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THE 
 
 VALLEY OF ANDORRA 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH, AND PRINTED 
 FOR PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION 
 
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 7 ^ 
 
 CAMBRIDGE 
 
 ^arintcB at tlje KttcrsiDe prrsfs; 
 
 1882 
 
 V 
 

 /-CORNELL 
 I UNIVERSITY 
 
 V J.J3RARV 
 
 y^'a-ii^ ^ "Scam ^omWi 
 
The greater part of the information con- 
 tained in this Httle volume has been kindly 
 furnished by Mr. J. F. Blad^, of Agen, 
 France. Mr. Blad^ is a man of learning, 
 ■who has made thorough researches into the 
 ancient history and geography of the val- 
 leys of the Pyrenees, and whose "Histoire 
 et Institutions de la Valine d'Andorre " will 
 be an elaborate and authentic work. 
 
 W. W. T. 
 
 Boston, Mass., U. S. A. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE SITUATION AND GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 ANDORRA. 
 
 Andorra is situated upon the southern 
 slope of the Pyrenees. Its northern limits 
 reach the mountainous portions of the French 
 Department of the Ari^ge, formerly a part 
 of the province of Foix ; on the east it is 
 bounded by France and Spain, on the south 
 and west by Spanish provinces. Its extent 
 from north to south is seventeen miles, and 
 its width varies from ten to eighteen miles. 
 No measurements have been made of its 
 area, and in consequence of the great irreg- 
 ularity of its surface it is impossible other- 
 wise to ascertain it. 
 
 Andorra is divided into six parishes, name- 
 ly, San Julia, Andorra- VieUla, Encamp, Ca- 
 
2 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 nillo, La Massana, and Ordino, and contains 
 not exceeding six thousand inhabitants. Its 
 two principal rivers are the northern and 
 eastern Valira. Both have their sources in 
 France, and, uniting near Andorra, the cap- 
 ital, form the Grand Valira, which flows 
 through the land of Urgel. 
 
 Several passages into the valleys connect 
 France with Andorra, although wild and lofty 
 mountains seem to form impenetrable bar- 
 riers between them. The preferable route is 
 from the Baths of Ax through M^rens to 
 Hospitalet. Soon after leaving the latter 
 place, the boundaries of Andorra are reached. 
 Mountains form the horizon on every side. 
 In front rise in imposing solitude inaccessible 
 peaks covered with snow, where the Ari^ge 
 has its origin. The traveller soon arrives at 
 the Pass of Fray Miguel, through which he 
 enters the valley. Following the circuitous 
 course of the eastern Valira, he soon reaches 
 Solden, a small settlement of a dozen houses. 
 Here General Calvo was born, one of the 
 most distinguished officers in the French 
 army during the reign of Louis XIV. The 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 3 
 
 next town on the route is Canillo, which 
 holds an important position in the valley on 
 account of the energy of the inhabitants in 
 their agricultural pursuits. A ride of two 
 hours brings the traveller to Encamp, which 
 contains an old-fashioned forge, and another 
 hour to Andorra-Vieilla, the capital of the 
 state. 
 
 The capital contains about six hundred 
 inhabitants. Its houses are constructed with- 
 out regularity, and with no regard to taste. 
 The Palace of the Government, or House of 
 the Valley, will attract the visitor's attention, 
 not by any architectural merits, but from the 
 fact that in it the Viguiers, the Judge of 
 Appeal, and the Bayles, administer justice, 
 and the General Council holds its meetings. 
 The first floor contains halls for the use of 
 the Viguiers and the Council, to which is 
 attached a small chapel. There is also a 
 dining-room, where the magistrates, while 
 officially occupied, take their meals at the 
 public expense. Lodging-rooms are pro- 
 vided for the use of those who live at a dis- 
 tance, and on the ground floor are stables 
 
4 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 for their horses and mules. In this building 
 is carefully preserved a journal of the acts of 
 the government since its formation, of which 
 a digest, called the Politar, was made in 1748 
 by Don Antonio Titer y Koussel. 
 
 We have thus far followed the eastern 
 Valira by the road — or more correctly 
 speaking the path, as there are no carriage 
 roads — which leads through the parishes of 
 Canillo, Encamp, and Andorra- Vieilla. 
 
 The valley of the northern Valira, or Or- 
 dino, as it is sometimes called, through which 
 flows the river of the same name, contains 
 the parishes of La Massana and Ordino. In 
 the latter there is a hot sulphur spring, which 
 has never been developed, similar in temper- 
 ature and qualities to the springs at Ax. 
 It was at this place that attempts, referred 
 to later, have been made to establish a 
 gambling house. 
 
 The mountains in this region are not less 
 wild than those of the eastern Valira, and 
 the magnificent scenery continues through 
 the length of the valley to its source. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 5 
 
 San Julia, the last of the six named par- 
 ishes into which the state is divided, is south 
 of the capital. It is beautifully situated, and 
 forms a striking contrast to the upper val- 
 leys, its natural characteristics harmonizing 
 with the fertile plains of Urgel, which it 
 joins. 
 
 While the approaches to Andorra from the 
 frontiers of France are impracticable during 
 half the year, access to it from Spain is unin- 
 terrupted at all seasons. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 EARLY HISTORY OF ANDORRA, AND A LIST OF SOME 
 OF THE PRINCIPAL BISHOPS OF URGEL, PRIOR TO 
 THE PAR^AGES IN 1278. 
 
 In early historic times the country now 
 known under the name of the Valley of 
 Andorra was included in the territory of the 
 Ilergetes, a people of Spain whom Ptolemy 
 places near the time of the Vascons. The 
 Ilergetes were conquered by Hannibal at the 
 same time as the Ansetans and the Bargu- 
 sians, 218 years b. c. They were after- 
 wards subdued by the Romans, and were 
 included in that part of Spain known as 
 Tarraconnaise. 
 
 The diocese of Urgel, of which Andorra 
 has always been and still is a dependency, 
 formed part of this territory. The history 
 of the diocese embraces the early days of the 
 valley, and its prelates became, after the 
 year 1278, joint sovereigns of the domain. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 7 
 
 Suggestions have been made in regard 
 to the etymology of the name Urgel. Some 
 thought it was found in the ancient Vergi, 
 of which Saint Ctesiphon was bishop ; but it 
 has been shown that Vergi corresponds to 
 the town of Berja, near Andral, in the Apu- 
 lajarras. The truth is that Urgel is the 
 ancient Orgia, which Ptolemy locates in the 
 land of the Ilergetes, and was the capital of 
 Cerretani Augustalis. 
 
 In the ninth century of our era the See of 
 Urgel was designated by the name of Vicus 
 Urgelli, and also Vicps Sanctse Miriae, on 
 account of the Cathedral of Urgel, which had 
 then been restored. It is evident from the 
 will of Ermengol III., Count of Urgel, that 
 the name Vicus was still in use in 1048 in 
 ancient Ansona, but it disappeared in the 
 tenth century from the country of Urgel, 
 whose capital was designated in documents 
 of that period as Sedes Urgelli. 
 
 The general belief in regard to the origin 
 of the bishopric of Urgel is that it existed at 
 the time of the Roman domination in Spain. 
 
8 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 When the See was destroyed by the Sara- 
 cens, in the eighth century, the prelates of 
 that city and of the other dioceses of the 
 Spanish Marches were under the jurisdiction 
 of the Archbishops of Narbonne till 1190, 
 when the archbishopric of Tarragona was 
 established. 
 
 There is no evidence of an interruption 
 of the series of Bishops of Urgel for any 
 length of time, in consequence of the occu- 
 pation of Spain by the Saracens. They 
 conquered Catalonia in 763, but in 786 the 
 Carlovingians were masters of Urgel (in 
 which the Valley of Andorra was included), 
 Ansonia, and other provinces, and the fol- 
 lowing year Felix was bishop. 
 
 Saint Justus ^ was Bishop of Urgel before 
 the year 527 and after 546. He is the 
 earliest incumbent of the office in regard to 
 whom there is no historic doubt. He be- 
 longed to a family of bishops, having had 
 two brothers in that position in Spain. He 
 subscribed to the second council at Toledo, 
 
 1 See Appendix A. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 9 
 
 which was held, according to some, in 524, 
 to others, in 546. 
 
 Felix was bishop in 783. He holds a con- 
 spicuous place in the history of that period 
 on account of his heretical views, for which 
 he was condemned and deposed by a council 
 held in 799. 
 
 Sisebutus was bishop in 840, in which 
 year the Cathedral of TJrgel, which had been 
 rebuilt after its destruction by the Saracens, 
 was consecrated with great ceremony. The 
 Emperor Louis le Debonnaire was repre- 
 sented by Count Suniepiedus, who liberally 
 endowed the church with landed estates. 
 
 Ermengol held the position of archdeacon 
 of the church in 1001, after the death of his 
 father, Bernardo, Viscount of Conflent, 
 brother of Salla, who was bishop in 1010. 
 In what year he succeeded his uncle is not 
 known, but he is supposed to have been his 
 coadjutor, with an agreement, through fam- 
 ily influence, that the succession should fall 
 to him. 
 
10 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 Ponce de Vilamiir, of the viscountal family 
 of that name, was cousin of Berenguer de 
 Eril, Bishop of L^rida, and of Bernardo de 
 Vilamur, Bishop of Urgel in 1203. At the 
 age of four or five years Ponce was made 
 canon by Bernardo, and was not more than 
 thirty-four when he was elected bishop in 
 1203. He adopted severe measures against 
 the heretical Albigeois, and maintained seri- 
 ous quarrels with the Count de Foix. He 
 died in 1257. 
 
 Pedro de Urg, Archdeacon of Prats, was 
 elected Bishop of Urgel November 12, 1269. 
 In March, 1270, this prelate, being at the mon- 
 astery of Bellpuig de las Avellanas, confirmed 
 the donations made to the religious society 
 in 1248 by Ponce de Vilamur. He was 
 present at two pi'ovincial councils in the 
 years 1278 and 1279, when it was determined 
 to make overtures to the Pope to obtain the 
 canonization of Saint Eaymond de Penafort, 
 and solemnized two synods, one in 1276 
 and the other in 1286. 
 
 On the 30th December, 1278, the decree 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 11 
 
 of arbitration between Pedro and Roger Ber- 
 nard, Count de Foix, as to their respective 
 rights in the valleys of Andorra, was an- 
 nounced. This decision, which will be re- 
 ferred to hereafter, is the foundation of the 
 political constitution of Andorra. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 ANDORRA UNDER THE CARLO VINGIAN DOMINATION AND 
 UNDER THE SUZERAINTY OF THE COUNTS OF URGEL. 
 
 In the act of consecration of the church 
 of Urgel in 840, Andorra is mentioned for 
 the first time in any of the public documents, 
 and is thus described : " In the land of Urgel 
 . . . the parishes of the Valley of Andorra, 
 namely : Lauredia (San Julia de Loria), 
 Andorra (Andorra-Vieilla), Santa Coloma, La 
 Massana, Ordino, Encamp." It will be no- 
 ticed that these localities are the same as the 
 present parishes, excepting Santa Coloma, 
 which became a vicarial chapel at a period 
 unknown. 
 
 Carlovingian traditions abound in Andorra, 
 among others that Charlemagne was lodged 
 in the Casa Berenguer, situated at the Puig 
 d'Olivesa, in the parish of San Julia ; also 
 that he was successful in a battle with the 
 Moors at the Serra de la Nor, in the parish of 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 13 
 
 Massana. At the right of the Pon Pla, in 
 the same parish, there is seen a stone which 
 is said to have been made hollow by a blow 
 from the sword of Charlemagne, into which 
 the oats for his horse were put. Between 
 Pon Pla and le Pon de San Antoni there is a 
 stone upon which the Emperor's footprints 
 are visible. Another tradition points out the 
 house at the Mas del Dumenge, in the parish 
 of Encamp, where Louis le Debonnaire so- 
 journed. Neither of these Emperors nor 
 Charles le Chauve ever went to Andorra, 
 but their influence, direct and indirect, gave 
 to the little state an existence, and the inde- 
 pendence which it now enjoys. 
 
 By a decree in 843 the Emperor Charles 
 le Chauve made a gift to Count Siefred ol 
 lands in the Marche of Spain, and also the 
 whole of the Valley of Andorra. From this 
 time the country of Urgel became hereditary, 
 and was under the jurisdiction of the French 
 sovereigns before forming part, with the rest 
 of Catalonia, of the domain of the Kings of 
 Aragon. 
 
14 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 Ermengol I.-' inherited from his father the 
 province of Urgel and that of Ansonia, which 
 he divided with his brother. This count 
 distinguished himself in fighting the Sara- 
 cens, and lost his life in a battle near Cordova, 
 in 1010. 
 
 Ermengol II. was still young at the death 
 of his father. He died in the Holy Land in 
 1040, leaving one son. 
 
 Ermengol HI. was only seven years old 
 when he succeeded his father under the guard- 
 ianship of his mother. He was killed in 
 1065, in the battle of Barbaste, fought against 
 the Saracens. 
 
 Ermengol IV., son of the preceding, died 
 in 1092, leaving one son by his first wife. 
 He married for the second time Adelaide, 
 daughter of Bertrand II., Count of Provence, 
 who inherited from her father the province 
 of Forcalquier. 
 
 1 For a complete list of the Counts of Urgel see Appen- 
 dix B. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 15 
 
 Ermengol V. took part in several expedi- 
 tions against the Saracens, and perished in 
 the year 1112, in an attempt to recover the 
 Isles BaMares. 
 
 Ermengol VI. died in 1154, leaving one son, 
 
 Ermengol VII., who, in the year 1162, by 
 a formal act, relinquished the custom, trans- 
 mitted by his ancestors, of taking possession 
 of the personal and landed estates of the 
 Bishops of Urgel. This custom was in other 
 places general, and authorized by feudal law. 
 In 1183 Ermengol went with his brother, 
 Gaucorand, to make war upon the Saracens 
 in the kingdom of Valencia, and both were 
 killed. 
 
 Ermengol VIII., son of the preceding, and 
 whose mother was the daughter of Raymond- 
 B^renger IV., Count of Provence, received 
 in 1185 the oath of fidelity of Arnaldo, Vis- 
 count of Castelbd and Cerdagna, constituting 
 the former a seigniory of Urge! In 1198 
 Ermengol and Eaymond-Roger, Count de 
 Foix, entered into war upon the question 
 
16 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 of the limits of their possessions. The Vis- 
 count of Castelbd sustained the claims of 
 Count de Foix. Hostilities ceased by a treaty 
 made at the instance of the King of Aragon, 
 in March, 12.08. Soon after Ermengol died, 
 leaving an only daughter named Aurembiax, 
 for whose hand there were many pretenders. 
 She married Pedro, Infant de Portugal, son 
 of King Sanche of Aragon, and died in 1231, 
 leaving all her estates to her husband. After 
 her death the province of Urgel passed to 
 the Kings of Aragon, who took in 1233 the 
 title of Suzerain of the country. Yet, it was 
 not long before Urgel was annexed to the 
 house of the Viscounts of Cabrera, in Cata- 
 lonia, represented by Geraldo, whose rights 
 descended to his son Pons, who died in 1243. 
 
 Ermengol IX., son of the preceding, died 
 in early infancy, and was succeeded by his 
 brother, 
 
 Eodrigue, who married Constance de Mon- 
 cada,, from whom he was divorced in 1236. 
 His second wife was Cecile, daughter of 
 Roger-Bernard II., Count de Foix. From 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 17 
 
 the first union there was born a daughter, 
 who married Sanche d'Antillon, and from 
 the second two sons, Ermengol and Alvare. 
 It was during the life of Rodrigue that the 
 agreement was made between Pedro d'Urg, 
 Bishop of Urgel, and Roger-Bernard, Count 
 de Foix, in regard to Andorra, to which al- 
 lusion has been made in a previous chapter. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 JOINT LORDS OF THE VALLEY UNTIL THE FRENCH 
 REVOLUTION. 
 
 LAY LORDS. 
 
 By the decree resulting from the arbitra- 
 tion in 1278, the sovereignty of the Valley 
 of Andorra belonged to the Counts de Foix 
 and the Bishops of the See of Urgel. 
 
 Eoger I.,-^ Count de Carcassonne, was the 
 first Count de Foix. He died in 1040, leav- 
 ing the province of Carcassonne to Eaymond, 
 his elder son, and the district of Foix to 
 Bernard, the younger. By various succes- 
 sions the inheritance of Foix fell to 
 
 Kaymond-Roger, who interested himself 
 in the war against the Albigeois, sometimes 
 with success, oftener with loss, and was ob- 
 liged at last to sue for peace. He married 
 
 1 For a list of the Counts de Foix see Appendix C. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 19 
 
 Philippine d'Aragon, daughter of the King 
 Don Pedro, and died in 1222. 
 
 Roger-Bernard II., son and successor of 
 the foregoing, married Ermengarde de Cas- 
 telbd, who brought to the house of Poix the 
 land of Castelb6, in which was embraced 
 the Valley of Andorra. It was thus that 
 Roger-Bernard II. and his successors became 
 possessed of rights in the valley granted to 
 their predecessors by the Counts of Urgel, 
 excepting those accorded by the said Counts 
 to the Bishops of the See. After the death 
 of the heiress of Castelbd Roger-Bernard 
 married Ermengarde de Narbonne. He died 
 in 1264, leaving a son and heir, 
 
 Roger-Bernard III. The rights in the 
 valley conceded by the Counts of Urgel to 
 various prelates of the See were incontest- 
 able. Equally so were the rights, purely 
 seignioral, which were not thus alienated, and 
 which passed to the house of Castelbd, of 
 which the heiress married Roger-Bernard II., 
 Count de • Poix. These involved and con- 
 flicting claims led to prolonged suits and 
 
20 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 wars, which were settled by arbitration in the 
 year 1278. The decree is known as the 
 Pareages. The document is long, and em- 
 braces many things foreign to our subject. 
 As far as Andorra is concerned, it decrees in 
 substance that its domain and jurisdiction 
 shall henceforth remain undivided between 
 the Bishops of Urgel and the Counts of Foix ; 
 that the former may raise a tax every other 
 year to the amount of four thousand Melgo- 
 rian sols ; ^ and that the following year the 
 Counts may levy a tribute at discretion. 
 Each joint lord shall appoint a Viguier as his 
 representative. These two magistrates shall 
 administer justice in common. If one is ab- 
 sent the other may act alone. The counts 
 shall receive three quarters of the amount 
 of fines and penalties of justice, and the 
 bishops the remaining quarter. 
 
 The rights of Roger-Bernard III. in the 
 Valley of Andorra, in accordance with the 
 Barrages in 1278, passed to his successors of 
 the first house of Foix, and then to the houses 
 of Grailly, of Albret, and of Bourbon. They 
 
 1 The sol is equal in value to a sou. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 21 
 
 were united to the Crown by the elevation 
 of Henry IV. to the throne of France, and 
 are exercised to-day by the chief of the 
 state. In course of time the discretionary 
 tribute levied by the Counts of Foix was 
 changed into a fixed sum, which, before the 
 year 1793, amounted to 1,920 francs, paya- 
 ble every two years. At the present time 
 Andorra pays annually to France 960 francs, 
 and to the See of Urgel 460 francs. 
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL LORDS.-^ 
 
 Guillermo de Moncada, of the Dominican 
 order, succeeded in 1293 as Bishop of Urgel 
 to Pedro de Urg, mentioned at the end of 
 Chapter II. He died in 1308. The succes- 
 sion continues in regular order to the choice, 
 in 1365, of 
 
 Pedro de Luna, a descendant of a distin- 
 guished family of Aragon, who, after the 
 death of the anti-Pope, Clement VII., was 
 chosen his successor by the factious Cardinals 
 of Avignon. He was followed in 1371 by 
 
 1 For a complete list, see Appendix D. 
 
22 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 Berengner de Eril, of a noble Catalonian 
 family, who was made Cardinal by Pope 
 Urban VI. in 1388, and died in 1391. 
 
 Galieran de Yillanova succeeded him in 
 1388, and distinguished himself by violently 
 opposing the attempts of a Count of Urgel 
 who wished to seize the district of Palhas. 
 He died in 1415, and was succeeded by 
 
 Francisco de Tovia, who was followed in 
 1457 by 
 
 Arnaldo-Roger de Palhas, who granted 
 many privileges to the chapter of the See, 
 and became, it is said. Patriarch of Alex- 
 andria. 
 
 Francisco Antonio de la Duena y€isneras 
 was made bishop in November, 1797, at the 
 period when the ancient relations between 
 Andorra and France were suppressed by the 
 Kevolution. 
 
 The series of bishops is unbroken during 
 the period of time embraced in this chapter, 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 23 
 
 and it comprises many learned, distinguished, 
 and devout men, who performed their duties 
 with honor to themselves and with advantasce 
 to the See. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 ANDOEEA FEOM THE FRENCH REVOLUTION TO THE 
 PRESENT TIME. 
 
 At the time of the Revolution, the Andor- 
 rans offered to the government of the 
 EepubHc the usual tribute. It was refused, 
 as being infected with feudalism, and the 
 relations between the valleys and France 
 continued interrupted. But many Andorrans 
 desiring a renewal of their former inter- 
 course, the authorities of the valleys in 1801 
 opened negotiations with the Prefect of the 
 Ari^ge to secure this object. They urged 
 the French nation to resume the ancient 
 rights which its kings had exercised over 
 their country. They asked in exchange but 
 two things : the protection of France and 
 the acceptance of a fixed sum, which would 
 free them from the payment of custom- 
 house dues. They requested the appoint- 
 ment of a French Viguier and a resumption 
 of all the relations existing before the 
 Revolution. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 25 
 
 The petition of the Andorran commis- 
 sioners was forwarded to Bonaparte, then 
 First Consul, by the Minister of the Interior. 
 In the month of March, 1806, the following 
 decree was issued : — 
 
 " In regard to the petition of the inhab- 
 itants of the Valley of Andorra to be rein- 
 stated in their former police and commer- 
 cial relations with France, we have decreed 
 and now order the following : — 
 
 "Article I. There shall be appointed, 
 upon the nomination of the Minister of the 
 Interior, a Viguier selected from the Depart- 
 ment of the Ariege, who, in connection with 
 the Viguier of the Bishop of Urgel, shall be 
 present at the Cortes or the courts of jus- 
 tice of the Valley of Andorra, and who shall 
 use all the privileges that conventions or 
 custom have conferred upon the office, 
 whether in the performance of its regular 
 duties, or in the appointment of Bayles, who 
 administer justice in civil cases. 
 
 " Article II. The Receiver General of 
 the Department of the Ariege shall receive 
 
26 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 annually the sum of 960 francs, which the 
 Valley of Andorra paid to France before the 
 Revolution, and shall account for it to the 
 public treasury. 
 
 '' Article III. Permission is granted to 
 the Andorrans to import each year the quan- 
 tity of grain and the number of cattle that 
 the decree of the Council of 1767 allowed 
 them to take from us, and proper precaution 
 shall be used to ascertain that the grain and 
 the cattle shall be consumed by the inhab- 
 itants. 
 
 " Article IV. Three deputies of Andorra 
 shall annually make oath before the Prefect 
 of the Department of the Ari^ge, who is 
 authorized by these presents to receive it. 
 
 " Article V. Our Ministers of the Inte- 
 rior, of Finance, and of Foreign Relations 
 are charged, in their respective departments, 
 with the execution of this decree. 
 
 (Signed) Napoleon." 
 
 The French government then prepared a 
 list of the provisions and live stock that the 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 27 
 
 people of the valleys might have the right to 
 import free of duty, upon condition that they 
 should pass under the inspection of the 
 custom-house at Ax. The list embraced 
 1,000 loads of grain, 30 loads of vegetables, 
 1,200 sheep, 40 cows, 200 hogs, 30 mules, 20 
 horses, 20 mares, 1,080 kilogrammes of pow- 
 der, 2,160 kilogrammes of salt fish, and 150 
 pieces of linen. 
 
 The two documents above referred to were 
 sent to the authorities of Andorra, who im- 
 mediately despatched delegates to the Pre- 
 fect of the Ari^ge to take the oath required 
 by Article IV. of the decree of 1806. Joseph 
 Pilher was the first Viguier appointed. It 
 is proper to add that the Bishop of Urgel 
 then in office did everything in his power 
 to secure the renewal of the relations be- 
 tween France and Andorra. 
 
 From a careful examination of documents 
 it appears that from 1808 to 1813 the val- 
 leys were never disturbed by the war be- 
 tween France and Spain. The belligerents 
 were of accord in respecting the territory, 
 
28 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 the occupation of which would have been 
 really of no military advantage to either 
 party. 
 
 After the first fall of Napoleon I. the An- 
 dorran delegates took oath before the Mar- 
 quis of Nicolai, Prefect of the Ari^ge under 
 Louis XVIII., but there is no evidence that 
 the formality was observed during the period 
 of the Hundred Days. 
 
 During the civil wars in Spain, in the latter 
 part of the reign of Ferdinand VII., the neu- 
 trality of Andorra was more than once vio- 
 lated by the royal troops as well as by the 
 rebel soldiers. It was the same during the 
 first Carlist war, and after the rights of 
 Charles X. in the valley passed into the 
 hands of Louis Philippe by the Revolution 
 of July, 1830. During this war the Bishop 
 of Urgel, joint lord of the valley, took part 
 with Don Carlos, and consequently became 
 an exile in France, where he died in the 
 Seminary of Montpellier. 
 
 In 1848 the powers of Louis Philippe in 
 Andorra passed to the government of the 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 29 
 
 second French Republic, thence to Napoleon 
 III. when he became Emperor of the French, 
 and are now represented by the President of 
 the Republic. 
 
 The peaceful life of the valleys was greatly 
 disturbed by political agitations from 1866 
 to 1868, and in the years 1880 and 1881. 
 They originated in the unscrupulous and 
 persistent efforts of speculators to obtain 
 modifications of the constitution which would 
 enable them to secure the right to establish 
 a casino and gambling house in the territory. 
 The growth of Hamburg and Baden-Baden 
 in former days and the wonderful results at 
 Monaco at the present time were brought to 
 the knowledge of the simple people, many 
 of whom were allured, by visions of an influx 
 of gold and an easy acquisition of wealth, to 
 favor the project. Thus far the attempt has 
 failed, but if it is renewed and obtains tem- 
 porary success, the inhabitants should remem- 
 ber that the policy of France is opposed to 
 public gambling, and as long as that nation 
 continues to hold the position of joint sov- 
 ereign of the valley its permanent existence 
 
30 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 there would not be tolerated. Nor is it to 
 be supposed that the Bishop of XJrgel would 
 permit the introduction of a system so im- 
 moral in its tendency, and so debasing in its 
 practices.^ 
 
 ^ It is more than probable, that ignorance on the part of 
 the present generation of Andorrans, of their constitutional 
 and other political duties, and a forgetfulness on the part of 
 the governments of the protecting states of their easy re- 
 sponsibilities, have permitted the attempts, referred to above, 
 to gain a dangerous headway. With a full knowledge of 
 their obligations, the people would not require the enforce- 
 ment of law. In order to obtain this desirable end, let 
 France take the initiative in the matter, and authorize Mr. 
 Blade' to write the history and explain the public law of 
 Andorra. No man is better prepared for the work, which 
 would be greatly to the advantage of all the parties in in- 
 terest. T. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE POLITICAL INSTITUTIONS OF THE VALLEY. 
 
 As stated in the preceding chapter, the 
 French Republic in 1793 refused to continue 
 its then existing relations with Andorra, for 
 the reason that they partook too much of 
 the feudal system. In the decree of March 
 27, 1806, reestablishing their intercourse, 
 it was provided that, in consideration of 
 certain custom-house immunities, Andorra 
 should annually pay to France the sum of 
 960 francs. 
 
 After the Spanish revolution of 1808, the 
 Cortes realized, in 1810, the necessity of uni- 
 fying Spain, and abolished the following year 
 the feudal system. 
 
 The public law, modified in 1806 and 1811, 
 was intended to change the nature of the 
 relations existing between the three states. 
 Since those dates the governments of France 
 
32 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 and Spain have made several covenants with 
 the valley, and have thus recognized in An- 
 dorra a distinct political existence. This 
 country, then, may be regarded as a small 
 state, in which protection has been substi- 
 tuted for feudalism, and which is deprived 
 of what writers on international law desig- 
 nate as exterior sovereignty. Its limited inde- 
 pendence takes from it the power of con- 
 cluding diplomatic treaties, of accrediting 
 ambassadors and plenipotentiaries, and of 
 performing other sovereign acts. 
 
 The principle of the constitution and gov- 
 ernment of Andorra is derived from the 
 decree of the Barrages of 1278, more or less 
 modified by changes in public law, which 
 progress has made necessary. 
 
 The undivided sovereignty of the valley 
 exists in the chief of the French state and 
 the Bishop of Urgel, represented by their 
 respective Viguiers. The incumbent on the 
 part of France is taken from the Department 
 of the Ari^ge, and is appointed for life, while 
 the Viguier of the bishop must be an An- 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 33 
 
 dorran, and holds office during three years, 
 at the end of which time he is reeUgible. 
 
 THE VIGTJIERS. 
 
 The arbitrators in 1278, recognizing the 
 impossibihty of the personal presence of the 
 joint sovereigns in Andorra, decreed that 
 they should be represented by Viguiers, who 
 were clothed with the legislative, judicial, 
 and executive authority belonging to the 
 sovereigns, and who were empowered to ap- 
 point the necessary officers to execute their 
 acts. They also command the militia. In 
 the performance of their duties they are re- 
 quired to respect the rights, privileges, and 
 customs, written and unwritten, of the valley. 
 
 The authorities of Andorra are composed, 
 independently of the Viguiers, of 
 
 1st. The General Council, consisting of 
 twenty-four members, being four from each 
 parish, and also of parish councils. 
 
 2d. Of a Syndic General, assisted by a 
 second and often by a third Syndic, charged 
 
34 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 with the execution of the decisions of the 
 Assembly, and with the general interests of 
 the valley. 
 
 3d. Of two Bayles, inhabitants of Andorra, 
 one appointed by the French Viguier, the 
 other by the Viguier of the Bishop of Urgel. 
 
 4th. Of a Judge of Appeal, chosen for 
 life, alternately by France and the Bishop 
 of Urgel. 
 
 5th. Of several notaries and clerks. 
 
 6th. Of Auditors for each parish, chosen 
 by the heads of families. 
 
 7th. Of police agents and bailiffs, appointed 
 by the General Council. 
 
 All these functionaries, before taking of&ce, 
 make oath before the First Syndic, in pres- 
 ence of the General Council, to perform their 
 respective duties conscientiously and to the 
 best of their ability. 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 35 
 
 To be qualified for public service, or to be 
 an elector, it is necessary to be an Andorran, 
 the head of a family, resident of a parish, of 
 good character and sound judgment. 
 
 THE GENERAL COUNCIL. 
 
 The General Council is composed of a 
 senior and junior Consul from each parish, 
 and of two delegates chosen by heads of 
 families. It controls the administration of 
 parish councils, and appoints all officers 
 of government except the Viguiers, the 
 Bayles, and the Judge of Appeal, of which 
 the choice belongs to the joint sovereigns. 
 It has cognizance of all matters of adminis- 
 tration and of police, of roads, fishing, hunt- 
 ing, public works, etc., and decides upon all 
 contentions relating to these matters. It 
 watches over the observance of all laws and 
 measures of public interest. The Council is 
 divided into three sections. The first, com- 
 posed of six members, of which one is taken 
 from each parish, decides in the first instance 
 upon matters in dispute. The second sec- 
 tion, also of six members, sits as a court of 
 appeal and of last resort upon all questions 
 
36 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 within its jurisdiction. The third section is 
 composed of the remaining twelve members^. 
 The acts and votes of the General Council 
 as well as of the parish councils, are public. 
 The General Council appoints as secretary 
 one of the notaries, who is thought to be the 
 best informed in the usages arid customs of 
 the country and in the ancient documents, 
 which it may be necessary to consult. Mem- 
 bers of the Council have the title of " Very 
 Illustrious." 
 
 THE SYNDIC GENERAL. 
 
 This officer and a second and third Syndic 
 are appointed by the General Council, and 
 are selected from the most competent and 
 distinguished men in the country. He (or, 
 in case of necessity, one of his substitutes) 
 presides over the Council, causes its decisions 
 to be put in execution, and represents it in 
 matters of every nature. He issues pass- 
 ports, certifies the product of merchandise 
 exported from Andorra, keeps the seals of 
 state, administers the public funds, and con- 
 vokes extraordinary meetings of the Council 
 in case of necessity. He has the right to the 
 title of " Very Illustrious Seignior." 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 37 
 
 THE BAYLES. 
 
 Each of the joint sovereigns appoints a 
 Bayle, selected from a list of six candidates 
 submitted by the General Council. The 
 term of office is three years. The Bayles 
 have cognizance in the court of first instance 
 of all civil cases, in which their decision is 
 final, if the parties do not appear before the 
 Judge of Appeal within a period of thirteen 
 days. They obtain the preliminary informa- 
 tion in criminal affairs, which they transmit 
 at once to the Viguiers. They can also im- 
 pose fines, and can require, if necessary, the 
 aid of the armed force to make domiciliary 
 visits for the arrest of criminals. They are 
 assisted, as judges, by a notary performing 
 the duties of clerk, and by a sufficient num- 
 ber of bailiffs, who are appointed by the 
 Council. The title of Bayles is " Honorable 
 Seignior." 
 
 JUDGE OF APPEAL. 
 
 This officer, generally a French or Span- 
 ish lawyer, is appointed for life, alternately 
 by the chief of the French state and the 
 
38 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 Bishop of Urgel. He has cognizance of all 
 the decisions, on appeal, made by the Bayles 
 in the court of first instance. For this pur- 
 pose the papers relating to the case are sent 
 to him, and he selects at discretion a clerk to 
 aid him. If the parties are not satisfied with 
 his decision, they may, in the third and last 
 resort, appeal to the joint sovereigns, who 
 appoint a distinguished jurist to act in their 
 name. The expense of the appeal prevents 
 its general adoption. The Judge of Appeal 
 is present at the courts convened by the 
 Viguiers, and acts as assessor. His title is 
 " Magnificent Seignior." 
 
 NOTARIES. 
 
 In principle the Notaries are appointed in 
 equal numbers by each of the joint sover- 
 eigns, but in fact, they are nearly always se- 
 lected by the Bishop of Urgel, upon the 
 recommendation of the Council. 
 
 BAILIFFS. 
 
 The attributes of these officers afe very 
 nearly the same as those in corresponding 
 positions in the tribunals of France and 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 39 
 
 Spain, and they are required to summon the 
 members of the General Council, and to 
 cause its dignity to be respected. 
 
 AUDITORS. 
 
 These officers, formerly called contadores, 
 and now elected, instead of being appointed, 
 one for each district, make a valuation of the 
 resources of the inhabitants, and prepare a 
 list of the portion that each family should 
 contribute for the public expenses. 
 
 ARCHIVES. 
 
 The archives of the state are for the most 
 part kept in the " House of the Valley," in 
 Andorra-Vieilla, the capital. To open the 
 place of deposit, the consent of the Syndic 
 and of the First Consul of each parish is 
 necessary, each one having a key to different^ 
 locks. The ancient documents of Andorra 
 are written in Latin, French, Castilian, or 
 in Catalonian, which is the official language 
 of the country. 
 
 RAHONADORS. 
 
 These officers, two in number, are ap- 
 
40 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 pointed by the General Council to attend the 
 courts, and to see that the Viguiers and the 
 Judge of Appeal, in making their decisions, 
 preserve the customs and privileges of the 
 valley. They also offer extenuating circum- 
 stances, if any exist, in mitigation of punish- 
 ments of persons on trial. 
 
 PARISH COUNCILS. 
 
 The Parish Council is composed of a first 
 and second Consul, assisted by twelve coun- 
 cillors, elected by the heads of families in the 
 parish. Each council appoints an officer, 
 called mostasa, who supervises the slaughter 
 houses, verifies the correctness of instruments 
 for weighing and measuring, etc. The coun- 
 cils in their respective parishes, subject to 
 the control of the General Council, collect 
 taxes, appropriate the revenues, regulate the 
 use of pasturage, and keep in order the public 
 buildings and roads. To be eligible to the 
 office of councillor a man must be a landed 
 proprietor, or be engaged in some industrial 
 pursuit. The councils inflict fines or other 
 punishments upon those \vho disregard their 
 decisions. They meet six times a year at 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 41 
 
 stated periods, and as much oftener as the 
 public interest requires. 
 
 THE AEMED FORCE. 
 
 The militia of the valley consists of all 
 citizens capable of bearing arms, of whom 
 a certain number are obliged to be provided 
 with guns and ammunition. The Viguiers 
 have the command of the armed force, and 
 the Bayles are their lieutenants. The latter 
 review the troops as often as once in each 
 year, and inflict fines upon those whose 
 equipments do not conform to the legal re- 
 quirements. The General Council, annually, 
 subject to the approbation of the Viguiers, 
 appoints in each parish a captain,, and as 
 many subaltern officers as the size of the 
 force renders necessary. Under urgent cir- 
 cumstances the Syndic General, the Bayles, 
 and the Parish Councils can call out the 
 militia, especially when they have occasion 
 to enforce their authority or the orders of 
 the General Council, or to insure public 
 safety. They also have the right to use the 
 armed force to arrest malefactors or other 
 offenders against the law. The militia re- 
 
42 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 ceive no pay, but when employed in pursu- 
 ing, arresting, or guarding malefactors a 
 compensation is allowed them at the expense 
 of the delinquents. 
 
 THE COURTS. 
 
 Criminals are proceeded against either by 
 indictment, by information, or by notice from 
 the office of the judge. As before stated, 
 the Bayles, in cases of urgency, take the ini- 
 tiative in the prosecution, which is continued 
 by the Viguiers. If the crime is punishable 
 by death, imprisonment for life, or a definite 
 period, the Viguier notifies his colleague, and 
 they unite in giving direction for a meeting 
 of the courts. They also inform the Syndic 
 General of the day and hour, and request 
 him to have everything in readiness for the 
 occasion. The Bayles, accompanied by a 
 body of soldiers, go out to meet the Viguiers, 
 and escort them to the capital. The Judge 
 of Appeal is notified, and arrives, in charge 
 of a committee specially appointed for the 
 purpose. 
 
 On the day, and at the hour fixed upon, 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 43 
 
 the General Council assembles, and sends a 
 deputation to the Viguiers and the Judge of 
 Appeal to receive and conduct them to their 
 places. The First Viguier, that of France, 
 or, in his absence, the Episcopal Viguier, ex- 
 plains the reasons for calling together the 
 courts, which, in compliance with his request, 
 are at once formally organized for business. 
 It has been stated that the power to inflict 
 fines exists in several of the political depart- 
 ments of Andorra. These punishments are 
 entered upon the records, and are referred 
 to the courts and the General Council, who 
 confirm those which they consider just, and 
 annul the others. Sometimes the courts 
 substitute pecuniary fines for other punish- 
 ments. All these decisions are inscribed 
 upon a register, which is in the hands of the 
 Council. The oflfenders who are subjected 
 to fines are bound to furnish security for 
 their payment, and the money thus received 
 is applicable to the expenses incurred by the 
 meeting of the courts. Notices emanating 
 from the courts and the Council are sub- 
 mitted to the approbation of the Viguiers 
 before their communication to the public. 
 
44 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 Thus, all parties interested are informed, by 
 means of written publications affixed to the 
 communal house of each parish, that the 
 courts are in session to render civil and crim- 
 inal justice. 
 
 During the sessions the Bayles and the 
 Judge of Appeal act upon matters within 
 their respective jurisdictions. 
 
 When punishment of death, or of impris- 
 onment for life or for a definite period, has 
 been pronounced, the sentence is solemnly 
 read to the condemned in the grand square 
 of the capital by the clerk of the courts, who 
 is also a notary of the valley. The Viguiers, 
 the Judge of Appeal, the Syndics, the Gen- 
 eral Council, the Bayles, and a great con- 
 course of people are present at the ceremony. 
 Order is preserved by the militia. 
 
 When a sentence of death is to be ex- 
 ecuted (which is a rare event), a French, 
 Spanish, or some other foreign executioner 
 is engaged for the service, and is protected 
 by a file of soldiers while he remains in the 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 45 
 
 country. The garrote is the system em- 
 ployed for executions. 
 
 Those who are sentenced to penal servi- 
 tude serve their terms in France or in Spain. 
 
 The courts are held at least once each 
 year, and are called together as much oftener 
 as the public interest requires. At the close 
 of a session the Viguiers and Judge of Ap- 
 peal are escorted out of the capital with the 
 same ceremony as when they arrived. 
 
 SEAL OP STATE. 
 
 The seal of the Viguiers, of which a fac- 
 simile appears upon the title-page, is a quar- 
 tering of the mitre and crozier of Urgel, 
 the bars of Catalonia, and the cows of the 
 House of Beam, — the whole bearing as a 
 crest the crown of Marquis. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CLIMATE, ANIMALS, FLORA, AGRICULTURE, INDUSTRIES, 
 COMMERCE, MONUMENTS AND ANTIQUITIES, POPULA- 
 TION. 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 The climate of Andorra is the same as 
 that of the other valleys of western Cata- 
 lonia, similarly situated. After the end of 
 autumn, the snow which covers the moun- 
 tains renders communication with France 
 sometimes impossible and always difficult, 
 if not dangerous. Towards the end of April, 
 the passes become practicable, and continue 
 so during the summer and the early part of 
 the autumn. From the month of Jime to 
 the middle of September the heat is excess- 
 ive, particularly in the lower part of the 
 country, and in the winter the cold is very 
 severe. 
 
 MINERAL AND WARM SPRINGS. 
 
 The soil of the valley is very rich in iron 
 ore, and consequently its waters are salubri- 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 47 
 
 ous. The warm and mineral springs have 
 not been carefally investigated, although 
 they exist in abundance. Among the iron 
 springs, the best are to be found in the par- 
 ishes of Ordino and Massana. The village 
 of Escaldes possesses vparm and hot springs 
 of sulphur, pure and in various combina- 
 tions. 
 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 Bears -were formerly numerous, but are 
 now rare. Those that are occasionally killed 
 in the highest part of the parish of Massana 
 come generally from the mountains of Pal- 
 las. Wild boars are no longer found, but 
 wolves have, unfortunately, not disappeared. 
 Foxes, sables, hares, and rabbits are abun- 
 dant, and izards live on the summits of the 
 mountains. Eagles, vultures, and other birds 
 of prey are not rare. In the proper seasons 
 are found a great variety of birds, such as 
 wood-cock, partridges, snipe, wild geese 
 and ducks, and quails in quantities. Fine 
 trout are taken in the ponds, streams, and 
 rivers, and eels in the Grand Valira. 
 
48 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 FLOKA. 
 
 No complete list of the plants of Andorra 
 has been made. Among the most interest- 
 ing which botanists have gathered is the 
 Cisius laiirifolius, which grows in abundance 
 upon the rocks near the village of Andorra- 
 Vieilla. The Coronilla varia, the Euphrasia lini- 
 folia, and the Galium maritimum are also found. 
 On the road between Canillo and Encamp 
 the Santolina pedinata, one of the rare plants 
 of the Pyrenees, grows, and near the latter 
 village the Centranthus aiigustifolius and the 
 Parenchia polygonifolia and serpyllifolia are 
 gathered. 
 
 AGRICULTURE. 
 
 There is much more uncultivated than 
 cultivated land in Andorra. The larger 
 portion of it is public property, and is farmed 
 out. In the forests of the north are found 
 the birch, the pine, and the fir tree. Com- 
 mon oaks and evergreens abound in the 
 south. In addition to beasts of burden, 
 which are fed in the private and public pas- 
 tures, there are large quantities of breeding 
 animals of different races, herds of goats and 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 49 
 
 young mules. The latter are generally sold 
 in Spain when they are old enough to work. 
 While the raising of animals predominates 
 as an occupation, the culture of land is not 
 neglected. The best soil, situated in the 
 valleys and dales, is generally reserved as 
 meadows, which are well manured and 
 watered. The hay produced from these 
 grounds is stored to feed the animals which 
 are kept in barns during the winter. The 
 more hardy beasts are driven to Catalonia, 
 to find in the warm climate of the valley 
 of the Segre protection against the cold 
 season. 
 
 The arable lands often obtained on the 
 mountain slopes by incessant labor produce 
 wheat, rye, potatoes, beans, peas, and other 
 vegetables, and tobacco, the culture and 
 commerce of which are free in the valleys. 
 This culture has lately been in such favor in 
 Andorra, especially in the southern part, 
 that the cereal products, which were scarcely 
 sufficient for the consumption of the inhab- 
 itants, are seriously diminished. A portion of 
 the tobacco crop is used in the country, and 
 
 4 
 
50 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 the rest passes into Spain. The mountains 
 produce spontaneously excellent strawber- 
 ries and raspberries as well as nuts. The 
 rigor of the winter climate does not permit 
 the culture of the vine. Walnut and chest- 
 nut trees are quite plentiful in the parish of 
 San Julia, and apple trees are abundant in 
 Ordino. 
 
 INDUSTRIES. 
 
 The industries of Andorra are very lim- 
 ited. In some places, the streams are util- 
 ized by saw-mills, which cut into boards and 
 joists the trees brought down from the 
 mountains, where charcoal is also made. 
 The surplus of these products is exported to 
 Catalonia and France. In the villages of 
 Encamp, Escaldes, and San Julia a certain 
 number of weavers live, whose trade is trans- 
 mitted from father to son. With the woollen 
 yarn which the women spin during the 
 winter's leisure time these workmen weave 
 druggets and coarse cloth in various colors. 
 There are three forges in the country, of 
 which two are in Ordino and one in Encamp. 
 They are supplied with ore from the moun- 
 tain of Eansol, and with charcoal made in 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 51 
 
 the valley from pine and fir tree wood. 
 There exists in the parish of Encamp a mine 
 of argentiferous lead, which has never been 
 worked, but is thought capable of very good 
 results. 
 
 COMMERCE. 
 
 As there are no carriage roads in the 
 valleys, the commerce is transacted upon 
 the backs of mules and horses. Money of 
 Spain circulates there more than that of 
 France. The inhabitants, in their inter- 
 course with France and Spain, enjoy immu- 
 nities from customs' dues acknowledged as 
 privileges or conceded by conventions. In a 
 summary manner, it may be stated that 
 Andorra exports to Spain, regularly or by 
 contraband, mules, horses, cattle, sheep, 
 goats, hogs, and donkeys, charcoal, boards, 
 tobacco, hams, and cheese, woollen yarn and 
 coarse cloth. Except the animals, of which 
 the larger part come from France origi- 
 nally, the products enumerated are Andorran. 
 Spain sends to the valley wine, oil, cereals, 
 fruits, chocolate, sugar, salt, some silks, and 
 many small objects. The exports to France 
 consist of skins, beasts of burden, game, lum- 
 
52 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 ber, etc., and the imports from that country 
 are printed cottons, hardware, grain, vege- 
 tables, spices, salt fish, linen, etc. 
 
 MONUMENTS AND ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 No vestiges of a prehistoric period have 
 been discovered in Andorra. Several French 
 and Spanish historians state that there ex- 
 isted in their day an iron ring fastened upon 
 the summit of the Puig de Altavaca, and 
 another upon the crest of the mountain of 
 Fontargente. More recent writers, assert 
 that in their day only the vestiges of the 
 rings remained. Different origins were at- 
 tributed to them ; one, that they were tro- 
 phies of Pompey; another, that they were 
 placed there by order of the Emperor Gal- 
 lienus; others still trace them to Louis le 
 Debonnaire. All these opinions have their 
 supporters now, and many Andorrans will 
 tell you that the famous rings exist, or at 
 least that the place where they were found 
 is easily recognized. The truth is, recent 
 researches have failed to discover the rings 
 or the place. There is no doubt of their ex- 
 istence in the seventeenth century, and it is 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 53 
 
 probable that they were intended to indicate 
 boundaries. Andorra pretends to possess 
 two monuments of a period contemporaneous 
 with the Saracenic occupation, — the square 
 towers of Meca in Ordino and of Seca in 
 San Julia. It would seem evident from the 
 fact that the towers present no features of 
 Moorish architecture, that their construction 
 must have been far more recent than the 
 time when the Moors held sway over the 
 north of Spain. The specimens of ecclesi- 
 astical architecture, more or less ancient, are 
 not worthy of special attention. In the vil- 
 lage of Fontaneda, belonging to the parish 
 of San Julia, the ruins of a house are shown 
 which is supposed to have been occupied by 
 Saint Ermengol, Bishop of the See, from 
 1010 to 1035. Near the village of Bons, in 
 the parish of Encamp, are seen the remains 
 of a square tower called Torre de Eossell. 
 Some writers think it belonged to the Vis- 
 counts of Castelbo, but furnish no proof of it. 
 At any rate, it was built with great care, and 
 water from a neighboring mountain was con- 
 veyed by a subterranean canal to different 
 parts of the edifice. 
 
54 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 There is no exact way of ascertaining the 
 population of Andorra. Registers of births, 
 marriages, and deaths are kept by the clergy, 
 but they do not serve the purpose of an offi- 
 cial census. Many inhabitants leave the 
 country to seek their fortune as tradesmen 
 or workmen in France or Spain with the ex- 
 pectation of returning. Others are employed 
 in driving cattle and sheep to the Eibera de 
 Urgel, to avoid the rigorous winter climate 
 of Andorra, and in taking care of them while 
 there. The ecclesiastical record does not 
 indicate the return of these citizens. An 
 estimate of the population, made with great 
 care, gives the following result : — 
 
 Parish of San Julia 1,000 
 
 Andorra-Vieilla ....... 1,100 
 
 Encamp 700 
 
 Canillo 1,100 
 
 La Massana 1,000 
 
 Ordino 900 
 
 Total 5,800 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 55 
 
 FINANCES. 
 
 The budget of national receipts in An- 
 dorra is chiefly composed of sums obtained 
 from public pasturage, personal taxes, and 
 the sale of communal trees. 
 
 The larger part of the wealth of the val- 
 ley is undoubtedly in the forests and pastures 
 which it possesses on the mountains. They 
 are divided' into two portions, — those held 
 in common, and those belonging to the state. 
 
 The communal pastures are divided into 
 quarters, each of which is appropriated to 
 the use of one or more parishes, according 
 to population. A " Council of the Quarter " 
 is chosen, whose duty it is to see that the 
 distribution is justly made. 
 
 The forests are wholly communal, each 
 parish receiving its distinct share under 
 proper regulation. If the wood thus ob- 
 tained is more than sufficient for their con- 
 sumption, the excess is sold, and the proceeds 
 are paid into the national treasury. 
 
56 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 The public pastures consist of land upon 
 the mountains bordering on Spain. These 
 are annually leased to shepherds from Urgel, 
 who send their sheep from the summer's heat 
 of that country to the fresh mountain land. 
 
 In addition to these sources of revenue, 
 a capitation tax of one real (five cents) for 
 each inhabitant, a tax upon income, and a 
 tax upon the number of cattle one may pos- 
 sess are imposed. 
 
 The amount of these assessments is deter- 
 mined by the General Council, under whose 
 authority the parish councils collect them. 
 
 The proceeds, although small, are always 
 in excess of the annual disbursements, which 
 consist of ecclesiastical expenses, the civil 
 administration, and public works. 
 
 Andorra has no national debt. 
 
CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 RELIGION. .EDUCATION. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 
 RELIGION. 
 
 Andorra is included in the Spanish diocese 
 of Urgel. All the inhabitants of the valley 
 are devout Roman Catholics, although they 
 are tolerant towards strangers temporarily 
 residing in the country who have a different 
 faith. 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 In a country for the most part composed 
 of shepherds and tillers of the soil, the time 
 necessary for studies is occupied in labor. 
 Yet the opportunity of instruction is gratu- 
 itously offered to all who wish to avail of it. 
 In each parish a primary school is kept by 
 the vicar, in which reading and writing are 
 taught, and in several parishes young men 
 may obtain preliminary instruction in law, 
 medicine, or the church. 
 
58 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 The Andorrans are strongly attached to 
 their traditional habits, and are opposed 
 to innovations. They are charitable and 
 hospitable to the extent of their means, the 
 houses of the rich being freely and gratui- 
 tously open to the traveller who seeks food 
 or shelter. 
 
 They have great curiosity to know what is 
 going on in the world about them, but when 
 questioned in regard to their own aflfairs they 
 are at once reserved and reticent. This pe- 
 culiarity is so well understood in Catalonia 
 that it has become a proverb there, and when 
 a man professes ignorance of a matter of 
 which he has full knowledge he is said to be 
 " playing the Andorran." 
 
 In spite of their extreme prudence and 
 great love of money, the Andorrans are free 
 from malice, and are faithful to their word. 
 
 They discourage facilities of intercourse 
 with the outer world which might attract 
 
THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 59 
 
 strangers as permanent residents in their 
 country, whose sterile soil barely supports 
 its present population. 
 
 Hunting is the favorite amusement of 
 those wlio are of an age to take part in it. 
 The people are also very fond of making 
 excursions to chapels and churches on saints' 
 days. For this purpose families start to- 
 gether to attend mass. At the close of the 
 religious services a repast is served in the 
 open air. When this is finished, dancing 
 begins to the music of the bagpipe or tam- 
 bourine, during which the parents talk over 
 the events of the day, and sometimes arrange 
 marriages between the youthful members of 
 the company. 
 
 Each village has its protecting saint, and 
 celebrates annually its fete day by a religious 
 ceremony as brilliant as the resources of the 
 place permit, followed by a discharge of mus- 
 ketry, feasting, and dancing. 
 
 Baptisms and marriages are always made 
 an occasion of festive pleasures. 
 
60 THE VALLEY OF ANDORRA. 
 
 The carnival, with its masquerades and 
 games and sports, is a great source of amuse- 
 ment. 
 
 In the solitude of their gloomy valleys the 
 Andorrans live now as they have lived dur- 
 ing many centuries, industrious in their mo- 
 notonous labor, happy in their simple pleas- 
 ures and in the belief that they enjoy "le 
 but de toute society ; le bien-etre de tous 
 par tous." 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 LIST OF THE BISHOPS OP I7EGEL, FROM AUTHENTIC 
 SOURCES. 
 
 Saint Justus before 527 and after 546. 
 
 Simplicius before 589 and after 599. 
 
 Eanarius was living in 633. 
 
 Maurellus 653 to 683. 
 
 Leubericus 683 to 693. 
 
 Urbicius 700 to 704. ' 
 
 Marcellus 705 to 721. 
 
 Justus 722 to 733. 
 
 Ludericus 735 to 754. 
 
 Stepbanus 755 to 765. 
 
 Dotila 778. 
 
 Felix 783 to 799. 
 
 Leideratus unknown. 
 
 Possidonius 815 to 823. 
 
 Sisebutus was living in 833 and 840. 
 
 Beatus was living in 850. 
 
 WisadusI 860 to 872. 
 
 Ingobertus was living in 885. 
 
 Nantigisuis before 900 and in 914. 
 
 Rudulfus before 930 and after 943. 
 
 >■ Uncertain. 
 
62 APPENDIX. 
 
 Wisadus II was living in 978. 
 
 Salla was living in 981, and later. 
 
 Ermengol was living in 1035. 
 
 Eriballo was living in 1036 and 1041. 
 
 Guillermo-Guifredo . . 1042 to 1075. 
 Bernardo-Guillermo . 1076 or 1077 to 1092. 
 
 Fulco 1092 to 1095. 
 
 San Odon 1095 to 1112. 
 
 Pedro-Berenguer 1113 to 1141. 
 
 Benardo-Sancho 1142 to 1162. 
 
 Bernardo-Roger 1163 to 1166. 
 
 Amaldo de Perexen 1167 to 1195. 
 
 Bernardo de Castello 1195 to 1198. 
 
 Bernardo de Vilamur 1199 to 1203. 
 
 Pedro de Puigvert 1204 to 1230. 
 
 Ponce de Vilamur ^ 1230 to 1257. 
 
 Abril * 1257 to 1269. 
 
 Pedro de TJrg 1269 to 1293. 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 COUNTS OP DEGEL UNDER THE CAKLOVINGIAN RULE. 
 
 Sunifred 884 to 950. 
 
 Borrell died in 993. 
 
 Ermengol I died in 1010. 
 
 Ermengol II died in 1040. 
 
 Ermengol III died in 1065. 
 
 Ermengol IV died in 1092. 
 
 Ermengol V died in 1112. 
 
 Ermengol VI died in 1154. 
 
APPENDIX. 63 
 
 Ermengol VII died in 1183. 
 
 Ermengol VIII died in 1208. 
 
 Ermengol IX died young. 
 
 Eodrigue was living in 1278. 
 
 Ermengol X died in 1314. 
 
 Jaime died in 1347. 
 
 Pedro died in 1408. 
 
 Jaime II died in 1443. 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 
 JOINT LORDS OF THE VALLEX. HOUSE OF FOLK AND 
 SUCCESSORS. 
 
 Roger I died in 1040. 
 
 Bernard I died in 1096. 
 
 Roger II died in 1111. 
 
 Roger III died in. 1120. 
 
 Roger IV died in 1143. 
 
 Roger-Bernard I died in 1188. 
 
 Raymond Roger died in 1222. 
 
 Roger-Bernard II died in 1264. 
 
 Roger-Bernard III died in 1303. 
 
 Gaston I died in 1315. 
 
 Gaston II not known. 
 
 Gaston-Phebus I died in 1391. 
 
 Mathieu I died in 1398. 
 
 Gaston III died in 1461. 
 
 Gaston IV died in 1472. 
 
64 APPENDIX. 
 
 Gaston-Phdbus II died in 1472. 
 
 Left no children. His sister married Jean d'Al- 
 bret. Their son and successor was 
 
 Henri I '. . died in 1515. 
 
 His daughter, Jeanne d'Albret, Queen of Navarre, 
 married Antoine de Bourbon, by whom there was born 
 one son, Henri de Bourbon. Henri II., Count de Foix, 
 King of Navarre, etc., became King of France under 
 the name of Henri IV., who died in 1610, leaving 
 
 Louis XIII died in 1643. 
 
 Louis XIV died in 1715. 
 
 Louis XV died in 1774. 
 
 Louis XVI died in 1793. 
 
 Napoleon I abdicated in 1814. 
 
 Louis XVIII from 1814 to 1824. 
 
 Charles X from 1824 to 1830. 
 
 Louis Philippe from 1830 to 1848. 
 
 Napoleon HI from 1848 to 1870. 
 
 The Republic. 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL JOINT LORDS OF THE VALLET. 
 
 Guillermo de Moncada 
 Eaimundo de Lordato 
 Arnaldo de Lordato . 
 Pedro de Narbona 
 Nicolas Capoci . . 
 Hugo Desbach . , 
 Guillermo-Arnaldo de Patau 
 
 from 1293 to 1308. 
 
 from 1309 to 1326. 
 
 from 1326 to 1341. 
 
 from 1341 to 1350. 
 
 1350. 
 
 1351 to 1361. 
 
 1361 to 1364. 
 
APPENDIX. 65 
 
 Pedro de Luna 1365 to 1371. 
 
 Berenguer de Eril 1371 to 1388. 
 
 Galieran de Villanova 1388 to 1415. 
 
 Francisco de Tovia 1416. 
 
 Arnaldo- Roger de Palhas 1443. 
 
 Jaime de Cardona 1462. 
 
 Pedro de Cardona 1472 to 1515. 
 
 Juan Despes 1515 to 1530. 
 
 Pedro Jordan de Urries 1534 to 1551. 
 
 Miguel Desping 1553 to 1556. 
 
 Juan Perez Garcia de Olivan .... 1556 to 1560. 
 
 Pedro de Castelet 1561 to 1571. 
 
 Juan Dimas Lori8 1572 to 1576. 
 
 Miguel Geronimo Morell 1578 to 1579. 
 
 Hugo Ambrosio de Moncada .... 1580 to 1586. 
 
 Andres Capella 1588 to 1609. 
 
 Bernardo de Salva 1610 to 1620. 
 
 Luis Diaz Aux de Armeudariz . . . 1622 to 1627. 
 
 Antonio Perez 1627 to 1633. 
 
 Pablo Duran 1634 to 1644. 
 
 Juan Manoel de Espinosa 1652 to 1664. 
 
 Melchior Palau 16C4 to 1670. 
 
 Pedro de Capons 1670 to 1681. 
 
 Juan Bautista Desbach 1682 to 1688. 
 
 Olaguer de Monserrat 1689 to 1694. 
 
 Julian Cano 1694 to 1714. 
 
 Simeon de Guinda y Apezteguy . . . 1714 to 1737. 
 
 Jorge Curado y Torreblanca .... 1738 to 1747. 
 
 Sebastian de Victoria Emparan y Loyola 1747 to 1756. 
 
 Francisco Josep Catalan de Ocon . . 1757 to 1762. 
 5 
 
66 APPENDIX. 
 
 Francisco Fernandez de Jativa . . . 1763. 
 
 Joaquin de Santiyan y Valdiviesco . . 1772. 
 
 Juan Garcia Montenegro 1780. 
 
 Josd de Boltas 1785. 
 
 Francisco Antonio de la Duena y Cisneras 1797. 
 
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