Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924029349226 MISSIONARY LABOURS AND SCENES zs SOUTHERN AFRICA. BY ROBERT MOFFAT, TWENTT-THREE TEARS AN AGENT OP" THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY IN THAT CONTINENT. SIXTH EDITION. NEW YORK : ROBERT CARTER, 58 CANAL STREET. PITTSBURG:— THOMAS CARTER. 1844. Ji PIERCY & REED, PRINTEB3, 9 Spruce-8t., N. T. PREFACE, The writer offers the following pages to the churches of his country as an humble contribution to their stock of knowledge relative to heathen lands. It contains a faithful record of events which have occurred with- in the range of his experience and observation, and supplies much that may serve to illustrate the peculiar attributes of African society. It may, he ventures to hope, tend materially to promote the study of the_plulo-' so-ElULaf missions. It will furnish botli the Sage and the Divine with facts for~which perhaps they were not prepared, and exhibit phases of humanity which they have not hitherto observed. It will further show that, amid circumstantial differences there is a radical identity in the operations of human depravity, in Asia, in Polynesia, and in Africa; and that while the Gospe l is the only, it is also the u niform remedj for the distress of a world convulsed by sin, and writhing with anguish. It will present striking examples of the complete subjugation of some of the fiercest spirits that ever trod the burning sanils of Africa, or shed the blood of her sable offspring. The Writer has indulged but slightly in philosophical disquisition, as he deemed it his province principally to su£g!j;.fii!H5- He leaves it with men of leisure and reflecting habits to analyze, compare, and deduce from those facts such doctrines as they supply. Indeed, little in this way can be added to the luminous works of Drs. Campbell and Harris, and Messrs. Hamilton, Noel, and others, by whom the subject of Missions has been so learnedly and eloquently illustrated. He hopes no apology will be deemed necessary for any imperfections which may appear in the preparation of his Narrative. The collocation of terms, and the polish of periods have made but a small part of his studies. Such pursuits, he conceives, were not the objects for which he was sent to Africa, and they would have but ill comported with the circumstances in which he spent a large portion of his arduous life on that benighted continent. He feels confident that lettered men will look into the pages of an African Evan- gelist for things far more substantial and important than the graces of composition — an accomplishment which the Author much admires, but to which he makes no pretension. He makes his present appearance be- fore the British public less in the capacity of an Author than of a Wit- _ ness, who most earnestly desires to establish and to aniogSi-te.gl.^niS Ot- perishing, and JielplesSj^ and all but friendless milUon s , for whom he has fiilheiC lTveran'inaBourea==^s*ofn'h'e ardcntfy'Ioves, and with whom— airblact. Barbarous, ahcT beiiighted as they are — he hopes to live, labour, and die I Inured to active habits, and unaccustomed to sedentary pursuits as the Writer has been, he has found the preparation of the present volume, in addition to the translation of the Scriptures and of other books, and the almost unremitting labours of the pulpit and the platform, an arduous undeitaking. Tlus task has been attended with a multiplicity of mental exercises of a very diversified character. Some of these exercises have been solemn and painful, others sweet and soothing. He has been led to retrace the windings of a long and chequered pilgrimage, and to live over again much of his by-gone life. The review has, in many parts, been deeply humbling, but in all highly profitable. It has been refresh- ing to recount the mercies of the God whom he serves, which have been abundantly vouchsafed to him and his household in distant climes, and amid savage men. He has also ofttimes rejoiced in spirit, when he called to mind the displays of Divine grace, which have attended his very im- perfect efforts to save the lost, and to benefit those who had no benefactor. Of time, however, he has often been reminded, that, as much is gone, little remains ; while even that little trembles in the balance of an awful uncertainty. Of those who began at the same period with himself the career of missionary toil, the greater number have sunk into the grave ; and not a few of those who followed long after, have also been gathered to their fathers. He is especially reminded of one, much honoured and endeared, whose tragical death, of all others, has most affected him. John Williams and he were accepted by the Directors at the same time, and designated to the work of God, at Surrey Chapel, on the same occa- sion, 'yhe fields of their service were both arduous, although of a widely different character. After much trial and many dangers, both have been permitted to return to their native land, and to publisli narratives of their respective labours. Thus far they run parallel ; but here they part com- pany. " 1'he Martyr of Erromanga" has finished his course, and rests from his labours; while his early friend still lives amidst the conflict. The Writer n ow feels that bis work in England is done , and that the spirit ofTKelrrangcr and the pilgrim is stealing powerfully over him. He longs once more to brave the mighty ocean ; and eagerly anticipates the hour when he shall again reach the shores of his adopted country, and appear in the midst of the children of the Wilderness. Amidst the dangers of the Deep, and the trials of the Desert, the Author will reflect with satisfaction upon the testimony he has left be- hind him to the condition and claims of the far distant tribes of South Africa. He is not without hope that it will, in some measure, serve to give him an interest in the sympathies and prayers of the Christian public when ho will be " far hence among the Gentiles." He leaves it to the churches of Britain as a memento of poor, degraded Africa. He hopes that all who peruse it, reflecting upon that unhappy and much injured re- gion, will feel the urgency of its claims, and fervently supplicate the Throne of Grace on its behalf I He bequeaths his book as a legacy of grateful affection to the multi- tudes of all classes, from whom he has received tokens of personal kind- ness, which, while life lasts, he will ever remember ; and as an expres- sion of a deep solicitude to promote the diffusion of the Gospel in that Continent to which his labours have been more especially directed. R. M. WaMoortli, London, May 34, 1842. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ■ PAflB General view of the state of Africa — Attempts to explore — Supposed origin of the Hottentots — How population extended — Origin of the Bushmen tribes — Their extent — Bechuana Bushmen — Their suf- fering and degradation — Variety of dialect accounted for — The Tamahas — Melancholy view of Bushman country — The Kafir origin and character — Countries of the Basutos and Bechuanas — I^amaquas and Damaras — ^Description of the Earoo — A dry' and barren country 13 CHAPTER II. First Mission to South Africa — ^Mr. Schmidt's success — Mission re- sumed — Mission to the Kafirs — Dr. Vanderkemp leaves Cape Town — Enters Eafir-land — Suspicions of the Kafirs — Ignorance of the natives — The Doctor's colleague leaves him — The Doctor's devot- edness and humility — Gaika solicits him to make rain — His self- denial and perils — ^A Hottentot woman — ^Enmity of some colonists — Awful retribution — Kafir mission abandoned .... 25 CHAPTER III. Dr. Vanderkemp's mission commenced among the Hottentots — The Governor's kindness — The station attacked — Trying circum- stances — ^Escape to Port Frederick — Bethelsdorp — Successes of Dr. V.'s efibrts — His death and character — Character continued — ^A re- markable incident — Kat River mission — Kafir mission resumed — Affecting scene — William's death — Brownlee finally resumes the mission — Effects of the Gospel 34 CHAPTER IV. Bushmen apply for teachers — ^Mr. Kioherer goes to Zak River — Diffi- culties and sacrifices — ^Liberality of the farmers — The mission aban- doned — The condition of the Bushmen — Lichtenstein's opinion — The Bushmen's resources and habits — Provoking characteristics — Inhuman practice — Mr. Kicherer's descriptioii— Cruelty to off- spring — Bushmen possess amiable qualities — ^Missions resumed at Toornberg, &c. — Missionaries ordered into the colony— Mr. Faure's affecting statement — ^Review of missions to the Bushmen — ^Plan recommended — Tte Bushmen and the goals — Stratagem ■ hunting . 43 CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Geographical position of Namaqua-land— When first visited by Mis- sionaries — Topography — Character and language of the inhabi- tants — ^Influence of foreign intercourse — Privations of the first mis- sionaries—Their feelings — They cross the boundaries of the colony — Cornelius Kok — Commencement of labours — First interviewr vfith Africaner— His ancestry — Oppressions — Revenge — The ca- tastrophe—Africaner's escape to the Orange River— War vyith the Berends — A testimony — Africaner attacks a banditti — His mode of warfare — His cattle stolen — He storms the assailants — Nicholas Eerend ,....•..••• ^ CHAPTER VI. Missionaries settle at Warm Bath — The people of their charge- Africaner joins the mission — Death of A. Albrecht — Pleasing prospects blasted — Murder of Hans Drayer — ^Painful dilemma — Trying alternative — A curious exhumation — Warm Bath de- stroyed — Hints to new missionaries — Death of Mrs. Albrecht^- Lighfal even-tide . 65 CHAPTER VII. The Rev. J. Campbell vrrites to Africaner — Mr. Ebner sent to the mission — Journey to Namaqua-land — Views of young travellers — No choice — Driving loose cattle — Awkward circumstances — The lost sheep — Swollen river — Leave Bysondermeid — A desert scene — Oxen run away — Mr. Bartlett arrives — Arrive at Pella — Cross the Orange River — A vigorous contest 71 CHAPTER VIII. The Author arrives at Africaner's kraal — Expeditious building — Comforts of a native house — Reflsctipns— Perplexing circumstances — Titus Africaner — Mr. Ebner leaves— Disposition of the people — Prosnect ^ brighte n — Africaiier's thirst for knowledge — Titus becomes frienHIy-^uarrelling wives — Africaner and civilization — His benevolence — His pacific efforts — The Author's illness — David and Jacobus Africaner — A thunder-storm— Dying scene CHAPTER IX. Projected journey— Making bellows — Commencement of journey — Geological observations — Travelling fare — Poisonous honey — Ig- norance of the natives — Mr. Schmelen's journal — Other testimo- nies — Mistakes of travellers — Supposed tradition of deluge — A sorcerer . . . 87 CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. Return homeward — The lion and giraffe — A night scene — Terror of oxen at a lion — Inhuman custom — Search for water — A mother left to perish — Human depravity — Wan t of natural affection — Sa- gacity of the lion — The lion's leap— Horrible position — Mode of frightening lions — Sufferings in the desert — Scenes at the water — JVlTssionaries of former times — Itinerating fare — A. scuffle with the lion — Night associates — Biichelors' Hall — The author's wardrobe 94 CHAPTER XI. Journey to Griqua country — The Coranna chief— Unpleasant ride — Sleeping in the sand — Scenes on the Orange River — The crow and tortoise — The Author drinks poisoned water — Native poisons — Kindness of Bushmen — Arrive at Kwees — A desert serenade — ^ Leaving the river — Some of the party wander — Pursued by a lion — Extreme hunger and thirst — An encounter with baboons — Des- perate circumstances — Description of the Mirage — Polluted water — Arrive at Griqua Town — ^Visit to Lattakoo — Providential esrape — Return to the desert — Thunder storm — A wet night's lodging — Providential supply — Encounter with a hippopotamus — Arrive at the station 108 CHAPTER XII. Journey to Cape Town — The p ower of the Gospel— Africaner's criti- cal position — A ludicrous stmi — IncreiluTity of a farmer — The surprise — ^Africaner's visk to the Governor — Sensation produced— The author appo inted to the Bechuana s — Africaner conveys his gosarToXattakoo — ills ueath — His early experience — Dreams and visions — Africaner's dream — The Author's an xiety about ihe m is- sioh — Why relinquished — "Wesleyahs resuine tlie mission — Mr. Backhouse's testimony — Difficulties inevitable— Prospective view 123 CHAPTER XIII. Mission to the Griquas — Its^orijgaAn^^yiSpter — Devotedncss of tho missioifafies — Mr. Ande^Son's descriptTon — ^Tlieir rormer character — Progress in civilization — A threatened attack averted — Impolitic measures— CfificSr'p5s!tjon — Mr. .Anderson leaves — The Author joins Mr. Helm— Waterbocr elected chief— His thirst for informa- tion — Origin of Bergenaars — Attacks on Griqua Town — Generous conduct — ^Mi-ssiionary influence- Retributive providence — Favour- able change — S uecefs^ s — Waterbner's government — Missionaries Government agents — How far a missionary can interfere in civil affairs — Life saved — Sir A. Stockenstrom's testimony — Treaties a wise policy — Chiefs defended— State and prospects . . .135 CHAPTER XVI. PASB Retrospective \iew — The prospective — First visitors to the Bechunnas —The chief Molehabangue — Messrs. Edwards and Kok — A dan- gerous expedient — Awful consequences — Honoura ble c nndiict in a heathen — ^Danger from Bushmen — The Bergovcr families — Murder A' a father and daughter — A dreadful situation — ^A heart-rending scene — A party visit Lithakn — A massacre — Dr. Lichtenstein's visit — Cowan and Denovan — Dr. Burchell's travels — Difficulties in the language — Mr. Campbell's cheering prospects — Missionaries sent to Lithako — Interview with the king — Missionaries rejected — Gloomy reflections — Causes of failure — Mr. Evans relinquishes the mission 148 CHAPTER XV. Mr. Reed succeeds in obtaining consent — Great wisdom required — Suspicions of the natives — Difficulty of obtaining confidence — A commando defeated — Encouraging tokens — An untoward circum- stance — Mr. Campbell's departure — The loaf stolen — The Author returns to the mission — Position of the missionary among the Be- chuanas — Difference of missionary fields — Peculiar difficulties — Total absence of Idolatry — Early professions ne criterion — A rain- maker's reasoning — Bechuana government — Pitshos, or native par- liament — National customs — Barriers to the Gosp el — Labours of the women — Bechuana. character^^^^TdcKtenstein and Thompson's testimonies 163 CHAPTER XVI. / Difficulties nn Bnterin g rvn a. piiasin n — Atheism of the Kafirs — Re- "marksWPnhgle and Ji.ay — testimony of a sorcerer — The praying Mantis — The Morimo of the Bechuana — Absurd notions of Morimo arid Barimo — Notions of the o rigin of man, etc. — A wo- man sees Morimo — Rain-malcefVsagaHfy — Upinions of divines — D eplorable ign ojaaff^ — Incredulity of a chief — Testimony of a convert . 17G CHAPTER XVII. Works of creation insufficient — Knowledge of God not innate— Invi- sible things of God — What the Scriptures teach — Opinions of ancient philosophers — President Edward's argument — Reason in- sufficient — Roby's conclusion on the subject— -Man's responsibility — Native ceremonies — Customs originating with doctors and rain- makers — An unpleasant ceremony — Native poets or eulogists — Natural theology — Systems of idolatry — Their various grades — How Africa was colonized — Physical variety in man . . . 18G CONTENTS. fat CHAPTER XVIII. PACH Indifference to instruction — The women monopolize the water — Efiti ence trie d — Situation of a missionary's wifo- Character of oar congregations — Cunning thieves — The bewitched pot — Con- Bolations — Acquiring the language — Character of interpreters — Errors inevitable — Serious blunders — ni^ yinfl siinp nft — Itinerating —Native views of the missionary character — A generous offer — The Moravians in Greenland — Paul's preaching at Athens — An example to missionaries — A Hottentot woman — Her afSiiction and penitence 194 CHAPTER XIX. Influence of rain-makera — The dead exposed — Ceremony of burial Severe drought — Embassy for a rain-maker— His propitious recep- tion^His popularity — His demeanour — His craftiness — Rain churned out of a milk sack — Tree struck by lightning — A baboon in requisition — The lions's heart— A grand discovery — Exhuma- tion of a bddy — The rain-maker begins to despair — He seeks coun- sel — A grave charge — The rain-maker condemned — He leaves the country 208 CHAPTER XX. Pr ospects become darke r — A trying crisis — Purposes overruled^ Seasons cnanged — cscarcity of rain accounted for — Indications o former luxuriance — Diminution of fountains — The North winds — Instinct of animals — Atmospheric phenomena — Description of thunder-storms — Thunder without clouds — Bechuana notions of thunder — The chapel clock 321 CHAPTER XXI. Reports of the Mantatees — The Author's wish to visit the interior — Opposition to the journey' — The hunted khama — Wild dogs' chase -^Mantatees discovered — Return homeward — Proceed to Griqua ( -.Town — A Bechuana parliament held-^Manner of the speakers — A councillor silenced — Taisho's speech — The king's concluding address 230 CHAPTER XXII. The Griquas arrive — The commando proceeds — Appalling sights- Narrow escape-^Battle commences — Savage fighting— "The enemy flee — The women and children — Description of the Mantatees — Renewed attempts' to rescue the women — ^A night's anxiety — .Fresh alarnjs — The women and dead horse — Goods stolen— Cru-, eity of the Bechuanas — Review of the subject — Concluding reflec- tions'—Missionary among the Mantatees 23d C0NTENT9. CHAPTER XXIII. Removal of the station propased^Objections to the plan — The Author visits Cape Town — Surprise of the Bechuana chiefs — Missionaries arrive — Return to the station— Journey to the Bauangketsi— ^ "Wander in the desert — The country and game — ^Natural wells — A Sabbath in the wilderness — Ignorance of the natives — Manner of catching game— Incidents at a pool— Great sufferings from thirst — A scene at the water — Arrive at the Barolongs — Children offered for sale — Proceed to the Bauangketsi — Cattle seized — The party met by a son of Makaba — The rain-maker's end— Reception at Kuakue 251 CHAPTER XXIV. The natives and the compass, etc. — Makaba's visit to the wagons- Description of the town — Character of Makaba — Bold hyenas — Conversation with Makaba — An attempt at instruction — Makaba's eistonishment at the doctrine of a resurrection — Great excitement — Tsusane's rebellion — His visit to the Kuruman— A stratagem — Tsusane's affecting end — Unfounded alarms — Preparations for defence — Precipitate departure — The Author's last interview — Return to the Barolongs — Threatened attack on Pitsana — A man e.scapes — His tale — A frightful savage' — ^Dangerous position — Wag- ons attacked — A battle — A heathenish scene — Christian conduct — An explosion — Divine interposition — Affairs at the station — A midnight alarm— Concluding remarks ..,.,, 266 CHAPTER XXVI. State of the public mind — A civil war — Infatuation — Conference with Mothibi — ^Attack of the marauders — Leave the station — Universal commotion — Death of Peclu, the yoUng prince — The Kuatse dis- ease — Cruel superstition — Revenge sought — Renewed attacks- Mr. Hughes's illness — Discouraging prospects — Ungenerous con- duct — A chief eaten by a lion — Fresh alarms — Locusts — Descrip- tion of them — How prepared for use — Young locusts most destruc- tive — Calf stealers— Remarkable case 285 CHAPTER XXVII, Visit to the Barolongs — An interview with lions — Narrow escape — Fresh visitors— A lion's meal— Arrive at Choaine — Company and assistance— Manner of life — Rhmoceroses— A night hunt — Kinds of game — Swift runners — Depravity of the natives — A cruel prac- tice — The smith's shop— Wire-drawing — ^A royal visitor — Return to the station 301 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVIII. FA08 Change of prospects — Startling intelligence — Distracting 'circum- stEOices — Sojourn at Griqua Town — iieturn to the Station — Rev. Richard Milcs's visit — Population scattered — Pleasing indications — Another commando — Audacity of the enemy — Their purposes defeated — Treatment of prisoners — Another horde of banditti — An anxious Sabbath — A flag of truce — A parley with the enemy — Mr. and Mrs. Archbell arrive — The powrer of conscience — Pacific results — A massacre — Divine retribution . , . ,313 CHAPTER XXIX. Delightful change — Aaron Josej)h baptized-^Cheering fruits — Bap- tism of six converts — Expectations realized — Rejoicing with trem- bling — The Gospel civilizes — Native costume — Sewing school com- menced — Dawn of civilization — Novel fashions — Candle-making adopted — Feelings and experience of the natives — The dying con- vert 327 CHAPTER XXX. Moselekatse's ambassadors — Their astonishment — Danger attending their return — The Author accompanies them — Their reception by Mahura — ^A lion attacks the oxen — Arrive at the Bahurulsi — Country and game — The inhabited tree — Singular expedient — The lions and the oven — An urgent appeal — Indications of former pros- perity—Traces of great industry— The ravnges of war — An inte- resting recital — Heavy rains — Meet a hnnling party — Savage pomp— Moselekatse afraid — Warriors described — A grand ball . 337 CHAPTER XXXI. The Author's stay prolonged — An expression of gratitude — A Satur- day eve — A criminal tried — Savage heroism^ — Suicide — Parasites — Moselekatse's history — His character — A bereaved father — His efforts to redeem his son — Paternal affection — A mother's love — ' Moselekatse's inquiries — Passion for war — A monstrous action-^ Rough cooks— The horrors of war— The Author returns home . 353 *■ CHAPTER XXXH. The progress of civilization — The foundation of the chapel laid — De- scription of the station — Learning to print — Introduction of the printing press — Seasonable supply — Berend's commando — The ca- tastrophe — Mission to the Bahurutsi — A daughter's compassion — The Scripture Lessons — The dying grandmother — Another in- stance — Polygamy — The Word Blessed — Difficulties — Dr. A. Smith's kindness — The Author accompanies the expedition — Arrive at Moselekatse's — Curious ceremony — Superstition — The lost horse — Escape from a lion — Return to the Kuruman , , 367 xu CHAPTER XXXIII. FAGS A j ourney for timber — The mission to Mosega resumed — Moaelekatse and the farmers — Prospects among the Bakone tribes — Native agency — An itinerating tour — A visit to Mosheu — His first visit to the station — A second visit— Desire for instruction — Arrive at the village — Eagerness to hear the Gospel — A curious preacher — Anxiety to learn to read — Teaching the alphabet by moonlight — ' '" Auld lang syne" — Departure — Pleasing fruits — The power of pacific principles — A merchant settles on the station — The chapel opened — Mothibi's conversion — Concluding remarks . . , 383 CHAPTER XXXIV. The Basuto mission — The speech of Mosheshe — Extended opera- tions — Omnipotence of the Gospel — Hope for Africa — The Niger I Expedition — The duty of the Church of Christ — Anticipated re- • suits — Potency of the Scriptures — Agreeable surprise — Christian hospitality 39a tj MISSIONARY LABOURS. CHAPTER I. The continent of Africa, though probably the most ancient field of geographical enterprise, still is, and there is reason to believe that it wiU long continue to be, the least explored, portion of our earth. Though once the nursery of science and hterature, the emporium of commerce, and the seat of an empire -which contended with Rome for the sovereignty of the world, — the cradle of the,^ncient church, and the asylum of the infant Saviour, yrf^ Africa)Btill presents a com - parative, blank o n the map , as welTas in the history of the world. 'l'hough,"according to Herodotus, it was circumna- vigated by the Phrenicians long before the Christian era, and Its coast was the first object of maritime discovery after the compass had inspired seamen with confidence to leave shores and landmarks, and stand forth on the boundless deep ; yet to this day its interior regions continue a rnystery to the white man, a land of darkness and of terror to the most fearless and enterprising traveller. Although in no country has there been such a sacrifice of men to the enterprise of discovery — of men the most intelligent and undaunted, of men impelled not by gross cupidity, but by refined philan- thropy ; — yet, notwithstanding such suffering and waste of human life, we are only acquainted with the fringes of that immense continent, and a few lineaments at no great dis- tance from its shores. Africa had once her churches, her colleges, her repositories of science and learning, her Cyprians and bishops of apos- tolic renown, and her noble army of martyrs ; but now the 2 14 STATE OF AFRICA. funeral pall hangs over her wide-spread domains, while her millions, exposed to tenfold horrors, descend like a vast fu- nereal mass to the regions of woe. Christendom has been enriched by her gold, her drugs, her ivory, and bodies and souls of men — and what has been her recompense ? A few crucifixes planted around her shores, guarded by the military fort and the roar of cannon. Had_it not been f or British power and British sympathy uiider the favoiif of Heaven, Africa to tliis day, with scarcely one exception, might have had the tri-coloured fla^ waving on her'bosom, bearing the ensigns of the mystery of Babylon, the crescent of the false prophet, and the emblems of pagan darkness, from the shores of the Mediterranean to the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. " The countries extending throughout by far the greater portion of the vast surface just mentioned, are, as regards soil and capabilities, among the finest in the world; but the population of the whole, with the exception of Egypt in an- cient times, and the population of the shores of the Mediter- ranean when under the Carthaginian, the Roman, and the brighter daysjDf Arab sway, have been, through every age, and are stiH, sunk into the lowest depths of ignorance, super- stition, disol'ganization, and debasement ; the glimmer of ci- vilization, which for a time appeared in Nubia and Ab)''s- sinia, compared with the whole, scarcely forming an excep- tion."* Before entering into a detail of Missionary operations, it may be proper to glance briefly at the position, extent, and character of some of the fields which have been occupied. The bold and mountainous promontory of the Cape, was first discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, the Portug uese navi- gator, and was taken possession of by the Uutch, in 1652. At that period the whole of what is now designated the Co- lony, was inhabited by Hottentots proper, whose liistory and origin, from their physical appearance, language, and cus- toms, continue involved in profound mystery. They resem- ble none of the Kafir, Bechuana and Damara nations, which bound the different tribes of that remarkable people, extend- ing from Angra, Pequena Bay on the west, to the great Fish-river on the east. The whole race are distinct from all others with which we are acquainted. Taking the Hotten- tots, Corannas, Namaquas, and Bushmen, as a whole, they are not swarthy or black, but rather of a sallow colour, and * M'ftueen's Geographical Survey of Africa. HOW POPULATION EXTENDED. 15 in some cases so light, that a tinge of red in the cheek is perceptihle, especially among the Bushmen. They are ge- nerally smaller in stature than their neighhours of the inte- rior ; their visage and form very distinct, and in general the ■fop of the head broad and flat ; their faces tapering to the cmn, with high cheek bones, flat noses and large Ups. Since the -writer has had opportunities of seeing men, women, and children, from Cliina, he feels strotigly inclined to think, with Barrow, tliat they approach nearer in the colour atid in the construction of their features, to that people than to any other nfition. Since his anival in England, this supposition has been strengthened by seeing two blind Chinese children whom, had he not been previously informed, he would have taken for Hottentots ; and if they had had their eyesight, the resemblance would have been much more striking. It is well known that the Hottentots inhabit the southern point of Africa, and spread northward, while the Bushmen, the most northerly, pxist among the inhabited regions, where they continue pl^rfeotly distinct, and, which is veiy remarka- ble, do not become darker in their complexion, as is the case with all the other tribes that inhabit, or have inhabited the Torrid Zone. If they had been gipsies from Egypt, as some have thought, it is another singular circumstance, that they should not, during the successive ages which they must have required slowly to advance through nearly 5000 miles of ter- ritory, have adopted one word of the language of the myriads with whom they came in contact, or one of their easterns of any description, not even that of sowing seed in the earth. It may not be considered chirherical to suppose that when t he sons of H am entered Africa, by Egypt, and the Ara- bians, by the Red Sea, that the Hottentot progenitors took the lead, and gradually advanced in proportion as they were urged forward by an increasing population in theirrear, until they reached the ends of the earth. It may also be easily conceived of by those acquainted with the emigration of tribes, that during their progress to the south, parties remain- ed beliind, in the more sequestered and isolated spots, where they had located while the nation moved onward, and re- search may yet prove that that remarkable people originally came from Egypt* At all events, it is evident that they * A few evenings ago I was in the company of a Syrian who lately came from Egypt. On giving him a specimen and a description of tho JHottentot language, he remarked that he had seen slaves in the market at Cairo, brought a great distance from the interior, who spoke a similar Unguage, ana were not near so dark coloured as slaves in general. 16 ORIGIN OP THE BUSHMEN TRIBEo. have arisen from a race distmctfrom t.liat pf tjn^ji r np.ig liTinOTji, and extended inland, inliiabiting the most fertile spots, till their course was arrested on the east by the bold and warlike Kafirs, and on the north by the Bechuana and Damara. It is probable that they stretched out into Great Namaqualand, along the western division of the colony, till prevented by a desert country, beyond which lay the Damaras; and then again they proceeded from Little Namaqualand, eastward, along the coohng banks of the Gariep or Orange River, richly fringed with overhanging willows, towering acacias, and kharree trees and shrubs, umbrageous at all seasons of the year. Thus, by the locahties of the country they became separated into three great divisions, Hottentots, Corannas, and lesser and greater Namaquas. From time immemorial these have been the boimdaries of their habitations, while the desert wastes and barren mountain-ravines, which in- tervened, became the refuge and domains of the Bushmen, who are emphatically the children of the d£sert. All these possess nearly the same physical characteristics, the same manners and cus toms . I have had in mypresence genuine HBtlentots, "Corannas, and Namaquas, who had met from their respective and distant tribes, for the first time, and they conversed with scarcely any difficulty. All use the same weapons, the quiver, bow, and poisoned arrows, of which the tribes beyond are ignorant, except such as border on them, like the Batlapis, who say they adopted that new mode of warfare in order to compete with them and the Bushmen, from both of whom they obtained these weapons, which they have not yet learned to manufacture. The Bushmen are the most remarkable portion of the Hottentot nation. Various opinions have been ofiered on the origin .and state of the Hottentots, among which is that of Qibbon, that " they were the co nnecting link between the rational and irrational creation ." If he had been acquainted with, the Bushmen, who are unquestionably inferior to the Hottentots, he would have felt more confidence in this strange and long exploded theory. Some say they are the progeni- tors of the nation ; others, that they are an entirely distinct race ; and others, again, that they are Hottentots, who have been directly or indirectly plundered of their cattle by the Dutch fajrmers. That the Bushmen are the people frpm whom the Hottentot tribes have descended, is irreconcilable This corTobora,tes the statements of ancient authors, whose descriptioii of a people inhabiting the interior regions of Northern Afripa, answer to that of the Hottentot and Buchmen. BECHUANA BUSHMEN. 17 with, existing facts ; thatjtliex_^are a_distinct race, is still far- ther from probability ;~an3lSat tbey arepruncteTSd Hotten- tots, is, in my humble opinion, a preposterous notion, result!- ing from limited information on the subject If this were to be admitted, then we must also admit that the Hottentots, in being deprived of their cattle, and becoming Bushmen, were deprived of their language also ; for it is well known, from the earliest records that can be obtained on the subject of their language — which has, in iiddition to the klick of the Hottentot, a croaking in the throat, — that they never under- stood each other without interpreters. Another fact is, that the Bushmen^are to be found scat- tered, though thinly, among ^ the Bechuana tribes orthe inlerior with which we are acquainted," even as far as the Mampoor lake, about eight hundred miles north of Latta- koo. The Marosa, or Baroa Bushmen, are found of the same description as those just beyond the bou ndarie s of the colony ; and from the oldest traditions we can find among the Corannas and Namaquas, who are the unmixed Hot- tentots, as also from the Bechuanas, it may be demonstrated, that they existed a wandering people without homes, or cattle, or even nationality of character. That they de- scended from Hottentots, requires little argument to prove. Probably there are connected vidth all the tribes of Africa numbers of a nomadic character, whose origin will throw light on the history of the Bushmen. A parallel is furnished by the following facts of the case, which have hundreds of times come under my own observation, during a residence of more« than twenty years among the Bechuana tribes. Connected with each of the tovms among that people, there are great numbers of what are called " Balala," poor ones, who stand in the same relation to the Bechuanas in which the Bushmen formerly stood to the Hottentots, and whose origin doubtless was of the same nature. These Balala were once inhabitants of the towns, and have been permit- ted or appointed to hve in country places for the purpose of procuring skins of wild animals, wild honey, and roots, for their respective chiefs. The number of these country resi- dents was increased, by the innate love of liberty, and the scarcity of food in towns, or within the boundaries to which they were confined by water and pasture. These again formed themselves into small communities, though of the most temporary character, their calling requiring migration, having no cattle of any description. Accustomed from in- fancy to the sweets of comparative liberty, which they vastly 2* 18 THEIR DEGRADATION. preferred to a kind of vassalage in the towns, or kraals, tliey would make any sacrifice to please their often distant, supe- riors, rather than be confined to the irksomeness of a town life. Such is their aversion, that I have known chiefs take armed men, and travel a hundred miles into desert places, in order to bring back Balala, whom they wished to assist them in watching and harvesting the gardens of their wives ; and in such seasons they will frequently wander about, and fix their domiciles in the most desert and unfrequented spots, to escape this easy, but to them galling duty, which is only required in a year of plenty. Though in general they are able to state to what chief oi tribe they belong, yet, from want of intercourse, and from desolating wars, which are only waged where there is a prospect of plunder, great numbers of them become, in their isolated position, independent. They are never permitted to keep cattle, and'li'FngSpo^ed to the caprice, cupidity, and tyranny of the town lords, whenever they happen to come in their way. They live a hungiy_lile^eing dependent on the chase, wild roots, berries,^oc&sts, and indeeHany thing eat- able that comes within their reach ; and when they have a more than usual supply, they will bury it in the earth, from their superiors, who are in the habit of taking what they please. Resistance on their part would be instantly avenged with the deadly javelin. When hunting parties go out to kiU game, the Balala, men and women, are employed to carry grievous burdens of flesh to the rendezvous of the hunters ; in return for which, they receive the offals of the meat, and are made drudges so long as the party remains. They are never permitted to wear the furs of f&es and other animals they obtain. The flesh they may eat ; but the skins are conveyed to the towns, for which they obtain a small piece of tobacco, or an old spear or knife. Indeed, all the valuable skins of the larger animals, which they sometimes procure by hunting and pitfalls, as well as the better portions of the meat, they have to yield to their nomi- nal masters, except when they succeed in secreting the whole for their own use. From the famishing life to which they are exposed, their external appearance and stature are pre- cisely to the Bechuanas, what the Bushmen are to the Hot- tentots. Those, however, who live in places which afford a better supply of food, are generally of equal stature with those who live in towns. The natives I have observed throughout southern Africa are like plants on a sterile soil REASONS FOR VARIETY OF DIALECT. 1"* and bleak aspeet, stunted in growth, while in a more genial situation the same species are trees instead of shrubs. The next problem is the v ariety of , ^p.n guages^ poken by the Bushmen, even when nothing but a range of niUs or a river intervenes between the tribes, and none of these dia- lects is understood by the Hottentots. This may be solved with still greater ease, by again referring to the Balala. The dialects of the Sechuana as spoken by these people, especially in districts remote from, the towns, is so different from that srpoken by the nation generally, that interpreters are frequently required. In order to accoimt for this, it is necessary to become acquainted with their habits. In the towns the purityandharmony of the language is kept up by their pitches or public meetings, at which the finest luu- guage is spoken, by their festivals and ceremonies, as weU as by their songs and their constant intercourse ; for, like the Athenians of old, they are ever teUing or hearing some " new thing," and the first question a person who has come firom a neighbouring village is asked will be, " Lo yelang gona?" What do you eat there ? or, "'Mpulfila mahuku." Tell me the news. There is no end to conversation, ex- cepting when sleep overcomes or pinching hunger prevails. With the isolated villages of the desert, it is far otherwise. They have no such meetings, no festivals, no cattle, nor any kind of manufactures to keep their energies ahve ; riches they have none, their sole care being to keep body and soid together ; to accomplish this, is with them their " chief end ;" they are compelled to traverse the wilds often to a great dis- tance from their native village. On such occasions, fathers and mothers and all who can bear a burden, ofteji set out for weeks at a time, and leave their children to the care of two or more infirm old people. The infant progeny, some of whom are beginning to lisp, while others can just master a whole sentence, and those still farther advanced, romping and playing together, the chj ldre n, o f naturg , through the livelong day, become habituate 3~to^ language of their own. The more voluble condescend to the less precocious, and thus from this i nfant Babel proceeds a dialect composed, of a host of mongrel words and phrases joined together \viUioyt rule, and in the course of a generation the entire character oTthe language is changed. Their servile state, their scanty clothing, their exposure to the inclemency of the weather, and their extreme poverty, have, as may be easily conceived, a deteriorating influence on their character and condition They are generally less in stature, and though not deficient 20 THE TAMAHAS. in intellect, the life they lead gives a melancholy cast to their features, and from constant intercourse with beasts of prey and serpents in their path, as well as exposure to harsh treatment, they appear shy, and have a wild and fre- quently quick suspicious look. Nor can this be wondered at, when it is remembered that they associate with savage beasts, from the lion that roams abroad by night and day, to the deadly serpent which infests their path, keeping them always on the alert during their perambulations. All tliis and much more which might be said of the Balala, may also with the strictest propriety be affirmed of the Bushmen. Any one familiarly acquainted with the interior, can have no doubt as to the origin and the correctness of the description given of the " Bechuana Bushmen," as Mr. Campbell calls them, and of whom he says, " they are a people greatly despised by all the surrounding tribes." Their numbers have also been increased by fugitives from other towns and vil- lages, which have been reduced by devastating wars from peace and plenty, to the most abject poverty, and the in- habitants forced to flee to the desert for sustenance, hardly disputed with the beasts of prey. From this class of people, the Tamahas, or Red people, as the etymology of the word imports, who are by the Griquas called Red Kafirs, arose. They formed a consideralble body in the days of Moleha- bangue the father of Mothibi, the present chief of the Bat- lapis, who, in his commandoes for the capture of cattle, was wont to take them with him. Taught this mode of warfare, and being of an intrepid character, they sallied forth and took cattle for themselves, which Molehabangue's generous disposition allowed them to keep, and they became an inde- pendent tribe, continuing the faithful allies of the Batlapis. That such were the Bushmen formerly, there can be no doubt ; and it is equally certain their numbers were in- creased by parties of Hottentots, robbed, and compelled to abandon for ever the land of their ancestors; and who naturally sought to satisfy their wants by a predatory warfare, and thus taught the Bushmen to become the pirates of the desert. Hence arose that kind of policy, once sanctioned by the Cape colonial gover nmen t, of exter- mia ation, on which it is impossible to" reflect without horror. It appears from the earliest records on the subject, and especially from the journals of those engaged in the work, that the Bushmen were once very; numerous. I have traversed those regions in which, according to the testimony of the farmers, thousands once dwelt, drinking at their own THE KAFIRS. 21 fountains, and killing their own game ; but now, alas, scarcely a family is to be seen ! It is impossible to look over these now uninhabited plains and mountain-glens without feeling the deepest melancholy, while the winds moaning in the vale seem to echo back the sound, " Where are they ?" In this more enlightened age, the farmers cannot refer to the melancholy history of that unfortu nate r ace without feelings of regret, while it is but justice" to add, that many onhe'iarmers made strenuous efforts, and collected thou- sands of cattle and sheep, which they presented to the neighbouring Bushmen, hoping to induce them to settle, and hve by breeding cattle ; but these efforts always failed. It was too late • past sufferings, and past offences on both siSes, had produced a spirit of ha,tred so- universal, that it was of no avail to pacify one party, while thousands were thirsting for revenge and plunder. Their numbers are now comparatively few, even among the tribes far beyond the present limits of the colony, from the same mutual strife. It will be evident from the preceding statements, that the Bushmen were originally poor Hottentots, and will in aU probability, like their progenitors, in course of time, cease to be a distinct people, by becoming gradually mixed with the tribes among whom they are scattered. Some additional remarks on this people will be found under the head, Mis- sio ns to the B ushmen. ^1['he KanrsJ the next African tribe to which I shall briefly releiYlive beyond the Fish River, on the eastern boundary of the colony. At an earlier period they possessed much of that part of Albany now inhabited by English farmers and Hottentots, though it is presumed, on very good grounds, that the Hottentot country formerly extended a considerable distance into that of the Kafirs. The Kafirs forpi one tribe of the Great Bechuana family, and probably emigrated from the direction of Delagoa Bay, till they came in contact with ,the Hottentots along the coast. Their origin must be traced to the same source as that of the numerous tribes of the Bechuanas, from the aiEnity of languages spoken throughout the eastern part of the continent of Africa. Their national character is bold and warlike, and their Tnajntaininpi t;herr2ndep ^i:^ , ^ence. to the present day,, after aU their conflicts"wltIi the colony, and especially in the late war, when no less a sum than 241,884^. was expended in the destructive, but fruitless conflict, in order to drive them from the mountain-passes, and the impenetrable jungles, a country over which their ancestors had swayed the sceptre 22 BASUTOS AND BECHUANA COUNTRY. for ages, is a decisive evidence of their martial spirit. Their country is bounded by the ocean on the south, and a range of mountains on the north, and beyond them he the Ama- pondo and Zoolu tribes. North of Kafir-land, betvi'een the Winterberg mountains and the higher branches of^jhe Yellow River, lies the country inhabited by the:,Basutos,>a tribe of Bechuanas. Since the days of Chaka, the' tyrant of the Zoolus, who oppressed them from the east, while the Bergenaars on the west were exercising dreadful barbarities, and reduced most of the tribes to extreme poverty ; they have risen- again in a fertile country, to comparative affluence. The commence- ment of missions among them by the brethren of the Evan- gelical Missionary Society at Paris, and subsequently by the Wesleyans, is the cause of this improvement in their cir- cumstances. Beyond the Basutos, to the north of the Orange River, lie the other Bechuana tribes, whose numbers and extent we have not yet been able to learn. There is some reason for supposing that they-formerly extended much farther to the southward than their present limits, the 28° south latitude, for the places as far as the Orange River have Bechuana names ; and even the Lokualo* of the Bechuana is to be found on stones near the present boundaries of the colony; but this may have been done by herdsmen taken or escaped from those tribes. Few, except Balala, lie farther west than the 23° east longitude. Between 23° and 19°, Ues what Mr. Campbell calls the southern Zahara, which, from what I have seen on the east, south, and western boundaries of it, is a fearful expanse of sand, though undulating, and in many places covered with acacias and other trees of gigan- tic size. The eastern parts are inhabited by the Balala of the Bechuana ; the southern, near the Orange River, by Bushmen ; and the western, by Namaqua Bushmen, but none of them are able to keep cattle. They subsist on game, water-melons, and roots. The country from the limits of the desert to the west coast is called Great Namaqualand, containing a thin * Lokualo, from which we derive the word writing or printing, in formed generally by herd-boys, who with a stone make various figures on stones with a flat surface, without any reference to shape. Marks are made by striking the stone on another till curved lines, circles, ovals, and zigzag figures are impressed on its surface, exhibiting the appearance of a white strip of about an inch broad, like a confused coil of a rope. " " ■ TIIE KARROO COUNTRY, 23 population of the Hottentot race. To the north of the Namaquas lie the Damara tribes, of whom comparatively little is known, except that from their physical appearance and black colour, they approximate to the negroes and natives of Congo on 1ji,e west coast. These tribes inhabit a country extending from the tropic of Capricorn to the Cape of Good Hope, and from the Atlantic to the shore of the Indian Ocean. The climate varies from that in which thwider storms and tornadoes shake the mountains, and the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun produce the mirage, to that which is salubrious and mild within the boundaries of the colony along Kafir-land to the fruitful and well watered plains of the Zoolu country in the vicinity of Port Natal, whUe the more mountainous and elevated regions are visited by keen frosts and heavy falls of snow. The colony extends, from west to east, about 600 miles, its average breadth being about 200, containing a variety of climate, the healthiest perhaps to be found in any part of the world. Between the coast andjthe vast chain of moun- tains beyond which lie the , as any other human beings would have done in similar circumstances ; he there- fore, very naturally, directed his steps to those who were yet frpft frn|p tTipgp unnatural restriction s. Ilaving received every encouragement from the £nghsh government, and recommendatory letters to the farmers, he left Cape Town. The country through which he had to pass was thinly, andjn_jaa.any places newly inhabited. The party arrived at Qfraafi" Rem|)t on June 29, after having, with their attendajfe"att(t^BaSle, experienced many narrow escapes from Uons, panthers, and other wild beasts, as well as firom Bushmen and Hottentots, of character still more 23 SUSPICIONS OF THE KAFIRS. ferocioiis. Notwithstanding, wherever they w.ent, they were kindly treated by the farmers, although their fears and alarms must have been many, and nothingbut^pi vine power co uld have cheered them_oHwai:(Uirt&eir desert path. ^liTTuly; 1T59, he proceeded from GraafT Reinet, the most distant colonial town, and the nearest to the Kafirs. This was a daring undertaking, when it is remembered that for a long time previous a dire, and often deadly strife had been kept up between them and the farmers, whom they very naturally viewed as intruders, and towards whom they must have looked with a jealous eye, both they and their fore- fathers having witnessed the reduction of the Hottentots, once their equals in number and power, to a state of slavery, destitution, and sorrow; the mere fragment of a nation being left. It would be expecting too much from human nature, and even from the noble and manly character oTtTfie Kafirs, to expect that they should refrain from laying hands on the cattle of the farmers, a system carried on amongst all the tribes of South Africa. There is, however, much reason to believe that they were excited to this practice to a much greater extent by the conduct of some unprincipled colonists, for we find on one of the earliest missions to Gaika, for the purpose of preventing depredations by the Kafirs, the chiefs stated that these were prompted solely by the example set first, and on a larger scale by the colonists. This, it seems, was an undeniable fact, so that the British could only stipu- late for the good conduct of their subjects in future, provided the Kafirs observed a similar procedure. It was among a people inured to war, fierce and superstitious, and often ex- asperated by the exercise of the superior power of theip neigh- bours, that Dr. Vanderkempjii tched his-t ant. I have gazed with sacred awe"^inhe spot where he raised the Gosp el standard ; here he laboured for a seasoiT, in company with Mr. Edmonds, who, to his deep regret, afterwards proceeded to the East Indies. He was thus l eft alone with only a few attendants, among a people destitute of confidence in each other, and fired with jealousy towards every white intruder, with these feelings being frequently increased by the in- fluence of runaway slaves and deserters, who naturally felt that .their interest and safety would be secured by fanning the flame of discord. Under all these untoward circumstances it was impossible that the Kafirs could view Dr. V.'s sojourn among them in any other light than as a spy, or precursor of deeply laid VANDERKEMP AND GAIKA. 29 stratagems to get possession of their country and cattle, by the people from whom he had come, and to whom he be- longed. He carried no credential s to recommend him, but t he Divine' commissio n : his very appearance must have ha3 little to fascmate a savage mind, capable of appreciating only outward pomp, or displays of human power. The Doc- tor's habits were such as to convey a very different impres- sion, for he generally appeared in the plainest garb, and, ac- cording to his own account, without hat, or shoes, or stock- ings. He had escaped in rough and' trackless ravines and plains through which he passed, not only from beasts of prey, but from deserters, who laid in wait to murder him ; and when he appeared before the sovereign of the country, he was at the mercy of a tyrant whose mind was poisoned by individuals from the colony, of somd influence, insinuating that he was a spy. Many questions were put to him respecting his object, and pohticai connexions, and they were especially anxious to know if he were sent by the English. To which the Doctor replied with great humiUty, and referred to the goviernor's permission and recommendations to the favour of the autho- rities, in permitting him to proceed. "JDjd^gp," continued Gaika, " this plan spring forth only out'of your own heart? " " This very question,'' says the JUoctor, upbraided me of my unfaithfulness, and put this answer into my mouth : that this my plan was indeed formed only in my own heart, though it never was formed by it ; but that the God of heaven and earth, in whose hand were their hearts, and my heart, had put it into it, to go tothis people, and to communicate in his name, things with which their temporal and eternal happi- ness were connected." This simple and honest reply, in some measure pacified the jealous spirit of one whose mind was more likely to be moved by the representations made to him that the mission- aries were spies and assassins, possessing enchanted and poisoned wine for the purpose of taking his hfe. Mr. Buys, who had fled from the colony on account of debt, being fa- miliar with the language, was in the first instance of essen- tial service to the missionary. Gaika was evidently struck •with the peculiarity of the Doctor's character ; being alto- gether different from any of those he had seen before, and observing he never vsrore a hat, lie asked him if God had ordered him not to do so. Some time elapsed before the crafty monarch would give his consent that diey should remain in his dominions : and 3* 30 IGNORANCE OF THE NATIVES. when this was at length granted^ and a suitable spot selected, he adds, in true Gospel simplicity, " Brother Edmonds and I cut down long grass and rushes for thatching, and felled trees in the wood. I kneeled down on the grass, thanking the Lord Jesus that he had provided me a resting-place be- fore the face of our enemies and Satan, praying that from under this roof the seed of the Gospel might spread north- wards through aR Africa." Some idea may b^ formed of the deplorableignorance of the natives concerning the object of th^e men of God, trom the following facts, occurrences similar to which the writer has often witnessed in other parts of the interior. After reading their evening chapter, when the missionaries arose to kneel around the fire, with the Hottentots, S native, who was with them, was so terrified, that he seized his spear, and running off to the field, hid himself, supposing they in- tended to murder him. A few days after, a young Kafir wo- man going to visit the party, seeing in the distance their tent shaken by the wind, and supposing it to be some rapa- cious beast which the messengers of peace had let loose to devour her, bolted off through the river into the forest, where, missing the path, she had nearly lost her life by falling into a pit. The Doctor, with his life in his hand, in the rpidst of a people among whom the murder of a white man was consi- dered a meritorious deed, contmued G05Saj37cDJirse, like a ship rising above every sTJcceeding wave which threat en^ to engulf it," and so completely was his mind absorbed and baffled by the vanity and dull monotony around, that for a time he kept his sabbath on the Saturday. Deeply ^d he deplore the departure of his feUow-labourerf JML,^ijBonds, to which the Doctor refers in the spirit of Christian charity, and ascribes it not to a diminution of fraternal love, but to an insurmountable aversion on his part to the people, and a strong desire to labour among the Hindoos of Bengal. After Mr. E.'s departure, which was on the 1st of January, the Doctor in his cheerless abode was instant in season and out of season, eagerly embracing every opportunity of re- commending the gospel, and catching each little ray of light that beamed on his devious path He was amanof^xalt- ed genius__and_leaxjiing. He had mingled witTi courtiers! He~had been an inmate of the universities of Leyden and Ediiiburgh. He had obtained plaudits for his remarkable progress in literature, in philosop hy, divinity, physic, and the mil itjiry a rt. He was not only a profound student in ancient VANDERKEMP's DEVOTEDNESS. 31 languages, but in all the modern European tongues, even to that of the Highlanders of Scotland, and had distinguished himself in the armies of his earthly sovereign, in connexion with which he rose to be captain of horse and lieutenant of the dragoon guards. Yet this man, constrained by the [jjirvf o f Chri st," could cheerfully la y aside all his honours, mingle ■with savages, bear their srieers and contumely, ca|descend to serve the meanest of his troublesome guests^teke the axe, the ^ckle, the spade, and the mattock — lie down on the place where dogs repose, and spend nights with his couch drenched with rain, the cold wind bringing his fragile house about his ears. Though annoyed by the nightly visits of hungry hyenas, sometimes destroying his sheep and travel- ling appurtenances, and even seizing the leg of beef at his tent door, — though compelled to wander about in quest of lost cattle, and exposed to the perplexing and humbling ca- price of those whose characters were stains on human nature — whisperings occasionally reaching his ears that murderous plans were in progress for his destruction — he calmly pro- c eeded with his benevolent effort ^ and tc^secure his ol^^^^ womd stoop with " the meekness of wisdom" to please and propitiate the rude and waywaxd children of the desert whom he sought to bless. In the midst of aJl his discouragements , when he dis- covered the f aintest image of his Lord an d lyfastp.r in a poor Hottentot or Kanr, he was enraptured! When told by a Hottentot woman that she incessantly prayed to Jesus to re- veal himself to her, and teach her what she ought to know, his heart was 6]lgd Yf\t^ j^y ; and he adds, " I prayed the Lord tJiat it might please him to accompany the unworthy efforts of his vile servant with the influences of his Spirit And, oh, how did my soul rejoice that the Lord had given me, in this wilderness among tigers and wolves, and at such a distance from Christians, a poor heathen woman with whom I could converse confidently of the rnysteries of the hidden communion with Christ. Oh, that I may not be de- ceived. Lo, my winter is past — the voice of the turtle is already heard in the land." In one part of his journal he says, " Satan roared hke a hon. It would not be prudent to mention the particulars of his assaults, but it was resolved that I should be kdled as a conspirator against the king of this country." While, however, thus exposed to the fury and jealousy of those whose feet were swift to shed blood, especially that of a white man, his whole journal exhibits ait-^ 32 unwaverin g reliance o n the name of tha- Ltardi. whicliJie found toJa£La.st!3ng_towCT. 'TEe' native magicians having failed in their attempts to make rajn, Gaika sent a reward of two milch cows and their calves, soliciting the Doctor to use his efforts. He rephed that he could not make rain, but could and would pray for it. Hj^rayers were heard ; rains fell abundantly, biit the Doctor refused to accept the cattle ; on which account Buys and others looked upon him as a fool, and declared, that though he did not like to take them, they would take good care that the king should nev€r get them back. More than this, Buys, another Gehazi, sent word to Gaika, that the number was not sufHcient for the rain, which induced the latter to send more, all of which Buys reserved for himself, unknown to Vanderkemp at the time. It is impossible to take a review of the character of Van- derkemp under these circumstances, without admiring his devotion to his work, and w^ithout recognizing him as a pioneer of no ordinary character to all subsequent missionary operations in that countjy, now carried on by the London, Glasgow, and Wesleyan Missionary Societies. How in- significant have been the privations and dangers of more modern labourers, when compared with those of Vander- kemp, Kicherer, Anderson, and Albrecht, who first entered those regions of heathenism, introducing the gospel plough and casting the seed into an ungenial soil, where, though in some instances it remained long buried, it eventually pro- duced " an abundance of com in the earth upon the top of the mountains ; the fruit whereof shall shake Uke Lebanon \" To none is this comparison more applicable than to Dr. Van- derkemp. He came from a university tn .■afnnp tn iparh thn al phabet to the poor naked Hottt^ ntot and F"''^,''— :;£i:."'Tff, ^h** soci ety ol nobles, to associate with beings of the lowest grade in the scaJ^l^humajiity:r=|rom stately mansira to_^e filthy hETPeT of the_ greasy Alrican^^from the army, to instruct Ihe fierce savage the" tactics of a heavenly warfare under the banner of the Prince of Peace — from the study of_£hysic, to become die g uide to the balm in TSla aST^mTthp. physician there— an^finally, from a Ufe of earthly honour and ease, to be exposed to perils of waters, of robbers, of his own countrymen, of the heathen, in the city, in the wilderness. All who are acquainted with the history of our African mis- sions, must admit these facts, and say, TAey, indeed, laboured, and we have entered into their labours. The following extract from Kay's " Travels and Re- AWFUL RETRIBUTION. S3 searches in Kafir-land)" cannot be read without d?ep interest : — " The Mission stations in Kaffraria literally constitute folds, surrounded by evil spirits, as well as by beasts of prey ; and all that rally round our stan- dard are like so many sheep gathered togethn but of the wilderness. With- in the last few days several have been added to our number ; amongst whom one whose case is worthy of particular notice. She is an aged Hottentot, who was baptised by the late Mr. Vanderkemp, about thirty years ago. During the short tune spent by that devoted Missionary amonsst the Kafir tribes, ne taught her, and two or three other females, a knowledse of letters. This she afterwards improved by assiduous application, so that she wag at length enabled to read the sacred Scriptures, a copy of which, present- ed by ner venerable tutor, she still retains to this very day. Although, from that time to this she had never enjoyed the privilege of sitting under a Christian ministry, it would, nevertheless, appear that she ever retained a. sense of religion, and a very strong attachment to her Bible. On hear- ing of the establishment of Bntterworth, she anxiously strove to get her heathenish husband (Lochenberg) into the mind for removing to the Mission village, that she mi^t once mure hear the Gospel, and get her poor children instructed. But to this he would never consent, well knowing that his deeds were of such a character as would not bear the light. The measure of his iniquity, however, being full, the hand of violence was permitted to remove him out of the way some months ago ; and the shocking circumstances connected with his death, constitute a striking comment upon that passage of holy writ, ' Consider this, ye that forget God, lest I tear you in pieces, and there be none to deliver.' " He was one of the Dutch farmers who fled from the colony, about the^me when Mr. Vanderkemp was endeavouring to commence his Mission. Professing great regard for the latter on account of his minis- terial character, these fugitives flocked around him, moved when he moved, and encamped where he encamped. They had not been with him long, however, before his faithfulness aroused determined enmity, and they secretly strove to injure him in every possible way. Although some of tnem had taken native wives, and all been obliged to take refuge in the territories of the natives, their deep-rooted prejudices against the latter still continued, insomuch that Mr. Vanderkemp's preaching to them rendered him contemptible in their eyes. ' Whenever they saw him,' said old Saartje, ' go into the bush for prayer or meditation, one or other of the Christi mensche (Christians) immediately ran into his tent to steal. His chests were frequently broken open, and his money taken away, until at last he had scarcely dublejees (pence) sufficient to carry him back to the colony.' " It does not appear that any one of this party died a natural death. ' Faber,' said my informant, who was well acquainted with all the cir- cumstances, ' was afterwards hung in the colony as a rebel, fiajj^ wan- dered about amongst the tribes, murdering and plundering, until be him- self was murdered. Botha was killed by the Kafirs, at the instigation of his companion. The hut in which Bezuidenhoud slept was one night fired by the natives, and he was burnt to death. The Irishman, (a de- serter connected with the band,) together with one of his children, was also burnt to ashes, while asleep, by one of the native women with whom he had lived;' and, as already intimated," Lochenberg himself, 'whom vengeance suffered not to live,' was literally cut to pecea by the Amak- waK, about the middle of 1839." 34 KAFIR MISSION ABANDONED. At the close of the year 1800, Dr. Vanderkemp, owing to a combination of circumstances, left Kafir-land, for Graaff Reinet, principaUy to meet the two brethren, Vanderlingen and Read, and remained a considerable time there, during a rebellion among the farmers. He visited Kafir-land again, but, from the unsettled state of the frontier, was compelled to rehnquish the mission, and return to Graaff Reinet, where he laboured among the Hottentots. 'General Dundas offered means of forming a station in the colony, " to endeavour," as the governor expressed it, " to ameliorate the? spiritual and temporal condition of that imhappy people, whom, upon every principle of humanity and justice, government is bound to protect." CHAPTER III. In February, 1801, Dr. Vanderkemp and Mr. Read, with more than 100 Hottentots, left Graaff Reinet. Their tem- porary residence was appointed at Botha's farm, about seven miles west of Algoa Bay, where they continued with the Hottentots for nearly eight months, leading a life of uninter- rupted anxiety, perplexity and danger, the Doctor being for some time confined to his bed with rheumatism. Though liberally assisted with necessaries by government order from Fort Frederick, they were continually exposed to enemies of different descriptions, and but for God's protecting arm must have been destroyed root and branch. Their institution made them an object of hatred to many of the colonists, who described them as taking part with the plundering Hottentots and Kafirs ; and representing their statioii*,«6 a refuge for robbers and murderers ; while the truth was, that it was an asylum only for those who had separated themselves from such banditti. Notwithstanding this, a government order, to the great sorrow of the mission- aries, prohibited the reception of any Hottentots into this asylum, and those thus repelled, chose to maintain them- selves in the woods, among brutes, rather than return to their own tribes. General Dundas, approving of the Doc- tor's scheme, wished the whole Dartv to remove for safety KINDNESS OF GENERAL DUNDAS. 35 to the fortress, and, regarding the missionaries as dead men if they did not accept of his offer, proposed to them again, as a last resource for the preservation of their Uves, to sail with him to the Cape of Good Hope, and defer the instruc- tion of the Hottentots in that region till a more favourable season j. but to this the Doctor would not consent. To the honour of General Dundas, let it be again re- corded, that, so fully was he convinced of the duty and importance of what was then considered Utopian, that he ordered for the use of the station, from the Bay, (Fort Frederick,) 6000 poimds of rice, 6 casks of salt meat, 200 sheep, 59 labouring oxen, 1 1 milch-cows, 66 horned-cattle, 3 wagons, 1 fishing-net, 1 corn-mill, 2 corn-sieves, and a smith' s-bellows, besides implements of agriculture. Scarcely had this generous action cheered their prospects, when, as they write, — " A troop of jdundering Hottentots attacked our place in the middle of tlie night, and having fired about fifty times with muskets, took away all our cattle. All our endeavours to persuade them to a friendly agreement were in vain ; they did not give any answer but by firing. One of our most esteemed Hottentots approached them, and spoke in a friendly man- ner; but they cried, 'Look, there comes a peace-maker ; kill him, shoot him !' upon which he received a ball in liis^ leg. We hoped they would have been content with our cattle, but it seemed that their intention was to kill us. They made an assault on our dwellings, and, for that purpose made use of our cattle in the Kafrarian manner. Providence so ordered it, that brother Read had laid some newly-sawn planks in the passage, between our house and the next to it. The cattle which they drove be- fore them, were afraid of these, so that they would not go over them, and turned aside. The enemy now saw himself exposed, and our people being in the utmost danger, compelled by self-defehce, fired without being able to take aim, on account of (he darkness ; but the hand of God di- rected a ball in such a way, that the chief of this troop was wounded in the thigh, by which the artery of the thigh was cut through ; the violent effusion of blood put an end to his life in a few minutes ; on this the whole troop fled, leaving behind them all the cattle except eighteen, which in the beginning of the assault had been driven away. Nobody could guess the reason of this unexpected deliverance, for the Hottentots fired but twice. On the following morning the dead body was found, and re- cognised as that of Andries Stuurman, brother of Klaas Stuurman. On the subsequent night we were surrounded again by enemies, but finding that we had moved our cattle from the Kraal within the square, which was surrounded by our houses, and that we had barricadoed all the en- trances to it, they left ns unmolested. But two days after, having got some reinforcement from the Kafirs, they attacked us anew, in the middle of the day, as a part of our cattle was driven to the pasture. They stabbed one of our wood-cutters during the time of his being gone into the wood to pray ; and now they drove away our cattle. All our people attacked them in the greatest confusion, and with fury, leaving the place, with their wives ana children, entirely undefended. They- put the as- sailants to flight, and brought the cat^ back again, except eight ozen, 36 ESCAPE TO PORT PREDERICK. who were either killed or mortally wounded. We always had instructed our people that it was their duty rather to part with their earthly goods ' ' n to sav^ them by killing another ; and that it was not the duty of a Christian to kill any body but when the safety of his own life, or that of a third person, should render it absolutely necessary. But oar Hottentots took another view of the subject, and looked upon themselves as competent to make use of their arms, as well to defend their goods as their lives ; they also showed too plainly that they had obtained a certain degree of pleasure in fighting. We were not at all pleased with this, because our intention was to gain our enemies by a soft and amiable behaviour ; and thus by no means to provoke them by a hostile opposition. Besides this, we foresaw that the enemy, reinforcing himself more and more, at last would be able to lead on a superior power, sufficient to destroy us entirely." These successive attacks induced them very properly to take refuge, with their 300 people, in Fort Frederick. Here they rema/ined for a time, continuing their religious services under circumstances more distressing to the minds of the missionaries than the-horrors of savage fury from which they had escaped. Tney were associated with those who had the misfortune to he comparative strangers to the means of grace, and inured to a recklessness of feehng in regard to eternal realities, which a life of warfare has (we may presume since the days of Cain) produced on trihes once civUized and refined in taste and feeling. This exposed their people to seduction, drunkenness, and other vices After the arrival of General Janssen, the colony having heen ceded to the Dutch, a spot was granted on which to fix a permanent station ; and on the 2nd of June, they took up their abode on Kooboo, which from that period they called Bethelsdorp. This situation, from its sterility and want of water, soon convinced them that it was miost unsuitable for a missionary farm ; and the only wonder is, that it should have been permitted to continue, and even become, in many respects, a sinking fund, while both mis- sionaries and people (a small number) were compelled to live a hungry, selfdenying life. Five years after its com- mencement, they write to the Directors, that they had been without bread for a long time, and did not expect to procure any for three or four months ; neither were there any vege- tables, owing to the barrenness of the soU. This, of course, was a grievous impediment to their labours, and an efiectual barrier to the very objects for which this station was selected ; and it is a kind of madness to expend large sums and great toil on such a waste, except for the purpose of having a modern Tadmor in the vsaldernes.?. Yet, notwithstan<£ng all these discouraging circumstances, many were the de- DEATH OF DK. VANDEUKEMP. 37 monstrations of the Divine Messing on their labours. " The progress also of their scholeirs in learning to read and write, ■was astonishing to them, and above all, their faciUty in acquiring religious knowledge, knowing, as they did full well, the peculiar apathy, stupidity, and aversion to any exertion, mental or corporeal, which characterises the natives." Dr. Vanderkemp having, with true Christian benevolence, pleaded the cause of the oppressed, — ^for there were oppressions, national and individual, whieh We must leave till that day when every one will receive according to the deeds done in the body ; — ^the great struggle commenced which terminated, through the persevering exertions of the Rev. Dr. Phihp, on July 17th, 1828, in the effectual eman- cipation of the Hottentots. AH the contentions, heart-burn- ings, broken heads, and broken hearts which marked the long struggle, will appear hereafter in the page of history, like the conquest of Mexico by Cortez, the colonization of America, or the savagism of our forefathers in their border WEirs, humbling, but instructive mementos to succeeding generations. Dr. V.'s interference in the cause of suffering humanity, or rather his disclosure of some of the wrongs of the Hottentots, led to his being summoned, with Mr. Read, to Cape Town, to appear before an extraordinary commis- sion appointed by Lord Caledon. This was followed by most important results ; for the Doctor having been fully borne out in his facts, his Excellency directed that commis- sioners should personally visit the several districts where enormities had been perpetrated, and that the guilty should be punished. This was among the last public services which Dr. Vanderkemp rendered to that people, who had now been the object of his solicitude for eleven years. He had long contemplated a mission to Madagascar, and though now far advanced in years, his soul burned with youthful ardour to enter on that perilous undertaking. It was in his heart, but the Great Head of the church had otherwise ordained it ; for after a few days' illness, he closed his eyes on- this world, Dec. 15th, 1811, after breathing out the Christian assurance, " All is well" Thus ended the memorable hfe of Dr. Vanderkemp. Avoiding the extravagancies of momentary feeling, which declares that " His equal is not to be found upon earth, and that he was little behind the chiefest apostles of our Lord," we nevertheless cheerfully concede to him this meed of praise. Few men would have encountered the storms which he braved, and, perhaps fewer still have been more 4 38 Vandeeicemp's character. conspiculously distinguished by success in their efforts to emancipate the Hottentots from temporal and spiritual thraldom. Divine Providence, from time to time, in a remarkable manner, raises up men adapted to certain situations, apart from which, they would have been like the flower which "wastes its sweetness in the desert air." Such were Luther, Wicldiffe, Knox, and a host of others ; and though those who well knew and loved Vanderkemp, would charge us with blind partiality, if we placed him on an equality with those distinguished reformers ; yet no less can be said of his labours, than that they were those of an extraordinary man : and considering the time and state of affairs in the colony in which he lived, and the native character of the tribes among whom he laboured, the grace of God made him the honoured instrument of doing wonders. Dr. Vanderkemp was the friend and advocate of civil liberty. The condition of the slaves pressed heavily upon his mind, and the sufferings of those who had embraced the Gospel, made large demands on his almost unbounded generosity; so that he expended nearly lOOOZ. of his personal property in unbinding the heavy burdens, and setting the captives free. It is probably that his extreme sympathy with this enslaved people induced him, with more feeling than judgment, to choose a wife from amongst them. Being a most unsuitable companion for such a person, her subsequent conduct cast a gloom over the remnant of his days of suffering and toil ; and as I have heard it remarked by one who knew him well, undoubtedly accelerated his death. It was from his lips that the Kafirs (a nation of atheists) first heard the Gospel, the theme of Divine love ; and if we cast our eyes over the history of missions, and the successes of the " Mar- tyr of Erromanga," w^e see at once the value of a pioneer of almost any description, and more especially of such a pioneer as Dr. Vanderkemp. He was the first public defender of the rights of the Hottentot. Although his expansive sympathy betrays not unfrequently in his writings what may be deemed instability of purpose, it is obviously attributable to a benevolent desire to grasp the whole of the race, while his eyes, wandering around the tempestuous horizon, sought a haven in which to shelter them from the storm. He counted not his own hfe dear to himself; for when advised for his own safety to leave the Hottentots for a season, his reply was, " If I knew that I should save my own life by leaving them, I should not fear to offer that life for the least child amongst them." In this, though VANDERKEMP'S CHARACTER. 39 wanting in pradence, he displayed a magnanimity of soul which, in other circumstances, would have called forth the applause of a nation. But it may be said that this is a partial view of the cha- racter of this great man ; and it is only just to admit that the Doctor was eccentric ; and many, very many of his personal hardships were seK-inflicted. Though his mission to the Kafirs was a bold, and, in Africa, an unprecedented under- taking, he was always within the reach of civilized men ; and except when Gaika detained him a short time in the country, he had always an asylum open to receive him. His trials in this respect were very different from those of the founders of the Namaqua and Griqua Missions, who were hundreds of miles beyond the abodes of civilized society, and the protecting arm of civil power. In a colonial viUage, where there were many who admired, and were ready to serve him, the Doctor would go out to the water, washing his own hnen ; and frequently at home and abroad, he would dispense with hat, shirt, and shoes, while the patron and ad- vocate of civilization. These were anomalies and shades of character, which of course added nothing to his usefulness, while his ultra notions on the subject of predestination left a leaven in some of the African churches, which it required the labour of many years to remove. It is also but justice to add, that Dr. Vanderkemp was not without sympathy ; there were many noble-minded colonists who took a deep interest in his sufferings and labours ; who felt strong com- passion for the spiritual destitution of the Hottentot race, and the slave population ; and who were hberal in supporting the cause. Stimulated by the example of Vanderkemp and Kicherer, they laboured to promote the kingdom of Christ among the aborigines. These were noble minds who wept over the country's wrongs ; and it is scarcely possible to cgn- ceive the Doctor's feehngs when on his journey to GraafT Reinet, beyond the Gamka River, he came to the house of Mr. de Beer, who, on hearing the object of the party, " re- ceived them with uncommon*joy ;" and calling his family and slaves together, feU upon his knees, and uttered this remarkable prayer :— ^" O Lord, thou hast afHicted me with inexpressible grief in taking my child from me, whom I buried this day ; but now thou rejoicest my soul with joy greater Jthan ail my grief, in showing me that thou hast heard my prayers for the conversion of the Kafirs, and giving me to see this moment the fulfilment of thy promises." He then 40 FIRST MISSION TO AFRICA. addressed himself to them, and sang several psalms and hymns, relative to the caUing of the heathen. Dr. Vanderkemp's death was a stroke severely felt ; but He who had called him from his labotirs, continued to bless the seed sown, under the fostering care of Mr. Read and others. Bethelsdorp, under many difficulties and disadvan- tages, grew and multiplied. New churches were planted at Pacaltsdorp, Theopolis, and other places, through the in- strumentality of the Rev. J. Campbell, in his first visit to Africa, who on that occasion was the means of giving a new impulse to the spirit of missions there, as well as among the churches at home. The Kat River mission was commenced at the sugges- tion of the Hon., now Sir A. Stockenstrom, and was, so far as the plan went, a measure which wiU reflect lasting honour on the memory of that enlightened and Uberal individual.* To the beautifid and fertile Kafir vales, the principal of the Hottentots from Bethelsdorp, Theopolis, and other places, flocked. This was a seasonable movement, as those sta- tions were no longer, after the emancipation of that people, asylums to those who were active and willing to earn a competence elsewhere. The results of the mission at Phi- liptown, and its branches, the members of which had been cuUed from those in the colony, have been .such as to prove that the plan was weU laid, and carried into efiicient opera- tion. The last year's report of Kat River station exhibits 500 rnembers in the church, and 912 children and adults in the schools ; while their subscriptions to the support of the mission are liberal, — though, I am aware,, far from being equal to the entire expenses, as many of the friends of mis- sions have been led to expect, and which was anticipated at Bethelsdorp many years ago. ^ The colonial stations, though deprived of the most influ- ential and intelligent of their inhabitants, continue to strug- gle and prosper. Bethelsdorp still maintains comparative respectability, under the devoted but noiseless labours of Mr. Kitchingman. We have now within the limits of the colony sixteen stations, and about thirty Missionaries. How ♦ The author does not wish it to be understood that he approves of the policy which deprived the Kafirs of that rich and fertile portion of their territories, and gave it to the Hottentots. Bannister, in his "Humane Policy," makes the following very judicious remark on the subject : — " To obtain land for any portion of that oppressed race, is so good an act, that it would be ungracious to look harshly at the mode of doing it, if our character for justice to others were not involved in the particular way chosen." KAFm MISSION RESUMED. 41 would the venerable Vanderkemp gaze, were he to rise, and behold the harvest which has been gathered in, from the people whose ignorance and degradation caUed forth all the sympathies and energies of his enlightened mind ! " The troubles of departeo' years Bring joys unknown before, And soul-refreshing are the tears O'er wounds that bleed no more."* But to return to Kafir-land, where the veteran sowed in tears, but where Missionaries of different societies now reap in joy. It was not before the year 1816, in the month of Julyj that a successful effort was made by Mr. Joseph Wil- liams. At that time, with his wife and child, he took up his abode at the Kat River. Short as Dr. Vanderkemp's la- bours among the Kafirs were, he left a savour of the Gospel behind him, which prepared the way for others, after many long years had roUed by, during which many of the Doctor's acquaintances had been taught, by fearful lessons, not, alas I to admire the nation of whites, but rather to increase their suspicions aud alarms. But Jankanna's (Vanderkemp's) name still diffused a fragrance among the yet untamed and unsubdued Kafirs. Intercourse with the missionary station at Bethelsdorp kept up this deUghtful feeUng ; and Messrs. Read and Williams, in their previous roconnoitering journey, were hailed as the sons of Jankanna. Most auspicious was the commencement of this mission, while the energy and devotedness of Williams, with the party he took with him from Bethelsdorp, were soon likely, under the Divine blessing, to make the wilderness and soli- tary place rejoice. Temporary houses were i^ised, ground was cleared for cultivation, a water-course and dam were in preparation, while the Kafirs assembled for daily instruc- tion ; and the beautiful vale which had often echoed to the din of savage war, was likely soon to become a peaceful Zion, to which the Kafir tribes would repair to hold their solemn feasts. Little more than two years had run their round, when Williams was numbered with the dead. His beloved partner, (now Mrs. Robson,) a woman of no common forti- tude; was his sole attendant in the lonely vale, and saw in her expiring husband the bright prospects they had of per- manent success among the Kafirs, and into which she had entered with all her energies of mind and body, blasted for a season. About to be left with two fatherless babes, her * James Montgomery. 4* 42 Williams's death. circumstances, were such as even her own pen would fail to describe ; but the widow's God was there. Take, for ex- ample, the following extract from her journal. After being enabled to resign her dearest earthly friend, she asked one of the Kafirs if he had " No wish to see his teacher before the Lord took him to himself? ' Yes,' was his reply, ' but I do not like to ask you, because I think it wUl make your heart sore.' He then approached, and sat down by the bed- side. I asked him if he prayed ! ' Yes,' he said. And what do you pray for ? 'I pray the Lord, as he had brought us a teacher over the great sea water, and hath thus long spared him to tell us His word, that He would be pleased to raise him up again to tell us more of that Great Word?' I asked, Do you pray for me ? ' Yes ; I pray that if the Lord should take away your husband from you, he would support and protect you and your little ones in the midst of this wild and barbarous people.' " Cheerless and lonely must have been the first days of her widowhood. She instructed her semi-civilized attendants to prepare the wood, and make a coffin ; and, with a weeping band, followed the desire of her eyes to the silent dust, there to slumber tUl the morning of the resurrection, when He who cuts short his work in righteousness, vidll show that Williams, in his short career, finished the work given him to do. I saw no monument to mark his tomb ; but he has left an imperishable one, in having been the means of lighting. up the torch of Divine truth, which, notwithstanding the political war, strife, and bloodshed which followed between the Kafirs and the Colonists, was not extinguished, but served to lighten the path of those who followed in his wake. To this everj^missionary has borne ample testimony ; and his labours were blessed to an extent far beyond his most sanguine expectations. So much had this good man gained on the confidence of the Kafirs, that Gaika himself, during the season of political discord, had more confidence in the rectitude of the missionary than in any one of the local authorities, or even in the governor himself Thus again was the candle removed from Kafir-land, and the pohcy of that age refused, at that time, to allow another missionary to proceed to water the seed sown by Mr. Wil- liams. Mr. Brownlee was ultimately appointed as mission- ary in the service of government, and commenced a mission at the Chumic in 1820.* He was followed and supported * Mr. Brownlee soon attached himself again to the London Missionary Society, and, continuing ^t his post, has had the honour and happiness to EFFECTS OP THE GOSPEL. 43 by the Glasgow missionaries, and last, though not least, the Wesleyan missionaries entered the field ; and now they pre- sent a band of labourers whose endeavours, if they continue to receive the Divine blessing, bid fair to subdue that people to the sceptre of Jesus, prevent the tapine and bloodshed which characterised by-gone years, and in the late destruc- tive war, and save a nation from ruin. Already the warrior has exchanged the hoarse war song for the anthems of peace and love, while the printing press is called into operation to transfer into their own language the oracles of God. Let us hail the triumph of the cross, by whomsoever it may be borne, as aU have one undivided object, the glory of God in the salvation of man. " Yes, for a season Satan may prevail, And hold as if secure, his dark domain ; ,• The prayers of righteous men may seem to fail, And Heaven's glad tidings be proclaimed in vain. But wait in faith ; ere long shall spring again The seed that seemed to perish in the ground ; And, fertilized by Zion's latter rain, The long-parched land shall laueh, with harvests crown'd. And through those silent wastes Jehovah's praise resound." CHAPTER IV. It is of vast importance to notice the first, though appa- rently obscure indications of the wUl of Him who, while he " Rides upon the stormy sky. And manages the seas," witness the increase of missionary labours in Kafir-land, where he toiled hard, aiid suffered much, long before any others were permitted to enter that country at all. One of bur Wesleyan brethren, fully competent to judge, now in this country, remarks, that "his labours have been inde- fatigable, though unostentatious; and to place this worthy man in his (iroper position, it is not indeed necessary to imitate the unhallowed prac- tice of some, who to accomplish a purpose, or to gratify party spirit, myi- diously and fulsomely cry up one missionary at the expense of his brethren, whose labours, thMbh noiseless, have been far more abundant." The London Missionary Society has now five stations In Kaiirrtend, including one for the Bushmen in the Tambookie country ; tlie two Glasgow So- cieties, six ; and the Wesleyan Society, twelve. 44 ZAK RIVER MISSION. condescends to stoop from his throne amidst unapproachable glory, to render means the most feeble and unthought of, the guide and pole-star of his servants, whom he has commis- sioned to preach the Gospel to every creature. While Dr. Vanderkemp and Edmonds proceeded to Kafir- land, Messrs. Kicherer, Kramer, and Edvsrards bent their course to the Zak River, between 400 and 500 mJles north- east of Cape Town. Who would have supposed for a moment that Kicherer's course, which was originally towards Kafir-land, would have been diverted by Bushmen-ambassadors, the feeblest, poor- est, most degraded and despised of all the sable sons of Ham ? It appears that some time previous, while the church at home was engaged in prayer, that the great Head of the church would open a door for his servants, whom they were sending forth, a treaty had been made between the Bush- men and Floras Fischer, with other farmers, who had suffer- ed terribly in their fl.ocks and herds, from these depredators of the desert. The Bushmen seeing Florus Fischer, who was a good man, solemnly appeal to Almighty God to wit- ness the transaction, and observing that he was in the habit of assembling his family for worship, morning and evening, were led to inquire into the Divine character, and to solicit a Christian teacher. Mr. Fischer cheerfuUy afforded en- couragement; and, though it appeared something like hop- ing against hope, he, at their request, took some of the prin- cipal of them to Cape Town for this purpose. They arrived there just before our brethren, a circum- stance which left the^latter no reason to doubt of being call- ed of God to labour in that quarter. The brethren received unbounded kindness and attention from the government, and assistance from the farmers, who loaded them with things requisite to commence the station ; while some accompanied them to the spot they first selected, which they named " Happy Prospect." Here Messrs. Kicherer and Kramer laboured with primitive zeal and simplicity, to raise the most abject of our species ; and had not their faith been strong in the promises of God, they must have sunk under the very thought of making an attempt. At the present period of advanced knowledge in mission- ary enterprise, however, it is easy to see that according to the common course of events, the circumstances under which that mis^on was commenced, were ominofll of its short du- ration. God, in his infinite wisdom had other, and far more DIFFICULTIES AND SUCCESSES. 45 extensive ends to accomplish, than simply a mission to the" Bushmen. Zak River became the finger-post to the Namaquas. Ca- rannas, Griquas, and Bechuanas ; for it was by means of that mission that these tribes, and their condition, became known to the Christian world. Kircherer had great coiiifort in his intercourse with many good farmers, who exerted themselves with commendable HberaUty in favour of the ob- ject he had in view. He was soon encouraged by the ac- cession of many Hottentots and Bastards to the station, without whose assistance it would not have been possible for him to have lived, as he afterwards found. The Bushmen, with few exceptions, could never appreciate his object ; but, as a people, continued to harass and impoverish those who remained attached to the objects of the missionary. Mr. K.'s life was more than once threatened, but his unremitting labours, and those of Mr. Krame^, were signally blessed in the conversion of a number of Hottentots and Bastards ; and in the details of the mission, the names of individuals are mentioned, who afterwards became the piUars of the Griqua mission ; and from whose lips the writer has frequently heard with delight, the records of by-gone years, when they hsten- ed to the voice of Kicherer, Anderson, and Kramer, at the Zak and Orange Rivers. Unhappily the company and countenance of the Bushmen could not be commanded with- out a daily portion of victuals and tobacco, of which Mr. Kicherer had received an ample supply from the farmers. This practice, however kindly intended, doubtless contributed to the early failure of the mission. The country in which the mission was fixed, was sterile in the extreme, and rain so seldom fell, that they were obliged to depend on foreign supplies. Mr. Kicherer having visited Europe, on his return found the mission in a sufiering state. Having little hope of recruiting it, he entered the Dutch church, and was ap- pointed minister .at Graafi" Reinet. He left the station in charge of Mr. and Mrs. A. Voss ; and a Mr. Botma, a farm- er, who had sold all he had to aid the mission, and supply the absence of Mr. K. These men not having equal re- sources with the founders of the mission, though distinguish- ed by exemplary patience, great privations, and hardships, from drought, and the plund,ering Bushmen, were compelled to abandon the station. This event took place in 1806, and Mr. A. Voss makes the following, pathetic remark on that mission's requiem : " This day we leave Zak River, the place which has cost us so many sighs, tears, and drops of sweatl 46 THE CONDITION OF BUSHMEN. that place in which we have laboured so many days and nights, for the salvation of immortal souls : the place which, probably before long, will become a heap of ruins." Thus terminated the mission to Zak River, on which the directors at home could not help looking with the deepest sympathy, as the people were some of the first-fruits of their labours ; but they were consoled by the reflection, that those who fol-- lowed their teachers to the vicinity of Graaff Reinet, con- tinued to receive instruction, and that the missionaries enter- ed into other fields of successful labour. When the character and condition of the Bushmen are taken into consideration, it is not to be wondered at, that the Missionaries found it up-hill work to obtain a settlement among them. With the exception of the Troglodytes, a people said by Pliny to exist in the interior of Northern Africa, no tribe or people are surely more brutish, ignorant, and miserable, than the Bushmen of the interior of Southern Africa. They have neither house nor shed, neither flocks nor herds. Their most delightful home is " afar in the desert," the unfrequented mountain pass, or the secluded recesses of a cave or ravine. They remove from place to place, as convenience or necessity requires. The man takes his spear, and suspends his bow and quiver on his shoulder; while the woman frequently, in addition to the burden of a helpless infant, carries a mat, an earthen pot, a number of ostrich egg-shells, and a few ragged skins, bun- dled on her head or shoulder; and these Saabs, as they have been designated, bearing in their character a striking resemblance to the Sauneys, or Balala, (poor,) among the Bechuanas, have, with few exceptions, as already shown, been from time immemorial the sons of the field. Accus- tomed to a migratory life, and entirely dependent on the chase for a precarious subsistence, they have contracted habits which could scarcely be credited of human beings. These habits have by no means been improved by incessant conflict with their superior neighbours, who, regarding might as identical with right, kill their game, plunder their honey nests, seize upon their fountains, and deprive them of their country. Anomalous as it may appear, this has been the custom of all the more civilized tribes, the colonists not excepted. Dr. Lichtenstein asks, '' What had a people like the Bushmen to lose — ^they who are every where at home, who know not the value of any land 1" To this I would reply, Hfe loses the means of subsistence ; and what more can the rishest monarch lose ? I recollect having felt grate- BUSHMEN RESOURCES AND HABITS. 47 ful to a poor Bushwoman for a meal of the larvae of ants ; and had that otherwise intelligent traveller been similarly circumstanced, he, perhaps, would have been tempted to say, " Behold, I am at the point to die, and what profit shall this birthright do to me ?" Under such circumstances, the gems of Golconda would not have satisfied the cravings of hunger. Poor Bushman! thy hand has been against every one, and every one's hand against thee. For genera- tions past they have been hunted like partridges in the mountains. Deprived of what nature had made their own, they became desperate, wild, fierce, and indomitable in their habits. Hunger compels them to feed on every thing edible. Ixias, vsdld garlic, mysembryanthemums, the core of aloes, gum of acacias, and several other plants and berries, some of which are extremely unwholesome, constitute their fruits of the field ; while almost every kind of hving creature is eagerly devoured, hzards, locusts, and grasshoppers not excepted. The poisonous, as well as innoxious serpents, they roast and eat. They cut ofi" the head of the former, which they dissect, and carefully extract the bags, or reser- voirs of poison, which communicate with the fangs of the upper jaw. They mingle it with the milky juice of the euphorbia, or with that of a poisonous bulb. After simmer- ing for some time on a slow fire, it acquires the consistency of wax, with which they cover the points of their arrows. Though the natives of South Africa have an aversion to fish, the Bushmen in the neighbourhood of rivers make very ingenious baskets, which they place between stones, in the centre of a current, and thus they sometimes procure a fry offish, which in their frequent necessity must be acceptable. They ascend the mountain's brow or peak, and, with an acuteness of sight perhaps superior to our common teles- copes, survey the plains beneath, either to discover game or cattle, or to watch the movements of those whose herds they may have stolen. If danger approaches, they ascend almost inaccessible cliffs, from which nothing but the rifle baU could. dislodge them. When closely pursued, they will take refuge in dens and caves, in which their enemies have sometimes smothered scores to death, blocking up the entrances with brushwood, and setting it on fire. One characteristic in their predatory expeditions is ex- ceedingly provoking. When they have taken a troop of cattle, their first object is to escape to a rendezvous, a cave or an overhanging precipice, or some sequestered spot difficult of access to strangers for want of water. As soon 48 PROVOKING CHAB.ACTEEISTIOS. as they perceive that any of the cattle are too fatigued to proceed, they stah them ; and if the pursuers come vrithin sight, and there is the slightest probability of their being overtaken, they will thrust their spears, if time permit, into every animal in the troop. I have known sixty head level- led in this way. This habit, which obtains universally among that unfortunate people, exasperates their enemies to the last degree, and vengeance falls on men, women, and children, whenever they come within reach of their missiles. Though their poisoned arrows cannot take in one-third of the length of a musket-shot, they aim vidth great precision. I have known men shot dead on the spot with poisoned arrows, and others who did not at first appear to be mortally wounded, I have seen die in convulsive agony in a few hours. It is impossible to look at some of their domiciles, without the inquiry involuntarily rising in the mind — are these the abodes of human beings? In a bushy country, they will form a hollow in a .central position, and bring the branches together over the head Here the man, his wife, and probably a child or two, he huddled in a heap, on a little grass, in a hollow spot, not larger than an ostrich's nest. Where bushes are scarce, they form a hollow imder the edge of a rock, covering it partially with reeds or grass, and they are often to be found in fissures and caves of the mountains. When they have abundance of meat, they do nothing but gorge and sleep, dance and sing, tUl their stock is exhausted. But hunger, that imperious ma.ster, soon drives him to the chase. It is astonishing to what a distance they will run in pursuit of the animal which has received the fatal arrow. I have seen them, on the successful return of a hunting party, the merriest of the merry, exhibit- ing bursts of enthusiastic joy ; while their momentary happi- ness, contrasted with their real condition, produced on my mind the deepest sorrow. Many suffer great distress when the weather is cold and rainy, during which not unfrequently their children perish from hunger. A most inhuman prac- tice also prevails among them, that when a mother dies, whose infant is not able to shift for itself, it is, without any ceremony, buried alive with the corpse of its mother.* To the above melancholy description, may be added the testimony of Mr. Kicherer, whose circumstances while living among them, afforded abundant opportunities of becoming * The author had a boy brought up in his own house, who was thus rescued from his mother's grave, when only two years old. CRUELTV TO OFFSPRING. 49 intimately acquainted with their real condition. " Their manner of life is extremely wretched and disgusting. . They delight to besmear their bodies with the fat' of animals, mingled with ochre, and, sometimes with grime. They are utter strangers to cleanliness, as they never wash their bo- dies, but suffer the dirt to accumulate, so that it will hang a considerable length from their elbows. Their huts are form- ed by digging a hole in the earth about three feet deep, and then maMng a roof of reeds, which is however insufficient to keep off the rains. Here they lie close together hke pigs in a sty. They are extremely lazy, so that nothing will rouse them to action but excessive hunger. They will continue several days together without food rather than be at the pains of procuring it. When compelled to sally forth for prey, they are dexterous at destroying the various beasts which abound in the country ; and they can run almost as well as a horse. They are total strangers to domestic hap^ piness. The men have several wives, but conjugal affection is little known. They take no great care of their children, and never correct them except in a fit of rage, when they almost kUl them by severe usage. In a quarrel between fk- ther and mother, or the several wives of a husband, the de- feated party wreaks his or her vengeance on the child of the conqueror, which in general loses its life. Tame Hottentots seldom destroy their children, except in a fit of passion ; but the Bushmen will kill their children without remorse, on va- rious occasions ; as when they are ill-shaped, when they are in want of food, when the father of a child has forsaken its mother, or when obhged to flee from the farmers or others ; in which case they will strangle them^ smjother them, cast them away in the deseift, or bury them alive. There are in- stances of parents throwing their tender offspring to the hun- gry lion, who stands roaring before their cavern, refusing to depart tiU. some peace-offering be made to Imn. In general their children cease to be the objects of a'mother's care as soon as they are able to crawl about in the field. In some few instances, however, you meet with a spark of natural affection, which places them on a level with the brute crea- tion." Oh the miseries to which human nature is heirl Hard is the Bushman's lat, friendless, forsaken, an outcast from the world, greatly preferring the company of the beasts of prey to that of civflized man. Hisgorah* soothes some • The gorah is an instrument soihetMhg like the bow of a violin,' rather more curved, along which i@. sttetohed a catrgut, to which, is attached a. small piece of quill. The player takes the quijl in his m8Utb,:and bjri 5 50 MISSION TO TOOIINBERG. solitary hours, although its sounds are often responded to hy the lion's roar, or the hyena's howl. . He knows no God, knows nothing of eternity, yet dreads death ; and has no shrine at which he leaves his cares or sorrows. We can scarcely conceive of human beings descending lower in the scale of^gnoranoe and vice ; while yet there cai^ be no question that they are children of one common parent with ourselves, if, during a period of 4000 years, they have sunk thus low, what would the world become if left without Di- vine revelation, to grope in the mazes of heathen darkness? But, degraded as the Bushmen really are, they can be kind, and hospitable too; faithful to their charge, grateful for fa- vours, and susceptible of kindness. I speak from what I know, having seen aU these qualities exemplified. It is edso habitual with them, on receiving the smallest portion of food, to divide it with their friends ; and generally it is observed the one who first received the boon, retained the least for himself; and a hungry mother will not unfrequently give, ■what she may receive, to her emaciated children, without tasting it herself In order to get the people to congregate, Mr. Kicherer found it necessary to give them daily a little food, and especially smaU portions of tobacco, with which he was most liberally supplied by the farmers. " Without that," he says, "it would have been impossible to bring these poor people to any means of instruction, as they are com- pelled continually to go from one place to another for food." While, however, the message of Divine mercy at times made an impression so great, that the missionaries were led to suppose that they had surmounted every difficulty ; they w^ere again humbled and grieved to see, as they expressed it, the natural inconstancy of the Bushmen reverse every promising sign. The Directors of the London Missionary Society, most anxious to impart to this degraded portion of the human fa- mily, the means *of grace, recommended the establishment of a station for that object at Toomberg, now Colesberg, south of the Great River ; and Mr. Erasmus Smith and Mr. Corner repaired thither in 1814, when about 600 Bushmen took up their abode with them. The missionaries were thus cheered by a people waiting to receive theril ; but their joy was of short duration. A long and mortal enmity had ex- isted between the Bushmen and the farmers ; and they soon began to suspect that the missionaries were employed only strong inspirations and ..respirations of breath, produces a few soft notes in the vibrations of the cat-gut. MR. rAURE's APPECTING STATEMENT. 51 as instruments to betray liiem into their hands. Groundless as this suspicion was, it nevertheless so operated for a while as to damp the zeal of the missionaries. They very natu- rally .expected that it would require a long aiid laliorious course of culture and tuition before such pupils could be ex- pected even to apprehend the doctrines of Christianity. This, however, was not the case. The light and power of the Gospel at an early period of the mission, accompanied the proclamatiou of its glad tidingE,'and a number of these bar- barous people, when they heard the word of life, believed. And here a Christian bhurch arose, extensive gardens were laid out, and these cultivated with the Bushmen's own hands. Another mission was commenced among that people at Hephzibah, where there was a prospect of permanent suc- cess. It was however found extremely difBcult, from the Bushmen coming into unpleasant contact with the farmers in their vicinity, and the missionaries being brought into col- hsion on their account. These evil^to which their locality exposed them, soon proved the meansJof blasting their pleas- ing hopes aniong that people. An order was received from the Cape authorities, requiring the missionaries to retire with- in the colony. Thus ceased the operations of the Society among the poor wild Bushmen at these stations ; and it is impossible to read the following extract of a letter to the Rev. Dr. Philip, from the Rev. A. Faure, then minister of Graaff Reinet, without deeply lamenting with that enlight- ened individual, that these stations should have been broken up. ' " Some of the Bushmen whbm Mr. Smith baptized, had acquired very rational ideas of the principles of the Christian religion ; and appeared to feel its constraining in- fluence on their habitual conduct. They were zealous in trying to convey the same inestimable blessing to their un- happy countrymen, who live without God and without hope in the world. It was deUghtful to hear the children sing the praises of Jehovah, and to witness; the progress they had made in speUing and reading. These facts, which have come under my own observation, prove that conversion of this race of immortal beings is not impossible." The last effort of the Society to establish a mission among that people, was attempted in the vicinity of the Caledon River. Captain A. Kok, the late chief of PhilippoUs, most munificently presented the Bushmen who congregated at that place, with a good supply of cattle, sheep, and goats. This missiouj. now called Bethulje, was a,fterwards trans- 52 REVIEW OF BUSHMEN MISSIOKo. ferred by Dr. Philip to the missionaries of the Paris Society ;, and it has since become a Bechuana mission, where the word of God has had free course, and been glorified. The proximity of the place to the gradual encroachments of those whom the Bushmen dreaded, influenced them to leave the spot, so that now few remain, nor is it any longer a Bushman station.* In taking a brief review of the Bushmen Missions, we cannot help being struck with the depravity and ignorance of the people, the zeal and perseverance of the missionaries, ■ the power of Gospel truth, and the dreadful guilt of those who have been directly the cause of frustrating the objects of the Missionary Society, which is the only one that has espoused the cause of that afflicted people. Shall not the Lord require it ? for the blood of thoasands cries from the du^t, and the cry has entered into the ears Of the Lord- of Sabaoth. Can we wonder that the Bushmen missions, under the circumstances in which they have been placed, should, upon the whole, prove a failure, though not without important results^ We must continue to look for success in attracting the scattered fragments^ to the Missionary settlements, andi forming out-stations among them, a method which has al- ready neceived the Divine blessing. This plan has been carried on at our Griqua mission, from its commencement to th6> present day ; and those established in connexion with the Kat River are promising. This mode of proceeding with that people cannot be too strongly recommended to those who are labouring among their more powerful neighbours. When once a number of these are savingly converted to God, and feiel the constraining influence of the love of Christ, they wiU become valuable auxiliaries to the missionary, in collecting'- them around their. villages and cattle out-posts, and thus, by kind endeavours, bring them within the benign and transforming influences of the Gospel of loVe. ' Kindness is the key to the human heart.' I know aii in- dividual who was struck with the difiiculties the Bushwo- men had in rearing their infants after the term of suckling, from the entire absence of any thing in the shape of mUk or grain. Dried meat, or Ixia bulbs, is hard fare for a babe. He tried to persuade them to purchase goats, with ostrich feathers, or skins of game procured in the chase. At this proposal they laughed inordinately, asking him if ever their * For a more particular account of the Tbornberg and Hephzibah mis* fliohs, see Dr. Philip's Reseaichee in .South Africa, vol. ii. p.' SS'. STRATAGEM IN HUNTING. 53 forefathers kept cattle ; intimating, that they were not in- tended to keep, but to eat, as their progenitors had always done. He recommended the plan to all who happened to come in his way, but with no better success. It at last oc- curred to his mind to present some of the principal individu- als among them with a few goats a-piece. This he did, promising that, if they took good care of them for a given time, he would add to their number, and make them iheir own. This proposal, though to them scarcely to be believed, went to their hearts ; and the very looks of the men, and the grateful gesticulations of the women, were felt by the missionary as a rich reward. His anticipations were fuUy realized. They allowed their httle flocks to increase, and even took some trouble to make additions by .barter ; and it was no uncommon thing to see several of these resorting to the house of prayer on sabbath-days, though their homes were many miles distant One of the accompanying sketches represents a Bushman and a woman. The man has his bows, quiver, and poisoned arrows ; and both he and the female are fair specimens of the general appearance of that people. The other sketch exhibits a stratagem, by which the Bushman approaches to game, in the garb of the ostrich. The method is ingenious, though extremely simple. A kind of flat double cushion is stufied with straw, and formied something like a saddle. All, except the under part of this, is covered over with feathers, attached to small pees, and made so as to resemble the bird. The neck and head of an ostrich are stuffed, and a small rod introduced. The Bushman intending to attack game, whitens his legs with any substance he can procure. He places the feathered saddle on his shoulders, takes the bottom part of the neck in his right hand, and his bow and poisoned arrows in his left. Such as the writer has seen were the most perfect mimics of the ostrich, and at a few- hundred yards distant it is not possible for the human eye to detect the fraud. This human bird appears to pick away at the verdure, turning the head as if keeping a sharp look-out, shakes his feathers, now walks, and then trots, till he gets within bow-shot; and when the flock runs from one receiving an arrow, he runs too. The male ostriches will on some occasions give chase to the strange bird, when he tries to elude them, in a way to prevent their catching his scent ; for when once -they do, the spell is broken. Should one hap- pen to get too near in pursuit, he has only to run to wind- ward, or throw off his saddle,' to avoid a stroke froin awing, which would lay him prostrate. 5* CHAPTER V. > Great Namaqua-land, as it is usually called, lies north of the«Orange River, on the western coast of Africa, between the 23° and 28° of south latitude ; bounded on the north by the Damaras, and on the east by an extensive sandy desert, called by Mr. Campbell the Southern Zara, or Zahara. In the month of January, 1 806, the Orange, or Gariep River, was crossed by missionaries of the London Missionary Society, for the purpose of planting the Gospel among the inhabitants of that wild and desolate region. Before enter- ing into a detail of painful and pleasing events, which mark- ed the whole course of the bold, self-denying, and dangerous enterprise of the two Albrechts and their associates, it will be proper briefly to sketch the character of the country, and the circumstances connected with the early efforts of these men of God, to sow the seeds of the everlasting Gospel in a most ungenial soil. As an inhabited country, it is scarcely possible to conceive of one more destitute and miserable ; and it is impossible to traverse its extensive plains, its rugged, undulating surface, and to descend to the beds of its ■waterless rivers, without viewing it as emphatically " a land of droughts," bearing the heavy curse of . " Man's first disobedience, and the fruit Of that forbidden tree, whose mortal taste Brought death into the world, and all our woe.'' Meeting with an individual, on my journey thither, who had spent years in that country, I asked what was its charac- ter and appearance ? " Sir," he replied, " you will find plenty of sand and stones, a thinly scattered popixlation, always suffering from want of water, on plains and hills roasted like a burnt loaf) under, the scorching rays of a cloudless sun." Of the truth of this description I soon had ample demonstration. It is intersected by the Fish and 'Oup Rivers, with their niimberless tributary streams, if §uch their dry and often glowing beds may be termed. Some- times, for years together, they are not known to run; when, after the stagnant pools are dried up, the natives congregate to their beds, and dig holes, or wells, in some instances to TOPOGRAPHY OP NAMAQUA-LAND. 65 the depth, of twenty feet, from which they draw water, generally, of a very inferior quaKty. They place branches of trees in the excavation, and, with great labour, under a hot sun, hand up the water in a wooden vessel, and pour it into an artificial trough ; to which the panting, lowing herds approach, partially to satiate their thirst. Thunder storms are eagerly anticipated, for by these only rain falls; and frequently these storms will pass over with tremendous vio- lence, striking the inhabitants with awe, while not a single drop of rain descends to cool and fructify the parched waste. When the heavens do let down their watery treasures, it is generally in a partial strip of country, which the electric cloud has traversed ] so that the traveller will frequently pass, almost instantaneously, from ground on which there is not a blade of grass, into tracts of luxuriant green, sprung up after a passing storm. Fountains are indeed few and far between, the best very inconsiderable, frequently very salt, and some of them hot springs ^ while the soil contigu- ous is generally so impregnated with saltpetre, as to crackle under the feet, like hoar-frost, and it is with great diificulty that any kind of vegetable can be made to grow. Much of the country is hard and stony, interspersed with plains of deep sand. There is much granite ; and quartz is so abun- dantly scattered, reflecting such a glare of light from the rays of thei sun, that the traveller, if exposed at noon-day, can scarcely allow his eyeUds to be suiEciently open to enable him to keep the course he wishes to pursue. The inhabitants are a tribe or tribes of Hottentots, dis- tinguished by all the singular characteristics of that nation, which includes Hottentots, Corannas, Namaquas, and Bush- men. Their peculiar clicking language is so similar, that it is with Uttle difficulty they converse with the two former. In their native state the aborigines, though deeply sunk in ignorance, and disgusting in their manners and mien, were neither very warlike nor bloody in their dispositions. The enervating influence of climate, and scanty sustenance, seem to have deprived them of that tjold marti^ spirit which dis- tinguishes the tribes who live in other parts of the interior, which, in comparison with Namaqua-land, may be said to " flow with milk and honey." With the exception of the solitary traveller, whose objects were entirely of a scientific character, those who vMitured into the interior carried on a system of cupidity, and perpetrated deeds, calculated to make the worst impression upon the minds of the natives, and in- fluence them to view white men, and others descended from 56 PRIVATIONS OP THE FIRST MISSIONARIES. them, as an " angry" race of human beings, only fit to be classed with the lions, -which roar for their prey in their na- tive wilds. Intercourse with such visitors in the southern districts, and disgraceful acts of deceit and oppression, com- mitted by sailors from ships which visited Angra Piquena, and other places on the western coast, had, as may easily be conceived, the most baneful influence on the native tribes, and nurtured in their heathen minds (naturally suspicious) a savage disgust for all intercourse with white men, alas I professedly Christian. Having little to talk about, when they met, these subjects became their general theme. Such was the long, and deep-rooted impression made on their minds, as a people, that on one of the branches of the Fish River, far east of Mr. Schmelen's station at Bethany, when I asked a native why he had never visited the missionary station; his reply was, " Ihave been taught from my infancy to look upon Hat men (hat-wearers) as the robbers and mur- derers of the Namaquas. Our friends and parents have been robbed of their cattle, and shot by the hat-wearers." Many runaways, and characters reckless of law, abandoning the service of the farmers in the colony, fled to Great Namaqua- land, and their influence went far in stirring up the native mind against all compromise on the part of their civilized neighbours. It was to such a people, and to such a coun- try, that the missionaries directed their course, to lead a life of the greatest self-denial and privation. From a variety of untoward circumstances, their expe- rience on the journey from Cape Town to the place of their destination, seemed a precursor, and preparation for future trials, and to them the journey must have formed a striking contrast to European travelling, and the endeared home of the friends they had left never again to behold in the flesh. In their journal they detail numerous difficulties with which they had to contend in their progress. They had a weak and imperfect supply of oxen to draw their wagons, some fainting, and others incapable of being yoked. Their wagons stuck fast in the sand, then in the river. They were compelled to leave oxen behind, and they suffered excessively from thirst, as the water was scarce and nau- seous. They were una,ble to obtain, from their poverty and the locality, a sufficiency of food to supply the calls of hunger. Their spirits drooped, and though their courage did not fail, the foUovidng letter shows that they were alive to the nature of their situation, THEIR FEELINGS. 57 " We had no prospect of being soon among the people^ and could eanfy CSJcuIate that we should not have sufiicient to last till we had an oppsiv tunity of purchasing for slaughter. The Lord brings us now into paths, where we must by experience learn to pray, ' Give us this da.y our daily bread.' We have not only to take care of our own provisions in the parched deserts, but also of those who conduct the wagons. Besidies, the 36 rix-doUars (about 31.) we had remaining to carry us from the Rode- sand, were almost expended, and we were still at a considerable distance from the Kamies Berg. To say nothijig of the country of the Great Namaquas, where we hope to find the place of our destination, it is very grievous for me and my brethren, that we are sent to make such a long journey, through the dreary parts of Africa, with so little money and pro- visions : we being altogether eleven in number, who cannot live upon the air. We acknowledge that through love we gave ourselves up to that service as well as other brethren ; and we are also convinced that our worthy brethren, the Directors, would not suffer us first to stand in need, ajid then be willing to help Us when there shpuld be no opportunity, or when it might be too late to deliver us from trouble and danger. We were never in our lives so perplexed, to think what we shoiud eat or drink, as we have reason to do at present ; not only to our grief, hut that also of our people in this dry sandy desert, where we are deprived of hu- man assistance, but must rejoice when able to get just a dnnk of water, which is mostly brack or saltish. But all sufferuig we meet with in the journey or in the service of our Lord, we shall patiently bear for the sake of our Lord Jesus. Yet when we and our peoplfe sufer by famine, and we think the same rmglU have been prevented — and who knows how long we must remain in this perilous situation 1 — then it is very sorrowful for brethren, who have abandoned their livelihood, country, and friends, and have given themselves up to the service of our great Sender, the Lord Jesus, thus to endure. But we trust God will protect us, and will not let us come to shame." These were only some of their trials, while yet within the boundary of the colony, and at no great distance from the abodes of civilized men; as they'dtew near the sphere of their intended labours, their spirits revived, though their troubles and reasonable fears did not diminish ; for, having passed the boundary of the colony, they add, — " In this place, which is called Bushman-country, there is as little water as there is grass to be found. One must hunger and thirst, and be in continual dang'er of being devoured by wild beasts, or murdered." It is pleasing to see that, amidst these privations, their devotedness to the iflamortalintereSts of the heathen contin- ued unwavering, even though they weife fully satisfied that much suffering and distress of mind might have been prevented by some whose duty it was to direct and assist; "Dear brethren," they write, addregsiiig the Directors,* "we have gon^ through many difficulties, of which nobody can form an idea, who * It' should be borne in mind, that at that time our missions were prin- jsipally iinng and re-taking a herd of cattle. By means of the large drove and bushes, each had managed to conceal hinlself Sud- denly a passage opening in the troop, which exposed the en- raged combatants to each other's view, their rifles were in- stantly levelled. The moment they touched the triggers, a cow darted' in between, and the two balls lodged in the cen- tre of the animal, which fell dead On the spot. But for this interposition, both would, in all probabilitsr, have fallen, as they were miost expert marksmen. Titus, a man who could take his gun in the dead of night, enter an immense deep pool in the Orange River, swim to the centre, take his seat on a rock just above the surface of the water, and wait the approach of a hippopotamus, which he would shoot just as it opened- its monstrous jaws to seize him. A man who would deliberately smile the moment' he laid the Uon dead ■ at his feet. This man, who appeai-ed incapable of fear, and reckless of danger, could not help acknowledging being most powerfully struck' with his escape from the ball of his antag- onist, and would say to me when I referred to the fact, "Mynheer knows how to use the only hammer which makes my hard heart feel." Nicholas finished his Christian course under the pastoral care of the Rev. T. L. Hodgson, Wesleyan missionary at Boochuap. His end' was peace. CHAPTER VI. From the preceding description, -which, though a mere glance at Africaner's character, or like a single leaf from which a volume might be produced, it may be seen that it ■was a most desirable object for the missionaries to make him and his people the centre of their labours, or otherwise to obtain a sphere sufficiently distant to prevent any thing like collision between the people of their charge and so formida- ble a neighbour. Humaiily speaking, had the former plan been adopted, the evils which succeeded might have been prevented. The latter, for reasons obvious to the missiona- ries, was unfortunately chosen, and they removed to the Warm Bath, about 100 miles west of the neighbourhood of Africaner. Taking up this place, as likely to become a permanent abode, they pitched their tent, though there was nothing lovely hi its appearance, the neighbourhood being bare and sterile ; and the small portion of ground capable of being irrigated by the hot spring, so salt that little could be expect- ed to grow. People and water were, however, the objects of the missionaries' pursuit; and of all places they had seen or heard of, this was the most hkely in which to congregate a tolerable, though at most a small, community. Here they resumed their labours of love, casting the heavenly seed in the hearts of their hearers. These were composed of a mixed multitude of Namaquas, and Bastards from the colo- ny, (called on that account Oorlams,) whom they, as well as other missionaries, found it difficult to manage. Origi- nating in the colony, proud of their superior knowledge, and having a smattering of the Dutch language, they stood high in their own estimation, and despised the aborigines. This, in many instances, gave rise to dissension, discord and war, so as even to overthrow the labours of the missionaries, and turn a thriving settlement into desolation. For a season the prospects of the brethren continued cheering, their labours being blessed. They were " instant in season and out of season " to advance the temporal and and spiritual interests of the natives, though labouring in a debilitating climate, and in want of the common necessaries 65 DEATH OF A. ALBRECHT. of life. Their table, for a long time, the lid of a wagon- chest, was covered with the most scanty fare. One feels at a loss, while reading then- journals and letters at this season, which most to admire, their zeal, their self-denial, or their resignation to a life of hardship. While labouring here, their congregation was increased even by that desperado Africaner, who, wdth part of his people, drew near, and at- tended occasionally the instructions of the missionaries, who visited his place in return. It was here, and at this time, that Jager, afterwards Christian Africaner, hstened with at- tention to the first principles of the doctrine of Christ j and it was to this period that he frequently referred in his com- munications with me ; that he saw " men as trees walking." But this was but a transient glimpse; for a degree of jealousy, and perhaps alarm, was excited in the minds of the inhabi- tants on the station, which influenced Africaner to retire to his wonted distance, with the full consent of the missionaries, who, had it been in their power, would gladly have prevented the separation. Abraham Albrecht soon after married ; but, ere long, he was compelled by ill health to leave the station, andproceed to the colony, where he hoped that, by medical advice, and attention to regimen, his system might be restored. His frame was not naturally strong, and his constitution iU able to weather the hardships which had marked his short career. On the 14th of May, 1810, he took an afliectionate and touching farewell of the flock at Warm Bath, and, ac- com.panied by his brother Christian, left Mr. Tromp to carry on the work of the mission. After a journey, trying and tedious in the extreme to a sick man, he reached the hospi^ table mansion of Mr. and Mrs. Botma, the faithful and der votedfriendsof missionaries, at Honing Berg, near Tulbagh, where he finished his earthly course on the 30th of July. Shortly before he fell asleep in Jesus he read a chapter, and conversed on its contents. To the inquiry how he felt, he replied, " I go to Jesus ; I am a member of his body." The writer has stood by his grave with his widow (now Mrs. Eb- ner) who, pointing to it with much feeling, referred to his tranquil passage into eternity, his deep anxiety for the heathen flock he had left, and the charge he gave his at- tendants, entreating them to " cleave unto the Lord." Im- mediately after this event. Christian Albrecht, who had pro- ceeded to Cape Town, was married to Miss Burgman, a lady of superior education and promise, who had long burned with a holy zeal to encounter the perils of the wilderness, to make known the savour of a Redeemer's name among the MURDER Of HANS DRAYER. 67 perishing SOUS and daughters. of Africa. For tliis purpose, as her hiographer states, " she cheerfully relinquished all the gratifications that a pleasing connexion with her pious and respectable friends at Rotterdam afibrded, ready to encounter the privations and hardships which she fully expected." Eminently qualified for her intended station, and fondly anticipating many .successful years in the work which had so long been the cherished purpose of her soul, she left with her husband for the scene of her labours in Great Namaqua- land, taking witL them the widow and child . of their de- parted brother. On their arrival she entered on her long- anticipated labour with the utmost ardour ; but, alas ! a heavy cloud was gathering, which, in a few months, darkened their cheering prospects, and burst on the mission, which had just begun to bid fair for permanent success. An event so painful and destructive to the mission cause, win require some notice being taken of its origin ; which I shall give nearly in the language of the late Rev. J. Camp- bell, in his tract, " The Life of Aflacaner," with sHght cor- rections and additions. " Africaner being an outlaw, could not visit the colony or Cape Town, and in order to procure supplies, employed others. He entrusted Hans Drayer with three teams, or thirty oxen, commissioning him to purchase a wagon for Africaner, with the twenty, and with the remaining ten, to bring it home : and at the same time allowing an ample reward for Hans. He had not gone far into the colony before he met a farmer to whom he owed a large debt, and who very naturally seized the whole. Hans re- turned chop-fallen to Mr. Seidenfaden's missionary station at Kamies- berg, of which he had the charge during Mr. S.'s absence. Africaner hearing of what had happened, went in quest of Hans, whom he expected to find humble, but who was insolent to the last degree. On thdr punish- ing him with a sambock, he seized a gun, and levelled it at Africaner, but he was instantly despatched." Mr. Seidenfaden having left debts behind him, an^ong thp Great Namaquas, and some of the Africaners, a portion of his property was seized. After this the friends of Hans, with the assistance of the Namaquas, sought revenge on the people of Africaner, but not succeeding, obtained assistance from the people of Warm Bath. This, with a false report that they had taken some of his cattle, and that the mission- aries were their abettors, dreadfully enraged Africaner, who vowed vengeance on the mission. The situation of the missionaries and their wives was now most distressing. Among a feeble and timid people, with scarcely any means of defence, a bare counlry around, no 68 PAINFUL DTtEMMA. mountain-glen or cave in which, they could take refuge, a burning sun, and a glowing plaint; 200 miles from the abodes of civifized men, between which lay a waste-howling wilder- ness, and the Orange River, seldom fordable by wagons. Such was their position with the human lion in his lair, ready to rouse himself up to deeds of rapine and blood. This is no coloured picture, for the writer has with his family been placed in circumstances not dissimilar : experience is requisite to aid in just conceptions of so trying a moment. For a whole month they were in constant terror, hourly ex- pecting the threatened attack. The hearts of the missiona- ries were riven w^ith anguish ; their souls revolted at the idea of abandoiuhg the people, who were now soffering from want, to become a prey to one from whom they could ex- pect no quarter. On one occasion they dug square holes in the ground, about six feet deep, that in case of an attack they might escape the balls ; there they remained buried alive for the space of a week, having the tilt sail of the wagon thrown over the mouth of the pit to keep off the burning rays of an almost vertical sUn. As one of the suf- ferers told me, she scarcely knew whether they had to suffer most by day or by night; for the heat sometimes amounted nearly to suffocation. From this place they removed at the suggestion of Fledermuis, a chief, northward to the base of the Karas mountains ; but finding it impossible to settle, they retired to the colony to seek counsel and assistance. But to return to Africaner. He spread devastation around him, attacked the Namaquas, and proceeded to Warm Bath. Finding it abandoned, his followers com- menced a rigid search for any articles which might have been concealed for safety in the earth, and were but too successful. While the plunderers were engaged in their destructive operations, an incident occurred, almost too ludicrous for so melancholy a recital. As the triumphant chief and his adherents were revelling in their ill-gotten spoils, not without some qualms of conscience, derived from the light, however Httle, which they had received, especially as they now stood upon holy ground, which recalled the scenes of by-gone days, one of the chieftain's attendants strayed into the burying-gjound, where already a few mounds distinguished it from the surrounding waste as the place of the dead. Stepping oyer what he supposed a newly closed grave, he heard, to his surprise, soft notes of music vibrate beneath. He stood motionless, gazing over his shoulder, with mouth and eyes dilated, hesitating A CURIOUS EXHUMATION. 69 whether to stand still, and see the dead arise, which he had heard the missionaries preach about,- or take to his heels. After no little palpitation of heart, in order-, to assure him- self, he mustered courage to> make another trial, for the tones he had heard had died away. His second leap again roused the sepulfl^ral harp, which now fell in soft but awful cadence on his ear. Without casting an eye behind, he darted off to the camp, and; with breathless amazement, announced to Africaner the startling discovery he had made of life and music in the grave. The appearance of the man convinced Africaner that he was in earnest, for reason seldom reels in that country. The chief, fearless of the hving or the dead, was not to be scared even by the sup- posed spectre of the tomb, arose^ and ordered his men to follow him to the spot. One jumped and another jumpe#, and at each succeeding leap, succeeding notes of the softest music vibrated on the ear from beneath. Recourse was had instantly to exhumation. The mysterious musician was soon brought to light. It proved to be Mrs. Albrecht's piano-forte, which she had taken with her from London, and which was the first ever conveyed into the Transgariepine regions. Being too cumbrous to be taken in a hasty flight, it had been buried in a soil where, from the entire absence of moisture, it might, but for this circumstance, have re- mained unscathed. Africaner, whose martial spirit made him a fitter associate for Mars than for the Muses, allowed the instrument to be dissected, parts of which I have seen, from which those fingers now silent in the grave had called forth divine harmony. To finish the varied but sorrowful detaO, one of the men of Africaner, on seeing him depart, took a fire-brand, and set fire to the houses and huts, which were soon reduced to ashes ; and thus the light of Divine truth, which had just been enkindled in those gloomy regions, was extinguished for a season; and a peaceful Zion reduced to a heap of ruins. I have walked over them in pensive sorrow, and slumbered among them, when the owl ordy, broke the death- like silence which reigned with its melancholy note, or the gaunt hyena howled in^ quest of prey. It might be profitable to improve this event, by tracing the succession of evils which befell that mission to their source. It might afford instructive lessons to those who may be similarly situated. It is, however, not my object to preach, but faithfuUy to narrate past events; leaving my readers, especially such as have entered into the labours of others of whose sufferings 70 DEATH OF ME. AND MRS. ALBRECHT. it is scarcely possible for them to form an adequate concep- tion, to make the improvement. I have known a newly arrived missionary listen to the apparently romantic tale of a veteran of the above order, with the conviction, that the exaggerated picture he drew of past trials must have been the effect of an intellect partially weakened. It is impossi^ ble to take a minute survey of the lives and labours of some of our missionaries, whose names have become, like their voices, silent in death, without concluding that " there were giants in those days," like Christian Alb'recht ; a glance, at whose concluding days, and those of his beloved partner, must close the present chapter. Driven by necessity, as we have previously shown, to the colony, a visit to Cape Town cheered their . drooping spirits eWittle, though stiU feeling the effetts of previous suffering ; for Mrs. A. writes, just on the eve of again returning, in December 1811, addressing the directors, "Yes, dear brethren, we have suffered much in every respect, and my soul and body are very much dejected." After a most distressing journey, sometimes under apprehension of perish- ing in the wilderness, they reached Silver Fountain, the residence of Cornelius Kok, who again rendered signal service to the weary, worn-out travellers. Here Mrs. Albrecht breathed her last, on the 13th of April, just five days after their arrival; and when she anticipated some repose she was removed to an eternal rest ; to the last her heart was fixed on her Master's work. The Namaqua mission was resumed at Pella, south of the river, and which was so called fiom its becoming the place of refuge ; there they were joined by about 500 of the Warm Bath people. Mr. C. Albrecht, having occasion again to go to the Cape for medical advice, as his health had been for some time declining, while there engaged in his Master's business, suddenly expired, leaving behind him a bright testimony of zeal, love, and self-denial seldom equalled. His labours follow him, while his remains slumber beside those of Dr. Vanderkemp, on a foreign shore, waiting the sound of the last trump. But before he was called, like a faithful servant, to the "joy of his Lord," a dehghtful realization of the faithfulness and mercy of Jehovah was permitted to enlighten and cheer his latter days. Many and fervent were the prayers which he and his coadjutors had offered up to the throne of God for the poor Namaquas, and for Africaner too. These prayers were heard ; and before leaving the countryj he had the ineffable jny, which it would require an angel's EEV. J. Campbell's journey. 71 tongue to describe, of making' peace with Africaner, and seeirig the standard of the Prince of Peace reared in the very village of the man who once "breathed, out threaten- ings and slaughter" against not only his fellow heathen, but against the saints of the Most High. CHAPTER YII. The Rev. J. Campbell, in his first visit to Africa, to which reference has been made', found it necessary to cross the interior of the continent to Namaqua-land. During his journey, he found in every village through which he passed the terror of Africaner's name, and, as Mr. C expresses it, " a trembling, lest he jshould pay them a visit ;" and he might have added what he has often since done, with the voice, " that he and his retinue never were so afraid in their lives." On reaching Pella, he wrote a conciliatory letter to Africaner: leaving it to be forwarded, he pursued his jour- ney to the colony. Mr. Sass undertook to convey this important document ; biit after searching for Africaner for some time, he was compelled, by thirst and hunger, to relinquish his object, committing the letter to one well acquainted with Africaner,, and in whom he could confide. On his return, Mr. S. and his attendants had nearly perished from thirst ; they cam.e to a hole in a rock where there was water, and into which a large hyena having forced itself, had been drowned ; the stench was horrible, and in attempt- ing to draw the now putrid carcase out, it went to pieces in their hands. But thirst will compel a man to do what would scarcely be credited in England ; they drank, though the beasts of burden, panting for want of water, -frould not taste of the almost putrid draught. • To this' letter Africaner sent a. favourable reply, and C. Albrecht lost no time in accomplishing what he had so long desired ; and soon after Mr. Ebner was sent from Pella.' I now enter into the history of that part of the Namaquai mission which requires a delicate hand to touch, and which cannot be done without violence to my own feelings. But 72 MR. EBNER. SENT TO THE MISSION. it is impossible for me to avoid reference to certam pomts ■which illustrate subsequent events. The station now occu- pied by Mr. Ebner was a most important one, on which great responsibilities lay, and from which results of the high- est importance might accrue to Namaqua-lemd. Mr. Eb- ner' s labours were blessed, though he was not what Mr. Albrecht desired, nor the man Mr. Campbell would ha,ve sent ; but labourers were few. It required no little circum- spection, acuteness, and decision, to gain influence and es- teem from a people who had been guilty of such enormities, and whose hand had been against every one. Every action and sentence of the missionary was weighed by minds accus- tomed to scrutinize and suspect. In the course of a short time, Africaner, his two brothers, David and Jacobus, with a number of others, were baptized ; but soon after, Mr. Ebner's situation was rendered extremely trying, by the interference of a runaway from the Cape, named Peterson, who went so far as to threaten to take Mr. E.'s property, and even his life, if, he resisted ; ■ys'hile, to the grief of the latter, it was evident that Africaner connived at the m.enaces of this in- dividual, whom he had power to control with a word. In 1817, Mr. Ebner visited Cape Town for supplies, where the writer first hailed him with delight, as his companion and guide in his future labours, upon which he was now en- tering. As my course, with that of Mr. Kitchingman, who was appointed to Bysondermeid, in Little Namaqua-land, lay to that place, in order to see Mr. Schmelen, we did npt travel much together, Mr. Ebner having to take another route. It was evident to me, as I approached the bounda- ries of the colony, that the fanners, who, of course, had not one good word to say of Africaner, were sceptical to the last degree about his reported conversion, and most unceremo- niously predicted my destruction. One said he would set me up for a mark for his boys to shoot at ; and another, that he would strip off my skin, and make a drum of it to dance to ; another most consohng prediction was, that he woidd make a drinking cup of my scull. I believe they were seri- ous, and especially a kind motherly lady, who, wiping the tear from her eye, bade me farewell, saying, " Had you been an old man, it would have been nothing, for you would soon have died, whether or no ; but you are young, and going to become a prey to that monstjsr." A hasty sketch of our journey to Bysondermeid, may not be unacceptable to some of my readers, who may be little acquainted with Africa. Raw travellers, in that country VIEWS OF YOUNG TRAVELLERS. 7^ generally have to learn much by experience, and that some- times dear bought, the mode of conveyance being so entirely different from, that of Europe. The first thing, the wagon, in his estimation, is an awkward, heavy "vehicle ; and though he never in his Ufa was in a wheelwright's shop, he pro- nounces it clumsy, and capable of immense improvement ; but, like all his predecessors, eventually confesses that its size, and mechanism, are inimitably adapted to the ravines and rocky ascents over which it must pass. Accustomed to horse, though not railroad speed, he is wearied out of par tience with the slow and measured paces of the oxen, going at two and a half miles an hour, and only seven or eight hours each day. The untractable disposi^on of some, and the apparently awkward harness of ten or twelve oxen be- fore tiie wagon, produce something hke disgust. I remem- ber one newly arrived, a tailor by trade, remarking, as he looked on a graceful African team, " How barbarous the people must be not to be able to harness their oxen better ; any one would improve it" He has not done it yet. He then finds fault with the people, and thinks himself very patient, because he does not scold them hard, or disband them altogether. The people not understanding his broken language, and he knowing but little of theirs, preclude him from having things done as he would. His oxen stray ; one man is tardy, another lazy, and a third runs away, and pro- bably reUeves him of a trifle of his heavy load, which had brought him to a halt in the bed of a river, or on the side of a bleak mountain. He pronounces, or is ready to pronounce, African servants as lazy, disobedient, dishonest, and, in fact, libels them and those under whom they have been instructed. Mr. Kitchingman and myself were spared many of these hard lessons, having been located with kind and hospitable farmers, some months before commencing our journey; but we had our trials, though not hke some of our predecessors, in the gipsy life of an African traveller. We obtained men to drive the wagons, and men to lead the team of oxen, for each team requires a driver and a leader; and as it is necessary, for contingencies, to have a number of loose or spare oxen, and sometimes sheep for slaughter, and occa- sionally a horse, an individual or two are required to bring them up in the rear. Servajits being very scarce at the time we travelled, it was with great difficulty we procured a loose cattle driver ; one we obtained, but, on getting a portion of his reward in advance, he decamped. Mr. K. and I undertook to de the work ourselves, and from the r 74 THE LOST SHEEP. extreme heat of the season, (Novemher,) it was necessary to travel most during the" night. We took the work alternately, for Mrs. Kitchingman being in a very delicate state of health, and near a period of maternal soHcitude, it was necessary' that one should constantly attend to support her, under the almost constant jolting of the wagon, without springs, on a rough and stony road. ^The task of driving the loose cattle was not an easy one, for frequently the oxen would take one course, the sheep another, and the horses a third. It required no little perseverance, as well as courage, when sometimes the hyena would approach with his un- earthly howl, and set the poor timid sheep to their heels; and the missionary, dreading the loss of his mutton, in his haste, gets his legs lacerated by one hush, and his face scratched by another, now tumbles prostrate over an ant hiU, and then headlong into the large hole of a wild boar. He frequently arrives at the halting place long after the wagons, when the keen eye of the native wagon driver surveys the cattle, and announces to the breathless and thirsty missionary, that he has lost some of his charge. _ He sits down by the fire, which is always behind a bush, if such is to be found, tells his exploits, looks at his wounds, and so ends his day's labours with a sound sleep. Next morning he gets up early to seek the strayed, and if it happen to be a sheep, he is almost sure to find only the bones, the hyena having made a repast on the rest. Once our httle flock of sheep was reduced to one, and one sheep will not easily travel alone, but soon becomes very tame, so as to walk about like one of the dogs ; indeed, ours became so very sociable, that we loved it, and tried hard to spare its life. It generally travelled with a long leather thong tied round its neck, with which it was fastened during the night However, having fasted long from animal food, being unable, to procure game, sentence was passed, and the pet sheep was to die next morning ; but it so happened that the'near ap- proach of a hyena frightened away the sheep, and being dark, the country bushy and iiiountainous, pursuit was out of the question. Early next morning Mr. K. and I followed the track, which showed us that the hyena had pursued ili to the mountains, to which such animals instinctively resort. After a long and wearisome search, we discovered our lost' sheep near the top of the rugged elevation. It had still, as the natives express it, de schrik in de lyfe, (the terror in the body,) and fled at our approach ; sometimes when we, after great labour, got within a step of the thong, away it baund- LEAVE BYSONDEEMEID. 73 esd, till it ascended cliffs beyond our reach. It was most mortifying to us to leave such a feast to the panthers, but not having a gun 'with us, and seeing some foot-marks of these dangerous animals, we slowly returned to the wagons, where all were anticipating a mutton chop, and the only compli- ment paid to our exertions was, that we had managed very badly. We had troubles of another kind, and such as we did not ejrpect in so dry and thirsty a land. Rain had fallen some time previous in the neighbourhood of Kamies Berg : the loose soil, abounding in limy particles, had become so satu- rated, that frequently, as the oxen and wagons went along the road, they would suddenly sink into a mire, from which they were extricated with difficulty, being obliged to unload the wagons and drag them out backwards. One river was so swollen and' rapid, that Mrs. K. preferred being carried over to going in the wagon. Being rather more robust than Mr. K., this duty devolved on me, and it was not an easy one, as the stones in the river were as slippery as butter, and the whole party standing on the bank, all in a titter, expect- ing Svery moment that we should both have a plunge, which, though not unattended with danger, excited the risible facul- ties in n6 ordinary degree. It was at Bysondermeid that I saw, for the first time, what might strictly be called a real native congregation, con- sisting of the aborigines of the country ; and I shall never forget what were my enmotions when listening to Mr. Schme- len, in his energistic style, addressing the attentive throng, and observing what attention they paid to the broken Dutch of the missionary recruits. This was to be the scene of Mr. Kitchingman's labours, while Mr. Schmelen was to proceed to the interior of Great Namaqua-land, where he had before laboured. I remained nearly a month with Mr. Schmelen at Byson- dermeid. His long experience afforded me much useful in- formation. My oxen being somewhat rested, I bade fare- well to my companions in travel, Mr. and Mrs. Kitching- man, now greatly endeared, and proceeded with a guide through a comparative tradkless desert. Having travelled nearly the whole night through deep sand, the oxen began to lie down in the yoke from fatigue, obliging us to halt be- fore reaching water. The next day we pursued our course, and on arriving at the place where we had hoped to find water, we were disappointed. As it appeared evident that if we continued the same route we must perish from thirst, at 76 &< DESERT SCENE. the suggestion of my guide we turned northward j over a, dreary, trackless, saiidy waste, without one green blade of grass, and scarcely a bush on which the wearied eye could rest. Becoming dark, the oxen unable to proceed, ourselves exhausted with dreadful thirst and fatigue, we stretched our wearied Hmbs on sand still warm from the noon-tide heat, being the hot season of the year. Thirst aroused us at an early hour ; and finding the oxen incapable of moving the wagon one inch, we took a spade, and, with the oxen, pro- ceeded to a hollow in a neighbouring mountain. Here we laboured for a long time, digging an immense hole in the sand, whence we obtained a scanty supply, exactly resem- bling the old bilge-water of a ship, but which was drunk with an avidity which no pen can describe. Hours were ocou" pied in incessant labour to obtain a sufficiency for the oxen, which, by the time aU had partaken, were ready for a second draught ; while some, from the depth of the hole and the loose sand, got scarcely any. We filled the small vessels which we had brought, and returned to the wagon over a plain glowing with a meridian sun ; the sand being so hot, it was distressingly painful to walk. The oxen ran frantic, tin they came to a place indurated, with little sand. Here they stood together, to cool their burning hoofs in the shade of their own bodies ; those on the outside always trying to get into the centre. In the evening, when about to yoke them in order to proceed on our journey, we found that most of the oxen had run ofi" towards Bysondermeid. An attend- ant, who was despatched in search of them, returned at mid- night with the sad tidings that he was compelled by thirst, and terror of meeting with hons, to abandon his pursuit. No time was to be lost, and I instantly sent ofi" the re- maining oxen with two men, to take them to the next foun- tain, and then proceed to solicit assistance from Mr. Bart- lett, at PeUa. Three days I remained with my wagon- driver on this burning plain, with scarcely a breath of wind ; and what there was felt as if coming from the mouth of an oven. We had only tufts of dry grass to make a small fire, or rather flame ; and little was needful, for we had scarc'ely any food to prepare. We saw no human being, although we had an extensive prospect ; not a single antUope or beast of prey made its appearance ; but in the dead of the night we sometimes heard the distant roar of the lion on the moun- tain, where we had to go twice a day for our nauseous but grateful beverage. At last, when we were beginning to fear that the men had either perished or wandered Mr. Bartlett ARRIVAL AT PEIXA. 77 arrived on horseback, vwith two men having a quantity of mutton tied to their saddles. I cannot conceive of an epi- cure gazing on a table groaning under the weight of viands, with half the dehght that I did on the mutton, which, though killed only the preceding evening, required no keeping to make it tender. Oxen had been sent for, which were to ar- rive in two days. This time was spent-in mutually refresh- ing intercourse ; but Mr. B., although inured to Namaqua heat, remarked, that what we experienced was enough to set the grass on fire. Fresh oxen, accustomed to deep sand, soon brought us to Pella. Here I remained a few days, and was greatly in- vigorated in body and mind by the truly Christian kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Bartlett, as well as by the friendly atten- tions of the heathen converts. When about to depart, Ma- german, the native teacher of Warm Bath, arrived with oxen, for the purpose of conveying me thither. Hence, a contention, if such it may be called, ensued, my destination being Africaner's kraal, where they were awaiting my arri- val, having been apprised of my coming by Mr. Ebner, who had returned there about six weeks previous. At last Ma- german consented to take me to the other side of the river ; and the good man, hoping to gain his point, conducted me to a ford, opposite which a village of his people lay, who he expected would take me by force. The wagon and its con- tents were swam over piecemeal, on a fragile raft of dry willow logs, about six feet long, and from four to six inches in diameter, fastened together with the inner bark of the mimosas, which stud the banks of the river, which is at this place 500 yards wide, rocky, with a rapid current. The rafts are carried a great distance down by the stream, taken to pieces every time of crossing, each man swimming back with a log. When, after some days' labour, aU was conveyed to the opposite shore, the last raft was prepared for me, on which I was requested to place myself and hold fast. I confess, though a swimmer, I did not like the voyage, independently of not wishing to give them the Ixouble of another laborious crossing. I withdrew along the woody bank, and plunged into the river, leaving my clothes to be conveyed over. As soon as they saw me approaching the middle of the ciwrent, terrified lest evil should befall me^ some of the most expect swimmers plunged in, and laboured hard to overtake me, but in vain ; and when I reached the northern band, an in- 7* 78 ARRIVE AT Africaner's kraal. dividual came up to me, almost out of breath, and asked, " Were you bom in the great sea water ?" The wagon and contents being removed beyond the reach of a flood, which sometimes comes down with little warning, an affecting scene presented itself, which perfectly overcame my feehngs. Magerman and his people beset my wagon, reasoning, pleading, and praying that I might go to Warm Bath. The following day the subject was renewed with such earnestness, that it was afternoon before 1 tasted a mouthful of food. At last the women came like a regiment, and declared that if I left them, I must take the wagon over their bodies, for they would he dovm before the wheels. It was in vain I pleaded my destination, and the necessity of proceeding first to Africaner, to fulfil the promise of the di- rectors. At last a party of Africaner's people, with three of his brothers, were seen approaching in the distance. This ended the painful conflict ; for, awed by their presence, they withdrew, with many tears. CHAPTER Till. On the 26th of January, 1818, I arrived, with emotions of the deepest gratitude to God, at Africaner's kraal, (after-, wards called, by Mr. Ebner, Vreede Berg, and then Jerusar lem,) being kindly received by Mr. E. Africaner's brother, who had charge of my wagon, took it to a large tree in the village, at some hundred yards' distance from the temporary hut of Mr. Ebner. This I did not like, but knew that some- times it was wiser to be silent than to speak. Appearances were not so inviting as I had hoped to find them ; and Christian Africaner, the chief, was some time before he came to welcome me. I was not aware of any unpleasant feeling existing between the missionary and the people, although I was startled, before I left the colony, to hear Mr. Ebner de- scribe them as a wicked, suspicious, and dangerous people, baptized, as well as unbaptized. After remaining an hour or more in this situation. Chris- tian Africaner made his appearance ; and after the usual CXDMFORTS OF A NATIVE HOUSE. 79 salutation, inquired if I was the missionary appointed by the Directors in London; to which I replied in the affirmative. This seemed to afford him much pleasure ; and he added, that as I was young, he hoped that I should live long with him and his people. He then ordered a number of women to come ; I was rather puzzled to know what he intended by sending for women, tiU they arrived, bearing bundles of native mats and long sticks, like fishing-rods. Africaner pointing to a spot of ground, said, " There, you must buUd a house for the missionary." A circle was instantly formed, and the women evidently delighted with the job, fixed the poles, tied them down in the hemispheric form, and covered them with the mats, all ready for habitation, in the course of little more than half-an-hour. Since that time I have seen houses built of all descriptions, and assisted in the construc- tion of a good many niyself; but I confess I never witnessed such expedition. Hottentot houses, (for such they may be called, being confined to the different tribes of that nation,) are at best not very comifortable. I lived nearly six. months in this native hut, which very frequently required tightening and fastening after a storm. When the sun shone, it was unbearably hot; when the rain fell, I came in for a .share of it ; when the wind blew, I had frequently to decamp to escape the dust ; and in addition to these little inconve- niences, any hungry cur of a dog that wished a night's lodg- ing, wouTd'force itself through the frail wall, and not unfre- quently deprive me of my anticipated meal for the coining day ; and I have more than once found a serpent coiled up in a corner. Nor were these all the contingencies of such a dwelling, for as the cattle belonging to the village had no fold, but strolled about, I have been compelled to start up from a sound sleep, and try to defend myself and my dwell- ing from being crushed to pieces by the rage of two buUs which had met to fight a nocturnal duel. But to return to my new habitation, in whicli, after my household matters were arranged, I began to ruminate on the past — the home and friends I had left, perhaps for ever ; the mighty ocean which rolled between the desert country through which I had passed, to reach one still more dreary. In taking a review of the past, which seemed to increase in brightness, as I traced all the way in which I had been brought, during the stillness of my first night's repose, I often involuntarily said and sung, " Here I raise my Ebenezer, Hither by thy help I 'm come." 80 PERPLEXING CIRCUMSTANCES. The inimitatle hymn from which these lines are taken, was often sung by Mr. and Mrs. Kitchingman and myself, while passing through the lonely desert. But my mind was frequently occupied with other themes. I was young, had entered into a new and responsible situation, and one sur- rounded with difficulties of no ordinary character. Already I began to discover some indications of an approaching storm, which_ jjoig ht try my faith . The future looked dark and portentous in reference to the mission. My inexperi- enced hand trembled to touch a single chord, lest it should vibrate in sounds still more discordant than those which fell on my ear the preceding day ; but the_su re_word of promise w as my stav . and I wa9 enabled to adopt the language ot one of old, " In the multitude of my thoughts within me, thy comforts dehght my soul." What I had contemplated was but too soon realized. The general aspect of affairs was to me any thing biit cheering. Christian Africaner seemed cool and reserved ; and on Titus Africaner, his brother, com- ing to the station, a scene ensued which made me tremble for the ark of God. Titus, whom I had not previously seen, was an inveterate enemy of missionaries ; he, with others, came and .stood before the native house of Mr. Ebner, load- ing him with the most abusive epithets, and in the most op- probrious language, ordered him to leave, threatening to lay violent hands on him. The whole of tbe people on the station were gazing on this scene, to me distresSifig in the extreme. Dreading some fearful consequences, I begged an interview with the chief. Christian Africaner, which I soon obtained, and entreated him, as a Christian brother, to use his influence to put a stop to proceedings so disorderly and disgraceful on the part of his relative. The chief, however, showed the greatest aversion to take any part in the busi- ness, and I could only obtain his promise to prevent Titus from assaulting the person of Mr. Ebner. I then went to Mr. E., to induce him to desist from disputing with a man in a rage, who threatened him with death. I addressed Titus, begging him to refer the case to the chief, to which, in a calm tone of voice, he replied, " I hope you will not in- terfere." Though I could not understand the merits of the case, I sat down at the door of Mr. Ebner's hut, determined that if any blows were given, I would at least come in for a share, for the sake of the wife and children. Towards even- ing a calm ensued, but it was a gloomy one, especially when Mr. E. came to me and begged of me to take upon myself the entire charge of the station, as he had resolved never PROSPECTS BRIGHTEN. 81 more to address them, but to leave the country entirely. Perceiving him greatly excited against the whole people, I earnestly entreated him to wait and dehberate on "the sub- ject calmly. A day or two passed, and though to Mr. E.'s great relief I obtained a kind of promise from Titus, that he would not molest him again; his determination to depart was unalterable. I shall never forget what were my feel- ings when, at Mr. E.'s request, I had to go among the peo- ple, and beg of some who were able to assist him to remove with his wagon and goods to Warm Bath, whither he had received an invitation from the chief Bondlezwarts to la- bour.* Mr. E. feared after leaving the station, Titus and his people might fall upon him, as it was rumoured that, but for my presence he would have done. Here I was, left alone with a people suspicious in the extreme ; jealous of their rights, which they had obtained at the point of the sword ; and the best of whom Mr. E. described as a sharp thorn. I had no friend and brother with whom I could par- ticipate in the communion of saints, none to whom I could look for counsel or advice. A barren and miserable country ; a small salary, about 25Z. per annum. No grain, and conse- quently no bread, and no prospect of getting any, from the want of water to cultivate the ground ; and destitute of the means of sending to the colony. T hese circumstances l ad. to gr eat searchini3:s of heart., to see it I had hitherto aimed, at' doing and suffering the will of Him in w hose service 1 e mbarked ! Satisfied that I had not run unsent, and having in the intricate, and sometimes obscure course I had come, heard the still small voice saying, " Thisj s^the way, walk ye in it," I was wont to pour out my soul among the granite rocks surrounding this station, now in sorrow, and then in joy ; and more than once I took my violin, once belonging to Christian Albrecht, and reclining upon one^ of the huge masses, have, in the stillness of the evening, played and sung the well knovnx hymn, a favourite of my mother's, " Awake, my soul, in joyful lays, To sing the great Redeemer's praise," &c. Soon after my stated services commenced — which were, according to the custom of our missionaries at that period, * Mr. Ebner remained at "Warm Bath but a short time ; for the chief of that place, not obtaining what he anticipated, which was something other than the gospel, Mt..E. was obliged to decamp, return to the colony, and finally went to Germany, hie native country. 82 AFKICANEIl's THIRST FOE. KNOWLEDGE. every morning and evening, and school for three or four hours during the day— I was cheered with tokens of the Divine presence. The chief, who had for some time past heen in a doubtful state, attended with such regularity, that I might as well doubt of morning's dawn, as of his attend- ance on the appointed means of grace. To reading, in which he was not very fluent, he attended with all the assiduity and energy of a youthful beUever ; the Testament became his constant companion, and his profiting appeared unto all. Often have I seen him under the shadow of a great rock, nearly the livelong day, eagerly perusing the pages of Divine inspiration; or in his hut he would sit, unconscious of the affairs of a family around, or the entrance of a stranger, with his eye gazing on the blessed book, and his mind wrapt up in things divine. Many were the nights he sat with me, on a great stone, at the door of my habita- tion, conversing with me till the dawn, of another day, on creation, providence, redemption, and the glories of the heavenly world. He was like the bee, gathering honey from every flower, and at such seasons he would, from what he had stored up in the course of the day's reading, repeat generally in the very language of Scripture, those passages which he could not fully comprehend. He had no commen- tary, except the living voice of his teacher, nor marginal references, but he soon discovered the irriportance of con- sulting parallel passages, which an excellent memory en- abled him readily to find. He did not confine his expand- ing mind to the volume of revelation, though he had. been taught by experience, that that contained heights and depths and lengths and breadths, which no man comprehends. He was led to look upon the book of nature ; and he would regard the heavenly orbs vsdth an inquiring look, cast his eye on the earth beneath his tread, and regarding both as displays of creative power and infinite intelligence, woidd inquire about endless space and infinite duration. I have often been amused, when sitting with him and others, who wished to hear his questions answered, and descriptions given of the majesty, extent, and number of the works of God ; he would at last rub his . hands on his head, exclaim- ing, " I have heard enough ; I feel as if my head was too small, and as if it would swell with these great subjects." Before seasons hke these to which I am referring, Titus, who was a grief to his brother, and a terror to most of the mhabitants on the station, as weU as a fearful example of ungodliness, had become greatly subdued in spirit, I had QUARRELLING WIVES. 83 again and again addressed him in soft and affectionate language, on his best interests, till he at last entered the house of God, and became a,t once a- steady and unwavering friend, and many times did he minister to my wants in that hungry land. He too would not unfrequently sit nearly a ■whole night with the chief and myself, in comparative silence. He thought his doing so would be pleasing to me, but he would never make a profession. He was wont to say his head had become too hard with sin, adding, " I hear what you say, and I think I sometimes understand, but my heart will not feeL" He was the only individual of influence on the station who had two wives, and fearing the influence of example, I have occasionally made a dehcate reference to the subject, and, by degrees, could make more direct remarks on that point, which was one of thte barriers to his happiness ; but he remained iirm, admitting, at the same time, that a man with two wives was not to be envied ; adding, " He is often in an uproar, and when they quarrel, he does not know whose part to take." He said he often resolved when there was a great disturbance, he would pay one off One morning I had thought the anticipfced day had come. He approached my doqr, leading an ox, upon which one of his wives was seated. " What is the matter ?" I inquired. Giving me a shake of his hand, and laugliing, he replied, " Just the old thing over again. Mynheer must not laugh too much at me, for I am now in for it." The two wives had quarrelled at the outpost, and the one in a rage had thrown a dry rotten stick at the other, which had entered the palm of her hand, and left a piece about an inch long, and the thickness of a finge* The hand had swollen to nearly four times its usual size. " Why," I asked, " did you not bring her sooner ?" " She was afraid to see you, and would not come, till I assured her that you were a madk mensche" (a tame man.) Having made an incision, and extracted the piece of wood, shewas melted into tears with gratitude, while I earnestly exhorted her to a better course of life. But to return to the character of Africaner ; during the whole period I lived there, I do not remember having occasion to be grieved with him, or to complain of any part of his conduct ; his very faults seemed to " lean to virtue's side." One day, when seated together, I happened, in absence of mind, to be gazing stedfastly on him. It arrested his attention, and he modestly inquired the cause. I replied, " I was trying to picture to myself your carrying fire and 84 ArmcANER and civilization. sword throUgli the country, and I could not think how eyes like yours could smile at human woe." He answered not, but .shed a flood of tears ! He zealously seconded my efforts to improve the people in cleanliness and industry ; and it would have made any one smile to have seen Christian Africaner and myself superintending the school children, now about 120, washing themselves at the fountain. It was, however, found that their greasy, filthy caresses of sheep- skins soon made th«ni as dirty as ever. The next thing was to get them to wash their mantles, &c. This was no easy matter, from their being made chiefly of skins, not tanned, and seWed together with thread made of the sinews of animals. It required a great deal of coaxing argument^ and perseverance, to induce them to undertake this Hercu- lean task; but^thi-s, too, was also accomphshed, to their great comfort, for they willingly admitted that they formerly harboured so much company, that they could not sleep soundly. It may be emphatically said of Africaner, that " he wept with those that wept," for wherever he heard of a case of distress, thither his sympathies were directed ; and notwithstanding all his spoils of former years, he had little to spare, but he was ever on the alert to stretch out a help- ing hand to the widow and fatherless. At an early period I also became an object of his charity, for, finding out that I sometimes sat down to a scanty meal, he presented me with two cows, which, though in that country giving little milk, often saved me many a hungry night, to which I was exposed. He was a man of peace ; and though I could not expound to him that thei' sword of the magistra!te" imphed, that he was calmly to sit at home, and see Bushmen or marauders carry off his cattle, and slay his servants ; yet so fuUy did he understand and appreciate the principles of the gospel of peace, that nothing could grieve him more than to hear of individuals, or villages, contending with one another. He who was formerly like a firebrand, spreading discord, enmity, and war among the neighbouring tribes, would now make any sacrifice to prevent any thing hke a collision be- tween two contending parties ; and when he might have raised his arm, and dared them to lift a spear, or draw a bow, he would stand in the attitude of a suppliant, and en- treat them to be reconciled to each other ; and, pointing to his past life, ask, "What have I now of all the battles I have fought, and all the cattle I took, but shame and re- morse?" At an early period of my labours among that people, I was deeply affected by the sympathy he, as well DAVID AND JACOBUS AFRICANER. 85 as others of his family, manifested towards me in a season of aiHiction. The eartreme heat of the weather, in the house which I have described, and living entirely on meat and mUk, to which I was unaccustomed, brought on a se- vere attack of bilious fever, which, in the course of two days, induced delirium. Opening my eyes in the first few lucid moments, I saw my attendant and Africaner sitting before my couch, gazing on me with eyes' fuU of sympathy and tenderness. Seeing a small parcel, containing a few medicines, I requested him to hand it to me, and taking from it a vial of calomel, I threw some of it into my mouth, for scales or weights I had none. He then asked me, the big tear standing in his eye, if I died, how they were to bury me. " Just in the same way as you bury your own people," was my reply ; and I added, that he need be under no apprehensions if I were called away, for I should leave a written testimony of his kindness to me. This evidently gave him some comfort, but his joy was fuU, when he saw me speedily restored, and at my post, from which I had been absent only a few days. In addition to Christian Africaner, his brothers, David and Jacobus, both believers, and zealous assistants in the work of the mission, especiially in the school, were a great com- fort to me. David, though rather of a retiring disposition, was amiable, active, and firm ; while Jacobus was warm, affectionate, and zealous for the interests of souls. His very countenance was wont to cheer my spirits, which, notwith- standing aU I had to encourage, would sometimes droop. Long after I left that people, he was shot, while defending the place against an unexpected attack made on it by tlffe people of Warm Bath. This intelligence deeply affected me, for I knew that he and David, with a select few, con- tinued in accordance with the dying charge of their elder brothoF, to keep the lamp of God alive ; while Jonker, the son and successor of the departed chief, turned to those courses from which he had been warned by the last accents which fell from his father's lips, though he had been a prom- ising youth, without having made any profession of faith in the Gospel. The following fact wUl serve to illustrate the character of Kobus, as he was usually caUed. The drought was excessive ; the people were distressed at the idea of be- i^g compelled to leave the station in search of grass. Spe- cial prayer-meetings were held to implore the blessing of rain. Prayer was soon answered, and the heavens, which had been as brass, were covered with clouds, the thunders 8 86 DYING SCENE. rolled, and rain fell like a torrent. The display of Divine condescension produced a powerful effect on the minds of the people, and many were the eyes that wept tears of grat- itude. I went out of my hut, where I had been nearly blinded by the vivid glare of the lightning, and witnessed Kobus comforting his wife, who was not a believer, while she seemed terror-struck at the tremendous peals which even yet were rending the heavens, and making the very earth to tremble beneath. He asked her how she could be afraid of a God so kind, and who could send down the rain of his grace, with equal abundance, on dry and parched souls ; and, falhng on his knees, he adored God for the blessings, of salvation. At this time, another interesting event greatly encouraged me. The subject was a venerable mother, a member of the church, and one of the fruits of Mr. Ander- son's labours, when on the Orange River. Entering her hut, and asking her how she felt, looking upwards with an expression of sweet composure, " I am looking for the com- ing of the Lord Jesus," was her reply. Observing me ad- dressing her unbeheving daughters, who were weeping around her bed, she remarked, " Yes, I have called them, that they may see a Christian die :" and a few hours after, she was called to the bosom of her God. CHAPTER IX. The state of the people, and the impossibility of the spot on which we Uved becoming a permanent missionary station, —for, instead of its being a Jerusalem, as Mr. Ebner called it, it might, from its general character, be compared to the mountains of Gilboa, on which neitheir rain nor dew was to fall, — gave rise to much inquiry respecting a locality more suitable. It was accordingly resolved to take a journey to the north, and examine a country on the borders of Damara- land, where it was reported fountains of water abounded ; but I had only one wagon, and that was a cripple. We had neither carpenters nor smiths on the station, and I was Un- acquainted with these trades myself The Orange Rivei BELLOWS-MAKING. 87 ^as impassaMe ; and even had it been fordable, the wagon was incapable of being conveyed to Pella, where it might be repaired. After ruminating for a day or two on what I had seen in smiths' shops in Cape Town, I resolved on mak- ing a trial, and got a native bellows, made of goat's skin, to the neck end of which was attached the horn of an elk, and at the other end two parallel sticks were fastened, which were opened by the hand in drawing it back, and closed when pressed forward, but making a puffing hke something broken- winded. The iron was only red-hot, after a good perspira- tion, whpn I found I must give it up as a bad job ; observing to the chief, if I must accompany him, it must be on the back of an ox. Reflecting again on the importance of hav ing a wagon for the purpose of' carrying food, when game happened to be killed, (for our sole dependence was on the success of hunting,) and Africaner evidently not liking, on my account, to go without a wagon, I set my brains again to work, to try and improve on the bellows ; for it was wind I wanted. Though I had never welded a bit of iron in my life, there was nothing like " Try." I engaged the chief to have two goats kiUed, the largest on the station, and their skins prepared, entire, in the native way, tiU they were as soft as cloth. These skins now resembled bags, the open ends of which I nailed to the edge of a cir6ular piece of board, in which was a valve ; one end of the machine was connected with the fire, and had a weight on it to force out the wind, when the other end was drawn out to supply more air. This apparatus was no sooner completed, than it was put to the test, and the result answered satisfactorily, in a steady current of air ; and soon I had all the people around me, to witness my operations with the new-fangled bellows. Here I sat, receiving their praises, but heartily wishing their departure, lest they should laugh at my burning the first bit of iron I took in my hands to weld. A blue granite stone was my anvil ; a clumsy pair of tongs, indicative of Vulcan's first ef- forts ; and a hammer never intended for the work of a forge. My first essay was with some trepidation, for I did not lilte so many lookers-on. Success, however, crowned my efibrts, to the no small delight of the spectators. Having finished what was necessary for the wagon, I was encouraged to at- tempt the repair of some gun-looks, which were as essential for the comfort and success of the journey as the wagon. In doing this, I began with one which I thought I could not spoil, sUould I not succeed ; and accomplishing that, I was able to put the othera in order. But in doing this, I had, for 88 GEOLOGICAI, OBSERVATION. the want ■ of steel, to sacrifice two of my files, which, m my isolated situation, was a sacrifice indeed. Every thing be- ing in readiness, we started, with thirty men, leaving Jaco- bus in charge of the afiairs of the station, and of the people, — the majority of whom were females, the men having re- moved to a distance on account of their cattle. On my ob- jecting to the formidable appearance of so large a party, which included Titus, and other brothers, as well as Africa- ner himself, Jacobus remarked, " I am concerned for your safety ; and a large party wiU have the tendency of prevent- ing any thing hke an attack being ma'de, more than jf it were small, as you desire." In this I found afterwards he was perfectly right, I shall not trouble the reader with the mo- notonous detail of an African journey, — daily inyoking and unyoking, sand here, and stones there, and dreary plains fol- lowing. I shall confine myself to some of the most striking incidents. — The country over which we passed was sterile in the extreme, sandy from the abundance of granite. Iron- stone was also to be found, and occasionally indications of copper. Slaty formations were also to be met with, and much quartz, filhng up large fissures occasioned by former convulsions, and the hills in some places presenting a mass of confusion ; the strata bending and dipping from the per- pendicular to the horizontal, and in others extending in a straight line from one hill to another. Native iron, in a very pure state, is procured in these regions ; and, from the account given by the natives, I shoidd suppose some of it is meteoric. The plains are invariably sandy, and there are even hiUs of pure sand. I also found, near some of the mountains, large pieces of trees in a fossil state. Zebras abounded, and wild asses, though less numerous than the former. Girafies were frequently met with, sometimes thirty or forty together. Elks, koodoos, and the smaller species of antelopes, were also in great numbers. The rhinoceros (the kenengyane, or black chukuru of the Bechuanas) is also to be found, but scarce. Buffaloes had nearly disappeared, at least in the region I visited. We had a tolerable supply, chiefly of the flesh of zebras and giraffes : the latter, when fat, was pre- ferred, though nothing came amiss to hungry travellers. When one of the larger animals was shot, we generally re- mained a day to cut the meat up into thin pieces, which, spread on the bushes, soon dried. The best parts were always eaten first ; and when pressed with hunger, recourse was had to the leaner poitions, which had been stowed away POISONOUS HONEY. 89 in the ■wagon ; and to make it palatable (for it much resem- bles a piece of sole leather) it was necessary to put it under the hot ashes, and then beat it between two stones till the fibres were loosened; and then it required hard chewing to masticate : and many a time have I risen from a meal, with my jaw-bone so sore, I felt no inclination to speak. Meat prepared in this way, or fresh, with a draught of water, was our usual fare. I had a small quantity of coffee with me, which, as long as it lasted, I found very refreshing. Some may think that this mode of life was a great sacrifice ; but habit makes it much less so than they suppose. It is true, I did feel it a sacrifice to have nothing at all to eat, and to bind the stomach with a thong to prevent the gnawing of hunger ; and thus, under these circumstances, to break the bread of eternal life to the perishing heathen. Water was m general very scarce ; sometimes in small pools, stagnant, and with a green froth ; and more than once we had to dis- pute with Uons the possession of a pool. One day our guide (for it was a country without roads) led us towards a ravine which presented an animating appearance, from the sides of the lulls being covered with a lovely green ; but, on our reaching them, scarcely anything was to be seen but a spe- cies of euphorbia, useless either to man or beast, and through which we with difficulty made our way. Being hot, and the oxen worn out, we halted ; and some of the men having been successful in finding honey in the fissures of the rocks, we ate with no httle rehsh, thinking ourselves fortunate, for food was scarce. Shortly after an individual complained that his throat wq.s becoming very hot ; theit a second, and a third, tUl aU who had eaten felt as if their throats were on fire. A native coming up, and seeing our hands and faces besmeared with honey, with the greatest simplicity said, •" You had better not eat the honey of this vale ; do you not see the poison bushes, (euphorbia,) from the flowers of which the bees extract the honey, and the poison too ?" Every one had recourse to the httle water that remained in the vessels, for the inward heat was terrible ; and the water, instead of allaying, only increased the pain. No serious consequences followed ; but it was several days before we got rid of a most unpleasant sensation in the head as well as the throat. We occasionly met with a Namaque village, where we always remained a day or two, in order to give the inhabitants the benefit (to many for the first time) of hearing the ever- lastii]^ Gospel. Their ignorance, though to a calm reasoner on the subject, not to be wondered at, was distressing in the 8« 90 IGNORANCE OF THE NATIVES. extreme, and perfectly confounding to my preconceived notions about innate and intuitive ideas, and what some term natural light I was determined not to be driven from the sentiments entertained by a vast majority of the respected advocates of religion in my native land of light, — sentiments, which I preferred even to those of the late venerable Roby, of Manchester, at whose feet I sat for a short season, I had with me one of the best of interpreters, himself a child of God, and I tried one native after another, to make my own point good. Sometimes I would even put words into the mquth of Africaner, and ask, " Does he not mean so and so ?" In some there was a glimmering of light ; but again I found, to my mortification, that this had been received from the " hat- wearers," as they called the people from the south, or from Mr. Schmelen's station at Bethany, whom they denorhinated, " the people that talked about God." By visiters to Warm Bath, the instructions of the Albrechts had extended far, till they melted away in the obscurity of heathen gloom. I have often had to labour for hours before I could make them understand what I meant or wished to know. It would be more amusing and ludicrous, than instructive, to give the result of all my enquiries ; and perhaps I cannot do better that to repeat the substance of a'conversation between our missionary, Mr. Schmelen, and a native, on this subject. Mr. S. had at that time better opportunities than any other man of becoming'acquainted with the views of the Namaquas in their native state ; and it would appear from his journal, whence the following extract is taken, that he spared no pains to elicit tlheir ideas. In his journal of the 23rd of May, 1815, which the author has seen since his retiirn to England, Mr. S. writes thus: — " Addressing a Namaqua, I asked, Did you ever hear of a God?" " Yes, we have heard that there is a God, but we' do not know right." " Who told you that there is a God?" "We heard it from other people." " Who made the sea?" " A girl made it on her coming to inaturity, when she had several children at once : when she made it, the sweet and bitter waters were separated. One day she sent some of her children to fetch sweet water, while the others were in the fields, but the children were obstinate, and would not fetch the water, upon which she got angry, and mixed the sweet and bitter water together ; from that day we are no longer able to drink the water, but people have learned to swim and run upon the water." "Did you ever see a ship?" " Yes, we have seen them a long time ago." " Did you ever ME. schmelen's journal. 9l hear who made the first one ?" " No, we never neard it " "Did you never hear old people talk about it?" " No, we never heard it from them." " Who made the heavens 1" " We do not know what man made them." " Who made the sun?" " We always heard that those people at the sea made it ; when she goes down, they cut her in pieces, and fry her in a pot, and then put her together again, and bring her out at the other side. Sometimes the sun is over our head, and at other times she must give place for the moon to pass by. They said the moon had told to mankind that we must die, and not become alive again ; that is the reason that when the moon is dark we sometimes become ill." "Is there any difference between man and beast ? " We think man has made the beasts." " Did you ever see a man that made beasts?" " No, I only heard so from others." " Do you know you have a soul ?" " I do not know it." " How shall it be with us after death?" " When we are dead, we are dead ; when we have died, we go over the sea-water, at that side where the devil is." " What do you mean by the devU?"' " He is not good ; aU people who die, run to him." " How does the devil behave to them, well or iU?" " You shall see ; all our people are there who have died (in the ships.)* Those people in the ships are masters over them." In the same Journal, the 7th of July, Mr. S. has the follow- ing : — " After service I spent some time conversing with some of the aged, but found them extremely ignorant ; some of them coidd not conceive of a being higher than man, and had not the least idea of the immortaUty of the soul. They intimated that their chief had been to some station to get instructions, and they hoped to hear more on these subjects from him." " I preached," says Mr. S., "from Rom. V. 18;" a text admirably adapted for people in such gross darkness. Mr. Campbell, in his little tract of the " Life of Africa- ner," states, " Being asked what his views of God were be- fore he enjoyed the benefit of Christian instruction, his reply was, that he never thought anything at all on these subjects ; that he thought about nothing but his cattle. He admitted that he had heard of a God, (weU. might he, being brought up in the colony,) but he at the same time stated that his views of God were so erroneous, that the name suggested no more to his mind than something that might be found in * Has not this a reference to men-stealers, who visited that coast 1 If so, it appears the natives never Icnew any thing about the devil till they knew slave-dealers, or at least they considered them his enuEsaries, 92 MISTAKES OF TEAVELLEES. the form of an insect, or in the lid of a snuff-box." This was the testimony of one who had passed from darkness to the light of the Gospel, a testimony, the writer more than once heard from his own lips. Ignorant as the Namaquas were, I cannot go to the lengths of a traveller in that country, who, after being anxious to ascertain the extent of knowledge among the tribe with which he then dwelt, a tribe too which had long enjoyed the instructions of missionaries, and among which a missionary is stiU labouring with success, makes the following remarks : — " I must say they positively know no- thing beyond tracking game, and breaking-in pack-oxen. They did not know one year from another ; they only knew that at certain times the trees and flowers bloom, and that the rain may be expected. As to their own age they knew no more what it was than idiots. Some even had no names ; of numbers, of course, they were quite ignorant ; few could count above five ; and he was a clever fellow who could tell his fingers. Above all, they had not the least idea of a God or a future state. They were Hterally like the beasts which perish." The above dismal picture of human degradation is, as is stated, the result of anxious inquiry on the subject ; and that too at a missionary station where the best facilities can be had for correct interpretation. I presume the respect- able writer would feel not a httle offended if his veracity were called in question, or ev6n his want of research in those regions. Be that as it may, I must entirely differ from him on one point, if not in more, in his statement. I have dwelt much with the Namaquas, as weU as among the people re- ferred to, but I never knew a man who had not a name ; and I have sat, and been taught by many infant lips to count more than ten, even when no missionary had laboured amongst them. It is, however, but just to remark, that it must be to a resident, not a swallow visitor that we must look -for correct information on subjects abstract in their nature. I speak from experience when I say, that on some points travellers are very liable to be led astray. For instance, I once, while writing, heard a traveller ask his guide the name of the last halting place they had passed. The guide, not understanding, repUed, " Ua reng," which the traveller, with all simplicity, was placing in his log book ; when, interrupt- ing him, I said, " What are you writing ? that is not a name : he merely asks you what you say." Accidents like the above frequently give rise to wrong names being applied to places ; in another instance, "mountains" was the reply, instead of the name of the mountain. And in reference to points of SUPPOSED THADITION OP DELCGE. 93 fkith, or extent of knowledge, the traveller may be com- pletely duped, as I was in the present journey. At an iso- lated village, far in the wilds of Namaqua-land, I met an individual, who appeared somewhat more intelligent than the rest j to him I put a number of questions, to ascertain if there were any tradition in the country respecting the deluge, of which vestiges are to be found in almost every part of the known World. I had made many inquiries before, but all to no pvirpose. Discovering that he possessed some knowledge on the subject, and being an utter stranger to any of the party, and to all appearance a child of the desert, I very promptly took my pen and wrote, thinking myself a lucky discoverer. I was perfectly astonished at some of his first sentences, and, afraid lest I should lose one word, I appointed two interpreters : but by the time I reached the end of the story, I began to suspect. It bore the impress of the Bible. On questioning him as to the source of his information, he positively asserted that he had received it from his forefa- thers, and that he never saw or heard of a missionary. I secretly instituted inquiries into his history, but could elicit nothing. I folded up my paper, and put it into my desk, very much puzzled, and resolving to leave the statement to wiser heads than mine. On our return, this man accompa- nied us some days southward, towards the Karas mountains, when we halted at a village ; and meeting a person who had been at Bethany, Mr. Schmelen's station, lyjn.g north west of us, I begged hirn to guide us thither, as I was anxious to visit the place. He could not, being worn out with the jour- ney ; but pointing to the deluge narrator, he said, " There is a man that kiiows the road to Bethany, for I have seen him there." The mystery of the tradition was in a moment un- ravelled, and the man decamped, on my seeing that the fore- father who told him the story, was our missionary Schme- len. Stories of a similar kind originally obtained at a mis- sionary station, or from some godly traveller, get, in course of time, so mixed up and metamorphosed by heathen ideas, that they look exceedingly like native traditions. Leaving this .subject for the present, we will return to the results of the journey. Having reached some of the branches of -the Fish River, where we found water by digging like the na- tives, we were brought to a stand. The wild Namaquas, as they are called, were jealous of the object of our visit. They knew of the fame of Africaner, and were apprized of his object, as well as that of the missionary ; but they had in earlier times received such impressions of " hat-wearers," 94 RETURN HOMEWARD. that they were determined either to oppose our praceeding', or flee. Here we remained some days, and notwithstanding their suspicions, we got the people to listen with great atten- tion to the message of the Gospel. We also met with one of their sorcerers, who, the night before, had made the in- habitants believe that he had entered into a Hon that came to the village and killed the cattle, creating an uproar which lasted till the morning dawn. I coaxed him into a conver- sation with a piece of tobacco, and inquired about his re- ported powers, to which he. readily replied ; but when I wished to put them to the test, he declined. I then request- ed him to try his hand on me ; this he also declined, adding, that I was a white sorcerer myself, from the strange doc- trines I taught. Africaner proposed to return, rather than lun the risk of shedding blood ; in which he was confirmed by the arrival of a relative from the north, who gave a sorry account of the country. CHAPTER X. On our route homeward we halted at a spot where a novel scene once occurred, and which was described by an indi- vidual who witnessed it when a boy. Near a very small fountain, which was shewn to me, stood a camel thorn-tree, (Acacia Giraffe.) It was a stiff tree, about twelve feet high, with a flat, bushy top. Many years ago, the relater, then a boy, was returning to his village, and having turned aside to the fountain for a drink, lay down on the bank, and fell asleep. Being awoke by the piercing rays of the sun, he saw, through the bush behind which he lay, a girafFe browsing at ease on the tender shoots of the tree, and, to hi« horror, a lion, creeping like a cat, only a dozen yards from ■him, preparing to pounce on his prey. The hon eyed tha giraffe for a few moments, his body gave a shake, and he bounded into the air, to seize the head of the animal, whicli instantly turned his stately neck, and the lion, missing his grasp, fell on his back in the centre of the mass of thorns, hke spikes, and the giraffe bounded over the plain. The THE LION AND GIRAFFE. 95 boy instantly followed the example, expecting, as a matter of course, that the enraged lion would soon find his way to the earth. Some time afterwards, the people of the village, who seldom visited that spot, saw the eagles hovering in the air ; and as it is almost always a certain sign that the lion has killed game, or some animal is lying dead, they went to the place, and sought in vain till, coming under the lee of the tree, their olfactory nerves directed them to where the Hon lay dead in his thorny bed. I stUl found some of his bones under the tree, and hair on its branches, to convince me of what I scarcely could have credited. The Hon will sometimes manage to mount the back of a giraffe, and, fixing his sharp claws into each shoulder, gnaw away till he reaches the vertebrae of the neck, when both fall ; and ofttimes the lion is lamed for his trouble. If the girafle happens to be very strong, he succeeds in bringing his rider to the ground. Among those that we shot on our jour- ney, the healed wounds of the lion's claws on the shoulder, and marks of his teeth on the back of the neck, gave us oc- ular demonstration that two of them had carried the mon- arch of the forest on their backs, and yet come off triumphant. When I had the pleasure of meeting occasionally with the late Mr. Pringle in Cape Town, and mentioned some of these facts, his poetical genius instantly caught the image, and threw the picture into the following graphic Hues, which may not be unacceptable to those who have never seen Pringle' s African Poems. " Wouldat thou view the lion's den 1 Search afar from haunts of men — Where the reed-encircled rill Oozes from the rocky hill, By its verdure far descried 'Mid the desert brown and wide. Close beside the sedgy brim Couchant lurks the lion grim ; Watching till the close of day Brings the death-devoted prey. Heedless, at the ambush'd brink, The tall giraffe stoops down to drink : Upon him straight the savage springs With cruel joy. The desert rings With clanging sound of desp'rate strife — The prey is strong, and strives for life. Plunging oft. with frantic bound, , ., To shake the tyrant to the ground- He shrieks — he rushes through the waste With glaring eye and headlong haste. 96 TERROR OF OXEN AT A LION. In vain ! — the spoiler on his prize Rides proudly — tearing as he flies. For life — the victim's uttnost speed Is muster'd in this hour of need: For life— for life— his giant might He strains, and pours his soul in flight j And, mad with terror, thirst, and pain, Spurns vfith vfild hoof the thundering plain. 'Tls vain ; the thirsty sands are drinking His streaming blood — his strength is sinking The victor's fangs are in his veins — His flanks are streaked with sanguin'd straii His panting breast in foam and gore Is bathed — he reels — his race is o'er : He falls — and, with convulsive throe. Resigns his throat to th' ravening foe ! —And lo ! ere quivering life has fled, The vultures, wheeling overhead, Swoop down, to watch, in gaunt array, Till the gorged tyrant quits his prey." We were often exposed to danger from lions, which, from the scarcity of water, frequent the pools or fountains, and some of our number had some hair-breadth escapes. One night we were quietly bivouacked at a small pool on the 'Oup River, where we never anticipated a visit from his majesty. We had just closed our united evening worship, the book was stiU. in my hand, and the closing notes of the song ol' praise had scarcely fallen from our lips, when tho terrific roar of the lion was heard ; our oxen, which before were quietly chewing the cud, rushed upon us, and over our fires, leaving us prostrated in a cloud of dust and sand. Hats and hymn books, our Bible and our guns were aU scattered in wild confusion. Providentially, no serious inju- ry was sustained ; the oxen were pursued, brought back, and secured to the wagon, for we could Ul afford to lose any. Africaner, seeing the reluctance of the people to pursue in a dark and gloomy ravine, grasped a firebrand, and ex- claimed, " FoUow me 1" and but for this promptness and intrepidity we must have lost some of our number, for noth- ing can exceed the terror of oxen at even the smell of a lion. Though they may happen to be in the worst condition possible, worn out with fatigue and hunger, the moment the shaggy monster is perceived, they start like race horses, with their -tails erect, and sometimes days wiU elapse before they are found. The number of lions may be easily accotmtea for, when it is remembered how thinly scattered the inhabi- LNHCMAN CUSTOM. 97 tants are, and, indeed, the whole appearance of the country impresses the mind with the idea that it is only fit for beasts of prey. The people seem to drag out a miserable exist- ence, wandering from place to place in quest of grass, game, or wild ropts. Those I had met with had, from infancy, been living a no-made life, with one great object in view, to keep soul and body together. " A region of droueht, where no river glUes, Nor rippling brook with oaiered sides; Where sedgy pool, nor bubbling fbunt, Nor tree, nor cloud, nor misty mount Appears, to refresh the aching eye ; But barren earth, and the burning sky, And the blank horizon round and round Spread — void of living sight or sound." Among the poorer classes it is, indeed, struggling for ex- istence ; and when the aged become too weak to provide for themselves, and are a burden to those whom they brought forth and reared to manhood, they are not unfrequently abandoned by their own children, with a meal of victuals and a cruise of water, to perish in the desert ; and I have seen a small circle of stakes fastened in the ground, within which were still lying the bones of a parent bleached in the sun, who had been thus abandoned. In one instance I ob- served a small broken earthenware vessel, in which the last draught of water had been left. " What is this ?" I sfiid, pointing to the stakes, addressing Africaner. His reply was, " This is heathenism ;" and then described this parricidal custom. A day or two after, a circumstance occurred which corroborated his statements. We had travelled all day over a sandy plain, and passed a sleepless night from extreme thirst and fatigue. Rising f.arly in the morning, and leaving the people to get the wagon ready to follow, I went forward with one of our number, in order to see if we could not per- ceive some indications of water, by the foot-marks of game, for it was in a part of the country where we could not ex- pect the traces of man. After passing a ridge of hUls, and ndvancing a considei'able way on the plain, we discovered, at a distance, a little smoke rising amidst a few bushes, which seemed to skirt a ravine. Animated with the pros- pect, we hastened forward, eagerly anticipating a, delicious draught of water, no matter what the qusdity might be. When we had arrived within a few hundred yards of the spot, we stood still, startled at the fresh marks of lions, whieh appeared t* havs been thers only an h«ur before us. 9 98 A MOTHER LEFT TO PERISH. We had no guns, being too tired to carry them, and we hes- itated, for a moment, whether to proceed or return. The wagon was yet distant, and thirst impelled us tp go on, hut it was with caution, keeping a sharp look out at every liush we passed. On reaching the spot, we beheld an object of heart-renpt ing distress. It was a venerable-looking old Ayoman,, a, living skeleton, sitting, with her head leaning on her knees. She appeared terrified at our presence, and especially at me. She tried to rise, but, trembling with weakness, sunk again to the earth. I addressed her by the narne which sounds sweet in every clime, and charms even the savage ear, " My mother, fear not ; we are friends, and will do you no harm." I put several questions to her, but she appeared either speechless, or afraid to open her lips. I again repeated, " Pray, mother, who are you, and how do you come to be in this situation ?" to which slie replied,"! am a woman ; I have been here four days ; my children have left me here to die." "Your children!" I interrupted. " Yes," raising her hand to her shrivelled bosom, " my own children, three sons and two daughters. They are gone," pointing with her finger, " to yonder blue mountain, and have left me to die." "And, pray why did they leave you?" \ inquired. Spreading out her hands, " I am old, you see, and I am no longer able to serve them j when they kiU gaine, I am too feeble to help in carrying home the flesh ; I am not able to gather wood to make fire ; and I cannot carry their children on my back, as I used to do." This last sentence, was more than I could bear ; and though my tongue was cleaving to the roof of my mouth for want of w^ater, this reply opened a fountain of tears. I remarked that I was surprised that she had escaped the lions, which seemed to abound, and to have approached very near the spot where she was, Slie took hold of the skin of her left arm with her fingers, and, raising it up as one would do a loose lii?.e.n, she ad,4ed, " \ hear th,e hons; but there is nothing on me that they would eat; I have no flesh on me for them to scent." At tljiis moment the wagon drew near, which greatly a],a;rme4 her, for she supposed that it was an anima,! Assuring her t^iat it would dp her no hanpa, I said that, as, I corild not stay, I would put her into the wagon, and take her wi^h me. At this remark she became convulsed ■vyith terror. Others ad.dresse4 her, but eJI to no effect. She replied, that if -yye took hei, ai;i^ left her at another viEgge, they wouJ.d only do the same thing again, « It is our custpfli ; I am Biearly dea,d; I 6q HUMAN DEPRAVITY. 99 not want to, die again." The sun was now piercingly hot ; the oxen were raging in the ydie, and we ourselves nearly delirious. Finding it impofsible to influence the woman to move, without running the risk, of her dying convulsed in our hands, we collected a quantily of fuel, gave her a good supply of dry meat, some tohacco, and a knife, with some other articles;, telling her we should return in two days, and stop the night, when she would be able to go with us ; only she must keep up a good fire at night, as the lions would smell the dried flesh, if they did not scent her. We then pursued our course ; and after a long ride, passing a rocky ridge of hills, we came to a stagnant pool, into which men and oxen rushed precipitately, though the water was almost too muddy to go down our throats. Ob our return to the spot, according to promise, we found the old woman and every' thing gone, but, on examination, discovered the footmarks of two men, from the lulls referred to, who appeared to have taken her away. Several months afterwards, I learned, from an individual who visited the station, that the sons, seeing from a distance the wagon halt at the spot, where they had so unnaturally left their mother to perish, came to see, supposing the travellers had been viewing the mangled remains of their mother. Find- ing her alive, and supplied with food, and on her telling the story of the strangers' kindness, they were alarmed, and, dreading the vengeance of the great chief, whom they supposed me to be, took her home, and were providing for her with more than usual care. I have often reasoned with th e natives on this cru.el practice' ; in reply to which, ttiev- would only laugh It may be imagined, that people might devofeTEeir triends, and nobles their first-born, like the Carthaginians, to appease some ofiended deity; and that miothers, too,, should smQe on the infants their own hands had murdered, from similar motives; but it appears an awful exhibition of human depravity,, whert children compel their parents to perish for want, or to be devoured by beasts of prey in a desert, from no other motive than sheer laziness, or to get qnit of those on whose breast they hung in helpless infancy, whose lips first directed their vocal powers, whose hand Led them through many a weary waste, and who often sufiered the most pinching want, that the babes whom nature taught them to love might be supplied. I have more thjan once handed, food to a hungry motiier, who appeared to haye feisted foi a month, when she would just taste it, auA gjve it to hsr child, when, perhjajs, that, very child, 100 SAGACITY OF THE LION. instead of returning grateful service to the infancy of old age, leaves that mother to perish from hunger. Conversing with the party one evening, when sitting around the fire, on the conduct of children to their parents, I observed that they were as bad as lions, " They are worse," replied Africaner. This he illustrated from the well-known characteristics of the king of beasts ; or, more properly, king of the beasts of prey. Much has been written about African lions, but the half has not been told. The foUovs^ng trait in their character may not be intrusive, or partaking of the ma:rveUous, with which the tales of some travellers are said to abound. I give it as received from men of God, and men who had been experienced Nimrods too. The old lion, when in company with his children, as the natives paU them, though they are nearly as big as himself; or, when numbers together happen to come upon game, the oldest or ablest creeps to the object, while the others crouch on the grass ; if he be successful, which he generally is, he retires from his victim, and lies down to breathe, and rest, for perhaps a quarter of an hour ; in the meantime, the others draw around, and lie down at a respectful distance. When the chief one has got his rest, he commences at the abdomen and breast, and after making havoc with the tit-bits of the carcase, he will take a second rest, none of the others presuming to move. Ha-ving made a second gorge, he retires, the others watching his motions, rush on the remainder, and it is soon devoured. At other times, if a young lion seizes the prey, and an old one hap- pens to come up, the younger retires till the elder has dined. This was what Africaner called better manners than those of the Namaquas. Passing along a vale, we came to a spot where the lion appeared to have been exercising himself in the way of leap- ing. As the natives are very expert in tracing the manoeu- vres of animals by their foot-marks, it was soon discovered that a large Uon had crept towards a short black stump, very like the human form ; when within about a dozen yards, it bounded on its supposed prey, when, to his mortification, he fell a foot or two short of it. According to the testimony of a native who had been watching his motions, and who join- ed us soon after, the lion lay for some time stedfastly eyeing its supposed meal. It then arose, smelt the object, and re- turned to the spot from which he commenced his first leap, and leaped four several times, till at last he placed his paw on the imagined prize. On another occasion, when Amca- f. TERRIBLE POSITION. 101 \ net and an attendant were passing near the end «?■ a hOl, from which jutted out a smooth rock of ten oi twelve feet high, he observed a number of zebras pja^sihg round it, obliged to keep the path, beyond which M "was precipitous. A lion was seen creeping up towards the path, to intercept the large stedlion, which is always in the rear to defend or warn the troop. The lion missedliis mark, and while the zebra rushed round the point, tHe lion knew well if he could mount the rock at one leap,>ii!e next would be on the zebra's back, it being obliged to turn towards the hill. He fell short, with only his head jover the stone, looking at the gal- loping zebra switchiri-* his tail in the air. He then tried a second and a thirdle-J-p, till he succeeded. In the meantime two more lions cansie up, and seemed to talk and roar away about something-jfwhile the old lion led them round the rock, and round it aga.in ; then he made another grand leap, to show them whajt he and they must do next time. Africaner added, with the) most perfect gravity, " They evidently talk- ed to each othei", but though loud enough, I could not under- stand a word tpey said, and, fearing lest we should be the next objects orn, when he was resolved to send the contents of the gun %rough its head ; but as it did not appear, tying his gun to fifesback, the poor man made the best of hiis way on his handsXand knees, to the nearest path, hoping some solitary indiyidjual might pass. He could go no farther, when, providentially, a person came up, who took him to a place of safety, frojm whence he obtained help, though he lost his toes, and was\a cripple for life. i The preceding lion stories, selected from many more, wiJjJ serve for the present to illustrate the character of that noble,V but dangerous creature. As to his being afraid of the hu- man eye, I shall touch on that subject in another part of my work, when I describe those which have tasted human flesh, for which they ever afterwards retain an uncommon relish. With all their boldness, they are sometimes arrant cowards. On one occasion, I remember a man who, coming unex- pectedly on a lion, fainted. The lion raised himself to look over the bushes, and seeing no one, seemed to suspect a plot, and scampered off "with his tail between his legs. It is but justice to add, that the mian was no less cowardly J» for, on awaking from his swoon, and looking this way and that, he imagined the object of his terror was still there, and- StPFERINGS IN THE DESERT. 103 faking to his heels, he ijnade towards the wagon. I have known Bushmen, and even women, drive the lion away from the prey he has just seized, hy beating their clubs on dry hides, and shouting ; nevertheless, by day, and especially by night, he is an object of terror. Such subjects as these served sometimes to amuse our evening hours ; more fre- iqtiently, however, I requested my companions to propose questions on scriptural and other important subjects, in an- swering which I had an opportunity of coninlunicating much useful and edifying instructiotv. ** Beihg disappointed in the object of our journey, we en- deavoured to reach home by a shorter route farther to the east on the borders of the southern Zahara desert, which lies between Namaqua-lanA and the country of the Bechua- nas. We had nearly paid dear for our haste, for we found ourselves in a plain of deep sand, and WBre on the point of abandoning the wagon. Each went in search of water, but it was in vain, we found only water melbns, and those as bitter as gall. I shall never forget the ghastly looks of our party — ^nothing cordd provoke a smile. Some had started off in the direction of a river called 'Kam Toaap, which signifies "the water is done," where they happily found sbme, and (after drinking largely themselves) filled their calabashes and returned ; but before reaching the wagon, their thirst again, became excessive, and by the next morn- ing they had nearly finished all they had reserved for us. On my tasting the water, and it was indeed but a taste, for I wished that others should wet their lips, the rage for water seemed to increase, and we hastened towards the river. When we reached the top of the deep bed of the river, a scene presented itself which, though twenty-three years have elapsed, is as fresh to my mind as though it occurred but yesterday. Two of the men who had prieceded us, imme- diately seized the thong of the two leading oxen, to prevent them from precipitating themselves with the wagon down the rugged steep, after the example of wiser heads ; for all the people, withdut exception, rushed dovssn the bank, some kept their fefet, others rolled, and some tunlHed headlong into the itiuddy pool, in which they seemed fain to lie, Clothes and all. It was well that the water was warmed by the sun's scorching rays, for Africaner, as well as others, re-- corded several instances of thirsty travellers drinkihg largely in their heated state, and instantly expiring with their faces in the water. The jourhey, which occupied only a few weeks, though 104 MISSIONARIES OF FORMEE. TIMES. without success, settled one important point, namely, the impossibility of obtaining in that desolate region an eligible situation for a missionary station. Jacobus, who had been left in charge, had executed his office with great fidelity and zeal. The place looked very desolate, and though I had still a congregation of about 200 persons, and upwards of 100 children in the school, many were absent at cattle out-po^ts on account of grass. I now resumed my itinerating visits on a more extensive s«le, as I had able assistants in Jacobus and David to carry on the week services of the school. Titus, who had also been one of my attendants on the jour- ney, and who, from what I saw, would have suffered death rather than have seen evil befall me, now gave me another display of his attachment. He did not like the idea of my riding on an ox with horns, which is certainly both lawkward and hazardous. Some time before, one had fallen, and the rider being thrown forward with his breast on the horn, was killed. Titus very generously begged of me to take his only horse, which was of great value to him for hunting. These itinerating expeditions were not unfrequently attended virith privation as weU as danger. I shall briefly advert to some facts connected with this subject, which wiQ serve to show those who may be similarly situated, that their lot is only that of their predecessors. In my experience, I often found it not only profitable but animating, to read the sufferings of the messengers of the cross in past ages | to ■which ours of the present bear no comparison ; and especially to the great Apostle of the Gentiles, and his coadjutors, who became " all things to aU men, as the ministers of God, in much patience, in Afflictions, in necessities, in distresses, in stripes, in imprisonments, in tumults, in labours, in watching, in fastings," 2 Cor. vi. 4, 5. After tying my Bible and hymn-book in a blanket to the back of my saddle, and taking a good draught of milk, I started with my interpreter, who rode upon an ox. We had our guns, hut nothing in our purse or scrip except a pipe, some tobacco, and a tinder box. Bread we had none ; and though we might have taken a small piece of dry meat with us, we did not, hoping at our halting place to meet a son of peace. After a hot day's ride, to reach a village in the evening, the people would give us a draught of sweet milk ; and then old and young, assembUng in a nook of the fold among the kine, would listen to my address on the great concerns of their souls' salvation. I exhorted those who A SCOTPLE WITH THE LION. 105 eould read to read to others, and try to teach them to do the same, promising them a reward in heaven ; for I had none to give on earth. When service was over, having taken another draught of milk) and renewed my conversation with the people, I lay down on a mat to repose for the night. Sometimes a kind housewife would hang I hamboos, or wooden vessel filled with mUk, on a forked stick, near my head, that I might, if neccessary, drink during the night. At one of these places I had dept on the ground near the door of the hut in which the principal man and his wife reposed. I remarked in the morning, that it appeared that some of the cattle had broken loose during the night, as I heard something moving about on the outside of the thorn fence, under which I lay. '* Oh," he replied, " I was looking at the' spoor this morning, it was the lion;" adding, that a few nightsbefore it sprang over on the very spot on which I had been lying, and seized a goat, with which it bounded off through another part of the fold. " Look." said he, " there is a part of some of the mats we tore from the house, and burned to frighten him away." On asking him how he could think of appointing me to sleep in that very spot. "Oh." he rejoined, "the lion would not have the audacity to jump over on you." This remark produced a laugh in me, in which he and his wife joined most heartily ; and reminded me of a circumstance in his own history, with which I was well acquainted ; for he had been in the jaws of a Hon. One night, he, and about a dozen hunters, were fast asleep, with a circle of bushes placed around their fire. When the blaze was extinguished, a lion sprang into the midst of the sleeping party, seized my host by the shoulder, and with his caross, dragged him off to some distance. The others, aroused by the scufiUe, snatched up their guns, and, not knowing one of their number had been carried off, shot in the direction whence the noise proceeded. One ball happen- ed to wound the lion, and, in trying to roar, it let the man drop from its grasp, who instantly ran off, leaving his mantle, and bolting among his companions, crying out,. " Do not shoot me ;" for they supposed for a moment that he was the lioii. He showed me the ugly marks of the lion's teeth in his shoulder. After addressing, in the morning, a party like that of the E receding evening, I would again stairt toward another vil- ige ; but, owing to the migatory habits of the 'natives in search of water ana grass, there was considerable uncer- tainty as to finding them, W» would tnnrel slowly all day, 106 NIGHT- ASSOdUTES. having had for our breakfast a good draught of milk ; and in the eveiAng reach the proposed spot as hungry as hawks, to find the whole party removed, leaving nothing but empty folds. To follow the spoor, or ttaek, through the night, was out of the question ; besides, there was rarely any trace of the direction in which the party had decamped. The only living creatures to be seen were some vultures and crows perched on a bush or rock, which were disturbed by our ap- proach to the ruins of a mat house, where they had been occupied in picking up bits of skin, and other particles of food. Not knowing the distance to the water, we would sit down huaagry and thirsty, with little incUnation either to speak or think; and after commending ourselves to the care of our heavenly Father, lie down to repose, not unfrequently disturbed by visits from hyenas, jackals, and sometimes the lion himself; all which come to prowl for bones when a vil- lage has been deserted. Next morning our first concern would be to find water ; and, taking our beasts of burden, we would seek the track which appeared to lead to that ever delightful beverage. Having breakfasted on a draught of not very sweet water,, we would again set o£F on our lonely course, proceeding very slowly, in order not to lose the spoor, regarding ourselves fortunate if we. succeeded in overtaking the party. The above is a ^eeimen of Namaqua itinerating, and sometimes the missionary is called to sufier much greater privations than have now been described. This may he the most proper place, briefly to introduce a. sketch of the gen- eral character of my manner of living, while on this station. As before noticed, I had neither bread nor vegetables., Mr. Bartlett, of Pella, once sent me a bag containing a few pounds of salt, but, on examining it, I could scarcely tell whether there was most sand or salt, and having become accustomed to do vinithout it, I hung it upon a nail, where it remained untouched. My food was milk and meat, hving for weeks together on one, and then for a while on the other, and again on both together. AU was well so long, as I had either, but sometimes- they both, failed, and there were no shops in the country where I could, have purchased ; and had there been any I must have bought on credit, for money 1 had none. I had purchased some ewes fi:6m Mr. Ebner when he left the countfy, which I spaced, hoping to get now and then a lamb. My meals consisted frequently of a draught of milk in ihe.raonung, another at noon and a third, at night, either 107 sweet, sour, or curdled ; for the Namaquas had not the art of preparing it in the manner of the Bechuanas, which will afterwards be described. I had frequently pretty long fasts, and have had recourse to the " fasting-girdle," as it is called; on more than one occasion after the inorning service, I have shouldered my gun, aid gone to the- plain or the mountain brow in search of something to eat, and, when unsuccessful, have returned, laid down my piece, taken the Word of Life, and addressed my congregati(5i. ' I never liked begging, and have frequently been hard put to ; but many a time has an unknown friend placed in my hut a portion of food, on which I have looked with feelings better conceived than described. I shall never forget the kindness of Titus Africaner, who, when he visited the station. Would come and ask what he could do for me, and, on receiving a few shots, would go to the field, and almost always bring me home something, for he was an extraordinary marksman. The contents of my wardrobe bore the same impress of poverty. The supply of clothes which I had received in London were, as is too often the case, made after the dandy fashion, and I being still a growing youth, they soon went to pieces. There were no lataidry-maids there, nor anything lite ironing or mangling. The old woman who wajshed my liiien sometimes with soap, but oftener without, was wont to make one sliif t into a bag, and stuff the others into it, and I just took them out as they were, and more than once have I turned one to feel the comfort of a clean shirt. My dear old mother, to keep us out of mischief in the long winter evenings, taught me both to sew and knit; and when I would tell her I iiitended being a man, she would reply, " Lad, ye dinna ken whur your l6t will be cast." "She vt^as right, for I have often had occasion to use the needle since. I remember orice she showed me how a shirt might be smoothed, by folding it properly, and hammering it with a; piece of wood. Resolving one day to have a nice shirt for the sabbath, I folded up one, and having prepared a suitable block, I laid it on, not a smooth hearth-stone, but fine granite, and hammered away in good earnest, when Africaner com- ing by said, " What are you doirig?" " Smoothing my shirt," I replied. " That is one way," said he. So it Was, for on holding it up to view, it was riddled with holes, some as large as the point of ihy finger. When I left the cbuhtry I had not half a dozeri shirta with two sleeves a-piece". CHAPTER XI. After continuing for many months this manner of life, cheered in a dry and thirsty land, with the early and latter rains on the seeds sown in the hearts of the people, it was resolved to make another attempt to find a more convenient spot on which to conduct the mission ; and before closing the account of my sojourn in Great Namaqua-land, I wiU just add the particulars of a journey undertaken at the request of Africaner. He wished me to visit the Griqua country, to the east of the desert, to inspect a situation offered .to him and his people, to which he might remove with the full sanction of the chiefs of the Griquas. Africaner was most anxious to leave Namaqua-land, and the present offer, which had the approval of Mr. Anderson, the mission- ary at that place, being attended with some political diffi- culties, I, felt some reluctance, but at the urgent solicitations of the people, I went. David and Simon, the two brothers of Africaner, and Jonke'r, his son, with Jantye Vanderbyle, the chief guide, were my attendants ; we had about eight horses, good and bad, when we started. We each took a caross, or sheepskin blanket, with us, and trusted entirely for food to what we might shoot and obtain from the Corannas on the road. Our course lay principally on the north side of the Orange River. Though we journeyed on the banks of a river in which there was an abundance of water, and though the country was weU inhabited, we suffered afflictively from thirst, as well as hunger; few villages being on the north side of the riveir,- along whifch we travelled. We were sometimes compelled to scramble over rocky passes in the hiUs, only a fit abode for baboons, which were as plentiful as they were impudent. At other times we had to cross the river, to avoid the mountains on the opposite side, which arose, in the wildest grandeur, from the water's edge. On teaching the waterfalls, we were kindly received and treated by a Coranna chief, called Paul, (to whom I shall have occasion to refer when treating of the Bechuana mission,) and there we halted one day. He had visited our station, UNPLEASANT KIDB. 109 and felt exceedingly thankful for the kindness I had shown him. I was glad of this renewed opportunity to preach, and he was glad to hear again the message of Divine grace. The Orange River here presents the appearance of a plain, miles in breadth, entirely covered with mimosa trees, among which the many branches of the river run, and then tumble over the precipices, raising clouds of mist, when there is any volume of water. As it was arranged that we should not start before sunset, I wandered at noon towards the river ; and supposing the falls (from the noise) were not very distant, I walked towards them ; but feeUng excessively tired, I sat down under the shadow of a bush, and was soon fast asleep, having had httle rest the night before. Towards evening the hue and cry was raised that the master was missing, and a number sought my spoor, or footmarks, and followed tiU they foimd me. The first thing I heard, on awaking was, '* Mynheer, are you not afraid of the panthers 1" We proceeded on our journey, and entered a valley covered with a species of mimosa, the thorns of which resembled fish-hooks. Anxious to reach the high ground on the hills on the opposite side before the lions, whose roaring was heard on the heights above, should come down towards the liver, we quickened our pace. But the darkness increasing, and being unable to define the edges of the bushes, the rider was frequently caught and thrown to the ground, or left a piece of jacket or trowsers on the thorns, so that when we reached the other side of the dale we were both ragged and bleeding. To avoid following the serpentine course of some parts of the river, we often directed our course, with- out a path, to the next turn of the stream. One of these we reached at a late hour, and it being very dark, and the banks precipitous, we heard the water murmuring below, but dared not go down, fearing a plunge, and the company of the hippopotami. Being ignorant of the locality, and not knowing where the inhabitants (Bushmen) might be, we made no fire, lest we should be discovered, and we had nothing to roast. There were no trees, and we lay down between ridges or hiUs of deep sand. The wind was cold, and we had little covering, having left the half of our horses knocked up, and with them most of our caresses. The plan adopted by Mr. Haensel, a Moravian missionary, in similar circumstances, occurred to me, and, like him, I made a hole in the sand, and buried myself, leaving the head out. I soon felt very comfortable, and, extolling the plan, one of my companions 10 110 SCENERY ON THK ORANGE RIVER. imitated my example, and got under the earth. I then told him that the missionary whom we were imitating, having once submerged himself in the sand near the sea-shore, was occasionally disturbed by huge crabs approaching him, and these his faithful dog kept at a distance. My cpmpanion asked, " And what are we to do if a hon comes?" " We are safe," I repUed, « for he will not eat heads when he can get whole bodies." This removed his fears; and I do not remember to have slept so comfortably during the whole journey, in which we had often very sorry accommodations. The windings of the river sometimes flowed through immense chasms, overhung with stupendous precipices J and then like a translucent lake, with the beautiful towering mimosas and willows reflected from its bosom ; and a rick variety of birds, of fine plumage, though without a song; wild geese, ducks, snipes, flamingoes, in perfect security, feeding on the banks, beneath the green shade, or basking in the sun's rays on the verdant islands; far from the fowler's Snare. The swallows also, mounting aloft, or skimming the stirface of the mirror stream ; while the ravens, with their hoarse note, might be seen seeking their daily food among the watery tribe, or cawing oia the bending tops of the weeping willows. Flocks of Guinea • fowl would occasionally add to the varied scene, with their shrill cry, and whirling flight from the open plain to the umbrage of the sloping bank, where they pass the night amidst the branches of the tall acacias. But here too the curse reigns ; for the kites and hawks might be seen hovering in the air, watching the motions of the creatures beneath, and ready to dart down, with the fleet- ness of an arrow, on a duckling straying from its parent, or on a bird or a hare moving too far from the shelter of a bush or tree. • The fox also might be seen, steahng slowly along from the desert waste, to slake his thirst in the refreshing stream, and seek for some unfortunate brood which might fall within his reach ; and the cobra and green serpent, as- cending the trees, to suck the eggs, or to devour the young birds ; while the feathered tribe, uniting against the common enemy, gather around, and rend the air with their screams. The African tiger, too, comes in for a share of the feathered spoil. With his sliarp claws he ascends the trees, in the dead of night, and seizes the- Guinea fowls on their aerial roost. The hyena, also, here seeks his spoil, and gorges some strayed Idd, or pursues the troop for the ne^V-fallen an- THE CROW AND THE TORTOISE. HI tel(^e or foal ; and, to fill up the picture, the U'on may be heafd in the distance, roaring for his prey ; while man, " The gfeat enemy to man," is no less so to fish or fowl, or spotted deer. Wherever ho wanders he seeks to regale his varied arppetite ; and more than this, he, as the enemy of enemies^ fea^s not to attack the ponderous elephant, face the lion's glare, and for his amusement lay prostrate in the dust the innocent. Reclining on a rock one day, waiting till my shirty which I had washed, was dry, I noticed a crow rise from the earth, carrying something dangling in its talons. On directing my companions to the sight, they said, " It is only a crow with a tortoise ; yowwill see it fall presently;" and down it foU- The crow descended, and up went the tortoise agaiit to a still greater height, from which it dropped, and the crow instantly followed. I hastened with one of the men to the spot, and scared away the crow from the mangled tortoise, on which it was enjoying a feast. On looking around the fiat rack there were many wrecks of former years ; and on my remarking I did! not think the crow was so cunning, my companion-repliet^ " The kites do the same thing ;" which I have since frequently observed. In our journey along the banks of the river we met few of the inhabitants, as most of them had removed to the other side. We passed* two of the reed huts of Mr. Sass, who, with Mr. Helm, had for many years moved about with the Corannas, living a self-denying life on the sterile banks'Of the Orange River, which has been not unaptly compared, &oin. its extreme heat, to an oven. When we happened to meet with any who had been; under the tuition of these de- voted men, we felt at home, and received more than tiie re- warded boon of a cup of cold water. Others we met, who would give us neither meat nor drink, but appoint our place of night's repose, after a toilsome day, where the'hon came his nightly round : but mercy encompassed us about. On one occasion I was remarkably preserved, when all expected that my race was run. We had reached tb» river early in the afternoon, after a dreadftdly scorching ride across a plain. Three of my companions, who were in advance, rode forward to a Bushman village, on an ascent some hundred yards from the river. I went, because my horse would gOj towards a litlie pool on a dry branch,, frons which &e flood or torrent ha,d receded to the larger course. Dismounting, I pushed thiMUgh a narrow opening isi the 112 KINDNESS OF THE BUSHMEN. bushes, and lying down, took a hearty draught. Immedi- ately on raising myself I felt an unusual taste in my mouth, and looking attentively at the water, and the temporary fence around, it flashed across my mind that the water was poisoned for the purpose of killing game. I came out, and meeting one of our number, who had been a Httle in the rear, just entering, told him my suspicion. At that moment a Bushman from the village came running breathless, and apparently terrified, took me by the hand, as if to prevent my going to the water, talking with great ex- citement, though neither I nor my companions could under- stand him ; but when I made signs that I had drank, he was speechless for a minute or two, and then ran off to the vil- lage. .1 followed ; and on again dismounting, as I was be- ginning to think for the last time, the poor Bushmen and women looked on me with eyes which bespoke heartfelt com- passion. My companions expected me to fall down every moment ; not one spoke. Observing the downcast looks of the poor Bushmen, I smiled, and this seemed to operate on them like an electric shock, for all began to babble and sing; the women striking their elbows against their naked sides, expressive of their joy. However, I began to feel a violent turmoil within, and a fulness of the system, as if the arteries would burst, while the pulsation was exceedingly quick, being accompanied with a slight giddiness in the head. We made the natives understand that I wanted the fruit of the solanum, Which grows in those quarters nearly the size and shape of an egg, and which acts as an emetic. They ran in all directions, but sought in vain. By this time I was covered with a profuse perspiration, and drank largely of pure water. The strange and painful sensation which I had experienced gradually wore away, though it was not entirely removed for some days.* I was deeply affected by the sympathy of these poor Bush- men, to whom we were utter strangers. When they saw me laugh, they deafened our ears with expressions of satis- faction, making a croaking and clicking, of which their lan- guage seemed to be made up. And these barbarians to the * The materials used by the Bushmen, for the purpose of poisoning watel", are principally bulbs, called by the colonists gift bol, (poison bulbil the Amaryllis toxicaria, which possesses a strong alkali ; some specif of the Euphorbia, and other vegetable substances. The venom of the ser- pent they prefer for their arrows ; and they will even, if opportunity oSSts, have recourse to that to poison small fountains, when the water is nearly stagnant, in order to cut off their pursuers. ARRIVAL AT EWEES. 1J3 letter " showed us no little kindness," for they gave us some meat of zebras, which had died from drinking the same water on the preceding day. This was very acceptable ; for having fasted that day, we were all ready for a meal ; and, though the poisoned water had partially blunted my appetite, I enjoyed a steak of the black looking flesh mingled with its yellow fat. . On leaving the next morning, I gave these poor people a good share of our small stock of tobacco, which set them all dancing like merry Andrews, blessing our visit vidth the most fantastic gestures. It grieved me, that from the want of an interpreter, I could say but little to them about Him who came to redeem the poor and the needy. These people had come dovifn from the desert on the north in search of water, and were subsisting by the chase, by catching a soUtary animal in a pit-fall, or else destroying it with water poisoned by an infusion of bulbs, or other roots. They were evidently living in some fear of the Corannas on the opposite side of the river, whose cattle form a tempting bait to these hungry wanderers. Thinkmg, and justly too, that some part of the earth's surface must be theirs, they na- turally imagine that if their game is shot, and their honey pilfered, they have a right to reprisals, according to natural law, and therefore cannot resist the temptation of seizing the property of their more wealthy neighbours, when it lies with- in reach. On thg seventh day we reached that part of the river call- ed Q,uis or Kwees, from which lye intended to go in a direct course to Griqua Town, leaving the Orange River far to the right. We had previously made inquiries about the country which lay between : some said there was water ; others, that we should find none. We had eaten a small portion of meat that morning, reserving only enough for one single meal, lest we should get no more ; and drank freely of water, to keep the stomach distended ; and felt tolerably comfortable. At night we came to some old huts, where were remains of to- bacco gardens, which had been watered with wooden vessels from the adjoining river. We spent the evening in one of these huts ; though, from certain holes for ingress and egress, it was evidently a domicile for hyenas, and other beasts of prey. We had scarcely ended our evening song of praise to Him whose watchful care had guided and preserved us through the day, when the distant and dolorous howls of the hyena, and the no less inharmonious jabbering of the jackal, aimounced the kind of compapy with which w« were to 10* Il4 SOME OP THE PARTY WANDER. spend the night ; while, from the river, the hippopotami kept up a blowing and snorting chorus. Our sleep was anything but sweet. On the addition of the dismal notes of the hobt- ing owl, one df our men remarked, " We want only the lion's roar to Complete the music of the desert." " Were they as sleepy ahdtij-ed as I am," said another, "they would find something else to do." In the morniiig we found that some of these night scavengers had approached very near the door of our hut. Having refreshed oufselvies With a bathe and a draught of water, we prepared for the thirsty road we had to traverse • but, before startirig, a council was held, whether We should finish the last small portion of meat, which any one might have devoured in a mihtile, or reserve it The decision ^as to keep it till eveniiig. We sought in vain for ixia bulbs. Our only resource, according; to the custorri of thfe country, was to fill ourselves with as much Water as our bodies could contain. We had no vessel's iii which to carry it ; and if we had, our horses were hot equal to more than the carriage of our persons. We Were obliged to halt during the day, fear- ing our horses would give up, from the excessive heat. When the evening drew oh, we had to ascend and descend several sand-hills, which, weary and faint froni two day's fasting, Was to us exceedingly fatiguihg. Vanderbyle arid hiyself Were somewhat in advance of the irefet. When We observed our three companions remaining behind ; but supposing they staid to strilce light and kindle their pipe^, we thoughtlessly rode forward. Having proceeded some distance, we halted, and hallooed, but deceived no reply. We fired a shot, but no one answered. We pursued our jdurhey in the direction of the high ground near the Long Mountains, throueh which our path lay. Oh reaching a bushless plain, vs^e alighted, and made a fire : ahother shot was fired, and we listened with intense earnestness ; but gloomy, desert silence reigned around. We conversed, as -well as our parched lijis would allow, On what must be dbne. To Wait till morning would only increase the length of our suffering, — to retrace our steps was iniposSible : — ^probably they had wandered from the pafib, and might never overtake us :^-at the same we felt ihost reluctant to proceed. We had just determined to remain, when we thought we would fire one more .shot. It was an- swered — by the lion, apparently close to the place where we Stood. No wood was at hand tS make a fire, nothing but tufts of grass ; so We rah, and remounted ohr horses, Urgihg them on -towards a Jange of dark mouHtains^ the gloom in- PURSUED BY A LION. 115 creasing as we proceeded ; but as our horses could not gb much above a walking pace, we were in dread'every moment of being overtaken. If we drew up to listen, his approach in the rear was distinctly heard. On reaching the winding glen or pass through the mountains, despairing of escape from our enemy, we resolved to ascend a steep, where, froin a precipice, we might pelt him with stones ; for we had only a couple of balls left. On dragging ourselves and our horses up the steep, we found the supposed refuge too uneven for a standing-place, and not one fragment of loose stone to be found. Our situation was now doubly dangerous ; for, on descending to the path, the query was, on which side is the lion ? My companion took his steel and flint, to try, by strik- ing them, if hie could not discover traces of the hoh's paws on the path, expecting every moment that he would bound on one of us. The terror of the horses soon told us that the object of our dread was close to us, but on the right side, namely, in our rear. We instantly remounted, and continu- ed to pursue the b-ack, which we had sometimes great diffi- culty in tracing along its zig-zag windings, among bushes, stones and sand. The dark towerifag cliffs around us, the deep sileuce of whieh was disturbed by the grant of a soli- tary baboon, or the squalling of some of its young ones, add- ed to the colouring of the night's picture. We had not pro- ceeded very far before the lion gave a tremendous roar, which, echoing from precipice to precipice, sounded as if we were within a lion's den. On reaching the egress of the de- file through which we had passed, we were cheered by the waning moon, rising bright in the east. Descending again, we would gladly have laid our weary limbs down to rest ; but thirst, and the possibility of the lion's resolving to make his supper on one of us, propelled our weary steps, for our horses were completely jaded. We continued our slow 'and silent march for hours. The tongue cleaving to the roof of the mouth from thirst, made conversation extremely difficult. At last we reached the Itmg-wished-for "waterfall," so named, because when it rains, water sometimes faU, though in small quantities ; but it was too late to ascend the hiU. We allowed our poor worn-out horses to go where they pleased, and having kin- dled a small fire, and produced a httle saliva by smoking a pipe, we talked about our lost companions, who happened for their comfort to have the morsel of meat, and who, as Jantye thought, would wander from the positioA in which we lefl them towards the river. We bowed ^e knee to Hiia 116 KXTREME HUNGER AND THIRST. who had mercifully preserved us, and laid our heads on our saddles. The last sound we heard to soothe us, was the distant roar of the lion, but we were too much exhausted to feel any thing like fear. Sleep came to our relief, and it seemed made up of scenes the most lovely, forming a glow- ing contrast to our real situation. I felt as if engaged dur- ing my short repose, in roving among ambrosial bowers of paradisaicEiI dehght, hearing sounds of music, as if from an- gel'.s h^ps ; it was the night wind faUing on my ears from the neighbouring hiU. I seemed to pass from stream to stream, in which I bathed and slaked my thirst at many a crystal fount, flowing from golden mountains enriched with hving green. These Elysian pleasures continued tUl morn- ing dawn, when we awoke, speechless with thirst, our eyes inflamed, and our whole frames burning hke, a coal. We were, however, somewhat less fatigued, but wanted water, and had recourse to another pipe before we could articulate a word. My companion then directed me to a projecting rock, near the top of the hUl, where, if there were water at all, it would be found. I took up the gun to proceed in that di- rection, while he went in search of the horses, which we feared might have been devoured by the Hon. I ascended the rugged height to the spot where water once was, but found it as dry as the sandy plain beneath. I stood a few minutes, stretching my languid eye to see if there were any appearance of the horses, but saw nothing ; turning to de- scend, I happened to cough, and was instantly surrounded by almost a hundred baboons, some of gigantic size. They grunted, grinned, and sprang from stone to stone, protruding their mouths, and drawing back the skin of their foreheadsj threatening an instant attack. I kept parrying them with my gun, which was loaded ; but I knew their character and disposition too well to fire, for if I had wounded one of them, I should have been skinned in five minutes. The ascent was very laborious, but I wotdd have given any thing to be at the bottom of the hill again. Some came so near as even to touch my hat while passing projecting rocks. It was some time before I reached the plain, when they ap- peared to hold a noisy council, either about what they had done, or intended doing. Levelling my piece at two that seemed the most fierce, as I was about to touch the trigger, the thought occurred, I have escaped, let me be thankful ; therefore I left them uninjured, perhaps with the gratifica- tion of having given me a fright. DESCRIPTION OF THE MIRAGE. 117 Jantye soon appeared with the horses. My looks, more expressive than words^ convincing him there was no water, we saddled the poor animals, which, though they had picked up a little grass, looked miserahle beyond description. We now directed our course towards Witte water, where we could scarcely hope to arrive before afternoon, even if we reached it at aU, for we were soon obliged to dismount, and drive our horses slowly and silently over the glowing plain, where the delusive mirage tantaUzed our feelings with exhi- bitions of the lovehest pictures, of lakes and pools studded With lovely islets, and towering trees moving in the breeze on their banks. In some might be seen the bustle of a mer- cantile harbour, with jetties, coves, and moving rafts and oars ; in others, lakes so lovely, as if they had just come from the hand of the Divine artist, a transcript of Eden's sweetest views, but all the result of highly rarefied air, or the reflected heat of the sun's rays on the sultry plain. Sometimes, when the horses and my companion was some hundred yards in advance, they appeared as if lifted from the earth, or moving like dark living pillars in the air.* Many a time did we seek old ant hills, excavated by the ant-eater, into which to thrust our heads, in order to have something solid between our fevered brains and the piercing ]-ays of the sun. There was no shadow of a great rock, the * The following remarks on the general appearance of the mirage, taken from Belzoni's " Narrative of his Operations and Researches in Egypt," will not be uninteresting : — " It generally appears like a still lake, so un- moved by the wind, that every thing above is to be seen most distinctly re- flected by it. If the wind agitate any of the plants that rise above the horizon of the mirage, the motion is seen perfectly at a great distance. If the traveller stand elevated much above the mirage, the apparent water seems less united and less deep ; for, as the eyes look down upon it, there is not thickness enough in the vapour on the surface of the ground to conceal the earth from the sight ; but if the traveller be on a level with the horizon of the mirage, he cannot see through it, so that it appears to him clear water. By putting my head first to the ground, and then mounting a camel, the height of which might have been about ten feet at the most, I found a freat difference in the appearance of the mirage. On approaching it, it ecomes thinner, and appears as if agitated by the wind, like a field of ripe corn. It gradually vanishes as the traveller approaches, and at last entirely disappears when he is on the spot." This phenomena is called by the Bechuanas " MoSnene," and, there- fore, parched ground, in Isaiah xxxv. 7, translated, glowing sand, by Dr. Lowth and others, I have rendered by this term in that language. It is produced, as Dr. HartWell Home correctly remarksj in his " Introduction to the Gritical Study of the Scripturea,?' "by a diminution of the density of the lower stratum of the atmosphere, which is carried by the increaaa of heat, arislDg from that communicated by the rays of the sun to the ■aod, with which this stratum is in immediate contact." 118 DESPERATE CIRCUMSTANCES. shruts sapless, barren, and blighted, as if by some blast of fire. Nothing animate was to be see^ or heard, except the shrill ehirping of a beetle resembling the cricket, the noise of which seemed to increase with the intensity pf the heat Not a cloud had been seen since we left our homes. We felt an irresistible inclination to remain at any bush which could afford the least shelter from the nooiiday's sun, the crown of the head having the sensation as if covered with live coal, and the mind wandering. My companion became rather wild. Having been anxious to spare him all the toil possible, I had for a long time carried the gun ; he aslted for it, apparently to relieve me, but his motions were such that I was glad to recover possession of it. My difficulties and anxieties were now becoming painful in the extreme, not knowing any thing of the road, which was in some places hardly discernible, and in my faithful guide hope had died away. The horses moved at the slow- est pace, and that only when driven, which effort was labo- rious in the extreme. Speech was gone, and every thing expressed by signs, except when we had recourse to a pipe, and for which we now began to lose our rehsh. After sit- ting a long while under a bush, oh ! what a relief I felt when my guide pointed to a distant hill, near to which water lay. Courage revived, but it was with pain and labour that we reached it late in the afternoon. Having still sufficient judgment not to go at once to drink, it was with great diffi- culty I prevented my companion doing that, which would almost instantly have proved fatal to him. Our horses went to the pool, and consumed nearly all the water, for it ap- peared that some wild horses had shortly before slaked their thirst at this spot, leaving for us but little, and that polluted, Becoming cooler after a little rest, we drank, and though moving with animalcule, muddy, and nauseous with filth, it was to us a reviving draught. We rested and drank, tUl the sun sinking in the west, compelled us to go forward, in order to reach Griqua Town that night. Though we had filled our stomachs with water, if such it might be called, for it was grossly impure, thirst soon returned with increased agony ; and painful was the ride and walk, for they were alternate, until we reached at a late hour the abode of Mr. Anderson. Entering the dpor speechless, haggard, emaciated,, and covered with perspiration and dnst, I soon procured by signs, that universal language, for myself and my companion a draught of water. Mir. A., expecting, wfih a visitor ftojn, tha ARRIVE AT GRIQUA TOWN. 119 moon, as soon as firom JN^amaqua-land, was not a little sur- prised to find who it was. Kind-hearted Mrs. A. instantly prepared a cup of cofiee and some food, which I had not tasted for three days ; and I felt all the powers of soul revive,' as if I had talked with angels — ^it was to me a " feast of reason and a flow of soul." Retiring to rest, the couch, though hard, appeared to me a downy bed ; I begged Mr. A. just to -place within nay reac^^ half a bucket of water ; this he kindly and prudently refused, but left me with a full tumblei; of unusual size ; such, however, was my fevered condition, that no sooner was he gone than I drank th? whole. After reviewing the past, and looking upward with adoring gratitude, I fell asleep, and arose in the meaning, as fresh as if I had never seen a desert, nor felt its thirst. We remained here a few days, in the course of whi^h our lost companions arrived, having, as we rightly supposed, wandered towards the river, and escaped tjie thirst which had nearly terminated our career in the desert. The society of the brethren Anderson and Helm, with their partners in labour, was most refreshing to my soul. A crowded and attentive congregation, and the buzz of the daily school, made me forget the toils of the road, and cheer- fully did I bear my testimony to the word of grace which had been so blessed among the Griquas. Wishing to visit Daniel's Kuil, Berend's residen,ce, about fifty miles north of Sriqua Town, and also Lattakoo, on the Kuruman River, clearly as far beyond, my happiness was prolonged by the tsompany of Mr. and Mrs. Anderson, who had promised to visit that station. On this journey we had another display of a kind and gracious Providence. After leaving Daniel's li!uil, Nicholas Berend, who was vvagon driver and guide, ioi^t his way before reaching Camel fountain. This obHged us to halt short of the water ; an4 Nicholas, who was an in- telligent and shrewd nian, remarked again and again, in the course of the evening, that it was a very mysterious thing that he sljiould lose a path he knew so well. In the morning we inyok^d the wagons, aijidi proceed,ed to the water, which lay far to the ri^t ; and on arriving there, we saw, to our astonishment aj^ instruction, that we were led by a Way we knew not, for there had been seiveral large l^ons about the -virater pool, ap^paiently the wiip],e, wght, ^ad we, a);i^ved as ■yye expected, in all probabihty the oxen wquld have takejiii fijgh^, and occasioned some serious accident. We ieceive4 a hearty welcome &ozn l^e l^etb];en 9.1; La,!- 118 DESPERATE CmCUMSTANCES. shmbs sapless, barren, and blighted, as if by some blast of fire. Nothing animate was to be see^ or heard, except tha shrill chirping of a beetle resembling the cricket, the noise of which seemed to increase with the intensity of the heat. Not a cloud had been seen since we left our homes. We felt an irresistible inclination to remain at any bush which could afford the least shelter from the noonday's sun, the crown of the head having the sensation as if covered with live coal, and the mind wandering. My companion became rather wild. Having been anxious to spare him all the toil possible, I had for a long time carried the gun ; he asked for it, apparently to reheve me, but his motions were such that I was glad to recover possession of it. My difficulties and anxieties were now becoming painful in the extreme, not knowing any thing of the road, which was in some places hardly discernible, and in my faithful guide hope had died away. The horses moved at the slow- est pace, and that only when driven, which effort was labo- rious in the extreme. Speech was gone, and every thing expressed by signs, except when we had recourse to a pipe, and for which we now began to lose our rehsh. After sit- ting a long while under a bush, oh ! what a relief I felt when my guide poitited to a distant hill, near to, which water lay. Courage revived, but it was with pain and labour that we reached it late in the afternoon. Having still sufficient judgment not to go at once to drink, it was with great diffi- culty I prevented my companion doing that, which would almost instantly have proved fatal to him. Our horses went to the pool, and consumed nearly all the water, for it ap- peared that some wild horses had shortly before slaked their thirst at this spot, leaving for us but little, and that polluted. Becoming cooler after a little rest, we drank, and though moving with animalcule, muddy, and nauseous with filth, it was to us a reviving draught. We rested and drank, tUl the sun sinking in the west, compelled us to go forward^ in order to reach Griqua Town that night. Though we had filled our stomachs with water, if such it might be called, for it was grossly impure, thirst soon returned vvith increased agony ; and painful was the ride and walk, for they were alternate, until we reached at a late hour the abode of Mr. Anderson. Entering the dpoi; speechless, haggard,, emaciated,, and covered with perspiratioli and diiist, I soon procured by signs, that universal language, for myself and my companion a draught of water. Mr. A., expecting suph a visitor ftom, the ARRIVE AT GRIQUA TOWN. 119 moon, as soon as from Namaqua-land, was not a littlp sm> priised to find who it was. Kind-hearted Mrs. A. instantly prepared a cup of coSee and; some food, which I had npt tasted for three days ; and I felt aU the powers of soul revive, as if I had talked with angels — it was to me a " feast of reason and a flow of soul." Retiring to rest, the couch, though hard, appeared to me a dovsmy bed ; I begged Mr. A. just to -place within my leac];) half a bucket of water ; this he kindly and prudently refused, but left me lyith a full tumbler of unusual size ; such, however, was my fevered condition, that no sooner was he gone than I drank the whole. After reviewing the past, and looking upward with adoripg gratitude, I fell asleep, and arose in the Wf^ning as fresh as if I had never seen a desert, nor felt its thirst. We remained here a few days, in the course of VJfhioh ouf lost companions arrived, having, a.? we rightly supposed, wandered towards the river, and escaped ^e thirst which had nearly terminated our career in the desert. The society of the brethren Anderson and Helm, with their partners in labour, was most refreshing to my soul. A crowded and attentive congregation, and the buzz of the daily school, made me forget the toils of the road, and cheer- fully did I bear m,y testimony to the word of grace which had been so blessed among the Griquas. Wishing to visit Daniel's Kuil, B,erend's residence, about fifty miles north of Griqua Town, and also Lattakoo, on the Kuruman River, clearly as far beyond, my happiness was prolonged by the company of Mr. and Mrs. Anderson, who had promised to visit that station. On this journey we had another display of a kind and gracious Providence. After leaving Daniel's Kuil, Nicholas Berend, who was wagon driver and guide, lost his way b^ore reaching Camel fountain. This obliged us to halt i^ort of the water ; an^ Nicho|las, •yirho was an iiv teUigent and shrewd man, remarked again and again, in the course of the evening, that it was a very mysterious thing that A« should lose a path he knew so well. In the morning we inyp^d the wagons, and proceed,ed to the water, which lay far to the right ; and on arriving there, we saw, to ojir astoi^hm^iit and iristijuction, that we were led by a, way we knew not, for there had been several large tons abp]ut th^ water pool, apparently the whole n^ght. Had we arrived as Vfe expected, in all probabUity the oxen would have take;^ flight, and occasioipLed sopie serious accident. We ieceive4 a. hearty welcome &qm the Ijuretjupen at Lat- 120 THUNDKR-STOaM. takoo, where we stopped some days. This was the first time I had seen the Bechuanas, with the exception of a party of Batlaros, who visited Africaner; and when I 'ad- dressed them there, and now again in their own country, I little anticipated that it was to be the scene of my future la- bours. As I must necessarily occupy a considerable portion of this work with the Bechuana mission, it will he imneces- sary to refer to it in this place. We returned to Griqua Town, and after having made every inquiry respecting the object of my visit, and settled what report to make to Africaner, I prepared to return to Namaqua-land, and here I might close the record of my journey, were it not my wish to show the sad reverse of cir- cumstances which sometimes befalls the African equestrian in a houseless desert. In the afternoon, when bidding farewell to the dear bre- thren, with whom I could have wished to pass a month, Mr. A. remarked that the weather to the westward looked like a storm, but as these appearances often pass over without a drop of rain, we set off, and, trusting to the strength of our recruited horses, we hoped to pass through the desert to the Orange River, without much suffering. Mrs. A. had pro- vided us with some biscuit, which one of the men placed in a sack also containing tobacco. We intended to sleep at Witte Water that night, but long before we reached that place, we were overtaken by an awful storm of thunder. The peals were deafening, and our horses frequently started from each other at the vivid glare of the Kghtning. It poured torrents, so that by the time we reached the spot where we intended to halt, we were drenched to the skin. We let our horses go, and sat down like half-drowned cocks, at a bush which could afford us no shelter, either from wind or rain. After the vehemence of the storm had abated, we began to think what must be done, for by the falling hail and the piercing wind, we trembled as if we should die with cold. After much patient search, we foxind a very few sub stances capable of ignition, and struck a light in the only box where the tinder was dry, but in vain we looked for fuel to supply our fire ; we threw most of our clothes off, for the suffering with them on was unbearable, and leaving one to blo-w^ the fire, we sallied forth in quest of materials to burn. At some distance we succeeded in gathering a few small branches, when we found at least four hyenas looking on it a most daring manner, and resolved to. attack us. Such as had both hands occupied', soon relisved eilie, and with stones A WET night's LODGINCf. 121 scared them a little. But, alas ! the light of the little fire we had left, had disappeared, and we knew not the direc- tion from which we had come. We shouted to the man who had remained with it, but no answer, save the ugly howl of the hyenas. Now we were completely bewildered, every one pointing in a different direction, as that in which we had come. A second storm pelted us most unmercifully, and the wind seemed to penetrate through and through our almost naked frames. After a long search, we found the little bush, the man asleep, and the fire out. We threw down our crow-nests which we had gathered for fuel, re- solving to brave it out ; but the prospect was horrible, of shivering till the next diiy's sun should warm us. Each lay down in a lump, on a goat-skin, which had served as a sad- dle-cloth. Two of us tried to get down to dry earth, for though there had been a stream on the ground, it was scarcely six inches deep. Beyond our expectation, we feU asleep, and as I lay rather lower than some of my comrades, the rain and sand buried nearly the half of my body. It would be vain attempting to describe my feelings on awaking at day-break, stiff, cold, and dizzy ; my hair clotted with mud We crawled off to the pool of rain-water, and though very thick', we enjoyed a thorough ablution ; after wringing the w^ater out of our clothes, we put them on as they were, being obliged to proceed. Before starting, we resolved to have a delightful taste of our biscuit, but, alas ! when the contents of our bag were turned out, we found that the rain having saturated the tobacco and biscuit, the latter was re- duced to a darkjbrown paste ; smokers as we were, this dish was too unpalatable for us, and a good draught of muddy water had to supply the deficiency. As the sun arose towards the meridian, the heat became excessive ; and if we had been nearly frozen at night, we were almost scorched during the day ; and before we reached water the following night, we Would have given a crown for a bottle of that in which we had washed in the morning. Our return was little different from our outward journey, " in fastings oft." A kind Providence watched over us, and in some cases remarkably interposed in our behalf, which the following incident wiU show. We had passed the night without food ; and after a long day's ride, the sun was de-* scending on us, with Uttle prospect of meeting with any thing to assuage the pains of hunger, when, as we were de- scending from the high ground, weak and weary, we saw, at a great distance, on the opposite ridge, a line of dust ap- 1'24' THE POWER OF THE GOSPEL. for continuing the means of instruction during my absence. Nearly all the inhabitants accompanied us half a day's jour- ney to the banks of the Orange River; where we had to wait sisve'ral days, it having overflowed all its banks. The Kind- ness of the people, and the tears which were shed when we parted from them, were deeply affecting. Arriving at Pella, (the place as before stated, to which some of the people from Warm Bath had retired when the latter was destroyed by Africaner,) we had a feast fit for heaven-born souls, and subjects to which the seraphim above might have tuned their golden lyres. Men met who had not seen each other since they had joined in mutual combat for each other's woe ; met — warrior with warrior, bearing in their hands the olive branch, secure under the panoply of peace and love. They talked of Him who had subdued both, without a sword or spear, and each bosom swelled with purest friendship, and exhibited another trophy destined to adorn the triumph of the Prince of Peace, under whose banner each was promoting that reign in which — " No longer hosts encountering hosts, Their heaps of slain deplore ; They hang the trumpet in the hall, And study war no more." Here I again met with Mr. Bartlett and family, who, with the chief and people of the station, loaded us with kindness. We spent some pleasant days while the subject of getting Africaner safely through the territories of the farmers to the Cape, was the theme of much conversation. To some the step seemed somewhat hazardous. Africaner and I had fuUy discussed the point before leaving the station ; and I was confident of success. Though a chief, there was no need of laying aside any thing like royalty, with a view to travel in disguise. Of two substantial shirts left, I gave him one ; he had a pair of leather trowsers, a duffel jacket, much the worse for wear, and an old hat, neither white nor black, and my own garb was scarcely more refined. As a further pre- caution, it was agreed, that for once I should be thte fihief, and that he should assume the appearance of a servant, when it was desirable, and pass for one of my attendants. Ludicrous as the picture may appear, the subject was a grave one, and the season solemn and important ; often did I lift up my heart to Him in whose hands are the hearts of all men, that his presence might go with us. It might here be teraarked, once for all, that the Dutch farmers, notwithstand- A LUDICROUS SCENE. 125 ing all that has been said against them by some travellers, are, as a people, exceedingly hospitable and kind to stran- gers. Exceptions there are, but these are few, and perhaps more rare than in any country under the sun. Some of these worthy people on the borders of the colony, congratulated me on returning alive, having often heard, as they said, that I had been long since murdered by Africaner. Much wonder was expressed at my narrow escape froril such a monster of cruelty, the report having been spread that Mr. Ebner had just escaped by the skin of his teeth. While some would scarcely credit my identity ; my testimony as to the entire reformation of Africaner's character, and his con- version, was discarded as the effusion of a frenzied brain. It sometimes afforded no little entertainment to Africaner and the Namaquas, to hear a farmer denounce this supposed irreclaimable savage. There were only a few, however, who were sceptical on this subject. At one farm, a novel scene exhibited the state of feeling respecting Africaner and myself, and likewise displayed the power of Divine grace under pecuUar circumstances. It was neccessary, from the scarcity of water, to' call at such houses as lay in our road. The farmer referred 'to was a good man in the best sense of the word ; andiie and his wife had both shown me kindness on my way to Namaqua-land. On approaching the house, which was on an eminence, 1 directed my men to take the wagon to the valley below, while I walked toward the house. The farmer, seeing a stranger, came slowly down the descent to meet me. When within a few yards, I addressed him in the usual way, Ettid stretching out my hand, expressed my pleasure at seeing him again. He put his hand behind him, and asked me, rather wildly, who I was. I replied that I was Moffat, expressing my wonder that he should have forgotten me. "Moffat!" he rejoined, in a faltering voice; "it is your ghost !" and moved some steps backward. " I am no ghost." " Don't come near me !" he exclaimed, "you have been long murdered by Africaner." " But I am no ghost," I said, feeling my hands, as if to convince him and myself, too, of my materiaUty ; but his alarm only increased. " Everybody says you were murdered ; and a man told me he had seen your bones ;" and he continued to gaze at me, to the no small astonishment of the good wife and children, who were standing at the door, as also to that of mv people, who were looking on from the wagon below. At length he extended his trembling hand, saying, " When did you rise 11* 126 INCEEDULITY OF A FARMEE. from the dead?" As he feared my presence would alarm his .wife, we bent our steps towards the wagon, and Africaner was the subject of our conversation. I gave him in a few words my views of his present character, saying, "He. is. '^°y„JiJruly^Qfld_inaa." To which he rephed, " I can believe almost any thing you say, but that I cannot credit ; there are seven wonders in the world, that would be the eighth." I ajpfi^ led to the displays of Divine grace in a Paulj a Manasseh, and referred to his own experience."~ He repliRrij _thRSR_ yvere another desc npUr"'' "^' mRn,~Tiiit. tViat A frirnnrr wn^i nnn nf th" nn^iHrsfld snP' "<" 'Ham^ enumerating some of the atrocities of which he had been guilty. By this time we were standing with Africaner at our feet, on whose countenance sat a smUe, well knowing the prejudiqes of some of the farmers. The farmer closed the conversation by saying, with much earnestness, " Well, if what you assert be true respecting that man, I have only one wish, and that is, to see him before I die ; and when you return, as sure as the sun is over our heads, I will go with you to see him, though he kUled my own uncle." I was not before aware of this fact, and now felt some hesitation whether to discover to him the object of his wonder ; but knowing the sincerity of the farmer, and the goodness of his disposition, I said, "This, then, is Africaner!" He started back, looking in- tensely at the man, as if he had just dropped from the clouds. "Are you Africaner?" he exclaimed. He ajrose, doffed his old hat, and making a poUte bow, answered, " I am." The farmer seemed thunder-struck ; but when, by a few questions, he had assured himself of the fact, that the former bugbear of the border stood before him, now meek and lamb-like in his whole deportment, he lifted up his eyes, and exclaimed, " O God, what a miracle of thy power I what cannot thy grace accomplish!" The kind farmer, and his no less hospitable wife, now abundantly supplied our wants ; but we hastened our departure, lest the inteUigence might get abroad that Africaner was with me, and bring unpleasant visitors. On arriving at Cape Town, I waited on his Excellency the Governor, Lord Charles S^aroerspt, who appeared to receive with considerable scepticism, my testimony that I had brought the far-famed Africaner on a visit to his Excel- lency. The following day was appointed for an interview, when the chief was received by Lord Charles with great affabihty and kindness; and he expressed his pleasure at seeing thus before him, one who had formerly been the SENSATION PRODTTCED. 127 scourge of the country, and the terror of the border colonists. His_£xJifillency was evidently much struck with this result or niissionary^enterEHse, the benefit of which he had some- times doubted. I remembered when I first arrived at Cape Town, the reply to my memorial for permission to proceed to my destination in Great Namaqua-land, was, that his Excellency had cogent reasons for not complying with my request, and I was obliged to renniain eight months in the colony : this time was not, hdwever, lost, for it was turned to advantage by learning the Dutch language, and attend- ing to other pfelirainaries for a missionary campaign. What- ever he might think of his former views, his Excellency was now convinced that a most important point had been gained ; and, as a testimony of his good feeling, he presented Afri- caner with an excellent wagon, value eighty pounds sterling. A short time previous to my visit to the Cape, a deputa tion from the London Missionary Society, consisting of the Revds. J. Campbell and Dr. Philip, arrived for the purpose of examining the state of our African missions, and to them Africaner's visit was a subject of deep interest. It appeared to be one of the baggiest^ moments_of Mr. Campbell's life to hold converse witn tEe ma n, at whose very name, on his first visit to TN amaqua-land^ he had trembled, but on whom, in answer to many prayers, he now looked as a brother be- loved. Often while interpreting for Mr. C, in his inquiries, I have been deeply affected vidth the overflow of soul ex- perienced by both, while rehearsing the scenes of bygone days. Africaner's appearance in Cape Town, excited consider- able attention, as his name and exploits had been familiar to many of its inhabitantsfor more than twenty years. Many were struck with the unexpected mildness and gentleness of his demeanour, and others with his piety and accurate know- ledge of the Scriptures. His New Testament was an inter- esting object of attention, it was so completely thumbed and worn by use. His answers to a number of questions put to him by the friends in Cape Town, and at a public meeting at the Paarl, exhibited his diligenee as a student in the doc- trines of tlie_Gosgel, especially wLen it is remembered that AfrieaiieTjiever saw a Catechism in his life, but obtained all his knowledge on theological subjects from a careful perusal of the Scriptures, and the verbal instructions of the mis- sionary. My object in coming to the colony was twofold ; to pro- cure supplies, and to introduce Africaner to the notice of the 128 Ai-mCANEE.'s JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. Colonial Government. With the fullest hope of returning to my flock, who had now become exceedingly dear to me, I had made purchases on the road to take with ihe on «iy return ; but this was not to take place, for it was the wish of the Deputation, that 1 should accompany them in their visits to the missionary stations, and eventually be appointed to the Beohuana mission. To me this was at fii'st a startling pro- position, and one to which I acceded with much reluctance, and not tiU Africaner gave his entire consent, which he did with great diffidence and modesty, having some slight hope, in which I concurred, that he might with his people remove to that neighborhood, having been frequently invited by a tribe of the Bechuanas, parties of whom were wont to trade v/ith him in Namaqua-land. Africane r and party left with mingled emotions, and were kindly supplied widi a goye^;gi- m ent passport_i o ensure the friendship andraTfention of ftie coloiaists, through whose lands they must pass. The remaining particulars of this gogilBaji's career must now be related as briefly as possible ; to which I propose to add some observations on the termination of our missionary operations in Namaqua-land. He very generously offered to take my books and a few articles of furniture I had pur- chased, in his vvagon across the continent to Lattakoo. During my stay at Cape Tovm, Miss Smith, to whom I had been long previously engaged, arriving from England, we were united, and we accompanied Mr. Campbell on his second visit to Lattakoo. Here we were favoured with one more short but dehghtful interview. This faithfaland afiec- tionate friend remembered his promise, and brought me the articles, of which he knew I must stand in need. Nearly a year had intervened, and he had spent the time in conjunc- tion with his brothers David and Jacobus, in continuing the public services, and teaching in the schools at the station, while I had been on the tour with the Deputation. . Mr. Campbell being about to return to England, Africaner travelled with us as far as Daniel's Kuil to accompany hirn, where he met the Griqua chief, Berend Berend, with whom, as stated in a former chapter, he had had many a deadly contest. Being now both converts to the faith, all their former animosities were melted away by the gospel of peace and love. These chiefs sat down together in our tent with a number of people, when all united in singiiig a hymn of praise to God, and listening to an address, from the invita- tion of Jehovah to the ends of the earth to look to Him, and Him alone, for salvation. After which, they knelt at the mS DEATH. 129 same stool, before the peaceful throne of the Redeemer ; thus the Gospel makes — " Lions, and beasts of savage name, Put on the natvire of the Lamb." We parted, with some hope that we might see him again : but no — it was the last farewell ; for scarcely two years had elapsed when he was called to enter into the joy of his Lord. This he had anticipated, with the fuU assurance of hope, believing that, " when his earthly house should be dissolved, he would have a building of God." — The closing scene of his life is faithfully delineated by the Rev. J. Archbell, Wes- leyan missionary, in a letter to Dr. Philip, dated March 14th, 1823 :— " When he found his end approaching, he called all the people together, after the example of Joshua, and gave them directions as to their future conduct. ' We are not,' said he, ' what we were, savages, but men pro- fessing to be taught according to the Gospel. Let us then do accordingly. Ijve peaceably with all men, if possible : and if impossible, consult those who are placed over you, before you engage in any thing. Remain toge- ther, as you have done since I knew you. Then, when the Directors think fit to send you a missionary, you may be ready to receive him. Be- have to any teacher you may have sent as one sent of God, as I have freat hope that God will bless you in this respect when I am gone to eaven. I feel that I love God, and that he has done much for me, of which I am totally unworthy. " ' My former life is stained with blood ; but Jesus Christ has pardoned me, and I am going to heaven. Oh ! beware of falling into the same evils into which I have led you frequently ; but seek God, and he vrill be found of you to direct you.' " Africaner was a man of sound judgment, and of undaunted courage ; and although he himself was one of the first and the severest persecutors of the Chnstian cause, he would, had he lived, have spilled his blood, if necessary, for his missionary." Many had been the refreshing hours we had spent togeth- er, sitting or walking, tracing the operations of the word and Spirit on his mind, which seemed to have been first excited under the ministry of Christian Albrecht. Subsequent to that period, his thoughts were frequently occupied while looking around him, and surveying the " handy-works " of God, and asking the question, " Are these the productions of some great Being? — ^how is it that his name and charac- ter have been lost among the Namaquas, and the knowledge of Him confined to so few ? — ^has that knowledge only lately come to the world? — ^how is it that he does not address mankind in oral language?" His mind had received an impetus, not from the light of nature, bright as her page ap- 130 DREAMS AND VISIONS. pears, to one even partially illumined by the voice of revela* tion, i)ut from what he had heard from the missionary. The torch of Divine truth, v^hich had but just begun to irradiate ■with its yet feeble rays his intellectual powers, had been by his own violence removed far beyond his reach, and he was thus left to grope hke one in the dark ; but dark as his soul was, he cpuld not retire from the ruins of Warm Bath with- out a pang. In trying to grasp the often indistinct rays of light, which would occasionally flit across his partially awakened understanding, he became the more bewildered, especially when he thought of the spirit of the Gospel mes- sage, " Good-will to man." He often wondered whether the book he saw some of the farmers use said any thing on the subject ; and then he would conclude, that if they wor- shipped any such being, he must be one of a very different character from that God of love to whom the missionaries directed the attention of the Namaquas. It was at a period when Africaner's judgment appeared to be wavering, and when he was about to dismiss for ever from his thoughts the graver subjects of revelation, death) and immortality, that he had rather a remarkable dream, which gave his mind a bias it never afterward forsook. Al- though I admit, with many others, that dreams may be of three classes, human, satanic, and divine, — those of the lat- ter class being very rare, — I have ever found it necessary to discourage, rather than to countenance, a regard to them among the heathen, on whose minds light has just begun to break, and who, under their first impressions, are very prone to give a superstitious interpretation to dreams, some of which are of too monstrous a character to be permitted an asylum iii the mind. These generally obtain currency among the ignorant, and such as feel more pleasure in hawking about their nocturnal reveries, than spending their time in learning to read the law and the testimony ; and the delusion does not stop here ; they hear of visions, "sjnd think that they may come in for a share of them, and thus bring back the ancient dispensation, adding to dreams unearthly sights. I have heard of some who had seen an angel behind a bush ; of others who had beheld the Saviour, and could tell his form ; of some who have heard a voice from heaven ; of others who have gone as far as Jerusalem, hke Mahomet, though not on an ass, and ascended to the third heaven, and returned the same night. When these things have found place, the missionary finds it necessary gently to introduce Africaner's dream. 131 other matters into their channels of reflection, and impart a genuine currency in the place of that base coin, which, alas, is sometimes vended in more enlightened countries than Af rica. But Africaner was a man who never dealt in such commodities. In the development of his Christian experi- ence, his motto was, " Thus saith the Lord." The following I heard him relate only once, and it seemed then to have been revived in his mind by looking at a mountain opposite to which we sat, and along the steep sides of which ran a narrow path to the top. He supposed, in his dream, that he was at the base of a steep and rugged mountain, over which he must pass by a path, leading along an almost perpendicular precipice to the summit. On the left of the path, the fearful dechvity pre- sented one furnace of fire and smoke, mingled with hght- oing. As he looked round to flee from a sight which made ais whole frame tremble, one appeared out of those murky vegions, whose voice, like thunder, said that there was no escape but by the narrow path. He attempted to ascend thereby, but felt the reflected heat from the precipice (to which he was obliged to cling) more intense than that from the burning pit beneath. When ready to sink with mental and physical agony, he cast his eyes upwards beyond the "burning gulf, and saw a person stand on a green mount, on which the sun appeared to shine with peculiar briUiancy. This individual drew near to the ridge of the precipice, and beckoned him to advance. Shielding the side of his face with his hands, he ascended, through heat and smoke, such as he would have thought no human frame could endure. He at last reached the long desired spot, which became in- creasingly bright, and when about to address the stranger, he awoke. On asking him what was his interpretation of the dream, he rephed, that it haunted his mind for a long time, like a poisonous thorn in the flesh, and he could bear to reflect on it only when, as he said, with great simplicity, " I thought the path was the narrow road leading from destruction to safety, from hell to heaven ; the stranger I supposed to be that Saviour of whom I had heard, and long were my thoughts occupied in trying to discover when and how I was to pass along the burning path ;" adding, with tears in his eyes, " Thank God I have passed." It may not be improper, before concluding the subject of the mission to Africaner, to notice the cause why a mission- ary was not sent according to promise. That I did not for- 132 MISSION RELINQUISHED. get to urge it, may be seen from the following extract iirom one of my letters to the Directors :— r '■ But whilst they afford cause for eratitude, it is to be recollected, that their situation calls for sympathy andhelp at your hands. You have had the honour of sending them the glad tidings of the Gospel, which have been blessed in a singular manner to many who were fprmerly buried in degradation and guilt. I have there seen the lion b-ecome a lamb, the captive set at liberty, and the mourner comforted ; yea, more, I have seen men, once the dupes of ignorance and vice, sweetly falling asleep in Jesus ; others exulting, as they departed out of life, and saying, ' It is finished for guilty me. Sometimes my solitary moments are interrupted with their doleful complaints. 'You have snatched us from heathen darkness; discovered to us the enemies of our never-dying souls ; pointed us to the Lamb of God, and withdrawn the curtain of the eternal world. We see the crown that awaits the faithful, but why have you left us to finish tlie warfare alone 1 The battle is great, and our strength is small, and we are ready to perish for lack of knowledge.' Such is the situation of that interesting people, and surely such a situatiftn demands sympathy and help." This appeal was not forgotten ; but the expectation that the people would remove, according to their original inten- tion, to another part of the country, caused some delay on the part of the Directors, Mr. Schmelen, also, who had la- boured so successfully in Great Namaqua-land, and whose enterprise planted a station at Bethany, two hundred miles beyond the Orange River, had been compelled to retire to- wards the colony, and abandon the Great Namaqua mission for a season, owing to the unsettled state of the country, and a civil war on the station. At the same time, Africaner's people separated, one part going towards the Fish River, where Jonker, alas, carried on the character of a freebooter, taking the cattle of the Damaras, while another part re- mained behind, on the old station, and kept up the worship of God. At that period the mania for war extended from the Zoo- lus near Port Natal on the east, to Angra Pequena Bay on the west. Commencing with the Zoolus, Matabele, and Mantatees, the demon of war seemed to fly from people to people, and the numerous tribes of the Bechuana and Basuto appeared for a while devoted to destruction. Griquas, Co- rannas, and Namaquas, though last not least, from their con- tiguity to the Colony, possessing superior means of carrying on the bloody game, continued with few exceptions, to scat- ter devastation, distress, and woe, until the vengeance of Heaven fell both on them and their ill-gotten spoils. These were days of trial, and scarcely a missionary station escaped unscathed north of the Orange River. THE WEBLEYANS RESUME THE MISSION. 133 As soon as these troubles began to subside in Namaqua- land, our Wesleyan brethren nobly extended their efforts to that country. Their labours have been crowned with suc- cess, and I have watched their onward progress with as much interest as if I had been one of their number. The field being thus ably occupied, it was unnecessary for the London Missionary Society to send others, while the character of the country already described, with its scanty population, and the cry for missionaries to carry on the work in more import- ant fields, influenced the Directors to leave that section of the missionary world to our Wesleyan brethren. While preparing the preceding pages, 1 received from Mr. J. Backhouse a tract entitled, " Effects of the Gospel on the Africaner Family," the perusal of which has afforded me the most grateful pleasure. Messrs. Backhouse and Walker, two valuable members of the Society of Friends, have recently visited the Missionary stations in the South Seas, as well as those in South Africa. The results of their observation, as reported by them, are very satisfactory. In reference to the people of Namaqua-land, Mr. B. writes in a letter addressed to myself: — " I have no doubt but thou wilt be interested in learning, that the Wesleyans are reap- ing an encouraging hai-vest in Great Namaqua-land, from the seed sown in former days by the London Missionary So- ciety, in which thou hadst a part." On the resumption of the Warm Bath station, (now Nes- bit Bath) and Africaner's Krall as an out-station, and the pleasing fruits which have followed the labours of Mr. Cook and others, the conversion of Titus Africaner, and the con- sequent peace and harmony among the people, once engag- ed in warlike strife, the writer of" the tract makes the follow- ing judicious remarks. " In tracing the history of the Afri- caner family in the preceding pages, the reader will proba- bly have been struck with the evidence it affords of the effi- cacy of the Gospel, notwithstanding it may have been im- perfectly received, as well as the importance of attending to the counsel, ' In the morning sow thy seed, and in the even- ing withhold not thine hand ; for thou knowest not whether shall prosper, either this or that ; or whether they both shall be alike good.' " From Mr. Cook's communications, it appears that there is a prospect of further openings in the interior, and even the Damara country may, ere long, become the field of mission- ary labour. It must be acknowledged, however, that diffi- culties almost insuperable present themselves in liie way of 12 134 DIFFICULTIES 1NEVITABLB. carrying on missions in the back parts of Namaqua-land, and the country of the Damaras, from local circumstances ; and, until there is a change of seasons, the Namaqua missions wiU continue to struggle as they have done, even though planted and supported on the most liberal principles. Ex- pensive they must be to make them efficient, and the agents employed wiU have to lead a self-denying life, as loiig as their resources for themselves, as well as means of civilizing the people, have to be brought overland from Cape Town. Even were boring for water introduced, unless there be more rain in the country, the people must ever lead a wandering life ; an obstacle to missionary success complained of by all. A considerable time must elapse before the missionary can reach the understanding directly by his own voice, from the extireme difficulty of acquiring their clicking language ; and although the Dutch is gradually supplanting it, much time will be necessary for the latter to become general. « Mr. Schmelen translated the four Gospels into the Nama- qua language, which were printed by the British and Foreign Bible Society. This, from the character of the language, must have been a work of much labour. Whether the Wesleyan brethren intend to carry on their work through the medium of the Namaqua or the Dutch language, I have not been able to ascertain. It wquldb e no gref t. Insjp if tViw. Hottentot lang ua ge were annihilated ; "though from the scat- tejred state of the population,' it is not probable that this will soon be the case. But the zeal by which our Wesleyan bre- thren are distinguished, supported by an extensive native agency, may overcome all these difficulties, which would be greatly diminished were it possible to fix a missionajy station on the sandy and sterile shores of Angra Pequena, and Wal- visch Bays. These places have been visited by Schmelen,* Archbell, and Sir J. Alexander ; but from all accounts the whole ex- tent of the coast presents little to encourage such a plan. The banks of some of the rivers, in which water seldom flows, may be traced in their winding courses by acacias, the timber of which is of the poorest description. Ebony trees are also thinly scattered in the neighbourhood of the Orange river, but neither there nor in the open country is any thing like timber to be found, which would authorize commercial speculations, as a late traveller into that country reoom- * It is reported that Mr. Schmelen went to those places, but the author cannot vouch that he reached the latter. Mr.^ Archbell visited it by sea. MISSION TO THE ORIQUAS. 135 itiended. Independently of the Orange river not being nav- igable, and the want of suitable bays on the coast, the im- possibility of the country being benefitted from those quar- ters, wiU "he evident. I feel persuaded that the period has arrived, when we must abandon the idea of long, expensive, tiresome, and in some instances dangerous journeys, either from the promontory of the Cape, or, from Algoa Bay, to re- mote distances in the interior. It is now quite time to look to the eastern and western coasts of the continent, and form a chain of stations, from either, or both, towards the centre j and estabhsh Missionary Colonies on lakes, or at the sources of those rivers which fall into the ocean. The want of nav- igable rivers, and the dry and often desert countries to be passed in Southern Africa in order to reach our isolated sta- tions, present grievous barriers to the work of civilization, and in some pajrts we have got nearly to that point, at which resources from the south wiU be beyond the reach of the ability, either of the missionary or his people. CHAPTER XIIL It is an agreeable and profitable exercise, to take a retro- spective view of those events, whatever their character, which have led to important results ; and surely, to the mind of the missionary, it must be delightful to look baqk along the channel, tracing through all its windings the little riU of the water of life, until it is observed oozing from beneath a mountain peak. Like an African river, it now swells, and then dwindles, — is now rapid,*then slowly spreads its refresh- ing waters over a large surface of desert waste, — now disap- pears, and then rises in another part of its course, in which it resumes a steady flow — affording, at all seasons, perma- nent fertility, to the advantage of those who assemble on its banks, or come within the range of its influence. The mind of the writer has been led to these reflections by a minute survey of the rise g,nd progress of the Griqu a mission, which, although embracing more variety in the na- HonaT character of its objects than perhaps any other in Afriea, exhibits much sameness ; but, nevertheless, its Ms- 186 ITS OEIOm AND CHAEACTfiE. tory, extending to more than forty years, presents us with some remarkable displays of Divine power in causing mis- sionary enterprise to triumph over~no~c'ommon difficulties. Its fluctuations have been very numerous, but this is not sur- prising, when it is remembered that it was commenced at the Zak River, on the borders of the colony, in the year 1799, being one of the two branches of the Missionary Society'^' first eiForts in South Africa. It was in the beginning osten- sibly a mission to the Bushmen, but it had not been long founded before it included within its operation both Hotten- tots and Bastards. Two years had not elapsed when its ef- forts were chiefly devoted to the Corannas, Namaquas, and Bastards on the Orange river, the. missionaries having re- sorted thither on the invitation of Berend Berend. From these again a select party, though a mixed multitude, finally terminated a migratory life, by settling down at Griqua Town in 1804, with Messrs. Anderson and Kramer. Sometimes one missionary might be heard addressing the few who understood Dutch ; another, a congregation of Co- rannas ; and a third, a party of Bushmen, through interpre- ters. They were distinct tribes, having different languages, customs, and grades of honour, from that of the descendant of the colonial farmer, to the very lowest state of degradation in the Bushmen. Their gfflv;grnment._ijLtbjey.had an]^_at all, was of a mingled character, comprising the patriarchaipJes^ potic, monarchical, aristocratic, and democratic, each party having its claims, either of birth, power, number, or heredi- tary right; exhibiting all the phases of a tropical thunder cloud, which rolls in wild and black confusion, tiU it bursts forth, scattering terror and death. It is not the intention of the writer to be a chronicler of the events connected with the progress of this mission, or even to attempt an abridgment of the voluminous details which have been long pubhshed. His object is briefly to glance at its more prominent*features and changes, and.tp,. trace the dealings of Divine providence and grace in sustain- ing those devoted missionaries, who, taki ng their Hy es in their hands, and sallying forth far beyonS the abodes of civi- lization, 2gr5Svg£ed, amid the rage and cupidity of a reckless rabble, in the self-denying duties of their holy calling, until they were crowned with triumphant success. This station required all the energies of the missionary, as may be observed from the brief sketch already given of the character of the people, and their isolated condition in a lawless country. Their circumstances, afflictions, and pros- ME. Anderson's description. 137 pects, cannot be better described than in Mr. Anderson's own words : — " When I went among the Grii^uas, and for some time after, they were with^t th e smallest maAs of civiUzation. If I except one woman, (who ha3 By 'S)me means got a trmmg article of colonial raiment,) they had not one thread of European clothing among them ; and t heir wretche. d a ppearance and h ahif^< ; w«ra gni-^t aa tpigh t have excited in Bar minds an aversion to t hem, had we no t been acfuateiTEiy principles w mch led as tp ptty themi"aihd served to strengthen us in pursuing the object of our mis- sionary work ; they were, in many instances, little above the brutes. It is a fact, that we were among them at the hazard of our lives. This be- came evident from their own acknowledgments to us afterwards, they having confessed that they had frequently premeditated to take away our lives, and were prevented only from executing their purposes by what they now considered an Almighty Power. When we went among them, and some time after, they lived m the habit of plundering one another ; and they saw no moral evil. in this nor in any of their actions. Violent deaths were common; and I recollect many of the aged women told me their husbands had been killed in this way. Their usual manner of liv- ing was truly disgusting, and they were voidjoLshame ; however, after a series' of hardships, which required much tSltth'JEHdTJatience, our instruc- tions were attended with a blessing which produced a great change. The peop le became ho nest in their dealings ; they came to abhor those acts of plunder which had been so common' among them; nor do I recollect a single instance, for several years prior to their late troubles, which could be considered as a stain upon their character. They entirely abandoned their former manner of life, and decency and modesty prevailed in their families. When we first settled among them, we had some Hottentots with us from the Zak River. With their assistance we began to culti- vate the ground about Riet Fonteyn ; but notwithstanding our exhorta- tions, remonstrances, and example, the Grriquas manifested the greatest aversion to such work, and appeared determined to continue their wan- dering and predatory habits. At the end of six months the Hottentots left us ; and our prospects, as to the future cultivation of the ground, be- came very gloomy. We determined, however, to abide by them ; and in wandering about vnth them, we constantly endeavoured to impress upon their minus the superior advantages they would derive from cultivating the ground, and having fixed habitations. After a considerable time had elapsed, we prevailed upon them to try the experiment, and a commence- ment was made. This event was preceded and followed by a great and visible improvement among them as a body. Considering the circum- staxices of the people, much land was cultivated at this time ; and in the following years the land under cultivation was much increased. I have seen the whole valley, from the Fountain to the Lion's Den, which must include four square miles, covered with corn and barley. This refers to Griqua Town alone ; and the ground around the neighbouring fountains was in a similar state of improvement." From other communications from Mr. A., it also appears, that as early as 1809, the congregation consisted of 800 persons, who resided at or near the station during the whole, or the greatest part of the year. Besides their stated congregations, they were surrounded by numerous hordes of Corannas and Bushmen, among whom they laboured. 12* 138 IMPOUTIC MEAStTRE. If we look at the state of moral tuijitnde in "^hich tHe' missionaries found that peopIe7 these results, it must be acknowledged, were very extraordinary. A threatened attack from a marauding horde of Kafirs, in 1810, 'was evidently averted, in answer to prayer. Mr. Jantz, the only missionary then on the place, with the good people, set apart a day for special supplication ; and they sent a pacific message and present to the Kafirs, after which they imme- diately Tetiired- Mr. J.antz, whose whole conduct on this occasion seems to have been marked with the true spirit of piety, says, " Now we must leave it in the hands of the Lord, hoping to see his loving kindness in confirming the work of our hands, and granting us a complete dehverance. This is my prayer, t bgt we may be so firmly established by the Lord, that no enemy may be able to hurt this church; for, as a lonj falher, he haih hitherto taken care ol us ; so that, instead of complaint, we have cause for thankfulness, that the doctrines of the Gospel, accompanied by the power of his Spirit, have had so much influence on some of our people, that, by means of their Christian exhortation and example, they have subdued the ungovemed spirit of the Kafirs." The mission continued to flourish ; extending its benign influence for several years, till an unlocked for event gave a shock, from which it did not soon recover. It was not an unnatural supposition, that the govemrnent of the Cape, finding that the labours of the m issioHar ies had been so beneficial in transforming a people, who otherwise might have beeuj like Africaiier, a terror to "the colony, and helped to drain its coflers in fruitless commandoes, would have tendered their assistance to the growing commonwealth, and afibrded means of encouragement and protection in a country where they were exposed, as in the above case, to a foreign enemy. But this was not the pohcy of those days. In 1814, Mr. Anderson, received an order from the colonial government, to send down to the Cape twenty Griquas for the Cape regiment. Mr. A. was never, as he informed me, amidst all his trials, placed in so painful a situation. The only wonder was, that the people did not stone him when he made the proposal, to which duty compelled him. Was it possible that a people just emerging from barbarisrti, and scarcely able to defend themselves, would send twenty of their best men to serve at the Cape ? The result of non- compliance with this order was a threat from government, and the introduction of a restrictive system, by which mis- CRiriCAL SITUATION. 139 sionaries were prevented from' crossing the northern bound- ary of the colony. Mr. Anderson had hitherto been viewed by the Griqnas as the founder and father of that mission, to whom they were all in the daily habit of looking up for coujisel and advice, in whatever had a reference to their temporal as well as their spiritual interests. He had also been the means of commimication between them and the colonial government, ajid was virtually an agent. The Griquas, from the above demand originating, as they supposed, from this connexion, were embittered against Mr. A. His life was threatened ; and soon after a party vnthdrew from the mission, which kept the people in a state of political ferment ; and though a great majority remained, they were by no means cordial ; so that Mr. Anderson found it necessary to withdraw, that his presence might not give the shadow of offence to the awakened jealousy of those among whom he had laboured with such signal success. In his farewell sermon he made the following terse and unique comparison : " Formerly I went out and in among you as your father, your friend, and your guide ; but now I am compelled to leave you, viewed by you as nothing better than a dry stalk of maize." But, notwithstanding the bit- terness of political strife and discontent in which he left tliem, they afterwards deeply mourned over their ingratitude. The writer having Uved on the station, together with Mr. Helm, for nearly a year after Mr. A.'s departure, had innu- merable opportunities of witnessing how warmly they cherished the memory of one who had for twenty years laboured among them in circumstances of great privation and affliction. He exemphfied zeal and perseverance,' which was crowned with remarkable success ; and, doubt- less, distant generations will venerate the names of Ander- son and Kramer, as the founders of the Griqua mission. Although the mission was thus deprived of the valuable labours of Mr. Anderson, Mr. Helm, his colleague, most efficiently suppUed his pKice. Mr. H. was a man of consi- derable acquirements ; in whose character were blended, in an eminent degree, an unflinching faithfulness to the souls of men, and great meekness and humility. His graces had been long tried on a hard campaign, in a Coraitna mission on the Orange River. The events now recorded, prove to a demonstration that it is not the duty of the missionary to takie an active part ih political affairs. In order to save the mission from rub, it 140 WATERBOER ELECTED CffiEF. was necessary to make a vigorous stand against interference on the part of the missionaries with the government of the people. My appointed sojourn, as the coadjutor of Mr. Helm, was intended to assist in abolishing a system which had thus burst asunder the sacred ties betwee^n pastor and people, and caused the removal of Mr. A. to a sphere of labour within the colony. The task was a hard one, from the entire dis- organization which existed; and the Directors justly re- marked, in reference to that appointment, " But it is painful to add, that the difficulties with which they have to contend from the irregular habits of many of the people, will require the greatest firmness, as well as the most persevering efforts to subdue." These efforts were eventually crowned with success. The former chief, Adam Kok, late of PhiUppolis, had abandoned Griqua Town, and Berend Berend, the ac- knowledged chief, hved at Daniels Kuil, a distance of fifty mUes, attending only to the interests of those about him, and very rarely visiting Griqua Town ; neither would he appoint a representative there. For some months the affairs of the place looked like a ship's company without helm or compass; and the conse- quences were sometimes serious, and frequently ludicrous. The hint was given, to appoint one of tlieir own number to take the government of the vUlage. The idea was eagerly embraced ; the elders of the people met, and one would have thought that an elder would have been elected ; but no, they unanimously voted Andries Waterboer to the office of chief This was a decision which reflected the highest honour on the judgment of the Griquas, for the person on whom they had fixed their attention, was one who possessed neither name nor riches. He had enjoyed advantages, hav- ing been educated on the station, under the eye of the mis' sionaries ; had been with others set apart as a native teacherj and had long been employed as an assistant in the school where he was found on the very day of his appointment. We had neither part nor lot in the matter, though it afforded us entire satisfaction. This was a new era in the Griqua mission, which brought it to a state so ardently desired ; and the mission-houses in- stead of being turned into a kind of council-chamber, were visited only by such as had cases of conscience to propose, or what had a reference to the general welfare of the church of God. I might here make an exception. Andries, who was not prepared for this new station, soon felt the resp'»risi- bUity of his office. He had no opportunities of studyinj the HIS THIRST FOR INFORMATION. 141 science of government from books, (Minos, Lycurgus, and Solon were names unknown to him!) and had heard little efse than the principles of law, derived from the Bible, the best foundation for the laws of nations. He felt his defi- ciency, and thirsted for information ; and for months togetlier we spent several evenings a week, after it was supposed all were gone to rest, conversing on these subjects. Though I did little more than reply to his numerous in- quiries, yet, having been placed there for the express object of lending my aid to abolish the old system, I naturally felt the task a delicate one. At the same time neither Mr. Helm nor I could see any impropriety in giving him what mformation we could on the history of nations, and their po- htical economy. Froq» this and other circumstances, he long retained a grateful sense of his obhgations, and a warm friendship of many years ensued. The chief Waterboer at the commencement of his career was considered severe in his administration, when contrasted with that of former days, in which insubordination was allowed to take deep root. As might be expected, his strict discipUne gave rise to divisions, sifting the Griquas of those who cared for neither law nor gospel. From theise again arose BergenaarS or mountaineers and marauders, round whose stamdards Corannas and Bushmen raUied ;' and find- ing no difficulty in obtaining contraband ammunition from the colony, they carried devastation, blood, and rapine among all the Bechuana tribes within their reach. Even on Griqua Town itself they made two desperate attacks, which, though happily attended with little loss of life on either side, justly excited much alarm in the mission families, surrounded as they were by ruthless desperadoes inured to violence and murder. It may be proper, in this place, to notice the origin of these attacks, as well as the circumstances of a preceding one, on the inhabitants of Griqua Town, when Mr. Sass was the only missionary on the station. The chief Waterboer, in conjunction with J. Melvill, Esq.,* (now one of our mission- aries,) anxious to put a stop to the devastations committed by the Bergenaars on the Basuto, and other Bechuana tribes, endeavoured to disperse the party. For this purpose their strongholds were attacked; and, though every species of warfare is to be deprecated as the world's curse, the fol- lowing extract of a letter from Mr. Melvill to the Editor * Mr. Melvill was at that time government agent. 142 GENEROUS CONDUCT. of the South African Chronicle, beautifully illustrates the moral and civilizing tendency of the Gospel in relation to the Griquas. * " The Griqua chiefs, A. "Waterboer and Cornelius Kok, proceeded U the station of the Bergenaars, to take such measures as might put a stoj to the system of depredation they were carrying on against the tribet around them. " Instead of the Bergenaars showing any disposition to alter their con- duct, they set the commando at defiance, and maintained that attitude till night came on with rain, when they made their escape. The com- mando returned to Griqua Town, with 4000 head of cattle, followed by some hundreds of the people of the plundered tribes, to whom a consider- able part of the cattle belonged ; and, before their arrival at Griqua Town, contrary to the practice of savage tribes, a scene of justice took place, which would have done credit to any civilized people. The chiefs re- stored to these poor people, Basutos, all their cattle, without reserving a single hoof to themselves, to which any one of them could establish a right. When the people had got their cattle, they were told they might go to their own country; but they were so struck with the justice of the Griqua chiefs, that they begged to be allowed to put thcrnselves under their protection ; and accordingly Hhey followed them to the Griqua country." To the preceding may be added the following facts, as they exlybit a pleasing evidence of missionary influence in promoting pea ce. It was found necessary for Mr. Melvill Effl"the Griqua chiefs, with- some of their leading men, to visit Cape Town. Mr. Helm was on a visit to the same place, on account of his wife's health. Mr. Sass, who had long laboured in Little Namaqua-land, and among the Co- rannas on the banks of the Orange River, was alone at the station when the Bergenaars came against the place for purposes of sheer revenge. On discovering that a missionary was there, they retired to a distance, and sent for him. The venerable Sass, who had been in labours abundant, entered the camp of the ruthless and lawless banditti. He had no sling, no stone. His weapons were from the armoury of heaven. His humble, devout, and persuasive address to the leaders of the gang calmed their rage, and saved the in- habitants from impending destruction. " Here," as Mr. Melvill writes, "we see a missionary has so much respect attached to his character, that even the Bergenaars would not attack the p^ce because he was there : the presence of Mr. Sass afforded a protection to the whole people." The particulars of a subsequent attack on Griqua Town are minutely described in the Society's Monthly Chronicle for January, 1828; affording an additional instance of the RETKIBUXIVE FKOVIDENCE. 143 station teing preserved by the Divine blessing on missionary influence. But Griqua Town survived by the blessing of God, on the intrepid and persevering efforts of Waterboer to establish the principles of ojder and peace. He has always continued to preach, as well as to exercise his office as a ,piagistrate j and though in the eyes of many this union of office is inex- pedient, he has ever maintained his cause ; and having ob- tained a liberal salary and ordnance supplies from the colo- nial government, he is able to present the Griquas in an as: pect his enemies never contemplated. A retributive Providence accomplished that which Water- boer had neither men nor means to carry into effect ; for he could neither punish the banditti to which his government gave rise, nor defend those who fell a prey to the fearfnl havoc they made on property and human life. After they had filled their cup. Heaven frowned upon them ; and those who escaped the war-club and javelin, disease swept away ; those who escaped both died in poverty, not only under the gnawings of hunger, but those of a guDiy conscience ; being deprived of that very property of which they had despoiled others ; while the bones of the majority lie bleached on many a barren ■^aste, addressing the living in solemn language, "He that taketh. the sword shall perish by the sword." The finger of God was so evident, that even the Griquas them- selves could not help fearing that their former cruelties com- mitted on the Bushmen would not go unpunished. These troubles did not subside till 1829, when the mission partially revived under the labours of Messrs. Wright and Hughes; and since 1831, when it received a new impulse, it has continued to increase and extend its influence around; Their efforts, as may be seen from the reports, have been blessed in no ordinary degree. Beside their own stated ser- vices, they employ six native teachers. Their congregations comprise Bechuanas, Griquas, Gorannas^ and Bushmen ; the first the most numerous, while the last are now, as may be gathered froni the chapter on th^ir origin, character, and state, few and feeble. About seven years ago this mission became increasingly usefol, from circumstances in themselves apparently adverse to ijs prosperity. Owing. tp, the draught and consequent failure of the fountains, nothing could be done in agriculture in the village. The people were thus dispersed, and obliged to lead a migratory life in quest of food. This state of things led to itinerating and the employment of native agency on 144 waterboer's government. a larger scale. The Divine blessing has rested conspicu- ously on these efforts, and especially on numbers of the Be- chuanas, who h!ad from the destructive attacks on their tribes in their own country retired to the banks of Vaal River, within the Griqua district. These were brought by a way they knew not. Many of them have been savingly converted to God, and are now able to read in their own language His wonderful works.* I have thought it proper to be a little particular in refer- ence to the origin and present state of the Griquas, who have been so signally preserved and blessed for forty years, and remain after so many conflicts a monument, while other stations like the one which gave birth to theirs, are left deso- late. Humanly speaking, Watfij:bflfirl&_g£Bie«w»ent is on a basis too firm to be moved by a foreign foe, that is,' so long as it supports by its influence the cause of God, and contin- ues the faithful ally of the Gape colony. It is not vidthout great reason, however, that many judicious persons depre- cate the effects of what they consider an unhallowed union, in the missionary's h olding am ong th e Griquas the offi ce of " CqnfidentjaJjI^elJi.to tl^j(Jo^^^ TKere may be apparent advantages arising from tEr'mieasure, in accordance with the sentiments of those who Bold up the benefit effected by missionary labours to be more of a polit- ical than a relig^ousnature, and who maintain thatlFri iar more "convenient for governm.ent than appointing distinct agents ; but the fact is, it has no warrant from Scripture, and the question is. What does experience say ? Let us * The following information has come to hand since the article on the Griqua mission was prepared for the press, and cannot fail to interest. Mr. Helmore having been appointed to Likhatlong, a station of Be- chuanas connected with the Griqua mission, 190 of their members were thus transferred to his care, and now form a, distinct church. In the early part of last year, Mosheshe, chief of the Basutos, sent messengers to the chief Waterboer, informing him that as his people were now favoured with missionaries in their own country, it was his particular wish that all the Basutos in those parts should return home. "Waterboer having at once made it known that all that chose to do so, were at liberty to depart with their property, after having resided under his protection for seventeen years, a party of that people, about 100 souls, lately re- moved, among whom were 33 church members. This measure cannot fail of being an important acquisition to the French missionaries, as nearly all of them were able to read in their own language. After these deductions, and including recent additions, the number of church mem- bers at Griqua Town is 520. The schools on the station have, under many discouraging circumstances, continued to prosper, and the Infant school under the care of Troy Vortuin, a native female of a respectable family, reflects great honour on her abilities and perseverance. MISSIONARIES GOVERNMENT AGENTS. 145 take South Africa for an example. The preceding state- ments demonstrate that the cause of Mr. Anderson's re- moval was his government agency ; and though his not hav- ing had a precedent is an apology, the principle and the consequences of that agency cannot but be deprecated. Mr. Brownlee, our missionary in Kafir-land, was the next who trod on that slippery path, and res igned the ^fEce o£ missionary agent ,to..gQvemmeat,-a^ incompsitiHe with" the position of a missionary heathen. Mr. Thompson, of the Kat River, followe'd him with still less success. His '^' po- litical functions intejjsred very niuch with his religious du- ties.'^ HeTnTormed the writer that it~hearly cost him his nie^ and he would by.no means advise missionaries to as- sume any thing like a diplomatic character among the peo- ple of their spiritual charge.* More than twenty years' experience among the aborigines beyond the boundary of the colony, has convinced the writer that the two offices ought not to be held by the same person. Among the Be- chuanas our Uves have been placed in imminent danger from the suspicions excited in their minds by Conrad Buys and others, that we were agents of government, or in some way or other connected with it. No missionary, however, can with any show of Scripture_or reasonj_ refuse his pacific counsel and advice, when those "among whom he labours require it, nor decline to become interpreter or translator to any foreign power, or to be the medium of hushing the din of war arising either from family interests or national claims ; nor is it inconsistent with his character to become a mediator or intercessor where Ufe is at stake, whether aris- ing from ignorance, despotism, or revengg. I once seized the right arm of an enraged chief of no little power, who grasped a weapon, which, but for this interference, wotild have been plunged into the breast of a victim, who had greviously offended. I did no vnrong, nor did the chief think so, for when the paroxysm was over he said to me, " I thank you, father." A missionary may do all this, and more than this, without endangering his character, and what is of infinitely more importance the character of the gospel he * The Rev. Stephen Kay, in his letter to Sir T. F. Buxton, on the Kafir-case makes the following remark, which being the result of long observatioA, is worthy of regard. After some very wholesome Iimts on the subjecf of agency, he writes— "I trust, therefore, that Government will never again think of committing the office of agency, amongst the Kafirs to a missionary; as it places missionaries in a position which miaht'by possibility, be construed into that of spies, and there would, in all probability, he an end put to their usefulness at once." 10 146 SIR A. stockenstkom's testimony. proclaims; but his entering into diplomatic engagements places himself as well as the great objeet. of his hfe in jeopardy. That raisa-oaati** do obtain an influence among the tribes beyond, without any nfljfiial inte rference, has been demon- strated along the whole line of ffie colonial boundary, from the Atlantic, to the Fish River on the east. Among other Astances, the following may be adduced as given by the honourable, now Sir A. Stockenstrom, in his evidence before the Aborigines Committee ; — " It strikes me that it is impossible to deny that the benefit thus con- ferred is incalculable. In 1833, 1 believe it was, that there was an inroad of a marauding horde of Corannas, Hottentots, and others, who were con- sidered outlaws and independent of the Griqua tribes. They slaughtered, indiscriminately, several families, and {Sundered to a great extent ; a strong expedition was sent against those people, but was unsuccessful. It was apparent to every man acquainted with th.e frontier, that if it had not been for the influence that the London missionaries had gained over the Griquas, we should have had the whole nation down upon us. It was only the state of feeling produced by that influence which prevented the Griquas from taking advantage of the exposed condition of the coun- try, and the panic then existing, to give vent to their old animosities against the colony, and overrun the: northern half of it. Had they been without that helm — that influence, I say, of these missionaries, we should have had a strong tribp instead of a gang of robbers to contend with. We had no force to arrest them if they had. Now that those people are in that state to enable us to treat with them, I attribute altogether to the do- mesticated state to which they have been brought by the labours, and the confidence which they have in the advice of the missionaries, whose in- terest it is to preach peace." Sir A. S. bears the same testimony of the benign and salutary results from the labours of the Wesleyan mission- aries. These effects, to which such honourable testimony is borne, we feel no hesitation in ascribing to the pure princi- ples of the Gospel, which, wherever planted, nurtured, and matured under his reign, who has said, " My kingdom is not of this world," will always produce them ; and through which, as the chief Waterboer has declared, "the Griquas ha.ve become a people, who were not a people." The course pursued by the Colonial Government in appointing an agent as they did, in the person of J. Melvill, Esq., terminated in a treaty made with the chief Waterboer, by which he became an ally. This latter very important measure was entered into under the auspices of Sir Benja- min D' Urban, then Governor, and who an addition to Wa- terboer's salary most liberally granted 50Z. per annum to promote education among the Griquas.. Well had it been TREATIES A WISE POLICY. 147 for the country, if this arrangement had heen made much earUer, for it would have enabled Waterboer to prevent much rapine and murder, which had devastated the country for seven or eight years previously, during which time he could not even defend his own place, fof want of suitable resources. Of this he was so sensible, that in the year 1830, on my way to Gape Town, he put into my hands a docu- ment expressing his desires on the subject, with an earnest request that I would use my influence for their accomjdish- mient ; this I did most cheerfully with Sir Lowry Cole, then Governor. It is a wise policy in Government, to render every facility to the advancement of knowledge and civihzation among the aborigines, and especially to such as have, like Water- boer, exhibited in legible characters the dehghtful results of missionary efforts, both in his conduct towards his own people, and the Colony to which he is allied ; and we cannot but assure ourselves, that the friendly system now acted upon by Government, towards the chiefs on the frontier, wiU not only benefit the aborigines, but the Colony itself, and throw a halo of glory around the British throne.* It is deeply to be regretted, that the fountain at Griqua Town has almost ceased to flow, which has compelled the inhabitants to resolve on removing to the banks of the Yel- low or Vaal River, where they hope to be able to lead out ♦ It has been said by one who ought to have a tolerably correct know- ledge of the state of the Northern frontiers, that all the chiefs in the country, with only one exception, " are heathens and marauders," This is a sweeping charge, and it would be an easy matter for the writer, who has not been an inattentive observer of the fluctuations of petty interests in the country for more than twenty years, to contradict it. He possesses ample matters of fact for a volume of reminiscences on this subject, and may, if he finds it necessary, resume his pen to give the history, and the characters, of both heathen and Christian chiefs and marauders. It is true, the missionaries, like the primitive church at Corinth, have not many noble, not many rich, of whom they can boast ; yet there are chiefs, and proiuising sons of chiefs, who have laid their weapons of war at the feet of the Prince pf Peace, and we have only to glance over our missionary records to be convinced of the transforming effects of the Gospel, even over chieftians, who, though strangers to the inward teachings of the Spirit of God, and notwithstanding the baneful example of some called Christians befure their eyes, instead of being " marauders," have made sacrifices to promote peace around them, and shown mercy to those by whom they were formerly plundered. Not to mention Cornelius Kok, the chief of Campbell, whom t^ie Bechuanas have been accustomed to recognise as one of their guardians, Adam Kok of Philippolis ; Mothibi, the chief of the Batlapis, and his sons, as also his brother Mahura;' Mosheshe, the chief of the Basuto, and others whose names might be mentioned, cannot, witholit a violation of truth, be designated marauders. 148 STATE AND PROSPECtS. a stream, so as to irrigate a considerable portion of the country ; and in furtherance of so noble a work, the " Friends" in England have contributed liberally, through J. Back- house, Esq. Should they succeed in this important move- ment, about which they are sanguine, their circumstances will be immensely improved, for their abode at Griqua Town has long been very trying in a temporal point of view. But for this, it is possible that the Griquas might have realized the expectations of many of the Society's con- stituents, in supporting their own missionaries, which their advanced state of civilization, and liberal support from Government, authorize them to anticipate ; and it is sin- cerely to be hoped that this will be the first mission beyond the Colony which will set the noble example, especially as, according to Mr. Wright, the " place possesses inexhaustible capabihties." CHAPTER XIY. We have now partially traversed the different portions of southern Africa, in which our missionaries have laboured with varied successes, among the Kafirs, Bushmen, Nama- quas, and Griquas, In our perambulations, our hearts have been alternately the seat of sorrow and of joy. We have mingled our sympathies with those who were called to bear the hea.t and the burden of the day. We have heard them lanienting that they had laboured in vain, and spent their strength for nought ; and we have seen them weeping over immortal souls, who, after having been brought within sight of the haven of eternal rest, despising the day of their visi- tation, have perished. We have united in our ascriptions of praise to the Author of all good with those who, though they went forth weeping and praying with painful solicitude, have been privileged to come again, bringing their sheaves with them. We have entered the kraal of the filthy and lazy Hottentot, and have witnessed the transforming influence in effecting a change in his character and state, which neither the might nor the policy of an empire could achieve. We have known beings of so low a grade-, that at one time it was A RETROSPECTIVE VIEW, 149 seriously questioned whether they belonged to the human family, but aroused by the voice of love, and drawn by the attractions of the Cross, we have seen them rising from the abyss of degradation, entering into the holy of holies to hold eommunion with their God, and then in communion with their fellow Christians we have heard them say, " Beloved, now are we the sons of God." We have known him whom we were wont to regard with fearful apprehension, as a lion in his lair roaring for his prey, and spreading devastation around, arrested, humbled, and subdued, without a sword or spear. At one time he was the scourge and the terror of the country ; but he became the advocate of peace, and the bond of union. We have heard the Kafir warrior tuning his hoarse voice, not. to celebrate the sanguinary deeds, and to rehearse the barbarous soliloquies of his ancestors, but in songs sweeter far than even the hymn of Sikeina, who was the first Christian Kafir poet. We have also seen the civil- izing efiects of the gospel on the wandering Coranna and Griqua, of whom it may be affirmed, that though they were without a country or a name, they are now numbered amongst the tribes ; and that though they were not a people, they have become a people. Leaving these scenes of deep interest, and which deserve to be depicted by an abler hand than mine, we now, in ac- cordance with the spirit of the missionaries' watchword, " onward," advance beyond these Uttle hills of Zion to wider fields of missionary enterprise. We now proceed to inquire into the results of spreading the knowledge of the word of God amongst a people distin- guished by many pecuharities in their character and circum- stances from most of those described. Unaccustomed to the control of other powers, and living at a great distance from the confines of civilized society, they were remarkable for their barbarous independence and national pride. Mission- ary eiforts in these districts are of comparatively recent ori- gin ; and though the results of those efibrts are such as to command lively gratitude as well as to encourage enlarged expectations, our course now brings us within the shadow of those rolling clouds of darkness, covering an immense extent * of territory, on which a .ray of heavenly light has never dawned. Nothing was known of the existence of the Bechuanas as a people, distinct in many respects from the Kafirs, beyond mere report, untU they were visited' by a colonist, with a party on a predatory expedition. This was at an early pe- 13* 150 MESSRS. EDWAUDS AND KOK. riod of the history of the Colony. The attack and robbery having been brought before the Colonial government, a con- siderable time elapsed before they were again visited by these white plunderers (as they described them) from the south. The next visit was from the marauder Bloom, a Dutch farmer. He was accompanied by a considerable num- ber of similar characters, who committed sad havoc on the herds and flock of the Bechuanas, butchering great numbers of the comparatively defenceless inhabitants. In the year 1801, Somerville and Truter, who visited the missionary sta- tion on the Orange River, for the purpose of obtaining cattle for the government by barter, were led, from the information there obtained, to visit the Batlapis and Batlaros, the two nearest tribes of the Bechuana nation, for the same object. This visit made a very favourable impression as to the cha- racter and disposition of the Bechuanas, on the minds of these gentlemen. A short time before this, two missionaries had taken up their residence on the banks of the Kuruman River, near which the Batlapis and others were then living under the chief or king Molehabangue, who appears, from universal testimony, to have been a superior man, distinguished as a statesman as vi'eU as a warrior. His kindness to strangers was also proverbial, a trait of character not always very con- spicuous among savages. It was under the reign of this personage that Messrs. Edwards and Kok settled in the Bechuana country, for the ostensible purposi3 of preaching the. gospel to the natives, but it does not appear that they were ever able to effect any thing among that people. When our missionaries, Evans and Hamilton, went to Lat- takoo, or Lithako, thirty miles north-east of the Kuruman River, in reference to whom Mothibi said to Mr. Campbell, " Send missionaries, and I will be a father to them," this king with his council directed them to the Kuruman River, there to take up their quarters, and carry on barter and trade as Kok and Edwards had formerly done. Though the latter remained several years in the country, they never ap- pear, from all I could learn of the elder natives, who were intimately acquainted with their proceedings, to have given themselves out as instructors of the people. A mission at' such a distance necessarily required considerable support, and this was not at that time afforded to them, so that they were compelled to be dependent on their flocks and herds, and barter to support themselves and families. This prac- tice may at first appear very plausible, but in most instances HR. KOK MURDERED. 151 it has proved detrimental to the interests of missions ; for the mind, always prone to earth, is imperceptibly led astray from its grand object by a lucrative auxiliary. On this rock these men appear to have struck, and both were wrecked. They lived on the Kuruman River, at a considerable dis- tance from each other, as they were never harmonious ; and mstead of being in the midst of the people, their residences were several miles from the town of Molehabangue. They visited the Colony and Cape Town when they had realised a sufficient quantity of ivory and cattie to be disposed of to advantage. Edwards even went for this purpose as far as the Bauangketsi, a powerful nation north of the Molapo River, and havigg amassed a handsome sum, and long for- saken his God, he left the country, retired to the Colony, purchased a farm and slaves, and is now, or was some years since, a hoary-headed infidel. I write what I know, having reasoned with him on the subject, when he treated my ar- guments with indignity and scorn. What is man when left to himselfl A different, though melancholy fate awaited Kok. He is reported to have been a devout man ; and that which occa- sioned his death does not necessarily imply a dereliction of duty. One morning, when going to his folds to survey his flocks, two of his men with guns waylaid him, and shot him rthg"feaem"pli6n"of the" woHdi the resurrectionortHe dead^«Bdr-iainmortality~beyoncl the grave, "was~to tell them whajrapye a 'r'edrto""be rniore 'JaBuToiis, ext ravagant, and lEicG- ciotS'HSSSnheir own vain stories about lionSj_hyenas,_and jackals. To tell t&m'lhTt"tEeie"wefe" articles of our faith, wbuld" extort an interjection of superlative surprise, as if they were too preposterous for the most foolish to believe. Our labours might well be compared to the attempts of a child to grasp the surface of a polished mirror, or those of a husbandman labouring to transform the surface of a granite rock into arable land, on which he might sow his seed. To gaiii_atteEtion was the first great object of the missionary ; anH this was not to be done by calm reasoning, or exciting in their minds a jealousy for the honour of their own religious rites and cerempnies, for these they did not possess. What they heard was all right provided they got a bit of tobacco, or some little equivalent for their time — a thing of no value to them — which they spent in hearing one talk. Some would even make a trade of telling the missionary that they prayed, by which means God directed them to their lost catde, at a few yards distance, after having been in search of them several days ; and that in the same way he had brought game within reach of their spears. Replies to questions as to what they thought of the Word of God, were very cheap ; and if they supposed that by such means they had obtained favour and respect, their success would be the subject of merriment in their own circles. Some individu- als, to my knowledge, who had carried on this deception in the early period of the mission, many years afterwards 15 170 EARLY PROFESSIONS NO CRITERION. boasted how expert they had been in thus gulling the miS' sionary. Although they had received much instruction, they ap- peared never for one moment to have reflected upori it, nor did they retain traces of it in their memories, which are generally very tenacious. Accordingly, most of those who at an early period made professions to please, died as they had Hved, in profound ignorance. Munameets, though an early friend of the mission, the travelling companion of Mr, Campbell, and one of the most sensible and intelligent men of the nation, than whom no one at the station had enjoyed equal privileges, made the following remark to the writer, in his usual affectionate way, not. long before his death — " Ra-Mary, your customs may be good enough for you, but I never see that they fill the stomach," putting his hand on his own ; " I would like to live with you, because you are kind, and could give me medicine when I am sick. Though I am the uncle of Mothibi, I am the dog of the chief, and must gather up the crumbs (gorge at festivals). I am one of the elders of the people, and though I am still a youth (seventy years!) my thoughts and perceptions are neither so swift nor acute as they were. Perhaps you may be able to make the children remember your mekhua (customs)." They could not see that there was any thing in our cus- toms more agreeable to flesh and blood than in their own, but would, at the same time, admit that we were a wiser and a superior race of beings to themselves. For this su- periority some of their wise heads would try to account, but this they'could only do on the ground of our own statements, that a Great Being made man. A wily rain-maker, who was the oracle of the village in ■which he dwelt, once remarked after hearing me enlarge on the subject of creation, " If you verily believe that that Be- ing created all men, then, according to reason, you must also beheve that in making white people he has improved on his work ; He tried his hand on Bushmen first, and he did not like them, because they were so ugly, and their language hke that of the frogs. He then tried his hand on the Hot- tentots, but these did not please him either. He then exer- cised his power and skill and made the Bechuanas, which was a great improvement ; and at last he made the white peo- ple ; therefore," exulting with an air of triumph at the dis- covery; " the white people are so much wiser than we are, in making walking-houses (wagons), teaching the oxen to draw them over hiU and dale, and instructing them also to plough BECHTJANA GOVERNMENT. 171 tke gardens instead of making their Mdves do it, like the Beehuanas." His discovery tecpived the applause of the people, while the poor missionary's arguments, drawn from the source of Divine truth, were thrown into the shade. They were alwajs so averse to reasoning on any suWects of this_ nature) thaOhe missionary lelt it quite a treat~lo meet with an individual who would enter into a discussion, even though with derision and scorn. With all their concessions, they would, with little cere- mony, pronounce our customs clumsy, awkwajd, and trou- blesome. They could not account for our putting our legs, feet, and arms into bags, and using buttons for the purpose of fastening bandages round our bodies, instead of suspend- ing them as ornaments from the neck or hair of the head. Washing the body, instead of lubricating it with grease and red ochre, was a disgusting custom, and cleanliness about our food, house, and bedding, contributed to their amuse- ment in no small degree. A native, who was engaged roasting a piece of fat zebra flesh for me on the coals, wag told that he had better turn it with a stick, or fork, instead of his hands, which he invariably rubbed on his dirty body for the sake of the precious fat. This suggestion made him and his companions laugh extravagantly, and they were wont to repeat it as an interesting joke wherever they came. The government of the people partakes both of the mon- archical and patriarchal, comparatively mUd in its charac- ter. Each tribe has its chief or Hng, who commonly resides in the largest tovim, and is held sacred from his he- reditary right to that office. A tribe generally includes a number of towns or villages, each having its distinct head, under whom there are a number of subordinate chiefs. These constitute the aristocracy of the nation, and aU ac- knowledge the supremacy of the principal one. His power, though very grea^ and jn some instances despotic, is never- theless controlled by the minor chiefs, who in their pichos or pitshos, their parliament, or public meetings, use the great- est plainness of speech in exposing virhat they consider cul- pable or lax in his government. An able speaker wiU. sometimes turn the scale even against the king, if we may call him such. I have heard him inveighed against for making women his senators and his wife prime minister, while the audience were requested to look at his body, and see if he were not getting too corpulent ; a sure indication that his mind was Uttle exercised ui anxieties about tbe welfare of his people. 172 NATIONAL CUSTOMS. He generally opens the business of the day with a short speech, reserving his eloquence and wisdom to the close of the meeting, when he analyses the speeches that have been delivered, and never forgets to lash in the most furious lan- guage those who. have exposed his faults, and who, as he wotdd express it, have walked over his body, placing their feet upon his neck. This is all taken in good part, and the exhausted chieftain is heartily cheered when the nieeting dissolves. These assemblies keep up a tolerable equilibrium of power between the chiefs and their king, but they are only convened when differences between tribes have to be ad- justed, when a predatory expedition is to be undertaken, or when the removal of a tribe is contemplated; though occa- sionally matters of less moment are introduced. My object here is not to give a description of the manners and customs of the Bechuanas, which would require a vol- ume, while it would be neither very instructive nor very edi- fying. They will, moreover, occasionally be referred to as they stand connected with circumstances narrated in the course of the work. I have briefly glanced at thg:_natipnal council as the stronghold or shield of the native customs, in which speakers have, in a masterly style, inveighed against any aggression on their ancient ceremonies, threatening con- fiscation and death to those who would arraign the wisdom of their forefathers. This was their form, while the responses of nobles were the pulse of the nation. But private thefts, murder, and a host of other crimes passed unnoticed in these assemblies, and were left to the avenger. Of their customs they are as tenacious as the Hindoo could be of his caste, that dre adful barr ier to evangelization in the East Indies. Their y"outh, for iiiiTahce, wouldlorJeit any thing rather than go ijhcircumcised.j This national cere- mony is performed from tlTe'age of eight to fourteen, and even to manhood, though the children born previous to their parents being initiated cannot be heirs to regal power. There is much feasting and dancing on the occasion, and every heart is elated at these festivities. The females have also their boyali at the same age, in which they are under the tuition of matrons, and initiated into all the duties of wives, in which it merits notice, that passive obedience is especially inculcated. After these tedious ceremonies are over, the youth appears lubricated, assuming the character, and wearing the dress of a man, while he is considered able to bear the shield and wield the javelin. Th€ girls also, when thfey have gone tlxe BARRIERS TO THE GOSPEL. 173 round of weeks, drilling, dancing, singing, and ' listening to the precepts of the grave old women, have a piece of iron rather hot put into their hands, which they must hold fast for a time, though piunful, to show that their hands are hard and strong for lahour. They are then anointed, and, having put on the usual female dress, the lower part of their hair is shaven off, and the upper part profusely bedaubed with a paste of butter and sebilo, black shining ochre. Raised thus from comparative infancy to what they consider wontan- hood, they view themselves with as much complacency as if they were enrobed in the attire of the daughter of an east- em potentate. They have reached nearly to a climax in their life, for they expect soon to be married, and to be a mother they consider the chief end of a woman's existence. 'Tbese ceremonies were prodigious barriers to the Gospe l, l^ygamy was another obstacle, and the Bechuanas, jealous ofaiiyTiiminntion in their self-indulgence, by being deprived of the services of their wives, looked with an extremely sus- picious eye on any innovation on this ancient custom. While going to war, hunting, watching the cattle, milking the cows, and preparing their fursand skins for mantles, was the work of the men, the women had by far the heavier task of agri- culture, building the houses,- fencing, bringing firewood, and heavier than all, nature's charge, the rearing of a family. The greater part of the year they are constantly employed ; and during the Season of picking and sowing dieir gardens, their task is galling, living on a coarse, scanty fare, and fre- quently having a babe fastened to their backs, while thus cultivating the ground. The men, for obvious reasons, found it convenient to have a number of such vassals, rather than only one, while the w oman would be perfectly ama zed at one's ignorance, were she"'to^beJpldjlmt_she_ would-be muchjiappierin a singTe state, or_ widowhqqdjthan being the mere concubine and drudge of a hau^ty^msBand, who spent the greater part oi his meTrTIounging m the shade, while she was compelled, for his comfort as well as her own, to labour under the rays of an almost vertical sun, in a hot and withering chmate. Their houses, which require considerable jjggenuity as well as hard labour, are entirely the work of the women, who are extremely thankful to carry home even the heavier timbers, if their husbands wUl take their axes and fell them in the thicket, which may be many miles distant. The centre of the conical roof will, in many houses, be eighteen feet high, and it requires no little scrambling, in the absence of lad- 15* 17 i LABOURS OP THE WOMEN. ders, for females to climb such a height, tut the men pass and repass, and look on with the most perfect indifference, ■while it never enters their heads that their wife, their daugh- ter, or their mother, may fall and break a leg or neck. These houses, though temporary, and requiring great labour to keep them constantly in repair, are nevertheless very well adapted to the climate. They admit httle light, which is not desirable in a hot country, and among millions of house- flies ; but during the winter season they are uncomfortably airy and cold. While standing near the wife of one of the grandees, who, with some female companions was building a house, and making preparations to scramble by means of a branch on to the roof, I remarked that they ought to get their husbands to do that part of the work. This set them all into a roar of laughter, Mahuto, the queen, and several of the men drawing near to ascertain the cause of the merriment, the wives repeated my strange, and, to them, ludicrous proposal, when another peal of mirth ensued. Mahuto, who was a sensible and shrewd woman, stated that the plan, though hopeless, was a good one, as she often thought our custom was much better than theirs. It was reasonable that woman should attend to household affairs, and the hghter parts of labour, while man, wont to boast of his superior strength, should employ his energy in more laborious occupations ; adding, she wished I would give their husbands medicine to make them do the work. This remark was made rather in a way of joke. Poor woman, she little knew then that there was one whose omnipotent voice has declared,--," I will put my Spirit into them, and create new hearts within them ;" but now blessed be His holy name, she, and hundreds more, have been publicly baptized into the faith of the Gospel of the Son of God. Again, the habits of the people were such as to warn us that the vision would tarry, and that there, as well as in the strongholds of idolatry,, it was to be, " not by might nor by power, but by my Spirit, saith the Lord." A traveller, such as Lichtenstein, whose stay was very short among the Be- diuanas, was ngt likely to form an adequate judgment of their real character. They are, it is true, hke the Kafirs, a superior race, have a dignity and openness, the natural re- sults of independence ; and to him must have presented a striking contrast to the slaves of the colony, whence he had come : but that they manifest the utmost " contempt of all chicane or deceit," which he urges as a proof " of innate BEOHUANA CHARACTER. 175 rectitude, and consciousness of natural strength," is not cor- rect ; and had he dwelt among them, arid sat with them in their public and private councils, lived in their dwellings, accompanied them on their journeys, and mingled with them on the field of battle, as the writer has done, he would not have attempted to revive the fabled delights and bliss of ig- norance, reported to exist in the abodes of heathenism. When we attempted to convince them of their state as sinners, they would boldly affirm, with full belief in their in- nate rectitude, that thpre was not a sinner in the tribe, re- ferring us to other nations whom they dreaded, or with whom they were at war ; and especially the poor despised Bush- men. That they are less ferocious than some tribe.spfwe ad- mit ; but this is saying little in commendation of those who could with impunity rob, murder, lie, and exchange wives. No matter how disgraceful the action might be, or what de- ceit, prevarication, dupKcity, and oaths, were required to sup- port it ; success made them perfectly happy in a practice in which most were adepts. When they are styled savages, the appellation should be imderstood in a restrictive sense, especially when compared with the Zoolu tribes to the east, who, as we shall yet have occasion to show, though they are not cannibals, would, in fiercest barbarity, vie with any of the inhabitants of the is- lands of the Pacific. The Bechuana character is frank and sociable, which, however, does nof "appear to arise from a benevolence of disposition, so much as from a degree of eti- quette and habits, arising from relationship and locality. It has sometirnes perfectly astounded the writer to see indivi- duals who he had supposed were amiable and humane, when brought into certain positions, would, as if in their native element, wallowin crimes, which he expected they would naturally shudder to perpetrate. Having had long inter- course with many tribes, he feels persuaded that what he has stated will be found a tolerably correct estimate of the Bechuana character. But although they are revengeful to the last degree, if an ofiender propitiate the injured party by a gift, at the same time confessing his eiTor, or, as is com- mon, put the blame on his heart, the most perfect unanimity and cordiality succeeds. Mr. Thompson in his travels correctly remarks, that, "like most barbarians, their political wisdom consists in du- plicity and petty cunning ; and their ordinary wars were inerely predatory Incursions upon their weaker neighbours for the purpose of carrying off cattle, with as little exposure 176 DirricuLTiEs on enteiunq on a mission. as possible of their own lives. Their expeditions against the Bushmen were peculiarly vindictive, and conducted with all the insidiousness and murderous ferocity, without the he- roic intrepidity of American or New Zealand savages :" ex- amples of this will occur hereafter. AU these characteris- tics are only what the records of Divine truth authorize us to expect from those who walk according to the prince of the power of the air. The inspired description given in Rom. iij. 10 — 18, is the real transcript of the condition of a people who have no fear of God before their eyes. Both ancient and modern missionaries have found it so ; and whoever goes topreach the unsearchable riches of Chiist among the heath^ goes on a warfare which requires all prayer and supplication, to_keep his ar mour brig ht, and in active opera- tion, to wrestle and struggle, and toil, to puUing down the strong-holds of Satan, whether in Africa, India, or the islands of the Pacific. CHAPTER XVI. When a mission is commenced among a harbajrous people, it is a novelty ; every thing about the stranger is new. His person, dress, and implements excite their surprise. His manners are the subject of conversation ; his temporary abode continues to be visited by persons from a distance, to see the show ; but instead of paying for their entertainment, and the annoyance their presence and cravings inflict on all occasions, they think they have a right to beg, if not to steal ; that they may have some tangible proof that they have seen the stranger, and experienced his kindness. His resources must soon fail, and distance and poverty prevent him from replenishing his exhausted stores. He finds that he is only commencing his hardships, while he hears their hosannas changed to " away with him, away with him !" This re- verse assumes a more serious aspect, when they perceive what is the real object of the missionary, and anticipate the probable result of the doctrines taught. The naturd_man. in the grosser form of a savage, broods over the terrible ATHEISM OP THE KAPUIS. 177 havoc the new system will make with his darling pleasures ; and violently rebels at the axe being laid at the root of his sensual enjoyments, without whio.h life would be a grievous burden to him. This is a period in which the faith and the patience of the missionary are put to the test ; and^surely no where more so than among a lawless rabble, s^ The next barrier to be noticed, Before concluding the sub- ject, is, the eiuJre" absence of theological ideas, or religion, which has already been briefly glanced at. Dr. Vander- kemp, in his account of the Kafirs, makes the following re- mark : " If by rehgion we mean r everence for Go d, or the external action by which that reverence is expressed, I never could perceive that they had any religion, nor any idea of the existence of a God. I am speaking nationally, for there are many individuals who have some notion of His exist- ence, which they have received from adjacent nations. A decisive proof of the truth of what I here say with respect to the national atheism of the Kafirs, is, that they have no word in their language to express the idea of the Deity ; the individuals just mentioned, calling hin^'Thikp^-'which is a corruption of the name by which God is""c3ed in the lan- guage of the Hottentots, literally signifying, one that induces pain." To the above description given by Dr. V., I may add, that though I am aware Uhlaiiga is also used by the Kafirs to denote a Supreme Being, from'Vhat I know of the habits of the interior tribes, I perfectly agree with the Rev. S. Kay, in his account of the Amakosa genealogy, that Uhlanga or Thlanga is the name of the oldest of their kings, by whom they swore in former times ; a custom which obtains univer- sally in the interior. " It seems to me therefore," says the late Mr. Pringle, in his African Sketches, " doubtful, whether the god Uhlanga be not merely a deified chiaf or hero, hke the Thdr and Woden of our Teutonic ancestors ;" and the same writer adds, " The Hottentot word Uti'ko,is nowusedby all the frontier (Kafir) tribes, to denote the Christian's God." These remarks will equally apply to the Hottei>tots and Namaquas, who are one people. While , hving among the latter, I made many inquiries respecting the name they had to denote the Divine Being, but could not come to any satis- factory conclusion on the subject, though I had the aJfeistanee of Africaner in my researches. The name they use is Tsui'kuap, or, as some tribes pronounce it, Uti'kuap : the Uti'ko of the Hottentots is articulated with the cKck or cluck peculiar to that language. 178 THE PKAYING MAMTIS. In my journey to the baek parts of Great Namaqna-land, I met witib an aged sorcerer, or doctor, who stated that he had always understood that Tsui'kuap was a notable war- rior, of great physical strength; that, in a desperate struggle with another chieftain, he received a wound m the knee, but having vanquished his enemy, his name was lost in the mighty combat, which rendered the nation independent ; for no one could conquer the Tsui'kuap (wounded knee.) When I referred to the import of the word, one who inflicts pain, or a sore knee, manifesting my surprise that they should give such a name to the Creator and Benefactor, he replied in a way that induced a belief that he applied the term to what we should call the devil, or to death itself; adding that he thought " death, or the power calusing death, was very sore indeed." To him, as to many others, this XsuJitiap^^asLan object neither of_rey£rencenorjove. During tremendous thuhder-'storms, which pre^vSTuTthat chmate, and which it might be supposed would speak to the mind of man with an awful voice, I have known the natives of Namaqua-land shoot their poisoned arrows at the Ughtning, in order to arrest the destructive fluid.* May not the Tsui'kuap of these people be like the Thlanga of the Kafirs, an ancient hero ; or represent some power, which they superstitiously dread, from its causing death or pain ? The praying Mantfs," as'it is called, from the efect position and motion it assumes when alarmed, which is said to have been worshipped by the Hot- tentots, has no homage paid to it in Namaqua-land : at least Africaner's people knew iipthing of it. Dr. Sparrman, who had better opportunities of ascertain- ing the fact than any one else, remarks, that so far from wor- shipping this genus of i nsect s, they have more than once caught several for him, and assisted him in sticking pins through therH. " There is, however," he adds, " a diminu- tive species of insects, which some think it would be a crime, as well as dangerous, to harm ; but this we have no more reason to look upon as any kind of rehgious worship, than we have to consider in the same light a certain superstitious notion prevalent among many of the more simple people in our own country, (Sweden,) who imagine that their sins will be forgiven them if they set a cock-chafer on its feet, that has haj[)pened to faU on its back. This will equally apply to * I knew a man who, though warned by myself and others of this dar- ing practice, persisted, and was struck dead, by the lightning. I have also heard of Bushmen throwing old shoes at it, or any thing they may happen to lay hold of. THE MOEIMO OP THE BECHUANAS. 179 the lafojjird and caterp iller, which children in England were w'bnt to be afraid of injuring lest it should rain, though it was not an object of religious veneration. Some travellers have made a reference to the moon, as an object of worship by the Africans, because they dance in her light ; but this is no proof that they worship her, any more than a countryman, in bur own father-land, who prefers a moonlight night to a dark one to perforin a journey. To those who have not been in warm cUmates, no idea can he formed how delight- ful the cool and silver moonbeams are. No wonder, then, that the natives, after sleeping soundly during the heat of the (^y, employ that refreshing season in the dance and song. The moonlight does not only tranquilize but exhilar- ates, while her bright horns are to them what lamps and chandeliers are to bur splendid asseriiblies at home. It is impossible for any but an eye-witness to conceive of the dis-' mal darkness which pervades a native village where neither lamp nor candle was ever thought of. AmoUg the Bechuana tribes, the name adopted by the missionaries is ^2^^mgJ This has the advantage of the names used by theKafirs and Hottentots, being more defi- nite, as its derivation at once determines its meaning. Mo is a personal prefix, and rimo is from gorimo ' above.' From the same root legorimo, ' heaven,' and its plural magorimo, are derived. The genius of the Sechuana language warrants us to expect a correspondence between the name and the thing designated ; but in this instance the order is reversed. Morimo, to those who know any .thing about it, had been represented by rain-makers and sorcerers as a malevolent selo, or thing, which the nations in the north described as existing in a hole, and which, like the fairies in the High- lands of Scotland, sometimes came out and inflicted diseases *on men and cattle, and even caused death. This Morimo served the purpose of a bugbear, by which the ram'-niakeT mi ght consfa ain the chiefs to yield to his suggesti6rts,~wKen he wished for a slaUghter-ox, without which he pretended he could not make rainl _Mbrimd did n6t theti convey to the mind of those who hSfd i t the idea, of God;, nor did Jjarimd, although it WaT an answer to the question ' where do riien go when they die V signify heaven. According to one rule of forming the plural of personal nouns beginning with mo, Barimo would only be the plural of Moriiho ; as Monona, ' a man ;'.Bd- nona, ' men.' But the word is never used in this form ; nor did it convey to the BecHuana mind the idea of a person or 180 NOTION OF man's ORIGDI. persons but of a state or disease, or what superstition would style being bewitched. If a person were talking foolishly, or wandering in his intellect, were deHrious, or in a fit, they would call him Barimo ; which, among some tribes, is tanta- mount to liriti, shades or manes of the dead. ' Going to Barimo' did not convey the idea that they were gone to any particular state of permanent existence ; for pian's immor- tality was never heard of among that people » but, simply, that they died. They could not describe .who or wnat Morimo was, except something cunning or malicious ; and some who had a pmpose to serve, ascribed to him power, but it was such as a Bushman doctor or quack coulJ grunt out of the bowels or afHicted part of the human body. They never, however, disputed the propriety of our using the noun Morimo for the great Object of our worship, as some of them admitted that their forefathers might have known more about him than thei/ did. They never apphed the name to a human being, except in a way of ridicule, or in adu- lation to those who taught his greatness, wisdom, and power. As to the eternity of this existence, they appear never to have exercised one thought. Morimo is never called man. As the pronouns agree with the noun, those which Morimo governs cannot, without the greatest violence to the lan- guage, be applied to Mogorimo, ' a heavenly one,' which refers to a human being. This power is, in the mouth of a rain-maker, what a disease would be in the lips of a quack, just as strong or weak as he is pleased to call it. I never once heard that Morimo did good, or was supposed capable of doing so. More modern in- quiries among the natives might lead to the supposition that he is as powerful to do good as he is to do evil ; and that he has as great an inclination for the one as for the) other. It will, however, be found that this view of his attri- butes is the result of twenty-five years' missionary labour ; the influences of which, in that as well as in other respects, extend hundreds of miles beyond the immediate sphere of the missionary. It is highly probable, however, that, as we proceed farther into the interior, we shall find the natives possessing more correct views on these subjects. According to native testimony, Morimo, as well as man, with all the difierent species of animals, came out of a cave or hole in the Bakone country, to the north, where, say they, their footmarks are stUl to be seen in the indurated rock, which was at that time sand. In one of Mr. Hamilton's early journals, he records that a native had informed him A WOMAN SEES MOEIMO. 181 that the footmarks of Morimo were distinguished hy being without toes. Once I heard a man of influence telling his story on the subject. I of course could not say that I believed the wondrous tale, but very mildly hinted that he might be misinformed; on which he became indignant, and swore by his ancestors and his king, that he had visited the spot, and paid a tax to see the wonder ; and that, conse- quently his testiniony was indubitable. I very soon cooled his rage, by telling him, that as I should ^lely one day visit those regions, I should certainly think myself very fortunate if I could get him as a guide to that wonderful source of animated nature. SmUing, he said, " Ha, and I shall show you the footsteps of the very first man." This is the sum- total of_JheknjowLedge_whi^^ tide origin of vyhat they" call~Morimo, prior to the period when they were visited by missionaries. Thus their foolish heart s are dar kene d; and verily this is a darkness wKich mSybe felt. Such a people are living in what Job calls " a land of darkness and the shadow of death," spiritually buried, and without knowledge, life, or light When the rain-maker wanted something to do, he woullj pretend to work, or rather find work; for those who woidd chide him vyith having a cloudless slty instead of rain. To gain time was his grand study ; and he was ingenious in inventing causes for the drought. I remember the wife of a poor man who returned from the hiUs with a bundle of firewood, bringing wondrous tidings that she had seen Morimo. This moment was eagerly seized by that arch official, and turned to account. He was an adept in the study of human nature, and knew that he was tolerably safe if he could keep the ladies employed; for he had heard murmurings in the towns. He delivered his mandate, and thousands of women from the towns and villages followed their oracle to the side of a neighbouring hiU, where all began td work ; and though maiiy had empty stomachs, an extensive garden was cleared and cultivated for Morimo. Happy the poor woman who thus, Without being a ventrilo- quist or Pythoness, had enabled the rain-maker to fall on so lucky a stratagem. She fared well, whoever fasted; and though the heavens continued as brass, and the earth as iron, she became, by the gifts of rich and poor, a spectacle of obesity, and soon died. This may account for the town people knowing something about the name Mofimo, where the inhabitants of many villages and hamlets, being without rain-makers, are in perfect ignorance. 16 182 rain-maker's SAGACiiy. Even the rain-maker when asked by the missionary why he could thus honour the little malicious thing which they called Morimo, that only came out of a hole to inflict pain taking advantage of our Christian views as to the meaning of the word, would promptly reply, " Do not you say Morimo is the govemor of the heavens, and that he only can make rain? why then should we not honour him?" This showed his skill in the appropriation of our principles to serve his own purposes. He also exhibited considerable cunning in this transfer ; foi^ should rain not come at his call, he could bring in the Morimo of the teachers for some part, if not the whole, of the blame. Thus, when hail injured their crops, or rain fell in the cold and unseasonable part of the year, they would use the vilest epithets, and curse both the mis- sionaries and their Morimo. When we assured them that God was in the heavens, and that He did whatever He pleased, the y blamed us for giving Him a high position b eyon d th eirrea ch ; for they viewed their Morimo as a noxioui~reptile. " Would that I could catch it, I would transfix it with my spear," exclaimed S., a chief, whosfe judgment on other subjects would command attention. As the science of rain-making, and the character of one of whom it might have been said he had got a patent, will be described in a following chapter, I shall confine myself in this to repl5ring to many questions which have been put to me in this country, as to the extent of the knowledge of di- vine things among the natives of South Africa. I am aware that the popular opinion is, that " man is a religious crea- ture ;" that " wherever he is to be found, there also are to be traced the impressions and even convictions of the exist- ence of a God." It is also commonly believed, that wher- ever man is found scattered over the wide spread surface of earth's domain, the knowledge of a " vicarious offering," or sacrifice, by way of atonement, has retained its seat in the human mind. Such were my own views when I left my native land ; and entertaining such views, I persuaded my- self, or rather tried to persuade myself, that I could discover rays of natu^hght ,_innate ideas of a. T)\vmp. Rsing, in the most untutorETt'^avage " — that I could never be at any loss to make appeals to something analogous to our own faith in the religious notions even of those among whom not a ves- tige of temple, altar, image, idol, or shrine, was to be found. When I was unsuccessful, I attributed it to my ignorance of the language, or the paucity of competent interpreters. So great was the force of early prejudices, that it was a long DEPLORABLE IGNORANCE. 183 time before I could be induced to embrace what I once con- sidered %,n erroneous view of the subject. Living among a people who were not in the habit of metaphysical disquisi- tions, which so often bewilder the understanding, I had only to draw conclusions from facts, which, according to the pro- verb, are " stubborn things," though euen these sometimes fail to convince. Haying asked the opinion of Mr. Camp- bell, as we were walking together, upon the views of a na- tive Christian from Namaqua-land, with whom we had been conversing on this subject, and who had been giving us an ample and descriptive account of his former ideas, Mr. C. remarked, in his usual pithy style, " Ah. sir, the people ^ in E ngland weuld not beheve th at men coulcl become li ke pigs 7 eatmg acorns under the tree, without being capable of look- ing up to see from whence they came. People who have had the Christian lullaby sung over their cradles, and sipped the knowledge of divine things with their mother's imlk, think all men must see as they do." One of the most convincing proofs that the minds of the people are covered by the profoundest darkness, is, that af- ter the missionary has endeavoured for hours to impart to them a knowledge of the Divine Being, they not unfre- quently address to him the question, "What is it you wish to tell me 1" And if any thing were wanting to confirm this conviction, surely this fact wiU be sufficient, that even where he has succeeded in conveying to the vacant mind of the savage, ideas which he considers as paramount to all others, he is told that, certainly these fables are very won- derful, but not more so than their own. Inquiring one day of a group of natives whom I had been addressing, if any of them had previously known that Great Being which had been described to them ; among the whole party I found only one old woman, who said that she re- membered hearing the name' Morimo when she was a child, but was not told what the thing was. Indeed, even in tovrtis, the general reply on that subject is, that these are things about which the old people can speak ; but as they are not in the habit of instructing the rising generation on such topics, it is easy to see how even these vague notions become extinct altogether, as they have done in many parts of the country. Nor is it surprising that a chief, after Hs- tening attentively to me while he stood leaning on his spear, should utter an exclamation of amazement, that a man whom he accounted wise, should vend such fables for truths. Calling about thirty of his men, who stood near him, to ap- 184 TESTIMONY OP A CONVERT. proach, he addressed them, pointing to me, " There is Ra- Mary, (Father of Mary,) who tells me, that the heavens •were made, the earth also, by a beginner, vv^hom he calls Mo- rimo. Have you ever heard any thing to be compared with this ? He says that the sun rises and sets by the power of Morimo ; as also that Morimo causes winter to follow sum- mer, the winds to blow, the rain to fall, the grass to grow, and the trees to bud;" and casting his arm above and around him, added, " God works in every thing you see or hear! Did ever you hear such words?" Seeing them ready to burst into laughter, he said, " Wait, I shall tell you more ; Ra-Mary tells me that we have spirits in us, which will never die ; and that our bodies, though dead and buried, will rise and hve again. Open your ears to-day ; did you ever hear litlamane (fables) like these ?" This was fol- lowed by a burst of deafening laughter, and on its partially subsiding, the chief man begged me to say no more on such trifles, lest the people should think me mad ! "* , But it is to the testimony of such as have been brought out of darkne ss into the marvellous light of the Gospel, that we must look for decisive evidence on this point. The fol- lowing is one example out of many which could be given. The question being put to one whose memory was tenacious as his judgment was enlightened, " How did, y ou feel in your natural state, befo re hearing the Gospe l? How cUd'youfeel upon retu'ing ffoni private as well as pubUc crimes, and lay- ing your head on the silent pillow 1 Were there no fears in your breast, no spectres before your eyes, no conscience ac- cusing you of having done wrong ? No palpitations, no dread of futurity?" " No," said he. " How could we feel, or how could we fear ? We had no idea that an unseen eye sg.w us, or that an unseen" ear heard us. What could we know beyond ourselves, or of another world, before life and immortality were brought to us by the word of God." This declaration was followed by a flood of tears, while he added, " You found us beastf? a,rf(\ j^nt. mpn " CHAPTER XVII. The preceding chapter contains facts from which import- ant deductions may be drawn ; and the writer has involun- tarily been led to inquire, Are we compelled to enter the gloomy recesses of heathenism ? If we look at home — a land of light — shall we not find individuals whose ignorance would equal that either of Hottentot or Bechuana ? Have not our noble band of home missionaries brought to light instances of the grossest darkness ? How many are there who have resisted the force of every argument on the sub- ject, and even laughed to scorn every article in our creed, and have died martjrrs to atheism ! Let us go to the asylums for the deaf and dTimb, and we shall find there persons having eyes to see and gaze on the infinitude of wonders in creation, and possessing minds capable of reasoning from efiect to cause, who, previous to their being instructed, were perfectly ignorant of a Divine Being. While then we have these facts before us, we feel compelled to differ in opinion from those who would have us believe, that the volume of Nature " affords the primary and entire proof of God's existence;" and "to vindicate his claim to be, he leaves to the heavens which declare his glory, to the firmament which showeth his handywork, to the days which utter knowledge, and the nights which proclaim wisdom." The preceding examples exhibit to our view sentient beings, whose minds, notwithstanding the indications of Divine wisdom, power, and goodness in creation, are unconscious of any existence beyond what they see and feel. This demonstrates that aU the knowledge of Divine things existing in every nation, from the refined Greek down a thousand generations, through the numberless shades of polytheism to the rude barbarian, is to be traced to Divine Revelation, whether written or traditional, and not to innate or intuitive ideas. This view of the subject we shall find, on more minute inquiry, in per- fect accordance with the declarations contained in the inspired volume. For " it is He that teacheth man know- ledge. I am the Lord that maketh all things, that stretch- eth forth the heavens alone, that spreadeth abroad the 16* 186 THE INVISIBLE THINGS OF GOD. heavens by myself." These are the declarations of the great " I AM ;" and without such a revelation, the world by wisdom could never have found out God. It is recorded by some author, that there were two periods of the world in which the knowledge of God was universal. This was at the creation, and during the days of Noah, after the flood. At the former period the revelation must have been made known by God himself; and at the latter by the preacher of righteousness in his own family. Keeping this in mind, there is no difHculty in understanding the following declara- tion of the Apostle. " For the invisible things of Him (His eternal power and Godhead) revealed or made known at the creation of the world, are clearly seen, being understood by the things that are made, even his eternal power and godhead."* That the stupendous earth and heavens, and the endless variety of order, change, and the dazzling beauty and grandeur of every thing touched by the finger of Jehovah, do testify with a voice, loud as the thunder's roar, clear as the noon-tide beam, there can be no question ; but surely not by uttering speech to a previously uninformed mind, and conveying the primary idea of the existence of God. This, in my humble opinion, is not what the Apostle intended to convey, but simply that God originally imparted the knowledge of his own being to man, and that tradition has circulated the report through the nations of the earth, which has undergone, by satanic influence on the minds of fallen creatures, all those modifications presented to us in the pantheon, or in the minds of savages. The Scriptures, so far from teaching us that we may infer the being of a God from the works of creation, assert that our knowledge of the visible universe, as the production of God's creative power, is derived, not from the deductions of reason, but from a behef of the Divine testimony revealing ♦ Romans i. 20: — " Par (Xai, nam, siquidem, forasmuch as) the invisi- ble things of Mm, his eternal power and godhead, as afterwards explained, from not If, but diru, ever since, the crecdion of the world, when they were fully communicated, are dearly seen, because after a declaration of his nature and existence, the Divine a,ttributes are plainly evinced, being un- derstood vaificva, explained to the understanding, by the things that are made, iroifjfioiri, the works of God, or things which he had done, not only of creation but of providence, in the deluge, in the wonderful pre- servation of the church, and destruction of his enemies, in his many ap- pearances, miracles, and interpositions with mankind, which, through all ages, had been related to them, and were a sensible demonstration of omniscience, omnipotence, invisibility, and immateriality, even his eternal power amd godhead, which alone could effect such Wonderful things," — EUis on Uim/ae Things. PRESIDENT EDWARDS'S ARGUMENT. 187 the fact ; " Through faith we understand that the worlds were made by the word of God, so that things which are seen were not made of things which do appear."* Such as advocate the dignity of human reason may spin a fine theory, but let them go to the hut or the den of the sunburnt Afri- can, and ask if any such a system has been spun by these children of nature. It is easy to detect the borrowed plumes with which the heathen moralists bedecked their bright ef- fusions. Philosophers and poets find no difficulty in follow- ing nature to nature's God, when they have revelation to lead the way, but let them point out to us nations who have found the Alrnighty without other aids than their own re- sources. It is to this that TertuUian refers, when he asks them, " Which of your poets, which of your sophisters, have not drunk from the fountains of the prophets ?" and thus, as Dr. EUis expresses it, " their noblest flights took wing from the gospel." Many heathen philosophers who possessed ad- vantages vastly superior to any of Africa's sons, instead of inferring from works of creation, the existence of a Supreme Being, generally maintained that the matter, and some even that lie form of the world itself was eternal, and others again substituted p^rts of the visible universe for God him- self Even no less a person than the learned philosopher Dr. Clarke, the defender of natural religion, admits, that " of the philosophers themselves, who should have corrected the errors of the vidgar, some argued themselves out of the belief of the very being of God." The following from Presi- dent Edwards's " Miscellaneous Observations," will be found to throw additional light on the subject : — " If the most sagacious of the philosophers were capable of doing this, after hearing so much of a first cause and a creation, what would they have done, and what would the gross of mankind, who are inattentive and ignorant, have thought of the matter, if nothing had been taught concerning God and the origin of things; but every single man left solely to such intimation as his own senses and reason coulu have given him i We find the earlier ages of the world did not trouble themselves ai)OUt the question, whether the being of God could be proved by reason ; but either never inquired into the matter, or took their opinions upon that head, merely from tradition. But allowing that every man is able to demonstrate to himself, that the world, and all things contained therein, are effects, and had a beginning, which I take to be a most absurd sup- position, aad look upon it to be almost impossiUe for unassisted reason to go so far J yet, if effects are to be ascribed to similar causes, and a good and wise effect must suppose a good and wise cause ; by the same way of reasoning, all ihe evil and irregularity in the wor^must be attributed • Heb. xi. 3. 188 REASON INSUFFICIENT. to an evil and unwise cause. So that either the first cause must be both good and evil, wise and foolish, or else there must be two first causes, an evil and irrational, as well as a good and wise principle. Thus man, left to himself, would be apt to reason, 'If the cause and the effects are simi- lar and conformable, matter must have a material cause, there being no- thing more impossible for us to conceive than how matter should be pro- duced by spirit, or any thing else but matter.' The best reasoner in the world, endeavouring to find out the causes of things by the things them- selves, might be led into the grossest errors and contradictions, and find himself, at the end, in extreme want of an instructor. " What instance can be mentioned, from any history, of any one na- tion under the sun, that emerged from atheism or idolatry into the know- ledge or adoration of the one true God, without the assistance of revela- tion 1 The Americans, the Africans, the Tartars, and the ingenious Chinese, have had time enough, one would think, to find out the right and true idea of God ; and yet, after above five thousand years' improve- ment, and the full exercise of reason, they have, at this day, got no far- ther in their progress towards the true religion, than to the worship of stocks and stones and devils. How many thousand years must be allowed to these nations to reason themselves into the true religion '! "WHat the light of nature and reason could do to investigate the knowledge of God, is best s.een by what they have already done. We cannot argue more convincingly on any foundation than that of known and incontestable facts." All this, and much more that might be said on the subject, goes to prove, that reason, whose province is not to invent, but to collect, arrange, and deduce, cannot discover first principles ; and that unless these are supplied by the law and the testimony; the mind must wander as it has done in the bewildering maze of uncertainty, and darken instead of seeing more clearly the reflected beams of revealed truth, which tradition has conveyed like a glimmering ray to the minds of most of the inhabitants of our globe.' It appears evident, then, from what has been vnritten, that all the relics of theology to be found in heathen lands, are only the remaining fragments which have been handed down by a vitiated and defective tradition. But more than this, we find people not only in Africa, but in other parts of the world, from whose intellectual horizon the last rays of tradition have fled, — proving what the Scriptures affirm, that man's depraved nature is such, as to choose darkness rather than light, — and who have now most emphatically forgotten God. The late Rev. William Roby, in his Lec- tures on Revealed Religion, from which some hints have been taken, makes the following remarks : "With respeeit to ourselves, it must be admitted, that we derived our knowledge of the truth from instruction ; and wherever it exists, it may be traced through antecedent generations, tp the first parents of the hu- man race : and they could derive it &om no other than their Creator. man's responsibility. 189 'The advocates of huinan reason and natural religion, may talk and write on these subjects, but their systems are radicaUy defective in various re- spects. They are not only obscure and confused ; inadequate and im- perfect ; different aiid contradictory ; bat are all of them merely hypo- thetical. They are founded upon nothing but presumption, they cannot justly pretend to certainty, for they acknowledge no infallible standard ; presenting no evidence of Divine authority, they have no claim to reli- gious obligation. Acknowledging no positive rule, no decisive testimony, no superior tribunal ; one individual pretending to reason, exercising his judgment upon them, has as great a right to deny, as another has to affirm." Since the publication of my sermon, preached before the Directors of the London Missionary Society, many questions have been put to me on the preceding subjects, which has induced me to proceed at greater length in this discussion. As to the question of man's responsibility, according to these views, the same question may be put with equal propriety, in reference to the idolater, whose "too superstitious" pa- rents taught him from earliest infancy to venerate a block of wood, or reptile deified ; or in reference to the deaf and dumb, or many others, whose senses are entire, whose minds were never cultivated by those who might have saved them. " Ye knew your duty, but ye did it not ;" will be the great condemning charge brought against the wilful transgressor, by the Judge of all the earth. The issue of the principles inculcated by Him, who shall come in flaming fire to take vengeance on those that know not God, will be, that " He who knew his Lord's will, and did it not, shall be beaten with many stripes ; but he who knew not his Lord's will, and committed deeds worthy of stripes, shall be beaten with few stripes." The apostle Paul asserts to the Athenians, that the times of pagan ignorance, " God winked at, but now commando th aU men every where to repent." The same apostle, feeling the fuU weight of the Saviour's com- mission, adds to the fearful list of iniquities, and flagitious sin.s, committed by his own countrymen, the Jew.s, that of " forbidding him and his colleagues to preach to the Gen- tries, that they might be saved." Thus, if the apostle is to be our example, and the commands of the Saviotur are to be our guide, our duty is as plain as if written by a noonday ray, to make known to perishimg heathen, whether at home or abroad, the words of eternal life. Before concluding this general review of the prevailing notions which exist among the tribes of Southern Africa, which throw some light on their origin, and present the most formidable barriers to their .evangelization ; a few rem- 190 Native customs. nants of tradition may be noticed. Among the tribes, and especially those nearer to the coast) some customs remain which are thought to have a reference to sacrifices, offer- ings, and purifications ; such as might he expected to he found among people descending from the East, as all the Bechuana tribes appear to have done. In many instances their slaughtering of animals on occasions of a tree beln^ struck with lightning, or to procure rain, or to restore the sick, may be easily traced to the inventive brain of wily ram- makers, who in such a case, as at their public festivals and ceremonies, never lose sight of their stomachs. One will try to coax the sickness out of a chieftain by setting him astride an ox, with its feet and legs tied ; and then smothering the animal by holding its nose in a large bowl of water. A feast follows, and the ox is devoured, sickness and aU. A sorcerer will pretend he cannot find out the guilty person, or where the malady of another lies, tiU he has got him to kill an ox, on which he manceuvres, by cutting out certain parts. Another doctor will require a goat, which he kills over the sick person, allowing the blood to run down the body ; ano- ther will require the fat of the kidney of a fresh slaughtered goat, saying, that any old fat will not do ; and thus he comes in for his chop. These slaughterings are prescribed ac- cording to the wealth of the individual, so that a stout ox might be a cure for a slight cold in a chieftain, while a kid would be a remedy for a fever among the poor, among whom there was no chance of obtaining any thing greater. The above ceremonies might with little difficulty be construed into sacrifices, if we felt anxious to increase the number of traditionary remains. Is it, however, to be wondered at among a pastoral people, whose choicest viand is broiled or boiled meat, and to whom fat of any kind is like the richest cordials, that they should solemnize every event or circum- stance with beef? When a covenant is made between par- ties, or a mutual treaty entered into, one animal, or more, must be kiUed ; and, like Jacob and Laban of old, they eat together. All this is very natural, but the following is not so agreeable a part of the business. When Sibonelo, a chief of the Barolong, made a covenant with Buys, who fled to him from Kafir-land, the paunch of a large ox was taken, with its contents, and an incision being made in each side of the stomach, the one forced his body through it, and the other followed, intimating by this ceremony that they were henceforward one people. But, beyond these, there is some- thing more like sacrifice among the Zoolus, or what may NATTJEAL THEOLOGV. 191 ■With more propriety "be rie-wed as honouring the manes of the dead ; to which reference •will he made in my journey to Moselekatse. However, it never appeared to me that they deified them any more than the thoughtless in this country do, when they swear by St George. The distin- guished and heroic deteds of those who have signaUzed them- selves in aggrandizing the nation, are the theme of their songs like those of Ossian, the son of Fingal. Their poets and public eulogists, to please their vain monarch, Work themselves up to a state of enthusiasm bordering on phrenzy, and attribute the most unbounded powers and achievements to personages of royalty and fame. A similar custom, doubt- less, gave rise to the deified heroes of antiquity. Is it surprising, that ignorant, and not unfrequently, feeble" minded chiefs, should yield to a kind of superstitious venera- tion and regard for the names of those who have distin- guished themselves by deeds of valour, until by frequent con- templation and eulogy they become most exaggerated and extravagant, so as to foster pride and vainglory, and awaken the suspicion of something more than human ? This has been the custom of all ages, and has been the fertile means of throwing an impenetrable veU over the history of many •characters and events, when the absence of letters prevented their being handed down to posterity in their naked form. The ceremonies to be found among the Bechuanas, ap- parently of Mosaic or patriarchal origin, are found upon ex- amination to be like shells without the kernel. Whatever may have been their origin, they have merged into the ordi- nary habits of savage life, and centuries ago lost the last vestiges of the tradition of their original design. Happy for us that we have not been left to feel after God among the distant orbs of heaven, or amid the diversified displays of power and skill in our own world. " If therefore natural theology is rightly defined to be, that which is attainable by the light of nature only, then all who have the light of na- ture, and the use of reason, are capable of attaining it ; otherwise, the definition wUl be false and imperfect. The general character of man will hold true that he is without knowledge, till he receives instruction, and without con- science, till informed what the wiU of God is."* The multitude of ignorant savages to be found in the world corroborates this statement, and the means by which some have simk lower than others in the depths of ignorance, * Ellis on Divine Things. 192 SYSTEMS OF IDOLATRY. may be easily traced. Nations have the sacred monuments of the past before their eyes from age to age, have the me- mentos of what they are intended to represent, and are con- stantly reminded by this means of the rehgion of their an- cestors. If we look over the map of the Gentile world, we find the victims of all the grades of idolatry, from the most re- fined and abstract, to the most savage and debased, involved in the gross darkness described in the preceding pages. Some nations from time immemorial have been under the domina- tion of systems so cruel, that their tenets may be read in characters of blood. Those of others are involved in so many labyrinths, that we cannot ascribe their contrivance to even a host of the most inventive minds, or to the experi- ence of a succession of ages. If we examine those idola- trous structures, which crush so many millions of our race in the East, which have endured for ages, and with their mul- tiplied ramifications, have tried the faith and zeal of the churches of Christ, the most legitimate conclusion at which we can arrive is, that Satan, the god of this world, has been most successful in aiding the minds of men, completely to transform " the invisible things" first revealed to man. Al though it must be admitted, that the Hindoos are highly in- tellectual, and their system is indicative of superlative cun- ning, yet, such is the delusion of its votaries, that they give themselves up, as if reason had reeled from its pivot, to a worship at which a babe might shriek with terror, or smile at as a toy. The immense structures which have been raised to perpe- tuate these strange commixtures of heaven and hell, and the puzzling dogmas of their shasters, only serve to retain the minds of millions in the grossest idolatry. We might select other grades, such as are to be found in the Eastern Archipelago, the South Sea Islands, or Ameri- ca, diverging, according to their respective positions, still far- ther from the original symbols of divine worship. As we traverse the more sequestered sections of the great human family, we find the glimmering rays of tradition stiU less conspicuous. Some even, have before their eyes the sacred remains of former ages in gigantic busts, or broken piles of ruined grandeur, which once echoed to the tones of idola- trous devotion, where hecatombs were slain, and which were perfumed -with the incense of votive ofierings, while myriads there shouted " Great is Diana." Ask their descendants or successors what these things mean ; and they are silent as HOW«lFRICA WAS COLONIZED. 193 the Kfeless deities before their eyes. Among some a few shadows seem still to linger, which the fancy of a sorcerer employs to feed the mind of the populace, with ideas more gross than could have arisen from the absence of all tradi- tion. Thus we find in the downward scale of human de- gradation, men, who as the apostle says, " did not like to re- tain God in their knowledge,',' turn the truth into a lie or an idol. These again become varied according to the fancies of their votaries : others are content with fetiches and charms, and finally some from their nomade life and isolated position, have lost all idea of the being of a God. If we find in some parts of the world those, who, though reclining under the very shadow of edifices of idolatry, are ignorant of their origin or use ; what are we to expect from Africans, whose progenitors, I am led to suppose, were not very civdized themselves when they first began to people their vast continent ? Africa, doubtless, was orginaUy peo- pled by each family, or tribe of its first settlers, becoming too numerous for its locality, some branching out to the more sequestered parts ; and, not unfrequently, communities rent asunder by intestine broils, have sought separate settlements elsewhere ; others, again, have been driven to take refuge from a superior force in the recesses of the wild champaign ; and, lastly, little communities have probably arisen, from re- bels and murderers, whose crimes have compelled them to seek shelter among beasts of prey. We can readily perceive from these circumstances, how easy it was for a people dur- ing such a lapse of time, descending from Mizraim and Phut, and migrating through Egypt ; or descending from Gush, and passing from Arabia to the eastern and southern parts of the African continent, from the fierce and restless tribes of Ishmael, to forget every vestige of the creeds of their progenitors. It is easy for men to degenerate in reli- gion and civilization, especially wben compelled to lead a wandering life, which is by no means favourable to the cul- tivation of devotion in the soul ; but numberless examples prove, that nothing less than a divine lever can raise them. In all ages " hunger and ignorance have been the great bn* talizers of the human race ;" and, if we look at the large tracts of barren country inhabited by some of the African tribes, it is not surprising that they are what they are, — ig- norant, filthy, and sometimes very disgusting in their appear- ance. Degraded as they are, they merit not the epithets which have been heaped upon them, by those who are im- 17 194 PHYSICAL VAUIETY tH KAS. '• mindful that their position only, has prevented them from becoming Hottentots and Bushmen themselves. We close our remarks on this subject by a ;quotation from " Researches into the Physical History of Mankind," by Dr. Pritchard. " If these tribes are, as 1 have endeavoured to prove, not a distinct class of nations, but only the offsets of stems, differing widely from them when existing under more favourable circumstances ; if the apparent in- feriority in their organization, their ugliness, thin, meagre, and deformed stature, are usually connected with p|iysical conditions unfavourable to the development of bodily vigour, — there will be no proof of original in- feriority in anything that can be adduced respecting them. Their per- sonal deformity and intellectual weakness, if these attributes really be- long to them, must be regarded as individual varieties. Similar defects are prod uced in every part of the human race by the agency of physical circumstances parallel to those under which the tribes in question are known to exist. If these were reversed, it is probable that a few genera- tions would obliterate the effect which has resulted from them." Vol. ii. p. 349, dre. It may also be here added, from the same learned author, " That they have not indeed contributed towards the advancement of human art or science, but they have shown themselves willing and able to profit by these advantages when introduced among them. The civili- zation of many African nations is much superior to that of the Aborigines of Europe, during the ages which preceded the conquests of the Goths and Swedes in the north, and the Romans in the southern parts." CHAPTER XVIII. We shall now return to ^r labours among the Bechuanas, which had already been carried on for about five years. The natives had by this time become perfectly callous and indifferent to all instruction, except it were followed by some temporal benefit in assisting them with the labour of our hands, which was not always in our power. The following extract from a letter written at tliis time, depicts our real situation : — " I often feel at a loss what to say relative to the kingdom of Christ, at this station. A sameness marks the events of each returning day. No conversions, no inquiry after God, no objections raised to exercise our powers in de- THE WOMEN MONOPOLIZE THE WATER, 195 fence. Indifference and stupidity foxBj the wreath on every hvoyf: — ignorance, the grossest ignorance of Divine things, farn\s the hasis of every action ; it is only things earthly, sen- sual, and devilish, which stimulate, to activity and mirth, while the great subject of the soul's redemption appears to. them like an old and ragged garment, possessing neither loveliness nor worth. O,, when shall the day-star arise on, their hearts! We preach, we converse, we catechise, we pray, hut without the least apparent success. Only satiate their mendicant spirits by perpetually giving, and we are all that is good, but refuse to meet their demands, their praises are turned to ridicule and abuse." Our time was incessantly occupied in building, and labour- ing frequently for the meat that perisheth ; but our exertions were often in vain, for while we sowed, the natives reaped. The site of the station was a light sandy soilj where no kind of vegetables would grow without constant irrigation. Our water ditch, which was some miles in length, had been led out of the Kuruman River, and passed in its course through the gardens of the natives. As irrigation was to them en- tirely unknown, fountains and streams had been suffered to run to waste, where crops even of native grain (holcus sor- ghum), which supports amazing drought, are seldom very abundant from the general scarcity of rain. The native women, seeing the fertilizing effect of the water in our gar- dens, thought very naturally that they had an equal right to their own, and took the liberty of cutting open our water ' ditch, and allowing it on some occasions to flood theirs. This mode of proceeding left us at times without a drop of water, even for cuUnary purposes. It was in vain that we pleaded, and remonstrated with the chiefs, the women were the masters in this matter, Mr. Hamilton and I were daily compelled to go alternately three miles with a spade, about three o'clock p. m., the hottest time of the day, and turn in the many outlets into native gardens, that we might have a little moisture to refresh our burnt-up vegetables during the night, which we were obUged to irrigate when we ought to have rested from the labours of the day. Many pight watches were spent in this way ; and after we had raised with great labour vegetables, so necessary to our constitu- tions,, the natives would steal them by day as weU as by night, and after a year's toil and care we scarcely reaped anything to reward us for pur labour. The women would watch our return from turning the streams into the water- course, and would immediately go emd open the outlets again, 196 srrtrltioN op a missionaky's wife. thus leaving us on a thirsty plain many days without a drop of water, excepting that which was carried from a distant fountain, unider a cloudless sky, when the thermometer at noon would frequently rise to 120° in the shade. When we complained of this, the women, who one would have thought would have been the first to appreciate the princi- jdes by which we were actuated, became exasperated, and going to the higher dam, where the water was led out of the river, with their picks completely destroyed it, allowing the stream to flow in its ancient bed. By this means the sup ply of water we formerly had was reduced to one-half, and that entirely at the mercy of those who loved us only when we could supply them with tobacco, repair their tools, or ad- minister medicine to the afilicted. But all this, and much more, failed to soften their feeHngs towards us. Mrs. Mof- fat, from these circumstances, and the want of female assist- ance, has been compelled to send the heavier part of our linen a hundred miles to be washed. Our situation might be better conceived than described : not one believed our report amontg the thousands by whom We were surrounded. Native aid, especially to the wife of the missionary, though not to be dispensed with, was a source of anxiety, and an addition to our cares ; for any in- dividual might not only threaten, but carry a rash purpose into eflect. For instance, Mrs. M., with a babe in her arms.' begged, and that very humbly, of a woman, just to be kind enough to move out of a temporary kitchen, that she might shut it as usual before going into the place of worship. The woman, a plebeian, seized a piece of wood to hurl it at Mrs. M.'s head, who of course immediately escaped to the house of God, leaving her the tmdisputed occupant of the kitchen, any of the contents of which she would not hesitate to ap- propriate to her ovi^n use. It required no little fortitude and forbearance in the wife of the missionary, -who had to teep at home, and attend to the cares and duties of a family, to have the house crowded viath those who would seize a stone, and dare interference on her part As many men and wo- men as pleased might come into our hut, leaving us not room even to turn ourselves, and making every thing they touched the colour of their own greasy red attire ; while some were talldng, others would be sleeping, and some pil- fering whatever they could lay' their hands upon. This would keep the housewife a perfect prisoner in a sufibcating atmos- phere, almost intolerable ; and when they departed they left ten times more than their number bemnd— ^company stUl CHARACTER OF OUB, CONGREGATIONS. 197 more offensive. As it was not pleasant to take our meals amongst such filth, our dinner was often deferred for hours, hoping for their departure ; but, after all, it had to be eaten when the natives wer-e despatching their game at our feet. Our attendance at public worship would vary from one to forty; and these very often manifesting the greatest indeco- rum. Some would be snoring ; others laughing ; some working ; and others, who might even be styled the noblesse, would be employed in removing from their ornaments cer- tain nameless insects, letting liiem run about the forms, while sitting by the missionary's wife. Never having been accustomed to chairs or stools, some, by way of imitation, would sit with their feet on the benches, having their knees, according to their usual mode of sitting, drawn up to their chins. In this position one would fall asleep and tumble over, to the great mierriment of his fellows; On some occa- sions an opportunity would be watched to rob, when the missionary was engaged in public service. The thief would just put his head within the door, discover who was in the pulpit, and, knowing he could not leave his rostrum before a certain time had elapsed, would go to his house and take what he could lay his hands upon. When Mr. Hamilton and I met in the evening, we almost always had some tale to teU. about our losses, but never about our gains, except those of resignation and peace, the results of patience, and faith in the unchangable purposes of Jehovah. " I will be exalted among the heathen," cheered our often baffled and drooping spirits. Some nights, or rather mornings, we had to record thefts committed in the course of twenty-four hours in our houses, our smith-shop, our garden, and among our cattle in the field. These they have more than once driven into a bog or mire, at a late hour informing us of the accident, as they termed it ; and, as it was then too dark to render assistance, one or more would fall a prey to the hyenas or hungry na- tives. One night they entered our cattle-fold, killed one of our best draught oxen, and carried the whole away except one shoulder. We were compelled to use much meat, from the great scarcity of grain and vegetables ; our sheep we had to purchase at a distance ; and very thankful might we be, if, out of twenty, we secured the largest half for our- selves. They would break their legs, cut off their taUSj and more frequently carry off the whole carcase. Tools, such as saws, axes, and adzes, were losses severely felt, as we could not at that time replace them, when there was no in- 17* 198 THE BEWITCHED POT. tercourse whatever with the Colony. Some of our tools and utensils which they stole, on finding the metal not what they expected, they would bring back, beaten into all dhapes, and offer them in exchange for some other article. Knives were always eageriy coveted, our metal spoons they melted ; and when We were supplied with plated iron ones, which they found not so pliable, they supposed them bewitched. Very often, when employed working at a distance from the house, if there was no one in whom he could confide, the mis- sionary would be oompeUdd to carry them all to the place where he went to seek a draught of walex, well knowing that if they were left they would take wings before he could return. The following ludicrous circumstance once happened, and was related to the writer by a native in graphic style. Two men had succeeded in stealing an iron pot. Having just taken it from the fire, it was rather warm for handing conveniently over a fence, and by doing so, it fell on a stone and was cracked. " It is iron," said they, and off they went with their booty, resolving to make the best of it, that is, if it would not serve for cooking, they would transform it into knives and spears. After some time had elapsed, and the hue and cry about the missing pot had nearly died away, it was brought forth to a native smith, who had laid in a stock of charcoal for the occasion. The pot was farther broken to make it more convenient to lay hold of with the tongs, which are generally of the bark of a tree. The native Vul- can, unacquainted with cast-iron, having with his small bel- lows, one in each hand, produced a good heat, drew a piece from the fire. To his utter amazement itflewir^to pieces at the first stroke of his little hammer. Another and anothfet piece was brought xmder the action of the fire, and then un- der the hammer with no better success. Both the thief, and the smith, gazing with eyes and mouth dilated on the frag-- ments of iron scattered round the stone anvil, declared their beUef that the pot was bewitched, and concluded pot-steal- ing to be a bad speculation. Mr. Hamilton, whose house was frequently left alone, fared worse than when there was any one to keep an eye on visitors. He has more than once returned from preach- ing, and found a stone left in the pot instead of the meat on which he had hoped to dine. Indeed there would be no end to describing all the losses, mortifications, and disap- pointments we daily met with in the course of our duty. We can never look back on those years of sorrow without CONSOLATIONS. 199 lifting up our hearts to God in grateful adoration for tlie grace afforded, while we hung our harps upon the willows, and after years of labour felt as if it would never fall to our lot to sing the song of triumph in a strange land. Often have we met together to read the word of God, that never- failing source of comfort, and, contented with being only the pioneers, have poured out our souls in prayer for the perish- ing heathen around. There were seasons when, by faith, in the sure word of promise, we could look beyond " the gloomy hills of darkness," and rejoice in the fuU assurance of hope in the latter-day gloiy. These were a few of our difficulties, while others, more perplexing still, arose from the conduct of individuals who had accompanied the mis- sionaries or assistants. These, though selected from other stations as professors of religion, when they came to associate with the natives, exhibited much of that weakness which may be expected from people just emerging from the gross- ness of heathenism. When the needful discipline was exercised on some, others were offended, and thus caused much pain of mind, by an exhibition of improper tempers towards those whose only object was to save them from ruin. The Bechuanas could not fail of observing these inconsistencies, and thus they became stumbhng-blocks to the heathen- The acquisition of the language was an object of the first imjjprtance. This was to be done under circumstances the most unfavourable, as there was neither time nor place of retirement for study, and no interpreter worthy the name.- A few, and but a few words were collected, and these very incorrect, from the ignorance of the interpreter of the gram- matical structure either of his own or the Dutch language, through which medium all our intercourse was carried on. It was something like groping in the dark, and many were the ludicrous blunders I made. The more waggish of those from whom I occasionally obtained sentences and forms of speech, would richly enjoy the fun, if they succeeded in leading me into egregrious mistakes and shameful blunders ; but though I had to pay dear for my credulity, I learned something. After being compelled to attend to every species of manual, and frequently menial labour for the whole day, working under a burning sun, standing on the sasv-pit, labouring at the anvU, treading clay, or employed in cleaning a water ditch, it may be imagined that I was in no very fit condition for study, even when a quiet hour could be obtained in the evening for that purpose. And this was 200 ERROR INEVITABLE. not all ; an efBcient interpreter could not be found in the country ; and when every thing' was ready for inquiry, the native mind, unaccustomed to analyze abstract terms, would, after a few questions, be completely bewildered. 1 can fully enter into the feelings of Dr. Burchell, in the following extract from his travels, bearing directly on the subject : — " Those whose minds have been expanded by a European education, cannot readily conceive the stMpidity, as they would call it, of savages, in eveiy thins beyond the most simple ideas and the most uncompounded nations, either in moral or in physical knowledge. But, the fact is, their life embraces so few incidents, their occupations, their thoughts, and their cares are confined to so few objects, that their ideas must necessarily be equally few, and equally confined. I have sometimes been obliged to allow Mochunka to leave off the task when he had scarcely given me a dozen of words : as it was evident that exertion of mind, or continued employment of the facuUy of thinkings soon wore out his powers of re- flection, and rendered him realty incapable of paying any longer atten- tion to the subject. On such occasions, he would betray by his listless- ness and the vacancy of his countenance, that abstract questions of the plainest kind soon exhausted all mental strength, and reduced him to the state of a child whose reason was dormant. He would then complain that his head began to ache ; and as it was useless to persist invita Mi- nerva, he always received immediately his dismissal for that day." The reducing of an oral language to writing being so im- portant to the missionary, he ought to have eveiy encourage- ment afforded him, and be supphed with the means neces- sary for the attainment of such an object. The Bechuanas, though they had never known the VForth of time, could, like men in general, set a high value on service done for a sfran- ger. They supposed that, as we were supported by re- ■ sources, not drawn from the country, we had only to call for riches, and they would come ; while at the same time we had the greatest difficulty in making both ends meet, which indeed we could not have accomplished without personal hard labour. A missionary who commences giving direct instruction to the natives, though far from being competent in the lan- guage, is proceeding on safer ground than if he were employ- ing an interpreter, who is not proficient in both languages, and who has not a tolerable understanding of the doctrines of the Gospel. Trusting to an ignorant and unquahfied in- terpreter, is attended witTi consequences not only ludicrous, but dangerous to the very objects which lie nearest the mis- sionary's heart. The natives will smile, and make allow- ances for the blundering speeches of the missionary • and though some may convey the very opposite meaning to that which he intends, they know from his general character SERIOUS BLUNDER. 201 what it should be, and ascribe the blunder to his ignorance of the language. They are not so charitable towards his interpreter, whose interest it is to maice them believe that he is master of a language of which they know nothing, and consequently they take for granted, that all is correct which comes through his hps. I have been very much troubled in my mind on hearing that the most erroneous renderings have been given to what I had said. Since acquiring the lan- guage, I have had opportunities of discovering this with my own ears, by hearing sentences translated, which at one mo- ment were calculated to excite no more than a smile, while others would produce intense agony of mind from their bor- dering on blasphemy, and which the interpreter gav« as the word of God The interpreter who cannot himself read, and who understands very partially what he is translating, if he is not a very humble ohe, will, as I have very often heard, introduce a cart-wheel, or an ox-tail into some pas- sage of simple sublimity of Holy Writ, just because some word in the sentence had a similar sound. Thus the pas- sage, " The salvation of the soul is a great and important subject ;" The salvation of the soul is a very great sack^ must sound strange indeed, Oh, it is an untold blessing for one in such circumstances to have an humble and devout interpreter, who feels the very words glow as they pass through his hps. I have felt in Namaqua-land, with such an one, as if a holy unction from above were resting both on myself and interpreter. Alas I for us among the Bechua-. nas, ours was not of this description ; he had accompanied Mr' Campbell to Kurrechane, brought home a concubine with him, and apostatizing, became an enemy to the mission. This was one of the trials to which allusion has been made, and was a severe blow ; whUe the heathen laughed at our puny efforts to reform the nation. They had boasted that our Jesus and Jehovah, of whom we liked to talk so frequently, should never get one convert to bow the knee to their sway ; and now these boasts were reiterated with epi- thets of contumely and scorn. Sometimes a cheering ray would pierce through the thick gloom, which hung over our prospects, in the form of a kind word or action on the part of a chief or person of influence, though that was generally either the precursor of a favour to be asked, or a return for one granted. We needed tiie graces of faith and patience, and hut for almighty suppor^ we must have fainted . and fallen in the struggle. It was then that the prayers of the churches at home were answered, though not -Hi the vray 202 ITDJERATING. human minds anticipated, ttwas then that the EKvine promises were perused with renewed feehngs of ardour and consolation ; and it was theti that we were taught experi- mentally, « that it was not hy might, nor by power, hut by my Spirit, saith the Lord." It did indeed produce a melan- choly feeling, when we looked around us, on so many im- mortal beings, not one of whom loved us, none sympathized^ none considered the day of their merciful visitation ; but with their lives, as with their lips, were saying to the Al- mighty, " Depart from us, we desire not the knowledge of thy ways." With such interpreters and aids as we could obtain. We ceased not to lift up our voices to proclaim the Gospel jubi- lee. The commission of him, who tasted death for every man, dwelt on our tongues ; and though the declaration of Omnipotence, " My word shall not return unto me void," as- sured us that our labours were not in vain, stiU we felt it an arduous employ. Every means was resbrted to, and every season improved, to arrest the attention of the native rnind, andi every thing hbpeful, even in the countenance of an indi- vidual, was eagerly treasured up in our hearts ; but to our grief, we fotmd tfvery indication like the morning cloud and the early dew. We itinerated by turn every Sabbath, to the neighbouring villages : and . very frequently after four and five miles' walk, could not get an individual to listen to the message of Divine mercy. Without the influence of the •chief men of the hamlet, it was scarcely possible at any time to collect a few individuals together ; and if this was accomplished, they thought they were entitled to a reward for the exercise of their authority in promoting the object of our wishes ; and not unfrequently, when they commanded, or rather, pretended to comtnand the attendance of their people, they laughed at the mandate, which they well knew was only that of the lips. Finding that a little bit of tobacco had some influence in increasing our congregations at these out-places, as well as for the purpose of obtaining a draught of water, we would take a small portion of our little stock ; but when we happened to forget it, we were frequently told to go back first, arid' bring the tobacco. We were wont to start very early, having to go on foot, in order to return to the station before th&^un got so hot as to cause walking on the Sand, especially in thin shoes, to be attended with con- sideraible pain. I have kno-^ the chief of a village defer the collecting of his people together tUl the sun had become very hot, faiowing'our extreme reluetance to return without NATIVE VIEWS OF THE MISSIONATY CHARACTER. 203 having had an opportunity of saying- something to them about their eternal interests; and when they found this delay compelled the missionary in his course homeward over a sandy plain, to step from one tuft of grass to another, and stop frequently under the shadow of a bush till his glowing feet should cool ; it afforded them no little satisfaction and enjoyment. Many of them thought us a strange race of beings ; while some would insinuate that we had some other object in view, t)f a very different character than to make them believe in fables ; and what was, if possible, still more consolatory, they would tell us, that we had come to their country to get a living. Some brighter minds, however, inferred from what they saw that all our resources being foreign, and some of them employed to administer to the wants of the natives, besides the taxes levied by thieves, that these surmises were not exactly the whole of the truth, but that we must be run- aways from our native land, preferring a suffering life in 4heir country to returning to our own, to be punished for some crime of which we had been guilty. " What is the reason you do not return to your own land ?" asked a chief, when I begged him to endeavour to recover my knife, which had been stolen from my jacket that I had laid down while preaching. " If your land was a good one, or if you were not afraid of returning, you would not be so content to live as you do, while people devour you," said another. Our itinerating journeys to the Batlaros, who Uved at Pa- tane, about twenty miles to the westward, were of a more agreeable nature, if a comparison may be drawn. The thing was more novel to that people, and a congregation might be convened, though their wildness and ignorance may in some measure be conceived of by the following ex- tract from one of my journals ; — " Arrived at Tlogo's village. Tlogo the chief^ and a number of people, having congregated at the wagon, I embraced the opportunity of sj^eaking to them a little about the things of God. I had scarcely be- gun, when the greater part of them took to theii- heels. At the conclusion, something was said in reference to what had taken place, when one who could speak a few words of th^ Dutch language broke out in the following harangue : ' The Bechiianas are very hard-headed, and will not hear, though God has given' them' so mahy tlungs. He has given theni oxen, goats, and women,' — ranking the latter among the in- ferior animals. The missionary requires incessant patience and perseve- 204 THE MORAVIANS IN GREENLAND. ranee, for often when he has, by many kind speeches and & present to the chief, collected an audience, he finds his first words are only a signal for instant dismissal. I have found some chiefs, who, entirely ignorant of the motives of the mis- sionary, have professed great anxiety to have one, and would bring a young daughter into the presence of Mrs. Moffat, as- suring me that he would give her to be my wife, were I to take up my abode with him. This, no doubt, was very gene- rous ; and he, poor man, in his ignorance, must have thought me not only saucy but sDly, not to embrace so fascinating an offer. These visits, although without any apparent success, were not lost either upon the natives or ourselves ; for while they gradually famUiarized our character and objects to the people, they taught us lessons very important in preparing us for trials greater than these. In imparting instruction, we were obliged to keep to first principles. Among such a people it was necessary to assert yrho God was, as well as what He had done for a sinful world. It is recorded of the Moravian missionaries in Greenji land, that they had been in the habit of directing the atten- tion of their hearers to the existence and attributes of God, the fall of man, and the demands of the Divine law ; hoping thus, by degrees, to prepare the minds of the heathen for the more mysterious and sublime truths of the Gospel. As, however, this plan had been tried for five years with no suc- cess, they now resolved, in the first instance, simply to preach Christ crucified to the benighted Greenlanders ; and not only were their own souls set at peculiar liberty in speaking, but the power of the Holy Ghost evidently accompanied the word spoken to the hearts and consciences of the hearers ; so that they trembled at their danger as sinners, and rejoiced with joy unspeakable in the appointment and exhibition of Christ as a Saviour from the wrath to come. This fact has been reiterated ; and, by the deductions drawn from it, may, we believe, have been led to suppose that the subsequent labours of other missionaries, for sixteen years, in the South Sea Islands, without firuit, must have arisen from their not " thus directing their principal attention to the only subjeclj which was hkely to be permanently profitable to the heathen." This, however, we conceive to be a very erroneous conclu- sion; for if we examine the journals and experience of those who laboured a much longer period than the Greenland missionaries, with no better success, we shall find that the burden of their report was, " God so loved the world," etc. If these missionaries, whom we can never cease to admire. Paul's preaching at athens. 205 and whose extraordinary love to the Saviour influenced them to brave the tempests of an arctic sky, had confined their Jffeaching exclusively to the attributes of God, which, as muiisters of the New Testament, we can scarcely think they did, we should not wonder at their little success. It ought also to be recollected, that, by their first efibrts to enlighten the minds of the natives respecting the character of the Di- vine Being, they were preparing the way for dilating more fully on the theme of man's redemption. The course pursued by the apostles among the Jews, who were acquainted with the nature and operations of the true God, was to proclaim the reign of the Messiah, and even to baptize in the name of the Lord Jesus only ; but Paul, whose aU-absorbing theme was Christ, and Him crucified, deter- mined, while standing on Mar's HUl, among the literati of Athens, to discourse first on the character and attributes of the true God, of whomi they were ignorant. His sermon, or rather the exordium, is entirely restricted to the establish- ment of this most important point. This was his mode of convincing both Stoics and Epicureans of the fallacy of their tenets ; and by thus introducing the character and govern- ment of what was to them an " Unknown God," he pre- pared them for the attraction of the Cross, which was to the Jews a stumbling-block, and to the Greeks foolishness. This inimitable discourse was addressed to idolaters, and admira- bly calculated to overthrow the notions of his opponents ; for while the Epicureans acknowledged ^o gods, except in name, they absolutely denied that they exercised any government over the world or its inhabitants ; and while the Stoics did not deny the existence of the gods, they held that all human afiairs were governed by fate. The Acts of the Apostles has very properly been desig- nated a " Missionary Book ;" and he who takes the first pro- pagators of Christianity as his models, cannot err. The missionary having this guide, and relying on the direction and promises of the Great Head of the Church, will find it necessary to adapt his discourses to the circumstances of the people among whom he labours. In Greenland he will, in the first instance, endeavour to undermine the influence of the Angekoks ; in Western Africa, that of the Greegrees ; and, in Southern Africa, the assumed power of Rain-makers ; by declaring that " God made the world and all things there- in, and giveth to all Ufe, breath, and all things." This should be done more especially among a people who have no idol- 18 206 A HOTTENTOT WOMAN. atry whatever ; while the exhibition of Him who is the de- sire of all nations ought on no occasion to be withheld. The question may be raised, What would Paul have done among the Hindoos, the Esquimaux, or the atheistical na- tions of the interior of Africa ? We presume that- he who found it necessary, yea, of incalculable importance to be- come all things to all men, would leave the mode of argu- ment requisite to convince the Jew, and preach to them as he did to the people of Lystra, that they should turn from their vanities unto the living God, who made heaven and earth and seas, and all things that are therein ; and turn the attention from soothsayers, sorcerer, charms and amulets, to that divine and gracious Being who gives rain from heaven, and fruitful seasons, fiUing our hearts with food and gladness. All this the missionary finds it necessary to do, to clear away a mass of rubbish which paralyzes the mental powers of the natives ; while he knows full well, that if he wishes to save souls, he must preach Christ, the power of God and the wis- dom of God, without whit!h all his efforts to save souls must be like the sounding brass and tinkling cymbal. We found it necessary to make every subject as striking and interesting as possible to gain attention, for our greatest complaint was indifference, a cold assent being the most we could obtain from even the most intelligent of them. We held one service in Dutch on the Sabbath evenings for the edification of our own souls as well as those of two or three Hottentots and their families. This was the only service in which we felt any thing like real enjoyment, the others af- fording only that which arose from the sense of discharging a duty. About this time a circumstance occurred which operated as a balm to some of our sorrows. We had been exceed- ingly tried by the conduct of Fransinna, a Hottentot woman, from Bethelsdorp. She had taken offence at our having sent away a young Hottentot in our service on account of immoral conduct, which disgraced the mission in the eyes of the Be- chuanas. She took this opportunity of instigating the king and his people against us, by insinuating that we had ascrib- ed it to Mothibi, who, of course, was hurt at being charged with that which was our ovm act. While her unchristian and violent spirit was threatening the overthrow of the mis- sion, she was suddenly seized with a remarkable distemper, which pro^irated her in a short time on a bed of sickness. She -was visited and faithfully dealt with. Her conduct in endeavouring to frustrate our efforts among HER ILLNESS AND DEATH. 207 the Bechuanas, was set before her in its true colours. She ■was soon thoroughly convinced of the guilt of such hostility, and of the reasonableness of the step on our part which had excited her displeasure. She franldy confessed her crimes, was cut to the heart for the injury she had done to the cause, and earnestly implored forgiveness, when she was directed afresh to the fountain opened for sin. She remained several months in severe affliction, and about a month before hex death, one of her legs from the knee was con- signed to the dust, th6 rest of her limbs meanwhile gradually decaying ; but while worms were hterally destroying her body, she knew in whom she had beUeved. From the commencement of her affliction, the Lord had made her to feel that he had a controversy With her, and thrice happy was it for her that she heard the rod and Him who had appointed it. She acknowledged that for some time pre- vious she had wandered from God, and had done things to the grief of our souls and the injury of the cause ; she also said that she had used her endeavours to persuade her husband and the other Hottentots to abandon the station and return home, and that in the midst of her fiery opposi tion to us the Lord laid his hand upon her. She had thus been brought to a sense of her danger, and to have recourse to the precious blood of Christ which cleanseth from all sin. She made a full, free, and pubUo confession of all her ini- quity; and a short time before her death, remembering again the injury she had attempted to do by endeavouring to persuade the men to abandon the mission, she called them together to her bedside, and, as her dying request, entreated them not to leave the missionaries, however accumulated their privations might be, adding, that it was at their peril they dejserted them. During the whole of her illness not a murmur escaped her lips. Resting on the righteousness of Christ, she gloried in his cross. A lively gratitdde to God, who had redeemed her, beamed forth in her whole demean- our, and when we were called to witness her last struggle with the king of terrors, we beheld with feehngs no tongue can utter,' the calmness and serenity of her mind in the hveiy anticipation of immortal glory, and saw her breathe her last. Thus, as with captive Israel of old, " our God did lighten our eyes, and give us a little reviving in our bondage." CHAPTER XIX. In every heathen country the missiouaiy findsj to his sorrow, some predominating barriers to his usefulness, -which require to be overcome before he can exppct to reach the ju4gnients of the populace. Sorcerers or rain-makers, for both offices are generally assumed by one individual, are the principal with which he has to contend in the interior of Southern Africa. They are, as Mr. Kay rightly designates them, " our inveterate enemies, . and uniformly oppose the introduction of Christianity amongst their countrymen to the utmost of their power. Like the angekoks of the Greenland- ers, the pawaws of the Indians, and the greegrees of Western Africa, they constitute the very pillars of Satan's kingdom in all places where such impostors are found. By them is his throne supported and the people kept in bondage; when these, therefore, are confounded, and constrained to flee, we cannot but rejoice, for then indeed have we demonstrative evidence that " the kingdom of God is not in word, but in power." The rain-maker is in the estimation of the people no mean personage, possessing an influence over the minds of the people superior even to that, of their king, who is likewise compelled to yield to the dictates of this arch-offi- cial. The anomalies in the human character can alone account for reasonable, and often intelligent beings yielding a passive obedience to the absurd demands of this capricious individual. Nothing can exceed his freaks of fancy, and the adroitness with which he can awe the public mind and lead thousands captive at his wUl. Each tribe has one, and sometimes more, who are also doctors and sextons, or the superintendants of the burying of the dead, it being generally believed that that ceremony has some influence over the watery treasures which float in the gkies. He wUl some- times give orders, that none" of the dead must be buried, but dragged to a. distance from the town to be devoured by the hyenas and jackals. One old woman died in her house not far from, our premises ; we dared not commit the body to the dust, and having no friend to perform the needful duty, her son was called from a distance. From their national CEREMONY OF BUEIAL. 209 horror of a corpse, he tied a thong to her leg, avoiding the touch of that form which gave him hirth, dragged the corpse to some Bushes, and left the thong, because it had been in contact with the body of his mother. Though the bodies of the poor are habitually exposed, the orders of the rain-maker apply to all, because if any -were buried it would not rain. This shows that, in their ceremonies connected with bury- ing the dead, there is no reference to pleasing the spirits of the departed; on the contrary, a rain-maker himself con- tended that there were no such existences. " What is the difference," he asked me, pointing to his dog, " between me and that animal ? You say I am immortal, and why not my dog or my ox ? They die, and do you see their souls? What is the difference between man and the beasts? None, except that man is the greater rogue of the two." Such was that wise man's view of man's dignity and man's im- mortality. Yet, notwithstanding this low estimate, when a person was buried, a privilege granted to the miore noble, it was attended to with scrupulous minuteness. The following is a brief sketch of the ceremony of inter- ment, and the custom which prevails among these tribes in reference to the dying. . When they see any indications of approaching dissolution in fainting fits or convulsive throes, they throw a net over the body, and hold it in a sitting post- ure, with the knees brought in contact with the chin, till life is gone. The grave, which is frequently made in the fence surrounding the cattle fold, or in the fold itself, if for a man, is about three feet in diameter, and six feet deep. The body is not conveyed through the door of the fore-yard or court connected with each house, but an opening is made in the fence for that purpose. It is carried to the grave, having the head covered with a skin, and is placed in a sitting posture. Much time is spent in order to fix the corpse exactly facing the north ; and though they have no compass, they manage, after some consultation, to place it very nearly in the required position. Portions of an ant-hUl are placed about the feet, when the net which held the body is gradually withdrawn ; as the grave is filled up, the earth is handed in with bowls, while two men stand in the hole to tread it down round the body, great care being taken to pick out every thing like a root or pebble. When the earth reaches the height of the mouth, a small twig or branch of an acacia is thrown in, and on the top of the head a few roots of grass are placed ; and when the grave is nearly filled, another root of grass is fixed immediately above the head, part of which stands above 18* 2l0 SEVERE DROUGHT. ground. When finished, the men and women stoop, and with their hands scrape the loose soil around on tff the little mound. A large howl of water, with an infusion of bulbs, is then brought, when the men and women wash their hands and the upper part of their feet, shouting " pula, pula," rain, rain. An old woman, probably a relation, will then bring his weapons, bows, arrows, war axe, and spears, also grain and garden seeds of various kinds, and even the bone of an old pack-ox, with other things, and address the grave, say- ing, " there are all your articles." These are then taken away, and bowls of water are poured on the grave, when all retire, the women waihng, " yo, yo, yo," with some doleful dirge, sorrowing without hope. These ceremonies vary in different localities, and according to the rank of the individ- ual, who is committed to the dust. It is remarkable that they should address the dead ; and I have eagerly embraced this season to convince them that if they did not believe in the immortahty of the soul, it was evident from this, to them now unmeaning custom, that their ancestors once did. Some would admit this might possibly have been the case, but doubted whether they could have been so foolish. But with few exceptions among such a people, argument soon closes, or is turned into ridicule, and the great difficulty pre- sents itself of producing conviction where there is no reflecr tion. When we would appeal to the supposed influence of the dead body in neutralizing the rain-niaker's medicines for producing rain, and inquire how such an influence operated, the reply would be, " The rain-maker says so." Years of drought had been severely felt, and the natives, tenacious of their faith in the potency of a man, held a council, and passed resolutions to send for a rain-maker of renown from the Bahurutsi tribe, 200 miles north-east of the Kuruman station. Rain-makers have always most honour among a strange people, and therefore they are generally foreigners. The one in question had been very successfiu among the Bahurutsian mountains, which, lying east of the Backbone of Africa, and at the sources of those rivers which empty themselves into the Indian Ocean, were visited not only with great thunder-storms, but land rains, with the un- der strata of clouds, which the na,tives call female ones, resting on the summits. It was natural to suppose that the offer must be a tempting one .which could draw him from a post so lucrative, and where he had so signalized his boasted powers. The Bechuanas possess very inventive minds ; and when they have a point to gain, as truth and honour are EMBASSY FOR A RAIN-MAKER. 211 never regarded, they find no difEculty in embellisliing their story. The ambassEidors received their commission with the strictest injunction not to return withoiit the man. No doubt many were their cogitations on the journey how they might hest succeed. Promises were cheap, and with a redun- dalnce of the fairest kind, they succeeded beyond expecta- tion. This, however, was not surprising, -when they assured him that, if he would only come to the land of the Batlapis, and open the teats of the heavens, which had become as hard as a stone, cause the rains to fall and quench the flam- ing ground, he should be made the greatest man that ever lived ; his riches should be beyond all calculation ; his flocks covering the hUls and plains ; he should wash his hands in milk, while all would exalt him in the song, and mothers and children would call him blessed. When a period had elapsed sufficient to allow the messengers time to return, it was rumored through the town, that they had been mur- dered, a common event in those days. The gloom which this cast over the native mind, fonhed a striking contrast to the dazzhng rays pouring forth from an almost vertical sun blazing in a cloiidless sky. The heavens had been as brass, scarcely a cloud had been seen for months, even on the dis- tant horizon. Suddenly a shout was raised, and the whole to-vvn was in motion. The rain-maker was approaching. Every voice was raised to the highest pitch with acclama- tions of enthusiastic joy. He had sent a harbinger to an- nounce his approach, with peremptory orders for all the inhabitants to ■*ash their feet. Every one seemed to fly in swiftest obedience to the adjoining river. Noble and igno- ble, even the girl who attended to our kitchen fire, ran. Old and young ran. All the world could not have stopped them. By this time the clouds began to gather, and a crowd went out to welcome the mighty man who, as they imagined, was now collecting in the heavens his stores of rain. Just as he was descending the height into the town, the immense concourse danced and shouted, so that the very earth rang, and at the same time the lightnings darted, and the thunders roared in awful grandeur. A few heavy drops fell, which produced the most thrilling ecstacy on the de- luded multitude, whose shoutings baffled all description. Faith hung upon the lips of the impostor, 'While he proclaim- ed aloud that this year the women aiust cultivate gardens on the hills, and not in the valleys, for these would be deluged. After the din had somewhat subsided, a few indi- viduals came to otir dweUings to treat us and our doctrines 2J2 HIS popuLARirr. ' with derision. "Where is your God?" one asked with a sneer. We were silent, because the wicked were before us. " Have you not seen our Morimo ? Have you not beheld him cast from his arm his fiery spears, and rend the heavens? Have you not heard with your ears his voice in the clouds ?" adding with an interjection of supreme disgust, " You talk of Jehovah, and Jesus, what can they do ?" Never in my Ufe do I remember a text being brought home with such power as the words of the Psalmist ; " Be still, and know that I am God : I will be exalted among the heathen." Then truly the enemy came in as a flood, and it became us to take refuge in the Most High, to be enabled to hft up a standard against him. In conducting our evening service, my mind was powerfully directed to Psalm xcvii. 2, " Clouds and dark- ness are round about him," etc. It was natural for us to calculate on our already dark and devious course becoming more gloomy stiU, from the stormy ebullitions of minds inflated by the fictitious scenes which the magic powers of the rain-maker could paint with a masterly hand. He had before his singularly delightful, though clamorous reception among his new friends, been particularly informed of the character and objects of the Missionaries, which hisdisceming mind would soon discover stood in fearful opposition to his own. The rain-makers, as I have since had frequent opportunities of observing, were xnen of no common calibre, and it was the conviction of their natural superiority of genius, which emboldened them to lay the public mind prostrate before the reveries of their fancies. Being foreigners, they generally ampUfied prodigiously on their former feats. The present one, as has been noticed, was above the common order. He kept the chiefs and no- bles gazing on him with silent amazement, while the demon of mendacity enriched his themes with lively imagery, mak- ing them fancy they saw their corn-fields floating in the breeze, and their flocks and herds return lowing honie wards by noonday from the abundance of pasture He had in his wrath desolated the cities of the enemies of his people, by stretching forth his hand, and commanding the clouds to burst upon them. He had arrested the progress of a power- ful army, by causing a flood to descend, which formed a mighty river, and arrested their course. These and many other pretended supernatural displays of his power were received as sober truths. The report of his fame spread like wild-fire, and the chiefs of the neighbouring tribes came to pay him hoinage. We scarcely knew whether to expect HIS CRAFTINESS. 213 from him open hostility, secret machinations, or professed friendship. He, like aU of his profession, was a thinking and calculating soul, in the hahit of studying human nature, af- fable, engaging, with an acute eye, and exhibiting a dignity of mien, with an ample share of self esteerh, which, not- withstanding all his obsequiousness, he could not hide. He waited upon us, and it was well ; for though we wished at all times to become aU things to all men, he would have grown old before we could have constrained ourselves to pay court to one, who, under the influence of the great enemy of souls, had reached the very pinnacle of fame. He found we were men of peace, and would not quarrel. For the sake of obtaining a small piece of tobacco, he would occa- sionally pay us a visit, and even enter the place of worship. He was also studious not to give offence, whUe in the course • of conversation, he would give a feeble assent to our views, as to the sources of that element, pver which he pretended to have a sovereign control. He said he was poor, and this fact to thinking minds, would have proved that his successful achievements must have been either gratuitous or ill re- warded. When I put a question on the subject to one of his admirers, in order to excite suspicion, the reply was, " The Bahurutsis," the people from whom he came, " are stingy ; they never reward people for their services." It might be briefly noticed that in order to carry on the fraud, he would when clouds appeared order the women neither to plant nor sow, lest they should be scared away. He w^ould also require them to go to the fields, and gather certain roots and herbs, with which he might light what ap- peared to the natives rriysterious fires. Elate with hope, they would go in crowds to the hiUs and dales, herborize, and return to the town with songs, and lay their gatherings at his feet. With these he would sometimes proceed to cer- tain hills, and raise smoke ; gladly would he have raised the wind also, if he could have done so, well knowing that the latter is frequently the precursor of rain. He would select the time of new and full moon for his purpose, aware that at those seasons there was frequently a change in the at- mosphere. It was often a matter of speculation with me whether such men had not the fullest conviction in their own minds that they were gulling the public ; and opportunities have been afforded which convinced me, that my suspicions were well groimded. I ihet one among the Barolongs, who, from some service I had done him, thought me very kind, and, before he knew my character, became very intimate 214 KAIN CHDENED OUT OF A SACK, He had derived benefit from some of my medicines, and consequently viewed me as a doctor and one of his own fra- ternity. In reply to some of my remarks, he said, " It is only wise men who can be rain-makers, for it requires very great wisdom to deceive so many ;" adding, " you and I know that." At the same time he gave me a broad hint that I must not remain there, lest I should interfere with his field of labour. The rain-maker found the clouds in our country rather harder to manage than those he had left. He complained that secret rogues were disobeying his proclamations. When urged to make repeated trials, he wapld reply, " You only give me sheep and goats to killj therefore I can only make goat-rain ; give me fat slaughter oxen, and I shall let you see ox-rain." One day, as he was taking a sound sleep, a shower fell, on which one of the principal men entered his house to congratulate him, but to his utter amazement found him totally insensible to what was transpiring. " Hela ka rare, (Halloo, by my father,) I thought you were making rain," said the intruder, when, arising from his slumbers, and seeing his wife sitting on the floor shaking, a milk-sack in order to obtain a little butter to anoint her hair, he replied, pointing to the operation of churning, " Do you not see my wife churning rain as fast as she can 'I" This reply gave en- tire satisfaction, and it presently spread through the length and breadth of the town, that the rain-maker had churned the shower out of a milk-sack. The moisture caused by this shower was dried up by a scorching sun, and many long weeks followed without a single cloud, and when these did appear they might sometimes be seen, to the great mortifi- cation of the conjurer, to discharge their watery treasures at an immense distance. This disappointment was increased when a heavy cloud would pass over with tremendous thun- der, but not one drop of rain. There had been several suc- cessive years of drought, during which water~had not been seen to flow upon the ground ; and in that climate, if rain does not fall continuously and in considerable quantities, it is all exhaled in a couple of hours. In digging graves we have found the earth as dry as dust at four or five feet depth, when the surface was saturated with rain. The women had cultivated extensive fields, but the seed was lying in the soil as it had been thrown from the hand ; the cattle were dying from want of pasture, and hundreds of Uving skeletons were seen going to the fields in quest of unwholesome roots and reptiles, while many were dying TREK STRUCK BY LIGHTNING. 215 with hunger. Our sheep, as before stated, were soon hkely to be all devoured, and finding their number daily diminish, we slaughtered the remainder and put the meat in salt, which of course was far from being agreeable in such a climate, and where Vegetables were so scarce. All these circurnstances irritated the rain-maker very much ; but he was often puzzled to find something on which to lay the blame, for he had exhausted his skill. One night, a small cloud passed over, and the only flash of lightning, from -Which a heavy peal of thunder burst, struck a tree in the town. Next day the rain-maker and a number of people assembled to perform the usual ceremony on such an event. It was ascended, and rbpeS of grass and grass roots were bound round different parts of the trunk, which in th^ Acacia giraffe is seldom much injured. A hmb may be torn off, but of numerous trees of that species which I have seen struck by lightning, the trunk appears to resist its power, as the fluid produces only a stripe or groove along the bark to the ground. AVhen these bandages were made he depo- sited some of his nostrums, and got quantities of water handed up, vi'hich he poured with great solemnity on the wounded tree, while the assembled multitude shouted " Puta, pula." This done, the tree was hewn down, drag- ged out of the town, and burned to ashes. Soon after this unmeaning ^ceremony, he got large bowls of water, with which was mingled an infusion of bulbs All the men of the town then came together, and passed in .succession be- fore him, when he sprinkled each with a zebra's tail, which he dipped in the water. As all this and much more did not succeed^ he had recourse to another stratagem. He knew well that baboons were nol^^ery easily caught among the rocky glens and shelving precipices, therefore, in order to gain time, he informed the men that, to make rain, he must have a baboon; that the animal must be without a blemish, not a hair was to be wanting on its body. One would have thought any simpleton might have seen through his tricks, as their being able to present him with a baboon in that state was impossible, even though they caught him asleep. F«>rth sallied a band of chosen runners, who ascended the neighbouring mountains. The baboons from their lofty domiciles had been in the habit of looking down on the plain beneath at the natives encircling, and pursuing the quaggas \ and anteldpes; little dreaming that one day they would ' themselves be objects of pursuit. They hobbled off in con- 216 sternation, grunting and screaming and leaping from rock to rock, occasionally looking down on their pursuers, grinning and gnashing their teeth. After a long pursuit with wounded limbs, scratched bodies, and broken toes, a young one was secured and brought to the town, the captors exulting as if they had obtained a great spoil. The wily rogue, on seeing the animal, put on a countenance exhibiting the most intense sorrow, exclaiming, "My heart is rent in pieces; I am dumb with grief;" and pointing to the ear of the baboon, which was scratched, and the tail, which had lost some hairs, added, " Did I not tell you I could not make rain if there was one hair wanting ?" After some days another was obtained ; but there was still some imperfection, real or alleged. He had often said, that, if they would procure him the heart of a Hon, he would show them he could make rain so abundant, that a man might think himself well off to be under shelter, as when it fell it might sweep whole towns away. He had discovered that the clouds required strong medicine, and that a Uon's heart would do the business. To obtain this, the rain-maker weU. knew was no joke. One day it was announced that a lion had attacked one of the cattle outposts, not far from the town, and a party set off for the twofold purpose of getting a key to the clouds and disposing of a dangerous enemy. The orders were impera- tive, whatever the consequences might be, which, in this instance, might have been very serious, had not one of our men shot the terrific animal dead with a gun. This was no sooner done than it was cut up for roasting and boiling ; no matter if it had previously eaten some of their relations, they ate it in its turn. Nothing could exceed thejir enthu- siasm when they returned to the town, bearing the lion's heart, and singing the conqueror's song in full chorus; the rain-maker prepared his medicines, kindled his fires, and might be seen upon the top of the hill, stretching forth his puny hands, and beckoning the clouds to draw near, or even shaking his spear, and threatening that if they disobeyed, they should feel his ire. The deluded populace behaved aU this, and wondered the rains would not fall. Asking an experienced and judicious man, the king's uncle, how it was that so great an operator on the clouds could not succeed, " Ah," he rephed, with apparent feeling, « there is a cause for the hardheartedness of the clouds if the rain-maker could only find it out." A scrutinizing watch was kept up on every thing done by the missionaries. Some weeks after A GRAND DISCOVERY. 217 my return from a visit to Griqua Town, a grand discovery ■was made, that the rain had been prevented by my bringing a bag of salt from that place in my wagon. The charge was made by the king and his attendants, with great gravity and form. As giving the least offence by laughing at their puerile actions, ought always to be avoided when dealing with a people who are sincere, though deluded, the case was on my part investigated with more than usual solemnity. Mothibi and his aid-de-camp accompanied me to the store- house, where the identical bag stood. It was open, with the white contents full in view. " There it is," he exclaimed, with an air of satisfaction. But finding, on examination, that the reported salt was only white clay or chalk, they could not help laughing at their own credulity. We fearlessly pointed out to them their delusion, and our only wonder was that we had not been accused before ; we had occasionally heard whisperings that we were not guilt- less of the great drought. We tried both in public and in private conversation to impress them with the sublime truths of creation, providence, and redemption, but the universal reply was, " maka hela," only lies. In a conversation with Mothibi, the rain-maker, and a few others, I remarked, in reference to some insinuations, that I should with great plea- sure meet him before an assembly of the people, and discuss the subject. To this he at first consented, but soon after- wards retracted, for this reason, that the- subject which we should have to discuss, was far too high for the people, being what only rain-makers and philosophers could talk about. We consoled ourselves with the hope that there was no pro- bability of our being implicated, as our few cows as well as theirs were dying, and we were without a drop of milk. Nothing could exceed the artfulness with which he carried on the game ; he said the Bushmen had cut down certain bushes behind the hiUs, and he advised an extirpating com- mando to go against them. This was overruled. He then discovered that a corpse, which had been put into the ground some weeks before, had not received enough water at its burial. He knew the horror the Bechuanas had at the idea of touching a putrid body, and he thought he would fix them, and made it known that the body must be taken up, washed, and re-interred. He supposed they would not do this, but he was mistaken ; the ceremony, horrible as it must have been, was performed, but the sky remained cloudless stiU. The people at last became impatient, and poured forth their curses against brother Hamilton and myself, as the 19 218 THE RAIN-MAKER BEGINS TO DESPAIR. cause of all their sorrows. Our bellj whicli was rung for public worship, they said, frightened the clouds ] our prayers came in also for a share of the blame. " Don't you," said the chief rather fiercely to me, "bow down in your houses, and pray and talk to something bad in the ground?" A council was held, and restrictions were to be laid on all our actions. We refused compliance, urging that the spot on which the mission premises stood, had been, given to th» missionaries. The rain-maker appeared to avoid accusing us openly ; he felt some sense of obligation, his wife having experienced . that my medicines and mode of bleeding did her more good than all his nostrums. He would occasion- ally visit our humble dwellings, and when I happened to be in the smith's shop, he would look on most intently when he saw a piece of iron welded, or an instrument made, and teU me privately he wished I were living among his people, assuring me that there was plenty of timber and iron there. One day he came and sat down, with a face somewhat elongated, and evincing inward dissatisfaction. On making inquiry, I found, as I had heard whispered the day before, that all was not right ; the pubUc voice was sounding omi- nous in his ears. He inquired how the women were in our country ; and supposing he wished to know what they were like, I pointed him to my wife, adding, that there were some taller, and some shorter than she was. " That is not what I mean," he rephed ; " I want to know what part they take in pubhc affairs, and how they act when they do so." 1 re- phed, " that when the women of my country had occasion to take an active part in any pubUc affairs, they carried aU before them ;" adding, in a jocose strain, " wait tiU we mis- sionaries get the women on our side, as they now are on yours, and there will be no more rain-makers in the coun- try." At this remark he looked at me as if I had just risen out of the earth. " May that time never arrive !" he cried, with a countenance expressive of unusual anxiety. I re- plied, " that time would assuredly come, for Jehovah, the mighty God, had spoken it," He was evidently chagrined, for he had come for advice. " What am I to do ?" he in- quired ; " I wish aU the women were men ; I can get on with the men, but I cannot manage the women." I viewed this as a delicate moment, and, feeling the need of caution, lephed, " that the women had just cause to complain ; he had promised them rain, but the land was dust, their gar- dens burned up, and were I a woman, I would complain as loudly as any of them." To his inquiry, " What am I to ■A. GRAVE CHASGE. 219 do to pacify th^m ?" I recommended him to be an lionest man, and confess that he had been misleading himself as well as the public. " They will kill me," he said. I re- peated my advice, " Be honest," adding, that if he were in any danger, we woidd do what we could to save him. He arose, and retired with a sorrowful countenance, leaving Mr. Hamilton and myself to draw our own conclusions. Of one thing we were persuaded, that a storm was gathering, not such a one, however, as would cover the hills and valleys with verdure, and the fields with com, but one which might sweep away the desire of our hearts, in breaking up the mis- sion. At such seasons we were enabled by faith to realize the consoling assurance, " The Lord of hosts is with us j the God of Jacob is our refuge." The rain-maker kept himself very secluded for a fortnight, and, after cogitating how he coidd make his own cause good, he appeared in the pubhc fold, and proclaimed that he had discovered the cause of the drought. All were now eagerly Ustening ; he dilated some time, till he had raised their ex- pectation to the highest pitch, when he revealed the mys- tery. " Do you not see, when clouds come over us, that Hamilton and Moffat look at them 1" This question receiw ing a hearty and unanimous aiHrmation, he added, that our white faces frightened away the clouds, and they need not expect rain so long as we were in the country. This was a home-stroke, and it was an easy matter for us to calculate what the influence of such a charge would be on the public mind. We were very soon informed of the evil of our con- duct, to which we pleaded guilty, promising, that as we were not aware that we were doing wrong, being as anxious as any of them for rain, we would willingly look to our chins, or the ground, all the day long, if it would serve their pur- pose. It was rather remarkable, that much as they admir- ed my long black beard, they thought that in this case it was most to blame. However, this season of trial passed over, to our great comfort, though it was followed for some time with many indications of suspicion and distrust. Shortly after, we accidentally heard that some one was to be speared. Violent as the natives some times were against us, we did not suspect injury was intended to ourselves. Wa imagined it was the poor rain-maker, and though we feK anxious by any means to save his hfe, the great difEculty was to find out whether he was to he the victim ; for thoi^g^ we had several of their people about us, and their couneil chamber was in the open air exposed to the vulgar, it was a 220 THE EAIN-MAKER CONDEMNED. difficult matter to discover secrets of that description. Anx- ious to save life, whicli the Bechuanas wiU sometimes allow to be redeemed, it occurred to me that a very simple strata- gem: might unveil the mystery ; I knew an individual of in- fluence who was likely to know the afiair. She was often ailing, and, like all the natives, fond of medicines, for among such a people a doctor is always welcome, especially if he asks no fee. My inquiries about the state of her health, and the expression of sympathy, were most acceptable, and the moment I saw her well pleased, I asked, as if it were a weU- known fact, " Why are they thinking of killing the rain- maker ? they surely do not intend to eat him. Why not let the poor man go to his own land ?" She very abruptly ask- ed, " Who told you ?" Rising, I said, " that is all 1 want to know ;" when she called out after me, " Do not teU that I told you, or they will kill me." I entered the public fold, where about thirty of the principal men sat in secret coun- cil ; it was a coxmcil of death. Had I put the question whe- ther they really intended to commit that deed, they would have gazed on me with utter amazement, that I should have harboured such a suspicion, and have sworn, by aU their forefathers that ever lived, that they had no such intention. I asked no question, but charged them with the fact, point- ing out the magnitude of the crime of adding sin to sin, thus provoking Jehovah, by placing a man on His throne, and then killing him, because he was unable to do M'hat they wished him to perform. I then pleaded hard that his life might be spared, and he allowed to return to his own coun- try in peace. A weU-known old man arose, in a state of ■ great rage, quivering his spear, and, adverting to the exces- sive drought, the lean herds, the dying people, and the cattle which the rain-maker had eaten, vowed that he would plunge that spear into the rain-maker's heart, and asked who was to hinder him. I said I should, with my entreaties, and if these would not do, I should offer a ransom to save his life. I was asked if I was not aware that he was our enemy, and that if he had had his will we should have been dead. They had often thought us very sUly and wealc-minded, to persist in telling them the same thing so often about " one Jesus;" but now to see a man labour to save the Hfe of his enemy, was what they could not comprehend. His life was spa:red, however, and Mothibi, after conducting him over the plain towards the Matluarin River, returned, and enter- ed our house with a smile of the most entire satisfaction on his countenance, perfectly sensible of his meritorious conduct, PROSPECTS BECOME DARKER. 22 X and expecting congratulations, whicli were liberally, and we thought deservedly, bestowed. Thus endeH, among the Batlapis, the career of a notable rain-maker, whom I shall have occasion to notice in my visit to the Bauangketsi nation, where he was eventually murder- ed. It is a remarkable fact, that a rain-maker seldom dies a natural death. I have known some, and heard of many, who had, by one means or other, fallen a prey to the fury of their disappointed employers, .but notwithstanding this, there was no want of successors. There is not one tribe who have not imbrued their hands in the blood of these impostors, whom they first adore, then curse, and lastly destroy. CHAPTER XX. Although we were thus delivered from the machinations of one who, as we afterwards learned, was an active, though covert, enemy to our influence among the people, and though his removal afibrded us the sincerest gratification, the public mind was opposed to our residence in the country, pvery change appeared for the worse ; and as we proceeded with our work, our prospects became darker than ever. The Bushmen had been very troublesome in taking cattle and killing the watchers. We could not approve of the Bechu- ana system of vengeance and extirpation, which, instead of diminishing the evil, appeared only to add fuel to the fire of their fierce passions. We were suspected of befriending that hapless race of beings, from charging our men, who sometimes went to assist in retaking cattle, on no accoimt to shoot the Bushmen. It was in vain we appealed to the in- junctions of Jesus, our Lord and Master: every argument of that description was always met with vehemently sa-vage vociferations of " Maka h^la," Ues only. They candidly ac- knowledged that we wronged no man, and that we had no wish to inflict an injury on a single individual ; but they would with equal candour tell us, that we were the cause of all the drought ; and we have been more than once asked if we were not afraid of lying down in our beds, lest we 19* 222 A rayms crisis. and our reed-built houses should be burned to ashes before morning. Every thing wrong done by a Griqua while hunting in the country, was thrown in our teeth ; and if any one of the natives felt himself aggrieved during a visit to that people, we were told that we ought to have prevented it. The im- proper conduct of some professors who came to hunt and bajrter, as in the first instance when the mission was com- menced, was held up to us as the fruits of the Gospel, and ■they would tell us to go to certain people, and make them good, before attempting the renovation of the Bechuana na- tion. We became inured to such threatening reproaches and scorn ; but many were the melancholy hours we spent in gloomy forebodings. Much gratitude is, however, due to Him who " restraineth his rough wind in the day of his east wind," that we were never allowed to suspect that they would do us any personal violence. The following fact wiU illustrate, in some measure, the position in whicfewe stood with the people, who, by this time, were chafed in spirit by the severe drought, and mortified to the highest degree to see all their boasted powers vanish like a vapour on the mountain's brow. One day, about noon, a chief man, and a dozen of his attendants, came and seated themselves under the shadow of a large tree, near my house. A secret council had been held, as is usual, in the field, under pretence of a hunt, and the present party was a deputation to apprise us of the results. I happened at that moment to be engaged in repairing my wagon near at hand. Being in- formed that something of importance was to be communi- cated, Mr. Hamilton was called. We stood patiently to hear the message, being always ready to face the worst. The principal speaker informed us, that it was the determination of the chiefs of the people that we should leave the country; and referring to our disregard of threatenings, added what was tantamount to the assurance that measures of a violent kind would be resorted to, to carry their resolutions into efiect, in case of our disobeying the order. While the chief was speaking, he stood in a rather imposing, I could not say threatening, attitude, quivering his spear in his right hand. Mrs. M. was at the door of our cottage, with the babe in her arms, watching the crisis, for such it was. We replied " We have indeed felt most reluctant to leave, and are now more than ever resolved to abide by our post. We pity vou for you know not what you do ; we have sufiered, it is true ■ and He whose servants we are has directed us in His word' THE SEASONS CHANGED. 223 ' when they persecute you in one city, flee ye to another ;' but although we have suffered, we do not consider all that has been done to us by the people amounts to persecution ; we are prepared to expect it from such as know no better. If you are resolved to rid yourselves of us, you must resort to stronger measures, for our hearts are with you. You may shed blood or burn us out. We know you will not touch our wives and children. Then shall they who sent us know, and God who now sees and hears what we do, shall know, that we have been persecuted indeed." At these words the chief man looked at his companions, remarking, with a sig- nificant shake of the head, " These men must have ten lives, when they are so fearless of death ; there must be something in immortahty." The meeting broke up, and they left us, no doubt fully impressed with the idea that we were impracticable men. We could not help feeling deeply thankful for the turn this short, but solemn interview, had taken. The charge brought against us by the rain-maker was, by every passing cloud and whistling blast from the torrid zone, brought fresh to their minds ; and they thought that, having teachers of strange doctrines among them, such as their forefathers never knew, the country would be burned up. They were wont to tell us of the floods of ancient times, the incessant show- ers which clothed the very rocks with verdure, and the giant trees and forests which once studded the brows of the Ham- hana hills and neighbouring plains. They boasted of the Kuruman and other rivers, with their impassable torrents, in which the hippopotami played, while the lowing herds Walked to their necks in grass, filling their makukas (nulk sacks) with milk, making every heart to sing for joy. It was in vain that we endeavoured to convince them that the dry seasons had commenced at a period long anterior to the arrival of the missionaries. Independent of this fact being handed down by their forefathers, they had before their eyes the fragments of more fruitful years in the immense number of stumps and roots of enormous trunks of acacia giraffe, when now scarcely one is to be seen raising its stately head above the shrubs ; while the sloping sides of hills, and the ancient beds of rivers, plainly evinced that they were de- nuded of the herbage which once clothed their surface. In- deed, the whole country north of the Orange River lying east of the Kalagare desert, presented to the eye of an European something like an old neglected garden or field. As, however, the natives never philosophized oA atmospheri); 224 INDICATIONS OP FORMER LUXURIANCE. changes, and the probable causes of the failure of the plen- teous years, they were not likely to be convinced such could depend on any thing done by man, even though they were credulous enough to believe that their rain-makers could charm or frighten the clouds into showers, or that our faces or prayers could prevent their descending. When reference has been made to certain trees, especially the MUkwood, {sideroxylum inerme,) and a few shrubs which they prohibit being touched with a knife or an axe when the rain is expected, I have embraced the opportunity of trying to convince the more intelligent, that they themselves were the active agents of bringing about an entire change of at- mosphere. The Bechuanas, especially the Batlapis and the neighbouring tribes, are a nation of levellers — not reducing hills to comparative plains, for the sake of building their towns, but cutting down every species of timber, without regard to scenery or economy. Houses are chiefly composed of small timber, and their fences of branches and shrubs. Thus when they fix on a site for a town, their first conside- ration is to be as near a thicket as possible. The whole is presently levelled, leaving only a few trees, one in each great man's fold, to afibrd shelter Irom the, heat, and under which the men work and recline. The ground to be occupied for cultivation is the next ob- ject of attention ; the large trees being too hard for their iron axes, they bum them down by keeping up a fire at the root. These supply them with feanches for fences, while the sparrows, sd destructive to their grain, are thus deprived of an asylum. These fences, as well as those in the towns, require constant repairs, and indeed the former must be re- newed every year, and by this means the country for many miles around becomes entirely cleared of timber ; while in the more sequestered spots, where they have their out-posts, the sam.e work of destruction goes on. Thus, of whole forests where the giraffe and elephant were wont to seek their daily food, nothing remains. When the natives remove from that district, which may be after only a few years, the minor species of the acacia soon grows, but the acacia giraffe requires an age to become a tree, and many ages must pass before they attain the di- mensions of their predecessors. The wood, when old, is a dark red, rough grained, and exceedingly hard and heavy : after being dried for years, when thrown into the water it sinks like lead. In the course of my journeys I have met with trunks of enormous size, which, if the time were calcu- DIMINUTION OF FOUNTAINS. 225 lated necjessary for their growth, as well as their decay, lOne might be led to conclude that they sprung up iaimediately after the flood, if not before it. The natives have also the yearly custom of burning the dry grass, which on some oc- casions destroys shriibs and trees even to the very summit of the' mountains. To this system of extermination may be at- tributed the long succession of dry seasons. " The feUing of forests has been attended in many countries by a, diminution of rain, as in Barbadoes and Jamaica.* For in tropical countries, where the quantity of aqueous vapour in the at- mosphere is great, but where, on the other hand, the direct rays of the sun are most powerful, any impediment to the free circulation of air, or any screen which shades the earth from the solar rays, becomes a source of humidity ; and whenever dampness or cold have begim to be generated by such causes, the condensation of vapour continues. The leaves, moreover, of all plants are alembics, and some of those in the torrid zone have the remarkable property of distilling water, thus contributing to prevent the earth from being parched up."t This was a philosophy which the more acute thinkers among the people could partially compre- hend, though they could not beheve. I do not, however, despair of eventually seeing the whole of the population, some of whom are now commencing the building of stone fences and brick houses, so fully satisfied on this point that they wlU. find it for their own interest, as well as contributing to the beauty of the country to encourage the growth of timber, particularly as it is only such as is indigenous which can grow to any extent. To the same cause may be traced the diminution of fountains, and the entire failure of some which formerly afforded a copious supply, such as Griqua Town, Campbell, and a great number of others which might be mentioned ; and which, according to the estab- lished theory of springs, must be supplied by melted snow, rain, dew, and vapours condensed. It has been remarked, that since the accidental destruction of whole pleiins of the Olea similis (wild oUve) by fire, near Griqua Town, as well as the diminishing of large shrubs on the neighbouring heights, a gradual decrease of rain has succeeded in that region, and thus the subterranean caverns found to serve as reservoirs in the bowels of the earth cease to be supplied, especially when there are no lofty mountains to pierce the clouds, or arrest and condense vapours which float in the atmosphere. • PhU. Trans. voL ii. p. 264. .- • ♦ Lyell's Piin. Geo, 226 INSTINCT or amimals. The climate in the countries from the borders o! the colony to 25° north latitude, and to 24° east longitude, is very similar. The winds which prevail, especially in the higher regions, are from the west and north-east. _ Cold, withering winds frequently blow from the south during the winter months, in which rain rarely falls, and never with a south wind. In spri»g, (the end of August,) the north gales commence, and blow daily, with great violence, from about 10 A. M., to nearly sunset, when a still, serene night succeeds. During the prevalence of these winds, which continue till November, when the air becomes modified by thunder- storms, the atmosphere appears as if dense with smoke, reaching as high as the clouds; this appearance is occa- sioned by the light particles of dust brought from the sandy plains of the Kalagare desert, which is so exquisitely fine, that it. penetrates seams and cracks which are almost imper- vious to water. These winds may, with great propriety, be styled sandy monsoons. They are so dry, as to affect the skin very disagreeably ; and the process of exsiccation goes on rapidly, producing in the human frame extreme languor, and febrile symptoms, especially with those of a delicate constitution, who, though the morning may be perfectly serene, have in themselves indications of approaching wind for hours before it rises. Towards the latter end of the windy season, the thirsty cattle may frequently be seen turn- ing their heads northward to smiffthe aqueous blast, as their instinctive powers catch the scent of the green herbage which is brought from the tropical regions. When this is the case, there is reason to hope that clouds wiU soon make their appearance from the opposite quarter. The wind is rarely from the east ; and when it is, we expect rain, which vidU sometimes continue for days, and is what we denomi- nate land-rains, being without thunder. The instinct of cattle under these circumstances is very remarkable, and sometimes leads to serious consequences. I have known these animals, after having travelled nearly 200 miles from their country, when passing through one more sterile and dry, eagerly snufi" the odoriferous gale blowing from the luxuriant plains they had left, and start off in a straight line to the place from whence they had come. Many years previous to my sojourn in Namaqua-land, Africaner lost the greater part of his cattle from this cause. One evening a strong wind commenced blowing from the north ; it smelt of green grass, as the natives expressed it. The cattle, not beijag in folds, started off after dark. The ATMOSPHERIC PHENOMENA. 227 circumstance being unprecedented, it was supposed they had merely "wandered out to the common where they were accustomed to graze ; but it was found, after much search, that some thousands of cattle had directed their course to the north. A few were recovered, but the majority escaped to the Damara country, after having been pursued hundreds of miles. This instinct directs the migrations of the ante- lope and the wild ass used to the wilderness, that snuffeth up the wind at her pleasure. Jer. ii. 24. These winds, I have learned from inquiry, come from within the tropics, where rain has fallfen, and the cool air thereby produced, rushes southward over the pflains, filling up the space caused by the rarefaction of the air, owing to the approach of the sun to the tropic of Capricorn. The more boisterous these winds are, the more reason we have to expect rain. They cannot extend to any great height, as the thunder-storms which follow, and which often commence with a small cloud in the opposite direction, increasing into mountains of snow, with a tinge of yellow, pursue an opposite course. These are preceded by a dead stillness, which continues till the tornado biu-sts upon us with awful violence, and the clouds have discharged their watery treasures. In such a case there are almost always two strata^of clouds, frequently moving in opposite directions. The higher mountain-like masses, with their edges exactly defined, going one way, while the feelers, or loose misty vapour beneath, convulsed, and rolling in fearful velocity, are going another ; while the peals of thunder are siich as to make the Very earth tremble. The lightning is of three descriptions, one kind passing from cloud to cloud ; this is seldom accompanied with any rain. Another kind is the forked, which may be seen passing through a cloud, and striking the earth; this is considered the most dangerous. The most common, not always ac- companied by rain, is what we are in the habit of calling stream or chain-Ughtning. This appears to rise from the earth, in figures of various shapes, crooked, zigzag, and oblique ; and sometimes like a water-spout at sea ; it con- tinues several seconds, while the observer can distinctly see it dissolve in pieces like a broken chain. The perpetual roar of awful thunder on these occasions may be conceived, when twenty or more of these flashes naay be counted in one minute. The lightning may also be seen passing upwards through the dense mass of vaipour, and branching out lik^ the hmbs of a naked tree iii the blue sky above. In such Btonns the rain frequsnUy falls in totrents, and runs off very 228 DESCRIPTIONS OP THUNDER STORMS. rapidly, not moistening the earth, except in sandy plains, more than six inches deep. These storms are frequently very destructive, though not attended with that loss of Hfe common in more populous countries. People are killed, especially such as take refuge under trees ; houses are struck, when, in general, some, if not all, the inmates perish. Game are frequently killed hy it, and I have known about fifty head of cattle levelled on the spot. Though persons do become so far accustomed to these fearful diplays of Almighty power as even to long for them, because they bring rain, yet they frequently produce great terror, especially among the lower orders of the ani- mal creation. The antelopes flee in consternation ; and I have had opportunities of observing the Balala (poor Be- chuanas) start off early on the morning following such a storm, in quest of the young which have been cast through terror : thus illustrating the words of the psalmist, as render- ed in our English translation, " The voice of the Lord caus- eth the hinds to calve,"* or somewhat clearer, as in the Dutch, " cast their young." WhUe on the subject of thunder, it may be proper to ob- serve, that we have in those latitudes what the natives call serumairi, (serumaeeree,) which is thunder without clouds. I have frequently heard it during my long abode in the "coun- try, and once in a position where no clouds could be seen for fifty or sixty miles round, even on the most distant horizon, for many weeks ; indeed, it may be said to be heard only when there are no clouds whatever to be seen. When it does occur, vvrhich is not often, it is after the sun has passed the meridian, and when the day is hottest, with httle or no wind. The explosion appears to be in the clear blue sky ; and, though over our heads, the intonations are soft, and no- thing like lightning is to be seen. Among the varieties of meteorological phenomena, it might be here noticed, that explosions of substances occa- sionally take place, which generally strike awe into the hea- then, who are afraid of signs in the heavens. These occur after dry and sultry days. I never met, however, with a Mochuana who liad seen or heard of the faU of aerolites. The natives never appeared to have formed any idea of the causes which produce the phenomena of the heavens, such as ecUpses. The vague, though universal, notion prevails, when the moon is ecUpsed, that a great chief has died. They are directed by the position of certain stars in the hea- ♦ Psalm xxix. 9 BECHUANA NOTIONS OF THUNDER. 229 vens, that the time has amved, in the revolving year, when particular roots can be dug up for use, or when they may commence their labours of the field. This is their likhako- logo, (turnings or revolvings,) or what we should call the spring time of the year. The Pleiades they call selemela, which may be translated, cultivator, or the precursor of agri- culture, from lemela, the relative verb to cultivate for ;* and «e, a pronominal prefix, distinguishing them as the actors. Thus, when this constellation assumes a certain position in the heavens, it is the signal to commence cultivating their fields and gardens.! Thunder they supposed to be caused by a certain bird, which may be seen soaring very high dur- ing the storm, and which appeared to the natives as if it nestled among the forked lightnings. Some of these birds are. not unfrequently killed, and their having been seen to descend to the earth may have given rise to this ludicrous no- tion. I have never had an opportunity of examining this bird, but presume it belongs to the vulture species. JLeaving these subjects for the present, we turn again to the mission, which, while it suffered much from the presence oi the rain-maker, his absence did not appear to have pro- duced any change on the minds of the natives, except that of mortification. We could not help being sincerely thankful that there was no public prohibition made against attendance on divine worship ; therefore, generally, a few came, though some- times only such as were our dependents. A very large majority had never entered the chapel, being threatened by their superiors if they did ; and others would not for their lives have set a foot within the threshold. At an early period, when the place of worship was built, a wooden Dutch clock had been fixed upon the wall, for the purpose of regulating the hours of worship. Immediately above the dial was a small box, in which were a couple, of hlliputian soldiers, who strutted out when the clock struck. Conrad Buys, and others, had poisoned the minds of some of the • This peculiarity in the Sechuana language will be explained in the choipter on its character. -t Dr. Thomsj Winterbottom, in his account of the native Africans in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone, observes, in remarkable unison with this statement, that "the prober time for preparing the plantations is shown by the particular situation in the heavens of the Pleiades, called by the Bulloms, awarrang." In fact this notion prevails in almost all the nations of the interior of Africa with which we are acquainted, and forcibly illustrates the import of the interrogation, " Canst thou bind the sweet wfluences of Pleiades (spring) %" 20 230 THE CHAPEL CLOCK. leading men -with the idea, that the missionaries were only the precursors of the Government, who would soon follow in their train, and make soldiers of every one of them. The little images in the clock were soon magnified into Goliaths, and the place of worship looked upon as an eintlu ea kkolego, a house of bondage. It was necessary to take down the fairy-looking strangers, and cut a piece off their painted bodies, to convince the affrighted natives that the objects of their alarm were only bits of coloured wood. Many, how- ever, thought themselves too wise to be thus easily deceived. Though perfectly convinced of the egregrious foUy of be- lieving that the little liseio, " carved ones," would one day seize them by the throat in the sanctuary, they nevertheless continued to suspect, that the -m-otives of the missionary were anything but disinterested. CHAPTER XXI. For more than a year numerous and strange reports had at intervals reached us, some indeed of such a character as induced us to treat them as the reveries of a madman. It was said that a mighty woman, of the name of Mantatee, was at the head of an invincible army, numerous as the locusts, marching onward among the interior nations, carry- ing devastation and ruin wherever she went ; that she nourished the army with her own milk, sent out hornets before it, and, in one word, was laying the world desolate. Concluding that these might be only rumours of a destruc- tive war carrying on by Chaka, the tyrant of the Zoolus, and that he was at too great a distance from us to affect our operations, I resolved on a journey which I had been contemplating for some months. This was to visit Makaba, the chief of the Bauangketsi, a powerful tribe, situated upwards of two hundred mUes north-east of Lithako. I had various reasons for taking this step. The Batlapis, and the neighbouring tribes were living in constant dread of an attack froia so powerful an enemy, of whom they could j»ever speai without stigmatizmg him with the most t^pro- OPPOSITION TO THE AUTHOR* S JOURNEY. 231 brioTis epithets. It was desirable to open np a friendly intercourse to prevent hostilities, and it seemed advisable for me to attend more exclusively to the acquirement of the language, by associating, for awhUe, with the natives, when, at the same time, an opportunity was thus afforded of becoming better acquainted with the localities of the tribes, and, in addition to these objects, was the ultimate design of introducing the Gospel amorig that interesting people. About this time receiving an invitation from Maliaba, the path of duty was plain ; but Mothibi, and indeed all the people, were greatly opposed to my design. Every thing injiwious to the character of the Bauangketsi was raked up and placed before me. All the imaginary and real mur- ders Makaba had ever committed were set in array, and every one swore by their king and their fathers, that if I went my doom was fixed, for I should never return, and therefore Ma-Mary and the two children might leave and return to our friends in England, for she wotdd never see me again. We, with Mr. Hamilton, had dehberated to- gether, and prayed over the subject, and were not dismayed by their representations. When the day arrived for my de- parture, Mothibi, finding he could not prevail by arguments, positively forbade those under his control to accompany me. FeeHng no inclination to give up my intention, I started with such men as I had. On reaching Old Lithako, on the third day, I found the reports about the Mantatees somewhat revived, and the natives strongly advised me to proceed no farther than Nokaneng, about twenty miles distant. The reports being such as we had heard before, and knowing that they wished, by every means, to intimidate me, I proceeded on the following day, after having preached to a great num- ber of the natives. On arriving at Nokaneng, I found that rumours had reached that place that the Barolongs, at Ku- nuana, about one hundred miles off, had been also attacked, and the towns were in the hands of the marauders ; but as spies had been sent out to ascertain the truth, I remained, employing every opportunity afforded to impart instruction. The spies returning without having heard anything of the reported invaders, I proceeded, with my smaU company, towards the Bauangketsi tribes. After travelling four days over a dry and trackless part of the country, occasionally meeting with a few of the poor Bechuanas, we came to a fine valley, Mosite, in which were some pools, and plenty of game, especially the rhinoceros. Having shot one of these ponderous animals, we halted a day to prepare the meat, fey 232 TfiE HUNTED KHAMA. cutting it up into slices, and hanging it in the sun to dry. One would have been more than sufficient for our company"; and it was only at the urgent request of the poor people that a couple more were shot, as they very rarely succeed in killing such animals, except it be in a pit-fall. During our stay at this place a circumstance occurred which may throw some light on the habits of these people, and confirms the old adage, " that the one-half of the world does not know how the other half lives." It was at noon- day when a fine large hartebeest (khama of the Bechuanas,) the swiftest of the antelope species,* darted close past the wagon, and descended towards the extensive valley. Startled by so unusual an occurrence, one of the natives called out, " It is the wild dogs ;" and presently the whole pack made their appearance, following their leader, which was pursu- ing the antelope. We seized our guns to attack them as beasts of prey. The poor people who were sitting around their fl-esh-pots started up and followed, begging of us most earnestly not to kiU the wild dogs, for they were their pro- viders. We of course laid down our guns again, and directed our attention to the khama, which was soon overtaken and seized by the hind leg. It turned round to defend itself, and then started off till again seized by the wild dog. As we had in a measure retarded the speed of the pack, about thirty in number, the single dog was engaged baiting the khama looked round and gave a piteous howl for his com- panions to come to his assistance. When they overtook the poor animal they fell upon it with one accord, and instantly brought it to the ground. One of my men ran off in order to secure a piece of the skin of which he wanted to make shoes, but by the time he reached the spot, nothing remained but bones, and those well picked. These the poor people afterwards collected for the sake of the marrow. On farther inquiry, I found that these people are in the habit, when they see an antelope, or even an ostrich, pursued by the wild dogs, of endeavouring to frighten them away, that they may come in for a share of the prey. One of the men, with much feeUng for himself and companions, said, patting his hand * " The hartebeest is one of the finest animals of the antelope family ; it is fleet, and graceful in its gait. The male is about seven feet long, and five feet high, with handsome recurvated horns erowring from ap- proximated bases. The female is of a smaller size. The flesh is good, and bears a considerable resemblance to beef." — Pringle. There are im- mense herds of these animals in the interior, and generally of a larger size than the above. 233 on his stomach, " Oh, I am glad you did not shoot the dogs, for they often find us a meal." At another place the poor people were very glad, on the same account, that we had not kOled the lion, which had been trouhlesome to us during the night. These children of the desert very promptly described the manner of the wUd- dog chase, which I have since had opportunities of witness- ing. When the dogs approach a troop of antelopes, they se- lect one, no matter how it may mingle with others on the dusty plain ; the dog that starts never loses scent, or, if he does, it is soon discovered by the pack, which follow after, as they spread themselves the more readily to regain it. While the single dog who takes the lead has occasion to make an- gles in pursuit of his prey, the others, who hear his cry or short howl, avoid a circuitous course, and by this means easily come up again, when a fresh dog resumes the chase, and the other turns into the pack. In this way they relieve each other till they have caught the animal, which they rarely fail to accomphsh, though sometimes after a very long run. Should they in their course happen to pass other game much nearer than the one in pursuit, they take no notice of it. These dogs, of which there are two species, never at- tack man, but are very destructive to sheep and goats, and even to cows, when they come in their way. While these things were going on we were on the alert, and made inquiries of every stranger we met about the in- vaders, but could learn nothing, although we were not more than fifteen imles from the town, of which it was reported the enemy were in possession. We saw, on a distant height, some men who were evidently looking our way, and their not appro^hing our wagons was so unusual with hungry na- tives, tiiatiWe thought they must be strangers from a great distance, or some of the Mantatees. Two days passed over, and on the next, when we were about to start for the Bauang- ketsi, two Barolongs passing by, informed us of the fact that the Mantatees were in possession of the town, which lay rather in our rear, behind some heights, which we distinctly saw. As one of these men had narrowly escaped with his life in the conflict with that people, no doubt was left in our minds as to the propriety of returning immediately to the place whence we had come, particularly as there was a pro- bability that our course might be intercepted, some prisoners who had escaped having reported that the enemy were about to start for Lithako. We lost no time in returning to Noka- neng, and were met there by individuals who authenticated 20* 234 PEOCEED TO GKIQUA TOWN. my report to some thousands, who were pleasing themselves with the idea that there was no such enemy. When I ar- rived at our station the fearful news spread rapidly. A puh- lic meeting was convened, and the principal men met, to whom I gave a circumstantial account of all the information I had gathered respecting the character and progress of the Mantatees. That they were reaUy a numerous and power- ful hody, had destroyed many towns of the Bakone tribes, slaughtered immense numbers of people, laid Kurrechane in ruins, scattered the Barolongs, and, in addition, were said to be cannibals ! The alarming tidings produced at first a gloom on every countenance, and when T had finished speak- ing, a profound silence reigned for some minutes. Mothibi then replied in the name of the assembly, that he was ex- ceedingly thankful that I had been tlogo e iAaia, hard-headed, and pursued my journey, for, by so doing, I had discovered to them their danger. All were now ready to bless me for having taken my own way. They solicited counsel, but all I could give was to flee to the Colony, or call in the assistance of the Griquas, that as the Bechuanas were entirely unable to resist so nu- merous and savage a force as the Mantatees, I would pro- ceed instantly to Griqua Town, give information, convey their wishes, and obtain assistance and wagons to remove our goods from the station. Some proposed fleeing to the Kalagare desert, but from this I strongly dissuaded them, fearing that many would perish from want. As no time was to be lost, in the absence of horses, I proceeded with my wagon to Griqua Town, where I had the pleasure of meet- ing, at Mr. Melvill's house, George Thompson, Esq., of Cape Town, who was on a tour, and about to visit Lithako. As soon as the purpose of my embassy was communicated, Waterboer, the chief, started off for Campbell, on horseback, to confer with the people there, it being the opinion of the Griquas that if the enemy were to be resisted at all, it should be done at a distance. They promised to lose no time in coming to the Kuruman with a party, when further delibera- tions might be made. Next morning I returned, accompa- nied by Mr. Thompson, and many anxious minds were an- ticipating the result of my journey, the public mind being completely unhinged, although no fresh tidings had arrived respecting the objects of their terror. The resolution of the Griquas to meet the enemy at a distance, gave entire satis- faction. Orders were sent off to the different towns and vil- lages, and to the Batlaros, that a pitsho, or parliament, be DRESS OP THE SPEAKERS. 235 convened on the following day. As subjects of great na- tional interest were to be discussed, all were in motion early in the morning of June 13, 1823. About 10 a. m. the whole body of armed men, amounting to about 1000, came to the outskirts of the town, and returned again to the public fold or place of assembly, some singing war-songs, others en- gaged in mock-fights, with all the fantastic gestures which their wild imaginations could invent. The whole body took their seats, lining the fold, leaving an arena in the centre for the speakers. A few short extracts from some of the speeches will serve to show the manner in which these meetings are conducted. Although the whole exhibits a very grotesque scene, busi- ness is carried on with the most perfect order. There is but little cheering, and still less hissing, while every speaker fear- icssly speaks his own sentiments. The audience is seated on the ground, each man having before him his shield, to which b attached a number of spears. A quiver containing poisoned arrows is hung from the shoulder, and a battle-axe is held in file right hand. Many were adorned with tiger-skins, and taUs, and had flumes of feathers waving on their heads.* In the centre a sufficient space was left for the privileged, those ' It was natuni to expect that, however much the natives might cnntemu our doctrines, as being in direct opposition to their customs, and to the Insta of the flesh, they would, nevertheless, be led, for their own com&it and convenience, to adopt our plain and simple modes of dress. Though, strictly speaking, they were neither naked nor obsrene in their attire and manners, their dress, to say the least, was dis- gusting. Any thing like an infringement on the ancient garb of the na- tion, was looked on as a caricature of ours, and therefore it appeared in their eyes, what a man in this country would be with a lady's bonnet or cap destruction of human life would have been even more dread- ful, as they must have perished from want, when retreating through exasperated thous'ands of the tribes they had van- quished, towards their own country. Some of the Bechuanas were so sensible of this, that they secretly wished that it might be so, in order that they might satiate their vengeance on a conquered foe. Taking a review of these melancholy scenes, we cannot help startling at the dreadful effects of sin. What a train of miseries mark the chequered scenes of man's short life ; and how peculiarly appalling is the state of degradation to which that part of mankind is reduced, who inhabit the in- terior of Africa ! Imagining that annihilation is the common lot of man, the world is their god ; to acquire the few fleet- ing and sensual enjoyments it affords, they will endure any hardship, break through any tie, and with brutal enthusiasm tear the yet palpitating heart from the breast of their fallen enemy. Surely these facts are calculated to draw forth our compassion towards them. What a call for missionary ex- ertions ! for nothing but the word of inspiration can lead them from " these doleful shades of heathenish gloom." It may not be inappropriate here to introduce the follow- 250 CONCL0DINO REFLECTIONS. ing reflections, from the pens of other writers, who had an opportunity^ of perusing the whole of the author's jownals relative to this afffiir. After making some extracts from my communications to the Directors, the editor of the Mission- ary Transactions writes : " We cannot dismiss the above appalling details without making one or two observations. In the first place, the dreadful exhibition they pre- sent of the ferocious cruelty and base degradation to which the human race may be reduced, when destitute of the advantages of Christianity and civilization, affords a powerful argument for the prosecjjtion of mis- sionary undertakings, independently of all considerations relating to a future state; Our second observation is, that Christian missionaries are often instrumental in conferring important incidental benefits on the countries aijd vicinities where they labour. In the present case, a mis- sionary was the person who ascertained the approach of the invading tribes in time to procure help from Griqua Town ; and it was at his call that the Griquas gave their assistance. Had it been merely a message from a Bechuana chief, it is doubtful whether the Griquas would have moved until the enemy had approached their own borders. Again, had not the Griquas been previously brought into a comparatively civilized state by the influence of the missionaries who have resided among them, they would not have been in a condition to have resisted the enemy. This resistance was e;ffeetual, and appears, under Providence, to have saved the Town of NewXithako from the fate of Kurreechane, and the Bechuanas who inhabit it, whom, as we have seen, the invaders re- garded as dust under their feet, from destruction. Nor is it at all impro- bable that the colony is itself indebted, under Providence, to the same causes for the prevention of an extensive predatory inroad on its territory, by the invading tribes." On the same subject, the Revi Dr. Philip, in a letter to Mr. Campbell writes : " In reading over Mr. Moffat's journal, we cannot help noticing' with gratitude, the hand of God in all the circumstances connected with the deliverance of our missionary friends and the people of Lithako. Had Mr. M. not undertaken thejourney he proposed, he might have remained ignorant of the approach of the enemy ; or had he gone forward on his ]onrney without hearing of them, as he might have done in that country, Lithako must have fallen, and he himself, and the mission families, might have been involved in the same destruction; and had he been spared to return from his visit to Ma.kaba, one cannot contemplate him, even in imagination, standing on the ruins of Lithako, and treading on the ashes of his murdered wife and children, without shuddering with horror ! But the circumstances which indicate an invisible arm in the preservation of our friends, do not stop here. Had he delayed his journey, or had he deferred calling in the Griquas, whatever escape might have been pro- vided for him and our other missionary friends, Mothibi and his people would have been ruined. The influence of the missionaries upon them would in all probability have been lost, and their circumstances might have been rendered so desperate, as to preclude all hope of being of any service to them in future." In talcing leave of these appalling recitals, it only remains to be noticed, that the Mantatees, after finally leaving the REMOVAL OF STATION PROPOSED. 251 country, separated into two divisions. The one proceeded eastward, towards the Bakone country, while the other proceeded to that of the Basuto, from the eastern parts of which they had emigrated, or rather heen driven, hy the destructive inroads of the Zoolu, Matabele, and other tribes. Like many other pastoral people, when robbed of their cattle, they have nothing left ; and thus must either perish or rob others ; and from being wild men they become more like wild beasts. Oppression and hunger make a wise man mad in any country ; and when we follow the Mantatees in their long campaign of active warfare and bloodshed, we cease to wonder that habit rendered them fierce and fearless as the beasts of prey, among which they roamed. It is a deeply interesting fact, that a missionary is now labottring with success among the latter, conquering them with far other weapons than those which were found" necessary to arrest their devastating career at Old Lithako. CHAPTER XXIII. The events recorded in the preceding chapter were of so peculiar a character, and the cu-cumstances under which they took place so remarkable, that we were naturally led to anticipate a favourable change in the prospects of the mission. We had been but a short time at Griqua Town, w^hen all reports of farther invasion from the interior died away, the enemy having taken another route; and we accordingly retraced our steps to a spot, now in some mea- sure endeared to us. The people in general appeared to feel deeply sensible of the lively interest which the mission- aries had taken in their welfare, especially as they could not help seeing that it was not without much suffering and deprivation of cbnifort on our part. They could not bui wonder that we remained in the country, when lye mighjt have escaped to the colony with comparatively httle loss of property; and they did not hesitate to say this to ourselves, with evident admiration of our cOftduct. We had long deplored the luisuitable character of the spot on which we 252 OBJECTIONS TO THE PLAN. lived for a missionary station ; and owing to the succession of dry seasons, there was every prospect, from the diminu- tion of the fountain, of its becoming still more trying. All the buildings which had hitherto been raised were but temporary ; and the prospect of being left on a sandy plain without even drinking-water, not only prevented our erect- ing comfortable abodes, but determined us to embrace what appeared a favourable juncture for recommending a removal to a situation more eligible. A place eight miles distant, and about three miles below the Kuruman fountain, was examined, and appeared, from the locality, its proximity to the source of the river, from which a very large supply of water issued, to be a better spot for a missionary station than any other for hundreds of miles round. When this situation was first proposed to the. chiefs it was rejected, owing to the distance from trees and bushes, of which to make their houses and fences. In a former chapter, the disposition and habits of the people in this respect have been explained. Thecountiy around where we now lived had in its turn been denuded, and it was in vain that we tried to convince them that they could' not expect every advantage in one locality. We found it of no avail to point out to them the manner in which some of the interior tribes built their fences and folds with stone, and of which they had numer- ous examples before their eyes at Old Lithako, in the ruins of many cattle-folds, and fences on the hiUs.* Rather than gather or quarry stones to raise a substantial fence, a man would take a forked stick, a thong, and his axe, and occupy nearly a whole day in bringing from a distance a bundle of the hook-thorn (acacia) to fill up a gap in his cattle or sheep fold. Mothibi told us we might go and settle at Seuri (the island), the native name for the place, an island, being in the middle of an extensive valley of reeds, covered with water, because we should be a protection to his cattle from the Bushmen, who were troublesome in that quarter. * From these fences or walls, which, however, exhibit nothing like what is understood by masonry, but only stone dykes, the place derives its name, Lorako, a wall (of defence), Lithako (walls). They are sup- posed to have been built in the days of Tlou, the greatest of the Baro- long kings, whose power extended from the Bahurutsian mountains to the Hamhana hills, a distance of two hundred miles. The Batlapis were then an insignificant tribe, which rose to renown and influence, and threw off the yoke of one of the sons of Tlou, whose kingdom had been divided among his sons; and, owing to their wars and contentions for supremacy, the Barolong nation dwindled to a tribe, now scattered in various sections. THE AUTHOR VISITS CAPE TOWN. 253 As I had contemplated a journey to Cape Town, in order to obtain supplies, as well as on account of Mrs. M.'s health, which had suffered considerably, Mr. Hamilton and I were anxious to settle the subject of removal with the natives before I went, that the necessary preparations for so import- ant a measure might be made while at Cape Town. At our request Mothibi, two or three of his chiefs, with Peclu, his son and heir-apparent, accompanied us to the spot. After examination, it was agreed that about two miles of the valley, from the ford downward, should henceforth be the property of the London Missionary Society, and that for the same a remuneration should be given on my return from Cape Town, Having completed these arrangements, I proceeded thither with my family in October, 1823, leaving Mr. Hamilton alone on the station. As Mothibi was anx- ious that his son should see the country of the white people, he sent him with us, and appointed Taisho, one of his prin- cipal chiefs, to accompany him. The kind reception they met with from his Excellency the Governor, and the friends in Cape Town, and the sights they saw, produced strange emotions in their minds. They were delighted with every thing they beheld, and were in raptures when they met again their old friend George Thompson, Esq., who showed them no little kindness. It was with some difficulty that they were prevailed upon to go on board one of the ships in the bay; nor would they enter the boat till I had preceded them. They were perfectly astounded, when hoisted on deck, with the enormous size of the hull, and the height of the masts ; and when they saw a boy mount the rigging, and ascend to the very mast-head, they were speechless with amazement. Taisho whispered to the young prince, "A ga si khatla?" Is it not an ape? When they entered the splendid cabin, and looked into the deep hold, they could scarcely be convinced that the vessel was not resting on the bottom of the ocean. " Do these water houses (ships) unyoke like wagon-oxen every night ?" they inquired. " Do they graze in the sea to keep them alive ?" A ship in full sad approaching the roads, they were asked what they thought of that. " We have no' thoughts here ; we hope to think again when we get to the shore," was their reply. They would go anywhere with me or Mr. Thompson, for whom they entertained a kindly feeling, but they would trust no one else. On the very day we reached Cape Town, the Nepos ar- rived bringing Messrs. Robson, Edwards, and Hughes, three 22 254 MISSIONARIES HETDRN TO THE STATION. additional labourers for our mission. This was a highly in- teresting season to us, who had so lately been greatly tried and perplexed. We were also encouraged to hope that the visit of the young prince and Talsho would produce a salutary impres- sion on their countrymen on their return, and at least con- vince them that the missionaries had friends, and were not obliged to live a life of self-denial among the Bechuanas be- cause they were not allowed to dwell elsewhere. Mr. Rob- son, who began very early to feel the effects of a warm climate, was, after taking medical advice, induced to remain, at least for a season, at one of our colonial stations, and ac- cordingly went to Bethelsdorp, where he laboured for some time, and has since been most successfully engaged as a mis- sionary at Port Elizabeth. Mr. Edwards was detained for the purpose of improving the temporal affaii-s, and superin- tending the erection of new buildings at some of our colonial stations. With Mrs. M.'s health somewhat improved, we left Capo Town, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Hughes, and, after en- during for two months the tedium and monotony of an Afri- can journey, we reached the station in May, 1 824 ; having left our companions to remain for a season at Griqua Town, Mrs. H.'s situation rendering it improper for her to travel. Our return, which had been expected with much interest and some anxiety, by the parents of the young prince, was hailed with all the grotesque expressions of extravagant de- light. During our absence Mr. Hamilton had continued his quiet and apparently fruitless labours, but with the consola- tion that the natives had been much kinder than they were wont to be. Soon after our departure he had suffered the loss of his dwelling-house by fire, when almost all that was valuable to him was destroyed, as well as many of the So- ciety's tools. The visit to the Cape appeared to give great satisfaction to all parties. The original engagement for the land on which to establish our new station was ratified. The spot on which the first houses ever built there were to stand was surveyed, and the course of the water-ditch, or canal, marked out. As we had been led to expect labourers from the colony to assist in carrying on the public, work, the pre- liminaries only of removal could be attended to ; and as Mr. Hughes was to join the mission after a time, it was judged proper that I should in the interim fulfil my promise to Ma- kaba, king of the Bauangketsi, for which we had heard that JOURNEY TO THE BAUANGICETSI. 255 he was very anxious, having been informed of my former attempt to do so. I left on the 1st of July, accompanied by some Griquas, ■who were going part of the way with a view to hunt ele- phants. After travelling three days, over a comparatively sandy plain, studded with clumps of acacias, we reached the Mashaua, or Old Lithako river, where we obtained water, by digging in its bed. Here we were joined by another party, under the chief Berend Berend. Leaving this spot, where the drau^t oxen, which were numerous, obtained a very scanty supply of water, we proceeded in a northerly di- rection, over another sandy plain, on which large acacia trees were thinly scattered. At sunset our Bechuana guides, according to custom, halted for the night ; but as the water was distant, our party was anxious to proceed in the cool of the night, for the sake of the oxen. Our guides assured us that we should lose our way ; but the majority was resolved to follow what appeared to be the direct course, for road there was none. While the owners of the long string of wagons were proceeding, trusting to the first team, they, as is very common, .laid themselves down on their stretchers, and slept. The wagon-drivers also began to get very drowsy ; and after some hours' riding, I could plainly discover from the stars that we were diverging to the left, and gave infer • mation to the leading wagon-drivers, but were assured they were right, wMe I was equally sure they were wrong. About two o'clock A. M. we halted. The principal individuals of the party having dozed a little, arose and surrounded the kindled fires, which were now acceptable, though the day had been exceedingly hot. While preparing a cup of cofiee, 1 Iffcok out my compass, to assure the party that for more than two hours we had been travelling towards the Mashaua, from whence we had come. The more sagacious looked for some time at the little instrument, and then, looking around and upwards to the stars, pronounced it to be an impostor. Others remarked, that it might know the right way in its own country, but how was it to find it out there ? While eating a morsel of food, for which we had an un- common relish, the waning moon began to diffuse a pale lustre on the eastern horizon. " What a fire !" said one. " It is the moon," I replied. All, starting to their feet, ex- claimed, " The moon cannot rise on that side of the world ;" and Antonie, a venerable old man, who had been once a slave, said, very respectfully, " Sir, your head has turned ; the moon never rose in the west in my life, and' I am an old 256 WANIIER IN THE DESERT.' man." " It is the moon," I again said ; tut-no one believed me, and we resumed our repast. Presently the moon's horn was seen above the horizon, when all rose again, some say- ing, " What is that ?" I had no further need to argue the point. Antonie, in grave amazement, exclaimed, " The moon has for once risen on the wrong side of the world !" Soon after the sun's rays threw additionail hght on their be- wildered imaginations, and showed to all that, for half the night, we had been travelling towards the station of the for- mer day, instead of from it. But, what was still worse, it was discovered that nearly all our draught oxen had left us, and returned to the water we had quitted. Horses were despatched to bring them back, and in the evening they all returned, were immediately inyoked, and at a late hour we reached water, where we found some of our guides, who laughed most heartily at our self-conceit about seeing in the dark. Here we halted for a couple of days, to refresh our ox- en, while our hunters brought us in plenty of the flesh of the rhinoceros and bufialo. We then proceeded over a country of lime-stone, covered with the hook-thorn acacia, and halted again at Kongke, where we spent the Sabbath, on which we rested, — according to a previous agreement with the Griquas, that there should be neither hunting nor travelling on that day, — and enjoyed the usual services. Here also I had an opportunity of addressing the natives, who congre- gated around us, in a country which at first appeared to be without an inhabitant. A party of Bechuanas, who had ac- companied us thus far, now proceeded north-west, towards the Kalagare, and we journeyed towards the east. The country became rather more interesting, being inter- spersed by hills of lime-stone, covered with trees and shrfflbs, with an abundance of game, some of which must travel at least twenty mUes to obtain water. I found, however, that many of the antelope kind could remain two days without water, while rhinoceroses and quaggas were in the habit of frequenting it daily. Some of the company killed two ele- phants during the day, and we were compelled to bivouac in a plain without water, as it was dangerous to proceed, owing to the number of Uons, whose roar we heard in the distance. Next day we proceeded in a more northerly di- rection over an undulating country, covered with a consider- able quantity of timber, but of the poorest quaUty. We halted at two natural wells of rather an extraordinary de- scription, an iron schist formation, about 100 yards from each other. One is about sixteen feet deep, with four feet of wa- NATURAL WELLS. 257 ter : they are both nearly perpendicular, and about two feet and a half in diametei; The hiU in which they are, is com- posed of a conglomerate mass of iron schist, and near the mouth, as well as in the sides of these holes, are appear- ances as if the whole had once been in a state of fusion, and that these were the apertures of some internal fires, but nothing like lava appesR-s in the neighbourhood. From the older natives who have resided near these wells all their lives, I learned that they were once much deeper. The water was excellent, and to obtain sufficient for ourselves and horses, we fasteHed a vessel to the end of a rope ; the oxen we sent to a water at a distance, called Khuari. Two elephants were shot ; this was glorious news for the poor Bechuanas, or Sauneys, who instantly resorted to the car- cases, and with their wretched knives and spea»s soon dis- sected the ponderous animals. Miserable, indeed, is the condition of these poor people, to whom reference has al- ready been made in the first chapter, where the reader will see a parallel is drawn between them and the Bushmen, who have decidedly the advantage. The latter are inde- pendent, and can give or withhold their services to the neighbouring tribes at pleasure. Their sufferings beyond the common lot of homeless tribes, arise from their stealing of cattle, which renders them obnoxious to their richer neighbours. All that they procure in the chase, even the daintiest of the game, is their own. Not so with the poor Bechuanas. If any of the people from the towns fall in with them, they are in the most peremptory manner ordered to perform every service, however galling. Of this I had frequent opportunities of convincing myself ^ during the pres- ent journey. They are generally spoken of in the same manner as pack-oxen, or beasts of burden, being employed for that purpose. While we were here a Mochuana met some of these people carrying meat which they had procured at a great distance, and were taking to their famihes, when he ordered them to take every ounce of it to his own abode. If the wounded game happen to faU at a place remote from water, these people are collected, especially the females, and compelled to carry the meat perhaps a distance of thirty miles ; and to prevent their elopement, when their services are required the following day, they are sometimes hedged into a fold made of hook-thorn bushes, precisely like so many sheep, and there they must pass the night. Many of the poor women came to the water, particularly when they found there was a stranger there who took their part. The 22* 258 IGNORANCE OF THE NATIVES. Beohuanas who were travelling with, us to the Barolongs, did not object to my interference on,their behalf, and only laughed at my foolishness in making such " lincha," dogs, the objects of my sympathy. They, like the natives in ge- neral, hve at a distance from water, which they visit at most once a day. As they never wash themselves, little of that precious beverage serves ; their vessfls consist of sacks made from skins, also the entrails and paunches of animals. They use also ostrich eggs for the same purpose, corked vdth grass, and of which a woman can carry thirty. Here we spent a quiet, and I believed a profitable Sab- bath. There were members of the church at Griqua Town in our party, who often proved interesting society in a desert. I conversed some time with the poor, ignorant Sauneys; they appeared lively and interesting, especially when they had eaten plenty of meat, of which there was, on that occa- sion, no lack. I made many inquiries to discover if they had any sense of moral evil ; it was with great difficulty I could convey to their understanding what I meant to say. They assured me again and again, that they could not compre- hend that there was evil in any thing they could do. The term boleo, (sin,) did not convey to them the same meaning it does to us ; they applied it to a weapon, or any thing else which they thought was not made as they wished. Thus, what we should call an imperfect knife or arrow, they would call a sinful arrow. But of a sense of sin arising from re- sponsibility, they had no conception ; they did not even seem to think that the conduct of those who tyrannized over them was wicked, but that it had fallen to their lot to be so treat- ed, or was a thing that happened, like a lion killing a man. When I directed their thoughts to a great Being in the hea- vens, some looked up with a vacant stare, as if they expected to see something appear. When I asked, Who made all things ? they were only surprised that I should ask such a question. They wondered at our singing hymns, which " these valleys and rocks never heard," and inquired if they were war songs. My books puzzled them ; they asked if they were my " Bola," prognosticating dice. Hapless be- ings, they drag out a miserable existence ! The p-rincipal part of the game they obtain is caught in pitfalls. I have seen some of these holes sixteen feet deep, where even the tall giraffe and ponderous rhinoceros are entrapped. Some of them are formed like a funnel, others are an oblong square, with sharp stakes fastened in the bottom ; the earth taken out is generaily scattered, and the opening covered over with INCIDENTS AT A POOL. 259 sticks and grass. These pits are often dangerous tfl travel- lers and hunters, and lives are not unfrequently lost, as they are generally formed in the footpaths of the game. The landscape was somewhat pleasing to the eye; many clumps of trees were scattered around, and on the plain to the north, between us and the Molapo river, appeared a forest, but the timber, chiefly acacia, was of small dimen- sions. On the distant horizon, hills in the Bauangketsi coun- try were seen, apparently covered with timber, indicating a more fertile region. Lions abounded in this neighbourhood, but they did not disturb us, excepting by an occasional roar. Some of the horsemen having visited the Molapo, and found the bed of it dry, it was necessary to alter our course. One evening, we came to a pool of rain water, which was sur- rounded by fires, in order to prevent the game from approach- ing. This was to us a most providential supply, as there was no water for two days after leaving this. The few na- tives who visited us, finding that we were very friendly, brought thff whole village to our encampment ; and as we had plenty of meat, they were, to their no small surprise, liberally supplied and rewarded for allowing our cattle to drink at their guarded pool. The soup in which our meat was cooked, and which contained an ample share of mud, was swallowed with avidity ; a dozen would surround a pot, and having no spoons, and not allowing time for the soup to cool, they used the right hand to take out a httle, threw it quickly into the hollow of the left, thence into the mouth, and afterwards licked both that nothing might be lost. The following day, we travelled over a dry and sandy plain, and halted without water. Early next day we resumed our jour- ney, and it was distressing to see the sufferings of the poor cattle from thirst, running into the shadow of a tree or bush, from which it was difficult to remove them. We at last de- scended into the bed of the Molapo, but it was as dry as the neighbouring plains. We proceeded eastward along the bed of the river, but could not, meet with an individual to give us information as to where we might find water. The val- ley becoming rocky, we were compelled to lead out our wagons to the open country. We had scarcely done this, when ts^fo lions passed along the spot we had left, roaring furiously. After some miles' jogging over a rough budiy country, we descended again. into the river's bed, where it was discovered the reeds were on fire. Nearly the whole party ran, expecting water, but found none. Men and cattle being worn out, we halted for the night, every one feehng as 260 A SCENE AT THE WATER. if this Qight was to be his last Two very hot days' travel- hng over a dusty plain, with a dry and parching wind, had reduced mind and body to a state of great exhaustion. A camp of eleven wagons, upwards of one hundred and fifty oxen, and nearly a hundred human beings, generally make a terrible uproar, especially when there is plenty of meat ; ours was silent as the desert around, interrupted only by an occasional groan from the wearied, worn-out cattle. Thirst aroused us at an early hour, and examining the footmarks, we found that the horsemen who had left us on the previous day in search of water, had passed eastward. Before we had proceeded far, a buffalo was discovered in a thicket of reeds. The men, seizing their guns, fired upon him, but as he concealed himself in the middle of the reeds, it was difficult to reach him. I entreated the men to desist, as from the character of the buffalo when- wounded an acci- dent appeared to be inevitable ; however, they persisted, saying, " If we cannot get water, we must have raw flesh." In order to dislodge the animal, they set fire to the reeds, when the enraged buffalo rushed out through the fire and smoke, and though his gait seemed as awkward and heavy as that of a great pig, he instantly overtook one of the men, who escaped with merely being thrown down, slightly "wounded, and having his jacket torn open. Had not the dogs at the same moment seized the animal from behind, the man would have been killed on the spot. The buffalo returned to the flaming reeds, from which he would not move, but was shot after his skin was literally roasted in the fire. About noon we came unexpectedly to the stream, into which men, oxen, horses, and sheep rushed promiscuously, presenting a scene of the most ludicrous description. One man is pushed down by an ox, pleased with the refreshing coolness of the water; another, in his haste, tumbles head- foremost over the bank, followed by a sheep or a goat. One crawls between the legs of oxen, another tries to force him- self in between their bodies. One shouts that a horse is trampling upon him, and another that he is fast in the mud. But while all this was going on there was no disposition for merriment, till every one was satiated and withdrew from the water; when wet, muddy-looking spectacles presented themselves, which would have caused even gravity itself t(- laugh. While the meat was preparing over the fire, a quaff of the tobacco pipe unloosed every tongue, and made all elo- quent on the hardships of the past. Correctly to conceive of such a scene it is necessary to have witnessed it. Here ARRIVE AT THE BAROLONGS. 261 we refreshed ourselves with a day's rest^ and on the follow- ing arrived at Pitsan, the principal town of the Barolong tribe, who lived formerly, when visited by Mr. CampbeU, at Kunuana or Mosheu, three days' journey to the south. Tauane, the highest chief, made his appearancBj amidst a noisy miiltitude ; he saluted us in the English manner, by giving the right hand, saying, as well as he could pronounce it, " Good morning." Many were the good mornings they wished us, though the sun had long set. On the following day the principal men met us, with whom we conferred on the object of my j.ourney, while the Griquas informed them of their plan to shoot elephants in the neighbourhood. Tauane, a weak, imbecile looking man, tried, as is usual among the African tribes, to dissuade me from attempting to visit so notorious a character, at the same time prophesy- ing my destruction. This town, which covered a large space, and included a numerous division of Bahurutsi, and another of the Bauangketsi, contained upwards of twenty thousand inhabitants, all of whom had congregated here af- ter the attack of the Mantatees. During my absence at Cape Town, Mr. Hamilton had visited them, to whom many listened with great attention, and as it had rained very heavily during his visit, he was viewed in the very imposing light of a rain-maker, they having requested him to pray for rain, which he did. They were not backward in reminding me of this fact ; but on inquiring what he had taught them, I found their memories were less tenacious. Anxious to make the best use of the time, especially of the sabbath, I first held divine service in the Dutch language, for the Griquas ; but the noise of the multitude which had congregated, obliged us to desist. I then attempted at two different parts of the town to address the people through an interpreter, and by the influence of the chiefs obtained a hearing. I conversed with the principal men on the subject of a missionary settling among them. One said, " You must come and make rain ;" and another, " You must come and protect us." Of course I gave them to understand that the object of the missionary was neither to make rain, nor to protect them, and referred to our mission at the Kuruman, of which some had a perfect knowledge. Multitudes, who appeared to have nothing to do, crowded around us from morning till night. The town was under the government of three chiefs, Tauane, Gontse, and Inche. The first was considered the most powerful, though Gontse had the great- est number of Barolongs .under his' authority. The last was 262 PROCEED TO THE BAUANGKETSI. brother to Khosi, whom Mr. Campbell describes, but who, from his want of energy, was deposed. As in all other towns, there were sections compo.sed of the inhabitants of other tribes, who congregrate under chiefs of their own, and retain the name and pecuharities which distinguish their nations. Thus there was a considerable suburb of Bauang- ketsi, under the chief Moromolo, who was a man of sound judgment and commanding mien. Wooden bowls, spoons, and ornaments in abundance, were brought to exchange for commodities which we possessed ; anlong others, two elderly- men came and presented their children .for sale ; a sheep was expected for one, and a quantity of beads for the other. I embraced the opportunity of pointing out to them, and to all present, how unnatural such conduct was, and the direful consequences which must arise from such a course ; that a sheep would soon be eaten, and a fe\v ornaments could avail little when compared with the assistance they might expect from their children ; how useful they might become to the tribe generally, and to themselves in particular, when age and weakness would make them thankful to have a friend, a relative, and particularly a child. They walked off, evi- dently disappointed, while those around, who were listen- ing to what I said, professed their fullest conviction of the horrors to which such a system, if connived at, would lead. It is proper, at the same time, to remark, that slavery, in the general sense of the term, does not exist among the Bechu- anas. The feudal system prevails among the tribes. There are two grades, the rich, who are hereditary chiefs, and the poor. The latter continue in the same condition, and their lot is a comparatively easy kind of vassalage. Their hves are something like those of their dogs, hunger and idleness, but they are the property of their respective chiefs, and their forefathers have, from time immemorial, been at the mercy of their lords. There are, however, few restraints laid upon them, as they often leave for a more comfortable situation at a distance ; but should they be brought into circumstances of danger, they flee to their former masters for protection. Tauane was extremely reluctant that we should proceed to the Bauangketsi. He had introduced to me one of Ma- kaba's wives, who had fled with her two sons, one of whom was afterwards, like Absalom, slain by the warriors of his father for treason. The mother of this enterprising charac- ter was a fine looking, matronly woman. After having satisfied myself about the propriety of pro- ceeding, I resolved on leaving with my sm^ party, -expect- MET BY A SON OF MAKABA. 263 ing that the hunters would take another course, as they had their fears, that what every body said about Makaba must be true. However, all inyoked their oxen at the same time, and the cavalcade began to move towards the Bauangketsi country. We halted at night near a large pool, with the pleasing prospect of spending a tranquil sabbath, for we sup- posed we were still a great way from the Bauangketsi cattle out-posts. Having travelled far, our oxen being unusually fatigued, they were left unguarded, or not inade fast with thongs to the wagons, which is frequently done in a strange country, and where lions abound. After our usual evening service, we all retired, every one in good spirits, having some- what recovered from the frightful Barolong stories; about the great man to whom we were going, and whose beer we were told we should have to drink out of human skulls. In the morning it was discovered that nearly fifty of our oxen had strayed during the night ; we met for service in the fore- noon, expecting that the men who were sent in search of them would soon return. About mid-day they made their appearance, with the somewhat startling intelligence that the cattle had fallen into the hands of Makaba's out-post keepers, who, not knowing whose they were, had seized them, and killed one. This information produced not only mur- muring, but much fear in our camp ; and many were the speculations to which it gave rise ; some were contemplating a hasty flight, thus rendering the sabbath less profitable than 1 had anticipated. However, our minds were somewhat re- lieved, for in the evening two men brought six of the oxen, together with the meiat of the one slaughtered, stating that the rest were separated, and sent to the different out-posts, but that they should all be restored. The men very earnestly begged us to intercede for them, with Makaba, who, they said,, would most certainly take their lives for the ox they had slaughtered. We assured them of our interference on their behalf The Griquas were thus, from a kind of necessity, induced to proceed to head-quarters. Having still eight oxen for each wagon, we resolved on proceeding. We had not gone far before we were met by Maroga, or Marocha, one of Makaba's sons, at the head of a number of men. He presented me with some milk, and addressed us as follows : — " I am terrified at your presence, because of the injury we have done you. We should all have fled, but we knew you were men of peace. Your oxen will be restored, not one shall be lost. I have ordered the men to the town who killed the ox. They shall be torn in 264 THE rain-maker's end. pieces before your eyes. Makata, my father, will not pardon them, for he has long expected you as his friends. The road to the town is far, it is without water ; remain, and drink of my pool, and to-morrow I will take you to the house of my father." With his proposal that we should remain during the night, I refused to comply. Upon this he immediately presented me with an ox ; but I still refused, on the ground that his father might in the meanwhile kill the men referred to, which would exceedingly grieve us, and prevent our revis- iting his country. Maroga at last acquiesced, and at my re- quest rode with his wife in my wagon, which was matter of no small diversion to them, riding of any kind, even on oxen, being never practised either by the Bauangketsi or Barolongs. At eight p. M. we halted at a place without water, when Ma- roga and his companion viewed our water-barrels, and the abundant provision we had made of that element, with as- tonishment. The wife of Maroga was formerly wife of the Bahm-utsi rain-maker, who left Lithako in 1822. It appears from her account that Makaba had invited him to the capi- tal, and, after the store-houses were filled with corn, the sup- posed result of the rain-maker's pretended skUl, charged him with having bewitched his child, who was sick, and laying hands on the impostor, Idlled him, and gave his wife to his own son. This was her own story, but the fact was, that Maroga, one day sitting by his father, observed the rain- maker's wife, who was a fine-looking woman, and remarked that she was much too pretty for such a man. Her husband was speared by Makaba's orders, and the widow given to his son. She seemed still to feel grateful for the kindness shown to her at our station, and referred to my interference on be- half of her late husband.' Next day, before we had proceeded far, we were met by messengers from Makaba, who said he had not slept for joy, because of our approach. We passed many women, who were employed in their gardens, who, on seeing us, threw dovni their picks, and running to the wagons, lifted up their hands, exclaiming, " Rumela," (their manner of salutation,) which was followed by shrill cries sufficient to affright the very oxen. As the wagons were obliged to take a circuitous road over the hiU to the town ; we saddled our horses to cross by the nearest way ; on reaching the summit of the hill, at the foot of wliich lay the metropoHs of the Bauang- ketsi, turning our eyes northward, we were greatly surprised on beholding the number of towns which lay scattered in the yalleys. Our guide conducted us through a winding street RECEPTION AT KUAKUE, 265 to the habitation of Makaba, who stood at the door of one of his houses, and welcomed us to the town in the usual way. He seemed astonished and pleased to see us all with- out arms, remarking, with a hearty laugh, that he wondered we should trust ourselves, unarmed, in the town of such a villain as he was reported to be. In a few minutes a multi- tude gathered, who actually trode on each other in their ea- gerness to see the strangers and their horses. Meanwhile Makaba walked into a house, and sent us out a large jar,' or pot of beer, with calabashes, in the form of a ladle. Being thirsty, we partook very heartily of the beer, which possess- ed but little of an intoxicating quality. By this time our wagons had reached the town, and as Makaba had expressed his desire that we should conduct them through the principal street, I went forward to examine the narrow winding path, through a multitude of houses, and pronounced the thing impossible, without seriously injuring the fences. " Never mind that," said Makaba, " only let me see the wagons go through my town ;" and on they went, while the chieftain stood on an eminence before his door, looking with inexpressible delight on the wagons which were breaking down corners of fences, while the good wives with- in were so much amazed at the oxen, and what appeared to them ponderous vehicles, that they hardly found time to scold, though a few did not fail to express their displeasure. Having reached the lower end of the town, we unyoked, and were instantly surrounded by several thousands of people, all making their remarks on the novel scene, which produeed a noise almost deafening ; nor did they retire till night came on. In the course of the afternoon, MarOga, accompanied by three chief men, came with orders frorri his father to ap- point them as representatives, which was done in our pre- sence in the most authoritative manner; when they were commanded to abide by our wagons from sunrise till we re- tired to rest, and to redress every grievance. They were likewise made responsible for every article which might be either lost, or stolen. About sunset, Makaba sent one of his wives, stating, that the only mark of respect which he could at present show, was to send his most beloved wife, who would deliver to us a sack full of thick milk, and that to- morrow he would provide us with slaughter oxen. The sack was so large that it was borne by two men to the wagons. The lekuka, or Bechuana milk sack, will be described in another part of this work. 23 CHAPTER XXIV. Having thus reached the metropolis of the Bauangketsi, and having cast our eyes over a dense population, we were in some measure prepared for the din of many thousands of voices on the coming day. We were not mistaken, for, earjy next morning, and long before we were out of bed, we were surrounded by crowds, so that it was with diiRculty we could pass from one wagon to another. On going up the hill to have a view of the neighbouring country, I was followed by a numiber of men, who, while I was taking some bearings, were not a little surprised at the compass, which they re- garded as an instrument certainly belonging to a sorcerer, though they laughed when I asked them if they thought that I was one. About ten o'clock a. m., Makaba made his appearance, with his retinue, and sat down opposite to my wagon. The bustling crowd retired to a distance, and a dead silence en- sued. He addressed us nearly as follows : — " My friends, I am perfectly happy ; my heart is whiter than milk, becavise you have visited me. To-day I am a great man. Men will now say, ' Makaba is in league with white people.' I know that all men speak evil of me. They seek my hurt. It is because they cannot conquer me that I am hated. If they do me evil, I can rewara them twofold. They are like children that quarrel ; what the weaker cannot do by strength, he supplies with evil names. You are come to see the villain Makaba ; yOu are come, as the Batlapis say, ' to die by my hands.' You are wise and bold to come and see with your eyes, and laugh at the testimony of my enemies," etc. A long conversation afterwards ensued respecting the state of the country, and the Mantatee invasion. On this topic he was eloquent while describing the manner in which he entrapped many hundreds of the enemy by ambuscades ; and stretching forth his muscular arm in the direction of the field of conflict, he said, " There he the bleached bones of the enemy who came upon our hiUs like the locusts, but who melted before us by the shaking of the spear ;" adding, with a stentorian voice, and with superlative self-complaoency, DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN. 267 " Who is to be compared to Makaba, the son of Meleta, the man of conquest ?" The listening multitude broke the sfc lence in, deafening applause. I then told him that the object of my present journey was to open a communication, that we might consider him in future as one of our chief friends, and, as a pledge of that friendship, a missionary should come and reside with him; to which he replied, that "in future he hoped no grass would be allowed to grow on the road between the Kuruman and Kuakue. Mothibi, I know, will hinder you, because he is afraid of losing you ; he is afraid that you will build your houses with me."* He stated that the strayed oxen would arrive that day ; and, in com- pliance with our entreaties, he should pardon the men who had killed the ox. I made him a present of beads and but- tons, with a number of other trinkets ; and also gave him a hat. One of the Griquas directed him to put it on his head, which he did, but immediately removed it to the head of another, saying that he could not see its beauty on his own. As most of the Griquas were come to barter, he informed them that on Friday he should commence. As soon as he departed, the noisy multitude did not allow us a moment's leisure ; and during the night we were annoyed by hyena% of which there are three sorts, the striped, spotted, and another kind, which, though the smallest, is the most dan- gerous. . In the mornrng three oxen were sent for slaughter, and, in the course of the day, boiled com, pottage, and beer. I visited the, town, which is very large, but was not able to judge of the number of inhabitants : the town itself cov- ered a vast extent, so that the population must have been great compared with that of the towns of South Africa gen- erally. Each of Makaba's wives, who were numerous, had a separate establishment, consisting of three or four houses, a corn-house, aiid a general storehouse. They had also a number of round jars for corn, from eight to twelve feet ; in diameter, and nearly the same in height, which are raised from the ground upon a circle of stones. Their premises and houses were on a plan rather different from what I had before seen. ' The houses, though not larger than those of the Batlapis, were built with rathelmore regard to taste and comfort The accuracy with which circles were formed, and perpendiculars raised; though guided only by the eye, was surprising. Their outer yards and house^ftoors were yery clean, and smooth as paper. No dairy-maid in England * To build and to dwell are synonymous, 268 CHAEACTER* OF MAKABA, could keep her wooden bowl cleaner and whiter than theirs were. In this respect they formed a perfect contrast to the Batlapis. Makaba frequently referred to the barbarous mariners of his southern neighbours, and asked me, with an air of triumph, if the Batlapis ever washed a wooden bowl, or if ever they presented me with food which did not contain the mangled bodies 6f flies, in a dish which had had no bet- ter cleaning than the tongue of a dog. The front cattle-fold, or place where public meetings are held, was a circle of 170 feet diameter, formed with round posts eight feet high, and as close to each other as they could stand, each post having been hewn round with the axe. Behind lay the proper cattle-fold, capable of holding many thousand oxen : there were also large sheep-folds. In the early part of the day Makaba was generally employed in cutting out skins to sew together for cloaks, and in the af- ternoon he was frequently found in a measure intoxicated, from a strongfer kind of beer made for his own use. He ap- peared aged, although his mother was then alive. He was tall, robust, and healthy ; had rather the appearance of a Hottentot ; his countenance displayed a good deal of cun- ning ; and, from his conversation, one might easily discern that he was well versed in African politics. He dreaded the displeasure of none of the surrounding tribes ; but he feared the Makooas, or civihzed people. War was almost perpet- ual between him and the Bakones, a very-populous nation to the N. E. and E. Beyond the Bakones lids the Bamangu- ato tribe, distinguished for industry and riches ; and beyond the Bamanguato lie the Bamagalatsela, who seem to form the limits in that direction, of the aborigines of the country ; for beyond them, they said, were half white people, who wear linen, and whose manners are very bogale, ' savage.' While walking to a neighbouring height, I was able to count fourteen considerable villages ; the farthest distant about one mile and a half; and I was informed that there were more towns, which I could not see. For several days I tried at noon to get a secluded spot where I might take the latitude, but was so beset with a crowd of spectators, always in motion when I sat, that the quicksilver of the artificial horizon was made to move as with a breeze. I oncce left my compass at the wagon for the pur- pose of attracting their attention, whUe I stole away with my instruments to a distance, but a crowd soon followed, to see the seipone (self-seer,) as they called the quicksilver, but BOLD HYENAS. 269 their, bustling motions again rendered the taking of a correct altitude of the sun impossible. One night we heard a woman screaming in the town, and, on inquiry in the morning, found that a hyena had carried away her child, which had happened to wander a few yards from the door. On our expressing astonishment, we were informed that such occurrences were very common, and that after night-fall the hyenas were in the habit of strolling through all the lanes of the town, and carrying away what- ever they could seize. As these animals were thus accus- tomed to gorge themselves with human flesh, it became ex- tremely dangerous to pass the night in the open field, espe- cially on the confines of a town. I pointed out plans by which it appeared to me they might succeed in extirpating them, but they seemed very indifferent to my suggestions ; urging as a reason, that there was something not lucky in coming in contact with the blood of a hyena. One evening, long before retiring to rest, we heard, in the direction of the water pools, the screaming of women and children, as if they were in the greatest danger. I sent off a few men, who ran to the spot, and found three children who had been drawing water closely pursued by hyenas, which were on the point of seizing them. The men suc- ceeded in driving the animals away, on which they ran to- wards the women, whom the men also rescued. I under- stood that it frequently happened, that children sent to the pools for water never returned. Many must thus be devoured in the course of a year, a reflection calculated to make any one shudder. The country of the Bauangketsi is hiUy, and even moun- tainous towards the north and east. The soU in general is very rich ; b THE KUATSI DISEASE. 291 Many tribes,- once powerful and prosperous,, but now almost extinct, lend their testimony to the truth of these remarks, and from which we gathered this comfort, that, bad as our circumstances were, they might haveubeen worse; and thus, though troubled on every side, we were not distressed ; perplexed, but not in despair. . In the following month I returned with my family to join Mr. Hamilton, when the prospect of not being able to obtain any thing like grain or vegetables, rendered it necessary for Mr. Hughes to visit the colony for that purpose. The Bechuanas had still considerable quantities of native millet, which they were expecting to reap, but which was greatly injured by two dreadful storms of hail passing over a portion of their gardens. Such was the noise of the hail, that though there was much hghtning, and consequently heavy thunder, it was not heard. Although only what is called the tail of the storm passed over our station, the hail, which was nearly half the size of a hen's egg, barked the trees, and killed some lambs. On the 30th of March, 1825, we were deeply affected to hear of the death of Peclu, the young prince. This unex- pected shock threw a gloom over the whole tribe, and was, as might have been expected, a severe stroke to his parents, who were dotingly fond of him, particularly since his visit to the Cape. To us it was a mysterious event ; we had been promising ourselves that his excellent disposition and com- paratively enlightened mind would eventually produce a salutary change among his countrymen ; but God saw fit, for wise reasons, to deprive us of that means, that we might not be found trusting in an arm of flesh. He died of what is called kuatsi, a disease which appears to be endemial, which assumes the form of a carbuncle, and carries off many cattle ; and as the natives will on no account abstain from eating the dead meat, they are often attacked by it. If it happens to be near a vital part, as in the case of Peclu, it is very frequently fatal ; if internal and not suppurating out- wardly, it is always so. The meat of the goat which has died of this disease is particularly noxious, and I have known persons after having eaten it, cut off in five days. It is always accompanied by considerable^welling attended with great stupor, though with comparatively little pain. I write from experience, having had one on my right eyebrow, which gave my constitution a sesere shock, and from its position my recovery was considered very doubtful. From long obeetvalion, I.have fouud it important to give aperient S92 CRtEL SOTEESTITieN. medicines, scarify the pustules, and get some one to suck it, either with an instrument or the mouth, and to apply any kind of cataplasm to promote a discharge ; it is also import- ant as much as possible to prevent the individual irom being exposed to the cold air. In this disorder, as in every other, when a person of influence is taken ill or dies, the cause is eagerly sought -after, not in the nature of the disease, but in some person ■who was at enmity with the deceased, or who had acted in some way to excite suspicion. This was very natural in them, as they did not believe in an overruling Providence. It was the universal belief, as well as their wish, that men would live alway, and that death was entirely the resiilt of witchcraft, or medicine imparted by some malignant hand, or of some casualty or want of food. The death of the poor excited but little sorrow, and less surmise ; on the other hand, I have known instances when the domestics of a principal man have been murdered in cold blood, just because it was suspected that they had something to do with their master's Sickness. Approaching the abode of a sick chief, I was informed by one of his attendants, with an air of satisfaction, that he would now recover, as two of his servants who had been seen scatteririg more (medicine,) somewhere in the neighbourhood of his dwelling, had just been speared; and while he yet spoke the stifled sighs and moans of their widows and children were entering my ears. This chief is now a Christian. When Peclu died, suspicion fell on the parents of his bride, from some little misunderstanding which had existed at his marriage. They would all have been butchered had not the more enlightened views of Mahura, the king's brother, who had received orders to carry the bloody pur- pose into effect, induced him to apprise the chief and his family of their danger, that they might flee to the Barolongs, which they did. Mahura and his warriors pursued, but de- termined not to overtake them. As the law of retaliation ■was a principle of jurisprudence recognised by the Bechuana rulers, events like those recorded were of almost daily recur- rence during the first years of the mission, but which now rarely happen, even ftr hundreds of miles beyond the mis- sionary stations. Thus the Gospel, which has brbught the startling sound of immortality to the savage ear, exerts as a secondary benefit, a salutary influence even among those who do not receive it, and who remain comparatively tgnoraiit <£ its chief requirements. There are now iustan- RENEWED ATTACKS. 293 ces of judicial inflictions, which though not characterized by the long digested jurisprudence of civilized countries, are nevertheless immense improvements, and as the influence of the Gospel extends, it will transform the dictates of savage ferocity into measures suggested by mercy and wisdom. Peclu died, and his disconsolate parents and friends sorrowed withoutj hope, and agreeably to their notions hated the sight of the fold in which he was interred, the house where he had dwelt, the streets and lanes where he was wont to be seen, and indeed every thing associated with the beloved object. This prepared the people for what followed,, for though they had returned to the town, the hearts of the relations of the deceased longed to abandon it. While witnessing these trying and mysterious providences, we were often deeply aSected, to see that all our efibrts to induce them to improve these dispensations were of no avail. " Go and teach the marauders not to destroy us," was constantly thrown in our teeth. We much needed divine grace to enable us to persevere ; but it often aflbrded us strong con- solation to know that we were remembered in our native land, the multitude of voices ever ascending to the throne of Gdd. We continued our public services, and when the- people would not come to us we went to them. About this time another powerful body from the Orange River, with horses and guns, made an attack on the tribes to the westward of our station, and perpetrated great cruel- ties. The people again fled in consternation, and, at Mo- thibi's request, a messenger was despatched to Griqua Town, entreating assistance ; but it was not in the power of Water- boer to aff"ord it, however willing he might have been to do so. As we had suffered greatly both in our health and pro- perty, by the last flight, and as we had no confidence in the old tale which the natives invented, that the enemy would attack us, we resolved. to remain at our post. We were en- couraged' in this by the arrival of Mr. Hughes, with Mr. Mil- len, a mason, and a few Hottentots from Bethelsdorp^ to assist us in the public works of the new station. We barri- caded the reed walls of Mr. Hamilton's house with chests and sacks, that, in case of an attack, which there was reason to apprehend, we might be in some measure shielded from the shot ; but, after a few days of anxiety and alarm, the enemy departed^ contenting themselves with large spoilst of cattle. The natives had congregated round our temporary dwellings; and there being no prospect of a terminatipn to 25* 294 THE KURUMAN FOUNTAIN. the distressing inroads from the Orange River and Long Mountains, the people finally resolved to abandon the sta- tion. The Bushmen having taken many of their cattle, they appeared inclined to forsake the Kuruman River alto- gether. The arrival of the six men and their families, under these circumstances, rendered our situation peculiarly trying, from the want of supplies to support them, especially in a country where nothing could be purchased. A hunter was employed to obtain game, while every thing, animate and inanimate, calculated in any measure to appease hunger, was ravenously seized for that purpose, in order to prosecute our plan of building the houses, and leading out the water from the bed of the river, supplied by one of the finest foun- tains in South Africa. This was a woi;k of great labour, and carried forward under the most embarrassing circum- stances. Such was the liability to attack, that the men, though labouring not half a mile from our dwellings,' found' it necessary to take their guns with them for fear of a sur- prise. Our large water-ditch, extending nearly two miles, was indeed dug, as the walls of our houses had been built, " in troublous times." The Kuruman fountain issues from caverns in a little hill, which is composed of blue and grey limestone, mixed with considerable quantities of flint, but not in nodules as found in beds of chalk. From the appearance of the caves^ and irregularity of the strata, one might be led to suppose they have been the results of internal convulsions- The water, which is pure and wholesome, is rather calcareous. It is evident that its source must be at- a very great distance, as all the rains which fall on the hiUs and plains in one year, for forty miles round, could not possibly supply such a stream for one month. Although there are no sandstone formatidhs nearer than thirty miles, great quantities of exceedingly fine sand come from it, and it appears to boil up out of the smaller springs in front of the larger, and is to be found in deposit in the bed of the river for miles distant. The sub- stratum of the whole of the country, as far as the Orange River, is compact hmestone, which in some of the Ham- hana hiUs rises considerably above the neighbouring plain ; but these only form the basis of argillaceous hills and iron- schist, on the top of which the compass moves at random, or according to the position in which it is placed. The strata of these schistose formations are often found to bend and curve into all shapes, frequently exhibiting an appearance of golden asbestos, but extremely hard. The conmion blue Illl us. Hughes's illness. 295 asl)estos is to be found at Gamaperi, in the neighbourhood, the same as that fouud near the Orange River. The Ume- stone extends to Old Lithako, where there are hills of basalt and primitive limestone ; among which masses of serpentine rook, of various colours, usually called pipe-stone, are to be met with. Beyond the Batlapi dominions, towards the Mo- lapo, there is abundance of granite green stone, etc., while the limestone foundation, towards the west, terminates among the sandy wilds of the southern Zahara. Fountains, through- out the whole extent of the limestone basin, are precarious, independent of the causes described in a preceding chapter; nor does that of the Kuruman continue to send forth the torrents it once did. The calcareous effects of the water on the roots of reeds, and other substances, in the neighbour- hood of small fountains, show that they were once very large. That of the Kuruman River, which, like many others in South Africa, is largest at its source, is, by evaporation and absorption, lost in its bed, about ten miles to the north-west. The Matluarin, Mashua, and Molapo, join the Kuruman, which was once a large river, emptying itself into the Ga>. riep, at a distance below the waterfall. During this period we were the subjects of great domes* tic afflictions. Five days after Mrs. M.'s confinement of a boy, he was removed by death, and his remains were the first committed to the burying ground on the new station. Mr. Hughes, who began early to feel the effects of the cli- mate, caught cold, while removing fruit-trees from the lower station to his garden, and was brought to the very gates of death. When, however, we had all given him up, he be- gan to amend ; but such was the shock that his frame re- ceived from the severity of the disease, that his perfect re- covery continued for a long time very doubtful ; nor did he regain his wonted strength until he had made a visit to the coast, on account of Mrs. Hughes's health ; after which he removed to the Griqua mission, in 1827, where he has since laboured with success. Our situation during the infancy of the new station, I shall not attempt to describe, though it might yield some profita- Ue suggestions to those who may be similarly situated. Some of our newly arrived assistants, finding themselves in a country where the restraints of law were unknown, and not being under the infiuence of religion, would not submit to the privations which we patiently endured, but murmured exceedingly. Armed robbers were continually malting in- roads, threatening death and extirpation. We were com- 296 DISCOURAGING PROSPECTS. pelled to work daily at every species of lafeour, most of which was very heavy, under a burning sun, and in a dry climate, where only one shower had fallen during the preceding twelve months. These are only imperfect samples of our engagements for several years at the new station, while at the same time, the language, which was entirely oral, had to be acquired. A spelling-book, catechism, and small por- tions of Scripture^ were prepared, and even sent to the Cape to be printed in 1825 ; but, as if our measure of disappoint- ment was not full, they were by some mistake sent to En- gland, and before they could possibly return to our station, we might have had several improved editions. The infection of war and plunder was such, that scarcely a tribe or town in the whole country was exempt. The Batlapis, who of aU the neighbouring tribes had suffered the least, owing to their proximity to our station, instead of being thankful for this, authorized one of their number, the king's brother, to go with a body of warriors and attack the out- posts of the Bauangketsi. They proceeded as far as the ■Barolongs, where they met with the Chief Gontse, who re- ceived and fed them, being related to the royal family of the Batlapis. Gontse, who was an amiable and sensible man, dissuaded them from such a daring attempt, which could only terminate in their destruction. The chief of the party convinced of this, resolved on returning, but watching an op- portunity, when the cattle of the town where they haid re- ceived such hospitality and good counsel had gone to the fields, seized on them, and having two or three guns com- pelled their owners to flee. Elated with the success of this disgraceful achievement, they returned to the neighbourhood of our station. We said nothing on the subject, except that our hearts were sad. The chief of this band of robbers, in- duced his brother, Mothibi, to convene a public meeting, in order to make a kind of bravado. Spies and .sycophants had been sent to hear our judgment on this subject, but they learned nothing more or less than that " we were sorry." This having displeased him, after pointing out to the audience, that we missionaries were the only human beings in the world who did not steal cattle, he declared that instead 3f being thereby awed, he would show them and the tribes iround, that if his name had hitherto been Molala (poor,) enceforth he would be a lion, and such should be his name. Thus he spoke, and departed with a company to hunt. a straight line to their gardens. When a country is not extensive, an4 is bounded by the sea, the scourge is soon over, the winds 300 A CATTLE-HERD MURDERED. carrying them away like clouds to the watery waste, wnero they alight to rise no more. Thus the immense flights which pass to the south and east, rarely return, but fresh supplies are always pouring down from the north. All hu- man endeavours to diminish their numbers, would, appear like attempting to drain the ocean by a pump. We could not, however, feel otherwise than thankful for this visitation, on account of the poor ; for as many thou- sands of cattle had been taken front! the natives, and gar- dens to an immense extent destroyed, many hundreds of families, but for the locusts, must have perished with hun- ger* It was not surprising that our scanty supplies, which we were compelled to procure from a distance, were seized by the hungry people. If our oxen or calves were allowed to wander out of sight, they were instantly stolen. One day two noted fellows from the mountains came down on a man who had the charge of our cattle, murdered him, and ran off with an ox. Some time before, the whole of our calves disappeared ; two of our men went in pursuit, and found in the ruins of an old town the remains of the calves laid aside for future use. On tracing the footmarks to a secluded spot near the river, they found the thieves, two desperate-looking characters, who, seizing their bows and poisoned arrows, dared their approach. It would have been easy for our men to have shot them on the spot, but their only object was to bring them, if possible, to the station. After adangerous scuf- fle, one fled, and the other.precipitated himself into a pool of water, amidst reeds, where he stood menacing the men with his drawn bow, till they at last succeeded in seizing him. He was brought to the station, with some of the meat, which, though not killed in the most delicate manner, was acceptable, and was the first veal we ever ate there ; for calves are too valuable in that country to be slaughtered, not only because they perpetuate the supply of milk from the p;pw, but are reared to use in travelling and agriculture. . The prisoner had a most forbidding appearance, and we could not help regarding him as a. being brutalized by huui. ger ; andj in addition to a defect in vision, he looked like one capable of perpetrating any action without remorse. His replies to our queries and expostulations, were something like the growlings of a disappointed hungry beast of prey. There were no authorities in the country to which we could Appeal, and the conclusion to which the people came, was to inflict a little castigation, while one of the natives was to whisper in his ear, that he must flee for his Hfe. Seeing a A REMARKABLE CASE. 301 young man drawing nfear with a gun, he took to nis heels, and the man firing a charge of loose powder after him, in- creased his terror, and made him bound into the marsh, and flee to the opposite side, thinicing himself well off to have escaped with his life, which he could not have expected from his own countrymen. He lived for a time at a neighbouring village, where he was wont to describe in graphic style his harrow escape, and how he had oiitrun the musket-ball. When told by some one that the gun was only to frighten him,' he ssiw that it must have been so ; he reasoned on our character, made inquiries, and, from our men sparing him in the first instance, and ourselves giving him food, and allow- ing him to run off after he had received a few strokes with a thong, he concluded that there must be something very mer- ciful about our character ; and at last he made his appearance again on our station. He was soon after employed as a labourer, embraced the Gospel, and has, through Divine grace, continued to make a consistent profession, and is be- come an example of intelligence, industey, and love. CHAPTER XXVII. In the end of the year 1826, liaving removed into our new habitation, and the state of the country being ■ somewhat more tranquil, a journey was resolved on to the Barolongs, near the Molapo, in order to attend exclusivply to the lan- guage which hitherto it had not been possible to do, owing to the succession of manual labour connected with commen- cing a new station, when the missionaries must be at the be- ginning, middle, and end of every thing. Mr. Hamilton, who felt that his advanced age was a serious barrier to his acquisition of the language, was anxious for my progress, and cheerfully undertook the entire labours of the station for a short season, preaching to the Batlapis in the neighbourhood, and keeping up public service for the few on the station. Two attempts had been previou-dy made for this very pus- pose, but I had not long left the place before, in both in- stances, I was recalled on account of threatened attacks. Ati 26 302 AN INTERVIEW WITH LIONS. it was taking a new position among a wild , people, a trief glance at my manner of life may yield information, and in- terest the mind of the reader. Having put my wagon in order, taken a driver, and a lit- tle boy as leader of the oxen, and two Barolongs, who were going to the same place, I left the station, my wife and fa- mily, for an absence of two or three months. Our journey lay over a wild and dreary country, inhabited by Balalas only, and but a sprinkling of these. On the night of the third day's journey, having halted at a pool (Khokhole.) we listened, on the lonely plain, for the sound of an inhabitant, but all was silent. We could discover no lights, and, amid the darkness were unable to trace footmarks to the pool. We ^et loose our wearied oxen to drink and graze, but as we were ignorant of the character of the company with which we might have to spend the night, we took a firebrand, and examined the edges of the pool to see, from the imprints, what animals were in the habit of drinking there, and, with terror, discovereil many . spoors of lions. We immediately collected the oxen, and brought them to the wagon, to which we fastened them with the strongest thongs we had, having discovered in,their stppiearance something rather wild, indi- catirig that either from scent or sight, they knew danger was near. The two Barolongs had brought a young cow with them, and though I recommended their making her fast also, they very humorously replied that she was too wise to leave the wagon and oxen, even though a lion should be scented. We took a little supper, which was followed by our evening hymn, and prayer. I had retired only a few minutes to my wagon to prepare for the nigKt, when the whole of the oxen started to their feet. A lion had seized the cow only a few steps from their tails, and dragged it to the distance of thirty or forty yards, where we distinctly heard it tearing the animal, and break- ing the bones, while its bellowings were most pitiful. When these were over, I seized my gun, but as it was too dark to see any object at half the distance, I aimed at the spot where the devouring jaws of the lion were heard. I fired again and again, to which he replied with tremendous roars, at the same time making a rush towards the wagon, so as exceed- ingly to terrify the oxen. The two Barolongs engaged to take firebrands, advance a few yards, and throw them at him, so as to afibrd me a degree of light, that I might take aim, the place being bushy. They had sca^rcely discharged them from their hands, when the fiame went out, and ,the FRESH visrroES. 303 enraged animal rushed towards them with such' swiflness, that I had barely time to turn the gun and fire between the men and the hon, and providentially the ball struck the ground immediately under his head, as we found by exami- nation the following morning. From this surprise he return- ed, growling dreadfully. The men darted through some thorn-bushes with countenances indicative of the utmost ter- ror. It was now the opinion of all that we had better let him alone if he did not molest us. Having but a scanty supply of wood to keep up a fire, one man crept among the bushes on one side of the pool, while I proceeded for the same purpose on the other side. I had not gone far, when, looking upward to the edge of the small basin, I discerned between me and the sky four animals, whose attention appeared to be directed to me, by the noise I made in breaking a dry stick. On closer inspection, I found that the large, round, hairy-headed visitors were lions ; and retreated on my hands and feet towards the other side of the pool, when coming to my wagon-driver, to inform him of our danger, I found him looking, with no little alarm, in an opposite direction, and with good reason, as no fewer than two lions, with a cub, were eyeing us both, apparently as uncertain about ns as we were distrustful of them. They appeared, as they always do in the dark, twice the usual size. We thankfully decamped to the wagon, and sat down to keep alive our scanty fire, while we listened to the lion tearing and devouring his prey. When any of the other hungry lions dared to approach, he would pursue them for some paces, with a horrible howl, which made our poor oxen tremble, and produced anything but agreeable sensations in ourselves. We had reason for alarm, lest any of the six lions we saw, fearless of our small fire, might rush in among us. The two Barolongs were gnidging thtf lion his fat meal, and would now and then break the silence with a deep sigh, and expressions of regret that such a vagabond lion should have such a feast on their cow, which they anticipated would have afiorded them many a draught of luscious milk. Be- fore the day dawned, having deposited nearly the whole of the carcase in his stomach, he coUected the head, backbone, parts of the legs, the paunch,, which he emptied of its con- tents, and the two clubs which had been thrown at him, and walked off, leaving nothing but some fragments of bones, and one of my balls, which had hit the carcase instead of himself * When it was light we examined the spot, and found, from 304 A lion's meal. the foot-maiks that the lion was a large one, and had de- voured the cow himself. I had some difficulty in believing this, hut was fully convinced by the Barolongs pointing out to me that the foot-marks of the other lions had not come within thirty yards of the spot, two jackals only had ap- proached to lick up any little leavings. The men pursued the spoor to find the fragments, where the lion had deposited them, while he retired to a thicket to sleep during the day. I had often heard how much a large, hungry lion would eat, but nothing less than a demonstration would have convinced me that it was possible for him to have eaten all the flesh of a good heifer,"^nd many of the bones, for scarcely a rib was left, and even some of the marrow-bones were broken as if with a hammer. Having discovered a small village on a neighbouring height, although it was the Sabbath, we thought it quite right and lawful to inyoke our oxen, and leave a spot haunt- ed with something worse than ghosts. When we told our tale to the natives, they expressed no surprise whatever, but only regretted that the lion should have had such a feast, while they were so hungry. These people were, as their name " Balala " signifies, poor indeed, and never before having either seen or heard a missionary, they exhibited melancholy proofs of human depravity and palpable igno- rance. I talked long to them, to convince them that there was something else beyond eating and drinking, which ought to command our attention. This was to them inexplicable, while the description I gave of the character of God, and our sinful and helpless condition, amused them only, and extorted some expressions of sympath)', that a Kkosi king, as they called me, should talk such foolishness. Leaving this village, after travelling for two days in a N. N. E. direction over a plain country, pas.sing Mothothobo, and other dry river beds, where one would suppose water had not flowed for the last thousand years, we reached Cho- aing as it is called, from Lechoai, (salt.) and halted at the village of Bogachu, a Barolong chief, a very intelligent young man, with whom I had some previous acquaintance. At this place, and at Setabeng about twenty miles distant, where a great number of Barolongs and Batlaros dwelty I spent ten weeks attending to the language. There was certainly neither personal comfort, nor pleasure to be had during my stay, being compelled to live a semi-savage life, among heathenish dance and song, and immeasurable heaps of dirt and filth. It was not a proper* town, but a compara- COMPANV AND ASSISTANCE. 305 tively temporary abode, to -which the- people had fled from the attacks made on the Batlapis by Jacob Cloete and his followers. Pfeople in this situation, and indeed all living a nomade life, become extremely filthy in their habits. My object being to obtain as much native society as possible, to which they had not the shadow of an objection, I was ne- cessarily, while sitting with them at their work in their folds and inclosures, exposed to myriads of very unpleasant com- pany, which made the night worse than the day. The peo- ple were kind, and my blundering in the language gave rise to many bursts of laughter. Never in o4| instance, would an individual correct a -word or sentence, till he or she had mimicked the original so effectually, as to give great merri- ment to others. They appeared delighted with my compa- ny, especially as I could, when meat was scarce, take my gun and shoot a rhinoceros, or some other animal, when a night of feasting and talking, as if they had had a barrel of spirits among them, would follow. They thought themselves quite lucky in having such company, as one, who could sup- ply them occasionally with both food and medicine. Bogachu, whom I might call my host, daily allowed me a little milk for tea. He was an interesting character, and though not tall had great dignity about his person, as well as much politeness of manner. As the people had no gar- dens, the women had very little to do, and they considered it quite a luxury, to spend a couple of hours in noisy and often deafening conversation at my wagon. Every opportu- nity was gladly embraced in which I could impart" instruc- tion to the people of the different villages around, which were inhabited by Barolongs, Bamairis, and some Bahn- rutsi refugees from Kurrechane. My preaching and speak- ing did indeed appear to be casting seed by the wayside or on the flinty rock, while they would gravely ask, if I were in earnest, and believed that there was such a Being as I de- scribed. It was indeed painful to hear them turning the theme of man's redemption and the Cross into ridicule, and making a sport of immortality. The people^ to please me, would assemble on the Sab- bath, as I told them I could not be happy without telling them about their souls and another world. One day, while describing the day of judgment, several of my hearers ex- pressed great concern at the idea of all their cattle being destroyed, together with their ornaments. They never for one moment allow their thoughts to dwell on death, which is according to their views nothing less than annihilation. 26* 306 MANNER or LIFE. Their supreme happiness consists in having ahundance of meat. Asking a man who was more grave and thoughtful than his companions what was the finest sight he could de- sire, he instantly replied, " A great fire covered with pots full of meat ;" adding, " how ugly the fire looks without a pot !'■'* My situation was not very well suited for study, among a noisy rabble and a constant influx of beggars. Writing was a work of great difficulty, owing to the flies crowding into the inkhorn or clustering round the- point of the pen, and pursuing it on the^paper, drinking the ink as fast as it flowed. The night brought little relief, for as soon as the candle was lighted, innumerable insects swarmed around so as to put it out. When I had occasion to hunt, in order to supply the wantsof myself and people, a troop of men would follow, and as soon as a rhinoceros or any other animal was shot, a fire was made and some would be roasting, while the others Would be cutting and tearing away at the ponderous carcase, which is soon dissected. During these operations they would exhibit all the gestures of heathenish joy, making an uproar as if a town were on fire. I do not wonder that Mr. Camp- bell once remarked on a similar occasion, that from their noise and gestures he did not know his travelling companions. Having once shot a rhinoceros, the men surrounded' it with roaring congratulation. In vain I shouted that it was not dead, a dozen spears were thrust into it, when up started the animal in a fury, and tearing up the;.ground with his horn, made every one fly with terror. These animals were very numerous in this part of the country ; they are not gregari- ous, more than four or five being seldom seen together, though I once observed nine following each other to the water. -They fear no enemy but man, and are fearless of him when wounded and pursued. The lion flies before them like a cat ; the mohohu, the largest species, has been known even to kill the elephant, by thrusting his horn into his ribs. This genus is called by the Bechuanas, chukuru; and the four distinct species have more than once been pointed out to me when they have all been within sight, the mohohu, kheiliua, and the broila or kenengyane.\ The last, * A rough kind of earthenware made by all the Bechuana tribes, and which stands the fire well. t Not having brought with me my memoranda of names, character and instincts of game, I cannot recall Ihe name of the fourth, which is distinguished from the kheiliua by the position of its ears and the forma- tion of its head. There are also other marks by which the natives dis- tinguish them. KINDS OF GAME. 307 tliough the smallest with the shortest- horns, is the most fierce, and consequently they are the last that retire from populous regions, while the other species, owing to their more timid habits, seek the recesses of the interior wilds. Being^n want of food, and not liking to spend a harassing day, exposed to a -hot sun, on a thirsty plain, in quest of a steak, I went one night, accompanied by two men, to the water whence the supply for the town was obtained, as well As where the cattle came to drink. We determined to lie in a hollow spot near the fountain, and shoot the first object which might come within our reach. It a^s half moonlight, and rather cold, though the days were warm.#We remained for a couple of hours, waiting with great anxiety for some- thing to appear. We at length heard a loud lapping at the water, under the dark shadowy hank, within twenty yards of us. "What is that?" I asked Bogachu. "Ririrnala," (be silent,) he said ; " there are lions, they will hear us." A hint was more than enough ; and thankful were we, that, when they had drunk, they did not come over the smooth grassy surface in our direction. Our next visitors were two bufialoes, one immensely large. My wagon-driver, Mosi, who also had a gun, seeing them coming directly towards us, begged me to fire. I refused, having more dread of a wound- ed buffalo than of almost any other animal. He fired ; and though the animal was severely wounded, he stood like a statue with his companion, within a hundred yards of us, for more than an hour, waiting to see us move, in order to attack us. We lay in an awkward position for that time, scarcely daring to whisper ; and' when he at last retired we were so stiff with cold, that flight would have been impossi- ble had an attack been made. We then moved about fill our blood began to circulate. Our next visitors were two giraffes ; one of these we wounded. A troop of quaggas next came ; but the successful instinct of the principal stallion, in surveying the precincts of the water, galloping round ili all directions to catch any strange scent, and returning to the troop with a whistling noise, to announce danger, set them off at full speed. The next was a huge rhinoceros, which, receiving a mortal wound, departed. Hearing the approach of more lions, we judged it best to leave ; and after a lojgely walk of four miles through bushes, hyenas and jackals, we reached the village, when I felt thankful, resolving never to hunt by night at a water-pool, till I could find nothing to eat elsewhere. Next day the rhinoceros and buffalo were found, which afforded a plentiful supply. 308 SWIFT RUNNERS. While spending ten days with the Barolongs at Kongke, among several thousands of people, under the chiefs Molala, Mochuara, and Gontse, I had an opportunity of witnessing the swiftness of some of the natives. Two stately giraffes having got out of their usual beat, came sailing along through the tall acacias, till, discovering the abodes of men, they turned their course, and were soon pursued by some young men, who not only came up to them, but were successful in killing one. This is a feat rarely attempted, except with a horse ; and sometimes even that animal fails to overtake them. ^ During my^ojourn among this portion of that people, I had no little difficulty in obtaining a hearing when I wished to talk to them about their eternal interests. Molala was a complete heathen, and' had obtained his riches, as well as his influence, by intrigue and rapine. I was in the habit of con- cluding from facts, about which I have npt deemed it neces- sary to be very ihinute, that the Batlapis were, as a people, not only very ignorant and depraved, but exceedingly brutal: however, a short stay among: the Barolongs convinced me that the latter far exceeded the former. An intelligent tra- veller,* who sojourned for a time among the Batlapis, was not mistaken when he was obliged, most reluctantly, to come to the conclusion, that "the foulest blot on their character is the indifference with which murder is viewed among them. It excites little sensation,;excepting in the family of the per- son who has been murdered ; and brings, it is said, no dis- grace 'upon him who has committed it ; nor uneasiness, ex- cepting the fear of their revenge. Shall we not hesitate to assert that human nature is superior to the brute creation, when we find among this people instances of the fact, that tha .shedding of human blood, without the pretext of provo- cation or offence, and even by the basest treachery, has fixed no infamy upon the perpetrator of so awful a crime ; and rarely drawn upon him any punishment from the chief au- thority ; an authority which the Giver of power entrusts to mortal hands, only for the weak, and for the common good 9 Such at least, are the sentiments which they express, and such were their replies to my questions on this subject." !Quring my stay at Kongke, an instance occurred confirm- ing the view of Dr. Burchell. A man was quarrelling with his wife about a vei-y. trifling affair, when, in a fit of rage, he grasped his spear, and laid her at his feet a bleeding corpse I . Here there were no coroners nor jury to take cog- * Dr. Burchell. A CRUEL PRACTICE. 3Q9 nizance of the feet, and he walked about without a blush, while' the lifeless body was dragged out to be devoured by the hyena. When I endeavoured to represent to the chiefs, with wlioni I was famiUar, as old acquaintances, the magni- tude of such crimes, they laughed, I might say inordinately, at the horror I felt for the murder of a woman by her o.wn husband. A custom prevails among all the Bechuanas whom I have visited, of removing to a distance from the towns and villages -persons who have been wounded. Two young men, who had been wounded by the poisoned arrows of the Bushmen, were thus removed from the Kuruman. Having visited them, to administer relief, I made inquiries, but could learn no reason, except that it was a custom. This unnatural practice exposed the often helpless invalid to great danger ; for, if not Well attended during the night, his paltry little hut, or rather shade from the sun and wind, would be assailed by the hyena or lion. A catastrophe of this kind occurred a short time before my arrival among the Barolongs. The son of one of the principal chiefs, a* fine young man, had been wounded by a buffalo ; he was, according to custom, placed on the outside of the village till he should recover ; a portion of food was daily sent, and a person appointed to make his fire for the evening. The fire went out ; and the helpless man, notwithstanding his piteous cries, was carried off by the lion, and devoured. Some might think that this practice originated in the treatment of infectious diseases, such as leprosy ; but the only individual I ever saw thus affected, was not separated. This disease, though often found among slaves in the colony, is unknown among the tribes in the in- terior, and therefore they have no name for it. Among the different tribes congregated in this wilderness part of the world, the Bahurutsian refugees were the most interesting and industrious. Having occasion to mend the linchpin of my wagon, I inquired for a native smith, when a respectable and rather venerable man with one eye, was pointed out. Observing, from the cut of his hair, that he was a foreigner, and inquiring where he practised his trade, I was affected to hear him reply, " I am a Mohurutsi, from Kurreohane." I accompanied him to his shop,^in an open yard at the back of his house. The whole of his implements consisted of two small goat-skins for bellows, some small broken pots for crucibles, a few round green stone boulders for his anvil, a hammer made of a small piece of iron, about -three^uarters o£an uafih.thiokrand rath&r more than two by 310 WIRE DRAWINO. three inches square, -with a handle in a hole in the centre, a cold chisel, two or three other shapeless tools, and a heap of charcoal. " I am not an iron-smith," he said, " I work in copper ;" showing me some of his copper and brass orna- ments, consisting of ear-rings, arm-rings, etc. I told him I only wanted wind and fire. He sat down between his two goat-skins, and puffed away. (See page 87.) Instead of usng his tongs, made of the bark of a tree, I went for my own. When he saw them he gazed in silent admiration | he turned them over and over; he had never seen such in- genuity, and pressed them to his chest, giving me a most expressive lobk, which was as intelligible as " Will you give them to me V My work was soon done, when he entered his hut, from which he brought a piece of flat iron, begging me to pierce it with a number of different sized holes, for the purpose of drawing copper and brass wire. Requesting to see the old one, it was produced, accompanied by the feeling declaration, " It is from Kurrechane." Having examined his manner of using it, and formed a tolerable idea of the thing he "wanted, I set to work; and find- ing his iron too soft for piercing holes through nearly an half- inch iron plate, I took the oldest of my two handsaw files to make a punch, which I had to repair many times. After much labour, and a long time spent, I succeeded in piercing about twenty holes, from the eight of an inch to the thick- ness of a thread. The moment the work was completed, he grasped it, and breaking out into exclamations of sur- prise, bounded over the fence like an antelope, and danced about the village like a merry-andrew, exhibiting his treasure to every one, and asking if they, ever saw any thing like it. Next day I told him, that as we were brothers of one trade, (for, among the Africans, arts, though in their infancy, have their secrets too,) he must show me the whole process of melting copper, making brass, and drawing wire. The broken pot or crucible, containing a quantity of copper and a little tin, was presently fixed in the centre of a charcoal fire. He then applied his bellows till the contents were fused. He had previously prepared a heap of sand, slightly adhesive, and by thrusting a stick about two eighths of an inch in diameter, like the ramrod of a musket, obliquely into this heap, ne made holes, into which he poured the contt-nts of his crucible. He then fixed a round, smooth stick, about three feet high, having a split in the top, upright in the ground, when, taking out his rods of brass, he beat them out an-» stoae wiih.his.little iLa(nzaejr,.till they were about the INDIFFERENCE TO THE GOSPEL. 311 eighth of an inch square, occasionally softening them in a small flame; made by burning grass. Having reduced them all to this thicknessj he laid the end of one on a stone, and rubbing it to a point with another stone, in order to introduce it through the largest hole of his iron-plate ; he then opened the split in the upright stick to hold fast the end of the wire, ^vhen he forced the plate and wire round the stick with a lever-power, frequently rubbing the wire with oil or fat. The same operation is performed each time, making the point of the wire smaller for a less hole, tiU it is reduced to the size wanted, which is sometimes about that of thick sevdng cot- ton. The wire is, of course, far inferior in colour and quality to our brass-wire. The native smiths, however, evince great dexterity in working ornaments from copper, brass, and iron.* When I had thus assisted the old man, and become so- ciable, I talked to him about the power of knowledge ; ex- plaining the bellows and other mechanical improvements, which insure accuracy as well as save time and labour. To ihis he hstened with great attention, but when I introduced Divine siibjects, man's misery, and man's redemption, he ;ooked at me with mouth dilated, and asked, " A ga u morihi pula ?" Art thou a rain-maker ? This man had also an in- teresting son and daughter, to whom I often spoke, as well as to some others, in social converse, which I hoped and prayed might be blessed ; but what became of these Bahu- rutsian families, I never knew. Some time after my arrival among these Barolongs, cer- tain people came from the Batiangketsi, who, on seeing me, expressed a strong desire that I should visit their king, Se- begue, the son of Makaba. I explained why I could not comply at that time, and sent a small present. A fortnight after, while sitting writing in my wagon, the hue-and-cry was raised that an enemy was approaching, when many fled, leaving the village with few inhabitants. I did not like the idea of leaving my wagon and othei* property after their ex- ample, and sat waiting to see who the enemy was, when presently Sebegue, with two hundred warriors, fine-looking men, emerged from a thicket of acacias, and the trembling inhabitants were amazed to observe the chieftain, whom they never saw before, come and salute me in a way which proved that we were old acquaintances. I walked into the village with him and his men, to the no small astonishment of its • Specimens of the wire, a hammer, and plate, may he seen in the Mite sojwiy Muwum, Miwoa Qoiuej Bl()ffl£ela