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BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME 
 FROM THE 
 
 SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 1891 
 
 a^.7.5.5.2.5..& ■■3.i.\.mAu.. 
 
 1357 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924063845923 
 
BOOKS ON GARDENING. 
 
 LATELY PUBLISHED. 
 HANDY-BOOK OP THE FLOWEE-GAEDElSr : Being 
 
 Practical Directions for the Propagation, Culture, and Arrangement 
 of Plants in Flower-trardeus aU the Year Round. Embracing all 
 classes of Grardens, from the largest to the smallest. With Engraved 
 and Coloured Plans, illustrative of the various Systems of Grouping 
 in Beds and Borders. By David Thomson, Gardener to his Grace 
 the Duke of Buccleuoh, K.G., at Drumlanrig. A New and Enlarged 
 Edition,, crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 "Its author is entitled to great praise for the simple and clear manner 
 in which he has explained the cultural directions, which, if carefully com- 
 plied with, will enable the non-professional floriculturist to grow plants as 
 well as any gardener." — Gardeners' Chronicle. 
 
 " We are acquainted with the results produced by the able author, as 
 well as with his book, and therefore can pronounce the book the best on 
 the subject yet written, or likely to be written for a long time to come." — 
 TAe Field. 
 
 " This ' Handy-Book ' deserves a welcome from all classes interested in 
 floriculture." — Saturday Review. 
 
 HANDBOOK OF HAEDY HEEBACEOUS AND AL- 
 PINE FLOWERS FOR GENERAL GARDEN DECORATION. 
 Containing Descriptions, in Plain Language, of upwards of 1000 
 Species of Ornamental Hardy Perennial and Alpine Plants, adapted 
 to all Classes of Flower-Gardens, Rookwork, Groves, and Waters ; 
 along with Concise and Plain Instructions for their Propagation and 
 Culture. By William Sutheeland, Gardener to the Earl of Minto ; 
 formerly Manager of the Herbaceous Department at Kew. Crown 
 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " This is an unpretending but valuable work, well adapted to furnish 
 information respecting a class of plants certainly rising in popular estima- 
 tion. . . . We cordially recommend his book to the notice of our readers, 
 as likely to be, from a gardening point of view, the standard work on 
 Herbaceous Plants." — Gardeners' Chronicle. 
 
 " The best book of its class available for English rea.ders."—Garde7iers' 
 Magadne. 
 
BOOKS ON GARDENING-i 
 
 A BOOK ABOUT EOSES, how to Grow and Show 
 THEM. By S. Eetnolds Hole, Author of ' A Little Tour in Ireland. ' 
 Fourth Edition, Enlarged. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " It is the production of a man who boasts of thirty ■ all England ' cups, 
 whose Koses are always looked for anxiously at flower-shows, who took 
 the lion's share in originating the first Eose-show pv,r et simple, -whose 
 assistance as judge or amicus curiw is always courted at such exhibitions. 
 Such a man 'ought to have something to say worth hearing to those who 
 love the Rose,' and he Jims said it."— Gardeners' Chronicle. 
 
 "A very captivating hook, containing a great deal of valuable informa- 
 tion about the Rose and its culture, given in a style which cannot fail to 
 please." — Jownal of SorticuUwe. 
 
 ON OENAMENTAL-FOLIAGED PELAEGONIUMS ; 
 
 with Practical Hints for their Production, Propagation, and Cultiva- 
 tion. By Peter Grieve, Culford, Bury St Edmunds. Second Edi- 
 tion, enlarged, including description of Best Varieties introduced up to 
 the present time, and Engravings. Crown 8vo, 4s. 
 
 THE HANDY-BOOK OF BEES, and thbib profitable 
 Management. By A. Pettiqeew, Rusholme, Manchester. Crown 
 8vo, 4s. 6d. 
 
 " The author of this volume is evidently a practical man, and knows a 
 great deal more about bees and their habits than most of the bee-keepers 
 in England ; indeed he may be said to be a very master in the art of bee 
 mysteries." — Bell's Life in London. 
 
 " This volume is throughout so obviously the result of observation and 
 ripe experience as to leave no doubt of its value aa a manual for the apiar- 
 ist." — Bristol Mercfwry. 
 
 " How to manage bees properly, so as to make a profit, is so clearly and 
 pleasantly told in this capital work, that we need not trespass on its pages 
 longer." — Sherlome Journal. 
 
 " "We recommend his book to all who wish to spread a knowledge of this 
 useful art among their neighbours and friends."— LaTid and Water. 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, EDnJBURQH and London. 
 
DOMESTIC FLORICULTURE 
 
' To study culture, and with artful toil 
 To 'meliorate and tame the stubborn soil. 
 To give dissimilar yet fruitful lands 
 The grain, the herb, the plant, that each demands ; 
 To cherish virtue in a humble state 
 And share the joys your bounty may create ; 
 To watch the-matchless^working-of-the Power 
 That shuts within its seed the future flower — 
 
 These, these are arts piursued without a crime. 
 That leave no stain upon the wings of Time." 
 
 — COWPER- 
 
DOMESTIC FLORICULTURE 
 
 WINDOW -GARDENING AND FLORAL 
 DECORATIONS 
 
 PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE PROPAGATION, CULTURE, 
 
 AND ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS AND FLOWERS 
 
 AS DOMESTIC ORNAMENTS 
 
 F. W. BURBIDGE 
 
 AUTHOR OF 'cool ORCHIDS, AND HOW TO GROW THEM,' ETC. 
 
 IV/TN 200 ILLUSTRATIONS ON WOOD 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS 
 EDINBURGH AND LONDON 
 
 MDCCCLXXIV 1?14 
 
SB 
 £14 
 
 1 i 
 
 A.tssaS?> 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 " Bright gems of earth, by which perchance we see 
 What Eden was — what Paradise may be." 
 
 jjLORAL decorations, in the form of wreaths 
 and garlands, have been popular for ages, 
 and the use of cut blossoms and foliage 
 for religious or personal ornaments is a 
 time-honoured custom of high antiquity among the 
 more refined nations of both hemispheres. The rosy- 
 goddess Flora was reverenced by the Phocians and 
 Sabines long before the foundation of the Roman 
 capital ; and we read that in the time of Romulus an 
 annual festival was instituted in her honour, and as 
 ■' a kind of rejoicing at the appearance of the spring 
 blossoms." But it was not until about 500 years after- 
 wards that the " Floral Games," or Floralia, were 
 regularly established. The May-day festivals, so 
 attractive to our ancestors, were doubtless originated 
 in this country by the Romans themselves ; and so 
 popular were these vernal rejoicings at one time, that 
 not only the people, but the sovereign and the court, 
 took part in their celebration. We read that in 1515, 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 King Henry VIII. and his court rode "a-Maying 
 from Greenwich to the top of Shooter's Hill." Shake- 
 speare notes the pleasures of May-day in his time; and, 
 at a much more recent period, Pope alludes to this 
 now nearly obsolete custom in the following lines — 
 
 " Amid the wide area she took her stand 
 Where the tall May-pole once o'erlooked the Strand." 
 
 The use of bright-coloured or fragant flowers is often 
 alluded to by the ancient poets and philosophers, but 
 the precise period at which the custom of cultivating 
 plants in dwellings originated seems to be shrouded 
 in mystery. 
 
 Amongst the oldest and best - known window- 
 plants used in this country of late years, we may 
 mention Fuchsias and Hydrangeas (which lattef occa- 
 sionally astonished their possessors by bearing blue 
 flowers in place of rose-coloured ones). Tussilago 
 fragrans is also mentioned as being " planted in pots 
 for the purpose of perfuming winter apartments ; " 
 while Cyclamens, Auriculas, and Myrtles were com- 
 mon many years ago. Richardia aethiopica, or Lily of 
 the Nile, was grown by Miller in the Chelsea Botanic 
 Garden as early as 173 1 ; and in ' Flora Domestica ' 
 (1824) we read that, "The more polished part of 
 society admit the Ethiopian Calla, a species of Arum, 
 into their most embellished saloons, where its alabaster 
 calyx expands into so elegant a vase-like shape, that 
 Flora seems to have intended it for the hand of Hebe, 
 when she presents the imperial nectar to Jove," — add- 
 ing that " the fashion of ornamenting the houses in 
 London with plants, when routs are given, greatly 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 
 contributed to bring it into celebrity, and as a con- 
 spicuous candle-light plant it was therefore increased 
 by all rout furnishing florists." Campanula pyra- 
 midalis was also an extremely popular window-plant 
 fifty or sixty years ago, being frequently employed 
 by country people, then as now, to decorate their 
 windows ; or when trained round a hoop, or into the 
 shape of a fan, it sometimes served as a screen " to 
 the rustic grate of a country parlour." This is the 
 " Steeple milky Bell-flower'' of Gerard, and has been 
 grown in our gardens nearly 300 years. 
 
 Cowper, in the " Task," celebrates Mignonette as a 
 favourite window-plant in London during the latter 
 part of the last century — 
 
 " The sashes fronted with a range 
 Of Orange, Myrtle, ot the fragrant weed ;" 
 
 and Philips, in his ' Flora Domestica,' says, " We have 
 frequently found the perfume of the Mignonette so 
 powerful in some of the better streets of London, 
 that we have considered it sufficient to protect the 
 inhabitants from those effluvias which bring disorders 
 in the air." This latter statement is remarkable inas- 
 much as recent researches prove the beneficial influ- 
 ence exerted not only by this but by many other 
 odorous flowers; and we are now recommended to 
 plant Sunflowers (Helianthus), and the Fever or Blue 
 Gum - tree of Australia (Eucalyptus), as a prevent- 
 ive of pestilential diseases in marshy or malarious 
 localities. 
 
 Chrysanthemums were introduced in 1764, and again 
 in 179s, and, "like the Roses of China, the Chrysan- 
 
viii PREFACE. 
 
 themums soon escaped from the conservatories of the 
 curious, and as rapidly spread themselves over every 
 part of the island, filling the casements of the cot- 
 tagers with their autumnal beauties." It is rather 
 singular to find that the "Winter Cherry" {Physalis 
 alkekengi) has been grown in our gardens as a 
 decorative plant since 1548, or over 300 years ago; 
 and it appears to have been commonly grown in the 
 time of Gerard, who quaintly tells us that " the 
 Redde Winter Cherrie groweth vpon olde broken 
 wals about the borders offieldes, and in moist shadowy 
 places, where some conserve it for the beautie of its 
 berries, and others for the great and woortby vertues 
 thereof" 
 
 Philips, writing in 1824, says: "At present the ber- 
 ries are seldom used with us, excepting to mingle in 
 bouquets of dried flowers, or to ornament the chimney- 
 pieces of cottage parlours." 
 
 Lobelias of the L. cardinalis section were esteemed 
 many years ago as window-plants, and China Asters 
 were also used occasionally in pots and boxes for a 
 like purpose ; while the Blue Throatwort (TracheUum 
 cceruleum) was often used as a decorative plant, not 
 only in pots, but also partially naturalised on old 
 walls, along with Snapdragons (Antirrhinum) and 
 Wallflowers (Cheiranthus). 
 
 Balsams (Impatiens) have been grown in our gar- 
 dens for the last 300 years, and have long been 
 esteemed as decorative window - plants by cottage 
 florists. 
 
 Convolvuli, both C. tricolor and C. major, were 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 known in the time of Charles I., for Parkinson (1629) 
 tells us that he received seeds of the former out of 
 Spain, and that the flowers are " of a most excellent 
 skie-coloured blew, so pleasant to behold that often 
 it amazeth the spectator." 
 
 Succulents, as Phyllacactus (" Cactuses "), Cape 
 Aloes, more especially the well-known A. variegata 
 introduced in 1720, and many species of Mesembry- 
 anthemums, have long been cultivated in cottage 
 windows. Another old sweet - scented favourite, 
 Aloysia citriodora, was introduced in 1784, and is still 
 very generally grown as a decorative plant ; while 
 some of the earliest varieties of fancy or hybrid 
 Geraniums (Pelargonium) soon found their way from 
 the gardens of the florist or wealthy amateur into 
 cottage windows, where their more beautiful repre- 
 sentatives still remain. 
 
 The well-known " Aaron's-beard " {Saxifraga sar- 
 mentosd) was introduced from China in 1771, and is 
 still one of the most popular of all window-plants on 
 account of its free habit of growth and viviparous 
 mode of reproducing itself. Many more examples 
 might be given, but the above rough sketch is suffi- 
 cient for our present purpose. We have shown the 
 custom of employing flowers and living plants for 
 purposes of domestic and personal ornament to be 
 an old one ; while at the present time they speak a 
 language peculiarly their own, and enter largely into 
 the expression of the joys and sorrows, the light and 
 shade, of our everyday existence. Window-garden- 
 ing has spread from humble cottages to the mansions 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 in our busy towns, and on all sides we have societies 
 fostering a love for the more extended culture of 
 decorative plants among all classes of society. The 
 indoor cultivation of plants and flowers has especial 
 attractions for the invalid, and the interesting employ- 
 ment thus afforded serves to brighten or while away 
 many a tedious hour. Even a few cut-flowers and 
 fresh leaves or sweet -smelling herbs kept in water, 
 afford relief to the eye of the sufferer, and help to 
 divert it from wandering over the cheerless walls of 
 the hospital, or from peering into the deep shadows 
 of the sick-room. 
 
 The pure and lasting taste for beautiful plants and 
 flowers, if firmly implanted in the youthful mind, 
 almost invariably exerts its beneficial influence for 
 good ; hence gardening ought to be made use of in 
 all our public schools as an educational appliance of 
 the highest possible value. We believe great results 
 would follow, from a national point of view, if the 
 rudiments of gardening and its sister art farming 
 were practically taught in our schools more generally 
 than is at present the case. 
 
 In writing this little work, the author hopes to 
 have said much that will prove suggestive in principle 
 as well as directly instructive to the reader, since the 
 abundance of material now at our command admits 
 of endless combinations according to the circum- 
 stances or local surroundings of each particular case. 
 It must be remembered that, in an art like Domestic 
 Floriculture, there is no practical limit to ways and 
 means, and one's taste in this as in all other decora- 
 
PREFACE. xi 
 
 tive arts, is improved by studious practice and good 
 examples. 
 
 Many who have no little garden wherein to grow 
 a few sweet-scented flowers, yet manage to extem- 
 porise ways and means to gratify the love of nature 
 which appears to be nearly universal. Window-gar- 
 dening in towns has doubtless been practised for cen- 
 turies under difficulties, and the garden poet alludes 
 to the practice in the following lines : — 
 
 ' ' There the pitcher stands 
 A fragment, and the spoutless teapot there ; 
 Sad witnesses how close-pent man regrets 
 The country, with what ardour he contrives 
 A peep at nature when he can no more." — Cowpee. 
 
 It now remains for me to acknowledge the kind- 
 ness of those gentlemen who have assisted me in this 
 work. To Messrs James Veitch & Sons of Chelsea, 
 and to Messrs Hooper & Co., of Covent Garden, I 
 am especially indebted for many of the pretty little 
 plant-cuts scattered through the following pages ; and 
 to Messrs Dick, Radclyffe, & Co. of High Holborn, 
 Mr B. S. Williams of Holloway, and Messrs James 
 Bromwich & Co. of South Belgravia, my thanks are 
 due for many illustrations of horticultural elegancies, 
 as also to others who very kindly placed their illus- 
 trations at my disposal for this work ; while most of 
 the original illustrations employed are engraved by 
 Mr J. W. Whymper from my own designs on wood. 
 
 Reference has also been made to the following 
 works bearing on the subject in hand : ' Treasury of 
 Botany ' (Lindley & Moore), ' Hardy Flowers ' (Rob- 
 
Xll PREFACE. 
 
 inson), 'Fleurs de Plein Terre' (Vilmorin), 'Handy 
 Book of the Flower - Garden ' (Thomson), 'Select 
 Ferns' (Williams), 'Encyclopaedia of Plants' (Lou- 
 don), ' Illustrated Catalogue of Bulbs ' (Veitch), ' Gar- 
 dening Guide' (Hooper), ' Gardeners' Chronicle,' ' The 
 Garden,' ' The Gardener,' and most of the French, 
 German, and American periodicals devoted to gar- 
 dening and rural economy. 
 
 F. W. B. 
 
 London, April 1874. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART I.— CULTURAL. 
 
 Introduction, .... 
 
 Gardening in the house, 
 
 Facilities for study afforded by plant-culture. 
 
 Propagation, .... 
 
 Soil for potting, .... 
 
 Manures or stimulants. 
 
 Pots and potting, .... 
 
 Watering plants, .... 
 
 Ventilation and heating. 
 
 Noxious insects which infest window-plants, 
 
 Gardening in close or glazed cases. 
 
 Wintering tender plants in frames and windows. 
 
 How to grow hyacinths in water, for window decoration, 
 
 Instructions for the growth of bulbs in windows, 
 
 Hanging-baskets for the window or balcony. 
 
 Orchids for the sitting-room, 
 
 How to grow the Chinese primula, or " Everybody's 
 
 Flower," .... 
 
 The window-garden in winter. 
 Hints on hybridising. 
 Calendar of window-gardening operations, &c., 
 
 PAGE 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 33 
 38 
 39 
 43 
 47 
 5° 
 52 
 64 
 68 
 72 
 75 
 83 
 
 86 
 88 
 92 
 95 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PART II.— ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 Introduction, ..... 
 
 Bouquets, wreaths, and vase decorations, . 
 
 Floral decorations for the dinner-table, . 
 
 Arranging fruit for dessert, 
 
 Everlastings or immortelles for winter decoration. 
 
 Arrangement of plants in rooms, . 
 
 How to dry flowers and ferns for winter decorations, 
 
 How to colour or dye flowers, ferns, mosses, and grasses, 
 
 Fern-frond designs, .... 
 
 How to skeletonise leaves and seed-vessels for winter 
 
 decorations, ..... 
 Floral odours and perfumes. 
 Leaf-printing from natural specimens. 
 How to form a herbarium of wild or cultivated flowers, 
 Church decorations, .... 
 
 Flowers for cemeteries, .... 
 
 PART III.— DESCRIPTIVE. 
 Introduction, ..... 
 
 Alphabetical list of plants suitable for room, window, or 
 balcony culture, .... 
 
 Implements, materials, and appliances for indoor gar 
 dening, ...... 
 
 List of aquatic plants, 
 
 1 Palms and cycads, . 
 p Ferns and lycopods, 
 I Succulent plants, .... 
 
 I Foliage-plants, .... 
 
 I Hardy climbing and trailing plants for walls and 
 trellises, ..... 
 
 List of orchids, ..... 
 
 Select list of ornamental grasses, . 
 
 List of hardy annuals, .... 
 
 List of half-hardy annuals, 
 
 Seeds for autumn sowing, .... 
 
 List of hardy herbaceous plants for window and balcony 
 decoration, ..... 
 
 Hardiness of plants, .... 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Common wooden window- 
 
 
 box, .... 
 
 13 
 
 Zinc box faced witli enamelled 
 
 
 tiles, . . . . 
 
 13 
 
 Zinc window-box faced with 
 
 
 ornamental tiles. 
 
 13 
 
 Bracket pot, 
 
 14 
 
 Fern brick, .... 
 
 14 
 
 Window-box (inside), . 
 
 '5 
 
 Inside view of outside win- 
 
 
 dow - box and aquarium 
 
 
 combined, 
 
 16 
 
 Large plant-case and aqua- 
 
 
 rium 
 
 17 
 
 Heated case, 
 
 28 
 
 Section of heated case. 
 
 29 
 
 Vaporiser, .... 
 
 SI 
 
 Injecteur, .... 
 
 SI 
 
 Albert fern-case, . 
 
 S2 
 
 Ornamental plant-case out- 
 
 
 side window, . 
 
 S3 
 
 Plant-case, .... 
 
 S4 
 
 Rustic plant-shade. 
 
 SS 
 
 Rustic fern-shade. 
 
 56 
 
 Rustic pan. 
 
 57 
 
 Rustic fern-case, . 
 
 57 
 
 Fernery case outside French 
 
 
 window, . . . • 
 
 58 
 
 Conservatory built out from 
 
 house. 
 Improved hand-light, . 
 Common hand-light, . 
 Improved garden-frames, 
 Hyacinth-glass, . 
 Hanging-basket with ferns, 
 
 &c.. 
 Hanging-basket with ferns, 
 
 &c., 
 Saxifraga tricolor. 
 Rustic basket with ferns, 
 Wall pot-holders. 
 Variegated ivy - leaved ger- 
 anium, 
 A simple window-garden in 
 
 winter, . 
 Winter balcony garden, 
 A simple spray of flowers, 
 A graceful wreath. 
 Dinner-table or drawing-room 
 
 centre-piece for flowers. 
 Plain glasses for flowers. 
 Basket of Marechal Niel 
 
 rose, 
 A tasteful dinner-table de- 
 
 coration, arranged by Miss 
 
 Annie Hassard, 
 
 59 
 63 
 63 
 64 
 69 
 
 76 
 
 77 
 79 
 81 
 82 
 
 83 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 126 
 129 
 
 131 
 132 
 
 134 
 
 136 
 
XVI 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 March stand tastefully ar- 
 ranged with flowers, ferns, 
 and grasses, , . . 137 
 Dmner- table decoration, com- 
 posed of ferns, selaninella, 
 and lily of the valley flow- 
 ers and foliage, . .139 
 Caladium as a vase-plant, . 140 
 Maranta as a vase-plant, . I41 
 Dinner-table decorated with 
 
 palms, .... 142 
 Pot concealed below table- 
 top 143 
 
 Dirmer-table group, . . 144 
 Plan of convertible vase, . 144 
 Convertible dinner-table vase 
 
 (sectional view), . . 145 
 Vase decorated with grasses, 146 
 Dinner-table arch, . . 147 
 Trumpet-shaped glass vase, . 148 
 Vase with a few orchid flowers 
 
 and ferns, . . . 148 
 
 Table-palm, . . .151 
 Basket of flowers and grasses, 1 60 
 Chimney - piece vases, with 
 
 flowers and grasses, . . 161 
 Ornamental flower-pots and 
 stands, with plants of Ficus 
 elastica and Mauritia flex- 
 uosa, .... 163 
 Fireplace decorated with ferns 
 and trailing-plants during 
 the summer, . . . 164 
 Ornamental screen of ferns 
 and grasses for fireplace 
 during summer, . .164 
 A drawing-room bracket, . 165 
 Ivy-draped mirror, . . 167 
 Tin for ivy for mirror, &c. . 168 
 Yuccas, New Zealand flax, 
 palms, india - rubber, and 
 ivy grouped around sofa 
 arbour in the drawing- 
 room, .... 168 
 
 Plan of plants in a London 
 
 mansion, . . .170 
 
 Box for drying flowers, . 177 
 Cross of skeletonised leaves, 185 
 Wreathofskeletonisedleaves, 185 
 Church decorations, . . 203 
 Church decorations, . . 204 
 Button-hole bouquet, . . 209 
 Abobra viridiflora . .212 
 Acanthus latifolius, . . 213 
 Acroclinium roseum, . .214 
 Adiantum formosum, . .215 
 Adlumia (cirrhosa) purpurea, 216 
 Adonis vemalis, . . .216 
 Agapanthus umbellatus, . 217 
 Variegated American aloe, . 218 
 Agrostis nebulosa, . . 220 
 Aloe frutescens, . . . 222 
 Alonsoa Warszewiczii com- 
 
 pacta 223 
 
 Amaryllis Belladonna (Bella- 
 donna lily), . . . 224 
 Amaryllis formosissima (Ja- 
 
 cobea lily), . . . 225 
 Amaryllis (Nerine) samiensis 
 
 (Guernsey lily, . . 226 
 
 Amorphophallus Rivieri, . 227 
 Anthericum liliastrum, . 230 
 
 Apios tuberosa, . .231 
 
 Rice-paper plant (Aralia 
 
 papyrifera) 232 
 
 Japanese Aralia (A. Sieboldii), 233 
 Asclepias tuberosa, , . . 235 
 Hybrid Begonia, . . . 240 
 Begonia Veitchii, . . 241 
 Boussingaultia baselloides, . 243 
 Briza maxima, . . . 244 
 Brodisea coccinea, . . 245 
 Canna Warszewiczii, . . 247 
 Ixia longiflora, . . . 249 
 Babiana atrocyanea, . . 249 
 Tritonia crocata, . . , 249 
 Ixia viridiflora, . . . 249 
 Cockscomb, . . .250 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 XVll 
 
 Cephalotus foUicularis, 
 
 ■ 251 
 
 Chamserops humilis, 
 
 • 2S3 
 
 Cineraria hybrida, 
 
 . 256 
 
 Clematis Fortunei, 
 
 ■ 257 
 
 Clianthus Dampieri, 
 
 . 258 
 
 Cobaea scandens, . 
 
 . 258 
 
 Ipomoea bona-nox, 
 
 . 260 
 
 Corypha australis, 
 
 . 261 
 
 Cyperus altemifolius, 
 
 ■ 263 
 
 Cucumls flexuosus, 
 
 . 264 
 
 Cucumis dipsaceus, 
 
 . 264 
 
 Lagenaria vulgaris, 
 
 . 264 
 
 Memordica balsamina, 
 
 . 264 
 
 Cyclamen Persicum, 
 
 . 266 
 
 Cyclamen Atkinsi, 
 
 . 266 
 
 Darlingtonia Califomic 
 
 a, . 267 
 
 Dielytra spectabilis 
 
 , 268 
 
 Dionsea muscipula, 
 
 . 269 
 
 Window-box fumishec 
 
 with 
 
 Dracaenas, 
 
 . 270 
 
 Drosera rotundifolia, . 
 
 . 272 
 
 Dyckia (Hechtia) arger 
 
 itea, . 273 
 
 Echeveria metallica gla 
 
 aca, . 274 
 
 Specimen of Equisetuir 
 
 1 in a 
 
 pot, 
 
 . 276 
 
 Eranthis hyemalis, 
 
 • 277 
 
 Erythronium dens-canis 
 
 , • 277 
 
 Eucalyptus globulus, . 
 
 . 278 
 
 Ficus elastica. 
 
 . 280 
 
 Fiornia pulchella. 
 
 . 281 
 
 Gomphrena globosa, . 
 
 . 28s 
 
 GypsophUa saxifraga, . 
 
 ■ ,287 
 
 Ivy screen for the dra 
 
 wing- 
 
 room, with flowers 
 
 at its 
 
 base, 
 
 . 289 
 
 Hoteia (Spiraea) japonic 
 
 a, . 290 
 
 Humea elegans, . 
 
 . 291 
 
 Iris foetidissima (fruits). 
 
 • 294 
 
 Iris stylosa. 
 
 • 295 
 
 Iris sibirica. 
 
 ■ 29s 
 
 Iris iberica, 
 
 29s 
 
 Iris germanica, . 
 
 ■ 29s 
 
 Lachenalia pendula, . 
 
 . 296 
 
 Leucojum sestivum. 
 
 . 298 
 
 Lilium lancifolium, 
 
 Lilium auratum, . 
 
 Lilium superbum, . 
 
 Lilium chalcedonicum, 
 
 Loasa (laterita) tricolor, 
 
 Lophospermum scandens, 
 
 Lycaste Skinnerii, 
 
 Malva crispa, 
 
 Mammillaria sulcolanata, 
 
 Melianthus major. 
 
 Mimosa pudica, . 
 
 Mimulus cupreus, 
 
 Muscari botryoides, 
 
 Muscari monstrosum, . 
 
 Myrsiphyllum asparagoides, 
 
 Hooped-petticoat Narcissus, 
 
 The tobacco-plant (Nicotiana 
 virginica), . 
 
 Odontoglossum Alexandras 
 (plant), .... 
 
 Odontoglossum Alexandrze 
 (flower), . 
 
 Opuntia Rafinesquiana, 
 
 Oxalis valdiviana. 
 
 Phoenix sylvestris as a vase- 
 plant, 
 
 Physalis alkekengi, 
 
 Primula cortusoides, . 
 
 Pteris cretica albo lineata, 
 
 Richardia^ (Calla) aethiopica, 
 
 Sarracenia flava, . 
 
 Schizostylis coccinea, . 
 
 Scilla nutans, 
 
 Scilla sibirica, 
 
 Scolopendrium vulgare, 
 
 Sempervivum canariense, 
 
 Sempervivum urbicum, 
 
 Silene acauUs, 
 
 Sorghum bicolor, ' 
 
 Stapelia hirsuta, . 
 Thunbergia alata, 
 Tricyrtis hirta, 
 Trillium grandiflorum, 
 Triteleia uniflora. 
 
 3c5o 
 300 
 300 
 300 
 301 
 303 
 304 
 306 
 
 307 
 309 
 310 
 
 311 
 312 
 312 
 
 315 
 316 
 
 319 
 321 
 
 321 
 323 
 325 
 
 326 
 328 
 330 
 331 
 334 
 328 
 
 339 
 340 
 340 
 341 
 343 
 343 
 344 
 345 
 347 
 348 
 351 
 351 
 352 
 
XVUl 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Tropseolum Lobbianum, . 353 
 
 Vallota purpurea, . . 354 
 
 Yucca flaccida, . . . 358 
 
 Yucca filamentosa variegata, 359 
 
 Hyacinth-glasses, . . 360 
 
 Hyacinth-glass, . . . 361 
 
 Wood specimen vases, . 361 
 
 Bouquet-holder, . . . 362 
 
 Ivy lattice pot-cover covered 
 
 with imitation ivy, . . 362 
 
 Bouquet-papers, . . . 363 
 
 Hyacinth-glass holders, . 364 
 
 A useful garden-chair, . 365 
 
 Zinc labels, . . . 368 
 
 Stands for ornamental vases 
 
 and flower- pots, . . 370 
 
DOMESTIC FLORICULTURE. 
 
 PART I.— CULTURAL. 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 If there is one thing in nature that adds to the 
 charm and enjoyment of home — that indicates a re- 
 fined taste, and brings the fresh sweetness of country- 
 lanes and flowery meadows to our dwellings in the 
 town — it is a garden or window of beautiful flowers. 
 They diff'use sweetness and brightness in the humblest 
 cottage ; they add grace and beauty to the stately 
 mansions of royalty, and light up the dingy courts of 
 our busy cities with their glowing colours. Flowers 
 were created for all ages, and for all time ; and wher- 
 ever there is room for the breath of heaven and the 
 life-giving rays of the sun to permeate, there will 
 flowers grow and bloom in all their purity and loveli- 
 ness. A home without flowers is bare and comfort- 
 less to all persons of taste and refinement. Even in 
 the country, where we have the song of birds, the 
 soft murmurings of the trees as they whisper lovingly 
 to the cool morning breeze, and the gently winding 
 brook that ripples musically as it sparkles over the 
 
 A 
 
2 CULTURAL. 
 
 stones — even these, attractive though they be, cannot 
 wean us altogether from the garden and the lovely- 
 old sweet-scented flowers we have known and cher- 
 ished from childhood. 
 
 The greatest men of our own time speak respect- 
 fully of flowers and of their culture. Longfellow, 
 Cowper, Keats, Wordsworth, and Wendell Holmes, 
 all speak of beautiful flowers and gardening with 
 admiration and respect. Dickens, who seldom went 
 astray in exposing falsehood, or in his love for the 
 beautiful and true in nature and art, thus speaks of 
 floriculture : " In the culture of flowers there cannot, 
 by their very nature, be anything solitary or exclusive. 
 The wind that blows over the cottage porch, sweeps 
 over the grounds of the nobleman ; and as the rain 
 descends over the just and the unjust, so it communi- 
 cates to all gardeners, both rich and poor, an inter- 
 change of pleasure and enjoyment ; and the gardener 
 of the rich man, in developing or exhancing a fruitful 
 flavour or a delightful scent, is in some sort the gar- 
 dener of everybody else." 
 
 Flowers enter largely into all the different phases 
 of our everyday existence. We weave pearly blossoms 
 in the lustrous tresses of the fair young bride. We 
 carry our finest flowers to our friends ; we place them 
 beside the sick-bed, and we strew them in the cham- 
 ber of death, or lay them in the narrow coffin along 
 with those who " are not lost, but gone before." The 
 more we see and know of flowers, the more we learn 
 to love and cherish them. We admire the wild flowers 
 of our native land ; we search every other country in 
 the world for rare or beautiful plants ; and we grow 
 half the world's wild flowers in our gardens and con- 
 servatories here at home. As a nation attains to a 
 higher state of social refinement, civilisation, and 
 
INTRODUCTION. 3 
 
 good taste, so does this universal love for beautiful 
 flowers increase. Train graceful plants around your 
 dwellings, be it a cottage or a palace. Scatter the 
 seeds of Musk, Mignonette, and Wallflower on every 
 bare inch of soil beside your door, and their sweet 
 fragrance will make you feel a happier man. " Set 
 flowers on your table — a whole nosegay if you can 
 get it, or but two or three, or a single flower, a Rose, 
 a Pink, a Daisy. Bring a few Daisies or Buttercups 
 from your last field work, and keep them alive in a 
 little water ; preserve but a bunch of Clover, or a 
 handful of flowering Grass — one of the most elegant 
 of nature's productions — and you have something on 
 your table that reminds you of God's creation, and 
 gives you a link with the poets that have done it 
 most honour. Put a Rose, or a Lily, or a Violet on 
 your table, and you and Lord Bacon have a custom 
 in common ; for this great and wise man was in the 
 habit of having flowers in season set upon his table, 
 we believe, morning, noon, and night — that is to say, 
 at all meals, seeing that they were growing all day. 
 Now here is a fashion that will last you for ever, if 
 you please — never change with silks, and velvets, and 
 silver forks, nor be dependent on caprice, or some fine 
 gentleman or lady who have nothing but caprice and 
 changes to give them importance and a sensation. 
 Flowers on the morning table are especially suited 
 to them. They look like the happy wakening of the 
 creation ; they bring the breath of nature into your 
 room ; they seem the very representative and em- 
 bodiment of the very smiles of your home, the graces 
 of good morrow." 
 
 So wrote one who must have loved the breath of 
 flowers — the incense of the garden ; while the greatest 
 philosophers of all ages — much as they have dis- 
 
4 CULTURAL. 
 
 agreed on many points — have been unanimous in 
 their reverence for flowers and plants. 
 
 The love for beautiful flowers seems nearly uni- 
 versal. We lay flowers, autumnal leaves, and fruits 
 on the simple altars of our little village churches here 
 at home. The Hindoo strews the gorgeous flowers 
 of Amherstia nobilis, or those of the sacred Lotus, 
 in his stately temples ; while the Mexicans gather the 
 finest and rarest of Orchids from the sheltered slopes 
 of the towering Andes for their various religious rites 
 and ceremonies, as celebrated on the altars of their 
 fathers. All throughout the East, the same love pre- 
 vails for beautiful and sweet-scented flowers, either as 
 religious offerings or domestic ornaments. 
 
 Flowers are beautiful and interesting anywhere, 
 but in the town they acquire additional value, and 
 make our homes doubly attractive. Every one can- 
 not possess the luxury of a garden, in the widest 
 sense of the word ; but all may grow plants and 
 flowers in and around their dwellings. A few years 
 ago, one might have travelled London through, and 
 not have found the pretty window-gardens and bal- 
 conies that may now be seen in Portman Square, 
 Piccadilly, or Park Lane alone. Nor is this increas- 
 ing love for beautiful decorative plants and window- 
 gardens confined to our own country alone ; for the 
 traveller who visits Paris or Northern Germany for 
 the first time cannot fail to notice the rich profusion 
 of Palms, Dracaenas, Cyperuses, Myoporums, Ferns, 
 and delicate Selaginellas with which the windows 
 and apartments are most tastefully decorated. Ivy 
 is also used in abundance for training round the 
 windows and over ornamental wire screens or trel- 
 lises. Dracaenas, Palms, and Ficuses are grown by 
 the thousand in the numerous little nurseries around 
 
INTRODUCTION. 5 
 
 Paris ; and nearly all of them are used for the deco- 
 ration of rooms or windows in the French metropolis. 
 The common Oleander, of which there are now nu- 
 merous beautiful varieties, is largely used for placing 
 outside on balconies, or in front of the cafh during 
 the warm summer weather ; while many plants which 
 are grown in hot plant-stoves here at home, are to 
 be seen growing far more vigorously outside in the 
 Parisian parks and promenades. 
 
 In Germany, Russia, and also in America, the love 
 for beautiful plants and fragrant window -flowers is 
 rapidly increasing; nor is this to be wondered at, 
 since the great charm of window-gardening consists 
 in the immense variety of beautiful effects that may 
 be obtained at a slight cost, even by the use of hardy 
 plants alone. Ivy is common enough everywhere, in 
 hedges, or on old walls, and on the stems of trees ; 
 still, when tastefully arranged in a basket or vase, it 
 forms one of the most elegantly beautiful of all plants 
 used for the decoration of apartments. 
 
 The beginner in plant -culture should commence 
 with common, hardy, robust-constitutioned plants ; 
 and if successful with these (which will assuredly 
 be the case if a real love for plants and flowers 
 prompts their culture), the more valuable and tender 
 kinds may be gradually added as opportunity occurs. 
 One of the greatest mistakes beginners can make in 
 any branch of floriculture is to commence with a 
 whole host of rare and consequently valuable species 
 before they understand the few simple rules necessary 
 to insure successful treatment. I say this because 
 failure at the first is apt to disappoint beginners in 
 floriculture ; not but that experience of this kind is 
 very instructive, and often teaches us far more than 
 can possibly be learned from written directions alone. 
 
6 CULTURAL. 
 
 If you love beautiful flowers, do not allow imaginary- 
 difficulties to deter you from attempting their culture. 
 Many an old country dame who cannot read or write 
 can grow Musk, Mignonette, Chimney Campanulas, 
 Calceolarias, Fuchsias, sweet-scented Verbenas, and 
 Geraniums, in a high state of perfection ; and with the 
 aid of a few other common plants can keep her cottage 
 window gay with flowers all the year round. Indeed 
 the knowledge essential for this kind of work is so 
 easily obtained, that we can only wonder why every 
 window and balcony is not gay with plants and 
 flowers for a considerable portion of the year. Look- 
 ing at the question of window-gardening and floral 
 decorations from a social or aesthetic point of view, 
 it has everything to recommend it to our notice, since 
 the culture of beautiful or interesting plants is a 
 source of pleasure not only to ourselves, but also to 
 our neighbours and friends. By growing flowers in 
 our windows we contribute towards the education and 
 refinement of society at large, — we make our homes 
 in the town not only happier, but more attractive 
 both to ourselves and our children ; and we are often 
 led to form habits of observation and study which 
 ultimately prove of eminent service to us in after- 
 life. Mrs H. Beecher Stowe, the well-known author- 
 ess of ' Uncle Tom's Cabin,' says : " There is nothing 
 better for wives and daughters, physically, than to 
 have the care of a garden — a flower-pot, if nothing 
 more. What is pleasanter than to spend a portion 
 of every day in working among plants, watching their 
 growth, and observing the opening of their flowers, 
 from week to week, as the season advances .' Then, 
 how much it adds to the enjoyment to know that 
 your own hands have planted them, and have pruned 
 aiid trained them ! This is a pleasure that requires 
 
INTRODUCTION. 7 
 
 neither great riches nor profound knowledge. The 
 advantages which woman personally derives from stir- 
 ring the soil and sniffing the morning air, are freshness 
 and beauty of cheek and brightness of eye, cheerful- 
 ness of temper, vigour of mind, and purity of heart." 
 
 Apart from the beauty of flowers and the pleasure 
 all of us experience in cultivating them around our 
 homes, there is the question of health to be con- 
 sidered. Many object to plants in rooms or apart- 
 ments on account of their being presumably un- 
 healthy; but, on the contrary, their influence is, in 
 most cases, exerted for our health and benefit. Plants 
 of peculiar or disagreeable odour, however beautiful, 
 should not be grown in rooms ; but nearly all the 
 flowers we love for their freshness, sweetness, and 
 beauty, may be tolerated. Many persons instinctively 
 dislike certain colours or odours, but these will take 
 care of themselves in the matter. The more we 
 know about that seemingly mysterious product, ozone, 
 the stronger evidence do we obtain that it has much 
 to do with the changes in human health, noticeable 
 in different localities, and at various seasons. Hence 
 the cultivation of many shrubs and plants, besides 
 its economical or aesthetic value, has an agency con- 
 nected with hygiene ; for it has been demonstrated 
 that a great many plants grown in gardens produce 
 much ozone, not only under the influence of the sun's 
 rays, but even after dusk. Lavender, Wallflower, 
 Thyme, Sweet Violets, and Mignonette, may be named 
 as examples. It is highly probable that in years to 
 come some part of our dwellings will be constructed 
 expressly for the culture of plants and flowers. At 
 present we have a few conservatories and gardens 
 on the roof, and in time no doubt those and other 
 appliances will become universal, especially in towns 
 
8 CULTURAL. 
 
 where space is valuable. There are but few houses 
 where a charming Httle fernery might not be con- 
 structed for such plants as will luxuriate in partial 
 shade. If a passage or corridor is terminated by a 
 window from which a gloomy prospect of telegraph 
 wires and blackened chimney-pots is obtained, no- 
 thing can be more appropriate in such a positipn than 
 a large glass case filled with Ferns and other moisture- 
 loving plants. The bottom can be readily cemented 
 to prevent damp, and the whole will form a source of 
 pleasurable interest and beauty instead of annoyance. 
 It will always supply plenty of fresh green fronds and 
 spray for grouping with flowers, and require but little 
 attendance, except occasional syringing with tepid 
 water. Plants are not the exclusive things some 
 people imagine, but may be grown by every one with 
 more or less success in all manner of out-of-the-way 
 places that will readily suggest themselves to those 
 who love and are desirous to grow beautiful flowers. 
 
 GARDENING IN THE HOUSE. 
 
 Room, Window, and Balcony Gardening. — This 
 subject is especially interesting, and there are hap- 
 pily but few refined and cultivated homes of taste 
 where a love for the freshness and beauty of healthy 
 plants does not prompt their culture as pleasing 
 adornments. Few natural objects contribute so much 
 to our enjoyment as plants and flowers when carefully 
 grown and tended by loving hands. The editors of 
 the ' Gardener's Chronicle,' in alluding to this subject, 
 make the following remarks: "The enormous ex- 
 tent to which this fashion has spread, and particularly 
 in and near London, must be patent to the least 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 9 
 
 observant of all observers. Not only are parks, ceme- 
 teries, and churchyards now looking cheerful, when 
 formerly it was difficult to say which of the three had 
 the most melancholy aspect ; not only do East-end 
 and West-end windows now glow with bright colours 
 in streets which used to be notorious for their dingi- 
 ness ; not only do big societies offer prizes for artistic 
 groupings, and little societies encourage the poor in 
 the indoor culture of plants of all kinds suitable for 
 the purpose ; but even the workhouse masters are be- 
 ginning to awake to the cheering influences of plants 
 upon the souls committed to their care. Even the 
 areas of London houses, those gloomy soot-begrimed 
 walls upon which alone the eyes of so many hundreds 
 of servants fall when they look out of their under- 
 ground windows — even these areas are now in many 
 places becoming metamorphosed with the aid of Ivy, 
 Fig, Tropseolum, Jasmine, Virginian Creeper, and 
 many other plants." Especially is this the case in 
 the crowded city where all is bustle and confusion ; 
 and happy indeed are those who have a little patch of 
 garden, and the requisite knowledge to grow a few 
 sweetly-perfumed flowers and decorative plants for 
 the sitting-room window, or drawing-room table, as 
 the case may be. Many cannot avail themselves of 
 the pleasures experienced in a suburban garden ; but 
 all may grow a few plants and flowers in their win- 
 dows or apartments. Many are deterred from at- 
 tempting window-gardening because they imagine it 
 will turn out a continual source of annoyance, instead 
 of a pleasant occupation and amusement. 
 
 In tasteful homes, where there are ladies, the win- 
 dow-gardening may safely be left in their hands ; 
 and it is really astonishing what quick progress the 
 dear, nimble-fingered creatures make in this delight- 
 
10 CULTURAL. 
 
 ful art. Many fail in window-gardening ; but really 
 the whole affair is very simple when a love for beau- 
 tiful flowers exists. It is not enough to buy a few 
 plants in the market, and place them in the window 
 to droop and die. They must be carefully and reg- 
 ularly watered ; and as the love for fresh healthy 
 plants increases, something like a succession must be 
 kept up, so as to secure as much variety as possible : 
 and we must have the window gay every month in 
 the year. We shall endeavour to show in plain lan- 
 guage how this is to be done. 
 
 One of the most fertile causes of failure results from 
 a bad selection ; for we need scarcely inform the 
 reader that all plants will not grow either in rooms or 
 windows. It is always best to avoid such exotics 
 from tropical countries as can only be grown suc- 
 cessfully in a hot plant-stove. These will only dis- 
 appoint and dishearten the beginner in plant-culture ; 
 and it is unnecessary to employ them, since we have 
 the floras of temperate countries to select from, and 
 these include hundreds of hardy or half-hardy shrubs, 
 bulbs, annuals, and herbaceous plants, that will not 
 only exist, but grow vigorously and flower freely in 
 the comparatively temperate atmosphere of an ordi- 
 nary apartment. All lovers of flowers must remember 
 that one blossom allowed to mature or " go to seed," 
 injures the plant more than a dozen buds. Cut your 
 flowers, then, before they begin to fade. Adorn your 
 room with them ; put them on your tables ; send 
 bouquets to your friends who have no flowers, or ex- 
 change favours with those who have. Of course, in 
 the case of annuals, seed must be saved in order to 
 propagate the species ; but they flower all the longer 
 and more profusely if only a limited number of seed- 
 pods is allowed to ripen : and the seed itself is of 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. II 
 
 better quality. Another drawback to the successful 
 culture of plants in rooms is the use of gas as a light- 
 ing agent. The slightest escape, either from the 
 meter or pipes, is sufficient to cause the leaves to 
 droop and fall off prematurely, besides otherwise in- 
 juring their appearance. In all cases where the use 
 of gas cannot be dispensed with, provision should be 
 made for carrying off the fumes as speedily as pos- 
 sible by a thorough system of ventilation. This much 
 is actually essential for our own comfort and con- 
 venience ; and the evil of a polluted and over-heated 
 atmosphere ought to be more generally acknowledged 
 and provided against than is at present the case. If 
 much gas is used, it is as well to content ourselves 
 with a few interesting plants and Ferns, and to give 
 these the protection of a closed or Wardian case. 
 Most plants grow very luxuriantly in these con- 
 trivances, defying both the destructive influence 
 of the gas and aridity and dust. It should be 
 borne in mind that the leakage of pure gas from 
 the pipes is far more destructive to vegetation 
 than the fumes evolved during combustion — that 
 is, if the gas is properly consumed as it leaves the 
 jet or burner. Cold draughts, caused by opening 
 doors and windows simultaneously, must be avoided 
 when possible, though our own personal comfort 
 generally guides us correctly in this matter. The 
 dry atmosphere of ordinary apartments is not the 
 best position for the growth of healthy plants, as the 
 aridity induces excessive evaporation from the foliage. 
 In the greenhouse this can be counteracted by a fre- 
 quent use of the syringe ; and in practice it will be 
 found an excellent plan to carry the plants outside 
 once or twice a-week during the summer months, and 
 either syringe or sprinkle them with a watering-can 
 
12 CULTURAL. 
 
 thoroughly well, so as to remove all dust, insect pests, 
 and other impurities from their foliage. Setting 
 plants outside during warm summer showers is an 
 excellent plan, — none the worse because old-fashioned. 
 Plants grown outside the window, or on the balcony, 
 can, of course, be sprinkled or syringed where they 
 stand. 
 
 In selecting plants for the decoration of our dwell- 
 ings, we are too apt to commence with fully developed 
 specimens, selected either from the greenhouse or 
 plant-stove ; and, as a rule, such plants disappoint us 
 by their gradual decline from health and beauty when 
 brought into cooler and more exposed positions in 
 the house. Plants always suffer more or less when 
 brought suddenly from ^ high temperature into a com- 
 paratively cold and irregular one ; hence, in selecting 
 plants for the decoration of apartments, or the sitting- 
 room window, we should prefer those that have been 
 grown in pots out of doors, or in a temperature as 
 cool as, or even cooler than, that of the room for 
 which we require them. 
 
 It is always best to commence with young plants, 
 either seedlings or rooted cuttings, as these gradually 
 become inured to the fresh conditions in which they 
 are placed, forming sturdy little specimens, full of 
 vigorous health. Most of the pretty little decorative 
 plants brought into the London flower-markets during 
 the summer and autumn months are either seedlings or 
 cuttings grown on in frames or cold pits outside : and 
 these seldom fail to grow well in any ordinary sitting- 
 room window, if properly cared for. Of late years, 
 much improvement has taken place in room and bal- 
 cony gardening, especially in the neighbourhood of 
 London ; and one of the best practical lessons as to 
 the plants suitable for this purpose may be obtained 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 13 
 
 by taking a walk in any of the West-end thorough- 
 fares. Piccadilly and Park Lane generally furnish 
 excellent examples ; while nearly all the plants grown 
 in the Parks during the summer months are also 
 valuable for rooms and balconies. Where balconies 
 do not exist, or their erection is not practicable, the 
 next best thing is a window-box fitted on the sill 
 
 Coiiunon Wooden Window-Box. 
 
 outside. These boxes are made of various materials, 
 and of any size. Those of varnished wood, virgin 
 cork, or- enamelled tiles, are very pretty, and suited 
 
 Zinc Box faced with enamelled tiles. 
 
 to different styles of architecture. These boxes are 
 well adapted for ordinary bedding -plants, hardy 
 climbers, annuals, and hardy and half-hardy bulbs ; 
 
 Zinc Window-Box faced with ornamental tiles. 
 
 but if the culture of exotic Ferns be attempted, a 
 neat glass case can be fixed in place of the simple 
 window-box, and in this many of the hardier kinds 
 
14 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 will luxuriate during summer in all their delicate 
 freshness and beauty. These cases do not cost 
 much, and may be constructed by any ingenious 
 mechanic or artisan, as an embellishment to his 
 home. 
 
 It often happens that the window -gardener is 
 pinched for room, and has to economise the space 
 at his command as much as possible. We here 
 figure one or two useful little con- 
 trivances for suspending plants on 
 walls, either inside or outside the 
 window. They are simple, and can 
 be used wherever there is a bare 
 inch or two of wall to spare ; and 
 it generally happens that there is 
 Bracka Pot. abundance of bare bricks and mortar 
 about towns that would be all the more attractive 
 if draped with Ivy, Creeping Jenny, Tropaeolums, 
 Convolvulus, or any other foliage or flowering plants. 
 The Fern brick is for building in walls at inter- 
 vals for the reception of Ferns and drooping plants. 
 Our illustrations show nice arrange- 
 ments for fixing inside the window, 
 and by which the look-out is con- 
 siderably improved. One consists 
 of a simple window-box faced with 
 enamelled tiles, and furnished with a 
 neat semicircular wire trellis, over 
 which to train climbers. The box is planted with fresh 
 green trailers and a few flowering plants, raised either 
 from bulbs, seeds, or cuttings, as the case may be. 
 A couple of plants of Ivy, Virginian Creeper, or other 
 graceful climbers, are planted at the corners to cover 
 the arch, and a small hanging basket, neatly planted 
 with Creeping Jenny, Sedum Sieboldii, Tradescantia, 
 
 Fern Brick. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 IS 
 
 or Saxifraga sarmentosa, completes the elegant group. 
 In Paris, I noticed many similar arrangements to the 
 
 Window Box (inside), 
 
 above, but Ficus elastica (India-rubber plant), Ole- 
 anders, small Palms, Dracaenas, and other hard-leaved 
 foliage plants, and Ferns, were generally used to fur- 
 nish them. These boxes may be made gay with early- 
 flowering bulbs during the spring months ; and a few 
 seeds of annuals, climbers, and foliage plants, together 
 with Fuchsias, Geraniums, and Balsams, will suffice to 
 keep them gay during the summer and autumn. An 
 aquarium and plant-case combined possesses special 
 attractions to many window-gardeners, as, in addition 
 to the fresh-coloured flowers and foliage, we have the 
 sparkle of the water and the lively motions of its in- 
 mates. These aquaria and plant-cases are made in 
 various forms and materials, to suit different positions. 
 Our figure shows one fixed outside the window, where 
 they are very ornamental during the summer months. 
 
i6 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 They must be removed in winter, however, or the glass 
 would be broken by severe frosts. A better form is 
 
 that shown opposite, 
 which consists of a 
 space for plants at 
 each end, and an 
 aquarium in the cen- 
 tre. These are very 
 interesting room or- 
 naments, if placed on 
 a stand or table near 
 the window; and they 
 can be constructed 
 so as to be readily 
 heated, either by a 
 gas jet or small 
 spirit-lamp. Aquaria 
 are specially valu- 
 able to those who 
 
 Inside view of outside Window-Box And 
 Aquarium combined. 
 
 possess a microscope, as they afford a never-end- 
 ing supply of fre,sh and beautiful objects for study. 
 We have many native plants and animals well 
 worth adding to the indoor plant-case or aquaria ; 
 and some of the delicate Mosses and Ferns will 
 grow better on pieces of sandstone, just elevated 
 above the water's edge, than elsewhere. The rare 
 Killarney Fern (Trichomanes radicans) seems per- 
 fectly at home in such a moist position ; while the 
 Water-Fern (Ceratopteris thalictroides) can scarcely 
 be induced to exist, unless its roots are plunged in 
 the mud below the water's edge. We give a short 
 list of aquatics at the end of this volume, to which 
 reference may be made for further information. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 17 
 
CULTURAL. 
 
 FACILITIES FOR STUDY AFFORDED BY 
 PLANT-CULTURE. 
 
 In some cases even in London and other large 
 towns the amateur cultivator will possess a few yards 
 of garden at the back of the house. If he is so fortu- 
 nate as to possess this, and a real love for beautiful 
 flowers, much may be done towards gratifying his 
 taste in this direction. He may not be able to erect 
 a greenhouse ; but a common garden-frame can be 
 obtained for a few shillings, and with this as the piice 
 de resistance, and the addition of a couple of patent 
 hand-lights, he will get along famously. The great 
 cause of failure in plant-growing, consists in either 
 attempting too much, or in making a bad or unsuit- 
 able selection of plants. If we have no proper con- 
 venience for tropical stove-plants, we must of course 
 boldly reject them in favour of hardy or half-hardy 
 plants, many of which are scarcely less beautiful than 
 the choicest Epiphytes. We cannot grow exotic 
 Orchids, but we can grow plants equally as interesting, 
 and shall obtain much pleasure and healthy recrea- 
 tion for our pains if we go about it in the right way. 
 We have hundreds of plants that will luxuriate in a 
 little town garden, and are by no means limited in our 
 search after variety to suit local circumstances or 
 peculiarities. If the little plot is damp and shady, 
 grow Ferns and other moisture-loving plants. If it is 
 dry and barren as the great desert itself, never mind — 
 it is just the place for a collection of succulents ; and 
 the hotter and brighter the sun smiles down upon 
 them, the fresher and healthier will they smile on 
 your efforts to supply their simple wants. A friend 
 of mine, who is deeply interested in Fungi, finds a 
 
FACILITIES FOR STUDY. 1 9 
 
 garden of forty feet by thirty amply sufficient for his 
 requirements. Here he has a fine collection of plants, 
 and heaps of all kinds of — well, you would in all pro- 
 bability call it rubbish — on which Fungi of all descrip- 
 tions most do congregate. Here he has carried out 
 experiments in cultivating many species not gene- 
 rally used as food ; and during his leisure hours he is 
 ever busily engaged either making notes, or in ex- 
 amining some curious species under the microscope ; 
 while the splendid collection of drawings he has made 
 of the smaller kinds known as blight, rust, and moulds, 
 would delight the heart of any eccentric fungologist. 
 Another, also a microscopist, has constructed a cir- 
 cular tank in his little back yard, eight feet in dia- 
 meter and two feet in depth. Here he grows Water- 
 Lilies, Aponogeton, Anacharis, Frogbit, Lemnas (all 
 the British species), Horse-tails, Starworts, Iris pseudo- 
 acorus, Calla palustris, Richardia sethiopica, Butomus 
 umbellatus, together with a whole host of rare and 
 interesting water-weeds, of which I do not remember 
 the names. The plants are, however, but a part of his 
 collection — the water supplies the means of existence 
 to members of the animal as well as the vegetable 
 world. Here are frogs, lizards, fish, leeches, and 
 water-beetles, in profusion, in addition to hundreds of 
 the lower and even more beautiful forms of animal 
 life ; while every Saturday afternoon's excursion is 
 the means of adding to the interesting little colony. 
 I might relate other examples of what working men 
 and students of nature have done under difficulties, 
 were they not, in all probability, as well known to 
 the reader as to me. Given a real earnest love for 
 gardening, botany, or any other pursuit, and it is per- 
 fectly astonishing what success is achieved under 
 obstacles which to many would have appeared insur- 
 
20 CULTURAL. 
 
 mountable. Window-gardening is attractive, because, 
 happily, there are but few who do not love and admire 
 beautiful flowers ; but it is doubly attractive when 
 made the means of thought and study. We place or 
 suspend an acorn in a wide-mouthed bottle, partly 
 filled with water. What is the result > Watch the 
 little egg-shaped mass for a few days, and you will 
 see it gradually swell until it bursts its glossy brown 
 and leathery coat. Note how the plumule rises from 
 the fleshy cotyledons, and how the roots descend in 
 search of moisture, so essential to vegetable life. It 
 is a simple thing, you may say ; and so it is. Nature 
 is made up of such trifles, and the most simple fact is 
 worth knowing, especially when we remember that 
 every mighty oak was once a little simple acorn, and 
 all have reached their present massive grandeur by 
 slow stages from exactly the same starting-point as 
 our little friend in the glass. Is there no lesson to be 
 learned from a little incident like the germination and 
 growth of an acorn in a phial ? Does it not remind 
 us how the greatest results invariably spring from 
 modest and simple beginnings .' Does it not teach a 
 lesson of patience and humility to us all .■' Watch the 
 delicate green leaves unfold themselves one by one in 
 their little prison-house. It is an oak in miniature, 
 and subject to the same laws as those which govern 
 the stoutest and tallest monarch of the forest, slightly 
 modified, of course, by the peculiar circumstances 
 around it. The only difference there is between them 
 is in proportion or degree, each being alike influenced 
 by light, heat, air, and moisture, the four great essential 
 principles of vegetable life. You don't believe it ? 
 Well, test it for yourself. The leaves are now fresh 
 and green. Why are they green ? Why not yellow 
 or red > They are green because full exposure to the 
 
FACILITIES FOR STUDY. 2i 
 
 light enables them to perform their functions — to 
 
 absorb the same air we breathe ourselves, and to 
 
 develop chlorophyll, or green colouring matter. How 
 
 does it use the air zi breathes ? It retains the carbon 
 
 and returns the oxygen pure, or nearly so, for our use 
 
 and the use of animals in general. It is, then, a 
 
 purifier, an analyser, a life and health promoter, just 
 
 the same as the great oak that has defied the wintry 
 
 blast for centuries. Again, take the glass and place it 
 
 in a dark closet ; or, in other words, deprive it of light. 
 
 Look at it in a week's time. The leaves are pale and 
 
 yellow. How is this ? Why does it look so sickly 
 
 and debilitated .-• Simply because it cannot perform 
 
 its functions without light — cannot live without it, in 
 
 fact, for any great length of time, any more than it 
 
 can live without heat, air, or moisture. The green 
 
 colouring matter is not produced, and the leaves turn 
 
 yellow. We shall try it once more. Hitherto we have 
 
 carefully given it fresh water, with a drop of ammonia 
 
 occasionally, and have noted that it seemed the 
 
 fresher and better afterwards. Now, let us see what 
 
 effect the absence of water or moisture will have upon 
 
 it. There, we empty out the moisture, and place the 
 
 glass again on the chimney-piece. Perhaps you have 
 
 heard gardeners say (in answer to a question of your 
 
 own) that the growth of plants varies according to the 
 
 circumstances or local conditions by which they are 
 
 surrounded .■' Now you will see that our acorn is under 
 
 precisely the same conditions as it was before, with 
 
 one exception — that of moisture. You remember 
 
 how fresh the plant looked an hour ago. Look at it 
 
 now. All the moisture has evaporated from the 
 
 glass, and the leaves of the little oak are no longer 
 
 fresh and spreading. They do not droop much as yet ; 
 
 but it is evident that they are shrivelling up fast ; and 
 
22 CULTURAL. 
 
 when we feel them they rustle like brown ,paper. 
 This is owing to the absence of moisture, without 
 which vegetable organisms cannot possibly exist. 
 But how are we to account for the absence of moisture 
 from the tissues of the leaves that looked so plump 
 and vigorous an hour ago ? Simply enough. The 
 plant being surrounded by a dry, arid atmosphere, 
 increased by its close proximity to the fire, has lost 
 its moisture by evaporation or excessive transpiration. 
 We cannot see the moisture escape ; but still we know 
 how to collect it in quantities sufficient for all prac- 
 tical purposes of measurement and calculation. Take 
 half-a-dozen leaves of any sort — large fresh leaves are 
 best ; but let them be quite free from extraneous 
 moisture. Now, take a common glass tumbler, and 
 carefully dry it before the fire until you are quite 
 satisfied there is no moisture inside. Place your 
 leaves beneath the glass on a smooth board, or a fiat 
 stone slightly heated before the fire. In about an 
 hour or two your leaves will shrivel or droop languidly 
 — a sure sign that moisture has escaped from them 
 by evaporation ; but in this case we know it other- 
 wise, for we can now see it condensed inside the 
 tumbler. Now we know how it is our cuttings shrivel, 
 and why the cut foliage and flowers with which we 
 ornament our rooms so soon droop and fade. It is the 
 absence of moisture ; or, in other words, the aridity of 
 the atmosphere surrounding them which sucks the 
 moisture out of their tissues, and leaves them limp and 
 lifeless. Hence we see why plants droop when short 
 of moisture. In the case of healthy well-rooted plants 
 this constant loss by transpiration (which takes place 
 most rapidly in the day-time, when they are exposed 
 to the hot sun) is seldom noticeable, because its effects 
 are counterbalanced by the supply taken up by the 
 
FACILITIES FOR STUDY. 23 
 
 spoiigioles, or extreme tips or feeders of the roots, 
 and hence absorbed throughout the vascular and 
 cellular tissues of the entire plant. This absorption 
 and diffusion of moisture takes place much more 
 rapidly than is generally supposed. 
 
 Evaporation or transpiration takes place much less 
 rapidly in a moist or humid atmospitiere ; hence we 
 place our bouquets and cut flowers on a bed of damp 
 moss beneath a bell-glass or crystal shade when we 
 wish to preserve them as long as possible. This is the 
 reason why we place delicate cuttings in a close case 
 and syringe them every few hours ; and it is the same 
 reason that induces the gardener to throw water over 
 the stages and floors of his hothouses during the 
 hottest days of summer. 
 
 If the reader has had the patience and perseverance 
 to follow me thus far, he (or she) must feel deeply 
 interested in plant-lore— must love flowers for their 
 beauty and sweetness, and attend to their wants with 
 a tender and thoughtful hand. To all such I most 
 heartily recommend a work that will not fail to please 
 and instruct them — the work of a great mind — a mind 
 that had learned to read the open pages of nature's 
 great book, and to translate it for others less favoured, 
 I allude to 'A Tour Round my Garden,' by Al- 
 phonse Karr, of- which I believe there is an English 
 translation by the Rev. J. G. Wood, a well-known and 
 very eminent naturalist. In recommending this inter- 
 esting work to all true naturalists, I beg to state that 
 I am influenced by no interested motives ; indeed I 
 do not even know the names of the English publishers : 
 but I feel sure it will direct all lovers of nature into 
 pleasant fields of study and research, and prove a 
 delightful companion in many a country ramble. It 
 will also illustrate how a small garden may be made 
 
24 CULTURAL. 
 
 a mine of golden happiness and contentment when 
 cultivated and studied for itself alone. 
 
 This is not the proper place for lessons in botany ; 
 but if the reader is interested in the subject, I can 
 recommend the use of Master's ' Botany for Beginners.' 
 or Oliver's ' Elementary Botany,' both of which teach 
 this fascinating science in a popular and pleasing 
 manner, without diverging in any way from the truth 
 which is science. 
 
 PROPAGATION. 
 
 This is a subject of deep interest to most window- 
 gardeners, since much of the pleasure of gardening in 
 all its branches consists in being able to multiply and 
 cultivate our own plants. In some cases plants may 
 be bought .for less than it costs to grow them our- 
 selves ; but that is not the argument. Few window- 
 gardeners grow plants for profit — indeed many of us 
 never grudge a few shillings at any time for plants, 
 seeds, or cuttings. Still we often prefer to grow our 
 own plants, simply for the pleasure and experience we 
 obtain in so doing. To read the mysteries of germina- 
 tion is nothing to many of us ; but to watch the actual 
 process itself is often a great pleasure, while actual ex- 
 perience is far better than poring over a dull and ver- 
 bose treatise on the subject. Many people are deterred 
 from propagating their own plants by cuttings, or even 
 raising them from seeds, simply on account of the nu- 
 merous imaginary difficulties which present themselves. 
 We shall now give such instructions as will enable any 
 one with a real love for beautiful flowers to astonish 
 themselves, and perhaps their neighbours too, in the 
 propagation of window and balcony plants. 
 
 Propagation by Seeds. — This is nature's great plan 
 
PROPAGATION. 25 
 
 of reproduction in the vegetable world ; and the old 
 dame sows most of her seeds as soon as they are ripe, 
 at the same time giving them the protection of the 
 falling leaves of autumn, which eventually act as 
 manure to the seedling plants. Multiplication by 
 seeds is simple, and is generally adopted in the case 
 of hardy herbaceous and border plants, and always 
 in the case of annuals or such plants as spring from 
 seed, grow, flower, and perfect seed in their turn 
 within the same year. Mignonette, Asters, French 
 Marigolds, Balsams, and many other beautiful plants, 
 belong to this class. Biennial plants, or such as 
 are sown one year and flower the next, are also 
 for the most part raised in this manner. Nearly all 
 the new varieties of our common flowers and fruits 
 have been raised from seeds, — some intentionally, 
 others by chance or accident. Variegated plants are 
 often originated or rather perpetuated from accidental 
 variations called " sports ;" and many beautiful varie- 
 ties of flowering plants, especially Camellias, Azaleas, 
 Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums, are merely 
 "sports" perpetuated either by cuttings or grafts. 
 Some varieties always come true from seed — i.e., like 
 their respective seed-bearing parents — while others 
 vary to a great extent, both in size, colour, time of 
 blooming, and constitutional vigour. Many hardy 
 border or herbaceous plants are propagated from 
 seeds sown in the autumn {see list) or spring months 
 in the open borders. If the plants are to remain 
 where sown, dibble the seeds in and carefully thin 
 out the plants to prevent their crowding. For many 
 plants it is best to sow in beds of light pulverised 
 earth, carefully raking them in at the same time. In 
 this case the seedlings are more easily protected 
 during bad or unfavourable weather, and when suffi- 
 
26 CULTURAL. 
 
 ciently strong they can be pricked out or potted off 
 as the case may be. Half-hardy plants are best 
 raised from spring-sown seeds. These may be scat- 
 tered in pots or shallow boxes either in a sunny 
 window or in a greenhouse or frame. Hardy and 
 half-hardy annuals are best sown in boxes of light 
 earth during March, and they may be pricked off into 
 other boxes when they become too thick. Grown in 
 this way they are nice little plants for setting outside 
 in May or June, after the frosts are over, or for window- 
 culture when grown in pots. Some annuals bloom 
 earlier and better when sown in autumn {see list). 
 
 Preparation of Seed Pots, Boxes, and Pans. — Clean 
 your pots or pans and dry -them thoroughly. Now 
 take some pieces of crocks {i.e., broken flower-pots), 
 and placing a large convex piece over the hole at the 
 bottom, fill the pot half full of smaller pieces ; over 
 these place a thin layer of turf or moss, to prevent 
 the soil from washing down in among the drainage. 
 Fill the pot nearly level full of soil prepared as 
 follows : Take a spadeful of good sweet garden soil 
 or loam, half a spadeful of either white or yellow 
 river sand, and a spadeful of leaf-mould — i.e., thor- 
 oughly rotten leaves. Mix these well together, and 
 fill the pots as above recommended. Do not press the 
 soil too firmly, especially if it is very moist, or it will 
 set hard and dry in a solid mass. Smooth the surface 
 by pressing it gently with a circular bit of board made 
 for the purpose, with a nail or screw in the middle to 
 serve as a handle. Now sow your seeds, scattering 
 them equally over the surface, after which sprinkle 
 a little fine sandy soil over them. The depth at 
 which the seeds are buried depends on their size and 
 strength of constitution. Very fine seeds, as Primula 
 or Calceolaria, are best not covered at all, a sheet of 
 
PROPAGATION. 2/ 
 
 tiffany or brown paper being placed over them until 
 they germinate, when it must be removed and a plate 
 of window-glass substituted, to give them all the light 
 they require. Strong-growing kinds, as French Mari- 
 golds, Sweet Peas, or Convolvulus, may be covered 
 two or three inches deep without injury, though such 
 a depth is not necessary. If a box is used, bore holes 
 in the bottom to allow all superfluous water to escape 
 freely. Water before sowing, sprinkling when neces- 
 sary with moderately moist soil. With small seeds it 
 is impossible to water after sowing without disarrang- 
 ing them. In the case of tender seeds, a depth of from 
 a half to three quarters of an inch should be left 
 between the soil and the top of the pot. This will 
 allow of the pots being covered with a plate of 
 ordinary window-glass, a simple contrivance which 
 greatly assists the cultivation by keeping them a few 
 degrees warmer, and also preventing the soil from 
 drying too rapidly by evaporation. As the seeds 
 germinate the glass must be tilted with a bit of stick, 
 or the plants may damp off through being in an 
 atmosphere too close and humid. The above simple 
 contrivance answers the purpose of a bell-glass until 
 the seedlings attain a considerable size. 
 
 Propagation by Cuttings. -^T\\\s is a simple though 
 artificial method, and answers well for a large propor- 
 tion of the perennial plants grown in balconies and 
 apartments. What are technically known to gardeners 
 as "soft-wooded" plants are very easily "struck" from 
 cuttings of the stems or branches. To this class Ger- 
 aniums (Pelargoniums), Chrysanthemums, Lobelias, 
 Coleus, Fuchsias, and other plants of similar texture 
 belong. " Hard-wooded " plants, as Camellias, Aza- 
 leas, Ericas (Heaths), and Epacris are much more dif- 
 ficult, at least to an ordinary window-cultivator. 
 
28 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 Nearly all cuttings are prepared in a similar manner. 
 A young shoot is selected an inch or two in length, 
 and its axis is severed just below a joint ; a few of the 
 lower leaves are also removed out of the way, using 
 for the purpose a keen blade that will sever the tissues 
 without bruising them. The length of a cutting de- 
 pends on the habit of the plant and the time of the 
 year. For example, we will take the common India- 
 rubber plant (Ficus elastica). In the spring young 
 branches a foot or more in length may be taken from 
 an old plant headed down the previous year. These 
 strike readily, either in a Wardian case, under a com- 
 mon hand-light, or in a pot covered with a bell-glass, 
 so as to prevent excessive evaporation. In the 
 autumn, however, it is difficult to root such large 
 pieces, as they have a tendency to damp off ; but eyes 
 — 2.^., single joints cutfrom an old stem,and just bedded 
 in light soil, with a gentle bottom-heat — root freely, and 
 make nice plants the succeeding summer. A year or 
 two ago, Mr Peter Barr, who is well known to horti- 
 culturists as one of our most enthusiastic window- 
 gardeners, invented a neat little propagating case, 
 heated with an oil or spirit 
 lamp, and which we have found 
 
 t, -=—--= » ^ [m ijj i very useful, not only in striking 
 
 I ' HJ all kinds of tender cuttings, but 
 
 also in raising seedlings, or for 
 preserving tender plants in the 
 window during the severest 
 winter months. Several of our 
 acquaintances have also spoken 
 very highly of this ingenious 
 contrivance, which cannot be surpassed for cleanliness 
 and economy, while the first cost is amply repaid by the 
 pleasure we experience in being able to propagate the 
 
 Heated Case. 
 
PROPAGATION. 
 
 29 
 
 most beautiful tropical plants either from seeds, cut- 
 tings, or by grafting. The accompanying sectional 
 figure shows every- 
 thing connected with 
 it quite plainly, and 
 saves us the necessity 
 of describing it in every 
 particular. In some 
 cases, especially during 
 summer, the layer of 
 spent tanners' bark or 
 cocoa-nut fibre should ^ . ^ ,, ^ ^ 
 
 , ^, . , , , , Election of Heated Case. 
 
 be thicker, and then the 
 
 pots, can be plunged up to the rim. In one of these cases 
 the amateur may propagate hundreds of ornamental 
 decorative plants, and more especially such plants as 
 Coleus, Alternanthera, Lobelia, Fuchsias, Veronicas, 
 Pentstemons, Helichrysums, Chrysanthemums, Cu- 
 pheas, Calceolarias, Primulas, Cyclamens, Begonias, 
 and others too numerous to mention. The amateur 
 will find it best, as a general rule, to strike all his 
 cuttings in the spring, or as early in the summer as pos- 
 sible ; they then become thoroughly rooted and estab- 
 lished before the dull damp winter season approaches, 
 a period generally fatal to plants not well rooted. 
 Bedding Geraniums, Calceolarias, and Centaurea rag- 
 usina and C. gymnocarpa, are best struck during July 
 or early in August. A warm sunny spot on a south 
 border should be selected, and the cuttings inserted 
 about an inch deep in rows. If there is not the 
 convenience of a border, boxes of soil placed on the 
 balcony or outside a window exposed to the sun do 
 just as well. Give them a good watering to settle 
 the soil around them, and shade them from bright 
 sunshine for the first week or two, after which they 
 
30 CULTURAL. 
 
 may be fully exposed. By the beginning of October 
 they will be well rooted, and must be potted off in 
 small pots for removal indoors. This is a far better 
 plan than coddling them in the window beneath bell- 
 glasses ; and we have more room and appliances at 
 hand for more tender plants that actually require 
 them. Cutting pots or pans are prepared as recom- 
 mended for seed-pots, with the addition of a thin 
 layer of white sand for tender species. It is advisable 
 to use this when the cuttings are struck in the Wardian 
 case or window, as the sand gives a neat and tidy 
 appearance to the surface. Many plants, as Begonias, 
 Gloxinias, Hoyas, Melastomas, and Bertolonias, may 
 be struck from well-developed leaves inserted in sand 
 like cuttings. Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Crassulas, Cu- 
 pheas, fancy Pelargoniums, Cobseas, Cissus antarctica, 
 Myrsiphyllum, Ficus repens, and many other win- 
 dow and balcony plants, strike freely from the young 
 shoots emitted from branches of the preceding year. 
 In some cases the young wood of the current year 
 roots best; if these damp off, however, try again, 
 leaving a heel of the preceding year's wood at the 
 base of each. A little practical experience will soon 
 render the amateur cultivator expert in raising plants 
 from cuttings. Escallonias, Aucubas, and most other 
 evergreen shrubs, may be propagated by means of 
 layers or cuttings, made of the young wood, put in 
 during the spring; but the layers are perhaps best 
 if a small number only is required. Tamarisk and 
 Veronicas strike from cuttings nearly as freely as 
 Willows, and may be inserted in a shady position any 
 time during the summer months. As regards planting 
 out evergreens, some recommend September as the 
 best time to perform the operation ; but we believe, 
 with care, they may be planted at all times of the year. 
 Propagation by Layers. — This is a safe method, and 
 
PROPAGATION. 3 1 
 
 is very simple in practice ; it being specially applicable 
 to many climbing plants and shrubs, as Ivy, Ampe- 
 lopsis. Wistaria, and many others. To propagate by 
 layers, a young branch near the ground is bent down, 
 the bark on its under side being either removed or 
 slit with a sharp-pointed knife. It is now buried in 
 the earth, being secured firmly in its place by a wooden 
 peg or other simple contrivance. Here it can remain 
 until thoroughly rooted, after which it may be removed 
 and planted elsewhere. Carnations and Picotees are 
 frequently propagated in this way, the stem being 
 slit half-way through at a joint, and firmly secured 
 with a bent twig of willow or a small peg, after which 
 it is covered with soil. Some plants are difficult to 
 propagate otherwise than by this system ; Lapageria 
 and Chimonanthus being familiar examples. 
 
 Propagation by Division. — This is exceedingly 
 simple, and applicable to a vast number of hardy 
 herbaceous plants, Ferns, and bulbs. In the case of 
 perennials, the clumps or masses are either separated 
 by the fingers, or cut with a spade and replanted 
 where they may be required. Masses of Lilies, Snow- 
 drops, Crocus, Narcissus, and Squills (Scilla), are 
 simply pulled to pieces, and either replanted or potted 
 for window and balcony decoration. 
 
 Budding and Grafting. — These systems of propa- 
 gating are so rarely required by the window-gardener, 
 that it is next to useless my describing them here. 
 Should the amateur wish to extend his knowledge, I 
 can refer him to Charles Baltet's work, ' Art of Graft- 
 ing,' as the best. 
 
 The proper time to procure Cuttings, Bulbs, and Roots. 
 — As a general rule, it will be found that cuttings 
 strike root more freely during the spring or early 
 summer months than at any other time. The pro- 
 fessional horticulturist, who has abundant means at 
 
32 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 his disposal, pays but little attention to this rule ; but 
 the amateur, with limited appliances, will find that 
 cuttings, which root freely during the bright sunny 
 days of spring, only damp ofif and decay as the days 
 are on the wane. Most plants start into growth 
 during the early part of the year with renewed vigour 
 and increased vitality; while, during the damp and 
 foggy days of autumn and winter, vegetation is more 
 sluggish, and, in many cases, is nearly suspended 
 altogether. Amateurs are often at a loss how to 
 obtain cuttings ; but they are frequently advertised in 
 horticultural periodicals during the spring and sum- 
 mer months at a trifling cost, as compared with the 
 prices asked for established plants. Nearly all the 
 new and attractive varieties of Fuchsias, Pentstemons, 
 Antirrhinums, Geraniums, Chrysanthemums, and other 
 soft-wooded plants which strike freely, may be ob- 
 tained in this way. The following list of cuttings and 
 the times to obtain theni, may be useful to some of 
 our readers : — 
 
 
 From 
 
 
 From 
 
 Antirrhinums 
 
 March to Sept. 
 
 Pentstemons 
 
 March to Sept. 
 
 Aralias 
 
 ■ t M 
 
 Petunias 
 
 , , to June. 
 
 Bouvardias 
 
 H 11 
 
 Pinks . 
 
 June to Aug. 
 
 Bedding Plants 
 
 Feb. to Oct. 
 
 Picotees 
 
 II 
 
 Begonias . 
 
 March to Sept. 
 
 Phlox . 
 
 March to Sept. 
 
 Calceolarias 
 
 It M 
 
 Solanums . 
 
 Feb. to April. 
 
 Carnations . 
 
 June to Aug. 
 
 Tropaaolums 
 
 M II 
 
 Cinerarias . 
 
 >> 1. 
 
 Variegated Ivies 
 
 II II 
 
 Coleus 
 
 . March to Sept. 
 
 Verbenas 
 
 11 
 
 Centaureas 
 
 , , to Aug, 
 
 Veronicas 
 
 • 
 
 Chrysanthemums 
 
 Feb. to May. 
 
 Violets 
 
 II 
 
 Dahlias 
 
 ,, to June. 
 March to June. 
 
 
 
 Dracaenas . 
 
 MiSCELl 
 
 ANEOUS. 
 
 Fuchsias 
 
 ' ,, to Sept. 
 
 Dutch Bulbs 
 
 Sept. to Dec. 
 
 Geraniums . 
 
 i» ti 
 
 Herbaceous Plan! 
 
 s 1, to March. 
 
 Heliotropes 
 
 ,1 II 
 
 Flower-Seeds 
 
 1 , to Jan. 
 
 Lantanas . 
 
 II i> 
 
 Hardy Bulbs anc 
 
 1 
 
 Pansies 
 
 May to Sept. 
 
 Orchids . 
 
 ,, to May. 
 
 Pelargoniums 
 
 March to Sept. 
 
 Evergreen Shrubs 
 
 
SOILS AND STIMULANTS. 33 
 
 SOIL FOR POTTING. 
 
 One of the most common and fatal errors into which 
 the inexperienced fall, is that of making choice of inert 
 and finely pulverised soil for potting. This and in- 
 sufficient drainage are more disastrous to pot-plants 
 than any other two points of culture that can be 
 named. To pot plants in common garden-soil which 
 is generally destitute of fibry matter, and at the same 
 time to neglect thorough drainage, is the shortest and 
 surest way of reducing a plant, however hardy and 
 vigorous, to a state of inaction and premature decline. 
 Such soil is destitute to a great extent of what forms 
 the food of plants. Were this its only fault, it might 
 be remedied by the application of stimulants in a 
 liquid form ; but the principal want or error lies in 
 its mechanical condition being at variance with the 
 requirements of a healthy pot-plant. What is re- 
 quired is organic or turfy matter, which in its gradual 
 decomposition affords food to the plant, and at the 
 same time forms a root medium, which freely admits 
 the wholesome influence of the atmosphere, and has 
 the power of absorbing therefrom the essential gases 
 so necessary to the wellbeing of plant-life. A plant 
 potted in finely pulverised soil, or rather dust, entirely 
 destitute of fibre particles, finds itself, especially after 
 frequent waterings, in a close hardened medium. If 
 young roots are ever formed in a healthy condition, 
 they are most difficult to be kept alive, if that be at 
 all possible under such circumstances. Such a body 
 of soil, especially if watered with water in which there 
 is a sediment, soon becomes solid, and no tender plant 
 can thrive in it. The soil most suitable for the growth 
 of plants in pots should contain a large proportion of 
 
 C 
 
34 CULTURAL. 
 
 decomposing fibry matter, such as the roots and herb- 
 age which are common to the surface of old pastures. 
 The fibry matter which such soil contains not only 
 presents in its gradual decomposition the constituent 
 elements which form the chief food of plants, but pre- 
 vents at the same time the soil from becoming com- 
 pressed and soured. Such soil should be chopped up 
 or teased with the hand without removing the fibre. 
 Sifting should never be had recourse to, except when 
 it is to be used for potting young things into very 
 small pots ; and even then, instead of separating the 
 fibre from the mineral or earthy components, it is 
 preferable to beat or pulverise the whole until it is 
 fine enough for your purpose. These remarks apply 
 to both peat and loam, and should always be borne 
 in mind when preparing soils for potting. 
 
 Loam. — This is rather a comprehensive term, and 
 one that is differently interpreted by different people. 
 Brickmakers' " loam " is a peculiar greasy or unctu- 
 ous kind of clay, about as unfit for our purpose as 
 could well be imagined. A foundryman or core- 
 maker's idea of loam is a mixture of soft yellow sand 
 and horse-dung, and of no use to us for plant-culture. 
 Gardeners' loam is nothing more nor less than ordi- 
 nary soil or turf from either commons, roadsides, or 
 pastures, and varies greatly in its excellence for plant- 
 culture. We have several different varieties, as " turfy 
 or fibrous loam," the best of which is obtained from 
 upland pastures or sheep-walks, and consists of a 
 friable yellowish or nut-coloured earth, rich in vege- 
 table fibre. This, when cut in turves about three inches 
 thick, and laid in heaps for a month or two to dry, is 
 very valuable for growing all kinds of plants. Sandy 
 loam is obtained from gravelly districts, or from the 
 face of the sandstone rock, in many parts of the coun- 
 
SOILS AND STIMULANTS. 35 
 
 try. It contains more sand, and generally less fibre, 
 than "fibrous loam." Sandy loam of good quality 
 may frequently be met with by the sides of roads 
 and on waste commons. Loam that is too sandy, or 
 loam wet and unctuous like clay (soft yellow loam), 
 is not so good for plants as those we have named, 
 more especially the former kind. If possible, procure 
 a barrow-load or two of good fibrous loam, and stack 
 it up to dry in any outhouse or shed where it will 
 always be handy for use. 
 
 Peat. — This is black or dark-brown heath soil, from 
 moors and commons, and is highly prized by culti- 
 vators, when of good quality and rich in vegetable 
 fibre. It is much more open and lighter than loam, 
 but, like it, often contains a large proportion of sand. 
 This is, however, rather an advantage than otherwise, 
 since it is always added, if not naturally present. 
 Peat is very useful for mixing along with loam, and 
 renders the compost to which it is added both richer 
 and lighter. Peat- earth is very nutritious to vege- 
 table life when of good quality, and is mainly com- 
 posed of pure vegetable fibre or organic matter, in 
 different stages of decay, together with a slight ad- 
 mixture of other earthy substances. Peat should be 
 stacked up under cover, as it is very absorbent, and 
 soon becomes too wet for immediate use, if left out- 
 side in heavy rains. 
 
 Leaf-mould. — This is one of the most valuable of 
 all compost materials in the hands of a cultivator, 
 and consists, when pure, of thoroughly decomposed 
 leaves. Most gardeners rake up the fallen leaves 
 during the autumn months, and, throwing them into 
 heaps, cover them with a thin layer of earth, to pre- 
 vent their being blown about by the winds. Others 
 bury them ; but in both cases they remain until thor- 
 
36 CULTURAL. 
 
 oughly rotten before they are fit for use. Leaf-soil 
 is one of the most stimulating of all composts for soft- 
 wooded plants and annuals, when mixed with fibrous 
 loam and peat, with the addition of well-washed sand. 
 If leaves cannot be collected and buried, it may be 
 bought by the bag from any respectable nurseryman 
 or florist. Leaf-mould is largely used in Belgian 
 nurseries for nearly all kinds of plants, in place of 
 peat, so largely used here at home. 
 
 Sand. — There are two sorts used by horticultur- 
 ists — yellow river, or road sand, and the ordinary 
 white sand. This material is largely used by plant- 
 growers for the purpose of keeping the particles of 
 soil separate, or free and open, as gardeners express 
 it. Sharp, clean, road sand, when well washed, is 
 equal to white for plant-culture, and is also cheaper. 
 Very fine sand is not so beneficial, as it allows the 
 compost to clog too much, instead of answering the 
 purpose for which it is intended. Sand should always 
 be carefully cleaned by washing before it is used. 
 If sand is good and clean, it will not discolour the 
 water in which it is placed. Sand that contains lime 
 renders the water milky, while that which contains 
 iron is generally red in colour, and very heavy. 
 Neither should be used, if clean and pure sand is 
 obtainable. 
 
 Sphagnum Moss. — This material may be classed 
 with the soils or composts, and is very useful in the 
 culture of Droseras, Cephalotus, Darlingtonia, Sarra- 
 cenia, and Ferns in the Wardian case, or under a 
 shade or bell-glass. It is also useful for filling wicker- 
 baskets in which Roses, Lilies, and other flowers are 
 arranged ; or for filling vases or hanging earthenware 
 pans, in which Ivy, Dioscorea, Crocus bulbs, or half- 
 hardy Selaginellas, as S. Kraussiana (S. hortensis), 
 
SOILS AND STIMULANTS. 37 
 
 S. helvetica, S. variegata, Lycopodium dendroideum, 
 and many other sub -aquatics and moisture- loving 
 plants, may be cultivated with great success. In 
 many districts, especially in Yorkshire, Lancashire, 
 and in Scotland, this is abundant in every glen or 
 bog. In some of the Yorkshire " gills " it forms moist 
 carpets on beds of spongy peat, and affords nourish- 
 ment to many interesting little sub-alpine plants. 
 Living sphagnum, and lumps of fibrous peat, with 
 the addition of a little coarse well-washed sand, is 
 an excellent compost for Dionseas, Droseras, Cepha- 
 lotus, and many of the Ferns and scandent or ram- 
 bling Selaginellas. 
 
 This moss is an excellent substance with which to 
 cover any bare spaces at the bottom of a Wardian 
 case, and should be kept continually moist, so as to 
 encourage it to grow freely. Spread over the bottom 
 of the propagating case, it will keep the atmosphere 
 in a genial state of humidity, and should be sprinkled 
 with tepid water every morning or evening. For lin- 
 ing the bottoms of hanging baskets it is just the thing ; 
 and it is unrivalled for placing over the crocks in 
 flower-pots, where it prevents the compost from wash- 
 ing down and clogging the drainage. 
 
 Decayed Manure. — This substance properly belongs 
 to the succeeding chapter ; but as it is generally used 
 in combination with soils in potting, I include it here. 
 Decayed hotbed manure is very useful for mixing 
 along with loam and sand for many gross -feeding 
 plants, as Chrysanthemums, Lophospernums, Orna- 
 mental Gourds, Maize, Fuchsias, and strong-growing 
 annuals. It is best when thoroughly decomposed, 
 so that it crumbles in the hand like rich black mould 
 when dry. 
 
 In country districts, all the above materials may 
 
38 CULTURAL. 
 
 be readily obtained ; in large towns, however, it is 
 more difficult ; but small quantities may be obtained, 
 either from the decorative and furnishing florists or 
 from any jobbing gardener. 
 
 Even in London, soil for potting, ready mixed, can 
 be bought at prices varying from a shilling to three 
 shillings per bushel, from many of the first-class de- 
 corative or furnishing florists and nurserymen. 
 
 MANURES OR STIMULANTS. 
 
 Fertilisers are of great service to the window-gar- 
 dener, just as they are also useful in gardens and 
 plant-houses on a large scale. One of the best of 
 dry fertilisers for all kinds of window-plants (except 
 Ferns and succulent plants, neither of which should 
 have manure in any form, except leaf-mould) is pure 
 bone-dust, mixed with the lime easily obtainable 
 from a few oyster-shells calcined in the kitchen-fire. 
 This may either be mixed with the compost used in 
 potting, or sprinkled on the surface of such pots as 
 are known to be full of hungry roots. Bone-dust and 
 lime may also be mixed with soft water in a pail or 
 small tub, and the liquid used after it has settled. If 
 it is required a little stronger, put in just a small tea- 
 cupful of guano — not a bit more, unless for gross-feed- 
 ing plants, as Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, Ornamental 
 Gourds, Ivy, and other strong - growing climbers. 
 Guano-water alone makes a good stimulant, but is 
 better still with the addition of a shovelful of either 
 fresh cow-dung or sheep-droppings. In towns where 
 fresh animal manures cannot be readily obtained, there 
 is no better or more pleasant fertiliser than Standen's 
 Gardeners' Manure, which is sold by all florists in 
 
POTTING PLANTS. 39 
 
 sealed canisters. This is as clean as bone-dust, and 
 even more stimulating as a manure. It can either be 
 used dry or mixed with water. I prefer to use it in 
 solution — as, when sprinkled on the surface of the pots, 
 I have found it subject to a mouldy-looking fungoid 
 growth. Ammonia used in solution, half an ounce to 
 two gallons of rain-water, is one of the best and clean- 
 est of all fluid stimulants. Ammonia is contained in 
 rain-water, and contributes much to the fresh green 
 appearance assumed by vegetation after refreshing 
 showers in summer. 
 
 Many persons object to fresh animal manures on 
 account of their effluvia ; but if two or three handfuls 
 of pulverised charcoal be thrown into the vessel, it 
 will be found an effectual deodoriser or disinfectant. 
 Weak glue-water or size is an excellent stimulant for 
 pot-plants. Powdered charcoal may be mixed with 
 the composts used in potting with excellent effect. 
 Tobacco-water is one of the finest of all stimulants, 
 and is nearly as disagreeable to worms in the soil as 
 a solution of lime. 
 
 POTS AND POTTING. 
 
 There is nothing difficult in potting plants ; and if 
 you feel a little nervous at first, a very little practical 
 experience will serve to dispel your misgivings on this 
 subject. The best pots are those commonly made of 
 burnt clay or earthenware, — that is, plants grow better 
 in them than in the fancy enamelled kinds ; but we 
 have now very elegant designs in terra cotta or Etrus- 
 can ware, in which plants will luxuriate, and they 
 have a neater appearance in the drawing or sitting 
 room window. In practice, I have always grown my 
 
40 CULTURAL. 
 
 decorative plants in ordinary flower-pots ; and on re- 
 moving them for decoration, it is a simple matter to 
 place your hand over the surface of the soil and turn 
 the plant out of its pot, having an ornamental pot of 
 exactly the same size to replace it. In changing pots 
 in this way, be careful to shake or tap the soil down 
 firmly into the clean pot ; for if it is a trifle too large, 
 or there is a cavity between the ball of earth and the 
 sides of the pot, the water is sure to pass down the 
 outside, instead of soaking through the ball, and your 
 plant will soon suffer from drought. If flower-pots 
 are required in quantity — that is, by the thousand — 
 it will be best to obtain them direct from the manu- 
 factory. If, however, only a few are required, they 
 may be obtained from any furnishing florist, or from 
 the crockery-shops. Pots made by different makers 
 often vary slightly from the following standard list 
 in size, and from each other both in size and quality. 
 A good flower-pot is neat in shape, perfectly sym- 
 metrical, not cracked or over-burnt, light, and porous. 
 At many paltry little crock -shops "wastrels" only 
 are bought — that is, pots which are either cracked, 
 over-burnt, or bulged out round the sides, or those 
 which do not stand perfectly level ; all these should of 
 course be rejected. 
 
 
 
 
 Number in 
 
 
 
 Name. 
 
 
 "cast" or 
 
 Width. 
 
 Depth. 
 
 
 
 
 "lead." 
 
 
 
 Twos, 
 
 or i8-inch. 
 
 2 
 
 18 inches. 
 
 14 inches 
 
 Fours, 
 
 II IS 
 
 ii 
 
 4 
 
 IS II 
 
 13 II 
 
 Sixes, 
 
 II 13 
 
 II 
 
 6 
 
 13 II 
 
 12 II 
 
 Eights, 
 
 If 12 
 
 II 
 
 8 
 
 12 II 
 
 II II 
 
 Twelves, 
 
 M 11 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 iiM .1 
 
 10 II 
 
 Sixteens, 
 
 II 9 
 
 II 
 
 16 
 
 9K 11 
 
 9 II 
 8 I, 
 
 Twenty-fours, 
 
 II 8 
 
 II 
 
 24 
 
 8% 1, 
 
 Thirty-twos, 
 
 II 6 
 
 II 
 
 32 
 
 6 „ 
 
 6 1, 
 
 Forty-eights, 
 
 II S 
 
 II 
 
 48 
 
 4M 1, 
 
 S II 
 
 Sixties, 
 
 II 3 
 
 II 
 
 60 
 
 3K II 
 
 3K 1. 
 
 Eighties, 
 
 II Thumbs. 
 
 80 
 
 2M II 
 
 zH II 
 
POTTING PLANTS. 41 
 
 Pots are made of the sizes mentioned in the fore- 
 going list, and are generally sold at the factory by 
 the "cast" or "lead," the price per "cast" being the 
 same throughout ; indeed this system is one of the 
 earliest attempts at the pro rata principle, having 
 been adopted by potters for many years. 
 
 Fancy pots or vases of Etruscan ware, or enamelled 
 terra cotta, are now common ; and the plants in or- 
 dinary pots can be placed inside them, and concealed 
 by a few fresh strips of Ivy or other creepers. In 
 some cases, Selaginella or Club-mosses are established 
 on the pot-tops containing decorative plants, and these 
 effectually conceal the tops of the pots and the soil 
 when placed in the cases. 
 
 Potting, as we have previously observed, is a simple 
 operation ; still a little attention to the requirements 
 of the plant is essential. It is not enough to seize a 
 plant and jam its tender rootlets down tightly into 
 cold wet earth. 
 
 We shall first commence with rooted cuttings. Hav- 
 ing prepared your pots and compost, turn your cut- 
 tings out of the pot or flat pan in which they have 
 been "struck," and carefully separate their roots, if 
 interlaced or entangled. Your pots must be well 
 washed, and are prepared^ — i.e., drained — with a large 
 piece of " crock " (broken flower-pot) over the hole at 
 the bottom. Cover it with a few smaller pieces, and 
 place a thin layer of sphagnum over the whole. Now 
 place in a little compost (soil), and, taking the plant 
 carefully in your left hand, place it gently down on 
 the soil, and fill the pot quite full of compost. Now 
 take hold of the pot on each side, placing the two 
 forefingers of each hand over the soil, so as to hold 
 the stem of the plant exactly in the centre, and then 
 shake down the soil firmly by giving the bottom of 
 
42 CULTURAL. 
 
 the pot two or three sharp raps on the potting-bench, 
 or old table which serves the same purpose. As to 
 pressing down the soil with the fingers, much depends 
 on the amount of water or moisture it contains. Soil 
 for potting should not be v/et. Take up a handful 
 and squeeze it firmly in the hand ; if it adheres in a 
 solid mass like clay, it is not fit for use, and should 
 either be spread out to dry or mixed with more dry 
 sand, peat, and leaf-mould. In repotting large plants, 
 it is customary to give them a pot a size or two larger 
 than that in which they are growing. This is often 
 essential if the plants are in a fresh and vigorous 
 condition; but if debilitated and unhealthy, they 
 should be treated as recommended at p. 46, or even 
 "shaken out" — i.e., denuded of soil altogether — and 
 afterwards potted in pots as small as possible, and 
 carefully watered until they recover. In repotting 
 large healthy plants, do not shake all the soil from 
 their roots, but only pick off such portions with the 
 fingers as are either loose or stagnant. If the ball is 
 filled with fresh and healthy brown or white rootlets, 
 which thickly cluster round the sides, do not displace 
 much of the old compost, only removing such portions 
 as the crocks or stagnant drainage and soil at the 
 base, and a little round the upper part of the ball. If 
 the rootlets are very densely matted round the sides, 
 just release them with the end of a round-pointed 
 stick. Carefully press the new soil firmly round the 
 sides of the old ball, for reasons previously explained. 
 Do not place top much soil in at once ; and as the 
 fingers will not conveniently reach to the bottom of 
 anything larger than a six-inch pot, a piece of flat 
 plasterer's lath may be used in working down the 
 soil, using it gently, so as not to bruise the roots. 
 After the soil is pressed down firmly, smooth the 
 
WATERING PLANTS. 43 
 
 surface of the compost, which should be left per- 
 pectly level, and at least half an inch below the 
 rim of the pot. 
 
 WATERING PLANTS. 
 
 The question of when and how to water is one of 
 the most important a plant-grower has to deal with. 
 Some of our best professional horticulturists, who grow 
 the splendid examples we see at the best flower-shows, 
 are more particular with regard to this subject than any- 
 other operation in plant-growing. Experience is the 
 best guide for this operation, simple as it may appear 
 at first sight ; and a few practical experiments with 
 common plants will teach the anxious amateur more 
 than any number of written rules and directions. 
 Above all things keep to a system in your watering. 
 Look over your plants every evening in summer, and 
 every alternate morning in winter. Unless a definite 
 system is adopted, there is danger of your forgetting 
 the poor plants which depend on you for their food 
 and moisture. If you love flowers, this operation 
 will be a pleasure to you ; if yOu feel it irksome, 
 better give up all thoughts of plant-growing at once, 
 for you will never succeed. 
 
 As we have impHed, watering is a main feature in 
 plant-culture, and rather difficult to explain in writing. 
 If the plant is too dry, the roots as a matter of course 
 cannot attract sufficient moisture to counterbalance 
 the evaporation which takes place through the leaves, 
 and consequently the plant droops, or, as gardeners 
 term it, " flags." Again, if the plant is watered too 
 freely, the soil around its roots becomes sodden and 
 impervious to the air, the leaves turn yellow, and 
 
44 CULTURAL. 
 
 the whole plant gets debilitated and out of health. 
 From this it will be seen that an equable state of 
 moisture is desirable ; but practice, together with habits 
 of observation, will soon teach the right system to 
 adopt in this branch of plant-culture — a little experi- 
 ence being of much more service than any hints from 
 books. We extract the following from the ' American 
 Gardeners' Monthly' : — 
 
 " We shall understand better how to water if we 
 correct first some impressions derived from old works 
 on physiology. It is said that plants want water. 
 This is not strictly true. Water is found in plants, 
 but, it enters rather in the shape of vapour. A soil 
 that is wet will grow only water-plants ; and it is a 
 remarkable fact that these water-plants seem to have 
 very little water in them. A Reed or Bulrush grown in 
 water has far less water in its structure than a nearly 
 allied species grown on the dry land. The plants 
 which have most fluid matter in them are those grown 
 in the driest places. The deserts of Africa abound 
 in Euphorbias ; while on the plains of Mexico the 
 only moisture wild cattle can often get is from the 
 large spiny Globe Cactuses, which they manage to 
 cleave open with their hoofs. 
 
 "A wet soil is totally unfit for plant-growing. A 
 plant standing 24 hours in water is often irreparably 
 injured. A Hyacinth, to be sure, will live one season 
 in water ; but all the matter which goes to make 
 up the flower is prepared the year before — and after 
 flowering, the bulb is exhausted and almost worthless. 
 
 " A good soil for plant-growing, therefore, is not one 
 which will hold water, but one in which water will 
 rapidly pass away. 
 
 " The soil itself ought to be composed of minute par- 
 ticles, through which air-spaces abound. The water 
 
WATERING PLANTS. 45 
 
 must be just enough to keep these particles moist, 
 and the air in the spaces is thus kept in the condition 
 of moist air. The roots traverse these air-spaces, and 
 it is therefore moist air which roots want, and not 
 water. 
 
 " If it were water simply which plants wanted, we 
 should cork up the bottom of the hole in the flower- 
 pot, and prevent the water getting away. Instead of 
 this we try to hasten the passing of the water through 
 as much as possible, by not only keeping the hole as 
 clear as possible, but often by putting pieces of broken 
 material over the hole to act as drainage. 
 
 " A plant will generally be the healthiest, therefore, 
 which wants water the oftenest. This will show that 
 there are plenty of air-spaces, and that the roots are 
 making good use of them. If it does not often want 
 water, it is in a bad way, and more water will make 
 it worse. 
 
 " How often to water, then, will be according to how 
 easily the water passes away. If, when you pour 
 water on earth, it disappears almost instantaneously, 
 it would be safe to water such plants every day." 
 
 There are several methods adopted by professional 
 gardeners in order to determine when a plant requires 
 water : — 
 
 1. By the general appearance of the soil, or feeling 
 it with the finger. 
 
 2. Tapping the pot with the knuckles. The pot 
 has a sharp hollow sound or " ring " when the earth 
 it contains is dry, and a dull heavy " thudding " sound 
 when moist. Take a pot of dry soil, and one recently 
 soaked with water, and try this experiment. 
 
 3. By lifting the pots and testing their weight, wet 
 soil being of course much heavier than the same 
 quantity when in a dry state. Fill two pots with soil, 
 
46 CULTURAL. 
 
 water one only, and then lift them both for com- 
 parison. A little practical experience will soon enable 
 you to tell when your plants are dry by each or all 
 of the above methods. 
 
 Always use soft {i.e., rain or' river) water in prefer- 
 ence to that from wells or springs. In towns where 
 water is supplied by the corporation, expose it to the 
 sun in a wide tub or other vessel for a day or two 
 before using it for your plants. 
 
 Never use cold water. Water for plants should be 
 equal in temperature to the atmosphere of the room, 
 case, or frame in which they are growing. 
 
 Never water a plant that is already wet ; but when 
 a plant is dry, give it sufficient to moisten the ball 
 thoroughly. 
 
 When the compost gets very hard and dry, the pot 
 may be plunged in a pail of water, and allowed to re- 
 main until the air-bubbles cease rising to the surface. 
 
 If a plant is growing, and the pot is well drained, it 
 is nearly impossible to water it too freely. 
 
 Plants require, water less frequently during dull 
 damp weather, than during the summer, when the sun 
 is powerful and the light intense. 
 
 Water for syringing or sprinkling should be pure, 
 and quite free from mechanical impurities, as chalk 
 or lime. Muddy water leaves spots and patches of 
 dirt on the leaves after it has evaporated, and necessi- 
 tates their being sponged clean. 
 
 If you notice a pot that does not get dry, but that 
 appears to be in a wet and stagnant condition, turn 
 out the sickly plant at once. Examine the crocks or 
 drainage, and displace it (without breaking the ball) 
 if it is clogged up with wet soil. Look out for worms. 
 If you see holes and tracks but no worms, tap the soil 
 until they appear, and displace them. Now take a 
 
HEAT AND VENTILATION. 47 
 
 perfectly clean and dry pot (of the same size, or even 
 less), drain it (see " Potting"), and turn your plant into 
 it, pressing and shaking it down by gentle taps on the 
 bench or table. If the surface of the ball is moss- 
 grown, remove it with a blunt stick, and put a little 
 fresh compost around it. Now your plant is in a fair 
 way for recovery, and, in nine cases out of ten, if care- 
 fully watered, it will recover its freshness and beauty 
 — an important matter if it is either rare or valuable. 
 
 VENTILATION AND HEATING. 
 
 Ventilation must be duly attended to or your plants 
 will grow weak and spindling, more especially if the 
 position in which they happen to be placed is damp 
 and shaded from the sun's rays for a considerable 
 portion of the day. Open the window every day dur- 
 ing the summer, and every day when the weather is 
 mild during the winter months. Remember that cold 
 draughts are as hurtful to plant-life as to yourself 
 If the air outside is cold, or if it is very windy, the 
 plants and room can be ventilated by opening the 
 door leading into the next apartment, and farthest 
 away from the plants. Ventilation is most required 
 when the room is heated at night, or when the gas is 
 burning, so that the hurtful fumes may be quickly 
 dispersed. During summer the windows may be left 
 open during the night, where such a practice is con- 
 sistent with personal safety. Some plants, especially 
 Ferns and Selaginellas, grow freely in Wardian cases 
 or under shades, where they get but little fresh air, 
 and are continually in a humid atmosphere. The case 
 is different, however, with most flowering plants ; for 
 our experience teaches us that the more light and air 
 
48 CULTURAL. 
 
 they receive the stronger they grow, and the more 
 profusely they flower. When giving air to your plants 
 do not forget to turn them round at least once a-week, 
 or they draw towards the light, and become one-sided. 
 Cases and shades containing plants should also be 
 turned occasionally. 
 
 Heating. — The heating of the room in which 
 plants are grown during winter is an important matter. 
 During the summer months any of the plants herein 
 mentioned will grow freely in any unheated apart- 
 ment, or even out of doors, in a warm, moist, and 
 sheltered situation ; but during two or three of the 
 chilly months of the year artificial heat is essential, 
 especially during severe frosty weather. A very im- 
 portant fact to be observed by the cultivator is, that 
 where a fire is employed to heat a room, and there is 
 a severe frost outside, the atmosphere is in a state of 
 extreme dryness or aridity, and this often causes the 
 leaves to droop or flag, owing to the excessive evapo- 
 ration which has taken place from their surface during 
 the night. The uninitiated imagine it is the effects of 
 frost, and never think of syringing them with water at 
 about 45°, which under any circumstances is the best 
 thing to do, taking the precaution to lay them on their 
 sides during the operation, so that their roots do not be- 
 come sodden and chilled with the cold water. Even 
 hardy plants are the better forbeing kept above freezing- 
 point during severe weather. Some plants are hardy 
 enough to stand io° or 20° below zero ; but that fact 
 does not prove them to be benefited by the ordeal, 
 although they have passed it successfully. It is a fact 
 worthy of notice, that nearly every plant will grow in 
 a moderate heat ; but that there are thousands whose 
 constitutions are not capable of resisting severe cold, 
 or, to speak more correctly, the absence of heat. The 
 
HEAT AND VENTILATION. 49 
 
 temperature of a room in which tender plants are 
 grown should range from 40° to 55° during the winter 
 months, and this is amply sufficient for all the Orchids 
 mentioned in our list as being suitable for Wardian 
 cases or glass-shades, not that we think them the 
 tenderest of all plants by any means. Tender plants 
 should be taken out of the window and set down on 
 the floor during severe frosty nights, and a little extra 
 fire may be left in the grate for their special benefit. 
 During the winter when the fires are kept going, there 
 is much more dirt in the atmosphere than during sum- 
 mer, and the plants often get clogged with a thick 
 layer of fine dust. Do not be afraid to wash or 
 syringe your plants during mild weather in winter, as 
 nothing but good can possibly result from the practice 
 if they are washed without letting too much water 
 trickle down the stems into the ball. In some cases 
 where there are bow-windows, these are separated 
 from the interior of the apartment by a pair of glass 
 doors or a sliding partition. The cabinets so formed 
 are most excellent contrivances for plants, especially 
 where gas is extensively used ; and they also protect 
 plants from much of the dry heat and dust which 
 comes from the open grate. If tender plants are 
 grown, those compartments can in many cases be 
 heated at little expense by a small coil of inch or two- 
 inch iron piping connected with the boiler of the 
 kitchen-range. Where there is a real love for plant- 
 culture, more may be done by simply adapting the 
 circumstances and means already at our disposal, than 
 by creating facilities where the will or inclination to 
 use them to the best advantage does not exist. 
 
 D 
 
50 CULTURAL. 
 
 NOXIOUS INSECTS WHICH INFEST WINDOW-PLANTS. 
 
 There are a great variety of insect-pests that infest 
 tropical plants in hothouses, but green-fly and red- 
 spider are most to be dreaded by the window-gar- 
 dener. Here, again, as in most other cases, " Preven- 
 tion is better than cure ; " and if plants are regularly 
 syringed or sponged over with clean water, there will 
 be little fear of insects troubling them. If green-fly 
 makes its appearance on Roses, Geraniums, or other 
 plants, it can be syringed off with clean water, laying 
 them outside on the flags or stone pavement and 
 turning them over on their sides to prevent the roots 
 becoming soddened with water. If plants are allowed 
 to get too dry, or are watered irregularly, they are 
 liable to become infested with red-spider — a minute 
 pest, resembling a red cheese-mite. This is specially 
 apt to make its appearance in hot dry windows, and 
 soon renders itself apparent by the leaves turning a 
 rusty brown. Constant moisture is the best cure for 
 it, or plants may be sponged over with soft-soap and 
 water. It often attacks Dracaenas, but may be pre- 
 vented by sponging the leaves with clean water every 
 three or four days. 
 
 For worms in the soil, slake a few pieces of lime in 
 a pail of water and water the plant with it after it has 
 cooled down. This will soon dislodge them ; after 
 which they must be picked off and removed as they 
 come to the surface of the soil. This mixture is 
 rather beneficial to the plants than otherwise. 
 
 The following decoction is useful for thrip, red-spider, 
 or green-fly : " Boil an ounce of quassia-chips in three 
 pints of soft water, and either dip the plants or sponge 
 them with the solution after it becomes cool." We have 
 
INSECT-PESTS. 5 I 
 
 repeatedly tried this with the best results. If green- 
 fly exist only in small quantities, the fumes from a 
 pipe or cigar will soon settle them, care being taken 
 not to burn the plant in the operation. The best of 
 all remedies against insects is to prevent their appear- 
 ance by cleanliness and a liberal use of fresh water, 
 and abundance of fresh air during favourable weather. 
 Plants in close or Wardian cases seldom become in- 
 fested by insects, owing to the moist and genial atmo- 
 sphere which prevails, and the regular humidity, which 
 is one of the best points in those elegant contrivances. 
 It is not always advisable to smoke plants to rid 
 them of insect-pests ; and there is yet another excel- 
 lent plan to effect this object with little trouble. In- 
 secticides of various kinds are advertised ; but the 
 
 Vaporiser. 
 
 best we have tried are "Fowler's" and "Frettingham's," 
 which are both clean and effectual. We may here 
 allude to a capital little contrivance originally in- 
 
 Injecteur. 
 
 vented for applying the last-named mixture, but which 
 is also invaluable for diffusing moisture in a small 
 plant-case when filled with pure water. The annexed 
 
52 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 engraving will show the principle on which it is con- 
 structed, and also the method of using it, better than 
 any written description we can give. Instead of using 
 one's breath, it can be fixed to a small pair of bel- 
 lows, and the mixture we have recommended above 
 can also be applied by using this little contrivance. 
 To those who object to use this simple implement, I 
 can recommend another on a somewhat similar prin- 
 ciple but more complicated, the mixture being placed 
 in a little globe, and distributed in the form of fine 
 spray. The motive power is supplied by a pair of small 
 bellows, as shown in the accompanying illustration. 
 
 GARDENING IN CLOSE OR GLAZED CASES. 
 
 Many of the more tender and beautiful of flowering 
 plants and Ferns do not luxuriate in the arid at- 
 
 Albert Fern-Case. 
 
 mosphere of an ordinary sitting-room when heated 
 throughout the day by a coal-fire, and at night by a 
 
GARDENING IN CLOSE CASES. 
 
 53 
 
 Coal-fire and gas combined. For such as fail to grow 
 and give satisfaction under the above circumstances 
 we recommend glazed, or, as they are more generally- 
 termed, Wardian cases. These are elegant and pleas- 
 ing additions to the most tasteful and elaborately 
 furnished drawing-room, while some of the more .com- 
 mon rustic forms may serve the purpose for which 
 they are intended equally well in the modest sitting- 
 room of the city clerk or artisan. They are made 
 in a great variety of designs ; some being extremely 
 light and graceful, and most beautifully finished with 
 delicate enamel and gilding. Either light castings 
 of iron or copper may be employed, or they can be 
 constructed of wood according to taste; but for 
 durability and lightness the former are preferable. 
 For Ferns, Mosses, Liver- 
 worts {Marchantid),2x^6. many 
 choice and beautiful exotics, 
 these cases are specially 
 adapted — the plants often 
 succeeding much better in 
 them than in the drier tem- 
 perature of an ordinary green- 
 house. They should be fur- 
 nished with a receptacle of 
 zinc or copper beneath to 
 collect waste or superfluous 
 water, and in some cases this 
 appliance can be made the 
 means of supplying a little 
 extra heat to the case during 
 severe frosty nights by sim- 
 ply filling it up with boiling 
 water. Others are constructed so as to be readily 
 Jieated by a small oil or spirit lamp ; but these con- 
 
 Ornamental Plant-Case outside 
 Window. 
 
54 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 trivances are only required in exceptional cases, and 
 can then be ordered or made accordingly. In 
 furnishing these cases for Ferns, Begonias, Pani- 
 cum. Dwarf Bamboos, and ornamental-leaved trail- 
 ing plants, use a compost of turfy loam and peat. 
 
 Plant-Case, 
 
 to which a little well -decomposed leaf- mould and 
 coarse well -washed river or road sand should be 
 added. Having first added an inch or two of 
 broken flower-pots (crocks), oyster-shells, and rough 
 fibrous peat, to act as drainage, fill in with the com- 
 post, and arrange your plants according to taste. 
 A few lumps of sandstone may be used to vary the 
 surface, and as these are kept continually damp by 
 condensed moisture. Ferns and other plants twine 
 their roots around them, and grow very freely. Some 
 of the more delicate filmy Ferns (Trichomanes and 
 
GARDENING IN CLOSE CASES. 
 
 55 
 
 Hymenophyllum) luxuriate vigorously in these min- 
 iature plant-houses, more especially the Killarney 
 Fern, the beautiful and elegantly cut fronds of which 
 sparkle like gold when sprinkled with moisture. 
 Others, again, with fronds of delicate semi-trans- 
 parency, may be grown together with the curious 
 American Fly-trap (Dionaea mucipula), the Austra- 
 lian Pitcher-plant (Cephalotus foUicularis), the Side- 
 saddle flowers (Sarracenia of sorts), and other inter- 
 esting botanical and horticultural curiosities referred 
 to in our descriptive lists. Interesting as these cases 
 are to our lady friends, they are simply invaluable to 
 the student who does not possess a greenhouse or 
 plant-stove, but who wishes to watch the growth and 
 reproductive organs of cryptogams or tender flowering 
 plants. Furnished with a microscope and one of 
 these cases, more accurate knowledge in vegetable 
 physiology may be obtained in a few months than 
 could be gained from books alone in a lifetime. 
 These cases may be had of 
 any size, either furnished 
 with stands or of a circu- 
 lar form for placing on a 
 table near the window. For 
 raising choice and tender 
 seedlings or for striking 
 cuttings they are the next 
 best thing after a regularly 
 appointed propagating house 
 or pit, since in these ap- 
 pliances exactly the same 
 close humid atmosphere 
 can be maintained for any 
 length of time. Simple earthenware pans, either 
 rustic, enamelled, glazed, or plain, when covered 
 
 Rustic Plant-Shade. 
 
56 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 with a glass shade or bell-glass, as in our figure, 
 look very pretty furnished with a Fern or two and 
 a few sprays of Selaginella. These pans may be 
 filled with compost, and a lump or two of sandstone 
 is recommended for the larger cases. Small stands of 
 this kind make interesting ornaments for the drawing- 
 
 Rustic Fern-Shade. 
 
 room table, window, or sideboard, when filled either as 
 above recommended, or with a few bulbs for a change ; 
 the latter arrangement being specially applicable dur- 
 ing the winter and spring months. We figure a few 
 of the best forms of glazed cases ; but others can be 
 supplied by our best furnishing floral decorators. 
 
GARDENING IN CLOSE CASES. 
 
 57 
 
 Little Palms, Dracaenas, and other ornamental-leaved 
 plants, do remarkably well in these cases — much bet- 
 ter than when exposed to the dust and unnatural 
 aridity of an apartment heated in the ordinary man- 
 
 Rustic Pan. 
 
 ner. Other elegant arrangements will at once suggest 
 themselves to every lover of graceful plants and beau- 
 tiful flowers. A real love for plants is a sine qua non, 
 without which but few cultivators, either public or pri- 
 
 
 
 r 'i' 
 
 Rustic Fern- Case. 
 
 vate, can hope to succeed — with it, all our experience 
 is pleasant and easy. In addition to the smaller 
 cases for setting on ornamental stands or tables in the 
 sitting-room, it is possible in many cases to construct 
 a little window-conservatory like the one here figured. 
 
58 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 Low French windows are specially adapted for this 
 kind of thing ; and when tastefully filled with Ferns, 
 ornamental trailers, or flowering plants, are highly inte- 
 resting as seen from the apartment. They can either 
 be constructed outside, as in our figure, or within the 
 
 room itself. If 
 they are con- 
 structed outside, 
 it is a matter of 
 choice whether 
 they should be 
 accessible from 
 without only, or 
 if the window 
 should be glazed 
 in the ordinary 
 way. As to this 
 it depends main- 
 ly on the situa- 
 tion ; for if it is 
 naturally dry, 
 then there can 
 be no serious 
 objection to its 
 opening into the 
 apartment ; but 
 if very damp, per- 
 haps the window 
 
 Fernery Case outside French Window. had better he 
 
 glazed with thick crown-glass, so as to be damp- 
 proof, and then all necessary operations can "be carried 
 on outside, without any dirt or litter within the apart- 
 ment. Those who would carry closed-case gardening 
 still further afield may adopt a little " case conserva- 
 tory," built out from the house, as here represented. 
 
GARDENING IN CLOSE CASES. 
 
 59 
 
 If constructed opposite one of the sitting-room win- 
 dows the view will be always attractive, and it may 
 also serve as a roof 
 to the area below. 
 Plants grow well in 
 such structures if 
 water be thrown on 
 the floor and stages 
 two or three times 
 a - day during hot 
 sunny weather. 
 Canvas blinds on 
 rollers should be 
 provided for shad- 
 ing purposes during 
 summer; and if the 
 culture of tender 
 exotics is proposed, 
 it can in most cases 
 
 be heated bv oioes Conservatory buili out from house. 
 
 laid on from the fireplace or kitchen-boiler. In such a 
 little house as we have here figured, a beautiful and con- 
 stantly interesting collection of succulent plants, con- 
 taining several hundred species, could be easily grown 
 by the greatest novice at plant-culture; indeed, if 
 he would throw away his watering-pot in November, 
 and merely protect them from frost during the winter 
 months, we would defy him to kill them. Most other 
 plants require watering carefully and regularly ; but 
 succulents delight in a sunny position, with a mode- 
 rate supply of moisture when growing in the sum- 
 mer, and none whatever during the damp cold 
 months of winter. A very useful little fernery 
 could easily be constructed in the area of many 
 town residences by simply covering it in with strong 
 
60 CULTURAL. 
 
 furrowed or ordinary glass, the former being prefer- 
 able. This could be arranged either as a rockery, 
 or for pot-plants, and would be both useful and in- 
 teresting. There would be the requisite amount of 
 shade in such a structure, unless the roof was above 
 the level of the pavement ; and moisture or humidity 
 in the atmosphere, if not naturally present, is easily 
 attained in such situations. Many species of Ferns, 
 Selaginellas, and other shade-loving plants, would 
 luxuriate in such a structure. The following extract 
 on the manufacture and planting of room ferneries 
 or cases is from ' The Albany Cultivator' : — 
 
 " There-is no more beautiful adornment for a house 
 in the wintry season than an indoor fernery ; and as it 
 requires but little attention or sunlight, it is a decora- 
 tion which is within the reach of most of us. A simple 
 stand, which can be made by any carpenter or house- 
 joiner, and can be furnished with legs like a table, is 
 required. Into this there should be fitted a zinc pan, 
 from 3 to 4 or 5 inches in depth, according to the size 
 of the fernery. If it is small — say 2 feet in length 
 by 1 6 inches in width — 3 inches will be deep enough 
 for the pan. But larger-sized ferneries are the most 
 desirable. The handsomest one I ever saw was 3 feet 
 in length and 2 feet in width. The zinc pan must 
 be painted green, and the glass cover be either air- 
 tight or as nearly so as it can be made, and placed 
 over the pan, or else fastened tightly to it, with a door 
 set upon hinges, made of a pane of glass, opening in 
 the middle. When so large a fernery is prepared, 
 one can grow a great variety of Ferns, Mosses, and 
 Lycopods in it, and can make tiny hanging baskets 
 out of cocoa-nut shells or wicker-work, and grow 
 slender delicate trailers in them, and also many lovely 
 treasures of the wild woods. The height of a fernery 
 
GARDENING IN CLOSE CASES. 6 1 
 
 is important ; and it should be made as high as is 
 possible to keep the case well proportioned, because 
 the Ferns and other plants require plenty of room in 
 which to develop and expand their various beauties 
 in a graceful manner. When the fernery -case is 
 made, it is needful to fill it with soil, and you must be 
 particular to select this with care. Common garden- 
 soil will not answer your purpose for a fernery any 
 more than for a hanging-basket. If you have access 
 to the woods, you can procure the best soil in the 
 same place where you select the Ferns and Moss with 
 which to fill the pan. But if this cannot be done, and 
 you are forced to rely upon the florist to fill your plant- 
 case, let him also furnish the soil it requires. And in 
 case both these suggestions fail, you, make a compost 
 of one part silver sand, one part loamy peat, and one 
 part leaf-mould ; or substitute powdered charcoal and 
 cocoa-nut fibre for the peat and leaf-mould. Place a 
 few bits of charcoal in the bottom of the pan to keep 
 it sweet. Water the soil thoroughly when the plants 
 are first put in, and then close the fernery, and place 
 it in a shaded room for several days without opening 
 it. If the soil is well watered when the plants are 
 placed in it, it will not require any more water for 
 months ; but once in six weeks or two months it is well 
 to give it a little fresh air by opening the door for 
 half an hour or so. If any of the fronds of the Ferns 
 turn brown, or the other plants decay, it is best to 
 open the case and remove them, as they will taint the 
 air. If the fernery is made upon a table, castors 
 should be placed on the legs, so that it can be easily 
 moved, and thus it can be changed from one window 
 to another. An eastern or western window suits it 
 well, as it requires but very little sun — yet needs light. 
 Moisture is constantly condensed during the night. 
 
62 CULTURAL. 
 
 and it is deposited upon the glass sides. It is this 
 condensation which makes Ferns flourish under the 
 glass, when the dry atmosphere of our living rooms 
 would destroy them. I will give exact directions for 
 making a fernery, that any carpenter can follow. 
 Any durable wood can be used. Dimensions, 3 feet 
 by 2, and 2 feet in height. Size of glass, 22 inches by 
 22 for the ends, and 34 by 22 for the sides and top. 
 The bottom board should be 38 by 26 ; should be 
 made of inch-and-a-half plank, and project an inch 
 beyond the sides. The sides should be of inch stuff, 
 and grooved to let in the glass panes, which should be 
 fastened in with putty. Many like a pitched roof, 
 which will add to the height, and can be shaped with 
 panes of glass to resemble a French roof house. A 
 pretty moulding can be fastened around the outside, 
 which will be ornamental, and also serve to conceal 
 the zinc pan, which is placed inside. A little door 
 must be made in the back of the fernery, by which 
 plants can be removed or added, and air and water 
 given when needful. A glass case can also be fitted 
 over a marble or iron vase, filled with plants, and a 
 very pretty fernery made with little trouble." 
 
 We have hitherto spoken of cases heated more or 
 less artificially; but many half-hardy succulents. 
 Ferns, and flowering perennials, may be kept through 
 the severe weather by employing outdoor plant-cases 
 or cold frames. These are easily protected by mats 
 of straw or bast, or by covering them up with loose 
 straw, brake-fern, or even dry leaves, during severe 
 frosts. If covered with the latter, they should be in 
 some out-of-the-way and sheltered locality so as to 
 prevent litter. There are several forms of outdoor 
 plant-cases, nearly all being modifications of the com- 
 mon and well-known garden-frame. Mr Horley has 
 
GARDENING IN CLOSE CASES. 
 
 62 
 
 invented neat little structures (see fig.) that would 
 be invaluable to the amateur cultivator of Ferns or 
 Alpines, and the 
 Improved Hand- 
 lights of Mr Gil- 
 bert are very 
 handy and inex- 
 pensive, not only 
 as protectors dur- 
 ing winter, but Imiir<njed Hand-light. 
 
 also for propagating hardy, half-hardy, or bed- 
 ding plants in the spring and summer season. 
 Our illustration shows their main features and gen- 
 eral usefulness at a glance, and their cheapness is 
 
 Common Hand-lighl. 
 
 a further recommendation. The ordinary garden- 
 frame is very useful (where there is space for it), 
 and comes in handy not only for growing plants 
 and raising seeds and cuttings during spring and 
 summer, but also serves to protect many of the 
 more tender hardy plants during severe weather. 
 It can either be placed on a bed of ordinary soil, or 
 on a hotbed formed of well-shaken stable-manure. 
 If the latter plan is adopted, build up the manure as 
 
64 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 neatly as possible, from two feet to a yard in height, 
 and about a foot larger each way than the frame. 
 Do not put the lights on until after the bed has set- 
 tled, and the first flush of rank heat and steam is 
 
 Improved Garden-frames. 
 
 over ; after which the bed can be covered with a layer 
 of light rich soil from four to six inches in depth, and 
 into which either seeds or cuttings can be inserted. 
 A layer of coal-ashes will protect pot-plants from be- 
 coming infested with worms. 
 
 WINTERING TENDER PLANTS IN FRAMES AND 
 WINDOWS. 
 
 For the following very excellent directions on this 
 important subject I am indebted to Mr D. Thomson, 
 editor of ' The Gardener,' and well known as one of 
 our leading horticulturists. 
 
 "In most cases cold pits and frames are all that 
 can be commanded for wintering tender flower-garden 
 plants. There is sometimes an outhouse, spare room, 
 or bow-window that can be used as an auxiliary to 
 a pit or frame. With such convenience, indiff'erent as 
 
WINTERING TENDER PLANTS. 65 
 
 it may be considered, and really is, it is astonishing 
 how much can be accomplished by judicious manage- 
 ment and earnestness of purpose. In the construction 
 of cold pits to be used for wintering such things as 
 Geraniums, Verbenas, &c., the principal object to be 
 secured is dryness, because dampness is a far greater 
 enemy to such plants, and one more difficult to com- 
 bat than frost. On this account I have an objection 
 to sinking below the ground-level, unless the walls 
 below ground be made perfectly water-tight by 
 cement, and the bottom should be as thoroughly 
 drained as possible. Indeed it is a good plan either 
 to pave or cement the bottom of the frame or pit to 
 prevent water rising by capillary attraction, in which 
 case there must be holes for the escape of all moisture 
 that may collect inside ; and the foundation of the 
 inside should be of open rubble, with a drain to take 
 the water away. Pits sunk a little into the ground 
 and constructed in this way are warmer than when 
 raised above the ground-level. But I would rather 
 have all above the level, and construct the walls 
 hollow, enclosing a stratum of air, which is the best 
 non-conductor. One of the principal points necessary 
 to success in wintering plants without the aid of fire- 
 heat, is that of preparing the plants in autumn. P 
 have already recommended for all cases early and the 
 coolest system of propagation ; but this is most" espe- 
 cially applicable to the case of those who have no 
 better convenience than cold frames or pits to winter 
 their plants in. fearly propagation allows of the 
 plants being exposed to the open air, and enables 
 them to become thereby robust ; and their growth 
 is thus ripened or solidified, so that they are not 
 so susceptible of injury from either damp or cold. 
 They of course become well rooted, which is another 
 
 E 
 
66 CULTURAL. 
 
 requisite to success. When it becomes necessary to 
 place the plants in the pits, in order to be secure from 
 autumn frosts, the lights should be drawn off by day 
 when the weather is dry, not a drop of water should 
 be allowed on the leaves, and they should be kept dry 
 to the drooping point. This brings on a state of 
 maturity before winter, calculated to stand a damp, 
 cold, confined atmosphere, and the absence of light, 
 with the least possible injury. In placing the plants 
 in the pit, do not overcrowd them. The pots should 
 be washed clean ; and where the leaves of such as 
 Geraniums are crowded, thin out some of the largest 
 of them. Some dry loose material, such as hay or 
 straw, should be in readiness as winter approaches for 
 covering up with in case of severe frost, and some of 
 the same materials should be packed round the sides 
 of the pit. But for this avoid anything likely to heat 
 and prematurely excite the plants by a rise of tempera- 
 ture. When thick coverings over the glass become 
 necessary, the material should, if possible, be perfectly 
 dry, and shaken on as loosely as possible, as the more 
 loosely it lies the more air — the best non-conducting 
 medium — it contains. If over the loose dry material 
 some light covering, such as strong oiled calico, can 
 be thrown, it will prevent cold winds from penetrating, 
 and keep the hay or straw dry. When it becomes 
 necessary, from severe and continuous frost, to keep 
 the glass covered up for a few weeks at a time, and 
 when, perhaps, the thermometer inside the pit would 
 indicate a few degrees of frost, great caution is neces- 
 sary in uncovering and exposing the plants to light 
 and air when the weather changes suddenly to a thaw. 
 To uncover hastily, under such circumstances, ex- 
 poses them to such a sudden reaction as will prove far 
 more destructive than a degree or two of frost. The 
 
WINTERING TENDER PLANTS. 6/ 
 
 covering should not be touched till the temperature 
 inside has risen above freezing a few degrees, and then 
 it should not be removed all at once, but by degrees. 
 Plants are living things, possessing all the suscepti- 
 bilities of the most perfect and delicate organism, and 
 are as subject to injury from sudden and extreme 
 changes of light and heat as is the human frame. 
 Many never think of this, or, if they do, are apt to 
 forget it ; and so, as soon as it thaws, off goes the 
 covering, and the plants are injuriously affected even 
 by the sudden flood of light, and if they have been 
 slightly frozen they are ruptured by a too rapid thaw, 
 and mould and rottenness follow. Frost should not 
 be allowed to creep in, if possible ; but if it does, it 
 should be allowed to creep out, not be suddenly ex- 
 pelled. The great points, therefore, in wintering 
 plants where fire-heat cannot be applied, are — first, to 
 keep the plants dry, and in as complete a state of rest 
 as possible, all the latter part of autumn and winter. 
 Secondly, when it becomes necessary to cover up for 
 any length of time from severe frost, the covering 
 material should be dry and loose. Thirdly, when thaw 
 takes place, do not uncover at once, but gradually, 
 and not till the thaw is complete. All winter water- 
 ing should be avoided beyond what is necessary to 
 preserve life, and it is much better to have plants at 
 the drooping point than the least over wet. This is 
 equally applicable to plants wintered in spare rooms, 
 and, indeed, even in greenhouses where fire-heat can 
 be used. It is astonishing how little water is sufficient 
 in winter for flower-garden plants, and especially 
 Geraniums, which are often ruined by late propaga- 
 tion and over-watering in winter. I have frequently 
 had variegated Geranium cuttings in 8-inch pots on 
 shelves go without water for eight and ten weeks, and 
 
68 CULTURAL. 
 
 look splendid, although so dry that some would think 
 they would be starved. 
 
 HOW TO GROW HYACINTHS IN WATER, FOR 
 WINDOW DECORATION. 
 
 Many ladies who will not tolerate a flower-pot in 
 their drawing-room window or on the sideboard, are 
 fond of Hyacinths, when grown in neat ornamental 
 glasses, or in elegant vases of Etruscan ware or 
 terra cotta. The following directions are written 
 by a gentleman who has had much experience in 
 their culture, and will be found to the point : — 
 
 " There are two great mistakes made by many of 
 those who attempt to grow Hyacinths in water ; the 
 one is an improper selection of varieties to cultivate ; 
 the other is want of attention — this last being a most 
 prolific source of failure. Almost without exception, 
 single Hyacinths alone should be grawn in glasses. 
 It is the characteristic of certain varieties of single 
 Hyacinths to produce good, close, compact spikes ; 
 but it requires some of the cultivator's art to produce 
 a good close spike of a double Hyacinth, even when 
 grown in pots. On a warm sunny day in the month 
 of April I have frequently seen Hyacinths in glasses 
 within a window deprived of ventilation, and languish- 
 ing for want of water. At best, long-drawn sorry 
 specimens result, and blame is frequently I'aid at the 
 door of a seedsman, on the ground that the bulbs 
 were not good, when it is wholly the cultivator who 
 was at fault. Then the old, ugly, upright glass is 
 clung to and used, and as there is no support for 
 the flowering spike — at least, a support that is ele- 
 gant in appearance — the Hyacinths soon become 
 lopsided, and tilt over the glasses, owing to their 
 
HYACINTHS IN WATER. 
 
 69 
 
 superincumbent weight. The cultivators of Hya- 
 cinths prefer medium-sized solid bulbs. About 
 the middle of October is the best time to place 
 the Hyacinths in glasses. The best type of glass is 
 that known as Tye's registered, not unlike a wide- 
 mouthed small decanter in 
 appearance ; while Claudet 
 & Houghton and others have 
 very pretty designs in Etrus- 
 can and other wares. Fresh 
 water should be used, and it 
 is a good plan to fill the 
 glasses, and then place in each 
 three or four pieces of char- 
 coal, about the size of a cob- 
 nut, to keep the water from 
 becoming offensive, and there- 
 fore obviating the necessity 
 for its being frequently 
 changed. This should be 
 done about three days before 
 the bulbs are placed in the 
 glasses, as in the interim 
 the charcoal becomes thor- Hyacinth-glass. 
 
 oughly saturated with moisture, and sinks to the 
 bottom of the glass. If placed in the water at the 
 same time as the bulbs, it will occasionally happen, 
 in the case of strong quick-rooting varieties, that the 
 descending roots encircle the charcoal, and keep it 
 close under the base of the bulbs. There is no real 
 necessity for placing the glasses in the dark to induce 
 a free root-growth. It is an old practice, but it is not 
 the more necessary to be followed because it is old. 
 I have grown Hyacinths in glasses with much success 
 for the past ten years, and have for a considerable 
 
70 CULTURAL. 
 
 period discontinued placing them in the dark. The 
 theory set up is, that ' roots, as a rule, delight to grow 
 in the dark, the action of light being unnatural to 
 them.' But the generality of Hyacinth-glasses are of 
 an opaque character, and the newest types in Etru- 
 scan ware, &c., altogether so. When the bulbs are 
 placed in my own glasses, they stand on the mantel- 
 piece or the sideboard ; and a bulb seldom fails to 
 root very satisfactorily, and then invariably because 
 of some inherent defect. The roots of the Hyacinths 
 make growth first, unless it be very late when they 
 are placed in water. In its own time the foliage ap- 
 pears, and then it becomes necessary to keep the 
 glasses in a cool, airy position, so that the leaves do 
 not I become drawn ; as also to keep the glass filled 
 with water to supply that which becomes absorbed 
 by the roots, and lost through evaporation. When 
 charcoal is placed in the glasses, it is rarely necessary 
 that the water should be changed. I have read very 
 elaborate, but very tiresome, rules relating to the 
 culture of Hyacinths in water, in which it is urged 
 that the water should be changed at least once a- 
 week. Some of my best flowers have been grown 
 in glasses, the water in which was not once changed. 
 If a brisk fire be kept in the room where the glasses 
 are, there will be need for fresh water in the glasses 
 twice or thrice a-week, so that no part of the roots 
 may be without water. The best position for the 
 glasses when the bulbs begin to make upward growth 
 is the most airy and lightest part of a sitting-room, 
 but as far from the fire as possible. The foliage of 
 the plants should be kept free from any deposits of 
 dust ; a small piece of damp sponge will remove these 
 with but very little trouble. As the flower-spikes are 
 thrown up, proper supports, made on purpose, and 
 
HYACINTHS IN WATER. 7 1 
 
 sold with the glasses, should be affixed for use. They 
 are neat in appearance, and answer the end for which 
 they are designed admirably. If the glasses be placed 
 in the window when the spikes are in flower, they 
 should be shaded from the action of the sun, when, 
 bright and warm. 
 
 " The best sorts. — That beautiful double blush Hya- 
 cinth Lord Wellington does admirably in a glass, and 
 it is also one of the noblest Hyacinths grown. Of 
 single varieties, I have found all of the following do 
 well : Duchess of Richmond, bright pink ; Emmeline, 
 delicate blush ; Gigantea, pale flesh ; Madame Hod- 
 son, shaded pink ; Norma, waxy pink ; Robert Steiger, 
 bright dark carmine red ; Sultan's Favourite, delicate 
 blush ; Baron von Tuyll, dark porcelain blue ; Blue 
 Mourant, dark blue; Charles Dickens, lively violet; 
 Emicas, deep violet ; Grand Lilas, delicate azure blue 
 (this beautiful variety should never be omitted) ; Leo- 
 nidas, clear bright blue ; Mimosa, dark blue purple ; 
 Orondates, pale porcelain blue ; Regulus, shaded la- 
 vender blue ; Alba superbissima, pure white ; Cleo- 
 patra, creamy white ; Grandeur k Merveille, waxy 
 French white ; Grand Vainqueur, pure white ; Madame 
 Van der Hoop, pure white, a beautiful variety ; Sera- 
 phine, creamy blush ; Themistocles, pure white ; Anna 
 Carolina, pure yellow ; Heroine, clear yellow ; and La 
 Citroni^re, deep citron yellow. If I were called upon 
 to name the best dozen, I should select Duchess of 
 Richmond, Emmeline, Robert Steiger, and Sultan's 
 Favourite from the reds; Baron von Tuyll, Charles 
 Dickens, Grand Lilas, and Leonidas from the blues ; 
 Cleopatra, Grandeur a Merveille, Grand Vainqueur, 
 and Themistocles from the whites. If a yellow is 
 wished for. La Citroniere could be substituted for 
 one of the white varieties." 
 
72 CULTURAL. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE GROWTH OP BULBS 
 IN WINDOWS. 
 
 The following excellent directions, written in De- 
 cember, have been furnished by Mr J. C. Niven, curator 
 of the Hull Botanic Garden, to the Hull Window- 
 Garden Society. Let us hope that the example may 
 be followed in other places : — 
 
 " Such bulbs as Crocuses, Tulips, and Hyacinths, 
 may, with a little care, be grown in any window on 
 which the morning, mid-day, or afternoon sun shines, 
 and all the more successfully if the window be under 
 the influence of all combined. 
 
 '- As to planting : do not now lose a day. Those 
 who have a few old flower-pots should have them 
 well washed ; the best size will be four to six inches 
 in diameter; but really the size is more to be re- 
 gulated by the width of the window-ledge on which 
 they are to stand than by anything else. If you have 
 a broken pot that is useless for plants, reduce it to 
 small pieces, place one of the largest of these above 
 the hole of the pot used for planting, and above it a 
 dozen small pieces. Failing the old broken pot, take 
 a handful of cinders from below the; fire grate, they 
 will do quite as well. One of the youngsters will get 
 you a bit of old broken plate, that will do to cover 
 the hole in the bottom — he is almost sure to have a 
 bit in his trousers-pocket ; in either case, what we 
 aim at is drainage. Fill the pot thus prepared with 
 the soil, as distributed ready for use, to within one 
 inch of the top ; gently press it down, and make good 
 any deficiency caused by the pressure ; then place the 
 bulbs (say three, four, or five, according to the size of 
 the pot) on this surface, gently pressing them down ; 
 
BULBS IN WINDOWS. 73 
 
 but if the roots are protruding, let the pressure be 
 very slight. Fill up the pot with soil, pressing it also 
 down with the thumbs between the bulbs, so as to fix 
 each in its place when finished. In the case of Cro- 
 cuses, at this season, the buds should just peep out 
 above the soil. In this operation, take care of the side 
 buds, not to break or injure them ; although they do 
 not produce flowers, they contribute leaves, and leaves 
 are pretty, as well as useful. Tulips may be treated in 
 the same way ; but Hyacinths should have, if obtain- 
 able, a little sand below the bulb, to assist in the devel- 
 opment of the young roots ; and the upper surface of 
 the bulb should be just above the level of the soil. 
 
 " But some may say we have no flower-pots, and 
 cannot afford to get any : well, I'll give you a sub- 
 stitute. Have you not an old basin or a soup-plate .' 
 Perhaps you'll say yes, but it is cracked. All the 
 better for that ; it will allow a little of the superflu- 
 ous water to run out, and a little air to come in. The 
 soup-plate will be rather shallow, so you must make 
 a miniature mountain of it, finishing with a hollow at 
 top, like the crater of an extinct miniature volcano — 
 where water can be poured and sink into the body of 
 the soil without running away. Another substitute 
 — don't laugh ! An old superannuated teapot, whose 
 spout, possibly, has come to grief, or, perhaps, the 
 handle — if both are gone, all the better. Make a 
 hole, where the handle was inserted, just sufficiently 
 large for the buds to push through, and before filling 
 up with soil, insert a Crocus in each of these holes 
 from the inside ; top up with Crocus or any other 
 bulbs, and I will guarantee when their very slender 
 leaves hang gracefully down the sides of the pot 
 (though it lose its former appearance) it will still 
 answer its new purpose to a T. 
 
74 CULTURAL. 
 
 " The operation of planting finished, give them a 
 nice watering — not a deluge (Avise folks don't fill the 
 pot when they make the tea). You may at once place 
 them in the window ; but it would be better to give 
 them about three weeks in a cupboard in the dark 
 — mind, not one beside a fire. Under the influence 
 of the dark they will make roots. During this time 
 they will want watering once or twice, and when in 
 the window, possibly twice a-week ; but until they 
 show their green leaves, and the colour of their 
 flowers, be very careful not to over -water them. 
 When they are in bloom, on a genial sunny day, 
 give them plenty of air; open the window wide, 
 and close the door — it will do both you and them 
 good. When done blooming, put them on the out- 
 side sill, where the leaves will get their full growth, 
 and, under these circumstances, water them every 
 day. Having made their growth, and the leaves 
 beginning to wither, stop the water supply, but not 
 till then. For the summer, they may be placed in 
 a corner of the yard, or if you have a bit of garden, 
 plunge the pots up to the rim in soil, and leave 
 Nature to take further care of them till next No- 
 vember. 
 
 "Another suggestion. — Your pots, as I before stated, 
 will be on the outside sill ; if they are large pots, place 
 among the Crocus roots, about the end of March, two 
 or three seeds of Convolvulus major, Canary Creeper, 
 or even Nasturtium or Scarlet Runner, stretch a piece 
 of wire or twine up the side of the window, and train 
 up the young growing shoots. With a little inge- 
 nuity you can carry them over the window-top till 
 they meet, and then let them hang in graceful fes- 
 toons. If your pots are small, get larger ones, put 
 some manure in the bottom (say two or three inches 
 
HANGING-BASKETS. 75 
 
 thick) — place the small Crocus pots in these, and, if 
 there is room, fill up round the sides with manure or 
 sand ; so arranged, your seeds will thrive and flourish 
 without disturbing your bulbs. 
 
 " If you have had to fall back on the teapot before 
 alluded to, place it in an old broken basin, fill round 
 with manure, so as to rise above the holes where the 
 spout and handle were. The roots of the strong-feed- 
 ing seeds from between the bulbs will soon find their 
 way out ; and if you succeed — and I am sure you will 
 — may I not ask if I have not pointed out a use for 
 the superannuated teapot never dreamt of in the phil- 
 osophy of the stanchest teatotaler ?" 
 
 HANGING-BASKETS FOR THE WINDOW OR BALCONY. 
 
 Many plants of drooping or graceful habit look 
 much better when grown in baskets than planted in 
 ordinary flower-pots. Baskets for our present purpose ' 
 may be obtained of any size, and made in various 
 materials, Those of neat galvanised wire look well 
 when tastefully filled ; but others of earthenware, or 
 rustic baskets of either wood or virgin cork, may be 
 employed according to the taste of the cultivator, and 
 the situation in which they are to be placed. The 
 size must be in proportion to the width of the window 
 or balcony ; but the larger they are the better, small 
 baskets being rather troublesome to keep in an 
 equable state of moisture. When filled with suitable 
 plants these baskets will last for years, only requiring 
 an occasional addition of fresh soil and a little atten- 
 tion in removing decayed foliage. Spring is a good 
 time to fill them ; and for this purpose we shall 
 require some nice light soil and a few handfuls of 
 
76 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 Han^ng-Basket with Ferns, Si^c. 
 
HANGING-BASKETS. 
 
 77 
 
 sphagnum moss— the latter to prevent the soil from 
 washing through the network before the plants become 
 thoroughly established. It is a good plan to have a 
 zinc or earthenware pan fitted into the wire-baskets, 
 with a false bottom and a tap to collect and dispose of 
 extra moisture. If the basket is to be grown inside 
 
 Hanging-Basket •with Ferns, &'c. 
 
 the vi^indow or apartment, we may select the more 
 tender plants from our list, nearly all of which will 
 grow as freely in baskets as in pots. If they are to 
 be suspended from the balcony or verandah outside, 
 we can only use hardy or half-hardy plants. Inatten- 
 tion to this latter remark will only end in disappoint- 
 
78 CULTURAL. 
 
 ment — though, as a matter of course, nearly all the 
 outside plants will grow inside the house as well, or 
 in some cases better than if in the open air. The 
 common varieties of garden Ivies (Hedera) are admir- 
 ably adapted for covering baskets, either inside the 
 house or outside on the balcony. They grow very 
 freely, and can be pegged down around the sides of 
 the basket, into which the shoots will root freely. A 
 basket nicely furnished with one or two varieties of 
 Ivy always looks well, forming a fresh green or 
 golden groundwork into which either a few bulbs or 
 flowering-plants can at any time be introduced. A 
 correspondent of the ' Garden ' thus speaks of Straw- 
 berries for hanging-baskets : " Little bushes of Al- 
 pines are really pretty plants for house-culture, and 
 in a moderately low temperature will produce fruit 
 continuously. I have taken up and potted a good 
 number of plants of both the red and white Alpine, 
 and expect that their fruit and flowers will, during 
 the winter, amply repay the little care required in 
 their culture. I should think that those who take so 
 much delight in window-plants would try the Alpine 
 Strawberries. The varieties that produce runners 
 are very pretty when grown in hanging-baskets, for 
 the long pendent stems produce a bunch of leaves, 
 flowers, and fruit at every joint, and I am sure the 
 whole appearance of the plants is equal, if not 
 superior to Aaron's Beard (Saxifraga sarmentosa) 
 or S. tricolor (see fig.), Tradescantia, and scores of 
 similar plants that are generally cultivated for such 
 purposes." Autumn is the best time to fill baskets 
 with spring-flowering bulbs — September or October 
 being preferable. The best kinds of bulbs for the 
 purpose are Hyacinths, single varieties (red, white, 
 and blue mixed) being preferable to the double- 
 
HANGING-BASKETS. 
 
 79 
 
 flowered kinds, as they bloom much more freely and 
 generally produce better spikes. It is not desirable 
 to purchase either high-priced or named varieties for 
 ordinary decorative purposes, as they do not flower any 
 better — often not so well — than the ordinary kinds. 
 Crocus bulbs are well adapted for basket cultivation, 
 and may be introduced all round the sides, reserving 
 
 Saxifraga tricolor. 
 
 the upper part for Hyacinths or a few Tulips and 
 Jonquils. All these are perfectly hardy, but will 
 flower some weeks earlier if grown inside the apart- 
 ment. Baskets well furnished with fresh green Ivy 
 and spring-flowering bulbs are very pretty as room or 
 window ornaments. An interesting natural basket 
 may be made as follows: Take a large Turnip or 
 
8o CULTURAL. 
 
 Beet-root, and cut it in half transversely, reserving 
 the end nearest the crown. This should be hollowed 
 out with a knife so as to form a cavity large enough 
 to receive a Hyacinth bulb and a small quantity 
 of living sphagnum or other kind of moss. Place the 
 bulb on a layer of the moss, and pack it firmly with 
 the same material around the sides, tying the whole 
 firmly down with some thin copper wire, which can 
 be passed through the sides of our Turnip-basket 
 very easily. Now suspend one or two of these in the 
 window with some thin wire, and the bulb will grow 
 and flower beautifully, while the Turnip (or Beet) 
 will emit fresh young leaves from its crown which 
 curl up the sides, thus forming a charming and 
 natural ornament very interesting both to ourselves 
 and friends. The following is another pretty arrange- 
 ment, suitable either for standing on a table near the 
 light or for suspending in the window : Take a 
 flat dish either of crystal or earthenware, say fifteen 
 inches in diameter by about one fourth that depth. 
 This must be filled with damp moss, into which two 
 or three Hyacinths and Crocus bulbs can be placed, 
 partly imbedded in the moss. Some branches of 
 the common small-leaved wood Ivy can be inserted 
 round the sides, and will soon throw out fresh young 
 roots info the wet moss, and grow as freely as possible 
 — indeed, the same pieces of Ivy may be used for 
 several years in succession in this manner. When the 
 bulbs are in flower these arrangements are very beau- 
 tiful, the Ivy being always nice and fresh, and the 
 moss keeps green if regularly moistened. When the 
 bulbs are over, the moss forms one of the best of 
 all receptacles for cut-flowers and sprays of foliage, 
 allowing the Ivy to remain as a graceful edging. 
 Violets keep for a long time in this material ; while 
 
HANGING-BASKETS. 
 
 8i 
 
 sprays of the common marsh Forget-me-not (Myo- 
 sotis palustris) will root into the moss and go on 
 flowering most beautifully for several weeks just as 
 freely as if in their native ditches. I regularly keep 
 one of these vases of living moss and Ivy as a 
 receptacle for any curious or beautiful flowers met 
 with in my daily rambles, and I can honestly recom- 
 mend them to all lovers of flowers as worth a trial. 
 Very beautiful hanging-baskets and receptacles for 
 
 Rustic Basket with Ferns. 
 
 cut-flowers are often made of rustic materials, as 
 burs, knots, old gnarled roots, or pine and fir cones 
 nailed on light wooden shapes, and neatly varnished. 
 These can generally be purchased cheaply ; or they 
 may be made at home during the long winter even- 
 ings, especially if the boys have a taste for carpentry, 
 and a little constructive ability to boot. We give a 
 few figures of the best forms of hanging-baskets ; and 
 those plants best suited for furnishing them are indi- 
 cated in our descriptive lists. 
 
 In addition to hanging-baskets, neat brackets are 
 F 
 
82 CULTURAL. 
 
 often usfeful for bare walls adjoining windows ; and these 
 appendages enable us to extend our window-gardens 
 to a considerable extent. Brackets may be made of 
 wood, wire, or earthenware, according to taste. A very- 
 simple one for holding flower-pots is figured below. 
 Hardy trailing-plants of all kinds may be grown in 
 pots and hung along a blank wall 
 with the aid of this simple but use- 
 ful and efficient little contrivance. 
 It frequently happens that plants 
 grow rather unequally in baskets, 
 and sometimes bare spaces occu^, in 
 ■if which case supply the places of the 
 
 ^* plants that fail by sowing a pinch 
 
 iVali Pot-Holders. ^f ^^^ ornamental grass-seed, which 
 will soon spring up fresh and green. In the spring-time, 
 instead of grass-seeds those of Stocks, Mignonette, 
 Asters, or other beautiful free-flowering annuals may 
 be used ; and will flower freely during the ensuing 
 summer if duly attended to with regard to moisture. 
 In the autumn, when the annuals die off", clear them 
 out, freshen up the soil, adding more when necessary ; 
 and having picked off all dead and decaying foliage, 
 fill up the blank places with a few common bulbs, 
 such as Hyacinths, Scillas, Anemones, Crocus, Snow- 
 drops, or early Tulips. These are sure to flower well, 
 and will amply repay you for your trouble and fore- 
 thought. One of the chief attractions connected with 
 the use of these little hanging-gardens is the immense 
 and charming variety of material one may employ. 
 In point of design they are practically unlimited, 
 while the plants with which they may be filled are 
 both numerous and beautiful. An artistic friend con- 
 tinually keeps a large hanging-basket filled with Ivy, 
 Toad -flax. Creeping Jenny, Ivy-leaved Geraniums 
 
SITTING-ROOM ORCHIDS. 83 
 
 (see fig.), and a few half-hardy Ferns, suspended be- 
 neath the skyhght which hghts his studio. His de- 
 signs on the wood are universally admired for their 
 beauty and faithfulness, nearly all the graceful touches 
 of vegetation he from time to time introduces into his 
 pictures as accessories being accurate studies from his 
 little hanging-garden. If drawing is practised in the 
 family — and in what tasteful home is it not encour- 
 aged ? — baskets and vases filled with elegant plants 
 
 Variegated Ivy-leaved Geranium. 
 
 furnish the student with the very best of all natural 
 models. 
 
 ORCHIDS FOR THE SITTING-ROOM. 
 
 Orchids are not as yet very generally used for 
 the decoration of apartments — a use for which 
 many of these beautiful plants seem pre-eminently 
 
84 " CULTURAL. 
 
 adapted. That they are used for the decoration 
 of the dinner-table occasionally we know, but it is 
 a rarity to see any Orchid used in drawing-rooms ; 
 and yet we have many species that will make a 
 vigorous growth out of doors during the summer if 
 placed in a sheltered position ; and we know of in- 
 stances in which some of the more common species 
 have been well grown in Ward's close cases for many 
 months together. Some Orchids bloom after their 
 growth is matured, and fipish flowering before they 
 again commence growing ; and these are the best to 
 employ for the sitting-room, as they can be again 
 transferred to the Orchid-house before they commence 
 their growth, and there is comparatively no danger of 
 their being injured. To these last belong some of the 
 cool Odontoglossums and Oncidiums, Ccelogyne cris- 
 tata, Lycaste Skinneri, besides many of the glorious 
 Cattleyas and Lselias. Ccelogyne cristata is one of 
 the finest of all Orchids for indoor decoration ; and 
 during the past very severe winter we repeatedly used 
 a fine plant, with thirty or forty spikes, for the espe- 
 cial decoration of the dining-room, and occasionally 
 for the front hall. Under gaslight this is one of the 
 loveliest objects imaginable, the white colour of the 
 flowers being dazzling in its purity under artificial 
 light. The temperature of the Orchid-house in which 
 this plant was placed last winter, frequently de- 
 scended to 38°, or only 6° above freezing-point, 
 and yet it is uninjured. Another Indian Orchid, 
 Aerides odoratum, we had last winter in an ordinary 
 lean-to, the temperature of which descended fre- 
 quently to 40°, and probably lower. Crotons suc- 
 cumbed to this treatment ; but two small plants of 
 this Aerides are as healthy as ever, and are now grow- 
 ing and flowering vigorously. It would be folly to 
 
SITTING-ROOM ORCHIDS. 85 
 
 recommend Indian Epiphytes, as Phalaenopsisi Vandas, 
 &c., to be removed to the house in the winter season ; 
 but with many of the Odontoglossums, Lycastes, &c., 
 this may be done with impunity if due precautions 
 are taken in frosty weather to prevent the plants being 
 frozen in transit. Lycaste Skinneri and its many 
 beautiful varieties will last for weeks together in 
 an ordinary sitting-room, the temperature of which " 
 does not sink below 40° ; and the same may be said 
 of Odontoglossum Alexandrae, Oncidium nubigenum, 
 and many other species of Orchids from the cool sum- 
 mits of the Peruvian Andes. During the summer 
 months there is little danger to be feared if the plants 
 are set in a sheltered position in the room, and not 
 subjected to cold, cutting draughts ; but in the win- 
 ter we would strongly recommend the use of close 
 cases ; while for small plants, such as Sophronitis 
 grandiflora, S. cernua, Cypripedium insigne, C. venus- 
 tum, &c., common glass shades will suffice to protect 
 them from cold draughts and the aridity of the atmo- 
 sphere, which last is most to be feared in sharp frosty 
 weather. The compost in the pots should be allowed 
 to get comparatively dry before they are removed to 
 a lower temperature, there being several degrees of 
 difference in temperature between soil that is wet and 
 dry. The following is a list of Orchids suitable for the 
 decoration of the sitting - room : Lycaste Skinneri, 
 L. cruenta, and L. aromatica ; Ccelogyne cristata ; 
 Oncidium nubigenum, O. Phalaenopsis, and O. cucul- 
 latum ; Cattleya citrina ; Lselia albida, L. autumnalis, 
 L. furfuracea, and L. anceps ; Barkeria spectabilis and 
 B. Skinneri ; Sophronitis grandiflora and S. cernua ; 
 Ada aurantiaca; Odontoglossums, many species, O. 
 Alexandrae and O. Pescatorei being amongst the best 
 for the purpose. 
 
86 CULTURAL. 
 
 HOW TO GROW THE CHINESE PRIMULA, OR 
 " EVERYBODY'S FLOWER." 
 
 For the following excellent directions in raising 
 Chinese Primulas from seed, I am indebted to Messrs 
 Hayes, of Lower Edmonton, who grow not less than 
 10,000 of this lovely flower alone for Covent Garden 
 and other London flower-markets. 
 
 Make two or three sowings of Primula-seed, the first 
 early in March, the second at the end of April, and 
 the third at the end of May. Any time in May will 
 be early enough if they are not wanted in bloom until 
 Christmas; but if required in October and early in 
 November, they must be sown in March, in order to 
 secure good strong plants. To get the seed up suc- 
 cessfully we adopt the following plan : We sow in 
 boxes instead of in pans, as is usually done, as we find 
 from experience that the seed hardly ever comes up 
 round the edges of the pans. The reason is simply 
 this, — the pan absorbs the moisture from the soil, and 
 consequently the seed gets dry, and if once it gets 
 thoroughly dry after it has been soaked through, it 
 will never vegetate afterwards — a result which we have 
 noticed over and over again. Gardeners, who have in 
 general only a small quantity of seed, are very apt to 
 sow it in a small pan ; the result of which is, in many 
 cases, failure in getting up the seed. If sown in a 
 box you do not run so much risk, as the box does 
 not absorb moisture so readily as pans. We sow on 
 very old rotten dung, at least three or four years old, 
 and we sow on the top of the mould — for the dung has 
 now got into that condition — moistening it before the 
 seed is sown ; and when sown, we sprinkle a little 
 silver sand over it — barely enough to cover it. We 
 
HOW TO GROW PRIMULAS. 87 
 
 place a piece of brown paper over the box and keep 
 it moist, never letting the paper get dry if possible, 
 until the seed vegetates, when we remove the paper. 
 Any shady place where there is gentle heat will suit 
 them very well. Our reason for so fully entering into 
 the matter of sowing is, we have repeated complaints 
 of Primula-seed not growing, while, at the same time, 
 it grows with us well enough. 
 
 As soon as the young plants can be handled, we 
 prick them off, putting four into a sixty-sized pot and 
 keeping them close for a week or two, until they get 
 hold of the pots, sprinkling them two or three times 
 a-day. As soon as the plants have become strong 
 enough, we divide them and pot them off into small 
 sixty-sized pots, and still keep them close in a frame, 
 sprinkling as before two or three times a-day, and 
 when we find them getting established, we give them 
 more air. When it is found that they require it we 
 give them a shift into forty-eight or thirty-two sized 
 pots, according to the size which it may be desired 
 ultimately to have the plants. If they should indicate 
 symptoms of blooming in August or September, we 
 generally pick the flowers off, an operation which 
 gives the plants strength. 
 
 The soil which we prefer for Primulas is well-rotted 
 leaf-mould or dung, and mellow loam, mixed in equal 
 parts, with a little silver sand. We keep them in a 
 shady situation during sunny weather, but we do not 
 shade them if that can be avoided — that is, we do not 
 cover them over with mats, as that tends to " draw," 
 and make them weakly instead of short, stocky, strong 
 plants. 
 
 The best situation to keep them in during the 
 summer months would be a north house, or a frame 
 under a north wall, or the north side of a plaritationi 
 
88 CULTURAL. 
 
 but not under trees. We would recommend leaving 
 the lights open at night when the weather can be 
 trusted ; but by no means if there is any chance of a 
 storm, as that would prove disastrous to them. For 
 winter flowering you cannot give them too light a 
 situation ; the lighter the house the better, with as 
 little fire-heat as possible, just sufficient to keep oft 
 damp. A little liquid manure, very weak, will be 
 found beneficial when the plants are pot-bound. 
 
 THE WINDOW-GARDEN IN WINTER. 
 
 At this dull season of the year most window-gardens, 
 both inside and out, are at their worst. Geraniums, 
 Fuchsias, and all the other showy flowering plants of 
 the warm summer and autumn months, are now out of 
 bloom, and stored away in their winter quarters : still 
 there is no reason why the window or balcony garden 
 should be unattractive, especially as at this season 
 vegetation is, as a rule, so scanty in large towns, and 
 a pleasant glimpse of fresh greenness here and there 
 serves to attract the weary eye seeking relief from 
 the everlasting sameness of bare walls and muddy 
 thoroughfares. 
 
 Inside the window we have foliage plants, as Ficus 
 elastica, Acacia lophanta. Aspidistra elatior, and its 
 variegated form A. elatior variegata. Aloe frutescens, 
 one of the most graceful of all the species, and one of 
 the finest of all succulents for windows. Crassula 
 lactea is another fine old succulent plant that will 
 grow in any window where frost is excluded, and bears 
 numerous branched spikes of its milk-white, star- 
 shaped flowers. Other flowering plants, as Coronilla 
 glauca, a free-flowering plant for winter window-cul- 
 
THE WINDOW-GARDEN IN WINTER. 89 
 
 ture, pots of hardy Primroses, Hyacinths in pots or 
 glasses, Crocuses in pots or baskets, and numerous 
 other old and well-tried subjects, may be made avail- 
 able by all who love window-gardening as a pursuit, 
 and have the energy requisite to carry out the project. 
 It is a mistake to keep " leggy" or rambling fuchsias 
 and leafless geraniums in the room window all through 
 the winter months, since nice bushy little plants, in 
 full flower, may be purchased for a few pence in the 
 spring ; and this is far better than keeping an assem- 
 blage of half-withered specimens covered with dust — 
 a system often prevalent, and one that does much 
 towards staying the progress of window-gardening as 
 one of the domestic decorative arts for the embellish- 
 ment of tasteful dwellings. As soon as window-plants 
 cease to be ornamental, they should be removed to 
 their winter quarters, or thrown away in the case of 
 common kinds. Succulent plants are permanent in 
 their character, and look nearly as well during the 
 winter as in summer. Agaves, Gasterias, Sempervi- 
 vums, Echeverias, Echinocactus, and Mammillarias, 
 are especially suitable for indoor decoration all the 
 year round. Isolepis gracilis, and the blue-leaved 
 Festuca glauca, are both worth growing in the window 
 during winter; and the above, together with a few 
 Primulas and Cyclamens, will be amply sufficient to 
 keep the inside of the window fresh and gay. 
 
 The window-boxes and balcony outside are easily 
 made attractive with a few simple hardy plants neatly 
 arranged. Crowded arrangements here as elsewhere 
 should be avoided, a few distinct ornamental shrubs 
 and climbers judiciously arranged for effect being 
 amply sufficient. A neat and tasteful design for a 
 window-box outside during the winter months is that 
 we here figure. A plant of Common Ivy is planted 
 
90 
 
 CULTURAL. 
 
 at either end of the box, and trained over a wire hoop : 
 it forms a neat ornamental arch. The central plant 
 below is Retinospora ericoides, but any other tapering 
 shrub, as Thuja aurea or T. Donniana, may be used 
 instead. The plants on either side are Golden Varie- 
 
 A simple Window-Garden in Winter. 
 
 gated Euonymus, which contrast well either with a Blue 
 Juniper in the centre, or the fresh green foliage of the 
 Ivy above. The surface of the box may be covered 
 with any dwarf trailing-plants, as the mossy Saxifra- 
 ges, Arabis albida, or its variegated forrtis, Aubrietia 
 purpurea, or the fresh-green Sedum acre (Common 
 
THE WINDOW -GARDEN IN WINTER. 
 
 91 
 
 Stonecrop), all of which are suitable. A few. bulbs 
 of Crocus, Snowdrops, Scillas, Hyacinths, and Acon- 
 ites may be inserted, as these will brighten up the box 
 during the first sunny days of spring before it is time 
 to plant the ordinary summer flowering-plants. In 
 some cases the Ivy arch may be left during the sum- 
 mer, as it forms a fresh background for the Canary 
 
 
 Winter Balcony Garden. 
 
 Creeper (Tropseolum peregrinum) or the Purple Morn- 
 ing Glory (Convolvulus major), besides contrasting 
 well with the flowering-plants below. Balconies look 
 extremely well during the winter months draped with 
 Ivy, and one of the prettiest combinations we have 
 seen for some time is that we here figure. This con- 
 sists of four healthy plants of Yucca recurva, planted 
 
92 CULTURAL. 
 
 in ornamental vases, the balustrades in front being 
 covered with fresh green Ivy, which is planted in boxes 
 of soil on the balcony itself. In some cases it is possible 
 to plant the Ivy in the border below, training it up 
 the house until it reaches the balcony. Irish Ivy or 
 Hedera algeriense are best for this purpose, being 
 quick growers. A glance at our illustration will give 
 a good idea of this pretty group, which is allowed to 
 remain all the year. During the summer months a 
 few flowering-plants, introduced here and there, serve 
 to brighten up the whole, the completeness of \hepike 
 de resistance rendering more than a few superfluous. 
 Any other hardy shrubs, as green and variegated 
 Hollies, Aucubas, Thujas, and Retinosporas, may be 
 used in conjunction with green and variegated Ivies 
 with good effect. The above arrangements are simple, 
 and very effective, while they come within the means 
 of any one who has the convenience for a window or 
 balcony garden, however small. 
 
 HINTS ON HYBRIDISING. 
 
 New flowers produce an indescribable pleasure, and 
 it is one which any one with a garden, or even a few 
 pot-plants in a window or cool frame, may enjoy. In 
 some parts of Lancashire and the north of England, 
 Auriculas, Tulips, Pansies, Hollyhocks, and other hardy 
 flowers are much grown by working men or artisans, 
 and some of the finest show varieties of these flowers 
 have originated in cottage gardens. Even the colliers 
 in many of the midland districts grow enthusiastic 
 when dilating on the properties of some new florist 
 flowers which they have raised ; while the numerous 
 skilled artisans in towns, such as Coventry or Notting- 
 
HINTS ON HYBRIDISING. 93 
 
 ham, are well known as most excellent cultivators of 
 nearly all kinds of hardy vegetables as well as florist 
 flowers. In the raising of new varieties there are a 
 few leading principles which must be borne in mind ; 
 for example, species or varieties of the same genus 
 can only be crossed with each other with advantage ; 
 and, if possible, always make the best-habited plant 
 the seed-bearing parent. A plant of bad general 
 habit or weak constitution often bears a richly-colour- 
 ed or finely-fqrmed flower, and by crossing this with 
 another variety possessing poor flowers but a robust 
 constitution, an improvement on both parents may be 
 looked for among the seedlings. The operation of 
 crossing, or, more properly speaking, fertilising, one 
 flower with another, is simple enough, all that is re- 
 quired, as a rule, being two parent plants in such a 
 condition as to enable the operator to convey the 
 pollen of one flower, or variety, to the tip of the style 
 or stigma of the other. This operation can be effected 
 readily by means of a moist camel's-hair brush or 
 pencil. Some plants cannot be fertilised with pollen 
 from their own flowers ; but there are others that are 
 much too susceptible of fertilisation, and this often 
 puzzles amateurs, who imagine that they have crossed 
 flowers with the pollen of another form, when the 
 same have been fertilised with their own pollen days 
 before, and consequently the result is disappointing. 
 In order to prevent this, it is well to clip off" the 
 anthers or little cases that contain the pollen of the 
 seed-bearing plant directly the flowers expand, taking 
 care not to cut or bruise the stigma when so doing. 
 For the latter process, a pair of small sharp-pointed 
 scissors is the best. The action of the pollen 
 on the stigma is very singular and interesting. 
 The pollen -grains, soon after being placed on the 
 
94 CULTURAL. 
 
 glutinous apex of the style, throw out slender tubes, 
 which pass down the loose cellular tissue of the style 
 until they reach the embryo ovules or seeds, con- 
 tained in the ovary or seed-vessel below. Having 
 reached these, and fertilised them by emitting the 
 fluid contents of the pollen - grain above, their use 
 ceases, and they soon become dried up, together with 
 the superfluous end of the style, while the young 
 seeds, or such of them as have come in contact with 
 the pollen-tubes, begin to swell and ripen. In some 
 cases only one or two out of the twenty or thirty 
 embryo seeds in each seed-vessel become fertilised 
 and swell off, while the others come to nothing. A 
 very little practical experience will enable any one 
 to fertilise and raise seedlings from their favourite 
 flowers, while researches in this way may lead to 
 valuable results. Comparatively few horticulturists 
 have as yet devoted themselves to hybridisation, 
 but the results obtained are very remarkable. We 
 have only to look at the new Peas of Laxton or Dr 
 M'Lean, the Orchids of Dominy, or the many beau- 
 tiful varieties of Cyclamen, Pelargonium, Gladioli, 
 Asters, and other florist flowers now common to our 
 gardens, in order to fully recognise the beneficial 
 results which are to be obtained by studying and 
 working out this subject as far as means will permit. 
 To be able to render a flower more beautiful, or to 
 enhance the excellence or ameliorate the flavour of a 
 new fruit or vegetable, is something worth attempting, 
 as such a result not only benefits its producer at the 
 time, but is the means of handing down to posterity 
 a great and lasting good. 
 
CALENDAR. 95 
 
 CALENDAR OF WINDOW-GARDENING OPERATIONS, 
 ETC. 
 
 January. — Be particularly careful in watering, and 
 expose your plants to the sun as much as possible. 
 Keep succulents, as Agaves, Aloes, Echeverias, Sem- 
 pervivums, Cereuses, and Sedums quite drj', and place 
 them in a sunny position. The most effectual plan 
 to adopt if you wish to kill succulent plants, is to keep 
 them wet during the dull winter months. Crocus, 
 Snowdrops, and Christmas Roses will now be in 
 flower. Hyacinths potted or placed in glasses or 
 indoor baskets in September or October will now be 
 showing colour. Hanging-baskets planted with Ivy 
 and spring-flowering bulbs will now be very pleasing 
 ornaments for the sitting-room. Chrysanthemums, 
 more especially the Pompone class, will now be 
 flowering freely, and their golden-yellow, purple, or 
 crimson flowers will enliven your room or window for 
 several weeks to come. Acacia lophanta is now as 
 fresh as possible, and its lively green foliage contrasts 
 well with Chrysanthemums and spring - flowering 
 bulbs. Ferns and Selaginellas in close cases will 
 now require less water, although the soil must be 
 kept moderately moist. Carefully protect all your 
 tender indoor plants from frost, and pick off all de- 
 cayed foliage and flowers. Sponge the leaves of 
 Dracaenas, Ivy, Ficus, and other hard-leaved foliage- 
 plants, so as to keep them clean and free from dust. 
 Sow seeds of Lobelia speciosa and Pyrethrum Golden 
 Feather in pots indoors, as these make nice plants 
 for the window-boxes in May. Examine the bulbs 
 plunged outside in September, and select the forward- 
 est, which should have their pots washed, and then be 
 
g6 CULTURAL. 
 
 brought inside to throw up their spikes in succession. 
 The flowers now in season are Tulips, Crocuses, and 
 Hyacinths. Then there are Callas, with their great 
 trumpet - shaped white flowers; spring Heaths, and 
 Chinese Primroses, with blossoms large and richly 
 coloured ; Cyclamens, too, with which everybody is 
 delighted ; Camellias and Azaleas ; and last, but not 
 least, pretty little bushes of Deutzia gracilis, loaded 
 with blossoms that vie in purity with those of the 
 Snowdrop itself. Among sweet-scented flowers are 
 Lily of the Valley, Violets, Mignonette, and Wall- 
 flowers ; and among berry-bearing plants are diffierent 
 sorts of Solanum capsicastrum, thickly covered with 
 orange-red fruit, each as large as a good-sized marble. 
 Other things consist of Acacias, Astilbe (Spiraea) ja- 
 ponica. Begonias, Christmas Roses, Cinerarias, Nar- 
 cissus, Snowdrops, Eranthis hyemalis. Pelargoniums, 
 Poinsettias, and Roses. 
 
 February. — Many of the operations this month will 
 be the same as those recommended for January. If 
 your old Fuchsia stumps, kept through the winter, are 
 now breaking freely, you can put in a few cuttings, 
 preparing the pot as recommended under "Propaga- 
 tion." A few of the earliest of half-hardy and hardy 
 annuals may also now be sown, the former in pots 
 (see " Propagation by Seed "), and the latter in a 
 sheltered position along a sunny border, or under a 
 south wall. Those sown outside will need some 
 slight protection during frosty nights, and may either 
 be covered up with a mat or with a common hand- 
 light, over which a little straw or litter may be shaken. 
 Always bear in mind the fact that bright sunshine is 
 fatally dangerous to plants that have been frozen the 
 night before. The best treatment for frozen plants is 
 
CALENDAR. 97 
 
 to syringe them with cold water and shade them from 
 the sun. Hyacinths and Crocuses, Aconites, Arabis, 
 and early Primroses will now be flowering. Sow 
 seeds of Perilla, Amaranthus, Stocks, and Mignonette. 
 Also half-hardy climbers, as Cobcea scandens, Maur- 
 andia, Thunbergia, Momordica, Tricosanthes, Phaseo- 
 lus, and Convolvulus, all of which will be very orna- 
 mental on the balcony, or for draping window-trellises 
 during the summer. Sow Cyclamen-seed in a close 
 case. 
 
 Of flowers there is now great abundance, and 
 some tastefully got up bouquets, consisting of 
 white Camellias, which are invariably used as centre- 
 pieces; spikes of Orchids, Tea Roses, Maiden -hair, 
 Ferns, Violets, Epiphyllums, Tropseolums, Snow- 
 drops, Pelargoniums, Eucharis, Mignonette, Orchids, 
 a;nd Orange-blossoms. Among other flowers we may 
 notice Fuchsias, Bouvardias, Chinese Primulas, and 
 P. denticulata ; Cyclamens in fine condition, Dielytra 
 spectabilis, Deutzia gracilis, Spirsea japonica. Zonal 
 and fancy Pelargoniums, Cytisus, Camellias, Ghent 
 and other Azaleas, Heaths, Cinerarias, Lilacs, Acacias, 
 Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Callas, Crocuses, Tulips, 
 Narcissus, Hyacinths, Anemones, Polyanthuses, 
 Arabis, Hepaticas, and Aconites. Amongst sweet- 
 scented flowers are Violets, Tea and China Roses, 
 Mignonette, Lily of the Valley, Orange-blossoms, 
 Sweet Bay, and sweet-smelling Orchids. 
 
 March.— Most kinds of hardy and half-hardy an- 
 nuals, perennials, and herbaceous plants must be pro- 
 pagated from seeds grown in pots, or the hardiest 
 may be sown on a sunny border. Those sown now 
 in pots or boxes will be fit for planting out in the 
 window-boxes or on the balcony early in May, where 
 
 G 
 
98 CULTURAL. 
 
 they will flower all the summer. The following should 
 now be sown in pots or small boxes, and placed in a 
 frame or in a Wardian case to germinate : Mignonette, 
 Asters, German Stocks, Balsams, Cockscombs, French 
 Marigolds, Zinnias, Larkspurs, Sweet Peas, and Ta- 
 getes pumila. If there is convenience for a hotbed, 
 covered with a common i or 2 light frame, it will be 
 found very handy, both for raising seedlings in the 
 early spring months, and also for growing plants dur- 
 ing the summer. A Wardian case indoors is the next 
 best contrivance. 
 
 Now is a good time to clear out and replant Fern- 
 cases for the summer, that is, if they require it. The 
 best Ferns to use are the following: Adiantum as- 
 simile, A. capillus veneris, Asplenium flabelliforme, 
 Aspidium molle, Pteris serrulata (and its crested 
 variety), P. longifolia, P. cretica albo-lineata, P. trem- 
 ula, Cyrtomium falcatum, Niphobolus lingua, Lomaria 
 lanceolata, Doodia caudata, D. lunulata, and D. aspera, 
 Lygodium japonicum (scandens), Dicksonia antarctica, 
 when in a small state ; Polystichum lonchites (Holly 
 Fern), and Lycopodium dendroideum. A piece or 
 two of the common small-leaved wood Ivy may be 
 inserted, and if it grows too freely cut it back with the 
 knife. Selaginellas grow freely in close cases, the. best 
 for the purpose being S. hortensis, S. Martensii (and 
 its variegated form), S. atro-virens, S. umbrosa (ery- 
 thropus), S. Braunii, S. serpens, S- apoda (densa), and 
 S. ccesia. The last-named comes of a bright steel 
 blue when grown freely in a moist shady position. 
 Some very pretty cases may be arranged with the 
 above plants, and some of our own native mosses may 
 be added. Cyperus alternifolius is distinct and effec- 
 tive as a centre plant. Many lovely spring flowers 
 will now be blooming freely. 
 
CALENDAR. 99 
 
 The flowers in season chiefly consist of Hyacinths 
 and Tulips, Cinerarias, among which dark blues pre- 
 vail ; Spring Heaths (E. gracilis), Epacrises, Azaleas, 
 Spiraea (Hoteia) japonica, Cyclamens, Fuchsias, Pelar- 
 goniums, of many kinds. Cut-flowers of Orchids and 
 other things are also abundant. Bouquets consist of 
 white Camellias or some light-coloured Tea Rose as a 
 centre-piece, about which are tastefully arranged Lily 
 of the Valley, Cyclamens, Mignonette, light-coloured 
 Orchids, wired "pips" of white Hyacinths, Heliotropes, 
 the jasmine-flowered Bouvardia, blue Cinerarias, and 
 Pelargoniums, edged with Maiden-hair Fern, sprays of 
 which also pervade the whole of the bouquet. " But- 
 ton-holes," backed by sprigs of Ferns, consist of pink, 
 white, and yellow Tea Roses, in front of which are 
 placed double red Pelargoniums. In others are sprays 
 of Spiraea, a white Rosebud, and a bit of red Pelar- 
 gonium, or some red-coloured Pink ; others, again, 
 consist solely of a white Pink set on a green back- 
 ground. 
 
 April. — Hardy shrubs in pots which have been used 
 for the decoration of windows or balconies through 
 the winter may now be removed and plunged in the 
 open borders until required again in the autumn. 
 Many hardy bulbs and tuberous-rooted spring flowers 
 which have been plunged in a bed of ashes or in 
 the open borders, as recommended for Colchicums, 
 will now be throwing up their flowers, and may be 
 removed to the window. These consist of Scillas, 
 Hyacinths, Tulips, Jonquils, Narcissus, Iris, especially 
 the small-growing varieties ; Aubrietia purpurea, A. 
 grseca, Wallflowers and Anemones, will also now be in 
 bloom. Early-flowering bulbs, as Crocuses, Snowdrops, 
 and Hyacinths, which have been flowering in hanging- 
 
100 CULTURAL. 
 
 baskets indoors, may now be removed and planted in 
 borders outside, their place being supplied with other 
 plants for summer blooming. Cuttings of Coleus, 
 Fuchsias, Alternantheras, Mesembryanthemums, and 
 many other soft-wood ed plants, may now be inserted 
 in prepared cutting-pots (see " Propagation"), surfaced 
 with sand. Sow seeds of Stocks, Tropaeolums, Mig- 
 nonette, Saponaria calabrica, Antirrhinums, Lupins, 
 Delphiniums, and all the ornamental grasses. Water 
 more freely ; look out for insect-pests (see " Noxious 
 Insects"); strike cuttings from all your best Chrys- 
 anthemums. Sow ornamental Gourds in pots of light 
 earth, so as to get them forward ready for planting out 
 on the balcony in May. See after plants of Ampe- 
 lopsis Veitchii and A. hederacea (Virginian Creeper), 
 Ivies both green and variegated, Clematis, Passiflora 
 cserulea, Wistaria Sinensis, and other hardy climbers, 
 for planting in front of the house or in the balcony 
 and window-boxes. Sow Indian Corn (Zea Mays) in 
 boxes of light rich earth; 
 
 Flowers are now in great variety, amongst which 
 are charming sprays of Orchids, Stephanotis, White 
 Lilac, Guelder Rose, Roses, Callas, beautifully 
 bloomed ; Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus, still fine, 
 especially the Hyacinths; Solomon's Seal, a plant 
 whose beauty is enhanced by being forced ; Lily of 
 the Valley ; nice Amaryllids, Gardenias, Mignonette, 
 Cinerarias, single and double Zonal Pelargoniums, 
 spring Heaths, Azaleas, Camellias, Rhododendrons, 
 Acacias, Cytisus, Spiraeas, Tropaeolums, Carnations, 
 Fuchsias, Deutzias, double -flowering Stocks, Cycla- 
 mens, Chinese Primulas. In addition to these, plants 
 of Dracaenas, both with green and coloured leaves. 
 Begonias, Palms, Ferns in the form of the Maiden- 
 hair, and some of the more graceful kinds of Pteris ; 
 
CALENDAR. 10 1 
 
 also various kinds of Club-mosses, such as S. apoda, 
 Kraussiana, and Martensii ; plain and variegated kinds 
 of Box, Aucuba, Thujas, &c. There is likewise a 
 good variety of flowers from the open air, such as 
 double red Daisies, Forget-me-nots, Pansies, Prim- 
 roses, Anemones, Daffodils, Hepaticas, Gentians, Vio- 
 lets, Wallflowers, and others. 
 
 May. — Cuttings may still be inserted of soft-wooded 
 bedding - plants for the balcony, as Alternanthera, 
 Coleus, Iresine, Fuchsias ; while Sweet-williams, her- 
 baceous Phloxes and herbaceous and border plants, 
 may be propagated by division. Sow seeds of Mig- 
 nonette, ornamental Grasses, Stocks, Wallflowers, 
 and other annuals and biennials for blooming next 
 spring. Also sow Tropseolums, as T. Lobbii, T. per- 
 egrinum (Canary flower), often miscalled T. canariense. 
 Convolvulus, Maurandia, and other ornamental climb- 
 ers, in your window and balcony boxes. Annuals sown 
 now in the open air will flower equally well, but later 
 than those sown in pots, cases, or frames in March as 
 recommended. It is now a good time to make up out- 
 door hanging-baskets for the balcony, using for this 
 purpose Lobelia speciosa. Ivy- leaved Pelargoniums 
 (Geraniums), common Irish or small-leaved Ivies, 
 Linaria cymbalaria. Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia), 
 Musk (Mimulus moschatus), and hardy Ferns. The 
 larger the baskets are the better, as a good body of 
 soil keeps in a more equable state of moisture, and 
 does much in promoting success. Some plant of 
 distinct and striking outline should be planted for 
 a centre, and one of the best plants for this purpose 
 is a small American Aloe (Agave Americana), or 
 its variegated variety. Yuccas are also well adapted 
 for this purpose, and may be used with good effect. 
 
102 CULTURAL. 
 
 Flowers will now be abundant and of excellent quality. 
 Those in pots consist chiefly of Pelargoniums of all 
 classes, well flowered, and herbaceous Calceolarias, 
 charmingly marked and well grown ; Gardenias, in- 
 dispensable on account of their sweetness ; Golden- 
 rayed Lilies; graceful little Fuchsias; spring-flowering 
 Heaths in great variety ; Roses of most kinds, more 
 especially the pretty dwarf Chinese sorts ; and many 
 other plants of interest. To these may be added fine- 
 leaved plants such as Dracsnas, Ferns (principally 
 Adiantums), graceful kinds of Pteris and Polypodium, 
 Palms, Cyperuses, and Club-mosses. Bouquet-flowers 
 mostly consist of light-coloured Tea Roses, Stephano- 
 tis, white Azaleas, blue Cinerarias, double-flowering 
 Stocks, sprays of various Orchids, Gardenias, Lily of 
 the Valley, Ferns, &c. Button-holes include a Gar- 
 denia flower with a few leaves ; light Rose with leaf; 
 red Pink ; spray of Lily of the Valley and Fern ; 
 Stephanotis and Fern ; Hoya, cluster of flowers, and 
 Fern; Nemophila, and a few other flowers worked 
 into them. Hardy plants are now in great plenty ; 
 amongst them are Pansies, Sweet-williams, Stocks, 
 Alyssum, blue Gentians, double - flowering Ranun- 
 culuses, Mimuluses, Carnations ; also, Tropaeolums, 
 Sweet Peas, and other plants of similar kinds. 
 
 June. — A few early annuals will now be blooming 
 freely. China Roses in small pots are very pretty. 
 Syringe plants freely if infested with green-fly, which 
 is very common at this season of the year. Ech- 
 everias, Mesembryanthemums, and Phyllocactus will , 
 now be in flower, and should have a sunny position. 
 Cuttings of new or rare Geraniums, Fuchsias, Helio- 
 tropes, and many other soft-wooded plants, may now 
 be struck much more freely than in autumn. Fuchsias 
 
CALENDAR. I03 
 
 Struck from cuttings this time last year will now be 
 fine blooming plants, and will be succeeded by those 
 struck during the spring of this year (April). Lily of 
 the Valley in pots will now be very pretty along with 
 the graceful, soft, rosy-flowered Dielytra. Calceo- 
 larias, both herbaceous and shrubby, will now be 
 blooming freely. Cuttings of the latter may be in- 
 serted on a little bed of light earth, surfaced with 
 sand, in any shady corner. Tie Chrysanthemums 
 neatly to slender green-painted sticks to prevent 
 damage from winds, and do not let them want for 
 water or they will lose their lower leaves and look un- 
 sightly. Plunge all spring-flowering bulbs and shrubs 
 in the open border (if not done already) and water 
 them well in dry weather. Those bulbs which have 
 not already flowered, as Lilies, should be watered 
 regularly and neatly tied ; as their buds develop, lift 
 them carefully and wash the pots previous to their 
 removal to the room or balcony. Carefully attend to 
 annuals and grasses in pots ; watering, staking, thin- 
 ning, and weeding as may be required. Succulents, 
 as Echeverias, Phyllocactus, Agaves, and Cereus, may 
 now be placed on a sunny border or balcony outside, 
 if not in flower. Bear in mind that nearly all the 
 plants herein described grow as freely outside as 
 indoors during the summer. The principal excep- 
 tions are tender Ferns, and those plants recommended 
 for Wardian cases. 
 
 Amongst flowers for bouquets, Eucharis, Stephano- 
 tis, Gardenias, Tea and Moss Roses, Ixias, Sparaxis, 
 Pinks, and blue Cornflower, play a prominent part. 
 Hardy flowers of all kinds are plentiful, and pot-plants 
 are attractive. Amongst the latter are Lilies, Fuchsias, 
 Hydrangeas, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, both show 
 and bedding varieties ; Heaths, Azaleas, Petunias, 
 
104 CULTURAL. 
 
 Musk, Sweet Peas, and Pansies. These last are 
 grown in small 60 or 48 sized pots : and in addition to 
 the flowering-plants, there are various ornamental 
 plants with beautiful foliage, such as nice little Palms, 
 Pandanus, Cyperus, Ficus, Aralia, Dracsnas, Begon- 
 ias, Ivies of sorts, hardy Ferns, and Virginian Creeper. 
 Many of the much-neglected succulents make pretty 
 pot-plants, and may now be obtained. The tenderest 
 kinds grow well in a dry Wardian case placed at a 
 sunny window ; but there are many that require even 
 less protection. 
 
 July. — During this month flowers will be plentiful ; 
 and consist of Cockscombs, Japanese Lilies, Fuchsias, 
 Geraniums, and Hydrangeas. Annuals, as Asters, 
 Phlox, Balsams, Celosias, Acrocliniums, Rhodanthes, 
 Helichrysums, and ornamental Grasses, are also very 
 pretty. For dinner-table decorations and bouquets we 
 have Asters, Cornflower, Pentstemons, white Water- 
 lilies, Cyclamens, Roses, and many other flowers. 
 Plants will now require careful attention and constant 
 watering during hot dry weather. Sow Mignonette 
 in pots for winter flowering, and put in cuttings of 
 Geraniums, Fuchsias, and other bedding-plants. Show 
 pr fancy Pelargoniums that have done blooming 
 should be placed outside, and carefully pick off" 
 decayed leaves, flowers, or seed-vessels from those 
 plants which remain. Climbers, as Tropaeolums, Cle- 
 matis, Hop-plant, Cissus antarctica. Ivies, Virginian 
 Creepers, Maurandia, Passion-flower, and Myrsi- 
 phyllum, should be trained in neatly, or allowed to 
 droop in graceful folds from the window-trellis or 
 balcony. Ferns and Selaginellas should be syringed 
 daily with soft or rain water. Destroy insects directly 
 they appear, and occasionally sponge the foliage of 
 
CALENDAR. 105 
 
 Ficus, Cissus, and Aralias, to remove dust and add to 
 their freshness and health. Those plants that are 
 grown inside the window should have air daily, and 
 should be turned occasionally to prevent their " draw- 
 ing " to the light and becoming one-sided. Look to 
 Azaleas and other plants outside, and syringe them 
 occasionally to keep down red-spider. Plants set out- 
 side should have a layer of coke-ashes to stand on, or 
 worms will work their way into the bottoms of the 
 pots, and prove a great nuisance. If they are trouble- 
 some already, a dose of lime-water will clear them 
 out Prick off or pot the young Cyclamens sown in 
 the spring, using a compost of sandy loam and leaf- 
 mould with the addition of one-fourth well-rotted 
 manure. Plants in pots consist chiefly of Pelar- 
 goniums, Cockscombs and other Celosias, Gladioli, 
 Japan Lilies, Fuchsias, yellow Calceolarias, Petunias, 
 and a few ornamental-leaved Dracaenas, Crotons, 
 Palms, Ferns, little Conifers, Myrtles, and other ever- 
 green shrubs. One of the prettiest of flowering-plants 
 at present is Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, the 
 white frothy-like flowers of which are produced in 
 great abundance, and contrast admirably with the 
 brilliant scarlet blossoms of Vallota purpurea, fine 
 plants of which are coming largely into market. Of 
 cut -flowers, both from out and in doors, there is a 
 good supply; and it is astonishing to see in the 
 market at this season such quantities of Fern-roots 
 as are to be seen in it daily. Asters form the chief 
 feature, and they are particularly well grown ; for 
 each plant in a 48-sized pot is furnished with from 
 six to nine blooms. Oleanders, too, though only 
 about a foot in height, are each surmounted by 
 one or two spikes of beautifully-developed flowers. 
 Solanum capsicastrum, covered with brilliant scarlet 
 
106 CULTURAL. 
 
 berries, has just made its appearance ; and there are 
 still plenty of Gladioli, Japan Lilies, Vallota, Begonia 
 Weltoniensis, Bouvardia jasminiflora. Pelargoniums 
 Fuchsias, and a various assortment of dwarf ever- 
 greens, little Conifers, Dracaenas, Ferns, and Selagi- 
 nellas. Cut-flowers consist of late kinds of Roses, 
 a few Orchids, and blooms of other plants already 
 mentioned. 
 
 August. — Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are amongst the 
 most effective of all window or balcony plants, and are 
 now very beautiful. Epiphyllums may be grafted, on 
 stocks of Pereskia, Opuntia, or Cereus, and placed in 
 the close case. Coleus, Iresine, and Alternantheras 
 are now very pretty, the foliage being richly coloured. 
 Sponge Dracaenas and Agaves, and syringe Ferns. 
 Now is a good time to commence collecting and 
 drying fronds for winter decoration. Window-boxes 
 planted with blue Lobelia, Dactylis variegata, Poa 
 trivialis variegata, Iresine Herbstii, Coleus, Mesem- 
 bryanthemums, or Portulaccas, and surfaced with 
 fresh green Selaginella hortensis, are very showy. 
 They may be varied by the introduction of choice 
 succulents, margined with Isolepis gracilis, one of 
 the most useful of all decorative plants. For table- 
 decoration we have Dracaena rubra, D. congesta or 
 D. terminalis, Ficus elastica. Yucca aloifolia variegata 
 or "quadricolor," and small-growing but elegant Palms. 
 Train climbers, pick off all decayed leaves, and 
 water carefully where required. Cobcea scandens and 
 Eccremocarpus scaber are now blooming along with 
 the beautiful blue Passiflora ccerulea (Passion-flower). 
 Heliotropes, Mignonette, Aloysia citriodora, and 
 other sweet-scented plants in small pots, are plentiful. 
 Asters are now coming in in good condition. They 
 
CALENDAR. 10/ 
 
 are carefully lifted from the open ground and potted 
 into small pots a few days before they are used. 
 Fuchsias, Lilies of various kinds, the brilliant scarlet 
 Scarborough Lily (Vallota), little Ferns, Lycopods, 
 and small Conifers, still continue to make up the 
 supply. White Asters figure largely in some of the 
 bouquets, along with Tea Roses, Bouvardias, Rhyn- 
 chospermum, Orchids, Maiden-hair Ferns, and Grasses. 
 Small Myrtles and Conifers, Euonymus, and other 
 evergreens, find a ready sale. Large consignments of 
 wreaths, crosses, and bouquets of Everlastings or Im- 
 mortelles,are received from the Continent at this season. 
 
 September. — The Virginian Creeper is now begin- 
 ning to assume its autumnal tints ; and the common 
 Hop is very ornamental, bearing pale-yellow clusters 
 of flowers among its deep-green lobed leaves. Flowers 
 are still plentiful. Carefully attend to your Chrysan- 
 themums, giving them liberal supplies of manure- 
 water two or three times a-week. Rocliea falcata, 
 Mesembryanthemums of the " M. blandum " section, 
 Sedum (Fabarium) spectabile, Oleanders, and many 
 annuals, will now be in flower. These judiciously and 
 tastefully arranged, along with the general stock of 
 foliage-plants and evergreens, will keep the window 
 gay for several weeks. Nice little plants of Solanum 
 capsicastrum, which have been grown outside during 
 the summer, will now be very ornamental in the 
 window. Their bright orange-coloured berries and 
 deep - green foliage recommend them as general 
 favourites. Look out for your Hyacinth, Crocus, 
 Tulip, and Jonquil (Narcissus) bulbs. In buying 
 bulbs, remember that the largest are not necessarily 
 the best on that account. Choose firm, clean-looking 
 bulbs, and remember that the heaviest are considered 
 
I08 CULTURAL. 
 
 the best. Single Hyacinths will give more satisfaction 
 than double-flowered ones. It is not necessary to 
 give a high price for " named bulbs '' or " new varie- 
 ties," since the older kinds, which cost only a few 
 pence each, are not a. bit the less beautiful, and, 
 indeed, often flower much better. Pot your bulbs as 
 soon as received in turfy loam 5^, leaf-mould ^, 
 rotten manure and coarse sand J^, adding more 
 sand if the soil is not light and open. Water well 
 after potting, and cover them with sand or ashes out 
 of doors. This covering should be two or three 
 inches thick, and not only protects them from early 
 frosts, but prevents their pushing themselves out of 
 the soil when rooting. Cover your bulbs entirely 
 with soil when potting them. Some gardeners re- 
 commend the crown of the bulb to be left above the 
 surface, but it is quite immaterial, since when planted 
 outside in the borders, which are colder and wetter 
 than pots, they are planted two or three inches deep. 
 Some of your largest Hyacinths may be kept and 
 placed in glasses of water. Do not forget to plant a 
 few Crocuses, early Tulips, and Hyacinths in your 
 hanging - baskets for spring - blooming. Now is the 
 time to clear them of all summer-flowering plants 
 that are past their best. Nice winter-baskets may 
 be made up by planting them with succulents, as 
 Echeverias, Sedums, and Sempervivums, and a few 
 fresh evergreen shrubs or trailing-plants. Those best 
 suited for the purpose are Euonymus, of sorts both 
 green and variegated, Ivies, Box, Berberis Darwinii, 
 which bears a profusion of bright orange flowers in 
 the spring ; and around the margins leave spaces, in 
 which insert your bulbs (see chapter on " Hanging- 
 Baskets"). Bulbs of Nerine sarniensis (Guernsey Lily) 
 and Amaryllis belladonna (Belladonna Lily) may 
 
CALENDAR. IO9 
 
 now be bought for a few pence each. Purchase those 
 that are already showing their flower-spikes, and pot 
 them in the compost recommended for Hyacinths. 
 Place them in a frame or in the window, and water 
 regularly. Carefully look over the border or plot 
 where your hardy bulbs in pots, as Crocuses, Dogs- 
 tooth Violet (Erythronium), Grape Hyacinths (Mus- 
 cari), Scillas, and Narcissus, are plunged. Prepare 
 some tall labels and mark each group, so that you 
 will know exactly where they are to be found, in case 
 you wish to force them on before they push through 
 naturally in the spring. 
 
 Flowers. — Vallota purpurea is at present the most 
 brilliant flower in the market : associated with it are 
 Fuchsias, dwarf Chrysanthemums, Begonia Weltoni- 
 ensis. Pelargoniums, Heaths, Cyclamens, and Chinese 
 Primulas. Of cut-flowers there is a goodly supply of 
 Gladioli, white Dahlias and Asters, Violets, single and 
 double Pelargoniums, Rosebuds, Epiphyllums, white 
 Camellias, Tuberoses, Gardenias, Bouvardias, blue 
 Centaureas, Orchids, and many others. There is also 
 the usual quantity of Ferns, Mosses, Palms, and other 
 evergreens. Asters in small pots. Lilies of the L. 
 speciosum type, Mignonette, Balsams, Myrtles, Val- 
 lotas, and foliage-plants, still make up the supply. 
 Small succulent plants, as Aloes, Cereus, Opuntias, 
 and Stapelias, are still obtainable, and recently flower- 
 ing bulbs of the Belladonna and Guernsey Lilies have 
 made their appearance. Some very beautiful wreaths 
 are being made of Immortelles, and very elegant bou- 
 quets are still being composed of Stephanotis, Tube- 
 roses, Jasmine, pink Pelargoniums, and Orchids. A 
 few Violets have made their appearance during the 
 past week, and are valuable for adding to bouquets 
 on account of their delicious fragrance. 
 
no CULTURAL. 
 
 October. — The decorative plants and flowers now in 
 season are plentiful, and consist of variegated Ivies, 
 Euonymus, Aspidistra, and other foliage-plants ; Fu- 
 chsias, Vallotas, Bouvardias, Asters, Roses, Violets, 
 Cyclamens, Camellias, Eucharis, blue Cornflower, 
 HelichrysumSj Gomphrena, Rhodanthe, and other 
 autumn-flowering everlastings. Hardy shrubs in pots 
 for window - boxes consist of Ivies, Aucubas, green 
 and variegated Euonymus, Junipers, Box, Thuja, and 
 Portugal Laurels. Chrysanthemums are now coming 
 into flower, and will last until after Christmas. Little 
 Palms in pots will now be found useful ; and if these 
 have been inured to cool treatment by having been 
 grpwn outside during summer, they will be better for 
 window-culture than those brought suddenly from a 
 hot stove or greenhouse. The best Palms are Corypha 
 australis, Chamaerops humilis, Rhapis flabelliformis, 
 Livistonia borbonica, L. altissima, L. rotundifolia. 
 These, with Chrysanthemums, and other flowering- 
 plants, will give a fresh appearance to the window 
 for two or three months. Sponge over your plants 
 once a-week, especially the Palms, Ficus, Dracaenas, 
 Aspidistra, Curculigo, and others with smooth, hard 
 foliage. 
 
 Many kinds of bulbs and flower-roots may now be 
 purchased, either for indoor or open-air culture. These 
 consist of Anemones, Hyacinths, Muscari, Narcissus, 
 Crocuses, Snowdrops, Cyclamens, Arums, Eranthis, 
 Ranunculus, and others. Many kinds of herbaceous 
 plants are best planted at this season. See about sow- 
 ing annuals, and such other flower-seeds as prosper 
 best when sown in the autumn (see List). Cannas, 
 Dahlias, Wigandias, and other sub-tropical plants, 
 should now be taken up and stored away in sand. 
 In some out-of-the-way places the more hardy kinds 
 
CALENDAR. 1 1 1 
 
 of Cannas need not be taken up, if their roots are well 
 covered over with stable-manure or leaves. Chry- 
 santhemums are now very showy, and should have 
 plenty of air during bright sunny weather, as they 
 are liable to damp. This is the finest of all autumn 
 flowers for the smoky city. Those who have an 
 opportunity, should now look into the gardens of 
 the Inner Temple (Fleet Street, London), and see 
 what can be done with the Chrysanthemum as a 
 florist's flower. 
 
 Bedding-plants are for the most part over ; and 
 all those that show signs of exhaustion had better 
 be removed at once. Now is the time to think of 
 winter window-gardening outside ; and for this pur- 
 pose nothing is better than common or Irish Ivy, as 
 already recommended, together with small Conifers, 
 as Thuja, Juniper, and Retinospora ; while evergreen 
 shrubs, as Aucubas, Euonymus, Portugal Laurels, 
 common Box, and variegated Hollies are invaluable. 
 These things may now be carefully removed from the 
 open borders, and should be planted in the window- 
 boxes, or in tubs on the balcony. 
 
 November. — During the damp and foggy days of 
 this month, give your plants all the light possible, 
 and keep the leaves of both foliage and flowering 
 plants clean by careful sponging with soap and water, 
 or clear water alone. If soap is used, carefully wash 
 off every particle with clean tepid water. Chrysan- 
 themums cleaned and brought into the window, or on 
 the balcony, during fine mild weather, will now be 
 flowering freely. Take up roots of the Christmas 
 Rose (Helleborus niger) and pot them in sandy 
 loam and leaf- mould, ready for removal indoors, 
 when they throw up their white or delicate rosy- 
 
112 CULTURAL* 
 
 tinted flowers. Bring in another little batch of 
 bulbs and roots, as Dielytra, Lily of the Valley, and 
 Spiraea from the sand-bed, so as to keep up a succes- 
 sional supply. Both these plants and spring-flower- 
 ing shrubs, as Prunus, Deutzia, and Persian Lilacs, 
 may be forwarded by placing them in one of Barr's 
 heated plant-cases. This little contrivance, so use- 
 ful to the amateur for striking cuttings or raising 
 seeds, will now be disengaged for a month or two, 
 and cannot be put to a better use than for forwarding 
 spring-flowering plants ; but in this respect they have 
 to receive general treatment, along with the shrubs 
 and spring-flowering bulbs planted with them. The 
 best of all Conifers for balcony decoration are the 
 smooth or glossy-leaved kinds, as these fdo not re- 
 tain the soot deposited on them in smoky positions. 
 Glossy-leaved shrubs and trees always do better in 
 towns than rough or woolly-leaved kinds, simply be- 
 cause they are easily cleaned by sprinkling, and every 
 shower leaves them fresh and free from foreign de- 
 posits. Thuja aurea, T. dolabrata, and T. Donniana, 
 all do well in either rooms or balconies ; but they 
 must be liberally supplied with water, especially dur- 
 ing the hot summer months. My friend Mr Peter 
 Barr grows these very nicely, and regards them as 
 the most valuable of all coniferous plants for room or 
 balcony culture. 
 
 Amongst cut blooms are Roman Hyacinths, a large 
 quantity of Camellias of all colours. Gardenias, Ca- 
 lanthes, Zygopetalums, Cypripediums, and other 
 seasonable Orchids ; Chrysanthemums, of which the 
 whites are always the most in demand, and blue 
 Cinerarias, that have a fine effect when mixed with 
 white flowers in bouquets. Of (forced) white Lilac, 
 there is a goodly quantity in the market, and the 
 
CALENDAR. I13 
 
 white Arums or Trumpet - flowers are also supplied 
 in moderate quantities, as are likewise Zonal and 
 Cape Pelargoniums, Rosebuds, Violets, and Bouvar- 
 dias. Of Indian Daphne there are a few flowers. Pot- 
 plants consist of some very pretty Solanums, well 
 furnished with berries ; nicely flowered little plants 
 of Laurestinus, berry - bearing Aucubas, Heaths, 
 Primulas, Cyclamens, and a large variety of Chrysan- 
 themums. 
 
 December. — Chrysanthemums and winter-flowering 
 Begonias will now be in flower, and, together with 
 hardy evergreens, will keep the window or apartment 
 tolerably gay. Begonias are very useful for window- 
 culture, and their flowers have a beautiful crystalline 
 or frosted appearance under artificial light, like the 
 flowers of the Guernsey Lily, or some Orchid blooms. 
 The best Begonias for winter blooming are the fol- 
 lowing : — 
 
 B. fuchsioides B. insignis B. Dregii B. Weltoniensis 
 
 B. nitida B. erecta raultiflora B. Daviesii B. Wagnerii 
 
 B. Saundersii B. manicata B. Ingramii B. Sedenii 
 
 These grow tolerably well in the window of an apart- 
 ment in which a fire is kept constantly during the 
 coldest part of the year ; but care must be taken not 
 to over-water them, as they are subject to damp off. 
 Isolepis gracilis and Acacia lophanta are now two of 
 the freshest of window foliage-plants. Keep succu- 
 lents, as Agaves, Aloes, Echeverias, Sempervivums, 
 Sedums, Crassulas, and Stapelias, quite dry, and, if 
 possible, give them the sunniest spot in the whole 
 house. Those planted in baskets are fully exposed 
 to the light and sun, and may have a little water 
 occasionally. During very severe frosts, the more 
 tender plants in the windows of unheated apartments 
 
 H 
 
1 14 CULTURAL. 
 
 should be set on the floor every night, and covered 
 with a cloth, so as to protect them from the cold. 
 The choicest of all your plants may be collected to- 
 gether on the approach of sharp weather, and can 
 then be arranged in the windows of apartments where 
 a fire is constantly kept burning; but, even in this 
 case, it is sometimes advisable to set them down and 
 cover them over as above directed, since it is nothing 
 uncommon to have a bright glowing fire at one end 
 of the room and a few degrees of frost at the other. 
 Frost enters most readily at the windows ; so that, 
 during the sharpest of the winter months, it is an 
 excellent plan to arrange your plants on tables which 
 can be set close up to the window during fine sunny 
 weather, and removed to warmer quarters when likely 
 to be injured by severe frost. Be very careful in 
 watering, only giving just sufficient to keep the soil 
 moist, not wet ; and give air during warm sunny 
 weather, so as to dry up superfluous moisture. If 
 bulbs are not yet planted, as already recommended, 
 procure them at once. In most cases they are fifty 
 per cent cheaper than in the commencement of the 
 season. Now is the time to finish planting bulbs in 
 window-boxes and balconies outside for early spring 
 blooming. 
 
 The supply of flowers is quite equal to the demand, 
 and of Orchid blooms there is a good variety, includ- 
 ing the following : Oncidium flexuosum and ser- 
 ratum, Aerides virens, Angraecum sesquipedale and 
 A. eburneum, Odontoglossum Alexandras, O. Hallii, 
 O. luteo-purpureum, O. tripudians, and O. Schlieperi- 
 anum; Calanthes, Zygopetalum Mackayi, Cypripe- 
 dium barbatum, C. villosum, and C. insigne, Ccelo- 
 gyne cristata, and C. speciosa, and the Chinese Re- 
 nanthera coccinea ; of Tulips and Hyacinths, two or 
 
CAtENDAR. 1 1 5 
 
 three are placed in a pot, with a little Fern in the 
 middle, thus presenting a regular bouquet- like ap- 
 pearance. Tastefully-arranged baskets are also filled 
 up with Hyacinths, Tulips, Cyclamens, crowns of 
 Lily of the Valley, and Ferns and Club - mosses ; 
 but as a central object, nothing has a more pleasing 
 effect than the green Cyperus alternifolius. 
 
ii6 
 
 PART II.— ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 We now propose to treat of flowers and plants as do- 
 mestic adornments, they being the most beautiful of 
 all natural objects for this purpose. Flowers are easily 
 obtained by those who desire them, and are looked 
 upon more as necessities than luxuries in many homes 
 of refinement and taste. Beautiful flowers for the 
 hair, or bouquets for evening dress, are now the rule 
 rather than the exception ; and an almost universal 
 love for pearly blossoms and fresh green foliage exists 
 among all classes of society. The rarest and choicest 
 of exotics are used for decorative purposes ; but if 
 these cannot be procured, a handful of common garden 
 blossoms or wild-flowers and grasses may be employed, 
 and, if tastefully grouped, will form pleasing orna- 
 ments. Carefully avoid using too many flowers, as 
 this is the rock on which nearly all our floral decorators 
 split. Place a few Fern fronds, a branch or two of 
 Asparagus, and a spray or two of any elegant Grass, 
 in your vases or stands ; then add the flowers. Prac- 
 tice is the best teacher in the arrangement of floral 
 decorations ; and a very little study will soon suggest 
 
ORNAMENTAL — INTRODUCTION. II ; 
 
 how to employ the best combinations. Crowding in 
 flower after flower indiscriminately, just where there 
 happens to be an open space, must be carefully avoided, 
 and the outline or contour of each blossom must be 
 preserved just as when they are growing. Heavy 
 decorations of flowers, fruit, and foliage, carelessly 
 jumbled together, are now, happily, giving place to a 
 purer and more natural style, in which the flowers are 
 allowed to fall or recline on masses of verdure with 
 all the grace and freedom of nature itself. Slender 
 Palms and elegant Ferns should spring in gentle 
 curves from the snowy cloth, just as if they were 
 growing unrestrained in their native habitats. We 
 should always remember that Floriculture, or the 
 arrangement of floral decorations, is "an art which 
 does mend nature — change it rather ; but the art itself 
 is nature." One of the greatest charms of floral orna- 
 ments and decorations of all kinds is the immense 
 and ever-changing variety of plants and flowers that 
 we can use for the purpose. The importance of floral 
 adornments for the dinner-table, and sweetly-per- 
 fumed blossoms tastefully arranged as domestic or 
 personal ornaments, is duly and deservedly appreci- 
 ated by most of our Horticultural Societies. The 
 introduction of beautiful flowers into our apartments 
 and everyday domestic arrangements has much to 
 recommend it; for we cannot too often feast our 
 eyes on natural beauty, and improve our minds by 
 that close communion with nature which never fails to 
 please us just in proportion to the light that is within. 
 Floral decorations are generally attractive when ar- 
 ranged by tasteful and loving fingers at home ; and 
 if we grow our own flowers as well, we derive addi- 
 tional pleasure and enjoyment from their use as 
 domestic adornments. 
 
Il8 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 BOUQUETS, WREATHS, AND VASE DECORATIONS. 
 
 In every bright and happy home this is peculiarly 
 the ladies' province, and but few of the sterner sex 
 can hope to rival them on their own ground. We 
 may scramble up the fence and bury sharp thorns in 
 our flesh while gathering Roses, or plunge down the 
 steep bank and wade along the muddy margin of the 
 limpid stream while searching for the bright blue 
 Forget-me-nots, or the pearly Water-lilies. We 
 may do all this, but the best of us must pay all due 
 respect to feminine taste in the arrangement of flowers. 
 The finest bouquets in Covent Garden are arranged 
 by ladies, and the chief prizes at all our best floral 
 exhibitions are taken by fair bouquetists ; nor do we 
 envy their well-earned success. In commencing to 
 speak of cut floral decorations, we will first allude to 
 the bouquet. 
 
 Our first experience in this direction dates back to 
 the time of the more antiquated predecessor of our 
 modern bouquet — the old-fashioned posy or nosegay, 
 which, we are pleased to add, may still be seen in all 
 its primitive sweetness at many a simple village bridal. 
 The old posy, or poesy as it is sometimes written, was 
 a thoroughly honest and genuine production — no 
 wires, no millinery, no " flowers on stilts " there, — no- 
 thing but flowers — sweet old-fashioned blossoms, that 
 recall many pleasant memories and associations of by- 
 gone days. The old nosegay was not restricted as to 
 size, nor particularly regular in its arrangement ; but it 
 always included fragrant and bright-coloured flowers: 
 hence the name it bore. To speak of a posy carries 
 us back to quiet country villages where sweet-scented 
 Jasmine ,and Woodbine, purple Clematis and monthly 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. II9 
 
 Roses fight lovingly for a place beside the rustic porch ; 
 while the little plots in front of white thatch-roofed 
 cottages afforded a variety of bright blossoms for the 
 nosegay of the past. Here are the old-fashioned, 
 sweetly-perfumed flowers of our childhood. Scarlet 
 Fuchsias in great patches on each side the little walk, 
 Bachelors' Buttons and Dusty Miller, Stachys or 
 Lamb's-ear, Mignonette, Rosemary " for remembrance," 
 and great Cabbage Roses, tinted like the first blush 
 of innocence and love ; together with red Valerian and 
 great patches of Pinks and Sweet-williams, now, alas ! 
 too rarely seen in modern gardens, so great is the rage 
 for Orchids and glaring " bedders." Pleasant it is to 
 linger amid the flowers of the old-fashioned posy, the 
 make-up of which did not call for much taste, neither 
 did its formation occupy much time. Blossom after 
 blossom was added, with a sprig or two of Mignonette 
 and Rosemary now and then for their grateful frag- 
 rance, the whole being bound round with a piece of 
 string, after which it occupied the place of honour 
 on the best room table. The fragrance of an old- 
 fashioned nosegay always carries our memories a long 
 way backwards over life's rough highway. Again we 
 tread the fragrant rushes strewed by loving fingers 
 over the milk-white stone floor of an old-fashioned 
 parlour in a country farmhouse. It is the Sabbath, 
 the day of rest, and a holy calm seems to have settled 
 over the little thatched cottages of the hillside hamlet. 
 The old mill-wheel is still, and even the rooks in the 
 high elms seem to caw and croak more reverently 
 than is their wont. The cool breeze as it enters the 
 open casement is but just strong enough to fan the 
 fresh incense of the Cabbage Roses and Jasmine 
 into the room, where their fragrant odours mingle 
 with those exhaled by the never-forgotten posy in 
 
120 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 an old brown jug placed on the bright old oak table. 
 We were children then, and with reverent awe listened, 
 as the last gilded rays of the setting sun stole through 
 the old diamond panes, to solemn words read from 
 the Holy Book by the grey-haired shepherd of a little 
 flock now widely separated and scattered in different 
 quarters of the world. Some are dead ; but of those 
 that still live there is at least one who remembers 
 with feelings nearly akin to reverence the posy placed 
 every Sabbath on the simple family altar of bygone 
 days. The modern bouquet is more artificial, and for 
 its formation we not only want choice flowers, but 
 wires and lace-paper, or real lace and ribbons of the 
 finest satin, as the case may be ; while often its fair 
 possessor will enclose its base in a jewelled horn of 
 plenty, the gems of which scintillate and sparkle like 
 all the dews of Golconda combined. 
 
 The flowers suited for bouquet-work are many, and 
 they vary according to the season of the year. Those 
 of graceful form, pure distinct colours, and wax-like 
 consistence, are generally most admired, and the latter 
 are more lasting than flabby thin - petalled kinds. 
 Thick-petalled flowers that will keep some consider- 
 able time after being cut are especially useful for the 
 best bouquets, or such decorations as are mounted on 
 wires. Always dip your cut-flowers, sprays of foliage, 
 and Fern fronds in a vessel of clean water before 
 making them up into either wreaths, dinner-table 
 decorations, or bouquets. This operation adds greatly 
 to their durability. Do not shake them afterwards, 
 as that would cause delicate flowers to drop their 
 petals, but swing them gently backwards and for- 
 wards in the hand, which will dry, them sufficiently 
 without injury. Most flowers commence to droop 
 and wither after being kept in water for twenty-four 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 121 
 
 hours ; a few can be revived by substituting fresh 
 water, and a pinch of saltpetre in it will tend to keep 
 them bright and fresh. But badly-withered flowers 
 can be made fresh by placing them in a cup of boiling 
 hot water, deep enough to cover at least one-third of 
 the stems ; by the time the water has cooled entirely, 
 the flowers will have become bright and erect. Now 
 cut off the ends of the stems about an inch, and place 
 them in cold water, and you will be surprised at the 
 reviving influence of this treatment. Thin-petalled 
 white and light-coloured flowers, however, will not 
 become so fully restored as high-coloured thick-leaved 
 blossoms. As to colours, pure white, blush, pink, rose, 
 lilac, mauve, light and dark blue, scarlet, and crimson 
 are all effective, the two former being best for wedding 
 wreaths and bouquets. Yellow and orange may be 
 used in some cases, or when flowers are scarce ; but 
 these colours are very glaring, especially when con- 
 trasted with purples or bright blue, and require very 
 tasteful handling in order to be really effective and in 
 good keeping. Some flowers are much more effective 
 than others under artificial light, and it is as well to 
 bear this fact in mind when arranging bright-coloured 
 bouquets for ball-rooms or wreaths for ladies' hair. 
 As to the durability of flowers, nearly all the Orchids 
 last and preserve their shape and colour for a long 
 time. The chaste Eucharis (amazonica) grandiflora, 
 one of the finest of all white flowers either for ladies' 
 hair or the centre of a bridal bouquet, will last for 
 several days. Stephanotis and Gardenias keep well, 
 much better than Camellias, which require careful 
 handling, as the least bruise or drop of moisture on 
 the petals spoils their purity. These last should be 
 cut just after opening, as they are apt to shed their 
 petals suddenly, unless very carefully mounted. 
 
122 ' ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 Bouvardias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Tuberoses, and Daphne, 
 are very useful and lasting. Spiraeas, as S. palmata 
 and S. Japonica, the former of a bright rose, the latter 
 white, furnish nice graceful sprays for breaking the 
 stiff outlines made by more formal flowers. Amongst 
 spring - flowering bulbs and forced flowers we have 
 abundant supplies for any purpose. Rosebuds, the 
 Tea-scented kinds, as Saffrano, Gloire de Dijon, 
 Mar^chal Niel, Madame Falcot, and others, being 
 specially attractive. Lily of the Valley, single white 
 and pink Hyacinths, and white Narcissus, are very 
 useful. Hyacinth-pips, when mounted singly on wires, 
 last a long time, and associate well with other choice 
 flowers. Among forced shrubs we have double white 
 Prunus, white and purple Lilacs, Deutzia gracilis, Aca- 
 cias of sorts, and Azaleas, some of the double white 
 varieties of the latter being specially beautiful and 
 durable for bouquets ; sprays of Epacris and Orange 
 blossom (the latter specially for bridal wreaths). Mig- 
 nonette, together with well-developed shoots of Myrtle 
 and light graceful branches of Asparagus scandens, 
 A. consanguinea, or of the elegant glossy-leaved Bos- 
 ton Vine (Myrsiphyllum), now so extensively grown 
 both for cutting and as a window-plant in America. 
 These are very acceptable for either bouquets, wreaths, 
 or for twining round the standards of the march 
 glasses or stands used in table-decorations. Many 
 spring flowers are well adapted for arranging with 
 choice exotics for bouquets, and also for dinner- 
 table decorations. Among these we may specially 
 allude to the Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger), 
 Snowdrops, Crocuses, Hepaticas, Anemones, Scillas, 
 and Narcissus blooms. Flowers of the German 
 and English Iris, when laid neatly on a cool fresh 
 carpet of Selaginella or Fern fronds, are little less 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 123 
 
 effective than the gorgeous Cattleyas and Lseliks of 
 our Orchid -houses. Happily there is an increased 
 taste for lovely spring blossoms and hardy flowers, 
 many of which peep up through the snow and sparkle 
 with all the iridescent hues of the solar spectrum, while 
 even under artificial light they hold their own with 
 the tenderest hothouse flowers. 
 
 Having first selected your flowers, the mechanical 
 part of bouquet-making is simple enough ; but no 
 printed directions will help you much in the matter 
 of that delicate sympathy and refined taste which is 
 of such excellent service to the bouquetist. Many 
 of our lady friends seem to have an innate love for 
 the beautiful, and can no more form a stiff or inhar- 
 monious bouquet than a person with a good ear for 
 music can sing or play out of tune. A little expe- 
 rience in the art itself will teach more than a volume 
 of written instructions. Bouquet-wire, both for stems 
 and very thin for binding, can be purchased at any 
 florist's (who will also show you the best sizes to use), 
 together with a sheet or two of good cotton wool. 
 Have the latter of good quality, as inferior kinds 
 contain large quantities of dust, and will injure deli- 
 cate white flowers. Zonal and fancy Pelargoniums, 
 Camellias, Azaleas, and other flowers, often shed their 
 petals unless touched in the centre with a drop of 
 gum or isinglass — the latter being clearest and best 
 for pure white flowers as Azaleas and Camellias. A 
 bottle of mucilage or isinglass and a camel's -hair 
 pencil should always be kept in readiness for this 
 purpose. Cut your wire into lengths of about six to 
 eight inches (unless bought already cut), and mount 
 the flowers on these by gently inserting one end into 
 the calyx, and pressing it carefully upwards, so as to 
 obtain a firm hold. Now put a little damp cotton 
 
124 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 wool or fresh green moss around the base or- calyx of 
 the flower, and wrap it firmly, but not too tightly, 
 with your thin binding wire, which is sold on reels 
 ready for use. In New York, two thousand barrels of 
 the tree Lycopodium (L. dendroideum) are used every 
 year for bouquet-making and forming wreaths. It is 
 now principally brought from Maine, having become 
 scarce in Connecticut and New York State. 
 
 In mounting Camellias, which are apt to give way 
 and lose their petals, a drop or two of clear isin- 
 glass may be let fall right down the centre of the 
 flower ; do not smear it about with a brush, or the 
 flower will be spoiled. After having wrapped the 
 base of the flower with cotton wool, drop a little 
 isinglass or mucilage between the wool and the backs 
 of the petals, so as to hold the whole firmly together. 
 Having mounted your flowers, select one for the 
 centre. Roses, Gardenias, Eucharis, Pancratium, or 
 Camellias, do very well for this purpose, care being 
 taken to mount them firmly and perfectly straight on 
 the wire. Now arrange the others around this accord- 
 ing to taste either in zones or segments, binding the 
 stem wires firmly as the work of arrangement pro- 
 ceeds. If the bouquet has a tendency to become one- 
 sided, place a thin piece of straight stick to the centre 
 flower to keep it firm. One advantage possessed by 
 wire stems is, that any flower may be placed just 
 where it is required by merely bending the wire 
 between the thumb and the finger. The colours that 
 harmonise best together will soon be learned from 
 experience. Pink or soft rose, and pale -blue Forget- 
 me-nots are always effective, especially if margined 
 with silvery Rhodanthes or other white flowers, and 
 elegantly fringed with either Maiden-hair or Davallia 
 Ferns. Fronds of the Gleichenias are amongst the 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 1 25 
 
 most beautiful of all for either bouquet-work or dinner- 
 table decorations. In selecting either Fern fronds or 
 fresh green spray of any other plants, as Myrsiphyllum, 
 Acacia, Lomatia, or Asparagus, take care to have 
 them thoroughly developed and somewhat hardened, 
 nothing helping to spoil the effect of any floral arrange- 
 ments more than fugacious flowers or foliage. Grasses 
 are amongst the most elegant and durable of all 
 plants, if judiciously arranged among the foliage and 
 flowers. Wire shapes are sometimes used for bou- 
 quets, the flowers being simply inserted through the 
 little squares and tied beneath. These are, however, 
 not in general use. Bouquets made entirely of Tea 
 and other Roses, arranged with their own foliage, are 
 very sweet and extremely beautiful. These do not 
 require wires, and will keep fresh for several days. 
 
 After the flowers are arranged, the bouquet may 
 either be finished off with the elegant paper fringes 
 and wicker-work bouquet-holders sold by all florists 
 for this purpose, or they may have a fringe of real lace 
 over the ordinary bouquet-paper, and be neatly tied 
 with satin ribbons about an inch in breadth. These 
 ribbons should be of a white colour, with a little blue 
 or pink worked in the bow if for the ball-room ; but if 
 for a bridal, of course they should be of pure white only. 
 In America, a wedding or bridal bell is now considered 
 almost as indispensable as the ceremony, and usually 
 occupies a place in front of the pier-glass, having 
 floral balls in proportion to its size hung on either 
 side of it. The framework of the bell is of wire, and 
 it is made up of Camellias, Tuberoses, and Carnations 
 in season, all of which must be pure white. The balls 
 are made of the same flowers, and have on them a 
 monogram or design in red, blue, or green, as the 
 fancy may suggest. 
 
126 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 The elegant spray of flowers here figured is well 
 worth notice, and teaches a valuable lesson on judi- 
 cious contrast and variety in the arrangement of 
 flowers for effect. In the first place, the flowers are 
 not crowded ; and closer examination shows us that 
 there are three distinct types of vegetation. A spray 
 
 A simple Spray of Flowers. 
 
 of shrubby Spiraea forms a fresh green background, 
 relieved here and there by its small white star-shaped 
 flowers ; and on this is laid a sprig of white Azalea, 
 and a shoot of Fuchsia laden with its gracefully pen- 
 dent coral-tinted flowers. It will be observed that we 
 have contrast of colour as well as of form in this little 
 group. Green, white, and crimson or scarlet, always 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 1 27 
 
 contrast well ; while the three secondary tints of green 
 afforded by the foliage of the Azalea, Spiraea, and 
 Fuchsia, give a most harmonious and pleasing finish 
 or undertone to the whole. The engraving is a 
 charming study of flower-form, and illustrates most 
 forcibly how effect may be obtained in the arrange- 
 ment of a minimum quantity of flowers and foliage. 
 
 Button-hole bouquets and coat-flowers are now 
 becoming very fashionable, and when tastefully made 
 up, they certainly form charming little ornaments for 
 evening dress. The little bouquets usually sold by 
 florists are composed of one or two flowers, neatly 
 backed by a spray or two of Fern, or a few green 
 leaves. A charming "button-hole" may be formed 
 of white Jasmine, or either white or rosy Bouvardias 
 and a sprig or two of Forget-me-not (Myosotis) ; but 
 any small distinct-coloured flowers that last well may 
 be used for the purpose. For simple coat-flowers 
 nothing is better than either a Gardenia or one or two 
 Tea Rosebuds, backed by their own foliage. Moss 
 Rosebuds are very beautiful when in season ; while 
 small Camellias — especially the bright rosy-flowered 
 little C. Sassanqua — may be used during winter and 
 spring. The winter -flowering or perpetual Carna- 
 tions, furnish very nice scented blossoms, well adapted 
 for coat-flowers ; as also are Lily of the Valley and 
 pearly white Tuberoses. Care should be taken to 
 keep them within bounds as to size, for nothing looks 
 worse than a large, coarse, button-hole bouquet or coat- 
 flower. If coat-flowers are regularly worn, ask your 
 tailor to make a receptacle at the back of the coat- 
 collar Just below the button-hole to receive a slender 
 glass tube. These hold sufficient water to keep 
 flowers fresh for a whole evening, and are invisible if 
 the above precaution be taken. These tubes may be 
 
128 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 bought at any florist's for about a shilling a-dozen; 
 but some prefer a little bit of oiled silk of this shape 
 
 and size. The 
 stems of the 
 flowers and Ferns 
 are kept moist by 
 a few sprigs of wet 
 sphagnum, and 
 the silk is bound 
 round the whole 
 close below the 
 flowers. If a tube 
 is not to hand, this 
 is the next best 
 substitute, and is 
 generally forth- 
 coming if the ladies are appealed to. 
 
 Crosses, circles, shields, banners, initials, or mono- 
 grams, and other artistic devices in flowers, are easily 
 made, as the flowers are fixed on wire shapes. Any 
 wire-worker will make you these of any shape and 
 size. Some use strips of wood or lath for forming 
 shapes, but those of neat wire are preferable. I have 
 used hollow shapes filled with damp sphagnum, into 
 which the bases of the flower-stems were introduced, 
 and these when filled last much longer in fresh con- 
 dition than those mounted on naked wires. 
 
 Wreaths for ladies' hair are best mounted on a few 
 slender wires, and firmly bound to a stouter one. 
 The best flowers for this purpose are Eucharis, Gar- 
 denias, Camellias, Roses of various kinds, Lapagerias, 
 Lilies, hardy and greenhouse Rhododendrons, especi- 
 ally the pearly wax-like Sikkim Himalayan species ; 
 Water-lilies, Orange-blossom (for bridal wreaths), 
 and many Orchid flowers, as Odontoglossum Alex- 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 
 
 129 
 
 andrse, O. pulchellum and O. citrosmum, Lycaste 
 Skinneri, Angrjecum sesquipedale, Ccelogyne cristata, 
 C. ochracea, Phalsenopsis grandiflora, P. amabilis, 
 and other species of this noble family. To mount 
 single flowers, wrap a piece of fine steel wire ten 
 or twelve turns around a piece the thickness of an 
 ordinary knitting-needle. This forms a neat little 
 spring, close to which the flower should be mounted 
 very firmly, so that there is no risk of its becoming 
 detached ; now fasten the other end firmly on a stout 
 hair-pin, and the flower can be fixed in its place 
 without any difficulty. The flowers for ladies' hair 
 should possess beauty of form in addition to clear 
 and distinct colours ; and great care must be taken 
 in selecting the Fern fronds or spray to accompany 
 them. Young fronds or tender shoots will wither and 
 collapse after a few hours (or even less) in an arid, 
 gas-laden atmosphere. Inattention to trifles like 
 these, insignificant as they may appear when the 
 
 A graceful Wreath. 
 
 youngest fronds look so tempting in all their fresh- 
 ness, often proves a source of annoyance to the 
 fair wearer when she discovers them withered and 
 crumpled before the evening's enjoyment has fairly 
 commenced. 
 
I30 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 The following account of ancient bridal wreaths 
 will doubtless prove interesting to our fair readers : 
 "Wedding garlands or wreaths are of remote anti- 
 quity; they were used among the Romans. Vaughan 
 (1606) states, that 'when the marriage day was come, 
 the bride was bound to have a chaplet of flowers or 
 hearbes upon her head.' Garlands at weddings were 
 used also by the Jews. Wreaths of this kind were 
 used among the Anglo-Saxons. At the termination 
 of the marriage ceremony in the church, the bride 
 and bridegroom both were crowned with wreaths of 
 flowers, which were kept in the church for that pur- 
 pose. Chaplets of flowers used in the Eastern Church 
 on this occasion are said to have been blessed. At a 
 later period, sprigs of Myrtle and ears of Corn were 
 sometimes used. Chaucer, in his ' Clerk of Oxen- 
 forde's Prologue,' introduces Grisyld, a 'verray faith- 
 ful mayde,' dressed out for her wedding ; the wreath 
 or ' coroun ' is mentioned : — 
 
 ' Hir heeres han they kempt, that lay untressed 
 Ful rudely, and with hire fyngres smale 
 A coroun on hir heed they hani-dressed. 
 And set hir ful of nowches gret and smale.' 
 
 In Henry VIII.'s reign the bride wore a wreath of 
 Corn-ears ; sometimes of flowers. Nichols, in his 
 ' Churchwardens' Accounts of St Margaret's, West- 
 minster,' gives the following entry under date 1540: 
 ' Paid to Alice Lewis, a goldsmith's wife of London, 
 for a serclett to marry maydens in, the 26th day of 
 September, £1, los.' Field, in his 'Amends for 
 Ladies,' 1639, nientions garlands being placed ' upon 
 the heads of the maid and widow that are to be 
 married.' Dallaway writes of the Greek Church, that 
 'marriage is by them (of this Church) called the 
 matrimonial coronation, from the crowns of garlands 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 
 
 131 
 
 with which the parties are decorated, and which they 
 solemnly dissolve on the eighth day following.' " 
 
 Drawing-room vases, especially the trumpet-shaped 
 forms made of white glass, look very effective filled 
 with flowers. Do not arrange them into a bouquet, but 
 place a few Fern 
 fronds and grace- 
 fully - drooping 
 Grasses in your 
 vase, and these 
 will form an ap- 
 propriate back- 
 ground for the 
 brighter- coloured 
 blossoms. In all 
 decorations avoid 
 crowding a quan- 
 tity of flowers to- 
 gether until the 
 individual beauty 
 of each is lost. 
 Floral decorations 
 can scarcely be 
 too light and ele- 
 gant, a few bold 
 flowers of good 
 form and clear 
 colours being al- 
 ways more effect- 
 ive than a large 
 heterogeneous col- 
 lection jammed to- 
 gether in confused 
 disorder. As much variety as possible should be 
 obtained ; and this is best arrived at by using very 
 
 Dinner-table or Drawing-room Centre-piece 
 for Flowers. 
 
132 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 Plain Glasses for Flowers. 
 
BOUQUETS, VASES, AND WREATHS. 1 33 
 
 few flowers — one or two of each kind being quite 
 sufficient in the same vase. "Sometimes the effect 
 of large flowers is spoiled by intermixture with puny- 
 flowers of other plants, or an attempt to green down 
 the blaze of colour by Fern or other leaves. The 
 proper leaves for many large flowers are their own, or 
 some other large kind. It may be fancy more than 
 correct taste, but it seems to us that even Fern fronds 
 are rather out of place with such cut-flowers as Rhodo- 
 dendrons. We remember we once learned from a con- 
 fectioner to royalty a lesson which is as applicable 
 to the dressing of flowers as of fruit, though not 
 perhaps to the same extent. He said, 'Each fruit 
 should be dished up garnished with its own leaves.' 
 Why not each flower? An attempt to conform to 
 such a law would give more freshness and variety to 
 our floral devices than aught else we could try. 
 What should we think of the ladies if, with all their 
 changes of dresses, they invariably used the same 
 trimmings .' To a large extent this is just what we 
 do with our flowers — stiff or graceful, sober or gay, 
 we fringe them all alike with the same Ferns. Would 
 it not be better taste to try their own leaves first .' 
 There is no fear of not using enough Fern ; but 
 distinctness and freshness could oftener be reached 
 if we laid it aside now and then for other greens. 
 Many of the Coniferse form good substitutes, barring 
 the smell when bruised ; and Asparagus, common 
 Grasses, and numbers of other plants, may be used 
 with good effect." Many flowers much too large for 
 bouquets and wreaths may be used for vases, such as, 
 Pentstemons, Chelone, Foxgloves, Gladioli, Lilies, and 
 Roses ; the latter are sometimes arranged in elegant 
 wicker - baskets with good effect, and are sold so 
 arranged in Covent Garden during the summer 
 
134 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 months. Our illustration shows one filled with Mar6- 
 chal Niel Roses arranged in wet moss or sand, their 
 
 Basket of Marickal Niel Rose. 
 
 own foliage being the only and best background for 
 the pale, soft, golden flowers. 
 
 FLORAL DECORATIONS FOR THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 Of late years it has been the custom to ornament 
 the dinner-table either with living plants or cut-flowers, 
 or the two tastefully combined, and we can but endea- 
 vour to encourage and promote this elegant innovation. 
 The heavy and costly epergnes, or the great heaps of 
 flowers and fruit formerly tolerated on the festive 
 board, have now been superseded by more pleasing 
 arrangements. The simple and artistic decorations for 
 the dinner-table lately so popular are the result of a 
 laudable attempt to infuse intellectual refinement into 
 the most commonplace matters of our everyday exist- 
 ence. We all know how refreshing a bouquet of 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. 135 
 
 newly-gathered flowers all glistening with dew looks 
 when placed upon the breakfast-table on a cool, fresh 
 summer's morning, and we hope yet to see this taste 
 for beautiful Sowers at our daily repasts extended to 
 all classes. Dinner-table decorations are in season all 
 the year; but during the autumn and winter season 
 these floral embellishments are specially desirable. 
 Their arrangement need not be of an expensive char- 
 acter, while a most charming variety may be indulged 
 in to almost any extent by those who possess a keen 
 sense of the beautiful in nature and art. The general 
 arrangement for a small party of six or eight persons 
 is to have three light March stands, the central one 
 a few inches taller than the others ; or even if they are 
 all of the same height, a little tact in arranging the 
 longest spikes of flowers or sprays of foliage in the 
 central vase will remedy this sameness and formality. 
 Another arrangement is to have a March stand for 
 the centre-piece, and a pair of simple glass vases — the 
 plain trumpet pattern being preferable — one on each 
 side ; while occasionally, for a very small party, one 
 stand neatly furnished will be sufficiently effective. 
 As to the manner in which flowers should be arranged, 
 no amount of written instructions would teach so much 
 as a glance at the accompanying illustration — which 
 has been carefully made from elegant groups. Next 
 to Ferns, ornamental Grasses occupy a prominent 
 position, some of the most beautiful species being 
 invaluable for dinner-table decoration. There is a 
 delicate grace about them not possessed by any other 
 plants, and they have the additional advantage of 
 lasting for any length of time when carefully dried. 
 Some of the more delicate-growing Horse-tails are 
 valuable aids in this way, and keep fresh for a long 
 time in water ; while feathery sprays of the common 
 
136 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. 
 
 137 
 
 Asparagus have fev/ equals for delicate green fresh- 
 ness and beauty. Nearly all Ferns may be pressed 
 into this service; and amongst flowering -plants the 
 most useful for this purpose vary according to the 
 season, but preference should be given to bold flowers 
 of graceful form and decided colours. Eucharis, 
 Vallota, many kinds 
 of Lilies, Crinums, 
 Pancratiums, and 
 white varieties of 
 Fuchsia, are specially 
 to be recommended. 
 The wax-like flowers 
 of both the rosy and 
 white Lapageria may 
 be neatly mounted 
 on wires and sus- 
 pended from the mar- 
 gins of the vase, or 
 from a light and grace- 
 ful arch (see fig., p. 
 147), where they look 
 natural, and have a 
 good effect. Sprays 
 of Jasmine, white 
 Bouvardias, and 
 pearly Stephanotis, 
 will suggest them- 
 selves for this use, 
 and some Orchids 
 are very chaste and 
 beautiful. The use 
 of the choicest exotics 
 may be indulged in, if they are procurable ; but they 
 are by no means absolutely essential in order to com- 
 
 March Stand tastefully arranged 
 Flowers, Ferns, and Grasses. 
 
138 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 pose a truly effective vase. The decorations here 
 figured contain very few flowers, and still they were 
 very beautiful and much admired by all who saw 
 them. The bases of the stands should be concealed 
 by a fringe of large Fern fronds, on which may be 
 laid flowers of the snowy Eucharis and the fiery Scar- 
 borough Lily alternately. Among these, the beauti- 
 ful buds and flowers of the pearly Eucharis peep here 
 and there, bright as the stars on a fine autumnal 
 night, and the effect of the lower part is still further 
 enhanced by the judicious use of Lagurus ovatus and 
 other graceful ornamental Grasses. The tier above 
 fringed with Maiden-hair Ferns, beneath which hang 
 the beautifully-formed blooms of both the rosy and 
 white-flowered Lapagerias, is very effective. The 
 other flowers here, as below, are Eucharis and Vallota, 
 with the addition of Franciscea calycina and Ronde- 
 letia speciosa. The trumpet - shaped vases above 
 are lightly filled with spikes of Chelone barbata or 
 scarlet Pentstemon and light Grasses, the whole form- 
 ing a most charming arrangement. The vases are 
 filled with water ; but the flat receptacles below, which 
 are concealed by the flowers and drooping foliage, 
 should be filled with wet sand, which is equally as 
 good for preserving the flowers, and also affords a 
 firmer hold, each flower remaining in it exactly where 
 it is placed. 
 
 In arranging floral decorations of any kind to look 
 well under artificial light, some attention must be 
 given to the choice of colours best suited for the pur- 
 pose. Many flowers which are beautiful and bright 
 during daylight, are not so when seen under artificial 
 illumination, and should never be employed. Blue 
 flowers, so effective in mid-day arrangements, are dull 
 and inattractive at night. Purple, lilac, and mauve 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. 
 
 139 
 
 should never be used, as they are all more or less 
 dingy under gas-light. Preference should always be 
 given to large flowers of decided shades of red, or to 
 those of pearly whiteness. These show well, and 
 never fail to please when tastefully set off with fresh 
 
 Dinner-table Decoration, composed of Ferns, Selagindla, and 
 Lily of the Valley flowers and foliage. 
 
 green Ferns. Some small flowers of good quality 
 and purity of colour, as Lily of the Valley, Hotteia 
 japonica, and Scillas, are very beautiful arranged in 
 flat-topped Marchian stands, as shown in our illustration. 
 The flowers suitable for dinner-table decorations are 
 wellnigh endless in their variety, and the most effec- 
 
140 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 tive are named in the Calendar for occasional refer- 
 ence. Living plants of various kinds are often used 
 with good effect, and such plants can often be used 
 several times in succession during the season. Those 
 most lasting for this purpose are Palms, many of which 
 are very light and beautiful. Ferns of various kinds 
 come in very handy, especially the hardier kinds, and 
 many other species of flowering and foliage plants 
 are striking and effective when well grown. Crotons, 
 Caladiums, Dracaenas, Pandanus, Yuccas, Agaves, 
 especially the small - growing species as A. filifera, 
 
 ^**=^^^^^^^^ gesta, and others 
 
 Caladium as a Vase-Plant. „ v ui c 
 
 suitable lor wm- 
 dow or room cultivation, also make nice little table- 
 plants. The Umbrella Sedge from Madagascar 
 (Cyperus alternifolius) and its white variegated 
 variety grow freely in a moderately cool temperature, 
 and come in handy either entire or when cut. 
 Nice little plants of Ericas or Epacris are useful 
 for table-work, especially during the winter and 
 
DINMKR-TABLK DKCORATIONS. 
 
 141 
 
 spring months. E. hyemalis, E. colorans, E. Wil- 
 moreana, E. hybrida, and E. gracilis and its varieties, 
 are all good. All the Ericas grow outside in a cold 
 frame during the summer, and only require a tempera- 
 ture a degree or two above freezing-point in the winter, 
 but must be kept free from damp. Small Conifers, as 
 Thujas and Retinosporas, or little Fir-trees, may also 
 be used when other plants are not attainable. Fuch- 
 
 
 Maranta as a Vase-Plant. 
 
 sias make charming plants for our present purpose 
 when grown in frames outside, or even on the balcony 
 or in the window; they make fine little plants if treated 
 as hereafter recommended. 
 
 We might go on to any extent with our enumera- 
 tion, but as this is a question of taste, our readers 
 may take any plant which strikes them as being 
 
142 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 beautiful for this purpose. One thing is necessary, or, 
 if not always essential often extremely convenient, 
 and that is, to grow all plants intended for the decora- 
 tion of the dinner-table in pots as small as possible 
 — for the less conspicuous the pots are, the less trouble 
 it is to conceal them when arranged on the table. 
 Some have recommended sinking the pot through the 
 table-top ; but as this is not generally applicable, we 
 
 Dinner- Table decorated with Palms. 
 
 only allude to it here as a hint in case our readers 
 may think well to adapt their dining-tables for the 
 purpose. In clubs, hotels, or even private houses, the 
 polished tops of the dining-tables may be constructed 
 so as to be removed, and then a top of plain deal can 
 be substituted pierced with holes for the reception 
 of the pots. Our illustration shows a dinner-table 
 decorated with Palms, the pots being concealed below 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. I43 
 
 the table-top as shown below. The manner in which 
 
 the pots are supported is shown in the accompanying 
 
 illustration. The pot -covers or vases commonly 
 
 used for hiding earthenware 
 
 flower - pots when placed on 
 
 the table are not always in 
 
 good taste. White and pale 
 
 blue enamelled kinds may be 
 
 tolerated, but gaudy affairs of 
 
 crimson, purple, scarlet, or gold 
 
 should be avoided. The pots Pot concmledbdow 
 
 ^ lable-top. 
 
 may be concealed easily enough 
 
 by draping them with common small-leaved Ivy, 
 Ficus repens, F. falcata, or F. minima ; Selag- 
 inella hortensis, Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia num- 
 mularia), scandent Periwinkles (Vinca) ; or with Fern 
 fronds pressed into the soil and gracefully bent 
 over the sides. If the plant is not symmetrical or 
 well furnished, a good effect may be obtained by 
 filling a flat glass dish with either damp sand or clay, 
 into which elegant sprays of Fuchsias, Ericas, Bou- 
 vardias, Euphorbias, Azaleas, Cyperus, Grasses, and 
 other plants can be fixed, and the arrangement then 
 neatly finished off with a few Vine- leaves or Fern- 
 fronds. Our figure here given shows a beautiful 
 though simple arrangement in which a plant of Bou- 
 vardia jasminiflora sunk through the top of the table 
 is finished off with Maiden-hair Ferns, on which are 
 laid a few Azalea and Chrysanthemum flowers. 
 Such an arrangement as that here figured is quite 
 sufficient for a small dinner or breakfast party, and 
 can be put together in a few minutes if the sprays are 
 cut and arranged in the way above described. In the 
 case of rare or valuable plants, they cannot, of course, 
 be cut up ; but we are not obliged to employ plants of 
 
144 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 this kind, since we have commoner plants quite as 
 beautiful and often even more effective. When stands 
 are to be used for table-decoration, choose those of 
 
 Dinner-Table Group. 
 
 plain glass — the more simple they are the better, 
 provided their shape is elegant. Those commonly- 
 known as March stands are very useful, indeed they 
 
 are the best for 
 our purpose, and 
 A 1 may be arranged 
 
 with a very small 
 quantity of flow- 
 ers. An elegant 
 compound flower 
 vase is that we 
 here figure (figs. 
 AandBshowthat 
 different - shaped 
 side vases may 
 be used). It was 
 designed by W. 
 Thomson, Esq., 
 one of our highest authorities on artistic floral decora- 
 tions, and deserves to become popular, as it is applicable 
 
 Fig. A — Plan of Convertible Vase. 
 
DINNER-TABLE BECORATIONS. 
 
 145 
 
 to all purposes, and may be arranged with but little 
 trouble in a variety of different styles. At the risk of 
 repetition I must 
 point, out that 
 many forms of 
 both wild and cul- 
 tivated grasses, in- 
 cluding Wheat, 
 Barley, Oats, and 
 Rye, are amongst 
 the most effective, 
 and certainly the 
 most graceful, of all 
 plants for our pre- 
 sent purpose. We 
 here figure a crys- 
 tal stand or vase 
 which is for the 
 most part filled 
 with grasses. They 
 furnish the pike 
 de resistance of the 
 whole arrange- 
 ment, with the ad- 
 dition of a very few 
 flowers for colour 
 and variety, while 
 the base is relieved 
 
 Fig. B — Convertible Dinner-Table Vase 
 {sectional view). 
 
 with a few green Fern fronds interspersed with common 
 bright-coloured blossoms. This vase carries elegance 
 to its utmost limit, and the choicest exotics could not 
 rival it for graceful beauty of form. Grasses are 
 within the reach of the humblest artisan, and with 
 the addition of a few Roses, Lilies, or Iris flowers from 
 his narrow strip of flower-garden, would form very 
 
 K 
 
146 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 beautiful arrangements to grace the table of his little 
 parlour, not only at meal-times but throughout the 
 
 day. We have spoken 
 of flat dishes and 
 March stands filled 
 with flowers, and of 
 table-plants which may 
 be used either aloiie or 
 in combination with 
 these ; but any one with 
 average intelligence 
 will speedily invent 
 other artistic forms of 
 table -decoration. Mr 
 W. Thomson has sug- 
 gested and speaks very 
 highly in the ' Garden ' 
 of an arch like the 
 one figured below. The 
 frame is formed of neat 
 wire-work, the wires 
 themselves being cov- 
 ered with the long 
 fresh spray - like 
 branches of Myrsi- 
 phyllum asparagoides, 
 one of the most elegant plants for the purpose(see fig., p. 
 147.) The flowers drooping from the span are the lovely 
 wax-like blooms of Lapageria rosea, mounted on wires 
 so as to stand out from the green bower in a natural 
 manner. The two plants at each end of the arch are 
 Lomatia filicifolia, or other allied species of that 
 genus, the elegantly cut foliage of which will keep 
 fresh for six or eight weeks after being cut. The 
 plant in the centre is Yucca aloifolia variegata ; but 
 
 Vase decorated with Grasses. 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. 
 
 147 
 
 Agave filifera densifolia or A. striata would do just 
 as well : indeed the immense variety to be obtained in 
 table-decorations constitutes one of their principal 
 charms. Many very beautiful combinations may be 
 made by employing simple trumpet-shaped glasses 
 or vases (see fig., p. 148). Various kinds of these, 
 to suit all tastes, can be obtained at most glass- 
 works or warehouses, in all sizes from 9 inches to 
 3 feet in height. They are graceful in outline, and 
 require but few flowers to fill them effectively. The 
 
 IM II 
 
 Dinna-- Table Arch. 
 
 example here given is filled with fresh green moss 
 into which a few Fern fronds are inserted, while two 
 or three distinct richly- coloured flowers are laid in 
 among the fresh and moist vegetation. The drooping 
 sprays are those of Lygodium (scandens) Japonicum ; 
 but slender sprays of Wood Ivy, Ficus repens, lesser 
 Periwinkle, Asparagus scandens, or the elegant Myr- 
 siphyllum, will give nearly the same effect. From the 
 examples given (p. 148) it will be seen that the old- 
 fashioned heavy arrangements are out of date : indeed 
 
148 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 the more elegant and simple these decorations are the 
 better, and they are much more in accordance with 
 good taste. In addition to the central vases or main 
 decorations, a small glass vase should be placed before 
 each guest containing a flower or two, as a Rosebud, 
 
 Trumpet-shaped Glass Vase, 
 
 Vase with a few Or- 
 chid Flowers and 
 Ferns. 
 
 a spray of Stephanotis, an Orchid, or any other effec- 
 tive flower, backed by either a spray of Selaginella or 
 a small Fern frond. These vases are made in various 
 sizes of both plain and ruby -coloured glass, and are 
 generally from 6 to 9 inches in height. When taste- 
 fully filled they are highly ornamental, and care should 
 be taken to provide fresh and elegant flowers for them, 
 as, being close under the eyes of the guests, any little 
 imperfection is the more easily seen and noticed, since 
 in their case the individual beauty of the flower or two 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. I49 
 
 they contain is noted, while in the more pretending 
 vases down the centre of the table the general effect 
 makes up for any little defect in individual excellence. 
 It may have been noticed that we have not alluded 
 to table -decorations in which fruit and flowers are 
 arranged together. We do not do so, because we 
 believe fruit ought not to be so arranged. Fruit is 
 placed on the table for the purposes of dessert ; and 
 we look upon the system which would include it in a 
 decorative design along with flowers and Ferns as 
 being in bad taste, since most of the guests would hesi- 
 tate to destroy or disturb the combination set before 
 them. The best and simplest way of arranging fruit 
 is to place it on the ordinary dessert plates or dishes, 
 neatly dressed up with its own foliage, as described 
 in our next chapter. Fruit is decidedly ornamental 
 when set up in the way we recommend ; but we should 
 not lose sight of the fact that it is placed on the table 
 not only to be looked at but also to be eaten — that is, 
 if the guests desire it. In this opinion I am borne out 
 by Mr J. Hudson, one of our most successful table- 
 decorators in London, and whose beautiful combina- 
 tions are universally admired when set up at the 
 Crystal Palace and other floral exhibitions. 
 
 Palms for the Dinner-Table. — Few plants are so 
 well adapted for the decoration of the dinner-table 
 as Palms, and nearly every species in cultivation is 
 valuable for this purpose when in a young state. 
 Some of the slow-growing species may be used for 
 several years in succession, while the other and 
 quicker-growing kinds are easily grown on for this 
 purpose from seeds. These elegant plants are not 
 only as graceful as the most delicate Ferns, but far 
 better fitted to withstand the aridity of apartments 
 heated by either coal-fires or gas. Plants from i to 
 
150 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 2 feet in height are, as a rule, most useful for table- 
 decoration; but, in exceptional cases, where the 
 tables are very large, plants 3 or 4 feet high may be 
 employed with excellent effect. Palms for dinner- 
 table work should be grown in small pots — a 48-pot, 
 or at most a 32, being amply large enough for a plant 
 2 to 3 feet high. Much of their elegant appearance 
 is lost if the pots are large in proportion to the plant ; 
 and the only extra labour entailed on the cultivator 
 by the use of small pots is the necessity for watering 
 them more freqiiently, especially during the dry hot 
 summer months. If provision is made for letting the 
 pots through the table- tops — a course as yet not very 
 generally adopted — the size of the pots is not a 
 matter of much consequence, since they are then 
 concealed from view. The best soil for Palms of all 
 kinds is a good fibrous loam, intermixed with suffi- 
 cient sand to keep it fresh and open, and the pots 
 must be thoroughly drained. Some cultivators add 
 a little peat to the above, but it is not essential, 
 except in the case of the more delicate kinds. In 
 potting, press the soil down firmly ; for, of all plants, 
 Palms affect a stiff hearty compost, and will do far 
 better in it than in any light loose soil. 
 
 For a small or moderate-sized dinner-table, three 
 plants will be amply sufficient ; but at large parties, 
 where very long tables are employed, the plants can 
 be multiplied in proportion to the space at command. 
 These plants form an agreeable change from floral 
 compositions arranged in Marchian stands, and a 
 table ornamented with Palms can be arranged very 
 effectively in a few minutes ; while no other plants 
 whatever equal them in the freedom and grace with 
 which their plumose glossy foliage springs in elegant 
 curves from the snow-white cloth. Palms may now 
 
DINNER-TABLE DECORATIONS. 
 
 151 
 
 be purchased of any of the leading nurserymen at 
 
 moderate rates, or the cultivator may procure seeds 
 
 and propagate his own plants 
 
 year after year. By adopting 
 
 the latter method, plants of all 
 
 sizes may be obtained, and 
 
 they will form useful permanent 
 
 ornaments for the plant-stove 
 
 or conservatory, or even for the 
 
 decoration of apartments, as 
 
 practised in several Continental 
 
 countries even where facilities 
 
 for their cultivation are less 
 
 common than here at home. 
 Perhaps in no other class of 
 
 plants can we obtain moreagree- 
 
 able variety than in the use of 
 
 Palms, if carefully selected with 
 reference to their size and 
 habit of growth. The plumose section are, as a rule, 
 best suited to our present requirements ; but in practice 
 we have repeatedly used small specimens of the F"an- 
 leaved Chamasdoras, Livistonias, and Geonomas with 
 good results. For a small table, a tall central plant 
 of Latania aurea or Cocos Weddelliana may be 
 supported on either side by a plant of Livistonia 
 altissima or small plants of L. borbonica. Next to 
 the elegant Cocos Weddelliana we have Chamsdora 
 graminifolia or C. elegans, both very useful when 
 in a young state ; while nearly all the Dsemonorops 
 are elegant plumose species, admirably adapted for 
 table-work — D. plumosus, D. accidens, and the 
 subject of the above illustration, D. fissus, being the 
 best. Geonomas are very compact and useful, seve- 
 ral of them forming miniature stems, something like 
 
 Table-Palm. 
 
152 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 Chamsedoras, but much dwarfer. Our illustration 
 also shows the application of the new enamelled 
 vases, which associate well with the other dinner- 
 table ornaments, or are pretty additions to the side- 
 board in ordinary apartments. In practice, if ornate 
 vases are not to hand, it is generally best to surface 
 the pots with fresh green moss, or Selaginella or 
 drooping Fern fronds can be inserted round the sides, 
 so as to hide the dull red mass of earthenware ; or the 
 pot can be wreathed with green and variegated forms 
 of Ivy, Periwinkle, or the fresh young growth of 
 Myrsiphyllum asparagoides. We append a list of 
 some of the best and most easily grown Palms for 
 indoor decorative purposes : — 
 
 Areca— 
 
 Chamsedora — 
 
 Geonoma — 
 
 Martinezia— 
 
 alba. 
 
 lunata. 
 
 Martiana. 
 
 caryotasfolia. 
 
 Catechu. 
 
 microphylla. 
 
 pumila. 
 
 Lindeniana, 
 
 lutescens. 
 
 Sartarii. 
 
 Schottiana. 
 
 MaximiUana — 
 
 monostachya. 
 
 Wendlandii. 
 
 Guilielma — 
 
 regia. 
 
 Calamus — 
 
 Cocos — 
 
 speciosa. 
 
 Morenia — 
 
 asperrimus. 
 
 Weddelliana. 
 
 Licuala — 
 
 corallina. 
 
 hystrix. 
 
 Dsemonorops — 
 
 elegans. 
 
 fragrans. 
 
 Luisianus. 
 
 (Calamus) acci- 
 
 peltata. 
 
 Oncosperma— 
 
 melanchsetes. 
 
 dens. 
 
 Livistonia— 
 
 Van-Houtteana. 
 
 Carludovica— 
 
 plumosus. 
 
 altissima. 
 
 Phoenix— 
 
 rotundifolia. 
 
 fissus. 
 
 borbonica. 
 
 reclinata. 
 
 Ceratolobus — 
 
 Elaels — 
 
 humilis. 
 
 sylvestris. 
 
 glaucescens. 
 
 Guineensis. 
 
 Jenklnsiana. 
 
 tenuis. 
 
 Chamsedora — 
 
 Geonoma — . 
 
 Malortiea — 
 
 Rhapia — 
 
 elegans. 
 
 congesta. 
 
 humilis. 
 
 flabelliformis. 
 
 Emesti August^ 
 
 i. elegans. 
 
 simplex. 
 
 humilis. 
 
 glaucifolia. 
 
 ferraginea. 
 
 Mauritia — 
 
 Welfia— 
 
 graminifolia. 
 
 macrostachys. 
 
 ^ flexuosa. 
 
 regia. 
 
 ARRANGING FRUIT FOR DESSERT. 
 
 Fruit of all kinds are very effective for dinner-table 
 decoration when tastefully and judiciously dished up, 
 although the chief object in placing fruit on the 
 
HOW TO ARRANGE iiRUlT. 1 53 
 
 dinner-table is, that it may be eaten, and conse- 
 quently we must avoid working it up into complicated 
 designs along with flowers and Ferns, or other perma- 
 nent floral decorations. Fruit may either be grouped 
 in an epergne or arranged on simple dessert-dishes. 
 Dessert plates and dishes of porcelain are now very 
 tastefully decorated, while some furnishers employ 
 simple dishes or small baskets of glass with good 
 effect. Fruit generally looks well dished up with 
 its own foliage, provided always that it is fresh and 
 clean. During the autumn months, however, the 
 bright crimson and yellow-tinted leaves of Virginian 
 Creeper, Grape Vine, Berberis, Portugal Laurel, or 
 Maple, may be used as affording an agreeable variety. 
 Monotony or sameness is always to be avoided in 
 decorations of all kinds ; for, next after skilful group- 
 ing, a pleasing variety affords us the most satisfaction 
 in return for our labour. Some fruits, more especially 
 Grapes and Plums, require careful handling, or their 
 delicate bloom is destroyed, and much of their beauty 
 lost. Grapes always look well arranged with their 
 own foliage, two bunches of white and one of black, 
 or vice versd, forming a nice dish. Lay the base of 
 the foliage inwards, so that the serrate or fringed 
 margins may form a 'neat border around the edge of 
 the dish or plate. Some use the elegantly -curled 
 foliage of Malva crispa for Grapes as well as Peaches, 
 while Strawberry -leaves are very appropriate and 
 generally obtainable. Ivy and Fig leaves are some- 
 times used, but their odour is rather off"ensive to some 
 persons. I have seen Grapes, Plums, and Peaches 
 very tastefully grouped on a cool fresh bed of Sela- 
 ginella (densa) apoda, which had previously been 
 grown in shallow circular pans just the size of the 
 dessert-dishes, and in which it was placed. Straw- 
 
154 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 berries also look well on this material, although their 
 own foliage is most appropriate. A neatly-arranged 
 dish of Strawberries is a very suitable ornament for 
 the breakfast-table. To arrange them, first fill the 
 bottom of the dish with fresh green foliage, so as to 
 form a cushion for the fruit. The bottom layer can 
 be formed of the smaller fruit, in order to make a firm 
 base for the finest berries. Now take the largest and 
 freshest fruit, and wrapping each in one of its own 
 leaves, arrange them in a circle round the sides of the 
 dish, filling in the centre with the smaller ones, unless 
 you have enough of the large ones to fill the dish. 
 Add layer after layer, each being about an inch less 
 in diameter than the one before, until the whole is 
 finished. If neatly done, the fruit looks deliciously 
 tempting as it peeps out from the fresh green leaflets. 
 Figs require careful handling, if fully ripe, and look 
 well grouped on a flat dish or plate with three or four 
 of their own leaves. 
 
 For a small party of, say, eight or ten persons, half- 
 a-dozen dishes of fruit will be amply sufficient ; but 
 these can be farther augmented by adding supple- 
 mentary dishes of preserved Ginger, Plums, Muscatels, 
 Apricots, and Peaches, all of which are very accept- 
 able, especially during the winter months, when fresh 
 fruits, except Apples, Pears, and Grapes, are scarce. 
 If possible — that is, if the table is large enough — the 
 fruit should be arranged along with the March stands 
 or table-plants ; but if there is not ample space to 
 do this without crowding, it is better to arrange the 
 fruit-dishes or crystal baskets, whichever may be pre- 
 ferred, on the sideboard, so as to be brought forward 
 when the more substantial dishes are removed. If the 
 di.shes are placed on the table, any tasteful arrange- 
 ment may be adopted. It is considered fashionable 
 
HOW TO ARRANGE FRUIT. 1 55 
 
 now to dine d la Russe; and in this case the dishes of 
 fruit and floral decorations are grouped together, and 
 serve as ornaments during the earlier portion of the 
 repast. Silver or plated dessert-knives and grape- 
 scissors should be provided, as those of steel are 
 stained so quickly by acids. Do not crowd the fruit 
 upon the dishes, especially in the case of fine or hand- 
 some specimens, as by so doing much of its beauty 
 is lost. 
 
 Half-a-dozen Peaches or Nectarines make a hand- 
 some dish. A very agreeable variety can be infused 
 into the dessert by using the various tropical fruits 
 and nuts which are now imported into this country 
 in considerable quantities. Plantains and Bananas, 
 Figs, Dates, Muscatels, Litchis, Almonds, Custard- 
 Apples, Guavas, Granadillas, Prickly Pears, and 
 Oranges, look very nice when neatly arranged on 
 any fresh green foliage ; but they must be used to 
 augment rather than to supply the place of Grapes, 
 Peaches, Pears, and other home-grown fruits. Leaves 
 of Passiflora (racemosa) princeps are sometimes used 
 with good effect in the arrangement of fruit, as are 
 also the light green fronds of Polypodium cambricum, 
 or Welsh Polypody. Melons and Pines are generally 
 set up on a dish to themselves ; but sometimes they 
 are grouped artistically in an epergne along with Black 
 and White Grapes, Peaches, Nectarines, and other 
 fruits. Apples and Pears are arranged in the same 
 way as Peaches, half-a-dozen good fruit forming a 
 nice dish for a moderate party. Small fruits, such as 
 Raspberries, Gooseberries, Currants, and Mulberries, 
 are generally picked with their stalks intact, the very 
 finest only being used ; and these are either arranged 
 loosely in the dish on a carpet of fresh leaves, or 
 grouped like Strawberries. 
 
1$6 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 EVERLASTINGS OR IMMORTELLES FOR 
 WINTER DECORATION. 
 
 Many of the Everlastings or Immortelles are strik- 
 ingly beautiful and effective when neatly arranged 
 either in the form of wreaths, crosses, bouquets, or in 
 ornamental vases. Certainly they lack the fresh 
 sweetness of newly-gathered blossoms ; but, on the 
 other hand, they have the additional advantage of 
 being permanent, and are serviceable when fresh 
 exotics or hardy flowers are either expensive or diffi- 
 cult to obtain. For permanent winter bouquets they 
 are especially useful, and may be grouped along with 
 dried Fern fronds, autumnal foliage, sprays of Sela- 
 ginella, or dried Grasses, the latter being very elegant 
 additions even to the choicest of fresh exotics. For 
 variety, skeletonised leaves and seed-vessels may 
 be added, the ivory whiteness of which, when pre- 
 pared as herein recommended, contrast well with the 
 bright-coloured flowers and green Ferns to which 
 we have already alluded. Everlastings or Immortelles 
 are largely used on the Continent in the manufacture 
 of ornamental wreaths, crosses, and other elegant 
 designs for the decoration of tombs and shrines ; 
 while their importation to this country forms a pro- 
 minent part of the autumn business of our leading 
 decorative florists. One great advantage possessed 
 by these flowers is, that when carefully handled they 
 may be rearranged and used in new and pleasing 
 combinations time after time. As ornaments either 
 for the chimney-piece or drawing-room table they are 
 very attractive, though care must be taken to avoid 
 crushed or crowded arrangements. If, as sometimes 
 happens, the stems are too short, they can be mounted 
 
IMMORTELLES AND DRIED FLOWERS. 157 
 
 on wires — indeed, the plan is more applicable to these 
 flowers than to many of those which are freshly cut 
 (see p. 1 29). After the bouquets are arranged, they 
 may be placed in elegant terra cotta, Parian marble, 
 glass, carved wood, or other vases, and the whole 
 covered with a crystal shade, which protects them 
 from dust and other impurities. In this way bouquets 
 will last clean and fresh for several years. Most of 
 the Everlastings are borne by annual plants belonging 
 to the composites ; and the plants are easily raised 
 from seeds sown in a warm sunny border early in 
 May. In pots for window-culture they may be sown 
 a month or six weeks earlier. Seeds of both Im- 
 mortelles and ornamental Grasses can be purchased 
 from any of the seedsmen for a mere trifle, and are 
 specially useful as window or balcony plants during 
 the summer, after which their flowers may be cut and 
 preserved for winter decorations. If, however, one 
 does not care to grow them from seeds, the flowers 
 and sprays may be bought from any florist for a few 
 shillings in the autumn, either loose for arrangement 
 at home, or in the shape of bouquets, wreaths, and 
 crosses already made up. 
 
 The kinds most useful for the purposes above alluded 
 to are the rosy and white-flowered Acrocliniums, 
 Helichrysums, as H. bracteatum and H. monstrosum, 
 which have large flowers, produced in quantities in 
 the open border, and very variable as to colour, run- 
 ning through all the shades of yellow, orange, red, 
 purple, crimson, and white. Other small-flowered 
 species, as H. arenarium, H. elegans, H. capitatum, 
 H. apiculatum, and H. strictum, grow freely in a 
 sunny position on a warm sandy soil, producing their 
 flowers in great abundance. Helipterum Sandfordii is 
 another charming yellow-flowered half-hardy annual 
 
IS8 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 well worth growing for bouquets and winter flowers. 
 The most beautiful of all Everlastings are those borne 
 by the Rhodanthes. These charming little plants 
 have pale glaucous foliage, and flower freely when 
 about a foot high, if treated as recommended above. 
 They are also invaluable as pot-plants for greenhouse 
 or window decoration, while their delicate silvery or 
 rose-tinted flowers may be grouped with the choicest 
 exotics without offending in any way the most refined 
 taste. These plants are cultivated largely by the 
 London market -growers for the supply of Covent 
 Garden Market, four or five seedling plants being 
 pricked out into a forty-eight pot and grown on in a 
 cool frame until they flower. The kinds at present in 
 cultivation are R. Manglesii, R. Manglesii major, both 
 bearing delicate rosy flowers ; R. atrosanguinea, 
 crimson-purple ; R. maculata, rosy-purple, with a dark 
 circle round the eye ; and R. maculata alba, the most 
 beautiful of the whole group, the flowers and buds 
 being of the most delicate silvery whiteness imagin- 
 able. Some of the Waitzias are well adapted for 
 window decoration ; and occasionally the flowers, 
 which are either yellow or reddish-purple, may be 
 utilised for bouquets. W. aurea, W. acuminata, W. 
 corymbosa, and W. grandiflora, are all effective and 
 worth general cultivation. Several species of Xeran- 
 themum are amongst the most beautiful of all the 
 Immortelles, and ought to be much more popular 
 than they are at present ; X. album, X. atropur- 
 pureum, and X. imperiale being the best. In addi- 
 tion to the above, all of which may be grown in a 
 sheltered herbaceous border, we have several green- 
 house plants that produce flowers of the Everlasting 
 type. One of the finest of half-hardy Everlastings, 
 though mostly grown in pots in the greenhouse, is 
 
IMMORTELLES AND DRIED FLOWERS. 159 
 
 Gomphrena globosa, a charming plant, its varieties 
 bearing rosy-purple, flesh-coloured, and pure white 
 flowers. Again, Phoenocoma prolifera, Aphelexis 
 purpurea and its varieties, all bear large, rosy, star- 
 shaped flowers, well adapted for permanent decorative 
 purposes. The plants above referred to are natural or 
 true Everlastings, all the preparation they require 
 being to cut them soon after the buds expand, and 
 lay them on shelves in a dry dark room, or they may 
 be tied up loosely in bunches and suspended from a 
 line, where they dry in a few days. The flowers 
 should be cut before they become fully expanded, and 
 a dry sunny morning should be selected for the pur- 
 pose — flowers cut when damp being apt to spoil by 
 rotting. Several of the Statices and Gypsophila 
 elegans, though not strictly speaking Everlastings, 
 may be dried easily, and are then very elegant addi- 
 tions to the winter decorations. The most beautiful 
 Immortelles are, however, stiff" and formal when 
 arranged alone ; and of all other plants, ornamental 
 Grasses are the most useful for adding variety and 
 grace to groups of these flowers. Occasionally a few 
 bright-tinted autumnal leaves may be added, these 
 being now prepared and varnished by many of the 
 American as well as by English decorative florists. 
 These, with the skeletonised foliage previously referred 
 to, will infuse an agreeable variety into a tasteful 
 arrangement of these flowers, and form a natural orna- 
 ment as permanent as those composed of artificial 
 flowers, and a great deal more interesting. The best 
 Grasses for bouquets and decorative vases are, Agros- 
 tis argentea, A. elegans, A. nebulosa, and A. laxiflora, 
 all very graceful and effective. All the Quaking- 
 grasses (Briza) are good, as B. compacta, B. major, 
 and B. gracilis, while Brizopyrum siculum is very use- 
 
i6o 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 ful for bouquet-work, and especially for edgings. All 
 the species of Chloris, such as C. barbata, C. ciliata, 
 C. cucullata, C. elegans, and C. radiata, are useful, 
 producing fine and gracefully-radiating spikes quite 
 distinct from the general forms of Grasses. The same 
 remark applies to the different forms of Eleusine, all 
 of which are very effective. The common Love-grass, 
 Eragrostis elegans, and E. cylindriflora, are both very 
 finely divided, as are all the species in the genus. 
 Hordeum jubatum and the common Hare's-tail Grass 
 — Lagurus ovatus — are both useful for either bouquets 
 or vases ; while the Feather-grass — Stipa pennata — 
 and several allied species are well known, and their 
 silky plumes, which sway to and fro with the slightest 
 breath of air, are much admired. Ornamental Grasses, 
 though beautiful, are not much appreciated by the 
 generality of cultivators ; still many florists are now 
 beginning to use them largely for decorative purposes. 
 Doubtless amateurs will follow suit. There is an 
 
 immense variety of 
 elegant species well 
 suited for bouquets, 
 and assortments of 
 twenty or thirty va- 
 rieties will be sup- 
 plied by any leading 
 seedsman for a mere 
 trifle. It is almost 
 needless to mention 
 that both Grasses and 
 Everlastings may be 
 mixed with ordinary flowers, either when fresh or in the 
 dried state. Of late years it has become the custom to 
 use both Immortelles and preserved autumnal foliage 
 along with the evergreens for Christmas decorations. 
 
 Basket of Flowers and Grasses, 
 
IMMORTELLES AND DRIED FLOWERS. 
 
 I6l 
 
 The Maple, Oak, and other leaves are very beautiful, 
 varying from pale yellow, through all the shades of red 
 and brown, to the deepest crimson tint imaginable ; 
 and being sold loose, they can be arranged according 
 to fancy. With the materials we have here indicated, 
 some very elegant arrangements in the way of wreaths, 
 crosses, bouquets, and vases may be made, according to 
 the taste and ingenuity of the artist. Our illustration 
 shows three ornamental vases neatly arranged with 
 Grasses and Everlastings as chimney-piece decora- 
 
 Chimney-piece Vases, with Flowers and Grasses. 
 
 tions, for which they are well adapted. Another 
 elegant arrangement is to fill a shallow basket with 
 flowers and Grasses, as shown above, thus forming a 
 graceful ornament for either the drawing-room or par- 
 lour table. 
 
 In addition to those flowers which are naturally 
 permanent, it has lately become part of our florists' 
 business to import large quantities of Roses, Pelar- 
 goniums, and other flowers, which have been arti- 
 ficially dried in heat and sand, as described on page 
 173. These in many cases possess their natural 
 
 L 
 
1 62 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 colours and perfume, but slightly impaired, and may- 
 be used either separately or along with the true Im- 
 mortelles, as recommended above. Some ladies may 
 like to dry flowers grown by themselves ; and we feel 
 sure they will find the system, as there recommended, 
 both simple and effective. Most of the dried flowers 
 imported to this country come from Germany, where 
 the florists dry them in immense quantities every year. 
 Beautiful ornaments may be made by crystallising 
 bouquets of different kinds of Grasses and ears of 
 corn. Most of our common British species may be 
 gathered from the meadows or roadsides, and come 
 in admirably for this purpose. Common Oats, Barley, 
 wild and cultivated Rye, different species of Bromus, 
 and bearded or horned Wheat, are all useful as afford- 
 ing variety. These should be gathered during bright 
 dry sunny weather, and then neatly arranged accord- 
 ing to taste. The Grasses should not be crowded too 
 closely together, or they look stiff and formal. Now 
 suspend them over a tub or other vessel ; and having 
 made a solution of alum in boiling water, pour it over 
 them when scalding hot, taking care that it reaches 
 every part of the bouquet. Use a pound of alum to a 
 quart of water, or more in proportion. After having 
 poured the solution over them, let them remain for at 
 least twelve hours, and then you will find them dry, 
 with a sparkling crystal glistening from every spray. 
 When finished, these are beautiful ornaments, and 
 last for a considerable time if kept clear from dust. 
 
 ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 
 
 The arrangement of decorative plants in rooms for 
 §ffect demands some degree of taste, just as the 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 163 
 
 composition of a beautiful bouquet or elegant wreath 
 of flowers does. Plants judiciously arranged look 
 better and grow better than when neglected, conse- 
 quently this subject is well worth the attention of all 
 
 Ornamental Flcwer-fots and Stands, with Plants of Ficus elastica and 
 Mauritia flexuosa. 
 
 who grow plants for the decoration of apartments. 
 Plants when grown in a well-constructed greenhouse 
 obtain abundance of light from all points ; but in an 
 ordinary apartment the case is different, all the light 
 
1 64 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 being derived from one or two windows, and from one 
 side of the room only. Soft-wooded plants, or those 
 
 Fireplace decorated with Ferns and Trailing-plants during the Summer. 
 
 Ornamental Screen of Fei-ns and Grasses for Fireplace during Summer. 
 
 with soft leaves, should be arranged as near the 
 window as possible ; and if they are rearranged once 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 165 
 
 a-week and turned round to the light they will be all 
 the better. Hard-leaved plants, as Palms, Agaves, 
 Ivy, Ficus, and the Kangaroo Vine (Cissus antarctica), 
 may be grown in any part of a well-lighted room, and 
 if tastefully grouped will add very materially to its 
 
 A Drawing-room Bracket. 
 
 appearance. Zinc pans neatly enamelled or painted 
 may be used in the case of large pots which have 
 to be set down on the floor or carpet. For smaller 
 plants which require elevating near the light, neat 
 rustic jardinettes or ornamental flower-stands may 
 be used with excellent eff'ect. A good bold plant 
 
1 66 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 may be chosen for the centre, and the smaller kinds 
 can be grouped around it in a tasteful manner. Avoid 
 all stiff or formal arrangements, and get as much of 
 the free and unrestrained grace of nature in your 
 window-boxes and flower-stands as possible. Do not 
 train beautiful trailing -plants over ugly ladders or 
 globe trellises, but allow them to droop naturally 
 from a bracket or hanging-basket. Brackets as shown 
 in our figure are very useful for Begonias, Ficus, 
 Isolepis, and other plants. For the centre of your 
 window or flower-stand, a Yucca, Ficus, Agave, Dra- 
 caena, Curculigo, or any other distinct and effective 
 plant, may be used with good effect. Yucca quadri- 
 color grown out of doors during the summer becomes 
 beautifully tinted with crimson, and is a noble plant 
 for the centre of the flower -stand during winter. 
 Agave variegata or Ficus elastica may be used in 
 the same way. For edgings nothing can be better 
 than small succulents in pots, such as Echeveria 
 globosa, E. secunda, E. californica, Sempervivums, or 
 Echinocactus Eyriesii. If something more graceful is 
 required, Isolepis gracilis and Festuca glauca may be 
 arranged alternately, and are very effective — the one 
 being of a fresh green colour, while the other is pale 
 blue. If wire-stands are employed they should be 
 furnished with zinc pans to prevent any moisture 
 from falling on the floor or carpet after the plants 
 are watered. Ivy grows well in the shade, and may 
 be employed for trailing around sofas or couches 
 (page 1 68), rustic picture-frames, positions in which 
 its beauty is seen to the best advantage ; and if the 
 frame contains the portrait of some departed friend, 
 Ivy is perhaps the most appropriate of all plants for 
 the purpose here suggested. When Ivy is grown for 
 wreathing picture-frames, plant it in a wedge-shaped 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 167 
 
 tin or zinc receptacle, and hang it on a nail in the wall 
 behind the picture. Where Ivy is trained on the wall 
 outside the window, a few long shoots can easily be 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 I i 
 
 
 Ivy-draped Mirror. 
 
 introduced and trained over a neat arch inside ; and 
 its fresh green foliage vifill render the look-out much 
 more beautiful by softening off the harsh angu- 
 
i68 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 larifies of the builder or architect. Many succulent 
 plants are well suited for the decoration of apartments 
 during the winter months if kept dry. They may be 
 grouped on a table or sideboard oppo- 
 site the light, and will prove far more 
 interesting than a lot of debilitated 
 Geraniums. Plants of permanent in- 
 terest are always useful, and add greatly 
 to the appearance of such flowering- 
 plants as may be from time to time 
 , grouped with them. Those who pos- 
 
 Tin tn wktch to "■ . 
 
 plant Ivy for sess Conservatories and greenhouses 
 
 Mirrors, &'c. (.g^jj always bring tender plants into 
 
 the house for decorative purposes, removing them 
 
 again when they have done flowering or are showing 
 
 Yuccas, New Zealand Flax, Palms, India-rubber, and Ivy grouped 
 around Sofa Arbour in the Drawing-room. 
 
 signs of exhaustion. In this way many plants can be 
 used for the decoration of apartments or ball-rooms 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 169 
 
 without doing them any permanent injury. The 
 plants generally employed by floral decorators for 
 this purpose are Palms of all kinds ; Dracaenas, as D. 
 congesta, D. robusta, D. terminalis, D. rubra, and 
 many others ; Phormium tenax, Curculigo recurvata, 
 Cycas circinalis, C. revoluta, Ficus elastica, F. macro- 
 phylla, F. lanceolata, F. falcata, F. Chauvierii, and 
 F. dealbata; while the pretty little F. (repens) stipulata, 
 and its even more elegant variety F. minima, are 
 much used for wreathing slender pedestals or stands. 
 For forming fresh green carpets nothing equals Selagi- 
 nella Kraussiana (hortensis) ; and this or wreaths of 
 common Ivy may be used to conceal the pots of 
 foliage-plants, or Hyacinths, Lilies, and other flower- 
 ing-plants, as may be required. Cyperus alternifolius 
 is a fine decorative plant, and quite distinct from any- 
 thing else ; while all the Aralias are bold and stand 
 well in rooms, especially if they have been grown in 
 the open air during summer. Ivy, Aralias, and many 
 other half-hardy shrubs and herbaceous plants, may 
 be grown in corridors or on the staircase -landings 
 where there is sufficient light ; or these can be deco- 
 rated temporarily with tender plants. The staircase 
 itself may be covered with crimson baize and then 
 looks very beautiful fringed on each side with Ferns, 
 Isolepis, Palms, and flowering-plants such as Bego- 
 nias, Lilies, Vallotas, Chrysanthemums, or Spiraeas. 
 The corners, and often the sides, of reception saloons 
 or ball-rooms are now most beautifully decorated with 
 groups of graceful Ferns, Palms, Cycads, and Yuccas. 
 We here introduce a ground-plan to show how this is 
 done, and it will be found to explain our meaning 
 better than any amount of descriptive matter. Mirrors 
 or pictures may be festooned with Ivy wreaths, and 
 garlands or flat bouquets may be suspended beneath 
 
I70 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 the gas-brackets. Choice flowers of bold form and 
 distinct colours may be used in any quantity, provided 
 that they are tastefully and judiciously arranged. 
 Stephanotis, Tuberoses, choice Orchids, Lilies, Euch- 
 aris, and other exotics, may be laid on cool beds of 
 Moss or Selaginella beneath graceful Palms and 
 
 
 Plan of Plants in a London Mansion. 
 
 elegant umbrella Sedges (Cyperus). Plants of the 
 Trumpet-lily (Richardia) are specially effective when 
 grouped with statues or elegant vases, while flowers 
 and foliage of the common white Water-lily (Nym- 
 phaea) or Gladioli are very pretty in tasteful groups. 
 Our figure represents a ground-plan of the recep- 
 
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS. 171 
 
 tion saloon at Bridgewater House, St James, W., as 
 furnished with Palms, Ferns, and flowering-plants for 
 a grand ball at which the Prince and Princess of Wales 
 were present. Unfortunately our engraving does not 
 show the exquisite blending of colours, or even the 
 free grace and beauty, of the original ; still some ideas 
 as to arrangement are here suggested. The saloon 
 was carpeted with crimson baize, which served to en- 
 hance the fresh greenness of the rare exotics employed ; 
 while the contrast was rendered still more apparent 
 by the bright glowing colours of the flowers being 
 associated with the cool grey granite columns that sup- 
 ported the spacious galleries above. During the past 
 season Mr John Wills, one of our most extensive floral 
 decorators, has used huge blocks of real ice tastefully 
 arranged in the form of obelisks and rockeries. These, 
 when illuminated from behind and wreathed with Ficus 
 repens. Creeping Jenny, Ivy, Lygodium scandens, or 
 Virginian Creeper, are very beautiful, and give one a 
 most delicious idea of coolness even during the hottest 
 of summer weather. At a ball given by the Prince and 
 Princess of Wales to the Czarevna of Russia in the 
 large conservatory of the Royal Horticultural Society 
 at South Kensington, ten tons of the finest ice were 
 employed in building an illuminated rockery. This 
 was draped with drooping ferns and graceful trailers, 
 while the base was fringed with slender-growing Ferns 
 and small pots of Isolepis gracilis and Selaginella. The 
 effect of the whole when surrounded by crimson baize 
 and illuminated from within, was strikingly effective 
 and much admired. In using ice in this way, provision 
 must be made for collecting or carrying off" the water 
 from the ice when thawing. In the case of solitary 
 blocks or obelisks' they can be arranged over claret- 
 casks sawn in half and concealed by Ferns and trail- 
 ing-plants of various kinds. Blocks or obelisks of 
 
1/2 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 sparkling ice are sometimes used on the dinner-table 
 with good - effect. In this case tables with deal tops 
 are used, and the cask or vessel to collect the drip is 
 concealed beneath : wreathed with fresh trailers and 
 well lighted these are very handsome. In grouping 
 plants the largest should of course stand behind, care 
 being taken to give due prominence to the central 
 plant in each group. Even common plants may be 
 made to look effective in apartments if a little taste, 
 forethought, and judgment be exercised in their 
 arrangement. For grouping in baskets we have 
 numerous elegant trailers, the best for room-culture 
 being Saxifraga sarmentosa (Sailor-plant), S. Fortunei, 
 S. tricolor, Sedum spectabile (S. fabarium), Fragaria 
 Indica, F. vesca, and F. semperflorens, Linaria cym- 
 balaria (Toadflax or Coliseum Vine), Tradescantia 
 zebrina, T. viride, Thunbergia alata, Convolvulus 
 mauritanicus, Lophospermum scandens, Lonicera 
 aurea reticulata, Asparagus decumbens, Myrsiphyl- 
 lum, Cereus flagelliformis, Crassula lactea, Panicum 
 variegatum. Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Tropseolum tri- 
 color, T. Lobbi, T. peregrinum or Canary Creeper, 
 Selaginella Kraussiana (S. denticulata), Lysimachia 
 nummularia (Creeping Jenny),Vinca minor, both green 
 and variegated kinds, Ampelopsis Veitchii (A. tri- 
 cuspidata), and all the beautiful hybrid Clematises. 
 
 The arrangement of plants in close cases and shades 
 is simple, but care should be taken to place the strong- 
 est-growing plants in the centre and the smallei* ones at 
 the sides. Do not crowd your cases or shades with 
 common plants, but reserve them for interesting Ferns 
 or other little curiosities that will not grow in the open 
 atmosphere of an ordinary apartment. Interesting 
 collections of tender Ferns and Pitcher-plants may 
 be grown in these handy little contrivances with but 
 
HOW TO DRY FLOWERS AND FERNS. 1 73 
 
 little trouble. The following list comprises some of 
 the prettiest and most interesting plants for a closed 
 plant-case, in a heated room : Selaginella denticu- 
 lata, S. apus (S. densd), Nertera depressa {Coral- 
 berried Moss), Dionsea muscipula {American Flytrap), 
 Drosera rotundifolia {Sundew), D. dichotoma {D. 
 binatd), D. spathulata, Cephalotus follicularis {Austra- 
 lian Pitcher-plant),'Dz.x\\ngtoma. Californica ( Californian 
 Pitcher-plant), Sarracenia purpurea {Huntsman's Qtp), 
 S. flava {Side-saddle Flower), S. Drummondii, Nepen- 
 thes phyllamphora {True Pitcher-plant), Platycerium 
 grande, P. alcicorne {Stags-horn Fern), Mammillaria 
 acanthophlegma, M. crucigera, M. bicolor.-KIenia ful- 
 gens, K. tomentosa, Stapelia of sorts {Carrion Flow'ers), 
 Masdevallia Lindenii, Odontoglossum Alexandrae, 
 Opuntia cylindrica, O. microdasys, and many other 
 plants equally interesting that will be found described 
 or named in Part III. 
 
 HOW TO DRY FLOWERS AND FERNS FOR 
 WINTER DECORATIONS. 
 
 In order to dry flowers, one or two systems may 
 be adopted according to the kinds which are to be 
 experimented upon. As we have already pointed 
 out in alluding to Everlastings, all they require is to 
 be cut when in the bud, or before they are fully 
 expanded, and hung in a dry room from which light, 
 especially bright sunlight, is excluded. Many kinds 
 of ordinary stove, greenhouse, and hardy flowers may 
 be dried very nicely in boxes of clean white sand, — 
 a method we shall now describe. Get a box about 
 2 feet long by 1 5 inches broad, and not more than 
 3j^ inches in depth. Instead of a wooden bottom. 
 
1 74 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 fix a piece of wire-gauze or netting ^ inch above 
 the bottom, so that it does not touch the board or 
 shelf on which the box is placed. Now take a 
 quantity of fine white sand, and render it perfectly- 
 clean by repeated washings in fresh water; after 
 which heat it over a clear fire, and stir a small piece 
 of stearine in amongst it to prevent its adhering to 
 the petals. Place the box on a thin board, and cover 
 the net with a thin layer of sand, on which such 
 flowers as are to be preserved may be placed. Care- 
 fully fill the flowers with sand without distorting their 
 shape, and shake or tap the box gently to settle all 
 firm. When one layer of flowers is covered add 
 another, and so on until the box is full ; after which 
 set it on a shelf in the greenhouse where it will 
 be fully exposed to bright sunshine. The time re- 
 quired to dry the flowers will vary according to the 
 state of the atmosphere and weather, but a week 
 is generally sufficient. When they are ready for 
 removal, lift the box gently ofi" the board or false 
 bottom and the sand trickles out, leaving the flowers 
 intact. It is strictly essential for the flowers to be cut 
 during fine dry weather; and they should be quite 
 separate while drying in the box. 
 
 A great variety of Aconitums, double Pelargoniums, 
 Delphiniums, Roses, Violas, Pansies, and other flowers, 
 may be dried in the above manner in perfection. 
 All the Statices, Phloxes, and fancy Pelargoniums are 
 beautiful treated by this method, which is that gen- 
 erally adopted by the German florists for drying 
 flowers in quantity. A little practice soon makes one 
 an adept at drying flowers ; and if the colours fade 
 too much, they can be added with water-colours and 
 a camel's -hair brush ; after which they should be 
 coated with a little thin transparent varnish. Pitchers 
 
HOW TO DRY FLOWERS AND FERNS. 175 
 
 of Nepenthes (Pitcher-plants), Cephalotus, and Sarra- 
 cenia dry beautifully in the way above described, 
 care being taken to fill their cavities with sand, and to 
 bed them in firmly. In the winter months this process 
 may be carried on by placing the boxes on hot-water 
 pipes, or in a warm cupboard by the fire ; but in the 
 latter case a much longer time will be required. The 
 urn-shaped appendages of Pitcher-plants are very 
 effective and interesting when nicely dried and var- 
 nished. Their colours keep better than many would 
 expect ; and they are distinct for grouping along 
 with dried Ferns, Grasses, autumnal foliage, or skele- 
 tonised seed-vessels and leaves. Grasses dry well 
 cut just before they come into full flower, hung up 
 as recommended for Immortelles. Ferns are very 
 beautiful, and dry well between the leaves of books, 
 old newspapers, or sheets of soft bibulous paper, after 
 which they can be arranged in tasteful designs or 
 on screens. I have dried hundreds of species in old 
 newspapers, and they are now as fresh as when cut 
 from the plants. Selaginellas dry and keep their 
 colour quite as well as Ferns. Very pretty screens 
 and ornamental window-decorations are now made 
 by enclosing dyed and varnished Fern fronds between 
 two sheets of clear glass. Gold and Silver Ferns 
 (Cheilanthes and Gymnogramma) look very delicate 
 arranged among the fresh green species, while Grasses 
 and skeletonised foliage may be added with excellent 
 effect. There is scarcely any limit to the great 
 variety attainable in these elegant embellishments to 
 homes of taste ; indeed variety is one of their principal 
 charms. In London during the past few years many 
 windows may have been noticed gracefully embellished 
 with dried Ferns of a fresh green colour. Ferns of 
 many kinds are arranged on both clear and frosted 
 
1/6 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 glass covered with another piece of glass of equal 
 size, fastened together, then mounted in either pol- 
 ished wood frames or direct into window-frames, 
 when, if the Ferns are gracefully placed, they look 
 very natural and beautiful. On frosted glass the 
 effect is peculiarly soft ; and we have seen staircase- 
 windows and door -panels fitted in this manner, 
 which were strikingly pleasing in effect. These same 
 decorations are also applied successfully to cabinet- 
 work and mirrors, when the Ferns are mounted on 
 silvered glass. The looking-glass fire-screens fitted 
 into grates are likewise similarly decorated, as are 
 plateaux and jardinieres. As cheval-screens on clear 
 glass, and with a bright fire or lamp shining through 
 them, the Ferns show to much advantage. Panels of 
 white silk decorated with Ferns and covered with 
 clear glass answer .admirably for boudoirs. Sea-weeds 
 may be used in the same manner for aquariums, and 
 with equal success. Occasionally other plants are 
 used) as branchlets of Asparagus and leaves of 
 Yarrows. There are, however, numbers of leaves 
 quite as well worthy of a place in decorations of this 
 kind as are the Ferns, and we hope decorators will 
 yet introduce many of these into their really artistic 
 and clever window-screens and other indoor embel- 
 lishments. The introduction of such pleasing natural 
 objects as Ferns and graceful foliage in the embellish- 
 ment of the house is certainly a step in the right 
 directian, and one which deserves all encouragement. 
 Smoking flowers with brimstone is a very good, 
 simple, and cheap way of drying flowers, especially 
 Asters, Roses, Fuchsias (single ones), Spiraeas (red- 
 flowered kinds, such as callosa, Douglasii), Ranuncu- 
 luses, Delphiniums, Cytisus. The Roses ought to be 
 quite open, but of course not too fully blown. The first 
 
HOW TO DRY FLOWERS AND FERNS. 1 77 
 
 thing necessary is to procure a chest suitable in size 
 to the quantity of flowers intended to be dried. I 
 find the best size for 
 general use is one 
 about 3 or 4 feet 
 square. In the un- 
 der part of one side 
 of the chest there 
 should be a small 
 opening (i), to be 
 closed by a bar (2), 
 through which the 
 basin containing 
 brimstone (6) must be 
 put into the chest. 
 
 Box for drying Flowers. 
 
 This opening must be covered inside with perforated 
 tin, in order to prevent those flowers from spoiling which 
 hang immediately over the basin. The chest should 
 be air-tight, and, in order to render it so, paper the 
 inside thoroughly. When the chest is ready for use, 
 nail small laths (A 3) on two opposite sides of the 
 interior, at a distance of about 6 inches apart ; on 
 these lay thin sticks, upon which you can arrange the 
 flowers (C). Care should be taken, however, that the 
 flowers on the sticks, as also the sticks themselves, 
 are not too close together, or the vapour will not 
 circulate freely through the vacant space around the 
 flowers. The best way to hang the flowers is to tie 
 two of them together by the ends of their stalks with 
 a piece of mat or thread, and afterwards place them 
 upon the sticks so as to prevent them from touching 
 each other (5), When the chest is sufficiently full of 
 flowers, close it carefully, place a damp cloth on the 
 sides of the lid, and some heavy stones upon the top 
 of it ; after which, take some brimstone, broken into 
 
 M 
 
178 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 small pieces, put it in a small flat basin (6), kindle it 
 with a match, and put it through the opening (i) in 
 the bottom of the chest and shut the bar (2). It is a 
 good plan to make an air-hole (4) on opposite sides 
 of the chest, which will assist the ignition of the 
 brimstone, and which should be closed when the 
 latter burns freely. Leave the chest undisturbed 
 for twenty-four hours, after which time it must be 
 opened, and if the flowers are sufficiently smoked they 
 will appear white ; if not, they must be smoked again, 
 when a little more brimstone may become necessary. 
 When sufficiently smoked, take the flowers out care- 
 fully and hang them in a dry airy place in the shade 
 for the purpose of drying, and in a few days or even 
 hours they will recover their natural colours, except 
 being only a shade paler. To give them a very 
 bright shining colour, plunge them into a mixture 
 of ten parts of cold water and one of good nitric acid, 
 drain off the liquid, and hang them up again in the 
 same way as before. Thus treated they will keep 
 for years. 
 
 The above directions have been supplied by my 
 friend M. Gustave Wermig, who has had large and 
 varied experience in this direction, having managed 
 the processes herein described for some of the largest 
 florists and exporters in Germany. 
 
 HOW TO COLOUR OR DYE FLOWERS, FERNS, 
 MOSSES, AND GRASSES. 
 
 Dyed flowers are, in our opinion, but slightly better 
 than artificial ones ; still there are, doubtless, some 
 who admire them as winter ornaments ; and for their 
 benefit we append the following instructions from the 
 ' Garden' as to their preparation : — 
 
HOW TO COLOUR OR DYE FLOWERS. 1 79 
 
 "Dyeing is especially used for the red Xeranthemum 
 annuum fl. pL, red Asters, and all kinds of ornamental 
 Grasses. Mix ten parts of fresh water with one part 
 of good nitric acid, plunge the flowers in, shake off" the 
 liquid, and hang them up to dry, as described in my 
 last articles. In this way Xeranthemums, which 
 should be cut when entirely open, will acquire a beau- 
 tiful bright red tint ; while Grasses only become a 
 little pale red on the tops, but will keep afterwards 
 for many years, and may, if needed, be coloured other- 
 wise at any time. Asters generally, when treated in 
 this way, are not so fine as if dried in sand, or smoked 
 with brimstone. To colour flowers and Grasses blue, 
 violet, red, scarlet, and orange, use the different kinds 
 of aniline, or Judson's dyes, which answer per- 
 fectly. The aniline dye should be dissolved in 
 alcohol before it is fit for use, in which condition 
 it should be kept in well-closed bottles until it is 
 required. It may also be purchased in a dissolved 
 condition of any respectable chemist. To colour by 
 means of aniline, take a porcelain or any other well- 
 glazed vessel, pour in some boiling water, and add as 
 much dissolved aniline as will nicely colour the water. 
 According to the quantity of aniline used, the colour 
 of the flowers will become more or less bright. After 
 the water has cooled a little, plunge in the flowers or 
 Grasses, and keep them in it till they are nicely 
 coloured ; then rinse in cold water, shake off" the 
 liquid, and hang them up in the open air to dry. To 
 obtain a fine blue, take anihne bleu de Han, boil the 
 colour with the water for five minutes, and then add a 
 few drops of sulphuric acid before using. For violet, use 
 one part aniline violet and one part of aniline bleu de 
 Han; for red, aniline fuchsin ; for scarlet, one part of 
 aniline fuchsin and one of aniline violet ; for orange, 
 aniline d'orange; for lemon colour, picric acid, which 
 
l80 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 should be dissolved in boiling water, and then thinned 
 with a little warm water. Dip in the flowers, but do 
 not drain off the liquid. All kinds of ornamental 
 Grasses can be thus coloured (especially Stipa pen- 
 nata and Ammobium alatum), white Xeranthemums 
 and most other everlasting flowers. Immortelles, 
 however, as well as the other kinds of Helichrysums, 
 must be treated differently. Their natural yellow 
 colour must first be extracted by dipping them in 
 boiling soap-water, made with Italian soap, and after- 
 wards dried in an airy, shady place. The flowers 
 generally become closed when thus treated, and should 
 be placed near an oven and subjected to the influence 
 of a dry heat, when they will soon reopen. This is 
 very important, if they are intended to be coloured ; 
 if not, they will remain fine pure white Immortelles. 
 Judson's dyes give a beautiful colour, but it does not 
 keep well, and becomes gradually paler. For this 
 purpose dissolve as much dye in cold water as will 
 colour it nicely, and then dip the flowers, but do 
 not allow them to remain in after they have taken 
 the colour ; if kept in too long, they will not again 
 open their flowers. The chief point in every mode 
 of colouring Immortelles is to place them first in 
 a dry, warm atmosphere, where they will open 
 their flowers well ; and, after colouring, they should 
 again be exposed to heat, by which means they will 
 nearly always reopen them. Very nice-looking Im- 
 mortelles are also produced by colouring only the 
 centre of each flower scarlet, which is done very 
 rapidly with dye, by means of a small pencil or 
 a thin wooden splinter, which is dipped into the 
 colour and afterwards applied to the centre. This 
 is generally done by little children in those estab- 
 lishments in Germany and' France which supply 
 
FERN-FROND DESIGNS. l8l 
 
 the trade with everlasting flowers. Finally, I shall 
 give a very cheap and very good recipe to colour 
 ornamental Grass and Moss a beautiful green. If 
 a dark green is required, take two parts of boiling 
 water, one ounce of alum, and half an ounce of dis- 
 solved indigo carmine ; plunge the Moss or Grass 
 into the mixture, shake off the liquid, and dry the 
 Grass or Moss in an airy, shady place. In the winter, 
 however, they should be dried by means of fire-heat. 
 If a light green is required, add to the above mixture 
 more or less picric acid, according as a more or less 
 light shade is required. 
 
 " I have now communicated all I know about the art 
 and secret of preserving flowers, which has become so 
 very important to our flower-trade during the last ten 
 years." 
 
 FERN-FROND DESIGNS. 
 
 Nature-printing gives excellent results, and we now 
 propose to treat of a plan by which very pretty designs 
 may be made at little trouble and expense. Many of 
 our lady readers may like to make designs or pictures 
 of Fern fronds and other foliage, and a little application 
 and manual dexterity will suffice to effect this, if the ■ 
 following directions are carefully followed : The mate- 
 rials necessary are Fern fronds and leaves, a few sheets 
 of white drawing-paper, or, better still, Bristol boards, 
 a stick of common Indian ink, an ordinary tooth- 
 brush, an ounce of small entomological pins, and a 
 common saucer or palette in which to mix the ink. 
 A few other little extra conveniences will be found 
 necessary by the operator, but these will easily be 
 supplied, as required, by a little forethought and in- 
 
1 82 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 genuity. In order to form a design, take a sheet of 
 paper and fasten it securely to a flat drawing-board ; 
 if it be damped and glued round its edges, so much 
 the better ; but if Bristol boards are employed, all 
 they require is four pins at the corners. Now arrange 
 your Fern fronds or leaves as gracefully as possible 
 on the paper, for the more neatly they are arranged 
 the better will be the design produced. Secure the 
 Ferns to the paper by sticking the small pins all over 
 them, especially around the edges of the fronds, as 
 every little lobe and pinnule must be securely pinned 
 down to the paper, as the work of arrangement pro- 
 ceeds. Do not arrange one frond over another, and, 
 when the group is completed according to taste, pro- 
 ceed as follows : Take your stick of Indian ink, and 
 rub it with a little water in a saucer ; now dip your 
 tooth-brush into the ink, and setting the board, on 
 which your Fern design is placed, upright against a 
 larger board or other support, proceed to sprinkle it 
 with the ink by drawing a pin across the bristles of 
 the brush. This throws ink in small drops and spots 
 all over the exposed parts of the paper not actually 
 occupied by the fronds. By careful manipulation, a 
 delicately-shaded effect may be obtained ; and it will 
 be noticed that, after the brush is first dipped, the ink 
 ■ is thrown in larger spots, and they gradually become 
 smaller and smaller, until the brush is empty. With 
 practice, the margin around the design can be shaded 
 off into the white paper, so as to produce a very deli- 
 cate and pretty effect. After the tint is worked on 
 deep enough, and the whole is dry, the fronds may be 
 removed, and the form of each will be found in white, 
 surrounded by the tinted ink ground. A very little 
 practice will suffice to enable any one with moderate 
 ingenuity to make charming ornaments for screens. 
 
FERN-FROND DESIGNS. 1 83 
 
 albums, or portfolios. By the above simple method, 
 when well done, every little pinnule is as true in shape 
 as in the Fern itself, and the representations thus ob- 
 tained are the best of portraits. Large bold fronds 
 or leaves are best to commence with ; but the most 
 delicate Maiden-hair and Filmy Ferns can be copied 
 with fidelity by practice, all they require being a little 
 more dehcacy in the manipulation. If desired, the 
 midrib and principal veins can be drawn in with a fine 
 lithographic or etching pen and Indian ink after the 
 fronds are removed. A pretty design for an album 
 or portfolio may be made by using a bold leaf, such 
 as that of Ficus elastica. Maple, or Lime, as a centre, 
 arranging a border of Ferns around it ; this forms an 
 oblong or heart-shaped space, in which a verse of 
 poetry may either be written or printed and illumin- 
 ated. Another plan is to cut a scroll out of paper, 
 and pin it down, surrounded by a border of small 
 Ferns ; then, on removing the paper and Ferns, the 
 white space remains for a motto or text. Our readers 
 are now in possession of the way to form very pretty 
 designs, and one of their greatest charms consists in 
 the immense variety of size, form, and arrangement 
 that may be adopted according to taste. The ink 
 employed can be varied in tint by mixing it with 
 water-colours, or the pure colours may be used alone 
 instead of the ink. Burnt sienna or sepia gives a very 
 nice effect ; and other tints, either in water-colours or 
 Judson's dyes, may be adopted according to taste. 
 By employing a different tint with each group, a great 
 variety of effect may be obtained ; and in this way 
 a large album might be filled with the most graceful 
 designs, so varied in colour, outline, and expression 
 that no two pages would present subjects which re- 
 semble each other. 
 
1 84 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 HOW TO SKELETONISE LEAVES AND SEED-VESSELS 
 FOR WINTER DECORATIONS. 
 
 Skeletonised foliage and seed-vessels, when care- 
 fully prepared, and arranged tastefully beneath a 
 glass shade, form charming ornaments for the draw- 
 ing-room table or sideboard. Being of an ivory white- 
 ness, they show well, arranged on either crimson or 
 black velvet, their texture rivalling that of the finest 
 lace. The preparation of these beautiful objects forms 
 a pleasing amusement during leisure hours, especially 
 for our lady friends ; nor are they without scientific 
 interest, since a comprehensive series, carefully pre- 
 pared and correctly named, would be specially useful 
 to the botanist. They are very pretty arranged on 
 coloured paper in an ornamental album, or formed 
 into elegant designs by gluing them on a Bristol 
 board, along with dried Fern fronds and light feathery 
 Grasses. The best method of preparation we have 
 yet tried is that given by Mr Robinson in the ' Garden,' 
 and which we here introduce in the author's own 
 words : 
 
 " The old method, as most of my readers are aware, 
 was simply to immerse the leaves beneath water for 
 several weeks until the epidermis and parenchyma 
 had decayed ; then, taking them out, to rub off the 
 decayed fleshy or cellular matter in a bowl of clean 
 water. To say the least of this method, it was very 
 unsatisfactory, and often yielded results far from pleas- 
 ing, without taking into consideration the great amount 
 of patience needful to complete the process. Now, 
 thanks to chemistry, we have another and a better 
 plan, not occupying as many hours as the old decay- 
 ing method took weeks to accomplish. An excellent 
 
HOW TO SKELETONISE LEAVES, ETC. 185 
 
 recommendation for processes of this kind is their 
 simplicity ; as anything complicated, or requiring ex- 
 pensive requisites in its performance, is sure to be 
 scouted, or, at most, to gain but few adherents. 
 Most of my lady friends to whom I have recom- 
 mended the undermentioned process for skeletonis- 
 ing leaves, have fallen so much in love with it as to 
 follow it up constantly in the autumn, merely for 
 amusement. The result has been the production of 
 many an elegant drawing-room ornament, either 
 
 Cross of Skeletonised 
 Leaves. 
 
 Wreath of Skeletonised 
 Leases. 
 
 placed in the vase or mounted for framing beneath 
 glass, as a permanent record .of their industry. First 
 dissolve four ounces of common washing-soda in a 
 quart of boiling water, then add two ounces of slaked 
 quicklime, and boil for about fifteen minutes. Allow 
 this solution to cool ; afterwards pour off all the clear 
 liquor into a clean saucepan. When the solution is at 
 the boiling-point, place the leaves carefully in the pan, 
 and boil the whole together for an hour. Boiling 
 water ought to be added occasionally, but sufficient 
 
1 86 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 only to replace that lost by evaporation. The epider- 
 mis and parenchyma of some leaves will more readily 
 separate than in others. A, good test is to try the 
 leaves after they have been gently simmering (boiling) 
 for about an hour, and if the cellular matter does not 
 easily rub off betwixt the finger and thumb beneath 
 cold water, boil them again for a short time. When 
 the fleshy matter is found to be sufficiently softened, 
 rub them separately, but very gently, beneath cold 
 water until the perfect skeleton is exposed. The 
 skeletons at first are of a dirty white colour : to make 
 them pure white, and therefore more beautiful, all 
 that is necessary is to bleach them in a weak solution 
 of chloride of lime. I have found the best solution 
 is a large teaspoonful of chloride of lime to a quart 
 of water ; if a few drops of vinegar are added to 
 the bleaching solution it is all the better, for then 
 the chlorine is liberated. Do not allow them to 
 remain too long in the bleaching liquor, or they 
 will become very brittle, and cannot afterwards be 
 handled without injury. About fifteen minutes is 
 sufficient to make them white and clean - looking. 
 After the specimens are bleached, dry them in white 
 blotting-paper beneath a gentle pressure. Of course 
 in this, as in other things, a little practice is needful 
 to secure perfection. Simple leaves are the best for 
 young beginners to experiment upon : Vine, Poplar, 
 Ficus, Beech, and Ivy leaves make excellent skeletons. 
 Seed-vessels of the Thorn-apple (Datura Strammo- 
 nium), and the Cape Gooseberry, Physalis edulis, and 
 P. alkakengi are easily prepared, and afford variety. 
 Care must be exercised in the selection of leaves, as 
 well as the period of the year and the state of the 
 atmosphere when the specimens are collected, other- 
 wise failure will be the result. The best months to 
 
FLORAL ODOURS AND PERFUMES. 1 87 
 
 gather the specimens are July to September. Never 
 collect specimens in damp weather, and none but per- 
 fectly-matured leaves ought to be gathered." 
 
 FLORAL ODOURS AND PERFUMES. 
 
 Our fair readers may be interested to learn where, 
 for the most part, the flowers grow, the sweet perfume 
 of which is found in those "^xeXty flacons on their dress- 
 ing-tables. The chief places of their growth are the 
 south of France and Piedmont — namely, Montpellier, 
 Grasse, Nimes, Cannes, and Nice ; these two last espe- 
 cially are the paradise of Violets, and furnish a yearly 
 product of about 1 3,000 lb. of Violet-blossoms. Nice 
 produces a harvest of 100,000 lb. of Orange-blossoms, 
 and Cannes as much again, and of a finer colour : 500 
 lb. of Orange-blossoms yield about 2 lb. of pure 
 Neroli oil. At Cannes the Acacia thrives well, and 
 produces yearly about 9000 lb. of Acacia-blossoms. 
 One great perfumery distillery at Cannes uses yearly 
 about 140,000 lb. of Orange-blossoms, 140,000 lb. of 
 Rose-leaves, 32,000 lb. of Jasmine-blossoms, 20,000 
 lb. of Violets, and 8000 lb. of Tuberoses, together 
 with a great many other sweet herbs. The extrac- 
 tion of the ethereal oils, the small quantities of 
 which are mixed in the flowers with such large 
 quantities of other vegetable juices that it requires 
 about 600 lb. of Rose-leaves to win one ounce of 
 Otto of Roses, demands a very careful treatment. 
 The French, favoured by their climate, are the most 
 active, although not always the most careful, preparers 
 of perfumes : half of the world is furnished by this 
 branch of their industry. The celebrated Attar of 
 Roses, or Rose- oil, comes almost wholly from the 
 
1 88 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 southern slopes of the Balkan mountains. There 
 are at least one hundred and fifty places where its 
 preparation is carried on, the most important of all 
 being Kizanlik. The Roses are planted in rows, like 
 Vines. The flowers are gathered in May, and, with 
 the green calyx -leaves attached, are subjected to dis- 
 tillation. 5000 lb. of Roses yield i lb. of oil. As 
 may be expected, so valuable an article is often 
 adulterated. The added substance is " rosia " oil, 
 often called Geranium-oil when procured from Egypt. 
 This oil comes from species of Grass. 
 
 From Italy we obtain Iris or Orris root and fra- 
 grant Bergamot. One of our learned professors has 
 made some interesting researches which lead him to 
 assert that vegetable perfumes exercise a healthful 
 influence on the atmosphere, by converting its oxygen 
 into ozone, and thus increasing its oxidising influence. 
 The essences that develop the largest quantities of 
 ozone, are those of Cherry Laurel, Cloves, Lavender, 
 Mint, Juniper, Lemons, Fennel, and Bergamot ; and 
 others, including Anise, Nutmeg, Cajeput, and Thyme, 
 also develop it, but in more limited quantities ; while 
 the flowers of Narcissus, Hyacinth, Mignonette, Helio- 
 trope, and Lily of the Valley, also develop consider- 
 able quantities of ozone in closed vessels. Flowers 
 destitute of perfume do not develop this subtle 
 health - producing substance ; while those having a 
 slight perfume, develop it only in small quantities. 
 As a corollary from these facts, he recommends the 
 use of fragrant flowers around dwellings in marshy 
 or malarious districts, and in districts infested with 
 animal emanation.s, as the powerful oxidising influ- 
 ence of ozone will, to a large extent, neutralise their 
 bad eff"ects. 
 
 In order to extract the odour from Roses, Violets, 
 
LEAF-PRINTING. 1 89 
 
 Pinks, and other fragrant flowers, proceed as follows : 
 " Get a glass funnel, with the narrow end drawn to a 
 point. In this place lumps of ice sprinkled with com- 
 mon salt, by which a low temperature is produced. 
 The funnel should be supported on an ordinary retort- 
 stand, and placed in close proximity to the flowering- 
 plants, when water and the ethereal odour of the 
 blossom will be deposited on the interior of the glass 
 funnel, from which it gradually trickles down to the 
 point and slowly drops into a glass bottle placed im- 
 mediately below. The perfume thus obtained is a 
 very pure abstract, but will become sour in a day or 
 two unless mingled with a little pure alcohol. To ob- 
 tain the odours in perfection, the flowers must be in 
 the freshest and most perfect condition ; and by this 
 process, simple as it is, many odours may be obtained 
 either for comparison or study." Another method of 
 obtaining perfumes from flowers is to immerse them in 
 pure animal fat for a few days, and afterwards extract 
 the perfume by pouring alcohol over the whole. 
 
 A good recipe for scent-powder, to be used for 
 wardrobes, boxes, &c., far finer than any mixture sold 
 at the shops, is the following : Coriander, Orris-root, 
 Rose-leaves, and aromatic Calamus, each one ounce .; 
 Lavender flowers, two ounces ; Rhodium wood, one 
 fourth of a drachm ; Musk, five grains. These are to 
 be mixed and reduced to a coarse powder. This 
 scent on clothes is as if all the fragrant flowers had 
 been pressed in their folds. 
 
 LEAF-PRINTING FROM NATURAL SPECIMENS. 
 
 For the following excellent instructions I am in- 
 debted to Mr W. Robinson, conductor of the ' Gar- 
 
1 90 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 den,' who has kindly permitted me to use them in 
 this work. 
 
 "There are several different methods in use for 
 printing or photographing leaves, some of which are 
 exceedingly simple. First select the leaves, &c., then 
 carefully press and dry them. If they are placed in 
 a botanical press, care must be exercised not to put 
 too great a pressure on the specimens at first, or they 
 will be spoiled for printing. I have always found an 
 old book the best for drying the examples to be used. 
 Fibrous leaves, such as the Birch, Oak, and Maple, 
 make the best photographs. Never think of printing 
 leaves which are either covered with hairs, or are 
 rough and uneven ; it will only lead to unsatisfactory 
 results. Mature leaves only should be gathered, not 
 succulent or young leaves ; neither attempt to print 
 any leaf with a thick epidermis, such as Bay-leaves. 
 The best for a beginner are the fronds (leaves) of Ferns, 
 the Maiden-hair, Parsley, Hart's-tongue, and Poly- 
 pody, Sea Spleenwort, the little Wall-rue Spleenwort, 
 and Centipede Spleenwort ; nay, you can scarcely 
 choose any Fern that will not produce excellent re- 
 sults. The most lovely album pictures I have ever 
 seen were printed from Fern fronds by one of the 
 following processes. Not only are they pretty objects, 
 either framed for mantelshelf ornamentation, or in the 
 album, but botanists, and more especially every gar- 
 dener who is interested in pteridology, should print 
 the fronds of every species of Fern they can procure, 
 afterwards mount them in a blank book on the left- 
 hand page, then on the right-hand page write the 
 name and habitat, with a description by which it may 
 be recognised, the method of cultivation, and any 
 other useful memoranda ; by this means, in a short 
 time, he will have compiled a volume full of deep 
 
LEAF-PRINTING. I9I 
 
 interest and utility. Many persons cannot afford to 
 purchase expensive works on pteridology, yet they 
 may soon form a permanent record for their own 
 reference, which will be more valuable to them than 
 any other work. I throw in these remarks as a hint 
 worth notice by practical horticulturists. 
 
 "Requisites. — The really useful requisites for Fern 
 photography are two pieces of glass of the size you 
 intend your pictures to be ; common window or crown 
 glass without air-bubbles, which may be bought from 
 any glazier, will answer the purpose admirably. For 
 the last process described, one of the glass squares 
 should be cut in two equal parts and a strip of muslin 
 pasted over the division to form a kind of hinge. 
 Then you will require paper, which should also be of 
 one regular size. If a photographer was asked as to 
 the best kind, he would at once recommend the al- 
 bumenised paper, which he uses for his carte portraits ; 
 but as I wish to point out how to work cheaply as 
 well as efficiently, I would request my readers to use 
 only the best wove letter-paper. With a sharp- 
 pointed penknife you may afterwards cut it the size 
 you wish. I must warn the inexperienced not to use 
 what is known in the stationery trade as ' laid paper.' 
 We often see on the quarter-ream packet of note- 
 paper, the words 'the best cream laid note:' never 
 use this ; it will not succeed if you do. On the laid 
 paper the peculiar wire-marks left by the manufac- 
 turer are to be seen when held up to the light ; 
 eschew this by all means. The wove papers are 
 devoid of these marks. White paper only, of course, 
 should be used. 
 
 " The above are the needful requisites to work with, 
 or the ' stock-in-trade.' It is well, however, to have at 
 hand a few American clothes-pegs, or spring clips. 
 
192 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 ■vvhich may be purchased for a penny each from most 
 ironmongers. Of course a few chemicals are required. 
 In working with these, great cleanliness must be ob- 
 served. Hard or spring water must not be employed ; 
 use, if you can procure it, nothing but distilled water, 
 or what will answer equally as well, clean and pure 
 rain-water. The chemicals requisite are nitrate of 
 silver, prussiate of potash, bichromate of potash, blue 
 vitriol or sulphate of copper, and hyposulphite of 
 soda. Keep the chemicals in bottles properly labelled, 
 to prevent any accidents and confusion ; they will not 
 be kept so cleanly if preserved in papers. 
 
 " Photographic 'Printing. — We will first describe the 
 most simple mode of photo-printing, and then proceed 
 to more difficult and complex formulas. Dissolve in 
 a clean half-pint medicine bottle, four drachms (half 
 an ounce) of prussiate of potash in about four table- 
 spoonfuls of rain-water. When it is all dissolved, so 
 that none is visible in the bottle, pour half of the solu- 
 tion in a dinner-plate, and float on its surface for a 
 few minutes a sheet of paper of the size intended. 
 After sufficient of the chemical is absorbed, hang it 
 up on the edge of a shelf, by sticking a pin through 
 one of the corners, to dry. All these operations 
 should be performed in a dark room. A candle, how- 
 ever may be used, because the rays of light emitted 
 by a candle, being yellow, do not affect the sensitised 
 or prepared paper. A better plan, perhaps, is to 
 brush the solution over the paper by means of a large 
 camel-hair pencil. Let cleanliness be observed, or 
 the attempt will end in failure and disappointment. 
 Lay upon one of your glass sheets three or four folds 
 of white blotting-paper; upon this the dried and 
 sensitised prussiate of potash paper, with the prepared 
 surface uppermost, and upon this place the Fern frond 
 
LEAF-PRINTING. 1 93 
 
 or Other selected and dried leaf. Upon the leaf lay 
 the other sheet of glass (perform all this in the dark 
 room), then, to keep the leaf and sheets from moving, 
 fasten one of the clothes-clips on each end. Place the 
 glass in the open air, under the direct influence of clear 
 sunlight if possible. If the day is at all cloudy, it will 
 take much longer to print ; but with a clear sky, &c., 
 it will probably be half an hour or thereabouts before 
 it is sufficiently exposed. Be sure, however, to expose 
 it a sufficient length of time ; a little practice will 
 soon teach you how long to leave it in the sun. Now 
 watch the paper, and you will gradually observe the 
 part not covered by the leaf changing from a yellowish 
 hue to a bright blue. The latter will deepen until it 
 is almost black. When you believe it is sufficiently 
 exposed to the sun's rays, remove the leaf, glasses, 
 &c., and you will find printed on the paper a yellow 
 outline of the leaf on a deep blue ground. Now wash 
 the paper in water, changing it frequently, until you 
 observe the yellow change to a white — the whiter the 
 better. By this means all the chemical is dissolved 
 from the paper, leaving the part where the leaf lay, a 
 clear, distinct white. If the glasses are removed too 
 soon, the picture will be pale, and if they are left too 
 long in the sunlight the blue ground will fade. 
 
 " The Best Process. — The best process of Nature- 
 printing is, without doubt, the following, although it 
 requires much more care, patience, and neatness than 
 the foregoing. As the prepared papers are exceed- 
 ingly sensitive to light, the directions in respect to a 
 dark room must be strictly adhered to. The chemicals, 
 which should always be dissolved in bottles ready for 
 use, are as follows : First, a solution of nitrate of 
 silver, containing i drachm or 60 grains to each ounce 
 of pure or filtered rain-water. Any druggist will pre- 
 
 N 
 
194 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 pare this solution in a fev/ minutes with distilled 
 water, which can be relied upon for good results. 
 Then a solution of hyposulphite of soda is needed, 
 containing two ounces to each half-pint of water. To 
 work well, and secure reliable prints, use only the 
 albumenised paper, which is kept ready for sale by 
 every photographic chemist ; and, if possible, procure 
 a glass rod, to save the hands from being stained. 
 Always have the bottles containing the solutions cor- 
 rectly labelled. When you have cut the paper to the 
 size required, pour the nitrate of silver solution on a 
 shallow dish, and float the pieces of paper separately 
 with the prepared surface on the liquid for about ten 
 minutes. In doing so, take care no air-bubbles are 
 beneath the paper, or it is useless for printing ; when 
 you detect any bubbles, gently lift up the paper with 
 the glass rod, and taking hold of the corner with the 
 finger and thumb of the left hand, remove the bubbles 
 by touching the part with the rod. A little practice 
 will soon make you perfect in sensitising the paper. 
 After floating the papers for about ten minutes take 
 them out, and drain them for a few minutes on the 
 dish, so that no silver may be lost ; then hang them 
 up in a dark closet by pinning the corner on a string 
 suspended across the room. In sensitising the paper 
 always wear old kid gloves, as well as any old gar- 
 ments you may happen to have at hand ; the solution 
 being so liable to spoil the clothes and injure the skin 
 that this advice is very needful. It is well to prepare 
 a quantity of papers beforehand ; they will keep for 
 several days ; the only difference is that newly-sensit- 
 ised papers print much more rapidly — some people 
 say they give better pictures, and probably it is so ; 
 however, if they are to be kept, take care no sunlight 
 is admitted to them. The printing part of the process 
 
LEAF-PRINTING. 195 
 
 is exactly similar to the first method, only it needs 
 watching more carefully, and in using the glasses 
 place the one cut into two parts and hinged at 
 the bottom beneath the blotting-papers and Fern 
 frond : when the printing is going on you can turn 
 them up and examine the picture ; only do not dis- 
 place the leaves ever so slightly, or the picture will be 
 useless. A good rule is to print the picture much 
 darker than you intend it to be when complete, 
 because in the fixing process it becomes much lighter. 
 After being exposed, wash the print in clean water to 
 take away the excess of silver ; you cannot wash it 
 too well. Then having placed the hyposulphite of 
 soda solution in another dish, place the picture be- 
 neath it. Do not float it as in the bath, but constantly 
 keep it moving about with the fingers for about fifteen 
 minutes, not longer. This is to fix the impression 
 and make it a permanent picture. Then wash it, 
 changing the water frequently. Do not allow a drop 
 of the fixing solution to remain on the paper, or it 
 will stain it yellow, which, if nothing more, will make 
 it unsightly. All you have now to do is to dry 
 the picture, either in a book or betwixt folds of 
 blotting-paper, beneath a gentle pressure. The last 
 process is, after all, the best, yielding permanent and 
 truthful results. Some Fern variety, which perhaps has 
 never been figured in any book, by this means can be 
 printed " true to nature," and can be referred to with 
 pleasure in after -years. I have seen a fair-sized 
 volume containing on one page a nature-printed or 
 photographed Fern frond, and on the opposite page, 
 as described above, a short but correct and faithful 
 description, &c. This was the best volume on British 
 Ferns and their varieties I have ever seen." 
 
 A Simple Process. — Good impressions of leaves and 
 
196 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 Fern, fronds can also be obtained by laying the leaf or 
 frond on a smooth surface, and giving it a slight coating 
 of printers' ink with a soft leather dabber or the ball 
 of the hand, after which the leaf must be placed on a 
 sheet of white paper that has previously been damped 
 by being placed between sheets of moist blotting- 
 paper. Now place the paper and the leaf in any old, 
 flat book, and subject it to firm pressure in a copying- 
 press. The chief thing to be looked after is not to use 
 too much ink, and it should be well worked with the 
 dabber on a piece of smooth slate before it is applied 
 to the leaf. By inking both sides of the leaf and placing 
 it between two sheets of paper, two impressions can be 
 taken at once, so as to show both sides of the foliage. 
 
 HOW TO FORM A HERBARIUM OF WILD OR 
 CULTIVATED FLOWERS. 
 
 A herbarium, or collection of dried Ferns, Mosses, 
 and flowering-plants, is very useful to the cultivator 
 as well as to the botanist. Most of the beautiful 
 Alpines, Sea - weeds, and other interesting plants, 
 may be pressed and dried in old books or blotting- 
 paper with but little trouble ; and, like sketches, they 
 recall many pleasant scenes, incidents, and associations 
 far more vividly than dry details in our note-books or 
 diary. The following instructions, which are slightly 
 modified from the remarks of the eminent botanist 
 and collector Dr Asa Gray, on the subject, will, we 
 have no doubt, supply all the information required : — 
 
 " For collecting specimens, the only things needful 
 are a small round trowel (or a large knife, strong 
 enough to be used for digging up bulbs, small root- 
 stalks, &c., as well as for cutting woody branches), 
 
HOW TO FORM A HERBARIUM. 197 
 
 and a botanical box or vasculum to hold the speci- 
 mens collected. These boxes are made of tin, and 
 in shape resemble a sandwich-case, the lid opening 
 for nearly the whole length on one side. They are 
 made in various sizes ; the most convenient and 
 generally useful perhaps is one about fifteen inches 
 in length by six inches across. A strong, well- 
 japanned box of these dimensions will cost about 
 half-a-crown. 
 
 " The specimens collected should be either in flower 
 or in fruit. In the case of herbaceous plants, the same 
 specimen will often exhibit both at the same time, and 
 both should be secured whenever it is possible. Of 
 small herbs, especially annuals, the whole plant, root 
 and all, should be taken. Of larger ones, branches 
 will suffice, with some of the leaves near the root. 
 Enough of the root should be retained to show 
 whether the plant is an annual or a perennial. Thick 
 roots, bulbs, tubers, or branches should be thinned 
 with a knife, or cut into slices lengthwise. 
 
 " For drying the specimens, a good supply of soft 
 and unsized paper — the more porous and bibulous 
 the better — is wanted, together with some convenient 
 means of applying pressure. All that is requisite to 
 make good dried botanical specimens is to dry them 
 as rapidly as possible between many layers or sheets 
 of paper, to absorb their moisture, under as much 
 pressure as can be given without crushing the more 
 delicate parts. The best drying-paper is that which 
 is made specially for the purpose, and which may be 
 obtained from Mr E. Newman, 9 Devonshire Street, 
 Bishopsgate, London, E.; but the softer sorts of cheap 
 thick wrapping-paper will answer very well. The dry- 
 ing-pads are made by stitching from eight to a dozen 
 sheets lightly together round the edges. 
 
198 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 " When the specimens are brought home after the 
 day's collecting, each plant should be carefully laid 
 out in a folded sheet of thin, smooth, unsized paper, 
 the flowers and leaves being arranged in the position 
 which they are to retain when dried. The folded 
 sheet with its enclosed specimen is then to be placed 
 between two of the drying-pads, and these again be- 
 tween two smoothly -planed boards of suitable size. 
 Placing the whole on a table or on the floor, a weight 
 of half a hundredweight or more is put on the upper 
 board, and the specimens are so left until about the 
 same hour next day, when the pads are to be removed 
 and fresh well-dried ones put in their place, the boards 
 and weights being also replaced as before. The pads 
 which have been used are to be hung up to dry, so 
 that they may take their turn at the next shifting. 
 This process must be repeated daily until the speci- 
 mens are no longer moist to the touch, which for most 
 plants requires about a week ; after which they may 
 be transferred to the sheets of paper in which they 
 are to be preserved. If very thick pads are used, it 
 is not necessary to change them every day after the 
 first two or three days. It is also to be observed that 
 several pairs of pads, each with its enclosed specimen, 
 may be placed between the same pair of boards, but 
 in that case the weight applied to the upper board 
 must be proportionately increased. 
 
 " When the specimens are quite dry, they may be 
 kept in folded sheets of neat and rather thick white 
 paper ; or they may be fastened on half-sheets of such 
 paper, either by slips of gummed paper, or by glue 
 applied to the specimens themselves. Each sheet 
 should be appropriated to one species ; two plants 
 of different species should never be attached to the 
 same sheet. The generic and specific name of the 
 
CHURCH DECORATIONS. 199 
 
 plant- should be written in the lower right-hand 
 corner, where the time of collection, the locality, the 
 colour of the flowers, and any other information 
 which the specimens themselves do not afford, should 
 be also duly recorded. The sheets should be all of 
 the same size. The herbarium of Linnaeus is on 
 paper of the common foolscap size, about eleven 
 inches long and seven wide ; but this is too small 
 for a herbarium of any magnitude. Sixteen inches 
 and a half by ten and a half, or eleven and a half, is 
 a more convenient size. The sheets containing the 
 species of each genus should be placed in genus 
 covers (made of a full sheet of thick coloured paper), 
 which fold to the same dimensions as the species 
 sheet, and the name of the genus is to be written on 
 one of the lower corners. These should be arranged 
 under the orders to which they belong, and the whole 
 kept in closed cases or cabinets, either laid flat in com- 
 partments like large ' pigeon-holes,' or else placed in 
 thick portfolios, arranged like folio volumes, and hav- 
 ing the names of the orders lettered on the back." 
 
 CHURCH DECORATIONS. 
 
 A few remarks on this subject may be of service to 
 some of our readers, as the decoration of churches is 
 now much more popular than it was a few years ago, 
 and the decorations themselves are carried out with 
 more good taste and refinement than was formerly 
 the case. The first recollection we have of church 
 decorations dates back to the time when it was con- 
 sidered sufficient to fill the ancient font at Christmas 
 with an armful of Holly and Ivy, and to stick a few 
 sprigs of Laurel, Holly, or Box in gimblet-holes 
 
200 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 bored in the tops of the old-fashioned high-backed 
 pews. All the decoration our church received was 
 then done by a grumbling old sexton in a couple of 
 hours ; but now the case is widely diiiferent, for we 
 have Easter decorations, and harvest decorations, in 
 addition to the time-honoured display usually made 
 at Christmas, and each of these occupy fully a week, 
 while most of the materials are in readiness (thanks 
 to our fair friends at the Rectory) even before that 
 time. We are most decidedly in favour of the deco- 
 ration of churches, provided always that the decora- 
 tions are simple and appropriate. Beautiful flowers, 
 evergreens, and silver Immortelles may be used for 
 Christmas or Easter; while for the harvest thanks- 
 givings we can also use corn, autumnal foliage, and 
 fruits tastefully arranged. Flowers are admissible 
 into our temples on all occasions, as the fairest and 
 most beautiful works of the great Creator ; they 
 breathe only of purity, sweetness, and truthT— while 
 they teach lessons of peace, contentment, and humility 
 to us all. " Consider the lilies of the field, how they 
 grow ; they toil not, neither do they spin : yet Solo- 
 mon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of 
 these." The decoration of temples with beautiful 
 flowers dates back for centuries, while it is at the 
 present time practised in nearly every civilised 
 country in the world. In Mexico and Peru it is 
 customary to place the most beautiful Orchids and 
 other choice flowers on the altars and shrines ; and 
 the custom is also popular in various parts of India. 
 
 The introduction of beautiful natural objects into 
 our places of public worship is not done merely to 
 satisfy the eye with pleasing forms and glowing 
 colours, since any kind of artificial ornaments, pro- 
 vided they were graceful, would do this almost as 
 
CHURCH DECORATIONS. 201 
 
 well as natural flowers. They are introduced, or 
 ought to be used, as appropriate incentives to kindly- 
 thoughts and pure religious feelings ; hence we should 
 avoid the employment of paltry effects in stained 
 Immortelles or gaudy paper-flowers, as being in bad 
 keeping with the object we desire to attain. If we 
 bear the object of church decorations in mind, and 
 endeavour to attain that object, there will be but little 
 fear of inharmonious combinations, or the introduc- 
 tion of anything likely to offend the good taste of 
 any one present. All laboured attempts at religious 
 decoration are superfluous, and often spoil the effect 
 one has in view. We use flowers and fruits to give an 
 idea of God's bounty and providential goodness ; and 
 the more simple our arrangements are, the more 
 likely is this end to be attained. Simplicity and 
 graceful beauty or elegance are more often synony- 
 mous than is generally supposed, and this is especially 
 the case with regard to floral decorations for churches. 
 Wreaths of Ivy and other evergreens are very useful 
 in Christmas decorations, and are easily made on 
 thick twine or cord. Small sprays or little branchlets 
 are preferable to single leaves, as they go further, and 
 are not so stiff and formal as those made with leaves 
 stripped from the stems. To make a wreath, take a 
 branch or spray of foliage, and commence at one end 
 of your cord. Lay the branch along the cord point- 
 ing towards the end from which you start, and just 
 loop it round with a bit of thin twine. Now add 
 another spray and loop it in the same -^ay. This 
 last loop should also just catch the base of the first 
 spray or branch, so that by tying in this way every 
 branchlet is looped round twice, and thus firmly 
 secured in its place. Clusters of white Immortelles or 
 scarlet berries alternately are very effective in wreaths 
 
202 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 of dark -green foliage. The twine used for tying 
 should be cut into lengths 6 feet long, and should 
 be looped round the stems without cutting. Longer 
 lengths than this will be awkward to draw through 
 the noose. Green and variegated Ivies, Hollies, and 
 Euonymus, make nice wreaths, as also do sprays of 
 Portugal Laurel, Aucuba, Juniper, Thuja, Yew, Ta- 
 marisk, and Box. Light and graceful wreaths look 
 well twined spirally round columns, or carried round 
 the tracery of Gothic arches, or the mullions of large 
 windows. For the altar-cloth nothing looks better 
 than a simple cross of silvery Immortelles and Grasses. 
 This should be large enough to stand out clear and 
 bright ; but the size will be regulated by the dimen- 
 sions of the cloth itself We have tried many devices 
 for the altar-cloth and pulpit, but nothing is better 
 than a bold cross or the monogram IHS either in 
 white Immortelles or scarlet berries. Texts taste- 
 fully formed in foliage and berries look well on 
 scrolls or shields ; while neat wooden shapes may be 
 used for initials, monograms, and pleasing geometrical 
 designs, such as crosses of various shapes, circles, or 
 stars. Any carpenter or model-maker will make 
 them in a few hours (see fig.) Some make these 
 designs by gluing leaves and berries on pasteboard 
 shapes. If the cloth is crimson or dark blue the 
 Everlastings stand out clear and bright, and are then 
 very effective. The flowers used in Easter or harvest 
 decorations should be of graceful form, bright or 
 distinct colours, and should be arranged so that the 
 individual beauty of each blossom is seen in addition 
 to the general effect. All kinds of Lilies are very 
 suitable, especially Lilium speciosum and its varieties. 
 The foliage and flowers of the chaste Trumpet-lily 
 (Richardia sethiopica) are unsurpassed for the altar, 
 
CHURCH DECORATIONS. 
 
 203 
 
 Church Decorations. 
 
204 
 
 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 and last a considerable time after being cut from 
 the plant. A good specimen of this plant, or two 
 or three small ones placed to- 
 gether, look remarkably well ar- 
 ranged on the font, especially if 
 the latter is in a prominent posi- 
 tion. Both flowers and foliage 
 are of classic simplicity, and look 
 remarkably well along with statu- 
 ary or architectural details. For 
 harvest thanksgivings a small 
 sheaf of Wheat or Oats looks 
 well, and very suggestive laid on 
 the altar - table ; while tasteful 
 groups of Corn, Lilies, bright - 
 coloured autumn leaves, and 
 fresh green Fern fronds look well 
 on the pulpit or reading-desk. 
 If the pulpit, font, and pillars 
 are of white stone, they look 
 well draped with the Virginian 
 Creeper and Ivy, both of which should be allowed 
 to droop unrestrained in elegant festoons of bright 
 glowing crimson and green ; while clusters of Apples, 
 bouquets of Wheat and Oats, or bunches of Grapes, 
 may be introduced here and there with good effect. 
 The silvery or pale rosy plumes of the Pampas Grass 
 (Gymnerium argenteum) and Arundo conspicua, mixed 
 with branches of the Purple Beech, or the feathery 
 foliage of the Sumach, when tinged with crimson 
 in autumn, are very effective ; and stems of Arundo 
 donax or Japanese Maize may also be used for 
 variety. All these are bold and distinct, and look 
 well massed in a picturesque manner along with 
 the glowing scarlet flowers of the Scarborough Lily 
 
 Church Decorations. 
 
FLOWERS FOR CEMETERIES. 205 
 
 (Vallota), the Guernsey Lily (Nerine Sarniensis), 
 or the delicate pink flowers of the Belladonna 
 (Amaryllis). Group all your foliage and flowers as 
 naturally as possible, and do not attempt anything in 
 the way of unmeaning designs. Ladies, as a rule, do 
 these kinds of ornamentation better than any one else, 
 and seldom fail to make pleasing arrangements. It 
 is as well to be careful in the use of yellow flowers, 
 as many of these have a glaring or gaudy appear- 
 ance, not in keeping with the quiet rich softness of 
 colouring and peaceful harmony of arrangement 
 which should at all times prevail within a sacred 
 edifice. 
 
 FLOWERS FOR CEMETERIES. 
 
 As in all English-speaking lands the cemetery is to 
 some extent a garden, and often, as in America, a 
 noble and well-kept garden, a few words on some 
 plants suitable for it may not be without value. If 
 plants that look well all the year round are more 
 apropos for any one spot than another, that is in the 
 cemetery ; but notwithstanding this, the gaudy flowers 
 of the "bedding-out" garden are frequently planted 
 on graves. While far from suitable in tone, they 
 perish in winter, and frequently present a miserably 
 ragged aspect after being cut down by the autumnal 
 frosts and rains. Infinitely better are flowers of 
 spring, whether they disappear in winter or no ; and 
 better still those which look well all the year round 
 irrespective of their flowers. There are plenty of 
 plants eminently suited for this very purpose— cheap, 
 hardy, and easily obtained; and some of them of 
 such vivid green, even in the middle of winter, that 
 
206 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 they could not fail to please, in consequence of their 
 deep and vivid green. The mossy Saxifrages are 
 particularly remarkable for assuming their deepest 
 and finest verdure when winter commences its reign, 
 and almost every other plant begins to look ragged 
 and decaying, or has lost its leaves. These, then, 
 in nearly every instance, offer attractive objects for 
 planting on and near graves. It is useless to specify 
 individual kinds, for nearly all are equally good, and 
 differ mainly in their tone of green, and slightly in 
 size, one or two scarcely growing more than an inch, 
 and others attaining the dignity of three, four, or five 
 inches and even a foot high, when old. The native S. 
 hypnoides and its varieties are as good as any ; while, 
 if the silvery kinds are fancied — and very beautiful they 
 are, looking as well or better at Christmas than at 
 midsummer — Aizoon, pectinata, crustata, pyramidalis, 
 Hostii, intacta, and others closely related to them, 
 will be found to suit admirably. Those who do not 
 know these encrusted Saxifragas may be the more 
 favourably disposed to them when it is stated that 
 their tiny leaves are margined with a row of silvery 
 or white dots, and the leaves being very abundantly 
 and compactly produced, the plants present a singu- 
 larly neat appearance. A turf of these here and there 
 among the emerald green kinds would look very beau- 
 tiful. Even the Killarney Saxifrage (the London 
 Pride) and its allies would do, but scarcely so well as 
 the mossy and silvery sections, which generally pro- 
 duce white flowers in spring or early summer. All 
 the preparation necessary for these plants is a slight 
 lightening of the surface soil with sand where heavy, 
 and that is rarely necessary in ordinary soils. 
 
 Among these pretty Alpines, &c., I would drop 
 here and there a bulb or plant of some chaste and 
 
FLOWERS FOR CEMETERIES. 20/ 
 
 pretty spring flower, like the common or Crimean 
 Snowdrop, Hepatica alba, the white and delicately- 
 striped Crocuses, Bulbocodium vernum, Scilla bifolia 
 alba, Leucojum aestivum, vernum, and pulchellum, 
 Erythronium dens-canis album, and any other spring 
 flower that may be admired and obtainable. A few 
 Violets would be very suitable if the soil were one in 
 which they would flourish, which is not the case on 
 heavy clays. Finally, a few neat dwarf and hardy 
 shrubs — compact tiny evergreens — are excellent. In 
 this way nothing surpasses Erica carnea, which is a 
 perfect mass of charming flowers in spring, and hardy 
 and free in almost all soils. Some of the dwarf and 
 curious varieties of the common Ling, which are to be 
 had in some shrub nurseries, are also good ; while the 
 pretty little Partridge berry (Gaultheria procumbens), 
 with its bright red berries in winter and tiny close 
 growth, cannot fail to charm. In a peat soil a good 
 variety of dwarf Ericaceous plants might be tried. 
 On nearly all soils the Bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva 
 Ursi) trails its recumbent evergreen growth healthfully 
 along ; and where there is considerable space, some of 
 the dwarf hardy evergreen Rhododendrons, the bright- 
 berried Skimmias, and dwarf green tapering Conifers, 
 like the Retinpsporas, may be tried with great advan- 
 tage, with a few of the Ivies to train up rails, along 
 chains, &c. ; not to speak of other dwarf, evergreen, 
 and interesting shrubs which may be found by ex- 
 amining any good shrub nursery. 
 
 From the limited space generally around graves, 
 the planting of large or free-growing things is not to 
 be recommended. The general planting with the 
 larger trees of suitable character should be attended 
 to by the managers of the cemetery. There are a 
 great many Conifers and other trees and shrubs 
 
208 ORNAMENTAL. 
 
 which look very well in a young state, but which soon 
 attain large and unsuitable dimensions ; and these 
 should be discarded as unfit for the surface and imme- 
 diate surroundings of a grave. It is not sufficient to 
 see the aspect of the plant when young ; we should 
 inquire also as to its usual ultimate development. 
 
 Graves are generally surrounded by a kind of exter- 
 nal border for flowers with a narrow stone coping, the 
 centre being either left as a grassy mound, or covered 
 over with a stone. If any ironwork surrounds the 
 grave, no prettier climber can be used than the Aim^e 
 Vibert Rose ; its snowy-white flowers and perennial 
 dark-green leaves render it the best kind for grave 
 adornment. The Convolvulus, both purple and white, 
 are beautiful climbers. Ivy, of course, is always at hand. 
 Spring is especially rich in flowers for the grave. 
 Snowdrops may be planted in the grassy mound ; 
 but prettier still are the lovely blue flowers of Scilla 
 sibirica, either as an edging, or dotted promiscuously 
 on the turf 
 
 In the border. Crocuses of every colour may be 
 planted ; the single red and white Tulips are very 
 effective, and Hyacinths, red, white, and blue, or other 
 shades. Then there is the Narcissus, the Poet's and 
 double, and the pretty silver-paper-looking flowers of 
 St Bruno's Lily (Anthericum liliastrum) — all of which 
 are desiderata ; as are also the double Daisy, white 
 and red — Primroses, single and double — Heartsease, 
 and the Lily of the Valley. The new varieties of 
 Forget-me-not flower freely ; and we may also have 
 the snowy blossoms of the Saxifrage (S. granulata). 
 Nor should Anemones, both garden and the blue 
 wild (A. apennina), be omitted ; the latter is a most 
 desirable flower. Periwinkles, blue and white, carpet 
 the ground. Where there is room for small shrubs. 
 
FLOWERS FOR CEMETERIES. 
 
 209 
 
 the golden Arborvitae should be introduced. As 
 summer advances, the choice of flowers is more 
 varied. Viola cornuta flowers so freely, that each kind, 
 white or blue, is a great addition to grave -flowers. 
 Gentiana acaulis flowers well if not disturbed. The 
 Mule Pink is an abundant flowerer ; and the stately 
 White Lily may be raised in pots and sunk in the 
 border. 
 
 The tin troughs now made as crosses, circles, and' 
 in other forms, and filled with water, greatly extend 
 the decoration of graves by means of cut - flowers. 
 The Germans make wreaths of Ivy, which they hang 
 upon their tombs. In the cemeteries at Paris, large 
 sculptured marble vases are placed upon the grave- 
 slabs, filled with the choicest exotics. 
 
210 
 
 PART III.— DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Plants are not unfrequently grown for their beauty 
 or ornamental character alone, and little or no atten- 
 tion paid to their history, native habitat, or nomen- 
 clature. All or any of the plants herein mentioned 
 may be grown successfully by careful treatment, and 
 the assistance of the appliances of which we have 
 already spoken. Still they cannot but be more inter- 
 esting to us when we know their correct names — names 
 by which they are known to botanists or gardeners 
 throughout the civilised world. These Latin or Greek 
 names are not more difficult to learn than many words 
 in our own language; and a very little study will 
 enable any one to become proficient in this branch of 
 plant-lore. In most cases I have added the common 
 English names, as these often lead to the identifica- 
 tion of the plant after other means fail. The native 
 country is also added ; and it will be as well to remind 
 the amateur that the plants are found growing wild 
 in the localities mentioned. I have had good oppor- 
 tunities of learning what ordinary people as a rule 
 think on this subject, and there are but few who fully 
 comprehend the fact that every species is wild on some 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 211 
 
 particular portion of the earth's surface. Some plants 
 are extremely local in their distribution, the area they 
 cover being limited to a few square miles. Others, 
 again, as the common Plantain, or "White Man's 
 Foot," and Groundsel {Senecio vulgaris), are found in 
 nearly every portion of the globe. This and many 
 other common-weeds — the Thistle, for example — follow 
 everywhere in the footsteps of civilisation, and occa- 
 sionally prove a great nuisance to the settler or colo- 
 nist. Composite plants, of which the Dandelion 
 {Leontodon taraxicum), Cinerarias, Daisies, or Asters, 
 may be taken as common types, are generally widely 
 distributed, owing to their seeds being downy and 
 easily transported from place to place by the winds. 
 Other light seeds float down rivers and streams for 
 hundreds of miles, and are thus distributed far and 
 wide. 
 
 I should recommend the amateur to obtain the name 
 of every plant he cultivates, and to write it legibly on 
 a neat label of either wood or zinc. A well-named col- 
 lection of plants is always interesting ; and if the native 
 country of each plant be added, so much the better. 
 In the following pages I have given such short de- 
 scriptions, cultural details, and general information as 
 will be likely to interest the amateur cultivator. 
 
 PLANTS SUITABLE FOR ROOM, WINDOW, OR 
 BALCONY CULTURE. 
 
 Abobra VIRIDIFLORA {Scarlet-fruited A.). — A very 
 elegant half-hardy climber, nearlyallied to the common 
 Cucumber, and having dark-green glossy much-divided 
 leaves. Its flowers are white, not very showy, but are 
 succeeded by dark scarlet or crimson oval fruits, very 
 
212 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 ornamental in appearance. Seeds sown early and 
 planted out on a warm moist border after all danger 
 of spring frosts is past, will make effective plants the 
 
 first year ; while 
 their fleshy, tu- 
 berous roots 
 may be lifted 
 and stored in 
 sand for plant- 
 ing the follow- 
 ing season. Seed 
 or Tubers. Cen- 
 tral America. 
 
 Abutilon 
 STRIATUM {Or- 
 ange-Striped A^ 
 — This plant 
 grows well in an 
 ordinary win- 
 dow, orthey may 
 be planted outside during the warm summer months. 
 Abutilons are nearly allied to the common Mallows 
 of our waysides, and have a somewhat similar habit 
 of growth, but bear bright -green heart-shaped or 
 palmate foliage, and drooping bell-shaped flowers. 
 They strike freely from cuttings in a moderate heat, 
 and flower in a young state. One of the most beau- 
 tiful of all is a pure white-flowered variety of the 
 above known as Boule de Neige (Snowball), which 
 bears large flowers on long pendent stalks. This 
 flowers freely during winter, and its pearly flowers are 
 very valuable for bouquets and general decorative 
 purposes. New Granada. 
 
 Acacia armata {Prickly ^.) — This is a fine 
 spring-blooming plant, and well adapted for window 
 
 Abobra viridiflora. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS, 213 
 
 or sitting-room decorations. Its branches are spinose, 
 closely set with narrow deep-green glossy leaves, and 
 pale-yellow globular heads of hair-like flowers. It is 
 bushy in habit, and should be cut close in after flower- 
 ing, so as to keep it dwarf and compact. It will grow 
 outside in a sheltered position during summer, but 
 requires room culture during winter. Cuttings. New 
 Holland. 
 
 Acacia (albizzia) lophanta [Fem-kaved A) — 
 This plant is one of the finest of all evergreen foliage- 
 plants for indoor window-culture. In habit it combines 
 the elegance of the Palm with the fresh greenness of 
 the most beautiful Ferns, and is the same all the year 
 round. It is graceful in its growth, varying from 1 8 
 inches to 3 feet 
 in height, grows 
 well in any light 
 soil, and requires 
 a constant sup- 
 ply of water at 
 its roots. 
 
 It is easily 
 propagated from 
 seeds or cuttings, 
 and its refresh- 
 ing greenness 
 makes it quite 
 a favourite. 
 
 Acanthus 
 UOUJls{Smootk- 
 leaved A.) — This 
 fine-leaved har- 
 dy plant is an Acanthus latifolius. 
 
 effective object grown in a pot either for the balcony 
 or indoors. It has large glossy foliage, beautifully 
 
214 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 cut and very leathery. A plant Acanthus growing 
 accidentally around a broken column is said to have 
 furnished the idea from which the beautiful Corinthian 
 capital was designed. 
 
 A. LATIFOLIUS {Broad-leaved A^ is also an effective 
 plant (see fig. p. 213) propagated by division. Greece 
 and Italy. 
 
 ACROCLINIUM ROSEUM {Rosy Immortelle). — A very 
 pretty annual composite plant, easily raised from seed 
 
 sown in April. It 
 bears rosy everlast- 
 ing flowers, and 
 forms a choice win- 
 dow-plant if two 
 or three seedlings 
 are pricked off into 
 a 48 pot. Cham- 
 pion Bay, West 
 Australia. 
 
 Adiantum ca- 
 pillus veneris 
 ( True Maiden-hair). 
 — This is a British 
 species of Maiden- 
 hair, and though 
 hardy, grows best 
 in a Wardian case. It is one of the prettiest of all 
 the species, producing a tuft of fresh green fronds 
 several times during the year. Very useful Fern for 
 cutting. , Europe. 
 
 A. CUNEATUM {Wedge-leaved Maiden-hair).— Ih.^ 
 wedge-leaved Maiden-hair is the one generally used 
 in bouquets, for which its light graceful fronds are 
 well suited. It does well in a case. Several other 
 species of Adiantum grow vigorously in a Ward- 
 
 Acroclinium roseum. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 215 
 
 ian case, but these here alluded to are the best. 
 Brazil. 
 
 A. FORMOSUM (see fig.) is a strong-growing plant, 
 
 Adiantum formosum, 
 
 very useful for general decorative purposes or for 
 cutting. Formosa. 
 
 A. PEDATUM {Bird^s-foot Maiden-hair). — A charm- 
 ing N. American species of Maiden-hair, perfectly- 
 hardy in a moist sheltered rockery, but does best in a 
 Wardian case. It is a deciduous species, throwing up 
 its fresh green fronds every spring. All Adiantums 
 like humidity, and should have plenty of moisture 
 during the hot months of summer. All those named 
 in the list of Ferns may be grown under a glass shade 
 or in a small plant-case. 
 
 Adlumia PURPUREA {Purple- flowered A.) — This 
 
2l6 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 pretty hardy climber is rarely seen, although it makes 
 a very attractive plant either for the balcony or 
 
 window-box out- 
 side ; or it may 
 be grown in a 
 pot and trained 
 around three 
 sticks, as shown 
 in our engraving. 
 The plant is near- 
 ly related to 
 Dielytra and our 
 own native Fu- 
 marias,and grows 
 best in a warm, 
 moist situation. 
 Seeds sown in 
 
 Adlumia {cirrhosa) purpurea. spring. North 
 
 America. 
 
 Adonis vernalis {Spring -flowering A.) — A 
 dwarf and compact growing plant, bearing a profu- 
 sion of yellow star-shaped flowers in the spring. It 
 
 Adonis vernalis. 
 is perfectly hardy, and is propagated by division. 
 Europe. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 217 
 
 Agapanthus UMBELLATUS {Blue African Lily 
 or Love - flower).— T)x\% is a bulbous plant, having 
 strap-shaped foli- 
 age and terminal 
 clusters of bright 
 blue flowers on 
 stems 2 to 3 feet 
 high. It is an ex- 
 cellent plant for 
 balcony culture 
 in pots. Give it 
 an abundant sup- 
 ply of water dur- 
 ing the summer. 
 There is a varie- 
 gated variety and 
 also a green-leaved 
 one bearing white Agapanthus umbellatus. 
 
 flowers. Propagated by division. 
 
 This plant grows well planted on the margin of 
 a pond, or treated as a sub-aquatic along with the 
 Trumpet-lily (Richardia). S. Africa. 
 
 Agathea CCELESTIS (Carulean blue ^.) — Both 
 this and its variegated variety are dwarf composite 
 plants often used in flower-beds during the summer 
 months. Grown in pots or window-boxes they make 
 pretty little decorative plants, bearing a profusion of 
 delicate daisy-like flowers of a lovely sky-blue colour. 
 Cuttings. South Africa. 
 
 Agaves {American Aloes). — Succulent plants from 
 South America are admirably adapted for the per- 
 manent decoration of halls, corridors, and balconies 
 during summer. The smaller-growing species are also 
 well suited for window -culture. They only require 
 protection from frost, and most of them throw up 
 young plants or suckers from the base by which they 
 
2l8 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE, 
 
 are propagated. They are called "century plants" 
 from a mistaken notion that they only flower once 
 every hundred years. Keep them quite diy from 
 November to March. 
 
 A. Americana {Common American Aloe). — This is 
 the commonest species, having thick, glaucous, spinose 
 
 Variegated American Aloe. 
 
 leaves 2 to 6 feet in length. Young plants may be 
 grown in a window. 
 
 A. MEDIO PICTO {Striped American Aloe). — This is 
 a variety of the last with a band of yellow running 
 down the centre of the leaf 
 
 A. VARIEGATA {Variegated American Aloe). — An- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 219 
 
 Other variety having its leaves broadly striped with 
 golden yellow. It is a common and very ornamental 
 plant for rooms. 
 
 A. APPLANATA [Mealy American Aloe). — A dwarf 
 compact species, the largest leaves being only a foot 
 long, very thick at the base, and of the curious bluish 
 or milky green peculiar to a large number of these 
 plants. 
 
 A. Besseriana (Besser's American Aloe). — The 
 handsomest of all small-growing Agaves, having sub- 
 erect glaucous leaves about an inch Wide tipt with a, 
 a dark spine. It is a first-class window-plant, having 
 five or six tolerably distinct varieties, all of which are 
 worth growing. 
 
 A. riLlFERA [Thread-margined American Aloe). — 
 A compact, dense-growing, dark-green species, its 
 rigid leaves being more or less furnished with bronze 
 filaments along their margins. There are three or 
 four varieties all adapted for room culture during 
 winter, and balcony decoration during the summer 
 months. 
 
 Agave (Litt^a) GEMINIFLORA [Twin-flowered 
 American Aloe). — This isacommon plant of dwarfhabit, 
 the plant having pale-green leaves which look like a 
 tuft of rushes. It is an interesting plant, easily propa- 
 gated by seed. There are several varieties, some 
 smooth, others with filaments along the margins of 
 their smooth green foliage. All the Agaves may be 
 grown in rooms and windows if protected from frost 
 and kept dry during winter. Some are very beautiful, 
 and their culture is highly recommended. Most of 
 the species are Mexican. 
 
 Ageratum Mexicanum [Mexican A.). — A well- 
 known blue or mauve flowered bedding-plant, easily 
 propagated either from seed in the autumn or cuttings 
 
220 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 in the spring. With little attention it makes a good 
 pot-plant, and the flowers are both pleasing and dis- 
 tinct. Mexico. 
 
 AgrosTIS {Cloud-Grass). — A genus of pretty orna- 
 mental Grasses easily multiplied from seed sown from 
 
 March to May in small 
 pots of light earth. Pre- 
 pare half-a-dozen or more 
 pots and sprinkle a few 
 seeds over each. The 
 seeds soon germinate, 
 and if they come up so 
 as to crowd each other, 
 thin them out occasion- 
 ally. They form pretty 
 ornaments while grow- 
 ing, and the spikes keep 
 well when dried for win- 
 ter vases or bouquets. 
 Agrosiis nebulosa. ^ nebulosa, A. pulchella, 
 
 A. elegans, and several other species are worth grow- 
 ing, seldom attaining more than a foot or 1 5 inches in 
 height. S. America. 
 
 Akebia quinata {Five-leaved A.) — One of the 
 prettiest of half-hardy climbers, and one that grows 
 very freely planted in a box of rich moist earth in- 
 side the window. It bears dark-green foliage, and 
 clusters of deep purple flowers, the male and female 
 blossoms being borne on separate stalks. This plant 
 is a quick grower, and attains a height of twenty to 
 thirty feet in a cool airy conservatory. In warm 
 sheltered localities it stands outside without injury. 
 It is propagated by cuttings or layers. A native of 
 China, where it overruns hedges and bushes in a 
 similar manner to our common Woodbine or Honey- 
 suckle here at home. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 221 
 
 Aloes {Cape Aloes). — These are interesting succu- 
 lent plants, admirably adapted for culture in a win- 
 dow fully exposed to the sun. They are all natives 
 of Southern Africa ; one or two species producing 
 the " bitter aloes " of commerce. Propagated by cut- 
 tings, and occasionally from seed. 
 
 A. ARBORESCENS {Tree -like A.) — ^'A tall slen- 
 der stemmed species, having spreading glaucous 
 leaves, margined with green, and recurved at the 
 tips. 
 
 A. PLICATILIS {t^e Fan -leaved A.) — A very old 
 species, having, been cultivated at Hampton Court 
 centuries ago. Fine plants may be seen at Kew. Its 
 pale-glaucous fleshy leaves grow in two rows up each 
 side the cylindrical stem, giving it a plaited appear- 
 ance, hence its name. 
 
 Aloe frutescens {Shrubby A.) — This is one of 
 the most elegant of all the species, and, together with 
 its congener, A. variegata {Partridge-breasted A.), is 
 not uncommonly met with in cultivation as a window- 
 plant, for which purpose it is eminently fitted, as it 
 grows very freely in a moderate temperature, if pro- 
 tected from actual frost during winter. Our illustra- 
 tion (p. 222) was taken from a pretty little specimen 
 grown in the hot and dusty window of a London 
 coffee-house, where the facilities for plant-culture 
 are not of the best ; still it succeeds to perfection, in 
 spite of the most erratic treatment. The only way 
 an amateur is likely to kill Aloes, or indeed the gene- 
 rality of succulent plants, is by, giving them too 
 much water during the dark and cold winter months, 
 and so causing them to "damp off." Several other 
 small - growing Aloes make capital window - plants 
 grown in a compost of sandy loam and broken bricks, 
 or old lime-rubbish ; and if the pots are filled nearly 
 
222 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 half full of broken crocks for drainage, so much the 
 better. All the species come from the Cape of Good 
 Hope. 
 
 A. SOCCOTRINA {Soccotrine A.) — An interesting 
 species, affording "bitter aloes." It has pale-green 
 foliage, slightly furnished with white spines. It is 
 
 a very ornate species. 
 
 A. VARIEGATA {Par- 
 tridge - breasted A.) — A 
 common species, often 
 grown and flowered most 
 beautifully in cottage 
 windows. Its leaves are 
 arranged in three rows, 
 with an inclination to be 
 spiral, and are bright 
 green in colour, trans- 
 versely streaked with 
 creamy white and glau- 
 cous green. It flowers 
 freely every year, bear- 
 ing drooping tubular 
 flowers of a delicate rosy 
 colour on a slender spike 
 ^, ^ a foot to two feet in 
 
 Aloe frutescens. . 
 
 height. 
 Alonsoa INCISIFOLIA {Cut-leaved A') — An old 
 -but rather uncommon plant, well suited for window- 
 culture in pots. It is bushy in habit, and bears deep 
 orange or orange- scarlet flowers (each having a dark 
 eye) on terminal spikes. It flowers when about a 
 foot high, and lasts a long time in bloom. Propa- 
 gated easily from seeds and spring cuttings, and the 
 young plants will flower the same year. A. War- 
 scewiczii is another species well worth growing 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 223 
 
 (see fig.) They will grow freely and flower well 
 planted outside during summer. Peru. 
 
 Aloysia Citrio- 
 DORA {Citron A.) — '^-^ ' 
 This is commonly 
 known as the "Sweet 
 or Lemon scented Ver- 
 bena," and is much cul- 
 tivated in cottage win- 
 dows for its refreshing 
 citron-like odour. It 
 requires cutting down 
 in February, so as to 
 keep it bushy, and it 
 then breaks out freely, 
 and keeps fresh through 
 the summer. This and 
 " Musk " furnish two of 
 our best and most dis- 
 tinct vegetable odours, and should be grown in 
 every room window. Cuttings. Chili. 
 
 Alternanthera amabilis (Crimson-leaved a.) — 
 A dense-growing little foliage -plant, two or three 
 inches high, having foliage of a bright coppery hue. 
 A. amoena has leaves of a bright magenta-purple or 
 crimson colour, and is one of the best. There are 
 other species, all of which grow freely out of doors 
 during summer, and are useful for the margins of 
 balcony or window boxes, arranged along with dwarf- 
 growing succulents. They are easily propagated from 
 cuttings in the spring,and require alittlegentle bottom- 
 heat until they are rooted. Brazil. 
 
 Alyssum saxatile {Gold-dust Madwort). — A 
 dwarf, dense-growing, hardy herbaceous plant, with 
 glaucous leaves, and short spreading spikes of clear 
 
 Alonsoa Warszewiczii compacta. 
 
224 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 yellow flowers in the spring. It is very showy when 
 in flower, and comes from Transylvania. Propagate 
 by division. Its ally A. maritimum (Sweet Alys- 
 sum) is also a valuable plant for window-boxes. 
 
 Amaranthus caudatus (Love-lies-bleeding). — An 
 annual plant, well suited for the decoration of bal- 
 conies during summer and autumn. It grows about 
 two feet high, and has, drooping spikes of a deep 
 crimson-velvet tint Seed in spring. E. Indies. 
 
 A. MELANCHOLICUS RUBER (Ruby-coloured A.) — 
 This is another well-known plant well worth outdoor 
 culture. A. salicifolius is one of the most elegant, 
 having gracefully drooping wavy foliage of a bright 
 coppery crimson. All do best treated as half-hardy 
 annuals. 
 
 Amaryllis. — This is a much -admired genus of 
 bulbous plants, bearing large, wax-like, brilliantly- 
 coloured flowers. Some 
 can only be grown 
 satisfactorily in a hot 
 plant-stove, but those 
 named do well in pots 
 or boxes on the bal- 
 cony. 
 
 A. Belladonna 
 {Belladonna Lily). — A 
 lovely plant, flowering 
 in September and Oc- 
 tober, bearing several 
 white flowers suff"used 
 with delicate rosy lilac, 
 on the apex of a spike 
 a foot or more in height. 
 Bulbs showing flower 
 may be bought from any nurseryman in Septem- 
 
 AmarylHs Belladonna {Belladonna 
 Lily). 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST Of i'i.AiNTS. 225 
 
 ber, and flower directly after being potted. Cape of 
 Good Hope. 
 
 A. CRISPA ( Wavy-fetalledA.), (Nerine undulata). 
 — A lovely little species for flowering after the last 
 named. Two or three bulbs should be planted together 
 in a small pot. Its flowers are borne ten or twelve 
 together on a scape a foot or fifteen inches high. Its 
 blossoms are of a delicate rosy colour, the petals being 
 beautifully crisped, or undulate. Division. China. 
 
 Amaryllis formosissima {jfacobea Lily). 
 
 A. FORMOSISSIMA {JacobcBU Lily). — A very effective 
 and free-flowering plant, bearing large blood-coloured 
 flowers at the tip of a stout scape. In shape, the 
 flower reminds us of a gorgeous Orchid, its three 
 lower segments resembling a great lip. Grows well 
 in a sunny window. North America. 
 
 A. (nerine) SARNIENSIS [Guernsey Lily). — This 
 flowers at the same time as the Belladonna Lily, 
 and the bulbs may in most cases be purchased to- 
 
 p 
 
226 ■ DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 gether. It bears a terminal cluster of bright rosy- 
 scarlet flowers, which sparkle with crystalline bril- 
 liancy in the sun. It forms an effective autumn- 
 
 Amaryllis (Nerine) sarniensis (Guernsey Lily). 
 
 flowering window-plant, and is distinct. Keep the 
 bulbs moderately dry when at rest. Division. Japan. 
 
 A. LUTEA {Yellow A.) — An uncommon hardy 
 plant, with solitary yellow flowers, which are pro- 
 duced in company with the foliage in autumn, and 
 remind one of a gigantic Crocus. It has an erect 
 and compact habit of growth. Another species, the 
 Virgin's A. (A. Atamasco), may also be grown in pots 
 for variety. Division. 
 
 Amorphophallus Rivieri {Riviere's ^.)— This 
 is a comparatively new introduction, and is undoubt- 
 edly one of the very finest of all ornamental foliage 
 plants for room-culture. The stout stems are green, 
 spotted with white or pale rose, and are surmounted 
 by umbrella-shaped heads of deep green foliage two 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 227 
 
 feet across. It is half-hardy, growing vigorously in 
 a sheltered position in the open air from May to 
 October. Propagated by dividing its tubers. China. 
 
 Amorphophallus Rivieri. 
 
 AmpelopsIS HEDERACEA {Virginian Creeper). — 
 This plant is well known as being one of the most 
 ubiquitous and useful of all ornamental Vines. In 
 London it is perfectly at home amid dust and smoke, 
 draping windows and balconies, walls and trees, with 
 elegant wreaths of bright green foliage during the 
 summer months, while during September and October 
 it changes to the most vivid crimson tint imaginable. 
 It is rather bare and unattractive during winter ; but 
 by associating it along with Ivy and other evergreen 
 climbers, this drawback is easily overcome. It grows 
 
228 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 well in spite of all disadvantages. Planted down in 
 the area, it clambers up the sides of the house, wreathes 
 itself in graceful folds around the portico, or falls here 
 and there into the most elegant festoons of leafage. 
 It is an excellent plant for either pots or boxes, and 
 will grow in a few inches of any common soil. Planted 
 on each side of the window, it may be trained up a 
 wire trellis, or even a string, so as to soften off the 
 obtrusive angles of the masonry, and enable us to 
 catch a glimpse of Nature's loveliness as we sit in our 
 offices or apartments, calling to mind the green country 
 lanes and hedges amid all the dust, bustle, and smoke 
 of the great city. It grows rapidly, and is easily pro- 
 pagated by layers. Loudon called this "the most 
 vigorous of all creepers, growing freely from Warsaw 
 to Naples, in any soil or situation." N. America. 
 
 A. Veitciiii [Veitck's a.), (A. tricuspidata). — A 
 very beautiful creeping Vine, adapted either for pot, 
 vase, or basket culture in rooms, or planted outside 
 for training along the balcony or up walls, to which 
 it clings like Ivy. It has three-lobed foliage of a 
 bright green colour, changing to purplish-crimson 
 in the autumn. It is valuable as furnishing elegant 
 sprays or natural wreaths for cutting, and is useful 
 for all kinds of room or church decorations during 
 the harvest festivities. Multiplied by cuttings or 
 layers. Japan. 
 
 Anemones ( Wind Flowers). — These are included 
 in a genus of showy hardy herbaceous plants from 
 Italy and Levant, several making effective specimens 
 under pot-culture. They are fine plants for culture 
 in boxes on the balcony, or in the open border. 
 These, and all other hardy plants cultivated in pots 
 for window decoration, should be plunged (after 
 flowering) in a bed of sifted coal-ashes, or cocoa-nut 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 229 
 
 refuse. This keeps their roots cool, and in an equable 
 state as regards moisture. When they show flowers, 
 the pots can be washed, and then removed to the 
 drawing-room to expand their richly-tinted flowers. 
 The common Hepatica (A. hepatica) is one of the 
 most beautiful of all spring flowers, and may be used 
 in balcony - boxes with excellent effect along with 
 Arabis alpina and its variegated variety, Aubrietia 
 purpurea, or A. grseca, Saxifraga umbrosa (London 
 Pride), S. Crustacea, a small - growing species, the 
 leaves of which look as if set with little pearls, and 
 many others. Any of these may be used for edgings, 
 and the centres filled in with Snowdrops, Crocus, 
 Tulips, Hyacinths, Winter Aconites, Scillas (Squills), 
 Bellis aucubzefolia (Red Daisy), any or all the nume- 
 rous beautiful varieties of the common hardy Prim- 
 rose, white Lilac, red, crimson, and purple ; and last, 
 but not least,, scatter a few seeds of Myosotis dissiti- 
 flora over the boxes in the autumn, or prick in a few 
 plants, and your window-boxes will be a treat, both 
 to yourself and neighbours, during the warm sunny 
 days of spring. Anemone-roots may be bought from 
 the florists any time during the autumn, and should 
 be planted forthwith. The roots of .some Anemones 
 will grow after being stored in a dry place for two 
 or three years, still they are considerably weakened 
 thereby; The popular name "Wind Flowers," also 
 belongs to the genus Zephranthus. Anemone japo- 
 nica, A. japonica alba, A. hortensis fulgens, and A. 
 vitifoha, make fine specimens, plunged in pots ready 
 for removal to the window or balcony in autumn, when 
 their flowers expand. All hardy plants should be kept 
 cool, and have abundance of fresh air whilst flowering, 
 after which they should be again plunged outside. 
 Anemone japonica, and its varieties, is one of our best 
 
230 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 autumn - flowering hardy herbaceous plants, and its 
 large pure white flowers are very useful in a cut state. 
 When taken up out of the ground and potted, it is 
 also very serviceable in the conservatory or window- 
 garden. For this purpose it wants a good soaking of 
 water, and should be put in the shade for a few days 
 until thoroughly established. 
 
 Anthericum liliastrum (St Bruno's Lily). — A 
 highly interesting plant, with bundled fleshy roots, 
 
 not unlike the cornmon 
 white Lily (Lilium can- 
 didum), but very much 
 smaller. It grows free- 
 ly in the open border or 
 in pots plunged outside. 
 Its flowers are borne on 
 stalks, and are of a deli- 
 cate paper white. This is 
 sometimes called A. Cz- 
 ackia. It is propagated 
 by dividing well-estab- 
 lished clumps in the au- 
 tumn months. The flow- 
 ers are very useful for 
 either bouquets or din- 
 Antheric%m liliastrum. ner - table decorations, 
 
 and it is a plant every one should grow. Alps. 
 
 Antirrhinum majus {Common Snapdragon). — 
 A well-known annual or perennial plant, and one of 
 the very best for naturalising on dry banks, ruins, or 
 old mud and plaster walls. Easily propagated from 
 spring or autumn sown seeds. There is an immense 
 variety of colours, scarcely two seedlings coming ex- 
 actly alike. Seeds sown early in the spring (March), 
 and treated like hardy annuals, flower very freely 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 231 
 
 the same year. They are useful for window-boxes 
 and balconies, and well worth growing. Europe. 
 
 Apios tuberosa (Tuberous-rooted A.)— A very 
 elegant twining 
 plant, having finely- 
 divided foliage and 
 oblong clusters of 
 pale pea-shaped 
 flowers. Our illus- 
 tration shows its 
 habit ; and as it is 
 very easily grown, 
 and far from in- 
 'attractive, it de- 
 serves cultivation. 
 Seeds and roots. 
 Amferica. 
 
 Aponageton dis- 
 TACHYON {Branched 
 A.) — A very beau- 
 tiful and perfectly hardy aquatic from the Cape of 
 Good Hope. It will grow in a stone trough or 
 even a ditch, and is easily grown in the window 
 planted in an inverted bell-glass or small aquarium. 
 It should be planted in good loam. It flowers nearly 
 all the year round, but especially in the spring 
 months. When healthy its fresh green oblong leaves 
 float on the surface of the water, being borne on long 
 stalks, which vary in length according to the depth at 
 which its roots are planted. Its elegant fork-like 
 spikes are scaly and of ivory whiteness, with small 
 black flowers at their base. A. acuminata, A. minor, 
 and A. monostachyon vary slightly from the above, 
 but may all be grown as beautiful and interesting 
 aquatics. Propagated from seed. 
 
 Apios tuberosa. 
 
232 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 ARABIS ALPINA {Spring A.) — This is a common, 
 woolly-leaved, dense-growing plant, hardy on rock- 
 work or dry banks, where it bears thick masses of pure 
 white flowers in the spring. It is most useful for edging, 
 boxes and balcony-gardens. There are several varie- 
 gated forms of this-=-all beautiful. Division. Europe. 
 
 Aralia. — This genus contains several fine-foliaged 
 plants, nearly or quite hardy in sheltered positions. 
 
 Rice-paper Plant {Aralia papyrifera). 
 
 All are adapted for room-culture in winter and bal- 
 conies in summer. They are all increased by suckers 
 or root-cuttings. 
 
 A. crassifolia {Thick-leaved A)— An erect-grow- 
 ing species, having alternate leathery leaves a foot 
 long, and of a deep olive-green colour. The leaves 
 are slightly lobed along the edges, and the midrib 
 is dull orange, while the leaves are brown beneath. 
 New Zealand. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 233 
 
 A. LEPTOPHYLLA [Slender-leaved ^.)— One of the 
 most effective species, with a slender habit of growth, 
 bearing six or seven leaflets of a dark-green colour 
 and drooping habit. It is useful for rooms, halls, or 
 for dinner-table decoration. Japan. 
 
 A. PAPYRIFERA {Rice-paper A^) — One of the noblest 
 of the group, and interesting, as furnishing the pith 
 from which the Chinese manufacture their delicate 
 rice-paper. It is very effective for rooms or balconies 
 
 Japanese Aralia {A. Sieioldi). 
 
 during summer when grown in pots. It is hardy in 
 warm situations. Formosa and China. 
 
 A. SlEBOLDi {Glossy-leaved A>,, (A. japonica).— A 
 noble decorative species, having a slender stem and a 
 crown of glossy foliage on long stalks. It is one of 
 the best for room and balcony culture. 
 
 A. SlEBOLDI VARIEGATA. — Similar to the last, but 
 its glossy leaves are blotched with creamy white. 
 
 A. SlEBOLDI AUREA is stronger than the last, its 
 
?34 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 foliage being blotched and margined with golden- 
 yellow instead of white. J^ipan. 
 
 A. TRIFOLIATA {Three-pointed A') — An erect-grow- 
 ing species, with thick leathery three-lobed leaves of 
 a dark-green colour above, lighter beneath. In a 
 small state it is very useful for window-culture or for 
 table-decoration. New Zealand. 
 
 Ardisia crenulata ( Wavy-margined A) — A very 
 beautiful little evergreen shrub, bearing a profuse 
 quantity of bright scarlet berries, from which the 
 plant is very easily propagated. The young plants 
 should be potted into small pots and grown near the 
 light, or they are apt to run up rather lanky, and lose 
 their bottom leaves. Give them a dose of clear man- 
 ure-water once a-week, and keep them clean. Even 
 when not in fruit this is one of the most beautiful of 
 glossy-leaved shrubs, its leaves beiiag very elegantly 
 waved or crenate along their margins. W. Indies. 
 
 Aristolochia SIPHO {Siphon A., or Dutchman's 
 Pipe).— This is well adapted for planting in front of 
 the house along with Ivy and Virginian Creeper, with 
 both of which it contrasts well. Its leaves are large, 
 6 to 8 inches broad, heart-shaped, and of a bright 
 green colour. Its flowers, which are borne from the 
 old wood in the spring, are green streaked with brown, 
 being bent like a siphon, hence the specific name. 
 Planted as above recommended it is an effective 
 object trained over the porch or balcony. Mulready 
 thought this one of the noblest of hardy climbing plants, 
 and a sketch of its picturesque foliage may be seen 
 among his drawings in the South Kensington Museum, 
 along with original designs for planting the grounds 
 adjoining his residence with fine trees. Layers. N. 
 America. 
 
 Arundo CONSPICUA {Silvery-plumed ^4.)— This is 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 235 
 
 rather a tall -growing but extremely elegant Reed, 
 bearing silvery plumes on leafy stems 4 to 6 feet high. 
 In pots it does admirably, forming a noble balcony 
 ornament, and it is perfectly at home in the open 
 border. Its spikes are produced in August. Divi- 
 sion. Europe. 
 
 A. DONAX {Erect A.) — Another noble plant having 
 elegant leafy stems 4 to 10 feet high. Like the last, 
 it grows well treated as a pot-plant if supplied with 
 abundance of water at the root. It is as graceful as 
 a tropical Bamboo or Palm, and is very effective 
 grouped on the lawn or in the shrubbery borders. 
 Division. Europe. 
 
 A. DONAX VERSICOLOR {Variegated A) — A 
 beautiful dwarf-growing variety of the last, having its 
 foliage streaked with creamy white. It seldom grows 
 above 3 feet high, but is highly ornamental either in 
 pots or borders. The two latter plants may be pro- 
 pagated to any extent by cutting fully - developed 
 stems and throwing them into a tank of water ex- 
 posed to the sun. 
 In a week or two 
 they emit young 
 plants from every 
 joint. Europe. 
 
 ASCLEPIAS CU- 
 RASSIVICA. — An 
 old plant often 
 met with in the 
 cottage windows 
 of some country 
 
 ^ ■ Asdepias tuberosa. 
 
 erect in habit, 
 
 having lance-shaped leaves and terminal clusters of 
 
 bright orange-yellow flowers. Easily propagated by 
 
236 DESCRIPTIVE, 
 
 seeds or cuttings, and flowers freely in sunny posi- 
 tions. A. tuberosa is a hardy species bearing masses 
 of orange-coloured flowers in autumn. S. America. 
 
 Asparagus decumbens {Creeping A.) — This is 
 one of the most elegant of all foliage-plants for cut- 
 ting, and it grows well in a cool temperature, produc- 
 ing long sprays of fresh green feathery foliage, than 
 which nothing is more useful for the margins of choice 
 bouquets or wreaths. It does best in a moderately 
 rich, sandy compost ; it also likes partiail shade, and 
 a good supply of moisture at the root. There are 
 several other scandent species from the Cape, as A. 
 scandens and A. consanguineus, all being useful for 
 their feathery spray. They can either be grown in 
 pots or planted out in a Wardian case, where they 
 grow remarkably well, and if they exceed their bounds 
 they can be cut in freely with the knife. All the 
 above are now grown by our decorative florists, who 
 find them invaluable. The common esculent species 
 of gardens (A. oificinalis) produces erect stems clothed 
 with elegant spray, and we have seen it forced in pots 
 in a warm vinery in the winter, where it produced 
 fresh growths quite equal to the species mentioned 
 above, and these come in very handy for decorative 
 purposes months before that in the open ground. All 
 the species are readily propagated by division, and 
 they should be grown wherever flowers and delicate 
 foliage are required for cutting, especially where Ferns 
 are scarce and consequently valuable. 
 
 ASPIDESTRA ELATIOR VARIEGATA {Broad-leaved 
 A.) — A very effective plant, with leaves a foot or more 
 long, of a deep green colour striped with creamy white. 
 Makes a noble decorative plant for window or room 
 culture. Division. Japan. 
 
 ASPLENIUM FLABELLIFORME {Fan-leaved A.)— 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST GF PLANTS. 237 
 
 One of the most elegant of all Ferns for pot or case 
 culture. Its gracefully drooping fronds are a foot 
 long, bearing little plants at their apices. The divi- 
 sions are cuneate or wedge-shaped, and of a bright 
 green colour. It is one of the most useful Ferns we 
 have for hanging-baskets, and deserves to be more 
 generally cultivated. Many other species of Asple- 
 nium are excellently adapted for open window culture ; 
 A. marinum, A. macrophyllum, A. laceratum, A. 
 nidus-avis, and A. fontanum, grow well either in the 
 window or Wardian case (see List). Division or spores. 
 New Holland. 
 
 Aster (^Star-flowers). — This is a large group of 
 composite plants, partly annualls, as the common China 
 Asters or " Oysters," and partly perennials, the latter 
 herbaceous section being represented by the " Michael- 
 mas Daisies," many of which are beautiful autumnal- 
 flowering plants, blooming from September to Novem- 
 ber in the open borders or shrubbery margins. The 
 annual or China Asters should be sown in pots in 
 March, and in the open ground a little later. They 
 make charming plants for pot -culture. Those brought 
 to Covent Garden in such beautiful condition are 
 grown in beds in the open air, and are taken up and 
 potted for sale. It is a good plan to raise seedlings 
 in boxes, and to prick them outside in May when they 
 are two or three inches high. There are now many 
 varieties and colours. The Dwarf Chrysanthemum 
 Flowered, Peony Flowered, and Dwarf Pyramidal, 
 are the best for pot -culture. These, associated as 
 they often are in London balconies with the gracefully 
 drooping spray of the Virginian Creeper, have a fine 
 effect, and their beauty is by no means short-lasted. 
 
 ASTILBE— J^^ HOTTEIA. 
 
 Athyrium filix-FCEMINA {Lady-Fern). — One of 
 
238 DESCRIPTIVE, 
 
 the most delicately beautiful of all British Ferns, and 
 quite hardy. It grows vigorously in pots if plunged 
 in coal-ashes or tan (spent tanner's bark) in a shady 
 position ; and forms a valuable ornament for the draw- 
 ing-room, window, or balcony, being equal to any of 
 the tropical kinds for delicate beauty. It should be 
 syringed once or twice a-day when growing, all Ferns 
 delighting in shade and moisture. Its fronds keep 
 well when cut, and are lovely when dried for winter 
 decoration. It is found in most English woods. 
 
 Atriplex hortensis rubra {Red-leaved A.) — 
 This is a plant with leaves of a port-wine colour, and 
 nearly naturalised^in some gardens ; useful for balconies, 
 but must be pinched occasionally to keep it in bounds. 
 Seeds. Tartary. 
 
 AUCUBA JAPONICA {Yellow-bbtched ^.) — One of 
 the best of all shrubs for town gardens, and it always 
 looks fresh and healthy as a balcony-plant if watered 
 freely, especially during hot weather, and syringed 
 now and then to clear it of soot and dust. There are 
 male and female plants, and if both are obtained and 
 grown together, the female plant often bears bright 
 scarlet berries among its golden-blotched foliage, and 
 is then very ornamental. There are several species, 
 natives of China, Japan, and Northern India. Cuttings, 
 layers, or berries. 
 
 Auricula— j^^ Primula. 
 
 Azalea Indica {Indian ^.) — Of this beautiful 
 winter and spring decorative plant we have an 
 endless number of very showy varieties, and with 
 careful management they may be successfully grown 
 for window - decoration. After the plants have 
 flowered, say about May, they should be cleaned 
 and set out of doors, when all danger from severe 
 frosts is past. Plunge the pots up to the rim in 
 coal-ashes, in a sheltered but sunny position, where 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 239 
 
 their growth will become' thoroughly ripened, or they 
 will not bloom well the following spring. Never allow 
 them to want for water, and syringe them morning 
 and evening during hot, dry weather. Remove them 
 into the house before the October frosts commence, 
 and they will flower abundantly in the spring. Azalea 
 flowers are very beautiful for cutting, and may be 
 used either for bouquets or dinner-table decorations. 
 Some of the semi-double varieties, as A. Narcissiae- 
 flora, and others, are very handy for button-hole 
 flowers. Azalea flowers are rather fugitive, and will 
 be found to keep best if arranged in damp sand or 
 moss in flat glass vases or dishes. If used for bou- 
 quets, drop a little isinglass or gum down the centre of 
 the flowers before they are used. India. 
 
 A. Sinensis bears its yellow flowers in the spring, 
 and is quite hardy. China. 
 
 Babiana — see Cape Bulbs. 
 
 BambusA Fortuni VARIEGATA {Fortunes Striped 
 Bamboo). — This is one of the prettiest of the dwarf- 
 growing Bamboos, and is sufficiently hardy for win- 
 dow-culture in pots, or for the flower-garden during 
 the summer months. It is a foot high, with green 
 leaves striped profusely with creamy white. Division. 
 China. 
 
 B. Metake {Japanese B) — A perfectly hardy 
 species, of a fresh and pleasing green colour, well 
 adapted either for pots or the open border. 
 
 B. AUREA ( Yellow-stemmed B) — This is a graceful 
 and perfectly hardy species from China, growing three 
 to six feet high. It has yellow stems and green foli- 
 age, the latter differing from that of B. virido glauces- 
 cens in being less glaucous beneath. 
 
 B. FALCATA {Sword-leaved B.) — This is a large- 
 growing plant, in warm sheltered positions on the 
 lawn sometimes attaining twenty feet in height. 
 
240 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Grown in pots it can be kept within bounds, and is a 
 useful and distinct plant for balcony gardens. 
 
 Beaucarnea tuberculata {Swollen - stemmed 
 B.) — This plant, and one or two other species, are 
 well adapted for room or table decoration when in 
 a small state. They have erect stems, much swollen 
 at the base, and elegantly recurved strap-shaped foli- 
 age. B. longifolia, B. recurvata (one of the best), 
 and B. gracilis, may be obtained at the nurseries, and 
 will succeed well in any moderately warm apartment 
 from which frost is excluded during winter. Offsets. 
 Mexico. 
 Begonia. — This large group of flowering and foli- 
 age plants now con- 
 tains several species 
 well adapted for win- 
 dow-culture, and some 
 are specially valuable 
 for supplying winter 
 flowers (see Calendar 
 for December). Some 
 of the new garden 
 hybrids of the B. boli- 
 viensis type are nearly 
 hardy, and grow and 
 flower well all the 
 summer in the open 
 border. It is for pot- 
 culture, however, that 
 they are of most ser- 
 vice. B. Weltoniensis, 
 B. Saundersoni, B. 
 Daviesii, and B. insignis, are the best of the pink 
 flowering kinds. The new hybrids bear scarlet or 
 vermilion-coloured flowers. B. Dregei is a dwarf and 
 
 Hybrid Begonia. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 241 
 
 compact plant, with fresh green foliage, and a profu- 
 sion of snowy-white flowers. B. manicata, a large- 
 leaved kind, bears a profusion of pale rosy flowers 
 on tall branching spikes ; and B. lucida has large 
 rosy flowers, quite as beautiful as those of many 
 Orchids, and they are borne on long stalks well 
 adapted for vases and other decorations. Nearly 
 all the Begonias are beautiful, and sparkle like hoar- 
 frost when seen under artificial light. 
 
 They like a rich light compost of half fibrous 
 loam and half leaf - mould, with a little sand and 
 well - rotted manure added. Cuttings strike very 
 freely, and the tuberous -rooted section are easily 
 propagated by division before they make their 
 growth. Begonias are easily recognised by their 
 oblique, heart-shaped foliage. Some of the orna- 
 mental - leaved species, as B. Rex, B. grandis, 
 B. Pearcei, B. Imperi- 
 alis, and others, grow 
 well in a Wardian case. 
 They are nearly all S. 
 
 American. 
 
 Begonia Veitchii 
 
 ( Veitch'^B)— This hand- 
 some Peruvian species 
 
 is perfectly hardy, and 
 
 may be grown in pots 
 
 for window - decoration. 
 
 Its vivid orange-scarlet 
 
 or vermilion - coloured 
 
 flowers are freely pro- 
 
 d.uced in the autumn. In 
 
 habit the plant reminds 
 
 one of Saxifraga ciliata, being of a fresh, glossy 
 
 green. Numerous hybrids raised between this species 
 
 Q 
 
 Begonia Veitchii. 
 
242 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 and B. boliviensis, are likely to become fashionable 
 window-plants. Many of them flower profusely out 
 of doors in an ordinary border during summer. 
 
 Bellis perennis {Daisy). — This is the botanical 
 name of one of the commonest of all our native wild 
 flowers. Some of its varieties have beautiful double 
 white or crimson flowers, produced very abundantly 
 in the spring. These are invaluable for window-boxes 
 or borders, and grow as freely as weeds. One variety 
 (B. perennis aucubsefolia), has its fresh green leaves 
 most beautifully netted and marbled with gold. For 
 spring gardening these plants are very useful along 
 with Arabis, Scillas, Hyacinths, and other spring 
 flowers (see Anemone). Daisies are easily propa- 
 gated by division after flowering. 
 
 Berberis Darwinii {Darwin's B.) — One of the 
 most effective of spring-flowering shrubs, having 
 glossy foliage and bearing bright orange or yellow 
 flowers. It makes a fine balcony-plant in the spring, 
 along with Azalea sinensis. Rhododendrons, and 
 Aucubas. It can be grown either as a tub or pot 
 plant, and likes a warm moist soil. Chili. Several 
 other species of Berberis may be grown. Berberi- 
 dopsis corallina is a fine plant for a wall. Berberis 
 Bealii is one of the most effective as a foliage-plant. 
 
 Blechnum (spicant) BOREALE {Spiked B.) — One 
 of our commonest Ferns, and very useful for pot- 
 culture, its fresh green fronds growing in a rosulate 
 manner. It is a valuable plant for shady windows, 
 keeping its fronds all the winter. There are several 
 varieties, all well worth growing. It is very useful 
 for cutting, and well-developed fronds last a long time 
 in either sand or water. Britain. 
 
 BOUSSINGAULTIA BASELLOIDES {Sweet-scented B) 
 -^This is an elegant, quick-growing climber, nearly 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 243 
 
 hardy in sheltered positions, and bearing spikes of 
 greenish-white flowers, not conspicuous for beauty, 
 although highly fragrant. It has large heart-shaped 
 foliage, and does best in a rich, moist, sandy soil. It 
 may be grown in a pot, or planted out in the window- 
 
 jBoussingauliia baselloides. 
 
 boxes or on the balcony, where it forms an attractive 
 climber, or may be grown as a trailing-plant for 
 baskets. Propagated by division of its fleshy roots. 
 Native of the Andes. 
 
 BOUVARDIA JASMINIFLORA {Jasmine-flowered B.) 
 — All the Bouvardias are slender-growing shrubs, 
 that may be grown outside in sheltered localities dur- 
 ing the summer months. Cuttings strike freely in a 
 close case in the spring, and should be potted in sandy 
 earth (loam) and either leaf-mould or well-decomposed 
 
244 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 manure. They should be placed on a shelf near the 
 light until May, when they may be plunged out of 
 doors along with Salvia splendens, Solanum capsicas- 
 trum, S. pseudo capsicum. Chrysanthemums, and 
 other winter-flowering plants. Here they may re- 
 main all the summer, and they will flower freely dur- 
 ing the winter. Select a sheltered place for them on 
 a warm sunny border. Bouvardias are grown by the 
 thousand for winter flowers, and are very useful for 
 bouquets, button-holes, and vase-decoration. All S. 
 American. 
 
 Briza maxima {Greater Quaking-grass). — This 
 is a large-growing species, allied to the common 
 Quaking-grass of our meadows. It is very orna- 
 
 Briza 'maxima. 
 
 mental as a balcony-plant when growing, and the cut 
 spikes are useful for grouping along with winter 
 flowers. This and B. media are raised from seeds 
 sown in the spring. All European. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 245 
 
 Brodi^A COCCINEA {Fire - cracker). — K hardy 
 Californian species, bearing umbels of drooping, 
 crimson, tubular flowers, 
 tipt with green. This 
 species, together with B. 
 congesta and B. grandi- 
 flora, may be grown very 
 successfully in pots for 
 indoor decoration, if 
 treated as previously re- 
 commended for Amaryl- 
 lis and other hardy bulbs. 
 Division. 
 
 Bryophyllum pro- 
 LIFERUM {Proliferous 
 B.) — This and two other 
 species are well worth 
 growing as curiosities, 
 since they will defy any 
 attempt to kill them by neglectful treatment. Our 
 present species is remarkable for its tenacity of life. 
 If its fleshy leaves are plucked and laid on damp 
 soil or sand, they emit young plants from the notches 
 or serratures around their margins. They will grow 
 freely in a window. Mauritius. 
 
 Buxus SEMPERVIRENS {Common Box). — A well- 
 known hardy evergreen shrub, very useful for window- 
 boxes when in a small state. It is always fresh and 
 green, and cut sprays come in useful for church- 
 decorations. Britain. 
 
 Calceolaria hybrida {Slipper-flowers). — Calceo- 
 larias are useful window-plants, both the herbaceous 
 and shrubby kinds being grown very successfully in 
 cottage windows, where they flower freely during the 
 summer months. The hybrid varieties are very large 
 
 Brodiaa coccinea. 
 
246 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 and beautifully coloured. Calceolarias are propagated 
 from either seed or cuttings, the latter being the 
 preferable method for amateurs. The shrubby sec- 
 tion are much used as yellow bedding-plants, and 
 are useful for balcony-decoration during summer. 
 The herbaceous hybrids grow best in the window or 
 in a cool pit or frame outside. One or two species 
 are hardy annuals. S. America. 
 
 Calystegia dahurica (Dahurian C.) — A very 
 conspicuous and elegant twining plant, bearing rosy- 
 purple flowers. It is valuable for training over bal- 
 conies, window-trellises, rock-work, railings, porches, 
 or anywhere where fresh foliage and flowers are re- 
 quired. Divisions of the root. Dahuria. 
 
 C. PUBESCENS fl. pi. ( Woolly-leaved (7.)— An elegant 
 climbing variety, bearing numerous double flowers of 
 a faint rosy-lilac colour. It may be used like the 
 last, or trained up strings or wires anywhere on a 
 screen. China and Japan. 
 
 C. SEPIUM. — This is the common species of the 
 hedgerows, bearing large pure white flowers in toler- 
 able abundance. It grows quickly, and is invaluable 
 for trellis-work or for covering arbours and screens. 
 
 Campanula pyramidalis {Pyramidal Bell-flower). 
 — Many species of the lovely Bell-flowers are useful 
 for pot-culture, some of the best — if we except our 
 present species — being the white-flowered C. Vidallii, 
 C. fragilis, C. hederacea, and one or two other kinds 
 which do well in baskets, but the latter requires 
 plenty of moisture around its roots. C. pyramidalis 
 is often grown very successfully in cottage windows 
 under the homely name of "Chimney Campanula." 
 It probably derived this appellation from the old 
 custom of growing it by the side of the fireplace 
 during the summer months, a system still practised 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 247 
 
 by the Dutch, who have a great liking for this noble 
 old plant. Like its allies it is easily raised by 
 division or from seed. Grown in pots it forms a tall 
 and graceful ornament, blooming for several weeks in 
 succession. It requires a rich compost of leaf-mould 
 or rotten manure and loam, and must have an 
 abundant supply of water at the root. The flowers 
 are an inch across, of a pale-blue colour, while one 
 variety bears blossoms of snowy whiteness. Every 
 window or balcony gardener should grow this plant. 
 It is perfectly hardy in an ordinary border. Europe. 
 Canna Indica {Indian Sko^. — This is a noble 
 group of fine foliage- 
 plants, containing 
 many beautiful var- 
 ieties which are use- 
 ful for pot-culture 
 indoors, or for foli- 
 age effects in the 
 open air during 
 the summer months. 
 Outside their foliage 
 dies off every au- 
 tumn, and the roots 
 will have to be taken 
 up and stored in a 
 cellar or shed, from 
 which frost is ex- 
 cluded, just the 
 same as Dahlias, 
 Dioscorea Batatas 
 the finer GladioH. 
 
 Canna Warszewiczii. 
 
 (Sweet Potato or Yam), and 
 They ought not to get dust- 
 dry, and keep best in a cool moist cellar, where 
 the temperature fluctuates but little. Packed in 
 damp sand they keep fresh . and plump, and start 
 
248 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 away better in the spring. They are propagated 
 either by cutting the tubers into " sets," like Potatoes, 
 or from seeds. These last are the size of peas, of a 
 dark colour, and nearly as hard as bullets ; hence the 
 popular name given above. Before sowing, soak for 
 an hour or two in water heated to 100° or 120°; this 
 softens their coats, and causes them to germinate 
 much quicker, just as the same treatment acts on 
 imported seeds of Acacias. Most of the species are 
 rapid growers in rich soil, and a dose or two of 
 liquid manure improves them. For balconies during 
 summer, or apartments during the winter, they are 
 attractive ; their fine Musa {Plantain) like foliage 
 being distinct from most other decorative plants. If 
 the roots are mulched heavily, they may be allowed 
 to remain in the beds or borders through the winter. 
 What the Maranta is in the stove, the Canna is in the 
 flower-garden outside. India and S. America. 
 
 Select List of Cannas, 
 
 Ann EI, large glaucous foliage, free 
 flower. 
 
 BICOLOS, fine foliage, green 
 
 and chocolate. 
 
 DISCOLOR, stem purplish. 
 
 orange flowers. 
 
 FULGIDA, foliage marked 
 
 like a zebra. 
 
 MARGINATA, foliage brown- 
 ish purple, with darker margin. 
 
 Glauca, light or glaucous silver 
 foliage, scarlet and yellow flower. 
 
 Metallica, magnificent foliage, of 
 a deep reddish bronze. 
 
 Nigricans, foliage large, of a deep 
 
 brownish red. 
 RuERiCAULis, foliage green, with 
 
 violet marbling. 
 Rubra nerva, fine violet -ribbed 
 
 foliage. 
 PERFECTA, green and purple 
 
 leaves. 
 SBPERBissiMA, purple leaves, 
 
 orange-red flowers. 
 Van Houttei, bright orange -red 
 
 flowers. 
 ViOLACEA SUPEEBA, foliage of a 
 
 brownish violet. 
 Warszewiczii, of dwarfish growth. 
 
 Cape Bulbs.— Ixia, Sparaxis, Tritonia, and Babi- 
 anas, are not very generally cultivated in gardens as 
 yet ; but we hope to see them better appreciated when 
 they are better known. A dry airy atmosphere is 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 CAPE BULBS. 
 
 249 
 
 Ixia longiflora. 
 
 BaUana atrocyanea. 
 
 Tritonia trocata. 
 
 Ixia viridiflora. 
 
250 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 natural to them ; hence they are well adapted for 
 window-culture. I speak from experience in this 
 matter, having grown them very successfully under 
 ordinary window treatment. They should be potted 
 in a compost of sandy loam and leaf-mould on a well- 
 drained bottom ; for although they like a full supply of 
 moisture at their roots when growing, a stagnant con- 
 dition is fatal. They grow well in the open air on warm 
 sandy soils and in sheltered localities. Some varieties 
 are marvellous in the delicacy and peculiarity of their 
 colouring, and a good collection of their flower-spikes 
 will hold their own position as lovely flowers against 
 all comers, Orchids not excepted. Most people fail to 
 grow this class of bulbs chiefly from inattention to 
 their simple requirements after flowering. As a rule 
 they are ruthlessly pitched under the nearest stage 
 directly their flowers are gone, and there they re- 
 main, often subjected to drip and other bad usage, 
 under which conditions the foliage decays prematurely 
 
 instead of fulfilling its func- 
 tions and stuffing the bulbs 
 or tubers full of elaborated 
 sap, from which the next 
 year's flowers are formed. 
 The flowering of most 
 plants depends on their 
 having been well treated 
 the season previous, and 
 this is specially true of 
 Cape bulbs. (See fig.) 
 Cockscomb. CeLOSIA PYRAMIDALIS. 
 
 — Treated as tender annuals, and raised from seed 
 in a close frame about March, these make fine bushy 
 plants for autumn decoration. There are both 
 crimson, rose, and silvery varieties. The CoCKS- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 2SI 
 
 COMB is a crested or monstrous form of Celosia, and 
 is sometimes grown in windows. India. 
 
 Centaurea Cyanus [Blue Cprn-flower). — The 
 lovely blue flowers of this hardy border- plant are 
 largely used for bouquets in Covent Garden. Raised 
 from seed in March, and planted either in boxes or 
 borders in May, it forms compact bushy plants, and 
 flowers freely. Europe. 
 
 C. (ragusina) CANDIDISSIMA. — This silvery-leaved 
 plant and several other varieties are much used for 
 bedding purposes in the London parks and private 
 gardens. It is a striking pot-plant for grouping with 
 Coleus or other dark-leaved plants during summer, or 
 for a dry sunny window in winter. It is perfectly 
 hardy, and may be propagated from seeds or autumn 
 cuttings in the open border. Candia. 
 
 Cephalotus FOLLICULARIS (Australian Pitcher- 
 plant). — This is an interesting httle plant, requiring 
 very little heat ; but to 
 grow it well, it must '^ 
 
 be grown either under 
 a bell-glass or in a 
 Wardian case. It re- 
 quires a fresh open 
 compost of peat and 
 fibrous loam mixed 
 with sphagnum moss ; 
 and if the latter is 
 fresh and green, just 
 as gathered from the 
 
 bogs or marshes, so much the better. The plant is 
 only an inch or two high, having pretty little green 
 pitchers blotched with purple. It should be grown in 
 a small pot and plunged in the soil of the case, where 
 it will get plenty of moisture. 
 
 Cephalotus follicularis. 
 
252 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Cerastium Biebersteinii {Large-leaved C.)— This 
 differs from the well-known silvery-leaved C. tomen- 
 tosum in having bolder leaves. Both are excellent 
 edging plants for balconies or for window-boxes during 
 the spring months. Division. Caucasus. 
 
 Cereus flagelliformis ( Whipthong or Creeping 
 C.) — This makes a nice plant for suspending in a 
 window fully exposed to the sun. Its slender stems 
 are armed with fine spines at all points, and droop 
 gracefully two or three feet below the pot or basket 
 in which it is grown. When thoroughly established, it 
 bears a profusion of delicate blossoms of a bright lilac- 
 purple hue. It should be potted in sandy loam, and 
 the pot must be well drained ; water freely when 
 growing, but keep it quite dry from November to the 
 end of February. A fine plant may be seen in a 
 cottage window at Turnham Green, which flowers 
 regularly every spring, when it is well worth seeing. 
 Cuttings of the stems five or six inches long strike 
 root freely in sand. Peru. Several other species of 
 Cereus grow well in windows. 
 
 Cham^dora elegans {Elegant C) — A slender- 
 growing Palm, with elegantly cut leaves, of a glossy 
 green colour. The stems are marked with rings or 
 joints like a ratan-cane. The fruiting branches of 
 several Chamaedoras are of a bright coral-red colour, 
 and contrast very forcibly with the leaves. All the 
 Chamsedoras are neat in habit, and are largely used, 
 especially in Northern Germany, for the decoration 
 of apartments. Mexico. 
 
 C. Ernest August: {Swallow-tailed C.) — This 
 is a robust species, with leaves cut like a swallow's 
 tail, and elegantly plaited. Their foliage should be 
 sponged every week, so as to keep them in a fresh 
 and healthy state. S, America. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 253 
 
 Cham^PUCE DICANTHA {Herring-bone Thistle^ — 
 This plant and its ally C. cassabonse may often be 
 seen in gardens, where they are valuable as edgings 
 to flower-beds, or for grouping with succulents. The 
 leaves are a foot long, and armed formidably with 
 ivory-coloured spines. Both may be grown in pots 
 for the balcony during summer. C, cassabonse has 
 rufous-coloured spines, and is rather smaller than its 
 congener. Seed. 
 
 Cham^rops humilis {Small Fan-palm). — A very 
 effective Fan-palm, well adapted, like the Agaves, for 
 the winter decoration of 
 apartnients ; and dur- 
 ing the summer months 
 they may be set out 
 in the sun to recu- 
 perate their energies for 
 the ensuing winter. A 
 fine pair of this species 
 have endured several 
 severe winters in Messrs 
 Backhouse and Sons' 
 nurseries at York, and 
 the only protection 
 they receive is a mat 
 thrown over them when bright sunshine succeeds a 
 sharp frost. Both this and C. fortunei {C. sinensis) 
 grow well in little tubs or in lai'ge pots, and form 
 striking ornaments during the winter. They should 
 be firmly potted in a compost of loam and sand, with 
 a little leaf-mould intermixed. They require copious 
 supplies of moisture, more especially during summer. 
 C. humilis is interesting as the only European Palm, 
 it being naturalised \fi Spain and Italy. 
 
 Cheiranthus Cheiri {Common Wallflower). — 
 
 Chammrofs humilis. 
 
254 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 This is well known, and often found wild, or natu- 
 ralised on old ruins. At Nottingham Castle the face 
 of the red sandstone bluff is rendered quite gay during 
 the early spring months by the bright yellow blossoms 
 of this plant. There are many varieties both single 
 and double flowered. The single ones come freely 
 from seed, and the double ones are multiplied by cut- 
 tings. Seedlings raised this summer will flower either 
 in pots or open borders the following spring. Southern 
 Europe. 
 
 Chrysanthemum Indicum {Chinese Chrysanthe- 
 mums). — These may be struck from cuttings in the 
 spring, and if potted and grown on outside during the 
 summer, will make fine plants for autumn and winter 
 flowering. They are perfectly hardy, and bloom well 
 outside under a sunny wall. The small -flowered or 
 Pompone section are suitable for flowering in the 
 flower-beds during November, and for this purpose 
 should be grown in small pots — say 32's — and plunged 
 in the beds after the bedding-plants are removed. It 
 is one of the most beautiful of all winter flowers, and 
 may be grown amid the London dust and smoke. 
 Chrysanthemums like a rich soil, being gross feeders ; 
 and to prevent their becoming " leggy," or naked at 
 the bottom, pinch them at least once, and do not let 
 them get dry. After the flower -buds make their 
 appearance, give them occasional doses of manure- 
 water. To make the latter, take fresh cow-dung and 
 pour water over it in an old tub, adding a few hand- 
 fuls of Peruvian guano. This makes an excellent 
 stimulant for all soft-wooded plants— as Fuchsias, 
 Geraniums, Hyacinths, and Dracaenas — under pot- 
 culture. Much improvement has recently been made 
 in the culture of this fine hardy autumn flower ; and 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 255 
 
 the introduction of the long-petailed, weird-looking 
 Japanese forms has added variety to the group. One 
 or two of these should be grown. The following are 
 all good and well-tried varieties; but there are at 
 least 150 other showy kinds in cultivation. 
 
 Large-flowering Chrysanthemums. — Chevalier Dom- 
 age, Golden Beverley, and Jardin des Plantes (yellow) ; 
 Prince Albert, Progne, Julia Lagravere, Dr Sharp, 
 Alma (crimson) ; Christine, Alfred Salter, Lord Derby, 
 Golden Mrs Rundle, Eugenie, Hermine Delval (rose) ; 
 Virgin Queen, Vesta, Defiance, Elaine, and Beverley 
 (white) ; Pelagia, Etna (fiery red). 
 
 Incurved Chrysanthemums. — Aim6e Feriere, Antp- 
 nelli, Beverley, Duchess of Buckingham, White Globe, 
 Golden Eagle, Hereward, John Salter, Lady Harding, 
 Mrs Brunlees^ Prince Alfred, Princess of Wales 
 (Davis's), Sir Stafford Carey, Trilby, White Queen of 
 England. 
 
 Japanese Varieties. — Aurantium, yellow ; Comet, 
 orange and chestnut ; The Daimio, rosy lilac ; Wizard, 
 red maroon ; Tarantula, yellow ; The Tycoon, red and 
 orange ; Yellow Dragon ; James Salter, rosy lilac. 
 
 Pompones. — Aigle d'Or, General Canrobert, Durn- 
 flet, Florence, Madame Eugenie Domage, Lizzie 
 Holmes, Miss Talfourd, Miss Dix, Rose Trevenna, 
 White Trevenna. 
 
 Cineraria CRUENTA. — This is a well-known spring- 
 flowering plant, bearing starlike white, blue, or purple 
 flowers, and easily raised from seeds sown in March or 
 April. Plants for indoor decoration can be grown in 
 a cool frame outside during summer, and should be 
 syringed once or twice daily to keep down thrip and 
 green-fly. Pot the seedlings into a rich compost of turfy 
 loam and leaf-mould in equal quantities, with the addi- 
 
2S6 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 tion of a little peat and sand. Give plenty of water 
 when growing, and a little liquid manure once a-week. 
 
 As to treatment of 
 seeds, see p. 86. All 
 the numerous flor- 
 ists' varieties have 
 been originated by- 
 crossing C. malvse- 
 folia, C. lanata, and 
 some other species. 
 Messrs Wheeler 
 have kindly lent us 
 this figure. 
 
 Cineraria ma- 
 RITIMA {Silvery- 
 leaved C) — A 
 hardy foliage-plant 
 having sil very-lobed 
 leaves. It is useful 
 
 Cineraria hybrida. 
 
 in place of Centaureas on the balcony. Easily 
 raised by seeds or cuttings, like the last-named 
 plants. Southern Europe. 
 
 CiSSUS ANTARCTICA {Kangaroo Vifie). — This 
 makes a fine plant for training along balconies oi: 
 over window-trellises during the summer months, its 
 foliage being of a pleasing fresh green colour, and 
 the plant grows freely. It is multiplied either by 
 cuttings or layers, and is one of the freshest and 
 brightest of summer climbers, but requires protection 
 from frost. Australia. 
 
 Clematis. — The species and varieties of this 
 genus of hardy plants may be classed amongst the 
 best of the flowering -plants we have for covering 
 porches, balconies, or verandahs, with fresh green 
 foliage and delicately-tinted flowers during the sum- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 257 
 
 mer months. The new hybrid varieties, such as C. 
 lanuginosa, C. Jackmannii, C. John Gould Veitch, C. 
 Fortunei, and others, 
 are specially valuable 
 for pot - culture, pro- 
 ducing an abundant 
 supply of flowers. 
 They grow well in a 
 moderately rich moist 
 compost of fibrous 
 loam, leaf- mould, or 
 well-decayed manure, 
 and sand ; and a cool 
 airy position during 
 summer suits them 
 best. The summer 
 and autumn flowering 
 varieties should be 
 
 , , , . Clematis Fortunei. 
 
 pruned back to four 
 
 or five plump eyes during the early spring months, as 
 they flower from the current season's growth. These 
 beautiful plants have a great future before them, not 
 only for pot-culture and conservatory decoration, but 
 also for walls, beds, borders, rock-work, pillars, old 
 ruins, and other suitable positions out of doors. Pro- 
 pagated by root-grafting. Europe ; Japan. 
 
 Clianthus Dampieri {Dampier's Glory Pea). — 
 This silvery-leaved plant bears deep crimson blos- 
 soms, five or six together, on a short stalk. They 
 are shaped like parrots' bills, and each has a promi- 
 nent blackish -purple boss. The plant should be 
 raised from seed in the spring (April), and planted in 
 sand, brickdust, and a very httle loam. Select a hot, 
 dry, and sunny position under a south wall, and keep 
 the plant as dry as possible. Australia. 
 
 R 
 
2S8 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 COB^A SCANDENS {Trailing C.) — This is one of 
 the best of all climbers for window-culture. Planted 
 in pots it can be trained up wires, and bears its great 
 purple flowers freely throughout the summer. I have 
 frequently seen it growing and blooming freely along 
 balconies during the summer months. Cuttings or 
 layers. Mexico. 
 
 Clianthus Damfieri. 
 
 Cobtna scandens. 
 
 COLCHICUMS {Autumn Meadow-Saffron). — These 
 hardy bulbs are often erroneously called " Autumn 
 Crocuses," but they are more properly named as 
 above. The flowers are very freely produced during 
 September and October, being of a delicate pink or 
 rosy lilac colour, borne in clusters three to six inches 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLAlfTS. 259 
 
 high. C. autumnale, C. Byzantinum, C. variegatum 
 and their varieties, may be planted in small pots— say 
 48's — using a compost of sandy loam. After they 
 are potted, plunge the pots in a moist border, and 
 they will require no further attention until they 
 bloom, when the pots can be lifted and washed before 
 removal to the drawing-room for decorative purposes. 
 They are propagated by dividing the bulbs, and from 
 seed. Europe. 
 
 CoLEUS Verschaffeltii ( Verschaffelfs C.)— This 
 plant is well known, and has nettle-like leaves of a 
 velvety crimson colour. It grows freely planted out 
 in beds, or boxes during summer, and may be kept 
 any height by pinching off the ends of the shoots. 
 Cuttings root freely in sand at any time of the year, 
 but best in spring and summer. E. Indies. 
 
 Convallaria MAJALIS {Lily of the Valley). — This 
 is a native plant, and extremely useful for pot- 
 culture. It flowers freely in the open border, but the 
 best clumps for early flowering are imported every 
 autumn from Holland and Belgium. Its pearly white 
 flowers are most deliciously perfumed, and it is one 
 of the most lovely of all spring flowers, either for 
 button-holes, bouquets, dinner-table decorations, ladies' 
 hair, or for grouping in the drawing-room vase. Pro- 
 pagated by dividing the roots. Britain, in woods. 
 
 Convolvulus major (Morning Glory). — A well- 
 known annual climbing-plant, opening its lovely purple 
 trumpet-shaped flowers with the first dawn, and closing 
 as soon as the sun kisses the pearly dewdrops from 
 their leaves. A few seeds sown in the window-box 
 will furnish you with a graceful climber for training 
 outside your window or over trellises and rock-work 
 throughout the summer months. Grown side by side 
 with the common " Canary Creeper " it is an effective 
 
26o 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 object, and their flowers contrast well. In addition 
 to the old purple-flowered species there are crimson, 
 white, blue, lilac, and striped varieties, all beautiful. 
 It is also called Ipomoea purpurea. S. America. 
 
 C. MAURITANICUS {Drooping C.) — For hanging- 
 baskets or brackets this is a useful and extremely- 
 graceful blue-flowered plant, and easily raised from 
 cuttings or seed. It will also grow and flower freely 
 in a warm sandy border, but is unrivalled for indoor, 
 window, or balcony culture. Mauritius. 
 
 C. TRICOLOR {Three-coloured C.) — A dwarf spread- 
 ing annual bearing lovely blue or bluish-purple flowers 
 elegantly streaked with white. There are many 
 varieties in every mixed packet of seeds, and for 
 hanging-baskets, window-boxes, or borders they are 
 remarkably efi"ective. S. Europe. 
 
 In addition to the above, several Ipomoeas are useful 
 climbers, and maybe treated 
 as tender annuals. I. coc- 
 cinea, I. hederacea, and I. 
 quamoclit (Cypress Vine) are 
 beautiful, and often grown 
 as window ornaments in 
 France and America. I. 
 bona-nox is a pretty half- 
 hardy plant, growing 7 or 
 8 feet high, and bearing 
 large violet or white sweet- 
 scented flowers. Our 
 native species, C sepium, 
 bearing lovely large snowy 
 white flowers, grows well 
 scrambling up a fence ; and 
 C. arvensis (Combine) is a pretty little pink-blossomed 
 plaht well worth a place in the window-box outside. 
 
 Ipoin(sa bona-7iox. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 261 
 
 CORCHORUS Japonicus {Japanese C. or Kerria). — 
 This makes an effective wall-plant, and is often met 
 with in old gardens. It bears golden-yellow rosette- 
 like flowers. The old single variety is more beautiful 
 than the double form. Suckers or layers. Japan. 
 
 CORONILLA GLAUCA {Glaucous C.) — This is an 
 excellent winter and spring blooming plant, and grows 
 well in any ordinary apartment. It bears a rich pro- 
 fusion of its golden-yellow flowers, and is compact 
 and bushy in habit. After flowering, cut the plant 
 in closely and place it in a sheltered position outside 
 to make its summer growth, taking care to water 
 and syringe it regularly as recommended for Azaleas. 
 Cuttings strike during the spring in a close case. 
 Europe. 
 
 CORYPHA AUSTRALIS {Fan-Palm). — One of the finest 
 of all fan-leaved Palms for indoor decoration during 
 the dull portion of the 
 year. It grows freely 
 in an ordinary apart- 
 ment, or it can be set 
 outside on the balcony 
 during the summer 
 months. Pot them in 
 loam and sand, and 
 give plenty of water 
 during summer. N. 
 Holland. 
 
 COTONEASTER MI- 
 CROPHYLLA {Small- 
 leaved C.) — This is a 
 hardy climbing-plant, well adapted for training up 
 bare walls or over trellises. It has small dark 
 glossy leaves, and bears a profuse quantity of small 
 white flowers in the spring, these being followed by 
 
 Cory f ha australis. 
 
262 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 solitary scarlet berries, which render it very orna- 
 mental during autumn and winter. If required for 
 the balcony it can be grown in a pot. Layers. N. 
 India (Nepaul). 
 
 Crassula (kalosanthes)coccinea {Scarlet C.) 
 -^This is one of the finest of all plants for window or 
 balcony culture during summer, and bears gorgeous 
 masses of scarlet or bright rosy vermilion-coloured 
 flowers, most deliciously scented. The plant grows 
 freely plunged in a sunny border during the hot 
 summer months, but should be removed inside when 
 flowering and during the winter months. Its bright 
 green leaves are scarcely an inch long, arranged in 
 four rows up the erect stems. Cuttings strike freely 
 in sand. Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 C. LACTEA {Milk-flowered C) — This is a half-hardy 
 succulent of rigid habit, having thick fleshy dotted 
 leaves and fine branched spikes of milk-white flowers. 
 The latter are produced during the autumn or winter 
 months in abundance. It is easily multiplied by 
 cuttings in pots of sand, and is valuable as one of the 
 very best of all winter-flowering plants for windows 
 and apartments. Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Crocus LUTEUS {Common Yellow Crocus). — This 
 is well known, and flowers either in pots or borders 
 early in the spring. Division of the bulbs. Turkey. 
 
 C. NUDIFLORUS. — One of the most beautiful 
 autumn-flowering species, naturalised in the Notting- 
 ham meadows. Flowers of a bright purple, the tube 
 5 to 10 inches long. Grows freely by the margins of 
 woodland walks or in ordinary borders. Division. 
 Britain. 
 
 C. SPECIOSUS.— The largest and best of the autum- 
 nal-flowering kinds, of a bluish-violet colour striped 
 with purple inside. This and the common Saffron 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 263 
 
 Crocus (C. sativus), are very beautiful naturalised on 
 such portions of the lawn or pleasure - grounds as are 
 not mown. Division. Hungary. 
 
 C. VERNUS (^Spring Crocus). — One of the most beau- 
 tiful of all our native bulbs. It may be seen by the 
 acre in the Nottingham meadows early in the year ; 
 indeed whole fields are suffused with the delicate 
 bluish-lilac tint of the spring Crocus. Britain. We 
 have a great variety of species in cultivation, and both 
 the spring and autumnal kinds may be grown for 
 room, window, or balcony decoration as previously 
 recommended for Colchicums (see page 258). 
 
 Cyperus ALTERNIFOLIUS [Umbrella Sedge). — A 
 very graceful plant, grow- 
 ing freely either in a case 
 or in the window if kept 
 moist, and having slender 
 grass-like leaves arranged 
 like the ribs of an um- 
 brella on stalks 12 to 30 
 inches or more in height. 
 There is a variegated form 
 of the same plant, and 
 both are very useful for 
 cutting and vase or table 
 decorations. It is readily 
 propagated by division. 
 Madagascar. 
 
 Cytisus racemosus 
 {L ong- spiked C.) — This 
 plant grows well in a win- ^-^■^^'"^ aiternifolius. 
 
 dow treated like Coronilla, and bears its spikes of 
 golden-yellow pea-shaped flowers very freely in the 
 spring. It is nicely scented, and flowers profusely in 
 a small state. Cuttings. Canaries. 
 
264 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Cucumis dipsaceus. 
 
 Lagenaria vulgaris. 
 
 Cucumis flexttosus. 
 
 Momordica bahamina. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 265 
 
 CUCURBITA Pepo {Gourds, Pumpkins, or Squashes). 
 — This and its varieties belong to the ornamental 
 Gourds or Squashes, many of which are pleasing 
 ornaments for either outdoor or balcony culture dur- 
 ing summer. The plants are graceful in habit, and 
 may either be trained up bare walls, over rock-work, 
 rockeries, or on rustic trellises of all descriptions. 
 Many species of Cucumis, Momordica, and Lagenaria 
 (Bottle-Gourds), may readily be cultivated on warm 
 soils in sheltered localities, and their quaintly-formed 
 or brightly-painted fruits are very useful for winter 
 decorations. They are gross feeders, and like a well- 
 manured compost. The smaller-growing kinds may 
 be cultivated in pots or boxes on the balcony, and 
 allowed to droop down in front, where their fruits 
 seldom fail to come to maturity, and attract a deal 
 of attention. Seeds sown in pots in March make nice 
 plants for placing outside in May. South America 
 and the East. (See figs.) 
 
 CUPHEA PLATYCENTRA {Scarlet -flowered C.) -^ 
 This is a very old and pretty window-plant, with 
 bright, ovate leaves, and orange-scarlet or vermilion- 
 coloured and black flowers, tubular in shape, and ^ 
 to ^ of an inch in length. Nicely grown plants 
 flower very freely, and are very ornamental. Mexico. 
 Other species, as C. eminens, C. lanceolata, and the 
 yellow and red flowered C. strigulosa, are all dwarf 
 free-flowering plants, useful for window or balcony 
 gardening. Propagate in spring from cuttings. 
 
 Cyclamen Persicum {Sowbread). — One of the 
 sweetest and prettiest of all window-flowers, and may 
 be raised from seeds in the autumn. They require 
 very careful management, however, and the amateur 
 had better obtain flowering corms at once. They 
 like a rich compost of turfy loam }4, leaf-mould ^, 
 
266 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 with a sprinkling of coarse sand added. Do not 
 cover the " crowns '' or tops of the tubers, but leave 
 them nearly level with the rim of the pot. They 
 require plenty of water, and liquid manure twice a- 
 week when flowering. Protect this species (of which 
 there are many beautiful varieties) from frost during 
 winter. For the accompanying figure of C. Persicum, 
 I am indebted to Messrs Sutton and Sons, of Read- 
 ing. C. Europeum, C. hederaefolium, and one or 
 
 Cyclamen Fersicum. 
 
 Cyclamen Atkinsi. 
 
 two others, are hardy, but do best in pots plunged in 
 a bed of ashes or soil. The flowers of all are very 
 lasting, and admirably adapted for bouquets ; and 
 when not in flower, the prettily-marked leaves are 
 attractive. C. Atkinsi, a hardy variety, is dwarf and 
 pretty. 
 
 Daphne Indica {Indian Spurge Laurel).— This 
 plant may be bought at the nurseries, and is generally 
 grafted on the " Mezereum " or " Spurge Laurel " 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 267 
 
 Stock. It is of rather a straggling habit, having light- 
 green leathery leaves, and terminal clusters of pale 
 rose or white flowers, most deliciously scented. China. 
 Darlingtonia Californica {Calif ornian Pitcher- 
 plant). — The peculiar appearance of this plant ren- 
 ders it very interesting, and it can be grown success- 
 fully in a Wardian case, or 
 even under a close shade. In 
 its native country the plant 
 is found growing from one to 1^'^"^']^ 
 
 two feet high, among the ^''''' .ipTA*''"** 
 fresh green moss and coarse ,¥ {^.'^SSk-Vi ' , 
 
 herbage in bogs and swampy *^- - ■*"*'- 
 
 places. Like theSarracenias, 
 its pitchers serve as fly-traps, 
 their lower half being set with 
 long hairs . inclined down- 
 wards, which allow flies or 
 other insects to descend, but 
 eff"ectually prevent their re- 
 turn. Some of the old 
 pitchers are found half full 
 
 c J c i • , • . Darliniitonia Californica. 
 
 of defunct msects, just as are 
 
 those of Nepenthes and the North American 
 Pitcher-plants. It should be grown in a compost of 
 peat, living sphagnum moss, and coarse well-washed 
 grit or sand, and luxuriates best in a constantly 
 humid atmosphere and a moderate temperature — 
 conditions easily supplied in a close case. It occa- 
 sionally produces nodding flowers of a pale -green 
 colour striped with purple, but its delicately-netted 
 pitchers always render it an attractive plant. It 
 should be well drained, and must be liberally supplied 
 with tepid water when growing, and must never be 
 allowed to get thoroughly dry. 
 
268 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 DiANTHUS BARBATUS {Sweet -William). — One of 
 the most beautiful and best known of all hardy 
 flowers. There are many varieties, and a beautiful 
 selection may be obtained from a single packet of 
 seed sown either in pots, boxes, or in the open border. 
 Young plants raised from this year's seed bloom dur- 
 ing the succeeding summer. They are well adapted 
 for balcony-culture in pots. Europe. 
 
 DiELYTRA SPECTABILIS {Beautiful D.) — This is a 
 hardy herbaceous plant, well adapted for pot-culture, 
 
 forming nice little 
 bushy plants, with 
 its delicate pink 
 heart-shaped flowers 
 arranged along slen- 
 der nodding spikes. 
 It grows freely in 
 an ordinary herba- 
 ceous border, flower- 
 ing in May. It is 
 largely imported in 
 the autumn from 
 Belgium, and that 
 is the best time to 
 obtain a few of its 
 brown seakale - like 
 rhyzomes, which 
 sandy loam and leaf- 
 
 Dielytra spectabilis. 
 
 should be potted at once in 
 mould. After potting, plunge the pots as recom- 
 mended for Hyacinths, and they can be removed 
 indoors to flower in succession. _ It is a very beautiful 
 plant, and requires plenty of water at the root. Divi- 
 sion. China. 
 
 Digitalis purpurea {Common Foxglove). — There 
 are now very many beautiful white and spotted varie- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 269 
 
 ties of this native plant. When naturalised by the 
 margins of woodland walks, or in moist shady por- 
 tions of the garden, they are unrivalled for stately 
 beauty. They are easily multiplied from seeds sown in 
 the open ground, either in autumn or spring. Britain. 
 DlON^A MUSCIPULA {American F/y-trap).— This 
 N. American plant is one of the most interesting of 
 all vegetable curi- 
 osities, each edge 
 of the leaf being 
 furnished with 
 slender comb-like 
 teeth. The upper 
 surface of the leaf 
 is set with about 
 six slenderwhitish 
 hairs, which are 
 extremely sensi- 
 tive, the lateral 
 lobes of the leaf 
 closing together 
 like a book on 
 their being touch- 
 ed ; and if a fly, 
 ant, or other small 
 insect is the offend- 
 ing party, it is 
 generally entrapped and held firmly by the leaf and 
 its marginal hairs, until the insect is motionless or 
 dead. When all sensation is gone, or the little pris- 
 oner is dead, the leaf gradually unfolds, and spreads 
 itself ready for other unwary victims. The plant 
 likes a cool but- very moist temperature, and should 
 be grown in a close case or under a bell-glass, and 
 the pot-top covered with living sphagnum moss. 
 
 Dioncea musciptda. 
 
270 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Drac^NA {Dragon-trees). — These plants are 
 graceful in habit, and many of the species are much 
 more hardy than is generally supposed. Nearly all 
 will grow rapidly if planted in a sheltered position out 
 of doors during the summer months. They are valu- 
 able for the decoration of apartments. 
 
 Window- Box furnished with Dracanas. 
 
 A correspondent of ' Hearth and Home ' writes as 
 follows of these plants as window - ornaments : " A 
 few years ago Dracaenas were only known in collec- 
 tions of choice greenhouse plants, and, like many 
 other things, it was formerly supposed that they could 
 only be grown by skilful gardeners. They have been 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 27 1 
 
 found to endure, however, and even flourish, under 
 very ordinary treatment. The increased taste for, 
 and general use of, hanging-baskets and window- 
 boxes, have made plants formerly rare in such posi- 
 tions now quite common. Dracaenas, as will be seen 
 by our illustration, have a fine appearance in window- 
 boxes, and they also look well in Wardian cases. 
 Dracaenas, as is doubtless well known, belong to the 
 Lily family, but they do not have showy flowers, and 
 are cultivated solely for their foliage. Many of them 
 have red-coloured foliage, and others present different 
 shades of green. There is considerable diff"erence in 
 the width and thickness of the leaves, and all have a 
 pleasing tropical habit. They endure the dry air of 
 our dwellings with impunity. The tall specimen in 
 the centre of the box is Dracaena indivisa ; the two 
 smaller ones are, D. terminalis, with reddish foliage, 
 and D. australis, with broad green leaves. Some 
 Tradescantia repens is put in as a covering to the 
 soil, so as to give the box a pleasing appearance." 
 
 D. (Cordyline) AUSTRALIS {Half-hardy Dragon- 
 tree). — This is often treated as a tender stove-plant, 
 but is quite hardy in Devon and Surrey. It has 
 straight, slender, nerved foliage, and makes a nice 
 pot-plant for the window when small. Cuttings of 
 the stem strike freely in bottom-heat. New Zealand. 
 
 D. CANN^FOLiA {Canna - leaveo). — This strong- 
 growing green-leaved species may be grown outside 
 on the balcony during summer. Australia. 
 
 D. CONGESTA [Dense-growing D.) — This is a slender- 
 growing and very graceful species, forming nice little 
 decorative plants when a foot or eighteen inches high. 
 It has recurved foliage of a green colour, and makes a 
 nice addition to the window. Australia. 
 
 D. RUBRA {R£d D.) — This is similar to the last in 
 
J72 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 habit ; but the leaves are more of a bronze colour, and 
 not so robust. This and the last named are used by 
 the thousand for the decoration of apartments and 
 window-boxes by the London florists. Australia. 
 
 D. HELICONIFOLIA. — I find this fine species thrives 
 well in my sitting-room, a plant having been grow- 
 ing in it for the past eighteen months. The leaves 
 are fine in form, and of a pleasing green when kept 
 free from dust by occasional sponging. Australia. 
 
 D. TERMINALIS (Showy D.) — This is commonly 
 supposed to be a stove-plant, but succeeds well out 
 of doors in warm sheltered situations during the 
 summer months. In France, it is grown by the thou- 
 sand, along with its more beautiful variety D. termin- 
 alis stricta ; and they are used for apartments and 
 window-boxes just as freely as we use Geraniums and 
 Fuchsias here at home. It is very showy, having 
 bronzy foliage, streaked with rosy carmine. India. 
 Drosera ROTUNDIFOLIA {Round-leaved or common 
 
 Sundew). — This is one 
 of the prettiest of all 
 our native bog-plants, 
 and is tolerably plen- 
 tiful, especially in the 
 north of England, and 
 in Scotland. It is 
 tolerably abundant on 
 Hampstead Heath, and 
 is generally found in 
 spongy or marshy local- 
 ities, growing amongst 
 moss and herbage. 
 Its leaves, as shown in our engraving, are rounded 
 at their apices, or spoon-shaped, being of a pleas.* 
 ing light -green tint, set with glistening crimson, 
 
 Drosera rotundifolia. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 273 
 
 glandular hairs. The latter appendages are cov- 
 ered with a viscid secretion, which enables them 
 to act as miniature fly-traps, in common with 
 Dionaea, Sarracenia, Darlingtonia, and Nepenthes, 
 although to what useful purpose in the economy of 
 the plant this peculiarity contributes remains yet to 
 be discovered. This little curiosity, and its ally D. 
 longifolia (Long -leaved Sundew), grow freely in a 
 Wardian case, or under a glass shade, planted in a 
 compost of fibrous peat and living sphagnum moss. 
 They must be kept moist at the root, and the humidity 
 of the atmosphere must also be tolerably regular, or the 
 plants will suffer. When carefully grown, few plants 
 are more interesting than the British Sundews. I ob- 
 tain my specimens from Hampstead, and find it best to 
 remove them with a good-sized ball of turf and moss, 
 so that their vigour does not suffer a check in removal. 
 Dyckia RARIFLORA {Orange-flowered D.) — This is 
 not an uncommon 
 succulent or Bro- 
 meliaceous plant, 
 and grows freely 
 in a sunny win- 
 dow. Its flowers 
 are of a bright 
 orange colour, on 
 erect spikes two 
 feet high. The 
 foliage is slender, 
 of a deep bluish- 
 green colour, and 
 elegantly recurved 
 over the pot-sides. 
 Division. D. argentea has silvery foliage, but is 
 very rare. South America. 
 
 Dyckia (Hechtia) argentia. 
 
274 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER {Orange- scarlet E.) — 
 This is a fine, though uncommon, hardy climber, 
 well suited for pot-culture on balconies, where it can 
 be trained up wire-trellises, or for covering old blank 
 walls. It has dark-green glossy foliage, and terminal 
 clusters of orange-coloured tubular flowers. It may 
 be raised from layers, or from seed, the latter being 
 freely produced on old-established plants. It is an 
 excellent plant for rockeries or old ruins, flowering 
 freely during the summer. Chili. 
 
 ECHEVERIA AGA VOICES {Agave-Uke E) — This is 
 a robust species, rather rare, but well suited for a 
 sunny window. Its fleshy foliage is of a translucent 
 or crystalline green colour, very pale ; and the habit 
 resembles that of a small Agave. Mexico. 
 
 E. FULGENS [Brilliant-flowered E.) — A common 
 plant, with rosolate glaucous leaves on stems an 
 inch or two high. It flowers freely, and lasts a long 
 time in beauty. Excellent for window-culture. S. 
 America. 
 
 E. SECUNDA {Glaucous-leaved E.) — This plant and 
 its numerous varieties are valuable for either window 
 or balcony culture. It is largely used in the London 
 
 parks for edging the 
 flower-beds during 
 summer. The plants 
 are shaped like a 
 rosette, the leaves 
 being of a silvery or 
 glaucous tint. Off"- 
 sets. Mexico. Other 
 species, as E. pulver- 
 ulenta, E. argentea, 
 and E. metallica, are well worth growing in a warm, 
 dry, sunny window, and will give the cultivator 
 
 Echeveria metallica glauca. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 2/5 
 
 but little trouble. Keep them quite dry from No- 
 vember to March. Mexico. 
 
 Epimedium MACRANTHUM {Large-flowered E) — 
 This is a handsome and very showy species, bearing 
 large, white, drooping flowers, on slightly drooping 
 panicles. It grows well in moist borders of sandy 
 peat earth, partially shaded ; or it can be grown in 
 a pot plunged in the border, as recommended for 
 Scillas and other hardy herbaceous plants. A variety 
 of this, E. niveum, differs in its having smaller leaves 
 and flowers. Propagated by division. A native of 
 Japan. 
 
 Epiphyllum truncatum {Truncate E) — This 
 beautiful succulent plant sports into at least a dozen 
 slightly different varieties, all worth growing, and 
 very useful as winter-flowering window-plants. They 
 are nearly related to Cactus (Phyllacactus), and grow 
 well on their own roots, but still better when grafted 
 on Cereus speciosissimus, a stVong-growing species, 
 two to three feet high. They are grafted by nursery- 
 men on young plants of Pereskia aculeata or P. gran- 
 diflora ; and they are sometimes grafted on the Indian 
 Figs (Opuntia) as curiosities. The process of grafting 
 is very simple. Take a piece of Epiphyllum in the 
 spring, say one last year's leaf, and the two young 
 ones now starting from its apex. Cut a slit in the 
 top of your Cereus or Opuntia sufRciently wide and 
 deep to receive the base of the leaf Prepare the 
 base of your leaf by carefully paring off the skin with 
 a keen knife. Now push your leaf-graft gently down 
 the slit in the stock, and fasten it in its place by run- 
 ning one or two of the long Cereus^pines right through 
 both stock and graft. If the Cereus is too tall, head 
 it down to a foot in height before grafting. After the 
 operation is finished, place your plant in a close Ward- 
 
276 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 ian case, and keep the atmosphere moist until a 
 junction is effected. Some wrap cotton wool round 
 the graft, and tie it tightly, but there is no need for 
 this. Cuttings of two or three leaves each strike very 
 freely in sand. These plants do best in a sunny win- 
 dow facing the south, and produce their purple, lilac, 
 or orange-scarlet crystalline flowers in tolerable abund- 
 ance about Christmas. Brazil. 
 
 Equisetum sylvestris {Horse - tail). — Our en- 
 graving gives an excellent idea of the light and 
 graceful appearance presented by these common 
 
 specimen of Equisetum in a Pot. 
 
 plants when well grown. The conditions necessary 
 to their successful treatment are a good loamy soil, 
 well drained, a moist shady situation, and a good ' 
 supply of water at the root when growing. These 
 plants are found in nearly every ditch, and should be 
 dug up during spring, several species commonly met 
 with being well worih culture. Europe. 
 
 Eranthis iiyemalis {Common Winter Aconite).— 
 This is an early spring-flowering plant, quite hardy, 
 and often met with naturalised in old gardens and 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 277 
 
 shrubberies. It grows freely beneath the shade of 
 trees, and its bright yellow flowers, being abundantly 
 produced, have a very cheerful appearance. It is ad- 
 mirably adapted for edging window-boxes containing 
 hardy shrubs and spring flowers. Division of old 
 clumps. Europe. 
 
 Erythronium DENS-CANIS {Dog's-tooth Violet). 
 — This is another lovely old border-flower, commonly 
 known under the above name, from the close resem- 
 
 Eranthis hyemalis. Erythronium dms-canis. 
 
 blance its tubers bear to the incisor teeth of that 
 ubiquitous animal. Its foliage alone is ornamental, 
 being of a delicate green colour, blotched with brown. 
 Its nodding or drooping flowers are of a soft rose 
 colour, or white, and very beautiful. Roots planted in 
 window-boxes in the autumn flower the following 
 spring. Europe. 
 
 Eschscholtzia californica {Orange-flowered E). 
 A Californian annual, with glaucous, finely-divided 
 
2/8 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 foliage, and bright yellow flowers, deep orange in the 
 centre. It comes freely from either autumn or spring 
 sown seed, and soon naturalises itself in gardens, if 
 undisturbed. It is interesting on account of the ex- 
 tinguisher-shaped covering of the petals, which de- 
 taches itself at the base, and is thrown off before the 
 flowers expand. 
 Eucalyptus globulus {Blue Gum-tree). — This is 
 
 a distinct and noble 
 plant for the sum- 
 mer decoration of 
 balconies. Its foli- 
 age is of a glaucous 
 or pale-blue tint, 
 and contrasts very 
 effectively with 
 darker vegetation. 
 It is a fine plant 
 for sub-tropical 
 gardening during 
 summer, and may 
 be seen in most of 
 the London parks. 
 L» It is also largely 
 grown for conserva- 
 tory decoration. 
 Australia. 
 
 EUCOMIS PUNC- 
 TATA {Spotted- 
 Stemmed E.) — A 
 summer - flowering 
 half - hardy bulb, 
 well adapted for window or balcony culture. Its 
 leaves are bright green, many-spotted below and at 
 the base. Flower-spike also spotted, closely set with 
 
 Eucalyptus globulus. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 279 
 
 pale-green flowers with a black spot in the centre. 
 At the summit of the spike is a dense crown of green 
 leaves. Division. Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Eugenia Ugni {Purple-fruited Myrile).— This 
 evergreen plant closely resembles the common Myrtle 
 in general habit. It is bushy and bears a profusion of 
 white blossoms in the spring, and these are followed 
 by a crop of bluish-purple berries the size of large 
 Peas. These berries are edible, and are much relished 
 by some, having a peculiarly rich musky flavour. It 
 grows as freely as a Myrtle in the window, and is 
 well worth growing. Strike cuttings in sand during 
 the spring or after flowering. S. America (Chili). 
 
 Fabian A imbricata {Erica-like F.)— -This is an 
 excellent window-plant, closely resembling an Erica 
 (Heath) both in habit and bloom. The plant is 
 about I foot high, dwarf and bushy, with minute 
 light-green scale-like leaves, closely imbricated along 
 the slender branches. Flowers tubular, wax-like, 
 5^ of an inch long, tapering to the base or funnel- 
 shaped, and of snowy whiteness. Cuttings .1 inch 
 long, inserted in pure white sand. Chili. 
 
 Farfugium GRANDE {Yellow-blotched F.) — This 
 plant has heart-shaped leaves, reminding one of the 
 common British Coltsfoot, of a deep green colour, 
 irregularly marked with circular pale-yellow blotches. 
 Pot it in very sandy soil, and it makes an effective 
 window or balcony plant. Division. China. 
 
 Ferns. — Nearly all Ferns may be grown in War- 
 dian cases in the sitting-room, and some will do very 
 well in the open window. They are among the most 
 elegantly beautiful of all plants. (See List.) 
 
 Festuca glauca {Blue-leaved F.) — A tufted grass 
 of a soft blue or pale-lavender tint, very useful for 
 pot-culture, though perfectly hardy. It grows well 
 
280 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 in sandy loam either in the window or case. It is a 
 nice companion-plant to Isolepis gracilis. Division. 
 South of Europe. 
 
 FICUS ELASTICA {India-rubber). — One of the most 
 distinct and effective of all indoor window-plants. It 
 
 has great leathery 
 leaves of a glossy 
 green colour, and 
 the young foliage 
 is enveloped in 
 reddish-crimson 
 sheaths. The latter 
 appendages are in- 
 teresting from a 
 botanical point of 
 view, as they show 
 the circulation of 
 the sap under a 
 microscope. The 
 plant grows freely 
 out of doors during 
 the summer months. 
 Cuttings struck in 
 the spring in a close 
 humid case make 
 nice little plants 
 following winter. S. 
 America. 
 
 FlORNiA PULCHELLA {Beautiful Bent-grass). — One 
 of the prettiest of new ornamental Grasses, easily 
 raised from seed, and it grows well either in pots or 
 boxes. The habit is well shown in the accompanying 
 engraving ; and it deserves culture, its spray-like 
 inflorescence being well adapted for cutting. South 
 of Europe. 
 
 Ficus elastica. 
 
 or window decoration the 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS, 
 
 281 
 
 Fiornia pulchella. 
 
 Fragaria indica {Indian Strawberry). — An ele- 
 gant trailing-plant, admirably adapted for baskets 
 in the window, or 
 as a bracket-plant 
 in a pot. Its run- 
 ners droop 2 or 3 
 feet below the bas- 
 ket, and are prettily- 
 ornamented with 
 greenish - white 
 flowers and its scar- 
 let or crimson fruit. 
 N. India. 
 
 The British 
 wood Strawberry 
 (F. vesca) is a more 
 common and equally graceful species, although it 
 does not last so long in bearing. Alpine or perpetual- 
 fruiting Strawberries are also adapted for basket- 
 culture, and fruit very freely. They are all easily 
 propagated by taking off the young plants after they 
 have been layered in small pots. To do this, take a 
 pot of light sandy soil, and placing the little unrooted 
 plant on the surface, secure it in its position either 
 with a hair-pin, wooden peg, or a small stone. They 
 root well in a fortnight if kept moist. 
 
 Francoa RAMOSA (Hairy - leaved F.) — An old 
 plant, with irregularly-lobed hairy leaves, and tall 
 spikes or panicles of white or white and pink tinted 
 blossoms. There are one or two other species — this 
 and F. appendiculata forming charming late autumn 
 or winter flowering plants. They may be struck 
 from cuttings in the spring, or raised from seeds, and 
 will grow plunged outside in a sheltered position 
 during the summer months. Remove them inside 
 
282 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 to flower, and they last a long time in beauty. 
 Chili. 
 
 Fuchsia. — This is a very beautiful genus from 
 Mexico, Chili, and Peru. The hybrid varieties are 
 well known in gardens as very graceful, free-growing, 
 decorative plants ; and some of the species are hardy 
 in warm sheltered positions along such portions of 
 our coast as feel the effects of the warm Gulf Stream. 
 Grown in pots. Fuchsias flower throughout the spring, 
 summer, and autumn ; and they bloom profusely when 
 planted outside, until cut off by the frosts. The more 
 hardy species, are F. coccinea, F. conica, F. corymbi- 
 flora, F. fulgens, — a well-known old species, with large 
 purple-tinted foliage and orange-scarlet or vermilion- 
 coloured flowers, 3 inches in length. It is quite 
 hardy in the south of England, but is more often met 
 with in cottage-windows, cultivated as a pot-plant. 
 F. globosa, F. gracilis, F. microphylla, and others, 
 are hardy in Devon, Cornwall, Isle of Man, and 
 along some parts of the Irish coast. F. Riccartoni 
 has attained a diameter of 50 or 60 feet in warm 
 sheltered positions near the sea, forming a truly noble 
 object worth going miles to see. F. Dominiana, 
 F. Magellanica, and many other plants considered 
 tender, succeed well planted out along warm sheltered 
 borders in Cornwall and Devon. During severe 
 winters these plants are often killed to the ground, 
 but if protected with a mulching of rotten leaves or 
 dung they shoot out fresh and vigorous in the spring. 
 Fuchsias are nearly all beautiful, and among the 
 most easily cultivated of all pot-plants. They strike 
 freely from cuttings of the young wood in spring, and 
 if struck early (March), will bloom in small pots the 
 following autumn. Some of the variegated varieties, 
 as " Golden Fleece " and " Sunray," are very pretty 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 283 
 
 for edgings. All Fuchsias grow best outside during 
 the summer months, and flower profusely. 
 
 FUNKIA JAPONICA {Japanese F.) — A tufted tuber- 
 ous-rooted plant, having bright green heart-shaped 
 foliage on fleshy stalks. The leaves are marked with 
 longitudinal nerves or veins. Flowers curved, milk- 
 white, on nodding spikes, and having the perfume of 
 orange-blossoms. Japan. 
 
 F. SlEBOLDi {Siebold's F) — A glaucous -leaved 
 species, with spikes of pale-lilac flowers, very freely 
 produced during the summer and autumn. Both 
 species make effective pot-plants for balcony decora- 
 tion when grown in rich loam and leaf- mould, or 
 well-rotted manure. Division. Japan. 
 
 Galanthus nivalis {Common Snowdrop). — A 
 well-known early spring-flowering bulb, common in 
 old country gardens, either as edgings or naturalised in 
 neglected portions of the grounds. Flowers of snowy 
 whiteness, the inner segments (petals) most delicately 
 streaked and margined with bright green. There is a 
 double variety. Britain. 
 
 G. Imperati closely resembles this species, but is 
 at least twice the size in all its parts. 
 
 G. PLICATUS {Crimea Snowdrop). — A large-growing 
 species. The strap-shaped leaves are folded on both 
 sides near the margin, whence the specific name. 
 Flowers on long scapes, smaller and greener than 
 those of G. nivalis. Propagated by division, and may 
 be grown for window or balcony as recommended for 
 Colchicum. Crimea. 
 
 Genista— J^^ Cytisus. 
 
 Geranium {Cranes-hill). — Under this name most 
 window-gardeners will recognise either zonal or fancy 
 Pelargoniums, so perhaps we had better retain it here. 
 It is as well to know, however, that Geraniums are 
 
284 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 properly herbaceous plants {j.e., they generally die 
 down throughout the winter) with regular flowers. 
 Pelargoniums, on the other hand, are perennial 
 shrubs with irregular flowers (top petals largest), 
 and generally a less number of stamens. We have 
 several British species of Geranium commonly met 
 with in hedges and on dry banks. 
 
 To resume our subject. Geraniums (Pelargoniums) 
 are among the most useful of all .plants for the 
 balcony or window garden. They are divided by 
 florists into several different classes, among which the 
 fancy or French show kinds, gold and bronze Zonals, 
 or horse-shoe-leaved, gold and silver Tricolors, and 
 the green or variegated Ivy-leaved varieties, are the 
 most prominent. All these may be grown outside 
 during the warmer portion of the year, and are very 
 effective for indoor decoration. The gold and silver, 
 or bronze Zonals are very effective as foliage-plants 
 alone. The Ivy-leaved section are really graceful as 
 window-plants ; and some of the prettiest specimens 
 of these we have seen for the past two or three years 
 have been cultivated by the soldiers stationed at 
 Knightsbridge Barracks. For either balcony or win- 
 dow boxes they are unrivalled, and should always 
 be grown. All the kinds are easily propagated by 
 inserting cuttings in a balcony or window box during 
 the summer months. In the spring they may be struck 
 easily in one of Barr's propagating cases ; and cut- 
 tings taken off so late as August may be well rooted 
 in the open border before the frosts commence, and 
 make pretty little plants for the next year's decora- 
 tions. Most of the best sorts for outdoor decoration 
 may be seen in the London parks during the summer 
 months. The decorative kinds are hybrids, but some 
 of the Cape species are well worth cultivation. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 285 
 
 Gnaphalium LANATUM {Woolfy-kavedG.)—A beau- 
 tiful trailing-plant for hanging-baskets or for planting 
 in balcony or window boxes, where it can fall over 
 the sides and droop in a natural manner. Grown in 
 a basket along with fresh green Ivy, Saxifraga sar- 
 mentosa, or S. Fortunei, Tradescantia viridis, Linaria 
 cymballaria, Fragaria Indica, and F. semperflorens, 
 it forms a distinct and striking object. It has slender 
 stems, and small oblong woolly leaves of a bright 
 silvery colour. Cuttings strike freely in the spring 
 if kept dry and exposed to the sun. It can be kept 
 dwarf and compact as an edging-plant by pinching. 
 Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 GOMPHRENA GLOBOSA {Globe Amaranth). — This is 
 one of the prettiest of all half-hardy annuals, bearing 
 purple, rose, orange, or 
 white everlasting flowers 
 (see fig.) Seedlings 
 raised in the spring may 
 either be planted out- 
 side or grown in pots. 
 They generally bloom in 
 July or August, and 
 last a long time in 
 beauty. The flowers 
 are useful for cutting, 
 either as Immortelles or 
 for ordinary decorative 
 uses. Seed. India. 
 
 GONIOPHLEBIUM AP- 
 PENDICULATUM. — This attractive species has ele- 
 gantly cut foliage, delicately pencilled with deep 
 purple, and is thus alluded to by H. K. in the 
 'Gardeners' Chronicle': "It is well known that 
 many Fern-leaves, even when they are matured, will 
 
 Gomphrma globosa. 
 
286 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 not stand long in water after being cut — one or two 
 days at the most will suffice to finish their beauty. 
 Even the Maidenhair, though quite matured, will not 
 stand more than three days. I may mention one kind 
 which is a very beautiful Fern in any way we choose 
 to look at it, whether in pot, basket, or Fern-case — 
 Goniophlebium appendiculatum, fronds of which will 
 stand three weeks in water. I look on this Fern as a 
 most valuable one, especially during the dull season 
 of the year. It is a warm greenhouse kind, and, like 
 most of the valuable winter decorative Ferns, is most 
 impatient of heat. It should never be allowed to get 
 dry, and a sa:ucer of water at the roots in summer 
 will assist it very much to mature its numerous 
 fronds for the winter months,, when they are found 
 really valuable." S. America. 
 
 Grasses. — In addition to the common Grasses of 
 our lanes and meadows, many of which are very light 
 and graceful, we have a choice selection of exotic 
 species well worth cultivation in pots for general 
 decorative purposes (see List). They are readily pro- 
 pagated from seeds sown in the spring, after which 
 they succeed perfectly under the treatment generally 
 adopted for hardy and half-hardy annuals. Sow the 
 seeds in March in pots of light, rich, sandy earth, and 
 thin out the young plants if they come up too 
 thickly. Pots of Briza maxima, Bryopyrum siculum, 
 or Agrostis pulchella, are very striking ; and at least 
 one enterprising grower of pot-plants for the London 
 markets gave these pretty species a trial during the 
 last season. A few pots of ornamental Grasses 
 furnish nice feathery plumes or sprays for cutting. 
 They require a liberal allowance of water at the 
 root. 
 
 Grevillea robusta {Robust G^.)— This is a plant 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 287 
 
 with elegantly cut foliage of a bright green colour, 
 and is often used as a sub -tropical plant out of 
 doors during the summer months. Grown in a pot it 
 makes a pretty little table-plant, when in a young 
 state. The foliage comes in handy for cutting. N. 
 Holland. 
 
 Griselinia macrophylla {Large-leaved G.) — 
 This is an evergreen shrub nearly allied to Aucuba, of 
 only moderate growth, and one which has thick, bright 
 green, succulent-like leaves, wherein consists its chief 
 beauty. It is partial to a good loamy soil and some 
 decayed manure, but almost any good soil will suit it, 
 and it has no objection to peat or leaf soil. It requires 
 no special care, nor more warmth than that afforded 
 by a dwelling-house window, and if hardily nursed, 
 will bear a slight frost with impunity. It is one of 
 the best window - plants that can be grown. In a 
 cottage near Glasgow, I saw two plants of it in a 6-in. 
 pot ; the owner had obtained them three years ago, 
 and, since he first possessed them, he has not repotted 
 or top-dressed them, but has kept them within a 
 window in a room where gas is nightly burned. Dur- 
 ing the summer time he occasionally places them out 
 of doors to get the rain, or a " wash," as he terms it, 
 and sometimes he lays them on their sides and pours 
 water over them through a watering-pot rose, an 
 operation which answers as well as syringing. He 
 waters them when they are dry, giving more in a late 
 spring and summer than he does in winter. They are 
 not very subject to the attacks of insects, damp, or 
 any diseases, and dust can easily be sponged off their 
 leaves. These plants, although well attended to, have 
 been grown under circumstances by no means favour- 
 able for the past three years, yet they retain their 
 leaves and colour well, and are bright and cheerful in 
 
288 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 appearance. It is propagated from cuttings or layers. 
 South America. 
 
 Gypsophila elegans {Elegant G.) — This and sev- 
 eral other varieties are often grown in the open 
 border, but they form nice little tufted plants in 
 balcony or window boxes, and furnish elegant cut 
 
 Gypsophila saxifraga, 
 
 spray for bouquets or dinner-table decorations. They 
 are readily propagated from seeds sown in a gentle 
 heat during the spring months. G. saxifraga is dwarf 
 and very beautiful (see fig.) Germany. 
 
 Hedera helix {Common English Ivy). — This, to- 
 gether with H. Hibernica [Irish Ivy), H. Canadensis, 
 and the numerous sports and varieties of each, are 
 valuable for either room or balcony culture. The 
 Ivy is peculiarly a household plant, and being quite 
 hardy, is easily grown in any position indoors. Even 
 in gloomy rooms it is quite at home, and throws out 
 its shoots and fresh green leathery foliage in all 
 directions. We have already alluded to this plant, 
 but, even at the risk of repetition, we must again 
 direct attention to its adaptability. In Paris, America, 
 Northern Germany, and Russia, it is much more 
 popular than with us, and is trained over portable 
 screens, and even couches or sofas are overshadowed 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 289 
 
 by a fresh green bower of its bright glossy leaves (see 
 fig. p. 168). It is not particular as to compost— indeed 
 any garden-soil will grow Ivy; but it requires an abun- 
 dant supply of water at the root. Young shoots root 
 
 Jvy Screen for the Drawing-room, with Flowers at its base. 
 
 and grow freely in wet sand or sphagnum moss ; and 
 wherever green freshness and beauty are required, in 
 place of bare walls, either indoors or outside, the Ivy 
 will luxuriate with but little trouble. (See List.) 
 
 Heliotropium peruvianum {Heliotrope). — This 
 is a deliciously perfumed plant, often called " Cherry 
 Pie " in country districts, where it occasionally finds 
 a place as a window-plant. The plant is a perpetual 
 bloomer, bearing terminal trusses of pale-lilac or 
 bluish-purple flowers. It strikes readily from cut- 
 tings in the spring, and grows freely as a bedding- 
 plant during the summer, planted out in the borders. 
 It should always find a place in the window-garden, 
 no collection of sweet-scented flowers being complete 
 without it. Peru. 
 
 Helleborus NIGER {Christmas Rose). — A useful 
 T 
 
290 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 hardy plant, having leaves lobed like one's hand, and 
 of leathery substance. The flowers are white, or white 
 tinged with soft rose, fragrant, and very useful, being 
 produced during the depth of winter. Grown in pots, 
 the flowers are of wax -like purity. If cultivated 
 outside, cover the crowns with a bell-glass or hand- 
 light, to prevent the blossoms becoming splashed by 
 heavy rains. There are several varieties. Division. 
 Austria. 
 
 Hepaticas — see Anemone. 
 
 HIPPEASTRUM — see Amaryllis. 
 
 HOTTEIA (Spir^a) JAPONICA {Japanese Meadow- 
 siveei). — It is generally best to buy imported roots 
 in the autumn, as they flower much better than home- 
 grown plants. Pot them in sandy loam, and cover 
 
 Hotda (Spircsd) japonica. 
 
 the pots with cinder-ashes, as recommended for Hya- 
 cinths and other bulbs. Its foliage is of the brightest 
 green colour, and the whole plant is dwarf and bushy 
 in habit, bearing numerous spikes of white flowers. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 29 1 
 
 well adapted for cutting. It is also known as Astilbe 
 japonica, and is quite hardy, growing and flowering 
 in an open sandy border (see fig.) Division. Japan. 
 
 HuMEA ELEGANS {Strong - smelling //;)— This 
 makes an elegant balcony-plant, from seeds sown 
 the preceding year, having 
 fresh green leaves and 
 great panicles of brownish 
 flowers. The branchlets of 
 the latter droop as ele- 
 gantly as a fairy fountain. 
 It grows freely outside dur- 
 ing summer, but requires 
 plenty of water. The whole 
 plant is strongly scented. 
 N. S. Wales. 
 
 HUMULUS LUPULUS 
 {Hop -plant). — One of the 
 very best of all hardy Humea eUgans. 
 
 climbers for covering walls, pillars, balconies, trellis- 
 work, or verandahs. In growth, it somewhat re- 
 sembles the Grape Vine, but grows quicker, and 
 is even more graceful in habit. Its foliage is of 
 a deep green colour, and where a climber is wanted 
 to drape blank walls quickly, few can equal this. 
 Division. Britain. 
 
 Hyacinthus ORIENTALIS {Common HyacintJi). — 
 This is well known as an excellent window-plant, 
 grown in either pots or water-glasses. There are 
 numerous varieties, mostly raised on the Dutch bulb 
 farms, from whence they are imported to this country 
 in the autumn. After flowering, plant your bulbs in 
 the open border, where they will bloom the following 
 spring. It is always best to employ new bulbs for 
 forcing every autumn, as they are sure to flower well. 
 
292 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Levant. Roman Hyacinths bear slender spikes of 
 white and blue flowers very early in the season, and 
 are very useful for cutting, as they bloom before the 
 ordinary kinds. Bulbs in autumn. For details of 
 culture in glasses or windows, see p. 68. Italy. 
 
 Hydrangea hortensis {Common Hydrangea). — 
 This is a noble plant, being quite hardy in sheltered 
 borders in the south of England. It bears its great 
 trusses of rosy flowers all through the summer, lasting 
 several months in beauty. It is largely grown in pots 
 for Covent Garden in the spring or early summer, and 
 makes a very showy plant for the balcony or window. 
 If watered with alum-water, or if a handful of iron 
 filings are mixed with the soil in which your plant is 
 potted, it will bear blue flowers ; but the natural deli- 
 cate rosy hue is preferable, and we do not recommend 
 trickery in window-gardening. Cuttings of the young 
 wood strike freely in the spring, and may be grown 
 in small pots out of doors during summer. After 
 they have rooted and grown a joint or two, pinch out 
 the centres, which causes them to make bushy little 
 plants, and they will make nice little flowering speci- 
 mens the following summer. China. 
 
 Hydrocleis (Limnocharis) Humboldtii {Hum- 
 boldfs H) — A fine free-flowering aquatic, often culti- 
 vated in the stove, but it will grow quite freely in the 
 window in a large inverted bell-glass or small aqua- 
 rium. Last summer I saw it flowering freely in an open- 
 air tank in the Jardin des Plants, Paris. It has jointed 
 stems, bright green cordate or oblong leaves, and pale- 
 yellow flowers, with a dark-purple centre. Grows well 
 treated like Aponogeton distachyon. S. America. 
 
 Hypericum calycinum {Creeping St John's Wort). 
 — There are several species all worth growing on the 
 balcony, and perfectly hardy. The present species 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 293 
 
 will grow in any shady position, even under the drip 
 of trees, and bears very large, showy, yellow flowers. 
 It is dwarfer than some of the others, growing a foot 
 high. Division. Ireland. 
 
 iBERis SEMPERFLORENS {Candytuft). — These hardy 
 border-plants are easily raised from spring-struck 
 cuttings, and are very useful for balcony decoration, 
 bearing dense clusters of white flowers. There are 
 several varieties grown in old gardens, and they are 
 very useful for cut-flowers. Seeds. Sicily. 
 
 Imantophyllum miniatum {Scarlet-flowered I.) 
 — A free-growing bulbous plant that grows and flowers 
 well in a small pot if exposed to the sun. Its leaves 
 are strap -shaped and deep green in colour. Flowers 
 in summer 10-12 at the apex of a flat stem. They 
 are of a bright orange-shaded vermilion. Plenty of 
 water. Division. Natal. 
 
 IRESINE Herbstii {Purple - leaved I) — A well- 
 known half- hardy foliage - plant from Brazil, well 
 adapted for pot or balcony culture. Cuttings root very 
 freely in the spring. Planted in hanging-baskets it 
 shows to great advantage, its leaves shining with the 
 richness of stained glass. There are several other 
 varieties, as I. Lindenii, I. acuminata, and others, worth 
 culture. 
 
 Iris GERMANICA {German Iris). — This is a well- 
 known border - plant with glaucous sword - shaped 
 leaves, and great purple-striped flowers. All the 
 species grow best in a deep sandy border ; still many 
 of the small - growing species may be successfully 
 cultivated in pots for window or balcony decoration 
 during summer. A plant of I. germanica makes a 
 good centre for a hanging-basket. Division. Europe. 
 
 Iris fcetidissima {Gladwin or Scarlet-berried /.) 
 — This plant is a native of England, and has recently 
 
294 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 come into notice on account of the ornamental char- 
 acter of its fruit, which is sold in Covent Garden 
 Market for use in the Christmas decoration of churches, 
 
 as well as for domestic or- 
 naments. It bears purp- 
 lish-coloured flowers which 
 are succeeded by clusters 
 of brown capsules, and 
 these when ripe burst into 
 three segments exposing 
 the bright scarlet berry-like 
 seeds which are not unlike 
 Holly-berries in size and 
 colour. The plant is of 
 course quite hardy, and 
 fruits well in the southern 
 and eastern counties. There 
 is a variegated-leaved form 
 Iris foetidissima (fruits). ^f this plant Well adapted 
 
 for pot -culture, its green leaves being distinctly 
 striped with creamy-white lines. It grows best in 
 a rich sandy compost, and requires plenty of water. 
 
 All the species are easily propagated by division. 
 Our illustration is a good representation of the fruit 
 of I. foetidissima on a reduced scale. 
 
 ISOLEPis GRACILIS {Graceful I.) — This looks like 
 a fine-leaved grass of a fresh green colour, but belongs 
 to the sedges. It is used by the thousand by the 
 London florists for decorative purposes, and is one of 
 the prettiest plants with which to edge a basket or 
 stand. It must be plentifully supplied with moisture. 
 Being dwarf, it does well for a small case. Division. 
 
 Jasminium OFFICINALE {Common White Jasmine). 
 — This is one of the prettiest of hardy climbers for 
 covering walls or balconies. Its sweetly -perfumed 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 295 
 
 Iris stylosa. 
 
 Iris sibirica. 
 
 Iris iberica. 
 
 Iris gerinanica. 
 
296 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 flowers, borne during the summer months, are well 
 adapted for bouquets, button-holes, or dinner-table 
 decorations. Another kind, J. nudiflorum, bears its 
 golden star-like blossoms on its naked branches at 
 Christmas. Fine effects may be made by planting 
 this and training it up amongst Pyracantha japonica 
 or Cotoneaster niicrophylla ; its bright yellow flowers 
 contrasting beautifully with their crimson or scarlet 
 berries. It also looks cheerful trained up among Ivy. 
 J. grandiflorum bears large white flowers, and is useful 
 for pot-culture. J. revolutum is a fine large-flowering 
 kind which bears its yellow flowers during summer, 
 and is suitable for a wall. Cuttings or layers. E. 
 Indies. 
 Kalosanthes — see Crassula. 
 Lachenalia tricolor {Three-coloured Z.)— All 
 
 the Lachenalias are 
 pretty bulbous plants 
 from the Cape, and 
 grow freely in the win- 
 dow with but little 
 attention. They have 
 bright green leaves, 
 more or less blotched 
 with purple or brown 
 like those of a common 
 Wood Orchis, and erect 
 spikes of drooping yel- 
 low and red flowers. 
 They last a long time 
 in bloom. After they 
 Lachenalia pmdula. ^^^^ jo^e flowering set 
 
 them in a sunny position outside, and water them until 
 the leaves fade, when they may be removed to a moder- 
 ately dry shelf in a cellar from which frost is excluded. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 297 
 
 Here they may remain until wanted for starting in 
 the spring. All deciduous bulbs and tubers, as Dahlia 
 or Canna roots, may be kept in a dry cellar, the 
 temperature of which is equal during the winter 
 months. L. pendula (see fig. p. 296) is a very pretty 
 little plant, as indeed are all the members of the 
 group. Division. 
 
 Lastr^ea {Male Fern). — Strong - growing Ferns 
 well adapted for a shady position on the balcony 
 during summer. The numerous varieties of L. filix- 
 mas and L. dilatata are perfectly hardy and grow in 
 any common garden-soil, but require shade and con- 
 stant moisture, both overhead by syringing and also 
 at the root. L. atrata and L. opaca are half hardy, 
 and make nice pot-plants. Division. Little hardy 
 ferneries may be constructed in any small back yard 
 or garden even in the heart of the crowded city, and a 
 few hardy Ferns will luxuriate if they get the shade 
 and humidity so essential to this class of plants. 
 British woods. 
 
 Lathyrus LATIFOLIUS [Everlasting Pea). — A well- 
 known plant in old cottage gardens, having glaucous 
 foliage and winged stems. The flowers are white and 
 purple, very freely produced. It grows S to 6 feet 
 high, and is a very ornamental plant.. There is also 
 a beautiful variety bearing white flowers which are 
 very useful for floral decorations, and are much used 
 in Covent Garden for bouquets during summer. Seed 
 or division. Europe. 
 
 L. ODORATUS {Common Sweet-Pea). — Similar in 
 habit to the last, but is an annual, bearing white, 
 scariet, lilac, or purple ^ flowers, very freely during 
 summer. Like the last it grows 4 to 6 feet high, 
 and may be trained on trellises or light brushwood. 
 In town gardens, or on balconies, the seeds may be 
 
298 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 sown in pots or hanging-baskets, and the plants al- 
 lowed to droop naturally. Sicily. 
 
 Leucojum vernum {the Spring Snowflake). — 
 This blooms about a month later than the Snowdrop, 
 bearing its usually solitary flowers on stalks from 4 
 to 6 inches high. The fragrant drooping flower re- 
 sembles that of a large Snowdrop an inch long, the 
 tips of the petals being well marked with a green or 
 yellowish spot. The leaves are ribbon-like, nearly 5^ 
 inch across, and, after the plant has flowered, attain the 
 length of nearly a foot. Native of Europe. 
 
 L. ^STIVUM (the Summer Snowflake). — This is 
 a much taller and more vigorous plant, bearing its 
 flowers on stalks from i foot to i)^ foot high. 
 The flowers resemble those of L. vernum in size, 
 shape, and colour, but have the tips of the petals 
 
 marked with green 
 both inside and out, 
 and are always pro- 
 duced in clusters of 
 from four to eight 
 blooms on each stem. 
 The leaves, which are 
 very numerous, are 
 more than a foot long, 
 and in shape are like 
 the leaves of Daffodils. 
 It blooms early in sum- 
 mer, and is naturalised 
 on the banks of the 
 Thames between Wool- 
 wich and Greenwich, 
 manner as Col- 
 
 Leucojum cestivum. 
 
 Both may be grown in the same 
 
 chicums, 
 (See fig.) 
 
 Zephyranthus, and other hardy bulbs. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 299 
 
 LiLIUM {Lilies). — Several hardy species may be 
 grown in large pots in a compost of sandy loam, rot- 
 ten manure, or leaf-mould. When growing they re- 
 quire plenty of moisture. The best way to grow 
 Lilies for window or balcony decoration is to pot the 
 bulbs in the spring, and plunge them in the open bor- 
 der, where they can remain until the flowers begin to 
 open, when they may be taken up and removed to 
 the balcony to bloom. After flowering plunge them 
 again, and let them take care of themselves through 
 the winter. The best for pot-culture are L. croceum, 
 L. speciosum (lancifolium), L. chalcedonicum, L. mar- 
 tagon, L. candidum, L. eximium, L. tigrinum, L. 
 Thunbergianum, and their varieties. 
 
 L. AURATUM {Golden-rayed L") — A correspondent of 
 the ' Garden ' alludes to this species as follows, after 
 growing it in the cold, smoky atmosphere of Leeds, 
 the well-known capital of the West Riding. It should 
 be borne in mind that the atmosphere around such 
 northern towns as Leeds, Bradford, Sheffield, and 
 Manchester, is heavily charged with sulphuric and 
 other free acids, and smoke, which render plant- 
 culture far more difficult in such localities than we 
 find it in London, where the air is comparatively pure 
 and bright. " I have grown this for two years, and 
 it seems to thrive very well, and to be perfectly hardy, 
 as are also the lance-leaved kinds ; but the latter 
 bloom so very late that the blossoms do not open 
 properly. I should state that my soil is of a very 
 ordinary character, having had no particular attention 
 bestowed upon it. It is of moderate depth — say 
 about 18 inches. My plants of L. auratum are 
 about 4 feet high, and I expect to see them much 
 higher next year. The blooms are quite as large as 
 those which one sees at shows, and are very richly 
 
300 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Lilium lancifoUum. 
 
 Lilium aurahtm. 
 
 Lilium superhum. 
 
 Lilium chalcedonicum. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 301 
 
 spotted, the yellow bar or ray up the centre of the 
 petals being also very distinct. Their perfume can 
 be smelt, on a still evening, at a considerable distance 
 away, and is most agreeable. The plants get no 
 shelter except what is obtained from a garden-wall, 
 and they are quite open to the north-east and east. 
 The district, too, is smoky, being a manufacturing 
 one." 
 
 LINARIA CYMBALARIA {Ivy-leaved Toad-flax). — A 
 very elegant native plant, common on old walls and 
 ruins in most parts of the country. It is well worth 
 naturalising on old bare walls or rock-work in the 
 garden, while it is one of the most graceful of all 
 pendent plants for culture in a pot or hanging-basket, 
 growing rapidly, and bearing a profusion of its small 
 purple Snapdragon-like flowers from the axils of its 
 fresh green leaves. Propagated from seed, or young 
 plants may be re- 
 moved from their 
 habitats, and potted 
 or planted as re- 
 quired. Britain. 
 This plant is seldom 
 cultivated as a pot- 
 plant in this country, 
 but is largely grown 
 for decorative pur- 
 poses in America. 
 
 LOASA TRICOLOR 
 [Three-coloured L.) 
 — The Loasas are 
 but little known, al- 
 though some of the 
 species are very pretty as well as curious, being fur- 
 nished with stinging hairyappendages like nettles. The 
 
 Loasa (laterita) tricolor. 
 
302 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 present species is an elegant climbing-plant, easily raised 
 from seed sown in the spring, and planted outside in 
 a sunny position about May. It is an excellent plant 
 for a window-box outside, trained up a light trellis, 
 and bears numerous bright orange-coloured flowers 
 among its lobed leaves. It also does well in a pot in 
 any light and moderately rich soil, and may be trained 
 up strings six or seven feet high. Our illustration is 
 an excellent reduced portrait of the plant. South 
 America. 
 
 Lobelia speciosa {Blv£ Showy L.) — A well- 
 known bedding-plant, nearly hardy, and well adapted 
 for planting the edges of window-boxes or hanging- 
 baskets, from which it droops gracefully, and bears 
 numerous bright blue flowers throughout the summer. 
 There are several other varieties worth growing. 
 Seeds and cuttings in the spring. Cape of Good 
 Hope. 
 
 LOMARIA CHILIENSIS [Chilian L.) — A hardy Fern, 
 very useful for indoor decorations. Its fronds are 
 lance-shaped, and of a deep green colour. Several 
 other species are well adapted for the Wardian or 
 Fern case, — as L. lanceolata, a beautiful and compact 
 light- green species with red veins ; L. nuda, a pretty 
 plant ; and L. L'Herminieri ; the last being a Tree- 
 fern in miniature, and one of the best : its young 
 fronds are of a blood-red or crimson colour, and it 
 succeeds perfectly in a case or under a glass shade. 
 Division. S. America. 
 
 LONICERA AUREA RETICULATA {Golden - netted 
 Honeysuckle). — A pretty golden variegated plant from 
 Japan, perfectly hardy, and well adapted for pot or 
 balcony culture, or for planting in borders for training 
 up sticks as a fence. It grows freely during the sum- 
 mer months. There are several other species worth 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 303 
 
 growing, as L. Japonica, L. pubescens, and L. 
 sempervirens (Trumpet Honeysuckle). The latter is 
 very pretty, bearing clusters of wax-like blossoms 
 during the summer among its fresh green foliage. 
 The common sweet- 
 scented Honeysuckle 
 (L. Periclymenum) is 
 found wild in our 
 woods and hedgerows, 
 and is a first-rate 
 plant for training over 
 balconies, or for a 
 rustic porch. It is 
 called " Woodbine " 
 in country districts. 
 
 LOPHOSPERMUM 
 SCANDENS {Creeping 
 Z.) — There are many- 
 varieties of this plant, 
 
 , . , , , , Lophospermum scandens. 
 
 which all grow and 
 
 flower freely trained along a trellis, during the sum- 
 mer months. Seed. Mexico. 
 
 LUZURIAGA RADICANS {Drooping Myrtle). — At 
 first sight this plant strikes one as resembling the 
 " Creeping Myrtle " (Myrsiphillum), from which, how- 
 ever, it is quite distinct. It grows well in an ordinary 
 window as a pot or bracket plant, bearing oblong 
 leaves of a deep green colour, and somewhat like 
 those of a small-leaved Myrtle in shape. Below the 
 leaves are of a glaucous or mealy hue, striped with 
 dark green. Its rambling growths droop gracefully 
 around the pot, forming a very pretty decorative 
 object. It is a native of Peru, and can readily be in- 
 creased by layers, cuttings, or division. 
 
 Lycaste Skinnerii {Charming Lycaste). — This is 
 
304 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 considered the best of all the choice epiphytal Orchids 
 for removal to the sitting-room or boudoir when in 
 bloom, and instances are recorded where it has con- 
 tinued in flower for three months in an ordinary- 
 apartment without being materially injured. The 
 
 plant is a robust grower, 
 and generally flowers 
 during the winter 
 months, when choice 
 flowers are scarce. It 
 is one of the best of 
 all Orchids for culture 
 in a Wardian case, and 
 will bear a minimum 
 winter temperature of 
 40° F. with impunity. 
 In potting, the pseudo- 
 bulbs should be ele- 
 vated above the rim of 
 the pot on a cone of 
 fibrous peat, crocks, and 
 living sphagnum, and 
 the plant should never 
 be allowed to become 
 There are numerous very 
 beautiful varieties of this plant, varying from pure 
 white, through all the intermediate shades of rose, to 
 a vivid rosy crimson with dark velvet-like markings 
 on the lip. Our reduced figure gives a good idea of 
 the general habit of the plant, and also the form of 
 the flowers, the latter being of a stout and wax-like 
 substance, lasting a long time after being cut. The 
 plant is a native of Central America (Guatemala), 
 where its flowers are used in the temples as offerings, 
 together with those of other native Orchids. 
 
 Lycaste Skinnerii, 
 
 thoroughly dry at the root. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 305 
 
 Lycium BARBARUM {Common Tea-tree or Box- 
 Thorn). — Often met with in country cottage gardens, 
 trailing over fences and up walls. It grows freely, 
 and is very ornamental in the autumn when laden 
 with its bright scarlet berries. Division. 
 
 Lycopodium — see also Selaginella. 
 
 Lycopodium dendroideum {Tree-like L.) — An 
 elegant-growing fresh green moss-like plant, much 
 used by the New York florists in the arrangement of 
 bouquets, wreaths, and other floral decorations. 
 
 Lysimachia nummularia {Creeping Jenny). — 
 This is a native plant, and of course perfectly hardy. 
 As a pot-plant, or for brackets and hanging-baskets, 
 it has few equals. Its fresh green leaves are nearly 
 round, hence the common name, " Money-wort," often 
 applied to it in country districts. In habit it is ex- 
 tremely graceful, hanging from the pot in graceful 
 festoons of foliage and yellow flowers. It is easily 
 propagated by division, and requires an abundant 
 supply of water at the root during summer. It 
 makes an elegant edging for planting along window- 
 boxes with Gnaphalium, Cerastiiim, or Blue Lobelia. 
 There is a beautiful golden-leaved variety in cultiva- 
 tion, which makes one of the best of all window- 
 plants. "When grown in pots, suspended like bas- 
 kets, the shoots hang down long and gracefully, and 
 completely hide the pots, but even then the plants 
 exhibit a flat-headedness that is rather objectionable. 
 This may be obviated by the following plan which we 
 once saw carried'out, and which we thought extremely 
 effective : Pots rather wider in proportion to their 
 depth than we commonly use, and about nine inches 
 in diameter at top, had an inch deep of crocks in their 
 bottom, and resting on these, in the centre of each 
 pot, was a nice stubby plant of the common or nar- 
 
 u 
 
3o6 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 row-leaved Myrtle, in large 6o-sized pots. Good 
 turfy loam mixed with decayed and dried cowdung 
 was then filled in all round, and in this the Creeping 
 Jenny had been planted in March, and grown on in 
 one of the greenhouses till June, when the pots were 
 fixed on brackets outside on either side of the win- 
 dows of the house ; and when we saw them a month 
 afterwards — in July — the Creeping Jenny had hidden 
 the pots, and was in full flower and leaf, while the 
 fresh and green Myrtles were pictures of health." 
 Britain. 
 
 Malva CRISPA {Frill-leaved Mallow). — This hardy 
 annual has an upright habit 
 of growth, good specimens 
 forming a perfect cone two 
 to three feet high. Its flowers 
 are small and inconspicuous, 
 but its elegantly crisped or 
 frilled leaves are ornamental, 
 and are also very useful for 
 dishing up fruit during the 
 summer months. It is well 
 worth growing for the latter 
 purpose, and is easily raised 
 from seeds sown in April on 
 an outside border. Native 
 of Europe, and naturalised in our gardens. 
 
 Mammillaria elephantidens [Elephants-tooth 
 Cactus). — All the Mammillarias are very attractive 
 plants, and of permanent interest even when not in 
 flower. Our figure shows the habit of these plants, 
 but the different species vary considerably in the size 
 of their teat-like divisions, and also in the colour and 
 arrangement of their spines. They bear delicate rose 
 or rosy-lilac tinted flowers, which last are succeeded 
 
 Malva crispa. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 307 
 
 by red or crimson fruits which last a long time and 
 add greatly to the beauty of the plant. Most of 
 them may be grown in a warm sunny window, but 
 the rarer or tender kinds should have the additional 
 protection of a glass case. Forty or fifty species of 
 these and other succulents may be grown in an 
 ordinary-sized case, and will always excite interest 
 and afford pleasure to their owner. They are pro- 
 pagated by offsets, which are very freely produced on 
 
 Mammillaria sulcolanata. 
 
 some of the commoner species. Like other Cacti 
 they should be potted in sandy loam and bricks or 
 "crocks," broken up into nodules the size of small 
 peas. They. must be watered carefully once or twice 
 a-week when growing during the summer, but should 
 be kept dry from November until March. For 
 species best worth cultivation see list of succulents, 
 post. All American. 
 
308 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Maranta faciata. — This is a charming plant, 
 with elegantly marbled foliage, and does well to- 
 gether with several other of the dwarf- growing 
 species in a close plant-case, or beneath a glass 
 shade. Pot them in fibrous, sandy peat, and chopped 
 sphagnum moss, on a good quantity of drainage, and 
 water freely during hot weather. In winter they 
 should be nearly dry, and at rest. M. vittata, M. 
 regalis, M. roseopicta, and others, are valuable for the 
 purpose above indicated. They will not grow well 
 in the open window. Propagate by division or pieces 
 of the fleshy root on a moist bottom-heat. Tropics 
 of both hemispheres. 
 
 Mathiola annua (Stocks). — Well known as one 
 of our best and most fragrant of half-hardy annuals, 
 bearing crimson, white, or purple flowers well adapted 
 for cutting, and deliciously fragrant. Seed in autumn 
 or spring. Italy. 
 
 Maurandya Barclayana (Barclay's M) — A 
 beautiful half-hardy climber, well adapted for the 
 balcony or window. Seedlings raised early in March 
 flower during the summer, bearing numerous violet 
 purple flowers, the inner portion of the tube set with 
 white hairs. There are also white and scarlet varieties 
 well worth growing for variety. Mexico. 
 
 Melianthus major (Honey -flower). — K well- 
 known sub-tropical plant, often used with good effect 
 in the parks. It has glaucous foliage, the lobes of 
 which are serrate along their margins. Grown in 
 pots or boxes it is an eff"ective and distinct foliage- 
 plant for summer decoration. Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Mesembryanthemum (Fig Marigolds).— K large 
 genus of succulent composites from the Cape, bearing 
 showy star-like flowers of various shades of colour. 
 As window-plants, either in pots or baskets, they are 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 309 
 
 very beautiful, especially in a warm position ; and, 
 like other succulents, they like bright sunshine. 
 They are easily propagated by pieces pulled or cut 
 off and laid in the sun on moist sand, where they 
 root freely in a few weeks, and often keep on flower- 
 ing as though nothing had happened. The following 
 is a good selection : M. amcenum, a compact plant, 
 with bright green foliage and brilliant rosy -lilac 
 flowers. M. aurantiacum, bright orange. M. con- 
 
 Melianthus major. 
 
 spicuum, with large, bright, rosy flowers. M. cordi- 
 folium, bright purple. M. cordifolium variegatum 
 {Golden-leaved M.), a beautiful, soft, golden-yellow 
 variety of the last, much used for edgings and carpet- 
 beds; it makes a fine plant for either pots or 
 baskets. M. cruciforme, pale lilac. M. crystallinum 
 {Ice-plant), a free-growing and thick-leaved species, 
 densely covered with crystal-like tubercles, which 
 
3IO 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 give it the appearance of being coated with ice. M. 
 deflexum, pale rose. M. falcatum, a dense, free- 
 flowering species, with small lilac-coloured flowers. 
 M. glaucum, bright yellow. M. inclaudens, pale 
 silvery lilac. M. imbricans, slender, glaucous leaves, 
 dense habit, flowers bright purple, fully an inch 
 across. M. lacerum, strong grower, with three-edged 
 leaves, serrated along the outer margin, and large 
 rosy-purple flowers 2 to 3 inches across. M. spec- 
 tabile, an effective plant, with glaucous leaves and 
 large bright purple flowers. For a window fully 
 exposed to the south, nothing can be better than a 
 nice collection of succulents, which are always in- 
 teresting and beautiful. They occasion but little 
 trouble ; indeed, if you go to the seaside for a month, 
 and lock up house, the chances are that on returning 
 
 home you will find the 
 plants looking as well 
 or better than you left 
 them. M. tigrinum, M. 
 fehnum, M. nuciforme, and 
 one or two other species, 
 are worth growing as 
 curiosities. 
 
 Mimosa pudica {Sen- 
 sitive plant). — This is 
 easily raised from seed 
 sown in spring, and grows 
 well in the window or 
 plant-case. Its foliage is 
 peculiarly sensitive, droop- 
 ing directly it is touched. No definite cause has yet 
 been assigned for this curious phenomenon, and it 
 is well worth careful investigation. Brazil. 
 
 MiMULUS MACULOSUS {Spotted Monkey-flozver). — 
 
 Mimosa pudica. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 31 1 
 
 These are beautiful plants for pot or border culture, 
 
 and are raised easily from spring-sown seeds. They 
 
 have bright green foliage 
 
 and numerous yellow 
 
 flowers, more or less 
 
 blotched and spotted 
 
 with bright crimson. M. 
 
 cardinalis (scarlet), M. 
 
 cupreus (orange scarlet), 
 
 and M. grandiflorus 
 
 (mixed colours), are all 
 
 worth growing for the 
 
 balcony during summer. 
 
 • . Mimulus cupreus. 
 
 America. 
 
 M. MOSCHATUS {Common Scented Musk).— A uni- 
 versal favourite, being cultivated as a pot-plant in 
 nearly every cottage window. It is perfectly hardy, 
 and is easily propagated by potting pieces of the 
 roots in the spring. It is a fresh - looking little 
 plant, and droops gracefully from the edge of a 
 basket, or from a bracket. When growing it requires 
 a plentiful supply of water at the root. During 
 summer it is studded with numerous bright yellow 
 flowers ; but is principally grown for its grateful 
 perfume, one small plant being amply sufficient to 
 scent a large apartment. The best way to keep up a 
 stock is to plant a root or two in a moist, sandy 
 border, from which roots can be dug each season for 
 pot-culture. Columbia. 
 
 MUSCARI BOTRYOIDES {Grape Hyacinth). — This is 
 a lovely little blue-flowered bulb from Italy, often met 
 with in herbaceous borders, growing six inches or 
 more in height. There are about half-a-dozen other 
 species, all of Vhich may be grown in pots plunged 
 Sn the border outside, and only removed indoors when 
 
312 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 flowering. This is the best mode of treating all hardy 
 bulbs when required for window or drawing-room de- 
 
 Muscari botryoides. 
 
 Muscari monsirosum. 
 
 coration, as the flowers keep fresh and beautiful so 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 313 
 
 very much longer than when cut or torn from the 
 plants, and mixed up with other flowers, until much 
 of their beauty and individuality is lost. 
 
 MUTISIA DECURRENS {Gazania-flowered M.)—A 
 slender, climbing, composite plant, with glaucous 
 tapering leaves, each having a tendril (like a Vine 
 or Pea) at its apex. The flowers remind one of 
 Gazanias, being of a bright orange-yellow, with a 
 dark centre. It is perfectly hardy on a sunny wall 
 in sheltered localties. I allude to it here because I 
 have several times seen it growing and flowering well 
 near London. Cuttings or imported seeds. M. ilici- 
 folia (Holly-leaved) is rare, having pale, rosy eight- 
 rayed flowers and spinose leaves cirrhose at the apex, 
 like the last named. S. America. 
 
 MyopoRUM album [Crystal-leaved M.) — This ele- 
 gant flowering-shrub is well worthy of more general 
 cultivation for decorative purposes than it receives, as 
 it is free in habit and easily grown. It can be pro- 
 pagated by means of cuttings made of the young 
 wood, as readily as a Geranium, or even more so, for 
 branches torn from the plant, and thrown carelessly 
 on damp sand or soil, root freely in a week or two, 
 and go on flowering as if nothing had happened to 
 them. The plant grows from 12 to 18 inches high, 
 having a central stem, from which the branches fall 
 gracefully on all sides. Both branches and foliage 
 are of a deep green colour, studded with translucent 
 tubercles, smaller, but not much unlike those of the 
 Ice-plant (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum). The 
 flowers are borne in axillary clusters, and are some- 
 thing like those of a small-flowered Eriostemon ; they 
 are pure white in colour, and slightly scented. The 
 plant is grown extensively in France for the Parisian 
 flower-markets, where it may be seen in abundance. 
 It is not only a most profuse bloomer and elegant in 
 
314 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 habit, but it lasts in beauty for two or three months 
 together during the summer time, and it majj be easily 
 cultivated in perfection in a cool frame, or in the sit- 
 ting-room window. Any soil seems to suit it ; but a 
 compost of fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and coarse sand 
 is preferable to any other. Cuttings struck in April 
 will make fine little plants for next summer's flower- 
 ing. N. S. Wales. 
 
 Myosotis alpestris {Alpine Forget-me-not). — 
 This is a pretty species from Switzerland, and is 
 easily propagated by sowing a pinch or two of seed 
 in the window-boxes as soon as ripe, or in the spring. 
 There are several species well worth cultivation as 
 balcony or Window plants, but the best of all for pot- 
 culture is the lovely blue M. dissitiflora, which flowers 
 most profusely during the spring and early summer 
 months. Like the other species, it is easily propa- 
 gated from either seeds or cuttings, or by division. 
 There are white-flowered varieties of both the last- 
 named species. They are very useful for spring 
 bedding, or for borders, lasting in bloom — a glorious 
 sheet of soft sky-blue — for weeks together. 
 
 Myrtus communis [Common Mj/rt/e).— This is a 
 clean and fresh-looking aromatic shrub, well adapted 
 for window or balcony culture. There is also a 
 narrow-leaved kind well worth growing for variety. 
 They are best grown in small pots in sandy loam, 
 and are easily propagated by cuttings taken off" in 
 the spring. Its branches come in useful for arrang- 
 ing among cut flowers ; and it is a nice addition to 
 sweet-scented plants. South of Europe. 
 
 Myrsiphyllum asparagoides {i/ie Creeping 
 Myrtle).— yix J. Vick, than whom there is no better 
 authority, gives the following directions for the house- 
 hold culture of this plant, now so much used in floral 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 3IS 
 
 decorations, for twining in the hair, and for trimming 
 party dresses : " With a little care it can be grown 
 successfully as a house plant. The seeds should be 
 sown in a box or in pots in the house, and should be 
 kept moist till the young plants appear. The seed 
 being rather slow to germinate, you must not think it 
 bad if it does not make its appearance in two or three 
 weeks. The young plants should be potted off into 
 
 Myrsiphyllum asparagoides. - 
 
 3-inch pots as soon as they are three or four inches 
 high. Once a-year the bulbs should be allowed to 
 dry off and rest. They will start into growth again 
 in about six weeks. The plant does not require the 
 full sun, but will grow well in a partially-shaded situa- 
 tion. It can be trained on a small thread across the 
 
3i6 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE, 
 
 window, or around pictures. It is a climber, and will 
 attach itself to a string in just about the right condi- 
 tion to use for wreaths, &c., or, when required for 
 lighter work, the branches which become entangled 
 can be separated." This plant, perhaps the most 
 universally employed of all foliage-plants by the 
 American florists, is generally most tastefully used. 
 It is of easy culture in the greenhouse or window- 
 garden, while it actually luxuriates in a window con- 
 servatory or Wardian case. South America. 
 
 Narcissus {Daffodils). — This genus of hardy bulbs 
 comprises many beautiful species, most of which were 
 
 better known by 
 Parkinson 200 
 years ago than 
 they are now. 
 They are well 
 adapted for win- 
 dow or balcony 
 decoration during 
 spring, and are 
 best grown as re- 
 commended for 
 Colchicums and 
 other hardy bulbs, 
 i. e., plunged in the 
 open border. Bulbs 
 or roots may be 
 purchased in the autumn, and should be potted and 
 treated like Hyacinths in pots. They are well-known 
 border bulbs ; and the commoner species, as N. pseudo- 
 narcissus, N. poeticus, or Pheasant's Eye, N. inter- 
 medius, and other varieties, are often met with natu- 
 ralised in old country gardens and orchards. N. bul- 
 bocodium, or Hooped Petticoat Narcissus, is one of 
 
 Hooped Petticoat Narcissus. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 317 
 
 the prettiest, and does well in pots. Some varieties 
 of the genus, with several small flowers on a stem, are 
 generally known as "jonquils." Mostly European. 
 
 Nasturtium— j^^ Trop^olum. 
 
 Nemophila INSIGNIS {Carulean Blue N'.)—A well- 
 known dwarf-growing annual, bearing beautiful sky- 
 blue flowers with white centres. Like all the other 
 varieties, it is easily raised from spring- sown seed, 
 and may be grown either in pots or balcony-boxes. 
 There are several varieties of both this species and 
 N. maculata all worth culture. California. 
 
 Nerium splendens (Oleander).— K well-known 
 plant, long cultivated in our gardens and windows. 
 There are now white, yellow, and many varieties of the 
 old rosy-flowered kind. It grows very freely in sandy 
 loam and leaf-mould, and should have as much bright 
 sunshine upon it in the summer and autumn as pos- 
 sible, so as to thoroughly ripen its growth. So treated, 
 it blooms freely all through the summer. It may be 
 seen outside nearly every caf^ in Paris, and grows 
 freely on the balcony here at home. It is readily 
 propagated by cuttings of the young wood, which 
 strike root very readily in small phials of water or 
 wet sand. They also strike in the ordinary way, in- 
 serted round the margin of a pot. Palestine, or the 
 Holy Land. 
 
 Nertera DEPRESSA {Scarlet-berried Duckweed). — 
 One of the prettiest and most interesting of all plants 
 for a window or glass shade, and perfectly hardy in 
 warm, sheltered positions. It resembles a little dwarf 
 moss, and creeps over the surface of the pot or pan 
 in which it is grown. It bears very minute whitish 
 flowers in the axils of the little round leaves, and 
 these are succeeded by a crop of bright orange-scarlet 
 or coral-coloured berries the size of small peas. It 
 
3l8 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 is readily propagated by dividing old plants and 
 pricking small-rooted pieces into a light compost of 
 peat, fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and sand. Although 
 it will grow in the open window, it looks prettier in 
 a small pot or pan beneath a crystal shade or case. 
 Keep always moist. Europe. 
 
 Nephrodium molle {Free-growing N.) — A com- 
 mon Fern, of erect habit, not unlike the common 
 Lastraea in general appearance. It makes a good 
 plant for the centre of a Wardian case, but will also 
 grow freely in the open window, if kept moist by 
 occasional syringings. It is of a fresh green colour, 
 and varies from one to two feet in height. It is one 
 of the commonest of tropical species, being found 
 nearly all over the world. Division. 
 
 Nephrolepis tuberosa {Tuberous-rooted N.) — 
 An erect-habited Fern from Jamaica, which looks 
 very pretty in a Wardian case. Its fronds are nearly 
 two feet long when full grown, and about two inches 
 wide. The leaflets {pinncB) are about an inch long 
 and closely arranged up each side the stem (rachis). 
 Another species, N. pectinata, is of smaller habit, and 
 even more elegant appearance ; but unless kept regu- 
 larly moist, it is apt to turn yellow and lose its leaf- 
 lets. Division. 
 
 Nerine Fothergillii {Scarlet-flowered N) — A 
 very beautiful free-flowering old bulbous plant, well 
 worth culture. It bears its flowers in clusters, and 
 the segments are recurved and slighty undulate 
 (wavy) along their margins. It loses its leaves dur- 
 ing part of the year, and may then be kept nearly 
 dry at the root, and allowed to rest until it pushes 
 its flowers in the autumn or spring. Pot in sandy 
 loam and a little leaf-mould. Many other beautiful 
 species are worth growing, as N. undulata, N. humilis, 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 319 
 
 and several others. Division of the bulbs. Cape of 
 Good Hope. (See also Amaryllis.) 
 
 NicOTlANA VIRGINICA [Common Tobacco-plant).— 
 This is a large-leaved and very ornamental plant for 
 beds or borders during the hot summer months. It 
 does best treated as a tender annual, and raised from 
 
 The Tobacco-plant (Nicotiana virgimca). 
 
 seeds sown in a gentle heat about March or April. 
 The seedlings should be pricked off into boxes or 
 shallow pans, and will make strong little plants if 
 gradually hardened off before they are placed outside 
 in May, or after all danger from frost is past. It 
 
320 DESCRirXIVE. 
 
 makes an effective plant for the balcony, grown either 
 in a pot or a small tub, and plentifully supplied with 
 water, and occasional doses of liquid manure. It 
 bears numerous rosy - purple flowers towards the 
 autumn, and is always interesting, more especially 
 to lovers of the "weed." Our illustration gives an 
 excellent idea of the general contour or port as- 
 sumed by a good specimen. It should be placed 
 in a sheltered situation, or it may suffer from cold 
 or rough winds. It is largely cultivated in America. 
 
 N. RUSTICA. — This is a dwarf- habited, green - 
 flowered species, and furnishes the Turkish or Latakia 
 tobacco of commerce. 
 
 NiEREMBERGiA GRACILIS {Slender -growing N) — 
 A very elegant little plant well adapted for pot-culture, 
 flowering freely throughout the summer and autumn. 
 It is easily propagated from seeds, and can be grown 
 as a perennial if sheltered in the window during winter. 
 It may also be grown as a half-hardy annual in the 
 open border. For hanging-baskets it is very graceful, 
 bearing a profusion of its pale bell or salver shaped 
 flowers. N. rivularis is another handsome species 
 with larger flowers. Seed. S. America. 
 
 NiPHOBOLUS LINGUA {Tongue -like N.)—A half- 
 hardy Fern with lance -shaped leathery dark -green 
 foliage, produced from a creeping root. It grows 
 well on pieces of " Virgin cork " . partly covered with 
 moss. There is a beautiful crested form also well 
 worth growing. Division. Japan. 
 
 NUPHAR LUTEA {Yellow Water -Lily). — A well- 
 known British aquatic, often met with in ponds 
 and ditches. Easily grown in a small tank in the 
 garden. 
 
 Nymphcea alba ( White Water-Lily). — One of the 
 prettiest of our native wildings, and common in ponds. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 321 
 
 canals, and ditches, especially in the south and west 
 of England. Easily grown by introducing roots into 
 a tank or pond during the winter or spring months. 
 Leaves large, heart-shaped ; flowers pure white with 
 a yellow eye. Very useful for drawing-room vases or 
 for table decorations arranged with its own deep green 
 leathery foliage. 
 
 Odontoglossum Alexandra {Princess of Wales' 
 O.) — This fine species, and many others in the genus. 
 
 Odontoglossum Alexandra {plant). Odontoglossum Alexandra (flower). 
 
 may be grown with careful management in a Wardian 
 case. It does not require much heat, a mean winter 
 temperature of 45° being amply sufficient, but the 
 atmosphere must be kept fresh and constantly humid. 
 During summer they should be carefully shaded from 
 bright sunshine, and the temperature kept as near 60° 
 during the day-time as possible. The pot in which 
 the plant is grown should be prepared as recom- 
 
 X 
 
322 DPSCRIPTIVE. 
 
 mended for cuttings (see "Propagation"); and the com- 
 post best suited to this and the other Orchids men- 
 tioned in the list is composed of fibrous peat and coarse 
 well-washed sand, to which may be added a very 
 little leaf-mould. The surface of the pot should be 
 coated with fresh living sphagnum moss, and this 
 must be induced to grow as fresh and green as 
 possible. Orchids are rarely unhealthy when the 
 moss grows freely on the pots in which they are 
 planted. In potting, keep the bulbs above the rim 
 of the pot. To do this the compost must be ele- 
 vated in the form of a rounded cone. All the Orchids 
 named in our list will grow and flower in a close case, 
 but the cultivator should not attempt their culture 
 until he has had experience with commoner and less 
 valuable plants. Never allow them to get dry, and keep 
 them clean by sponging. South America (Bogota), 
 6000 to 8000 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 Oncidium flexuosum {Free -flowering C.)— This 
 and its ally O. obryzatum may be grown as recom- 
 mended under Odontoglossum. S. America. 
 
 Onoclea sensibilis {Sensitive Fern). — A strong- 
 growing hardy Fern that does well in pots, but it 
 likes both shade and moisture. Its leaves (fronds) 
 are deeply lobed and very bold and ornamental in 
 character. Division. Virginia. 
 
 Opuntia RafinesQuiana {Fig Cactus). — This is a 
 fine free-blooming species from Texas, suitable either 
 for window-culture or for naturalising on low walls, it 
 being perfectly hardy in warm sheltered localities 
 and on dry sandy soils. Its flowers are of a pale-yellow 
 colour, and are succeeded by gooseberry-like fruits, 
 which are edible and of a peculiar sub-acid flavour. 
 Opuntia Rafinesquiana has flowered for the last four 
 years in Kent, and also in the garden of Harrison Weir, 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 323 
 
 Esq., the celebrated animal painter. It is nearly re- 
 lated to if not identical with O. vulgaris {Common Fig 
 Cactus). Pot in sandy soil. All the species strike 
 freely from cuttings or joints taken off in the spring 
 or summer and inserted in well-drained pots of sand. 
 
 Opintia Rafinesquiana. 
 
 There are several other 'Species well adapted for in- 
 door window -culture, the best being O. cylindrica 
 {Candle-like 0.), and the pretty O. microdasys, a small 
 grower covered with dense tufts of pale-yellow spines. 
 For other species see list. Care must be taken in 
 handling Opuntias, and especially the last-named 
 species, as the short spines are easily detached, and 
 will work their way into the flesh with wonderful 
 facility, often proving exceedingly unpleasant and 
 irritating to the unwary cultivator. I speak feelingly 
 on this subject, having myself paid the penalty of 
 ignorance by a little wholesome experience. Opuntia 
 cochinellifera is interesting from an economic point of 
 view as being the food-plant of the cochineal insect, 
 from which a beautiful crimson colouring matter is 
 
324 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 obtained and much used in cookery and the arts. It 
 is as well to bear in mind the fact that all Cacti are 
 American, with the exception of one African Rhipsalis. 
 
 Orchis {Common Hardy Orchids). — Many of the 
 British and Continental species of this group are 
 highly interesting when grown in pots of moist sandy 
 earth. They may be taken up with balls of earth to 
 their roots (tubers), just when they are starting into 
 growth in the spring, and if carefully potted will ex- 
 perience little or no check. Cover the surface of the 
 soil with a thick layer of living sphagnum and keep 
 them constantly moist. They should be shaded from 
 the bright sun during the daytime, and always do best 
 in a cool, moist, and shady position out of doors, but 
 can be removed to the window, or placed under a 
 shade on the table while flowering. O. mascula 
 (purple), O. pyramidalis (lilac spotted with purple), O. 
 morio (purple or white with green-veined wings), and 
 O. maculata (purple), are commonly met with in our 
 woods or damp meadows, and flower about April or 
 May. Some of the species from the south of Europe 
 are very beautiful when in bloom. In addition to 
 these we have Listerias, Habenaria bifolia {Common 
 Butterfly Orchis), bearing erect spikes of perfumed 
 white flowers in May and June ; and on the chalk hills 
 of Kent and Surrey several beautiful species of Ophrys 
 are found. These last have some resemblance to the 
 insects after which they are named. O. muscifera 
 {Fly Ophrys), O. apifera {Bee Ophrys), and O. aranifera 
 {Spider Ophrys), are the most common. 
 
 OXALIS FLORIBUNDA {Free - flowering 0) — This 
 and several other tuberous-rooted species are very 
 pretty for window decoration. They are mostly 
 dwarf plants with ternate or three-lobed leaves like 
 clover {Trifolium), and solitary or clustered rose, 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 325 
 
 purple, or yellow flowers. These plants are curious 
 and of botanical interest, the seed - vessels bursting 
 with elasticity something like those of the Balsams 
 {Impatiens). The common Wood Oxalis is supposed 
 to be the true Shamrock, and its leaflets are slightly 
 sensitive during bright sunny weather. O. corniculata 
 
 Oxalis valdiviana. 
 
 rubra is a dense coppery-leaved species often found 
 naturalised in gardens, and bears small star-like yellow 
 flowers. O. Bowieana, O. elegans, O. rosea, O. lutea, 
 and O. valdiviana, are worth growing for variety. 
 Division or seed. South America and the Cape of 
 Good Hope. 
 
 Palms. — Those species named in our list may be 
 made available for the decoration of rooms and win- 
 dows, and are for the most part distinct and graceful 
 in habit. The best soil for Palms is simply a mixture 
 of good fibrous loam and sand on a well-drained 
 bottom. During the summer months they may be 
 watered freely, all the Palms being lovers of moisture, 
 growing as they do in some countries by the sides of 
 streams and other damp places, like our alders and 
 willows at home. Their foliage should be kept clean 
 
326 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 and fresh by occasional sponging with clean tepid 
 water. 
 
 Our figure represents a robust-growing Palm for 
 
 
 
 Phienix syhiestris as a Vase-plant. 
 
 room culture. It is planted in an Italian basket, 
 neatly margined with Isolepis gracilis. 
 
 Panicum variegatum {Creeping P) — One of the 
 prettiest of ornamental Grasses for indoor basket or 
 bracket culture. It grows freely in any light well- 
 drained compost if regularly watered. Its foliage is 
 lance-shaped, with gracefully-waved margins, and is 
 striped with creamy white and tinted with pink if 
 grown in a sunny aspect. It is easily propagated by 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 327 
 
 cuttings, which root freely, or the slender growths may- 
 be pegged down on the basket and taken off when 
 rooted. 
 
 Pansy {Heart' s-ease) — see Viola. 
 
 Passiflora ccerulea {Blue Passion-flower). — 
 This is a pretty, free-flowering, hardy climber in the 
 south of England, and grows well planted in a warm 
 border under a south wall. Its flowers and wreaths 
 of foliage are useful in floral decorations. Layers. 
 Brazil. 
 
 Petunia VIOLACEA {Purple-flowered P.) — Some 
 of the numerous hybrid varieties of this plant are well 
 worth growing in hanging baskets during summer. 
 The single varieties are easily raised from seeds sown 
 in a little heat during March, and will make nice 
 plants for setting out in the balcony boxes or baskets 
 in May or June, where they will produce their sweet- 
 scented purple or white flowers very freely. The 
 double-flowered varieties are reproduced from cut- 
 tings of the young wood, which soon strike root in 
 the genial heat, of a little propagating case. Buenos 
 Ayres. 
 
 Phlox Drummondii {Drummond's Annual P^ — 
 Treated as a half-hardy annual, this plant comes in 
 very handy either for baskets, borders, or window- 
 boxes. There are numerous varieties contained in 
 every packet of seed, and they grow and flower very 
 freely from June to October. Texas. 
 
 Physalis alkekengi {Globe -fruited P.) — This 
 plant is nearly related to the Solanums, to which the 
 common potato also belongs, and is chiefly remarkable 
 for its fruit, which is of a bright orange colour, and 
 enclosed in an inflated capsule or bladder-hke cover- 
 ing. These are very pretty when skeletonised, and 
 should be added to every collection of leaves and 
 
328 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 seed-vessels. P. EDULIS {Cape Gooseberry) is some- 
 times grown in gardens for its fruits. Both are easily- 
 raised from seed 
 treated as half- 
 hardy annuals. 
 Cape of Good 
 Hope. 
 
 Platycerium 
 
 ALCICORNEC^/a/j- 
 horn Fern). — This 
 is one of the most 
 distinct of all Ferns, . 
 and grows well in 
 a close case either 
 fastened to a flat 
 piece of board cov- 
 ered with sphag- 
 num, or in a pot 
 of fibrous peat and 
 sand. If grown 
 on a block it requires to be syringed or sprinkled 
 at least once a-day in summer, so as to keep the 
 moss and wood constantly moist. There are two 
 or three other kinds worth culture, and they are 
 much hardier than is generally supposed. P. bi- 
 forme, P. grande, and P. stemmaria vary in habit, 
 but are all distinct. Propagated either from spores 
 or offsets, the latter being often produced, especially 
 by P. alcicorne and P. stemmaria. New S. Wales, 
 Guinea, and Moreton Bay. 
 
 Pleione lagenaria {Indian Crocus). — A lovely 
 little Orchid from the north of India, peculiar in habit 
 but bearing very beautiful flowers. Its bulbs are 
 dark-green, covered with little warts, and bear lance- 
 shaped leaves of a light-green colour, and nearly a 
 
 Phy sails alkekengi. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 329 
 
 foot in length during summer. They flower after the 
 leaves fall off in the autumn. The flowers are of a 
 lovely pale rose-colour, the lip being white, blotched 
 with clear sulphur-yellow and crimson. P. Wallichii 
 and P. maculata may also be grown. All require to 
 be treated as recommended under Odontoglossum. 
 Most persons fail to grow these and many other 
 beautiful cool Orchids simply because they allow 
 them to get too hot in summer. In my ' Cool Or- 
 chids and How to Grow Them,' the amateur will 
 find simple and practical directions for the treatment 
 of these mountain gems. N. India. 
 
 Plumbago capensis {Blue Leadwort). — A lovely 
 blue-flowered climber, or rather trailing-plant, often 
 grown in hot plant-stoves, but adaptable for window- 
 culture. It grows very freely in a sheltered position 
 during summer as a balcony plant, and bears its sky- 
 blue flowers in great clusters and in tolerable abund- 
 ance. It is easily propagated from spring cuttings, 
 and deserves general culture in windows. There is a 
 deep rosy-flowered variety (P. rosea), but it appears 
 to require more heat in order to cultivate it success- 
 fully. China and Japan. 
 
 Polygonatum multiflorum {Solomon's Seal). 
 — This is one of the most elegant of all our native 
 plants, and does admirably in pots, either for the 
 window or balcony culture. It is nearly related to 
 the Lily of the Valley, and also grows freely in a 
 damp, shady border, well-established clumps coming 
 in very useful for spring forcing. It has a graceful 
 habit>f growth, and varies in height from eighteen 
 inches to two feet. When once planted it soon extends 
 itself, and a clump or two should find a place in every 
 garden, however small. It is readily propagated by 
 division. Britain. 
 
330 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Primula {Primroses). — We have here a large genus 
 of beautiful herbaceous plants, all more or less hardy, 
 and well adapted for culture in pots. The varieties 
 of our common British species (P. vulgaris) are best 
 grown in pots in the open border, or plunged in a 
 layer of ashes in the cold frame ; and many of them 
 are very beautiful early spring-flowering plants. The 
 florist's section (Polyanthus) contains many fine varie- 
 ties, all perfectly hardy. The Chinese Primula (P. 
 Sinensis) is a well-known indoor decorative plant, 
 raised from autumn or early spring sown seeds, which 
 can be grown in a cool moist frame during the sum- 
 mer, and flowers freely in the spring. P. Japonica is 
 nearly hardy, and bears crimson, purple, or magenta 
 coloured flowers as large as a shilling, in whorls or 
 rings, the flower-stems being 12 to 18 inches high. It 
 may be grown in a cool, moist frame, or placed out- 
 side during the summer and 
 autumn. P. cortusoides amoena 
 is perhaps the best of the early 
 summer - flowering kinds, and 
 grows well plunged in a frame 
 outside, bearing bright rosy- 
 purple flowers on slender hairy 
 stems a foot high. Auriculas (P. 
 auricula) grow well in pots, hav- 
 ing white powdered leaves, and 
 clusters of purple, yellow, or 
 rosy flowers, on stems 6 inches 
 in height. All the species are 
 propagated either by seeds or 
 division. Mostly European. 
 Pteris CRETICA. — A correspondent of the 'Gar- 
 den ' writes : " I find the different varieties of Pteris 
 succeed in windows. P. tremula does admirably with 
 
 Primula cortusoides. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 331 
 
 me, as does also P. serrulata ; but best of all P. cretica 
 albo-lineata, which produces plenty of healthy fronds, 
 even under very ordinary treatment. Though not a 
 Fern, I may mention that I have a large bell-glass 
 full of the toothed Lycopod, which looks as green and 
 healthy as possible, though the glass is never re- 
 
 Pteris crttica albo-lineata. 
 
 moved, and all the water it gets is what runs down 
 between the glass and the rim of the pan. The great 
 secret of success with such things is thorough drain- 
 age, which should be sufficient to keep the roots 
 well above all stagnant water." 
 
 P. TREMULA {Graceful window -Fern). — One of 
 the commonest, most vigorous, and at the same 
 time most beautiful of all Ferns for window-culture or 
 the Wardian case. It produces great triangular finely- 
 divided fronds (the leaves of all Ferns are called 
 
332 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 fronds), of the freshest and brightest green tint ima- 
 ginable ; and when cut, these last much longer than 
 the generality of Ferns, especially if removed from the 
 vase and dipped in fresh wkter every morning. The 
 spores — i.e., brown dust-like bodies found beneath 
 nearly all Fern-fronds — of this species grow very 
 readily, so that there is generally an abundant supply 
 of young plants springing up on the soil or moss at 
 the bottom of the case. Like other species, it likes 
 a fresh, open, peaty compost, well drained, and an 
 abundant supply of moisture, both at the root and in 
 the atmosphere when growing. This is one of the 
 most graceful of all ferns for dinner-table decoration. 
 (See fig. p. 136.) 
 
 Pyrethrum parthenifolium aureum {Golden 
 Feather). — A free-growing, hardy plant, much used 
 for carpet beds and edgings. It is pretty for edging 
 window-boxes, and should be pinched to keep it 
 dwarf All flower-buds should be picked off as they 
 appear. Sow seed in a gentle heat in March. They 
 grow very fast, and will be ready for planting out 
 where required in May or June. Caucasus. 
 
 Reineckea carnea {Flesh-coloured R.) — This 
 plant is well worth growing in a pot for indoor win- 
 dow decoration. It has gracefully-curved fresh green 
 foliage, and short spikes of flesh-coloured or rosy 
 flowers. R. carnea variegata is striped with creamy 
 white or yellow, and deserves general cultivation as 
 one of the best of evergreen plants for the decora- 
 tion of the sitting-room. It grows well in any mo- 
 derately rich, sandy soil, and is easily propagated 
 by division, offsets being very freely produced. S. 
 America. 
 
 Rhapis flabelliformis {Fan-leaved R.)—A very 
 pretty miniature Palm, well adapted for the decora- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 333 
 
 tion of rooms. It is of a hardy nature, and grows 
 well in a compost of fibrous loam and sand. It must 
 have plenty of water when growing. Division. China. 
 
 Rhododendron ponticum {Purple-flowered R) 
 — Some of the varieties of this species, and those of 
 R. Catawbiense, are very beautiful free-flowering 
 shrubs, with leathery foliage, and specially attractive 
 during the spring and early summer when in bloom. 
 They are well adapted for balcony-culture, being 
 perfectly hardy. Pot them in ^ peat and ]A, loam 
 and sand. They should be well drained, and require 
 to be kept moist and cool at the roots. Layers, or 
 grafting on stocks of the common varieties. Gibraltar. 
 
 Rhus COTINUS ( Venetian Sumach). — A hardy 
 European shrub, having very elegant pinnate or lobed 
 leaves at the summit of its slender stem or branches. 
 It is an effective plant during summer for planting, 
 either in a small tub for the balcony, or out on the 
 grass plot. R. glabra, and its elegant variety, " laci- 
 niata," are amongst the most beautiful of hardy 
 foliage-plants. Several other varieties, as R. suave- 
 olens, R. toxicodendron (poisonous), R. typhina, and 
 R. vernix, are well worth outdoor culture. 
 
 Rhus SUCCEDANEA {Wax-plant). — Highly orna- 
 mental for pot-culture, and well adapted for growing 
 in windows or conservatories. Plants raised from 
 seed, and the central shoots not injured, will form 
 perpetual ornaments for such positions, producing at 
 the top of the stem each year a fresh circle of its 
 elegantly drooping leaves, having the appearance of a 
 miniature Palm. All should try this, as it may be 
 cultivated in any room. China. 
 
 RhyncOSPERMUM JASMINOIDES {Jasmine-flowered 
 j^\ This is a plant often cultivated in a hot plant- 
 stove, but it grows and flowers well as a window- 
 
334 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 plant with careful treatment. It has dark, glossy, 
 lance-shaped foliage, and clusters of deliciously per- 
 fumed white flowers, very useful for bouquets, button- 
 holes, and dinner-table decorations. Keep it moist at 
 the root, and syringe occasionally to remove dust. 
 Cuttings root freely in bottom-heat. China. 
 
 RiBES SANGUINEUM {Red -flowering Currant). — 
 This is a charming hardy shrub, that does well in the 
 vicinity of towns, and is highly ornamental when 
 covered with showers of rosy blossoms and fresh green 
 foliage during the spring and early summer months. 
 It grows freely in any ordinary garden-soil, and 
 flowers a week earlier trained on a sunny wall. 
 Branches of this plant when in bloom are useful for 
 cutting for ordinary purposes of decoration. There 
 
 are white and crimson 
 flowered varieties, all 
 easily propagated by 
 cuttings, suckers, or 
 layers. N. America. 
 
 RiCHARDIA (CALLA) 
 /ETHIOPICA ( White 
 Trumpet- L ily). — A 
 truly noble plant of 
 classic beauty when 
 well grown. It has 
 tuberous roots, large 
 hastate bright green 
 leaves, and bears 
 flowers of snowy white- 
 ness during the autumn 
 and spring. It does 
 well as a sub-aquatic with its roots plunged in water, 
 and should always be potted in very rich soil, or else 
 liberally supplied with stimulants. Its flowers are 
 
 Richardia (calla) athiopica. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 335 
 
 effective for vases or church decorations. As a win- 
 dow-plant it is both effective and distinct, and may be 
 grown with but little trouble. There is a form with 
 white spots on the leaves which may be grown for 
 variety. Mr D. G. Mitchell of Great Marlow thus 
 testifies to the hardiness of this plant : " In the 
 spring of 1872 I planted two large plants of this 
 in a pond, where they now remain, and they have 
 flowered profusely during the summer, and I may 
 mention that they were frozen over several times. 
 The pond is about three feet deep in winter, and 
 about a foot deep in summer; they were planted 
 rather at the side than in the middle : they were 
 grown in large pots previously to being planted out, 
 and were merely turned out of the pots into the 
 water." Division. Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Rosa (Roses). — Well-known hardy-flowering spring 
 shrubs, grown in every garden, and admired through- 
 out Europe and the East. Many of the tea-scented 
 kinds are largely grown for their half-opened buds, 
 which are unsurpassed for beauty and sweetness, and 
 are much used in Europe and America for bouquets 
 and button-holes all the year round. Tea-Roses, 
 Fairy Roses, and many dwarf-growing Hybrid Per- 
 petuals, are well worth pot-culture, and bloom well 
 throughout the year. For training up walls, pillars, 
 balconies, or rustic trellises. Climbing Devoniensis 
 and the Noisette and Banksian Roses are unsurpassed, 
 blooming all through the summer and autumn months. 
 Roses can be grown in pots plunged in ashes or in the 
 border outside, and should be pruned in closely about 
 January, leaving only two or three eyes on the last 
 year's growth. The closer Roses are pruned the 
 stronger they grow, therefore cut in your weakest 
 plants more than the strong ones. If a Rose grows all 
 
336 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 to wood and does not flower satisfactorily, leave its 
 last year's growth, only just shortening it a little at 
 the tips of the shoots. Plant them in good strong 
 loam and well-rotted manure, and water them with 
 all the slops during summer. Many Roses strike from 
 cuttings, but are generally budded at the nurseries. 
 The old-fashioned " crimson -flowered China Rose" 
 is an excellent perpetual-flowering plant for a window, 
 and should be obtained. The little " Fairy Rose " 
 also flowers freely in the spring, and is a compact 
 little plant for pot-culture in rooms or windows. 
 
 Salvia splendens {Scarlet -flowered S.) — This 
 is an excellent window-plant for winter flowering. 
 Strike cuttings in March. Pot them in " forty-eight " 
 pots, and keep them in a light airy place until the 
 middle of May, at which time plunge them in a 
 sheltered border. Protect them at first with inverted 
 flower-pots, and keep them well watered. Pinch their 
 shoots once or twice during the summer to make them 
 bushy, and remove them indoors towards the end of 
 September. In a warm sunny window they flower 
 very freely, and their bright scarlet blossoms are very 
 eff'ective when seen along with the fresh foliage of 
 Ferns and Acacias. S. Heeri, S. gesneraeflora, and 
 one or two other species all do well under this treat- 
 ment, and make healthier and stronger plants then 
 when grown indoors. Mexico. 
 
 Santolina incana {Silvery S.) — A dense-growing 
 plant only two or three inches high, and well adapted 
 for edging window-boxes during summer. Planted 
 alternately with blue Lobelia it is very eff"ective, and 
 also contrasts well with the crimson Alternantheras. 
 It strikes freely from cuttings under a hand-light or 
 in a cold frame, and is nearly hardy. Europe. 
 
 Saponaria CALABRICA {Rosy Soapwori).—A pretty 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 337 
 
 rosy-flowered annual easily raised from seeds sown 
 in April or May ; or if seeds are sown during the 
 autumn as soon as ripe, it flowers during the fol- 
 lowing spring and summer. It does best on warm 
 sandy soils, where it soon becomes naturalised, and 
 it is very pretty either on rockeries or in window- 
 boxes. There is a white variety which flowers at the 
 same time. Calabria. 
 
 Senecio PURPUREA. — This is a showy annual easily 
 raised from spring-sown seeds. It is hardy and grows 
 very freely in the borders outside, having bright green 
 foliage and showy purple flowers. It is a first-class 
 plant for a hanging-basket, and deserves to be grown 
 as freely as Musk. Europe. 
 
 S. (cacalia) mikanoides {German Ivy). — This 
 is a quick-growing window-plant, not often met with 
 in this country, although common enough in America. 
 It has bright glossy foliage not unlike the common 
 Ivy, and dense clusters of yellow flowers. These last 
 are, however, but seldom produced, if the plant is 
 potted in light rich soil, and allowed to ramble away 
 freely. It is useful for hanging-baskets or for training 
 around the window-trellis. Cuttings root very freely 
 in the spring, every joint forming a plant, and it 
 grows very quickly in the atmosphere of the sitting- 
 room. It is best used for covering leafy screens. 
 Cape of Good Hope. Several other scandent Senecios, 
 as S. tropaeoloides, S. oxyrisfolius, and others, are 
 all worth culture as basket or bracket plants in the 
 window or Wardian case. 
 
 Sarracenia purpurea {American Pitcher-plant), 
 
 This is often called the " Huntsman's Cup," from 
 
 its leaf-stalks being hollow and inflated like a goblet. 
 Its cups or pitchers are green, marked and veined 
 with purple, and the plant is very curious and interest- 
 
 Y 
 
338 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 ing when well grown. There are half-a-dozen varieties, 
 and all may be grown in peat and living sphagnum in 
 
 a humid Wardian case. 
 They require a cool, moist 
 atmosphere, and porous 
 compost, through which 
 all superfluous water speed- 
 ily passes away. Like 
 the true Pitcher - plants 
 {Nepenthes), these plants 
 seem to possess some at- 
 traction for the flies, large 
 quantities being found 
 drowned at the bottom of 
 the old pitchers. Pot them 
 like Orchids and Cepha- 
 lotus. Division. All N. 
 American, growing in 
 marshes and bogs. 
 
 Saxifraga {Saxifrages). 
 
 Sarraceniaflava. _^j^jg j^ ^ j^^^^ ^^^^^ 
 
 scattered over many parts of the world. They are 
 mostly dense - growing succulent plants used for 
 carpeting flower-beds, rockeries, and window-boxes. 
 There are twenty or thirty species common in gardens, 
 some being very beautiful, when closely examined. 
 S. caespitosa, S. carpatica, S. ciliata, S. cordifolia, S. 
 Crustacea, S. densa, S. hirta, S. intacta, S. longifolia, 
 S. pyramidalis, and many others, will be found very 
 easy to cultivate in any ordinary sandy soil. Divisioni 
 ' S. sarmentosa, S. Fortunei, and its pink variegated 
 variety, make excellent basket - plants. The first- 
 named is the " Sailor-plant " of cottage windows. 
 
 SCHIZOSTYLIS COCCINEA {Winter-flowering S.) — 
 In habit this plant resembles a small-growing scarlet- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 339 
 
 flowered Gladiolus, and blooms freely in November 
 and December when planted out in a sunny position 
 on a warm sandy border. For pot-culture it is ad- 
 mirably adapted, as 
 its flowers and fresh 
 green foliage look 
 much cleaner if shel- 
 tered either in a win- 
 dow or cool frame. 
 It is one of the finest 
 of all hardy winter- 
 blooming plants for 
 the decoration of the 
 greenhouse, and con- 
 tinues in flower for 
 a considerable time, 
 its spikes of bright- 
 coloured flowers com- 
 ing in very handy 
 for dinner-table deco- 
 
 Schizostylis coccinea. 
 
 rations or for the drawing-room vases. Pot the roots 
 firmly in fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and coarse sand, 
 and give plenty of water when growing. Our en- 
 graving gives an excellent idea of the plant on a 
 small scale. It is readily propagated by dividing the 
 clumps. Native of S. Africa. 
 
 SciLLA (Squills). — These are beautiful hardy spring- 
 flowering bulbs, of dwarf, compact habit, and mostly 
 bearing blue or white flowers. We have at least a 
 dozen species in cultivation, and these sport into 
 numerous varieties. Few hardy bulbs are more 
 beautiful than these, and they are easily grown in pots 
 (see Colchicum). A large number of species are met 
 with in books, and they are scattered over both 
 Europe and America. 
 
340 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE {Harf s-tongue Fern). — 
 This' is one of the most distinct of all our native 
 Ferns, and is found very abundantly in Devonshire, 
 where it fringes the lanes and waysides with its broad 
 fresh green fronds. It sports into numerous fringed, 
 crisped, and crested varieties, and there are one or 
 two tolerably distinct forms of a variegated character, 
 the light green fronds being splashed with creamy 
 white, intermixed with deep green blotches or lines. 
 The more distinct and beautiful forms may be grown 
 
 Scilla nutans. 
 
 Scilla sibirica. 
 
 in pots, using a fresh well-drained compost of sandy 
 loam, peat, and abundance of coarse grit or road 
 sand. They will luxuriate best in a moist, shady 
 corner, sheltered from the hot sun; and regular 
 syringings when throwing up their young fronds 
 assist their growth materially, and at the same time 
 keep insect-pests in abeyance. Grown in pots they 
 form handsome decorative objects, and their broad 
 strap-shaped fronds come in very useful for grouping 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 341 
 
 in the drawing-room vases along with choice cut- 
 flowers, and other Ferns of a more elegant character. 
 
 Scolofmdrium iiulgare. 
 
 Our illustration shows the habit of these plants, and 
 represents one of the wavy-margined varieties. 
 
 Sedum Sieboldii (Three-leaved or Ternate S.) — 
 This is one of the prettiest of all basket-plants for 
 the window, and it grows very freely, bearing its 
 fleshy, wedge-shaped, glaucous leaves in threes on 
 the slender drooping stems. There is also a variety 
 with golden-blotched foliage. Japan. Some of the 
 dwarfer species are well worth growing. S. acre 
 {common stonecrop) is a bright green golden-flowered 
 species often met with on walls, roofs, and porches 
 in country districts. S. dasyphyllum and other of 
 the dwarf-spreading section grow well on old walls, 
 ruins, or in pots of sandy soil. Nearly all are hardy. 
 Europe. 
 
 S. SPECTABILE (S. fabarium) {Rosy-flowered S.) — 
 One of the best of all hardy succulent plants for 
 the window. Propagate by division, and grow the 
 plants outside during the hot weather, removing them 
 indoors to flower during the autumn months. It has 
 fleshy glaucous leaves on erect stems i foot high, and 
 bears dense masses of pale, rosy-lilac flowers. The 
 
342 DESCRIPTIVE, 
 
 flowers last for a month after being cut if placed in 
 wet sand. Europe. 
 
 Selaginella kraussiana {Carpet-Moss). — This is 
 nearly hardy, and grows well in pots of sandy loam 
 and leaf-mould in the window. It is also useful for 
 carpeting the Wardian case, or even the window- 
 boxes or baskets outside during summer with its 
 fresh green spray. It is a rapid grower if liberally 
 supplied with moisture, and may be readily pro- 
 pagated by division, as its slender stems root freely 
 from their under surface. This species is sometimes 
 called S. hortensis, and more frequently S. denticulata. 
 In Paris it is largely used for carpeting the ground 
 surface of cool greenhouses, and also for the flower- 
 beds in the parks during the summer. All the 
 species grow well in a close moist case or glass shade. 
 (See Fern list). S.' America. 
 
 Sempervivum. — This is a genus of fine-habited 
 succulents, most of which grow with their fleslyr 
 leaves arranged around a centre, something like the 
 petals of a Rose. They are all adapted for pot- 
 culture, or for edging flower-beds, window - boxes, 
 or hanging - baskets out of doors during summer. 
 S. arachnoideum is coated with white hairs like a 
 spider's web. S. (calcareum) californicum is largely 
 used in the London parks for edging flower-beds 
 along with Echeveria secunda. S. ciliatum, S. tabu- 
 lariforme, S. (Bollii) aureum, S. fimbriatum, S. ar- 
 boreum, S. pyramidale, and many others, may be 
 grown outside during the summer, and come in 
 handy for room - decoration during winter. Keep 
 them dry from November to March. They are all 
 readily propagated by division. European — some of 
 the more tender species coming from the Canaries, 
 Madeira, and Tenerifie. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 343 
 
 Sempervivum canariense. 
 
 Sempervivum canariense {Canary HoUse-leek). 
 — This is a robust and very ornamental decorative 
 plant either for 
 pot-culture in the 
 window or for 
 planting out of 
 doors during the 
 summer months. 
 As shown in our 
 excellent illustra- 
 tion, the leaves 
 are arranged in a 
 rosulate manner 
 around a cup- 
 shaped centre, and are of a soft pale-green colour, 
 covered with soft white hairs, and terminating in an 
 abrupt point at their apices. It is propagated readily 
 from offsets, which are produced in tolerable abund- 
 ance by well-established plants. Cape of Good 
 Hope. 
 
 S. URBICUM {Bronze-leaved House-leek). — Another 
 fine ornamental 
 species, which con- 
 trasts well with the 
 last, especially if 
 grown in an open 
 airy position, fully 
 exposed to the sun, 
 when its foliage be- 
 comes tinted with 
 bright bronze or 
 chestnut colour, while 
 some of the leaves 
 are spotted with dull purple. The margins of its 
 bright glossy leaves are set with numerous minute 
 
 Sempervivum urbicum. 
 
344 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 hair-like teeth. Our engraving is from a photograph, 
 and shows the general habit of the plant admirably. 
 It is as hardy and as easy to multiply as the last, and 
 should be in every collection of succulents, however 
 select. Cape. 
 
 SiLENE ACAULIS {Rosy Cuskion-pink). — A dwarf 
 moss-like plant, growing in a dense spreading mass, 
 and bearing numerous rosy pink or crimson flowers. 
 
 ^^s '\-:i«i !03 
 
 iAr "Vi , 
 
 Silene acauHs. 
 
 It is a pretty plant for rock-work or balcony, and is 
 found wild in the lake districts, and also in alpine 
 localities in Scotland, Ireland, and Wales. Division 
 of the tufts. Europe. 
 
 S. MARITIMA {Seaside Cushion-pink). — ^A pretty rosy- 
 flowered species only 3-4 inches high. The double 
 variety is very pretty, and forms an attractive addition 
 to the group. It is found on the sea-coast in England, 
 and is readily propagated by seed or division. There 
 are several other varieties very useful either for bor- 
 ders or boxes, and they are easily raised -from spring- 
 sown seeds. Europe. 
 
 SOLANUM JASMINIOIDES {Jasmim-like 6".)— This 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 345 
 
 is one of the prettiest of all hardy climbers for a wall 
 in the south of England, and produces its clusters of 
 pure white flowers during the summer and autumn 
 months. Its foliage is lobed, dark green, and its 
 flowers come in handy for decorative purposes. Cut- 
 tings or layers. S. America. 
 
 There are many fine-foliaged Solanums which grow 
 well outside during the summer months, as S. argentea 
 (silvery), S. robusta (olive green), and others. The 
 berry-bearing section, S. capsicastrum and S. pseudo- 
 capsicum (Williams'), are very handsome when studded 
 with bright orange-scarlet fruit as large as marbles. 
 They grow best treated like Salvias (see p. 336). 
 
 SONCHUS LACINIATUS [Cut-leaved Sow-thistle). — 
 This is a very pretty 
 plant, remarkable for 
 its elegant pinnate 
 foliage, of a bright 
 and pleasing green 
 colour, gracefullyar- 
 ranged around a 
 slender erect stem. 
 Readily propagated 
 from either cuttings 
 or seeds, and being a 
 free grower, it makes 
 an effective orna- 
 mental specimen 
 planted out during 
 
 the summer in o . ; , 
 
 any rich sandy soil. 
 
 Grown in small pots, it forms one of the lightest and 
 most graceful of all dinner-table plants. Madeira. 
 
 Sorghum bicolor [Two-coloured Milled). — This is 
 one of the most ornamental of all the Grasses, belonging 
 
346 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 to a genus several species of which are extensively 
 cultivated for food in Spain, Italy, and other portions 
 of Southern Europe, as well as in Arabia and Asia 
 Minor. The plant under notice is readily propagated 
 from seed, and grows best treated as a half-hardy 
 annual in a warm sandy soil. As shown by our illus- 
 tration its habit is very graceful, the millet-like heads 
 drooping elegantly on all sides. 
 
 Spiraea filipendula [Fern-leaved S.) — A pretty 
 hardy plant, bearing erect spikes of white flowers, 
 which spring from a tuft of finely-divided fern-like 
 leaves. It is a native of England, and flowers freely 
 in a common border during summer. Division. 
 
 Stachys lanata {Lamb's-ear).—K dwarf silvery 
 plant often used for edgings. It is perfectly hardy, 
 and may be propagated readily by division. Siberia. 
 
 Spir^a japonica— j^^ Hoteia. 
 
 S. PALMATA {Crimson S.) — A noble variety, having 
 deep-green lobed or palmate foliage, and bearing dense 
 masses of rosy -crimson flowers. It is one of the 
 handsomest of pot -plants, although, like the two 
 species named above, it will flower well planted out 
 in a moist warm border. Its flowers are very useful 
 for bouquets or dinner-table decoration, and they 
 look well under artificial light. Propagated by divi- 
 sion of the roots. Japan. 
 
 Stapelia {Carrion -flowers). — This is a curious 
 genus of succulent plants often known under the 
 above name, which is derived from the fact that most 
 of the species have the odour of putrid flesh. None 
 of the species are strikingly beautiful, although highly 
 interesting even to an ordinary observer. Our illus- 
 tration gives an excellent idea of their general habit 
 and mode of flowering. There are from thirty to 
 fifty species cultivated in gardens, althougl^ they are 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 347 
 
 not so generally grown as one could wish. A curious 
 fact about these 
 quaint plants is, that 
 flies deposit their 
 eggs in the centre 
 of the flower, evi- 
 dently mistaking it 
 for animal matter. 
 In some cases, espe- 
 cially during hot 
 weather, these eggs 
 are brought to ma- 
 turity, and the mag- 
 gots, after vainly 
 crawling about the 
 flower in quest of 
 nourishment, perish 
 by starvation. 
 These plants, like 
 many Orchids, re- 
 quire insect agency 
 to assist them in fertilisation, and no doubt the pecu- 
 liar odour is a wise provision to insure their becoming 
 fertilised. 
 
 The seeds are borne in spindle-shaped pods (cap- 
 sules), and will float like thistle-down during dry 
 sunny weather. Cuttings of these plants strike freely 
 during the spring or summer months. Keep them 
 dry and as much exposed to light and sun as possible 
 during the winter months. All the species may be 
 grown in a case fitted inside the window, but do not 
 require the constant state of moisture in which Ferns 
 luxuriate. Excessive moisture is certain death to all 
 succulents, especially during dull cold weather. Cape 
 of Good Hope. (See List.) 
 
 atapdia hirsuta. 
 
348 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Stipa pennata {Common Feather - Grass). — 
 A slender - leaved species bearing numerous silky- 
 plumes in the autumn not unlike a liliputian Pampas 
 Grass. It is easily grown in a warm sandy border, 
 and its plumes are useful for winter bouquets of 
 Immortelles or for the chimney-vases. Division. 
 Britain. 
 
 Thuneergia alata {Winged T.) — Very pretty 
 half-hardy climbers, bearing yellow or white flowers 
 
 freely during the sum- 
 mer and autumn. The 
 throat of the flower is 
 nearly black. They 
 grow well in any light 
 rich compost, and are 
 very pretty trained up 
 the window trellis or 
 strings. Seeds in the 
 spring. E. Indies. 
 
 TOD^A superba 
 {Superb Filmy Fern). 
 — Of this lovely New 
 Zealand Fern a corre- 
 spondent writes me as 
 follows : "This Fern is generally considered diffi- 
 cult to grow in the house ; but with a little fore- 
 thought we have found it as manageable as the common 
 Lady Fern. The pot in which it is grown is sunk in 
 a common circular 12-inch seed-pan filled with moss 
 surfaced with live Hypnum. This again is inserted 
 in one of the large ornamental fern-cases and the 
 whole covered with a bell-glass. Every other day in 
 summer, and once or twice a-week in winter, Todsea 
 and moss alike are dewed over with tepid water, the 
 glass being never removed except for this purpose. 
 
 Thunbergia alata. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 349 
 
 Its place is on the floor under a Wardian case at a 
 north window, thus securing shade ; and there have 
 often been several degrees of frost around it without 
 its sustaining the slightest injury. Very little pot- 
 room is needed — our plant, though now filling an 18- 
 inch glass, is still only in a 60 — the curious filmy roots 
 striking direct out from under the crown, and rami- 
 fying all through the moss. The advantage of the 
 double containing-vessels is, that the size of glass can 
 be increased as required without disturbing the moss 
 or roots of the Todaea ; and the surfacing of Hypnum 
 under this treatment almost rivals in beauty that of 
 the Fern." 
 
 Trachelium CGERULEUM {Blue Throatwort). — 
 This is a pretty blue-flowered plant, well suited for 
 pot-culture, bearing dense heads of flowers. There 
 is also a white-flowered variety. It is useful for in- 
 door decorations, but may be grown as recommended 
 for Chrysanthemums. It is raised from spring-sown 
 seeds, and is perfectly hardy on dry soils. Mediter- 
 ranean. 
 
 Tradescantia zebrina {Striped Spiderwori). — 
 A free-growing trailer, well suited for carpeting win- 
 dow-boxes during summer, or for the margins and 
 bottoms of hanging-baskets. Its foliage is silvery, 
 striped with bronze, and of a deep purple beneath. 
 Cuttings root very freely in wet sand. It is interest- 
 ing as having been named after John Tradescant, one 
 of the earliest of English gardeners. Another species 
 is sometimes met with in old gardens under the name 
 of Virginian Spiderwort. It grows a foot high, and 
 bears a profusion of lovely blue flowers during the 
 summer and autumn. The stalks of the anthers are 
 very hairy-looking, exactly like floss silk in the sun, 
 and they form a beautiful microscopic object when 
 
350 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 examined under a low power. There is also a white- 
 flowered variety. Virginia. 
 
 Trichinium manglesii. — One of the prettiest of 
 all everlasting flowers, bearing clusters of delicate pink 
 flowers set with long hairs. To grow it successfully, 
 plants should never be retained after the second year. 
 It grows well in sandy fibrous loam and peat. To 
 propagate it, the only plan is to cut up its fleshy root 
 into short lengths a line or two long, and to treat 
 these like seeds, sowing them in sand and peat. The 
 stronger the root-cuttings, the more vigorous will be 
 your plants. Grow them in a cool case, and remove 
 them when they flower. Native of the Swan River. 
 
 Trichomanes radicans {Killarney Fern). — This 
 elegant plant is nearly hardy, and grows very nicely 
 in a close humid plant-case. It should be grown in 
 a shallow pan in nodules of peat and sandstone, with 
 a little sphagnum moss intermixed. Cultivated be- 
 neath a glass shade, it forms an interesting ornament 
 to any apartment. Division. It belongs to the 
 " Filmy Ferns," some species of which are of a very 
 delicate seifti - pellucid character, and sparkle like 
 golden dew-drops after being sprinkled with pure 
 soft water. Division. (See List.) 
 
 T.RENIFORME. — This is one of the finest species for a 
 drawing-room plant-case, and totally distinct in habit. 
 
 Tricyrtis hirta {Hairy T.) — A peculiar hardy 
 border - plant, but well adapted for pot -culture, if 
 treated as recommended under Anemone. Its leaves 
 are hairy, and the flowers are creamy white, spotted 
 with purple. The centre of the flower reminds one 
 very forcibly of Passiflora ccerulea, or Blue Passion- 
 flower. Division. (See fig.) 
 
 Trillium grandiflorum ( White-flowered T.)— It 
 is a pity one so seldom sees this plant grown in pots 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 351 
 
 for the spring decoration of the greenhouse or win- 
 dow-garden. Each stem has three leaves, and bears 
 a great nodding flower of the purest white, as shown 
 in our illustration. I have seen it blooming very 
 freely in the Botanic Garden at Edinburgh, and also 
 in Messrs Veitch's Nursery at Chelsea. Readily 
 multiplied by dividing strong clumps. N. America. 
 It grows best in a deep, moist, .peaty soil, but suc- 
 
 Trkyrtis hirta. 
 
 Trillium grandijiorum. 
 
 ceeds tolerably well in fibrous or turfy loam. It 
 should be planted (or plunged in a pot) in a border 
 with an eastern aspect, and carefully protected from 
 hot sunshine. This plant is often called the " White 
 Wood-Lily." 
 
 Triteleia uniflora [Garlic Star-flower) — A 
 pretty httle spring - flowering bulb, having slender 
 foliage, and white star-shaped flowers, often slightly 
 tinged with pale blue. Some dislike it on account 
 of its smelling like onions or garlic, if bruised ever 
 
352 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 SO slightly. It is perfectly hardy, and blooms well 
 in pots treated like Colchicums. Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Triteleia uniflora. 
 
 Trop^OLUM majus (Nasturtium). — A well-known 
 hardy annual plant, easily raised from spring- sown 
 seeds. The dwarf varieties are useful bedding-plants. 
 Peru. 
 
 T. PENTAPHYLLUM [Five-leaved T) — A strong- 
 growing, tuberous-rooted climber, bearing numerous 
 orange -red flowers during the summer. Fruit of a 
 violet-purple colour. It grows freely on warm sandy 
 or calcareous soils, and is highly ornamental trained 
 on trellises, pillars, walls, or screens. Division or 
 seed. Chili. 
 
 T. TRICOLORUM {Tricoloured T) — One of the 
 prettiest of old-fashioned greenhouse flowers, having 
 .slender trailing stems, and bearing a profusion of 
 orange - scarlet and black flowers all through the 
 summer. It is not hardy, but grows well in the 
 window, or even on the balcony. Valparaiso. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 35g 
 
 T. L03BIANUM (LOBB'S T.)— This is a fine small- 
 leaved species, and one of the best of all tender 
 climbers, flowering all through the winter in a warm 
 and sunny window (see fig.) It requires plenty of 
 moisture, and a rich, warm, sandy soil. Columbia. 
 
 Tropaolum Lobbianum. 
 
 There are several other species from Chili and Peru, 
 all beautiful. T. azureum, T. Jarrattii, and T. penta- 
 phyllum are the best. Bulbs, and occasionally from 
 seed. 
 
 TULIPA Gesneriana {Common Tulip). — Most of 
 the beautiful florists' varieties of Tulips have origin- 
 ated from this species. The passionate mania which 
 once existed for this flower has now subsided ; but 
 at the same time it is extremely popular, especially 
 in the north of England and in Scotland, where it is 
 carefully grown for show purposes beneath canvas 
 shades. . Formerly, large sums were paid for a single 
 bulb of any fine variety — indeed the prices were even 
 
 z 
 
354 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 more extravagant than those paid for rare Orchids in 
 our own time. All the varieties of Tulips are well 
 adapted for growing in pots of rich sandy soil, and 
 flower freely in the spring. N. Asia. Levant. 
 
 Valisneria spiralis {Grass-like V.) — A grass- 
 like aquatic, easily grown in an inverted bell-glass, 
 along with the Aponogeton or Nymphaea pygmaea, 
 the smallest of all Water - lilies ; indeed it can be 
 grown in a small aquarium or ornamental pan but 
 a trifle wider than a leaf of the common white Water- 
 lily, of which this little species is an exact counter- 
 part on a small scale. The Valisneria roots freely 
 into a little sandy earth or mud, and bears both male 
 and female flowers. The latter are borne on long 
 spiral stalks, hence the specific name, and float on 
 the surface of the water. The male flowers are borne 
 on very short stalks, right down at the base of the 
 plant, becoming detached and rising to the surface 
 
 just before opening ; this 
 is necessary in order that 
 the female flowers may 
 become fertilised with 
 the pollen from the male 
 plants. The leaves of 
 Valisneria are interest- 
 ing, and show the circu- 
 lation of the sap when 
 seen beneath a low power 
 of the microscope, just as 
 the motion of the blood- 
 corpuscles can be seen 
 in the translucent mem- 
 brane of a frog's foot. 
 
 Vallota purpurea. 
 
 Division or seed. Europe. 
 
 Vallota purpurea {Scarborough Lily). — A well- 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 355 
 
 known evergreen bulbous plant, easily grown, even in 
 a cottage window, and remarkably effective, bearing 
 large scarlet flowers on stems 12 to 15 inches high. 
 It is largely grown by the London market-gardeners 
 or florists for Covent Garden market. It flowers dur- 
 ing September and October, and lasts for a consider- 
 able time. In potting, use rich sandy compost, and 
 do not over-water this or any other bulbs until their 
 pots are filled with roots. During the winter, keep 
 the soil nearly dry. Division. Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Veltheimia VIRIDIFOLIA {Glossy-leaved V.) — This 
 is a common bulbous plant well worth general window- 
 culture on account of its fresh green undulating leaves, 
 which are dotted at the base with purple. Its droop- 
 ing flowers are of a pale rose or flesh tint, borne on 
 an erect spotted scape above the foliage. The plant 
 is sufficiently hardy to stand outside during summer, 
 while a few degrees above actual frost during winter 
 is enough for its protection. It comes from the Cape 
 of Good Hope, and is easily multiplied by the offsets, 
 which are very freely produced on full-grown speci- 
 mens. 
 
 Veronica Andersoni [Showy V.) — A pretty 
 half-hardy shrub, having oblong leathery leaves, and 
 bearing many axillary spikes of purple or lilac 
 flowers. There are now several varieties and hybrids 
 in cultivation, some being very dwarf and conlpact, 
 and free-flowering. Planted out under a sunny wall 
 during summer, they flower freely ; or they are very 
 useful for the decoration of balconies and window- 
 gardens. They are easily propagated from cuttings 
 in the spring, and are well worth extensive culti- 
 vation in pots. New Zealand. 
 
 VlNCA MAJOR {Greater Periwinkle). — A free-grow- 
 ing trailer bearing large blue flowers, and having 
 
3S6 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 opposite glossy ;br '.shining foliage on slender stems 
 which .root freely from the joints. There are some 
 beautifiil variegated varieties of this much used as 
 edgings' and borders to rockeries or flower-beds. 
 Being evergreen they are useful for planting in the 
 window-boxes during winter along with evergreen 
 shrubs as Aucubas and Euonymus. Easily propa- 
 gated by division. Europe. 
 
 V. MINOR [Lesser Periwinkle). — This has a more 
 slender trailing habit than the preceding and has 
 smallen' leaves. It flowers freely during the spring 
 and summer on erect shoots like the last named. 
 There are both double - flowered and variegated 
 varieties, all of which are ornamental for the above 
 purposes, and also for hanging-baskets during winter. 
 Layers and division. Europe. 
 
 Viola altaica ( Upland Violet). — This and V. tri- 
 color are the parents from which all our "Pansies" 
 or " Heart's-ease " have originated. These rich velvet- 
 like flowers have been brought to a high state of per- 
 fection ; but, like Tulips and Auriculas, they have not 
 been so much thought of since the introduction of 
 Ferns, Palms, Orchids, and other choice exotics. 
 Pansies strike freely from cuttings, or they can be 
 raised from seeds sown in boxes of light rich sandy 
 earth in the autumn or spring. They are of course 
 quite' hardy, but grow well in pots. Altai Mountains 
 near China. 
 
 V. CORNUTA [Horned Violet) is often used as an 
 edging plant, producing its pale blue or mauve flowers 
 very freely through the spring and summer months. 
 Cuttings. Europe. 
 
 V. ODORATA [Sweet Violet). — One of the most 
 deliciously fragrant of all wild flowers, and commonly 
 naturalised in garden-borders for the sake of its odour. 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 357 
 
 There are many varieties, both blue and white, and 
 they all flower freely in the winter and spring if 
 planted under a cold frame fully exposed to the sun. 
 They also bloom very early naturalised on warm dry 
 sandy borders on the south side of a wall or fence. 
 There are double -flowered varieties, both white and 
 blue, and all are worth growing. They do well in 
 pots, producing their perfumed flowers in abundance. 
 The Violet was an emblem of the Napoleonic dynasty! 
 Europe. 
 
 VlTiS VINIFERA {Common Grape Vine). — Apart 
 from its value as a fruit-bearing plant, the common 
 Grape Vine is one of the most effective of hardy 
 climbing or trailing plants when grown outside bal- 
 conies or verandas. Its foliage is elegant in form 
 and of the freshest green colour imaginable during the 
 summer ; while many varieties, as " Gros Guillaume " 
 or "Esperione," rival the crimson - tinted Virginian 
 Creeper itself during the autumn months. Many of 
 the Canadian or American Vines, as Vitis vulpina 
 {Fox-Grapes), V. labrusca, and others, form handsome 
 wreaths of richly-coloured foliage and fruit in abund- 
 ance during the autumn, when trained gracefully 
 around porches, trees, rustic trellises, or over arbours 
 and outhouses. V. arbuscula is a small-leaved species 
 bearing purple berries, and may be used occasionally 
 for dishing up fruit or for wreaths. For picturesque 
 eff"ect few trailers equal Vines when planted and 
 allowed to ramble over ruins or old retaining walls. 
 Vines propagate readily from cuttings, layers, or eyes. 
 In favourable seasons the " Royal Muscadine " ripens 
 its fruit on a sunny south wall, as also does the little 
 " Black Cluster," one of the hardiest and most prolific 
 of all outdoor Grapes. Asia and America. 
 
 WlGA]S[DlA CARACASSANA {Large-leaved W.) — A 
 
358. DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 fine-foliaged plant with fresh green leaves often i8 in. 
 long by about a foot in width. It grows well either 
 planted out or grown in pots for balcony decoration 
 during summer. It is easily propagated by root-cut- 
 tings — i. e., pieces of the thick fleshy roots are placed 
 in a gentle bottom-heat during the early part of the 
 year, and they soon throw up fresh little growths 
 from the latent or adventitious buds distributed over 
 the surface. S. America. 
 
 Yucca {Adam's Needle). — This genus contains 
 some of the noblest plants ever grown in gardens for 
 
 foliage effects, while they 
 often flower freely during 
 the summer and autumn 
 months. Their sword- 
 shaped leaves are armed 
 at the point with a sharp 
 spine ; and their fragrant, 
 waxy, bell-shaped flowers 
 droop gracefully from the 
 branches of an erect spike 
 2 to 5 feet high. The best 
 varieties are Y. aloifolia 
 and its yellow variegated 
 
 Yacca flaccida. . , -xr ri . -.,■ 
 
 variety, Y. filamentosa,Y. 
 f variegata, Y. glauca, and Y. quadricolor, one of 
 the finest, its golden variegated leaves becoming 
 tinted with bright crimson when it is fully exposed in 
 the open air during summer. N. America, Columbia, 
 Georgia, Carolina, and one or two from the Cape. 
 Grown in clumps or masses on lawns or slopes, Yuccas 
 are unrivalled for picturesque effect even during winter; 
 while their grand flower- spikes give a semi-tropical 
 aspect to the most commonplace scene during sum- 
 mer. The variegated varieties are very ornamental 
 
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLANTS. 
 
 359 
 
 in apartments during the winter season, and always 
 look well when tastefully arranged along with suc- 
 culents. Palms, Acacia lophanta, and Ficus elastica. 
 Plants in large pots or small tubs are effective for 
 balcony decoration during the summer months, espe- 
 
 Yucca Jilamentosa variegata. 
 
 cially when grouped artistically along with Virginian 
 Creeper, Wistaria, Grape Vines, Gourds, Tropzeolums, 
 or other graceful climbers and trailing-plants. 
 
 Zephyranthes carinatus. — This and its pure 
 white congener Z. candidus flower very freely in 
 open borders. It has grassy foliage a foot long, 
 and bears delicate pink flowers on scapes nearly as 
 long as the foliage. When grown in warm sheltered 
 positions — as, for instance, at the base of a south wall 
 — these Zephyranthes form pretty additions to our list 
 of hardy autumnal bulbs. One species is called the 
 West-wind Flower, and is commonly met with grow- 
 ing in the gardens of Ceylon, as margins to walks and 
 beds. 
 
36o 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND APPLIANCES 
 FOR INDOOR GARDENING. 
 
 A few remarks and general hints as to the mechan- 
 ical contrivances which, if not actually essential, are 
 extremely useful and convenient to the amateur, may 
 be found of some service in our present issue. I do 
 not profess to recommend particular tradesmen, but 
 any of those incidentally mentioned in this work will 
 supply them of excellent quality, and, so far as my 
 own experience goes, at a reasonable price. Our 
 illustrations will save us the trouble of writing dry 
 descriptive details, which, as a rule, only serve to weary 
 the general reader instead of affording instruction. 
 A number of the appliances here mentioned are of 
 general utility for many other domestic purposes be- 
 sides window and balcony gardening, and should find 
 a place in every well-regulated household. 
 
 Some appliances are elegancies rather than practical 
 helps to success, and these have been avoided as much 
 as possible. 
 
 Hyacinth Glasses. — These are very ornamental. 
 
 Hyacinth Classes. 
 
 good bulbs flowering very freely in them, and some 
 
IMPLEMENTS AND APPLIANCES. 
 
 361 
 
 prefer them to pots on account of their neat, clean, 
 and showy appearance. No. i is the old shape in 
 plain glass ; No. 2, improved or Richmond shape in 
 the same material ; and No. 3 shows a new and more 
 elegant design, which may be had in coloured glass, 
 terra cotta, or Etruscan ware. Our figure also shows 
 a neat gilt-wire support, which holds the spike quite 
 
 Hyacinth Glass. 
 
 Wood Specimen Vases. 
 
 firmly in its place without being in any way obtrusive. 
 The "Triplet" glass consists of three glasses fused 
 together so as to hold three bulbs of different colours. 
 Coloured or opaque glasses are preferable, as the water 
 becomes discoloured and unsightly. A lump or two 
 of charcoal keeps it tolerably fresh, and a few drops 
 of ammonia once a-week is a good stimulant. 
 
 Specimen F«j^j. — These come in handy for the 
 reception of any curious or interesting flower, and 
 
362 DESCRIPTIVE, 
 
 make nice little ornaments for the chimney-piece or 
 for the drawing-room or library table. They are 
 made in terra cotta, Etruscan ware, or glass, and may 
 be had either plain or ornamental. The latest novelty 
 in this way was shown to me by Mr Hooper of Covent 
 Garden, and consists of carved wood vases lined with 
 glass. These are nice for church decorations, and 
 equally useful for the library or studio. Those of 
 plain or coloured glass are used for setting before 
 each guest at the dinner-table, each containing a 
 choice flower neatly arranged, either with its own 
 foliage, or with one or two Fern-fronds. 
 
 Pot-covers. — These are very useful for concealing the 
 bare sides of the common earthenware flower-pots 
 
 Ivy-lattice Pot-cover covered with Bouquet-holder, 
 
 imitation Ivy. 
 
 when brought into the parlour or drawing-room, and 
 can be obtained either plain or coloured. Being expan- 
 sive, they fit pots of any size. Our illustration shows 
 an improved form, in which the strips are ornamented 
 with imitation Ivy or other foliage, according to taste. 
 Some of these covers are neatly gilt and are very 
 moderate in price. They are very durable, and when 
 not in use can be rolled up tightly so as to occupy 
 but little room. 
 
 Bouquet-holders. — These are made of various mate- 
 
IMPLEMENTS AND APPLIANCES. 
 
 363 
 
 rials, and are very elegant. Our figure shows a useful 
 form made in glazed pasteboard. Those of neat 
 wicker-work are pretty, some being straight and others 
 formed like miniature horns-of-plenty, having curved 
 handles. The more valuable kinds are made of gold 
 or silver filigree-work, often jewelled, and are in some 
 cases very costly. 
 
 Bouquet-wires. — There are at least half- a - dozen 
 kinds of wire used by professional bouquetistes, all 
 of which can be obtained from any furnishing florist 
 either by the pound or reel. The stouter kinds are 
 used for stems, and itiay be bought for a shiUing or 
 eighteenpence per pound. For piercing CameUias 
 and other flowers having very short stems or stalks, 
 fine steel wire is used. For binding the flowers on 
 their artificial stems very thin wire is sold on wooden 
 reels, and this may be obtained either plain or plated 
 according to taste. 
 
 Bouquet-papers. — Edgings of glazed or perforated 
 paper are used for the commoner kinds of bouquets, 
 to which they give a neat and attractive finish. The 
 plain papers, or " collars," are made in sizes of from 
 
 Bouquet-papers. 
 
 6 to 12 inches in diameter, and cost from threepence 
 to a shilling per dozen. 
 
 Our illustrations show an improved funnel-shaped 
 "collar" of perforated paper of good quality neatly 
 finished off" with a glazed card which preserves the 
 shape. These can be had either plain, gilt, or silvered. 
 
364 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 and vary from two to eighteen shillings per dozen. 
 The finer kinds of bouquets are fringed with blonde, 
 over which real lace is tastefully arranged, and the 
 whole finished off neatly with white satin ribbons of 
 the best quality. 
 
 Flower Brooches and Tubes. — Many flowers, very 
 beautiful for button - hole bouquets, or as personal 
 ornaments for ladies, droop or fade in a few minutes, 
 unless the ends of their stalks are kept in water. 
 The common glass tubes sold for coat-flowers answer 
 the purpose very well ; and brooches for ladies may 
 have a tube for a little water concealed behind 
 them. Those now sold by florists are not very ele- 
 gant in point of design ; and there is an excellent 
 opening for some beautiful and useful ornaments in 
 this direction. 
 
 Hyacinth-glass Holders. — A glance at our illustra- 
 tions explains the use and adaptability of these handy 
 contrivances, which have been specially designed as 
 
 Hyacinth-glass Holders. 
 
 portable brackets, for which purpose they are well 
 adapted. They can be screwed firmly to any pro- 
 
IMPLEMENTS AND APPLIANCES. 365 
 
 jecting wood or stone work, either in the house or 
 in the conservatory, and may be used for a great 
 variety of purposes besides window - gardening. 
 Flower-pots, vases, or any other object of moderate 
 size, can be held in place of Hyacinth glasses; 
 and I can thoroughly recommend them for their 
 general utility. 
 
 A useful Chair.~0\ix figure shows the adaptability 
 of this ingenious contrivance at a glance ; and as it 
 is of substantial manufac- 
 ture, and very moderate in 
 price, it will be a great ac- 
 quisition to most window or 
 balcony gardeners. Noth- 
 ing could be better for the 
 greenhouse, fernery, or con- 
 servatory ; and being made 
 of varnished o^k, its ap- 
 pearance is all that can be ^ "''^"' Garden-chair. 
 desired. As a pair of steps, they are far preferable 
 to the ordinary kind. A glance at our illustration 
 will show that they stand on a perfectly solid base. 
 Nothing can be handier for the general work of 
 the household, such as dusting, window -cleaning, 
 &c., and they are invaluable in the office, studio, or 
 library. 
 
 Watering-pans. — These are necessary to all amateur 
 as well as professional gardeners. The common form 
 of pot is the best for general purposes of watering 
 and sprinkling ; but for plants on shelves or brackets 
 above one's head, the flat form is preferable. In 
 selecting a watering-pot, have a copper rose or two 
 of different sizes, that will unscrew readily, in case 
 they become blocked up by impurities in the water. 
 For sprinkling small seeds, a very fine rose is re- 
 
366 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 quired, as a coarse one washes out the soil, and often 
 the seeds as well. 
 
 Syringes. — The syringe is a very useful implement 
 in the hands of an expert cultivator, it being a 
 deadly weapon to both thrip and red -spider. It 
 should be made of brass, the thicker the better, as 
 it is then not so liable to become bruised or put out 
 of order. If it is fitted with a nozzle, any degree of 
 force can be given by placing the finger over the end, 
 so as to modify the current, and direct it upwards or 
 downwards, as may be required. Fine and coarse 
 roses are all very well in their way, but an expert 
 horticulturist can do all he requires with the nozzle- 
 pipe and his forefinger. 
 
 Thermometers. — These are very valuable aids to the 
 horticulturist, and one should always hang in the win- 
 dow, as well as in the close cases. Those 
 filled with mercury or quicksilver are prefer- 
 able, and generally more accurate than the 
 cheap instruments filled with coloured fluids or 
 spirits of wine. A good and reliable instru- 
 ment is always useful in the house, and may be 
 obtained mounted either in boxwood, copper, 
 or enamelled iron for a few shillings. 
 
 Pruning or Flower-gathering Instruments. — 
 A pair of sharp-pointed grape-scissors will be 
 found very useful for snipping out decayed 
 flowers or dead leaves. For pruning in Climbers, 
 Roses, and other strong-growing or hard -wooded 
 plants, a pair of common pruning -scissors (see fig.) 
 will come in very handy. For taking off cuttings, a 
 sharp knife is the best implement, and the keener the 
 blade is the better. For flower - gathering, either 
 scissors or the knife may be used, but it often hap- 
 pens that one has to reach out at arm's length for a 
 
IMPLEMENTS AND APPLIANCES. 367 
 
 choice bloom. In cases like this (where it is not 
 convenient to cut the flower with one hand while 
 holding it with the other), Selby's Flower-gatherer is 
 
 Pruning-scissors. Selby's Flower-gatherer. 
 
 very handy, as it cuts the flower and holds it firmly 
 at the same time. This is important in the case of 
 tender or fragile blossoms, which would be seriously 
 damaged by falling. 
 
 Baskets. — Flower-baskets are generally made of 
 light wicker-work, and rather shallow ; but when 
 baskets are required for soil, pots, crocks, or any 
 other rough and heavy substance, nothing is better 
 than the wooden baskets. These are made of thin 
 tough strips of ash or other wood, and last for several 
 years, if carefully handled. They are the best of all 
 baskets for the garden, and come in handy for many 
 other domestic purposes. They are made in all sizes, 
 and some are finished off in a very neat and orna- 
 mental manner. 
 
 Labels. — Nothing adds so much to the interest of 
 a collection of healthy plants as to see them all pro- 
 perly named or neatly labelled. Labels are made 
 very variable as to shape, and of various materials. 
 Those of deal (cut with a sharp knife, and the smooth 
 face rubbed over with a thin coat of white-lead) are 
 neat and durable, and can be neatly written with a 
 common lead pencil. Wooden labels ready made 
 cost about a shiUing per hundred. Terra cotta labels 
 are too thick and clumsy, as a rule, for small pot- 
 
368 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 plants, though they are valuable for trees and shrubs 
 outside. Zinc labels like those figured below are both 
 neat and durable, and when written with an ordinary- 
 pen and prepared ink sold for the purpose^ it is 
 almost impossible to erase the names or numbers 
 
 §sr 
 
 D 
 
 Zinc labels. 
 
 unless immersed in nitric or muriatic add for a short 
 time. Our illustration shows the shapes best suited 
 for pots, as well as those useful for hanging on trees 
 and shrubs. 
 
 Tying materials. — For the purpose of tying plants 
 to supports, either sticks or trellises, strips of bast or 
 Russian matting are generally employed, and are very 
 handy if of good quality. China Grass or Japanese 
 Flax is capable of being subdivided into long hair- 
 like strips which are very strong and neat. Ordinary 
 worsted is elastic and one of the best of all tying 
 materials. For climbers and shrubs on walls or 
 trellises outside, common lead wire is very convenient 
 and durable. Copper wire is also very good and 
 lasting, although not so easily used as that made of 
 lead. 
 
 Sticks and Trellises. — Light thin sticks are very 
 useful for supporting plants of weak or straggling 
 habit, as well as for regulating those of stronger 
 growth. Common plasterer's laths, which may be ' 
 bought for a shilling or eighteenpence a bundle, split 
 easily and make neat little stakes. Bamboo sticks 
 ready made are both neat and durable. A coat of 
 
IMPLEMENTS AND APPIJANCES. 369 
 
 green paint improves their appearance and prevents 
 their becoming too obtrusive. 
 
 Dibbers. — A useful dibber for planting out seed- 
 lings may be made from the handle of an old worn- 
 out spade. The handle of an old tooth-brush, if 
 ground or filed to a point, makes an excellent dibber 
 for pricking off young seedlings. 
 
 Forks and Trowels. — These are useful for taking 
 up roots or plants from the borders, or for planting 
 bedding stuff out in the spring. They are best made 
 of cast steel, and should be kept clean and bright, or 
 they are apt to clog in working. 
 
 Aphis Brush. — This useful little contrivance is of 
 service to the amateur for removing green -fly from 
 rose-trees or the young shoots of other plants. The 
 brushes are very soft, and will not injure the tenderest 
 growth if properly used. They may either be used 
 dry or dipped in liquid insecticide. 
 
 Stands and Vases. — In the tasteful arrangement 
 of cut-flowers, much more of the effect obtained 
 depends on the form and size of the vases employed 
 than is generally supposed. For general use nothing 
 is better than plain white glasses or vases, and the 
 more elegant these are the better. Avoid all thick 
 heavily-ornamented patterns, or those of complicated 
 design, as these are not only more expensive, but also 
 ill adapted for our purpose. An expert decorator 
 will obtain the best possible effect with glasses like 
 those formerly figured; and a great point in their favour 
 is that they require very few flowers to fill them 
 effectively. In selecting vases, and in filling or 
 arranging them, one point must be borne in mind- 
 namely, do not intercept the view across the table, as 
 nothing is more trying to one's patience than to be 
 compelled to bend and peep at your opposite friend 
 
 2 A 
 
370 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 through the tiers or around the sides of a badly ar- 
 ranged stand. 
 
 These vases can be bought of almost any size ; 
 and if the trumpet-shaped top is made to fit into 
 a socket in the lower dish so much the better, as it 
 can then be more easily packed away when not in use. 
 Be chary in using coloured or gilded vases, as they are 
 only adapted for particular coloured flowers, while 
 
 stands for Ornamental Vases and Flcmer-pots. 
 
 those of plain glass suit nearly all alike. Very pretty 
 vases are now made in oak, terra cotta, and enamelled 
 porcelain or Etruscan ware. These do very well for 
 a few flowers and cut Ferns on the drawing-room 
 table or sideboard. 
 
 Ornamental stone or terra cotta vases look very 
 well on balconies when planted with Yuccas, Agaves, 
 Cannas, Palms, or other foliage - plants during the 
 
LIST OF AQUATIC PLANTS. 371 
 
 summer months. For the winter they can be filled 
 with Yuccas, Ivy, or Periwinkles, and spring-flowering 
 Annuals or Bulbs will make them gay as soon as the 
 weather becomes mild. 
 
 LIST OF AQUATIC PLANTS. 
 
 These interesting plants may be grown in an aqua- 
 rium, or the smaller-growing kinds will succeed per- 
 fectly well in an inverted bell-glass. Some float on 
 the surface and derive sufficient nourishment from the 
 water itself ; but the larger kinds require to be planted 
 in a little sand or gravelly loam at the bottom of the 
 aquarium or bell-glass, whichever may be employed. 
 Some of the most interesting water-beetles and a few 
 minnows or golden carp may be added, as the motion 
 of the water caused by these is very beneficial to the 
 plants. A change of water will now and then be 
 necessary, and a siphon is handy for drawing off' the 
 water from the glass without disturbing the contents. 
 A few lumps of fresh charcoal added now and then 
 sweeten the water considerably. The following may 
 be grJwn in any ordinary apartment protected from 
 frost during severe weather. The last is an imperative 
 necessity, as if the water becomes frozen the safety of 
 the aquarium itself, not to mention its inmates, is 
 imperilled. An aquarium always affords the means 
 of preserving a whole host of fresh microscopic speci- 
 mens in the best possible condition. 
 
 Anacharis alsinastrum or " American Water- 
 weed," common in most rivers, ponds, and canals. 
 
 Aponogeton distachyon (see page 231). — One 
 of the very best of hardy aquatics, a native of the 
 Cape of Good Hope, but perfectly naturalised in this 
 
372 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 country, the finest specimens being in the Edinburgh 
 Botanic Garden. 
 
 Caltha PALUSTRIS. — This is a well-known hardy- 
 British aquatic, bearing its deep golden-yellow flowers 
 very profusely in April or May. In country places 
 where not indigenous it may readily be naturalised 
 by planting it by the moist spongy margins of streams 
 or ponds. There is a double - flowered variety in 
 cultivation. 
 
 Chara. — Several species common in ponds and 
 ditches, all beautiful objects for the microscope under 
 a low power. 
 
 Lemna. — Four British species commonly known as 
 " Duckweeds." L. gibba and L. minor are found in 
 nearly every pond. L. polyrhiza is the most orna- 
 mental, and all are nice microscopic objects, the end 
 of each little root being protected by a well-defined 
 semi-transparent sheath. 
 
 Lymnocharis Humboldtii. — A very graceful 
 water-plant, having bright green heart-shaped leaves 
 and pale sulphur-yellow flowers with a dark purple 
 centre. Though generally treated as a stove-plant, 
 it will succeed perfectly in an ordinary aquarium dur- 
 ing the summer months, and flowers profuse^. It 
 flowers out of doors every summer in the Jardin des 
 Plantes, Paris. 
 
 PiSTiA STRATIOTES {Water -Lettuce). — A bright 
 green little plant which floats on the surface of the 
 water, and succeeds well treated like the last. 
 
 PONTEDERIA CRASSIPES. — This is a fresh-looking 
 exotic with curious swollen petioles to its kidney- 
 shaped leaves. It grows well in a bell-glass during 
 summer, but requires heat in winter. 
 
 POTAMOGETON CRISPUM. — This is another British 
 plant well worth culture either in a tank or pond out- 
 
LIST OF PALMS AND CYCADS. 373 
 
 side, or in the parlour aquarium. Small pieces look 
 very pretty in a bell-glass, and soon root and form 
 plants. 
 
 RiCHARDiA ^THIOPICA {Lily of the Nile) (seepage 
 334)- — This beautiful plant succeeds well treated as 
 a hardy aquatic, and withstands the severity of our 
 southern winters with impunity if plunged two or 
 three feet below the surface of the pond or lake in 
 which it is grown. 
 
 Valisneria spiralis (see page 354).— A slender- 
 growing dioecious plant, often grown in fresh-water 
 aquaria as a curiosity. Does best in fibrous loam. 
 Division. 
 
 More species might be added, but a selection from 
 the above will be amply sufficient for ordinary col- 
 lections. 
 
 PALMS AND CYCADS. 
 
 LIST SUITABLE FOR ROOM OR WINDOW CULTURE, OR FOR 
 OUTDOOR DECORATION DURING SUMMER. 
 
 (These plants stand dust well, but should be kept clean by being 
 sponged occasionally with clear soft water. ) 
 
 Areca lutescens 
 
 {I monostachys 
 Attalea nucifera 
 Carludovica palmata 
 
 II rotundifolia 
 
 Caryota furfuracea 
 II sobolifera 
 II urens 
 Ceroxylon andicola 
 Chameerops excelsa 
 II Fortune! 
 
 I, humilis 
 
 Chamserops macrocarpa 
 
 II palmetto 
 
 Cycas circinalis 
 II revoluta 
 Dion edule 
 Encephalartos horridus 
 
 II Altensteinii 
 
 II caffer 
 
 Kentia Baueri 
 II sapida 
 Livistonia australis 
 II borbonica 
 
374 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Livistonia rotundifolia 
 rr altissima 
 
 Phoenix dactylifera 
 II reclinata 
 II farinifera 
 11 sylvestris 
 
 Rhapis flabelliformis 
 11 humilis 
 
 Sabal Adansonii 
 II Blackbumiana 
 II umbraculifera 
 
 Seaforthia elegans 
 
 Thrinax radiata 
 
 Zamia Lemanii 
 II M'Kenii 
 
 FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 
 
 Ferns are easily raised from the dust-like seeds 
 (spores) found beneath their fronds. In order to 
 get them to germinate, if no better appliance is at 
 hand, get a wide -mouthed glass bottle, and fill it 
 half full of sandy peat. Press it down tolerably firm 
 and level, then scatter the spores over the soil, and 
 cork the bottle. In order to give them sufficient air, 
 either insert a quill through the cork, or cut one or 
 two nicks in the side with a sharp knife. When the 
 young plants are large enough for planting or potting, 
 break the bottle carefully, and then gently separate 
 the little plants. When the insides of glass shades 
 and room ferneries become covered with condensed 
 moisture, it is an excellent plan to wipe them quite 
 dry with a sponge or soft cloth. 
 
 LIST SUITABLE FOR ROOMS, WINDOWS, AND BALCONIES 
 DURING SUMMER. 
 
 (Those marked * do best in Wardian cases.) 
 
 * Adiantum assimile 
 
 capillus Veneris 
 
 colpodes 
 
 concinnum 
 
 II latum 
 
 cuneatum 
 decorum 
 
 Adiantum hispidulum 
 intermedium 
 macrophyllum 
 pedatum 
 reniforme 
 tenerum 
 tinctum 
 
LIST OF FERNS AND LYCOPODS. 
 
 375 
 
 * AnemiEedictyon phyllitidis 
 
 II fraxinifolium 
 
 * Asplenium adiantum-nigrum 
 
 II altemans 
 
 II auritum 
 
 II bulbiferum 
 
 M flaccidum 
 
 II furcatum 
 
 II nidus avis 
 
 II pulchellum 
 
 II trichomanes 
 
 Athyrium filix-foemina (many very 
 
 beautiful varieties) 
 Blechnum gracile 
 II lanceola 
 II occidentale 
 II spicant (hardy) 
 
 Cyrtomium falcatum 
 
 II caryotideum 
 
 * Davallia buUata 
 
 II canariense (Hare's- 
 foot) 
 II elegans 
 II II dissecta 
 
 II parvula 
 M pentaphylla 
 ^1, pyxidata 
 II solida 
 II tenuifolia 
 ,1 II stricta 
 
 * Dicksonia antarctica (Tree Fern, 
 
 very pretty in Wardian case 
 when in a young state) 
 Doodia aspera 
 
 II caudata 
 
 II dives 
 
 II lunulata 
 
 II media 
 
 * Doryopteris collina 
 
 II nobilis 
 
 ,1 palmata 
 
 M pedata 
 
 ,1 sagittsefolia 
 
 * Faydenia prolifera 
 Goniophlebium appendiculatum 
 
 Goniophlebium Catherinse 
 
 II subauriculatum 
 
 II squammatum 
 
 * Hemionites cordata 
 
 II palmata 
 
 * Humata (Davallia) alpina 
 
 II heterophylla 
 II pedata 
 Hymenodium crinitum 
 
 * Hymenophyllum asplenioides 
 demissum 
 flabellatum 
 flexuosum 
 hirtellum 
 
 Luschnatianum 
 polyantlios 
 Tunbridgense 
 (These must be grown in a genial 
 
 heat, and humid atmosphere. ) 
 Lastriea atrata 
 
 II dilatata (hardy) 
 II filix-mas 
 (The two last species are hardy, 
 and sport into many beautiful 
 and interesting varieties) 
 Lastraea glabella 
 II opaca 
 
 * Leucostegia immersa 
 
 * Lindsea cultrata 
 Lomaria alpina 
 
 II attenuata 
 II Chiliensis 
 II lanceolata 
 II L'Herminierii 
 II nuda 
 
 * Lygodium palmatum 
 
 11 scandens 
 
 (These are beautiful climbing 
 
 Ferns, and do well in a close 
 
 case. ) 
 Nephrodium molle 
 
 * Nephrolepis pectinata 
 
 11 tuberosa 
 
 Niphobolus lingua 
 
 11 corymbiferum 
 
376 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Phlebodium aureum 
 
 II sporodacarpum 
 
 (Two strong-growing Ferns, of a 
 bluish-green colour, grow well 
 in the drawing-room window. ) 
 
 * Platycerium alcicorne 
 
 II biforme 
 
 II grande 
 
 11 stemmaria 
 
 (Stag's-horn Ferns ; very distinct, 
 and grow well in a Wardian 
 case.) 
 Polypodium vulgare 
 
 (Many fine varieties, all hardy.) 
 Polystichum angulare 
 
 (Many elegant varieties. ) 
 Polystichum capensis 
 
 II lonchitis (Holly 
 
 Pern) 
 Pteris arguta 
 
 * II argyrea 
 
 * II cretica 
 
 * II albo lineata 
 II longifolia 
 
 11 serrulata (one of the best 
 for cutting; several varieties) 
 II tremula 
 
 II straminea (this last stands 
 well when cut) 
 Scolopendrium (Harf s-tongue) 
 II vulgare 
 
 (Many elegant varieties.) 
 
 * Todea superba 
 
 II pellucida 
 (Two fine elegantly cut Ferns, for 
 
 a cool and very moist plant- 
 case.) 
 
 * Trichomanes crispum 
 
 II radicans 
 
 II reniforme 
 
 II venosum 
 
 Woodwardia radicans 
 II orientalis 
 
 (Strong-growing Ferns, of elegant 
 habit, fine for a drawing-room 
 vase.) 
 
 Lycopods. 
 
 * Lycopodium dendroideum 
 
 * Selaginella africana 
 
 11 apoda (densa) 
 
 II atro-viridis 
 
 II csesia 
 
 11 II arborea 
 
 II caulescens 
 
 II cuspidata 
 
 II denticulata 
 
 II elongata 
 
 11 erythropus 
 
 II Martensii 
 
 II II variegata 
 
 II mutabilis 
 
 II sarmentosa 
 
 II serpens 
 
 (These graceful little plants are 
 well adapted for a humid and 
 moderately warm case, where 
 they keep fresh and green all 
 the year.) 
 
LIST OF SUCCULENT PLANTS. 
 
 377 
 
 SUCCULENT PLANTS. 
 
 LIST SUITABLE FOR WINDOW-CULTURE, OR FOR BALCONIES, 
 DURING SUMMER. 
 
 (All succulents stand dust well, and should be placed in the hottest 
 and driest position, fully exposed to the sun. Keep clean by sponging, 
 and give no water during the dull winter months. ) 
 
 Agave Americana 
 
 variegata 
 
 striata 
 
 mediopicta 
 
 potatorum 
 
 Humboldtii 
 
 horrida 
 
 glaucescens 
 
 filifera 
 
 Saundersii 
 
 Mastersii 
 
 Hookerii 
 
 Celsiana 
 
 dealbata 
 
 xylacantha 
 
 Verschaffeltii 
 
 Besseriana 
 
 Karatoo 
 
 Smithii 
 
 Seemanii 
 
 ensiforme 
 
 And many others. 
 Aloe picta 
 II variegata 
 II serrulata , 
 
 II prolifera 
 II frutescens 
 II soccotrina 
 II arborescens 
 II ferox 
 II supra-lsevis 
 II Salm Dyckiana 
 II caesia 
 II caesia elatior 
 
 Aloe Africana 
 lineata 
 I ciliaris 
 I tenuior 
 I consobrina 
 grandidentata 
 Beaucarnea recurvata 
 II tuberculata 
 II glauca 
 
 ri longifolia 
 II stricta 
 
 Bryophyllum calycinum 
 II proliferum 
 
 Cereus strigosus 
 Tweideii 
 cinerascens 
 flagelliforme 
 repens 
 monstrosus 
 Cotyledon coruscans 
 II orbiculata 
 II pulverulenta 
 II fulgens 
 II undulata 
 II gracilis 
 II mammillaris 
 II II cristata 
 
 Crassula lactea 
 II cordata 
 II perfoliata 
 II coccinea 
 II retusa 
 II pyramidalis 
 II rosularis 
 
378 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Crassula multiceps 
 
 II lycopodioides 
 Echinopsis multiplex 
 ri oxygona 
 II Eyriesii 
 
 ' II Zuccariniana 
 II tubiflora 
 
 II Schellhasii 
 
 Echinocactus Californicus 
 II mamillosus 
 
 II scopa 
 
 II II cristata 
 
 II comigerus 
 
 II ourselianus 
 
 II hexsedrophorus 
 
 11 Ottonis 
 
 II uncinatus 
 
 II omatus 
 
 And several other species. 
 Echinocereus pectinatus 
 II Labouretii 
 
 II texensis 
 
 M viridiflorus 
 
 Epiphyllum truncatum 
 
 II ti violaceum 
 
 II II Snowii 
 
 II II splendens 
 
 II II aurantiacum 
 
 II II other va- 
 
 rieties 
 II Russellianum 
 
 Echeveria agavoides 
 II Califomica 
 II secunda 
 II II glauca 
 
 II II retusa 
 
 11 II metallica 
 
 II II atro sanguinea 
 
 II metallica 
 II bracteosa 
 II fiilgens 
 II pubescens 
 II velutina 
 II canaliculata 
 II pumila 
 
 Echeveria pulverulenta (rare) 
 
 II globosa 
 Euphorbia caput Medusae 
 
 II Commelini 
 
 II meloformis 
 
 II splendens 
 
 II Bojeri 
 
 II bupleurifolia 
 Gasteria pulchra 
 
 II bicolor 
 
 II macula ta 
 
 II subnigricans 
 
 II Bowieana 
 
 II verrucosa 
 
 II glabra 
 
 II undata 
 
 II albicans 
 
 II lingua 
 
 II acinacifolia 
 
 II Croucheri (rare) 
 
 II candicans 
 
 II trigona 
 
 II nitida 
 
 II carinata 
 
 II prolifera 
 
 II spiralis 
 Haworthia concinna 
 
 II torquata 
 
 II mirabilis 
 
 II turgida 
 
 II arachnoides 
 
 II translucens 
 
 II margaritifera 
 
 II subulata 
 Kalanchoe jEgyptiaca 
 
 II crenata 
 
 II laciniata 
 Kleinia repens 
 
 II ficoides 
 
 II tomentosa 
 
 II fulgens 
 
 II articulata 
 
 II papillaris 
 
 II neriifolia 
 
LIST OF SUCCULENT PLANTS. 
 
 379 
 
 Mammillaria 
 
 stellaris 
 
 decipiens 
 
 crucigera 
 
 acanthophlegma 
 
 discolor 
 
 angularis 
 
 densa 
 
 Parkinsoni 
 
 auriceps 
 
 elephantidens 
 
 spinosissima 
 
 gracilis 
 
 polyedra 
 
 Stella aurata 
 
 Straminea 
 
 coronaria 
 
 pusilla 
 
 bicolor 
 
 nivea 
 ri longispina 
 
 rhodanthe 
 
 stellata 
 
 Wildiana 
 
 phymatotliele 
 
 flavescens 
 
 Newmannii 
 
 cirrifera 
 
 mutabilis 
 
 comifera 
 
 Schiediana 
 
 echinata 
 
 erecta 
 
 caput MedusK 
 Melocactus communis {Turk's cap) 
 Mesembryanthemum minutum 
 
 obcordellum 
 
 octophyllum 
 
 tigrinum 
 
 maximum 
 
 densum 
 
 amoenum 
 
 blandum 
 
 lacerum 
 
 conspicuum 
 
 Mesembryanthemum formosum 
 11 imbricans 
 
 II polyanthum 
 
 11 aureum 
 
 II roseum 
 
 II incurvum 
 
 II lepidum 
 
 11 retroflexum 
 
 11 aurantiacum 
 
 II barbatum 
 
 II dolabriforme 
 
 II stellatum 
 
 Opuntia cylindrica 
 tuna 
 
 Missouriensis 
 clavarioides 
 
 11 cristata 
 
 vulgaris 
 Rafienesquiana 
 microdasys 
 corrugata 
 Pereskia aculeata 
 
 II grandiflora 
 Pilocereus senilis 
 Phyllacactus Ackermannii 
 11 anguliger 
 
 II crenatus 
 
 II hybridus 
 
 II oxypetalum 
 
 II Parkinsonii 
 
 II speciosus 
 
 (These are the well-known 
 " Cactuses " often cultivated 
 in cottage windows, where 
 they produce their scarlet, 
 white, or soft rosy-lilac flow- 
 ers very freely during the 
 summer months. ) 
 Pachyphyton bracteosum 
 II linguum 
 
 „ roseum 
 
 Portulaca grandiflora 
 II Thellusonii 
 II Gilliesii 
 II grandis 
 
38o 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Portulaca grandis rosea 
 n variegata 
 M Thornburnii 
 „ aurantiaca 
 II aurea 
 And many beautiful varieties. 
 Rhipsalis funalis 
 
 II IP gracilis 
 
 II cassytha 
 M saglionis 
 II saliconioides 
 II Swartziana 
 II pachyptera 
 Rochia falcata 
 II perfoliata 
 II albiflora 
 Sempervivum tectorum 
 calcareum 
 hirtum 
 aureum 
 arachnoideum 
 montanum 
 tabulare 
 subtabuliforme 
 canariense 
 velutinum 
 arboreum 
 
 II variegatum 
 pumilum 
 holochrysum 
 ciliatum 
 glutinosum 
 Stapelia maculata 
 II hirsuta 
 
 Stapelia Plantii 
 
 grandiflora 
 hystrix 
 reflexa 
 variegata 
 Buffonis 
 Europea 
 asterias 
 lucida 
 deflexa 
 Sedum spectabile 
 II Sieboldii 
 II II variegatum 
 
 II sempervivum 
 II pulchellum 
 II oppositifolium 
 II dasyphyllum 
 II hirsutum 
 II villosum 
 Yucca aloifolia 
 
 II II variegata 
 II II quadricolor 
 
 II gloriosa 
 II ilaccida 
 II recurvata 
 II filamentosa 
 II glaucescens 
 
 (For the above List of Succu- 
 lents I am in part indebted to 
 Mr J. Croucher, formerly of the 
 Royal Gardens, Kew, and one of 
 our best practical authorities on 
 these interesting plants. ) 
 
LIST OF FOLIAGErPLANTS. 
 
 381 
 
 FOLIAGE-PLANTS. 
 
 LIST SUITABLE FOR THE WARDIAN CASE OR WINDOW 
 CONSERVATORY, 
 
 Alocasia Jenningsii 
 Bertolonia guttata 
 
 n margaritacea 
 
 Cephalotus foUicularis 
 Cyperus alternifolius 
 
 11 II variegatus 
 
 Dionsea muscipula {Fly-trap) 
 Doi"stenia argentea maculata 
 Dracaena feiTea 
 
 marginata 
 
 II gracilis 
 
 terminalis 
 rubra 
 congesta 
 And many others, all being easily 
 
 grown. 
 Drosera (Sundews) 
 II capensis 
 II dichotoma 
 II spathulata 
 II rotundifolia (common) 
 II longifolia 
 Dioscorea batatas {Chinese yam) 
 (Tubers of this elegant plant 
 grow well in moss and water 
 in an ornamental drawing- 
 room vase.) 
 Eranthemum sanguineolenteum' 
 Ficus barbatus 
 II elasticus 
 
 Ficus repens 
 Fittonia argyroneura 
 
 II Pearcei 
 Higginsia refulgens 
 Maranta illustris 
 II omata 
 II roseopicta 
 II vittata 
 II faciata 
 Panicum variegatum 
 Pothos argyrea 
 Sarracenia Drummondii 
 II flava 
 
 II purpurea 
 
 II variolaris 
 
 (These are easily grown in a 
 close case, and are highly 
 interesting, their leaves re- 
 sembling purple or green 
 pitchers.) 
 Sonerila margaritacea 
 Tradescantea zebrina 
 
 II M variegata 
 
 Vitis heterophylla variegata (a 
 very elegant creeper, the foli- 
 age blotched with white ting- 
 ed with purple. Stems and 
 tendrils also purple. Several 
 other small-leaved Vines are 
 very ornamental.) 
 
 FOLIAGE-PLANTS FOR THE WINDOW IN WINTER OR THE 
 BALCONY DURING SUMMER. 
 
 Agaves and Aloes (many kinds) 
 Aralia crassifolia 
 
 I, heteromorpha 
 
 II papyrifera 
 
 II Sieboldii 
 
 Aralia Sieboldii variegata 
 
 II trifoliata 
 Aspidestra lurida variegata 
 
 II elatior n 
 
 Bambusa Fortunei n 
 
382 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Eambusa nigra 
 Dammara ovata 
 
 II robusta 
 Dracaena australis 
 M draco 
 If Veitchii 
 Farfugium grande 
 Ficus elastica 
 II Chauvierii 
 And other varieties. 
 Grevillea robusta 
 Hedera — see Hardy Climbers 
 
 Isolepis (pygmsea) gracilis 
 Myrtus communis 
 
 II II angustifolia 
 
 II II latifolia 
 
 Phormium tenax (New Zealand 
 Max) 
 II II variegatum 
 
 Richardia Eethiopica ( White 
 Trumpet- Lily) 
 ti albo maculata 
 Yuccas — see List of Succulent 
 Plants 
 
 HARDY CLIMBING AND TRAILING PLANTS FOR 
 WALLS AND TRELLISES. 
 
 Ampelopsis hederacea 
 II Japonica 
 
 II Veitchii 
 
 Aristolochia sipho 
 
 II tomentosa 
 
 Berberidopsis corallina 
 Bignonia radicans 
 Calycanthus occidentalis (this is 
 commonly called "Carolina 
 allspice," and bears its large 
 crimson purple flowers all 
 through the summer. They 
 are very aromatic.) 
 Calystegla pubescens 
 II dahurica 
 II sepium 
 Chimonanthus fragrans 
 
 11 II grandiflorum 
 
 Clematis Candida (white) 
 Florida n 
 Fortuneii (double white) 
 Jackmannii (purple) 
 lanuginosa (blue) 
 magnifica (purple) 
 Reginae (mauve), and many 
 other hybrid varieties, all in- 
 valuable for trellis-work. 
 
 Clianthus Dampierii {Silver-leaved 
 Glory Pea), one of the most 
 gorgeous of all plants. 
 
 Clianthus puniceus (this has bright 
 green foliage, and flowers well 
 outside in waim sheltered 
 situations. Like the last it 
 has bright crimson - scarlet 
 flowers in dense clusters, but 
 in this species they are devoid 
 of the bluish-black blotch or 
 boss so prominent in C. Dam- 
 pierii.) 
 
 Corchorus Japonicus 
 
 II II fl. pi. 
 
 Cbtoneaster buxifolia 
 II microphylla 
 
 II Simmondsii 
 
 Crataegus pyracantha (fine clusters 
 of scarlet berries) 
 
 Coprosma Baueriana (one of the 
 very best of all glossy-leaved 
 climbers for a warm sunny 
 wall) 
 
 Cydonia (Pyrus) Japonica (one of 
 the finest spring - flowering 
 shrubs for a wall) 
 
LIST OF HARDY CLIMBING PLANTS. 
 
 383 
 
 Edwardsia microphylla 
 Escallonia macrantha (fine glossy 
 foliage) 
 IP rubra 
 
 Euonymus Japonicus 
 
 " 11 fol. argenteis var. 
 
 PI pp aureis-raaculatis 
 
 pp pp radicans 
 
 pp pp albo-marginatus 
 
 (These are among the finest of 
 all glossy-leaved evergreens 
 for covering walls, or for pot- 
 culture and window-boxes in 
 winter. ) 
 Habrothamnus corymbosus 
 Hedera (all evergreen) 
 PI albo-marginata 
 IP Algeriensis 
 pp pp variegata 
 
 pp argentea 
 pp argenteo-marginata 
 PI aureo-marginata 
 11 baccifera lutea 
 IP Canariensis aureo-maculata 
 pp Cavendishii 
 pp digitata 
 pp donerailensis 
 pp helix {English Ivy) 
 IP pp aurea densa 
 pp IP pp IP minor 
 pp pp maculata 
 pp IP gracilis 
 IP PI minima 
 IP pp elegantissima 
 pp II latifolia 
 IP pp major 
 ,1 II pulchella 
 II II rhombifolia variegata 
 1, II rubra argentea 
 II Hibemica (Irish) 
 ,1 II aurea-maculata 
 
 I, II marmorata 
 
 II Japonica argentea 
 „ II elegantissima 
 
 ,1 II fol. variegatis 
 
 Hedera Japonica marmorata ele- 
 gans 
 PI M palmata-aurea 
 
 pp pp Pennsylvanica 
 
 II 11 RjEgneriana 
 
 II 11 rhomboidea obovata 
 
 II II sagittEefolia 
 
 11 IP spectabilis 
 
 IP IP tricolor variegata 
 
 Jasminium {yasmine) nudiflorum 
 pp officinale (white Jasmine) 
 PI revolutum (yellow) 
 pp grandiflorum (white) 
 
 Lonicera (Honeysuckles or Wood- 
 bines) 
 pp brachypoda 
 PI 11 aurea-reticulata 
 
 IP flexuosa 
 PI fuchsioides 
 II Japonica 
 II Magnevilleii 
 IP pubescens 
 IP sempervirens 
 PI Standishii 
 
 Lycium barbarum (Tea -tree or 
 Common Box-Thorn) 
 
 Magnolia conspicua 
 pp grandiflora 
 IP Lenne 
 11 macrophylla 
 PI purpurea 
 IP glauca 
 IP Soulangeana 
 (These last are glossy - leaved 
 plants, bearing large white or 
 purple flowers deliciously per- 
 fumed. M. grandiflora is a 
 specially valuable evergreen 
 for the front of the house or 
 anywhere on a warm sunny 
 wall. Plant in deep sandy 
 loam.) 
 
 Menispermum Canadense (fine 
 foliage, something like the 
 Aristolochias) 
 
384 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 Passiflora {Passion-flower) 
 
 ri ccerulea (an elegant 
 
 climber bearing white and 
 blue radiate flowers all the 
 summer. Sunny wall in 
 loam.) 
 
 Punica granatum [Pomegranate), 
 a glossy - leaved plant, well 
 suited for a wall in warm 
 districts, or for pot-culture 
 indoors. 
 
 Pyrus — see Cydonia 
 
 RosaFortuneana (Fortune' s Double 
 Yellow) 
 II Banksise 
 
 II Devoniensis (climbing) 
 II Gloire de Dijon and many 
 other varieties 
 
 Solanum Jasminioides (one of the 
 finest of all hardy climbers on 
 a warm south wall. It flowers 
 freely up to November. ) 
 II pseudo capsicum (another 
 species bearing fine crops of 
 orange-scarlet berries in au- 
 tumn. Does well on a warm 
 border and also in pots.) 
 
 Veronica Andersonii 
 
 II II variegata (a 
 
 fine variety bearing numerous 
 spikes of bright purple flowers 
 like the last. Its leaves are 
 blotched or margined with 
 creamy white. ) 
 II lobelioides 
 II decussata 
 II angustifolia 
 Vitis vinifera (Grape Vine) 
 
 II vulpina (Fox-Grapes) 
 
 (These and the Canadian Vine 
 are strong and elegant decidu- 
 ous climbers, perfectly hardy.) 
 
 (The common Fig-tree (Ficus 
 carica) has fine-lobed foliage, 
 and makes a noble hardy 
 climber on a warm wall, be- 
 sides often aifording abund- 
 ant crops of luscious fruit. 
 It is well worth culture as a 
 fine foliage-plant.) 
 
 All the above do well oii a warm 
 sunny wall in sandy loam, and 
 they are well adapted for pot- 
 culture. 
 
 LIST OF ORCHIDS 
 
 THAT MAY BE GROWN IN THE GENERAL ATMOSPHERE OF A 
 DRAWING-ROOM CASE OR SHADE. 
 
 (Temperature not below 40° nor above 50° during winter. 
 Keep always moderately moist.) 
 
 We are frequently told that Orchids require houses 
 to themselves, but really, in all truth, a greater or 
 more absurd fallacy could not easily be promulgated. 
 One would almost be led to infer from' this that 
 Orchids were exclusive, and occupied some particular 
 
LIST OF ORCHIDS. 
 
 38s 
 
 portions of our globe, to the utter exclusion of all 
 other vegetation. We can gi;ow the Palms, Melasto- 
 mads, Begonias, Ferns, and Peperomias, in an ordi- 
 nary plant-house ; but the Orchids which have grown 
 side by side with them in their native habitats must 
 be placed in a structure called an " Orchid-house" ere 
 they can be expected to succeed in our gardens at 
 home. There are hundreds of plant-stoves in this 
 country in which Orchids might be grown as well as 
 in the best Orchid-house ever made, were it not for 
 the superstitious principles entertained by many on 
 the above point. It may be taken as a rule that 
 wherever tropical Ferns and fine foliage-plants suc- 
 ceed, there also Orchids, or at least many of them, 
 would luxuriate often with far greater chance of suc- 
 cess than when placed in our so-called Orchid-house, 
 which, however desirable, is not absolutely essential 
 to Orchid-culture. 
 
 Barkeria Skinnerii 
 II spectabilis 
 Cypripedium barbatum 
 II spectabile 
 
 II venustum 
 
 II insigne 
 
 II villosum 
 
 II hirsutissimum 
 
 II Schlimmii 
 
 Dendrobium nobile 
 
 „ transparens 
 
 ,1 heterocarpum 
 
 Lycaste Skinnerii 
 II aromatica 
 II cruenta 
 Masdevallia Lindenii 
 ,1 tovarensis 
 
 ,1 ignea 
 
 (These are very cool growing 
 
 plants, and will grow freely in 
 a close humid case.) 
 Oncidium flexuosum 
 II obryzatum 
 Odontoglossum Alexandrae 
 II Pescatorei 
 
 II nebulosum 
 
 II Lindleyana 
 
 II gr^nde 
 
 (Nearly all the species of this 
 group may be grown in a case 
 or under a shade.) 
 Pleione maculata 
 II Wallichii 
 Sophronites cernua 
 
 II grandiflora 
 
 (These grow best on flat blocks 
 of wood suspended on tlie 
 sides of the case. ) 
 
 2 B 
 
386 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 SELECT LIST OF ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. 
 (Those marked * are perennials; t specially adapted for bouquets.) 
 
 
 Feet 
 
 
 Feet 
 
 
 high. 
 
 
 high. 
 
 Agrostis argentea 
 
 
 Eragrostis inconspicua 
 
 2 
 
 * 11 nebulosa 
 
 ly. 
 
 II namaquensis 
 
 2 
 
 II plumosa 
 
 
 11 pectinata . 
 
 2 
 
 + 11 pulchella (syn. A. 
 
 
 1, Purshii 
 
 I 
 
 tenella) 
 
 'A 
 
 11 suaveolens 
 
 
 Anthoxanthum gracile 
 
 I 
 
 11 thephrosanthes . 
 
 2 
 
 Brachypodium distachium . 
 
 I 
 
 Festuca glauca 
 
 
 M pinnatum 
 
 % 
 
 Hordeum jubatum 
 
 2 
 
 + Briza compacta [Quaking- 
 
 
 11 myuroides . 
 
 2 
 
 grass) .... 
 
 u 
 
 Isolepis gracilis 
 
 
 + 11 gracilis . 
 
 Ya 
 
 + Lagurus ovatus {Haris- 
 
 
 t 11 maxima, splendid for 
 
 
 tail) .... 
 
 I 
 
 bouquets . 
 
 2 
 
 Lappago racemosa, dwarf, 
 
 
 t ... minima . 
 
 I 
 
 very fine 
 
 Ya 
 
 Brizopyrum siculum . 
 
 2% 
 
 t Leptochloa gracilis 
 
 
 +* Bromus brizBeformis 
 
 I 
 
 II tenerrima 
 
 I^ 
 
 M macrostachya 
 
 ^y^ 
 
 * Molinia cserulea fol. var. 
 
 I 
 
 Chloris cylindriflora . 
 
 2 
 
 Muhlenbergia diffusa, very 
 
 
 II fimbriata 
 
 2 
 
 fine .... 
 
 I^ 
 
 11 polystachia . 
 
 2 
 
 ■(■ Panicum variegatum 
 
 
 Chrysurus cynosuroides, 
 
 
 + 11 sulcatum 
 
 
 splendid for bouquets . 
 
 Yat 
 
 Pennisetum longistylum 
 
 3 
 
 * Cyperus papyrus 
 
 2 
 
 Phalaris minor, dwarf 
 
 I 
 
 Deyeuxia retrofracta . 
 
 IK 
 
 Setaria aurea 
 
 ^y^ 
 
 Diplachne fascicularis 
 
 2 
 
 11 glauca . 
 
 2^ 
 
 Eleusine coracana 
 
 ^% 
 
 11 macrochseta 
 
 
 11 indica . 
 
 I^ 
 
 +* Stipa elegantissima 
 
 2 
 
 II oligostachya 
 
 I 
 
 11 pennata {Feather- 
 
 
 Eragrostis jEgyptiaca 
 
 2^ 
 
 grass) . . . . 
 
 2K 
 
 + II elegans (Love-grass) 
 
 2 
 
 Zea japonica foliis variegatis 
 
 3 
 
 These plants are very elegant in habit when grow- 
 ing ; and their feathery plumes or drooping panicles 
 are very beautiful for winter decorations, bouquets, 
 or as chimney-piece ornaments for vases. 
 
LIST OF HARDY ANNUALS. 
 
 387 
 
 LIST OF HARDY ANNUALS. 
 
 Sow in pots of light earth in March, or in the open 
 border during April and may [see Propagation). 
 
 Alyssum calycinum 
 Amaranthus atropurpureus 
 
 II caudatus 
 
 Antirrhinum majus 
 Artemesia annua 
 Atriplex hortensis rubra 
 Candytuft (Iberis) 
 Clarkia elegans 
 
 II pulchella 
 Cochlearia acaulis 
 Collinsia bicolor 
 
 II vema 
 
 II violacea 
 Convolvulus tricolor 
 Coreopsis tinctoria 
 Delphinium consolidum 
 Gypsophila elegans 
 
 II saxifraga 
 
 Helianthus argophyllus 
 II annuus 
 
 M Indicus 
 
 Helichrysum of sorts 
 Hibiscus africanus 
 Hyoscyamus pictus 
 Lathyrus azureus 
 Leptosiphon rosaceus 
 
 II aureus 
 
 Linaria cymbalaria 
 Linum grandiilorum rubrum 
 Loasa (laterita) tricolor 
 
 „ Herbertii 
 Lupinus albo-coccineus 
 
 I, Hartwegi 
 
 I, hirsutus 
 
 ,1 hybridus of sorts 
 
 Marigolds. French of sorts 
 Mathiola bicomis 
 
 II tricuspidata 
 II triste 
 Mignonette (Reseda adorata) 
 Mimulus hybridus 
 
 II moschatus (Musi) 
 II cupreus 
 Nasturtium (Tropaeolum) of sorts 
 Nemophila atomaria 
 II insignis 
 
 II maculata 
 Oxalis comiculata rubra 
 Platystemon californicum 
 Pyrethrum Golden Feather 
 Saponaria calabrica 
 
 II II alba 
 
 Schizopetalon Walkeri 
 Sedum azureum 
 Senecio elegans 
 
 II Jacobsea 
 Silene armaria 
 II pendala 
 Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus) 
 Tagetes lucida 
 
 Tropseolum perigrinum (Canary- 
 flcrwer) 
 II majus of sorts 
 
 Virginian Stock (Malcolmia) 
 Viscaria elegans 
 II oculata 
 II splendens 
 Wall-flower (Cheiranthus cheiri) 
 Whitlavia gloxinioides 
 II grandiflora 
 
388 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 LIST OF HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 
 
 Sow in a gentle heat in March (see Propagation), 
 and prick off into pans of light earth when they have 
 three or four leaves each. Plant out in the open bor- 
 der or balcony boxes in May. 
 
 Acroclinium roseum 
 
 II II album 
 
 Alonsoa Warszewiczii 
 
 II II compacta 
 
 Amaranthus salicifolius 
 Anagallis gi-andiflora 
 
 II II Brewerii 
 
 II Indica 
 Asters of sorts 
 
 Balsam (Impatiens balsaminea) 
 Celosia pyramidalis 
 
 II aurea 
 
 M coccinea 
 
 II versicolor 
 
 cristata {Cockscomb) 
 Huttoni 
 Clianthus Dampierii 
 Clintonia pulchella 
 
 II elegans 
 Cucumis perennis 
 Godelia Whitleyi 
 Gomphrena globosa 
 Gossypium Barbadense (Cotton- 
 plant) 
 II herbaceum 
 
 Gourds, many kinds 
 Helipterum Sandfordi 
 Impatiens glanduligera 
 Ipomcea of sorts 
 Lagenaria (Bottle - gourds) of 
 
 sorts 
 Lobelia erinus speciosa 
 II gracilis 
 II of sorts 
 Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
 
 Mesembryanthemum cordifolium 
 variegatum 
 II crystallinura 
 
 II tricolor 
 
 Mormordica charantia 
 II elaterium 
 
 Nicotiana glauca ( Tobacco-plant) 
 
 II rustica 
 Nierembergia frutescens 
 
 M gracilis 
 
 Oxalis rosea 
 Palava flexuosa 
 Perilla nankinensis 
 Petunia hybrida (mixed) 
 Phaseolus coccineus 
 Phlox Drummondii of sorts 
 Phygelius capensis 
 Physalis alkekengi 
 
 II edulis 
 Phytolacca decandria 
 Portulacca aurea 
 
 II caryophylloides 
 
 II Thellusoni 
 11 Thombumi 
 II grandiflora (mixed) 
 Rhodanthe atrosanguinea 
 II maculata 
 
 II II alba 
 
 II Manglesii 
 
 Ricinus communis (Castor-oil) 
 
 II of sorts 
 Schizanthus pinnatus 
 
 II retusus 
 
 Scotanthus tubiflorus 
 Statice spicata 
 
LIST OF SEEDS FOR AUTUMN SOWING. 
 
 389 
 
 Tagetes signata pumila 
 Thunbergia alata 
 Trichosanthes anguinea (Snake- 
 gourd) 
 Tropseolum Lobbianum 
 
 If minus (of sorts) 
 
 Vinca rosea 
 
 Vinca alba 
 
 Waitzia corymbosa 
 11 grandiflora 
 
 Xeranthemum annuum 
 II II 
 
 II of sorts 
 
 Zinnea elegans of sorts 
 
 album 
 
 SEEDS FOR AUTUMN SOWING. 
 
 Many of the following hardy plants, if sown in a 
 warm, dry, sunny border, will flower well in the 
 spring, or much earlier than it is possible for plants 
 to do which are sown in March or April. Nature's 
 plan is to sow her seeds as soon as ripe ; and she can 
 often be imitated with advantage in the case of hardy 
 annuals, perennials, and other decorative plants. 
 With a selection from the following short list alone, 
 it is possible, indeed easy, to keep the window-boxes 
 or balcony gay for at least nine months of the year. 
 Some of those sown in the autumn flower early in 
 spring ; and the same kinds sown in spring will bloom 
 during the summer and autumn. They will grow in 
 ordinary garden soil. 
 
 Alyssum maritimum (sweet), 
 white .... 
 Asperula azurea setosa, light 
 blue .... 
 Bartonia aurea, orange 
 Calandrinia speciosa, rose . 
 II umbellata, crimson 
 Calliopsis coronata, yellow 
 spotted . 
 „ tinctoria, yellow 
 
 and brown 
 Campanula carpatica, blue 
 „ 11 alba, white 
 
 Feet 
 high. 
 
 Feet 
 high. 
 
 Campanula pentagonia, purple % 
 II 11 alba, white % 
 
 I 
 
 Candytuft, dark crimson or 
 
 purple . . .1 
 II lilac . . I 
 
 % 
 
 11 sweet-scented . i 
 
 'A 
 
 II white rocket . i 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 % 
 
 Centranthus macrosiphon, red 1 % 
 Clarkia pulchella, rose . 1 
 .-<,i II alba, white 1 
 CoUinsia bicolor, purple and 
 
 white . I 
 
 A 
 
 II II alba, white i 
 
39° 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 
 Feet 
 
 
 Feet 
 
 
 high. 
 
 
 high. 
 
 CoUinsia grandiflora, purple 
 
 I>^ 
 
 Lupinus nanus albus, white 
 
 I 
 
 II vema, blue & white 
 
 I 
 
 Mignonette, buff 
 
 I 
 
 Eiysimum Peroffskianum, 
 
 
 II large-flowered, buff 
 
 I 
 
 orange 
 
 ^% 
 
 II new pyramidal, 
 
 
 II arkansanum, 
 
 
 orange .... 
 
 I 
 
 yellow . 
 
 ^% 
 
 Myosotis dissitiflora 
 
 
 Eschscholtzia californica, 
 
 
 II sylvatica 
 
 U 
 
 yellow . 
 
 I 
 
 11 11 alba 
 
 u 
 
 If crocea, orange 
 
 I 
 
 Nemophila atomaria, white, 
 
 
 II It alba, 
 
 
 spotted . 
 
 I 
 
 white . 
 
 I 
 
 11 discoidalis, black 
 
 
 Eutoca viscida, dark blue . 
 
 I 
 
 and white 
 
 % 
 
 Gilia tricolor, white, lilac. 
 
 
 II insignis, blue . 
 
 'A 
 
 and purple 
 
 l^ 
 
 II maculata, white 
 
 
 11 11 alba, white . 
 
 iK 
 
 and purple 
 
 % 
 
 II 11 rosea splen- 
 
 
 Nolana lanceolata, blue 
 
 Yz 
 
 dens, rose 
 
 1% 
 
 Peas, Sweet, mixed . 
 
 6 
 
 Godetia rosea alba, rose and 
 
 
 11 11 Invincible Scar- 
 
 
 white 
 
 1% 
 
 let, fine .... 
 
 6 
 
 11 rubicunda, rosy 
 
 
 Platystemon califomicum, 
 
 
 crimson . 
 
 1% 
 
 yellow .... 
 
 I 
 
 11 The Bride, white 
 
 
 Prince's Feather (Amaran- 
 
 
 and crimson . 
 
 1% 
 
 thus), giant crimson 
 
 3 
 
 Kaulfussia amelloides, blue 
 
 U 
 
 Pyrethrum Golden Feather, 
 
 
 Larkspur, dwarf rocket, 
 
 
 yellow foliage 
 
 I 
 
 finest mixed . 
 
 I 
 
 Saponaria calabrica, rose . 
 
 y^ 
 
 II tall rocket, 
 
 
 11 - 11 alba, white 
 
 % 
 
 finest mixed . 
 
 2 
 
 Silene pendula, pink . 
 
 I 
 
 Leptosiphondensiflorus, lilac 
 
 I 
 
 11 II alba, white 
 
 I 
 
 II 11 albus, 
 
 
 II 11 ruberrima. 
 
 
 white . 
 
 I 
 
 carmine rose . 
 
 % 
 
 11 aureus, orange 
 
 % 
 
 11 pseudo-atocion, rose 
 
 I 
 
 Limnanthes Douglasi, white 
 
 
 Stock," Intermediate, scarlet 
 
 iX 
 
 and yellow . 
 
 % 
 
 11 11 purple 
 
 iX 
 
 Lobelia erinus erecta, blue . 
 
 Vat 
 
 11 11 white 
 
 iX 
 
 11 11 11 alba. 
 
 X 
 
 11 Virginian, red 
 
 % 
 
 II 11 11 rosea 
 
 X 
 
 11 11 white 
 
 % 
 
 11 gracihs, blue . 
 
 K 
 
 Venus's Looking-glass, blue 
 
 % 
 
 II 11 alba . 
 
 % 
 
 11 II white 
 
 % 
 
 II Paxtoniana, blue 
 
 
 Viscaria oculata, rose, dark 
 
 
 and white . 
 
 K 
 
 eye .... 
 
 I 
 
 11 speciosa, dark blue 
 
 % 
 
 Whitl^via grandiflora, violet 
 
 I 
 
 Love-lies-bleeding, red 
 
 2 
 
 11 II alba. 
 
 
 Lupinus nanus, blue and white 
 
 I 
 
 white .... 
 
 I 
 
LIST OF HARDY PLANTS. 
 
 391 
 
 LIST OF HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS FOR WINDOW 
 AND BALCONY DECORATION. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Acanthus candelabrum . 
 Acorus gramineus fol. var. 
 
 ri japonicus h 
 Agapanthus nanus n 
 Agrostis vulgaris n 
 Anthyllis montana 
 Arabis lucida fol. var. . 
 
 M of sorts 
 Arnieria angustifolia 
 Artemisia frigida 
 
 II Villarsii 
 Aspidistra elatior variegata 
 
 II 11 aurea-punctata 
 
 Aubrietia Campbelli 
 
 If of sorts 
 Bambusa Fortunei fol. var. 
 II nigra . 
 II metake 
 II gracilis . 
 Bellis perennis aucubsefolia 
 II 11 conspicua 
 
 II II prolifera . 
 
 II II Snowflake 
 
 Betonica grandiflora 
 Calandrinia umbellata . 
 Caltha palustris fl. pi. . 
 
 II radicans . 
 Calystegia pubescens fl. pi. 
 
 „ sepium grandiflorum 
 
 II soldanella 
 Campanula Barrelieri 
 „ hirsuta 
 
 „ coUina 
 
 ,, Elatine 
 
 „ fragilis 
 
 „ II alba . 
 
 „ garganica 
 
 Height 
 in feet. 
 
 2-4 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 'X 
 
 I 
 10 
 
 X 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 I 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Foliage green 
 
 Var. foliage 
 
 II 
 
 Blue 
 
 Purple 
 
 Rose 
 Yellow 
 
 Blue 
 
 Red 
 
 Pink 
 White 
 
 II 
 II 
 
 Purple 
 
 August 
 
 Magenta 
 
 September 
 
 Yellow 
 
 March 
 
 II 
 
 April 
 
 Rose 
 
 July 
 
 White 
 
 August 
 
 lesh colour 
 
 June 
 
 Blue 
 II 
 
 August 
 
 II 
 Pale blue 
 
 M 
 
 Blue 
 
 II 
 
 White 
 
 II 
 
 Pale blue 
 
 II 
 
 Time of 
 flowering. 
 
 August 
 August 
 
 July 
 August 
 
 Ny 
 
 August 
 
 II 
 April 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
392 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 
 NamCi 
 
 Height 
 in feet. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Time of 
 flowering. 
 
 Campanula garganica alba 
 
 Vz 
 
 White 
 
 August 
 
 ir glomerata . 
 
 ^% 
 
 Purple 
 
 II 
 
 It pulla (very pretty) . 
 
 % 
 
 Blue 
 
 July 
 
 Centaurea Clementei 
 
 3 
 
 Yellow 
 
 II 
 
 Cerastium alpinum 
 
 Yz 
 
 White 
 
 II 
 
 Cheiranthus alpinus 
 
 'A 
 
 Yellow 
 
 • II 
 
 II Delayhanus . 
 
 Ya, 
 
 Purple 
 
 June 
 
 II longifolius . 
 
 I 
 
 Puce 
 
 July 
 
 II Marshalll . 
 
 % 
 
 Orange 
 
 IT 
 
 ti ochroleucus . 
 
 I 
 
 Yellow 
 
 August 
 
 Cineraria acanthifolia 
 
 2 
 
 II 
 
 July 
 
 II maritima 
 
 1% 
 
 II 
 
 August 
 
 Convallaria majalis (Lily of tki 
 
 
 
 
 Valley) 
 
 I 
 
 White 
 
 June 
 
 Convolvulus mauritanicus 
 
 11 
 
 Blue 
 
 It 
 
 Cortusa Mathioli 
 
 % 
 
 Red 
 
 May 
 
 Corydalis nobilis 
 
 lA 
 
 Yellow 
 
 July 
 
 Cyclamen Atkinsii 
 
 X 
 
 White and rose 
 
 April 
 
 II II roseum 
 
 n 
 
 Rose 
 
 It 
 
 II II carneum 
 
 IT 
 
 Flesh 
 
 ti 
 
 II europeum 
 
 n 
 
 Red 
 
 August 
 
 II hedersefolium . 
 
 A 
 
 Rose 
 
 October 
 
 ti II album 
 
 
 White 
 
 ti 
 
 II II grgecum 
 
 ti 
 
 Red 
 
 April 
 
 Dactylis elegantissima . 
 
 ^Y 
 
 
 
 Dianthus (Pinks), many free 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 flowering hybrids 
 
 I 
 
 Rose or white 
 
 June 
 
 Dielytra spectabilis 
 
 2 
 
 Pink 
 
 July 
 
 11 II alba . 
 
 II 
 
 White 
 
 II 
 
 Dodecatheon media 
 
 I 
 
 Red 
 
 tt 
 
 Draba agoides . 
 
 X 
 
 Yellow 
 
 May 
 
 Equisetum (Horse-tails), severa 
 
 
 
 
 graceful species 
 
 
 
 
 Erinus alpinus . 
 
 X 
 
 Rosy purple 
 
 April 
 
 Euphorbia cyparissus 
 
 I 
 
 Yellow 
 
 August 
 
 Funkia ovata (ccerulea) . 
 
 lA 
 
 Puce 
 
 ti 
 
 II II variegata . 
 
 II 
 
 ri 
 
 It 
 
 (There are about twenty specie 
 
 
 
 
 and varieties in cultivation, al 
 
 
 
 
 handsome foliage and flower 
 
 
 
 
 ing plants.) 
 
 1-2 
 
 White or purple 
 
 II 
 
 Geranium sanguineum . 
 
 I 
 
 Blood-coloured 
 
 „ 
 
 Gypsophila prostrata 
 
 Vz 
 
 Blush 
 
 n 
 
LIST OF HARDY PLANTS. 
 
 393 
 
 Name. 
 
 Height 
 in feet. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Time of 
 flowering. , 
 
 Helianthemum album plenum . 
 
 Ya 
 
 Yellow 
 
 >iy 
 
 11 aurantiacum 
 
 K 
 
 Orange 
 
 II 
 
 11 roseum plenum . 
 
 11 
 
 Rose 
 
 „ 
 
 Ti of sorts 
 
 
 
 
 Hemerocallis disticha fol. var. . 
 
 2 
 
 Orange 
 
 June 
 
 11 fulva 
 
 2 
 
 Copper 
 
 July 
 
 11 Kwanso . 
 
 ,1 
 
 II 
 
 M 
 
 Iris cristata 
 
 Yz 
 
 Blue 
 
 M 
 
 11 • iberica 
 
 
 Purple & yellow 
 
 n 
 
 11 pumila 
 
 X 
 
 Blue and purple 
 
 June 
 
 11 11 alba . 
 
 It 
 
 White 
 
 n 
 
 11 11 bicolor 
 
 II 
 
 Blue and white 
 
 11 
 
 ir 11 coerulea 
 
 11 
 
 Blue 
 
 II 
 
 11 11 lutea 
 
 n 
 
 Yellow 
 
 II 
 
 11 II pallida 
 
 ti 
 
 Pale blue 
 
 11 
 
 Jasione perennis . 
 
 I 
 
 Blue 
 
 August 
 
 Linariaalpina 
 
 X 
 
 Violet & yellow 
 
 n 
 
 Linum campanulatum , 
 
 X 
 
 Yellow 
 
 n 
 
 11 flavum 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 September 
 
 Lithospermum prostratum 
 
 K 
 
 Blue 
 
 July 
 
 Lobelia fulgens . 
 
 2 
 
 Scarlet 
 
 September 
 
 11 syphilitica alba . 
 
 3 
 
 White 
 
 11 
 
 Lychnis alpina . 
 
 X 
 
 Pink 
 
 June 
 
 11 Haageana 
 
 I 
 
 It 
 
 August 
 
 11 11 varieties 
 
 
 
 
 11 viscaria . 
 
 X 
 
 Red 
 
 11 
 
 ,1 11 alba plena 
 
 II 
 
 White 
 
 11 
 
 II 11 rubra u 
 
 It 
 
 Red 
 
 ,1 
 
 Lysimachia nummularia . 
 
 X 
 
 Yellow 
 
 July 
 
 1, 11 aurea (fine) 
 
 tt 
 
 II 
 
 1, 
 
 Myosotis dissitiflora (a gem) 
 
 Yz 
 
 Blue 
 
 April 
 
 11 of sorts 
 
 I 
 
 (1 
 
 „ 
 
 Nierembergia frutescens . 
 
 ^Yz 
 
 Lilac 
 
 September 
 
 11 gracilis 
 
 Y2 
 
 n 
 
 11 
 
 Onosma taurica . 
 
 I 
 
 Yellow 
 
 August 
 
 Qphiopogon Jaburan . 
 
 I 
 
 Blue 
 
 September 
 
 „ 11 aureo variegatum 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 11 Japonicum . 
 
 Yz 
 
 Yellow white 
 
 July 
 
 1. spicatum . 
 
 I 
 
 White 
 
 August 
 
 11 11 argenteo-marginata 
 
 I 
 
 
 September 
 
 Orobus vernus . 
 
 I 
 
 Purple 
 
 March 
 
 Papaver nudicaule 
 
 I 
 
 Yellow 
 
 August ■ 
 
 Pentsteraon of sorts 
 
 2 
 
 Purple and red 
 
 July 
 
394 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 
 Name. 
 
 Height 
 in feet. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Time of 
 flowering. 
 
 Phalaris elegantissima . 
 
 2 
 
 White 
 
 July 
 
 Phlox frondosa . 
 
 ■ -^ 
 
 Pink 
 
 May 
 
 ri Nelsonii . 
 
 % 
 
 White 
 
 „ 
 
 11 subulata var. amoena 
 
 ri 
 
 Dark purple 
 
 II 
 
 Poa trivialis for. var. 
 
 % 
 
 White 
 
 July 
 
 Polemonium cceruleum fol. var. 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 
 11 humile 
 
 I 
 
 Blue 
 
 August 
 
 Primula acaulis . 
 
 % 
 
 Yellow 
 
 March 
 
 n double white 
 
 11 
 
 White 
 
 IP 
 
 II II lilac 
 
 11 
 
 Lilac 
 
 IP 
 
 IP II purple . 
 
 11 
 
 Purple 
 
 II 
 
 PI II rose 
 
 II 
 
 Rose 
 
 II 
 
 (Nearly all the Primroses mai 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 be grown in pots plungec 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 in moist borders until the. 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 flower.) 
 
 
 
 
 Ranunculus aconitifolius fl. pi. 
 
 I 
 
 White 
 
 June 
 
 II chcerophyllus (fine) 
 
 I 
 
 Yellow 
 
 11 
 
 II gramineus (good) 
 
 
 II , 
 
 IP 
 
 11 , speciosus . 
 
 "% 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 Saxifraga, many kinds— see List c 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 Succulents 
 
 
 
 
 SciUa, in variety 
 
 
 
 
 Sempervivum — see Succulents 
 
 
 
 
 Sibthorpea europea 
 
 X 
 
 Purple 
 
 August 
 
 Sisyrinchium grandiflorum 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 .March 
 
 II odoratissimum 
 
 1 
 
 Striped 
 
 July 
 
 Smilacina bifolia 
 
 Vz 
 
 White 
 
 May 
 
 Spir^a Japonica . 
 
 2 
 
 .1 
 
 July 
 
 IP 11 aurea var. 
 
 11 
 
 ,1 
 
 II 
 
 Thalictrum minus 
 
 I 
 
 , Yellow 
 
 II 
 
 Veronica gentianoides . 
 
 ^Yz 
 
 Violet 
 
 June 
 
 IP II • fol. var. 
 
 
 M 
 
 It 
 
 11 IP elegantissima 
 
 ■ It 
 
 n 
 
 II 
 
 IP prostrata 
 
 . II 
 
 . Blue. 
 
 „ 
 
 M spicata 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 August. 
 
 (1 II alba . 
 
 n 
 
 White 
 
 ti 
 
 11 11 fol. var. 
 
 It 
 
 . Blue 
 
 I, 
 
 Vinca major of sprts 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 April 
 
 ■1 minor n 
 
 Yz 
 
 Blue & white 
 
 II 
 
 Viola of sorts 
 
 
 
 
 .(The varieties, of the commor 
 
 
 
 
 \ Violet, .Pansies, Viola cor 
 
 
 
 
HARDINESS OF PLANTS. 
 
 395 
 
 Name. 
 
 nuta, and its white var., and 
 many others, are well suited 
 for window-boxes, balconies, 
 or pots outside. ) 
 
 Height 
 in feet. 
 
 U 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Purple. Yellow 
 
 Time of 
 flowering. 
 
 April 
 
 HARDINESS OF PLANTS. 
 
 Persons interested in trying what plants will sur- 
 vive the winter in the milder parts of Britain, will 
 probably find an aid in the following list of plants 
 which, in the winter of 1870-71, withstood without 
 injury 15° Fahr. of frost in the open air in the Botanic 
 Garden at Brest : — 
 
 Bambusa 
 
 nigra 
 
 viridi- 
 glaucescens 
 
 aurea 
 
 violascens 
 
 gracilis 
 Arundinaria 
 
 falcata 
 Gymnothrix 
 
 latifolia 
 Pennisetum 
 
 longistylum 
 Cyperus 
 
 asperifolius 
 
 vegetus 
 Commelina 
 
 tuberosa 
 Acorus 
 
 gramineus 
 Sauromatum 
 
 guttatura 
 Arum 
 
 pictum 
 Chamserops 
 
 excelsa 
 
 Candida 
 
 Tritonia 
 
 humilis 
 
 rosea 
 
 aurea 
 
 Tricyrtis 
 
 Hypoxis 
 
 Sagittaria 
 
 hirta 
 
 villosa 
 
 chinensis 
 
 Xerotes 
 
 Sisyrinchium 
 
 lancifolia 
 
 longifolia 
 
 laxum 
 
 Aponogeton 
 
 Smilax 
 
 convolutum 
 
 distachyon 
 
 horrida 
 
 Morjea 
 
 Chamsepeuce 
 
 Dracaena 
 
 iridioides 
 
 diaca,ntha 
 
 congesta 
 
 Agave 
 
 Helichrysum 
 
 Dianella 
 
 americana 
 
 orientale 
 
 cserulea 
 
 Iris 
 
 Pyrethrum 
 
 Ruscus 
 
 fimbriata 
 
 cinerarisefolium 
 
 androgynus . 
 
 Babiana 
 
 Eupatorium 
 
 Aspidistra 
 
 plicata 
 
 micranthum 
 
 lurida 
 
 Gladiolus 
 
 Aster 
 
 Rhodea 
 
 cardinalis 
 
 carolinianus 
 
 japonica 
 
 Antholyza 
 
 Viburnum 
 
 Tritoma 
 
 ringens 
 
 odoratissimum 
 
 uvaria 
 
 Meriana 
 
 grandiflorum 
 
 media 
 
 Watsonia 
 
 Rhynchosper- 
 
 Burchelli 
 
 rosea 
 
 mum 
 
 Phormium 
 
 All the Sparaxis, 
 
 jasminoides 
 
 tenax 
 
 Ixias, and Tri- 
 
 Convolvulus 
 
 Zephyranthes 
 
 chonemas 
 
 Cneorum 
 
396 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE. 
 
 
 mauritanicus 
 
 ledifolia 
 
 papyrifera 
 
 Medicago 
 
 Myosotis •.» 
 
 Olea 
 
 Sieboldii 
 
 arborea 
 
 azoricus 
 
 europsea 
 
 trifoliata 
 
 Erythrina 
 
 Lycium 
 
 ilicifolia 
 
 Garrya 
 
 laurifoliaj 
 
 afrum 
 
 Ilex 
 
 elliptica 
 
 Cassia 
 
 Solanum 
 
 Dahoon 
 
 macrophylla 
 
 falcata 
 
 jasminoides 
 
 Thea 
 
 Aristolochia 
 
 Quercus 
 
 Phygelius 
 
 sinensis 
 
 altissima 
 
 glabra 
 
 capensis 
 
 Oxalis 
 
 Fuchsias, many 
 
 Cupressus 
 
 Pentstemon 
 
 Deppei 
 
 kinds 
 
 lusitanica 
 
 gentianoides 
 
 fabaefolia 
 
 Lagerstrsemia 
 
 funebris 
 
 Diplacus 
 
 versicolor 
 
 indica 
 
 Thujopsis 
 
 ^lutinosus 
 
 Melianthus 
 
 Lythrum 
 
 dolabrata 
 
 Veronica 
 
 major 
 
 alatum 
 
 Libocedrus 
 
 Lindleyana 
 
 Rhus 
 
 Eucalyptus 
 
 cliilensis 
 
 salicifolia 
 
 semi-alata 
 
 resinifera 
 
 Juniperus 
 
 decussata 
 
 Cissus 
 
 viminalis 
 
 bermudiana 
 
 Teucrium 
 
 orientalis 
 
 Leptospermum 
 
 Acanthus 
 
 regium 
 
 Iberis 
 
 lanigerum 
 
 lusitanicus 
 
 Salvia 
 
 semperflorens 
 
 Myrtus 
 
 Eucomis 
 
 Grahami 
 
 Akebia 
 
 communis 
 
 punctata 
 
 cacaliffifolia 
 
 quinata 
 
 Eugenia 
 
 Richardia 
 
 Rhododendron 
 
 Urtica 
 
 apiculata 
 
 sethiopica 
 
 arboreum 
 
 nivea 
 
 Eriobotrya 
 
 Rubus 
 
 argenteum 
 
 Boehmeria 
 
 japonica 
 
 australis 
 
 Azalea 
 
 cylindrica 
 
 Cissus 
 
 Begonia 
 
 indica 
 
 Aralia 
 
 tomentosus 
 
 discolor 
 
 These plants had no covering, nor any protection 
 whatever from walls, houses, &c., but were fully ex- 
 posed in the open ground to all the rigours of the 
 winter. 
 
 PRINTED BV WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SO«S, EDINBURGH.