U37 JItliaia, Neu fork BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF HENRY W. SAGE 1891 Cornell University Library E340.W37 PI 4 Daniel Webster in England; olin 3 1924 032 758 389 The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924032758389 DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND /r<. HARRIETTB STORY PAIGE From a portrait by Savinien-Edme Dubourjal, 1844 DAIirilSIi 1^EBST£]K HIT JOURNAIi OF HABBISTTS STORY PAIGE 1839 Edited by Edward Oray With Portraits BOSTON AND NEW TOBK HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 1917 ^ ;^, ,4 -^/-A^^.^0.' COPYRIGHT, I9I7, BY EDWARD GRAY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Published December IQI^ Qf ■%, CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. London : May 18 - July 14 3 n. Oxford and Windsor : July 15-20 118 III. London Aga^ : July 21- August 5 144 IV. Journey through Engiand and Wales : Au- gust 6-23 181 V. Journey through Scotland : August 24- September 7 237 VI. Journey back to London : September 8-20 295 Index 353 IliLUSTBATIOKS. PAGE Harriette Story Paige Frontispiece From a portrait by SaviuieQ-Edme Dubourjal, 1844, in tlie posses- sion of Mrs. Reginald Foster, of Boston. Daniel Webstek 18 From a portrait by Chester Harding, in the possession of John Law- rence, Esq., of Qroton. Caroline Le Kot Webster (Mrs. Daniel Webster) 28 From B portrait by Dubourjal, 1845. Daniel Webster at the Tomb of Shakespeare . . . 186 From an engraving designed by Schuessele for Oodey^t Magazine, A Page of the Journal (facsimile) 290 INTRODUCTION HAEEiETTE Story (White) Paige was born at Salem, Massachusetts, November 29, 1809, and died at Boston, November 25, 1863. Her father, Stephen White, was a merchant of Salem, and her mother, Harriet Story, ■was the daughter of Dr. Elisha Story, of Boston, and Marblehead, and a sis- ter of Joseph Story, Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States. Inl831,Harriette Story White married James William Paige (1792-1868), a mer- chant of Boston, and half-brother of Grace Fletcher (1781-1828), the first wife of Daniel Webster, and mother of his children ; their mother, Rebecca Chamberlin, having married, first, the Reverend Elijah Fletcher, and, secondly, the Reverend Chris- topher Paige. The James William Paiges and the Websters were on very intimate terms, and Mrs. Paige accom- panied Mr. and Mrs. Webster, and Jidia on their trip to Europe in 1839. This journey was not made in any official capacity, and Mr. Webster's recep- [ i^ ] INTRODUCTION tion in England was due solely to his reputation and personality. In the Life of Benjamin Disraeli, Earl of BeOr consfield, by William FlaveUe Monypenny (vol. II, p. 64), there is the following description of Mr. Webster by Disraeli, written in 1839: " Lyndhurst was also capital. I dined with him yesterday to meet Webster, who is, I beheve, considered a very refined and spiritual Yankee, but seemed to me a complete Brother Jonathan — a remarkable twang, as ' tyran- nical ' and all that ; he also goes to the levee. A fine brow, lofty, broad, and beetled, deep-set eyes, and swarthy complexion. He is said when warmed to be their greatest orator." In the Life of Daniel Webster, by George Ticknor Curtis (vol. ii), will be found impressions of Mr. Webster by Thomas Carlyle, by John Kenyon, who also speaks of " Web- ster's agreeable family party — his wife and daugh- ter and relative, Mrs. Paige," and also by Henry HaUam. Mrs. Paige kept a journal of this visit to Eng- land, as she writes, "for the benefit of friends at home," and her impressions of what she saw, and of some of the people she met, are recorded in it. This journal is here given in full; there are a few foot- [ ^ ] INTRODUCTION notes added by Mrs. Paige, in pencil, which are marked H. S. P. to distinguiah them from those of the editor. In the editor's footnotes, the family name is^ put after the daughter's Christian name, and omitted after the father's Christian name. E. G. Milton, Massaobuseiis, 1917. DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND JOURNAL. OF HABRIETTB STORY PAIOB 1839 DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND JOURNAIi OF HARRIETTE STORY PAIGE Eontion UNDER a clear sky May 18, 1839, embarked at New York for Liverpool, Steamer Liver- pool, Captain Fayrer Commander, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Webster,! and their Daughter Julia Webster.* The wharves and vessels lying near were crowded with a multitude of persons, who amid the still louder peals of the cannon, gave us many part- ing cheers. At 3 o'clock, P.M., we left the harbour of New York, and at 5 discharged our Pilot off Sandy Hook. The distance between this and Liverpool, is 3300 1 Daniel Webster's second wife, Caroline, daughter of Jacob Le Eoy, of New York ; married, 1829. ' Julia Webster, 1818-48, daughter of Daniel and Grace (Fletcher) ; married, 1839, Samuel Appleton Appleton. [ 3 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND miles, which the Captain prophecies, we shall ac- complish in fourteen and a haK days, or at the rate of about 228 miles per day. Our steamer is 210 feet long, by 33 wide, with engines equal to 468 horse power, and is provided with 675 tons of coal. The number of passengers is 86 ; there are several Englishmen, and also Scotch, Irish, Spanish, German, French, and Italians on board, those from America making the smallest number. The ship's crew includes 62 persons. On Thursday, May 23, we saw for the first time, (the sea being calm), the " Portuguese man-of-war," or nautilus, and also many porpoises. The former are very curious ; they spread their tiny sails, and glide by so gracefully, that I felt a desire to examine them more minutely. I am told they are smaller on inspection, and are apt to irritate the fingers when handled. On Saturday, June 1, we experienced the channel weather, fog, and haze; land in sight, but Cape Clear on the Irish Coast, not visible. One of the officers remarked to me, that he has passed this cape seven times, and has seen it but once. On Sunday, June 2, the Pilot came on board, 40 miles from Liverpool, at 14 minutes after 5 A.M., [ 4 ] THE VOYAGE being 14 days and 7 hours from the moment of discharging the Pilot off Sandy Hook. I have suffered in a degree from seasickness, but the motion of the ship, during the whole voyage, was never sufficient to disturb our comfort at table, or a single article upon it. Thus we have proceeded under the powers of steam, seeing little of the terrors of the ocean, or the romance, and sentiment, so gen- erally associated with it. At eleven o'clock of the same day, we arrived at Liverpool, and took lodg- ings at the Adelphi Hotel. June 3, Liverpool. This city is celebrated for its shipping, and its docks. They are very extensive, admirably constructed, and of great solidity and strength. They are built of a brown, reddish sand- stone, at enormous expense, and capable of holding afloat the largest vessels. They extend along the river Mersey, for three and a half miles, and are well worth a close examination. We have also seen with great pleasure the Cemetery, formerly a quarry in the centre of a little hill, from which was taken the stone for the formation of these docks ; this quarry is upon the highest point of land in the city, and is a long serpentine excavation, and by a most happy conception, it has been turned into a ceme- [ 6 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND tery. A way down to the bottom of it, has been cut in, and partly under, the solid original rock ; down this gentle slope, one can descend to the bottom, which has been artificially levelled, and made even. Here, along winding paths, and in the midst of shrub- bery, and flowers, are the graves, and tombs. Other sepulchres are cut in the rocks, on the sides, giving quite an oriental appearance to the whole. Ivy and flowers, creep up the slopes, and along the margin, at the top, is a row of large trees. The whole is tasteful, and beautiful. A grave with the initials of the occupant, in pepper-grass, just peeping above the ground, struck me as a pretty idea, as it must be renewed too, every Spring. Near the centre of the grounds, stands a small temple, containing a statue of the lamented Huskisson,i erected to his memory. We dine with Mr. and Mrs. Humfrey, at 6 o'clock to-day, American friends, established here. June 4. We have driven to Knowsley Park to- day, about seven miles from Liverpool, the seat of the Earl of Derby,^ whose eldest son, and heir. Lord Stanley, 5 was well known to Mr. Webster in ' William Huskisson, 1770-1830; statesman. 2 Edward Smith Stanley, 13th Earl of Derhy, 1775-1851. ^ Edward Georgpe GeofBrey Smith Stanley, 14th Earl of Derby, 1799-1869; statesman. [ 6 ] LIVERPOOIi America, some years since. We were most hospi- tably received, although the Earl was too iU to see Mr. Webster, and his son was in London. We were invited to luncheon, and shown the Aviary and Me- nagerie, both of which are very extensive and inter- esting, and also went over the grounds. I saw, for the first time, the gold and silver pheasants, from China, and many Kangaroos, hopping about in the enclosures surrounded by small iron fences, painted black.* On our return, we visited, in company with two of our fellow passengers (Mr. Gibson a Scotch gentleman, and William Anthony Barclay f of New York), the "Mayor's HaU," which is spacious and beautiful, also the " Tunnel" which commences here. We also saw the " Custom House " and the " Ex- change," where the Merchants meet, as with us, daily, from two to three o'clock, to discuss their busi- ness matters. June 5. Left Liverpool to-day, by way of the Birkenhead ferry, across the river Mersey, and pro- ceeded to Chester, a fine old town, fuU of interest from its very antiquity; there we saw the old Abbey of St. Werburgh, part of which was built in the « Called "invisible fences." (H. S. P.) t Now H.B.M. Consul at N. York. (H. S. P.) [ 7 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND early reign of Ethelred. Seven miles from Chester is " Eaton Hall," the seat of the Marquis of West- minster/ one of the richest noblemen in England. This castle is very extensive, and a very beautiful specimen of the florid Gothic architecture. The " coup d'ceil " on entering the hall, is very imposing, adorned with figures in armour, and old pictures. The interior apartments are very magnificent, the furniture of brocade and gold, and the walls fluted in velvet with gold fringes, and rich cornices, far sur- passing in splendor anything we have yet, ever seen, but we are told, we shall yet see many things beyond this. The view of the grounds, through the win- dows, down the terrace is beautiful beyond descrip- tion ; every spot in the highest cultivation, presenting to us altogether, a scene, realising only, that of the poet, or the painter. We were amply repaid for our exertions, in driving" to this place through the heat of the mid-day sun, and can talk of nothing, but this splendid specimen, of the "Stately homes of England." The following day, Thursday, June 6, we drove as far as Hartford, and there joining the Liverpool 1 Robert QrosTenor, 2d Earl Grosyenor and Ist Marquis of West- minster, 1767-1845 ; great picture-oolleotor and horse-racer. C 8 ] ABBIVAIj in LONDON railway, found ourselves at 8 o'clock, at the Euston station, and soon after, at the hospitable mansion of Mr. Jaudon i in Park Crescent, in the far-famed city of London. Our lodgings in Hanover Square at the Brunswick Hotel, had been secured, but will not be at our service, until Saturday morning; we are therefore the guests of our kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, until then. Friday, June 7. We dined to-day at 6 o'clock with Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Wiggin, who have just established themselves, in a new, and richly fur- nished house in Park Crescent ; there we met several American friends including, Mr. ^ and Mrs. Bates,' Mr. and Mrs. Cryder, Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Wig- gin,^ and their son, Mr. Holme Wiggin, Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, and some others unknown to me. A very splendid and agreeable dinner. We have also visited the Coliseum, to see the Panorama of London there exhibiting, and had our first actual view of 1 Samuel Jaudon ; Banker in London, formerly cashier of the Bank of the United States. ' Joshua Bates, 1788-1864 ; financier. Born at Weymouth, Massa- ohnsetts. Member of Baring Brothers. He contributed $100,000 to the Public Library in Boston. ^ Lucretia Angusta Sturgis, daughter of William ; married Joshua Bates, died 1863. « Timothy Wiggin, 1773-1856 ; banker. [ 9 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND London from the top of this building. Through an atmosphere of smoke, and clouds, I stUl recognised the London of my imagination, and of my dreams. I know not how this can be, but had my eyes been suddenly opened upon this glorious prospect at any time, or any where, I should have pronounced it, what it is, glorious, interminable, wonderful London ! The following day we took possession of our lodg- ings at the Brunswick Hotel ; they have quite an air of comfort, are well furnished, and our Landlord, Mr. John Watson, well disposed and intelligent. June 10. Mr. Kenyon,i a poet, and man of letters, a friend of Mr. Ticknor's,^ came to see Mr. Webster yesterday, and asked us all to meet some literary friends at breakfast to-day. Conceive our delight, and gratification, when (contrary to the English cus- tom, and in compliment to our being strangers), the following distinguished persons were named : Words- worth, s Rogers, 4 Hartley Coleridge, ^ a son of the Poet, and himself one, Mr. Richard Monckton 1 John Kenyon, 1784-1856 ; poet and philanthropist. =■ George Ticknor, 1791-1871 ; scholar and historian. « William Wordsworth, 1770-1850 ; poet. * Samuel Rog-ers, 1763-1855 ; poet. ' Hartley Coleridge, 1796-1849; author. [ 10 ] A LITERARY BREAKFAST-PARTY Milnes,! author of the "Poems of many Years" and member of Parliament, Mr. Wordsworth, son of the Poet, and Mr. Babbage,^ well known among men of science. In addition to these, we had Miss Sarah Kogers, sister of the above-named, and the only lady except those of our own party. Wordsworth and his son, are to leave to-morrow for Cumberland. This celebrated " lake Poet " reminds me strongly of Mr. Henry Sargent,' the amateur artist of Boston, and although he looks older than Mr. Sargent, he might at a distance be taken for him. Rogers, must be nearly seventy years or more, with a pale face, great simplicity, and warmth of manner, and full of wit, and humour. He has the reputation of being cynical, but there was no evidence of such to-day. Coleridge, a much younger man, sat on his right, he is attrac- tive in personal appearance, gentlemanlike and culti- vated, I liked him much; of Mr. Milnes I saw but little, except that he was called upon, to pay the usual penalty for literary distinction, and at Miss Rogers' request, after breakfast, he went to a table, ' Kichard Monckton Milnes, Ist Baron Houghton, 1809-85 ; Member of Parliament for Pontefract, 1837. ' Charles Babbage, 1792-1871 ; mathematician and Bcientifio mechanician. 8 Henry Sargent, 1770-1845 ; artist. [ 11 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND and wrote her an autograph. Mr. Babbage, whose eye is penetrating, and whole expression energetic, invited us after breakfast, at 12 o'clock, to visit his " self calculating machine," and to his house we pro- ceeded from Mr. Kenyon's. This piece of machinery I cannot attempt to describe, although Mr. Bab- bage, who is the inventor, made it quite plain to Mr. Webster's more scientific capacity. It was however, even to me, very curious, and wonderful, and the machine itself, seemed to possess aU but, the power of speaking. With Mr. Babbage we lunched, and saw afterward an automaton lady, also of his own manufacture, or invention, which moved, its arms, and head, and eyes, like other automata. At 7 o'clock we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Jaudon, and afterwards went to a Soiree at Miss Rogers', where we had the good fortune of meeting Tom Moore, 1 Lockhart,^ son-in-law of Scott, Hallam,^ au- thor of "Middle Ages," Lady Davy,^ widow of the celebrated Sir Humphry Davy,^ and Lady Chantrey, 1 Thomas Moore, 1779-1852 ; poet. " John Gibson Lockhait, 1794-1854; biographer of Scott. 8 Henry Hallam, 1777-1859 ; historian. * Lady Jane Davy, 1780-1855, n& Kerr; a prominent figure in the society of both Rome and London. 5 Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829 ; natural philosopher. [ 12 ] MEETING DICKENS wife of Sir Francis Chantrey,! the sculptor. Like- wise, we were introduced to Miss Coutts,^ daughter of Sir Francis Burdett,' and heiress of the immense wealth of her Aunt, the late Duchess of St. Albans.* June 10.6 Mr. Webster has been to the houses of Parliament to-day, with Mr. Stevenson, ^ although he made a previous visit, incognito, three days ago. Mrs. Webster and Julia have been driving in Hyde Park with Miss Sarah Wallace, and her lap-dog. This lady is a relative of the Ogden family, in New York, and is unmarried, and has purchased a life annuity, upon which she lives in London, in good style, with a handsome income. June 11. Mr. Webster dined to-day, with Mr. Kenyon to meet " Boz," ' the author of the " Pick- wick Papers." Having expressed to Kenyon, a desire ^ Sir Francis Legatt Chantrey, 1781-1842 ; sculptor. 2 Angela Georgina Burdett-Coutts, 1814-1906, daughter of Sir Fraucis Burdett. 3 Sir Francis Burdett, 1770-1844 j politician ; married Sophia Coutts. * Harriet Mellon, 1777-1837 ; aotress ; daughter of Matthew, and relict of Thomas Coutts, of London, banker ; married, 1827, William Aubrey de Vere Beauclerk, 9th Duke of St. Albans. ' The date is repeated. ° Andrew Steyenson, 1784-1857; statesman; American Minister to England, 1836-41. ' Charles Dickens, 1812-70 ; noyelist. [ 13 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND to see this author whose books had given us so much pleasure, he expressly asked him to dinner, as Mrs. Webster, Julia and myself were to follow in the evening. "Boz" greatly resembles the prints of him seen in America. He wears an abundance of hair, and appeared to be a very silent personage, keeping in a corner, and shunning observation, but withal, I fancy he is a great observer. I looked at him with interest and compassion, having given full credence to the pathetic tale of his sorrows, at the loss of his wife and children. As a relief from these bereave- ments, I have been told, he had turned to author- ship; Kenyon laughed most heartily at our wasted sympathy, assuring us, that Dickens was yet a Hus- band and a Father, and that the story industriously circulated, had no origin in truth. Wednesday, June 12. This day was appointed for visiting the " Tower," which from historical associa- tion, and reminiscences of childhood, had for me a peculiar interest. This ancient fortress is on the North bank of the Thames, at the S. E. extremity of the city. It is said to have been built by William the Conqueror in the year 1078. The "Horse Ar- moury" first attracted our attention; an apartment 150 feet in length, 33 in width, and containing 22 [ 14 ] THE TOWER OF LONDON Equestrian figures, many of them the former Kings of England, from Edward 1, 1272, to James II, 1685 ; these were in suits of armour as worn when alive, and were a most interesting and imposing relic of the olden time. Here before us, was Henry VIII, Dudley, Earl of Leicester, Devereux, Earl of Essex, and Henry, Prince of Wales. What a crowd of as- sociations it brought to the mind ! Behind the horse- men, were curious arms of various kinds, bearing different dates, and specimens of Ordnance up to the time of Henry VI. We saw with interest a low room, or vault, in the " White Tower," where Sir Walter Raleigh is said to have written his " History of the World," during his imprisonment. Several inscrip- tions are still visible on the walls, and some are at- tributed to him. In the "Sea Armoury" were mus- kets for sea service, warhke trophies, and ancient implements of every description. In the upper storey of the " Grand Storehouse," which is a striking edi- fice north of the " White Tower," 345 feet long and 60 in breadth, is the " Small Armoury " containing arms for about 200,000 men, kept clean and bright, and arranged in various tasteful, and fanciful forms. Through a " douceur " to the Warder, whose theat- rical costume, (such as we have seen only on the [ 15 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND stage, as belonging to the time of Henry VII), we were admitted to the " Beauchamp Tower," now used as a barrack room; here was imprisoned the good, but unfortunate Lady Jane Grey and the ill-fated Anne Boleyn. An inscription on the wall, near the window, gives the number of weeks, hours, and days, of this last named Queen's imprisonment, and is supposed to have been thus scraped with a nail, or pair of scissors, the morning of her execution. The spot where this occurred in the court yard below, was pointed out, it being distinguished from the others, by stones, of another colour. Of course, we visited the "Jewel Office," a dark, gloomy apartment, in another building, and heard a list of its precious contents enumerated by a woman, grown so old in this service, that her tones were nearly unintelligible. Here are kept the " Regalia, or Crown jewels," the " golden sceptre," and " state salt-cellar," and the " golden spoon," and other emblems of royalty, used at the Coronations. Mrs. Gray's ridiculous account of this same old woman, was brought to my mind, and I can bear witness, that her amusing description, was no exaggeration. We dined afterwards with a large party at Mrs. Jaudon's, and there met Mr. and Mrs. Cowell, who [ 16 ] A DISAGREEABLE SCOTCHMAN have recently returned from America. Mr. and Mrs. Hanky, M.P., Mr. and Mrs. Guthrie, he also, a M.P. but an ignorant, and disagreeable Scotchman, who shewed his bad taste by depreciating everything American, even to our natural scenery. At last, pro- voked at this ungentle treatment, and contrary to the restrictions, I have imposed on myself, to avoid all comparisons, I told him in reply to his question, about the relative beauty of the oak trees of England and America, that we could show more varieties of the oak alone, than his country contained among all her forest trees. This fact he seemed to doubt, but an appeal on my part to Mrs. Cowell, convinced, and sul^rised my antagonist, and he afterward remained silent on the subject. Christopher Hughes,i Esquire, our charge to Sweden, was one of the guests, and Mr. and Mrs. Bates met us in the drawing-room above, at coffee. The dinner was altogether agreeable, not- withstanding my own propinquity to the honorable Mr. Guthrie, M.P. . June 13. We went to-day, in company with Mr. Kenyon, (who is devoted in his kind attentions), to the justly celebrated " British Museum," in Great Russell Street, Bloom sbury. Mr. Webster did not 1 Christopher Hughes, 1786-1849; diplomat. [ 17 ] THE BRITISH MUSEUM should like to paint that head ! " This was accom- panied with so much enthusiasm of manner, the clasping of hands, and rolling of the eyes, that I was reminded of somewhat similar scenes, in our own dear land. Books of great rarity, and value were shown ; the first Bible ever printed ; the only sig- nature extant of Shakspeare's handwriting, without the letter e in the first syllable as I have here spelt it. Illuminated manuscripts of the greatest beauty and antiquity ; in short, it is quite impossible to de- scribe all the literary wonders so obligingly produced on all sides, for our gratification. The library pre- sented by George IV, collected by George III at Buckingham Palace, is contained in a very spacious, and splendid apartment, and the books themselves are almost invaluable. Doctor Burney'si library is also here, purchased by the Government for £13,- 500 ; it contains nearly 14,000 volumes, and the collection of Greek authors is said to be very valu- able. There is also a rare series of newspapers from 1603 to the present time amounting to 7000 vol- umes. The famous " Elgin marbles " are here, they are interesting specimens of ancient art, and are highly prized as models. The "Portland" or "Bar- 1 Charles Burney, D.D., 1757-1817 ; classical scholar. C 19 ] DANIEL WEBSTKR IN ENGIiAND berini Vase," we ascended a long and high staircase to see, and it entirely rewarded our efforts ; it is very beautiful, but smaller than I had imagined; the material is of the deepest sapphire glass, on which are executed in relief, like a cameo, graceful opaque white figures. The exact explanation of these figures has never, I believe, been satisfactorily ex- plained, although there have been many attempts. Mr. Kenyon at his own house in Harley Place, pos- sesses a fine imitation in Wedgewood, the dying be- quest of a friend. The body of his vase wants the transparency of the beautiful original. This vase, (they give it the French pronunciation here), for more than two centuries adorned the Barberini Pal- ace in Rome, and was purchased by the Duchess of Portland of Sir WiUiam Hamilton, i It is said, that the Duchess, for a long time, concealed the purchase, fearing the ridicule, and censure of her friends, at the enormous price paid for this precious relic. It was found about the middle of the 16th century, a few miles from Rome, enclosed in a marble sarcoph- agus, within a sepulchral chamber, and was probar bly a cinerary urn, belonging to the sepulchre. * Sir William Hamilton, 1730-1803 ; diplomatist and aichaeolo- giat ; hnsband of Emma Hamilton. [ 20 ] THE ITALIAN OPERA In other apartments, we saw mummies, in all their different stages, and numerous interesting articles from Herculaneum, and Pompeii. An enormous wig, of coarse, curly hair, corresponding precisely to the drawings of the females, on the vases. In short, there was an endless variety of curiosities, in stuffed ani- mals, of the vegetable world, and of fossils, medals, minerals, sculpture and statuary, sufficient to occupy whole months in their examination. Dined afterward with Mr. and Mrs. Bates in Port- man Square, with no other company but their Daugh- ter Madame Van de Weyer,i and her Husband, ^ the Belgian Minister, whom she has recently married. After dinner we went for the first time to the Italian Opera, two boxes having been made into one, for the ac- commodation of our party of eight. It was Persiani's benefit, and a crowded house and the music ! I can- not describe its magical effect upon me. Beside Persi- an!' here was Grisi,^ Tamburini,^ Garcia,^ and Mario.' 1 Elizabeth Bates, daughter of Joshua. ^ Sylvain Van de Weyer, Belgian Minister in London. 8 Mme. Fanni Persiani, 1812-67; Italian singer. * Giulia Grisi, 1812-69 ; Italian opera singer. 6 Antonio Tamburini, 1800-76 ; Italian singer. 8 Michelle Ferdinande Pauline Garcia, 1821-1910 ; Spanish singer ; married, 1840, M. Viardot. ' Giuseppe Mario, Marquis di Candia, 1810-83 ; Italian singer. [ 21 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Eubinii was ill, and Lablache^ the great basso, did not perform. Mario is the son of the Governor of Nice, but has left his home in displeasure, and assumes the " nom de guerre " of Mario ; he is rather attractive in personal appearance, and has a delightful voice, but the critics say, it still re- quires practice and cultivation. After the Opera, we had the ballet of " La Gitana," and I saw for the first time the celebrated Taglioni.' This danseuse seems to merit all the extraordinary praise that has been bestowed on her, no praise of her grace, can be exaggeration. It was indeed " the very poetry of motion. " She is not handsome, yet far from appearing otherwise, and is slightly enclined to " en bon point." June 14. The anniversary of my wedding day, eight years ago. Breakfasted with an agreeable party at Mr. and Mrs. Senior's,^ Hyde Park Gate. He is a scholar, and lawyer of eminence, and she is a "West Indian. I sat, at table, between Mr. Bingham Bariug,5 a charming person, son of Lord Ashbur- ' Giovanni Battista Rutini, 1795-1854 ; Italian sing-er. 2 Luig-i Lablache, 1794-1858 ; Italian actor and singer. ' Marie Sophie Taglioni, 1804-84 ; Swedish danseuse. * Nassau William Senior, 1790-1864 ; economist ; Master in Chan- cery, 1836-55. 6 WUliam Bingham Baring, 2d Baron Ashburton, 1799-1864; [ 22 ] ANOTHER BREAKFAST-PARTY ton,i and Mr. William Clay.* 2 The former a con- servative, and the latter a thorough radical, and I was much amused by the good natured quarrelling of these two neighbours, on the subject of local politics. Mr. Baring kindly expressed great regret, that " there was nobody in London ; Devonshire House closed, the Duke abroad, the Duchess of Sutherland also absent, Lady Jersey, and some others, out of town, and he feared we should lose all opportunity, of seeing any- thing of London Society." The Earl of Shelburne,' son of the Marquis of Lansdowne, and Lord Lovelace,'' who married Ada Byron, ^ were among the guests. At dinner at home, Mr. and Mrs. Webster kindly drank my Husband's ^ health, in a bottle of cham- pagne, more precious here, than in America. « Now Sir WUliam Clay. (H. S. P.) statesman ; Member of Parliament, 1826-48. His mother was Anne Louisa Bingham, of Philadelphia. 1 Alexander Baring, 1st Baron Ashburton, 1774-1S48 ; financier and statesman. 2 Sir William Clay, 1791-1869 ; politician ; merch.ant in London ; Member of Parliament for Tower Hamlets, 1832-57. * Henry Petty-Fitzmanrice, Earl of Shelburne, later 4th Marquis of Lansdowne, 1816-66 ; Member of Parliament for Calne, 1837-56. 4 William King-Noel, 1st Earl of Lovelace, 1805-93. ^ The Honorable Augusta Ada Byron, daughter of George Gor- don, 6th Baron Byron, the poet ; married, 1835, William King- Noel, 1st Earl Lovelace. » Jamea WUliam Paige, 1792-1868 ; merchant. [ 23 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Saturday, June 15. By previous invitation, and arrangement, we drove to Chiswiek, to visit the Horticultural exhibition, in company with, Mr. and Mrs. Bates, Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, and Mr. and Mrs. George Archibald. The sea of equipages out- side the grounds, was astounding to my unpractised eye, and within, were vast numbers of gaily dressed people, (many ladies wearing embroidered muslins over a coloured sUk), making an attractive scene to a novice, like myself. The exhibition of flowers, was very beautiful, particularly the heaths ; they were of uncommon size and beauty. Tihe flavor of the pine- apples growing within, was very powerful, and agree- able, but an approach to the tables, for seeing the pines, we found, in consequence of the crowd, en- tirely impracticable. There we accidentally met Mrs. Derby, who left America before ourselves, in a Packet Ship, and had with her husband, but recently arrived in London. On leaving Chiswiek, the crowd of car- riages extended as far as the eye covdd reach, await- ing their fair occupants, and yet on reaching " Hyde Park," and there driving for an hour, the crowd of equipages, seemed in no way diminished, and the whole world of fashion seemed congregated there. This may afford a slight illustration of the vast pop- [ 24 ] THE QUEEN'S INVITATION ulation, of this "vaster" city, which fills me, the longer I remain, with bewildered astonishment, and admiration. We had engaged ourselves this evening, to a party at Mr. Babbage's, where we were told we should meet " some of the cleverest people in Eng- land " ; but we have just received through the Lord Chamberlain, an invitation, or rather a "command," to attend the Queen's "^ ball on Monday night, and we must pay a visit of consultation to our dress maker, and forego the pleasure of Mr. Babbage's Soiree. Our card of invitation is about one fourth the size of a large sheet of letter paper, and is thus expressed : The Lord Chamberlain is commanded by The Queen to invite Mrs. Paige to a Ball on Monday the 17th June at 10 o'Clock Buckingham Palace. Full Dress. Sunday morning, June 16. Through the kindness of Mr. Charles Augustus Murray,^ attached to the Queen's household, we were to have gone to the 1 Alexandrina Victoria, 1819-1901 ; daughter of Edward, Duke of Kent ; ascended the throne, 1837, as Queen Victoria. * Sir Charles Augustus Murray, 1806-95 ; diplomatist and author ; Master of the Household, 1838-^. [ 25 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Chapel royal to-day. To our great regret and disap- pointment, after the services of all the other churches had commenced, came a note from Mr. Murray to Mr. Webster, saying that " owing to the departure of her cousin Victoria, one of the Princesses of Co- burg, the Queen would not attend Chapel to-day, and presuming we would prefer to go, when the Queen was present, he had postponed sending the tickets of admission," and so we lost the opportunity of going to church at all. At two o'clock we drove to the Zoological Gardens, in company with Captain Stockton, an American friend, stopping to lunch on our way with Mr. Kenyon in Harley Place. There we found Captain Jones, a friend of Kenyon's, and Mr. Ogilvie awaiting our coming. This latter is one of the Directors of the Zoological Gardens, and " de- sired the privilege of escorting Mr. Webster's fam- ily there." These gardens are, as their name indi- cates, a menagerie of animals, and are situated in the N.E. side of Regent's Park ; they are very extensive, the grounds are very prettily laid out, and on Sun- days, the only day the " canaiUe " is excluded, form a very fashionable promenade. About 9 years ago, the animals from the Tower, were presented to this Society by King William TV ; they are kept in " pad- [ 26 ]■ THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS docks," dens, &c., suitable to their various habits, and the bears in pits, with a stout pole in the centre, on which they climb. The pits are surrounded by a high iron railing. The birds are in aviaries, and the apes and monkeys are similarly provided for. A ma- caw bit Mrs. Webster's hat, and was induced, with difficulty, to let go his hold ; he was constantly ask- ing " What 's your name " ? The most interesting animals to me, were the two Giraffes ; one of these was so much attracted by a bunch of wild cherries in my chip-hat, attempting several times to reach it with his long neck, that I could not approach, without his repeating the attempt. We have since learnt that a young Giraffe has made its appearance, and " has been heard to grunt twice since its birth." We were asked to dinner at Mr. Bates', but it being Sunday, we begged to be excused. Monday, June 17. Drove to " Storr & Morti- mer's " this morning, and have been much occupied, with arrangements, for the Court ball this evening. Mr. Webster dines with Sir William Rolfe, having declined invitations from the Marquis of Lansdowne, and two or three other persons for to-day. We are told, that it is a great privilege to go to a ball at Court, before a regular presentation, it being con- [ 27 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGIiAND trary to etiquette, and that it is a compliment to be appreciated, by Mr. Webster and his party. Tuesday, June 18. The Queen's bail last night was of course very magnificent. Mrs. Webster wore an embroidered pink silk, Julia a white tulle over satin, trimmed with pink roses, and I was dressed in a rose coloured silk with a deep flounce of thread lace, the waist trimmed with a berthe to correspond, and ornamented also with a garniture of pink and sUver flowers, and wreath also for the hair of the same. Mr. Webster wore a court dress, which was exceedingly becoming, consisting of smallclothes, white silk stockings, diamond knee and shoe buckles ; a coat of the fashion of the last century, lined with white satin, with a white satin vest, embroidered in colours, and ornamental steel buttons, of the same fashion as the coat, point-lace shirt ruffles, and lace frills over the hands. To the collar of the coat, be- hind, are attached ribbons &c., to give the appear- ance of the bag-wig of former times. This costume, or uniform, was worn by all the gentlemen present. We drove to Buckingham Palace, at 10 o'clock, the hour named, and joining the long train of carriages, with their liveried footmen, in fuU costume, soon reached the palace door, where were the "yeomen of [ 28 ] CAROLINE Lf.ROY WKBSTFR (MRS. DANIKL WEBSTKR) From a portrait by Savinit^ii-Edme Diibourjal, 1845 '.■ ' ■ iUi tf'^yj »» (:?»i;ii!«>Vt(.i, ■ ■.■ '•• • a ■.■•■H.sjrjlJE.Jc,!-' t-0 b® .■;',...,. iJ^Hl.r ;,,.;■ -<-:' 'V t) (■.i?^"! UJ! ilif' ''..'•■ '■■* Site' ... u<,tt ;■* ' ',, ■■ _. :,\ ... , >■ f',.. ,,.,,. ■ .; . . Mi ' ■ .^: ■ *:,.,;. rh?i r?^-!'"?«i^SR«^'>'^TrT^?3i5»5-':: THE QUEEN'S BALL, the Guard " in their costumes, ranged on each side, and a band of very fine music, constantly playing. We entered the spacious and magnificent Hall, and in an apartment beyond, we deposited our shawls, and received from one of the maids in attendance, a ticket, with a number, a corresponding one, being attached to our garments. Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson were awaiting us, and passing rapidly through sev- eral very splendid apartments, we found ourselves, in a flood of light, amid a crowd of richly dressed people, blazing with diamonds, and different orders, there awaiting, as I soon learned, the appearance of her Majesty. We had barely time to look around us, before the doors of the adjoining apartment, called the " North Yellow Room " were thrown open, when the Queen appeared, preceded by her Chamberlains, with long gold sticks, walking backward, facing the Queen. Her Majesty was attended by the Duke of Sussexi lier Uncle, and several other members of the royal family, their names successively whispered to us, as they passed along ; then came the ladies in waiting, maids of honor, and so on, in regular order, according to the prescribed etiquette. The Queen wore a white point lace dress, of the richest pattern, 1 Augnstus Frederick, Duke of Sussex, 1773-1843. [ 29 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND over satin, her hair simply dressed with flowers, in- termingled with diamonds, and a diamond bandeau, with the broad blue velvet belt, or order of the gar- ter, across her shoulder and chest, meeting under one arm. She passed along the line formed each side of the entrance door, bowiag graciously, and, shaking hands with many, proceeded to the throne room, and having mounted only for a few moments, this platform, or dais, which was richly adorned with crimson velvet and gold, and an awning of the same material above, she at once commenced dancing, having through her Lord Chamberlain selected her own partner. As I looked at her, I could not but confess, that had she not been distinguished by that blue order, (worn by no other female in England), she would have entirely escaped my notice, or recol- lection. Her Majesty is not pretty, is very short, inclining to " en bon point," her hair is light, and her eyes a greyish blue. Mrs. Stevenson had desired us to be near her, when the dancing was over, that she might present us aU, in due succession. Two other ladies however, followed Mrs. Webster so closely, in their eagerness to approach the throne, that Julia and myself became separated from Mrs. Webster, and found it entirely impossible, amid the [ 30 ] PRESENTED TO THE QUEEN rush, to recover ourselves (for even at court people will crowd and push), so that we had the vexation of seeing Mrs. Webster in the act of presentation, and ourselves, far behind. Every lady present is ex- pected " to do her duty " to the Queen, in this par- ticular. However, in our case, this formal, and coveted ceremony, was only postponed, and we had no great reason ultimately, to regret this delay. After another dance, on the Queen's part, she again ascended the throne, and Julia and myself, were duly presented by Mrs. Stevenson, our names distinctly pronounced in an audible voice, after Mrs. Stevenson, by the Queen herself. We then, to our great relief, hacked our way from the throne room, and were permitted to wander at pleasure through the various rooms of the palace, and indulge our curiosity and admiration. When the Queen was not dancing, she occupied a large velvet arm-chair, with the V.R. in gold letters, on the velvet wall above, anc' in the other chairs, sat the Duchess of Cambridge, i and her Daughter, the Princess Augusta,^ and other members of the Eoyal 1 Augusta Wilhelmina Louisa, daughter of the Landgraye Frede- rick of Hesse-Caasel ; married, 1818, Prince Adolphus Frederick, 1st Duke of Cambridge ; died, 1889. 2 Princess Augusta Caroline Chariotte Elizaheth Mary Sophia Louisa, daughter of the Duke of Cambridge ; born, 1822. [ 31 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND family. The Duchess of Kent,i sat on one side ; she is still a fine looking woman. Seven apartments were open, and lighted of course. The picture gallery is a very splendid room 164 feet by 28, and runs nearly the whole length of the palace. After a short time the Queen left the Throne Room, and danced in the South yellow drawing room. At one o'clock the sup- per rooms were opened, the tables covered with gold plate. The dishes were mostly French, and highly and tastefully ornamented. An abundance of fruits, such as pines, which are very delicious and grown in pineries, strawberries and cherries (fruit is more costly than with us, and frequently grown under glass), champagne, and seltzer water, which they mingle with the former, and ices of all kinds, were served all the evening previous to supper in another apartment, and I believe there was also tea, and cof- fee. The side-board was in a raised niche, covered, and hung with crimson velvet, and ornamented with massive gold candelabra, and wax candles, and was literally groaning under the weight of the very superb gold plate with which it was covered. This exhibition struck us all, as magnificent in the extreme, not only ' Victoria Maria Louisa, daughter of Francis Frederick Antony, Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Saalf eld; married, 1818, Edward, Duke of Kent. [ 32 ] A BLAZE OF JEWELRY beyond what we had ever seen, but what we had ever dreamed of. The blaze of jewelry was also astounding. The Marchioness of Londonderryi is quite celebrated for her profusion of diamonds, and on this occasion, she was literally covered ; from the large sprigs on the front-skirt of her dress, to the neck of her dress, her gloves, and around the waist, she was a glitter of diamonds, and a coronet of bril- liants around her head. The Princess Doria's^ diar monds were also very splendid, and were shown to advantage, with her black dress. Prince Esterhazy's' jewels, have always been celebrated, and on this occasion he displayed a broad band of diamonds, over his crimson velvet coat ; his sword-case was en- tirely covered with these precious gems, mingled with pearls, and so was his cartridge box. Being an Ambassador, from a foreign court, of course, his dress was that of his own country (Austria). He 1 Lady Frances Anne Emily Vane-Tempest, daughter of Sir Henry, Baronet ; married, 1819, Charles William Stewart, 3d Mar- quis of Londonderry, who, upon his marriage, took the name of Vane in lieu of that of Stewart. She died 1865. 2 Mary Alathea Beatrix Talbot, daughter of John, ]6th Earl of Shrewsbury ; married, 1839, Philip Andrew, Prince Doria Pam- philj Landi. 8 Prince Paul Antoine Esterhazy yon Galantha, 1786-1866 ; Aus- trian diplomatist ; Ambassador to England, 1839. [ 33 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND carried in his hand, his cap, the jewels upon which are of inestimable value, a handsome fortune alone, it is said. Esterhazy's wealth is unbounded. It is said of him, that on a recent visit to Holkham Hall, the Earl of Leicester,! during a walk over the grounds, called Prince Esterhazy's attention to his vast flocks of sheep, amounting to 300 in number, being greater than belong to any other estate in Great Britain. Esterhazy bestowed just praise upon this display, and then remarked that he on his estates, " had as many shepherds." And this is said to be literally true. The Duchess of Sutherland,^ although not so youth- ful as the portraits represent her, is still a superb woman. She is Mistress of the Robes to the Queen. She is called the best dressed woman in England. On this occasion, she was attired in simple mourn- ing, for the loss of a child, and had just returned from the Continent, a day or two before. She is cer- tainly a very striking and favorable specimen of " a ! Thomas William Coke, of Holkham, Ist Earl of Leicester, 1752-1842 ; agriculturist ; " Coke of Norfolk." 2 Harriet Elizabeth Georgiana Howard, daughter of George, 6th Earl of Carlisle ; married, 1823, George Granville Sutherland-Leve- Bon-Gower, 3d Duke of Sutherland ; Mistress of the Kobes, 1887- 4t; a great friend of Queen Victoria. [ 34 ] GUESTS AT THE BALL highborn English dame." Mr. Webster introduced me to Lord Melbourne, i whom 1 thought a hand- some man, with an agreeable physiognomy. I was also presented to Lord Durham, ^ the Marquis of Lansdowne,' and a variety of other distinguished personages, both male, and female. We left the dan- cing room at two o'clock, but owing to the crowd of carriages, did not reach our lodgings until three o'clock, when it was quite daylight. We were not a little amused, while waiting our turn, in the ante- room, in listening to the call of the different car- riages, the titled names of their owners, echoing from servant to servant, from hall to staircase, and from room to room. " The Marquis of Anglesey's^ carriage stops the way." The Marquis appeared, his limp- ing gait attesting his identity ; he wears a substitute for one leg, buried at Waterloo. "The Marquis of Westminster's carriage," and soon the wealthy pos- sessor of "Eaton Hall" advanced toward the en- 1 William Lamb, 2d Viscount Melbourne, 1779-1S4S ; statesman ; adviser to Queen Victoria, 1837-41. 2 John George Lambton, Ut Earl of Durham, 1792-1840 ; states- man. ' Sir Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, 3d Marquis of Lansdowne, 1780- 1863 ; statesman. * Sir Henry William Paget, Ist Marquis of Anglesey, 1768-1854 ; soldier. [ 35 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND trance, the Marchioness i on his arm ; they were fol- lowed by the " Countess of Jersey," the " Earl 2 and Countess of Normanby,"^ "Viscount Powerscourt," ^ "Lord^ and Lady Burghersh,"^ and many others, whose names now quite escape my recollection. We made the acquaintance of Lady Georgiana Fane,' daughter of the Earl of Westmoreland, of Lord « and Lady Wharncliffe,^ and their son," and daugh- 1 Eleanor Egerton, daughter of Thomas, 1st Earl of Wilton; married, 1794, Robert Grosvenor, 1st Marquis of Westminster; died, 1846, aged 76. ^ Sir Constantino Henry Phipps, 1st Marquis of Normauby, 1797- 1863 ; was 2d Earl of Mulgrave ; statesman ; Secretary for War and the Colonies, 1839, and Home Secretary, 1839—41. * The Honorable Maria Liddell, daughter of Thomas Henry, 1st Baron Eavensworth ; married, 1818, Sir Constantine Henry Phipps, Ist Marquis of Normauby. * Richard Wiugfield, 6th Viscount Powerscourt, 1815-44. ^ John Fane, Lord Eurghersh, later 11th Earl of Westmoreland, 1784r-1859 ; musical composer and author of military memoirs. ' Priscilla Anne Wellesley-Pole, daughter of the Right Honor- able William, Lord Maryborough, Earl of Mornington ; married, 1811, John Fane, Lord Burghersh. ' Cecily Jane Georgiana Fane, daughter of John, 10th Earl of Westmoreland ; died, 1874. 8 James Archibald Stuart- Wortley-Mackenzie, 1st Baron Wham- cUffe, 1776-1845 ; statesman. ' Caroline Elizabeth Mary Crighton, daughter of John, Ist Earl of Erne ; married, 1799, James Archibald Stuart-Wortley-Macken- zie, lat Baron WharncIifiPe; died, 1856, aged 78. '" John Stuart- Wortley, later Stuart-Wortley-Mackenzie, 2d Baron WhamclifEe, 1801-55 ; published pamphlets and an economic work. [ 36 ] MAKING AND RECEIVING CALLS ter; the latter is Lady Georgiana Stuart-Wortley,i daughter of the Earl of Harrowby. June 18.2 We drove in Hyde Park after a very late breakfast, and made ten visits, that is, we left our cards, and returned, to find we had received as many more. Among them are the cards of Lord' and Lady Lyndhurst,^ the Earl and Countess of Lovelace, Viscount Palmerston,^ Lord^ and Lady Denman,' Lord and Lady Burghersh, Sir Charles ' and Lady Bagot,^ Viscount Morpeth, "> &c. We have refused two or three invitations to dinner, in conse- 1 Georgiana Elizabeth Kyder, daughter of Dudley, 1st Earl of Harrowby ; married, 1825, John Stuart- Wortley, later Stuart- Wort- ley-Mackenzie, 2d Baron Whamcliffe ; died, 1884, aged 80. 2 The date is repeated. ' John Singleton Copley, Baron Lyndhurst, 1772-1863; Lord Chancellor ; son of John Singleton Copley, 1737-1815, the artist. * Georgiana Goldsmith, daughter of Lewis ; married, 1837, as his second wife, John Singleton Copley, Baron Lyndhurst. 5 Henry John Temple, 3d Viscount Palmerston, 1784-1865 ; statesman. 6 Thomas Denman, Ist Baron Denman, 1779-1854 ; Lord Chief Justice. ' Theodosia Anne Vevers, daughter of the Reverend Richard ; married, 1804, Thomas Denman, 1st Baron Denman ; died, 1852. ' Sir Charles Bagot, 1781-1843 ; Governor-General of Canada. ' Mary Charlotte Anne Wellesley-Pole, daughter of William, Lord Maryborough, Earl of Mornington ; married, 1806, Sir Charles Bagot; died, 1S45. 1° George William Frederick Howard, Viscount Morpeth, later 7th Earl of Carlisle, 1802-64 ; statesman ; Member of Parliament for the West Riding, 1832-41 ; admitted to the Cabinet, 1839. [ 37 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND quence of Mr. Webster's engagement, of some stand- ing, to dine vfith Sir Robert Harry Inglis.i In the evening we attended the Opera again, and had Lady Wombwell's box, and returned more charmed than ever, with the divine music of " Lueretia Borgia " and the singing of Giulia Grisi. June 19. An anniversary always saddened by the loss of the best of Mothers eleven years ago. " Could one wish bring thee, would I wish thee here ? I dare not trust my heart — the dear delight Seems to be so desired, perhaps I might : But, no ; what we here call our life is such, So little to be loved, and thou so much. That I should ill requite thee to restrain Thy unbound spirit into bonds again." "We dined with Mr. 2 and Mrs. Grote ; s the for- mer is a member of Parliament of strong Whig principles, living in Eceleston Street. Mrs. Grote has the reputation of extraordinary abilities. She is a large, tall, masculine woman, and a great poli- tician, and has been accused (doubtless unjustly), of having written for him, her Husband's parliamentary 1 Sir Robert Harry Inglia, 2d baronet, 1786-1855 ; Tory poli- tician. 2 Georg-e Grote, 1794-1871 ; Historian ; Member of Parliament for the City of London, 1832-41. ^ Harriet Lewin, 1792-1878 ; biographer ; married George Grote 1820. [ 38 ] DINNEK WITH MR. GKOTB speeches. They have no children. I have thought that the English women were much better versed in politics generally, and more adequate for conversa- tion on these topics, than the women of our own country. On my left, was Sir William Molesworth,i a young man of talents, and liberal politics, a son of the late Baronet. Mr. Charles Austin 2 sat on my right hand. With the Aunt of this young barrister, we were engaged, to breakfast a week ago, when the illness of her husband Mr. Austin, prevented. Mrs. Grote had a large party beside, as seems to be cus- tomary here after a dinner. Contrary to the remon- strances of our hostess, we were obliged to leave, being first engaged for an hour to Mrs. Senior, and afterward to an agreeable party at Mrs. Stevenson's, where we met Mr.^ and Mrs. H. Joy,* cousius to our friends and relatives in America; s also Mr. N. P. Willis," who is now in England. 1 Sir William Molesworth, 8tli baronet, 1810-55 ; politician. 2 Charles Austin, 1799-1874 ; lawyer. s Henry Hall Joy, 1786-1840 ; Queen's Councillor. Hia grand- father and father were Loyalists at the time of the Revolution. * Mary Charlotte Greenalgh, daughter of James ; married Henry Hall Joy. 6 Ellen Marion White, 1812-61 ; daughter of Stephen and sister of Mrs. Paige ; married, 1835, John Benjamin Joy, 1814-64. « Nathaniel Parker WiUis, 1806-67 ; poet and writer. [ 39 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND June 20. To-day is the Queen's drawing-room, which Mrs. Webster and myself are to attend with Mrs. Stevenson, we cannot say " to be presented " as that has already taken place, at the Ball ; Julia having there satisfied her curiosity declines going, but has gone with Mrs. Bates, to a house near St. James' Palace to witness the show of the passing carriages, in full liveries for this great occasion. The Queen's hair-dresser has just received his guinea, after having " coiffed me a la mode," with seven high white ostrich feathers, blonde lappets, and a bandeau of diamonds. Mrs. Murray the Queen's dressmaker, has sent home the rest of my costume ; it consists of a tulle dress, richly trimmed with puff- ings of the same on the bottom of the skirt, over this, another tulle petticoat, the whole front of which is fuUy trimmed with flowers, and white satin rib- bon, beneath the lace dress is a satin, and over this, comes another skirt, or train of apricot silk, three yards in length, without a front breadth, displaying the flowers, and trimming of the lace dress beneath. Mrs. Webster wears a similar under-dress ; her train being of blue silk, both trains are full trimmed all around and lined with white sarcenet. C 40 ] THE QUEEN'S DRAWING-ROOM We published, the other day, for the gratification of our lady readers, the description of Mrs. Webster's dress, on presentation to the Queen. We find, in the Court Jour- nal, the following account of the costumes worn by Mrs. Stevenson, and Mrs. Paige. Mrs. Stevenson (the American Minister's lady) Cos- tume de Cour, composed of a rich pink satin train, lined through with white gros de Naples, elegantly ornamented with crape lisse, blonde, and flowers ; blonde berthe and sabots ; French tuUe dress, over rich white satin ; petti- coat trimmed en tabKer with blonde and ribbon. Head dress, blonde lappets and feathers ; parure of diamonds. Mrs. Paige. Train of rich apricot glace gros de Naples, trimmed with blonde; blonde mantilla and ruffles; petti- coat and tunic of tulle, over satin, festooned with bouquets of heath and apple blossom. Head dress, feathers and blonde lappets; ornaments, diamonds.' June 21. At two o'clock yesterday, we drove to Mrs. Stevenson's, according to appointment. In her drawing-rooms we found the other ladies, who were to be presented, and a still larger party wlio had as- sembled as spectators. Returning again to our car- riages, we were set down at the Ambassadors' entree, at St. James's, and after ascending a staircase, walked through several passages, lined with very decently dressed females, who were there seated, patiently waiting to catch a glimpse of the passing court cos- ^ Newspaper clipping. [ 41 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGIiAND tumes. Mrs. Bronson of New York -was in the car- riage with Mrs. Webster and myself; and the re- mainder of the party, through an accident, were detained for twenty minutes after we had reached the ante-room. After their arrival, and giving our names to the Secretary, to be inserted in a book kept for the purpose, we all passed " en train " to the adjoining apartment, filled with the Ambassa- dors, Ministers &c., awaiting their turn to appear before their Sovereign. This was the privileged en- tree; another apartment the passage to which, was guarded, by the officers of the household, and the communication between, partly prevented by brass railings, was also filled with expectant faces, and evening feathers, and glittering jewelry. The effect of this fuU dress, by daylight, and the warmth of a July atmosphere, was peculiar. ^The other American ladies who were of our party at this presentation were, Mrs. Chase of Louisiana, whose train was of green uncut velvet, Mrs. Jaudon, who wore one of blue brocaded satin. Miss Murray of New York, who wore a pink watered silk train, Mrs. Bronson, who (being in mourning), wore white watered silk, and Miss Low, who also had a pink train and petti- coat of tuUe. At the head of the room, where we C 42 ] THE QUEEN'S DRAWING-ROOM had assembled, were two doors. These were very shortly opened, with some ceremony. Our party was the second, and following Mrs. Webster, preceded by Mrs. Stevenson, we slowly entered the left hand door, and found ourselves immediately in the pres- ence of her " little Majesty." The Queen was stand- ing upon the throne, or raised platform, and ranged on each side, were the Duchess of Kent, Duchess of Gloucester i and other female members, of the Royal family. The Queen courtesied and we did the same, first looking at her Majesty, and then at those at either side, who of course acknowledged it, by doing the like. The Groom of the Chambers, as we en- tered, arranged our long trains in folds, upon the floor, and immediately after the ceremony, he raised them up, and placing them like a drapery over our left arm, we left the presence chamber, and facing all the while the Queen, we passed out of the right hand door into the same apartment we had left. Here at a greater distance, we could still witness the presentations ; but beside this, there was much to engi'oss our attention in this apartment. We were favored with an introduction to many distinguished 1 Princess Mary, daughter of George III, 1776-1857; married 1816, William Frederick, Duke of Gloucester. [ 43 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND people, and many others were pointed out to us, not before known. Here, I had the great satisfaction of seeing, the Duke of Wellington,! the most remark- able man in all England, without doubt. On his arm was timidly leaning, his daughter-in-law, the young Marchioness of Douro,^ just a bride, and this her presentation by the Duke. I was much struck with her beauty, and the elegant simplicity of her dress, a point lace, over satin, and three rows of large diamonds, each in a separate setting, extend- ing down the waist, to the point of the long boddice. Mrs. Murray the dressmaker, told me, that she and her Daughter must sit up all the night through, in order to accomplish the sewing on of these jewels, the bridal gift of her distinguished Father-in-law. The Marchioness' whole " tournure " was in admir- able taste. The Princess Doria was also present, and I heard herself, and the young Marchioness called the " twin stars of the Queen's drawing-room." We remained in this ante-room about three quarters of 1 Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, 1762-1852 ; field marshal; leader of ConsorTative Opposition in Hoase of Lords, 1835-41. ^ Lady Elizabeth Hay, daughter of George, 8th Marquis of Tweeddale ; married 1839, Arthur Richard Wellesley, Marquis of Douro, later 2d Duke of Wellington. [ 44 ] DINNER WITH MRS. DENISON an hoivr, and having satisfied our curiosity, we pre- pared to depart. The female attendants below, neatly arranged our troublesome trains, like a shawl over our shoulders, and we drove back to our lodgings. Before exchanging our dresses, we paid a visit to our friends, Mrs. Green, Mrs. Amory, and Mrs. Hammond who are also our fellow lodgers at " the Brunswick." At 7 o'clock, we went to dine with Mrs. Denison, and her Son, the Bishop of Salis- bury, i The latter is distinguished as being the youngest, among all the English Protestant bishops. Here we met an intelligent Scotch gentleman named Dundas. A Mr. Wood, related to Earl Grey 2 sat on my left, and Mr. Colville, an agreeable per- son, on my right. Baron ^ and Lady Parke were also present, at dinner. They have two beautiful and interesting daughters, who seem to be great favor- ites in society. A large party assembled after dining, with many new faces, but the most interesting per- son to me, was the lovely bride elect, of our kind host, the Bishop. She is a Miss Seymer,^ and the 1 Edward Denison, 1801-54, Bishop of Salisbury. 2 Charles Grey, 2d Earl Grey, 1764-1845 ; statesman. 8 Sir James Parke, 1782-186S ; judge. * Louisa Maria Seymer, daughter of Henry Ker; married 1839, Edward Denison, Bishop of Salisbury; died 1841. [ 45 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND nuptials are only postponed for a very short period, in consequence of a death, in the family of the lady. She was dressed in deep mourning, which added to the charm and interest of her beauty. At half past 11 o'clock, after once more exchanging our dresses for lighter ones, of tuUe and flowers, we went to a magnificent fete at the town house of the Marquis of Westminster, in Grosvenor Street, whose magnificent mansion " Eaton Hall," in Cheshire county, I have previously described, it being one of four splendid country seats. This present house, stands one hun- dred feet from the street, the way up to which was temporarily covered, and prettily ornamented, with greens, flags, and various devices. Our carriage set us down at this entrance, and soon, were our names echoing, from servant, to servant, and from room to room, until after promenading through five splendid apartments, we entered the sixth one (the ball-room), through a large window; this was very spacious, temporarily built over the grounds, and garden, and adorned with flags, and every variety of rare plants, and growing shrubs. At the extremity of this room hung a crimson curtain, which after the lapse of about half an hour, was raised, discovering a supper table, splendidly furnished with gold plate, and cov- [ 46 ] THE QUEEN'S DANCING ered with every luxury, and device, both of nature and of art. Pines in abundance, surmounting a sil- ver gilt basket, filled with chen-ies, strawberries, and other costly fruits grown, under glass. The con- fectionery was very beautiful, and new to me. As "her Majesty" (I quote from the morning paper), " did the Marquis of Westminster the distinguished honour of being present," another supper-room for herself, and the other members of the Royal family was simultaneously opened, on the opposite side of the suite of apartments. The Queen was dressed in a blue crepe, over white, ornamented with roses, the centre of each, being set with a large brilliant, and a wreath of roses on her head, each rose with one of these precious gems. The Queen does not sanction the wearing of feathers, in dancing; this is consid- ered decided " mauvais ton." Her Majesty when not dancing (which she did constantly), sat on a raised platform, on one side of the ball-room, sur- rounded by her family. Court, and also by the Mar- chioness of Westminster. The " gold stick in wait- ing," stood at the foot, and with a low bow, on receiving her Majesty's orders, respecting the part- ner she might choose for the ensuing dance, he then hacked from the presence, with the happy announce- [ 17 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND ment to the envied partner and lie appearing, and taking the Queen's fingers, led her to the dance. Once, I observed the young and handsome Marquis of Douglas,* 1 son of the Duke of Hamilton to be the favored personage ; it was whispered that he was thought to be a prodigious favorite, and that the Koyal eye was kindly bent in that quarter. The Queen herself must take the lead in conversation, and no remark is made except in reply to those of her Majesty. She dances well, and appears con- scious of it too. Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, their rel- atives, Mr.2 and Mrs. Abraham Van Buren s and the attache Mr. Singleton (brother to Mrs. Van Buren), were the only Americans present, beside ourselves. * Lord Douglas reminded me strongly of John Sullivan,' but he ia considerably taller, and a very handsome, elegant man; he ia cousin to Mr. Charles A. Murray, and married afterward, the Prin- cess Mary 2 of Baden. (H. S. P.) 1 John Turner Sargent Sullivan, 1813-48 ; lawyer. ^ Princess Marie Am^lie Elizabeth Caroline, daughter of Charles Louis Frederick, reigning Grand Duke of Baden, and cousin of Napoleon III ; married, 1843, William Alexander Anthony Archi- bald Hamilton, Marquis of Douglas. ' William Alexander Anthony Archibald Hamilton, Marquis of Douglas, later 11th Duke of Hamilton, 1811-63. 2 Abraham Van Buren, 1807-73, son of President Van Bm-en; soldier. 8 Angelica Singleton, 1820 (?) -78 ; danghter of Richard ; mar- ried, 1838, Abraham Van Buren. She was niece of Andrew Steven- son. [ 48 ] BREAKFAST WITH MR. MILMAN Weippert's splendid band of 26 gave us the finest ' music, and the whole scene was truly one of delight, and enchantment. After supper, we went to enjoy the rare paintings in the "gaUery." This is 150 feet long, and contains some of the rarest works of the old masters in England, particularly four very large, and valuable " Rubens," in quite a different style, from anything I had ever seen, of this great artist. We were presented to many people, and were gratified at seeing many more, known by name and reputation. "We returned to our lodgings in time, to see the daylight dawn, sorely fatigued both in mind and body. Friday, June 21. i Breakfasted with the Rev'd. Mr. Mibnan 2 and his pretty, and interesting wife. He is an author, a poet, as well as one of the Pre- bendaries of Westminster Abbey, and his house communicates through the gardens, with the Abbey itself. Before leaving home Mr. Webster received a note from Mr. Milman, stating that "he thought proper to inform him, that his children were ailing with the whooping cough, in case Miss Webster had 1 The date is repeated. 2 Henry Hart Milman, 1791-1868 ; Dean of St. Panl's ; Eector of St. Margaret's, Westminster, 1835. [ 49 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND not yet had that distressing complaint." Mr. Mil- man entertained an idea, that Miss Webster was yet a child, which mistake caused some merriment, when she appeared. Lockhart was present (we had previ- ously met him at a soiree at Miss Rogers') ; Taylor,' the author of Philip von Artevelde, Mr. Thurwell a professor at Cambridge, the Eev'd. Mr. Harness, an unmarried clergyman, and Miss Cockle, sister to Mrs. Milman were the guests. After breakfast, by a private passage, we entered with the above men- tioned party Westminster Abbey, and I saw for the first time, the interior of this glorious edifice, hal- lowed by time, and a thousand associations of the past. I had the good fortune to go over a large por- tion, on the arm of Lockhart, and found him full of charming conversation and poetical allusions. Lockhart has the misfortune of being a little deaf, and the consciousness of this infirmity gives him the appearance, and reputation, of being both haughty, and reserved, but I should do him great injustice, if on this occasion, I did not acknowledge myself, much charmed, with the son-in-law of Scott, and separated from him with a strong desire for a more intimate acquaintance. 1 Sir Henry Taylor, 1800-86; author. [ 50 ] WESTMINSTER ABBEY " It has been my wont, To pause o'er some fine thought, and feel that he Who gave it utterance was my friend. "- Respecting the Abbey itself, I coiild say much, but vohtmes are already filled, with far better de- scriptions than mine, of this time-honored and beauti- ful structure. I can hardly say, whether I was more struck with the rich Gothic of its vast exterior, or overwhelmed with all the historic associations that crowded on my mind, in walking among the tombs, and viewing the achievements of the " illus- trious dead " ; the scene itself, " Became religion, and the heart ran o'er With silent worship of the great of old." I paused before the tombs of " Marie Stuart," and of the " Virgin Queen." A horizontal marble figure or effigy, adorns the tomb of each, and is supposed to bear somewhat of a resemblance ; Queen Bess is much flattered, for this is more prepossess- ing than is inferred by most descriptions of her per- sonal appearance. Poor Mary, looks gentle, and in- capable of the black crime attributed to her. Here is quite observable that beauty of feature for which all the race of Plantagenet,* was said, to be so re- * The effigy of Henry III (a Plantagenet) is of gilt brass, and well executed. Another of Edward III lies extended on a grey [ 51 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND markable. The very ancient tombs were deeply inter- esting ; the remains of the paint, and gilt, with which it was formerly the custom to ornament the figures, is still visible, and in many instances the tombs have been restored by the descendants of the deceased. "We saw the tomb of the " brave Andre " i highly orna- mented with emblems, and figures ; his remains were not long since exhumed, and brought from America to their present resting place. A statue of "Watt" ^ the energetic steam supporter, by Chantrey; Isaac Watts 5 the divine, and Milton, and Chaucer, and Dryden, and many, many others " known to fame " ; the list is endless, of kings, heroes, and statesmen, whose remains lie here. I greatly admired a marble figure of a female beggar in a sitting posture, weep- ing on the tomb of " a lady known for her char- ities." Lockhart remarked on leaving the Abbey, that " he had never seen it so thoroughly, or enjoyed it so highly." We afterward went to the "record office " and saw a number of literary curiosities, two marble slab, and at its head, the shield, and sword of this prince, the latter, seven feet long. (H. S. P.) 1 John Andr^, 1751-80 ; major. 2 James Watt, 1736-1819 ; engineer. ' Isaac Watts, 1674-1748 ; divine and hymn writer. [ 52 ] DOMESDAY BOOK or three " papal bulls," and the original Domesday book. The following is the ancient description of the " Domesday book." " Then King William to learn the worth of his land, Let enquiry stretch throughout all England, How many plough land and hiden also, Here iu every shire, and what they were worth thereto ; And the rents of each town, and the waters each one. The worth, and woods eke, and wastes where lived none ; By that he wist what he were worth of all England, And set it clearly forth that all might understand. And had it clearly written, and that script he put I wis In the treasurie of Westminster, where it still is." Saturday, June 22. We were all asked by Lord Morpeth, son of the Earl of Carlisle, and brother to the Duchess of Sutherland, to a breakfast, at 5 o'clock, at the villa of the Duke of Devonshire at Chiswick, but we had a long standing engagement to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Bates in Portland Place at 7 o'clock, and had already declined invitations from Lord and Lady Lyndhurst for the same hour, and day. Many friends urged our attending this fete, and boats were promised to procure our arrival in town, m season for the dinner, but on consulting with Mrs. Bates, we found her somewhat opposed, to this plan, and in justice to our kind friend, we gave up this truly tempting excursion. [ 53 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Sir Thomas Baring,' and his Daughter were among the guests in Portland Place, and the former told me, as he sat on my right at dinner, that both himself and Miss Baring had just returned from the villa at Chiswick, and that the fete was very successful, and delightful. Lord 2 and Lady Radstock,^ Mr. La- bouchere,* my right hand neighbor, and the Rev'd. Sydney Smiths were among the guests. This last named is a celebrated wit, and writer, and is a canon of St. Paul's. After dinner we went to a Soiree at Mr. Babbage's, where we met a younger sister of Miss Edgeworth,6 rather a peculiar looking person, with short, and dark curly hair. We also, chatted some time with Miss Jane Porter.^ She is a thin person, not at all handsome, but with a sensible, and agree- able physiognomy, dressed in black in quite an old- fashioned style; I should suppose her about fifty years old. She made many enquiries about our country, » Thomas Baring, 1799-1873; financier. 2 George Granville Waldegrave, 2d Baron Eadstock, 1786-1857; vice-admiral. 8 Esther Caroline Puget, daughter of James ; married, 1823, George Granville Waldegrave, 2d Baron Radstock. * Henry Labouch^re, Ist Baron Taunton, 1798-1869 ; statesman ; Under-Secretary of War and the Colonies, 1839. ^ Sydney Smith, 1771-1845 ; Canon of St. Paul's. 8 Maria Edgeworth, 1767-1849 ; novelist. ' Jane Porter, 1776-1850 ; novelist. [ 54 ] THE CHAPEIi ROYAL and expressed the highest reverence, and admiration, for the character of Washington. Sunday, June 23. Mr. Charles Augustus Murray sent us tickets last evening, for the Chapel Royal this morning, and wrote word that her Majesty would be present, and to the Chapel Royal therefore, we went, and saw the Queen in her " closet " which is sinailar in external appearance to the orchestra of our own churches. The Dowager Queen Adelaide i was also there. The doors, and passages were crowded with people, trying to catch a glimpse of the Queen. The cathedral ceremony, to my Puritan eyes, savours greatly of the Catholic, the services here, were per- formed by four or five different clergymen, and the psalter, and responses all chanted. Julia went to the church called, " St. Martin's-in-the-Fields," at the in- vitation of another friend. On our return from church we went, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Bates, to pay a visit to Lady Wellesley,^ who had been for some weeks confined by indisposition to the house. 1 Adelaide Louisa Theresa Caroline Amelia, daughter of George, Duke of Saxe-Meiningen ; married, 1818, William IV; died 1849. 2 Marianne (Caton) Patterson, daughter of Richard Caton of Maryland, and widow of Robert Patterson; married, 1825, Richard Wellesley, Marquia Wellesley, Governor-General of India; died 1853. [ 55 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND This celebrated granddaughter of Charles Carroll,* is still a superb woman, and although thin, and pallid, by iUness, possesses the remains of great beauty and charm of manner, for which latter, she is quite con- spicuous. I thought her intelligent and gentle. She made several enquiries respecting the last court draw- ing-room, and remarked, that not being herseK able to attend, " the Duke " had sent for her inspection, the diamonds, that afterwards ornamented the dress of her niece, the Marchioness of Douro, and that Mrs. Murray was occupied from early in the morning, until the hour for going to court, in sewing on the diamonds, of the boddice alone. The Rev'd. Sydney Smith had asked us to tea quite imceremoniously, and there we met his two married daughters, with their Husbands, and several agreeable gentlemen, among them Professor Smyth * 2 of Cam- bridge College, who excited our curiosity somewhat, by taking Mr. Webster into an adjoining room, for a " private conference," but we found afterward, it was only to request, that when Mr. Webster proposed * Regius Professor of History. (H. S. P.) 1 Charles Carroll, 1737-1832 ; politician ; signer of the Declara- tion of Independence. 2 William Smyth, 1765-1849; Professor of Modern History at Cambridge. [ 56 ] TEA W.ITH SYDNEY SMITH visiting Cambridge, he would previously inform Pro- fessor Smyth of his intention by letter. Mrs. Smith is a kind, motherly woman, whom we had not before seen. We were served with ice-cream in small plates, and afterward with goblets of iced water. Mr. Smith is now an advocate for the tem- perance cause, and gives his friends no beverage stronger than tea. Monday, June 24. We drove down to the " city " this morning, and spent some time in looking at the treasures at Rundell & Bridge's shop, and saw many articles of gold and sUver, of great weight and beauty, and jewels of inestimable value. From there, we went to a manufactory of painted slate tables, a new discovery; they are much handsomer than the scagliola, and the polish beside being finer, wiU not injure by time or using. We saw one in daily use, which had been so, uncovered, for three years, and quite fresh and uninjured. I think this must super- sede all other articles for centre-table tops &c. Two that were ordered by an American friend were very handsome, and finished ready for mounting. From thence we went to St. Paul's cathedral, which was built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1675. The vastness of the interior is very striking, but [ 57 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND the exterior is so blackened by the smoke of London, that its beauty of architecture is almost lost ; and then the Corinthian order is so much less imposing than the Gothic of Westminster Abbey. We visited the " whispering gallery," and ascended to the dome, and saw London from its exterior ; went also to the library, and descended to the crypt where are the tombs of many conspicuous men. The remains of Nelson lie in the centre of the church, over which is his tomb. The visit was one of great interest, and I much regretted the absence of Julia, who had gone to ride, with " Fanny," and her Master (Mr. Senior), to breakfast at Richmond Hill, with Mrs. Austin. At seven o'clock we dined with the Earl of Sel- kirk,! liig Mother, the Countess of Selkirk, 2 and the two daughters, Ladies Isabella ^ and Katherine^ Douglas. Lord Selkirk's acquaintance we all had the pleasiure of making shortly before leaving Amer- ica, and Mr. Webster, just before our embarkation, received from his Lordship a present of a valuable fowling piece used by him in deer shooting excur- 1 Dunbar James Douglas, 6th Earl of Selkirk, 1809-85. ^ Jean Wedderbum-Colvile, daughter of James; married, 1807, Thomas Douglas, 5th Earl of Selkirk ; died, 1871. " Lady Isabella Ellen Douglas, sister of the Earl of Selkirk. * Lady Kath«rine Jane Douglas, sister of the Eail of Selkirk. [ 58 ] BREAKFAST WITH MONCKTON MILNBS sions, oil his estate at St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcud- brightshire. Among the guests, were Lord Abinger ' (formerly Sir James Scarlett), and his Son, Mr. Scarlett,^ who had with him his extremely pretty and interesting wife, Mrs. Scarlett,' and Sir Stratford * and Lady Canning,^ the former was once Minister to the United States of America; beside these there were present several gentlemen. June 25. Breakfasted in Pall Mall, with Mr. Richard Monckton Milnes. He is a bachelor of some twenty-eight, or thirty years, and has already ac- quired no mean reputation as a poet and politician. He is a Member of Parliament and represents Ponte- fract. Mr. Milnes, although acknowledged to be an agreeable, and clever man, and attractive too, is accused of being too consequential, and important, spoiled in fact by the injudicious flattery of admir- * James Scarlett, 1st Baron AbiDger, 1769-1844 ; Btatesman. 2 Sir James Yorke Scarlett, 1799-1871 ; general ; Member of Parliament for Guildford, 1836-41. 8 Charlotte Anne Hargreavea, daughter of .John; married, 1835, Sir James Yorke Scarlett. * Stratford Canning, 1st Viscount Stratford de RedclifFe, 1786- 1880 ; diplomatist; styled "the Great Elchi " ; Member of Parlia- ment for King's Lynn, 1835-41 ; Envoy to Washington, 1820-24. ' Elizabeth Charlotte Alexander, daughter of Jamea ; married, 1825, Sir Stratford Canning. C 59 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND ing friends. He has genius, and is " petted by the women." Can that account for the abuse of his own sex ? At any rate, I may acknowledge that I have not seen a more attractive man, without a particle of personal beauty (he is very short too), since I have been in England. Our breakfast party was composed of Mr. Colville, two gentlemen, translators of Nie- buhr's Eome, a blond and pretty lady, wife of a Member of Parliament, whose name I have now for- gotten, and Mr. Phillips, a young barrister of reputa- tion, whom Mr. Webster had also known, at Wash- ington. Mr. MUnes is also an amateur musician ; he plays the piano forte, and presented me with a song, the words, and I believe the music, his own composi- tion. It is called the " Venetian Serenade." He pre- sented to Mrs. Webster, and to myself copies of his " Poems of many Years " recently published. After breakfasting Mr. Phillips accompanied us to the House of Lords. The court was sitting, and I saw for the first time, the judges, and lawyers, in their wigs, and robes. It so entirely changed the appear- ance of their wearers, that I did not recognize when they spoke to me, either Baron Vaughan,i or Baron 1 Sir John Vaughan, 1769-1839 ; judge ; Justice of Common Pleas, 1834-39. [ 60 ] THE HOUSE OF LORDS Parke, although knowing them both well. The House of Lords, is a comparatively small apartment, used but temporarily until a new Parliament house can be built. The present House of Commons, is the former House of Lords, but as the ladies are never admitted during the sessions, we saw but the vacant house. Our first visit to the House of Lords had been already made, on the day we visited the Abbey. Lord Lovelace took us to the "Ushers Black Rod box," the only place where ladies are admitted ; there we saw the Vice-ChanceUor on the Wool Sack, and "the Duke " in his seat, made a few remarks upon the "postponement biU," as did Lord Powerscourt, Lord Lyndhurst, and Lord Brougham. i The Duke of Wellington wore a white waistcoat buttoned to the chin, white neckcloth, and the customary Eng- lish morning frock coat. He has very stooping shoul- ders, in consequence of advanced age, and very white, thin, straight hair. He speaks but indistinctly, the voice at times quite low, then raised again to a shrill, high pitch, reminding one of an aged clergyman, with whom half the words are lost. Lord Brougham is decidedly ugly, is fuU of gesticulation, and has a 1 Henry Peter Brougham, Baron Brougham and Vaux, 1778- 1868 ; Lord Chancellor. [ 61 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND peculiarly prominent, flexible nose, square at the end, and somewhat retrousse. This feature as he talks, is constantly in motion, all the lines about the mouth, and cheeks are subject to a most unfortunate nervous twitching scarcely ceasing, even for a mo- ment. He speaks nevertheless with some fluency, but has the English stammer. Lord Lyndhurst is de- cidedly the best speaker we have yet heard, being free in a great degree from this unfortunate peculiar- ity. Lord Melbourne hesitates, repeats, and stam- mers, in the simplest conversation. In short, this stammering, is a general fault here, both in public, and in private. It is very tiresome, to await the out- coming of a word, when one already knows, what that stumbling word wiU be. The morning after the visit alluded to, the news- papers announced that " Mrs. Webster the wife of the American Senator, was in the Black Rod box the previous night." But to return to this, our sec- ond visit with Mr. Phillips. After we had had pointed out to us the spot, where the unfortunate Mr. Perce- val i was shot, in the House of Commons, we pro- ceeded, to visit Westminster Hall, where Parliaments 1 Spencer Perceval, 1762-1812 ; stateBman. He was shot in the lobby of the House of Commons. [ 62 ] WESTMINSTER HALL have often sat, and Coronation feasts occur, and Peers, and other distinguished persons accused of treason, and other crimes, and misdemeanors, have been tried. Warren Hastings' i trial to'ok place here, and Lord lMelviIle's.2 It is one of the largest rooms in Europe, unsupported by pillars ; the roof is curi- ously carved, in Gothic, with chestnut wood, and the Gothic windows, at the extremes are very striking. After driving over several of the bridges, and through various interesting portions of London, seen for the first time, we returned home to luncheon, and after- ward made twenty morning visits until 6 o'clock, when we again returned to dress for a dinner with Mr. and Mrs. Archibald, York Terrace, Regent's Park. Among the guests, was " His Royal Highness the Duke of Brunswick,"' cousin of her Majesty, a stupid person ; he sat on my left, but I could extract from him nothing intelligent, or agreeable. Besides this, we had Sir Duncan MacDougall,'' Mr. and Mrs. ^ Warren Hastings, 1732-1818; Governor- General of India. He ■was impeached on the ground of corruption and cruelty in his In- dian administration, but acquitted. ^ Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, 1742-1811. He was im- peached for malversation, and guilty of negligence, but acquitted. ' August Louis William Maximilian Frederick, 1806-84; suc- ceeded in 1831. * Sir Duncan MacDougall, 1787-1862 ; lieutenant-colonel, 79th Cameron Highlanders. [ 63 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Lamie-Murray, and Bishop Inglisi of Nova Scotia, and daughter. We were much urged to remain at Mrs. Archibald's evening party, but we were already engaged to a ball at the Marquis of Normanby's. On reaching home however, the question for going, or not going, to the ball, was put to vote, and we all with one accord, decided in the negative, preferring to seek the "arms of Nature's soft nurse" to the most brilliant ball, that a London season could offer. In short, we were quite done up, and did not rise until a late hour on the following morning. ji June 26. Made many more visits, ending at Storr & Mortimer's tempting shop in Bond Street. Mr. Webster went to the Royal levee, exclusively for gentlemen, in full court costume, which became him excessively. As he made his devoirs, her Majesty, as she acknowledged them, remarked : " I had the pleasure of seeing you Mr. Webster, at the chapel, on Sunday." In the evening, we attended a grand concert at Lansdowne House. The music-room was very spacious, and elegant, embellished with antique statuary, and numerous lofty candelabra. The Italians sang divinely. The rank and fashion of London were present. Among them were Sir 1 John Inglig, 1778-1850 ; Bishop of Nova Scotia. [ 64 ] SHERIDAN'S GRANDDAUGHTERS Robert,! Lady, 2 and Miss Peel. The latter is short, quite young, and unlike her Father, she has dark eyes. His are blue, with light hair, high forehead, and a very good, intellectual, expressive face ; he is about 60 years old. My desire was gratified by the sight of Lady Seymour,^ and her no less celebrated sister the Hon. Mrs. Norton.'' Both these granddaughters of the celebrated Sheridan, are very justly admired for their personal beauty, but Mrs. Norton's is of a more intel- lectual, less regular, and of a decidedly higher order than Lady Seymour's ; the former has a large mouth, betokening energy, and decision, the latter a tran- quil, regular loveliness, which is certainly very win- ning and attractive. Lady Lansdowne 5 is a firm, and 1 Sir Robert Peel, second Baronet, 1788-1850 ; statesman ; in Opposition, 1839. " Julia Floyd, danghterof Sir John, Baronet; married, 1820, Sir Eotert Peel, 2d Baronet. ^ Jane Georgiana Sheridan, daughter of Thomas ; married, 1830, Edward Adolphus Seymour, 12th Duke of Somerset ; died, 1884, aged 75. * Caroline Elizabeth Sarah Sheridan, 1808-77 ; poetess ; daughter of Thomas ; married, 1827, Hon. George Chappie Norton, from ■whom she separated in 1836 ; distinguished for her beauty and wit. Lord Melbourne was accused by her husband of being too intimate with her, but the trial proved both innocent. Dickens got hints of "Bardell v. Pickwick " from this trial. 6 Louisa Emma Fox-Strangways, daughter of Henry Thomas, 2d Earl of Ilchester ; married, ISOS, Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, 3d Mar- quis of Lansdowne ; died, 1851 . [ 65 ] . DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND fast friend to Mrs. Norton, and enthusiastic in her defence against all those unfortunate, and well known slanders, that have reached even our own shores. Mrs. Norton has scarcely the bearing of contentment or happiness, and is much changed of late, they say. Lady Seymour reminds me of Elizabeth Bryant i of Boston, but she is taller, and has a superb complex- ion, and of course is more beautiful than our friend Elizabeth, although there is a striking similarity of expression. ,.,) June 27. Breakfasted with Sir Eobert H. Inglls; Lady Inglis was not in town, a fact we were previ- ously told, by Sir Robert. Here we met Mr. Spring- Rice, ^ the Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sir Strat- ford Canning, Sir Robert Wilmot Horton,^ Mr. Morier, brother to the author of that agreeable book " Hajji Baba," * and Sir Thomas Dyke Acland,^ with whom we all fell in love. He urged us to visit 1 Elizabeth Bryant, 1818-43 ; daughter of John ; married, 1840, Patrick Grant of Boston. ^ Thomas Spring-Rice, 1st Baron Monteagle of Brandon, 1790- 1866 ; ChanceUor of the Exchequer, 1835-39. 3 Sir Robert John Wilmot Horton, 3d Baronet, 1784-1841 ; poli- tician. * James Justinian Morier, ]780?-1849; diplomatist, traveler, and novelist ; author of Hajji Baba. ^ Sir Thomas Dyke Adand, 1787-1871; politician and philan- thropist ; Member of Parliament for North Devon, 1837-57. [ 66 ] THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL him at Killerton Paxk, and I hope we may yet have it in our power to accept. We heard some marvel- lous ghost stories, and had altogether a memorable, and agreeable breakfast. By appointment, at three o'clock, we went, in company with Sir Robert Wilmot Horton, to the Polytechnic School, and heard a short lecture upon the effect of light, in procuring colours, and witnessed some curious, and very interesting experiments, quite new to us, as illustration of the fact. Those with the electric battery were extremely interesting, fin- ishing with a grand explosion, by which, through a communication with the battery, a miniature vessel was instantly thrown up from the surface of a miniature sea. In the evening we went to a party at Baron, and Lady Parke's, 56 Park Street, where we met the Misses Denison and one of their numerous brothers, Lockhart, the Misses Mansfield, and their Mother, and Mrs. Mansfield, also Mrs. Beaumont, one of the prettiest women I have yet seen in London. She is a daughter of Mr. Timothy Wiggin, and married to a husband very much her senior, who was not pres- ent. I also saw a Mr. Blake, who on being presented, told me he was at the Virginia Springs during the [ 67 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND last summer, and " heard my Sister and myself sing, in the long room there." Of course he referred to Mrs. Gray,i as I frequently sang duets with her, in this room. The Misses Denison announced that their Brother, the Bishop of Salisbury, had been married that morning, and had already left town for Salis- bury, with his interesting bride. June 28. The appointed evening for Mrs. Bates' concert and Mrs. Stevenson's soiree. Her Majesty however had signified her intention of giving a grand ball, and cards of invitation had been issued accordingly. Mrs. Bates, and Mrs. Stevenson have in consequence issued their cards of postponement. We had the honor to receive a second mammoth card from the Lord Chamberlain for this occa- sion, but to-day, poor Lady Flora Hastings 2 (about whom there have been propagated so many cruel, and unfounded rumors), is declared to be dan- gerously ill, and the Queen has thought proper to relinquish the ball. Having afterward received > Elizabeth Stone WMte, 1809-42 ; danghter of Captam Joseph and Eliza (Story) ; married, 1829, Samuel Galley Gray, of Boston. She was a first cousin, on both sides, of Mrs. Paige. ^ Lady Flora Elizabeth Rawdon-Hastings, 1806-39 ;'daughter of Francis, 1st Marquis of Hastings. Lady of the Bedchamber to the Duchess of Kent, and subject of a court scandal in 1839. [ 68 ] MRS. STEVENSON'S SOIREE an intimation from Mrs. Stevenson that she is still " at home," and glad to receive us, we went at half past nine to Portland Place. The Queen's Uncle the Duke of Sussex, had been dining with the Amer- ican minister. In consequence of an eruption about his eyes and head, he wore green spectacles, and a dark velvet skull cap. His wife is not the "Duchess of Sussex," but Lady Cecilia Underwood. ' The Duke married without the consent of Parliament, and his wife cannot vrithout a special act, bear his title, or be acknowledged at Court. Sir William ^ and Lady Chatterton,^ it is always agreeable to meet ; the latter, has just published a clever book, called " Rambles in the South of Ireland." Sir Wil- liam's estates are there. Sir Charles Vaughan ■* for- merly, H.B.M. minister at Washington, Mr. Edward Ellice,^ brother-in-law of Earl Grey, Mr. and Mrs. 1 Cecilia Letitia Underwood, Duchess of Inverness ; daughter of Arthur Sannders Gore, 2d Earl of Arran , and widow of Sir George Buggin ; married, 1831, Augustus Frederick, Duke of Sussex ; died, 1873. ' Sir William Abraham Chatterton, 2d Baronet ; 1794-1855. ' Henrietta Georgiana Marcia Lascelles Iremonger, 1806-76; mis- cellaneous writer ; daughter of the Reverend Lascelles ; married, 1824, Sir William Abraham Chatterton, 2d Baronet. « Sir Charles Kichard Vaughan, 1774-1849 ; diplomatist ; am- bassador to the United States, 1825-35. S Edward Ellice, 1781-1863; politician; married Hannah Ale- thea Grey, daughter of Charles, let Earl Grey. [ 69 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Van Buren, and Baron and Lady Parke were among other guests present. Saturday, June 29. We have been sight-seeing, in company with several kind friends. First to the Goldsmiths' hall, where the law requires that all silver, or gold shall be assayed, or tested, as to its purity; whenever any article is found to fall short in point of weight, however beautiful or elaborate the work, it is instantly broken and destroyed. Sev- eral beautiful pieces of a tea-set, met our eyes, par- tially injured, having just been condemned. The precious metal was smelting in small crucibles, in the furnace, and we afterward witnessed the process of weighing, by which the quality to the minutest degree is ascertained. We greatly admired and al- most coveted, some beautiful gold, and silver plate, of Queen Elizabeth's time. This Goldsmiths' Com- pany is of ancient origin, having been founded in the time of Edward II. The exterior is a handsome building, although disfigured by London smoke. The dining-haU, drawing-rooms, and staircase are all very beautiful. The latter is ornamented with fine stat- ues, and busts. We were much interested in exam- ining a Roman Altar, about one foot in height, and a carved figure holding a bow and arrow, said to be [ 70 ] GOLDSMITHS' HALL intended for "Diana," and tradition goes, that an altar to tliis Goddess, once stood in this very spot. Their patron " St. Dunstan " was a " Goldsmith," they declared; and so was George IV, and also the present Lord Lyndhurst, and Lord Brougham and many others of the nobility. Their dinners are said to be agreeable, their tables, in shape are commend- able, spreadmg out circularly, on each side, the head of the table, being appropriated to distinguished persons, and guests. St. Dunstan still presides over the whole, and is seen holding the tongs, which ac- cording to the legend, he used when "the Devil asked him to do a bad job." From thence we went to " Guildhall," where the Queen dined at her cor- onation ; a sort of "City hall" where there were two very ridiculous figures carved of wood, called " Gog and Magog," arranged aloft in the corners ; but which was "Gog," and which "Magog" was left to our own conjecture. We crossed over London Bridge through the borough of Southwark, in order to pay a visit to the far-famed tunnel, about which so much curiosity has been felt in our own country. The prints, however, so often seen, give a very per- fect idea of its wonderful interior. "We had the good fortune to meet the aged architect, and in- [ 71 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND ventor, Mr. Brunei, i who is a Frenchman, and pro- jector of the whole work. He gave Mr. Webster some account of his early life, and said that some thirty or forty years ago, he had been employed as an architect in New York. He also presented Mr. Webster with a rusty hammer found imbedded many feet below the bed of the Thames. We saw also, an iron chimney-back of very ancient make, and form, discovered in the same way. Before returning from the city to our lodgings, we went to the " Mansion House " of the Lord Mayor, but we found little to at- tract us there. In the evening by particular request, and invitation from Macready 2 the actor, we went accompanied by Colonel Webb, of New York, and Captain Stockton to witness the representation of Shakspeare's play of King Henry V. Mr. Webster had gone to the House of Lords, and contrary to our expectations, did not get to " Covent Garden " for the evening. This play has been restored by Macready, who takes the part of the King, his per- formance was admirable ; too much cannot be said in praise of his unwearied efforts to restore the Brit- ish drama to its former reputation and eminence. * Sir Marc Isambard Brunei, 1769-1849 ; oitH engineer. ^ William Charles Macready, 1793-1873; actor; manager of CoTent Garden, 1837-39. [ 72 ] MACREADY IN HENKY V The King is seen in the play, to embark from Eng- land at the Tower Stairs, with his Court, retinue &c., then the Cliffs of Dover are seen, and the whole fleet appears sailing onward. The sun sets, the moon rises, finally, the French coast of Boulogne is visible, and gradually becomes more distinct. The bombard- ment takes place, then clouds appear, roU over, and conceal aU. Then comes a prologue, or " chorus," spoken by a figure, dressed as Time; he keeps the spectators informed of all the events that have oc- curred, and behind him, is a pictorial exhibition, of these scenes occurring, so skilfully managed that it seems reality. After this, the clouds disappear and the actors are again visible, but before each act. Time with his chorus appears, and from him we learn the course of events. Covent Garden is a spacious, large theatre ; our box was on a level with the orchestra, and below the stage, but so near to it, that our opportunity for enjoying this novel play, was particularly good. We have refused many invi- tations, both to dinner, and for evening parties dur- ing the last few days ; from Baron and Lady Parke, Mrs. Mansfield, Mrs. John Abel Smith,i the Mar- ^ Anne Clarke-Jervoise, daughter of Sir Samnel, Baronet ; mar- ried, 1827, John Abel Smith. [ 73 ] . DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND chioness of Lansdowne, Mrs. Grote, Lady Stepney,^ Miss Burdett-Coutts, Lady Shelley, Lady Ogle,^ and Lord Liverpool ' and Lady Louisa Jenkinson,'* all which from other engagements we were obliged to refuse. Sunday, June 30. Julia and myself attended St. Paul's Chape], and sat in Mrs. Bates' pew. I was not much pleased with the sermon. Mrs. Bates had invited us to a Sunday's dinner, but we declined, having taken the opportunity to ask some friends to dine with us, in Hanover Square ; Mr. Sewall Tap- pan, Colonel Heth and Captain Stockton, all three are our ov?n countrymen. After dinner, we went by invitation to Lady Wharncliffe's, Curzon Street, to visit her daughter-in-law, Lady Georgiana Stuart- Wortley. This lady is daughter of the Earl of Har- rowby, and her Husband is a descendant of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu,6 the authoress of the let- 1 Catherine (Pollock) Manners ; novelist ; daughter of the Rev. Dr. Pollock, and widow of Russell Manners; married, 1813, Sir Thomas Stepney, Baronet; died 1845. ^ Mary Anne Gary, daughter of George, and relict of John Dal- ton, Jr., and of Sir John Hayford Thorold, Baronet; married, 1834, as his third wife, Sir Charles Ogle, 2d Baronet. ' Charles Cecil Cope Jenkinson, 3d Earl of Liverpool, 1784- 1861 ; politician. * Lady Louisa Jenkinson, daughter of Lord Liverpool. 6 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, 1689-1762 ; writer of " Let- [ 74 ] LADY GEORGIANA STUART- WOKTLEY ters &c. To Mr. Stuart- Wortley, the husband, I had brought letters, from my Uncle, Mr. Justice Story.i Lady Georgiana is very clever, and very attractive ; she superintends, ia a degree, the education of her five children. She has read all of Jacob Abbott's * books, and is very enthusiastic about them, and is a great admirer of Madame de Saussure's^ "Progres- sive education," and tells me this clever relative of " de Stael " has added another volume to her inter- esting work. Lady Wharncliffe showed us a very beautiful miniature portrait of the late King, the work of Sir William Newton.^ It was the gift of his Majesty to Lady Wharncliffe, and she appears to value it highly, and says it is perfect, as a like- ness. Mr. Stuart-Wortley is a M.P., and a sensible, unassuming man. Some years ago, he with Mr. Deni- son, and Mr. Stratford Canning, were at Washing- ton, and he won at that time, the regard of all, by his simple, and unostentatious manners. He is like tera " ; danghter of Evelyn Pierrepont, 1st Duke of Kingston ; married, 1712, Edward Wortley Montagu. ^ Joseph Story, 1779—1845; Justice of the United States Supreme Court ; brother of Harriet (Story) White. ' Rev. Jacob Abbott, 1803-79; author of the "Rollo Books." ^ Mme. Albertine Adrienne de Saussure Necker, 176G-1841 ; Swiss authoress ; daughter of H. Bdn^dict de Saussure. ' Sir William John Newton, 1785-1869; miniature-painter. [ 75 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGIiAND all other gentlemen of the highest rank here ; they are conspicuous for their entire want of pretension and their simplicity in every respect. Lady Hadding- ton 1 was also present ; the Earl,^ was Lord Lieuten- ant of Ireland about five years ago, and I recollect some anecdotes illustrative of this lady's course, at that time. She has no children, and is neither very young, nor attractive in personal appearance. A tall Polish exile, talked good English and made himself agreeable. Mrs. Webster did not accompany us. Monday Morning, July 1. This is my Husband's birthday, I wonder if he remembers it ? Breakfasted with Mr. Samuel Rogers, the Poet and Banker, in company with T. B. Macaulay,^ member for Edin- burgh. Mr. Macaulay came back to England last year, from India, and for extensive information, and brilliant, and instructive conversation, he has prob- ably, no superior. He is also an orator, and an author of high celebrity. Next to Macaulay, sat Mr. Charles Augustus Murray, Master of the Queen's household. ' Maria Parker, daughter of George, 4th Earl of Macclesfield ; married, 1802, Thomas Hamilton, 9th Earl of Haddington. " Thomas Hamilton, 9th Earl of Haddington, 1780-1858; Lord- Lieutenant of Ireland, 1834-35. * Thomas Babington Macaulay, 1800-59 ; historian ; Member of Parliament for Edinburgh, 1839-47. [ 76 ] DINNER WITH SAMUEL ROGERS He has just published his book about America, said to be quite favorable to our country. He left soon after breakfast, "to order the Queen's dinner," as Rogers said, and he immediately produced Murray's new book, sent him by the author, the day before, and pointed out the passage where he speaks of Dan- iel Webster. Sir Charles Bagot, formerly British minister at the Hague, was also a guest, and Miss Eogers, the Sister of the poet. Mr. Rogers' house is small, but a " bijou " of curiosities, and works of art. The staircase walls are ornamented with exact casts of the Elgin marbles, and the rooms are filled with antique vases, and various utensils found at Her- culaneum. He has a fine cast of Wedgewood, from the Portland Vase. His walls are thickly hung with valuable paintings of the old Masters. His library of books is very choice, and many of them very rare. He shewed us Gray's poems in his own hand-writing. Dr. Johnson's own diary of a tour through France, in his own hand, also many other extremely interest- ing autographs, many of them, addressed to Rogers himself, from Walter Scott, Sheridan and Fox, from Pope and Dr. Franklin, but what soon rivetted our whole attention, and interest, was the identical deed in Milton's own hand-writing, where he sells to his [ 77 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND publisher, Samuel Symons, in 1666, the copyright of " Paradise Lost," for fifteen pounds. It is written on one page of foolscap, signed by the contracting parties, and witnessed by John Fisher, and Benjamin Greene, servant to Mr. Milton. The autograph of the great poet, is distinct, and regular, notwithstanding his want of sight. This in- teresting relic is carefully preserved, and, framed and glassed, hangs in the library of the "poet of memory." Mr. Kogers it is said, gave 70 guineas for this relic. Milton received but ten pounds, five being paid in advance, and five, at the expiration of two years when 1300 copies had been sold. For each edition not exceeding 1500 copies, five pounds were to be paid, but in seven years, the Poet died, and his widow disposed of all her " right, title, and interest " in the work for the additional sum of seven pounds. Thus, the whole copyright of " Paradise Lost " brought to the author, and his family but seventeen pounds, and the piece of paper on which this was written was sold, and eagerly purchased for seventy guineas. We were shown, by Mr. Eogers, a letter to him, from Lord Erskine, and also Sterne's sermons in his own hand-writing. The house looks from the rear on St. James's Park, and from its windows, and [ 78 ] DINNER WITH SAMUEL ROGERS gilded balcony, Buckingham Palace is distinctly seen. From the windows opening into the grounds, of the breakfast-room, Mr. Murray wended his way by a short cut, to the Queen's palace, and Rogers told us, that " it was not uncommon, when Murray was his g^iest at breakfast, for the butler, or household serv- ants of the palace, to foUow him there, and there re- ceive his orders for the dinner, respecting the number of covers, viands etc., for that day." Mr. Rogers called our attention, to a carved wooden pedestal, standing between the windows of his dining-room, supporting a bust. He told us that Sir Francis Chan- trey, the celebrated sculptor, was breakfasting with him, one morning, and some allusion having been made to this stand, of carved wood. Sir Francis turned to Rogers, and asked if he remembered the young man who about twenty years before, did that carv- ing for him? Rogers replied, that his recollection was not very distinct. " I am the young man," and " the money you paid me for that work, was some of the first I ever earned." Rogers was full of wit, and humour, and made us laugh very often with his playful stories, and anecdotes. His wit is so unex- pected, and often appears when one is least prepared for it. [ 79 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND At two o'clock, we went, through an order from Lord Grosvenor, son of the Marquis of Westminster, to view by daylight the paintings in Grosvenor House. We spent two hours there very satisfactorily and agreeably. Seven different apartments were opened for our inspection filled with these master-pieces of art. Colonel Heth was with us, and afterward accom- panied us to Sir William Newton's studio, where we had a favorable opportunity of examining his ex- quisite miniatures. Sir William was knighted by the late King. He has recently finished a portrait of Mrs. Ogden, wife of the American consul at Liverpool, i She is a beautiful woman, and sits with her infant on her left knee. Dined at half past seven with Baron,2 and Lady Alderson. I found myself be- tween Mr. Justice Coleridge,' and the Lord Bishop of Exeter.* Lockhart was also one of the guests. We were late, Mr. Webster having been tempted by an interesting debate in Parliament to overstay the hour. The Bishop of Exeter is a lion here, in the clerical ' F. B. Ogden, United States Constd at Liverpool, 1839. 2 Sir Edward Hall Alderson, 1787-1857 ; judge ; Baron of the Exchequer, 1834. 8 Sir John Taylor Coleridge, 1790-1876; judge; Justice of the King's Bench, 1835-58. 4 Henry PhUlpotts, 1778-1869; Bishop of Exeter, 1830-69. t 80 ] DINNER WITH LADY ALDEKSON way. He is at the head of the church, and is quite distinguished for his intellect and abilities ; his name is Phillpotts. A bishop's dress is peculiar, consisting of smallclothes, black silk stockings, a " quaker " cut coat, and a black bombasine apron reaching be-' low the knees. Until within a few years, Bishops wore wigs and surplices. Lady Alderson has a fine family of children, and seems an amiable, and motherly woman. She spoke of having known Mr. Ticknor many years ago, on his first visit to Eng- land. Many guests appeared after dinner, among them, was Mr. Hartley Coleridge, i the brother of the Judge, whom we had not met since our agreeable breakfast at Kenyon's. From his remarks I gathered, that he had been absent, and in my provincialism I enquired, " if he had been out of the city ? " (instead of town), he replied with quickness: " I do not live in the city Mrs. Paige, what made you suppose, that I lived in the city?" Mr. Justice,^ and Lady Colt- man were also at dinner, the latter, is a strong Uni- tarian, which I soon discovered from her questions, and remarks. She expressed her convictions with • Hartley Coleridge was a consin, not a brother, of the Judge. 2 Sir Thomas Coltman ; died 1849 ; Puisne Justice of the Common Pleas, 1837. [ 81 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND great earnestness, and feeling, and I was much touched, and interested in all she said. She seemed equally delighted to have learned that my own be- lief was hers. She spoke of Channing and was familiar with his writings, and with many other similar works. She is very anxious that her husband should join her, but education, and the force of habit still keep him a doubter. Before leaving Lady Al- derson's, at the earnest solicitation of Mr. Lockhart, Mr. Webster promised that we should dine, or break- fast with him, before leaving for Oxford, and he also assured Mr. Webster, that he should depend on our making his Brother's house our home, as he should himself be there, when we visited Scotland, on our way to the Falls of the Clyde. We learned on our return home, that Mrs. B»tes has been obliged for the third time, to postpone her concert, in conse- quence of the Dowager Queen having ordered the Italians to " Marlborough House." It was whispered too, that as gayety and excitement, were a matter of necessity to the young Queen, and that in conse- quence of the extreme illness of Lady Flora, nothing of the kind could take place at the palace, the Queen had desired Queen Adelaide, to get up something for amusement, and hence the postponement in Portland [ 82 ] DRIVE TO RICHMOND HILL Place. On the 4th of July Mrs. Bates hopes to ac- complish, her long talked of party. Tuesday, July 2. The Bishop of Londoni called this morning, and Lockhart, Lady Coltman, Lord and Lady Stanley,2 Mr. and Mrs. Sydney Smith, Miss Coutts, Countess Radnor,^ Lady Emily Pley- dell-Bouverie, the Duchess of Eichmond,^ Disraeli,^ Miss Jane Porter, Mrs. Opie,^ Mr. and Mrs. Faza- kerley. Upper Brook Street, the Countess of Dur- ham^ and Lady Mary Lambton,8 and the Earl of Dur- ham. We were however, gone on a morning's drive to Richmond HiU ; we stopped at the " Star & Gar- 1 Charles James Blomfield, 1786-1857 ; Bishop of London, 1828- 57. 2 Emma Caroline Bottle-Wilbraham, daughter of Edward, let Baron Skelmersdale ; married, 1825, Edward George Geoffrey Smith Stanley, Lord Stanley. 8 Anne Judith St. John-Mildmay, daughter of Sir Henry Paulet, Baronet ; married, 1814, William Pleydell-Bouverie, 3d Earl of Radnor. * Caroline Paget, daughter of Henry Willi.^m, 1st Marquis of Anglesey; married, 1817, Charles Gordon-Lennox, 5th Duke of Richmond. 6 Benjamin Disraeli, Ist Earl of Beaconsfield, 1804-81 ; states- man and man of letters. 6 Amelia Alderson, 1769-1853 ; novelist and poet ; daughter of James ; married, 1708, John Opie. ' Louisa Elizabeth Grey, daughter of Charles, 2d Earl Grey; married, 1816, John George Lamhton, 1st Earl of Durham. 8 Lady Mary Louisa Lamhton, daughter of John George, 1st Earl of Durham ; died, 1898. [ 83 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND ter," and enjoyed the lovely landscape and the " wind- ing Thames." After rambling about the grounds of Lord Lansdowne's charming villa, and through Rich- mond Park, in company with Mr.i and Mrs. Austin,^ we returned at one o'clock to their house to lunch. Miss Austin, who is soon to marry Sir William Gordon, is a taU, and rather striking looking girl. Mrs. Austin has remains of beauty, and has shown her cleverness in her various writings. A Miss Berry » came in, while we were there, having been sent for by Mrs. Austin. She is one of two maiden sisters, who were friends, and companions late in life, of Horace Walpole,^ and to whom he left " Strawberry Hill," where they reside. The other sister had been taken suddenly ill and could not appear. We re- turned to town, to dress for a long-standing dinner engagement, with the Hon. Edward Ellice a widower, whose late wife was sister, to the Earl Grey, and whose son, with his wife, were in Canada with Lord Durham, the former his private secretary, and cou- 1 John Anstin, 1790-1859 ; jurist. ^ Sarah Taylor, 1793-1867 ; translator ; daughter of John ; mar- ried John Austin. ° Agnes Berry, 1764-1852 ; daughter of Robert. * Mary Berry, 1763-1852 ; authoress ; daughter of Robert. Horace Walpole left them Little Strawberry Hill ; Strawberry Hill went to Mrs. Damner. [ 84 ] EARL GREY sin. Mrs. EUice, presides over the present establish- ment of her Father-in-law. We met, at this house, an agreeable coterie. The Earl Grey handed me in to dinner, and on my left was the Countess of Dur- ham, whom contrary to general report, in America, I found, friendly and agreeable ; her Daughter, Lady Mary Lambton was opposite. The only unmarried daughter of Lord Grey, Lady Georgiana Grey was there also. Lady Georgiana invited us to visit them at " Hovvick," Northumberland, an invitation which was cordially seconded by the Earl, her Father. Mr. Ellice had seats at his table, for Lord Palmetston, Lord Denman, and Lord Brougham, and they had all promised to appear, but a very interesting debate was taking place, in the House of Lords, on the sub- ject of Education, and Mr. Ellice was disappointed of his ffuests. Mr. Webster found himself so much interested in this very debate, that the appointed dinner hour had arrived before he returned to dress. Lord Durham himself was Ul in bed. We had often seen him before ; he is a youthful looking person, with an agreeable countenance, and short, curling, black hair. Lord Grey resembles the portraits seen everywhere. He cannot be mistaken. He is in all respects a fine, majestic looking man, with white [ 85 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND hair, and a very aristocratic bearing. Notwithstand- ing his reputation for taciturnity, I found him dis- posed to be entertaining and agreeable. He talked of America, and various other matters. The staircase, ceilings, and the dining-room are all in Gothic style, and Mr. EUice's drawing-room is richly furnished in Gothic blue, and gilt ; the doors are thus, and the whole menage is in elegant taste and style. It is much the custom, to receive, previous to dinner, in a library, or an apartment contiguous to the dining- room, and after dining, to withdraw, with the ladies, to the most splendid room of all, which is the draw- ing-room of course; in about twenty minutes, the gentlemen appear, coffee is immediately served, and after a short interval, tea. Earl Grey wore the order of the garter round his knee, the broad blue rib- bon across his chest, and a brilliant star on his left breast. Wednesday, July 3. Mrs. Stevenson brought us a verbal invitation yesterday, to go to a fete, at Mrs. Maryatt's to-day " to eat strawberries." Mrs. Maryatt having recently lost a sister, the party is to be given in the name of her Daughter-in-law. We had made arrangements for a drive about the environs of Lon- don, and consequently declined, through the same [ 86 ] HAMPSTEAD HEATH source, Mrs. Maryatt's invitation. The repose, and quiet of the country was tranquillizing, and agree- able, after the constant whirl in which we had lived for the last six weeks. We returned to town over Hampstead Heath, where we saw children of vari- ous ages, riding donkeys, which they seemed greatly to enjoy. Other of these animals were saddled ready for immediate use. At half past six we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Senior ; having refused several other invitations in order to fulfil this engagement, of long standing. It proved a very agreeable dinner ; Lord Glenelg i handed me in. The newspapers say he is "always asleep," but I should do him injustice if I did not say, that I found him intelligent, and really wide atcake, in fact, he gave me much useful informa- tion, for which I am sincerely, his Lordship's debtor. Mr. and Mrs. Wraix-Currie, were present, and also Mr.2 and Mrs. Otway-Cave,^ the last, is a daughter of Sir Francis Burdett, and sister to Miss Angela Coutts. The Hon. Robert Otway-Cave is a member of Par- liament for Tipperary. A large party assembled in the evening ; among them was the Earl of Lovelace, 1 Charles Grant, Baron Glenelg, 1778-1866 ; statesnian. ^ Hon. Robert Otway-Cave ; Member of Parliament ; died, 1844. * Sophia Burdett, daughter of Sir Francis ; married, 1833, Robert Otway-Cave ; died, 1849. [ 87 ] D]ANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND whose wife (formerly Ada Byron), had that morn- ing given birth to her second son, Mrs. Austin and Daughter, and Sir WilHam Gordon, the Rev'd. Mr. Milman and his pretty wife, and her Sister, Mr. Phillips, a barrister, known to Mr. Webster in Amer- ica, and quantities of other people, to whom we are now, no longer strangers, I trust. We left with re- gret, to visit the "Dowager Countess of Cork and Orrery."! She is ninety-six years old, and Sister to General Monckton^ who fell at Quebec ; Mr. Milnes calls her "his historic Aunt." The house was spa- cious, and handsome, but I was unprepared for the appearance of the venerable person to whom we were about to be presented. Passing through two apart- ments, and entering the third, there sat, upon a sofa, a very little old lady, about the size of a child of seven years, dressed in a white sUk gown, a blonde scarf, and a fanciful white muslin bonnet, with a narrow fall of lace, in front. Her teeth are long since gone, and she articulates with difficulty. Mr. Milnes presented us each, as she rose to receive us, and after 1 Mary Monckton, 1746-1840; daughter of Jotn, 1st Viscount Qalway ; married, 1786, Edmund Boyle, 7th Earl of Cork and Orr- ery. She became known as a " blue-stocking." ^ Robert Monckton, 1726-82; lieutenant-general; was wounded at Quebec, 1759, not killed. C 88 ] AN AGED HOSTESS we had made our salutations, she took the arm of Mr. Webster, and also that of a lady near, and fol- lowed by her page-in-waiting, she led the way to her own refreshment table, in a pretty conservatory, cov- ered with grape vines. It was indeed a novelty, to us, the sight of one of that advanced age, doing the honours of her house to a hundred visitors, and in- deed Lady Cork can be regarded in no other light, but as a very remarkable specimen of a by-gone age. July 4. A year ago to-day, I was travelling, dur- ing intense heat, to the Sulphur Springs in Vir- ginia. Lieutenant Colonel Head came to see us. He was a fellow passenger on board our ship. AVe have refused to dine with Miss Coutts, and Lord Brougham, as Mr. and Mrs. Webster were engaged to dine with " his Royal Highness, the Duke of Sus- sex," at Kensington Palace, having been engaged previous to this, to Lord and Lady Powerscourt,^ but all other engagements must yield to those of royalty, and a note of excuse has been sent to Lady Powerscourt, accordingly. Julia took an early ride 1 Elizabeth Prances Charlotte Jooelyn, daughter of Bobert, 2d Earl of Roden; married, 1836, Richard Wingfield, 6th Viseonat Powerscourt. [ 89 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND with Mr. Senior, Stultz having sent her riding-habit in good season. At two o'clock accompanied by Mr. Kenyon, and his brother-in-law, Mr. Curterss, we went to visit some of the " Clubhouses," and at the door of the " Athenaeum " we were joined by Colonel Head; we went also to the "United Service clubhouse " and to the " Travellers." They are charming, comfortable establishments, with fine li- braries, drawing, and dining-rooms. The natural tendency of all, must be to make many English bachelors, I should think. After this, we made a visit to the " British Institution " and enjoyed some good old paintings. We finished the morning at an exhibition of watercoloured paintings thought to be very fine. Mrs. Bates' concert was quite equal, if not superior, to any music I have yet heard in Lon- don. Beside the usual Italian troupe, we had " Ivan- ho£f " 1 who is not on the stage this season, Made- moiselle Meerty, a German singer of great sweet- ness, and Mrs. Dulcken,2 pianist to her Majesty, who played a fantasia, with great power, and execu- tion. I undertook to chat a little, with Persiani; she speaks no English, and I got on as well as I 1 Nicholas IvanhofE, 1809-80 ; Busaian Tocalist. " Louisa Dulcken (n^e David), 1811-50; German pianist. C 90 ] GRISI'S BEAUTY could, in French; she is positively ugly off the stage, but her manners are soft, and agreeable. " Grisi " is thought so beautiful, but I only think her rather pretty, and that is all. I said to some one near me : " Grisi is pretty, do you not think so?" "No," said the lady, "I do not think her pretty, but very beautiful" She has certainly, a Juno-like neck, and finely shaped shoulders, but, her eyes are Chinesely small, and her black hair coarse, although this and her stout figure, are not percepti- ble on the stage. July 5. The Great Western sails to-morrow, and bears our long letters, full of hope, and love to our dear ones at home. Went to the " Soho Bazaar " and to the " Pantheon," and on our return, found that Mrs. Mansfield, Mrs. Amelia Opie, Miss Rog- ers, Lady Parke, and Miss Parke, Lady Harriet Baring i of Great Stanhope Street, Lady Anne Beckett, Sir James 2 and Lady Clark, the Marquis of Normanby, Mr. and Mrs. J. Abel Smith,^ and ^ Harriet Mary Montagn, daughter of George John, 6th Earl of Sandwich ; married, 1823, William Bingham Baring, 2d Baron Aahburton ; of literary tastes ; died, 1857. ^ Sir James Clark, 1788-1870 ; physician ; unpopular in conse- quence of his connection with the case of Lady Flora Hastings. ' John Abel Smith, 1801-71 ; banker and politician ; Member of Parliament for Chichester, 1831-59. [ 91 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Miss Grey, had all left their cards at our door. Dined with Mr. Justice, or Baron Vaughan and his present wife. Lady St. John.i Baron Vaughan is a friend and correspondent of my Uncle, Justice Story ; I bore a letter of introduction from him, which I had already presented. He is a brother of Sir Charles Vaughan, former minister at Washington, and of Sir Henry Halford,^ the celebrated physician of George IV, both of whom were at the table. Judge Vaughan treated me with distinguished kindness, and atten- tion, and placed me by his side, at dinner. He spoke frequently of " Mr. Justice Story," and asked me many questions about him; enquired particu- larly his address in America, &c., and said he had a book, he was anxious to send him, but had been doubtful how to direct &c. He said also, that Judge Story's " Commentaries " had a very high reputa^ tion with all the learned of the law in England, and that during that morning, in court, reference had been made, three different times to the " Hon. Mr. ^ Loiiisa Rouse-Broughton, daughter of Sir Charles William, Baronet; married, 1807, St. Andrew St. John, 14th Baron St. John; he died in 1817, and she married, secondly ,^1823, Sir John Vaughan, Baron Vaughan. She died in 1860. ^ Sir Henry Halford, 1st Baronet, 1766-1844 ; physician. Ho changed his name from Vaughan to Halford in 1809. [ 92 ] DINNER WITH JUDGE VAUGHAN Justice's book." Lady Lyndhurst, and her step- daughter Miss Copley, Serjeant Talfourd,i the au- thor of " Ion," and Lord Denman, a distinguished lawyer, and British Peer, were also guests, and like- wise Miss Vaughan, the daughter of our host. Lord Denman is a courtly, elegant gentleman, and a most favorable specimen of a well-bred English noble- man, as well as a handsome man. July 6. Last evening, we heard the melancholy announcement, of the death of poor Lady Flora Hastings, and that Lord Melbourne was anxious the Queen should go to Windsor, for a few days, but that her Majesty was unwilling to go. For more than a fortnight we had been under an engagement, to dine with Mr. Alexander, Carlton Terrace. We have since received a note announcing the dangerous illness of a Daughter, and begging to be excused from receiving us. Extremely regretting the cause, we were not sorry to enjoy a quiet dinner at our lodgings, and Mr. Webster went to dine with Sir Charles Vaughan. At 3 o'clock, we went by invitation from Mr. Stuarts Wortley, and Lady Georgiana, to see the practice among the expectant Knights, for the 1 Sir Thomas Noon .Talfourd, 1795-1854; judge and author; serjeant-at-law, 1839. [ 93 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Earl of Eglinton's i grand tournament, in Scotland next month. It is quite a fashionable resort, and al- though we thought, we had met all the world, wend- ing their way to another " Horticultural fete " at Chiswick, yet as seems ever the case in London, when we got to [the tilting ground, from the crowd of carriages, all the world seemed to be there, too. "We had been to Kensington Palace, to leave cards for the royal Duke, and Lady Cecilia, and found also Hyde Park, with its usual pageant of brilliant equipages, as we drove around it, on our way. The Knights, at " St. John's Wood," were par- tially clad in armour, and as they rushed forward on their horses, the Heralds announced their appear- ance, with a flourish of trumpets. The attendants were likewise in armour, with a tall feather in their helmets. Several accidents having of late oc- curred, the combattants now attack a figure dressed, in armour, with joints and hinges. This figure moves on a sort of railway, and as each Knight ap- pears wielding his long lance, the figure is advanced from the opposite side. They overturn this figure, or not, as the case may be, after which, the attend- 1 Archibald William Montgomerie, 13th Earl of Eglinton, 1812- 61. [ 94 ] PRAC.TICE FOR A TOURNAMENT ants replace it, for the next Knight to try his skill. Another wooden figure is also placed outside the circle, upon which these horsemen practice. An- other feat, is to catch the orange, upon the point of their lances, or to strike it, as it hangs suspended, on the corresponding side of the circle, with the wooden figure. When the orange was displaced, the pages, in the fantastic dress of the olden time, picked it up, and replaced it. Lady Seymour is to be " Queen of Love and Beauty," at the tournament, and this high compliment to her preemruent beauty seems not misplaced. The charm of her expression, increases on a more frequent view, and I now begin to feel that I have seen no woman in England to compare vdth Lady Seymour's attractive loveliness. We lingered until a late hour, and after a more rapid dinner, than usual, we dressed for the Italian Opera, to which we accompanied Mr. Corbin, a Vir- giuian gentleman, resident in Paris, and were soon listening with entranced ears, to the music of " L' Ele- sire d' Amore," and Persiani's thrilling tones. We had also a portion of "Anna Bolena," and Tag- lioni, in the ballet. 1 never enjoyed music more. Lady Blessington i was in her box as usual of a 1 Marguerite Power, 1789-1849; authoress; daughter of Ed- [ 95 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Saturday evening, accompanied by the Count d'Or- say,i and E. L. Bulwer.2 This celebrated novelist, is far from being a handsome man, or very attractive in personal appearance. He is tall, with light hair, and whiskers, and forms a contrast to Count d'Or- say, who is considered the "glass of fashion, and the mould of form," but although unquestionably, a very handsome man, with fine white teeth, and a re- markable complexion, he has not, the sort of beauty, most ' covetahle ' for a man (in my estimation). Lady Blessington is a very stout, very red-faced woman, neither remarkably young, nor handsome, and widely different from the portrait drawn by WiUis, or the beautiful engraving in one of the late annuals. Sunday, July 7. Mr. Webster, Julia, and Mrs. Webster attended service in Westminster Abbey, and enjoyed a most excellent discourse from the Rev'd. H. H. Milman, whom we both know, and re- spect, so highly. Suffering from indisposition, I, myself, lost the opportunity and privilege of witness- mimd; married, 1818, Charles John Gardiner, 1st Earl of Bless- ington. ^ Alfred Guillanme Gabriel, Comte d'Orsay, 1801-52 ; artist. ^ Edward George Earle Lytton Bulwer-Lytton, 1st Baron Lytton, 1803-73 ; novelist. [ 96 ] SYDNEY SMITH AT ST. PAUL'S ing this glorious cathedral service, but Mr. Webster, represents it as performed iu a similar manner to that of the Royal Chapel. In the afternoon however, I was able to attend at " St. Paul's Cathedral," by the invitation of one of its canons, the Rev'd. Sydney Smith, who told us the night before, " if we woidd risk a cold church, and the infliction of a tedious sermon, that he would find us comfortable seats." Mr. Smith's sermon upon toleration was the most sensible discourse I have yet listened to, in England, and I confess I was agreeably disap- pointed, in hearing the subject discussed there, so liberally and fairly. Mr. Watson, i Episcopalian clergyman from Trinity Church, in Boston, was present ; he sat directly beneath us, in a separate pew from the ladies, according to the established custom, with Mr. Webster on his right, while we were in the staU or pew above, and locked in there by the warden, to prevent the intrusion of visitors; it was Mr. Smith's own pew, but to a nervous tem- perament, this locking up, was not agreeable. The service was performed in the choir, or church, which is but a small part of the Cathedral; but on the * ReT. John L. Watson, assistant minister of Trinity Church, Boston, 1836^6. [ 97 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND conclusion of the service, Mr. Smith joined us, and accompanied by him, we went over the whole edi- fice, while -he explained several interesting objects, and the meaning of many of the ancient monuments. Although of less antiquity than those of Westmin- ster Abbey, still some of them are very beautiful and elaborate. I was more struck than ever, with the vastness of St. Paul's; the echoes of the "peal- ing organ," and aU the solemn associations, con- nected with the service, heard in such a spot, pro- duced an effect upon me, which I cannot easily forget. Mrs. Bates had asked us to dinner, but we begged to be excused. Mr. Webster went to dine with Lord and Lady Lyndhurst, and we enjoyed a quiet evening in Hanover Square. Monday, July 8. At half past ten, we breakfasted with Miss Rogers, Hanover Terrace. She has a sepa- rate house from that of her Brother, and is one among the many instances, of single ladies, of " a certain age," at the head of charming establishments, receiv- ing visitors, commanding the best society, and the entire respect of all. Miss Rogers, although passed the prime of life, is full of intelligence; she lives upon the income of an independent fortune, left her by a deceased Brother ; her house is filled with valu- C 98 ] DANIEL, O'CONNELl, able paintings, and we gi-eatly enjoyed our social breakfast. '• Macaulay," " Sydney Smith," and two ladies, whose names have escaped me, were our guests. Mr. Webster dined with Mr. Charles Buller,i and, in the evening, Mrs. Webster, Julia, and myself, went to a party, at the same house. Mr. Charles Buller, is a radical in politics, and was Secretary to Lord Durham, when in Canada. He is member for " Liskeard." Here we were aU introduced to the great repealer, and agitator, Daniel O'ConneU 2 and notwithstanding my prejudices, and his abuse of our own country, I could not but be favorably impressed with his intelligence and cleverness. He has an im- mensely stout, and tall figure, small eyes, a round face and wears a fuU curled, dark brown wig. He talked of Ireland, its productions, and the distinc- tive differences between some of the trees of that country, and those of America, as they were each spoken of. Here was also Miss Catherine Sedgwick,^ our American authoress, with her two nieces ; they leave England, in a few days for the Continent, the 1 Charles Boiler, 1806-48 ; Liberal politician ; Member of Par- liament for Liskeard, 1832—18. 2 Daniel O'ConneU, 1775-1847 ; Irish politician ; called the " Liberator." 8 Catherine Maria Sedg-wick, 1789-1867 ; authoress. [ 99 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND climate here uot agreeing with the health of her inva- lid brother. They go to some German Spas I believe. She told me, that she came to Mrs. Buller's, (Charles Buller lives with his parents, and is unmarried), in spite of other engagements, chiefly to see O'ConneU, and to compare the " two Daniels " together, and I myself acknowledged that it was our chief attrac- tion there, as we were previously engaged to Lady Brougham's, for this evening. At a later hour, we proceeded to Grafton Street, and found a large party of " fashionables," and agreeable people. Lord Brougham has but one child, and she is one of the most distressing, pitiable objects, possible. Owing to some organic disease of the heart, the circulation is impeded, and the whole face, and even the lips of the poor unfortunate girl are so deep a purple, that she resembles a mulatto, rather than a white person. Mr. Milnes told me, that she possessed an uncommon de- gree of cleverness, was very cultivated, and absolutely adored by her Father; that he consulted her on all occasions, and that at the time of his appointment as Vice-Chancellor in 1830, he told her twenty-four hours before any other human being, and she being herself conservative, advised him not to accept the office. Lady Georgiana Fane was present. Lady Seymour, [ 100 ] BREAKFAST WITH LiOCKHART Lord 1 and Lady Mahon,^ and many other familiar faces, too numerous to mention. Lady Brougham was seated nearly all the evening, being herself in a pre- carious state of health, and her unfortunate daughter confined herself to a corner of the room, near to her Mother. I hardly knew for which, I felt the most commiseration, the child, or the parents. Lady Brougham is a very plain woman ; the daughter named " Eleanor Louisa " is about seventeen, or eighteen years old, but hopelessly ill, I fear, and probably doomed to a sudden, and early death. I cannot express how the sight of her, has shocked, and distressed my heart. Wednesday, July 10. Had a delightful breakfast with Lockhart, in " Sussex Place, Regent's Park." We were received in the gardens, which are in com- mon to all the occupants of Sussex Terrace, where we walked, with the various guests, until breakfast was announced. It is customary for ladies to wear their hats, on these occasions, and generally, a silk, cotlanli SATUEDAY, August 24. Lanark, Lanarkshire. Leaving Lockerbie at 7 o'clock this morning we drove to Beattock bridge, a distance of fourteen miles, to breakfast. The road was good, but with uninterest- ing scenery composed of barren hills, and moors, the rain continuing to pour most merrily. Crawford our next post was 16 miles, and fifteen more brought us to this place just at noon, with a promise of sunshine, and fairer weather. Mr. Lockhart resides six miles from this place, and according to the promise made in London, we have apprised him, through a mes- senger, of our arrival at Lanark. Li consequence of the rain, we were prevented seeing the " Falls of the Clyde," on our last post to this place, and we shall therefore postpone this pleasure, untU Monday morning. Sunday, August 25. Melton Lockhart. As we were dining yesterday at Lanark, shortly after de- spatching our messenger, Mr. Lockhart appeared. He insisted on our going at once to his Brother's [ 237 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND house, with whom he resides, six mUes from where we were, and hoped we would consider our dinner a mere lunch, and would do himself and Brother the favor of dining with them at 7 o'clock at " Melton Lockhart." He urged this in the strongest manner, declared our " rooms were all in readiness," and in short, extracted a promise before he left, that we would immediately follow him to his Brother's house. So cordial and tempting a proposal, we could no longer refuse, although we had not thought of pay- ing this visit until to-morrow at soonest ; we were, therefore, in the course of an hour, driving along the banks of the Clyde, toward our destination. We were detained for twenty minutes, by again, break- ing our trace, but a new one was procured and we arrived in good season, without further accident. We had a charming dinner, in excellent taste, with jellies, and a dessert of fine fruit. Mr. Lockhart's dining-room is a lofty, beautiful apartment panelled with oak ; above, and around, is a gallery ; the front, of very beautiful oak carving, in which are bookcases, and books. This tasteful gallery communicates by two doors above, with Mr. L's private apartments. The Brother, and owner of this establishment is Wil- liam Lockhart, a bachelor; his name, was the one [ 238 ] MELTON LOCKHART we read at Sliakspeare's birthplace, above that of Scott; he told us, that the author of "Waverly" had placed his name there unknown to him at the time, although he accompanied him on the visit to Avon. Some friend discovered, and told him of it, some days afterward. The house is at present under- going repairs, and improvements, but it is quite a handsome building, with the family crest, " a heart with a padlock," introduced into all the ornamental part. The stucco work of the hall is now being gilded, and the ceiling of a large and new drawing- room. The son, and daughter of Mr. John G. Lock- hart, and the grandchildren of Scott, are absent on a visit to some friends in Scotland ; we therefore lost the pleasure of seeing them. Nothing can exceed the courtesy, and hospitality of these two gentlemen. We have spent a portion of the day in visiting the celebrated " Falls of the Clyde," they consist of three separate ones, one of which is a complete " Niagara " in miniature. They also bear some resemblance to " Trenton." They are on the estate of Lady Mary Ross. A pretty summer-house, stands on a hiU, above one of the falls ; in this building are some mirrors so contrived, that on seating oneself in a certain cor- ner, a beautiful panorama of the falls is reflected [ 239 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND with great distinctness, and beauty. Mr. Lockhart conducted us to all the fine points, and through every interesting spot ; in accomplishing this, we walked many miles, and on reaching Melton again, were much fatigued. According to an ancient Scotch cus- tom, we were offered " Mountain dew " from out of a " quaigh " or drinking cup, a triangular vessel of wood lined with silver, holding about a half a wine- glass, when fuU. But one was placed on the table, out of which, each was expected to drink, taking the two sides, one in each hand, and thus raising it to the lips. This ceremony we merrily performed, and touched the " quaigh " to our lips. Mr. William Lockhart, is intelligent, and unpretending ; his bro- ther, handsome, " wise, and witty," devoted in his kind attentions, and they both evince the strongest desire, to make us happy, and at home. August 26. Glasgow. We left "Melton Lock- hart " this morning, after a visit of two delightful days. We stopped at Hamilton, a distance of eight miles, to visit the palace of the " Duke of Hamil- ton." Approaching through the parks, the house re- minds me in style of the President's at Washington, although this palace, is three times as large. At pres- ent it is undergoing repairs, and improvements. It [ 240 ] THE GALLERY AT HAMILTON abounds in exquisite, and valuable vases, and marble tables, of " malachite " which are really more precious than gold. The malachite is a brilliant green marble, beautifully veined, of which, but small pieces, are said to be, now obtainable, and those, at high prices. Here was a whole slab ! Some of these tables, are said to be estimated at j£4000. The picture gallery is 120 feet long, and 20 feet high, the walls of dark, carved, antique oak ; the ceiling is of gilt, and stucco work, in very gorgeous style, but has a cumbrous, top-heavy effect, like the otherwise, splendid corridor, at Windsor Castle. This gallery contains a cele- brated picture of Rubens, "Daniel in the Lions' den," " Moses striking the rock," by Tintoretto, the " Burial of our Saviour " by Poussin, and " Ecce homo " by Correggio, and a portrait of Lord Den- bigh by Van Dyck ; these all attracted my attention. I also remember a " Stag hunt " by Snyders, and a "Laughing boy," by Leonardo da Vinci, as very striking paintings. The " Tribune," a room yet un- finished, promises to be very beautiful ; it has a gal- lery around it, made of stone, and is a very large apartment. At the head of the picture gallery is the present Duke's ambassadorial throne, brought from St. Petersburg. I was much struck with a beautiful [ 241 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND cabinet, of mosaic, and precious stones ; it must have cost an immense sum. The Gobelin was here, as fresh and beautiful, as at Blenheim, or Windsor. The li- brary was also a fine room, and so was the dining- room, which was 71 feet by 30, and a " State bed- room," containing a bed, in which Mary Queen of Scots had once slept. In another room, was a carved ebony cradle, that had rocked to sleep the infant Queen Elizabeth, and had been used in her royal nursery. The ceilings of the Duchess' own rooms were very beautifully, and emblematically gilded, and the walls, richly tapestried in blue. The recesses of the deep-set windows, in the adjoining room, were filled with low bookcases and books, an invention that much pleased me. In the new part, the artists were putting in, the mosaic marble floor, of an en- trance hall, and gilding, and frescoing the ceilings, and walls ; some of it in too " prononce " style to be generally approved. This is called a palace because it is built on the site of another palace belonging to royalty. The Marquis of Douglas, the son, and heir of this splendid palace and estates, I have previously named. " Dame Rumour " has already made him the husband elect, of her Majesty, but since the propagation of [ 242 ] GLASGOW this report, the Queen has not been disposed, as for- merly, to give him her hand, in the dance ; nothing has recently transpired, to confirm, in any way, this report. Lord Douglas, I have heard called, " the hand- somest man in England." The Duke,i his Father, married a daughter of Mr. Beckford 2 of Fonthill Abbey, Wiltshire. We left Hamilton at two o'clock, and arrived, in the midst of a pouring rain, at Glas- gow ; immediately on our arrival, we had the satis- faction, and pleasure of meeting Mr. Appleton and Edward Webster, who came to us by appointment. Here we are to pass the night, and I must leave ' journalizing,' for the present, for the more agreeable occupation of preparing letters to go to America, by the British Queen, that sails on the 1st of Sep- tember. Mr. Webster has just shown me the following, given to him by Lord Lonsdale while at Lowther; it is written from memory, by the Earl himself. He related to Mr. Webster, that when he was a student at the University of Cambridge, he happened to see, 1 Alexander Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton, 1767-1852. 2 Susan Euphemia Beckford, daughter of William ; married, 1810, Alexander Hamilton, 10th Duke of Hamilton. [ 243 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND on some window, in, or near the town of Cambridge, the following lines scratched on a pane of glass: " Hail happy England, freedom's best retreat Great is thy wealth, thy power, thy glory, great ; But wealth and power have no immortal day, And only all things hasten to decay. But when that Time shall come, the lot of all. When England's glory, wealth, and power shall fall, In other worlds another Briton see, And what thou art, America shall be I " As the Earl of Lonsdale is now in his 82d year, it is doubtless more than sixty years since he saw these lines. He told Mr. Webster that the prophecy made so great an impression upon him, that through the long lapse of years, he never forgot the words. Glasgow is a place of considerable importance, and second only to London in size and population. We are so near the scene of the approaching tournar ment, and hear so much at this place of Lord Eglin- ton's splendid preparations, that we are half tempted, notwithstanding our previous determination, to change our minds, and witness the pageant, without attend- ing the banquet, and baU, for which two last we are unprovided with fancy dresses. August 27. Turf Inn, Kilmarnock, Ayrshire. This place is 17 miles from Glasgow and nine miles [ 244 ] KILMARNOCK from Eglinton ; the to^vn of " Ayr " is but three miles, distant ; it is interesting from being connected with the name of Bums ; the poet is said to have been born about a mile, and a half from the town. This is the scene of " Tam o' Shanter," and the ruins of "Alloway Kirk" and the " Auld Brig" are both still in existence, but the latter is deserted, and the former, a roofless ruin. It is said that the house where the poet first saw light, is now a public house, but the room, where he was born, is still shown to travellers. About four miles in another direction, from Kilmarnock, and a half a mile, from the village of " Galston " is Loudoun Castle, the seat of the Marchioness of Hastings, and the burial place of poor Lady Flora. AU the inns, on the way to this place were crowded with vehicles, waiting for post- horses to bring them to the vicinity of Eglinton. We learn that every Inn, lodging house, &c., is secured at immensely high prices, and all things are in a state of tumult, and excitement, in consequence of the an- ticipated scenes, of the next three days. We have, contrary to our expectations, comfortable apartments here, and in the meantime, we await the return of "Holton," who has gone to Eglinton Castle, with a note, to the Stepfather (Sir Charles Lamb), to learn [ 245 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND the order of the day, for to-morrow, and to ask if, notwithstanding our previous refusal, it will be allow- able for us to appear in the "grand stand" without fancy dresses, to-morrow, as we have been urged by others to do. We have therefore, thought it might be admissible to appear as spectators, relinquishing at once, all idea of the subsequent banquet and ball. Evening, 8 o'clock. Holton has just returned with a most kind and obliging reply from Sir Charles, urging Mr. Webster in the strongest manner, to re- main ; assuring him that, as " strangers," we shaU be admitted in " any dresses we have chosen to wear," and that he hopes " to persuade us all to remain to the Banquet and Ball, and will have the pleasure of providing rooms, where we may change our dresses for the purpose." After this, we no longer hesitate, and to-morrow morning we shall hope to be among the multitude, and partaking the pleasure and ex- citement of this long talked of tournament. Holton represents the excitement about Eglinton as intense, and the preparations for the tournament, &c., on the most splendid, and extensive scale. August 29. Glasgow. We left Kilmarnock at 11 o'clock yesterday morning, and passing through the village of " Irvine," were soon driving through the [ 246 ] ARRIVAL, AT EGLINTON beautiful parks of Eglinton, and in view of the cas- tle itself. The lawn presented a most gay scene, i Vehicles of all descriptions with their richly dressed inmates were driving about, and the numberless tents of the various Archer clubs covered the lawn in all directions; they were variously and emblematically ornamented, and the lady archers themselves, dressed in Lincoln green, with long feathers in their caps, and their bows in hand, were promenading, appear- ing and disappearing, beneath their showy pavilions, adding greatly, to the brilliancy of the whole scene. Our object in driving first, to the castle, was to ful- fil the particular request of Sir Charles, by sending to him our card of invitation, that the names of Mr. Appleton and Edward, might be added, in order to prevent all difficulties of admission, at the tilting ground. WhUe we were waiting, Mr. Richard Milnes appeared in a Highland costume, and Mr. Willis also accosted us, and Mr. Gibson, our Scotch friend, and fellow passenger. Through him, we discovered that our ticket was a particularly flattering one, those generally issued, being for the " Tournament," or " Tournament and Ball " and few for the " Banquet " 1 See Endymion, by Disraeli, chapters lix and LX. There is an account of this toomament by John Richardson. [ 247 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND also. A mile distant from the castle, was the spot designated ; there we took our places in the grand stand, or gallery, which was in Gothic style, hand- somely gilt ; in the centre was the throne for the " Queen of Love and Beauty," curtained in blue, and gold. This stand, was intended to hold 800 spectators. It was quite fiUed. On each side were those of smaller dimensions, without any covering or ornament, where persons were admitted gratis, through tickets. These two stands are said to have contained 1600 people, and the whole number of spectators is estimated at 10,000. The seats on which we sat, were covered with red, and protected behind with ancient tapestry. The tilting ground, or " List " comprised a space of about 650 feet in length, and 250 in breadth. On each side of ^feiis arena, were the tents for the different Knights, and their Es- quires, each tent being designated by stripes of dif- ferent colours from the others. The barrier, across which the Knights were to encounter, was in the centre of this space ; it was said to have been 110 yards in length, and about 4 feet in height. The morning was unpromising when we left Kilmarnock, and it " sprinkled " even wlule we were in front of the Castle, but it ceased, soon after, although the aspect [ 248 3 THE EGIilNTON TOURNAMENT of the Heavens continued threatening, until just as the procession was about leaving the Castle. At that critical moment, all doubts were dissolved, in a vio- lent shower of rain. In the hope of a cessation, the departure of the procession was postponed, for about 30 minutes, when seeing no prospect of a change, it was decided that the procession must proceed ; the immense nvunber of houseless spectators, from long distances, making a postponement to the following day, impracticable. With the exception of the la- dies, and the pages, this gorgeous and beautiful page- ant, disregarding the copious, and uninterrupted rain, proceeded onward, along the paths selected, a mile in extent, and designated by previous arrangement, and announcement. Spectators, completely lined the whole way ; a large portion of them were in the Highland costume, and the remainder sporting at least, a sprig of heather ; they had been already standing for hours, to catch a glimpse of the passing pageant. Several of the Knights, being Scotch noble- men, were followed by their retainers, in the par- ticular costume of their clan. The " tail " of Lord Grlenlyon i amounted to 40 or 50 men, and that of the 1 George Ang^tns Frederick John Murray, 2d Lord Qleulyon, 1814^64 ; Buceeeded his uncle as 6th Duke of Atholl, 1846. [ 249 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Duke of Montrose ' comprised as great a number, marcMng, in their " kilts, and plaids," to the sound of the " pibroch " or " screeching bag-pipe." The musicians of the 78th Highlanders, were all dressed by Lord Eglinton, in plaids, and bonnets, and were stationed directly in front, below the throne of the " Queen of Beauty." Uniforms, and Highland cos- tumes prevailed among the gentlemen universally, and the largest portion by far, of the ladies, in the stand (where we were), wore costly, and splendid fancy costumes, adhering closely to those worn in the 15th century, in far more becoming taste, than the costume of the present age. The Duchess of Montrose,^ a very lovely woman, was very superbly dressed, with a cap of golden net, and precious stones fitting tight to the head, the hair parted behind, and the whole brought in front, making two heavy braids around the face, the style often seen in pictures, but faithfully, and becomingly imitated. Lady Seymour, the " Queen," wore a similar headdress, with a long crimson velvet train, trimmed with ermine, the under dress of blue velvet richly embroidered up the front * James Graham, 4tli Duks of Montrose, 1799-1874 ; statesman. ^ Caroline Agues Horsley-Beresford, daughter of the Reverend John, 3d Baron Decies ; married, 1836, James Graham, 4th Duke of Montrose. [ 250 ] THE EGLINTON TOURNAMENT in gold. I shall not attempt a description of the pageant itself, but I have preserved a book, which was sold about the premises, containing the order of procession, name of each Knight, his colours, dress, and the names and costumes of the Esquires. Like- wise those of the Archers, who contributed their part, toward the splendor of the scene. Lady Sey- mour, with the ladies of her court, the four pages (who were exquisitely dressed, and were sons of noblemen of rank), were all driven down in closed chariots to the stand, while the beautiful white pal- frey, intended for the Queen of Beauty, was led along, by two grooms, the rain, soon annihilating the stately ostrich feathers that were waving on his head, and tarnishing, and disfiguring the splendid caparisons, that had cost so much labour and expense to prepare for the occasion, and the blue velvet cloth which covered the animal, soon by the wet, and rain, became so heavy, that its golden tassels trailed on the ground ! All this was very sad to see, and yet with this g^eat impediment of the weather, the scene was novel, and brilliant. The Earl of Eglinton, as " Lord of the Tournament " was greeted on his ap- pearance with enthusiastic shouts. He wore a mag- nificent armour of burnished gold, the cost of which [ 251 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND is said to have been 10,000 dollars ; his horse was also splendidly caparisoned, and partially protected by armour of the same material, which was first made of steel, and then richly, and brilliantly gilded. When armed for the encounter, he made a most conspicuous appearance, and throughout the whole day, he won our respect and admiration, for the grace, and composure, with which he met, all the vexations, and trials of the time. His stepfather. Sir Charles Lamb, was the " Knight of the White Eose" which emblem, was emblazoned about his person, and cap; his dress was quite a contrast to Lord Eglinton's, although perhaps as beautiful. The dress itself was blue velvet embroidered in gold. The reins, and saddle-cloth of blue, with the coat-of-arms, and crest, richly embroidered upon it. Lady Montgom- erie,i the Mother of Lord Eglinton, and wife to Sir Charles Lamb, was driven to the stand with the Marchioness of Londonderry (whose diamonds, I have described, previously, at a London ball). In their train came also, the Countess of Hopetoun,^ ' Mary Montgomerie, daughter of Archibald, 11th Earl of Eglinton, and widow of Archibald Montgomerie, Lord Montgomerie ; married, secondly, 1815, Sir Charles Montolieu Lamb, 2d Baronet ; died, 1848. 2 Louisa Macdonald, 1802-54, daughter of Godfrey, 3d Baiou Macdouald ; married, 1826, John Hope, 5th Earl of Hopetoun. [ 252 ] THE EGIilNTON TOURNAMENT and her sister Miss Macdonald, said to be the " hand- somest woman in Scotland," and also Lord Eglin- ton's sister ; all these ladies were gorgeously, and magnificently attired, in the same style of costume, as that, worn at the last " tourney," in England ; their dresses were trimmed with sables, and ermines, and on their heads, were gold coronets, and precious stones, and velvet caps embroidered very richly, in gold, or silver, or precious stones. The raia however, continued without abatement, and it was not long before the feathers, and rich equipments of the Knights, their Esquires, and pursuivants, showed but too plainly, that their beauty was truly but evanescent, and fast disappearing. All hearts were filled with sadness and sorrow, for the actors had hardly appeared, and were partially seen, before the rain despoiled them of one half their beauty. The injury however, was not confined to them alone, for the spectators, more particularly those in the open stands, and on the grounds (richly dressed, and un- prepared for this reverse in the weather), were thor- oughly drenched and iedraggled. Indeed, the whole population, suffered more or less from the violence of the rain. For myself, I was placed directly behind a Highlander, desperately in love, apparently, with [ 263 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND a pretty girl by Ms side, and by whom he was en- tirely engrossed. The searching rain had found its way, in certain places, through the slight roof above, and happened to pour itself into the saucer top of his concave hat, leaving large drops, upon the points of the numerous black feathers, that ornamented its top, and side. To his ' ladye love's ' often repeated, and anxious inquiries, as to the " prospect of a change of weather," he would as often, put back his head to raise his eyes to the Heavens, and the result was, that the whole contents, of the top, of the Highland cap, was liberally poured into my /ace, and down my neck, while his reply, was always, with a shake of the head, that sent also, every drop from his feath- ered plumes, additional : " I can't teU, but at pres- ent, it looks ' vry ' unsatisfactory." To me, this oft repeated manoeuvre, was particularly "unsatisfac- tory " as one may readily imagine, and although his Scotch accent, and entire unconsciousness of the " damp stranger " so near him, made me but laugh, yet the effects upon my toilette were vastly more enduring. But the greatest disappointment of all, is yet to be related. Adjoining the castle, covered with blue and white stripes, were two splendid pavilions, erected under one roof for the Banquet, [ 254 ] THE EGLiINTON TOURNAMENT and Ball-rooms. Both were to be lighted with im- mense candelabra, chandeliers, and wax lights. A saloon in the centre led, through a beautiful stair- case, lined with evergreens, and coloured lamps, to the castle itself ; this was also adorned with the ban- ners of the various Knights, &c. But all this prep- aration was in vain, at least, for that day. After a great deal of tilting, from all the Knights, and dis- plays of splendid horsemanship. Lord Eglinton ap- proached from the lists, to the front of the Grand Stand, and in a most graceful, and appropriate man- ner, announced, the dire intelligence, " that the un- expected and unwelcome rain, had inundated so completely, both the Banqueting and Ball-rooms, that in spite of the very best intentions, of giving his friends a good dinner, the violent storm, had frustrated all his plans " ! He also announced, that there " would be no tilting the next day, should the weather prove as intolerable as now." The " Lord of the Tournament " afterward came into the gaUery, and was introduced to Mr. Webster and party, and after expressing his regret at the misfortunes of the day, he said that " a few guests would dine with him in the castle, and that he should feel much gratified if we would all, join them." This hospitable invita- [ 255 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND tion Mr. Webster thought, with us, it was best to refuse, on account of our not having fancy dresses, or indeed any others, than the ones we wore. Added to these reasons, our drive for a bed at night, was one of nine miles, to Kihnarnock. Lord Eglinton also remarked that " he blamed himself severely, for not having guarded against the contingency of rain, by having the pavilions water-proof." I have since learned, that " Pratt " the mechanic, who superin- tended the arrangements for this whole affair, sud- denly vanished from Eglinton, fearing the weight of Lord Eglinton's displeasure, at his want of attention, in not securing him against, so unhappy an accident. Our enjoyments for the day, were greatly damped ; sorrow, and sympathy for Lord Eglinton, and his friends predominating. One who witnessed the scene, at the castle, told me, that Lady Montgomerie di- rectly on entering the house, after the close of this unpropitious day, threw herself into a seat, and burst into a passionate fit of weeping, not "for her own disappointment, but that her beloved son, should, after all the labours, and anticipations of so many months, be the victim of such mortifications, and distressing reverses." It proved fortunate for us, that we did not delay [ 256 ] A CROWDED INN any longer, our departure from Eglinton, for our stupid post-boys, lost their way, and carried us ten miles out of the direct road, delaying us more than an hour, beyond the proper time. A good dinner (previously ordered on our departure in the morning), to which we did ample justice, made amends for our fatigue, and while at our dessert, Mr. Richard Milnes was announced, accompanied by a friend, who had re- cently paid a visit to America. Like ourselves, Mr. Milnes being disappointed of his seat at the banquet, had returned to Kilmarnock, cold, wet, and hungry. August 30. Ardcheanochrochan,! head of Loch Katrine. After a most fatiguing day, we at last reached this place, and find its only Inn, entirely crowded, but one bed-room eight feet square, for our whole party ! This is one effect of the Tournament, which has driven all the world to one spot. We are quite in despair, for at present, there is no alternative but the parlour carpet, which is already occupied by an apparently newly married pair, who looked at first, a little surprised at our intrusion, but have since shown us many civilities. We sailed down the river Clyde this morning, in an iron steamboat, having left Glas- 1 Ardoheanochroolian ig at the outlet of Loch Katrine, not at the head of the lake. [ 257 ] DANI£Ii WEBSTER IN ENGLAND gow at 7 o'clock, and breakfasted at Dumbarton, where we had a good view of its castle ; it is situated on a high, forked rock, rising out of a plain, where a river joins the lake ; 560 feet high, it is a mile in cir- cumference, and has houses upon it, batteries, and a garrison. The fort is stiU kept up, in consequence of a stipulation, at the time of the Union of Scotland with England, that this fort should be one of the four, that were to continue in repair. These four forts being, " Edinburgh, Stirling, Blackness, and Dum- barton," formerly " Dunbreatan," signifying, the "JCastle of the Britons." In this last named Castle, William Wallace was once confined, and a room is still shown, called " Wallace's tower." The road through the village of Dumbarton, where lived the " Bonnie belle " along the banks of the river " Leven " was extremely pretty, and in the town of Renton, we noticed a monument to the memory of " Smollett " who was born in this neighborhood. A drive of five mUes more, and we alighted by the side of Loch Lomond, the largest sheet of water in Britain, and certainly the most beautiful ; it is 23 miles in length, and at the southern extremity, five miles in width. It is studded with numerous pretty islands, and its shores are covered with woods. The first island we [ 258 ] LOCH LOMOND passed, on our left, belongs to the Duke of Montrose, who owns a vast portion of the circumjacent country. It is called " Inchmurrin," and is now principally used by the Duke, for the keeping of deer. Bob Roy's rock, and cave were here pointed out, as among the objects of interest. During the greater part of the sail, the rain was pouring fast, but we had occa- sional glimpses of sunshine, enlivening the scenery of this sweet lake. We had the pleasure of meeting on board the boat. Sir William Newton the artist, and his daughter. They are on a tour through the Lakes, as far as "Blair Atholl." We landed at " In- versnaid " and entered a small, but clean, and humble cottage on the shore of the Lake. Near the cottage door, was a pretty cascade, falling into the Lake. Here we were detained for nearly three hours, await- ing the return of the ponies, to carry our party, through the valley, to Loch Katrine. We had for- tunately taken the precaution of sending the greater part of our luggage by the travelling carriage to Ed- inburgh, therefore one little donkey was able to bear the remainder. We had a merry ride of it, " O'er the muir amang the heather," but our ponies were obstinate, and weary, and the [ 259 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND gentlemen for want of a better conveyance, were obliged to walk. "We were not therefore sorry, when our five miles were accomplished, and the clear waters of Loch Katrine first met our sight. The whole pas- sage across was, " Empurpled with the heather's dye," the mountains were barren of everything else, save a few low shrubs. How naturally and beautifully does Scott say for Rob Roy when urged to flee : " But the heather that I have trod upon when living shall bloom over me when dead, my heart would sink, and my arm would shrink, were I to lose sight of my native hiUs, and the rocks, and cairns that you see around me." Over Loch Katrine we were rowed by four stout Highlanders, who pointed out a solitary house on the North shore, where Rob Roy was born. " Ben Venue " and " Ben An " rose high in the air, among a cluster of other mountains, their dark shadows finely reflected in the lake below. A singular rock, called a " Stag's head " from its resemblance to one, was a prominent object on the shore ; the antlers were very perfectly represented by two trees, one a birch, the other an oak. Their roots were attached to the rock, and they were growing by the nutriment, apparently, [ 260 ] LOCH KATKINE of the air alone, without any soil to feed upon. At the eastern extremity of the lake, was " Ellen's island," for the sight of which we were eagerly watching. The lodge built precisely, it is said, in accordance with Scott's description, by Lady Willoughby de Eresby i (whose husband owns the island, and much contigu- ous country), was accidentally hurned doivn, by a picnic party, who were smoking in the boiverf The " silver strand " probably derives its name from the whiteness of the sands of the beach. " On the top of Ben Venue," said the spokesman, among the oars- men, " just on that spot, on the left, is a cave, where Douglas concealed his Daughter from Roderick Dhu. On that rock, FitzJames stood, and wound his bugle." To him, the " Lady of the Lake " was all reality, and with the poem in one's mind, and the scene before one's eyes, this state of feeling became infectious. " So wondrous wild, the whole might seem The scenery of a Fairy's dream." Twilight was rapidly approaching, as we stepped from our boat, but the sight of the " Trossachs " made us forget all previous fatigue, and wild with delight, 1 Clementina Sarah Drammond, daughter of James, Ist Lord Perth ; married, 1807, Peter Robert Drummond-Burrell, 19th Baron Willonghby de Eresby. [ 261 ] DANIEL WEBSTKR IN ENGLAND at the beauty of the glen, and the bold pass, along the mountain, we proceeded on foot for a mile and a half, to this crowded inn, with the long Gaelic name, which I have written above (Ardcheanochrochan). By dint of bribes, and entreaties, Julia, and myself, are to be accommodated, with one single bed, in a miserable shed of an outhouse, used as a laundry- room, with no floor but the bare ground, and a bed in the same cheerless place for our maid. Mr. and Mrs. Webster are to have the bedroom, and the two other gentlemen, the parlour carpet I August 31. Stewart's Inn, Ardcheanochrochan. We are in full view of " Loch Achray," but the incessant rain prevents our seeing the beauties of the spot. I no longer wonder at the question of the stranger to the Scotch woman; "Pray," said he, " does it ahoays rain in these parts ? " " Nae," said the simple woman, " it sometimes snaws ! " Our ac- commodations are so wretched that we are anxious to proceed, and in accordance with this determination, Mr. and Mrs. Webster and Edward have already left here, in the only post-chaise, that could be had, in the shape of a vehicle, and are to send it back with fresh horses, for the rest of our party, from " Callander." [ 262 ] STIRLING Sunday, September 1. Stirling. At one o'clock, on the return of the post-chaise, we left for Callander, in a most violent rain storm. We crossed the " Brig o' Turk," and drove along the river Teith, passing Lanrick mead, and Lake Vennachar, and over the ford where Roderick Dhu is supposed to have led Fitzjames, previous to their contest ; we reached Cal- lander ten miles distant, where a good dinner, and comfortable apartments awaited us. In the after- noon, we proceeded to this place, passing near Doune castle, and over the bridge on the river Forth, having a good view of Stirling castle on our right, as we en- tered the town. It is said to be Edinburgh castle in miniature, and like Dumbarton, it is elevated high above the village, which it completely overlooks, as well as the surrounding country. It is of very re- mote antiquity, and from its esplanade, the view is superb. " Dunblane " where dwelt the "fair Jesse," and " AUan Water " are both visible, and the moun- tains of Ben Lomond, Ben Ledi, Ben Voirlich, Ben Venue, and the Grampian hills. We also saw the " Lady's rock " mentioned by Walter Scott, beneath which, the ancient tournaments were held, and where Douglas performed his wondrous feats. Our guide we accidentally learned, was a soldier in the 71st [ 263 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND regiment, and was stationed at Quebec, eight years ago, at the time of our visit there. He remarked, that " America was a fine country, and that he much pre- ferred it, to his present station " ; he told us that the Governor of the castle, was named " Christie." From the newspapers, we learn, that "Lord Eglinton held another tournament, on the 30th inst., when the long anticipated banquet, and ball took place in magnifi- cent style." From letters also from London, we learn, that there are invitations for us all, from the Duke of Wellington to dinner, this is the second oppor- tunity we have lost, of dining with this distinguished man ; our absence at this time, preventing it, of course. Monday Evening, September 2. Edinburgh. We embarked on board a steamboat this morning, and saw many objects of interest, as we passed along the river Forth ; on its banks, were the ruins of a mon- astery of Cistercians, long since gone, and the few remains of a castle, where it is said, the Grand- mother of Oliver Cromwell was born. On our way to the steamer, we had a good view of " Cambusken- neth Abbey," alluded to in the " Lady of the Lake," and also in Miss Porter's " Scottish Chiefs " as a spot associated with the name of William Wallace. [ 264 ] BY STEAMBOAT TO EDINBURGH One spot was pointed out, as the residence in olden times of a lady named Stuart, who had in her pos- session a sword, once belonging to Robert Bruce. She was an aristocratic old lady, and when she was asked if she belonged to Bruce's family, with great dignity and hauteur, she replied : " Robert Bruce belonged to 7ny family. Sir." With this sword, she used to confer the honour of knighthood, and it is said, that Burns the poet, was once knighted in this way, by the old lady Stuart. We stopped at Alloa for coal, but our sail was much protracted, owing to constant stoppages, and finally a copious shower completed the regret we had already begun to experience, that we had not taken the land route to Edinburgh. When however, the beautiful city became visible, in the dis- tance, we were consoled, in the hope of arriving at last, and of exchanging our wet garments, near a com- fortable fire. We were landed at Newhaven, and crossing a long chain pier at " Trinity," found car- riages in waiting, that soon brought us to this comf ort- . able " Douglas Hotel," where " Holton " was awaiting our coming, having accompanied the luggage, and carriage, and previously arranged with our host, for the suite of very fine apartments which we now occupy. [ 265 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND September 3. Douglas Hotel, Edinburgh. "We have been busily occupied all day, in endeavoring to make ourselves familiar, with this novel, and pictur- esque city ; we have also been tempted to purchase some beautiful Scotch fabrics, the manufacture of which, is peculiar to Scotland. Among other things, we have visited the " Museum of Scotch Antiquities," where we saw what is said to be the real "John Knox's pulpit," although there are some four or five others, shown, in different parts of Scotland ; pos- sibly, he may have at different times, used them all. There was also the " Standard of the Covenanters " used at the battle of Bothwell Bridge, a pair of white kid gloves, embroidered in black, once the property of Queen Mary, a cane, with the name of " Signer da Rizzio," on its ivory head, also, a large rusty key, found in Loch Leven, and lastly, a ticket of admis- sion "to a Ball, and Masquerade," that was to have been given in Boston, America, in 1776, but was given up, in consequence of the departure of the British troops. Our spacious parlour, from which I write, faces the square, in front of the house, where stands, a fine monument to Lord Melville, whose statue ornaments the top. Beyond this square, some ways down George's Street, facing our windows, [ 266 ] EDINBURGH stands a statue of George IV ; down the same beau- tiful street, still below this, is still another, erected to William Pitt. On our left, is the « Eoyal bank," with a statue of the 4th Earl of Hopetoun standing beside a horse, the head of the animal bent down between his forefeet. The population of Edinburgh is about 40,000. Mr. Webster has just returned from a visit to the Courts of Law, and Advocates' library, and has seated himself in Walter Scott's chair. We all know that this is the scene of the " Heart of Mid Lothian " ; Edinburghshire is Mid Lothian, Had- dingtonshire is East Lothian, and Linlithgowshire is West Lothian. The whole of the South shore of the Firth of Forth, bears the general name of " Lo- thian," being divided into the above named counties. I have found here a long and interesting letter from Lady Georgiana Fane, in which she speaks of the Duke's having sent us aU invitations to dinner, and says he appeared " excessively disappointed " when he learned from her, that Mr. Webster was not in London. To-morrow we go to " Dalmahoy " for a few days, the seat of the Earl of Morton, which is about nine miles from Edinburgh. This invitation we re- ceived, and accepted in London, but Mr. Webster felt, that owing to the accession to our party, we [ 267 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND were too numerous now, to make this visit, and went with excuses to Lord and Lady Morton to-day ; but these hospitable persons would not listen to any ex- cuses, and insisted on Mr. Webster's bringing us all to Dalmahoy to-morrow, as they had been expect- ing us for two days, and rooms were ready for our occupancy, and in short, they would take no refusal, Wednesday, September 4. This is by far, the most beautiful city, I ever saw. Its streets and public buildings are certainly on a very magnificent scale, and nothing can be more striking, than the contrast between the old town, and the new ; in the former, some of the houses rise to the height of twelve storeys. We have just returned from visiting the " Abbey, and palace of Holyrood," and " Edinburgh Castle." The former, was founded by David I, in 1128, some- times called " Saint David." " Sinoe good King David reared thy walls." It is a large quadrangular building of hewn stone, and so connected with Scottish history, that it by the most indifferent, cannot but be regarded with deep, and powerful interest. It is situated at the extreme end of the long street of the Canongate, overlooked by " Calton Hill," the " beetling cliffs " of " Salisbury [ 268 ] HOLiYROOD Crags," and " Arthur's Seat" ; yet the situation of HoljTOod house is low, and far from being imposing, notwithstanding the romantic scenery that surrounds it. No use has been made of the Abbey since the revolution, except as a cemetery for the illustrious dead. At the upper end, on the right, is a vault, into which we looked, through an iron grating, and there lay, the skeleton figures, of the only remaining kings, and queens of Scotland ; the coffins enclosing them are long since gone, and there they lie, on separate shelves, for the idle, and curious, to gaze upon. Among them are those of Darnley, Mary's husband, and Jane, Countess of ArgyU, half-sister to the Queen, and who was supping with her, and Rizzio, the night this unfortunate man was so savagely butchered, in the royal presence. A flat stone, cov- ers a grave, said to be his, but this is still a disputed fact. It is assigned as a reason, for doubting, that Rizzio's murderers hated and despised him too much, to have buried him, in so honoured a spot. In the only remaining tower, is a handsome marble monu- ment to the memory of Lord Belhaven, " who died at Edinburgh the 12th January, from the incarna- tion of the Messiah 1639, and of his age 66, being the third year above his great climacteric." Other [ 269 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND stones, mark the graves, of many Monks, Abbots, and Saints. On a tombstone of more recent date, than those that surround it, I read : " to the memory of the Earl of Selkirk, and his daughters, the Ladies Isabella and Catherine Douglas," they were the an- cestors of our London friends. The picture gallery, 150 feet long, an ordinary looking, cheerless apart- ment, contains the portraits of 100 Kings of Scot- land ; most of them were miserable daubs ; one female head among them, taken for Marie Stuart, but much defaced at Cromwell's time, by his people, who made this their barrack room. The cicerone, a respectable sort of matron, who monopolized the showing of these apartments, conducted us to poor "Marie's audience chamber," and more interesting stOl, to her " bed-room," and diminutive " closet," the scene of the Italian's murder. On the table is the armour (of gigantic proportions), boot and gloves, once worn by Henry Darnley. In the pres- ence room is a portrait of Jane Shore, Nell Gwyn, and a chair of state made for the Queen, at the time of her marriage with Darnley. The bed was of crim- son damask, with green trimmings and fringes, but sadly time-worn, and curtailed, by the fingers of rapacious antiquarians. The guide also exhibited [ 270 ] HOLYBOOD Queen Mary's workbox, and lier candlestick, and a covering for a workbox, the embroidery, the " work of the Queen's own hands." The rooms are, as they were, when occupied ; the dark passage, through which the conspirators came, is still shown, although we were warned not to enter, on account of the inse- curity of the floor, the partitions of which toere of red imint, but worm eaten, and fast decaying away. The unfortunate favorite was dragged from this closet, through the bedchamber, to the upper end of the presence room, where he was left, pierced with 56 wounds. To the stain of blood, our good woman, with the utmost faith, and credulity, called our attention, and also to the partition, which divided this, from the remainder of the room ; it once had, without doubt, been one apartment. According to the guide, Queen Mary had herself, ordered this partition, " to shut out from her sight the fatal spot," at the same time, she had forbidden the removal of the stains, that it might forever remain a monu- ment "of so black, and guilty a deed." After pur- chasing some prints descriptive of this interesting spot, we proceeded on our visit to Edinburgh castle, and while ascending to the top, which was quite steep, we met, several detachments of the 78th Highlanders, [ 271 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND stones, mark the graves, of many Monks, Abbots, and Saints. On a tombstone of more recent date, than those that surround it, I read : " to the memory of the Earl of Selkirk, and his daughters, the Ladies Isabella and Catherine Douglas," they were the an- cestors of our London friends. The picture gaUery, 150 feet long, an ordinary looking, cheerless apart- ment, contains the portraits of 100 Kings of Scot- land ; most of them were miserable daubs ; one female head among them, taken for Marie Stuart, but much defaced at Cromwell's time, by his people, who made this their barrack room. The cicerone, a respectable sort of matron, who monopolized the showing of these apartments, conducted us to poor " Marie's audience chamber," and more interesting stUl, to her " bed-room," and diminutive " closet," the scene of the Italian's murder. On the table is the armour (of gigantic proportions), boot and gloves, once worn by Henry Darnley. In the pres- ence room is a portrait of Jane Shore, Nell Gwyn, and a chair of state made for the Queen, at the time of her marriage with Darnley. The bed was of crim- son damask, with green trimmings and fringes, but sadly time-worn, and curtailed, by the fingers of rapacious antiquarians. The guide also exhibited [ 270 ] HOIiYKOOD Queen Mary's workbox, and her candlestick, and a covering for a workbox, the embroidery, the " work of the Queen's own hands." The rooms arie, as they were, when occupied ; the dark passage, through which the conspirators came, is still shown, although we were warned not to enter, on account of the inse- curity of the floor, the partitions of which were of red paint, but worm eaten, and fast decaying away. The unfortimate favorite was dragged from this closet, through the bedchamber, to the upper end of the presence room, where he was left, pierced with 56 wounds. To the stain of blood, our good woman, with the utmost faith, and credulity, called our attention, and also to the partition, which divided this, from the remainder of the room ; it once had, without doubt, been one apartment. According to the guide. Queen Mary had herself, ordered this partition, " to shut out from her sight the fatal spot," at the same time, she had forbidden the removal of the stains, that it might forever remain a monu- ment "of so black, and guilty a deed." After pur- chasing some prints descriptive of this interesting spot, we proceeded on our visit to Edinburgh castle, and while ascending to the top, which was quite steep, we met, several detachments of the 78th Highlanders, [ 271 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND in their picturesque costumes, coming down. They were on their way to the Links of the river Forth. We afterward saw the whole regiment of five hun- dred men, from the castle ; it was a very fine sight. The view from the ramparts is very extensive and beautiful ; their great elevation commanding a vast extent of diversified country. In one room of the castle, James VI, the son of Mary, was born ; it is a dark, cheerless place, and not more than nine feet square. At 5 o'clock we drove to " Dalmahoy," and were received with great cordiality by Lord and Lady Morton. On our way we passed the extensive estate of Sir James Craig, i The Countess of Haddington is staying here, a lady of about 60 years of age (we had previously met her one evening at Lady Wharncliffe's in Lon- don). Mr. Hope,2 the dean of Faculty, arrived soon after ourselves, and he, and Lady Haddington and ourselves, constitute the dinner guests to-day. Lord Morton had just returned from a shooting excursion with his son, as we arrived, and received us in his hunting apparel. He is a charming person, with ^ Sir James Gibaon-Craig, Baronet, 1765-1850. 2 Johu Hope, 1794-1858 ; Scottish judge ; Dean of Faculty o£ Advocates, 1830. [ 272 ] HOPETOUN HOUSE great simplicity of manners, cultivated, and hospi- table, a direct descendant from George Douglas, i the first Earl of Morton, who so aided Mary's escape from Loch Leven. A portrait of the Queen, once his property, and known to be original, hangs over the drawing-room mantel-piece at Dalmahoy ; it is a pleasing picture, but not so beautiful a face, as the one I have spoken of, as seen at Warwick Castle. Thursday, September 5. Dalmahoy. The rain, which had been unceasing, until one o'clock, did cease, to our great joy, at the hour of luncheon, and Lady Morton proposed a drive to Hopetoun House, which, as it is said to be one of the finest things in Scotland, we were glad of an opportunity of seeing. Lady Hopetoim, and her beautiful sister Miss Mac- donald, had just returned from Eglinton castle. The house itself contains some remarkable paintings. A Mui-illo, of a Lady Abbess, has been several times copied, and is a most powerful painting. The pic- tures were all attached to the walls, by hinges, allowing their being moved, like a door, or shutter, 1 George Douglas, -who helped Queen Mary escape from Loch- leveu in 1567, was never Earl of Morton. His elder brother, William Douglas, succeeded to the peerage in 1588, as 6th or 7th Earl of Morton. This latter was custodian of Queen Mary at Lochleven, and was the ancestor of the Earls of Morton. [ 273 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND to accommodate the light. This is not unusual in other picture galleries we have visited. The grounds however, are the great charm of the spot. The sea terrace is quite extensive, and commands a fine view of the Firth of Forth, Blackness castle, and Borrow- stounness, all of which places, we had ourselves passed, on the river, in coming to Edinburgh. The place is celebrated all over Scotland for its extensive prospect. A " Scotch mist," produced by the rain, was prevailing, which injured the view, greatly to Lady Hopetoun's regret, who remarked " that if we pronounced it fine, in this state of the atmosphere, that she might, without vanity be allowed to say, that we should be enchanted on a day, when the at- mosphere was quite clear." Lady Hopetoun has one son and heir, an only child, i and in a fair way to be spoiled, by the specimen we had. Her health, ever since his birth, has been very precarious. She now suffers from a dropsical complaint, and her lips, which are quite purple, in their colour, indicate also, an additional complaint of the heart. They both wore mourning for the recent death of a Sister ; the clear and brilliant complexion of Miss Macdonald, contrasting most becomingly, with the sombre hue ' John Alexander Hope, 6th Earl of Hopetoun, 1831-73. [ 274 ] HOPETOUN HOUSE of her dress. They said, that although the ball, took place on the next night but one, at Egliuton, it was not the successful affair, that was antici- pated ; the continued rain having caused a damp- ness, which the heat of the wax lights for a time contributed so much to increase, that ladies were all sending for their scarfs, mantles, and even their cashmere shawls, to protect themselves from the chill, produced by the mist, of the temporary ball- room. Unfortunate Lord Egliuton ! And still more unfortunate tournament bringing in the end, but disappointment, and dismay, to its amiable, and ex- cellent projector I I quite congratulate myseK on having seen this beautiful and far-famed Hopetoun. The poet Burns, in a little song, to the tune of "Maggy Lauder" (I believe), thus speaks of it: " Had I Dundas' whole estate, Or Hopetouri's wealth to shine in, Did warlike laurels crown my brow, Or humbler bays entwining, I 'd lay them a' at Jeannie's feet Could I but hope to move her, And prouder than a belted Knight I 'd be my Jeannie's lover." &c. &c. &c. We reached Dalmahoy just in time to make our toilette for dinner. The homeward drive was de- [ 275 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND lightful, the sun was again shining, and the culti- vated, and beautiful country, seen to the best advan- tage. We talked of Miss Burdett-Coutts ; Lady Morton thought she might never marry, from her having been already, the mark for so numerous a class of fortune hunters, and the extreme difficulty of making a choice, where the temptation of her im- mense wealth, made their pretensions so question- able. Lady Morton named one or two gentlemen, who had made love to the lady, but the wealthy heiress read their hearts, and scorned their love. I shrewdly suspect that the Kev'd. Mr. Harness is not without hopes of success in this quarter. He half seriously, desired me one evening, at Miss Rogers', to recommend him to the lady, but nothing but the strictest intimacy, could excuse an intrusion of that nature. Lady Morton also related anecdotes of "Walter Scott, who often visited at Dalmahoy. When the Tales of a Grandfather first appeared, her elder children with eagerness, again, and again devoured its contents, and very soon the book became dog- eared, and thumbed, from its constant use. One evening, as it lay upon the table, Sir Walter saw its condition, and turning to Lady Morton assured her [ 276 ] DALMAHOY " it was the greatest compliment he had ever received," and he then sat down among the children at the table, and related to them additional anecdotes of their ancestor the Earl of Douglas, and entranced the children's attention for over an hour, to the de- light of all auditors, both great, and small. Our hostess was disappointed in two guests at dinner, Mr. Stewart, a neighbouring gentleman, and their son and heir. Lord Aberdour,i he is in the army, and now stationed at Stirling, with his regiment ; he was at Quebec with Lord Durham. Lord Morton wrote to his Son, to obtain leave of absence, but from his not appearing, they infer, that the applica^ tion was unsuccessful. Owing to the late Chartist disturbances, they have become very strict in the army. There was however, no deficiency of either hilarity, or kindness, and good cheer, at our dinner table, and the evening has been enlivened by good music from Lady Anne,^ the eldest unmarried daughter, and the agreeable interchange of conver- sation, and pleasant chat, among all parties. The Governess, a particularly ladylike, interesting, and 1 Sholto John Donglas, Lord Aberdour, 1818-84, later 18th Earl of Morton. 2 Ellen Snsan Anne Douglas was the second daughter. [ 277 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND youthful person, appeared after dinner, at Lady Morton's "invitation." She told us, that she did this frequently ■vfhen there was company, but never, when she, and Lord Morton were alone. She also remarked (and it seemed most just), that the situa- tion of a Governess was after all rather pitiable, for she seemed to belong to, neither one class, nor the other, in English Society, poor thing! I sat down by this invited " guest," and found her sensible, modest, and apparently clever, and thought how desolate and lonely, must her lot often be! Our hostess has six children, three boys, and three girls ; little Gertrude who is three years old, and the youngest, is admitted daily to the dessert, while the older ones are found afterward in the drawing-room. This little girl is the pet, and darling, is very lovely, with blue eyes, flaxen hair in long ringlets, and rosy cheeks and lips; they dress her in embroidered cambrics, and muslins, trimmed with ribbon and bows, and she is indeed one of the sweetest little Hebes I ever looked upon. Lady Haddington over- heard her correcting her nurse, who called her " Miss Gertrude," she insisting she was not " Miss," but the "Lady Gertrude"; they were apparently much amused at this, and wondered where she could [ 278 ] DALMAHOY have learned the fact ! The eldest daughter " has married Viscount Milton, the eldest son of Lord FitzwilHam, to whose country seat near Peterbor- ough, Mr. Webster and party have been invited. Lady Milton was confined in July, with a son and heir. Lady Morton herself, is daughter to Sir George Eose, who many years ago was British minister to our country. The Duke of Gordon, from whose castle Willis wrote his letters, is a relative of Lady Morton; it seems that WiUis, on his return to America, wrote an apologetical letter to his Grace, on account of his recent pubhcations, and at the same time begged permission to dedicate his forth- coming book to him ! Friday evening, September 6. Edinburgh. Lord and Lady Morton expressed much regret that we could not remain with them another day, but our engagements prevented. We have been dining, according to previous ar- rangement, at " Craigcrook Castle," the country place of Lord Jeffrey,^ nine mdes out of Edinburgh. Mrs. ^ Frances Harriet Donglas, daughter of George Sholto, 17tli Earl of Morton ; married, 1838, William Thomas Spencer Wentworth- Fitzwilliam, Viscount Milton, later 6th Earl Fitzwilliam ; died, 1895. 2 Francis Jeffrey, Lord Jeffrey, 1773-1850 ; Scottish judge and critic ; Judge of the Court of Sessions, 1834-50. [ 279 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Jeffrey, and her Daughter Mrs. Empson, had called on us this morning, and named half past six, as their dinner hour, but Lord Jeffrey afterward, saw Mr. Webster, and made it a particular request, that he would come out at five, that he might have an oppor- tunity of showing him his park, grounds, &c. Mrs. Jeffrey was walking in her grounds, when we arrived, but shortly appeared, with a bouquet of pinks, from her garden, and after sitting for a short time retired to dress for dinner. Mrs. Jeffrey is an American, and was the daughter of the late Mr. Charles Wilkes of New York. She was cousin to the first Mrs. Charles Codman i (formerly Miss McMasters), and about the present wife, she made many enquiries. She is full of intelligence, and talent, but labours under a most excessive nervous affection, that keeps her limbs, and features, in a constant, and painful mo- tion. Her daughter, has an infant five months old, which she is to leave shortly, in the care of her Mother, while she accompanies her husband for six or seven months to London. Lord Jeffrey himself, is a small sized, rather spare person, with a prepos- sessing countenance, with hair of mingled grey. His house is not large, but prettily furnished. It was 1 Ann McMasters ; married Charles Russell Codman. C 280 ] DINNER WITH LORD JEFFREY formerly attached to the ecclesiastical estate of Holy- rood, but at the time of the suppression of the mon- asteries, it fell into other hands, when Lord Jeffrey shortly after his marriage, purchased it of Mr. Cadell,' the Edinburgh book-seller (connected with Walter Scott, and often mentioned by Lockhart, in his life of his father-in-law). Over the mantel-piece in Lord Jeffrey's " den " was an exquisite piece of oak carving inserted in the wall ; a relic from the screen of a ca- thedral, I believe. His guests were Sir Eobert Rolfe,^ Mr. Rutherfurd the Lord advocate, Lord Colburn,^ Lord Fullerton,^ and Mr. FuUerton, and Mr. Emp- son, the son-in-law ; these were men of eminence of the bench and bar. In the drawing-room, was a cabinet portrait in full length, of Keats. He was an intimate friend of Lord J's, and the likeness, they said, was strik- ing. It was a melancholy face. Mrs. Jeffrey hap- pened to receive a letter to-day from Mr. Edward Ellice, who owns a place in the Highlands, the pur- 1 Robert Cadell, 1788-1649 ; Edinburgh publisher. 2 Sir Eobert Monsey Eolfe, later Baron Cranworth, 1790-1868 lawyer ; took a seat on the bench in 1839. * Possibly Henry Thomas Cockbum, Lord Cookburn, 1779-1854 Scottish jndg-e. * John Fullerton, Lord FuUerton, 1775-1853 ; Soottiah judge Lord of Session. [ 281 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND port of the letter, was for them to say to "Mr. Webster and party, that he depended on seeing them in the Highlands, and that if we would come for two days, to his house, he would accompany us to Aber- deen, and other places of interest near." This would be interesting and agreeable, but Mr. Webster has decided, that it is out of our power to go further north, and the invitation must therefore be declined, as well as another, which Mr. Webster has received, to dine with the Dean of Faculty, to-morrow ; but we must proceed on our way. We left Dalmahoy this morning after breakfast, Mr. Webster being under an engage- ment at 12 o'clock, to visit with Mr. Hope (the Dean of Faculty), the Advocates' library and other institutions connected with it. Lady Haddington civilly expressed her regret that her absence from home deprived her of the pleasure of receiving us at " Tynninghame House." A few weeks in the vicinity of Edinburgh might be most profitably and agreeably spent ; we did not attempt the ascent of " Salisbury Crag," or of " Ar- thur's Seat," both of which are celebrated for their fine, and extensive views. On the whole, this is the most beautiful and striking city we have yet seen, and the prognostications of Sir Robert Peel, have been [ 282 ] SCOTLAND AND THE SCOTCH more than verified, for we are very " much " pleased with " far famed Caledonia." September 7. Cornhill, Northumberland. We find ourselves unexpectedly, once more in England, as this little piece of the County of Northumberland comes in a strange way up to this corner, although the larger portion of the county, is fifty miles dis- tant. There is much in Scotland to delight the eye, and gratify the taste, but in point of neatness, and comfort, England greatly excels her neighbour. Among the peasantry, and at the different Inns, this is particularly striking. The women of the common class in Scotland wear no shoes or stockings, although on Sundays, and gala days, they dress as well as the same class, in our own country; but from Kilmar- nock to Eglinton, the people, although dressed in their best, were walking the roads in crowds, and both male, and female, with their bare feet ! We were detained longer than we intended at Edin- burgh this morning, in consequence of the chamber- maid's having abducted a quantity of our valuable laces and muslins, under the pretence of getting them clearstarched. On sending our maid for the missing articles, the chamber-maid strenuously denied all knowledge of them, denying that she ever received [ 283 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND them, &c. As this occurred, as we were on the point of leaving, we laid our case before the Landlady, who hopes to be able to restore our lost articles. There was a large quantity, and of considerable value, and we shall be much inconvenienced if we do not recover the articles again.* At haK past seven, again in the rain, we left Edinburgh and drove to Torsonce, a distance of twenty-four miles, where we breakfasted ; the house untidy, the breakfast uninviting. There taking fresh horses we proceeded to " Galashiels," and thence to " Abbotsford " the darling home of Sir Walter Scott, the " Tweedside laird." How shall I describe my feelings, as we first caught sight of this deeply interesting spot ? But who could see even its distant turrets, with indifference? It stands low, on the banks of the Tweed (a sweet river, overhung by bushes). It commands no prospect, and is alto- gether a less stately edifice, than would be inferred from most of the prints that are seen. Sir Walter called it "Abbotsford" from the fact of the lands, having once belonged to Melrose Abbey ; and Mel- rose itself is visible from different spots about the * Some days after they were most of them forwarded to us, but we should never have found them, had we not made a great stir in the matter, and insisted on the Jacts. (H. S. P.) [ 284 ] ABBOTSFOKD grounds. The entrance hall is about 40 feet long, the floor in mosaic of black and white marble. It contains a great variety of interesting relics, of all kinds. The ceiling is painted to resemble oak, and ornamented with the family crest. Emblazoned on the wall opposite the entrance, are the shields and crests of the Border Chieftains with various devices, and above them this inscription: " These be the coat armories of the clannis, and chiefmen of name, wha keepit the marchys of Scot- land in the auld tyme for the kynge ; Trewe war they in their tyme, and in their defense, God them de- fendyt." On the left of the wall are two carved figures rep- resenting Saint Peter, and Saint Paul, copied from Melrose ; as was also a stone mantel-piece here seen. At the opposite extremity are two mailed figures, in full suits of armour, one being copied from the Tower of London, and the other, we were told by the show-woman, was Italian. From the entrance haU we passed to a sort of small armoury fiUed with spears, claymores, and a great, and interesting col- lection of various warlike implements. This com- municates with the dining-room, not of very large dimensions, hung round with portraits, and contig- [ 285 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND uous is the drawing-room, where near an Oriel win- dow, overlooking the Tweed, is said to be the con- secrated spot where the " Mighty Minstrel of the North" as Washington Irving calls him, breathed out his precious life. The whole house abounds with antiquities. The Library is next contiguous, and evidently a more recent addition in Sir Walter's later, and more prosperous days. It is handsome, and spacious, being somewhere about sixty feet by fifty. It is said to contain twenty odd thousand vol- umes. Over the mantel, is a full length portrait of the eldest son, the present Sir Walter, in his hand- some regimental dress. He has now gone with his regiment to India. His appearance is said to be quite unlike his Father's ; he has not the reputation either of any remarkable talent, or cleverness, he might however, pass for such, were he the son of almost any other man. Since the death of the original, Chantrey's noble bust of Sir Walter, has been placed in a niche in this library, also one of ShaksjJeare, a facsimile to the oue over the tomb at Avon. From this, we passed to the study or sanctum of Sir Wal- ter; it was truly a hallowed spot! Here was the table, or desk, at which he wrote, the chair he oc- cupied, the lamp and its midnight oil yet unspent, [ 286 ] ABBOTSFORD but the magic minstrel where was he ? It was a small, plain apartment lighted by one single window, with a cabinet, and bookshelves. A gaUery, or balustrade encircles the wall above, and communicates through a small door, to the dressing-room, and bed-room of the Poet. From these apartments. Sir Walter could descend the staircase to the room below, going, and returning at his will, without another's cognizance. Attached to this lower room, is a little closet, the four pillars of which are composed of the posts of a bedstead, said to have been once the property of Mary of Scots, in childhood ; it is of very ancient oak, somewhat elaborately carved, a gift to Sir Wal- ter, many years ago. Against the wall, is a glass case containing the last garments he wore ; the pantaloons of shepherd's plaid, the coat, and vest, and hanging near, are his boots, his cane, upon which he so con- stantly leaned, and likewise his hunting belt. These are most painful, and affecting memorials of a great man, but I question the propriety, of placing them where they are, for the gratification of public curi- osity ; they are too sacred to be looked upon by every vulgar eye. In the drawing-room was a table, and upon it a large vase, a present from Lord Byron to Scott ; we also saw a beautiful carved writing desk, [ 287 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND the gift of George III, and chairs richly wrought (in ebony I presume), from King George IV. The gar- den was fuU of blooming flowers. In it, was a large stone fountain, said to have stood upon the cross at Edinburgh, and to have played with wine, on g^eat occasions, in former times. In our walk about the grounds, we were accosted by an aged woman of neat appearance, who said in broad, and almost unintel- ligible Scotch, that it was " saft weather." She told me that she " cam wi Thomas Purdie sax and twenty years ago to Abbotsford," and here she had remained ever since. It was the " rib " of poor Thomas Purdie, the faithful wood-forester, whose death, was so shock- ing to Sir Walter that he writes to CadeU that he really "wished to be quit of the country, and safe in town." Close to Melrose Abbey is a monument to bis memory, erected by Sir Walter, ten years ago ; the epitaph finishes with this beautiful quotation from Scripture : " Thou hast been faithfvd over a few things, I will make thee ruler over many things." On the left of the garden pathway, just on entering the porch is a representation in stone, of the favorite stag hound Maida, with the following inscription ; " Maidae Marmorea dormia sub imagine Maida Ad januam domiiii sit tibi terra levia." [ 288 ] ABBOTSFORD Lockhart in his " Life " tells us, this was thus Eng- lished by Sir Walter : " Beneath the sculptured form which late you wore, Sleep soundly, Maida, at your Master's door." There is said to be an error, in the second line, " Ad januam," being false in quantity, acknowledged after- ward by the poet, and explained also in Lockhart's life of Scott. We were at once, reminded of Fletcher's ejiitaph, on his father's famous horse " Steamboat," so cele- brated for his great strength and speed, buried on Gotham hill, at Marshfield. Hio jacet Steamboat D. Websterii Equus celeberrimus Siste viator ! viator te major hie sistit. Lady Morton told me that Anne Scott ' was ex- tremely good and amiable, but not remarkable in any way for talent. Sophia 2 (Mrs. Lockhart) bore a much closer mental resemblance to her Father, and was clever and accomplished. The son of Lockhart's (" Johnny ") , who died, was a child of most uncommon 1 Anne Scott ; died, 1833. " Charlotte Sophia Scott; married John Gibson Lockhart ; died, 1837. [ 289 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND promise ; the two surviving ones, a son and daughter, are both of delicate constitutions, and have not as yet, given proofs of inheriting the cleverness of the lit- tle " Johnny Lockhart," about whom Scott expressed himself so anxiously, and prophetically in his " diary." A distance of three miles brought us to Melrose Abbey, the scene of the " Lay of the last Minstrel." It is an interesting ruin, and the perspective on en- tering is fine. It had one great deficiency which I could not overcome ; the absence of the ivy which adds so much to most other ruins in Europe. The guide, Johnny Bower, a bit of an artist (of whom we purchased views of Abbotsford, and of these ruins), remarked that ivy, was the particular dislike of " the Laird," it being so destructive to ruins, in- sinuating itself between the stones, and thereby caus- ing them to fall. This observation surprised me, as I had previously quite a different impression, that by its clinging support, a fine colunm, or an arch, had been often hereby, preserved, to the delight of aU anti- quarians, and lovers of the picturesque. This abbey was built by the Cistercians, an order of monks, for- merly from Normandy, I think ; notwithstaading its want of " clasping tendrils," no one can feel any- thing but deep interest in a spot, so hallowed with [ 290 ] A PAGE OF THE JOURNAL Facsimile j'.'K, ;;JIT "HI 'klA'i /■ MELROSE ABBEY the memory of the " good Sir Walter," and it is also said to be the same place, under the name " Ken- naquhair " alluded to in the " Monastery," and the "Abbot." Our showman was enthusiastic in his praises of Sir Walter, several times repeating scraps of his poetry, and of that well-known extract, be- ginning : " If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright, Go visit it by the pale moonlight." All similar scenes are greatly enhanced by the " pale light of the moon," but of this enjoyment, we were necessarily denied. Johnny pointed out the east window of the South transept through which the moon came, and imagination did the rest. He also shewed us the stone upon which the Poet used to sit with Maida by his side. He said that Sir Walter was generally accompanied by some " great person- age," staying at Abbotsford, with him, and that seven or eight times during the season, he was there. On his last visit, he was accompanied by Captain Burns, the son of the Poet. When Johnny expressed the hope that his contemplated visit to Italy would be of serv- ice, Scott shook his head, and said : " I fear, Johnny, this is the last time we shall meet in this world. If so, then fare ye well, Johnny, for I fear it is so." [ 291 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Three miles from Melrose is Dryburgh Abbey, along the banks of the river Tweed, where lie the remains of the " Master of Abbotsford," the spot in life, he chose, for his last resting place, where also lie the Haliburtons, the ancestors of his Mother. On the 26th of September he was here interred in the year 1832. No sound disturbed the poet's tomb, but the distant murmuring of his favorite Tweed. " So Heaven has willed it, and we die." The rain had ceased, and our drive from Melrose to Kelso, fifteen miles distant, was very agreeable. The town is very beautifully located, and has great celebrity for its salmon fishing and sporting. " Lam- mermoor " is but a few miles distant. The view from the bridge, is finely picturesque, commanding a sight of Roxburgh, or Fleurs castle, the seat of the young Duke of Roxburghe,! whose Duchess,^ last Thurs- day, (we were told by Lady Morton), had presented him, with a son, and heir, the happy event being hailed with great rejoicings, in the family. The dis- tant view of the old abbey of Kelso, adds much to ^ James Henry Robert Innes-Ker, 6tli Duke of Roxburghe, 1816-79. 2 Susanna Stephanie Dalblac, daughter of Lieutenant-General Sir James Charles ; married, 1836, James Henry Robert Innes-Ker, 6th Duke of Roxburghe. [ 292 ] DRYBURGH ABBEY TO CORNHILL, the effect of the landscape. It appears to be a min- gling of the Gothic, with the Saxon style of archi- tecture ; the arches that support the " lantern " of the tower, are thought to be inferior only, to York Minster. The coronation of King James took place in this church, in 1460 immediately upon the death of his Father, by the explosion of a cannon before the ancient castle of Roxburgh, the ruins of which are to be seen, a mile farther on. It was destroyed in 1460 ; the modern one, is still in the process of com- pletion. Our next post was to this place (Cornhill) through the town of Coldstream, where we have secured com- fortable apartments. The Marquis of Waterford,i one of the Knights of the Tournament (and who made himself so conspicuous in our country a few years ago), is the owner of large estates in the vi- cinity of Cornhill ; the Landlord tells us that he is now, ybr the first time, on a visit to these possessions, in the neighborhood. The land adjacent to the town, belongs principally to the Earl Grey. 1 Henry de la Poer Beresford, 3d Marquis of Waterford, 1811- 59. In his youth he obtained an unenviable notoriety for his eccen- tricities, hut became afterwards one of the best landlords and most improving cultivators in Ireland, and universally popular and respected. [ 293 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Here we shall quietly pass to-morrow, it being Sunday, after which, we shall bid adieu to Scotland. " Farewell to the mountains high cover'd with snow; Farewell to the straths and green valleys below; Farewell to the forests and wild-hanging woods; Farewell to the torrents and loud-pouring floods." How frequently of late, has Robert Burns, and his sweet and true poetry, been brought to my recol- lection, by recent scenes ! VI 3'oumep hath to ItonDon SUNDAY, September 8. I am unable to accom- pany the rest of the party, to the church, near our lodgings, by an attack of rheumatism, caused by the constant dampness of the atmosphere. We were awakened from our repose at twelve o'clock last night, by a loud knocking, and beating against the outside door, with repeated calling, vociferating, and whistling beneath the bedroom windows. The in- mates of the house, at length were roused, and after a rather long " confabulation," from the windows above, they were closed and the voices ceased, and all was again quiet. On enquiring at breakfast, the cause of this midnight uproar, and disturbance, we learned, that the Marquis of Waterford, had chosen that time of the night, for ordering post horses, to be in readiness this morning, for himself, and friends, to take them on a sporting, or fishing excursion, to Kelso to-day / They told us at this latter place, that this notorious personage, was shortly exjiected there. Consequently, soon after our breakfast was finished, [ 295 ] DANIEL WEBSTEK IN ENGLAND Lord Waterford, accompanied by his brother-in-law, Lord Ingestrei (a very wild fellow), Lord Aliord^ and Mr. Beresford, drove to the inn door, followed by a post-chaise, containing various articles of lug- gage, ammunition, champagne baskets, wooden tubs &c. &c. Their arrival apparently creating, great sen- sation in the neighbourhood, a crowd soon surround- ing the carriages, and their party. After half an hour, spent in overlooking the transportation by their liveried servants, of these articles to the different parts of the travelling carriage, and strewing the roadside with the straw used in packing, they made preparations for their departure, with their four horses and open barouche, not before, however. Lord Waterford had made a profound bow, with a mis- chievous look at Julia, who had been a witness of aU their proceedings, unobserved, as she had surely sup- posed, behind the muslin shade of the window. September 8.' Aln Bridge, Northumberland. The weather was " pluvious " from the time of our quit- ^ Henry John Chetwynd-Talbot, Viscount Ingestre, later 3d Earl Talbot and 18th Earl of Shrewsbury, 1803-68; mamed 1828, Sarah Elizabeth Beresford, daughter of Henry de la Poer, 2d Marquis of Waterford. ^ John Hume Oust, Viscount Alford, 1812-51 ; son of Earl Brownlow. ^ The date is repeated. [ 296 ] CORNHILL TO DURHAM ting Cornhill this evening, until reaching the above. We passed over the scene of the battle of " Flod- den Field," and by "Ossulston Park" the seat of the Earl of Tankerville. Our first post thirteen miles, brought us to Wooler, thirteen more, and we reached this place. The inn is clean and comfort- able ; we have ordered fires for all our bedrooms, but hope for more favorable weather, for an early start, on the morrow. Alnwick castle, the celebrated seat of the Duke of Northumberland, is but eight miles distant, but it is out of our route, the Duke is also there, and we do not visit it to-morrow. September 9. Northallerton, Yorkshire. We left "Aln Bridge" at 7 o'clock; breakfasted at "Mor- peth" fourteen miles, changing horses at a town called "Coquet" half way between the two. Fifteen miles further brought us to " Newcastle-upon-Tyne " ; the taU, smoky chimneys of its collieries, bringing to mind even at the distance the old adage " of car- rying coals to Newcastle." Nine more miles, and we reached Durham, where we tarried a short time to examine its ancient cathedral, which has consid- erable celebrity. It is of the Anglo-Saxon style, and the largest we have yet seen. The exterior of yel- [ 297 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN- ENGLAND lowish stone is very fine, not strictly in the form of the Greek cross, like most others, we have visited, and there are more than the usual number of tran- septs. It was built at the end of the tenth, and the beginning of the eleventh century. The oak carv- ings on the principal door, are very beautiful ; the font is a very singular one, of the same material, in the main central aisle. The columns of the church, are of varied, singular, and even of rude architec- ture. Behind the screen of the grand altar, was the shrine of Saint Cuthbert, the stone being quite worn away, where the guide said, the " PilgTims were ac- customed to kneel and pray." The tombs and mon- uments were not numerous. The most remarkable was that of Bede, the historian, with the following inscription : " Hao sunt in fossa Bedae Venerabilis ossa." Another stone covered the remains of Stephen Kemble, the brother of John, but I read no other familiar names. Our next post from Durham was Eushyford nine miles distant, and sixteen more brought vis to Dar- lington. According to the little minutes, which the dean of faculty Mr. Hope, gave Mr. "Webster, at [ 298 ] RAIN AND THE CROPS parting, this town as a resting place, was to be avoided. The hotel looked uninviting. A few min- utes consultation decided us to order " horses out," and proceed nineteen miles further to this North- allerton, from which place I now write. By means of a douceur to the "boys," these last 19 miles were accomplished, according to Mr. Appleton's watch, in just one hour and a half. Thus we have driven 82 miles, and have reached here at a quarter before seven o'clock ; we have just finished a repast com- bining a dinner, and tea in one. We are now one hundred and seventy miles from Edinburgh. Again the rain has followed us, but a rainy day in Eng- land, or Scotland, seems to differ from ours ; here, it is composed of showers, with occasional promises of sunshine, and then again — " Comes a shower Of rain, that might deluge the world in an hour I " Mr. Webster thinks that to this is to be attrib- uted the fact, that the corn (the great product of this country, and which means any kind of grain), is not completely spoiled, by the prevailing rains, of the last month. The light breezes which occasion- ally spring up, with the glimpses of sunshine, ab- sorb the moisture shed by the rain upon the fields, [ 299 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND and preserve them from the fate, which with such a succession of American rainy days, must surely be- fall them. I have at last, found a book, that has told me, more than I knew, of the historian Bede, when I saw his tomb. I will copy it for the advantage of those at home, who may happen to be as ignorant as myself. "Venerable Bede, born at Wearmouth, in Dur- ham, A.D. 673 ; wrote Comments, or rather com- posed Catena on the principal books of the Old and New Testaments, from the writings of the Fathers, in which he interspersed a few original remarks. His works were printed at Colonna in 1688." September 10. York, Yorkshire. Breakfasted at Northallerton, and at seven o'clock were driving through a very pretty country to Eipon fifteen miles distant. Here we rested for the purpose of seeing the extensive and justly celebrated ruins of Foun- tains Abbey, three miles from the town, on the estates of a Miss Lawrence, a maiden lady of sev- enty. She owns not only the estate of Studley and Fountains Abbey, but a large part of Ripon itself, and the surrounding country. Our walk to the ruins, [ 300 ] FOUNTAINS ABBEY was quite that of a mile, through the beautiful grounds of the estate. The river "SkeU" runs through the spot, and has been made subservient to its liberal owner's taste, in giving greater effect, to the original loveliness of the spot. The walk was through long rows of shady trees, with occasional openings to most attractive views, not only of an artificial lake and river, but also of beautiful tem- ples, and rustic bridges; groups of fine statuary, give almost a fairyUke appearance to the whole. We were told by the guide that a walk of four miles would be necessary to see all the beauties of the place, but this we declined, requesting to be taken at once, to the ruins. The first view, riveted at once our attention, and admiration ; attractive as it is, it gives but a faint idea of its extreme extent, and beauty. In a hollow rock a short distance from the ruin, formed it is said, by an excavation when the Abbey was constructed, was the most remarkably distinct echo I ever remember to have heard. " Fountains Abbey " was built by that powerful or- der, the Cistercian monks in 1132 ; the edifice was consecrated to the Blessed Virgin, and in compli- ment to its chief patron St. Bernard, was named [ 301 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND after the place of his birth, " Fountains." " The Cistercians were an order that affected to restore that of St. Benedict to its original purity. Their austerity and strict religious discipline caused them to be much noticed, and being joined by St. Ber- nard, whose reputation for sanctity was only equalled by his abilities, they speedily became one of the most religious bodies in Christendom " ; so says history. We entered a door, through the " Lady chapel " which extends like a transept, beyond the body of the church. According to the guide, this single chapel was 131 feet by 27. The choir is 92 feet, 9 inches in length, and 67 feet, 3 inches in width. The two eastern arches are entire. The pavement of the Altar was quite perfect, with the exception of one single stone, abstracted by some sacrilegious wretch, but a few days previous. The mason was at that moment, endeavoring to remedy this misfortune, and our guide remarked, that should the fact of the theft, come to the knowledge of " the old lady," an end would be, at once put, to the coming of all future visitors, to the Abbey ; doubtless, greatly to the detriment of the said guide's fortunes. The nave is 99 feet in length, and we counted eleven arches on each side. [ 302 ] FOUNTAINS ABBEY The proportions of the great West window are very fine. From this, we passed to a quadrangular court, containing 126 square feet, and through this, we were taken to the ancient dormitory, to the refectory, and to the kitchen, also to tlie remains of the Abbot's residence, and apartments for visitors. The " Chapter House " still remains, with the tombs, and inscrip- tions upon many of them. South of the chapter house, was the Infirmary, and lodging-room. The kitchen, had a spacious fireplace, and communicated on one side, with a dining-room, on the other with a wine cellar, a curious spot, showing these saintly abbots, not unmindful of the good things of the flesh, as well as of the spirit. The Cloisters were however, tlie most interesting, and striking portion of the building. Through the care, and liberality of their owner, they are kept in a sound state, and although I have seen of late, many others, these realize my ideas of " a cloister," far beyond anything else. They are under ground like catacombs, and their perspective is su- perb. They have groined arches of the same rare antique architecture as that of Chester ; they are not supported on columns, but form one whole, to the ground. The same river Shell runs through the [ 303 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND South end of these Cloisters, and the sound of its rushing waters, is an agreeable accompaniment to the train of thought, the sight of all this antiquity produces. These Cloisters are 272 feet long. The only remaining Tower is a fine proportioned build- ing, one hundred feet high, and 24 feet square. Visitors formerly, ascended to the top; but in con- sequence of the accidental fall of a visitor from the passage (which appears very dangerous), to the op- posite side, the lady owner has very properly put an end to the practice, by lock and key. Just behind the tessellated altar, was a vacant stone coffin, which the g^ide informed us, once held the remains of Hot- spur, first Baron Percy, i and first Earl ; the fact has, I believe, never been questioned, as this individual is known, and believed, to have been here interred. The guide having accidentally learned, we were Amer- icans, entered eagerly into conversation with Mr. Webster, on the subject of American lands, and said, that he had an Uncle in Boston, named Thomas Parker, who dealt largely in sheep, &c. ; that he had some idea of going to America himself since he had 1 Sir Henry Percy (Hotspur) never succeeded to the titles, dying before his father, Henry de Percy, Ist Earl of Northumberland and 4th Lord Percy. [ 304 ] FOUNTAINS ABBEY learned the surprising fact, tliat five or six hundred pounds would purchase there, a very handsome estate. He said a good deal more, but his broad Yorkshire dialect was almost incomprehensible, and we finally relinquished any attempt to understand him. I shall never forget my visit to " Fountains Abbey," truly it was, " A noble wreck in ruinous perfection." These ruins appeal so powerfully to the mind, by their association with bygone ages, so much of learn- ing, ignorance, and magnificence, combined ! So much for the tourist, particularly an American, to dwell, and ponder upon, that I am " 'wildered with the thoughts, that have no utterance." I remember a verse, of an old English ballard, about Eobin Hood and King Richard, can any one tell me where to find all the verses ? This one runs : " From Fountains Abbey they did ride Down to Bamsdale ; Where Robin Hood prepared stood All company to assail." We drove back to Ripon ; the principal trade of the place is the making of saddle-trees. Our fresh post-horses soon took us to " Skipbridge," which is [ 305 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND eight miles from York ; from thence with again fresh horses, we caught our first view of the " Minster," rising as perceptibly in the distance as does St. Paul's from London, or the Castle of Edinburgh, from that beautiful city. As we entered York, a lady well mounted, attended by a groom, rode past us. We had scarcely alighted, when the servant, an- nounced to Mr. Webster, that Miss Harcourt, the daughter of the Archbishop of York,i was on her horse at the door, and wished to speak with him. The Archbishop was at Nuneham during our visit to Oxford, and Mr. Webster, when obliged to decline all their kind offers of civility there, promised to come to them when he visited York. The object of Miss Harcourt's present visit, was to ask us aU, to "the Palace" for a few days; when Mr. Webster was obliged to decline this kind proposal, she begged we would at least, stop, and dine with them to-mor- row. This also being necessarily declined, she kindly proposed our going there, to breakfast in the morn- ing, promising to' show us afterward, the " Minster" themselves. We lose many similar tempting invita- tions by our want of time, and even this, we cannot do, being under the necessity of proceeding to-mor- 1 Edward Harcourt, 1757-1847 ; Archbishop of York, 1807-47. [ 306 ] FOUNTAINS HALL row, we cannot spare the time, to unpack our trunks, and make a toilette, for this breakfast. Mr. Web- ster will therefore, go alone to the palace, three miles distant, while we will take advantage of the opportunity, to see the Cathedral, or Minster.* Mr. Egerton Vernon-Harcourt a son of the arch- bishop, we met at Oxford. He has since embarked for America, with several letters of introduction from Mr. Webster ; his sister says, they have learned of his safe arrival there. I forgot to mention in its proper place, of our hav- ing also visited this morning " Fountains Hall," built in the time of Henry VIII, out of the ruins of the abbey. It is now occupied by the Rector, and the Steward of the Estates. It is about twenty yards west of the Abbey, and has some windows of an- tique stained glass, and old armorial bearings on its front. I have likewise gathered these furtlier par- ticulars ; the whole length of the interior of the Abbey is 525 feet, it formerly covered thirteen acres of land, and the part which now remains covers about two acres. One sixth of the original portion of the establishment ! * From the Anglo-Saxon ' ' Mynster,' ' and the Latin ' ' Monaste- rium." (H. S. P.) [ 307 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND Lord de Grey,i and Lord Ripon 2 are the joint heirs of this extensive estate. September 11. Doncaster, Yorkshire. Notwith- standing the fine weather of yesterday, to-day, was again rainy and disagreeable. At 10 o'clock we sal- lied forth however; to the Minster, ia a " noddy " (a sort of cab). On our arrival at the door the Cice- rone, whom Mr. Webster had engaged in our behalf, on his earlier visit there this morning, announced that the service, that invariably takes place, twice a day, had already commenced, and there could be no inspection of the Minster, until that was over. We therefore availed ourselves of the guide's proposal, and entered the church, and joined in the service, which I regret to say, was performed by the differ- ent officials, in a very hasty, and heartless manner. Others, apparently strangers like ourselves, were con- stantly entering, and departing, in a way, that I had thought, belonged to Catholic churches alone, on the Continent. This cathedral, with the exception of St. Peter's, at Rome, is the largest in the world. It is called "the Pride of Yorkshire and the Ornament 1 Thomas Philip de Grey, Earl de Grey, 1781-1859 ; statesman. His name "was originally Robinson, brother of Lord Ripon. ^ Frederick John Robinson, Viscount Goderich, afterwards 1st Earl of Ripon, 1782-1859 ; statesman. [ 308 ] YORK MINSTER of England." It certainly is a magnificent pile, oc- cupying two centuries in building, and has stood for three centuries, since its completion. The whole church is 524 feet long, 223 in width. The windows of stained glass are all very superb, but the glory of the whole is the great East window, 75 feet high, 30 feet nine inches broad ; each pane of glass is nearly a yard square. A stone gallery runs across, dividing the window into two parts ; the view from this gal- lery, is said to be very grand, with a vista of 500 feet terminated by the beautiful west window. The figures on the stained glass represent the creation, and vari- ous passages from the Old Testament. The organ screen is of carved stone, representing the ancient Kings of England, from William the Conqueror, to Henry Vll's time. The cathedral consists of a nave, choir, a North, and a South transept, a "Ladye chapel," and two shrines, of which there were for- merly fourteen. Ten years ago, the choir, with the organ, and beautiful oak carving, was burned, and " nothing seen above," according to the words of the guide, " but the clouds of Heaven." This conflagra- tion was the work of an incendiary,' who was proved, on his trial, to have been insane. He was confined to * Jonathan Martin, 1782-1838; incendiary. [ 309 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND the lunatic asylum, and is since dead. The immense organ, the largest in Great Britain, as in most other cathedrals, separates the choir from the nave. There were many tombs around the aisles, and also, behind the screen, in the "Ladye chapel." In one of the three chapels of the South side, were some curious relics, preserved in a closet, which were shown us by the guide. One of the most remarkable was a horn, which we were told, was given to the church, by Ulphus, son of Thoraldus, who governed in the west parts of Deira. In consequence of a difference be- tween his two sons, about the disposition of hisestate after his death, he wenttoYork, and taking the horn, " wherein, we are told, he was wont to drink, filled it with wine, and kneeling on his knees before the altar, bestowed upon God, and the blessed St. Peter, all his lands, tenements &c." This horn, made of an elephant's tooth, has passed since the Reformation, through various hands, but was restored in 1675, by Lord Fairfax, although how, or when, it came into his possession is unknown. We also saw a crosier given by Queen Catherine of Portugal, to her Con- fessor when he was Archbishop of York, in 1687 ; also, three silver chalices, and several rings, found under the church, beneath the old pavement; a [ 310 ] YORK MINSTER wooden bead of Archbishop Rotberham, who died of the plague, and bis body was burned in efiSgy, this was found in bis tomb ; likewise, a large bowl given by Archbishop Scrope, to the Cordwainers of York, in the year 1398. On its edge, is an inscription to this effect, that to aU those who drink from that bowl is granted 40 days indulgence! In the choir, was a chair of Saxon origin, said to be thirteen hundred years old ; ia it, several Kings of England have been crowned, and the Guide, with no little pride boasted, that on Queen Victoria's visit to York, on the occa- sion of the last festival, he had seen her seated ia that very chair. The choir so unfortunately burned, is now rebuilt, a faithful copy of the original, and all marks of the conflagration are effaced. The chapter house is very elegant, and striking, and is connected by a passage, to the northern end of the eastern aisle of the transept. Its shape is octagonal with seven very beautiful stained windows, the eighth one, being the door of entrance, over which, in former times, the twelve apostles were to be seen, in silver gilt. Henry VIII, it is said, abstracted them at the time of the Reformation. The tombs, were most of them, likewise ornamented with silver effigies, but these were taken by Cromwell, and his followers, the marks [ 311 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND alone, are there, proving the truth of the tale. The Communion service is said to have suffered the same fate, and a copper one to have been substituted in its place. In the chapter house, was an old, and curious inscription in Latin, on a pillar, amounting to this : that the building was " the chief of houses, as the rose was, of flowers." In the South transept, was a window, quite unique and beautiful, of mosaic pat- tern, resembling needle work, sometimes called the " five sisters," from an impression which prevails, that five maiden sisters first embroidered the pattern, each one a window, and this being presented to the church, it was afterward imitated in stained glass, in the manner now seen. In the crypt are the remains of the Norman architecture, once the foundation of a former cathedral, on the spot, which was burnt. Beneath this Norman architecture, within the last six years, among stones and rubbish, have been dis- covered some Saxon pillars, about six feet high, of a style of architecture precisely like that of Durham ; also, in another spot, was found, the remains of a Roman wall, of the "herring-bone style," which the Romans were known to have built ; and also, a Dru- idical altar in entire preservation, thus corroborating the tradition, handed down to posterity, that the [ 312 ] DONCASTEB Romans built their church, upon the site of a Pagan altar. These discoveries have excited much attention, and speculation. Mr. Webster returned from "the Palace " at one o'clock, after a most agreeable, and delightful visit, bringing the kind regrets of the old Archbishop, and his two Daughters at our necessary absence. At one o'clock, notwithstanding the rain, which was profuse, we drove to this place, where we remain to-night. Here, on Monday, are to be some famous races, and we are urged to remain, but of course this is impos- sible. In this country they race on the turf, and never on the ground itself, as we do. Doncaster is on the river Don, the derivation is doubtless, Don- caster, " the camp on the river Don," caster mean- ing in Latin, " camp." Lancaster and aU names with a similar termination, having a similar derivation. . September 12. Matlock, Derbyshire. We took our departure at seven o'clock this morning from Doncaster, and drove 14 miles to Rotherham. When within a mile of the place we discovered a breakage to the spring of our carriage; there being no coach- maker in the town, we were obliged to proceed six miles more, to Sheffield. In order to lighten our vehicle as much as possible, Mr. and Mrs. Webster [ 313 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND followed, in a hired post-chaise. At Sheffield, we breakfasted, and discovering that the repairing of our accident, would occupy some hours, concluded to visit the manufactory of Rodgers & Sons. From some friend in New York, Mr. Webster had brought letters of introduction, enabling us to see, with greater facility and advantage, this extensive, and interesting establishment. The " Show-room " con- tained very beautiful specimens of cutlery, silver and plated-ware, pen-knives, with myriads of blades, and other similar, and curious implements, in glass cases, and turned on pivots, for better inspection. The plated, and silver-ware, was arranged around the room, as in shops, the articles being for sale, or orders received. Mr. Rodgers remarked, in reply to some enquiries, that very little, if any, of the real Sheffield plate, found its way to America ; that it was Birmingham almost entirely, and owing to its greater cheapness, it there found a better market. The whole process of making the plate, was after- ward explained, and the difference shown, between the two kinds. The foundation is copper upon which the silver is rolled, through the pressure of cylin- ders, causing it to adhere with such tenacity, that it never peels from it ; the articles are then made and [ 314 ] SHEFFIELD PLATE AND CUTLERY stamped from this material, and polished for use by means of steel instruments rubbed in soap and water. The Birmingham plate is first stamped out of the copper and the silver plating added, after the uten- sil is made, of course, the former process, must be the most enduring, and this constitutes the differ- ence, between the two kinds of plated-ware. Women were occupied in polishing the plate, in the same manner, and with apparently the same steel instru- ments, that we saw in the china manufactory, at Worcester. Mr. Rodgers remarked, that none but fe- males, could succeed in polishing at all; the silver was undergoing that process by friction, with the palm of the hand and the ronge powder, the hands belonged to old women too ! The skin of the female hand it seems, answers a better purpose, than that of any other known animal. We entered the room where the ivory handles, for the knives are made, and likewise, the different apartments where the steel is tempered, polished, and the blades sharp- ened. In other rooms, were to be seen plated articles undergoing the various processes of soldering, frost- ing, engraving, and stamping. The visit was very satisfactory, and interesting, and Mr. Rodgers most civil, and obliging. [ 315 ] DANIEL WEBSTEK IN ENGLAND " Wentworth Hall " the seat of the Earl of Fitz- william, father-in-law of Yiscountess Milton, is very near to Kotherham, as is " Wortley Hall " belong- ing to the Baron Wharncliffe. When in London, Mr. "Webster had promised, both their obliging owners, that he would visit them, but the extreme haste with which we must now travel, forbids our following our natural inclinations, on this head. We regret the latter place the more, as Lord Wharn- cliffe, when he came to see us, in London, and to urge Mr. Webster to bring all our party to him during this month, mentioned that his son, Mr. Stuart- Wortley, and his wife, the Lady Georgiana, would also be with them, at this time. Sixteen miles from Sheffield is " Chats worth House," the splendid seat of the Duke of Devon- shire. 1 Among my dreams of childhood, was the hope of one day, seeing this celebrated spot, but the reality far exceeded my expectations ! Crossing a bridge of stone, over the river Derwent, and entering a fine arched gateway, we saw the house before us, resem- bling, it is said, in style, the Continental palaces. A noble terrace extends the whole length of the build- ' William George Spencer Cavendish, 6th Duke of DeTonshire, 1790-1858 ; bibliophile and collector of coins. [ 316 ] CHATSWORTH HOUSE ing, with gardens extending down to the river, these are adorned with cascades, jets d'eau, and fine statu- ary, forming altogether, a scene, not easily to be effaced from the memory. The Duke, being now at Chatsworth, we saw but the state apartments ; they are celebrated for their oak carvings of game, and animals, most exquisitely wrought. The pictures in the gallery, although not numerous, were of the choicest description. Likewise a gallety of ancient drawings, was very attractive. The coronation chairs of William IV, and George III, are exhibited in the state apartments. The most splendid room of all, is the " gallery of statuary," containing some of the most exquisite specimens of the art, in Great Britain. This room communicates, with a dining-room, into which, we but 'pe.epeA, as the table was there spread. Its furniture appeared to be of the most splendid description. The Duke himself, entered the gallery of sculpture, while we were still there, which has- tened our departure from it. In consequence of his Grace's absence on the Continent (from which he has just returned), Mr. "Webster had not the pleas- ure of making his acquaintance, during our visit in London, although, from Lord Morpeth, and other members of his family, we had received distinguished [ 317 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND civilities. He has hair, inclined to red, is about 48 years of age, and although not so stout, resembles otherwise, in personal appearance, Colonel Preston i of our Senate. It would be useless, were I to make an attempt to describe the statuary of this apart- ment ; I was however, much struck with a " Bac- chante," a most exquisite thing, a female figure springing, "Petrarch's Laura," and the "Mother of Napoleon " by Cauova ; the remembrance of these, among so many other attractive objects, is still fresh in my mind. Copies of two colossal lions, by Ca- nova, are on each side of a doorway, communicating with a spacious, and choice conservatory, on the cor- responding side, with the before-mentioned dining- room. This conservatory opens upon the fairy-like grounds with their fountains, and varieties of water- works, with a noble park beyond ; altogether a scene of stateliness, and grandeur, difficult to describe properly. In the Chapel for family worship, was a gallery for the Duke, below, on the ground-floor, were chairs, for the upper servants. The ceilings were handsomely frescoed, and the walls richly carved in oak. The entrance hall of Chatsworth, is spacious, and lofty ; the floor of mosaic marble. One 1 William C. Preston, Senator from South Carolina. [ 318 ] CHATSWORTH HOUSE portion still undergoing the process of alteration, was quite filled, with cases of various sizes, and de- scriptions, containing the recent purchases of his Grace abroad, viz : antiquities, marbles, statues, and various other articles of vertu. A conservatory is now projecting, it is said, of such size, and height, as to admit the passage of a carriage and four, through its centre! Altogether, including the grounds, this noble domain even exceeds " royal Windsor," and its private apartments. I have omitted to speak of the park, which corresponds with the rest, in size, and magnificence. It is fifteen miles in extent, and is said to contain five thousand deer, of all varieties and ages. We noticed many of the red species, with large and splendid antlers, but the spotted, or fallow deer, appear to be, in all parks, the most numerous. The Duke's pecuHar historyi ^ William Cavendish, 5th Dake of Devonshire, married, first, 1774, Georgiana Spencer, 1757-1806, daughter of John, 1st Earl Spencer ; he married, secondly, Elizabeth, widow of John Thomas Foster, and daughter of Frederick Augustus Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol. This latter, as Lady Elizabeth Foster, had long been the object of the Duke's avowed attachment, and it was said that she (and not the Duke's then wife) was, in 1790, the mother (exchange being made of two infants of different sexes) of his successor, Wil- liam George Spencer Cavendish. This latter was so proud of the name of Cavendish that he refused to marry and have issue, if there was any doubt as to his legitimacy. [ 319 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND is too well known, to make it necessary, for me to repeat it here ; but I could not forget, that all the treasures of this lordly mansion, were after all, prob- ably not legally his; he is said however to possess great good taste, liberality, and a great interest in the welfare, and prosperity of his tenantry, but do- mestic happiness with a wife, he is forbidden to enjoy, although the possessor of " the finest thing in the world." Next to Chatsworth, " Belvoir Castle " is thought to be the " finest thing " for a stranger to see. ■ A drive of sixteen miles, brought us to this ro- mantic and beautiful spot (i.e. Matlock) ; the scenery is enchanting, the river Derwent meanders through a most romantic dale, skirted by high and lofty rocks, covered with wood, and verdure; the formation of these rocks reminds me of the Palisades of our North River ; the effect is as grand, and even as sublime, as anything of the kind, I have seen. I regret that we cannot remain here to-morrow, visit some of the mines, and make ourselves better acquainted with so interesting a spot. There are baths here likewise, of some celebrity. Mr. Appleton left us at Sheffield, to meet again in London a week hence, soon after which, his marriage with Julia will take place, at St. [ 320 ] MATLOCK George's, Hanover Square, as privately as can be, under the circumstances. We leave here to-morrow morning for Leicester, where we hope to find our letters from America ; from thence, we go seven miles further, to " Wistow Hall," on a short visit, to Sir Henry Halford, who with his niece, will accompany us, on our long talked of visit, to Belvoir Castle, the seat of the Duke of Eutland.i Saturday morning, September 14. Wistow Hall, at Sir Henry Halford's. We rose with the sun yes- terday morning at Matlock, in order to enjoy all that was possible in so short a time, of the beauties of its vicinity. At many houses, as well as at several shops, are great varieties of rich articles made from the Derbyshire spar for sale, from a mosaic paper weight to an inlaid table slab. Vases and " Cleopar tra's needles " of all sizes, and values. Articles made of the choicest materials are however, very difficult, safely to transport ; some of our smaller purchases, having already proved this fact. The petrifying springs are objects of curiosity, where common arti- cles, such as hats, gloves, or even a hair wig, vwll, after having remained about ten months in the spring » John Henry Manners, 5tli Duke of Rutland, 1778-1857 . C 321 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND water, become, by the constant dripping, and peculiar quality of tbeir waters, petrified like stone, and equally heavy, but preserving otherwise, their shape and form. In one spring, we saw a pair of gloves be- longing to the Duchess of Portdale [sic], undergoing the process of petrifaction ; likewise a hair wig alreadj very heavy, and petrified, from which the guide said, the present Queen had drunk ! We drove through a rich, and beautiful country to Leicester. On reach- ing the " Three Crown Inn " the two nieces of Sir Henry, one of them his daughter-in-law i (having married her cousin), arrived in their chariot, at the door, " just out of church," as they told us, after an " Infirmary sermon," invariably preached, on the day following the races. The Duke, and Sir Henry were at the time, engaged, in examining " county records and accounts." His Grace, had been at " Wistow " during the races, in expectation of meeting our party there. We had been anxiously looked for. Miss Vaughan said, for three days past. Had not the un- foreseen accident to our carriage spring occurred, we should have reached Leicester yesterday, in season for the last day of the races, and for the ball, at its 1 Barbara Vanghan, daughter of Sir John ; married, 1824, Sir Henry Half ord, 2d Baronet. [ 322 ] WISTOW HALIi close, where all the nobility and gentry of the neigh- bouring counties, were assembled. After a short interval, the Duke, and Sir Henry appeared, greeting us all very kindly. The Duke had only come to say, that he should depend on seeing us all, at the Castle with Sir Henry on Monday next. He was hastening now to " Belvoir," thirty miles, to dinner, where he had not been before for the space of ten months I We followed Sir Henry, his daughter, and niece, through the continued rain, for the space of an hour, when we reached " Wistow," an extremely pretty place, with a small lake, near the house, fine old trees, with a park, in which some specimens of the famous Leicester sheep, were browsing. Sir Henry inherited this estate from his Uncle, changing his name, from that of Vaughan in conse- quence, and taking the title, with the estates. He is brother to Sir Charles Vaughan, the late H.B.M. Minister at Washington, and also, to Baron Vaughan, my Uncle Story's friend, and coi'respondent. It is a fine, spacious old house, with a large entrance hall, containing a billiard-room and a valuable organ on one side. The Library seems to be the favorite sitting room, and is a pleasant, oblong apartment full of liter- [ 323 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND ary treasures. Lady i and Sir William Heygate,^ and a Mr. Dawson, high sheriff of the county, arrived soon after ourselves yesterday, at dinner, but they have left again this morning. The bed-room appropriated for my accommodation, and from which I am now writing, was occupied by King Charles I before the battle of Naseby. On the morning of that memorable and unfortunate day, he left at thehouse, his red velvet saddle, trappings, spurs, sword, guns, and other accou- trements; as he never returned there, these relics have remained in the family ; they are now in a glass case, behind two statues of " Venus and Paris," in another hall, communicating with the library, the dining- room and the drawing-room. Sir Henry is a physi- cian of the highest eminence, the author of several medical works, and was knighted by King George III, he was that Monarch's physician, as well as George IV's, William IV's, and to " all the Royal family." At present he is but a consulting physician, and spends a large portion of his time, at " Wistow." He had just received a letter from the Duchess of Gloucester, consulting him on the subject of her * Isabella Mackmurdo, daughter of Edward Longdon ; married, 1821, Sir William Heygate. 2 Sir William Heygate, Baronet, 1782-1844. [ 324 ] WISTOW IIALIi health ; it expressed friendship for him, and confi- dence in his skill. He says, the Duchess now, has the first indications of a disease, of which the Duke of York, the Queen, and George III, died. Sir Henry is here surrounded, with relics of royalty, and with the most bountiful proofs of royal munificence, attach- ment, and gratitude. The silver centre-piece of the dinner table yesterday, as well as a superb shield, on the side-board, were gifts from Queen Charlotte to our host. A colossal sized, silver pitcher, richly chased, he has recently received from her Majesty the Queen Dowager. Miss Vaughan told us, that the superb golden tea and coffee service, on the breakfast table this morning, was also another valuable offering to Sir Henry from Queen Charlotte. ^ We afterwards saw a beautiful silver vase, from the Princess Sophia,^ and a golden spy-glass from the Duchess of Glouces- ter, given to her physician, immediately after the death of the Duke.' Then the tables of the drawing- room, are covered with golden boxes, and golden ink- stands, candle-sticks, tapers, and paper-knives, of the same precious metal ; these were gifts from different ' Sophia Charlotte, daaghter of Charles Frederick, Duke of Mecklenburg-Strelitz ; married, 1761, George III; died, 1818. '^ Princess Sophia, 1777-1848, daughter of George III. 8 WiUiam Frederick, Duke of Gloucester, 1776-1834. [ 325 ] DANIEIj WEBSTER IN ENGLAND " high personages," to Sir Henry "for his consum- mate skill, during long and painful illnesses." In this same room is a glass case, under lock and key, resting on a side-table ; it is filled with numerous interest- ing relics, viz : the hair of Princess Amelia, i and of Edward, the son of Henry IV, when three years old. Likewise, a lock of the hair of Charles I. These are all preserved between two glasses. There were in addition, seals, gold pencil cases, boxes, medals, purses, "ad infinitum," beside a very long string of finger-rings, perhaps some forty or fifty, given by the family of deceased patients, at different times to Sir Henry ; many of these, possessed great intrinsic value, and were of cameos, intaglios, and enamel, and pre- cious stones. By far, the most interesting relic, however, I have yet to name. In the year 1813, Sir Henry HaKord opened the vault of King Henry VIII and of Anne Boleyn, in the presence of the Prince Regent after- ward George IV, in order to ascertain what was, at that period, a subject of great doubt, whether the body of the unfortunate King Charles I was there interred, or elsewhere. He was, however, known to have been buried at Saint George's at Windsor, but 1 Princess Amelia, 1783-1810, daughter of George III. [ 326 ] FINDING OF KINO CHARLES'S HKAD the place of his interment when searched for, some years afterward, could not be found. It was discov- ered in a separate small vault, hitherto escaping ob- servation. The coffin was covered with a black velvet pall, a piece of which, Sir Henry exhibited to us, it being now, one hundred and ninety years since it was placed there ! On the top of the leaden coffin was satisfactorily discovered the following simple in- scription : " King Charles 1649." An opening was made through the lead and into the inner coffin, ex- hibiting the face, and head, covered with cerecloth, and separated from the body, just as Lord Claren- don in his works had described. One eye (Sir Henry told us), was open, but after a few moments exposure to the air, it closed. The cartilage of the nose was nearly gone, but the rest of the face, and features were so perfect, and so exactly according to Van Dyck, and other portraits of the unfortunate Monarch, that a doubt of his identity could not exist, for a moment, in the minds of any one present. On lifting up the head a piece of the vertebrae, the actual bone of the neck, through which the executioner's sharp instru- ment had passed, fell off, and was secured by Sir Henry. He showed it to us this morning, and like- wise a mass of lint, carefully enclosed in papers, that [ 327 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND he had used, to absorb the Mood, that freely fell during this process ! The preservation was very re- markable, and the embalming most faithfully and thoroughly performed. Among Sir Henry's auto- graphs,* we read letters from several members of the Eoyal family to each other, letters from the Princess Amelia, and the Princess Mary, and from King George III, a few days only, before his death. Very many letters from the Royal family to Sir Henry himself, full of kindness, and confidence, but they were too numerous to particularize. In the Library, stands a very splendid clock of solid gold, in shape resembling a sort of shrine, sur- mounted with a bust of George IV, the drapery of which is set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. This was given to Sir Henry, by the united members of the Royal Family, having all their names, crests and initials below, with the date, &c., attached. In short, the house abounds with objects of interest, and Sir Henry takes pride and pleasure in gratifying his friends, with the exhibition of them. Our host is remarkably fond of his Whist, and the game was kept up, with spirit last evening. How * We also saw an autograph of Milton, he was blind at 44 years of age. (H. S. P.) [ 328 ] KANGAROOS AND AVIARY AT WISTOW much I wished for my dear Husband's presence, and assistance ! Sir Henry is no mean antagonist, and I regretted he had not a better partner than myself. We had some country neighbours at dinner, a Mr. and Mrs. and Miss King. Sunday, September 15. Wistow. We have been to church this morning in the chapel, belonging to the estate, and listened to an excellent sermon, with much satisfaction, from the Rev'd. Mr. Keppel. Afterward, on our return, the weather being less " pluvious," we walked with Miss Vaughan over the grounds, into the flower garden, conservatory, and aviary, and likewise visited the Kangaroos, the larg- est I ever saw ; they were merrily hopping, on their hind legs, in their pecidiar way, and seem to be a favorite animal on all gentlemen's estates here. They have a portion of the grounds properly fenced for their accommodation, and they become quite tame after a time. There were two black swans on the lake ; these are rare, and costly birds, and seen by us, nowhere else, but at Hopetoun House. We were then told, that a pair of these birds, cost forty guineas in London ! There were also various other aquatic birds ; varieties of geese, and a pair of widg- eons, were enjoying a special little pond, fenced in, [ 329 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND for their accommodation. Sir Henry's i son is a mem- ber of parliament ; he with Mrs. Halford and family, live a half a mile distant, and dine daily with Sir Henry. She is a very pretty woman, was married at seventeen, and has a daughter fourteen years of age, who looks as old as her mother. Sir Henry's suite of apartments on one side of the house, consists of a handsome long dining-room with a large bay window, two drawing-rooms, and two smaller rooms beyond " en suite," the last, opens into a very fine, lofty conservatory, and this again, into a long and beautiful aviary, where there are gold and silver pheasants, and other choice birds. There are also fine " pineries " and " peacheries " ; the atmosphere of the former, is excessively hot, and the fruit very fine ; the peaches are generally inferior to ours in point oi flavour, but in size, and beauty, they are often superior. Miss Vaughan is not at all hand- some, but she is intelligent, and interesting, and is constantly exerting herself, for our comfort and amusement. Sunday Evening. Sir Henry is a devout, and good man. At nine o'clock, he assembled his servants, six- teen in number, including our own two, in his li- 1 Sir Henry Halford, 2d Baronet, 1797-1868. [ 330 ] FAMILY WORSHIP brary, according to his usual custom ; he then knelt and read aloud the evening service, after which he finished with a sermon from Bishop Horsley ; the servants then retired, and our very satisfactory, and agreeable evening, closed with music, on the organ, played by " Miss Lizzie," i the eldest granddaughter. They have now left the house, and we have just re- tired to our rooms. The Duke of Rutland, I learn, has the same practise of family worship, with his servants, excepting when the Castle is filled with guests, then, he has both evening, and morning serv- ice in the chapel. Our post-horses are ordered at twelve for our drive to Bel voir to-morrow, which is thirty-five, to forty miles distant. "Wednesday, September 18, 1839. Belvoir Castle. I find myself so much charmed with all I have seen here, so much magnificence and novel splendour, that in wishing to recount all, for the benefit of those I love, at home, I fear I shall forget every- thing ! Since my arrival here I have not had a mo- ment, up to this time, to "journalize." I have just returned from a drive, over the Duke's extensive estates, having never, during the time, been over any ground but his ! Although not the proper season of 1 Elizabeth Barbara Halford, daughter of Sir Henry, 2d Baronet. [ 331 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND the year for a Fox hunt, the Duke kindly ordered out the hounds, at ten o'clock, and we have been following in carriages, while the gentlemen, five or six in number, were eagerly pursuing the chase. Mr. Webster came near bringing home " the brush," but the poor fox "took to the ground," and he was disappointed. The whole scene was novel and excit- ing ; the hounds were one hundred and forty in number, each one, being as well known to the keep- ers, and answering to its name, obeying orders when given, as if it were endowed with reason and sense, as well as sagacity. Indeed I have been told that the " Belvoir " (pronounced Beaver) hounds hold a very '' high position " among the hunting establishments of England. They are of ancient pedigree, and are said to trace their origin to the year 1760. During thirteen weeks of a former hunting season, it ap- peared by the " Cook's books," " that upward of thir- teen thousand persons had dined under his Grace's roof at Belvoir Castle " ! The red dresses of the keepers, the beauty of the animals, and the pictur- esque landscape added to the novelty of the scene, made it one of the highest possible interest and ex- citement to me, and one that I shall never forget, but I must be less " discoursive," and endeavor to [ 332 ] BELVOIR CASTLE give some description of this lordly castle, and its interesting inmates. Mr. Webster drove hither in Sir Henry's chariot, Miss Vaughan taking Mr. Webster's vacant seat in ours. On our arrival we were shown at once to our apartments, and did not see the Duke or any of the inmates, but the serv- ants, until our toilettes were made, when the Chap- lain, the Rev'd. Mr. Thorreton, appeared at our doors, and announcing that dinner would soon be served, offered to show us the way to the dining- room, which I will shortly describe. After a prom- enade of at least ten minutes through various halls and galleries, we were ushered into a drawing-room contiguous to the dining-room, where we found the Duke, who received us with great kindness and cor- diality. Soon after, the Lady Adeliza Manners,' the only unmarried daughter entered, accompanied by another lady, now a companion, and formerly governess to the children of his Grace. There were no introductions on either side, and had not Miss Vaughan been present, we should have been much puzzled to have ascertained who the two ladies were. The Lady Adeliza appeared to be extremely diffident, ' Adeliza Elizabeth Gertrude Manners, daughter of John Henry, 5th Duke of Rutland. [ 333 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND and to make great efforts, so far to conquer her tim- idity, as to seat herself beside Mrs. Webster, and to enter into conversation. All this however, soon passed away, and we found her a most charming, and lady-like person, and, I really think, she appears to like us all, as well as we like her. Dinner was soon announced. The Duke handed in Mrs. Web- ster, placing her on his right, Lord George Man- ners,! the third son, and only one at home, at pres- ent, handed me, placing me on the left of his Grace. The Lady Adeliza was taken by Mr. Webster, and Julia by Mr. Thorreton, while to Edward's lot fell the governess. Miss Gooding. The dining-saloon is a very large and beautiful apartment, with immense mirrors at either end, increasing also its size, be- neath which, are sideboards, covered with magnifi- cent plate of gold and silver. The room has arches of white marble, where usually one sees woodwork, and it contains some very fine pictures. AU the or- naments of the table were of gold (or silver gilt) ; the centre piece or epergne was four feet high, sur- rounded by gold candelabra, very striking and mag- nificent. Indeed to my unpractised eye, the display of both silver and gold plate, is almost marvellous. ! George John Maimers, 1820-74. [ 334 ] THE DINING-ROOM AT BELVOIR On a table, inlaid with precious stones, and covered with what appeared to he a dazzling white damask cloth, was a silver cistern or oval punch bowl, holding about twenty gallons. This belonged to the Earl of Rutland, the ancestor of the present Duke ; he paid £600 for it. The Duke remarked, as we were admir- ing its beauty and size, that his Steward had the curi- osity recently to reckon the interest upon the original sum, up to the present moment, and that it amounted to two or three million pounds sterling ! On being requested to raise the white table cover before al- luded to, we attempted to do so, and found it a beautifid deception, carved out of the purest mar- ble ! Yesterday the table service was of solid silver, composed of many vases, richly frosted, with designs of marine shells, and aquatic plants. The saltcellars also, were composed of shells, and sea figures of frosted silver. At the time of the Christmas holi- days the castle is usually filled with guests. To-day, however, there are a few arrivals. Lady Caroline Norman, with her husband, and her single daughter and two sons, and Mr. Keppel the clergyman, have appeared. Sir Henry and Miss Vaughan, having a dinner engagement at Mr. King's, were obliged to leave, and to our regret, have just gone. [ 335 ] DANIEL, WEBSTER IN ENGLAND " Belvoir " is built on a high elevation, and com- mands a large extent of country. It overlooks five villages, the property of the Duke ; in these, he vdU not permit a single frame (i.e. of stockings), be- cause he believes, that a manufacturing village is less prosperous, and moral, than an agricultural one. The castle is very feudal-like, it is built of a yellow stone, quarried near by, and in its position, resembles Windsor; the latter however, overlooks the town of Windsor, while Belvoir, has the advantage of a more picturesque country, for its surroundings. The interior is very spacious, and the castle itself more so, than any other, we have seen. Our bed-rooms are a suite, in the "Egyptian gallery"; it has re- quired several promenades, to familiarize ourselves with the intricacies of the various passages, leading to the distant breakfast-room, and pleasant sitting- parlour, where we assemble after breakfast is over. The entrance haU of the castle is adorned with full sized figures in gold, and steel armour, and the floor is of marble, in black and white mosaic. Since writing the above, we have been over the very numerous apartments of the castle from the state rooms, down to the kitchen, larder, and the Steward's and housekeeper's premises. [ 336 ] THE SALOON AT BELVOIK First " the Saloon," this is very richly furnished ; the ceilings are elaborately gilded, and beautifully frescoed ; portraits of the Duke, the late Duchess, i and their children, are mingled agreeably, with these ornamental decorations. The walls are fluted in satin, and set into it, aU around the room, four or five feet from the floor, are finely painted ivory miniatures of various family connections, both when adults, and as children. At the upper end of this gorgeous apart- ment, were full length portraits of the Duke and his Duchess, set in gilt frames, and resting on the floor like " cheval" or "Psyche " glasses ; the former, was represented in his robes of state. The Duchess was very celebrated for her beauty, she died very sud- denly at Belvoir, fourteen years ago. Miss Gooding, the governess, who occupied with myself one of the carriages at the Fox hunt, took the opportunity to give me, a long, and interesting account, of the dif- ferent members of the family, and of the melancholy death of her Grace. The Marquis of Granby,^ the eldest son, is evidently the favorite in this case ; he 1 Elizabeth Howard, daughter of Frederick, 5th Earl of Carlisle ; married, 1799, John Henry Manners, 5th Duke of Rutland ; died, 1825. 2 Charles CecU John Manners, 1815-88, Marquis of Granby, later 6th Duke of Rutland ; strong protectionist. [ 337 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND is now making a tour in Spain. The furniture of the saloon is of white and gold, and the walls are fluted in blue satin, and likewise, the coverings of the fur- niture and curtains are of blue. The mantel-piece was of salmon coloured marble richly sculptured, and on each side, were tables, inlaid with precious stones, representing fruit, &c. The "Picture gallery," has some valuable MurUlos ; and Carlo Dolcis ; one or two beautiful subjects by Teniers ; a portrait of Henry VIII by Holbein, the best painting I have seen, of that artist, I think. In a picture by Mu- riUo, on the birth of our Saviour, was a head of a little boy, so like my little Willie i at home, that I could not draw my eyes away ! There were likewise some fine old Dutch pictures, and I have a very pretty water-coloured painting, done by the Lady Adeliza, copied from one in this gallery, called " Great cry and little wool" (a portion only), representing " Sheep Shearing " ; I shall take it to America among my many valuable mementos. A long gallery in a storey above, 140 feet, is called the " Regent's Gal- lery " ; it is a splendid apartment, and where the breakfast table is laid, when the Castle has many ' James William Paige, 1835-94, son of James William and Harrietts Story (White). [ 338 ] THE REGENT'S GALLERY visitors; it contains some beautiful Gobelin, and many marble busts of distinguished people, and a very interesting one, of the late Duchess, showing her to be possessed of remarkable beauty. In a pleas- ant conversation last evening, upon various supersti- tions, and " beUefs in Ghosts and Goblins," the Lady Adeliza told us, that there were servants, in the house that could not but be persuaded, that at cer- tain periods, " a carriage and four horses, drove at midnight, up and down this long gallery," they had heard the sounds too distinctly, to doubt, that the place was haunted, for a single moment ! They had also declared, that the mailed figures of the great hall, had at the same time, changed places with each other ! ! There is also a long Library, and a drawing- room named the " Green room," beside two smaller drawing-rooms, communicating with the " breakfast- room," and the " luncheon-room " ; this is where we assemble, previous to luncheon, and to breakfast in the morning. On the same floor, is another entire suite, composed of a Saloon, two or three bed-rooms, and dressing-rooms, richly fitted, with every possible luxury, comfort and convenience. The Ball-room is still another fine apartment. In the " Egyptian gal- lery," around the haU, is a large ottoman where the [ 339 ] DANIEIi WEBSTER IN ENGLAND guests sit, after dinner, when the Band plays during the gay season at Belvoir. Last year, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, and the Princess Augusta were here, for some days, and three years ago, the Queen, when Princess Victoria, with her Mother, the Duchess of Kent, paid a visit to Belvoir. There are several pieces of cannon, on the batteries of the castle, that fire a Koyal Salute, on all these great occasions. The kitchen, pastry-cook's room, and aU of the culinary department, was in the nicest and neatest possible order. The starched linen caps, of the cooks, were like snow in whiteness. I observed a separate larder for hares, and rabbits, distinct from the other game, and was told, that these animals taint other game "directly they are put with them." Both lard- ers were circular, with the finest wire window-frames outside, and a covering of thin cotton inside, to ab- sorb the moisture. The dairy was extensive, the cheeses carefully, and neatly arranged in the second storey, and the room ventilated in a peculiar way, to preserve them properly. They used a jack, in the kitchen, with coal, as at Lowther castle. Both the House-keeper's and the Steward's rooms, were very nice, comfortable rooms, and in the former, were [ 340 ] THE GARDENS AT BEL.VOIR cabinets well filled with rich, and beautiful china. The store-room adjoining, was well filled, with jellies, sweetmeats, and a drawer full of " rock candy" of which we partook. The kitchen gardens are well worth seeing, sur- rounded by a wall fourteen feet high. They are about nine acres in extent, and on this wall are towers, of corresponding style with the architecture of the Cas- tle itself. Upon this wall were growing in full per- fection, figs, apricots, peaches, cherries, plums and pears. This garden is at the foot of the hUl, upon which the Castle is built, and through the gateway, between the towers, " is reckoned" as the Lady Ad- eliza said, " one of the finest points of view, of the Castle." The green-house plants were fine, particu- larly the fuchsias, of which there were many choice varieties. Sixteen servants waited at dinner, and again, for the third time, was there a change of all the centre ornaments ! Instead of there being vases of silver, an immense candelabrum of the same, took their place, with smaller ones, on either side, and appropriate devices in silver below. This massive silver central candelabrum was a gift to this fam- Uy, by subscription, from a set of gentlemen, con- nected with some political acts, I think ; I did not [ 341 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND quite comprehend, and will not attempt further to explain, until I do. The Duke owns several other country places ; " Haddon hall " has a great celebrity, and is said to be a very fine old place (but we did not visit it) ; it remains precisely as it was, during the last century; the antique furniture has been carefully preserved, and the deceased Duchess, took a great interest in the place, and it was owing to her, that it has not shared the fate of other antiquities, of its time. The Castle, in Mrs. Radcliffe's " Mys- teries of Udolpho" is said to be a correct description of " Haddon " ; particularly the room, where the arras moves so mysteriously. We simply passed it how- ever, on our way from Chatsworth, in Derbyshire. " Chevely Park " in Cambridgeshire, and " Long- shaw," in Derbyshire, belong also to the Duke, the latter however, is but a hunting box. In a beautifully retired part of the grounds, in a spot chosen by the Duchess for her last resting place, through an avenue of venerable yew trees, stands a stone mausoleum of considerable size, erected by the Duke, to the memory of his wife. It is in admirable taste, and consists of a light, airy, cheerful looking apartment, about forty feet square, with a floor of marble mosaic, and a furnace, for keeping the atmos- [ 342 ] TOMB OF THE DUCHESS OF RUTLAND phere dry, when necessary. At the opposite end of this, is a large circular niche, lighted by \iolet col- oured glass windows from behind. In the centre is a large marble tomb, and hovering above it, is a mar- ble figure in drapery (an exact resemblance of the Duchess), in the act of ascending to heaven. In the clouds above, are the pure spirits of the four little children, already gone before her; with outstretched arms, they appear to be rapturously welcoming her, and the eldest of the group, is in the act of placing an immortal wreath, upon the maternal brow. The drapery of the background is of marble, and the effect of the coloured light, from the windows, upon this very beautiful and touching work of art, is finer, than anything, I have the power to describe. The foUowing effusion, from the pen of Sir Henry HaUord, on visiting this sacred, and lovely spot, was put into my hands, by its estimable author, before breakfast, on the morning of his quitting Belvoir. " Inscription for a Mausoleum " Stranger 1 by curious contemplation led, Who'er thou art this solemn scene to tread, May no compunctious visitings annoy ! No unrepented sins thy peace destroy ! No passing day wound with a Parthian dart, But every hour fresh blessedness impart ; [ 343 ] DANIBL WEBSTBR IN ENGLAND Yet should some vice indulged without control Peril thy future bliss, enthral thy soul Oh ! go not hence, till thou hast sternly vow'd To sin no more, to thy Creator bow'd In contrite sorrow, and His aid implor'd Who died, that sinful man to God might be restored." Mr. Keppel the clergyman has composed some very pretty lines upon the name of " Halford," * which I much admired, and copied, but at this mo- ment I have not possession of them. At an early hour this morning the good man departed, leaving a kind note for me, and the following verses, on the name of our noble host, which " he took the liberty of offering to my acceptance." Of course, I shewed them to the Lady Adeliza, as through me, they were intended for her eyes, and those of his Grace. « Belvoir Castle, September 18, 1839. " Manners, acme Bard has written, make the Man, A truth so true, deny it those who can, * Halford A bard whose great name will dwell on the too^e While memory lives, both of old, and of young, In his Mirth has so tortured a Christian name That 't would stagger a wit, to believe it the same. But if this wild nickname for my first you shall take. And then for my second, a search yon shall make. In the same Bard's gay pages you '11 find it appear In the name of a Lady right merry and fair ; Put these both together, you '11 find very plain, A name standing high in fair Science's train. [ 344 ] THE DUKE'S FAMILY And heuce 't will follow, if this truth we scan, That gentle manners make the gentleman. These both confirm'd, all will admit I trow, Who Noble Manners e'er have chanced to knov." Lord John Manners, i the second son, is with his brother " in the midst of the seat of war " as the Duke remarked. The eldest daughter is the Lady Drujnmond,2 the second, is the Lady Emmeline Stuart-Wortley,' the poetess, the third, is the Lady Jermyn,* the lady Adeliza being the youngest. The Duke and his Daughter, are very musical, the lat- ter is proficient on the piano-forte; Caradori Al- lan was here on a visit, not long since, and they are on intimate terms with Mrs. Arkwright,* whose brother is at this moment erecting a very beautiful mansion, on his lands in this neighborhood ; he has a large fortune, and "on dit" that he wishes to marry the Duke's youngest daughter. Mrs. Ark- > John James Robert Manners, 1818-1906, later 7th Dnke of Rutland ; statesman. " Elizabeth Frederica Manners ; married, 1821, Andrew Robert Dmmmond. 8 Emmeline Charlotte Elizabeth Manners, 1806-55 ; poetess and anthoress; married, 1831, the Honorable Charles Stuart- Wortley. * Katherine Isabella Manners; married, 1830, Frederick Wil- liam Hervey, Earl Jermyn, later 2d Marquis of Bristol. She died in 1848. * Mrs. Robert Arkwright ; musical composer ; died, 1849. [ 345 ] DANIEL W^EBSTEB IN ENGIiAND Wright has composed some of the best English songs now in vogue, and is said withal, to be a very ami- able, and clever woman. In the Chapel at Belvoir, is a fine " Holy Family " by Murillo, over the altar; the interior is of stone like that of the Castle itself. The ground floor is reserved for the servants of the family, while the gallery, at one end above, is appropriated to the Duke's family, as is the case with the royal chapel, both in London, and at Windsor. Miss Vaughan had often visited Belvoir before, and had likewise been at many other distinguished country houses. She described to us the splendours she saw at " Woburn Abbey," the seat of the Duke of Bedford,! in the county of Bedford. In her bed- room the toilette cover was of the most delicate white muslin richly embroidered, lined with pink satin, and trimmed with superb Valenciennes lace; the counterpane was of the same material, trimmed with the same. The delicate linen sheets, and linen cambric pillow cases, were also fuU trimmed with lace. The utensils for lavation were very superb, and the whole furniture of corresponding elegance. Her maid's room was furnished with a sofa, " lolling 1 John RuBsell, 1766-1839, 6th Duke of Bedford. [ 346 ] AN AMUSING INOIDBNT chair" &c., covered with handsome chintz; the house-maid came to awake her in the morning, to make her fire, and bring warm water &c., before she herself went to awake and dress her mistress! Miss Vaughan also related an amusing incident hap- pening to her Sister's maid during hers and Sir Henry Halford's visit at Belvoir, while the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria were also there. Mrs. Halford on retiring for the night, found her maid in tears, and in great trouble. On enquiring into the cause of her grief, she learned that the poor girl had dressed herself as usual, in her clean lace cap, chintz gown and mushn coUar, and on be- ing summoned to dinner, descended to the Servants' haU. On entering, she started back, in great trepi- dation, for from the scene there presented, she pre- sumed, she had entered by mistake, the apartment where the Duke and his guests were. They were the upper servants, but instead of their usual costume, their hair was full dressed, and they were in short sleeves ; many of them, in silk and satin gowns, gold chains, and watches ! This extra toilette was in com- pliment to the maids, and the "dressers," of the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria. These people, servant^like, treated Mrs. Halford's unfor- [ 347 ] DANIEIj WEBSTER IN ENGLAND tunate maid with so much contempt, in her humble daily dress, that she left their presence, and took refuge in her mistress' apartments, where she found her, in the state, I have alluded to. Miss Vaughan however added, that some of the maids of the Duchess of Kent, being German, and Mrs. Halford's maid, being one of the same nation, they became afterward, very good friends, and the slighted lady's maid was in the end, consoled for their previous neglect. The stud of the Duke of Rutland is said to be very fine. He owns one hunter, a remarkably beau- tiful and powerful animal, for which he paid, five hundred guineas. ■ ii Next week, there is to be a " bazaar " near Belvoir, for the benefit of the poor, "under the patronage of the Lady Adeliza, and Lady Caroline Norman," Lady Adeliza is embroidering a velvet smoking cap, with gold cord, and all the ladies of the family are similarly employed, in the manfacturing of vari- ous pretty, and tasteful articles for the occasion. The lady's maid brought to the Lady Adeliza's " sanctum," this morning, while we were there, in- specting those already prepared, a tray, covered with various woolen articles, very nicely and prettily knit [ 348 ] LEAVING BELVOIR by some of the Duke's dependants, in the village, and offered them to the Lady Adeliza for the bazaar. In anticipation of this sale, Mrs. Webster and myself, have made some purchases ; among them, is a very handsome " indispensable " of embroidered worsted and gold, quite a novelty in its way, which I shall take with me " to my ain hame," as a " token," for some of its dear inmates. To-morrow morning at an early hour, we are to leave Belvoir and all its attractions. I have been the Duke's partner at a game of whist, and suc- ceeded with his Grace's accomplished playing, in beating Mr. Webster, and the Lady Caroline Nor- man, our adversaries. We have already taken our leave, before retiring to our apartments for the night. The Duke and his Daughter were so kind, as to ex- press great regret, at our leaving, and urged a longer stay, but we have many reasons for wishing to be in London immediately, and although we are now 120 miles distant, we hope to reach there by six, to- morrow evening. Thursday, September 20. London. We passed through Melton Mowbray, the great fox-hunting country, on our return from Belvoir on Tuesday eve- ning, and likewise remarked a very pretty hunting [ 349 ] DANIEL WEBSTER IN ENGLAND box, the property of Lord Wilton/ the son of the Marquis of Westminster. We were much amused at the sight of a " horse fair " at Waltham, and met hundreds of these animals, on their way to the bus- tling scene. At the " Rugby Station," we met " the rail," and putting our carriage on the train, we soon came in sight of this glorious city, with all its appen- dages of smoke and dirt, and all its associations of gayety, life, and enjoyment. London is very quiet, and forms a striking contrast to the extreme gayety of last July and August. Julia and Mr. Appleton are to be married on Tuesday morning, at half past eleven o'clock at St. George's, Hanover Square ; the Dean of Carlisle 2 is absent from town, and the ceremony will therefore be performed by the Rev'd. Philip Scofield. Invita- tions to be present, have been issued to about thirty friends. After the ceremony, and the dejeuner, the happy pair will leave, on a visit of a few days, for Cambridge, and return to town on Wednesday to meet a party of friends at a late dinner. The bride I Thomas Egerton, 2d Earl of Wilton, 1799-1882 ; assumed the name of Egerton in 1821 in lien of that of Groayenor. He was the second son of the Marquis of Westminster. ■■' Robert Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle. [ 350 ] INVITATION TO EDGE WORTHSTO WN insists on my taking the third seat in " the carriage and four," and of course, I cannot refuse to do so. On the following Sunday (we regret the day, but it is unavoidable), we are to embark for the Conti- nent, at the " Tower Stairs," in the Antwerp Steamer. We go up the Rhine, visit Switzerland, and at Ge- neva we are to leave Edward in the care of Mons. Bort, for the space of nine months ; from thence we go to Paris, where Mr. Webster promises to meet us, as we are to leave him at present in England. Mr. Webster has received last night, a very flatter- ing, as well as kind letter, from Miss Maria Edge- worth. She urges him in the strongest manner, to come to visit her at Edgeworthstown, assuring him that " his talents are well known and appreciated there, and that she should be greatly flattered, to be allowed the pleasure of welcoming him to Ireland." I need not say, what a gratification this would be to all, but we shall not have the time to go over to Ireland. Indeed Mr. Webster begins to fear, that Congress will have assembled many weeks, before he will be enabled to take his seat again in the American Senate at Washington. INDEX INDEX Abbotsford, 284-289. Abbott, Rev. Jacob, books, 75, and note. Aberdour, Lord, 277, and note. Abinger, Baron, 59, and note, 149, note. Achray, Loch, 262. Acland, Sir Thomas Dyke, 66, and note, 126, 160. Adelaide, Queen, 55, and note, 166; benevolence, 103. Ailesbury, Countess of, 178, and note. Ailesbury, Earl of, 178, note. Alcester, 181. Alderson, Sir Edward Hall, 80, and note : dinner with, 80-81. Alderson, James, 83, note. Alderson, Lady, 80. Alexander, Mr., 93. Alexander, James, 59, vjite. Alford, Viscount, 296, and note. Allan, Caradori, 345. Allen, Mr., 164. Ahnacks, ball at, 107-108. Aln Bridge, 296. Amelia, Princess, 326, and note. Amory, Mrs., 45. Anglesey, Marquis of, S3, note; description of, 35, and note. Appleton, Samuel Appleton, 3, note, 208, 209, and note, 216, 218, 243, 247, 299, 320, 350. Apsley House, 152-157; concert at, 164-166. Archibald, George, 24, 63. Archibald, Mrs. George, 24, 63. Ardcheanochrochan, 257, 262. Argout, Comte d', 146, and note. Arkwright, Mrs. Robert, 345, and Twte. Armstrong, Mr., 158, 162. Arran, Earl of, 69, note. Ashburton, Baron, 22, 23, and note, 149, note. Ashburton, Baroness, 149, and note. Ashley, Lady, description of, 102, aTid note. Ashley, Lord, 131, 176; descrip- tion of, 102, and note. Augusta, Princess, 31, and note, 104, 144, 158, 176, 340. Aust, 187. Austin, Miss, 88; description of, 84. Austin, Charles, 39, and note. Austin, John, 84, and note, 150, 151. Austin, Mrs. John, 58, 88, 167; description of, 84, and note. Ayr, 245. Babbage, Charles, 11, and note, 25, 54; luncheon with, 12. Baden, Grand Duke of, 48, note. Baden, Princess Mary of, 48, note. Bagot, Baron, 151, and note. Bagot, Sir Charles, 37, and note, 77, 166. Bagot, Lady, 37, and note, 151, 166. Barberini Vase, description of, 20. Barclay, William Anthony, 7. Bardell v. Pickwick, 65, note. Baring, Miss, 54. [ 355 ] INDEX Baring, Lady Harriet, 91, and note. Baring, Sir Thomas, 54, and note. Baring, William Bingham, 22, and note, 91, n.ote. Bates, J. Douglas, 170. Bates, Mrs. J. Douglas, 170. Bates, Joshua, 9, and note, 17, 21, 24, 27, 53, 55. Bates, Mrs. Joshua, 9, and note, 17, 21, 24, 40, 53, 65, 74, 98, 150, 160, 166, 169; concert postponed, 68, 82 ; concert, 90. Bates, William Rufus Gray, 169, ajid note. Bath, 187-189. Beaconsfield, 118. Beauchamp, Countess, 147, and note. Beauchamp, Earl, 147, n^te. Beaufort, Duke of, 140, note, 144, note, 194. Beaumaris, 203, 205. Beaumont, Mrs., 67, 150. Beckett, Lady Anne, 91, 148, OTwi Twte, 221. Beckett, Henry, 220, note, 221. Beckett, Sir John, 148, note, 221, and note. Beckf ord, William, 172, and note, 243, note. Bede, Venerable, 298, 300. Bedford, Duke of, 346, and twte. Belfast, Lord, 179, and note. Belhaven and Stenton, Baron, 170, note. Belhaven and Stenton, Baron- ess, 170, and note. Belvoir Castle, 331-349. Bentinck, Lady Frederick Cav- endish, 148, and note, 163, 218, 219, 222-224, 227, 230- 232. Bentinck, Lord Frederick Cav- endish, 148, note. Beresford, Mr., 296. Berkeley, Eari of, history, 219, and note. Berkeley, John, 159, mote. Berkeley, Thomas Moreton Fitz- Hardinge, 219, and note. Berkeley, William FitzHard- inge, 219, and note. Berry, Agnes, 84, and note. Berry, Mary, 84, and, note. Berry, Robert, 84, note. Biddulph, Robert, 200, note. Bingham, Anne Louisa, 23, note, Bingham, William, 149, note, 189. Blake, Mr., 67. Blake, Joseph, 164, n/yte. Blenheim, 122-123. Blessington, Countess of, 95, and note, 158; description of, 96. Blessington, Earl of, 96, note. Boott, Mrs., 170. Boott, Mrs. Dr., 170. Bort, Monsieur, 351. Bowdoin, Temple, Jr., 116. Bower, Johnny, 290, 291. Bowles, Charles, 215, note. Bowness, 208. Braganza, Duchess of, 158. Brett, Mr., 103. Bristol, 189. Bristol, Earl of, 319, note. British Museum, 17-21. Bronson, Mrs., 42. Brougham, Eleanor Louisa, 101 ; description of, 100. Brougham and Vaux, Baron, 85, 89, 146, 161; description of, 61, and note; party at, 100. Brougham and Vaux, Baroness, 168, 161, and note; description of, 101. Brownlow, Earl, 296, note. Bruce, James, 148, and note. Brunei, Sir Marc Isambard, 72, and note. Brunsden, Charles, 165, note. [ 366 ] INDEX Brunswick, Duke of, descrip- tion of, 63, arid note. Bryant, Elizabeth, 66, and note. Bryant, John, 66, note. Buckland, William, 126, and note. Buggin, Sir George, 69, note. Buller, Charles, 99, and note, 115, 147. Bul-n-er, Lady, 107, and note. Bulwer-Lj-tton, Edward George Earle Lj-tton, 151, 161; de- scription of, 96, and note. Burdett, Miss, 163. Burdett, Sir Francis, 13, and note, 87, noU, 110, note, 165, 170, note. Burdett, Lady, 170, and note. Burdett-Coutts, Angela Geor- gina, 13, arid note, 74, 83, 87, 89, 106, 148, 150, 163, 165, 173, 174, 276; luncheon with, 103; dinner with, 110-112; description of, 112. Burghersh, Lady, 36, and note, 37, 155. Burghersh, Lord, 36, and note, 37, 155, 156, 160, 161, 164, 220-223; his singing, 224. Burke, Edmund, 118, and note. Bumey, Charles, 19, and note. Burns, Captain, 291. Burton, 209. Butler, Samuel, 197, and note. Byron, Lord, 23, note. Byron, Hon. Augusta Ada, 23, and note. CadeU, Robert, 281, and note. CaUander, 263. Cambridge, Duchess of, 31, and note, 104, 144, 158, 165, 167, 172, 176, 340. Cambridge, Duke of, 31, note, 104, and note, 144, 158, 195, 172', 176, 340. Campbell, Baron, 149, note. Campbell, Sir James, 149, note. Campbell, Walter Frederick, 170, note. Canizzaro, Duchess of, 160. Canning, Lady, 59, and note. Canning, Sir Stratford, 59, and note, 66, 75. Canterbury, Archbishop of, 171, and note. Capel-Curig, 199. Capua, Prince of, 236, 236, note. Caractacus, Hill of, 197. Cariisle, 234, 235. Carlisle, Dean of, 350, aTid note. Carlisle, Earl of, 34, note, 337, note. Carrington, Lord, 108, note. Carroll, Charles, 56, and note. Cary, George, 74, note. Castlereagh, Viscount, 105, and note. Caton, Richard, 56, note. Chandos House, concert at, 104-105. Chantrey, Sir Francis Legatt, 13, and note; anecdote of, 79. Chantrey, Lady, 12. Chapel Royal, 55. Charles I, coiEn opened, 326- 328. Charleville, Dowager Countess of, 175, and note. CharieviUe, Eari of, 175, note. Charlotte, Princess, monument to, 136, and note. Charlotte, Queen, 325, and note. Chartist disturbances, 229, 277. Chase, Mrs., 42. Chatsworth House, 316-320. Chatterton, Lady, 69, and note, 160, 171. Chatterton, Sir William Abra- ham, 69, and note, 160, 171. Cheltenham, 187. Chepstow, 191. [ 357 ] INDEX Chester, 7. Cheueley, or the Man of Honour, 107, note. Chinese children, 102. Chirk Castle, 200. Chiswick, Horticultural exhi- bition, 24. Christ Church College, 121. Cistercian monks, 302. Clark, Sir James, 91, and note. Clark, Lady, 91. Clarke, Charles John, 178, note. Clarke-Jervoise, Sir Samuel, 73, note. Clay, William, 23, and note, 107, 112. Clay, Mrs. William, 107, 113, 115, 116. Clements, Lord, 159, and note. Clifford, Sir Augustus Wilham James, 147, and n.ote. Clifton, 190. Clonmell, Earl of, 147, note. Clubhouses, 90. Clyde, Falls of, 239. Cockburn, Henry Thomas, 281, n^te. Cockle, Miss, 50, 102. Codman, Mrs. Charles Russell, 280, and note. Coke of Norfolk, 34, note. Colburn, Lord, 281, arid note. Cole, Mary, 216, note. Coleridge, Mr., 139; description of, 138. Coleridge, Hartley, 10, and note, 81, arid note; descrip- tion of, 11. Coleridge, Sir John Taylor, 80, and note. Coltmau, Lady, 83; description of, 81. Coltman, Sir Thomas, 81, and note. Colville, Mr., 45, 60, 108. CcHpley. Miss, 93. Copley, John Singleton, 37, mote. Corbin, Mr., 95. Cork and Orrery, Dowager Countess of, description of, 88, and note, 152. Cork and Orrery, Earl of, 88, note. Cornhill, 283, 293. Cottenham, Earl of, 143, and note. Courtenay, Mr., 149. Coutts, Miss, see Burdett- Coutts. Coutts, Thomas, 13, note, 170, ncte. Covent Garden Theatre, 73, 112. Coventry, 181. Cowell, Mr., 16. Cowell, Mrs., 16. Cowper, Earl, 102. Crow Castle, 200. Cryder, Mr., 9. Cryder, Mrs., 9. Curterss, Mr., 90. Curwen, Mr., 212. Dalbiac, Gen. Sir James Charles, 292, note. Dalmahoy, 272-279. Dalton, John, Jr., 74, note. Daly, Mr., 158, 160. Darlington, 298. Davis, Mrs. Isaac P., 190. Davy, Sir Humphry, 12, and note. Davy, Lady Jane, 12, and note. Dawson, Mr., 324. Dawson, Thomas Townley, 175, note. Decies, Baron, 250, note. Denison, Mr., 75. Denison, Mrs., 45, 148. Denison, Miss, 67, 68, 149, 150. Denison, Lady Charlotte, 161, and note. Denison, John Evelyn, his kind- ness, 161, and note. I 368 ] INDEX Denman, Baron, 37, and note, 85; description of, 93. Denman, Baroness, 37, andnole. Derby, Mrs., 24. Derby, Earl of, 6, and note. Derwentwater, 215. Devon, Countess of, 149, and note. Devon, Earl of, 149, and note. Devonshire, Duke of, 316, and note, 317; description of, 318; history of, 319, and note. Dick, Quentin, concert at, 160. Dickens, Charles, 13, and note; description of, 14. Dinorben, Baron, 164, and note. Disraeli, Benjamin, 83, andnote; description of, 147. Doncaster, 308, 313. Doria Pamphilj Landi, Prince, 33, note. Doria Pamphilj Landi, Princess, 33, and note, 44. Douglas, Marquis of, 243; de- scription of, 48, and note, 172; rumour about, 242. Douglas, Lady Ellen Susan Aime, 277, aTid note. Douglas, George, 273, and note. Douglas, Lady Gertrude, de- scription of, 278. Douglas, Lady Isabella Ellen, 58, and note. Douglas, Lady Katherine Jane, 58, and note. Douglas, William, 273, note. Douro, Marchioness of, 56; dress at Queen's drawing-room, 44, and note. Douro, Marquis of, 44, note. Downshire, Marquis of, 164, note. Drummond, Andrew Robert, 345, note. Drummond, Lady, 345, and note. Dryburgh Abbey, 292. Dulcken, Louise, 90, and note. Dumbarton, 258. Duncannon, Viscount, 162, ami note, 199. Dundas, Mr., 45, 125. Durham Cathedral, 297. Durham, Countess of, 83, and note, 85. Durham, Earl of, 35, and note, 83, 99; description of, 85. Eaton Hall, 8. Eden, Thomas, 161, no(e. Edgeworth, Maria, 54, and note, 139; letter to Webster, 351. Edinburgh, 264, 266-282. Edinburgh Castle, 271-272. Eglinton Castle, 245, 247. Eglinton, Earl of, 94, and note, 172, 244, 250, 255, 256, 264,- description of, 251. Eglinton tournament, 222, 234, 247-256; practice for, 94-95; ball at, 276. Ellenborough, Earl of, 149, and note. EUice, Mrs., 85. EUice, Edward, 69, and note, 143, 147; dinner with, 84-86; letter from, 281. Elssler, Fanny, 167; description of, 157, and note. Elssler, Th6rese, 167; descrip- tion of, 158, and note. Empson, Mr., 281. Empson, Mrs., 280. Endymion, 247, note. Erne, Earl of, 36, note. Esterhazy von Galantha, Prince, 104 ; description of, 33, andnote. Eton College, 138-142. EtonMontem, description of, 139. Everett, Edward, 166, and note. Exeter, Bishop of, 149; descrip- tion of, 80, and note. Exeter, Marquis of, 168, andnote. [ 359 ] INDEX Fane, Mr., 159. Fane, Lady Cecily Jane Georgi- ana, 36, and TWte, 100, 104, 106, 107, 147, 148, 151, 152, 155, 157-161, 172, 173, 175; letter from, 216, 267. Fayrer, Captain, 3. Fazakerley, Mr., 83. Fazakerley, Mrs., 83. Fazio, 206, and note. Fielding, Anthony Vandyke Copley, 110, and note. Fitzroy, Mrs., 150. Fitzwilliam, Earl, 143, and note, 279, 316. Fletcher, Grace, see Webster. Fleurs Castle, 292. Floyd, Sir John, 65, note. Fonblanque, Albany, 151, note. Fonblanque, Mrs. Albany, 151. Forbes, Viscount, 172, note. Forbes, Viscountess, 172, and note. 173, 176, 177. Foster, Lady Elizabeth, 319, note. Foster, John Thomas, 319, note. Fountains Abbey, 300-305. Fountains Hall, 307. Fox, Colonel, 164. Fox, Mrs., 164. Fox hunt, 332. Fullerton, Mr., 281. ' Fullerton, Lord, 281, and note. Funeral, description of, 169. Galway, Viscount, 88, note. Garcia, Michelle Ferdinande Pauline, 21, and note; descrip- tion of, 160. Garter, story of the, 137. George III, 43, note, 104, note, 136, note, 325, note, 326, note. Gibson, Mr., 7, 247. Gibson-Craig, Sir James, 272, and note. Glasgow, 240, 243, 244, 246. Glendower oak, 199. Glenelg, Baron, description of, 87, and note. Glenlyon, Lord, 249, and note. Gloucester, 186, 187. Gloucester, Duchess of, 43, and note, 165, 324. Gloucester, Duke of, 43, note, 325, aTid note. Goldsmith, Lewis, 37, note. Goldsmith's Hall, 70-71. Goodall, Joseph, 141, and note, 142. Gooding, Miss, 333, 334, 337. Gordon, Duke of, 147, note, 279. Gordon, Sir WiUiam, 84, 88. Graham, Sir James Robert George, 149, and note. Graham, Lady, 149, and note. Granby, Marquis of, 337, and Tiote. Grant, Patrick, 66, note. Grasmere, Lake, 213. Gray, Samuel Calley, 68, note. Gray, Mrs. Samuel CaUey, 68, and note. Gray, William Rufus, 169, note. Green, Mrs., 45. Greenalgh, James, 39, note. Greta Hall, 215. Gretna Green, 235. Grey, Earl, 45, and note, 69, note, 83, note. 111, 293; de- scription of, 85. Grey, Lady Georgiana, 85, 92, 112. Grey, Hannah Alethea, 69, note. Grey, Earl de, 308, and note. Grisi, Giulia, 21, and note, 38, 105, 157, 160, 164; descrip- tion of, 91 ; illness, 167. Grosvenor, Lord, 80. Grote, George, dinner with, 38, and note. Grote, Mrs. George, 74 ; deacri;>' tion of, 38, and note. [ 360 ] INDBX Guest, Lady Charlotte, 164; description of, 105, and note. Guest, Sir Josiah John, 105, and note, 164. Guthrie, Mr., description of, 17. Guthrie, Mrs., 17. Haddington, Countess of, 272, 278, 282; description of, 76, and note. Haddington, Earl of, 76, and note. Haddon Hall, 342. Halford, Elizabeth Barbara, 331, and note. Halford, Sir Henry, 92, and note, 321-324, 326-330, 333, 335, 347; dinner with, 147; poem by, 343; verses about, 344. Halford, Henry, Jr., 322, note, 330, and note. HaUord, Mrs. Henry, Jr., 322, and note; description of, 330; maid's experience, 347. Hallam, Henry, 12, and note. Hamilton Castle, 240-242. Hamilton, Mr., 122, 124. Hamilton, Duchess of, 243, and note. Hamilton, Duke of, 240, 243, aTid note. Hamilton, Emma, 20, note. Hamilton, Sir William, 20, and note. Hammond, Mrs., 45. Hampstead Heath, 87. Hampton Court, 113-115. Handley, Mr., 125. Hanky, Mr., 17. Hanky, Mrs., 17. Hanky, Mrs. Alexander, 170. Harcourt, Miss, 306. Hardwicke, Earl of, 220, note. Harewood, Earl of, 162, note. Harnreaves, John, 59, note. Harness, Rev., 50, 106, 107, 110, 171; suitor of Miss Burdett- Coutts, 276. Harper's Ferry, 199. Harrington, Earl of, 163, note. Harrowby, Earl of, 37, n.ote, 74. Hastings, Marchioness of, 245. Hastings, Marquis of, 68, note. Hastings, Lady Flora, see Raw- don-Hastings. Hastings, Warren, 63, and note. Hawkins, Dr., 148. Hawkins, Mrs., 148. Hawtrey, Miss, 138, 1.39, 141. Hawtrey, Edward Craven, 138, aTid note, 140; description of, 139. Head, Colonel, 89, 90. Helvellyn, 214. Henry, Lieut. Bernard, 190, note. Henry, Mrs. Bernard, 190, and note. Hereford, 195. Hereford Cathedral, 196. Hesse-Cassel, Landgrave of, 31, note. Heth, Colonel, 74, 80. Heygate, Lady, 324, and note. Heygate, Sir William, 324, and note. Hill, Lady, 164, and note. Hill, Lord Arthur Marcus Cecil, 164, and note. Holland, Baron, 150, and note, 164, 170; description of, 171. Holland, Baroness, 150, and note, 164; description of, 170. Holyrood palace, 268-271. Hope, John, 272, and note, 282, 298. Hopetoun, Countess of, 252, and note, 273; description of, 274. Hopetoun, Earl of, 252, nott, 274, and note. Hopetoun House, 273-276. [ 361 ] INDEX Horton, Sir Robert John Wilmot, 66, and note, 67. Hudson, Jeffery, 114, and note. Hughes, Christopher, 17, and note. Humfrey, Mr., 6. Hiunfrey, Mrs., 6. Hunter, Captain, 229. Huskisson, William, 6, and note. Hyllier, Mr., 218, 219, 223. Ilchester, Earl of, 65, note. Ingestre, Viscount, 296, and note. Inglis, Bishop, 64, and note. Inglis, Sir Robert Harry, 38, and note, 160; breakfast with, 66. Inns of Court, visited, 168. Inversnaid, 259. Iremonger, Rev. Lascelles, 69, note. IvanhoS, Nicholas, 90, and note. Jackson, Dr., 220. Jackson, Dr. David, 190, note. Jaudon, Samuel, 9, and note, 12. Jaudon, Mrs. Samuel, 9, 12, 42; dinner with, 16. Jeffrey, Francis, 279, and note, 281; description of, 280. Jeffrey, Mrs. Francis, 279, 281; description of, 280. Jenkinson, Lady Louisa, 74, and note, 107. Jermyn, Countess, 345, and note. Jermyn, Earl, 345, note. Jersey, Countess of, 36, 107; description of, 106, and note. Jersey, Earl of, 106, note. Jervis, Mary Anne, 105, and note, 164, 170; description of, 162. Joliffe, Mr., 145. Jones, Captain, 26, 103, 145. Jones-Loyd, Mr., 145. Joy, Henry Hall, 39, and note, 148, 161. Joy, Mrs. Henry Hall, 39, and note, 148. Joy, John Benjamin, 39, note. Joy, Mrs. John Benjamin, 39, note. Katrine, Loch, 260. Kean, Charles John, 103, and note, 106, 161. Kelso, 292. Kemble, Charles, 206, note. Kemble, Fanny, 206, and note. Kemble, John, 298. Kemble, Stephen, 298. Kenilworth, 182-183. Kensal Green cemetery, 169. Kent, Duchess of, 43, 68, note, 340; description of, 32, and note. Kent, Duke of, 25, note, 32, note. Kenyon, Edward, 145. Kenyon, John, 13, 17, 26, 90, 103, 125-129, 134, 151, 173, 174; breakfast with, 10, and note; description of, 122; din- ner with, 145. Keppel, Rev., 329, 335; verses by, 344. Kerr, Miss, 172. Kerr, Mrs. Charles, 170. Kerrison, Gen. Sir Edward, 101, note. Keswick, 211, 214. Kilmarnock, 244, 246, 266, 257. King, Mr., 329, 335. King, Mrs., 329. liing, Miss, 329. Kingston, Duke of, 76, note. Knowsley Park, 6-7. Kyrle, John, 196, and note. Lablache, Luigi, 22, andnote, 161. Labouch^re, Henry, 54, and note. Lamb, Sir Charles Montolieu, 172, and note, 245-247; cos- tume at tournament, 252. [ 362 ] INDEX Lambton, Lady Mary Louisa, 83, aTid noUf 86. Laraie-Murray, Mr., 64. Lamie-Murray, Mrs., 64. Lanark, 237. Landon, Letitia Elizabeth, 126, and note; death, 127. Langham, Mr., 150. Langham, Misa, 110. Langham, Sir James, 110, note. Langham, Lady, 110, and note. Lanadowne House, concert at, 64. Lansdowne, Marchioness of, 65, and note, 74. Lansdowne, Marquis of, 27, 35, and note, 65, note, 109, 143. Lawrence, Miss, 300. Lesonington, 183. Leicester, Earl of, 34, and note. Le Roy, Caroline, see Webster. 'Le Roy, Jacob, 3, note. Leslie, Charles Robert, 156, and note. Leven, River, 258. Lewin, Harriet, see Mrs. George Grote. Lindsey, Earl of, 105, note. Linwood, Mary, needlework, 109, and note. Liverpool, 6, 207; docks, 5; cemetery, 5. Liverpool, Earl of, 74, and note, 107. Liverpool, steamer, 3. Llangollen, 200. Locke, Mr., 143. Lockerbie, 229, 236. Lockhart, John Gibson, 12, and note, 67, 80-83. 150, 151, 237, 239, 240, 289, 289, note; de- scription of, 50, 240; break- fast with, 101-102. Lockhart, Mrs. John Gibson, description of, 289, and note. Lockhart, Johnny, 289, Lockhart, WilUam, 238; descrip- tion of, 240. Lomond, Loch, 258. London, Bishop of, 83, and note. Londonderry, Marchioness of, 252; description of, 33, and note. Londonderry, Marquis of, 33, note, 146. Lonsdale, Countess of, 232, and note. Lonsdale, Earl of, 148, note, 163, and note, 216, 218, 221, 223, 225-229, 233, 243, 244; de- scription of, 232. Lords, House of, 60-62, 146- 147. Lovelace, Countess of, 23, and note, 37, 88. Lovelace, Earl of, 23, and note, 37, 87, 166. Low, Miss, 42. Lowther Castle, 215, 217-233; dinner at, 221; breakfast at, 222; bedrooms, 225; offices, 230, 231; servants, 233. Lowther, Lord, 218, and Twte. Lowther, Col. Henry Cecil, 220, and note, 229. Ludlow, 197. Ludlow Castle, 196. Lushington, Mr., 143. Lyndhurst, Baron, 37, and note, 53, 61, 98, 149, 150, note; his speaking, 62. Lyndhurst, Baroness, 37, and note, 53, 93, 98. Lyndhurst, Baroness (first) , 155, and note ; portrait of, 156. Macaulay, Thomas Babington, 99; description of, 76, and note. Macclesfield, Earl of, 76, note. Macdonald, Miss, 253, 273; de- scription of, 274. [ 363 J INDEX Macdonald, Baron, 252, note. MacDougall, Sir Duncan, 63, and note. Maclvor, Fergus, 235, and note. McKinnon, Mrs., 170. Mackmurdo, Edward Longdon, 324, note. Maclean, George, 126, note. Macready, William Charles, 72, and note, 112; in Henry V, 72-73. Magdalen College, 119-120. Mahon, Viscount, 101, and note, 102. Mahon, Viscountess, 101, and note. Manners, Lady Adeliza Eliza- beth Gertrude, 334, 338, 339, 341, 344, 346, 348, 349; de- Bcription of, 333, and note. Manners, Lord George John, 334, and note. Manners, Lord John James Robert, 345, and note. Manners, Russell, 74, note. Mansfield, Mrs., 67, 73, 91. Mansfield, Miss, 67. Mansion House, 72. Mario, Giuseppe, 21, and note; description of, 22. Marlborough, Duke (first) of, 122, and note. Marlborough, Duke of, descrip- tion of, 123, and note. Martin, Jonathan, 309, andnote. Mary, Princess, description of, 172, and note. Maryatt, Mrs., 86. Maryborough, Lord, 36, note, 37, note, 155. Mason, William, 189, and note. Mason, Mrs. William, epitaph on, 189. Matlock, 313, 320, 321. Maxse, Lady Caroline, 218, and note, 219, 222, 227. Maxse, James, 218, note, 219, and note, 222. Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Duke of, 325, note. Meerty, Mademoiselle, 90. Melbourne, Viscount, 65, note, 146, 180; description of, 35, and note ; his speaking, 62. Mellon, Matthew, 13, note. Melrose Abbey, 284^291. Melton Lockhart, 237-240. Melton Mowbray, 349. Melville, Viscount, 63, and note. Menai bridge, 205. Meredith, Mr., 160. Meredith, Miss, 110, 173. Metcalfe, Sir Charles The- ophilus, 143, and note, 164. Milman, Henry Hart, 88, 96, 102, 171, 205, 206; breakfast with, 49, and note. Milman, Mrs. Henry Hart, 88, 102, 171, 205, 206; description of, 49. Milnes, Richard Monckton, 10, 11, and note, 88, 247, 257; breakfast with, 59; descrip- tion of, 59. Milton, Viscount, 279, note. MUton, Viscountess, 279, and note, 316. Milton, John, autograph of, 78.- MitcheU, Mr., 158. MitcheU, Miss, 158. Mitford, George, description of, 129. Mitford, Mary Russell, 127, and note, 129 ; description of, 128. Molesworth, Sir William, 39, otkJ note. Monckton, Robert, 88, and note. Monmouth, 191, 195. Montagu, Edward Wortley, 75, note. [ 364 ] INDEX Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 74, and note. Montgomerie, Lady, 252, and note, 256. Montgomerie, Lord, 252, note. Montrose, Duchess of, descrip- tion of, 250. and note. Montrose, Duke of, 250, and note, 259. Moore, Thomas, 12, and note. Morier, James Justinian, 66, note. Morpeth, Viscount, 37, and note, 53, 143, 317. Morrison, James, 171, and note. Morton, Countess of, 173, and note, 268, 272, 273, 276, 278, 279, 292. Morton, Earl of, 173, and note, 267, 268, 273, note, 277, 279; description of, 272. Mossbank, Mr., 110. Mossbank, Miss, 110. Mostyn, Sir Edward, 164, arid note. Mulgrave, Earl of, 178, and note. Murray, Miss, 42. Murray, Sir Charles Augustus, 25, and note, 55, 76, 79, 167, 176, 177. Myddleton, Richard, 200, note. Myddleton-Biddulph, Robert, 203, and note. Myddleton-Biddulph, Mrs. Rob- ert, 200, and note. Napoleon III, 48, note. Necker, Mme. Albertine Adri- enne de Sauasure, 75, and note. Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 297. New College, 121. Newton, Sir William John, 75, and note, 259; his studio, 80. NoUekens, Joseph, 226, and note. Norman, Lady Caroline, 335, 348, 349. [ 365 Normanby, Marchioness of, 36, and note, 166, 167, 177. Normanby, Marquis of, 36, and note, 64, 91, 108, 166. Northallerton, 297, 299. Northumberland, Duke of, 297. Northumberland, Earl of, 304, note. Norton, Hon. George Chappie, 65, note. Norton, Hon. Mrs., 66, 151; description of, 65, and note. O'Connell, Daniel, description of, 99, and note. Ogden, F. B., 80, note. Ogden, Mrs. F. B., portrait of, 80. Ogilvie, Mr., 26. Ogle, Sir Charles, 74, note. Ogle, Lady, 74, and note. Opie, Amelia, 83, and note, 91. Opie, John, 83, noie. Orsay, Comte d', 144; descrip- tion of, 96, and note. Oswestry, 196, 198. Otway-Cave, Robert, 87, and note. Otway-Cave, Mrs. Robert, 87, and note. Oude, Prince of, 151, and note, 152. Owen, Mr., 147. Paige, Harriett* Story, dress of, at Queen's ball, 28; at Queen's drawing-room, 41; at Queen's party, 178. Paige, James William, 23, and note. Paige, James William, Jr., 338, and note. Palmerston, Viscount, 37, and note, 85, 180. Panizzi, Sir Anthony, 18, and note, 145. ] INDEX Parke, Sir James, 45, and note, 61, 67, 70, 73, 147, 150. Parke, Lady, 45, 67, 70, 73, 91, 149, 150. Parke, Mias, 91. Parker, Thomas, 304. Patterson, Robert, 55, Twte. Peel, Lady, 65, and note. Peel, Miss, description of, 65, 166. Peel, Sir Robert, description of, 65, aTid note, 165. Pennant, Mr., 204. Penrith, 216, 234. Pepys, Sir Lucas, 149, note. Perceval, Spencer, 62, and note; bust of, 226. Percy, Sir Henry (Hotspur), 304, and note. Persiani, Mme. Faimi, 21, and Tiofc, 95, 167; description of, 90. Perth, Lord, 261, note. Petre, Mrs., description of, 106, 158. PhUlips, Mr., 60, 88. Phillips, Henry, 1 12, and note. Philopson, Mr., epitaph by, 211. Pleydell-Bouverie, Lady Emily, 83, 150. Pollock, Rev. Dr., 74, note. Polytechnic School, 67. Porter, Jane, 83; description of, 54, and note. Portland, Duke of, 161, note. Portman, Baron, 162, note. Portman, Baroness, 162, and note, 163. Potter, Philip Cipriani Hambly, 112, ayid note. Power, Edmund, 95, note. Powerscourt, Viscount, 36, and note, 61, 89, note, 147. Powerscourt, Viscountess, 89, and note. Powis, Earl of, 198, and note. Pratt, WiUiam, 103. Preston, William C, 318, and note. Prussia, Prince Adalbert of, 158, note. Puget, James, 54, ntite. Purdie, Thomas, 288. Quatre Bras, 147, note. Queen's College, 121. Radnor, Countess of, 83, and note, 150. Radnor, Earl of, 83, note, 143, and note. Radstock, Baron, 54, and note. Radstock, Baroness, 54, and note. Raglan Castle, 194-195. Ravensworth, Baron, 36, note. Rawdon-Hastings, Lady Flora Elizabeth, 91, note, 163, 245; illness, 68, and note, 82; death, 93. Reform bill, Webster's remarks on, 202-203. Richmond, Dowager Duchess of, 150; description of, 147, and note. Richmond, Duchess of, 83, and note, 173. Richmond, Duke of, 83, note, 147, note. Ripon, Earl of, 308, and note. Robinson, Mrs. Morris, death, 216. Roden, Earl of, 89, note, 146, and note. Rodgers, Mr., 314, 315. Rodgers and Son, 314. Rogers, Samuel, 10, arid note, 160, 163, 164, 175; descrip- tion of, 11, 79; breakftist with, 76-79; party at, 162. Rogers, Sarah, 11, 12, 77, 91, 150, 151, 170, 171; breakfast with, 98; description of, 98. [ 366 ] INDEX Rolfe, Sir Robert Monsey, 281, and note. Rolfe, Sir WUliam, 27. Rose, Sir George Henry, 173, note, 279. Ross, Lady Mary, 239. Rouae-Broughton, Sir Charles William, 92, note. Roxburgh Castle, 292, 293. Roxburghe, Duchess of, 292, and note. Roxburghe, Duke of, 292, and note. Rubini, Giovanni Battista, 22, and note. 161, 164. Rundell and Bridge, 57. Rush, Benjamin, 175, and note. Russell, Earl, 143, and note. Rutherfurd, Lord, 143, and note, 281. Rutland, Duchess of, 337, and note, 339, 342 ; mausoleum to, 342-343. Rutland, Duke of, 321, and note, 322, 323, 331-337, 342, 345, 348, 349; verses about, 344. Rydal Mount, 212. St. Albans, Duchess of, 13, and note. St. Albans, Duke of, 13, note, 150, and note. St. John, Baron, 92, note. St. John, Baroness, 92, and note. St. John-Mildmay, Sir Henry Paulet, 83, note. St. Paul's Cathedral, 57; service at, 97. St. Paul's Chapel, 74. St. Vincent, Viscount, 105, and note, 162. Salisbury, Bishop of, 46, and note, 68. Sandwich, Earl of, 91, note. Sargent, Henry, 11, and note. Saussure, H. Binfediot de, 75, note. Saussure, Mme. de, see Necker. Saxe-Coburg, Duke of, 136, note. Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, Duke of, 32, note. Saxe-Meiningen, Duke of, 55, note. Saxe-Weimar, Duke of, 177, and note. Saye and Sele, Baron, 164, and Tiote. Scarlett, Sir James Yorke, 59, and note. Scarlett, Mrs. James Yorke, 59, aTid note. Scofield, Rev. Philip, 350. Scotch Antiquities, Museum o^» 266. Scotch women, 283. Scott, Anne, description of, 289, and note. Scott, Charlotte Sophia, see Mrs. John Gibson Lockhart. Scott, Sir Walter, 12, note, 239, 284-292; anecdote of, 276. Scott, Sir Walter (Jr.), de- scription of, 2S6. Sedgwick, Catherine Maria, 99, and note. 111. Selkirk, Countess of, 58, and note. Selkirk, Earl of, dinner with, 58, and note. Senior, Nassau William, 22, and note, 58, 104, 143, 145, 146, 149; dinner with, 87. Senior, Mrs. Nassau William, 22, 39, 87, 149. Seymer, Henry Ker, 45, note. Seymer, Louisa Maria, 45, and note. Seymour, Lady, 66, 100, 108, 178, 251; description of, 65, and note, 95; dress at tourna- ment, 250. [ 367 ] INDEX Seymour, Lord, 65, note. ShaUow FaU, 202. Shee, Sir Martin Archer, opin- ion of Webster, 111, and note. Sheffield, 313, 314. Sheffield plate, description of, 314, 315. Shelburne, Earl of, 23, and note. Shelley, Sir John, 146, and note. Shelley, Lady, 74, 146, and note, 160. Sheridan, Mr., 151. Sheridan, Thomas, 65, note. Shrewsbury, 197. Shrewsbury, Earl of, 33, note. Singleton, Mr., 48. Singleton, Richard, 48, note. Skelmersdale, Baron, 83, note. Smith, John Abel, 73, note, 91, and note. Smith, Mrs. John Abel, 73, and note, 91. Smith, Rev. Sydney, 54, and note, 67, 83, 99; tea with, 56; sermon by, 97. Smith, Mrs. Sydney, 83, 149; description of, 57. Smyth, Grice Blakeney, 236, note. Smyth, Penelope, 236, and note. Smyth, WilUam, 56, and note. Snowdon, 202. Somerset, Lady Augusta, 144, and note. Somerset, LadyGranvilleCharles Henry, 108, and note, 172. Somerset, Lord Granville Charles Henry, 108, note. Sophia, Princess, 325, and note. Southey, Robert, 215; his health, 213, and Twte. Southey, Mrs. Robert, 215, and note. Southwell, Viscount, 159, note. Southwell, Viscountess, 159, and note. Spencer, Earl, 122, and note, 124, 319, note. Spencer, Georgiana, 319, note. Spring-Rice, Thomas, 66, and note. Stanley, Lady, 83, and note. Stanley, Lord, 6, and note, 83. Stepney, Lady, 74, and note, 159; called Lady Stepastray, 107; party at, 151. Stepney, Sir Thomas, 74, note. Stevenson, Andrew, 13, and note, 24, 29, 48, 48 note. Stevenson, Mrs. Andrew, 24, 29, 30, 39, 40, 43, 48, 68, 86, 166 ; dress at Queen's drawing- room, 41; at home, 69. Stewart, Mr., 277. Stewart, Mrs., 115. StirUng, 263. Stirling Castle, 263. Stockton, Captain, 26, 72, 74. Story, Ehza, 68, note. Story, Joseph, 75, and note, 92; description of, 226. Stow and Mortimer, 27, 64. Stratford-on-Avon, 184^186. Strathedon, Baroness, 149, and note. Stuart, Mr., 143. Stuart, Mrs., 265. Stuart de Rothsay, Baron, 220, n^te. Stuart de Rothsay, Baroness, 220, and note, 222, 225, 227, 229. Stuart de Rothsay, Louisa, 220, and note, 222-224, 227, 229. Stuart-Wortley, Hon. Charles, 345, note. Stuart-Wortley, Lady Emme- line, 345, and note. Stuart-Wortley, Lady Georgi- ana, 37, and note, 74, 93, 316; description of, 75. [ 368 ] INDEX Stuart-Wortley, John, 36, and note, 37, TWte, 93, 316; descrip- tion of, 75. Sturgis, 'William, 9, note. Sullivan, John Turner Sargent, 48, note, 172. Sussex, Duke of, 29, and note, 69, TWte, 164; description of, 69. Sutherland, Duchess of, 178; description of, 34, arid note. Sutherland, Duke of, 34, note. Taglioni, Marie Sophie, 95, 157; description of, 22, and note. Talfourd, Sir Thomas Noon, 93, and note. Tamburini, Antonio, 21, and n^te. Tankeri-ille, Earl of, 297. Tappan, SewaU, 74. Tavistock, Marchioness of, 163, and note. Tavistock, Marquis of, 163, n/)te. Taylor, Sir Henry, SO, and note, 84, note. Territt, "William, 172, note. Thomas, Col. Charles, 156, note. Thompson, Miss, 220, 222, 224, 227, 232. Thorold, Sir John Hayford, 74, note. Thorreton, Rev., 333, 334. Thurwell, Mr., 50. Ticknor, George, 10, and note. Tintem Abbey, 192-193. Tisdall, James, 175, note. Tollemache, Hon. Charles, 178, note. Tower of London, 14-16. Trenton Falls, 202. Trossachs, 261. Tullwell Lodge, 112-117. Tweeddale, Marquis of, 44, note. Ullswater, 223. Underwood, Lady Cecilia Letj- tia, 69, and note, 164. Uxbridge, Earl of, 179, and note. Van Buren, Abraham, 48, and note, 70. Van Buren, Mrs. Abraham, 48, arid note, 70. Van de Weyer, Sylvain, 21, and note, 166. Van de Weyer, Mrs. Sylvain, 21, and note, 160. Vane, Lord Harry George, 158, and TWte. Vane-Tempest, Sir Henry, 33, note. Vaasall, Richard, 150, note. Vaughan, Mr., 151. Vaughan, Miss, 93, 148, 322, 325, 329, 333, 335, 346, 347; description of, 330. Vaughan, Sir Charles Richard, 69, and note, 92, 93, 146, 148, 323. Vaughan, Sir John, 60, and note, 322, TWte, 323 ; dinner with, 92; remarks on Joseph Story, 92. Vaughan, Thomas Nugent, 172, TWte, 177, and note. VauxhaU, 174-175. Vernon-Harcourt, Egerton, 125i and note, 126, 307. Vevers, Rev. Richard, 37, note. Viardot, M., 21, Tiote. Victoria, Queen, 35, note, 104, 144, 158, 243, 340; invitation to ball, 25, and note ; ball, 28- 36; description of, 29, 30; Mrs. Paige presented to, 31; drawing-room, 40-45 ; dress at Westminster ffite, 47; danc- ing, 48; remarks to Webster, 64; need of gaiety, 82; amuse- ments, 167; party, 175-180; dress, 178; Webster's opinion [ 369 ] INDEX of, 179; will of her own, 180; dancing, 180; rumour about, 242. Virginia Hot Springs, 188. Virginia Water, 142. Voyage to England, 3-5. Wallace, Sarah, 13. Waller, Edmund, 118, and note. Walpole, Horace, 84, note. Waltham, 350. Warwick Castle, 183. Warwick, Earl of, 183. Waterford, Marquis of, 220, note, 293, and note, 295, 296. Watson, John, 10. Watson, Rev. John L., 97, and note. Wa-verley, 235, note. Webb, Colonel, 72. Webster, Daniel, 3, 13, 27, 56, 60, 72, 80, 82, 85, 89, 93, 96- 99, 104, 106, 108, 110-112, 116, 119, 122, 125, 128, 129, 139, 141-143, 145-147, 149- 153, 159-163, 166, 171, 173, 176, 187, 195, 196, 199, 200, 207, 210-212, 215, 216, 219, 225, 227, 235, 243, 244, 246, 255, 256, 262, 267, 268, 282, 298, 304, 306-308, 313, 314, 316, 317, 333, 334, 349; visits British Museum, 18; dress at Queen's ball, 28; attends Lev6e, 64; travels "en prince," 118; at Agricultural dinner, 124; speech, 126; dines at Hol- land House, 164 ; introduced to Royal family, 165; opinion of Queen, 179; writes name at Shakspeare's birthplace, 185; takes wood from Shakspeare pew, 186; remarks on Reform bill, 202; gift from Lord Lons- dale, 232; opinion on English cUmate, 299; fox hunting, 332; letter from Maria Edge- worth, 351. Webster, Mrs. Daniel (Grace Fletcher), 3, note, 116, mote, 216, note. Webster, Mrs. Daniel (Caroline Le Roy), 3, and note, 13, 30, 43, 60, 62, 89, 96, 99, 106, 108, 116, 125, 149, 150, 153, 158, 162, 173, 179, 195, 212, 221, 223, 226, 227, 232, 262, 313, 334, 349; macaw bites hat, 27; dress at Queen's ball, 28; dress at Queen's drawing-room, 40; exhausted, 104; iU, 147, 151; introduced to Royal family, 165; dress at Queen's party, 178. Webster, Daniel Fletcher, 116, and note, 289. Webster, Mrs. Daniel Fletcher, 116, and note. Webster, Edward, 216, and note, 243, 247, 262, 334, 351. Webster, Grace, 116, and note. Webster, Julia, 3, and note, 13, 30, 40, 55, 58, 74, 89, 96, 99, 104, 106, 107, 116, 149, 150- 152, 173-175, 177, 187, 195- 197, 208, 211, 212, 223, 227, 229, 262, 296, 320, 334, 350; dress at Queen's ball, 28; at panorama of Malta, 166; dances in Royal quadrille, 178; dress, 178. Wedderburn-Colvile, James, 58, note. Wellesley, Marchioness, 55, and note; description of, 56. Wellesley, Marquis, 65, note. Wellington, Duke of, 44, and note, 56, 146, 164, 165, 174, 264; description of, 61, 152- 157. Welsh women, 201. West, Benjamin, 114, and note. I 370 2 INDEX Westminster Abbey, 60-53. Westminster Hall, 62. Westminster, Marchioness of, 36, and note, 47. Westminster, Marquis of, 8, and note, 35, 36, note, 350; ate at, 46-49. Westmoreland, Earl of, 36, note, 106, note, 148, and note, 232, note: dinner with, 158; de- scription of, 159. WharncUffe, Bajon, 36, and note, 316. Wharncliffe, Baroness, 36, and note, 74, 75. Wheeler, Francis, 107, note. Whichcote, Lady, 220, and note, 227; description of, 221. Whichcote, Sir Thomas, 220, and note. White, Caroline Story, see Mrs. Daniel Fletcher Webster. White, Elizabeth Stone, see Mrs. Samuel Galley Gray. White, Ellen Marion, see Mrs. John Benjamin Joy. White, Harriet Story, 75, note. White, Capt. Joseph, 68, note. White, Stephen, 39, note, 116, note. Wiggin, Benjamin, 9. Wiggin, Mrs. Benjamin, 9. Wiggin, Holme, 9. Wiggin, Timothy, 9, andnote, 67. Wiggin, Mrs. Timothy, 9, 166. Wilkes, Charles, 280. William IV, 55, note. Willis, Nathaniel Parl?er, 39, and note. 108, 247, 279. Willoughby de Eresby, Baron, 261, note. Willoughby de Eresby, Baroness, 261, and note. Wilton, Earl of, 36,note, 350, and note. Winckley, Thomas, 146, note. Windermere, 211. Windermere, Lake, 212. Windsor Castle, 130-138. Wistow Hall, 322-331. Woburn Abbey, 346-347. Wombwell, Lady, 38. Wood, Mr., 45. Worcester, 186. Worcester, Marquis of, descrip- tion of, 140, and note. Wordsworth, William, 10, and note, 11, 163, note, 212, 225. Wordsworth, Mrs. William, 212, and note. Wraix-Currie, Mr., 87. Wraix-Currie, Mrs., 87. Wynd Gliff, 191. Wynn, Sir Watkin Williams, 198, and note. York, 300, 306. York, Archbishop of, 125, 306, and note, 313. York Minster, 308-313. Young, Mr., 160. Zichy, Countess, 160. Zoological Gardens, 26-27. Five hundred and seventy copies of this book, of which five hundred are for sale, were printed at The Riverside Press, Cambridge, V. S. A., in December, 1917 ■LH\'>. \-i T«>'V«rt' '„,;iS'V -/><».>. si.l'U 'Vi .InT.rtsi •' S!°i-