fyxmll Wimmxi^ Jitatg BOUGHT WITH THB INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF ilenrg W. Sage dz. arV12676 New lands Cornell Unlverally Library 3 1924 031 245 255 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924031245255 NEW LANDS: THEIR RESOURCES AND PROSPECTIVE ADVANTAGES. UNIFORM WITH THIS WORK. THE "NEW LAND" SERIES Of Practical Handbooks for Prospectors, Explorers, Settlers, and all interested in the Opening up and Development of New Lands. Edited by GRENVILLE A. J. COLE, M.R.I.A., F.G-.S., Professor of Geology in the Royal GoUege of Science for IreUmd. Second Eoiiioh, Kevised. With Slustrations. Price in Cloth, 6s. ; stronely bound in Leather, 68. 6d. PROSPECTING FOR MINERALS. Br S. HERBEKT COX, Assoo.R.S.M., M.Inst.M.M., F.G.S., &o. OxHEJtAl^ COHTIKTS.— Introduction and Hints on Geology— The Determination of Minerals : Use of the Blowpipe, &c.— Bock-forming Minerals and Non-metallic Minerals of Commercial Value: Rock Salt, Borax, Marbles, Lithographic Stone, Quartz and Opal, &c., 4;c.— Precious Stones and Gems— Stratified Deposits: Coal and Ores— Mineral Veins and Lodes— Irregular Deposits— Dynamics of Lodes: Faults, &c.— AUuTial Deposits— Noble Metals: Gold, Platinum, 8ilver,&c.— Lead— Mercury-Copper- Tin— Zinc— Iron— Nickel, &c.— Sulphur, Antimony, Arsenic, &c.— Combustible Minerals— Petroleum-General Hints on Prospecting— Glossary— Index. " This ADMIRABLB LITTLE VOKK." —Mming JownMl. With many Engravings and Photographs. Handsome Cloth, 4s. 6d. FOOD sxj:pi»i- 3r. By ROBERT BRUCE, AffrwuMv/ral Superintendent to the Boyal JDnblm Society. With Appendix on Preserved Foods by C. A. MmcheIjL, B.A., F.I. C. Gbhieal Costihis.— Climate and Soil— Drainage and Rotation of Crops— Seeds and Crops- Vegetables and Fruits-Cattle and Cattle-Breeding-Sheep and Sheep Rearmg-Pigs— Poultry- Horses- The Dairy— The Farmer's Implements— The Settler's Home. " The work is one which will appeal to those intending to become farmers at home or in the Colonies."— <7burna£ of the Boyal volvmal Inat. In Prepa/ration, Uniform with above. BUILDING CONSTRUCTION IN WOOD, STONBJ, AND CONCRBTB. By JAS. LYON, M.A., Professor of Engineering in the Royal CoUege of Science for Ireland; sometime Sv^erintendent of the Engifneermg Department im. the Unvversity of Gamlridge ; a/nd J. TAYLOR, A.R.C.S.I. With a Sectioji on Health and Disease in Warm Ciimates by Jas. Cantlie, H.A.,M.B., F.R.C.S. Thiett-Fockth Editioh of this valued Household Compendium of Medicine, with Additions, New Sections, &c. Royal 8vo, Cfloth, 10s. 6d. DOMESTIC MEDICINE AND HOUSEHOLD SURGERY. BY SPENCEE, THOMSON, M.D., and J. C. STEELE, M.D. (late of Guy's Hospital). Thoroughly Revised and brought Up-to-Date by Albekt Wbstland, M.A., M.D., and Gbo. Rbid, M-D., D.P.H. With Appendix on the Management of the Sick Room, and many Hints for the Diet and Comfort of luvalids. A number of new Illustrations and Di£«rams have been added, and all directions are given in such form as to he readily and safely followed. " The amount of useful knowledge conveyed in this work is surprising."— JHedusol Time*. LONDON : CHARLES GRIFFIN & CO., LIMITED, EXETER STREET, STRAND NEW LANDS: THEIR RESOURCES AND PROSPECTIVE ADVANTAGES. HUGH ROBEET MILL, D.So. (Bdin.), LL.D. (St. And.), F.R.S.E., F.R.MET.SOC, r.Il.G.S., F.R.8.G.S., HONOBABY COBB^PONDINC MEMBER OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETIES OF PARIS, BERLIN, BUDAPEST, AMSTERDAM, PHILADELPHIA, AND BRISBANE. BEING THE INTBODUCTOET VOLUME OF GBIF FIN'S "NEW LAND" SERIES, Edited by PROF. GRENVILLE A. J. COLE, M.R.I. A., F.G.S. WITH TEN MAPS. LONDON: CHARLES GKIFFIN & COMPANY, LIMITED; EXETER STREET, STRAND. 1900. PREFACE. In acceding to a request to write for Griffin's " New Land " Series for Prospectors, a volume on New Lands, it was the desire of the author to present a short, simple, and practical account of the conditions of life in those parts of the world where there is still an opening for the energies of English- speaking people desiring to make their home or invest their capital in a new country. Considerations of space made it necessary to limit the scope of the survey, and it was found desirable to treat of little more than the coun- tries of the temperate zone. The only part of the book in which the author speaks from personal knowledge of the country is that dealing with the Dominion of Canada. The value of the brief visit which he paid to the far west lay mainly in enabling him to satisfy himself of the careful accuracy of the official publications regarding the western provinces and terri- tories, and to form the acquaintance of public men and settlers whose information has been gratefully utilised. With regard to the other colonies and countries dealt with, the author depended less upon official reports than on the writings and personal statements of independent residents or visitors. In some cases there was a conflict a2 PRErACE. of opinion, and in these an effort was made to give promi- nence to the evidence which appeared most trustworthy on account of the experience or independence of the witness. One piece of advice is given by all practical men and cannot be too emphatically repeated. It is that no new- comer in any country should invest money or start any enterprise on his own account until he has resided some little time in the place and has become familiar with the peculiarities of the climate and resources, and with the mode of life which the experience of earlier comers has proved to be the best. In almost every case it will be found that the crux of a new land is the water supply. Water, as rain or rivers, is indeed the very life-blood of the habitable world, and the phenomena of its circulation are often complicated and require much study to elucidate. Further information regarding the countries treated of may be obtained from the books cited in the various chapters, from the Colonial and Foreign Office Reports of the British Government, the annual official handbooks of the colonies published locally, and the publications of the various public departments of the countries. The States- man's Year Book, edited by Dr. J. Scott Keltic, is the most compact and up-to-date annual repertory of statistics. H. R. M. 1 Savilb Row, W. Jidy, 1900. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. FAGBS New and Old Lands— Hints to Emigrants— Personal Idiosyn- crasy — Occupations in New Lands — Value of Experience — Educated Women in New Lands, 1-5 CHAPTER II. THE DEVELOPMENT OP NEW LANDS. Development of Land — Classification of Resources — Utilisation of Resources — Maintenance of Resources — Attractive Power of Gold — The Idea of a Self-Sufficing Country — Foreign Trade and its Dangers — Possible Advantages of State Control of Trade — Geographical Conditions and the Past Development of Old Countries — Origin of Towns and Villages — Origin of Roads and Railways — Contrast between Old and New Coun- tries — Geographical Boundaries — Government of New Lands — Topographical Surveys — Geological Surveys — Hydrographie Surveys — Climatological and other Surveys — Irrigation — Planning a System of Commiinications — Town Sites and Town Plans — People for New Lands — The Problem of Native Races — The Problem of Newcomers — Patriotism and the Land — Theory and Practice, 6-29 CHAPTER III. THE DOMINION OF CANADA. General Position and Boundaries — Surface — Climate — Government — Laws — Currency — Time — Composition of Population — Re- sources of the Dominion — Fur Trade — Fisheries — Forests — Mineral Wealth — Agriculture — Existing Agricultural Re- sources — Government Encouragement to Agriculture — Public Lands — Dominion Lands — Railways and Water-ways — Ocean Steamers, 30-52 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. THE DOMINION OF CANADA— EASTERN PROVINCES. FAGZa Nova Scotia — Farming — Mining— New Brunswick- Forests- Prince Edward's Island— Quebec — People— Climate— Natural Divisions — Communications — Resources — Lumbering — Minerals — Mining Laws — Ontario — Access and People — Natural Divisions — Climate — Communications — Laws — Re- sources — New Agricultural Land — Timber — Fisheries — Mining — Corundum — Iron — Copper and Nickel — Silver and Platinum— J&old — Mining Laws, 53-74 CHAPTER V. THE DOMINION OF CANADA— WESTERN PROVINCES AND TERRITORIES. Manitoba — Surface — Climate — Communications — Laws — Minerals — Forests— Fisheries — Agriculture — Settlements and Farms. Organised Districts — North- West Territories — Assiniboia — Saskatchewan and Alberta — Climate — Communications — Laws of the Territories — Forests — Minerals — Mining Laws of Manitoba and the Territories — Farming and Ranching — Irrigation — Future Development. Remote Territories — Athabasca — Mackenzie, Keewatin, and Ungava — Reported Mineral Wealth. Yukon Territory — Position — Climate — Resources — Routes to Klondike — Conditions of Life in the Klondike Region — Mining Regulations. British Columbia — Position and Surface — River System —Climate — Communi- cations — People and Laws— Forests — ^Agriculture — Fisheries — Mining-^Gold and Silver — Mining Laws, .... 75-110 CHAPTER VI. NEWFOUNDLAND. Position and Government — The French Shore — People — Surface — Climate — Communications — Fisheries — Farming — Mining — Mining Laws 111-117 CHAPTER VII. THE UNITED STATES. Growth and Progress — Position and Boundaries — Configuration— Climate — Communications — Resources — Agriculture — Stock Raising — Mining — Coalfields — Petroleum — Metals — Manu- factures — People — Settlement of the Country — Government CONTENTS. IX PAGES and Laws — Aliens and Naturalisation — New Lands of the United States — Acquisition of Public Lands — Gulf States — Mississippi — Alabama — Florida— Texas — States of the Great Lakes — Michigan — Wisconsin — Minnesota — Central States — North Dakota — South Dakota — Nebraska — Kansas — Arkansas — Missouri — Oklahoma — Cordilleran and Plateau States — Wyoming — Idaho — Montana — Pacific States — Cali- fornia — Oregon — Washington — Alaska — Position and Area — Administration and Laws — Ports and Communications — Climate — Possibility of Agriculture — Resources — Gold in Alaska — Cape Nome Goldiields— Coal in Alaska, . . . 118-153 CHAPTER VIII. LATIN AMERICA— MEXICO. Latin American Republics — Bureau of American Republics — Religion — Immigration — Communications — Why South America is Neglected — Mexico — Surface and Climate — Re- sources — Railways — People — Government — Prospects for Development, 154-160 CHAPTER IX. LATIN AMERICA— TEMPERATE BRAZIL AND CHILE. Brazil — United States of Brazil — People and Resources — Southern States of Brazil — Communications — Colonies in South Brazil — Hints to Farmers — Southern Chile — The Republic of Chile — Population and Immigration — Openings for Capital — Southern Provinces of Chile, 161-171 CHAPTER X. ARGENTINA. Position — Surface — Climate — Resources ^ — Exports and Trade — Government — People — Tariff and Currency — Railway Enter- prise — Provinces — The Argentine Railways — New Lands of Argentina — Province of Buenos Aires — Entre Rios — Cor- rientes — Santa FS — Central Provinces — Western Provinces — Central Territories — Southern Territories — Patagonia, . . 172-186 CHAPTER XI. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. Surface — Climate — Resources — Prospects , 187-188 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. AUSTRALIA— VICTORIA. FAG£» Commonwealth of Australia — Australia — People and Towns — Victoria — Position — Surface — Climate — Area and Population — Communications — Resources — Gold-mining — Laws — Allot- ment of Crown Lands — Mining Laws — New Lands of Victoria — Gippsland — Murray District — Wimmera District —Irrigation "Colonies," 189-198 CHAPTER XIII. AUSTRALIA— NEW SOUTH WALES. Position — Geology — Surface and Climate — Coast Strip — EleTated Table Lands — Western Plains — Area and Population — Com- munications — Resources — Irrigation — Rabbits — Laws — Crown Lands — New Lands of New South Wales — Riverina District — Prospects for Parmers — Minerals — Forests and Fisheries, 199-210 CHAPTER XIV. AUSTRALIA— QUEENSLAND. Position and General Character— Climate of Temperate Queens- land — Area and Population — Labour Question — Assisted Immigration — Mineral Resources — Agriculture — Land Laws — Mining Claims — Railways of Temperate Queensland, . . 211-216 CHAPTER XV. AUSTRALIA— SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Area— Northern Territory — The Province of South Australia — Climate — Population — Pastoral Resources — Agriculture — Minerals — Conditions and Prospects 217-220 CHAPTER XVI. AUSTRALIA— TASMANIA. Position and Surface — Communications — Climate — Mineral Re- sources — Farm Produce— Population and Immigration— New Lands of Tasmania — Prospects, 221-225 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XVII. WESTERN AUSTRALIA. PAGES Position and Coasts — Surface — Climate — Mineral Resources — Farming — Population and Immigration — Communications - Mining Laws — Land Divisions — Land Laws — New Lands for Agriculture — Mineral Lands —Tropical Goldfields — Murchison Goldfields — Yilgam and Coolgardie Goldfields — Mount Margaret and Dundas Goldfields 226-238 CHAPTER XVIII. NEW ZEALAND. Position — Configuration and Geology — Climate — Population and Immigration — Legislation — Land Laws— Mining Laws — Re- sources of New Zealand — Pastoral Products — Agriculture — Minerals — Forests and Fisheries — Manufactures — Towns and Communications — Possibilities of New Zealand, . . . 239-248 CHAPTER XIX. THE RESOURCES OP SOUTH AFRICA. South Africa — Configuration of South Africa — South African CUmate — Fauna — Communications — People — Political Divisions — Prospects for the Future— Cape Colony— Position and Surface — Settlement — Eastern Districts — Northern Districts — Bechuanaland — Trade — Resources — Natal — Sur- face ajid Climate — Trade and Resources — New Lands in Natal — Transvaal— People and History — Surface and Re- sources — The Rand — Other Goldfields — Orange River Colony — General Conditions — Resources 249-266 CHAPTER XX. SOUTHERN RHODESIA. British South Africa Company— Development of Rhodesia— Rail- ■^ays — Surface and Resources — Climate — Gold, . . . 267-270 MAPS. FIG. PAGE 1. Canadian Township Plan, 18 2. The Dominion of Canada, 33 3. Wbstbkn Canada 76 4. Alaska, , 147 5. Temperate South America, 165 6. The Colonies of Australia, 191 7. The Western Australian Goldfields, 235 8. New Zealand, 246 9. South African Railways, 253 10. The Transvaal Goldfields, 264 NEW LANDS, CHAPTER I. INTEODUCTOEY. New and Old Lands — Hints to Emigrants — Personal Idiosyncrasy — — Occupations in New Lands— Value of Experience — Educated Women in New Lands. Evert country probably possesses some valuable and still undeveloped resources which promise a good return for labour, vigorously and intelligently applied. The old lands of Great Britain, which are slipping out of cultivation year by year, might possibly be restored to their former purposes by a judicious employment of capital in introducing, instead of grain crops, some form of industrial "raw material," which would thrive in the soil and climate. The Highlands of Scotland, which have ceased to support a population of sheep-farmers, are already being turned to fresh account by the utilisation of their abundant water-power as a source of electric energy for manu- facturers. In this way invention and discovery may make " new " the oldest lands ; but this is not the sense which we propose to attach to the word. By "New Lands" we mean those which have not hitherto been fully exploited or settled, in which land can still be easily and cheaply obtained by anyone -willing to work, and -where a man may live in comfort, if not in luxury, enjoying freedom of opinion and of action, and where, finally, he can, if he likes, take part in shaping the destiny of a rising nation. Political influences are, in almost all old countries, powerful in excluding or heavily handicapping foreign competition ; and on this account we shall omit from consideration the whole of Europe, and of those countries in Asia and Africa which are 2 NEW LANDS. held and administered by strong nations of alien speech.^ In that category -we may for the present leave the Chinese Empire ; but we include in the scope of this book all temperate parts of the British Empire and of the United States not yet fully taken up — temperate South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, and such of the Latin - American Republics as are politically stable, yet lack the financial means or adminis- trative strength to complete their own development. We do not, however, propose to treat the question from the financial point of view only, but rather from that of the full and per- manent development and utilisation of a country. These can only be brought about by the permanent settlement therein of a working population, whose entire interests are centred in the land of their adoption. At the same time, the position of the , investor who desires an outlet for his capital, and one which will yield a good return, will not be lost sight of; for capital is nowhere more essential to the success of labour than in the development of new lands. In this volume an endeavour is made to bring together such information as to the countries of the future as will be best calculated to help the intending emigrant to decide where he can turn his natural ability, training, and enterprise to the best account. The descriptions cannot be exhaustive, for the practical considerations, which should be taken into account, are very numerous, and it is only possible to make this handbook useful by limiting its scope. Nothing is said regarding the vast fields for trading enterprise which lie on the point of becoming available in Eastern Asia, and nothing of such tropical countries, the development of which, by the capital of white men, necessitates the labour of the black. Both of these are legiti- mate and profi.table fields of work, but they necessitate the consideration of difierent conditions and a different method of treatment. . No one should rest content with the information herein set forth if he intends to make practical use of it. He should supplement it by reading the books referred to in the descrip- tion of the particular region in which he proposes to try his fortune. It is both wrong and foolish for any one to commence life in a new land ignorant of the country, its laws, and the customs of its people ; but it is scarcely less dangerous to go out with cut-and-dried views derived from books alone. The most exact statistics of climate, for instance, may convey very little real idea of what the daily weather of a particular place is like ; the formulation of the laws and regulations laid down INTRODUCTORY. 3 by authority cannot enable one to judge how far these may be enforced, or how their influence may be felt. Even official statistics may be imperfectly collected, and perhaps present facts in a more favourable light than strict impartiality might permit. It must be remembered that full and trustworthy statistics are the product exclusively of old and fully occupied countries. As far as possible, we shall endeavour to combine with the statements of official authorities the experiences of those who have lived in the countries, and are therefore able to judge. But it must be remembered that no two people have identical experiences, nor look at things from quite the same point of view. It is, of course, to be understood that this book is intended for persons of some education and intelligence, who desire to take part in the development of new lands by professional enterprise, the direction of labour, or the employment of capital, and who are not afraid of taking their own part in any work which may be necessary. It is not intended for the mere labourer, nor for the man with neither practical knowledge nor the desire to work ; for the latter, indeed, there is no land " new " enough to offer the life he would desire to live. Certain general considerations of a personal character, which in themselves are trivial, may mean a good deal in practice, for little things are apt to bulk more largely than we care to acknowledge. Some of these may be briefly character- ised. Personal Idiosyncrasy. — No dweller in an old country can expect to carry with him to a new land the habits of his early life. These habits are the growth of that environment from which he desires to disentangle himself, in order to find fuller scope for his energies, and more result for his effi)rts. Luxuries, and even common comforts, must often be laid aside, and the less dependent a man is upon his ordinary surroundings the sooner will he be able to achieve the most effective results under new conditions. Hence the enormous advantage which the total abstainer and non-smoker has, at the outset, as a pioneer. On the other hand, the determination to obtain certain cherished luxuries may be powerful in overcoming difficulties with regard to communications, or in supplying incentives to work. Natural aptitudes and likings should not be neglected without real cause. Some men are better adapted by nature for a hot, others for a cold, climate; some suffer abnormally from the attacks of mosquitoes and other insects, just as some suffer abnormally from sea-sickness. To some the 4 NEW LANDS. deprivation of society is torture, while others are at their best in solitude. One finds the acquisition of a new language the worst of toils, another views it as a pleasant recreation. It is really of importance to recognise and distinguish between these individual constitutional peculiarities and the temporary feelings of discomfort induced by a change in one's habits and surroundings. Before a determined will the greatest natural difficulties may be forced to give way ; but, in most cases, the necessity of fighting against a constitutional antipathy or pre- dilection means a great increase in the chances of failure. Occupation. — The best prospect of success in a new land will probably be found in the exercise of a familiar occupation, provided that it is one adapted to the new conditions of life. The trained agriculturist will succeed best in farming, and the miner in a mine ; a medical man will probably do best in his own profession, when he has adapted himself to the changed conditions of the place. Still, it is by no means so necessary for the shoemaker to stick to his last in a new, as in an old land. High specialisation in most branches of industry is only possible in old or highly developed communities. On gold- fields which are sufficiently developed to admit of the use of machinery, specialists in the processes of gold extraction have, of course, better prospects than those who have to learn the work. Where population is scattered and work scarce, a certain facility in passing from one occupation to another is exceedingly valuable. The man who can turn his hand to any- thing usually gets on best in opening up new lands; but when development of a country fairly sets in, the man who has had technical training in some one useful art comes most rapidly to the front. To know something of everything and everything of something is, in fact, the best preparation for the pioneer in the formative work of a new land, as for the cultured conversa- tionalist. If one profession more than another will fit a man to be a good pioneer in a new country, it is that of an engineer — mining, mechanical, or civil. The great personal qualities for a pioneer to possess are perseverance and adaptability. There must be no superstitious adherence to rule-of-thumb methods, which did fairly well at home; but, on the contrary, an open mind, quick to observe and ready to adopt new ideas. Labour-saving devices, for instance, which were little more than toys in the old home, may become vital elements of success in the new one. A clear under- standing of the points of similarity and difierence between the natural conditions of the old and the new surroundings is highly INTKOI^UCTORY. O important, for in the recognition of these differences often lies the key to success and progress. Precautions to be Observed. — One piece of advice is given by all who have studied the practical working of immigration in new countries. It is that the newcomer should never invest any money he may possess until he has had some experience of his new home, and seen how those who came before him manage their affairs. Thus a young farmer should work for wages for a year in the neighbourhood in which he proposes to settle before taking up land on his own account ; and a miner should, for a few months at least, acquire experience by working under old hands before he pegs out a claim for himself. While the first opening up of new lands is work for young men without domestic ties, the development of a country on the best lines demands home life as its basis. At a time when athletic pursuits are common to both sexes, it may safely be said that young women, even of the highly-educated classes, are as well fitted as their brothers for a simple and arduous life. The instinctive domestic economy of an educated woman will do very much to round off the rough edges of life, even in the primitive outposts of the prairie or the bush, and, in a sister or a wife, will give permanence to efforts which might otherwise be without result. Another important consideration is that, if the benefits of civilisation are to be preserved, even though simplified in expression, the pioneer must be on the watch to avoid relapsing to the condition of the savage. The loneliness of life on the verge of a settlement has dangers in this respect ; and the moral risks run in centres such as mining camps, where the only female society to be found is in the dancing and gaming saloons, have more to do with the failure of well-meaning young fellows than any amount of hard work or rough living. Miss Mora Shaw, the well-known authority on colonial matters strongly recommends the emigration of educated girls to join their brothers after the advisable period of probation has been passed and a permanent settlement secured ; but, of course, in Buch cases they must go out to work, and to work hard, not to lead " ornamental lives." CHAPTER II. THE DEVELOPMENT OP NEW LANDS.* Development of Land — Classification of Resources — Utilisation of Eesouroes— Maintenance of Resources — Attractive Power of Gold — The Idea of a Self-Sufficing Country— Foreign Trade and its Dangers —Possible Advantages of State Control of Trade— Geographical Conditions and the Past Development of Old Countries — Origin of Towns and Villages— Origin of Roads and Railways — Contrast between Old and New Countries— Geographical Boundaries — Government of New Lands — Topographical Surveys — Geological Surveys — Hydro- graphical Surveys— Climatological and other Surveys— Irrigation — Planning a System of Communications — Town Sites and Town Plans — People for New Lands — The Problem of Native Races — The Problem of Newcomers— Patriotism and the Land — Theory and Practice. Development of Land. — The question of ,the development of land may be treated from many different points of view and in the light of different interests. In this chapter we take the matter up from the theoretical side and from the geographical point of view, which concerns itself rather with the land itself and its inhabitants than with the people who employ money in working its resources in the hope of muking a profit without themselves living on the land. The word "development" has been so frequently used in the sense of expending capital on a country with a view to immediate profit, that it is necessary ta define the larger sense in which it is used here. The reader, bearing in mind that this book is intended less for speculators than for investors, and more for settlers than for visitors in a new land, will recognise the value of taking geography in its full modern scientific sense as a guide for determining in what the development of a country consists. Such " development " as is produced by the endeavour to make the largest possible sum of money in the shortest practicable time, may possibly be the only kind applicable to very remote regions, which could never be made available for permanent human habitation ; but for such * Parts of this chapter have appeared in an article by the author entitled " The Development of Habitable Lands : a Study in Anthropogeography," published in The Scottish Oeographical Magazine, for March, 1900. THE DEVELOPMENT OF NEW LANDS. 7 lands only. Looking on the world as not only the home of man, but as subservient in all its phenomena to the welfare of the human race, we may consider the development of any region to mean such treatment of its natural resources as will enable the land to continue to support an increasing number of inhabitants. In the case of a new land — that is, of a region the resources of which are yet unutilised, and which is practically without inhabi- tants — the problem of development is presented in its easiest form. It becomes very difficult, however, when the density of population approaches the limit at which the means of subsistence threaten to become insufficient ; then it becomes the serious problem of the restoration of old lands. The only case to be considered here is the development of the new lands of the temperate zones ; but the possibility of a land growing old and exhausted must always be borne in view. Immediate advantage would be pur- chased too dearly if it involved exhaustion instead of develop- ment — killing, instead of feeding, the goose which should lay the golden eggs of the future. The question of developing lands becomes complicated in detail, because it involves large economic considerations and difficult distinctions bdiween investment and speculation ; but the broad principles are clear enough. It would appear that fortune-hunting is inimical to development in its true sense. A fortune acquired through production or speculation can usually be made by only a few individuals, and almost always entails the exhaustion of natural resources or the lowering of wages ; a prosperous livelihood, on the other hand, can often be secured to a multitude without permanent impoverish- ment of the land. The development of a habitable region, which implies the expenditure of labour or capital with a definite end in view, is essentially a process of securing the permanent adjustment of people to the land on which they live — a geographical problem which lies, it is true, at the root of politics, but which is not treated here from its political side. Classiflcation of Resources. — The natural resources of a region may be broadly divided into two classes, those which occur naturally in the crust of the Earth and are therefore limited in quantity, and those which utilise sources of energy external to the Earth and are therefore capable of being increased in quantity by appropriate means. The former class includes all minerals, precious metals, metallic ores, coal, precious stones, 106,100 ) 66,799 Alberta Keewatin 478, 800 N Athabasca, 251,300 Mackenzie, 1 32,168 Yukon, [ 998,214 / Ungava, ) Franklin, 300,000 >' Great Lakes of St. Lawrence, Total, . 47,400 ... 3,455,980 4,833,239 1'4 S2 NEW LANDS. The area of the smaller lakes and rivers is included in the above estimates. It may be stated generally, as regards the provinces, that Prince Edward Island is fully occupied, that Franklin, which consists of the Arctic Islands, is valueless, while Ungava, Yukon, Mackenzie, and Keewatin are likely to prove of value only where gold or other valuable minerals may be found ; but that the greater part of Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, British Columbia, Assiniboia, Saskatchewan, Alberta, and Athabasca are capable of, and still awaiting, development. This must be done by the introduction of population, and of capital, for the working of the forests, fisheries, minerals, and especially the agricultural and pastoral lands. The resources and the conditions of life of each province will be described later. Stirface. — Vast as Canada is, the physical geograpliy is re- markably simple. The St. Lawrence River, and its associated great lakes, sweep round the eastern half of the southern part of the country bordered closely on the north by a water-shed, for the most part in the form of a gentle elevation called The Height of Land. Along the west coast runs a broad strip of rugged highland, about 400 miles wide in the south and narrowing northward, the eastern margin of which is formed by the Rocky Mountains, and the western by the Coast Range. This mountainous region drains mainly to the Pacific, and is intersected by numerous valleys and plateaux, while fjords penetrate it from the sea and islands fringe the shore. East of the Rocky Mountains the land slopes from an elevation of about 5000 feet in great plains or prairies to the Arctic Sea and Hudson Bay. The Mackenzie . River flows northward, but the rest of tlie drainage of the country flows into Hudson Bay from every side. So far as an ordinary map shows, Hudson Bay is the heart of Canada, the natural focus of its trade, and of the means of penetration to the interior, for it carries the deep water of the ocean to the very centre of the continent. Unfortunately, the severe winter climate completely closes the flea for many months, and during the time when it is open for navigation the narrow entrance is always liable to become obstructed by drifting ice, so that it has remained practically unused. The geology of Canada stands in close relation to the surface features of the country. Hudson Bay is the centre of a vast V-shaped region of Archsean rocks, which extends southward to the St. Lawrence and westward to the Mackenzie. This Archasan nucleus is surrounded by a belt of Palaeozoic rocks, THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 33 34 NEW LANDS. separated from the Palseozoic and Mesozoic masses of the moun- tainous western strip by the broad plains and prairies, -which are underlain by more recent formations. All the low grounds of Canada, from the Atlantic to the Rocky Mountains, have been greatly altered by the ice sheet of the great ice age, the under- lying formations being in many cases completely covered by boulder clay, the accumulations of which have given to the river systems a peculiar indecisiveness. Thus the smaller lakes have frequently outlets by two rivers, tributary to different systems, and other rivers which do not meet at a common source approach ao nearly that their navigable waters are only separated by a short stretch of nearly level ground. It is this feature which has made the canoe so universal a means of travelling in the vast regions of the remote north-west during summer. Climate. — On the west coast of Canada, particularly in Vancouver Island, the climate closely corresponds to that of the British Isles. The prevailing sea winds ensure cloudy skies and a high rainfall, with cool summers and mild winters. But from the crest of the Coast Range, a few miles distant from the Pacific shores, to the Atlantic, across the whole breadth of the continent, the climate is severely continental, intensely hot in summer and intensely cold in winter, while the rainfall, although subject to local variations, is relatively low. The distribution of the rainfall throughout the year, however, in some cases renders nearly three-quarters of the annual supply available in the spring months, when it is of service in agri- culture. Except for a narrow strip on the Pacific coast the mean temperature of the air in every part of Canada is below the freezing point during December, January, and February, and except in British Columbia, during November and March also. Winter may thus be said to last for five months throughout the country, while the average temperature of the month of January is below zero Fahrenheit as far south as 50° N. latitude in the centre of the country. Such extreme temperatures, how- ever, do not appear to have a bad effect ; a farmer in the North- Western Territories will drive across the frozen prairie for a week, sleeping each night in the open air with the mercury in the thermometer frozen ( — 40° F.), and be none the worse for it. Precautions have, of course, to be taken against frost bite ; but Canadians are unanimous in saying that in that exhilarating atmosphere a temperature far below zero is enjoyable, and that nothing so trying as a, raw wet winter's day in England is ever experienced. THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 35 In summer there is a -wonderful contrast, the difference being most marked in the north-west. Thus the average temperature of the two months, July and August, is 60° in the valleys of the Mackenzie and the Yukon, almost up to the Arctic circle, and the average for the south of the Dominion is over 70° ; the extreme temperatures in the low plains are, indeed, often overpowering. The influence of these climatic conditions on farming will be noted when we describe the various provinces. The percentage of bright sunshine is greater for all parts of Canada than for northern Europe, clear sky and exhilarating air at all seasons being charactei-istic of the climate. Government. — The Dominion of Canada is a federation of self-governing provinces, with a Federal Government possessing certain rights over the whole territory. The executive authority is vested in the British Crown, and is exercised by a Governor- General appointed by the British Government, and a Privy Council. The legislative power of the Federal Government is vested in two Houses of Parliament, a Senate or Upper House of 81 members, appointed for life by the Governor-General, and a House of Commons of 213 members, elected by the people, the qualifications of electors being different in the various provinces. The Parliament meets in Ottawa, where the Governor-General resides. The Government, as in the United Kingdom, is com- posed of the leading members of the political party which has a majority in the House of Commons. Except for the right of appeal from its decisions to the Privy Council in London, the Dominion of Canada is free from any political or judicial control on the part of the Mother Country. The functions of the Dominion Parliament include, amongst others, the regulation of Trade and Commerce, the working of the Post Office (but not of the Telegraphs, which are in the hands of private companies), Defence, Navigation, Quarantine, Currency and Coinage, Indirect Taxation, Criminal Procedure, Marriage Laws,* and all legislation as to "Weights and Measures, Bankruptcy, Indian affairs, &c. Thus throughout Canada there is uniformity of fundamental laws, the administration of which is the concern of the central government, in contrast to the United States, in which the several States exercise larger rights and differ greatly from one another in many important particulars. * Marriage with a deceased wife's sister, or a deceased wife's sister's daughter, is legal in the Dominion of Canada, as, indeed, in almost all British colonies. 36 NEW LANDS. Each province has its own Legislature elected by the people, and consisting in some cases of two chambers, in others of one. They have the control of direct taxation, of education, public works, and the liquor laws, and the provinces which were formerly colonies have the disposal of the unoccupied lands as well. Each province has also its own system of municipal government, the units being usually counties, townships, villages, and cities. "With regard to the spirit of the Canadian people, two points never fail to strike the visitor to the country — the respect for law, ensuring the security of life and property, even in the mining camps, and the hearty loyalty of the whole population to the British Crown. The position of Canada as a central link in the British Empire, intermediate between the United Kingdom on the east of the Atlantic, and Hong-Kong and Australia on the west of the Pacific, is well understood and highly prized in the Dominion. Laws. — There are comparatively few restrictive laws in operation, and such as exist are for the most part framed with the object of ensuring the prosp^ity of the working man, who, in almost all the provinces and territories has a lien on the product of his work for the payment of his wages. The right is maintained of excluding undesirable immigrants, and Chinese on landing are subject to a tax of £10 ; but one of the chief needs of the country being population every encouragement is offered to respectable European settlers. Great care is taken to prevent the introduction of epidemic or contagious diseases, and the quarantine service is well organised. No one is allowed to land who cannot produce evidence of having been vaccinated or of having had smallpox. More than half the public revenue of the Dominion of Canada is derived from duties levied on imports, the average rate in 1897 having been 30 per cent, ad valorem. About four-tenths of the imports are, however, admitted free, and the duties are differential in favour of free-trade countries, which is practically an encouragement to trade with the United Kingdom in pre- ference to foreign countries. Ctirreiicy. — The system of currency is identical with that of the United States, the unit being the dollar, and the ratio being fixed by statute at £1 = $4-86. The hundredth of a dollar, or cent, is thus equal to one halfpenny ; but it may be noted that the silver five cent piece is the smallest coin usually current. In 1897 articles appeared in the newspapers of Victoria, B.C., expressing disgust at the action of the Post THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 37 Office in introducing the custom of giving change less than five cents. Evening papers nominally priced at two cents are vended by the newsboys with the cry of "three for five" — i.e., three different papers for a five cent piece. The Dominion Government issues notes for 25 cents, one, two, and four dollars ; the banks, which are numerous, have the right only of issuing notes of $5, or over. There is no mint in Canada, and nearly all the gold mined in the country is sent to the Ilnited States to be assayed and coined. In this respect Canada is behind the Australian colonies. "Weights and measures are the same as in England, except that the hundredweight is reckoned at 100 lbs., and the ton (" short ton ") at 2000 lbs., as in the United States. Time. — The regulation of time has also been assimilated to that in the United States. The principle adopted is to have a series of standard times, each differing by an exact hour, and based on the meridian of Greenwich. There are six north-and- south belts of 15° of longitude, within which one time holds good ; but for practical convenience some slight modifications are made. The designations of the local times with the hour at Greenwich noon, the meridian to which the time corresponds, the boundary meridians at which the hour changes, and the stations on the Canadian Pacific Railway at which the change is made are as follows : — The Time Zones op North America, Designation. Atlantic. Eastern. Central. Mountain. Paciflo. Central Meridian, . Greenwich Noon, . C.P.R. Stations where Standards Change, 60° 8 a.m. 75° 7 a.m. 90° 6 a.m. 105° 5 a.m. 120° 4 a.m. Fort- William Brandon. Donald. It will be noticed that the time remains unchanged in actual usage from Quebec to Port-Arthur, a range of 28° of longitude, and in this belt by far the greater part of the population of the Dominion is located. Composition of Population, — Although a British posses- sion, the Dominion of Canada is by no means homogeneous in respect to the origin of its population. In 1891, 86 per cent. 38 NEW LANDS. of the population were native-born, and the origin of the remaining 14 per cent, was as follows : — Origin, . Number, . Origin, . Namber, . Origin, . Number, . British Empire. 490,200 Bussia. 9,200 Southern Europe 3,000 United States. 80,900 Scandinavia. 7,800 China. 9,100 Germany. 27,700 Prance. 5,400 Other Countries. 13,900 There are about 100,000 aborigines belonging to different tribes of "Red Indians." Several thousand Austro - Hungarian ■subjects, chiefly from Galicia and Bukovina, have immigrated since 1891 ; and the number of Russians has also been notably increased; but the tendency is for all the foreign elements, ■except the French, to become absorbed in the general popula- tion, and to adopt English as their sole language in the second, or, at most, in the third generation. The reason of the non- assimilation of the French is historical. Eastern Canada was originally a French colony, and, on its conquest by the British, in 1759, the French Roman Catholic population were guaranteed in the possession of their language, laws, and religion. They numbered at that time only about 60,000, but, being perhaps the most prolific civilised people in the world, they now amount to nearly a million and a-half. Thus it happens that the census of 1891 recorded 1,405,000 French speakers and 3,428,000 English speakers in the Dominion. The geographical grouping of the people is important. The French live mainly in the province of Quebec, which is more French than English; while the recent immigrants from con- tinental Europe are scattered in groups amongst a predominantly British population in Manitoba and the North- West Territories. The "Indians" live, for the most part, beyond the settled areas ; and the Chinese are practically found in large numbers only in British Columbia. The half-breeds between French and Indians carry on a great part of the trade by dog-sledge .and canoe in the northern part of the country. There is, of I course, perfect religious freedom, and no established church ■exists ; the Roman Catholic Church includes two millions of the population, and the Methodists, Presbyterians, and Anglicans number about three-quarters of a million each. Such peculiarities of the prevailing population as may be of im- portance to the settler or trader will be described when speak- ■' ing of the several provinces. It is to be noted that the 'population is far more uniformly distributed over the land than THE DOMINION OF CANADA. (39 is the case in Australia or temperate South America. The tendency to concentrate in a few large cities has never manifested itself to the same degree in Canada as, for example, in Victoria, New South Wales, or the Argentine Republic. Resources of the Dominion. — Originally the fur trade was the staple industry of Canada ; subsequently, lumbering took the first place in the interior, and fisheries on the coast ; at the present time the agricultural resources are the chief source of wealth in the country, while in the near future mining bids fair to outdistance all rivals. Ultimately, if the land is wisely developed, and the population is steadily augmented, the pro- portionate development of all the varied resources foreshadows a brilliant future to Canada as a highly-civilised country, de- pendant on the outer world for nothing but tropical products. The ratio of value of the various exports from Canada in 1897 may be stated roughly as follows : — Products of . . Farming. Poresta. Mines. Fisheries. Total. Percentage value, .51 30 10 9 100 Thus it appears that, from the point of view of external trade the farming interest (especially cattle-breeding and dairy farming) in Canada outweighs all others taken together, and the Government policy for developing the country is shaped mainly in accordance with this circumstance. Before considering the opportunities for further development in the different provinces, and the encouragement held out by the governments, federal and provincial, it is necessary to look at the general condition of the whole .Dominion in the light of each of the great groups of industries. Fur Trade, — The Hudson Bay Company, founded in 1670, was the first to develop the fur trade in the north and west of America, and is still the principal agency, although with changed times it has undergone development, and its stores, originally created to trade with Indians in the wilderness, have grown into the finest emporiums of retail trade that have ever been established in a new country. Furs are collected by the Indians throughout the whole of the North- West Territories and in British Columbia, and brought to the posts maintained by the company at intervals over the country. While the posts from Victoria and Vancouver along the railway line eastward to Montreal and Quebec are in daily communication, the outlying forts on the Mackenzie and on the rivers flowing into Hudson Bay are only visited once a year by boats bringing supplies and taking away skins. Tyro centres of coUection are still 40 NEW LANDS. maintained on Hudson Bay — York Factory, at the mouth of the Nelson River, visited annually by a steamer from London ; and Moose Factory, at the head of James Bay, also visited by a sailing vessel from London once a year. The company's annual fur sales realise, as a rule, from £200,000 to £300,000. The furs which are produced in greatest quantity are, in order of number — Beaver, marten, mink, and musquash ; but include also large quantities of badger, bear, deer, fisher, fox, lynx, otter, rabbit, racoon, skunk, wolf, and wolverine.* The fur trade is not, however, one which is susceptible of any great future development. Fisheries. — Although fishing vessels of every nationality ply their trade on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, and much of the catch is landed on that island and in foreign ports, the share which falls to Canada, together with the coast fisheries on the east and west and the fresh-water fisheries, make up a vast and rapidly-increasing source of wealth. The total value is indeed estimated at $30,000,000, or £6,000,000 annually, or two hundred times as much as in the year 1850. There are over 60,000 fishermen in the Dominion. Professor Prince t recognises seven great fishery divisions, which may be briefly summarised as follows : — 1. The Atlantic, from the Bay of Fundy to the coast of Labrador, including both deep-sea and inshore fishing of cod, mackerel, haddock, halibut, herring, and hake. To these the capture of seals and white whales, and the taking of lobsters and oysters, may be added to make up a total of $10,000,000 (£2,000,000) a year. 2. EstiiMrine and Inland Waters of tJie Maritime Provinces yielding salmon, shad, gaspereaux (alewife), striped bass, &c., to a total value annually of $2,500,000 (£500,000). 3. The Great Lakes and Tributaries. — Here the lake whitefish, lesser whitefish or lake herring, great lake trout, sturgeon, pickerel, black bass, and many other fresh-water fish are caught to the annual value of $2,000,000 (£400,000). 4. Great North-West Lakes (including Manitoba) yielding similar fish to the value of $1,000,000 (£200,000). 5. Rocky Mountain Plateau, fresh-water fisheries, including land-locked salmon, whitefish, &c., as yet little utilised, and the value of which is not recorded. * From articles on the fur trade, by Sir Donald Smith (Lord Strathcona), in the Handbook of Canada. Toronto (British Association meetine). i897. ^ t Handbook to Canada, Toronto, 1897. THE DOMINION OP CANADA. 41 6. Pacific Coast Fisheries. — These include salmon of several species which are caught at various places on the coast and in the estuaries, and tinned in enormous quantities ; but there are also halibut, skill (black cod), oolachan (candle fish), anchovy, herring, and others, which as yet have hardly been touched. The annual value is about |4,000,00U (X800,000), but this is. capable of being enormously increased. 7. Hudson Bay and Arctic Waters, in which whale, walrus, and seal hunting are still to be carried on, and where fish of marketable value are also doubtless to be found. The fisheries of Canada are regulated, and the statistics collected, by a highly efficient department of the Federal Government, and a fleet of armed cruisers ensures from the fishing boats respect for the regulations, and collects and distributes information as to the movements of the shoals of migratory fishes. Close seasons are established during spawning time, fishing licences are granted, specifying the nature of the nets to be employed, obstructions to the movement of fish and the pollution of rivers are prohibited, and the artificial pro- pagation of fish is carried out at a number of stations. On the east coast there is little room for additional com- petition, but in the great lakes, the inland waters, and all along the west coast, there are still great opportunities for developing the fisheries. Forests. — The traveller along the Canadian Pacific Railway, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans, looks in vain for a typical Canadian forest. Everywhere, where trees once grew, either the axe of the settler in clearing land for cultivation, or the unguarded fire of the prospector and railway engineer, has wrought destruction. If not checked, the fires that follow the pioneer will, before many decades, have destroyed one great resource of the Dominion of Canada. As yet, however, beyond the burnt railway belt, the forests stretch for vast distances, and cover an area estimated altogether at from 1,000,000 to 1,250,000 square miles. A continuous forest may be said to extend right across the continent from the interior of the Labrador peninsula and the Maritime Provinces to the Pacific coast, bounded on the north by the Tundra, along a line running from 60° N. on Hudson Bay to 67° on the Mackenzie River, and interrupted on the south by the belt of prairies or treeless plain* which run from the international boundary on the Red River of the North to the Saskatchewan. Even the prairie belt i» naturally wooded on its occasional hills and along the rivers. While coniferous trees chiefly prevail, there are great woods 42 NEW LANDS. of birch, aspen, elm, maple, and many others, the distribution of which will be described when speaking of the separate provinces. In 1891 a capital of over $100,000,000 (£20,000,000) was invested in industries directly dependent on the forests, and yielded an annual product of the value of $125,000,000 (£25,000,000.) The slow-growing white or Weymouth pine is at present the most important tree in Canada from the economic point of view, and it grows abundantly in the eastern provinces ; but, from the amount of cutting, its extinction as a commercial timber tree is already threatened. Next to it in value comes the spruce, the chief timber of the Maritime Provinces and of the region north of that in which the pine flourishes. In the subarctic forest and in the richly wooded Pacific slope of British . Columbia there is a vast supply of timber but no market. The eastern rivers flowing to the St. Lawrence and to the sea are naturally the best adapted for floating timber down to tide water for export to Europe, and hence the lumbering trade has developed mainly round the St. Lawrence. Here there is little opening for new- comers, as all the operations of cutting and floating timber require trained workmen, and the various contingencies affecting the trade make experience absolutely essential in directing proceedings. However, in the west, on the margin of the prairies, or in the neighbourhood of new mining camps, lumbering and saw-milling may still prove remunerative, even to new hands. Timber cutting in the Crown forests, which include most of those still available, is carried out under the supervision of the provincial governments, and under regulations which differ in different places. As yet sufficient regard is not paid to forestry, and, unless some very definite action is soon taken to ensure the reproduction of the woods, Canada must cease to be a great timber exporting country. The destruction of forests always brings other evils in its train, both as regards the climate and the soil, deterioration in either of which must inevitably affect agriculture. Mineral Wealtli. — The mineral resources of Canada are of vast extent, and as yet so Httle utilised as to form an almost new field for capital. Hitherto the development of the country has been carried on mainly from the agricultural point of view, a,nd as Professor Coleman observes " the bulk of the population have grown up with no knowledge of mines, and with the thrifty yirtues of farmers and merchants averse to risking their savings THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 43 in an untried and hazardous occupation." * More capital, particu- larly from Canadian and British sources, is, in fact, the great desideratum in order to make the vast mineral wealth of Canada an instrument in the economic development of the country. Nothing strikes the visitor to the mining centres more forcibly than the fact that so many of the well-equipped and flourishing establishments are filled with American machinery, maintained by American capital, and directed by American mining and metallurgical experts. The mineral wealth of Canada is, indeed, to a very large extent, utilised in enriching citizens of the United States. The main work of the Dominion Government towards utilising the mineral resources is carried on by the Geological Survey, a department admirably administered and very efficiently manned. Its duties are to construct a geological map of the whole Dominion of Canada, and this is being done on various scales, and with different degrees of detail. No topographical maps of the outlying regions being as yet in existence, the first task of the Geological Survey is to construct a topographical map, on which the geological data are afterwards laid down. In the far north, where the geological surveyors have in many cases been the first explorers, the scale adopted is usually from 8 to 25 miles to an inch, but in the regions actually undergoing development the work is much more exact, and the scale enlarged to 4 miles, or even 1 mile to the inch. These maps form invaluable guides to the prospector who knows how to use them, and the first work of any one investigating the mineral value of a region that has been surveyed is to study the published maps. They must be looked upon merely as guides, for the work has been in most cases rapidly done, and many details are necessarily disregarded. Handbooks to the maps, and elaborate reports, place the investigations of the surveyors at the service of all. The Survey also takes account of the statistics of mineral production throughout the Dominion. The present state of mining, and the nature of the chief mineral products, are only partially shown in the. following table, which includes the whole Dominion. The rapid progress of gold mining has been remarkable since 1898. These are all the minerals the production of which exceeds a million dollars in annual value, but asbestos, iron ore, mica, phosphates, and several other minerals, besides building stones, are by no means unimportant ; and every one of these products exists in an easily accessible form and in enormous quantities. * Handbook to Canada, p. 306. u NEW LANDS. Mineral Prodttcts in 1897. Product. AmountBaised voino in t in Tons. ^*'"® '° *■ Value in £. Coal, .... Gold (in 1899, $21,000,000), Silver, . Copper, . Nickel, . Lead, . Petroleum, 3,876,000 7,442,000 6,190,000 3,322,000 1,500,000 1,400,000 1,397,000 1,011,000 1,488,400 1,236,000 663,400 300,000 280,000 279,000 202,000 Gold is found in every province, and will be referred to under each of those in which its presence in payable quantities is assured. The provinces producing most were formerly the same as for coal — Nova Scotia and JBritish Columbia. Recently the Yukon Territory has sprung into rivalry with both, and great goldfields have been discovered in western Ontario. It is necessary to distinguish between (1) the placer deposits, in which the nuggets and particles of gold have simply to be picked up or washed from the gravel and sand ; (2) the quartz mines, which must be quarried or mined out, the ore crushed, and the gold extracted by amalgamation or chemical processes ; and (3) the ore in which gold is chemically com- bined with other elements, or so mixed as to require smelting and elaborate metallurgical operations in order to separate it. The amount of capital required for successful working thus differs greatly in different localities on account of the machinery required, as well as the convenience or difficulty of providing means of transport and of obtaining supplies. Silver has been produced in Quebec, Ontario, and British Columbia; and at present it is obtained almost exclusively from silver-lead ores in the Kootenay district of British Columbia. Copper ore is mined in Quebec, Ontario, and British Columbia. It has been usual to export the roughly smelted maUe to the United States to be worked up, not so much for the copper as for the nickel with which it is associated at Sudbury, in Ontario, and the gold by which it is accompanied in the Kootenay district. But copper ore was formerly mined for its own sake at many points along the shores of the Great Lakes, and the supply is by no means exhausted. The Nickel deposits at Sudbury are the most extensive in the world, and are largely worked, the ore being nickeliferous THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 45- pyrrhotite; but none of the metal is produced in Canada, the final metallurgical process being carried on in the United States. The small quantity of Iron mined in the Dominion is surprising, and while over 1,000,000 tons of pig iron were produced in 1893, not one-half of that amount is now made, the low price of British and American iron, and the cheapness of transport, making it cheaper to import than to manufacture. Ores of platinum, zinc, chromium, and mercury exist in many places, but are scarcely utilised. Coal is worked mainly in the extreme east and west — in Nova Scotia and Vancouver Island — but vast deposits, estimated to underlie an area of 65,000 square miles, exist in the North West Territories along the base of the Rocky Mountains. Petroleum, often accompanied by natural gas, is most worked in the Ontario Peninsula ; but a vast untouched field is believed to exist in the North West Territories, and smaller quantities occur at many different points. While the Dominion Government exercises rights, grants mining claims, and exacts royalties on gold in the territories, several of the provinces have their own Department of Mines and their own mining laws. Such departments exist in Nova Scotia, Quebec, Ontario, and British Columbia. Agriculture. — The present wealth of Canada arises mainly from its farm lands, and it is a matter of great importance to know how far these can be extended in the outlying districts. Soil, climate, and surface are the main factors to consider, and these have all been carefully studied. The question is so large that it must be treated with some degree of detail. Existing Agricultural Besources. — At the census of 1891, the total area of improved land was 28,500,000 acres, of which nearly 20,000,000 acres were used for growing grain. Yet Canada has not become the great grain exporting country that these figures would seem to promise ; as a matter of fact, the export of oats and barley, once of great importance, has almost ceased, and the export of wheat was once nearly twice as large as it is now. Of the 100,000,000 bushels of oats and the 20,000,000 bushels of barley grown annually in the Dominion, fully nine-tenths are used in the country as food for animals, and the same is true, though to a less extent, for wheat. Mr. William Saunders, Director of the Dominion Experimental Farms, says* : — " While Canadian farms are producing annually increasing quantities of grain, these, with the exception of wheat, are being mainly converted into animals and their products, • Handbooh to Canada, 1897, p. 341. 46 NEW LANDS. which constitute the principal items of export. The increase in the manufacture of dairy products has been very helpful to the cattle trade, and at the same time it has promoted a rapid development of the swine industry. . . . By exporting animals and their products, in place of coarse grains, the elements of fertility taken from the ground by these crops are largely returned in the manure of the animals, and thus the fertility of the land is kept up." The agriculture of Canada takes account of fruit to a very considerable extent, especially apples. The distribution of the various products ■will be referred to when speaking of the pro- vinces ; but it may be stated generally that " mixed " and dairy farming prevail in Quebec and eastern Ontario, fruit growing in the Ontario peninsula, wheat growing in Manitoba, and cattle ranching in the territories occupying the great plains that slope up to the Rocky Mountains. The actual value of the various classes of agricultural exports' in 1897 was as follows : — ExpoBTS or Animal Products in 1897. Cheese. Cattle. Horses. Sheep. Eggs. "product™^' $14,676,000 $7,133,000 $1,711,000 $1,002,000 $978,000 $13,745,000 £2,935,000 £1,426,600 £342,200 £200,500 £195,600 £2,749,000 BxpoETS or Vegetable Products in 1897. Whpat ^ Other and Wheat Flour. ^«^- -*»»'«»• H»y- A^icultural Products. $7,085,000 $2,353,000 $2,682,000 $999,000 $4,863,000 £1,417,000 £470,600 £536,400 £199,800 £972,600 Government Encouragement to Agriotdture. — Both the Dominion and the provincial governments devote much atten- tion to the improvement of the land already in use, the settling of new land by farmers, and the introduction of new methods and crops. The departments of the Dominion Government concerned in these works are the Ministries of the Interior and of Agriculture. Under the Minister of Agriculture a number of experimental farms and agricultural schools and colleges have been estab- lished. The function of the experimental farms cannot be better expressed than in the words of the Act which called them into existence : — " To test the merits, hardiness, and adaptability of new op untried varieties of cereals and other field crops, of grasses, THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 47 forage plants, fruits, vegetables, plants, and trees, and to dis- seminate among persons engaged in farming, gardening, or fruit growing upon such conditions as may be prescribed by the Minister, samples of the surplus of such products as are con- sidered to be specially worthy of introduction. " To test the relative value for all purposes of different breeds of stock, and their adaptability to the varying climate or other conditions which prevail in the several provinces of the Dominion and in the North- West Territories. " To examine into the economic conditions involved in the production of butter and cheese. " To analyse fertilisers, whether natural or artificial, and to conduct experiments with such fertilisers, in order to test their comparative value as applied to crops of different kinds. " To examine into the composition and digestibility of foods for domestic animals, to conduct experiments in the planting of trees for timber and shelter, to examine into the diseases to which cultivated plants and trees are subject ; also, into the ravages of destructive insects, and to ascertain and test the most useful preventives and remedies to be used in each case. " To investigate the diseases to which domestic animals are subject, to ascertain the vitality and purity of agricultural seeds, and to conduct any other experiments and researches bearing upon the agricultural industry of Canada which are approved by the Minister." The Central Experimental Farm is situated at Ottawa, in a convenient place for experiments required in the populous provinces of Quebec and Ontario. Four others on a somewhat smaller scale are scattered over the Dominion, performing similar services for the other provinces. One of these is at Nappan, in Nova Scotia, near the New Brunswick boundary ; a second is at Brandon, in the middle of the prairie province, Manitoba ; a third at Indian Head, in Assiniboia, in the drier climate of the plains sloping to the Rocky Mountains ; and the fourth at Agassiz, in British Columbia, takes account of the mild and moist climate of the Pacific coast belt. Besides the experimental work, the staffs of these farms form so many bureaux of agricultural information, answering without charge the inquiries addressed to them. Samples of grain or of seeds sent in by farmers are tested, and samples of new varieties of grain, the qualities of which are likely to suit particular localities, are sent out free of charge to any farmer willing to try them. Within seven years no less than 120,000 applicants availed themselves of this opportunity. Seedling trees are also 48 NEW LANDS. distributed in the same way. Applied botany and entomology are also part of the work done on the experimental farms ; new fruits and trees have been introduced, and warnings as to noxious insects issued. The soils of new parts of the country are analysed at the experimental farms before settlement has taken place, and fertilising agents are also analysed and reported «n. A former source of considerable export trade, the ginseng plant, seems to have entirely dropped out of sight. This plant (Panax quinquefolium), though yielding a root inferior to the allied species in Korea, meets with an unfailing demand in China, and amongst Chinamen everywhere, and its cultiva- tion should be profitable. An elaborate quarantine system for live stock is designed to keep the Dominion of Canada free from contagious cattle disease, and to stamp out any disease that may appear within its boundaries. All imports of cattle or other live stock by sea must take place at Oharlottetown, in Prince Edward Island ; Dartmouth, opposite Halifax, in Nova Scotia; St. John, New Brunswick ; Point Levis, opposite Quebec ; or Victoria, on Vancouver Island ; and three months' quarantine is imposed before the animals are allowed to be removed to the farms. Since 1897, inspection has been substituted for quarantine on cattle entering from the United States, the arrangement being reciprocal. " There is," according to Professor M'Eachran, the chief inspector of live stock for the Dominion, " no stock country in the world where the health of animals is so remarkable. Rinderpest, pleuro-pneumonia, and foot-and-mouth disease do not exist." The agricultural schools and colleges give practical instruction in the methods of farming best suited to Canada, and any young man going to Canada with a view to settling as a farmer would do well to take out a course of instruction in one of them. The Canadian Government especially warns people against paying a premium to unknown farmers as pupils. The system has given rise to much abuse, and it is always better to take employ- ment as a farm hand, receiving wages and acquiring practical insight at the same time. Public Lands, — By the Act of Confederation the public lands — i.e., lands not held by individuals or corporations — and minerals situated in the provinces of Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick were vested in the provincial governments, by which alone they can be assigned. In 1870 the territorial rights of the Hudson Bay Company in the north- THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 49 -west were surrendered to the Dominion Government in return for a money payment, and the grant of land around the trading posts, and of one-twentieth of all the land in the "Fertile Belt" — i.e., the great area lying between the Lake of the Woods and Lake Winnipeg on the east, and the Rocky Mountains on the west, and stretching from the international boundary to the North Saskatchewan River. When British Columbia joined the Dominion, all the land within 20 miles of the Canadian Pacific Railway was made over to the central Government, and later on 3,000,000 acres in the Peace River district were similarly trans- ferred. The regulations as to provincial Crown lands will be considered later, it is only necessary here to describe the arrangements made by the Dominion Government as to the public lands of Manitoba, the North- West Territory, and the assigned portions of British Columbia. Dominion Iiands. — The Dominion Land Survey is charged with surveying and laying out in townships the public lands available for agriculture or pasturage, before these are opened to settlement. In order to simplify the registration of land and the transfer of property, the townships are all formed on a common plan, each measuring 6 miles square, or 36 square miles in area. The townships are bounded north and south by parallels of latitude, and in order to adjust their square forms to the converging meridians of longitude, the lines running at right angles to these (nearly north to south) only extend through four rows of townships, and are re-adjusted for the four further north. The townships are numbered from south to north, starting from the international boundary, and the ranges or rows of townships from east to west, starting from the principal meridians. The first "principal meridian " is nearly coincident with longitude 97° 30', lying a little west of Winnipeg, and is the only one from which ranges are measured east as well as west. To the west 34 ranges lead to the second principal meridian (102° W.), and west of that 30 ranges lead to the third principal meridian (106° W.), in the west of Assiniboia and Saskatchewan, and so on to the fifth. Each township is subdivided into 36 " sections," each of which measures 1 square mile, and they are numbered consecutively in ■east and west rows alternately, backward and forward as shown in Pig. 1, p. 18. A uniform system is adopted for Manitoba and the territories lying west of it, so that any square mile of land in these districts may be exactly defined by the number of the section, the number of the township row, and of the range, the last being qualified by the words east or west of a particular 4 50 NEW LANDS, meridian. The sections are subdivided into quarter sections of 160 acres. These, when not already disposed of, are open to settlement, a homestead of 160 acres being given free of charge (except for a registration fee of $10 or £2), on condition that the applicant builds a dwelling, lives on the land for at least six months of each year, and brings a certain proportion of it, under cultivation. The patent of ownership is not given until the homestead has been occupied for three years, but a settler is allowed to obtain full possession of his homestead at an earlier date, by purchase, if he so desires. An adjoining quarter section of land may be subsequently purchased at a fixed rate from the Dominion Government. No. 8, three-quarters or the whole of No. 26 in each township, are, by agreement, the property of the Hudson Bay Company. The other even-numbered sections are available for homesteads. Most of the railways in the far west have extensive grants of land within a belt of 24 miles on each side of the line, having all the odd-numbered sections except Nos. 11 and 29, which are reserved as endowment for schools. The school lands are to remain vacant until the township is fairly well settled, then when they have attained a reasonable approximation to their maximum value they are to be sold, and the purchase money invested in Canadian Government stock, the proceeds being applied to the maintenance of public schools. The Hudson Bay and Railway lands are usually available for purchase at low rates, the situation of the Railway lands giving them considerable value. Grazing leases are granted on Dominion lands at the rate of one penny per acre per annum, 100,000 acres being the largest amount let to one person. The lease is held subject to the immediate and continuous utilisation of the land, by placing upon it in each of the first three years one head of cattle to every 60 acres, bringing up the total to one head of cattle for every 20 acres. Special rules are in force as to mineral lands, which will be dteseribed under the provinces. The holders of homesteads or purchased farms on Dominion lands, which are without timber, are entitled, on obtaining a licence from the Crown Timber Agent (for which a nominal registration fee is charged), to cut as much timber as they require for constructive purposes or fuel, on unoccupied Crown land. When there is timbered land in the vicinity a settler may purchase a wood lot not exceeding 20 acres at a low rate. Licences to cut timber for sale on surveyed or unsurveyed Dominion lands are granted by the Crown Timber Agent, after open competition, to the highest bidder. THE DOMINION OF CANADA. 51 The work of the Dominion Land Survey had, up to the end of 1898, completed the survey of a little over 80,000,000 acres, or 500,000 farms of 160 acres each. This, although equal to 125,000 square miles, is a very small fraction of the vast areas of Crown lands available for cultivation between Lake Superior and the Rocky Mountains. The disposal of the Dominion lands is carried out through a number of local agencies, as well as at the central office in Ottawa, and the Railway and Hudson Bay lands are also to be had through local agents. Information is freely given to inquirers ; letters should be addressed to the Commissioners of Dominion Lands, Ottawa ; or to the Agent for Dominion Lands at the following towns in the west : — Winnipeg, Minnedosa, Dauphin, Brandon, Alameda, Yorkton, Prince Albert, Regina, Lethbridge, Edmonton, Red Deer, Calgary, Kamloops, and New Westminster. Railways and Waterways. — Canada possesses railways to the length of almost 17,000 miles, most of these being single lines. The most remarkable railway system is the Canadian Pacific (familiarly known as the C.P.R.), on which through trains run from Montreal to Vancouver, a distance of 2906 miles, in four days. The line has several branches, the most important being that through the Crow Nest Pass, from Leth- bridge to the Kootenay gold-mining region. Other lines run out towards the north-west from several points of the Canadian Pacific west of Winnipeg ; and there are junctions with United States lines in the east, the centre, and the west. The Grand Trunk Railway has an extensive system in eastern Canada, especially in the Ontario peninsula ; and the Inter-Colonial Railway (which belongs to the Dominion Government) connects the Maritime Provinces' with Montreal. There are many junctions with the railways of the United States in the eastern provinces, at Winnipeg, and in British Columbia. The develop- ment of the North- West Territories is being largely carried on by a system of railway extension, river and lake navigation also playing an important part. Inland navigation takes place mainly on the St. Lawrence system. Access to the great lakes from the sea is given by the St. Lawrence and Niagara Rivers, the various rapids and water- falls being avoided by 70 miles of canals. The locks on these are mostly 270 feet long by 45 wide, and have 14 feet of water on the sills ; but a few short lengths have smaller locks, and admit vessels of only 9 feet draught. These are, however, being enlarged to a standard size. The rapids of the St. Marie 62 NEW LANDS. River, between Lake Superior and Lake Huron, are overcome by the Sault Ste. Marie Canal (usually known as the Soo Canal), under 1 mile in length, with its single lock 900 feet long and 60 feet wide. The rivers and lakes of British Columbia and of the North-West Territories are in many cases navigated by light draught steamers for great distances. A railway from Winnipeg to a port on Hudson Bay has often been suggested, in order to bring the centre of the country within easy reach of ocean steamers ; but the uncertainty of the navigation of Hudson Strait, on account of ice, has hitherto prevented its adoption. Ocean Steamers. — The Allan, Dominion, and Beaver lines run large passenger steamers from Liverpool direct to Quebec and Montreal in the summer, and to Halifax or St. John in winter, when the St. Lawrence is frozen. They take about nine days for the passage ; but a service of faster steamers has been spoken of, which should reduce the time to six days or less. The Canadian Steamship Company, in 1898, started steamers from Milford to Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, and the port of Paspebiac, on Chaleur Bay, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, ■which is never blocked by ice, although there is considerable risk in being caught in floating pack ice in the Gulf of St. Lawrence during the winter months. On the west side, the Canadian Pacific Company runs steamers fortnightly or monthly to Japan and to Australia. 53 CHAPTER IV. THE DOMINION OP CANADA— EASTERN PROVINCES. Nova Scotia — Farming — Mining — New Brunswick — Forests — Prince Edward's Island — Quebec — People — Climate — Natural Divisions — Communications — Resources — Lumbering — Minerals — Mining Laws — Ontario — Access and People — Natural Divisions — Climate — Com- munications — Laws — Resources — New Agricultural Land — Timber — Fisheries — Mining — Corundum — Iron — Copper and Nickel — Silver and Platinum — Gold — Mining Laws. Nova Scotia. The Province of Nova Scotia occupies the peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Pundy. It lies further east and south than any other province in Canada, but the advantages of climate due to low latitude and proximity to the sea are largely counterbalanced by the frequent fogs due to the cold current which passes along the coast. The ex- cessive cutting of the forests in the eastern coast belt has led to a deterioration of the climate of the interior, by allowing the raw sea winds to penetrate unchecked. Halifax, the capital, is one of the few Canadian seaports which is open all the year round, and the Inter-Oolonial Railway carries a considerable volume of trade in winter to the inland provinces. The fishing and lumbering industries, which are carried out on a large scale, occupy a considerable part of the population, but require local knowledge and experience in those seeking to pursue them. Panning. — The best farming land is all occupied, and the Crown lands of the province, which are still undisposed of, do not oflFer much inducement to newcomers. The salt marsh land of the Annapolis Valley is one of the best parts of Canada for fruit growing, especially for apples, and also for general farming. This land is consequently comparatively dear, costing from £3 to .£8 per acre when improved and in good order. The general conditions of life are easy, the farmhouses being particularly 54 NEW LANDS. well built and comfortable, -with good markets for all farm products, while the variety . of other industries which flourish in the province make it more like the old country than most parts of Canada. The majority of the inhabitants were born in the province, and, as a rule, are of Scottish descent. Grovernment help is o£fered in promoting creameries and cheese factories, and dairy farming is consequently being developed. Mining. — The best opportunities for enterprise will probably be found in the mining industry. The coalfields of the province cover about 635 square miles, and produce nearly 2,500,000 tons of coal annually. Most of the mines are at Sydney, in Oape Breton Island, in Cumberland County, at Joggins and Spring- hill, on the Inter-Colonial Railway, in the extreme west of the province, and in Pictou County, near New Glasgow. The total quantity of available coal in the province is estimated at 7,000,000,000 tons.* A royalty of 10 cents (5d.) per ton is paid to the provincial government on all coal sold or removed from the mine, or used in the manufacture of coke. Iron is also mined and manufactured to some extent, the ores being of very high quality. The Dominion Government pays a bounty of from $2 to $3 per ton on pig iron and steel manu- factured in Canada from Canadian ore. Gold is found in considerable quantities all along the south- east coast from Cape Breton to Yarmouth, the yield approaching 30,000 ounces per annum, worth, approximately, $637,000 (£127,000.) The gold of Nova Scotia occurs in quartz veins in Cambrian quartzites or slates. The fissure veins are usually narrow but rich, while the great bulk of the quartz is of low grade, and is only now being seriously attacked. The convenient situation of the goldfields, the favourable climate, and the steady supply of labour, permit of the ore being worked economically, the cost of mining and milling combined not exceeding $1.65 (6s. 8d.) per ton. The average richness in gold was, in 1893, $8.68 (39s. 6d.) per ton, but formerly it averaged $12 (50s.) The chief goldfields are at Stormont, on the coast, about 48 miles from Oape Canso ; the other important centres being Brookfield, Oaribou, TJniacke, Fifteen-mile Stream, and Sherbrooke. The industry could doubtless be greatly extended. The search for minerals in Nova Scotia is subject to the control of the provincial government, which grants a licence to prospect for gold or silver at a rate of 50 cents (2s.) per area per annum, the minimum number of areas taken being six and the * Statistical Tmvt Booh of Canada, for 1897, p. 116. THE DOMINION OF CANADA — EASTERN PROVINCES. 55 maximum 100. These gold or silver areas are laid out with the uniform dimensions of 250 feet north and south and 150 feet east and west. When a claim is made a lease of gold mining land is granted on the annual payment of 50 cents per area, and a royalty of 2 per cent, is charged on the metal produced, gold being officially valued at $19 per ounce smelted, or $18 per ounce unsmelted, and silver at $1 per ounce. In order to encourage alluvial gold mining, an Act was passed in 1898, allowing a grant of 500 areas to any person who expends 40 cents per area within three months, after which a payment of $250 (£50) secures a prospecting licence over the 500 areas for a year. Probably there is no other gold-mining region in the world where the precious metal may be obtained in circumstances so comfortable for the miner who does not wish to lose touch with civilisation, and who yet seeks to avoid the turmoil of great cities. Prospecting licences for other minerals are given for $30, available for five square miles for a year. New Brunswick. This province depends mainly on its forests, with which most of the surface is still covered, although the pine, the most valuable tree from the lumberer's point of view, has been nearly exhausted. Maple, beech, and other hardwood trees abound on the higher ground. The climate of New Brunswick is more continental than that of Nova Scotia, the winters being colder and the summers hotter. The conditions of agriculture are correspondingly more arduous, as the soil is, on the whole, no more favourable. Stock raising and dairy farming are more profitable than grain crops or fruit growing. The Grown lands, which are mostly rough, undulating ground, covered with forest, may be bought outright in any quantity at $1 per acre ; but free grants of 100 acres are made subject to a certain amount of clearing being done and a house built. The clearing of the land costs from 503. to 60s. per acre ; and, on the whole, the agricultural development of this province does not appear likely to attract the attention of outsiders. The fisheries are valuable, and the port of St. John does a considerable over-sea trade, and ha^ direct steamer services to and from England. Coal occurs in the Carboniferous rocks of the province, but it 56 NEW LANDS. is inferior in quality to that of Nova Scotia, and less easily worked. The mines are situated at Grand Lake, south-east of Frederioton. No great finds of gold have been made in the province. Prospectors' licences are issued in the same manner, and on almost the same terms, as in Nova Scotia. The direct railway from St. John to Montreal passes across the State of Maine, but other lines meet the Inter-Colonial Railway passing entirely through Canadian territory. Peince Edward Island. This is the smallest of the provinces of Canada, and, being a good country for mixed farming, it has been fairly well settled, so that, so far as new land is concerned, it need not be discussed here. The calling of the direct steamers from Milford to Paspebiac at Charlottetown, the capital of the island- province, may possibly tend to improve the commercial position by supplying a ready market to the farmers ; but, in default of mineral resources, no very great development is to be looked for. The Province of Quebec. People. — Quebec is the oldest province of Canada, the direct representative of the original seventeenth century colony of New France, and still the home of a large and increasing French-speaking population. In 1891, out of a total population in the province of 1,488,000, the number of French-speaking Eoman Catholics was 1,200,000, leaving 288,000 people of British origin, or, at least, of English speech. The large families of the French Canadians are a matter of great importance in a new country, the principal need of which is population, and it is interesting also to observe that there is a tendency for the return to Canada of French Canadians who had been induced to cross the frontier into the United States. Yet a great movement of population prevails from Quebec to the richer lands of the west. Climate, — The climate of Quebec is continental in character. The winters are long, with deep snow and severe frosts, the mean temperature during this period being 14° F., and tempera- tures falling below 0° F. are often registered. From the middle of November to the middle of April the rivers are frozen, and navigation on the lakes is stopped. The only seaport of the province which remains open all the year round is the fine Larhour of Paspebiac, on Chaleur Bay, in the Gulf of St. THE DOMINION OF CANADA — EASTERN PROVINCES. 57 Lawrence. Except at the time of thaw, in spring, the winter weather is dry, bright, and invigorating, offering no hindrance to such out-door work as lumbering, or to travelling. The summers are hot and dry, the latitude being that of southern Europe. A great variety of fruits which cannot be cultivated in England ripen out of doors. The rainfall is everywhere sufficient for agriculture. Natural Divisions. — The province of Quebec extends from the boundary of New Brunswick, along the south of the St, Lawrence, adjoining the United States, until the international boundary coincides with the centre of that river above Mon- treal. The western boundary with Ontario is formed by the Ottawa River and the meridian of 79° 30' W. as far as James Bay, in Hudson Bay. Thence the northern border lies along the East Maine and the Hamilton Bivers almost to the coast of Labrador, approximately in 53° N. The total area is nearly three times that of the United Kingdom, but at present the population is almost entirely confined to a narrow belt on each side of the St. Lawrence Biver. The natural divisions of the province are three in number — (a) The mountainous country on the United States border south of the St. Lawrence, forming the northern extremity of tli© Appalachian chain. The rocks forming this chain vary in age from Archaean to Devonian, and contain considerable mineral wealth, while the surface is thickly wooded. (b) The St. Lawrence Plain runs, between the mountains on the south and the edge of the plateau on the north, from a little below Quebec to the western extremity of the province. It has an area of about 10,000 square miles, upon which almost the whole popu- lation is concentrated, the land being for the most part cleared and cultivated. Indeed, there are few parts of Europe which present a richer or more settled appearance, or a closer succession of villages and farms, than does the St. Lawrence Plain between Quebec and Montreal. The portion of this track south of the river is called the " Eastern Townships," and is mainly settled by an English-speaking population. The soil, formed of glacial sands and clays, is very fertile. (c) The Laurentian Plateau occupies the whole of the north of the province. The greater part is uninhabited, except by a few native Indians, and much of it is still unexplored and unmapped. The plateau is composed of Archaean rocks, the surface having a mean elevation of from 500 to 2000 feet, and is strongly worn by glacial action. It presents a maze of interconnected rivers and lakes, which form the only lines of communication 68 NEW LANDS. ■with the interior. The rivers flow to the St. Lawrence, to Hudson Bay, and to the Labrador coast respectively. Communications. — The largest towns are all situated on the St. Lawrence. Quebec, the most eastern, is almost wholly T'rench as regards language and customs. It is the port at which all emigrants to Canada are landed, and has a railway running south-west to Montreal, and another running north to Lake St. John and the Saguenay River on the Laurentian Plateau. The Inter-colonial RaiWay, on the right bank of the St. Lawrence, is reached by means of a ferry to Levis. Montreal, 168 miles further up the St. Lawrence, is the largest town of Canada, with a population approaching a quarter of a million. The largest ocean steamers can reach it, the shallows in the river having been dredged out, and it is the great trade emporium of the country. The St. Lawrence is here crossed by the first railway bridge, and lines radiate in all directions — up the St. Lawrence to Toronto and the Ontario peninsula; up the Ottawa to Ottawa and the far west; due south to New York, and east to Quebec and to the Maritime Provinces. The St. Lawrence canal system begins near Montreal, at the Lachine rapids, which form the first obstruction to free navigation from the direction of the sea. Montreal being the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, as well as of the St. Lawrence canals, is the gateway to western Oanada. Resources. — The main resources of the province are agricul- ture and lumbering. Both are capable of great extension, although so much attention is given to the farming lands farther west, that little of the rougher country in Quebec has been taken seriously in hand. The breeding of cattle and the manu- facture of cheese receive great attention. The St. Lawrence Plain is in every way the fittest for agriculture, and it may be said to be fully occupied. In addition to maize and the ordinary farm crops of temperate countries, tobacco is largely grown, and apples, pears, and plums come to great perfection. On the Plateau fruit growing is unimportant, and the farmers are content with growing grain and keeping live stock. The provincial government pays great attention to the improvement of agriculture, by establishing and subsidising agricultural societies and shows, farmers' clubs, and organising lectures, as well as by opening agricultural schools. The growing of plants for industrial purposes, such as the sugar beet, flax, and hemp, might probably be introduced; while the industry of extracting sugar from the sap of the sugar THE DOMINION OF CANADA — EASTERN PROVINCES. 69 inaple is one that might perhaps be extended. The ginseng trade was once of great importance, but the author has been unable to find if it is still carried on. With the direct service of train and steamer to China now available, it would seem to be worth considering. The price of unimproved land in the Eastern Townships is from $2 to $5 per acre, but it may cost as much as $15 an acre to clear partially. Improved land costs from $20 to $30 per acre, and the system of railways is so good that there is always a ready market for farm produce. This is the only part of Quebec which at present offers great attractions to English- speaking settlers. In the less desirable parts of Quebec, especially on such parts of the Laurentian Plateau as have been opened up by railways for settlement — e.g., the Lake St. John and Saguenay districts — land may be obtained free of charge. It may also be bought at from lOd. to 2s. 6d. an acre, on certain conditions as to clearing. Any one over eighteen may get 100 acres of uncleared land free, on condition of building a house and having 12 acres cleared within four years. A farm of 100 acres (presumably in a more favourable locality than the ordinary homesteads) may be claimed under a special Act of the provincial Parliament, by the father or mother of a family of twelve living children. Lumbering. — There is hardly any part of the province, except the cleared portion of the St. Lawrence Plain, without a covering of forest. The white pine of the Ottawa Valley is the most valuable timber tree, and the largest lumbering trade is now carried on in the north-west of the province round Lake Temiscaming. There is no railway to the mining camps in this district, the route lying up the Ottawa Valley. The second great centre of lumbering camps is along the railway from Quebec to Lake St. John, where there are extensive woods of spruce, cedar, hemlock, and birch. As time goes on the timber - cutters have to move farther and farther into the interior, but the limiting condition is always the neighbour- hood of a river, to serve as a means of transport for the timber to the market. Hitherto the light coniferous woods which float readily have alone been cut in large quantities, there being no means of carriage for hard wood, which floats deeply or sinks in •water. As the only outlet from the country is by the St. Lawrence, timber-catting is confined to the basin of that river. Beyond the Height of Land, there lies a vast virgin country richly wooded and drained by great rivers to Hudson Bay and the Labrador coast. The rivers flowing into James Bay are well 60 NEW LANDS. adapted for floating timber, and if the navigation of that sea is seriously undertaken, there should be a great future for the timber trade on these northern slopes. Until that is done the forests cannot be utilised. Unlike most of the rest of Canada this region has not been devastated by forest fires, the few travellers who have passed through reporting only small patches of burnt trees. Here then is a great new land, not yet adequately explored, but from the reports of Mr. O'Sullivan, of the Quebec Land Survey, Dr. Bell, and Mr. Low, of the Dominion Geological Survey,* a region of vast resources. When cleared, the ground will in most cases form good agricultural land, there being many extensive deposits of rich clay soil; but the time when the land can be divided out into farms is still far distant. At present the only part of the Laurentian Plateau to be made available for settlers is in the Lake St. John region ; but when- railways are extended northward great developments may be expected in the Lake Temiscaming district and the Keepawa region west of it, as well as in the more remote regions to the north. The timber industry in Quebec is carried on by virtue of licences to cut wood issued by the provincial government, and a royalty is payable on the timber cut, which is measured for the purpose by a Government agent attached to each lumbering camp. Minerals. — Quebec suffers perhaps more than the other provinces from the neglect which mining has hitherto met with in Canada, and the available mineral wealth of the province is still practically unknown, while the statistics of actual mining are very unsatisfactory. Indications, however, are not wanting that there is a future for mining. Gold has been worked to a small extent in the auriferous gravels of the Chaudifere River, on the south of the St. Lawrence, and some attempts have been made at quartz mining in the county of Beauce, in the Southern Higlilands. So far as is known at present there is no large deposit of gold in the region. In the northern districts, especially in the rivers flowing to Hudson Bay, promising traces of gold have been reported, and it would certainly be worth the while of prospectors to pay attention to that region, where it is quite probable that goldfields may exist ; and if not gold other minerals of value are almost sure to be found. When once gold or some other * " Geological Survey of Canada," Annual Report, vol. viii. (1896), Part I. ; also Oeographical Journal, vol. x. (1897), p. 1. THE DOMINION OF CANADA — EASTERN PROVINCES. 61 valuable mineral has been discovered, a railway could easily be constructed to reach the deposit and the existing timber industry, and the prospective agriculture that would be thus aided in their development promise prosperity to the country, even should the mines become exhausted. Dr. Bell says of the northern region* : — " The Huronian rocks, which constitute our most productive ore-bearing system, are largely developed within its borders. The great belt of these rocks, mingled with eruptive greenstones and granites, which runs from Lake Superior to Lake Mistassini, attains its maximum width in this region, and measures 150 miles on a line drawn straight north from the head of Grand Lake to Lake Mattagami. A considerable proportion of the Huronian system of the district consists of various kinds of crystalline schists and pyroclastic rocks. These and the greenstones are intersected by numerous veins of quartz, many of which have a promising appearance for gold. Iron pyrites in economic quantities, and containing copper, was found in several localities on the Broadback Eiver." Silver, in small quantities, and Copper are obtained from the copper pyrites in the Oapelton district of the Eastern Townships, the ore being used mainly for the production of sulphuric acid. The metals are not reduced in Canada, but are exported as ore or matte to the United States. Iron is widespread in the form of bog ore, and other ores also occur, but they are mined and smelted only to a small extent. Magnetite and hematite could be largely extracted if there were a market, but tariffs restrict exports to the United States, and there is no coal supply in the province. It might be found profitable to send the fine ores to Nova Scotia for reduction, if the iron industry of Canada were taken up energetically. Chrome iron ore is mined to some extent in the Eastern Townships for export to the United States. Though coal is apparently quite absent from Quebec, and very little petroleum or natural gas occurs, there are immense deposits of Peat which have not yet been utilised. How far it would be profitable to compress and dry this peat for fuel depends rather on the state of the market than on the nature of the raw material. The Thetford district of the Eastern Townships is the greatest Asbestos mining district in the world, the mineral occurring in veins in solid serpentine. In 1896 about 12,000 tons were raised. The demand for asbestos is steady, and the production will doubtless be increased. * OeographicalJourncd, vol. x. (1897), p. 12. 62 NEW LANDS. . . Mica is extensively mined in the Ottawa valley, and phos- phates, which are occasionally worked for the manufacture of fertilisers, also occur in that region, although not as yet exported in large quantities. The land in the neighbourhood is, more' over, still unexhausted, and does not demand manure. The present low standard of mineral production in Quebec does not seem likely to last, and it may confidently be stated that the vast northern region in particular will repay careful prospecting, for hitherto the Eastern Townships and the neigh- bourhood of the large towns alone have been properly examined. Mining Laws.* — In Quebec mining rights are held to be property separate from the land on which the minerals are found. Mining concessions are divided into three classes, which' differ in unsurveyed and surveyed lands. (1) In unsurveyed territory a concession of the first class comprises 400 acres, one of the second class 200 acres, and of the third 100 acres. (2) In surveyed townships the classes contain four, two, and one lots respectively. A single individual can acquire mining rights over more than 400 acres only in exceptional cases, when the Governor in Council may increase the holding to 1000 acres, which is the maximum allowed in such cases. Crown lands of mineral value are obtained from the Commissioner of Colonisation and Mines, either as mining concessions by purchase, or on the' condition of being occupied and worked under a mining licence. In the sale of mining lands there are conditions as to com- mencing work within two years of purchasing, and expending a certain minimum sum in developing the mines. Minerals are divided for the purpose of land sales into two groups, some- what inaccurately termed "superior metals" and "inferior metals." Land containing the "superior metals" (which' include gold, silver, lead, copper, nickel, graphite, asbestos, mica, and phosphates) are sold at $10 (£2) per acre if within 12 miles of a railway, and $5 (£1) if more than 12 miles from a railway. Lands containing the "inferior metals" (which include all minerals not enumerated above) cost from $4 to $2 per acre. Exploration and prospecting licences cost from $2 to $5 per 100 acres if on surveyed territory, and $5 per square mile in. unsurveyed territory, the licence being valid for three months, and renewable. Such a licence implies an option of purchasing- any lot on which minerals may be discovered. * From the Statistical Year Book of Canada for 1897. THE DOMINION OF CANADA — EASTEEN PfiOVINCES. 63 It is to be presumed that exploration and prospecting in the unexplored territory to the north of the province is un- hampered by Government restrictions, which, indeed, it would be impossible to enforce in that region. The Pkovince op Ontaeio. Access and People. — Ontario is practically an inland province, for it only touches the sea on the southern shore of Hudson Bay, and the rapids of the St. Lawrence prevent largo ocean-going vessels irom reaching its borders. The system of canals, now being improved on a regular system, admits smaller vessels to the great lakes, which are themselves navigated for eight months in the year by large lake craft of considerable ton- nage. The lakes aiford a coast line of over 1700 miles in Ontario. This province offers a great contrast to Quebec in the character of its population, which is mainly of British origin, although Canadian born. A considerable number of the people are descended from the United Empire Loyalists, who left the United States at the close of the revolutionary war in order to remain British subjects. English is practically the only language used in the province, the alien elements being rapidly assimilated ; while the laws of the province are derived from the English common law, and not from the old French law, as in Quebec. The large city of Toronto, on Lake Ontario, is more akin to those of the United States than any other town of Canada, and is a centre of great industrial and commercial activity. Natural Divisions. — Ontario lies entirely to the north of the St. Lawrence River, and the central line of the great lakes — Erie, Ontario, Huron, and Superior. It is separated from Quebec by the Ottawa River and the meridian of 79° 30' W. up to James Bay, while the Albany River, flowing into that bay, with Lakes St. Joseph and Lonely, separate it from Keewatin on the north. In the west, the Rainy River forms the inter- national frontier, and Ontario meets Manitoba on the Lake of the "Woods. The surface of the province is of an undulating character, with neither mountains nor great elevations, the watersheds being usually marked by no prominent ridges. The portion surround- ing James Bay, unlike the adjoining part of Quebec, is made up of Silurian and Devonian limestones, which present little surface relief, and the district is swampy, thinly wooded, and practically without white inhabitants. 64 NEW LANDS. The greater part of the province, like Quebec, lies on the LaurerCtian Plateau, part of the great Archaean axis of the continent, made up of the much contorted Laurentian and Huronian rocks. The Huronian rocks, with the igneous intru- sions which characterise them, are of peculiar importance on account of the mineral wealth they contain. The Laurentian Plateau comes down to the coast of Lakes Huron and Superior, and stretches to the Lake of the Woods. In the south-west it contains some hilly scenery of a bold type, but the prevailing •character of the formation is a succession of gently undulated hills and hollows, much modified by ice action. The summits of the hills are usually almost bare rook with a very thin covering of vegetation, but in the valleys there are valuable forests of spruce and pine, which also flourish on the glacial and lacustrine deposits which fringe the borders of the lakes. This vast area is just beginning to be peopled. The prolongation of the St. Lawrence Plain occupies a com- paratively small area along the St. Lawrence, east of Lake Ontario, and this is not as yet thickly settled except in favoured parts. The fourth natural division of Ontario is the peninsula pro- jecting southward of the Laurentian Plateau between Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron. It is mainly underlain by horizon- tally stratified Silurian and Devonian limestones and other rocks, which, however, are in most cases thickly covered by glacial and lacustrine deposits forming a remarkably fertile soil. This is the most thickly settled part of the province, and perhaps contains the very best land in Canada, while it is actually the most southerly part of the Dominion extending to 42° S. The rivers of Ontario, except those forming the boundaries, are comparatively unimportant, although the Abittibi and Moose rivers, and others flowing into Hudson Bay may ulti- mately become useful. Climate. — The climate of the different parts of the province differs greatly. On the whole it has a more marked continental character than that of Quebec. North of Lake Superior the winter is very severe, the thermometer occasionally descending to — 50° F. The snow does not usually vanish from the forests until May, but the summer comes on quickly and is warm, the weather for four months being delightful. In September frosts begin, and by November navigation on the great lakes has ceased. Farther east, towards the Ottawa valley, the winters are less severe, and, although 0° F. is a common enough tem- THE DOMINION OF CANADA — EASTERN PEOVINCES. 65 perature, the air is particularly exhilarating. The Ontario peninsula has a milder, although still cold winter, but the severity of the season is tempered by the surrounding lakes, the temperature of which, of course, never falls below the freezing point. The summers are decidedly hot, resembling those of southern Europe, and fruit of many kinds ripen admirably. Snow does not cover the ground permanently until about the middle of December. The rainfall for the province, as a whole, is between 30 and 40 inches, well distributed throughout the year. The summer rainfall comes for the most part from passing thunderstorms, and cloudy days are uncommon at all seasons. Communications. — For the transport of grain and timber the shipping of the great lakes during the open season is very important, and will increase in importance when the canals con- necting the lakes with the St. Lawrence have been deepened, and the locks enlarged to admit vessels of 14 feet draught. The railway system of the Laurentian plain and the peninsula is highly developed. The lines of the Grand Trunk system run from Montreal along the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario to Toronto, whence they radiate over the peninsula, and make many junctions with the lines of the United States. The north of the province is untouched by the railway, but the Canadian Pacific line from Ottawa branches at Sudbury, one line running into the United States at Sault St. Marie, and the main line continuing along the northern shore of Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods where it enters Manitoba. Laws. — The laws of Ontario are in some ways more repressive than in the other provinces. Sunday observance is enforced by the prohibition of labour in bakehouses, and by the prohibition of all sales and of pleasure excursions, either by railway or steamer, on that day. The liquor trade is carried on under licences which will be refused if against the wish of a majority of the ratepayers ; and drink must not be sold to persons under twenty-one years of age, nor tobacco to persons under eighteen. How far these regulations are enforced it is difficult to say, but in some places within the province the liquor laws and the rules for Sunday observance were certainly not rigorously interpreted in 1897. Besoirrces. — Farming is the chief industry of Ontario, and, as in the other parts of Canada, the tendency is to depend less on cereals and more on animal produce, especially upon the manufacture of cheese and butter, both of which are produced in very large quantities. In 1898 there were over 2,200,000- 5 66 NEW LANDS. head of cattle in the province, 965,000 of which were milch cows, with about 1,600,000 sheep and 1,500,000 swine. In addition to ordinary farm produce, tobacco is grown to a considerable extent, and grapes, peaches, tomatoes, as well as commoner fruit, thrive well in the peninsula. It may be said that the rich land of the Ontario peninsula is fully taken up, and that only farmers with experience and capital need hope to make their way there. On the other hand, the reputation of the district induces many who intend to take up new land in more remote situations to learn their trade from the Ontario farmers, or at the admirable provincial agricultural college at Guelph. The farming of eastern Ontario, where the ground has long been cleared and cultivated, is the most scientific and prosperous in Canada. New Agrieultural Land. — As the Canadian Pacific Rail- way runs for almost a thousand miles through the unalienated Grown lands of the province, there is easy access to a large belt of country. Most of the land is covered with forest, or the remains of forests devastated by fire ; but, even if cleared, much of it is so rocky as to be almost valueless for agricultural purposes. Still, here and there, there are patches of' good land, and occasionally large areas presenting all the conditions required for successful settlement. The pine on land sold or granted to agricultural settlers remains the property of the crown. The settler is allowed as much as he requires for build- ing purposes, and all other kinds of timber becomes his absolute property. To pioneers content to work hard and live in solitude, the creation of new farms in Ontario offers some advan- tages, although perhaps less than in Manitoba or in the Territories. The available portions of the 106,000,000 acres of provincial lands cannot be more concisely described than in the words of Mr. T. W. Gibson, Secretary of the Bureau of Mines in Toronto, in the British Association Handbook to Canada, 1897 (pp. 216-218):— " 1. In the districts of Muskoka, Parry Sound, Haliburton, and Nipissing, and parts of the counties of Peterborough, Hastings, Frontenac, Addirigton, and Renfrew. Between five and six millions of acres in these districts have been opened for settle- ment, mainly under the provisions of the Free Grants and Homesteads Act, which give an actual settler 100 acres if he be a single man, or 200 acres if the head of a family, free of cost, on his performing settlement duties. These consist occasional floods, and a great part of the interior plateau has deficient rainfall, although, when irrigated, it is very fertile. North of the main line of the C.P.E.. there is still very little agriculture, although some of the valleys could be utilised, and the return of prosperity to the old goldfields should create a good market. Along the railway, and especially in the neigh- THE DOMINION OF CANADA — WESTERN PROVINCES. 105 tourhood of Kamloops, there is good ranching land, and irrigation would render a large area available for keeping cattle. The Lower Fraser valley and the delta of that river round New "Westminster are at present the districts where farming has had most attention, and if the low lands bordering the river could be permanently protected from floods they would become pros- perous through agriculture alone. One of the Dominion experimental farms is situated at Agassiz, on the Fraser. South of the main line of the O.P.R., in the Okanagan district, fruit farming has been found very successful, and hops are there cultivated with good results, the necessary cheap labour being supplied by the native Indians, families of whom ride in from near and far and pitch their tents picturesquely round the hop- fields in the picking season. This district contains good pastoral land also, the scenery much resembling that of the southern uplands of Scotland, and it is peculiarly favourably situated for transport. The Okanagan Lake, which is navigated by steamers, is connected at the north end, where Vernon is the chief town, with the main line of the C.P.R. at Sicamous, and at the south end at Fairview near Penticton with the extension of the Crow Nest line leading to the mining towns of the Kootenay. The western division of the Kootenay has comparatively little land suitable for farming ; most of it in the low ground of the Kootenay River and the head of Kootenay Lake, which has been embanked against floods, the rest of the country being forest-covered or bare mountain side. In East Kootenay there are good ranching lands, where farming is also possible by the aid of irrigation. The chief centre for farming is at Fort Steele, but there is, of course, competition with the great ranches of Alberta in supplying the mining population along the Crow Nest Railway. The most profitable stock has been found to be swine ; cattle also are in good demand, but sheep are little kept, although from the appearance of the hillsides of the interior plateau there would appear to be good pasturage for them in summer at least. The agricultural prospects appear to be best for fruit, all varieties of which, from apples to grapes and peaches, thrive on irrigated land in the southern part of the interior plateau, and for hops. There is a future also for market gardening, which is at present almost a monopoly of the Chinese settlers. Hemp and flax might also probably be cultivated; experiments cer- tainly show that flax thrives well in the New Westminster district and at Agassiz ; but for a long time to come the produc- 106 NEW LANDS. tion of food for the mining population is likely to occupy the attention of the farmers of British Columbia. The discovery of new placer mines^as a tendency to withdraw attention from farming for a time, as only experience teaches that certain profit attends the supply of food to miners, while the personal search for gold is a precarious speculation. Improved farms in the neighbourhood of towns are not cheap, but there is abundance of land to be had in remoter parts at Ipw rates, or free on performing homestead duties. Homesteads are granted by the Dominion Government in the railway belt 20 miles on each side of the line, and in other parts of the province by the Provincial Government, but, as a rule, only in remote parts of the country where there is little inducement to settle. Fisheries. — The fisheries of the province are extremely im^ portant, and still capable of much development. In total valjie they were equal in 1896 to the gold and silver produced in the province, and British Columbia ranks with New Brunswick, and is inferior only to Nova Scotia in the value of its fisheries. The ehief industries are those of the capture and canning of salmon, which are carried on mainly near the mouths of the Fraser in the south, and of the Skeena in the north. The fishermen are largely the coast Indians, who are magnificent boatmen and boat-builders, and the work in the canning factories is mainly done by Chinese, under white superintendence. The Quinnat, Chinook, or Tyee salmon {Oncorhynchus tschavnitscha) is the -variety most esteemed for food, and runs in spring, or from November to April ; but the sock-eye or blue-back salmon (0. nerkai) is preferred for canning, on account of the deep red oolour of its flesh, and its amazing abundance. The great shoals begin to enter the rivers in July, and continue throughout August ; a third variety, the Cohoe salmon (0. kisutch), of less ■value, appearing in September. As many as 2000 boats have been seen at work off the Fraser River in autumn, and each boat may, under favourable conditions, catch from 100 to 50O fish in a night. The export of canned salmon in 1897 amounted to 1,000,000 cases of 48 lbs. each. Halibut fishing all along the coast, and especially round the Queen Charlotte Islands, has recently assumed considerable proportions, the fish being of remarkable size and quality. They are usually dispatched in ice by rail to eastern Canada and the United States. Many other varieties of fish are also to be obtained. Every fisherman requires a licence, costing $10 per annum. There is a good deal of legislation as to fishing, including the THE DOMINION OF CANADA — WESTERN PROVINCES. 107 imposition of close times, the prohibition of Saturday and Sunday fishing for salmon, and of obstructions in rivers which might cut the fish ofi' from their spawning ground. Milling. — The mines of British Columbia are its greatest source of wealth at present, and if they continue productive long enough to attract a large population and encourage agri- culture, lumbering, and fishing, they will make the colony permanently prosperous. Gold and Silver. — British Columbia has been famous for its placer goldfields since 1858, but the development of the country through gold has been fitful, and subject to long periods of depression. Since the commencement of lode mining, however, the production of gold promises to become a steady source of prosperity, which will lead to improved communications, and help to develop all the resources of the country. The gold produced in British Columbia in 1897 amounted to $2,724,000, nearly half of the output of the Dominion, but the province now ranks second to the Yukon. Gold has been found in almost all the rivers of the province, and auriferous rooks have been discovered in so many parts of the country that it is probable that no district is without a supply of the metal, which it may pay to work. Naturally, however, it is only the richest regions that have become sufficiently well known to attract public attention, and hitherto mainly the placers. To recount all the places where signs of gold have been found, would be merely to detail the geography of the province, as far as it is known. It will only be possible to indicate the regions where the appearances promise a large future supply. Gold was first worked in the canyons of the Fraser River, and the prospectors quickly made their way to the upper tributaries where the Cariboo field once had immense camps. More pro- ductive placers drew away the fickle " diggers," but within the last few years the gold of the Fraser has been attacked by modern methods. Dredgers have been set to work in the river itself, and yield a fair return. Hydraulic mining is prac- tised in the Quesnelle and Barkerville districts, about 300 miles from the junction of the Fraser and Thompson, on a very large scale, there being no agricultural land near enough to be damaged by the tailings, and no serious risk of silting up the navigable part of the river. Some of the banks of old river gravel attain a thickness of 200 feet and over, and yield a good return when washed. In some places, however, the deeper gravel is cemented into a solid mass which must be quarried and crushed in order 108 NEW LANDS. to liberate the gold. The work is necessarily in the hands of large companies whose operations are sometimes of a gigantic nature, involving in certain instances the damming back of lakes in order to lay bare the beds of the effluent rivers. The route to the Cai'iboo fields is by coach on a good road, with excellent inns, the journey occupying three days from Ashcroft on the C.P.R., which can be shortened by a night's steamer journey -on the Eraser from Soda Creek to Quesnelle. Barkerville is one day further by road. In the far north of the province promising goldfields are being opened up on the Omineca River, one of the head streams of the Peace River, and only accessible by trails or rough pack roads ; in the Cassiar district, which is reached by steamer up the Stikine River to Telegraph Creek, and thence by trail ; and on the Atlin Lake, which is easily reached from Lake Bennett, the terminus of the White Pass railway from Skagway. These mines, however, have not proved very attractive to individual miners, and it is believed that they will only yield a fair return when hydraulic working has been introduced. The Lillooet mines, on the Cayush Creek, about 40 miles up the Fraser from Ashcroft, yield a return from quartz mining. The richest rock mines, and those that promise greatest permanence, on account of the immense quantity of low-grade ores present, are those of the West Kootenay, now approached by the Columbia River steamers from the C.P.R. line on the north, by the Crow Nest Pass line on the south, and by direct rail from the United States. This region contains mountains rising to 8000 feet above the sea, divided by deep valleys. The rocks are largely Archsean and igneous, great intrusions of granite occurring in parts. The gold ore is usually in the form of pyrrhotite — not unlike the nickeliferous pyrrhotite of Ontario — and chalcopyrite, occurring in a rock of dioritic character. This ore is a complex combination of sulphides of copper and silver with gold, and has to be subjected to elaborate metal- lurgical processes before the gold can be obtained. The copper forms a valuable bye-product. Hence there is no possibility of success from individual attempts at mining. The chief centre is the town of Rossland, situated at a con- siderable elevation on a bench, or old river terrace, on the steep slope of a mountain in which the mines are worked by horizontal galleries and shafts. The winter is very cold on account of the altitude, and, until the opening of the Crow Nest line, com- munication in winter, after the withdrawal of the Columbia steamers, was very difficult. In less than five years Rossland has THE DOMINION OF CANADA — ^WESTERN PROVINCES, 109 attracted a population of over 8000, and has been laid out in streets, where buildings of stone and brick are rapidly replacing the first wooden shanties. The ore is sent by rail to Trail or Nelson on the Columbia river to be smelted. The mining at Rossland appears to be on a more permanent basis than that in districts where placer workings are relied upon, and with the advance of prospecting a number of small mining towns will arise in the district, forming good markets which should encourage agriculture on the available lands in the neighbourhood. Silver, mainly in the form of silver-lead ores, is obtained in great quantities both in the West and East Kootenay districts from many mines. The average proportion of silver exceeds 200 ounces to the ton of lead. The importance of these ores has led to the construction of very difficult railways from the Arrow Lakes, Slocan Lake, and Kootenay Lake to Sandon. The Slocan district has proved the most productive. The industry is being carried on with great energy ; but new deposits are still being met with, and, as the geological survey of the pro- vince proceeds, the labours of the prospectors will be guided to other regions where great results will doubtless also be obtained. Coal, of excellent quality, is abundant in the Cretaceous rocks of Vancouver Island, where it is mined to the amount of nearly 1,000,000 tons per annum, in the neighbourhood of Nanaimo, for export to the mainland ports of British Columbia and of the United States. Farther north, at Comox, there are also workings, and the area of good coal is believed to be greater than at Nanaimo. In the Queen Charlotte Islands large quantities of coal exist, some of which, on Skidegate Inlet, is anthracitic in character. On the mainland coal has been reported at several points on the Eraser and Thompson Rivers, on the Skeena River, and in the almost unknown region in the north-east. The finest fields are, however, in the Crow Nest Pass, and this region is sure of prosperous development on account of the demands for working the machinery and the smelters of the Kootenay district. Extensive coking ovens have been established at Eernie to supply the fuel required for the smelters. Iron ores of good quality are abundant in many places throughout the province, but no metal has, as yet, been manufactured. Mica deposits of fine quality yielding unusually large sheets of the mineral occur in the upper Fraser Valley, close to the Yellowhead Pass, but can scarcely be worked on account of the 110 NEW LANDS. long journey of seventeen to twenty-five days by pack-horse required to reach Kamloops or Edmonton, the nearest railway points. Mining Laws. — Miners require to take out a mining licence, costing $5 per annum for individuals and |50 or $100 for companies, according to capital. All claims must be pegged Out, and particulars written on the "discovery peg," before registration is possible, Eind they must be registered within certain time limits from the date of discovery. In quartz mining a claim is 1500 feet square, and may be bought out- right for |500, or held as loig as $100 per annum is spent in working it, or, in default of working, paid as rent. Leases of not more than five miles of the bed of a river may be granted for twenty years for the purpose of gold dredging. Claims for placer mining measure 100 feet square, except in the case of creek claims, which are 100 feet long, and extend from base to base of the hills. A placer claim must be worked continuously, and is liable to be forfeited if untouched for 72 hours, " except for reasonable cause, satisfying the Gold Commission." A licence to prospect for coal on 640 acres of land costs $50 for one year, and if coal is found a lease may be obtained for five years at the rate of ten cents an acre, and a royalty of five cents per ton of coal raised. If contiguous claims up to ten are located by miners working in partnership, they may be permitted to concentrate the working upon one claim with- out forfeiting the others. No boys under twelve, no females of any age, and no Chinamen are allowed to be employed under- ground in any mines, and there are numerous regulations in force for the safety of the miners. The mining laws are ex- tremely, voluminous and minute, as many as twenty-four Acts dealing with mines and mining having been passed by the Provincial Parliament between 1888 and 1898.* * Statistical Tea/r Book for Canada, 1897, p. 158. Ill CHAPTER VI. NEWFOUNDLAND. Position and Government — The French Shore — People — Surface — Climate — Communications — Fisheries — Farming — Mining — Mining Laws. Position and Government. — Although the oldest British colony, Newfoundland still remains one of the least developed, so far as the land is concerned, because it has been used mainly as a landing place for fishing fleets and the headquarters of sealing vessels. The island lies at the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is the portion of America nearest to Europe, being only 1700 miles from the west coast of Ireland. The area ia about 42,000 square miles, and the population, at the census of 1891 (including the coast of Labrador), was 202,000. The government is that of a ministry responsible to the Colonial Parliament, a governor being appointed by the Colonial Office in London to represent the British Crown. The coast of Labrador is under the jurisdiction of Newfoundland. The French Shore. — By a curious interpretation of an old treaty, the west and north coasts of the island itself can scarcely be viewed as part of the colony. By the Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, the French were confirmed in the possession of the two little islands, St. Pierre and Miquelon, and were also guaranteed the right of landing and drying their nets and curing fish on the west and north coasts of Newfoundland, these being known now as the French Shore. In 1783 the Treaty of Versailles further provided that the French, in using the French Shore, should have " freedom from interruption by the competition of the British." Unfortunately, the exact nature and extent of these rights have never been defined, and many misunderstand- ings between British and French fishermen have resulted. The prosperity of the colony has been retarded, and the uncertainty as to the treaty rights and disabilities was one of the causes which has kept Newfoundland outside the Dominion of Canada. A modus vivendi with the French Government, arrived at in 1898, is expected to be extended over 1900 ; but a final under- standing is much to be desired. 112 NEW LANDS. People. — About one-third of the population is Roman Catholic in religion, nearly one-third belong to the Ohurch of England, and the remainder are chiefly Methodists. The coinage of the island is similar to that of Canada. The current rate of wages is lower than in any part of the Dominion, but the cost of living is also lower in the same proportion. For many years the condition of Newfoundland has been unsatisfactory from a financial point of view, and although vigorous efforts have recently been made to develop the country, it cannot as yet be termed prosperous. The people are almost all colonial born, immigration being very small; while there is a strong tendency to emigration, encouraged, perhaps, by the seafaring habits, but possibly due in part to the difficulties hitherto found in making a livelihood by work on land. Surface. — The island is rugged in character, the coasts are deeply cut up into a vast number of bays and peninsulas, and the rough uplands of the interior remain still but little known, and practically uninhabited. On the west coast the land rises abruptly from the sea to form a line of heights known as Long Range, attaining about 2000 feet in the highest part ; and from the summit the land undulates away across the island, forming an irregular plateau, gradually falling towards the east coast. Geologically, Newfoundland is part of the great Archaean mass of North America, mainly Laurentian, but Huronian in the south-east. At various points round the coast, and here and there in the interior, there are patches of old sedimentary rocks, mainly Silurian and Carboniferous. No formations more recent than the Carboniferous are found except the glacial clays, which cover a considerable part of the surface. The interior is diversified by many lakes of all sizes, usually called ponds, most of them — so far as is known — running from south-west to north-east, and draining to the east coast. The Humber is the only river of any size which crosses the Long Range and enters the sea on the west. The eastern rivers are much longer, especially the Exploits, which nearly bisects the island, and falls into the Bay of Exploits; and the G-ander system, which enters Gander Bay by one branch and Bonavista Bay by another. None of the rivers are navigable for craft larger than canoes. The banks of these rivers are wooded with well-grown pine and other coniferous trees, and with birch; and a certain amount of lumbering has been carried on for a long time, although never on a large scale. Forest fires have done much damage near the railway. The rest of the interior is very NEWFOUNDLAND. 113 rugged, treeless, and barren, being covered mainly with moss and shrubs ; and as yet the greater part is unsurveyed, and a great deal of it even unexplored. Climate. — The climate is less severe than that of most parts of Canada, the winters being warmer — temperatures below zero Fahrenheit rarely occurring — and the summers are like those of the north of England. The rainfall is ample, but does not appear to exceed 40 inches per annum, and in winter snow does not lie so thickly as in eastern Canada. But there is not the same amount of clear sky or dry atmosphere as on the mainland. In summer the east and south coasts are tormented with fogs, due to the cold Labrador current ; but the west and north coasts do not suffer so much, and the sea-fogs do not penetrate far into the interior. The occasional stranding of a large iceberg on the coast has a remarkable effect on local climates, and an iceberg is often held responsible, by its chilling of the air, for the failure of crops to ripen. The coast of Labrador is dreary in the extreme ; although lying in the same latitude as the British Islands, it has an Arctic climate, on account of the ice-laden currents which drift along it, and it is only visited by fishermen and sealers in the summer. Its mineral character is almost unknown, but it would not be surprising if iron and other ores were found to be abundant. Communications. — Direct steamers of the Allan line run fortnightly in summer from Liverpool to the port of St. John's, the capital, in the south-east ; and there is communication by steamer from Halifax, Nova Scotia, all the year round. Small steamers ply along the south coast all the year, and along the east and west coasts for nine months. A railway across the island was opened in 1897. It runs from St. John's through the peninsula of Avalon, north to the Gander and Exploits Rivers, curving westward to the Humber, and thence south along the west coast to Port aux Basques at the extreme south- west. A steamer runs thence to Cape Breton Island, and con- nects with the Intercolonial Railway. It is hoped that the line across Newfoundland will form a link in the shortest sea passage between Europe and America — a passage Which steamers of the most powerful type could reduce to a little over three days in favourable weather. Several of the European telegraph cables are landed at Heart's Content, in Trinity Bay, and land wires place all the settlements on the three coasts (south of 50°) in communication with the capital. Outside the peninsula of Avalon in the south-^east, where most of the population is concentrated, there are no roads. 8 114 NEW LANDS. Fisheries.— Nine-tenths of the inhabitants are engaged in fishing and in- industries connected with fish; indeed, scarcely any attention has hitherto been paid to anything else. Practi- cally the whole export trade (averaging a little over $6,000,000 per annum) is in fish, mainly dried and salted cod caught in summer on the Grand Banks and in the inshore waters. Salmon are also caught and cured in summer, and in winter herrings are fished and exported in a frozen state. The canning of lobsters has recently acquired great dimensions, and this trade is one of the chief causes of friction on the French Shore. Seal-hunting is also a piirsuit of some importance. While the native population always turn their eyes to the sea for occupation and support, newcomers may look inland, where much hard work and a rough life will probably in time result in a comfortable livelihood. The amount of timber fit for the lumber trade is not very great, but there is an immense supply of small wood suited for pulping, and the manufacture of wood pulp has already been commenced. Farming. — Agriculture has been much neglected, but is improving, although there is scarcely a farm in the colony out of sound of the sea. About 65,000 acres of land were culti- vated in 1891. There is a good deal of very fair farming land round the heads of the bays and in the valleys of the chief rivers, which are tapped by the railway, but road-making en a consider- able scale will be required before farming can really pay. As regards crops, wheat is not likely to yield good results, but oats, barley, buckwheat, rye, and root crops, especially potatoes, do well. There seems to be no future for farming on or near the south coast. The Humber Valley, opening to the west, contains perhaps the best land, but the Exploits and Gander Valleys on the east and several places along the south-west coast, all near the railway, are promising. As yet they are nearly all un- touched. Insects are said to do a good deal of damage to crops. There are great areas of first-rate grass for pastoral purposes, and the farmer should look to live stock rather than to tillage as his main support. There is summer pasturage even in the parts of the island known as the Great Barrens on which cattle and sheep thrive. The great difficulty, however, is the supply of food and shelter for stock during the winter months. This would involve a great increase of hay-harvesting and root-growing, and the introduction of artificial grasses. The chief advantage of Newfoundland for rearing live stock is the short voyage to Europe, as compared with Montreal or New York, If the trade NEWFOUNDLAND. 115 were properly organised there should be no difficulty in landing, cattle at Liverpool within a week of their leaving the pastures. Land for agricultural purposes may be obtained free, as in Canada, by settling upon it, building a house and improving the soil, no payment beyond a homestead registration fee of $1Q being required. Crown lands may be purchased in quantities up to 600 acres at not less than 30 cents per acre, and subject to the condition that 10 per cent, of the land shall be cleared and occu- pied within five years. Occupation licenses are also granted at a very moderate rate, with a right to ownership if the land ig improved, occupied, and cultivated for five or ten years, accord- ing to circumstances. It is doubtful if agricultural immigrants will be attracted to Newfoundland in large numbers ; for, although a living can probably be made, the conditions of life are no better — unless proximity to Europe be counted an advantage — than in the rich lands of the west of Canada. Mining. — Gold-bearing rocks have been found in the south- east at Cape Broyle, about 40 miles south of St. John's, and speci- mens are said to have yielded 3 ounces of gold to the ton. The gold, so far as is known, occurs in combination with other metals, and must be separated by elaborate processes after crushing. As nearly .one-third part of the island is made up of Huronian rocks, with which, in America, gold is usually associated, it is not improbable that the metal may be found in considerable quantity. The south-eastern corner of Newfoundland may roughly be said to be underlain by Huronian rocks, while the rest is mainly Laurentian ; the dividing line runs from the western side of Bonavista Bay across the island south-westwards to the western side of Fortune Bay. The mines which have been worked to the greatest extent are those of copper, the ore (copper pyrites) being exported, for the most part, unsmelted. Copper is mined at many places along the east coast, the supply is large, and the output could easily be greatly increased. The actual value of copper ore exported in 1897 was only £84,000, much less than the value of the tinned lobster exports. As yet there has been prac- tically no prospecting for copper or other ores in the interior of the island. Nickel is found, associated with copper, at Tilt Cove on N6tre Dame Bay, and was worked when the price of the metal was high. Iron ore also occurs in immense abundance, and some of it is Tery rich. Hematite and magnetite are worked already to 116 NEW LANDS. some extent. Bell Island, in Conception Bay on the east, is particularly rich in brown hematite, which occurs close to the surface, and can be quarried out and delivered by shoots into vessels lying in deep water. On one occasion 1800 tons of iron ore were loaded in this way directly into the holds of a steamer in 4f hours. Iron pyrites is extensively mined on Pilley's Island in Exploits Bay, and exported to the United States for the manufacture of sulphuric acid. Chrome iron ore occurs in the cliflfs of the west coast at Port- au-Port, and is being worked, although, on account of powerful monopolies in the chrome ore trade, it is sometimes difficult to secure a market. Lead and silver ores have been found and tested on the shores of Placentia Bay, and are probably widely distributed. They also appear at Port-au-Port on the west coast, where mining was begun in 1875, but was stopped on account of disputes as to the rights of the fishermen on the French Shore. There are considerable deposits of coal in the Carboniferous strata of the neighbourhood of St. George's Bay, on the west coast, and near Grand Lake, both localities being on the line of railway. This coal should be of great value as fuel for smelting the various ores ; and in many ways Newfoundland is peculiarly well fitted for metallurgical enterprises. There is no great extent of fertile land, nor forests of such value as to make the establishment of extensive metallurgical works objectionable to other industries ; and in the course of time the innumerable deep inlets of the coast might give rise to a steel shipbuilding industry from native supplies. This, however, must remain a dream of the remote future, unless large capital were devoted to the purpose ; at present capital can be applied elsewhere with better prospects of a quick return. Serpentine rocks are extensively represented, and asbestos of fair quality occurs in them. The serpentines are also looked upon as a guide to copper deposits, copper ore frequently occurring in the schists through which the serpentine dykes run. Other mineral products such as gypsum and building stone occur in abundance. There is one remarkable granite quarry in which the rock occurs naturally split up into blocks of various sizes, so rectangular and uniform, that shiploads have been dispatched ready for use as building material without any cutting or trimming.* •A. E. Outerbridge, "The Undeveloped Mineral Wealth of New- foundland," Journal of the Franldin Institute, Philadelphia, vol. oxliv. (1897), p. 168. NEWFOUNDLAND. 117 Petroleum has been found near St. Paul's Inlet, about the middle of the west coast, and is being worked. There is no doubt that Newfoundland abounds in mineral wealth. Were it not for the immense richness of its fisheries, this would have attracted attention long ago, because so much is exposed to view in the best positions for working and shipping in the cliffs of the deep-water inlets. The fishing people cared nothing for the minerals, and many stories are current of how their ignorant appreciation of accidental qualities drew the attention of prospectors to the supplies. Thus a pretty yellow stone set as an ornament on the chimney-piece of a fisherman's cottage led to the discovery of the copper mines of N6tre Dame Bay ; the heavy " stones" taken onboard as ballast, and thrown care- lessly ashore at St. John's, led to the discovery of the hematite on Bell Island;* while the brilliant carmine paint on the bottom of a fishing boat seen as she heeled over in a squall,. served to reveal a mine of silver ore, which an unkind landslip buried beyond rediscovery before it was utilised, t Now that a rail- way has been built across the island, there will undoubtedly be a great impulse given to prospecting in the interior, and within a few years there will be- some evidence from which to judge of the part mineral wealth may take in developing this oldest, but least known, of British colonies. Mining Laws. — A license to search for gold over an area of 320 acres costs $25 for one year, and twice as much for a second. A gold mining lease of an area of one quarter of a mile square (40 acres) is granted at the rate of $50 per annum for a period of 21 years, with an obligation to spend at least $500 per annum in working each area. A mining license for one square mile of land costs $20 for the first year, $30 for the second, and $50 for the third, with certain obligations as to working. A mining lease, conveying the right to the minerals under 1 square mile of land, and to the occupation of 50 acres of surface, is granted to the holder of a mining license for a period of five years on payment of $25. The holder must, however, expend at least $800 during each of the first four years, and $2800 during the fifth year in working the minerals, and as soon as he can prove the expenditure of $6000 he is entitled to a grant of the minerals in the square mile, and of the 50 acres of land. * Harvey, NewfouncUaivl in 1897 (London, 1897), pp. 89 and 94. t Outerbridge, Journal of the Franklin Institute, Philadelphia, vol. cxliv, (1897), p. 170. 118 CHAPTER VII. THE TJlflTED STATES. Growth and Progress — ^Position and Boundaries — Configuration — Climate — Communications — Resources — Agriculture — Stock Raising — Mining — Coalfields — Petroleum — Metals — Manufactures — People — Settle- ment of the Country — Government and Laws — Aliens and Naturalisa- tion — New Lands of the United States — Acquisition of Public Lands — Gulf States — Mississippi — Alabama — Florida — Texas — States of the Great Lakes — Michigan — Wisconsin — Minnesota — Central States — North Dakota — South Dakota — Nebraska — Kansas — Arkansas — Missouri — Oklahoma — Cordilleran and Plateau States — Wyoming — Idaho— Montana — Pacific States— California — Oregon — Washington — Alaska — Position and Area — Administration and Laws — Ports and Communicaitions — Climate — Possibility of Agriculture — Resources — Gold in Alaska — Cape Nome Goldfields — Coal in Alaska. Growth and Progress. — The history of the United States of America since the declaration of independence by the thirteen British colonies of the Atlantic coast, in 1776, is a record of the most remarkable and continuous progress ever known, in the development of a vast unoccupied region, and the creation of a great nation. With the exception of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island, no province of the Dominion of Canada is at present one-half so densely peopled as the average of the whole United States. In area and population the United States exceed any other civilised Power under a single government except Russia ; and no other country in the world, except possibly China, contains three separate towns each with a population exceeding one million, like New York, Philadelphia, and Chicago. In wealth and enterprise, and in the intelligence displayed in utilising their resources, the people of the United States have no superiors. Hence it is now more natural to class that country along with the fully occupied countries of Europe than with the undeveloped lands of the New World. There is still, however, vast and almost unlimited scope for development and increase in prosperity ; but this will come ^bout rather by the adoption of improved methods, the inven- tion and adaptation of which are characteristic of the American people, than by the opening up of new lands from the outside, THE. UNITED STATES. 119 and more and more by the redistribution and natural increase of the existing population than by the continuance of the vast im- migration which has taken place during the past half century. The story of the westward march of population is a very remark- able one. There were 305,000 square miles of settled land in 1800 confined to the Atlantic border, 980,000 in 1850, and 1,950,000 in 1890. As the rich lands of the centre of the con- tinent were taken up, and railways placed them in easy communication with eastern markets, the old, infertile farms of the east dropped. out of cultivation, and, with the increasing prosperity of the country, the population of some of the north- eastern states has actually declined. Yet, for many years to come, the States will continue to attract young and ambitious men from every quarter of the globe ; and although competition in every department is keen, and the whole machinery of life runs at high pressure, there is no country in the world where the prizes open to individual work and native merit are so numerous or so great. The freedom from many of the traditions and conventions which hamper progress in the Old World has allowed free scope to modern ideas of organisation, government, and social life in the New ; but modern abuses of power in the formation and working of monopolies on a gigantic scale in trade, labour, and politics threaten, in some cases, to neutralise these advantages to the community at large. Position and Boundaries. — The United States occupy the whole breadth of the North American continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; this huge slice being the very choicest portion, neither penetrating into the tropics on the south, nor approaching the sub-Arctic region on the north. The limits of latitude are 49° on the north, along the parallel which forms the Canadian boundary, and 25° at the extremity of the Peninsula of Florida on the south. There are land boundaries on the north with Canada (see p. 30), and on the south with Mexico, the latter being formed by the Rio Grande, from the Oulf of Mexico to about 32° N., and thence by an irregular line across the plateau to the Pacific Ocean, which is met nearly in 33° N. The frontiers have been surveyed, and columns erected along them at intervals. The area between these limits is estimated at 3,025,600 square miles. The outlying territory of Alaska, in the extreme north-west of America, the uncertain boundaries of which are referred to at p. 31, contains an additional area of about 570,000 square miles. In 1898 outlying island possessions were acquired, including Cuba and Porto Bico in the West Indies, and Hawaii, the Philippine Islands, 120 NEW LANDS, and Guam in the Pacific, while in 1899 Tutuila island in Samoa ■was added. The total area may be compared in size with the Dominion of Canada, or the continent of Australia, than either of which it is at least twelve times more populous, or with Europe, of which the States contain only one-sixth the population. Configuration. — The configuration of the main body of the country is very simple. The great lakes lie on the north, and, except for the Eed River of the North, which flows into the province of Manitoba, and the Columbia River, which rises in the province of British Columbia, the whole hydrographic system lies in the country itself. The great Missouri-Mississippi Valley forms the centre of the United States, stretching from near the great lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, and receiving large tributaries from east and west. The flat expanse of the centre of the Mississippi Valley is known as the Prairies, and forms the greatest stretch of rich treeless agricultural country in the world. On the east the prairies rise up to the broken country of the low Appalachian Ranges, which form an irregular water- shed separating the Mississippi basin from the low coastal plain which borders the Atlantic and sweeps westward round the Gulf of Mexico. To the west the prairies rise more gradually to form the Great Plains which, lying at altitudes up to 6000 feet, run along the whole length of the States to merge in the prairie steppes of Canada. These great plains, deeply seamed by the valleys of the long tributaries of the Mississippi, lead up to the abrupt and lofty range of the Rocky Mountains, whose peaks exceed 14,000 feet in height, and which form the watershed between the Atlantic and Pacific. Beyond the crest the Rocky Mountains sink to the level of a lofty plateau, which in one portion forms a large inland drainage area, known as the Great Basin, and containing Great Salt Lake; but otherwise diversified by many high mountain ranges, deep valleys, and profound canyons. The plateau is bordered on the west by the Sierra Nevada, and Coast Ranges, between which lie some remarkably sheltered valleys, and through which great rivers — especially the Colorado in the south and the Columbia in the north — make their way, gathering in their courses the waters of many tributaries. Climate. — The dividing lines between all the grand natural divisions run from north to south, and there is a striking absence of mountain ranges in an east and west direction. The result upon the climate is very marked. Extreme range of tem- perature and quick variability characterise it, on account of the THE UNITED STATES. 121 ease with which cold winds from the north in winter, and hot winds from the south in summer, can sweep its whole length. The tempering influence of the sea is excluded by the Coast Hange on the west and the Appalachians on the east, so that the interior is little affected by the ocean. The mean annual tem- perature varies greatly with the latitude, ranging from 40° F. in the north-west to 75° in the south of Florida. A mean tempera- ture, equal to that of the British Islands, prevails, as a rule, a,long a belt from 40° to 42° N. — i.e., more than twelve degrees farther south than in Europe, but the range between summer and winter is very different. In winter the cold over all the northern states is severe. In the west it is worse than in the North- West Territories of Canada, on account of the less pronounced action of the Chinook winds, and the occasional occurrence of blizzards or snow tempests, which no living creature can with- stand. The heat of summer is no less pronounced in all parts of the country, except in places where it is modified by altitude. The central prairies of the Mississippi are subject to the visitation of tornadoes or whirlwinds, which work extraordinary havoc, destroying trees and houses in their track. Yet, despite all these disadvantages, the climate as a whole is not only healthy, but the air is stimulating and exhilerating in a remark- able degree. The distribution of rainfall is naturally much influenced by the configuration. To the south-east of a line drawn from the Mexican frontier, at the Gulf of Mexico, to the outlet of Lake Ontario, the total annual precipitation exceeds 40 inches, and the same is true for most of the Pacific coast and the western faces of the Coast Range and the Sierra Nevada. But almost the whole of the great strip of land between 100° and 120° W. has a rainfall under 20 inches, and a very large part of it, on the great plains and the plateau, has under 10 inches, which is far too little to permit successful agriculture, or even in some cases to allow of the growth of pasture grass. In these arid and sub-arid regions, the value of farming land is expressed, not by the amount of land held, but by the amount of water avail- able for irrigation. The attention paid to meteorology is such that no country in the world is better supplied with predictions of coming weather changes than the United States. The Weather Bureau distri- butes its warnings to all parts of the country by telegraph, and special signals are displayed by railway trains in some of the thinly peopled districts. This systematic dissemination of weather forecasts is rendered possible by the vastness of the 122 NEW LANDS. area from, which the necessary data is derived, and is of great practical utility to all concerned. Communications. — The eastern ports of the United States, of which New York is by far the most important, are reached by the fastest steamers from Liverpool and Southampton, a voyage of a little over 3000 miles, in six days. It is upon this route that the highest developments of fast and luxurious ocean travel have taken place. On the western side, the magnificent harbour of San Francisco (3000 miles, or six days' continuous travel by rail from New York) communicates by means of regular lines of steamers with Japan, China, Hawaii, the Philippine Islands, and Australia. Traffic on the rivers and canals is now mainly confined to the carriage of goods, the enormous mileage of railways having reduced the river passenger traffic, once the largest and most luxurious in the world, to very moderate dimensions. In 1850 there were only 9000 miles of railway in the United States ; in 1880 they had increased to 93,000 miles, while in 1897 they had reached the immense total mileage of 184,600 miles. This gives one mile of railway for every 23 square miles, or for every 390 inhabitants, which may be compared with 1 mile for every 5^ square miles, or for every 1870 inhabitants — the proportions which exist in the United Kingdom. A great deal of the rapid development of the United States is due to the enterprise with which railway lines have been pushed out into uninhabited regions in advance of settlement, and to the competition produced by the duplication of lines betweea all the more important centres. There are, for instance, five separate routes by which, within the borders of the United States, the continent can be crossed from ocean to ocean. Resources. — With their vast and varied natural resources, the United States approach more nearly than any other country to the ideal of being absolutely self-sufficing. No necessaries need to be imported, except possibly tea and coffee, while every- thing else could be, and is to a great extent, produced within their boundaries. Yet, pending more economical methods of working, tropical produce, raw materials, and particularly manu- factured goods, are still imported in large quantities, the latter in spite of heavy protective duties. The chief support of the States is farming, including under this term the cultivation of food products, and of raw materials for manufacture, and the raising of live stock. Every year, how- ever, manufactures are becoming more important, and before iong factories and not farms will provide the larger share of THE UNITED STATES. 123 national wealth, if, indeed, the time is not already come. While the United States have not the same necessity for maintaining a great export trade as weighs upon a country of more limited resources, the exports supply certain indica- tions as to the produce of the country. The following is, in round numbers, a statement of the value of the chief exports for the year 1897-98 :— Products Dollars. Pounds Sterling. Per Cent, ol Total. Agriculture, Mines, .... Forests, .... Fisheries, .... Manufactures, . Total, 854,000,000 20,000,000 38,000,000 5,500,000 290,500,000 171,000,000 4,000,000 7,600,000 1,100,000 58,100,000 70-70 1-66 3-15 0-46 24-03 1,208,000,000 241,800,000 100-00 Agriculture. — Nearly the whole of the area of the United States east, and some very rich valleys and coast strips -west, of the Rocky Mountains, are available for cultivation, or in the drier region for cattle ranching or irrigation farms. The nature of the staple crops necessarily differs according to the climate. The coastal plain of the South Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico is mainly devoted to cotton-growing, an industry of immense importance, and largely dependent on negro labour. Tobacco, although cultivated in almost every state, is most important as a crop in the states lying just north of the ootton-grdwing region, and especially in Kentucky and Virginia. The area of prairie land between the Ohio River, the great lakes, and the Great Plains of the west, is the richest grain- growing region in the world, its staple crops being maize {universally called "corn" in the United States), wheat, and oats. To this region must be added the rich California Valley. The states which produce the greatest quantity of Indian corn are those of the centre — Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, and Nebraska. Those in which wheat is most largely cultivated lie farther to the north and west. The greatest wheat-growing states in 1897 were Minnesota, California, Kansas, North Dakota, South Dakota, Indiana, and Ohio. In Minnesota and the Dakotas, which occupy part of the isame rich land as Manitoba, which lies just to the north of them, •wheat cultivation absorbs practically the whole energy of the population, and wheat is grown to the exclusion of other crops. 124 NEW LANDS. Hence, as the population is small, these states have a large surplus available for the supply of the eastern industrial states, which do not raise nearly enough for their own food supply, and beyond this also for export. As long as the wheat crop in the western states continues to provide more than sufficient to supply the east, the United States will continue to be a wheat-exporting country ; but this cannot go on always. The virgin soil available for ploughing diminishes in extent every year, and every year the increasing exhaustion of the soil under cultivation demands the aid of fertilising agents, so that the boundary line of land, upon which manure has become neces- sary, is constantly creeping farther and farther west. Agri- culturally speaking, land in need of fertilisers is already old land, and the cost of cultivating it steadily increases. The time when the whole wheat crop of the United States will be needed for the food of its own people, although in sight, is probably far off. The handling of the crop in the north-western states illustrates the latest developments of industrial economy, which the possession of cheap land, combined with dear labour, can stimulate an inventive people to employ. Oats are grown everywhere in the north, but the states devoting the largest acreage to this crop are Iowa and Illinois, where it has sometimes been found more profitable than wheat. Although mainly used as food for horses, the use of oats as human food is rapidly increasing in America,* a fact curiously in contrast with the state of things in the United Kingdom, where — especially in Scotland — oat-eating communities have been largely converted to the use of wheat, a change not wholly advantageous. Although these products are specially mentioned on account of their immense preponderance, there is no farm product of the temperate or sub-tropical zones which does not go to swell the vast agricultural wealth of the United States. Taking the country as a whole, the areas devoted to the leading crops, and the yield, are given in the following table (p. 125). In 1890 the number of separately occupied farms in the United States was 4,500,000, but although the number of &rms had increased steadily, the proportion of the population engaged in farming had notably diminished. In 1870 fully 47 per cent, of the wage earners were engaged in agriculture ; in 1890 not quite 37 per cent, were so employed. The decrease is accounted for by the more rapid development of manufacturing industries. * H. Gannett, in Stanford's Compendium of Geography amd Travel — North America; vol. ii., The United States, 1898, p. 368. THE UNITED STATES. 125 In 1890 the total area of the farms was 632,000,000 acres, of ■vfhich 357,000,000 acres were improved land. AGBIOULT0BE OF THE UNITED STATES, 1897. Crop. Acres. Bushels per Acre. Total Value of Crop. Indian Com, . Wheat, . Oats, . Hay, . . . Cotton, . 80,000,000 39,500,000 25,700,000 42,400,000 23,300,000 23 '8 13-4 27-2 $501,000,000 428,000,000 148,000,000 401,000,000 319,000,000 £100,200,000 85,600,000 29,600,000 80,200,000 63,800,000 Stock Raising. — The keeping of live stock is not only an incident in mixed farming, but in the states of the Prairie and the Great Plains forms a highly specialised industry by itself. Cattle ranching is pursued chiefly on the sub-arid area of the Great Plains — that vast stretch of country west of the fertile land, and reaching from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico. The cattle on these ranches are bred mainly for their value as beef, and, in passing eastward to the market, they are often fattened in the Prairie States before being slaughtered at the great meat- packing centres. No less than 1,365,000 square miles — mainly on the Great Plains — are utilised for cattle ranches exclusively.* Sheep are kept on the western plains also, mainly for food supply, but their number is relatively smaller. Sheep, for the production of wool, are pastured largely in the eastern states, just as milch cattle are kept mainly in the neighbourhood of the great centres of population. The Prairie States, especially those in which the Indian corn yield is greatest, excel in rearing swine, or hogs, as they are always called in America ; indeed, a great part of the maize crop is used for fattening swine for the great centres of pork packing in Omaha, Chicago, Cincinnati, and elsewhere. The tendency throughout the whole country is to conduct farming operations on a very large scale, with a high degree of organisation, so that the small farmer, although able to make a comfortable livelihood in favourable districts, will never be able to compete successfully with the great trading organisations backed by large capital. * Statesman's Year Booh — United States, 1,899. 126 NEW LANDS. 'Estimate of Animals ik United States (Round Numbers) 1897/ Number. Value. Horses and Mules, . Milch cows. Other cattle, . Sheep, .... Swine, .... 16,500,000 16,000,000 30,500,000 37,000,000 40,600,000 $545,000,000 369,000,000 508,000,000 67,000,000 166,000,000 £109,000,000 73,800,000 101,600,000 13,4004000 33,200,000 Mining. — Tlie mineral wealth of the United States is, perhaps, the greatest and most varied of any country in the "world ; it is already to a large extent exploited. Indeed, so rapid are the methods of extraction of valuable ores, and so keen is the competition in the production of the precious metals, that large areas of the country have been overrun, worked out, and abandoned as valueless, in situations which a more deliberate method of working might have rendered prosperous for many years. If, for example, there is gold in a district which the labour of 1000 'men could extract in 50 years, it is most probable that before the end was reached some other mode of making a livelihood would have been devised, and the small community, gradually accustomed to the locality, would have been rendered permanent. But if 50,000 miners rush into the district and exhaust the mines in a single year, the land is doomed to be a perpetual wilderness, unless it should happen to have an excep- tionally fertile soil, a rare thing in a mining region. The distribution of minerals in the IJnited States is of peculiar interest. The most easily worked fields containing the best coal are in the Appalachian Mountain district on the east, where petroleum, natural gas, and iron ore also abound. Hence the dense population which naturally clusters on the Atlantic seaboard is supplied with all the materials for developing exten- sive manufactures and inaugurating an export trade. On the other hand, in the uninhabited, and, for a long time, inaccessible mountains of the west, immense deposits of the precious metals were discovered. These rapidly attracted a population, and thus formed a second centre of wealth, trade, and industry. In some places, like California, the genial soil and climate have perpetuated, in agriculture, prosperity begun in precious metals ; in others, like Nevada, the mines when exhausted left the land s, iiKe iM evaaa, tne mines wnen exnaustea leit tne land * U.S. TectrbooJc of the Department of Agriculture, 1898. The year 1897 for comparison with the statistic^ of crops, which in 1898 were ! averatre- is chosen for comparison below the average. THE ITNITED STATES. 127 desert. Between the eastern and the western centres of popu- lation railways had to be constructed in spite of immense natural difficulties, and these led settlers into the great agricul- tural lands which lay between. In many places mineral wealth in coal and iron has since been discovered, underlying the prairie lands, the utilisation of which is helping forward the transition from an agricultural to a manufacturing community. In the production of iron the United States now lead the world, having surpassed the United Kingdom a few years ago, while the production of coal also promises before many years to occupy the first place. Chief Metallic Products op United States in 1897. Amount. Value.* Pig iron, . Silver, Gold, . SX' : Zinc, . long tons, . oza., . ozs., . lbs., short tons, short tons. 9,650,000 53,860,000 2,774,000 491,638,000 208,000 100,000 $95,100,000 69,640,000 57,363,000 54,000,000 14,900,000 8,500,000 £19,050,000 13,926,000 11,472,500 10,800,000 2,980,000 1,700,000 Chief Non-Metallic Products of United States in 1897. Amount. Value, t Bituminous coal, Pennsylvania 1 anthracite, / Petroleum, . Building stone, Natural gas, . short tons, long tons, . barrels. 147,800,000 46,800,000 60,570,000 $119,740,000 79,130,000 40,900,000 36,000,000 13,800,000 £23,948,000 15,826,000 8,180,000 7,200,000 2,760,000 The total value of metallic and non-metallic minerals together in 1897 was $632,000,000 or £126,400,000. In the foregoing table the quantities are expressed in the units employed in America, which are even more inconsistent * These values are calculated according to the price at Pennsylvania for iron, at New York for copper, lead, and zinc ; and the coining value for ^old and silver. In the case of silver the commercial value in 1897 was only $32,300,000. + These values are calculated on the spot, after the product is raised to the surface and prepared for sale, but before being put on the market. ■128 NEW LANDS. i and confused than the ordinary British system of weights, if that be possible. The long ton is the British ton of 20 cwts. = 2240 lbs. J the short ton contains 2000 lbs. The values are derived from the Report on the Mineral Resources of the United States published annually by the U.S. Geological Survey. Coalfields. — Mines of gold and silver afford at best only temporary stimuli to the development of a country, while mines of coal and iron usually lead to permanent prosperity. Practically all the anthracite is derived from a few hundred square miles of country in the north-east of Pennsylvania, and that state also contributes more than one-third of all the bituminous coal produced. Ohio, West Virginia, and Alabama are the only other states situated on the Appalachian coalfield which produce over 5,000,000 tons of coal per annum, although smaller amounts are obtained in Maryland, Kentucky, Tennessee, and other eastern states. The next coalfield in importance lies ■east of the Mississippi and north of the Ohio, and the mines within it make Illinois rank next to Pennsylvania as a coal- producing state. Another great coalfield lies west of the Mississippi, and is worked extensively in Iowa and Kansas, and, to a lesser extent, in other States. All these coalfields are in Tooks of the Carboniferous age, and are separated by a broad belt of country- — on the Great Plains — from the coal and lignite found in the Cretaceous and Tertiary strata of the eastern part of the Great Plains, the Rocky Mountains, and the Pacific coast. These coals, usually of inferior quality, occur in a number of small separate basins, and are most largely mined in Colorado. The iron manufacturing district is in the east ; Pennsylvania smelts half the pig iron of the United States, while Ohio and Alabama account for most of the rest. The ores in the immediate localities are much less used than those brought from the southern shores of Lake Superior, where the states of Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota share what is perhaps the largest deposit of hematite in the world. Other large supplies of fine ore are known, especially in Missouri, but not worked, because of the greater economy arising from the use of the mines farther east. Petroleum. — Petroleum is obtained chiefly from the great oilfield of north-western Pennsylvania, and the neighbouring parts of New York and Ohio. Natural gas occurs in the same regions, and many factories in Pennsylvania, Indiana, and Ohio use natural gas as a motive power, although the supply is not likely to prove permanent, and some works have been obliged to return to coal. THE UNITED STATES. 129 Metals. — Colorado, Montana, and Utah produce most of the silver and lead ; California and Colorado yield most of the gold, although other western states and territories also supply a con- siderable proportion. Copper is obtained most largely from the south-west of Montana, the Keweenaw peninsula, on the south shore of Lake Superior in Michigan, where the ore is native copper scattered through conglomerate, and from the territory of Arizona. Manufactures. — As in other countries, the manufacturing centres of the United States lie on the coalfields, or in the neigh- bourhood of other great natural sources of power, such as Niagara Falls. If we include in manufacturing industries the felling and sawing of timber, and the slaughtering and packing of animals for food, the manufacturing industries of the United States greatly exceed in value those of any other country in the world. The fact that all but a small fraction of the manufactured goods are consumed in the country has helped to produce the impression, common in Europe, that American manufactures are trifling in amount compared with the production of raw materials. The total value of the product of all manufacturing industries in 1890 was $9,372,000,000, or £1,874,000,000, and 4,700,000 hands were employed. The largest establishments are concentrated in the north-eastern states and in the neighbour- hood of Chicago, so that in 1890 more than one-half of the establishments and of the capital were found in the states of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Massachusetts, and Illinois. Here the organisation of labour and capital is more complete, and the struggle between them keener, than in any other part of the world ; competition increasing between the great firms engaged in the same industry until they are driven to coalesce, forming gigantic trusts or monopolies against which no new firm can by any possibility contend. The immense power wielded by these trusts enables them to control the legislature to such an extent as to secure themselves against competition from foreign sources. Prom this point of view the eastern states are less " new lands," in the way of furnishing openings to the energies of outsiders, than the oldest or most despotic countries in Europe. Only one-third of the annual crop of raw cotton is as yet manufactured in the United States ; but this is in large measure due to the well-established fact that a humid atmos- phere is essential to rapid manufacture, and the air of the United States manufacturing districts is everywhere too dry. Another industry that has been very slow in developing is steel 9 130 NEW hANVS. shipbuilding. As a consequence, only 25 per cent, of the foreign trade of the country is carried under the American flag. The coasting trade and the navigation of the rivers are, how- ever, reserved for vessels built and registered in the United States, no foreign ship being allowed to carry cargo from any United States seaport except to a foreign country. People. — The original nucleus of the people was of English origin, with a very small Irish and Dutch admixture, but from the Declaration of Independence, in 1776, onwards, the new elements introduced have become more and more diverse, , although they have rapidly fused into a new and wonderfully homogeneous American type, using the English language, and following fundamentally English laws. The attempt to class the United Kingdom and the United States together as "Anglo- Saxon " has recently acquired a certain amount of popularity; laut the term is unsatisfactory. The British peoples themselves axe only in part descended from the early German tribes, and the proportion of Anglo-Saxon blood of English origin in an average American must be small indeed. " English speaking " is the only accurate term of comprehension. Whatever the nationality of the immigrants, a member of the third generation is, as a, rule, truly Anierican, and free from the traditions of his. grandfathers. Population of UnrrBD States in 1890. Foreign bom, 9,250,000 Native bom whites of foreign parents, . . 11,014,000 Native bom whites of native parents, . . . 34,720,000 Native bom coloured, 7,638,000 Classifying the foreign born according to nationality, the distribution at the census of 1890 was as follows : — CotmTBIES OF ObIGIN of rOEBIGN BOEN WHITES. Germany, 2,785,000 Ireland, 1,871,000 Great Britain, 1,251,000 Canada,* 981,000 Scanoo zoo Ra.ilwa.ys ' Cold Fields Busss so. UTaERjsr o c k a jy Kg. 7. — The Western Australian Groldfields. 236 NEW LANDS. the De Grey River, about 80 miles by coach from Condon in latitude 20° S. Condon is reached by local steamer from Cossack, which is in steamer connection with Fremantle. New deposits of alluvial gold are frequently discovered, and there are good quartz reefs. The total production in 1898 was 13,641 ozs. of gold. Water is found at depths of from 40 to 120 feet. Prices of all necessaries are very high, and miners' wages run up to £5 per week. The Ashhurton Goldfidd, reached by a journey of 200 or 300 miles from the port of Onslow at the mouth of the Ashburton River, was opened in 1890 for alluvial workings, but is now unimportant. The Gascoyne Field lies just to the south of the Ashburton, and was declared open in 1897, the chief workings being at Bangemall, 260 miles north-east of the port of Carnarvon. It is promising, on account of its valuable reefs. The Peah Hill Field, adjoining the two goldfields just men- tioned, was also opened in 1897, and is reached, via Nannine, from the railway terminus. Cue, on the Murchison Field, about 150 miles to the south. It has been very productive in alluvial gold, forming what is called in miner's language " a poor man's field." The total yield in 1898 was 13,736 ozs. The remaining goldfields lie well south of the tropic, although they are all intensely hot in summer, but with a dry heat which, outside the insanitary towns, is very healthy. The towns have sprung up very quickly without any attention being paid to the disposal of sewage, a more than usually serious problem in a waterless land. Blurchlson Goldfields. — The great Murchison Field has been worked since 1891, and is now in railway communication with Perth by the line running east from Geraldton to Mount Magnet, and thence north to Cue. The chief centres of gold production are Mount Magnet, Day Dawn, the Island, Nannine, and Cue. Both alluvial and reef gold are worked, and the supply from the reefs promises to become permanent. Timber for use in the mines is scarce, but water is generally abundant, and there is a good deal of pastoral land on the goldfield carrying sheep. The total output for 1898 amounted to 133,231 ozs., the yield being second only to that of Coolgardie. The Yalgoo Field is crossed by the Geraldton to Cue Railway. It was proclaimed in 1895, and is a pastoral as well as an auri- ferous country. Copper ore has also been discovered. The East Murchison Field lies between the Murchison and the Mount Margaret goldfields, and its chief centre, Lawler, in the WESTERN AUSTRALIA. 237" south is reached from the railway terminus at Menzies, 130' miles to the south. Yilgarn and Coolgardie Goldfields. — The Yilgarn Field is nearest the administrative centre of the colony, the station of Southern Cross on the Coolgardie Eailway, which forms its chief town, is only 237 miles east of Perth. It is a typical mining town of the desert, the water supply being obtained by distilla- tion from the brine wells. In some parts of the goldfields around this centre there is a fair supply of natural water, and the field as a whole is promising mainly for quartz-mining. The total output in 1898 was 11,696 ozs. The richest of the goldfields is that of Coolgardie, which produces fully three-quarters of the West Australian gold, and enjoys the same position in Australia as Klondike does in Canada or Johannesburg in South Africa. Gold was discovered in 1891, and the goldfield proclaimed in 1894. The town of Coolgardie contained 13,000 inhabitants in 1898. It lies in the centre of the richest quartz mines, and in 1898 deep alluvial gold was discovered within the boundaries of the town itself Not only gold, but almost all other minerals (including lignite) occur, though they are not yet worked. The town is 310 miles by rail from Premantle and 528 miles from Albany, but the single line of railway has often proved insufficient to carry in the necessary supplies and machinery, and the construction of another line to the harbour of Esperance on the south coast, a distance of only 200 miles in a straight line, is in contemplation. Thfe sanitary condition of this and the other towns of the desert require improvement, and all prices are very high. Water is sold on the desert goldfields like any other commodity, and its supply is- a serious problem. Coolgardie town is served partly by means of condensed water obtained from brine wells, the deepest Artesian borings (3000 feet) having failed to strike fresh water, and partly from tanks in which the scanty rainfall is preserved. The latter in 1897 was only 5|- inches. A great water scheme has been projected, with the object of bringing a supply in pipes from the hills near Fremantle. Rapid as the progress of the mines has been, the arrival of miners has been more rapid still, and the supply of labour often exceeds the demand. Kalgoorlie (25 miles from Coolgardie by rail), in the East Coolgardie Field, is rapidly approaching Coolgardie in size, and is in the midst of even richer mines. It is probably the richest goldfield in Australia. Kanowna, or White Feathers, 12 miles north-east of Kalgoorlie by coach, is the centre of the North-east Coolgardie Field, and has the advantage of timber in the surrounding 238 NEW LANDS. country and possesses characteristic desert lakes. It is in the neighbourhood of extensive deposits of alluvial gold. Menzies, 80 miles by rail from Kalgoorlie, is the chief town of the North €oolgardie Field, and has the advantage of drawing its water supply from wells. There will probably be many more towns of importance established upon these tields, where, undoubtedly, much gold has yet to be discovered. Altogether, the Coolgardie goldiields produced in 1898 no less than 773,473 ozs. Mount Margaret and Dundas Goldfields. — The Mount Margaret Field lies north of the North Coolgardie, and east of the East Murchison Fields. It was proclaimed in 1897, and contains good reef gold worked at the centres, Mount Margaret a,nd Mount Malcolm. Mount Malcolm is 64 miles north of Menzies, and Mount Margaret is a few miles further east on the shore of the salt Lake Carey. The total yield from this field in 1898 was 43,264 ozs. The Dundas Field lies south of Coolgardie, and its chief centre, Norseman, is reached either from that town (111 miles) or by coach from Esperance (126 miles). There is abundant reef, though little alluvial, gold, and if water could be secured for irrigation the country might become important agriculturally. The production of gold in 1898 was 32,032 ozs. Prospecting in the desert regions is very trying, and even dangerous, work. Camels have to be employed for transport, unless the routes across the desert are chosen so as to follow the ■ water-holes known only to the scattered tribes of aborigines. The extreme heat of the day is often followed by sharp cold at night, and the rock is in many places concealed under a great depth of drifting sand. 239 CHAPTER XVIII. JS"EW ZEALAND. Position — Configuration and Geology — Climate — Population and Immigra- tion — Legislation —Land laws — Mining laws — Resources of New Zealand — Pastoral Products — Agricultiu-e — Minerals — Forests and Fisheries — Manufactures — Towns and Communications — Possibilities of New Zealand. Position. — New Zealand consists of two large and several small islands lyinj; in the Pacific Ocean about 1300 miles south-east of the east coast of Australia. The group lies within the parallels of 34° S. and 47° S., projecting further into the temperate zone in the southern hemisphere than any other land except the extremity of South America. It is included between the meridians of 166° E. and 179° B., the island being almost exactly on the opposite side of the Earth to Great Britain, and the time consequently differing by nearly twelve hours. Thus noon in England corresponds nearly to midnight in New Zealand. From the positions of the islands in the southern hemisphere it is summer in Europe when it is winter in New Zealand. Conflguration and Geology. — -The group consists of two large islands named North Island and South (or Middle) Island, while the much smaller Stewart (formerly called South) Island lies at the extreme south. North Island, with an area of nearly 44,500 square miles, has a straight and nearly unindented coast on the west towards Australia, the few openings which occur being ill- suited for harbours. The east coast is richly indented, especially in Hauraki Gulf in the north, where the excellent harbour of Auckland is situated. The main feature of North Island is its volcanic character, there being several great volcanic mountains, the highest, Ruapehu reaching 9100 feet in height ; and amongst the low ranges of the interior of the island there are remarkable hot lakes and thermal springs. Earthquakes frequently occur, but are rarely severe. The Carboniferous formation containing coal measures occurs in several parts of the island, and in the more ancient rocks quartz veins yielding gold are found. The South Island has an area of 58,500 square miles, and is 240 NEW LANDS. separated from North Island by -Cook Strait, 13 miles wide. The lofty range of the Southern Alps runs along the west coast ; the higher summits are permanently snow-capped, and form glaciers. Koads can only be carried across the range at a few points, so that the rugged west coast remains much isolated trom the extensive undulating plains which stretch from the .eastern base of the mountains to the Pacific coast. Grand ^ords wind deeply into the land in the south-west of the island, but these are valueless as harbours because the deep inlets are backed by impassable mountains. The harbours in the north of the west coast are poor, and on the east coast the only good natural harbours are those of Lyttleton and Port Chalmers. The south-west of the island contains magnificent mountain scenery and fine lakes ; but the whole eastern half of South Island may be looked upon as one great pastoral plain, many parts of which are being broken up for agriculture. The plain is well watered by rivers flowing across it from the mountains to the sea ; and New Zealand differs in this respect, as in so many other particulars, from the Australian colonies. The geology of South Island displays a great development of the ancient sedimentary rocks in the west, including very important outcrops of the coal-measures and auriferous quartz. Other mineral resources are also abundant. Climate. — North Island has a considerably warmer climate than any part of England. The average temperature in January (the hottest month) is from 65° to 68°, and in July (the coldest month) from 48° to 55°. Temperatures over 80° are not common in summer, and frost at sea-level is very rare in winter. South Island approximates in climate to England. The January tem- perature averages from 58° to 65°, and that in July from 40° to 48°. Extremely high temperatures are rare, and frost and snow are sometimes experienced even at sea-level ; a minimum tem- perature of 23° has been observed at Lincoln in the Canterbury district. New Zealand is a country of high winds, especially South Island, which lies entirely in the belt of prevailing westerly winds. The rainfall along the west coast is consequently very heavy, exceeding 75 inches per annum along the whole western slope of South Island (where, at Hokitika, it averages 118 inches), and exceeding 50 inches for the west of North Island. The shelter afforded by the Southern Alps provides the eastern slopes of South Island with a rainfall which, while everywhere sufficient, in a normal year does not exceed 30 inches. In North Island the lower and less regularly scattered highlands permit NEW ZEALAND. 241 of a more uniform distribution of rainfall, few parts of the island having less than 40 inches of rain annually. The climate is pleasant and exhilarating at all seasons, and the death-rate of New Zealand is probably the lowest in the world, rarely exceeding 10 per thousand of the population for the whole country. Popiilation and Immigration. — The population of New Zealand at the census of 1896 was 743,214. With the exception of about 40,000 aboriginal maoris (most of whom live in North Island) and 3700 Chinese, the population is almost exclusively of British origin. The further immigration of Chinese is subject to government restrictions, and the usual restrictions are also in force against the introduction of undesirable Europeans. The population is well scattered over the country, not con- centrated in large towns as in Australia. The existence of four towns of approximately equal size — Auckland, Wellington, Ohristchurch, and Dunedin^each with from 40,000 to 60,000 inhabitants, provides a number of centres of activity no one of which greatly preponderates over the others, and Wellington, the political capital, is the smallest of the four. The excess of arrivals over departures averaged 3600 per annum for the seven years 1892-98, and the population is increasing by the natural excess of births over deaths at the rate of 11,800 per annum. The government no longer offers direct encouragement to immigration, but there is room and there are resources in the country for the support of a very mucli larger population. The maoris, living mainly in North Island, are diminishing in numbers, and a colonial estimate gives the year 1930 as that by which the race will be practically extinct. They take readily to work of various kinds, and have ceased to be a cause of serious trouble to white colonists. They are of a race superior in physique and in culture to the Australians, and are capable of education. There are maori members in both Houses of the colonial parliament. Iiegislation. — New Zealand is a self-governing colony, in which democratic principles probably have fuller expression than in any other country in the world. There is universal suffrage for all persons over the age of twenty-one; women have the same right to vote as men, but may not be elected as members of either House. The maori members are elected by maoris alone, with a special franchise. Members of both Houses are paid. There is stringent legislation as to the employment of women and children, the regulation of factories and mines, 16 242 NEW LANDS. holidays, and the hours of closing of offices and shops. The liquor traffic is subject to local option. Workmen have privi- leges as to security for wages and compensation for injuries, and there are special enactments for conciliation and arbitration in the case of labour disputes. Old age pensions have been introduced, by which every person over sixty-five years of age who has resided for twenty-five years in New Zealand, and has not been a serious criminal, is entitled to receive £18 a year from the public funds ; but if his income otherwise exceeds £34 a year, the pension is reduced so as to make up the total income to £52. Thus no one possessing a private income of £1 a week receive.s any pension. Dogs can only be imported subject to six months' quarantine at the importer's expense, and there are restrictions on the importation of all live-stock. There is a protective tariff which is high on certain products, running up to 40 per cent, of the value. Land Laws. — The land laws of New Zealand are designed to encourage the principle of State ownership, with security of tenure to the occupant. There are three modes of tenure for Crown lands, one of which must be chosen by the selector. These are — (1) Cash payment and the acquisition of the land in freehold ; (2) occupation under lease for twenty-five years with a right to purchase ; and (3) a lease in perpetuity. The Crown lands are divided into three classes — Urban, Suburban, and Kural — each of which is sold by auction, although rural lands may also be obtained by application after the land has been declared open for selection, the holder, if there should be more than one applicant, being chosen by ballot. The area which may be acquired by any individual is limited in each case ; no rural section can exceed 640 acres of first-class or 2000 acres of second-class land. Larger areas of pastoral land can, however, be secured on lease. There are ten land districts, corresponding to the provinces, and principal land offices are situated in the following towns : — Auckland for Auckland, New Plymouth for Taranaki, Napier for Hawkes Bay, Wellington for Wellington, Nelson for Nelson, Blenheim for Marlborough, Christchurch for Canterbury, Dunedin for Otago, Invercargill for Southland, and Hokitika for Westland. All negotiations for the acquisition of Crown lands have to be conducted through the land office of the division in which it is situated. The price of Crown land varies greatly according to situation and quality. The rent of land held with option of purchase is 5 per cent., and that of land held on a perpetual lease is 4 per cent., of the cash price. In both cases residence and improvements are required. NEW ZEALAND. 243 Special arrangements are made for the establishment of village settlements, in which homesteads are granted at a very low rent. Small grazing-runs are let at a rental of 2| per cent, of the capital value of the land, which must not be less than 5s. per acre, and the area of such a run must not exceed 5000 acres of first-class or 20,000 of second-class land. Any selector may hold only one such run, and cannot hold it together with a pastoral run. Pastoral runs are let by auction on lease for not more than twenty-one years, subject to resumption by the Grown at a year's notice. The holders are obliged to exterminate rabbits and prevent the spread of such shrubs as gorse, broom, and sweet-briar. No right is acquired by a pastoral lease to the soil, timber, or minerals. The maximum area of any run varies in different districts, the general rule being that it should not be greater than is sufficient to carry 20,000 sheep or 4000 cattle. Mining Laws. — Miners' rights for prospecting and working minerals on Crown lands cost 10s. per annum, with 10s. addi- tional if the operations are carried out on native land. The maximum area of land held on a lease for minerals other than coal is 320 acres, the rental charged being 2s. 6d. per acre and a royalty of from 1 to 4 per cent, of the value of the output at the spot. The maximum length of lease is forty-two years. The area of land leased for coal-mining may be as much as 2000 acres, and the lease may be for as many as sixty-six years at a rental of from Is. to 5s. per acre and a royalty of from 3d. to Is. per ton. Resources of New Zealand. — The total exports of the colony average about £10,000,000 per annum, of which animal products account for seven-tenths. The largest item is wool, worth over £4,000,000 ; the next, frozen meat (chiefly mutton), worth £1,600,000. Products of the mines yield rather over £1,000,000 of exports, practically all gold. Products of the forest and agriculture yield about £1,000,000 worth of exports between them. The chief forest product is the remarkable semi- fossil resin kauri gum which is dug out of the soil in some parts of the North Island. Pastoral Products. — Looked at from the point of view of productions. New Zealand is mainly a sheep-rearing country, but, unlike most new countries, it has acquired a reputation not only for wool but for carefully-fed mutton also. In 1898 there were 19,673,000 sheep in the colony, mainly in the east of South Island and in the south and east of North Island. The 244 NEW LANDS. pastures of New Zealand are mainly sown with European grasses. In its native state the land was covered with ferns of many varieties and a coarse tussock grass, growing in tufts and of inferior quality for grazing purposes. The fern having been burnt off, good pasture grasses can be easily grown, and in 1898 there were over 10,000,000 acres of artificial pasture in use. Cattle are kept (to the number of 1,200,000 in 1898) chiefly in the provinces of Auckland and Wellington in North Island, and Taranaki and Otago in South Island. Dairy farming is increasing in importance, the large trade in frozen meat making the transport of frozen butter easy and cheap. Although the country is well adapted for horse-breeding, the number of horses exported from New Zealand has been falling off. Agriculture. — Agriculture is annually increasing in import- ance, but the area of land under crops varies greatly from year to year. In 1898-9 there were 399,000 acres under wheat, a total that was more than the average of recent years, but less than it once was. There were 417,000 acres under oats, and 416,000 acres under turnips. Potatoes also form a large crop. By far the greater part of all these crops are raised in the pro- vinces of Canterbury and Otago in South Island. There is a small export of oats and potatoes, but wheat, which was a comparatively large export up to 1892, has now to be imported to supplement the native supply for home consumption. The yield per acre of all crops in New Zealand is exception- ally high, and the labour of farming is claimed to be lighter than in most countries on account of the favourable climate, kindly soil, and the absence of disease in plants or animals. Minerals. — The gold production of New Zealand is fairly steady, and the amount obtained from quartz veins is increasing, although more than half the yield is still got by alluvial work- ings. The most productive goldfields are in Auckland, Otago, and on the west coast. The introduction of gold-dredging machinery on the rivers has proved very profitable, but the appa- rent yield of gold per miner is curiously small. Divided amongst the 14,200 miners engaged, the annual yield of £1,080,000 would only furnish £76 per head. The output of coal reached 900,000 tons in 1898, and is steadily increasing. It does not quite suffice for the demand, about 110,000 tons requiring to be imported yearly. The chief coalfields now being worked are on the west coast of South Island, and in Otago ; but there are other fields in Auckland and Nelson. NEW ZEALAND. 245 Small quantities of silver, antimony, copper, manganese, and sulphur are worked ; but there does not seem to be any large supply of iron ore, although immense deposits of rich titaniferous iron sand are found at Taranaki and elsewhere on the coast. These were formerly worked for export, but are now somewhat neglected. Forests and Fisheries. — Of the forest products by far the most important is the kauri gum, obtained by digging over the sites of the once extensive forests of kauri pines. A consider- able wood industry also exists in Auckland, the kauri and other pines forming admirable timber. The fisheries are not much developed, but are decidedly promising. The rivers are stocked with trout and other fish brought from Europe, but native species of much value for food abound round the coast, and there is some trade in fish to Australia. The New Zealand oysters form an increasingly important export. Manufactures. — Manufactures of all kinds are encouraged by the protective tarifi". The chief industrial establishments, apart from those employed in building -construction,