QfarncU Imoerattg ffitbrarg 
 
 JItirata, Ntas $ntk 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 CHARLES WrULlAM WASON 
 
 CLASS OF 1876 
 
 1918 
 
^^1 
 
CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 3 1924 073 038 
 
 21 
 
 
The original of tiiis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924073038121 
 
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS 
 
 OF 
 
 LOBD BEASSEY 
 / VOL. n. 
 
PAPERS AND ADDRESSES 
 
 By LORD BRASSEY, K.C.B., D.C.L. 
 
 NAVAL AND MARITIME 1871 to 1893. Arranged 
 and Edited by Captain S. Eakdlet-Wilmot, 
 E.N. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 10s. 
 
 WOEK AND WAGES. Edited by J. Potter, and 
 with Introduction by Geobqe Howell, M.P. 
 Crown 8to. 5s. 
 
 MEECANTILE MARINE AND NAVIGATION, 
 from 1871 to 1894. Arranged and Edited by 
 Captain S. Eabdley-Wilmoi, E.N. Crown 8vo. 
 5s. _ 
 
 • London : LONGMANS, GEEEN, & CO. 
 New York : 15 Bast 16" Street. 
 
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS 
 
 OP 
 
 LOED BEASSEY, K.C.B., D.C.L. 
 
 FROM 1862 TO 1894 
 
 AKBANfiED AND EDITED BY 
 
 CAPTAIN S. EARDLEY-WILMOT 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES— VOL. II. 
 
 LONDON 
 
 LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 
 
 AND NEW YOEK : 15 BAST 16'" STEEET 
 ,, 1895 j 
 
 U.WlV|fU! '■! Y 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
 U 
 

 \(i\^^^ 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE SECOND VOLUME 
 
 VII. A THIRTEEN MONTHS' CRUISE TO INDIA AND 
 AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87. REPRINT, ' SUNBEAM 
 
 PAPERS ' {conidnued) i 
 
 VIII. A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892. REPRINT, 
 
 ' FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW,' 1893 . . . .176 
 
 IX. A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1853-94. REPRINT, ' NINE- 
 TEENTH CENTURY,' 1894 219 
 
 APPENDIX : SUMMARY OF VOYAGES COMPILED 
 
 FROM LOG-BOOKS 249 
 
 INDEX 251 
 
VII 
 
 A THIBTEEN MONTHS' CBUISE TO INDIA 
 AND A USTBALIA IN 1886-87 {continued) 
 
 VI. — KING GEOKGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 
 
 On May 17 we sailed from Albany for Adelaide. Leave 
 From the snug shelter of Princess Eoyal harbour, '^"^ 
 through the narrows, to the open waters of King 
 George's Sound, we were under steam. Off 
 Breaksea Island we made sail to a fresh breeze 
 from the north-east. . 
 
 The harbour master at Albany predicted that 
 the wind would gradually work round to the 
 north-west. He strongly advised us to stand out stand out 
 to sea on the port tack, keeping at a distance of ^°^^f^^ ^^^^ 
 not less than fifty miles from the coast. Forty- 
 eight hours elapsed before this encouraging 
 prophecy was fulfilled. In the interval we suc- 
 ceeded in making good an average speed of five 
 knots on a course to the southward of the direct 
 track for Adelaide. The weather was fine and 
 clear. The wind was moderate. A short and 
 lumpy head sea showed that in the great Aus- 
 tralian Bight the wind was blowing with force 
 from the north-east. 
 
 VOL. II. B 
 
2 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 On May 20, in the afternoon, the wind shifted 
 to the west. It steadily increased in strength, and 
 on Sunday, the 22nd, for a few hours it blew a 
 
 A westerly -vyhole gale. The sky was clear. The sun shone 
 forth brilliantly, giving a magnificent effect to the 
 heaving masses and breaking crests of the great 
 rollers of the Southern Ocean. We scudded 
 before the gale at a speed of twelve knots an 
 hour. 
 
 At 11 P.M. on the 22nd we passed astern of a 
 large sailing ship under easy sail, close hauled, 
 standing to the southward on the starboard tack. 
 This was the -first sailing vessel we - had met at 
 sea since we left the Malabar coast. At midnight 
 sail was reduced. The strength of -the westerly 
 
 Heavy current was uncertain. Squalls of wind and 
 blinding rain were coming up in quick succession. 
 
 Thick j^ -^rg^g prudent in the- circumstances to endeavour 
 
 weather '- 
 
 to make Kangaroo Island in the daylight. At 
 5 A.M. on the 23rd I went into the foretop, and 
 remained an hour and a half, anxiously looking 
 for the light on Cape Borda, the western extremity 
 of Kangaroo Island,. Our landfall subsequently 
 proved that we were well within the range of its 
 powerful rays, but no gladdening and reassuring 
 beam pierced through the darkness to the anxious 
 watchers in the ' Sunbeam.' It was beconaing a 
 serious question whether we should venture to 
 Make the ruu further in towards the Investigator Strait, 
 °'"^ when land was seen on the starboard bow, and we 
 
 had the great satisfaction of finding that our dead 
 
VI. — KING GEOHGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 
 
 reckoning was correct, and that we were in an 
 excellent position. Nothing now remained but to 
 crowd all possible sail, and press on to the shel- 
 tered waters inside Kangaroo Island. At 7.30 
 P.M. the entrance to Port Adelaide, and the lights 
 in its pleasant marine suburb of Glenelg, were in 
 view. We laid-to for the night, most thankful to Lay-to for 
 the merciful Providence which had carried us in ^ "'^ ^ 
 safety through a night of extreme anxiety. 
 
 Soon after daylight on May 24 we were 
 boarded by a deputation from the Holdfast Bay a welcome 
 YaQht Club, who had been up all night on the Australia 
 look-out for the ' Sunbeam.' Our passage through 
 the Investigator Strait had been telegraphed from 
 the Lighthouse on Cape Borda, and it was calcu- 
 lated by the yachting fraternity that we should 
 arrive off Glenelg in the evening. Their estimate 
 was correct, but we had preferred to stand off and 
 on, rather than bring-up in the darkness in an ill- 
 selected position. In graceful terms the deputa- 
 tion gave us a hearty welcome, and presented an 
 address, which we shall always value as a remi- 
 niscence of the first incident in our happy visit to 
 South Australia. "While the deputation were at 
 breakfast, Mr. Stock, the Mayor of Glenelg, and 
 his daughters arrived on board, bearing charming 
 bouquets of flowers, and renewing the genial 
 welcome we had already received. 
 
 While these agreeable ceremonies were going 
 forward, we-were guided by the harbour master of Anchor off 
 Glenelg ta an anchorage off the jetty, The view '^'^"'''s 
 
 11 2 
 
i CRUISE TO INDIA. AND AUSTEALIA. IN 1886-87 
 
 View from 
 
 llie 
 
 anchorage 
 
 of the coast from the deck of the ' Sunbeam ' was 
 most pleasing. Behind Glenelg, the towers and 
 steeples of its churches and public buildings, 
 clearly seen over the intervening plain, indicate 
 the situation of Adelaide. The city is enclosed, 
 as in an amphitheatre, by the Mount Lofty range, 
 rising in its higher peaks to commanding altitudes, 
 and extending, in a direction nearly parallel to 
 the eastern shore of the Gulf of St. Vincent, as 
 far as the eye can reach. The steep slopes of the 
 INIount Lofty range are richly wooded, and clothed 
 at this season of abundant rains with fresh green 
 grass. On the morning of our arrival the scene 
 was one of surpassing beauty under the varying 
 aspects of shadow and sunshine. 
 
 I here insert the usual extract from the 
 log:— 
 
 Analysis of j 
 the log 1 
 
 Sail Steom 
 
 1887 
 
 S. 1 E. 
 
 
 
 May 17 
 
 Off Breaksea Island 
 
 — 
 
 6 
 
 .. 18 
 
 35-38 199-6-1 
 
 100 
 
 ■1 
 
 
 > 19 
 
 36-23 
 
 122-10 
 
 120 
 
 — 
 
 
 , 20 
 
 36-26 
 
 126-13 
 
 148 
 
 — 
 
 
 , 21 
 
 36 60 
 
 127-66 
 
 135 
 
 — 
 
 
 , 22 
 
 35*65 
 
 132-17 
 
 206 
 
 — 
 
 
 , 23 
 
 35-30 
 
 137-10 
 
 265 
 
 — 
 
 
 , -'•' 
 
 At G 
 
 eiielg 
 
 95 
 
 — 
 
 Total 
 
 
 
 1,069 
 
 10 
 
 Light and variable 
 
 K.E. tD N. by W. 
 
 N.N.W. to N.N.E. 
 
 N.W. to W.N.W. 
 
 "W., strong 
 
 W., fresh gale 
 
 Veering to S.W., moderating 
 
 May 24. — As soon as the anchor had been let 
 go, wc hurried ashore, and drove to Adelaide to 
 
VI.— KING- GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 
 
 attend the Governor's levee. All the official Visit 
 world and the leading men in the colony mustered ^ '''°'''''' 
 on the occasion, to do honour to the Queen in the 
 person of her able representative, Sir William 
 Eobinsou. 
 
 In the afternoon we accompanied the Governor 
 to the races. The most interesting race was a Attend tho 
 steeplechase, over timber jumps as formidable as 
 those in the Campagna of Eome. There were two 
 entries, and the race was closely contested. Both 
 horses were rather beaten, but neither made a 
 mistake in three rounds of a very stiff course. 
 "Walking about among the crowd of spectators, it 
 was delightful to receive many greetings, cor- 
 dially given to a newly-arrived visitor from the old 
 country. The race-course is surrounded by a belt 
 of fine timber, and charmingly situated near the 
 foot of the beautiful Mount Lofty range. 
 
 On leaving the race-course we walked to 
 Government House, through the Botanical Gar- Botanical 
 dens, in which the tree ferns of the antipodes, and 
 the always graceful bamboo, form a chief feature 
 of the plantations. 
 
 Interviewing is a distinctive feature of Aus- 
 tralian as of American journalism. A company of 
 representatives of the Adelaide press spent the Zeai of the 
 night at the semaphore station at Port Adelaide, ^^'^^^ 
 in anticipation of the arrival of the ' Sunbeam.' 
 Our movements unintentionally eluded their 
 observation, and it was not until 11 p.m. that we 
 were boarded by^ a member of the press, who. 
 
6 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 in pleading accents, implored me not to send him 
 
 away empty-handed after an arduous and persever- 
 
 Perseve- Jng chase of twenty-four hours. The following 
 
 J. ulXC6 ^ ^ 
 
 rewarded result of a midnight conference appeared m the 
 ' South Australian Eegister.' 
 
 AN INTERVIEW WITH LORD BEASSEY 
 
 ' A representative of the " South Australian 
 Eegister" boarded the "Sunbeam" on Tuesday 
 evening. Lord Brassey very kindly allowed him- 
 self to be interviewed, and the substance of the 
 conversation is given below : — 
 
 THE BRITISH COLONIES 
 
 Object of ' My expedition,' said Lord Brassey, ' has been 
 
 the voyage ^^^ undertaking long meditated. I had for a long 
 time wished to come out and see the colonies. 
 Acquisitions of countries inhabited by other races 
 of men sometimes bring us reluctant and unwilling 
 subjects, and are then sources of weakness rather 
 than of strength. But when we turn to the 
 children of our own race, whose hearts beat 
 warm in sympathy with the old country, and who 
 are one with us in race and traditions, in mem- 
 ories and history, and in associations, it is quite 
 different. We have under our flag loyal and 
 united citizens, who are sources of strength. I 
 think the statesmanship of England in future 
 should consist in cultivating a near and abiding 
 
VI, — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 
 
 friendship with the colonies. Sir Eobert Stout's 
 article in a recent number of the "Nineteenth 
 Century" presents, I think, an excellent idea of 
 the course which the statesmen of the mother 
 country should take towards the colonies. With 
 the general idea in view which I have indicated, I 
 am now paying a visit to the Australian colonies,' 
 
 .DEFENCE OF THE EMPIEE 
 
 'What about; federation for offensive and 
 defensive purposes, my Lord ? ' 'I consider we Federation, 
 must go forward in that direction, but it naturally would' 
 
 involves a contribution to a common purse ; and 
 taxation involves representation ; and representa- 
 tion of colonial countries involves, as Sir Eobert 
 Stout pointed out, an important modification, and, 
 I believe, a wise one, in the foreign policy of Eng- 
 land. We cannot expect that the colonies will 
 associate themselves with the mother country in 
 a policy of interference with the affairs of Europe.. 
 They would associate with us, I doubt not, in a 
 policy in which they have a common "interest. 
 Eor instance, the colonies may be presumed to 
 have a common interest in the retention of India. 
 They have begun and are likely to carry on a 
 rapidly increasing trade with India. They would 
 not like to see the country pass under a foreign 
 flag, and would probably assist us in defending it. 
 Enghsh statesmanship should be directed towards 
 
 involve 
 
8 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 The 
 colonial 
 contingent 
 in the 
 Soudan 
 
 the advancenaent of movements that are of com- 
 mon advantage to all parts of the Empire.' 
 
 ' But your lordship does not regard the Soudan 
 war as affecting the colonies ? ' ' No ; but they 
 came to the front in the Soudan question owing 
 to the kindly affection which they bear to Eng- 
 land. They thought that we were being rather 
 hardly used by the Russians on one side and the 
 French on the other, and in a most generous way 
 they came to our rescue. The colonial contingent 
 to the Soudan had a moral effect far beyond the 
 presence of a certain nmnber of stalwart soldiers 
 in the field. 
 
 AUSTRALIAN HARBOURS 
 
 Defence of ' The defence of harbours in the Australias was 
 harbours a subject about which the home authorities had 
 most competent advice from Sir William Jervois 
 and others. The question remains as to finding 
 men to man these defences. Take, for instance. 
 King George's Sound. The colony of Western 
 Australia cannot be expected to maintain a per- 
 manent force. The place is important to that 
 colony, but it is also an important strategical 
 position in regard to communication between 
 England and the whole of Australasia, and it 
 would therefore be unfair that the burden of 
 maintaining the defences should fall on one 
 colony, and that the poorest yet created on this 
 fifth continent. You must look to the mother 
 country to come in and help. 
 
YI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 9 
 
 MANNING THE FORTS 
 
 ' I should say it would be a wise step in a 
 position like- that of King George's Sound to 
 employ marines or ;marine artillery as a permanent *^*™^^ 
 force. It would have the advantage of preventing George's 
 the necessity of a body of men being detached 
 from the general service, and becoming deteriorated 
 in discipline or drill. A scheme might be easily 
 worked out by which the marines in charge of the 
 forts should be relieved by a fresh detachment 
 every twelve months or so from the squadron. 
 
 ' Here, in the more wealthy colonies, means 
 will be found for training a sufficient number of 
 men to fight the guns and man the works. For ^^^^^1^"^ 
 such duty volunteers are particularly adapted, and colonies 
 do not require the long drilling and solidity of 
 movement that are demanded of infantry in the 
 field. 
 
 COMMUNICATION WITH ENGLAND 
 
 ' The Intercolonial Railway is a great achieve- 
 ment, and anything that the mother country can 
 do now to complete the link between Vancouver's 
 Island and these colonies or Hong Kong should be 
 done. We might concur with the desire of the 
 Canadians, and allow a subsidy to steamers. 
 
 INCREASING OUB NAVAL STRENGTH 
 
 'I am in favour of a generous policy in 
 matters of subsidy for postal objects. 
 
10 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 fast mail 
 steamers 
 
 Govevn- « A gTcat improvement could be made if the 
 
 sidies to Government rendered the necessary assistance for 
 a line of steamers to run between Vancouver and 
 Australia. Look at the last Eussian scare. Had 
 we then a line of subsidised steamers readily con- 
 vertible into cruisers running between Vancouver 
 and Australia, and armaments laid up for them at 
 Sydney, it would have done a great deal to relieve 
 the anxiety felt at the time. As it is, we had an 
 illustration of the benefits of the arrangement for 
 mail steamers being used as cruisers in the fact 
 that, one or two of the Peninsular and Orient 
 liners were kept in Australia, and converted into 
 temporary cruisers. That shows the value of the 
 system in connection with defence here. 
 
 NAVAL VOLUNTEER FOECE 
 
 ' As I look forward to the gradual completion 
 of the defensive arrangenxents for the principal 
 ports in Australia by means of the harbour flotilla, 
 so I think it will be very important to give every 
 Naval encouragement to the Naval Volunteer move- 
 
 ment. If you build flotillas for harbour defence 
 where there is no permanent force, and no 
 necessity for such a force, you must fall back upon 
 volunteers. I am happy to know that the Naval 
 Volunteer movement in the old country is a 
 Success of success. I have watched it with the deepest 
 menTat ' interest. I have taken the opportunity of seeing 
 home ^j^g volunteers at sea in their gunboats as well as 
 
Yl. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 11 
 
 in the batteries on shore. I have made inquiiy 
 about them from the commanding officers, and 
 have every reason for satisfaction. There is a 
 certain nautical aptitude ingrained in the British 
 race which makes them singularly fit to undertake 
 the duties of auxiliaries to the Navy, and I am glad 
 to know that the Naval Volunteer movement has 
 been begun in these colonies. I wish it every 
 success, for I am sure it will do very much to 
 strengthen the harbours against any possibility of 
 attack.' 
 
 May 25. — We were driven this morning by 
 Mr. Stock into the heart of the Mount Lofty 
 range. We had admired greatly the hills when 
 seen from below ; we admired not less the views view from 
 obtained from their commanding heights. The Lofty' 
 sinuous shores of the Gulf of St. Vincent may be "^""se 
 traced to the horizon. The rich plain is. spread 
 out beneath the hills, with the city of Adelaide, 
 and its cheerful and far-extending suburbs, in the 
 middle distance. We lunched at the Belair Hotel, 
 in a beautiful situation, overlooking a fine and 
 well-wooded glen. In summer this is a favourite 
 resort for evening riding parties. We descended 
 to Glenelg by a well-engineered road, every turn 
 revealing new aspects of loveliness in hill and 
 plain. 
 
 In the afternoon a large party from Glenelg Social 
 came off to inspect the ' Sunbeam.' We were on the'"^ 
 delighted to .ha,ye_ the opportunity of making '^"'''^^^'^' 
 
12 CRUISE TO INDIA .\XI) Al'STR.AXIA IN 1886-87 
 
 friends with a community which had given us a 
 cordial welcome, and to realise how perfectly we 
 of the old country and our colonial fellow-subjects 
 are one people. There was nothing to distinguish 
 the gathering on board the ' Sunbeam ' this after- 
 noon from a similar assemblage in England. A 
 three hours' sail across the English Channel 
 would have brought us to a social life differing in 
 everything from our own. Eighteen thousand 
 miles of voyaging to the Australias had brought 
 us to a social life in all essentials the same as that 
 which we had left behind in England. 
 Shift to May 26. — Under the guidance of Mr. Inglis, 
 
 Adelaide the harbour master, we steamed from our anchor- 
 age off Glenelg to Port Adelaide. 
 
 May 27. — The morning was busily employed 
 T'j" in a visit to the exhibition buildings, to be opened 
 
 buildings ou Juue 21, in commemoration of Her Majesty's 
 Jubilee. The creation of structures of such large 
 and handsome proportions, many of them being 
 permanent buildings, and the successful result of 
 the appeals sent out from the colony for contri- 
 butions of art and manufactures, and raw products 
 of every description, is no slight achievement for 
 a colony which, measured by numbers only, 
 scarcely exceeds a provincial city of the old 
 country. The main credit is due to the spirit, 
 energy, and tact of the present Mayor of Adelaide. 
 hittitations ^^0^^ the exhibition we proceeded to the public 
 picture gallery, the school of art, the musemn, the 
 library, and the public news room. In each of 
 
VI.— KING GEOEGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 13 
 
 these institutions we found a good commencement 
 of collections, which will be gradually enriched by 
 the liberality of individuals and the expenditure of 
 public money in the fullest measure of the available 
 means. Life in the colonies is very much more 
 than a sordid struggle for wealth. A resolve is 
 evident on all sides that progress shall be marked 
 by culture and by civilisation, not less than by 
 increase in material wealth. 
 
 In the afternoon I had the honour of being in- 
 vited to the annual meeting of the Geographical 
 Society, by Sir Samuel Davenport. I again borrow 
 from the ' Australian "Weekly Kegister ' a report of 
 our proceedings : — 
 
 BOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 
 
 ' The annual meeting of the South Australian Reception 
 branch of the Eoyal Geographical Society of graphical"' 
 Australasia was held at the society's rooms. Way- '^°<"«*'y 
 mouth Street, on Friday afternoon. May 27. Sir 
 Samuel Davenport (vice-prQsident) occupied the 
 chair. 
 
 ' The ordinary business of the meeting having 
 been concluded, and speeches of welcome to Lord 
 Brassey having been delivered by the chairman, 
 and the Hon. E. A. Tarlton, Lord Brassey, who 
 was received with cheers, said : — Gentlemen, Move a 
 there is no more business on the paper, but there thanks to 
 is a resolution which I am sure you would desire ^au"'^"'"" 
 to have moved before the proceedings are brought 
 to a close, and if you will permit a stranger to do 
 
14 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 SO I will move a vote of thanks to the chairman 
 for his able conduct in the chair. Perhaps I may 
 be allowed before moving the resolution to say a 
 word or two. You have spoken of the voyages 
 that have been taken on the " Sunbeam " as 
 adventures not unworthy of those old Northmen 
 in whose distant fame England and Australia 
 equally share. I cannot take to myself the credit 
 of being an adventurer in the same sense in which 
 our northern forefathers were adventurers. I will 
 not speak of the morality of their proceedings, but 
 simply of the feats of navigation in which they 
 engaged. Those northern forefathers of ours were 
 not provided with all the information which geo- 
 Seamaii- graphers and explorers have given to the navigators 
 early" of modem days. Consider for a moment the 
 uavigatoi-s j^^zards and the difficulties encountered by Captain 
 Captain Cook. Going about as I do with all the facilities 
 afforded by the most recent discoveries in science, 
 and still finding the art of navigation not made- so 
 \eicj easy, when I look back to Captain Cook, who 
 entered these seas with no information, and with 
 no other resource but his general seamanship and 
 knowledge of navigation, my admiration of his 
 achievements grows continually stronger. 
 Usefulness ' I particularly rejoice that .so excellent a society 
 
 societies ^^ this lias been established in Adelaide. I under- 
 stand it is a _society collateral with others which 
 exist in the other colonies of Australia.- ■ You are 
 doing- a most valuable work. - Exploration .must 
 precede settlement. A previous speaker expressed 
 
VI. — KIN& aEOEGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 15 
 
 deep satisfaction that the control of this fif tli con- 
 tinent had devolved on the Anglo-Saxon race. In 
 coming to these colonies I touched at two seaports, 
 which, by the contrast they present, brought forcibly Commer- 
 to my mind the advantage of a liberal policy in sJTeift™ 
 dealing v^^ith commerce. The two ports to which 
 I refer are Singapore and Makassar. Singapore Compari- 
 dates from some fifty or sixty years at the most, between 
 but it has grown to be a magnificent emporium of aiif"'^""' 
 trade ; and how has it reached that position ? By Makassar 
 declaring on the very first day that the protecting 
 flag of England was hoisted that equal privileges 
 should be given to men of commerce to whatever 
 nationality they might belong. When we turn to 
 Makassar — a place which might be not unfairly 
 compared in regard to facilities of position with 
 Singapore— we find the Dutch determined to close 
 it to the enterprise of every foreign nationality. 
 The result of this selfish spirit is that Makassar 
 presents all the indications of languor and decay, 
 while Singapore presents all the indications of 
 prosperity and wealth. 
 
 ' Before I sit down, may I refer to a portion 
 of the report, in which reference was made to 
 recent spheres of exploration in which the 
 society is interested ? There are some delicate 
 questions connected with New Guinea. .What 
 I have seen of the world has. tended to im- 
 press on my mind most deeply the conviction 
 that latitude does fix in a decisive manner a limit- 
 ation upon the sphere of the Anglo-Saxon race 
 
16 CBUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Labour in 
 the tropics 
 
 Unsuitable 
 for Anglo- 
 Saxon 
 
 Affection 
 for the 
 colonies in 
 Great 
 Britain 
 
 for physical labour. Unless you have temperate 
 weather, such as we are now enjoying in Adelaide, 
 the Anglo-Saxon race cannot undertake outdoor 
 labour. You may direct and administer it ; you 
 may be able to go through figures in the office ; 
 but to go out into the field to dig and delve is 
 impossible. Although tropical countries may not 
 be suitable for the employment of the Anglo- 
 Saxons as field labourers, it does not follow that 
 they are not to be of great benefit — even a direct 
 benefit — to our own race in regard to the employ- 
 ment of labour. If we can succeed in developing 
 these tropical regions by employing the labour of 
 the tropical races, the increasing prosperity will 
 serve to extend the markets for the products of 
 Anglo-Saxon labour in countries adapted to our 
 race. 
 
 ' A visit to Australia must be a matter of 
 deep interest to every patriotic Englishman. In 
 the old country we are becoming more and more 
 sensible that it is the highest statesmanship to 
 keep together every limb of the British Empire. 
 There is an increasing affection to the colonies in 
 England, and an increasing pride in their ad- 
 vancement. National sentiment and enlightened 
 self-interest will bind and keep us together, so 
 that not one limb of the great British Empire 
 shall be severed.' 
 
 The afternoon of the 27th was not entirely 
 occupied with the proceedings of the Geographical 
 
VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 17 
 
 Society. Under the guidance of the acting 
 premier, Mr. Bray, I had the advantage of seeing 
 several of the Government offices, and of being visit to 
 introduced to the officials. Everything bore the meat 
 marks of ordter and method in the administration °^'^'^^ 
 of government. Mr. Bray kindly show^ed me the 
 contents of a strong box in the Treasury, consisting 
 of some splendid nuggets purchased by the Gov- 
 ernment from the gold diggings at Teetulpa, to be 
 shown at the Adelaide exhibition. 
 
 May 28. — The morning was devoted to a visit 
 to Port Adelaide, by invitation of the Mayor. 
 
 Great efforts have been made to improve the improve- 
 harbour and its approaches. The docks have been harbour" 
 formed on an estuary of the Gulf of St. Vincent, 1^%^^^^ 
 about nine miles from its mouth. The tortuous Adelaide 
 channel has been artificially deepened to twenty- 
 two feet. On the banks of the river extensive 
 ranges of timber jetties have been constructed. 
 The floating-dock has an area of five acres and a 
 depth of twenty-one feet. A capacious graving- 
 dock, the property of the Government, is now in 
 process of enlargement. Every facility has been 
 provided for all but the largest class of ocean 
 steamers. There is no difficulty in dealing with 
 their cargoes by means of lighters. 
 
 Having visited the docks we proceeded to a 
 large corn mill recently completed by Mr. Dunn, Mr. Dunn's 
 the largest miller in South Australia. The engine ''™" ™' 
 for driving the mills is of English manufacture. 
 All the other machinery is from American makers, 
 VOL. II. c 
 
18 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 The 
 
 Sailors' 
 
 Home 
 
 The 
 
 Cathedral. 
 Bishop 
 Kennioii 
 
 Visit to 
 Japanese 
 corvette 
 ' Ringo ' 
 
 and equally remarkable for ingenuity of design 
 and perfection in workmanship. The flour of 
 South Australia is of the finest quality. 
 
 Our visit to Port Adelaide terminated with an 
 inspection of the excellent Sailors' Home. No less 
 than one hundred seamen were staying in the 
 Home. Looking to the high scale of wages, 
 averaging 61. a month, I was surprised to fiTid so 
 many men out of a berth. 
 
 In the afternoon the Governor had a garden 
 reception. It was attended by some eight hundred 
 visitors. In the evening we accompanied the 
 Governor to the theatre to witness a creditable 
 performance of ' Human Nature.' The theatre 
 was crowded with an audience representing the 
 leaders in the social world of Adelaide. 
 
 May 29. — Attended morning service at the 
 Cathedral. The chanting was worthy of a cathe- 
 dral choir in England. Bishop Kennion is 
 universally beloved in South Australia. He came 
 to the colonies from active parish work in Brad- 
 ford, and with experience in dealing with an 
 industrial population. No man can succeed here, 
 whether in the social, political, or spiritual sphere, 
 unless he understands the susceptibilities of work- 
 ing men, and can win their hearts — a task not 
 difficult where genuine sympathy exists. 
 
 May 30. — Lunched on board the Japanese 
 corvette ' Eingo.' A large party of Adelaide 
 notabilities, led by the Governor, shared in the 
 hospitable entertainment, The ship appeared in 
 
VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 19 
 
 good order, but the profuse decorations of paper 
 chrysanthemums, and some stuffed figures, after 
 tlie manner of Guy Fawlies, by no means improved 
 the nautical effect. The crew were small in 
 stature, but sturdy, well set up, and clean. In the 
 afternoon we had an ' At home ' on board the 
 ' Sunbeam.' 
 
 May 31. — Was devoted to an excursion to 
 Marble Hill, the summer residence of the Governor visit to 
 in the Mount Lofty range. The distance from S,"™'""/' 
 Adelaide is sixteen miles. From the city to the g^j"''® 
 foot of the hills the road traverses a level plain, 
 thickly inhabited and of great fertility. On leaving 
 the plain the ascent is rapid through deep gorges 
 and between steep hillsides, which in Scotland 
 would be clothed with heather, but here are green 
 with the fresh verdure" of the winter rains. By 
 the roadside, at short intervals apart, a.re the 
 simple but comfortable dwellings of small farmers 
 or dairymen, shaded by graceful willow trees, 
 watered by running brooks, and surrounded by 
 well stocked gardens. These little homesteads 
 had an air of easy independence which it was truly 
 delightful to see. They presented the ideal stan- 
 dard to which it is so desirable to raise our agri- 
 cultural labourers at home, and which, alas ! 
 could only be reached through emigration on a 
 scale which it is impracticable to attempt. 
 
 Marble Hill stands at an elevation of 2,300 feet, site of the 
 on a projecting buttress of the Mount Lofty range. 
 The terrace in front of the house is on the edge 
 
 c 2 
 
20 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 The 
 
 municipal 
 
 baildings 
 
 Address to 
 the Cham- 
 ber of 
 Commerce 
 
 of an almost precipitous slope. The view extends 
 over the Gulf of St. Vincent, whose shores can be 
 followed from Glenelg, round the head of the Gulf 
 to the hills of the Cape Yorke peninsula. The 
 hills extend to the east and west as far as the eye 
 can reach, descending into the plain in a succession 
 of sharp ridges divided by valleys broad and deep. 
 A forest of Australian gum trees clothes the 
 steepest slopes, and in the valleys presents an un- 
 broken mass of evergreen foliage. 
 
 On our return from Marble Hill we stopped at 
 a delightful country house, Morialta. The view is 
 lovely. The grounds are planted with our English 
 trees, which seemed to have flourished very satis- 
 factorily under an Australian sky. 
 
 June 1. — We lunched with the Mayor, Mr. E. 
 T. Smith. The luncheon was followed by a visit 
 to the municipal buildings. They are worthy of 
 a goodly city. The council chamber is hung with 
 portraits of the fathers of the colony. The large 
 hall is of handsome proportions and furnished 
 with a fine organ, which was magnificently played 
 by Professor Ives, of the University. 
 
 The visit to the Town Hall was followed by an 
 address to the Chamber of Commerce. The pro- 
 ceedings were reported in the ' Evening Journal ' 
 of June 2 : — 
 
 ' The hall of the Chamber of Commerce was 
 crowded on Wednesday afternoon, it having been 
 announced that Lord Brassey would deliver an 
 address. The audience included most of the 
 
VI.~KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 21 
 
 prominent merchants of the city, and others 
 interested in commerce, and Dr. Kennion, the 
 AngHcan Bishop of Adelaide. Mr. A. W. Meeks 
 presided. 
 
 ' Lord Brassey, who was received with cheers, 
 said : — Your Chairman did not give me any infor- 
 mation as to the kind of subject which I should 
 address you on, but I presumed that as I would 
 have to meet the Chamber of Commerce it was 
 possible that you would be most interested in the 
 labour question. 
 
 CHINESE OR COOLIE LABOUR 
 
 ' The policy to be pursued by the Government The labour 
 of this colony in relation to the admission of ^^^^ '°" 
 Chinese or coolie labour into the Northern Terri- 
 tory is, I understand, among the pressing subjects 
 of the hour. Approaching the subject without 
 prejudice or bias, it does not seem dif&cult to 
 determine the principles by which the action of 
 the State should be guided. If we have faith in 
 the superior qualities of our own people we shall 
 do well, even at the cost of considerable delay in 
 material development, to reserve for our own race 
 those parts of the country in which they can 
 succeed, in which they can not only labour, but 
 preserve and perpetuate from generation to gene- 
 ration the qualities which have made them great. 
 While the policy seems clear in relation to regions 
 adapted to the physical qualities of our own race, 
 it seems not less clear for the regions beyond. To 
 
22 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 refuse the aid of the tropical populations for 
 opening up the resources of countries where the 
 Anglo-Saxon race cannot perform manual labour, 
 and still less establish a permanent settlement, is 
 not to advance, but seriously to injure the true 
 interest of this colony. By opening up portions 
 of your northern territory with imported labour, a 
 new outlet will be afforded for the investment of 
 your capital and a new market created under your 
 own control for the sale of your manufactures. 
 
 THE RELATIONS OP LABOUR AND CAPITAL 
 
 Labour and ' I pass to another subject which must be dealt 
 ''^P' " with, not by legislation, but by mutual good feel- 
 ing and by common sense. Wherever business 
 is carried on upon a large scale, difficulties must 
 in the nature of things be anticipated in the 
 relations between labour and capital. Each of 
 these elements in the operations of industry may 
 be helpless without the other, but when we pass 
 from the stage of production to the appropriation 
 of profits the conflict of interests is inevitable. 
 Strengthened by the experience in the old country, 
 I would earnestly recommend for all your larger 
 Courts of trades voluntary Courts of Arbitration and Con- 
 
 Arbitration .... -re 
 
 ciliation. If we go back to that dark time in 
 England which followed the close of the long 
 struggle with Napoleon, tke hostihty of classes 
 was seen in all employments, and in none was it 
 more conspicuous than in the collieries. A happy 
 
VI.— KING GEORGES SOUND TO ADKLAIBE 2S 
 
 change has passed over the spirit of the scene. 
 Nowhere has the method of arbitration been more 
 successful than in Durham and Northumberland. 
 A scale of wages for miners has been agreed upon, 
 varying with the price of coal, and arbitrators 
 have been found to apply the scale to the condi- 
 tions of the time, in whose justice . employers 
 and employed have implicit confidence. Among 
 these valuable men Mr. David Dale is an eminent 
 example. He and other men of his high stamp 
 and quality — men such as Eupert Kettle, Mun- 
 della, and Frederic Harrison — occupy a truly 
 lioble position in relation to labour questions. 
 They have won the confidence of the masses, not 
 by truckling to prejudices, not by disavowing the 
 sound and well-tried rules of political economy, 
 but by listening and by explaining with unwearied 
 patience, by showing a sincere sympathy with the 
 working classes, and by taking a deep interest in 
 their welfare. The inention of these distinguished 
 names leads me to the adjustment of difficulties 
 by Courts of Conciliation. They may be described Courts o£ 
 
 .,, ... « , 1 J. Concilia- 
 
 as committees consisting oi equal numbers of tion 
 employers and workmen, appointed to meet at 
 frequent intervals, and to discuss in a friendly 
 open way, and on terms of perfect equality, all 
 the questions in which there is a possibihty of a 
 conflict. The practicability of the plan has been 
 proved by experience. It is impossible to exag- 
 gerate its good effects. By frequent and friendly 
 meetings knowledge is acquired on both sides 
 
24 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 "which could be gained in no other way, and sus- 
 picion is changed to sympathy. I hope that no 
 bad influences of false pride on one side, or of 
 unmerited distrust on the other, will deter the 
 employers and the employed of South Australia 
 from rapidly bringing into operation the excellent 
 method of averting disputes which Courts of 
 Conciliation both in England and on the Continent 
 of Europe have never failed to provide. 
 
 PEEE TKADE AND PROTECTION 
 
 Difficulty ' Free trade and protection are topics which 
 
 question wide-spread depression has thrust into prominence 
 of late. The present Government in England, in 
 deference to the demands of Protectionists, 
 appointed a Eoyal Commission. Its members 
 were the representatives of conflicting views, and 
 after an exhaustive inquiry they separated without 
 changing the opinions with which they entered 
 upon their labours. We may draw the inference 
 that the subject is not quite so simple as the 
 most earnest partisans in the controversy would 
 wish us to believe. For the United Kingdom I 
 am a convinced Freetrader. I admit that the 
 old country, where half the population subsists on 
 imported food, which must be paid for in exported 
 goods, is not on all fours with a colony capable 
 of producing in abundance all the necessaries of 
 life for a population infinitely more numerous 
 than at present exists within its borders. But 
 
YI.— KINO GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 25 
 
 while the conditions are different, the fact remains Advan- 
 that under a protective system customers are h-ee trade 
 precluded from buying in the cheapest market, 
 agriculture is heavily charged for the benefit of 
 a less important interest, and labour artificially 
 diverted from those spheres of industry in which 
 it might be employed to the greatest advantage. 
 Certain it is that cycles of commercial depression 
 would not be averted, but rather prolonged and 
 aggravated by a policy of protection. Impressed 
 A\'ith the weight of evidence on this point, the 
 recent Eoyal Commission of Trade declined to 
 recommend protection as a panacea for commercial 
 depression in the United Kingdom, and I hesitate 
 to recommend it to the Chamber of Commerce 
 in Adelaide. While, however, I would deprecate 
 the imposition of burdensome import duties for 
 the purposes of protection, I fully recognise that 
 moderate import duties* are necessary as a means Necessity 
 of raising revenue. The first duty of every Finance datlenor 
 Minister is to obtain an income for the State by '^^^n^e 
 the methods which are the least irksome to the tax- 
 payers. In new countries, not exporters of manu- 
 factured goods, import duties are universally found 
 to be the least irksome form of taxation. If under 
 a moderate tariff industries are established earlier 
 than would be possible without some protection, 
 the incidental advantage is secured of varied em- 
 ployment for the people. Were all to depend on 
 the same pursuit or the same industry, an un- 
 favourable season or a fall in price may cause a 
 
26 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA. IN 1886-87 
 
 general depression. There is less risk of universal 
 melancholy and decline when the public wealth 
 is derived from various and independent sources. 
 My conclusion is against import duties on a high 
 scale, levied, as in the United States, for the pur- 
 pose of exclusion. I recognise the necessity in 
 certain circumstances for the imposition of import 
 duties on a moderate scale for the purposes of 
 revenue. 
 
 EDUCATION 
 
 ' I have one more remark to offer in connection 
 with the labour question. Among the many 
 gratifying things which I have seen in your 
 colony, nothing has exceeded your system of 
 education. I congratulate your people, and I 
 honour your Government for their efforts in the 
 cause. It may not, however, be superfluous to 
 refer to that tendency to- look disparagingly on 
 manual labour, which is so frequent and fatal a 
 result of the very perfection of educational work.. 
 Education may become a curse rather than a.boon 
 tion°S"' ^^ ^* relaxes that physical energy which in all com- 
 mammi munitics, and especially in a new country, is the 
 indispensable condition of progress. It has been 
 truly said by the poet Browning : — 
 
 The honest earnest man must stand and wort, 
 
 The woman also — otherwise she drops 
 
 At once below the dignity of man, 
 
 Accepting serfdom. 
 
 I count that Heaven itself is only wort 
 
 To a surer issue. 
 
 labour 
 
VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 27 
 
 Society must take to itself the responsibility for the 
 preference given to clerical over naechanical employ- 
 ments. We have not done our duty in giving to 
 our skilled v^^orkmen that social recognition which 
 is their due. But I am happy to say that in the 
 old country we are decidedly in the way of amend- 
 ment. The retm'n of working men in greater 
 numbers to the House of Commons has been pro- 
 ductive of much good in a social point of view. 
 
 CONCLUSION 
 
 ' In conclusion, it may not be inappropriate to 
 the occasion to dwell for a few moments on the 
 influences of honest trade in raising the standard influence 
 of civilisation and elevating the character of men. m com- 
 The prosperity of commerce depends on intelli- ™^'"''® 
 gence, on industry, but above all on character. 
 Cleverness may sometimes win a stroke. There 
 have been financiers in the city of London whose 
 career might have been painted in the language 
 applied by Earl Eussell to Mirabeau — " His mind 
 raised him to the skies ; his moral character 
 chained him to the earth. ' ' I can quote no instance 
 in which men of this stamp have achieved an 
 enduring success. It is not the men whose craft 
 and cunning people fear, but the men in whom 
 they trust and whom they love who in the end 
 succeed. It is the office of commerce to give 
 to the world perpetual illustrations of the homely 
 
Mr. 
 Phillips 
 
 28 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-37 
 
 but ennobling truth that honesty is the best 
 poHcy. Commerce puts before those engaged in 
 it many temptations. The good man of business 
 must rise superior to them all, and thus it is that 
 in his life and work he can do so much to com- 
 municate advantages, to advance material v?elfare, 
 and to raise the tone of morals. Such, and not 
 less, is the mission of the merchant and the trader. 
 For myself, I am proud to know that I am the 
 son of a contractor for pubHc works, whose good 
 reputation was the best part of the heritage which 
 descended to his sons. 
 
 ' Mr. W. H, Phillips, in moving a vote of thanks 
 to Lord Brassey for his able address, said that in 
 a small community like this there was always a 
 diversity of opinion in respect to questions of 
 great moment, and it was a great advantage to 
 them to have a gentleman of such wide experience 
 and great knowledge as Lord Brassey to give them 
 the benefit of his views on such matters. 
 Mr. ' The Chief Secretary (Hon. D. Murray, M.L.C.) 
 
 Murray -,■,,■, ,• -r-r , ., ^ i 
 
 seconded the motion. He was sure that if Lord 
 Brassey had been able to give them the time to 
 express his views on how the products of the 
 different parts of the world were likely to benefit 
 the commerce of the colonies, they would have 
 listened to him with pleasure, and derived great 
 benefit from his remarks.' 
 
 My visit to tlie Chamber of Commerce was 
 followed by an interview with the representatives 
 
YI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 29 
 
 of the Federated Seamen's Union, who came on 
 board the ' Sunbeam ' in the evening. 
 
 June '2. — Attended the opening of the session Opeimig of 
 of the South AustraUan Parhament. The cere- Australian 
 mony was conducted with dignity. On a small ""^ """^" 
 scale all the features of similar proceedings at 
 home were reproduced. The official and military 
 array included the Governor and his A.D.C., in 
 full dress, a mounted escort of Yeomanry, in 
 uniform resembling our Dragoons, a guard of 
 honour at the entrance to the legislative chambers, 
 with a band playing ' God save the Queen,' and 
 the officers of the tvro houses in their professional 
 robes. 
 
 In the afternoon I retm'ned to the ' Sunbeam,' 
 and settled down for the passage to Melbourne. 
 
 Before bidding farewell to South Australia, a few 
 particulars of a general character may be added. 
 The proclamation of the Province took place on 
 December 28, 1836, on a spot near Glenelg, where 
 the event is recorded by an inscription on an un- 
 adorned wooden tablet. South Australia has a 
 population of some 314,000, a public debt of Extent of 
 20,000,000Z., and a revenue of 2,809,000Z. The Kaiia 
 imports and exports approximately figure at five 
 and a half millions each. To the territory origin- 
 ally assigned, a great addition was made in 1863, 
 by extending the boundary to the northern coast 
 Une. The total area is 578,000,000 acres, of which 
 11,000,000 acres have been alienated. The addi- 
 tion of the Northern Territory has thrown a heavy 
 
30 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1S86-87 
 
 Effect of task on the Government. It has increased ex- 
 Northem penditure, with no immediate prospect of return, 
 erntory j^ j^^^^ created for the colony the ambition to 
 connect their northern shores with Adelaide by a 
 railway which will cost 11,000,000Z. It has raised 
 questions as to admission of Chinese labour and 
 other important points which are not easy of solu- 
 tion for the working population, with whom, as 
 electors, the decision rests, and who have slender 
 means of gaining information on the requirements 
 of a country two thousand miles away. 
 
 The most settled parts of the country are the 
 plain interposed between the sea and the Mount 
 Lofty range, and the wide plains which border on 
 the waters of the Biver MurraJ^ The central 
 portion of the colony is an arid district. To the 
 north, as I was assured by Mr. Lindsay, the 
 Fertility of enterprising explorer, the rainfall is abundant and 
 
 north and .... 
 
 south the soil fertile. 
 
 In recent years the colony has passed through 
 Depression a sevcrc depression. Wheat, its staple product, 
 drought has fallen in value, and the deficiency in the rain- 
 fall has seriously diminished the quantity raised. 
 The wheat of South Australia is excellent in 
 quality, but the yield per acre may be taken at 
 seven bushels, as compared with eleven for India, 
 while the cost of cultivation in the latter country 
 is considerably less than in Australia. Wool has 
 improved in price, but the flocks have suffered 
 seriously from the prolonged drought. Copper, 
 formerlv a yaluable mineral resource of South 
 
VI. — KING GEORGE'S SOUND' TO ADELAIDE 31 
 
 Australia, lias fallen so much in value that it no 
 
 longer pays to work the mines. The prospects improved 
 
 are now improving. The rainfall this winter has p^^p*" ^ 
 
 been abundant. Anew goldfield has been opened 
 
 at Teetulpa, and at the Broken Hill mine and its 
 
 vicinity whole mountains of silver ore have been 
 
 discovered. 
 
 The city of Adelaide is admirably situated on City of 
 
 . Adelaide 
 
 the banks of the Eiver Torrens. The beauties of 
 its scenery have been already described. By the 
 river side a fine park has been formed, dividing 
 North Adelaide from South Adelaide, and on the 
 outskirts of the city a wide belt has also been 
 reserved, thus completely surrounding it with a 
 space which will be converted by the gradual 
 expenditure of money into a beautiful park. The 
 main streets are broad and handsome. They are 
 laid out rectangularly. Several fine squares have 
 been formed in the heart of the city. On the 
 East Park Lands is a race-course, and in the 
 North Park Lands a fine cricket ground has been 
 formed. 
 
 A system of railways, of which 1,063 miles are Railways 
 completed and 718 miles are in construction, has 
 been created by the Grovernment at an expendi- 
 ture, met by loans, of 7,295,102Z. 
 
 Education has been provided by the State with Education 
 a lavish hand. We visited an infant- school at 
 Adelaide. Buildings, teachers, and children bore 
 the evidence of Successful effort, and of the wise 
 generosity of the Goyernnxent iv. laying the sure 
 
32 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Generosity foundations of an advanced civilisation. The 
 raentlnd public Spirit of wliich SO many examples are ex- 
 individimis hibited by prosperous colonists has been eminently 
 marked in connection with education. Gifts to 
 Adelaide University of 20,000Z. from Sir Walter 
 Hughes, of 20,000?., and again of 10,000Z. from Sir 
 Thomas Elder, and of 6,000Z. from J. H. Angus, 
 attest the munificence of individual colonists and 
 their liberality for public objects. The same 
 enlightened spirit is shown in matters relating to 
 the material development of the colony. The in- 
 troduction of the vine and the olive, and the 
 diffusion of a knowledge of the art of preparing 
 wine and oil have been mainly due to the enterprise 
 and the intelligent observation of men like Mr. 
 Hardy and Sir Samuel Davenport. The breeding 
 of horses has been similarly advanced by Sir 
 Thomas Elder. 
 
 In walking through the smaller streets and the 
 outskirts of Adelaide, it was pleasing to see the 
 Cottages long rows of tidy cottages built of wood, one- 
 storied and each surrounded by its little patch of 
 garden. These dwellings are generally the 
 property of the ordinary labourers and artisans. 
 How different their lot from that of the crowded 
 denizens of our great cities ! 
 Defences of The defence of South Australia has not been 
 
 South 
 
 Australia neglected. The military forces comprise^ 
 
 Officers Men 
 
 Permanent Artillery - . .2 45 
 Militia — 
 
 Cavalry . . . .6 60 
 
VI.— KING GEORGE'S SOUND TO ADELAIDE 33 
 
 
 Officers 
 
 Meu 
 
 Field Ai'tillery 
 
 6 
 
 75 
 
 Garrison Artillery . 
 
 6 
 
 120 
 
 Infantry 
 
 , 40 
 
 630 
 
 Medical Corps 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 Militia Reserve 
 
 6 
 
 120 
 
 The permanent defences comprise : — 
 
 Volunteers- 
 Mounted Infantry . . .8 120 
 Infantry . . . .75 1,200 
 Fort Glanville : Two 20-ton 10-in. R.M.L. guns 
 
 Two 64-pr. E.M.L. guns 
 Fort Largs : Two 12-ton 9-in. R.M.L. guns 
 Two 80-pr. R.M.L. guns 
 
 The forts were built under the advice of Sir 
 William Jervois. Another battery is proposed 
 near Glenelg. 
 
 An inspection of the 'Protector ' was the last The 'Pro- 
 incident of my visit to Adelaide. The ' Protector ' 
 is a gunboat, built by Sir William Armstrong & 
 Company, powerful for harbour defence, and 
 capable of cruising. The armament includes one 
 8-inch and four 6-inch B.L. guns, with four quick 
 firing guns. 
 
 VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 
 
 June 2. — The wind blowing strong from the 
 north-west we proceeded down the gulf under 
 reefed canvas. In the afternoon the wind shifted 
 to the south-west, increasing to a fresh gale with 
 heavy squalls. We determined not to proceed 
 to sea under such unfavourable conditions. The 
 VOL. II. D 
 
34 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Ijay-to sails were closely reefed, and we lay-to for the 
 night under the shelter of Kangaroo Island. 
 
 June 3. — The weather improved rapidly after 
 
 Proceed midnight. At daylight all plain sail was set. At 
 nine we cleared Backstairs Passage, the eastern 
 approach from the ocean to the harbour of 
 Adelaide. On reaching the open water, the 
 weather rapidly -changed. In the afternoon we 
 
 Experience were Overtaken by a gale from ihe south-west. 
 
 west gale We kept too far out to sea to make any prominent 
 landmarks, but we were fortunate in being able to 
 fix the ship's position by observations. Without 
 this check on the dead reckoning we should 
 scarcely have ventured to run before the gale 
 towards the dangerous reefs and outlying rocks at 
 the western entrance to Bass's Straits. The gale 
 continued with unabated violence through the 
 night of the 3rd and through the following day. 
 At sunset on June 4 we were overtaken by a 
 furious squall. At 11 p.m., running at the rate of 
 eleven knots, we obtained soundings with Sir 
 William Thomson's invaluable instrument at a 
 
 Make Cape depth of sixty fathoms. At midnight we made 
 
 otway ^j^g \\^i on Cape Otway, and when our exact 
 distance was obtained by bearings, we found that, 
 strong as the wind had been from the westward, 
 we had experienced no current setting to the east- 
 ward. 
 
 After rounding Cape Otway, the wind drew 
 round to the north-west, and blew with increasing 
 force, Steering for Port Phillip we were under a 
 
Vn.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 
 
 35 
 
 weather shore, protected from the heavy seas 
 which were sweeping the southern coast of 
 Austraha. 
 
 At 9 A.M. on the 6th we took a pilot on board. 
 With a favourable gale and a flood tide, running 
 at seven knots an hour, we dashed swiftly between 
 the heads into the smooth waters of Port Phillip. Enter Port 
 The long line of sandy beach, and the cliffs and ' '^ 
 hummocks on which are erected the lighthouses 
 and signal station, presented a wild and weird 
 scene on this stormy morning. Mliile rmming 
 for Hobson's Bay we did the distance of- twenty- 
 two miles from the Pile Light to Williamstown in 
 one hour and forty minutes. 
 
 Analysis op Log 
 
 Analysis of 
 Adelaide to Melbourne log 
 
 
 Dktaxce 
 
 Position- at Nook 
 
 Date 
 
 
 
 
 .Siiil 
 
 Steam 
 
 Latitude 
 
 Longitude 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 June 3 
 
 .5 
 
 14 
 
 Sailed from Adelaide 
 
 „ 3 
 
 103 
 
 — 
 
 36- 6 S. 
 
 138-23 E. 
 
 „ 4 
 
 200 
 
 — 
 
 38-47 S. 
 
 140-55 E. 
 
 >i 5 
 
 225 
 
 
 
 38- 8 S. 
 
 144-48 E. 
 
 „ 6 
 
 29 
 
 — 
 
 Arrived at Melbourne 
 
 1 
 
 June 7. — Accompanied Sir Henry Loch to the Melbourne 
 opening of Parliament. The ceremony was con- 
 ducted with becoming dignity. In the evening 
 attended a banquet, an account of which I give as Attend a 
 reported in the Melbourne 'Daily Telegraph : ' — banquet 
 
 ' To celebrate the Jubilee, of Her Majesty 
 
 D 2 
 
36 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 188C-87 
 
 Queen Victoria, the members of the PubUc Service 
 of Victoria decided to hold a banquet. This they 
 did in the Athenaeum Hall last night, when a 
 most brilliant assemblage gathered to do honour 
 to Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen, on the 
 occasion of her attaining the fiftieth year of her 
 reign. There were present Mr. E. L. J. Ellery 
 (president of the Public Service Association) in 
 the chair, his Excellency the Governor, Lord 
 Brassey, Mr. Anderson (Deputy-Master of the 
 Mint), Dr. Brownless (Chancellor of the Univer- 
 sity), Mr. T. J. Connolly (president of the Austra- 
 lian Natives' Association), and many others. The 
 toast of the Queen and of His Excellency the 
 Governor having been proposed and warmly re- 
 ceived, 
 sFi^Henr* ' ^^^' Henry Loch, who was received with loud 
 
 Loch and prolonged cheering, said : — I feel deeply touched 
 
 and sensible of the very kind and cordial reception 
 with which the toast of my health has been re- 
 ceived ; and I have very great pleasmre in being 
 here this evening to meet so many members of 
 the Civil Service of Victoria. When I say the 
 Civil Service of Victoria I connect it in my mind, 
 and not only in mind but in fact, with the Civil 
 Service at home, with the Civil Service through- 
 out the vast empire over which our good Queen 
 reigns. Eor we all are civil servants of the Queen 
 — and I think Englishmen ought to be proud of 
 the high reputation which the Civil Service of the 
 empire holds in the estimation of all the nations in 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOUENE S7 
 
 the world. There are many here who will endorse 
 my opinion that that Service is the backbone of Work of 
 the country. It enables the work of the country service 
 to be carried out. It ensm'es two essentials— it 
 enables the fullest information to be supplied to 
 the Government of the day with regard to the 
 various important departments to which they be- 
 long ; and ensures a certain continuity in the 
 general prosperity of the internal government of 
 the country, which is an essential for its happi- 
 ness and prosperity. We have amongst us to- 
 night a gentleman of eminence (Lord Brassey), 
 who has come to visit this and other colonies, 
 coming with a strong desire, as I have every 
 reason to believe, to cement the feelings of attach- 
 ment which bind the mother country and the 
 colony together, and I am sure he will receive a 
 cordial welcome at your hands. 
 
 ' Lord Brassey said that before he proceeded Speech of 
 to say a few words for the purpose of recommend- Brassey 
 ing the important toast of " The Public Service," 
 perhaps they would allow him, as coming from 
 the old country, to say what deep gratification he 
 felt in witnessing the warm manifestations of 
 loyalty which were to be seen in the Jubilee in 
 this colony on every side. The sentiment of 
 loyalty to the throne, and to the gracious lady who 
 for fifty years and through many vicissitudes had 
 filled the throne so well, was one of the many links 
 which bound together the widely scattered but, 
 he hoped, deeply and strongly united members of 
 
38 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 the British empire. He continued : — I might well 
 have shrunk from undertaking to propose an im- 
 portant toast this evening. I did not do so, 
 because I desire to omit no opportunity of testify- 
 ing to the deep interest v^^hich every thoughtful 
 Englishman, which every Englishman who has 
 shared any degree in the responsibilities of govern- 
 ment, must feel in the welfare of the colonies. In 
 the moral and material progress of this great and 
 growing colony, the Civil Service, it is needless to 
 say, must play a great part. The sense of honour, 
 the devotion to duty, the efficiency of the Civil Ser- 
 vice, isof supreme importance in a country governed 
 by ministers dependent on parhamentary majorities. 
 Pariiaraen- The voicc of the pcoplc, to whicli evcn Parlia- 
 
 tary go- j. j. ' 
 
 Teinmeiit meuts must bow, does not always speak m the 
 same accents. It does not always approve the 
 same policy. It does not always choose the same 
 men. Having at its disposal many candidates for 
 employment, the people do not unwisely make 
 choice of different men for different occasions. 
 The result of a parliamentary system is that 
 ministers are fortune's varying favoxirites. The 
 tenure of office is short. Great departments are 
 being constantly entrusted to men who, however 
 capable of indicating principles and a line of policy, 
 must depend for execution and administration on 
 Permanent the permanent staff of their department. Far be 
 partments it from me to speak slightingly of parliamentary 
 officials. On the contrary, I hope that parlia- 
 mentary office may be more and more the ambition 
 
VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 39 
 
 of the best men in the colonies, as it is at home. 
 Far be it from me to speak sKghtingly of the in- 
 vigorating influences from without which are ex- 
 ercised by the Press and by pubUc opinion. But 
 my duty on the present occasion is to speak of 
 the Civil Service. And speaking in Victoria from 
 my experiences at home, I desire to pay my hearty 
 tribute to the eminent abilities which here, I am a tribute 
 sure, not less than at home, are often employed civii 
 in the public service, for a slender reward in money, ^^^"'^'^ 
 and with little stimulus from the hope of personal 
 fame. The minister stands conspicuous. All his 
 deeds are chronicled. When all goes well he re- 
 ceives perhaps more praise than he deserves, and 
 when the tide turns against him he receives un- 
 merited blame. In my service at the Admiralty 
 I had experience of both. The Civil Service is 
 not stimulated by the same hopes or the same 
 fears, and the fact that such excellent work is 
 done, by men whose duties are often monotonous 
 and obscure, is a claim on the gratitude of the 
 public. I am aware that your chairman to-night 
 is at the head of a great scientific institution not 
 connected with the general administration of the 
 Civil Service. His presence in the chair is another 
 proof of the wide extent of the duties which in 
 every department must be undertaken by the 
 government of a civilised country. As a country 
 advances it demands not less but more from its 
 government. Education in elementary subjects 
 expands to literatm-e, to art, to science. I am 
 
40 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 glad that one noble branch of science, one to which 
 we navigators are above all men indebted, has 
 been entrusted in this colony to an eminent man, 
 whom it is a great pleasure to me to have the 
 opportunity of connecting with this toast.' 
 
 On June 9 I went to G-eelong in the ' Sunbeam ' 
 to meet Lady Brassey. The distance — nearly forty 
 miles — will give some idea of the wide extent of 
 Port Phillip Harbom-. From Geelong the journey 
 to Ballarat is accomplished by railway in less than 
 
 Yi^it two hours. 
 
 Ballarat Ballarat is the second city in Victoria, and is 
 
 in the centre of the richest gold-mining district in 
 the world. It has a population of more than 
 30,000. Its public buildings, counting-houses, 
 shops, and streets are the external indications of 
 a high degree of prosperity. The park, recently 
 formed round a natural lake of considerable ex- 
 tent, affords a charming place of recreation. 
 
 Gold mines The yield of gold since its first discovery in 
 Austraha is estimated at 300,000,000?. Of this 
 total Victoria has contributed seven-tenths. The 
 present output is from 700,000 to 800,000 ounces 
 per annum. Gold is obtained from alluvium and 
 from quartz rock. The alluvial workings on the 
 surface were soon exhausted. Those now worked 
 are the beds of ancient rivers, and can only be 
 reached by the ordinary methods of mining. "We 
 visited the Midas, one of these alluvial mines. The 
 operations are carried on under the supervision of 
 
VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURKE 41 
 
 a lady, who has provided most of the capital, and 
 a large share of the technical skill required. The 
 results under this novel system of administration 
 give satisfactory promise. 
 
 On our return from Ballarat we remained a 
 day at Geelong. It is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, Geeiong 
 well situated at the head of the western arm of 
 Port Phillip Bay. The distant views are extremely 
 fine. The town has streets and buildings far be- 
 yond what we should find in a European city of 
 the same size. The Botanical Gardens are on the 
 scale of a park ; the fern houses are a great feature. 
 The Mayor and the municipality are proud of their 
 town and its people. They assured me that the 
 education, both of mind and body, in Geeiong has 
 produced results not rivalled in Australasia. In 
 every town of the colonies the best preacher, the 
 best lawyer, the best doctor, the most thriving 
 merchant, the best cricketers and football players, 
 with rare exceptions, hail from Geeiong. 
 
 We made another excursion from Melbourne 
 on June 14, to attend the opening of the railway 
 connecting the district of Mount Gambler, in South 
 Australia, with the direct line from Adelaide to 
 Melbourne. We travelled to Wolseley by the Excursion 
 ordinary train, the journey occupying from 4 p.m. *° ° ^^ ^^ 
 on June 14 until an early hour on the following 
 morning. At Wolseley we waited several hours 
 for the special train from Adelaide, bringing Sir 
 William Eobinson and the naembers of the Govern- 
 ment who were to assist at the opening. 
 
42 CRUISE TO WBIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 The delay afforded an opportunity for a walk 
 The town round the place. It is a scattered hamlet — a 
 colonial city in its first stage, with all the institu- 
 tions of the future represented in miniature and 
 in the rough. A churbh, a school, an institute, a 
 post-of&ce, already exist. The present buildings 
 are wooden sheds of scanty proportions. In less 
 than a generation they will be replaced by impos- 
 ing structures in stone. The roads and streets, 
 which are now traced only on ambitious plans, 
 will rapidly be formed. The dwelling-houses of 
 Wolseley are of the corrugated iron so extensively 
 iised in Australian building, combined with other 
 materials of a still more temporary character. 
 Canvas in many instances supplies a shelter, until 
 the selector can afford to build in wood or iron. 
 Pioneers of The pionccrs of colonial development have 
 tion "^'^ need of hardihood and energy. They must scorn 
 delights and live laborious days. They must not 
 succumb to the heats of an Australian summer. 
 They must live frugally and temperately. 
 
 If the pioneer of civilisation in unsettled 
 countries leads a life which is rude and laborious, 
 Advan- he has his consolations. He commands in abun- 
 tfil^eoronist dance food, clothing, and all the primary neces- 
 saries of life. He has cheap and good education 
 for his children, fie has the glorious sense of in- 
 dependence. He may have many hazards and 
 reverses— loss of stock, failure of crops, and all 
 the thousand ills of an agricultural career ; but in 
 the long run some measm'e of prosperity is assured 
 
Vll.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOUJlXK 43 
 
 to men who will work hard, and resist the tempta- 
 tions incidental to a rude existence. 
 
 Our friends from Adelaide arrived at three in 
 the afternoon, and after travelling some sixty miles 
 in their pleasant company, through an almost un- 
 inhabited countrj", we reached Mount Gambler at Go on to 
 a late hour in the evening. The village children Gambler 
 were assembled at every station through which we 
 passed. The National Anthem was lustily sung, 
 and in the darkness of the night Sir William 
 Eobinson made weU timed speeches to an invisible 
 auditory. 
 
 June 15. — Mount Gambler is a pleasing town The town 
 of 5,000 inhabitants, in the centre of a district of 
 rich volcanic soil, thrown up over a sandstone 
 formation by the eruptions of a former period, 
 when the surrounding mountains were active 
 volcanoes. The two principal craters are now 
 filled with lakes of great depth, appropriately 
 named, from their beautiful colouring, the Blue 
 Lake and the Green Lake. The scene recalled 
 the charming passage by W. D. Howells : — 'A de- 
 licious freshness breathed from the lake, which, 
 lying so smooth, faded into the sky at last, Avith 
 no line between sharper than that which divides 
 drowsing from dreaming. The colour was a delicate 
 blue, without the depth of the sea blue, but infinitely 
 softer and lovelier ' {Their Wedding Journey). 
 
 Mount Gambler and its neighbouring summits Tiie "e'gji- 
 
 IT rrii bourhood 
 
 have been laid out as a public park, The walks 
 round the ancient craters command beautiful views. 
 
44 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 On the one hand are the lakes, lying still and 
 smooth in the deep hollows, where in a former age 
 the most fearful forces of nature were at work. 
 Looking outwards from the craters a vast and 
 fertile plain expands on all sides, bounded by the 
 ocean on the south, and by distant chains of hills 
 on the north. Here and there the plain is studded 
 with other cones, as distinctly defined as those of 
 Mount Gambler, but on a smaller scale. 
 
 I will not enter in detail upon all the incidents 
 
 Opening of of the Opening of the railway. "We were greeted 
 
 by the school-children with a stirring rendering of 
 
 the National Anthem. The Governor made an 
 
 appropriate speech. We travelled a short distance 
 
 on the line. ^Ye were banqueted in the evening. 
 
 I replied for the visitors and preached federation. 
 
 In the interval between the opening of the 
 
 railway and the banquet, we went out to see a 
 
 A run with run witli the Mount Gambia drags. The timber 
 
 "^^^ fencing would be thought desperate riding in an 
 
 ordinary English hunting-field. The doubles in 
 
 and out of a road are decidedly formidable. INIy 
 
 son was mounted on an animal of high reputation, 
 
 and, more suo, rode hard. 
 
 June 11. — Visited the Wesleyan Chapel at 
 Mount Gambler. The minister described the ex- 
 cellent organisation which enables him to give 
 effective spiritual supervision over a wide district. 
 In the afternoon travelled by special train to Nar- 
 racoote. Had some interesting conversation on 
 the land question. From the railway traffic point 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 45 
 
 of view monopolies in land were severely criticised. Land 
 AVhere tracts of 100,000 or 200,000 acres are in ''"''"™ 
 the hands of a single proprietor, the district does 
 not progress as in cases where the land is subdivided 
 into smaller holdings. The large proprietor con- 
 centrates his energies on sheep. The owner of a objection 
 small tract finds it pay to give a larger proportion hoidmgs 
 of his land to arable cultivation. Subdivision of 
 land encourages population. Monopoly in land 
 has the contrary effect. If the increase of numbers, 
 under good conditions as to standard of living, be 
 one of the aims of government, it follows that con- 
 centration of ownership and occupation is contrary 
 to public policy. The objection disappears where 
 satisfactory arrangements are made for letting the 
 land on liberal terms. In this case the large pro- 
 prietor is a provider of capital, for which he receives 
 interest in the form of rent, at a lower rate than a 
 labourer, with slender security to offer, would be 
 compelled to pay if he were the borrower of money 
 instead of the hirer of land. 
 
 I cannot pass from our visit to Mount Gambia 
 without recording our grateful appreciation of the 
 many kindnesses received from all classes : the 
 large proprietors, the contractors for the railway, 
 the engineers employed by the Government, old 
 members of my father's staff, the Mayor, and above 
 all the ladies of the district. It was most pleasant 
 to see once more the Governor of South Australia Eetmn to 
 and our old friends from Adelaide. We returned 
 to Melbourne on June 18. 
 
46 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 The 
 
 Victorian 
 
 Naval 
 
 Brigade 
 
 force in 
 
 1883 
 
 Additions 
 in 188i 
 
 By invitation of Captain Fullerton, I inspected 
 the naval establishments at Hobson's Bay, both 
 ashore and afloat. I take the following description 
 of the Naval Brigade at Victoria from a pamphlet 
 by Captain Brodrick Thomas, E.N., the naval 
 commandant : — 
 
 ' In 1883 the Victorian Navy consisted of the 
 " Cerberus," armour-clad turret-ship, armed with 
 fom- 18-ton M.L.E. guns, and the " Nelson," 
 \^'Ooden steam frigate, carrying twenty 64-pounder 
 M.L.E. , two 7-inch G8-pounder M.L.E. , and eight 
 32-pounder smooth-bore guns. These ships were 
 manned by a permanent force of 122 officers 
 and men, and a Naval Eeserve, since called the 
 Naval Brigade, consisting of 200 officers and 
 men. 
 
 'In June, 1884, the gunboats "Victoria " and 
 " Albert," and the first-class torpedo-boat " Chil- 
 ders," arrived in Victoria. These gunboats were 
 built by Sir William Armstrong & Co., and armed 
 with E.B.L. guns and machine guns of the latest 
 description. The " Childers " was built by Messrs. 
 Thorny croft, and fitted to fire 15-inch Whitehead 
 torpedoes from bow-tubes or air-guns. 
 
 ' In March, 1884, the " Batman " and " Fawk- 
 ner," two steam hopper barges, intended to carry 
 silt from the dredges in Hobson's Bay to sea, ar- 
 rived. These vessels have been specially strength- 
 ened whilst building to enable them to carry a 
 gun forward. A 64-pounder was mounted on each 
 on their arrival, but these have since been replaced 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNJC 47 
 
 by 6-inch E.B.L. Armstrong guns, and they have 
 also been suppUed with machine-guns. Steel 
 plating, three inches thick, has been placed on 
 these vessels' sides, opposite the engines and 
 boilers, and accommodation has been fitted for 
 officers and men, and shell-rooms and magazines 
 built. 
 
 ' In November, 1885, the " Gannet," a power- 'Gannet' 
 ful 12-knot steam-tug, arrived, and has been armed 
 and fitted in the same manner as the "Batman " 
 and " Fawkner." These three vessels belong to 
 the Harbour Trust, the Government having the 
 use of them for the periodical drills afloat and in 
 case of war. 
 
 ' In July, 1884, the " Nepean " and "Lonsdale," Torpedo- 
 second-class torpedo-boats, were brought out. They 
 are each fitted to fire two 14-inch Whitehead tor- 
 pedoes by steam impulse. 
 
 ' In March, 1886, the " Gordon," 14-knot turn- 
 about torpedo-boat, arrived, fitted with dropping 
 gear and Nordenfelt gun, and with shield for pro- 
 tection of the crew. 
 
 ' In July, 1886, a 12-knot screw steamer, the 
 "Lady Loch," was launched in the Saltwater The 'Lady 
 Eiver. She was built for the Customs Depart- 
 ment, and will be equipped with the same arma- 
 ment as the Harbour Trust vessels. 
 
 ' Of six 6-inch E.B.L. guns which were ordered, Breech- 
 for naval purposes, four have thus been distributed guns 
 among the Harbour Trust and Customs vessels, 
 and it is intended to place another in the stern of 
 
48 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 the " Victoria " ; the sixth is at present tempo- 
 rarily mounted in one of the forts. 
 
 Council of ' A Council of Defence, consisting of the 
 
 Minister of Defence, the Naval and Military 
 Commandants, the Captain of the Naval Brigade, 
 the Senior Commanding Officer of Artillery of the 
 Metropohtan District, and the Senior Command- 
 ing Of&cer of Infantry of the Metropolitan District, 
 had been appointed vs^ith power to reorganise 
 the defences, and shortly after the arrival of the 
 gunboats the reorganisation of the naval forces 
 commenced. 
 
 strength of ' The strength of the permanent force has been 
 increased to 205 officers and men, and that of the 
 Naval Brigade fixed at 305. 
 
 Eatings ' The ratings of training seamen and naval 
 
 apprentices have been established, and by this 
 means the places of men retired for age, or dis- 
 charged as unfit, have been filled up. The ratings 
 of gunnery and torpedo instructor, and of torpedo 
 man and seaman gunner, have been established, 
 and twelve instructors and thirty-six torpedo men 
 and seamen gunners have been rated, after having 
 passed through the same course as is laid down 
 for instructors &c. in the Imperial Navy. 
 
 Torpedo ' A torpedo store has been erected at Williams- 
 
 town, and an air-compressing engine and boiler 
 placed in position. A site for a similar store has 
 been selected in the neighbourhood of the Heads, 
 and the air-compressing engine for it had just been 
 received from England. Large stores and boat 
 
 store 
 
VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 49 
 
 sheds have been built at Williainstown for naval 
 purposes, and torpedo slips and sheds for the 
 torpedo-boats are in course of construction. 
 
 ' Drills of every description have been regularly Drills and 
 and constantly carried out in all the ships, and ii°straction 
 special attention has been paid to practical torpedo 
 work, the torpedo classes, under Lieutenant 
 Hutchinson, having fired 223 shots vpith Wliite- 
 head torpedoes at a target, betvs^een July, 1885, 
 and July, 1886. 
 
 'A considerable number of men have been 
 trained as signalmen in the different descriptions 
 of signalHng by day and night. Fleet manoeuvres Manoeu- 
 have been carried out to a certain extent, in order tactics 
 to accustom officers to handle their ships, and to 
 give them confidence. All the ports in Victoria, 
 from Portland to "Western Port, have been visited, 
 some of the vessels being entirely officered and 
 manned by the Naval Brigade. 
 
 ' The officers of the Naval Brigade have served Officers 
 in the mercantile marine, and the captain and all 
 the lieutenants hold masters' certificates, besides 
 in most cases being qualified pilots for the ports 
 of Victoria. These officers are always available 
 for service, as they now occupy positions in the 
 Harbom' Trust, or other local departments, the 
 captain of the Naval Brigade being the chief 
 harbour-master. The petty officers and men are 
 recruited from the seafaring population of the 
 port, many of them having served in the Imperial 
 Navy, and a considerable number have also served 
 VOL. II. E 
 
50 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 in the Victorian Navy, and joined the brigade on 
 being discharged from that service. 
 Ordmary ' The majority of the brigade are employed in 
 
 ment the tug-boats, dredges, and other vessels belong- 
 
 ing to the Harbour Trust, w^hilst others are 
 employed as lumpers on the wharves, and the re- 
 mainder in miscellaneous occupations. Physically 
 they are a very fine body of men, and they are 
 intelligent, and verj- amenable to discipline. 
 
 ' During the Easter cruises, the ships and tor- 
 pedo-boats have been stationed to defend the 
 Heads and the South and West Channels, acting 
 Co-opera- [y^ conccrt witli the forts ; and a system of com- 
 
 tion with . . 
 
 feits mumcation between ships and forts has been 
 
 established, which enables information as to an 
 enemy's movements, either by land or sea, being 
 conveyed from one to the other between all parts 
 of Port Phillip and the military positions on shore. 
 ' Sham engagements between the ships and the 
 forts, and between one portion of the squadron and 
 the other, have been carried out, and the officers 
 
 boa?^^° of the torpedo-boats have had numerous oppor- 
 
 rractice tunities of attacking vessels proceeding at a high 
 rate of speed, and of becoming acquainted with 
 the sheltered positions at the entrance to the port, 
 from which they can rush out to attack an 
 advancing foe, or to which they can retire for 
 safety. 
 
 Practical ' Manoeuvres have taken place by night as well 
 
 as by day in the narrow channels, and the in- 
 genuity of officers and men has been tested in 
 
. Vn. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 51 
 
 resisting the attacks of torpedo-boats, and in 
 placing obstacles to frustrate or hinder the advance 
 of an enemy's ships or boats. 
 
 ' The time occupied in performing evolutions 
 has been carefully noted, vs'hich has created a 
 wholesome rivah-y between the different ships, 
 and has added considerably to the smartness and 
 efficiency of the squadron. 
 
 ' The routine of the Imperial Navy has been 
 carefully followed, both at sea and in harbour, 
 and every endeavour has been made to accustom 
 officers .and men to the conditions of active 
 s.ervice.' 
 
 June 25. — Hospitably entertained at luncheon 
 by the Victoria Yacht Club. In the evening 
 I was the guest of the Melbourne branch of the 
 Imperial Federation League. The proceedings Dinner of 
 were chronicled in the Melbourne ' Argus ' of periai" 
 Monday, June 27. _ L"'"" 
 
 The chair was occupied by Mr. G. D. Carter, 
 M.L.A., president of the Victorian branch. On 
 his right were the guest, of the evening, the 
 Premier (Mr. Duncan Gillies), and the Post- 
 master-General of Queensland (Mr. M'Donald 
 Paterson) , and on his left the Mayor of Melbourne 
 (Councillor Cain), the President of the. Legislative 
 Comicil (Sir James MacBain), Mr ...Justice Webb, 
 and Mr. Nicholas Fitzgerald, M.L.C. The com- 
 pany included a large number of other prominent 
 citizens, many of them not being members of the 
 League, 
 
52 CUUISfi TO INDIA AND AUST'EALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 After the healths of ' The Queen and His 
 
 Excellency the Governor ' had been drunk, the 
 
 Chairman next proposed the toast of ' Imperial 
 
 Federation,' coupled with the names of Lord and 
 
 Speech of LadyBrassev. On behalf of the Victorian branch 
 
 the Chair- "^ •' . 
 
 man, Mr. of the Imperial Federation League, he thanked 
 Lord Brassey for so cordially accepting their 
 invitation to that banquet. They had no definite 
 views at present on the subject of Imperial 
 federation. The point to which they had got at 
 present was this, that they desired to see the 
 empire united as one inseparable whole. When 
 they remembered that the British Empire oc- 
 cupied about one-seventh of the whole surface, 
 and about one-fourth of the entire population of 
 the earth, they would recognise that it was not an 
 unworthy ambition to desire to belong to such an 
 empire. On behalf of the Victorian branch of 
 the Imperial Federation League, and of the colony 
 generally, he offered a cordial welcome to Lord 
 Brassey, and trusted that he would carry away 
 with him pleasant recollections of his visit to 
 Victoria. 
 
 Lord Brassey, who was received with hearty 
 Speech of applause, said ; — ' Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen, 
 Brassey — As the treasurer of the Imperial Federation 
 League established in London, it affords me the 
 greatest pleasure and gratification to be your 
 guest this evening. Our work in the old country 
 would be of little value unless it were approved 
 and supported by public opinion in these great 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOUENE 53 
 
 and growing colonies. Speaking on behalf of the 
 Imperial Federation League in London, it is 
 proper that I should say that we have no cut- 
 and-dried plans which we are anxious to put for- 
 ward. We see the great difficulties which we Difficulties 
 shall have to contend with in arriving at any tion 
 solution of the question of federation ; but with 
 their growth in population, in wealth, and in 
 resources, we anticipate that we shall see dis- 
 played, more and more, a manly and an inde- 
 pendent resolve on the part of the colonies, not 
 only to make provision for their own defence, but 
 to share in the responsibility of the defence of 
 the united empire ; and as, with your increased 
 participation in the burdens, you must necessarily 
 receive an increased share in determining the 
 policy of the empire, we see looming in the not 
 far distant future the necessity for some further 
 approach to a settlement of the problem of federa- The neces- 
 tion. We do not desire a hasty solution. We settlement 
 should deprecate a hasty solution. We believe ^^^'^°'^ ' 
 that the wisest solution will be of a gradual and 
 piecemeal character, dealing with circumstances 
 as they arise, but for wise action we wish to pave 
 the way by timely and temperate discussion. 
 Gentlemen, the views of the founders of the 
 Imperial Federation League were well put in 
 one of his latest speeches, by a grand statesman 
 of the old country, Mr. W. E. Forster, the first Mr. w.e. 
 president of the league. The idea of the per- federation 
 manent unity of the realm, the duty of preserving 
 
54 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 this union, the blessings which this preservation 
 will confer, the danger and loss and disaster 
 which will follow from disunion, are thoughts 
 which possess the minds of Englishmen both 
 here and over the seas. These thoughts are 
 expressing themselves in deeds ; let this expres- 
 sion continue ; at present it helps our cause far 
 more effectually than any possible scheme. 
 
 ' I am not one of those who ever doubted the 
 The loyalty loyalty of the colonies to Old England — and, 
 colonies gentlemen, if any Englishmen were in doubt as 
 to the feeling of the colonies towards the mother 
 country, the events of the past week in this noble 
 city of Melbourne would dispel effectually any 
 uncertainty in that respect. On Tuesday last we 
 saw your militia march past like a wall, to the 
 tune of " The Old Folks at Home." That homely 
 melody conveyed a touching sentiment to the 
 spectator from the old country. On the following 
 day a ball was given at Government House, an 
 entertainment the splendour of which could 
 hardly have been exceeded in any capital in 
 Europe. That entertainment owed its character 
 not merely to the graceful hospitality of the host 
 and hostess on the occasion, but to the eager 
 desire of those who were present to seize the 
 Attach- occasion for showing their attachment to the 
 
 ment to the . ^ , ., . _ 
 
 Sovereign Queen, m whose honour and m whose name that 
 ball was given. On the following day the hall of 
 your Parliament Buildings, which, by the beauty 
 of their design and the amplitude of their propor- 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 55 
 
 tions, express your greatness in the present and 
 anticipate your growth in the future, was dedi- 
 cated, with a generous spirit of loyalty, to the 
 name of the Queen. On the evening of the same 
 day we attended a concert of colossal proportions, 
 in which on four several and separate occasions 
 the National Anthem was sung, and on each 
 occasion with increasing fervour. On the follow- Popularity 
 ing day 30,000 children were brought together. National 
 trained to utter the sentiments of their parents in 
 that National Anthem which they sang so well. 
 In journeying in some of the remoter parts of this 
 colony, it was touching to hear the same anthem 
 sung at every opportunity by the little children, 
 who are thus early trained in the sentiment of 
 loyalty. 
 
 ' If we pass from these momentary incidents of 
 the week to circmnstances of a more permanent 
 and perhaps more serious character, what are the 
 conclusions which an intelligent traveller from 
 the old country may draw, with reference to the 
 ties which bind the colonies to the mother 
 country ? If he looks at your society and your 
 family life, he finds the same manners, the same similarity 
 
 iT",.i £ • • • i_ in life and 
 
 habits, the same ways ot viewing circumstances habits of 
 and things. Your English tastes are shown in andthe** 
 the houses which you build, the clothes which English 
 you wear, the food which you eat, and in the 
 goods you buy. The national character of the 
 Anglo-Saxon race is shown as strongly here as in 
 the mother country in your spirited devotion to 
 
56 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 manly sports and pastimes ; and when we think 
 of the other ties that bind us— a common faith, a 
 common hterature, the same dear mother tongue 
 — it seems to me that no other conclusion can be 
 drawn by the intelligent traveller than this-^that 
 the ties which bind the colonies to the mother 
 country are stronger than those which any legis- 
 lature or statesmanship could contrive, and that 
 they are inherent in the innermost life of the 
 people. Gentlemen, you may call the union 
 which binds us an empire, you may call it a 
 federation, you may call it an offensive and de- 
 fensive alliance of the closest kind — you may call 
 it what you will — the name is of subordinate 
 consequence while mutual sj^mpathy and senti- 
 ment retain that binding force which, as we have 
 seen in this Jubilee week, you are so generously 
 prepared to acknowledge in your relations with 
 the old country, 
 tages'of ' Perhaps I may say a few words on this occa- 
 
 remaiiiing gion with reference to the mutual advantages 
 which are afforded by our remaining together as 
 members of a united empire. There was a time 
 when the connection was less valued than it is at 
 present by some of the eminent statesmen of the 
 old country. Since the days of which I speak 
 great changes have taken place. The map of 
 Europe has been reconstructed on the principle of 
 the recognition of nationalities. The Germans 
 have made themselves into a nation ; the Italians 
 have made themselves into a nation. Our tight 
 
YII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 57 
 
 easy by 
 science 
 
 little island is small indeed in area, in comparison 
 with the great territories of Continental Europe. 
 It is small in area, but if we and the children from 
 us — these great English-speaking nations which 
 have overspread the world — remain united together, 
 we are the first of the nationalities of Europe. 
 There are indications that the maintenance of 
 the unity of the British Empire may be less 
 difficult than might perhaps in former days have 
 been anticipated. Science has done much to Made more 
 shorten distances : it has given us the electric 
 telegraph, an improved and improving steamship, 
 and railways. As the colonies grow in import- 
 ance, it must necessarily follow that the Imperial 
 policy will be concentrated more and more upon 
 objects which are common to them and to the 
 mother country. The foreign pohcy will be directed 
 to the maintenance in security of the communica- 
 tions between the mother country and the colonies, 
 an object of common interest to yourselves and to 
 ourselves. Looking forward to a not very distant 
 time, it is evident that your growth in population 
 and power will be such that you will have a domi- 
 nant influence in the waters adjacent to your own 
 shores. Yourrelations with India will become closer Eeiations 
 and closer. You will be in a position not less 
 strong than that occupied by the mother country, 
 and your interest will be as great as that of the 
 mother country, perhaps, in preventing the hoist- 
 ing of any flag hostile to your own upon the ports 
 of India. I believe that all the countries that are 
 
 with India 
 
j8 CRriSE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 now parts of the British Empire will hold to- 
 gether, because I believe that it will be for their 
 advantage to do so. Looking at it from the point 
 of view of a citizen of the old country, have we 
 not found in the recent movements of commerce 
 a strong illustration of the maxim that trade 
 follows the flag ? While other branches of our 
 Trade with foreign trade have been languishing, the trade with 
 the colonies has remained flourishing and elastic. 
 And looking at it from your point of view, there 
 are some considerations which are obvious. We 
 lend you our capital on much easier terms than 
 we would ask if you were under a foreign flag, 
 and we hold before you in external relations the 
 shield of a great empire. The advantages of the 
 present arrangement, from a colonial point of view, 
 were happily put a short time ago in a speech by 
 Sir John Macdonald, from which I will ask leave 
 to quote two or three sentences. Speaking at 
 Macdonald Montreal, he said : — " We want no independence 
 on the in- in this couutry, except the independence that we 
 of Canada is at this moment. What country in the world 
 have more independent than we are ? We have 
 perfect independence ; we have a Sovereign who 
 allows us to do as we please. We have an Im- 
 perial Government that casts on ourselves the 
 responsibilities as well as the privileges of self- 
 government. We may govern ourselves as we 
 please, we may misgovern ourselves as we please. 
 We put a tax on the industries of our fellow 
 subjects in England, Ireland, and Scotland. If 
 
VII.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 59 
 
 we are attacked, if our shores are assailed, the 
 mighty powers of England on land and sea are 
 used in our defence.' 
 
 ' There may be some who think that the union union of 
 of the empire cannot be maintained, because it is age as''"'' 
 difficult to reconcile the impetuosity of youth ?p?I'^'' 
 with the prudence of old age. They think that colonies 
 you may be inchned to make a rush for an object 
 in the impetuosity of youth, and that }ou will 
 resent the perhaps excessive prudence with which 
 the mother comitry holds you back. Upon a wise 
 view of it, we find in the characteristic qualities — 
 each quality having, of course, its corresponding 
 defect — of youth and age, one reason more why 
 it may be prudent for you, who are young, to 
 remain in one common bond with the more aged 
 mother country. The father of the philosophy of 
 history, Thucydides, has put into the mouth of 
 Alcibiades a view of this subject which contains a 
 great truth : — ' Consider that youth and age have view of 
 no power unless united ; but that the lighter and Jy™ides 
 the more exact and the middle sort of judgment, 
 when duly attempered, are likely to be most effi- 
 cient." I hope that that philosophic view of the 
 great Greek writer will be illustrated by the wise 
 policy with which the affairs of the British Empire 
 may be conducted, by the mutual and combined 
 influence of the young colonies and of the dear 
 old mother land. 
 
 ' I feel grateful to you for having invited me to personal 
 be your guest on this occasion, and I particularly '''^™**» 
 
GO CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1880-87 
 
 Visit of 
 Sailors' 
 Rest Com- 
 mittee to 
 ' Sunbeam ' 
 
 appreciate the presence of so many eminent men 
 at your table. They have assembled here not to 
 pay a compliment to me as an miv^^orthy in- 
 dividual. They have come here to express the 
 deep interest they feel in the important question 
 upon which the Imperial Federation League is 
 engaged. Gentlemen, I shall go back to Old 
 England deeply touched by the love which I have 
 seen the people of these colonies show to that 
 mother country, that dear Old England, whose 
 greatest pride it is to have been the mother of 
 mighty nations. I cannot sit down without 
 acknowledging on behalf of Lady Brassey the 
 kindness which you have shown in the mention 
 of her name.' 
 
 June 27. — The day opened with the proceedings 
 described as under in the ' Argus ' : — 
 
 ' The ladies' committees of the Sailors' Eest 
 at Port Melbourne and Williamstown were re- 
 ceived yesterday forenoon by Lord and Lady 
 Brassey on board their yacht, the " Sunbeam." 
 Opportunity was taken by Mr. Hugh E. Eeid to 
 thank Lord and Lady Brassey for the great and 
 practical interest taken by them in the welfare of 
 seamen. Statistics were given showing the large 
 numbers of sailors coming here every year, and a 
 hope was expressed that better and more sub- 
 stantial structures would be provided ere long for 
 the Sailors' Eests of this port. Lord Brassey, 
 in reply to Mr. Eeid's remarks, spoke feelingly 
 of the work done at home by Miss Weston in 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 61 
 
 striving to better the condition of sailors. That 
 lady not only contributed liberally of her means, 
 but also brought a winning influence to bear on 
 the sailors, whose best interests she had so much 
 at heart. Lady Brassey also addressed some 
 observations to the committees, and took the 
 opportunity of advocating the cause of the St. 
 John Ambulance Association, in which she felt a 
 very deep interest.' 
 
 Having given a diary of our proceedings at 
 Melbourne from the columns of the local Press, I 
 proceed to make a few observations and to offer General 
 
 T • , ■ J. 11 I remarks on 
 
 some descriptions of a general character. victoria 
 
 The Government of Victoria is fortunate in 
 having in their service a statist, Mr. H. H. Hayter, 
 who has bestowed rare industry and ability in the 
 compilation of exhaustive information on the con- 
 dition of the country. The following facts and 
 figures are taken from a pamphlet he has recently 
 published : — 
 
 The population of Victoria may be estimated Population 
 
 -■ T , •■11 • J- J. •! i. J andclimate 
 
 m round numbers at one million, distributed over 
 an area only slightly inferior to that of Great 
 Britain. The colony is happy in its climate. The 
 temperature compares with that of Bordeaux and 
 Nice, though vdth far less difference between 
 summer and winter than is experienced in Europe. 
 Upon the average, on four days during the year, 
 the thermometer rises above 100 degrees in the 
 shade, while on three nights it falls below freezing 
 point. The ordinary annual rainfall is 26 inches. 
 
62 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Produc- 
 tions 
 
 Sheep, 
 wine, &c. 
 
 Railway 
 system 
 
 Growth of 
 Melbourne 
 
 The soil of Victoria is favourable for the 
 growth of cereals, the produce of wheat being four- 
 teen bushels to the acre. Vegetables and fruit, 
 both of the temperate and tropical zones, olive 
 trees, hops, mulberry trees, and the tobacco plant 
 grow luxmiantly. The breeding of live stock has 
 attained to great proportions. The flocks of Vic- 
 toria number eleven million sheep, and the wool is 
 of the finest quality. The production of wine 
 promises well. In 1883-84 the vineyards covered 
 an area of 7,326 acres. The wine produced in the 
 previous season amounted to over 700,000 gallons. 
 Australian wine commands a ready sale in Europe. 
 Great pains have been taken to follow the methods 
 of manufactm'e as practised in the best wine- 
 growing countries of Europe. 
 
 The settlement of the colony has been greatly 
 accelerated by the policy of retaining the entire 
 system of railways in the hands of the State. A 
 Government may prudently push railways into 
 sparsely inhabited districts, relying on the develop- 
 ment of the traffic in the future. Private enter- 
 prise must look to immediate profits. The great 
 boon of easy railway communication has been 
 secured at an inconsiderable cost to the State, the 
 net receipts being already nearly sufficient to cover 
 the interest on the loans raised to meet the cost of 
 construction. 
 
 Agricultm-e and gold mining are the primary 
 sources of that accumulation of wealth of which 
 Melbourne is the embodiment. Splendid indeed 
 
VU.— ADELAIDE TO MELBOURXE 63 
 
 is the superstructure which has been reared upon 
 these foundations. Scarcely fifty years have 
 elapsed since the first streets of what is now a 
 great city were traced upon the shores of a deso- 
 late inlet. Yet Melbourne will already compare 
 with the noblest of our provincial cities. Mel- 
 bourne has this special advantage over cities of 
 equal population in the old country. It is the 
 seut of a Government for a flourishing and ad- 
 vancing country, whose public wealth is freely 
 spent in the erection of handsome public build- 
 ings. 
 
 Melbourne is built on hilly ground on both 
 sides of the river Yarra. Its streets are laid out on 
 the rectangular plan, broken here and there by 
 handsome squares and extensive parks. The 
 Botanical Gardens are unrivalled in any city of the The 
 New or Old World. They extend over one hun- ot^^nf 
 dred acres. Their situation, on the south side of 
 the Yarra, in a commanding position above the 
 city, has been most happily chosen. The undu- 
 lating nature of the ground has offered great op- 
 portunities for landscape gardening which have 
 been skilfully used. Shrubs are planted in groups. 
 In each shrubbery the vegetation of a particular 
 locality, as for instance the islands of the Pacific, 
 the Eastern Archipelago, and the several colonies 
 of Australia, is illustrated botanically in the most 
 instructive and effective manner. 
 
 Government House stands in grounds adjacent House of 
 to the Botanical Gardens. As an of&cial residence 2°'*'''™°'^ 
 
64 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 the building has been speciahy adapted for the 
 duties of hospitahty. The house overlooks Mel- 
 bourne, and the formation of the ground lends a 
 peculiar charm to the distant view of the city. 
 The numerous elevations have furnished admirable 
 sites for the public buildings, while the formality 
 of the rectangular plan of its streets is broken by 
 graceful slopes and frequent changes of level. The 
 eye follows with delight the windings of the Yarra 
 through the heart of the town. On its left bank 
 are the dense groves of Studley Park and the green 
 slopes of the Botanical Gardens. On its right bank 
 the streets of Melbourne descend by rapid declivi- 
 ties to its refreshing waters. 
 Public Melbourne is rich in public buildings and public 
 
 institutions. The Houses of Parliament, in pro- 
 cess of construction, contain a central hall of noble 
 proportions, ■\\'hich was dedicated, on the occasion 
 of the Jubilee, to the Queen. The chambers occu- 
 pied by the two branches of the Legislature, and 
 the library, are handsome and convenient for the 
 discharge of public business. In another fine 
 building accommodation is provided for the public 
 library, picture gallery, and industrial museum. 
 The library contains a fine collection of books, and 
 is thronged with readers. Throughout the colony 
 the example of Melbourne is followed, with as 
 large a measure of liberality as the local resources 
 permit. No less than 229 libraries and institutes 
 are established in the towns and villages. The 
 study of design and of applied science is encouraged 
 
 buildings 
 
VII. "-ADELAIDE TO MELBOUKXE 65 
 
 by liberal grants in aid of the numerous schools in 
 the colony. 
 
 The Observatory of Melbourne is adjacent to The obser- 
 the Botanical Gardens. It has long been in exist- ^^ '^ 
 ence, and is maintained in the highest state of 
 efficiency tinder the able directorate of Major 
 Ellery. The great telescope is one of the finest 
 instruments in the world. Some of the photographs 
 of the moon taken at Melbourne are said to sur- 
 pass anything yet obtained elsewhere. 
 
 Melbourne has a University located in hand- Tiie 
 some buildings. The great hall, built by Sir 
 Samuel Wilson, is a noble piece of architecture. 
 A college in connection with the Church of 
 England, and another in connection with the 
 Presbyterian Church, are affiliated to the Uni- 
 versity. By letters patent, the degrees in any 
 faculty, except divinity, are recognised as fully 
 as those granted in any university of the United 
 Kingdom. The University is well attended. 
 Special attention has been given to the training of 
 students in the medical school. 
 
 A branch of the Boyal Mint was established in The Mint 
 Melbourne in 1872. Between that date and the 
 end of 1883, 23,176,000 sovereigns had been issued. 
 
 The Municipal Buildings contain a noble hall, Municipal 
 capable of holding 4,000 persons, and furnished ^ '°° 
 with a grand organ. It was here that we had the 
 pleasure of hearing Miss Amy Sherwin, the 
 Tasmanian songstress, in one of her great concerts. 
 
 Among the churches the most remarkable is 
 VOL. II, V 
 
66 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Melbourne 
 races 
 
 The 
 suburbs 
 
 Churches the Presbyterian, in the Early English style, built 
 of stone of the finest quality. A cathedral of the 
 Church of England is now being built from the 
 designs of Mr. Butterfield. 
 
 Melbourne abounds in the means of amusement. 
 Cricket and football are much played. The 
 grounds are equal to anything in London. The 
 race-course is well situated and well appointed. At 
 the famous Melbourne Cup meeting, early in 
 November, 150,000 persons are usually present. 
 They assemble from every part of Australasia. 
 The number of fatal accidents is the grave objec- 
 tion to racing as carried out at Melbourne. The 
 steeplechase course is too severe. 
 
 Melbourne is encircled by a group of suburbs, 
 with a united population considerably larger than 
 that of the city proper. These suburbs are, much 
 resorted to by the working classes, the greater 
 majority of whom are the owners of the houses 
 they occupy. The payment of rent is particularly 
 repugnant to the working people of all classes in 
 Australia, and especially to the artisans. They 
 Housing of generally manage to provide all the accommodation 
 ing classes they require entirely on the ground floor. In the 
 rear of the cottages the space is generally sufficient 
 for a small garden. In the front, the ample circu- 
 lation of air is secured by streets of great breadth. 
 Facilities for the purchase of freeholds are offered 
 to working men by numerous building societies, 
 whose capital is chiefly supplied by the contribu- 
 tions of the working men, 
 
VII. — ADELAIDE TO MELBOURNE 67 
 
 Hobson's Bay is the natural harbour of Mel- Hobson'a 
 bourne. It affords ample space for the large fleets shaping, 
 of merchant-ships, for the most part of heavy daUonX" 
 draught, which are generally to be found in this 
 busy seaport. Stevedoring and other occupations 
 incidental to the shipping trade have drawn a con- 
 siderable population to the shores of Hobson's Bay. 
 Williamstown, on the south side of the Bay, and 
 Sandridge, on the north, are connected by railway 
 with Melbourne, the distance from Sandridge as 
 the crow flies being little more than two miles. 
 From the Sandridge shore two piers project, 530 
 and 730 yards respectively, into 20 feet of water. 
 Vessels of the largest dimensions can lie alongside. 
 The jetties are fitted with numerous steam cranes 
 to facilitate the discharge and loading of cargoes. 
 At Williamstown are several docks and slips. The 
 principal graving dock is capable of receiving the 
 most powerful ironclads despatched to these waters. 
 The dimensions are — length 470 feet, breadth 80 
 feet, depth 27 feet. 
 
 The river Yarra flows into Hobson's Bay. Its The Yan-a 
 shallow winding channel has been considerably 
 improved by engineering works. Ships of 2,000 
 tons can ascend the Yarra into the heart of the 
 city of Melbourne. 
 
 VIII. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 
 
 June 28. — We had intended to sail in the 
 morning, but were detained by a dense fog, which 
 
 F 2 
 
68 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 188G-87 
 
 Leave did not disperse until daybreak on the 29th. At 
 9 A.M. the pilot came on board, and we proceeded 
 to sea. "We passed through the narrow entrance 
 between Port Phillip Heads under a great press of 
 canvas, with studding sails set alow and aloft, and 
 with a slashing breeze in our favour. At 5 o'clock 
 in tlie afternoon we bade farewell to the pilot. 
 Proceeding on our voyage with light off-shore 
 breezes, at daylight on the 30th we made the light 
 
 Wilson's on Wilson's Promontory, and three hours later we 
 
 Promon- , • p i i • 
 
 toi-y rounded this southernmost pomt of the Australian 
 
 continent. The promontory is formed by rugged 
 mountains, 2,000 feet in height, thickly wooded to 
 their summits with the Australian gum tree. We 
 passed between the promontor}- and Eodonto 
 Island, a conspicuous conical mass of granite, 
 rising to a peak 1,150 feet above the sea, visible in 
 clear weather at thirty miles. An archipelago of 
 islands extends from Rodonto to the north-eastern 
 corner of the Tasmanian coast. 
 
 After rounding Wilson's Promontory steam 
 was raised, and we pushed on through a calm 
 which lasted through the night of June 30- July 1, 
 and was followed by a fresh breeze from the 
 N.N.W., with squalls of rain. At sunset on July 1 
 
 Round ^ye rounded Cape Howe. Making good running 
 with fresh, off-shore winds, at dawn on July 2 we 
 passed through the narrow channel between 
 Montague Island and the mainland of New South 
 Wales. As the sun rose a breeze sprang up from 
 the north-west, and at 10,15 a,m, we were under 
 
Vm.— MELBOUHNE TO SYDNEY 69 
 
 all plain sail, steering nearly due north, keeping at 
 a distance of about a mile from the shore. It was 
 interesting to be reminded of the early explorations 
 of Captain Cook, in the numerous names given by 
 him, as the first discoverer of this coast, and still 
 retained. Upright Point, the termination of a 
 ridge of hills extending to the westward, was so 
 named from its perpendicular cliffs. To the north 
 of Upright Point the coast is broken by the deep 
 indentation of Bateman's Bay and by groups of 
 picturesque islands. Between Bateman's Bay 
 and Cape St. George the range of mountains 
 which runs parallel to the coast of New South 
 AYales culminates in those remarkable summits 
 Cook's Pigeon House, Table Hill, and Mount 
 Sydney, 2,496 feet in height. Tliis group, in the 
 perfect weather with which we were favoured, 
 presented a scene of great beauty. At the foot of Beauty of 
 these hills, skirting the shore, are flat, rich, agri- scenery 
 cultural lands, extending from Cook's Pigeon 
 House to Ulladulla, a melodious name derived 
 from the language of the aborigines of Australia. 
 At sunset we were close in shore off the lighthouse 
 on Cape St. George. A signal-station has been cape st. 
 established at this important landfall, which is in ^^°'^s<' 
 telegraphic communication with Sydney. During 
 the night we were favoured with a fresh breeze off 
 the land. 
 
 At daylight on the morning of the 3rd we hove The 
 to off the entrance to Port Jackson, and took a pj,';^"''" *° 
 pilot on board. As we closed with the land the Jackson 
 
70 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Anchor in 
 
 Watson's 
 
 Bay 
 
 Sydney 
 
 Harbour 
 
 coast assumed a most striking aspect. The en- 
 trance to Port Jackson is a narrow passage between 
 precipitous sandstone cliffs, stretching to the south 
 in a long and massive wall. The morning sun 
 shone brightly on the face of the rich yellow and 
 brown rocks, and on the masses of white foam 
 from the rollers at their base. With an off-shore 
 wind our pilot ventured boldly in, almost to the 
 edge of the breakers. 
 
 We had hoped to make our entrance into 
 Sydney Harbour under sail, but the wind had 
 died away to a calm, the tide was ebbing, and the' 
 pilot recommended steam. With the aid of this 
 convenient source of power, we reached our 
 anchorage in Watson's Bay at an early hour. 
 
 I give the usual analysis of our log from Mel- 
 bourne : — 
 
 Aimlysis of 
 
 Date 
 
 DryTANcr-: 
 
 rosirifiN 
 
 AT NnliN 
 
 Eejiai:ks 
 
 
 Sail , Stetim ' Latitude 1 LoiigituOc 
 
 1887 
 June 30 
 
 July 1 
 „ 2 
 „ 3 
 
 145 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 113 
 
 143 
 142 
 
 7 
 
 South 
 39-3 
 
 37-50 
 35-35 
 
 East 
 14G-42 
 
 149-31 
 150-30 
 
 Hounded Wilson's | 
 ri-oniontory 
 
 Rounded Cape Howe 
 Entered Port Jackson 
 
 Total 
 
 276 
 
 292 
 
 Beauty of Jiiljj 3. — The harbour of Sydney is renowned, 
 
 Jackson and on the propitious day of our arrival the fasci- 
 nation of the scene could be appreciated to the 
 fall. The charm of Port Jackson consists in the 
 
nil. — MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 71 
 
 wide extent of its land-locked waters, its many- 
 picturesque islands, the beautiful indentations of 
 its shores, the imposing position of the city of 
 Sydney and its suburbs, and the rich vegetation, 
 picturesque cottages, and fine country residences, 
 embosomed in trees, which surround the harbour 
 on every side. 
 
 As we steamed slowly up the harbour in the A warm 
 afternoon, we were met by the Royal Naval Artillery 
 Volunteers in their boats, and received a hearty 
 welcome. A number of yachts and sailing-boats 
 accompanied us to Farm Cove, where we dropped 
 anchor. The shore was lined by thousands of 
 spectators, who warmly cheered us as we landed. 
 
 Sydney is protected from attack by sea by bat- Defence of 
 teries on the North and South Heads, and on the 
 principal projecting points inside the harbour. 
 The armaments, supplied from Elswick, include 
 two 25-ton guns, mounted en barbette behind 
 earthen parapets. Both Sydney and Melbourne 
 are easily defended against an enemy unable to 
 effect a landing in force. The entrances to the 
 magnificent harbour, being narrow and of moderate 
 depth, can be secured by torpedoes, and the 
 torpedo defence can be effectively protected by 
 batteries in commanding positions. The spirit 
 and intelligence of the people may be relied upon 
 to make good use of their natural advantages. 
 
 The city of Sydney is built on a peninsula Site of the 
 jutting out from the southern shore of Port Jack- 
 son, between Darling Harbour on the west, and 
 
.72 CRUISE TO -INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Farm Cove on the east. The north face of the 
 peninsula is indented by Sydnej^ Cove. The cir- 
 cular quay suiTounding the cove has a depth of 
 vi^ater sufficient to enable the largest ocean steamers 
 to lie close in shore. The French Messageries 
 Maritimes, the Orient Company, and the P. and 
 0. Company are always represented by their finest 
 ships. The man-of-war anchorage at Farm Cove 
 offers a striking contrast to the busy scene of com- 
 merce in Sydney Cove, being surrounded by the 
 green slopes and plantations of Government House, 
 the Botanical Gardens, and the park-like domain 
 beyond, extending to Point Macquarie, the eastern 
 horn of the bay. 
 
 Government House, a building in the Tudor 
 style, commands a glorious view of the harbour. 
 Attractive The great attractions of Sydney consist in the 
 
 views of the . jT j.n i i t ■ x • xi 
 
 iiaibour views 01 the harbour from many points in the 
 heart of the city, in the picturesque undulations 
 of the site, and in the open spaces, planted with 
 trees, wisely reserved for air and recreation in the 
 most crowded quarters. The date of the oldest 
 part of Sydney is commemorated in the names 
 Pitt, George, Clarence, and York, by which its 
 principal streets are designated. The street archi- 
 tecture is irregular and unequal. The most im- 
 posing f a§ades stand side by side with buildings of 
 meaner character. Eents have been forced up to 
 a fashionable standard, rarely falling below 1,000/. 
 a year. Business must be profitable to bear fixed 
 
Vin. — MELBOUENE TO SYDNEY 73 
 
 charges on such a scale. The shops are for the 
 most part excellently supplied. 
 
 July 4. — The morning of this day was largely 
 occupied with interviews with representatives of 
 the press. In the course of the afternoon we 
 visited the picture gallery, the Roman Catholic Thepioture 
 Cathedral, and the Cathedral of the Church of ^''""■^ 
 England. The picture gallery is in the Park or 
 Domain. The interior only of the gallery is 
 completed, the exterior having been wisely con- 
 sidered the less important portion of the work. 
 The galleries are spacious and well lighted. The 
 amount provided by private bequests and public 
 contributions for the purchase of works of art 
 has already exceeded 30,000Z. The collection 
 includes examples of the most eminent men of 
 the modern English school, selected with excel- 
 lent judgment. These pictures will be a priceless 
 treasure to the people of this colony. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is Eomaii 
 by an eminent disciple in the school of Pugin. cathedral 
 Though only partly completed it affords space for 
 5,000 worshippers. The building is 350 feet in 
 length, 118 feet wide in the transepts, 75 feet 
 wide in the nave, and 90 feet in height. The 
 interior recalls the best features of the old Gothic 
 cathedrals of Europe. The eastern window, by 
 Hardman, of Birmingham, is a noble specimen of 
 modern glass. The Church of England Cathe- 
 dral, also in the Gothic style, is a fine building. 
 
74 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Sydney 
 branch of 
 Eoyal 
 Humane 
 Society 
 
 X umber (if 
 Chintinien 
 
 but of less ambitious proportions. It stands in 
 the centre of the city. 
 
 In the evening we attended the annual 
 meeting of the Eoyal Humane Society in the 
 large exhibition building of Australasia. Origin- 
 ally established in Melbourne, its operations have 
 been extended to the whole of Australasia. The 
 present meeting is the first held out of Melbourne. 
 The primary object is the distribution of awards 
 to all who risk their lives to save their fellow- 
 creatures. A splendid record of deeds of heroism 
 was read by the secretary of the society. The 
 recipients of medals included children of tender 
 age and women, whose bravery and presence of 
 mind fully entitled them to share with men in the 
 distribution of honours. 
 
 July 5. — lu walking through the city I 
 observed with surprise, in certain streets, the 
 large number of shops occupied by Chinamen. 
 Looking to the desire so strongly expressed by 
 the naasses to retain Australia for the Aus- 
 tralians, it is difficult to understand how any 
 business, such as the sale of groceries, or an 
 employment such as market gardening, should 
 have been suffered to fall into the hands of the 
 Chinese. 
 
 It was sad to notice in the crowds thronging 
 the streets no inconsiderable number who bore 
 the marks of penury. Believers in the enticing 
 theories of Mr. George would find from the 
 experience of Australians that all the misery in 
 
VIII.-:I\IELBOUENE TO SYDNEY 75 
 
 the world is not removed by the abohtion of rents 
 and cheap land. 
 
 This afternoon I called on the Commodore of Visit the 
 the German training squadron now lying in these training 
 waters. The four ships forming the squadron — squadron 
 ' Bismarck,' ' Carola,' ' Olga,' and ' Sophia ' — are 
 well adapted to the work in which they are now 
 employed. They have the same good qualities 
 and the same defects that are found in our own 
 ships of the same class. While thoroughly sea- 
 worthy, and sailing fairly, the speed attained is 
 not sufficient to give protection to commerce from 
 a Power having at its disposal the fast steamers 
 of great coal endurance, engaged in the subsidised 
 postal services maintained by the Continental 
 Powers. 
 
 Visited the Universit}^ It stands on a com- The 
 
 -. . . inn University 
 
 mandmg situation, surrounded by a a large space 
 reserved for cricket, football, and pleasure-grounds. 
 The buildings are in the Gothic style of the 
 fifteenth century, from designs by the colonial 
 architects. The great hall is a masterpiece. Its 
 dimensions are — length 135 feet, width 45 feet, 
 height 73 feet. The coloured windows are admi- 
 rable. The late Mr. Anthony TroUope awarded 
 praise justly merited when he wrote, ' The Col- 
 lege Hall is the finest in the colonies. If I were 
 to say that no college either at Oxford or Cam- 
 bridge possesses so fine a hall, I might, perhaps, 
 be contradicted. I certainly remember none of 
 which the proportions are so good.' Colleges are 
 
76 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTE^iLIA IN 1886-87 
 
 affiliated to the University on the model of those 
 of Oxford and Cambridge. 
 Colonial In ti-^e evening Lord and Lady Carrington 
 
 society ° T 1 
 
 gave a dinner at Government House, followed by 
 an evening isarty, at which the guests were 
 entertained with professional recitations and 
 amateur music of unusual excellence. After an 
 extended experience of the kind hospitalities of 
 Government Houses, I am enabled to say that the 
 societies which gather within their walls are 
 essentially identical with the same social order 
 in the old country. Quite a large proportion of 
 the men in easy circumstances have received their 
 education in the public schools and universities at 
 home. Their sisters have enjoyed similar advan- 
 tages, many having passed their girlhood in 
 Europe. 
 Darling Juhj G. — To Darling Point. The road from 
 
 the city to this beautiful suburb skirts the south- 
 ern shore of the harbour. In the character of the 
 houses and their situation it may be compared 
 with the most favoured parts of Torquay or St. 
 Leonards. But Sydney has advantages, to which 
 I have before referred, over our towns on the 
 south coast, in the varied aspects of its noble har- 
 bour, the extended space devoted to gardens and 
 pleasm-e-grounds, and in the richness of the almost 
 tropical vegetation. The sandstone cliffs, the 
 slopes, and the occasional level spaces and natm'al 
 terraces, have offered opportunities for laying out 
 gardens, which have been used with exquisite taste. 
 
VIII. — :\rELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 77 
 
 In the evening we were present at the weekly 
 drill of the Sydney Naval Volunteers. The manual Sydney 
 and cutlass exercises were done with admirable Voiunteera 
 precision. The A^olunteer's then marched into the 
 domain or park attached to Government House, 
 and were exercised in the new attack formation. 
 A numerous detachment went through a course of 
 ambulance instruction, carr^'ing their comrades on 
 stretchers, with limbs bound up with bayonets, 
 scabbards, and rifles, in lieu of splints. All this 
 was done in the dim starlight. 
 
 July 7. — Sydney, in common with Melbourne, 
 Adelaide, and other Australian cities of less note, 
 has been ambitious in the scale of her Municipal Municipal 
 
 . • 1 ,1 Buildings 
 
 Buildings. The Town Hall already rivals the 
 Mansion House of London, and a hall is now 
 being erected which will exceed in size the largest 
 in Great Britain. By the kind invitation of the 
 Mayor we visited this building this morning. To 
 judge from the unfinished structure, the proportions 
 of the hall have been well considered. It will 
 contain a splendid organ, now being made in 
 England. 
 
 July 8. — A gratifying incident occurred to-day. 
 All the old-Hastingers now resident in Syd- 
 ney assembled on board the ' Sunbeam ' to present 
 an address of welcome, beautifully illuminated, Address 
 and adorned with photographs of Sydney. Few residents of 
 among their number could ever expect to see the "^ '"^^ 
 dear old town again, but they loved it none the 
 less, and they were grateful to us — far beyond our 
 
78 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 slender claim — because they believed that we had 
 been in some measure benefactors and well-wishers 
 to their native place. 
 
 After the exchange of more formal speeches we 
 had a long and friendly chat with our welcome 
 visitors. We were glad to hear that all were doing 
 fairly well. Mr. Davis, who presented the address, 
 is a member of the House of Commons of New 
 South Wales. 
 Excursion Ju^U 9. — An excursiou to the Hawkesbury 
 
 buJy^Eiver I^iver Occupied the whole of a pleasant and inte- 
 resting day. Leaving Sydney at an early hour we 
 journej'ed two hours by railway to the banks of the 
 Hawkesbury. The scenery was delightful. Some- 
 times it had the character of an English park. 
 Sometimes we were journeying through a virgin 
 forest. Here and there, in clearings adjacent to 
 the railway, groves of oranges might be seen richly 
 laden with clusters of golden fruit. At the cross- 
 ing of the Parramatta we had a fine view of the 
 river, at this point a truly noble stream. In the 
 distance were the Blue Mountains, fully meriting 
 the name suggested to the early colonists by the 
 exquisite tones of colour along the whole line of 
 their far-extending ranges. 
 
 As we approached the Hawkesbury the river 
 could be seen flowing in the deep ravines below. 
 An excursion on the water occupied the middle 
 Scenery hours of the day. We passed through scenery 
 which may be compared to that of the Ehine, 
 without its castles. The Hawkesbury will shortly 
 
VIII. — MELBOUENE TO SYDNEY 79 
 
 be spanned by a bridge of splendid proportions, 
 erected at a cost of 350,000Z., which will connect 
 Sj'dney with the great coal-fields of Newcastle. 
 
 The following extracts are taken from a Sydney 
 paper : — 
 
 PICNIC TO LOED BRASSEY 
 
 A complimentary picnic was tendered to Lord a picnic 
 Brassey on Satm'day by the pubhc works contrac- J*,,^!^"'^'"^ 
 tors of New South Wales. The picnic took the fontTac- 
 form of a trip to the Hawkesbury Eiver, and about 
 150 gentlemen attended. Amongst those present 
 were the Eight Hon. W. B. Dalley, P.O., Sir John 
 Eobertson, Sir John Hay (President of the Legis- 
 lative Council), Sir William Ogg, Sir Edward 
 Strickland, Hon. Julian Salomons, Q.C., M.L.C. 
 (Vice-President of the Executive), Hon. James 
 Inglis (Minister of Public Instruction), Hon. F. 
 Abigail (Minister for Mines), Hon. W. Clarke 
 (Minister of Justice), Mr. Eiley, M.P. (Mayor of 
 Sydney), and others. 
 
 The party left Eedf ern in a special train shortly 
 after nine o'clock in the morning, and arrived at 
 Peat's Ferry about noon. At the ferry they viewed 
 the work proceeding there in connection with the 
 construction of the new bridge, and then went on 
 board Captain Murray's river-boat, the ' General o„ board 
 Gordon.' On the upper deck arrangements had ^General 
 been made for the serving of a cold collation, and (^"^^°^ ' 
 at about one o'clock the party sat down. Mr. 
 J. C. Carey presided. At the conclusion of the 
 
80 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 repast, and after the usual loyal toasts had been 
 duly honoured, 
 
 The Eight Hon. W. B. Dalley proposed the 
 
 health of ' Our distinguished guest, Lord Brassey.' 
 
 speech of In the course of an excellent speech he said : — ' Our 
 
 Mr. Dnlley , _ . i i • .1 
 
 hosts on this occasion are men who have in the 
 construction of the great public works of this 
 country expended about 14,000,000Z. of the pubhc 
 funds during the last ten years. Their guest is the 
 son of a man who had, by similar labours to those 
 of their hosts on a gigantic scale, by means of his 
 vast and unparalleled industrial enterprise, helped 
 largely to change the face of the world ; who had 
 constructed some of the greatest monuments of 
 our later civilisation in England and in India and 
 in the British Colonies, in France and in Germany, 
 in Belgium and in Italy, in Spain, Denmark, and 
 Russia. In welcoming Lord Brassey to this com- 
 pany of men of enterprise and of large under- 
 takings, and in asking him to meet men of repre- 
 sentative character and position in the community, 
 j'ou make your compliment dearer and more pre- 
 cious because you are influenced by profound 
 Tribute to respect for the memory of his parent. You have 
 Brassey been prompted to honour, not only his personal 
 merits and his individual labours, but the great 
 industrial name which he bears — a name ennobled 
 by the labour and enterprise of his father— because 
 you are proud to associate yourselves with the career 
 of one who had done, as you are in your smaller 
 way endeavouring to do, much for mankind. I 
 
Vlll.— :tfELBOL:RNE TO SYDNEY 81 
 
 give you— a company of public contractors — the 
 health of the son of the greatest of them all, the 
 son of " Thomas Brassey." ' 
 
 Lord Brassey, in reply, said there could not Speoeii of 
 have been devised a form of hospitality so grateful Brassey 
 to him as the one he was that day enjoying. He 
 could assure them that he did not forget his origin. 
 He was proud of it. If from circumstances which 
 had been all too fortunate for him, he had been 
 spared the personal anxieties which were experi- 
 enced so deeply by those employed in the execution 
 of public works, he had a fellow feeling for those 
 who were so engaged. The speech in which his 
 name had been introduced to them referred — and 
 he was glad that it did refer so largely — to the 
 career of his dear father. He was proud to know 
 that the opportunity was afforded to his father of 
 performing the useful office of a pioneer of civili- 
 sation throughout the length and breadth of the 
 world. His father entered timidly upon that career. Hisfather's 
 He (Lord Brassey) had often heard him describe career 
 the day which led him to the execution of public 
 works. He was visited, at the time when the 
 Liverpool and Manchester Eailway — our first rail- 
 way — was in contemplation, by old George Ste- 
 phenson. He came to see his father, then a young 
 man, brought up as a surveyor and carrying on his 
 business in Birkenhead, with reference to the pur- 
 chase of some stone. His father conducted Mr. 
 Stephenson to the quarry. The impression made 
 was favourable, and when Mr. Stephenson shook 
 VOL. II, 
 
his success 
 
 82 CRUI8E TO INDIA AM) ArSTRALtA IX 1886-87 
 
 Atiyice of liands in the evening he said, ' Well, young man, 
 
 phenson there is something promising about you. I see a 
 great field for railways. It would be well for you 
 to follow my banner and enter upon this new sphere 
 of enterprise.' The young man trembled at the 
 idea, but he took the older one's advice, and ten- 
 dered for a section of the Grand Junction Eaihvay, 
 and during the construction of the first ten miles 
 of that railway their guest was born. He would 
 not enter into the details of his father's career, but 
 he had often asked himself what was the secret of 
 
 Secret of liis succcss. He believed his success was mainly 
 due to his high and honest character, and if he 
 might make one more reference to his father he 
 \\ould say that the motive \\-hich prompted him to 
 extend his enterprise to the great limits which it 
 ultimately reached was not a love of money — it 
 was the spirit of enterprise, and the ambition to 
 be a constructor of great and noble works. The 
 results which had followed from his labours were 
 patent to all the world. They had done much to 
 promote the prosperity of mankind. He (Lord 
 Brassey) did not know that we could find greater 
 evidence of the benefits of the railway system than 
 here. 
 
 Benefit of He had often wished to visit these colonies. 
 
 c'oTouicV''' He believed that every traveller who came from 
 the old country and made friends with those 
 living here was the forger of another link between 
 the old country and the new. He had watched 
 such indications as opportunities had placed before 
 
VIII.— MELBOURNE TO SIDNEY 83 
 
 him of the state of feehng in these colonies, and it 
 rejoiced his heart to see so many evidences of the 
 warm feeling of affection which he was sure 
 animated every heart towards the old comitry. 
 He had for more than twenty years been a close 
 watcher of the feeling in the old country. Pride 
 in and attachment to the colonies was growing Attacii- 
 stronger every year. "We had seen great events colonies in 
 happen during his short political career. We ™°'^ti^'. 
 had seen Germany become a united nation, we 
 had seen Italy become a united nation, and if the 
 English-speaking and English-loving people in- 
 tended to maintain their influence in the world 
 they must keep together. We could maintain 
 this unity, while at the same time maintaining 
 the principle of local self-government. Beyond 
 and above that instinctive feeling of race which 
 bound us all, there was that greatest gift in the 
 science of politics — the gift of common sense, 
 which certainly was distinctive of the British 
 race. He thanked them for their great kindness 
 in receiving him on that occasion, and neither he 
 nor those who belonged to him would ever forget 
 that kindness. 
 
 July 11. — Sir Henry Parkes, the Premier of 
 New South Wales, his daughter, Mr. Collins, the 
 United States Consul, and others, lunched on 
 board. The Premier is a great admirer of Mr. 
 Gladstone. He approves in principle his plans for 
 the better government of Ireland. 
 
 July 12, — Under the guidance of Mr. Miller, 
 
!4 CR'J£S3; XJ IN'Dr.V AvfD- AU4JrHALIl IX 1886-87 
 
 Visit to 
 Messrs. 
 Mort's 
 eiigineer- 
 ing worltB 
 
 Tleforma ■ 
 tory sliip 
 ' Veruon ' 
 
 the acting under secretary in .the department of 
 Pubhc Instruction, ^ye left the Circular Quay, in a 
 launch provided by the Marine Board, at about ten 
 o'clock, and steamed round to Balmain, where we 
 made a call at Messrs. Mort & Co.'s engineer- 
 ing works. Mr. Francki, the manager, conducted 
 us over the whole of the establishment, and ex- 
 plained everything of interest. Messrs. Mort, in 
 busy times, give employment to 1,100 workmen. 
 The wages range from eight to fourteen shillings 
 for a day of eight hours. They have a dock capable 
 of taking in merchant steamers of the largest class, 
 and a patent slip capable of receiving ships of 
 1,000 tons. The German gun-vessel, ' Albatross,' 
 was under repair in this slip, having been brought 
 over from Samoa to prepare for a voyage home- 
 ward. This incident shows the strength of our 
 position in this part of the Pacific. We have an 
 incontestible supremacy. "We have a base of 
 naval action fully equipped by private enterprise. 
 No foreign Power has any establishment worthy 
 the name. 
 
 AVe next visited the reformatory ship ' Vernon ' 
 at her moorings near Cockatoo Island. The 
 antecedents of the boys, as entered on their admis- 
 sion to the ship, are of the worst description. 
 After a year of discipline on board they are mostly 
 sent to stations up country. No difficulty is 
 experienced in obtaining situations, and nine boys 
 out of ten do well. 
 
 The morning's work concluded with a visit to 
 
VIII.— MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 85 
 
 Cockatoo Island, -\vliere the colonial Government Cockatoo 
 have a small dockyard establishment and two ^'^'^"'^ 
 graving docks. The ' Fitzroy ' has been in use 
 for some years. Its dimensions were fully equal 
 to naval requirements at the date of construction. 
 A new dock, now approaching completion, is the 
 largest in the world, and capable of taking in the 
 ' Great Eastern.' The plans and works were 
 explained by Mr. Moriarty, the engineer-in-chief 
 of the Government, and by Mr. Samuel, the repre- 
 sentative of the contractors. 
 
 In the afternoon went to the Legislative 
 Assembly to hear Mr. Dalley, who organised the 
 expedition to the Soudan, speak on the interesting 
 question of the payment of members. 
 
 July 13. — Attended the prorogation of the 
 New South Wales Parliament. Lunched on 
 board the German ship ' Bismarck ' with Com- visit the 
 
 T rm I'll 1 PI 'Bismarck 
 
 modore Heusner. The admirable order of the 
 German ships, and the good discipline and high 
 physical standard of the crews, have greatly 
 impressed the officers of the British squadron in 
 this port. The officers are men of high education 
 and accomplishments. All speak English fluently. 
 In the afternoon attended a meeting of the 
 St. John Ambulance Association, which was held 
 in the drawing-room of Government House, with 
 a view of establishing a permanent centre of the 
 Ambulance Association in New South "Wales. His 
 Excellency the Governor, Lord Carrington, pre- 
 sided. Thepaper reported our speeches as follows;— 
 
Association 
 
 86 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Speech of Lord Brassey said : — I have much pleasure in 
 
 Brassey offering a few sentences in support of what has 
 fallen from Dr. Ellis. I am aware that the excel- 
 lent work contemplated by the St. John Ambu- 
 lance Association has already been commenced in 
 New South Wales. We appreciate very much 
 what has been done. Indeed, I may say for myself 
 that I am pleased to know that in connection with 
 the Naval Volunteer movement, in which I have 
 
 Workoftiie long taken a deep interest, the work of the St. 
 St. John ^ J^ . . . , , 
 
 AmbiJance John Ambulance Association is already going 
 
 forward in a most satisfactory manner. Last week 
 
 I was earnestly pressed by Commander Lee to 
 
 quit another engagement to go out in the Domain, 
 
 at a late hour of the night, with a view to see the 
 
 corps he has the honour to command engaged at 
 
 drill, in what is called the new attack formation. 
 
 I found another effort going forward, in which I 
 
 take an equally deep interest. A large detachment 
 
 of men were receiving practical instruction in the 
 
 useful and humane art of administering first aid 
 
 to the wounded. Five men, who were supposed 
 
 to have received severe injury, were being treated 
 
 with such expedients as would be found on a field 
 
 of battle. That was the work of the St. John 
 
 Association, illustrated in a practical manner. I 
 
 am glad to hear from the gentleman who preceded 
 
 me of the successful efforts which have already 
 
 been made. I am pleased to hear a similar account 
 
 with reference to the work at Newcastle. We do 
 
 not fail to recognise the value of what has been 
 
VIII. — :\[ELBOITRNE TO s^'DNEY 87 
 
 done already ; but my wife, who has for many years 
 given her heart so thoroughly to the work of the 
 St. John Ambulance Association, cannot visit 
 Sydney, or any other place where she is received 
 with so much kindness as has been extended to 
 her here, without wishing to mark her interest in 
 the community by giving a fresh impetus to this 
 good work. It is hoped and believed that by some 
 concentration of effort or administration we shall, 
 in a more effectual manner than heretofore, not 
 only carry forward what is already being done, but 
 extend it to other districts in which the public Extension 
 interest has not yet been sufficiently awakened to Association 
 the value of the St. John Ambulance Association. 
 It is self-evident that in places where men are 
 engaged in the recesses of the mines the necessitv "V'aiue of 
 
 „,„,.,.,. . such know- 
 
 for work of this kind is virgent. A necessity, ledge in 
 equally great, exists for the spread of this most IJgricul^"' 
 useful knowledge of first aid to the wounded Ji"cts'''^' 
 amongst the scattered population of the extensive 
 pastoral and agricultural districts of this colony. 
 In many of those districts it would be impossible 
 to secure the attendance of a medical man at the 
 moment when he was wanted. Let me glance at 
 another sphere in which it appears to me this 
 knowledge must be most valuable. I refer to those 
 who earn their bread upon the ocean — upon those 
 ships which call at this port and which go forth on 
 the long voyages which are undertaken from thence. 
 I earnestly hope that the importance of the work 
 may be impressed upon the seafaring population. 
 
'88 CRULSE TO INDIA AXIJ AUSTKATJA IN 188G-87 
 
 Speecli of 
 
 Lady 
 
 BrasRey 
 
 Interest in 
 the Asso- 
 ciation 
 
 A liea<l- 
 
 (outve 
 
 required 
 
 Lady Brassey, who was received with much 
 enthusiasm, said : — I camiot thank you sufficiently 
 for the kind way in which you have come to this 
 meeting, and also for the way in which this vote 
 of thanks has been carried by acclamation. It is 
 perfectly true, as my husband says, that from the 
 iirst day of its establishment I have taken the very 
 greatest interest in the St. John Ambulance 
 Association, because I have known what a really 
 good society it is, how much suffering it prevents 
 and how many valuable lives it saves. I really do 
 feel it to be my duty, wherever I go, to do what- 
 ever I can to help it forward ; sometimes by the 
 establishment of a centre, and sometimes l)y the 
 restoration of one that is somewhat languishing. 
 Here it is a pleasantcr task still, to which I was 
 stimulated by hearing that excellent classes had 
 been already formed, and that local centres had 
 been established. To me it seems a great pity 
 that, whilst ^^•e have such good material, which in 
 local centres has accomplished such excellent work, 
 thei'e should be no head-centre for the whole 
 colony, with funds at its disposal, and having a 
 central committee which Avould be able to extend 
 their arms far and wide. With such a head-centre 
 as I have in view there would be, instead of two 
 or three societies, tens, if not hundreds, of them, 
 established throughout the colony. I can hardly 
 think of any organisation which, so far as the 
 remote and sparsely populated parts of the colony 
 are concerned, would be more useful than this. 
 
VIII. — 51ELB0UEXE TO SYDNEY 89 
 
 The association is most useful in spreading know- Usefulness 
 ledge which must be of great value to all, and Associatinn 
 especially to us poor women. If you know what 
 to do and how to do it, and have the confidence 
 which knowledge and ability inspire, you will be 
 able to bear the sight of blood or wounds much 
 better than if you had not the knowledge I have 
 indicated. I know that at one time it was to me 
 a great trial to look at blood or wounds. Then I 
 could not have bound up an artery to save a man's 
 life. Now I can bear all this without shrinking, 
 for a time, at any rate, whatever my feelings may 
 be afterwards. It appears that the centres to 
 which reference has been made liave been admi- 
 rably organised, and the papers set for the ex ami- its excKi- 
 nations, so far as I have been able to form an nisntilT' 
 opinion with respect to them, seem to be particu- 
 larly good. The Volunteer corps to which my 
 husband has alluded I believe to be wonderfully 
 well organised, so that if its services were used in 
 time of war it would be quite self-contained. In 
 speaking of the formation of the principal centre, 
 I alluded to one requirement of that centre as that 
 of funds. The poor we have always with us. To 
 the poor, the knowledge which this society imparts 
 is quite as necessary as, perhaps even more so Value to 
 than, it is to the rich. The bread-winner of the 
 family ill — perhaps laid up for a long time — means 
 more to them than such a circumstance would to 
 us ; so I hope some of the people here will be found 
 starting the nucleus of a fund which will enable 
 
90 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IX 1886-87 
 
 the principal centre to be self-supporting. For 
 this purpose Lord Brassey and I propose to gi^'e 
 50/., proceeds of showing the ' Sunbeam ' to 
 visitors, and to become life members of the 
 society. Earnestly recommending to the Ministers 
 of the Crown, whom we are glad to see present, 
 the project as a measure of political economy, and 
 to the company as one of humanitarianism, I will 
 conclude by thanking you for the kind attention 
 you have been so good as to give me. 
 
 In the evening I presided at the annual 
 meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society of 
 Australia. 
 
 July 15. — Made a charming excursion to the 
 
 Excarsion Blue Mountaius, in a special train. "We were the 
 
 MountSnT guests for the day of Sir Henry Parkes. The 
 
 Chinese Commissioners were of the party. The 
 
 chief commissioner, who has the rank of a general, 
 
 speaks English perfectly. 
 
 The furthest point of our journey to-day was 
 73 miles from Sydney. Parramatta, the first town 
 of importance on the line of railway, is the oldest 
 in New South Wales. The surrounding district 
 is peculiarly favourable for the growth of orange 
 trees. After leaving Parramatta the railway crosses 
 the Emu plains, which are of extraordinary fer- 
 tility. The ascent of the Blue Mountains, by 
 means of zigzags, is an achievement of great 
 Engineer- engineering skill. In an incredibly short space of 
 time a height is reached far exceeding that of our 
 own Snowdon. From this elevation the view ex- 
 
YIII. — MELBOU-RNE TO SYDNEY 91 
 
 tends over the Emu plains, with their rich tracts 
 of arable land, refreshed here and there by the 
 dark green of the orange groves. The Parramatta 
 can be traced for many miles. Sydney is seen in 
 the distance. 
 
 Having reached the summit of the zigzags, the 
 railway runs along the elevated plateau of the The 
 Blue Mountains, winding in a series of sharp themonn- 
 curves and steep inclines through a rugged and *'^'°^ 
 difficult region, rocky and incapable of cultivation, 
 but thickly wooded with gum trees. Here and 
 there deep gorges penetrate into the heart of the 
 Blue Mountain range. The crags of bare rock, 
 presenting perpendicular bases of imposing eleva- 
 tion, form a striking feature. Returning towards 
 Sydney we spent a delightful afternoon at a 
 country house belonging to Sir Henry Parkes. A 
 pass leads down from the house to the wooded 
 glen below, where it follows a mountain stream, 
 whose waters are in many places concealed by a 
 rich growth of luxuriant ferns. 
 
 July 16. — ' At home ' on board the ' Sun- 
 beam.' 
 
 Later in the day inspected the Naval Brigade- The Naval 
 — a splendid body of men. Their numbers have "^'^'^ 
 unhappily been reduced from considerations of 
 economy. 
 
 Dined with the Chief Justice, Sir Frederick, 
 and Lady Darley. 
 
 July 17. — To church on board the flagship ship 
 'Nelson.' Walked round the ship after service, "^^''"^s 
 
02 CRUISE TO INDIA AXD AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 LeavG 
 Sydney 
 in the 
 ' Sunbeam ' 
 
 Clear the 
 Heads 
 
 and theh went on board the ' Opal,' Captain 
 Bosanquet. Both ships in admirable order and 
 ably commanded. In the afternoon to the cathe- 
 dral. A fine service. 
 
 July 19. — After a busy morning embarked on 
 the ' Sunbeam.' 
 
 The afternoon was beautifully bright and fine, 
 with a moderate breeze from the westward. On 
 H.M.S. ' Opal ' quite a number of ladies and gentle- 
 men were assembled, who waved their adieus to 
 the ' Sunbeam.' About 2.30 the order was given 
 to slip the moorings, and the steam launch in at- 
 tendance simultaneously began to tow the ' Sun- 
 beam's ' head up to windward. Then, taking ad- 
 vantage of the westerly wind blowing, ran down 
 the harbour under topsail, top-gallant-sail, jib stay- 
 foresail, and fore trysail and mainsail. The usual 
 farewell signals were hoisted as the yacht got 
 under way, and were duly answered by the British 
 warships in port, the band on board the ' Nelson ' 
 at the same time striking up ' Auld Lang Syne.' 
 Eear-Admiral Fairfax, C.B., accompanied the 
 ' Sunbeam ' as far as Clarke Island. The yacht 
 cleared the Heads at 4.45 P.M. 
 
 As we passed between the Heads the sun was 
 setting — his golden orb seemed to fill the narrow 
 entrance to the splendid harbour. We sailed close 
 along the sandstone cliff, from which the wind was 
 blowing to seaward, filling the '.Sunbeam's ' sails 
 with a propitious breeze, 
 
IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 93 
 
 IX. — SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE. 
 
 We made a smart run during the night from Anive at 
 
 • -1 • -If Newcastle 
 
 Sydney to Newcastle, domg the sixty miles from 
 port to port in seven hours. At 3 a.m. on July 19 
 we lighted fires, and at 5 steamed slowly in for the 
 breakwater light at the entrance to the port of 
 Newcastle. At 7 we made fast to a buoy off the 
 Custom House. 
 
 The Hunter Eiver, at the mouth of which The 
 Newcastle is situated, is the second in size of the River 
 rivers, of New South Wales. It is three hundred 
 miles long, and is navigable by large coasting 
 steamers to the town of Morpeth, twenty-three 
 miles from the sea. Maitland, a town of 10,000 
 inhabitants, situated a few miles below Morpeth, 
 is the centre of a flourishing agricultural district, 
 in which grapes are largely cultivated, and which 
 contains an almost inexhaustible coal-field. 
 
 Newcastle is the great port for the shipment The eoai- 
 of coals from the chief coal-fields in New South Newcastle 
 Wales. Considerably over two million tons are 
 now shipped annually, chiefly to the ports of 
 Australasia and New Zealand, and to San Fran- 
 cisco. Ships coining out from the British ports to 
 Australia frequently load with coals at Newcastle 
 for San Francisco, and return thence with wheat 
 to England. The existence of coal was first dis- 
 covered by Lieutenant Shortland in 1797. In 
 1845 one mine only was being worked. At the 
 
di CRUISE TO INDIA AKD AUSTRALIA IX 1880-87 
 
 Facilities 
 for loading 
 ships 
 
 Tlie city 
 
 Defence of 
 
 the 
 
 entrance 
 
 View from 
 Monnment 
 Hill 
 
 present time more than 5,000 men are employed 
 in the pits. They work eight hours a day. The 
 day wages of the underground men average ten to 
 twelve shillings. No less than thirty-five seams 
 of coal have been discovered, varying in thickness 
 from 5 to 21^ feet. The appliances for loading 
 coal are most complete. Three and a half miles 
 of quay have been built, with suf&cient water for 
 vessels of the heaviest tonnage. The quays are 
 fitted with numerous cranes, a considerable number 
 being worked by hydraulic power. The machinery 
 Avas supplied by Sir "William Armstrong's firm. A 
 cargo of one thousand tons can be shipped in a 
 single day. The present price of coal, free on 
 board, is eleven shillings a ton. 
 
 The city of Newcastle with its suburbs has a 
 population of 30,000. The streets are well laid 
 out, the public buildings substantial, and the shops 
 excellent. The entrance to the port is defended 
 by a fort on Flagstaff Hill, armed with three 
 9-inch guns and three rifled 80-pounders. The 
 channel, being narrow, tortuous, and of moderate 
 depth, can readily be denied to an enemy by 
 torpedoes. From Monument Hill — an isolated 
 elevation above Newcastle — the view embraces a 
 long sweep of the great coast range of New South 
 Wales, the noble harbour, in which as many as 
 two hundred sail of the finest merchant-ships may 
 often be seen, and the city of Newcastle and its 
 populous subm'bs. The existence of coal-fields, 
 the main source of the local prosperity, is indicated 
 
IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 95 
 
 by numerous shafts visible in all directions. We 
 had glorious weather, and the scene was not 
 obscured by the dense volumes of smoke which 
 fill the atmosphere on the banks of the Tyne. 
 
 The proceedings of the day included inspection 
 of the Council Chamber, the Fort, Messrs. Dalgety's 
 wool stores, and a public luncheon, at which the 
 Mayor of Newcastle presided. 
 
 On the termination of the luncheon we pro- 
 ceeded, at the invitation of the directors of the 
 Newcastle Coal Mining Company, to visit their vimI to 
 colliery at the Glebe. In one of the large bords coiiiuiy 
 (to be used in the future as stables) several tables 
 were laid out with refreshments, the whole scene 
 being brilliantly illuminated with magnificent 
 Chinese lanterns, and the walls of the mine being 
 tastefully decorated with splendid ferns. 
 
 Mr. S. Keightley, in the name of the directors, Speech of 
 returned thanks to Lord and Lady Brassey for Keightley 
 taking the trouble to inspect their mine. He 
 trusted that their visit would not be wholly un- 
 pleasant or unprofitable to them. He would 
 remind them that the coal trade was one in which 
 all connected with Newcastle were interested — it 
 was their staple industry. When he first arrived 
 here the total annual export of coal was 983,000 Progress of 
 tons. That was the time in which the Newcastle i„^dus°try 
 Coal Company commenced opening their pit^the 
 pit through which they had just passed — and in 
 which they had met on that auspicious occasion. 
 He was unable to say what the decennial returns 
 
 at New- 
 castle 
 
9(5 CRUISE to INDIA AND AUSTEAtiA IN 1886-87 
 
 from that year were, aw he regretted very much to 
 say that the Mining Department had not yet 
 pubhshed their returns for 1886, although we were 
 then in the seventh month of the year 1887. 
 However, he would give the result of the year 
 ^''??'"Mr 1885, viz. 2,113,000 tons, whilst the export for the 
 
 coal in 1885 > ; > ^ j. ^ 
 
 last year would beat that quantity proportionately, 
 and the increase of the present would be j)ropor- 
 tionately greater than that of the past. Lord 
 Brassey would therefore see that the coal trade of 
 Australia, as represented by the Northern districts, 
 was in a very satisfactory condition. He found 
 that the total value of the export of coal in 1876 
 was 618,500Z. ; in 1885 it had reached 1,033,000/. 
 Beferring to the relative difference between selling 
 Price per the coal at 14s. per ton and at lis., he said that 
 coal proprietors had found it to their interest to 
 sell at the latter price, and thus command the 
 markets, and that the large additional advantages 
 for shipping and producing the coal compensated 
 for the difference in the price. In the old days 
 the collieries only worked two or three days per 
 week, whereas at the present time they worked 
 Number of every day. In 1876 there were 3,180 men 
 iJoyed employed in the collieries ; there were now 5,380. 
 There were then eight collieries ; there were now 
 thirteen. The above large number of men em- 
 ployed also represented a great number of the 
 population supported by the coal trade. Australians 
 here, therefore, looked upon the coal trade as one 
 of the greatest importance. Although the export 
 
IX.— SVBNEV TO NEWCASTLE AXD BEISBANE 9? 
 
 of 2,000,000 tons of coal might appear insignificant 
 wlien compared with British exports, yet when 
 the two populations were compared he thought 
 the comparison would be favourable to Australia. 
 
 We- came to. the end of a long day at Newcastle 
 with the most favourable impressions of the city 
 and its district, and full of gratitude to its kind 
 and enterprising inhabitants. 
 
 Jxdy 20. — At an early hour Lady Brassey 
 and her party of travellers landed at Tenterfield, 
 and- took the train ior Brisbane. Eeturning on 
 board the ' Sunbeam,' we cast off from the buoy, Leave 
 and made- sail for Brisbane with a fresh breeze for 
 from the north-west. ^''''''"'"' 
 
 JwZi/ 21-22. ^We continued under sail with 
 variable winds and generally fine weather. The 
 chief features of the fine stretch of coast be- Features 
 
 of tlie 
 
 tween Nev^^castle and Brisbane are the Boughton coast 
 Islands, Cape Hawke, a densely wooded promontory 
 rising to a height of 800 feet, and the- Solitary 
 Islands, a detached group scattered over- a space 
 of 22 miles in a north and south direction, at a 
 distance of four to six miles from the shore. A 
 light is exhibited from the south Solitary, and a 
 signal establishment iskept up. We communicated 
 with- this isolated port. An islet adjacent to the 
 south Solitary Island is remarkable for a large 
 natural arch, which- the ceaseless breaking of the 
 sea has opened through the rock. 
 
 Passing north from the Solitaries we again 
 closed with the poast at Cape Byron. The scenery 
 VOL. II. H 
 
98 CRUISfi TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Coast 
 scenery. 
 Mount 
 Warning 
 
 Moreton 
 Island. 
 Eapld pro- 
 
 Arrive at 
 Brisbane. 
 Intricate 
 navigation 
 
 is magnificent. The coast range attains to a great 
 elevation. Mount Warning, the loftiest peak, rises 
 to a height of 3,840 feet, and is visible fully sixty 
 miles. It was our guiding mark in the navigation 
 of the coast for a space of fully tw^enty-four hours. 
 At Danger Point the boundary line betv^een 
 Queensland and New South Wales descends to 
 the coast from the high summits of the Macpherson 
 Eange. 
 
 July 23.— At noon we were off the entrance 
 to the narrow channel which divides Stradbroke 
 Island from Moreton Island, tearing along at twelve 
 knots an hour, under lower canvas only, with a 
 strong wind off the land and smooth water. It 
 was a splendid bit of yachting. We passed a 
 steamer which had come out with the Mayor and 
 a large party from Brisbane to meet us. They 
 welcomed us to Queensland with hearty cheers, to 
 which we cordially responded. We stood in close 
 under the land and followed the high coast of 
 Moreton Island. Its northern extremity, a fresh, 
 verdure-clad, and well-wooded point of land, on 
 which stands a lighthouse, was, on this sunny and 
 breezy day, perfectly beautiful. 
 
 Off the north end of Moreton Island we took a 
 pilot, and proceeding mider steam arrived at 10 p.m. 
 off Government House, Brisbane, a distance of 50 
 miles from Cape Moreton. The navigation from 
 the bar of the river to Brisbane, a distance of 25 
 miles, is extremely intricate. Everything has been 
 done which it is possible to do, by leading lights 
 
IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 99 
 
 at frequent intervals, to assist the pilots ; but we 
 passed a steamer of the British India Company — 
 which had entered the river an hour ahead of the 
 ' Sunbeam ' — aground on a bank, from which 
 she was not floated until after a delay of two 
 days. 
 
 July 24-26 were spent at Brisbane, under At Govern, 
 the hospitable roof of Government House. Sir House 
 Anthony Musgrave, the present Governor of sir 
 Queensland, has had a long experience in many Mu'sgi-ave 
 colonies. It was gratifying to hear that the 
 prospects of Australia are full of promise ; but the 
 fifth continent can never become another United 
 States. It wants the noble rivers of North 
 America, and its wide tracts of fertile soil. 
 
 We discussed federation. The value of the Federation 
 united empire to the mother country and the 
 colonies was a frequent topic. On the question 
 of federation the tone of the Brisbane press was View of 
 more divided than in the larger colonies. The press'""' 
 probability of an ultimate separation from the 
 mother country was discussed freely in the local 
 journals, and a slender appreciation was shown of 
 the helplessness of the colonies, when separated 
 from the empire, in their dealings with great 
 Powers such as Germany or France. 
 
 The city of Brisbane is situated on both banks The city of 
 of a noble river. By persevering labour it has ^"^^"'"'^ 
 been deepened, more especially at the bar, suffi- 
 ciently to give passage to ships of the largest size. 
 The wharves and the shipping, with their bare 
 
 H 2 
 
100 C'EUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 spars towering high ahove the houses, are a fine 
 feature in the general aspect of the city. 
 Population, Brisbane and its district has over 70,000 inhabi- 
 subuiba tants. In its public buildings, gardens, and well- 
 planned streets it far surpasses an ordinary 
 l^rovincial town in England of corresponding 
 population. From One Tree Hill, a thickly 
 wooded range, four miles outside Brisbane,, a 
 glorious view is obtained of the city and its suburbs. 
 Here, as I have remarked in describing other 
 Australian towns, the suburbs are the most satis- 
 factory parts of the city. Their straggling 
 character, the houses well spaced out by gardens 
 and broad roads, give proof of the good conditions 
 under which the masses live. The picturesque 
 windings of the river Brisbane can be followed for 
 many miles. The smiling scene is closed in on 
 the landward side by the coast range of Queens- 
 land. On its seaward side are the land-locked 
 waters of the spacious bay, Moreton and Strad- 
 broke Islands forming a grand natural breakwater. 
 Beyond are the boundless waters of the Pacific. 
 
 On the sights of Brisbane I will be brief. 
 Government House, with the domain or park, and 
 Botanic the Botaiiic Gardens adjacent, occupies a tongue 
 of land, round which on three sides the river takes 
 a majestic sweep. This space has been wisely 
 reserved as one of the lungs of the crowded city of 
 the future. The Botanical Gardens are admir- 
 ably laid out. Palms of every species grow luxu- 
 riantly in this balmy climate. The clumps of 
 
IX.— SYDNEY TO NKAYCASTLE AND BRISBANE 101 
 
 bamboos round a basin of water in the centre of 
 the grounds are not surpassed for beauty and 
 strength of growth by the splendid specimens in 
 tlie gardens at Kandy. 
 
 Separated only by a narrow belt of sward from 
 Government House stand the Houses of Legisla- Houses of 
 ture, substantial buildings in the Italian style. 
 The chambers provided for the legislative bodies 
 are excellent. To facilitate the use of the excellent 
 library, a catalogue 7-aisonne has been prepared by 
 the able librarian, Mr. Donovan, in which the best 
 authorities on every topic of importance are enu- 
 merated and grouped together. Such a catalogue 
 would infinitely aid research. It should be pub- 
 lished for the general benefit of the literary world. 
 
 I cannot omit from this enumeration the great The great 
 bridge, manufactured at my father's works at Bir- 
 kenhead, which connects together North and South 
 Brisbane. It has a length of 1,080 feet. The 
 widest span is 132 feet. This bridge was com- 
 menced in 1863, and opened in 1874. 
 
 Brisbane, as the capital, shares in the varied 
 
 sources of prosperity offered in Queensland. The 
 
 Darling Downs, in the southern part of the colony, 
 
 are favourable for sheep. Further north are vast Agncui- 
 
 tracts suitable for horned cattle. The products of mh^eraf 
 
 the tropics can be successfully cultivated in the p^ductsof 
 
 . . . . . ■ Queens- 
 
 northern districts. The climate is more suitable land 
 
 for maize than wheat, and it is in this article, and 
 in sugar, that the most important increase of pro- 
 duction hastaken place. The minerals ar« a most 
 
102 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 important element in the prosperity of Queensland. 
 The total produce of gold already amounts to 
 16,000,000?., and other workings are being pro- 
 secuted with undiminished , activity. In Queens- 
 land gold is obtained chiefly from the quartz 
 reefs. 
 
 Short as our stay was in Brisbane, I had the 
 privilege of meeting the Prime Minister, Sir Samuel 
 Griffith, the librarian of the Houses of Legislature, 
 Mr. Donovan, Captain Heath, and the officials 
 connected with the marine departments, and 
 Bishop Thornhill, appointed to Queensland from 
 active work in a London parish. In such hands 
 the resources of the colony will not be neglected. 
 Excursion During our visit we made an excursion to the 
 
 settieliJ^nt first agricultural show at Marburg, an interesting 
 at Marburg Qgn-nan Settlement, formed in the last twenty 
 years. The settlers have, by the most laborious 
 efforts, cut down the dense scrub vnth which this 
 part of the country was covered. Their frugality, 
 their patience under many privations, and their 
 industry, have been rewarded. They grow maize, 
 sugar, tobacco, and vegetables, but their cattle seem 
 to be the most thriving and successful part of their 
 business. In some seasons want of water, and in 
 every season the heavy rainfall at the period when 
 the grain is coming to maturity, are serious draw- 
 backs to agriculture in this district. On the 
 land'^a'' wholc, it may be said that Queensland is far more 
 pastoral adapted to be a pastoral than an agricultural 
 
 country '- , .,. . 
 
 country. The capabilities of the country may be 
 
IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 103 
 
 measured by a comparison of statistics — OOO's 
 omitted. 
 
 Bushels raised in 
 1885-80 
 
 Xumber in 1880 
 
 ^ylleftb ' I^[aize Cattle Sheep 
 
 New South Waleis . .i 2,733 4,336 1,317 37,820 
 
 Victoria . . . 9,170 181 1,290 10,681 
 
 South Australia . 14,621 — 390 6,696 
 
 Queensland ... 51 1,574 4,162 8,994 
 
 The drive from the station at which we ahghted 
 to Marburg was through a dense forest of scrub, 
 and over an undulating country. Here and there 
 large patches have been cleared and brought under 
 cultivation . The dwellings of the laborious German 
 colonists, true pioneers of civilisation, by whom 
 this country has been opened up, are distributed 
 along the line of road at short distances apart. 
 No holding exceeds 160 acres. 
 
 Marburg is a small village. The houses are of village o£ 
 wood. The principal building is the school of art. 
 There is also a theatre, a music hall, and a place 
 of meeting for the villagers. It was used on the 
 occasion of our visit for the exhibition of all the 
 products of the district, including sugar and rum, 
 fruits and vegetables, leather and saddlery. The 
 following list of the produce for which prizes were 
 offered will give a fair indication of the climate and 
 soil of the district. 
 
 Marburg 
 
10-1 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AVSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Produce of Lettuces, peas, French beans, cucumbers, 
 
 the country . . t , • i j. i. 
 
 carrots, white turnips, swede turnips, beetroot, 
 onions, BngHsh potatoes, sweet potatoes, rhubarb, 
 table pumpkins, mangel-wurzels, horse-radish, 
 turnip radish, herbs, leeks, garlic, eschalots, 
 cabbage (drumhead), cauliflowers, pumpkins. 
 
 FAEM PRODUCE. 
 
 Maize, wheat, barley, rye, sugar-cane, tobacco, 
 sorghum, panicum, white peas, blue peas, grey 
 peas, French beans, broad beans, lucerne hay, 
 oaten hay. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 Pineapples, bananas, oranges, mandarin 
 oranges, lemons, apples, loquats. Cape goose- 
 berries, pomegranates, quinces, tomatoes. 
 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 Fuchsias, camellias, begonias, pelargoniums, 
 geraniums, ferns, lycopods, pansies, chrysanthe- 
 mums, lilies of the valley, roses, verbenas, wild 
 flowers. 
 
 DAIRY PRODUCE. 
 
 Salt butter, fresh butter, ham, bacon, lard, 
 eggs. 
 
 The ceremony of declaring the exhibition open 
 was performed by the Governor in a sentence. 
 We then proceeded to view the outdoor portion of 
 the show, the poultry, pigs, cattle, horses, sheep, 
 
IX. — SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BRISBANE 105 
 
 and implements. It was interesting to walk 
 through a crowd of many hundreds of strongly 
 marked German faces. All the young people speak 
 English, all the older people retain their mother 
 tongue. English is taught in the schools, German 
 is used in the churches. The Germans make Germana 
 
 11 , 1 ■ . as colonists 
 
 excellent colonists. 
 
 The drive from Marburg to the Eosewood Rosewood 
 station led us back to the railway through a 
 country differing altogether in aspect from that 
 traversed in the morning. We crossed the sharp 
 ridges of the coast range by a succession of abrupt 
 ascents and descents. In the valleys and depres- 
 sions between the ridges, the patient German 
 colonists have established themselves in farms 
 divided pretty evenly between arable and pasture 
 land. The homesteads, consisting of little clusters German 
 of huts, are dotted over the whole face of the steads 
 coiintry. The plain wooden sheds used as churches 
 are generally erected at the highest points to which 
 the roads are carried, in positions from which 
 glorious views are obtained of the far extending 
 ridges and high peaks of the coast range, and of 
 the rich vale of Eosewood, into which we presently 
 descended. 
 
 Bythe invitation of Captain Wright, I inspected 
 the steel twin screw gun-vessel 'Gayundah.' This, The'Gay- 
 and the sister vessel 'Paluma,' were built by Sir and*^ 
 William Armstrong. Their armament consists of ' ^a^"'"'^ ' 
 one 8-inch and one 6-inch gun, and four machine 
 guns. They steam. -ten knots, and have a good 
 
106 CKUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Queens- 
 land Naval 
 Brigade 
 
 coal endurance. The ' Gayundah ' was in excellent 
 order, and manned by a good crew, including 
 several men-of-war's men. 
 
 In the course of the year the Queensland gun- 
 vessels visit ports at which naval brigade men 
 have been enrolled. The actual strength of the 
 brigade is — 
 
 Brisbane . . . 100 
 
 Townsville . . . .50 
 
 Bockhampton . . 50 and 50 Naval Artil- 
 
 lery Volunteers 
 Maryborough , . 50 
 
 Fixed and 
 floating 
 defence of 
 Brisbane 
 
 Leave 
 Brisbane 
 
 The flotilla of Queensland includes, in addition 
 to their two Armstrong gun-boats, a twin screw 
 armed tender, five armed barges, a torpedo-boat, 
 and a Government yacht. The land defences of 
 Brisbane consist of an enclosed work with defen- 
 sible stockade armed with two 6-inch breech- 
 loading guns and two 64-pounders. The fort and 
 the torpedo defences effectually bar the passage 
 up the river to Brisbane, 
 
 Jiihj 28. — Sir Anthony and Lady Musgrave, 
 Captain Heath, Captain and Mrs. Wright, the 
 Bishop of Brisbane, and quite a number of friends 
 had assembled on board to say ' good-bye.' 
 Throughout our stay we had had perfect weather, 
 bracing and crisp at night, cloudless and sunny 
 during the day. The heat from noon until sunset 
 was quite equal to what we experience on a fine 
 summer's day in England, We descended the 
 river from Brisbane to the sea under these favour- 
 
IX.— SYDNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND BEISBANE 107 
 
 able conditions. Commencing the voyage in the Down the 
 heart of the city, the crowded streets gradually '''^'"' 
 open out into suburbs, where every house is sur- 
 rounded by garden and plantation. Vegetation 
 gradually becomes more dense as the mouth of 
 the river is approached. 
 
 After crossing the bar we made sail. At 8 p.m. 
 we were off Cape Moreton. At dawn on the 
 following morning we v^^ere off Sunday Cape ; at 
 noon we had rounded the dangerous shoals off" 
 Breaksea Spit. In the evening we were off Cape 
 Capricorn. In the night we passed through the 
 narrow channel inside Hummocky Island, and at 
 daybreak we took a pilot on board, who conducted 
 us to the anchorage under Little-sea Hill at the Arrive and 
 mouth of the Fitzroy Eiver. The great inner 
 route to the Torres Straits commences off Breaks 
 sea Spit. 
 
 Analysis op Locj 
 Brisbane to BocJclmmpton 
 
 Analysis of 
 log 
 
 anchor in 
 the Fitzroy 
 Eiver 
 
 
 Sail 
 
 Steam 
 
 Lat. 
 
 Long. 
 
 Hemai-ks 
 
 Jnly 29 
 „ 30 
 
 „ n 
 
 18i 
 l.SS 
 
 20 
 12 
 
 -III 
 
 72 
 
 21-2:! S. 
 23-29 S. 
 
 153-2-4 E. 
 151-CO E. 
 
 "Weighea 1.40 r.Nr. Fresh 
 
 breezes S.E. 
 Same weather. At anchor 7 
 
 A.M. to 3 P.M. 
 Arrived .at llockhampton at 
 
 9 r.M. 
 
 322 
 
 Total distance from Portsmouth : 
 Sail .... 
 Steam .... 
 
 11,868 
 
 8,529 
 
 20,397 
 
108 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Proceed 
 and arrive 
 at Rock- 
 hampton 
 
 We were favoured with a brisk breeze for the 
 run up from Brisbane, and accomplished the 
 distance from Cape Moreton to the Fitzroy river, 
 330 miles, in thirt5'-four hours. 
 
 We started for Eockhampton at 3.30 p.m., and 
 arrived off the town in 5^ hours. Distance, 40 
 miles. Glorious sunset and afterglow. Pine ranges 
 of mountains. Eichly wooded banks of the river 
 in the foreground. 
 
 Bock- 
 liamptoii 
 
 Excursion 
 to Mount 
 Morgan 
 
 X. — EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 
 
 Jiilij 31. — An acceptable day of rest. Attended 
 an excellent service in the Episcopal church, one 
 of the most substantial and well designed in the 
 colony. Eeceived a visit from the Mayor of 
 Eockhampton. Learnt that the town had not 
 been prospering of late. The prolonged drought 
 had caused a great loss of cattle in the stations. 
 The want of prosperity in pastoral pursuits has 
 been barely compensated by the extraordinary 
 success of the Mount Morgan Gold -mining 
 Company's operations. 
 
 August 1 and 2. — Excursion to Mount Morgan 
 mine. Distance by road twenty-five miles. On 
 leaving Eockhampton the first ten miles pass 
 over level country by an excellent road. The 
 district is but little cultivated, and has the 
 universal character of the great Australian bush. 
 It is a .tast- forest of gum-trees. Many have been 
 
X.— RO.CKHAMPTON TO COOKTDWN 109 
 
 killed by removing the bark to improve tlie 
 pasture. As the distance from Bockhampton 
 increases the road becomes a mere track. At 
 every gully which is crossed the declivities are of 
 almost impassable steepness. The traffic to the 
 Mount Morgan mine is conducted by the sheer 
 brute force of innumerable horses. A two-wheel 
 cart is drawn by four horses, a four-wheel waggon 
 by twelve horses. A boiler was hauled up only 
 two days ago by upwards of sixty horses. The 
 Mount Morgan Gold-mining Company possess a rich gold 
 probably the most productive gold mine in the """** 
 world. The discovery of the gold-bearing rock, 
 of which the whole mass of Mount Morgan is 
 composed, was made while searching for copper 
 ore. The gold at Mount Morgan is obtained from 
 a lode of decomposed iron pyrites, partly under- 
 lying a bed of quartz, and at various points 
 cropping up to the surface. The original dis- 
 coverers of the ore, and the individuals who 
 supplied the slender amount of capital with which 
 the company commenced operations, have realised 
 great fortunes. The capital of the company as at 
 present constituted is 1,000,000Z., divided into 1^. The Com- 
 shares, 17s. 6a. paid. The present price of the Us shares 
 shares is 61. At this high premium the dividends 
 at the present rate yield under 4^. per cent. 
 Machinery is in course of erection, which will 
 double the output. 
 
 To the unskilled eye there is nothing in the 
 appearance of the rock which indicates the presence 
 
110 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 of the precious metal. We ascended to the 
 summit of the range, and there saw some fifty 
 men quarrying a substance bearing a close resem- 
 blance to the rocks of any volcanic region. The 
 amount of material of a similar character is esti- 
 Percentage mated by millions of tons, the percentage of gold 
 
 ^° varying from five omices upwards per ton. 
 
 Thupro- -A-t Mount Morgan the process known as 
 
 cUoriL- chlorination has been developed on a larger scale 
 tion at than has elsewhere been attempted. The process 
 Morgan is described as follows ; — 
 
 The process of chlorination at Mount Morgan is 
 a very interesting one, and would well repay a 
 visit of inspection by any who are interested in the 
 profitable and economic treatment of auriferous 
 ores. The tailings, as they come from the 
 battery or from the dry crusher, as the case may 
 be, are first of all roasted in eight large furnaces, 
 each \\itli a capacity of putting through 8 tons in 
 twenty-four hours. The roasting of the ore in the 
 first place is to free it from the waters of crystalli- 
 sation and to burn all organic matter out of it. 
 When it leaves the furnaces it is turned out to 
 cool in a large space, which lies under the principal 
 sheds, between the furnaces and the chlorinising 
 barrels. When it has sufficiently cooled, it is taken 
 on an inclined tramway to the hoppers connected 
 with the chlorination barrels, in which the gas is 
 generated by mingling chloride of lime with 
 sulphuricacid. Water only is added, and the 
 barrels, which are, of course, - perfectly- air-tight, 
 
X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 111 
 
 are kept revolving until the gold is thoroughly 
 chlorinated, or, to speak plainly, put into a fluid 
 state. Each barrel contains a charge of about a 
 ton of ore, and it is possible to get through twelve 
 charges in the twenty-four hours. The period for 
 ^^■hich the barrels are made to revolve averages 
 one and a half hours. When this operation is 
 over .the contents of the barrels are discharged 
 into what are known as the draining-vats, from 
 whence the water and the gold, put into a state of 
 solution, are drained into the charcoal filters 
 below. The charcoal possesses such an affinity 
 for the chlorine that the gold is rapidly deposited, 
 and the charcoal is so laid in these V-shaped 
 filters that the golden fluid passes through layers 
 gradually becoming finer towards the bottom, and 
 thus practically all the gold that is dissolved by 
 the chlorine gas in the barrels is caught in the char- 
 coal ; and so effectual is the process that the refuse 
 from the draining tubs will not assay more than a 
 pennyweight or a pennyweight and a half to the 
 ton, while, in order that nothing may be lost that is 
 possible to save, the water which drains off from 
 the charcoal filters is pumped back and goes through 
 the process a second time. The contents of the 
 charcoal filters are conveyed, straight to the 
 smelting works, which are. of a very complete kind, 
 and are under the immediate superintendence of 
 Mr. Trenear. There the charcoal on which the gold 
 has been precipitated is first roasted in furnaces 
 specially constructed, and the residuum smelted 
 
112 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALLi IX 1886-87 
 
 Perfection 
 of the 
 j)rocess 
 
 Report 
 of Mr. 
 Cameron, 
 M.P. 
 
 in the usual smelting-pots, After this it is run, 
 as occasion requires, into ingots of the purest gold 
 that is ever turned out in Queensland. 
 
 Chlorination was originally attempted in the 
 United States. It has been perfected at Mount 
 Morgan, By the ordinary crushing and washing 
 l^rocess one ounce to the ton would be extracted 
 from the rock quarried at Mount Morgan. By 
 chlorination every particle of gold is extracted. 
 The product sometimes reaches 17 oz. per ton. 
 The average may be taken at 5 oz, Half an ounce 
 would cover expenses. 
 
 An interesting report on the Mount Morgan 
 mines has recently been made by Mr. Cameron, 
 M.P. He describes the physical character of. the 
 country as consisting of abrupt cliffs and pictu- 
 resque and beautifully sheltered valleys, clothed 
 with tich and succulent grasses, sparse under- 
 growth, and the many and ever-present varieties 
 of the gum-trees of Australia. The Jocks in the 
 vicinity, consist of quartzites, sandstones, and 
 shales. The gold-bearing rocks were deposited, 
 according to the opinion of Mr. Jack, the Govern- 
 ment geologist, by a thermal spring in. the open 
 air. Mr. Cameron quotes the opinion of Dr. 
 Liebnis, the Director of the Sydney Mint, as to 
 the quality of the Mount Morgan gold. It assayed 
 as high as 998 per cent., and readily sells for 4^. 4s. 
 per oz. As to the quantity of gold bearing ore, 
 he considers it beyoud even approximate computa- 
 tion. 
 
X. — ROCKIIAMPrON TO COOKTOWN 113 
 
 Most of the men employed in quarrying at workand 
 Mount Morgan are new arrivals in the colony. Xe^^^;°erg 
 Their wages may be taken at 7s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. a 
 day. They work only eight hours, but they work 
 hard, and the climate is hot for a large part of the 
 year. The cost of living is 15s. a week. Many 
 of the men save from their earnings. They 
 generally invest their money by taking a share in 
 a gold-mining enterprise, worked on the co-opera- 
 tive plan. The Croydon goldfield, in Northern 
 Queensland, is at present attracting much atten- 
 tion. The quarrymen working on the co-operative 
 . plan take their rocks to crushing mills, paying so 
 much a ton for the use of the machinery. Some 
 men make a little fortune in this way. 
 
 Taking a general view of the conditions of life Recreation 
 at Mount Morgan, it is obvious that the full bene- minera 
 fit of the high wages is by no means realised. The 
 dwellings are of the rudest kind. The blessings • 
 of the higher civilisation are but scantily enjoyed. 
 The men do not enjoy in a rational way their hours 
 of leisure. The company are about to erect a 
 school of art, out of which will probably grow a 
 mechanics' institute, a library, and a reading-room. 
 The Roman Catholics and Wesleyans have chapels 
 at Mount Morgan. 
 
 On our return from Mount Morgan I inspected The local 
 the men of the local naval brigade and naval brigade and 
 
 volunteers. volunteers 
 
 The inspection of the naval brigade and naval 
 volunteers was interesting, as an illustration of the 
 VOL. II. *i 
 
114 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 policy adopted by the Australian colonies, and 
 commended in the able paper on the present posi- 
 tion of European politics in the 'Fortnightly 
 ofTofuT^' Review ' of June 1887. They have two classes of 
 teers volunteers — a volunteer militia, which is paid, and 
 
 a force in the nature of a purely volunteer force, 
 which is armed and instructed, but not paid. The 
 adoption of a similar plan at home is worthy of 
 consideration. We might enrol a body of volun- 
 teer militia, similar to the colonial force, who 
 should be instructed at home and at hours which 
 would not interfere with other employments. Some 
 expense would be saved, and a class of men would 
 enlist decidedly superior to that generally repre- 
 sented in the existing militia. As to the efficiency 
 obtained in Australia, I can only give the opinion 
 of a civilian. So far as I was able to judge, it was 
 highly satisfactory. 
 
 August 3. — The following is a report of a con- 
 versation which took place in reference to an article 
 in ' The Daily Northern Argus ' of August 3, 1877 : — 
 Inter- A representative of the ' Argus ' waited upon 
 
 viswGcl bv 
 
 arepreaen- his lordship yesterday afternoon, to obtain from 
 
 the^lrgus' 1^™ ^^ expression of opinion upon matters which 
 
 are at present engaging the attention of the 
 
 English-speaking community throughout the 
 
 world. 
 
 Alluding to the Federation of the Empire, his 
 
 Views on lordship said it was simply an adoption by England 
 
 of the policy which was marking the history of 
 
 other nations. Germany had adopted it, Italy had 
 
X. — KOCKIIAMPTOX TO COOKTOW.N 115 
 
 done the same, and the recent movements of 
 1-iussia tended in the same direction. ' Speaking 
 for myself,' he said, ' I would rather be a citizen 
 of a big State than of a small.' The difficulties 
 which stood in the way of the accomplishment of 
 Imperial Federation were rapidly diminishing. 
 The extension of railways and telegraphs, the 
 improved conveniences for travelling, the construc- 
 tion of steamers of an increased speed (his lord- 
 ship does not think that we have as yet reached 
 the maximum speed which will be attained) were 
 all doing their work. It was argued, he knew, 
 that there was a danger that some day, by rash 
 action on some question in which the colonies 
 were not interested, Australia might be made the 
 subject of attack from a foreign Power. He does 
 not think that such a contingency is likely to arise, 
 and is convinced that it is growing more remote 
 every day. The policy of any British Govern- PoHcy of 
 ment will always be adjusted to the condition of Govem- 
 the Empire and its requirements as a whole, and ™'^"' 
 no Ministry would be so foolish as to involve these 
 great colonies in a needless war. A consideration of 
 his responsibilities in connection with the colonies 
 would exercise a restraining influence upon a 
 Minister. Australia was interested in England's 
 retention of her hold upon India and the mainte- 
 nance of her supremacy on the seas. These Mutual 
 
 . , , T J 1 ' 1 , 1 , interests of 
 
 interests were as dear to colonials as they were to EngUmd 
 the citizens of the mother land. The expansion Aultraiiu 
 of Australia's trade was forcing this conviction 
 
 I 2 
 
116 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 upon men's minds. ' Why, it was only the other 
 day,' said Lord Brassey, ' that a gentleman (Mr. 
 Thompson) told me, on board the " Smibeam," 
 that he had shipped a cargo of horses from his 
 station to go to Calcutta by a barque which was 
 loading in the Fitzroy river.' The community of 
 interests was growing between the old and new 
 lands, and it was a matter of deep concern to both 
 that no other Power should obtain dominant influ- 
 ence in India, and be able to impose tariffs which 
 would be absolutely prohibitive. The feeling which 
 was gradually binding each of the British depen- 
 dencies together was uniting the whole English- 
 speaking race, and he emphasised particularly the 
 increasingly close relations between the United 
 States and Great Britain. There was a strong 
 affinity in national hopes and aspirations between 
 German the English and Germans, who made the best 
 possible colonists, and who adopted, unconsciously 
 perhaps, but readily, the British character. It 
 was a noteworthy fact that the German colonist 
 of a generation old was really an English-speaking, 
 English-thinking man. His lordship sees nothing 
 in the immediate future which is likely to check 
 the growth of this mutual sympathy. The politi- 
 cal relations he regards as a matter of small con- 
 cern so long as the sentiment is strengthened — 
 the sentiment which he is sure would prevent the 
 English-speaking citizens of America from stand- 
 ing by and seeing the motherland insulted or 
 wronged. Federation is likely to come as a 
 
X. — EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 117 
 
 natural sequence of events without any elaborate 
 plans. He believes that the present system of 
 government is admirably suited to the colonies, 
 and works well both in regard to local affairs and 
 the relations of Australia to England. 
 
 This brought Lord Brassey to the recent Theim- 
 Imperial and Colonial Conference, which he regards coVo^niai ' 
 as an eminently successful practical step towards Conference 
 Federation. It was tentative, it is true, and it 
 was a somewhat hazardous experiment. Possibly, 
 if we could have divined Lord Salisbury's thoughts, 
 we should have found that he was half afraid of it. 
 If the delegates had met in London only to dis- 
 cover that they represented divided interests, then 
 disintegration might possibly have followed. 
 Happily results had been very different. A great 
 council, which was unprecedented in English 
 history, had assembled. English statesmen knew 
 more of colonial politicians, and colonial politicians 
 knew more of each other, than they had known 
 before ; and this had brought the Parliaments and 
 the people closer together. The Australian repre- 
 sentatives were made welcome at home, and were 
 accorded a deference which was as flattering to 
 them as it was. deserved. 
 
 Lord Brassey hopes that the scheme of defence Scheme of 
 which was adopted at the conference will be colonial 
 carried into effect. It will, he thinks, be generally t°on "o" 
 accepted . that the time has come when these ""•^'^^ 
 colonies may fairly be asked to contribute towards 
 the maintenance of the fleet which protects their 
 
lis CRCISE TO INLIA AND Al'STRALIA IN 1880-87 
 
 commerce, in addition to the outlay wbich they 
 have incurred for the defence of their ports and 
 harbours. He does not think that the demand 
 made upon the colonies is excessive, and believes 
 that the scheme propounded, which is necessarily 
 a tentative one, is the best that could have been 
 suggested under the circumstances. He had been 
 asked whether he thought that the class of vessels 
 which had been selected to reinforce the Australian 
 The Alls- squadron was the best suited for the purpose ; and 
 squadron he had said that, looking at the general conditions 
 of wind and sea on the Australian coast, it was 
 quite possible that vessels of greater power would 
 be more serviceable ; but it must be remembered 
 that the cost would be proportionately greater also. 
 Looking, then, at the financial aspect of the 
 question — which all governments have in view — 
 he regards the arrangement as satisfactory. ' And,' 
 he added, ' there is one fact that I think should 
 weigh greatly in the consideration of this matter. 
 It will be admitted that the Admiralty has acted 
 in perfect good faith, and with the best naval 
 advice at its command. It has recommended the 
 best flotilla which could be procured at a given 
 cost. The recommendation was considered by a 
 conference, at which the best available representa- 
 tives of the colonies were present, and after dis- 
 cussion they adopted it. This to me is a weighty 
 reason why the plan should be endorsed. As an 
 outsider, I should be prepared to support it, 
 knowing that it is for a limited term — for ten years 
 
X. — KOCKHAJtPTON TO COOKTOWN 119 
 
 is a brief space in the history of a nation — so that Period 
 it can be watched, and either modified or extended, men?''*' 
 I should prefer it to being asked to contribute to 
 the purchase of a ship which at the end of ten 
 years might be obsolete.' Some writers, he knew, 
 advocated the establishment of a separate navy. 
 ' AVhat,' he asks, ' do you think could be obtained Advun- 
 for the sum that the colonies are asked to con- cofonies "^ 
 tribute? What would 125,000^. do? Simply 
 purchase a few torpedo-boats.' Lord Brassey 
 thinks that the squadron in the Australian waters 
 should be strengthened by a redistribution of the 
 fleet and the withdrawal of ships from the 
 American coast, where they are not so much 
 required. For all reasons, then, he would like to 
 see the Australian station largely augmented, and 
 rendered the greatest British station outside Euro- 
 pean waters. Three years on the East India 
 station deteriorated and weakened a crew, whilst 
 three years in Australian waters should turn them 
 out in the prime of health and activity. 
 
 In answer to a remark drawing Lord Brassey' s 
 attention to the statements reported to have been 
 made by Lord Eandolph Churchill with reference statements 
 to the maladministration of the Navy, Lord Bandoiph 
 Brassey said that there were a number of state- 
 ments made by the ex-Chancellor of the Exchequer 
 which were fully answered and refuted in the 
 ' Times ' a day or two afterwards upon the 
 authority of Captain Fitzgerald, who was engaged 
 in the operations alluded to. His lordship 
 
 Cliurchill 
 
120 CRUISE TO IXDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 our navy 
 
 remarked that it is to be regretted that a man of 
 such prominence as Lord Eandolph should make 
 statements — which are invested with importance 
 and gain pubHcity because of his position — whilst 
 the answers which come with the weight of 
 practical knowledge are not so widely circulated. 
 No doubt there was a reluctance on the part of 
 the British Government to embark in such a 
 policy of profuse naval expenditure as that which 
 France embarked in some time ago, but when the 
 necessity was made clear it was promptly met, 
 Rtieugtii o£ and in one year there was an increase of 2,000,000Z. 
 on the Naval Estimates. Our Navy was now 
 infinitely stronger than that of France in ironclads 
 and swift cruisers. Russia need not be seriously 
 regarded as a naval power. She might, and very 
 probably would, obtain swift merchant vessels, 
 equip them with light guns, and with them harass 
 our trade and send up the rates of insurance. 
 This danger could be met and minimised by 
 prompt action and adequate vigilance. As an 
 instance of how little this danger was to be 
 dreaded, Lord Brassey remarked that during the 
 last war scare every suspicious Russian vessel was 
 watched by a British cruiser, which had instruc- 
 tions to keep her constantly in view. Russian 
 agents would purchase vessels in case of war, but 
 their movements would be watched, and when 
 they made an offer for a vessel the British Govern- 
 ment was sure to be acquainted of the fact. 
 Russia has. _few fast ships, Our own resources 
 
 Action of 
 British 
 cruisers iu 
 last war 
 scare 
 
X.— ^EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 121 
 
 are daily increasing, and the last step taken by the 
 Admiralty in encouraging the construction of 
 merchant steamers which could be converted into 
 armed cruisers would greatly add to our naval 
 strength. Eussia to-day, according to Lord 
 Brassey, is just what she was years ago — a mighty 
 nation to resist invasion, but powerless to strike 
 at any distance. 
 
 ' You think, then,' our representative asked, 
 ' that, in the event of England being engaged in a 
 European war, the Australian colonies would be 
 attacked ? ' 
 
 ' I think,' said Lord Brassey, ' that no hostile Security of 
 fleet could come into these waters without a 
 superior British fleet following them.' Eussia 
 would not muster a fighting fleet for the purpose 
 of invading Australia without England getting 
 together a stronger one to anticipate her. Indeed, 
 our naval position is as secure, Lord Brassey 
 thinks, as is our military position in India. If any 
 danger exists in India at all, it is rather through 
 the operations of agents at the bazaars than by 
 any direct invasion ; and he does not think that 
 any internal troubles need be apprehended. 
 
 Eeverting again for a moment to the subject 
 of Federation, Lord Brassey alluded to the eager- 
 ness which British capitalists evinced to invest in British 
 colonial speculations, and doubted whether such ^*^"J*aiia 
 an eagerness would exist if less cordial relations 
 existed between the colonies and the mother 
 country. There was perhaps a good deal of senti- 
 
122 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 ment in this, but it could not be doubted that it 
 existed, and that the idea of repudiation would be 
 associated with separation. 
 
 Descrip- I must uot concludc without a brief description 
 
 Rock°' °^ *^^^ town. Eockhampton is on the Fitzroy 
 
 immpton river, 25 miles from its mouth. Large steamers 
 have been brought up to this port, but the natural 
 harbour of Port Alma, at the mouth of the Fitzroy, 
 offers great advantages. It has been proposed to 
 connect Port Alma with Eockhampton by railway. 
 The scheme is not regarded with favour by those 
 who have vested interests in the vicinity of the 
 present terminus. From Eockhampton the rail- 
 way has been carried as far as Alice, 326 miles 
 inland. The people here complain that, in defe- 
 rence to Brisbane influences, the Government has 
 not pushed the railway with the vigour which 
 should have been shown. 
 
 The population of Eockhampton is 10,000. 
 
 streets and The strects are on the usual rectangular plan. 
 
 buildings rpj^g buildiiigs are chiefly of wood and one-storied. 
 Banks and hotels are numerous. The public 
 schools, the grammar school, the hospital, and the 
 botanic gardens are all creditable to a young 
 community not a generation old. The attractions 
 of the place are the fine river and the chains of 
 hills, wooded to the summit, which traverse this 
 part of the country, ridge upon ridge extending in 
 all directions as far as the eye can reach. 
 
 Leave Augiist 4. — Weighed anchor at 10 p.m. and 
 
 hampton proceeded down the river. 
 
X. — ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 123 
 
 August 5. — Anchored from 2 a.m. until 8 
 A.M., when we weighed and proceeded towards 
 the mouth of the Fitzroy river. At 10.30 A.M. 
 made sail to a breeze from the south-east, which 
 enabled us to make a fine run to the northward. 
 
 The east coast of Australia at this season of The east 
 the year is a perfect cruising ground for yachts- Austiaiia 
 men. The Great Barrier reef, extending for a ^°°,\. 
 
 ' _ o yachting 
 
 distance of 1,000 miles from Swain Heefs to Cape water 
 Yorke, protects the coast from the heavy swell of 
 the Pacific. The steady breezes from the south- 
 east are most favourable for sailing, especially in 
 the direction in which we are steering. At 4 p.m. 
 we were off Pine Island, a small islet of the 
 Percy group, on which a light has been established. 
 From Pine Island onwards to the Whitsunday 
 Passage the navigation recalls the experiences of 
 many pleasant summers on the west coast of 
 Scotland. The inner route, which we followed, 
 passes between rocks and islands, presenting the 
 most varied and picturesque forms. The Percy Percy and 
 Isles form a distant group, extending twenty berhxnd 
 miles from north to south, and eight miles from ^^^'"'^ 
 east to west. Many of these islands are covered 
 with pine-trees. To the westward of the Percy 
 Isles a still larger group has received the collec- 
 tive name of Northumberland, the several islands 
 being distinguished by familiar Northumbrian 
 names. Advancing northwards, at a distance of 
 some sixty miles from the Percy group, the Cum- 
 berland, Sir James Smith, and "Whitsunday groups 
 
124 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALU IN 1886-87 
 
 The coast 
 mountains 
 
 Whitsun- 
 day 
 Passage 
 
 form a continuous archipelago on the eastern side 
 of the passage. The highest peaks attain an 
 elevation little short of 1,000 feet. The islands 
 are for the most part richly wooded. Some peaks 
 are clothed with timber to the summit, others 
 are smooth and grassy, a few are bare of vegeta- 
 tion. The rocks are magnificent. Paternoster 
 rises sheer from the water to a height of more 
 than 900 feet. 
 
 Turning from the sea to the mainland, the 
 coast range at a short distance inland forms a 
 continuous barrier, varying in height from 3,000 
 to upwards of 4,000 feet. At Whitsunday 
 Passage the line of coast is broken by a noble 
 promontory. Cape Conway, at its south-eastern 
 extremity, rises to a height of 1,637 feet. A 
 chain of peaks extends northwards from Cape 
 Conway to Mount Drysander, and forms a fine 
 amphitheatre of hills on the western side of the 
 Whitsunday Passage. On the eastern side is a 
 group of islands of larger size than those to the 
 southward. Whitsunday, the largest of these 
 islands, is eleven miles in length. It has two 
 commanding peaks. Its valleys and lowlands are 
 richly wooded. 
 
 Whitsunday Passage is twenty miles in length. 
 At its narrowest part it is contracted to a breadth 
 of two miles. On the mainland side the passage 
 opens out into the fine natural harbour of Port 
 Molle. On the eastern side the line of shore is 
 broken by the bays of Whitsunday Island, and 
 
X.— KOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 125 
 
 the channels which divide it from the smaller 
 islands, by which it is completely surrounded. 
 At this interesting part of the Australian coast 
 the breeze blew fair from the south-east, the sky 
 was cloudless, the air most balmy. The abun- 
 dant vegetation had been refreshed by recent 
 showers. 
 
 Cape Gloucester was reached in about three Anchor oft 
 hours after we had issued from the Whitsunday isiancf^ '^'^ 
 Passage. Bounding the cape we anchored for 
 the night close under the land. Shortly after we 
 had anchored the moon rose from behind Glouces- 
 ter Island. Beaching to a height of 2,000 feet, 
 the harmonious and graceful curves of the lofty 
 ridge of the island were seen with beautiful effect 
 in the dark shadow against the silvery sky. 
 
 Augzist 7. — After morning service we weighed. 
 Under easy sail we crossed the mouth of Edge- proceed 
 cumbe Bay and anchored in Port Denison. ""poH ''"' 
 
 We took a walk ashore through the moribund Deuison 
 settlement of Bowen. Notwithstanding the great Bowen 
 superiority of its harbour, Bowen has been going 
 back, while the neighbouring port of Townsville 
 has been advancing with rapid strides. The ex- 
 planation is not far to seek. Townsville has been 
 favoured in the essential matter of railways. 
 Bowen has not yet been accorded the same 
 advantage. A branch is promised which will con- 
 nect the port with the Townsville line. A heap of 
 rails has been landed as an earnest on the part of 
 the Government of their intention to proceed 
 
126 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Prospects 
 of emi- 
 grants to 
 Qiieeiis- 
 land 
 
 Proceed 
 to Towns- 
 viUe 
 
 TOth the works. The land beyond Bowen being 
 rich, the port will undoubtedly become prosperous 
 ■when railway communication is established with 
 the interior. 
 
 At the present time Bowen has scarcely 1,000 
 inhabitants. It depends mainly on Government 
 expenditure. There are several resident officials 
 connected with the court-house, the land-offices, 
 and postal service. Bowen has a fine pier in good 
 repair. 
 
 The registrar of the court was kind enough to 
 accompany us on our walk. We had a chat on 
 the prospects of emigrants in Queensland. 
 Slender, indeed, are the chances for the middle 
 class, with a moderate education, with no capital, 
 and not brought up to a trade. For men of 
 capital the opportunities are unbounded. The 
 crowning instance in the colony is that of Mr. 
 Tyson, who from a simple shepherd has become a 
 capitalist of many mihions sterling. His profits 
 have been largely made in buying and selling 
 stations. Por the working man with a trade this 
 colony also offers rare opportunities. 
 
 August 8. — Weighed at daylight under sail 
 and made a rapid passage to Townsville. We 
 covered the distance of 104 miles in ten hours. 
 
 August 9. — AValked through Townsville. The 
 town, which has a population of 12,000, is built 
 on a tongue of land between the sea and Ross 
 Creek. It consists of one main street, containing 
 banks, public offices, counting-houses, and well- 
 
X. — EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOAYN 127 
 
 supplied stores and shops. The bustle in the Flourish- 
 streets and the flourishing and prosperous appear- a^eoFthe 
 ance everywhere were quite cheering. Townsville °"" 
 owes its prosperity to its railway, which is already 
 opened to a distance of 200 miles into the interior, 
 and which has made it the port of a large area 
 of pastoral country and for several promising 
 goldfields. 
 
 Townsville is on an open bay, and the shoal The 
 water extends some two miles from the beach. A 
 breakwater is in course of construction, and dredg- 
 ing operations are being prosecuted with energy. 
 By these means the defects of the port will in 
 course of time be remedied. 
 
 We had purposed to make excursions from 
 Townsville to the fine cattle stations belonging to 
 Sir Thomas Mcllwraith and to the Charters Towers 
 goldfields, but my wife was too indisposed to 
 attempt the journey, and we proceeded in the proceed 
 afternoon under sail to Challenger Bay, a fine anchor in 
 anchorage in the Palm Islands, where we brought challenger 
 up shortly after sunset. 
 
 August 10. — Proceeded under sail to Dunge- Duugeness 
 ness, at the southern entrance to the Hinchinbrook 
 Channel. 
 
 August 11. — Went up the Herbert river, a The 
 distance of six miles, to the terminus of a tram 
 road formed by the Colonial Sugar Company to 
 their mills at Victoria. The Herbert is navigable 
 only for steam launches and barges. The banks 
 of the river are flat, and covered with a dense and 
 
 Herbert 
 river 
 
128 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Sugar 
 industry of 
 Queens- 
 land 
 
 picturesque jungle. The whole district is well 
 adapted for the growth of sugar. No less than 
 9,600 tons were produced in 1886, and the growth 
 is steadily increasing. 
 
 The aggregate sugar statistics of Queensland 
 for 1886 were : — 
 
 Labour in 
 the culti- 
 vation of 
 sugar 
 
 Proceed 
 through 
 Rocking- 
 ham 
 Channel 
 
 Area under cane 
 Area crushed . 
 Total yield 
 
 54,010 acres 
 34,657 „ 
 58,545 tons 
 
 The value may be taken at 19^. 4s. 5d. per 
 ton. 
 
 For the cultivation of sugar on the Herbert 
 both British and coloured labour is employed — 
 British workmen in the mills, the coloured people 
 in cutting the cane. Wages for Englishmen range 
 from twenty-five shillings upwards weekly. We 
 talked to some of the wives of the workmen. 
 Several are recent arrivals from Lancashire. 
 Their dwellings are of the simplest description, 
 made of corrugated iron or of straw, and scattered 
 at haphazard in a clearing in the jungle or on the 
 banks of the river. These pioneers of cultivation 
 have to lead a hard life and bear many privations. 
 They seemed not discontented, and were full of 
 pluck and energy. Their circumstances are those 
 in which the colonising qualities of the Anglo- 
 Saxon race come to the front in a marked 
 manner. 
 
 August 12. — Weighed at 9 a.m. and pro- 
 ceeded under steam through the Eockingham 
 Channel, which separates Hinchinbrook, an island 
 
X.— KOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 129 
 
 of magnificent mountains, from the mainland. 
 For a distance of twenty-eight miles the narrow 
 channel winds in graceful curves between the 
 coast range of Queensland and the superb peaks 
 and corries of Hinchinbrook Island. A dense 
 mass of tropical vegetation covers the level spaces 
 on either shore, and sometimes ascends to the 
 topmost ridges of the hills. The higher ground is 
 for the most part bare of trees. The lines of the 
 far-extending ridges, projecting buttresses, and 
 receding corries are the more sharply defined. 
 The weather was the most favourable that could 
 have been desired. The sky was clouded, but the 
 sun at intervals poured down a golden light on 
 every part of the landscape. These fitful but 
 brilliant gleams enhanced the effects of shadow. 
 The higher slopes and precipices were of a rich 
 purple, and soft and silvery mists crept upwards 
 through glen and valley, or rested in dense masses 
 on the tableland above. 
 
 We called at Cardwell, a decayed little port, Caii at 
 with some 200 inhabitants. The pier is in ruins. 
 The settlement was originally formed in the ex- 
 pectation of gi-eat results from an adjacent gold- 
 field, which was soon exhausted. The court 
 house and the residence of the magistrate and 
 postmaster are the only relics of an abortive 
 attempt. 
 
 We were assured that much of the land in the 
 neighbourhood is well adapted to the cultivation 
 of sugar. A large selection has been taken by 
 VOL. II. K 
 
130 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Proceed to 
 Mourilyan 
 
 Cattle in 
 Queens- 
 land 
 
 Visit to 
 
 sugar 
 
 plantation 
 
 Mr. Tyson, but he declines to continue the growth 
 of sugar, which he had commenced with some 
 vigour, so long as the planters are threatened with 
 legislation which, will prohibit the employment of 
 coloured labour. 
 
 At Card well we were received by the magistrate, 
 Mr. Walsh, and by the chairman of the local 
 board. They presented an address of welcome. 
 
 After an hour and a half of pleasant conversa- 
 tion we returned on board and steamed to 
 Mom-ilyan, a distance of forty miles. The harbour 
 is small and the entrance only 200 yards wide, 
 but the depth is sufficient for vessels of size, and 
 the shelter inside is perfect. A tramway connects 
 Mourilyan with the mills and plantations of the 
 Mourilyan Sugar Company. Their business is 
 prosperous. 
 
 Mourilyan is completely cut off from the 
 country inland by the high mountains of the coast 
 range. Behind those mountains on the upland 
 pastures are the great stations for horned cattle. 
 The herds of Queensland already number more 
 than 4,000,000 head, and the districts to the north 
 have an advantage over those of the south in the 
 assured and abundant rainfall. 
 
 August 13. — Daylight revealed the extreme 
 loveliness of the harbour of Mourilyan embosomed 
 in its richly wooded hills. At 11 we started 
 on the tramway to the sugar plantations of the 
 Mourilyan Company, Mr. Nash, one of the 
 partners, being our kind host. The distance 
 
X.— ROCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOWN 131 
 
 from the harbour to the mills is seven miles. The 
 tramway has been carried through a dense tropical 
 jungle. The masses of foliage were rich beyond 
 description. 
 
 On our arrival at the mills we lunched and 
 afterwatds visited them. They are situated on 
 the banks of the Johnson river, but the diffi- 
 culties of navigation are such that it was thought 
 necessary to connect the plantation with a good 
 harbour b}' the tramway which we had traversed, 
 and upon the construction of which 25,000/. were 
 expended. 
 
 The work of clearing the jungle is most 
 laborious, and therefore costly. The expense of 
 cutting, down timber for the first rough cropping 
 is 101. per. acre. The complete clearing and cost of 
 grubbing of roots for the purposes of ploughing tJfe™|]e 
 and permanent cultivation is not less than 201. 
 an acre. The cost of clearing alone is thus 30/. 
 an acre. The machinery of the mills, of Scotch 
 manufacture, cost more than 60,000/. Some 900 
 acres have been brought under cultivation. The 
 total capital already expended may be taken at 
 200,000/. The yield of sugar is from five to three 
 tons per acre. The price may be taken at 20/. 
 per ton. The production of sugar last year was 
 2,050 tons. 
 
 The successful results of labour imported from Javanese 
 Java are a special feature at Mourilyan. We '^ °^' . 
 heard an excellent character of the Javanese 
 workpeople. They are sturdy and most docile. 
 
 K 2 
 
132 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 18«6-87 
 
 Imported 
 
 labour 
 
 necessary 
 
 Leave 
 Mourilj'an 
 
 Cape 
 Kimberley 
 
 They are imported here for a term of three years, 
 under strict engagements with the Dutch Govern- 
 ment. An advance of two to three pounds is 
 given to each workman before he leaves home. 
 His fare costs 61. to Queensland. His wages are 
 30s. a month and found. A system of supervision 
 by Javanese seraigns has been found to answer 
 admirably. Javanese are employed to drive loco- 
 motives, and for the management of the boilers 
 and most of the machinery in the mills. 
 
 In the event of a legislative prohibition of the 
 employment of impoited labour, it would be im- 
 practicable for planters to carry on the cultivation 
 of sugar on a large scale. The sugar would be 
 grown by small cultivators, who would bring their 
 produce to the mills to be crushed and refined. 
 Be the contributors many or be they few, the mills 
 could only be established by a large expenditure 
 of capital. 
 
 We steamed out of Mourilyan on a glorious 
 evening. Outside the harbour a light breeze was 
 blowing from the south-east, to which we made 
 sail. At midnight we passed through the narrow 
 channel which divided the Frankland Islands 
 from the mainland at Cape Grefton. 
 
 August 14. — A perfect day. The wind was 
 light, and we stole quietly along under balloon 
 canvas. The scenery of the coast is magnificent. 
 
 At sunset we were off Cape Kimberley. At this 
 point the massive wall of the coast range of 
 Northern Queensland is broken by the valley of 
 
X.— EOCKHAMPTON TO COOKTOAVN 
 
 133 
 
 1 
 
 Sail 
 
 Steam 
 
 Remarks 
 
 August 6 
 
 214 
 
 43 
 
 Anchored in Edgecumbe 
 Bay 
 
 „ 7 
 
 77 
 
 — 
 
 Anchored off Bowen 
 
 8 
 
 50 
 
 — 
 
 
 9 
 
 64 
 
 — 
 
 ,, off Townsville 
 
 „ 10 
 
 43 
 
 — 
 
 „ in Challenger 
 Bay, Palm Island 
 
 „ 11 
 
 22 
 
 — 
 
 Anchored off Dungeness, 
 Bockingham Channel 
 
 ,. 12 
 
 — 
 
 24 
 
 Called at Cardwell 
 
 „ 13 
 
 — 
 
 46 
 
 Arrived off Mourilyan 
 
 „ 14 
 
 67 
 
 4 
 
 
 „ 15 
 
 75 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 612 
 
 125 
 
 
 Total distance from 
 
 
 
 
 Portsmouth 
 
 12,480 
 
 8,654 Total, 21,134 miles 
 
 sceiieiy 
 
 the Daintree and by deep ravines, which penetrate 
 into the furthest recesses of the hills. Eidge 
 could be seen rising beyond ridge, and peak beyond 
 peak, invested with the rich colours of the after- 
 glow in the tropics. As night approached the 
 mists and clouds gathered on the topmost ridges 
 assumed a darker hue. The sky became grey and 
 silver, the distant coast a tender violet. In lovely Coast 
 majesty the summit of the Peter Botte Mountain 
 towered above the clouds. 
 
 August 15. — Proceeding during the night with 
 a favourable breeze, we threaded the narrows 
 off Point Archer. Shortly before dawn on 
 August 15 we were off Cooktown. At 8 a.m. we 
 steamed into the harbour. 
 
 Analysis of Log 
 Bochhampton to Cooktown 
 
 Arrive at 
 Cooktown 
 
134 CEUISE TO INDIA ASD AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Cooktown 
 
 Buildings 
 and popu- 
 lation 
 
 H.M.S. 
 ' Harrier ' 
 
 XI. — COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 
 
 Cooktown is picturesquely situated in an amphi- 
 theatre of hills, of which Mount Cook is the most 
 considerable. The small port is formed by the 
 mouth of the Endeavour river. Here Captain 
 Cook beached his vessel for repairs after serious 
 injuries sustained on coral reefs in the vicinity. 
 
 Cooktown is well laid out, and there are abun- 
 dant indications that larger and more substantial 
 buildings will rapidly be substituted for the pro- 
 visional structures of which the town at present 
 mainly consists. The population is 2,600. The 
 Palmer river gold diggings and some recent dis- 
 coveries of tin, have attracted a large number of 
 miners. A railway will shortly connect Cooktown 
 with the gold mines. A section of thirty-two 
 miles has been already opened. 
 
 From Cooktown the mails for New Guiijea are 
 carried regularly by H.M.S. ' Harrier,' a schooner 
 yacht purchased by the Admiralty. The vessel is 
 under the command of Lieutenant Pike, a dash- 
 ing officer, who succeeds in maintaining an 
 average speed at sea of nearly ten knots, and 
 fearlessly and skilfully penetrates the Barrier reef 
 through channels never surveyed or laid down on 
 the charts. 
 
 The crew of the ' Harrier ' lead a very different 
 life from -that on board the ironclad from which a 
 
XI. — COOKTOAVN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 135 
 
 number have lately been drawn for this service. Arduous 
 At sea these men are subjected to much discom- 
 fort, v^rhich they face with highly creditable pluck. 
 I have often alluded to the excessive length of 
 commissions in the British Navy. Men should 
 certainly not remain in the ' Harrier ' more than 
 two years. 
 
 By the advice of the Mayor, we drove out 
 three miles on the only road practicable for 
 wheeled conveyances. We were fully rewarded 
 by the picturesque view of the town, the harbour, 
 the river, the coast range. Mount Cook, and the 
 blue sea in the distance. 
 
 August 17. — We sailed from Cooktown at ^^l^^,^ 
 8 A.M. The inner passage from Cooktown to 
 Thursday Island is sheltered from the heaving 
 waves of the Pacific by the natural breakwater of 
 the Great Barrier reef. We were carried forward inside the 
 
 Great 
 
 at a speed varymg from eight to twelve knots an Barrier 
 hour by the south-east trade wind. We felt the 
 full force of the favourable breeze, unaccompanied 
 by the slightest motion. Along the whole line of 
 the inner passage the navigation is intricate, and 
 demands ceaseless watchfulness. 
 
 With the aid of good charts, and in the broad 
 daylight, the navigation presents but little diffi- 
 culty. By night the risks are greatly increased, J^'^™^''' 
 The track recommended by the Admiralty has navigation 
 
 It 1 ** night 
 
 been minutely examined, but small heads of coral 
 may be missed even after a diligent search. New 
 dangers are from time to time reported on the 
 
136 CRUISE TO INDIA AKI) AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 narrow track usually followed by shipping. Great 
 pains have been devoted by Commander Heath, 
 E.N., at the head of the Marine Department of 
 the Queensland Government, in marking out the 
 sunken reefs and rocks by beacons. Three light- 
 ships have been placed at difficult points in the 
 channel affording great assistance to the naviga- 
 Moie light- tion. Morc are urgently needed, but it would 
 
 ships o J 
 
 needed be Unreasonable to look for further expenditure 
 from the Queensland Government. The high- 
 way is equally valuable to the trade of all the 
 Australian colonies both with China and the 
 mother country, and if more is to be done the 
 expense should be met from a common fund. 
 The steamers using this route usually employ 
 pilots, and for night navigation their services are 
 indispensable, but 1 felt that my nautical honour 
 was involved in navigating the ' Sunbeam ' with- 
 out assistance. 
 
 On the first day after leaving Cooktown we 
 made a comparatively short run of eighty miles, 
 anchoring in the afternoon under the low coral 
 
 Land on a iglaiids of the Howick group. We went ashore 
 
 coral islftnd o j. 
 
 on one of the islands for an hour. The beach 
 is of coral formation. The island is covered with 
 a dense growth of mangroves. We picked up 
 some shells, shot a few birds, and examined a 
 native encampment near the shore. The huts 
 were formed of sticks and thatch, the end facing 
 the prevailing trade wind being closed. The 
 native architecture at its best is of the bird's-nest 
 
XI. — COOKTOWN . TO THUBSJJAY, ISLA>^D 137 
 
 order. The debris stripped from a wreck was 
 lying round the huts. 
 
 August 18. — Weighed at 5.30 a.m., and scudded 
 before the brisk trade wind until an hour 
 after sunset, when we anchored close by the Anchor oft 
 
 „, / T 1 T !• T 1 • Claremont 
 
 Claremont Island lightship, under the shelter island 
 .of a coral reef. The distance covered was 118 
 miles. 
 
 The coast which we passed to-day was remark- The coast 
 able for an isolated range of mountains formed of 
 basaltic columns. These mountains rise at a 
 short distance south of Cape Grenville. To the 
 north of the cape the passage recommended skirts 
 a group of islands, named after the great hydro- 
 grapher Captain Flinders, bare of vegetation 
 but beautiful in the form and colouring of the 
 rocks. 
 
 Aiigtist 19. — Went on board the ' Claremont ' 
 lightship. The master, a Swede, and his wife, a The occu- 
 Dane, have been five years in the vessel. They the^'Ciare- 
 are allowed a month's leave every year, but only J|Xt*ship 
 avail themselves of the privilege in alternate years. 
 Their rare visits to Brisbane are not an unmixed 
 pleasure. They soon grow tired of the life of 
 cities ; as the good yfiie put it, ' There is too much 
 talk.' The cheerfulness with which a life of 
 isolation is endured by these good people is a 
 lesson to the dull and discontented. The wife 
 was radiant with the happy spirit of contentment. 
 Her cabin was a model of neatness. They had a 
 large collection of corals on board, which they 
 
138. CRUISE TO INDIA AND- AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 most liberally presented to us. Another distrac- 
 tion is found in painting, by no means discredit- 
 ably, landscapes on sea-shells. The lightships 
 are visited by the local service mail steamers once 
 a tortnight. 
 
 A coral 'We pulled from the lightship to the reef. It 
 
 is a bare heap of sand and coral, save on its high- 
 est part, -where a few tufts of coarse grass are 
 grovping. Here we found a native of St. John, 
 New Brunswick, brought up, as he told us, by 
 foreign parents, engaged in the business of col- 
 lecting beches-de-mer, or dried sea-slugs, for 
 which there is a large demand in China. This 
 white man had in his employ thirty natives. He 
 had five fine boats, which are constantly at work 
 
 a plication i^^i'^^ the Great Barrier reef. The money em- 
 
 of capital barked in this enterprise had been advanced by a 
 bank at Cooktown. How little do depositors in 
 banks realise the manifold applications of the 
 capital which they have been instrumental in 
 providing ! The solitary white man surrounded 
 by natives carries his life in his hands. Instances 
 of treacherous attack during sleep are numerous 
 and probably provoked by harsh and cruel treat- 
 ment. 
 
 Boches-de- Beches-de-mcr command a high price. We 
 
 were shown the accumulated casks full of this 
 
 unattractive edible, representing a value of many 
 
 Industry hundreds of pounds. The head of this establish- 
 under . -^ 
 difficulties ment was living miserably in a shelter formed of 
 
 tattered canvas and battered sheets of corrugated 
 
- XI.--CO0KT0WN TO THUESDAY. ISLAND 139" 
 
 iron. His food was of the rudest. His dress was 
 ragged. The pest of flies was intolerable. It 
 was evident that he had the power of command 
 and organisation, and that he was not without 
 education. He produced the Admiralty charts of 
 the coast and Barrier reef, with large additions to 
 the delineation of the reefs from his own explora- 
 tions. 
 
 We weighed at 11.30, and anchored under the 
 Piper Islands an hour after sunset. Distance, P'per 
 
 . '- . Islands 
 
 eighty-five miles. 
 
 August 20. — Weighed at 5.30 a.m. Bounded 
 Cape Grenville and the adjacent group of islands 
 at a tearing pace, with a strong trade wind on the 
 beam. From this point to the entrance of the 
 Albany Pass, a distance of sixty miles, the sterility f,'g^^'„'J^^j°* 
 of the coast is truly appalling. It consists of bare 
 and burnt up sand-hills, red cliffs, and black 
 volcanic hills. The pass is a narrow strait, three 
 miles in length and a little more than half a mile 
 wide, separating Albany Island from the north- 
 eastern corner of the great Australian continent. 
 The tides run through the pass at six knots an 
 hour. As we were heading the tide we boldly 
 entered the pass under sail, and made a running 
 moor in the slight indentation of the island shore 
 designated on the charts as Port Albany. The Anchor at 
 scenery of the pass is pleasing. The shore on Albany 
 either hand is hilly and well wooded. 
 
 On the mainland a small Government establish- 
 ment, was formerly maintained and garrisoned 
 
I'lO CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 with marines. This settlement has been trans- 
 ferred to Thursday Island. The old mess-house 
 is now occupied as a cattle station by Mr. Jardine. 
 
 The The Jardines originally came up to Somerset from 
 
 ar ines Rockhampton some twenty-five years ago. North 
 Queensland was in those days an undiscovered 
 country. The journey occupied a year and a half. 
 The difficulties in bringing herds of cattle tlirough 
 a vast region with no known tracks, and full of 
 hostile and treacherous natives, may readily be 
 conceived. A visit to these countries can alone 
 enable the dwellers in settled and civilised lands 
 to realise the hardships and privations endured by 
 pioneers. 
 
 August 21. — In the afternoon visited the 
 
 Somerset statiou at Somerset. Had a thorough drenching 
 in crossing the pass. The south-east trade blows 
 through with the force of a gale, and when the 
 tide is ebbing, a short sea gets up, which is much 
 felt in a small boat. Returning from the main- 
 land we landed on Albany Island. It is not 
 cultivated, but cattle find some scanty pasture. 
 
 Leave Port August 22. — Sailed across to the Thursday 
 Island group. The navigation is simplicity itself 
 as compared with the narrow channels between 
 sunken rocks and reefs through which we have 
 been threading our way from Cooktown. The 
 dangers even here were illustrated by the wreck 
 of a fine barque which we passed high and dry on 
 the north-west reef. 
 
 The reefs round Thursday Island afford a 
 
 Albany 
 
XI.— COOKTOWN TO THURSDAY ISLAND 141 
 
 tempting opportunity for the perpetration of those 
 rascahties of the sea which will never cease so long Rascalities 
 as the owners of ships are allowed to insure for the °' '''® ^^'^ 
 full, or more than the full, value of their property. A 
 recent instance has occurred in the case of a barque, 
 under Austrian colours, which we had met both at 
 Adelaide and Newcastle. In the broad daylight 
 the vessel was deliberately steered on to a reef, 
 scuttled, and abandoned by the master. He took 
 with him a portion of his crew, leaving eleven 
 Englishmen on board. He made for Thursday 
 Island, and sold the ship and her cargo of 1,800 
 tons of coal for 51. The vessel was got off at a 
 cost of 30/., and is now lying at Thursday Island. 
 
 We entered Normanby Sound from the western Normanby 
 entrance and therefore against the south-east 
 monsoon. Here for the first time since leaving 
 Cooktown we made use of steam. Our average 
 speed under sail, since we reached the zone of the 
 trade winds, has exceeded ten knots an hour. 
 
 The eastern coast of Australia, which we were 
 now quitting after so many weeks of interesting 
 navigation, is classic ground for the seaman from 
 its associations with Captain Cook, its first 
 discoverer, to whose happy faculty of nomenclature Nomen- 
 are due the appropriate names which have ever eoast'by" 
 since been retained for the most prominent parts, cooi'^'^ 
 On his voyage from New Zealand in 1770 Captain 
 Cook first struck the east coast of Australia at 
 Point Hicks, so named from the first lieutenant of 
 the ' Endeavour,' who first sighted it. Steering 
 
142 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 northwards, a fancied resemblance to the animal 
 suggested the name of Momit Dromedary. The 
 name Point Upright was given because the land 
 rose in a perpendicular cliff. A remarkable peaked 
 hill, which resembles a square dove-house with a 
 dome at the top, was called the Pigeon House. 
 Cape George was first seen on St. George's Day. 
 Eed Point indicates the colour of the land about 
 it. The great quantity of plants collected 
 suggested the name of Botany Bay. Cax^e Three 
 Points was so called because some lands projected 
 in three bluff points. Three hills bearing some 
 resemblance to each other were called the Three 
 Brothers. A point on which fires were seen that 
 produced a great quantity of smoke became Smoky 
 Cape. A peaked mountain, which indicated the 
 position of dangerous shoals, was called Mount 
 Warning. The extremity of the shoals is Point 
 Danger. Sandy Cape received its name from two 
 large patches of white sand, and Break Sea Spit 
 because inside it Captain Cook found smooth water. 
 In Bustard Bay he was regaled with the best bird 
 he had eaten since he left England. Cape Capricorn 
 lies directly under the tropics of that name. Cape 
 Manifold was so called from the number of high 
 hills which appeared over it. Thirsty Sound is 
 an inlet which afforded no fresh water. Whit- 
 sunday Passage was discovered on Whitsunday. 
 Near Magnetical Isle it was perceived that the 
 compass did not traverse well. Trinity Bay was 
 discovered on Trinity Sunday. Cape Tribulation 
 
XI. — COOKTOWX TO THIRSPAY ISLAND 143 
 
 was the last land seen before the ' Endeavour ' 
 struck on a coral reef, on which she was nearly 
 lost, and the river in which she was refitted is 
 called the Endeavour river. The disappointment 
 at not finding a passage to the northward was 
 commemorated in the name given to Cape Flat- 
 tery. Going ashore to a high point to obtain a 
 distant view of the coast. Captain Cook called it 
 Point Lookout. A conspicuous island on the 
 present inner route to the Torres Straits was called 
 Lizard Island, because no other animals were seen. 
 The islands which, by their position, enable the 
 navigators of to-day to pass through the Barrier reef 
 by the channel discovered by Captain Cook, were 
 named Direction Islands. The list could be con- 
 tinued to an indefinite length. The names com- 
 memorate — as it is fitting that they should — the 
 daring adventures and trying experiences of the 
 bold and skilful navigator, the precise observer 
 and admirable leader of men to whose explorations 
 Britain owes the creation of those new Britains 
 which already constitute so large a portion of the 
 Empire, and which have before them such a 
 splendid future. 
 
 Thursday Island belongs to a group divided Thursday 
 from the continent of Australia by the Endeavour 
 Strait. The Prince of Wales Channel, which is 
 the best passage between the Pacific and the 
 Eastern Archipelago, forms the boundary of the^ 
 group to the north. From this channel the islands 
 derive their name and their commercial importance. 
 
144 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Traffic 
 through 
 Torres 
 Straits 
 
 The 
 
 anchorage 
 and de- 
 fence of 
 Thui'sday 
 Island 
 
 The Torres Straits route is the most direct between 
 Austrahan ports and Canton, and between the 
 Queensland ports and Europe. In 1884, 397 ships, 
 aggregating 302,029 tons, passed Coode Island 
 through the Prince of Wales Channel. 
 
 The anchorage off Thursday Island is com- 
 modious and safe, with depth sufficient for vessels 
 drawing twenty- three feet. Sir John Coode 
 recommended that the coaling station should be 
 I'emoved from Thursday Island to Coode Island, 
 and that the anchorage in Bertie Bay should bo 
 protected Ijj' a breakwater. A large expenditure 
 would be necessary, and there does not appear any 
 adequate reason for the change. On the other 
 hand, there should be no hesitation or delay in 
 incurring the expenditure required to protect the 
 stores of coal at Thursday Island from the raids 
 of hostile cruisers. The position is so essentially 
 an Imperial concern that the whole charge cannot 
 fairly be thrown upon Queensland. The amount 
 to be provided is inconsiderable. Light guns and 
 earthworks would be a sufficient defence. The 
 garrison should be furnished from the marines, as 
 proposed for King George's Sound. 
 
 Thursday Island and the adjacent group may 
 be compared with the Orkneys. The resem- 
 blance is great in the distribution of land and 
 water and in the hydrographical conditions gene- 
 rally. It disappears when you gain the shore, 
 and contrast the roadless waste and improvised 
 dwellings of corrugated iron with the trim streets, 
 
XL— COOKTOWN TO~THURSDAY ISLAND 145 
 
 solid structures, and pervading comfort of Kirk- 
 wall. 
 
 The population of Thursday Island numbers Population 
 some 400 in the little settlement and 2,000 in the dastry'of 
 district. The island is the centre of a pearl-shelling """^ '^'*"^ 
 industry, which last year yielded 572 tons, valued 
 at 70,602Z. A temporary falling off has taken place 
 owing to the removal of a number of boats to the 
 north-west coast of Australia. Dm-ing the pre- 
 valence of the south-east monsoon the waters on 
 the north-west coast are sheltered, while the 
 Torres Straits are exposed to an almost incessant 
 gale. In the north-West monsoon the conditions 
 are reversed. The Torres Straits are sheltered. 
 The fishery on the north-west coast becomes 
 impracticable. Hurricanes, such as recently 
 caused a disastrous loss on the west coast of 
 Australia, are not felt in the straits. Attention 
 has now been directed to the coasts of New 
 Guinea, where large beds of pearl shell have been 
 discovered. This fishery can be carried on from 
 Thursday Island. 
 
 The pearl-shelling industry is prosecuted by The pearl 
 several firms mostly located at Sydney, and ^^'^S^ 
 represented at Thursday Island by agents, who 
 have retired from commands in the merchant 
 service. Each firm has an establishment on shore 
 where the shells are cleaned and packed for 
 exportation, and repairs to boats and diving 
 apparatus are effected. The boats are under the 
 command of the divers, many of whom are 
 VOL', n. L 
 
146 CKUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IX I886-R7 
 
 Leave 
 
 Thursday 
 
 Island 
 
 Tlirougli 
 the 
 
 FUnders 
 Passage 
 
 Anchor oil 
 
 Yorke 
 
 Island 
 
 coloured men. The crews are recruited from 
 Manilla, the South Sea Islands, and the Eastern 
 Archipelago. The divers are down from three to 
 four hours a day. They earn from 300?. to 400?. 
 a year. Seven fathoms is the best depth of water 
 in which they can work. Twenty-three fathoms 
 is an extreme depth. 
 
 August 25. — "Weighed at daylight and pro- 
 ceeded under steam for a cruise of exploration in 
 the great North-east Channel, which is generally 
 used by ships boimd from the Pacific to India, the 
 Archipelago, and China. 
 
 We went out through the Flinders Passage. 
 As we entered the open waters we encountered a 
 short choppy sea, more distressing to landsmen 
 than the longer billows of the open ocean. The 
 North-east Channel has deep water, and the water 
 space is ample for daylight navigation, but innu- 
 merable reefs and islands lie in the track, affording 
 protection from the ocean waves, but calling for 
 constant care and watchfulness. The day was 
 passed in taking cross-bearings and reconnoitring 
 from aloft. We anchored shortly after sunset 
 under the lee of Yorke Island, distant from 
 Thursday Island ninety miles. 
 
 The sailing directions are full of warnings as to 
 the hostility of the natives. This is no longer to 
 be apprehended. All the islands in this part of 
 the Pacific have been declared under the protec- 
 torate of the Government of Queensland. They 
 are frequently visited by the resident at Thursday 
 
XL— COOKTOWN TO THUESDAY ISLAND 147 
 
 Island. The chiefs of the several islands have 
 been supplied with boats to enable them to render 
 assistance to vessels in difficulties. 
 
 August 26. — Weighed at dayhght : at 10 A.M. Proceed 
 anchored in an excellent roadstead under the lee oS Damiey 
 of Darnley Island. This island differs from those inland 
 passed in our navigation yesterday, vv^hich were 
 mostly low and of coral formation. Darnley 
 Island is volcanic, its highest peak rising to a 
 height of 610 feet. From its elevation it forms a 
 valuable guiding mark for shipping entering the 
 North-east Channel. This island is a smaller 
 Tahiti, with the characteristic vegetation of a 
 tropical island — palms and bamboos — on the 
 higher ground. On the shore each indentation of 
 the land has its grove of cocoa-nuts and its pictu- 
 resque collection of native huts. 
 
 Mr. Milman, the Government Commissioner 
 at Thursday Island, was kind enough to embark 
 in charge of our expedition, and we had as a pas- 
 senger Mrs. Hunt, the wife of a missionary who 
 has just arrived from England, and who is pro- 
 ceeding to the mission station on Murray Island, 
 On landing the marks of British authority were Land ou 
 promptly displayed. The natives who ran the 
 boat ashore througih the surf wore ribbons 
 inscribed with the words 'Water Police.' On the 
 beach were two other natives, gaily attired in the 
 uniform of the Queensland Native Police. 
 
 The natives are now thoroughly peaceable. Progress of 
 Native teachers have been sent to every inhabited 
 
 L 2 
 
148 CRUISE TO INDIA AND ALTSTEALIA IX 1886-87 
 
 Murray 
 Island and 
 work of 
 London 
 Missionary 
 Society 
 
 Missionary 
 work in 
 New 
 Guinea 
 
 island from the central station at Murray Island. 
 Christianity is universally professed. We met at 
 Darnley the missionary vessel from Murray 
 Island. Mr. Savage, who has been alone at 
 Murray for the last thirteen months, v^as on 
 board. 
 
 Murray Island is a central station established 
 by the London Missionary Society for the train- 
 ing of native teachers, chiefly volunteers from the 
 South Sea Islands. When fully prepared for 
 their work these teachers are distributed to the 
 islands adjacent in the North-east Channel, or on 
 the Fly river in New Guinea, which is worked 
 from Murray. Further east the missions of New 
 Guinea are administered from Port Moresby. 
 Opinions differ as to the practical success of the 
 missionaries. The condition of Darnley Island is 
 a proof of their success. In Treachery Bay, in 
 1793, a party landing from a New South Wales 
 ■\essel met the tragic fate which is suggested 
 in the name. To-day we were received by the 
 people with touching cordiality, and saw on all 
 sides the indications of material well-being already 
 described. The improvement is the work of the 
 missionaries. 
 
 We spent a day at Darnley, lunching under 
 some shady trees by the simple building used as 
 the church, and had many friendly talks with the 
 natives. We heard from Mr. Savage and Mr. 
 Hunt the experiences of missionary work in New 
 Guinea. The beginnings in this as in everything 
 
XI.— COOKTOWX TO THlRSDAy ISLAND 149 
 
 are the hard part. The native teachers in New 
 Guinea are in constant Jeopardy, yet when they 
 j)erish there is never any lack of vohinteers in the 
 South Sea Islands, who come in a spirit of 
 Christian heroism to take the place of their 
 martyred brethren. 
 
 The natives at Darnley Island are a fine race The 
 
 I'll T • !■ n en natives of 
 
 physically, and mimensely in advance of the camiey 
 natives of Australia in intelligence and civilisation. ^'^^'^"'^ 
 They cultivate methodically the j'am and the 
 sweet potato. They possess poultry and pigs. 
 Their huts are excellent and their clothing good. 
 English is widely known. Their manner is most 
 friendly. The beche-de-mer fishery is carried 
 on from this island by several South Sea Islanders 
 who possess good boats for the purpose. 
 
 August 27. — Eeturned to Thursday Island Return to 
 from Darnley. The distance is 115 miles. We island ■ 
 made the passage under sail at an average speed 
 of eleven knots, and brought up after sunset in the 
 Flinders Passage, under the lee of Horn Island. 
 
 "We have now thoroughly explored the two 
 main passages converging at the Torres Strait 
 from the outer waters of the wide Pacific. 
 
 XII. — POET DAEWIN TO MAUEITIUS AND THE CAPE 
 
 The ' Sunbeam ' arrived at Port Darwin on Sep- Amve at 
 tember 6, under such circumstances as render it Darwin 
 impossible to offer any description from personal 
 observation. Some extracts may, however, be 
 
150 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 given from a lecture delivered in Adelaide on May 
 19, 1887, by Mr. Parsons, the Government Eesi- 
 dent. 
 Desorip- Palmerston, the name given to tlie settlement 
 
 Paimei-- Eit Port Darwin, is beautifully situated on wooded 
 PMon'^'' headlands, jutting out into the harbour, in whose 
 ample waters it is no figure of speech to say the 
 navies of Europe could be anchored. The build- 
 ings have been erected with considerable taste. A 
 fine esplanade has been laid out along the sea front. 
 The electric wire connects Palmerston with all the 
 great colonies of Australia. In constructing the 
 overland telegraph from South Australia, a great 
 middle section of the continent was discovered, 
 capable of producing pasture for tens of millions 
 of sheep and millions of cattle and horses. The 
 first section from the north, of what will eventu- 
 ally be the Trans-Australian Railway, has been 
 commenced, and is being carried out with energy 
 by Messrs. Miller, the well-known Melbourne con- 
 tractors for public works. 
 Area, ,tc. 'pj^g total area of the northern territory of South 
 
 of northern _ ^ .... 
 
 territory Australia is 523,620 square iniles. Within this 
 Australia vast expausc are stony wastes and waterless tracts, 
 vast rolling downs, wide grassy plains, rich allu- 
 vial flats, large navigable rivers, and metalliferous 
 areas, exceptionally rich in tin, coal, copper, and 
 silver. Thus far mining has been more successful 
 than agriculture. The Chinese have alone been 
 able to accomplish anything in cultivation. They 
 have gathered harvests of rice and sugar cane from 
 
Xir. — PORT DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE ,151 
 
 the limited areas which they have taken in hand. 
 On the banks of the rivers coffee could be grown 
 in many places. 
 
 The climate is tropical, and malaria with its Climate 
 fever and ague is prevalent. The mean tempera- 
 ture of the year is 75 degrees, and the thermometer 
 has never been seen lower than 68 degrees. The 
 atmosphere is dank, steamy, and heavy with 
 moisture during the wet season, and dry, parching, 
 and malarial during the dry season. 
 
 Port Darwin is the nearest point of communica- Port 
 tion by cable and mail steamer with the civilised °'™'" 
 world. 
 
 From Port Darwin to the Cape of Good Hope, Leave Port 
 and thence to Sierra Leone, the voyage lay for the arrive at" 
 most part within the zone of the south-east trades. '^"■"''''"^^ 
 Eodriguez Island was sighted on September 26, 
 and Mauritius was reached on September 29. It 
 is a painful task to attempt to describe scenes 
 which might have been painted with brighter 
 touches by another writer. To give the daily life, 
 which, needless to say, was very sad, I will not 
 attempt. 
 
 Mauritius is one of the few ports in which 
 sailing ships still hold the field against steamers. 
 It was filled with a noble fleet. As a mark of 
 sympathy, which touched us deeply, their flags 
 were hoisted at half-mast as soon as our sad in- 
 teUigence became known. PortLouia. 
 
 Viewed from the anchorage of Port Louis, the Y'®" ^'?'" 
 
 " the aneno- 
 
 island of Mauritius, presents, a scene. . of , much rage 
 
152 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Botanical 
 Gardens 
 
 The Obser- 
 vatoiy 
 
 •beauty. A chain of peaks and craters of pictu- 
 resque and fantastic forms runs through the island 
 from end to end. The needle-shaped Peter Botte, 
 2,784 feet, and the Pouce, 2,707 feet, are con- 
 spicuous summits. All the mountains are of 
 volcanic formation. Their barren precipices are 
 blue and purple, and their vegetation, watered by 
 frequent and abundant showers, is of the richest 
 green. The landscape displayed admirable effects 
 of colour, varying with every change from rain to 
 sunshine. 
 
 The Botanical Gardens and the Observatory 
 are the most interesting objects which Port. Louis 
 offers to the passing traveller. The gardens are 
 lovely. The lakes, surrounded by palm trees and 
 a most rich and abundant tropical vegetation, are a 
 charming feature. The fine and rare specimens 
 in the gardens included the Traveller's tree, 
 abounding in water, the Euffia palm from 
 Madagascar, the lettuce-headed palm, the talipot 
 palm, the Latania aurea from Eodriguez, and 
 another variety of Latania from Bound Island. 
 
 The Observatory, under the supervision of Dr. 
 Meldrum, is chiefly devoted to meteorological and 
 astronomical investigations. In addition to these 
 subjects, observations of the solar spots are taken 
 daily, and transmitted monthly to the Solar 
 Physics Committee in London. The transit of the 
 moon has been observed with much success. Sea 
 observations from the log books of vessels touch- 
 ing at Mauritius are carefully recorded. The 
 
XII.— PORT DAEWIN TO MAUEITIUS AND CAPE 153 
 
 tracks and positions at noon of 299 tropical 
 cj'clones, which swept over the Indian Ocean 
 south of the Equator from 1856 to 1886, have been 
 laid down on charts, and are ready for publication. 
 The in-curving theory of cyclones, as worked out 
 by Dr. Meldrum, is now generally adopted, and it 
 would appear that the rules given for the guidance 
 of ships in the Southern Indian Ocean have 
 been the means of saving much Hfe and property. 
 
 On the second day of our short stay we paid a 
 quiet visit to the acting Governor. The recent 
 political convulsions in Mauritius, in connection Political 
 with Sir John Pope-Hennessy, had by no means in Mami- 
 subsided. During his leave of absence the ''"^ 
 Governor was being represented, with admirable 
 tact and judgment, by Mr. Fleming, who had 
 already succeeded in establishing amicable re- 
 lations with both sides. The Creole population 
 of Mauritius, though only in a slight degree of 
 French descent, yet speak in patois, and take a 
 certain pride in claiming a French nationality. 
 Considerable jealousy exists between the English 
 and French residents in Mauritius. This has 
 been unfortunately increased by the proceedings 
 of Sir John Pope-Hennessy. The mass of the 
 population of Mauritius are of mixed race, 
 descendants of the coolies employed on the 
 plantations. French — or rather patois — speaking 
 Creoles come next in point of numbers. The 
 Chinese are the Universal shopkeepers. 
 
 Being about to cross a stormy part of the 
 
154 CRUISE TO INBIA AND AUSTRALLl IN 1886-87 
 
 Wind re- 
 cord for 
 six years 
 
 ocean, I asked for information at the Observatory, 
 and was at once supplied with the following return. 
 I give it as evidence of the great number of facts, 
 of value to seamen, which have been brought 
 together ; — 
 
 Gales to the southward of Mauritius in October, during the last 
 six years, as far as is known 
 
 Yciirs 
 
 Days 
 
 Latitude 
 
 Longitude 
 
 Eemarlis 
 
 
 October 
 
 
 
 
 1881 
 
 7-10 
 
 33°-43° 
 
 24°-54° 
 
 Strong gale 
 
 17 
 
 21-24 
 
 35°-38° 
 
 23°-49° 
 
 )j jfr 
 
 
 23-31 
 
 34°-40° 
 
 14<'-40° 
 
 Strong gale, heavy rain and 
 thunder 
 
 1882 
 
 1- 4 
 
 33°-41° 
 
 27°-57° 
 
 Whole gale 
 
 n 
 
 7-12 
 
 34°-39° 
 
 14°-39° 
 
 Whole gale, hail and light- 
 ning 
 
 „ 
 
 23-27 
 
 34°_S8° 
 
 16°-B7° 
 
 Strong gale 
 
 1883 
 
 3- 8 
 
 32°-41° 
 
 37°-86° 
 
 ,, ), 
 
 1, 
 
 9-12 
 
 35°-40° 
 
 31°-74° 
 
 
 n 
 
 23-31 
 
 36°-39° 
 
 17°-48° 
 
 ,, )t 
 
 )» 
 
 25-27 
 
 29°-22° 
 
 52°-56° 
 
 
 1884' 
 
 1- 2 
 
 36"'-37° 
 
 46°-50° 
 
 Whole gale 
 
 n 
 
 9-12 
 
 36°-40'^ 
 
 8°-19° 
 
 Strong gale 
 
 ,, 
 
 22-26 
 
 36°-37° 
 
 46°-54° 
 
 i» 1, 
 
 )t 
 
 28-30 
 
 37°-38° 
 
 33°-4l° 
 
 Whole gale 
 
 1885 
 
 1- 4 
 
 30°-38° 
 
 8°-40° 
 
 /Strong gale, thunder and 
 \ hghtning 
 
 »t 
 
 11-12 
 
 29°-38° 
 
 25°-33° 
 
 Heavy gale 
 
 ,, 
 
 19-20 
 
 35°-38° 
 
 18°-22° 
 
 Strong gale and heavy rain 
 
 1886 
 
 5-10 
 
 36°-40° 
 
 40°-54° 
 
 Furious westerly gale 
 
 ji 
 
 22-23 
 
 38°-39° 
 
 32°-36° 
 
 Strong gale 
 
 ,, 
 
 23-25 
 
 40°-41° 
 
 13°-24° 
 
 )) )t 
 
 i> 
 
 29-30 
 
 38°-39° 
 
 38°-48° 
 
 tt 1, 
 
 NoTK. — Most of the above gales were south of latitude 34° 
 are similar data for each month since 1848. 
 
 There 
 
 Later in the day we ascended the :Pouce. It 
 commands a view over the harbqur of Port Louis 
 and the interior of the island. . The. broad and 
 
XII. — POBT BAR WIN TO MAUEITIUS AND CAPE 155 
 
 shallow valleys, green with sugar cane, reminded 
 us much of our own South Downs. From the 
 Ponce we drove to the residence of a relative, who 
 is the owner of extensive sugar cane plantations. 
 The staple industry of Mauritius is the cultivation 
 of sugar. More than 100,000 tons are annually The augav 
 exported. India and Australia are the chief tiielsiand 
 markets. The bounty on the production of sugar 
 in France and Germany has driven the sugar of 
 Mauritius altogether out of Europe. Mauritius 
 received a heavy blow from the opening of the 
 Suez Canal, but it still possesses abundant re- 
 sources. The wealth of the island may in some 
 degree be measured by its public revenue, which 
 amounts to no less than 700,000Z. a year. Mauri- 
 tius produces scarcely anything required for its 
 own consumption. It imports rice from India, 
 grain from Australia, oxen from Madagascar, and 
 sheep from the Cape. 
 
 Our last morning at Port Louis was devoted 
 to the defences and the docks. Progress is being Defences 
 made with the improvement of existing defences o"poj?t'''"' 
 and the construction of new forts. The works are ^ouis 
 well advanced, and the guns are promised shortly 
 from home. Mauritius possesses three graving 
 docks. The Albion Dock could be readily enlarged 
 to receive a ship of war. It would be a wise policy 
 on the part of the Government to assist in the 
 work. 
 
 The passage from Port Louis to Algoa Bay Leave 
 occupied eleven days. To the southward of the ^''"^"'"^ 
 
156 CEUISE TO INDIA AXD AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 An'ive at 
 
 Port 
 
 Elizabeth 
 
 The town 
 of Port 
 Elizabeth 
 
 Trade with 
 Kimberley. 
 Diamonds 
 
 Trades, off the coast of Natal, a short hut severe 
 gale from the south-west was encountered. The 
 ftale was followed by a fresh breeze from the east, 
 which carried the ' Sunbeam ' rapidly to Port 
 Elizabeth, arriving October 1'2. Port Elizabeth 
 from the sea has the aspect of a small Brighton. 
 On landing it presents many indications of pros- 
 perity in its pier, railway station, municipal 
 buildings, streets, shops, and excellently appointed 
 and hospitable club. The residential quarter is 
 happily situated on elevated ground, swept by 
 refreshing breezes from the ocean. A large space 
 is covered with good houses and well-kept lawns. 
 The public gardens are a great feat of horticulture. 
 The arid and sterile soil has been converted by 
 liberal irrigation into a green oasis, containing 
 groves of palms and a varied tropical vegetation. 
 The anchorage is protected from all winds except 
 those from the south-east. 
 
 The prosperity of this active commercial cen- 
 tre is due to the trade carried on with Kimberley, 
 of which it is the port. The value of the diamonds 
 produced at Kimberley was estimated for 1883 at 
 2,359,000Z. ; 1884, 2,562,000Z. ; 1885, 2,228,000Z. ; 
 and 1886, 3,261,000Z. As yet, the price per carat 
 shows no tendency to decline. The work of mining 
 for diamonds gives employment to a large amount 
 of well-paid labour. Some 2,000 white employes 
 are engaged at an average wage of 5Z. 9s. per week. 
 Twelve thousand coloured men are working under 
 their direction, their earnings exceeding IZ. per week. 
 
XII. — PORT DARWIX TO JIAURITIUS AND CAPE 157 
 
 Port Elizabeth is the chief entrepot for ostrich Saie of 
 feathers. The value of this article of export for teathei-a 
 1886 was over half a million sterling. The process 
 of selling the feathers by auction is one of the most 
 singular business transactions at which it has been 
 my lot to assist. One of the buyers in attendance, 
 on the occasion of our visit, represented a London 
 firm, and is said to be making an income of over 
 1,000Z. per year. A spirited effort is being made to 
 establish an entrepot for the Cape wines at Port 
 Elizabeth. Ws visited the extensive cellars under 
 the public market, in which a company has opened 
 a business, which it is intended to conduct in 
 accordance with the most approved methods 
 of treatment in the wine growing districts of 
 Europe. 
 
 A day was spent at Port Elizabeth, and two 
 days of rapid saihng before an easterly wind Leave 
 brought the ' Sunbeam ' into Table Bay on the Elizabeth, 
 morning of October 15, just in time to gain the in Table 
 anchorage before one of the hard gales from the ^"^^ 
 south-east, which are not unfrequently experienced 
 at the Cape, set in. Between Port Darwin and 
 the Cape the distance covered was 1,047 knots 
 under steam, and 5,622 knots under sail. The 
 average speed under steam and sail was exactly 
 eight knots. In the fortnight, October 13 to 27, 
 3,073 knots, giving an average speed of nine knots 
 an hour, were covered under sail alone, with winds 
 of moderate strength. Balloon canvas was freely 
 used. 
 
158 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Table 
 Mountain 
 
 Break- 
 water in 
 Table Bay 
 
 Table Momitain is admirably described by 
 Hiibner as a mighty buttress confronting the rest- 
 less billows of the Southern Ocean. It was covered 
 on the morning of our arrival with the beautiful 
 wreaths of mist which have so often excited the 
 admiration of travellers. A strong south-east 
 gale was blowing on the occasion. When these 
 winds prevail they drive the vapours from the 
 ocean over the flat summit of Table Mountain, 
 whence they descend like a veil floating in the air, 
 and covering with graceful folds the steep precipices 
 of its northern face. 
 
 Table Mountain presents to the dwellers in 
 Cape Town a scene of beauty which changes from 
 hour to hour. Every veering of the wind brings 
 some new yet ever graceful adjustment of a man- 
 tle of vapour, seldom cast aside, which is some- 
 times silver, sometimes purple, and from time to 
 time subdued to a sombre tone by an approaching 
 fall of rain. 
 
 In former years many and disastrous were the 
 losses of life and property in Table Bay. Gales' 
 from the N.W. and the N.N.E. are frequent in the 
 winter, and blow occasionally with resistless fury. 
 In the old sailing days ships caught at anchor in 
 the Bay by one of these terrible storms were 
 doomed to destruction. By the enterprise of the 
 Colonial Government, and the skilful engineering 
 of Sir John Coode, a wide area of sheltered 
 anchorage is now afforded. The breakwater has 
 been extended to a length of 5(30 yards, and a' 
 
XII. — PORT DAEWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 159 
 
 further extension is far advanced, which will give 
 a total length of breakwater of 1,500 yards. 
 
 A wet dock has been formed, capable of A large 
 receiving the largest steamers in the ocean mail 
 service and broad enough for an ironclad. The 
 principal dimensions are — length, 500 feet; breadth, 
 20 feet ; depth, 26 feet. An outer harbour, 44 
 acres in extent, will be gradually formed under the 
 protection of the breakwater. When these works 
 are completed. Cape Town will afford advantages 
 to shipping such as are scarcely exceeded in any 
 port of Great Britain. 
 
 Cape Town contains not a few buildings of Cape Town 
 which the inhabitants of an older capital might 
 justly be proud. The House of Assembly is a noble 
 structure. The admirably kept and beautifully 
 situated Observatory, the banks, the railway sta- 
 tion, and the docks are all excellent. The Botani- 
 cal Gardens, and the shady avenue dividing them 
 from Government House, would add a charm to 
 the finest capital in Europe. 
 
 As an instance of successful private enterprise, 
 I may quote the large wholesale and retail esta- 
 blishment of Messrs. Thorne & Stuttaford, EstaWish- 
 founded by two enterprising men who commenced Messrs.^ 
 their career at the Cape thirty years ago as shop g^Tj^f^^ 
 assistants. It has grown into a great emporium, 
 containing over 35,000?. worth of goods, and with 
 branch establishments at all the principal towns 
 in Cape Colony. 
 
 Considerable as are the attractions of Cape 
 
160 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IX 1886-87 
 
 Town they are far exceeded by the charm of its 
 The sub- beautiful suburbs, extending for some miles along 
 Co'Vtowii *^® ^*^°* ^^ Table Mountain on its eastern side. 
 The country is richly wooded, chiefly with our own 
 English trees, and abounds with pleasant buildings, 
 surromided by gardens bright with the flowers of 
 the summer of our Northern latitudes. The scene 
 recalls the most favoured part of Surrey. The 
 cantonments of the troops at Wynberg, on a well- 
 wooded plateau, have all the lovely features of an 
 English park. 
 Visit to We made an excursion with Sir Gordon Sprigg 
 
 Constantia ^^^^ j^-^ family to Constautia, where the Govern- 
 ment have purchased an old Dutch manor house, 
 and are cultivating the vine under the superinten- 
 dence of Baron Von Babo, with the view of pro- 
 ducing wines on the most approved European 
 Sir Gordon principles. Our host has made one of those inter- 
 ^"^^ esting and honourable careers for which colonial 
 life offers so many opportunities to those who 
 know how to use them. He began life in the 
 gallery of the House of Commons, as a reporter of 
 debates, in the days of Cobden. As Premier of a 
 Colonial Parliament, he has had an opportunity 
 of applying the maxims of political wisdom 
 gathered from a close observation of our own 
 Parliamentary proceedings. 
 Visit to Another excursion was made to Stellenbosch, 
 
 boscir ^ characteristic example of the old Dutch towns 
 of the Cape Colony. We were under the guidance 
 of Mr. Hofmeyer, and Mr. Tudhope, the Colonial 
 
XII.— POET DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 161 
 
 Secretary. The journey from Cape Town occupied 
 an hour by railway. Stellenbosch is in many ways 
 a perfect reproduction of a country town in Hol- 
 land. If we miss the canals, we have the domestic 
 architecture and the fine avenues running through 
 the principal streets. These features give to this 
 distant settlement in South Africa, not one of 
 whose inhabitants probably has ever visited 
 Holland, a marked Dutch aspect. 
 
 On our arrival at Stellenbosch we were driven, 
 under the guidance of the Mayor, to the University, The 
 where a mixed staff of Professors, English and 
 Dutch^ are doing excellent work in education. We 
 were received by a guard of honour, furnished by 
 the students' Volunteer Corps. Having inspected 
 the University buildings, we drove out to an old 
 Dutch farm, under a burning sun, and through a 
 country in which the foliage of the temperate and 
 the tropical zones was closely intermingled. 
 
 The farm we visited comprises an extensive a Dutch 
 range of buildings, with an excellent dwelling- '^"" 
 house, roomy stables, and large stores filled with 
 butts of wine, which are characteristic of the dis- 
 trict. The buildings form a large quadrangle, sur- 
 rounding a plot of grass shaded by noble trees. 
 The situation of the farm is very striking. It 
 stands in a deep valley, green, fertile, and well- 
 watered, but completely hemmed in by mountains 
 of volcanic formation some 4,000 feet in height, 
 beautiful in form, but entirely devoid of vegetation. 
 The proprietor received us most kindly. His 
 VOL. II. M 
 
162 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA .IN* 1886-87- 
 
 command of English was quite remarkable. "We 
 afterwards learned that he holds the post of inter- 
 preter to the Supreme Court, and that farming 
 is only a recreation. Happy are all cultivators of 
 the soil, at the Cape not less than at home, Who 
 can give themselves to the pleasant occupation of 
 agriculture without too grave solicitude as to 
 financial results. Want of rain and the phylloxera 
 are constant anxieties at the Cape. We observed 
 that the field labourers were invariably men of 
 colour. Their earnings do not exceed one shilling 
 per day. 
 Cape Cape politics have been a fertile source of 
 
 ^° ' "^^ trouble and anxiety to the British Government at 
 home. With the necessarily imperfect knowledge 
 of local circumstances, it is impossible, from 
 London, to deal in a satisfactory manner with the 
 relations between the Government of a distant 
 colony, and neighbours so little known as the 
 Boers, and savages so rude as the Kaffirs and 
 Zulus. Our errors of the past will not be re- 
 peated, if only we resolve firmly not to fetter the 
 discretion of the local Governments, which, in 
 pursuance of a wise policy, we have called into 
 existence. 
 President The visit of President Kruger, of the Transvaal, 
 
 to President Brand, of the Free. State, was a 
 prominent topic at the time of our visit. It had 
 led to the delivery of a speech by Mr. Kruger, in 
 which he had declared the determination of the 
 Boers to preserve their complete independence. In 
 
XII. — POET DAEWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 163 
 
 the Cape Colony, people are more interested in the 
 establishment of railway- communication with the 
 new goldfields within the borders of the Transvaal 
 than in the question of political union. As yet a 
 certain reluctance is manifested by the Boers 
 to establish railway communication with the 
 Cape. An English company has made a railway Extension 
 from Delagoa Bay to the Transvaal frontier, and ° ™ ""^^ " 
 the line will shortly be extended to Pretoria. In 
 the meanwhile the people of the Cape Colony are 
 desirous of extending their system of railways, 
 already 882 miles in length, into the interior. 
 Considerable discoveries of gold have recently 
 been made within the limits of the Transvaal, but 
 close to the border, and all the workers at the 
 mines are Englishmen from the Cape Colony. 
 Permission to estabhsh railway communication 
 with this newly discovered gold-mining district 
 will be ultimately granted. 
 
 Among the Boers of the Transvaal a large 
 number are friendly to the English. Once con- 
 nected with the Cape by railway, and by a Customs 
 union, which has been much under discussion, the Customs 
 Cape Colony and the Transvaal will be for all uveenCape 
 practical purposes of trade united. A divided ad- ^rinsvaa'^ 
 ministration of government in a country of such 
 wide extent is an unmixed advantage. 
 
 It was particularly gratifying to hear from Mr. 
 Hofmeyer, the head of the Dutch party in the 
 Cape Parliament, and a most able represeritative 
 of the Colony in the late Colonial Conference, how 
 
 II 2 
 
164 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Position of entirely satisfied liis people are to live under 
 tt't£"cape British rule as now conducted. The Dutch 
 colonists at the Cape have no personal relations 
 v^ith Holland. "While they look back upon their 
 former connection as an interesting historical as- 
 sociation, the protection which England affords 
 against the occupation of the Cape by some other 
 foreign power is a practical boon, and greatly 
 valued. The Cape Colony has so extended its 
 territories that the native races have been brought 
 into a permanent condition of peace. In the last 
 ten years jealousies of race have subsided, and the 
 native power has disappeared. The railways have 
 become a factor of union. They will lead to closer 
 relations between the Free State, the Transvaal, 
 and the seaboard colonies. Unity in feeling and 
 action, on the part of the two English speaking 
 and Dutch speaking races, is the true key-note of 
 future policy. 
 
 Judging from such indications as came under 
 The native our personal notice, the native races, so far from 
 ^'^""^ being a source of weakness, are a great strength 
 
 to the colony. The Indians in North America, 
 the Maoris in New Zealand, the aborigines of 
 Australia, have disappeared or dwindled away 
 before the white man. The Zulus and Kaffirs 
 have proved themselves capable of adopting and 
 promoting civilisation. They show in numerous 
 instances a high appreciation of the blessings of 
 education. They are ready to labour on the 
 farms, on the railways, and in the mines. They 
 
XII. — POET DARWIN TO MAURITIUS AND CAPE 165 
 
 are content to live under the rule of a superior 
 race. 
 
 Material prosperity has been greatly advanced 
 by the discoveries of gold, the opening up of 
 goldfields, and the large amount of wealth 
 which has been derived from the exportation of 
 diamonds. 
 
 XIII. — ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, FAYAL, 
 AND PORTSMOUTH 
 
 The ' Sunbeam ' left Cape Town on October 24. Leave Cape 
 St. Helena was reached on November 3. Like all an-ive at 
 the islands of the Atlantic it is of volcanic forma- ^*' H^'™* 
 tion. It presents to the ocean on every side a 
 coast line of precipices, sharp peaks, and gloomy 
 chasms. The contorted shapes of rock and moun- 
 tain give a powerful impression of the tremendous 
 forces of nature in a period of volcanic activity. 
 The landing place for St. Helena is under the lee st. Helena 
 of the island, at Jamestown, a small town depend- 
 ing entirely on shipping. 
 
 Above Jamestown for some 2,000 feet the Jamestown 
 country is inexpressibly sterile. At a higher level 
 the soil is watered by the frequent showers brought 
 up from the ocean by the south-east Trades, and 
 covered with a rich carpet of grass. In every Scenery of 
 sheltered dell the growth of timber is abundant 
 and varied, combining the trees of the tropics with 
 those of oUr-Enghsli latitudes, The- watercourses 
 
166 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Aeceiision 
 
 An'ive at 
 
 Sierra 
 
 Leone 
 
 Sierra 
 Leone 
 
 Freetown 
 
 are innumerable. The bed of every stream is 
 filled, and every bank is covered vs^ith lovely masses 
 of water-lilies. The scenery of the island is most 
 beautiful. The Acting Governor occupies a fine 
 country house surrounded by a noble park. It is 
 sad to visit Longwood, and reflect on the intoler- 
 able weariness of such a place of confinement to 
 the victor in many battles, and the former arbiter 
 of the destinies of Central Europe. 
 
 The ' Sunbeam ' touched at Ascension on the 
 7th and reached Sierra Leone at 9 p.m. on 
 November 14. In this section of the voyage the 
 distance under canvas was 3,327 knots, the average 
 speed 7'7 knots, and the distance under steam 289 
 knots, with an average speed of 7 knots. The 
 south-east Trades were light, and balloon canvas 
 again proved extremely serviceable. 
 
 The British settlements on the West Coast of 
 Africa date from 1672, when the British African 
 Company was first formed. Sierra Leone was 
 ceded to Great Britain in 1787 by the native 
 chiefs, and was made a residence for freed slaves 
 from the United States and the West Indies. It 
 lies in the seventh and eighth degrees north lati- 
 tude. The British protectorate is estimated to 
 extend over 3,000 square miles. Freetown, the 
 capital, is built on a peninsula about eighteen 
 miles long. The town is backed by mountains of 
 considerable elevation, richly wooded, and beauti- 
 ful in outline. The streets are laid out with regu- 
 larity on ground sloping rapidly to the river. The 
 
XIII.— ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 167 
 
 houses are of wood, and the roadways are unpaved. 
 The population is 37,000. 
 
 At Sierra Leone the Church of England is The 
 strongly supported by the Church Missionary 
 Society. It has a large body of adherents, and is 
 the see of a Bishop. It has a college, affiliated 
 to the Durham University, which has turned out 
 coloured students of distinguished ability. My 
 friend Mr. Blyden, au.thor of ' Christianity, Islam, 
 and the Negro Race,' is a distinguished leader of 
 the higher culture among the negro race. 
 
 The trade of Sierra Leone, in conm^ion with 
 that of th^Gold Coast generally, consists mainly 
 in the exportation of the palm kernel, from which Exports 
 an oil is extracted largely used in the manufacture ports 
 of soap and candles. Marseilles and Hamburg 
 are the chief centres of this business. The im- 
 ports are mainly Manchester goods and spirits. 
 The trade has fallen off in recent years owing to 
 the constant warfare among the tribes bordering 
 on the colony. 
 
 The greatest excitement prevailed in Sierra 
 Leone at the time of our visit. An expedition was Expedition 
 being sent to punish the Yonnies, a neighbouring YonuLs '" 
 tribe, for frequent deeds of violence to British 
 subjects. It achieved a rapid success. The forces 
 engaged consisted of the men of the West India 
 Regiment and some seamen from the ships. Sir 
 Francis de Winton was in command, supported 
 by Major Piggott and Captain Brown. Sierra 
 Leone is the head-quarters of the West India; 
 
168 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTllALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Regiment stationed on the West Coast of Africa. 
 Their number is four hundred. The barracks are 
 a largo and airy range of buildings, in a command- 
 ing situation on the heights above the town. 
 Official resi- We breakfasted with the Acting Governor, 
 governor An old fort lias been adapted as the ofi&cial resi- 
 dence. Its thick walls, originally built as a defence 
 against the bullets of an enemy, give some protec- 
 tion from the heat of the African sun. The ram- 
 parts afford a shady walk, commanding lovely 
 views of the town and harbour beneath, and the 
 noble amphitheatre of mountains above. Sierra 
 Leone would be delightful but for its climate and 
 the fevers which it brings. 
 Leave The ' Sunbeam ' left Sierra Leone at sunset on 
 
 i,em,e November 15 under steam. The north-east 
 Call at Trades were picked up in latitude 11° N. A call 
 
 Porto I. p 1 -I -n -T-i 
 
 Piaya of a few hours was made at Porto- Praya on 
 November 19. The French frigate of instruction 
 for cadets, the ' Iphigenie,' a tautly rigged ship of 
 4,000 tons displacement, had anchored on the 
 previous day. Porto Praya wears the air of decay 
 so commonly observable in foreign settlements 
 under the Portuguese flag. The country is fertile, 
 but progress is checked by the great weight of 
 taxation, the public income being misapplied in 
 keeping the unemployed in unprofitable idle- 
 ness, We noticed a considerable number of 
 able-bodied men hoeing weeds in the public 
 square. 
 
 We found three kind Englishmen leading a 
 
XUI. — ST. HELENA, SIEEEA LEQNE, ETC, 169 
 
 life of exile in charge of the station of the West 
 African Telegraph Company. St. Vincent is the st. Vincent 
 only island of the Cape de Verdes which has any 
 trade ; as a coaling station it is much used by 
 steamers on the South American route. 
 
 On the day after leaving Porto Praya the Leave 
 ' Sunbeam ' lay becalmed under the lee of St. Prayn 
 Antonio. The anchorage used in 1876 was in 
 view, as was also the house and plantation of 
 which a drawing is given in Lady Brassey's 
 ' Voyage in the " Sunbeam." ' There were many 
 sad reminiscences as the former track of the ' Sun- 
 beam ' was crossed. On November 29, without 
 warning from the barometer, a strong gale com- EnLounter 
 menced from the east, and lasted without inter- ^^°^' "'^" 
 mission for four days. Under low canvas and 
 close hauled, the ' Sunbeam ' gallantly struggled 
 forward, making 130 knots on November 29, and 
 on the three following days 112, 57, and 92 knots 
 respectively. While hove to in this gale the 
 canvas was severely punished. All the lower sails 
 were more or less damaged, and sail was reduced 
 to storm trysails. Two large barques were passed 
 lying-to under lower main topsails and mizen 
 storm staysails. At dawn on December 2, Fayal sight 
 was sighted. 
 
 The gale was blowing dead on shore at Horta, 
 and it was preferable to run for shelter under the 
 lee of the island. As we closed the land, grand 
 effects were produced by the clouds and mists 
 driving before the gale, down the green slopes of 
 
170 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTEALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Heavy sea. 
 Unable to 
 anchor at 
 Horta 
 
 Snowy 
 Pico 
 
 Anchor at 
 Faval 
 
 the mountains, to the dark cliffs of lava and iDasalt 
 which form the northern face of the island. 
 Here and there, in the deep clefts and fissures, falls 
 were seen, abounding in water from the heavyrains. 
 Gleams of sunshine occasionally breaking through 
 the mist brought back recollections of similar beauti- 
 ful effects on the west coast of Scotland. Late in 
 the afternoon of December 2 the ' Sunbeam ' gained 
 the northern entrance to the channel which 
 divides Fayal from Pico. An attempt was made 
 to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea 
 was running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy 
 night, and we determined to wait outside until 
 daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for 
 shelter from the wind and sea. 
 
 At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining 
 on the snow-clad peak of Pico, towering in soli- 
 tary grandeur to a height of 7,800 feet. The 
 northern face of the mountain, silvered by the 
 moon, was robed in a mantle of clouds, tinted viath 
 the rosy hues of the morning. 
 
 An hour's steaming carried us into the anchor- 
 age at Fayal, where we remained through the day 
 of December 3. The passage from Sierra Leone 
 to Fayal had been accomplished with adverse 
 winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 
 16^ days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at 
 an average speed of 6-3 knots, and 460 miles under 
 steam at an average speed of 6 knots. 
 
 We found several sailing vessels at anchor in 
 tlie roadstead of Horta, One British vessel had 
 
XIII. — ST. HELENA, SIERRA LEONE, ETC. 171 
 
 come in for provisions, another to repair a damaged Craft in 
 rudder. -A barque hailing from Boston" was one stead 
 of a hne which carries on a regular service under 
 canvas between the Azores and America. They 
 depend chiefly on passengers, who make the 
 cruise for sake of health. The Norwegian flag 
 was represented by one most crazy wooden ship, 
 70 years old, and by another ship of nearly equal 
 antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthi- 
 ness. The captains of both the Norwegians were 
 hoping that the surveyors might condemn them as 
 unfit for further service. 
 
 Fayal offers an especially favourable opportu- Payai 
 
 ■ I J. ,1 1 • 1 XI !,• • utilised for 
 
 nity for the obsequies of an unseaworthy ship m- destruction 
 sured beyond her value. The local shipwrights "^rth^y" 
 have a high reputation for skill in effecting repairs, vessels 
 but their services are more largely in request for 
 the work of destruction. The little harbour of 
 Porto Pirn, a cove formed by the sea in the crater 
 of an extinct volcano, contained many skeletons 
 of ships which have ended their days in these 
 secluded waters. The danger, to life from the 
 attempt to navigate in ships no longer fit to con- 
 tend with storm and tempest, can only be removed 
 by compelling the owners of ships to bear some 
 share of the pecuniary risk. ' 
 
 Fayal, which depends mainly on shipping, has 
 seen more prosperous days. The opening of the 
 Suez Canal and the introduction of powerful iron Effect of 
 and steel built ocean liners, which suffer com- upon Fayal 
 paratively little from the effects of heavy weather, 
 
whalers 
 
 172 CEUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 have combined to produce a marked diminution in 
 
 the number of vessels calling at the port. The 
 
 whalers under the United States flag still make 
 
 Head- it their head-quarters in the summer season. 
 
 quarters of -i-\ • ii ^ j_ • i i j. 
 
 American -Uuring the present year nine have been seen at 
 the anchorage at the same time. Exciting chases 
 in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take 
 place in the channel between Fayal and Pico. 
 Numerous whale boats are kept on the island, and 
 are instantly launched when a whale is seen near 
 the shore. A breakwater is now in progress at 
 Horta, but the work is proceeding with the 
 customary festina lentc method of the Portu- 
 guese. 
 
 statistics The British Consul at Fayal supplied the 
 
 '^^* statistics quoted in the following memoratidum. 
 
 Population of Fayal in 1886, 24,,501. 
 
 Breakwater : 
 
 Commenced, March 20, 1876. 
 
 Amount expended to June 30, 1887, 192,2867. 
 
 Number of vessels entered, with aggregate tonnage 
 
 Tonuago 
 
 1883. Sailing vessels . . 66 20,890 
 
 „ Steam „ , . .78 95,982 
 
 1886. Sailing 63 26,341 
 
 Steam „ . . .60 82,435 
 
 The trade is insignificant. 
 Leave Having taken in water and provisions, the 
 
 Fajrai voyage was resumed on the evening of December 3, 
 with a favourable wind from the S.S.E. At mid- 
 
XUL— ST, HELENA, SIJIREA LEO.NE, ETC. 173 
 
 night the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east, 
 and on the following morning the ' Sunbeam ' 
 bore up, before a severe gale, for shelter under the 
 lee of Terceira. Late in the day the sun burst Bear up 
 through the veil of lowering clouds, and lighted cek-a*^' 
 up the landscape with a flood of golden light. 
 Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest 
 ridges attain an elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests 
 of the hills are clothed with forests of pine and 
 rich pastures. 
 
 At a lower level the indications of laborious Terceira 
 cultivation are seen in range upon range of ter- 
 raced gardens and vineyards. The island is 
 densely inhabited, the nuinerous white houses 
 giving an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the 
 scene, which recalls the Bay of Naples and the 
 Straits of Messina. 
 
 On December 5 the gale subsided to a calm, Gale abates 
 and the voyage homewards was commenced under Proceed 
 steam. In a few hours the engines broke down, 
 and sail was made to a light breeze from the 
 north-east. On the succeeding days favourable 
 winds were experienced from the westward. On 
 the 11th the wind shifted to the south-east, 
 accompanied by drizzling rain and fog, which 
 rendered observations, impossible. The Scilly 
 Island lights were sighted, in a fortunate lifting of sight Sciiiy 
 the haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run ^'^*"^' 
 from the Scilly Islands to Spithead was made at ^™™ ^^ 
 the rate of 11^ knots an hour, before a south- 
 westerly gale. 
 
174 CRUISE TO INDIA AND AUSTRALIA IN 1886-87 
 
 Enter 
 Ports- 
 mouth 
 Harbour 
 
 Defects of 
 ' Sun- 
 beam's ' 
 boiler 
 
 Behaviour 
 of the crew 
 during the 
 voyage 
 
 Distance 
 run 
 
 The total distance from Fayal, including the 
 call at Terceira, was 1,440 miles, of which sixty 
 only were under steam. The average speed was 
 7 loiots. The ' Sunbeam ' entered Portsmouth 
 Harbour at noon on December 14. 
 
 When the ' Sunbeam ' reached the Cape, it was 
 found that the tubes of the boiler had been seriously 
 injured by the great varieties of fuel burned during 
 the voyage. The pressure of steam was consider- 
 ably reduced, with a corresponding loss, of speed. 
 On leaving Terceira the boiler broke down com- 
 pletely, and for the remainder of the voyage the 
 winds were the only resource. 
 
 The crew, consisting of twenty-fom' seamen, 
 have behaved in a highly creditable manner. The 
 offences when in port have been few, and at sea 
 every duty has been carried out in a manner 
 worthy of British seamen. Three men joined at 
 King George's Sound. They had been sentenced 
 to a short term of imprisonment for insubordina- 
 tion on board a yacht returning from a cruise 
 in Australian waters. To oblige the Government 
 Eesident, I consented to receive these men on 
 board on trial. Better men it would not have 
 been possible to obtain had they been recruited 
 through the usual agencies. 
 
 The total distance covered during the voyage 
 was 36,709 knots, 25,808 under sail and 10,901 
 under steam. The runs under sail included 39 
 days over 200 knots, fifteen days over 240, seven 
 
XIII. — ST. HELENA, SIEREA LEONE, ETC. 175 
 
 days over 260, and three days over 270. The best 
 day was 282 knots. 
 
 The total consumption of coal was 330 tons. Goal 
 
 . consumed 
 
 Though the quality taken on board was ni many 
 instances inferior, an average distance of 33 
 knots was steamed for every ton of coal con- 
 sumed. 
 
176 
 
 VIII 
 
 .4 TBIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Repbinted by Permission prom the 'Fortnightly Review,' 
 May 1893 
 
 The Wist 
 Indies for a 
 yacliting 
 cruise 
 
 Leave 
 Rpezzia in 
 the ' Sun- 
 beam ' for 
 Barbados 
 
 The voyage I am about to describe was made in 
 seas which offer an ideal cruising ground to a 
 yachtsman. Every year we see fleets more 
 numerous and of increasing tonnage assembled 
 under the protecting breakwater of the Isle of 
 Wight. The modern pleasure fleet is mostly pro- 
 pelled by steam. By lavish expenditure, powers 
 of locomotion have been created on a vast scale ; 
 and broader waters than those of the Solent are 
 needed to turn the new capabilities of travel to 
 the best advantage. A cruise to the West Indies 
 cannot fail to impress on the memory in unfading 
 colours the loveliest pictures of natural beauty 
 ■which it is possible to conceive. 
 
 On the sea experiences of our trip I must be 
 brief. The 'Sunbeam' sailed from Spezzia at 10 p.m. 
 on January 2. Avoiding details, I may simply 
 mention that we touched at Villef ran die, Barcelona, 
 Valencia, Gibraltar, Tangiers, Teneriff'e, and St. 
 Vincent in the Cape do Vcrdes. In heavy weatlicr 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 177 
 
 in the Gulf of Lyons we lost a boat, and in a hard 
 south-west gale some sixty miles south of Cape 
 Spartel our jibboom and fore-topmast were carried 
 away. Having weathered all the storms which 
 had impeded progress, and profited with alacrity 
 by every favouring breeze, we made the revolving 
 light on Eagged Point, the eastern extremity of 
 Barbados, at 7.30 p.m. on the 12th February. 
 
 The following morning we anchored in Carlisle Anchor in 
 Bay. The view from the sea is not unpleasing. Bay, 
 A dense mass of rich green tropical vegetation " "' °^ 
 extends from Needham Point to the entrance of 
 the Car^nage, or harbour. Bridgetown, the capital Biidge- 
 of the island, is built on the low ground near the 
 shore. Behind the town the land rises in a gradual 
 slope. The square patches of cultivation on the 
 sugar estates in the distance produce the effect of 
 a country divided by hedges. In the subdued 
 light and cool of the evening, the scene suggests 
 an English landscape rather than an island in the 
 tropics. We landed at noon, an hour at which 
 only the latest arrivals from temperate latitudes 
 would venture to confront the fierce heat of a 
 tropical sun. In the office of the West India and 
 Panama Telegraph Company, where we were 
 hospitably received, we found the latest newspapers 
 from England and the United States. A refresh- 
 ing breeze was blowing through the open Venetian 
 shutters and bulkheads. In three carriages, the 
 drivers of which were in livery and wore each a 
 tall black felt hat, we proceeded through the busy 
 VOL. II, N 
 
178 A TKIP TO THE WEST INDIES IX 1892 
 
 streets to the southern end of Bridgetown. The 
 Public House of Assembly, and the offices of the adminis- 
 trative departments, form a pleasing group, in the 
 Gothic style, having in the centre a grove of shady 
 trees. Close by is the bronze statue erected to 
 the memory of Lord Nelson in 1812. 
 
 The charm of Bridgetown, to new-comers from 
 The England, consists in the gardens, full of gay 
 
 colom'ing. Hibiscus, crotons in many varieties, 
 and oleanders in full bloom, are the flowers seen 
 in the greatest abundance. We were all buyers 
 of garments suitable for hot climates. The retail 
 business in manufactured goods is concentrated in 
 a few establishments mounted on a vast scale. 
 Whitfield's ^t Whitfield's Stores, in addition to the sale of 
 
 stores ^ ' _ 
 
 clothing, an active trade is done in frozen meat 
 and game. A new and most efficient machine 
 delivers into the ice-room twenty tons of block-ice 
 daily. With a cost of production estimated at Sx. 
 per ton, and a selling price at 21. 10s., a handsome 
 profit is realised, and dividends of 10 per cent, are 
 anticipated. Such a return should be yielded 
 ungrudgingly by consumers. No form of enterprise 
 and no application of science to practical purposes 
 could be more truly beneficent than the manufac- 
 ture of ice for the relief of the sufferings endured 
 by white men in a tropical climate. 
 The natives The happy f accs of our coloured fellow-subjects 
 are a most pleasant sight in Barbados. The 
 Barbadian negro is no idler. The population of 
 16,000 whites and 166,000 coloured people is 
 
A TRIP TO TJIE WEST IN'DIES IX 1892 179 
 
 service 
 
 crowded in the proportion of 1,100 to the square 
 mile. The main occupation being agriculture, it 
 is evident that the whole surface of the island must 
 be industriously and skilfully cultivated to enable 
 so large a number to obtain a subsistence. 
 
 We dined with the Governor, Sir James Hay, 
 and gladly accepted his kind invitation to take up 
 our quarters in G-overnment House. 
 
 February 14. — The cathedral, a capacious The 
 and well-designed building in the Gothic style, 
 contains many tombstones bearing dates of the 
 seventeenth century. On the quay of the Carenage 
 we found a group engaged in an open-air service. An open-air 
 Moody and Sankey hymns were sung with much 
 feeling by the negresses gathered round the 
 preacher. The sermon was not long. In the 
 opening, the position of those who neglect religion 
 was compared to that of a rich man's heir failing 
 to claim his inheritance. After enlarging on the 
 same theme, the preacher suddenly rivetted the 
 attention of his audience by exclaiming several 
 times, ' God made us white ! ' He proceeded to 
 explain this as a reference to the condition of his 
 soul now that he had become a believing Christian. 
 ' Far better to have a white soul and a black face 
 than a white face and a black soul ! ' was the 
 remark addressed with emphasis to three seamen 
 from a colonial schooner who were carelessly 
 looking on. Later in the evening we stood for 
 some time at the door of the meeting-house of a 
 newly-formed sect known as the ' Faith-healers.' 
 
180 A TBI? TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Sect of 
 ' Faith- 
 healers ' 
 
 The 
 
 Savannah, 
 Military ex 
 penditure 
 in Bar- 
 bados 
 
 A railway 
 journey in 
 the island 
 
 Before an audience of some two hundred persons 
 a negress was holding forth with remarkable 
 fluency and impressiveness of manner on the 
 familiar truths of Christianity. While speaking, 
 the preacher walked up and down the side of the 
 room, often stopping and assuming a pose which 
 contributed much to the oratorical effect. It is 
 certain that religion has a real hold upon the 
 people of Barbados. The Government expenditure 
 on stipends to ministers of religion is 14,000?. a 
 year ; and there is much voluntary effort. 
 
 Monday, Fehruarij 1.5. — At 5.30 p.m. went 
 to the Savannah. Polo. Band of Duke of Wel- 
 lington's Begiment. It is always cheering to see 
 the pluck with which the British officer, whose 
 destiny may have consigned him to the grilling 
 heat of India and other stations in the tropics, 
 preserves his energy and activity by playing the 
 same games which he enjoyed in his public school 
 days in England. It is a circumstance inviting 
 reflection that the expenditure incurred by the 
 Imperial Government for military purposes in 
 Barbados is no less than 550,000Z. a year. 
 
 Tuesday, February 16. — Started at 7 A.M. in 
 a special train. The only railway of Barbados 
 is a narrow-gauge surface-line, following every 
 indentation of the ground, with sharp curves 
 and steep inclines. The journey afforded an ex- 
 cellent opportunity for seeing the interior of the 
 island. In extent it compares closely with the 
 Isle of Wight. In shape it resembles a pear. 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST IiNDIES IN 1892 181 
 
 The stalk, or south point, is low and narrow, 
 while the northern pari; is wider and hilly. The 
 greatest elevation is 1,104 feet. Every spot of 
 fertile ground is carefully cultivated. Sugar is, ^"S'"' . 
 
 . ° ■' o ' plantations 
 
 practically, the sole product. Although attempts 
 have been made to amalgamate a few properties, 
 the sugar estates are usually of moderate extent, 
 averaging some 300 acres. Owing to the com- 
 paratively small size of the estates, the island is 
 thickly studded with buildings, which present a 
 cm'ious combination of the factory, the farmstead, 
 and the residence of a country gentleman. The 
 planters live in large houses surrounded by 
 gardens and dense groups of trees. Close at 
 hand will be seen tall chimneys, boiler-houses, 
 and other buildings, necessary for treating the 
 sugar after the cane has been cut. There is a 
 waste of power in the unnecessary multiplication 
 of mills and machinery. Large amounts of Eiceasive 
 capital are lying idle in mills not worked to the J™}" 
 full extent of their capacity. Better qualities 
 of sugar could be produced, and at a lower cost, 
 by concentrating the manufacture in a few 
 central usines, mounted on a large scale and 
 equipped with the most modern machinery. 
 
 Tn common with the other islands of the 
 West Indies, Barbados suffered very seriously 
 from the depression of a few years ago, when 
 the price of sugar fell to below 101. per ton. The 
 markets are now greatly improved, while the 
 pressure of bad times hag produced some abiding 
 
182 A TRIP TO THE "WEST INDIES IN. 1892 
 
 Improved gootl results. It has compelled the strictest 
 suga° ^ ° attention to economy in every department. The 
 cultivation cultivation is more carefully carried out than 
 before, and valuable improvements have been 
 introduced in the methods of extracting the juice 
 from the cane. It is said that the cost of 
 producing sugar has now fallen to something 
 under 101. per ton. The depreciation in prices 
 caused by a general over-supply had led to a 
 marked reduction in the quantity produced. 
 Under the present more favourable conditions 
 the output of sugar has reviA^ed, and now exceeds 
 in volume that of any former period. By a 
 Tiie treaty recently negotiated, the United States 
 
 United admits tlie Muscavado sugar of Barbados duty 
 free, the island agreeing to receive the bread- 
 stuffs it requires from the United States also free 
 of duty. The treaty has produced a marked 
 effect on the course of trade. While the exports 
 to the United Kingdom had fallen from 190,000?. 
 in 1886 to 130,000/. in 1890, the exports to 
 Canada and the United States had doubled, and at 
 the date of the latest returns exceeded 1,000,000?. 
 in value. Barbados depends almost entirely on 
 imported food, the principal articles being ob- 
 tained from the United States. Great Britain 
 has the monopoly of the trade in manufactured 
 good. 
 
 Dm-ing om* short stay we made an interesting 
 excursion to Codrington College, an institution 
 founded in the reign of William III. by the 
 
 states 
 
A TElP TO THE WEST INDIES IX 1892 183 
 
 governor whose name it bears. The picturesque Codrington 
 stone buildings stand in a lovely position facing ° ^^^ 
 the sea, and at the foot of an elevated range of 
 hills. The college is affiliated to Durham, and 
 the course of instruction includes theology and 
 the classics. The number of students is from 
 twenty to thirty. The majority take orders ; a 
 limited number follow the medical profession. 
 From Codrington College it is a stiff climb to 
 St. John's Church, built on the edge of a cliff, with st joims 
 a coinmanding view of the sea. The church 
 would be worthy of a large parish in England. 
 We were told that the congregation on Sun- 
 days often approaches a thousand persons. The 
 Church of England has a strong hold on the negro 
 population of Barbados. We recognised on the 
 tombstones names still familiar in the island, 
 where many families have been settled for several 
 generations. It was here and at St. Christopher's 
 that England founded her first settlements in the T'le firbt 
 West Indies. It was here that the first sugar- Indian 
 cane was planted upon the soil of the British ^'^ "^'^^ ^ 
 dominions. It was here that many devoted ad- 
 herents of the Eoyal cause found a refuge after 
 the Civil Wars. 
 
 Sailing from Barbados at 10 p.m. on February Leave 
 16th, at daybreak on the 18th the high coast- 
 range on the north shore of Trinidad was in 
 sight. As we gradually closed with the land ^'?^°'^, 
 the views of the coast became more and more fromtUu 
 beautiful. The highest summits attain an eleva- 
 
184 A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 tion of 3,000 feet. The lofty peaks and ridges of 
 the sky-hne rise and sink in graceful curves and 
 long, sweeping slopes. Erom the topmost points 
 to the sea the descent is almost precipitous. 
 Everywhere the mountains are covered with a 
 rich green virgin tropical forest, swept by the 
 refreshing breezes of the trade-wind, which at 
 this season of the year never ceases to blow. 
 At 2 P.M. we were off the entrances to the Gulf of 
 Paria, named the Dragon's Mouth by Columbus 
 in commemoration of the difficulties he encoun- 
 tered from strong tides and currents and baffling 
 winds. We were fortunate in entering the Gulf 
 
 Anchor at A^itli a Commanding breeze from the north-east, 
 v^^hich carried us over a three-knot tide through 
 the Boca de Huevos into the smooth waters of 
 the Gulf of Paria. 
 
 Trinidad is fortunate in not depending solely 
 
 Products of on sugar. Cocoa is grown inost successfully, and 
 
 the ish\nd „ i_- ^ n j i • i i n 
 
 now forms an article oi export which already 
 rivals, and promises soon greatly to exceed in 
 value, the older staple of West Indian trade. In 
 addition to sugar and cocoa, other products — such 
 as coffee, tobacco, and fruit— in which an active 
 trade with the United States is being developed, 
 give excellent promise for the future. The island 
 possesses a unique source of wealth in the famous 
 Pitch Lake. The value of the exports and im- 
 ports may be taken at 5,OOO,OO0Z., the two sides 
 of the ledger approximately balancing each other. 
 The total population is 196,000, about one-third 
 
A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 185 
 
 of the inhabitants being cooHes. At the present Population 
 time East Indian emigrants are being introduced habitants 
 in large numbers, many of whom prosper and 
 become permanent settlers. These imported 
 labourers are not to be compared in physical 
 power with the negroes ; but the. latter are not 
 disposed to regular industry, and are under no 
 pressure to work from necessity. In the course 
 of its chequered history Trinidad has passed in chequered 
 succession under the rule of Spain, France, and ulei'silnd 
 England. All the races who have had dominion 
 over the island are represented in its hetero- 
 geneous population. The lower class of shop- 
 keepers are Chinamen. English is everywhere 
 spoken, and the French and Spanish languages 
 are heard on all sides. 
 
 Trinidad has a public revenue of nearly half a PiogreEs of 
 million. With this handsome sum, under able 
 administration, much has been done to introduce 
 civilisation and to develop resources. Under pre- 
 sent conditions the West Indian Islands find 
 their best market for sugar in the United States, 
 and for cocoa in London. It would have been a 
 help if the' mother country could have given to 
 the products of Trinidad a preferential position 
 in her markets. This idea can now, however, 
 be no longer entertained. We have called into 
 existence too many industries depending for their 
 success on the cheapness of raw materials. 
 
 An excursion to the Maracas Waterfall was a 
 charming incident in our stay at Trinidad. After 
 
3Lg6 :a -TRif $o;-TttE.. West- Indies in 1892 
 
 to™he^'°" <ii'iving for some miles over a flat comrtry, through 
 Manvcas numerous large sugar plantations, we commenced 
 
 Waterfall f 1 ^ • . i • r, i 
 
 a rapid ascent, by a running stream which rushes 
 down a thickly-wooded valley from its source in 
 the central mountain range. Nothing can exceed 
 the loveliness of the scenery. The vegetation 
 presents all the richest beauties of the tropics. 
 TheSamaii The grandest tree is the Saman, whose huge 
 trunk, strengthened by powerful buttresses, sup- 
 ports branches of almost illimitable spread. The 
 tree is covered with orchids and parasites. In 
 the rainy season it is a mass of lovely flowers. 
 Palms and ferns in every variety, the cannon-ball 
 tree, the bread fruit, and the nutmeg grow luxu- 
 riantly. Here and there the space has been 
 cleared for cocoa-nut trees — the pods at this 
 season wearing their most brilliant colours of 
 yellow, pink, and orange. The fall of Maracas in 
 dry weather is diminished to a thin veil of water. 
 It descends from a precipice 300 feet in height, 
 recalling the graceful lines of Tennyson :— 
 
 Slow-dropping veils of thinnest lawn did go, 
 And some, like wavering shadows, rose and fell, 
 Rolling a slumbrous sheet of foam below. 
 
 Leave We sailed from Trinidad on February 20, 
 
 aiidmho ^^'^^ ^* ^ ^■'^- °^^ *^^® following day were safely 
 .at Grenada anchored ill the Carenage of St. George, the 
 picturesque chief town of Grenada. 
 
 Februanj 22. — Going on deck shortly after 
 sunrise on the following morning, the land-locked 
 harbour presented an enchanting scene. It is 
 
A TRIP _T0 THE WEST ..INDIES IN ;892 -187 
 
 surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills of the The 
 most varied forms, clothed with the richest vege- 
 tation from their summits down to the water's 
 edge. 
 
 Eode up to the Grand Etang, the bridle path Ride lo the 
 of which ascends, in a distance of less than seven Etang 
 miles, to a height of some 2,000 feet. Having 
 scaled the topmost ridge, the view extends to the 
 eastward over the broad waters of the Atlantic, 
 and to the westward over the Caribbean Sea. In 
 the foreground lies a lake, some thirteen acres in 
 extent, filling an ancient crater. Throughout 
 the ascent the scenery is exquisitely beautiful. 
 The mountains are broken into lofty peaks and 
 deep valleys, affording at every turn some new 
 yet always charming view. The vegetation in- 
 cludes all the trees and flowers of the tropics. 
 Grenada is less dependent on a single product than 
 most of the islands of the West Indies. The 
 surface of the island is too mountainous for the 
 successful plantation of sugar. The chief product 
 is cocoa, the annual exports of which are valued Export ot 
 at nearly a quarter of a million. The quantity 
 shipped has doubled in the last ten years. Many 
 valuable spices are extensively cultivated. A 
 trade in fruit is being opened up with the. United 
 States. The aggregate exports have advanced 
 from 181,000^. in 1886 to 266,000Z. in 1890. 
 Cocoa grows most luxuriantly in the West Indies 
 up to an elevation of 2,000 feet. A planter who Cultivation 
 
 , 1 , . 1 1 • 1 1 of cocoa 
 
 contemplates growing cocoa must begin by clear- 
 
188 A TRIP TO THE AVEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 ing the forest, an operation which should be under- 
 taken a year before planting is attempted. As 
 soon as the forest is cleared, bananas should be 
 planted twelve to fifteen feet apart, and a nursery 
 formed in which the cocoa can be raised from 
 seed. At the end of the second year, during the 
 rainy season, the cocoa should be planted out, in 
 the proportion of about 300 trees to the acre. 
 In three years, in favourable localities affording 
 a deep soil, the plants begin to bear. In five 
 years the trees are in full bearing, and the produce 
 will average 900 lbs. to the acre. A good tree 
 should yield some three pounds of cocoa. The 
 price, according to the latest New York quotations, 
 was twelve cents per pound, which would give 
 108 dollars to the acre. 
 Cultivation Nutmeg is becoming a source of much profit 
 meg to many islands in the West Indies, and especially 
 
 in Grenada. For many years the nutmeg tree has 
 been grown ; it is only recently that its cultiva- 
 tion has received serious attention. To start a 
 nutmeg plantation the ground must be cleared, at 
 a cost of 61. per acre. Saman trees should then 
 be planted, forty-five feet apart. Meanwhile the 
 nutmeg seeds should be carefully reared in the 
 nursery. In about two years the seedlings should 
 be planted out. Unless the locality is very favour- 
 able, ten years must elapse before the trees begin 
 to be productive. A large number will be of the 
 male sex ; and as the proportion of male to female 
 trees should not exceed one in thirty, the planter 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 189 
 
 will have to cut down the trees freely as soon as 
 their sex is declared. Mr. "Whitfield Smith, the 
 able superintendent of the Botanical Gardens at 
 Grenada, believes that this difficulty may be over- 
 come by budding. It is reckoned that nutmegs 
 should yield an annual profit to the planter of about 
 ten shillings per tree. 
 
 The heights above St. George are crowned with The old 
 extensive stone forts, from which the last soldier 
 has long since been withdrawn. They were mostly 
 erected during the period of the French occupa- 
 tion, and were the scene of a hard struggle between 
 the forces of Lord Macartney and Count d'Estaing. 
 
 At Grenada we found the Governor, Sir Walter 
 Hely Hutchinson, busily engaged in an effort to 
 settle the labourers on the Crown lands of the 
 Windward Islands, the object in view being to 
 give to those colonies the advantage of numbering 
 among their population a large proportion of small 
 proprietors having a stake in the prosperity of the 
 islands. In pursuance of this policy, allotments Allotments 
 
 . PI- °' Crown 
 
 of Crown lands are m course of bemg sold to lands on 
 labourers at moderate prices. In time the number ward 
 of small proprietors vdll become considerable. It ■^^^'^"'^^ 
 will be obvious that this generous policy must be 
 carried out with care and discretion. Living under 
 a tropical sky and settled upon a productive soil, 
 the labourers, if left to themselves, will grow pro- 
 visions, such as cassava, yams, plantains, and 
 bananas, while the cultivation of cocoa and other 
 economical plants will be neglected. Dwelling in 
 
190 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 remote valleys, away from the influences of civili- 
 sation, the settlers may deteriorate both morally 
 Govern- and materially. To meet this difficulty it was at 
 Bchemes ^^^ time in contemplation that the Government 
 should form model plantations. The labourers 
 were to be paid at fixed price for the production 
 and to receive the profits in addition, after deduct- 
 ing cost of supervision and manufacture and a low 
 rent for the land. It has not as yet been found 
 practicable to carry out this scheme. Sir Walter 
 Proposal of Hely Hutchinson has now made a proposal for an 
 Hutciiiii'-'"^^ experimental clearing in the Richmond Valley in 
 ™" the island of St. Vincent. It is estimated to involve 
 
 an expenditure of 5,000^, on which a return of •') 
 per cent, may be looked for. This proposal may 
 prove sufficiently attractive, both from a philan- 
 thropic and a prudential point of view, to attract 
 subscriptions to the limited amount required. 
 In the afternoon of February 23, we steamed 
 A trip to from St. George to Goyave Bay, a distance of 
 nlJy"'''' seven miles, along a coast of surpassing loveliness. 
 The landing at Goyave was not unattended with 
 difficulty. We were most kindly received by Mr. 
 Gurney, vsrho is in charge of the extensive nutmeg 
 and cacao estates belonging to Colonel Duncan. 
 The scenery on the way to the plantation is en- 
 chanting. The road follows a stream descending 
 through a deep valley hemmed in by picturesque 
 mountains. Large clearings have been made in 
 the tropical forests, and in these the nutmeg and 
 cacao are grown in profuse abundance, 
 
A TEir TO THE \\EST INDIES IX 1892 191 
 
 Leaving Grenada on the 23rd, at daybreak on Leave 
 the following morning St. Vincent was near at and arrive 
 hand on the starboard bow, presenting a noble vincent 
 mass of mountains rising to a height of 4,000 feet. 
 Kingstown Bay is spacious, and offers excellent 
 shelter from the trade-wind, which rarely ceases 
 to blow. The anchorage commands a fine view 
 of the island. A stone fort of considei'able size 
 looks down upon the sea from the heights forming 
 the northern horn of the bay. Below, upon the 
 shore lies Kingstown, small but regularly built. Kingstown 
 It reminded Mr. Froude of a scene in Norway, from the 
 The mountains, of volcanic formation, rise in the ^"'^ '"'"^^ 
 background to a height of nearly 3,000 feet. As 
 at Grenada and Trinidad the sky-line is broken 
 into sharp peaks and crags of the most varied and 
 beautiful forms. The mountain sides are furrowed 
 by deep ravines, and are clothed with dense forests, 
 rich vegetation, and abundant pastures. The rain- 
 fall here, as in all parts of the West Indies, is 
 copious. Throughout the year the islands are clad 
 in a fresh gTeen mantle. Government House is a 
 conspicuous object in the landscape. It stands a 
 few hundred feet above the town, in a botanical 
 garden adorned with noble trees. 
 
 The Administrator, Captain Maling, paid an 
 early call on board. We discussed the recent 
 troubles among the black population. Discontent Discontent 
 had been caused by the proposal to cease to main- native 
 tain in each island a separate Chief Justice, of p°p"1'^''°" 
 necessity comparatively poorly paid, and only par- 
 
192 A TMP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 tially employed. The Government were desirous 
 of appointing law officers at higher salaries, who 
 should undertake to act for a group of islands. 
 The plan was unpopular in those islands which 
 would have been deprived of a resident official 
 while called upon to contribute to the salary of an 
 officer resident elsewhere. The attempts at dis- 
 turbance were effectively quelled by the prompt 
 action taken by Sir Walter Hely Hutchinson. 
 The authority of the Government having been 
 sufficiently asserted, it has not been thought neces- 
 sary to press the adoption of a useful reform. It 
 is a great mistake to suppose that the multiplicity 
 of officials in the islands is due to a desire at home 
 to have the command of a large patronage. The 
 obstacles to reduction are raised by the people of 
 the several islands. 
 
 Prociuctsof If sugar is the most important product of St. 
 
 t le IS an yjncent, arrowroot is the most characteristic 
 article grown in the island. The quality is un- 
 surpassed, while the price yields a highly en- 
 couraging return. The cultivation of cocoa and 
 nutmeg has been commenced with satisfactory 
 results. Sisal hemp can be^ grown in perfection. 
 It is proposed to open up a trade in fruit with the 
 United States and Canada, by giving subsidies to 
 a line of steamers. 
 
 Native The black population have been complaining, 
 
 and not without reason, of the low scale to which 
 their wages have been reduced. The men now 
 barely earn a shilhng per day, and the women 
 
A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 193 
 
 somewhat less. In the depression which had 
 lately fallen on the sugar industry, reductions of Reduotion 
 wages were accepted as inevitable. In the more ° ^'^^"^ 
 cheering position which has now been reached, 
 the negroes consider that their pay should be 
 more liberal. We passed through large gather- 
 ings of people in Kingstown and the outskirts. 
 They bore no marks of squalor or of discontent. 
 Their demeanour was most friendly. 
 
 Weighing anchor shortly after midnight, at Leave 
 dawn on February 25th we were off the famous 
 Pitons of St. Lucia. These noble peaks rise to The Pitons 
 a height of more than 2,000 feet above the sea. Lucia 
 The higher of the two is a mountain mass with 
 precipitous sides. The less lofty is a sugar-loaf 
 peak, similar in form to the Pan d'Azucar, which 
 forms such a fine feature in the entrance to the 
 splendid harbour of Bio de Janeiro. We closed 
 with the beautiful shore of St. Lucia a few miles 
 north of the Pitons. The coast is indented by 
 numerous bays, affording excellent anchorage. 
 In the valleys and low grounds the sugar-cane is 
 cultivated. 
 
 At 8 A.M. we entered the port of Castries. Anchor m 
 Two steamers, bearing the well known blue stripe Castries, 
 of Messrs. Lamport & Holt, were at anchor at '' ■'^"'"°' 
 the entrance of the harbour. The yellow flag 
 was flying on the fore, the vessels having recently 
 come from Santos, where yellow fever is raging. 
 Fatal cases having occurred on both vessels, 
 pratique would not be given until fourteen days 
 VOL. II. 
 
194 A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Coaling at 
 St. Lucia 
 
 Castries 
 Bay as a 
 coaling 
 station 
 
 Security of 
 the harbour 
 
 Insanitary 
 conditions 
 
 had elapsed from the date of the last death. The 
 harbour-master was an old acquaintance, who 
 had last brought us to an anchor at St. Helena. 
 He took charge of the ' Sunbeam,' and we were 
 soon made fast to the wharf belonging to Messrs. 
 Castanet. Thirty tons of good coal were put on 
 board in an hour and a half. The operation of 
 coaling is performed as quickly at St. Lucia as at 
 any other port in the world. The coal is brought 
 on board in baskets, the work being done entirely 
 by women who can earn up to eight shillings a 
 day. 
 
 Our visit to St. Lucia was undertaken mainly 
 with the view of forming an opinion on the spot 
 as to its merits and capabilities as a coaling sta- 
 tion. Castries Bay is easily defended and the 
 harbour is secure. The physical conditions which 
 render Castries Bay a secure harbour, tend to 
 make its stagnant waters unhealthy under a tro- 
 pical sun. Malarial fevers are prevalent, and 
 especially in marshy ground, of which there is a 
 large extent around the shores of the harbour. 
 Drainage is a serious difficulty at Castries. The 
 town is built on a small space of flat ground, and 
 is completely hemmed in by an amphitheatre of 
 high and precipitous hills. There is no flow of 
 running water, and the insanitary condition can 
 be only too easily appreciated. The Government 
 should have an absolute control over the civil 
 population of Castries ; it should acquire posses- 
 sion of the entire foreshore ; it should have the 
 
A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 195 
 
 power to fix the number of people who should 
 be permitted to settle in the vicinity of the 
 harbour. 
 
 It has been proposed to remove to St. Lucia 
 the British troops hitherto stationed at Barbados. 
 On many grounds the latter seems the more Advan- 
 desirable station in peace. The barracks are BMbadoa 
 admirably adapted to a hot climate. They stand L™cif for 
 near the breezy shore, in a spacious savannah or troops 
 park, equally convenient for drills and exercise, 
 for cricket, tennis, and polo. It should not be 
 put out of view that Barbados has a population of 
 172,000, as against the 44,000 of St. Lucia. As 
 a link with the mother country, it is desirable 
 that the British troops in the "West Indies should 
 be stationed, in peace, in the largest centres of 
 population. If war threatened, in a few hours 
 the force in Barbados could be moved to St. Lucia. 
 In connection with the fortification of St. Lucia 
 as a coaling-station, it must be recognised that it 
 may be a long distance from the theatre of war. 
 With fast merchant-steamers to carry supplies of 
 coal, a movable rendezvous might offer great 
 advantages. 
 
 Leaving St. Lucia on February 26th, at dawn Leave St. 
 on March 1st the Blue Mountains of Jamaica arri!ett^ 
 were in view. "We ran through the Cays of Port j '^^^'°"' 
 Eoyal and through the ship-channel leading up to 
 Kingston, without a pilot, at full speed, and drop- 
 ped anchor at 4 p.m. A few minutes later Sir 
 Henry Blake and his staff were on board and gave 
 
 o 2 
 
196 A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Jamaica 
 
 Improved 
 prosperity 
 of the 
 island 
 
 Depression 
 of ihe 
 sugar 
 industry 
 
 US a cordial welcome. The large and important 
 island of Jamaica is beginning to rally from a 
 long period of depression. The exports from 
 Jamaica have increased from 1,280,000Z. in 1886 
 to 1,903,000Z. in 1890-91. While the export trade 
 to the United Kingdom has remained nearly sta- 
 tionary, the development has been rapid in the 
 trade with the United States, especially in fruit. 
 In 1890-91 the exports of oranges and bananas 
 exceeded half a million sterling in value. Jamaica 
 is fortunate in the variety of its products, which 
 include sugar, coffee, ginger, rum, and dye-wood. 
 The prosperity of the island is abundantly proved 
 by the increase in the imports from 1,326,000Z. in 
 1886 to 2,189,000Z. in the latest returns. Of the 
 import trade of Jamaica 56 per cent, is with the 
 United Kingdom. 
 
 It is interesting to trace the causes which led 
 to the depression of the sugar interest in the West 
 Indies. Sir Henry Blake was my teacher on this 
 subject. Half a century ago the supply of sugar 
 was comparatively limited, and the price was 601. 
 a ton. With ever-increasing sources of supply a 
 great fall in price ensued, and no improvement 
 having been made in the methods of cultivation and 
 manufacture, the position of the sugar planters 
 vFas far from prosperous. Their misfortunes were 
 not caused by the manumission of the slaves. 
 The decay of the sugar industry in the West 
 Indies began in 1830, and was mainly, if not 
 solely, due to the increasing competition and the 
 
A TRIP TO THE "WEST INDIES IN 1892 197 
 
 consequent gradual fall in prices. At the present 
 day labour is not more costly than at the time 
 when slaves were employed. The slave cost Is. 6d. 
 per day, and the price of coolie labour is approxi- 
 mately the same. Under the pressure of difficult 
 times the methods of growing and manufacturing 
 sugar have been greatly improved, and the cost of improved 
 production, including interest on capital, has been p^^^^" ^ 
 brought down from 101. to 121. a ton. Sugar is 
 now selling at 3| cents per pound, or 161. 6s. 8d. 
 per ton, thus giving the planter a not unsatisfac- 
 tory return. 
 
 In considering the complaints urged at home 
 by those who claim to speak in the interest of the 
 planters, it must be borne in mind that the West 
 India Society is mainly an organisation of pro- The West 
 prietors, the management of whose affairs has Society 
 been committed to local agents. The absentee Absentee 
 must employ in the first place an attorney, who pUntoHono 
 holds the legal authority and exercises only a 
 general control over operations. The estate is, as 
 a rule, worked with capital borrowed from a mer- 
 chant, who probably charges 8 per cent, for 
 advances made on the drafts of the attorney. 
 The merchant, taking a lien on the crop as security 
 for his advances, claims to have the arrangement 
 of the freightage, and charges a commission on 
 the freight. He has the management of the sale 
 of the produce in England, and upon this opera- 
 tion another commission must be paid. In the 
 working of a sugar plantation the immediate 
 
198 A TMP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 supervision is committed to an overseer, assisted 
 by a bookkeeper. To these men is entrusted the 
 management of the cultivation of the cane, the 
 distillation of the rum, and the manufacture of 
 the sugar. To do the work well, technical know- 
 ledge and the invigorating influence of personal 
 interest are required. It would be a moderate 
 estimate to put the charges for management and 
 Charges for supervision at 20 per cent. A resident owner, 
 
 manage- , . . . 
 
 ment having the command of sufficient capital, escapes 
 
 these heavy burdens. It is unfortunate that 
 three-fourths of the owners of sugar estates in the 
 "West Indies are absentees. It has been proposed 
 to substitute factories for the present system of 
 separate mills for each plantation. To ensure the 
 success of such a change operations must be con- 
 ducted on a large scale. To run a factory equipped 
 with the most improved machinery, it would be 
 necessary to command the entire quantity of cane 
 grown upon an area of not less than four or five 
 thousand acres. A number of growers must com- 
 bine in order to establish an efficient factory. 
 
 Coffee is an article of growing importance in 
 the productions of Jamaica. In value it is in 
 advance of sugar, and the quality produced is of 
 high standard. The fruit trade with the United 
 States has advanced by leaps and bounds. Sir 
 Henry Blake confidently believes that a large 
 vegetable trade in early potatoes and tomatoes can 
 be developed, and that the cacao may be success- 
 fully cultivated. In order to start a new industry, 
 
 Coffee and 
 
 fruit 
 
 growing 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 199 
 
 the Government must take the initial steps. For 
 this purpose it is proposed to establish parochial 
 committees. Through their agency the cultivators 
 could be placed in communication with competent 
 instructors, who would teach the most approved 
 methods of cultivating and preparing cacao. The 
 importance of a good method may be appreciated 
 from the fact that Trinidad fetches 60s. per cwt. Superiority 
 more than Jamaica cacao, the difference in quality cacao 
 being entirely due to the superior method of pre- 
 paration. The Governor proposes to buy cacao 
 from the growers, to prepare it properly, and offer 
 it for sale. The results of the operation in relation 
 to the costs of the process and the prices fetched 
 will be made known to the growers. Flour made 
 from dried bananas, preserved fruits, onions raised 
 from seed imported from the Canary Islands, and 
 other articles, it is believed, could be advanta- 
 geously produced. It is highly satisfactory to 
 know that there is no lack of capital in Jamaica. 
 
 Turning to the relations between this colony Loyalty of 
 and the mother country, it is gratifying to know *'^® °a*'ves 
 that among the coloured population the feeling is 
 decidedly against secession to the United States. 
 They do not like the inferior social position which 
 the black people occupy in the great Eepublic. 
 In religious naatters it is interesting to notice the 
 success of the Moravians. Every minister in this Energy 
 sect works with his own hands, thereby setting an of the 
 example of industry, and imparting a dignity to °'^''"^'^"» 
 labour. The ministers who are sent out from 
 
200 A TEIP TO THE ,AVEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Germany must all be married men, the wives 
 being selected, not by their future husbands, but 
 by the governing body of the sect. Thrift among 
 the Moravians is universal. Their schools are 
 admirable. 
 
 On March 5th we made an expedition by rail- 
 Exoursion way to Balaklava, a distance of 75 miles. The 
 kiava difficulties which the engineers of the line have 
 
 surmounted may be appreciated from the fact that 
 Balaklava, distant 75 miles from Kingston, stands 
 at an elevation of 1,800 feet above the sea. The 
 engines being fitted with bogies, the sharp curves 
 Scenery of ofifer uo difficulties. The views throughout were 
 delightful. The broad sweeps of grass dotted with 
 single trees, with occasional thickets of denser 
 growth, recalled the scenery of an English park, 
 though the trees are those of the tropics. The 
 cattle, of the shorthorn breeds of our own country, 
 thrive marvellously under a sun and in a climate 
 vastly different from that of England, with its 
 chilly wind and sullen skies. By frequent and 
 swift transition the scene would change from 
 sylvan prospects of broad expanse and abundant 
 pasture to some narrow gorge, hemmed in by 
 rocks and shaded by hanging woods of impene- 
 trable density. Or, again, emerging from a short 
 tunnel through the limestone, and skirting a 
 precipice of giddy height, a view of vast extent 
 would be suddenly disclosed, ridge rising beyond 
 ridge as far as the eye could reach. 
 
 The experiences of the constructors of the line 
 
A TEIP TO THE AVEST INDIES IN 1802 201 
 
 to Balaklava exemplify the uniformity in the cost 
 of labour all over the world. The pay of the 
 navvy in Jamaica ranges from one to two shillings J^?^^' °f. 
 a day. To the labourer of the same class in the Jamaica 
 United States six shillings a day would be paid. 
 And yet the cost of construction is approximately 
 the same in the two countries. In connection 
 with wages and the cost of labour, it was observed, 
 with equal generosity and wisdom, by the presi- 
 dent of the railway, that it was desirable that 
 wages in Jamaica should rise from the low stand- 
 ard of one shilling a day, which, though sufficient 
 to provide the. bare necessities of life in a genial 
 climate, will certainly not secure to the labourers 
 decent dwellings or any of the benefits of civilisa- 
 tion. 
 
 We reached our destination in three hours and 
 a half. On ahghting from the train we were ^''[o^yaf^'^' 
 received by the leading people of the district, assembly 
 headed by the episcopal clergyman. The party 
 then proceeded to the market-place, where several 
 thousand people had assembled. They had come 
 in from the surrounding districts, dressed in clothes 
 which a stranger might have supposed were their 
 ' Simday best,' but which were the costumes of 
 every day. The negress loves the gayest prints 
 that can be supplied from the looms of Lancashire, 
 and the mixture of colours was rich and har- 
 monious. The crowd sang ' God Save the Queen ' 
 with loyal enthusiasm, and listened with breathless 
 attention to the Governor's address. Not a scowl 
 
202 
 
 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Simpleness 
 of the 
 natives 
 
 Marine 
 biology at 
 Jamaica 
 
 Viait Port 
 Eoyal 
 
 Leave 
 
 Jamaica 
 
 or a sign of discontent was seen. It is impossible 
 not to like these amiable and simple people. It 
 should be the pride of England to retain the affec- 
 tion of a race she has emancipated from thraldom. 
 If little of material advantage can be gained from 
 the connection, there is a moral greatness in 
 keeping people who need it under our protecting 
 care. To the negro, leaders are essential. In the 
 neighbouring island of Hayti we see how low men 
 may fall without the helping hand. 
 
 Sir Henry and Lady Blake have much at heart 
 the establishment of a marine biological station at 
 Jamaica. Nothing of the sort is at present in 
 existence in tropical latitudes, and the constant 
 current of the Gulf Stream will, it is believed, 
 bring to the station at Jamaica a rich treasure of 
 specimens of the marine life of the Atlantic in low 
 latitudes. The project will, it is hoped, be liber- 
 ally aided by the Imperial Grovernment and by 
 personal contributions. It has been warmly 
 commended by Professor Huxley, Professor Bay 
 Lankester, Professor Flower, and Lord Eosse, and 
 has been taken up in the United States. 
 
 March 8. — Weighed at 6 A.M. Steamed down 
 the bay to Port Eoyal. Walking through the 
 naval hospital, and over the adjacent space of 
 well-drained ground belonging to the war depart- 
 ment, washed by the waves, and with an atmo- 
 sphere freshened by the daily breezes from the sea, 
 it is difficult to realise the causes which make the 
 place unhealthy. Proceeding to sea, we encoun- 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 203 
 
 tered a strong trade-wind, and off Morant Point 
 had a hard struggle for a couple of hours. In the 
 afternoon we steamed pleasantly along the north 
 coast of Jamaica. The mountains rise to a height 
 of 7,000 feet, their slopes broken by deep ravines, 
 and covered with the richest tropical vegetation. 
 The lower levels, near the coast, are of great fer- 
 tility, and sugar is extensively grown. At 5 p.m. 
 we made the entrance to Port Antonio, and 
 shortly afterwards were safely moored in its land- Anchor in 
 locked waters. The scenery of the harbour is Antonio 
 exquisite. The town is charmingly situated on a 
 peninsula, dividing the harbour into two parts. 
 Rocks jut out from the shore in many places. 
 The vegetation is most luxuriant. Among the 
 trees are seen the chtirch and the straggling 
 dwellings clustered round it, forming a delightful 
 picture. 
 
 March 9. — Landed at 6.30 a.m. Port An- Port 
 tonio is a principal place of shipment for the large anVodio 
 supply of bananas now furnished by Jamaica to 
 the United States. A steamer and several 
 schooners were loading their cargoes of fruit. An 
 air of plenty and happiness rests on this lovely 
 spot. We anchored at noon at Ocho Eios, a 
 favourite anchorage of Her Majesty's ships on 
 this station, less land-locked than Port Antonio. 
 If the foreground has not quite the charm of our 
 last anchorage, the distant views are supremely 
 beautiful. From this port we took our departure 
 in the afternoon for Cuba. 
 
 Rios 
 
204 A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Leave 
 Jamaica, 
 Arrive at 
 Havana 
 
 Tlie town 
 
 The 
 
 harbour 
 and 
 shipping 
 
 Favoured by the trade-wind, we entered the 
 harbour of Havana at 8 p.m. on March 14th. The 
 town itself has been well-described by Janaes W. 
 Steele, in a recent volume, as ' a low-lying city, of 
 parti-coloured architecture, the walls of which are 
 red, blue, and yellow ; a city in which there is not 
 a chimney, a cooking-stove, a four-storey house, 
 or a side walk three feet wide ; and yet a city of 
 near 300,000 souls.' Havana is utterly without 
 shade. In its mean and miserable plazas not a 
 tree is seen of growth sufficiently luxuriant to 
 give the smallest protection from the rays of a 
 burning sun. The throng in the streets is a mot- 
 ley gathering of Spaniards, negroes, Cubans, and 
 Chinese. Smoking is the universal occupation in 
 this land of indolence. The spacious and well- 
 sheltered harbour is entered by a narrow channel 
 commanded by the guns of the Spanish citadel, or 
 Moro. Beyond the entrance it spreads into two 
 spacious anchorages, divided by a peninsula, on 
 which are erected large sheds and storehouses. 
 The flag of the Spanish Admiral was carried on a 
 powerful cruiser ; and seven smaller vessels, rang- 
 ing from the sloop to the gunboat, were anchored 
 round the flag-ship. Steamers of the largest class 
 enter and leave Havana daily, communicating 
 with Cadiz, St. Nazaire, Colon, Tampa and New 
 York. A numerous fleet of three-masted schooners, 
 under the American flag, is always lying here. 
 Our immediate neighbours were some fine barques, 
 which bring petroleum from the States and return 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 189?, 205 
 
 with cargoes of molasses. The harbour is inde- 
 scribably filthy, and in the hot season most 
 unhealthy. Visitations of yellow fever are fre- 
 quent and severe. The sanitary conditions will 
 be materially improved by cutting a channel from 
 the head of the harbour to the sea. 
 
 March 15. — Went by train to Matanzas, start- a trip to 
 
 , _ -, ■ ■ , _ . . Matanzas 
 
 mg at 6 A.M., and arriving at our destination, a by rail 
 distance of some seventy miles, in two hours and 
 a half. The railway is in excellent order, and well 
 worked, with American rolling-stock. The scenery 
 presents no striking features. The riches derived 
 from cultivation are not largely bestowed upon the 
 labourers. The dwellings of the small farmers and Native 
 field-hands consist of twigs and bark, this imperfect 
 shelter being shared with the pigs and poultry. 
 The family form a group round their humble shed, 
 clothed wretchedly, yet evidently not enduring the 
 pinch of poverty as it would be felt under a less 
 serene sky. Here and there the railway passes a 
 sugar-estate, usually well equipped. Mr. Steele 
 states in his Cuban sketches that some sugar- 
 estates employ from 500 to 700 hands, and work 
 400 head of oxen, besides mules and horses. They 
 make their own gas, lime, and bricks, and construct 
 their own railways. A considerable acreage is de- 
 voted to the cultivation of the plantain. Every 
 kind of vegetable is grown in abundance. At Ma- 
 tanzas we found a string of volantes awaiting our 
 arrival. A volante is a specially Cuban invention, a voiante 
 It carries you over the most uneven roads with the 
 
206 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 harbour 
 
 least possible shaking and Jolting. It may be 
 described as a small cabriolet mounted on a huge 
 pair of wheels, and drawn by two mules, one being 
 yoked to elongated shafts, while the other, ridden 
 by a postillion, is loosely attached to the vehicle by 
 traces of such length that the tail of the postillion's 
 horse is level with the nose of the wheeler. A 
 short drive brought us to the summit of a hill, 
 where we alighted, and, under the welcome shade 
 of a row of laurel trees, looked down on the bay 
 View of the filled with American three-masted schooners. 
 From the port of Matanzas a large quantity of 
 produce of the island is shipped. Descending to 
 the harbour, and following the shore for a distance 
 of iovoc miles, we arrived at the stalactite caves, 
 which are the great natural wonder of these parts. 
 In bidding farewell to Cuba, a few words may 
 perhaps be said about the Government. The 
 casual visitor cannot fail to be impressed with the 
 evidences of inefficient administration. The fiscal 
 policy is intensely exclusive. The taxation is heavy 
 and the Government absolutely despotic. The 
 police maintain a system of intolerable espionage. 
 Ev^ery salaried servant of the local government is 
 a Spaniard, who regards Cuba as a vassal state 
 over which Spain has unlimited rights, without 
 reciprocal duties or obligations. The system has 
 already severed all her noble settlements in South 
 America from the mother country. In time it 
 must involve the loss of Cuba. 
 
 On March 16th a moderate trade-wind was 
 
 Cuba and 
 its govern- 
 ment 
 
 Despotic 
 views of 
 Spain 
 
A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 207 
 
 blowing, to which we made sail for the Chesapeake. Leave 
 The atmosphere was serene and balmy, the sky " "■ 
 almost cloudless. We were in company with 
 several fine three-masted schooners. At noon the 
 next day we had made good a distance of 125 miles 
 against a fresh north-east trade wind, but assisted 
 by nearly sixty miles of current. In the afternoon 
 the wind drew to the eastward, and we were able 
 to lay our course, with sheets eased off, under the 
 shelter of the Bahama Banks ; temperature over 
 80°. The following day it was blowing fresh from 
 the S.W., and on March 19th we were contending 
 with a revolving gale. Beginning at S., and A revolving 
 gradually veering by the W. to N.W., the centre 
 was to the westward and moving to the N.E. 
 March 20. — At noon, the weather having mode- 
 rated, we had made good 202 knots, under all 
 possible sail. In the evening the wind died away 
 to a calm. At midnight we were under steam. 
 March 21. — At 11 a.m. made Cape Lookout. At 
 midnight, anchored in Hatteras Cove. March Anchor in 
 22. — "Weighed at 6 a.m. At midnight made Cape cove 
 Henry, the southern cape of the entrance to the 
 great inland sea of the Chesapeake. At 3 a.m. 
 on the 23rd, entered the Chesapeake before a fresh Enter the 
 breeze from the S.E. ; set all plain sails, with peake' 
 studsails. Ean along eleven knots over a sea 
 without a ripple. At 10 a.m., entered the Potomac. 
 
 The distance from Cape Henry to the entrance Extent of 
 of the river Potomac is over sixty miles, and thence pg^ke *^* 
 to Washington ninety miles. The Chesapeake, 
 
208 A TEIP TO THE "WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 the most extensive and important estuary on the 
 eastern seaboard of North America, is about 170 
 miles in length, with a general north and south 
 direction. The width varies from twenty miles to 
 three miles. On the western side it receives the 
 waters of the James, York, Eappahannock, Po- 
 tomac, Pavtuxent, Patapsco, and Susquehanna 
 rivers. The James is navigable for vessels of 7 feet 
 draught as high as Bichmond, and for seventy 
 miles from its mouth for vessels drawing 15 feet. 
 The Potomac is navigable for vessels of 21-feet 
 draught as far as Washington. The other rivers 
 named are all navigable. The total area drained 
 into the Chesapeake is not less than 60,000 square 
 miles. 
 
 The facilities afforded by this vast inland sea 
 Navigation ^'^d its tributaries for the purposes of navigation 
 fng trade' ^^® thoroughly Utilised. The waters are crowded 
 with fleets of schooners — from the five-master, 
 capable of carrying a cargo of 1,500 tons, to the 
 yacht-like little vessel which cannot venture beyond 
 Cape Henry. The labour-saving skill of the 
 Americans is nowhere better illustrated than in 
 the extensive coasting-trade of the country. By 
 Coasting adopting fore-and-aft rig, and iising a steam winch 
 for weighing the anchor, hoisting the sails, and 
 working the cargo, it is found possible to navigate 
 with crews averaging one hand, including officers, 
 to every 100 or 150 tons of cargo carried. The 
 coasting schooners of the United States are smart 
 in appearance, as well as economical in working. 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 209 
 
 The hulls are fine models, broad in beam, with a 
 good sheer, and long, flat floor. The sails are skil- 
 fully cut, and are set in a seamanlike manner. 
 During our voyage up to Washington the sky was 
 cloudless, and the sun shone with a pale, soft, 
 yellow light upon the broad river flowing calmly 
 and majestically to the sea. With such lovely 
 sunlight effects the tamest landscapes possess an 
 indefinable charm. At sunset we anchored. 
 
 March 24. — Weighed at 6 a.m. and proceeded proceed up 
 mider steam. Two years had elapsed since our ^o'iomac 
 pilot had last made a trip to Washington, and he 
 had but an imperfect recollection of the buoyage, 
 which is frequently changed. Plis anxieties did 
 not grow less as we advanced higher up the 
 Potomac. At 11 a.m. we passed Mount Vernon, the 
 justly -venerated home of the noble founder of this 
 great Eepublic. We saluted the American flag by 
 dipping the ensign and tolling the ship's bell. 
 Shortly after this ceremony had been performed, 
 and when nearly abreast of Fort Washington, we 
 ran aground, owing to our ignorance of the fact Run 
 that a buoy had been recently shifted from the left ■^^'^°"" 
 to the right bank of the river. Three hours later, 
 on the rising tide, with the engines going full speed 
 astern, and a heavy strain on a kedge, we succeeded 
 in getting afloat. In the interval we had received Get oft and 
 two most kind offers of assistance fram the ' Dol- walhing- 
 phin,' U.S.N., and from a fine river-steamer, the '°" 
 ' Macalister,' returning with a party which had 
 been making a pious pilgrimage to Mount Vernon. 
 VOL. II. P 
 
210 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 I will not give all the details of a pleasant visit 
 to the Axnerican capital. Among the many objects 
 
 Visit to the of interest visited, we went over the Navy Yard. 
 
 Navy Yard rpj^g j^g^^y Yard in Washington is practically the 
 gun-foundry for the American Navy, and ship- 
 building is hardly attempted. The work consists 
 in assembling the different parts of a gun when 
 delivered to the Government from the private 
 trade. The metallurgical industry of the United 
 States is distinguished for ingenuity and enterprise. 
 It will be in a condition in a short time to supply 
 anything for which there is a steady demand for 
 the use of the Navy. The new gun foundry is an 
 example of what can be accomplished in this 
 country. The establishment consists of two prin- 
 cipal workshops, of truly magnificent proportions. 
 The tools are the perfection of ingenious contri- 
 vance. Every idea of the European makers has 
 been examined, and whatever seemed good has 
 been adopted. The work for this foundry has been 
 carried out on a strictly eclectic principle. No 
 prejudices have interfered in the endeavour to 
 attain to perfection. The largest gun in the United 
 States navy is the 13-inch gun. We saw several 
 of these monsters in various stages of advancement. 
 Close and constant attention has been given to the 
 quick-firing ordnance. 
 
 In Congress attention is at present concentrated 
 on the silver question. The free-silver raen are 
 making a determined effort ; but the strong finan- 
 cial influences of New York are against bi-metallism. 
 
 The gun 
 foundry 
 
 Perfection 
 of the 
 machinery 
 
 The silver 
 question 
 
A TRIP TO THE "WEST INDIES IN 1892 211 
 
 If the production increases in greater ratio than 
 the production of gold, no action on the part of 
 governments can prevent a fall in the price of 
 silver. In so far as the fall arises from demoneti- 
 sation, the value may be raised by an increased 
 use of silver for coinage. The combined efforts 
 of the leading financial countries may throw further 
 and valuable light upon the discussion. 
 
 We also visited the Supreme Court, the House Public 
 of Congress, and the Senate. The central hall of ^^ '"^^ 
 the Capitol is adorned with pictures, perhaps of 
 more merit as historical records than as works of 
 art. We were struck by the thoroughly English 
 type of Washington and his contemporaries. It 
 is touching to see the New England pilgrims pre- 
 sented here, as they are at Westminster, assembled 
 on their knees on the deck of the ' Mayflower.' 
 Their memorable voyage is of equal concern to 
 the country they left behind and to that in which 
 they settled. 
 
 A reference should not be omitted to the 
 Washington Monument, a simple obelisk of white The Wash- 
 marble of perfect proportions, rising to a height of Monument 
 five hundred and twenty-five feet, and standing on 
 a grassy slope by the waters of the Potomac. In 
 its majestic elevation, in its simplicity and beauty 
 of design, it is worthy of the great name it com- 
 memorates. No inscription has been attempted. 
 Washington's fame is recorded in the pages, of 
 history, and the visitor of to-day is wisely left to 
 his own reflections. 
 
 p 2 
 
212 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Mr. Blaine 
 on the 
 Eastern 
 question 
 
 Leave 
 "Washing- 
 ton. 
 
 Down the 
 Potomac 
 
 Across the 
 Atlantic 
 
 Arrive at 
 Plymouth 
 
 Nihil ex omnibus rebus humanis est praeolarius aut praestantius 
 quam de republica bene mereri. 
 
 In the afternoon called on Mr. Blaine. Among 
 many things discussed we turned to the situation 
 at Constantinople. Mr. Blaine thinks that England 
 should resist the advance of Russia, and that our 
 prestige will be lowered if we allow a position, over 
 which we have long claimed a commanding influ- 
 ence, to pass without a struggle under the control 
 of another power. Called on Mr. Secretary Tracey 
 who presides over the naval department. He is 
 an able lawyer, with no technical knowledge. We 
 talked of ship-building. He thinks big guns, and 
 consequently large ships, indispensable for putting 
 in the heavy blows. 
 
 March 30. — At 9.30 A.M. proceeded under steam 
 down the Potomac without a pilot. I had ob- 
 tained the latest United States charts from the 
 master of the yacht ' Lurline.' During the day 
 we slightly touched the ground twice, owing to 
 our amiability in going out of the main channel to 
 avoid doing injury to the nets of fishermen. At 
 7.30 anchored between Blakistone Island and 
 Piney Point. The next morning weighed at 
 5.30 A.M. and proceeded under steam. At noon 
 we were sailing down the Chesapeake, homeward 
 bound, on a bitterly cold day, with an east wind 
 and a rising barometer. At midnight passed out 
 to sea. On April 19 landed at Plymouth. 
 
 In bringing this hasty and imperfect description 
 of our cruise to a close, we may appropriately ask 
 
A TEIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 213 
 
 ourselves how far has England been successful in Reflection 
 performing the duties which a wealthy and power- voyage. 
 ful country owes to dependencies in the state of tudetoand 
 advancement which we have found in the West f^ti'^"" 
 Indies ? Our first responsibility is that of giving West 
 protection from external foes. For this purpose 
 the Imperial fleet is the most effective instrument. 
 There have been intervals in the past when the 
 public was imperfectly informed and too little 
 concerned as to the state of the navy. Those 
 were days when the Government and Parliament 
 were tempted to seek an ephemeral popularity by 
 cutting down expenditure. Economy was carried 
 far beyond the prevention of waste. The main 
 elements of naval power were seriously curtailed. 
 In recent years a firm resolve has been taken to 
 preserve our naval supremacy, and to keep our increase of 
 dependencies secure under the guardianship of strength 
 powerful fleets. 
 
 Come tlie three corners of the world in arms, 
 
 And we shall shock them. Nought shall make us rue, 
 
 If England to herself do rest but true. 
 
 Turning to social advancement and material 
 prosperity, it will be evident that those who have 
 lately cruised in the ' Sunbeam ' have returned 
 with brighter impressions than those formed by improved 
 some previous travellers. "When Mr. Froude of the*^' ^ 
 visited the West Indies in 1887, extreme depres- '^''"^'^^ 
 sion prevailed, and the gloom which had settled 
 upon those islands is reflected in every page of the 
 narrative of his voyage. In the interval which 
 
214 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 Future 
 develop- 
 ment. 
 Impor- 
 tance of 
 good 
 governors 
 
 Vast extent 
 of land un- 
 cultivated 
 
 has since elapsed a happy change has passed upon 
 that portion of our colonial empire with which we 
 have been dealing. All the elements of trade, and 
 all the statistics which indicate the improving or 
 declining condition of a country show a satisfactory 
 tendency. 
 
 In the work of future development the main 
 service which we can render to our West Indian 
 possessions is to appoint good men to fill the of&ce 
 of governor. The legislature and the executive 
 staff are equally dependent on his initiative and 
 control. At the present time the governors of the 
 West Indian Islands are engaged in a task full of 
 promise for the future, which could only be under- 
 taken under the impulse of disinterested motives 
 and with the support of commanding influence. 
 The work to which I allude is the elevation of the 
 negro population into the condition of peasant 
 proprietors. It is to men in the position of a 
 governor that we look to deal with such a question 
 with a single eye to the greatest happiness of the 
 greatest number. The vast extent of land avail- 
 able for cultivation, but still unoccupied, is one of 
 the most striking features in the present condition 
 of the West Indies. Barbados is the only island 
 at which we touched in our recent cruise, of which 
 it may be said that its resources have been fully 
 developed. In Trinidad, with a total of 1,120,000 
 acres, 194,000 are cultivated. Grenada has an 
 acreage of 76,653, and 22,000 acres under cultiva- 
 tion. St. Vincent has a total acreage of 85,000, 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IK 1892 215 
 
 and 13,000 under cultivation. In St. Lucia only 
 one-third of the island has ever been cultivated. 
 In Jamaica the total area available for cultivation 
 is 2,312,000 acres, the total under cultivation 
 being 612,570 acres. 
 
 In the local legislatures of the several islands Peasant 
 the planters naturally wield a dominant influence, tors. 
 Their interests and those of the people they em- by the '""^ 
 ploy are not in all respects identical. The condi- P'^^'^rs 
 tion of the labourers would be greatly improved if 
 they could become more generally peasant pro- 
 prietors. Legislation for such an object is opposed 
 by the planters, who rightly think that if the 
 negroes become owners of the soil, they would be 
 less ready than at present to work for wages, 
 averaging on a sugar estate a shilling a day for 
 men and tenpence for women. Success in sugar 
 planting, with the low prices now reigning, can 
 only be secured by cheapening the cost of produc- 
 tion. If the establishment of a peasant proprie- 
 tary should create a difl&culty in obtaining native 
 labour for plantations, carried on upon a large 
 scale, the importation of coolie labour would be the 
 effective remedy. 
 
 The "West Indies are scarcely yet ripe for a More self- 
 larger measure of self-government than they at mentnot 
 present possess. In the smaller islands, where ^^"^ ® 
 representative institutions were established, they 
 have been abolished at the request of the people. 
 In the larger islands legislatures are constituted 
 on a hybrid system, combining nominated and 
 
216 A TEIP TO THE "WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 elected members. To this rule Trinidad is the 
 principal exception, all the members of Council 
 being appointed by the Crown. The Constitution 
 The of Jamaica consists of a Governor, a Privy 
 
 legidatures Council, and a Legislative Council of nominated 
 and elected members. The electoral qualification 
 is the annual payment of twenty shillings in rates 
 or taxes. In Barbados the Government consists 
 of a Governor, a Legislative Council, and a House 
 of Assembly. Under the Franchise Act of 1884 
 the electorate has been expanded from 1,641 to 
 4,200 electors. Subject to the Governor's veto, 
 all power over legislation and finance rests with the 
 Assembly. The very able Chief Justice of 
 Barbados, Sir George Beeves, himself a man of 
 colour, considers that in their present state of ad- 
 Opinionof vanccment sufficient self-government has been 
 EeeYes"^^* given to the people. He is equally convinced that 
 the autocratic system of a Crown colony, imchecked 
 by some form of popular representation, is detest- 
 able. The advancement of the British colonies in 
 the West Indies has been largely promoted by the 
 free constitution of the local government and by 
 the freedom of commerce. 
 An outlet Por the employment of British capital the 
 
 for Britieh . n • ■ 
 
 capital West Indies offer a field, productive indeed, but 
 limited in extent. Success will necessarily, and in 
 all cases, depend on the local management. Un- 
 counted millions of capital have been raised in the 
 central money-market of London, only to be fooled 
 away in ill-conceived and misdirected enterprises 
 
A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 217 
 
 abroad, in localities too remote to be visited by 
 shareholders, or even by boards of directors, often 
 composed of unpractised and unpractical men. 
 Allusion has already been made to the evils of 
 absentee ownership in Jamaica. It is useless to 
 pour capital into these islands unless competent 
 and vigorous local management has been previously 
 secured. The West Indies afford excellent oppor- Field for 
 tunities for young and enterprising men with a Is banters 
 small capital at their command, who would be 
 prepared, after sufficient local experience had been 
 gained, to undertake the business of the planter. 
 There is much to encourage in the success which 
 has attended private enterprise in the French 
 West Indies, mainly in consequence of the peculiar 
 assiduity with which French proprietors attend to 
 their plantations. 
 
 As a field for colonisation by Europeans, and The West 
 more particularly by British settlers, the West fOTcoioni- 
 Indies cannot be recommended. On the loftiest ^^'^°" 
 slopes of the Blue Mountains of Jamaica a limited 
 area may perhaps be found where a northern race 
 might enjoy a suitable climate. In the low lands 
 near the sea, the white man could not live and 
 v\rork. In the high lands of the interior, working 
 in the morning and evening, he could easily ac- 
 complish seven hours a day of hard labour. 
 Jamaica is an island in which the experiment of 
 colonisation for our surplus population might 
 safely be tried on a small scale. The promoters 
 of the railway now being constructed, partly on 
 
218 A TRIP TO THE WEST INDIES IN 1892 
 
 the land-grant scheme, would probably be glad to 
 co-operate in carrying out a project of the nature 
 indicated. In the Cayman Islands, with 4,322 
 inhabitants, two populations are to be seen side 
 by side. The white population numbers 1,602, the 
 coloured 1,728, and the black 992. The whites 
 have been settled more than a century, and have 
 been a thriving and vigorous people. It is an im- 
 portant fact to notice that a mixed or coloured 
 race cannot perpetuate itself. The children are 
 wanting in stamina and constitution. 
 
 Taking a broad view, these lovely islands are 
 only suited to a tropical race such as the negroes, 
 and for these they may be made an earthly para- 
 dise. Left to themselves, the people might 
 Progi-eBs of rapidly degenerate. Under British rule we may, 
 undCT*''^^^ in a not-distant future, confidently hope to see the 
 Britishruie ^lack population of our West Indian Islands living 
 in prosperous circumstances, with all the markets 
 of the world open to their useful products, good 
 customers to the , British manufacturer, bound to 
 the British Empire by the strongest ties of grati- 
 tude, and raised to a condition of enlightenment 
 and civilisation, only as yet attained by a few men 
 who have been greatly favoured. 
 
219 
 
 IX 
 
 A BUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Eepeintbd by permission feom the ' Nineteenth Cbntuky,' 
 June 1894 
 
 Having had the honour of being appointed to serve 
 on the Opium Commission, it was finally decided 
 to go out to Calcutta in the ' Sunbeam.' Sailing Leave 
 from Portsmouth on the 22nd, we reached Gibral- mouth 
 tar on September 30, Spezia on the 5th, and Port I g^beam ■ 
 Said on October 14. Of the total distance from Arrive at 
 England, 1,852 miles had been covered under sail 
 and 1,716 under steam. Leaving the ' Sunbeam ' 
 at Ismailia, it was a delightful interruption to a 
 long sea voyage to run up for a couple of days to 
 Cairo. A page from my diary may be appropriately 
 inserted : — 
 
 October 16. — On the morning after our arrival 
 we drove out to the Great Pyramid, and ascended The Great 
 its steep and broken steps, as much impeded as y*™'^ 
 assisted by swarms of Arabs, with insatiable appe- 
 tite for backsheesh. Immensity of size and mar- 
 vellous accuracy of construction are obvious 
 features, which must deeply impress every traveller. 
 Arrived at the summit, the view was most beau- 
 
220 A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 tiful. The delta, a vast plain of luxuriant fertility, 
 walled in by hills of burning sand and dazzling 
 limestone, lay stretched at our feet. The over- 
 flowing waters of the Nile formed an endless chain 
 of lakes, bordered by green groves, fresh pastures, 
 and growing crops. 
 Our posi- To govern Egypt under present conditions is 
 
 Egypt no light task. In all the circumstances, a per- 
 manent British occupation is perhaps the only 
 possible alternative. Egypt could not stand alone. 
 If European control were withdrawn, the corrup- 
 tion, oppression, and incapacity of old days would 
 promptly reappear. When we interfered to suppress 
 the rebellion of Arabi, France was invited to act 
 with us. The Government assented, but the 
 Chamber refused to vote the necessary supplies. 
 We decided to proceed single-handed, although 
 our material interest in averting a repudiation of 
 debt by a successful insurrection was far less con- 
 siderable than that of France. From the point of 
 view of British interests, strictly and exclusively 
 regarded, the position we hold in Egypt would be 
 absolutely valueless unless we had a naval supre- 
 macy in the Mediterranean. Having the command 
 of the sea, we could prevent the occupation of 
 Egypt by any rival power, and our highway to the 
 East would be guarded by the fleet. Without that 
 command, our few regiments in Egypt would be 
 a force in the air, as helpless as Napoleon's army 
 after the defeat of his fleet by Nelson at the battle 
 of the Nile. 
 
A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 221 
 
 Leaving Suez on the 18th, we arrived at Aden Leave Suez 
 on October 27. In the northern part of the Eed at Aden 
 Sea we experienced dehghtful weather, smooth 
 seas, favotirable breezes, and no excessive heat. 
 When the northerly winds died away, the condi- 
 tions were less propitious. Under the combined 
 effects of the sun and the stoke-hole the tempera- 
 ture in the cabins gradually rose and remained at 
 93° for several days. 
 
 In the Eed Sea the assistance afforded to the 
 mariner is by no means equal to the requirements 
 of an active and enormously valuable trade. Two 
 or three additional lights, in well-selected positions, Additional 
 would greatly facilitate navigation in the southern the Red 
 part of the Eed Sea. The shipowners interested °* 
 should move the Board of Trade to take the neces- 
 sary action. It has been proposed to establish a 
 light on Cape Guardafui. It has been objected 
 that a dense mist hangs about the land during the 
 south-west monsoon. If the position on Cape 
 Guardafui is considered unsuitable, it is the more 
 necessary that a light should be placed on the 
 south-westernmost island of the Socotra group. 
 All steamers proceeding from Aden to Colombo 
 and the Far East steer close along its southern 
 shore. 
 
 During the last three days of the passage to 
 Aden, we were delayed by a south-east wind, some- 
 times blowing with the force of a gale. By 
 navigating close in with the African shore, as 
 recommended in the sailing directions, we kept in 
 
222 A BUN TO THE EAST IK 1893-94 
 
 smooth water. Between Suez and Aden we 
 covered 467 miles under sail, and 992 under 
 steam. 
 
 Leare We Sailed from Aden at sunset on October 28. 
 
 Aden q^ Socotra, at dawn on November 1, the P. and 
 
 0. steamer ' Oceana ' passed, about five miles to 
 windward, going east. My son and his wife were 
 among the passengers. A week later, just before 
 rounding the island of Minikoi, green and refreshing 
 with its grove of cocoa-nuts, another P. and 0. 
 steamer, the ' Kaiser-i-Hind,' steamed by, having 
 on board two members of the Opium Commission. 
 
 Arrive at Qn November 10 the ' Sunbeam ' reached Colombo. 
 
 Colombo. ^ . 
 
 Go on Here I transferred myself, not without reluctance, 
 'Kaiser-i- to the ' Kaiser-i-Hind.' The ' Sunbeam,' following 
 ■^'"^ ' close behind, arrived at the Sand Heads on Novem- 
 ber 17, having covered a total distance from Aden 
 of 787 miles under sail, 325 under steam and sail, 
 and 2,442 under steam. 
 
 Passing to the concluding stage of the voyage 
 Madras to Calcutta, we landed at Madras. In common 
 with the other Presidency towns, it boasts of 
 public buildings, creditable in their architecture, 
 and of lordly dimensions. The native town seemed 
 mean and miserable. We saw it under the dis- 
 advantageous conditions created by a remorseless 
 downpour of tropical rain. The change of climate 
 as we steamed northward from Madras was most 
 agreeable. The sky was cloudless, and the heat 
 was tempered by a cool breeze from the north- 
 east. We reached the Sand Heads at 10 p.m., and 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 223 
 
 ascended under the charge of a pilot as far as 
 Saugar, where we anchored for the night. 
 
 Starting a Httle before noon on November 18, 
 six hours' steaming on a rising tide brought us to An-ive at 
 
 Calcutta 
 
 Calcutta. The navigation of the Hooghly is difficult 
 and sometimes dangerous. The shoals are con- 
 stantly shifting, and the tides are strong. The 
 banks of the river are flat, and rise but a few feet 
 above high-water mark. The delta of the Ganges 
 is rich and highly cultivated. At this season of 
 the year the fields are green with crops, soon to 
 ripen for the early harvest. The villages are 
 numberless. Everywhere the country is well 
 wooded. To eyes which for weeks had rested on 
 nothing but the waste of waters the scene was 
 pleasant and refreshing. 
 
 Our life in Calcutta was most fully occupied. Occupation 
 The days began, shortly after sunrise, with a gallop 
 on the Maidan. The Opium Commission sat, 
 with few interruptions, from half-past ten some- 
 times until late in the afternoon. A walk or an 
 occasional game at lawn-tennis was generally ac- 
 complished in the charming hour before sunset. 
 The evenings were given to society. 
 
 Having gone to Calcutta on a mission which, 
 though undertaken at the wish of the Government 
 of India, was sure to be the subject of criticism, it 
 seemed the more a duty to respond to calls on 
 behalf of public objects lying outside the scope of 
 our immediate work. I joined an international Ships and 
 Shipmasters' Club, and had the advantage of 
 
224 
 
 A BUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Tlio 
 Hooglily 
 
 Calcutta. 
 The town 
 and resi- 
 dences 
 
 meeting a number of shipmasters on several occa- 
 sions, for the discussion of matters relating to ships 
 and sailors. The seamen visiting Calcutta are of 
 unequal quality. Many are ruined in this port. 
 The conduct of others is beyond reproach. The 
 long-voyage trades are trying alike to the seamen 
 and to their ofhcers. The social privations are the 
 most serious hardship. Many men may be absent 
 from home for two years continuously. Such a 
 life is suitable only on first going to sea. 
 
 After spending ten days with the acting Lieu- 
 tenant-Governor of Bengal, at Belvedere, we re- 
 turned for a fortnight to the ' Sunbeam.' The 
 anchorage in the Hooghly is bright and breezy. 
 The perpetual movements of native boats make 
 the river an animated scene. On leaving the 
 ' Sunbeam ' we spent eight days at Darjeeling. 
 Eeturning to Calcutta, we were guests for more 
 than a week at Government House. ' 
 
 And now it is time to say something of Cal- 
 cutta. It stands on the right bank of the Hooghly, 
 whose broad stream is the centre and the source of 
 the commerce of this busy seaport. The wide 
 esplanade known as Garden Reach extends some 
 four miles below the city. Here may always be 
 seen a noble fleet of sailing-ships, moored in tiers, 
 four deep. Garden Eeach forms the river front of 
 the green and well-wooded Maidan, or park of 
 Calcutta, which in extent exceeds all the parks of 
 London thrown together. In its centre is Fort 
 Wilham, a strong fortress and the official seat of 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 225 
 
 Government. On the side remote from the river 
 the Maidan is bounded by the Chowringhee road. 
 This handsome esplanade and the streets leading 
 to it form the residential quarter of Calcutta for 
 Europeans. The houses are large, many being 
 occupied as flats, or shared between tv^^o occupants. 
 They stand vi'idely apart, in pleasant gardens. The 
 cathedral is a principal architectural feature. Its 
 services are largely attended. 
 
 The business centre of Calcutta divides the 
 Maidan from the native quarter. Here are found 
 the offices of the central and presidential Govern- Public 
 ments, the lavsr courts, the fine city hall, the post "' '"^' 
 office, with its noble Corinthian colonnade and 
 lofty dome, the spacious counting-houses of the 
 leading banks, and many shops, not rivalled in any 
 provincial city at home. 
 
 Government House, with its perfectly kept Govem- 
 garden, would command admiration in any capital House 
 in Europe. The interior contains a suite of halls 
 and rooms for state reception. The ball-room, 
 adorned by a colonnade of pure white pillars, 
 slightly relieved by gilding, is not overcrowded 
 when fifteen hundred guests are assembled. As 
 the seat of the Central Government and of the 
 Government of the largest Presidency, the head- 
 quarters for the superior courts, and a great trading 
 emporium, a large and agreeable social world is 
 gathered at Calcutta. 
 
 Our trip to Darjeeling maybe briefly described. Trip to 
 This most beautiful of hill stations is the centre of ^'""^i^'^^s 
 VOL. II. Q, 
 
226 
 
 A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Bailway 
 ascent of 
 the 
 Himalayas 
 
 Scenery 
 from the 
 line 
 
 the noblest mountain scenery of the world. A 
 journey of some sixteen hours by railway, over the 
 delta of the Ganges and across the widest mouth 
 of the river, carries the traveller to the foot of the 
 Himalayas. With the earliest dawn some snow- 
 clad peaks were visible. At Siliguri there is a 
 break of gauge, and travellers are transferred to 
 the Darjeeling Himalayan railway. The line, 
 which is laid on the finely engineered hill cart- 
 road previously in existence, has a two-foot gauge. 
 Inclines of one in twenty-eight are ascended 
 without difficulty, and the trains wind round the 
 sharpest curves with perfect safety. The speed is 
 nearly twelve miles, and the ascent is made at the 
 rate of a thousand feet an hour. The physical 
 difficulties have taxed to the uttermost the re- 
 sources of the engineer. The climbing is con- 
 tinuous, here by convolutions as of the corkscrew, 
 there by zigzags, sometimes by holding on as long 
 as possible to the sky-line of some sharp and pre- 
 cipitous buttress of the great chain into the heart 
 of which we were penetrating. The views from 
 the railroad are beyond all my powers of descrip- 
 tion. At the commencement of the ascent the 
 line passes through the dense jungle of the Terai, 
 the haunt of the tiger and the wild elephant. Eising 
 above the jungle, a region is gained where the tea- 
 plant flourishes, and here, far as the eye can reach, 
 clearing after clearing can be seen, each with its 
 homestead of white buildings, the residences of the 
 European managers, and the sheds in which the 
 
A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 227 
 
 tea is prepared for market. The prospect varies 
 at every instant, embracing at one turn of the road 
 the snow-clad range forming the topmost crest of 
 the Himalayas, at the next some thickly wooded 
 gorge, down which, three thousand feet below, a 
 silvery mountain stream can be traced, until it 
 flows out into the mist-covered plain. 
 
 The change from the temperature of Calcutta change of 
 to that of a frosty English December, without tu™^^"^*" 
 Enghsh appliances for resisting cold, was most 
 sudden, and at first rather trying. 
 
 Darjeeling is a scattered settlement, houses Darjeeiing. 
 having been built wherever space could be found, settlement 
 The shoulder of rock on which Darjeeling stands 
 forms the termination of a gigantic spur, thrust 
 out from the main chain of the Himalayas, first in 
 a southerly direction, then recurving eastwards, 
 and finally bending northwards. The settlement 
 is hemmed in on the north, the east, and the west 
 by the deep glens of the Eamam and Bangut rivers. 
 Looking from Darjeeling northwards, across the 
 deep glen of the Eangiit, the Himalayas are seen 
 in all their magnificence. The peak of Kinchin- Peak of 
 junga, more than 28,000 feet in height, is the junga"" 
 central feature. As the crow flies it is forty miles 
 distant, though in this clear atmosphere it appears 
 much nearer. Kinchinjunga is the highest point 
 of a splendid pyramidal group, rising gradually up, 
 ridge upon ridge and peak above peak, in forms as 
 varied as they are beautiful. This noble mountain 
 mass is detached from the main dorsal chain of 
 
 a 2 
 
228 
 
 A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Christmas 
 Day in 
 Calcutta 
 
 Our posi- 
 tion in 
 India 
 
 the Himalayas. The highest ridges can be traced 
 round Kinchinjunga, from Mount Everest on the 
 west to the mountains of Thibet on the east. 
 Eastward numberless spires and buttresses are 
 seen descending into the plains of Bengal from the 
 main range, through Sikkim and far away into 
 Assam, with graceful yet sharply defined sky-lines. 
 Looking west the view is cut short by the great 
 spur on which Darjeeling itself stands. The deep 
 valleys and richly wooded slopes are as the fore- 
 grornid in a scene of indescribable grandeur and 
 beauty. 
 
 Beturning to life in Calcutta, on Christmas 
 Day great efforts were made on board the ships in 
 the harbour to observe the season by suitable 
 decoration. Admiral Kennedy, the commander-in- 
 chief on the East India station, with his flag-ship, 
 the ' Boadicea,' the cruiser ' Brisk,' and the gun- 
 vessel ' Redbreast,' made a brave show. On the 
 ' Sunbeam ' the bulwarks were hung with festoons 
 of tropical fohage, while the words ' Wishing all a 
 Happy Christmas ' were spelt in bamboo letters 
 covered with green leaves, hung from the covering 
 board to near the water-line. 
 
 We heard much serious talk at Calcutta of the 
 general unrest which is observable throughout the 
 country. Any government by conquerors differing 
 in race, language, faith, and social customs from 
 the people under their rule must necessarily be 
 more or less misympathetic. The sharp lessons of 
 the Mutiny have faded from the memories of the 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 229 
 
 present generation. Still less is there any recol- 
 lection or even tradition of the misgovernment 
 which prevailed under the native rulers v^^hom we 
 have displaced. Our difficulties in India can never 
 be altogether overcome. They have been intensi- 
 fied in later years by the spread of education, and Spread of 
 by the ever-increasing number of natives of Bengal among the 
 who have shown an extraordinary aptitude for °°'*'™^ 
 acquiring that kind of knowledge which secures 
 success in competitive examinations. The sole 
 aim of every educated native is to obtain, first, 
 employment, and then promotion in the Govern- 
 ment service. Candidates are more numerous 
 than places, and the rejected and disappointed are 
 busy in fostering discontent. England should 
 maintain in India a rule of unfaltering justice, sup- 
 ported, and that not inadequately, by a powerful 
 army of British troops, with such auxiliaries as 
 can be trusted with the confidence we give to our 
 Sikhs and Ghoorkas. 
 
 The aspirations of competent natives to share Share of 
 in the Government should by no means be denied, the govem- 
 We have already given them high offices on the 
 judicial bench. They are largely employed in the 
 Civil Service, and we are bound to advance them 
 gradually to higher positions than they have yet 
 filled. All this we may do ; but we shall commit 
 a fatal error if we look to maintain our military 
 hold over the country by any other forces than 
 those recruited in Great Britain. 
 
 New Year's Day was filled with engagements 
 
 ment 
 
230 A EUK TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 New Year's for every hour. We went early in the Viceregal 
 tivJie? cortege to the Maidan for the annual parade, when 
 the assumption of the title of Empress of India 
 by the Queen is celebrated. All the available 
 forces are brought together on the occasion to fire 
 &feu de joie, to give three cheers for the Queen, 
 and to march past the Viceroy. The total strength 
 was over 4,000 men. The marching of the British 
 regiments and of the field battery was exceptionally 
 good. 
 
 At midday we went to the Sailors' Home, 
 where a dinner of good Christmas fare was pro- 
 vided by public subscription for the European 
 sailors then in port. Covers were laid for 924 
 men. The forenoon had been occupied with 
 athletic sports, the various contests being open to 
 all comers of the seafaring class. In the long 
 jump, and in putting the shot, two of our ' Sun- 
 beams ' gained the first prize. Another man was 
 second for the obstacle race, and eight of our men 
 won the tug of War. We did much better than 
 any other ship in port. In the evening a State 
 banquet of eighty covers was given at Government 
 House, 
 start for At 10 P.M. wc started for Patna in the special 
 
 by rail train prepared for the Commission. We were 
 distributed in some fourteen carriages, each car- 
 riage being divided into two compartments, each 
 compartment holding two travellers. The party 
 includes the nine Commissioners and a few rela- 
 tives and friends. In addition, there is the staff 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 231 
 
 of shorthand writers and nearly 150 native 
 servants. 
 
 January 3. — Eeached Patna and detrained at Arrive at 
 10 A.M. A camp consisting of tents lent by the 
 Viceroy was pitched for our use in a field in the 
 European cantonment. The encampment included 0"i' ^^- 
 
 ... campmeiit 
 
 a large tent for meals and another for the sittings 
 of the Commission. Our own tent, as an acknow- 
 ledgment of the responsibilities of the Chairman, 
 was placed at the end of two long lines, formed 
 by the eighteen tents appropriated to the other 
 members of the Commission, the secretaries, 
 shorthand staff, caterers, and European servants. 
 The scene was made gay with flowers. The next 
 three days were fully employed in the sittings of 
 the Commission. 
 
 January 5.— Visited the opium factory. It is The opium 
 not necessary to describe the process by which 
 the drug that has filled so large a space in our 
 recent deliberations is prepared. In the final 
 stage the Government opium takes the shape of a 
 cannon-ball. The quantity in store at Patna not 
 rarely exceeds 1,000,000Z. in value. In contrast 
 with this accumulation of valuable property, it is 
 interesting to note the low scale of pay for the 
 employes of the factory. We were told that the 
 native foreman — the head man in an establishment 
 where some 1,500 hands are employed — receives 
 eleven rupees a month, the rupee at the present Wages of 
 rate of exchange being worth Is. 4,d. The wages the esta- 
 for the working hands range from a penny a day '^ '"^" 
 
232 
 
 A KUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Dwellings 
 and food 
 
 Proceed to 
 Benares 
 
 Troops at 
 the statioii 
 
 for children to fourpence, as a maximum, for men. 
 The wages of agricultural labourers in this part of 
 India do not exceed two annas, or a little more 
 than twopence a day. Even in the neighbourhood 
 of Calcutta, at the large and admirably equipped 
 Canning jute mills, which we visited, and where 
 from three to four thousand hands are employed, 
 the wages range from twopence to fourpence a 
 day. We are told that the natives are able to hve, 
 according to their mode of existence, on this 
 miserable poor pay. Every member of a family 
 earns wages and contributes to the common fund. 
 Many of the cultivators possess a little patch of 
 their own. Their dwellings are of the most rudi- 
 mentary description, consisting of the tiniest huts, 
 made of bamboo and matting. They have little 
 need of fuel. Their clothing consists entirely of 
 cotton cloth. Their food is millet, their drink 
 water. 
 
 January 6. — Proceeded in the night tc Be- 
 nares. Here we were encamped in the com- 
 pound attached to a small palace belonging to the 
 Maharaja. The European cantonment occupies 
 a considerable space of undulating and park-like 
 ground, well planted with trees in groups. The 
 drought had been of long continuance, but the 
 grass was not yet burnt up. Adjoining the civil 
 cantonment are the barracks for European troops, 
 now occupied by a detachment of the Northum- 
 berland Fusiliers. The men seemed in fine health. 
 They have a splendid expanse of grass for cricket 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 233 
 
 and football. It was a short walk of half a mile 
 from the Em-opean barracks to the quarters occu- 
 pied by the 5th Bengal Light Infantry. These 
 native soldiers are fine fellows physically, good at 
 drill, and better shots than our own men. If we 
 may trust their fidelity, they are a valuable sup- 
 port to the British force in India. It has been 
 decided lately to keep the native regiments homo- 
 geneous, as far as possible, as to race and caste. 
 It is believed that each corps will be smarter and 
 more efficient on this system. The obvious disad- 
 vantage is that a spirit of discontent, should it 
 arise, would spread more quickly through a regi- 
 ment. 
 
 We remained at Benares from the morning of 
 the 7th until 10 P.M. on the 9th. At dawn the 
 following morning we reached Lucknow. It is Go on to 
 
 T ill cTtTi n w 
 
 far the most attractive of all the places we have 
 visited since leaving Calcutta. The European TheEuro- 
 
 , J 1 j_ . n ■ n pean can- 
 
 cantonment covers a large space, traversed m all tonment 
 directions by broad and well-kept roads and fine 
 avenues. The river Gumti is a most attractive 
 feature. A considerable part of the adjoining 
 open ground has been laid out with great taste as 
 a park and garden. 
 
 As the old capital of the kings of Oudh, Luck- 
 now contains many fine examples of Indian archi- 
 tecture, which it is unnecessary to enumerate or 
 describe. The Eesidency, now in ruins, is the TheBesi- 
 centre of interest. It occupies hilly ground of during the 
 small elevation, and may be nearly two miles in Mutiny 
 
234 
 
 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Memorial 
 to Sir 
 Henry 
 Lawrence 
 
 circuit. When the mutiny broke out, our garri- 
 son consisted of the British 23rd Eegiment, with 
 some artillery and nearly a hundred officers from 
 the native regiments which had mutinied at 
 Cawnpore. The weakest places in the defence 
 had been palisaded, and the garrison was well 
 provisioned. This handful of less than a thou- 
 sand fighting men was besieged by 60,000 rebels. 
 The fire of their heavy guns never ceased, and 
 assaults were delivered almost daily. The Resi- 
 dency was invested in July, and the first relief, 
 under Havelock, did not arrive until September. 
 In the interval, of a total number of 2,994 persons, 
 scarcely one thousand had survived. The gallant 
 resistance was carried on under great disadvan- 
 tages to the besieged. They were completely 
 surrounded by the native town, which afforded 
 cover to the assailants close up to the lines of 
 defence. 
 
 War gives opportunities for the noblest deeds 
 of heroism, patriotism, and self-sacrifice. Never 
 were those great qualities more signally displayed 
 than in the defence and relief of Lucknow. On 
 the tomb of Sir Henry Lawrence is inscribed an 
 epitaph which is equally appropriate to every man 
 who fought and fell at Lucknow : — 
 
 HERE LIES 
 
 HENEY LAWEENCE, 
 
 WHO TRIED TO DO HIS DUTY. 
 
 May the Lord have mercy on his soul 
 
A RUK TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 235 
 
 January 15, 16, and 17. — These days were 
 spent in camp at Umballah, the work of the work at 
 Commission occupjdng the greater part of our U'"!'*^!'^'^ 
 daylight hours. The testimony of representatives 
 of the native States against any change in the 
 present poHcy in relation to opium was the leading 
 feature in the evidence taken. 
 
 Had an interview with the Maharaja of the TheMaha- 
 State of Nabha, a fine old chieftain, who arrived ™^^ ^'^'"^'■ 
 in camp with a military escort, to pay a visit to 
 Sir James Lyell. In the course of our conversa- 
 tion the Maharaja remarked that the population 
 in these districts is rapidly increasing beyond the 
 means of maintaining them, and that a war was 
 needed to reduce the numbers. He condemned 
 the use of opium. Many of the witnesses before 
 the Commission were Sikhs, who, in common 
 vdth all the races inhabiting the Punjab, present 
 a striking contrast to the Bengalis in physical 
 strength and manly bearing. 
 
 From Umballah we proceeded to Lahore, and Lahore and 
 from Lahore to Delhi, arriving on the morning of 
 January 23. Every day was fully occupied in 
 taking evidence on the opium question. The Evidence 
 work on which we were engaged had the irksome- natives on 
 ness of monotony, and constant repetition of the *„gg°|f™ 
 same arguments, the same opinions, and the same 
 statistics, whether for or against opium. But 
 there was much of interest in the witnesses them- 
 selves. The extensive knowledge of English 
 among the natives of India is quite remarkable. 
 
troops 
 
 236 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Many appeared before us, having no connection 
 with the pubHc service, who, in ready command of 
 our mother tongue, were fully equal to the best 
 educated Englishmen. They experienced abso- 
 lutely none of the difficulties which most of us 
 find when we endeavour to express our thoughts 
 in any other tongue than our own. They were 
 fluent to volubility, animated, argumentative, and 
 even eloquent. They were able to return fire 
 most effectively upon occasion, when placed under 
 the ordeal of cross-examination. 
 Native We saw a splendid Sikh regiment on parade 
 
 at Delhi. In physique and martial bearing the 
 men were equal to our Foot Guards. They are 
 drawn from a solid class of small yeomen-farmers. 
 The pay of a native infantry soldier is seven rupees 
 a month, and for this small sum he finds his pro- 
 visions and all his undress kit. The native army 
 is a marvellously cheap force, and their officers 
 believe that the men may be trusted to stand by 
 us as long as we are able to show a bold front to 
 the enemy. They feel the prestige which belongs 
 to a Government sustained, as ours has thus far 
 been, through every difficulty and trial which we 
 have had to encounter. None can say what the 
 native soldier might do in case of serious reverses. 
 He may help us to avert, he might not help us to 
 retrieve, disaster. 
 
 We found time in the early mornings and 
 afternoons to see the mosques, the forts, and the 
 palace, so justly renowned as the very finest 
 
A BUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 237 
 
 examples of Oriental architecture. Delhi presents 
 
 indications of present prosperity in the recent of Delhi 
 
 erection of a large flour mill, two cotton mills, 
 
 and malting kilns on a colossal scale. 
 
 Leaving Delhi on the evening of the 24th, the 
 „ „ • • • . » Go on to 
 
 following morning we were m camp at Agra. Agra 
 
 Here, as elsewhere, the best hours of the day were 
 occupied with the business of the Commission, 
 the hearing of witnesses being conducted in a 
 large tent. We paid an almost daily visit to the 
 Taj and fort. An afternoon was given to a walk 
 to Abkar's tomb, about five and a half miles from 
 Agra. In some hasty notes of a former journey I 
 joined in paying the universal tribute of admira- g^^^^. ^^ 
 tion to the beauties of the Taj. In the present the Taj 
 visit we saw it in all its phases, at the hour before 
 sunset, in the full blaze of noonday, and by moon- 
 light. The green garden, admirably planted, and 
 watered from many fountains, adds greatly to the 
 architectural effect. Its fresh verdure contrasts 
 admirably with the pearly whiteness of the temple. 
 It is impossible to describe the impression created 
 by this unrivalled combination of many beautiful 
 things, including the Taj itself, a central object of 
 supreme loveliness — the grand entrance gateway, 
 the garden, the pavilions, about midway down on 
 either side, the platform with its four graceful 
 minarets, so perfect in its proportions, forming a 
 substructure for the principal building, the two 
 fine mosques by which the Taj is flanked, and, 
 beyond all this wealth of art, the broad waters of 
 
238 
 
 A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 The fort at 
 Agra 
 
 The Muti 
 Musjid 
 
 Tomb of 
 Akbar 
 
 Jeypore 
 
 the Jumna and the not distant view of the fort 
 and palace of Agra. 
 
 The extensive fort at Agra, situated in a com- 
 manding position on the banks of the river, is not 
 inferior to the noble structure of Delhi. The 
 material employed is a richly coloured red sand- 
 stone. The gateway is of fine proportions, with 
 beautiful ornamentation, especially on the inside. 
 Within the fort is the fine mosque known as the 
 Muti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, erected by Shah 
 Jehan, and rightly named from the pure white 
 marble of which it is built. In the adjacent 
 palace, though it has been much injured, the 
 magnificent marble pavilions overlooking the river 
 still remain in perfect preservation. 
 
 The tomb of Akbar, at Secundra, receives con- 
 siderable notice in Fergusson's admirable work on 
 the architecture of the East. The main building 
 is surrounded by a large garden, the entrance to 
 which is through a grand gateway. To eyes that 
 have been feasting on the Taj and the fort at Agra, 
 the main building at Secundra is comparatively 
 uninteresting. 
 
 We moved from Agra to Jeypore in the night 
 of January 28-29. During our day at Jeypore we 
 were the guests of the Eesident, Colonel Peacock. 
 His house is quite charming, and the hospitality 
 offered to the members of the Opium Commission 
 was most kind. The afternoon was spent in 
 taking evidence. We sat in a large and graceful 
 building, recently erected in the native style from 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 239 
 
 the design of Colonel S. S. Jacob, who, beyond 
 his wide repute as an architect, is even more 
 justly esteemed as engineer of the irrigation works 
 which have converted whole tracts of desert into 
 fruitful fields. 
 
 The evidence given by the prime minister at Evidence 
 Jeypore was the feature of the afternoon. The MinSter of 
 minister, who spoke English with extraordinary Jeypore 
 fluency, came here originally as the head of the 
 College. From a pedagogue he has become an 
 administrator of no mean ability. Under his care 
 the Maharajas, under whom he carries on the 
 government, have become men of large wealth. 
 The present ruler is said to have a hoard in cash 
 amounting to some millions sterling. The native 
 States have a certain advantage in being free from 
 the heavy demands made on British territories for 
 the remittance of local revenues, for the mainte- 
 nance of the army, and the expenses of the central 
 Government at Calcutta. 
 
 We arrived at Ajmere on the morning of Arrive at 
 January 30. The arrangements provided for a ■'™^^^ 
 stay of six and a half days, which were to be de- 
 voted to taking evidence from representatives of 
 the numerous small native States in Eajputana. 
 In this district the consumption of opium is con- 
 siderable, and the poppy cultivation for export 
 through Bombay to China is a valuable local re- 
 source. For obvious reasons the native States 
 would not welcome a policy of prohibition. 
 
 At Ajmere we were in a small oasis of British 
 
240 
 
 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Ajmere 
 
 The 
 Ardhai- 
 din-ka- 
 Jompra 
 
 Arrive at 
 Indore 
 
 Sittings of 
 the Com- 
 mission 
 
 territory attached to the Bombay Presidency. It 
 is a pleasant place surrounded by hills, affording a 
 great relief from the level monotony of the plains 
 of Bengal and the Punjab. The public gardens 
 are extensive. Our hall of audience vv^as on the 
 shores of the lake. The room vphere w^e held our 
 sittings opened on to a terrace, on v^^hich stand 
 two lovely white marble pavilions, dating from the 
 period of the Moguls. The ruined mosque at 
 Ajmere, known as the Ardhai-din-ka-Jompra, is a 
 building of the greatest beauty and interest. It 
 dates from 1200 a.d., and is a singular combination 
 of Hindu and Mohammedan art. A Jain temple 
 was appropriated by the Mohammedans and.faced 
 with a screen, which is one of the finest examples 
 of the Indian Saracenic architecture. 
 
 We arrived at Indore at an early hour on Feb- 
 ruary 6, and after breakfast drove to our encamp- 
 ment, pitched on an open space in front of the 
 British Residency. 
 
 Indore is the capital of the Maharaja Holkar. 
 The population of the State is nearly 7,000,000 ; 
 the city, which is a place of considerable trade in 
 the exportation of wheat and opium, has a popula- 
 tion of 100,000. 
 
 The sittings of our Commission were held on 
 the first day at the Residency, and on the follow- 
 ing day in the hall of the College. The attendance 
 was large, and the witnesses were more than ordi- 
 narily interesting. Colonel Eobertson, represent- 
 ing the Civil Service, was an, able exponent of the 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 241 
 
 objections to a policy of prohibition. Holkar's 
 prime minister, Eao Bahardar, a native gentleman, 
 formerly holding a legal appointment under the 
 Government of Bombay, exhibited an extraordi- 
 nary command of English and no mean knowledge 
 of the arts of statesmanship. From other inde- 
 pendent States we had numerous witnesses, many 
 of whom were curious sm-vivals from an age and 
 an order of things now rapidly passing away. 
 
 The city of Indore possesses some charming indore 
 gardens, extending along the banks of a small 
 river, the Sirsuti, which has been formed into a 
 chain of artificial lakes. We paid a visit to Holkar, 
 and received a return visit in our tent. The 
 Maharaja speaks English fluently, and shows a 
 considerable knowledge of affairs. 
 
 Erom Indore to Bombay the journey by rail By rail to 
 occupies twenty-four hours. The crossing of the """ °'^ 
 Nerbudda, and the rapid descent of 1,200 feet from 
 Mhow to Choral, are full of interest. Indian rail- 
 way carriages have at least the merit of being airy, 
 and the arrangements for refreshments are gene- 
 rally sufficient. 
 
 We arrived at Bombay at sunrise on February9. Arrive at 
 The Victoria Eailway Terminus is the finest build- ^""•'^y 
 ing of the city, and is not surpassed by anything 
 of the kind in London. The broad streets and 
 lofty, well-built houses would have been perfectly 
 in keeping in Paris. It was pleasant to find our- 
 selves once again in the perfect quiet of the ' Sun- 
 beam,' which had reached Bombay in excellent 
 VOL. II. B 
 
242 
 
 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Mobilisa- 
 tion and 
 man- 
 oeuvres of 
 the local 
 naval 
 forces 
 
 Public 
 buildings 
 of Bombay 
 
 order. After spending three days on board we 
 took up our quarters under the hospitable roof of 
 the Governor, with whom we remained nearly a 
 week. 
 
 Our stay at Bombay was well timed for seeing 
 a local effort in naval mobilisation. The two 
 torpedo gunboats and seven torpedo boats stationed 
 here for the defence of the harbour were mobilised 
 at twelve hours' notice, and proceeded to sea for 
 a week's cruise, manned partly by British blue- 
 jackets and partly by lascars of the Indian Marine. 
 On the return of the torpedo flotilla, two days 
 were given to an attack on Bombay from the sea. 
 The attacking force was represented by some 
 cruisers of Admiral Kennedy's squadron. The 
 resources of the defenders included the two turret- 
 vessels ' Cerberus ' and ' Magdala,' and the torpedo- 
 boats. The manoeuvres afforded an opportunity 
 for some smart evolutionary work by the torpedo 
 flotilla. It was satisfactory to see the turret-ships 
 under way, and the forces of the Boyal Navy and 
 Indian Marine brought together. 
 
 I will not attempt a description in detail of 
 things worth seeing in Bombay. The public 
 buildings on the esplanade facing the sea form 
 collectively a range of edifices symmetrical in 
 design, and in point of dimensions and architec- 
 tural merit not easily matched in any city in the 
 world. The Law Courts, the Secretariat, and the 
 University are nobly housed in these beautiful 
 structures. The style is an Orientalised Gothic. 
 
A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 243 
 
 The designs for the University buildings, includ- 
 ing a grand Gothic library and a clock-tower 260 
 feet high, are by Sir Gilbert Scott. The Secre- 
 tariat, a building nearly 450 feet long, is from 
 designs by Colonel Wilkins, E.E. The Law 
 Courts were designed and built by General Fuller, 
 E.E. The esplanade is adorned with fine statues 
 — of the Queen, by Noble, and of the Prince of 
 Wales, in bronze, by Boehm. Her Majesty is 
 seated on a throne, under a Gothic canopy of 
 exquisite design. 
 
 The Sailors' Home is a handsome building, The 
 
 Sailors' 
 
 designed by Mr. Stevens, A.C.E. The front has Home 
 a length of 270 feet ; the interior affords airy 
 accommodation. Every sailors' home is lacking 
 in the things which make a real home. The life 
 is that of a barrack, without privacy, without 
 womanly ministrations, and without the small 
 comforts which count for so much, and which it 
 is so impossible for superintendents and commit- 
 tees of management to provide. At the time of 
 our visit the Home was full of seamen of the 
 Eoyal Navy, who have been serving in the 
 ' Marathon ' or in a gunboat, and who were to be 
 relieved by new crews sent out in the ' Tyne.' 
 
 The Town Hall, one of the chief ornaments of The Town 
 Bombay, is on a large scale, 260 feet long by ^ 
 100 feet deep. The architecture is Doric. The 
 massive pillars of the colonnade forming the front 
 of the building were sent out from England. The 
 assembly-room, 100 feet square, contains a fine 
 
244 A Run to the east in 1893-94 
 
 organ, the gift of Sir Albert Sassoon. An adja- 
 cent suite of rooms contains the large and well- 
 selected library of the Asiatic Society. The vesti- 
 bule connecting the library with the great hall is 
 adorned with statues of Lord Blphinstone, Sir J. 
 Malcolm, and Sir Charles Forbes, all by Chantrey 
 and in his best manner. 
 
 The dock- The dockyard of Bombay dates from 1673. 
 
 ^^^^ It is now in the hands of the Government of India. 
 
 Fitted with a complete equipment of machinery, 
 and with a staff of English foremen, the resources 
 for the repair and maintenance of the navy are 
 the most complete in the East, and, of all our 
 stations abroad, are only exceeded by those of the 
 dockyard at Malta. Bombay may be regarded as 
 the head-quarters of the Indian Marine. All the 
 local transport duties of India are performed by 
 the ships of this highly efficient service. It would 
 be a great economy to the Indian Government if 
 the troopships were manned with native crews, 
 under European officers, and kept in repair at 
 Bombay. The running expenses would be con- 
 siderably reduced, while the Admiralty would 
 thus have a body of officers and men placed 
 at their disposal whose services are greatly 
 needed. 
 
 The The harbour of Bombay, the source of its 
 
 prosperity, is one of the most commodious in the 
 world. It has a length of twelve to fourteen 
 miles in a north and south direction, with an 
 average width of from four to six miles. An enor- 
 
 liarbour 
 
A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 245 
 
 mous trade is carried on, over-sea by steamers, and 
 coastwise in native dhows. The fortifications and 
 floating defences of the port have been greatly 
 strengthened of late years. A graving-dock for Want of a 
 ships of deep draught is still required to make the ing^ao^c™^ 
 port in all respects a station such as England ought 
 to possess in these seas. It has been computed that 
 Bombay has a seafaring population of 230,000. 
 It is also the Manchester of India. The cotton- Cotton- 
 spinning industry has been wonderfully developed industry of 
 of late years. It gives employment to 8,000 hands. Bombay 
 The tall chimneys of the mills can be traced along 
 the shore for a distance of many miles. The 
 British troops forming the garrison have their 
 quarters on the narrow spit, projecting two miles 
 to seaward, forming the Kolaba Point. The quar- 
 ters for the men and bungalows for the officers 
 would be delightful in a temperate climate. Here 
 is the beautiful Kolaba Church, filled with stained 
 windows, to the memory of many gallant men who 
 have died in India in the service of their country. 
 
 At Bombay the work of the Opium Commis- Compie- 
 sion in India was brought to a close. We spent of opium 
 several days in taking evidence, and finally devoted ^io™""^^" 
 some days to private conference, followed by a 
 meeting at which an opportunity was afforded, 
 both to the native members of the Commission 
 and to the representatives of the Anti-Opium 
 Association, for putting us in possession of their 
 views. The members of the Civil Service who 
 have been attached to the Commission have been 
 
246 
 
 A EUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Leave 
 Bombay 
 in tlie 
 ' Sunbeam ' 
 
 Arrive at 
 Aden and 
 transfer to 
 ' Hima- 
 laya ' 
 
 Arrive at 
 Malta. 
 Discus- 
 sions on 
 naval 
 matters 
 
 never-failing in consideration to us and in devo- 
 tion to their work. From all with whom we have 
 been brought in contact in India — high and low 
 —we have received unvarying kindness. 
 
 It only remains to bring the ' Sunbeam ' home 
 to her familiar anchorage in Cowes roads. The 
 passage from Bombay to Aden was made 
 when the north-east monsoon was no longer blow- 
 ing with the full force experienced in the cold 
 season of India. We sailed on Saturday, the 24th 
 of February, and arrived at Aden on March 7, 
 having covered 691 miles under sail and 890 miles 
 under steam. The best run under sail was made the 
 first day after leaving Bombay, distance 170 miles. 
 
 At Aden, in consequence of the receipt of a 
 distressful telegram, we transferred ourselves to 
 the P. and 0. steamship ' Himalaya. ' In this 
 noble vessel we maintained a steady average 
 speed of 415 knots a day. From Brindisi, 
 anxieties being relieved by the reassuring news 
 which we found awaiting us, I continued in the 
 ' Himalaya ' to Malta, to spend a few days at the 
 headquarters of our naval force in the Mediter- 
 ranean, pending the arrival of the ' Sunbeam.' 
 
 Many deeply interesting discussions were held 
 at Malta on the subjects with which we have to 
 deal in the preparation of the ' Naval .Ajinual.' 
 The relative value of monster, medium, and small 
 ships for the line-of-battle, the best types of 
 cruisers, dockyard administration, the manning 
 problem, and the maritime defence of the British 
 
A BUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 247 
 
 Empire and its principal trade routes, offered 
 themes of inexhaustible interest. The present 
 Mediterranean fleet shows a striking development 
 of naval force since 1862, vi^hen the present writer 
 first cruised in the Mediterranean. In types of 
 ships we have changed from the wooden three- 
 decker to the armoured and mastless ' Eamillies.' 
 In numbers we have expanded to a force of thirty- 
 one pendants, of which ten are flying on armoured 
 battle-ships of the first class. 
 
 On the 24th of March, two days after her arrival Leave 
 from Bombay, the ' Sunbeam ' sailed from Malta, > sunbeam ' 
 homeward bound. Favoured with fresh easterly 
 winds, from Cape Bon to Cape de Gata, we 
 reached Gibraltar on the 31st of March. The 
 distance from Malta was 662 miles under sail 
 and 376 miles under steam. 
 
 Gibraltar, so long the subject of abortive dis- Gibraltar, 
 cussions, both in and out of Parliament, is at last to its naval 
 
 resources 
 
 to be taken in hand and equipped with all the 
 resources necessary for a position of such import- 
 ance. The anchorage is to be protected by two 
 long moles from torpedo attack. A graving-dock 
 is to be constructed. The facilities for coaling 
 are to be adapted to the requirements of a large 
 fleet in time of war. The fortifications and their 
 armament do not at present call for the expendi- 
 ture of serious sums. 
 
 Sailing from Gibraltar on March 81, we made Leave 
 good progress until we arrived off Cape St. Mary, a northerly 
 Here we encountered the first gale which we h^d ^*'® 
 
248 
 
 A RUN TO THE EAST IN 1893-94 
 
 Put into 
 Lisbon 
 
 Proceed 
 and arrive 
 in Cowes 
 Boads 
 
 experienced since leaving England. It was from 
 the N.N.E. and therefore off shore ; yet it hlew 
 with such force that it was necessary to call all 
 hands and take in close reefs. In a few hours 
 the wind abated, and we proceeded under steam 
 and sail, working to windward, close under the 
 land. At 7 a.m. on April 2 we rounded St. Vincent. 
 At 2 A.M. on April 3 a very heavy sea began to 
 make from the north-west. At noon decided to 
 put into Lisbon. At 4 p.m. entered the Tagus. A 
 huge swell was rolling in upon the bar. The 
 next day, at 3 p.m., we once more put to sea, and 
 after a fine passage anchored in Cowes Eoads at 
 7 P.M. on Sunday, April 8. I conclude with the 
 following statistics, compiled from the log-book : — 
 
 Distances 
 
 Sail 
 
 steam 
 
 Sail and 
 Steam 
 
 Towed 
 
 England to Calcutta 
 Calcutta to Bombay 
 Bombay to Aden . 
 Aden to Malta . 
 Malta to Cowes . 
 
 Miles 
 3,106 
 
 721 
 430 
 893 
 
 Miles 
 4,257 
 
 890 
 1,939 
 1,116 
 
 Miles 
 325 
 
 400 
 
 Miles 
 
 50 
 
 2,152 
 
 5,150 
 
 8,902 
 
 725 
 
 2,202 
 
 
 Summary 
 
 
 Distances 
 run 
 
 Sail .... 
 
 Steam 
 
 Sail and steam 
 
 Towed 
 
 . 5,150 
 . 8,902 
 . 725 
 . 2,202 
 16,979 miles 
 
 The quantity of coal consumed has been three 
 hundred tons. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 SUMMABY OF VOYAGES COMPILED FBOM 
 LOBD BBASSEYS LOG BOOKS 
 
 Distances Sailed 
 
 Year 
 
 Knots 
 
 Year 
 
 Knots 
 
 Year 
 
 Knots 
 
 Year 
 
 Knots 
 
 1854 
 
 150 
 
 1864 
 
 1,000 
 
 1874 
 
 12,747 
 
 1884 
 
 3,087 
 
 1855 
 
 250 
 
 1865 
 
 2,626 
 
 1875 
 
 4,370 
 
 1885 
 
 6,344 
 
 1856 
 1857 
 
 2,000 
 1,500 
 
 1866 
 1867 
 
 4,400 
 3,000 
 
 1876]. 
 1877J 
 
 87,000 
 
 1886) 
 1887) 
 
 36,466 
 
 1858 
 
 2,500 
 
 1868 
 
 1,000 
 
 1878 
 
 9,038 
 
 1888 
 
 1,175 
 
 1859 
 
 2,300 
 
 1869 
 
 1,900 
 
 1879 
 
 5,627 
 
 1889 
 
 8,785 
 
 1860 
 
 1,000 
 
 1870 
 
 1,400 
 
 1880 
 
 3,415 
 
 1890 
 
 8,287 
 
 1861 
 
 800 
 
 1871 
 
 5,234 
 
 1881 
 
 5,485 
 
 1891 
 
 1,183 
 
 1862 
 
 3,200 
 
 1872 
 
 9,152 
 
 1882 
 
 3,345 
 
 1892 
 
 11,992 
 
 1863 
 
 900 
 
 1873 
 
 2,079 
 
 1883 
 
 18,545 
 
 1893-4jl9,804 
 
 Total, 1854 to 1894, 237,986 knots. 
 
 B 
 
 Voyages 
 
 12 Voyages to the Mediterranean. Furthest points, Constanti- 
 nople, 1874 and 1878 ; Cyprus, 1878 ; Egypt, 1882. 
 3 Circumnavigations of Great Britain. 
 
 1 Circumnavigation of Great Britain and the Shetlands, 1881. 
 
 2 Circumnavigations of Ireland. 
 
 3 Cruises with the fleets during manoeuvres, 1885, 1888, 1889. 
 
250 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 3 Voyages to Norway, 1856, 1874, and 1885 (with Mr. Glad- 
 stone). 
 
 2 Voyages to Holland, 1858, 1863. 
 
 1 Voyage round the World, 1876-77. 
 
 1 Voyage to India, Straits Settlements, Australia, Cape of Good 
 Hope, 1886-87. 
 
 1 Voyage to the West Indies, 1883. 
 
 1 Voyage to the West Indies and the United States, 1892. 
 
 1 Voyage to Canada and United States, 1872. 
 
 1 Voyage to the Baltic, 1860. 
 
 1 Cruise of Lord Tennyson, 1889. 
 
 1 Voyage to Calcutta and Bombay, 1893-94. 
 
 Year ' 
 
 Yachts 
 
 Tonnage 
 
 ; 16.54 
 
 Spray of the Ocean 
 
 8 
 
 1856-58 
 
 Cymba 
 
 50 
 
 1859-60 
 
 Albatross 
 
 118 
 
 1863-71 
 
 Meteor 
 
 164 
 
 1871-72 
 
 Muriel 
 
 60 
 
 1872 
 
 Bothen 
 
 340 
 
 ! 1874-91 
 
 Sunbeam 
 
 532 
 
 1882-83 
 
 Norman 
 
 40 
 
 1891 
 
 Lorna 
 
 90 
 
 1892 
 
 Zarita 
 
 65 
 
 1894 
 
 Dragon 
 
 20 
 
 Year 
 
 1855 
 1863 
 1873 
 
 Yachts Hired 
 
 Tonnage 
 
 Zillah 
 Eulalie 
 Livonia 
 
 20 
 
 18 
 
 240 
 
INDEX 
 
 Aaiesund, i. 50 
 
 Abdallah, Moslem chief, i. 7 
 
 Abd-el-Kader, Arab chieftain, and 
 the French invasion of Algeria, 
 i. 15-17 
 
 Aberdeen, the Earl and Countess 
 of, at Kandy, i. 298 
 
 Abigail, Hon. F., at Hawkesbury 
 Eiver Picnic, ii. 79 
 
 Abkar's tomb, at Secundra, ii. 237, 
 238 
 
 Abu Ail, i. 256 
 
 Adam's Bridge, Ceylon, projected 
 railway across, i. 300 
 
 Adam's Peak, Buddhist tradition 
 concerning, i. 296 
 
 Adelaide, ii. 1 ; site and description 
 of the city, 4, 81 ; horse-racing 
 at, 5 ; botanical gardens, 5 ; 
 zeal of its Press, 5 ; Jubilee 
 Exhibition and other public 
 buildings, 12, 18, 17, 20, 77; 
 Eoyal Geographical Society and 
 Chamber of Commerce, 13-16, 
 20-28; theatrical performance, 
 18 ; divine service, 18 ; educa- 
 tion at, 31, 32; cottages, 32; 
 railway communication with 
 Melbourne, 41 
 
 Adelaide, Port, ii. 3 ; visit to, 17 ; 
 harbour and docks, 17 ; corn 
 mill at, 17, 18 ; sailors' home, 18 
 
 Aden, voyages to and calls at, i. 61, 
 64, 257, ii. 221, 222, 246 ; har- 
 bour, i. 257 ; strategical import- 
 ance, 258 
 
 ' Adventure,' its surveys, i. 148 
 
 Affridis force at Kyber, i. 264 
 
 Afghan War, its moral effect on 
 India, i. 265 
 
 Afghanistan, trade and other rela- 
 tions with British India, i. 264, 
 266 ; Sir Devas Sing's views 
 regarding British policy in, 278 
 
 Agha ( = native Arab chief), i. 26 
 
 Agnew, Vans, tomb of, at Mooltan, 
 i. 263 
 
 Agra, visit to, i. 259 ; the Tdj 
 Mahal and fort, 276, ii. 237, 238 ; 
 British troops at, i. 276 ; its 
 prison, 277 ; mosque, ii. 238 
 
 Ajmere, Opium Commissioners at, 
 ii. 239; situation of the town, 
 239, 240 ; ruined mosque and 
 Jain temple, 240 
 
 ' Alabama ' claims, i. 247 
 
 Albany ( = King George's Sound), 
 as a port, i. 335 ; qommuriiqa- 
 
252 
 
 INDEX 
 
 tions, 335, 386 ; description of 
 the town, 336 ; excursion from, 
 to a forest of eucalyptus, 336- 
 339 ; departure from, ii. 1 
 
 Albany Islands, ii. 139, 140 
 
 Albany Pass, ii. 139 
 
 Albany, Port, ii. 139, 140 
 
 Albatross in flight, i. 332 
 
 'Albatross,' German gun- vessel, at 
 Balmain, ii. 84 
 
 Alexandria, i. 62, 64 
 
 Algeria, a trip to, in 1862, i. 1 ; 
 reasons for selecting Algeria 
 as a subject, 2, 3 ; geography, 
 3 ; its mountains, 4 ; climate, 
 4 ; fertility of soil of the 
 northern region : future as a 
 corn-producing country, 4-6 ; 
 summary of its yields through- 
 out the year, 5 ; the south an 
 arid waste, 5 ; its rivers and 
 springs, 5 ; early history, 6 ; 
 Moslem invasion of, 6 ; resisted 
 by Moors, 7 ; its capital the 
 ' kingdom ' of pirates, 7, 8 ; atro- 
 cities on Christians by Alge- 
 rine soldiers, 8, 9 ; consequent 
 bombardment of Algiers by the 
 British and Dutch fleets, 9-14 ; 
 invasion and conquest of the 
 country by the Prench, 14-17 ; 
 journey from Marseilles, 17 ; 
 arrival at Algiers and descrip- 
 tion thereof, 17-23 ; trip into 
 interior : to the cedar forests of 
 Teniet, 23 ; agricultural resour- 
 ces of this tract of the country, 
 24 ; European skill and capital 
 required for its development, 24, 
 25 ; industries of the colonists, 
 25 ; an Arab village, 25 ; native 
 
 police, 25 ; difficulties and dis- 
 comfort of travelling, 26 ; ac- 
 ceptable hospitality, 27 ; the 
 forest of Teniet-el-Had, 27 ; re- 
 turn to Algiers, 28 ; passage to 
 Storah, and journey to Biskra, 
 28-32 ; traffic on the road, 28 ; 
 method of conveying merchan- 
 dise by camels, 28 ; the gorge of 
 El-Kantara, 29 ; scenery, Eoman 
 road and vegetation, 29-30 ; 
 arrival at Biskra, 30-32 
 
 Algiers, historical associations, i. 3, 
 7 ; bombarded by the British fleet, 
 3, 9-14 ; blockaded and taken 
 by the French, 14, 15 ; descrip- 
 tion of the lower town, old city 
 and native quarters, 17-20 ; its 
 principal bazaar, 19 ; shops and 
 their owners, 19, 20 ; streets, 20 ; 
 habits and handicraft of inhabit- 
 ants, 21 ; coffee-grinding and 
 cafes, 21 ; population, architec- 
 ture and palaces, 22 ; a call at, 
 in 1886, 253 
 
 Algoa Bay, ii. 155 
 
 Alice, Queensland, ii. 122 
 
 Alias, Strait of, i. 329, 330 
 
 Alleghany Mountains, d. 237 
 
 Alma, Port, ii. 122 
 
 Almazon, Caliph, destroys Egyp- 
 tian canals, i. 34 
 
 Alsace, its trade with Hao, i. 156 
 
 Amboise Castle, Abd-el-Kader con- 
 fined there, i. 17 
 
 America, effect of the Trades on 
 its discovery, i. 188. See also 
 United States mid South 
 America 
 
 Amritsar, i. 259 ; its golden tem- 
 ple, 270 ; railway, 277 
 
INDEX 
 
 253 
 
 Andamans, i. 292 
 
 Anderson, Mr., at Jubilee celebra- 
 tion in Melbourne, ii. 36 
 
 Anderson, tomb of, at Mooltan, 
 i. 262 
 
 Andes, projected railway across 
 the, i. 99 
 
 Angus, Mr. J. H., his gift to 
 Adelaide University, ii. 32 
 
 Antimony mines of Sarawak, i. 310 
 
 Antonio, Port, i. 199, 200, ii. 203 
 
 Antrim Inlet, i. 141 
 
 Arab village, near Cheleffe, i. 25 
 
 Arabi Pasha, the suppression of, 
 ii. 220 
 
 Arabs at Algiers, i. 22; their 
 capacity for work, 41, 42 
 
 ' Araucania,' in the Trinidad 
 Channel, i. 147 
 
 Arbitration, courts of, in trade 
 disputes, ii. 22, 23 
 
 Archer, Point, ii. 133 
 
 Ardhai-din-ka-Jompra (ruined 
 mosque at Ajmere), ii. 240 
 
 Argentine (Central) Land Com- 
 pany, i. 101-105 
 
 Argentine Eepublic, area, popula- 
 tion, climate and progress of 
 the country, i. 98 ; commerce, 
 98, 99 ; railways, 99, 100 ; civil 
 wars, 100; introduction of foreign 
 colonists by the Central Argen- 
 tine Land Company, 100, 101 ; 
 physical features of the country, 
 100; native industry, 101, 103; 
 Indians, 101 ; land and wheat 
 cultivation, 101, 102 ; locust 
 plagues, 102, 103 ; pasturage, 
 103 ; misfortunes of foreign 
 colonists, 103, 104; future policy 
 regarding, 104-105; sheep-farm- 
 
 ing and wool production, 107- 
 109 ; as a field for British emi- 
 gration, 110 ; Italian emigrants 
 to, 112, 113; distribution of 
 population, 113 ; State colonies 
 in, 113, 114 ; emigration by arti- 
 ficial means discouraged, 114 ; 
 trip to the southern frontier, 
 114 ; State expeditions against 
 marauding Irdians, 115 ; exten- 
 sion of its southern frontier, 116 ; 
 agricultural statistics, 117 ; poli- 
 tical tranquillity necessary for 
 the country's prosperity, 117 ; 
 insurrection of 1873 suppressed, 
 118 ; President Avellaneda's 
 efforts to insure peace, 118 
 
 Armstrong guns, boats, machines 
 and gun- vessels in Australia, ii. 
 33, 46, 47, 71, 94, 105, 106 
 
 Army, British, in India, i. 263, 265, 
 267, 268, 276, ii. 229, 230, 233 
 
 Arrowroot, cultivation of, at St, 
 Vincent, ii. 192 
 
 Ascension, ii. 166 
 
 Ashley, Mr. Evelyn, at Gibraltar, 
 i. 185 
 
 Asia Minor, early trade with the 
 Roman Empire, i. 3 
 
 Asiatic Society's Library at Bom- 
 bay, ii. 244 
 
 Assab Bay, i. 256, 257 
 
 Assam, ii. 228 
 
 Assumption, i. 59 
 
 Assunguy, the Colony of, i. 83, 84 
 
 Atlantic liner, life on an, described, 
 i. 222-223 
 
 Atlantic, wind chart for the, i. 66 
 
 Atlas Mountains, i. 4, 5, 17, 22-28, 
 24, 30 
 
 Attock, railway bridge at, i. 263 
 
254 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Aumale, Duke of, and the conquest 
 
 of Algeria, i. 15 
 Aures Mountains, i. 28, 31, 32 
 Australia, suggested hydrographic 
 investigations in, i. 67 ; sheep- 
 farming in, compared with Ar- 
 gentina, 107, 108 ; the gold of, 
 compared with Patagonian, 128 ; 
 steam communication with Ta- 
 hiti, 160 ; future of, in the 
 Pacific, 168 ; and the Panama 
 route, 198 ; a thirteen months' 
 cruise to India and Australia 
 in 1886-87 : Western Australia, 
 334-343, ii. 1 ; South Australia, 
 3-33 ; journalistic zeal in, 5, 6 ; 
 and the Soudan campaign, 8 ; 
 its defences, 8-11, 32, 33; the 
 labour question in, 20-28 ; Ade- 
 laide to Melbourne, 33-67; 
 interest in India, 67, 115 ; Mel- 
 bourne to Sydney, 07-92 ; Sydney 
 to Newcastle and Brisbane, 93- 
 108 ; Eockhampton to Cook- 
 town, 108-133 ; Cooktown to 
 Thursday Island, 134-143 ; trade 
 with the Mauritius, 155 
 Australian Bight, ii. 1 
 Australian Navy, ii. 118, 119 
 Avellaneda, President, i. 117, 
 
 118 
 Azores, the, i. 211-213 
 Azul, i. 58, 114-116 
 
 Babak memorial at Delhi, i. 274 
 Bab-el-Mandeb, Straits of, i. 61 
 Babo, Baron Von, and vine-culture 
 
 in Cape Colony, ii. 160 
 ' Bacchante ' flagship, i. 280 
 Backstair Passage, ii 34 
 
 Bacon, Lord, on travel, i. 1 ; on 
 diaries, 3 
 
 Bacri, an Algerian Jew, i. 14 
 
 Bahamas, the particulars concern- 
 ing, i. 200-204, ii. 207 
 
 Bahia, i. 81 
 
 Bahia Blanca, i. 116 
 
 Balaklava, Jamaica, excursion to, 
 ii. 200, 201 
 
 Balboa, Vasco Nuez del, discoverer 
 of the Pacific, i. 121 
 
 Bali, Strait of, i. 330 
 
 Ballarat gold diggings, i. 128, ii. 40 
 
 Balmain, ii. 84 
 
 Bananas, export of, from Jamaica, 
 ii. 196, 203 
 
 Bangkok, proposed railway at, i. 
 304 
 
 Banguey Island tobacco cultiva- 
 tion, i. 316 
 
 Barages, Michigan, i. 242, 243 
 
 Barbados, ii. 177 ; the natives of, 
 178, 179 ; Christianity in, 179, 
 180, 183 ; military expenditure 
 in, 180 ; railway, 180 ; its sugar 
 industry, 181, 182 ; trade with 
 America and the United King- 
 dom, 182 ; college and church 
 at Barbados, 182, 183 ; first 
 West Indian settlement, 183 ; as 
 a miUtary station, 195 ; cultiva- 
 tion -of land in, 214 ; govern- 
 ment, 216 
 
 Barbarrossa, the Pirate, i. 3, 7, 8 
 
 Barcelona, ii. 176 
 
 Bass's Straits, ii. 34 
 
 Bateman's Bay, ii. 69 
 
 Batua, i. 28 
 
 ' Beach comber,' the, i. 160 
 
 Beaoonsfield, Lord, on Gibraltar, 
 252, 253 
 
INDEX 
 
 255 
 
 ' Beagle,' its surveys, i. 148 
 
 Beohes-de-mer (dried sea-slugs), ii. 
 138, 139, 149 
 
 Beechey, Captain, Pacific explorer, 
 i. 67, 154, 155 
 
 Beggars on horseback, Argentine, 
 i. 117 
 
 Belcher, Sir Edward, Pacific ex- 
 plorer, i. 67, 155 
 
 Belgium, its trade with Argentine 
 Eepublic, i. 99, 109 
 
 Bellingshausen, Pacific explorer, i. 
 154 
 
 Beloochees, the, characteristics of, 
 i. 260 
 
 Belvedere, Bengal, ii. 234 
 
 Benares, ii. 232, 233 
 
 Bengal, its native troops, i. 263, 
 266, ii. 233 ; the Bay of, i. 292 ; 
 acting governor of, ii. 224 ; 
 plains of, 228 
 
 Bengalis, physique of the, ii. 235 
 
 Bergen, its industries and other 
 particulars concerning, i. 47-49, 
 55 
 
 Bermuda, passage to, i. 205, 208, 
 209 ; its dockyard and buildings, 
 210, 280 ; strategical position, 
 210 ; fortifications and garrison, 
 211 
 
 Bermudas, general description of, 
 i. 209 ; the scene of Shake- 
 speare's ' Tempest,' 210 
 
 Bertie Bay, i. 144 
 
 Bijapur, King of, and Jangira, i. 
 293 
 
 Biskra, journey to, i. 28 ; the town, 
 80, 31 ; sunset at, 32 
 
 ' Bismarck,' German war-ship, ii. 
 85 
 
 Bitter Lakes, i. 33, 255 
 
 Blaine, Mr., on the Eastern ques- 
 tion, ii. 212 
 
 Blake, Sir Henry, Governor of 
 Jamaica, ii. 195, 196, 198, 202 
 
 Blaldstone Island, ii. 212 
 
 Blanco, President, i. 194 
 
 Blidah, i. 23, 24 
 
 Blonde shoal, i. 165 
 
 Blue Mountains, Jamaica, i. 199, 
 ii. 195, 217 
 
 Blue Mountains, N.S.W., ii. 90, 91 
 
 Blyden, Mr., of Sierra Leone, ii. 
 167 
 
 Boa Baliia ( = good bay of Bom- 
 bay), i. 278 
 
 ' Boadicea ' flagship, ii. 228 
 
 Boca de Huevos, i. 189, ii. 184 
 
 Bodo, i. 50, 51, 54 ; midnight sun- 
 sets at, 51, 54 
 
 Boehm, statue by, at Bombay, ii. 
 243 
 
 Boers, and the Government of 
 Cape Colony, ii. 162, 163 
 
 Bolan Pass, and the invasion of 
 India, i. 261, 265 
 
 Bold Head, i. 334 
 
 Bombay, and the Suez Canal 
 route, i. 44, 278 ; visits to, 258, 
 ii. 241 ; trade, i. 277 ; site, 278 ; 
 progress and communications, 
 278, ii. 241 ; harbour, i. 278, ii. 
 244 ; public buildings and 
 statues, i. 279, ii. 241-248 ; 
 dockyard, i. 279, 299, ii. 244 ; 
 want of a graving dock, i. 280, 
 281, 299, ii. 245 ; its lifting 
 dock, i. 280 ; military and naval 
 forces, 281, ii. 242, 244, 245 ; 
 defences of, i. 281 ; its cotton 
 factories, 283-290, ii. 245; 
 sailors' home, 243 ; seafaring 
 
256 
 
 INDEX 
 
 population, 245 ; Opium Com- 
 missioners at, 245 
 
 Bombay and Burmah Trading Co., 
 i. 302 ; use of elephants by, 306 
 
 Bon, Cape, i. 184, ii. 247 
 
 Bona, coral industry, i. 9, 19, 20 ; 
 occupied by the French, 15 
 
 Bonin Islands, i. 177 
 
 Bonnecho, the discoverer, i. 154 
 
 Borda, Cape, ii. 2, 3 
 
 Borel, M., his share in .construct- 
 ing the Suez Canal, i. 41 
 
 Borja Bay, i. 183, 146 
 
 Borneo. See North Borneo 
 
 Bosanquet, Captain, of H.M.S. 
 ' Opal,' ii. 92 
 
 Botany Bay, ii. 142 
 
 Bougainville (explorer) in the 
 Pacific, i. 154 
 
 Boughton Island, ii. 97 
 
 Boungo Channel, i. 60 
 
 Bourmont, General de, French 
 commander in Algeria (1830), i. 
 15 
 
 Bow Island, i. 59 
 
 Bowen, ii. 125 ; future of, 126 
 
 Brand, President, ii. 162 
 
 Brander, Mr., of Tahiti, i. 162 
 
 Brassey, Lord, address to ' Sun- 
 beam ' crew, i. 249 ; interviewed 
 in Australia, ii. 6-11, 114-122 ; 
 speeches by, in Australia, 13-16, 
 20-28, 37-40, 52-60 ; on sailors' 
 rests, 60, 61 ; presentation and 
 picnic to, in Sydney, 77-83 ; 
 summary of his voyages and 
 travels, 249, 250 
 
 Brassey, Mrs. (afterwards Lady 
 Annie), views Clarke Island 
 from the topsail yard, i. 153 ; at 
 Hao, 155 ; interest in the St. 
 
 John Ambulance Association, ii. 
 61, 88-90 
 
 Brassey, the late Mr. Thomas, 
 works and appreciation of, i. 
 277, ii. 80-82, 253 
 
 Brassey, Cape, i. 186 
 
 Bray, Mr., at Adelaide, ii. 17 
 
 Brazil, its trade with Bergen, i. 47 ; 
 visit to (1876), 78 ; Government, 
 80 ; ruler, 80 ; chances of a 
 republic, 81 ; personal influence 
 of the Emperor, 81, 82 ; papal 
 edict against freemasons, 82 ; 
 Emperor's summer palace at 
 Petropolis, 83, 85 ; German 
 colonists in, 85 ; unsuitable field 
 for British emigrants, 86, 87 ; 
 climate, 86, 94 ; import duties, 
 87 ; deficiencies of the people 
 as a race, 87 ; intolerance of 
 matrimonial laws, 88 ; cultiva- 
 tion of waste land, 88 ; agricul- 
 tural products, 88 ; coffee plan- 
 tations and slave labour, 88-93 ; 
 free versus slave labour, 93 ; ex- 
 tension of the upper Parana 
 River to, 97 ; emigration by arti- 
 ficial means discouraged, 114 
 
 Breaksea Island, ii. 1 
 
 Breaksea Spit, ii. 107, 142 
 
 Bridgetown, Barbados, ii. 177-179 
 
 Brindisi, ii. 246 
 
 Brisbane, ii. 97-99 ; the Press and 
 Federation, 99 ; situation of the 
 city, 99 ; population and suburbs, 
 100 ; the river and botanic gar- 
 dens, 100; Houses of Legisla- 
 ture, 101 ; the great bridge, 101 ; 
 its naval contingent, 106 
 
 Brisbane, Captain, and the Dey of 
 Algiers, i. 13, 14 
 
INDEX 
 
 257 
 
 ' Brisk,' British cruiser, ii. 228 
 
 British African Company, ii. 166 
 
 British colonists and emigrants, 
 Brazil unsuitable for, i. 86 ; 
 Baron de Eio Benito's kindness 
 to, 88 ; to the Argentine Republic 
 and the United States, 110, 112, 
 113 ; unfit for physical labour 
 in the Tropics, ii. 16, 21, 22 ; in 
 Queensland, 128 
 
 British India Company, its trade 
 with Ceylon, i. 297 
 
 Brockbank & Atkins, chronometer 
 makers, i. 66 
 
 Broken Hill, silver at, ii. 31 
 
 Bronoe Sound, navigation in, i. 
 56 
 
 Brooke, Rajah, and Sir James, 
 their work in Sarawak, i. 308-312 
 
 Broome, Sir Frederick Napier, on 
 the Parliament of Western 
 Australia, i. 341 
 
 Brown, Captain, and the Yonnies 
 expedition, ii. 167 
 
 Brown, Commander, R.N., i. 119 
 
 Brown, Mr. John Crosby, of 
 Orange, U.S.A., i. 231, 232 
 
 Browning, Robert, on manual 
 labour, ii. 26 
 
 Brownless, Dr., at Jubilee celebra- 
 tion in Melbourne, ii. 36 
 
 Brun, Mr., on the shape of 
 Makassar, i. 328 
 
 Brunei, the river, city, and other 
 particulars concerning, i. 314- 
 316 
 
 Buddhism in Ceylon, i. 296 
 
 Buenos Ayres, visit to, i. 58, 64 ; 
 extension of the Parana River 
 into, 97 ; horse- and cattle-rear- 
 ing in, ] 06 ; sheep farming and 
 
 wool production, 107-109 ; as a 
 field for emigrants. 111 ; poli- 
 tical influence of Italian Emi- 
 grants in, 112, 113 ; density of 
 population, 113 ; failure of State 
 colonies, 113, 114; richness of 
 the soil, 116 
 
 Bugeaud, Marshal, defeats Abd-el- 
 Kader, i. 16 
 
 Bullock Brothers, Messrs., Ran- 
 goon, i. 301, 302 
 
 Burgess, Lieut., at bombardment 
 of Algiers, i. 10 
 
 Burke, quoted, i. 81 
 
 Burmah, progress under British 
 rule, i. 301 ; industries, 301, 
 
 305, 306 ; story of its annexa- 
 tion, 302 ; and consequent re- 
 sentment of the Burmese, 303, 
 304 ; development of the 
 country : railways, 304 ; ignor- 
 ance of its interior, 305 ; spar- 
 sity of population and its cause, 
 
 306, 307 
 Bustard Bay, ii. 142 
 
 Byrne, Mr. St. Clare, designer of 
 
 the ' Sunbeam,' i. 63 
 Byron, John (explorer), on the 
 
 wreck of the ' Wager,' i. 145 ; 
 
 at the Paumotu group, 154 
 Byron, Cape, ii. 97 
 
 Cabul, its trade with Peshawur, i. 
 264 
 
 Cadiz, communication with Ha- 
 vana, ii. 204 
 
 Cahima, Queen, and the spread of 
 Islam, i. 7 
 
 Cain, Councillor, at Melbourne, ii. 
 51 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
258 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Cairo, ii. 219 
 
 Calcutta, proposed railway to 
 Burmah, 1. 805 ; voyage to, ii. 
 219, 222; work of the Opium 
 Commission at, 223 ; life of 
 seamen at, 223, 224 ; situation 
 of llie town, 224 ; its park, 224 ; 
 public buildings and Govern- 
 ment House, i. 279, ii. 225; 
 Christmas Day at, 228 ; New 
 Year's festivities, 230; visit to 
 sailors' home, 230 ; native wages 
 in, 232 
 
 California, its gold diggings, i. 129 
 
 Callaghan, Mr., of the North 
 Borneo Company, i. 325 
 
 Camels, use of, in Algeria, i. 28, 29 ; 
 in constructing Suez Canal, 37 ; 
 in India, 262, 264 
 
 Cameron, Mr., on the Mount 
 Morgan Gold Mines, ii. 112 
 
 Canada, its trade with Tahiti and 
 the West Indies, i. 161, ii. 182, 
 192 ; subsidy of steamers by 
 Canada to Australia, ii. 9 ; ad- 
 vantages to Canada of union 
 with Great Britain, 58, 59 
 
 Canary Islands, its trade with 
 Jamaica, ii. 199 
 
 Canning Jute Mills (Calcutta), ii. 
 232 
 
 Cape Colony, trade with the Mau- 
 ritius, ii. 155 ; enterprise of the 
 Government of, 158, 159 ; its old 
 Dutch towns, 160 ; visit to a 
 Dutch farm in, 161 ; agriculture 
 in, 162 ; politics in, 162 ; relations 
 with the Transvaal, Orange Free 
 State, and the native tribes, 
 162-165 ; its railways, 163, 164 ; 
 its mineral wealth, 165 
 
 Cape de Verdes, ii. 169, 176 
 
 Cape of Good Hope, i. 44, 65, 69, 
 ii. 151 
 
 Cape Town, view of Table Moun- 
 tain from, ii. 158 ; its new dock, 
 public buildings and other at- 
 tractions, 159 ; its suburbs, 160 
 
 Capricorn, Cape, ii. 107, 142 
 
 Caraceas, the, i. 193, 194 
 
 Cardwell, ii. 129, 130 
 
 Carey, Mr. J. C, at Hawkesbury 
 River, ii. 79 
 
 Caribbean Sea, i. 191 
 
 Carlisle Bay, Barbados, ii. 177 
 
 Carrington, Lord and Lady, at 
 Sydney, ii. 76, 85 
 
 Carter, Mr. G. D., at Melbourne, ii. 
 51, 52 
 
 Carteret (explorer) at the Paumotu 
 group, i. 154 
 
 Carthagena Harbour, i. 184 
 
 Castanet, Messrs., of St. Lucia, ii. 
 194 
 
 Castries (St. Lucia), the port of, ii. 
 193 ; as a coaling-station, 194 ; 
 physical conditions of, 194 
 
 Cauvery, the delta of the, i. 296 
 
 Cawnpore, the mutiny at, ii. 234 
 
 Cayman Islands, ii. 218 
 
 Celebes Sea and islands, i. 325 
 
 ' Cerberus,' turret-vessel, ii. 242 
 
 Ceylon, visit to, i. 292 ; derivation 
 of the name, 295 ; Buddhism in, 
 296 ; shape of the island, 296 
 its rubies, mountains, riverS; 
 climate, and vegetation, 296 
 coffee and tea planting, 297 
 spices and other products, 297 
 pearl fisheries, 297 ; its chief 
 towns, 297 
 
 Challenger Bay, ii. 127 
 
INDEX 
 
 259 
 
 Chambr^, Lieut., of the ' Fant6me,' 
 i. 176, 177 
 
 Chantrey, statues by, in Bombay, 
 ii. 244 
 
 Charles V., Emperor of Spain, and 
 the Corsairs of Barbary, i. 8 
 
 Charters Towers goldfields, ii. 127 
 
 Chasm Eeaeh, i. 142 
 
 Cheleffe, plain of, i. 23, 25, 26 
 
 Chesapeake, Eiver, ii. 207, 208, 212 
 
 Chesuey, General, his survey of 
 the Isthmus of Suez, i. 34 
 
 Chicago, journey to, i. 236 ; arrival 
 at, 237 ; position and growth, 
 238 ; centre of a vast commerce, 
 238 ; colossal proportions of its 
 buildings and streets, 239 ; the 
 city of business, 239 ; trade with 
 Marquette, 241 
 
 ChiU, and the navigation of the 
 Straits of Magellan, i. 125, 130 ; 
 aspirations of, concerning Sandy 
 Point, 127-130 
 
 Chilians, trade with marauding 
 Indians, i. 116 
 
 China, lighthouse on the coast of, 
 i. 66 ; trade with Tahiti, India, 
 and Brunei, 160, 287, 314, 315, 
 ii. 239 ; and the Panama Canal 
 route, i. 198 ; proposed railway 
 communication with India, 304, 
 305 ; trade routes to, ii. 136, 144 
 
 China seas, wind chart for the, i. 66 
 
 Chinese commissioners at Sydney, 
 ii. 90 
 
 Chinese in Burmah, North Borneo, 
 
 Australia, and West Indies, i. 
 
 305, 311, 314, 319, 823, 327, ii. 
 
 21, 22, 30, 74, 150, 153, 185, 204 
 
 Chinese junks, i. 181 
 
 Chippewaw Indians at L'Anse, i.243 
 
 Chloral, ii. 241 
 
 Chlorination process for gold, ii. 
 110-112 
 
 Cbristiansund, i. 50 
 
 Church Missionary Society, its 
 work at Sierra Leone, ii. 167 
 
 Churchill, Lord Randolph, his 
 strictures on naval administra- 
 tion considered, ii. 119 
 
 Cingalese pearl divers, i. 297 
 
 Claremont Island, its lightship, ii. 
 137 
 
 Clarke, Hon. W., at Hawkesbury 
 Eiver, ii. 79 
 
 Clarke Island, i. 152, 153, ii. 92 
 
 Cleveland (U.S.A.), its trade with 
 Marquette, i. 241 ; iron industry 
 at, 244 
 
 Coal miners, wages and hours of, 
 in N.S.W., ii. 94 
 
 Cochin China, navigation of its 
 rivers, 307 
 
 Cockatoo Island, ii. 84 ; dockyard 
 and graving docks at, 85 
 
 Cocoa-nut Island, 165 
 
 Codrington College, Barbados, ii. 
 182, 183 
 
 Coffee-grinding at Algiers, i. 21 
 
 Collins, Mr. (U.S. Consul), ii. 83 
 
 Colombo, visits to, and other par- 
 ticulars concerning, i. 61, 64, 
 291, 297, 298, ii. 221, 222 
 
 Colon, steamship communication 
 with Havana, ii. 204 
 
 Colonial Sugar Company (Queens- 
 land), ii. 127 
 
 Columbus, effect of the Trades on 
 his discoveries, i. 188 ; and the 
 Dragon's Mouths, 189, ii. 184, 
 and the Bahamas, i. 204 
 
 Comorin, Cape, i. 290, 291 
 
 s 2 
 
260 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Conciliation, courts of, in trade 
 
 disputes, ii. 23, 24 
 Conolly, Mr. T. J., at Jubilee cele- 
 bration in Melbourne, ii. 36 
 Constantia, vine-culture at, ii. 160 
 Constantine, i. 16, 2 , 28 
 Constantinople, Mr. Blaine on 
 
 England's influence at, ii. 212 
 Conway, Cape, ii. 124 
 Coode, Sir John, and Coode Island 
 
 as a coaling-station, ii. 144 ; his 
 
 breakwater at Table Bay, 158 
 Cook, Captain, the explorer, i. 154, 
 
 156, 159, ii. 14,69, 134, 141-143 
 Cook, Colonel, and the Sikhs, 26 
 Cook, Mount, ii. 134, 135 
 Cook's Pigeon House, ii. 69 
 Cooktown, voyage to, ii. 133 ; its 
 
 situation and other particulars 
 
 concerning, ii. 134, 135 
 Coolie labour in Burmah, Austra- 
 lia, and the West Indies, i. 802, 
 
 ii. 21, 22, 185, 197 
 Coreovado Peak, i. 79, 94, 95 
 Cordillero range, i. 129, 130 
 Cordova, the explorer, i. 122, 133 
 Cordova, excursion to, and other 
 
 particulars concerning, i. 58, 99, 
 
 100, 105, 183 
 Coromandel coast, deltas of, i. 296 
 ' Corsair,' steamship, i. 232 
 Corsairs of Barbary, i. 8, 7, 8 
 Cowie, Messrs., and the Muara coal 
 
 mines, i. 314 
 Cowper, Consul, on the Argentine 
 
 Eepublio, i. 98, 110, 117 
 Creole population of the Mauritius, 
 
 ii. 153 
 Crete, Island of, i. 62 
 Crocker, Mr., governor of North 
 
 Borneo, i. 307, 323, 825 
 
 Croydon, North Queensland, gold 
 
 in, ii. 113 
 Cuba, voyages to, i. 200, ii. 203 ; 
 
 coral formations off the coast, i. 
 
 203 ; Government of, ii. 206 
 Cumberland Islands, Australia, ii. 
 
 123 
 Cureton's Mooltani Horse, i. 266 
 
 ' Daoia,' cable-laying ship, i. 137 
 Dacoity, revival of, in Bnrmah, i. 
 
 803 
 Daintree, valley of the, ii. 183 
 Dale, Mr. David, and the labour 
 
 question, ii. 23 
 Dalgety, Messrs., of Newcastle 
 
 (N.S.W.), ii. 95 
 Dalhousie, Lord, his trip in the 
 
 ' Sunbeam,' i. 251 
 Dalley, Eight Hon. W. B., in 
 
 N.S.W., ii. 79, 80, 85 
 Dampier's Collection of Voyages, i. 
 
 131 
 Dana, Mr., on the crater of Kilauea, 
 
 i. 168 ; and coral reefs, 204 
 Danger Point, ii. 98, 142 
 'Dangerous,' early name for 
 
 Paumotu group, 154 
 Darjeeling, ii. 224, 225 ; other 
 
 particulars concerning, 226-228 
 Darley, Sir Frederick and Lady, 
 
 in N.S.W., ii. 91 
 Darling Downs, Queensland, ii. 
 
 101 
 Darling Harbour and Point, 
 
 Sydney, ii. 71, 76 
 Darnley Island, the administration 
 
 of, and other particulars con- 
 cerning, ii. 147-149 
 Darvel Bay, its harbour and pro- 
 
INDEX 
 
 261 
 
 ducts, i. 316, 317, 321 ; Chinese 
 
 settlement at, 321 
 Darwin, Professor, on the height 
 
 of snow line, glaciers, and coral 
 
 reefs, i. 147, 148, 204 
 Darwin, Port, ii. 149-151, 157 
 Davenport, Sir Samuel, at Ade- 
 laide, ii. 13, 32 
 Davies, Mr., British resident at 
 
 Kudat, i. 317 
 Davis, Mr., formerly of Hastings, 
 
 at Sydney, ii. 78 
 Deerstalking near Darvel Bay, i. 
 
 325 
 Dela Eue.Mr. Warren, his evidence 
 
 on Meteorology, i. 68 
 Delgada, Cape, i. 124 
 Delhi, i. 259, ii. 235 ; its buildings, 
 
 i. 274, 275, ii. 236, 237, 238 ; the 
 
 Eidge during the Mutiny, i. 
 
 275; its railway, 277; native 
 
 troops at, ii. 236 
 Denham, Admiral Sir Henry, his 
 
 hydrographio labours, i. 67 
 Denison, Port, ii. 125 
 Desolation, Isle of, i. 134 
 D'Estary, Count, at Grenada, ii. 189 
 Diamond Hill, i. 174 
 Diamonds of South Africa, ii. 156, 
 
 165 
 'Dido,' H.M.S., at Ocho Eios, i. 
 
 199 
 Dillon, General, at Eawul Pindi, i. 
 
 266 
 Direction Hills, i. 124 
 Direction Islands, ii. 143 
 Divers, pearl, wages of, ii. 146 
 ' Dolphin,' U.S.N., ii. 209 
 Donovan, Colonel, his fights 
 
 against marauding Indians, i. 
 
 115 
 
 Donovan, Mr., librarian at Bris- 
 bane, ii. 101, 102 
 
 Doria, Spanish Admiral, at Algiers, 
 i. 8 
 
 Dove, Professor, his meteorological 
 investigations, i. 68 
 
 Downer, Mr., rector of Kingston, 
 Jamaica, i. 199 
 
 Dragon's mouths, i. 189, 191, ii. 
 184 
 
 Drake, Sir Francis, i. 126, 131 
 
 Drake's Island, i. 215 
 
 Dromedary, Mount, ii. 142 
 
 Drontheim, its shipbuilding indus- 
 try and Cathedral, i. 55 
 
 Drysander, Mount, ii. 124 
 
 Duluth, ii. 276 
 
 Duncan, Colonel, his nutmeg 
 estates, ii. 190 
 
 Dungeness, ii. 127 
 
 Dunn, Mr., his corn-mills, ii. 17, 
 18 
 
 Duperry (explorer) at the Paumotu 
 Group, i. 154 
 
 Dutch fleet, assists at bombard- 
 ment of Algiers, i. 9 ; hydro- 
 graphio investigations of, 67 ; 
 conflicts with the Portuguese, 
 294 ; descendants of the Dutch 
 at Ceylon, 298, 300; Dutch 
 administration of Makassar, 327, 
 328, ii. 15 ; colonists at the Cape, 
 163, 164 
 
 Dyaks, in Sarawak and North 
 Borneo, i. 311, 320 
 
 East, a run to the, in 1893-1894, 
 
 ii. 219-248. See India 
 Eastern Question, Mr. Blaine on 
 
 the, ii. 212 
 
262 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Ebony, use of, in Ceylon, i. 296 
 Eclipse Islands, i. 334 
 Eden, Mr., on Brazilian colonisa- 
 tion, i. 85 
 Eden Harbour, i. 149 
 Edgecumbe Bay, Queensland, ii. 
 
 125 
 Egypt, money paid by, towards 
 
 construction of Suez Canal, i. 
 
 43 ; the Oreat Pyramid of, ii. 
 
 219 ; England's position in, 
 
 220 
 Elder, Sir Thomas, of Adelaide, ii. 
 
 32 
 Elephant labour at Moulmein, i. 
 
 305, 306 
 Elizabeth Island, bird life on, i. 
 
 126 
 Elizabeth, Port, ii. 156 ; prosperity 
 
 of the town, 156 ; its trade, 156, 
 
 157 
 El-Kantara, the gorge of, i. 29 ; 
 
 scenery, 29 ; Roman road, 29 ; 
 
 and vegetation, 30 
 Ellery, Major, of the Melbourne 
 
 Observatory, ii. 65 
 Ellery, Mr. E. L. J., at Jubilee 
 
 celebration in Melbourne, ii. 
 
 36 
 Ellis, Dr., and the St. John 
 
 Ambulance Association Meeting 
 
 (Sydney), ii. 86 
 Ellis, Eev. W., on the discovery of 
 
 the Pacific, i. 121 
 Elphinstone, Lord, statue at 
 
 Bombay, ii. 244 
 Emerson, Mr., on confidence in 
 
 sailors, i. 208 
 Emigrants, their nationality and 
 
 characteristics, i. 224, 225. See 
 
 also under British, German, &c. 
 
 Emma, Queen, of the Sandwich 
 Islands, i. 175 
 
 Emu Plains, ii. 90, 91 
 
 ' Endeavour,' Captain Cook's ship, 
 ii. 141, 143 
 
 Endeavour Eiver, ii. 134, 143 
 
 Endeavour Strait, ii. 143 
 
 England. See Great Britain 
 
 English Narrows, dangers of, i. 
 143, 144, 147 
 
 English Eeach, i. 133 
 
 Englishmen as Seamen, i. 70-73, 
 333. See also Seamen 
 
 Ensenada, i. 58, 119 
 
 Entre Bios, i. 82 
 
 Esperanza, Island of, i. 141 
 
 Estancia de los Ingleses (Peak of 
 Teneriffe), i. 75 
 
 ' Etruria ' liner, i. 223, 224 
 
 Eucalyptus forests (Western Aus- 
 tralia), i. 336-339 
 
 Europe, a trip to the North of, in 
 1874, i. 46-56. See Norway. 
 
 Europe Inlet, i. 141 
 
 European cantonments in India, i. 
 262 
 
 Evans, Captain, his aids to navi- 
 gation, i. 67 
 
 Everest, Mount, ii. 228 
 
 Exmouth, Lord, at bombardment 
 of Algiers, i. 3, 8-14 
 
 Eyre's Sound, glaciers in, i. 148 
 
 Fairfax, Eear-Admiral, ii. 92 
 Fairway Islands, i. 134 
 False Sugar-loaf hill (Eio), i. 79 
 Famine, Port, first Spanish Settle- 
 ment at, i. 131, 132 
 Famine Eeach, i. 131 
 ' Fantome,' H.M.S., i. 173 
 
INDEX 
 
 •263 
 
 Farm Cove (Sydney), ii. 71, 72 
 
 Patsizio, Island of, i. 180 
 
 Faval, ii. 169, 170; unseaworthy 
 
 craft destroyed at, 171 ; efieet of 
 
 the Suez Canal on the trade of 
 
 Faval, 171 ; whaling at, 172 ; 
 
 statistics concerning, 172 ; view 
 
 of, from Pico, 212 
 Federation. See Imperial Federa- 
 tion 
 Fergusson cited, ii. 238 
 Findlay, Mr., on the Paumotu 
 
 group, i. 153 
 Finisterre, Cape, experiences off, i. 
 
 58, 63 
 Finmark, its fishing industry, i. 47 
 Fitzgerald, Captain, on the Navy, 
 
 ii. 119 
 Fitzgerald, Mr. Nicholas, at Im- 
 perial Federation League dinner, 
 
 Melbourne, ii. 51 
 Fitzroy, Admiral, explorer, his 
 
 surveys, i. 59, 122, 154 
 Fitzroy Biver, ii. 107, 108, 122, 
 
 123 
 Flagstaff Hill (Newcastle, N.S.W.), 
 
 its fort, ii. 94 
 Flattery, Cape, ii. 143 
 Fleming, Mr., acting governor of 
 
 the Mauritius, ii. 153 
 Flinders, Captain, the hydrogra- 
 
 pher, ii. 137 
 Flinders Passage, ii. 146, 149 
 Flower, Professor, ii. 202 
 Fly river. New Guinea, Mission 
 
 work on the, ii. 148 
 Forbes, Professor, on glaciers, i. 
 
 148, 149 
 Forbes, Sir Charles, statue of at 
 
 Bombay, ii. 244 
 Formosa Channel, i. 60 
 
 Forster, Mr. W. E., on Imperial 
 Federation, ii. 53 
 
 France, position of her troops in 
 Algeria, i. 4 ; history of her 
 conquest there, 14-17 ; esta- 
 blish native police there, 26 ; 
 trade with the Argentine Ee- 
 publio, 99, 109 ; her protectorate 
 over Tahiti, 154, 163, 164 ; her 
 naval strength, ii. 120 ; her 
 sugar bounties and its effect on 
 the Mauritius, 155 ; former con- 
 nection with Trinidad, 185 ; 
 French planters in the West 
 Indies, 217 ; and the British 
 occupation of Egypt, 220 
 
 Francki, Mr. (manager of Mort & 
 Co.'s engineering works), ii. 84 
 
 Frankland Islands, ii. 132 
 
 Freemasonry in Brazil, Papal 
 edict against, i. 82 
 
 Freetown, situation of, ii. 166 
 
 Free Trade and Protection, Lord 
 Brassey on, ii. 24-26 
 
 French Messageries Maritimes 
 (Steamship Company), i. 17, 
 297, ii. 72 
 
 Frio, Cape, i. 78, 79 
 
 Froude, Mr., on the West Indies, 
 ii. 191, 213 
 
 Froward, Cape, i. 132, 133 
 
 Puegians, precautions against, in 
 the Straits of Magellan, i. 135 
 
 Fuller, General, designs Law 
 Courts at Bombay, ii. 243 
 
 Fullerton, Captain, of the Hobson's 
 Bay naval establishment, ii. 46 
 
 Funchal, beauty of, i. 73, 74 
 
 ' Galatea ' yacht, defeat of, in 
 1886, i. 232-236 
 
264 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Galita, suggested lighthouse for, 
 
 i. 254 
 Galle, Ceylon, i. 61, 64, 297 
 Ganges, the delta of the, ii. 223, 
 
 226 
 Gata, Cape de, i. 185, ii. 247 
 Ga-via Mountain, i. 79, 95 
 Gaya, its harbour, i. 316 
 ' Gayundah ' gun-vessel, ii. 105, 
 
 106 
 Geelong, ii. 40 ; the town described, 
 
 41 
 ' General Gordon,' river boat, ii. 79 
 Genoese, at Gibraltar, i. 252 
 George, Cape, ii. 142 
 George, Henry, and the Knights of 
 
 Labour, i. 231 ; fallacy of his 
 
 theories, ii. 74, 75 
 Georgian Islands, trade with 
 
 Tahiti, i. 159 
 ' Germanic ' liner, i. 222, 223 ; life 
 
 on board, 224 ; emigrants, 224, 
 
 225 ; crew, 225-228 
 Germans, as colonists, emigrants, 
 
 and navigators, i. 85, 86, 112, 
 
 113, 161, 225, 317, ii. 102-105, 
 
 116 
 Germany, trade with the Argen- 
 tine Republic and Tahiti, i. 109, 
 
 161 ; type of its cruisers, 191, ii. 
 
 75 ; Lord Brassey on the unity 
 
 of, ii. 56, 114 ; sugar bounty 
 
 system, 155 
 Geysers of St. Michael, i. 213 
 Ghauts, the, i. 293 
 Ghoorkas, the, i. 268, ii. 229 
 Gibbon on the Moslem irruption, 
 
 i. 6 
 Gibb's Hill, Bermuda, i. 209 
 Gibraltar, coaling-station, i. 44 ; 
 
 visits to and calls at, 62, 64, 
 
 185, 252, ii. 176, 219; the 
 Straits of, i. 63, 186 ; its dock- 
 yard, i. 185 ; impressions of the 
 fortress, 186 ; Lord Beacons- 
 field's description of scenes on 
 the Book, 252, 253; want of 
 dock accommodation, 253 ; Ad- 
 miralty reforms at, ii. 247 
 
 Gillies, Mr. Duncan, at Melbourne, 
 ii. 51 
 
 Glaciers in the Straits of Magellan, 
 i. 148, 149 
 
 Glanville, Port, ii. 33 
 
 Glebe Colliery (Newcastle, N.S.W.), 
 ii. 95 
 
 Glenelg, ii. 3, 4, 10, 11, 20 ; battery 
 for, 33 
 
 Gloucester, Cape, ii. 125 
 
 Gloucester Island, ii. 125 
 
 Goa, Portuguese settlement in 
 India, i. 293 ; communications 
 and harbour, 293 ; ancient splen- 
 dour, 294 ; its churches, 294 ; 
 modern Goa : its salt trade, 295 
 
 Gold in Patagonia, North Borneo, 
 Australia, Cooktown, and South 
 Africa, i. 128, 130, 317, 321, 322, 
 ii. 17, 31, 40, 62, 102, 108-113, 
 127, 134, 163 
 
 Gordon, General, a, tribute to, i. 
 216 
 
 Gordon, Sir Arthur, at Kandy, i. 298 
 
 Goshen, Land of. See Ouady 
 Toumilat 
 
 Goths, the invasion of Algeria by, 
 i. 6 
 
 Goyave Bay, ii. 190 
 
 Grand Etary, Grenada, ii. 187 
 
 Grant, Admiral, at Plymouth Dock- 
 yard, i. 251 
 
 Grappler, Port, 142, 146 
 
INDEX 
 
 265 
 
 Great Barrier reef of Australia, ii. 
 123, 134, 135 
 
 Great Britain : expedition against 
 Algiers, i. 9-14 ; opposition to 
 Suez Canal, 36 ; extensive use of 
 same, 61 ; surveying service, 65, 
 66, 122 ; trade with Argentine 
 Eepublic, 99, 109; with Hao, 
 156, and the Panama route, 198 ; 
 colonial administration, 216, 
 217 ; relations with- the United 
 States, 247 ; rule in India, 273, 
 274 ; importance to, of an effi- 
 cient Indian marine, 282, 283 ; 
 administration of the Goa salt 
 trade, 295 ; and the Ceylon pearl 
 fisheries, 297 ; annexation of 
 Burmah, 302-304 ; relations 
 with the Colonies, ii. 6, 16, 54, 
 82, 83, 99 ; colonial enterprise 
 contrasted with Holland, 15 ; 
 labour and free trade questions 
 in, 22-26 ; trade with Newcastle 
 (N.S.W.) and San Francisco, 
 93 ; and Imperial Federation, 
 114; and Cape Colony, 162; 
 military expenditure in Bar- 
 bados, 180 ; her trade with, and 
 government of, the West Indies, 
 182, 185, 196, 213-218 ; and 
 the Eastern question, 212 ; posi- 
 tion in India considered, 228, 
 229 
 
 Great Isaac's Light, i. 201 
 
 Great Pyramid, the, ii. 219, 220 
 
 Grefton, Cape, ii. 132 
 
 Gregory Eange, i. 125 
 
 Gregory Shoulder, i. 125 
 
 Grenada, ii. 186 ; the Grand Etary, 
 187 ; cocoa, fruit, and nutmeg 
 industries, 187-189 ; its old forts, 
 
 189 ; departure from, 191 ; land 
 
 in, 214 
 Greuville, Cape, ii. 137, 139 
 GrifBth, Sir Samuel, Premier of 
 
 Queensland, ii. 102 
 Gaardafui, Cape, lights for, ii. 221 
 Guia Narrows, i. 139 ; scenery, 139, 
 
 140, 141 
 Gujerat, its early trade, i. 277 
 Gumti river, ii. 233 
 Gun Cay, i. 201 
 Gurney, Mr., at Goyave Bay, ii. 
 
 190 
 Gwalior, the Maharajah of Put- 
 
 tiala's services at, i. 270 
 
 Hambceg, its trade with Sierra 
 Leone, ii. 167. 
 
 Hamilton, Lieut., administrator of 
 Labuan, i. 313 
 
 Hao, or Harpe Island, i. 64, 151 ; 
 description of, 155, 156 
 
 Hardman (of Birmingham), glass 
 window by, in St. Mary's Cathe- 
 dral, Sydney, ii. 73 
 
 Hardy, Mr., of Adelaide, ii. 32 
 
 ' Harrier,' H.M.S., mail yacht, ii. 
 134, 135 
 
 Harrison, Mr. Frederic, and labour 
 disputes, ii. 23 
 
 Hastings, old residents of, at Syd- 
 ney, ii. 77 
 
 Hatteras Cove, ii. 207 
 
 Havana, ii. 204 ; characteristics 
 of, 204; harbour and shipping, 
 204 ; sanitary condition, 205 
 
 Havelock, General, and the relief 
 of Lucknow, ii. 234 
 
 Hawaii, i. 59, 64, 165 
 
 Hawke, Cape, ii. 97 
 
266 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Hawkesbury river, excursion and 
 picuie, ii. 78-83 
 
 Hay, Sir James, Governor of Bar- 
 bados, ii. 179 
 
 Hay, Sir John, of N.S.W., ii. 79 
 
 Hayradin. See Barbarrossa 
 
 Hayter, Mr. H. H., Victorian 
 statistician, ii. 61 
 
 Hayti, the negro of, ii. 202 
 
 Heath, Captain, of the Queensland 
 Marine Department, ii. 102, 106, 
 136 
 
 Hely Hutchinson, Sir Walter, 
 Governor of Grenada, ii. 189, 
 190, 192 
 
 Henry, Cape, ii. 207, 208 
 
 Henry, Prince, of Prussia, at Port 
 of Spain, i. 190 
 
 Herbert Eiver, ii. 127, 128 
 
 Heusner, Commodore (of the ' Bis- 
 marck '), ii. 85 
 
 Hext, Captain, superintendent of 
 Indian Marine, 280 
 
 Hicks, Point, ii. 141 
 
 Hildyard, Captain, his adventures, 
 i. 187, 138 ; on the dangers of 
 the English Narrows, 143 
 
 Hilo, i. 164, 165 ; picturesque ap- 
 pearance of the town, 165 ; 
 swimming and diving feats at, 
 170-173 
 
 ' Himalaya,' P. and 0. steamship, 
 ii. 246 
 
 Himalayas, the, i. 263, 265, ii. 
 226-228 
 
 Hinohcliff, Mr., on Lota, i. 150 
 
 Hinchinbrook Channel, ii. 127 
 
 Hinohinbrook Island, ii. 128, 
 129 
 
 Hindus in Burmah, i. 305 
 
 Hobson's Bay, ii. 35 ; its naval es- 
 
 tabUshment, 46-51 ; the natural 
 harbour of Melbourne, 67 
 
 Hoe, Plymouth, i. 215 
 
 Hofmeyer, Mr., of the Cape Par- 
 liament, ii. 160, 163 
 
 Hog's Island, lifting-dock at, i. 280 
 
 Holdfast Bay Yacht Club, ii. 3 
 
 Holkar, Maharajah, of Indore, ii. 
 240, 241 
 
 Holland. See Dutch 
 
 Hong-Kong, i. 60, 64 ; trade with 
 North Borneo, 317 ; proposed 
 extension of communications, 
 ii. 9 
 
 Honolulu, i. 59 ; suggested hydro- 
 graphic investigation at, 67 ; 
 description of, 173-176 
 
 Hooghly, the, i. 300, ii. 223, 224 
 
 Hope, Messrs., locust plague on 
 their farm, i. 102 
 
 Horn, Cape, i. 65, 69 
 
 Horn Island, ii. 149 
 
 Hornehleu, the precipice of, i. 49 
 
 Horta, the roadstead of, ii. 169- 
 171 ; its breakwater, 172 
 
 Howe, Cape, ii. 68 
 
 Howick Island, native encampment 
 in the, ii. 136, 137 
 
 Hubli, railway communication 
 with, i. 293 
 
 Hughes, Sir Walter, his gift to 
 Adelaide University, ii. 32 
 
 Huglem, i. 52 
 
 Hull, Commander, his aids to 
 navigation, i. 67, 176 
 
 Humayoou Memorial at Delhi, 274 
 
 Hummocky Island, ii. 107 
 
 Hunt, Mr. and Mrs., missionaries 
 ii. 147, 148 
 
 Hunt, Mr. Lennon, on Assunguy, 
 i. 83-85 
 
INDEX 
 
 267 
 
 Hunter, Dr., on the Portuguese 
 
 dominion in India, i. 294 
 Hunter Eiver (N.S.W.), ii. 93 
 Husband's Inlet, i. 141 
 Hutchinson, Lieut., in Victoria, ii. 
 
 49 
 Huxley, Professor, and the Marine 
 
 Biological Station at Jamaica, ii. 
 
 202 
 Hyderabad, Nizam of, i. 271 
 
 IcEBEKG Sound, i. 149 
 Icebergs, dangers of, i. 223 
 ' lUimani,' ss., courtesy of her cap- 
 tain, 123 
 Imperial and Colonial Conference, 
 
 ii. 117 
 Imperial Federation in Australia, 
 
 ii. 7, 51-60, 99, 114-117, 121 
 India (a thirteen months' cruise 
 to India and Australia in 1886- 
 1887), i. 248 ; down Channel and 
 call at Plymouth, 251 ; passage 
 to Gibraltar, Algiers, Port Said, 
 Suez Canal, and Bed Sea, 252- 
 256 ; to Aden and Bombay, 257, 
 258 ; journey to Kurrachee and 
 Shikarpur, 259, 260; establish- 
 ment of municipal councils in 
 India, 261 ; possible invasion 
 of India considered, 261-265 ; 
 journey to Lahore, 261 ; Euro- 
 pean cantonments in India, 262 ; 
 journey to Peshawur, 263 ; the 
 trade route to Cabul, 264 ; stay 
 at Eawul Pindi, 266 ; Amritsar 
 and Puttiala, 270 ; difficulties of 
 Indian princes, 271 ; British v. 
 Native rule, 273, 274 ; native 
 love of display, 274 ; necessity 
 
 of British rule, 274 ; visit to 
 Delhi, 274 ; to Agra, 276 ; prison 
 administration, 277 ; return to 
 Bombay, 277 ; ootton-mill in- 
 dustry in, 283-290 ; visit to Jan- 
 gira, 290 ; to Goa, Ceylon, Co- 
 lombo, Kandy, and Trinoomalee, 
 293-298 ; railway development 
 in, 300, 305 ; Eangoon, 301 ; 
 annexation of Burmah, 302 ; 
 Moulmein, 305 ; value of India 
 to the Colonies, ii. 7, 57, 115, 
 116 ; wheat cultivation in, com- 
 pared with South Australia, 30 ; 
 its trade with the Mauritius, 
 155 ; Opium Commissioners in 
 India, 219-248 ; England's posi- 
 tion in, 228, 229 ; effect of the 
 spread of education among the 
 natives, 229 ; consequent desire 
 to share in the Government, 229 ; 
 necessity for British troops in, 
 229 ; a Government opium fac- 
 tory, 231 ; wages in India, 231, 
 232 ; reminiscences of the Mu- 
 tiny, 233, 234 ; Government of 
 native states, 289 ; opium trade 
 in the native states, 239-244 ; 
 railway travelling in, 241 ; local 
 force at Bombay, 242, 244 
 
 India, Portuguese, i. 293-295 
 
 Indian army (native), i. 268, 266- 
 268 ; position of native officers, 
 269, 273, ii. 229, 233, 286 
 
 Indian Marines, i. 279, 280, 282, 
 283, ii. 242, 244 
 
 Indian Mutiny, loyalty of the Sikhs 
 during the, i. 270 ; the Delhi 
 Eidge during, 275 
 
 Indian Ocean, i. 61 ; wind charts 
 of, 66, ii. 153 
 
268 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Indian Beach, i. 142 
 
 Indians in the Argentine Republic, 
 
 i. 100, 101, 110, 115, 116 
 Indore, Opium Commissioners at, 
 
 ii. 240, 241 ; situation of the 
 
 city, 241 
 Indus, railway bridges over the, i. 
 
 260, 261, 263 ; its canals, 262 
 Inglis. Hon. James, at Hawkesbury 
 
 river picnic, ii. 79 
 Inglis, Mr., harbour-master at 
 
 Glenelg, ii. 12 
 Inland seas of Japan, i. 60-62, 
 
 64 
 Inquisition, the, in Portuguese 
 
 India, i. 294 
 Insurance, maritime, its abuse, ii. 
 
 141, 171 
 Intercolonial railway, ii. 9 
 Interviewing in Australia, ii. 114 
 Investigator Strait, ii. 2, 3 
 ' Iphig^nie,' French cadet frigate, 
 
 ii. 168 
 Irish colonists in the Argentine 
 
 Eepublic, i. 110 
 Isly, battle of, i. 16 
 Ismailia, headquarters of the Suez 
 
 Canal Company, i. 38, 42 ; coal- 
 ing-station at, 44 ; sunset at, 
 
 255 ; call at, in 1893, ii. 219 
 Italians in the Argentine Bepublic, 
 
 i. 100, 105, 112, 113 ; at Assab, 
 
 256 
 Italy, the unity of, ii. 56, 114 
 Ives, Professor, at Adelaide, ii. 20 
 
 Jack, Mr., on the Mount Morgan 
 
 goldmines, ii. 112 
 Jackson, Port, description of, ii. 
 
 69-71 
 
 Jacob, Colonel S. S., his work in 
 Jeypore, ii. 239 
 
 Jacobabad, military force at, i. 260 
 
 Jain temple at Ajmere, its archi- 
 tecture, ii. 240 
 
 Jamaica, i. 196 ; scenery, 196 ; 
 statistics, 196 ; negro popula- 
 tion, 196 ; indolence of natives, 
 
 197 ; fertihty of soil, 197 ; trade, 
 
 198 ; its chief towns, 198 ; 
 another visit to, ii. 195 ; im- 
 proved prosperity of, 196 ; its 
 products, 196, 203 ; the sugar 
 industry and the manumission 
 of the slaves, 196, 197 ; the 
 planter, 197, 198 ; coffee, fruit, 
 cacao, and fruit cultivation in, 
 198, 199 ; absentee ownership 
 in, 197, 198, 217 ; loyalty and 
 simplicity of natives, 199, 201, 
 202 ; religion, 199 ; railway con- 
 struction and wages in, 200, 201 ; 
 establishment of a marine bio- 
 logical station at, 202 ; land in, 
 215 ; Government, 216 ; as a 
 field for British settlers, 217 
 
 James's ' Naval History,' quoted, 
 i. 8 
 
 James Eiver, ii. 208 
 
 Jamestown, St. Helena, ii. 165 
 
 Jamid Musjid, the, at Delhi, i. 274 
 
 Jamrud, fort of, visit to, i. 263, 
 264 
 
 Jangira, fort of, i. 292 ; the Nawab 
 of, 292 ; origin of his family, 292 
 
 Japan, visit to, i. 60-62, 181, 182 ; 
 lighthouses on the coast of, 66 ; 
 and the Panama Canal route, 
 198; its trade with Bombay, 
 287 ; visit to a Japanese cor- 
 vette, ii. 18 
 
INDEX 
 
 269 
 
 Japanese art ooUeotion at Mon- 
 treal, ii. 253 
 Japanese junks, i. 181 
 Jardine, Mr., his cattle station at 
 
 Somerset, ii. 140 
 Javanese labour in Queensland, ii. 
 
 131, 132 
 Jebel Sukkir, i. 256 
 Jervois, Sir William, and the de- 
 fence of Australian harbours, ii. 
 8, 83 
 Jesuits, their work in Northern 
 
 Michigan, i. 243, 244 
 Jew, an Algerine, described, i. 19, 20 
 Jews, at Algiers, i. 22 ; at Gibral- 
 tar, 253 
 Jeypore, Opium Commissioners at, 
 ii. 238 ; the Prime Minister of, 
 239 ; wealth of the Maharaja of 
 289 
 Jhind, Phulkan chief, i. 270 
 Joel, Consul, on wheat-growing in 
 
 Eoldan, i. 102 
 Johnson Eiver, ii. 131 
 Johore, i. 61, 307 
 JoinvUle, Prince de, and the con- 
 quest of Algeria, i. 15, 16 
 Jujuy, projected railway extension 
 
 to, i. 100 
 Jumna Eiver, ii. 288 
 Jute Mills, Calcutta, wages in, ii. 232 
 
 Kabyles, characteristics of, i. 16 ; 
 
 at Algiers, 22 
 Kabylia, conquest of, i. 16, 17 ; 
 
 toys from, 19 
 Kaffirs, and the Government of 
 
 Cape Colony, ii. 162, 164 
 ' Kaiser-i-Hind,' P. and 0. steamer, 
 
 ii. 222 
 
 Kandy, its scenery, i. 298 ; and 
 
 gardens, ii. 101 
 Kangaroo Island, ii. 2, 3, 34 
 Keightley, Mr. S., on the coal in- 
 dustry at Newcastle (N.S.W.), ii. 
 95 
 
 Kelly, Tom, the negro pilot of the 
 Bahamas, i. 201-203 
 
 Kennedy, Admiral, at Calcutta, ii. 
 228 ; at Bombay, 242 , 
 
 Kennion, Bishop (Primate of South 
 Australia), ii. 18, 21 
 
 Kettle, Mr. Bupert, and the labour 
 question, ii. 23 
 
 Kilauea, the crater of, i. 166-170 
 
 Kimberley, Cape, ii. 132 
 
 Kimberley, yield of diamonds at, 
 ii. 156 
 
 Kina Balu Mountain, i. 316 
 
 Kinchinjunga, peak of, ii. 227, 228 
 
 King, Captain, his surveys, i. 59, 
 122 
 
 King, Cape, i. 181 
 
 King George's Sound, i. 334 ; the 
 harbour and its defences, 334, 
 335 ; Lord Brassey on the de- 
 fence of, ii. 8, 9, 144. See also 
 Albany 
 
 King William IV.'s Land, its 
 mountains, i. 136 
 
 Kingston, Jamaica, i. 197, 198 ; 
 the church in, 199 ; another visit 
 to, ii. 195 
 
 Kingstown (West Indies), charac- 
 teristics of, ii. 191 ; the Bay, 
 191 ; condition of the populace, 
 193 
 
 Kioto, opening of a railway to, i. 
 60 
 
 Kirkwall, Orkney, compared with 
 Thursday Island, ii. 145 
 
270 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Knights of Labour in New York, i. 
 231 
 
 Kobe, i. 60, 64 
 
 Kolaba, Bombay, its church, ii. 245 
 
 Kolaba, peninsula, i. 278 
 
 Korkan, its early trade, i. 277, 278 
 
 Korum Valley, impracticable for 
 artillery, i. 265 
 
 Kotzebue (explorer) at the Pau- 
 motu group, i. 154 
 
 Kruger, President, on Boer inde- 
 pendence, ii. 162 
 
 Kudat, its harbour, i. 316 ; posi- 
 tion and prospects, 317 ; tobacco 
 industry, 317 ; dangerous navi- 
 gation of the waters near, 317, 
 318 
 
 Kunching, i. 308 ; its population, 
 buildings, fort, and roads, 309 
 
 Kuper, Admiral, bombards Simo- 
 noseki, i. 60 
 
 Kuro Siwo, i. 60 
 
 Kurrachee, i. 259, 261 ; strategical 
 importance, 259 ; harbour im- 
 provements, 259 
 
 Kutub Minar column described, i. 
 274, 275 
 
 Kyber Pass, fort at entrance of, i. 
 264; trade through the pass, 
 264 ; difficulties of Russian in- 
 vasion, 265 
 
 Laeotjb question, the, ii. 21-24 
 La Brea, its pitch lake, i. 190 
 Labuan, size, i. 312 ; administra- 
 tion of, 313, 314 
 Ladder Hill, i. 139 
 Ladrone Islands, i. 59, 122 
 La Guayra, i. 193, 194; its rail- 
 way, 194 
 
 Lahore, i. 259, 261 ; the city, 262, 
 263 ; its university, 272 ; prison 
 administration, 277 ; another 
 call at, ii. 235 
 
 Laird, Messrs., makers of the 
 ' Sunbeam's ' engines, i. 63 
 
 Lamport & Holt, Messrs., ship- 
 owners, ii. 193 
 
 Lancashire, its cotton industry 
 compared with that of Bombay, 
 i. 283-289 
 
 Lankester, Professor Eay, and the 
 Marine Biological Station in 
 Jamaica, ii. 202 
 
 L'Anse, i. 242 ; Indians at, 243 
 
 Laplanders at Tromso, i. 53 ; num- 
 ber of Laplanders in 1874, 55 
 
 Largs, Fort, ii. 33 
 
 La VaUey, M., his share in con- 
 structing the Suez Canal, i. 41 
 
 Lawrence, Sir Henry, Memorial at 
 Lucknow, ii. 234 
 
 Lecky, Captain, and the passage 
 of Trinidad Channel, i. 147 
 
 Lee, Commander, at Sydney, ii. 86 
 
 Leeuwin, Cape, i. 341 
 
 Leeward Islands, trade with 
 Tahiti, i. 161 
 
 Le Maire (explorer) at the Pau- 
 motu group, i. 154 
 
 Le Pere, his survey of the Isthmus 
 of Suez, i. 34 
 
 Lesseps, M. de, early career, i. 34 ; 
 surveys the Isthmus of Suez, 
 35 ; concession from Egyptian 
 Viceroy to construct a canal, 35 ; 
 submits scheme to an Inter- 
 national Commission, 35 ; suc- 
 cessfully advocates his project 
 throughout Europe, 36 ; and the 
 traffic through the Canal, 255 
 
INDEX 
 
 271 
 
 Levantine troops massacre Chris- 
 tians at Bona, i. 9 
 
 Leys, Governor, of Labuan, i. 313 
 
 Liebnis, Dr., on the quality of 
 Mount Morgan gold, ii. 112 
 
 ' Liguria,' Orient liner, i. 332 
 
 Lima, cable to, i. 137 
 
 Lindsay, Mr., the explorer, on 
 South Australia, ii. 30 
 
 Linschoten Islands, i. 60 
 
 Lisbon, calls at, i. 63, 64, ii. 248 
 
 Little-Sea Hill, ii. 107 
 
 Liukiu Islands, i. 60 
 
 Lizard, the, i. 214 
 
 Lizard Island, ii. 143 
 
 Loch, Sir Henry, at Melbourne, ii. 
 35-37 
 
 Locust plagues in the Argentine 
 Republic, i. 102, 103 
 
 LofEoden Islands, its fishing in- 
 dustry, i. 47, 54 ; midnight sun- 
 set off the, 51 
 
 Log of the ' Sunbeam,' cruise 
 round the world in 1876-77, i. 
 64, 146, 164 ; cruise to the West 
 Indies in 1883, 217-221 ; cruise 
 to India and Australia in 
 1886-87, 250, 251, 291, 324, ii. 
 4, 35, 70, 107, 133 ; run to the 
 East in 1893-94, 248 
 
 Lombok, the peak of, i. 329, 330 
 
 London and the Suez Canal route, 
 i. 44, 45 
 
 London Missionary Society, ii. 148 
 
 Long Reach, i. 138 ; its barren 
 scenery, 134 
 
 Longwood, St. Helena, ii. 166 
 Lookout, Cape, ii. 207 
 Lookout, Point, ii. 143 
 Lota, i. 59, 64 ; mines and scenery, 
 150 
 
 Louis, Port, ii. 151 ; botanical 
 gardens and observatory, 152 ; 
 defences and docks, 155 
 
 Low Archipelago. See Paumotu 
 Group 
 
 Luoern, abundance of, at Buenos 
 Ayres, i. 116 
 
 Lucknow, ii. 233 ; the European 
 cantonment in, 233 ; the Resi- 
 dency during the Mutiny, 233 ; 
 the relief of, 234 ; Lawrence 
 memorial at, 234 
 
 Lunar photographs taken at Mel- 
 bourne, ii. 65 
 
 ' Lurline,' yacht, ii. 212 
 
 Lyell, Sir .Tames, visit of the 
 Maharaja Nabha to, ii. 235 
 
 Lyons, Gulf of, ii. 177 
 
 ' Maoalistee,' American river 
 
 steamer, ii. 209 
 Macao, i. 60 
 Macartney, Lord, at Grenada, ii. 
 
 189 
 MacBain, Sir James, at Melbourne, 
 
 ii. 51 
 MoClean, Mr., and the Suez Canal 
 
 scheme, i. 35 
 Maodonald, Sir John, on union 
 
 with England, ii. 58, 59 
 Maodonnell, Mr., on emigration, i. 
 
 108-110, 112, 113 
 Mcll wraith, Sir Thomas, his cattle 
 
 stations, ii. 127 
 McKay, Captain,'on icebergs, i. 223 
 McNeil's Zareba, behaviour of the 
 
 Sikhs at, i. 267 
 Maopherson Range, ii. 98 
 Madagascar, its trade with the 
 
 Mauritius, ii. 155 
 
272 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Madeira, i. 58, 64, 73 ; population 
 and productions of, 74 ; sub- 
 division of land, 74 ; another 
 visit to, 186, 187 
 
 Madras, ii. 222 
 
 'Magdala,' turret vessel, ii. 242 
 
 Magellan, his discoveries and death 
 in the Pacific, i. 121, 122, 151 
 
 Magellan, Straits of. See Straits 
 of Magellan. 
 
 Magnetieal Isle, ii. 142 
 
 Mahi Bddin, i. 15 
 
 Mahommedanism in Africa, i. 6, 7 
 
 Mahrattas, conflicts with Moguls, 
 i. 278, 293 
 
 Maitea, Island of, i. 156 
 
 Maitland (N.S.W.), ii. 93 
 
 Majorca, i. 184 
 
 Makassar, Dutch administration 
 of, i. 327 ; effect of, 328, ii. 15 ; 
 its suburbs, i. 328 ; native dwell- 
 ings, 328, 329 
 
 Makassar, Straits of, i. 325 ; diffi- 
 culties of navigation, 326 
 
 Malabar Point, Government House 
 at, i. 259 
 
 Malacca, i. 61 
 
 Malacca, Straits of, as a trade 
 route, i. 804 
 
 Malakoff, Duke de, his palace in 
 Algiers, i. 22, 23 
 
 Malays, in Sarawak, i. 310, 311 
 
 Malcolm, Sir John, statue of, at 
 Bombay, ii. 244 
 
 Malewall6 Channel, i. 332 
 
 Maling, Captain, of St. Vincent, ii. 
 191 
 
 Malta, coaling-station at, i. 44 ; 
 call at, 62, 64, 183; its dock- 
 yard, 184, ii. 244 ; other visits 
 to, 253, ii. 246, 247 
 
 Manaar, Gulf of, its pearl fisheries, 
 
 i. 297 
 Manby, Mr., and the Suez Canal 
 
 scheme, i. 35 
 Manchester, its trade with Sierra 
 
 Leone, ii. 167 
 Manchester Eegiment at Agra, i. 
 
 276 
 Mandair Eiver, i. 293 
 Mandalay, proposed railway com- 
 munication with Rangoon, i. 
 
 304 
 Manifold, Cape, ii. 142 
 Mansfield, Colonel, at Caraccas, i. 
 
 194 
 Maracas, waterfall, ii. 186 
 Marble Hill (Mount Lofty range), 
 
 ii. 19, 20 
 Marburgh, ii. 102, 103 ; the village 
 
 and its products, 103 ; exhibition 
 
 at, 103-105 
 Marquesas Group, trade with Ta- 
 hiti, i. 159, 161 
 Marquette, i. 241 ; country passed 
 
 through, 241 ; iron industry, 
 
 241 ; harbour, 241 ; work of 
 
 Jesuit fathers at, 243 
 Marryat, Captain, on Trade winds, 
 
 i. 195 
 Marseilles and the Suez Canal 
 
 route, i. 44, 45 ; trade with 
 • Sierra Leone, ii. 167 
 Maryborough, its naval contingent, 
 
 ii. 106 
 Matanzas, characteristics of, ii. 
 
 205 ; its shipping, i. 206 
 Mauna Loa, its height, i. 166 
 Mauritius, the, fares from, in 1869, 
 
 i. 43 ; visit to, in 1886, ii. 151 ; 
 
 viewed from Port Louis, 151 ; 
 
 its mountains, 152 ; value of 
 
INDEX 
 
 273 
 
 scientific investigations made at, 
 152-154 ; political dissensions, 
 153 ; sugar industry, wealth, 
 trade, defences, and docks, 155 
 
 Maury, Lieut. (U.S. Navy), i. 67, 
 187 
 
 Maxwell, Mr., at Kuching, i. 308 
 
 'Mayflower,' yacht, victory over 
 ' Galatea,' i. 232-236 
 
 Mayne, Captain, his survey, i. 59, 
 122 ; on the navigation of 
 Smyth's Channel, 135 
 
 Mayne Channel, i. 146 
 
 Maysi, Cape, i. 200 
 
 Mediterranean, lack of sailing 
 directions for the, i. 66 
 
 Mediterranean fleet, its develop- 
 ment since 1862, ii. 247 
 
 Mediterranean Sea, and surveys 
 of the Isthmus of Suez, i. 34, 
 35 
 
 Meeks, Mr. A. W., at Adelaide, 
 ii. 21 
 
 Melbourne, visit to, ii. 33-35 ; 
 Jubilee banquet, 35-40; Impe- 
 rial Federation dinner, 51-60 ; 
 growth of Melbourne, 62, 63; 
 situation, 63 ; botanical gardens, 
 63 ; public and municipal build- 
 ings, 63-65, 77; library, 64; 
 observatory, university, and 
 mint, 65 ; churches, 65, 66 ; 
 sport at, 66 ; its suburbs, 66 ; 
 and harbour, 67 ; natural de- 
 fences of, 71 ; the Boyal Humane 
 Society at, 74 
 
 Meldrum, Dr., meteorological ob- 
 servations and investigations, 
 i. 68, ii. 152-154 
 
 Mendoza, its fort, i. 116 
 
 Menzaleh, Lake, fishery rights in, 
 
 of Suez Canal Company sur- 
 rendered, i. 41 
 Meso de Eoldan, i. 184 
 Messier Channel, i. 145 ; dust 
 
 shower in, 149 
 Metafuz, Cape, i. 8 
 Meteorology, progress of the 
 
 science (1876), i. 68, 69 
 Metidja, Plain of, i. 23 
 Mhow, ii. 241 
 Michigan, a visit to North, i. 222 ; 
 
 mines of, 242, 243 ; its pine 
 
 forests, 338 
 Michigan Land and Iron Company, 
 
 i. 242, 243 
 Midas Gold Mine (Victoria), ii. 40, 
 
 41 
 Miller, Consul, on the Tahitian 
 
 export trade, i. 160 
 Miller, Messrs., Melbourne, rail- 
 way contractors, i. 336, ii. 150 
 Miller, Mr., of the Public Instruc- 
 • tion Department, N.S.W.,ii. 84 
 MiUianah, i. 23, 24, 26. 
 Milman, Mr., Commissioner at 
 
 Thursday Island, ii. 147 
 Miners, work and wages of, at 
 
 Mount Morgan goldfields, ii. 113 ; 
 
 Kimberley diamond, wages of, 
 
 156 
 Minikoi Island, ii. 222 
 Mirabeau, EarlBussell. on, ii. 27 
 Mirimiohie, its lumber trade, i. 
 
 241 
 Mitre, General, leader of the re- 
 volutionists in the Argentine Ee- 
 
 publio, i. 117, 118 
 Mogador, bombarded by the French, 
 
 i. 16 
 Moguls, conflicts with Mahrattas, 
 
 i. 293 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
274 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Mohammed Said and the Suez 
 Canal, i. 35, 27 
 
 MoUe, Port, ii. 124 
 
 MoUer Island, i. 154 
 
 Moluooa Islands, i. 122 
 
 Monday, Cape, i. 134 
 
 ' Monkshaven ' barque on fire, i. 
 58, 71, 119, 120; crew trans- 
 ferred to the ss. ' lUimani,' 123 
 
 Montague Island, ii. 68 
 
 Montesquieu quoted, i. 94 
 
 Monte Video, i. 58, 64, 97 
 
 Monument Hill (Newcastle, 
 N.S.W.), ii. 94 
 
 Mooltan, i. 259 ; described, 262 ; 
 its cavalry regiment, 266 ; 
 climate, 277 
 
 Moorish palaces in Algiers, i. 22 
 
 Moors in Algeria, i. 6, 7, 9 ; at 
 Gibraltar, 252 
 
 Morant Point, ii. 203 
 
 Moravians in Jamaica, ii. 199, 200 
 
 Moresby, Port, mission station, ii. 
 148 
 
 Moreton, Cape, ii. 107, 108 
 
 Moreton Island, ii. 98, 100 
 
 Morgan, Mr., his steamship the 
 ' Corsair,' i. 232 
 
 Morialta, country-house on Marble 
 Hill, ii. 20 
 
 Moriarty, Mr., Government engi- 
 neer N.S.W., ii. 85 
 
 Morley, Lord, at Gibraltar, i. 185 
 
 Morley, Mr. Arnold, his trip to the 
 Mediterranean, i. 251, 253 
 
 Morocco, Emperor of, supports 
 Abd-el-Kader against the French, 
 i. 16 
 
 Morpeth (N.S.W.), ii. 93 
 
 Mort & Co., Messrs., at Balmain, 
 ii. 84 
 
 Moslem invasion of Africa resisted 
 by the Moors, i. 6, 7 
 
 Moulmein, situation of, i. 305 ; 
 population of, 305 ; its teak in- 
 dustry, 305, 306 
 
 Mount Aymond, i. 124 
 
 Mount Batten, i. 215 
 
 Mount Burney, ' monarch of moun- 
 tains,' i. 136 
 
 Mount Edgecumbe, i. 215 
 
 Mount Gambler, railway oomm uni- 
 cation, ii. 41 ; the town, its lakes, 
 and other particulars concern- 
 ing, 43-45 
 
 Mount Lofty range, ii. 4, 5, 30 ; 
 hotel accommodation on, 11 ; 
 the Governor's house, 19 
 
 Mount Morgan gold-mines, ii. 108- 
 113 
 
 Mount Waring, ii. 98 
 
 Mourilyan, harbour and industries, 
 ii. 130-132 
 
 Mourilyan Sugar Company, ii. 130 
 
 Muara coal-mines, i. 314 
 
 Mulhall, on the Central Argentine 
 Eailway, i. 99 
 
 Mumtaz-i-Mahal memorial at Agra, 
 i. 276 
 
 Mundella, Mr., and the labour 
 question, ii. 23 
 
 Murmagao, railway communication 
 with, i. 293 
 
 Murray, Captain, his river-boat 
 ' General Gordon,' ii. 79 
 
 Murray, Hon. D., at Adelaide, ii. 
 28 
 
 Murray Island, missionary work 
 at, ii. 147, 148 
 
 Murray Biver, ii. 30 
 
 Musa consolidates Mohammedan- 
 ism in Africa, i. 7 
 
INDEX 
 
 275 
 
 Musgrave, Sir Anthony, Governor 
 of Queensland, ii. 99, 106 
 
 Muti Musjid (Pearl Mosque), at 
 Agra, ii. 238 
 
 Nabha, the Maharaja, ii. 235 
 Nabhur, Phulkan chief, i. 270 
 Napier of Magdala, Lord, trunk 
 
 road constructed by, in India, 
 
 i. 263 
 Napoleon Bonaparte, his interest 
 
 in canalising the Isthmus of 
 
 Suez, i. 34 
 Napoleon III. releases Abd-el- 
 
 Kader, i. 17 ; his awards concern- 
 ing the Suez Canal, 40 
 Narrows, the First and Second, 
 
 i. 123-126; Guia, 139-141; 
 
 English, 143, 144, 147 
 Nash, Major, his projected railway 
 
 between Trincomalee and India, 
 
 i. 300 
 Nash, Mr., of the Mourilyan Sugar 
 
 Co., ii. 130 
 Nassau, i. 202, 208 ; clearness of 
 
 its harbour water, 204 
 National Anthem, its popularity in 
 
 the Colonies, ii. 44, 45 
 Naval Volunteers and Brigades 
 
 (Colonial), ii. 10, 11 ; in Victoria, 
 
 46-51; at Sydney, 71, 76, 86, 
 
 89, 91 ; in Queensland, 106 ; at 
 
 Eockhampton, 113 
 Navvies, wages of, in Jamaica and 
 
 the United States, ii. 201 
 Navy, British, bombardment of 
 
 Algiers by, i. 10-12; skilful 
 
 handling of British war-ships, 
 
 62 ; at Bio de Janeiro, 96, 97 ; 
 
 at Bermuda, 209 : a tribute to 
 
 the Navy, 217 ; force at Bombay, 
 279, 280, ii. 242 ; Lord Brassey 
 on the Navy and colonial de- 
 fence, 9, 10, 117-121 ; length of 
 commissions in, 134 ; force at 
 Calcutta, 222 ; development in 
 construction, 246, 247 
 
 Neapolitan slaves at Algiers, i. 10 
 
 Needham Point, ii. 177 
 
 Negro, Cape, headland of, i. 79 
 
 'Nelson,' flagship, at Sydney, ii. 
 91,92 
 
 Nelson monument at Bridgetown, 
 ii. 178 
 
 Nepaul as a recruiting field, i. 268 
 
 Nerbudda, ii. 241 
 
 Newcastle, the sanatorium of 
 Jamaica, i. 198 
 
 Newcastle (N.S.W.), its coalfields, 
 ii. 79, 93-66 ; the work of the 
 St. John Ambulance Associa- 
 tion at, 86 ; population and 
 defences, 94 ; places of interest 
 in, 95 
 
 Newfoundland, dense fogs of, i. 
 222, 223 
 
 New Guinea, limited scope for 
 British enterprise in, ii. 15 ; its 
 mail service with Cooktown, 
 134 ; its pearl fisheries, 145 ; 
 mission work in, 148 
 
 New Hebrides, future trade pro- 
 spects, i. 162 
 
 New Mole, i. 185 
 
 New South Wales, coast of, ii. 68, 
 69 ; comparative agricultural 
 statistics concerning, ii. 103 
 
 New York and the Suez Canal 
 route, i. 44, 45 ; and the Panama 
 Canal route, 198; voyages to, 
 and experiences there, 222 ; posi- 
 
 T Ii 
 
276 
 
 INDEX 
 
 tion and plan ol the city, 229 
 buildings, 229; churches, 230 
 electrical disfigurements, 230 
 locomotion, 280 ; varieties of 
 nationalities at, 230, 231 ; pro- 
 cession of the Knights of Labour, 
 231 ; international yacht race 
 (1886), 232-236; its communi- 
 cation with Havana, ii. 204 
 
 New Zealand, its trade with Tahi- 
 ti, Honolulu, and Newcastle 
 (N.S.W.), i. 160, 174, ii. 93 
 
 Nile, the delta of the, ii. 220 
 
 Noble, statue by, at Bombay, ii. 243 
 
 Nordenfelt gun in Victoria, ii. 47 
 
 ' Norham Castle,' liner, i. 186 
 
 Normanby Sound, ii. 141 
 
 ' Northampton,' flagship, aground 
 at Bermuda, i. 209 ; its farewell 
 salute to the ' Sunbeam,' 211 
 
 Northampton Fusiliers in India, 
 ii. 232 
 
 North Borneo, i. 307 ; how ac- 
 quired, 316 ; its harbours, inte- 
 rior of the country, and produc- 
 tions, 816 ; navigation of its 
 waters, 317, 318 ; the stations of 
 Kudat and Sandakan, 317-321 ; 
 its constabulary, 320 ; Darval 
 Bay, 821 ; future of North 
 Borneo, 322 ; excellency of the 
 Company's administration, 328 
 
 North-east Channel, exploration 
 in, ii. 146-149 
 
 Northumberland, Lord Brassey on 
 arbitration in, ii. 23 
 
 Northumberland Islands, Aus- 
 tralia, ii. 123 
 
 Norway, rapid passage to, i. 46, 47 ; 
 coast navigation, craft, and 
 pilots of, 48, 49 ; scenery of the 
 
 coast near Hornehlen, 49 ; emi- 
 gration statistics, S4 ; height of 
 snowline in, 147 
 
 Norwegian emigrants to the United 
 States, i. 54 
 
 Norwegians as seamen, 226 
 
 Oakwood harbour, i. 244 
 
 ' Oceana,' P. and O. steamer, ii. 222 
 
 Ocho Bios, i. 199, ii. 203 
 
 Ochovario, Point, i. 141 
 
 Ogg, Sir William, at Hawkesbury 
 River, ii. 79 
 
 Ogilvy, Messrs., at Winnipeg, ii. 
 254 
 
 ' Olga,' German corvette, i. 190-192 
 
 OUver, Mr., at Goa, i. 293 
 
 Oosima, i. 177 
 
 ' Opal,' H.M.S., at Sydney, ii. 92 
 
 Opium at Makassar, i. 327 
 
 Opium Commission in India, ii. 
 219,222,223, 280, 231, 235, 237, 
 238, 289, 240, 241, 245, 246 
 
 Oran, the French at, i. 15 
 
 Orange, i. 231, 232 
 
 Orange, Cape, i. 124 
 
 Orange Free State, its relations 
 with Cape Colony, ii. 164 
 
 Oranges, St. Michael's, i. 213; 
 export of, from Jamaica, ii. 196 
 
 Organ Mountains, its railway as- 
 cent, i. 82 ; scenery, 82 ; viewed 
 from peak of Corcovado, 95 
 
 Orient liners, proposal to call at 
 Albany, i. 335 ; at Sydney, ii. 72 
 
 Orkneys, the, compared with 
 Thursday and adjacent islands, 
 ii. 144, 145 
 
 Orleans, Duke of, and the conquest 
 of Algeria, i. 15, 17 
 
INDEX 
 
 277 
 
 Orotava (Tenerifie), i. 58, 64 
 Ostrich feathers, sale of, at Port 
 
 Elizabeth, ii. 157 
 Otter Bay, i. 135, 146 ; navigation 
 
 in, 136 
 Otway, Cape, ii. 34 
 Ouady Toumilat (Land of Goshen), 
 
 ancient canal through, i. 33 ; 
 
 advantages of the fresh-water 
 
 canal to, 38 
 Oudp, services of the Maharajah 
 
 of Puttiala at, i. 270 ; the capital 
 
 of, il. 233 
 Ouled-Oudjams tribes, i. 28 
 Ovens gold-diggings, i. 128 
 Owen Island, i. 136 
 
 Pacifio, incompleteness of sailing 
 directions for the, i. 66 ; naviga- 
 tion of the, 67 ; discovery of the, 
 121; voyage across the, 150- 
 182 ; England's supremacy in, 
 ii. 84 
 
 Pali, i. 174 
 
 Palm Islands, ii. 127 
 
 Palmer Eiver gold diggings, ii. 134 
 
 Palmerston, Lord, his opposition 
 to the Suez Canal scheme, i. 
 36 
 
 Palmerston (Port Darwin) de- 
 scribed, ii. 150 
 
 Palm-oil trade of Sierra Leone, ii. 
 167 
 
 ' Paluma,' gun-vessel, ii. 105 
 
 Panama Canal, employment of 
 West Indian negroes on, i. 197 ; 
 slow progress with the work, 
 198 
 
 Pan d'Azucar, Eio de Janeiro, i. 
 79, ii. 193 
 
 Papiete harbour, i. 157 ; trade 
 
 dep6ts, 159, 161 
 Parana rivers, i. 97 
 
 Paria, the Gulf of, i. 189, ii. 184 ; 
 navigation, i. 190 ; dimensions, 
 anchorage and climate, 191 
 
 Parish, Sir Woodbine, on Buenos 
 Ayres, i. 106 ; and the Argentine 
 Republic, 117 
 
 Parkes, Sir Henry, Premier of 
 N.S.W., ii. 83, 90, 91 
 
 Parramatta, ii. 90 
 
 Parramatta Eiver, ii. 91 
 
 Parsons, Mr., on Port Darwin, ii. 
 150 
 
 Patagonia, the coast of, i. 59, 126 ; 
 gold in, and its effect on Sandy 
 Point, 128-130 
 
 Patapsco River, ii. 208 
 
 Paternoster Peak, ii. 124 
 
 Paterson, Mr. McDonald, at Mel- 
 bourne, ii. 51 
 
 Patna, the Opium Commissioners 
 at, ii. 230, 231 
 
 Paumotu Group (Low Archipelago), 
 i. 59, 64 ; Mr. Findlay's descrip- 
 tion of, 153 ; early discoverers 
 of, 154 ; its trade with Tahiti, 
 159, 161 
 
 Pavtuxent Eiver, ii. 208 
 
 Peacock, Colonel, resident at Jey- 
 pore, ii. 238 
 
 Pearl fisheries in Ceylon and 
 Thursday Island, i. 297, ii. 145, 
 146 
 
 Peat's Ferry, ii. 79 
 
 Pellew Islands, Captain Hildyard's 
 adventures on, i. 137, 138 
 
 Penang, i. 61 
 
 Penas, Gulf of, i. 59, 135, 145, 146, 
 150 ; glaciers in, 148 
 
278 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Peninsular and Oriental Steam- 
 ship Company and the lifting 
 dock at Hog's Island, i. 280 ; trade 
 with Ceylon, 297 ; Australian 
 service, 335 ; liners as cruisers, 
 ii. 10 ; at Sydney, 72 
 Pennsylvania Central Railway, i. 
 
 286, 237 
 Pennsylvania, the State of, i. 237 ; 
 scenery, 237 
 
 Percy Islands, ii. 123 
 
 Pernambuco, i. 81 
 
 Perth (Australia), its communica- 
 tions with Albany, i. 335 
 
 Peru, Viceroy of, and the fortifica- 
 tion of the Straits of Magellan, 
 i. 131 
 
 Peshawur, i. 259 ; railway defences 
 and forces, 263-265 ; trade, 264, 
 266 ; climate, 265, 266 
 
 Peter Bottle Mountain, ii. 133, 152 
 
 Petit, Mr., at Bombay, i. 283, 289 
 
 Petropolis, i. 82 ; its mountain 
 railway, 82 ; the town, 83 ; forest, 
 83 ; German colonists at, 85 
 
 Pharaoh Necho, his canal, i. 83 
 
 Philippines, the, disco-vered by 
 Magellan, i. 122 
 
 Philipville, the port of, i. 28 
 
 Phillip, Port, ii. 84, 35 ; harbour, 
 40 ; bay, 41 ; heads, 68 
 
 Phillips, Mr. W. H., at Adelaide, 
 ii. 28 
 
 Phipps, Mr., on Brazil, i. 86, 90, 92 
 
 Pico, the peak of, i. 212, ii. 170 ; 
 whaling at, 172 
 
 Piddington, his meteorological in- 
 vestigations, i. 68 
 
 Pigeon House, ii. 142 
 
 Piggott, Major, and the Yonnies 
 expedition, ii. 167 
 
 Pike, Lieut., of H.M.S. ' Harrier,' 
 
 ii. 134. 
 Pile Light, ii. 35 
 Pillar, Cape, i. 134 
 Pine, Mr. Buskin on the, i. 338 
 Pine Island, ii. 123 
 Piney Point, ii. 212 
 Piper Islands, ii. 139 
 Piracy, suppression of, at Sarawak, 
 i. 309, 310. See also Corsairs of 
 Barbary 
 Pitch Lake, ii. 184 
 Pitons of St. Lucia, ii. 193 
 Pittsburgh, i. 237 
 Pius IX., edict against Free- 
 masonry in Brazil, i. 82 
 Plantain, cultivation of, in Cuba, 
 
 ii. 205 
 Plymouth, visit to the dockyard at, 
 
 i. 251 
 Polynesia, i. 155, 163 
 Pomare, late Queen of Tahiti, i. 
 
 163 
 Ponce Mountain, ii. 152 ; ascended, 
 
 154 
 Pope-Hennessy, Sir John, and the 
 
 Mauritius, ii. 153 
 Port of Spain, i. 189, 190 
 Port Royal, naval establishment, 
 i. 195, 196, 198 ; the Cays of, ii. 
 195 ; visit to, 202 
 Port Said, engineering difficulties 
 at, i. 39, 40 ; coaling station, 44, 
 255 ; calls at, 62, ii. 219 
 Porto Pim, harbour, ii. 171 
 Porto Praya, ii. 168, 169 
 Portsmouth, its defences, i. 2S1 
 Portugal, subdivision of land in, 
 i. 74 ; and the possession of St. 
 Antonio, 78 ; possessions in 
 India, 293 ; fall of dominion 
 
INDEX 
 
 279 
 
 there, 294 ; administration of 
 Goa, 295 ; of Porto Praya and 
 Payal, ii. 168, 172 
 
 Portuguese emigrants in Brazil, i. 
 93 
 
 Possession Bay, i.64, 123, 126, 146 
 
 Possession, Port, early Spanish 
 settlement at, i. 131, 132 
 
 Potomac River, ii. 207-209, 211 ; 
 navigation of, 212 
 
 Prince of Wales Channel as a trade 
 route, ii. 143, 144 
 
 Princess Royal Harbour, i;334, ii. 1 
 
 Protection, Lord Brassey on, ii. 
 24-26 
 
 ' Protector,' gunboat, ii. 33 
 
 Puco Gaya, i. 325 
 
 Paerto Bueno, i. 137, 146; fresh 
 water lake, 138 ; vegetation, 138, 
 139 
 
 Pullman, Mr., his carriage factory 
 near Chicago, i. 240, 241 
 
 Punjaub, annexation of the, i. 262 ; 
 capital, 262 ; defences, 263 ; 
 armed force in, 263 ; as a re- 
 cruiting field for soldiers, 268 ; 
 for Burmah police, 303 
 
 Punta Delgada, gardens, i. 213 
 
 Puttiala, i. 259 ; loyalty of its 
 rulers, 270, 272 ; administration 
 during a minority, 270, 271 ; 
 state procession, 271, 272 ; visit 
 to the Maharajah's stables and 
 palace, 272 ; college, 272 ; State 
 Durbar, 272 
 
 Queen Channel, i. 126 
 
 Queensland, ii. 98 ; products, 101 ; 
 gold, 102, 108-113, 127 ; cattle 
 rearing, 102, 103, 130, 140 ; de- 
 
 fences, 105, 106; prospects of 
 emigrants, 126 ; sugar industry, 
 128-132 ; government aid to 
 navigation, 136 ; trade through 
 the Torres Straits, 144 ; and the 
 defences of Thursday Island, 
 144 ; protectorate over Pacific 
 Islands, 146 ; native police, 147 
 
 Queenstown, i. 222 
 
 Quiros, discoverer of Paumotu 
 Group, i. 154 
 
 Quop, i. 308 
 
 Ragged Point, ii. 177 
 
 Baitea, i. 59, 64 
 
 Bajpoora, Bay of, i. 292 
 
 Eajputana, States of, poppy culti- 
 vation, ii. 239 
 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter, takes Pedro 
 Seranto prisoner, i. 132 
 
 Eamam River, ii. 227 
 
 Rambleta, plain of, on the peak of 
 Teneriffe, i. 75 
 
 ' Ramillies,' H.M.S., ii. 247 
 
 Rangoon, i. 301, 307 ; progress 
 under British rule, 301 ; rice 
 industry, 301, 305 ; proposed 
 railway communication with 
 Mandalay, 304 
 
 Rangoon River, i. 292 
 
 Rangut River, ii. 227 
 
 Rao Bahardar, Prime Minister of 
 Indore, ii. 241 
 
 Rappahannock River, ii. 208 
 
 Ras Seger, i. 258 
 
 Eawson, Dr., on the Argentine 
 Republic, i. 98 
 
 Eawul Pindi, i. 264, 266 
 
 Reay, Lord, as Governor of Bom- 
 bay, i. 259, 260 
 
280 
 
 INDEX 
 
 ' Eedbreast,' British gun-vessel, ii. 
 228 
 
 Eedfern, ii. 79 
 
 Bed Point, ii. 142 
 
 Bed Sea, and surveys of the Isth- 
 mus of Suez, i. 34, 35 ; voyage 
 through, 61 ; navigation, 256 ; 
 need of additional lights in, ii. 
 221 
 
 Beeves, Sir George, on the West 
 Indies, ii. 216 
 
 Eeid, his meteorological investiga- 
 tions, i. 68 
 
 Eeid, Mr. Hugh E., on Sailors' 
 Bests, ii. 60 
 
 Beindeer, Lapland, i. 53 
 
 Eendel, Mr., an'd the Suez Canal 
 scheme, i. 35 
 
 Eichards, Admiral, aids to naviga- 
 tion, i. 67 
 
 Biley, Mr., Mayor of Sydney, ii. 
 79 
 
 ' Eingo,' Japanese corvette, ii. 18 
 
 Eio Bonito, Baron de, his fazenda 
 in Brazil, i. 88 ; kindness to Bri- 
 tish emigrants, 88 ; construction 
 and establishment of the fa- 
 zenda, 89 ; service in chapel, 89 ; 
 slaves, 89 ; and the education of 
 slaves, 92 
 
 Eio Bonito, i. 82 
 
 Eio de Janeiro, i. 58, 64, 79 ; har- 
 bour, mountains and scenery, 79, 
 80, ii. 193 ; possibility of its be- 
 coming a separate state, i. 81 ; 
 viewed from the Organ Moun- 
 tains, 83 ; excursions from Eio, 
 94, 95 ; viewed from the peak of 
 Corcovado, 95 ; prevalence of 
 yellow fever at, and its probable 
 cause, 95 
 
 Eio Grande do Sul, i. 81 ; German 
 colonists at, 86 
 
 Eio Quinto, i. 116 
 
 Eipon, Lord, and the establishment 
 of municipal councils in India, 
 i. 261 
 
 Eiver Plate, i. 58 ; desertions from 
 H.M.'s vessels there, 97 ; estuary 
 of the Plate, 97 ; difficulties of 
 navigation, 98 ; projected rail- 
 way communication with Val- 
 paraiso, 99 ; Mr. Macdonnell on 
 emigration to Eiver Plate, 108 ; 
 suitable emigrants for. 111. See 
 also Argentine Eepublio 
 
 Bobertson, on the loss of the 
 Spanish fleet at Algiers, i. 8 
 
 Bobertson, Colonel, resident at 
 Indore, ii. 240 
 
 Bobertson, Sir John, at Hawkes- 
 bury picnic, ii. 79 
 
 Bobinson, Sir Spencer, on the 
 protection of the trade route in 
 South America, i. 77 
 
 Bobinson, Sir WilUam, Governor 
 of South Australia, ii. 5, 19, 20, 
 29, 41, 43, 45 
 
 Bookhampton, its naval contin- 
 gent, ii. 106 ; visit to, 108 ; re- 
 view of naval brigade and 
 volunteers, 113 ; Lord Brassey 
 interviewed, 114-122 ; descrip- 
 tion of the town, 122 
 
 Eockingham Channel, ii. 128 
 
 Eodonto Island, ii. 68 
 
 Eodriguez Island, ii. 151 
 
 Eoggewein, explorer, at the Pau- 
 motu Group, i. 154 ' 
 
 Eoldan, the colony of, i. 101 ; ex- 
 traordinary crop of wheat at, 102 
 Eoman Catholics at Tatakotoroa, 
 
INDEX 
 
 281 
 
 i. 154 ; at Goa, 294 ; at Sydney, 
 ii. 73 ; at Mount Morgan, 113 
 
 Eomans, trade and connection with 
 Algiers, i. 3, 6 ; and Pharaoh 
 Necho Canal, .34 
 
 Eosario, i. 58 ; railway communi- 
 cation with, 99 ; physical fea- 
 tures of the country round, 100 ; 
 small colonies formed near, 101 ; 
 price of wheat, 101 ; cattle-rear- 
 ing, 103 ; price of land, 105 
 
 Eosewood, ii. 105 
 
 Eoss Creek, ii. 126 
 
 EoBse, Lord, and marine biology 
 in Jamaica, ii. 202 
 
 Eotterdam (Makassar), Dutch fort, 
 i. 827, 328 
 
 Eoyal Geographical Society of 
 Australia, ii. 90 
 
 Eoyal Humane Society at Sydney, 
 ii. 74 
 
 Eoyal Society and the progress of 
 meteorology, i. 68, 69 
 
 Eubies of Ceylon, i. 296 
 
 Eumbold, Sir Horace, on Chili, i. 
 150 
 
 Euskin on the pine, i. 338 
 
 Eussell, Earl, on Mirabeau, ii. 27 
 
 Eussian invasion of India by the 
 Kyber discussed, i. 261, 265 ; and 
 the coal-mines of Muara, 314 ; 
 Lord Brassey on Eussia's ten- 
 dency to unity, ii. 114 ; and on 
 Eussia as a maritime power, 
 120 ; Mr. Blaine on Eussia and 
 the Eastern Question, 212 
 
 Sagami, Cape, i. 181 
 Sahara, the Great, i. 5, 30 
 Sailors. See Seamen 
 
 Sailors' Homes, at Port Adelaide, 
 ii. 18 ; Port Melbourne, 60 ; Cal- 
 cutta, 280 ; Bombay, 243 
 
 St. Antonio Island, visit to, i. 58, 
 64 ; its products, 76 ; scenery, 
 77 ; its strategic advantages if 
 acquired by England, 78; view 
 of, ii. 169 
 
 St. George, Grenada, ii. 186, 187 
 
 St. George, Cape, ii. 69 
 
 St. Helena, ii. 165 ; scenery, 165, 
 166 
 
 St. Innes' Island, i. 138 
 
 St. John, Mr., on Buenos Ayres, 
 i. 109 ; and the Argentine Ee- 
 public, 117 
 
 St. John Ambulance Association 
 in Australia, ii. 61, 85-90 
 
 St. Lucia, the Pitons of, ii. 198 ; 
 port, 198 ; coaling at, 194 ; 
 compared with Barbados as a 
 military station, 195 ; land in, 
 215 
 
 St. Mary, Cape, ii. 247 
 
 St. Michael's, i. 213 ; its fertility, 
 218 ; its oranges and other 
 fruits, 218 ; its geysers, 213 
 
 St. Nazaire, steamship communi- 
 cation with Havana, ii. 204 
 
 St. Eoque, Cape, position of, on 
 trade route, i. 77 
 
 St. Vincent, visit to and calls at, 
 i. 252; ii. 176, 248; coaling 
 station at, 169 ; proposed model 
 plantations, 190 ; scenery, 
 191 ; native objections to ad- 
 ministrative changes, 191 ; pro- 
 ducts, 192; wages of native 
 labourers, 192, 193 ; land in, 
 214, 215 
 
 St. Vincent, Gulf of, ii. 4, 11, 17, 20 
 
282 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Salami, Mr., British interpreter 
 at Algiers, i. 13 
 
 Salisbury, Lord, and the Imperial 
 Conference, ii. 117 
 
 Salomons, Hon. Julian, at Hawkes- 
 bury Biver, ii. 79 
 
 Salt trade of Goa, i. 295 
 
 Salwen Eiver, i. 305 
 
 Saman trees in the West Indies, 
 ii. 186 
 
 Samuel, Mr., at Cockatoo Island, 
 ii.85 
 
 Sandakan harbour, i. 316, 318, 
 319 ; tobacco cultivation, 316 ; 
 dangerous navigation, 317, 318 ; 
 town and population, 319 ; sur- 
 roundings, 319 ; head-quarters 
 of the constabulary, 320 
 
 Sand Heads, ii. 222 
 
 Sandridge (Victoria), ii. 67 
 
 Sandwich Islands, i. 59, 64, 164, 
 165 
 
 Sandy Cape, ii. 142 
 
 Sandy Hook, i. 229 
 
 Sandy Point, i. 58, 124, 146 ; im- 
 portance to, of improved facili- 
 ties for navigation, 125 ; a penal 
 settlement, 127 ; Chilian aspira- 
 tions regarding the town, 127 ; 
 coal and gold, 127-130 ; water, 
 129 
 
 San Fernando, i. 190 
 
 San Francisco, suggested hydro- 
 graphic investigation there, i. 
 67; trade with Tahiti, 160, 
 161 ; Honolulu, 174 ; Newcastle 
 (N.S.W.) and England, ii. 93 
 Sangar, ii. 223 
 San Isidro, Gape, scenery off, i. 
 
 131 
 San Pedro I,, i. 145 
 
 San Paulo, free labour in, i. 93 
 
 San Bafael, fortifications, i. 116 
 Santa F6, value of land at, i. 105 
 
 Santa Magdalena, bird life, i. 126 
 
 Santos, yellow fever at, ii. 193 
 
 Sarawak, the capital of, i. 308 ; 
 navigation of its river, 308 ; 
 police force, 309 ; suppression 
 of piracy in, 309 ; progress of 
 civilisation and commerce, 309, 
 310 ; communication with Sin- 
 gapore, 310 ; population, 311 ; 
 administration, 311 ; weak 
 points of government, 312 ; 
 necessity of a British protecto- 
 rate, 312 
 
 Sardinia, i. 184 
 
 Sardinian slaves at Algiers, i. 10 
 
 Sarmiento, President (1873), i. 118 
 
 Sarmiento, i. 133 
 
 Sarmiento Channel, i. 136, 137 
 
 Sassoon, Sir Albert, present to 
 Bombay, ii. 244 
 
 Saumarez Island, i. 142 
 
 Savage, Mr., missionary at Murray 
 Island, ii. 148 
 
 Schooners, trading, in the Pacific, 
 style and build of, i. 159, 160 
 
 Scbouten, explorer, at the Paumotu 
 Group, i. 154 
 
 Scilly Islands, ii. 173 
 
 Scotch colonists in the Argentine 
 Eepublic, i. 100 
 
 Scotland, trade with Argentine 
 Eepublic, i. 109; riee-milling 
 machinery, 302 
 
 Scott, Sir Gilbert, designs Lahore 
 Cathedral, i. 263 ; and library at 
 Bombay, ii. 243 
 
 Scott, Mr., his meteorological in- 
 vestigations, i. 08 
 
INDEX 
 
 283 
 
 Seal - fishing fleet at Victoria, 
 
 Canada, ii. 265 
 Seamen, hardships of, i. 69 ; 
 British, 70-73; the crew of a 
 liner, 225 ; duties and wages, 
 226, 227 ; foreign and British sea- 
 men, 226, 227 ; in the engine- 
 room, 228 ; stokers, 228 ; wages 
 of, at Port Adelaide, ii. 18 ; life 
 at Calcutta, 224 
 
 Sea Eeaoh, i. 134 
 
 Secundra, the tomb of Akbar at, 
 ii. 238 
 
 Seranto, Pedro, Spanish naviga- 
 tor, at Fort Famine, i. 131, 132 
 
 Serpent's Mouth, i. 191 
 
 ' Servia,' liner, i. 222 
 
 Seven Sisters, mountain range, i. 50 
 
 Shah Jehan memorials in India, 
 i. 274, 276, ii. 238 
 
 Shanghai, and the Suez Canal v. 
 the Panama routes, i. 44, 45 
 
 Shanklin, Mr., and gold at Sandy 
 Point, i. 128, 129 
 
 Sherwin, Miss Amy, the Tasmanian 
 singer, ii. 65 
 
 Shikarpur, i. 259, 260, 261 
 
 Ship Channel, Bermuda, i. 209 
 
 Shortland, Lieut., of Newcastle 
 (N.S.W.), ii. 93 
 
 Siam, proposed communication 
 with India, i. 305 
 
 Sibatu Island, i. 325 
 
 Sicily, its trade with the Roman 
 Empire, i. 3 
 
 Sidi Ferruch (Algeria), landing of 
 French troops at, i. 15 
 
 Sierra Leone, ii. 151, 166 ; the 
 Church in, 167 ; trade, 167 ; 
 troops at, 167, 168 ; Governor's 
 residence, 168 
 
 Sikh war, the second, i. 262 
 
 Sikhs, the, as soldiers, i. 267, 268 ; 
 loyalty during the Mutiny, 
 270 ; as police in North Borneo, 
 320 ; British confidence in, ii. 
 229 ; physique of the, 235, 236 
 
 Sikkim, ii. 228 
 
 Silam, Chinese settlement at, i. 
 321, 322 
 
 Siliguri, its railway, ii. 226 
 
 Silver, in South Australia, ii. 31, 
 150 ; question in the United 
 States, 210, 211 
 
 Simonoseki, i. 60, 64, 70 
 
 Sindh, Lord Reay's official visit 
 in, i. 259, 260 ; its barrenness, 
 261 
 
 Sing, Sir Deva, his views on 
 British policy in India, i. 273 
 
 Singapore, i. 60, 64, 70, 290, 291, 
 307 ; communication with Sara- 
 wak, 310 ; commerce with 
 Brunei and North Borneo, 315, 
 317 ; compared with Makassar, 
 328, ii. 15 
 
 Singular Peak, i. 141 
 
 Sir James Smith Islands, ii. 123 
 
 Sirsuti River, ii. 241 
 
 Sisal hemp, a product of St. 
 Vincent, ii. 192 
 
 Sivaji, Admiral of the Bijapur 
 fleet, i. 293 
 
 Skudesnaes (Norway), i. 47 
 
 Skyring, his nautical survey, i. 
 122 
 
 Slaves, Christian, in Algeria, i. 9, 
 13, 14; in Brazil, 88-93; at 
 Sarawak, 310 ; in Jamaica, ii. 
 198, 197 
 
 Smith, Captain, harbour-master of 
 Honolulu, i. 177 
 
284 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Smith, Mr. E. T., Mayor of Ade- 
 laide, ii. 12, 20 
 
 Smith, Mr. Whitfield, of Grenada, 
 ii. 189 
 
 Smoky Cape, ii. 142 
 
 Smyth's Channel, i. 59, 64, 134 ; 
 navigation of, 135, 144, 146 ; 
 scenery, 139-141 
 
 Snffibraj, its snowy peaks, i. 51 
 
 Society Islands, i. 59, 64 ; trade 
 with Tahiti, 159 
 
 Soootra Group, ii. 221, 222 
 
 Solitary Islands, ii. 97 
 
 Solomon Island, trade prospects 
 with, i. 162 
 
 Somerset, Duke of, and the dock- 
 yard at Malta, i. 184 
 
 Somerset (North Queensland), 
 cattle station a';, ii. 140 
 
 Soudan War, and the Australian 
 Contingent, ii. 8, 85 
 
 Sounding instrument. Sir W. 
 Thomson's, i. 214, ii. 34 
 
 South America, diificulties of 
 navigation around its coast, i 
 122 ; Spanish settlements in, ii. 
 206 
 
 South Australia, ii. 1-3 ; the 
 Governor of, 5 ; meeting of 
 E.G.S. of Australasia, 13-16 ; the 
 Church in Australia, 18 ; labour 
 question, 21, 30 ; education, 26, 
 31, 32 ; ceremony of opening 
 Parliament, 29 ; proclamation 
 of the Province, 29 ; debt and 
 revenue, extension of territory, 
 29, 30 ; soil and products, 
 30-32; Staterailways, 31, 41; 
 defences, 32, 33 ; land question, 
 44, 45 ; comparative agricultural 
 statistics concerning, 10^ ; re- 
 
 sources of the Northern Territory 
 150, 151 
 
 ' South Australian Register,' ii. 
 6-11 
 
 South Mahratta Railway, i. 293 
 
 South Reach, i. 144 
 
 South Sea Islands, native mission- 
 aries and b6che-de-mer fishers, 
 ii. 148, 149 
 
 South Seas, Magellan in the, i. 
 122 
 
 Southern Ocean, storm in, ii. 2 
 
 Spahis, native police of Algeria, 
 i. 25, 26, 27 
 
 Spain, failure of, to subdue the 
 Corsairs of Barbary, i. 7, 9 ; con- 
 nection with Trinidad, ii. 185 ; 
 administration of Cuba, 204, 206 
 
 Spaniards at Gibraltar, i. 252 
 
 Spanish discoveries and surveys in 
 the Pacific, i. 121, 122 ; settle- 
 ment at Fort Famine, 131 ; its 
 fate, 131 
 
 Spartel, Cape, i. 252, ii. 177 
 
 Spezia, ii. 176, 219 
 
 Spithead, its forts, i. 281 
 
 Sprigg, Sir Gordon, his career, ii. 
 160 
 
 Staines Peninsula, i. 136 
 
 Staoueli, battle of, i. 15 
 
 Steamers, Lord Brassey on subsi- 
 dising mail and other steamers 
 for Colonial defence, ii. 9, 10 
 
 Steele, James W., on Cuba, ii. 204, 
 205 
 
 Stellenbosoh, ii. 160; the Univer- 
 sity, 161 
 
 Stephenson, George : his opposi- 
 tion to the Suez Canal scheme, 
 i. 36, 39, 40 ; and the late Mr. T. 
 Brassey, ii. 81, 82 
 
INDEX 
 
 285 
 
 Stevens, Mr., designs Sailors' 
 
 Home at Bombay, ii. 243 
 Stewart, Mr., at Albany, i. 336, 
 
 389 
 Stock, Mr., Mayor of Glenelg, ii. 3, 
 
 11 
 Stokes, his nautical survey, i. 122 
 Stonewall, its anchorage, i. 124 
 Storms, the law of, explained, i. 
 206-208, 332, 333 ; a revolving 
 one, ii. 207 
 Stout, Sir Kobert, on England and 
 
 the Colonies, ii. 7 
 Stradbroke Island,.ii. 98, 100 
 Straits of Magellan, through the, i. 
 58, 59, 64, 65 ; rescue of the crew 
 of the ' Monkshaven ' barque, 
 119-121 ; discovery of the Straits, 
 121 ; the first passage, 122 ; 
 Spanish and later surveys, 122 ; 
 reconnaissance of the coast, 
 123 ; navigation of the First 
 and Second Narrows, 124-126 ; 
 Sandy Point, 127-130; naviga- 
 tion of Straits impossible for 
 sailing vessels, 130 ; scenery 
 going south from Sandy Point, 
 131 ; Spanish fortification of 
 the Straits, 131 ; rounding Cape 
 Froward, 132 ; English and 
 Long Beaches, 133 ; Sea Eeach 
 and Smyth's Channel, 134, 135 ; 
 navigation of the latter, 135 ; 
 Otter Bay, 135 ; intricacy of 
 navigation on leaving, 136 ; 
 meet the ' Dacia ' at Puerto 
 Bueno, 137-139; the Guia 
 Narrows, 189 ; scenery of 
 Smyth's Channel, 139-140 ; the 
 Wide Channel, 141 ; Chasm 
 Reach and Port Grappler, 142 ; 
 
 Indian Eeach and English 
 Narrows, 143 ; dangers of the 
 latter, 143-147 ; Mayne and 
 Trinidad Channels recommen- 
 ded, 147 ; height of the snow- 
 line, 147 ; number of glaciers in 
 the Straits, 148 ; temperature, 
 dust shower and scantiness of 
 population, 149 
 Strickland, Sir Edward, ii. 79 
 Suez Canal, a visit to, in 1869, i. 
 33 ; previous canals on the 
 Isthmus, 33 ; various surveys of 
 the Isthmus, 84 ; M. de Lesseps' 
 survey and scheme, 34-36 ; 
 British opposition to, 36 ; es- 
 tablishment of the Company, 
 37 ; cutting the first trench, 37 ; 
 the army of forced labourers, 
 37 ; difficulty and cost of supply- 
 ing drinking water, 87; con- 
 struction of fresh-water canal, 
 38, 39 ; difficulties of forming a 
 Mediterranean port, 39 ; forced 
 labour prohibited by the Porte, 
 40 ; the Emperor Napoleon's 
 award concerning this and other 
 matters, 40, 41 ; mechanical 
 labour-saving appliances used, 
 41 ; nationalities employed in 
 construction, 41 ; length of the 
 Canal, 42 ; prevention of sand 
 shifting, 42 ; expenditure on its 
 construction, 42, 43 ; commercial 
 value, 43 ; increased investment 
 in steam shipping consequent 
 on its completion, 48 ; saving 
 in distance and efieot on Medi- 
 terranean ports, 44, 45 ; probable 
 effect of the proposed Panama 
 Canal on Suez Canal traffic, 44, 
 
286 
 
 INDEX 
 
 45 ; extensive use of the Canal 
 by Great Britain, 61, 254 ; pas- 
 sage through in 1876 and 1886, 
 65, 254; traffic through, 255; 
 value of the Canal to India, 278 ; 
 as a trade route, 305 ; eifeot of, 
 on the trade of the Mauritius, ii. 
 155 
 
 Sugar-loaf Peaks of Bio and St. 
 Luoia, i. 79, ii. 193 
 
 Sukkur, i. 259-261 ; its railway 
 bridge, 261 
 
 Suleiman Mountains, Beloochee 
 raids from, i. 260 
 
 Sulu, Sultan of, sale of territory 
 to North Borneo Company, i. 
 316 
 
 Sunbawa volcano, i. 329 
 
 ' Sunbeam,' rapid passage to Nor- 
 way, i. 46 ; loss of one of her 
 crew, 49 ; good points of the 
 yacht, 65 ; cruise round the 
 world (1876-77), 58; in the 
 Suez Canal, 62 ; description of 
 the vessel, 63 ; useful type for 
 naval service, 64 ; her good 
 qualities, 65; loss of spars, 65 
 her crew in 1876-77, 70-73 
 rescue of the ' Monkshaven's 
 crew by, 120 ; interest of Hao 
 natives in, 155 ; invaded by 
 native fruit-vendors of Tahiti, 
 157 ; conduct of yacht in a 
 squall, 178, 179; cruise to the 
 West Indies in 1883, 184 ; action 
 in the Trades, 195 ; visit of West 
 Indian Church dignitaries to, 
 199 ; passage through the Ba- 
 hama Channel, 200-203 ; good 
 behaviour of vessel and skill 
 of her crew in voyage to Ber- 
 
 muda, 205, 206 ; address to crew 
 on starting for India and Aus- 
 tralia (1886-87), 248, 249 ; dodg- 
 ing a 'levanter,' 252; punctu- 
 ality of vessel, 259 ; rifle compe- 
 tition for crew, 320 ; navigation 
 of, in Indian Ocean, 330-333; 
 behaviour off Kangaroo Island, 
 ii. 2 ; boarded by Press repre- 
 sentative at Port Adelaide, 5 ; 
 social gathering on board at 
 Glenelg, 11, 12 ; 'At Homes ' on 
 board, 19, 91 ; visit of Adelaide 
 branch of Seamen's Union to, 
 29 ; and Melbourne ladies' com- 
 mittee of Sailors' Best, 60, 61 ; 
 visit of old Hastingers to, 77, 78 ; 
 on show at Sydney, 90 ; farewell 
 to Sydney, 92 ; navigation of, 
 through Great Barrier Beef, 136 ; 
 voyage to Ascension, 166 ; en- 
 counters gales off St. Antonio, 
 Horta, and Terceira, 169, 170, 
 173 ; defects of boiler and be- 
 haviour of her crew during voy- 
 age to India and Australia in 
 1886-87, 174, 175 ; trip to the 
 West Indies in 1892, 176, 194, 
 213 ; run to the Bast, 219, 222 ; 
 Christmas Day on board at Cal- 
 cutta, 228 ; crew join in sports 
 there, 230; at Bombay, 241; 
 return from Bombay, 246, 247. 
 See also Log of the ' Sunbeam ' 
 
 Sunda, Strait of, i. 330 
 
 Sunday, Cape, ii. 107 
 
 Sunset at Biskra, i. 32 ; off Loffo- 
 den Islands, 51 ; at Ismailia, 255 
 
 ' Superb,' H.M.S., i. 252 
 
 Superior, Lake, Jesuit mission- 
 stations on its shores, i. 243, 244 
 
INDEX 
 
 287 
 
 Susquehanna Kiver, ii. 208 
 Swain reefs of Australia, ii. 123 
 Sweden, trade with Hao, i. 156 
 Swiss colonists in the Argentine 
 
 Eepublio, i. 100 
 Switzerland, trade with Hao, i. 156 
 Sydney : harbour, ii. 70 ; its de- 
 fences, 71 ; situation, 71, 72 ; 
 attractive views of harbour, 72 ; 
 names of streets, 72 ; high rents, 
 72 ; picture gallery and cathe- 
 drals, 73 ; Koyal Humane So- 
 ciety meeting at, 74 ; Chinese 
 in, 74 ; poverty in, 74 ; the 
 German training squadron, 75 ; 
 the University, 75 ; Colonial 
 Society at, 76 ; naval volunteers, 
 77 ; municipal buildings, 77 ; 
 old residents of Hastings at, 77 ; 
 excursions from and meetings 
 at, 78-91 ; its naval brigade, 91 ; 
 and the pearl fisheries at Thurs- 
 day Island, 145 
 Sydney Cove, ii. 72 
 Sydney, Mount, ii. 60 
 Symes, Mr., at Puttiala, i. 271 
 
 Table Bay, ii. 157 ; its breakwater, 
 158 
 
 Table Hill, ii. 69 
 
 Table Mountain, beauties of, ii. 158 
 
 Tagus, ii. 248 
 
 Tahiti, i. 59, 64, 151, 152, 156 ; 
 suggested hydrographic investi- 
 gation there, 67 ; French pro- 
 tectorate over, 154 ; appearance 
 of the island, 157 ; Christianity 
 at, 157-159 ; population, 159 ; 
 naval review at, 159 ; trade and 
 commerce, 159, 160, 162 ; trad- 
 
 ing craft, 159, 160; French 
 sway in, 163 ; laws, 163 ; form 
 of government, 164 
 
 T4j Mahal mausoleum at Agra, 
 its architecture, i. 276, ii. 237, 
 238 
 
 Talabot, his survey of the Isth- 
 mus of Suez, i. 34 
 
 Tampa, communication with Ha- 
 vana, ii. 204 
 
 Tangiers, bombarded by the 
 French, i. 16 ; call at, ii. 176 
 
 Tanjong po, lighthouse on, i. 308 
 
 Tanna Ballu, i. 325 
 
 Tanteles volcano, i. 149 
 
 Tapioca, yield of, in Brazil, i. 88 
 
 Tarafel Bay, i. 58, 64 ; particulars 
 concerning, 76, 78 
 
 Tarlton, Hon. R. A., at Melbourne, 
 ii. 13 
 
 Tatakotoroa, i. 152, 154 
 
 Tavoy, proposed railway communi- 
 cation with Bangkok, i. 304 
 
 Tea, Ceylon, i. 297 
 
 Teak industry of Burmali, i. 302, 
 305 
 
 Teetulpa gold-diggings, ii. 17, 31 
 
 Telescope, the great, at Melbourne, 
 ii. 65 
 
 Teneriffe, ascent of the Peak of, 
 i. 58, 74, 75 ; view from its sum- 
 mit, 75 ; call at, ii. 176 
 
 Teniet-el-Had, i. 23, 25, 26, 28; 
 its cedar forest, 27 
 
 Tennyson, quoted, ii. 186 
 
 Tenterfield, ii. 97 
 
 Terai, jungle of the, ii. 226 
 
 Terceira, visit to, ii. 173, 174 
 
 ' Thames,' liner, i. 258 
 
 Thana, its railway communication 
 with India, i. 278 
 
288 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Theebaw, King, deposition of, i. 
 
 302-304 
 Thibet, ii. 228 
 Thirsty Sound, ii. 142 
 Thomas, Captain Brodriok, on the 
 Victorian naval brigade, ii. 46-51 
 Thomson, Sir William, his sound- 
 ing-machine, i. 214, ii. 34 
 
 Thorne & Stuttaford, Messrs., at 
 Cape Town, ii. 159 
 
 Thornhill, Bishop, of Brisbane, ii. 
 102, 106 
 
 Thornycroft torpedo-boat ' Chil- 
 ders ' in Victoria, ii. 46 
 
 Three Brothers, the, ii. 142 
 
 Three Points, Cape, ii. 142 
 
 Thuoydides, quoted, ii. 59 
 
 Thursday Island, ii. 135 ; garrison 
 at, 140 ; position, 143 ; defences, 
 144 ; compared with the Ork- 
 neys, 144, 145 ; population and 
 pearl-fishery industry, 145 
 
 Tiel Sund, the passage of, i. 52 
 
 Tierra del Puego, navigation of its 
 Channels, i. 122, 123 ; natives 
 of, 133 ; height of snow-line at, 
 147 ; its glaciers, 148 
 
 Tijuca, scenery, i. 95 ; salubrity, 
 96 
 
 Timsah, Lake, position of Ismailia 
 on, i. 42 
 
 Titan Mine (Michigan), i. 242 
 
 Tobago, i. 188, 189 
 
 Tokio (formerly Yedo), i. 181 
 
 Torghatten, Island of, i. 50 
 
 Torres Straits, ii. 107, 143, 149 ; 
 as a trade route, 144 ; pearl 
 fisheries in, 145 
 
 Tortugas, colonists at, and their 
 misfortunes, i. 103, 104 
 
 Townsville, Queensland, naval con- 
 
 tingent, ii. 106 ; railways, 126 ; 
 the town and harbour, 126, 127 
 
 Toynbee, Captain, his meteoro- 
 logical investigations, i. 68 
 
 Traoey, Mr. Secretary, on naval 
 armament, ii. 212 
 
 Trades, the, effect of the, on navi- 
 gation, i. 188 ; Captain Marryat 
 on the, 195 
 
 Trafalgar, Cape, i. 252 
 
 Trans-Australian Eailway, the be- 
 ginnings of, ii. 150 
 
 Transvaal, its relations with Cape 
 Colony, ii. 162-164; gold in, 163 
 
 Treacher, Mr., ex-Governor of 
 North Borneo, i. 323, 325 
 
 Treachery Bay, efieet of mission 
 work in, ii. 148 
 
 Treaty Point, i. 182 
 
 Trenear, Mr., of the Mount Morgan 
 gold-mines, ii. Ill 
 
 Tribulation, Cape, ii. 142 
 
 Trieste, and the Suez Canal, i. 44 
 
 Trinoomalee, dockyard, i. 279, 299 ; 
 visit to, 292 ; its harbour, 297, 
 298 ; costliness of its naval 
 establishment, 299 ; proposal to 
 transfer its administration to the 
 Indian Government, 299, 300; 
 defences of Trincomalee, 300 ; 
 projected railway at, 300 ; fort, 
 300, 301 
 
 Trinidad, i. 187-189 ; scenery, 189, 
 ii. 186 ; statistics concerning, i. 
 192; viewed from the sea, ii. 
 183 ; products, 184, 199 ; popu- 
 lation, 184 ; chequered history, 
 185 ; progress, 185 ; waterfall, 
 185, 186 ; vegetation, 186^; culti- 
 vation of land in, 214 ; govern- 
 ment, 216 
 
1N1)£X 
 
 289 
 
 Ti-inidad Channel, i. 147 
 
 Trinity Bay, ii. 142 
 
 TroUope, Mr. Anthony, on College 
 Hall, Sydney University, ii. 75 
 
 Tromso, i. 53 
 
 Tropics, nights in the, i. 331 
 
 Tryon Point, 1. 141 
 
 Tubufii Group, trade with Tahiti, 
 i. 159 
 
 Tnouman, railway extension to, 
 1.100 
 
 Tudhope, Mr., at Cape Town, ii. 
 160 
 
 Tunis, Dey of, and Lord Exmouth, 
 i. 9 
 
 Turkish troops in Algeria, i. 8, 9 
 
 Tyler, Dr., at Agra, i. 277 
 
 Tyson, Mr., the Australian mil- 
 lionaire, ii. 126, 130 
 
 Ullaeulla, derivation of, ii. 69 
 
 TJmballah, the Opium Commis- 
 sioners at, ii. 235 
 
 Unfit Bay, i. 139 
 
 United States, the, and the Pana- 
 ma Canal, i. 44 ; Norwegian 
 emigrants to, 54 ; trade with 
 Argentine Eepublio, 99, 117 ; as 
 a field for emigration compared 
 with the Argentine Republic, 
 110-113 ; survey of the Kilauea 
 crater, 168 ; influence in Hawaii, 
 176 ; a flying visit to the States 
 in 1886, 222 ; distance covered, 
 222 ; passage to New York in 
 the ' Germanic,' 222 ; danger of 
 icebergs, 223 ; emigrants to, 224, 
 225; the crew of an Atlantic 
 liner, 225-228 ; arrival at Sandy 
 Hook, 229 ; New York, 229-231 ; 
 
 VOL. II, 
 
 Orange, 231, 232 ; yacht-racing, 
 232-236 ; journey to Chicago, 
 236-241; Marquette, 241-243; 
 Cleveland, 244 ; social and poli- 
 tical condition of the States, 
 244, 245 ; business practice, 245 ; 
 condition of the people, 245 ; 
 education, 246 ; constitution, 
 246 ; fiscal policy, 246 ; relations 
 with Great Britain, 247, ii. 116 ; 
 Protection in, 26 ; America com- 
 pared with Australia, 99 ; its 
 whale fisheries at Faval, 172 ; 
 its trade with the West Indies, 
 182-185, 192, 196, 203; social 
 position of coloured population 
 in, 199 ; labourers' wages in, 
 201 ; and marine biology in 
 Jamaica, 202 ; trade with Ha- 
 vana, 204 ; call at, in 1892, 207 ; 
 coasting-schooners, 208, 209 ; 
 gun-foundry at Washington, 210 
 Upright Point, ii. 69, 142 
 
 Vaast Fioed, navigating the, i. 52 
 
 Valencia, ii. 176 
 
 Valparaiso, i. 59, 64, 150-152, 156 ; 
 projected railway communica- 
 tion with, 99 ; cable to, 137 ; 
 trade with Tahiti, 160 
 
 Vancouver Island, extension of 
 communications between, and 
 the Colonies, ii. 9, 10 
 
 Van de Capellen, Dutch vice- 
 admiral, i. 9 
 
 Venezuela, i. 193, 194 
 
 Venice and the Cape of Good Hope 
 passage, i. 44 
 
 Venus, Point, i. 156, 162 
 
 Verdes, Cape de, i. 58, 64, 76 ; 
 
^90 
 
 INDEX 
 
 position of, on trade route, 77, ' 
 78 I 
 
 Vernier, M., French Protestant 1 
 pastor at Tahiti, i. 157 
 
 Vernon, Lieutenant (U.S.N.), i. 
 146 
 
 Vernon, Mount, ii. 209 
 
 ' Vernon,' reformatory ship, ii. 84 
 
 Vibarts, Colonel, of the Mooltani 
 Horse, i. 266 
 
 Victoria, Queen, Jubilee celebration 
 at Adelaide and Melbourne, ii. 
 12, 35-40, 54, 55, 64 ; New Year's 
 celebration in honour of, at Cal- 
 cutta, 230 ; statue of, at Bombay, 
 243 
 
 Victoria (AustraUa), Queen Vic- 
 toria's Jubilee celebrated at, ii. 
 85-40; gold-mines, 40, 62; de- 
 fences, 46-51 ; population and 
 climate, 61; products, 62 ; State 
 railways, 62 ; public libraries, 
 64 ; comparative agricultural 
 statistics concerning, ii. 103 
 
 Victoria (Queensland), sugar in- 
 dustry at, ii. 127 
 
 Victoria Yacht Club, Australia, ii. 
 51 
 
 Villefranche, i. 213, ii. 176 
 
 Virgins, Cape, i. 121, 123, 130, 145, 
 146 
 
 'Volage,' H.M.S., smart appear- 
 ance of her crew, i. 96 
 
 Volantes, a Cuban vehicle, ii. 205, 
 206 
 
 Volney, on the hillsmen of India, 
 i. 268 
 
 Volunteers, Colonial, i. 300, ii. 9, 
 
 114. See also Naval Volunteers 
 
 Voyages of Lord Brassey, summary 
 
 of, distances sailed, countries 
 
 and places visited, and yachts 
 used, ii. 249, 250 
 Vries, i. 180, 181 
 
 Wadia, Mr., on Bombay cotton 
 
 mill industry, i, 284 
 ' Wager,' wreck of the, i. 145 
 Wages in Western Australia, i. 339, 
 
 340 ; in India, ii. 231, 232 
 Waghorn, Lieutenant, his survey 
 
 of the Isthmus of Suez, i. 34 
 Wales, Prince of, statue at Bombay, 
 
 ii. 243 
 Wallis, explorer, at the Paumotu 
 
 Group, i. 154 
 Walsh, Mr., of Cardwell, ii. 130 
 Warburton, Major, at the Jamrud 
 
 Fort, i. 264 
 Warning, Mount, ii. 142 
 Washington, George, monument 
 
 on the River Potomac, ii. 211 
 Washington, ii. 207-209 ; visit to 
 the Navy yard, 210 ; Congress 
 and the silver question, 210, 
 211 ; public buildings and his- 
 . torioal pictures, 211 
 Washington, Fort, ii. 209 
 Watson's Bay, ii. 70 
 Weaver, ' Sunbeam's ' ship's cook, 
 
 wins rifle competition, i. 320 
 Webb, Mr. Justice, at Melbourne, 
 
 ii. 51 
 Wesleyans at Mount Morgan, ii. 
 
 113 
 West African Telegraph Company 
 
 station at Porto Praya, ii. 169 
 West Indian Eegiment at Sierra 
 
 Leone, ii. 167, 168 
 West India Society, ii. 197 
 West Indies, trade with Bergen, i. 
 47 ; a cruise to the, in 1883 ; 
 
INDEX 
 
 291 
 
 reasons for the cruise, 183 ; 
 Malta, 184, 185 ; Gibraltar, 185- 
 187 ; Madeira to Trinidad, 187- 
 189 ; hurricanes of the, 188 ; at 
 Trinidad, 190-192 ; description 
 of the West Indies, 192 ; Trini- 
 dad to La Guayra, 193-195 ; La 
 Guayra to Jamaica, 195-200 ; 
 the Church in the, 199 ; Jamaica 
 to Nassau, 200-204; a bargain 
 in pilotage, 201 ; the negroes of 
 the West Indies as boatmen, 
 203 ; Nassau to Bermuda, 205- 
 211 ; Bermuda to Plymouth, 
 211-215 ; statistics of the cruise, 
 215 ; advantages of sail for long 
 voyages, 215, 216 ; reflections on 
 the cruise, 216 ; our colonial 
 administration, 216 ; energy of 
 our colonists, 216, 217 ; tribute 
 to the Navy, 217 ; analysis of 
 the log and distances run, 217- 
 221 ; another trip to, in 1892 : 
 sea experiences, ii. 176, 177 ; 
 visit Barbados, 177-183 ; Trini- 
 dad, 184-186 ; Grenada, 186- 
 190 ; government schemes for 
 benefit of natives, 189, 190 ; St. 
 Vincent, 191 ; St. Lucia, 193 ; 
 military stations in the West 
 Indies, 195 ; Jamaica, 195-202 ; 
 the planters of the Indies, 197, 
 198 ; Port Eoyal, 202 ; St. An- 
 tonio, 203; Cuba, 204-207; 
 Washington, 207-212 ; our posi- 
 tion in the West Indies con- 
 sidered, 213 ; necessity of naval 
 supremacy, 213 ; recent im- 
 proved prosperity of the islands, 
 213 ; future development^ 214 ; 
 uncultivated land in, 214, 215 ; 
 
 planters and peasant proprietors, 
 215 ; extension of self-govern- 
 ment not advisable, 215, 216 ; 
 its various legislatures, 216 ; as 
 a field for British capital and 
 enterprise, 216, 217 ; unsuitable 
 for European settlers, 217 ; the 
 future of, under British rule, 218 
 
 West Indies (French), enterprise 
 of French proprietors in, ii. 217 
 
 Western Australia, i. 334 ; its 
 eucalyptus forests, 337-339; 
 labour and wages, 339, 340 ; 
 prospects, 340 ; climate and soil, 
 341 ; administration, 341, 342 ; 
 prica of land, 342 ; defence, ii. 8 
 
 Weston, Miss, her interest in sea- 
 men, ii. 60, 01 
 
 Wetmore mine (Michigan), i. 242 
 
 Whale-fishing at Faval, ii. 172 
 
 Wheelwright, Mr., and the Central 
 Argentine railway, i. S9, 100 
 
 Whitfield's Stores, Barbados, ii. 
 178 
 
 Whitehead torpedoes in Victoria, 
 ii. 46, 47, 49 
 
 Whitsunday Islands, ii. 123, 124 
 
 Whitsunday Passage, ii. 124, 125, 
 142 
 
 Wide Channel, i. 141 
 
 Wilkes, explorer, at the Paumotu 
 Group, i. 154 
 
 Wilkins, Colonel, designs Secre- 
 tariat at Bombay, ii. 243 
 
 Williamstown, ii. 35 ; torpedo 
 store, 48, 49 ; Sailors' Best, 60 ; 
 docks, 67 
 
 Willis, Bishop, of Honolulu, i. 175 
 
 Wilson, Sir Samuel, and the great 
 hall at-Melbourne University, ii. 
 65 
 
292 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Wilson's Promontory, ii. 68 
 
 Wiltshire Regiment at Peshawur, 
 i. 265 
 
 Wind charts, value of Admiralty, 
 i 66, 67 
 
 Windward Islands, sale to natives 
 of Crown Lands, ii. 189 
 
 Wines, Cape, at Port Elizabeth, ii. 
 157 
 
 Winton, Sir Francis de, and the 
 Yonnies expedition, ii. 167 
 
 Wodehouse, Mr., British Commis- 
 sioner at Honolulu, i. 176 
 
 Wood, Captain, his narrative of 
 early Spanish settlement at Fort 
 Famine, i. 131, 132 
 
 World, a cruise round the, in 1876- 
 1877 (' Nineteenth Century,' 
 1877-1878), i. 57; general out- 
 line of the voyage, 57-63 ; the 
 ' Sunbeam,' 63-65 ; weather, 
 navigation, lighthouses, nautical 
 instruments, sailing directions, 
 charts and other aids to naviga- 
 tion, 65-67 ; revolving storms, 
 the progress of science of meteor- 
 ology, and the laws governing 
 daily atmospheric changes con- 
 sidered, 68, 69 ; hardships of a 
 sailor's life : climatic changes, 
 heat and cold, 69, 70 ; the British 
 sailor, 70-73 ; visit to Madeira, 
 73, 74 ; Teneriffe, 74, 75 ; Eio 
 Janeiro, 76-97 ; the Eiver Plate, 
 97-118; through the Straits of 
 
 Magellan, 119-149 ; across the 
 
 Pacific, 150-182 
 Wright, Captain, of Brisbane, ii. 
 
 105, 106 
 WynbergJ military cantonment 
 
 at, ii. 160 
 
 Xaviee, St. Feancis, the tomb of, 
 at Goa, i. 294 
 
 Yachting, international contest 
 between ' Galatea ' and ' May- 
 flower,'i. 232-286 ; steam, ii. 176 
 
 Yarra Eiver, ii. 63, 64, 67 
 
 Yedo, Gulf of, i. 180, 181 
 
 Yellow fever at Eio de Janeiro, 
 i. 95, 96 ; precautions against, at 
 St. Lucia, ii. 193; at Havana, 205 
 
 Yokohama, i. 59, 60, 64, 65, 176, 
 181, 182 
 
 Yonnies, expedition against, ii. 167 
 
 Yorke, Cape (South Australia), ii. 
 20, 123 
 
 Yorke Island, ii. 146 
 
 Young, Mr., and the labour ques- 
 tion in Western Australia, i. 389 
 
 Zach peninsula, i. 136 
 
 Zagazig, fresh-water canal at, i. 38 
 
 ' Zealandia,' liner, i. 174 
 
 ' Zealous,' H.M.S., accident to, in 
 
 the English Narrows, i. 147 
 Zubal, Straits of, i. 61 
 Zulus, and the Government of 
 
 Cape Colony, ii. 162, 164 
 
 THE END. 
 
 SpoUiswoode £ Co, PniiferR, Neic-street Square^ London. 
 
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