JJKC'*'^**' •im mm ^ (Qatnell IniuBtaitg ffitbtarg Stifatn. Nem fork LIBRARY OF LEWIS BINGLEY WYNNE A.B..A.M., COLUMBIAN COLLEGE, '71. '73 WASHINGTON. D. C. THE GIFT OF MRS. MARY A. WYNNE AND JOHN H. WYNNE CORNELL -98 1922 DA 683.355™" """"'"" '''""' ...JJeJfopolitan improvements: 3 1924 028 063 372 ^: '<^ %yf Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028063372 ■ im tie C^^ Qt"^ -- OF THE I^'E'H"' AMD MOST ]ra"TEKESTIXi& OBJECTS, im the .J, irom Original JDi-awimps l>y .is "^■^>2>;o^^^^ M? THO? H. SHEPHERD, ^^sif^® "-^JT^ y, WITH STiSSSS PEACI ^©EMT'S FAIS LO-N-Ol ON, PaWisled May 3. 1827. by Jones k C°3.Actou Hare. Kngslmi Boai. TO THE KING. Sire, YOUR MAJESTY, in taking a second of my works illustrative of ARCHITECTURE, IV DEDICATION. under your protection, has conferred an honour upon me, as grateful as it is gracious. The splendid and useful improvements that have been effected in this Metropolis, under your Majesty's auspices, and which it is the business of this work to describe, will render the name of GEORGE THE FOURTH, as illustrious in the British annals, as that of Augustus in those of Rome. The power of England, concentrated by peace, and directed by wise counsels, extends its general influence over a greater portion of the habitable globe, than did ever that of Rome by the demora, lizing influence of the sword. And under the benign reign of your Majesty, we derive more advantages from the liberal cultivation of arts of peace, than did any other people, from the most triumphant consequences of successful war. In Rmne the few were prodigiously rich, and the jnass of the people as wretchedly poor ; in Britain, DEDICATION. V the converse of this unhappy condition prevails : and the majority of your Majesty's subjects are in the secure enjoyment of liberty, prosperity and happiness. This state of society arises principally from a due regard for the honours of a noble ancestry ; from active commerce, industrious trade, skilful manufactures, agriculture, arts, science, literature, and those magnificent rewards, which are ever the solace of genius and talents, from a patriotic sovereign and an enlightened people. Industry and a daring spirit of commercial en- terprize, have characterized the British nation, from the time of Tacitus to the present day ; when the influence of our princely merchants, and the spirit of nautical discovery, which signalize your Majesty's reign, have extended the fostering in- fluence of our laws, customs and language, and planted the British standard, from the icy regions of the Polar Seas to the verge of the terra incognita of Australasia. VI DEDICATION. That your Majesty's fortunate and happy reign, may be still more fortunate and more happy, by a providential continuance of the blessings of health, and a happy length of days, is the sincere prayer of Your Majesty's Most obliged and most devoted Subject and Servant, JAMES ELMES. London, July \, 1827. Fxerav,.d bv \V=Walli£ . IL, © Sf Hi) RESPECTFULLY LNSCRIBED TO THE RIGHT HONB"^ THE LORD MAtOH, COURT OF ALDEflJtfeN t COMVON CDaNCU.. MihsLed. t-faivb Zl.\&Z7. by Jones & CIl^Actou Place, Kiiigslaiid Road. Lonikiii . Dftti* lij' Tli^' H.'SVii^iliurd IS ,?:v. 1^ IE HCSHi A W JlDo TO 'THE [iOVERHan frniHECTOna op TH/T national ESTAHLHIIMKNT this PLATK is RESrECTFULLY DEDICATED, l'ul.li.liodM;u..h31lfli/Tjj' JcnwB & C^ .^Aeto.i Plarc Kin^Hliuid Koad, Londou. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. Lo ! Dumerons DoMESj a BuBLlNGTON confess. For Kings and Senates fit, the Palace see ! The Temple breathing a religious awe ; E'en fram'd with elegance the plain retreat. The Private Dwelling. Certain in bis aim. Taste never idly working, saves expense. Lo 1 Stately Streets, lo ! Squares that conrt the breeze, Lo ! rayed from cities o'er the brightened land. Connecting sea to sea, the solid Road. Lo ! the proud Arch, no vile esactors stand. With easy sweep, bestrides the chasing flood. Thomson. VAST AND EN'CEEASIHG IMPROVEMENTS — CULTIVATION OF ARCHIIECTORK OF NATIONAL IMPORTANCE ARTS AND ARTISTS PATRONIZED BY THE WISEST AND GREATEST MONARCHS EARLIEST IMPROVEMENTS OF LONDON PARISH OF MARY-LE-EONE — REGENt's PARK — ORIGINAL GRANTS, &C. — GEOGHaPHICAL BO0NDARIES — MB. NASh's PLAN — VILLAGE OF MARY-LE-BONE — VARIOUS EMPLOYMENTS NEW CHURCHES, CHAPELS, &C. — TOUR OP THE NEW PARE ENTRANCE LODGES — TERRACES — VILLAS, &C. — CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL REMARKS. Augustus made it one of his proudest boasts, that he found Rome of brick, and left it of marble. The reign and regency of Geoege the Foueth have scarcely done less, for the vast and increasing Metropolis of the British empire : by increasing its magnificence and its comforts ; by forming healthy streets and elegant buildings, instead of pestilential alleys and squalid hovels; by substituting rich and varied architecture 2 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. and park-like scenery, for paltry cabins and monotonous cow- lairs ; by making solid roads and public ways, scarcely inferior to those of ancient Rome, which have connected the extremest points of the empire, and have brought its provinces and sea- ports, many days journey nearer to the Metropolis, instead of the miry roads through which our respected ancestors ploughed their weary vpays, from liOndon to Bath, " by the blessing of God, in four days;" and, by beginning, and continuing with a truly national perseverance, a series of desirable improve- ments, that bid fair to render London, the Rome of modern history. So rapidly indeed are these improvements taking place around us, that the absence of a few months from London, produces revolutions in sites, and alterations in appearances, that are almost miraculous, and cause the denizen to feel himself a stranger in his own city. Could our late revered monarch, the first English sovereign who had the taste to patronize arts and artists, since the days of the elegant minded patrons of Rubens, Vandyck and Inigo Jones, revisit the country of his birth and of his love ; and witness the gigantic alterations and tasteful improvements that have been so rapidly and effectually made, under the auspices of his illustrious son and successor ; he would be lost amid the architectural wonders (the merits of which he was so able to appreciate) of that very Metropolis, in which he lived and reigned for more than half a century. The business of this work is to record and describe the " wonderful alterations" that have taken place in those com- paratively short periods ; and have rendered the present aera THE Augustan age of England. Among the glories of this age, the historian wiU have to record the conversion of dirty alleys, dingy courts and squalid dens of misery and crime, almost under the walls of our royal palaces, into " stately streets," to " squares that court the breeze," to palaces and mansions, to elegant private dwellings, to rich and costly shops, filled with the productions of every clime, to magnificent ware-rooms, stowed with the ingenious and valuable manufactures of our artisans and mechanics, giving activity to commerce with all the enviable results of national prosperity. Fields, that were in our times appropriated to pasturage, are METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 3 now become the gay and tasteful abodes of splendid opulence, and of the triumphs of the peaceful arts. The gi-eatest statesmen and philosophers, have ever con- sidered the cultivation of architecture, and the building and adornment of cities, as of primary and political importance. Plato attributes the origin of legislature to the cultivation of the arts. Public buildings are the most lasting and effective ornaments of a country; and at the same time, the cheapest that a people can obtain. By their means nations are established, and obtain " a local habitation and a name ;" by them are opulent and ingenious foreigners attracted, and in most cases, more money is brought into a country than all the cost that was originally expended in their construction. It was so at Vei'sailles, as every body knows ; and similar causes will always produce similar effects. Such works not only attract great and wealthy foreigners, but at the same time they increase commerce, create wealth, give employment to the labourer, the artisan and the artist ; and make a people love their native country ; which is a passion that is the parent of all great actions that conduce to the public wealth. The most learned and philosophic architect, that perhaps ever lived. Sir Christopher Wren, in allusion to such subjects, says,* " The emulation of the cities of Greece was the true cause of their greatness. The obstinate valour of the Jevrs, occasioned by the love of their temple, was a cement that held together that people, in former ages, through infinite changes. The care of public decency and convenience was a great cause of the establishment of the low countries, and of many cities in the world. Modern Rome subsists still, by the ruins and kmta.- tions of the old ; as does Jerusalem by the temple of the se- pulchre, and other remains of Helena's zeal." In this opinion of eminent statesmen and philosophers have the greatest princes and monarchs ever coincided. They have invariably distinguished themselves by a just and honourable patronage of the arts, of literature, of philosophy, of science, and of the other heaven-directed workings of the human mind. It has, fortunately, for humanity, almost always happened, that the greatest men of every kind, in art, in literature, in philo- * See ErMEs'3 Life of Wren, Appendra, p. 115 4 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. sophy, in science, in politics, and in warfare, have generally been contemporaries, and flourished resplendently in a compara- tively short period of time. When Apelles, Praxiteles, Lysippus and other eminent artists flourished in Greece, her greatest poets, orators, and philosophers were alive ; and Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Demos- thenes, Isocrates, Thucydides, Xenophan, ^schylus, Euripides, Sophocles and Menander, flourished almost in the same age. The ages of Pericles, of Augustus, and of Louis the Fourteenth, were similarly celebrated for their several constellations of artists, philosophers, statesmen and warriors ; and the Augus- tan AGE OF Geokge THE FouRTH, emblazoned as it is by a galaxy of talent in poetry, in the sublimest works of imagina- tion, such as no nation has hitherto surpassed, in legislation, in the art of war, and in the more peaceful ails and sciences, vdll be no less the subject of adnliratioa from the future historian and posterity. It is also no less remarkable, that the duration of these brilliant epochs or times of perfection, have generally been brief in proportion to their splendour. May the duration of our present splendid epoch, contradict the history of past ages, and be no less continuative than brilUant. The honours conferred by our present enlightened sovereign on literature and the arts, followed up as they are by the legislature of the country, and by our leading nobility and gentry, in the establishment of national libraries, galleries of sculpture and of painting, have given a life and spirit to the genius of our times, that cannot fail of producing an abundant harvest of the richest quality. The professors of the fine arts, poets, and other cultivators of the human mind, have ever been considered among the benefactors of mankind, and honoured as such by the great. The Greeks rendered as much honour to Polygnotus, as they could have bestowed either upon Lycurgus or Solon. They prepared mag- nificent public entries for him into cities that he had' decorated with his pencil; and appointed, by a decree of the council of Amphictyons, that he should be maintained at the pubhc expense wherever he might choose to go. Alexander the Great and Demetrius Poliorcetes, are ahke celebrated for their attentions to illustrious artists ; and paid the greatest homage to the rare talent and superior merit of METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 5 those extraordinary men, who flourished in their days. Alex- ander issued a remarkable edict in favour of three of the most eminent artists of his day, whom he honoured with his friend- ship, by which he granted exclusively to Apelles, the privilege of painting him ; to Lysippus, according to Pliny, and to Poly- cletes, according to Apuleius, that of representing him in bronze statues ; and to Pyrgoteles that of engraving his por- trait. Rightly judging, says Cicero, that the skill of those two great masters (Apelles and Lysippus), would also immor- talize his ; for it was not to please them that he published that edict, so much as to enhance his own glory. One of the greatest emperors of the west, since the days of Charlemagne, conferred the highest honours of Chivalry upon Titian ; Francis the first, one of the most enlightened of mo- narchs, honoured Da Vinci in the highest degree; and our days have vdtnessed our own sovereigns honouring and de- lighting in the works of eminent artists, embellishing our metropolis with grand and magnificent edifices, by munificent and splendid presents of books, pictures and statues to our public institutions ; by honours conferred upon splendid talent and art, as well as upon eminence in legislation and warfare. Upon works such as these, alike worthy of a great monarch, and a brave, free and enlightened people, Agrippa,the son-in-law of Augustus, made a magnificent harangue, worthy of the first and greatest citizen of Rome : in which he shews, by several reasons, how useful it would be to the state, to exhibit publicly 4;he finest pieces of antiquity of every kind ; for the pui-pose of exciting a noble emulation in the youth ; which, no doubt, he adds, would be much better than to banish them into the country, to the gardens and pleasure grounds of private persons. Such has been the conduct of the monarch and legislature of these kingdoms, in establishing academies and societies, founding and enlarging libraries, museums, galleries and in- stitutions, enlarging and improving the metropolis; for the magnificence of the buildings, the multitude of good pic- tures, statues and other monuments of the good taste, munifi- cence and genius of a people, are among the greatest embel- lishments of a state, and vrise princes and enlightened legislators do well in encouraging them. E 6 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. Persons who remember London as it was thirty years ago, may proudly says regarding it as it is, " Look on this picture and on this." No city in Europe has undergone such rapid changes and im- provements as this metropolis. The first great change was oc- casioned by that awful conflagration, (calamity it can scarcely be called by us), which consumed the greater part of the an- cient city, and purified it from plagues, pestilence and perpetual fear of incendiaries. The magnanimity with which the citizens sustained the calamity which destroyed their houses and estates, the greatness of mind with which they beheld the ashes of their houses, and gates and temples, was a theme of admiration to all their contemporaries. They immediately set about rebuild- ing their city, while its ruins were still smoaking. Wren, Evelyn, Hooke and others presented designs for the new city, and the King, his brother the Duke of York, and the whole court aided the undertaking. The Royal Society forwarded their views. Wren's plan* was adopted by the King and privy council. It possessed such qualities for security, convenience and beauty, that if it had been executed, the city would not have been in that disgraceful, deserted, and dilapidated state, that a comparison with its improved and improving sister of Westminster, has now rendered it. The hurry of rebuilding, and the disputes about property, prevented Wren's beautiful plan from being adopted, and the city became one, whose streets are lanes, and whose lanes are alleys. The sooner the corpora- tion (who have recently appointed a committee of improve- ments, which it is hoped will not render their important oflSce a sinecure) remove this opprobrium from their city, and emanci- pate their fine cathedral from its monstrous thraldom, the sooner will their city be enabled to hold its due rank in the splendid metropolis of the empire. The next alteration or improvement of consequence was the removal of all the signs from the public streets that cut such a grotesque figure in Hogarth's pictures, and the taking away of the projecting water spouts, and dripping eaves, that made " the • For an engra^^ng and description of this plan, see Elmes's Life of Wrcr, 197. et avq. and Appendix No. 13. p. 81. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 7 art of walking London streets," so much more difficult when it was sung by Gay, than in our improved days. The new thoroughfare called Skinner Street, after an Alder- man of that name, whom the city deigned to honour, was the next metropolitan improvement of utility ; and certainly the use- ful was more sought after than the ornamental by the then city Vitruvius. Picket Street near Temple Bar, wherein another Alderman's name is immortalised to puzzle posterity, is another of the useful improvements by the corporation of London. The parish of St. Mary-le-bone succeeds, though not in strict chronological order, to the improvements within the walls, and the name of " the Mary-bone school of temple builders has damned" its masters and founders " to everlasting fame," by a proverb and bye-word. Clipstone Street, Titchfield Street and their neighbourhood present their venerable ruins to the notice of the artist and antiquary. The city of Westminster deserves, and shall receive in its proper place, the honour due for its alterations, improvements and restorations, particularly those in and about its venerable minster, and the two houses of parliament. The parish oi St. Pancras, and the Duke of Bedford's estate in the neigh- bourhood of Bloomsbury, and the New Road, present claims to commendation, and shall be noticed in their turns, as shall every other of importance. But our immediate object is with those of our own days, those which are arising around us from the foot of Primrose Hill, to the banks of Le Notre's canal in the park, which have metamorphosed Mary-le-bone park farm and its cow-sheds, into a rural city of almost eastern magnificence ; and changed Swallow Street and its filthy labyrinthine environs, into the most picturesque and splendid street in the metropolis. Therefore, although it is intended that our work shall com- prehend a succinct, but COMPLETE HISTORY of the BRITISH METROPOLIS, yet, with a view of gratifying that interest which is universally excited, we shall begin with the Regent's Park, and proceed onwards through the most splendid and magnificent architectural undertakings now in progress. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The Regent's Park, This compages of splendid architecture, and tasteful garden- ing, was named after our present king, during his sovereignty as regent of these kingdoms. It is a part of the ancient manor of Mary-le-bone, still more anciently called Tybourn, from its situation near a small bourn, or rivulet, formerly called Aye- brook, or Eye-brook. The Rev. Mr. Lysons, the indefatigable author of the historical account of the environs of London, imagines with great reason, that when the site of the church was altered to another spot* near the same brook, it was called St. Mary at the bourn, and became corrupted to its present ap- pellation of St. Mary-le-bone, or Mary-bone. This immense parish which is larger, more opulent, more populous, and possessed of more public and private buildings of good taste and real beauty, than many METROPOLISES of the continent, is situated in the hundred of Ossulston, which gives a baronial title to the heir apparent of the noble family of Tan- ker ville. Its extent may be gathered, when it is knovm that it is bounded on the east by the parishes of St. Giles's in the fields, and St. Pancras; on the west by that of Paddington, to the Kilburn Road ; on the north by Hampstead to the foot of Prim- rose Hill; and on the south by those of St. Anne Soho, St. James Westminster and St. George Hanover Square. It is eight miles and a quarter in circumference, and computed to contain above two thousand five hundred acres of land. The brook, or bourn, whence the parish derives its name, runs on the south side of Hampstead, and passes near Bellesize park to Barrow Hill farm. Thence through the Regent's Park, to Marybone lane, it crosses Oxford Street near Stratford Place and Piccadilly under a bridge, near Hay Hill; which is supposed by some antiquaries to derive its name from this Ayef brook. It then passes through St. James's Park, near Buckingham House, through Tothill fields, and falls into the Thames at a place called King's Scholars' Pond, a little below Chelsea. * This event ocCUTred in the year 1400, in consequence uf the church at the de- eerted village of Tybourn having fallen into decay, and being robbed of ita books, vestments, bells, images, and other decorations. ♦ This derivation to be complete, must borrow the cockney aspiration of tbn H. METEOPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 9 The manor of Tyboum is described in Doomsday book, as appertaining to the crown, and was held under it by various noble families, whose names and titles are all recorded in the third volume of Ly son's " Environs of London." The manor was granted by several successive kings to various persons, but the park was often reserved or reclaimed by the crown. The manor became afterwards the property of the Duke of Portland; whose grandfather married Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley, (whose names are given to several streets), heiress of the two noble families of Newcastle and Oxford. The manor house, which during the time that it was vested in the crown, was occasionally used as a temporary royal resi- dence, particularly by queen Elizabeth, who appears by many accounts to have used her various palaces in rapid succession, was pulled down in the year 1791. From a drawing by Rooker, in the possession of Mr. White the architect, it appears to have retained, in spite of many alterations, some traces of the style of architecture used in that queen's reign ; at which period, the park of Mary-le-bone was abundantly stocked with game. In the history of the royal progresses of that queen it is recorded, that " on t)ie 3rd February, 1600, the ambassadors from the Emperor of Russia, and other Muscovites rode through the city of Lon- don to Marybone park, and there hunted at their pleasure, and shortly after returned homeward." When the manor of Mary-le-bone was gi'anted to the before mentioned Edward Forsett, King James reserved the park in his own hands. It continued to be the property of the crown till the year 1646, when Charles I. by letters patent dated at Oxford May 6, granted it to Sir George Strode, and John Wandesforde, Esq. as security for a debt of £2318. lis. 9d. due to them, for supplying arms and amtmunition during the civil wars. After the death of the king, when all the crown lands were disposed of by Cromwell, this park, without any regard to the claim of the before-mentioned grantees, was sold for £13,215 6s. 8d., including £130 for 124 head of deer, and £1774. 8s. for the timber, exclusive of 2976 trees marked for the navy, to John Spencer who is described " of London, gentleman," in behalf of Colonel Thomas Harrison's regiment of dragoons, on whom Mary-le-bone park was settled for their pay. Sir John Ipsley being appointed by the protector to the office of Ranger. F 10 METROPOLITAN IMPItOVEMENTS. On the restoration of Charles 11. Sir George Strode and Mr. Wandesforde were reinstated in their possession of the park, which they held till their debt was discharged, except the great lodge or palace as it was sometimes called, and sixty acres of land, which had been granted to Sir William Clarke, secretary to the Lord General (Monk) the Duke of Albemarle. A com- pensation was also made to John Carey, Esq. for the loss of his situation of ranger^ which he had held before the protectorate. When Cromwell disposed of the park, for the support of a regiment of dragoons, it was disparked and never afterwards stocked. It was let on lease in the year 1668 to Henry Earl of Arlington ; in 1696 to Charles Bertie and others in trust for the Duke of Leeds ; in 17*24 to Samuel Grey, Esq. whose interest in the lease was purchased by Thomas Gibson, John Jacob and Robert Jaeomb, Esqrs. who renewed their lease successirely in the years 173Q, 1735, and 1742. In 1754 a lease was granted to Lucy Jaeomb, widow and Peter Hindey Esq. In 1765 William Jaeomb, Esq. had a fresh lease for an undivided share of fifteen twenty-fourths. The term of this share was pro- longed in 1772, and again in 1780 for eight years which com- menced on the 24th January, 1803, and expired at the begin- ning of the year 1811. In 1784 Mr. Jaeomb sd:d his interest to the Duke; of Portland. In the years 1765 and 1772 Jacob Hinde, Esq. had a new lease of the remaining nine twenty- fourths ; which lease not being renewed, expired in 1803, eight years before the Duke of Portland's; So passed away the destinies of Mary-le-bone park, till it at- tained its present state of richly adorned beauty. These cu- rious and authentic details were originally communicated to the Rev. Mr. Lysons by WiM4am Harrison, Esq. of the land revenue office in Scotland yard', by pernrissioni of tiie late John Fordyce, Esq. the then surveyor general of his Majesty's woods and forests ; and continued^ to the present day &Qm ^milar authentic sources of inforan^ion.. This esfjate', the late Mary4e'-boMe park, now the Regent's park, contains 643 acres, 17 perches, according to an actual survey made in the year 1794 by delate Thomas Leverton, Esq. under the direction of John Fordycei Esq. the late surveyor general of the crown lands, amd by order of the Lords of the treasury. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. H About two thirds of this magnificent projierty lies in the parish of St. Mary-le-bone, and the rest in that of St. Pancras. It extends along the New Read, from Portland Street, on the east, to the end of Ilarley Street, Portland Place, on the west. Shortly after the before-mentioned sm-vey, the Lords of the treasury empowered the Surveyor-geiieral to offer premiums for the best plans for building on this new estate ; and selected two (we believe) as the best) one by John Nash, Esq. which embraced all those beauties of landscape gardening, ^vhich his friend, the late Humphrey llepton, so successfully introduced, with the splendour of architectural decorations, in detached villas ; and the other by Messrs. Leverton and Chawner, which was more urban sind builder like, thaii the enchanting rural plan which their lordships adopted. The park no sooner became once more the prop'erty of the crown, than the commissioners of his Majesty's woods and' forests commenced operations to carry Mr. Nash's plan into effect. Following ihe sound advice of Cato the elder, in his book upon rural life,* that T*^hen we intend to btiild, we ought to deliberate j when our intentions are to plant, we should not detiheratei but act ; they began by planting the whole demesne according to the plaii ; and it has therefore had the advantage of so many years growth while the buildings are in progress. There is another advantage in this process, much in fevour of the divine art of landscape gardening, which is, that from the moment of finishing either building or planting, the former begins to decay, and the latter to flourish. Thus has the ptiblic" spirit of the king and his government secured to the inhabitants of London a magmfieent park, whose beauties and splendour cannot be surpassed by any metropolis in Euro'pe. What the melodious poet Waller sung of St. Jaines's Park, as improved by Charles, the Secotld> may truly be applied to this noble appropriation of the foyal demesne, whose beauties are the stibject of the following pages. * jEdificare din eogitare oportet, conserere cogitare noa oportet, sed facere. Cato de re Rust 12 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. " For future shades, young trees upon the banks Of the new stream appear in even ranks. The voice of Orpheus, or Amphion's hand. In better order could not make them stand ; May they increase as fast, and spread their bonghf;, As the high fame of their great owner grows ! May he live long enough to see them all Dark shadows cast, and as his palace tall !" The extension and improvement of the metropolis in this princely parish and district, within the memories of not very aged people, have been more rapid and surprising than those of any other country in Europe. They present to the astonished spectator, so magnificent are the buildings, and so tasteful is the scenery, more the appearance of the newly founded capital of a wealthy state, than one of the suburbs of an ancient city. The progress of the metamorphoses of this farm-like ap- pendage to our metropolis, into its present superb state, is a curious subject of investigation, as a series of historical facts in the history of our Metropolitan Architecture. We again refer to the circumstantial authority of Mr. White, as furnished by him to Mr. Lysons. At the beginning of the last century, Mary-le-bone was a small village, nearly a mile distant from any part of the metro- polis. In the year 171.5 the plan for building Cavendish Square, and several new streets on the north side of Oxford Street, then called indiscriminately by that name and Tyboum Road, was first suggested. About two years afterwards the ground was laid out, and the circular plantation in the centre inclosed, planted and surrounded by a parapet wall and iron railings. The whole of the north side was taken by the celebrated James Bridges, Duke of Chandos, who acquired a princely fortune as pay-master to the army in Queen Anne's reign, and whose magnificent buildings, particularly his unrivalled man- sion at Canons, and stately style of living, which fell little short of that of a sovereign prince, were celebrated by Pope in his satires under the name of Timort. Of his magnificent concep- tions in building the satirist says, that " Greatness with Timon dwells in such a draught As brings all Brobdignag before your thought ; To compass tliis, his building is a town, Mis pond an ocean, his parterre a down. METEOFOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 13 Tlie Duke (then Earl of Carnarvon) it is said, took this large portion of the ground, which reached an immense way back towards the north, for the purpose of building a town residence, correspondent with that of Canons. Of this he built no more than the wings, which were sufficiently spacious to become mansions. One, was that large mansion at the corner of Harley Street, formerly occupied by the late Princess Amelia, mother to King George the Third ,• subsequently by H. P. Hope, Esq. ; and recently, with its spacious court yards and stable offices, built upon by George Watson Taylor, Esq. ; and the other the corres- ponding mansion at the corner of Chandos Street. The centre part is occupied by two splendid mansions of the Corinthian order, which stand on the sides of an opening leading to a place still known by the name of Chandos' Folly. They were designed, I believe, by James of Greenwich, who was architect to the Duke at Canons. At this period, Harcourt House, the large mansion on the east side, and Bingley House, now Harcourt House, on the west side, a noble mansion designed by Inigo Jones were the only houses in Cavendish Square. The prison-like walls which close up the latter on every side like a fortress, were then ne- cessary from its solitary and dangerous situation. It is now the residence of the Duke of Portland, who has recently added a handsome range of stable offices at the back of the house, in Wimpole Street, in the style of the mansion, from the design, and under the superintendance of Samuel Ware, Esq. his grace's architect. Portions of ground on the east and west sides were taken by Lord Harcourt and Lord Bingley ; and the rest was let to builders and other speculators. The failure of the celebrated South Sea adventure in 1720, caused a temporary cessation to these improvements, and it was several years before the square was entirely finished. In the year 1770, an equestrian statue, was erected in the centre of the enclosure to the memory of William Duke of Cumberland the hero of CuUoden ; who is represented in the full military costume of his day. It is of lead gilt, cast by Chew, a statuary of some eminence in his day ; and was placed there, as the inscription on the pedestal informs us, by Lieutenant General William Strode, in gratitude for pri- vate kindness, and in honour of public worth. G 14 METROPOLITAN IMPKOVEMENTS. During the stoppage of the buildings in Cavendish Square, a new chapel and market-place were projected, not only as an inducement for the builders to proceed, but also for the inhabi- tants of the square and new street. The designs were made by James Gibbs, the architect of the beautiful church of St. Martin in the fields. They were both completed in 1724, but the market-place was not opened for business till 1732, in con- sequence of the opposition of Lord Craven, who feared that it would abridge the value of Carnaby Market. This chapel named after the Earl of Oxford, on whose estate it was built, was the first of the established church that was erected in the parish of Mary-le-bone, and is situated at the corner of Vere Street and Henrietta Street, both named after the noble family of Vere Earl of Oxford. The market is called Oxford Market from the same cause. The houses on the north side of Tybourn road, were completed in 1729, and it was then first called by its present name Oxford Street. About the same time, most of the streets, which lead from Oxford Street to Cavendish Square and Oxford Market, namely, Henrietta Street, Vere Street, Holies Street, Margaret Street, Cavendish Street, Wimpole Street, Princes Street, Bolsover Street, Castle Street, John Street, Market Street and a few others, were built ; and the sites marked out for Lower Harley Street, Wigmore Street, Mortimer Street &c. This magnificent parish has five splendid churches : one, the parish or mother church, and four district churches, which it is probable will hereafter become parochial, by a division of the parish ; like that of St. George Hanover Square, from its parent St. Martin in the fields. The old parish church, which was built in 1741, has been converted, by act of parliament, into a parochial chapel of ease, and a large chapel that was begun in July, 1813, was enlarged, altered from the Ionic to the Corinthian order, and by other requisite improvements converted into the parish church. It was finished in February, 1817, from the designs of Thomas Hardwick, Esq. and will be fully noticed in its proper place. Since that time, the other four churches have been erected under the authority of an act of parliament passed during the regency of our present king, at an expence of about £20,000 each. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 15 The church of St. Maey in Wyndham Place, Bryanstone Square, was designed by Robert Smirke, Esq. and consecrated in January, 1824 ; that of All Souls, in Langham Place, by John Nash, Esq. was commenced in 1822, and finished in 1825 ; that of Christ Church, in Stafford Street, Lisson Green, by Philip Hardwick, Esq. was began in July, 1822, and opened for di\nne service in May, 1825 ; and Trinity Ch urch, now building opposite the north end of Portland Street, by John Soane, Esq. the professor of architecture in the Royal Academy. Full descriptions of these new churches will be found in their proper places. The several episcopal chapels, or chapels of ease, were built about the following years. Oxford Chapel, in Vere Street, de- signed by Gibbs, in 1724 ; Bentinck Chapel, in 1772 ; Portman Chapel, in 1779 ; Margaret Street Chapel, first used as a place of worship for the Church of England, about 1779; Baker Street Chapel, and Brunswick Chapel, in Upper Berkeley Street, about three years afterwards. In the beginning of the reign of George the Third, there was nothing but a dreary, monotonous waste of dank pasturage, between the new region of Cavendish Square and the village of Mary-le-bone. The first improvement, westward of this site, was the erection of Portman Square; which was laid out and the north side begun about 1764, but it was nearly twenty years before the whole was completed. Even in 1772 the now densely populated site between Duke Street and Mary-le-bone Lane, was entirely unbuilt upon. Portman Square consists principally of large and splendid mansions, without any pre- tensions to external display in architectural embelUshments. At the north-west angle is Montague House, formerly the re- adence of that amiable philanthropist Mrs. Montague, who was celebrated for her Uterary talents, and for her custom of enter- taining and regahng all the little chimney sweepers of the me- trc^olis in her house and gardens on the first of May in every year ; m gratitude, it is said, for having recovered a lost child from among that pitiable class of infant sufferers. In 1770, the continuation of Harley Street was begun, as well as Mansfield Street, on a site of ground that had formerly been a basin or reservoir of water. Soon afterwards Portland Place, formerly reckoned the most magnificent street in tlio 16 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. metropolis, was built ; and also most of the streets that inter- sect ijt. It was originally terminated by Foley House on the south, and by the fields of Mary-le-bone Park farm on the north. In the year 1772, according to a plan and description given in Northouck's History of London, a new square was then building on the site of Portland Place, called Queen Square, bounded by Foley house and gardens on the south by houses ; abutting on Portland Street on the east ; by Harley Street on the west ; and by an island of mansions on the north ; with two grand streets, one on the east, called Highgate Place ; and the other on the west, Hampstead Place. Westward, towards the south, is Great Queen Anne Street, and opposite to it, on the east, Little Queen Anne Street. This design was abandoned, and Portland Place built, as be- fore described ; but recently, Foley House has been taken down and this spacious avenue of mansions, being 125 feet in breadth, is continued, by an elongation called Langham Place, by a handsome sweep round Sir James Langham's elegant mansion and grounds to Regent Street and St. James's Park on the south : and by Park Crescent, New Road, and its planta- tion, with a bronze statue of heroic size of the late Duke of Kent, by Gahagan, and the splendid creations of picturesque art of the Regent's Park, on the north. Portland Place is principally erected from the designs of Robert Adam, one of the architects of the Adelphi Buildings, and Park Crescent, Langham Place, and the continuation into Regent Street, from those of Mr. Nash. Stratford Place was built about the year 1774, on ground belonging to the Corporation of London, then called Conduit Mead, where the Lord Mayor's banquetting house formerly stood. Old Stowe informs us that it was customary, in those days, for the Lord Mayor, accompanied by the Aldermen and other citizens on horseback, on the 18th of September of every year, to visit the fountain heads whence the conduits in the city were supplied, hunting a hare before dinner and a fox after dinner, in the fields beyond St. Giles's. The dinner was served in the banquetting house. The site was granted on lease renewable for ever on certain covenants, from the corpora- tion to Edward Stratford, after whom the place was named, and others. It consists of two handsome wings, which form an METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 17 entrance,, two rows of large dwelling houses, and a mansion on the north, which faces the entrance. It was formerly decorated with a column supporting a statue of the king, commemorative of the naval victories of Great Britain. It was erected by the late General Strode, and taken down in 1805, in consequence of the foundation giving way. Cumberland Place, now a Crescent, but originally intended to have been a Circus, was began about 1776, in a " plain brown-brick" style of architecture. Every war and every peace created fresh revolutions and improvements in the architecture of the metropolis. From 1786 to 1792 the additions and improvements increased with rapidity. All the Duke of Portland's property in Maiy- le-bone, except one farm, was let at that period on building leases; and the new buildings in the north-west part of the parish increased with equal rapidity. Manchester Square,* which had been began in 1776 by the building of Manchester House, one of the finest mansions in London, was finished in a neat manner in 1788. The large estates at Lisson Green have all been largely, and in many instances, tastefully built upon. Their principal beau- ties will also be dilated upon hereafter, as well as those in the Regent's Park, Regent Street, &c. The causes of the extension of the metropolis in the style of the Mary-le-bone school of temple builders, whose motto was, that their buildings should only be strong enough to last till they were sold, has been so well depicted by Mr. Nash, to whom the public are beholden for the most picturesque improvements that ever were bestowed upon their metropolis, in each of his reports to the commissioners of His Majesty's woods and forests, that we cannot do better than to extract a few of the more im- portant passages. This eminent architect says, that " the arti- ficial causes of the extension of the town, are the speculations of builders, encouraged and promoted by merchants dealing in the materials of building, and attorneys with monied clients facilitating, and indeed, putting in motion, the whole system, » Mr Britton, in his last edition of " the Original Picture of London," says, this square " originally was intended to have heen called Qneen Anne's Square." A reference to page 16, will prove this assertion of that generally correct antiqijary, tc be incorrect in this instance. H 18 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS by disposing of their client's money in premature mqrtgages, tha sale of improved ground rents, and by numerous other device:^ oy which their clients make an advantageous use of their money and the attorneys create to themselves a lucrative business from the agreements, leases, mqrtgages, bonds a,nd other instruments of lav7, vyhich become necessary throughout such compUcated and intricate transactions. It is not necessary for the present purpose to enumerate the bad consequences and pernicious effects which arise from such an unnatural and forced enlarge- ment of the town, further than to observe, that it is the interest of those concerned in such buildings that they should be of as little cost as possible, preserving an attractive exterior, which Parker's stucco, coloured bricks and balconies, accomplish ; and a fashionble arrangeinent of rooms on the principal floors, embellished by the paper hanger, and a few flimsey marble chimney pieces, are the attractions of the interior. These are sufficient allurements to the public, and ensure the sale of the houses, which is the ultimate object of the builders ; and to this finery every thing out of sight is sacrificed, or, is no further an object of attention, than, that no defects in the constructive and substantial parts shall make their appearance while the houses are on sale ; and, it is to be feared that for want of these essen- tials which constitute the strength and permanency of houses, a veiy few years will exhibit cracked , walls, swagged floors, bulged fronts, crooked roofs, leaky gutters, inadequate drains and other ills of an originally bad constitution ; and, it is quite certain, without a renovation equal to rebuilding, that aU those houses, long, very long, before the expiration of the leases, will cease to exist, and the reversionary estate that the proprietors look for, will never be realized^ as it is not till the end of the builder's term that the proprietor of the fee will be entitled to the additional ground rents laid on by the builder. It is evi- dently, therefore, not the interest of the crown, that Mary-le- bone Park should be covered with houses of this description," The commissioners wisely and tastefully adopted Mr. Nash's plan, and their bosoms must glow with satisfaction at the results which are now so splendidly budding, and promising of future fruit, before their eyes. The noble appropriation of this royal domain, is in every re- spect worthy of the nation and of the metropolis. It is the ^ * S," -. * a ■■?• ?v) *- *■ S 4 ■ *; i|S s 4! C: ft «.■ Co ^.- « t- * ® «. & •-': r- e <•} * - . <* ^ ?;^/ •/ /- 1 4 1 ill ^ ^'^-^^J^ ill .« ^ ^ \" •^ s a ° 1 5 :^ -^ < i < 5 = ?. 1 = < = ' 3 -^ 2 y s r, i i S s , > V i^ '/. _ ,. ^ ^. « ,, ;^ ^^ ^ i- ,,, ^^ s_ ^ ,- ^ 5, = a g t, ji !- ■=! -J :*." ^5 = — ^ -; S v. o i; 0^ aS •/ H >• tj ^ ^ ^' N AH ISX,AH© 'i'SE ILAM.E & FAM,Td})F COilFL'pr vrjk'iUZ, 'h CX,AIEEIfCJE TEFiSiA'CS, Jfllbhahcd April 1". 1S28 by Jones J: C" 3AcLot\ .Place. MngElaTii H.oai. London. Drsjum bj/ T bo,' H, Sicplia-L THE COajISEWM AMID; FAIK.T ©ff THE XAKE lUES-IEWT'S PARE. 'jblisKed ApcillZ. 1628,' by Jones £; C? i./.c-Lori rlacc Kiagslani litteA London Drjwii by Tiio ti. Shepherd WEST (SATE. M-EGENT* Drmn, h^ 1 1,.. H tihcphc-j-.i i'-n^arod by W. VTallis. THK CENTM.1S OF €lUMKli^)i"J[..A\>f Jb) ^CJSK.l!iACE, MISGEMT'S FARIK.. I'uHisihea /yra W.IBZM \,y Jama t C- Tmiplo rf ft„ -M„,„, Hiisliuiy i,,u,m. I.oi.J,,,,. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 19 largest of the parks, and the trees and shrubs are becoming umbrageous and park-Uke. In performing a tour of the Regent's Park on a fine day, the enquirer into its beauties and merits should perform it leisurely and on foot. This will take some hours, or a long morning ; but two distinct visits, one generally to become acquainted with its geography, and the other specifically to examine its details, will be preferable. An engraved plan, which accompanies the present work, vdll be found greatly to facilitate this object. Its best approach is to go up Portland Place, turn to the left, under the beautiful Ionic colonnade of Park Crescent, survey the tasteful plantation of Park Square, and proceed along the New Road as far as the new parish church. Then cross over, and enter the park by the entrance called York Gate. Turn round, and take what is perhaps the best view of the church from the road, to which the gate makes a picturesque accessary. As we are now performing the oflBce of Cicerone in the general visit, we shall leave detail and criticism till the specific inspection. On entering the park, it may be as well to proceed for a few minutes to the elegant little bridge which faces you, and admire the fascinating beauties of the artificial lake which it. crosses, adorned as it is with rare and beautiful water fowl,, aquatic plants, and other appropriate embellishments. Return then to the main road, survey the architectural beauties of York Terrace, which extends to both sides of the entrance road. We shall not stop farther than to call yoijr attention to the palatial splendour of these two grand rows of buildings, which, instead of resembling a series of dwelling houses, carry upon their faces the semblance of the residence of a sovereign prince; Proceed then by Cornwall Terrace, the richness and correct- ness of style of whose architecture is aptly embelhshed by the sylvan scene before it. Pass then by the entrance from Baker Street, in a northerly direction, by the elegant arcade of Cla- rence Place, and by the fanciful .cupola? of Sussex. Place. Con- tinue your pedestrian treat, forgetting the driver's maxim of never looking to the right or left, and keeping; your eye con- tinually between your horse's ears-; which, as you have no horse to be troubled with, may rove deUghted " from earth to heaven, from heaven to earth," in pierpejtual transport at this scene of ever varying delight. 20 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. Those who can remember with us, padding over the poached soil, about ten years since, when the roads were forming, the canal digging, the plantations trenching, and the infant trees, looking like bundles of useless sprigs, being dropped into their places where now they have taken root and are flourishing ; may remember, at least we do, the aerial castles that we formed in our minds, which we were fearful would fail as such fragile architecture generally does. If they do so, they may perhaps agree with us, that the prophetic vision is more than realized. We next arrive at Hanover Terrace, still on the left hand, with all the sylvan beauties of the Park before it ; and a few detached villas of tasteful beauty. Behind their plantations that beneficial stream, the Regent's Canal, enters the northern circuit of the park, and conveys the produce of the inland part of our island, in a beautiful dell, to the bosom of old father Thames. In order then we pass by Albany Cottage, the residence of Mr. Raikes ; Hanover Lodge, Sir Robert Arbuthnot's ; Grove House, Mr. Greenough's ; and being arrived at nearly the northern extremity of the park, we incline to the eastward. We next pass by (the as yet unbuilt) Munster Terrace, named after one of the Hibernian royal titles, and by the beautiful site marked out for Carrick Terrace. Now we arrive at the north-eastern boundary of the paik ; let us sit down for a few minutes in one of the recesses, .and syrvey the delightful prospect before us. Surely the gardens which Dioclesian preferred to his throne, could scarcely have surpassed what these will be, when the present gigantic under- taking is accomplished. Cowley exclaimed, when excited by associations, such as might well be raised by the present en- chanting scene, — " Mefhlnks I see great Dioclesian walk Id the Salonian garden's shade. Which by his own imperial hands were made : I see him smile, methinks, as he does talk With the ambassadors, who come in vain T' entice him to a throne again, ' If I my friend,' said he, ' should to you show All the delights which in these gardens grow, 'Tis likelier far tliat yon with me should stay, Than 'tis that you should carry me away ; And trust me not, my friends, if every day 'raved "by "W. Jlacciiff. FAmiE TIILE.A©! EAST. IIiE©lSxfT''3 ffAIEK. iJia/TT 1" l':lo r. ^i:';pcei IPA3l3'£ TIIL]LA(E-:E east, IEIB©IEEfT'S IPABJi:, ■!-^7„ 1 ' """. 'i^^Q-Tiy Jones & C? Temple of -fke Uuses, IlLiis"tmiy Square London Eatfraveil "by "W". ItadcMf METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 21 I walk not here with more delight. Than ever after the most happy fight. In triamph to the capitol I rode, To thank the gods, and to be thought myaelf a god.' " What a prospect lies before us ? splendour, health, dressed rurality and comforts such as nothing but a metropolis can afford are spread around us. "Trim gardens," lawns and shrubs; towering spires, ample domes, banks clothed with flowers, all the elegancies of the town, and all the beauties of the country are co-mingled with happy art and blissful union. They surely must all be the abodes of nobles and princes ! No, the majority are the retreats of the happy free-bom sons of commerce, of the wealthy commonalty of Britain, who thus enrich and bedeck the heart of their great empire. Well might the poet ask with honest pride and patriotic exultation, " Where has commerce snch a mart. So rich, so throng'd, so drained and so supplied. As London — opulent, enlarged and still Increasing London? Babylon of old Nor more the glory of the earth than she, A more accomplished world's chief glory now." COWPEB. Before we proceed further, let us return a short distance and walk out of the north gate of the park, called Macclesfield Gate. This outlet is over a flat topped bridge, the road or via- duct of which is supported on arches sprung from the capital of iron columns of the Doric order. Under us winds the canal in a lovely dell. The grounds of the park descend to a precipitous bank which protects them from the incursions of the bargemen and other persons whose occupations lead them to frequent the canal and the towing path. The gate on the northern end of the bridge, which with others is closed at ten o'clock every night to all but those who are going to the houses within the park, is in three divisions, a carriage way and two posterns for foot passengers divided by stone piers, and a plain lodge on the western side for the attendant porter. See the Plate of Mac- clesfield Bridge. Now return we, and proceed onward, bearing a little to the eastward till we come to the eastern entrance of the park. See the Plate of the East Gate. This is north of the noble pile of 22 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. buildings of the Corinthian order, flanked by two lofty arches decorated with columns of the same graceful order of archi- tecture, which is called Chester Terrace. This gateway or entrance, which we believe is to be called Chester Gate, leads to the great north road by Camden Town, Hampstead and Highgate. It has more pretensions to archi- tectural character than either of the other gates, being flanked by the well proportioned stone lodges, and its entrance divided by Doric columns. The entablature, which, with the whole of the composition is Palladian, runs through, and connects the lodges over which it finishes in two pediments. The columns are of cast iron, and fluted after the manner of the Italian architects, and the whole order is selected from their best works. The columns have bases and plinths, with cubical sub-plinths of granite beneath them, as if they were too short for their places, and required the aids of such appendages to raise them to their architraves. This is a fault never found in the pure and sublime architecture of Greece, and rarely in that of ancient Rome, except where they stand as divisions or piers between steps, the column standing on the uppermost, as in Wren's beautiful colonnade at Greenwich hospital. Each lodge has a well proportioned semi-circular headed window towards the park, and the face of the building is broken and diversified by rustics. The composition is prett^ and Italian like, it harmonizes well with the sceneiy, but the tasteful connoisseur must forget every recollection of a Propy- leium, when viewing this architectural entrance of the Regent's Park, for it must be allowed, that from the time of the Romans to the present day, all deviations from Grecian art, have in the same proportion been deviations from beauty. Over the two central columns is a projecting and raised blocking course, which, contrary to the rules of good architec- ture, does not rise so high as the side pavillions, and is more- over weakened in character by a row of projecting reeds in a panel, which give it the appearance of wood scored by a car- penter's reeding plane. Nor does it accord with the sides, which gives the centre an appearance of depression. Sir Christopher Wren* says that " fronts ought to be elevated in • Elmes's Life of Wren, Appendix, page 1'21. l.iLiheplierd. dd; EASII' ©AITE, mi®-lEMT"£. FAIR.IK. TO THE R"^ HON C. ARBUTHNOT , M.P. &c tc, THIS PLATE IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, ' BT THE EDITOR Published March 31. 1627 Ty Jones & C? 3,Acian Flaee. Kintfslana Road. London tIJLAMEHClE TIERMACIE, KE^IEHT'S IPAMK, TO HIS SOYAL Ul'-:i:.'KSS THE BDKf OF CLABENCE. ir.Scc icTSIS PLATE IS HUMBLY DEDICATED, ' BYTHX FUBLISRKKS hihllBhed Mm.1i .;i, 1827. by Jones 8c C? 3^con Haci'.JCngdaadHQaO ,].oudon. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 23 the middle, not the comers ; because the middle is the place of the greatest dignity, and first arrests the eye ; and rather pro- jecting forward in the middle, than hollow. For these reasons, pavillions at the corners are naught ; because they make both faults— a hollow and depressed front. The ancients elevated the middle with a tympan and statues, or a dome^ The ti>- umphal arches, which now seem flat, were elevated by the magnificent figure of the victor in his chariot with four horses a breast, and other statues accompanying it." A trophy or other pyramidal composition placed on this centre acroterium would remove this objection. As a composition in the Italian or Palladian style of archi- tecture, as adapted to garden scenery, the East Gate of the Regent's Park is harmonious in design, and graceful in propor- tion. As the chimneys could not very well be hidden, they are very properly ornamented. The iron carriage way and the pos- tern gates accord in style with the rest of the composition. The view selected by the artist, Mr. T. H. Shepherd, gives a favourable display of this handsome gateway. We now proceed to the south, having the new hospital and chapel of St. Catherine on the left, and its old English looking house for the master (Sir Herbert Taylor), on our right. We pass by the row of mansions called Cumberland Terrace, and approach Chester Terrace, its lofty arches and spacious planta- tion; till Cambridge Terrace, the last on the east, connects itself with the towering majesty of the Cupola, and well pro- portioned Doric portico of Mr. Hornor's prodigious imdertaking, the Coliseum, intended as a panorama of the metropolis and its environs, from an elevation loftier than the summit of the cross of St. Paul's Cathedral. This terminates the circuit, and leads us into Park Square, on the east side by the Diorama, where the powerful pictorial illusions of Messrs. Bouton and Daguere, have so often delighted the amatuers and cognoscenti of the metropolis. We now return by Park Square, leaving its fine gardens and splendid circus, opening its defiles to the vista of Portland Place, on our left. At the north-west angle of Ulster Street begins Ulster Terrace, which passed, leads to Ulster Street, opening into the new road, opposite Harley Street. Tlien we continue by Brunswick Place, a less ostentatious row of 24 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. buildings, and to the eastern division of the before mentioned magnificent terrace, which bears the name of the lamented Duke of York, whose illustrious memory is about to be justly commemorated by a national monument. The entrance between the two divisions, of this splendid terrace is called York Gate, and is the subject of a Plate, which gives a view of the architecture on each side, terminated with a view of Mary-le-bone church in the distance. The gate itself consists of ornamental iron work of no prevailing style of archi- tecture. The houses themselves and the church will be de- scribed in our future pages, where they will furnish subjects for distinct plates. Having now made a circuit of the park, we shall conduct you to the interior, and point out the sites of the various villas that are built, and proposed to be built in this tenestrial paradise. It is proposed by the commissioners of his Majesty's woods and forests, under whose tasteful, directions, not only Mary-le- bone Park, but also the splendid improvements of Regent Street, Carlton Palace, and those which are about to commence in the Strand, are being carried on; to erect no more than twenty-six villas within the park. The sites of these villas are all marked on the plan which accompanies this work. Several are already built, the plantations for the rest are completed and growing, and preparations are making, as you may perceive on the northern side, for the erection of others, and for the grounds and menageries of the Zoological Society. Those which are built, belong to the Marquess of Hertford ; to James Burton, Esq. an architect of eminence, (to whom the metropolis is indebted for many fine improvements about Rus- sell and Tavistock Squares, Regent Street, and other places) ; John Maberly, Esq. M. P. called St. John's Lodge ; Grove House, to George Bellas Greenough, Esq. ; Hanover Lodge to Colonel Sir Robert Arbuthnot, K. C. B. ; Albany Cottage to Thomas Raikes, Esq. ; and South Villa, the first in passing the bridge opposite York Gate, to William Henry Cooper, Esq. Mr. Burton's villa called the Holme, designed by his son Decimus Burton, Esq. is the subject of one of our plates, and will be described when we come to it. tlrawnVp- Tho* H. Shepherd. , THE KESIDE-KCE OF THE I^IAE.QTTIS OF TTZ^-.Tr ORD TO '.rHO^J THIS FL^TZ i:, ?.E 3P r_ CT yri^^-v tr::cK.i3EX) P-JDlished I1ec.i5.ia27. by Jones Sc C° 3,/j::in PUce. Kmdsla.TidP.02.d..l:r^eoiL ^SH. ESg -JLFCHITECT TO THZ i::";G- JiL:^; . 'I'lllS FEA.TE T: RE SPE C 'TyTTLET iEDICA-TEl,- p-^clish(;d T"'.- ^j 1227. bv Jonet ^c C? : Ac"--or_ lis,ctf lun'^:iland P.oecL ( cn-i^v . Dram bvTho HSh^Dfed ^'^''A^H, TBE HESIDENCE OF JOHN MABERLY ESQ: MP TO -WHOM THIS PLATE I.' RESPEC TFtTLLY LNECRIEZD. Published May 5. 1827. by Jones & C° 3.Acion Flace.K]tidslaTid Koad . London irawii by Tho'H, Shepherd. tuoravciL "jv TSirber rubhslied Julv 2 i \&rv. hy Jones ic C! 3. AcLon PlaccKinosland liuad , London. Dra^v-n bj Thof tCSheptc^-fl., THE SXSIDXNCE OF W^ H.COOPEa, ESQf Publishci April 26 I828,"bj.o-e3 1- C?3 .kloE Pis.ce :urLgSiE."d Ans-o. Toiido- J>cawn by Tbo* fi,Siflptera. Engraved, by I TlE;i-i]iiAC:E. IPiTE'CEFIT'S PAKK. ^ubliehca April 26. ;S^3 W-o-cs &: C.^Cw ..^t"s o-iQ .tjs.^ r.ojidon METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 25 As our round has rather fatigued you, let us sit down on one of these seats that the commissioners have hberally scattered about the park, and before paying a visit to Mr. Burton's tasteful villa, we will chat a little about our opinions as to what a villa is and should be. With the Greeks we can have little to do. We know but little of their domestic architecture, save and except, about their palaces and hovels; and these indeed more from their writers than from their ruins. Of the Romans we know more, but I am not going to dis- tract you with long discussions about their architecture m general, but only to discuss with you a little concerning their villas, which vrith those of their bastard successors the Itahans, has had much influence upon the domestic architecture of England. Nay, do not start, madam, at my epithet about your favourite Italians, I mean the word as of their architecture only, as the noble author of Childe Harold does of their lan- guage, when he calls it " that soft bastard Latin, WTiich melts like Icisses from a female month, And sounds as if it should be writ on satin. With syllables which breathe of the sweet sonth." So of their architecture I adapt another quotation from the same illustrious bard, and you may see it illustrated around you. They, the Italian architects I mean, (and I reckon Messrs. Nash, Joseph Gwiltand Ware to be as much Italian architects, as I do Messrs. Soane and Smirke, to be Grecian), attempted too much variety in compositions which are to be seen at once, and in such cases, too much variety creates confusion. Hence their architecture like their language possesses all the vices of beauty, and is too rich, too redolent of charms, too redundant in variety, has too many parts "joined " as the noble poet says. " By no quite -lawful marriage of the arts. Might shock a connoisseur ; but when combin'd Form'd a whole which, irregular in parts. Yet left a grand impression on the mind." A villa, as generally understood at the present day, is a rural mansion or retreat, for wealthy men. The palace with us, K 26 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. belongs to the sovereign and is sometimes applied to the epis- copal residence of a bishop. The mansion implies the residence of state of a nobleman or gentleman, and sometimes the house of the lord of a manor. The villa, on the contrary is the mere personal property and residence of the owner, where he retires to enjoy himself with- out state. It is superior to the ornamented cottage, standing as it were between the cottage cornee of the French, and the mansion or hall of the English. The term is never more pro- perly applied than when given to such suburban structures as those which are rising around us, serving as they may well do from situation as to the town, and from position as to rural beauty. Quite unlike those merchant's and sugar-baker's boxes which crowd the sides of Clapham Road and Kennington Common, Subnrban mllas high-way side retreats. That dread the encroachment of oar growing streets. Tight boxes, neatly Rash'd, and in a blaze With all a July's snn*s collected rays. Delight the citizen, who, gasping there. Breathes clouds of dust, and calls it country air. CowPEK. With the Romans the villa was quite a different affair. Pliny's villas at Laurentinum, Tuscum, Tusculum, Tybur and Preneste, of which he has left such ample and entertaining descriptions in his epistles, were complete mansions, with resi- dences for retinues of servant^, families of his friends, whole regiments of slaves, and other auxiliaries. Hadrian's viUa was a city of palaces, temples and theatres, with an hypodrome, a naumachia, a palestra, a nympheiim, a stadium, a pretorium, splendid galleries of pictures and statues, libraries, porticoes, residences for his ministers, ofl&cers, &c. barracks for his soldiers, and an immensity of apartments fitted up in a style of magnificence and splendour, worthy of a Roman emperor. The villas of Cicero, of LucuUus, and of many other eminent Romans, which are so numerous and so thickly set at Tusculum, and to which they retired from the fatigues of their professions, are more in accordance with our ideas of such a structure. So was that which the infamous Agrippina, according to TBIE HOl^ME, RIEGEHT'S PARK. THE KESIPENCE OT lAllZS ilJiTON EOq? ARCHITECT, TO WHOM THIS PI^TE IS KESPECTFTJI.I.-r msCHTBEI; Published Sep L' 1827 IjyJones&CiAcioD Place Kingsliud i.TEi Lonion . iU'L^T'ESi. TEIiiifiiCi,. Ii.'£,'&£tUT '::> iiPAiEtK. THE RZSIItZNTG OF "WHICH. THIS PI-ATE IS RESPECTFULET HTSCRIBEE. Published Sep. ;_3 1327 byjones S: C°l/tloii H»<:e.K"ii!g«lijid Ro«d. l.ondor METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 27 Tacitus, so often made the scene of her dissolute pleasures in the same vicinity. The villas of the modem Romans are nothing better than large city palaces removed ihto the country. They consist of rooms of state, not of domestic convenience, such as we asso- ciate with the word villa. They seem more for show than use, and if properly named, would be called palaces, instead of villas. Such is the villa Ludovisi, such is the villa Aldobran- dini, and such is the villa Albani, whose magnificent galleries and spacious porticoes are filled with the most precious collec- tion of ancient sculpture that any private cabinet ever con- tained, and which is as appropriately called a villa as if we were to name the spacious mansions of Chatsworth or Blenheim by the name of the villa Devonshire, or villa Marlborough. The villa Mondragone has more windows than there are days in the year, and the villa Borghese bears as much resemblance to a viUa as any of those just cited. Palladio's villas more approach the utility and comfort of such a structure. They are admirably adapted to the country and climate for which he designed them, and are models of beauty and arrangement. Inigo Jones introduced the Palladian villa into England with more taste than propriety. Lord Burlington continued its practice, and accomplished its greatest beauties in his beau- tiful gem at Chiswick ; but it is too cold, too dreary, and above all, too comfortless, for our climate and our habits of society. Campbell, Ware and Brettingham built mansions both large and small, but scarcely any thing to be remembered as a villa. Wren built town houses, and Vanburgh palaces, but neither of them accomplished a villa. The houses of the former, many of which are to be seen in London, and are commemorated in his memoirs, cannot be considered, according to his own canons, as architectural: for he conformed to the French taste and Parisian fashion of the day, and satirised them by avowing that " archi- tecture aims at eternity, and is therefore the only thing inca- pable of modes and fashions." The various villas in the park, the consideration of which have occasioned this digression, shall now be visited, if you are sufficiently rested to proceed. The first that we arrive at, is that of Mr. Burton, which he has named the Holme, a Saxon 28 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. word, meaning a river island. Good views of it are obtained over the lake and island whence it derives its name, from Hanover Terrace, along Sussex Place, and from Clarence Terrace. From the gardens opposite these buildings our view is taken. Its charming plantations and lovely evergreens^ on a fine autumnal day, when we viewed it from the opposite grounds last year, and surveyed the glassy surface of the silver lake, " Sloped dowowards to its brinks and stood. With their green faces fixed upon the flood." liOHD Byhon. This villa, appears from the grounds, to consist of but two stories, the principal and the chamber story ; but in reality it consists of three, the offices being contained in a basement, which is concealed by a lawned terrace, and protected from damps by concealed area walls. This story is lighted and ap- proached from the outside by areas on its flanks, which are hidden by the plantations. The entrance is on the opposite front to that shown in the view, under an Ionic tetrastyle portico. It consists of a door and two windows, one of which lights the studyiand the other the eating room. This portico corresponds in width with the bow, or rotunda in the garden front, and is covered with a well pro- portioned pediment ; and the windows agree with those seen in the view : except those under the portico which are smaller, and light the stair-case on one side, and a closet or small dressing room on the other. The door is in the centre, and opens to a hall 16-0 by 10*0, with only one door besides that by which you enter. This door leads to a corridor that communicates with all the apartments of the principal story and the stairs to the chamber story, which are on the left side (on enteiing) of the hall. The apartments consist of a handsome drawing room which occupies the bow, a library on the side next the conser- vatory and a billiard room on the other side. These three rooms, occupy the garden front, and can be easily thrown together into one or two apartments, by means of large folding doors. At the back of the library is ,a spacious dining room, entered under a circular recess ; and behind the billiard room, which is as large as the eating room, is a study or gentleman's room, in a retired situation suited to its purposes. The chambers and METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 29 dormitories are above stairs. The bow is decorated by attached coliunns of the same order as those in the entrance front, and the entablature is continued on every face of the building except the wings, where the architrave is omitted to make room for the dressings of the windows. The bow is surmounted by an attic, and covered with a well proportioned cupola. Each end o? the flanks are finished with a pediment formed by the roof itself, not as in some modern instances, by an appliqu^ of a different shape. The length of the building on the ground story is sixty-six feet, and the depth on its flanks forty-four feet. The style of the building is villa-like and characteristic, and the appearance from the grounds rural and pleasing. It is the work of a young architect, and is creditable to his rising abilities. There is time yet to inspect another of these suburban villas, if you are not too tired : — therefore in our way to our friend's house in St. John's Wood, where we are to dine, we will pass again along the terraces that adorn the outer circle. Look ! what a fine effect the portico of the new church has, now the setting sun illuminates its northern aspect. It is singular, that most of our best porticoes and fagades have this dull and sun- less aspect. From the India House to Somerset House, and thence to Carlton Palace, which by the way is now being re- moved, and again, this before us, all face the dreary north. Look ! I say, at the effect, (the detail and proportions we will defer till to-morrow), see how the long gray shadows contrast with the mellow sunny hue of the lights ; and how playfully they break, and cross each other. What a beautiful carved frame, in appearance, the houses on both sides of York Gate form to the church, (see the print,) and how well the Ionic orders of the houses carries on the eye to the richer Corinthian of the church. Well, let us proceed dinnerward, and cast another look as we proceed at the terraces on the left, and at the beautiful plantations and lovely lake on our right. See ! the sparkling undulating line of beauty, formed by the curved neck of that swan, saihng majestically by the dark green shrubs of the Holme. The united powers of the magic pencils of Ruysdael and Claude would hardly do justice to that bit of brilliant nature. See again at that charming groupe of (angels, I was L 30 METROPOLITAN IMPEOVEMiiNTS. going to say,) children, who are sporting between the shrubs. By heaven, I could stay here all day feasting my eyes, till my more corporeal nature would command me to attend to other senses. Before we cross the bridge at Macclesfield Gate, I will call your attention to the picturesque groupe before us, formed by Albany Cottage in the fore-ground, Hanover Lodge a little be- hind it, and Grove House, that which has the Ionic portico and niches, in the distance. GEOvp House, the residence of George Bellas Greenough, Esq. is another of Mr. Decimus Burton's elegant designs, and is com- pletely in the villa style of architecture. It is larger and has more pretensions to architectural character, than that of his fathei. The garden front, which forms the principal feature in the print, is divided into three portions, a centre and two wings. The vdngs are backed with the flanks of the side elevations, which give a value to their outlines. The centre of the garden front, is composed of a tetrastyle portico of the Ionic order, raised, on a terrace. Three windows fill the apertures between the columns, and a long panel over them, gives an apparent height to the apartment thus decorated. The wings have recesses, the soffites of which are supported by three quarter columns of the Doric order. Between these columns are well proportioned niches, each of which contains a statue. No other window or door appears on the front, which gives a remarkable and pleasing casino or pkasure-house cha- racter to the house. The portico, which is composed of one of the purest of the Grecian orders, is surmounted by a well proportioned pediment and acroteria; and the cornice of the wings, by a blocking course, the beauty of which is injured, by its integrity being broken and its character weakened, through raisingthe angles and depressing the centre, contrary to all the sound rules of the art, and of the elements of beauty. The curvilinear dipping lines of these finials to the wings are discordant to the eye, and should have been avoided. Sir Christopher Wren * says, that "an artist ought to be jealous of novelties, in which fancy binds the judgment ; and to think his judges, as well as those • Elmes's Life of Wrbv, Appendix, p. 120. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 31 that are to live five centuries after him, as those of his own time. That which is commendable now for novelty will not be a new invention to posterity, when his works are often imitated, and when it is not known which is the original ; but the glory of that which is good is eternal." The entrance front, also consists of three parts, or divisions, a centre and two vdngs. The centre, however, is kept subor- dinate to the garden or principal front, by having no pediment, but is finished with a simple straight blocking course over the level Ionic cornice, which is continued through both fronts and flanks, as the theme or subject of the composition. This variety of uniformity gives perfect beauty and an Ionic character to the house ; although the lower portico and decorations of the niches have a Doric accompaniment. These uniformities carried alternately in the fronts, aiFect the eye, as the key notes in music, or the alternate rhymes in poetry, do the ear. The blocking course is finished by a panelled acroterium, surmounted by a sub-cornice and lesser blocking course ; shorter by about a fourth than its plinth, and carried into a pyramidal form by well proportioned trasses, which have the merit of appearing really as supporters to their centre. Under the architrave of the leading entablature are the windows of the chamber story. Three in the centre and one in the flanks. The entrance door is protected by a spacious semi-circular portico of the true Doric order, which harmonizes with the livelier Ionic, as Linley's inimitable violoncello does with Spagnoletti's brilliant fiddle : — or to take a higher character, like one of Mozart's majestic accompaniments, to his brilliant and inventive arias. The blocking course of this order is carried horizontally in a straight line, and vertically in a beautiful curve, censuring by its harmony the discord of its weak and inefiicient neighbour, I cannot help again quoting Wren while we are here, although our friend may be getting warm, and his dinner cold, by our delay. It is from the same unfinished sketch that I before quoted from, and is germain to our subject. " Beauty, fimmess and convenience," says our great master, " are the principles of architecture : the first two depend upon geometrical reasons of optics and statics ; the third only makes the variety. There are natural causes of beauty. Beauty," ob- 32 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. serves he, making a fine definition, " is a hannony of objects, begetting pleasure by the eye." Then he proceeds to say that there are two causes of beauty, "natural and customary. Natural is from geometry, consisting in uniformity, that is, equality and proportion. Customary beauty is begotten by the use of our own senses to those objects which are usually pleasing to us for other causes; as familiarity, or particular inclination, breeds a love to things not in themselves lovely. Here lies the great occasion of errors; here is tried the architect's judgment ; but always the time test is natural or geometrical beauty." Put your tasteless watch into your hungry fob, I vnll not detain you from your dinner many minutes, and the subject is so apt, that I must finish it. We will take gallant's law, and lay the blame on the enticing beauties that have surrounded and accompanied us. " Geometrical figures," continues my master, "are naturally more beautiful than other irregular figures ; in this, all consent as to a law of nature. Of geome- trical figures, the square and the circle, are most beautiful. Next, the parallelogram and the oval. Straight lines are more beautiful than curved : next to straight lines, equal and geometrical flexures. An object elevated in the middle" (mind that friend Decimus, and violate no more the purity of thy blocking courses) " is more beautiful than depressed." The general composition of Grove House, accords (excepting only the inharmonious discord of the aforesaid blocking course, which affects the eye like a badly resolved chord in music does the ear), with the definition of beauty, that I have just quoted. The principal, or garden front, is harmonious, both in its principal features and in its accessories ; the entrance front is equally harmonious in itself, and secondary to the leading ideas, forming an admirable tenor to the soprano fagade of the garden, and the whole forms a pretty architectural sinfonia of a few parts ; the composer wisely leaving the more magnifi- cent and grander features of the art for fuller compositions : — to such as where " The pillar'd dome inagniGc heaves Ita ample roof; sad Ininry withiD, Poors oot her glittering stores." Thomson. METROPOUTAN IMPROVEMENTS. 33 The interior of this modest mansion is commodiously ar- ranged, both for convenience and utility. The study of this department of our art, convenience, particularly in domestic ar- chitecture, is one of the most useful, and at the same time, one of the most difficult parts of an architect's profession. Sir Henry Wotton, in discussing this subject, says, that " every man's proper mansion-house and home, being the theatre of his hospi- tality, the seat of self-fruition, the comfortable part of his own life, the noblest of his son's inheritance, a kind of private princedom ; nay, to the possessors thereof, an epitome of the whole world, may well deserve, by these attributes, according to the degree of the masters, to be decently and delightfully adorned. For which end there are two arts attending on ar- chitecture, like two of her principal gentlewomen, to dress and trim their mistress— picture and sculpture." I know not what our old friend Fuseli would have said to this doctrine of making painting a dressing maid to architecture. Flaxman would have shaken his venerable head at any one who would have promul- gated such an heresy concerning his art. Courage ! I see land, our friend's house is in view, the chimneys are delightfully tele- graphing us with their smoak, and I have just time to finish the diplomatic-architecto-critic's opinion of the three arts ; " between whom," continues he, " before I proceed any farther, I will venture to determine an ancient quarrel about their pre- cedency, with this distinction ; that in the garnishing of fabrics, sculpture no doubt must have the pre-eminence, as being indeed of nearer affinity to architecture itself, and consequently, the more natural and suitable ornament. But, on the other side, to consider these two arts, as I shall do, philosophically, and not mechanically, an excellent piece of painting is to my judgment the more admirable object, because it comes near an artificial miracle to make divers distinct eminences appear upon a flat by force of shadows, and yet the shadows themselves not to appear, which I conceive the uttermost value, and virtue of a painter, and to which veiy few have arrived." As we have yet a few minutes, I must say something of the horticultural decorations, which " garnish " this villa. 34 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. They are at present young and incomplete, but looking with a pictorial eye, at their present capabilities and prospects of future growth, they are beautifully diversified, and give a characteristic back-ground and accompaniment to the principal feature— rthe house. 35 CHAP. II. "Foontains and Trees, our wearied pride do please. E'en in the midst of gilded palaces; And in our to^rn-s, that prospect gives delight, Which opens roand the country to our sight. Sprat lOUE, OF THE REGENTS PAKE, BEGINNING AT YORK GATE — YORK GATE AND THL NEW CHURCH OF ST. MAKY-LE-BONE, THE WORK OF TWO ARCHITECTS, CONSI- DERED A9 ONE COMPOSITION CONVERSION BY ACT OF PARLIAMENT OF AN IONIC CHAPEL INTO A COKIKTHIAN CHURCH — OBSTINACY OF THE BASES, CONTRASTED WITH THE SUBSERVIENCY OF THE CAPITALS YORK TERRACE — CORNWALL TERRACE-rA-RCHITECTURE COMPARED WITH MUSIC — CLARENCE TERRACE — OBSERVATIONS — SUSSEX , PLACE — HANOVER TERRACE — DESCRIP- TIONS OF AND REMARKS ON ALBANY COTTAGE HANOVER LODGE GROVE HOUSE, THE VILLA OF MR. GREENOUGH THE MARQUESS OF HERTFORD'S VILLA MACCLESFIELD BRIDGE — THE GROUNDS OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY — THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH AND HOSPITAL OF ST. CATHERINE THE MASTER'S RESl- ' DENCE CHESTER TERRACE — CAMBRIDGE TERRACE — MR. HORNOb's COLISEUM THE DIORAMA — MR. SOANe's NEW CHURCH. Good morning to you gentlemen, we are betimes and punc- tual, and it is well we are so, for we have much to do. The morning, however, is auspicious, and we go to our task with affection. Let us, as the French say, begin with the beginning, and by walking gently along the New Road, enter upon our undertaking at York Gate. To see this place (for York Gate is not only the entrance gateway to the park, but also comprises the two rows of man- sions that flank it, forming an architectural avenue to the park on entering it, and a brilliant bprder to the church on leaving it) we should go upon the bridge. The entrance is formed by the porches of the eastern and western ends of York Terrace, which is thus divided into two halves. These porches give the effect of lodges to the gates which cross the avenue, and break the perpendicularity of the line of houses. Of the terrace itself, I will say a word 36 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. or two as we pass round the park, after examining the two rows of mansions that flank this handsome entrance to it. One side is similar to the other, and consists of a centre and two wings. The wings project from the main body of the building, and are plain in their elevation, except where their perpendicular lines are broken by the string course, which forms the plinth to the stylobate of the Ionic order of the centre, and by the cornices of the principal and attic orders. The centres recede, and are decorated by semi-circular headed windows in the ground story ; by a colonnade of the Ionic order, to the principal and two pair stories, and by an attic sur- mounting the cornice of the principal order. The inter-columni- ations, are appropriated to the windows ; those of the principal ftory having balconies formed by a balustrade, between the pedestals of the order. Both the buildings are insulated, their northern extremities being bounded by the mews and entrances to the houses of York Terrace, and their southern ends by the buildings and gardens of Nottingham Terrace, which reach, to the New Road. Sefore we proceed to a brief examination of the church, let me call your attention to the rich and varied effect of the three architectural fagades of which this stereotomous scene, like that of Palladio's sculptured scenery at the Olympic theatre of Vicenza, is composed. The western front is in positive shadow, relieved only by the atmospheric reflection, that faintly deli- neates the details, and gives a massive effect approaching to that of moon-light ; while its opposite brother sparkles with aJl the radiance of the morning sun, having shadows and lights, reflexes and demitints in varied harmony. The church con- nects this light and shade, this treble and base, as it were, of the composition, by a middle tint of half shadow, a sort of tenor to the others, and is illuminated into complete detail by the reflected lights from the eastern front of the buildings, from the surface of the road in its front, and from the atmosphere. These lights produce almost the effect of perfect day-light without sun-shine, upon the portico and aisles of the church ; and give softened instead of cast shadows, like those in sun-shine, and the west front is comparatively dark, from the excessive light of the eastern building. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 37 They form a complete architectural pictorial symphony of three parts, in perfect harmony as a composition, although the work of two masters. True it is, there are some defects in the detail, the attic cornice is too trifling and petite, and the upper blocking course too insignificant, and not exactly in good keeping with the rest, or in good taste : — but, when the adapter of the ac- companiments (Mr. Nash), has succeeded so well in completing the whole subject, of which the church, the theme as it may be called of the composition, is the work of another artist (the late Mr. Hardwick), and rendered it so picturesque and harmo- nious as a whole ; we must not seek too rigidly for the accidental carelessness of an appogiatura note or two, that may offend against the strict rules of the art, the entire composition being so pleasing and satisfactory. One more look, as that passing - cloud is beautifully varying the bright lines of the columns with a dioramic effect, and then we will cross the road, and take a closer view of the new church. The New Chuech of St. Maey-le-bone. The first church of this parish was dedicated, say the anti- quaries, to St. John, and the second one, of which I have before spoken, to the Virgin Mary. Of this idol of the Catholic church, in those days England possessed many, even as there are still a plurality of Madonnas in those countries where the Roman Catholic faith prevails. This saint in particular, was called St. Mary of, or at, the bourn, and now by corruption and acceptation, St. Mary-le-bone, which, with your leave I shall call it, with the vulgar million, leaving its etymology and correct orthography to the wise few, who patronize word-catching and antiquarianism. The original church stood on or near the present court-house of the parish, at the end of Mary-le-bone Lane, near Oxford Street. The second church was built on the site, of a chapel near the upper end of High Street; which becoming dilapidated, was taken down in the year 1741, and a new one, now called the parish chapel, erected in its place. It is, as Cobbett says, in The Rejected Addresses, " a plain brown brick edifice." 38 METEOPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. This church becoming inadet[uate to the population and re- spectability of the parish, in spite of the many chapels of ease which had been built within its circuit, the parishioners for many years past had been endeavouring to procure the erection of a new parish . church, commensurate with their wants. In 1770 they procured an act of parliament for building one, for making a new cemetery, and other purposes connected there- with ; and a design for its construction by Sir William Cham^ bers was approved by the proper authorities. In 1772 or 1773 the vestrymen procured a new and enlarged act, empowering them to provide an additional public cemetery, and to erect a new pariah chapel of ease. The plot of gromid before us, was therefore purchased and enclosed, but no farther steps were taken till after the passing of a fourth act in 1811, which re- pealed all the former acts, and gave new powers to the vestfy- raen and their successors. These gentlemen, therefore, detennined in the beginning of the year 1813 to build a new chapel of ease on this spot, and adopted a design for such purpose, made by Thomas Hardwick, Esq. The works were accordingly commenced in the July of that year, and the edifice was proceeding rapidly to completion, when the building was suddenly stopped ; and various altera- tions effected. It was then much smaller and of a different order, the Ionic. Some of the capitals, I well remember, were carved, and I believe one or two were erected upon their proper shafts. When this smaller building was at this stage of its operations, the select vestry came to the resolution of converting their incipient chapel of ease, into a complete pamA cAwrcA : and as parliament is proverbially said to be omnipotent, they pro- cured another act to empower them to make that metamoiphosis, and to convert, by its magic influence, good Ionic columns into substantial Corinthians. This occasioned a perfect chaos among the materials and elements of the building ; which, when order was restored, all the shafts of the Ionic columns became elongated to Corinthian proportions, and were surmounted by capitals of that splendid order. But the humble attic bases of the original design, not having the fear of being called to the bar of the house before their eyes, would not give way to the parliamentaiy enactment, and remain to this day vouching for their Ionian origin. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 39 The more modest maidenly tower, was also compelled to resign her claims, in order to make way for the riper and more matured beauties of a sedate matronly campanile steeple. The aisle-like additions of the stair-ways to the galleries, received the embroidered decorations of a pair of orthodox columns, the tetrastyle Ionic porch of the chapel was extended to the hexas- tyle Corinthian portico of the church, and various other altera- tions were made, to give the daughter chapel, now married by authority of parliament, the character of a, mother church. When completed and consecrated, the new edifice was named, with all due solemnity, the parish church of St. Mary-le-bone ; and was invested with all the rights and privileges of its de- crepit and divorced predecessor, which was obliged to retire into the humble rank of parish chapel, and to act as arhandmaid to its more favoured, and more youthful successor. The Duke of Portland, as rector of the parish, nominates the curate, who is to be licensed by the Bishop of London. This ecclesiastical oflacer is now paid a stipend suitable to the rank and wealth of his flock. But, as a contrast to the present day, Mr. Lysons informs us in his valuable researches into the history of the environs of liondon, that in 1511 the curate's stipend was only thirteen shillings a year, which was paid by Thomas Hobson, then lessee under the priory of Blakemore. In 1650 the impropriation was valued at £80 a year, and the curate was paid £15 a year, his other emoluments averaging generally about the same sum. From the prodigious increase of first-rate buildings, and of population in the parish, particularly in the Regent's Park, the contingencies of the minister's stipend are now such as to make it divisible into several valuable benefices. The plan of this church, like most of those in the metropolis, is a parallelogram, with its longest sides distributed to the north and south, instead of to the east and west, as is usual with Christian churches. This method of construction, which throws the principal or entrance front to the north, and the altar to the south, is an arrangement that doubtlessly was thought of but little importance when its original destination was for a Chapel ; but is objectionable in many points of view, as I will presently shew you, in a Church. The north front is elongated by lateral projections to the east and west, which are both faced by detached columns. These 40 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. wings contain the staircases which lead to the galleries. The south ends of the east and west fronts are also elongated by similar projections, which, lying diagonally in relation to the main building, form internally a semi-hexagonal recess for the altar ; and externally, that to the eastward a direct portico or fagade of entrance from High Street, and that to the westward a corresponding form, which, however, faces only the church- yard. The eastern diagonal wing, contains a vestibule and staircase to the gallery, and to the private family pews above, which have the heterodox and profane appearance of the private boxes of a dramatic theatre. The western con-esponding ap- pendage, contains a similar staircase upon a smaller scale, and a vestry room below, and family pews corresponding with those opposite to them, above. Before entering the church, the doors of which fortunately for us are open, we will take a view of the principal elevation now before us. The portico, which is raised upon six steps, is Corinthian, of the proportions and after the chaste example of the Pantheon at Rome, and is hexastyle in front. It is crowned by a proper entablature, and a well proportioned pediment. Behind the principal range of columns, which have a return column and an anta on each flank of the portico, are three doorways, with well proportioned architraves and dressings. The centre entrance leads to the nave, and the sides to the aisles and galleries. The elevation is divided into two stories by a string course, on which, in front, are two semi-circular headed windows over the side doors, and between the four central columns, is a long blank sunk panel, which was in the architect's original design, filled with a basso-rilievo representing the entry of Jesus Christ into Jerusalem. Few subjects of sacred history, could be either more appropriate to a Christian edifice than this narrative, the selection of which is highly creditable to the taste and judgment of this able pupil of Sir William Chambers, or compose better for a sculptural embel- lishment to a Christian temple. The select vestry could not do better than to order Mr. Westmacott, whom the Royal Academy have with great judgment elected professor of sculpture, to fill up the void by a sculptural representation of this very appro- priate and analogous subject from his able hand ; and thus complete the principal elevation of their handsome church. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 41 The ceiling of the portico is divided into panels hy the archi- traves from the columns to the wall or cell of the building, which are crossed by the epistylium of the columns in flank. These panels are filled with flowers of a broad, bold and appro- priate character, peculiarly suitable for their situation. " Honour to whom honour is due," says a high authority, therefore I should have been sorry had we left the portico with- out noticing the inscription over the centre doorway ; which, like that of the portico of Agrippa from which this is copied, records the honoured names of its pious founders. " This Church was ehected at the expense of the parishioners, and consecrated vi. february, a.d. mdcccxviii. Sir James Graham, Bart. 3 George Allen, J The Duke op Portland.) " churchwardens. 5N,J _ „ , sidesmen. John Russell, I had almost forgotten my promise of animadverting upon the practice of reversing, or neglecting, the ancient custom of building churches east and west, which makes the entrance or portico face the west, and the altar or posticum face the east or rising sun. To say nothing of religious principle in this mode of construction, which howeyer, like most principles founded on such grounds, will always be found consistent with good sense, the custom of placing churches east and west is of very ancient practice, and independently of the Christian feel- ing, of the early ages, is founded on good taste, and is the most beautiful in practice ; not only for the sentiments that it inspires from its antiquity, and from the feeling of adoring the Creator of all things, looking towards the east, where his boun- teous source of light and heat rises to beautify and benefit our munda,ne globe ; but from the circumstance, that such a mode of distribution gives more beauty and variety of light and shade, than any other. In a northern aspect, such as this of Mary-le-bone new church, the portico, which is always the most distinguishing feature of a church, is turned towards that part of the heavens, from whence the sun never shines ; and it rarely catches its enlivening rays, but receives on o 42 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. the contrary the gloomy sepulchral reflected light of a northern aspect, and bears more the character of a pagan sepulchre, than of the enlivening features of a Christian temple. The steeple partakes of the same gloomy character in front, but being circular in its upper part, and having every face alike, the same objection does not entirely hold good. There- fore to catch the best character of this feature of the church, which by the way is the most difficult thing to design in modern architecture, and may be called both the touch-stone and op- probium of modern art, let us walk a little way down the New Road towards Portland Place, and observe the charming effect of the light and shade upon its varied forms. To compare this s.teeple with the best of Gibbs' or any of Wren's, that are executed in stone, would be trying its architect by too severe a standard, for who of modern days has sur- passed that of St. Martin's in the Fields, or has equalled those of St. Bride's, Bow, or many others that may occur to an observing spectator ? But it has its beauties, which are principally those of detail, and its defects, which are entirely those of outline and of appropriateness. In outline it is bulky and inelegant, and in appropriateness, either the pediment should have been omitted, or the campanile should not have been placed a strad- dle upon its back. It has no precedent in any work of Wren's, who always brings up his spire from a sufficient tower, and base from the ground ; nor do I remember at this moment any in the great Italian masters. Gibbs furnishes an example in St. Martin's, and so does the elder Dance in St. Leonard, Shoreditch, two specimens of great beauty, elegance and solidity, but defi- cient in this first requisite of a bell tower, a sufficiently apparent foundation. The steeple, as- you may perceive, commences on the summit of the pediment and roof, by a square rusticated tower of twenty-one feet on each side. In the centre is a clock, which breaks the monotony of the masonry. On the upper part of this is a circular peristyle of columns of the Corinthian order. A blocking course and two lofty steps surmount the cornice and form a base to eight caryatic figures of the winds, which support an entablature, a blocking course, and a series of eight trusses, bearing up as many ribs, upon a cupola, which finish upon its vertex, and support a pedestal and weathercock. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 43 The setting off of the square tower to the circular temple is too abrupt for symmetry, and consequently fails in producing a beautiful effect. The composition is not sufficiently pyramidal, nor lofty, but the female figures, and the semicircular headed apertures between them, are novel in design, and elegant in effect. Its height is about seventy-five feet from the roof, or 120 feet from the ground. As we are on this side, let us go down High Street, take a look at the Eastern front, which has an original and striking appearance on this side, from the effect of the almost meridian sun which is now shining upon it ; and enter the church, by the south eastern entrance. Over the corresponding door, is a similar niche to that before us, and the wing is ornamented in every respect in a similar manner. The floor of the church is raised five or six steps above the level of the cemetery, which is a method that should always be adopted, as the ground of the church-yard is always increasing in height. Witness the number of churches in the country whose floors are become by such means much below the level of the surrounding soil, to the great injury of the healths of the congregation. The interior, which we are now entering, is, as you perceive, spacious, airy and commodious ; and, having a second gallery, will accommodate an immense congregation, the members of which can all hear and see as well as in any church in the me- tropolis. The arrangement of the galleries and pews, and the distribution of the seats, are all excellent as far as hearing and seeing are, concerned, but are too theatrical in appearance, for an edifice of so sacred a character as a church. This appear- ance is still farther increased by the private pews, which stand- ing in the diagonal sides in tiers bear also too great a resemblance to the private boxes, and the altar and its decorations, with the organ in its centre, and the flimsy linen transparency in its front, to the proscenium of a theatre. With these exceptions, the interior is rich and splendid, and bears evidence of a sound and pure taste in its architect. The lower part of the altar- piece is also in excellent style, and the altar picture of a holy family, by West, is one of the best productions of that facile painter. The pulpit and desks are beautifully carved in mahogany, 44 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. and are very appropriate to their destined purposes. The ceiling, as you may perceive, is broad and bold in style, and effective in execution. The splendid effect of this church on Sundays, when filled by a congregation of the first wealth and information in the British metropolis, cannot be surpassed. Our morning is wasting fast, we have much to see and to talk about, and the pew-opener is waiting to lock the doors after us ; therefore, if you please, we will leave this singularly original design, return into the Park by York Gate, and pursue our peregrinations. I almost had forgotten to say, that the expense of building the church, including the charge incurred by the alterations from the original design of a chapel into a church, was about £60,000. See the rich embroidered prospect now before us ! Look on our right how the huge cupola of the Coliseum spreads its ample rotunda among the groves of mansions, pleasure grounds and squares. See the bizarre minarets of Sussex Place on our left, in direct opposition to it ; and the tasteful pilasters of Cornwall Terrace, how they play in the sunny corruscations of this brilliant morning. With how much more justice might the poet exclaim, had he lived to see our metropolis in this our day,— " this splendid city How wanton sits she, amidst nature's smiles ; Nor from her highest turret has to view. But golden landscapes, and loxuriant scenes, A waste of wealth, the store -hoose of the world." Young. YoEK Terrace. Now we are again in the confines of the park. The buildings on our right and left are York Terrace, designed by Mr. Nash. That which is eastward of York Gate, we will leave till we return to it after our circuit, and inspect that on our left. This splendid row of princely mansions, has the appearance of one single building, of a complete palatial character ; owing to all the entrances being in the rear, where large and characteristic porches protect the vestibules, and serve for the reception of dressed company from carriages in bad weather. All the doors and windows in this lawn or principal front, are uniform, and have the appearance of a suit of princely apartments rather IJra.'-A^ 07" Tho^. H . S-T-epterd.. £iigVo^^ec "br V/-.K.. Smj-i. miTAIL lf©]E1K IBATIE:3, IRIE-E-EMT-^S IPAl hed- Auril 5, 16-6. "bv Jones 2z C? 5 Acton. Flace >.ir.95:?_yi. K.o?c Zondon . Jra nb/ Tiu. -i tv? 3 z-e.-a^/ci oy ^^. R-Si:^:.';: S0^SE^ 1F3LACE, IR3E'E-5^HT'S FAai^^ \- ?^- '- ■^- ^^^^ V -'a-^es fe C?3 .^.c-Lon Place, Itingslani Ko^d lo^^n . METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 45 than a row of private dwellings. This idea is kept up by the pleasing and judicious arrangement of the gardens, which have no divisions, but are laid out in the style of grounds belonging to the palace. The elevation is in a good Italian style of archi- tecture in composition, with Grecian detail ; and consists of an entrance or ground story, with semicircular headed windows, and rusticated piers. A stylobate, or continued pedestal above the rusticated arches of these windows, runs through the whole composition, divided between the columns into balustrades in front of the windows of the one pair or principal story, to which they form balconies of a handsome architectural cha- racter, much superior to the trivial thread-like iron balconies of its predecessors. Lofty, well-proportioned windows, that give light to the elegant drawing-rooms of the principal story, are perforated immediately on the cornice of the stylobate, and in accordance with the majestic simplicity of the order to which they belong (the Ionic of the Ilyssus), they are left vnthout decoration. A similar range of windows, of the same width but less in height, are constructed for the use of the principal chamber stoiy, and like those of the drawing-room story are also without dressings. These two stories form the principal architectural features of. the terrace, and are decorated with a colonnade of the Ilyssus Ionic order. The angles are finished in antis, and the order is completed by a well proportioned entablature, adapted with great propriety from the same beautiful specimen of the order. On the summit of the cornice is constructed an attic story, which by prescription is allowed to wander a little into the bizarre, but this strays rather too much into the irregular, to accompany so chaste a composition as the Ionic, to which it forms a crown. The cornice and blocking course are both also too small in proportion for the majesty of the lower order. A contrast there should be certainly, but not in style. It is in a different key, and is a false concord, when only an harmonious discord was required. The windows between the piers or pilasters of this story, are of the same width as those below, and finished with semicircular heads and sash windows in correspondence with those of the lower story. Now we will proceed in our excursion, but hark ! at that delightful harp. The very circumstance of not seeing the charming player enhances the romance of the scene. How the p 46 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. swelling chords wander about the ear. It comes from that open window, with the tamboured muslin curtains, and it accords so completely with the harmony of the scene, that I cannot tear myself away. The lovely musician is revelling in all the bril- liancy of Arpeggio variations upon the beautiful Venetian air sul margine del rio. Mark the rapidity with which she executes that brillante passage, swelling from the minutest piano to the most powerful forte, stopping as if by magic in an , instant and then reverting to the original air. It ceases ! Well ! the highest enjoyments are often the most brief. Therefore now let us proceed. CoENWALL TeRKACE. This next row of buildings is one of the first, and at the same time one of the prettiest, that have been erected in the Park. It is called Cornwall Terrace, after our present King's ducal title, when Regent of these kingdoms. The houses are not on so large a scale as those in York Terrace, hut possess a character for regidar beauty that some of their more colossal neighbours want. This terrace is erected from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton, and possesses a character of beauty and scholastic regularity, that is highly creditable to the talents of this young architect. It consists of a rusticated ground story, which forms a well proportioned basement to the Corinthian order of the principal stories. The doors and win- dows correspond in character, and preserve an appearance of unity highly agreeable to the eye. This rusticated story pro- jects beyond the face of the upper, which is of the Corinthian order, with fluted shafts, well proportioned capitals, and an equally well proportioned entablature. The windows, dressings, accessories and other architectural and sculptural embellish- ments of this very elegant row of houses, aie in good taste, and present to our view an architectural fagade of singular beauty. Clarence Terrace. Let us now continue our ramble. This picturesque row of houses is named after his Royal Highness Uie Lord high Ad- METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 47 miral of England, and is also from the drawing board of Mr. Burton, junior. It is in three portions, a centre and two wings, of the Corinthian order, connected by two colonnades of the Ilyssus Ionic order. This terrace is the smallest in the park ; and from the circumstance of its projecting wings, and its Ionic colonnade, it presents a greater variety in its composition, and a more imposing effect, than if it were straight upon its face, and had not such bold features. The elevation is divided into three stories ; namely, a rusticated entrance, which serves as a basement to the others, a Corinthian order embellishing the drawing-room and chamber stories, and a well proportioned entablature : these form the principal features of this pleasing composition. If we cross over to the pavement of the terrace, and turn our backs upon the houses, we shall enjoy one of the most pleasing views in the park. Look at the beautiful expanse of the lake before us ! See. the exquisite diversity of scene, occasioned by the islets or holmes that lay upon its tranquil bosom, in all the variety of nature, when at the same time they are the effects of art. Such power has the artist of pure taste, who looks to nature as his guide, in the formation of living pictures like the scene that we are now enjoying. A house, situate like one of these, possesses the double ad- vantage of town and country. By its contiguity to the fashion- able and business parts of the metropolis, it forms a complete town residence ; and by the romantic beauty of the decorated landscape scenery by which it is surrounded, it is equal to any part of the country for health and domestic retirement, for men of business, " When weary they retreat T* enjoy cool nature in a country seat, T* exchange the centre of a thousand trades For clumps and lawns, and temples and cascades." COWFEB. How charming is the appearance of those two beautiful villas, the Holme and South-villa, from this spot ; surrounded as they are by such luxuriant vegetation of shrubs and trees, and flowers, redolent of beauty and of the sweetest perfume. Now let us proceed. The whimsical row of houses, that we are now approaching is. 48 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. Sussex Place, designed, I believe, by Mr. Nash. In elevation it presents a singular contrast to the chaster beauties of the other terraces and places, by which it is surrounded ; and was perhaps intro- duced purposely by its able architect for the sake of picturesque variety. For architectural beauty or good taste, if we separate the pagoda-like cupolas of this pile, and the bizarre style of decoration which it displays, from its adjacent scenery and ac- cessories, it is entitled to no commendation on the score of pure style : but, when considered with the eye of a landscape painter, it presents a variety of form, and an assemblage of picturesque outlines, which diversify the scene, and prevent a monotony of effect that might otherwise have been tedious. The horticultural accessories, are pleasingly adapted to the houses, and the situation, which commands some of the most charming prospects in the park, is one of the most delightful suburban sites in this region of beauty. The lake spreads its tranquil bosom before the fagade, and reflects its eastern-like cupolas with pleasing effect. The varied plantations of the park, group with singular felicity, and the delightful season, that we are now enjoying, gives a double rehsh to the natural beauties of the place. Now let us proceed, as the morning is wearing away apace, and we have much to occupy our attention. Our next object is the handsome row of mansions on our left, named after his Majesty's continental kingdom and here- ditary dominions, Hanover Terrace ; which is also a design of Mr. Nash's, and in a more gramma- tical style of architecture than that which we have now left. It has a centre and two wing buildings, of the Doric order, the acroteria of which are surmounted by statues and other sculp- tural ornaments in terra cotta. The centre building is crowned by a well proportioned pediment, the tympanum of which is embellished with statues and figures in a wretched style of art, which the architect would do well to remove. The style of ijiiiiiiiDiiiiiiiiiuijiiiji jyiiiiiiiwi iiiiiiiiiiij iS _ ..;.: ■..-.-_. '■assr--^ i»^ MAHOTEK TEIRKACE, KE^EHT'S WARM.. INSCRIBED TO JOHN JJASH. ESQ'^ THE ARCHITECT OF THIS fc OTHER SPLENDID WORKS IN ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. RibKshcdMaT 5.1327. bv Jones & C. 3.ActonFlace. Mm^slajid. BDaa^London. •CsS J>rivra tjy Tiu' flibrpicrd. VIILILA EH TWE RE^IENT'S PARK. THE KESIDENCE OF G. i. GREEHBOUGH ISQ : TO WHOM THIS PLATE IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRLBED. ^ PuMitlirf May i. 1627. Vf Jon^s fc C? 3. Acton Tkce. KmSsland Road . London. Ln^ravT^d hv W^a;li 'na-wT. cjThi] B ohepticrl TKE RESIDENCE OF THQS HATKES ESQ m^3r-Q-^'^^ "-' I'oinbicson Dra^ b^ Ih U kfkri ■nn: RKsniENCE 0¥ iris gracb tub nuio. of wi-.li.ington to whom this vlate is atGTEC'jKULi.Y iNccan. . Joocs ic C9Temple of the Muacs Vmshoiy Square .J-ondon, Scp!^/!6 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 49 architecture employed by the artist is Italian or Palladian, and remarkably well adapted for the description of dwelling houses, of which the structure is composed. The capitals are well pro- portioned in design, and well exetfuted, but the entablature is weak in profile and inefficient in character, for the height of the building to which it is appropriated. The stories of the mansions are lofty, and elegantly finished, and the domestic arrangement of the various rooms convenient, and laid out in a rnasterly style. The situation of this very pretty terrace is near the north western extremity of the western branch of the lake which embellishes and refreshes the park. The islet which faces its northernmost wing sweetly diversifies the scene, and gives a charming sylvan character to the prospect from the houses. The knoll of Primrose hill which appears above the tops of the young plantations, looks charmingly, as that passing cloud is diversifying its emerald bosom, and removing a somewhat too great monotony. A large reservoir of water is being formed upon its summit for the supply of the houses in the park, as high as their upper stories. This undertaking will add to the character which our countrymen have ever enjoyed of adding the useful to the ornamental. Now let us rest a while, and enjoy the passing by of this bevy of fair demoiselles on their prancing jennets, who appear proud of their lovely burthens ; accompanied by the gentle cavaliers who are escorting them, with beaming eyes and re- joicing hearts. How beautiful that group of detached buildings, north of Hanover Ten-ace, composes from the situation in which we now are. The first on our left is Albany Cottage, the picturesque residence of Thomas Raikes, Esq. As a specimen of the Eng- lish cottage orn6e, it is scarcely to be surpassed, even in this region of architectural and picturesque beauty. The planta- tions accord with the architecture in a singularly happy manner, and at this youthful season of the year, give out delicious and ■ health-inspiring perfumes. " Welcome thon mother of the year, the spring," sings old Kit Marlow in his masque of the Sun's darling, Q 50 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. " That mother, on whose back. Age ne'er can sit. For Age still waits upon her ; that Spring, the nurse Whose milk the Snminer sucks, and is made wanton , Physician to the sick, strength to the sound ; By whom all things abore and under ground Are qoicken'd with new heat, fresh blood, brave vigour. That spring that on fair cheeks in kisses lays Ten thousand welcomes." What can surpass the health-inspiring odour that now sur- rounds us ; the gaiety of our hghtened spirits, the suavity of that cloudless sky, or the mirthful carols of the little birds, which in this " violet-breathing May," are exulting in the very joyousness of their being ? '* Hark ! the cuckows sing Cuckow to welcome in the spring. Brave prick-song ! who is't now we hear? Tis the lark's silver leer-a-leer. Chirrup the sparrow flies away : For he fell to't ere break of day. Ha, ha, hark, hark ! the cuckows sing, Cuckow, to welcome in the Spring. Marlow. Shall we rise ? The next pretty house on the left beyond Albany Cottage, is Hanover Lodge, the tasteful dwelling of the gallant Colonel Sir Robert Arbuthnot K. C. B. This modest mansion has greater pretensions to architectural character, than its rural neighbour, and its accessaries of course, are in a mor« sculptural style. The house is entered under a handsome portico, which opens into a spacious hall ; the cieling of which is supported by marble columns, and its floor decorated with a handsome tessellated pavement. A well-proportioned dining room nineteen feet six inches in length, by sixteen feet in width adjoins the hall on one side, and on another is a splendid suit of three elegant drawing rooms, extending above sixty feet in length when the doors are opened, by eighteen feet in breadth. A stone stair case of good proportions leads to the upper story, which com- prises nine handsome bed-chambers, a bathing room with every accommodation for that healthful luxury, dressing rooms, and other requisites for a respectable family. The basement story contains an extensive range of culinary, and serviceable domes- Drav/n "by ITio' H Sliepherd. intSra^ied bv W ToicVic THE BESIDEMC£ OJ LAJIY" iilBU"rHH"OT; TO WHOM THIS PLATE IS ILESPE CTFTTLLY XN"SCRXBZD JuDtslied AugFlO 1627, "by Jones fc C? ^.Acton Place, Mngsland Soa.±. Londoii dvn L a n li p"h ri COM^-WAUL TEI^MACE, I^IE^IEMT"^ FARM, TO THE KESIJJENTS OF WHICH TBJS PI^TE IS JtESPECa FUiLY DKDICATKD Plibhs-hed Aug^ 30. 1S27. "by Jones i: CrJ.Acton Place. Kmgsland Koad. Landon . Lf oravcQ. oy a j^cebiL METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 51 tic offices, and the out buildings of a neat lodge on each side of the entrance, a gardener's lodge, dormitories for men servants, a double coach house, four stall stable, coachman's room and and other conveniences. The grounds, for a town residence are spacious, and laid out with considerable taste and elegance. The variety of form, and apparent natural effect of the meandering walks, and irregular shaped beds, and baskets cut out in the emerald-velvet turf, give greater delight to the tasteful eye, and more pleasure to the cultivated mind, than the banished formalities of the mathe- matical school of gardening, of Kent and his contemporaries. Had that artist been entrusted with the laying out of these grounds he would have sought jokes and conceits' in every walk, and have dug practical puns in every bed : even as he sent ladies to court, (for he was as often employed in designing garments for the gaudy nymphs of his day, as he was man- sions and pleasure grounds), with bodices and flounces deco- rated with the five orders of architecture. Entablatures on their lovely backs, columns wreathed round their wavy limbs, and bases and pedestals on their capacious petticoats. Had Kent I say, laid out these grounds,' he would have dis- played in cut box, or more formal yew, the star and insignia of the commander of the military order of the Bath, with which the gallant proprietor is ennobled. The white horse of Hanover would have shone in chalk in commemoration of the name which graces the mansion, and the crest, family arms and honorary additions would have been emblazoned in all the honours of London pride, and Virgmia stock, in proper colours ; with multangular and polygonal beds ; in which all the geome- trical figures in the first book of Euclid would have been prac- tically demonstrated. Now to pursue our journey. The Italian villa before us on the right hand side of the road, is the suburban retreat of the Marquess of Hertford, designed by Mr. Decimus Bnrton. Its buildings and offices are on a larger scale than any other in the park, and are accordant in style with the wealth of its noble owner. Simplicity and chastity of style, characterize its exte- rior, and its interior is in the same style of beautiful simplicity. The entrance hall is protected by a hexastyle portico of that singular Athenian order, which embellishes the door of the 52 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. octagonal tower of Andronicus Cyrrhestes, known to Grecian antiquaries, as the tower of the winds. The roof is, Venetian with projecting eaves, supported by cantahvers, and concealed gutters to prevent the dripping of the rain water from the eaves. The wings are surmounted by spacious glass lanterns, which light the upper rooms. The offices are abundantly spacious> being spread out like the villas of the ancients upon the ground floor, and are designed in the same style of chaste simplicity as the mansion. The entrance lodge is particularly chaste,, and the gates solid and park-like; the plantations eminently beautiful, and the tout ensemble of the whole demesne in good, taste. This is decorated simplicity, such as the hand, of taste, aided by the purse of wealth can alone execute. Yet less expense, aided by a pure taste, may accomplish beauty. Even in the recesses of a distant country village, taste may improve the rtiost rigid economy. Such as a poet, whose name I do not at present remember, describes as " Close in the diDgle of a wood Obscar^d with bough;} a cottege stood : Sweet-briar deck'd its lowly, door. And vines spread all the summit o'er. An old barn's gable end was seen, Sprinkled with natiure's moray green, Hard on the right, from whence the flail Of thrasher sounded down' the vale : A vale where many a flow'ret gay Sipp'd a clear stream — let on its way : A vale, above whose leafy shade The village steeple shows its head." Here is a beautiful spot, between the north eastern boundary of Lord Hertford's villa, and the portion in preparation for the use of the menageries and gardens of the Zoological Society, for such a Cottage-ornfee as my friend Dashwood wishes to have for his London residence, since he has been returned by his independent neighbours as their representative in parlia- ment. In such a place as this, nothing like a town house should be allowed to insinuate its brazen face. No Grosvenor Square mansion, nor Grecianized sugar-house, should be skirted by emerald lawns, like those about us. Nor, as the animated author of " Sayings and Doings" says, should " an upright villa, with METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 53 a flight of steps leading up to the door, with a round weedy pond on a lawn, looking like a basin of green pease soup on a card table," be allowed to contaminate the hallowed place. A rural style of architecture, should alone preponderate in a spot of such pohshed rurality as this before us. A house in full puff, or a mansion in a court-cut coat and bag wig, would be as preposterous, among the green fields and gay plantations of the Regent's Park, as my friend Dashwood himself would be in his full bottomed wig and silk gown, foUoAving the Leicestershire fox hounds, breast high among the sportsmen. In this paradise of rural charms, the architect who would compose his design in accordance with the natural beauties of the surrounding scenery, should say with the poet, before he commences his sketch, " To me more dear, coogeDial to my heart One nature chanoj than all the gloss of art." Were comfort my aim, in composing a fit dwelUng for my friend, in the very best part of the park, it should be a cottage, an English cottage, not, as Dr. Johnson defines it, " a low mean house in the country," but a genuine English cottage in the vicinity of the metropolis. Such, as my friend could unbend in, amidst his beloved domestic circle, and renovate his mental and bodily powers, in true and friendly hospitality and enjoy- ment. My friend's cottage, therefore, shall not be the abode of either poverty or penuriousness. It shall not be, as a vritty writer in Blackwood's Magazine asserts all cottages are, infested, with colonies of rats, or communities of sparrows. It shall have neither damp walls, nor smoky chimneys ; nor will I allow a scolding wife ever to enter its love-inspiring doors, without being metamorphosed into a resemblance of its handsome mis- tress, who is an example of perpetual smiling good humour, and amiable cheerfulness. The plantations are almost to my mind, therefore a very few additions will accomplish that necessary appendage to the grounds of my friend's proposed cottage residence. It should be built on that rising knoll, with its entrance front towards the north-west, and, as a good name is every thing, I would call it Belle-grove. E 54 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The front I would place at a moderate distance from the road, inasmuch as the canal, and the opposite plantations, vouch for the impossibility of having opposite neighbours too near. The elevation should be simple, with a plain portico, of a size suflS- ciently ample to admit a carriage under its roof, to set down their fair cargoes in rainy weather without danger to their deli- cate habiliments. The first hall, or vestibule should be sufficiently large, to contain the cloaks, garden-bonnets, hats, coats, parasols, and other exuviee of the drawing-room guests ; for all strangers, servants, tradesmen, &c., should have a distinct entrance near to the servants' hall, so that robbery need not be apprehended. In this general apartment, I would provide room for the bows and arrows of Dashwood's boys, who are famous archers, and their father encourages this exercise as tending to expand the chest, and strengthen the muscles of the arms and back. In it should also be a good sized billiard table, around which my friend may walk from six to eight miles of a rainy day, by way of exercise, and afiFord active amusement to his visiters. Of guns, I say nothing, for although our park abounds with game, my friend is a man of too studious habits to be much of a shot, and even if he equalled Colonel Hawker himself, he would carry his fowling propensities farther a field than the cockney counties of Middlesex or Surry. The gentleman's ovra room should adjoin this general apart- ment, and have also a communication with the common hall of entrance, and have the accommodations of a bath, a dressing table, and other suitable apparatus, besides that of a small writing table. The dining room, should be placed on the right, or westward side of the hall, and shoxdd be so situated, for I like to assign a reason for my dispositions, because the view from this comer of the building, being the least interesting, suits in my mind the occupation of the dinner hour, when all eyes being engaged upon the banquet, they require less external attraction. In fact, the finest prospects fade before that of the table ; for who, I would ask, at the hour of six, the eye is satiated by the highly dressed sceneiy about this charming neighbourhood, and the body fatigued by exercise or business, would not rather survey the gi-atifying display of the hospitable and well arranged METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 55 family dinner table, than even the magnificent expanse of Table bay itself? Then, when the banquet is removed, and the snow white damask is earned oflF, leaving the fine green baize cover, as a preservative of the richly polished table ; does it not, at such an interesting moment, when the produce of the Madeiras, of Oporto, of the east and of the west are about to be arranged for our gratification, more than rival the smiling beauties of the first fine day at the close of winter, such " As the young Spring gives," Spenser. when the balmy air, warmed by the increasing power of the sun, dissolves the wintry snow upon the verdant lawns, and as Horace says,. " Fled are the snows, the verdant torf appears." On the opposite, or left hand side of the hall, I would place the morning room, or room of general occupancy ; which should have a private door opening to a passage leading to the stable yard, the offices of which, should be at a sufficient distance from the house, not to be offensive. The door of the coach house, should face the south, which is a rule never to be deviated from, for the benefit of the sun to dry the carriages when wet. Adjoining the stable yard, I would arrange the melon and cucumber grounds, for the conveniency of the dung-pit, and to keep the kitchen garden free from litter. The summer breakfast room, the withdrawing room, the ladies' room, for a professed boudoir would not be strictly in cha- racter with a cottage, should be in the rear, opening to the south-east, and all on the ground floor. It is matter of faith with me, and orthodoxy in my creed, that it is the character of the genuine cottage to have all the before-mentioned rooms on the ground floor. Indeed, for myself, I should prefer even my bed chamber to be on the ground floor, and adjoining to my own dressing room. These apartments, I would shelter from the meridian sun, by a broad verandah, the supporters of which should be overgrown with Tyoodbine, jessamine, honey-suckles, the white fragrant 56 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. clematis, called from the circumstance of its pouring forth its greatest profusion of odours in the evening, " the labourer's wel- come home," monthly roses, which in such a situation would bloom even in merry Christmas tide, the twice flowering amber- coloured corcorus japonicus, the sweetly scented pea, the darling mignonette, which, by a new mode of culture, can be had in bloom, nearly all the year. Then in front of this verandah, the windows under which," should all open as French sashes down to the floor, and which facing " the sweet south. That breathes upon a bank of violets. Stealing and giving odonr," should be a wide gravel walk, as yellow and as smooth as a Li- merick glove ; then a lawn, as level and as shorn as the cloth of a billiard table, interspersed with a few irregularly shaped patches, like a slashed doublet, filled vrith nature's embroidery, hardy annuals, geraniums sunk in pots, so as to be removed into the conservatory in hard weather; Lady Holland's botanical pride, the splendid and hardy Dahlia and other beautiful " flowers, as many As the young spring gives, and choice as any." Spenser. On the south treillage raised against the back of the kitchen chimney, for the sake of the waimth, I would have a splendid plant of the Magnolia grandiflora, to scent the apartments and grounds with its almond-like fragrance. I would have an abun- dance of sweet-briers, and many of the best varieties of the scented cabbage rose, some of which I would have grafted on lofty stocks, that they might be smelt or gathered without stooping. Of the dormitories, I shall say but little, except that as my friend's cottage is to be only one story high above the principal floor ; those for the servants should be approached by a different staircase, and separate from those of his family. The men ser- vants' rooms should be in the stable offices. As the cottage would be detached, I would have it thatched, not that rough sort of thatch like an Irishman's wig, which, one METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 57 might suppose, covered Miss Hamilton's celebrated cottage at Glenburnie, or many of the cabins in Ireland " That keep every thing else bat the weather elean out ;" DiBDIN. where a hurdle or an old cart wheel is thrown upon the roof to keep the thatch from being blown away. The thatch that I would have, should be formed of combed wheat straw, laid thick and smooth, and trimmed at the eaves, with compact ornamented ridges and verges. This sort of roof is not only very handsome and appropriate to the gentleman's cottage, but is the warmest covering in winter, and the coolest in summer, while slating is directly the reverse. But to return to the garden, which I have not quite finished. I would have a small fountain, the jet of which should be supplied from an elevated cistern in the stable yard. This would be a source of admiration and amusement to my friend's chil- dren, and at the same time, give an agreeable undulation to the air in sultry weather, while a basin at its base would afford pro- tection to a few brace of gold and silver fish, and without the pretence of a regular aquarium, would accommodate a few water lilies and other fragrant and curious aquatic plants. I would also have a small rosarium which would provide rose- buds for the pot-pourri, and leaves for scent-bags, and the use of the still worm. Near to the rosarium I would have a hedge of the gray and spikey lavender, and beds of other fragrant flowers, and herbs for the same domestic purpose. A small orchard, should also be provided, if the size of the grounds permitted, to furnish the desert with choice specimens of fruit ; while be- neath the trees, for due economy, I would sow lucerne, sain- foin and clover for green meat for the horses. Such should be the sort of cottage that I would build for my friend Dashwood in the Regent's Park, and I think you must give me some credit for my talents of building castles in the air, in this instance. Let us now cross Macclesfield Bridge, and mount the easy summit of Primrose Hill. The construction of this bridge, designed by Mr. Morgan, is very picturesque, appropriate and architectural. Its piers are composed of a series of cast iron columns of the Grecian Doric order ; from the summits of s 58 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. which spring the arches which support a flat viaduct or road- way, and cover with their lofty heads, the road-way of the towing-path, the canal itself, and the shrubberies on its southern bank. The abacus, echinus and hypotrachelion of the order, are in beautiful proportion, and the shafts of ample size. The archivolts that form the support of the road-way, are also in accordance with the order ; although fastidious critics may object to the dignity of the pure ancient Doric being violated by degrading it into supporters of modern arches.. See the plate of Macclesfield Bridge. If any excuse can be found for this error in taste, it is in the necessity of the case, or rather in the advantages that result from it. The centre arch is appropriated to the canal and the towing-path, and the two external arches to the accommodation of foot passengers beneath them, and as viaducts for the road above them. Solid piers, therefore, would have rendered the two external arches, dark vaults ; and .perforations in them, would only have furnished dingy apertures with . awkward angles. By carrying the springings of the arches on columns, these diffi- culties were removed, and by springing minor arches transversely to the road, cutting the niain arches with bonnet groins, the whole is rendered light, airy, and convenient. The only objection is in the choice of columns of the Grecian order, the first born of archi- tecture, for this degrading office, and in depriving them of their natural and effective epistyles, which might have been agree- ably and tastefully connected with the archivolts of the vous- soirs, by the substitution of conimon place bonnet groinings of the coal cellar ; whilst the less pure architecture of Rome would have furnished abundance of precedents for the support of arches by coliunns — and the architecture of Greece does not affiard even a solitary example of the practice. It has, however, a beautiful and light appearance, and is an improvement in exe- cution upon a design of Perronet's for an architectural bridge, that is, a bridge of orders. The columns are well proportioned, and suitably robust, carrying solidity, gi-ace and beauty in every part; from the massy grandeur of the abacus, to the graceful revolving of the beautiful echinus, and to the majestic simplicity of the slightly indented flutings. Had indeed the archivolt, formed after the architrave of the order, been surmounted by a proper entablature and blocking course, with scamilli set back METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 59 as the rise, or perforated with panels, the bridge would have been unexceptionably the most novel, and the most tasteful in the metropolis. Even as it is, it is scarcely surpassed for lightness, elegance, and originality by any in Europe. It is of the same family, with the beautiful little bridge in Hyde Park, between Uie new entrance and the barracks. Let us now re-enter the park, and proceed with our journey. The grounds in preparation on our right, are for that very useful and praiseworthy institution the Zoological Society, and are in- tended for the reception of their living animals, after the mode of the establishment called the garden of plants at Paris, This new establishment will consist of a spacious menagerie, an aviary for choice birds, a museum for stuflFed and preserved spe- cimens ; and fish ponds, vrith other necessary appendages for the cultivation of Zoological studies. The east gate, or, as I believe it is to be called, Chester Gate, is now before us. We examined it yesterday in our general perambulation, (see page 22), therefore shall pass it by, and keep within the delightful verge of the park. The pile of buildings that we are now approaching is the Collegiate Church, and Hospital of St. Katherine, and is building in lieu of the ancient foundation of that name, which has lately been pulled down to make way for the great commercial establishment, the dock of St. Katherine, near the Tower, now in progress. As the sun is passing hot, and this seat opportunely vacant, we may rest ourselves before we approach the building, and view its grouping at a distance. Being very little of an anti- quary, I rnust refer you to Dr. Ducarel's elaborate history of St. Katherine's, for historical accounts of its founders, and other particulars. But it is a singular instance of the mutability of human affairs, that a portion of our vast metropolis, which one of our most splendid monarchs, Edward IH., the magnificent founder of Windsor Castle, intended as a metropolitan court, under the name of East Minster, or the Abbey of St. Mary of the Graces, and as a rival to West Minster, should become in 60 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. after times, as " St. Katherine's," the most disgraceful and abo- minable of all the low precincts of the metropolis. The memory of this foundation is recalled to my mind, as having been for years past under thp spiritual guidance of the mild, amiable and truly Rev. G. F. Nicolay, who was presented to the honourable office of senior brother, together with the parish of my ancestors, St. Michael Royal in the city, by the late Queen Charlotte, to whom his father, the celebrated composer, was music master. This small ecclesiastical establishment, whose proper title is " the peculiar and exempt jurisdiction of the collegiate church or free chapel- of St. Katherine, the Virgin and Martyr," was founded by the bold and ambitious Matilda, queen consort of king Stephen, in the year 1148, and dedicated to St. Katherine. It was dissolved in 1272, and the present hospital founded in the following year by queen Eleanor, and dedicated to the same saint. It has continued unaltered tiU its present removal. The establishment of this college, or hospital, consists at pre- sent, as it did on its second foundation by queen Eleanor, of a master, three brothers, who must be in priest's orders, three sisters, single women, ten bedes-women usually nominated by the master, a registrar, a high-bailiff, and some other officers. The buildings of this Royal college, as I before mentioned, were all swept away, by the spirit of commercial enterprize, to make way for the new docks, and are rebuilding, as we now see them, in the more royal situation of the Regent's Park. The old church, as I well remember, was a handsome structure, though much concealed from sight by the confined nature of its situation ; and had a more modern appearance, from the neat state of repair, in which it had been kept, than its real anti- quity warranted. The interior was well deserving of notice, but all that remains of it now, are descriptions in the works of our archaiologists, and fragments- collected and preserved by some curious admirers of our ancient architecture, at the sale of its old materials. Among these, Mr. Cottingham the archi- tect, who is known to the public by many excellent prints of the ancient architecture of England, has completed a Gothic museum adjoining his office in Waterloo Road, from its interest- ing fragments. The ancient structure consisted of the church, cloisters, a METEOPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 61 burial ground, the sister's close and dwellings, the brother's houses, the master's house, bedes-women's houses, a court-room, chapter-room, 8tc. The church was divided into a body and a choir by a hand- some carved screen. The choir consisted of a nave, and two aisles. The windows were handsome and light, particularly the east window, which was deservedly admired for its magnificent size and elegant proportions, by every connoisseur and admirer of our ancient ecclesiastical architecture. This splendid win- dow was the largest in and about the metropolis, being thirty feet in height, by twenty-four in width, and contained 561 feet of glass, exclusive of the stone muUions and tracery. It poured a majestic and almost overpowering flood of light, over the antique pillars and venerable monuments that were in the church, and set forth their beauties in the highest perfection. The altar-piece that was under this emblematical eastern source of light, was of pure design, and in the richest style of the florid Gothic. The beautiful stalls, which I am happy to learn, are, with other parts of this venerable fabric, carefully preserved for re-erection in the new chapel, were began by Wilham de Erl- desby, master of the hospital, in 1340, and were finished by John de Hermesthorp, who was master in 1369. Among the valuable antiquities that are to be thus reinstated in the new chapel, is the singular and curiously carved historical pulpit that was given in 1621, by Sir Julius Csesar, the then master ; who repaired the entire edifice, and was otherwise a great benefactor. It is hexagonal in plan, each angle has an Ionic pilaster, with a fanciful entablature that forms the upper rim or desk of the pulpit. Each pilaster is panelled, and has a scroll of foliage within it. Between each pilaster, that is on every face, is an arch springing from, an impost; under the.ar- chivolt of which is carved in relief a view of some part of the then buildings. As the pulpit is under repair in the carpenter's shop, and I have permission to view it, we will examine its unique carvings, before we go. No. 1, Ducarel informs us is the north, 2, the east, 3, the west, and 4, the south views of the ancient hos- pital ; 5, is the outer gate, and 6, the inner gate. By these sculptures, the artist has conveyed to our time, four views of the hospital, and also two of its gates, as they were in his days. T 62 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. This is one of the most ancient wooden pulpits now remaining to us, as before the Reformation, pulpits of stone of gieat size were more usual. To commemorate this, the donor has caused to be carved round the base, the following inscription in large and bold characters, « EZRA THE SCRIBE STOOD UPON A PULPIT OF WOOD, WHICH HE HAD MADE FOR THE PREACHEN." Neh. viii. 4. The splenidid tomb, consisting of a canopy of curious fret- work, under which lie the marble figures of John Holland, duke of Exeter, his first wife, and his sister, is also to be reinstated in the new dhapel ; as are also the other monuments, and the valuable organ that was erected in the old church, in 1778, by the celebrated Mr. Green, which is reckoned to be one of the finest, particularly in its swell, of any in England. This duke of Exeter, whose tomb will occupy a conspicuous place in the new chapel, was a great benefactor to the hospital. He was lord high Admiral of England, in the reign of Henry VI., and also constable of the tower, and master of the hos- pital. He died August 5th, 1447 ; when this monument, with statues of himself, his first wife Constance and his sister, was erected by his second wife, who survived him. On the death of this lady, she by will desired her executor. Dr. Pinchbeke, to bury her in the same vault, and to avoid all unnecessary pomp and expense, which he strictly complied with. This is probably the reason why her figure was not placed with that of her husband and the other two ladies, as there is sufficient room. The Queen consorts of England, are by law the per- petual patronesses of St. Katherine's ; this hospital being con- sidered as part of their dower. They nominate, as the lawyers say, pleno jure, the masters, brothers and sisters ; and may increase or lessen their number, remove them, alter any statutes, or make new ones at pleasure ; for their power in these instances is unlimited. When there is no queen consort, the king nominates the master, brothers &c. (to borrow another law phrase) pro hac vice. But the Queen Dowager has no power or jurisdiction, when there is a queen consort. All the attempts that have been made in ancient and modern times for this purpose, have proved inefiectual ; and the sentences of the courts of law have unani- METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 63 mously confirmed the great and unlimited powers of the Queen Consorts of England, over this small ecclesiastical jurisdiction. The business of this house is transacted in chapter, by the master, brothers and sisters ; and it is singularly remarkable that by the statutes, the sisters have therein a vote equally vvith the brothers ; and that no business can be done there, without the votes of four of the members, one at least of which must be a sister. The other officers of this house are elected by a majority of votes, and their patents confirmed under the chapter seal. The principal officers so elected, are the commissary or officer principal, who in his licenses is styled, " Commissary or official of the peculiar a,nd exempt jurisdiction of the collegiate church, or free chapel of St. Katherine, the Virgin and Martyr ;" the registrar, the steward, the surveyor, receiver, and chapter-clerk, besides a clerk, sexton, &c. The architect of the new building, which, if you are suffi- ciently rested, we will now approach, had therefore a splendid original to compete with ; and it is but doing justice to well cultivated talent, to admit that he has eminently succeeded. The quadrangle on our left is the hospital, composed of the collegiate church or free chapel in the centre, with dwelling houses on both sides for the brothers and sisters, the chaplain and other officers ; and the building on our right directly oppo- site and overlooking it, is for the residence of the master. See the -plate of St. Katherine's Hospital. The present master is Sir Herbert Taylor, the senior brother the Rev. George Frederick Nicolay ; and the architect, whose talents in designing and executing the buildings which I have just recommended to your notice, is Ambrose Poynter, Esq. a pupil of Mr. Nash. The church is a handsome building in the Gothic or old English style of architecture, and bears a truly collegiate cha- racter in its composition. The west window is well proportioned and in good taste, the doorways judicious and appropriate to their purpose. The turretted buttresses at the angles are also in good proportion, but fail in effect as they rise, by being too plain in their crockets and finials, whereas a greater richness in these upper parts, increasing as they rise from the ground, in con- 64 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. formity with all our best examples, would have been productive of a much better effect. Whilst on the contrary, their present meagre finishing is too much in the French style, and resembles the modern Gothic of Strawberry Hill and Arhngton Street too much, to be pleasing to the genuine admirer of the old English style of architecture. The wings which improve the effect of the composition, are for the purpose of a school-house on one side, and the chapter-room on the other. The dwellings are extremely commodious, and exhibit both externally as a part of the composition, and internally as in- tended for convenience and utility, a skilful and artist-like arrangement. As soon as this group of horsemen are passed, and the dust which they have raised has a little subsided, we will pass over to the master's house, and take a general view of the quadrangle. But stay, one of the workmen has just opened the door of the church. Let us therefore walk in and take a peep at Mr. Poynter's interior arrangement. Well gentlemen ! what think ye ? Indeed this much sur- passes the outside, of which, however, I make no complaint, except as to the want of a little more richness in the turrets. This ceiling is really masterly, and characteristic, and the whole in plain good taste, and in excellent keeping. That east window is very fine, and the smaller windows in the north and south walls harmonize well with the master key that governs them. The joinery is in equally good taste with the rest of the design, and is admirably executed. A little more richness of colour from the employment of more costly materials might be wished for ; but penuriousness towards our architects, is one among the vices of our patrons, that it would be well for them to amend, A charming air of chaste simplicity pervades the whole, which is in strict accordance with the appropriation of the sacred edifice. Its proportions are ninety feet in length, thirty in widtn, anu forty-five in height. The shields under the windows are to be emblazoned with the arms of the Queen consorts, patronesses of the hospital. Now gentlemen, if you have satisfied yourselves with this inspection of the re-edifying of the proud empress Maud's liberality and piety, we will cross the road, and see what modern liberality and science is doing for the protestant lay master of METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 65 the once Catholic hospital of St. Katharine. Whether there are any pretty blue-eyed nuns of St. Katherine's now among the sisters, is a question, I fear, we must not ask of the brave and gallant master of the sisterhood. Stay ! before crossing let me call your attention to the ends of the houses, that form the north and south sides of the quad- rangle. They are admirably characteristic of the intention of the founder, whilst the sculptures of the Royal and other arms, and inscriptions indicative of the nature of the buildings, are in happy accordance with the architecture and style of sculp- ture, and the mode of inscriptions of the day. Now for the master's mansion. Truly were it finished, and some of the tawny tints of time deposited upon its surface, we might really take it for the habitation of the prior to some rich and mitred abbot. Its separated angle chimney flues, their ornamented tops, the fastigated gables, and narrow cell-like windows in the attics, the mullioned windows of the upper story, the bow, and bay windows, and porches to the doors of the principal story, give the whole a conventual or rather a collegiate look. See the plate of the dwelling-house of the master of St. Katherine's Hospital. The handsome well-laid out plea- rare grounds, the store of kitchen gardens, and the stable offices, reminding one of the tithe-bam, keep up the illusion : and no- thing but a father Paul or two at the windows, rubifying the scene like the coloured bottles in a chemist's window, and a living skeleton or two in the shape of lay brothers, labouring in the gardens, are wanting to complete the picture. But in reality we shall see, instead of the high and mighty empress's original intention of cloistered monks, and earth- bereaved nuns, supporting a few bigotted paupers ; a set of high spirited gentlemen, worthy brethren, and amiable sisters of the protestant order of St. Katherine ; at least we may so con- jecture from the domestic arrangements of the house, living a life of equal jollity, and of much less hypocrisy. Truly, these rooms are very handsome and well proportioned ; the cornices and other mouldings are also in due character with the leading features of the design, and the whole arrangement of the plan is judicious, convenient and appropriate. Much as I love the Greek style for real beauty, and apt as I am to ex- claim with Dr. Johnson " so much Greek, so much gold," I u 66 MfiTROPOLITAN IMPKOVEMENTS. must admit on viewing this beautiful specimen of Englisii domestic architecture, that a villa of the Grecian style, for the master of St. Katheriuefs Hospital, in the sight of and overloojiing as it does, the church and dwellings of the hospitallers, would have been as inappropriate, as it would be to raise the beautiful spire of Salisbury cathedral upon the; apex of the pediment of th« temple of. Minerva : Parthenon, and finishing its acrqteria with .gothic pinnacles, crockets, and florid iinials. The materials.; with which this assemblage of , buildings are constructed, are simil^Cjto those, of our ancient architects, brick and stone. But modern art, in giving a fine and pure stone col0ijr,.and more than th,e hardness of ; stone to brick, has im- psoyed upon the heterogeneous mixture of red and black bricks, find white.,, stone ..ofi.our, ancestors, by, a happy union of stone- cqlojured J bricks,, and free ; stone. Some critics have decried brinks, as inimical to architectuie, grounding their objections upon the, marble edifices of Greece. Let these critics, before they decry the .use of bricks, or attribute the want of grandeur in modern, architecture to the use of that comparatively homely material, reflect, that the, Romans, to whose works no want of grandeur can be imputed, u^ed them in their structures vidth pro- digious effect, and that. we. may. almost..attribute the invention of the arch, the vault, and the cupola,, with which, they so gloriously displayed their architectural powers, to the practice of brick-making. .- Palladio constructed soijae of .his finest works of brjck, as ,did Wren and other enainerit modern architects. The judicious mixture of the whitC; brick and stone by Mr. Poynter in these buildings, is infinitely better than the common grey brick, eithjer coloured, or itsnatjye poverty concealed by a deceitful covering of cement. Wishing the. gallant lay-master of the collpgiat.e church and hospital of St. Katherine, a long, life to enjoy Jiis new and com- modious abode, and, thankipg him for, thi^ last half hour's shelter of his roof, we will wi,t^ your leaye, gentlemen, proceed on our perajnbulation. That palatial-looking pile of buildings before us on our left, with, the majestic 9up<)la of Mr. Hornor's Colos^eupa rearing itself over its corniced head, is mettropolitan improvements. 67 Chester Tereace^ named from- the royal earldom of Chester. It is designed by Mt. Nash, and like -most of that gentleman's works, combines genius and carelessness. Genius, and powerful conception, in the composition, and a grasp of mind equalled by no artist of the day in the design : and carelessness, sometimesdegenerating to littleness, with a deficiency of elegance in the details. It is of "the Corinthian order of architecture, of a 'feeble and effeminate character in its details, surmounted by a balustrade of latiky proportions and tasteless forms. The capitals do not spread ^ufi&ciently for the graceful beauty. of the gay Corin- thian, and the volutes are • too small, and are pinched up, as if the acanthus, whence the Callimachus of Chester Terrace gathered them to decorate his order, had been withered by a frost. See plate of Chester Terrace. Passing by these defects of detail, and of material of which the composition is constructed, Chester Terrace is a grand, bold and commanding row of mansions ; and forms a noble compo- sition, and a charming series of residences for such whose, good fortune may enable them to iake np their abode in this new city of palaces. The Corinthian arches at each end are novel in idea, grand in conception, imposing in effect, and have the appearance of some of the lesser triumphal arches of Rome. Inscriptions in memory of some of our minor but splendid victories, such as that of Maida, or the defence of St. Jean d' Acre against Na- poleon Buonaparte, would make them pleasing records of British prowess. Before we part from Chester Terrace, let me call your atten- tion to the pavilion-like houses which project at each end, and are connected with the main -body of the terrace by the Corin- thian arches, as productive of a fine and novel effect. The next row of houses past the Corinthian arch of Chester Terrace, is named 68 metropolitan improvements. Cambridge Terrace, after his Majesty's royal brother the duke of Cambridge, the popular viceroy of Hanover. It is smaller in every respect than its neighbour of Chester, and has less architectural pre- ' tensions. The centre, and the two wings are distinguished by porticoes of the Roman or pseudo-Doric order, with rusticated columns, which, although in bad taste, are productive of variety, in a situation where variety is much wanted, and form a good contrast with the delicate Corinthian of Chester Terrace on the one hand, and the majestic Doric of the Colosseum on the.other. The superstructure, above the porticoes, which are of the height only of the ground story, is plain and sufficient for the purpose to which it is applied. The plantations which fill up the interval, between Cambridge Terrace and the Colosseum are judiciously , executed, and when more grown will prevent too great a con- trast between the isolated Colossus and the group of dwelling houses. Now we will sit ourselves down, before one of the greatest individual enterprises, of which modern art can boast. That magnificent polygonal structure, covered with the vast cupola, and embellished with that beautiful hexastyle portico of the Doric order, is named, (why and wherefore is .yet to be dis- cussed), The Colosseum; ^tf - and is intended for the reception and exhibition of a general panoramic view of London and its surrounding country as far as the eye can see, taken by Mr. Hornor from an observatory that was raised above the cross of St. Paul's Cathedral, during the recent construction of the new ball and cross. In taking the views, Mr. Hornor was aided by his topographical knowledge of the country as a skilful land-surveyor, by powerful teles- copes, and by curious machinery, for executing his sketches. The distant buildings, villas and features of the country, were also taken on the spots, and the artist-like atmospherical dis- tances, are detailed from them with a fidelity, rarely found in pictures of this nature. The view from this elevated spot TME COILSSIETDTM, IEIEf^EHT'3 PAIRS^. Piibliahed Apidl 21 1327 "by- Jones 3: Cf 3Annn Place Enoslini Road londin. i^i}jiiiVc:u.^uy 11 •iiuua. TG)IBIK Tli'S'JL,T. - v: /i9. i828. by Jones fc C" Icmple of the Muses, finsbury S^axe. Ionian METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 95 The whole is surmounted by a handsome entablature, blocking course, and balustrade. For elegance of detail, for harmony of proportion, for good taste, and a chaste suavity of domestic propriety, considering its size, this handsome house is not surpassed by any in the metropolis. It is now the residence of Colonel Mark Wilks, of Kirby, in the Isle of Man, who was governor of the island of St. Helena, before it was occupied by the commissioners for the detention of the Emperor Napoleon. We must return into Portland Place for a few minutes. The house, that almost ^immediately adjoins this of Colonel Wilks, with the cupola, balustrade, and Corinthian pilasters of Palladian character, is the residence of Sir Anthony Carlisle, the late professor of anatomy of the Royal Academy. It composes well with the adjoining mansions and small plantations, and although petite in style, from the want of height in the stories, forms a pretty picturesque accessory to the groupe. The island of houses that stands between Sir Anthony's pavilion and the church, is by Mr. Nash, and in his prevailing style ; as are those opposite, which, however, are of better pro- portions. This is Langham Place, named after Sir James Langham, the worthy baronet who occupies the villa-looking mansion and pleasure grounds at the bottom ; Langham House is also by Mr. Nash, and is a very good example of his best style ; varied, architectural, and well relieved by appropriate breaks and projections. It carries upon its face, good sense, sound taste, and appropriate character. It is a city or rather a town viUa, and not a street mansion, built with a front and no sides, as if waiting for its next door neighbour to be built against its party walls. Whereas, this has side as well as front elevations, stands as if meant to stand, detached with cornices and architectural ornaments and openings on every side, bidding as it were, all loving buildings to keep their distances, and nothing to approach but living creatures and beauteous shrubs. It looks as if the original design was drawn at once in perspec- tive, and the front and flanks designed together with the pencil of an artist, and that the drawing' board and formal geometrical elevation had nothing to do with its composition. This is the variety, combination and composition that distinguishes the artist from the artisan. 96 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The view from this tasteful Palladian villa, up Portland Place, is strikingly grand and effective. The vista is one of the finest in this fine„part of the metropolis, finished as it is, by the paradisiacal views of the park. It is an inclined plane of architectural beauty, rising from the spot whence we are viewing it, to a climax of scenic perfection, in the distance, that cannot be paralleled in Europe ; whether we consider the wealth that it embodies, the salubrity of the site which surrounds it, or the optical beauty which results from this charming combination of architecture, sculpture and landscape gardening. The season of the year too, adds to the beauty of the passing scene. It is now the middle of the London season, the town is resplendently full, the weather as splendidly gay and exhilirating, the inhabitants all life and bustle, and the circumstance of the last drawing room for the season being held to day, makes this opulent and fashionable quarter of the town as lively as an ant-hill. Every equipage is bearing towards Regent Street, in its way to the palace. This splendid carriage, with the armed hey-duke behind it, coming out of Duchess Street, is Prince Esterhazy's, which contains diamonds enough to purchase a manor. The crowd now surrounding the carriages and front of the house on the left, just above Weymouth Street, are waiting to see the splendid cortege of the Prince de Polignac the French Ambas- sador, who is going to pay the respects of his royal master Charles X. to our justly popular sovereign. The Spanish Ambassador on the opposite side, and the newly acknowledged Colombian minister. Count Hurtad, his neighbour, are also pre- paring to join in the same gratifying ceremony. I say, gratifying, when I reflect upon the different feelings that actuated our public men, during the last desolating and expensive war, when rivalry in bloodshed and horrors devas- tated the finest countries in Europe ; and now, when our greatest rivalries are in the arts of peace, in commerce, in literature, in the fine arts, in science, in all the elegancies that adorn and support human nature. In these instances all parties are the gainers, for even the unsuccessful for the paramount prize, reap a profit, whilst, in war, the very conquerors are awful losers. Now let us cross over to the portico of the south-eastern building of Langham Place, and take a look at the singular Dram "by TLo". Bl Skepietd. ErBSTflrved Iry^// "Watkini IPAIEJir ®F WIES'ir SIBIE ©IF lEH^lSTT STEJEIT. Published Dec. 21. 1828. "by Jones & C° Temple of the Muses, Finsbiiry Square. Loodon . 'FA3R.T ®F WEg-r SSBIE OF IRIE^'liFr^it' STIE5EIET. COT^TINUED Piiblished Dec, 21, 1628. "by Jones 8c C ? Temple of the Muses. Fiasbury Square. london METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 97 originality of All Soul's Church. Stay ! our station here, if the carriages of the noble ambassadors do not rout us from our post, is one of the best. The portico and wing of that house, with the hatchment over it, bring an agreeable contrast to the church, and with the superb coach manufactory of Messrs. Marks, in the distance, form an architectural picture of no small beauty. See the print of All Soul's Church, Langham Place. The circular perystyle of the whimsical Ionic portico, the capitals of which are composed of winged cherubim, whose heads peer between the volutes with which their wings are intermingling, like owls displayed on the posts of a Dutch barn, have a very good and very original effect from the situa- tion where we now stand. The circular tower within it, that pierces the soffit of the portico, is solid and effective, and where it rises above the balustrade that crowns the cornice, into a cir- cular stylobate to the Corinthian Peripteral temple that forms the bell-tower, it is really productive of beauty, in form and proportion. Nor am I disposed, now my eye has become some- what used to the daring novelty, to object to the gothic innova- tion of the impaling spire, with its sharpened iron apex, placed as a finial to the Daedalian beauty of the campanile, as some have done, who with more of wit than love for originality, have compared it to a flat candlestick surmounted by a thick candle, and a little non-fit extinguisher upon its top. Elegancies, like the steeples of Bow and of St. Bride's, would cloy, if stuck over every church and chapel in the me- tropolis, and to omit all the credit due to Mr. Nash for his bold originality in this singular tower and spire, would be un- fair, for it really possesses much intrinsic beauty of form, and is no mean ornament to the neighbourhood. The manufactory of Messrs. Marks and Son beyond it, would have been admired, even for a mansion, in the plain times of the Portman Square architects, but is now lost among the archi- tectural beauties of the new metropolis in the nineteenth cen- tury. The architectural fagade to the fronts of the row of stable- oflELces fronting the coach-maker's is a skilful contrivance to conceal an obvious defect, and is highly creditable to the skill of the architect, as well as an architectural embellishment to 2 £ 98 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. the neighbourhood. The little continuous portico of the Doric order, appended to the front of the dead wall, is a happy thought, and produces one of those pretty accidental effects that an original design often wants. There is also much novelty and picturesque effect, in the otherwise clumsy piers and sepulchral arches of the east en- trance story to the houses between this part and Margaret Street ; and the depth of their recesses affords a solid base for the superstructure of the elevation. Here we approach the commercial portions of the street; and in no part of Mr. Nash's style is he more happy than in the adaptation of his means to his end. The style of architecture now assumes a different appearance. The portion we have just left, as forming the isthmus between wealth and commerce, is composed of smaller houses, which can be let at smaller rents than either those of the continent of fashion that we are leaving, or those of the great peninsula of commerce that we are approaching. They are also of that dual character that partakes both of the shop and the private house, and can be used for either as circumstances require. Now, there is nothing doubtful in style ; wide handsome fronts, calculated for broad showy shop-windows, wherein goods and manufactured articles of the most splendid description, such as the neighbouring world of wealth and fashion are in daily want of, may be displayed to the greatest advantage ; and wide private doors for entrance to the handsome upper apart- ments, for letting as furnished lodgings to the temporary visiters of the metropolis, are the prevailing characters. These spots were let to the original builders at heavy ground- rents, and consequently the rents of the houses are proportionably high, and nothing but the costliness of the articles, and the great quantity of them which are sold, could enable the shop-keepers and tradesmen to pay them and procure a living profit. The rivalry of many persons of the same occupations prevent ex- tortion, and keep the goods sold in this splendid mart of retail trade at moderate prices. The architecture of the shops is various, and suflSciently whimsical in places to please the demon of fashion ; but it can be changed as the fashion of the day, or the character of the goods to be displayed within them require : the fronts being supported on slender iron columns within them. DrX'-m'h7 -iJio ±l jile PAEtT ®IF ISAST SEBEj IKJE©3EMT ST5REJST. Drawn by 'j'r.o ]1 Shepherd . KTiAravcd. by "M.Jiarrccf'fT IPAIST ®F "iTIiMV §II®K ®F" 1EIE©]SHT STISEIE'r. '.m l&j9."byJones&'-C°Temple of lie Muses, llinskirj Square londoa. Lraivn bv Thcv' H Stepherd. FAR.T OF TME EAST SEBIS OF JEEi&EHT STREET. Fablishei Sep 10, 181';; by Jones i: C 3 Aaon flace.Kngsland J^oac-Lon-doa. Znoraved lT'.'.™Wa3]J5 Drawn bv iho. li ^epLt d I&FA1K.T®F THE ®PESA COJL>CJiTAME, FlE-OS-a JRIS^ISHT ■:JTISlEiET. 4827. bjr Jonej Sc C° 3 Acton Place. Kiupsland Road London METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 99 The style of the elevations above the cornices of the shops, is of the varied character of the Italian school, and of course is highly picturesque ; and the domestic arrangements of the dwelling houses are remarkably v>rell adapted to the architec- tural fagades of the exterior. This is indeed a portion of our art in which Mr. NaSh eminently excels, and which has rendered his majestic design of Regent Street so much the admiration of strangers and intelligent foreigners. For, as Waller sweetly " Glad, tliODgh amazed, are onr neighboar kings. To see such power employed in peacefnl things. They list not urge it to the dreadful field ; The task is easier to destroy than build." The circus which unites, or rather amalgamates Regent Street with Oxford Street, is of a continuous style of archi- tecture with the houses above it ; and its form, which takes off the intersectional angles, is one of the best that can be devised for the purpose. It gives an air of grandeur and of space to the streets, and a free circulation of air to the houses. It affords facilities to carriages and horsemen in turning from one street to the other, and is as elegant in form as it is useful in application. The building on the opposite side of the street, with two turrets and a cupola, just below Princes Street, is the chapel of St. George, a tasteful production of Mr. C. R. Cockerell, whose travels and researches in Greece have added much to our know- ledge of the sublime architecture of the ancient Greeks. As Mr. Cockerell is so classical an architect, he need not fear severity of criticism upon his designs, therefore if you please we will walk over to Welch and Hawes's musical repository, and inspect it leisurely from the northernmost window of their saloon. In the composition of this church, Mr. Cockerell had that gem of Sir Christopher Wren's, the interior of St. Stephen, Walbrook, in his mind's eye ; and as the only difference that ever arose between the tasteful architect of the building before us and myself, was which of us bore the greatest veneration for the memory of Sir Christopher, we shall most likely not differ much as to an application of some of the intricacy and variety 100 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. of the school of Wren, to the severe simplicity of the architec- ture of ancient Greece. The building is of that order of ancient temples which we call prostyle, that is, having columns only in the front ; and is the second order of sacred buildings, according to Vitruvius. It is of the Ionic order of columns, and has a portico to the nave, and wings with cubical turrets to the aisles. See the print of St. George's Chapel, Regent Street. The portico is tetrastyle, with columns of that species of the Ionic order, that was used by the ancient Greeks in the temple of Minerva Polias, at Piiene, a city of Ionia, near Miletus. Behind the two outer columns are antae of elegant proportions, flanking a receding pronaos or porch- which contains the en- trance doorway. This is of antique form, and of just propor- tions. The portico is covered with a pediment of an extremely elegant and antique forai, surmounted by acroteria, which how- ever, at present, support nothing. The wings are composed of two antae, one of which supports the epistylium or architrave of the portico, and the other foims the extremity of the building between the front and flank. The entablature is carried through the whole composition, breaking over both portico and flanks. The architrave has three faces, as in the original example ; the frieze is plain, the cornice is decorated with dentels in the bed mould, and with lion's heads after the antique in the cymatium. I know not what the district surveyor would say to Mr. Cockerell, if his lion's heads were spouts to carry the water from the roof after the Athenian manner, casting their liquid odour upon the heads of the beaux and belles that perairibulate the broad and handsome pavement from their carriages to the splendid shops on a showery day. The antse project sufficiently in either flank, to exhibit its entire proportion and a part of the side walls of the chapel, which are rusticated in square sinkings to mark the courses of stones, in correspondence with those of the front. Between the fronts of the antae, 'in each wing, is a very handsome aper- ture, with Grecian dressings, and relieved from the ground of the wall by sinkings similar to those in the flanks. On each wing is raised a rusticated attic, surmounted by a cornice of accordant proportions and a lofty blocking course ; METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. ]01 which supports a second that forms a base to four antae, one at each angle of a cubical campanile or bell tower. The order of which these towers are composed, is a species of Doric, some- what resembling that of the Choragic monument of Thrasyllus, at Athens. The antsB are surmounted by a lofty entablature, consisting of architrave, frieze and cornice in due proportion, crowned by a moulded parapet, which breaks over every part of the centre and conceals the roofs. The eastern faces of the walls, between the antae, are divided into ten square panels ; the sides are decorated with the two upper panels, the lower part being plain ; and th€ whole of them are ornamented by sculptured bosses. Those of the upper panels are perforated, to serve as a passage for the sound of the bells. Between the towers (to see which, however, we had better walk a short distance towards Oxford Street), is a lofty capaci- ous hemispherical cupola, with glazed panels for the admission of light to the interior of the church. This cupola, together with this mode of distributing light to the interior, is more in the Italian style of architecture than in the Grecian. Not that I mean to assert that we have many existing remains of Greek cupolas, or any finer than that of the Pantheon ; but that it is not such a cupola as an architect of ancient Greece would have appropriated to such an edifice. Yet it is so recedent from the portico, is so mixed with the archi- tecture of the adjoining houses, and is so little connected with the composition of the front arrangement, that it must be par- doned for the sake of the good effect which it produces in the very handsome interior, which, as I said before, is founded upon that of Wren's graceful example, St. Stephen's, Walbrook. The effect from this spot, flanked by the well-filled and handsomely displayed shops on each side of the towers, breaking against those buildings beyond" it, and relieved by those of the other side of the street, is peculiarly fine and varied. The cu- pola comes upon the eye like that of an eastern mosque, the glass panels sparkling -with the gilding rays of the sun ; whilst the circular Corinthian pavilion, on the opposite side of the street, makes a beautiful fore-ground mass For a picture of this original and tasteful building. See plate of St. George's Chapel. The row of Corinthian houses, to the northward of St. 2f 102 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. George's chapel, is a great and manifest improvement upon the plain dingy brick elevations of our ancestors. The shops, pro- jecting as they do from the line of the architectural elevations above, serve as a kind of perforated and decorated stylobate to the Corinthian order of the one and two pair stories. The pilasters are arranged in pairs and singly, to accommodate them and their interpilasterings, to the openings of the windows, and the divisions of the party walls. The entablature, which is complete, after the best Roman specimens, is surmounted by a blocking course, on which is raised a well-proportioned Attic order of dwarf pilasters, with cornice and parapet. The windows of this story are nearly square, and at the same time are both appropriate to their purposes and in unison with the architectural character of the structure. These houses, by being built an entire story loftier than those which adjoin Mr. Cockerell's chapel, create an agreeable va- riety and a beautiful undulation of form that is highly pictur- esque and pleasing to the eye. A cup of coflFee, or some other slight refreshment, would, I conceive, be agreeable to us ; and after a short repose from our labours, this very hot morning, we can resume our excursion. 'this important winding up of our machine, which poor hu- martity so often requires, and which poor humanity is so de- lighted to have done, being now accomplished, we vrill cross over to the chapel, and from the western side of the street take a periscopic view of the eastern side. That long range of building, which reaches from the corner of Argyle Place to the shop buildings, with a continuous por- tico of termini, is the Harmonic Institution of Messrs. Welsh and Hawes, which is connected with the establishment for- merly called the Argyle Rooms ; where the celebrated Pic-nic Society, under the guidance of Colonel Greville, the Odecho- rologe'ium, a long-named institution for long winded-spouters, and other musical and oratorical societies were formerly held. The Harmonic Institution was originally a species of share- holding joint stock company, associated for the publication of musical compositions, and other objects connected with that fascinating art. But it is now conducted entirely by the two eminent musical professors whose name it bears. The portico of termini, with capitals formed of the heads of METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 103 females, and executed by Mr. J. G. Bubb, produce a pleasing variety next the street ; but at the same time an unpleasant darkness in the rooms within. This rises as much from the want of height in the lower story, to which I believe the archi- tect, Mr. Nash, was confined, as from the projections of the portico itself. The western part of London is as much indebted to the taste for architectural splendour of our present sovereign, as the city formerly was to that of Charles II., in whose father's reign a love for art began to be cultivated by the rich and well educated part of the community. In this respect the wise measures of our present king are in opposition to the cautious, but perhaps in those days necessary policy of some of our earlier monarchs, who were fearful that the metropolis would grow at the expense of the country, and become as a head too large for the body. With these -views, our good old Queen Bess, as she is familiarly called, passed an act (35 Eliz. c. 6) for the restraint of new buildings, converting great houses into several tenements, and for restraint of inmates and inclosurea, and from building on any but old foundations, in and near the cities of London and Westminster. But her majesty's taste, which rejected a pictorial prayer book, and com- manded Zucchero to paint her portraits without shadows, was never proverbially great, either in painting or in architecture. Her successor too, the cautious James, conceived also that London was increasing in size beyond his conceptions of me- tropolitan propriety ; and that its inhabitants cultivated metro- politan architecture beyond what pleased the British Solomon, who dealt out his wishes like commands, in oracular apothegms and pedantic proverbs. This monarch, as Lord Bacon informs us, was wont to be pressing upon the country gentlemen to abandon London for their country seats ; and that he would sometimes say to them, " Gentlemen, in London you are like ships in a sea, which show like nothing ; but in your country villages you are ships in a river, which look like great things." To persons who, like Cobbett, think our vast and increasing metropolis, a wen rather than a sound and well-proportioned head, suited to the Herculean fame of the British empire ; reply may be made, that London in the Nineteenth Cen- tury is not as it was in the fifteenth, the metropoHs of England 104 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. alone ; but that it is now the metropolis and mart of the united kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland, of our immense colonies and territorial possessions in the East Indies : that communica- tions with every part of which, by our irnproved roads, coaches, the important discovery of the agency of steam, and other means of locomotion, are of ten times the ease and rapi- dity of former days ; and, that vast as has been the increase of buildings in and about the metropolis, the important facts in political (Economy are elicited, that neither is it at present over- built, nor inhabitants wanting for the colonies of towns that are now surrounding the ancient capital of England ; nor, what is yet of greater importance, has any part of the country, or any provincial town or city, suffered loss or decrease, by the gain and increase of London. So steady has been the increase of London since the restora- tion of the ancient power of our kings over every branch of the state, and the consequent expulsion of foreign power over our domestic policy, by the reformation, that its contemplation is almost startling. So great has been the increase of knowledge, by that great diffuser of learning, which no longer debarred the people from instruction, nor made an exclusive caste of the priesthood for the benefit of a foreign state, that no memorial of gratitude we can ever raise, would be adequate to the debt we owe to our enlightened and enlightening forefathers, who were instrumental in this vital change in the policy of our country. The growth of London in the reign of James I. was pro- digious. Sir William Petty computes its population to have doubled itself every forty years, from the year 1600 ; conse- quently, in 1680 it must have contained four times as many in- habitants as it possessed at the beginning of the century. Al- though James endeavoured to drive his opulent subjects from the metropolis to their country residences, few of our monarchs had a greater number, or more splendid palaces, than the suc- cessor of Elizabeth, whose metropolitan architectophobia he seemed to inherit with her crown. Not content with reproving and exhorting his nobles and country magnates, as Lord Bacon records, in imitation of his predecessor, he also issued several proclamations against the increase of new buildings in London and Westminster ; yet, at the same time, had both the incon- sistency and the good taste to employ Inigo Jones, notwith- METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 105 standing his staunch papism, to build for him his splendid palace of Whitehall; whose banqueting house and splendid ceiling, by Rubens, together with its entire design, for the preservation and knowledge of which we are indebted to the patriotic liberality of the Earl of Burlington, attest the grand imagination, sound taste and liberality, of both the king and his architect. Several edicts were, according to old Stowe, the historian, thus issued. One of them forbade all manner of buildings within the city, and a circuit of one mile thereof. Among its enactments was the salutary one to a city built of timber ; that henceforward all new buildings should have their fore fronts built of stone or brick ; and some offenders were censured in the star chamber for offending against its regulations. From this period we may date the reformation of the archi- tecture of London, which is also much indebted to the genius and industry of Inigo Jones, the king's chief architect. Of the principal reformers of taste among the learned and noble men of this period, the great Lord Chancellor Bacon stands in the foremost rank ; and his published opi- nions on architecture and gardening, are decisive proofs of the correctness of his taste. His maxim, that houses are built to live in and not to look on, should never be forgotten by the do- mestic architect ; and his description of a palace, in opposition to such huge buildings as the Vatican, the Escurial, and some others, which he pithily observes, have scarce a fair room in them, is characteristic of the best architectural style of this period, which Inigo Jones, Sir Henry Wotton and him- self had so much improved. As we purpose taking a preliminary view of the new palace now building near Buckingham Gate, St. James's Park, pre- vious to its completion, for my hereafter full, true and particular account of its glories ; for I hold it a maxim religiously to be observed, that every architect has a right to exclaim to the premature critics, stay till it he finished; — a short account of this elegant minded man's idea for a palace may be a good pre- parative. He informs his readers (you will find the details in his ad- mirable volume of essays), and his opinions carry weight with men of discernment,— that they could not have a perfect palace 2 G 106 METEOPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. except they had two several sides ; one for the banquet, fes- tivals and triumphs ; and the other for the household and for dwelling. These sides he ordains should be not only returns, but parts of the front, and should be uniform without, though severally partitioned Tyithin ; and to be on both sides of a great and stately tower in the midst of the front, that as it were joineth them together on either hand. He desires to have on the banqueting side, in front, only one goodly room above stairs, of above forty feet in height, and under it a room for a dressing or preparing place in times of triumph. How far Inigo Jones followed this advice, may be seen in comparing it with his design for the new palace at Whitehall, of which the present grand and imposing chapel was one of four such build- ings, and intended by the architect for the banqueting house. On the other side, which is the household or dwelling side, the noble and learned architect would have it divided at the first into a hall and chapel, with a partition between, both of good state and ample dimensions. These apartments were not to go all the length, but to have at the further end a winter and sum- mer parlour ; and under these rooms, a fair and large cellar sunk under ground, and likewise some privy kitchens, with butteries, pantries and the like. As for the tower, he would have it of two stories, each eighteen feet high above the two wings, and handsome leads upon the top, balustraded, with statues inter- posed ; and the same tower to be divided into rooms as shall be thought fit. The stairs, he directs, to be formed upon a fair open newel, and finely railed in with images of wood, cast into a brass colour, and a very fair landing place at the top. I give you nearly the learned chancellor's own words, for I am against modernising into fashionable cant, the nervous and sinewy language of the time of Elizabeth, of Shakspeare and of Bacon ; particularly of the philosophical architect himself, whose sublime idea for a royal palace I am now repeating to you, borrowing, not stealing, from the rich storehouse of his splendid imagination. His lordship commands, that by no means should the servants' dining rooms be in any of these lower rooms ; for otherwise, he says, you will have the servants' dinners after your own ; for the steam of it will come up as in a tunnel. And so much for the front ; only he directs the height of the first story to be METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 107 Sixteen feet, the upper he had before ordered at about forty feet. Beyond this front he designed a fair court, but three sides of it were to be of a far lower building than the front ; and in all the four corners of the court, handsome staircases cast into turrets on the outside, and not within the row of buildings themselves. But these towers were not to be of the height of the front, but rather proportionable to the lower building, He would not have this court paved all over, because it would strike up a great heat in summer ; but only some side walks, with a cross, and the quarters laid with grass, kept shorn, but not too close. The row of return, on the banqueting side, was to be divided into stately galleries, in which were to be three or five cupolas in the length of it, placed at equal distances, and embellished with fine coloured windows of several works. On the house- hold side, were to be chambers of presence and ordinary enter- tainment, with some bedchambers ; and all three sides were to be formed as a double house, without thorough lights on the sides, that there might be rooms from the sun both forenoon and afternoon. He would have it so disposed, that there might be rooms both for summer and winter ; shady for summer, and warm for winter. Instead of describing an ideal palace, one would almost think it was the philosophical Pliny the younger, describing his Tus- culum or Laurentinum to his friends. But to proceed with the Chancellor's royal palace : he com- plains of some fair houses, that were so full of glass, that one cannot tell, he says, where to go to be out of the sun or the cold. Bowed windows he held to be good, except for cities, in respect to the uniformity toward the street ; as being pretty retiring places for conference, and at the same time keeping ofl^ both the sun and the wind ; for that, he observes, which would strike almost through the room, doth scarce pass the window. He would, however, confine them to few in number, not ex- ceeding four in the court on the sides only. Beyond this court, he would have an inner court of the same square and height, which was to be environed with a garden on all sides ; and in the inside cloistered or porticoed on all sides, upon beautiful and well-proportioned arches, as high as the first story. On the under story, towards the garden, it was 108 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. to be turned to a grotto, or place of shade or estivation ; and only have opening and windows towards the garden, and be level upon the floor, and no way sunk under' ground, to avoid damps. He proposed also a fountain, or some fair composition of statues, in the midst of this court, which was to be paved as the other court. These buildings were intended for privy lodgings on both sides, and the end for privy galleries ; whereof one was to be for an infirmary on the second story, in case the prince, or any special person, should be sick ; to have cham- bers, antichambers, bedchambers &c. joining to it. Upon the ground story he would have a fair gallery, upon columns, to take the prospect and enjoy the freshness of the garden. At both corners of the further side, by way of return, he directs two delicate or rich cabinets to be formed, daintily paved, richly hanged, glazed with crystalline glass, and a rich cupola in the midst, and all other elegancies that might be thought upon. In the upper gallery he wished there might be some fountains running in divers places from the wall, with other conveniencies of that nature. And thus much, says our philosophical architectural theorist, for the model of the palace ;' save that there must be, before you come in the front, three courts, and a green court, plain, with a wall about it ; a second court of the same, but more embel- lished, with little turrets, or rather ornaments, upon the wall ; and a third court, to make a square with the front, but not to be built, nor yet inclosed, with a naked wall ; but enclosed with terraces, leaded aloft, and fairly garnished on the three sides, and cloistered on the inside with columns, and not with arches below. As for offices, he advises to let them stand at a distance, with some low galleries to pass from them to the palace itself. So far does this " Columbus of the philosophical world" direct the architectural taste of his day; the fruits of which were apparent, and coming to maturity, in the early part of the reign of the unfortunate Charles. This ideal palace would be an excellent task to try the abilities of a young architect to design on paper, and would make an admirable probationary gold medal study for the more advanced students of our Royal Academy. Bacon was not the only philosopher who considered architecture as worthy the attention of an elevated mind. The METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 109 wise, the enlightened Sir Henry Wotton, who ' acquired the soundest elements of the art in the school of Palladio, at Ve- nice, (where the only practical English architect of the day, the elegant and accomplished Inigo Jones was then a resident,) also imbibed the purest streams of art, entered still more deeply into its theory, and gave the world his admirable " Ele- , ments of Architecture ;" an art which, he says, requires no re- commendation where there are noble men or noble minds. He modestly admits that he is but a gatherer and disposer of other men's stuff; he yet gives to the world the soundest doctrines of practice, and the purest of taste. Inigo Jones was the great practical architect of this brilliant period of our history ; the Lord Chancellor Bacon, the philo- sophical director of the public taste ; Sir Henry Wotton, the learned theorist ; and king James, with his son and their en- lightened and brilliant courts, the truly royal and noble patrons of architecture and the rest of the fine arts. These eminent architectural masters acknowledged Vitruvius for their principal legislator, and estimated the learned labours of Palladio at their due value. When monarchs, like James and Charles, patronize architecture ; when statesmen, like Buckingham, Richlieu and Colbert ; when magnates, like, Pembroke and Bedford, encou- rage its productions from love of its beauties, from principle, and from a studious conviction of its importance ; when legis- lators and philosophers like Bacon, ambassadors like Wotton, and architects like Jones, study, pi'actice and write upon it and its principles — the art is both ennobled and ennobles, and it must flourish abundantly. Jones and Wren, two of the greatest names in English art, loved architecture as an art, practised it as a precession, but despised it as a trade. When architecture is so patronized, so studied, and so practised, it will rise to a level with the best days of Greece and Rome ; but not till then. It will be in vain that details are only sought for from books, unless the spirit and the mind of the great geniuses of antiquity animate the artist. Vain will it be, if he should '•^ Line after line, widi painful patience trace, This Roman grandeur, that Athenian grace ; Vain care of parts ; if, impotent of soul, Th' industrious workman fail to warm tbc whole." TiCKELL. 2 H 110 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. What a community of master-minds were cotemporaneous in the period upon which I have just been dilating ! Paterculus observes, with much judgment, that great men generally are cotemporaries. The spark given by one, is caught by the others, and poets, painters, - architects and philosophers, are elicited into one bright blaze of cotemporary and universal in- tellect. Now let us continue our peregrinations, and examine that circular building of the Corinthian order, which I before noted, as forming so excellent a foreground piece to the view of St. George's Chapel. See the print of St. George's Chapel, Regent Street, and that of part of the east side of Regent Street. It stands at the south-west angle of Argyle Place, and breaks, by its agreeable circular form, the monotony of perpetually re- curring salient angles at the corners of the streets which inter- sect the main body of Regent Street. Its rotund convex form, also contrasts, in a very picturesque and satisfactory manner, with the rotund concave forms of the four corners of the inter- section of Oxford Street and Regent Street, and shews the fecundity of the artist's mind who has produced so much va- riety in similar situations. The main feature of the building is a peristyle of coupled columns of the Corinthian order, raised on a stylobate, and surmounted upon a basement of piers and camber arches, which form the windows and door of the ground floor, or shop story. The columns are covered by a proper en- tablature of the order, of rather a feeble character, with a blocking course, piers, and balustrades over the intercolumnia- tions. Between the columns are the lofty windows of the one pair floor, or principal story, and behind the balustrade is ele- vated a well proportioned attic story, with, windows over those below. This story is crowned by a circular unbroken cornice and scamilli, which are covered with a' hemispherical cupola by way of roof. The design of this building, whether regarded as a portion of the entire arrangement of the architecture of the street, or in- dependently of it, deserves approbation ; since it displays utility as a commercial building, with beauty as an architectural com- position. A slight turn from the continuity of the street, brings us to a row of handsome shop buildings, which reach from the cir- i>-a. ra'b t.n'H",. .tir prn-^ lgWlILIE)EH(&g ©M TMIE ^-^'"ISA^T ^IBIE -©IF IRIEGIE-H^ ^Tm]E:ET. Publisli£d. -ezi- l&2b bv Janes Sr C: . ■■ Zir.pV.a^c. 3.oafi _an5.ar.. p,iM.5hpfl Tn-nj- 5,1826. Tjy Jones fc C 5. Acton Place.IQngslBnd Koa^ Xondon.. METR0P9LITAN IMPROVEMENTS. H] cular building on the north to the comer of the next street southwardly. This is as picturesque a range of buildings as any between Portland Place and Pall Mall, and exhibits the peculiar talent of its architect in a striking manner. The shop, or ground story, forms one straight continuous Une, of a simple unbroken entablature from end to end, covering with its broad frieze the upper parts of the windows. The epistylia of the centre buildings are supported by antse or pilasters, and of the wings by stylagalmatic termini of female heads. The shop windows and doors intervene, and with a well-proportioned ba- lustrade elevated on a blocking course above the cornice, com- plete the composition ; which forms an appropriate, useful and handsome, basement for the architectural elevation of the dwelling part of the houses. The superior elevation , consists of five parts, namely, a centre, two wings, and two receding- parts of the main body of the composition. The latter part consists but of two stories above the shop entablature, whilst the centre and the two wings have three ; and project boldly before the main body of the building : — indeed sufficiently so, as you may perceive by turning a little this way, to hold windows for the centre house, and returns of the panels in flanks for the wings, which pro- duce a good eifect in the returns, and show a composition in perspective. See the print of part of the east side of Regent Street, with a view of All Soul's Church in the distance. I have before mentioned this mode of architectural composi- tion, when we were examining the villa of Sir James Langham, in Langham Place, and endeavoured to show its superiority over the geometrical board and square elevations of the carpenter's drawing schools, which omit all consideration of the flank in their mode of composition. The central building of this pleasing structure, to which I crave leave to call your particular attention, as comprising all merits and many of the defects of the school of the able ar- chitect who designed it, is composed of an inverted tetrastyle portico of the Ionic order, inclosed between large panelled piers which support, with the columns, the entablature. The wings are similar, except that they are not so wide, and the porticoes have but two columns included in the openings, between the piers. The main receding building has no columns, but the 112 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. cornice of the wings and centre is carried through without any break, except at the angles of the building. In the intercolumniations are two stories of windows, the upper tier of which rests upon a string which is carried through the whole elevation, and forms a connecting tie, as well as au appropriate division of the stories. The lower tier of win- dows in the. main receding building, is composed of six wide and handsome Palladian windows vfith pediments ; and the upper tier has dressings of architrave and cornice round each ■yvindow. This portion of the elevation is finished with a lofty blocking course over the cornice, which elevates and serves as a base for a handsome balustrade that crowns the whole, and forms a light and handsome finish to the roofs. The centre and wings have long attic windows over the whole openings, formed by the piers beneath them, and a sort of grotesque antae-baluster supports the upper part. Its square panel-s formed of square sinkings in the stucco, serve as em- bellishments to the piers both in face and in flank, over the long panels with Grecian angular frets in the comers of the prin- cipal story. These are surmounted at a proper height by a small sub-cornice and blocking course, with immense! ill-pro- portioned semicircular acroteria, ornamented with caricatures of the Greek honeysuckle, which I heartily wish the first brick- layer's labourer who may be employed next winter to throw the snow out of the gutters. Would have the good taste to pitch over with the rest of the rubbish, to Macadamize the street with. Thus much for the elevation, which, as a whole, shows a mind alive to picturesque composition, to light and shade, to agreeable form, to proportion, and to most of the loftier fea- tures of architectural composition ; but, in the minor graces of detail, in which our masters, the Greeks, so eminently excelled all that preceded or succeeded them, an eye, either cold to beauty or contemptuous of its charms. The Ionic order of the principal stories is robbed of its frieze, and therefore wants height. This grammatical error gives the building the appear- ance of being constructed like some of the churches in modern Rome, with the columns of their predecessors ; which being too lofty to admit of a perfect entablature, and, therefore the frieze, an integral part of every order, is omitted by virtue of METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 113 that law, " compulsion," which even FalstafF himself would not submit to. Again, the cornice of the Attic order is too small and trivial for its place, and the moulded semi-Gloucester cheeses on the blocking course most outrageously too large. The stylagalmatic termini, which support the shop cornice, are any thing but in good taste ; and yet the whole, not because, but in spite of these deficiencies in taste and selection of detail, presents a bold and highly picturesque composition. The depth of the receding parts between the centre and the wings, is productive of great variety of light and shade, and the entire design forms a pleasing composition, of which the combination discovers both judgment and skill, with a very considerable share of novelty. An amiable friend of mine, who, a few years since, occasion- ally aided me with his friendly pen in " the An7ials of the Fine Arts,"* has some opinions so completely in accordance with my own views on this head, that I cannot resist the pleasure of calling in his aid. "Works of architecture," says my friend, " are not to be judged by precisely the same rules by which we appreciate the productions of the poet, the painter and the sculptor. These, indeed, require no external assistance in. order to enable them to embody the conceptions of their minds. With the architect it is different ; he is dependant upon cir- cumstances, over which he possesses but small control ; and is perpetually subjected to restraint arising from the caprice and in- terference of others. To these causes, in conjunction with others of a pecuniary nature, is to be attributed the vast disproportion, both as to number and excellence, between buUdings which have been executed and those which have been merely projected." In estimating the merits of a piece of architecture, the true question is. Has the artist availed himself to the fullest extent of all the capabilities of his plan ? Has he effected as much as it was possible to accomplish in the allowed extent ? Has he ob- viated the peculiar diflSculties with which he has had to con- tend? After mature examination, and in spite of the prejudices which my unbounded admiration of the beauties of the Greek school may have fastened upon my mind, I have often been led to admire, not only the skill by which the Architect of Regent • Vol. 4, p. 512. 2 I 114 METEOPOUTAN IMPROVEMENTS. Street (and that is a title that will always distinguish and honour his name), has surmounted many obstacles, but also the happy contrivances by which in effecting these he has elicited positive beauties. The street that we are now surveying is replete with such qualities ; and when it was commenced, I took the opportunity afforded me by my situation as Lecturer on Architecture at the Surrey and Russell Ins'titutions, where criticisms on the buildings of the day were required of me, to state publicly, that " the new street now in formation from Pall Mall to Portland Place is a great and useful undertaking ; possessing as a whole a grand and commanding character, with more architectural fila- tures and vaiiety than any large work that we have seen since the rebuilding of London after the great fire. Yet it has many blemishes ;"* I thought so then, and the many and very parti- cular examinations that I have given of its various buildings from then till now, confirm me in this opinion ; and to borrow an apology from my before-quoted friend of " the Annals" in the same article, if I have at times presumptuously ventured to cavil at slight imperfections, it is not because I consider them sufficient to detract from the obvious and aggregate excellences of the design ; but because I am of opinion that the criticism which would really instruct, ought to discuss candidly both defects and beauties ; and not actuated by sinister motives either invi- diously disparage, or puffingly extol. Above all, it is my object to avoid that nauseating sycophancy, which is generally found to characterize the labours of those cicerones who, professing to furnish the stranger with a guide, too often mislead the judg- ment. Men, who hardly dare to " hint a fault, or hesitate dis- like," and their unqualified commendations, says my friend, are not likely to assist in arriving at the ninth beatitude, " Blessed are they who expect nothing, for they shall not be disap- pointed." Therefore, as I before hinted, with all these merits, I consider Regent Street to possess many blemishes ; some of the archi- tectural specimens being in a taste absolutely barbsirous, and mixed with others equally pure and refined. Its masses, great parts and divisions, are grand and effective ; and its breaks and ■ * Lectures on Architecture, by J. Elmes, p. 403. June 16 1827 "by Jones k L- J.Accon Jlauc >Ji;i5s; L^riJ. Road london. Ilrs.--n bjITio'T! Sheplierd- MACCLBSFIEJLID) BSiDGE, M-E'S-ENIT'S PARK. Engraved by KAjtoa :^: . ARCHITECT. THIS PLATE l^ WOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY T H, SHEFHEBD i l-j jiiii June 16. 1S27 by Jones Jt CfS Acton Place. Kingsland. Rnad. Xgndoa 'r':£i-% '^JWABmA.FTir, ak© 3=AKiT 'or L^is-E-v-Emr st^^sst. ubliih^i le"b?16. 1S23, 3T Joaes w C"? 3, A:-.?r,PZ£: : ITir-^iland . t ; 1 :_oi:da- ISA^MOMKC SHSTlCTTTTTirOH, lEEt&IEHT ^TTMEIEir; i^Vjshei Fefc^iS :S.''8 V Joaea t C* 5 Aeon Place ?1-.p3"i^-d;-(oac.lor.don METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 115 general outline productive of an agreeable variety of light and shade, whilst at the same time it is entirely free from that dull monotony of elevation which is so wearisome in many of our new streets. It is also, I there said, the finest work now in progress, and has given an architectural feature to the metro- polis, that was so much wanted as a rehef from the eternal two windows iron railing and a door, — two windows iron railing and a door, — of the (then) new streets and squares of St. Mary- le-bone. Until this great undertaking, our architecture seemed selfish aiid internal. Windows undecorated externally, and made solely to give light and air to the interior ; and doors placed in square brick holes, whose only service seemed to be to exclude strangers, were the prevalent features of modern English do- mestic buildings ; whereas architecture, on the contrary, should exhibit the taste and wealth of the master of the mansion, by its exterior to the observing stranger ; as well as contribute to the internal comfort and splendour of the family and its imme- diate friends. All the buildings in this street are not, however, designed by Mr. Nash, who is entitled to the honour of being its first pro- jector, its indefatigable continuer against obstacles almost insur- mountable, and its successful completer against numerous pro- phecies of its failure and ruin. The row below that which we have just been examining, belongs to the eminent wine merchant, Mr. Carbonel, who figures in the history of Brinsley Sheridan. It was designed by Mr. Robert Abraham, who is also the ar- chitect of the County Fire Office ; but he must give way for the present to Mr. Soane, the classical professor of architecture in the Royal Academy, who designed that long and lofty row of buildings on the opposite side of the way. How thronged the street is ! we must wait till this regi- ment of Life Guards, and this, almost army of carriages, horse- men and foot passengers have passed, before we can catch a glimpse at it. Who, judging by this never ending throng, which, as a moving mass, reaches from Hyde Park Corner to Whitechapel Church, can think London too large for its wants ; although its amazing enlargement on eveiy side is almost a miracle. If honest Tom Freeman, the Gloucestershire man, who published, in a collection of epigrams, in 1614, one called 116 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. " London's Progresse," were permitted to have a day or two to witness its progress in 1827, he would have far more reason to exclaim .now than in his day, " Why, how nowe, Babell, whether wilt thon bnild? I see old Holborne, Charing Crosse, the Strand, Are going to St. Giles's in the field. St. Kateme she takes Wapping by the hand, And Hogsdon will to Hygate ere't be long. ■ London is got a great way from the streame, I thinke she means to go to Islington, To eate a dish of strawberries and creame. The citty's sure in progresse I snrmise. Or going to revell it in some disorder Without the walls, without the liberties. Where she neede feare, nor mayor, nor recorder. Well, say she do, 'twere pretty, yet 'tis pitty, A Middlesex bailin should arrest the citty." St. Katherine, however she may once have taken Wapping by the hand, has now left her dingy spouse, and taken refuge under the protection of the more fashionable and better dressed Regent's Park ; buying her liberty by largesses of docks and warehouses to her mercenary old yoke-fellow of Wapping old stairs. As we cannot yet obtain a favourable view of Mr. Soane's structure, let me call- your attention to that well-proportioned arched gateway in the Italian style of architecture, with a window and cornice over it. It is the new entrance front to Archbishop Tennison's chapel, built in 1823, after the designs of Mr. C. R. Cockerell, the architect of St. George's Chapel in the upper part of this street, that we examined a short time since. The front next Regent Street consists of a wide and lofty arch, with channelled rusticated piers and voussoirs. Over the key stone is a string course of solid masonry, a dressed window, and a cornice and blocking course by way of finish. The arched gateway leads to the vestibule of the chapel, which spreads behind the houses in the street. There is not in the whole street a design more chaste in decoration, more harmoni- ous in proportion, or move judicious in appropriation. Simpli- city, and consequently modest dignity, distinguish this har- monious elevation, which possesses, notwithstanding its narrow limits, a general symmetry and proportion as delightful to the eye as it is creditable to the taste of its author. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 117 Now that the cloud of human beings, horses, carriages and the dust of Mr. Loudon M'Adam has somewhat dispersed, and permits us to have a glimpse at Mr. Soane's row of buildings, let us walk on and consider it in flank from the north, in front, and again from the south. There are many reasons for this peculiar consideration of this very original and singular com- position. First, because the tasteful architect of the pile is accused of having attempted in it what he himself calls " the philosopher's stone of architecture," a new order : next, because he was ridiculous enough to suffer himself to be persuaded, while suffering under a painful disease of the eyes, to bring an action against the critic for thus libelling him : and also, because he has in one or two instances deviated from those sound rules of Grecian architecture, which are not too lightly to be sacrificed, or deviated from, only by a great master, who is thoroughly conversant in the nature of all the combinations of his art. Mr. Soane, I consider to be such a master, and therefore, has by prescription, a right to make such deviations and to take such Uberties, as long as he keeps within the bounds of good taste, and runs not into a capricious riot of doubtful vagaries. Let us take a stand in this quiet angle, and survey his com- position, one of the largest examples of domestic architecture, except perhaps his Bank Buildings in Lothbury, that he has ex- ecuted ; and as he is one of the master-spirits of his art in our days, an investigation of such a design from the hand of such an artist cannot be a loss of time. First, Mr. Soane was offended at the critic, for accusing him of the crime of endeavouring to invent a new order of archi- tecture, although he has introduced a novel description of co- lumns as supporters to his balconies, which we will examine in detail presently, when we cross the street. On this subject, I remember hearing Mr. Soane declaim in tlie Royal Academy to us of his students in the spring course of lectures in 1819, when he said, that the ignis fatuus of phi- losophy,* the search after the philosopher's stone, occupied the attention and bewildered the minds of the learned for ages ; ♦ From manuscript notes taken by me in February 1819, and reported in the Aanals of the Fine Arts, vol. 4, p. 289. 2 K 118 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. and some followers of architecture have also wandered out of their paths in the endeavour to discover or invent a new order, the philosopher's stone of architecture. The architects of Italy in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries made many attempts of this kind, and in the reign of Louis XIV. the fancy extended to France. Would it had stopped there ; but unfortunately the mania attacked this country also, and various futile attempts were made in this way. In France a sixth order, absolutely new in all its parts, mouldings and ornaments, was reported to have been invented by Pierre de la Roche, In the reign of our Edward III. his son, the black prince, in consequence of his victory over the French at the battle of Cressy, adopted the crest of ostrich feathers worn by the king of Bohemia, who was killed in that battle, and it has been retained by all suc- ceeding princes of Wales. With this beautiful badge, says Mons. de la Roche, I adorn the capital of my new order, and from the beauteous and graceful delicacy of the nodding plumes, from their enlarged size and bold projections, they must, when thus applied, rank far above the Corinthian order ! We are further told, that this order was absolutely new in all its parts, and that it must eventually and infallibly supersede the Corinthian, as it only required the sanction of antiquity to make it generally adopted ; and, says Pierre de la Roche, when " mi/ order " shall be hereafter found among the ruins of palaces and cities, the eflFects of cotemporary jealousy having subsided, then will posterity give the honour due to my invention ! How far the inventor's anticipated idea of the opinions of posterity upon the design may be justified, said our able professor, I know not, for as yet this new order has never been executed in any single instance. Other architects, besides the one that Mr. Soane has cited, have tried their hands upon a new order. In Sir William Chambers' valuable treatise on civil architecture, there are no less than six. One of Flora composed of leaves and tendrils, which is but a species of the genus Corinthian, although Sir William terms it Composite. A second of Mars, composed of Amazons, with curved draperies over their elbows, supporting the abacus at the angles for the volutes and caulicolae, an ar- morial trophy with shields, and an empty helmet for the rose in the centre. A third of Apollo, with a sphinx at every corner, METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 119 peeping out over the second tier of Corinthian leaves, under the pent house of the abacus. A fourth, which he calls the French order, composed of palms for the volutes, a cock for the central flower, and tasteless lyres between the palm branches, which serve as stems to the caulicolse. A fifth of Venus, the lower part of which, the abacus and central volutes, are strictly Corinthian, whilst the cauhcolee and angular volutes are formed of dolphin's tails, the heads of these loving fish nearly meeting under an escallop shell, which supports the central volutes. And the sixth is of Mars, which resembles that of his paramour in the lower half, but has ram's heads and horns in the upper, which, by the way, would be a more characteristic appendage to the capital of the injured spouse of the goddess. Yet of this attempt to make a new order. Sir William says,* " the ingenuity of man has, hitherto, not been able to produce a sixth order, though large premiums have been ofiered, and numerous attempts have been made, by men of first rate talents, to accomplish it. Such is the fettered human imagination, such the scanty stores of its ideas, that Doric, Ionic and Corinthian, have ever floated uppeimost ; and all that has ever been produced, amounts to nothing more than difierent arrange- ments and combinations of their parts, with some trifling devi- ations scarcely deserving notice ; the whole generally tending more to diminish than to increase the beauty of the ancient orders." Sebastian le Clerc, a French artist of some ability, who wi-ote and published a treatise on architecture, that was translated into English by Chambers in 1732, and is much cited by him in his own larger work, has also given two new orders. One he names the Spanish order, and pronounces it to be more ele- gant than the Roman or Composite, both in the whole and in its parts. The leaves are plain, such as are often called water- leaves, vnth grenate stalks rising among them. The horns of the abacus are supported by small volutes, and the centre is decorated with a lion's head instead of a rose, which noble ani- mal, the author says, he need not mention, is the symbol of Spain ; and that it expresses the strength and gravity as well as the prudence of the people of that nation. He also gives a • Page 153 of Gwilt's (that is the best modernl edition of 1824. 120 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. second design for a Spanish order, and leaves the architect at liberty to choose which of them he likes best, flattering himself that either the one or the other will do very well, if executed by a good sculptor. Further, in the frieze, he says, over this capital may be added a terrestrial globe with cornucopias, palms and laurels, which are significant ornaments, he observes, that explain themselves. To the globe in the frieze, he has ap- pended the heraldric ornament of the knightly collar of the golden fleece which hangs down on to the architrave. The other he calls the French order, which he conceives to possess as great a share of delicacy, richness and beauty as is practicable with- out running into excess. The ornaments of the capital are three fleurs de lis on each side, with palms, and the badge of France, a cock; arms underneath, and a lyre in the shade of the palms under each horn of the abacus, which are so many sym- bolical ornaments, he adds, that persons of understanding will conceive without any difficulty. Crowns are introduced as or- naments in the frieze, and a sun shining in the middle ; whence it will be easily apprehended, he says, " that this order is conse- crated TO THE Glory of the Grand Monaeque." Cock a doodle doo ! " This order," he exultingly exclaims, " will have the noblest, the most beautiful, and agreeable effect imaginable : I have made," he continues, clapping his wings, " a little model of it in rilievo, which I never see without pkasure." Although Sir William Chambers translated this balderdash in 1732, yet when he published his own matured treatise in 1759, in animadverting upon such vagaries, he says, " the sub- stitution of cocks, owls, or lion's heads &c. for roses ; qf tro- phies, cornucopias, lilies, sphinxes, or even men, women and children for volutes ; the introduction of feathers, lyres, flower- de-luces, or coronets for leaves ; are more alterations than im- provements ; and the suspension of flowers, or collars of knight- hood, over the other enrichments of a capital, like lace on embroidery, rather tends to complicate and confuse the form, than to augment its grace, or contribute to its excellence." You may remember, that I have more than once during our survey, spoken of the propensity of some of the architects of this street and neighbourhood to despoil the orders of distinc- tive parts, such as the omission of friezes, or architraves, and sometimes both, and other similar violations of propriety. Of .~ra-',:i3V Tho' 5 SheoUzu. tiv W om -1 TO HIS GRAC^ TEZ DLTXE OF V.'zx_^j^-7C-T02" TnTS PH/^TE. :S RZ SP£ C TFr 1,L"-' ::r3CP.rBED. PufalisEad- I/arch. 1 1328 oy Jones k C°3 Acton PlE.ce Sng'slaTid Roa-d Lender. 1 bv Llio? H .Shop'h^rd- isiJC'SiiSS^T stss:et, :!Fisom the 5>xta:'jsa?it, f'.jbUsbcd Karen, x io26 Cv Jor-: J'j C?3-Actor i'.^.ie Kinririana Eoad loodoa ,. " ^. *• METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 121 this practice, Sir William says with the greatest truth, that " the suppres- sion of parts of the ancient orders, with a view to produce novelty, has of late years" (one would think that the worthy knight of the Polar star was peeping down upon some of our new mansions and palaces), " been practised among us vpith full as little success. And though it is not wished to restrain sallies of imagination, nor to discourage genius from attempting to invent; yet it is apprehended, that attempts to alter the primary forms invented hy the ancients, and established hy the concurring approbation of many ages, must ever he attended with dangerous consequences, must always be difficrdt, and seldom, if ever, successful. It is like coining words, which, whatever may be their value, are at first but ill received, and must have the sanction of time to secure them a current reception." As we have now taken a general view of the origin and progress of the Metropolitan Improvements, let us proceed to a brief view of such subjects that we have hitherto passed over, which are of sufficient im- portance to require our investigation and the pencil of our artist. We will therefore proceed to Pall Mall, and take a view northwards up the street, which is approached, from the new opening into the Park, by Waterloo Place. This grand opening is formed by the removal of sundry old dismal looking houses on the north side of Pall Mall, opposite the late Carlton house ; and consists of two sides of a large square, or piazza, open to Pall Mall, and the new opening into St. James's Park. The third or north side is perforated in the centre by Regent Street, to which Waterloo Place forms a capacious opening, like that of a fine estuary opening from the sea, and forming the mouth of a great river. The east and west sides of Waterloo Place, are similar in design and elevation. They consist of a centre formed by an Ionic portico raised on a basement which forms the entrance story, and two flanks of Ionic pilas- ters corresponding with the columns, and raised on a similar basement. On the top of the entablature is raised an attic order, perforated by the windows of the upper story. The north side is similar in height, and consists of an Ionic tetrastyle portico, projecting from the plain flanks of the first row of buildings up Regent Street. These porticoes are crowned by a blocking course and balustrades between solid pedestals over each column. The ground story of these pavUion-like buildings are perforated by three windows, under the intercolumniations of the order above it, decorated with architraves to the sides and entablatures over the lintels. The line of the principal story, is here well marked by a broad and very 2l 122 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. effective string course, on which the order of architecture that gives cha-* racter to the design, and which embraces the entire height of the prin- cipal and two pair stories, is elevated. The upper stories of this edifice are in the roof, and lighted by the balusters. The principal story has semicircular headed windows, with, archivolts springing fi-om moulded imposts, and the chamber story has plain square windows without decorations. The sides, or rather the principal fronts of these pavilions next Regent Street correspond in elevation, except that the projecting porticoes have a greater number of columns, and the receding sides are perfcwated by win- dows, which are necessary in this instance for the interior use. Waterloo Place, and this portion of Regent Street, which is imme- diately attached to it, embrace all the beauties and all the defects of Mr. Nash, their ingenious architect's style. Grand and effective as a whole, rich in composition and mind, but sadly defective in elegance and correct- ness of detail. It is a reformed Italian, but still below Grecian purity. Before we leave this spot, let us turn round, and take a farewell leave of the remains of Carlton House, which once formed the southern tenai- nation of this magnificent street. See plate of Regent Street, from the Circus, Piccadilly. When Carlton House, or Palace, stood on the southern side of Pall MaO, with the before mentioned ordinary dismal looking dwelling houses only in front of it, its then splendid portico and beautifiil wings looked of sufficient importance ; but when these houses were pulled down and the loftier houses of Waterloo Place erected, and the rising ground of Regent Street opened, so that we looked down upon and saw the majestic towers of Westminster rising above it, it assiuned a mean and low appearance. Its removal therefore is by no means to be regretted, and the fine opening that is made in its stead, is one of the greatest improvements in this spot of almost magical transformations. We will now take a cursory view of York House, St. James's Park, built for his Royal Highness the late Duke of York, and purchased of his executors by the Marquess of Stafford. This splendid palace is quadrangular and insulated, presenting foiu' architectural elevations of great beauty and giandeur. Its principal front, which has a projecting portico for carriages to drive under, is to the north, next Cleveland Place ; the next in point of deco- ration faces the east, and is entered from the stable yard, opposite the new palace of his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence ; the park front is to the south, and overlooks St. James's Park and its own private grounds, and lf@R]E M®lDrgJE, BT IardRcB:d.Lor.dDn. Dravo!. bj Tho B. Shcpberi Eatfra-Te 1-1)7 S.W.Bond. trom: pall mail east Brawn \iy Tho i\ , bnepdcrd . Engraved by H W oond SlfflflFOILIK SITKEET, FAJLIL MAJLl. EAST. Publiahed Jaa.10. 1829. ty Jones Sl C"TFinpl.e of the Mites. T^biry Square, iotidoii METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS, 123 the western front faces the Green Park and His Majesty's new palace, now building on the site of Buckingham House. This beautiful mansion, which is hereafter to be the residence of that munificent patron of the fine arts and artists, of his native country, the Marquess of Stafford, is designed by the brothers Benjamin and Philip Wyatt, Esqs., sons of the late James Wyatt, and is worthy of the name. The character of the building is palatial and splendid; it is com- posed of hexastyle porticoes of the Corinthian order, which occupy the height of the principal story, raised on piers and the openings between them covered with semicircidar arches. On the roof is a raised story which lights a spacious picture gallery. The house stands in its own grounds, which form a beautiful horticultural accessory to the archi- tecture. The next recent great improvement is The New Opening to St. Martin's Church, the best view of which is from Pall Mall East. The want of this opening was complained of so long ago as in 1734, by Ralph, an architectural critic of some consideration, who has the credit of first suggesting this manifest improvement, which forms an architectural pictui-e of great beauty. The building on our left is called the King's Mews, and were formerly the royal stables. It is now used for an ex- hibition of works of art, manufactures, &c. and was designed by the great Earl of Burlington. That on oinr right is the portico of the College of Physicians, a new building by Mr. Smirke, and forms, with its iQustrious opponent, a fine architectural frame to Gibbs's beautiful portico of the church of St. Martin in the Fields, which is now seen to its deserved advantage. The portico is fine, but the spire and tower, though far sm-- passing many of more recent date, is, compared with those of Sir Chris., topher Wren, mean and inefficient. We win now take a look at Suffolk Street, Pall Mall East, a street inhabited by architects, and replete with many architectural beauties. Among these is the Italian Ionic house on our right, an appropriate design enough for an Italian warehouse, whose purposes are farther indicated by the oil jars on the acroterium of the entablatiu-e. Another, the residence of Mr. Cresy, the architect, is a fac-sinule of Andrea Pallacho's house at Vicenza, and a third, on the same side of the way, the house with a projecting Roman Doric portico, elevated on three semicir- cular arches, is the house and spacious galleries of the Society of British 124 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS, Artists, the portico of which is designed hy Mr. Nash, and the suite of six octagonal galleries, all on one floor, and lighted from above, were de- signed by and erected under the directions of your humble serrant. Mr. Lewis Wyatt and Mr. H. Kendall, both architects whose talents have tended towards the embeUishment and improvement of the meti'opolis, have houses in this classical little street, in which also is tlie stage en trance and green room of the Haymaiket Theatre. Another great improvement, and classical ornament to this portion of the metropolis, is The New College of Physicians, Pall Mall East, another design of Mr. Smirke's, and which forms part of a fine group with the Union Club House. The principal front of this substantial and elegant structure is next Pall Mall East, and is composed of an hexas- tyle projecting portico of the Ionic order, which supports a weU-propor- tioned pediment. The front is elongated by two antae, one on each side of the portico, which are repeated with a break between them, in the flank or eastern front, and has a distinguishing centre-piece, of two slightly- projecting antae, and an elevated attic, with a balustrade in each wing. The building is divided into two stories, and the windows are decorated with architraves and sub-cornices. The columns are beautiftdly wrought with a delicate entasis, or swell, so characteristic of the pure Greek school, of which its architect, Mr. Smirke, is so distinguished a disciple. The architrave, however, is disfigured by three facise, which should never be allowed to enter (in spite of ancient precedent) into any order but the Corinthian, in order to keep the characteristics of each distinct. The efiect of this portico, in the latter part of a fine summer's day, is beautifiil; diversified, as it is, by the deep and broad shadow cast from the entablature and pediment; the perpendicular lines of the fluted columns, and the contrast of the shadowed eastern front, which continued, forms with a corresponding wing, and a receding portico of the same order, the principal front of the Union Club House. In our view of the new opening to St. Martin's Church, this portico now so beautifiil in light, forms in shade an equally beautifiil forepiece to the picture. We will now cross over to the other side of King Charles's statue, and take a general view of the Improvements, Charing Cross. Foremost in this view is the statue of the unhappy and unfortunate Charles the First, which is of bronze, and cast in 1633, by Le Sueur, a French sculptor of great talent, who wrought the beautifiil brass monument Dri :i 7 — TO r-iOBEP^r BRZE >r.X). THIS f:j-.te is i.:o;t rxspzcttully inscribfii. Piffisied Anril 26 1628 bv Jones gr C° 3 Acton Pkce Z.rJi'-Erd £.oai londoa. '^r^'/Ti bv rto TO IKOf HOPE ESQ. THIS PLATE IS RE 5 ;■ t C io-nlishcd April 26 'S"8 bj" Jones -fc C 3, AoLon "lacc 9SS. rrVLLY -DEDICATED Kir^iland Roai London, ijr-x.-.-x-l)','" 1.10 'EL She; TIEIE IL^lfBOM TUHIlTEmSITT. TO HENUY BROUGHAM ESQ: M P. AKD THOMA:. CAMPBEIL ESQTOWHr.:L UNITED XXEE.T10TJS, lONDOlT IS INDEBTED FOR HER UTsTIVERS ITY". THIS PLATE IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED Tiiblished Nov; 15. 1826. 'cy Jones &: C° Temple of the lliises. HnsburySqaareXandoa. TEMPLE OF Tmm MTDTSES, FIHSBUIRY S^TUARE. TO HENRY BROUGHAM ESQ M P. FROM WHOSE SUGGESTION THE SERIES . or' JONKS' UNIVERSJiy EDITION OF BRITISH CIJVSSIC AUTHORS' WAS COMMENCED. THIS PLATE IS RESPECTFOLLY r,, INSCRIBED BY THE PtTBLISHEHS METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 125 of the Duke of Buckingham, in Henry fhe Seventh's Chapel, for the Earl of Arundel. After the execution of the king, the parliament ordered it to he sold hy auction, when it was purchased hy a cutler in Holbom, of the name of Revett, who pretended to melt it down and make handles for knives of it. He, in fact, caused knives with bronze handles to be exposed to sale in his shop, by which he soon made a fortune ; the faction which opposed the king being all desirous of having some part of his statue de- based to a knife-handle. The loyal cutler, however, concealed it till the restoration of Charles the Second, when he presented it to that king, who caused it to be erected in its present situation. The large buildiag, directly opposite, is the Union Club House and the Royal College of Physicians, the white house, in the middle distance, the bank of Ransom & Co. £md that with the colonnade, in the extreme distance, crovraed with a lofty slated roof, the King's Theatre, or Italian Opera House. The London University, is erected upon the eastern side of an area of about seven acres of free- hold ground, between Upper Gower Street, Bedford Square, and the New Road. The council obtained designs fi'om several architects of eminence, and after due deliberation, finally adopted that of William WUMns, Esq. R.A. a selection in which their own judgment coincided with that of almost every proprietor who inspected the drawings. The building in its execution had the benefit of the superintendance of Mr. J. P. Gandy Deering, A.R.A., the author of the well known Work on Pompeii, in con- junction with Mr. WUldns, and consists of a central part (see plate of the London University J four himdred and thirty feet in length, with two wings, forming together three sides of a quadrangle, the central poitico looking westward. That part of the edifice which is now fijiished, contains four theatres for lectures, each capable of containing fom: hundred and forty students ; two lecture rooms that will accommodate two hundred and seventy stu- dents each ; five lecture rooms that wiQ accommodate about one hundred and seventy each ; a library and museum, each one hundred and eighteen feet in lengtli, by fifty feet in breadth, and twenty-three feet in height ; a hall for public occasions, ninety feet in length, by forty-five feet in breadth, and twenty-three feet in height ; an anatomical museum ; a complete suite of rooms for the professors and students of anatomy and surgery ; a labo- ratory and apparatus room for the professor of chemistry ; rooms for the recepflon of the apparatus of the professor of mechanical philosophy, and several smaller apartments for the accommodation of the council, the pro- fessors and officers of the establishment. 2 M 126 ■ METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The London Institution. The gound story of this building is divided into an entrance hall, vesti- bule, stairs to the library and comdor leading to the lecture room, labora- tory, &c., besides reading and newspaper rooms, the librarian's private apartments, &c. The upper story is the library, which occupies the whole front. The elevation, which faces the south, and catches great picturesque variety from the sun, is. divided perpendicularly into three principal parts or features ; namely, a projecting portico of two stories, and two vidngs or continuations laterally of the front, with two minor sub-vnngs, corresponding with the lower order of the portico; and horizontally into two principal orders and three stories. The lower order is appropriated to the ground or entrance story, and is composed of a portico in antis of the Doric order, after an ancient example of very sturdy proportions. The entablature is carried through the whole line of front, and has wreaths of laurel leaves in the frieze substituted for the more characteristic triglyphs, which belong to the order. The front on each side of the portico is rusticated, and the apartments are lighted by windows, with semicircular heads. The upper stories are supported by the ground story, in the manner of a basement or pedestal story, and consist of a tetrastyle portico, of that species of the Corinthian order wMch Mr. Soane first used at the Bank of England, copied from the beautifiil circular temple, called the Sybils, at Tivoli. The sides are supported by antae between the windows, and an enta- blature surmounted by a balustrade, the piers of which are ornamented by heads of sarcophagi. The whole front is in good proportion, and harmo- nizes with the adjacent buildings remarkably well. St. Paul's School. This building is composed of three principal parts, a centre and two vdngs, connected by a continuation of the main body. The centre is a hexastyle portico of the TivoH-Corinthian order, elevated upon a rusti- cated basement of solid piers, one of which stands under every column, and leaves a footway for passengers between them. The wings are ele- vated on a similar basement, the apertures between the piers being con- verted into doors and windows. On these are raised an attached portico of two three-quarter columns in antis. The wings project the width of an antis, but the centre projects an entire intercolumniation more, and finishes with antae against the wall to support the entablature. The basement or entrance story is a continuation of the same airangement as the wings and Xh-avm hy Tho^ H Shepterd Zngraved W "W™ Deel)le. ST FATITIL'S SCMDOILd.- mSCIUBED TO THE RT REV? THE LORD BISHOP OF LLAiTOAFF. Scc.Scc DEAN OF ST PAULS, BY HIS OBLIG-ED SERV^ lAKES ELMES i^blished Sep. 29. 1827. "by Jones 3c C 3. Acton Place, Eingskud. Road. Londan DruviT. tiyTlio' IL Shepherd. TME ILOHBOIf ICHST2T lUrHDIf , TfS^^MVMJY CIRCUS. DEDICATED TO PROFESSOR MILLIHGTOK. "WHOSE LECTURES HAVE OTTrN ENLIGHTENZD flls HEARERS "WITHIN THESE V/i'J.l.S. BY HIS SINCERE TRIEND THE EDITOH _!■ v'-d Sep. .■?9.18^;'. h\ Jones tr C* iActoo Place, Knipsland Koad. London ■p-pyaved bT W^ Deelle. Dra.ir*iiby lio' HSkeplieid lEora-.-ea "bv V/' WaUi s ^QigTIEWARIK BIRIB'^IE, IFEOM BAHK S2ID)IS. Published J11I728.IS27. "by Joaes ic CiAcron Place, Km^sla-ndKoadXcmaco. Dr^wi. hy rio^a.Jj.q' i^uhlishcd, My 28.102/ b/ Jones k C 5 Acton Place Kttigaland tload- London 'Sn^z^rvi.'ur It^wr --'- - - -;■-'-' TZS I-T'-B-J^ SII©T MIIiIL, HEAm. WATS2il.®© BliHTj'S: aTci"bv jiijr>cs B -iHcii Drawn 1^T1lo7E. ShepHerd., 7V\"CfZIF[A]LIL3 IBUS-HB^IE, FB^^D-^m MIIILijL ©AmS. Jonesfc Cllonicm,. Julj25.1629 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 127 centre^ the openings between the rusticated piers being used for windows and entrances to the master's houses. The centre is appropriated to the school, and has lofty windows between the columns. The same height in the wings and intermediate portion of the building is divided into two stories, the lower of which has lofty windows, dressed with ai-chitraves and surmounted by entablatures, and the upper, square attic windows, with architraves on the tops, sides and sUls. The wings are surmounted by blocking-courses and acroteria upon the cornices, and the centre by a low attic and acroteria, upon the summit of which rises a cupola, in too fragile a style of decoration to accord well with the manly proportions of the rest of the building. SouTHWAEK Bridge. This bridge was designed by the late John Rennie, Esq. and executed under his direction. The magnificent centre arch is composed of a seg- ment of a circle, whose chord or span is two hundred and forty feet, its versed sine or height twenty-fom- feet, and the diameter of the circle of the cm-vature at the vertex or crovm of the arch six himdred and twenty- four feet, the side arches being two hundred and ten feet in .span. The arches are composed of eight ribs of solid masses of cast u'on, in the form of the voussoirs of stone bridges. These ribs are rivetted to Cast u'on diagonal braces to prevent racking. The frames of the arches are six feet in depth at theu- vertices, and the extrados of the voussoirs extend to eight feet at the springing of the arches. Many of the single pieces of this gigantic skeleton are of the enormous weight of ten tons each, and the total weight of the iron employed in its construction is between five and six thousand tons. This fine bridge, which is as elegant in its form as it is scientific in construction, was entirely built at the expense of a joint stock company. Its cost, including its present inefficient approaches, amounted to about eight hundred thousand pounds. The preparatory works were begun on tlie 23rd of September, 1814, and the first stone was laid by Admiral Lord Keith, on the 23rd of May, 1815. On the 7tli of June, 1817, the first stone of the northern abutment, on the site of the ancient Three Cranes Wharf, was laid by Alderman Wood, the Lord Mayor, and the bridge was opened to the public in April, 1819. Waterloo Bridge, was erected by the late John Rennie, fi-om the designs, it has been said, of the late Mr. Dodd ; but that great schemer only projected the work. 128 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. and took the design from Perronet's bridge over the Seine at Neuilly near Paris. The design as executed, consists of nine elliptical arches, with Grecian Doric columns in front of the piers, covered by an entablature, and sur- mounted by the anomalous decoration of a balustrade upon a Doric cornice. The road way upon the summit of the arches is level, in a line with the Strand, and is carried by a gentle declivity on a series of brick arches, some of which are used as warehouses, over the road-way on the Surry bank of the river, to the level of the roads about the Obelisk by the Surry Theatre. The width of the river in this part is 1326 feet at high water, which is covered by nine semi-elliptical arches, of 1^0 feet span, and thirty-five feet high, supported on piers thirty feet thick at the foundati<)ns, diminishing to twenty feet at the springing of the arches. They are eighty- seven feet in length, with points in the form of Gothic arches as cutwaters towards the stream. The dry or land arches on the Surry side are forty in number; thirty-nine of which are semi-circular, sixteen feet in diameter, and one semi-eUiptical, over the road-way of Narrow Wall, of twenty-six feet diameter. The entire length of the bridge and causeways is 2426 feet, made up of 1380 feet for the entire length of the bridge and abutments ; 310 feet, the length of the approach fi-om the Strand ; and 766 feet, the length, of the causeway on the land arches of the Surry side. The first stone was laid on the 11th of October, 1811. We will now proceed to that great national, and tastefiil building. The Bank of England; and first, we wUl begin with the principal front next Threadneedle Street. Our best position to see this richly variegated, picturesque and beautifiil front, vnU be from Bank Buildings : fi-om which spot the circular comer next Princes Street forms a striking foreground; the Royal Exchange on the right forms a good middle distance ; the old church of St. Bartholomew a capital object, from its singular antique tower, for the distance ; and the far-famed lucky lottery office of Richai-dson, Goodluck, and Co., from its solid form, and true Italian proportions of its Doric enti-ance story, (a de- sign of Sir Robert Taylor's), and which is now in strong shadow, for a powerful relief and contrast in the foreground. Thus have we in one ar- chitectiual picture, compositions by three great masters in our art. Sir Christopher Wren, Sir Robert Taylor and Mr. Soane. The establishment of this great and important coi-poration is piincipaUy ovring to the exertions of Mr. WiUiam Patterson, a native of Scotland, and Michael Godfrey, Esq. Those two gentlemen, after laboming with great assiduity for nearly three years, at last obtained the sanction of govern- ment, and in the spring of the year 1694 the Company of the Bank of -L>tBv-D. Q -■ ; CO j^ .Shcfiharl H(D3,IL'E ^y^M%T' Fl^©Kir ©Z iTIEIIl IBAI^IK ©IT :E1V^1.J^TZ) , IF^'DI^S Z^I TO J03CN SOAKE.ESQ^ THE ' AB-CJilTilCT, THIS PiATX IS RE £i^LC Tr V-Ll^V XHSCRIBED. JEIz^ ^-* ii'i J Tiiblished^ . 9. 1626. bv joiies ir C? 3,^-^ciGaHace VTr-.^ep-r.^ Eoai London. lEAST '—-fTa.-rsa. W V.' ' '/illYc . TfflnS MANTIS (OF IE3f&S.ASr©, AHID) HIEl^ T®'WIEiE, ®F PubUsTici Jiiig. 9. 1828. by Jones l- C. 3. Acton ..'lace, Kngsimd Road, londoc METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 129 England was incorporated by act of parliament. Sir John Houblon was its first governor, and Michael Godfrey, Esq., one of its foimders, its first deputy governor. This gi'eat national structure, which has now become so great an orna- ment to the heart of the city, was erected at various periods, and without due regard to the uniformity of the exterior. The first stone of the original building on the present site, then the dwelling-house and garden of Sir Jolm Houblon, was laid in 1732, and finished in 1736, fi-om the designs of Mr. George Sampson, in the Palladian style of architecture. This building comprised the original centi-e next Thi-eadneedle Street, that has been recently pulled down by Mr. Soane, and the present pay-hall, which is a spacious room seventy-nine feet in length and forty in breadth, yith a statue of King Williare, in whose reign it was founded, sculptured by Cheere. The wings next Threadneedle Street, the exterior of the Rotunda, stock ofiices, &c., next Bartholomew Lane, and of the dividend and other offices next Princes Street, were designed and erected between the years 1765 and 1788, by Sir Robert Taylor, from a design in imitation of the celebrated garden fi-ont of the pope's palace in Rome winch is published in Sir WiUiam Chambers's Treatise on Civil Archi- tecture, as a design of Bramante, one of the architects of St. Peter's at Rome. 1 The Rotunda was rebuilt in 1795, by Mr. Soane. It is a cii-cle of fifty-seven feet diameter in plan, and about the same in height. It is covered by a hemispherical cupola, and lighted by a lantern light, sup- ported and divided by caryatides, constmcted upon the central apertm-e or eye of the cupola. The perpendicular walls are di^dded at regular in- tervals by semicircular headed recesses, three of which seiTe for enti-ances, and the other for desks, &c. for the accommodation of the public. In this vast rotunda, the cupola of which fi-om the outside has so striking and elegant an appearance, the general and preparatory business for the pur- chase and sale of stock is transacted ; and the various offices appropriated to the management of each particular stock branch out fi-om it, and from its classical vestibule, which opens from Bartholomew Lane. In the year 1800 the widely increased concerns of the Bank made an increased establishment, and more space for the transaction of its business, necessary. The directors therefore made application ' to parliament for powers to enlarge their building. This was a favourable opportunity to render the exterior of the Bank one uniform pUe, and Mr. Soane lost no time to embrace it. He therefore submitted to the committee of directors a series of designs, to extend the north or Lothbmy firont westward, and to connect together the whole of the old offices and those which they then required to be erected, in order that the exterior of the Bank might there- after form one uniform appearance, which design they have just accom- 2 N 130 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. plished. The committee approved this design, which, I remember, at the time, made a considerable figure in the. Royal Academy exhibition, and a great impression upon the cognoscenti of the day, from the novelty of its arrangement and style of architecture, which was altogether new to the critics. This design has been acted on, without any deviation, excepting in the Lothbury front, where, after the old houses had been pulled down and the site cleared, the space being found insufficient for the portico which Mr. Soane originally proposed for the centre,, it was unavoidably contracted to meet this unforeseen circumstance, and to its great detriment. See plate of the Bank from Lothbury. Had a portico of six columns of TivoH Corinthian been added to this front, as the architect intended, it would have been one of the grandest and chastest elevations in modem executed architecture. In other respects I have the architect's ovni au- thority for stating that his general plan then submitted to the committee , has been followed. The whole of the exterior now presents as much uniformity as could possibly be expected in a building of such extent, continued progressively, as Mr. Soane observes in his new work, as cir- cumstances required, during a period of upwards of thirty years. When Mr. Soane was appointed to the important office of architect to this wealthy coi-poration, the frivolous wings and petty style of Sir Robert Taylor were comparatively new, having been recently erected at a very considerable expense. Mr. Soane, as I have just mentioned, began his operations by producing a design for an amalgamation of the heterogene- ous fragments of his predecessors, with a foresight that a long life and perseverance have just accomplished ; and in a style of architecture at once masculine, appropriate and novel. Mr. Soane, in the structure before us, which, like the viUa of Hadrian at TivoU, comprises many buUdings, introduced into this coimtry the manly and beautiftil order of the circular temple at Tivoli, which he measured and delineated during the completion of his professional studies in Italy with praiseworthy care and accuracy. In this gi-and edifice the ai'chitect has given a beautiftil adaptation of a portion of tliis exquisite architectui-al gem (which Claude has introduced for its endless beauties in many of his works) in the round comer between Princes Street and Lotlibmy ; and has carried on his bold design upon a lofty base, emidating the beauties of his predecessor Vanburgh, whose talents Mr. Soane has often honoured in his lectures. The general- character of the entire building, as now completed, is that of stabihty and strength, hamiony and apt decoration, and above all, ap- propriateness, or fitness of means to its ends. It is an in-egTilai- rhom- boidal figure, measuring about three hundi-ed and sixty-five feet on the south or principal front, four hundred and forty on tlie western side, four hundred and ten on the northern or Lothbury front, and two himdred and TumiteiAup.lS. 1828. V Jon"it C= 3 Actor. Place.i'.in^siuji Road I mdo- TIME TiWSSEXli j:i'TST3£'zr'0-"j:';i:©11', ©"JSIfIAT COJiAM STirJllE'i; ■■" '^O.RJi JOHN RUSSKLL.THIS PLAi'E JS itF.SPECTFUljy DEDICATZD. " I-'-' -lied Aug. 16, 1828. bj Jones fcC? 3. Actaa l^.lace, Jiingdind Xoad load on . METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 131 forty-five on the eastern flank, next Bartholomew Lane. This area com- prises nine open courts — the rotunda, numerous public offices of spacious dimensions and elegant architecture, a court room, committee room, direc- tors' parlour, an armoury, a printing office, and private apartments for the residence of officers and servants of the establishment. The principal apartments are on the ground floor, and there is no upper story over the chief offices, which are all lighted from above. In the basement story are numerous, rooms, and fire-proof vaults for the conservation of bullion, coin, notes, bills and other securities. The Temple Church as restored. This ancient and very beautiful church was founded by the Knights Templars in 1185, when the western or circular part was bmlt, and dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. It was re-dedicated in 1240, when the other part is generally supposed to have been erected by the Knights Hospi- tallers. The western or circular part is pecuharly interesting, from its age, and from beiag one of the earhest specimens of the pointed style of architec- ture in this countiy. It has a circular external waU, with twelve operdngs, which serve as doors and windows, with dwarf buttresses between them. See plate of the Temple Church as restored. The interior is formed by a series of six clustered pillars, with Norman capitals' and bases, which support the same number of pointed arches, over which is a triforium and clerestery vidth semicircular intersected arches, that form by their intersections the probable origin of the lancet- shaped or pointed arch. The monuments of this church are all interesting and valuable for their antiquity and the celebrity of the personages whose fame they celebrate. The most remarkable of them are the recumbent statues of knights templars on the pavement of the circular church, in two groups of five each, lying north and south of the passage way to the choir. The choir, or present church, which is now used in common by the Societies of the Inner and Middle Temple,* consists of a nave and two aisles of nearly equal height, but differing in width, the nave being the widest of the three divisions. It has four pairs of clustered pUlars, which sup- port, with the addition of the eastern and western walls, six pointed arches, which are supported laterally on the north and south sides by strong dwarf stone buttresses. Between the buttresses are a series of lancet-shaped pyramidal windows, with isolated columns, which add great lightness to the building. The walls of this church are of stone, strengthened by massive dwarf stone buttresses, and a triple roof, one over each aisle, and another over 132 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. the nave, covered with lead of great thickness. The whole edifice was repaired in 1682, in 1811, and again in 1827 and 1828, under the direc- tion of Mr. Smirke, who has restored it in a masterly style. The Russell Institution, in Great Coram Street, Russell Square, was originally erected hy and fi-om the designs of James Burton, Esq. whose elegant villa, the Hohne in the Regent's Park, occupied our attention in the early part of this work. The original intention of this substantial-looking building wa.s for an assembly, concert and card rooms. It was buUt about the year 1800, and in 1808 was purchased by a company of proprietors, and appropriated to its present purpose, — literature. It contains an extensive library, of which the present librarian, Mr. Brayley, has recently published a sys- tematized catalogue, consisting of a very select collection of the most useful works m ancient and modem literature. The reading rooms and library are also provided with aU the leading periodical publications, and the current pamphlets of the day. The library is a spacious room, the whole length of the fi-ont, and there are also con- venient newspaper rooms, a theatre for lectures and private rooms for the librarian. The front next Coram Street is distinguished by a tetrastyle portico of the Doric order, with triglyphs ; the cornice and frieze of which runs through the wings and flanks, divested of the triglyphs. See plate of the Russell Institution, Cheat Coram Street. There are also two low sub- porticoes which descend to a suite of baths ; but, as they are recent addi- tions, they must not be considered in estimating the value of this imposing and chaste elevation. The New Custom House. The first building ever erected for the pm-pose of transacting the busi- ness of the Customs was in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and near to the site of the present extensive edifice. In the great fire of 1666 it was destroyed, with aU the surrounding neighbourhood and the greater part of the city, and was rebuilt on a more extensive scale than before tliis cala- mity in the reign of Charles the Second, by Sir Christopher Wren. That building also met the same fate in 1718, and was rebmlt upon much the same plan. It was again consumed by fire in February, 1814, and was rebuilt upon a stUl larger and more extensive scale, from the designs and , under the superintendence of David Laing, Esq. the architect to tlie Board of Customs. ijTx-::iV,' T!ioJH.Shsj{Deri TMM S^m'W (CUSTOM ISTtDTToIE ^ !FIRDSe SiriL!LS:S=5r©-IS!&A^!E ?-i>iLilLei Aug, 30, 1S28, "'jt Jaiies Ik C.S ^xtcai Place Eni^^siana ?.oa_d ." "c.o:- lliiTATi "by Tjio E.:.Wi:."h-i-i EngpRvcd byW.'Vcaatile'sa^ T^i'^:, WWW IPCQgT OIFIFECE, 5T MAlRTl£X§rS It-lS- ©mAH®. TO SIR PKj^^':'.']S >'KF.E,L1:;G KAK^ .itCKETAKV TH^S yi^TE 3S RXSFECTrtTI.n' IIISCRIBEII Pu'hlii:;u''(l -'.,1^; 30, ";a2ft, "try .ionen 1- C^^ctcn Flace.Kiiigslaiid ^loaa-Jondou, n w a IS S ■^ ^ ^ ^■^ _^ t3 ;q i^ ■* ^ >^ f, S . ^ ^i S < n T=-. ^ -, a r fx--or, I'iace P.-^zigsjar-d Koai Londo- Drs,-/r. b-/ rno.i!,;-tcphcrj , '^ ij^ J^ f^-^ isted'jTuie_ 2^ 1528. far Jones fe C^-B./ ccon place K>T-.tfi-iar: Road lonaon METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 139 equal projection as the others, whilst the others have only horizontal cor- nices, it would puzzle a critic to teU. The centre part of this principal division is decorated by what is meant for a tetrastyle portico of the Ionic order ; but owing to the extraordinary and unprecedented width of the centre intercoluniniation, it looks more like two sets of coupled columns, after the method of Perrault, than a well arranged columniation of a Grecian order. In consequence of this mal- arrangement of the columns, the epistylium over the centre opening looks weak and frangible. See print of FwnwaFs Inn, Holhorn. The New Government Mews, Princes Street, Storey's Gate, Westminster. The front of this chaste and classical building from Mr. D. Burton's design, is composed of three parts, a centre and two vnngs, inclosing the body or leading feature of the composition, which is pure Doric. The centre has a carriage way, and two posterns, the former being covered by a semicircular rusticated arch, and the latter by lintels reaching from antas to antee. It has two colmnns between the antse after ;the manner of the ancient order of temples called in antis, and the angles guarded by a pair of coupled antae, making the composition in a manner octastyle. See print of New Government Mews. The entablatm-e is continued through the whole composition ; the antse are continued at regular intervals of two triglyphs and three metopes distance, in the main body of the front ; and the wings are distinguished by inverted porticoes of two columns in antis, and covered by triangular pediments. This length of entablature, unbroken except in the centi-e and the two wings, is surmounted by a plain and lofty blocking-course, eminentiy in character with the order of the building. The centre is marked by an attic, which is not an unmeaning screen, but a solid building, the fiill depth of the gateway below. From the place in which we are now standing, this elegant and classical composition has a charming eflfect, which is much increased by the vener- able turrets of Westminster Abbey, that tower above its centre in pic- turesque grandemr. The New Church, Stepney, is from a design of the late John Walters, Esq., and erected by private subscription in 1819. It is one of the best designs in the later pointed style of English architecture that has been recentiy erected. The western front (see plate of the New Church, Stepney) is composed of a lofty centre, forming the nave, and two wings which form the aisles. 140 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The centi'e part has a low entrance door, with a flat pointed arch in a square moulded frame, below a wide and lofty transom window, covered by a gable. At the angles are octangular buttresses surmounted by pin- nacles. The aisles have also low doors with obtuse pointed arches, and angular buttresses smmounted by pinnacles, which are repeated between every window in the north and south sides. The parapets in the west front are perfoiated, and in the others plain, and the spaces above the doors which lead to the aisles are handsome canopied niches, with pedestals for figures. The whole composition has a very striking English and ecclesiastical character. The New Hall, Christ's Hospital. The exterior of this building is raised upon an arcade of flat pointed arches, which form a cloister for the boys to play under in wet weather, and is terminated at each end by two large and lofty octagonal turrets finished on the top with panels and embrasures. The hall, which is erected above the cloisters and separated by an ornamented string course,- consists externally of nine lofty and spacious windows of the pointed stj'le, divided into three heights, and four widths by moulded stone mul- lions. The windows are divided by buttresses that support the principal trusses of the roof, and are finished by lofty octagonal piimacles and foli- ated finials. The centre of each window is again marked by intermediate pinnacles supported by sculptured corbels, and the parapet is formed be- tween them of moulded embrasures. This beautiful elevation is constructed with fine Heytor granite, of a close compact nature, and of a beautifiil gray colour, which harmonizes well with the architecture. The interior is two hundred feet in length by fifteen in width. A spa- cious gallery runs along the side opposite to the windows and the two ends, from which the public at certain times of the year are admitted to hear the children sing anthems and other pieces of sacred music, and sup in public. At one end is a fine organ, and a pulpit is afiixed under the centre window for the purposes of divine sendee. The decorations are bold and massive, the brackets of the ceiling, the beams, and the galleries of oak, and walls finished a plain light stone coloiu-. Crockford's Club House, St. James's Street. This building, of gi-eat extent and expensive execution, is fi"om tlie de- signs of Messrs. Benjamin and Philip Wyatt, and does gieat credit to their well known name. It consists of a lofty ground stoiy, lighted by- TO THE Rirv? G F ITICOLAY. SEI^ BROTHER OF THT HOSPITAL; tc, THIS F T. A TE IS REPECTFUTTT INSCRIBED Published Dec.8.1Q2""Dr.~or^3 i- C 3j^.jrrcG ?la-ce E-z-.psland iload-T andcn lEESEBEXfeil tS>F ©EH?- SKJE, .MEIEBIsmT Ti!^STLi®]E. !S.SJS.'?'_ IRE©EKT'§ IPAIEK:, , UASTER OF THE ROYAI, HOSPITAL OF ST KATHZRIUElac TO WHOM THIS PiAT£ IS ^/TOST RESPECTFULrY BEIIICATFII ■a.Xlec.8. 1827.bTjoiies S-' Cf 3.ActaiiHaie.!t-.05".ioi3.oad-^c-dor: Drivm. "by Tho . H. SlicpTicrd JinSrave3 hv "V'/r* Toiatlcson . HOUSE, ST JAMES'S STIEEET. Publifihcd. Oct.23. 1826, try Jones g^C? Temple of theiluses.iins'bury-SqTiflre. Londoo. Dr aiva T^ Tho .'H. Shfipi er 1 SW!S1¥M©T®H' AISCABE, FIC£AIE)3;iLlL"y. 1626.1)7 Jones ^ ^° Temple of the "Muses. RnsborvSquaTc 1 ondcn XfTayrii.'by'l^ Jfi.crli.?-:L ■Puilishei Z.rajch 31 1827.. by joaes i- C* 3..-^on PJa.ce.Kmgsland Eoaa., lanaon. TDtaTro-liyTjo H '^bephet'' &gr5v,-,,-Kot«T_-.f, t'S AILMS MOWSES. MII.3E EH®. Pnblistied Jan^l?, 1628 bv Jones 8.- C i Acton Fiace. K-'^'sla.T'd AoaiLlondon METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 141 fire spacious Venetian windows, and a magnificent upper or principal story, with an equal number of French casement windows decorated with proper entablatures. The two outermost of these upper windows, being without the pale and protection of the central projecting part, have the additional embellishment of pediments. See plate of Crockford's Club House, St. James's Street. The entrance is by way of the lower central window, up a flight of stone steps to the elevated ground floor, under which is a lofty, airy, and exten- sive basement story, containing the kitchen and other offices and domestic apartments. This story is lighted by a wide area, which is separated fi-om the street by an elegant stone balustrade. On the pedestals of this balustrade are raised a series of bronzed tripods, that support as many elegant octagonal lanterns. The firont is composed of a centre, formed by a slightly projecting tetrastyle portico of Corinthian pilasters or antse, which support an en- tablature, and two slightly receding wings, in which the epistylium is pro- perly omitted, being supplied by the wall itself. On the upper part of the cornice is a raised blocking course, \^ith a lofty balustrade, and piers over each pilaster, as well as beneatli fhem. In the order of which this elevation is composed, the brother architects have followed the heresy of Mr. Nash, by giving an Ionic entablatirre, strictly so in every respect, to Corinthian pilasters ; or, vice versa, have given Corinthian pilasters to an Ionic entablature, instead of the rigid orthodoxy of their father, whose beautiful fagade (Brookes' Club House) just below this, stands in awful rivalry of their defection from the true faith. Yet it is a pleasing, and from its magnitude a grand composition ; and the interior, which is finished in all the rich and gaudy style of Louis XIV., is a fine specimen of that overloaded but magnificent style of do- mestic architecture. Burlington Arcade, Piccadilly, a design of Samuel Ware, Esq., the author of a very scientific volume of tracts on vaidts and bridges, and architect to many excellent build- ings in Ireland, the splendid alterations at Chatsworth, at Northumberland House, and other places for the Dukes of Devonshire and Northum- berland. Whittington's Alms Houses, Highgate, is a buOding of English domestic architecture, by Mr. George Smith, the architect of St. Paul's School, the New Com Exchange, and other works noticed in these pages. It is a handsome and collegiate looldng building 2q 142 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. (see plate of Wliitljington^s Alms Houses, Highgate), as indeed it should be ; for it is in lieu of that benevolent and munificent citizen's ancient col- lege on College Hill, near Queen Street, Cheapside, which was by license from King Henry IV., in the year 1410, made a college of the Holy Spirit and Saint Mary, by Sir Richard Whittington, four times Lord Mayor of London, for a master, four fellows, clerks, choristers &c. Contiguous to which was erected an alms house, denominated God's House, or hospital, for the accommodation of thirteen persons, one of whom is the chief, with the appellation of tutor. It is still under the management qf the worship- ful Company of Mercers, Every city apprentice must remember the legend of tlie poor truant Dick Whittington, sitting disconsolate on a stone at the rise of Higigate HiU, and fancying the city bells ring — " Turn again Whittington, Thrice Lord Mayor of London,'" and may have his early associations roused, at seeing Whittington's College, for so I must call it, a magnifi.cent structm'e in the immediate neighboiu-- hood of Whittiugton's stone. It has a central chapel, of the pointed style of architecture, the gable of which is sm-mounted by a lofty pinnacle. It has also two square and two angular buttresses, with pinnacles and finials in accordance. The two wings have also gables, buttresses, pinnacles, and finials in a corresponding style of architecture. The doors and windows are square-headed, and covered with moulded water tables ; and the whole composition is at once useful and highly ornamental, The Brewer's Alms Houses, Mile End, is a smaller, but very pictm-esque structure, in a very neat and effective style of domestic architecture. The front elevation is composed of a re- ceding centre, between which and the wings are two slightly projecting transepts, if they may be so called, which are embellished at the comers with angular buttresses sm-mounted by pinnacles. The chimney shafts are capped in the old English style, with separate fimnels connected at the top. The whole building is agreeably relieved by appropriate and at the same time useful breaks, which produce a gratifying diversity of light and shade over the entire elevation, London Horse and Carriage Repository, Gray's Inn Lane. This may justly rank among the " Meti'opolitan Improvements." It is situated at the Junction of Gray's Inn Road with tlie New Road, and Ura-wiLTy TLc.H.Sliep'herd. EnaraTred Tdt W^Deeble NORTH WEST VIEW OF THE PnMiahed Oct.l 1828. "by Jones ani C? Temple of the Muses. Fmsburr Square. London BrasvnljyTlioI&Sbephecd. Engtav^ed hj vy"_Deec_e sourn EAST view of the 1628, "bT" Jones and C? Temple of the Muses. FinsborvSqiiarcLandoD. praivciV/ Jo"-n jLo-;2i ISTABERBA^MIER-'^ AE^MS JSIOTU^E^, IHO^TOH. I'ubJis'hed JaTi?12, lfl2S. by Jones 8e C? 3 AcionPlace. Kinp'slajid. Jload London. 1 Drawn by Tlio? H Shepherd TmJEATKE m®"SrA31„ COVEBTT (B-AIRmiESf. :n^aved_tiv Ji-^f. .Xolph . Published JanJ; 17, 1826, by Jonea k C? 3. Acton ?lace, TandalRnd Road.london METROPOLITAN BIPROVEMENTS. 143 City Road, presenting a noble structuie of a quadrangular form, with a spacious arena in the centre. The internal arrangements are on a grand scale, aflFording accommodation for about two hundred horses, and galleries for more than double that number of carriages. The lofty, light, airy stalls, and loose boxes, show that greater regard has been had to the health of that invaluable animal (as the horse may with great trutb be styled), than wiU be found in any other public establishment in the British empire. Besides the extensive horse and carriage departments, the south front comprises a spacious mansion, the principal story m which is wholly occupied by one entire grand room, ia which, by the gratidtous permission of the spirited proprietor of this unique establishment, (WiUiam Bromley, Esq., of Euston Square,) some benevolent ladies lately held a bazaar, for the benefit of the Spanish Refugees, when this splendid room was proved to be capable of containing upwards of one thousand persons ! The large field (about ten acres), adjoining hereto, is about to be con- verted iato a handsome square and gardens, a la Tivoli, with a superb theatre, to be called the Panarmonion, under the immediate patronage of His Majesty ! The whole projected by Professor Lanza, and is -witiiout parallel in this country. Lord Lowther's excellent Act — which comes into operation in January — ^by removing the turnpike gate nuisances from those delightful drives, the Edgeware Road, New Road, &c., will, together with the aforenamed novelties, combine to render this part of the metropoHs a principal object of attraction with the fashionable world. The Haberdashers' Alms Houses, Hoxton. The original building, which has been recently pulled down to make room for the present neat structure, was a truly palladian design of that great philosopher and co-student of Sk Christopher Wren, the inventive Robert Hooke. It was erected in 1692 by the worshipfiil Company of Haberdashers, pursuant to the wiU of Robert Aske, Esq., a member of that company, who left an almost unexampled legacy of thirty thousand pounds for a'ecting a proper edifice for the accommodation of twenty decayed members of liis company. The former building was very spacious, being foiur hundred feet in length, with an ambulatory in fi-ont tlnree hundred and forty feet long under a colonnade of the Tuscan order. The present building is much smaller in dimensions, and consists of a central Doric tetrastyle portico, with its fiieze emasculated of its manly triglyphs, and a substitution of hybrid ^vreaths. The wings are decorated with brick piers instead of classical stone antae. The apartments of the men are on each side of a 144 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. spacious quadrangle (see plate of the Haherdasliers^ Alms Houses, HoxtonJ, in the centre of which is a statue of its benevolent founder on a lofty pedestal, which bears inscriptions of his bounty. CovENT Garden Theatre. One of the best views of the front of this theatre is from the opposite side of Bow Street, somewhat to the south of the south-east angle. See plate of the Theatre Royal, Covent Garden. This front, which is the principal, and in fact the only architectural front, if I may be allowed to use the expression, is two hundred and twenty feet in length, and divided into three principal parts, which project from the main body of the building and form its most attractive features. These are the portico and the wings; The former is tetrastyle of the Athenian Doric order, after that of the temple of Minerva Parthenon at Athens, and the latter are formed of antae after the same example. The columns' both in front and flank are equidistant, and have one triglyph and two metopes to each intercolumniation, and the antaa of the wings have the interval of two triglyphs and three metopes between them. The entire entablature is carried over the portico and the wings ; but the architrave, frieze, metopes, and mutules are omitted in the intervening portions of the front, to laakB room for the sculpture. The portico is crowned by a pediment surmounted by acroteria. The cornice of the ■wings and main building are surmounted by a blocldng-course and parapet, crowned by a surbase moulding, like that which the same archi- tect has used in the United Service Club House. Behind this, the lofty walls of the body of the theatre rear themselves in stem simplicity, and form an admirable architectural back ground to the ornamental fagade below. The lower part of the building on each side of the portico, and between the wings, is perforated by three arcades of segmental arches, which have been complained of, as not according in style with the Athenian pmity of the other portion of the edifice. Above these, and over the plain square-headed doorways under the portico, are a row of nine sash win- dows, raised over a string-course that pervades the whole front, on lofty sUls, decorated with arcliitraves to the jambs and complete entablatures upon their upper surfaces. Above these windows, on each side of the portico, are two long panels, extending their entire width, in which ai"e sculptiu^es in flat relief, and in niches between the antae of the wings, of statues in the round, repre- senting Tragedy and Comedy, from the chisel of Flaxman. The bassi-rilievi in the panels are sculptured in freestone, from designs by Flaxman, one by Flaxman himself, and the other by Rossi, who also ISLIKG TON I'ublishcd Julv?8. 1827. b/ Jo"cs fcC" 3 Actor. rieccKinpcland toadl-ondon. TO THE PATRONS & FRtENDS OF THL IN S TITU TIOK. THIS PLATE IS RZSP£ C TrUTLY [NSCIUBED. IrawTi b Tho' ^ IIii'&^KBVM.ir COUlilLUSfE-E, SOUTH WISST FlR,OHT. TC THOMAS WILSON, ESQ: THIS PLATE IC KES PECT FU LLY IN hnblisbcd Julv 28. 18.''7 b\'Joni?i. i:C?-V*^CDr. Place Kinosland Hoad.I.- - ~0 £AiLL GB.QSVENOR, THIS PLATE IS MOST K,Z SPE CTFITIXY r^SCK-IbE-Jj- Puilishtid leb' 9. 1823 by J'ones iz C 3.y -ci'.c Place. L'm.vsland Koad L)T R-Acon A^'sriilffii'i Ffflffi. TIHE HOTJWIEKTT BMKB. WlESTMlTKrSTlEm. WMM. .•■S 1829 TjT Joues &: C?Tempi/» of theMnses. rtns'tturTSrsBr- -•■'- metropolitan improvements. 149 St. Bride's Avenue (see plate) opens to public view Sir Christopher Wren's majestic steeple of St. Bride, Fleet Street. This church is a fabric of great strength and beauty, and forms one of the most striking features of the metropolis. Its interior is at once spacious, commodious, and elegant, is one himdred and eleven feet in length, fifly-seven feet in breadth, and forty-one in height ; com- posed of a lofty nave, covered with an arched ceiling and two aisles, separated below by solid piers, which form pedestals and support coupled columns of the Doric order above, from the capitals of which spring the arches of the nave aisles. To a fire, which happened on the 14th of November, 1824, we are in- debted for the present Avenue, designed by J. B. Papworth, Esq., thus opening to view a structure that is acknowledged to be the chef d" A-OS_=J. r',' TITE 1_d:T!C'- WAS COMPLETED. THIS TJL^TE IS KTSTTIICTT Published Au.g.2. 1525 bv Jones &: C5 ^ Acton. Place TTingslane Road- London. ._i.'j-^-ci b\' Roa^Acoc. 'M^ IIM « 01- I.ONDOK, ;'M'3 .Lii'-F IS RESPfCTFuUY DEDJCAT'. 3 n» Jones & C^ 3 \cla-i Place i^.^.gslcaij Koa^^OLidon THE FAIBILIIAMIEM'T HOWgE, F]E®Mr ■WESTMINSTER ©ILi® FAHiACE ITAIEB. FUOM POETS CORNKK J'abliohed b'eb, 21, Ib^y.'byJoiiee & C'Templp of tlic Muses, Fmsljury Square. London metropolitan improvements. 153 The King's Entrance to the House of Lords. Eai'ly in 1822 Mr. Soane, the architect, was directed to prepare a design for the improvement of His Ma-jesty's Entrance into the House of Lords, which being approved by His Majesty, the works were begun and earned on with such zeal and attention, that on the 30th of January, 1823, the carriage entrance and the royal staircase were finished as far as the door leading into the Prince's Chamber. During the progress of this work, Mr. Soane made other designs to complete the entrance from this staircase into the House of Lords, which having also been approved by His Majesty, the foundations of the building were laid on the 30th of October, 1823 ; and, by continuing the worts night and day, the whole was completely finished on the 1st of February, 1824. At the ceremony of the Sovereign's opening the Pai-liament of the United Kingdoms, His Ma-jesty enters by this way. On arriving at the new carriage enti'ance (see plates of the King's Entrance to the House of Lords, from Poefs Corner, and tlie Parliament House, from Old Palace Yard, Westminstei-J , the procession is formed. His Majesty alights, passes along tlie conidor which leads to the grand staircase, through the Ante Room, the Royal Gallery, and the Painted Chamber, into the Robing Room, and thence into the House of Lords, where His Majesty then takes his place upon the throne. For the better and more suitable accommodation of the King on these grand occasions, the floor of the noble apartment called the Painted Chamber, wherein the conferences between the two Houses of Pai'liament are held, has been raised to a per- fect level, and the doorway from the Royal Gallery into the Painted Chamber suitably enlarged and decorated. The exterior of these additions to the House of Lords are plain and simple specimens of the pointed style of architectm-e, embattled on the top, and composed in a corresponding style with the less recent portions of the building. Belgrave Chapel and the West Side of Belgrave Square. Belgi-ave Chapel is a chaste and elegant design of the Ionic order by Mr. Smirke, after the example of the temple on the banks of the Ilyssus at Athens. The cell or body of the chapel is parallelogramatic in plan, and Grecian in decoration, with antse at tlie angles, the entablature car- ried over tliem, and a well proportioned stylobate by way of blocking course to the cornice and of parapet to the roof, crowning the elevation. 2 T 154 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The principal front has a tetrastyle portico, flanked and supported be- hind with antae, proper to the order, and raised on a handsome flight of steps above the street. See plate of Belgrave Chapel, and West Side of Belgrave Square. The columns are covered by a lofty epistylium, a plajn frieze, and a cornice in flank, resolving itself into a beautiftiUy propo& tioned pediment in front, which, by its becoming projection, adds a singu- larly effective play of light and shade over the whole composition. Behind the central intercolumniation is a single doorway of large di.- mensions, embellished with architraves to the jambs, and an entablature proper to the lintel : — and windows, with diminishing jambs, like the little gem of a circular temple at Tivoli, ornament the wall between the antae. Beyond this is tlie west side of Belgrave Square, named after one of the titles of the Earl of Grosvenor, the ground landlord of this noble es- tate, wliich is of the great extent of nearly one hundred acres, lying be- ween Knightsbridge and Pimlico from north to south, and -between Chelsea and Buckingham gate fi'om east to west This extensive area is now covering with mansions and handsome houses, laid out with beautiftJ plantations, into two spacious squares, a crescent, and several detached viUas. This great undertaking, equal in extent and value to many cities, and destined (say the projectors) to be the future residences of the highest class of the fashionable world, is con- structing over a district formerly known as the Five Fields, and as flie re- sort, on Sunday mornings and Saint Mondays, of pugilists and black- guards. North-east side of Belgrave Square, is composed of five principal parts ; a lofty centre, with a row of dwelling houses on each side of it, foiming the main body of the composition, and two extreme wings which termiaate the fagade. The centre is marked by a sub-portico or porch on the ground story, with an attached hexastyle portico above of three greater columns, which have always a poverty- struck would-be-fine sort of effect, particularly in the centre of a composi- tion. The columns are of the Corinthian order of architecture, sur- mounted by an entablature bereaved of a third part of its fair proportions, and a consequent part of its height, and crowned by an attic, surmounted by vases. The wings are en suite, but have tetrastyle porticoes, and a less aspiiing attic, with a pyramidal form that is always graceful to the composition. The parapets of the wings and centi'c are imperforated, but those of the intervening houses have the common-place vulgarity, tliat Wren so vi- gorously but vainly tried to explode, of a useless balustrade. Drawn, "by Tho . H. Sieplier d. 3^©IRT1E EAST ^EBE OF BEmCIEATIl g^lITAIEE^, FEMILEC® TO iOUD BELGHA-Vi:, THIS T3LATE IS l^OST fij;SPECTFULI."V" INSCRIBZD lEngraTei Vy S. Lacy. Publisbed. !bJov 15, 1528, "by Jones &: C?T"emple of tlie Muses, Finsbnry Square, london. 3)rawii "by Tho.E Siepherd ^" " 'Zr Pra\-ed. "br S l£,cy- 3IE1L(&IEATIE CHAFIEIL, AHB WEST SEBE ®F BIE3L<&Ii,ATE S(0)WAK.E. A^u"UislieA Nov. 15. 1828. "by Jones $c C° Temjie of -the Mises, rmsbury Sciuare, londoD. Trie :: S^cpcerd. ^g.-ivei^ njZ>l l-^-c^g^ P\ib]isliea. Ati^ 9,18^8 by Jones Kj C? 3. Acton Place. Suigsland. Road, Xondonr 3V TTio H.Shephcri. i'ublisacd Aiitf 9.-i82fl, Vy .Inn.^r. ArC-VAclon IMace. Kinp^r.la.nd Hoa.d. London METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 155 The Guildhall, Westminster, is an insulated sjxucture, desired for the use of the municipality of West- minster, standing on the south side of the ancient sanctuary, neai- to the Abbey. In this building are held the sessions for the city, and the trials in the court of the Highi Bailiff, and it afforded accommodation for the various high courts of law and equity, during the repairs of Westminster Hall. It is a quadrangular brick building, with recesses at the angles, that give it somewhat the form that continentjd ai'chitects call a Greek cross; and h^s a tetrastyle portico of the Doric order, with a pediment in the principal front The centre of the building is crowned by an octan- gular tower, with semicu-cular windows in every face, that give light to the principal court below. At each angle is a pier that serves for a but- tress, which, with a connecting moulding that runs round the entire build- ing, crowns and connects the whole. On this cornice is a blocking course, and a light and lofty balustrade, in three panels to each face. The roof meets in a point over the centre of the building, on which is a lantern and vane. It was designed and executed by the late Samuel Pepy Cockerell, Esq. a pupil of Sir Robert Taylor's, and father of the able and travelled architect, Mr. C. R. Cockerell, who designed the beautiM Ionic chapel of St. George in Regent Street, which is noticed at page 100 of this work. New Buildings Pall Mall East, and the University Club House, the former designed by Henry Rhodes, Esq. and the latter the united work of William WUkins, Esq. R.A. and John Peter Dering, Esq. A.R.A. The United University Club which meets at this house, is a society composed of members of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, elected by close ballot, which keeps them eminently select. Being a corner house, it has the advantages of two fronts, one opening to Suffolk-Street, and the other to Pall Mall East, Both fronts are raised upon a rusticated surbasement, which is occupied by the ground story, and. that next Pall Mall East, which may be considered as the principal, although not the entrance front, is distinguished from that next Suffolk Street by a tetrastyle portico of tlie Ionic order. The entiance front, next Suffolk vStreet, has an enclosed portico or porch to the ground story, and a series of antae in correspondence with those which appertain to the columns in the principal front. Between aU the columns and antae are a series of spacious^ and lofty windows that give hght to the grand apailments of 156 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. the principal story. Upon tlie upper surface of the entablature is a para- pet, designed in the proportions of a stylobate or continued pedestal, with piers over the antee. The other building before us, from the designs of Mr. Rhodes, is also elevated upon a rusticated surbasement, which is occupied by the ground story ware-rooms. The windows are divided by rusticated and panelled ' piers, which are surmounted by a plain and efficient cornice, the lofty blocking course of which is Used as a plinth for the Corinthian order of the principal story. In front of each window is a perforated panel, which ingeniously converts the styles on interstices into sub-plinths for the columns above. The front is divided into three parts, a centre of four Corinthian columns in antis, wliich forms a receding portico, and two slightly projecting wings, with coupled antse at each angle. In the inter- columniations of all the columns and antse, are a row of semicircular- headed windows. Upon the entablature of the Corinthian order is taised an attic story, with vases over the columns and dwarf pilasters over the antae. This handsome front is cleverly connected with that in Cockspur Street, to which it forms a veiy obtuse angle, by a circular recessed dyastyle portico in antis, and other ornaments above and beneath, in accordance with dif- ferent parts of the building. See plate of the New Buildings Pall Mall East, and the University Club House. The New Caledonian Asylum is a chaste and classical design of*flie piure Doric order, consisting of a tetrastyle detached portico in the centre of the front, and four windows on each side. The extreme angles are marked by antae in accordance with those behind the columns. The windows have architraves to their jambs, and lintels and trusses under their sUls. Those of the lower story have cornices above the lintels. In the tympanum of the pediment is a shield containing the royal arms of Scotland, which for want of decorative and appropriate sculpture presents a very meagre appearance. See plate of the New Caledonian Asylum. Above the cornice of the pediment are plain acroteria, well adapted to the order of the building to which they are appUed, and on the central one, is elevated a statue of St. Andrew with his cross. This appropriate and usefid building, which was instituted in 1815, for supporting and educating the children of soldiers, sailors, marines, &c. natives of Scotland, or bom of indigent Scottish parents resident in London, is situated in front of a new cross road, leading from HoUoway to Battle Bridge, by which a considerable distance is saved in the ap- proach to the west end of the metropolis fi'om the leading North Road. IfcawnT)/ Tho B. She^lifiri. Zu^ra-vti "by- T.Bar'ber TO TEE FAitCY-&rFTED S IRWAITEH. SCOTT. BART. THIS PLA.TE IS KESPEC TFULLT INSCRIBED, ■0 « Jhihiisheil^cfv. 22, l&ZQ.'hj Joufia Sc C° Temple of the Mose^. Tonsourj Square. Xtmdaa Dczwii ty Iho.S,SlLepliera.. IEiit\ra'.-«2."b-7 T Barter AILISEOSr CMAIPEIi, MOOM-^ATE, Published Nov 22 . 3Q28.ty Janes & CTemjile of the Moses, Pinshijrj Square. loodQii. ?-itxh£ied If^ _24, ie29 "by Jocea it C'' 3 AirriXi fld':e Kinfi^ZLi KoB.d I.LJ=ic:! . TiiE'yy aif the ■ii'E(EiEKrT''S lf^as-K- EAST GATE. A VILLA A3JD ST lATHE'R-INE S HOSPITAL TjO) sn?c Hay 24 1828.bjji^tiec i- CS Acwa flaer ffn^;3i(u:d Road i..,_iuoti K ^*-i-*- CUTW MA&liW, M.E(&EHT'S CAKTAIL., TO SIR CULLING ZMlTfi BAE.T'. THIC PLATE IS TIESPT: C TF U1.I.Y INSCRTBED. P-j-Tslialieii JaxLy::6. 1028. Tyy" Jones Sc C° 3. Acton Place, Enrfslanii aoa.ii,XQndon . TO THE REGE-NTS CANAI, COMPANY TU1I3 PLAT F. IS DEDICATED. Published Ja.n7 26. 1626 by Jones fe C* 3 Acton Flaco, Kindslimd. Road londoa . Jagra.ved'by T jJ3a.vieai THE JLIMEMOFSE ©OCK, IRE'&EHT'S CAMAIL. TO THE i?AKL OF MAC CLESFIELD. THIS PI^TE IS RESPZCTFFLrT INSCRIBED. i*iiblished Ano- L'5. 15-17 "ov Jo-ic; ^ C 3 Acton Place XinorUrd Jload london . »o,.-i l-.-niu H '".li.-ph-rd Engraved bvF J Havd; TKE BOHJBJLE JLOCJK, S: EAST ENTRANCE TO TME ISILINiGTOH TiUNMEL, IK.EGEK'T'S CANAIL. TO COLONKI. DSIHKWATER THIS PLATE IS MOST RESPECTFULLY rNSCIUBZD. PuWished Au(j^ Ji Jfl.lV by Jones fc C." 3 AaiIbii Piace, i'ra^'L-.taiid Road. London. Bcawo "by Ho* H.Shepr.erd. LiLfTtr/ei "by Zy^BonB.. Eiiblishea. 'Me.rth li-lS^fl "by Jones fc C? 3.-Acton Place. Itintfslatid Road Xondon Drawn by Earfr&ved b^H.V/.flonfl., liONmiOn ©K.FMAH AST1L.13JM, dLAPTiffiH. Publistied March 15 182fl. by Jones fc Ct 3. Ac ton Place, Kin gsland Road. London. metropolitan improvements, ]57 The Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, was originally designed, in 1812, by P. F. Robinson, Esq. for W. BuUock, Esq. of Liverpool, as a receptacle for a Museum that went by his name, but was afterwards dispersed by auction. The elevation is completely Egyptian, that is, supposing the ancient Egyptians built their houses in stories. The details are correctly taken from Denons' celebrated work, and principally from the great temple at Tentyra. The two colossal figures that support the entablature of the centre window are novel in idea and apphcation, picturesque in effect, and add variety to the compo- sition ; while the robust columns beneath them seem built exactly for pedestals to the sturdy Ethiopians above them. See plate of the Egyp- tian Hall, Piccadilly. The large projection of the superior cornice, rising from the colossal-sculptured torus that bounds the entire design, is grand and imposing. Islington Tunnel, &c. This Tunnel is a very successful and curious example of the modern method of canal work, and is worthy the inspection of the scientific. See plate of the double lock, and east entrance to the Islington Tunnel, Regents Canal. Viewed from a short distance, such as from the inter- mediate space between the double lock, imder the three-quarter elliptical arch of the Frog Lane Bridge, the western aperture in White Conduit Fields appears reduced to a point of great brilliancy, resembling a star surrounded by a halo of Rembrandtish darkness. It is perfectly straight and level through its whole course, and is upwards of nine hundred yards in length. Its form is an ellipsis, eighteen feet in height, and seventeen in width, having seven feet six inches depth of water, and being capa- cious enough for two canal boats, or one river barge to pass at the same time. The Licensed Victuallers' School, Kennington, is an establishment more to be regarded for the benevolent views of its patrons, than for the architectural beauty of the building. The Society was established, and is supported by the respectable body of Licensed Victuallers of the metropolis, as an asylum and school for the orphans and children of the desfitute part of their brethren. The profits of the journal called " The Morning Advertiser" is also added to its fimds, and every member is of course called on to contribute by taking in that newspaper. The building is a series of dwelling houses, added together at 2 u 158 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMKNTS. various times, as the funds and objects of the institution increased, and has been somewhat improved in architectural appearance, by a central tablet of stucco over the pedimented door as a sort of centre to the com- position. See plate of the Idcensed Victuallers' School, Kennington. The New Post Office, St. Martin's Le Grand, is a handsome structure by Mr. Smirke, begun ia 1818, and for want of sufficient iunds was for some time at a stand. It is divided into three portions; namely, a central hexastyle portico of the Ionic order, the columns fluted, the entablature of good proportions, the fiieze plain, and the cornice has the appropriate ornament of dentals in its bed mould. This central portico (see plate of the New Post Office, St. Martinis Le Gra/ndJ is finished with a pediment of just elevation, the tympanum of which contains the imperial arms of the united kingdoms. This arrange- ment gives a pyramidal appearance to the group which forms the compo- sition. The side porticoes, which are tetrastyle of the same order, are finished with a low attic raised on the blocking course, instead of a pedi- ment, which aids the composition and forms a pleasing contrast to the central or principal subject of the group. The portions of the building between the centre and the wings have two stories of lofty windows, which are well arranged for harmony, and complete the composition, which is chaste, simple, and imposing. The basement story is constructed of granite, and the superstructure of hard bricks, faced with Portland stone ; the principal front, that which we have now been reviewing, is three hundred and eighty feet in length. The Royal Exchange, Cornhill. The principal entrance is on the south side next Cornhill, and consists of a tetrastyle detached portico of the Corinthian order, with a lofty arch between the central columns. The columns are surmounted by a lofty entablature, on the acroteria of which are sculptural aimorial bearings of the United Kingdoms, the City of London, the Mercers' Company and Sir Thomas Gresham. On each side of these is a balustrade siumounted by statues representing the four quarters of tiie globe. These, as well as the bassi-rilievi below them, are by Mr. J. G. Bubb. In niches below the arehitrave are statues of the unfortunate Charles the First, and his son Charles the Second, by Bushnell. The new entablature, balustrade, bassi- rilievi, statues, and the new tower, are by Mr. George Smith, and in a purer taste than the original building. METROPOLITAN IMPROVKMENTS. 159 Vauxhall Bridge. The first stone of this bridge was laid by the late Diike of Branswick on the 21st of August, 1813, and on the 4th of June, 1816, being three years firom the time of Mr. Walker's engagement with the company, the ceremonial of opening the bridge was performed. The width of the river Thames at Vauxhall is about nine hundred feet, the depth at low water firom eight to ten feet, and the rise of the tide about twelve feet. The bridge, as may be seen in the plate, consists of nine arches of seventy-eight feet span, and eight piers, each thirteen feet wide. The length of the bridge, clear of the abutments, is eight hundred and six feet ; the rise of the centre arch above high water mark twenty-seven feet ; the clear width of the bridge is thirty-six feet, divided into a car- riageway of twenty-five feet, and two footways of five feet six inches each. The rise of the roadway upon the bridge is one foot in thirty-five to the middle of the fourth arch fi-om each side ; the line of the roadway over the centre arch, and half an arch on each side of it, being curv^ed to meet the inclined planes formed by the roadway over the other arches, as shown in the view. The Auction Mart, St. Bartholomew Lane, is a very useful commercial building, originally constructed by a joiat stock company, principally composed of auctioneers. The fi-ont next Bartholomew Lane is rendered architectural by an attached portico of two stories, the lower of which is of the Doric order, and the upper of the Ionic surmounted by a pediment. The lower order is tetrastyle in antis, and occupies the height of the principal and mezzanine story. See plate of the Auction Mart, St. Bartholomew Lane. The side next Throg- morton Street is rusticated to the upper part of the mezzanine vnndows, and the cornice of the upper order is continued in both fironts. The upper story is contained within the space of a cm-b-roof, and, being lighted by tliree large lantern lights, forms three spacious auction galleries. The area between the pavement and the building, which gives light to a basement story of offices, is protected by a plinth and balus- trade instead of iron rails, and thus gives a very architectural appearance to this part of the structure. 160 METROPOLITAN IBIPROVEMENTS. The North-west rA9ADE of the New Covent Garden Market IS erected in the centre of Inigo Jones's beautiiiil Piazza, which is now rendered by fire and alterations very incomplete. It is composed of four gi-eat principal parts, each of which hare similar characteristics. The centre consists of an arch raised upon the entablature of two Tuscan columns, with a single-faced archivolt supported by two piers, which carry a lofty triangular pediment, the tympanum of which is embellished by the armorial bearings of the noble owner of the soU, the Duke of Bedford. On each side of this appropriate centre, which is high enough to admit a lofty loaded waggon into the central area, is a colonnade of the Tuscan order, projecting before the shops. The columns are of granite, and of the Palladian or rather Chambersian Tuscan, disfigured by an ornamental balustrade, which has no use but to contain market business, totally out of keeping with the massireness of the order. See plate of the North-west Fagade of the New Covent Garden Market. At each of the extreme angles of the four portions of this new market is a raised quadrangular pavilion, which breaks the monotony of the com- position in a very satisfactory and artist-hke manner. Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner, is now the town mansion of liis Grace the Duke of Wellington, as it was formerly that of his brother the Marquess of WeUesley. This splendid mansion, has been recently enlarged, renovated, and made architectural ; the situation being one of the finest in the metropohs, standing at the very beginning of the town, entering westward, and commanding fine views of the parks, with the Surry and Kent hills in the distance. The principal front consists of a centre and two wings. See plate of Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner. The portico is tetrastjle and of the Corinthian order, raised upon a rusticated arcade of three apertures, which lead to the entrance hall ; the wings have each two windows in width, and the whole of the ground story, wliich forms the basement of the building, is also rusticated. The west front has two wings, and the centre slightly receding has four windows, to which are appended a handsome balcony, and the portico here is surmounted by a pediment of gTaceful proportions. iDrawnby ThoH Shepherd £ntfraved by W ■W'atkns THE 'S.W. FASABE ®F TMIl HIE"^ C©VIEHT ©ASilSjEJT 3IaJ1E1iT\ J)rawn bj Tlio.H S':<^>err AECTIlffiir I!a&]8.T, ST. ]BAm.TH01.0MBWS ILAHIS, Jono's 3: C° 'I'cnolc of lKc Muses . Finsbijry Square London '8"'9 Drav/c by Tho. "H, Sheptera '&A3 W®3Ji2KS, HEAIE, TiEE IK,E©IENT'S CASfAILi. ISUJEILIISEWGS , miI(&MIFI£]EILiID), CAMIBEH S.OA©. PiibUahei Nov 1. 1829 bj ^or.cak C° Temple of the Muaes . l-'insbury SqL.:iri;, J,ondon METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 161 The G-as Works, near the Regent's Canal, are an immense pile of buildings, in the parish of St. Pancras, in the road leading to Kentish Town, and have a degree of architectural beauty arising from their intrinsic magnitude, the simplicity of their component parts, and the imposing grandeur of the two large columnar chimneys that surmormt the roofs. See plate of the Gas Works, near the Regents Canal. The composition of the principal front is pleasing, although deviating from the generally received notions of composition, by having its centre lower than its sides, which is improved by a slightly projecting centre and a pediment. The flanks have each a series of circular-headed windows in each story, which, like the arcades of an ancient aquaeduct, are pleasing from the reduplication of a number of simple parts, which when alone produce scarcely any effect. Buildings, Highfield, Camden Road. Among the various recent improvements of the Metropolis and its En- virons, there are few more likely to be permanently useful than the new line of road now made from the Gloucester Gate, Regent's Park, to Hol- loway, and intended to be continued through Stamford Hill to Essex and Hertfordshire ; thereby shortening the distance between and approximat- ing all the adjacent villages and the western parts of the metropolis, the parks and places of public resort. It is upon the highest point of this road where it crosses the road leading from Battle Bridge to Highgate that these buildings (see plate of Build- ings, Highfield, Camden Road), have been erected, being the first of any importance in that part of the environs of the town, and which from its elevated site and magnitude forms a most distinguishing object The view from the top is without exception unequalled within the same dis- tance from town, being completely panoramic, and taking in the surround- ing country to a vast extent, far into Essex, the hills near Rochester, the Thames, Shooter's Hill, the Surry hills, Richmond, and to Windsor, with aU the intermediate objects. The principal building we have shown is ninety feet long, forty -five wide, and sixty-six high, besides others of neaily equal dimensions, which, we are informed by the proprietors Messrs. Mann and Sargon, are required to contain their stock of cloth, the quality of which depends in a great degree upon its age and long exposure to the air, and to accomplish which the stock on hand is always from 30 to 40,000 yards. 2X 162 METIIOPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. The New Library, &c. in the Temple. The pile of buildings called the Temple is divided between two societies, named the Inner and the Middle Temple, both possessing a haU, a library, a garden, chambers, &c. but using the ancient church described in our former pages in common. The new library now in progress of execution, belongs to the society of the Inner Temple, whose improvements of their ancient structure deserve high praise. See plate of the New Library, Sfc. in the Temple. The design is in the pointed style of ancient English architecture, by Mr. Smirke, and is in complete accordance with the ancient parts of the Temple, which I learn wiU be persevered in till complete. The style of architecture is simple, usefiil, appropriate, and the works are most sub- stantially and scientifically built. Church of St. Barnabas, King Square, between Goswell Street Road and the Regent's Basin in the City Road, an edifice built more for use and duration than particular ornament. The portico is tetrastyle of the Ionic order, without a pediment, having a blocking course and balustrade in its stead. On either side of the portico is a circular-headed window of true tabernacle cut, and sunk panels above them, like attic windows bricked up to avoid the window duty. Above the balustrade that crowns the portico is a square tower with belfiy win- dows, and a dial in the upper part of the one that faces the west ; and upon this is raised an octagonal obeliscal spire of good proportions, which however does not harmonize with the Ionic building beneath it. The New Church, Camden Town. The western front of this church is light, airy, and Grecian in an emiment degree. The portico, which forms the centre of the composition, is semi- circular in plan, the entablature of which, projecting over the centre door, is suppoi-ted by four columns of the Ionic order, and connected to the building by antae. The cornice is surmounted by a series of sepulchral stele, which, being inti'oduced instead of the bold blocking coiase or plain scamilli, detract from the simplicity of the design. The side buildings or aisles have doors in correspondence Avith those of the nave, and the win- 'dows in the flanks are raised on a species of stylobate, which contiibute 2>r«>ra'bjr TIUt^S.Sti^erd. ro KTS C-^J^.CE THE SUIO; DP I.'OPFGL?: fc^.ic.THIS PL^^i: IS EE SPE. CTPUXLY XiHIilCAmJ Pli'bljsV-ed Dec 15.1327. tv Jcne: ic C S.Actcm Ka.ce Zrco'slEr-d ^3.i londan lyee^fc'byTiio'V. Sacnicri d v.- rho* Barter. FITHSBliyRT CI5IAF]E]Li. TO "V. ■•' SPOOKS ESO ARCHITECT. THIS PLATE IS ^RT SPF CTFlJLT Y INSCRISEX) METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMJilNTS. 163 by their plain simplicity to the general good effect of the whole. The tower, or steeple, in accordance with the circular portico, is also circular in plan ; which form pervades every story, as the octangular does that of St. Pancras. FiNSBURY Chapel, is from a design of WUliam Brooks, Esq. the architect of the London Institution. The principal feature in its front is an elevated hexastyle portico of three-quarter columns of the Ionic order, standing on a rusti- cated basement, and crowned by a lofty entablature and a well-propor- tioned pediment. Two wings, which occupy the whole of the rusticated basement, and about two-thirds of the Ionic columns in height, form the entrances ; and, as they project beyond the main line of the buUding, they break the formality, and give a pleasing relief of light and shade. The entablature of the order is carried over the main vdngs, with the omission of the cymatium or sima. The intercolumniations of the Ionic order have apertures, formed by dwarf antae on a string course supporting an archi- trave cornice, which serve as the -windows. The lower story is lighted by dwarf vnndows, vdth dressings, which occupy four courses of the rusti- cated masonry. The entrance doors in the wings are ornamented on the jambs and Untel, with an architrave in accordance with the order of the building. They are covered by a cornice, surmounted by a blocking course and an attic order of two pair of coupled antae ; hetweeil which are inscriptions of texts from Scripture. The composition is pleasing and full of variety. It was erected by a congregation of Protestant Dissenters for the Rev. Alexander Fletcher, formerly of Albion Chapel at Moorgate. Chapel op Ease, West Hackney, which, without the bell tower, and aisles, would be a respectable version, or rather abridgment, of the portico of Covent Garden Theatre, and almost as characteristic. As a portico, it is a good copy from that of a Grecian temple, but its effect is destroyed by the wings and conventicle- headed windows, and the incubus of a bell tower that is riding upon its back. The New Church, Haggeestone, a design of the style termed Gothic, and by Mr. Nash. The west front is divided into five principal parts, which have variety and picturesque beauty. The central portion of the design is the lofty tower, which rises from the ground. Each angle of the tower is protected by an octagonal 164 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. buttress, between two of which is the entrance door leading to the nave. Above this door ai-e two plain stories separated by moulded bands or string courses, and a small pointed window to each. The parapet is terminated by a battlement on every face, and at each angle the buttresses run up to a lofty elevation, and ai-e terminated by crocketed pinnacles and finials. Between these pinnacles, and behind the battlements, is a lofty quadran'- gular lantern, supported by flying buttresses. The doors leading to the aisles are covered by pointed arches and square water tables. Above • each door is a narrow loop-hole window, surmounted by a gable, with a pinnacle on its apex, and at each side of these entrances is a spacious flanking octangular tower, two stories in height, which contains the gal- lery stairs. St. John's, Hoxton. The front is composed of three parts, a centre, which defines the width of the nave, and two wings, which belong to the aisles and galleries. The centre has a portico of three-quarter fluted columns of the Ionic order, between two ants, which axe repeated, shghtly receding, at the angles of the aisles. An entablature and blocking course crowns the order and connects the entire building. Above the entablature is a square panelled tower with a Grecian-shaped window, filled in with louvres. The tower then sets ofi' to a circle in plan with projecting piers on four of its faces, and a lofty cylindrical tower is erected on this base. It is divided into eight parts, by slightly projecting Grecian antse, which have windows with semicircular heads between them. New Church op St. Luke, Chelsea. The western or principal fi:ont of this church, by Mr. Savage, is a lofty commanding elevation of three parts ; namely, a central tower of great originality and beauty, and two equally good side porticoes in firont of the aisles. The portico, for it is too decided in its character to be called a porch, consists of five principal parts, a grand central arch under the middle of the tower, and two side arches of smaller dimensions on either side. These arches are separated from each other by piers and buttresses, and are sur- mounted by a perforated parapet of tracery work and pinnacles with crockets and finials. Behind this arcade, or portico, which is terminated at either end by an arch in correspondence with those in front, and a perforated parapet fol- lowing the rake of the roof, is seen the western windows and raking pa- a, ra lis o ^ h ©■ s ^ -Drawn. "bj- Tlo.E.Sheplieri. J-n.?-: a--e ]PiibTisihed. Jiuie -28 , IS^d.-pT Jones ^c CS Acion Place. En tfslaiid. lloai.Lauaon. JDiBwn byTho, D hnpVavcd by V.' WaLkic I'ubliL.hod Junc;^6, i"'''-'- I., Jones ,^.- C^ 3. ,\rtaTi"Pldcii Kingslaucl Road l.^mrfon METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS, 165 rapet of the two aisles, and the flying buttresses which spring from the lower wall-buttresses of the aisles to the upper buttresses of the lofty nave. These upper buttresses rise beautifully above the panelled ti-acery of the upper parapet, and are richly decorated as they rise with delicate foliated crockets and finiaJs; illustrating the practice of our ancient English architects of adding tichness as they rise. The Chapel of Ease to Maey-le-bone, Stafford Street, New Road, is a composition of the Ionic order of ai'chitectuie, consisting of a tetrastyle portico in front, which faces or represents the nave, and an Italian window on each side of this Athenian colonnade to bear witness to the aisles, and on the flanks are repetitions of the columns. The parapet is balustraded, and above and behind the pediment rises a plain square tower. Above this square tower, whose monotony is broken only by the clock, is a square portico of four columns on each face, somewhat resembling one of the tiers of that strange building called the Septizonium of Severus, and the steeple is finished by a campanile and cupola wliich support a ball and cross. It is substantial, but inelegant and inappro- priate. St. Mary-le-bone Chapel, St. John's Wood Road, is a substantial unpretending chapel of the Ionic order, designed by the late Thomas Hardwick, Esq. It is divided into two stories, with square windows to give light to the pews under the galleries, and with lofty semicircular-headed windows to light the galleries and body of the edifice. The portico is tetrastyle, and has a dial or clock-face in the tympanum of the pediment. Above this is a cubical tower, with steps, which forms a pedestal to a handsome lantern of the Roman Doric order. Apertures be- tween the columns give light to the belfiy, which is covered by a hemis- pherical cupola, ball, and vane. The Chtjrch of St. Mark the Evangelist, Pentonville, a design by W. C Milne, Esq. is a small but pleasing composition of three parts, in the western or fi-ont principal elevation ; namely, a tower of four stories, which contaias the entrance to the church generally, and two lancet-headed windows, which light the aisles. The door is deeply recessed, within a series of pointed arches, supported by circular piUars, between two square projecting panelled buttresses. The upper surface of the outer arch is decorated with crocketing, which 2 Y 166 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. tewninates in a finial beneath the great western window, and the spaii- drells are filled up with panelling. The parapet is ornamented externally by triangular panels, and the angles of the towers are strengthened by square projecting buttresses, carried up above the parapet and finished with crocketed pinnacles and finials. The flanks have angular buttresses, finished in a similar manner at each comer, and dwarf buttresses, which finish below the parapet, between each window. St. Mary's Church, Wyndham Place, and District Rectory to St. Mary-le-bone, is, Hke the before-mentioned church at Camden Town, composed of a semicircular portico, and a circular tower. It is a substantial structure of brick and stone of the Ionic order, and firom the designs of Mr. Smirke. The noveltjr of the porforated parapet, as a substitute for the orthodox balustrade, is no improvement, and the steeple is deficient in lightness for want of that pyramidal gradation which distinguishes the steeples of Wren above those of every other architect. The interior is in the same plain unornamented style as the exterior, except that over the altar is a large window of stained glass, representing the resiurection of Christ. The New Church of St. Pancras is an edifice of a very commanding character, and designed by Messrs. W. and H. W. Inwood, after the purest Athenian examples. The portico to the west front is hexastyle, of a very elaborate and highly enriched specimen of the Ionic order, copied firom the celebrated temple of Minen'a Polias at Athens. On the columns is raised a lofty entablature, which is covered with a tympanum, and its cymatium sculptured with the foliage of the Grecian honeysuckle. The tower is octagonal, with eight isolated columns on a stylobate and an entablature of the order of the temple of the winds at Athens. On the cell of this story is raised another octan- gular stylobate, which also supports a similar octangular temple of smaller dimensions ; the siunmit of which is crowned by an octagonal attic, witli sculptural figures on each face. The eastern end is in imitation of the half of a circular temple of the Ionic order, with attached or three-quarter columns. The side elevations are decorated with continuations of the entablature, and of the heads or capitals of the ants. On each side aie two sub-porticoes, supported by four canephorae, after those of the Erec- thei'um at Athens, and behind them are entire sarcophagi, to indicate that they lead to the mansions of the dead. The vaults or catacombs be- .TS'.VJj "by rto' li.^ii-eijiic-rj DgravcL tr.' Ja^ Tzn^le ST FMSILSF'S CHAFEIL, lEIit&ISM^ STIRBIST. TO'flELD MARSHALL. HIS "ROYAL HlGJiNE3S PHINCE LEOPOLD OE SAXE CO^URG.THIS PLATE IS BESPECTFUi-LY IKSCRIBEI faUished Sep 6.1627, by Jones.fc C 3- Acton Place, ffingsland Road.. Xondon DrJ.'*Ti bvTnu'' II olu-p bv .'.\' Tiudc (&ig(Q)M.«JlE'S CHAFlELi, Kl^fS-lSHT STREIET. Pobli'sTied Sep. fl. 18:17. "by Jones k C 3. Acton. Hkco, Kmg'slflnd Roat-, -:4^-::i_. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 167 neath the church, and to which these side porticoes lead, are constructed to hold two thousand coflins. St. Philip's Chapel, Regent Street. The portico is tetrastyle and of the Doric order. The central inter- columniation is wider than the rest, having a metope in the centie, and the entablature is svumounted by a triangular pediment. The metopes are ornamented by buUs' sculls and paterae, the emblems of pagan sacri- fice, and so far inappropriate to a Christian temple. In the wings, the cornice and mutides only are continued, the. triglyphs being judiciously omitted, which gives room for a loftier window than could otherwise have been introduced. Above the cornice of the wings is an attic decorated by sculptures of bulls' sculls and sacrificial wreaths, surmounted by a blocking course with an acroterium in the centre. The campanile is erected on a lofty cubical pedestal, which is embellished by a square panel including a circular one. The tower itself is a copy fi-om the beau- tifiil little circular temple at Athens, called the choragic monument of Lysicrates, but better known to travellers as the lantern of Demosthenes. St. Peter's Church, Eatox Square, Pimlico. This classical edifice is composed of an hexastyle portico of the Ionic order, which extends the whole width of the church. The columns are fluted and detached the entire width of an ' intercoliunniation firom the cell or body of the building. They support a lofty entablatiure, which is crowned by a pediment. Between the columns, in the main west wall of the church, are three doorways, panelled with square lacunarias and equi- distant styles, bounded by bold architraves, and crowned by handsome cornices supported by cantalivers. Above the pediment, and in the per- pendicular line of the back wall of the portico, is a raised building the whole width of the church, terminated at each end by pediments, much resembling the excrescences on the Mansion House in the city, and similar erections on the church of St. George, Hanover Square. Upon this spe- cies of stylobate is raised another parallelogrammatic pedestal, occupying the width of the four central columns, and decorated with panelled piers at each extremity ; and upon the upper surface of this, as upon a platfomi, the square bell tower is abruptly placed. This portion of the steeple is a handsome moulded cube, with a dial in each face, upon which is erected a classical tower and circular finial, the former being of the Ionic order. 168 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. St. Paul's Church, Ball's Pond, is a church very recently built from the designs of Mr. Barry, whose ncAv church at Brighton has given such general satisfaction. It is one of the most rural looking of all otir suburban churches, and wants but a little discolorisation, and better planting around it, to pass for a veritable country church. It is composed of a lofty nave lighted from above the roofs of the aisles, a square substantial brick tower with angular buttresses surmounted by crocheted pinnacles, and two aisles lighted by lancet- headed windows, which are separated by dwarf btittresses. The design is pirre in taste, and drawn from the best sources of our ancient English architecture. The New Church, Regent Square, Sidmouth Street, a composition similar, but inferior to that of St. Pancras, which may be considered at present as the masterpiece of the Messrs. Inwood. The western front consists of a hexastyle portico of the Ionic order, but which has the incorrect architrave of three faciae. The doors are in a similar style of majestic boldness with those of St. Pancras, and the steeple is a variation of the other, converting the octagon into circles. The windows in the flanks harmonize weU with the front, and the whole edifice is a chaste and pleasing composition. The New Church, Somers Town, is a district church in the parish of St. Pancras, in the pointed or English style of Gothic architecture, buUt of brick with stone dressings. The western front is simple and unpretending, and divided into five prin- cipal portions, the central of which forms the tower and entrance to the nave. The next two portions are plain, and the two extreme divisions are perforated by doorways which open into the aisles. These are sepa- rated by plain buttresses and surmounted with pinnacles. The tower is divided into three stories, the lowermost of which contains the principal entrance ; the next, which is mezzanine, holds the clock, its apparatus and dial, in a square sunk and moulded panel, and the upper stoiy is ap- propriated to a belfry. The parapet is perforated and panelled, and at each angle is a buttress finished with an octagonal pinnacle and foliated finial. Drawn by Tlio.il Sheplicrd. PuHlslied aug IS. 1826 07 Joaes t C? J.Acto 15io. H.olifpherd. RatfTRved bv .T. HiDClili' T THE KEW 1L.1BKA1I8.T. AMB PARLIAMENT (EHAKflBEK.S, DrawiL uy jjio.iL.Siicpaera. jraveitT- J.F: Havel TiaiKITir CEOTMSM, £IL,®1!JB]ESIi]EX SQTOffiE. TO w. TITJ,. KSQ. 'rat, AJlCJUrncT, THIS PI,ATE XS INSauHBU rnoW MOTiras ai" liBT-,,'. ', .:,;y,- METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. igg The Church of the Holy Trinity, Cloudesley Square, Islington, a Gothic edifice of similar good taste to that recently mentioned at Ball's Pond, and hy the same architect, Mr. Baarryj and it deserves the same praise, for characteristic design and solidity of construction, as that very rural looking church. The Unitarian Chapel, Finsbury, is unorthodox in every respect, and dissents from the trae faith of legiti- mate architecture. Its principal front consists of four three-quarter Ionic columns, guaided hy two pairs of antae, and a remarkably iU-proportioned entablatm'e and pediment, which is surmounted by something like a minia- ture stack of chimneys. It is also disfigured by the introduction of dwelling house sash windows. The New Church, Waterloo Road, dedicated to St. John the evangelist, was built firom the designs of Mr. Bedford in 1824. It has some faults and many beauties ; the columns of the portico are of the Ughtest style of the Doric order, and, though rather effeminate for that masculine order, are beautifully proportioned and sys- tematically arranged. The portico is hexastyle and joined to the body of the church, with antique propriety, as a continuation of the lateral cornice and roof But all this propriety of annexation, and real beauty of pro- portion, is absolutely destroyed by the atrocity of a steeple, the ugliest perhaps in London, which is straddled a cock-horse across the pediment. The entablature is weak and firagile, when the order to which it is adapted is taken into consideration. The Meze is denuded of its charac- teristic triglyphs and metopes, and trivial wreaths of laurel inefficiently substituted; the steeple is a series of quadrangular buildings, placed one upon the other and diminishing seriatim as they arise. At the angles are affixed quadrants of spheres and Grecian honey-suckles sculptured in their sectional faces. The New Church of St. John, Holloway, is another of Mr. Barry's examples of pure ancient English ai-chitecture, and is equally creditable to his good taste in that beautiful department of our art as his new church in Cloudesley Square, his restoration of St. Marj' (Stoke Newington), his new churches in the Ball's Pond Road and 2 z 170 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. at Brighton. It is composed, like that of St. Paul's, Ball's Pond, of a nave and two aisles, with pointed windows and dwai'f buttresses between them, and a substantial square tower, with angular buttresses surmounted by crocketed pinnacles. This durable and handsome church is built with brick and stone, after the ancient English method, which is as pleasing in appearance as it is strong in principle. Albion Chapel, Moorfields, is a neat and unaffected building, with a pretty little diastyle portico in antis of the Ionic order, designed by a young architect of the name of Jay. The roof gives it somewhat the air of a theatre, but it possesses a character of original thinking in its design that is highly pleasing. It was formerly occupied by the Rev. Alexander Fletcher, a clergyman of the Scots Secession Chiu'ch, who has removed to the more spacious and handsome chapel in the neighbourhood, before noticed under the name of Finsbury Chapel. The London Orphan Asylum, Clapton. This laudable charity provides for and accommodates three hundred destitute orphans, and is situate at Clapton, near Hackney, and is from a classical design of the Grecian Doric order. It consists of four parts, a centre and two wings, and a chapel connected with the latter by a dwarf colonnade. The most striking feature of this pleasing edifice is the central building in front, which is used for the chapel. It is a pure Greek prostyle temple, with a tetrastyle portico of the Doric order, bearing an inscription on the frieze, instead of triglyphs, importing that it was insti- tuted in 1813, and erected in 1823. The pediment is plain, but in just altitude to the order, and has mutules under the corona. The wing build- ings have antee at their angles, and the roofs form pediments to the order. The centre behind the temple accords in elevation with the wings, and has a wide and lofty pediment to give it its proper consequence. The centi-al temple is joined to the wings by a low Doric colonnade, the roof of which affords shelter to an ambulatory below, that leads from the ^ings to the chapel. Asylum for Female Orphans, Westminster, a charitable institution, originally established by Sir John Fielding, in 1758, for the laudable purpose of preserving poor friendless and deserted iVpli;l-ccf .'U--.C " 1328 "by Jones Sc C? i7kLcri_ .^ace, i^Ltfcla^ Koai, IoH8o3.. ^' '-^pfcriP Tlf AH mi^;iG>3fc,, i^^ir^iCABEILili;^ -j^^'- d^June 7 laza bj Jones fc C 5 rVton Place. lung'alsiidJtoai, London METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 171 girls under twelve years of age from the miseries and dangers of prostitu- tion ; whilst its neighbour, the Magdalen, endeavours to reform those who have fallen into such ways. The centre of this architectural composition is a portico, or rather porch, of the Ionic order, selected from a choice example of the purest Grecian elegance, and the whole building, notwithstanding some defects of detail, is one of the prettiest productions of the present day. Temple of the Muses, Finsbury Square, a building so named by its eccentric founder, the late James Lackington, who realized a competency, by the sale of second-hand books, on the sure principle of small profits and quick returns ; and was succeeded in busi- ness by his nephew, of the firm of Lackington, Allen, & Co. On their removal westward, this large concern was for a long time empty, till it was taken by Messrs. Jones & Co. the proprietors of the present work, and opened by them for the publication and sale of their works only. It may be thought unseemly here to descant on the merits of these particular editions, nor can it be necessary, since the immense circulation, not only at home, but throughout the Continent of Eiurope, America, and India, is a sufficient test of superiority and of the successfiil issue of a bold and original plan. Suffice it to say, that the object was to combine a vast saving of expense, portability, and facility of reference, with con-ectness, typographical beauty, and good taste. This has been effectually applied to the most popular and valuable works in English literature, comprising an Historical Series — ^The British Classics, or Essayists — a Dramatic and a Poetical Series, all in an Octavo library size — a Cabinet Edition of Select British Poets, in Four Volumes Duo- decimo, (comprising nearly as much as the Sixty Volumes of " Johnson's Poet's," and including recent authors, in lieu of those of inferior merit,) — A Diamond Edition of the Poets— Classic Tales, &c. (the smallest ever printed — and each author detached, as a sort of waistcoat pocket companion), besides many other works of miscellaneous character. Last, though not least in success and popularity, has been the present work, forming part of a general series, under the title of "Jones' Great Britain Illustrated ;" and of which London — Edinburgh — Bath, Bristol, and Wales — and Gentlemen's Seats, (North and Western Series,) are now in progress. In addition to the above-mentioned series of British authors, and intended as a companion, they have also announced 172 METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. a Series of the most approved Translations from the Greek and Roman Classics, which is in a fonvai'd state of preparation. — to com- mence with Baker's Livy, complete in One Elegaiit Octavo Volume, at one-fourth the price of former editions. ALPHABETICAL LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS, WITH A REFERENCE TO THE DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS. Achilles (Statue of), p. 133. Asylum, Orphan, p. 170. for Indigent Blind, p. 149. Andrew's (St.), Place, p. 80. Auction Mart, p. 159. Albany Cottage, p. 49. Apsley House, p. 160. Bsink of England, from Bartholomew Lane, p. 128. , North and West Front, ib. , East Front, ib. Brewer's Alms Houses, p. 142. Burlington Arcade, p. 141. Belgprave Square, Pimlico, p. 154. Bride's (St.) Avenue, p. 149, Bethlehem Hospital, p. 151. Buildings, Highfield, Camden Road, p. 161 . Bridge over the Serpentine, Hyde Park, p. 136. Coliseum, Regent's Park, p. 68. , and Part of the Lake, p. 19. Clarence Terrace, p. 46. Cornwall Terrace, ib. Cumberland Terrace, p. 23. , Centre of, ib. Chester Terrace, p. 67. Caiftbridge Terrace, p. 68. College, Church Missionary, p. 145. of Surgeons, p. 146. of Physicians, p. 124. City Basin, Regent's Canal, p. 157. Charing Cross, Improvements, p. 124. ;' Custom House, New,, p. 132. from Thames Street, ib. Crockford's Club House, p. 140. Com Exchange, New, p. 146. Caledonian Asylum, p. 156. Covent Garden Market, p. 160. ''" ' East, or Gloucester Gate, Regent's Park, p. 23. Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, p. 157. Entrance, Grand, to Hy6e Park, p. 138. ■ to the King's Palace, p. 133. Fumival's Inn, p. 138. Guildhall, London, p. 152. , Westminster, p. 155. Greenhough's, Mr., Villa, Regent's Park, p. 30. Grosvenor's, Lord, Gallery, p. 145. Government Mews, p. 139. Gass Works, Regent's Canal, p. 161. Hanover Terrace, Regent's Park, p. 48. Lodge, Ditto, p. 50. Highbury College, p. 145. Holme, The, Regent's Park, p. 27. Hertford's, Marquess ofj Villa, p. 51. Haberdasher's Alms Houses; p. 143. Hannonic Institution, p. 102. Hammersmith Suspension Bridge, p. 147. Hall, New, Christ's Hospital, p. 140. Islington Timnel, p. 157. Island on the Lake, Regent's Park, p. 19. King's Entrance to the House of Lords, p. 153. Katherine's (St.) Hospital, p. 59. London, General View of, p. 1. Bridge, New, p. 147. University, p. 125. ' Institution, p. 126. ■ Orphan Asylum, Clapton, p. 170. Ophthalmic Infirmary, p. 149. Horse and Carriage Repository, p. 142. . , Another View, ib. Lodge, New, Hyde Park, p. 137. Limehouse Dock, p. 157. Langham Place, p, 94. Licenced Victuallers' School, p. 157. Library, New, Temple, p. 162. Macclesfield Bridge, p. 58. Maberly's, Mr., Villa, p. 24. Milbank Penitentiary, p. 150, Opera House, Haymarlcet, p. 148. li LIST OF ENGRAVINGS Openings New, to St. Martin's Church, p. 123. Paul's, St., School, p. 126, Post Office, New, p. 158. Park Village East, p. 20. , Second View, ib. Park Crescent, p. 92. — — — — and Diorama, p. 80. Square, p. 88. Parliament House, p. 153. Pall Mall East, New Buildings, p. 155. Royal Exchange, p. 158. Regent's Park, Plan of, p. 19. ■ , View in, p. 20. , Canal, Entrance, p. 157. , Junction, p. ib. , Villa in, p. 24. , Doric Villa, ib. Regent's Quadrant, p. 114. , and part of Regent Street, ib. Regent Street, part of East side of, p. 98. , , Another View of, p. 110. , Ditto, p. 114. , Buildings in, ib. , Ditto, p. 115. , from Circus, Piccadilly, p. 99. , from Quadrant, ib. , part of West side, p. 97. -, Ditto continued, ib. Richmond Terrace, p. 137. Russel Institution, p. 132. Sussex Place, p. 48. South ViUa, p. 24. Southwark Bridge, p. 137. Surry Theatre, p. 134. Salter's Hall, p. 152. Suffolk Street, Pall Mall East, p. 123. Shot Tower, p. 127. Treasury, Whitehall, p. 148. Taylor's, Sir Herbert, Residence, p. 65. Temple of the Muses, Finsbury, p. 170. Theatre Royal, Dmry Lane, p. 135. , Covent Garden, p. 144. Ulster Terrace, p. 79. United Service Club House, p. 125. Vauxhall Bridge, p. 159. Waterloo Bridge, p. 127. Place, p, 121. Wittington's Alms Houses, p. 141. West Gate, Regent's Park, p. 19. York House, p. 122. Terrace.p. 44. Baths, ib. Gate, p. 35. NEW CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. All- souls Church, Langham Place, p. 97. Albion Chapel, Moorgate, p. 170. Barnabas, St., Church, King Square, p. 162. Belgrave Chapel, Pimlico, p. 153. Catholic Chapel, Moorfields, p. 170. Camden Town New Church, p. 162. Finsbury Chapel, p. 163. George's, St., Chapel, Regent Street, p. iOO. Hackney, West, Chapel of Ease, p. 163. Haggerstone New Church, ib. John's, St., Hoxton, Church, p. 164. , HoUoway, p. 169. Luke's, St., Church, Chelsea, p. 164. Mary-le-bone Chapel of Ease, Stafford Street, p. 165. . , John's Wood Road, p. 165. Mark's, St., Pentonville, p. 165. Mary's, St., Church, Wyndham Place, p. 166. Pancras, St., Church, New Road, ib. Philip's, St., Chapel, Regent Street, p. 167. Peter's, St., Church, Pimlico, ib. Paul's, St., Church, BaU's Pond Road, p. 168. Regent Square Church, Sidmouth Street, p. 168. Somers Town New Church, p. 168. Stepney New Church, p. 139. Scotch Church, Gray's Inn Road, p. 151. Trinity Church, New Road, p. 81. , Cloudesley Square, p. 169. Temple Church, as restored, p. 131. Unitarian Chapel, Finsbury, p. 169. Waterloo Road, New Church, p. 169 PlI.lii'liilP-B'Ji- k^5!^^