^:^ ASIA L/BRARY ANNEX 2 ^ ■c-v. - vf^:' i h\ .^ . .%#-0_ i^'*V;%|,x' i ^*^; QJorttEU Uttineraitg ffiihtara Strata, SJem ^mk CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GCFTOF CHARLES WILLfAM WASON CLASS OF 1B76 1918 Cornell University Library DS 709.T19 3 1924 023 226 446 The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023226446 ORIENTALIA Pamphlets and Magazine Excerpts NINGPO TO SHANGHAI, IN 1857 by William Tarrant. NINGPO TO SHANGHAI A IN 18 5 7 IVfA TffM lipRDERS OF AN-WHUI PROVINCE, MOO-CHOW-FOO AND THE GlfAND CANAL.-] — www^ i» » M» aw CANTON; >■{»^.(J. ^-f'HNKi / / PREFACE, The following pages were printed off as they were written, shortly after the writer's return to Hongkong in I857i sQcl would have been published before, had time allowed the prepAation of a map and index which he intJMided to accompany the itinerary, Alm^hih&WilijoIe of the country travelled over has since fallen into the hands of the rebels^ so that, though late, what is now submitted will prove useful to future travellers in affording materials for a contrast. WILLIAM TARHANT^ Cantoo; January !i!lst, 1862^ INDEX TO ORDER OF TRAVEL. DEPAETMENT OF NING-PO (CHE-KIANG.) KING-PO MSTiaCT Kong-keao to Ning-kong-jow p_ j Jiing-koDg-jow to Haou-long p. 2. DEPARTMENT OF SHOU-HING (CHE-KIANG.)' ' f'UNG-'WHA DISTEICT. Haou-long to Ho-pe:chee p. 2. Hd-pe-chee to the Kwei-ling-foong . . . , p. II. '- • SING-CHONG DISTRICT. Kwer-Ung-foong to the Poosan Monastery . p. 13. The P(^,^jgni^astery to the Iron Streams . p. 15.* The Iron Streams to Sing-chong .... p, 24. D2aNG DISTKICT. Sing-chong to Dzing , p. 33. TCHI-KI DISTRICT. Dzing to the Fong je-ling , p. 35, The Feng-je-h'ng to Fong-je-how p. 39. DEPARTMENT Of HANG-CHOW (CHE-KIANG.) TSIEN-TANG DISTRICT. Fong-je-how to Foo-yang p. 40. FOO-YANG DISTRICT. Joo-yang to the Dung-ling p. 42. YU-HONG DISTRICT. The Dung-ling to the Nan-kae-Iing , . , p. 43, LING-HAEN DISTRICT. The Jian-kae-ling to Ling-haen . . , . , p, 44. U-TSIEN DISXBICT. LJng-haen to the Woo-ling-ize p. 45. Woo-ling-sze to the Eastern Teen-muk-san , p. ij. Fast Teeiv-tnuk-san to the Choey-yen-sze . p. 51» The Choey-yen-sze to the Western Teen-muk- san . . . . p. 62. l"he Western Teen-muk-san to the T ai-ye- wan-ling . . . . , p. 63. DEPAKTMENT O^" NING-KWOK (A.N-WHUY.) NING-KWdfe DISTiaCT " *> Tai-ye-wan-ling to Taichew-fong-ling . p. 63. ■^^li^^hew-fong-liag to the Confucian Pass p. 76. ^""^^lap'AKTMENT OF HOO-CHOW (KIANG-SU.) V -^-.j^OU-FOONG; DISTRICT The Koon-jfootquan to Haou-foong , , p. 77, ! ANE-CHEE DISTRICT. Haou-foong tof Sze-tche-sah p. 78. Sze-tche-sah to Ane-chee ..... p. 79. Ane-chee to Mai-chee p. 80. jllai-chee.to Hoo-cho\r-foo p. 81. WU-DZING DISTEICT. Kan-dzing to Jin-zek p. 82. DEPARTMENT Of KEA-HING (KIANG-STJ.) KWEI-GNAN DISTRICT. J|n-zek to Say-ehee and Ping-bong . . p, 83, DEPARTMENT OF SUNG-KIANG (KIANG-SU.) TSING-PpO DISTRICT. Ching-zek to Ching-koo-yuen . . . .p. 8S. SHANGHAI DISTRICT. Ching-koo-yuen to Shanghai . . , . p> 87, DEPARTiMENT OF NINGPO. District ofNingpo. ^ Kong keao ^ p (Stream's mouth) is a small village of one street on the right bank of a wide gtream, crossed, though fordable in the dry season, by a substantml^roofed bridge. Ihis bridge is lined on the viitegf*ur sJ^hern side, for about a hundred feet, with small shops and idol depositaries. P^eeding from kong-keao to Ning-kong jow * the course, to the right of a seven storied Pagoda on the bill over the north bank of the stream, is about N. by W. the distance 14 ntiles. The road, or pathway, about five feet wide, is laid with round and rough dark red granite blocks. Road ways of similar description, in some cases im- proved with a. centre line of flat slabs, are found to run between most of the villages and thorough-fares throughout the province (Chekiang); — stone tablets here aiid there bearing and immortalizing the names of the iildividaals by whose means the works were effected. ■ The most unpleasant part of the travelling in this quarter is the continued sight of and effluvia from ordure pans and necessaries on the sides of the road. In half a dozen hours' travelling, as many as half a hun dred of these necessaries are to be seen, and of pans, * The Chinese characters for this as well as the names of the ether places mentioned will be found in a separate inde.v. 2. Ningpo District. abput three feet across and of similar depth, the num- ber is i^ncountable. '1 he absence of other material for manure is, of course, the apology ; though, as such things are not met with in such profusion, or in such display in other parts of the province, the applogy 15 a poor one. The lEnd yields tMf'o crops annualiy--that of the. autumn will be rice principally ; — of the spring, Wheat, Grassicher (1) Beans, Tea and Cloyer. The latter is ,grown over the Paddy stumps, With which it is afterwards ploughed up and left to rot and enrich the soilr The Teas, Beans, and Bean seed of the Grassicher spdken of, are cultivated principally , for the oil expressed from them. The leffves'and sptouts of the latter are eaten as a vegetabfe, The. region hereabout, however, is re^^kable for the pro. duction of a medicinal bulb called -T'ko^^ap ^ -j^ (2) Growing as a grass, its blade's reseriibie tH^se of the carnation. It is planted in the fourth month of one year and rem ins until the fbfiffh month'^f the year following, when it is taken up and sold to Urug- gets as atonic for sixty cash a catty. During thg year of its -growth, Potatoes, Hetap or Cotton may be grown over it, A mow of land produces from two to five hundred Chin^ (3 ) of the bulb in a year. Rushes for mat making are grown 'here too, and. Mulberry and Tallow trees flourish largely. From the berry of the latter the candles usfed in Chel^iang are made. Coated with animal fat th^ey bUrn -^ell, though the* clumsy bamboo wicks, swathed #it£ cotton twist emit a good deal of unpleasant smoke. .* • ' To reach Ning Kong jow, the stream has to be crossed three times, one of the bridg^at a place called Seang'koh deo, t^ith some S^qOOJu habitants, being rooofed over as at Jtong "Meo. About 5 le (4) from Seang'ho deo is another vQlage' called I>MW^-JeAoic/with 100 families ;— a family being estimated as consisting on the average of five souls. There may be other causes apart from the ^ae» Ningpo District. 3 tice of recording families in the ancestral hall which induce an acquaintance with the subject ;— but. it is a circumstance of note that a Chinese, however loiv his rank, if asked the number of families in his vil- lage is invariably prompt with a reply, — and in three answers out of four the number approximates. As NingJcong,Jow is often visited by iVlission- aries from Kingpo, no more need be said of it than that it appears to be a place of considerable traffic in timber and bamboos, as seen in rafts on the stream. Of its reported 3 000 families it boasts a fine ancestral Hall of the *M Foo family. Four le from Ning kong jow, in a Spu' vvesterly direetiooa, is a village called Pow site hoe The • sceneTy^ oji the„^Qjad is most pleasing; the high cliffs overhanging'the stream giving it the charac- ter of the country about the Swiss Lakes. Fishing with cormorants is common here; — the house wives busy with cotton spinning. About three mites from Pow she ho in a Nor' wes- terly direction is the Heaven Struck rock, a ' spot of considerable note among the natives of the district. The path way to it is cut out of solid brown lava like rock,-p-ihe hill angling up at jabout,80<» to a height of seven or eight hundred feet. Teen tutig gun is the native na.me of the locality. The stream at this place, though shallow, flows rapidly from the Eastward. A little to the northward of Teen tung guv- is the village of Tehing koe with l,Qo6 families. Good blue Bricks and Tiles are made at Tching koe-, ' — ^the sisse of the former, 13 inches by * by 2 being quite out of pariiamentary standard. They are half burnt as in the south. In building they are placed edgeways— ^hollows oi from three to nhie inches being left throughout each wall.' This jicigde of building is the same throughout the pfo- 4 Mngpo JHstriet. viiiae. These briclcs ai'e sold at the Kiln at 1600^ Cash- per thousand, or, according^ to their cube^ someAvhat dearer tjhan Bricks in the South. 'the tiles aie two cash each— also dearer then the better burnt Kwaag turig tiles.. - '^ears they are taken up a;;d planted on thq biHs, SQ^»£*imes in little crevices over rock wh'^r^ nothing ifji*e v?ouId thrive. In such a vyay, the^h;jls TQ^y^he ^^^ covered for miles, and where tiftey are A^t^softhe ground is under preparation. for the»»i,---fHe cultiva- tors and proprietors of tliese Fir 'plantations have various ways of disposing of their Crops. The first gain is from the loppings of a certain quantity of the branches,— rthen, when mature, the whole of the branches are sold^ afterwards they make sale of the poles, with or without the bark, and lastly the roots. Men grubbing for roots and preparing the soil for a crop pf Ma^a may be seen on hills- if most desperate angle. The maize stumps are not reMiov6,d, but are left to enrich the soil. before firs are again planted, or they are burnt and worms destroyed. fp To reach Haoulung the traveller has to retrace, tbie path from Chong ching tq Wching hoe. At the latter place is a free ferry, a boat and hauling line being provided by the Country people for whoever may want them. The stj?eam here though the water is shallow, is of considerable width, and the traveller cannot help noticing how very much ground is lost to the pubUc by the inabilitx to Mngpa District. . 5 restrain the streams within narrower channels. Rather to' Want of pecuniary means than to lack o£ engineering skill, this inability, has to be attributed. From Tching ko to Hapu loong the distance is 6^ attles, almost due South. . Haou lotjng within the memory of the oldest iniiabitant in 1 857 had never be n visited by foreign- 63*8, and that old gentleman, the oldest inhabitant, oneofsevieral of ei^ty years of age and upwards; was a patriarch ofthe Clan 'rzing\^-^& clan showing iti its ancestral Mall the tablets of twenty genera- tions. The -^blets spoken of, — though alike in shape t<> tho tablots usually seen, viz pieces of half-inch durable Jcard, a^bfiat ft foot long and two. or ^ree inches wide, with a small stand,- — are" here painted . green and picked with gold ; the characters denot- ing the name of the honoured spirit being also gilt. Of one thousand families.in Haou, loong seven hun- dred glory in the naijie of Tzing. The tax on land here is 450 Cash per year per mow (6) or, according to the rate of currency, about fourteen Shillings per acre. Neighbouring villages pay 300 cash per mow o^g, — the villagers having objected, uiciarmiV, to pay more. But the Tzing$ are loyal men. One of their clari, in lfc56, received the degree of iSwEfcai. They look upward for the Celestial glance, and, like sycophants all the world over, bear uncomplainingly the burdens their more independent countrymen resist. Four Jiundred and fifty cash a mow. however, is not so. high a rate as is levied in other parts of the province. On a professed , annual value of 6,000 cash, ten per cent is known t^be taken.( 7) T'hat the land tax gene- Fallj is deemed a trying burden is- evidencijd by the fact that in many cases, as told of by Vv Med-. hoTst in the accoant of his visit to Teen muh son fa 1854^ and by other writers,, the landholders Fe-, 6 Mngpot District. quire bamboqing before it cag^,be got froai- theftt; and the unfortanate proprietoia hail the advent of a revolution as a mcan^ to relieve them from pay- menfofthe impost. And with justice, indeed, rriay. the people complain, when, for whatever tax they pay, they see nothing in the shape of return. The Governnient, to all intents and purposes, is conduct- ed by the people themselves* '1 he laws of society outraged, the offender is taken to thie- ancestral hall of his clan, or to the nearest monastery. There, the superior of his tribo, if the offender is a native, qr^ the superior elder if a -stranger, investigates the- complaint, enforces the punishment, and at once en'Js the mattei'., The bamboo for iRiitetion> esSrpunisb- menf harig^ in the Monastery kitchen ready for ithe . culprit. There is no imprisonment— no law's delay. Wiien offeno3S are really serious, as defined by the Ta tsltig leu, lee (Code of the present dynas- ty)" a messenger is sent to the Fttere or district town with a report, and, if the offenders are several ill number, soldiers are despatched to bring them to the Yamun, whore the complaint being detailed (the investigation ends w'ih the patriarchs) pun- ishment is inflicted according to the scale.'(8) Whether the incoming Government can aineni this system is doubtful, whether they will attempt to alter it, and Avhethfer Government generally can or will ba conducted at a cheaper rate than the present, are problems,, the solution of which remains m the womb of theifutura.. One thing is certain — the mode of obtaining office must be altered. Western writers point to China's system of giving- oSce to men, who have distinguishei themselves in a literary way as something excelleilt. The ide% speaking generally, is a ialla^y. JNo matter how excellent a, man's ability — the first office can only be obtained by p^rchase after the liter^iry degree Nhigpo District. '7* , hais been conferred ;^-rsuec6eding steps by the sime means; — so that, in reality, he who can extort with the gr^tesfe ability is the man most likely to make his' wiy. The present Governor of Hang- ciiow, a detestor of loreigners, is a remarkable in- stance of this. Brought up in fuUviaw of the ma- chinery of Governthent at i^oo chowfu where liis father held an office only a step removed from thit of a runner, aud barely enabled to compete at the literary examintions by reason of want of qualitica- ■ ition, (no child of a runner of a. Government office being permitted to present himself for three genera- tions^)l.he has^een able to raise himself,— and Ho doubt but he is a ftian of great energy — to his present high position. But these are the men who form the great bars to China's progress. Onee in office they extort right and left — the man with the longest purse, so able to buy office and play counter foil, beinrg the only party likelyto ba satis- fied with the system — a system which, throughout, flourishes on its own rottenness. In Haou loong there is not one opium sihokei'. Infanticide (Female) is practised occasionally by the poorer people, but the pramceis deprecated. N'ot far distanf from the village is a Monastery, to which tradition assigns the residence of a dragon, but the anirnal has not been seen lately. Seven le from Haou-loffngm a Sou' sou' * Westerly direction is the village of Wan ehe, of 100 families, and four le further on, the village erf Neu- ang hoe. '\ he >scenery in this neighbourhood is very pleasing, — th%hQ >Fi^ Wha and Sing Sing-ekong District. 13 . The retnfirkable way in Avhich the hills are coveic- ed with Fir or other timber here, not an inch of ^fivtq^ble ground being left unimproved, has much to do"^^ponvincing the sceptical that for future generations there is little, room— China- is full;— /or her increasing peculation there must be an outlet or other modes must be invented whereby they may gain existence. If mines could be opened in places of known mineral production, a great relief might" be obtained. ^ ; - The view from the top of .the Kwei-ling-foong and from the Jbng-kong-ling temple, a little way down the hill, is grand to a degree. Jn a W. S, W-'ly direc- tion the mountains are very high. Tea is. grown on the hills here in some quantities, an4 bamboo trees in much greater. The a&eent oi- ihe Kwei-Mng'foong occnpxes near- ly an hour of trying travelling. At the base on the western side, is another temple, Kwei-ah-Deen, with a free tea table ;- — Prince and peasant, rich and poor, being equally welcome to a bamboo noggin of the beverage "^which cheers but not inebriates." ■ The village of New-Za is five- miles, in a sou"^ westerly direction, from the Temple on the mount; — and five miles further^ W. S. W. is the Poosaw Mpnastery. On the road to this place are four Bridges, constructed by public subscription in the 3rd year of TaoukWang (as told of in a tablet by a small shrine to the God of waters, opposite Rhino- ceros mount) the Chang family heading the list of contributors, a member of the clan, though pro- fessing his ability to, be small, writing the in-- scription, and setting forth the reasons for the construction of the works.— One of these bridges^ Toong-joio, is a specimen of many others in the pro- vince, Gonstructed of granite stones, three or four' feet 14 Sing-^cJumg District. long, dressed to a curve, and built up, la^tudinally. Thus, fro,m:;tlje floor to the crown of this bridge, of 1 8 feet spaui there are only thr^e stones on one side^wd two»yhere the aide rests on a rock, on the Qther; — the whole arch being built with- about thirty dressed blocks,, .packed on the haunches with uij- "hewh stones from- the brook below. Some remarkable sand cliffs, one called precipice gate, are to be seen here, ^nd the mingmlogist will find materials for research in the vajrious soils of purple, red and other colours in the B^ghbourhood. • There are five-residei;t priests at the Poosan monastery ;— the Abbot's name is Kingrchuen. Mon- astic lands (the Poosan Monastery possessing 100 mow,) are not exempt from the customary impost. Ten miles (30 Ze) N. W, from the Poosan Mon^ astery are the .hills from which iron sand wa.shes. into thfe stream bed below. This sand js sinelted inio pigs' at various, places in the vicinity. Tliere are one or two such smelteries close by the Kwei^ah- Deen (the Temple spoken pf at the loot ofAe Kwei^ ' ling-foong) arid the traveller may be interested in visiting them as well as the raihes. The furnaces are simple upright clay cj^linders, similar to those used for casting purposes in the south of China.. The sand yields of pure ore-two thirds of its^grossweight;; (66 in 100) which, cast in pigs of 3 catties each, sells at the furnace for. 32 cash a catty, about.^ equal to £-12 per Ton of 20^Cwt. (9) They smelt 70o"-; peculs a year at this place, the. residence of 100.. families. ' . Leaving the village of JVeie^Za fov the mines,—-' about a mile nor^ west is the Ij^amlet oi Chang-vab!^^ with 40 families, and one mile north again fe Djee Deo with 100 families. The women here dress. thex]J hair in a peculiar manner. In front it i^ brushes Stng-chong District. 15 «d back as in the south, but the back hair is twiated in a joll, and bound tightly from" the poll with black silk cord j^r alength of 7 or 8 ineh6s.(] 0) This is then turned up, like a horn, at the back of the head, and stands four or five, inches above the crbwn^ the hair then being turned round, so as to- give it the'appear- ance of a ha;ndle. In cases where, instead of being up- right, the Aorn inclines to either side, the wearer has quite a jaunty appearance. In the spring of 1857 foreigners had not been seen before in this quarter, the curiosity exhibited "by all on the occasion of the first visit being something extraordinary. The style of head dress spoken of is fiaund to extend through- out the country from this to the River Tsien-Tdng. Gn a hiir over the large vUlage of /n-^e^'-coon, of .500 families, is an hexagoijal pa^vilion which can be seen for some distaiic&./jjf-g^ec-cowtt is one mile N,-W. from J)je€-l)eo, and one mile further N.W. is Poey- woe, a small place of 50 farhilies. There are two large villages witWh a distance of 4 iB, still^N. W. froin Poey-woe, viz Gan-Deo with IsO and Woo-Dong. with 400 families. The houses are well built at Woo-Dong, and it bears the appfiarance of a thriv- ing place. Tobacco is grown in, this quartet, though not largely. Travelling, by those who ca.n afford it, is in chairs, or rather trays, swung to a pole, the ends of which rest on men's shoulders, Qne mile N. N. W^ from Woo-Dong, is Kahg-lew, &, place which, besides a temple, has only a few Straggling hoases,. But N. N. W, thence, about 4;iie^oflF, is the broad bed of the stream, where, in groups »f 30 and AO together, are the iron washers. The iron sand as befojre mentioned is washed from the hills. This is ascertained by the yield being - most prolific after the floods from the heavy iaihs 16 Smg-chong District. have subsided, say in the 1st and 2nd months of th^ year, Jthepr<;>duce in the ,6th and 7th raonths, (the dry season) being little, The' region over which the iron washings extend i^ from the village of Tung-ling to Wong-Zac» a distance of ten miles (30 /e)-r'the line, so far as it can be observed from kekn-che^rnnhmg N. E. and S. W. ' Th^ stream bed is over a couple of hundred yards in width in some places, though, excepting at rain seasons, the flow is inconsiderable ; sufficient, how- ever, to enable bamboo rafts'to get to the charcoal deposits among the mountains; ' .', The process of irfen washing' is simple. The bed' of the stream, washed and unwashed, is marked off in sections; and small channels, about a yard- wide are made from the main stream, of suf- ficient length to give a good fdll into a wood trough about 6 feet iorig and $ inches deep, 3 feet wide at the top and' tapering to a foot and; a half. Into this trough, placed On a slight inclination, with the- water flowing over- the head board', one man pours iri sand as it is brought jby others,^ or he exhausts a heap lying co:^tiguo«s; Most ofwhat is put in washes- away immediately, leaving- behindit, however, the sought for iron. One trpugh beitig filled,,the water is partially turned off^ and another is proceeded to. In the course of three' or font hours, or less, a trough is thoroughly drained of the- superfluous sand, and the iron grains remain, Sempved in to baskets, this is sold to the first comer at 19 cashaeatty. The washers prqf^s to earn,Hn good times, as much' as 20(J cash a ' day— -at pthers, a mace only — little eflough for such: Paborioiis, wol'-k and so much expo^re. The water, about 5° of Fahrenheit higher temperature than the air at a spring noan--is rough to the- palate and tasteless. Stng-chong District. \7 •- / s it flows gently, the iron, thougli almost imper- ceptible to the touch, may be seen in light streaks on the yMlow sand beneath. The stream here flows from the eastward, and the course to a sfnalf hamlet of 30 families called Ding^wong, is along its left bank for two or three Z^. Half a mile further from this place the road to Shang-chwne breaks away to the southward, through a defile clothed with firs and called ahung-Kay-ling. It was stated at page 12 that the Kxod-ling-foong was the boundary of the Fhing-wJui and Siiig-chong Dis- tricts. 1 here, too, commences the^jj^- nEPARTMENT OF SHAU-HING. Shang-chxjnk is a thriving little town, and here, at stalls by the Hbad side, the traveller finds ex- cellent wheaten flour pancakes, so cheap that a hearty meal can be made of them for the merest trifle. The process of manufacturing these pan- cakes is simple. An earthenware pan is filled with a stiff" batter of flour, water, salt and eggs, and in this the manipulators, old women generaHy, dip the fore fingers and spread, or rather smear the batter lightly over the hot pan ; — one spread one way, one the oth#, a second's delay and the fond is cooked ; coming from the pan as crisp and delici- ous as Hebrew passover cakes. Prepared in stacks a foot high, they are sold by the catty, or singly as required. Similar pancake stalls are found ia and for several days of travel beyond the district city of Sing-chong, and are extensively patronis- ed by way-Tarers from the hills A stream, not the iron washing, is Tiet with at this place, itsi course from the h-Ils^ being almost due south, and 18 Sing-chong Dhtrict. though shallow is a hundred feet wide. Another ^ stream is crossed, too, on the road to Tah-mjjufg^zee, over a bridge of planks and trussels 250feefin length. Tah, ming-zee, a place of 400 families, is one mile S. W.from" Shdng-chune. — Mulberry and Tallow free, growing over a sandy soil, are met in several places on, the road, Hoi-yen, a hamlet of 30 families, is two mile sou' west from Tah^ming-zee. The devotion exhibited hy the old women of this neighbourhood in telling beadg and muttering the Buddftist chant of O-me- fo-fah or veh is remarkable; and if such acts could atone for sins or obtain the wished for good fortune, success would be sure from the zeal idliS' played Opbasioiially, in road side temples, old wo- men and men in threes and fours may be seen per- petrating for themselves services prescribed in pa- pers sold at some monastery of notoriety, and to reach which they make extensivei pilgrimages, . Seated at a table together, all repeating -the mystic words "till both tongue and brain must ache with the 1-epetition, one counts beads, another, at each rfivoiution of the string, moves from a bundle, a sanctified joss stick, the act being signalized by n third with a tap on a small bell, by another with a rap on a skull-like drum, and so on until the prescribed number of joss strcks is expended, and the service finished. Of all Jhe intellect-stul lifying devices superstitiously conceived, Budd- hism must be the most successful. Happy the dtiy when tie devotion now so uselessly expend- pd is given in the exercise of a rational religion ! ^peaking of them as a body, the Chinese are, in- trinsically, a very God fearing people, and Ghristiani ty once introduce^ "will have ardent and faithful practisers. Sing-chOiig District. ^ 19 From Hoi-yen to JFoiig-quong-ling, a. Ding on a hill,which, Vrith its arched verandah and white wash- ed walls is s3en from a good distance, the course is S. W. one mile. From the top of the Ling, Sze-ming- shttn^ a mountain 2,500 feet high, beats N. by W,dis- tant some fifteen miles.. From the top of Sze-ming- shon a view is obtained of three departments at a glance, »iz Ningpo, TaechowandShaouhing. Saii- Tew, a small hamlet of 30 families on the top of llnisiiill, surrounded by tea bushes, is' W. S. W, 5 Is from the ding sppken of. From this spot, as far as the eye can reach all rourtd, only moun- tains meet the view. A little way down the hill, southerly, is the \\)l&g<& o^ Wong-mg-teah, of lOD families, 10 Zr from which, due west of the village, is the district city of $ing-chong. The great object of attraction at Sing chong is the TotO'Va-sze^ or Temple of the Great Buddha ; iind to reach it, travellers from the east pass through the city and mount a sharp ascent in the rear; then descending a flight of ^teps to the other side, a to- tal dist mce from the city walls of 4 le. A monastery of nO priests is attached to the Temple, and, by the Abbot and Gluest chancellor, the latter particularly, every attention and kindness are readily given tr> foreign visitors, A more fortunate selection for such f n establishment could not have been made. It is i n a complete hollow amid a group of hills and preci- pitous rocks from one to two hundred feet high, just large enough for the Monastery and outbuild- ings, the approaches winding in such a way that,^ but for a knowledge of the existence of the place, it would not easily l)e discovered. Here, carved but of tlte solid rock^ fifty one feet in height from the base on which, the demi-body sits, the great Buddh is arched in and enthroned in truly god-like state. fldf Smg'ckong District. ,= The rocli out of trhieh tfie idol is cut, (a congloiH^ erate— porphjritic — resemblirlg a hard 'gray greere free stone) is about" a hundred ,feot high with a N. E'ly aspect. From the ^front of the knees (the figure being sculptured as sitting cross legged) the depth back is 29 feet, the" recess being smoothly coved up until it meets ixt a lozenge arch three feet above the crown of the idol's head. Springing from walls- rising 29 feet above the floor,, and meeting,, on its inner face, the natural rock, is an artificig,! well turned arch of ccfrved »toneSr 46 fret in span, ex-- tending out and forming 25 feet of the roof of the temple, whicb, ort the fcor,,is 4e feet square. The* table ou which the idol sits is Si- feet from the floor, the whole beigbt of the temple being 58 feet to> the cro^vn of the recess. Stout granite columns^ sup- port the verandah forming the exterior of the HalL P> long the walls, on each side, are alcoves, with ten idols in each, of somewhat Jess thai^ human size, Tn. the centre of the area, 7^ fe^* from the great Bud- dha, on a table &feet square, is a very jolly represent tation of the god Me-doe, 6 feet' 6 inches high from: his 3€g,t, supported on either side by the uniinished halves of two figures,, intendecl,^^ when complete, to be ] 8 feet high. Excepting that the ears are extraorcMnarily long,, the great Buddh is modelled in regular proportion. In the palm of the right hand, the fore finger of which measures 6 feet 6 inches in length, is an image on a pedestal. This image, viewed from- the; end of the temple,appear^ as diminutive a-s^ doll. On measure- ment, however, it proves to bo, with the pedestal,. 2 feet 8 inches high. The grea*. Buddha in Ader to make it smooth enough fer gilding, is, in places-, thickly plastered. The head is carved ta the ap- Sing-chong District. 21 "peas^ioe dfaskdil cap, studded with fir nuts, with & round^-sp^ over the forehead, painted partly red, partly brown, similar colours with blue decorat- ing' the head dress. Between the eye brows stands a large round Jade, and in the centre of the barfe T>reast, the bra^tica or character JW is depicted, studded with blue drops. The gilding, though bright, is thin aiwi well executed; the folds of the garments and bands being picked with verinillion, as also are the lips of the image. The countenance is pleas- ing. The width over the Icnees on the seat is 36 feeti In a halo over the head, the recess is coloured to a purple brown, the rfest of the coving and the arti- ficial arch being white-washed. Of the history of this idol the monks know little {11); but tradition assigns its sculpture to the time of the Lean^ Dynasty' (A. D. 550) The tomb of the first high priest is shown close by the temple, under some trees, and is poipted to with much veneration. A cave in a rock above the temple is also said to contain the books and re mains' of a studious old priest. The monks speak of a fire so intense as to have destroyed the fingers of the image as at first carded, and of the plunder of a precious gem, erst in the place of the present jade between the eyebrows; — circumstances leading to the conclusion that in days gone by there were ruthless men as little disposed to pay respect to Buddha as the present iconoclastic followers of Tai-ping-WANG. Attached to the Monastery are 150 nioVr of land, for which the priests pay government annually 250 cash a mow.-^Altogether they pay the state 60 Taels per annum. On the exterior of the great temple are the following inscriptions. Over the lower verandah ^ WM-1r Tah-yeartg-jwio-tea, 23 iSwigwc^oii^ tHstrttt OvBTtke seconEfe story Jj^ ^ ^ ^ Sam-sin g-seng' cJieh. Bettveen the second And third ^^y^ Seaoti^ fimi'ladUf and over' the ioxitth 5^;?N Wl S® ^^' leh-tong-fien, whilst within, on either side of the Tmiige are the following— '^ ^ ||| ^Clmey'sikg^ chongrmie^-^^ ^^ Wl ^^■'t^l^tig'fehi (12). On the right of the entrance to the Monastery are two caves. One of theses^ an aperture some 2 J feet high, 30 deep and 35 wide,, is dedicated to the god' dess of mercy, with whose: image, attended by some two dozen* oiBbers,^ one oft them, a monkey, the cave- is adorned. The other caVe, «orae 40 feet; wide at the entrance, is appropriated to a represeMatibn of Che-foo-tszet and to some comfortable apartments? for priests. Thena,me of Che-foo'tszef\he founder, some seven or eight hundred yea»s agOj of the Chinese atheistic school, from eh^iracters said tc have been written by hinpiself, is engraved on a rock outside the cave a short distance: from the.Mon- astery, On the right of the flight , of steps from . the hill top is another cave aboiit 80 feet wide,. 30 deep, ^> and 16 high. No, less th^n one thous' and images line the walls of thi% place, mere dollsr for the most part, recessed in mud diatribings around a gentleman*of large proportions in; the centre. Ilie priest in attendance here is an intelligent and thrifty old many speaking wit^ an evident sense erf self merit ;at having been able to build a hoi^e and purchase some 25 mow of ground out of the oontriljutions- of devotees at the shrine of which he is^in^jcharge. The antiquarian finds- much to. interest him i n the neighbourhood of the Monastery,- and does, .p,ot overlook the ruins of a paviEon and tx)mb doge by, «^a horse and dragon on the latter, though still in gpQd relief, indicating the hand qf a sculptor pf Sing'Chong District. 23 jnausy ce»|^?ies past. The wails of the City of Sing-chong, upwards of three miles in circumference, ar^d of the average height ©fGhinese city walls, are solidly built of dress- ed granitej with brick battlements, and are in good preservationji^^uging in gottiewhat like the sides of an old fashic*i«ld. ahip. The shape oi the city is that of a long lozenge, smallest on its northern end. i^s ■e«stomaa?y^ there are gates at each of the cardinal points. Much of the space withiti the walls, espe- cially away fttim the centre, is. occupied with mul- berry trees, and vegetable gardens within neichune walleAcompounds, one and two hundred feet j?quare. The tmttlenaehts, Mning a roac'-way from 12 to 15 feet wide, are pierced for gingalls only ;— but none of these impteirients, nor any other kind of artillery, are mounted in peaceful times. The foreigner, as an object of curiosity, creates about him, as a matter of course, huge crowds of obstreperous boys and wonder seekers, —but they are not vicious, and give vent to bo such obscene and insulting expres- sions as are continually heard in the south. The street leading through the city frong the gate at the. nor' west corner, is well lined with market stalls, though not much has to be remarked of the wealth or business of the inhabitants. * I'or instance, there is no silver-smith shop ; the first established luxury dep^&ien in a fishirig village in Kwang- tur^. StiUi the people lo«>k fat and contented ; arid but few beggars are seen, At established money changers, -Caroltift'doUarSi, 10 par cent better then Mexican, ;yieH from 1020 to 1030 cash, each-*- a trifle only under the rate obtainable at J\ing- /po. A reepectable looking ten cash piece is cur- rent h<2re ajid in the immedia-te neighbourhood 5 but it is useltas fd feet each, with two bridges of stout planks and trussels. Between the stream and th^ wall the ground is covered with Mul* berry and Tallow trees, over wheat and other cultivation. Indigo is cultivated in this region too. A short distance west of the city is a semin* ary for ^he education of respectable youth, — and a little beyond, it may be seen a five storied pagoda, crowning a hill overlooking the road froni Sing- chfOng to Diing. This pagoda marks the boun- dary of the Sing chong district. Dzing, or Dzing Yuen^ Yuen or ^cen signifying the chief city of a district,— lies about N. W. from Sing chong yuen ; — though for a third or so of the distance of twelve miles between the two places, the yoad runs to the southward of wefet into a plain. Ten7e from the Tow-ua-sa;*, is the hamlet of San." cheeof Thirty families ;-*-F6ur Ze further, W. by N. is So'chee-deo, a hamlet of similar si^ej and Vow-chee^ a village of 100 families lies a little b«- Dzing Disiriet. 25 ftmd. The European traveUer has no reason^ to complain of difficulty in getting along in this quar» t«r. DingSf {iubstantially roofed sheds, through which the roads run, open ta all, are to be found at nearly every mile, and within them, or not fai' iiistaBi miles, idue north from Yuen-rnaou, over a splendid road, wide enough for a carriage aiid pair with outriders) — the surrounding country being -not unlikevthe small- arable downs of lingland.-i i^pproaching Dzing, the stream is again met running shallow' and fast from the westward; crossing which the ror.d, through gi^oves and' hedge rows of bamboos and mulberry tTee_s, and fields of wheat and barley, ,is a perfect zig-zag,- until it reaches a wider and deeper stream, crossed by a substantial starlinged bridge. On the southern bank of the stream, skirting the suburbs of Dzing, is a small monastery, in whic^ the foreign traveller can obtain, quarters', though less luxurious than those of the (Tow-va^sze. A tablet here records the setting off of a large tract of the river for the preservation of life; and fishing within it, in order that life may be sustained, is not allowed. ^ Very good boiled bread, in not less than four catties at a boiling, can be obtained at Dzing, if orderf'd over night, at 40 cash per catty. Buffalo nrtilk is procurable too occasionally. The city walls, gome three or four miles in extent, are in good condition ; on the northern face running sharply up a hill for a considerable distance. Dzing is a quiet place, with the character of;,being the abode of many of the literati. Of general business there appears to be but little. A iemple to Con- fucius, and some excellently carved stone work, are objects of attraction in the centre of the town. The condemnable custom of leaving' the coffins of the dead ^bove ground, is not practised here so freely as at. Ningpo and other parts of the province; and for miles the hills in the spring time are seen DsUng- Bistriet, ^7 ■covered with the white and pink flowers of pluiA and peach trees, among waving bamboos and small #i's, over wtieat, beans and clover. With its charaseter for learning, Dzing, too, as a conseqixeDce, perhaps^ { after' the classic wit^ ticism ^ Port wine and Greek") is said to shar- ibour many opium smok.ers. Outside the abodes of csuch/ however, but little of the effect of the .priaetice 4s seen ; and liough till may be true that is told by missionary travellers of the result of their observa- tions, it is a ■singuJar fact that ^lain meai of the world in China have to strain both their optic and their Tolfectory sierves to disco^r that -opium is . at all made -ase of. 1 his' fact, however, is no answer to the many escellent and sage observations of those who entertain a penchant f@r condelBning the. use of luxuries to which they, themselves, have no in- ielination. lazing, lite weost of the otiier district cities has rauchouhavated ground within its walls, and, except- ing thatsueh .places afford a shelter to officers of Gov- ernment, and aid in perpetuating the tyranny of the rulers, the benefit accorded to the people by the existence of walled cities is problematical, .. There was a time, perhaps, when the liehestmen of the pro- licinees were quartered within them ; and there are in- dications of such a time in many of the houses now used for the commonest-purposes. Taverns, ( Van- teens) in the suburb3,-^faii.ingmofiiasteries,the only quarters for the fdfeign trafeUerr— are often found to be well arranged houses, with ©pen courts in th^ centres,- and avenues and partitioned roomsT— *built, evidently, for. people who had some sense of taste and decency ; pnt now. Oh, how-filthy and begrim- ed with dust! That a quiet,>easily icontented peo- ple axe borne by their goyemment to the ground J% losing Distmcf. witlt ansoBe'tJian>tBigHfc.iaape«w«%ht, and icruBlie(J df aliiipirifefiMi al^gter order of enjoyment than that possessed by t& Bwate ereattt*«, is proelaim?- odt at, eveHr step m silent speaking liinguugef, mere' ek^ptient (tma the •wail ©f the western' slave: Jrcan tiTSing-yuen t&Coemg-dong-y a ttillagB off a kuadreciikBaikeson the top'of a Mfi^ the dis&nee- is seven- li we^. The. next *|»lace reaehed> N» W^ four mites^ is S^g-'^tfbn-yoMr a hamfetof 50" femi^ lies. Fwim. th® read way, in the centi* of a= semi* eircfe c€ hills,, ^e valley O&elbwj iji a soTSfcthepBy and. westeidly direetiJony is> stias^ied' witfij niHneK)us- vil- lages an^j -wi&ite washed' booses, many of thsm^ apparen<6ly,: the dilfellings of the worlrers among: the hv^e groups of mountains adjacent. Mosen^ shea one mife jN» W, of Smg-caon-you^ lies; a Rttle^ to: the Jgfl oi the roadv It is a 'Villa^^ said to^ number over 400 fenuliesi Thence X viliagesy they do mrt want silvePj amed woi^d rather lose tk& sale of theiir gQodd^itfaan make, what tl\|^ deem. s»cb; a bartbr exchan^, Some fine elm like tcees^ call-- ediFtrng^ey areto be seen iji thjs-q^isiarterj-nr-thft as- Dzing Bistricl. 29 jsect ef the region being that of a picturesque vwoqii- land f interspersed with what foreigners are u^ed to call trmmphal arches, .These are square stone up- rightSy with liirtels and plinths, ihtended tp cojurae- niorate the virtue of some by-gone hero, or heroine. Widows who have lived virtuously are much honour- ed after their decease 'bw memorials of this kind; Indeed the majority of these ornaments appear to have been erected for such a purpose. Still continuing W. N. W. the road runs over one or two hills on which tea is grown, -though not in large quantities, for five miles until the foot of the pass called SMh'meaou-Mng is" reach- ed. Hercj' for at least one good day's plodding, the, traveller bids adieu to lev=el country, and mounts and- descends flights of steps and rugged paths till head and foot are well a^weary . Straw shoes for Chinese -pedestrians are in great demand here. The price-of them, with straw wisp sandals, is only ten cash, or under a half-penny a pair. For baggage carriers they are a bad substitute for a shield ;:to the foot, and are apt to cut the toes or CPeafe l>li8ters. The women in this quarter, even of-^;the poorest class, wear head ornaments of jade i stone set in gold and blue feathers, resem- Mng locket% in the centre of a tiara of black sitfc, satdn, or common cloth ; and though used to wdrking in the fields with the roeU; are all cramped into thi detei&l^ small foot system. Half a dozen miles beyoiid the pass is the vil- lus of Keu^i^in of 100 families. At this place there is a temple, and two fine arched bridges of cobbled stone. After h&v'ing ICewzhin the foad runs through a rocky glen, ^irith one or two beau'- tiful water fail', to the^mht of Seang-ming, oi 30 ftanilies. The distaince from UTewzhin to tMa 30 juzing jjtscrtct. .place is aboiit a mile aad a third N. W. — West Again, distanti four miles, Is thQi San-moong'lin^ to reach whicli, the road, very narrow, skirts tha sides of mountains of frightful acclivity, studded from bottom to top with some of the loftiest bam- boo trees in the world, here and there, on western sides,- over patches of tea trees. Ifras hardly ^fe ^to attempt ridipg in a chair in this quarter;- but in iio part of the world can the beauty ofithe scenery througH which the travfcller passes, until he reaches the hamlet of Shih-chong, be exceeded ; the streams in the glens- below being of oonsideraJble; Width, ■winding principally from the N. W. and running, angrily, to the southward, ^ though they hastened to become the fathers of useful rivers. - . Shih'^kangnntnhQvs some 60 families, all of them engaged in themanufactuirejof a coarse quality i>am- -boo paper. The bambocs used for this purpose are usually two years old. Split and out into thi*ee foot iengthi, they are placed in vats* in. some , cases , covered mth lime, and left to soak in Water until almost rotten. Some s£ these bamboo out tings remain in vat, for eight and nine months before using. This, however, is ar long perim, and one and two months are enough to render the pith of the -bamboo fit, fot the water-power- worked pounding hammer. The process of 'manufactur- ing the paper is similar to that in the .west. The pulp is thrown into vats which are fed with "water, - through skoota leading from the hill streams, the pulp being taken up on fine bamboo screens. One pair of hands- is able, to throw off as many as , 300 sheets an hour; a pile" of 3 feet high, of sheets 2i by 1 foot sqtiare, being a -fair day's work. The machine for expressiiig > the water from*tha pile is clumsy enough, but ^ififectual in r«duQing Dzing District. .31 it to about a fourth of its cube. The drying houses are low buildings with walled ovens in the centre?, and fed from the outside. To the exterior of these Avails, as they slightly s;lope in from the base, the sheets are lightly pressed, and left until they dry and drop off, after which they are placed in stack, "ready for market. 'This paper is often used in the lieu of horseJiair or straw for plaster Avork, and sells for 2,400 cash per pecuL of 100 catties; A good deal of paper is made from straw, tooj in this quarter, and also" farther along on the bofderS of the River Tsiett'tang. The gOod white paper seen in Shang- -hae is. manufactured at Soo-chow, and, though of better fabric, is dearer than that made in the south. Frond Shih^chong, still tvaveUing W. N. W. the road runs through a continuous series of mountain ' passes; the rocks in some'place&lyiiigtip'and down in heaps in admired coirfusion;— foaming brooks and water^falls adding the highest grace to the all- romantic scenery. Some of the timber cut here re-, sembles the beech for closeness of grain, md would serve admii'ably for stocks for carriage wheels. In lengths of ten and twelve feet, large stacks of it are '- to l^geen in the streams, or on their banks awaiting transport to a mart. So difficult is it for the chaiv coal carriers: and native travellers in these defiles to obtain food, that they usually carry it^ (eold rice and greens^) in small ba^, and eat by the w^y side. •^ieu->koh-^an fbur mites and a third from Shili- ehtmg, is a small hamlet of 20 families ; and, still ascending^r-stili isscending— the next place reached, Tqft'Chay'WOO, by a small arphed bridge, number^ only three families. At the Z>ewg^ here, the travel- ler misses the customary idol ; but in place of it finds paintings of gods:andgoddesses,r^red capped and qiubbedbimtersi and venerable ladies. ThQ 32 Pisiftg iHstribt. Ethnologist ipmeWmg through Cbekiang finds much «u|yeGt fpr ,w6rKing qft;*|i the marked ten- dency of the pa^le to vaiied forFms of worship. In each district there is morie or less of supersti- tion ci' a kind different from that of its neighbour. At one section the 4mgs have small, at others, large idols J— at one^ one cfess of paintings, at anothe^r, another class;— and northward^ between the pro- vinces of Ahwhujf and Eiangsu, both idols and paint-^ ings disappear. It is bard for a foreigner to predi- cate from the disposition of the peqpje in one province what is likely to fee expected in the province adjoin- ing.. ; In one district the inhabitants are biebly phi- lanthropic, keepiagtea ri^dy for thetraveller^com fort, with payment toi«a priest to see that the kettle boils ;— ^iu another the tea has to be paid for; but in all the districts we «re writing ofj there is a lauda- ble spirit of treating^ia^hotber kindly ,^ and doing for the neighbour what they: would have d(me for themsel^^es. The broad mountain stream from the west is met at Tan-chay-w&o by another stream from the north, following whose left bank tbe traveller, at two /e distance, arrives at Sun-chay-iooo, the Idea- tion of 2 or 3 families engaged 'in smelting- iron sand ; and a little further on isOpng-hongi^ a haimlet of HO families, near the foot of a pass ealled "Shang cop-twfg. A fariijaceous article called JLieo^gi^his.-' Jcee, IS procOTjedfrom the thin black roots of a fern- grovj^iqg inthis quarter. Woman and childten are the manipuiators, by -beating the roots^ which have an oily smell, dn stoaes by the way side. Tea is grown in some quantit^y on the tops of the hills here; the ascents^rigiftg at an average of four feet in ten. Descending, .tbe course is aibout N. N'. W. for one mile to the viiksf e of Sh^hong, <>f 150 famities> Tchi-ki District. 33 and tlience, still descending, trending somewhat to the southward of west for about seven le, & Ding is arrived at, marking the boundary between the districts of DziNe and Tchi-ki. j^ i^': ' So Utilitarian are the Chinese in a'l their produc- tions, that, on viewing the marked difference in the aspect ef -the foliage on the approach to the I'chi-ki district, the traveller is induced -to stop by. the de- scending way to enquire into the character of the massive trees, with ferny branches of a deep olive green not ufdike those of the old Yew of England. Trees of thkidescription are cultivated in large num- bers and cut into e}C«eltent planking. The Landscape pajiiter, for a picture here, has to exhaust his pallet. The soil, of a red brown, is in parts cut up 'for iptanting ; in others covered with the yellow flower«l irassica before spoken of, or with maize or sedges; — 'then the limner has the green of wheat, the -deeper tinted tea, the gold a:nd silver wreathed itomboo, and the dark olive of the yew tree j— ^the hills, in some parts, rising pecpendieula«ly frofl) the stream bed below, and coQtiniially inoucing in the lover of nature in its rugged forms, an esM^lamation of pleasure and sur prise. • v, ' ^ Fong-jue-lin^, is the name of the pass between the:l^iiiia«y of the districts and a little Ibeation called fTehin-za'-dbm, 5 miles N.W. from the village o^Shee^kongi where one or two families are employ- ed in the manufactory of-paper. From Tchin-za- dow tO'C?^'9^--A;a-«o0, a •hamlet of 40 families, the ctui;se is IV;N.-E. one mile. A fine open ancestral hillis.tobe seen < here ;and from the appearance of th%BXted<»'s of the little two storied whitewashed h.ou6e%^ith>indented window lintels and ornament- ed .gaheJa, the inhs^itants might reasonably be ex- 34 Tchi-hi Distiict. pecfed to possess more desire for clfeanliness within their dwellings. Dirt and filth, however, are all iheir ornament ; — the comfort of furniture, indeed, is sparingly im^iilged in hy Chinese. Prom ibis place to Che-hew, a village of a hundred families, the course is north, distant one mile. Good, swet t, crisp, finger shaped biscuits can be bought iiererat two cash each. By a tliree piered Bridge on the roaid side there afe several bamboo crushing mills for paper making. SdJi-keo, a village, of 150- familiep, N. by W. five U from Che-keWf is the first patch of houses on the plain. By a small temple outside there is a fine Camphor tree*- of latfge size \ the surrounding country being covered with mul- berry and other trees, of loftier growth. Yrom^Sah-keo to 5'Aae-faA, and beyond it* the paved cause-way is wide enough for a carriage, and js kept in excelh'nt repair. Skae-fah numbers 550 families, and Woo-jaw,a. little further on, 700 fami- . lies. The houses, of a superior class, are walled in here, and from the number of celebration columns seen, and other indications, . the inhabitants ap- pear, to be above the ordinary standing. LoO'[ng7i is a hamlet of iO families two miles N. Wu from Woa- jaw J and 5 le further, W. N. W. is Zoo-tow of 50 families. . At Loo'ngh is a fine two storied temple ; — 'the country around exhibiting some lofty firs and low poplars-;_the hills in early spring being covered with a^ralias of wild growth. N.W. of Zoo-tow^xm a hiiSI, is a square pagoda of five stories. A sixth story hss fallen off just over the uppermost window, so giving to the top of tiiG pagoda the appearance of a 'pattlemenled tower. On measuretnent,' thispa^- da, built of brick, js found to be 13 feet square outside, the lower walls 3 feet 9 inches thick, lower Tchi-ki Distriei. 3$ story 13 feet blgh, and the other stories of similar height apparently. -^ ; , i^~ Imtmdiately beneath the pagoda, N. W. is the town of Fong-je-how^ and further on in a. Nor' westerly direction are a series of lakes and winding streamB between the hills- and the Rivlei* Tsien-tang. On the south fcot' of the hill under the pagoda is. a capacious niouastery, with good ac- comodatioH'forthe&feigniravellcrif he require it. l^ut at Fotmg-je-how there are three firms, viz the Wmi-hOyi\ie tang-jiw^ and the Ta-keu, all doing a stirring business in tea and silk with the northern consular I'orts. The head of the first named, a gentle- men of the name of Ijuh-eMng vsoo, ( 1 1 ) is prone to hospitality, and will not permit the foreigner to re- main at the tomiastery outside. f^ From Mr Imh or his brothers, the traveller may gain much - useful and interesting informa- , tion. From him it was learnt that though there were as many as 5,000 fanulies in the town, say 2;',000 people^ there .was not one officer of gov- ernnaent; and as this place may be taken as an in- dex to towns of similar size throughout the country, we here see upon what erroneous bases we speak when we say that to destroy the government, as established in a walled city, we lea^e nothing to follow but anarchy ibr the mass. * In reality, as before stated, the people of China govern them- * The Weekly despatch oi ]hi^ 1st. February 1 8 57. 'thus re- V murks on the then recents acts of war at Canton, — "And now having destroyed the Chinese Government, and brought chaos upon 350 millions of people, wjl| Ministers tell us wbet|be;r they are prepared to substititte another ruling power for that they Jhai;e destroyed? Do w'e propose lo^annex China, or to partition it among the friends of the "sick man," American, French and English 1 ' Arq we re%Ily aware what we are about when we taker fronv coutitless millions their recognised ru.'ers 36 TieMM District, selves.; a(nd no blows that may be directed at pro- vincial heads, will affect, so far as thetgeneral well being of society is cohceraed, the condition of the' masses ;— provided always that outlDlows are not so directed -a;nd so continuous as to pirostrate the whole fabric ; and to destroy that supreme police for which Governments, eveii of the worst class, are tolerated. By the ameestral hall of this &mily (a capadoa^ building exhibiting the tablets bf twenty four genera- tions of the clan Iduh,') the firm of Wan-ho have their manufactory for the tea knowxi to the trade as the Ping-suey, a greea of excelilent character. Until the fourth month of the year, when the gather- ing commences, the 120 drying ;pa/BS of the Wan- ho establishment are filled with paddy husk, to pre- vent them from rusting, and nothii^ is done, be- yond the mabufacture of tiie boxes. Erom Pmtg-je- hoWf the depot of some surrounding miles, 270,000 pounds of Tea and 3^000 Bales, or nearly as m^ny pounds, of Silk, are s^t annually to the foreign markets. These goods when destined &>r Shaaghae are trans- ported in boats of the aapacity of a hundred chests each, by the way of Hatjg chow, at which place Teas pay a tax of 1,1.00 «ash (nearly three farth- ings per pound) per chest. Were these goods taken to Ningpo direct, such duty would be avoid- ed; and it is to be regretted that attempla are not made to -divert some portion of thetea ^nd «ilk to a place appearing to possess equal facilities and, -withdraw frdni tliis seething knass trf human Hfe the organ- ism by whicih it liire'd ?^ Have we nnOther administrative ;dis- petisatioti to differ it in the, place 6f that which has beealkshioned bjr the-light of the experience of man:y centUTies? Do we know what it is to undertalre such a respbn'il>iHtjr,ior to throw into ut ter confusion rfU the recognised tn^tihinery orState poster in such a boundiea empire ?'" ' ' Tchi-ki District. 37 with the other Consular Ports for doing business •with dealers in the interior; At present the only artiqle taken in return is Sycee Silver,,and it may be^ some opium. The places where opium is made use of at Fong-je-how," ho-wever, are not publicly known; and the foreign traveller has some difficul- ty in finding them out. The article, it is Said, is carried to Fong-je-how by the way of Shaou-hing foo. Until recently, say up to the autumn of 18 56, clean Carolus dollars, in company with Sycee, were-' the media of exchange ;— but latterly there has been such extraordinary fluctuations in the rvalue of the dollars, (Government edicts, perhaps, have had some what-todo with it,) that Sycee Silver or Copper cash are the only articles in 'which, as a rule, value is returned. . /. ■ The people employed on the Tea works are all paid after the rate of a mace a day, in hard coin ; and it is easy therefore to understand that copper . cash will, be in great deitiand ; — ^but over and above the labourers'- wages there must be a large surplus, and' it is to be regretted that an introduetion can not be made of our woollen goods. It would t>e even ad'- visable to give away woollen comforters and socks and mits for a time in places like jFongfje-how, in order to induce a fancy to such things. In cold weather — and by common report it is cold enough — they would be iiivaluable, and highly„appreciatecl. Up to late in the spring it is not uncommon to see small brass band baskets, with live ashes, carried about from place to place, and moved from. foot to foot as reqijisite j^poor substitutes for the comfort of worsted stockings,!. ' ; r The land tax here is after the rate of 360 cash ' 'per mow (&^ mows, or, to be precise, 6,nirraows going to an English acre) the best -land letting for 38 ^M'M Msttiet. 3,000 daste a mmr a yearV But]£iiid,Ji^|i^^!l||^, ife let to th6 ^Bilrferdifer fof d^ c#)tkgi^ $|me fcrb|)§'. What tMs pev detota^ is ii^ fdMife^ is ifeihd tlii- "v^ilRng to tfell ; afldj ffoni tlie VaripiiS tfe^bits, and, again, froifii tfce v^ti&tf ih Ai^^feigftts- Uiid ilieaaureS in the feeveM difeti^ibts-, tliea-e is' much aifeca|lty iit arriving at trti.thtel Statistics. For a^bdd Cai^oM dollar, 1100 (D6JJ{)gi'''cas!i can be obtiainedj^^for a Carol us 10 per 6ient'b^ttfer than a Mexican, lOlO Cash— FoT a M^icfeii dbllai* 9id cash. Some of the building*' a* Fdbkg-jd^Kbw resemble palaces ; and there is an' e:*^ll6iit Specimen of iAaBbUfy in vi lai'gei arched bHdgi9 oVer tlie. strfeaWi. i , Five /rl^i W. froin Fdng-je-hdib,h tlid hamlet of Tchwo^atii of 60 familidsj and ttti&mile futther on the hamlet of Owydee. Thence to the ferry and Boai statidn, «ti a dahallfeadift-^ t6 the T^ien- tang, the distaniSej ^tiil N. W. is about 2 Zfe. , The tidij #hieb by the way of the T^efA-T&h^ flows in feoiMjHaWgcfti&'vi^ Bay, runs up the cri^eK ef •canal* whi^ «fe ti-d^'ellbi' from FoTfg-i^^^Qtt takes boat for Fob^dng. These Bbiitsj ot about four tons burtherii are - priopelfed" irit a tttindttfe way by a nian eittittg at the- stei-tt, and pMyi'^^ with his feet on> the Weighted end of a broad bk^Md sknll, For a Watefc of half a d§zen hours the^e ftielh jfeeSp steadily attheii' post Withorit a^y oth^iF flKiVteiiieht than that of the feet^ Or a sw*6ep J-l^lf ^i* left Wittt an additionisiil' skull out of the sterft HeW ttiiddr; th^ arm. Th»^ricfe for hire of one bf thfe^ %aafe #bih .the VQtvfioFm-yang^ is 2,600 tefe^, ttigfeffii*- Wii^ wTiat is oatM Wi«e ftioney, which \k iL dld^^i^ of a. mace or so for good behavibiih Th!6 i^tt^df direotilitt U. the!^iia!ilft,"'lhtiugfe Wifldiiig' ih '^btaie extraordinary fcbtftbrtibi«i bi6talien%ll^ib WJHM^ I•■ The cdunfi-y -baiifd^'bHt»fifl96' built 6n; the busi- ftess piH'i^ lii<4 leWri lyiftf on the south. On the #este^^ii^iitt^e*<3r tftfe! ^ivH is a well fuiiish- 40 Foo-yang District. ed grey sandstonp three arched bridge of curved stones,, the road way on the top being Hned with market stalls,. The walls of the city of Foo-yang — an oblongr three or four miles round — are not in very excellent condition'} and in many places are delapidated and' covered with verdure. As a place of business, however, neither /fein^ nor Sing- chong can compare with Foo-yang for Bustle. A short distance north of the city is a small temple at Which a traveller could quarter, and one mile N". by W. is the vjWage^of L'eong-van-ha. Thence, two U W. N. W. is Sing-jow a long ;vil-* lage of 1,500, families, inhabited principally by straw paper makers. A branch of the Tsien-tang is here crossed by a fine one arehecf bridge, another branch running to the northward for a distance of 40 or 50 loi Some' excelleftt peppermint lozenges are procurable here at the cheap rate of a cash each. From Sing-jow to Kwong-Djean the distance, in a N.W. iy direction,is four miles ; though, all around, the plain appears covered with straggling hamlets; the white washed houses, with their step like gables, appearing at a distance like gothic priories, • The people of this quarter speak in high terms of the security they enjoy from plunder or attack from free hooters. Bee hives are to be seen in this quarter ; — and honey is procurable at a cheap rate. Five le N, Y^ .Xrom Kwong-Djean \s Suchang a village of 200 families, and two miles further on in the same course is Song-jin, a very old fashioned , little place, the inhabitants being similarly peculiar. Five Zr N, of Song-jin is Yang-ko-fah a. village of 100 families, and ^Is further on is Cheensoling. of 200 families. Thence to Cho-keu, a hamlet of 50 families, is a short couple of /e, and a little over a similar distance is iioo-moe of 200 families. Three Yu-hong District. 4 1 mil^s further en, still iri a northerly direction, is thi Dung-Idng, or pass. marking the boundary between the .Foo-Faw^ and Fw-ftong- Districts,: passing over wMch, the traveller descends very abruptly by gome large kilns for burning lime, The black lime stone rock here is aJniost perpen tiicular; — the strata being- intersected with, sstreaks of white and red porphyry and carbonate of lime, in lines running longitudinally to the E.N. E. Blast- ing does not appear to be understood, and each block for the kiln is cut out with the cold ciiisel. Farther down the pass, a beautiful place among the hills, is the hospitable village of Le-skuet-sun of 300 families, and. a short, distance up the. glen is the Ka-yuen-sze a,small monastery of five priests. . Umbrageously sheltered, it is a dwelling which in the greatest heats of summer possesses a delicious coolness. The Superior, by the name ofCke-yuen, is remarkably .attentive to foreigner|. Pumice stone, said to have been procured from neighbour- ing hills, is exhibited here, from which it mjiy be inferred that the region is volcanic. A mile from the Ka-yuen-sze is the Nae-hae-ling, a , pass, marking the boundary between the Yu- hong and Jjing-haen districts, and a Is and a half beyond it, jis Nieu-che-ning the residence of two or three taxaiYies—Ning-hwio-deo^ a. Is further on in a vvesterly direction, is another dwelling plaoe- of three or four families. The roads in this quarter are nicely laid with rough pebbles. Fwo-paleu, a straggling village of 250 faniilies is one le west (rom JSing-kwa-deo ;.r-^andpn a sim- ilar course, within distances of a Is and a half from each other, still descending, from th« pass, are the hamlets of Wo-ckee-deo of 60 families— So-che'dah of 5 or 6 families,— In-geewei of 3Q femilies, and 42 Mkg4i:atn BisUrict. Shing-fatof 5 hmlm. Badket n^^kihg is larj^Iy practised in this qoiapftesr. The coarse frdm In-g%e^U to the hattileit of Ting-yuen of aoofafflfli^is N. W;-^the dii&taimre foui- milesj priircipally thrditgfe a WMfey over a mile and a half wide. 1Fhfe Kftie ^tone strata hereabout has a pitch to the N.E."df SO." IHuch taste is exhi- bited by families io; this squafter in the neatness with which they di^ss their dhildi^nj 'wlidse blue or black jsefcets arfe prettily lined at the collar^ with red cloth and ^Inbroidered with Madk or eol- oCired silk. Five ?e North !F«>«^-t/nen the traveller arrives at an exceedingly fitie^fiveafrdhed Bridge built ttf granite, the river bed at this platria,nftui]lity ". Some coloured images in this tem- ple,, in the habilimentsQf-a.ncient dynasties, are very expressiyejra' cavalier sat liie entrance, life size, hav- ing flowiijgcurlSi hat and dress, as nearly aspossible after picfeurea of thejg^- courtiers of ottr Gharles the 2nd's,tiine. Seven l8 W. ,. from , MfigrJ^aen [ is the yillagc of Chirtg-ka-riea of; ^5 families,, and a little further on J)jui-cha pf 1 00, families, _. J^^f&ding-jou), a village of 300 families,4e|oneB^e NiW. from it. A Bridge to cost- :$40,()00 was cpwfiaesqtced over the stream here (between- two, or three iundredfeet acEossj,) in 44 idrig-haen DistricU the beginning of the present year, 1856, andcontrt butionsto it are thankfully received from foreigner as well as native passing; that tvay (14). The contented faceS) the garden Hke country, the absence of beggars, combined with fine weather^ ren- der travellings^ in this part of the route delightful. Five iB W. by S. from Foo-ling-jom is the Toong- Mew a large temple, and near it, low down at the foot of a hill, may be seen^ half a mile from the road, a five storied hexagonal pag6da, white washed^, wherie not decayed and brake away. Two or three Temples^ are to be found at no great distance from a hamlet of 20 families called SMti' chee, at one of which, by a picturesque arched JMng of superior construction, the priests OflPer excellent accomodation to travellers. Tea bushes may be seen here and there on the hills, but not in large numberai One U W. of Shin-^he is Peau-hing-chak a ham- let of 30 families, and Ten IS W. by N. is Lan-pe of 100 families. The river bed, nearly dry excepting^ ' in the rainy season, is very wide here, and is cross- ed to the right bank by a seven arched Bridge of excellent workmanship. One mile from XeiOT-j»e is Si-long-Jcet a village of 100 families, and hence to the Woo-loo-ling Sze (Monastery in. the' gorge) is Two UiV.NM. The pass above the Monastery spoken of is built in with an arched gateway 5 and as the mountain rises on each side of it and farms part of a chain extending for a considerable distance E. and W. the means for keeping the country safe from roving bands are very efficient. At the bottoto of the Ling on the Tvestem.side, in the U'tsein district is the village oiChavo-loong of 100 families, and hy a wide stream runing from the E. N. E. is Lang- hew of 30 families. Hence to the Vbk-Mng Mon- lAtsien Distnct. 45 astery the distance W. by N. is one mile. The number of pilgrims passing this way to the Monasteries on the eastern and western Teen-muh sans, give to the occupation of the priests "the char- acter of Hotel keepeirs. The Szes, Tndeed, should be Galled Caravansaries, not Monasteries. The Vok- Mng Monastery (Carvansera)is a two storied build- ing about a hundred feet square, in the uiidst of a garden of mulberry trees. On the upper floor, the front rooms, with a sor^th -eastern aspect, are in the centre left open for travellers' baggage, whilst each wing contains three large rooms, with stand- ing bed places covered '.with straw for the lower order of travellers, of whom they could accomodate a hundred or soj — musquito curtained beds ( Oh, th& Fleas!) being for the better -class; — the Abbot having a room to himself, and four resident priests another. — The back rooms, commanding a V'iew of the Eastern Teen-muh, are filled with lumber, win- nowing machines and such like farming implements, Below,in the centre, is an open court yard,-the front hall, with an idol or two in it, being given to the* use of devotees; — the back and side rooms to the accomodation x)f guests, as refreshnieut rooms, &c, whilst on the north stands the kitchen, decorated with the bamboo flogger for the refractories upon whomjttdgement has been passed. — Outside, again, is .the bath room, in which travellers, for the cost of the fern that lights the fire, can indulge in the luxury of a hot bath, contrived simply enough in the large iron pan in which the water is boiled;— the fire being lit from the outside. it is customary for the European traveller to give the priests a small present, say half a dollar a night fjr the use of the rooms ;^ — and as the priests are money changel^, giving on the average only 980 46 (I-tsien District* icash for the best of Carolus doUars/some little is ob* tained by them in the way of legitimate business. Of the priests here there is one who has been on the establishment twenty nine years, and from the age of ten served a novitiate often years at one of the Monasteries on the adjacent mountains. Another^ the Guest Chancellor, has been nine years a priest, 6,nd yet so ignorant is he that he cannot write the natne of the Monastery in which he serves. A short distance N. W. of the Fbjfe-Aing' Monastery is a pub» lie cemetery and receptacle for dead children. J*Jot many, however, appear to be deposited in it ;— those "who can afford it burying the remains of their friends under brick tombs. Some of these tombs are large enough for two or three coffins (15). Chi-ting-joio W. N. W. of the Monastery is dis" tant 5 W from it, and boasts of 40 families ; whilst Che-chin g'Way-iloo, 8_U N.W. registers 30 families. / 1 CTii'ling-jaiJB characters painted on the walls point the traveller to the proper roads either to th? eastern or the western Teen-muh, — the rule with . vhinese being directly opposite to that followed by the English in their jSnger posts. The women in this quarter dress their hair modestly, simpiy tying it up behind and confining with a small silver ornament. * The road to the Eastern Teen-muh is very beau- tiful, through groves of lofty firs and shrubbery; — though cultivation here is not so luxuriant as in other parts of the province; nor do the loftier moun- tains bear that profusely studded appearance so characteristic generally of the hill scenery of Che- kiang. Ten le N. by W. from Cke-ching'ioay'loo is the hamlet of Le-chin of 60 families ; and a little further on a comfortable Alonastery or Caravansera called U'tsien District, 4? Lungnisfe-way'MeicqV'i-deo. Aft inteliigent look- tog yoting priest here, a lad of the name of Skeo' ein, appears disposed to give much attention to the foreign visitor j— though, in the Spring of 1857 the writer was the only one he had ever seen. His confreres are similarly attentive, and sinxilarly unsophisticated. Lung-zee-way is only a little distance from the commencementof the ascent of the eastern Teen- muh, the ^vsi Ding on the hill bearing W.N. W. from the foot of the roughly laid path. Four Dings are met between the hill foot and the Monastery at the top, and are placed as follows. From the hill foot the first Ding- is reached in 18 minutes walkings. From XWng' No. 1 to Ding No. 2 the course is about North, andean be reached in 30 minutes. From No. 2. to No 3 the course is about N. and of 23 minutes walking-*-From No. 3 to No. 4 the. course i-=! northerly and westerly,— 25 minutes walking—-' Ding i^o. 4 is the entrance to the Monastery grounds, and is gratefully cool. Neither at t£e first por the ' second jDw^s are there any idols; only at the second there is a tablet bearing the insciption ^^h A (1^) I^wg No 3 has a small idol of Yen-Dah, the god of wealth, sitting on a seal like long tailed anitnal^ and holding for* ward a shoe of tinsel resembling a lump of Sycee. Ding No. 4 is a small temple with a shrine to the god Wei-doe, and attended by a priest who receives his meals from the Monastery above. Besides the Dings there are several conveniently placed stone seats under lofty firs. Should the traveller apprehend thirst gn his way up, he must not neglect to provide himself with liquid before starting, for though cascades are abundant enough within his sight on the opposite side of the gorge and above, 48 U-tsien District. not a dribblet is met until after he has passed the third Ding. Experienced Geologists will decide, perhaps, that the Easteifn Teen-muh and adjacent mountains are of primary,.secondary and tertiary formations The strata, at the base, in layers slightly removed from a dead level, la composed of blue black slatey shafle. At the height of JDing No. 2 the rocks resemble a brown sand stone, quite distinct from the black strata on the opposite side of the glen of similar elevation ; that strata bearing, in places, a pitch of ] 5, in others 50 and even 70 degrees. -Between the Sd and 4th Dings another species of formation is met Avith;— and over it tea is cultivated in patches, with maize, — firs growing to great heights and of considerable girth. On the oppos ite moun- tain, bamboo is the cherished tree ■; not growing \vildly, but regularly planted ; each plot or grove bearing marks, painted with indian ink, to distin- guish it from a neighbour^ stock. Ch^reoal burners do a large biisiness in these region.?, the weights Carried by them ,being far in excess of what would be borne by labourers of western lands. Provided with an iron shod staff to serve two pur- poses, one to help" them up ascents, the other to rest one end of their shoulder stave on without placing both packs on the ground, Chekiang land carriers go over immense distances, and up trying heights, for small remuneration. Passing J9in^ No. 4 through a grove of Fir^ Cypress and Bamboo trees of splendid growth and exubeirance, and still ascending, the traveller rea- ches the Monastery called Chaou-Ming-Sze, an establishment of 50 priest-!, and containing some fine idols ; the three principal ones being lofiy god desses on lotus leaves, concealed, until the hours for worship, by }-ellow silk hangings. There is a U-tsien District. 49 fine brass idol too,, and, singularly, in one of tho upper roomi?, a white porcelain image which the priests call the Goddess of mercy. A cross on the breast, however, and foreign crown, at once stamp it as a "Mary" of Roman Catholic manufacture. To reach the western Teeri'inuh, the road has to be retraced almost as far down the hill as the 1st 'Ding^ until a path, or rather steep flight of steps is met leading to the right, down which the travel- ler proceeds until he reaches first the Monastery called Chom-ming-haen of five priests, and then the village of Tcha-se-achin of 150 families. Here the formation, across a woodland valley, is of red hard sand stone, Near Tcha-se-achin w'lW be found a tomb evident' ly of great antiquity, embosomed in some splendid elm like trees and other shrubbery, enlivened with the antics of squirrels, and the music, a deep clear note, of a very handsome longrtailed bird, to be found only in this region. Five la west o^cha- se-achin we reach the base of a ? harp ascent called Chou-fod-lingi After thirteen minutes walking a small mud hut is reached, and five minutes walking further up the steps, is a Ding., from which there is a, guntle descent W. S. W. to two or three houses. The lower -Strata of this hill is similar to that of the base of the Eastern Teen-muk,viz black slaty shale, in rounded boulders of 20 and 30 feet tTiick — the faces of the hills anghng up as precipitously as 40O- — the strata at an angle of about 5a. From the western base oi Chgiirfop4in,g the ascent for some distance, WIN .W. is not too steep for a chair, until the head of a valley is reached in wbich five vil- lages lie within short distances of each other, the hill^ around being perfect forest wood land. Ke-cha s is a small hamlet often families, a U or so only fro:Ti 50 U-t$im District. Yee-choub-lee.a. village of 150 families; — Yat-tow- Ide again, a fine village of 300 families, being only a quarter of a U or so from Kdn-se-chee of 1^0 families. '; . , The pretty manner in which children dress their hair with natural flowers among these villa- ges is very pleasirig, and the inhabitants, geieral- ly, unused to sight or speech of foreigners, whilst curious are not obtrusive, and are exceedingly kind in their deportment. It is not an unusual thing fpr the foreign traveller in this quarter to be politely as ked to get out of his chair to hclooked af; — . every article of dress and foreign manufacture be- ing scriitinized with prying eyes. To pilfer or cheat appears foreign to their composition; — and loudly indeed may the foreign missionary declaim against opium 'smoking, for, on a cursory gjance at the habits of the 'people, it appears to be the only vice to which they are addicted. Of lewdness, drunken- ness, quarrelsomeness, or any thing but what is pleafeg in the eyes of an impartial lover of his species, nothing is seen ;— nought besides opium . smoking, and a want of cleanliness, is found to re- form but the inclination to idolatry; — and, whilst pitying, the truly charitable can but reflect on the purit yof the source fronar which such propensity proceeds,— the desire to pay homage tothe Supreme Bring a,fter that fashion which progenitors havo taught to be the best. Cleanliness being next to Godliness, Christianity when introduced will be a great boon. Idolafry, then, and the absence of a taste for cleanliness in their domestic arrangements, appear to be the great — almos tthe only — sins wi(;h which Chinese away from towns,have to be taxed;--the indulgence in opi- um smoking being seldom entered on 'till disease, or U^tsien District. 61 — who shall deny it?^ — the desire to drown in forgiet fulness a feeling of hate for the government under which they live — renders it necessary. The road from Kan-serchee is ten feet wide, and is well laid with pebbles and rough stones for three or four le north to a Ding with a sln-ine to the three goddesses ^ioan-i//w ^ 1g^ >^ ^ (' 7) This.Din^ is only a short distance from another sharp ascent ; and chairs are kept for the use of lady devotees, of whom there are many young and old arriving from all parts of this and adjacent provinces. Here, again, in the valley the strata-is of the red brown granite like sand stone spoken of ;— whilst a little way up the hill it is black shale and lime stone. At the top of the ascent called Le-da-ling, there is a one priested Temple, at which pedlar brokers meet to purchase from villa- gers leaves resembling the mulberry leaf in shape, called ^ ^^ Tching-sha-yet (18). 1 hese leaves, suffused in boUing water, yield a pleasant cool- ing drink. In quantities, the dealers obtain them at three cash a tael, or about half a mace a Catty. To preserve them from the effects of the sun, wood cutters in this region wrap the head with blue cotton cloth of. native fabric. ^European manu- factured cloths, blue, white or gray, are not to be seen in this locpility ; and yet there must be much room for them, if there could but be an introduction. Not that for actual durability anything can excel the substantial cottons made, byi the thrifty house wives.— Sold, however, at a price commensurate with ths labour given to them, they are, excepting in scant quantity, above the means of the little earning labourer. Who shall describe the beautiful wood land dell through which the traveller passes from the Le-do- 52 miien IHsMtt. Ling down to tlie great Monastery (the Choey-yen- sz€) at the foot of the Western Teen-muh san? Cypress and i-ir, planted in regular lines over the gre'CTi ' swttrd, or little hills of wheat, are the prin- cipal features. I'he Chdey-yen^sHe' is the most remarkable esta- blishment of its Mhd for many a league around. It was originally fouiid^d.by the priests' account, in the Sung Dynasty (A.©. 420) (18) and will have continually increased' until now it numbers on its foundation four Kundrfed priests aind a hundred laymen. Its "feitnation, within' an a'mphitheatre of wooded mountains, is 'inbst beautiful ', — -and should it at any time be iiecesiafy to fix the head quartei-s of an embas&y, or to fourid a seminary in this locali- ty, by no possibility bdulld a better site be selected. The principal eritrahde of the (Safe faces the south, the depth from the portico to the northern wall beiiig 5/5 feetjwith a me&,ri breadth inthe centre of 4251eetj the corners rounding of with' an easy sweep.- Front- ing the portico is a seihr-^cirbuiar paved area, l221feet wide arid 72 feet deep, bounded by a moat, or ha-ha, beyond which the ground is cultivated as a kitchen garden. Within theehtranee from the front area is a spacious court yardi 70 feet wide by 100 jfeet in depth, with a flight of steps to the reception hall. Thence is another court yard^ about the'same size as the other, but with three flights of steps, lead- ing into atemple of a secondary class ; branching from which, on the west, are dormitories for the better class of guests; and' on the east, the refectories of devotei33 and priests. Bieyond this temple, still proceeding north, is another court yard leading to a capacious; hall,' beyond that again being .another court with a la^ge censer, and then the principal. Temple — a Shrine to the three goddesses Kwan-yin. i^-tsien Dtstrici. 63 In tl e rear of this Temple a verandah, runs across from one side to the other over a length of 220 feet. This verandah fronts several smaller two storied tetnples, fuid altar pieces ; — ^in the rear being another ran we of five temples, with smaller ones behind these aiffHiii, and then a sraallkitchen garden, bounded by the Monastery wail and hedge. This boundary in its whole extent embraces an area of five aiid a half acres of ground. Onthe west side, besides the dormitories spoken of is a fine kit ehen garden^- on the east are buildings of various classes. A gate on the' north east Corner leads into a road way by a perfect street of two storied houses, at the end. of which is the- grand kitchen, a building in which the boilers for rice measure six feet - across, with scoops to remove the food not unlike the ladles used in iron foundries. Adjacent to the cuisine is a large two storied Hall, with an open area a hun- dred feet square, and a Rostrum, intended, appar- ently, for the purpose of ; addressing a multitude. Such a buiIding,.iiow almost altdgether unoccupied, would afford several companies of soldiers the most comfortable quarters. The south eastern quarter of the compound — the eastern sides of the entrance courts mentioned being- twice as wide as the western areas — is variously bestowed ; — Granaries. Winnowing and- Tea^difying RbOms, Garpetiters' yards and- sheds, and general depositories. A gate oh the south eastern corner leads to a water mill, in which the priests grind their flour, and to shops wiere Basket makers, Tailors, Shoe- makers, arid other artizans are employed — large plots of cultivated ground, fish ponds &c. affording satisfactory evidence that in enjoyment of the com- forts of life both priests and attendant laymen are well versed. INot that the priests indulge in ' 54 . V Vi; If-isien DtstncL ■ any thing besities^ food of graim "ajid'vegetaWes ',-^ f but thesci in th^eiT modes of cookery^ are well varied. Maize flouT porridge- or rice, eaten with salt, and yeg6table soupj form the stafdes^ aecompanied by greeriS) fresh- or in partial deeoraposition,. pickled gingerj salad^ beaaas^ arid grated bean- c-ard^ not um- f like parmesailJ cheese both in- taste and? appearance. Vr In Sugar' there' appears to- be little or no' indal- gence; — norj excapting for the- toast of the.maiza porridge from' the pan, do- they seem to> have much -relish for anything like Breadv Of liquids, I'ea^ and the ptisan', Tch^^-ska-yet, mentioned- at page 51, 5" are the principal indulgences ;" — ^^no spirits'-^no' opi- um — no tobacco, nor anything of an oleaginous nature. Asa rule they appear in excellent healfh- and spirits,, and if, as-' hais been stated, they ara burnt to death for infringment of the rules ®f the institution the principal of which' are abstinence from animal food and sensual indul- gence — they' do not' appear- to live in- much- dread _> ©f the sword that? hangs- over therai Nor have they } need, as it is competent for any of these- priests of i Buddha to give Up their vocation and' i'eturn to tiro World as soon m they feel dissatisfaction with the restraints imposed. We might have supposed- tha* in a service requir- ing' some asceticism, and- the display of peculiar talent td fit the superiors foe the- positions to y of Faii-,si.ng-h'j Ching-ko-way — Fau-sing- ko Chhig-ko-waye o,i,8ova?! feucli words. -"* The Temple of the three goddesses at the Choey-yeii-size., aiul the services ' performed in it, will he found highly pleasing to the qiiiet ob- server ,— especially shou'd the hour of service be near suri«et, or before the bj'eak ijf day^ when the subdued light from a couple of.dozfen of candles, all at an equal altitude abjut eight feet^ from the ground, aiid ranged in lines around the sraokened hall, or at the altar piece, gives n peculiar mellow expry pay adoration to images of wood and'^stoiie lijl rcj'ly that the spirit they address is one and the same with the Being worshipped by men of western lands ;-^hut that western men, having more power of mind, are better able to realize the divinity than thems"lves and others of their country men, who require a visible representation of their god, else it is not in their power to confine their thoughts, and express their devotion with pro-- per effect. \As before stated, these priests, for the most part, are unlettered men, and, in nine cases out often, will inform' the enquirer that their rea- son for becoming priests was a want 'of the means of existence. Occasion ly, however, a child is born under the star ofa particular spirit and) the parents tl-tsien District. 67 \ afe directed by astrologers to devote the youtli to his service ;— ^an injunction to be evaded only, by the enllstilient of a substitute— ^male, or female. 1 n proportion to the male servers, the number of nuns throughout the etnpire, ia very iiiconsiderable (2 1). Attached to the Choey-yen-sze are some 240 fecres (1400 mow) of land, and in the value of the timber on the domain, alone^ *the establishment is rich. When spoken to of the rebellion going on in adjacent provinces, and of the fears that must be entertained for the continuance of their order, but little irom which an opinion can be formed is given by the priests in reply; — they are passive on the subject, and patierttly await, the coming of what, in their opinion^ appears to be inevitable-^a rev olution throtighotit-the country. Conveniently blind though they be, they are not so bigotted as to be ignorknt of the fact that the religion, or rather the mummery they practise is entirely unworthy the light of reason. ■ , / At the top of the gorge N.N.W. from the Ghoey- yen-sze is another Monastery of thirty priests, a building which, though no older in establishment thanthegrander one below, is not particularly sub- stantial in appearance, being constructed of wood principaiJy. - On the way to it, and immediately in the rear of the north wall of the Choey-yen-sze, is a pleasaat summer house ; and a quarter of an hour's walfe further on, on the left, is the small building or Cremating house in which the bodies of deceased priestaare burnt to ashes. It is a small hexagon of eight feet sides, and similar height, with a coved roof> alY built of brick, .When Buddhism was practised with more strictness then it now appears to be, the legend runs that priests disobedient to the rules of the order were burnt alive here 5— bdt such deeds have not occurred within the present century. -^ 1$ U-fsiep. Bistf^ct^ Half an hour's ■vmlk from the Monastery, J^avci^ ling in chairs is no longer possible for tbtp ntial© adul;tj.r-:r-thpiiigh' small footed old ladies and unused- to-travellpg Chinese teachers, with heads insensible to giddiness from the peculiar swinging motioia im- parted by the bearers to chairs when ascending heightSj do manage to keep ^helr seat? with^ijt flinching. The firit Ding from the comjaaence-- ment of the ascent is reacfeed in aboat seven min- utes, and eight minutes walking further on brings the traveller within view of the snaall temple at the entrance of the Sze-tze-how^ or Gaiveof the Lion's mouth. The st^at^ at this height is ^of the red brown hard sand sjtone before apoken of. Few or no birds or animals are to be seen in this quarter j^ indeed, throughout the province^ the brute creation is sparse ;-^the necessities of the people; perhaps, inducing them to destroy and use for food all ti^ (pflro crossing their path. . Seventeen minutes walking from the first brings; the traveller to the second resting house, oaUed the Ping-sang-Ding. In neither of thege j0mf,s are there idols, pictures, or tablets, — the vicinity of so much priestly sanctity being -quiet sufficient for the :qative wayfarer apparently ^-^^apilegiws to; the old Hng^ish, sayi^gf,rrr"the nearer the JGfeurch the farther from the Qivijiuty.''' Five minutes' walk frornthe sepond Ding are thie. qu-arters of a priest whose maiii occupati,on. appears to be that of keep- ing the kettle or rather kettles boiling to supply passers by with wai^m tea. Here too can be obtain-, ed for a tew cash^ sweet cakes,, dates j ground nutsi The contrivance^ for keeping kettles away from or close to the fires, which are usually made oC charcoal in large iron pans placed on trussels, is, '(/•tsien Distrwi. 59 Hiost ingenious. A hollow baHttboo, four or five feet long, is suspended frota the ceiling, and a rod with a crooked end, on which hang the kettles, is placed within it. and kept u,p or down by a small bamboo spoon shaped stopper attached to the upper bamboo ^ a string; the angling of this Stopper, through TWhich the crook stick rifns,^aving the effect of keeping it at \Fhatever altitu * the cook wishes. Chinese say that good tea caJQ only be made with the purest hill spring water; and here, fit this little cot, the purity of the waterj which is led through a hollow bamboo direct from the rill to the kitchen, certainly produces-a beverage such as connoisseurs would pronounce exquisite. Some of the tea ob- tained ^t the way side dings is as different froin the iea. Europeen-ne As can well be imagined. If an tnglishman's mode of giving it a similitude can be realized, — it is the'flavoar, imaginary of course, of "buttered cowslips." So proud are the Chinese of 'their hill water tea, that throughout the country it is not uncommon to see sign boards announcing the fact that good " san suey " hill water, can be had within, — in the same way that Tavern keep- ers at home advertise their Burton ale, Devonshire cider, and Dublin stout. It takes upwards of 20 minutes to walk from the Tea Dingy or Teniple as it should be called, there heio^ a small idol within it,^ to the point where the road branches off to the S^W. ; and if, instead of going on, the traveller sends on his chair to vj^ait for him at the top, and then himself proceeds along this soil' western path, he reaches, in about seven minutes, the very celebrated mausoleum of a priest whpse remains were interred beneath it so many centuries ago that tradition is faulty with the record. Here reside two priests, their cot or 60 (f-tsien' District. perch being on such a narrow ledge that to reacfii the tomb the traveller has to pass through the house itself (22)- Since Dr Medhurst's visit to this place in 1854, several Gentlemen from Shanghae have Jeft their names in Indian ink on the ekternal wall of t^ mausoleum. * The rock here again/ a grey granite^ is quite dif-^ ferent from the strata lower down,. The mauso- leum measures 1 3 feet & inches in diameter, and is built of square blocks.of stone in a dome„ the crown of which is about three feet aWove the spire of the tomb. The base of this tomb, a hexagon of two and three quarters feet wide sides, and three feet high, decorated with antique sculp- ture in relief, is constructed oft;hered sand stone spoken of, surmounted by a plastered cone, four feet high, and ^within which, it is presumed, is the honoured urn. — Pilgrims from afar immediately on reaching th6 entrance, or arch way, six-feet high, prostrjate themselves, and render as nvuch homage as the most devoted Catholic would give to Corpus- Christi. The paved floor sounds hollow; — be- neath it, perhaps, is another cave. Without the entrance is the following inscription ^ § il^ (23-). *ren minutes walk from (he; mausoleum in an easterly direction, brings the traveller to the Woh- mai-mew, a Temple for the departed spirits- of seven respected priests, for whom there are hexagonal columns 6 feet high, the centre one 7 feet, the * Messrs. Butt and Coirtts, and Aiteheson and Points, in May 1 855, and ^haw and Francis in the June following. 1856 recori^- ed np visitor there; — and in 1 857 ihe writer was the first on recofii to approach it from the south. U-tsien District. CI tablets of the .honored ones beuig Ickcked up in the plinths Two or: three minutes walk farther on is another temple, with an idol in front of a tomb as ancient as that just described. Some very fine firs are to be seen here ; one by the Woh-mai- wicw, at five feet above the soil, measuring 231 feet io girth, the spreading base covering space enough tQ give a table-lop ten feet square. A Plant ii this locality emits a peculiar gas-like scent, so strong . that it is unpleasant. Here among the peaks, uninterrupted ewen by the chirp of birds, the silence in a stilly day is most solemn, the rustle of leaves and the silent dripping of water being the oply sounds.— Between the temple last mentioiie.l and fi few minutes further walk' to the monastery, the traveller passes several monumental relics, and will pause on the edge of some cliffs to take a com- prehensive gaze at the scenery beneath ;.far in liie distance running a chain of rrjountains from E. by N. to West by South apparently — the proportion of valley to mountain seeming less than ono to ten — the Choey-pen-sze, in full proportion below, bear- ing S. S. E.. Three goddesses seated on. lotus leaves are alsQ the favoured divinities at the upper Teen-muh sze, or mmastery on the western mountain ; but after seeingso,much of Bhiiddism at thegrander establish- ment just left, there, is no great attraction in the services, and the traveller turns his observation to the devotees, from great distances, continunliy arriv- ing, resting for the n'ght a,nd then procesding to one or .other of the more important shrines. These pilgrims are gener.dly dressed in new clothes, and wear hats ]8rhich foreigners in the south of China are accustomed to call mandarin caps— but which^ in the north, decorated with a gilt button or othec 62 U-tsien District. wise, are worn on ivhat may oalled state occasion^ —such as worshipping at the tombs of ancestors, on pilgrimages to temple, or other superstitious performances. A good walker can reach the top of the western Teen-muh-san in about 50 minutes from the mon- as(ery; but it,is a tiresome ascent, and,, unless the day is clear, hardly repays the labour it costs. The ground sounds hollow to the feet, — the pfi*h being laid with rough-slabs of the hill strata. On the top of the mountain is what is termed the cave — a coHection of large roclcs on end, or across, a-la Stoiielenge. — One of these is a slab of about 12 feet long and five feet wide, length ways, and resting on a fough upright, so formmg a square aperture not unlike a door way. — ^"!his is the cave. From this point, about a mile and a quarter above the Sea, the vallies bf'low app^^ar to diverge like streams from a common centre (24). After leaving the oJd Monastery the roughly laid path takes up and away to the southward and west- ward — the 'huge mountain being literally skirtgd round for a distance of about seven miles, when, with the cave crowned peak bearing t ast, the read runs down a precipitous flight of steps to the N. N. VV , ascending as sharply to> an ai^ched Ding on a road side opposite. In some part^ of the . road, before it branches off as descirbed, the side of the mountain is so. nearly perpendicular that travel- ling in a chair is out of the question to any one keeping his eyes open. And here (singular cir- cumstance foB the province of Che-kiang,) the hand of man has nought to do with the growth of the straggling bru^h vroodand wild grassy left to luxuriate, die, and grow again vvithout interference. About five miles frosn the Monastery, at a poiaL I^ing-kiDoh District. 63 where the mountain top bears about E.SiE., a path will be seen entering from the road, which, if follow- ed, leads to the summit by an easier way apparent- ly than that entering nearer the Monastery. from the arched Ding to Tm-ye-wan-Ung, the boundary of the Di^tticts Uisien and Haoufnng m Che-Kiangi and the border of Khig-Tmoh in An- vshuy, the distance, up a tiresomie ascent in a N. ^ .W. ly direction, is some five IS. From this point to Ning-'hwok-foo, the chief city of the province of Anwhui, the distance is said to be 220 le westerly— the nearest Custom House Pass beitig Tsien-suen- ling (25). PROVINCE OF ANWHUY DEPARTMENT OF NING-KWpH. From Tai'ye-wan'ting to Tm-ckew-fong-ling the general course is about west ; but the travelling is all mountainous, down one ascent and up another, through ronaantic glena and across baPFen hill sides, ^harp pitches alnd no flag stones, for a distance b£ about eight miles'. At the Tai-cheu-fong-ling the road breaks off from the direct course to the town of Kwang-fuh-tze, or Kwang-fuzzy^ as it is called by the natives, afud runs through some beautifully cul- tivated woodland country, along the ridges of hills towards iye-5an-g^ their principle and new. to the Chinese ;the sentences are somewhnt*tautqlogical, to an extent that w>ttld oot bie tolerated ia E^gUsh oomposittoa, but the ssen- tiflfteats are congenial to ev,ery riight fejeliog. The «fiter.ih?gi(is by denpiunciog narrowness of mind, as eshihited in loca>l likes iind disUke?, and after ringing the chan- ges on tbJ9 subject throughl A page or two, he proceeds to tell us that tJuBi ancient sages 9if ()\am tipade no diSerence between one co.u.ntipy laad another, but viewed (>il alike. Having sufii- cie®tl;y iiU«strat.ecl these points, he fell «is that God is the uni- versal Father, that China and foreign nations are all equally uaierhj^fHle^nd that, all men are brethren. After quoting a passage fno^m Confucius, illustrative pf a happy state of society, said to h»vp prevailed in hisdays, the writer laments that " now, such .a.iSiaAe Q'f, society is hardly te.be looked for; nevertheless vthen diserdgr is at its ntm,ost h?»gbt) ^rder is sometimes elicited, and Ihe unfeeling world is occasionally rendered loving." 'FJitea^^tld prose production begins with the statement thac all men iH^e one origin, both a? it regards their bodies, beir^ Ning-hooh District. 69 sprung- from one ancestor ; and as it regards their soulsj which have all come from the original breath of God ; thus all under heaven belong to one family, and should all regard each other as brethen'. The writer then goes on to combat the erroneous notion current in Ohina,' that the king of Hades determined life and death : this king of Hades, he says, is no other than the old ser- pent, the Devil.* He then lays down a method by which men may judge of the correctness of principles, and avers that those which are difiu^ed through all ages and countries are generally right, while partial and private views are to be suspected : but the principle above stated he adds is found neither in Ohinese nor foreign classics, but in the Buddhist and Taouist books an J there- fore concludes that it must be wrong; This is not the first timej he continues, that lies have been invented in Ohina : for the ruler of the Tsin dynasty imagined the existence of fairies; Kwang- woo, of the Han dynasty, sacrificed to the kitchen ; people of later ages pretended that the dragdn produced rain ; whereas rain, it was evident came directly from heaven. Then we have some references to the Old Testament, about the forty days rain in tne time of Noah, causing the flood ; which rain was sent down by God as fi judgment upon a guilty world. t He goes on to say, that a Buddhist book called the " pearly Record " also ascribes the power of life and death to the king of Hades ; but the clas- sics of China arid foreign nations, he avers, all say that Heaven produced and nourished every thing, and that life and death are determined by fate, which is nothing else than the appoint- ment of God. This appeal to foreign (by which is meant Chris- tian) classics, as an authority in matters of faith, is a new thing in Ohina : as is also the allusion to the ^ ^j shin-pwan judg- ment, which God will enter into with the men of the world. The writer goes on to state, that because men aspire after longevity, and pant for good fortune, that therefore they are thus • The phrase employed for expressing this latter idea is very similar to the one used'iii Medharat's arid Gufilaff's versions of the New Testament, as may be seen by comparing them. Med's. ""^ °°' '° Morrison and Afii, wlio employed ^^ ^g No-a. In the mode of expressing the 40 days and 40 nights, the writer agrees more tritU the Morrison than Gutzlaff. So that he most have had both versions before him, or quoted by memory occasionally from one and the oth«, as he happened to recollect. 70 Ning-kwoh District. prone to believe lies. Thus errors creep in. and get possession of men's minds, and though God successively produces wise and holy men, to convey the truth to others, they will not lend an ear. Hence men, he says, are be wildered.and ignorant of God, they arc also stouthearted and do not fear him. If their descen- dants wish to get some knowledge of the truth, they do not know where to obtain it. Then follow some beautiful and correct statements regarding God, which we are tempted to exhiliit in a condensed form. "Taking a general view of the world, we find that men though numerous are all created and supported by God ; for every article of food and clothing they must depend on God, who is the universal Father of. all mankind. Life and death, happiness and misery are all determined by him. When I look up to heaven, I perceive that the sun and moon, stars and planets, the thunder and rain, wind and clouds, are all the wondrous eflfects of his mighty power : when I survey the earth, I perceive that the hills and fountains, rivers and lakes, birds and beasts, plants and fishes, are all the marvellous productions! of his mighty energies :" for this every man and women through- out the world, ought every morning to worship and every even^ ing to adore him. The writer then meets an objection, that though Gtod is to be acknowledged as the sovereign of all, yet ha must have various, ministers to aid him in protecting mankind. To which he an^ swers, that should such exist, they must all be appointed by God : but who ever heard of his appointing the idols which men are. in the habit of worshipping ? The writer continues,' that God did, at the creation, appoitit angels X '«> do his vvill; and if so^ there is no need of idols, who are mere monstrosities, invested by mortals, in defiance of bis authority. The author then takes up the same ground which a Christian missionary would assume in arguing image-worship in the ten commandments. According to the Old Testament, he says, God in former ages descended on Mount Sinai, and gave forth the ten commandments, written wiih his own hand on tables of stone ; and with an audible voice commanded Moses, saying, 'I am the Lord God : thou shall not set up the image of any thing in heaven or earth, to bow down to it and worship it ■,' now your setting up images and worship- ping them is a direct violation of the Divine conunand. ^ i The word Jp^ ^^ »hin she, fbr angel, is aOer Morrison aad Afe ; Gutzlaff employs ^^ , W^ t'heen she. S The characters Dsed for expressing Sinai, are ^y ^^ Se nae, which, ftto identical with those employed in MeJhnrsi's and GutzlafTs version oCtbs^ Tiing-ktDoh District. 71 He further argues, that since God has forbidden the worship of images, these could not be employed in assisting him in protect- ing mankind : and if God could make the world without their aid, he could surely preserve the world in existence without any assistance. The writer then states, in a way peculiarly Chinese, that God has made the, ground on which we stand, and the food we eat ; he also gives us sun and rain ; deprived of his aid, we could not live a single moment; why then should we pray to idolsi He then supposes an objector saying, ' but my idol is effir cacious.' And says, in reply, that all our blessings come from the great Gcd, while men erroneously suppose that they come frcm some corrupt devil. The associating with such, he con- tinues, is not only an outrage against Heaven, but an offence ae;ainst natural conscience, showing that the persons so acting are rebellious both against reason and religion. He then incuir cates the duty of praying to the universal Father ; and brings forward the promise of the Saviour, as an encouragement to its performance : quoting the well known passage contained in Mat- thew 7 : 7. " ask and it shall be given yon,',' «kc; It is Worthy of observafion, thatin this quotation, the writer has ce pied almost exactly the versi&n of Medhorst and Gutzlaff, published in 1835, the resemblances being nearly identical, as follows : — Med. 4- Gutz, vert. Insurgents.' vers. :|=n^ ^ ^ ^ 5^ ?^ mm f^m m wimn mmn mmz mzz After having exhorted his readers to pray to our heavenly Father, he points out the folly of addressing such applications to idols, quoting from Psalms 115 : 6, in which he imitates, in some degree, both Morrison's and Gutzlaff's version, with only a little transposition and omission, resulting probably from his hav- ing quoted from memory. _ , ■ . J , The writer then goes on to point out the way m which idola- try sprang up in China. From the earliest antiquity, he says, New Testament: while in Momiop's former edition, and Gutzlaff's more recent edition of the Old Testament, ffi 7^ Se:nae are ertplojed. The word osed for ^tten M ehen, is found in Gutzlaff's, but in none other of The Lmer versions. TTphxase - 1 am the Lord Goa," W very sumlat to th« we eniploywl ^7 Cfu*?laff- 7S, Nihg-Moh JDistYiht* doi»h to the tiio^e'tthifethiTe^ dynk^Si (B. O. 220) both princes and pebplte geih6M\y wor 6hij)p6d; Q^.' Sbriie ihrid^atiohis had^ however, spY liiig tip tWb thbtfsarid fSitni pi'eViously, when the KeW Le hiimied iA iavil spiHts,^fa({ 'ddliriipt^d th6 tHBd^ of Meay oil, who alr6 icfcbUhtfed thettbofigiijefe^oif Chiira. || Gbrrnptioris had crept iii, k\So^ aibHiii a thousjah3';^eir^ afterwards,' when men %ere emplbyefd tbrep^e^sent the ghost df the departed ; but during all this peridd', aiicbf^in^ lo this' Wfite¥, the mass of the peb[jlfe ccnltinued tb'b^ liibiiotheists; a6 at ihe first. As we approach the Ohristiail etk^ a ^updrstitious ireg&'rd' fo^ ghosts and hobgoblins increased, atd' th^' sea was Ibbk^d Mpa ih.i dbode of the genii. This led to in ihtferfereh'cd with me previous nionbtheistic prac- tice, ahd' otoof the rulers' of thd, ' Hinl dynasty erred egregf- ously, in stlppbiing' that the foiii? i^a'ttelr^ i*ith the centre of the world were eabh under the dbmirtf- ri^bje. principle? of e ■■, Ning-hiffoh District. '73 from bad to *\'orse, according to our author, when nwuy„on^ of the emperors of the Sung dynasty, changed the name which had been used for God into one oscd tot'esignate an imaginary deity. This alteration of the venerablte name of God is looked upon bv our author as displaying a great want of reverence towards himj'^ir and he~ proceeds to trace the'subesquent misfortunes which came upon the emperor Hwuy, and his son, to this source. In con- sequence of (ill these corruptions having crept in,our author says it is not to be wondered at that the Chinese should be now "so ignorant of Grod, and destitute of -his fear. Some reformers, he says, have occasionally sprung up,, but the remedies applied were only partial : though idolatry was in some instances put don n, in the majority of cases it was allowed to go on. Whereas, according to liim, all these genii and fairies, superhuman and monstrous appearancies, together with these im- pure rites and forbidden sacrifices, should have been discontinu- ed ; on the ground that besides the great God there is no spirit entitled to such honour as"the,Ohinese have been accustomed to pay them.** All the images of vi'ood and stone, which have been set up to represent these imaginary beings, are mere inven- ti ns of men, otherwise intelligent, who hav'e allowed themselves IT Thi; change in' the name of God, which excites so much the wrath of our author, is simply an alteration from the usual form SAang-te into Yuh-te : the former designation had l>een the name which was ar>| lied to God by the Ohifiese from time immemorial, and the lalter was a name invented by the Taoii sect, and used several hundred years before the litne of Hwuy to designate an idol. After having spoken of changing the appellation, ching, oi thegreatGod. our author, in recurring to the subject, and in order to show his reverence for the Deity, says, th.it his honourable name (tsun haou) was changed.' The phrase tsun hairu in certain connections may perhaps be ren- dered a title of honour. But here the' meaning evidently is "honorable name.' ' We have a similar expression in the Three Character Classic of the Insur- gents, where the phrase is inverted, but conveys the same meaning ; "Aami tsun tsung, his name is most honourable." It is not correct therefore to say, that the insurgents have indicated the fact that they use- Hwang S/uiug-le - as a title of honour. They have indicated no such fact : but they have used Hwang Shang-te, Shang-te and Tc, precisely in the sam'e way in which we use the word God. -In GutzlafT's version of Genesis, a portion of which they have reprinted, Sfaang-te is used as a translation of Elohim ; in their version of the ten commandments, the insu(-e close our list by showitfg in how many cases the vyqrd Shin is used far angel, genii, and Spirits. ' ' . ' , I. — Instances in which Shang-te and* ■- its cognates have been used for God, — . " Times. . Shang-te used for God by way of emi- nence, som'etimes accompanied with the statement -ihu Shang-te is -one, arid that there is no other Shang-te but this one, _._ _ _ „ 175 Hwang Shang-te do do. S*?! Te * do. ' do. n T'heen-te , do. ' do. 2 T'heen do, do. 100 T'heen-foo do. do. 1&4 Hwang-t'heen do. da. ij JSing-Jcwoh District 75 • Hwang-t'heen Shang-te do. do. r- •'• i ^ HaoS-t'heen do. do. •> ■ 2 T'heen-kung do, do. tB, ,' 1 '& ■ ". 865 _ .vji n.— Instances in which Shin is used fg^God", j ^ or gods : — Shin used for God, or the Supreme Spirit, - - -. 4 Shin used for others hesides the Supreme, 2 '■. Ohin shin, for the true God, or Spirit,- -^ - _ 18 • ,/ Seay-shin, for depraved gods, or spirits,- U i, ■ .. '• _ 38 -^. ., Ill— t'ases in which other terms are employed -v' for the Lord of all : — ' '''■'' J- Skang-choo, used for Lord,-«- - — — 52 Choo-tsae do. ._-_-> — ____2 Jehovah, — — — ~ 1 Hwa-kung, creator,' - — -_~ 1 ■' ., ^ 56 IV. — Cases in which Shin is ijsed for spirit, or 'enters into composition to express angel, genii, &c. ; — Shin, used for the Spirit of God, 2 Shing Shin fung. Holy Spirit, in which Shing, stands for holy, and Shin-fung for spirit, - — 4 Tsmg-shin for animaP spirit, — ~--- 2, Shin-tseih,. traces of spiritual beings, used in the sense of miracles, --_- '■ - ■ ^ Shin-seen, genii, 8 Shin-she angels — _-_~o Bhin-chow, regiotf of spirits, name for China in opposition to Kwei-fang, land of devils, used for Tartary, _-- !,.__---- 4 Shin.yay, spiritual father, coupled with Hwan-foo, ghostly father, 3 We have" observed elsewhere, that the example of the insur- gents is of little value as philological argument, because they borrowed their religions terms, as they did, their views of doc- trine, mainly from the foreigners who preceded thera. Their pracliee, however, shows to what class of terras they felt most . inclined ; and from this we find that they empFoyed Shang-te and its cognates for God by way of eminence, in almost every- i-nstancev This is indeed the rule observed in their books, while the use of jiim, in the same sense, is the exception. W.H.M. 76; NiMg,-lmah Mislrict. Froim Toong-'haeh to Kbo-he-qui-show^ a snaalt' hamlet in a north-eapterly direction the distance ia about four miles. . Before reaching this hamlet^ however-, the trayeller crosses from the AnwJiui into the Ghekiang^^pT(yv'iacQ again, by the K&ort-foo- Icwari, or Confucian paSSr— a goygaabostt sixty yards across, with a broad military eaxuBevray, thirty feet wide, hping, on one side, a grasitef built arched gateway, through which, with determined soldiers for its maintenance, a passage; could not easily be forced (26). For good distances- each side of the pass the valley is narrow afttd capable of affording tentage accomodation for as many troops'as would bS requisite either: in defence, qr assault. On the An- whuyjmi&Q£ the pass is a small temple dedicated to Confucius, and^ rarely seerfc, a small gilt image of the honoured Sage, to which homage is paid as to a god. - _. PRaVINCE aF KIANG-SIU DEPARTJWTEJVT OF HaO-CHOW, A short' distance, from Koo-hoo-qui-show is Wei- zhong a hamlet' of 100 families, and some two or three miles, further, on is Pek-ling-wo, a little dis- tance from C%aowf-*fej«^ St hamlet of 90 families. Lirn^ stone is the formation here, the rock out of which the. path way is, cut being asr black and glossy 88 coal. ^ ' - Timbar is transported in raft m. large quantities from this region ;, — ^pales sueh as would be used for^ scaffolding, being sold Sit the streara's edge for as low a c^te aa^ 5^0! cash a pecul — ^ay two pence per hundred weight ! Sialt; the article brought in ffaou-foong District. 77 barter for the wood, costs, duty paid, 70 cash a i*»tty^say three pence per pound ! • From Ckoong-ching to Kow-jow, where, as the name imphes, there is a high, bridge, (curved granite slabs) of very good workmanship, the distance, in a north-easterly direction, is over five le, and fromKow-jow to Chongchtien a village of 200 fami- lies it is also five le. But there is ilo need for giving the particular course from village to village on the route from the Confucian pass to Haau-foong- yuen, the chief city of the district entered on after leavjng the Province of Anwhuy, the general direc- tion being about E. N. E. — for the most part over paved rq^ds and a level country, and by the beds of streams increasing in size as they progress from their sources around the Teen-muh-san. From Chong-chuen to Toh-san, a village of 150 families, the distance due East is 5 le — Amoo a village of 100 famihes being a little way beyond it. But these villages, and those of Cow-ha-hai of 150 families, Cheong-le of 80 families, Mo-sah of 50 families, and Tongchin of 100 families, are all at little distances from each other. In a N.IV.Wly direction from Cow-ka-hai, distant about five miles, is a curious finger shaped rock, standing erect and apart from the mountain adjacent. The ladies in this quarter wear pretty red serge gaiters, the serge being almost the only specimen of European manufacture to be seen in this part of the interior. Approaching Seen-hing-ling-sze, the quarters of two or three priests, an artist, with time for the work, will find a most interesting picture — Cliff's, cottages, pagodas and streams in sweet variety — and, if required, a room for a day or two without much incovenienco to the Hozhangs (priests). Foong-sa-ven and Low-chee — the latter a village 78 Haou-foong District, of a hundred families, the other;the residence of tw©' or three only, are but little distances beyond Ton^ chin, 'lea Bushes are agi^in seen in this locality, and proceeding onwards over a wid^ ford, and, through a walled lane, for about five Ze, the travelr ■ ler arrives at a shrine to the Dragon God, close by which*in the grove by itself, is a small perm'inent Theatre of varnished wood. At Low-zhah-hong -a village of 300 families, the countny takes quite a level appearance, the hills each side, becoming smaller and smaller as though they formed the end of a huge chain (27) — Leang-zah-youof some 20 families, Toong-djean of 1000, and Yah-hong-djow by a plank and trussel bridge of 21 apertiires — say 250 feet long — are all at no great , distance fronj the Low-zhak-kong mentioned.— The Strata in thie quarter is of a blue black slate. From Yah-Icong-jow to Sac^wan-lee, a hamlet of 21) families, the distance, over eight IS, runs through a fine wood land, quite different from any thing the other side of the mountain range Some time before reaching Sac-ioan-le a seven storied Pagoda S.B. of the city of Haoufoong meets the view; and in the suburbs of the city are the best quarters for the foreign traveller (poor. enough' )•) at the Kwan-fi-mew, or Temple of the God of War. Haou^foong, or Skaou-foongr-yubn is a poor apology for a walled city ,t— the walls, about a mile and a half round, being in some places broken away wide enough for a carriage and pair to be driven through. It was a decent place enough once,^ per- haps, and the city Temple on a level with the top of the south wall is a fine building. The shops in the western suburbs, however, fur surpass those withih ; but it is a poor place for business, this being infelred from the want of silver in negotiations; — Ane^ee District. 79 Money changers having the conscience to offer 600 ; cash only for the mosit beautiAil Carolus dpH^r ever haudled-r-gOO cash in barter for Riee being an exteme price (28). There is a junction of two wide though shallow streams on the S.E. angle -of the city, a well peb- bled road from the north gate leading by a large parade ground to a long plank and trussel Bi'idge, which the traveller crosses to the stream's right bank — The low ground hereabout is profu,sely studded with mulberry trees— Firs and elms, in clumps here iand there, .varying the scene. About four miles N*^- from Haou-foong is Ypji,- chong a small village — and Eight le further on Tow-foo, a bvisy little pl^ce of 200 families. The river appears deep here, and there is a good deal of traffic by baniboo rafts and boats of .shallow draft ; —but the average depth is but little over three ieet, as found at a ferry a little further on. A short dis- tance from Tgng-'foa is Tow-foo and not-th of that Sze-Doug-^^l^. N. E., again being the small hamlet of Se-tch6-sah. Here tiie river is crossed in ferry boats from the Haou-foong to the Gnan^keih, or as it is locally pronounced Ane-chee District,- — the first small village on the Ane-chee side being Che- che^s^h, a small place in a grove near fields of tea bushes over wheat. Chu-ho-lo of two or three houses is N.E. about one mile from Che-che-sah — ^and a little further on Ho- foo-loong oi similar size. Ing-ka-loong is the next village, and after that Sae-a-san, both of them exhibiting a good many tidy looking houses— 'the winding streams among the wood land giving a picturesque character to the route— the flat slab-' bed and pebbled path way being in excellent cqndi- tion. From Sac-a-san to a Ding a short distance 80 AniB-ehee District. from Saii-qua-lee the road takes a sharpish ascent for a little distance over steps cut out of the rocfc • Sian-qua-lee i» a village of ISO families about 10 le from Chung-chow-chunet a hamlet in the suburbs of the district city of Ane-chee, Ane-chee is not much larger than Haou-foongy but the walls are in better condition, and there are no such wide gaps in them as those told of. The gates are small, not over seven feet square, the houses built principally of wood. But -more than half the enclosure is covered with mulberry trees a;nd large pools of water; and the traveller feels repeatedly induced fo put the question— '^ What on earth can be the use of these walled cities ?" Caro- lus dollars change for 950 cash here, and ten cash pieces are current. On the East side, the city is skirted by the River bed, and beyond the river is a pretty little Pagoda low down among some Shrubbery. A moat runs found the city on the sides not protected; by the river ; — a well constructed arched Bridge by the south gate leading into the suburbs, about the best part of the place as usual. The North wa!l has recently been repaired, and looks quite formid able to travellers approaching in that direction. Only four villages are met between Ane-chee and Mai- chee, a distance of about eight miles, viz- Kwong- heen^kang-deo^—Zan-woo-JMng — Shew-koon and Kow-jow-Deo. At Zan-woo five miles from Maichee, Tanal's lead off from the main stream, and run up in a N.Wly direction to the Tae-hoo, or great Lake, and boats can be hired here to take the traveller on there if he wishes. iRFai-cAec, though called a village oTily„ appears to be a place of considerable traffic, and two Government tuiictionarics, one of them a Mili- Ane-chee Dtstrict. 81 tary, one a Civil officer havo their quarters here (29). There are upwards of, 1,000 families in the place, and there must he a large migratory population of raft mfen from the hills, and boat men engaged in the Hoo^how Trade. From Mai'chee to the Ferry at which Boats can be obtained for the passage to Hoo- chow, the distance is abont seven Ze— the head boat man of the place being of the family name of Tono- ( Teng^Seeii'Sang), ' The distance from iNlai-chee Ferry to Hoo-chow is said to be 90 le. It is in excess of this, but the chan- nel, from 50 to 200 feet wide, winds a good deal — S.S.E.— E.S E.— N.E.-.-.R S. E.— S. E. E.N.E. and East,- all being noted within a three hours' run, the general direction being due East. Thirty fe from Hoo-chowis Yuen-t0ng'J0to — ^Ten Ze east of which is Ne-cha-tieng — and as far farther on. Yah-co- chaong ; the ground on both sides, a continued level, being cultivated in the proper season with Indian wheat ;— Mulberry trees luxuriating in all directions. ' At Hoo-ehow the stream deepens, and Junks of three and four hundred tons burthen discharge their! cargoes close to the banks. — But though of such twnflage, these vessels are flat bottometl, and do not draw aj the outside more then six feet of water, Hothichow^ the Foo or Chief city of the depart- ment, is a place of considerable importance, and judging from the busy habits of the people, no doubt a desirable abode. Jt is from Hoo-chow tHIit much of the Silk for the Shangliae market is 'taken, though little of the * mamafacture of it within the walls is seen. Wide and- deep canals run through the city, crossed in various places by handsotne and capacious bridges* The walls, which 'are in veiy excellent condition, 30 feet wide and 20 feet high, are upwards of six miles in circuit, and from the 8t "Mi-dziii^ District numbering and .allotment of the lofty basttleiaieritf into sections, it does not appear likely t|iat/ the pla^e wonld be found unprepared should a visit be paid to it by the expected rebels. FHlb on; the sdiithsof the city are crowned with d(,'fensible barracks 5 and M hilst these remained in the hands of the city's hol- ders would prevent succeFsful assault in that direct tioii. On the other hand, if in the possession of asrailant«, attempt at defence woiald be unavailijag^ A lofty seven storied PagodA on a, hill south of the city commands, in a etear day, a view of tihe Tae* hoo, or great Lake* an-d the country adjacertt. Ve3?y much of the iirterior of the City is. unbuilt on< tar appropriated fbr, ardhery groundsn— r*-Aji aveHHe,neag^ the south gate is lined with »pwaTid» of a dozeD Memorial columns, of finished anticjue worJsman- Ship , . ' • .; At Hoo-ehow and t&e country near are mi^unfa'o tories of the Japajn varnish used ia the- Sflwath. s A kndwledge of tHis preparation w;ould bepfjze^'i'* Europe, and, with time and opportonity, a skilful inquirer might obtalm some li^erfdl iaD&r imvtioiDsef. garding it. The preparation, whateves it is^; is wrtmg^but in cloths by men- wospkittg' near a slow fire. Rice, still the chief article csliftjod aiaong the people, is dear here— viz, from 5,®0O to 1,000 cash a pieeul, ob at Shanghae cuTreiac;^ a iittle short of three pence a pound. . Hooclrow stands partly on the Ane->ch,B (^Grnanr Iceih) District, partly pri the^ District of Ww-I>s^'ng> (30) and after leaVklgi iby the Canal, the route to Pahledeo, thr^eiorfouri mites fjfom- the easibera walls is about l*}. by S.^ — Two iniles or so. East of Pahledeo is Stiag'-saiwg; and about a mil© further Y(ih-jong-hok. From this point to Shourming^ fu, a (Mstance of Kwm-gnan District; 83 ten miles Ki by N.— tke esfnisl runs by the villages of Tching ta^^^an>-q»mi-deO, Ghang-terig and Yat'ling-jow-^tk^ low hills, a-found being thickly studded with Fira or Mulbei^y trees, over Wheat, Beans and Grassicher. — Bridges of excellent work- manship are met at various poitife where the streams go ndrth or south fr««n the principal Chaimel A littlfe Way beij««md YaMfi§-jow is the Poo-dee-mew | ffodl which Ndn-D9img or Noan- zin, and unwalled town ef 40 of 50^0110 inhabitants bears N. E. distant about 3 miles. Nttn-Dzing is a vei^ busy place, giviflg employment to many coopers of- the lad^gfed tabs atid impletaehts sold Ik northern China tftaaists, and 0(Jca^i6(nyiy seen in tie south. Jin-zeh^ fti^othe!r large town on the Canal's banks, is about five nii^ from JYd^'D^ing ; And half a dozei^ iMilies further on, in a N"orth easterly direction, is S^-ch^e, aXsoa place of cortsiderabie size, 'the next place ef hot*, after pH^sinig Say- chee, and'ah»9»it Ttti^e tttile^e&st of it is ■Piiig~bong. This is a£ very Interesting pfeee, the principal tradel being in oil and oil cake of which there are several manufactories." B^ the Fatst^Pi* ehtraWce i% a pretty 'lfemf)te { K^bd-'sMn-kiaih) with a shrine to Te-chang-^an the- Goddess- of Earth-^^he vitevr from the top df the P*gbda to th>e gO(Uthwar