar or South American tiger, the sloth, and the porcupine ; that the planters were much annoyed by ounces ; that antas, or tapirs, and wild hogs, were abundant. The tapir is the largest of the native quadrupeds. It is timid and harmless, feeding like a horse. It is amphibious, and capable of remaining a long time at the bottom of lakes and rivers, without coming up to respire. When killed, its flesh is generally eaten, and difiers but little from the ox. We had not long journeyed through the forest, before the keen eye of the guide detected a huge tapir, feeding at a considerable distance on our right. He said that if we would get between it and the river, the course of which we were following, it might easily be taken. We dis- mounted, tied our horses to trees, and crept in different directions towards the stream. Mr. Barrill happened to 104 HUNTING TUE TAl'IE. show himself above the bushes, before the guide and my- self could get in position. He fired, but missed, and the animal plunged into the water and disappeared. By the advice of the guide, we then stood upon the bank of the stream, about thirty yards apart. The opposite bank ■was within rifle-shot, and we naturally expected that the tapir would strive to escape by swimming to that point. "We stood patiently in shooting position for full ten mi- nutes, when the animal was seen slowly ascending the bank. Instantly two balls were driven into him, and he fell backwards into the water. The next difficulty was to secure the game. The stream was too deep to ford. But with a rapidity that startled me, the guide constructed a stout raft of small palm ' trunks, bound together with vines, and with one of our camping-poles pushed it across. Then, tying the snout of the tapir to the raft, he towed the carcass in triumph to our side, upon which we gave him a round of cheers. The animal proved to be a male of the largest size. It was a clumsy looking beast. We cut off such portions of the meat as the guide recommended, and made a hearty meal in the forest. The flesh is very much inferior to that of the buffalo, but still juite palatable. The next day we had another tapir hunt, in which we ascertained the remarkable peculiarities of this animal. When pursued, it ran awkwardly, leaving a broad trail, HUNTING THE JAGUAR. 105 and in a circle, so that y/e had but little difficulty in bringing it to the ground. We shot a number of wild cattle out of a herd, near the edge of a broad and open valley, and thus obtained an abundance of fresh meat ; but after a week's travel we were somewhat disappointed in the sport aiforded by the game of these forests. Mr. Barrill expressed his disappointment, and I agreed with him. After some discussion with the guide, we deter- mined to return to Eio, and then proceed to Buenos Ayres. The guide insisted on the exciting character of the Brazilian sport, but we had experienced the thrilling excitement of hunting on the prairie, and gave him a very decided expression of our non-assent. On the third day of our return journey, however, we had a taste of peril. About daybreak, I detected an animal prowling near the camp, which the guide pro- nounced a large jaguar. Our horses and mules evinced their knowledge of the proximity of danger by neighing, snorts, and starts. A moment more, and one of them might have been writhing beneath the claws of the fierce monster. The guide advanced cautiously to the attack ; and just as the jaguar was about to spring upon the nearest horse, fired. The shot was efiective, and the animal, with a horrid growl, limped away through the bushes. All gave chase — Mr. Barrill saw an opportunity for a shot in the rear, and fired, when the jaguar fell back 106 LEAVE RIO JANEIRO. upon his haunches. It then turned, and, wounded as it ■was, ran rapidly towards us. The guide sprang aside;, and Mr. Barrill was seized by the leg. At the same mo- ment, a ball from my rifle, sent the jaguar to the arms of death. Mr. Barrill had a narrow escape. His leg was severely bitten, and he could scarcely stand upon it. Yet this enthu- siastic sportsman could not help admiring the beautiful skin of the monster — yellow, spotted with brown and black — and said it was a valuable addition to his packs. The guide attended tj the wound in a manner which secured the sufferer almost immediate ease. We then resumed our journey, and within three days reached Rio Janeiro again. Our sporting expedition had not been satisfactory, but we agreed that the forests of Brazil were so magnificent that they well repaid the visit of the lover of the splendors of nature. CHAPTER XV. BUENOS AYRES. HUNTING ON THE PAMPAS. After getting rid of our Brazilian guide, Avho n'as rather troublesome in the matter of remuneration, we ob- tained passage on board of a small British barque, secured all our effects, including horses and mules, the same transportation, and sailed for Buenos Ayres. The voyage was short and pleasant. After we entered the mouth of the La Plata, we had a fine view of Monte Video, and the varied scenery of the shores. Still, the bay of Rio Ja- neiro was far more beautiful, and, after viewing it, I could not feel an extraordinary delight in the scenery of the La Plata. At length we came in sight of the city of Buenos Ayres. It is situated on the southern bank of the river, about two hundred miles from its mouth. Being raised about twenty feet above the water, and presenting the spires of numerous churches and convents, it makes (107) 108 CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. rather a fine appearance. There were a large number of vessels in the harbor, giving an idea of the extensive trade of the city. When we landed, we found the wharves covered with heaps of hides, the chief article of export. People in every variety of costume, from that of an official dignitary to that of the Gauchos of the Pampas, and the tow trowsers of the toiling negro were to be seen ; some bustling about, and others walking along leisurely, as if this world had no cares for them. Farther up in the town, at least two- thirds of those who were in the streets were mounted on horses, some of which were noble-looking animals. The houses were built of brick, white-washed, and with flat roofs, over which a pleasant and even extensive pro- menade might have been taken. The windows were pro- tected by iron bars, causing each mansion to resemble a lock-up house, and forming, indeed, a complete fortifica- tion. Rosas, then the iron-hearted tyrant of Buenos Ayres, resided in a fortress near the river, whi^h had been erected for the old Spanish viceroys. In the centre of the city, is the Plaza, or great square, common to all towns erected by the Spaniards. The houses surrounding it were very handsome. Besides a splendid cathedral, the city could then boast of a number of fine churches and monasteries. The environs had a rather monotonous aspect. THE GUACUOS OF THE PAMPAS. 109 Mr. Barrill secured lodgings, at a tolerable inn, about equal in entertainment to the lower class of hotels in St, Louis. His first object was to secure information in re- gard to the dangers of the Pampas, so as to be prepared for them. The next was to obtain the service of a native acquainted with the country. He first applied to the landlord, but that personage either had not the requisite intelligence, or was unable to communicate it satisfacto- rily ; so my patron visited the British consul, who gave ample answers to all the inquiries of his countrymen, and recommended a trustworthy Gaucho, who had been in his service, named Joaquin Bunoz. The reader may very naturally inquire who are the people called Gauchos. They inhabit the wide surface of the Pampas, and appropriate the herds that roam over them. Some travellers have designated them as downright savages. But they are often of respectable birth, and ren- dered estimable by their courage, intelligence and integrity. The Gaucho is at once the most active and the most in- dolent of mortals. He will scour the country whole days at full gallop, breaking wild horses, or chasing the jaguar or ostrich ; but once alighted and seated on the skeleton of a horse's head, nothing can induce him to move. He considers it a degradation to set his foot to the ground ; so that, notwithstanding a general yigor almost preterna- tural, the lower limbs are weak and bowed, and he ia 10 110 JOAQUIN BUNOZ. incapable of walking to any distance. His dwelling is a mud cottage, with one apartment, and so swarming with insects, that in summer the whole family, wrapped in skins, sleep in the open air. All round is a desert, with the exception of the corral, or circular spot, inclosed by stakes, into which the cattle are driven. Neither grain nor vegetables are cultivated, nor is the cow made to yield milk. Beef is the only food, and it is roasted, or rather twisted, on large spits, stuck in the floor, in a slanting di- rection, so as to overhang the fire, a twist being from time to time given, to expose all sides of the meat in suc- cession. A large number of the Gauchos are robbers, who are only daunted by a show of superior force. Joaquin Bunoz had all the qualities of the Gaucho in perfection. He was short and thick-set, with bowed legs. His face was frank, fearless, and intelligent. His hair was long, black, and straight, in keeping with his pierc- ing black eyes and heavy moustache. His costume re- sembled greatly that of the Californian muleteer, but was much more gaudily decorated. He prided himself upon three things ; the rich saddle and bridle of his horse ; his skill in throwing the lasso, and his luck at gaming — the leading vice throughout South America. By his advice, we armed ourselves as completely as possible — having a rifle a piece in reserve. He condemned our horses, but Mr. Barrill thought proper tc retain them. START FOB, THE PAMPAS. Ill We started ■nith thrilling liopes of sport for the Pam- pas — those vast plains of which we had heard so much. Buenos Ayres was soon left far behind, and we found our selves riding across a plain, which, as far as the eye could reach, appeared to be covered with clover and thistles. Joaquin informed us that the plain continued of this cha racter for about one hundred and eighty miles from Bue- nos Ayres. There are no regular roads across the Pampas, although they are so much travelled. There are carriage routes, upon which mud huts, called posts, are stationed, about twenty miles apart. But the country is so inter- sected with rivers, streams, and marshes, that progress is difficult in any kind of a vehicle. Joaquin contrived to keep us within a few miles of the most common route. The advantage of this was that we were seldom far from the huts of the Gauchos, who might have aided us against the attacks of robbers or Indians. The latter are very warlike, and have a hereditary hos- tility to the Gauchos, and, indeed, to all whites. They even excel the Gauchos in horsemanship, which is the highest praise that can be given them. As they gene- rally go abroad in large parties these attacks are greatly dreaded. During our first day upon the Pampas, we saw immense herds of horses and cattle, but as Mr. Barrill and I had Dehcld the buffalos upon the prairies, we were not so much 112 LASSOOING WILD AN.MALS, astonished as our Gaucho guide desired us to be. Joaquin easily detected those which belonged to particular Gauchos by the marks upon them ; and these we took care to avoid, But enough remained to furnish abundant exercise for the lasso. The skill displayed by Joaquin in throwing the lasso astonished me, and yet I considered myself an adept in using it. Our lassos were made of strong platted thongs of green hide, about forty feet in length, with an iron ring at one end, forming a running noose, the other end being fixed to the saddle-girth. When Joaquin was about to seize an animal, he whirled the noose with a por- tion of the thong horizontally around his head, holding the rest of the lasso coiled up in his left hand ; and when near enough to the object, and the precise point of its rotation, flung off the noose, which never failed to secure the animal. If a horse- it invariably fell over the neck ; and if an ox, over the horns. As soon as the Gaucho succeeded in his aim, he suddenly turned his horse, which movement set his legs in a position to resist successfully the pull of the entrapped animal. I imitated Joaquin rather clumsily, but made few failures, and met with no accident. Mr. Barrill was not so successful. On one occasion, he threw the lasso over the horns of a large ox ; but neglecting to turn his horse quickly into the proper position, he was pulled to the ground, and severely bruised. Joaquin, however, secured the animal by a skilful^ throw, ANNOYANCES OP THE CAMP. 113 *i