Qforttell HmuwHitH Slibraty 
 
 3ltl;ara, ^em fatk 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 CLASS OF 1876 
 1918 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tlie Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023257219 
 
NEWFOUNDLAND TO 
 COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 Cornell University Library 
 G 480.V77 
 
 Newfoundland to Coc^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 3 1924 023 257 219 
 
NEWFOUNDLAND 
 
 TO 
 
 COCHIN CHINA 
 
 BY THE GOLDEN WAVE, NEW NIPPON, 
 AND THE FORBIDDEN CITY 
 
 BY 
 
 Mrs. HOWARD VINCENT 
 
 AUTHORESS OF " 40,000 MILES OVER LAND AND WATER.' 
 
 WITH REPORTS ON BRITISH TRADE AND INTERESTS 
 IN CANADA, JAPAN, AND CHINA 
 
 By Col. HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 LONDON 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY 
 
 Limited 
 SA. jpnitetan's %<mst 
 
 Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.C. 
 
 1892 
 
 [A /I rights reserved] 
 
TO MY CHILD 
 
 VERA. 
 
 IN THE HOPE THAT ONE DAY SHE MAY TRAVEL 
 
 AS HER PARENTS HAVE DONE, 
 
 AND 
 
 WIJH AS MUCH INSTRUCTION, 
 
 AND 
 
 ENJOYMENT. 
 
The favourable reception vouchsafed to "40,000 
 Miles over Land and Water " has induced me to 
 yield to the kind wishes of many Friends and 
 Constituents, and to record the impressions of my 
 second circle round the world. 
 
 Ethel Gwendoline Vincent. 
 
 I, Grosvenor Square. 
 May 21 si, 1892. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Our Premier Colony .... i 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 The Maritime Provinces, and through lake 
 
 AND forest, to THE QUEEN CiTY . . .21 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 By THE Golden Wave to the Far West . . 40 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks . 70 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 To THE Land of the Rising Sun . . .105 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 New Nippon 149 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 The Western Capital and Inland Sea . 183 
 
X Contents. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 The Yellow Land 217 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 The Celestial City. ... . 247 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 The Forbidden City . . . . 272 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Shanghai and Hong-Kong . . . 297 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 Cochin China ...... 311 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 British and American Trade in Canada . 325 
 
 British Trade with Japan 337 
 
 British Interests in China 348 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 St. John's, Newfoundland .... .3 
 
 Plan of a Manitoban Township 53 
 
 The Ranche Pupil .... ... 66 
 
 Howe Pass -70 
 
 Kananaskis Falls •]t, 
 
 Cascade Mountain, Banff .... 74 and 75 
 Bird's-eye View of Banff . . . . yy 
 
 Bow Valley 79 
 
 Banff Springs Hotel, Canadian National Park . 80 
 
 The Pool, Hot Springs, Banff 81 
 
 Mount Stephen, the King of the Canadian Rockies . 85 
 
 Train emerging from Snow-shed 90 
 
 Great Glacier, Canadian Rockies 92 
 
 The Loops 94 
 
 Frazer Canon 97 and 98 
 
 " A Little Mother ^' . ... ... 129 
 
 The Red Lacquer Bridge, Nikko 139 
 
 Pagoda of the Temple at Nikko 142 
 
 Mausoleum of Yeyasu ..... . . 144 
 
 An Imperial Garden, Tokio ... . . 152 
 
 A Typhoon 159 
 
 Street of Enoshima, Japan 163 
 
xii List of Illustrations. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 My Carriage at Kioto 189 
 
 A Chinese Street 229 
 
 Our Home on the Peiho 235 
 
 How I went to Peking 241 
 
 A Gate of Peking 250 
 
 A Street in Peking 261 
 
 Her Ladyship's Foot 270 
 
 All that is seen of the Forbidden City .... 278 
 
 Homage to " The Son of Heaven " .... 280 
 
 The Great Wall .... . . 295 
 
 Harbour of Hong-Kong . . .... 305 
 
 Botanical Garden, Saigon 314 
 
NEWFOUNDLAND TO 
 COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 OUR PREMIER COLONY. 
 
 Land in sight when I awake at S a.m., a grey 
 streak across the oval of the port. With what 
 intense satisfaction we gaze on the line of barren 
 rock, which has a suspicion of green horizon on 
 the summit of the grey cliffs, only those can 
 picture who have been at sea for some time. 
 
 Presently we glide past Cape Race, with its neat 
 signal station on the cliffs, and know that in a 
 few minutes the arrival of our ship, the Nova 
 Scotian, will be signalled at St. John's. We see 
 a few fish-curing sheds on the tiny bays of yellow 
 sand, and some white specks that represent 
 cottages. They are dreary little settlements, and 
 near them the fishing-boats pass us, returning home 
 
 B 
 
2 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 after their rough night's work, for this is the 
 inhospitable coast of Newfoundland, the Premier 
 Colony of England. 
 
 As the morning wears on and the sun rises, it is 
 a pretty scene. The great blue restless ocean, 
 with its mighty Atlantic swell, lashing itself in 
 spray and foam, with a long white line breaking 
 and disappearing, re-appearing and dying against 
 the bleak rock-bound coast. Sometimes the cliffs 
 are formed of strata of grey lava or limestone, at 
 others they are of rich red sandstone, colours that 
 are intensified with the peculiar clearness of the 
 atmosphere. Above all, there is a pure blue sky, 
 with white clouds chasing each other and casting 
 shadows along the coast. Now and again we 
 pass large fishing luggers sailing swiftly by in the 
 brisk breeze. Some have tawny orange or deep 
 brown sails, others pure white ones, looking like 
 wings spread in the sunlight, gliding swiftly and 
 silently past. It is a rich bit of colouring to eyes 
 tired and sad with the monotony of an impene- 
 trable, all-surrounding line of sky and ocean. 
 
 The approach to St. John's is romantic. The 
 barrier of cliffs still rises to larboard, without an 
 apparent break or indentation, whilst they say 
 that we shall be anchored at the wharf in ten 
 minutes. Another scanning of the coast reveals 
 at length two rocks rising higher than the others, 
 with a slight fall between them. The ship ploughs 
 
Our Premier Colony. 3 
 
 along broadside, and until exactly opposite this 
 opening. With a few final plungings, and last 
 rollings and tossings, she is brought sharply round, 
 and we face the harbour of St. John's. The great 
 brown rocks, sparsely sprinkled with green, rise 
 up forbidding our entrance, and inside these is 
 
 St. John's, Newfoundland. 
 
 another amphitheatre of granite against which the 
 town of St. John's is built. The line of wharves 
 forms a black foundation. The haven where we 
 would be lies peaceful and blue in the midst. 
 The first sight of St. John's and the last, always 
 include the twin red towers of the Roman 
 Catholic Cathedral standing out on a platform 
 above the town. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 Newfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 Now we are passing immediately under the cliffs, 
 with which we make very near acquaintance as 
 we go through the Narrows. To add to the diffi- 
 culties of this passage, there is a rock at the 
 narrowest part called the Great Chain Rock, where 
 in olden times a chain was fastened across the har- 
 bour to guard the entrance. Another and greater' 
 danger, a sunken rock, lies bidden under the 
 smooth water. A gun is fired from the lofty 
 signal station, to tell anxious hearts of the incom- 
 ing mail, and with a large part of the population 
 of St. John's on the wharf (for they always gather 
 to greet and speed the fortnightly steamer) we 
 land in Newfoundland. 
 
 On the kind invitation of Lady O'Brien and 
 the Governor, we are driven by Mr. Cecil Fane, 
 his Excellency's aide-de-camp and able secretary, 
 to Government House. This is a handsome stone 
 building, looking more so amongst its surroundings 
 of wooden houses, standing above the town in its 
 own grounds. The view from the house into the 
 open country is charming. In the far distance a 
 range of purple mountains. Then patches of dark 
 pine forests, alternating with green, park-like 
 spaces. The Roman Catholic cemetery with its 
 wooden crosses lying on a hillside. Beneath it in 
 a basin, the little blue lake of Quidi Vidi, which 
 plays such an important part in the social life of 
 St, John's, Here they yacht and boat, fish and 
 
Oit-r Premier Colony. 5 
 
 bathe in summer. In winter they use it to sleigh, 
 skate, and toboggan on, but above all they hold their 
 annual regatta here. It is fixed for next week, 
 and may be called the Epsom of Newfoundland. 
 The population from all parts of the Island gathers 
 to see it. In olden days each merchant chief had 
 his yacht and crew of employes, and partisanship 
 ran high, but now the races belong to the clubs in 
 town, such as the Temperance, Athenaeum, etc. 
 
 In the afternoon the Hon. Augustus Harvey 
 took us for a beautiful drive of twenty-eight miles 
 across the Island. WhOj seeing that bare rocky 
 coast in the morning, would have believed that the 
 interior of the Island could be so lovely ! We 
 drove along a good macadamized road, passing the 
 pretty white wooden houses with red roofs and 
 neat palings, the country residences of the mer- 
 chants. Here is the one belonging to Mr. Baird of 
 lobster fame. Each house has a flagstaff and 
 floating flag ; indeed, St. John's is called the city of 
 flags, for everyone who is anybody possesses one, 
 and flies it proudly when in residence. There are 
 great clumps of purple iris growing wild by the 
 roadside. We pass through many plantations of 
 fir trees, junipers and larches. The great feature 
 of Newfoundland scenery is water. It is every- 
 where. Flowing in rivulets, covered with reeds by 
 the roadside, enclosed in hollows in the hills as 
 lakes, hurrying from the mountains as a gushing 
 
6 Newfotindland to Cochin China. 
 
 torrent, protesting angrily in rapids and foam 
 against the rocks in its course. It is the great 
 feature and the great charm, and one-third of the 
 Island is said to be water. In one drive you may 
 count as many as two dozen lakes. 
 
 At times, as you look round, the country reminds 
 you of Scotland, with the purple blue mountains in 
 the distance and the dark patches of fir trees. At 
 others there is a marshy and barren bit of bog 
 land, with cabins recalling the wilds of Connemara. 
 Then some scene in the Tyrol is brought before 
 you ; high mountains and deep valleys filled with 
 dense pine forests, a lake hidden in their midst. 
 Frequently a chain of mountains has a similar 
 chain of lakes winding at its base. These lakes 
 are divided by a narrow isthmus of land, or con- 
 nected by flowing streams. They are full of fish 
 of all descriptions. If England is the paradise for 
 horses, this is the paradise for fishermen. Other 
 sport can be obtained by the partridge-shooting 
 in August and September. The partridges re- 
 semble Scandinavian ptarmigan. There are also 
 wild deer to be had by stalking the mountains 
 forty miles in the interior. 
 
 We always think of Newfoundland as the land 
 of fog, lobster, and cod, and know it best in con- 
 nection with the breed of Newfoundland dogs. 
 This race is degenerating and threatened with 
 extinction, and there are scarcely any good 
 
Ottr Premier Colony. 7 
 
 specimens of these beautiful and intelligent dogs 
 left in the island. But I think few have any idea 
 what extremely beautiful scenery there is, and when 
 there is no fog, the atmosphere is remarkable for 
 extreme dryness and clearness, giving the most 
 vivid colouring and the sharpest delineations to 
 the mountains. 
 
 This was the case to-day ; and as we drove to 
 the Twenty Mile Lakes, so called because they 
 are twenty miles round, I thought I had rarely 
 seen brighter, prettier, or more varied landscape. 
 The water of St. John's comes from these lakes, 
 and they claim to have the purest supply of any 
 town in the world. Instead of being bare and 
 desolate, the country is green and smiling. There 
 are a few widely scattered farm-houses, but as a 
 whole not much cultivation is attempted. 
 
 After a long ascent, we gain a glimpse of the 
 sea. We have been driving across a narrow main- 
 land, from the ocean to the ocean, and before us, 
 gleaming softly in the evening sunlight, is the 
 beautiful Bay of Conception. The surrounding 
 cliffs are quite purple, the ocean is a golden sea 
 broken up by green islands. Far below us is a 
 cluster of houses, a fishing settlement, with a lobster 
 factory and some flakes run out over the rocks. 
 There are boats idly rocking at the quay, whilst 
 others are catching bait for a fishing schooner, 
 lying at anchor in the bay. They told us of one 
 
8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 of the governors who was brought here within sight 
 of this bay to die. He thought it so beautiful. 
 So did we. Then we drove home quickly in the 
 dusk, late for dinner, but charmed with the island. 
 We found Sir Terence and Lady O'Brien just 
 arrived from a few days' cruise by the " Out-ports " 
 on the coast. They give us wonderful descriptions 
 of the grandeur of the scenery. The government 
 steam yacht, in which they journeyed, will start 
 with the judges on circuit in a few days. 
 
 Thursday, Aug. 6th. — We awoke to a lovely 
 spring morning, with the breeze whispering 
 amongst the trees, and the Union Jack flapping 
 gently against the flagstaff in Government House 
 garden. Springhas just come. Asparagus and peas 
 are coming up in the garden, strawberries are ripen- 
 ing and the hay is ready to cut. We have gone back 
 three months in our season. The climate of New- 
 foundland is abominable. The winter is inter- 
 minably long and severe, lasting from the begin- 
 ning of October to May. There are incessant fogs, 
 which envelop everything in a cold damp pall. 
 
 Nor is the island exempt from these fogs even 
 during its short summer. The climate is also 
 subject to extreme and rapid changes, from heat 
 to cold, in a few hours. The summer has been 
 unusually delayed this year, and had we come 
 three weeks earlier, we should have seen an ice- 
 berg in the middle of the harbour. 
 
Our Premier Colony. g 
 
 Newfoundland is about the size of Ireland, or 
 one-third more. Its population is some 200,000, 
 but of this number 28,000 live at St. John's, which 
 is therefore the centre of all hfe, commercial, 
 political and social. The remainder of the popula- 
 tion is chiefly settled on the coast, in fishing 
 villages called the " Out-ports," whilst the interior 
 of the island is . sparsely settled, and in some 
 parts unexplored. The population is dwindling, 
 and there is no immigration, of which they are 
 jealous, as reducing the means already deficient 
 of living, but there is emigration to Canada and 
 the United States. 
 
 The people are of English, Scotch and Irish 
 descent, but those from England are chiefly from 
 the west coast and Devonshire. The Premier, 
 Sir William Whiteway, is a Devonian. And a 
 curious little fact exemplifies this. If you ask 
 for cream, it is always Devonshire clotted cream 
 that is brought. 
 
 Newfoundland was the first, of England's 
 colonial possessions. Sebastian Cabot discovered 
 the island in 1497, and claimed it for Henry VII. 
 With the discovery of America, all nations came 
 forward to claim a share, but it was England and 
 France who chiefly engaged in the fisheries, which 
 were then a source of great wealth. Sir Gilbert 
 Humphrey and Sir Walter Raleigh annexed the 
 island for Queen Elizabeth. Even at that time 
 
I o Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 100,000/. worth of fish were annually exported. 
 The ships left England in March, and returned in 
 September, and these voyages formed a nursery 
 for English seamen. In 1635 the French obtained 
 permission from England to dry fish on the shores 
 of Newfoundland. This may be said to have laid 
 the beginning of the troubles which are now so 
 active. The island was kept in a deserted con- 
 dition by the merchant adventurers up to 1729. 
 They persuaded the authorities at home that it 
 was uninhabitable, in order that they might retain 
 the fishing rights in their own hands. Masters of 
 vessels were obliged to bring back to England 
 each soul they embarked, under penalty of 100/. 
 When at length this tyranny gave way, a 
 governor sent from England, and the island 
 colonized, the fishermen were still so poor as to 
 be in complete subjection to the merchants under 
 the " supplying system." This baneful " truck " 
 practice begun so long ago, continues in use unto 
 this day, with equally evil results. The only 
 support of the fishermen (who form the bulk of 
 the population) is fish. Upon the result of the 
 fishing season the year's comfort and prosperity 
 depend. But this, to be done on a profitable 
 scale, requires a considerable plant. There are 
 only three classes in Newfoundland : the mer- 
 chants, the planters, and the fishermen. The 
 last class are in durance to the first, through the 
 
Ottr Premier Colony. 1 1 
 
 medium of the planter. The planter obtains from 
 the merchant the necessary outfit for the fisher- 
 men in clothes and goods, and this is sold on credit. 
 On his return from the fisheries (the chief of 
 which are off the Great Bank), he seizes the catch 
 and repays himself, and the merchant, who dis- 
 poses of the fish. Thus the fishermen are kept 
 in a hopelessly poor and dependent posi- 
 tion. 
 
 Of course, since our arrival, we have heard 
 every side of this much-vexed Fishery Question. 
 But at least we can now fully understand the " life- 
 and-death" importance of the question to the 
 island, of the curtailment of their fishery grounds 
 by the French shore dispute. The life of the cod- 
 fish and lobster is the life of the Newfoundlanders, 
 and to lessen their catch of fish is to lower pro- 
 portionately their already low standard of living. 
 The question of the French obtaining bait and 
 erecting lobster factories is discussed at every 
 dinner table. Mr. Baird, by defying Sir Baldwin 
 Walker, is called the village Hampden. They 
 feel deeply the apparent want of sympathy of the 
 Home Government, and indeed it cannot be easy 
 for Her Majesty's Ministers to understand the vital 
 interests involved in this dispute to the islanders 
 without a personal visit to St. John's. 
 
 We should like to have visited the disputed 
 fishing shore off the islands of St. Pierre and 
 
12 Newfoundlmid to Cochin China. 
 
 Miquelon, but it lies 135 miles down the coast, and 
 the only means of communication is by a fishing 
 schooner. 
 
 We went^sight-seeing in St. John's in the morn- 
 ing. Our first visit was to the adjacent square 
 stone building, the House of Assembly. It is a 
 miniature House of Commons, contained in a lofty 
 room, with long windows. There is the Speaker's 
 chair, the table, the ministerial and opposition 
 benches, though the latter are only occupied by 
 the eight members in opposition, whilst the minis- 
 terial benches boast a cohort of twenty-six, 
 of whom all but two are said to be in receipt of 
 an official salary. There is also a Legislative 
 Council, or Upper House ; and an Executive 
 Council, or Cabinet, which meets weekly at 
 Government House. 
 
 Sir William Whiteway, the Premier, returns by 
 the next steamer from the Delegation to England, 
 but his colleagues are here, and we meet them 
 all. 
 
 The Roman Catholic cathedral is the next most 
 prominent building at St. John's. Its situation on 
 a plateau high above the town, and facing the 
 harbour, tells in its favour. Inside the railed-off 
 square there are four beautiful marble statues. 
 The Cathedral is finely proportioned inside, and 
 over the high altar there is a fine bas-relief 
 representation of the Dying Christ. The more 
 
Our F rentier Colony. 1 3 
 
 you travel, the more struck you are with the 
 activity of the Church of Rome in all parts of the 
 world, and particularly in the Colonies. We found 
 it so in Australia and New Zealand. In Eastern 
 and Central Canada the finest buildings in the 
 cities are the Roman Catholic cathedrals. So it 
 is at Ottawa, at Montreal (where they are build- 
 ing one with a dome after the model of St. 
 Peter's), and at Halifax. Here it is the same. 
 One wonders whence the money comes, and 
 whether it is true that the Roman Catholics, with 
 no State endowment, are more generous in the 
 support of their religion than us Protestants. 
 We visited Bishop Power, for we hold a circular 
 autograph letter from Cardinal Manning (my 
 husband's godfather, now gone to his rest), written 
 in Latin, and addressed to all the Archbishops, 
 Bishops and Clergy of the Roman hierarchy in all 
 parts of the globe. It ensures us a welcome from 
 them everywhere. 
 
 We then went to the English cathedral, which 
 lies lower down in the city, and is a fine Gothic 
 structure designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, but it 
 presents a sorry contrast to the other, as there is a 
 blank where the tower should be, and, save for a 
 few stained glass windows, it is bare and undecorr 
 ated. There is a heavy debt of 20,000/. on the 
 cathedral, to meet which several public-spirited 
 gentlemen have banded together and insured their 
 
14 N ewfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 lives in its favour. They feel that they have made 
 sufficient sacrifices, and that having built the fabric, 
 it must be left to their sons to decorate it. 
 
 Then we descended to Water Street. It is the 
 principal street, lying parallel with the harbour, and 
 a somewhat untidy and unsavoury avenue. It is 
 a real descent to reach it, for the other streets 
 climb up from it at right angles, and each one 
 is a mountain to ascend. There is one cab-stand 
 here for the whole town. The vehicles on it 
 are of antiquated date, the seat for the driver 
 dovetailing into a back seat for a passenger. 
 There are frequent stand pipes ready for the fire 
 brigade, who have stations with the horses stand- 
 ing ready under suspended collars, and all the 
 new imprdvements. The pressure of water is so 
 good that, with hoses attached, the jets will pass 
 over the cathedral. Thrice already destroyed by 
 fire, St. John's now takes all human precautions. 
 There are several banks, a fine hotel, from without 
 at least, but which is said to defeat its exterior pro- 
 mise inside, a general hospital, penitentiary, orphan- 
 ages, sailors' homes, and a technical and high school. 
 The education of the island is in a far advanced 
 state, with compulsory and free education. The 
 museum in the post office contains specimens of 
 the marble, coal and gypsum found in the island. 
 Newfoundland is rich in mineral wealth, and only 
 requires capital for its development. 
 
Our Premier Colony. 15 
 
 We had a heavenly afternoon for a tea picnic 
 to Logy's Bay. Indeed the beautiful drives and 
 expeditions seem endless, and Logy's Bay is only 
 one of the many lovely coves and bays that indent 
 the coast. We dip over the hill and look down 
 on an exquisite little picture, with a blue bay 
 surrounded by headlands of red and green cliffs, 
 and the sea shimmering beyond. Far away on 
 the horizon there is a gleaming white pillar. It 
 is a floating iceberg. We wishj oh ! so much, as 
 we eat strawberries under the cliffs, that it was 
 nearer to us. 
 
 Before we descended into Logy's Bay, we knew 
 that it contained a fishing settlement, by the 
 pungent odours of highly flavoured fish that 
 ascended to us, and over the bay there are many 
 extended flakes. These flakes are formd by rough 
 supports made of fir poles covered with branches 
 of fir-trees. Each codfish is split, salted and laid 
 open on these flakes. It takes six weeks of ex- 
 posure to cure the fish, and there is a good deal of 
 labour involved. Each morning the cod must be 
 laid out on the Hake. Each evening it must be 
 gathered in, stacked and covered with bark, to 
 which stones are attached to keep it down. This 
 fish is then exported to Roman Catholic countries 
 like Spain, Brazil, Portugal, Austria and Italy, 
 where it forms the staple of food for the poorer 
 population on fast days. It is worth about 2d. 
 
1 6 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 per lb. The small boats that we see outside the 
 bay, are busy collecting bait. The bait they 
 obtain to catch the cod are caplirt, herring and 
 squid, according to the season. We have just 
 missed seeing a lobster factory, as they closed by 
 law on August 5th. The factory, it appears, only 
 consists of an open shed and a stove. As the 
 lobsters are only worth here about three shillings 
 per hundred, it seems that a large profit, by ex- 
 porting them fresh, might be made in England. 
 
 In returning, we drove round Lake Quidi-Vidi 
 and on reaching the top of a hill looked down 
 on a typical fishing settlement. The granite rocks 
 of the coast shut it into a narrow cove, through 
 which courses a stream that finds a narrow outlet 
 to the ocean. The wooden houses are huddled 
 together, finding foundations on and against the 
 rocks, whilst the flakes are run out in all directions 
 over the stream, and men and women are hard at 
 work splitting, salting and drying the last arrived 
 boat-load of fish. 
 
 There was a dinner party at Government House 
 in the evening, where we met Lady Walker, wife 
 of Sir Baldwin Walker, Mr. Bond, Mr. Harvey, 
 and other members of the Government, as well as 
 Mr. Morine, the leader of the opposition. The 
 next day was Sunday, and we experienced a 
 sudden and disagreeable change of climate. It 
 was bitterly cold, and we were glad of fires. But 
 
Our Premier Colony. 1 7 
 
 we have not yet had a real Newfoundland 
 fog. 
 
 We are in great difficulty as to how to leave 
 the island, and find ourselves steamer-bound. 
 That tardy line, the Allan, has a fortnightly 
 service via Halifax to St. John's, but we shall be 
 obliged to take a cargo boat. 
 
 Monday, August 10th. — A midnight embarkation 
 on the Black Diamond Line s.s. Cohan, from the 
 deserted wharves of St. John's. The donkey 
 engine is at work all night, and in the cold grey 
 of early dawn we slipped out of the harbour. 
 There ensued two days and nights of abject 
 misery, only relieved by the sight of land at seven 
 o'clock on Wednesday evening. We enter Glace 
 Bay on the peninsula of Cape Breton. The 
 channel entrance is so narrow that we executed 
 some wonderful nautical manoeuvres before 
 anchoring at the wharf. We are landing on a 
 barren shore, the chief object of interest being a 
 coal shoot with some trucks of coal on it. We 
 are near the great Sydney coal mines, and the 
 country is as bleak and desolate as our Black 
 Country. The sun is sinking, but the air is warm 
 and moist. 
 
 We land at this uninviting place, and after 
 some searchings amongst a half-dazed popula- 
 tion, who seem to show surprise, mingled with 
 resentment, at our intrusion, we find a ramshackle 
 
 C 
 
1 8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 country buggy, in which to drive fourteen miles 
 to Sydney. We are told the track is rough. 
 The light is fast failing. There is only one 
 narrow seat for the somewhat bulky driver and 
 ourselves. For a moment I cannot see where I 
 am to sit. But every second it is growing darker, 
 and with no alternative I scrambled up, and 
 fortunately being small, I was wedged in securely, 
 and during the very rough drive was perhaps 
 the less shaken. The four-year-old pony sorely 
 tried my nerves at starting by shying, and 
 turning sharp round — a fatal thing in these 
 lockless buggies. Our good driver — the local 
 constable — negotiated the worst places, the holes 
 and rocks and fra,il wooden bridges, with great 
 care, and saved us all he could. Still, we suffered 
 severely. 
 
 We passed the two great coal mines of Sydney 
 which supply all the coal to Newfoundland, 
 and much to Canada. It is soft and dirty fuel. 
 We saw the lights of the miners' cottages, and 
 passed some of them returning with an electric 
 lamp in their caps. On and on we drove. The 
 twilight failed, and a pale crescent moon rose, but 
 its dim light only added half-seen terrors to the 
 road, as we drove through dusky pine forests and 
 heard the rush of unseen waters, whilst the lamp 
 of the luggage cart in advance looked like a will- 
 o'-the-wisp dancing up and down. On and on 
 
Oil-?'' Premier Colony. 19 
 
 for what seemed like hours. No dwelling-places 
 in sight, no human being seen, no sound heard, as 
 we crossed in the darkness that isthmus of land 
 between Glace Bay and Sydney. 
 
 After a weary while we at last saw the welcome 
 lights of Sydney, and drove into a sleeping 
 village, only to be told that every room in the 
 place was full. At length a priest and a commer- 
 cial traveller, fellow-passengers from the steamer, 
 found a room, which they gave up to me. It was 
 in a little public-house, but the bedroom was 
 lighted by electricity ! 
 
 We were up at S a.m., and in a torrent of rain 
 drove to the station. The Intercolonial Railway 
 only opened this new line from Sydney across 
 Cape Breton eight months ago. It communicates 
 with the magnificent harbour of Sydney and the 
 exceedingly beautiful Bras d'Or Lakes. We 
 travelled by the shores of several " guts," or inlets 
 from the harbour. Then opens out the broad 
 expanse of the lake itself, surrounded by moun- 
 tains, along the foot of which we are creeping. 
 The name Bras d'Or has such a pretty origin. 
 When the French, in exploring Cape Breton, first 
 saw the lake, it was autumn, and the shores were 
 all golden in their autumnal glory; hence they 
 called it the Golden Arm. For miles we are pass- 
 ing along its shores, which the waters are gently 
 lapping under a leaden sky, and the great mouh- 
 
 G 2 
 
20 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 tains covered with fir forests, rise gloomy and 
 forbidding on the further shore, bathed in clouds 
 and mists. It is a beautiful, though depressing 
 scene. The lake closes in, and its banks nearly 
 meet at the Narrows, which the train crosses on 
 an iron trestle bridge from one shore to the other. 
 There is excellent fishing in this lake, and now 
 that the railway has opened it up, it is sure to 
 become known and largely visited. 
 
 At the Straits of Canso, the contents of the 
 train, including passengers, are embarked on a 
 ferry, and cross the narrow strip of sea that divides 
 Cape Breton from the mainland of Canada. We 
 disembark in Nova Scotia. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE MARITIME PROVINCES, AND THROUGEI 
 LAKE AND FOREST TO THE QUEEN CITY. 
 
 A LONG railway journey. The light streaming 
 into the berth of a sleeper of the Inter-colonial 
 Railway awakes me, and a few minutes afterwards 
 I emerge from between the curtains, to see the 
 morning sun on the dancing waters of Bedford 
 Basin, the land-locked harbour of Halifax. For 
 about ten miles we are skirting this harbour before 
 running into the town. 
 
 Most people would agree in thinking Halifax a 
 charming place. There is nothing in the primi- 
 tive city, with its straight, narrow streets of 
 wooden houses, most of which require a new coat 
 of paint, to make it so. There are few public 
 buildings worthy of notice. But the charm lies in 
 its position on the peninsula of land, with the 
 deep bend in the North-west Arm on one side, 
 and Chebuctoo Bay on the other, leading into 
 Bedford Basin. Thus there is water on every 
 side. 
 
2 2 Newfoundland io Cochin China. 
 
 Halifax has a large official society, and takes 
 some pride in being thought very English in its 
 habits and ways. It owes this to being the 
 one military station left in Canada where there 
 are British troops, and also to its harbouring a 
 naval station, with a resident Admiral and three 
 war-ships at anchor in the bay. The Lieut.- 
 Governor also resides here, and so Halifax' is full 
 of ofificial residences. Each province in Canada 
 has a lieut-governor, who receives the appoint- 
 ment for five years at the hands of the Governor- 
 General, with a moderate salary and an ofificial 
 residence. He is generally some prominent and 
 popular local man, who is thus rewarded for 
 political services by the Premier of the day, who 
 advises the representative of the Crown, and practi- 
 cally confers the post. Each province also has its 
 local parliament, or legislature, which is indepen- 
 dent of the Dominion Parliament, and forms its 
 own laws of internal economy, constituting a body 
 like our County Councils. Thus, in Canadian 
 capitals, their public buildings always include the 
 Parliament House, a Government House, and 
 Ministerial offices. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Francklyn came and took 
 us for a drive in the beautiful park at Point 
 
 1 Licence has been taken somewhat to alter the route 
 actually travelled in the Maritime Provinces, so as to fit it in 
 better as a continuation of my previous book, "Forty 
 Thousand Miles over Land and Water." 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 23 
 
 Pleasant. We skirt along the blue bay, dotted 
 with white sails, for there is a regatta in progress, 
 until we reach the well-named Point Pleasant. 
 This promontory is covered with a magnificent 
 pine forest, through which wind miles of splendid 
 roads, made by companies of the Royal Engineers 
 when stationed here. 
 
 On one side the park is bounded by a deep 
 inlet of the sea, running a long way inland, and 
 which is called the North-west Arm. At a certain 
 point there is a sunlit vista looking up this 
 narrow bay, which is very beautiful. There are 
 pleasant country-houses out here, in one of which 
 Mr. Francklyn resides. It is a perfect afternoon, 
 with warm sunshine, and a pleasant breeze 
 whispering and sighing in the fir-trees. 
 
 Sunday, August 2nd. — In the morning I went to 
 church at St. Paul's. This is a very old wooden 
 building with a spire. There are the same 
 timbers as were used for its construction in i794, 
 when the Hon. E. Cornwallis landed in Chebuctoo 
 Bay with 2000 settlers. He planned this site for 
 the church, and built it on the design sent out by 
 the Imperial Government, which was on the model 
 of St. Peter's, Vere Street. In 1787, when the 
 first Bishop was appointed, he took it for his 
 cathedral. It has taken part in all the great 
 functions connected with the history of Halifax ; 
 and the walls are covered with mural tablets to 
 
24 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 the memory of the generals and admirals who 
 have died on the station. 
 
 We were told to go and see the public garden, 
 which is very well laid out with carpet beds and a 
 miniature river. The gardener is a resident of 
 Halifax, and was sent home to England a short 
 time ago, to model it on our London parks. In 
 the evening we attended the Presbyterian Church 
 to hear Principal Grant preach. Fie is the able, 
 sympathetic and popular Principal of the Kings- 
 ton University. The Presbyterians have a strong 
 following, and fine churches throughout Canada, 
 probably owing to the large number of original 
 Scotch settlers. 
 
 From Halifax we should have gone to St. 
 John, New Brunswick, by Annapolis, through 
 the beautiful country celebrated by Longfellow, 
 and called the Land of Evangeline, and across 
 the Bay of Fundi, but there was doubt as to the 
 hour of arrival of the steamer to be in time for 
 a meeting of the United Empire Trade League. 
 I must here digress a minute to explain that it 
 was no part of our original Canadian tour to 
 practically be "stumping^' the country from Hali- 
 fax to Vancouver on the subject of Imperial 
 Preferential Trade. The meetings were thrust 
 upon my husband, and, once begun, each city 
 claimed its meeting in due course. Albeit, I must 
 confess that he fell in gladly with the arrange- 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 25 
 
 ment. I may fairly say that for over six weeks 
 in Canada, I was the victim of the United Empire 
 Trade League. 
 
 In our schoolroom days we learnt that St. John 
 is the capital of New Brunswick, and Halifax 
 the capital of Nova Scotia. In the weariness of 
 a hot study and the drowsiness of a summer 
 afternoon, we may vaguely wonder of what use 
 this, and much else that we learn, will ever be to 
 us. It is pleasant now to have knowledge 
 triumphantly vindicated, and geography by per- 
 sonal visits made easy. 
 
 Lying on several peninsulas formed by the 
 river of St. John, the harbour, and the Bay of 
 Fundi, the city is surrounded by water. You 
 cannot be many minutes in the town without 
 hearing of the fire of 1877, that great epoch 
 in local history. Beginning in a blacksmith's 
 shop, it destroyed nine miles of streets and an 
 entire portion of the town. We were shown 
 the one building that was left untouched' in the 
 midst of the conflagration, and for what reason 
 no one has ever been able to ascertain. The 
 town was rebuilt with red sandstone, granite and 
 brick. It looks so handsome and substantial when 
 compared to the wooden cities of Halifax and 
 other Canadian towns. 
 
 The Mayor(Mr. Peters), the President of the Board 
 of Trade (Mr. Robertson), met us at the station 
 
26 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 and drove us about the town, and pointed out to 
 us such public buildings as the Custom House, 
 the hospital, the asylum for the insane, etc. My 
 experience goes to tell that they are the same in 
 all cities of the world. We passed rapidly from 
 the summit of one peninsula on to the next, 
 looking down streets that always seem to lead to 
 water. There are pretty views from these heights 
 of the large city, containing 40,000 inhabitants, 
 spread out over these successions of hills, with the 
 harbour dotted with sails below. Far away 
 into the country, the river is seen winding 
 amongst grey, overhanging cliffs and pine-clad 
 mountains. They claim for it scenery as fine as 
 the Hudson. 
 
 But the prettiest view of all is from the Canti- 
 lever Bridge. Here the wide mouth of the St. 
 John river flows through the harbour to the sea, 
 interrupted by rocky islands, clothed in green. 
 They have a great curiosity here in the shape 
 of a reversible waterfall. The tide at the mouth 
 of the river rises and falls as much as forty feet. 
 As the river flows seawards it is forced by the 
 volume of water coming down the river over a 
 ridge of rock, and forms a waterfall into the 
 harbour at low tide. "When the tide turns, the 
 salt water is forced backwards up the river, 
 and forms a waterfall the reverse way. 
 
 St. John was founded by the United Loyalists. 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 27 
 
 The other day there was a touching incident of 
 a brave boy who went out in a storm here and 
 saved the life of a child, perishing in the attempt. 
 Subscriptions poured in for the erection of a 
 public monument. They proposed to erect it 
 on a spot we were shown, but in excavating they 
 came upon the well-preserved coffins of twenty 
 of these United Loyalists. 
 
 The city is the centre of a great lumber trade ; 
 30,000 yards of timber are cut on the banks of 
 the river annually and floated down to St. John's. 
 They have free and undenominational education. 
 The streets are paved with blocks of cedar. 
 Electric light is in general and domestic use. 
 Altogether, St. John is a most enlightened and 
 advanced city. 
 
 We got into the " cars " at night for a long 
 journey of two days and two nights to Toronto. 
 
 Through the State of Maine we sped at night ; 
 one of the two American total Prohibitionist 
 States. Though saving 200 miles by this route, 
 it seems a pity that the C. P. R. could not keep 
 their line in Canadian territory, as, in the event 
 of war with America, or one in which she was 
 a neutral ally, her connections could be severed. 
 
 During this long journey of 1500 miles from 
 Cape Breton, through the Maritime Provinces, to 
 the more cultivated and open country of Ontario, 
 the scenery has been beautiful but monotonous. 
 
28 N ewfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 There are two features which repeat themselves 
 over and over again to the eye, the ear and the 
 senses : they are that Canada is a land of many 
 forests, and that Canada is a land of many 
 waters. 
 
 For many hundreds of miles we passed through 
 the midst of these enduring spruce forests, the 
 narrow track whose path has been roughly cleared 
 by burning, extending with its thin thread of 
 iron through their densest growth, lost through 
 their trackless depths. On either side of the 
 clearing through these mighty forests, there is a belt 
 of blackened stumps of grey^ armless stems, where 
 the fire has passed over them. Sometimes even 
 there will be one green living tree left standing 
 among the dead. And these dull grey mutilated 
 trees look quite pathetic in their pale nakedness, 
 leaning hither and thither, and finding support 
 across one another, as if falling in their last 
 agony, or lying dead and uprooted on the 
 ground. They exercise quite a fascination as 
 they continue for mile after mile in their dying 
 contortions, whilst in the background there are their 
 living brethren, so green, hardy and dense in their 
 growth. The ground beneath is strewn with 
 blackened snags that are partly covered with green 
 moss and ferns, their fresh growth mingling with 
 these dark reminiscences of man's ruthless hands. 
 In sedgy places there are beds of waving bulrushes, 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 29 
 
 and sometimes a few wild flowers, such as the 
 fox-glove, the mimosa, and the golden-rod. 
 
 Hundreds of acres of these lumber forests are on 
 every side, and indeed, a large proportion of the 
 Dominion is covered with these mighty stretches 
 of pine and spruce. There are other varieties such 
 as maple, birch and poplar, but the spruce fir is 
 the chief growth, as it covers all the land that is 
 not cleared or occupied by water. We see piles 
 of ready-cut timber, stacked for transport, or cars 
 laden with it at every station. The rivers and 
 lakes are full of floating timber, and abandoned 
 rafts. Frequently the whole surface of the river 
 will be blocked with lumber, which, carried by the 
 current, arranges itself transversely in floating 
 down. This generally happens near a town or 
 village. For miles away up these deep valleys, 
 there are men busy lumbering all the summer. 
 They cut down and strip the trees of bark and then 
 float the lumber down to the nearest place for 
 export. We constantly pass sawing mills where 
 water power is used for the machinery. The bark 
 is only useful for " kindling " or firewood. Some 
 of the wood is crushed to pulp and used for the 
 manufacture of paper. 
 
 Occasionally in the middle of these forests the 
 engine will startle us with an unearthly whistle. It 
 is a sign that we are approaching a human habita- 
 tion, and in a rough clearing we pass two or three 
 
30 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 wooden huts, with- a potato patch mingling with 
 the black stumps, and women and children at the 
 door. One pities their solitary life, shut in by the 
 impenetrable forest, and wonders how they obtain 
 supplies. Sometimes there is a larger clearing 
 with more attempts at farming, but where the 
 fields, though divided off, are still a mass of charred 
 stumps. 
 
 This work of clearing by the Eastern settler must 
 be terribly disheartening. There is, first of all, a 
 dense under-growth to be hewn through and piled 
 up ready for burning. This when dry kindles the 
 conflagration which is to help so materially in the 
 task. After a spell of dry weather and with the 
 wind in the direction he wishes to clear, it must 
 be joy to the settler to see the flames leaping up 
 and hungrily devouring the trees. The fiercer and 
 longer the fire lasts and the cleaner it burns, the 
 more pleased he is, and when it dies down he must 
 look sadly around at the trees still standing, know- 
 ing that now each one must be cut down by 
 his own labour. Then each blackened stump and 
 snag must be grubbed up singly. This is work 
 done by the sweat of the brow. It is tedious, 
 laborious and apparently endless. Occasionally 
 you come across a beautifully cleaned piece 
 of ground, which is pleasant to look upon, but 
 generally the land is roughly cleared, in fact you 
 wonder how the few cows and sheep find sufficient 
 
The Maritime Provinces. -Ji 
 
 green sustenance among such a black outlook of 
 burnt stumps. The enormous waste of valuable 
 timber by this rough-and-ready method of clear- 
 ing seems to us reckless prodigality, but the settler 
 surrounded by miles of similar forests cannot see 
 it in this light. 
 
 The variety^of rough wooden fences, with their 
 ingenious inventions to save labour and time, 
 become a source of interest. The roughest kind 
 are formed of the roots of trees, turned on their 
 sides, the roots forming a thorny fence. It is 
 picturesque, untidy,. but practical for its purpose, 
 and is called a " snag " fence. Others are formed 
 of timber stakes of every description, some with 
 barbed wire. This, however, is too expensive to 
 be largely used. But the prettiest of all are the 
 snake fences. Very easy of construction, they run 
 along in graceful zig-zags. 
 
 The land cleared, and the ground fenced off, the 
 building of the house comes next. This is a land 
 of lumber, and of course the house is made of 
 wood. They are simple and easy of construction, 
 being of one story with a door in the centre and a 
 window on either side. The door must be covered 
 with wire netting, for the flies in the forest amount 
 to a pest. They are lined with planked wood 
 inside and out, and the roof is covered with 
 shingles or flat strips of wood nailed on like tiles. 
 Between the outside and inside there is a lining of 
 
2)2 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 paper tarred thickly over. This makes the house 
 air-tight. In Canada a large proportion of the 
 dwelling-houses are built of wood. Montreal and 
 Toronto have streets of handsome stone houses, 
 and in all Canadian towns the public buildings 
 and offices in the city are of stone or brick. Still, 
 wooden houses largely predominate throughout the 
 Dominion. It seems curious, but arctic as the 
 winters are, these wooden houses are more suited 
 than stone to the climate. In the latter the mortar 
 absorbs and gives off damp in a thaw, whilst the 
 wooden houses are dry, air-tight and extremely 
 comfortable. Most of the houses have furnaces in 
 the basement, which heats the warm air in the 
 pipes of each room, or at all events a stove in the 
 hall. This and double windows are a necessity in 
 the winter. 
 
 During this long journey, we are again im- 
 pressed with the volume and extent of the lakes 
 and rivers. The country is absolutely fretted with 
 these fresh-water lakes, which are full of salmon 
 and trout. Some are very large, like Lake Megan- 
 tic, which we pass, and which is twelve miles long ; 
 or Moosehead, which is forty miles long and from 
 one. to fifteen miles broad. Others are only like 
 large ponds. Then there are broad rivers, deep 
 and strong ; wide rivers, shallow and rapid, and 
 mountain torrents, brown and babbling. But it is 
 always water everywhere, still or running, silent 
 
The Maritime Pyovinces. 33 
 
 or noisy, blue or greea according to its depth. 
 If you read for a little while, or your attention is 
 turned away from the car window, on looking up 
 again there is sure to be more water in sight. 
 
 We now re-visited Ottawa, Montreal, and 
 Toronto in the interests of, and for meetings of, 
 the United Empire Trade League, after a lapse of 
 six years. At the capital kindly, enthusiastic, 
 and hospitable was the official and parliamentary 
 welcome to my husband, but we heard much of 
 the " scandals," and of the loss to the country of 
 Sir John Macdonald. Of the former subject we 
 weary, as of the extravagant language which fills 
 the papers, the following being ' a specimen of the 
 daily head-lines : — ■ 
 
 "Boodle and Bungle." "The Slime of the 
 Serpent is over Them All." " A Story of Greed, 
 Incompetence, Extravagance and Muddle." 
 " Another Public Works Scandal," etc. 
 
 Montreal, with its natural attractions of the 
 St. Lawrence and the Mountain, is little changed. 
 But Toronto has grown enormously, and is now 
 approached through some miles of suburbs. The 
 Torontonians claim that their " Queen City " has 
 increased in the last few years more than any 
 other on this Continent, not excepting any in the 
 United States. They may well be proud of it. 
 
 On Saturday, August 22nd, we left Toronto, 
 and five hours in the cars brought us to Owen 
 
 D 
 
34 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Sound. This part of the line was laid by an 
 English engineer, who they say had never laid a 
 railway before ; it was taken over by the C.P.R. 
 and was incorporated into their great line. It is not 
 difficult to believe that this was the case, for the 
 car narrowly escapes derailment by the roughness 
 of the road. 
 
 Owen Sound is the point of departure for the 
 C.P.R. steamers across the lakes of Huron and 
 Superior. I think it is a preferable route to the 
 railway^ as it saves two days and two nights in the 
 cars. The steamers are very comfortable and 
 well arranged. They are constructed to carry a 
 large cargo. On this voyage the cargo consists of 
 agricultural machinery going out west for the 
 harvest, and soon it will be the grain of the north- 
 west which they will be carrying to the east. 
 They have a capacity for 40,000 bushels of grain, 
 and they are constructed in such a way that the 
 grain can be shipped direct to and from the steamer 
 by the grain elevator. 
 
 For several hours we steam through the Georgian 
 Bay or southern extremity of Lake Huron. It is 
 a pretty inlet with forested banks, and a great 
 expanse of smooth blue water. It is difficult to 
 realize the vast area of space covered by these 
 Canadian lakes. Lake Huron, which we have 
 been crossing all night, covers 28,000 square miles; 
 Lake Superior, which we are about to enter, has 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 35 
 
 30,000 square miles.- Lakes Erie, Winnipeg, 
 Michigan, and Ontario, must be added to these • 
 miniature oceans. And we are not surprised to 
 find, that Canada claims to have one quarter of 
 the whole of the fresh water of the globe on her 
 surface. 
 
 The next morning the banks of Lake Huron 
 are drawing closer together, leaving us a narrow 
 channel staked out in the centre. We are passing 
 a regular procession of barges. There are as 
 many as three being towed in line, and as the 
 passage is narrow and devious, we could shake 
 hands in passing. Also, as we salute each one, 
 and are saluted, with a threefold whistle, the noise 
 is continuous and wearing. These barges are 
 laden chiefly with lumber, but some have coal, 
 grain, and ore. 
 
 We enter the narrow mouth of the Sault Ste. 
 Marie River, commonly called by the Americans 
 the " Soo." This river is the outlet between the 
 waters of Lake Huron and Lake Superior. There 
 is a fall of forty-two feet. It is a broad and muddy 
 river, and on the right hand we have American 
 soil, and on the left Canadian. Perched on the 
 bridge in the crisp morning air, the views are very 
 pretty. The mountains, as always, are covered 
 with the dark blue-green of the familiar pines. 
 The banks are clothed in brilliant green, just mellow- 
 ing into yellow under autumn's golden hand. We 
 D 2 
 
36 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 are shown a quarry of valuable variegated marble 
 in the mountain side, which is proving inexhausti- 
 ble. Then we pass the wreck of the Pontiac. 
 She was run down by her sister ship four weeks 
 ago, and lies helplessly across the course, her bows 
 stove in, and the bridge and hurricane deck only 
 above water. They are pumping her out, gallons 
 of water pouring from her rent side. 
 
 Ten miles of this ascent of the river, and bending 
 round a corner, we come in sight of Sault Ste. Marie. 
 Like so many other places, the town has been 
 created by the developing energy of the C.P.R., 
 whose cantilever railway bridge we see crossing the 
 river, but it is typical of the energy and " go " of the 
 Americans, that on their side of the river there is 
 a town, whilst on the Canadian it is only a village. 
 At Sault Ste. Marie there are some pretty rapids 
 which you can shoot in a canoe. Communication 
 between the two great waterways of Lakes 
 Superior and Huron is by a lock, where the water 
 rises and falls sixteen feet. The lock is on the 
 American side, but the Canadians are making a 
 deeper one of twenty-two feet. This Soo Canal 
 is of the greatest commercial importance. Sixty 
 vessels, in the summer season, pass through it 
 daily, or more, they allege, than through the Suez 
 Canal. 
 
 There was a long procession of steamers and 
 barges waiting on either side for their turn. It is 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 37 
 
 so shallow that little way can be allowed to the 
 ships in passing in and out, and for two hours and 
 a half we sat and were quite amused watching the 
 skill which packed three large steam barges into 
 this narrow canal. It must not be thought that 
 these steam barges are like our dirty barges on 
 the Thames or on English canals. They have a 
 tonnage of 1500 or 2000 tons, and are as smart 
 as white paint and polished brass can make them, 
 being lighted, too, by electricity. 
 
 These great lakes have a complete through 
 connection to the ocean by means of rivers, 
 locks, and canals. Recently the whale-back 
 boat was taken from Chicago by this route to the 
 Atlantic and across to London. But as the com- 
 merce from the West increases, the canals will 
 require widening and deepening. This through, 
 waterway will have an important bearing on the 
 commercial development of Canada. Its draw- 
 back is that from November until April the lakes 
 are frozen. We, who travel through Canada in 
 the summer, forget what a different aspect the 
 country assumes, when for six months of the year 
 it is frost and snow bound. 
 
 A few hours after passing the Soo Canal, we 
 had left the flat banks behind us, and passed out 
 on to the ocean-like waters of Lake Superior, 
 across which we steamed for ten hours. 
 
 At eight o'clock there is the great purple pro- 
 
J 
 
 8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 montory of Cape Thunder in sight. It is a bold 
 outline against the pale morning sky, clear, with a 
 keen north wind It shelters inside the circular 
 bay of Thunder, with Port Arthur at its head. 
 We pass Silver Island, where thousands of dollars' 
 worth of silver have been raised and sunk 
 again. 
 
 After the mine had been opened, the sea broke 
 in, and a crib had to be constructed. The silver is 
 there, but the difficulties in raising it seem insuper- 
 able. The whole of Cape Thunder is formed of 
 mineral deposits. 
 
 We land at Port Arthur. It is a sad place. 
 The C.P.R. has ruined the rising town by 
 choosing Fort William, five miles further up the 
 river, for its lake port. The once thriving place is 
 deserted, the shops closing, the large hotel empty. 
 Such is the power of a great monopoly ; it creates 
 and destroys by a stroke of the pen. 
 
 Before leaving the Alberta at Fort William, the 
 time is put back an hour. It recedes as we travel 
 westward, and advances for east-bound travellers. 
 The time of the Dominion is taken from Montreal, 
 and is numbered, for convenience and business 
 purposes, consecutively, that is to say, they have 
 no a.m. or p.m. to confuse their train-service, and 
 their watches have the double numbers, and one 
 p.m. becomes thirteen, and two p.m. fourteen, and 
 so on. A proposition has just been made in the 
 
The Maritime Provinces. 39 
 
 Dominion Parliament to equalize the time, but it 
 will not pass, at all events, this session. 
 
 Fort William was one of the advanced posts of 
 the Hudson Bay Company. It is now a swamp 
 laid out in streets at right angles, with wooden 
 houses, overshadowed by some enormous grain 
 elevators. Doubtless it has a great future before 
 it. We wait here five long hours for the west-bound 
 train. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 BY THE GOLDEN WAVE TO THE FAR WEST. 
 
 Our journey to the Far West, through golden 
 wheat, began at Fort William ; from there the 
 Canadian Pacific takes us across to the ocean. 
 
 The C.P.R., with its 2990 miles of railway, is 
 the iron girdle that binds Canada together from 
 the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. She gives 
 cohesion to this conglomerate whole, with its 
 varieties of climate and production. Every mile of 
 the line is worth a mile of gold to the country, for 
 at every place where she lays down a station, that 
 place becomes a town, a centre of population, 
 civilization, and wealth to the surrounding district. 
 This railway has been the great explorer, the 
 great colonizer, the great wealth producer of 
 Canada. It is the artery of the body of the 
 Dominion. 
 
 One has constantly to remember that six or 
 seven years ago all this country through which 
 we are passing was an unexplored wilderness. 
 A little band of plate-layers, headed by a surveyor. 
 
To the Far West. 41 
 
 true pioneers, must have forced their way through, 
 hewing trees, blasting rock, and making the silent 
 woods resound with the voice of civilization, 
 occasionally coming across the track of some 
 Indian encampment or the marks of a bear. It 
 must have required great forethought and 
 organization from headquarters to have the plant 
 and stores ready to push on day by day, whilst 
 the railway in rear acted as the pioneers' single 
 communication with the outside world, as they 
 plunged deeper and deeper into the forests. The 
 average speed of construction was about five miles 
 a day, and the greatest length laid in one day 
 was twelve and a half miles. The portion of 
 line between Port Arthur and Fort William was 
 the most difficult to devise. Indeed, several 
 times the engineers despaired. The railway is 
 divided into divisional sections, with a super- 
 intendent at each. These again are divided into 
 sections, with a surveyor in charge ; and we 
 frequently pass their lonely section houses. Every 
 portion of the line is inspected once a day, the 
 workmen using a trolly, which can be lifted on and 
 off the track. It is a single line, and there is only 
 one passenger train daily east and west. 
 
 The trains are very long and heavy, often con- 
 sisting of eight or nine cars some eighty feet in 
 length, weighing as much as fifty tons each. They 
 would jump the track if lighter. Our train to- 
 
42 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 day was of this length, and carried a human 
 freight of 286 persons, exclusive of the numerous 
 officials. The sleepers or sleeping-cars are most 
 elegant, with their polished pine wood inlaid with 
 mother-of-pearl, and their pale sea-green brocade 
 hangings. 
 
 The colonist cars on these trains are excellent, 
 and always, we noticed, well filled. They have 
 berths like the sleeper, only with no upholstery, 
 but the colonist can buy a mattress and pillow at 
 Montreal for a dollar or two. They have a stove 
 where they can cook their own provisions, and on 
 landing from the ocean steamers they get into this 
 car, live in it, and come as far west as they want 
 to without change or stoppage. 
 
 From Fort William we passed through a wild, 
 rocky country, following the line of the Kaminis- 
 tiquia, a shallow river scrambling over a rocky 
 course. There are a few of these soft liquid 
 Indian names, embodying some symbolical or 
 romantic ideal, still left ; but they are fast dying 
 out, and the practical settler is changing them to 
 a more prosaic but pronounceable nomenclature. 
 
 It was through this lonely district, then, un- 
 explored by white man, that for ninety-five days 
 Wolseley, in 1870, led his troops against the 
 Indians. They marched 1000 miles from Fort 
 William to Fort Garry, utilizing the water-way of 
 the lakes and rivers where possible. At Savanne 
 
To the Far West. 43 
 
 we see two of his flat-bottomed boats, lying rotting 
 in the stream near an Indian village. 
 
 We have dinner in the private car of Mr. How- 
 land and Mr. Wilkie, the chairman and general 
 manager of the Imperial Bank of Toronto. 
 Seated at the end of the train, we watch the twin 
 lines of railway uncoiling themselves in a straight 
 line for mile after mile. An occasional section- 
 house, a station, which is often only a wooden shed 
 on a platform, a board with the number of the 
 section on it, and, at long intervals, a huge red tank 
 for watering the engine, is all we see. Night 
 closes in on this lonely country, and we sleep in 
 our berths, while the engine steams and pants 
 along into the darkness, hour after hour through 
 the long, long night. 
 
 In the cold early morning we reach Rat 
 Portage, passing from the state of Ontario into 
 Manitoba. Rat Portage is a wooden village of 
 1400 inhabitants (this is considered quite a goodly 
 population for this sparsely-peopled country); 
 and has the largest flour mill in Canada. It lies at 
 the outlet of the beautiful Lake of the Woods, 
 which is forty miles long and studded with 
 islands. 
 
 A brake has broken and the train is divided, 
 the first half taking on the dining-car. Hungry 
 and impatient, the passengers wait for another to be 
 attached, and stand on the carriage platform ready 
 
44 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 to rush on board. But, as it passes, a howl of 
 disappointed hunger goes up, for some knowing 
 ones have jumped ofiP the cars, and filled it before 
 it leaves the siding. 
 
 We are still travelling through the same rock- 
 bound country, ungainly masses of rock protrud- 
 ing through a scrub growth of dwarf trees. We 
 continually pass beautiful lakes, placid sheets of 
 water hidden away in hollows. This is succeeded 
 by a run through some " muskeg " or black peaty 
 bog land, where flourish rank grasses against a 
 background of bushy poplar trees. 
 
 Thirty or forty miles from Winnipeg the 
 country opens out and gradually assumes a prairie 
 character. The land is quite flat now, covered 
 with coarse yellow grasses, and sprinkled with 
 wild flowers. It is a rich feast of colours. There 
 are great patches of gorgeous wild sunflowers, 
 masses of purple and white michaelmas daisies, 
 growing more plenteously here on the open prairie, 
 than when cultivated in our cottage gardens at 
 home ; there are bluebells and lupins, blue, pink, 
 and white, marsh mallows, cyclamen, and acres of 
 that weed-like growth, the golden rod. Isolated 
 houses, becoming more frequent, tell us we are 
 nearing Winnipeg. We cross the Red river and 
 are in the station. 
 
 Winnipeg is the old Fort Garry settlement 
 of the Hudson Bay Company. Twenty years ago, 
 
To the Far West. 45 
 
 or in 1871, its population was 100, now, in 1891, it 
 is 30,000. 
 
 The town is set down in the midst of the prairie. 
 Main street follows the winding of the old Indian 
 trail which takes in the deep bend of the Red 
 river. The City Hall in this street, or " on " as 
 the Canadians would say, is a very handsome 
 new-looking structure. It front of it stands the 
 column erected to the memory of the soldiers who 
 fell in the North- West rebellion of 1870. It is 
 surmounted by a volunteer on guard, wrapped in 
 his fur coat, and with his fur cap on his head. 
 The streets are paved with blocks of wood, but 
 the foot pavements are still boarded ; indeed 
 Winnipeg is a strange mixture, with Eastern 
 civilization meeting in this border city, the Western 
 or rough-and-ready methods of the settler. It is 
 only interesting on this account. 
 
 In the streets there are bullock carts bringing 
 in cradles of hay from the prairie ; sulkies, which 
 are constructed of two wheels and a tiny board for 
 a driver's seat ; and buckboards, used for purposes 
 of all kinds. Nor must I forget the little carts with 
 their tandems of dogs. These are a mongrel breed, 
 and are much used, especially in winter, when they 
 are driven four, six, or a dozen in hand in sleighs. 
 As we get further west, the breed of horses 
 improves. There are country yokels with burnt 
 faces, coarse straw hat, and flannel shirt, gazing 
 
46 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 open-mouthed at the store windows, for Winnipeg 
 is to them what London is to our country lads. 
 Here is a family party of Indians emerging from 
 a shop with numerous parcels, to the evident joy 
 of the squaw. But what strikes you so much is^ 
 that you may pass from this handsome street of 
 fine stores, straight out on to the broad expanse of 
 prairie. 
 
 On the block of Government land stands the 
 fine group of stone buildings of the Parliament 
 House, together with the Ministerial offices for the 
 Province of Manitoba, the Governor's residence, 
 and the wooden barracks enclosed in a square. 
 We stayed at the Clarendon Hotel, whose days are 
 I fear numbered, as the Northern Pacific Company 
 are just completing a magnificent red sandstone 
 hostelry. It is shown as one of the sights of 
 Winnipeg. 
 
 Mrs. AdamSj wife of an old Royal Welsh brother- 
 officer of my husband's, kindly took m.e for a 
 drive in the afternoon. On the outskirts of the 
 town the Assiniboine river takes a deep bend, in 
 which there is some woodland. Trees are scarce 
 on the prairie, and what there are — poplar, oak 
 and maple — are all stunted in their growth from 
 exposure to the north-west blast, which sweeps in 
 winter across the great waste, a piercing, biting 
 wind blowing from over acres and acres of snow. 
 In this green belt there are many handsome 
 
To the Far West. 47 
 
 houses, built ia an ambitious style of architecture, 
 with towers and porticoes and balustrades. They 
 were chiefly constructed during the great " boom " 
 of nine years ago, a disastrous event that has left 
 its mark. The town still suffers from the troubles 
 which quickly followed. Families are yet living 
 under the cloud of the financial bankruptcy which 
 then overtook them. 
 
 In 1872, Winnipeg, with a sudden awakening, 
 realized the immense future before her as the 
 capital of the Far West. Land was quickly bought 
 up. Large prices given and realized. Houses 
 were built on a magnificent scale. Crowds 
 flocked in from all parts of Canada to share in the 
 coming prosperity, A complete collapse followed. 
 The bubble had burst. 
 
 The meaning of a " boom '' may be thus simply 
 exemplified. A buys a piece of land from B, 
 and pays half the price down as a first instalment. 
 He sells to C at an increased price, who, in his 
 turn, does ditto to D. At length B, the original 
 seller, calls for payment. C and D are unable to 
 meet the call, and are ruined in endeavouring to 
 do so, and the land is thrown back on A, who is 
 in the same position, and B has it thrown on his 
 hands, and never having in the first place received 
 full payment, is also ruined, for he has speculated 
 with the money. All classes had taken part in 
 this " wild land speculation," and all were involved 
 
48 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 in the collapse. Houses were closed (for they 
 could not be sold, as there were no purchasers) or 
 are only, as we now see them, partially lived in. 
 Winnipeg is slowly recovering from this " boom," 
 and with the youth and energy of a young city 
 will renew her prosperity. 
 
 Passing the ruined gateway of the old Fort 
 Garry, we appropriately come, to the Hudson Bay 
 Store. It is contained in a large block of build- 
 ings, and is a new departure in the trade once 
 absorbed by that great and powerful fur-trading 
 company. They first explored the country, 
 owned it, and kept up friendly relations with the 
 Indians. It was one of those great trading 
 monopolies, owned by merchants, and which have 
 done so much for the wealth and commerce of 
 England. The Hudson Bay Company has accom- 
 plished in a minor degree for Canada, what the 
 East India Company did for India. This shop 
 may truly be called the Army and Navy stores of 
 the West, for it contains everything from brocades " 
 and Paris mantles (which are bought by the 
 squaws) furs, carpets, groceries, to Indian blankets, 
 pipes and bead work. In this bead work the 
 blending of colours is exquisite. At the last 
 Louis Riel rebellion, the wholesale department 
 outfitted and provisioned at twenty-four hours' 
 notice, 600 soldiers for thirty days. 
 
 We then visited the tennis club. I am im- 
 
To the Far West. 49 
 
 pressed with the immense utility of this popular 
 game, which, if useful in England, performs a 
 large social duty in all Canadian towns. It forms 
 a mild daily excitement, and a meeting place for 
 all, and is especially useful in a country where, 
 with the impossibility of obtaining servants, en- 
 tertaining is a difficult matter. 
 
 Canon O'Meara took us one morning to the 
 outskirts of the city to see the cathedral. Lying 
 out in the country and built of wood, it resembles 
 a simple village church. The surrounding 
 cemetery is full of handsome monuments, and 
 here lie many victims of the boom. The most 
 interesting monument is the granite sarcophagus, 
 engraved with seven names, surrounded by laurel 
 wreaths of the victims of the last rebellion. Their 
 remains were brought back here to be buried, 
 with an impressive public funeral. 
 
 We visited the Bishop of Rupert's Land in his 
 adjoining house. He is Metropolitan of eight 
 bishoprics, and has an enormous diocese reaching 
 into the unexplored regions of the Mackenzie 
 River. He has organized a college on the model 
 of an English University, and which confers 
 degrees. 
 
 Studying the working of the Church in Canada, 
 one recognizes some arguments in favour of 
 Disestablishment. In Canada there is no State 
 endowment, and the clergy are supported by 
 
 E 
 
50 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 voluntary contributions. This money comes 
 partly from pew rents, and is greatly assisted 
 by the envelope system. By this method the 
 parishioner covenants to give a certain sum a 
 year for the maintenance of his church, by fixed 
 weekly Sunday instalments. He is furnished with 
 fifty-two envelopes, on which his name is printed, 
 and these contributions are entered in a book. 
 There appears to be no difficulty in raising funds 
 by these means, particularly if the clergyman is 
 popular. If he is unpopular, or his doctrines un- 
 acceptable or extreme, he suffers by the falling off 
 of his income. This system, moreover, has the 
 advantage of giving every man an interest in his 
 church. A clergyman observed that several 
 members of his congregation appeared at church 
 for 'the first time on the establishment of this 
 envelope system. " Oh, yes," they said, in 
 response to his remark, " we have got some stock 
 in this concern now." 
 
 It works particularly smoothly where the bishop, 
 adapting himself to the needs of a new country, 
 admits the principle that those who pay must 
 choose. They require, however, a Clergy Dis- 
 cipline Act as much as we do. 
 
 Mr. Robinson took us in the afternoon for a drive 
 across the prairie to Sir Donald Smith's model 
 farm at Silver Heights, where there are three 
 splendid specimens of the now extinct buffalo 
 
To the Far West. 5 1 
 
 some of the few left of those vast herds that 
 used to roam the prairie. The farm takes its name 
 from the adjoining wood of silver poplar trees. 
 
 C. visited tlie venerable French Archbishop 
 Tache. He told him that he came out forty-six 
 years ago, and that it took him then sixty-two days 
 to travel from Montreal, what he can now perform in 
 sixty-two hours. He showed the inkstand from 
 which his uncle, the Premier of Quebec, Sir Etienne 
 Tache, signed the Confederation Act of Canada. 
 
 Thursday, August 27 tk. — Before leaving Winni- 
 peg Major Heward gave us an early inspection 
 at the barracks of the Mounted Infantry. They are 
 smart and well-mounted on brancho horses, reared 
 in the west. We also inspected the chief of the 
 three fire stations. They have a chemical 
 steamer. In this the water is mixed with carbolic 
 acid gas. Fire being supported by oxygen, the 
 carbolic gas, when thrown on it, extinguishes the 
 supply of oxygen, and with it the fire. The fire 
 bell, in sounding, throws open the stable door and 
 the horses trot out by themselves and place their 
 necks under the suspended collar, which descends 
 and is fastened by a patent bolt. 
 
 The west-bound trains all stop at Winnipeg for 
 five hours to allow time for the colonists to visit 
 the Railway and Dominion Land Offices, and to 
 obtain information respecting selections of lands. 
 The land in the North-West Provinces has now 
 E 3 
 
52 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 been surveyed and allotted thus for twenty-four 
 miles each side of the line. In a township of 
 thirty-six sections of 640 acres, or one square mile 
 to each section, the Dominion retains roughly one 
 half, whilst the CP.R. retains the other. There 
 are two sections reserved for school purposes, 
 that the value of the land may make the schools 
 free and self-supporting, two sections for the Hud- 
 son Bay Company, and the Canada North- West 
 Land Company have bought others. The diagram 
 on page 53 will show the division of sections. 
 
 The station was crowded with large parties of 
 emigrants, as many settlers leave their families 
 here, whilst choosing their sections further west. 
 There are bundles of bedding, tin cooking utensils, 
 with bird cages and babies in promiscuous heaps. 
 
 As we pass out of the station we see the enor- 
 mous plant and rolling stock of the C.P.R., which 
 has here its half-way depot between Montreal and 
 Vancouver. They have twenty miles of sidings, 
 which are now full of plant waiting to be pressed 
 forward, to bring down the harvest to the coast. 
 
 We are out on the prairie at once, on that great 
 billowy sea of brown and yellow grass ; monotonous 
 it is, and yet pleasing in its quiet, rich, monotones 
 of colour. The virgin soil is of rich black loam. 
 The belt of unsettled land round Winnipeg is 
 caused by the land being held by speculators, but 
 after that we pass many pleasant farms, clustering 
 
To the Far West. 
 
 53 
 
 more thickly around Portage le Prairie, a rising 
 
 town. We pass a freight train entirely composed 
 
 TOWNSHIP DIAGRAM. 
 
 
 640 Acres. 
 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ....31.... 
 
 .,..32.... 
 
 ....%%.... 
 
 ....^4..... 
 
 ....^i;.... 
 
 ...Ae.... 
 
 H 
 
 OO 
 
 ••••ot 
 
 00 — 
 
 .... ju.... 
 
 
 ....%o.... 
 
 School 
 ....2Q... 
 
 ....28.... 
 
 ....27.... 
 
 H.B. 
 ....26.... 
 
 ....2 K.... 
 
 
 
 Lands. 
 
 
 
 Lands. 
 
 
 
 ,...IQ.... 
 
 ....20.... 
 
 ....2 I .... 
 
 ....22.... 
 
 ....21.... 
 
 ....24.... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 w. 
 
 ,...18.... 
 
 .... I 7.. 
 
 ....16... 
 
 ....I ^.... 
 
 ....Izl.... 
 
 ....!■?.... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .... 7 .... 
 
 H.B. 
 
 ... 8 .... 
 
 .... Q .... 
 
 ....10.... 
 
 School 
 
 ....I I.... 
 
 ....12.... 
 
 
 Lands. 
 
 
 
 Lands. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 C 
 
 /L .. . 
 
 .... X .... 
 
 . .. 1 .... 
 
 .... I .... 
 
 
 
 .... p .... 
 
 
 
 
 s. 
 
 The above diagram shows the manner in which the 
 country is surveyed. It represents a township— that is, a 
 tract of land six miles square, containing 36 sections of one 
 mile square each. These sections are subdivided into 
 quarter sections of 160 acres each. 
 
 of refrigerator cars, containing that bright pink 
 salmon from British Columbia, which is a luxury 
 in the east and a drug in the west. The engine 
 
54 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 bears a trophy of a sheaf of corn, to show that the 
 harvest in the west has already begun. 
 
 Out of the whole year we could not have chosen 
 a more favourable monient for visiting the North- 
 West, as the harvest is in full swing. We are at 
 this moment passing through a sea of golden grain, 
 acre after acre extending in an unbroken line to 
 the horizon. Indeed we are told that these wheat 
 fields form a continuous belt some forty miles deep 
 on either side of the railway. 
 
 It would be difficult for anyone living even in 
 the east of Canada, to realize the enormous interest 
 shown in the crops and weather out here. For 
 months and weeks beforehand it forms a general 
 topic of conversation, but, as August closes in, it 
 becomes the one and all absorbing concern. The 
 newspapers are scanned for the daily weather 
 reports. Warnings are telegraphed broadcast 
 through the land. As Professor Goldwin Smith 
 says, in his book " Canada and the Canadian 
 Question," "Just before the harvest the weather 
 is no commonplace topic, and a deep anxiety 
 broods over the land." 
 
 The interests at stake are enormous, involving 
 as they do the question to many of prosperity or 
 ruin. One cold night, or one touch of frost may 
 destroy the labour of a year. This year the 
 promise is exceptional, and the prospect was bright 
 until a week ago. Then there were ominous 
 
To the Far West. 55 
 
 whispers of frost. These early and late frosts are 
 the scourge of the farmer, and the lateness of the 
 harvest, owing to an exceptionally cold summer, 
 increases the anxiety. Day by day, hour by hour, 
 the temperature is discussed with earnestness, in- 
 creasing with intensity as evening approaches. The 
 other night thei-e were people in Winnipeg going 
 up and down Main Street all night and striking 
 matches to look at the thermometer placed there. 
 The interest to all was so vital that they could not 
 rest. There are warnings published in bulletins to 
 farmers, to light smudge fires to keep the frost 
 from the wheat. These fires of stubble, lighted to 
 the north or north-west of the fields, by raising the 
 temperature two or three degrees, keep off the 
 frost, and the dread of smutted wheat. We see 
 these smudge fires smouldering as we pass along. 
 The virgin soil will yield as much as forty to 
 fifty bushels of wheat an acre, and from fifty to 
 sixty of oats. Manures are unknown and un- 
 wanted by these western farmers. The land has 
 only to be "scratched with a plough," and the field 
 will often yield a rich harvest of 500 acres of 
 wheat. The hum of the harvest is heard in all the 
 land, and we see for miles the golden grain waiting 
 to be gathered, and the " reapers and binders ' 
 hard at work. This machine is an ingenious 
 American invention, which cuts and binds at the 
 same time. There is a string inside which is given 
 
56 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 a twist, a knife comes down and cuts the strings 
 and throws out the sheaf. It is pretty to watch 
 the rhythmical precision with which sheaf after 
 sheaf, thus cut and tied, is thrown out on the track 
 of- the machine. The sheaves are then piled into 
 generous stacks and left for a fortnight to dry. 
 Labour is at a premium throughout Canada, 
 and machinery, chiefly of American manufacture, 
 is more largely used than in England. Sometimes 
 two chums will farm 200 acres alone. Nearly all 
 this grain we see is the far-famed Manitoba No. 
 I hard. It is the finest wheat in the world. 
 
 We are now approaching Brandon, which is a 
 great wheat centre. This town has the largest 
 grain market in Manitoba, as is shown by five 
 elevators. "It is the distributing centre for an 
 extensive and well settled country." We should . 
 have stayed here, but were deterred by accounts of 
 the hotel accommodation. Then came the pleasure 
 of an orange sunset, gilding the grain into more 
 golden glory. We passed the celebrated Bell 
 Farm at night where the furrows are usually four 
 miles long, and the work is done by military 
 organization, " ploughing by brigades, and reaping 
 by divisions." 
 
 At five o'clock we are left cold and shivering in 
 the just broken dawn on the prairie side at Regina. 
 We look wistfully after the disappearing train, 
 with the warm berths inside the car. Deceived by 
 
To the Far West. 57 
 
 the high-sounding designation of Capital of the 
 North- West Provinces, we had broken our journey 
 at Regina. There is a frontage to the line of 
 some wooden houses and stores, which extends 
 but a little way back, for the population of Regina 
 is only as yet 2000. The prairie extends to the 
 sky line on eveify side. It is a dreary prospect, 
 aud we are mutually depressed. 
 
 There being nothing else to do, I retire to bed 
 for some hours — the Sheffield-born landlady giving 
 us a true Sheffield welcome. 
 
 At one o'clock matters seem brighter, for 
 Colonel Herchmer, commanding the Mounted 
 Police of the North- West Territory, has kindly 
 sent a team for us to drive two miles out across 
 the prairie to the barracks. From the distance, 
 the dark red buildings look quite a town, sur- 
 mounted by the tower of the riding school. This 
 force is organized on military lines, and consists 
 of 1000 men, who maintain order over the Indian 
 Reservations, and an area of 800 miles. Their 
 uniform of scarlet patrol-jacket and black forage 
 cap, with long riding-boots is extremely smart. 
 You meet them in all parts of the Nbrth-West 
 Provinces. 
 
 After lunching with Mrs. Herchmer, we inspected 
 the officers' and men's mess rooms, the canteen, 
 store room, kitchens and forge, the reading-room, 
 bowling alley and theatre, and the guard room, 
 
58 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 where we were shown the cell in which Louis 
 Riel was kept after his capture. The force is 
 under strict military discipline. They have a 
 football and cricket team, and a musical ride equal 
 to that of the Life Guards. 
 
 The horses are all " bronchos," or prairie horses, 
 bred chiefly from Indian ponies. They cost 100 
 dols. to 120 dols. each, and are short and wiry. 
 They need to be strong, for the men must be five 
 feet eight inches in height, and measure thirty-five 
 inches round the chest, whilethe Californian saddles 
 they use are very heavy. These saddles are after the 
 model of the Spanish South American ones, with 
 a high pommel in front and a triangular wooden 
 stirrup. The horses are guaranteed to go forty 
 miles a day. There are many gentlemen in the 
 ranks of the force, some of whom have failed in 
 ranching and other walks of life. The wild 
 roving life on the out-stations may be pleasant, but 
 there is no promotion from the ranks. 
 
 A drive of two miles further out on to the 
 prairie brought us to one of the Dominion 
 Schools, kept for the children of the Indian 
 Reservations. Mr. Hayter Reed, the Government 
 Inspector, who showed us over the school, told us 
 that they do not force the parents to give up the 
 children, but persuade them. It is uphill work at 
 first, civilizing and teaching English to the little 
 brown, bright-eyed children, with lank black hair, 
 
To the Far West. 59 
 
 whom we saw in the schoolrooms. The bath and 
 the wearing of boots is a severe trial to these gipsy 
 children at first. 
 
 The Government acknowledges in the building 
 of these schools its responsibility towards the 
 natives. They made treaties with the Indians, 
 giving them rations, and setting apart certain 
 lands or Reservations for them, such as the Black 
 Foot and the Sarcee. The Americans did the 
 same with their Indians, but did not keep their 
 treaties as we have done. However, like all other 
 " indigenes," they are dying out with the advance 
 of the white man's civilization. We drove home 
 past Government House, and in the evening 
 M. Royat, the Lieut.-Governor, presided over an 
 enthusiastic meeting of the United Empire Trade 
 League. 
 
 Since very early morning, and all through this 
 interminably long hot day, we have been crossing 
 the great desert prairie. Hour after hour has 
 dragged wearily on, and still we look out from the 
 car on to the symmetrical lines of the rolling 
 plains. 
 
 For over 400 miles, from Regina to Medicine 
 Hat, this vast steppe extends. There is no green 
 thing on it — not a tree, or bush, or shrub — but it is 
 covered with coarse grass, burnt to a sere yellow. 
 The prairie is trackless as a desert ; lonely as the 
 ocean ; vast and colourless as a summer sky. And 
 
6o Newfo^lndland to Cochin China. 
 
 yet the prairie pleases, its loneliness fascinates, its 
 very monotony charms, the deep stillness soothes, 
 the tints are so pale and quiet. There is the faded 
 yellow of the grass, and the faint blue of the sky 
 meeting on the horizon in that never-eflding 
 undulating line, unbroken and uninterrupted. 
 The atmosphere is so clear that the blades of 
 grass stand out alone, and a distant sage bush is 
 intensely blue. Occasionally the haze makes the 
 mirage of an ocean on the sky line. The only 
 variety to this unvarying scene are the great saline 
 lakes we frequently pass. A blue haze hangs over 
 them, caused by the active evaporation, and now 
 and again we see a shining patch of pure white 
 crystal, which is the crust of salt left from an ex- 
 hausted lake. At- other times these dry basins are 
 carpeted with a rich red and purple weed, that 
 forms an oasis in the wilderness of burnt-out 
 hues. 
 
 We see many buffalo trails, for though these 
 animals have been extinct for some years, their 
 prancings beat the trail so hard, that they are still 
 in existence. As many as 160,000 were killed 
 yearly, and with them disappeared the chief 
 sustenance of the Indians. The prairie is strewn 
 with their bleached skulls and carcasses. By the 
 side of the stations there are stacks of their gigan- 
 tic bones, artistically built up with the skulls facing 
 outwards. Gophers start up and skurry away at 
 
To the Far West. 6i 
 
 the noise of the train. They correspond to the 
 prairie dog of America, but are smaller and about 
 the size of a rabbit. 
 
 We are impressed with the comparative fertility 
 of the Canadian prairie, when contrasted with the 
 similar belt of saline desert in America, for barren 
 as this looks, parts of it are good for cattle ranching. 
 We do, later in the day, occasionally pass a few 
 settlers' dwellings, and presently the first of the 
 Canadian Agricultural Company's farms. There 
 are ten of these farms, consisting of 10,000 acres 
 each, and situated at intervals of thirty miles 
 between this and Calgary. We see on them 
 frequent "fire breaks," or a ploughed acre left 
 bare to prevent a fire from spreading in the crops. 
 There are men, too, stationed along the line firing 
 the grass, so that a spark dropped from the engine 
 should not, by blazing this grass, spread to the 
 ripening corn. 
 
 We inquire what is the use of the mounds 
 by the tracks, and are told these are snow brakes. 
 In this flat country the smallest rise is sufficient 
 to make a drift, against which the snow piles to a 
 great height. 
 
 We pass Moosejaw. The name is an abridg- 
 ment of the Indian one, which literally means, 
 "The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the-cart 
 with-a-moose-jaw-bone." At Maple Creek there 
 are large stock yards, where the cattle are brought 
 
62 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 down from far distant ranches, and even from 
 over the American border at Montana, and put 
 on the train to Montreal and exported to 
 England. 
 
 The car had been up to 95", but the intense 
 heat was beginning to- subside. With the refresh- 
 ing coolness and the sun declining, we are also 
 gladdened by the sight of a gradually rising 
 slope on the dead level of the plain. It is the 
 beginning of the Cypress range. Then we see 
 a bush, some trees, some prairie flowers, and 
 soon we are dropping down into the compara- 
 tively fruitful valley of the South Saskatchawan, 
 and, crossing its broad river, we reach Medicine 
 Hat. 
 
 It is delightful after the stifling atnflosphere of 
 the cars to get out and stroll in the station garden, 
 which is full of old-fashioned English flowers, 
 stocks, geraniums, verbenas, floxes, and migno- 
 nette. There are a picturesque party of Indians 
 with their squaws and papooses on the platform. 
 We have seen some at all the stations selling 
 polished buffalo horns, mocassins and bead work ; 
 but try and " kodak " them as we often did — and 
 the instant they saw the small black box, the 
 men turned away and the women put their shawls 
 over their heads. 
 
 On leaving Medicine Hat, we ascended the 
 valley above the river and passed on to a more 
 
To the Far West. 63 
 
 fertile prairie. There was just here a great 
 meeting-place for the buffaloes, and the ground 
 is full of their "wallows" or hollows made by 
 the weight of their unwieldly bodies. Alas, 
 that the law against their slaughter came four 
 years after they had all been wantonly killed ! 
 
 We reach Calgary at the atrocious hour of 
 two a.m., and turn out ofa warm berth into a cold 
 bed at the hotel. 
 
 Sunday, Augtist JiOth. — We attended morning 
 service at the pretty little wooden church, the 
 Bishop of Saskatchawan officiating. 
 
 Calgary is the capital of Alberta and is in the 
 centre of a great ranche country. Like all these 
 towns out west it is an unfinished conglomeration 
 of houses, laid out in imaginary streets at right 
 angles, in which there are few houses and more 
 gaps. The whole is held together by a principal 
 street, in which there are two or three pretentious 
 new stone buildings. From here the houses 
 straggle away into the country,, the unoccupied 
 lots being joined to them by a boarded foot-path. 
 These towns have no depth, they are all surface 
 and length. Laid down on the prairie there are 
 no trees near them and they have a bare un- 
 finished ugliness, peculiar to their new growth. 
 
 You are reminded at every turn of the reason 
 for Calgary's existence, for its shops indicate the 
 ranchers' wants. There are many saddlers, dis^ 
 
64 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 playing Californian saddles, stock whips and 
 lassoos ; others have camp bedding and furniture ; 
 canned goods, that stand-by of the rancher, are 
 evidently in great demand. The dry-goods stores 
 are full of flannel shirts, slouching broad-brim- 
 med hats and "chaps," or the cowboy's leather 
 leggings reaching to the thigh. Nearly everyone 
 you meet is English, there are few born Canadians. 
 
 The streets are full of cowboys riding their 
 long-tailed, half-groomed bronchos at a hand 
 gallop, or of sulkies with the unmistakable 
 rancher, with shirt open at the throat, slouch 
 hat, and tanned face. The chief subject of con- 
 versation is the dimensions of the ranches, the 
 number of head of cattle and horses on each. 
 
 In the afternoon a Police team came with Mrs. 
 Mclllree, to drive us out to see one of these 
 ranches. Out here anything from a single horse 
 to a four-in-hand is called a " team," but this was 
 one in our sense of the term. 
 
 We galloped across a trail on the prairie, and 
 then wound through a " coolie," as they call the 
 little valleys lying in between the rolling hills, 
 and which are so frequent in this country. There 
 are hundreds of gophers popping out of their 
 holes, and as we see them close, sitting up with 
 their long bodies, they look like tiny kangaroos. 
 We espy coveys of prairie chickens, which are 
 like our grouse. 
 
To the Far West. 65 
 
 As we reach the open ground there is a splendid 
 country spread out before us. Far as the 
 eye can reach, extending into the foot-hills at 
 the base of the Rockies, there are miles and 
 miles of rolling upland pastures, that resemble 
 our Wiltshire downs. The whole of this vast 
 area has been " taken up," and is a , succession 
 of ranches. We can see the little wooden houses 
 with their outbuildings, scattered at long intervals . 
 Those innumerable specks on the downs are 
 the cattle and horses, literally " feeding on a 
 thousand hills." We are following the sweeping 
 bends of the Elbow river, which lies below us in 
 a cool green ravine, full of trees, in pleasant con- 
 trast to the brown hills around. 
 
 The ranche we are going to belongs to Mr, 
 Robinson, and used to be called the Elbow Ranche, 
 but has lately changed its name to the Chippen- 
 ham, in accordance with the idea of calling the 
 ranches hereabouts after the great English hunts. 
 Messrs. Martin, Jameson, and Gordon-Cumming 
 (the latter of whom we met at the hotel with his 
 pet black bear), have called their ranche the Quorn. 
 One ranche differs not from the other, except in 
 degrees of comfort. They are all built of wood, 
 generally with verandahs, and after the simplest 
 model of a square house, with a door in the centre 
 and windows on each side. There are no trees 
 or shrubs, or creepers, scarcely even an attempt 
 
 F 
 
,66 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 at a garden ; a rough paling alone divides them 
 from the prairie. Dogs walk in and out and 
 are part of the family. The plains are bare. 
 Yet what a world of romance lingers round the 
 
 The Ranche Pupil. 
 
 expression, " out ranching in the West." We 
 dream of sunrise and sunset on the open prairie, 
 of wild gallops in the early morning with the 
 dew on the grass, of camping out under the 
 starlight. But I trow the reality is far removed 
 
To the Far West. 67 
 
 from the ideal, and that it ends with a bunk in 
 the cowboy's hut wrapped up in a blanket, with 
 tough prairie beef and doughy bread for their 
 fare. I am sure if some fond mother could see 
 her darling boy in his cowboy's dress, and his 
 quarters in the log hut, she would never be 
 happy until she had him by her side again. It 
 is clearly a case of " where ignorance is bliss," etc. 
 But still, for a strong constitution there is nothing 
 to fear, and sobriety and industry may lead to 
 fortune. 
 
 - We look at the " corral '"' or wooden pen, sub- 
 divided into partitions, where, after the animals 
 have been driven in, the one required is gradually 
 separated by being shut off in pen after pen, until 
 a narrow passage is reached. Here wooden 
 barriers are let down and he is thus confined in a 
 cage. They can then brand him with an iron 
 stamped with the mark of the ranche. If it is a 
 colt to be broken, they saddle, bridle and mount 
 him before leaving the pen. Then comes the 
 struggle, in which the rough rider requires great 
 skill, tact, and experience, for a horse will do any- 
 thing to unseat his rider the first time. Unmerci- 
 fully sharp bits are used, but the horse is guided 
 more by the rein on the neck. The boys ride 
 loosely when galloping over the prairie, leaving 
 the horse to look out for the holes, and he rarely 
 makes a mistake. 
 
 F 2 
 
68 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 The horses on this ranche are bronchos, but they 
 have not sufficient blood for the English market 
 and, added to this, the branding detracts from "their 
 value. They are worth about 120 dols. each. 
 This firing is said to be a necessity, as the 
 ranches are often 500 acres in extent. The 
 animals roam at will, with perhaps a couple of 
 men, living in a log hut twenty miles away from 
 the ranche, told off to look after them. Twice a 
 year they " round up ; " that is, the owners meet 
 and appoint a place, where the cattle are driven in 
 and claimed by their owners, who know them by 
 their brands, and colts and calves are then marked. 
 This rounding up is done in the spring and the fall 
 of every year, and is beginning now. The brands 
 are some of them very ingenious in device. 
 Settlers advertise in the newspapers for lost animals, 
 giving their brands, which are well known to all 
 the country round. 
 
 Does ranching pay ? They tell us it can and 
 does, but, as in every other walk of life, hard work, 
 capital and experience are required. Those who 
 are wise, before beginning ranching on their own 
 account, go through a cowboy apprenticeship on 
 some ranche. Our driver in Calgary confided to 
 us " that them young men didn't do no good to 
 themselves out here, but they did good to the 
 country, for they freely spent the remittances from 
 home," 
 
To the Far West. 69 
 
 We came home by the Indian Sarcee Reserve. 
 On an open space over the river we saw some 
 poles placed together with a suspended hook. It 
 is the place where the Indians " make their braves." 
 In this terrible ordeal their young men have this 
 hook twisted into the muscles of their chests and 
 are drawn up by it. They must utter no cry of 
 pain. Indian encampments are met with all over 
 the prairie. You know their " topee " tents, by 
 the poles sticking up in the centre, in distinction 
 to the ordinary tents of the half-breeds. They 
 have numerous horses and cattle, which are 
 rounded up with others. They are kept by an 
 inspector within their reserves, and thei-e is a large 
 fine for anyone selling them intoxicating drink. 
 They appear innocent and harmless, and only 
 given to paltry thieving. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES AND THE SELKIRKS. 
 
 Since our arrival at Calgary we have been 
 manceuvring to see by what means we could escape 
 the start at 2 o'clock in the morning. As the 
 C.P.R. has only one train westward each day, 
 
 Howe Pass. 
 
 you must continue your journey at the same time 
 as you previously arrived. Now we have received 
 permission to travel by a freight train, and Mr. 
 Niblock, the Superintendent of the division, has 
 kindly lent us his private car. 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 7 1 
 
 The freight train was due between six and seven 
 o'cloclc, and it was somewhat annoying, as we had 
 risen at S o'clock, to have to wait about the plat- 
 form at the station until nine. Early as it was, 
 the town was astir with sportsmen in their buggies 
 with their guns and dogs, off for a day's shooting 
 on the prairie. For this bright morning is the ist 
 of September, their 12th of August, and there will 
 be massacre amongst the prairie chickens ere 
 nightfall. The shooting is open to all, and you 
 may roam over anybody's land. 
 
 We can see the " Rockies " for the first time this 
 morning. Since we have been, at Calgary the 
 mountains have sulked in clouds and mist, and 
 Calgary does not, as some people would have you 
 believe, lie under the Rockies, but fifty miles away. 
 In the clear morning air, they appear nearer to 
 us than they really are. 
 
 We are soon well into the foot-hills, those grassy 
 rounded slopes, which are the first rising ground 
 from off the prairie, and which lead up to and end 
 in the Rocky Mountains. The blue Bow river flows 
 merrily in the valley ; there are hundreds of 
 horses and cattle feeding on these river terraces, 
 for there are ranches lying up to and under the 
 foot of the Rockies. 
 
 The great amphitheatre of mountains, which 
 has been coming nearer by leaps and bounds, is 
 beginning to impress us with its barren purple 
 
72 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 scars, and just as we are entering among them 
 our guard stops the train, and takes us out to see 
 the Kananaskis Falls in the Bow river. We hear 
 their dull and distant thunder before we see the 
 clear mountain torrent, sliding down over ledges 
 of rock, forming a long white-flecked rapid, before 
 taking a final leap over a precipice. The con- 
 ductor then invites us to climb up into the caboose, 
 and scrambling up, we are perched inside the turret 
 of the van, where there are windows that command 
 the view on all sides. We share this elevated 
 position with the brakesman, who is ready to run 
 along the platform on the top of the waggons, and 
 turn on the brakes, for each waggon has a separate 
 one, connected with a wheel at the top. We sub- 
 sequently discussed whether to give this amiable 
 conductor a tip, but came to the conclusion that it 
 was superfluous, on learning from the car atten- 
 dant that his salary, calculated at three cents a 
 mile, gave him an income of 500/. a year. 
 
 We are now breaking through the outer barrier 
 of the Rockies, and penetrating deeper into the 
 mountains by a valley. The railway is challenging 
 the monarchs, for they rise up on every side and 
 could so easily crush us, as v/e wander through the 
 green valley by the side of the Bow river, our 
 travelling comrade for many days to come. Its 
 waters are pale emerald green now, but later on 
 will be milk-blue with the melting snow and 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 7^ 
 
 ground-up moraine, brought down by its moun- 
 tain tributaries. 
 
 We shoot " the gap," described as 
 " two vertical walls of dizzy height." 
 It would be truer to say that the line 
 turns sharply round a projection 
 of rock, whilst a mountain ap- 
 proaches from the other side. It 
 is a fraud! AtCanmorewe rest 
 an hour. As we get out of 
 the cars, the intense stillness 
 of the valley strikes us. We 
 look up to, and are covered 
 by the shadows of the three 
 
 Kananaskis Falls. 
 
 well-defined slanting peaks of the Three Sisters 
 and the Wind mountain. When we start again 
 the mountains continue to increase in grandeur, 
 
74 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 though I think that Baroness Macdonald's rhap- 
 sodies quoted in the Annotated Time Table, 
 exaggerate the beauty of this part of the Rockies. 
 It is curious to notice the remarkable difference 
 between the two ranges we are passing through. 
 Those to the left are 
 fantastically broken 
 into varied shapes 
 and forms penetrated 
 by crevasses, full 
 of deep blue and 
 purple - red shadows. 
 Whilst the range to 
 the right is formed of 
 grey and white hoary- 
 headed peaks, and look 
 brilliantly cold and 
 white, in the strong 
 sunlight. 
 
 We approach th 
 Cascade Mountain 
 " This enormous mass 
 seems to advance to- Cascade Mountain, 
 
 wards us and meet us." It entirely blocks our 
 further progress, and the train seems to be going 
 to travel up it. We appear to touch it, but in 
 reality it is many miles away. This Cascade 
 Mountain gives you more idea than anything else 
 of the colossal proportion of the mountains, which 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 75 
 
 you lose by proximity, and by their uniformly 
 large scale. It also shows you the deception 
 caused by the clearness of the atmosphere. For 
 the silver cascade which we see falling down its 
 side is ten feet across, and yet it looks like a 
 thread of cotton. The mountain we could well- 
 nigh touch is five 
 miles or more away. 
 It is a striking sen- 
 sation. 
 
 Another half-hour 
 and we reach Banff. 
 As a whole, I think 
 this part of the 
 scenery disappoint- 
 ing, but people talk 
 so much about it, because it 
 ??^ is their first experience of 
 
 the mountains, coming as it does 
 
 too after a thousand miles of 
 Cascade Moun- . . 
 
 tain, Banff. prairie. 
 
 We are hot and tired after our 
 journey, and have long to wait for " the rig," which 
 is repeatedly telephoned for. When it does appear 
 it is drawn by a vicious roan, fresh from a ranch e, 
 which shies and bolts in a terrifying way. There 
 are two miles of a badish road, which we do not 
 see for the clouds of dust that accompany us. This 
 dust is the drawback to Banff. The mountains 
 
76 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 have not come up to our expectations. • Will it 
 be so also with Banff? To-morrow will show. 
 
 Wednesday, September 2nd. — A day to be re- 
 membered. A day of complete satisfaction. 
 
 Cradled in the stillness of the mountains, closed 
 in by them in solemnity and darkness, the babble 
 of the Bow River joining its waters with the Spray, 
 we fell asleep. This morning, the sun of a most 
 perfect day awakes us, and the sound of the rushing 
 waters is the first to greet our ears. My windows 
 form two sides of the room, and I dress with the 
 sun streaming in at the one and the breeze at the 
 other, and a panorama of mountains seen from 
 them both. The air is exhilarating to intoxication ; 
 the atmosphere intensely clear. We do nothing 
 all day, we live in the companionship of the moun- 
 tains. 
 
 We have been with them in the early morning, 
 when the pale-rose tints, the opalescent blue, the 
 delicate pearl-grey, lay lightly on their rugged 
 summits, and made them seem so near and tender. 
 We have seen them in the heat of noon, looking 
 strong and hard, with black shadows' in the cre- 
 vasses and their great stony veins and muscles 
 standing out in relief in the sunshine. They seem 
 full of manhood, defiant, and self-sufficient. We 
 have watched these same mountains in the gla- 
 mour of declining days, soften again as the shadows 
 steal up the pine woods, leaving patches of sun- 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. yj 
 
 light. One side of the valley is in gloom, whilst 
 the other is bathed in golden light. Their grey 
 peaks stand out as if cut with a sharp-edged knife 
 against the even paleness of the sky. A few fir 
 trees at their summit look like green needle-points, 
 and the trail of pines climbing up the mountain, 
 like soldiers marching in single file trying to scale 
 the fortress heights. 
 
 In the -centre of the valley there are two great 
 mountains, and as I write they are becoming 
 wrapped in purple-blue gloom, with sable shadows 
 in their granite sides, and whilst the valley is in 
 darkness, the peaks are still bright with the last 
 gleams of fading daylight. Behind this mountain 
 again, there are three acute peaks, which stand 
 from behind its dark shoulder, and they are rosy- 
 red with an Alpine after-glow. 
 
78 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 As we sit out after dinner in the gloaming, the 
 mountains are still dimly visible. They have lost 
 their individuality, and their soft full outlines are 
 limned against the luminous sky. Stars rise from . 
 behind them; there is one of intense brightness, 
 and several shooting ones make a bright pathway 
 across the mountains. 
 
 There are mountains of every description at 
 Banff. It is this variety that gives such charm 
 to the place. Some are entirely clothed with 
 pines, others partly so, with barren summits. 
 Others again are nothing but rock and granite from 
 base to summit, from earth almost to heaven, and 
 down their sides there are marked deep slides, 
 where the rock and limestone has crumbled into an 
 avalanche of stone and dust. The changes on 
 their unchanging surfaces are the most beautiful. 
 Like human nature, hard on the surface, they have 
 hidden soft and susceptible moods. The pine- 
 clad mountains are sunnier and more pleasing, but 
 it is those of adamantine rock that fascinate you. 
 
 They say that no view is perfect without water. 
 The Bow River here gives the poetry of motion, 
 and makes music to echo against the hills. It has 
 the most perfect miniature falls I ever saw. They 
 are pretty, yet not tame ; they are noisy, yet not 
 thundering ; they murmur and quarrel without pro- 
 ducing soul-agonizing sounds. They charm, but 
 do not exercise the dangerous fascination of 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 79 
 
 Niagara. Their water is creamy blue in the sun- 
 light, and cerulean in the shadow of the ravine, 
 down which in bars and trails of foam it rushes, 
 until it throws itself over the fall, in a snow-white 
 cloud, flecking the rocks on the banks with 
 froth. 
 
 All the mountains have names — such as the 
 Twin Brothers, the Sentinel, the Devil's head ; but 
 these names are meaningless. You know and 
 grow to love each by its own individual character- 
 istic. The hotel in their midst scarcely mars the 
 scene, for it is a picturesque structure perched on 
 a natural platform, builtof yellow wood, and with 
 
8o Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 a roof of warm red shingles, and green trellises to 
 cover the foundations. Its situation is so perfect 
 that you scarcely improve your view, or want to 
 drive about the valleys. You may, perhaps, come 
 a little nearer to the mountains, or see their 
 reverse sides. There is one, however, the Twin 
 Brethren, which gains by coming near to it, 
 because you can stand absolutely under a mam- 
 moth rampart of granite, shot straight into mid 
 air, horizontally upward. It strikes fear into you 
 as you gaze up to it, and as with these mountains 
 comparison is the only thing which gives you 
 even the remotest idea of their superb size, a 
 great rock, as big as a small hill in itself, broke 
 off some years ago and lies on the ground, amid 
 smaller stones, as we ought to call them, but 
 which are really large rocks. We can trace the 
 exact place where it cracked away from the 
 symmetry of rock, leaving an unseemly cavity 
 and a long|moraine of ddbris. The air is so dry 
 that everything is like tinder. Forest fires are 
 frequent, and we mark their track up the mountain 
 sides and see the smoke of one or two. A few 
 mutilated trees are all that are left of the mag- 
 nificent primeval forest, and the pines we see are 
 a second and third growth. 
 
 Though the mountains stand around so silent 
 and stately, there is a great unrest beneath them. 
 A volcano burns below, which may break forth 
 
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 H 
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 2 
 
 Z 
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 X 
 
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 z; 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 8 1 
 
 at any time, for Banff has several hot mineral 
 pools and springs, sure indication that the earth 
 here is only an upper crust, with hell-fire beneath. 
 
 The temperature of these springs is 127 degrees 
 Fahrenheit, and there are baths for the outer man, 
 and taps of water for the inner. 
 
 Thursday, September 2,rd. — A day of blankest 
 disappointment. A cruel change from yesterday. 
 From early morning 
 the mountains have 
 been blurred and blot- 
 ted out by an im- 
 penetrable haze of 
 smoke. The sun, 
 though ready to give 
 us all it did yester- 
 day, has not shone, 
 and" has been only a 
 fiery ball suspended 
 in the air. It is 
 
 caused by a forest fire raging destruction, it may 
 be, many miles from here, but the smoke, from 
 the smouldering, spreads and hangs like a curtain, 
 lasting often for many days. We canoed up the 
 Bow River to the pretty Vermilion Lakes. 
 
 Friday, September A,th. — I could not resist a 
 peep out of my window at four o'clock. The 
 outlook was more promising I thought, and went 
 back to bed cheered. We left the hotel at six. 
 
 The Pool. Hot Springs, 
 Banff. 
 
82 Newfottnciland to Cochin China. 
 
 Colddespair settled on us all, for the mountains 
 loomed gloomily through a colourless haze. Ex- 
 ceedingly cold and depressed, we huddled into 
 the sheltered corner of the Observation Car, a car 
 for the view, open on all sides. I had heard so 
 much of the magnificent scenery that I had 
 looked forward keenly to this crossing of the 
 Rockies, and it seemed I was to be disappointed. 
 After all, it is only like the disappointments you 
 meet with in life, as, nine times out of ten, the 
 thing most wished for, is a disillusionment when it 
 comes. 
 
 Range after range of mountains is unfolding 
 before us. They approach : we pass immediately 
 under them, and they recede, only to give place to 
 others as grand and massive. All are of solid 
 rock, colossal masonry piled up to magnificent 
 proportions, their zeniths crowned with pinnacles 
 and spires, with square and round and pointed 
 towers. In one place you distinctly see the steps 
 leading up to a broken column. The most im- 
 pressive one is Castle Mountain, though the isolated 
 helmet-shaped peak of Lefroy, ii, 200 feet, is the 
 loftiest. This mountain stands in solitary majesty 
 by itself in the valley. There is no ascending or 
 descending range near it. You can see the battle- 
 ments, with their loop-holes regularly jagged out at 
 the summit of the bastions, and a tower at either 
 end. They are faintly yet clearly discernible. It 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 83 
 
 is truly a Giant's Keep, and I think the finest 
 mountain in the range, though they are all so 
 sublime and grand in this wonderful valley that it 
 is scarcely fair to discriminate. Running con- 
 currently with the track is our dear old friend, the 
 Bow. We have lived continuously with it for three 
 days, and feel quite friendly towards it. 
 
 Soon we see the beginning of the glacier range, 
 and feel the awe inspired by those eternal ice- 
 bound regions where winter reigns for ever, and 
 none can live, and where even nature cannot 
 vegetate. The glaciers lie frozen on to their 
 surface, finding foothold in a crevasse or basin, 
 hollowed out probably by their own action. 
 Under one of these glaciers lie the Trinity of 
 Lakes, called the Lonely Lakes of the Rocky 
 Mountains, one beneath the other, with Lake 
 Agnes touched by the glacier. At Laggan we 
 have a heavier engine attached, and extra bolts 
 and brakes screwed on. 
 
 We begin the ascent of the Rockies ; the cross- 
 ing of the Great Divide. It is gradual and not 
 nearly such a dramatic incident as the crossing of 
 the Great Divide of the Americans. In fact, the 
 gradients are so gently engineered that, though 
 the engine makes a great noise about it, you 
 scarcely believe you have reached the top, and 
 are looking for something more exciting when you 
 see the wooden arch at the summit, on which is 
 
 G 2 
 
§4 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 inscribed "The Great Divide." In this case it 
 alludes mockingly to the tiny stream which here 
 divides and flows towards the Atlantic on one side, 
 and the Pacific on the other. There is here a deep 
 green lake, called Summit Lake. 
 
 We begin the descent by a succession of per- 
 fectly equal curves that incline first to the right 
 and then to the left, bearing us downwards all the 
 time. And now comes what is by far the most 
 memorable scene in the Rockies. It is deeply 
 impressive, and is only too swiftly passed. It is 
 called the Kicking Horse Pass. We must turn 
 for a moment from the sublime to the ridiculous 
 for the origin of this name. When the party of 
 surveyors reached the summit of the pass a white 
 pony kicked off its pack. This gave it the name, 
 which will now always cling to it. We cross the 
 Wapta ri^er on to its left side, and plunge wildly, 
 recklessly, into a deep gorge. Deeper and deeper 
 we rush down into the canyon, darker and more 
 impressive the situation becomes as we cling to 
 the mountain side, whilst the river tears down yet 
 deeper than us, until it appears a caldron of foaming 
 silver in the gloom at the bottom of the gorge. 
 And, look, up on one side is a perpendicular 
 mountain of which, so far down are we, we cannot 
 see the summit ; on the other, there are those 
 supremely graceful spires of Cathedral Mount, 
 pointing with silent finger to the sky. If you look 
 
MOUNT STEPHEN, THE KING OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIE=. 
 
 Page 85. 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 85 
 
 down into that immensity of depth, and then up 
 as far as the eye can reach, this is what you see. 
 First, the silver river gleaming in its black channel ; 
 on a level and opposite to you a bank of bright 
 green moss and ferns and tangled growth ; then 
 tiers and tiers of pine trees wending skywards, 
 until they reach the base of the rock, whence 
 spring those airy towers. The great Duomo 
 head of Mount Stephen beyond forms a superb 
 dome to these sentinel spires that are so light and 
 gracefully poised in such close proximity to 
 heaven. Straight, in front, and shutting in this 
 marvellous gorge, is the angular peak of Mount 
 Field. Just past the summit there are a number 
 of graves of men who died of mountain fever, 
 which broke out whilst they were making the line. 
 
 Mount Stephen, called after the first President 
 of the Railway, Lord Mount-Stephen, absorbs our 
 attention next. It is certainly the most superb 
 mountain of the Rockies. On its "swelling 
 shoulder " is seen a shining green glacier, " which 
 is slowly pressing forward and over a vertical cliff 
 of great height." The cyclopean masses of rock 
 are richly veined in red and purple. . As the train 
 humbly creeps round the base, the summit is 
 entirely lost to us. Opposite are the swelling 
 mountains of the Van Home range; they touch 
 the muddy, shingly bed of a river. 
 
 We breakfast at the pretty hotel at Field, and 
 
86 Newfo^mdland to Cochin China. 
 
 feel disgusted that the claims of nature must be 
 satisfied, whilst Mount Stephen in its glorious 
 might and strength, and its limitless surface of 
 adamantine rock, raises its hoary zenith immedi- 
 ately above us. We made the greatest mistake 
 in not staying a day here, and, by ascending 
 a neighbouring mountain, being still more im- 
 pressed with its colossal proportions. 
 
 On leaving Field, we travel between the " orderly 
 array of peaks of the two ranges of Otter-Tail and 
 the Beaver Foots." 
 
 At Palliser, the driver allows us to ride on the 
 engine through the Second Kicking Horse Pass. 
 It runs madly down into growing darkness, closer 
 and higher the mountains draw. The boiling 
 river disputes the narrow chasm with us, and it is 
 a hand-to-hand struggle in which the line has 
 frequently to give up to the river, and to cross 
 over from side to side to gain a footing. The 
 engine tears wildly down hill, reeling round the 
 sharp curves at an angle of 20^*, with the train 
 doubling itself. You cannot hear yourself speak 
 for the noise of the foaming river and the panting 
 of the engine. As we plunge into the dread dark- 
 ness of a tunnel, the engine whistles, and the echo 
 is dying, dying, dead, to us — as we are lost in 
 blackness. It is wonderful to see the driver 
 control this huge, puffing, black monster by a 
 gentle pressure on two valve handles, which it 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 87 
 
 resents with an indignant snort. We emerge into 
 light and space again at Golden. We come 
 suddenly back to a commonplace life, as repre- 
 sented by this wooden mining village. It is fare- 
 well to the Rockies. 
 
 I think most people have an idea that the 
 engineering feats of the Pacific Railway were per- 
 formed in the crossing of the Rockies. They do 
 not realize, any more than we did, that we have 
 another and far more difficult range to surmount, 
 before reaching the Pacific coast. The Selkirk 
 range is more beautiful and grander. It has more 
 snow and glacier peaks than the Rockies. 
 
 We are in a green valley, with the Selkirks dimly 
 seen to the left, whilst the Rockies are diminishing 
 to a low range to the right, and we have found a 
 new river in the broad Columbia. We are re- 
 minded that we have crossed the Great Dividing 
 Watershed, for this river is running the opposite 
 way down to the ocean. 
 
 It is but a short breathing space, for almost at 
 once the mountains close together, and we are in 
 another of those lovely gorges, each one of which, 
 would make famous any railway. Through a per- 
 fectly formed natural gateway of rock, so narrow that 
 it can be crossed by a slender sapling, the tempes- 
 tuous waters of the Beaver River hurry to join the 
 Columbia. This is a smiling little valley, full of 
 blue-green pines, mingling with the tender greens 
 
88 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 of young poplars, and the yellow moss and lichens 
 covering the rocks. From this valley we pass into 
 the heart of the Selkirks. 
 
 We have become accustomed to the line climbing 
 up the mountain side, and we can tell how rapidly 
 we are now doing this by the dwindling of the 
 Beaver River, by whose side we were a minute 
 ago, and which is now far away down in the valley. 
 Its pale green waters trace out the most perfect 
 curves of the letter S, and flow in a park with pine 
 woods. And it is all so far away — down, down — and 
 would be such a terifific fall. Immediately opposite 
 to us are the mountains, and we are equal to about 
 half way up them, and through the haze they 
 appear to us so very near, and so very large. The 
 panorama is magnificent ; the detailed picture is 
 impressive, when, from gazing down boundless 
 depths, the eye is lifted through miles of pine 
 forests, up to grey crags, too high for vegeta- 
 tion. 
 
 Growing by the side of the line there are gigan- 
 tic pines, Douglas fir and cedar. They are so 
 straight, without curve, or bend, or knot, that one 
 cannot help thinking what splendid masts they 
 would make for some big ship. Many of their 
 tops are on a level with us, whilst, by peering 
 down, we can with difficulty see their roots. But 
 like all these Canadian forests, the finest trees are 
 dismembered or mutilated by burning, and their 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 89 
 
 graceful, fringe-like foliage is often brown and 
 singed. 
 
 The railway is now going to cross several deep 
 gullies on wooden trestle-bridges. These bridges 
 appear frail and weak for the purpose, the valleys 
 being deep, and the trains so heavy. They creak 
 and groan ominously as the train passes on them. 
 Water-butts and a watcher are stationed on them, 
 in case of fire from a spark of the engine. The 
 Stony Creek Bridge, over a deep V-shaped valley, 
 is one of the loftiest railway bridges in the world ; 
 hundreds of square yards of timber were used in its 
 construction, and it rests on three piers, 295 feet 
 above the ravine. We have enchanting peeps up 
 these bright green gullies, with their noisy rills 
 jumping and scrambling down anyhow, so long as 
 they reach the bottom of the valley, and we rush 
 to one side of the car to be pleased by this, and 
 then to the other, to be frightened by gazing into 
 space. 
 
 Roger's Pass, the culminating beauty of the 
 Selkirks — named after the engineer — is approach- 
 ing. There are two mountains, Mount Macdonald 
 and Mount Hermit, but they are so mighty, that 
 if you have not seen them you have no chance of 
 picturing them to yourself. To give you some 
 idea of their colossal proportions. Mount Mac- 
 donald is one mile and a quarter in a vertical line 
 above the railway. The bottom is a stone's throw 
 
90 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 from the car. Mount Hermit is equal in size on 
 tlie other side. These mountains were united, but 
 some great convulsion of nature has split them 
 apart. This is a moment in your existence, and 
 you would give much to prolong it ; the scene is 
 indescribable. The other mountains of this pass 
 are covered with snow, and seven or eight thousand 
 feet above us are many glistening glaciers, pure as 
 crystal. 
 
 It is sad that this part of the line is spoilt by 
 the snow-sheds, constructed of massive timber, and 
 into which we are shot and blinded with smoke 
 and coal grit, emerging frequently to get glimpses 
 of these wonderful mountains, with their pale- 
 blue and green glaciers hanging above us, — 
 glimpses which are imprinted on the memory for 
 long, as- we shoot into another of these exasper- 
 ating snow -sheds. It is ungrateful to grumble at 
 them, for the difficulties of this part of the line, 
 with snow in winter, are enormous, and we 
 must always bear in mind that were it not for 
 the enterprise of the Company we should not 
 at this moment be sitting comfortably in a car, 
 passing through the finest scenery in the world. 
 There may be grander, but it has yet to be dis- 
 covered. 
 
 Emerging from Roger's Pass, by a deep bend 
 on the mountain side, we have a sudden transition 
 into the fir-clad valley of the Illicilliwaet, the river 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 91 
 
 of this name far below, and for many miles seek- 
 ing the bottom of the valley, the railway doing 
 likewise. Straight ahead the white ghost of the 
 great glacier of the Selkirks. 
 
 We left the train here, and stayed at the pretty 
 Swiss chalet of the Glacier house. It lies half-way 
 up the valley and under the glacier, with the 
 hoary peak of Sir Donald frowning down on it. 
 
 The afternoon had cleared up, there was even a 
 gleam- of sunshine, and the first thing to do was to 
 walk up to the Glacier, through a beautiful pine 
 forest, whose interlacing branches are covered 
 with hanging trails of white moss^ resembling an 
 old man's beard. The ground is soft, and covered 
 with a bright-brown saw-dust from the decaying 
 trunks that lie around. We cross the path of a 
 mighty avalanche, which, sweeping down from a 
 mountain below Sir Donald, hurled itself across 
 the valley, huge rocks, trunks of trees and dibris 
 being piled across the pathway. The green 
 moraine on the mountain shows how soon nature 
 recoups herself. There are wild gooseberry and 
 currant bushes, and we eat plentifully of wild 
 raspberries and blueberries. 
 
 As you stand under the Glacier, you see that it 
 has filled in the side between two mountains, and 
 the white rounded outline at the summit is ex- 
 quisitely .pure. It is where it joins the crumbling 
 moraine that it is most beautiful, because here 
 
92 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 there are caves of intense blue, of pale green, and ot 
 that indescribable opaque aquamarine, only seen in 
 perfection in the horseshoe bend at Niagara. From 
 these ice x;averns, from under the glacier, torrents 
 of water are always pouring forth. It is the echo 
 from the mountains, that makes such a little 
 volume of water cause such a roaring, rushing 
 sound. Looking down in proud cold sadness on 
 the glacier, is the blue-grey peak of Sir Donald. 
 It is such a cold, unsympathetic peak, rearing its 
 barren head so proudly above its compatriots. 
 Facing homewards, there is that other snow- 
 capped range, with Ross peak and an immense 
 glacier on its shoulder. They are fields of ice and 
 snow untrodden by the foot of man, and covered 
 with eternal snows. As you look round this perfect 
 valley, you are so shut out from the world, that 
 you wonder how you ever entered it. The two 
 iron bands at the platform by the hotel form the 
 only link beyond those impassable walls. 
 
 A gentle gloom settles down over the valley. 
 We stroll about after dinner, amidst the deathlike 
 stillness of the mountains, broken only by the 
 murmuring from out the darkness of the ice 
 stream. Looming closely above us, overhanging 
 as if it would slide down, is the dead and white 
 ghost of the glacier. We sleep under its shadow. 
 
 The glorious morning sunshine is touching Sir 
 Donald and the snow peaks, whilst the valley we 
 
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The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 93 
 
 are in lies so deep down, that it is still in shadow. 
 The pleasure of awakening in such glorious sur- 
 roundings makes us feel the pleasure of living. 
 
 We spend the morning in climbing a mountain 
 to Mirror Lake, winding up and up in the shade 
 of the red-stemmed cedars, and at each precipitous 
 curve, the snow-sheets on the line dwindle, and we 
 seem to get more on a level with the surrounding 
 mountains. The Ross Peak and Range look- 
 specially beautiful to-day. The crevasses are so 
 strongly marked with blue shadows, the peaks are 
 such a soft silver grey, and in the very bosom of 
 Mount Ross is the virgin snow of a pure glacier, 
 fit house for the Ice Maiden. I have never any 
 wish to explore mountains such as these. There is 
 a feeling that we desecrate them by trying to come 
 nearer to them, and that nature never meant us to 
 know them, except from below, and then only 
 with admiration akin to awe. I like to feel that 
 their summits are untrodden by human foot, that 
 they have been so for ages, and will continue so 
 until the end of time. 
 
 On descending, we were glad to find we had 
 two more hours at Glacier, the west-bound train 
 being late. 
 
 Directly the train leaves Glacier it begins to 
 drop down into the valley below, by leaps and 
 bounds, so quickly do we run from side to side of 
 the valley by " the Loops." These Loops describe 
 
94 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 circles across the valley, and first we face and 
 touch the base of the Ross Peak, then return, by 
 
 doubling back a mile or more, until we lie under 
 the Glacier House. We describe yet one more 
 loop, and then the train shoots head- foremost into 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 95 
 
 the valley. Looking back and marvelling how 
 the train can possibly mount up this deep pine- 
 filled ravine, you see the great gashes cut across it 
 by the railway embankment. We are rushing 
 downwards at great speed, but not at greater 
 speed than the lUicilliwaet River, which races us. It 
 foams and guShes as we steam and whistle, and so 
 we go down the gorge together, until we are deej) 
 in the gloom of its cold shades. We thunder 
 through snow-sheds and over delicate trestle- 
 bridges until we are buried in the Albert Canyon. 
 Here we get out to see the lUicilliwaet compressed 
 into a rocky defile of inky depth and blackness. 
 It foams with anger. We pass other and similar 
 canyons, and so on for another hour, with ever 
 varying and beautiful scenery. 
 
 Then a change creeps over the mountains, they 
 are. all round on their summits and mostly covered 
 entirely with dense fir forests. There are no more 
 rock and ice-bound peaks. They are opening out 
 a little. Now, as we get lower down, we begin to 
 see some specimens of those splendid fir trees, for 
 which British Columbia is famous. Again, these 
 dreadful forest fires have ravaged them. The river 
 and railway have descended the valley together, 
 and continue side by side on the plain, until at 
 length the last curve is rounded, and we run into 
 Revelstoke, As we walk on the platform we feel 
 such a difference in the temperature. The Pacific 
 
96 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 air is so soft and warm after the keen dryness of 
 the mountain atmosphere. We meet the Columbia 
 River again after a day's absence. It has been 
 flowing round the northern extremity of the 
 Selkirks, whilst we have been crossing their sum- 
 mit, and has grown into a navigable river. The 
 observation car is taken off, sure sign that the 
 crossing of the Selkirks is a thing of the past. 
 
 Before finishing with this part of our travels, I 
 should recommend anyone to profit by our 
 experience, and to stay one day at Field, and to 
 allow of sufficient time for two days at Glacier, as 
 I think anyone would consider it quite worth while 
 to take a freight train back to Golden, returning a 
 second time over the Selkirks by the next day's 
 train. There is a great want (which is, I believe, 
 in process of being supplied) of a detailed guide- 
 book, and by next year doubtless the increased 
 traffic will warrant an additional train a day. 
 
 We think that we have seen the last of the 
 mountains, but a few minutes after leaving Revel- 
 stoke, and crossing the Columbia, we are entering 
 the Gold Range. 
 
 It is getting dusk, we are satiated with moun- 
 tains, and I am as weary of writing about them 
 as you, forbearing reader, of reading these de- 
 scriptions. Night comes to relieve us both. One 
 is glad, however, to think that this Gold Range 
 " seems to have been provided by nature for the 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkii'ks. 97 
 
 railway, in compensation perhaps for the enormous 
 difficulties that had to be overcome in the Rockies 
 and Selkirks." At Craigellachie the last spike 
 of the Canadian Pacific Line was driven on 
 
 fovember 7th, 1885. 
 With what rejoicings and 
 triumph the surveyors 
 and engineers must have 
 seen the finish of their 
 long and desperate strug- 
 gle. We pass through a 
 forest fire this night, 
 and see isolated trunks smouldering like fiery 
 cones, whilst others in falling send out a shower of 
 sparks, that kindle fresh flames in many places. 
 
 We awake the next morning in the Fraser 
 Canyon, and are going through magnificent scenery 
 
 II 
 
98 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 for many hours. We hang over 
 the side of the canyon, and 
 look down on the waters swirl- 
 ing and rushing at our 
 whilst over and over 
 again the rocks seem 
 to bar our progress, and 
 we either rush into a 
 tunnel, or creep round 
 them on ledges of 
 rock with the help of 
 trestle-bridges. Break- 
 fast at North Bend, like everything that the 
 C.P.R. does, is excellent, for when they are not 
 able to run a dining car over the mountains, 
 they provide excellent meals at hotels, such as 
 this, and those at Field and Glacier, all of which 
 
 are run by the com- 
 pany. 
 
 We fly over the 
 fertile plains of Co- 
 lumbia, and run on 
 to Burrard's Inlet by 
 Port Moody. This 
 is the beginning of 
 the sea,— so soon to 
 be our home for some 
 time. We see much 
 lumber' lying about 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 99 
 
 the low wooded banks opposite, and floating 
 by the shore. We turn a corner, run quickly by 
 the railway workshops, and amidst clouds of dust 
 reach Vancouver, It is a great comfort to wash, 
 unpack, and to settle down for two quiet days. 
 
 " And what do you think of our city ? " is the 
 question addressed to all newcomers by the resi- 
 dents of Vancouver. This question is the invari- 
 able opening to a conversation, we have noticed, by 
 the residents of all new cities. In this case it is 
 very pardonable, as five years ago the site of 
 Vancouver was a smoking plain. A fire had swept 
 away the newly-risen city. As soon as it was 
 known that the C.P.R. intended Vancouver to be 
 the terminus to their 3000 miles of railway, build- 
 ing recommenced with renewed vigour. Like 
 everyone else, we are astonished by the number of 
 streets and handsome stone buildings. The vacant 
 building sites that we see amongst them, are the 
 object of much booming and land speculation. 
 Cordova is now the principal street, but, as it is 
 low down on the wharf, at no distant date it will 
 probably be abandoned to offices and wholesale 
 warehouses, whilst Hastings Street, on the block 
 higher up, will be the fashionable avenue. Real 
 Estate offices abound in Vancouver, and everyone 
 appears to dabble more or less in land speculation. 
 Newcomers are always bitten, and up to the moment 
 of sailing we hesitated (but finally rejected) about 
 II 2 
 
loo Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 becoming possessors of a corner block in Cordova 
 Street. There have been many successful specu- 
 lations and large sums made in an incredibly 
 short space of time. Ten per cent, is what every- 
 body expects on their investments. Opinions are 
 still divided as to whether Vancouver really has 
 so great a future before it. Some say it is already 
 over-built. 
 
 The harbour of Vancouver is thought sufficiently 
 beautiful to be compared to that of Sydney. It 
 is a perfect site for a city, with the wooded ranges 
 of mountains rising on the further shore of the 
 harbour, though it was. not until sunset of the 
 second day of our arrival, that the clouds rolled 
 away sufficiently for us to see them. The two 
 peaks, called the Lions, are wonderfully faithful 
 outlines of the lions in Trafalgar Square. The 
 Indian Mission village lying under the mountains, 
 looks clean and bright. 
 
 Vancouver has a beautiful park. We drove 
 eight* miles round one afternoon and were 
 delighted with it. It is the virgin forest preserved 
 in its natural forest glades, with magnificent 
 Douglas firs, spruce, white pine, cypress, aspen 
 poplar, mountain ash, and giant cedar, whilst 
 bracken ferns and moss grow luxuriantly on the 
 decaying trunks. The road is traced by the side 
 of the sea and English Bay, and the smell of the 
 salt water mingles with the fragrance of the pines 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. lOi 
 
 and cedars. Some of these pines are colossal in 
 girth and height, though not equal to the big trees 
 of the Yosemite. The cedars are great in circum- 
 ference, but not of such height, and the finest 
 specimens are sadly mutilated by lightning. 
 
 The seeds of eternal enmity were sown between 
 Vancouver and Victoria when the former became 
 the port of the railway. This animosity is carried 
 to great extremes. A Victoria man will not ensure 
 his life in a Vancouver office. Sarah Bernhardt 
 is coming here next week, but because she refused 
 the Victorians' offer of $1000 more, Victoria has 
 determined to boycott the performance at Van- 
 couver, and make it a failure. Their childish 
 jealousy may be likened to that between Mel- 
 bourne and Sydney, and Toronto and Montreal. 
 We are sorry not to have time to go to Victoria. I 
 believe it is very pretty, for everybody out here 
 has said : " Oh ! you must see Victoria, it is so 
 pretty, and so very English." This, abroad, is not 
 precisely a recommendation in our eyes. 
 
 Our last afternoon in Vancouver, we went across 
 to Burrard's Inlet, to see the Moodyville Saw 
 Mills. The enormous trunks are raised, attached 
 to hooks, by a pulley out of the water on one side, 
 passed under a saw whose two wheels whirl through 
 and cut up the timber in a few minutes. It is sawn 
 into three planks by another machine, laid on 
 rollers, passed down on the other side of the mill 
 
1 02 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 arid shipped into the steamer loading at the wharf. 
 In three minutes a tree that has taken 300 years to 
 grow (you can reckon its age, if you have patience, 
 in the concentric rings on the trunk), will be sawn 
 up ; in fifteen minutes it will be cut, planed and 
 shipped. The trees we saw operated on were 
 chieiiy Oregon pines. 
 
 Before leaving Canadian soil, there are several 
 things to mention, which we have observed in 
 travelling across the continent. Canada is in 
 many ways quite as much American as English. 
 They have the American system at hotels of making 
 a fixed and inclusive charge of from three to four 
 dollars per day. They also have the varied menu, 
 which I counted at one hotel to include fifty items. 
 True, Oolong, Ceylon, besides English breakfast, 
 tea, and fancy bread of all sorts, is put down to 
 swell the items. Still we have often wished that 
 the assortment of food was smaller, but better 
 served. The Canadians use as much ice water, 
 and consume as largely of fruit at all meals, as 
 the Americans. Carriages are as expensive as 
 in America, the reason being that tramways 
 and electric cars are universally used as means 
 of locomotion. Their railway system of drawing- 
 room cars, sleepers, and dining cars are identical. 
 Nor can their mode of speech be wholly excepted, 
 for a true born and bred Canadian often speaks 
 with an equally pronounced accent as any 
 
The Canadian Rockies and the Selkirks. 103 
 
 American, and makes use of many of their ex- 
 pressions, such as " on such a street, a dry-goods 
 store," etc. 
 
 In the universal and domestic use of electric 
 light, Canada, like America, is twenty years ahead 
 of us. Each little city has it, but then this is a 
 new country and there are no great monopolies as 
 in England to be considered. It is the same 
 with the telephone. All public buildings, offices, 
 shops, and almost every private house in a city 
 has its telephone. A great amount of business is 
 transacted through it, and ladies use it for their 
 daily orders to tradesmen. The convenience is 
 great, but the incessant tinkling of the bell invades 
 the sanctity of home, viz. privacy. A lady re- 
 cently arrived from England rightly called it " the 
 scourge of the country." 
 
 As in America, domestic servants are scarcely 
 obtainable. I found most Canadian ladies thought 
 themselves lucky with one servant, and in luxury 
 with two. A nurse is an unknown necessity to 
 many mothers, who tend their children entirely. 
 This accounts for the number of children travelling 
 (we counted nineteen in two cars on one journey) 
 and in hotels. There is no one to leave them with 
 at home. If unavoidable, they are none the less 
 a noisy nuisance. 
 
 Canada, if she is to be developed, requires 
 a better line of steamers than the Allan to 
 
I04 ■ Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 compete in speed and luxury with the great New 
 York liners. She must be populated, and so long 
 as the White Star and other lines offer such far 
 superior accommodation for the same rates (four 
 pounds) so long will the emigrants select that route. 
 Every trip the looo emigrants landed at New 
 York, are lOOO able-bodied English, Scotch, or 
 Irish men lost to Canada. A strong government 
 should initiate a large immigration scheme, vote a 
 handsome subsidy and ask the Imperial Govern- 
 ment to contribute a similar one. As we have 
 travelled from the Atlantic to the Pacific, we have 
 passed through thousands of miles abounding in 
 natural resources, of mineral wealth and lumber, 
 lying in their primeval state, undeveloped and un- 
 populated, whilst her rivals across the border are 
 increasing rapidly the wealth and prosperity of 
 their country by a free immigration, only wisely 
 refusing to be made, like England, the " dumping " 
 ground for the paupers of other nations. 
 
 Canada languishes for the want of population 
 and capital. Give them to her, and she will 
 become the finest country in the world, and our 
 most prosperous as well as most loyal colony — 
 British to the heart. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 TO THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN. 
 
 On Wednesday, September gth, 1891, we embarked 
 on board the Pacific s.s. Empress of Japan. We 
 congratulate ourselves upon having a roomy cabin 
 exactly amidships on the main deck, and the un- 
 precedented luxury of two drawers and two cup- 
 boards. Otherwise our voyage does not promise 
 well. The C.P.R. thoroughly understands its 
 opportunities, and their putting on three new 
 steamships, the Empresses of Japan, India, and 
 China, is justified by the large number of saloon 
 passengers. Thirty passengers have been their 
 average up to the last voyage, when it was sixty, 
 and this time it is 130. We hope that the 
 resources of the ship will not break down under 
 this strain, but consider it doubtful. The stewards 
 are all Chinese, and excellent they appear, espe- 
 cially our table steward, who boasted the aristo- 
 cratic name of " Guy." 
 
 It was a miserable day, the rain coming down in 
 
io6 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 torrents, and under the wet awnings we dawdled 
 about until the mails, five hours late, arrived. At 
 six o'clock we left the wharf and went " forward" to 
 see this ship of 4000 tons pass through the confined 
 channel of" The Narrows." We could almost have 
 touched the overhanging branches of the trees in 
 the park, so closely did the ship hug the bank. At 
 midnight we stopped opposite to Victoria to take 
 on board some more passengers. They were in a 
 sorry plight, for they had been sitting on an open 
 barge in pitch darkness, and in pouring rain, for 
 six hours. 
 
 The next day was cold, gloomy, and rough. 
 Scarcely a soul but was sick and sorry. The 
 usual whale excited but a feeble interest along the 
 row of deck chairs, occupied by people in varying 
 stages of malaise. We must expect bad weather. 
 In truth we had a miserably cold cheerless voyage 
 across this Northern Pacific Ocean, and it was such 
 a contrast to our bright and sunny passage across 
 the South Pacific, from San Francisco to Auck- 
 and, six years ago. The ship takes a northerly 
 course until we get to the mouth of the Behring 
 Sea. Here we had a miserable Sunday. Such an 
 angry grey sea, crested with white horses, seething 
 and boiling around us. It was abominably rough. 
 Everybody was sea-sick again, and, to complete 
 the tale of woe, there was a dense sea-fog, the 
 decks dripping with this clammy moisture and 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 107 
 
 from the spray, as the Empress's nose was buried 
 in the ocean's waves and, quivering from stem to 
 stern, she rose and shook herself The discordant 
 shriek of the fog-horn was heard all day. Every- 
 body agrees that life on board ship is bearable 
 if you can be on deck, some even may go so far 
 as to enjoy it, though I cannot say that we be- 
 long to that number, but when, as on this occasion, 
 that refuge was denied to us, we were indeed 
 miserable. We had service in the saloon, the 
 little remnant able to appear, and all joined in those 
 familiar prayers, that seem to bind us together 
 on the stormy ocean as " one family in heaven 
 and earth." The Bishop of Exeter, who, with 
 his son, the Bishop of Japan, is on board, preached 
 the sermon. Weary of being knocked about at 
 the mercy of the waves, there was not a soul on 
 board but was thankful when night came, and 
 we sought such rest as we could find in our berths. 
 
 We shall have a Wednesday missing all our 
 lives, that of Wednesday, September 17th, and 
 we have lost a whole day, besides sundry and 
 many half-hours by the putting back of the ship's 
 clock. We are now just half-way round the 
 world from the Greenwich meridian. 
 
 The next day we saw one island of the Aleutian 
 group, and the " early birds " saw a snow-cone on 
 it. These islands extend for many miles at the 
 entrance to the Behring Sea, and we discover that 
 
io8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 in the event of a shipwreck our boats have orders to 
 steer for this island. There are a number of mis- 
 sionaries, from thirty to forty, on board, vs^ho, with 
 their wives and numerous families are bound for 
 China. Some of them are very intolerant, as was 
 shown when the officers got up a dance, and there 
 was some question as to where the piano would 
 come from : " Oh ! " said one, " the devil will be 
 sure to provide that." 
 
 The last two days we experience a sudden 
 change from the intense cold. We awake one 
 morning to find a tropical downpour, accompanied 
 by a damp heat that enervates everybody, and 
 this is accompanied by the tail end of a typhoon, 
 and a grand sea. All ports are closed, the heat 
 below is terrific, and the ship labours and rolls 
 heavily. And thus ends a most disagreeable and 
 lonely voyage, for we have not seen a single sail 
 since leaving Vancouver. 
 
 There is no sensation in the world more 
 delightful than landing in a new country, and 
 especially when it is in such a different corner of 
 the world as Japan. 
 
 Our expectations are vague and enthusiastic, 
 but, alas 1 the approach to Yokohama through 
 the beautiful channel of islands is lost to us. We 
 are on deck at 5 a.m., only to see the lights of 
 the numerous light-houses on the coast extin- 
 guished, and then blotted out in blinding mists 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sitn. 109 
 
 of rain. Fugi, the sacred mountain, whose cone, 
 dominating the whole island, we had been taught 
 to watch for in our first view of Japan, is lost 
 to us. Sullen clouds and the gloomiest grey sky 
 hang over Yokohama. 
 
 The departure from the Empress of Japan is a 
 scene of more than usual confusion, but we get 
 safely down the one gangway, thronged with 
 passengers and their luggage, and into the steam- 
 launch sent for us by the Government, and are 
 soon speeding along the pretty Bund to the 
 Grand Hotel. The first morning on shore after a 
 long voyage is always a harassing one. There are 
 letters to be posted, the money of the country to 
 be obtained, departure of the next steamer to be 
 ascertained, and here in Japan, above all, passports 
 to be seen about, for you cannot leave the Treaty 
 Ports without one. We afterwards found that in 
 an incredibly short space after arriving in any 
 town, the police always came to inquire for a 
 passport. Then we had to engage a guide, with- 
 out which you are assured you cannot travel in 
 Japan. I may at once say that, though we had 
 an excellent guide, we found him an unnecessary 
 nuisance, and parted with him in a few days. In 
 going into the interior of the country you require 
 one to cook and arrange, but keeping to the more 
 beaten tracks you can comfortably manage with- 
 out. 
 
I ro Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Of course we have spent the whole of our 
 first day in Japan in jinrikishas. Everyone does 
 so. Nor can we resist a visit to the curio shops, 
 though we harden ourselves against temptations, 
 knowing that we shall have but too many oppor- 
 tunities to spend in the future. We were glad 
 of this afterwards, for we heard that the curio 
 dealers, on learning the large number of passengers 
 leaving Vancouver on the Empress of Japan, had 
 met together and by agreement raised their prices. 
 In the afternoon we went for a drive round the 
 Bluff, or European Settlement. Yokohama is a 
 treaty port, and at these ports, which were first 
 opened by the efforts of Commodore Perry to 
 foreigners in 1868, a concession of land was allotted 
 to the Europeans, where alone they are allowed 
 to reside. And very charming houses they have 
 built here, coloured red and green, or grey, and 
 buff, with well-kept roads and pretty gardens, 
 fenced in with bamboo hedges. We drive round 
 by the race-course, with its grand stand and white 
 railings just like our Epsom course. The Mikado 
 visits Yokohama once a year to come to the 
 races, and we see his private box on the top of 
 the stand. Then home by the sea-shore and 
 across a plain of rice fields, descending through 
 the Settlement once more. 
 
 Yokohama is a cosmopolitan place and enjoys 
 the glamour of being the landing-place in a new 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 1 1 1 
 
 country and the first sight of a new nation, but 
 it contains nothing of interest. Along the Bund 
 or sea wall is a row of grey verandahed houses, 
 looking very Eastern amongst their palm trees. 
 Behind the sea front there are two or three streets, 
 chiefly containing curio shops, interspersed with 
 many grey walled go-downs with their forbid- 
 ding barred and shuttered windows. People stay 
 at Yokohama, some because the hotel is com- 
 fortable, some, like the American ladies, who, 
 though bringing large boxes of dresses, are so 
 fascinated by the Chinese tailors' prices, that they 
 stay to have more made, others again to haunt 
 the curio shops, and really the selection of 
 articles made with a view to the wants of the 
 ordinary traveller is so good, that you can 
 scarcely do better, we determined afterwards, 
 than shop at Yokohama. Others again are so 
 foolish as to be marked for life, by employing the 
 services of Hori-Chigo, whose advertisement runs 
 thus : " The celebrated Tattooer^ patronized by 
 T.R.H. Princes Albert Victor and George, and 
 known all over the world for his fine and artistic 
 work. Designs and samples can be seen at the 
 Tattooing Rooms." 
 
 Thursday, September 24th. — Such a glorious 
 day, and we took a sudden determination to go at 
 once to Tokio, a short hour's journey. We found, 
 on arriving at the station, our luggage surrounded 
 
112 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 by a group of the smallest of porters in neat blue 
 uniforms, and caps with yellow bands, dubiously 
 surveying my large basket, which was ultimately 
 transported by the help of all. The railways in 
 Japan were built by English engineers, and 
 worked by them, until the Japanese learnt to do it 
 for themselves. They are perfectly English, and 
 the. names of stations, directions, even the mile 
 posts are written in both languages. The fares 
 are extraordinarily cheap, and the third-class 
 crowded, whilst the one first-class carriage on each 
 train is almost exclusively used by Europeans. 
 There are newspapers in the waiting-rooms ; they 
 have the French system of locking you in the 
 latter until shortly before the arrival of the train ; 
 and the American check system for luggage. 
 There was a funny little toy train waiting for us on 
 the very narrow gauge, drawn by a tiny black and 
 yellow engine. The long carriages with their seats 
 lengthways have as many as twenty-two windows, 
 and they are lined with Lincrusta- Walton paper. 
 There is a wooden tray with a tea-pot filled with 
 hot water, and glasses for the tea, which the 
 Japanese are always drinking. When we stop at 
 the stations there is such a cheerful chorus of 
 clicking high-heeled clogs, as the men and the 
 little ladies, with their smiling brown babies on 
 their bent backs, tippet and shuffle along. 
 
 The short run between Tokio and Yokohama is 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 1 13 
 
 perfectly flat, with nothing but rice fields, or if 
 there is a little eminence it is crowned by the 
 dwarf forestry, which is the peculiar feature of 
 Japanese scenery. 
 
 Tokio or Tokyo, is the official capital of Japan. 
 It is the old Yedo of our schoolroom geography. 
 The Minister of Foreign Affairs had sent his secre- 
 tary to meet us at the station, with a carriage simi- 
 lar to an English victoria, drawn by pretty thick- 
 set black Japanese ponies, and with the Indian 
 custom of a running sayce, who jumps off and clears 
 the way at the corners. To the right of the broad 
 canal, along which we are driving, we see a grand 
 structure, which we suppose to be an official building 
 at least, and are surprised when we are told that it 
 is the Imperial Hotel. It is as palatial inside, with 
 its broad staircase and passages, and marble dining 
 hall, and its crowds of obsequious servants, who, 
 hands on knees, slide down in deep bows at every 
 corner, and that drawing in of the breath like a 
 gentle gasp, which in Japan is a sign of great re- 
 spect. The government have shown much enter- 
 prise in assisting to build several of these large 
 hotels by grants of lands and subsidies, thus en- 
 couraging foreign travellers to come and stay. 
 They serve also as places where imperial guests, like 
 the Duke and Duchess of Connaught (who stayed 
 here), and the Czarewitch, can be entertained, as 
 the palaces, owing to their complete absence of 
 
 I 
 
114 Newfoundland io Cochin China. 
 
 furniture, according to the custom of the country, 
 cannot be rendered habitable for the reception of 
 Europeans. 
 
 Tokio, beautiful Tokio, with its multitudinous 
 little brown-eaved houses, crowded in lowly com- 
 pany together, its broad moats, with the green 
 water, over which the mists gather at night and 
 disperse in the early morning sun, its great walls, 
 formed of blocks of stone piled up obliquely with- 
 out the aid of mortar that guard the Shogun's 
 Castle, and the pale-blue grey skies, with the clear 
 bright atmosphere, which lends such a charm and 
 softness to the picturesque scenes around. The 
 charm of Tokio is undefinable. It is so subtle as 
 only to be felt. But wherever you go, you will 
 be always coming back to those miles of solid 
 masonry and those moats with their grassy banks, 
 with a single row of twisted dragon-shaped fir 
 trees at the top — trees, that like all else in Japan, 
 are dwarfed, and where perhaps two or three solemn 
 rooks will perch and caw hoarsely, or even a red- 
 legged stork, with outstretched wings, will flap idly 
 across. 
 
 I shall never forget the delight of our first drive 
 in Tokio. It was enough to be drawn swiftly and 
 silently along in the midst of those broad white 
 roads, shaded by avenues of graceful willows, and 
 see all the strangely fascinating life of every-day 
 Japan passing swiftly by, without going to see 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 1 15 
 
 anything in particular. For the motion of these 
 jinrikishas, the only practicable mode of progression 
 in Japan, is delightfully easy and pleasant. The 
 coolies in their dark blue cotton breeches and loose 
 jacket and large mushroom-shaped hats, go at an 
 easy trot of six miles an hour, and they will do 
 forty miles in one day. This patient, toiling, 
 perspiring race never seem to tire, and their bare 
 brown legs, with their large muscular development, 
 with sinews and veins standing out, and their high 
 regular action, trot as steadily as the rough docile 
 ponies. Their feet are bare, or covered with a 
 straw sandal, kept on by a ribbon passed round 
 the great toe. We see many shops hung with 
 hundreds of these sandals. Their cost is infini- 
 tesimally small, but the roads are strewn with 
 cast-off ones, for they only last for a few journeys. 
 We are driving along by the Inner Moat ; for 
 there are three separate moats surrounding the 
 Castle, and then crossing over a bridge we pass 
 under an ancient stone gateway, and find ourselves 
 between this and another one, equally massive and 
 with iron-plated doors studded with nails. We are 
 shut in by these curious walls of obsolete masonry. 
 Huge blocks of granite are piled up obliquely, one 
 resting on the other for support, without being 
 filled in by earth or mortar. They are broader 
 at the base, slope inwards, and stand by their 
 own weight. Again and again we came upon these 
 I 2 
 
1 16 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Titanic walls in the ancient buildings of Japan, and 
 never ceased wondering how they were first placed 
 in position and then held so, for centuries. Pass- 
 ing through the second archway, we are in a 
 great open space, and above us are the white walls 
 and brown crinkled roofs of the Mikado's palace. 
 There is the grey stone bridge lighted by clusters 
 of electric lamps, across which the I2ist Mikado 
 and the successor of the Shoguns passes to the 
 palace, around which linger mysteries leaving the 
 imagination free to picture the interior, for it is 
 invisible to everyone. The authors of that delight- 
 ful " Social Departure," it is true, saw it, but they 
 dare not record how the permission was obtained. 
 It is said that Mr. Liberty was the last to see this 
 enchanted abode, but then his visit was from a 
 professional view, to give his opinion on the 
 decorations, as one of the great aesthetic decorators 
 of the day. 
 
 The office of the Imperial Household, whither we 
 were bound to call on Monsieur Nagasaki, the 
 Emperor's Master of the CeremonieSj lies under 
 the Imperial Palace. The sentry at the gateway 
 stopped us, but after some parleying we were 
 allowed to proceed on foot, as none but titled 
 Japanese are allowed to pass in a jinrikisha. The 
 officer who accompanied us was typical of the 
 politeness which is the pleasantest feature of the 
 Japanese, and requested a souvenir of our visit in 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 1 1 7 
 
 a visiting card. In coming away we passed the 
 Minister of Justice in a victoria, with a jinrikisha 
 roped behind, containing his detective. 
 
 Tokio is one of the ten largest cities in the world, 
 and v/ith its population of 1,400,000 spread out 
 over an extended area, the distances are great. It 
 has tramways, drawn by the diminutive ponies, 
 and an ear-piercing horn heralds an antique 
 omnibus in the principal thoroughfares. It has 
 electric light, gas, and telephones. Nor is it want- 
 ing in handsome public buildings and ofifices like 
 the Admiralty, the Ministry for Foreign and 
 Home Affairs. The Houses of Parliament are 
 a skeleton of poles, for, just completed last year, 
 they were burnt down immediately and are now 
 rebuilding. We are passing an enclosure with 
 rows of white-washed buildings, little barracks, 
 suited to the little soldiers we see marching bravely 
 along in the streets, and crowned with the sixteen- 
 petalled chrysanthemum, the royal insignia, which 
 is everywhere and on everything. 
 
 Before the afternoon light fails we visit the 
 temples at Shiba Park, the park being a grove of 
 trees under which picturesque groups of children 
 and nurses wander, or ladies stroll about, with 
 their jinrikishas following them. 
 
 The entrance to this succession of mortuary 
 chapels, where the remains of the 7th and 9th 
 Shoguns are buried, is by a gorgeous gate of red 
 
1 1 8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 anc| green and gold — a gate such as we grew to be 
 familiar with, in the ceaseless succession of temples 
 in Japan, for all these Buddhist shrines have a 
 wearisome sameness in common, however beautiful 
 they may individually be. There is a quiet court 
 inside, filled with rows of stone pillars, with a circu- 
 lar pagoda with open holes at the top. They are 
 lanterns offered as a mark of respect by the 
 Daimyos or great nobles to their master. Every 
 August, from the I2th to the i6th, lights are kept 
 burning there to entice the spirits to return during 
 their time of wandering, and not to journey by 
 mistake to hell. Another stone court with more 
 lanterns, and a pagoda-erection to a Minister of 
 War, whither, should a war occur, they hope his 
 spirit would return to watch over it and bring them 
 luck. 
 
 We approach the Temple, with its black roof of 
 crenellated copper, and the overhanging eaves, from 
 each up-curved point of which hangs a tinkling 
 bronze bell, and we can see that this sombre out- 
 side is only a wooden shell to preserve the gilding 
 and brilliant colours of the exterior. 
 
 Our feet are bound up in cotton shoes, and we 
 enter by a side door into an exquisite little 
 sanctum, where the roof is all of lacquer, inlaid 
 with mother-of-pearl, and the panels on the walls 
 are carved in marvellous repoussi work, with 
 flowers and animals. A softened light comes 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 119 
 
 through the open door, and the gold and red and 
 blue and green, melt into a harmony of rich colour- 
 ing, whilst the petal of each flower, the stalk of every 
 leaf, the plumage on the wings of the birds, stand 
 out in startling relief ; and these.'^anels represent 
 storks, with their long red legs, doves with their 
 silver-grey plumage, parrots with red and green 
 tails, and peacocks with fan-spread tails. Or there 
 are such flowers as the sacred lotus, the emblem of 
 Buddhism, the chrysanthemum and the pink peony. 
 One panel of exceptional beauty, is an exquisite 
 spray of tiger lilies, carved in high relief. Tradi- 
 tion says that this was so greatly esteemed by the 
 Shogun, and that the two nails we see were used to 
 hang a cover over it, that no one should see it but 
 himself. The priest throws open the golden 
 trellis-work of a shrine, and shows us three 
 memorial tablets with the Shogun's names inscribed 
 on them. Around it there is a collection of china 
 vases, paper lanterns, and lacquer stands. Passing 
 behind the screen formed of bamboo bound with 
 silken cords, we come to a square room covered as 
 usual with matting, and with the same florid 
 decoration, where there is a row of lacquer boxes 
 each tied up with a cord. They contain the 
 Buddhist books, and are used for the daily 
 prayers. 
 
 Through a grove of glossy-leaved camellias we 
 pass, and mount up some flights of ancient steps 
 
120 Newfo^mdland to Cochin China. 
 
 to another temple. This is the Praying Room in 
 front of the Shogun's Tomb, and is only entered 
 by the Mikado and Archbishop, when they come 
 to worship the great departed on the day of his ' 
 decease. We pass behind this, and ascend yet ' 
 more moss-grpwn steps, to the tomb of the 
 Great Shogun, which is surmounted by a bronze 
 urn, and enclosed within stone parapets and iron 
 railings. The tomb bears the three-leaved 
 asarum, which is the crest of the House, and 
 is seen on many buildings of the date of that 
 dynasty. Since the fall of the Shoguns — or 
 military usurpers of executive power — and the 
 re-establishment to the Imperial City of the 
 present dynasty of Mikados, it has been replaced 
 by the Imperial Chrysanthemum. All is so quiet 
 and solemn here, and the memorial above the 
 tomb is so simple, as compared with the magnifi- 
 cence that goes before," that as Mitford says, " The 
 sermon may have been preached by design, or it 
 may have been by accident, but the lesson i.s 
 there." The 9th, 12th and 14th Shoguns are 
 buried at Shiba, and their three temples, their 
 three praying rooms, and their three bronze urns, 
 stand in precisely similar lines with the one we are 
 at present by. 
 
 In the evening we take jinrikishas and go into 
 the native quarters. If Tokio is charming in day- 
 light, it is simply a fairyland at night. There are 
 
To the Land of the Rising Stin. 121 
 
 no lamps, save for a few electric beacons, that send 
 out their far-reaching flashes over all the city, but 
 the streets are hghted by innumerable pendulous 
 drops of light, that dance and quiver and dart 
 about, and cross and disappear quickly round 
 corners. They are the paper lanterns which hang 
 from the shafts of hundreds of jinrikishas, or are 
 carried by pedestrians, for everyone in Japan 
 carries his own lantern after dark ; and some are 
 pale pink and others red or blue. Now their soft 
 light is reflected on the waters of the moat, 
 or glides quickly and noiselessly round the 
 stone ramparts and reappears like glow-worms on 
 the other side. Now we pass the crimson light 
 streaming out of the little box-like police station, 
 or the barrow of the street vendor with the bulb of 
 light .shining mysteriously from behind his hang- 
 ing curtains. Soft even light falls across the 
 street from the windows of opaque paper, and we 
 can trace the shadows crossing them. Then as we 
 stealthily fly past, we see the dark interior of a 
 shop lighted by a single lamp, under which squats 
 a Rembrandt-like figure, intently working, for in 
 these busy human hives late at night and early 
 morning sees them still at work, or again the leap- 
 ing flames of fire in the centre of the floor light up 
 a family group. Then there is the street vendor, 
 with his flaring torches, and his wares spread out 
 against a wall. There is a festival held in some 
 
122 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 particular street, lighted with hanging designs of 
 crimson paper lanterns, slung from bamboo poles, 
 to the god of writing. Then as we return home 
 through the dark quiet alleys, we hear the fre- 
 quent and melancholy sound of the bamboo flute 
 of the blind shampooer, as he feels his way, stick in 
 hand, along the street. He sounds but two notes, 
 but they have the wail of a world of sorrow in them, 
 that goes to the heart. 
 
 Early the next morning we climbed up some 
 steps and passed into the lovely groves of Ueno 
 Park. The evergreen trees are still here^ but the 
 avenue of cherry trees is bare and leafless, " which 
 presents a uniquely beautiful sight during the 
 blossom season, when the air seems to be filled with 
 pink clouds," and you can scarcely pass under the 
 trees for the showers of falling blossoms. A little 
 farther on there is a sheet of water covered with 
 flat green leaves, which three weeks ago was a mass 
 of pink and white lotus bloom. The blossoming of 
 the cherry, plum, lotus or chrysanthemum are 
 looked upon by the Japanese as national festivals. 
 In fact they are their only holidays, for they have 
 no Sunday or day of rest. The Japanese may be 
 said to have little or no religion. The upper 
 classes never worship at all, and the lower orders 
 are either Buddhists or Shintoists (Shintoism being 
 theworship of manygods), but they practically only 
 go to the temples to offer prayers, accompanied by 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 123 
 
 money to the gods, if they have any special request 
 to make, such as for a good harvest, or recovery 
 from sickness. 
 
 There are many little tea-houses at Ueno Park, 
 and their waiting damsels smile in a friendly 
 manner and beckon us in, but we cross the road 
 and leave this pleasant corner of the park, where 
 the simple people come to drink tea and amuse 
 themselves, and pass under one of those solemn 
 archways hewn out of single blocks of stone, a 
 torii or bird's rest. They are such grand yet 
 simple monuments of a dead past, and are found 
 at the entrance to all the temples in Japan. We 
 wander up the stone-paved avenue, through the 
 solemn stillness of the great cryptomeria avenue, 
 towards the Buddhist Temple at the end. This 
 Temple, with its neighbouring pagoda, is more than 
 usually brilliant, being recently restored, but the 
 charm lies in its surroundings — in the quiet fir 
 groves, and the clumps of camellia trees, in the 
 pink blossoms of the monkey tree, and the solemn 
 cawing of the rooks, in the click-click of the 
 wooden sandals of the dear little waddling ladies 
 as they saunter along the pavement, with their 
 close-shaven children by their sides, so exactly like 
 the Japanese dolls we know at home. But in the 
 centre of this peaceful scene is a switchback railway, 
 whose noisy clatter profanes the stillness, but of 
 which the Japanese are truly proud. We pass a 
 
124 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 fortune stone. It is old and chipped, covered with 
 hieroglyphics and bespattered with dirty pellets of 
 paper, which are chewed first into a pulp and then 
 thrown at it. If they adhere, it is considered a 
 lucky omen. 
 
 After quickly passing through the Museum, a 
 white Moorish building erected for the Exhibition, 
 and which is as dull as museums usually are, we 
 had one of those fascinating drives through the 
 streets to the shop of the most celebrated cloisonne 
 maker in Japan, and by special appointment to the 
 Mikado. There was nothing exposed in the shop 
 front, but leading us to the inmost recesses 
 at the back, one by one with reverent care, each 
 article was produced from its wooden case and 
 foldings of cr^pe and cotton wool, and placed with 
 justifiable pride before us, for this prince of de- 
 signers, Namikawa, is the greatest living artist in 
 Japan, and exists only for the production of the 
 masterpieces of his art. The exceeding tenderness 
 of the pale grey, darkening into lilac, forming the 
 background for a cock whose plumage, faithfully 
 delineated, is shown by the outline of every feather, 
 the rose pink, the translucent yellow — it is impos- 
 sible to convey the delicate tones of colour, or the 
 life-like drawing of his plaques and vases. 
 
 We subsequently saw the many processes through 
 which cloisonne passes, and it is not until you have 
 seen the skill and delicate workmanship required. 
 
To the Land of the Rising Stm. 125 
 
 that you really begin to appreciate cloisonne. 
 And the same may be said about lacquer, which 
 requires knowing to be fully understood. First the 
 vase must be fashioned in copper, then the designer 
 must delineate from memory some intricate design 
 of flowers or birds or landscape. This again has 
 to be reproduced in tiny pieces of wire, pinched 
 and twisted deftly into shape and soldered on to 
 the copper. The interstices of the wire are filled 
 in with the brilliant colours that we see in the 
 saucers by the side of the workers, and the mixing 
 of these is the secret which ensures success. Five 
 times the colours are " filled," and five times burnt 
 in the kilns, and then the polisher with his different 
 coarsenesses of stones polishes it into a burnished 
 and chaste work of art. 
 
 Apart from temples, there is not much to see at 
 Tokio, but it is the streets which fascinate you so 
 completely, that waking and sleeping you dream 
 of these, and you want to be always out and 
 amongst the bright life tfiat flows through them. 
 To get any idea of Japan you must always 
 remember that everything is so ridiculously 
 small. Life here is in miniature. Everything is 
 lilliputian ; beginning with the little houses, con- 
 tinuing with the little men and women and their 
 tiny children, and ending with the little ponies, for 
 there are no horses in Japan. And so to imagine 
 a Japanese street, you must picture to yourself 
 
1 26 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 rows of little brown houses, many of only one 
 storey, with large overhanging eaves. The in- 
 terior is wide open and only raised one step 
 from the street, and you look across the brightly 
 burnished floor through the opening of the 
 paper sliding screens, which are thrown back in 
 the daytime, and catch pretty glimpses of the 
 home life in the back yard. Many of the shops 
 are hung with funereal-looking purple and black 
 hangings, inscribed with white hieroglyphics giving 
 the names and nature of their wares. You recog- 
 nize the chemist's shop by the gold tablets setting 
 forth the details of the pharmacopoeia within. 
 There are barbers' shops, with a half-shaven cus- 
 tomer with upturned chin seated in the chair ; 
 drapers' with samples of bright-coloured stuffs hung 
 round a revolving wheel outside ; toy-shops where 
 are sold those paper kites and tiniest of shuttlecocks, 
 or hobgoblin horses and animals of impossible 
 shape and size, with which the children play in 
 the street. There are others hung with nothing but 
 strings of straw sandals, or wooden clogs ; grain 
 shops where the clean white green and red seeds 
 are sorted into baskets of samples. Here is one 
 for the sale of sake, the brandy of Japan, piled up 
 with huge barrels, and with those tapering blue and 
 white bottles which we are accustomed to use for 
 flower-vases, but which are really manufactured to 
 hold this popular beverage. And then the china 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 1 2 7 
 
 shops ; they are an incessant delight, with their 
 hundreds of dear little common blue and white rice 
 bowls, their artistic tea-pots of pale green ware 
 with a spray of apple blossom, their hibachis, or 
 china flower-pots of deep blue, green or bronze 
 ware, which are used for the hot ashes to light 
 the pipe witli, and are found on the floor of all tea- 
 houses. Again, we must look at this stationer's, 
 where that soft crinkled tissue paper is sold, and 
 the brushes with which the Japanese write so 
 swiftly and deftly, that the ink is absorbed 
 without blotting into the paper. In Japan they do 
 everything upside down. The horses stand with 
 their tails in their mangers and their heads where 
 their tails should be. Locks revolve contrariwise, 
 and the carpenters plane towards, instead of away 
 from the person. So with writing ; they write from 
 the bottom of the page to the top, and from right to 
 left, and the number of their characters is appalling. 
 You must know from 3000 to 4000 characters to 
 write Japanese at all, and an educated man will 
 require some 6000 ; and the disappointing thing 
 is that when a foreigner has mastered this, the 
 literature opened up to him off'ers no reward for 
 his labour, as it practically does not as yet exist. 
 
 See this fruit shop, where bunches of pale grey- 
 green water-grapes, brown pears, and plentiful 
 supplies of green figs are spread temptingly out, 
 interspersed with bunches of those luscious orange 
 
128 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 persimmons that melt in the mouth, and taste like 
 a ripe apricot ; this umbrella emporium, where 
 paper umbrellas^ oiled to make them waterproof, 
 are open inviting inspection ; a tea-shop, where the 
 tea is kept in gigantic jars striped purple and 
 green ; a greengrocer's, with oblong sweet potatoes 
 in their pink skins, and turnips of abnormal 
 length ; a basket shop, where bamboo baskets of 
 every shape and size are to be had ; or a fish- 
 monger's, where the delicate pink and rainbow 
 scaled fish, are exposed daintily for sale on bright 
 blue and green china dishes. Nor must I forget 
 the confectioners' shops, where from a tiny oven 
 heated by charcoal, we see the most attractive 
 little pink, green, . chocolate and white sugared 
 cakes turned out and placed in alternate rows on 
 trays. It is most amusing to see the extreme 
 economy of the heating arrangements. Four tiny 
 pieces of charcoal, turned over and husbanded 
 together by a pair of iron tongs, suffice to cook a 
 meal. The Government do not allow shops to 
 sell European and Japanese goods together, so 
 that now and again you pass one full of Man- 
 chester atrocities, gaudy stuffs, ill-shaped English 
 umbrellas, cheap lamps, boots, hats, and under- 
 clothing, which you turn away from, to seek once 
 more the tasteful display of the native stores. 
 
 And what a medley of scenes there are, and 
 what a flow of life confined in these narrow streets 
 
'A LHTLE MOTHER." 
 
 Page 129. 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 129 
 
 with thefr one-storej'ed houses. Coolies harnessed 
 by ropes to drays full of rice, answering one 
 another with their musical patient cry of Huydah- 
 Houdah ; itinerant vendors with bamboo poles 
 slung across the shoulder, and suspended trays 
 filled with every imaginable variety of article ; 
 Buddhist priests with their shaven heads, and 
 white dresses with flowing sleeves, covered with 
 black cr^pe. 
 
 Mingling with the crowd of dear little men and 
 women in their graceful flapping kimonos, are' 
 the little girl " mothers," who at the age of ten 
 bend their backs and have a baby brother or 
 sister tied on. Happy babies they are, brown and 
 contented, as are their scantily-clothed kindred, 
 who obey an instinct of nature in making mud; 
 pies and dust castles by the roadside. Here is a 
 closed van on wheels, painted black, being drawn 
 by policemen. It is a " Maria " with a prisoner 
 peering out between the bars. 
 
 Every now and again we meet a funeral. The 
 coffin is a square deal box, slung on bamboo 
 poles, for the deceased has been placed in it in a 
 sitting posture with the knees up to the chin. It 
 is only another form of the economy of materia!, 
 that forms such an especial feature in all things 
 Japanese. However, this people understood long 
 before we did, the use of lovely wreaths of coloured 
 flowers, to mitigate the gloom of mourning, and the 
 
 K 
 
130 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 coffin is hung with them. Ancestor- worship takes 
 a prominent part in Japanese religion, and now we 
 understand at last the use of those elaborate 
 gold and lacquer cabinets, with outer and inner 
 folding doors, that you so often see in England. 
 These cabinets are intended as the shrines where 
 the little golden memorial tablets, in the form of 
 small gravestones, and engraved with the name of 
 the deceased, are kept at home. The deceased is 
 always given a posthumous name, as, not believing 
 in the immortality of the soul, but rather in its 
 transmigration into an animal, they say that he 
 has ceased to exist altogether, and has changed 
 his state and lives under a new name. These 
 memorial cabinets are found in all the houses of 
 the upper classes. 
 
 The pictures that we know of these little 
 Japanese ladies are the most faithful reproductions. 
 Wrapped tightly round in their kimonos, with 
 the bunch of the obi formed by its folding over at 
 the back, their figures take the graceful bend and 
 curve we see pourtrayed. The loose flowing 
 sleeves, and the soft folds around the neck, and 
 open at the throat, are so pretty. Their under- 
 clothing consists of several loose garments of 
 crepe, which is the material exclusively used by the 
 upper classes, and their hips are so tightly bound 
 that no European woman could stand it. They 
 treat their hips as we do our waists, their object 
 
To the Land of the Rising Stin. 131 
 
 being to be perfectly straight. When this was 
 explained to me, I understood how it was that an 
 extra breadth is put into the kimonos bought 
 by Europeans. It is curious that, though the 
 Japanese bathe so frequently, they are not par- 
 ticular as to changing their underclothing. The 
 women wear white stockings with a pocket 
 for the great toe, and " getas " formed of a sole, 
 of wood, perched on two high clogs of the 
 same, and kept on by a leash. Thus, when 
 they enter a house, they leave their clogs at the 
 door, and go about on the spotless matting in 
 their stockings. As they sit and eat off the floors, 
 they cannot allow the dirt of outside boots to be 
 brought in, and all Japanese houses are scrupu- 
 lously clean. ; 
 The kimonos of ladies are m.ade in delicate, 
 quiet-toned stuffs of pale grey or fawn colour ; but 
 simple as some of them appear, the stuffs of which 
 they are made are so costly that, even unem- 
 broidered, they will cost as much as 300 dollars. 
 And then their obis, those broad sashes of the 
 richest brocades and satins — on them they lavish 
 all their pride and money, and they often descend 
 as heirlooms in a family. The dressing of their 
 hair is one long-continued source of admiration; 
 it is such black glossy hair, and the coils are so 
 immaculately smooth. There are but two styles 
 of headdress for the whole country — one for the 
 K 2 
 
132 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 married ladies, and one for the single ; and so you 
 can always distinguish their state in life at a 
 glance. The married women have it dressed in a 
 single extended roll, with inlaid combs and coral- 
 headed pins placed round ; whilst the unmarried 
 ladies wear their hair divided by a silk or gauze 
 ribbon into two flat coils placed on either side of 
 the head, and have still more decoration in the 
 way of glass bead pins. And as to the little girls, 
 they are the counterpart of their mothers, and from 
 the earliest ages wear theirs in a similar manner. 
 It used to be the custom for married women to 
 have their teeth blackened, to prevent their receiving 
 admiration from men other than their husbands ; 
 but this is dying out, and you now only see old 
 married women in country districts following this 
 obsolete fashion. • No Japanese woman ever walks. 
 She shuffles, she scuffles, she tippets along, 
 balancing on her high-heeled getas ; but step 
 out the necessary stride for a walk, no, they cannot 
 do that, for their kimonos are so narrow that they 
 cannot move otherwise than with their knees 
 knocking together. They are not pretty, these 
 meek, gentle-looking, brown-skinned creatures, 
 yet their sweet deprecating manners are very 
 attractive. They are excellent mothers ; more 
 excellent wives, in their complete subjection and 
 utter want of initiative. The sum total of their 
 education is implicit reverence and obedience, first 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 133 
 
 to parents, subsequently to husbands ; and at the 
 Peeress' school at Tokio, we are told that they 
 are so afraid that the modern education giVen 
 there to the daughters of the nobles will militate 
 against this ideal, that particular lectures are given 
 on the subject. 
 
 The men, so long as they wear the native dress, 
 are dark, pleasant-looking httle men ; but when 
 you see them, as you frequently do now. With a 
 kimono surmounted by a brown or black pot-hat, 
 a solar topee, or even a tweed stalking-cap, 
 they are positively evil and unpleasant to look 
 at. 
 
 Viscount Okabe, so long Minister in London, 
 took us for a drive in the afternoon, and then we 
 had time, before a pleasant dinner with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Fraser at the British Legation, to go to the 
 Theatre. 
 
 The corridor is covered with piles of sandles and 
 umbrellas, whilst from the adjoining kitchens come 
 savoury and nauseous smells. The floor of the 
 Theatre slopes upwards from the stage, and is 
 divided into square compartments, neatly matted, 
 and intended for family boxes. The galleries are 
 divided in the same way. And here groups of ladies 
 and gentlemen are encamped fqr the whole day, 
 for a Japanese theatre begins at 9 a.m. and lasts 
 for ten hours ; nor is this all, for the same piece 
 may be continued from day to day, and last for 
 
1 34 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 SIX weeks. It is now five in the afternoon, and 
 yet the audience maintain a deep interest and 
 breathless gaze on the stage. 
 
 This is the outline of the story. The lank, 
 die-away lady we see trailing across the stage" has 
 retired to a wood, with a rill of crystal water, to 
 live in a temple, there, to mourn the death of her 
 father^ in a war. The young man who was (un- 
 known to her) his murderer, passes casually along 
 and she falls in love with him. This love-making, 
 in the drawling nasal accents, and its tediously 
 slow movements, is most unreal, and as they drink 
 the loving cup of sak6 together, the father's dis- 
 approving spirit, in a rushing flame of fire, blazes 
 up from the temple. Darkness drowns the 
 applause, and warriors rush on the scene and 
 begin to fight the maiden, who mesmerizes them, 
 until one by one they fall at her feet. 
 
 The orchestra is represented by five musicians, 
 perched up on a rock. I may say at once that, 
 artistic as is the nature of the Japanese, their 
 idea of music is absolutely nil. It consists of 
 a series of grunts and groans, or of nasal notes 
 in a bass key, or of falsetto in a high one. 
 
 But the interest lies to us in the audience, who, 
 in the interval of twenty minutes, eat their evening 
 meal. Some have brought their food with them, 
 and nearly all their own china teapots, for a con- 
 stant supply of tea. Others buy theirs, and are 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun, 135 
 
 provided with a succession of little wooden bowls 
 piled on each other, and for which they have to 
 pay the usual theatre price of ten cents, or double 
 the ordinary one. In each box there is a hibachi, 
 or china bowl full of hot ashes, where they light 
 their pipes, for men and women are continually 
 smoking, and their pipes have the smallest bowl, 
 the size of a thimble — two whiffs and it is empty 
 again ; but it is sufficient for their modest wants. 
 
 September 26th. — I am writing in the most 
 delightful real Japanese house, far away in the 
 midst of these beautiful mountains of Nikko. 
 
 The thin wooden frame of the house is covered 
 with luminous parchment paper, and these are 
 the walls that divide us from the outside world. 
 They are not permanent ones, for they slide back 
 one behind the other, a succession of paper screens, 
 until the house is open to the street and there is 
 only the shell of a habitation left in the roof, and 
 one paper wall behind. The second-floor storey 
 (if there is one) is marked by a long balcony 
 running completely round, and here in cupboards 
 at either end are kept the wooden shutters that 
 slide' into grooves and close in the balconies, in 
 winter and at night, and give to all the houses the 
 dull appearance of a blank wooden wall at sun- 
 down. Inside, the roof and floors are of white 
 wood, and the latter is covered with spotless 
 matting ; but I am glad to say that there are 
 
136 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 European concessions here, in the shape of a 
 table, chair, and washatand and bed, on which is 
 laid a clean starched kimono to go to the bath in. 
 In a Japanese house we should find no furniture 
 at all. Their rooms are absolutely bare ; they 
 eat, sit and sleep on the floor, and from out of a 
 cupboard in a recess will come the " futons," or 
 thick wadded quilts, and the square piece of wood 
 with a hollow for the neck, where a soft wad of 
 paper is inserted, and which is used for a pillow 
 by the ladies to save their elaborate headdress 
 from getting deranged. As they cannot dress 
 their hair themselves, it is only done occa- 
 sionally, and must thus be considered even when 
 sleeping. 
 
 The construction of these houses is so delight- 
 fully simple, for, excepting the polished ladder 
 which leads upstairs, there is no plan of the rooms. 
 They are made larger or smaller, more or less, 
 according to the want of the hour, by means of 
 those successions of sliding screens, and a little 
 pushing and sliding will make the large room you 
 are using, into five or six smaller ones in a second. 
 These tea-houses are charming in their compact 
 simplicity, their faultless cleanliness, and particular 
 neatness. 
 
 It was at four o'clock this afternoon that we 
 arrived at Nikko, and drove from the station 
 through the end of the great cryptomeria avenue. 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 137 
 
 past the village, until the jinrikisha was suddenly 
 shot round a corner, down a narrow passage, and 
 stopped at the courtyard step of the Suzuki Hotel. 
 Here quite a little crowd of bowing attendants 
 received us with many deep salaams, and sucking- 
 in of breath ; one relieved me of an umbrella, 
 another of a cloak, and another of a book, and 
 went before us, encouraging us with graceful ges- 
 ticulations and faces wreathed in smiles to enter 
 the house, impressing us in an indescribably 
 charming manner that we were showing them 
 but too much honour in doing so. Of course we 
 drank tea — it is the first ceremony on entering any 
 Japanese house ; and then came the second one — 
 the solemn ceremony of the bath. 
 
 Bathing is the passion and pastime of the 
 Japanese, and they bathe as often as two or three 
 times a day. In all towns there are public baths, 
 where, in the evening, the population meet to 
 gossip and take a bath for the modest price of two 
 cents. Not long ago men and women in a state 
 of nature bathed together, but Government has 
 forbidden this now. However, we visited one 
 where a wall separated the bath, but still left the 
 entrance to both open to the public view. In 
 villages there will be a tub or barrel outside every 
 door, and one evening we saw a man preparing 
 his bath, with a fire kindling under the zinc bottom 
 of his tub. They take their baths as hot as 1 10° 
 
138 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Fahrenheit, and for some unexplained reason 
 foreigners find that cold or lukewarm baths are 
 unsuited to the climate, and adopt the native 
 temperature. The rule at hotels is that the 
 first arrival is entitled to the first use of the bath. 
 
 To take up the thread of the story, we left Tokio 
 at eleven this morning, the Foreign Office sending 
 a carriage to take us to Ueno station. 
 
 Through groves of cryptomeria, maple, fir, 
 willow, wild cherry and Spanish chestnuts we 
 travel. Past great clumps of bamboo, which to 
 see only is to be able to picture the mighty 
 growth of their graceful, feathery foliage ; by 
 picturesque villages, with their angular brown 
 thatched roofs crowding low down over their 
 mud-wattled walls, nestling amongst banyon groves 
 interspersed with persimmon trees, bare of leaves 
 but laden with bunches of golden fruit. Then we 
 emerge on to the open country, where the cultiva- 
 tion is so exquisitely neat that it resembles a succes- 
 sion of kitchen gardens. There are no hedges, 
 and no grass, but the whole land is taken up by 
 small patches of onions, turnips, maize, millet, 
 sweet potatoes, and the broad caladium-like leaf of 
 another species of potatoes, whose English equiva- 
 lent to the Japanese name I failed to discover. 
 These alternate with rice fields, where the bright 
 yellow tells of the ripening and bursting of thegrain. 
 The soil is rich and black, and labour is done by 
 
H 
 
 U 
 
 o- 
 u 
 
 2 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 139 
 
 hand-spade, but the absence of pasture strikes us. 
 However, there are few cows or oxen, and no 
 sheep, numberless experiments failing to rear them ; 
 and the ponies live on chopped straw, beans and 
 the refuse of grain. 
 
 An hour before reaching Nikko we pass into the 
 mountains. It is such a picturesque, well-wooded 
 range, this Nikko chain of mountains, and they all 
 bear that peculiar Japanese characteristic of rising 
 straight out of the plain, ending with sharp three- 
 sided cones, and like all else in this country, 
 though lofty, they are on a small scale, toy moun- 
 tains that seem to fit in with the miniature 
 picture. 
 
 We had time after our arrival at Nikko, and 
 before dusk, to pass through the village, across 
 the wonderful red lacquer bridge, and follow- 
 ing a grass path to come to a Waterfall. On 
 the rock opposite is inscribed the word Ham- 
 mon, and the legend goes, that as no one could, 
 as we see, possibly cross the fall to write it, an 
 artist threw his pen at the rock and it inscribed 
 this Sanskrit word. And now in the growing twi- 
 light we pass along under the shadow of a row of 
 mutilated grey idols, each squatted on his pedestal 
 with crossed hands, looking over the stream. I 
 counted 120 figures, but no two people have ever 
 been known to make the same number. At the 
 head of this solemn avenue of gods there is a 
 
140 Newfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 larger one facing the others. They are supposed 
 to be the Judges before whom the spirits of the 
 departed pass, and are judged whether they shall 
 go to heaven or hell ; and hence they are covered 
 with many paper labels, the prayers of relatives for 
 the deceased, that grace may be granted them by 
 the gods. It is a solemn tribunal, with its presiding 
 judge, and each face is different in expression, and 
 yet they are such mobile, expressionless faces, as 
 if to represent a dispassionate and unbiassed 
 judgment. 
 
 After dinner we adjourned into an empty room, 
 when a man appeared with a card, and before we 
 could look round the whole room was full of 
 merchants producing out of their cotton bundles, 
 beautiful carved ivories, bronzes, silver, china, lac- 
 quer, and furs, for Nikko produces excellent ones. 
 They are so persuasive, and ingratiate their wares 
 all round into your hands, that it is with difficulty 
 we escape ; and making our airy chambers a little 
 less so by having the shutters run out of their 
 cupboard, we are soothed to sleep by the wailing 
 sounds of the samisen, that comes from the 
 brightly-lighted little tea-house on the opposite 
 hill. 
 
 It is amusing the next morning to dress with the 
 wall of the room thrown back, and to hear the con- 
 stant shuffle of sandals, or the clatter of the clogs 
 as these little men and women in their flapping 
 
To the Land of the Rising Sun. 141 
 
 draperies cross the yard ; and this courtyard is so 
 characteristic. It is but a few square feet in 
 dimensions, yet there is a dragon -shaped fir-tree 
 in the centre, whose outstretched arms are sup- 
 ported by bamboo poles, which form a little 
 arbour with a seat in it ; then there is a stone 
 lantern and a bronze stork, a lamp-post and a 
 wandering paved pathway, that gives a great idea 
 of distance. 
 
 We go directly after breakfast to the Temples to 
 see the tombs of the Shoguns. They are three 
 hundred years old, and as beautiful as carving, 
 colour and design can make them. We ascend up 
 a winding flight of stone steps through the gloom 
 of a magnificent avenue of cryptomerias. They 
 are tremendously tall, impressive trees, with 
 their moss-grown trunks and stems, and these 
 steps wind through their midst, a fit leading up to 
 the great mausoleums. Passing the courts of a 
 monastery, we are first shown a Buddhist temple 
 where, hidden behind the silk-bound bamboo 
 blinds, there are three colossal gold Buddhas seated 
 cross-legged on lotus leaves. In the mysterious 
 gloom, they look solemnly and indifferently into 
 space. On the platform by this temple there is 
 suspended a big bronze bell, which is sounded by 
 a pole propelled against the side. As we stand 
 there it gives forth its sonorous musical toll, and at 
 every hour of the day its sweet and solemn note 
 
142 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 echoes over the valley. Then, seated in a semi- 
 circle, the priests of Buddha begin to chant the 
 morning orisons, droning in a nasal tone, and with 
 the accompanying tom-tom of a drum. We leave 
 them to pass on to, the tomb of the great warrior 
 Shogun, Yeyasu. 
 
 The wide road, bordered by those walls of mor- 
 tarless blocks of stone, leads up to the flight 
 of steps and an elaborate Sammon or gateway, 
 the entrance to the first temple. There are. a 
 number of wooden tablets outside, on which are 
 inscribed the names of the subscribers to the 
 fabric of the temple. The inner court is full of 
 interest, for you must imagine that all the build- 
 ings it contains are covered with decorations and 
 paintings. One of the storehouses where pictures, 
 furniture, and other articles belonging to Yeyasu 
 are kept, has carvings in relief of elephants, in 
 which the joints of the hind legs are turned in the 
 wrong direction. There is the tree which the 
 Shogun carried about in his palanquin with him 
 when it was still small enough to travel in a flower- 
 pot, and the stable for the sacred white pony, kept 
 for the use of the god ; over which is a very clever 
 group of three monkeys, representing the three 
 countries of India, China, and Japan. One monkey 
 shows he is blind by covering his eyes with his 
 hand, another deaf by stopping his ears, and a third 
 dumb by closing his mouth. The one signifies 
 
PAGODA OF THE TEMPLE AT NIKKfJ 
 
 Page 142. 
 
To the Land of the Rising Stin. 143 
 
 that you must see no evil ; the other that you must 
 hear no evil ; the last that you must speak no evil. 
 
 The water cistern, hung round as is usual in 
 these temples with coloured rags, is formed of a 
 single block of granite, so evenly cut that the 
 water flowing over it is a glassy, imperceptible 
 surface. Next to it is a library, where through the 
 grating we see a revolving book-case made of 
 lacquer with gilt columns, containing a complete 
 collection of the Buddhist scriptures. 
 
 And now we come to the exquisitely beautiful 
 gate of the Yomeimon, with its graceful arabesques 
 founded upon the peony pattern, its niches and 
 columns, its golden clawed dragons and groups of 
 Chinese sages, which leads into the inner court of 
 the temple. Surrounded by open trellis-work 
 screens, we pass up several flights of steps, and take 
 off" our boots by the huge bronze money-box 
 waiting for offerings. The interior is filled with 
 a dim light, but you are in the midst of a place so 
 rich in subdued soft colour, so embroidered in 
 elaborate designs and. harmonizing tones, that it is 
 some minutes before you can at all appreciate the 
 full beauty. The ceiling is formed of squares 
 divided by ribs of black lacquer and enamelled in 
 peacock blue and green ; there are gilt carved 
 screens, where perch birds of paradise, doves, 
 parrots, ducks, peacocks ; others where the asarum 
 or peony, the royal flower, the lily, and the lotus, are 
 
144 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 carved in high relief. And the ante-cha mbers on 
 either side are equally perfect ; in one there is a 
 carved and painted ceiling with an angel surrounded 
 by a chrysanthemum, and some boldly executed 
 eagles ; in another, pictures of unicorns on a gold 
 ground, and some phoenixes. 
 
 Mausoleum of Yeyasu. 
 
 In an adjoining temple a woman in scarlet and 
 white draperies performed a sacred dance. It is 
 a slow and graceful movement ; the bells in her 
 hand keep rhythmical time, while she amuses and 
 charms away the evil spirit from the dead Shogun. 
 We have now a long pilgrimage to perform, up to 
 
To the Land of the Rising Stin. 145 
 
 the platform on high, where rests the body of 
 Yeyasu. The ancient stone stairs, the balustrade 
 and columns, are clothed in the most vivid green 
 moss, whilst the cryptomerias form a dark archway 
 above. There is complete silence around. The 
 place is damp and deserted. We might, from 
 their moss-grown appearance, be the first to tread 
 these steps for a thousand years, and slowly 
 mounting them, we feel we are breaking the spell 
 that has hung over them, as we find ourselves on 
 the stone terrace at the top. Here there is a 
 praying temple, and we pass round to the tomb at 
 the back. It is a simple bronze urn, shaped 
 like a small pagoda, with a stone table in front, on 
 which is placed a bronze stork with a candle in its 
 mouth, an incense burner, and a vase of artificial 
 lotus flowers. Such is the end of all greatness. 
 
 Returning home, we took jinrikishas for the 
 mountain expedition to Lake Chuzenji. For some 
 miles we travel by the side of the river's bed and 
 between the mountains, meeting many pack-ponies 
 laden with merchandise, shod like ther" men with 
 straw sandals. It looks rainy, and the men have 
 donned their waterproof coats, and these consist of 
 a straw mantle formed like a thatch ; when you 
 see a fisherman standing in the water with his legs 
 immersed, and only this thatch above, it produces 
 the most comical efifect of a floating haystack. As 
 we begin climbing the mountain road, we see 
 
 L 
 
1 46 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 many strange and beautiful new shrubs, flowers, 
 and trailing creepers growing amongst the rocks. 
 Soon a tea-house comes in sight, with the front 
 entirely open, and pretty sliding screens of blue 
 paper. Cushions are placed on the floor and tea 
 broughtby a welcome-smiling damsel. It is pale, 
 straw-coloured tea made from the young undried 
 shoot of the tea-plant, and it is not allowed to 
 infuse, but is poured straight into the tiny handle- 
 less cups, with two or three leaves at the bottom, 
 and served on a lacquer tray with pink and white 
 sweetmeats. But how artistic is the design on the 
 common bronze kettle hanging over the open fire 
 in the centre of the room, and kept always boiling 
 for tea to be quickly made ; how delicate the pale 
 blue colour of the thin eggshell cups, with the 
 spray of cherry blossom. It is one of the many 
 charms of Japan, that art is brought into use in all 
 the appurtenances of daily life. 
 
 The ascent to Chuzenji, right into the heart of 
 the mountains, is perfectly lovely. I have never 
 seen grander or more charming scenery. When we 
 rest for a minute at one of the many tea-houses, 
 there is such a splendid view of two cascades 
 flowing down a rocky precipice. It is the meeting- 
 place of several valleys, and the joining of several 
 mountain spurs, and there is an open park-like 
 space, which looks so green and smiling amid these 
 rugged fastnesses. There is a movement in those 
 
71? the Land of the Rising Sun. 147 
 
 bushes in the valley ! It is a troop of monkeys 
 jumping from branch to branch ; for Japan is a 
 strange mixture of tropical and hardy growths. 
 You find the flowers and plants of north latitudes 
 growing beside the palms and fruits of the tropics. 
 The ascent becomes more and more trying, though 
 this good, new road was hurried over, to be finished 
 for the visit of the Czarewitch last year, which 
 never took place, owing to his attempted assassina- 
 tion by a fanatic near Kyoto. 
 
 Clouds came down as we reached the pretty fall 
 at the summit, so we only heard its roar^ dulled 
 by the thick mist ; but they cleared away again, as 
 we came to the shores of the lake, 4375 feet above 
 the sea. The deserted houses in the village are 
 used by the pilgrims who come here in August, 
 We rested on the balcony of a tea-house over- 
 hanging the lake, and then the descent was accom- 
 plished in one unbroken run, one coolie acting as a 
 drag behind, whilst the other in the shafts steadied 
 the jinrikisha round the sharp curves. 
 
 September 2%th. — We spent a long morning 
 amongst the Tombs again, and we shall carry away 
 with us such a vision of picturesquely pointed 
 black roofs, outlined in gold and red, and graceful 
 bamboo groves, of moss-grown flights of steps under 
 the shadow. of stately avenues of cryptomerias, of 
 ancient stone walls with a vista leading to massive 
 torii. We shall dream of tha many solemn rows 
 
 L 2 
 
148 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 of stone lanterns, of gateways bright with rainbow 
 hues and guarded by dragon monsters, of the 
 bronze urns hidden away up on those quiet nooks 
 in the mountains, and above all of the enchanted 
 atmosphere, the deep stillness, the solemn peace 
 that rests over these shrines of the dead. 
 
 We waited on the steps of the templ'e to hear 
 the big bronze bell slowly send out its voice once 
 more at midday across the valley, and then came 
 home. 
 
 On our return journey to Tokio in the afternoon 
 we took jinrikishas to Imaicho, the station beyond 
 Nikko, so as to drive five miles through the magni- 
 ficent cryptomeria grove that runs parallel with 
 the railway. The avenue extends for fifty miles, 
 and was used by the envoy of the Mikado when 
 he sent to offer presents at the tomb of Yeyasu. 
 These cryptomerias are grand trees, with their 
 stately trunks shooting up in regular lines, whilst 
 their long branches only grow from their summits, 
 and intertwining make a dim twilight below. 
 
 On arriving at Tokio, we had a drive through 
 the fairyland of its glimmering streets. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NEW NIPPON. 
 
 We were up early to get a glimpse of the Mikado 
 as he passes to open some new barracks. His 
 route is lined with policemen, pigmy but efficient 
 guardians of the peace, with their white duck uni- 
 forms and large swords. The morning mists are 
 floating off the grey green moats, as we pass into 
 quite a new quarter of Tokio, where the noblemen 
 have their palaces, amid gardens green with willows 
 and acacias. We drive past the red brick build- 
 ings of the Peeress' School, the New Police Build- 
 ings, and the Dowager Empress' Palace, guarded 
 by sentries, until we come out on the exercising 
 ground before the barracks. 
 
 Scattered about this plain are companies of 
 infantry and cavalry, mounted on small black 
 ■ponies, whilst a band is being marched inside the 
 barrack square, where are anxious-looking groups 
 of officers in gala dress, ablaze with decorations 
 of the Order of the Chrysanthemum and Rising 
 Sun, awaiting their sovereign's arrival. It is an 
 
150 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 apathetic crowd, which shows no excitement as 
 the advance guard with an outrider in green and 
 gold Hvery appears^ quickly followed by two 
 closed barouches, the first of which is surrounded 
 by a company of Lancers with flying pennons. 
 We just catch a passing glimpse of a dark man 
 with a beard, rather stout, and looking more than 
 his age of forty. The band plays the National 
 Anthem and the gates close on the procession. 
 
 And this is the 121st Sovereign of Japan, the 
 first commencing his reign in 660 B.C., as the 
 preamble to the Constitution runs : " Having by 
 virtue of the glories of our ancestor ascended 
 the throne of a, lineal succession unbroken for 
 ages eternal." In connection with the ancestor- 
 worship, which is the only form of worship per- 
 formed by the upper classes, the Emperor's oath 
 on his accession is interesting. " We, the successor 
 to the prosperous throne of our Predecessors, do 
 humbly and solemnly swear to the Imperial 
 Founder of our House, and to our other Imperial 
 Ancestors, that in pursuance of a great policy, 
 co-extensive with the Heaven and with the Earth, 
 we shall maintain, and secure from decline, the 
 ancient form of government. 
 
 " That wc have been so fortunate in our reign 
 in keeping with the tendency of the times as to 
 accomplish this work, we owe to the glorious 
 spirits of the Imperial Founder of our House and 
 
New Nippon. 1 5 1 
 
 our other Imperial Founders. We now reverently 
 make prayer to them and to our Illustrious 
 Father and implore help of their sacred spirits, 
 and make to them solemn oath, never at this 
 time, nor in the future, to fail to be an example 
 to our subjects in the observance of the Law." 
 
 At eleven o'clock, Mr. Nagasaki, Master of the 
 Ceremonies in the Imperial Household, calls for 
 us in a royal carriage to show us the country 
 Palace of Sheba, whose gardens lie by the sea- 
 shore. Side by side in the grounds, which are 
 approached by a very unpretentious drive and 
 entrance, stand the European Palace, furnished, 
 and the Japanese one of paper screens and matting 
 covered floor, though we are shown here into a 
 carpeted room, with heliotrope satin coverecl chairs 
 and sofa. It is the custom now in Japanese houses 
 of the upper ten, to have one European furnished 
 room, which is only used for the reception of 
 foreigners. As we take tea out of the little egg- 
 shell cups, we do not think the garden looks large, 
 but by the time we have followed the blue uni- 
 formed janitor, with the eternal chrysanthemum on 
 his cap, in his up and down wanderings, we feel 
 as if we had walked miles. 
 
 The Japanese ideal of landscape gardening is 
 to have a different view from every point, and 
 to this end they make a miniature park. These 
 knolls, mounted by wooden steps on one side 
 
152 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 and descended on the other, represent hills ; 
 the pond crossed by a stone bridge made out 
 of two stones, is a lake ; the island in its 
 midst is formed of 51 rock and one tree ; the 
 timber is represented by some dwarfed and dis- 
 torted fir trees, for the smaller and more spreading, 
 the more valuable they become. The Japanese 
 take great pains with these deformed trees, pruning 
 them back, and picking out the fir needles one 
 by one. They give large sums of money for an 
 old tree, and we were shown a tiny fir in. a pot 
 over eighty years old. And yet these Japanese 
 gardens, twisted and deformed as they are, with 
 no open green lawns or bright flower-beds, are 
 very quaint and attractive in their own way. 
 Then we drove on to the Euryo-kwan, another 
 Imperial Palace, where the Emperor and Empress 
 hold their annual cherry blossom party in April, 
 and when the arched avenue we are standing 
 under, is a mass of pink and white bloom. The 
 chrysanthemum garden party at the Palace is in 
 November, and very beautiful, from all accounts 
 it must be, the plants trained into every shape 
 and device, of ships, pagodas, and umbrellas. 
 
 Mr. Nagasaki told us a great deal of the bitter- 
 ness of the struggle of old Japan against the 
 sudden inroad of European custom, a struggle 
 that is apparent everywhere, but more especially 
 in the capital at Tokio. The next generation 
 
Nexv Nippon. 153 
 
 will be altogether European. The Court is 
 modelled on the etiquette of our English Court, 
 and the Emperor has the same court officials as 
 the Queen, whilst the Empress holds Drawing 
 Rooms, and has her ladies in waiting, everyone 
 wearing European and low evening dresses. 
 We found that all gentlemen wear European 
 clothes, whilst their wives yet cling to the far 
 more comfortable and graceful kimono. English 
 is taught in all the upper-class schools, and 
 spoken very generally in shops, where the names 
 are also written up in English, though there are 
 only 3000 Europeans altogether resident in Japan. 
 The Mikado has a son of twelve, and two little 
 girls, and the former is soon to have an English 
 tutor. 
 
 We drove to Ueno Park, to a luncheon given 
 in our honour by the Minister for Foreign Affairs, 
 Viscount Enomotto. This restaurant is the 
 " Berkeley " of Tokio, and it was a most elabor- 
 ate repast, though we could have wished that it 
 had been in a Japanese house. However, Vis- 
 count Enomotto^ Viscount Okab^, Mr. Nagasaki, 
 and M. Haryashi Tadasu, had brought their wives. 
 Viscountess Okab^ being a charming bride who 
 spoke English. These ladies wore kimonos in 
 pale blue, fawn and grey, and their costly em- 
 broidered obis were clasped round with a single 
 jewel. They had diamond rings and brooches^ 
 
154 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 and their g'lossy hair arranged in wonderfully 
 glossy coques with tortoiseshell combs ; and 
 such sweet gracious ladies as they were, shyly 
 putting out their hands, and bowing so low and 
 gracefully, and speaking in such soft, caressing 
 tones. Even here, though, European influences 
 were at work, for I saw a pair of high-heeled French 
 shoes, and even a pair of carpet slippers peeping 
 out from under the kimonos. 
 
 The room had such beautiful vases of flowers, 
 arranged as only Japanese can, not put together, 
 but as if growing in natural sprays. After much 
 drinking of healths and ceremonious compliments, 
 we adjourned to the neighbouring Technical 
 School of Art, where we saw specimens of lacquer 
 work, and some of the thirty-five processes through 
 which it passes before completion. The natural 
 taste for art in the nation comes out in the work 
 of these iqo students, who pay ten yen a year for 
 their instruction, for their wood carvings and draw- 
 ings from life are of extraordinary excellence, and 
 executed too with the roughest tools. 
 
 The same evening we visited the Maple Leaf 
 Club, to see a performance of " geisha " or dancing 
 girls. 
 
 This fashionable club was founded by the Nobles, 
 for the preservation of Japanese customs, and as a 
 protest against the general use of European ones. 
 Thirty dancing girls are maintained, educated and 
 
New Nippon. 155 
 
 kept in strict discipline from the age of fourteen, in 
 the premises of the club. We are ushered through 
 numerous dimly-lighted corridors, on our stock- 
 inged feet, into a large matted room, bare of furni- 
 ture, where we squat on cushions on the floor. A 
 Japanese dinner is served, course after course being 
 brought in lacquer bowls. A row of maidens, with 
 their almond eyes dancing with laughter, squat 
 before us and smile gleefully as we vainly struggle 
 with our chop-sticks, and try with frantic efforts 
 to swallow the recherche dinner, for as Murray 
 truly ■ says : " Europeans cannot eat Japanese 
 food." And this was the menu. Sweet cakes of 
 rice and sugar, served on plates with the mono- 
 gram of a maple leaf; soup, a brown liquid with 
 floating lumps of fish ; an omelette (of ancient 
 eggs) with fish sauce ; a hot trout with upturned 
 tail, with grated cheese coloured pink, a stewed 
 fig, and a finger-like radish that tasted like ginger ; 
 more fish with a nasty sauce and stewed seaweed. 
 As will be seen, fish formed a large item of the 
 dinner, for the Japanese eat all that comes out of 
 the sea. Sakd is served from the long-necked blue 
 and white bottles into tiny cups. Despair was 
 gaining upon us at the ceaseless arrival of more 
 lacquer bowls, when the work of the evening com- 
 menced. 
 
 Three demure damsels, in quiet kimonos, with 
 their samisens or guitars, enter, and begin to play 
 
156 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 and sing. From behind a screen, their faces hidden 
 by their fans, steal in three geishas, dressed in the 
 loveliest grey and pink kimonos, embroidered with 
 the crimson leaf of the maple. Slowly they girate, 
 their clinging garments trailing around their 
 turned-in toes. Deliberate and graceful are their 
 slow motions, and the three figures act as one piece, 
 and not only do their arms move in unison, but 
 their faces do so too, and they elevate the eyebrows 
 and close the eyes with the rise and fall of the 
 body. In pretty imagery they tell the pathetic 
 little story of the maple leaf: its birth and 
 growth, its mature glory, and its death, the dance 
 ending by the fans being thrown upon the floor, 
 even as it falls to the ground and dies. A second 
 performance is a clever mimicry, by the aid of 
 masks, of an old man, his wife and daughter ; and 
 the last dance, with the floating gauze streamers 
 that .wave rhythmically with the music, is most 
 elegant. These geishas are the favourite 
 form of amusement, and in all villages you pass 
 houses with mysterious gratings, enclosing a 
 floor, where nightly the gentle wail of the samisen 
 is heard and the graceful performance of the 
 geishas is seen. 
 
 October ist. — We have had a terrible experience 
 of a typhoon. It began with a thunder-storm 
 last night, accompanied by violent showers of 
 tropical rain, the drops being as large as small 
 
New Nippon. 1 5 7 
 
 marbles, whilst the thunder claps crackled and 
 boomed overhead, and the dazzling lightning 
 was blinding. The air was full of electricity, 
 and a feeling of restless foreboding took pos- 
 session of all. This morning the air was 
 so damp and plose that you felt scarcely able to 
 breathe. Violent gusts of wind, increasing in suc- 
 cession, alternate with strange pauses of breathless 
 stillness. There is no twitter of bird or hum of 
 beautiful dragon fly, for they are forewarned by 
 these signals of danger, and have crept into safety. 
 The force of the wind increases, and it is blowing 
 a hurricane, as in our ignorance of these dreadful 
 phenomena of typhoons (a word formed from the 
 Japanese meaning "great wind,") we leave the 
 Imperial Hotel at Tokio, on our return journey to 
 Yokohama, just as it reaches its height. 
 
 Trying to walk to the station, I was blown away 
 at the first corner, and then two men with a 
 jinrikisha began a hand-to-hand struggle with the 
 wind, making scarcely any progress, and across the 
 open spaces being literally blown backwards, and 
 only able to steady the jinrikisha from going bodily 
 over. How we reached the Shimbashi station I 
 never understood, but I know that we arrived 
 breathless, blinded, and soaked through with the 
 rain, with dishevelled hair and battered hats, 
 thankful only for the shelter of the station ; and 
 just as we seated ourselves in the carriage, a lady 
 
158 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 was brought in very much bruised and hurt by the 
 overturning of her jinrikisha, which had been blown 
 away over an embankment into the canal. You 
 may read descriptions of typhoons, but until you 
 have seen one, I defy anyone to have the smallest 
 idea of its awful power. 
 
 The fury of the wind was terrible. The train 
 stood quite still at times, unable to steam, however 
 slowly, against the wind, whilst the carriages 
 trembled and rocked on the narrow gauge with 
 every blast of wind, and we thought more than 
 once that it miist be blown over. The sea was 
 carried in long spindrifts or lashed into brown 
 whirlpools ; an awfully angry sea, boiling and 
 hungry, lashing up in mist and spray against the 
 breakwater we were on. And here are several 
 heartrending sights, for one sampan has been 
 washed up and completely broken on the break- 
 water, whilst others are being wrecked against its 
 sides, and we can see the horror-stricken faces of 
 the men clinging in agony to it ; whilst other 
 sampans are fast drifting on to it, and we watch 
 with awful fear their frantic efforts to save them- 
 selves. Houses are unroofed or blown down, trees 
 bent double or uprooted as we look, hedges col- 
 lapse, crops are laid low, and we in this little 
 carriage are out in its midst, with nothing to break 
 the full fury of the elements. But even as we 
 begin to wonder what to do on our arrival at 
 
New Nippon. 
 
 ■59 
 
 Yokohama, we see that the crisis is past and the 
 gale subsiding. At Yokohama the streets are 
 strewn with the debris of the typhoon, and all vessels 
 in the harbour still have their steam up, should 
 their anchors drag. In two hours the most extra- 
 
 A Typhoon. 
 
 ordinary change had taken place. The waters of 
 the harbour had become blue, and tranquilly lapped 
 the shore, the sun shone out, the wind died to a 
 breeze. It was a perfect summer's afternoon. 
 The wind when we left Tokio was blowing at 76'8 
 
i6o Newfotmdland to Cochin China. 
 
 miles an hour ; four hours afterwards it had fallen 
 to 40, and soon after died away. 
 
 We spend a happy afternoon in the curio shops, 
 at Messrs. Kiihn and Messrs. Welsh, whom we 
 consider have the best things, and then visit, with 
 Mr. Hall, a nursery garden on the Bluff, for we . 
 think of having one of those prim little Japanese 
 gardens at home. 
 
 The next morning we leave Yokohama, and 
 make an expedition to Kamakura, a pretty seaside 
 village, to see the great Diabutsu. The approach 
 to the Buddha is through a gateway which bears 
 the following beautiful inscription, — 
 
 Kotoku Monastery : " Stranger, whosoever 
 thou art, and whatsoever be thy creed, when thou 
 enterest this sanctuary, remember thou treadest 
 upon ground hallowed by the worship of ages. 
 
 " This is the Temple of Buddha, and the gate of 
 the Eternal, and should therefore be entered with 
 reverence. — By order of the Prior." 
 
 And with this grand exhortation in our ears we 
 pass into the quiet garden, with its avenue of 
 cherry and plum trees, lying under the hills in the 
 sunshine, a perfect stillness all around, and where 
 we see the half-opened eyes of the colossal Buddha 
 bent forward, as if in passive contemplation of this 
 quiet scene. There under the stars, amid storm 
 and wind, mist or tropical sun, he has sat for ages, 
 apathetic, but not unconscious. The hands lie on 
 
New Nippon. i6i 
 
 his crossed knees, the thumbs meeting at the 
 finger-tips, and forming two complete circles. 
 
 The Diabutsu is cast in bronze. Time and 
 weather, the stress of the elements, have mellowed 
 the bronze to the most beautiful grey blue, streaked 
 with pale green. To appreciate his solemn 
 grandeur, you must visit him again and again, and 
 each time he is more impressive than the last. It 
 is quite impossible to grasp the colossal propor- 
 tions, but these are the exact measurements: — 
 Height, 49ft. 7in., length of face, 8ft. sin., width 
 from ear to ear, 17ft. gin. The round boss on the 
 forehead, which appears like a tiny white spot, is 
 really ift. 3in. The length of eye and the elevated 
 eyebrows about 4ft., of the lobe-distended ears 6ft. 
 6in., and of the nose, with its wide-opened nostrils, 
 3ft. 9in. The eyes are of pure gold, and the boss 
 is of silver weighing 30lbs. Inside, in the hollow 
 of the image, there is a shrine, and from the gloom 
 of the neck of the Diabutsu stands out in relief a 
 small golden image. The chanting of the priest 
 below, whose rhythmic tones ascend muffled to us 
 inside the image, mingling with the incense of the 
 burning joss sticks, impresses us with a religious 
 melancholy, when we reflect on the ideal religion 
 set before them by this great teacher, and the utter 
 indifference, even to outward forms of worship, 
 manifested by this people. 
 
 The Diabutsu " gives such an impression of 
 
 M 
 
1 62 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 majesty, so truly symbolizes the central idea of 
 Buddhism — the intellectual calm which comes 
 of perfected knowledge, and the subjugation of 
 all passion." 
 
 Then we took jinrikishas to drive to the pretty 
 little Island of Enoshima — a wooded hill rising 
 out of the ocean and connected with the mainland 
 by a spit of sand. The road winds amongst the 
 sand dunes, along the beach of the seashore, where 
 the great waves of the Pacific, still agitated by 
 yesterday's typhoon, are dashing on to the sands. 
 Lovely pale green and cerulean tints streak the 
 sea, whilst naked brown figures plunge and dive 
 under the surf, bringing in great bunches of brown 
 sea-weed, which they cast in shining heaps on the 
 sand. We pass by a fishing village, strewn with 
 nets hung up to dry, and large bamboo crails for 
 catching the fish, which we see laid out to cure in 
 the sun. They are bringing in the harvest too, and 
 women, scantily clothed, and naked children, whose 
 fat brown bodies look so sleek and comfortable, are 
 busy seated on the ground threshing out the 
 grain, either by pounding it with a wooden mallet, 
 or with a rough bamboo flail. The dull thud of 
 these primitive threshing machines is in all the 
 air, and the ground outside each hut is spread 
 with mats, on which piles of the clean yellow 
 grain are placed to dry. 
 
 Charming Enoshima is in sight ; its green 
 
New Nippon. 163 
 
 woods, with the temple roofs peeping out^ standing 
 far out in the ocean, its coral reefs washed by the 
 ocean spray. An island for legend and romance, 
 fit home for an idyll of medieval ages. 
 
 We go across the sands amid piles of sea- 
 weed, picking up lovely trophies of the deep in 
 mother-of-pearl and pink shells, until we reach 
 the black wooden torii at the base of the island. 
 What a picturesque entry into the island it is, for 
 we walk through the quaintest and narrowest 
 village street, where the upper stories of the houses 
 nearly meet, and where below, there is that strange 
 medley of the every-day life of a people carried on 
 in full view of the public eye. Up we climb, pass 
 the shops full of shells, corals and marine curiosities, 
 until we reach many winding flights of mossy steps. 
 We make a veritable pilgrimage up these, until we 
 emerge on to the platform of one of the many tea- 
 houses. There is a glorious view over the sea at 
 our feet, divided by its causeway of golden sands, 
 over this side of the Isle of Nippon with its ranges 
 of purple mountains, jagged-edged, that run in 
 slanting directions across the island. A walk 
 round Enoshima gives a succession of equally 
 pretty views, but we cannot get into the cave on 
 the further side because the bridge was blown 
 down by yesterday's furious gale. Returning to 
 Kamakura, we had tiffin at the Sanatorium on 
 the sea-shore, amongst the pines, paid a last 
 M 2 
 
164 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 lingering visit to the Diabutsu, and took the train 
 to Kozu. 
 
 There was a tiresome wait at a junction for 
 the up -train, for as yet the railways in Japan have 
 but a single line, so that it was getting dusk as 
 we got into the tramway at Kozu. For ten miles 
 we ran along a country road and through long 
 straggling villages, whose lights shine out into 
 the darkness, or show us picturesque interiors. 
 Past Odawara, celebrated for the manufacture of a 
 wondrous medicine, supposed to be a remedy for all 
 the ills flesh is heir too ; under the ruined-walls of 
 the Castle, scene of many bloody conflicts, until 
 we reach Yumoto. It is now quite dark and 
 raining heavily. We take jinrikishas, with three 
 coolies to each one, to push us up the steep moun- 
 tain road to Miyanoshita. We present a pic- 
 turesque sight, akin to weirdness, as the trans- 
 parent lights of the coolies wave in the darkness, 
 and six willing men push and pant, shout and 
 encourage one another^ up the steep windings of 
 the mountain paths. Against the twilight of the 
 starry sky, I can just trace the outline of the moun- 
 tains we are winding round about and amongst, 
 and hear the frequent roar of falling cataracts some- 
 times far below, and at others dashing spray across 
 the road. We feel we miss much by the darkness. 
 
 After what seems a weary while^ we at last reach 
 theFugiya Hotel, the prettiest of wooden structures, 
 
New Nippon. 165 
 
 with a succession of outside glazed verandahs, and 
 the brilliant illumination of its electric lights go 
 forth to greet us in the darkness, as tired, cold, 
 hungry and wet, our panting coolies land us at 
 the steps. As a smart London coachman whips 
 up his horses, and draws up with a dash, so do 
 these coolies, regardless of even such a severe pull 
 as this, come up to their destination with a brisk 
 flourish. 
 
 Miyanoshita is a fascinating place. 
 
 \ye awoke this morning to find ourselves in the 
 mountains, to look down over the heavy thatched 
 houses of the village, and the road so far, and yet 
 immediately below us, where some young mothers 
 with their babies on their backs are waddling 
 along. What a quaint little place it is, perched 
 up in the middle of ranges of mountains, with 
 their green slopes as a never-changing back- 
 ground, a village scooped out of their sides. The 
 shops are full of the wood inlaid like mosaic, and 
 carved as only can a naturally gifted Japanese, 
 into every kind of article, from a napkin-ring to 
 an elaborate escritoire. 
 
 Any number of mountain climbsj more or less 
 difficult (so suited to all) can be made from 
 Miyanoshita. We have just returned from a 
 lovely expedition to Lake Hakone and the hot 
 district of Ojigoku. Leaving the hotel at midday 
 in bamboo chairs attached to poles and each 
 
1 66 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 carried by four coolies, we ascend the mountains. 
 The motion is smooth and easy, as they all keep 
 step together, to a melodious chorus of grunts, the 
 front coolies answering the hind ones. 
 
 These grass mountains that we are in the midst 
 of, are so beautiful. They have scarcely any trees, 
 but their gradual slopes are covered with the pale, 
 sickly green of rush or bamboo grass, that imparts 
 to them a peculiarly pleasing, even effect. Fre- 
 quently there is a column of smoke cnrling up 
 their sides, from some hot spring, for all this 
 district is intensely volcanic, and at the village of 
 Ashinoyu, where we rest and give tea to the men, 
 there are numerous hot springs and baths. It is 
 a desolate place, and is made more so by the 
 clouds coming down and completely damping us 
 and the view. It is rather dreary jogging along 
 with these human ponies in a dense mist, out of 
 which loom palely the foremost bearers, when, as 
 suddenly as we came into it, the fog lifted, leaving 
 us the most beautiful cloud effects of white filmy 
 vapours, trailing low down on the mountain side, 
 with a patch of blue sky just beginning to show, 
 and the sun shining up there behind those opaque 
 masses of cloud and mist, making them appear so 
 fleecy and transparent. It is now a lovely 
 summer's afternoon above and around us, and 
 immediately afterwards we have below, an en- 
 chanting view of Hakone and its deep blue lake, 
 
New Nippon. 167 
 
 so deep that, though it has been fathomed for five 
 milei, the bottom has yet to be found, We see 
 the green wooded peninsula, jutting so boldly out 
 into the lake, that from this distance we think it is 
 an island, and on this ideal spot, hidden far away 
 from the burdensome etiquette of public life, the 
 Mikado is building himself a palace, that is 
 approached by the beautiful cryptomeria avenue, 
 that also leads to Hakone. Whilst we are waiting 
 at the village below for our chairs and coolies to 
 be shipped on a boat, we " kodak " a charming 
 group of Japanese children ; one of our coolies 
 actively assisted in arranging them, and I noticed 
 took good care to include himself in the picture, 
 for this useful and companionable little instrument 
 has become familiar even to the Japanese, and 
 later on the men were so pleased when we did a 
 group of them in the prow of the boat, smoking 
 and eating their rice out of bamboo baskets, with 
 a division for a bonne bouche of some morsels 
 of fish. These coolies are delightfully merry 
 fellows, always willing, always cheerful, whether 
 tired or hungry, never shirking work, and ready to 
 help each other, laughing and seeing the fun of 
 any little passing incident. Most of them speak 
 a few words of English, the object of every coolie 
 in Japan being to learn it, as they earn so much 
 more money from foreigners. You constantly find, 
 that whilst waiting, they study a blue Japanese- 
 
1 68 N ewfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 English phrase book, exceptionally badly com- 
 piled. 
 
 We are rowing three miles across the lake in a 
 sampan, with an upturned prow, propelled by 
 some oarsmen, and which much resembles a 
 picture of an old Roman galley. Their wooden 
 oars, a long blade tied to a piece of wood, are 
 fixed to the gunwale, in rowlocks formed of a pin 
 of wood, and on this they roll over and back each 
 time, a clumsy but effectual movement. The 
 surrounding view is wondrously beautiful. The 
 green pointed mountains with their sharp edges 
 coming down directly into the lake on one side ; 
 the other covered with shrubs and some over- 
 hanging trees, under whose sweeping arms we 
 glide to the landing stage, in the lights and shadows 
 of a still glorious afternoon. It sounds but a tame 
 description, and yet in reality it is sublime, and, 
 for some reason hard to discover, it is absolutely 
 different, and because of that much more charm- 
 ing than any other lake I have ever seen. 
 
 We begin a long ascent, with a continued view, 
 looking backward, where translucent clouds float 
 down the mountain sides, which are mirrored 
 faithfully in the green waters, and as we plunge 
 into a dense wood of bamboos, we take our last 
 farewell look back at Lake Hakone. It is a 
 stony and steep path, cut in zig-zags through the 
 thick undergrowth where there is no room for the 
 
New Nippon. 169 
 
 long poles of the chair to turn, so we have to walk. 
 Suddenly we come aross a little square village, 
 built round a wooden bath house, where the whole 
 population of invalids are bathing together in the 
 warm mineral spring. 
 
 As we ascend, the scene grows wilder. Vegeta- 
 tion decreases, and masses of barren rock appear. 
 The earth is warm and steaming, nor must you 
 leave the path, as these treacherous brown curling 
 scales of earth are only a crumbling upper crust, 
 over the furnace below, and lives have more than 
 once been lost here. The air reeks of sulphurous 
 fumes, a strong overpowering stench. And this 
 curious volcanic scene continues, until we reach 
 the abomination of desolation. Here, standing 
 above, we look far away down into a vast 
 cauldron of steam, that rises up and envelops us 
 in suffocating fumes of sulphur, so strong that, 
 wheezing and coughing, we have to turn back- 
 wards to get fresh breath, so dense that we can 
 only dimly see the great masses of rock around 
 us. More often they are not rocks, but clumps of 
 crumbling lava, loosely welded together in 
 fantastic shapes^ and that take the most wonder- 
 fully bright colours from the surrounding mineral 
 substances, of orange, carmine, blue, madder and 
 brown. In one place there is a little stream, in 
 which the sulphur deposit is so thick that there is 
 a rich coating round of green, bright as malachite. 
 
1 70 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 The boiling water of many streams swells the 
 vapour that rises from this fitly-named Ojigoku, or 
 Big Hell. 
 
 We scramble and grope our way down, ever 
 deeper into this apparently bottomless pit, into 
 this boiling smoking abyss, where the evil-smelling 
 fumes wrap us round so effectually that we can 
 scarcely trace our path, and choking and blinded, 
 we wonder vaguely, if we shall ever emerge into 
 light and air once more. But after we have made 
 a long and devious descent, we branch off to the 
 left, and when we feel ourselves in comparative 
 safety, and in a clearer atmosphere, we turn round 
 to look back to see the wreathing masses of smoke 
 that eternally ascend from this hell. And there, 
 behind this blank desolation, rises at the head of 
 the valley the graceful acute peak of Kammuriga- 
 take, with the dense green forests covering it from 
 top to bottom, formed by a thick undergrowth of 
 small box and andromeda japonica. It reminds 
 us of the hot springs of New Zealand, of those 
 beautiful pink and white terraces, which, alas ! are 
 no more, where mingling as here with volcanic 
 rocks and steam, there is the additional charm of 
 a luxuriant wealth of semi-tropical vegetation. 
 
 We have a very long descent to make, over the 
 roughest path of loose rock and stones, and across 
 several streams, where the obliging coolie makes a 
 bridge of his back, and when we have nearly 
 
New Nippon. 1 7 1 
 
 reached the bottom and made the circuit of the 
 valley on the path cut out midway on the moun- 
 tain side, we pass round into another valley with 
 wide amphitheatre of mountains. It is through 
 the midst of these, at the end of a long vista 
 formed by their green slopes, that we see the 
 smooth waters of the Pacific, spread out like a 
 looking-glass in the closing afternoon light, and 
 beautiful as had been the views and scenery all 
 day, I think this glimpse of sea and mountains 
 exceeded all. A long winding descent to Miyano- 
 shita in the dusk, which we reach just as they were 
 sending out two messengers with lanterns, to light 
 us home. 
 
 Friday, October ^rd. — We went up Sengeuyama, 
 the wooded hill, 1000 feet above, and at the back 
 of the hotel, carried in a kagos or Chinese chair, a 
 most luxurious way of ascending a mountain. It 
 was a glorious morning, with not a cloud in the 
 sky ; one of those days when you feel that every- 
 thing is beautiful, and the views of the mountains 
 at every zig-zag changing and appearing more 
 and more splendid, as at each turn we rise more 
 on a level with them. And then those beautiful 
 thickets of bamboos, the trees of delicately-pointed 
 maple leaves^ the laurels and evergreens, the 
 azaleas and hibiscus, the creepers and tendrils, the 
 great clumps of red spiky wild lotus, of purple 
 everlastings, of blue lupus, and yellow snapdragon 
 
172 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 all growing in wild confusion, fresh with the 
 morning's dew. 
 
 There is a little tea-house hung with flags on 
 the platform at the top, and such a view over 
 Odiwara Bay, and of the panorama of mountains 
 with their smooth, pale-green slopes, and there, 
 between those two peaks, in the gap, we ought to 
 get a view of Fujiyama, only, as she so often does, 
 she is hiding herself to-day behind the clouds. 
 No sooner do we reach the bottom than we have 
 to leave Miyanoshita for Yumoto, with a parting 
 pang of regret that our stay is so short. The 
 Fujiya Hotel, though kept by a Japanese, is most 
 comfortable, with excellent mineral baths, which 
 never seem so pleasant as after a long day's 
 excursion, nor must I forget to mention the little 
 Japanese waiting damsels, who giggle and waddle 
 about in their tightly-drawn kimonos, struggling 
 with the details of the French m6nu. 
 
 We speed quickly down the magnificent moun- 
 tain road, which we came up before in the dark. 
 It is cut out from the cliff, and has those glorious 
 views, growing grander as we descend into the 
 valley of the mountain, views that make Miyano- 
 shita the most charming of mountain resorts. 
 Even when we get into the tramway at Yumoto, 
 and travel along the plain, there is such a pretty 
 picture of the sea-shore, where the sea looks as 
 green as a lagoon at Venice. We pass again 
 
New Nippon. 1 73 
 
 through the long-continued street of villages, 
 where the high thatched roofs are crowned at the 
 top with a cage of poles, on which tufts of 
 grass are growing, and through the blinds of 
 bamboo canes catch glimpses of the washing, the 
 eating, the hairdressing, and the cooking, the 
 every-day busy life of the little people inside. We 
 take the train from Kozu to Nagoya. 
 
 A most lovely journey it is, for the line runs 
 through and crosses a pass in the midst of the 
 mountains, which look radiantly beautiful with 
 their immense variety of foliage — dark evergreens, 
 mingling with the yellower autumn tints. They 
 are always the same, these mountains in Japan ; 
 conical in shape, with sharp-edged shoulders 
 perfectly formed in miniature, rising very straight 
 up from the level. There are numberless water- 
 falls, foaming torrents gushing down where the 
 valley parts a little. At Gotemba we have two 
 engines to the train, one behind to push, the other 
 in front to pull, for the pass here rises to 1500 feet. 
 Then we come out into an open valley where there 
 are thousands of little yellow paddy fields, with 
 many bamboo groves, whose light-green feathery 
 fingers wave above heavier groups of dead-green 
 cryptomerias ; where the villages, with their heavy 
 black roofs, nestle under the mountains, and tea- 
 houses with their flag poles are perched on many 
 a little eminence, and endless black torii lead to 
 
1 74 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 the temples, surrounded by groves of trees. I 
 had often heard of the exquisite scenery of Japan, 
 but this comes up to, and exceeds a:ll expecta- 
 tion. 
 
 We journey on. Suddenly in the sky we see 
 suspended a great purple cone. The base is cut 
 ofif by a sky of clouds. It is the beautiful summit 
 of Fugiyama. 
 
 Fugi dominates the island, and you have so 
 many views of it from every side, that it seemed 
 to me that we were constantly spending our time 
 in looking for the cone amongst the clouds. It is 
 very rare to have a perfectly unclouded view of 
 the mountain, but this we now nearly succeeded 
 in doing. Perhaps it is because it is so often 
 veiled in clouds that the Japanese have surrounded 
 it with such a sacred mystery. It seems such a 
 familiar friend now, this cone of Fuji, for we 
 have seen it depicted upon numberless scrolls 
 and screens, on tea services and china plaques, 
 on cloisonne and lacquer, since we came to 
 Japan. 
 
 This view of Fuji is superb. The mountains 
 break away and leave a vast plain, out of which 
 it sweeps up solitary, colossal. The crater at 
 the top looks like the jagged edges of a tooth, 
 down which streams of lava have streaked their 
 course. And as we follow the sweeping lines of 
 the great pyramid up 13,000 feet of height, the 
 
Nezv Nippon. 175 
 
 clouds that lay half-Way down, roll away. Only a 
 few fleecy ones float ethereally along the summit, 
 whilst the Sacred Mountain, deep purple pinkj 
 stands revealed in all the glory of a sunset evening, 
 against a pale primrose sky, deepening into lilac 
 overhead. Then we realize whence the Japanese 
 acquire their idea of colour. Their artists are only 
 reproducing the realities of nature as constantly 
 present to them in the halftones of their island 
 sky and sea, and it is from such sunsets as these 
 that they faithfully copy the translucent shades of 
 rose-pink, grey-blue, lilac and apple-green, that 
 form the background of those beautiful cloisonnd 
 plaques and china vases. The halo of romance 
 woven around this poetical mountain, the object 
 of reverence to thousands of pilgrims, who pain- 
 fully climb up the nine stages to enter the crater 
 at the top, is increased by this view of it, which 
 will, to me, at any moment recall the lovely 
 splendour of Fuji. 
 
 The plain is formed of the rich alluvial deposits 
 of lava from the many eruptions of Fuji, and is a 
 splendid agricultural district, where that neat 
 " carpet " cultivation is seen to perfection, and 
 where the harvest is now in full swing. Columns 
 of smoke, rising from the surrounding mountain 
 sides, show this district is volcanic, and shocks of 
 earthquake are frequent all over Japan, but par- 
 ticularly at Yokohama. 
 
176 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Soon the railway runs along the sea-shore, 
 where there is just room for it between the pebbly 
 beach and the deeply wooded mountains — a pretty 
 bit of travelling. We look across the pale green 
 bay to the little range of lilac hills opposite, and 
 listen to the idle lapping of the waves, and see the 
 sampans putting out to sea for the night's fishing, 
 as darkness, the quickly falling dusk of a tropical 
 climate, closes over all. 
 
 I must say that travelling in Japan presents an 
 uncomfortable feature in being obliged to carry 
 your provisions with you, as only Japanese eatables 
 can be obtained at the stations. Fortunately the 
 distances are not great, but when it happens, as on 
 this occasion, that two parties, one of Germans, 
 besides ourselves, all dined out of paper parcels, 
 the car presents a very unpleasant appearance. 
 
 We reached Nagoya at midnight. Two jinriki- 
 shas bore us swiftly through the deserted streets, 
 all dull and dark, because the paper lanterns of 
 the passers-by are gone home, and" there is no 
 attempt at street-lighting. We are sent flying 
 round a dark corner to be deposited before a 
 barred and shuttered door. There is a great noise 
 within, much v/hispering and unbolting of doors, 
 rather a mysterious arrival, and then a stream of 
 light pours forth, and shows the usual crowd of 
 little bowing men and women, who escort us in a 
 body up the polished stair to our rooms a la 
 
New Nippon. 1 7 7 
 
 Japonaise, where we sleep with the light shining 
 through the paper walls. 
 
 We are awakened the next morning by the shuffle 
 of stockinged feet over the polished boards, and 
 one of the waddling little waiting-maids, with the 
 most brilliant pink and white cheeks, flicking the 
 dust away with a wisp of papers tied on to a stick, 
 two of the same escorting C. to the bath, a 
 wooden tub of boiling water placed on an earthern 
 floor. 
 
 There is a delightful outlook from the glazed 
 screens, a European concession, which probably 
 will be general a few years hence, showing how 
 easily the Japanese assimilate all foreign improve- 
 ments, over the dark crinkled roofs across the wall 
 of the street, into a seed merchant's opposite, 
 where golden bunches of persimmons mingle with 
 the sample baskets of grain. A dozen pairs of in- 
 quisitive eyes from the open balconyopposite, watch 
 me brush my hair. Then we breakfast in a room, 
 or rather, I should say, in five rooms, for the 
 sliding screens are all thrown back, and, free and 
 open as a summer-house, there are vistas of rooms 
 on either side ; and these screens are decorated with 
 such artistic designs, a spray of bamboo with a 
 red-legged stork ; a branch of crimson maple 
 with hanging tendrils, or a purple iris and some 
 water-rushes. There is a bronze vase, too, filled 
 with fresh wild flowers on the table. Then come 
 
 N 
 
178 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 the curio vendors, and, spreading their handker- 
 chiefs on the floor, produce their treasures one by 
 one. 
 
 Nagoya is celebrated for its magnificent feudal 
 Castle. A police emissary, with silver-mounted 
 jinrikishas, comes to conduct us over it, and it is 
 as well, as there appears to be much red tape 
 formality in admission to these royal domains. 
 
 Across the courtyard — a typical one, where the 
 three yards to the gate is made by the winding 
 paving-stones to appear quite a long distance, we 
 sally forth into those kaleidoscopic streets, towards 
 the great white donjon-keep, with its golden 
 dolphins dominating the town. 
 
 The Castle has three moats ; the outer one, with 
 its green slopes and smgle row of fir trees, is given 
 up to barracks and parade grounds, for there are 
 upwards of 3000 troops at Nagoya, and being a 
 holiday, the streets are full of their white uniforms 
 and yellow-banded caps. The white walls of the 
 Castle are raised from the moat on parapets formed 
 of gigantic stones, and roofed with crenellated 
 bronze tiles, whilst at the corners rise pagoda- 
 shaped towers. These walls are the most wonderful 
 part of the Castle, for many of the stones are six 
 and nine feet long, and proportionately broad, and 
 can be traced out, as lengthways, slantways, across, 
 they are piled up on a broad base, shelving back- 
 wards, without cement or earth, supported by their 
 
New Nippon. 1 79 
 
 own weight. On many of the largest corner-stones 
 are engraved marks and designs, to show that 
 they were the contribution of the Daimyos, for 
 the Castle was erected in 1610, by twenty barons, 
 to serve as a residence for Yeyasu's son. Crossing 
 the moat, which is dry, and used for tame deer, 
 over a drawbridge, we enter the courtyard 
 through a massive gateway. 
 
 The decorations inside the palace are exquisite, 
 though the rooms are bare and uncared-for, and 
 many of the paintings are defaced. In the first 
 chamber, the fusumas, or sliding screens, are of 
 dull gold, and painted on them are the most life- 
 like lions, panthers, and leopards, the spots of the 
 latter being specially well delineated ; with glaring 
 eyes, fierce whiskers, and lashing tails, they crouch 
 in life-like attitudes, ready to spring j or in another 
 group are mothers with their young ones gambol- 
 ling around them. In another screen the bamboo 
 trees have the joints of their stems faithful to life, 
 and an adjoining one has a straggling fir-tree, 
 just like one of those on the moat wall outside, 
 with a blinking owl perched on the topmost 
 branch. There are others with weeping willows, 
 and red-leaved maples, and pink-and-white lotus ,: 
 one in particular we noticed that had painted on it 
 a tiger-lily, with yellow spots, a crimson peony, a 
 blue convolvulus, and a white daisy, forming a 
 peculiarly beautiful panel. Next to this is a spray, 
 
 N 2 
 
i8o Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 a mass of snow-white plum-blossom, against a dull 
 gold ground. 
 
 Nor are the animals less faithfully depicted, for 
 there are pheasants with eyes on their tails, 
 v/ild ducks flying across a pale-blue ground, with 
 their flapping, outstretched wings, and webbed 
 feet ; a stork with red legs on which the sinuous 
 rings are so life-like. In one room, which was 
 especially reserved for the use of the Shogun when 
 he came to visit his kinsman, the decorations are 
 especially gorgeous, and here there are ideal 
 Chinese scenes, which exactly resemble the 
 familiar willow-pattern plate. There is the five- 
 storied pagoda, the willow trees, and the high 
 curve of the bamboo bridge. The roofs of these 
 rooms are of black lacquer, inlaid with gold, 
 whilst the windows are made of that geometri- 
 cally carved lattice work, covered with opaque 
 paper. 
 
 But perhaps the most beautiful thing of all is 
 the open wood carving on the ramma, or venti- 
 lating screens, between the rooms, for here, that 
 great Japanese artist, Hidara Jingoro, has carved 
 the most exquisitely faithful representations of 
 a white crane, a tortoise, a hen with her little 
 ones, parrots, and birds of paradise. There is one 
 that excites everybody's admiration. It is a 
 cock perched on a drum, its beak wide open in the 
 act of crowing, so natural, that you expect to hear 
 
New Nippon. i8i 
 
 the " Cock-a-doodle-doo." The red, erect coxcomb, 
 and the brown and blue iridescence of the tail 
 are lifelike. And when we look round on this 
 mass of gorgeous paintings and carvings, we^ 
 marvel that their resplendent colours are un- 
 dimmed by the lapse of three hundred years, 
 that some are as bright to-day, as when they were 
 executed three decades ago. 
 
 We ascend the great^ gloomy, five-storied Keep, 
 which is built up inside on massive beams of wood, 
 whole tree trunks being used as supports. From 
 the gallery at the top we have a charniing view of 
 the brown roofs of Nagoya, lying around the castle, 
 of the military prison belowj where the prisoners 
 are exercising in the yard, of the heavy square roof 
 of the temple rising up majestically above the 
 squat houses — of the wide-reaching plain, and 
 the circling mountains. The precious golden 
 dolphins, covered over with wire netting, are above 
 us, glittering resplendent in the sun. They 
 measure eight feet in height, and are valued at 
 1 80,000 dols. One of them was sent to the 
 Vienna Exhibition of 1873, and great was the 
 despair of the citizens when, on its return voyage, 
 it was wrecked in the Messageries steamer, the 
 Nil. However, it was recovered from the deep, 
 with great difficulty, and proudly restored to its 
 original position. 
 
 Then we went for a drive, and I am not sure 
 
1 82 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 that the great centre street of Nagoya was not the 
 most fascinating and absorbing one that we saw in 
 Japan, and the whole town was charming in its 
 bright cleanliness and bustling streets. 
 
 It is with a peculiar feeling of sadness that I 
 write this description of Nagoya and recall its 
 pleasant reminiscence, because the terrible news 
 has just reached us in far off China, that an earth- 
 quake has destroyed this thriving town. It makes 
 one's heart ache with pity to think of those smil- 
 ing streets, that happy swarm of industrious 
 people suddenly left homeless, the survivors sur- 
 rounded by their dead or dying relatives, whilst 
 the muffled booming, the precursor of the earth- 
 quake shocks, tell them that they might be the 
 next victims. 
 
 In this dreadful earthquake 8000 people were 
 killed, I c,ooo injured, and 100,000 houses destroyed. 
 Nagoya experienced 6600 earth-spasms, or an 
 average of thirty shocks an hour. Fortunately 
 the ancient castle — monument of an extinct 
 dynasty — is unharmed, saved by its massive walls, 
 and the decreasing size of its pagoda storeys. 
 
 We left the hotel amid many " Sayonaras " 
 (farewells), reached the station by the drooping 
 avenue of willows, and, with five hours in the train, 
 arrived at Kioto, and settled ourselves into its 
 excellent new Hotel, with palatially proportioned 
 rooms. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE WESTERN CAPITAL AND INLAND SEA. 
 
 Kioto is the western metropolis of Japan, and was 
 the only capital from 793 until twenty years ago, 
 when the present Mikado re-established his supre- 
 macy over the Shoguns, and selected Tokio as 
 the metropolis of the Empire. 
 
 We began the next day by doing our duty by 
 the sights of Kioto, and commenced with His 
 Majesty's palace, of Gosho, for which a special per- 
 mission had been sent us. This is now the third 
 Imperial palace that we have visited. I think we 
 were foolish to come, because by this time we 
 might have known that there is really nothing 
 worthy of interest to see. 
 
 The palace is enclosed by high walls and covers 
 an area of twenty-six acres. At the gate of "the 
 August Kitchen,^' we went through an elaborate 
 ceremony of inscribing our names in the lacquer 
 and gold tasselled visiting book of the Mikado, 
 whilst two exceedingly unkempt ofiHcials, in 
 rusty black kimonos, superintended our move- 
 ments. Of course this palace, like the others, 
 
184 Newfottndland to Cochin China. 
 
 is bare of furniture, carpets or hangings. The 
 fusumas, or screens are decorated with splashes 
 of blue paint and green mountains, or with funny 
 little pictures of Japanese life, drawn with a total 
 neglect of perspective. A lot of old women in 
 wicker hats were raking, with bamboo claws. His 
 Imperial Majesty's courtyards. The garden is 
 scarcely so good as the one at the Hotel, with its 
 pond on which floated an unpainted wooden 
 gondola. The whole produces an impression of 
 discomfort. 
 
 We pass first into the Seiryoden, or " Pure and 
 Cool Hall," where the square of cement in the 
 corner was every morning strewn with earth, 
 so that the Mikado could worship his ancestors 
 on the earth without leaving the palace. Then 
 into the Audience hall, in the centre of which is 
 the Imperial throne, hung with white silken 
 curtains and a pattern meant to represent the bark 
 of a pine tree. The stools on either side of the 
 throne were for the Imperial insignia, the sword 
 and the jewel. On the eighteen steps stood the 
 eighteen grades into which the Mikado's ofificials 
 were divided. Then we see the Imperial study, 
 where His Majesty's tutors delivered lectures. 
 The suite of rooms called the "August Three 
 Rooms," where No performances, a kind of lyric 
 drama, were performed, and lastly a suite of eleven 
 rooms, where the Mikados, when Kioto was the 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 185 
 
 capital, lived and died. We see the Imperial 
 sitting-room with the bed-room behind, completely- 
 surrounded by other apartments, so that no one 
 should approach His Majesty without the know- 
 ledge of his attendants. This sounds perhaps 
 interesting enough, and having read Murray's 
 elaborate description we were eager to see Gosho, 
 but the reality is a succession of ordinary Japanese 
 rooms, dark and bare, without the redeeming 
 feature of well painted fusumas. 
 
 The obnoxious janitors, notwithstanding our 
 credentials, obstinately refused to show us the only 
 thing of interest, narriely the present Imperial 
 living rooms, on the plea that they are being now 
 prepared for the reception of the Heir Apparent 
 who arrives in a few days, and we see bales of 
 furniture covered with green and blue cloths, bear- 
 ing the royal insignia of the chrysanthemum, being 
 dragged across the inner courts. 
 
 The Nijo Palace is surrounded by a moat and 
 pagoda-guarded wall of Cyclopean masonry. It is 
 undergoing repair, and we can therefore only see 
 the handsome outer gateway formed of lacquer 
 and beaten gold, and the beautifully worked gilt 
 fastenings to the gates, but inside the descriptions 
 read like a dream of beauty, which we should be 
 most anxious to see, were it not for the experience 
 we have just gone through at the other palace of 
 Gosho. 
 
1 86 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Kioto has its Diabutsu, its big bronze bell, its 
 pagodas, palaces, gardens and monasteries, but 
 above all it has its temples— temples large and 
 small, decorated and plain, dull and uninteresting. 
 You might easily spend a week at Kioto seeing 
 nothing save these, but of temples I confess we 
 are by this time thoroughly sick and tired. The 
 sight of a torii makes us turn wearily away, and 
 from a sammon (or gateway) we hastily flee. 
 Everyone who visits Japan ends by experiencing 
 this satiety of temples, a feeling induced by their 
 monotonous identity and entire want of originality. 
 Still we feel that we must visit some of the sights, 
 so somewhat half-heartedly we go forth towards 
 the Show Temple of Nishi Hongwanji, the head- 
 quarters of the western branch of the Hongwanji 
 Buddhist sect, a dark massive structure. In the 
 courtyard is the large tree which, "by discharg- 
 ing showers of water," protects the temple from fire 
 in the vicinity. We wander through the state 
 rooms, the minor shrines, and the big temple ; 
 and in truth the decorations are marvellously 
 beautiful, but I will not weary you with the detailed 
 descriptions of lacquer-ribbed ceilings, golden 
 pillars, of kakemonos (hanging scrolls) over 200 
 years old, of cornices wrought in coloured ara- 
 besques, and shrines painted and carved in floral 
 designs. Again there are those most exquisitely 
 painted scenes on the sliding screens, of peacocks 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 187 
 
 and peahens seated on a peach tree with white 
 blossoms ; of wild geese on a dead-gold ground, of 
 scroll patterns carved in the design of the peony 
 or chrysanthemum leaf and flower, nor of the angels 
 in full relief that gaze down upon us from the ceil- 
 ing. But I must make especial mention of the 
 gilt trellised folding-doors, opening back to disclose 
 a wintry scene of life-sized bamboo and plum trees, 
 and of pine with dark-spreading branches covered 
 with snow. 
 
 We wander through the peaceful stillness of 
 the monastery garden, where the jostle and noise 
 of the thick crowding streets around comes over 
 the wall in a dull hum, feed the gold fishes in a 
 pond from the cool cloister, and climb up to a little 
 tower — or pavilion of the flying clouds — where, 
 on kneeling on the ground, we can trace a few 
 pencil lines on a gold ground, supposed to be the 
 work of the great artist, Kana Molonobii. 
 
 Then, passing the Hijashi Hongwangi, which, 
 when finished, will be the largest Buddhist temple 
 of Japan, we go on through a narrow street, under 
 an archway, and pass into an enclosure, where 
 booths of gay trifles line the road running to the 
 Sanjiisangendo, or the temple of 33,333 images 
 of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy, where a 
 thousand gilt images of five feet rise in tiers above 
 each other, the number being completed by the 
 smaller effigies engraved on the face and hands of 
 
i88 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 the larger ones. Near by the great Buddha, twin 
 to the Katnakura one, is dwarfed into a building 
 where his head touches the ceiling, and you can 
 only gaze up from underneath at his colossal 
 sleepy features. To the right, hung under a 
 belfry, is one of the two largest bronze bells in the 
 Island, and immediately under it is a little open 
 temple, where five Buddhist priests, squatted in a 
 semicircle, monotone the evensong. We return 
 home with that comfortable feeling that comes of 
 duty performed, and proceed to enjoy ourselves by 
 a drive in the dusk through the fairy lighted streets. 
 Kioto is a fascinating place, but, as I have said, 
 it is not the sights that make it so. The attraction 
 partly lies, as it always does in Japan, in those 
 wonderful little brown streets, with their wide 
 eaved and diminutive two-storied dolls' houses, 
 hung with original sign posts of fans, monster 
 paper lanterns and gay flags, that stand out in 
 sharp relief down a long vista, from the purple 
 mountains. Kioto is on the plain surrounded by 
 a circle of mountains, and at the end of all the 
 streets, face which way you will, there is always 
 this effective background to the toy town. If 
 you mount a little way up them, you can look 
 back and have a panoramic view over thousands 
 of brown-roofed huts, presenting a perfectly level 
 surface, except when a temple roof, square and 
 dark, overshadows the others. 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 189 
 
 We had thought Tokio the most fascinating 
 imaginable place, but, except for its grass-grown 
 moats, reflecting waters, and cawing rooks, Kioto 
 is even more enticing. The streets are narrower 
 
 My carriage at Kioto. 
 
 and more untouched by that dreaded; European 
 taint, showing itself at Tokib in small drapers' 
 shops, and cheap lamp and umbrella stores. Life 
 is more primitive, the people are more unsbphisr 
 ticated, as we know by the little crowd, polite. and 
 
1 go Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 interested, that attends us in our shoppings, and that 
 makes the dusk in the shops darker, by the black- 
 ness of their gathering round. The gay china 
 shops, the chemists, blacksmiths, booksellers, the 
 fish and fruit stores cease not to interest us ; the 
 walking picture, coming to meet us of a Japanese 
 lady with shapely, tightly-girt figure, with the baby 
 on her inclined back, sheltered under a paper 
 umbrella, charms us as much as ever. The wee 
 children in their blue and white kimonos or 
 wadded jackets, their heads shaved, with a bald 
 circle on the crown, just like the Japanese doll 
 of a toy shop ; the little ten-year-old nurses 
 with their brown babies asleep, and heads 
 waddling from side to side as they shuffle along ; 
 the ladies, in handsome dress, taking an afternoon 
 airing with their husbands in a double jinrikisha ; 
 the sellers crying their goods and attracting 
 attention by the help of a bell, gong; drum, or 
 whistle : all these things, though we seem to have 
 been in their midst for so long, almost at times to 
 have lived all our lives with them, are a never- 
 ending source of interest. But a new charm has 
 been added to these, one that exceeds them all, 
 one that is all-absorbing. We throw temples, 
 palaces, gardens, sightseeing to the winds, and 
 resolve to devote the few remaining hours of our 
 stay in Japan, to shopping and the curio shops. 
 We driye through many winding streets and 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 1 9 1 
 
 draw up in one not different to the others, and, 
 lifting up the black draperies, enter. There may, 
 perhaps, be a few bronze or lacquer articles spread 
 about, but nothing to indicate the priceless art- 
 treasures that we are presently going to see. With 
 hands on knees, sliding down with bows of 
 reverence^ and the gasping produced by sucking 
 in of breath between the teeth, stands the pro- 
 prietor, surrounded by a background of assistants. 
 With deferential encouragement he leads you to 
 the backmost recesses of the shop, through wind- 
 ing passages, across paved squares, until you come 
 to the prettiest little picture of a garden made out 
 of a courtyard of a kw square feet, and here in 
 rooms opening out of this, surrounded by fire- 
 proof godowns, far away from the eyes of an in- 
 quisitive crowd of passers-by, he shows forth his 
 precious treasures. This courtyard is so artfully 
 arranged as to deserve description. There will be, 
 perhaps, a clump of bamboos in one corner, a stone 
 lantern on one side, a piece of water with gold fish 
 in it in the centre, and an azalea on bamboo 
 supports trained round it ; a bronze urn with 
 drinking water and a wooden scoop by it, and a 
 green metal stork. First of all tea is brought, and 
 the smoking boxes, which contain the hot ashes 
 in a bronze or china urn, and the bamboo trough 
 for the used ashes ; then the real work com- 
 mences. An art museum, the labour of hundreds 
 
1 92 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 of years ago, when a man devoted his lifetime to 
 the production of one or two works of art, are laid 
 on the matting before you. 
 
 From behind cabinets, from underneath tables, 
 boxes are silently produced, and from out of folds 
 of soft crepe or flannel, and many paper wrappers 
 come lovely objects, lovingly, caressingly fingered 
 and stroked by their owner. There are vases of 
 rock crystal, jade, plaques, and trays of the most 
 exquisite cloisonne, when a magnifying glass is 
 gently pushed into your hands that you may 
 enter into the minutest details of the minute work. 
 Bronzes, and satsuma china, inro or lacquer 
 rtiedicine boxes, with their succession of trays for 
 powders, and those lovely Netsuke or carved ivories 
 where each wrinkle and hair, each line and feature 
 are so faithfully graven in the quaint heads and 
 groups. The prices asked are fabulous, but I 
 often scarcely thought that the dealer wanted to 
 part with his curios, he seemed so proudly fond of 
 them. 
 
 I confess that our taste inclined often to the 
 baser kind of shops, where the goods were of 
 doubtful origin, but Japan has, in the last few 
 years, been so overrun with curio buyers and 
 Americans, that the few really antique things left 
 are scarce, and hard to find. The Japanese, like 
 the Chinese, always reserve their best things to 
 the last, and then somewhat reluctantly produce 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 193 
 
 them. We haunted the old shops where great 
 golden Buddhas sat enthroned amidst a most 
 miscellaneous collection — men in armour, memo- 
 rial cabinets, huge bronze vases, inlaid swords 
 with quaint tsuba, or sword guards, mingling 
 with lovely china vases, which, if modern, are 
 nevertheless a joy for ever to possess — to 
 feast your eyes on their delicate shiny surfaces 
 of ruby sang-de-bceuf, imperial yellow, lilac, blue, 
 apple-green, or rose pink, strewn with a spray 
 of snowy blossom or a spiky shaft of bamboo, 
 where little birds fly across the pale sea of colour^ 
 or solemn storks perch beside some waving reeds. 
 
 Again and again we are made to wonder how 
 these small shops, so meagre and unpretentious 
 outside, find the capital and become possessed of 
 such wondrous treasures. Hours you can spend 
 there, and hours they will be pleased to show you 
 these, for in Japan no one is ever in a hurry. Life 
 is very leisurely. 
 
 The " curio fever " is upon us. To anyone who 
 has visited Japan the description of a Canadian 
 authoress is but " too intensely true." 
 
 " You don't ' shop ' in this country. Shopping 
 implies premeditation, and premeditation is in vain 
 in Japan. If you know what you want, your know- 
 ledge is set aside in a moment, in the twinkling of 
 an eye, and your purchases gratify anticipations 
 that you never had, to be paradoxical. And you 
 
 O 
 
J 94 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 never fully know the joy of buying until you buy 
 in Japan. Life condenses itself into one long 
 desire, keener and more intense than any want you 
 ever had before — the desire of paying and possess- 
 ing. The loftiest aims are swallowed up in this ; 
 the sternest scientist, or political economist, or 
 social theorist that was ever set ashore at Yoko- 
 hama straightway loses life's chief end among the 
 curios, and it is at least six weeks before he finds 
 it again. And as to the ordinary individual, with- 
 out the guidance of superior aims, time is no more 
 for him, nor things temporal ; he is lost in contem- 
 plation of the ancient and the beautiful in the art 
 of Nippon, and though he sell his boots and pawn 
 his grandfather's watch, he will carry it off with him 
 to the extent of his uttermost farthing. . . ." 
 
 And so we felt. 
 
 But of course it is the crepe and silk shops that 
 woman-like fascinate me most. Those lovely, 
 soft, crisp, textiles, in rose-pink, coral, lilac, blue, 
 and silver-grey, in sea-green, mignonette, and 
 chrysanthemum-yellow, shades that you can find 
 in no other country, because the secret of these 
 heavenly dyes is known only to the Japanese. Oh ! 
 they are things to make your coveteousness strong, 
 your heart ache, unless your purse is full and deep. 
 Then there are the common washing crdpes, with 
 their graceful running designs so artistically 
 disposed, their harmony of colouring, and of which 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 195 
 
 I order kimonos for dressing-gowns for all the 
 children of the family. There is a lovely crepe 
 with rainbow stripes, not as you who have seen 
 the brilliant orange-green and purple rays of the 
 original would imagine, for it is a white filmy tex- 
 ture, with only a suspicion of pale melting zephyr 
 stripes, slanting across it. 
 
 Then there are the silks and crapes embroidered 
 with blood-red autumn sprays, with butterflies, 
 pink dolphins and sea-shells, or panels of satin of 
 such exquisite workmanship, with ever recurring 
 views of Fugi, and hanging kakemonos and 
 screens and coverlets, all so beautiful, and of such 
 faithful artistic merit. We are shown specimens 
 of a newly-revived industry, handed down from 
 ancient dyers, where pictures rich and soft are 
 raised in velvet, against a pale silk or satin ground. 
 By an ingenious process of wires, running parallel 
 with the hard thread of the woof, bearing the out- 
 line of the picture in velvet, which are, after the 
 dyeing and steaming cut out, these quaint pictures, 
 which at first you think painted, are produced. 
 Everything you see in Japan is art. It is brought 
 into the manufacture of the commonest things of 
 daily life, and seen to perfection in these cut vel- 
 vets and rich embroideries. It is in the air they 
 breathe. For even as we pass out from this rich 
 inner sanctum, into the open street shop, where 
 the crowd of customers, each seated on cushions on 
 o 3 
 
196 Newfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 the counter step, with a salesman squatted before 
 him, swiftly running the counters of his abaca up 
 and down, multiplying and dividing like light- 
 ning by this ingenious machine, we see piles of 
 coloured goods, of quite common quality only one 
 degree less delightful in colour and design, than 
 those we have chosen from. I must not forget to 
 mention in our shoppings the photographs, which 
 are extraordinarily good and very cheap. It might 
 also be of use to someone to know that we found at 
 Kioto, Daimaruicha and Co., and Takashimaya 
 Ilda and Co., the best shops for crepes, silk, 
 embroideries, and kimonos, made to order, and 
 Nishimura for the cut velvets, these shops having 
 but one price, and with the goods marked in plain 
 figures. 
 
 We get up early the next morning, for now that 
 we are so soon leaving Japan, we feel that every 
 hour is wasted that we are not out and aboutj 
 drinking in last scenes from these bewitching 
 streets. We direct our jinrikishas into a distant 
 quarter of far-reaching Kioto, into the meanest 
 and dirtiest of streets, whei-e most of the shops are 
 full of old iron, and hung round with second-hand 
 goods like a pawnbroker's, but where we are. told 
 that the real old-fashioned curio-shops, not got up 
 collections of curio for the circumnavigator, still 
 exist. I must say that they seemed full of im- 
 possible rubbish. 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 197 
 
 In the afternoon, somewhat satiated with buying, 
 we drove out to Shugaku — one of the Mikado's 
 summer villas. It was an intensely hot afternoon, 
 but the first disagreeably warm day that we have 
 had, as our weather has been perfect, with no 
 rain and sunny skies day after day. October 
 and November are always delicious months in 
 Japan. 
 
 The villa consisted of an absolutely bare, un- 
 decorated, matted, tea-house, of modest, you 
 might in the case of this, its royal owner, say 
 mean dimensions, but the garden is a gem. 
 From it there is a near view of purple hills, all in 
 little crinkled edges, running in lines one below the 
 other, made nearer to us by the warm still atmo- 
 sphere, whilst behind the garden rises a formal hill ; 
 truly Japanese in its conical structure, covered with 
 pine trees, whose pink and purple stems gleam out 
 from the dark fir needles. There is the usual 
 figurative mile upon mile of winding paths, the 
 steep hills to descend and climb up by stone steps, 
 the familiar bridges, one with pagoda-covered 
 roof, and the other of bamboo and turfed, crossing 
 the neatly devised harbours and bays of the arti- 
 ficial lake, whose banks are covered with palms, 
 but it is the hedges that are worth coming to see. 
 They are of azalea and camellia, and honeysuckle, 
 cut low, so that they spread out to an enormous 
 thickness, to a breadth of twenty feet, and it is over 
 
igS Newfoundlatid to Cochin China. 
 
 these green open ramparts, that you look out on 
 the lovely view. 
 
 We refused in coming home, though we had time 
 to spare, to visit any more temples, and we spent 
 the last evening in going to a fair, given in honour 
 of the God of Water. As at Tokio, where we saw 
 a similar festival for the God of Writing, it was held 
 in a special quarter. The dark, narrow streets are 
 outlined in coloured lamps, with arches, the light 
 glowing through the paper, and the varieties of 
 colour — red, green, blue, and pink, forming a soft 
 and effective illumination, not surpassed by many 
 more elaborate Jubilee ones. Many of the houses 
 are decorated with wonderful marine representa- 
 tions of blue waves, with fishes and dolphins, and 
 fir trees placed at intervals, with more lanterns and 
 red paper devices. The locality is en fite, and the 
 entire population is thronging the streets, which we 
 wander delightedly through. There are perform- 
 ances of monkeys and dogs proceeding, and a 
 crowd outside trying to look over the partitions ; 
 geishas, with the accompanying twang of the 
 Samisens, are going through their slow perform- 
 ances behind the open bars. Children are flatten- 
 ing their noses against the glass cases of the con- 
 fectioners', with their sweetmeats and temptingly 
 sugared cakes, or group round the vendors of paper 
 toys stuck on pieces of wood, whilst the women 
 gaze as longingly at the cheap combs, tawdry hair- 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 199 
 
 pins, and gaudy flowers, laid out under the hawkers' 
 glaring oil lamps. There are booths for the sale 
 of cheap soap, cutlery, sandals, glass, jewellery, 
 and candles. The tea-houses are doing an enor- 
 mous trade, and the naturally contented people 
 look supremely happy. 
 
 We left Kioto to pay a flying visit to Osaka on 
 our way to Kobe. Each town seems prettier than 
 the last, and Osaka is no exception. Our chief 
 object in going there was to visit the Arsenal, and 
 according to the special instructions of the Minister 
 of War, we were most courteously received by the 
 chief, Colonel Ota, and given tea at his official 
 residence before being conducted over the arsenal. 
 We are much struck that instead of having 
 to teach Japan, there is something that we can 
 learn from her. Her civilization, coming, as it 
 has, so late in the decade, breaking in suddenly 
 upon centuries of dark ages, she has benefited by 
 the experience of other nations, and constructed 
 her civilization on the best systems of other 
 countries. Here in this arsenal we see the newest 
 improvements of science in machines of every 
 nation. Some are from England, some from 
 Italy, France, or Germany. The Arsenal ia in 
 beautiful order and keeps employed a large 
 number of workmen. They manufacture their 
 own cannon, and we passed through the large 
 workshops, the smelting furnaces, and saw mould- 
 
200 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 ings and castings, the making and filling of 
 cartridges. The arsenal is inside the outer moat 
 or glacis of the castle, and, with canals and rivers, 
 has through water communication to the sea and 
 to the forts on the coast. 
 
 It is this rapid civilization, of which the 
 arsenal is only an example, that fills the traveller 
 with admiration. Japan was only opened to 
 foreigners in 1868, and with the fall of the last 
 Shogun and the beginning of the present Mikado's 
 reign, European customs rapidly spread. Some 
 say that Japan has gone too fast, and has absorbed 
 and not digested sufficiently the forms of civilized 
 life. The Japanese went to Prussia for a constitu- 
 tion, and call their Parliament the Diet ; to 
 England for their railway system, which was built, 
 organized, and worked at first by English en- 
 gineers and firemen. The)' went to France and 
 Germany for an army organization, borrowing 
 their blue and scarlet infantry uniforms with 
 white leggings from the French, and their artillery 
 uniform of blue and yellow from Germany. To 
 France again for their culinary art ; for which these 
 Japanese have a latent talent, making excellent 
 cooks. To England again for her model of Court 
 etiquette and nobles' titles, and then again to 
 Germany for medicine. The great reaction that 
 followed naturally in the course of this rapid 
 innovation is not yet dead. The struggle is still 
 
The JVestern Capital and Inland Sea. 201 
 
 going on, as one can easily see, but a few years 
 hence the revolution will be complete, and Japan 
 will cease to be so intensely fascinating to 
 foreigners. It. presents, perhaps, the most wonder- 
 ful page in the history of the world : this deposi- 
 tion of the Shogun, the reinstatement of the old 
 dynasty, a great revolution in a remarkable in- 
 telligent country, perfectly bloodless, of short 
 duration, and changing the whole face and destinies 
 of the land. 
 
 But these Japanese civilize so fast, that now 
 there is scarcely a European employed in their 
 State departments. They are very proud of this, 
 and gradually European agents for their steam- 
 ships, companies, the managers of banks and 
 commercial houses are being dismissed, or super- 
 seded by Japanese, who take the management 
 into their own hands. 
 
 But to return to Osaka. If the castle at 
 Nagoya is so well worth seeing, this one of Osaka 
 is equally so, for it is the exact counterpart of the 
 other, only minus the keep and the dolphins. 
 There are the same outer and inner moats, the 
 same white plaster walls edged with crenellated 
 bronze tiles, resting on stone walls, guarded at the 
 four corners with those square towers, loopholed 
 in several storeys ; but I think that the perfectly 
 gigantic stones of the walls are even more colossal 
 than at Nagoya, for there are several opposite the 
 
202 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 entrance by the gateway and the guard-room, that 
 measure at least twelve feet square. It will always 
 remain one of the wonders of Japan, how these 
 stones, with the primitive appliances of the earlier 
 Shoguns, were ever placed in position. The open 
 square of the inner moat is now a garden, and the 
 palace has been used to accommodate the General 
 and his staff. It is worth climbing up to the top of 
 the walls for the splendid view over the plain^ always 
 bordered by those chains of mountains, that run as 
 a prickly backbone from north to south of Japan. 
 
 Osaka is a charming town. It is called the 
 Venice of Japan, and with its flowing rivers and 
 canals intersecting the streets, its high, arched 
 bridges thrown across on a single sweep, its grassy 
 banks and avenues of weeping willows, it is fitly 
 likened to that Queen City of the sea. The 
 houses are built on piles projecting over the water, 
 and narrow passages in between, lead down to the 
 stone steps, where there are multitudes of boats. 
 
 To stand on one of the bridges and watch the 
 ceaseless ebb and flow of the changing stream of 
 life, is a dream of delight, only to be compared to 
 standing on the Bridge of Galata at Constan- 
 tinople. Blue-coated coolies, with their bare brown 
 legs, roped to heavy carts, with their encouraging 
 grunts ; itinerant sellers slung with bamboo trays 
 of vegetables; jinrikishas by the hundred, pedes- 
 trians jostled from side to side, closed sedan chairs. 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 203 
 
 from behind the curtains of which peer out priests, 
 whose way is cleared by running attendants, for it 
 is a day of ceremony, with much coming and 
 going from the temples — all this kaleidoscopic 
 stream, accompanied by the warning cries, and the 
 dull thud of the echoing wood pavement, is what 
 we see. And then look up and down the river, 
 with a vista of bridges, and see the irregular mass 
 of brown houses, winding round the bend of the 
 stream, with poles on the roof, hung with waving 
 blue cottons, placed there to dry, and the over- 
 hanging balconies, from which men are fishing. 
 And then the scenes of river life — the brown shiny 
 figures bathing and plunging in a cool bath, the 
 hundreds of sampans moored by the banks, where 
 reside a large aquatic population, and the high- 
 peaked prows of others, which, propelled along by 
 six oarsmen, again remind one of the gondolas of 
 Venice. There are other sampans, which, with 
 one square brown sail set, come skimming down 
 the canals before the afternoon breeze. Yes, 
 Osaka is a charming place, and these river scenes 
 passed in crossing' the bridges, add to the never- 
 ending joys of the dark, narrow streets, compressed 
 on to the restricted peninsulas of land. 
 
 Having done our duty by the arsenal, and to 
 our good constituents at Sheffield, we sit out and 
 have tea on the balcony of the hotel, and then go 
 for a prowl in the dusk round the streets. 
 
204 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Then succeeded one of those lovely evenings. 
 I shall never forget those sunsets and twilight 
 evenings, with their pale, washed skies, that we 
 had in Japan. They only last for a short half 
 hour, but they are entrancing. If you watch care- 
 fully, you may see the shadows lengthening, but 
 after the brightest and hottest afternoon, suddenly 
 the colour of the sun seems to go out of every- 
 thing, and in its place steal up soft shadows, the 
 vista of streets grow dim, and darkness falls into 
 the little open shop fronts, whilst the sky is 
 suffused with the palest wash of lilac or saffron. 
 The jinrikisha bulbous lights come out, one by 
 one, like glowworms, and the single lamp lights a 
 dark interior. And then as we pass across some 
 street, which lies to the west, we see a blaze 
 of orange, lying low on the horizon, where the sun 
 has just dipped. It becomes cold and chilly for 
 an hour, and then begin the fairy scenes of night, 
 in a Japanese town. 
 
 It is an hour in the train from Osaka to Kobe, 
 where we arrived at eight o'clock. 
 
 Kobe is a pretty seaport, girt round, close 
 at hand, by great mountains, up into which 
 the streets run. It is too cosmopolitan and 
 European to be very interesting. But from the 
 handsome Oriental houses, with their pale buff 
 and grey tints, the deep balconies with green 
 blinds of the foreign consulates on the Bund — 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 205 
 
 from the curio shops, Europeanized like Yoko- 
 hama, you can pass into the quaintest and 
 brightest native bazaar, where from feeling your- 
 self in Europe (especially if you are staying at the 
 French Oriental Hotel), you can suddenly plunge 
 back again into native Japan. We find the 
 steamer of the Nippon Company in quarantine, 
 by reason of a cholera death on board and coming 
 from Shanghai, an infected port ; so we have to 
 wait for two days. 
 
 On one afternoon we went up to the waterfall 
 in one of the green mountains, crowned with 
 straggling pine trees, to see sunset over the har- 
 bour. After having hovered round and inspected 
 half the gold Buddhas for sale in Japan, now that 
 we have reached the last place of departure, we have 
 at length bought one. Of course, directly we had 
 done so, we immediately saw a much better one in 
 an adjacent shop. I cannot help feeling that it is 
 a matter for thankfulness that we are leaving this 
 seductive country, not ruined, it is true, but greatly 
 impoverished ! 
 
 I was glad that to the end the enchantment 
 continued, and we shall carry away the memory of 
 that last evening in Japan on board the Japanese 
 Mail Company's steamer, the Saikio Maru. This 
 line is excellent and the ships the perfection of 
 comfort. 
 
 We saw the sunset from the deck, behind the 
 
2o6 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 peaked mountains of Kobe, with their dragon- 
 armed fir trees outlined atop, and against the 
 hundred masts of a fleet of sampans, the pale 
 grey-green sky so deliciously soft and milky. 
 There was a little white Japanese man-of-war 
 mysteriously covered over, and ships of all nations 
 coming from all parts of the world, in port ; and 
 from over the dark waters of the harbour, comes 
 the low crooning chant from the sampans, towing 
 in a huge junk. 
 
 As the darkness gathered the lights from Kobe, 
 came out against the sable background of lofty 
 mountains clustering thickly along the Bund, and 
 reflecting shining dots in the water, whilst ares of 
 light march up the ascending roads. Black mon- 
 sters, marked by red and green eyes, are darting 
 about the harbour, whilst puffing steam launches, 
 black lighters,and oar-propelled sampans are dimly 
 seen. Over this bewitching scene rises a crescent 
 moon, with a trailing path of silver on the waters, 
 and in our last view of Japan, as is only right, 
 there are the jinrikisha lights on shore, drawn by 
 their patient human horses, their soft quivering 
 lights running swiftly, hither and thither, up and 
 down, 
 
 We have been for the last twenty hours on the 
 Inland Sea of Japan. I have spent the whole day 
 on the bridge or in the bows of the Saikio Maru, 
 and the sea in its incomparable beauty surpasses 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 207 
 
 all ideas formed by written pictures. It is a suc- 
 cession of the most perfect inland lakes, varying in 
 breadth from forty miles to a few yards, and with 
 mountains rising around the shores. These moun- 
 tains have a peculiar look that I have seen nowhere 
 else so marked. They have great zig-zags of sands 
 running up and down their sides, indicated by a 
 sparse vegetation. It gives to them a mottled and 
 zebra appearance, and this feature is common to 
 them all. Many of their castle-like crags are 
 fringed with fir trees, whilst often their sides are 
 deeply terraced to the water's edge, and planted 
 with paddy and sweet potatoes. Little brown 
 thatched villages, with their big roofs crowding 
 down over the mud walls, lie hidden up the many 
 inlets and winding channels, or nestle on the beach 
 of the seashore. 
 
 Time and again we look back on the undulating 
 track of our course, and cannot see the winding 
 entrance now shut out by islands. We look 
 forward ; there is a rounded shore. It is a perfect 
 lake. Just as we enter the narrowest and therefore 
 most beautiful passage, the Captain points out a 
 barren cone, well ensconced behind several main- 
 lands of islands. Not so very long hence we 
 shall be passing underneath, but on the other side 
 of that mountainous peak, and so it goes on, one 
 intricate strait succeeding another. 
 
 The Inland Sea is a long procession of islands. 
 
2o8 Newfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 The Japanese reckon several thousands, but it 
 would be an impossible task to count them, as one 
 by one they unfold themselves to us, as we steam 
 among their fantastic shapes. For there are islands 
 of every imaginable form and size, square and round 
 with sugar-loaf cones, or extinguisher tops with 
 castellated summits, or small and four-sided like a 
 floating haystack. Some are so large that they are 
 like the mainland, and others mere thimble points. 
 Here, there are three tiny islands formed of three 
 little rocks, with a tuft of palms, and joined by a 
 spit of sand ; there, a barren heap of sand with a 
 solitary fir tree on the top ; or, again, it is a moun- 
 tain island with deep evergreens. 
 
 Hundreds of junks come sailing by, with the 
 pleasant swish of the water against their keels, 
 whilst even here they have screens of paper, cover- 
 ing the wooden trellises of their sides. They are 
 a perpetual delight, these curious whimsically- 
 fashioned vessels, with their ancient prows standing 
 high out of the water, recalling as they do the 
 old prints of the fleet of the Spanish Armada, of 
 which they are exact reproductions. Their one 
 square sail is attached to a single mast, and pulls 
 up and down like a curtain on running strings, and 
 the black patch sewn on it denotes the owner's 
 name. 
 
 What makes the Inland Sea so beautiful ? The 
 Japanese themselves have no name for it, nor have 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 2oy 
 
 their poets ever sung its praises. I suppose we 
 must say it is the innumerable islands, though 
 many of these are the reverse of beautiful in them- 
 selves. Or is it the great ocean steamer threading 
 so swiftly the successive intricate windings and 
 snake-like passages } No. I think it is perhaps 
 the ceaseless variety. Every minute the scene 
 changes ; it is never the same for more than a few 
 seconds, and is often so beautiful that you want to 
 look on both sides at once. Certainly in the 
 course of our many wanderings, we have never been 
 more pleased than with this Inland Sea. All the 
 morning the sky was overcast, and a purple haze 
 rested lightly on the mountains, and the sea was 
 pale green. But in the afternoon, just as we 
 reached the most charming part by the northern 
 course, the sun broke through, and we had the 
 long afternoon shadows, with softened sunlight, on 
 this scene of rare beauty. 
 
 We have had, too, a wonderful conjunction of 
 pleasures in a superb sunrise, and a more exquisite 
 sunset in one day. This morning at Kobe I saw 
 sunrise. At six o'clock the sky was heralded with 
 crimson glory. To-night the sun, as it always does 
 in these Eastern latitudes, sinks suddenly — a golden 
 ball into an orange bed. It is going, going slowly, 
 until gone behind that purple range, and just as 
 it is dying the symmetry of the orb is cut into 
 and spoilt by a jutting rock on the mountains. 
 
 P 
 
210 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Then, whilst darkness falls over the land, the 
 golden bed begins to glow and palpitate with 
 colour, and spreads and spreads, until the exquisite 
 pink, and lilac and green, melt into the cobalt 
 vault above. The sea is extended in a tremulous 
 sheet of dazzling gold, and the black prows and 
 the figures on the junks are cut in Vandyck relief 
 out of this gilded background. The silver moon 
 rises over a lighthouse on the other side of the 
 ship. Soon little mackerel clouds separate them- 
 selves, and float over the sky, and as we watch 
 a ruddy glow succeeds, growing blood-red, and 
 bathing sky and sea in a crimson flood, which dies, 
 oh ! so lingeringly and wistfully into purple dark- 
 ness. 
 
 Nor is this all, for by-and-by, as we are looking 
 over the bulwarks, perhaps still a little awe-bound 
 by this superb display of nature, a great, green, 
 electric wave rises up from the dark sea, thrown 
 aside by the ships' bows, and breaks away in 
 gleaming particles. It is the brilliant phosphores- 
 cence of the spawn of the sardine, which in daytime 
 is spread out like red dust upon the waves. Some- 
 times it is so bright that the whole sea is alight, 
 and in passing a channel ships have to stop, being 
 unable to see the coast. 
 
 At two o'clock in the morning we stop to coal 
 at Shimonoseki, in the straits between the main 
 island of Nippon and that of Kyushu. A party 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea, 2 1 1 
 
 of geishas, or dancing girls, come on board and 
 go over the ship, and I get up in time to see a row 
 of little policemen , with their coloured lanterns 
 going down the gangway. 
 
 The next day, at midday, we again come into 
 an even more beautiful inland channel. Islands 
 of emerald green are seen across a white-flecked 
 sapphire ocean on a glorious day — a line of 
 white creamy foam denting the black rock-bound 
 coast, above which rise volcanic strata of grey 
 and black cliff of the most wonderful formations, 
 deformed and twisted into spinular columns and 
 basaltic contortions, and the unwieldy mass of the 
 huge ship is made to double round shaip angles, 
 and avoid the conical islands sticking so irritat- 
 ingly out in the mid-ocean passage. In one place 
 there is a lighthouse towering on a rock so 
 rugged and steep, that no path can be cut in 
 the cliffs, and we see the derrick and the basket 
 which are used for letting people up arid down, 
 from the boats to the platform of the phare. 
 
 We are pointed out the place, where, in this 
 far-distant island of Japan, Fran9ois de Xavier^ 
 in 1549, first landed to try and Christianize the 
 natives. We are in an inner channel. Far, far 
 away, beyond two grey islands on the sky line; 
 lies Corea. Whichever way we look .theie is a 
 dotted circuit of islands, always of those whimsi- 
 cal shapes. Occasionally, miles ahead, one' little 
 
 r 2 
 
2 1 2 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 island will staad all solitary amid the ocean, or 
 in another you can see the half that has fallen 
 away, leaving a clear cut scar, an abrupt termina- 
 tion to the island. But the most curious of all 
 is an enormous bell-shaped rock, standing erect 
 in the ocean with a perfect arch through it. 
 
 Captain Connor, the best and most genial of 
 commanders, puts the ship about that we may 
 " kodak " it, and by degrees the slit of light opens 
 out into a perfect archway. 
 
 Over the archipelago of islands, under a green 
 mountain, lies Nagasaki, and we find an entrance — 
 a blind and mysterious one — into its harbour. 
 
 The harbour of Nagasaki is very beautiful. It 
 is "long and narrow, winding in among the 
 mountains like a Scotch firth." Every separate 
 mountain is terraced in green circles down to the 
 water's edge, and in each little conical hill the 
 circles get narrower at the top. In some, there are 
 wooded knolls crowned by a chapel, with winding 
 stone steps, that lead up from the black torii on 
 the banks, where prayers are offered for sailors 
 and the safe return of the fishing junks. We 
 pass at the entrance the round island of Pappen- 
 burg, where we can still see the flight of steps, 
 down which the Christians were thrown into the 
 sea 300 years ago. We get safely past the 
 quarantine station, pitying a British ship lying 
 bound, with the yellow flag hoisted on her mast. 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 
 
 o 
 
 There are red lights, in the shape of a cross, 
 strung from the masts of a sunken vessel across 
 our passage, for last week the captain of this 40b- 
 ton brig took out the ballast, and a few hours 
 afterwards she suddenly heeled over and sank, 
 drowning the captain's wife, who was in the cabin, 
 and the first officer. 
 
 As we breast this landed-locked harbour, under 
 the opal hues of a delicate sunset, we give to it 
 the palm (always excepting Sydney) over all 
 other harbours. At the head of the bay we see 
 the town and the handsome houses of the con- 
 sulates on the Bund, and above that again many 
 more pleasantly situated houses, equally handsome 
 and belonging to missionaries. 
 
 I do not wish to make any observations on the 
 missionary question, which, without special know- 
 ledge, it would be wrong to speak of, but I must 
 say that we have never heard any resident of any 
 foreign country speak a single word in favour of 
 the missionaries. On the contrary, we are struck 
 how they generally condemn them, I hope un- 
 justly, as mischievous, idle, and luxurious. 
 
 As we come to our buoy opposite the town, 
 thousands of lights, running out' in zig-zag lines 
 into the harbour, seem to come out with one 
 accord, creeping in scattered dots of fire up the 
 mountain sides, and there with these myriads of 
 twinkling lights, winking and blinking at us like 
 
214 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 a thousand eyes, and with the dull splash of oars 
 in the water, we get such unrestful sleep as is 
 possible on a ship in port. Now we can well 
 imagine the scene described thus : — 
 
 "Every j'ear, from the 13th to the iSth of 
 August, the whole population of Nagasaki cele- 
 brate the Bon Matsuri, or the Feast of the Dead. 
 The first night all the tombs of those who died in 
 the past year are illuminated with bright-coloured 
 paper lanterns. On the second and third nights 
 all the graves without exception are so illuminated, 
 and the families of Nagasaki instal themselves in 
 the cemeteries, where they give themselves up, in 
 honour of their ancestors, to plentiful libations. 
 The bursts of uproarious gaiety resound from 
 terrace to terrace, and rockets fired at intervals 
 seem to blend with the giddy human noises the 
 echoes of the celestial vault. The European 
 residents repair to the ships in the bay to see 
 from the distance the fairy spectacle of the hills, 
 all resplendent with rose-coloured lights. 
 
 " But on the third night, suddenly, at about 
 two o'clock in the morning, long processions of 
 bright lanterns are seen to descend from the 
 heights, and group themselves on the shore of 
 the bay, while the mountains gradually return to 
 obscurity and silence. It is fated that the dead 
 embark and disappear before twilight. The 
 living have plaited them thousands of little ships 
 
The Western Capital and Inland Sea. 215 
 
 of straw, each provisioned with some fruit and 
 a few pieces of money. The frail embarkations 
 are charged with all the coloured lanterns which 
 were used for the illumination of the cemeteries ; 
 the small sails of matting are spread to the wind, 
 and the morning breeze scatters them round the 
 bay, where they are not long in taking fire. It 
 is thus that the entire flotilla is consumed, trac- 
 ing in all directions large trails of fire. The 
 dead depart rapidly. Soon the last ship has 
 foundered, the last light is extinguished.and the last 
 soul has taken its departure again from this earth." 
 
 The next morning we were ashore before 
 breakfast to see the fish market, for Nagasaki is 
 one of the largest fishing ports in the world, and 
 it has been proved that there are 600 specimens 
 of fish brought into this market, by a gentleman 
 who has drawn them and written a book on the 
 subject. 
 
 Nagasaki has several canals, and is a quaint little 
 town developed from a fishing village, but with 
 nothing of much interest in it. We spend the day 
 as usual in the shops, plunging with a desperation 
 born of the feeling that it is really our last chance 
 of buying in Japan ; we are in an agony of fear up 
 to the last minute lest our purchases should not 
 arrive before the steamer sails at 4 o'clock. 
 
 And it is in the dull light of a clouded afternoon 
 that we glide out of the beautiful harbour of 
 
2i6 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Nagasaki, and in a few hours even the coast line, 
 is lost to us, and fair Nippon, the Land of the 
 Rising Sun (such an appropriate name for the swiftly 
 progressing Island Empire) is a remembrance of 
 the past. Bright memories will linger with us in 
 a medley dream, of rosy sunsets, of clear skies in 
 those marvellous pale washes, of gaudy temples 
 with their moss-grown steps, hallowed by the 
 solemn hush around, mingling with the pictures 
 of those queer, dark little shops, of tiny gardens 
 comprised in tiny courtyards, of gentle little men 
 and women in flapping cotton garments, of golden 
 lacquer, red and black, of gorgeous kakemonos, 
 bronzes, cloisonne, of delicately tinted textures, and 
 above all of solemn gilt Buddhas, seated on lotus- 
 leaved pedestals, and gleaming at us from out 
 dark corners. 
 
 We pass out into the grey space of the Yellow 
 Sea. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE YELLOW LAND. 
 
 The turbid orange-coloured waters of the great 
 Yangtze are around us — " the river of the golden 
 sands," far too poetical a name for the muddy 
 waters, that with a strong current swish and eddy 
 against the ship's side. 
 
 The spirit of travel that rises strong within you 
 as you approach the landing to a new country, is 
 discouraged by that thin line of flat, ugly land, 
 which is all we see on that dull October morning, 
 through a mist of rain, of the coast of China. 
 
 The Yellow Land ! Rightly named, indeed. 
 The sea is yellow, the rivers are yellow, the land 
 is yellow, the people, too, are yellow — and the 
 Dragon Flag is yellow. Yellow, too, might China 
 be with gold if only her rulers, the mandarins, 
 would let her people give scope to their abilities, 
 develop the rich resources of an as yet barely 
 touched country, and strike ahead among the 
 nations of the world. 
 
 We had anchored at the Saddles, some little 
 
2iS Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Islands with a fancied resemblance to that equine 
 article, and then moved up with the tide, opposite 
 to the fleet of sampan masts at Woosung; but 
 still the water on the bar is too low, and they 
 whistle for a steam tug to take us off the Saikio 
 Maru, and up fifteen miles of the deadly uninter- 
 esting reaches of the Wung-Poo — the last tributary 
 of the Yangtze — to Shanghai. 
 
 What a mighty river this Yangtze is. The name 
 signifies the Child of the Ocean, and the Chinese 
 have various others for it, such as " The Father of 
 Rivers," " The Girdle of China." " It is the richest 
 river in the world — richest in navigable waters, 
 in mighty cities, in industrious human beings, in 
 affluent tributaries, in wide margins of cultivated 
 lands of inexhaustible fertility. This vast expanse 
 of turpid fresh water is saturated with the loam of 
 fields 1500 miles away." The Yangtze rises in 
 Central Asia, and drains an area of 600,000 square 
 miles of Midland China. 
 
 We pass hundreds of junks, the quaintest ships 
 afloat in the world, with their sides decorated with 
 brilliant blue and red frescoes, and sails of bamboo 
 matting ; the all-seeing black and white eye is in 
 the bow of the boat, for no Chinese junk would 
 sail without this occult protection. 
 
 Lost to us are the beauties of the palm and 
 flower-covered Bund, the pride of Shanghai (on 
 this first occasion), for we land in a drenching rain, 
 
The Yelloiv Land. 2 1 9 
 
 and seek shelter in a dirty jinrikisha lined with 
 green and red oilskin, and drawn by a feeble 
 coolie — and this began the first of our disadvan- 
 tageous comparisons between China and Japan. 
 By all means let everyone visit China first, with 
 its dirty mud villages, devoid ever of picturesque- 
 ness, its swarming, grasping, sullen people, and 
 leave Japan — dear, clean, little Japan, with its 
 picturesque streets, and charming, willing little 
 fairies to the last. From that moment of landing 
 I took a repugnance to China, and the more I saw 
 of it the more the dislike grew. 
 
 An hour after reaching Shanghai, we. were told 
 of a steamer leaving for Tientsin immediately — a 
 cargo boat, it was true, but the captain was willing 
 to take us. The last bale of goods was being 
 lowered into the hold, the Blue Peter flying at her 
 ma.sthead ; a hasty decision being necessary without 
 more reflection, and, being most anxious to push on 
 to Peking, we embarked on board. 
 
 The Cktng Ping is a Chinese collier of 500 tons, 
 trading between the coast ports, and with a single 
 cabin for a chance passenger, A glance was 
 sufficient to show us the fate in store for us for 
 the next few days, but it was then too late. As 
 we scudded out into the Yellow Sea, in a storm 
 of wind and rain we began to suffer. The horrors 
 of that long night are yet like a bad dream. We 
 heard bell after bell strike, and thought that dawn 
 
2 20 Newfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 would never break, for the Ching Ping rolled to 
 desperation, shipping heavy seas, whilst the wind 
 blew like a hurricane through the " alloway " under 
 which was our cabin, blowing showers of spray in 
 at the door, while on closing it we were suffocated. 
 We were unable to move, for it was impossible to 
 stand, and in total darkness, for the matches had 
 early disappeared amid the chaos of articles on 
 the floor, which we helplessly heard rolling about 
 and bounding against the walls. Nor was this the 
 worst ; for the rain and spray leaked through the 
 woodwork of the cabin, and soon our berths and 
 clothes were saturated, and deadly sick, with no 
 dry place in which to place our heads, we lay 
 drenched through the weary hours of that dread- 
 ful night. 
 
 It was a sorry sight, a scene of wreckage and 
 despair, that good Captain Crowlie looked in upon 
 the next morning, when we begged to be put 
 ashore anywhere, at any cost, rather than spend 
 such another night on board. He was so kind to 
 us, taking us up and establishing us in his own 
 cabin on the hurricane deck, where we passed the 
 remainder of the voyage. 
 
 For the past few days we had been cro.ssing the 
 stormy Gulf of Pechele, with the now grey, now 
 purple, coast-line of the great province of Chihli to 
 port. It is late on the fourth afternoon that we are 
 on the bridge with the captain, all anxiety to know 
 
The Yellow Land. 2 2 1 
 
 whether we shall cross the bar at the mouth of the 
 Peiho to-night, for he fears that we are just two 
 hours too late to catch the flood tid e. 
 
 The entrance to the Peiho is most extraor- 
 dinary ; for there is no sign of land, no banks 
 visible to indicate that it is a river, but only the 
 bulbous buoy of the lighter opposite the bar, 
 rising above the horizon, growing clearer every 
 minute. It is determined to make a desperate 
 effort, and everybody is on the alert ; officers at 
 their various posts, the engineer putting on all 
 steam, the steering-gear connected to the upper 
 bridge, whilst the leadsman, a quaint Chinese figure 
 perched out on an overhanging gangway, is set to 
 work. At each call the water gets shallower, and 
 decreases at every throw from fifteen feet to thir- 
 teen feet down to nine, and then the flat bottom of 
 the Ching Ping ensconces itself comfortably on 
 the bed of mud, and the fatal " Let go anchor " 
 sounds from the bridge. We stay there for the 
 night, a sudden silence falling on the ship in the 
 silver moonlight, save for the convulsive sobbing of 
 the engines, giving forth their last oppression of 
 steam. Alas ! we shall not sleep in Tientsin to- 
 night. 
 
 At 2 o'clock in the morning the commotion, 
 as we get under weigh, begins afresh, and no sleep 
 is possible after that, for there is the frantic whir- 
 ring of the steering-gear just outside the cabin, 
 
2 22 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 as the sharp commands from the bridge, make the 
 wheel race from port to starboard. We stop op- 
 posite the Taku Custom House, and whistle ever 
 louder and more angrily for the sleeping officer, 
 who eventually comes reluctantly on board. And 
 then in the moonlight we glide by the crumbling 
 banks, past mud villages, silent as the grave, lying 
 in deep shadows, until morning glimmers in the 
 purple red of the sky, and we pay our morning 
 orisons to the rising sun, in its glory, over the well- 
 cultivated, intensely flat plains, and the cracked 
 mud banks of the great Peiho. 
 
 The navigation of this river is the most wonder- 
 ful series of nautical evolutions. The steamers 
 are especially built with flat bottoms for the 
 service, and must not draw more than ten feet of 
 water. It is without exception the most exas- 
 perating bit of navigation, calling forth the anathe- 
 mas alike of captain and passengers. There is 
 first of all the bar, where at high water there is 
 often only from ten to eleven feet. Here it is 
 possible to wait for several days before there is 
 enough water for a steamer to cross, and in most 
 cases the cargo has to be taken out to lighten 
 the ship on one side, and replaced on the other, or 
 again sometimes it may be too rough for the 
 lighters to come alongside. Then commence the 
 windings, so sharp that steam is shut ofl", whilst the 
 bows of the ship are across the stream, and the 
 
The Yellow Land. 223 
 
 stern is all but on the bank, the dangers of going 
 aground being considerably increased by the shal- 
 lowness of the water. To give an idea of the ser- 
 pentine course of the .river — a steamer which we 
 passed in a bend on the port side, two hundred 
 yards further on will be to starboard. The effect 
 produced by this is, that the large sails of the 
 sampans are a succession of ships sailing inland, 
 in contrary directions. 
 
 We pass the mud forts of Taku, where the great 
 battle of i860 took place, when the allied forces 
 were on their march to Peking. The Chinese idea 
 of fortifications, as a rule, consists largely of walls of 
 mud with a hard battened surface, and these forts 
 are intended for the protection of the Peiho, but 
 really their best one rests in the bar at its mouth. 
 There is the embankment yonder of China's only 
 railway. It runs from Taku to Tientsin. Fancy 
 a country of four million square miles, with a popu- 
 lation of as many millions as there are days in the 
 year, with but one single railway of a few miles ! 
 Yet such is the case ; China is still in the shadow 
 of the dark ages. 
 
 The morning mists gather into a thin vapour 
 and roll upwards, showing miles of fields, cultivated 
 like kitchen gardens, interspersed with mud villages, 
 where the houses are made of wattles plastered 
 over with the earth they stand on, with chimneys 
 formed of a cone of mudj and paper windows. In 
 
2 24 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 wet weather and floods these houses often partially 
 dissolve, or subside altogether. But then they are 
 so easily rebuilt. Here the urchins come out and 
 revel in the murky wash in our wake, whilst the 
 sampan propellers push hurriedly off from the 
 bank, lest we land them, as indeed we did one, 
 high and dry after our swell had subsided. Hun- 
 dreds of coolies are trudging along, with their 
 bamboo poles slung across their shoulders, whilst 
 others squatted on the ground occupied with that 
 B.C., or ancient Eastern method of irrigation, the 
 automatically worked water-wheel. 
 
 We now have the disagreeable excitement of 
 going aground, a gentle bump on a flat bank, 
 where we stick fast, and recall all the stories 
 which we have been hearing, of steamers staying 
 aground for a week or ten days. Meanwhile the 
 screw churns away at the liquid mud, and a crowd 
 collects on the causeway above, and yet we remain 
 fast. It is after half an hour's manoeuvring that 
 we get off and procee J through the few more peril- 
 ous bends still left, with a few more hair-breadth 
 escapes. We see the tall chimneys, covering 
 a large area, of the Arsenal, and then the Pagoda, 
 with its white umbrellas, overlooking the fort and 
 military exercise ground for the troops, and then 
 we are nearing Tientsin. It is pleasant in the 
 first view of Tientsin to be greeted by a familiar 
 remembrance of England, in the towers of a 
 
The Yellow Land. 225 
 
 miniature Windsor Castle, the Victoria Hall of 
 the English Settlement, that tower above the dust- 
 coloured hovels. It is in strange contrast to the 
 two cages on the banks, fixed on the top of tall 
 bamboo poles, where are seen the heads of two 
 criminals. Doubtless they were executed on the 
 spot where the crime was committed, as is the 
 Chinese custom. 
 
 We anchor in the river, and amid a deafening 
 roar, and the shoving, scraping and pushing of 
 hundreds of filthy sampans, we land on the Bund 
 of Tientsin, and are settling into the somewhat unin- 
 viting quarters of the Astor House, when Mr. Byron 
 Brennan, H. M.'s Consul, kindly sends for us, and 
 in an hour we are installed in luxury, and have 
 washed away the unpleasant reminiscences of our 
 journey across the Yellow Sea in a collier. 
 
 The English Consulate looks out over the 
 Bund, but it is such a different Bund to the usual 
 one of handsome houses and gardens touching 
 the water's edge. This one is piled up with 
 merchandise ; great bales of goods, covered with 
 matting, are stacked under the trees or strewn 
 about the ground, and through the wide-opened 
 windows come all day the shouts and cries of the 
 strong-limbed coolies, as they lade and unlade the 
 ships. A strange silence falls over the busy 
 scene of the day, at night. But in another month 
 or two the Bund will be a model of neatness, 
 
 Q 
 
226 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 swept and clean, and all this bustling scene will 
 be hushed under the spell of winter, for the Peiho 
 freezes in the end of November or beginning of 
 December. Merchants are now hurrying to send 
 away the last of their merchandise, and residents 
 are receiving their last supplies before the river is 
 closed. During those winter months Tientsin is 
 entirely cut off from the outer world, save for the 
 mails which are brought overland. No one can 
 enter or leave the town to go south, and business 
 is at a standstill until spring breaks up the ice. 
 This isolation comes suddenly, for we heard of a 
 steamer that went aground below Tientsin, and in 
 one night was frozen in by a coat of ice a foot thick. 
 A British gunboat is anchored under the Consulate, 
 sent up since the late riots at Wuhu, and it is a 
 great comfort to the English residents to feel that 
 she is to spend the winter here. 
 
 We passed a quiet forenoon with a regular 
 feast of the Times and of home news. Then 
 in the evening Mrs. Brennan took me for a walk 
 round the European Concession, down Consulate 
 Road, where the consulates of the various nations 
 are situated, to the Gordon Hall and Victoria 
 Gardens. Five years ago this was a mud-dried 
 waste — strange contrast to these pretty zoological 
 gardens, with its tennis courts, and well laid out 
 paths, and Chinese band playing. The Hall 
 is the centre of social life, where dances and 
 
7 he Yellow Land. 227 
 
 public entertainments are held, and it has a 
 capital Library and Reading-room. At the 
 entrance are stands of guns, belonging to the 
 Volunteer corps of foreign gentlemen, who are 
 ready to come to arms should necessity arise. 
 
 Like so many other places of this kind, Tientsin 
 has but one drive out into the country, and along 
 this we go up on to the city wall. We stand on 
 the high elevation of the deeply arched bridge, 
 and look out on the flat swamps of mudland, on 
 the surrounding marshy and unhealthy pools. It 
 is mud in some shape or form whichever way you 
 look, it is seen alike in houses, walls and roads, 
 and it is certainly very like what I pictured China 
 from reading books of travel. 
 
 The Europeans on their small spotty Chinese 
 ponies, or driving in their cabriolet carriages, are 
 returning from their evening exercise. Tientsin 
 seems to be a pleasant place socially, particularly 
 in the cold though bright winter, when business is 
 slack on account of the frozen river, and the little 
 community join together to amuse themselves 
 with skating and sailing of ice-boats. And so 
 soon as the first dust storm spoils the river ice, 
 they enclose this pond we are passing, and make 
 a covered skating rink. 
 
 My husband has just returned from a visit to 
 the great Viceroy, Li Hung Chang, who sent soon 
 after our arrival to say that he would be glad to 
 Q 2 
 
2 28 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 see him. So at five o'cloclc he and Mr. Brennan 
 started out in state-green palanquins, the official 
 colour being green in distinction to the ordinary 
 blue, with a numerous retinue and an outrider 
 on a white horse to clear the way, and present the 
 Chinese card, a single sheet of long pink paper. 
 On arrival at the Viceregal Yamen, the exterior and 
 surroundings of which vi^ere little in keeping with 
 the high offices of state held by His Excellency, 
 the chairs were carried into an inner courtyard, 
 ilanked by wooden shields, bearing all the titles of 
 the. Viceroy. The visitors were conducted to the 
 small foreign reception rooms, where His Ex- 
 cellency immediately joined them. 
 
 Li Hung Chang is a tall handsome man of 
 seventy, six feet four inches high, and was dressed 
 in a grey plush robe. He is frequently styled the 
 Bismarck of China, and is certainly the most 
 prominent and influential statesman of this vast. 
 Chinese Empire. For many years Li, the 
 Viceroy, has held his present post of Governor- 
 General of the large Province of Chihli, and unites 
 with it that of Grand Secretary, Guardian of the 
 Heir Apparent, and what is most important of all 
 to us. Commissioner for Trade, in which capacity 
 all Foreign Affairs are referred to him from Peking. 
 In the conversation. His Excellency placed great 
 stress upon his sincere desire to develop closer 
 trade relations with England, and took great 
 
The Yelloiv Land. 229 
 
 interest in the details of the trade of the British' 
 Empire which C. gave him. The interview 
 lasted about an hour, the Viceroy conducting his 
 guests back to their chairs, and sending me his 
 photograph. 
 
 A Chinese Street. 
 
 There are two ways of reaching Peking. You 
 may ride or drive in those terrible country carts 
 the eighty miles, staying one or two nights in an 
 indescribably dirty Chinese inn, or go, as we 
 decided, in a house boat, 120 miles Up the Peiho. 
 
 At two o'clock the next afternoon, we drove in 
 
230 Newfotuidland to Cochin China. 
 
 jinrikishas for an hour through the heart of the 
 native quarter. This is my first view of a real 
 Chinese city, and my early impressions are com- 
 prised in the all-pervading, all-powerful, smother- 
 ing filth and dirt, in the revolting smells and 
 disgusting sights ; my next, in the jostling of crowds 
 of coolies wheeling enormous iron-bound bales on 
 wheelbarrows, of carts drawn by teams of mules, 
 donkeys or oxen, of equestrians, pedestrians, 
 jinrikishas, and sedan^ chairs, crowded into a six- 
 foot wide street, curtained with bamboo mats 
 above, producing a bewildering pandemonium. 
 Passing the particularly squalid corner where is 
 situated the Yamen, we see the twin towers of the 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral. They stand there 
 as a solemn reminder of the dangers which yet 
 threaten the Settlement, and of the fanatical people 
 they are surrounded by, for it was here in 1870 
 that there was that awful massacre of Roman 
 Catholic nuns, followed by the pillage of the 
 Convent and Cathedral. 
 
 On arrival at the bridge of boats, we find our 
 house-boat, Chinese boy, provisions, luggage and 
 crew of coolies safely on board, and after many 
 objurations from the delayed passengers, a passage 
 by the removal of one of the boats is made for us, 
 and we begin our long journey up the Peiho. 
 
 This house-boat is very comprehensive on a 
 small scale, for we have a sitting-room and bed- 
 
The Yellow Land. 231 
 
 room and kitchen. There is a tiny promenade 
 deck in the bows, then down two steps and you 
 are in a room with a bench, a table and two stools, 
 the door being formed of movable planks of wood. 
 Through an elegant arabesque of woodwork, 
 screened with paper, we can see the raised floor on 
 which are spread our mattresses with red quilts. 
 Behind a similar screen is the kitchen, a few square 
 inches.undertheshadowof the helm, whereour clever 
 " Boy," who is cook, valet and interpreter in one, 
 turns out the most deliciously cooked and varied 
 dishes, with a batterie de cuisine, consisting of a 
 few tin saucepans and an iron brazier of charcoal. 
 As for the creWj they sleep on deck anywhere, and 
 keep their provisions in the hold. The flat- 
 bottomed boat has an arched roof of matting laid 
 on bamboo sticks. It is clean, for I only saw one 
 black-beetle, but is only moderately air and water- 
 tight. Our tiny domicile is dominated by an 
 enormous sail which is hoisted up and down on 
 running strings. We either tow or pole, or sail, 
 according to the wind and stream. 
 
 The vast and varied river life is before us. The 
 banks for some miles above Tientsin are lined 
 with these ugly sampans, their tattered sails hang- 
 ing in ribbons, their decks strewn with ddbris 
 where the naked children disport themselves, and 
 the women steer at the helm ; for in these 
 sampans generations are born, live, and die, and 
 
232 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 they are coated too with the dirt of many- 
 decades. There are fishermen on the • bank 
 where, projecting out of the little hut which he in- 
 habits, is a net stretched wide on bamboo poles, 
 baited with the white of egg spread on the meshes. 
 He lowers it slowly up and down, and at each dip 
 we see the little silver-scaled fish jumping about 
 in the net. There are children dabbling in the 
 mud, true mud-larks, and women washing their 
 clothes. We espy a bridge over a tributary, with 
 a single graceful arch, so curved as to be half an 
 oval, and with some houses, a willow tree and 
 pig-tailed Chinaman, calling to remembrance the 
 willow-patterned plate of our childhood. We pass 
 several covered Chinese gun-boats, — war-junks, — 
 with their blue and white striped awnings, and a 
 Maxim gun in the bows kept for the defence of the 
 Peiho, and the patrolling of the river. 
 
 We get out into the country at length, between 
 high mud banks, and by a continuous succession 
 of villages, their brown dusty walls abutting on to 
 the hard-trodden towing path, whilst around is 
 that careful cultivation resembling a sucession of 
 kitchen gardens, with its plots of lettuces of enor- 
 mous size, of cabbages, turnips and onions ; and 
 the vertical pole of the water tank is always amongst 
 them. A place is hollowed out in the bank, where, 
 from, a cross plank, the bucket attached to the 
 pole is pulled down to the water, v/hen the 
 
The Yellow Land. 233 
 
 weighted end bears the bucket up and the water 
 is emptied into the channels that surround each 
 plot. Morning and evening you see hundreds 
 of these automatically-working figures, thus irri- 
 gating their fields. The population appear ill- 
 disposed towards foreigners, they collect in the. 
 villages and on the sampans and point and jeer at 
 me, for the Chinese keep their women at home, and 
 are shocked at the way " Barbarians," as they call 
 us, travel with their wives. 
 
 After punting for a little while, three of the 
 coolies begin ,to tow, but it is tedious work, as our 
 line has constantly to be undone or passed round 
 the masts of other sampans. Indeed, all the way 
 there are processions of these vessels crawling 
 up the river heavily laden with cargoes of rice, salt, 
 camels' hair, sheep's wool, and vegetables, with 
 their four or six towers, whose brown figures are 
 bent double against the line, patiently staggering 
 along for mile after mile against the current. 
 Our coolies are very willing and cheerful, spring- 
 ing ashore to begin that weary work of tacking 
 against stream-, and subsisting on scanty meals of 
 rice, cabbage and maccaroni, which we watch them, 
 at mid- day and sunset, tucking rapidly into their 
 mouths with chop sticks. Sometimes they sing in 
 chorus to encourage themselves, with a soft croon- 
 ing chant. 
 
 As evening approaches, columns of smoke rise 
 
234 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 from the stern of the sampans, showing the pre- 
 paration of the evening meal, and the mists gather 
 low over the villages. We see the great high 
 road to Peking, raised on a mud embankment, 
 that now and again keeps company with the river ; 
 it is bordered here with an avenue of whispering 
 willows, and against the orange sunset come such 
 picturesque figures along it. Now a little lady, with 
 her pantaloons reaching to her little feet, tippeting 
 along as if she must fall at every step, a horseman 
 on a shaggy white pony, running along without 
 rising in the saddle, a big man overshadowing a 
 tiny donkey, a jinrikisha, a country cart with oxen, 
 or one of those ancient wooden cabriolets, all out- 
 lined in black relief against the yellow sky. 
 
 We go to sleep! with the sound of the water 
 gently gurgling against the bottom of the boat, the 
 croaking of the frogs on the banks, whilst our 
 patient coolies plod automatically along. They 
 anchor for a few hours in the middle of the night 
 opposite a large village, whence the regular muffled 
 tom-tom of the watchman, a deep and solemn tone, 
 is wafted across to us. At three in the morning 
 there is a rushing sound as of wind and water, and 
 to our great joy we find that we are sailing before 
 a brisk wind. 
 
 The scenery of the Peiho is repelling in its ugli- 
 ness, and wearisome from its extreme monotony. 
 The country is absolutely flat, and there is nothing, 
 
The Yellow Land. 
 
 235 
 
 now that the harvest is carried in, but a parched 
 saHne plain, of mud and yellow grass, extending 
 for hundreds of miles all around. 
 
 The only hills are those of the graves — these 
 
 \ , iiiiiiiniiiiiiii iiiiiiiijiiiii] 
 
 Our Home on the Peiho. 
 
 unwieldy mounds of battened earth, that stand in 
 rows along the bank, or are collected in a field — a 
 family burial place, with mounds of varying sizes. 
 The greater the man, the larger is the tumulus 
 raised over him. Then there are other and more 
 disagreeable ones, where the coffin has been tem- 
 
236 NeTSjfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 pofarily earthed above ground, awaiting perhaps 
 a favourable moment for burial, or sufficient funds 
 to take the deceased back to the place of his birth ; 
 for this is the dearly cherished hope of every China- 
 man, and often, when old age approaches, he 
 returns to his native place to be ready to die there. 
 An even more objectionable custom is that of 
 putting coffins down in open fields, or along the 
 roads. We saw one covered in red standing 
 like this, just outside a village, and you find them 
 in the same way all over China. There is a su^ 
 perstition that it is lucky to bury within sight of 
 water or in a place which commands a view, and 
 that is why we see such rows of graves for miles 
 and miles by the river bank. To the Chinese their 
 burial is the most important thing of life. They 
 prepare their coffins and keep them in their 
 houses for years beforehand, though their unwieldy 
 size and solidity take up much ill-spared space, 
 and the object of every woman of the poorest 
 class is to save enough for her grave-clothes. It 
 has been truly, said that the whole face of China 
 is burrowed under by these graves. 
 
 The turpid yellow waters of the Peiho swirl 
 against our boat, particularly at the reaches, where 
 the current is strongest. The harvest is over, the 
 poppy fields are bare, and there are only a few 
 tall straggly castor-oil plants along the banks. 
 A few, very few coolies, in loose blue cotton gar- 
 
The Yellow Land. 237 
 
 mentSj are at work, ploughing with ancient and 
 rude ploughshares. The teams they use are 
 delightfully mixed. You may often see an ox and 
 horse, a donkey and a mule all pulling together; 
 And the same useful mixture is seen in the carts 
 that resemble old Roman chariots, crawling along 
 the towing path, where a bull with a tandem 
 donkey is a favourite team. These donkeys 
 are beautiful animals ; small, but with sleek grey, 
 brown and black coats, with the well-marked 
 neck rings, and line down the centre of the back. 
 We meet solitary pedestrians trudging along with 
 their heads down against the wind, and we wonder 
 whence they came and whither they are going, for 
 we are now only passing isolated villages at great 
 distances. In some of the few we sail by, the mud 
 walls surrounding the villages have a graceful open- 
 work arabesque at the top, and in one, to the sound 
 of much tom-tomming, a festival was progressing, 
 at which all the inhabitants (as there were none to 
 be seen) are evidently assisting. 
 
 The windings described by the Peiho are aggra- 
 vating. The actual distance traversed, after a series 
 of bends, being equal to about half a mile as the 
 crow flies. Again and again we see the extra- 
 ordinary phenomenon of a row of sails walking 
 inland ; and how picturesque these brown-patched 
 sails look, as extended by the wind they glide in 
 single file against] the sky line. The wind is a 
 
238 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 subject of great anxiety on the Peiho, because if it 
 is. ahead one the crew make fast to the bank at 
 once, and await a favourable change; and even if it 
 is, as to-day, behind us, the river winds so much 
 that we box every point of the compass, and so it 
 is not always to our advantage. We watch our 
 progress with great interest ; and now we are scud- 
 ding gaily before a lovely fresh breeze, with the 
 pleasant sound of rushing water under the keel, 
 whilst the big sail overhead balloons out and 
 swells hopefully. To this succeeds a calm, when 
 a little punting with the long poles is neces- 
 sary, or a deep bend when the wind and stream 
 are ahead of us, and which means a painful slow 
 bit of tacking, when the men strain the whole 
 weight of their bodies against the tow line, to pro- 
 gress at all. Again a pleasant rush, the puff of 
 wind catching our ponderous sail, and we scud 
 merrily past the banks. And how our coolies enjoy 
 this ; stretching themselves out, and, sunning on the 
 deck, smoke their pipes. So it goes on all day. 
 
 We passed several gaily-decorated junks belong- 
 ing to a great mandarin with the peacock's feather 
 over the door, generally accompanied by another 
 with the household ; also the ex-French Charge 
 d' Affaires, Monsieur Ristelhueber, and his family, 
 returning to France from Peking,and with whom we 
 afterwards had the pleasure of travelling home- 
 wards for a month on the French mail. 
 
The Yellow Land. 239 
 
 The approach to Peking, which signifies the 
 " Gate of Heaven," is indeed synonymous with the 
 biblical definition in one particular, for it is narrow. 
 This morning the Peiho has dwindled into a ditch 
 between extensive mud flats, and we are constantly 
 aground, our five brown coolies struggling and 
 sweating in the quagmire of soft mud under a 
 broiling sun. It is weary, weary work this slow 
 progress, and we chafe at all the delays of cross-, 
 ing the tow line from one bank to another, to 
 avoid the now continuous succession of sampans, 
 many of which are in worse condition than our- 
 selves, for the men have to get out into the 
 water to push the boat along ; for should we 
 not arrive at Tungchau by noon, we must abandon 
 all hope of reaching Peking to-night, as the gates 
 close at sunset. There is a head wind, with a strong 
 current racing down the narrow channel against 
 us, and we sadly mark how crawling is our pro- 
 gress by the landmarks on the bank. And so the 
 long hours of morning pass, and, just as we are 
 losing hope, we see the blue tower of the pagoda 
 at Tungchau, rising up from the plain, and there are 
 only seven miles more with an hour to do it in, and 
 we shall be at our journey's end. We afterwards 
 found that, favoured by the wind, we had made 
 almost, if not quite, a record passage of forty-six 
 hours, and that many boats take from four to five 
 days in coming up from Tientsin. 
 
240 Newfoimdland to Cochin China. 
 
 We find an anchorage at Tungchau among fleets 
 of sampans, and in half an hour our boy has pro- 
 cured three carts, packed in our luggage, and we 
 are ready to begin the fifteen miles journey to 
 Peking. Let me describe these carts. The body 
 is formed of a few planks of wood, with a hood 
 covered in blue or black stuff. The wheels are of 
 circular pieces of wood, they are guiltless of springs, 
 and are drawn by mules. They resemble an old 
 mediaeval chariot,and indeed they date from and are 
 exactly the same as were in use in the tenth cen- 
 tury. There is no seat inside, and instead of sitting 
 on the floor, it is easiest to ride on the shaft, with 
 your legs hanging over ; but I did not know this in 
 time. Before you have been half an hour in this 
 vehicle you cry out for mercy — for an instant's ces- 
 sation of this agonizing mode of progression, from 
 the unbearable bumping and concussion. And 
 when at length you become numbed by the pain 
 and discomfort, the intense weariness that succeeds, 
 makes you sure that another jolt will be unbear- 
 able, until at last you close your eyes, feeling 
 that nothing but the end of the journey is of the 
 remotest consequence. The roads are somewhat 
 softened by the loose dust. Still, when you tumble 
 into a ditch on one side, with a jar that is felt 
 to your most internal depths, and are then run up 
 on to a bank on the other, you can have some idea 
 of what we suffered during that journey from 
 
The J c//oiu Land. 
 
 241 
 
 Tungchau to Peking. What must have been the 
 agonies endured by Sir Harry Parkes, and our old 
 friend Sir Henry Loch, as they journeyed in these 
 same springless carts to Peking, but with their 
 
 How I went to Pekinq-. 
 
 liands bound behind them and over the stone road 
 that takes a more circuitous route ! 
 
 We passed through the outskirts of Tungchau, 
 througli some bhnd lanes of mud wallSj with doors 
 in them leading to the courts, round which the 
 
 U 
 
242 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 houses are built. Soon we are out on the road — 
 no, it is not a road, but a rough track with several 
 trails, and made of millions of tons of dust, that 
 rise in impenetrable clouds by the passing of a 
 single donkey — dust that smells and tastes of the 
 garbage of China proper, that envelops everything 
 in a white mist, that, easily raised, subsides as 
 lingeringly. The embankments are crumbling 
 into dust, as are the numerous walls of these 
 hideous earth villages which line the road, and are 
 perched on the top of them. The whole face of 
 the land is parched and burnt. The willows 
 are streamers of dust, and the other trees are 
 coated grey with the same. And the road : it is a 
 succession of deep gutters, of holes, of upheavals of 
 sandbanks, running in the middle or across the 
 road, scarcely defined from the surrounding fields — 
 and this is the great highway to the Great City of 
 ■ the unknown Emperor. 
 
 We pa.ss cavalcades of carts, and the gaudily- 
 dressed and painted Chinese women inside peer out. 
 curiously at us ; bullock carts laden with merchan- 
 dise, parties of horsemen, a caravan of camels, and 
 endless strings of donkeys, bearing away the last 
 of the students from the late annual examinations 
 at the capital. Many of these wear goggle spec- 
 tacles, the glasses of which are at least four inches in 
 diameter, and enclosed in broad tortoise-shell rims. 
 With their loose coats they tower over and bulge 
 
The Yellow Land. 243 
 
 out above their tiny quadrupeds, but these sleek, 
 good-looking little donkeys go cheerfully jig- 
 jogging along, with their blue-coated owners urging 
 them from behind. In the oasis of a few trees, 
 the mules are occasionally watered from the tubs 
 that stand ready filled, for the traffic along this 
 highway is ceaseless. 
 
 The sun, as it got lower, scorched mercilessly 
 into the hood, and the dust in its parching 
 aridity became still more trying. The mule began 
 to tire, and the driver cruelly flogged it, while the 
 monotonous waste seems endless. 
 
 Absolute indifference, with a deadly weariness, 
 had long since taken possession of me. The 
 clammy chill of sunset was of no consequence, 
 though I tried to huddle something round me. I 
 was only roused by the sight, over some tree tops, 
 of a little bit of black crenellated wall. The 
 approach to Peking is thus an absolute disappoint- 
 ment, for, instead of seeing the grand walls from 
 afar standing up out of the yellow plain, here we 
 were creeping round a corner to them. In a few 
 minutes we were under the gloom and darkness of 
 this vast mass of stones, piled up on high centuries 
 ago. But, alas ! that at such a moment imagination 
 and sentiment, increased by the difficulties and 
 tediousness of the journey, should succumb before 
 an increased ordeal of pain, as we now join the 
 stone road, and jar over the great crevasses of the 
 
 K 2 
 
244 Newfo^lndland to Cochin China. 
 
 paved way. At last, turning the corner, we enter 
 under the massive arch or gateway, deep with 
 many feet of thickness, called by the poetical 
 name of Hatamen, or the " Gate of Sublime 
 Learning." We are within the outer walls of The 
 Forbidden City. 
 
 Then we find ourselves in a sandy waste, 
 bordered by the wall of the Tartar City on one 
 side and the canal on the other. Little clouds of 
 dust rising in the distance tell of some cart or 
 donkey, and we ourselves continue enveloped in 
 the same as we choose any track we please, for 
 there is, of course, again no road for another weary 
 mile or so. Some flag-poles in the distance bring 
 a ray of comfort, for I shrewdly hope that they 
 mean the quarter of the Legations. Nor is my 
 hope ill-founded, for, passing through a dirty 
 passage, we emerge into the moving streets and are 
 soon in Legation Street, so called from the lion- 
 guarded entrances of the various legations, for the 
 French, the American, the German, and the 
 Russian Envoys are grouped here. We find ac- 
 commodation in one of the numerous courts of the 
 French hotel in this aristocratic street. The sense 
 of comfort of sitting still and not momentarily 
 expecting a concussion is simply delicious. We 
 are full of admiration for the physical bravery 
 and endurance of the many travellers, who for two 
 days or for eighty miles go in these carts from 
 
The Yellow Land. 245 
 
 Tungchau to Peking, through such a prolonged 
 torture. 
 
 The British Legation is over the bridge with an 
 entrance off the Yu-ho canal. And here, the 
 next morning, Sir John and Lady Walsham sent 
 for us and received us most hospitably. 
 
 This beautiful Legation was formerly a Palace 
 belonging to a member of the Imperial Family, 
 as is shown by its green roof. The approach to 
 the entrance is through an aisle and raised pave- 
 ment, formed by two magnificent open gateways 
 supported by pillars, and gorgeously decorated in 
 gold, scarlet, green, and blue. The palace wanders 
 round the spacious enclosure of a courtyard ; 
 and the reception-rooms, with their lofty ceilings 
 inlaid like a temple in green and gold squares, with 
 their hanging screens of that beautiful Chinese 
 black oak carving, are magnificent. The walls are 
 of open work filled in with dull gold papers, and 
 furnished, as these rooms are, with handsome 
 brocades, soft carpets, and rich hangings, chosen 
 to harmonize with the surroundings, the whole is 
 truly regal. 
 
 The compound is large, and contains the bun- 
 galows and houses of the Legation Staff, and the 
 separate apartments of the Student Interpreters, of 
 whom there are six. And a very happy little 
 community of twenty-two persons they appear to 
 be, led by Lady Walsham, who is most hospit- 
 
246 Newformdland to Cochin China. 
 
 ably inclined, and living their life within the four 
 walls of the compound, which they rarely leave, 
 except for social duties, to pass into the outside 
 filth and dust. 
 
 From the windows of our rooms, overshadowed 
 by the deep eaves supported on enormous red 
 wooden pillars, we look out on a succession of 
 peaked roofs, inlaid with green tiles and blue 
 decorations, with rows of pretty little green 
 dragons perched on the ridges, whilst crescent- 
 shaped ornaments depending from the roof, wave 
 with each breath of wind. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE CELESTIAL CITV. 
 
 A CURIOUS difficulty arises in The Celestial City. 
 It is that of locomotion. How are we to get 
 about with no carriages, and only those abominable 
 agonizing carts to drive in ? We end by taking 
 refuge on the humble donkey, and every time we 
 went out messengers had to be sent to the walls 
 to charter the best attainable animals. 
 
 Great mandarins and ministers-plenipotentiary 
 go in chairs, but smaller fry are not allowed to use 
 them, besides which they are prohibitorily expen- 
 sive. Even the late Marquis TsSng, when he re- 
 turned from his embassy to Europe, was at first 
 denied the privilege of a chair, that he might 
 understand that, although great in England, he 
 was small in China. For the Secretaries, ponies 
 are the chosen mode of locomotion by day, and 
 fifty ponies stand in the Legation stables. At night 
 all must walk, lantern in hand, or go in a cart. 
 So it is with the ladies. Carriages are unknown 
 and impossible, with the result that the majority 
 
248 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 make, as I have said, a sweet prison of the com- 
 pound, and lawn tennis has votaries among all 
 ages. 
 
 The sky is clear and blue, with a north wind 
 bringing a deliciously crisp feeling into the air, 
 suitable to this October month. The climate of 
 Peking offers a redeeming feature to the Euro- 
 peans who are isolated here. For the next six 
 months this cloudless sky is uninterrupted. Rain 
 is unknown for nine months together, from July to 
 April, and the worst season is the rainy one of 
 May and June, when the steamy heat is most 
 trying. The winter is perfect — cold, but with warm 
 sun in the middle of the day, and the snow that 
 falls, but occasionally, is soon dispersed by the 
 wind. 
 
 Moreover, Peking is fortunate in having a 
 summer resort close at hand in the Western Hills, 
 some fifteen miles distant. Here the Legation 
 lives for the hot months, in a privately-rented 
 group of Temples. The dust storms are the 
 scourge of the town ; from the crumbling " loess " 
 and alkaline nature of the soil, they sweep in 
 blinding clouds over the plain, and are most 
 irritating in their fortnightly recurrence. The air 
 is so intensely bracing and dry, as to unpleasantly 
 aff"ect the skin. 
 
 The first thing to do is to grasp the topography 
 of the Celestial Metropolis, with its city within 
 
The Celestial City. 249 
 
 city, and wall within wall. We return to the Gate 
 of Sublime Learning, and ascend by it on to the 
 great Tartar Wall. 
 
 Peking is spread out at our feet. We can trace 
 out the four Walls, each containing a separate 
 town. The outer and lower ramparts surround 
 the Chinese city. The next exclude the abodes 
 of the conquered from those of the Conqueror. 
 Here upon the higher ground were assigned, two 
 hundred and fifty years ago, spacious residences 
 for the Tartar Bannermen. Within the Tartar 
 town again, and surrounded by its defenders, is the 
 Imperial city, and enclosed again, securely inside 
 this, with further . moats and guard-houses, is the 
 Wall of the Forbidden City itself 
 
 These Walls are from fifty feet high, to forty and 
 sixty feet wide. They are built on massive stone 
 ■ foundations, but the walls themselves are of brick, 
 filled in with mud. How have these common black 
 bricks survived the crumbling of ages ? But, 
 except where the base has been marauded for the 
 sake of the yellow clay of the mortar, they are as 
 solid as the day they were constructed. At 
 intervals of three hundred yards there are massive 
 flying buttresses, and a crenellated parapet crowiis 
 the summit. They are pierced with many gate- 
 ways, for there are nine to the Tartar city, and 
 eight for the Chinese. Each gate is surmounted 
 by a square tower of many storeys, loopholed for 
 
250 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 archers and musketeers, and with quaint heavy 
 black roofs, decorated often in gay colours. 
 
 Poetical names mark these Gates, such as " The 
 Eastern Straight Gate," " The Gate of Peace and 
 Tranquillity," " Of Attained Victory," " The Gate 
 of Just Law," " The Western and Eastern Gate of 
 Expediency." These vast fortifications extend for 
 twenty miles, and enclose an area of twenty-five 
 square miles. They are all that you see from 
 whichever side you approach the city, for they are 
 loftier than the loftiest interior pagoda or tower. 
 They are the most impressive and venerable 
 sight, and alone would be worth coming to see. 
 
 We are walking on the top of this Wall of the 
 Tartar city — over the ancient grass-groyvn pave- 
 ment — commanding a splendid view of the 
 Chinese capital, in the early morning' light. The 
 pale grey haze over the Western Mountains points 
 the direction where lie the ruins of that beautiful 
 Summer Palace, magnificent even in its decaying 
 fragments, standing for ever as a reproach to the 
 allies, but fit judgment on the barbarous cruelty 
 of a civilized nation. From this bird's-eye view, 
 Peking appears so buried in trees, that it is hard 
 to believe that its teeming streets, with a popula- 
 tion variously estimated at from 400,000 to 800,000, 
 is immediately below. We are so far above it, 
 that even the street cries and calls come up in a 
 softened murmur. 
 
The Celestial City. 251 
 
 We can distinguish the black roofs of several 
 temples, and the bright green-tiled ones that denote 
 the abode of a Prince of the Blood, called the First 
 or the Tenth Prince, in gradation of propinquity. 
 Over there now the sun is shining and gleaming 
 from the many yellow-tiled roofs of the Imperial 
 palaces of that Forbidden City, where shrouded in 
 mystery, unseen by his people, dwells the Emperor 
 who holds sway over a fourth of the human race. 
 
 For about two miles we walk upon the ramparts, 
 which would make a splendid promenade, turning 
 the corner of the square by the Eastern Straight 
 Gate, which is beautiful with its pagoda newly- 
 decorated for the recent passage of the Sovereign. 
 The roof is formed of dark crenellated tiles, with 
 deep outward curving lines, underneath which is 
 a lovely inlaid mosaic in vivid blue and green tiles, 
 whilst the green bronze dragons with twisted tails 
 are perched in single file along the curving sweep. 
 From point to point of the gracefully arched line, 
 suspend crescent-shaped eyes, that tremble in 
 the breeze. And each of the numerous gates have 
 equally fine pagodas, so that in our wanderings we 
 were always coming back to one of these familiar 
 features. 
 
 But a difficulty occurs. We wish to descend 
 from the wall. There is a ramp ; but at the bottom 
 a locked and spiked gate. We call for a ladder, 
 without result. Pulled by the guide, pushed from 
 
252 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 below, we scramble up and over a nine-foot wall. 
 It was not dignified, and the crowd was amused at 
 our quandary. 
 
 We are making our way towards the Tower 
 which leans against the City Wall, belonging to 
 the observatory. 
 
 We pass into a shady courtyard to gaze upon 
 the very instruments whereat Marco Polo 
 wondered in his famous travels. There are two 
 planispheres, an Astrolabe of great size, cast in 
 bronze, and supported on twisted dragons of ex- 
 quisite workmanship, and which are probably the 
 best specimens of bronze work in Eastern Asia. 
 Ascending up some damp stone steps, we find our- 
 selves on the top of the Tower, and inside a finely- 
 wrought iron railing, where there is a gigantic Globe 
 of the Heavens, with the planets yet marked in re- 
 lief on the surface. Also a quadrant, sextant, 
 and sundial ; while the large Azimuth instrument 
 in the corner was a present to the Emperor 
 Kanghai from Louis XIV. 
 
 And these instruments are as perfect as they 
 were when placed here 300 years ago. Indeed, 
 sonie of these are still used by the Astronomical 
 Board for their observations. It brings home to 
 us the fact that we must never ignore for a 
 moment, whilst living in China, that in the earliest 
 centuries she was far ahead in civilization of any 
 country in the world. But while the West has 
 
The Celestial City. 253 
 
 gone rapidly onward, overtaking and outstripping 
 the East, China, self-contained and shut off from 
 contact with all other nations, has remained 
 stationary, so that much we see around us dates 
 from that era. The Chinese are under the im- 
 pression that there is no nation equal to theirs. 
 They suppose themselves the centre of civilization 
 for the last 2000 years, and claim that China knew 
 the art of printing, invented gunpowder, and was 
 learned in astronomy, long before us. They con- 
 sider that China is the middle of the Universe, as is 
 shown by the name, which, in their language, 
 signifies " The Middle Kingdom." They look 
 upon themselves as superior to us, as we think 
 ourselves to them, calling us Barbarians, and con- 
 sidering all European nations as such. As. a 
 nation they never travel, and are down-trodden 
 by the conservatism of the Mandarins, who, risen 
 from the people, wish to retain their superiority by 
 keeping the lower classes under. 
 
 The real interest of Peking lies in its intense age. 
 The city is 4000 years old. Conquered' by the 
 Mongols, or the " Golden Horde," who, in their 
 turn were overthrown by the Tartars, Peking of the 
 present day is built, like Rome, upon the ruins of 
 many cities. The description of the famous 
 Venetian traveller is as true to-day as it was when 
 written in the thirteenth century. It is in this 
 wondrously preserved life of the middle ages that 
 
254 Newfotmdland to Cochin China. 
 
 the curiosity remains ; it is because we see the 
 streets under their primitive conditions of dirt, 
 before ideas of sanitation were dreamt of, because 
 we can look on the carts that were in use at a 
 period corresponding with our conquest by the 
 Norman — on the wheelbarrows with the single 
 wheel, which creaks as loudly now as it did then, 
 on the wells with their Eastern earthenware jars, 
 and the water drawn as in the pictures of Isaac and 
 Rebecca — on those great Walls, then necessary for 
 protection from the wild hordes that scoured the 
 plains, and where the gates are still closed, in ac- 
 cordance with the ancient custom, at sundown. It 
 is all the same. We might have fallen into a Rip 
 Van Winkle sleep at Tientsin, and awoke in the 
 streets of the Celestial Capital in the middle of the 
 dark ages. 
 
 There is one thing which impresses itself in- 
 delibly on the mind, and is called to remembrance 
 with the first mention of Peking. It is the dirt ! 
 the dirt ! the dirt ! 
 
 It is impossible to conceive of such awful filth, 
 and, unless you have seen it, I defy anyone to have 
 the faintest idea of the sights and smells of this city 
 of the Flowery Land. The condition of the streets 
 is the same as it was B.C. If they were described 
 faithfully and in detail, common decencies would 
 be violated, even as they are but too openly. Let 
 
The Celestial City. 255 
 
 it suffice to say that they reek with refuse, garbage, 
 and decaying matter of every description ; that 
 the houses throw out into dry pits, dug anywhere 
 in the road, their pig's wash and offal, and that the 
 putrefaction and decay fills the air with noisome 
 smells that overpower you at every turn. Filth and 
 refuse you soon grow hardened to in Peking, but 
 occasionally some particularly nauseous sight, such 
 as a dead dog in a far advanced stage of decompo- 
 sition, or a cat with the entrails protruding, un- 
 nerves you again. 
 
 Wherever there is water you may be sure that it 
 is a stagnant pool of liquid filth, covered with green 
 slime, and containing untold horrors if stirred up. 
 Also, if you pass down even the comparatively 
 clean Legation Street, in the wake of the watering- 
 cart, the stench from the stirred-up dust is unbear- 
 able. Men are seen going along with baskets on 
 their backs, carefully collecting with a bamboo 
 pronged fork every morsel of manure, for this is 
 the only kind that the Chinese use, chemical 
 fertilizers being unknown. Fortunately, too, there 
 are hundreds of pariah dogs, many evil-looking 
 beasts, who, with their sharp noses, are busy turn- 
 ing over the most unsavoury heaps, or lie asleep 
 gorged in the middle of the narrow roads. Also 
 the pigs, great coarse-haired masses of fat (the 
 Chinese pig is a peculiarly revolting species) 
 
256 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 wallowing in the foul slush. Enough! In every 
 place and corner are revolting sights, unfit for a 
 civilized community. 
 
 Then there is the dust. It adds to the un- 
 pleasantness of going about. Such dust as it is, 
 all-pervading, all-penetrating, leaving a pungent 
 smell in your clothes, so that I soon found out 
 that it is necessary to keep a special costume to 
 face it. Once outside the Compound, you find 
 yourself in the jostle and crowd, the shouts and 
 disorder of the streets, and as a cart or horseman 
 passes, a cloud is raised that obscures everything 
 for the moment ; and so it is that, for half the 
 time you are out you see nothing for the dust, 
 and for the other half only through a dim veil 
 of the same. At sundown the state of affairs is 
 made worse by the succession of mules, pur- 
 posely loosened to roll over and over. 
 
 Lastly there is the incredible state of the roads, 
 with their deep holes in the very middle of the 
 busiest thoroughfares, with huge stones lying 
 across, or a steep embankment, round which you 
 must diverge. There is this excuse, that the 
 soil, owing to its light and porous nature, aided 
 by the extreme dryness of many months of the 
 year, easily shifts with the wind. If the dust is 
 intolerable, what must it be in winter, when it 
 is turned into a quagmire of black mud or 
 sludge ? It is no uncommon thing for a mule to be 
 
The Celestial City. 257 
 
 drowned in the streets. He falls into this soft 
 morass and, unable to get a footing, perishes within 
 sight of the bystanders. 
 
 There is yet another and a more unpleasant 
 drawback to be met with, in going about the 
 streets of Peking. The Chinese, but particularly 
 the Tartar and Manchu part of the popula- 
 tion, dislike Europeans, and openly insult 
 us as we pass along, jeering and laughing in a 
 most offensive manner, and obviously making the 
 rudest observations. Even the little children 
 come out and call us foul names, of which Bar- 
 barian and Foreign or Red-Haired Devils are the 
 mildest terms— language which they must have 
 become familiar with by hearing it used by their 
 parents. There are several places where Euro- 
 peans are almost invariably stoned, and public 
 feeling has been intensified by these late unfor- 
 tunate riots on the Yangtze. 
 
 In the afternoon we go into the Chinese town, 
 passing through the great Chien-men or Front 
 Gate. Inside this there is a large blank square, 
 formed by the meeting walls of the Chinese and 
 Tartar cities, which are pierced by four arch- 
 ways. The centre entrance is only opened and 
 used by the Emperor on the occasion of his 
 yearly visit to the Temple of Heaven. But 
 through the others that connect the towns, 
 there is a constant moving, hurrying crush of 
 
 S 
 
258 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 people, the two streams meeting and blocking in 
 the arch. 
 
 We lift up and pass under some black draperies 
 and find ourselves in the Chinese bazaar — in a 
 passage one yard wide and completely covered in. 
 The shops are a succession of rooms, raised on 
 a step from the earth passage and all open in 
 front, where you can buy fancy articles and arti- 
 ficial flowers. There are the pretty jade pins, 
 which form the centre for the shiny coil of hair 
 worn by the Chinese women, long earrings and 
 bracelets of the same, mandarin buttons in 
 coloured stones, clocks, porcelain, shoes, and silk 
 embroideries. It is the quaintest and prettiest of 
 Eastern arcades, with the afternoon sun pene- 
 trating the bamboo blinds in shafts of light, 
 lighting the picturesque groups of buyers and 
 sellefs squatted on the floors. The three-foot 
 passage is blocked by a curious crowd, assisting 
 in our purchases. 
 
 We penetrate yet further into the Chinese 
 city, across a stone bridge and through a dan- 
 gerous open square — a meeting of ways — where 
 crates of merchandise, carts drawn by tandem 
 bullocks and mules, palanquins, wheelbarrows 
 with baskets of liquid manure running over, 
 horses and donkeys, are all mingled together, 
 going and coming in different directions. Yes ! 
 Sir Edwin Arnold, you speak truly of 
 
The Celestial City. 259 
 
 " The painted streets alive with hum of words, 
 The traders cross-legged, mid their spice and grain, 
 The buyers with their money in the cloth, 
 The war of words to cheapen this or that, 
 The shout to clear the road, the huge stone wheels, 
 The strong slow oxen and their rustling loads, 
 The singing bearers with their palanquins, 
 The broad-necked himals sweating in the sun." 
 
 Then we go up a narrow street, tortuous and 
 dirty, to another bazaar where there are nothing 
 but lantern, fan, and picture shops. 
 
 Half an hour in these streets gives you more 
 idea of Chinese life than all the books of travel 
 you may read in a life-time. 
 
 Peking beggars description, still let me try to 
 give some idea of what we see. 
 
 Here we are in a narrow lane. This is the 
 aristocratic quarter where the mandarins and 
 officials live. There are a succession of mud- 
 plastered walls, roofed at the top and presenting 
 an absolutely blind appearance to the road, which, 
 when combined with the always dilapidated con- 
 dition of the latter, gives the most deserted and 
 squalid impression. Opposite the entrance are 
 hung tablets, indicating the offices and titles of 
 the householder. They are on a blank wall, for 
 you must observe that the entrance into a Chinese 
 house is never straight. It always winds, and this 
 is supposed to be a defence against the incursion 
 of evil spirits, for the latter' can happily only go 
 straight. For the same reason we see the little 
 
 S 2 
 
26o Newfoundland tn Cochin China. 
 
 children wearing tiieir pig-tails plaited at the side of 
 the head, so that the evil spirit, not finding anything 
 to grip at the back, is unable to catch hold of them. 
 In the houses of poor people, who cannot afford 
 such elaborate precautions, there is always a mud 
 screen erected in front of the door. Let us go 
 inside. We find ourselves in a succession of 
 courts, surrounded by low buildings, where a 
 family and its branches reside, to the number some- 
 times of 200 persons. There are separate build- 
 ings for the cooking, eating, sleeping, and living, 
 but the family all live together. As our " boy " 
 said, when we inquired about these houses, 
 " Family man live there." Truly one, indeed. 
 Yet there is something to be admired about this 
 family life, this care of aged parents and luckless 
 relations. 
 
 The streets with shops, present the most wonder- 
 ful vista of untidy ends of tattered rags flying 
 from poles, of dingy decorations of strips of paper 
 or cloth hanging over the doorways. The houses 
 have a mean appearance, being only of one story, 
 and their walls, unless they are of mud, consist of 
 carved wood openwork, covered in with tattered 
 yellow paper. I think I may truly say that I never 
 saw one, where the paper was not torn and dis- 
 coloured. Occasionally you come upon a shop, 
 bright with the names of the goods written in gold 
 and scarlet or green. They were originally all 
 
The Celestial City. 
 
 261 
 
 like this, and this one is only recently finished, 
 yet in a few months will become as dull and dirty 
 as the rest. Everything is allowed to run to decay. 
 The Chinese never seem to think it necessary to 
 
 A street in Peking. 
 
 repair or re-decorat?, and the climate powerfully 
 aids in this destruction. 
 
 In many of the streets, the road is raised on an 
 embankment of loose dust, and then bordered by 
 an empty space, where the garbage of the dwelling- 
 
262 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 house is increased by the refuse from the various 
 trades pursued in it, and which is thrown out in- 
 discriminately to fester and decay in the hot sun, 
 or it is occupied by cheap-jacks who lay their 
 goods in the dust, hawking and crying their wares. 
 Here are rows of lanterns with a primitive wooden 
 receptacle for the lamp, filled in with opaque 
 paper, and frequent watch-houses, whence the 
 watchmen patrol the city at night with the mufifled 
 beat of a gong. 
 
 The life in these streets, straggling, ill-compacted, 
 and grimy as they are, is yet full of vivid interest. 
 Not that these open shop fronts, or gi-imy pig-tailed 
 men, can compare with the fascinating life of a 
 dear little Japanese street. Here is a tea-house, 
 with the distinguishing sign of ornamental green 
 and gold wooden drums outside, and inside a 
 crowd sitting cross-legged on benches, each with 
 a bowl and chopsticks held within an inch of 
 his nose, shovelling his food rapidly into his 
 mouth. There a man with rows of little black 
 balls spread out before his shop ; he is a coal 
 merchant, and these balls are made of clay mixed 
 with coal dust — a most economical method of 
 firing. That house in the middle with glazed 
 windows is a bank, and whenever we see a parti- 
 cularly bright exterior, we may be sure that it 
 belongs to a pawnbroker, for he does a large busi- 
 ness, the Chinese being ever ready to pawn their all 
 
The Celestial City. 263 
 
 for a good gamble or perhaps a whiff of ppium, as 
 some unfortunates at home will do for a last drink. 
 There is a man squatted on the ground, shaking 
 some sticks in a bamboo-holder. He is largely 
 patronized, men coming and going and choosing 
 out a stick and putting it back with either a pleasing 
 or dissatisfied look. He is a fortune-teller. Or 
 there is a group intent on a game of hazard^ when 
 the stakes in question are a few cash. Yes ! these 
 Chinese are certainly inveterate gamblers, and 
 would gamble their food, their clothing, anything 
 away. Or it is a juggler with a simple apparatus 
 giving a street performance, and many of our best 
 tricks are, as we see, borrowed from the Chinese 
 conjuror. 
 
 Then the coffin shops, piled high with those 
 ponderous sarcophagi hewn out of a single tree- 
 trunk, so thick, so substantial, warranted to last 
 for generations, and there is no sending for one in 
 a hurry, for generally the coffin has been waiting 
 in the house for years for its occupant. The 
 funeral furnishers also do a thriving business, for 
 we see many of them, hung inside with the green 
 paraphernalia, the lanterns, carrying pagodas and 
 poles that make up such an imposing procession. 
 So do the wedding contractors, which we distinguish 
 from the undertakers by their red decorations. 
 
 Then there are the carpenters and ironmongers, 
 the blacksmiths and the book-shops, the laundries 
 
264 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 and the barbers, and those of other trades, all of 
 which are easily distinguished at a glance, in 
 the open shops, where the work is carried on 
 within view of the world, adding tenfold to the 
 interest of the streets. The travelling cobbler is 
 frequently seated at the corner of a thoroughfare, 
 repairing the soft felt soles of the Chinese shoes. 
 The itinerant musician is seen under an awning 
 with his book and drum, singing to an attentive 
 audience seated round a table. In all these shops, 
 there is a whirligig round which an incense-burning 
 tube is smouldering, and which marks the flight of 
 time. Watch this shopman give change. He 
 produces often from up his sleeve, or from round 
 his neck, heavy strings of copper " cash." Now as 
 1200 of these go to make up a dollar, the counting 
 of the change is a matter of patience. It is a 
 cumbrous monetary system, but well in keeping 
 with all that is Chinese. 
 
 We are in the midst of a moving scene of life. 
 Here the descendant of the Tartar soldiery carrying 
 a cage of performing birds, or a stick with a 
 chaffinch tied to it. It is the thing perhaps that 
 he values most of all his possessions, and you will 
 often see the Manchu kneeling on the grass, 
 collecting grasshoppers on which to feed his 
 favourite. Very cruel to them also they often are, 
 sewing up their eyes so that they cannot see to 
 escape. There is a soldier in uniform of bright 
 
The Celestial City. 265 
 
 Imperial , yellow bordered with crimson, carrying 
 an antique matchlock with long stock, and a flint 
 in his belt. Soon after another passes on a pony 
 with arquebus and arrows slung across his back, 
 for all Chinese soldiers must, as in the days of 
 Agincourt, be expert archers. 
 
 Here is a caravan of camels bearing loads of tea 
 (and connoisseurs always prefer that which has 
 thus travelled overland, to the tea transported by 
 sea), with their slow, stealthy, deliberate walk, 
 and contemptuous turned-up noses, tied- together 
 by the rope passed through the ring in the nose, 
 attached to the tail of the preceding one. The 
 last of the string has a bell which keeps slow 
 and solemn time with his dignified walk, and the 
 driver does not trouble about the end of the file, 
 unless the stopping of the bell tells him there is 
 something amiss. A flock of sheep are being 
 driven down that walled lane. They are white 
 with black spots, and have the great lumps of fat 
 on their haunches peculiar to the breed of Eastern 
 sheep. If we follow to where they are going, to 
 the butcher's shop, we shall see the disgusting 
 scene presented by a slaughter-house open to the 
 street. The animals will be torn asunder, joint 
 by joint, whilst still warm, with the blood stream- 
 ing, and entrails laid bare. 
 
 A blue palanquin, with many bearers, is being 
 carried along. There is a great mandarin squatted 
 
266 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 inside on the floor, and we can just see the hand- 
 some magnate with his embroidered robes lined 
 with sable, his turned-up velvet hat with the pea- 
 cock's feather stuck out straight behind, the red, 
 blue, or white button on which indicates his rank. 
 He wears the red, and is going to the Yamen or 
 Miniatry. He is preceded by a retinue of 
 mounted servants, who summarily clear the way, 
 with the whip if necessary, and their number 
 announces to the world the rank and importance 
 of their master. Now there gallop past us a 
 party of wild-looking Tartars, veritable barbarians 
 they look, with their yellow faces, short lank hair 
 and fur caps. Comes along next, a wheelbarrow, 
 with the excruciating squeak of the single front 
 wheel, while the merchandise is neatly balanced 
 in baskets on either side. It is a perpetual wonder 
 how they maintain their equilibrium, especially 
 when, as at Shanghai, they are used for passengers, 
 and there is only one seated on the side. 
 
 Now we must make way for this long cart, 
 crowded with passengers, which corresponds to 
 our ominibus ; also for that uncouth-looking 
 waggon, with its piebald team of a single pony in 
 the shafts, with a troika of two donkeys and a 
 mule roped in front. Again and again these 
 curiously mixed teams excite our mirth, the 
 wheeler being often the smaller animal of the 
 whole. 'Then there is the never-ceasing stream of 
 
The Celestial City. 267 
 
 those blue and black covered carts, of which we 
 retain such a lively horror since our journey from 
 Tungchau, and out of many, jeer the Chinese ladies, 
 looking with scorn at the " Barbarian's wife " 
 riding a donkey, whilst they are boxed up safely 
 inside, with a curtain in front, and guarded by an 
 armah (or maid) seated on the shafts. 
 
 Add to all these sights, crowds of donkeys, 
 small and wiry, with their padded saddles on a 
 wooden frame, with a bulging Chinaman with 
 swinging pigtail seated far back, and with his 
 legs tucked up, trotting along — of horsemen on 
 rough Tartar ponies, generally white in colour, and 
 which run along at a great pace, so that there is 
 no rising in the saddle, and lastly the mules, a 
 beautiful breed, large and strong, with glossy 
 coats, cruelly bitted, with a double bit and wire 
 over the upper gums. 
 
 We have grown so accustomed to John China- 
 man, with his innocent yellow face, so smooth 
 and hairless, — except when as a grandfather he 
 wears a moustache, — his obliquely-slit eyes, and his 
 flowing pigtail, v/ith plaited ends of cord and 
 tassels, that we have ceased to observe him. We 
 are now quite familiar with his baggy pantaloons, 
 which sometimes he binds tightly to the ankle — 
 with his turned-up hat with velvet brim, or eight- 
 sided cap, always with coloured button atop — with 
 his loose blue coat fastened by two buttons on one 
 
268 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 shoulder, with the sleeves hanging long over the 
 hands, and that serve him as pockets. It is 
 beginning to get cold, so that the wadded coats 
 worn in winter are coming into general use. 
 Whilst there is a level monotony of colour in the 
 lower classes, the upper have the most gorgeous 
 brocaded coats of crimson, blue, and purple, with 
 pantaloons of other colours, that combine in pleas- 
 ing effect. Some of the men have the long claw 
 nail, but only on the little finger, in token that 
 they do no manual- labour, and a disgusting sight 
 it is to see this transparent substance of several 
 inches in length, bending backwards and forwards, 
 as they use their hands. 
 
 The pigtail ! What is it for .' What is its origin ? 
 It is simple. The Tartars were few, the Chinese 
 many. Let not the latter see this and be tempted 
 to say : " Arise, drive out the conqueror." Let 
 them shave three-fourths of the head ; let the back 
 hair grow long and braid it into a bridle as is the 
 Tartar custom. The pigtail was intended as a 
 mark of subjection to signify to the Chinese that, 
 even as it resembled a horse's tail, so might they be 
 driven like one, whilst the cuff of the official sleeve 
 to this day is cut into the shape of a horseshoe. 
 
 Such, says tradition, was the Manchu order, and 
 off came at a stroke the heads of the disobedient. 
 Two generations pass, and the Chinese love the 
 pigtail, as they do to-day, and dread the agents of 
 
The Celestial City. 269 
 
 the Secret Society snipping it here and there, as 
 an insult to the Tartar. 
 
 The Chinese ladies are plain. They wear their 
 black hair plastered from a flat parting on- either 
 side of the face, and with bunches of artificial 
 flowers and tinsel stuck in, behind the ear, from 
 which depend long green jade earrings. Others 
 have their hair drawn up over a comb, to form a 
 top knot, rising about four inches above the head. 
 There is yet a still more curious fashion of dress- 
 ing the hair into a plait wired, so as to stand out 
 from the nape of the neck in a stiff curve, just like 
 the tail of a cat. It has a most peculiar appear- 
 ance. Has it ever struck you, when travelling, as 
 it has me, how very nearly all the nations of the 
 world have black hair, the English, Germans and 
 Swedes being nearly the only exceptions .' The 
 Chinese women smear their faces with rouge, 
 beginning by placing one brilliant vermilion spot 
 under the lower lip. They wear the same dress 
 as the men, loose trousers and coats, and their 
 clothes are of the brightest colours — violent greens, 
 blues and purples, richly embroidered in gold or 
 silver tissue, and rainbow tints. They wear 
 many bangles and rings of jade or crystal, and a 
 silver circle round the neck. They too have the 
 long nails, but on all their fingers. We bought 
 some of the pretty silver claws of immense curving 
 length, which they use as shields. 
 
270 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Oh ! to see these poor women totter along, just 
 balancing, ready to fall at every step, with their 
 poor little crippled feet. The weight of a fair- 
 sized woman is supported on a pair of green or 
 
 blue pointed boots, mea- 
 suring not more than four 
 inches in length. If we 
 could look inside, we 
 should find the toes laid 
 flat under the sole of the 
 foot, the great toe meet- 
 ing the heel. From the 
 moment the bandages 
 are put on the children, 
 which is at the age of 
 three or four, they are 
 never removed, however 
 painful the swelling, but 
 drawn tighter and tighter 
 until the deformity is 
 complete. In the upper 
 classes many of the ladies 
 have to be carried or 
 supported on either side by an armah when 
 they walk. And yet they are so proud of their 
 feet, they are such a marriageable commodity, 
 for big feet are sufficient ground, even to-day, 
 for a refusal to proceed with a contract of 
 matrimony, that many are solely deterred from 
 
 Her Ladyship's Foot. 
 
The Celestial City. 271 
 
 adopting Christianity by the obligations, imposed 
 by the missionaries, of ordinary feet. A Chinese 
 mandarin who had studied " England : as she was, 
 and as she is," said to a friend : " You English 
 seem very fond of your Queen — but is it possible 
 that you allow yourselves to be governed by a 
 woman, however good, with big feet ? " 
 
 It is a comfort here, to meet with the larger 
 and handsomer Manchu women, who come from 
 Manchuria in Northern China, and are not thus 
 deformed. We always distinguish these latter by 
 their wonderful head-dress, which consists of a 
 piece of jade, one foot long, and exactly resembling 
 a paper cutter placed across the head to project 
 from ear to ear, and round which the hair is 
 twisted. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE FORBIDDEN CITY. 
 
 Now for some of the sights of Peking. 
 
 A long hour and a half s ride on donkeys from 
 the British Legation, brings us to the vicinity of 
 the great temple of Confucius. 
 
 We find ourselves on a straight, dusty road, 
 with a gateway at the end. It was through that 
 gateway, and down this same road, that the British 
 troops passed, when in i860 they marched into 
 Peking. 
 
 We are frequently seeing painted wooden arch- 
 ways, called Peilaus. These memorial arches are 
 found all over China. They are only erected by 
 express permission of the Emperor, to good and 
 public-spirited persons — to a great man who has 
 given a large sum of money (often solely for this 
 object), or to a widow who has been sufficiently 
 virtuous to remain faithful to her husband's 
 memory. Like everything else, they are generally 
 crumbling or falling crooked. 
 
 The approach to the Temple is through a road 
 
The Forbidden City. 273 
 
 with a succession of blank walls, the temple itself 
 being equally well surrounded. Here we see a 
 man doing penance, shut up in a yellow box, and 
 striking a bell with a wooden lever at intervals. 
 His punishment will last a month, and if we could 
 see inside, very likely the box is lined with spikes 
 or nails, so arranged that they prick the sinner if 
 he changes his position. Sometimes it is a means 
 resorted to to obtain money to build a temple. 
 " Give, oh ! give. 1000/. I must collect before I 
 am released from this cell." 
 
 Foreigners are often refused entrance to the 
 Confucian Temple. We parley, too, through a 
 crack in the door, and are told " No, big man is 
 coming." But as usual, greed, in the shape of 
 the golden key that accomplishes most things, 
 conquers, and amid a rush of dirty on-lookers, 
 who find entrance with us as the gate is opened, 
 we pass inside the court of the temple of the 
 Great Teacher. This court is solemn and silent, 
 neglected and deserted, with its dusky groves of 
 cryptomerias and cooing grey doves. The paved 
 pathway leads up to some steps, that pass on 
 either side of a raised stone slab, covered with 
 ancient hieroglyphics, and embossed dragons with 
 wonderfully twisted tails. In the inner court is 
 the temple itself, with a roof of brilliant yellow 
 tiles, and surrounded by pagodas and smaller 
 halls similarly tiled. 
 
 T 
 
274 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 We ascend to a marble terrace with balustrades. 
 The door of the temple is thrown open, and forth 
 rushes a smell of damp air, and as the gloom 
 dissipates we cross some matting, raising clouds 
 of dust. By degrees the lofty proportions of the 
 massive hall, with its roof of blue and green, sup- 
 ported on colossal teak pillars of wood, painted a 
 dull red, begin to dawn upon us. We see in the 
 centre the shrine to Confucius, a humble red 
 wooden tablet, set on a table, bearing this inscrip- 
 tion : " The Tablet of the Soul of the Most Holy 
 Ancestral Teacher, Confucius." On either side 
 are tablets to the four most distinguished sages, 
 whilst the others, in a lower position, are for the 
 next best celebrated men of the Confucianist 
 school. And this is the Literary Temple in which 
 the Example and Teacher of all Ages, and ten of 
 his great disciples, worshipped. " All is simple, 
 quiet, and cheerless, fit place for contemplation, 
 and suitable for the Great Thought-giver." 
 
 The Emperor comes here twice a year to wor- 
 ship the venerated sage, and every sovereign, in 
 token of veneration, presents a " Tablet of Praise." 
 Each inscription is different, and presents some 
 aspect of his influence ; he is called, " Of all men 
 the Unrivalled," " Equal to Heaven and Earth," and 
 " Example and Teacher of all Ages." In another 
 court are seen the celebrated stone drums. They 
 are ten in number, of grey granite or stone, and 
 
The Forbidden City. 275 
 
 are believed to date from the eighth century B.C., 
 or to be about 2700 years old. The writing on 
 them is in the old Seal character, and. consists of 
 stanzas relating to King Suen's hunting expedi- 
 tions. They are the oldest things in a country 
 where everything is of such antiquity. 
 
 On the opposite side of the court is the Hall of 
 the Triennial Examinations for the highest Literary 
 Degree, the Chinese Doctor of Literature. " In 
 commemoration of each examination, a stone is 
 erected with the names of all the doctors. The 
 oldest are three of the Mongol dynasty, and the 
 Peking University has therefore a complete list 
 for 500 years of its graduates." 
 
 Then we cross over to the Classic Hall, where 
 the Emperor meets the literati and graduates to 
 hear, and sometimes theoretically to pronounce a 
 literary address. In the centre of the court there 
 is a pagoda, crowned with a wonderful gold knob 
 (like a mandarin's button at the top of his hat), 
 and surrounded by an extremely gracefully- 
 wrought marble trellis-work, enclosing a moat of 
 sluggish green water. Opposite to it is a beautiful 
 yellow porcelain arch, in three divisions, inter- 
 woven with green tiles, forming a vivid contrast^ 
 yet blending into a harmonious whole. There 
 are other pagodas, containing those curious 
 memorials, of a pyramidal stone resting on the 
 back of a tortoise. These are, of course, 
 T 2 
 
276 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 also to the memory of distinguished literati. 
 Open sheds surround the court, and inside 
 the black palings, are the benches where the 
 students sit, when the Emperor comes to hear the 
 address delivered, and behind, against the wall, 
 the 300 precious tablets, on which are engraved 
 the authorized texts of the classics, the oldest 
 remains of ancient Chinese literature. Plenty of 
 other temples for ordinary worshippers we see, 
 and always know them by the two poles outside, 
 with gold knobs on the top. 
 
 We return to the city down a road which leads 
 past the Drum and Bell towers, great pagoda- 
 like structures, pierced by solid archways on each 
 side, standing near together, both 100 feet high. 
 The drum is sounded at every hour through the 
 long night watches, and can be heard all over the 
 city. A clepsdra is still kept to mark the time, a 
 good instance of Chinese conservatism. Near 
 here is the temple where Sir Harry Parkes and Sir 
 Henry Loch were confined for the latter part of 
 the time they were prisoners in Peking. Until 
 recently their names could still be seen written on 
 the wall, which, however, has lately been white- 
 washed, perhaps purposely. Just before turning 
 into the Meishan we catch a glimpse, in the far 
 distance, of the beautiful Marble Bridge, spanning 
 a lake filled with lotus. " Standing on this bridge,, 
 one overlooks a great part of the Imperial palace. 
 
The Forbidden City. 277 
 
 The banks of the lake are studded with castles, 
 temples, and gardens," but this, alas ! like so much 
 else in Peking, is closed to foreigners. 
 
 We now pass into the Imperial City, which is 
 guarded within a wall seven miles in length, and 
 go down a straight road raised in the centre, the 
 sandy waste between it and the shops being in 
 possession of cheap-Jacks and old-clothes' men. 
 This road is in wonderful repair. The Emperor has 
 recently passed over it, and the lanterns are freshly 
 papered and water-butts are set ready at intervals. 
 Thus the sovereign remains ignorant of the usual 
 state of the roads, and knows nothing of the mis- 
 application of public funds. The governor of the 
 city or of the provinces is responsible for the con- 
 dition of the roads, but were His Majesty to elect 
 to make frequent journeys, the " squeezes " of the 
 mandarins would be ruinous. 
 
 The Chinese legal and moral code is of the 
 highest — on paper — but in practice there is a 
 system of " squeeze," which rules through the 
 length and breadth of the land ; which pervades 
 all business dealings, and every department of the 
 government, undermining the integrity of the 
 country. Everybody must have his " squeeze " 
 out of every transaction. The Viceroy " squeezes "; 
 the Governor "squeezes "; the judge, the taotai, 
 the smaller mandarins " squeeze " ; for so they 
 live. The pay is little or nothing. The office is 
 
278 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 valuable in proportion to its power to " squeeze." 
 Our " boy " squeezes us, and back again there is a 
 " squeezissima " within the Ro5'al City itself. 
 
 And now yv^e stand under the walls of the For- 
 bidden City. They are covered with Imperial 
 yellow tiles, a deep moat surrounds them, and 
 
 All that is seen of the Forbidden City. 
 
 they are guarded by bannermen. There are but 
 two entrances. There, straight before us is the 
 Coal Hill, surmounted by a pavilion, within which 
 the last of the Ming dynasty terminated the 
 life of himself and his Imperial house, when 
 the victories of the Tartar invader, the capture of 
 the capital, the submission of the provinces, were 
 completed. It is an artificial mound, 150 feet 
 
The Forbidden City. 279 
 
 high, and as we proceed round the square of the 
 walls, we see behind, amid the woods, the five 
 summits, crowned with the five gleaming roofs of 
 peacock blue, green and yellow of the pavilions 
 and temples of the Prohibited City. Within its 
 walls are a park and lake. 
 
 Little else is to be seen beyond the upper walls 
 and the yellow roofs of the palaces. There are 
 many of them, none apparently of great size. 
 But in the centre hall is seated Kw.ang-Su, " The 
 Son of Heaven," " The Lord of ten thousand 
 years." The youth of twenty-two, who in his 
 sixth year, upon " His Majesty the Emperor 
 Tung-che suddenly ascending upon the Dragon 
 to be a guest on high,^' was called unexpectedly, 
 like our own Queen Victoria, from his bed in a 
 distant part of the city to be saluted, in default of 
 a direct heir, as Emperor of China. Is he the 
 happier ? The Imperial life must be dull and 
 monotonous beyond bearing for one so young. 
 In the Forbidden City his Majesty must find all 
 his distractions. To go into the provinces would 
 thrice beggar the exchequer. 
 
 There is the Hall of Highest Peace, where his 
 Majesty gave rare audience to the representa- 
 tives of foreign powers. Once only ! and what 
 negotiations it took to bring about ! At length, 
 yes ! the Son of Heaven would let the envoys of 
 the outer world look on him. But they must 
 
28o Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 " kotow " thrice on their knees, touch the ground 
 with their foreheads, and let the Chinese people 
 take it as the bearing of tribute. No, the British 
 Lion, and the eagles of Monarchs and Republics, 
 cannot bend the knee. The point is carried at 
 length. " But,'' says the Council of State, " it is 
 only in that outer pavilion that our Lord Buddha 
 will greet you." 
 
 The trained consuls report that this again is a 
 mark of contempt, and must not be allowed. A more 
 fitting place is decided upon. Then shall the 
 Prince Ching present the letters of credit of the 
 foreign envoys on his knees ? No, that cannot be 
 suffered either. Hand to hand must be the com- 
 munication of monarch with monarch. 
 
 At length all was arranged. Their Excellencies 
 in stars and orders, repair to the palace with their 
 staffs. A long wait, with sweetmeats served, and 
 then the audience. 
 
 The German minister, as the senior, reads a short 
 address, and the envoys are named. Prince Ching 
 takes their several letters of credit, and places them 
 before the Son of Heaven. He kneels, and the 
 Imperial youth speaks low a few words. 
 
 The president of the Tsung Li Yimen goes to 
 the ministers, and repeats them. The audience is 
 over — the spell is broken. But even now our old 
 friend the Austrian minister, Baron Biegeleben, is 
 finding great difficulty in arranging for the fitting 
 
The Forbidden City. 281 
 
 reception of his Imperial and Apostolic Majesty's 
 Commission. 
 
 It is time this nonsense ceased. If China is 
 within the pale of nations, she must do as other 
 nations do. If she is not within the roll of civilized 
 States, she must be dealt with differently. Of two 
 things, one ! 
 
 Here is the Hall of Central Peace, where the 
 Emperor examines and sanctions the prayers for 
 state worship ; the Hall of Secure Peace, where the 
 highest literary degrees are conferred ; and the 
 palace of Heavenly Purity, where the Emperor in 
 the still morning hour of three, transacts business 
 with his ministers, and which no one enters or leaves 
 without his express permission. 
 
 Here at sunrise, the petitions from the six 
 Boards controlHng Imperial affairs are submitted 
 to the Vermilion Pencil of the Throne ; the prayers 
 also for present and posthumous honours. 
 
 Beyond stands the palace of Earth's Repose, 
 where " Heaven's Consort" rules over her minia- 
 ture court. Adjoining this is a flower garden. 
 Then the Hall of Intense Thought ; where sacri- 
 fices are made to Confucius, the teacher and 
 thinker. There are other palaces and offices, 
 amongst them a printing ofifice, for the city is self- 
 contained and need have no communication with 
 the outer world. No one knows the population 
 inside this Prohibited City, whether it is great or 
 
282 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 small. It is wrapped in mystery, and the imagi- 
 nation is free to iloat round the holy of holies, this 
 Unknown Capital of the Flowery Land. 
 
 There are said to be beautiful gardens, with 
 fountains and cascades. But what can make up 
 for the want of variety ? Occasionally " the Son 
 of Heaven " goes forth to worship the ashes of his 
 ancestors, or the earth and the moon, at this or that 
 temple. 
 
 Then the way is cleared of all persons — and 
 matting is put up on either side of the roadway to 
 prevent the Celestial eyes falling on the people, or 
 the people from seeing their sovereign. The 
 foreign ministers are required to warn their 
 nationals to keep away from the neighbourhood. 
 
 Unfortunate Majesty ! How the young Empe- 
 ror must yearn for some knowledge and experience 
 of the outer world, something more than the views 
 of the aged mandarins around him, to guide him 
 in his decisions. Small wonder that he should 
 reject the suggestion recently made of the censor 
 (who is permitted even to rebuke the throne), 
 that for some hours in each day he should, in 
 addition, have the ancient classics read to him. 
 They say that his youthful Majesty is not wanting 
 in intelligence and ability, and it is even whispered 
 that some of the rescripts of the Imperial Gazette 
 of Peking issue from his own hand. Perhaps too 
 he may look wistfully towards the mausolea being 
 
The Forbidden City. 283 
 
 prepared for the Empresses-Dowager, and wonder 
 if they will prove true to their names : " Happy 
 Homes for a myriad years." 
 
 We meet a wedding procession as we proceed ; 
 indeed, we are constantly getting mixed up in 
 these straggling processions, for both yesterday 
 and to-day the horoscope has cast as lucky, and 
 they have perhaps been long waited for. The one 
 is the Fete of the God of Wealth and the Golden 
 Dragon King ; the other of the God of Fire and 
 the Inventor of Writing. Everything is scarlet. 
 First come the bannermen, bearing aloft on 
 poles red boards, on which are inscribed the 
 titles of the father of the bride. They are gene- 
 rally a string of dirty men and boys, the scum of 
 the city, dressed in scarlet, with black hats and 
 feathers sticking up like a Red Indian. More men 
 follow, carrying lanterns and draped pagodas, 
 and a cage with white ducks, an emblem of 
 conjugal fidelity. Next comes the band, with 
 enormous drums, draped in red and yellow silk, 
 and ludicrous gilt trombones, which the musician 
 puffs valiantly into, only to produce a sound like 
 the wheeze of a bagpipe. Lastly comes the closed 
 palanquin, richly gilt and embroidered, followed 
 by another containing the parents. It is the day 
 of triumph for the almond-eyed one with the little 
 feet, within the closely-curtained vermilion palan- 
 quin. With blare of trumpets and songs of joy 
 
284 Nezvfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 she is borne through the streets, securely locked, 
 to the bridegroom's house, where the mother 
 delivers her up with the key of the chair, to the 
 husband, to whom in childhood's innocent hours 
 she was affianced. 
 
 All day we are passing houses, outside which 
 are lanterns on red poles, arranged in a square, 
 with archways and decorations, and waiting 
 palanquins and carts, whilst the feast is pro- 
 ceeding inside. In the afternoon we see several 
 whence the guests are streaming away from the 
 festivity, the ladies of small feet being carried 
 by their attendants to their palanquins. It is 
 the prerogative of every poor relation and con- 
 nection to attend this feast, and often the parents 
 can ill afford such an expense ; still, it must be 
 done, or " face " will be lost. Like the " squeeze," 
 this " face," or prestige, is another prominent 
 feature of Chinese life. It is as pronounced as the 
 caste difficulty in India, and pervades every detail 
 of life. The most roundabout methods and trans- 
 parent deceits are resorted to, to save a man's 
 "face," viz. his credit, or renown. 
 
 A funeral is an equally elaborate ceremony. 
 We saw preparations for one in a village, coming 
 up the Peiho. Outside the deceased's house were 
 erected straw archways, whilst a catafalque of 
 enormous dimensions was waiting at the door. 
 As we watched, a life-sized wooden horse, with a 
 
The Forbidden City. 285 
 
 sham rider, arrived, drawn on a board, to figure in 
 the procession.. The mourners will all wear white, 
 and as many as sixty-four men will aid in carrying 
 the coiifin to its resting-place. Food and money will 
 be oiifered to the evil spirits to propitiate them, and 
 every care taken that the spirit of the deceased 
 shall rest in peace. 
 
 Then the tablet will be placed in the family 
 memorial chamber, and sons and grandsons, and 
 great granddaughters and their children, will come 
 in the ages of the future, to tell the spirit of the 
 departed, of the marriage, of the illness, of the 
 promotion, or the fall of a descendant. It may be, 
 too, that a future scion of the house may render 
 service to the State — be made a Viceroy, a Presi- 
 dent of a Board, a Member of the Grand Council. 
 Will his Imperial Master reward him with title to 
 descend in a few months to an unworthy son ? No, 
 the peerage, the honour, will be posthumously 
 rendered by decree of the emperor to the ancestor, 
 be so notified in the Peking Gazette, and, amid a 
 gathering of all kindred, be heralded unto the great 
 Unknown in the Memorial Hall. " Great is the son 
 who bringeth his father honour." 
 » For this ancestor-worship seems to be the only 
 religion which the people practise. Some are Con- 
 fucians, some Buddhists, some Taoists, but they 
 are held as only moral and perfunctory faiths, 
 whereas this worship of the dead is very real to 
 
286 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 them, and faithfully performed. They do right, 
 because they fear to disturb the spirits of their 
 forefathers, who will haunt their homes and cause 
 evil to fall on their families, if they do wrong. 
 
 We return home by an even dirtier and more 
 slovenly road, past the various Yimens of the 
 Board of Works, the Board of War, and the Navy, 
 and the Board of Punishments, which obtained 
 such a bad notoriety for the cruelties perpetrated 
 in i860. There is nothing, however, to see from 
 outside, but an archway leading to several courts. 
 
 We spent the afternoon in visiting the various 
 Missionary Establishments of the different nation- 
 alities, which have their headquarters at Peking. 
 First to the spacious compound of the American 
 Methodist Episcopal Church, where we saw the 
 boys' and girls' school, the sleeping apartments 
 and dining halls, for they feed and house, but do 
 not clothe them. Their method is to admit the 
 scholars and give them a Christian education, with 
 good influences, without, however, obliging them 
 to become Christians. But whether the writing 
 of essays in English, and the teaching of the 
 piano to girls, is conducive to or comes under 
 the head of missionary work, I am not competent 
 to judge. I should think it better if the teachers 
 were to learn Chinese, and teach the children in 
 their own language, a knowledge of English not 
 being essential to their becoming Christians. 
 
The Forbidden City. 287 
 
 Next we visited a branch of the French Roman 
 Catholic Mission, which, under the able leadership 
 of Pere Favier, has done much good work. The 
 school with its day scholar's enclosure, lies under 
 the beautiful Roman Catholic Church, with its 
 twin pinnacles and splendid interior, the altar 
 being inlaid with cloisonne. The organ was 
 bought with the proceeds of the sale of a valuable 
 carpet that came into the hands of the Fathers. 
 The cathedral and bishop are at Peitang on the 
 other side of the city. Since the early days of the 
 Jesuit Fathers, the Roman Catholics have always 
 been active in China. They claim to have 700,000 
 converts. Their success, in comparison with other 
 sects, may perhaps be attributed to the fact, that 
 their ritual and gaily decorated churches are more 
 attractive, and in accordance with the Buddhist 
 religion and temples ; but it must also be said, 
 that the priests go amongst the people, adopt their 
 life, and wear Chinese clothes, including the pig- 
 tail. Aided by the nuns, they minister to the 
 temporal wants of the population, as well as the 
 spiritual. Also these priests, when they leave 
 France, come out for life and receive only 100 
 taels, or 20/. a year, whilst the American 
 missionaries are reputed ro receive 100 taels a 
 month, and 200 taels a year for every child. 
 Perhaps this may account for their numerous 
 families. The S.P.G. Branch of mission work 
 
288 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 under Bishop Scott boasts^ alas ! few converts in 
 their schools, but as they are thorough^ and refuse 
 to have any suspicion of " rice Christians," as the 
 doubtful converts are called, this can be accounted 
 for. The London Mission does good work, but 
 perhaps the most successful of all is the China 
 Inland Mission, owing its existence to its north- 
 country founder — Hudson Taylor — a man un- 
 known to great fame, but who has done, and is doing 
 a great work in this far-distant corner of the world. 
 
 We expected to hear a great deal about these 
 late riots at Wuhu, or Wusueh, when we came 
 to Peking. We had read the alarming articles in 
 the North China Daily News of the excited state 
 of the country, the imminent dangers hanging 
 over the European population at the Treaty Ports, 
 and of the arming of the British Legation here. 
 We are almost disappointed to find a serene at- 
 mosphere of safety. 
 
 There are some who are found to attribute the 
 pretext for the commencement of these riots to 
 the Roman Catholic nuns, who by succouring 
 the foundlings, especially the despised females, 
 to: educate in their convent schools, arouse 
 the suspicion of kidnapping them for the pur- 
 poses of witchcraft. The mortality being high, 
 they are even accused of taking out the eyes of 
 children to make an elixir of life, and of other 
 atrocities. The same charge brought about the 
 
The Forbidden City. 289 
 
 dreadful massacre of Tientsin in 1870. More 
 probably, however, this is only an excuse for a 
 rising, which is really fomented by one of those 
 secret societies, like the Kalao Hui, which honey- 
 comb China. 
 
 Peking is celebrated for its furs, particularly for 
 sables. London is the great market of the world, 
 receiving the supplies of the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany and Canada, but whenever an emperor or 
 prince or great noble in Russia requires a fur, it is 
 to Peking that they send. The sables are won- 
 derfully cheap, only costing from 6 to 8 dollars 
 each, but, owing to a difference of treatment in 
 smoking, they are not so dark as those we call 
 Russian sables. They have also a good many 
 white hairs. There are squirrel skins of soft, 
 brown fur, thousands being sewn together to form 
 a single coat. Then there are black and white 
 astrakans, beaver, and otter, and that lovely, silky 
 white fur, the wool of the Thibet sheep. We were 
 offered a mandarin's sable robe, perhaps a booty 
 from the looting of the Summer Palace, for 300 
 dollars, and I think we shall always regret that 
 we did not invest in it as an heirloom. 
 
 We came out of the Legation Hall one morn- 
 ing, to find a picturesque sight of curio dealers 
 squatted beside their blue bundles, or spreading 
 their bright-coloured embroideries, under the open 
 pagoda porches of this princely palace. 
 
 U 
 
290 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 Peking is known for the antiquity and splendour 
 of its embroideries, — the best in China ; but I can- 
 not fancy golden dragons on cerise satin grounds, 
 or pink flowers on an ultramarine blue, nor yet all 
 the flaming purples, crimsons and oranges (the 
 Imperial yellow alone being beautiful), after the 
 delicate half-tones, and pale tints of the Japanese 
 embroideries. It is always the same in China. 
 Everything is ugly, the colouring and designs 
 hideous. They are grotesque and not quaint, 
 gaudy and not brilliant. And we have visited 
 many curio shops, only to leave them- in despair. 
 The single beautiful things are the objets de vertu in 
 jade and crystal, tiny cups and vases, snuff bottles, 
 carved images, all so delicately wrought, but 
 charged for as if worth their weight in gold. 
 
 Then tiffen with Sir Robert Hart, the chief of 
 the Imperial Maritime . Customs. He has been 
 out here for 30 years, and knows as much as any 
 man, probably a thousand-fold more, about China. 
 His conversation was most interesting. His 
 position is unique, for Sir Robert collects and has 
 absolute control over all the levies on foreign 
 goods ; and a large part of the finances of China 
 pass through his hands. 
 
 We proceed to see the Examination Hall of the 
 second and third degrees, that for the first being 
 held under the Emperor's eyes. 
 
 This Examination is a remarkable feature in 
 
The Forbidden City. 291 
 
 Chinese life. It is the ambition of every man, 
 whatever his position or calh'ng, to become a 
 student^ for it is the avenue to all greatness, and 
 the means whereby all posts of honour or emolu- 
 ment are to be obtained. 
 
 Strange it is that in this stronghold of con- 
 servatism, there should be found such a radical 
 feature, whereby the humblest-born may raise him- 
 self by his own efforts to the rank of " big " man- 
 darin. Very honourable it is, too, that the greatest 
 attainment, the highest ambition and reward which 
 the country offers, is the possession of this much 
 coveted " First Degree." Year after year, the 
 same men come up, and it must be a noble and 
 touching sight, when, as is sometimes the case, an 
 old man of ninety will offer himself. Though 
 after a certain age, three trials entitle aged can- 
 didates to a degree honoris causa. These exa- 
 minations are held in each province, and con- 
 sist entirely in the writing of essays on classical 
 subjects. The successful ones are afterwards 
 published, and the victorious candidates accorded 
 public and local honours. 
 
 We pass through some empty courts, under 
 several peilaus, erected in honour of great 
 scholars, once gay with rainbow paint, but now, 
 of course, dusty and decaying. We can go no 
 further — for across the great doors is placed an 
 official seal, consisting of two strips of red paper 
 U 2 
 
292 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 placed crossways. We presume that the exami- 
 nation is still proceeding ; 10,400 students from this 
 great province of Chihli having presented them- 
 selves this year. The great expense, and the slow, 
 tedious journey to Peking, does not deter the 
 aspirants. For fourteen days and nights they are 
 shut up in separate cells, with desk, chair, paper, 
 pen and ink, their provisions being handed to 
 thejn through a trap door in the wall. Thankful 
 they must be when the ordeal is over. 
 
 We went on the last afternoon to see the 
 Tsungli Yimen, or Foreign Office — the Board 
 which alone has dealings with the representatives 
 of foreign countries. We pity these in their 
 frequent pilgrimages thither ; for to reach it we 
 passed through a succession of the filthiest lanes, 
 tortuous and narrow, bordered with stinking heaps 
 of rubbish. In one of these was the green lion- 
 guarded residence of the Emperor's cousin. Prince 
 Tung, and all these fashionable dwelling-houses 
 with their crumbling walls, from which the coat- 
 ings of whitewash are peeling, are surrounded by 
 these disgusting passages. Arrived at the Tsungli 
 Yimen, I only see the outer gateways of green 
 and gold, for of course its desecration by feminine 
 feet is not to be thought of. 
 
 Peking is for this reason a disappointment. 
 There is so much to see, and yet so little that can 
 be seen. Of recent years they have closed nearly 
 
The Forbidden City. 293 
 
 everything to foreigners, and the bitter feeling 
 against Europeans seems to be increasing. The 
 Lama Temple you cannot visit on account of the 
 hostile attitude of the people. Closed are all the 
 Imperial buildings of the Prohibited City. The 
 Marble Bridge, the Temple of Agriculture, where 
 the emperor ploughs a furrow in springtime, but 
 above all, invisible is the Temple of Heaven. 
 
 This latter temple is the most interesting sight 
 of the Chinese City. Its name properly speaking, 
 means, " the Altar of Heaven," for the Emperor 
 attends here to sacrifice twice a year. It is said 
 that "The worship of the Heaven or Supreme 
 Ruler is the most important of all the state 
 observances in China, before the rationalism of the 
 Confucianists and the polytheistic superstition of 
 Buddhism predominated. There are no images of 
 any kind in the temple, and the offering of whole 
 burnt bullocks, strikingly reminds us of the ancient 
 custom of western religions, as that of the Hebrews 
 and Greeks. The ceremonies of the sacrifices are 
 kept with the utmost severity, and are of a very 
 complicated nature. 
 
 The chief sacrifice is at the winter solstice. On 
 the 20th day of December, the offerings and an 
 elephant carriage are sent with great array to the 
 temple, and on the 21st the Emperor follows in a 
 sedan chair, covered with yellow silk, and carried 
 by thirty-two men ; he is preceded by a band of 
 
2 94 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 musicians; and followed by an immense retinue, 
 -including the princes, high officials, "big" and 
 "little" mandarins, all on horseback. Having 
 arrived at the temple, His Majesty offers incense 
 to Heaven and to his ancestors, and inspects the 
 offerings ; then he is conveyed on the elepTiant 
 carriage to the Palace of Abstinence, where he is 
 not allowed to take any animal food or wine, nor 
 to "sleep. Next morning, "seven quarters before 
 sunrise, he puts on his sacrificial robes and goes to 
 the southern gate of the outer enclosure, dismounts 
 from "the carriage arid walks to the great altar, 
 where an Imperial yellow tent has been erected on 
 the second terrace. At the moment he arrives at 
 the spot where he kneels, the fire of the sacrifice 
 is kindled and music is heard. The Emperor then 
 proceeds to the upper terrace of the altar," kneels 
 and burns incense before Heaven and also presents 
 incense to his ancestors. Then he makes three 
 genuflections, and one prostration, and offers 
 bundles of silk, jade cups and other gifts, music 
 being heard all the time. Afterwards he kneels 
 at another point of the altar, where an officer 
 reads a prayer aloud. At last he receives kneeling 
 the " cup of happiness " and the " flesh of happi- 
 ness." With the first dawn the whole party return 
 to the palace. Foreigners, who watched the party 
 when passing the Ch'ien-men from the city wall, 
 speak highly of the splendid appearance of the 
 
The Forbidden City. 295 
 
 whole procession : hundreds of officials in briUiant 
 robes of state and numberless followers on horse- 
 back, among them a company of the Imperial Life 
 Guards. 
 
 A similar sacrifice takes place at the spring 
 solstice, with the same ceremonies, at the northern 
 altar, but the motive is the special prayer for a 
 prosperous harvest, whilst the winter sacrifice is 
 offered for a blessing upon the whole empire. 
 
 We cannot see the ruins of the Summei" Palace, 
 the Yuan-ming-yuan, or Round and Splendid 
 Garden, and which is distant about ten miles 
 from Peking. • " It is a delightful park with a rich 
 variety of groves, temples, lakes, palaces and 
 pavilions," and must from the photographs be 
 very beautiful. It stands there for ever, as a 
 memorial left to embitter the Chinese against us, 
 yet who could say but that Lord Elgin, by destroy- 
 ing the Palace of their thrice sacred monarch, 
 brought home to them a fit and righteous judg- 
 ment ? 
 
 But our greatest disappointment of all is that 
 we must give up a five days' expedition to the 
 Great Wall if we would take the French mail from 
 Shanghai. " Fancy going to Peking and not 
 seeing the Wall ! " I can hear someone exclaim. 
 Well, we shall not be all unique in this, for three- 
 fourths of the hundred foreigners who live in 
 Peking have never been, nor ever intend to go. 
 
296 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 An artificial interest, all out of proportion to the 
 reality, is created by its great antiquity. Finished 
 in 204 B.C. (for it took ten years in building) for 
 1500 miles this great wall, which was intended to 
 keep out all the enemies of China, runs up and 
 down the northern face of the country, in one 
 place over a peak of 5225 feet high. It is con- 
 structed of earth and stones. It has been truly 
 said: "that looking over the surface of our globe, 
 it is the only artificial structure that would arrest 
 the gaze." 
 
 The grapes are sour. For after all, the visitors 
 who go do not see the real Great Wall, but only 
 a spur of more modern date. Also the walls of 
 Peking are considerably higher and more imposing. 
 
 As is only fit and proper, for they are the most 
 interesting feature of the city, we make our fare- 
 well to Peking from those grand Walls. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 SHANGHAI AND HONG-KONG. 
 
 We left Peking at dawn. Through the silent 
 streets of the Tartar City we drove, passing for 
 the last time through the Gate of Sublime Learn- 
 ing on to the sandy waste outside, jolting along 
 under the great Walls, with the sun rising to meet 
 us. 
 
 We are returning to Tungchau by the Canal, and 
 so saving the penalties of the road and the dust, 
 but owing to the numerous locks, we have to 
 transship no less than five times from one boat to 
 another. This water-way is in connection with the 
 great Imperial canal, another, like the Great Wall, 
 of those time-enduring monuments of the industry 
 of a great people — and serves to transport the 
 tribute of rice from the south to Peking. The 
 locks are very picturesque, being built of yellow 
 blocks of stone, over which the running water 
 forms a waterfall overshadowed by trees. It is a 
 quaint slow mode of travelling, gently rippling 
 along over the mirror surface of the water, past 
 
298 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 great rustling beds of pampas grass twelve feet 
 high, opposite one of which some Chinese sports- 
 men, with their matchlocks and lighted fuses, are 
 crouched ready to fire at the wild ducks that 
 abound in these watery marshes. Amongst the 
 groves of trees, which look golden in their autumn 
 foliage against a clear blue sky, we see many 
 memorial peilaus, and those other monuments of 
 stone pyramids springing from the back of a 
 huge tortoise. The air is still and clear as early 
 autumn, and the sounds from the mud villages 
 we pass, are borne clearly to us. The walls of 
 Peking, with their crenellated gateways, are just 
 fading away into the blue haze. 
 
 Five hours of tedious progress makes our eyes 
 glad to see the beautiful carved bridge of Palikiao, 
 where the combat in i860 took place, and the 
 damage then done to the bridge has never been 
 repaired. In a few minutes more the pagoda 
 of Tungchau looms up, and the canal rapidly 
 narrows. 
 
 We reach Tungchau in a veritable dust-storm, 
 that blows the loose sand by the banks into spiral 
 columns and pillars, and embark once more on 
 the house-boat. It seems quite like coming home. 
 Then we begin the Peiho's weary succession of 
 winding reaches, with the endless continuation of 
 mud banks and yellow water. 
 
 The prospect next morning was disheartening. 
 
Shanghai and Hong-Kong. 299 
 
 The wind was strong and dead ahead, and though 
 our men had worked all night, certain landmarks 
 told us that our progress was far from satisfactory. 
 All through that long day we crawled along ; 
 weary work it was for our poor tired crew. As 
 bend after bend opened out before us and receded, 
 each one so exactly like the other, we registered 
 a hope that we might never more see the Peiho. 
 Evening closed in, night succeeded, and we yet 
 vainly looked for the lights of Tientsin. As so 
 often happens after a long watching, we seemed to 
 arrive suddenly. Our plank door was removed, 
 and we found ourselves at Tientsin and the Bridge 
 of Boats, and amid the grateful " kotows " of our 
 men for a gratuity well earned by such patient 
 toil, we sped in jinrikishas through the dimly- 
 lighted city, where everyone carries his own 
 swinging coloured lantern, to the Consulate once 
 more. 
 
 We found a China Merchant's steamer, the Shin 
 Sheng, leaving Tientsin the next morning, and 
 embarked at once. Two unsuccessful attempts at 
 turning the steamer opposite the wharf we made ; 
 the third succeeded, but when she was broadside 
 across the stream, stem and stern touched the 
 banks. We passed safely through the perilous 
 bends of the river, only grounding occasionally, 
 but once the bows of the Shin Sheng rah up on 
 to the bank, and cut clean away quite ten feet of 
 
300 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 it. A little mud-house stood on the angle, and the 
 old village harpy to whom it belonged, came out 
 and shook her iist at the captain on the bridge, 
 showering imprecations on his head, and small 
 wonder, for some time previously the bows of his 
 ship had gone into her house and wrecked it 1 
 We breathed more freely when the forts of Taku 
 passed, the Bar, or " Heaven-sent Barrier," 
 crossed, and the pilot left behind, we emerged 
 without mishap into the Yellow Sea. 
 
 We had a fearful tossing in the Gulf of Pecheli. 
 At Chefoo we called for cargo. It is a pretty sea- 
 side place, with a splendid beach and bathing sands, 
 a boon to the residents of Shanghai, who either 
 come here or go to Japan for the summer months. 
 It was too rough for the lighters to come off, so 
 we anchored for the night. The next morning 
 a gale was blowing in the roadstead — the break- 
 ing of the north-east monsoon — and we had to 
 move round under the lea of the bluff. Our 
 hearts sink within us, and we despair of catch- 
 ing the French mail, which means waiting at 
 Shanghai a week for the P. and O. Returning 
 when the gale moderated, the agent sent off to 
 say that we were to start at once and not wait for 
 the cargo, so we have wasted eighteen hours 
 rolling and knocking about for nothing. 
 
 We had not gone more than two miles out, 
 when the engineer sent to say that a valve was leak- 
 
Shangha i and Hong -Kong. 301 
 
 ing ; this necessitated putting back again, and a 
 further delay. At last we get really off. Cer- 
 tainly we have endured much to see Peking. 
 Two days afterwards we are in the mouth of the 
 Yangtze, anxiously looking for the black funnels 
 of the Messageries boat. We know she should have 
 left at noon to-day, and it is just that hour. Yes, 
 it is all right. She is still there, surrounded by 
 lighters, and we steam close to find out that she 
 sails in twenty hours. There has been a delay of 
 one day, luckily for us. 
 
 We proceed up the Woosung tributary of the 
 Yangtze. It is a glorious morning. The junks, 
 painted in gaudy colours, with the all-seeing, 
 staring white and black eye, glide past us. The 
 banks are lined with a fort, factories, dock and 
 shipbuilding yard, a gay scene of thriving com- 
 mercial activity. Before us now opens out the 
 bright green lawn of the Bund, of Shanghai, with 
 Its blue-roofed pagoda for the band, backed by 
 a row of handsome oriental-looking houses and 
 "hongs," with green blinds and deep verandas. 
 There is the buff and grey of the German consu- 
 late, and the grey and red of the Japanese, whilst 
 the French tricolour flies over, and indicates the 
 French settlement, and in the far corner, to the 
 right, is the British flag over our own consulate and 
 garden. The numerous tributaries of the Yangtze 
 are bridged over, and join the quay together. 
 
302 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 One of the prettiest . sights in coming up to 
 Shanghai, or "upper Sea," is to see. the men-of- 
 war and gunboats of all nations, lying side by side' 
 in the river before the Bund. There are English, 
 American, French, German, Spanish, and Japanese 
 men-of-war and a Chinese gunboat, each floating 
 theii* star and stripes, tricolour. Union Jack, Black; 
 Eagle, red ball on a white ground (Japanese) and: 
 the Imperial Dragon. 
 
 Shanghai is a gay, bright clean place, wherfe up- 
 wards of 4000 Europeans reside, the majority being 
 British. These claim, for it the title of the Paris of 
 the East, ahd the shops and broad well-kept streets 
 make it worthy of the name. You have, too, the 
 picturesque element of Chinese life without the 
 accompanying dirt and squalor, for the typical 
 Chinese town with its filthy narrow streets is rele- 
 gated to the back of the settlement. All life 
 centres on the Bund, which we, and everyone else 
 are always passing up and down ; and here 
 amongst the smart little broughams, that are like 
 Indian gharries, . and the Victorias, dog-carts, and' 
 phaetons, with their scarlet-clad mafoos and syces,' 
 mingle, the sedan-chairs of magnates, the Chinese 
 wheelbarrow,. with the passengers balancing on 
 either ;side, and the brightly lined green and red 
 jinricksha. There is the same cosmopolitan crowd 
 on the pavements overflowing into the rqad, for 
 the white " ducks " and flannels of the Europeans, 
 
Shanghai and Hong-Kong. 303 
 
 mingle with the bright blue, green, maroon,. crim- 
 son, brown and yellow coats of the merchants and, 
 compradores. For many of the hongs (as the places 
 of business are called) are on the Bund— whilst 
 the loose coats and shiny trousers of the Chinese 
 ladies, with their smooth coils of black hair inter- 
 laced with green jade hair-pins and long pendant 
 earrings, are seen side by side with the flowing 
 robes and turbaned heads of an Indian. 
 
 We called at the British consulate, which lies in 
 an enclosure of spacious green lawn with palms 
 and flower-beds. There stands here a superb 
 granite cross erected to the memory of the five 
 victims, and companions of Sir Harry Parkes,.and 
 to avenge whose murder, the Summer Palace was 
 burnt and looted by the French. Further along, 
 on the Bund, is the statue to Sir Harry Parkes, a 
 little man with large whiskers, but a very able 
 diplomatist, whose death was universally mourned 
 by the Europeans in China. The English cathe- 
 dral and deanery lie at the back of the Bund. The 
 streets are so broad and clean, the roads so firm, 
 that it is a pleasure to be on them, particularly 
 after those of Peking. It is because they are under 
 the supervision of an English Municipal Council, 
 and they deserve for them the greatest credit. 
 
 At four o'clock we went to a meet of the Tandem 
 Club, the last of the season, held in front of the 
 bank. There are fifteen members, but ten only 
 
364 N ewfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 turned out, and were led off by the only tandem of 
 horses. The other teams were all of the short- 
 necked, thick-set, Chinese ponies driven in a modi- 
 fied dog-cart. Then we strolled along on the grass 
 under the trees to the gardens, to listen to the 
 Manila band. These gardens slope with green 
 lawns to the water's edge, and the wandering paths 
 lead by beds, bright with heliotrope, geraniums, 
 chrysanthemums, and tropical growths of banyan 
 trees, palms, magnolias, indiarubber and castor- 
 oil plants, amidst which pale-faced children are 
 playing in charge of their Chinese amahs. In the 
 evening we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Robert Little. 
 He is the able editor of the North China Daily 
 News. 
 
 On a lovely Sunday morning we embark on the 
 steam tug, and orice more, for the third and last 
 time, go down to Woosung. In an hour we are on 
 board the Messageries Maritime's s.s. CalMonien, 
 critically surveying our home for the next five 
 weeks. 
 
 The Messageries line has the advantage of the 
 P. and O. in that they are more generous in giving 
 separate cabins, the cuisine is said to be better, 
 and indeed they take trouble to make it so, send- 
 ing the cooks every two years back to a restaurant 
 in Paris. It is also an immense boon (which 
 everybody who has travelled much will appre- 
 ciate) to have fixed places for dinner only, and 
 
Shanghai and Hovg-Kovg. 
 
 305 
 
 at the other meals a free choice of companions. 
 The saloon is spacious, and there is a splendid 
 promenade deck, which is, however, somewhat 
 spoilt by the influx of too numerous second-class 
 passengers, who share the privilege of using it. 
 
 The north-east monsoon is with us, and in two 
 days and a half from leaving Shanghai, and after 
 passing through the Straits of Formosa, between 
 
 Harbour of Hong-Kong. 
 
 the mainland of China and the island of that name, 
 past Foochow and Amoy, which are too far dis- 
 tant to be seen, we anchor at Hong Kong at mid- 
 night. Though dark, it is a starlight night. Hong 
 Kong, or " Good Harbour," presents itself to us in 
 bright electric arches of light, thrown far up on 
 the sides of the peak, whilst its beautiful harbour 
 is traced out for us by the twinkle of lights from 
 
 X 
 
3o6 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 the sampans, moored in hundreds along the wharf, 
 by the swiftly moving jinricksha lights coursing 
 along the road of the sea-shore, and the dots of 
 lights on the rocking masts or the gleaming eyes 
 of steam-tugs in the harbour. 
 
 We have decided to give up Canton, see what 
 we can of Hong Kong in the time the steamer 
 stays, and not wait a week for the next mail. 
 
 I was once told that no one has ever done justice 
 to the beauties of Hong Kong, and as we landed 
 at sunrise on the quay I was inclined to agree to 
 this. The deep verandas of the Eastern -looking 
 houses, with their pale pink and drab tints, the 
 cool arcades, and above all the tropical wealth of 
 vegetation, makes Hong Kpng the prettiest of 
 Eastern cities. 
 
 Leaving Queen's Road, we are carried up in chairs 
 under a lovely overhanging avenue of banyan 
 trees, whose huge knotted roots lie round the path, 
 whilst from the grateful shade of their thick leaves 
 above, depend the long thread-like tendrils, form- 
 ing a transparent curtain. Past the grey, weather- 
 stained cathedral we go, hidden away in a little 
 recess under the hills, past the barracks, whence 
 sound the bagpipes of Princess Louise's High- 
 landers, to the station of the mountain railway up 
 the peak. "The Peak" — what would Hong Kong 
 be without this prominent feature ? True, by keep- 
 ing off the sea-breezes and by penning the town in 
 
Shanghai and Hong-Kong . 307 
 
 the narrow strip between the harbour and the 
 mountain, it makes it steamy, unhealthy, fever- 
 stricken and well-nigh uninhabitable in summer, 
 but then it provides a sanatorium on the many 
 summits of its heights, where every available plat- 
 form is occupied by a house. 
 
 Unflinchingly straight up runs the line of the rail- 
 way, and as we ascend, we look down on the roofs 
 of the houses, perched without any sequence, up 
 and down the side of the hills/ into gardens and 
 tennis courts, and the green waters of a reservoir 
 below ; over the black and white speckled mass that 
 stands for the town, further out to the harbour, 
 a blue pond studded with black spots by the 
 steamers, whilst the sampans are brown dots. The 
 range of barren rocky mountains close round the 
 harbour, and there is Koolong, with its wharves and 
 gpdowns, on the Chinese mainland, whilst we are 
 on the Island of British soil. It is a beautiful view, 
 this bird's-eye panorama of the town and harbour, 
 from Victoria gap. 
 
 You must see the Peak to realize its real height, 
 its scarcely sloping shoulders, covered with tropical 
 growth in the valley, growing scantier and scantier, 
 until you reach the summit, bare and rocky. Two 
 enormous hotels, and many houses, populate the 
 spacy crest. And the peep over the other side of 
 green rounded hills, running down to the sea, is 
 simply lovely, whilst the views from every point 
 X 2 
 
3o8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 are far-reaching and exhaustive. We take chairs 
 and go to the point, but one degree lower than the 
 topmost one, where stands the signal station, to 
 the bungalow of Government House, Early as it 
 is, and late in the season, we find the heat terrific. 
 Everyone is obliged to come and live up here in 
 the summer, the nights in Hong Kong bringing no 
 relief, and the difference in the temperature is often 
 as much as 9°. As we return we meet all the 
 business men, in the coolest of white costumes, 
 being carried in chairs by coolies in smart uni- 
 forms of white with blue or scarlet sashes, to the 
 station, going down to town for the day's work. 
 
 In descending, we return to the main thorough- 
 fare of Queen's Road, and after some shopping, go 
 to the City Hall, and the marble palace of the 
 Shanghai and Hong Kong bank, where I wait out- 
 side to watch the ever-varying stream of passers-by. 
 Chinamen in their cool cotton jackets and glazed 
 pantaloons, coolies with their bamboo-slung bur- 
 dens, sedan-chairs, jinrickshas, wheel-barrows, 
 chairs, Sikh policemen with their scarlet turbans, 
 Cinghalese, Parsees, mingling with our own ofificers 
 and soldiers, under the shadow of the trees. 
 
 And then we drive out to the Happy Valley, 
 and come suddenly upon that beautiful green lawn, 
 lying so naturally in the midst of luxuriantly 
 wooded hills. It is truly a felicitous little spot, 
 with its racecourse marked out by white railings 
 
Shanghai and Hong-Kong. 309 
 
 and its Grand Stand. But it is the cemetery which 
 fills us with admiration, and one would fain that 
 the Happy Valley were not desecrated by the race- 
 course, but rather consecrated to the peaceful 
 repose of the dead. They are separated only by 
 the breadth of the road. 
 
 Of all the God's acres in all parts of the world, 
 including the Jaeautiful one of Mount Auburn, at 
 Boston, but perhaps excepting the English ceme- 
 tery on the heights of Scutari, at Constantinople, or 
 that at Cannes, this one of the Happy Valley is the 
 most perfect. Entering by a gate in the walls, you 
 find yourself in a tropical garden, skilfully laid out, 
 and growing around you in profuse luxuriance, — 
 palms with graceful waving arms, mighty clumps of 
 feathery bamboos, delicate spreading tree ferns, 
 crotons of orange and yellow and variegated green, 
 hibiscus with their single blood-red blossom, coHas, 
 camellia and azaleas, bushes of flowering wax-like 
 alamanders, trailing masses of purple buganvillea, 
 all the hot-house flowers we prize at home, and 
 that grow so unwillingly with us, when compared to 
 this almost oppressive wealth of nature. Amongst 
 the bright gravel paths and green lawns, rise mas- 
 sive pillars, granite crosses and cenotaphs, me- 
 morials erected by soldiers and sailors to their 
 comrades — to many who, alas ! have perished from 
 the deadly effects of a climate which yet produces 
 all this beauty that is around us. 
 
3IO Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 We return to luncheon at Government House, on 
 the kindly invitation of General and Mrs. Barker,the 
 acting-governor until Sir William Robinson arrives 
 next month. With a scramble, and the aid of the 
 Government steam-launch, we just catch the Cale-^ 
 donien as she weighs anchor. We passed out 
 through the southern passage of the Island, on our 
 way to Saigon, the capital of French Cochin 
 China. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 COCHIN CHINA. 
 
 For the last two days we have been in sight of the 
 coast of Annam. 
 
 When shall we be at Cape St. Jacques ? Shall 
 we lose the tide ? This is the question which 
 one asks of the other on board. And by 6 a.m. we 
 find ourselves at rest, waiting outside the bar of the 
 river Dannai, for the tide to turn, to ascend inland 
 to Saigon. Saigon is the French capital of Cochin 
 China, or Indo-China, as it is called, and is the 
 chief city of the provinces of Annam, Tonquin, 
 and before long of Gambogia, when the present 
 King dies. 
 
 Cape St. Jacques is a pretty green foreland, 
 jutting out into the sea, fringed with cocoa-nut 
 palms, and has a large white hotel, built by the 
 Pilot. Surely by this roadstead upon the hills, 
 courting the breezes of the north-east monsoon, 
 with the ample anchorage in the rear, the French 
 might have fixed the capital of Cochin China. Put 
 
312 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 no. They placed it, as in olden time, far up a 
 tortuous river, with a narrow channel. The delay, 
 and the pilotage, frighten away the ocean grey- 
 hounds of commerce. 
 
 We weigh anchor. It is one o'clock. The sun 
 is blazing hot, and there is not a breath of air. 
 But it is cool, they say, compared to what Saigon 
 will be. We shall see. Now we are in the wind- 
 ing channel. North, south, east, west, we steer. 
 Larboard ! Triboard ! Four hours we steam up 
 the river Dannai, with its flat banks of mangrove 
 swamps, and tangle of tropical vegetation, where 
 they say tigers come out to sun themselves on the 
 sands. We sight at length the cathedral towers 
 of Saigon. They are to the right of us. In 
 another instant they will be to the left. Then we 
 appear to have passed them, for we see the town 
 on the starboard quarter. 
 
 But at five we are at the quay, which is shaded 
 by avenues of trees, with the hibiscus, blossoming 
 garden of the agent's house opposite — an old 
 temple with rows of fierce-tailed dragons guarding 
 the roof. On the wharf, the usual motley crowd 
 thickening every minute as the news of our arrival 
 spreads, whilst Victorias, drawn by those beautiful, 
 though rat-like, ponies that are bred in Tonquin, 
 are in waiting. These latter only come out at five 
 in the evening, and in the daytime we must be 
 content with the malabars, as the shuttered gharries 
 
Cochin China. 313 
 
 are called, from the Annamite name of the coach- 
 man. 
 
 We take the fashionable drive of Saigon, the 
 tour d'inspection. Off we go, flying as the wind, 
 past some native houses, built on piles over a 
 green swamp, with waving palms above them. 
 Here flourish the Cochin China pig, the real pig of 
 original breed, with its pink, bow-shaped back, and 
 earth-touching stomach, and the bright-plumaged 
 Cochin China fowls. We should like to buy 
 specimens of the animals that have made Cochin 
 China celebrated at home, but doubt the warmth 
 of our reception on board-ship if we return with 
 them. We cross the bridge, and look over the 
 hundreds of sampans that swarm up this creek of 
 the river ; then drive along for a few yards by the 
 steam tramway which connects the China town of 
 Cholons with Saigon, out under the cool wide 
 avenues of the Quai du Commerce, with its arsenal 
 and Bureaux d'Afl'aires. The roads are as flat and 
 firm as a billiard table. 
 
 Beautiful boulevards, wide streets, great cafds, 
 where pale-faced Frenchmen sip absinthe and 
 petits verres. It is Paris. Bravo, La France ! 
 But it would be much better for these gay causeurs, 
 to play lawn-tennis, and football, cricket, rackets 
 and rounders, as do the English at Hong Kong, 
 Singapore, and Colombo, thus defying, in large 
 measure, or at least postponing, the action of the 
 
314 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 tropics. It is thirty years since the French ac- 
 quired Saigon and Cochin China. At one time it 
 promised to be a prosperous colony. But that day 
 is past. Commercial depression reigns supreme, 
 and France wearies of the large subsidies swallowed 
 up without results by Tonquin. That, though, is 
 not our business. We rather admire the feats 
 of engineering, of laying outj and the horticultural 
 skill.' 
 
 We see this in perfection in the Jardin d'Acclimi- 
 tasion, but with a wealth of natural vegetation, 
 how easy it is to make a garden such a paradise 
 as is this. In the deep bend of the river are the 
 green lawns and forest-trees of this botanical 
 garden. There are banyan trees with their trellise 
 curtains of roots sweeping the ground, cacti in a 
 mighty spiky group, standing apart. Single aloes, 
 with their blooming crests, and the palms — they 
 form a palmery of themselves, with the various 
 speciinens of cocoa or tree palms, their straight 
 grey stems tufted at the top ; of sago palms, with 
 their graceful curving arms, shadowing the lawns ; 
 of travellers, with their hands of mighty fingers 
 outspread from the single stem, all and every kind 
 luxuriantly magnificent, a single one of which 
 would assist in making the fortune of a London 
 florist, such as we who see them dwarfed and frozen 
 when exiled to our northern climes; are scarcely 
 able to realize that they are of the same species. 
 

 BOTANICAL GARDEN, SAIGON. 
 
 Page 314. 
 
Cochin China. 315 
 
 There are magnolias and camellias, growing to 
 the height of our forest trees, bamboo clumps, 
 whose single-jointed stems spring equally high, 
 and mimosa trees, with their tender sensitive leaf, 
 as spreading as our chestnuts. And all these trees 
 are banked up with and grow out of brilliant beds of 
 variegated green and yellow crotons, of caladiums, 
 with their enormous boat-shaped leaves of pink 
 oleanders, of crimson hibiscus, and purple bugan- 
 villea, and convolvolus, whilst ' orange and lemon 
 trees, indiarubber and mangoes,. mingle with the 
 heavy green and yellow melon-like fruit of the 
 pommelo. In the midst of this is an aviary, and 
 cages of rare animals, natives of these tropical, 
 regions. We particularly notice the white pigeon, 
 with the single blood-red spot on the bosom. 
 
 We wander about in the dusky growth of over- 
 powering luxuriance, which to us appears so 
 supremely beautiful, but which they say in its 
 monotonous green, palls upon you when you live 
 amongst it. We come upon a cool arbour, formed 
 of green lattices overgrown with creepers and 
 passion flower, containing an exquisite fernery, 
 damp and green, with a collection of orchids of the 
 rarest kinds — indeed, we saw several specimens of 
 the hardier ones in purple and yellow, growing on 
 the trees near the wharf The twilight of this 
 little open-air conservatory is made darker by the 
 enormous bananas outside, under whose pale green 
 
3i6 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 sword-like leaves, cluster such heavy bunches of 
 fruit, fifty or sixty on a single stalk. 
 
 Night though closes quickly in, and if we would 
 see the Annamite suburbs we must give rein to our 
 impatient little black steeds and bowl swiftly out 
 into the country, by some fields of brilliant pale 
 green rice, where the monster grey water buffaloes, 
 with branching horns laid backwards, strong and 
 patient, are being driven home from working in 
 them,' by coolies, hidden under bamboo hats the 
 size of umbrellas. The marshes have been in a 
 measure drained, but the miasma rises thickly from 
 the rice fields, near which cluster the wretched 
 huts of thatched bamboo. 
 
 On we go, now through an avenue entirely com- 
 posed of the glossy leaved magnolia or another of 
 feathery mimosa, broken only by groves of tufted 
 cocoa palms. Then we reach the military boun- 
 dary, and returning homewards another way, pass 
 the cemetery where many a Frenchman lies low. 
 Along these shady avenues, deep and cool, we see 
 the walled compounds and overgrown gardens of 
 the bungalows of officers and merchants, of whom 
 about 1700 reside in Saigon. We meet many of 
 them out for their evening drive, flying along in 
 Victorias, to gain as much air as possible. There 
 are many smart-looking officers in white uniforms, 
 with their wives by their side — pale French ladies, 
 but in Parisian fashions. Poor things, they appear 
 
Cochin China. 317 
 
 sickly and enervated, yet robust compared to 
 the shop-keepers, who look, if they do not say so, 
 as if it was trouble enough to rise on the entrance 
 of a customer, without serving them. 
 
 But it should be a great colony. The Governor- 
 General's palace is magnificent — a Versailles, with 
 its long flights of steps and spacious balconies. 
 But his Excellency is always at Hanoi, vainly 
 endeavouring to get things straight in Tonquin. 
 The Cathedral, with its dim aisles and stained 
 glass ; the Grecian colonnades of the Palais de 
 Justice ; the post-offices ; the theatre, with its bi- 
 weekly performances ; the Officers' Club, where 
 the punkahs are lyslow waving to and fro in the 
 balconies, — all betoken the great intentions of its 
 founders. 
 
 And there are statues of Francis Gamier, the 
 intrepid and disavowed explorer of the way to 
 south-western China, and in the centre of the 
 great boulevard, leading to the Governor's palace, 
 we distinguish a very large stout man on a great 
 pedestal, his stomach far protruding. When we 
 come near, we see whom it represents : Gambetta in 
 the fur coat worn in the balloon whence he escaped 
 from Paris during the siege, to instil life into 
 France, with his outstretched finger pointing in 
 the direction of Tonquin, as in the memorable 
 day when he came to the Chamber, and said, 
 ' Messieurs, au Tonkin ! " A dying soldier, in the 
 
3i8 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 act of falling, is on one side, and a sailor, with a 
 bayonet peeping round as if in search of the enemy, 
 on the other. The reverse side of this fine monu- 
 ment bears the legend : " A Gambetta, le patriote, 
 d^fenseur de la politique colon iale." 
 
 In the evening some went to the opera, Traviata, 
 played by the subsidized cornpany, to distract the 
 garrison. The sight, however, of the house with 
 its myriad waving fans, was enough for us. We 
 could not face the Jieat. 
 
 What an awful night we passed on board I Four 
 steam winches in charge of seventy shouting 
 French, with ports shut, tropical heat, and mosqui- 
 toes by ihe million. It was over at sunrise like a 
 bad dream. But a sorry sight, the languid "heavy- 
 eyed passengers, with not a face but was severely 
 wounded, presented next morning ; for none had 
 slfept, and all had come off worsted in the conflict 
 with those venomous brutes. Glad we were of 
 daylight to go on shore, and set off in a gharry at, 
 seven o'clock to the open arcades where the 
 curio shops are. The black wood-work injaid with 
 niother-of-pearl that comes from Tonquin is very 
 pretty, but otherwise we only see curiosities 
 common to other, countries. We drive past 
 gardens, which, as in France, are unrailed and open 
 to the public, to the market square, with its deep 
 red-robfed J market hall, where a busy spene of 
 buyirig and . selling is progressing. We notice 
 
Cochin China. 319 
 
 many French cafds, the familiar little marble- 
 topped tables, looking strange among the palm trees 
 of the gardens. There are many French officers, 
 in solar topees and cotton umbrellas, strolling in 
 the streets, but though the French element pre- 
 dominates, there is a wonderful mixture of races — 
 of Chinese, Atinamites with their heads bound in 
 red cloths, Cinghalese with high tortoisehell comb, 
 and Indians in sarong ; and the languages are as 
 varied, for here the Chinese and natives have 
 learnt French, instead of pigeon English. 
 
 By nine o'clock the sun on the top of the gharry 
 is overpowering. We are quite overcome by the 
 heat, and abandoning all idea of going by the steam 
 tramway to Cholons, the neighbouring emporium 
 of the Rice of Annam, return on board. But 
 at eleven o'clock the thermometer in the shade 
 registered 95? Fahrenheit, and in the sun about 
 130", and we lay on the deck ready to succumb to 
 the awful breathless heat, just existing through 
 the long midday hours of the worst part of the 
 day. 
 
 The tropical vegetation of Saigon had entranced 
 us, but its charms faded before the experience of 
 this equatorial temperature by which alone it can 
 be produced. We were grateful when at five 
 o'clock the twenty-four hours' sojourn required by 
 the Go.vernment contract were over, and we left 
 Cochin China on our homeward voyage. 
 
320 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 It is a long, long journey home to England, this 
 one of 10,000 miles from Shanghai to London — 
 lasting for five weeks. 
 
 Day after day goes by with the same routine, 
 until we feel that we are automatons. Passengers 
 come and go at the various ports, but " we go on 
 for ever." Night and day there is heard the 
 ceaseless throbbing of the engines, like the beating 
 heart of some great monster. It lulls you to sleep, 
 keeps you company in the silence of the night, and 
 greets you in the morning, and when we are in 
 port, we unconsciously feel that something is want- 
 ing. It is a cheering noise, for every revolution of 
 the screw brings us nearer home ; 4368 times does 
 it revolve in one hour, and it takes 3,600,000 revolu- 
 tions to bring us to Marseilles. We consume 52 
 tons of coal a day, or 1800 tons for the whole 
 voyage, whilst 8000 kilos of oil are used for the 
 machinery. 
 
 The ship is like a floating city with a cosmo- 
 politan population, for we have over twenty dif- 
 ferent nationalities on board : French, English, 
 German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Russian, 
 Chinese, Dutch, Austrians, Arabians, Indians, etc., 
 and yet all goes smoothly, save for the passing 
 incident of a passionate Frenchman, who came 
 to ask the captain's permission to fight a duel with 
 an officer from Tonquin, for usurping his place at 
 table. 
 
Cochin China. 321 
 
 It is a monotonous thirty-six days of life at 
 sea, alternating with frantic rushes to land, when 
 in. port, and sometimes sleeping on shore, where, 
 like at Singapore and Colombo, the ship is her- 
 metically sealed for coaling. Then there is dire 
 confusion on board, everyone loses his head, the 
 ■ stewards are beside themselves, and the organiza- 
 tion becomes sadly out of gear. We are thankful 
 to put out to sea once more, into the breeze and 
 calm, to sail away into that great trackless space 
 so well defined " as a circle whose centre is every- 
 where, and whose circumference nowhere." 
 
 We touch at Singapore, and spend the night at 
 Government House, noting the growth of the 
 town, and the great improvements since we were 
 there six: years ago. Through the Straits of 
 Malacca, past Acheen Head, the extreme westerly 
 point of Sumatra to Colombo — Colombo with its 
 beautiful sea-shore, where amidst palm groves, the 
 blue breakers of the Indian Ocean are ever rolling 
 in, and casting their surf and foam on the golden 
 sands. Through its tropical avenues we drive, past 
 the barracks, where the pipe of the bag-pipes is 
 heard, wailing in their far exile, and the handsome 
 Cingalese merchants, with their checked sarongs 
 and tortoiseshell combs, tempt us with precious 
 stones. Mount Adam, with his pillar-like peak, 
 in the centre of Ceylon, does us honour by show- 
 ing himself (a rare occurrence) as we put out once 
 
 Y 
 
322 Newfoundland io Cochin China, 
 
 more to sea, through the magnificent breakwater 
 of Colombo. 
 
 Six days' steaming, and we cast a:nchor under 
 rocky Aden, whose peaks so barren and sterile, 
 are yet picturesquely deformed, and glowing with 
 warm tints of cobalt and carmine. Then we enter 
 the Red Sea, through the Straits of Babelmandeb, 
 by England's key to the Eastern hemisphere, the 
 Island of Perim, and pass fragrant Mocha on the 
 sandy shore. 
 
 One hundred hours through this inland sea, and 
 we are at Suez waiting our turn to enter that great 
 highway of nations, that sandy ditch cut through 
 the desert, that connects the eastern with the 
 western globe. In the daytime we have that 
 strange fascination linked to the boundless plain 
 of sand — the mirage flickering on the horizon, 
 the clear pale blue and pink shades that steal 
 over the desert at sundown, with the golden glory 
 of the sunset sinking slowly into the waters 
 of the Bitter Lake, whilst at night the banks of the 
 canal are illuminated by the broad shafts of light, 
 that sweep from the electric lamp in the bows of 
 every ship. 
 
 We spend a dreary Sunday at Port Said, amid 
 its dirty streets, rubbishy oriental shops, thievish 
 donkey-boys, and a population which gathers in 
 the scum of the earth. 
 
 The Harbour of Alexandria is entered at sunrise 
 
Cochin China. 323 
 
 next day, and we look in the dull chill of early 
 morning on its quays and forts, its mosqued domes 
 and windmills, but ere the day is really begun we 
 are on our way joyfully cleaving the waters of the 
 Mediterranean^ near, so near home now. The 
 chill winds and the grey atmosphere would make 
 us know we are in Europe once more. The hard 
 even-coloured skies of the East, burning with 
 brazen sun, have been left on the other side of the 
 Canal, and now the skies are full of grey and purple 
 clouds, silver-edged, soft and rounded. The, 
 Southern Cross has sunk below the horizon, the 
 brilliant starlight nights, with the purple vault of 
 heaven gemmed with diamond stars, have faded 
 into the past. 
 
 Now the snow-clad mountains of Candia or 
 Crete rise up from the ocean above low-lying 
 clouds. Then, the danger of avoiding Charybdis 
 to be wrecked on Scylla safely passed, we thread 
 the green Straits of Messina between, the toe of 
 Italy and the Island of Sicily. The smoking cone 
 of Etna is invisible, but the little island volcano of 
 Stromboli shoots forth its black column of lava. > 
 
 The beacon lighthouses of the Straits of Boni- 
 facio tnark out our course between the islands of 
 Sardinia and Corsica. And by the next afternoon 
 the vine-terraced mountains and sunny shores of 
 the Corniche are near at hand, with the white 
 villas of Toulon shining in the sunlight. 
 Y 2 . 
 
324 Newfoundland to Cochin China. 
 
 The last day on board, the last packing, the last 
 dinner, the last evening. What a pleasant bustle 
 of departure, what a feeling of honne camaraderie 
 prevails ! With the contagious sympathy of joy, 
 passengers speak to each other who have held 
 aloof for the whole month's voyage. We are all 
 restless and excited, and only able to discuss the 
 hour of arrival — no, not the hour, it is the half- 
 hours and quarters thatwe disputeand wager about. 
 
 The sun goes down. The great white cliffs — for 
 theiy are very near to us now — loom up ghostly in 
 the dim twilight ; these are bathed in pink reflec- 
 tions from the rosy sky. We see the little chapel 
 perched on high, where the sailors implore the 
 protection of the sainted Mary ere commencing a 
 voyage — the gloomy dungeon fortress of Chateau 
 d'lf on its island, and with the last gleams of day- 
 light we sight the green Prado, the cathedral 
 towers of Notre Dame, and the large seaport of 
 Marseilles. 
 
 For two days we linger in the sunny south, under 
 blue skies and" warm sunshine, amid the palms, 
 cacti, and hedges of roses. 
 
 We reach Paris in time to see the gorgeous 
 obsequies at the Madeleine of Dom Pedro, the ex- 
 Emperor of Brazil. Then ends our second journey 
 round the world with a fearful gale in the English 
 Channel; reaching Charing Cross in the raw cold 
 and fog of a December night. 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
 BY 
 
 C. E. HOWARD VINCENT, C.B., M.P. 
 
 BRITISH AND AMERICAN TRADE IN 
 CANADA. 
 
 MEMORANDUM 
 
 Addressed to the Chamber of Commerce and Manufacture oj 
 Sheffield uj>on British and American Trade in the 
 Dominion of Canada and the McKinley Tariff in the 
 United States. 
 
 September, 1891. 
 
 Internal Trade. 
 
 I. — It is necessary in the first place to state that the in- 
 ternal trade of Canada has made vast progress during the 
 past decade. Not only is this evident from the numerous 
 factories at the principal centres, but it is corroborated by 
 the rapid extension and development of Toronto, Hamilton, 
 Winnipeg and other towns. Manufacture has taken such 
 rapid strides that not only is a very large proportion of the 
 articles in daily use of home make, but the whole of the iron 
 bridges and much of the plant upon the gigantic railway 
 system, and the greater part of the agricultural machinery 
 are of Canadian construction, but there is a surplusage for 
 export of certain manufactured goods, amounting iii the 
 fiscal year ending June, l8go, to 5f million dollars — up- 
 wards of two-fifths of which were purchased by the British 
 flag. 
 
326 Appendix. 
 
 Increase of External Trade. 
 
 2.— The external trade (imports and exports) has also 
 increased from 153 million dollars in 1879, when the 
 " National Policy " was inaugurated by the late Right 
 Honourable Sir John Macdonald, to 218 milHon dollars in 
 the last statistical year. 
 
 Imports from the United Kingdom and the 
 Empire. 
 
 3. — The imports from the United Kingdom of British and 
 Irish produce have increased from 5,040,524/. in 1879, to 
 7,702,798/. in 1889. 
 
 In the twelve months, July ist, 1889, to June 30th, 1890, 
 the purchases by Canada from the British Empire amounted 
 to 45f million dollars, or only 6J million dollars less than 
 from the United States with their 60,000,000 of people and 
 conterminous frontier of over 3000 miles, running espe- 
 cially close to the more settled and affluent portions of the 
 Dominion. 
 
 This is the more satisfactory when it is considered that 
 less than one-fourth of the British imports were admitted 
 free of a duty averaging 25 per cent, ad valorem, while two- 
 fifths of the American imports were from their nature un- 
 taxed. 
 
 Competition Between British and American 
 Flags. 
 
 4. — The Union Jack upon the one hand, and the Stars 
 and Stripes upon the other, are practically the only two com- 
 petitors for the custom of Canada, and they absorb between 
 them 98 million dollars worth of the import trade out of a 
 total of 112 million dollars. 
 
 Superiority of England. 
 
 5.— In most of the great lines of manufactured goods, 
 such as in the manufactures of iron and steel : of cutlery ; 
 of cotton and silk ; of wool and linen ; of lead, paper and 
 fur ; of hemp, twine and earthenware, as also in hats, gloves, 
 combs, umbrellas, embroideries, ribbons, crapes, oilcloth, 
 iron furniture, fancy articles, and in bottled ale, beer and 
 porter, England more than holds her own against the 
 American Republic. 
 
Appendix. 327 
 
 Foreign Intermixture. 
 
 6. — At the same time it is right to observe that a consider- 
 able and increasing proportion of the imports officially 
 attributed to British production were in reality of German, 
 French, or other foreign origin, and this to an amount ex- 
 ceeding last year six million dollars. 
 
 They were obtained, however, through English distribut- 
 ing houses instead of direct, partly by reason of transit 
 facilities, but mostly on account of the long credit readily 
 accorded. 
 
 Lead of the United States. 
 
 7. — The United States on the other hand take the lead with 
 manufactures of brass and copper; of gutta-percha and 
 India-rubber; of slate, stone, and wood ; of cork and glass ; 
 of leather and tin ware, as also in edge tools, Britannia metal, 
 bells, brushes, buttons, carriages, clocks and watches, 
 jewellery, musical and surgical instruments, and in agricul- 
 tural implements. 
 
 • Sheffield Trade in Canada. 
 
 8. — In the staple trades of Sheffield, with the exception of 
 edge-tools, the ascendency of England is fairly well main- 
 tained. 
 
 Cutlery. 
 
 g. — Especially is this the case with regard to cutlery. 
 Out of 311,897 dollars (say 62,500/.) worth of table knives, 
 jack knives, pocket knives, and other cutlery imported into 
 the Dominion during the past year, about two-thirds came 
 from the United Kingdom. 
 
 Of the remainder the United States supplied 27,900 
 dollars worth, and Germany 43i5°o dollars worth. 
 
 Not a few importers of Sheffield cutlery speak anxiously, 
 however, of the growing competition of Newark (New 
 Jersey) and of Germany — especially in the production of 
 attractively got up and elegantly carded knives at low 
 prices. 
 
 In Canada itself only one attempt has, I believe, been 
 made to establish a cutlery factory, and this recently at 
 Halifax by a young Sheffield man, assisted by six or eight 
 Sheffield trained artisans. They speak hopefully of their 
 prospects and are meeting with much local encouragement. 
 
328 Appendix. 
 
 Plated Cutlery. 
 
 It is right to add that although throughout the Dominion 
 the table cutlery bears the names of the leading Sheffield 
 houses, the more easily cleaned plated cutlery is coming 
 into some use. During the past year 919 dozen were im- 
 ported, to which the United States contributed 774 dozen 
 and Great Britain only 140. 
 
 Files. 
 
 10. — In files and rasps the import from England amounted 
 to 34,358 dollars (say 6S00/.), and from the United States 
 to 45,724 dollars. 
 
 Saws. 
 
 II. — In saws the United States made even greater head- 
 way with a total consignment amounting to 14,000/., while 
 Great Britain sent scarcely 600/. worth. 
 
 Edge Tools. 
 
 12. — A like disproportion occurs with regard to edge tools, 
 of which the United States supplied 15,000 dollars worth 
 out of a total external purchase by the Dominion of 18,279 
 dollars. 
 
 This has been explained by the untiriiig efforts constantly, 
 made by American manufacturers and their employes to 
 make all tools more and rnore adapted for the purpose in 
 view, lighter and more facile to the hand, without the 
 slightest regard to former use, old ideas or customs. 
 
 Axes. 
 
 1 3.— It is frequently alleged that Sheffield lost the Canadian 
 axe trade by adherence to the opinion that it was a better 
 judge of the shape of the handle or the chopper than the 
 backwoodsmen whose livelihood depended upon the skilful 
 use of the axe. 
 
 This must, however, be legendary, for I am told we never 
 had the Dominion axe trade. 
 
 In any case, at the present time nearly all the axes used 
 in the vast lumber industry are of Canadian make, and out 
 of a total import of 6751 dollars worth last year, the whole 
 came from the United States, with the exception of a single 
 axe contributed by France. ° 
 
Appendix. 329 
 
 Spades and Shovels. 
 
 14. — Of spades and shovels 4000 dollars worth were im- 
 ported from Great Britain against 6259 dollars worth from 
 the United States. 
 
 Scythes. 
 
 In scythes the two countries each supplied one half of a 
 total import of 6731 dollars worth. 
 
 Agricultural Implements. 
 
 15. — But in other agricultural implements — ploughs, 
 drills, harrows, Torks, rakes, mowing machines, harvesters, 
 etc., America supplied no less than 1 17,000 dollars worth, 
 against only 4000 dollars worth, from Great Britain. 
 
 The explanation given is similar to that I have often 
 heard in Australasia, that the high-priced, solid made, some- 
 what heavy and durable machines and implements which 
 find favour in England, are unsuitable for Colonists with 
 small capital, who want a cheap, handy and light 
 implement which can be replaced as soon as a year or 
 two brings easier means, and sees improvements per- 
 fected. 
 
 It is indeed stated in proof of the adoption of like ideas 
 in the mother country that more Ontario-made self-binding 
 reapers have been sold this year in Great Britain than any 
 of English manufacture. 
 
 Bar Iron, Pigs, Rails, etc. 
 
 16. — It is, however, in bar iron ; in boiler or other plate 
 iron ; in hoop, band, or scroll iron ; in iron, in slabs, blooms, 
 etc. ; in iron pigs ; in railway bars, rails and fish plates ; in 
 rolled iron or steel angles, beams, girders, etc. ; in sheet 
 iron, and in wrought iron or steel tubing that the United 
 Kingdom asserts the greatest predominance with aii import- 
 ation last year into Canada amounting to 2,356,523 dollars 
 against 642,129 dollars worth from the United States — that 
 is, nearly fourfold. 
 
 At Londonderry in Nova Scotia important rolling mills 
 have been established, and at Toronto and elsewhere in 
 Ontario there are prosperous foundries. 1 
 
 Machinery. 
 
 17. — England though falls back again seriously in 
 
330 Appendix. 
 
 machinery, composed wholly or in part of iron, in locomo- 
 tive, fire, or other engines, and in cast iron vessels, plates, 
 etc., as also in builders', cabinet makers', carriage and 
 harness makers' hardware, and in house furnishing hard- 
 ware. 
 
 In these lines Great Britain supplied Canada with only 
 about 100,000/. worth, compared to 500,000/. from the 
 United States. 
 
 In connection with machinery it may not be amiss to 
 mention the almost invariable' practice, throughout the 
 American continent, for all machinery under the control 
 either of the State or public bodies being kept spotlessly 
 clean and as attractive as possible, and, in the case of all 
 stationary engines, allowing the public to see them in opera- 
 tion, from a gallery or other suitable place, so that humble 
 mechanical genius may feast its eyes, and think out problems 
 or improvements, which may advance their authors to wealth, 
 and place further names upon the roll of the world's 
 inventors. 
 
 Electro-Plate and Britannia Metal. 
 
 18. — In electro-plated ware and gilt ware of all kinds the 
 import from Great Britain amounted last year to 51,041 
 dollars, and to 98,669 dollars from the United States, while 
 in manufactures of Britannia metal (not plated) the import- 
 ation from America amounted to 40,000 dollars, or eight 
 times that from Great Britain. 
 
 Predominance of British Manufactures of Cotton 
 and Wool. 
 
 19. — It is not necessary to examine in like detail the 
 relative trade in the Dominion of Great Britain and the 
 United States in the manufactures which are not located in 
 SheflBeld. But it may be mentioned that the purchases by 
 Canada of British cotton goods exceeded three million 
 dollars last year against one-fifth that amount from the 
 United States, in velveteens exceeded 82,000 dollars from 
 Britain against only 356 dollars from America : while the 
 sale to Canadians of British manufactures of wool were over 
 ten million dollars, or 100 times that of the States. 
 
 The Empire, Canada's best Customer. 
 20. — While, as has been shown, Canada bought last year 
 
Appendix. 33 1 
 
 of Great Britain and Ireland, and British possessions, to an 
 amount exceeding forty-five millions of dollars, the Empire 
 was in return the best customer of the Dominion, purchas- 
 ing no less than 44,479,992 dollars worth of Canadian pro- 
 ducts, or 11,156,785 dollars worth more than the United 
 States, and admitting nearly the whole free of all duty. 
 
 Preferential Trade within the Empire. 
 
 21. — It is hardly to be expected that Canada, with her 
 scanty and hard-working population could, with the example 
 of every nation or colony (save one) before her, attempt to 
 raise by direct taxation the twenty-four million dollars of 
 public revenue she now derives from customs duties. 
 
 But there can be little doubt that if a preference was ob- 
 tained for British over foreign goods in the tariff, it would 
 give just that pecuiiiary advantage calculated to stimulate 
 the undoubted partiality of most British colonists for British 
 made goods, if they themselves are unable to produce them 
 in adequate quantity. 
 
 Such preferential trade, large public meetings I have 
 recently addressed in all the principal commercial centres, 
 on behalf of the United Empire Trade League, have declared 
 with practical unanimity and much support from both 
 political parties, that Canada is willing to exchange with 
 the mother country and the Empire, so soon as foreign treaty 
 hindrances (treaties with Belgium and Germany of 1862 and 
 1865) are removed — it being calculated that no policy would 
 more certainly advance the prosperity, peopling and capital- 
 ization of the whole country and the consequent augmentation 
 of customers. 
 
 Means of Commercial Negotiation. 
 
 22. — No more effective means either could probably be 
 found to bring about that reduction of the United States 
 tariff wall, so much desired both by the Dominion of Canada 
 and the mother country, for it would furnish her Majesty's 
 representatives with a weapon of commercial persuasion 
 they now wholly lack in negotiating with foreign countries. 
 
 Effect of the McKinley Tariff. 
 
 23. — It may be too early perhaps to judge definitely as to 
 the effect of the McKinley tariff upon British trade in the 
 United States, There can, however, be no doubt that in 
 
332 Appendix. 
 
 many industries, and especially among the receivers of wages 
 in the United Kingdom, it will be very serious, and tend still 
 further to extend the disproportion between the sales of 
 America to Great Britain and the purchases by America of 
 British goods, which have stood for some time in the adverse 
 ratio of three to one. 
 
 Much Change not to be expected. 
 
 24. — It is necessary, therefore, to say that while the organs 
 of the democratic party in the United States and the sanguine 
 views of American importers who are in personal or corre- 
 spondence relations with England, encourage a hope that 
 the McKinley tariff will be repealed or considerably modified 
 in the near future, I am convinced that, as matters stand, 
 such belief is to a great extent delusive. 
 
 In the first place the democratic majority in the House of 
 Representatives, as at present constituted, is practically 
 powerless in the face of a strong and hostile Senate, with 
 an equal mandate from the people, and in the face too of 
 an antagonistic President, to a great extent independent 
 of either, with all his Ministers and machinery of govern- 
 ment. 
 
 In the second place democratic leaders and advocates in 
 every locality are eager to protest that they do not now 
 desire free trade, do not dream of admitting duty free the 
 productions of competing foreign workmen, and that they 
 aim only at a reduction of the tariff. 
 
 Again, it is now well understood that the alleged rise in 
 prices at the time of the election last year for Congress was 
 artificial and impressed upon voters by skilful wire-pulling — 
 such as the hiring of itinerant pedlars to perambulate the 
 agricultural districts with household wares marked up at 
 double cost ; by urging democratic retail dealers to serve 
 their party (and their tills) by demanding greatly increased 
 sums for all goods during the campaign " in consequence of 
 the new tariff." 
 
 Industrial Prosperity in the United States. 
 
 25. — There appears to be little doubt that the Federal 
 Commission now sitting will find that, although in some dis- 
 tricts there may have been speculating failures, employment 
 was never upon the whole more plentiful or better remune- 
 rated than at the present time. As in Canada so in the 
 United States, it is work which is everywhere seeking hands 
 
Appendix. 333 
 
 — and not, as with us, men searching, too often vainly, for 
 employment. 
 
 On both sides of the border between Canada and the 
 United States the necessaries of life' — wheat, flour, bread, 
 meat, are extraordinarily cheap and excellent, while artisan 
 clothing, so often reputed dear and pressing upon the family 
 purse, is readily obtainable, so old Sheffield men have 
 assured me, in very fair quality at from 8 dollars 50 cents. 
 to 12 or 14 dollars per suit, that is il. 14J. to 2/. xits. Indeed, 
 before me is the advertisement of a New York house offering 
 " Jersey Cloth (sifk finish, new), blue, black or brown, per 
 suit 14 dollars, quality XXX." 
 
 Beyond question the whole standard of industrial life is 
 higher than in Europe — higher too, 1 am sorry to have to 
 admit, than in Great Britain. Neither poverty nor distress 
 are visible, while drunkenness, so far as it may exist, is kept 
 carefully out of sight. 
 
 American Reciprocity Treaties. 
 
 26. — It will be probably less, however, on the industrial 
 prosperity of American workers, on the success of the high 
 tariff in compelling competitors for the custom of the 
 American people, to employ their capital within the United 
 States, to pay wages to Americans, and use American 
 materials, that the Republican party will appeal next year 
 for a new Presidential lease of power (with what chance of 
 success I do not pretend to prophecy), than upon the 
 unexpected triumph that has attended Section III., or the 
 Reciprocity clause of the McKinley Tariff Act in the hands 
 of Mr. Secretary Blaine. 
 
 Already under its provisions free entry for American pro- 
 ductions and manufactures has been secured into Brazil — a 
 market taking in 1889 6,232,316/. worth of British goods — 
 in exchange for the free entry of the raw materials and other 
 commodities of that Republic so rich in natural wealth. 
 
 The same result has been achieved, and will shortly come 
 into force with regard to Spanish possessions, taking to- 
 gether 8,000,000/. worth of British products every year. 
 
 To break up British Trade. 
 
 27. — This latter treaty is viewed with especial concern in 
 Canada, and the notice of terminating the Anglo-Spanish 
 treaty of commerce which has been given, gives rise to a fear 
 
334 Appendix. 
 
 that the Americans will secure the trade with the Spanish 
 Indies heretofore enjoyed by the Dominion. 
 
 Both treaties will also very injuriously affect the interests 
 of the fishermen of Newfoundland, who among the Catholic 
 population of Brazil and the territories of Spain seek the 
 principal market for that dried fish, the sale of which, until 
 improved fish trade and other mercantile relations are 
 established with England, as they might easily be, constitutes 
 their principal means of existence. 
 
 A like treaty has been concluded with San Domingo, and 
 others are in active negotiation. 
 
 The vaunted object is " the breaking up piece-meal of 
 British foreign trade," and whether or no it obtains that aim, 
 the untoward influence these treaties, placing American trade 
 upon a preferential basis, are calculated to exert in that 
 direction, is not, I fear, a circumstance well calculated to 
 induce the masses of the American people, in their present 
 frame of mind, very speedily to destroy the instrument. 
 
 Effect of British Inaction. 
 
 28. — It is a paramount duty to direct the attention of the 
 Sheffield Chamber of Manufacture, as a body representative 
 of the commercial and industrial community of Great Britain 
 and Ireland, to this practical aspect of the present situation, 
 lest buoyed up by a vain hope that the markets of the United 
 States will be thrown open, England allows all opportunity 
 to pass of following the example of America and Central 
 Europe in establishing preferential trading relations on 
 mutually advantageous terms. A commercial union richer 
 in its prospects than any attainable by whatever phalanx of 
 foreign nations, lies now, but not for much longer, ready to 
 her hand — that of the British Empire, of a fifth of the entire 
 world, peopled or fostered by her own people, capitalized by 
 her own capital. 
 
 Inaction much longer maintained on the part of the mother 
 country will be ascribed by the energetic minds of Greater 
 Britain to callous indifference to Imperial responsibilities, 
 and can have no other effect than to expose Canada, New- 
 foundland, the West Indies, British Guiana and British 
 Honduras, aggregating not much short of half the area of 
 the Empire, and not impossibly other Colonies, to the 
 temptation of entering instead into commercial alliance with 
 the United States, involving discrimination in favour of 
 foreigners against the British flag, which even the loyalty of 
 the most loyal Colonial subjects of her Majesty the Queen 
 
Appendix. 335 
 
 may not, with due regard to their material interests, be able 
 to resist. 
 
 American Pioneers of Commerce. 
 
 29. — But in any event I must note the amazing energy and 
 push shown by American business houses. On every journey 
 in nearly every quarter of the globe you meet their repre- 
 sentatives, who lose no opportunity of skilfully advancing 
 American trade ; and while Germany, backed by a vigilant 
 Government, is fallowing closely in the same direction with 
 astonishing results, the reports of her Majesty's Consular 
 officers agree in declaring that the appearance of an English 
 commercial traveller becomes more and more rare. 
 
 Boards of Trade. 
 
 30. — American Boards of Trade, corresponding to our 
 Chambers of Commerce, are also very active organizations, 
 sparing neither expense nor trouble. 
 
 They occupy a like position in Canada, and in Toronto 
 the Board of Trade — an enthusiastic meeting whereof 1 had 
 the honour of addressing — has erected a palatial building, 
 where business men meet daily for the mutual exchange of 
 information and views. The turn of the market is recorded 
 from hour to hour from the centres of commerce, and among 
 the members there exists an admirable system of mutual life 
 insurance. 
 
 Canada as a Field for British Capital and • 
 Immigration. 
 
 31. — In conclusion, it is hardly possible to speak of Canada 
 in exaggerated terms as a source from which Great Britain 
 may most readily obtain the larger portion of the supply of 
 corn, meat, and dairy produce, her increased population and 
 diminished agriculture oblige her to purchase from over the 
 sea. 
 
 The extremely fertile and virgin soil of the vast region 
 occupied by Manitoba, the North- West Territories, and 
 British Columbia— half the size of Europe, and lying be- 
 tween Lake Superior and the Pacific Ocean — has now been 
 provided by British Canadian enterprise with a complete 
 network of railways, bringing it, so soon as Atlantic com- 
 munication by Nova Scotia and Newfoundland has been 
 improved, to within fourteen days' steam of Liverpool, 
 
33^ Appendix. 
 
 Capital and immigrafion are alone needed for their 
 development. 
 
 ■ A better field for the former could not be found if British 
 Commercial Union made the markef secure of foreign 
 caprice, while for steady industry under the old flag, under 
 like institution^, under the same law, no wider scope exists 
 in the universe. 
 
BRITISH TRADE WITH JAPAN. 
 
 MEMORANDUM 
 ADDRESSED TO THE CUTLERS' COMPANY OF HALLAM- 
 
 shire, upon 
 
 British Trade with Japan. 
 
 Progress of Japan. 
 
 I . — Little idea can be formed of the'progress and develop- 
 ment of Japan without a personal visit. That the Japanese 
 Empire should have heen brought in less than a quarter of a 
 century from barbaric darkness and isolation to a leading 
 place in the civilized world, is not the least remarkable event 
 of the present generation. The fact that this great revolution 
 has been accomplished without the pressure of external war, 
 and practically without internal riot or bloodshed, renders it 
 the more extraordinary. 
 
 Some may affect to prefer the old order of things, may think 
 that the transition has been dangerously rapid, may sneer at 
 the wonderful adaptive faculty displayed. This is, however, 
 certain, that in good order and sobriety, in cleanliness and 
 politeness, in industry and contentment, the Japanese are 
 already in the van of nations. 
 
 The police, postal, telegraphic, and educational systems 
 are tributes to their capacity, while over 1400 miles of rail- 
 way are being efficiently worked by native employes. 
 
 Care and caution will be undoubtedly very necessary for 
 many years to come. But if reliance upon indigenous talent, 
 and the new law that Japanese industrial undertakings must 
 be represented by Japanese, are not carried to an extrava- 
 gant point, the next decade or two may see the vast reforms 
 not only matured, but carried onwards to a summit undreamt 
 of, when, in 1868, the country was released from the chains 
 
338 Appendix. 
 
 of ages ; or even when a score of years later his present 
 Imperial Majesty, the 121st Mikado and Emperor ofhis race, 
 voluntarily gave the nation one of the clearest constitutions 
 in existence " in consideration of the progi-essive tendency of 
 the course of human affairs and in parallel with the advance 
 of civilization." 
 
 Concurrent Growth of British Interests. 
 
 2. — There is nothing more striking in this transformation 
 than the constant growth of British interests in the Empire, 
 with which it has been attended. 
 
 Illustrated by large numbers of British Residents 
 AND Mercantile Firms and proportion of Trade 
 AND Shipping. 
 
 This is clearly illustrated by the following notable 
 facts : — 
 
 (a) That British residents, numbering 1500 souls, of which 
 two-thirds are males, equal numerically the representatives 
 in Japan of the whole of the rest of the world, excluding the 
 adjacent Chinese. 
 
 (3) That a like state of affairs exists with regard not only 
 to the number of foreign mercantile firms, located in Japan, 
 but also in the proportion borne by the British flag of the 
 external trade. 
 
 (c) That since 1868, the first year of the new Japanese 
 era, British shipping in the waters of Japan has, according 
 to the calculation of her Majesty's Consul at Kobe, increased 
 threefold in number and fifteenfold in tonnage. It carried 
 last year two-thirds of the (extra Chinese) foreign trade, and 
 71 per cent, of the whole, in over 1000 ships inwards and out- 
 wards, giving employment to more than 25,000 persons, and 
 this notwithstanding the harassing exclusion of foreign 
 vessels from any share in the large coasting trade between 
 other than the six open ports. 
 
 Volume of Japanese External Trade. 
 
 3. — The external trade (imports and exports) of Japan has 
 more than doubled in the past ten years. It amounted in 
 1 890 to 1 38 J mil] ions of silver yen or dollars ^say 2 1 ,000,000/. 
 
 ' The figures are expressed in yen as being more accurate than 
 the taking of an arbitrary rate of exchange, when it is constantly 
 
Appendix. 339 
 
 sterling) against 62J million yens in 1881. The exports, of 
 which the British Empire took nearly a third, amounted to 
 S4f million dollars ; the imports to 8i| millions. 
 
 The Foreign Element as a Source of Wealth to 
 Japan. 
 
 4. — The financial value to the Empire of the foreign com- 
 mercial houses is shown by the passage, through their 
 agency, of no million dollars worth of the total external 
 trade. 
 
 There is in addition the expenditure of many thousands of 
 foreign visitors to the natural beauties of the country — of 
 which 70 per cent, are calculated by Mr. Gubbins, secretary 
 for Japanese to Her Majesty's Legation, to be British, — a 
 sum estimated at an extreme minimum of three million 
 dollars a year, or about 500,000/. 
 
 The Passport System and Disability of Foreigners. 
 
 There is hope that these important considerations may 
 lead ere long to a modification of the stringent passport regu- 
 lations, and of the disability attaching to the alien tenure of 
 real estate, hindering as it must do the permanent invest- 
 ment of capital. 
 
 Proportion of External Trade with several 
 Foreign Countries. 
 
 ;. — Foreign countries shared or divided in 1890 the ex- 
 ternal trade of Japan in the following proportions : — 
 
 {a) Great Britain 320 million dollars. 
 
 \b) British Colonial Empire ... 27'o ,, „ 
 
 Total British Flag 59,600,000. dols. 
 
 (c) United States 26"o million dollars. 
 
 {d) China I4'8 „ „ 
 
 \e) France i4'o „ „ 
 
 (y) German 9'o „ „ 
 
 (^) Corea (adjacent) 5'6 „ „ 
 
 Qi) Belgium 10 „ „ 
 
 All other countries less than 
 one million dollars each, 
 and aggregating 9-4 „ „ 
 
 varying to the great inconvenience of commerce. A Japanese 
 yen or dollar fluctuates in value between 3J. id. to y. ajl. An 
 average of 6 dollars 20 cents, is usually obtained for the sove- 
 reign. 
 
 Z 2 
 
340 Appendix. 
 
 Purchases by Japan of British Goods. 
 
 6.— The purchases by Japan from the British Empire ex- 
 ceeded 41 million dollars (say 6,750,000)?.). of which 26^ 
 millions worth were obtained from the United Kingdom. 
 
 Unfortunately, however, a not inconsiderable proportion of 
 the imports credited to Great Britian, are stated to have 
 been of German, Belgian, or other foreign make, and al- 
 though obtained through English houses, the advantage to 
 the artisan community at home was thereby materially 
 reduced. 
 
 False Marking. 
 
 The observations on this head of Consul Longford, in his 
 report for 1886, are still deserving of attention : — 
 
 " While fully recognizing that it is only reasonable and 
 right that English merchants in Japan should go to those 
 producing centres which show the greatest readiness to meet 
 and satisfy their demands, it is at the same time unfortunate 
 that they should import the goods which they obtained from 
 Germany with English marks and chops on them, even 
 though the latter are only intended to acquaint native dealers 
 with the name of the firm supplying them and not in any 
 sense to designate the country of origin or production . . . 
 for means are thus placed in the hands of the Japanese 
 middlemen or the ultimate retailer, which may aid him con- 
 siderably in selling (inferior goods) as English." 
 
 Merchandise Marks Acts. 
 
 The enactment in the United Kingdom of the Merchandise 
 Marks Act of 1887, so largely due to the Cutlers' Company, 
 has no doubt modified this evil at its ba!se. It has not, how- 
 ever, stamped it out, partly because foreign goods can still 
 be imported into England, plain and devoid of any indica- 
 tion of origin, and the detection of subsequent false marking 
 by the few dishonest, prior to home sale or foreign exporta- 
 tion, is practically impossible ; and partly because few 
 foreign nations have adopted a corresponding law, or if they 
 have, it is rarely enforced. 
 
 The Japanese Trade Mark Regulations of October, 1884, 
 do not touch the question, and moreover have been judicially 
 held, so Mr. Consul Hall informs me, not to apply to 
 foreigners or foreign goods. 
 
Appendix. 34 1 
 
 Purchases by Japan of Sheffield Goods. 
 
 7- — The purchases by Japan from Great Britain of those 
 productions of iron, steel, and hardware, in which Sheffield 
 is mainly interested, compare favourably with those from 
 other foreign nations. 
 
 Iron Pig, Bars, Rods, Rails, etc. 
 
 8. — In pig iron, iron bars, rods, plates, sheets, and rails, 
 Japan bought last year from England 1,424,000 dollars worth 
 (say 235,000/.) against one-fourth that amount from Germany, 
 and only 20,000 dollars worth from France. Even this large 
 figure shows some shrinkage on the British import in 
 1888-89, while the German, although so far behind, has in- 
 creased. 
 
 Pipes and Tubes. 
 
 9. — In iron pipes and tubes Great Britian supplied Japan 
 in i8go with 159,000 j^w worth, put of a total purchase of 
 1 66,000 dollars — an increase of 98,000 dollars worth in two 
 years. 
 
 Nails. 
 
 10. — In nails, however. Great Britain has fallen behind 
 and given place to Germany. Indeed, her Majesty's Con- 
 sul at Yokohama says in his report for last year : — 
 
 " The consumption of wire nails is steadily increasing. 
 The demand for nail rod is now almost extinct — manufac- 
 tured nails being taken instead. These nails are now 
 mostly of German, and a few of Belgian origin." 
 
 This is corroborated by the purchase from England of 
 nails Slaving fallen from 342,000 dollars worth in 1888 to 
 134,000 dollars worth in i8go. 
 
 Screws. 
 
 This is the more remarkable as in iron screws. Great 
 Britain holds the market with a supply of 70,000 dollars 
 worth in 1890, against only 20CO dollars worth by Germany, 
 and a like amount by France. 
 
 Steel. 
 
 II. — In steel 162,000 dollars worth was obtained from 
 England out of a gross importation amounting to 194,000, 
 
342 Appendix. 
 
 France supplying 23,300 dollars worth, and Germany, subject 
 to the observations in paragraph 5, only 3900 dollars. 
 
 Mr. Consul Troup has observed "that the steel imported 
 by the Government for the making of barrels at the small- 
 arms factory at Tokio, and for the Osaka arsenal is mostly 
 French, German, or Italian, and at the Yokosuka dockyard 
 there is a certain preference for Creuzot steel." 
 
 With the approval of the Minister for Foreign Affairs, 
 whose great courtesy I take leave to acknowledge, and by 
 permission of the Minister of War, I visited the Osaka 
 arsenal to ascertain the cause. 
 
 Osaka Arsenal. 
 
 12. — It is an admirably organized institution with canal 
 service direct to the sea, provided with the best English, 
 German, French, Italian, and Austrian machinery, employ- 
 ing 1400 hands at an average wage of ten pence for a ten 
 hours' day, and turning out 24-ton guns, besides all other 
 material for a standing army, 80,000 strong, formed on the 
 French model with German improvements, and reserves 
 240,000 in number, but deficient in officers. 
 
 Advantage of the Metric Scale. 
 
 The Director, Lieutenant-Colonel T. Ota of the Imperial 
 Artillery and European trained, was so good as to give me 
 for the Cutlers' Company, on hearing that it included the 
 members of the great iron and steel firms, a complete set of 
 photographs, illustrating the workshops, the guns, and the 
 target experiments. He expressed himself as fully sensible 
 of the excellence of the metal manufactures of Sheffield, and 
 their superiority, both in cost, quality, and workmanship, for 
 original productions. ' Upon the other hand, though, he 
 frankly said that there was so much risk of error in the 
 measurement by " feet " and by " inches," that it saved much 
 anxiety and trouble, when specific and exact size was requii'ed 
 to order from Creuzot, or from Krupp, in the metric scale, 
 adopted by Japan of " metres and millimetres." One well- 
 known English firm has in consequence, I understand, 
 determined to follow the German example, and to render 
 specifications to foreign governments or individuals in their 
 own lineal and currency calculations. 
 
 Partiality of Students for Country of 
 Education. 
 13. — In this connection the Consul at Yokohama calls 
 
Appendix. 343 
 
 attention , to another important matter. He says " the 
 Government official prefers the material of the country where 
 he has received his training." 
 
 The Japanese authorities have in the last fifteen years 
 sent large numbers of students to Europe. Many have given 
 since their return solid proof of their industry, persevera'nce, 
 and natural aptitude. More than one Continental Cabinet 
 has taken an active interest in these students. But not so, 
 I understand, her Majesty's Government Several have 
 consequently gone to France, Germany, Austria, and Italy, 
 who might with advantage have come to England, as well as 
 those studying ship-building and engineering. It is a 
 matter not to be lost sight of in the future, for there are 
 other backward lands likely to be stimulated by the bright 
 example of Japan, and to endeavour to follow it. 
 
 Cutlery, Table Knives. 
 
 14. — The imports of cutlery have averaged 21,000 dollars 
 (say 3000/.) during each of the past three years, and practi- 
 cally the whole came from Sheffield. It is a trade capable, I 
 believe, of great development. At the present time, the use 
 of table cutlery is confined to the foreign population and 
 visitors, and to a small proportion of the Japanese, perhaps 
 100,000 out of the forty millions. 
 
 But this number is likely to increase every year, and, in- 
 deed, every day, as European ideas, habits, and costume, 
 encouraged, by the Imperial Court, the nobility, and the 
 leaders of commerce and thought, gain a firmer foothold. 
 It is illustrated inter alia by the wide adoption of English 
 head gear on the top of the native costume, and the con- 
 sequent importation of a million dollars worth of English 
 hats and caps in the last triennial period. 
 
 Encouragement of Table Cutlery. 
 
 At a recent industrial conference with some of my con- 
 stituents, an artisan asked if nothing could be done to 
 encourage Eastern races to abandon "chop sticks" in 
 favour of knives and forks. The question created some 
 amusement, but it showed much intelligence and acurnen. 
 It has since occurred to me that possibly advantage might 
 be taken of the Japanese and Oriental generous custom of 
 present-giving to stimulate a taste for our cutlery, by 
 enabling donors to obtain at a small cost a gift knife and 
 fork, attractively got up either upon a card or in a case. 
 In any case an experiment would not be ruinous. 
 
344 Appendix. 
 
 Razors, Scissors, and Pocket Knives. 
 
 15. — I have obtained for the information of the Sheffield 
 trade, specimens of the razors, scissors, and pocket knives 
 now in use among the Japanese, and shall on my return 
 forward them to the Cutlers' Hall. As will be seen, they 
 are of a very rough and primitive description. 
 
 Skill of Japanese as Cutlers. 
 
 Time was when, according to Professor Rein, the German 
 scientist sent by the Prussian Government to report upon 
 " The Industries of Japan," " among the nations of Eastern 
 Asia the Japanese were known as skilful workers in iron, 
 which their celebrated armourers transformed into famous 
 weapons of excellent steel. The forging and polishing of 
 swords was a wearisome work demanding much skill and 
 practice. The tempering of the edge was carefully done in 
 the charcoal furnace, the softer backs and sides being sur- 
 rounded up to a certain point by fire clay, so that only the 
 edge remained outside. The cooling was in cold water. 
 Skilful sword cutlers gained for themselves high social 
 position, and won great glory and fame with their swords." 
 
 It now survives only in collections of old weapons. An 
 Imperial edict forbade the carrying of swords, and in a few 
 weeks the most costly arms were a glut in the market. 
 
 Demand for Razors. 
 
 It is noteworthy that the Japanese very rarely allow any 
 hair to grow upon the face, and the humblest peasant is 
 regularly shaved by the barber, "dry," and with a rude 
 handleless razor. 
 
 There is scope here. Indeed, a contract has just been 
 concluded with an English house in Japan, for the supply 
 of a considerable quantity of soft " German " steel, for the 
 blocking out of razors, and I noticed one considerable shop- 
 keeper announcing himself as " manufacturer of all kinds of 
 European hardware." 
 
 Locomotive and other Engines. 
 
 16. — In locomotive engines Great Britain supplied Japan 
 in 1890 with 474,000 dollars worth out of a total of 659,000 
 dollars, Germany following with 81,000 dollars worth, and 
 the United States with rather more than half that sum. In 
 other engines and boilers 253,000 dollars worth came from 
 
Appendix. 345 
 
 England out of a total import of 345,000 dollars, while of 
 railway carriages the United Kingdom supplied 10,000/. 
 worth, or the whole save 600/. 
 
 Zinc. 
 
 17. — In zinc, however, Germany took the lead with con- 
 signments amounting to 141,000 dollars against 89,000 from 
 Great Britain. As the prosperity of the country advances 
 the use of zinc, especially for roofing purposes, is likely to 
 increase. 
 
 Woollens and Flannels. 
 
 18. — While in woollen cloths England holds her own in 
 Japan with the supply of three-fifths of a gross import ex- 
 ceeding last year a million dollars, she falls far behind in 
 woollen yarns and flannels. In the former Germany led in 
 the proportion of 34 to i, and in the latter by a sale of 
 715,000 dollars worth out of 927,000 dollars, and I under- 
 stand that the representative of a well-known English house 
 recently found the trade much overrun and business exceed- 
 ingly difiScult. 
 
 Apprehended Decline of English Cotton Trade. 
 
 19. — It is, however, the cotton trade of Lancashire which 
 is likely to feel a serious change ere long in its relations with 
 Japan. Her Majesty's commercial representatives have 
 given warning of it for some time, and shown not only the 
 danger to be apprehended by English operatives from the 
 competition and cheap labour of India, but also from the 
 establishment of cotton spinning factories in Japan, and the 
 growing preference for the home made article. 
 
 In 1885 there were only 62,000 Japanese spindles at work. 
 Now there are over 313,000 in 35 mills. Some have not 
 done well owing to defective management. But others are 
 working day and night. The importation of raw cotton has 
 quadrupled in the last three years, while that of cotton on 
 the seeds has doubled. A million dollars worth of the most 
 improved British spinning machinery was laid down last 
 year, and much attention is being given to the cultivation of 
 the cotton plant, although, owing to the typhoons, with in- 
 different success. 
 
 While British cotton velvets, satins, and handkerchiefs 
 have not lost ground, and grey shirtings, T cloths, and 
 
34^ Appendix. 
 
 Italian cloths came almost entirely from England, as also 
 turkey reds and victoria lawns, the work of the Japanese 
 mills is evidenced by a decline in the importation of cotton 
 yarns by over three million dollars since 1888, of which two 
 million fell on Great Britain, and a diminution in the pur- 
 chase of foreign cotton drills' by two-thirds. In shawls also 
 there has been a shrinkage. 
 
 A Fresh Market for Lancashire. 
 
 It is clear, therefore, that Manchester will have before 
 long to a great extent to replace her Japanese market, of 
 which she had, until lately, a monopoly. This may probably 
 be done most advantageously and effectively in the direction 
 of United Empire trade. 
 
 Proposed Increase of Japanese Tariff. 
 
 20. — Closely allied with this question is the almost certain 
 increase in a year or two of the Japanese tariff. The amount 
 collected at the present time by the Customs Bureau (whose 
 returns are compiled with much care and despatch) comes to 
 about 5 per cent, ad valorem (60 cents per 100 catties or 
 i33ilbs. of steel, and 30 cents per 100 catties of manufac- 
 tured iron in rods, bars, etc., and 15 cents per 100 catties of 
 pig), and yielded last year 4,488,384 dollars, or nearly double 
 the customs revenue of 1881. 
 
 It is highly probable that this rate will be doubled, or even 
 increased to 11 or 12 per cent, in accordance with the 
 demand of national manufacturers and operatives. 
 
 Powerlessness of Her Majesty's Government. 
 
 Partiality of the Japanese for the 
 
 English. 
 
 21. — Under present fiscal conditions in the United 
 Kingdom Her Majesty's Government is powerless to 
 negotiate for a special arrangement as regards England. 
 Were we differently situated it is not impossible that the 
 Emperor's Government might be willing to treat pre- 
 ferentially with Great Britain, not only by reason of the 
 preponderance of British interests in Japan and Japanese 
 waters, but also on account of the popular partiality through- 
 out the empire for our countrymen and their productions. 
 This is evidenced in a thousand ways in the national life of 
 this most attractive people, and not least of all by the 
 
Appendix. 347 
 
 ailoption of English as the secondary official and commercial 
 language/ to an extent so great as to render it ample for 
 travel in all but the remote districts. 
 
 A Close Alliance with Japan most Desirable. 
 
 22.— It is much to be desired that this feeling may receive 
 all possible encouragement. No question is likely to disturb 
 the harmony of Anglo-Japanese relations, and no alliance 
 is calculated to be of greater mutual advantage to both 
 nations. 
 
"BRITISH INTERESTS IN CHINA." 
 
 REPORT TO CENTRAL SHEFFIELD. 
 
 Having regard to the apprehension caused by the danger 
 in which foreigners in China have been lately placed, many 
 of my constituents desire to know the result of recent 
 inquiries at Peking and elsewhere, into the condition of 
 affairs as affecting British Trade and Industrial 
 Employment. I have the honour, therefore, to submit the 
 following report. 
 
 The details have been collected partly from official sources 
 and partly from the views of authorities in various spheres 
 who have favoured me with opinions founded for the most 
 part upon long personal experience. 
 
 Extent of Chinese Empire. 
 
 I. — It may be desirable, in the first place, to call to mind 
 the area and population of the Chinese Dominions, and the 
 system of government. 
 
 The Empire of China proper is about 1,500,000 square 
 miles in extent, or twelve and a half times the size of the 
 United Kingdom ; sevenfold the area of France or of 
 Germany ; yet less than one-sixth the British Empire. To 
 this must be added the dependencies of Mongolia, Manchuria, 
 Thibet, &c., say 2,000,000 square miles. 
 
 Population. 
 
 2. — This vast and productive Empire, bordered upon the 
 West and South-West by the possessions of the British in 
 India and Burmah, and by Thibet ; upon the North by Asiatic 
 Russia, and upon the South-East by French Indo-China, is 
 estimated to contain about four hundred millions of what 
 an English authority has described as "the most cheerfully 
 industrious, orderly, and wealthy nation in Asia." 
 
Appendix. 349 
 
 The Emperor of China. 
 
 3. — Over thetn despotically reigns, from the absolute 
 seclusion enforced by tradition of The Forbidden City at 
 Peking, the youthful descendant of The Conqueror who, two 
 centuries and a half ago, placed for the second time the 
 Tartar sceptre over the Chinese, and assumed the style of 
 " The Son of Heaven." 
 
 The Crown does not devolve by primogeniture, but by the 
 posthumously declared selection of the reigning Emperor 
 among the male members of a younger line of the Imperial 
 House. 
 
 The Imperial Government. 
 
 4. — The Central Government is regulated by an Inner 
 Chamber, a Grand Council, and the following six Ministries 
 or Boards : (a) Civil Office, {b) Revenue, (c) War, {d) Works, 
 («) Ceremonies, (/) Punishments. Each Board is composed 
 of Manchus (Tartars) and Chinese in equal numbers, with 
 two Presidents — a system excluding individual power or 
 responsibility. 
 
 The executive orders go from the Throne, and are obtained, 
 according to ancient custom, on petitions presented by the 
 Presidents of Boards or Members of the Grand C(Juncil,_upon 
 their knees, at or before sunrise, — the course of the Vermilion 
 Pencil of the sovereign being, it is said, much influenced by 
 the Empress Dowager, who, during the Imperial minority of 
 seventeen years, skilfully administered the Regency. 
 
 Foreign Affairs. 
 
 5. — The relations of China with Foreign Powers are con- 
 ducted through a special Board or office — the " Tsung-Li- 
 Yamen," — consisting of eleven members of the Grand Council 
 and six Chief Secretaries, a considerable number, of whom, 
 with a large retinue of servants, receive, round a sweetmeat- 
 covered table, the official visits of diplomatic representatives. 
 This collective conduct of state business, added to the 
 difficulties of a language which, although monosyllabic, 
 contains over 20,000 characters, and the necessity of all 
 communications passing through interpreters (except in the 
 case of the French Minister, who speaks Chinese), much 
 restrains and practically prohibits the confidential and 
 personal negotiations which, in other countries, so much 
 facilitate the satisfactory conclusion of public affairs. 
 
3 5 o Appendix. 
 
 Provincial Administration. 
 
 6. — For purposes of provincial administration, China is 
 divided into several Viceroyalties, each invested with a large 
 amount of sovereign power, including taxation, internal order 
 and defence. It is subject, however, to many ingenious 
 checks. In the first place, a Tartar General is attached to 
 each Viceroy, in a semi-independent position, and his assent 
 to many administrative matters is essential. Secondly, there 
 is a rule against the appointment of a Chinese Viceroy over 
 any province or provinces whereof he is a native. There is 
 also the vigilance of a Board of Censors, established i6o 
 years B.C., and theoretically consisting "of the most en- 
 lightened, righteous, and firm persons," whose duty it is to 
 warn the Emperor direct of anything done to the public 
 detriment, not excepting even Imperial laches ; for the 
 Chinese maxim runs — " To violate the law is the same crime 
 in the Emperor as in a subject." 
 
 There are, within the Viceroyalties, i8 provinces, over 
 each of which is an Imperially-appointed Governor, a Trea- 
 surer, a Judge and Comptrollers of the Salt Monopoly and 
 the Grain Tribute. Every province is again subdivided into 
 prefectures, departments, districts, and townships under 
 small Mandarins, and into village communes under Head- 
 men.' 
 
 The territories of Mongolia and Manchuria are adminis- 
 tered martially ; in Thibet and Corea there are " Residents " 
 representing the Chinese Suzerain. 
 
 The Mandarinate. 
 
 7, — The Mandarinate is notlhereditary, save in the case of 
 ■a few princely families, largely debarred from public life, and 
 the still surviving house of Confucius, which was elevated to 
 a Dukedom, 1500 years after the death of its founder, in 
 479 B.C. 
 
 Public Offices. 
 
 Public Offices are filled by nominated Mandarins of 
 various grades. They obtain their posts partly by pro- 
 ficiency in successive urban, provincial, metropolitan, and 
 palace open competitive examinations in Chinese classical 
 lore, and partly by purchase or judicious bribery. 
 
 The former literary tests were established twelve centuries 
 ago, and at least 1 100 years before merit or study had much 
 place in European patronage. 
 
Appendix. 35 1 
 
 The brilliant graduate of humble origin rarely lacks, more- 
 over, the pecuniary support necessary for the prosecution of 
 his studies, or for official recognition of his examination 
 laurels. Localities, banks, and capitalists are usually ready' 
 to stand behind a man of promise, as an investment, to be 
 liberally recouped by ulterior " squeeze," — on his attaining 
 place, — smally paid in itself, however exalted, but prolific in 
 indirect sources of enrichment. 
 
 Influence of the Literati. 
 
 ■ 8. — Nothing is declared to press so heavily upon the social, 
 political, and national progress of China, as the adverse 
 influence of the " educated " classes. So it was even in the 
 time of the great monarch who, 200 years before Christ, con- 
 solidated the Chinese Empire, and built the still-enduring 
 Great Wall, in hopes of thereby defeating Tartar incursions. 
 To overcome the opposition of the Literati, he ordered all 
 their books to be destroyed. But the fact remains that the 
 vigorous heads among the people, who, in other lands, have 
 had to carve their forward path, by agitation and revolution, 
 through the barriers of social rank, caste, and the privileges 
 of wealth, have had for ages in China an open avenue to 
 advancement. 
 
 Thus it is that the student tendency, instead of being, as 
 in every other part of the world, in the direction of reform, 
 is applied to the most absolute maintenance of the present 
 system, and to the rejection alike of the methods and 
 appliances of the Western world. 
 
 Students sent to Europe. 
 
 9. — It is true that a few youths have, from time to time, 
 been sent to Europe and America, but their studies have 
 been either cut short, or the palace circle has succeeded in 
 relegating them, on return, to distant posts. Some also have 
 gone back, not imbued, like the Japanese, with ardent 
 enthusiasm for reforms, but apparently more embittered than 
 ever against the foreigner.' How little influence they have 
 
 ^ A Chinese literate, who had been to Paris for study, expressed 
 his opinions of Europe in the following terms. He freely acknow- 
 ledged the superiority of our intellectual enterprise, without being 
 at all persuaded that it was a thing for which we were to be 
 envied: — "The eyes of your intelligence," he used to say, "are 
 more piercing than ours, but you look so far that you do not see 
 
352 Appendix. 
 
 had, and how little is really known of the West, may be 
 illustrated by the belief said to have been expressed by a 
 provincial functionary in high office, that foreigners came 
 to China, from the barren rock of Europe, to obtain 
 " rice " as a means of subsistence ; and to the opinion of 
 another, that we owed scientific progress, not to our own 
 discoveries, but to having obtained a copy of the ancient 
 Chinese classics, saved from the above-mentioned Imperial 
 destruction. 
 
 National Result. 
 
 ID. — The national result is that, although recent events 
 have hastened forvyard the completion of a telegraph 
 system, there is throughout the Chinese Empire but one 
 short railway, no proper road communication, and defective 
 attention to the unrivalled waterways, no uniform system of 
 taxation, no reliable administration of justice, no Chinese 
 currency (other than brass cash), no postal system, and 
 little regard for the public health and welfare ; yet, where- 
 withal, there is great respect for private property and the 
 due transmission of the small holdings into which the land is 
 divided. 
 
 Prospect of Reform. 
 
 II. — That a people sometimes accounted " the active race 
 of mankind " ; as keen and reliable in business as any in the 
 universe ; the reputed first inventors of the mariner's compass, 
 of gunpowder, of ink, printing, and paper (which have con- 
 tributed so much to England's greatness), should be content 
 with such a condition of things may well pass belief. Am- 
 bassadors have of late been sent to Europe, Diplomatists, 
 consuls, traders, and missionaries have endeavoured to show 
 
 about you. You have a bold spirit which must make you success- 
 ful in many things ; but you have not enough respect for what 
 deserves to be respected. This perpetual agitation in which you 
 live, this constant want of diversion, clearly indicates that you 
 are not happy. With you, a, man is always as if he were on a 
 journey, whereas we like to be at rest. As to your governments, I 
 am willing to believe they have some good in them ; but if they 
 suited you as well as ours suits us, you would not change them 
 so often as you do. I am quite sure to find, when I go back to 
 my country, the same institutions as when I left it ; «md I see 
 that not one of you would guarantee me, for even a couple of years; 
 the solidarity of your government as it is to-day." 
 
Appendix. 353 
 
 the light. The example of Japan is at hand. Yet no man 
 can say, upon any foundation of actual fact, that a change is 
 probable or imminent. 
 
 It is true that fully two millions of industrious Chinese 
 emigrants can testify to their speedy acquirement of com- 
 parative wealth under happier conditions, despite laws of 
 exclusion in America. The majority are said, however, to 
 return quietly home and settle down (awaiting interment in 
 one of the family burial places which cover the surface of 
 the country and,, much prevent the sale of land) to that 
 worship of ancestors, filial obedience, and veneration for 
 authority, which are quoted with pride as contrasting 
 favourably " with a society where each generation despises 
 the one which immediately preceded it, and strains after the 
 future without respect to the past." 
 
 Want of Leaders. 
 
 12. — There is also an undoubted want of men willing to 
 champion, or capable of lea ding, a party of reform. 
 
 The two most conspicuous statesmen in the Empire — and, 
 indeed, the only ones — are the Viceroy of the Metropolitan 
 Province of Chilhi, and the Viceroy of Hupeh. 
 
 The former is His Excellency Li Hung Chang, who, for 
 40 years, has possessed a great and beneficial influence. To 
 the viceregal functions are united those of Grand Secretary 
 of the Empire and Commissioner for Northern Trade, in 
 which capacity His Excellency is consulted on all foreign 
 and naval matters. He has the forts on the Peiho in good 
 order, the troops well trained and armed — not with match- 
 locks or bows and arrows, as in other viceroyalties, but 
 with modern weapons, replenished from arsenals at Tientsin, 
 under foreign direction. A railway ' runs, moreover, under 
 
 ' Owing to the multitudes of men who find employment in China 
 by tracking or towing junks and boats up and down the rivers, 
 canals, and other waterways, once in a splendid condition, but now 
 much neglected, as also in canning tea, salt, and other produce on 
 their backs, over paths inaccessible to horse or cart, there is as 
 much, or more, popular prejudice against railways as prevailed 
 in England 60 years ago. One writer says : — " Whenever the 
 effects of our scientific machnery in abridging labour are explained 
 to a Chinaman, the first idea that strikes him is the disastrous effect 
 that such a system would work upon his over-peopled country, if 
 suddenly introduced into it, and he never fails to depirecate such 
 an innovation as the most calamitous of visitations." 
 
 A a 
 
354 Appendix. 
 
 English management, to the Gulf of Pechilhi, and its 
 extension to within 14 miles of Peking was once authorized, 
 but subsequently disallowed. 
 
 Unfortunately, Li Hung Chang, who has given not a few 
 proofs of his good-will and preference for England, is over 
 70 years of age, and his brother, the Viceroy of Canton, who 
 also vainly seeks to build a railway to Kowloon, opposite 
 Hongkong, is still older. 
 
 His Excellency Chang Chih Tung, Viceroy of Hupeh and 
 Houan, is a different stamp of man, in the prime of life, and 
 energetic. But the regeneration of the Chinese must be, he 
 contends, by the Chinese, and not by foreigners. To carry 
 out his project of a railway from Hankow to Peking, he was 
 transferred from a superior viceroyalty, and to this end an 
 iron foundry has been established at Hanyang. The rails 
 and the plant are all, however, to be of Chinese make, so 
 that the commencement, not to say the opening of the line, 
 is still in the Greek Kalends. 
 
 Secret Societies. 
 
 13. — The influence of secret societies is also prejudicial to 
 reform. They exist in every province, but their objects are 
 often merely local and devoid of revolutionary aims. Their 
 existence has, however, been put forward upon more than 
 one occasion in extenuation of popular excesses. 
 
 Some, moreover, like the " Kolao Hui," or Association of 
 Elder Brethren, mainly formed of disbanded soldiers eager 
 for employment, have spread widely, and could bring about 
 serious trouble. Others, like the " Broken Coffin Society," 
 so well repressed by the British among the vast Chinese 
 population of the Straits Settlements, have predatory aims. 
 
 it is not, however, thought that the overthrow of the 
 system of government, or of a dynasty, which has extermi- 
 nated its rival, is held in serious contemplation, except by 
 extremists, who may, however, get the upper hand. Very 
 summary proceedings and execution tend to damp the 
 enthusiasm of active agitation. Moreover, the difficulty the 
 Southern Provinces, speaking Cantonese, or the Centre and 
 Western Districts, speaking other dialects, have in making 
 themselves understood by Northerners, speaking Mandarin, 
 or the official language,^ coupled with the practical absence 
 
 ' It is very common lo find that Chinese, meeting on board ship, 
 or elsewhere, with distant countrymen, are obliged to resort lo 
 
Appendix. 355 
 
 of a press (besides the Official Gazette), restrains revolu- 
 tionary propaganda by means more effectual than police 
 edicts. 
 
 Intercourse with Foreign Nations. 
 
 14. — At the same time the intercourse of China with the 
 outer world has undergone frequent change, and especially 
 during the present generation. The leading incentor to 
 French activity in the Far East, says — " Yesterday Chinese 
 trade did not exist for Europe, but to-day it puts thousands 
 of arms in motion in England, and amounts to millions." 
 
 This is literally true. The Dutch and the Portuguese 
 were before us. Even as early as A.D. 971, a superintendent 
 was appointed at Ningpo to overlook foreign trade, and 
 before that, there was such a functionary stationed at 
 Canton. Until the latter part of the last century the British 
 flag had hardly appeared. But . now we have outstripped 
 the competition of the whole of the world. 
 
 Fifty years ago England sent to China barely half a 
 million worth of goods. The first war Her Majesty was 
 obliged to wage in the interests of British trade, brought 
 about the opening of new ports, and in 1844 the English 
 exports to the China Sea exceeded ;^2,30o,ooo. Then were 
 forced upon us the operations of 1857-58, and the war of 
 i860, resulting in the Treaty of Peking. Within the next 
 decade British commerce rose to ;f 9,000,000 a year. Now 
 it is half as much again. Apart, then, from the indemnity, 
 and the anterior cession of Hongkong, become one of the 
 greatest, as well as most beautiful, ports in the world, the 
 cost of the operations has been defrayed many times over 
 in increased wages to British artisans. 
 
 Benefit to China. 
 
 15. — Nor has the advantage been one-sided. The gain to 
 China has been even greater. The value of the Chinese 
 foreign trade for 1890 is given by Sir Robert Hart, the 
 Inspector-General of the Imperial Maritime Customs (an 
 EngHshman whose eminent services to China receive uni- 
 versal recognition), at 214 million Haikwan taels (the average 
 value of which, for last year, was 1$. z^d), say, in round 
 numbers, ;^53,ooo,ooo, or double the total of a few years ago, 
 while in the last decennial period the imports have increased 
 by 48 million taels, and the exports by 9 millions. 
 
 " Pidgeon " or English business jargon as their only means of 
 linguistic communication , 
 
 A a 2 
 
356 Appendix. 
 
 Treaty Ports. 
 
 1 5. — Under various treaties, mainly negotiated by England, 
 twenty-one ports and places have been opened for foreign 
 trade and residence, of which five are on the River Yangtze, 
 penetrating over a thousand miles into the heart of the 
 interior. Two other places were added in i88g, under 
 agreement with France. 
 
 At most treaty ports a portion of the urban area has been 
 assigned to the foreign community, who are left free to 
 provide for its regulations-r-a duty which is usually dis- 
 charged by the help of tolls on shipping and house rates, 
 as to roads, lighting, public conveyances, and buildings, in 
 a manner which sets the most successful example of muni- 
 cipal work to the neighbouring native administration. 
 
 Duty upon Foreign Goods. 
 
 17. — An import and an export duty, each averaging 5 per 
 cent, ad valorem, is levied upon goods conveyed in foreign 
 vessels, which are, upon the other hand, exempted from the 
 " Likin " or war tax, and freely granted transit passes, clear- 
 ing them from the prefectural tolls, which do not a little to 
 embarrass the native trader in the interior. 
 
 The duty upon foreign goods is collected by the Imperial 
 Maritime Customs — a splendid service, employing 700 
 Europeans and 4000 Chinese. It yielded, in 1890, a 
 revenue of 22 million taels (say ;^5, 500,000) to the Chinese 
 Government, or a third more than ten years ago, and further 
 supervises the lighting and buoying of the coast. 
 
 Duty upon Native Goods. 
 
 18. — The import and the export duty upon goods conveyed 
 in Chinese junks is levied by the Chinese Customs Service ; 
 and it is said that many shipments are so made to escape 
 the vigilance and the higher taxation of the European Ad- 
 ministration, and are subsequently transferred to foreign 
 bottoms at Hongkong or elsewhere. 
 
 British Share of Foreign Trade. 
 
 19-. — Three-fourths of the entire foreign trade of Chinafell, 
 last year, to the share of the British Empire, or more, by 
 three million taels, than that done by the entire Continent 
 of Europe and the United States of America. The trade 
 
Appendix. 357 
 
 with the United Kingdom, including that passing through 
 Hongkong, exceeded / 15,000,000 
 
 The Commissioners of Customs at Tientsin, Newchwang, 
 Ningpo, and other treaty ports, all speak of " the increased 
 demand for British goods," in spite of much distress last 
 year, owing to floods in many places ; and while Shanghai 
 reports that " German figures fall off decidedly,'' the Com- 
 missioner at Kinkiang states that " the British and Chinese 
 had all the trade to themselves." 
 
 British Shipping in Chinese Waters. 
 
 20. — This fortunate state of affairs is strikingly illustrated 
 by the British shipping in Chinese waters. The red ensign 
 of England, which appeared on the first steamer in the 
 Yellow Sea, in 1830, floated in i8go upon 16,897 of the 
 20,530 foreign vessels which entered and cleared at Chinese 
 ports, while the British tonnage amounted to fths of the 
 whole. 
 
 Our next competitors were the Germans, with whom we 
 have so much in common, and who are sparing no effort to 
 develop their China trade. They entered and cleared 2140 
 vessels last year, or 622 fewer than in 1888, with a diminu- 
 tion of 227,000 tons burthen. 
 
 A good proportion of the coast-carrying trade was also 
 done by British-built steamers, carrying the dragon flag, 
 and wholly owned by Chinese merchants. But, with very 
 few exceptions, insurance companies and underwriters insist 
 upon such vessels being commanded and officered by British 
 or Americans. Besides this, the majority of the pilots on 
 the Peiho and other rivers are British, a state of affairs 
 pointing to the necessity of nothing being omitted by the 
 Board of Trade to afford every possible facility to the 
 merchant marine to acquire the technical knowledge 
 necessary to maintain this world-wide reputation of the 
 English for superior nautical skill. 
 
 Preponderance of British Interests. 
 
 21. — These facts show the enormous preponderance of 
 British interests in China, — a condition of things existing 
 also in Japan, — not only over those of the whole world, but 
 especially as regards those of France, Germany, Russia, or 
 any other European power. 
 
 They are corroborated by the establishment in China of 
 327 British firms, or double the number of the mercantile 
 
358 Appendix. 
 
 houses of every other nation, and by the residence at the 
 treaty ports of over 3300 British subjects, out of a total 
 foreign population of about 8000 
 
 Germany comes next with 80 firms and 640 residents ; 
 following her, America, with 32 firms ; and then France, 
 with 19 firms and 590 persons. 
 
 Representation of the British People. 
 
 22. — Under such circumstances the British public cannot 
 be otherwise than glad that Her Majesty the Queen is fitly 
 represented at Peking by what is not unfrequently described 
 in the vernacular as " The Great English Legation." 
 
 The consular service of Britain in China is also manned by 
 some three-score officers, each one of whom is an accom- 
 plished Chinese scholar, a large majority having passed 
 through the arduous Student Interpreter Course, which 
 is ready to fill junior vacancies, as they occur, with young 
 men evidently as well selected as they are carefully trained. 
 
 Diplomatic and Consular Assistance to British 
 Trades. 
 
 23. — At the same time it would be idle to deny that, in 
 spite of recent improvements, British traders generally com- 
 plain in China, as elsewhere, of the lack of diplomatic and 
 consular assistance in the advancement of English trade, 
 and the apparently little official interest shown therein. 
 
 The French have a like grievance, and the work of 
 German representatives for their nationals is often cited 
 with envy. It is said, though probably with exaggerated 
 truth, that German Ministers and Consuls are unflagging 
 in their efforts to advance German commercial interests, to 
 show that German traders have government recognition and 
 approval, and that the employment of Germans, instead of 
 English or French, is much appreciated by the Emperor 
 William. 
 
 It is possible that the out-of-date view that diplomatic 
 and consular officers are purely political agents may be ex- 
 cessively retained in some instances, and that the assist- 
 ance rendered by Her Majesty's Consuls to British trade 
 might advantageously receive more encouragement and 
 departmental recognition. 
 
 There can be no doubt, however, of the difficulty which 
 would ensue by consular espousal of the interests of a par- 
 ticular firm to the inevitable prejudice of a rival house. 
 
Appendix. 359 
 
 Nor is the prestige small or unimportant which Her 
 Majesty's service derives from the fact that any expressions 
 of opinion, or any advice tendered, are known to be wholly 
 free from any interested motives. 
 
 Iron and Steel Trade in China. 
 
 24. — In examining the position in China of particular in- 
 dustries, attention must first be directed to the iron, steel, 
 and hardware trade. 
 
 The standard work (Williams' " Middle Kingdom ") 
 says : — " Handicraftsmen of every name are content with 
 coarse-looking tools compared with those turned out at 
 Sheffield ; but the work produced by some of them is far 
 from contemptible. The bench of the carpenter is a low, 
 narrow, inclined frame, on which he sits to plane, groove, 
 and work his boards, using his feet and toes to steady them. 
 His augers, bits, and gimlets are worked with a bow ; but 
 most of the edge-tools employed by him and the blacksmith 
 are similar in shape, but less convenient than our own. 
 They are sharpened with bows, on grindstones, and also 
 with a cold steel like a spokeshave, with which the edge is 
 scraped thin. 
 
 " Steel is everywhere manufactured in a rude way, but 
 the foreign importation is gradually supplying a better 
 article." 
 
 ' Importation of Metals. 
 
 25. — This is illustrated by the importation, in 1890, of 
 242,000 taels (60,500/.) worth of steel, besides 800,000 taels 
 worth of iron sheets, plates, bars, hoops, nail rod, pig and 
 old iron, and 500,000 taels worth of copper bars, nails, wire, 
 &.C., — a purchase exceeding 400,000/., — the greater part of 
 which was from the United Kingdom. 
 
 The Statistical Secretary of the Imperial Maritime Cus- 
 toms states that "iron of all kinds maintained, in 1890, a 
 " steady consumption of 1,100,000 piculs (each picul equals 
 133I lbs.), and steel rose from 39,000 to 56,000 piculs, — an 
 increase of 43 per cent.,— although it is noticeable that the 
 import is very variable from year to year." 
 
 The Commissioner at Newchwang states that " importa- 
 tions of metals advanced to the enormous extent of 113 per 
 cent, over 1B89— -the most conspicuous being nail rod;" 
 while his colleague at Tientsin speaks of " the increasing 
 demand for manufactured iron nails, which are cheaper and 
 
360 Appendix. 
 
 better than those made by native blacksmiths;" and Chin- 
 kiang states, from the Central Provinces — " For iron of all 
 kinds, 1890 totals have not been equalled." 
 
 Sheffield Enterprise. 
 
 26. — The enterprise of Sheffield has not been behindhand. 
 In 1843, after the Northern ports had been opened, a Times 
 correspondent reported " that an eminent Sheffield firm 
 sent out a large consignment of knives and forks, and 
 declared themselves prepared to supply all China with cut- 
 lery. The Chinamen, who knew not the use of knives and 
 forks (or, as they say, abandoned the use of them when they 
 became civilized), but toss the rice into their mouths with 
 chopsticks, would not look at these best balanced knives. 
 They were sold at prices which scarcely realized their 
 freight, and shops were for years afterwards adorned with 
 them, formed into devices, like guns in an armoury." 
 
 A somewhat similar fate has attended the efforts of another 
 prominent, but younger firm, whose dust- covered sample 
 cards were shown me in Shanghai. 
 
 Although in 1885 Germany sent a considerable quantity 
 of cutlery to Tientsin, Chefoo, and elsewhere, Sheffield 
 evidently meets the demand of foreign residents as regards 
 table articles, for some of our leading names are present at 
 every meal. 
 
 Demand for Razors. 
 
 27. — The demand for razors is, however, enormous. It is 
 stated that, having regard to the artificially caused excess of 
 the male population, some 180 or 200 millions of men have 
 their heads and faces "painfully" shaved once a week by a 
 razor of the rude specimen I am sending, with others, to the 
 Cutlers' Hall, and which cost about 5 cents, or i\d. Three- 
 quarters of a Chinaman's head is always kept closely shaved, 
 and custom prohibits either whiskers or beards, and even 
 moustaches, unless before then a grandfather ! 
 
 At Canton, a well-known Hallamshire trade-mark is 
 reported as selling freely on razors at 20 cents. But in other 
 places, more removed from British example, I was assured 
 that it is quite hopeless to induce Chinese barbers to adopt 
 the Sheffield shapes, unless they wish to empty their crowded 
 shops. For the Sheffield-made Chinese, pattern, however, a 
 vast demand might possibly be brought about by careful 
 agents, if only it can be done at the low price the' Chinese 
 are willing to pay. 
 
Appendix. 361 
 
 Demand for Large Forcings. 
 
 28. — There is already a considerable request for large 
 forgings, and the arsenals under the control of Englishmen 
 are steadfast believers in the undoubted superiority of English 
 manufacture. But all agree that it is nothing compared to 
 what will come when China really begins to go ahead, and 
 to open up for her people the vast wealth of the Empire. 
 The representatives of Messrs. Krupp and of M. Creuzot 
 are very vigilant, active, and skilful. 
 
 Adoption of Metrical Meas^jrement. 
 
 29. — In connection with this matter, it is important to men- 
 tion that a recommendation is about to go forward from a 
 high authority, to whom attention is paid, that China should 
 adopt, as Japan has already done, the metrical system of 
 measurement of France and Germany. Unless this is 
 fully realized, there may be a loss of valuable business, for 
 although there are measures which render feet and inches 
 in metres and millimetres with the, utmost nicety, foreigners 
 contend that there is sometimes an inevitable plus or minus, 
 which upsets calculations. 
 
 Want of Uniform Monetary Standard. 
 
 30. — In the same direction, too, it may not be amiss to give 
 expression to the general mercantile complaint of the 
 absence of a uniform and international decimal monetary 
 system. Not only are many firms ruined by unexpected 
 and often unaccountable fluctuations of exchange between the 
 29 principal currencies of the world, but the clerical labour 
 involved, not to speak of constant misunderstandings, is 
 stated to be most prejudicial. 
 
 This can be appreciated when it is considered that trade 
 in the East is conducted in rupees, piastres, Mexican and 
 American dollars, Japanese yen, silver shoes, shapes, and 
 bars ; Haikwan, Shanghai, and Tientsin taels — the latter 
 unrepresented by coins or notes, and all varying in value 
 from day to day. The Shanghai tael, for instance, which 
 was worth 4J. 'i\d., on February 28th, 1890, rose to ^s. j^d., 
 by September 5th, — a difference of 23 per cent., — and fell 
 back again 13 per cent, in the next two months. The rupee, 
 too, worth 2s at par, was at a discount of eightpence in 1889, 
 but early in 1890 all but touched is. gd., until, in November, 
 it fell to IS. i^d.— ench penny of fall occasioning not only 
 
362 Appendix. 
 
 great loss to individuals, but it is calculated many thousand 
 lacs of rupees to the Indian Government. 
 
 It is diflScult to say which decimal system has the most 
 advocates,^ — probably dollars and cents, — but all agree that 
 pounds, shillings and pence, and English coins on which 
 the value is not stated, entail more trouble than any standard. 
 
 Cotton Goods. 
 
 31. — The vast present and the enormous future interest 
 Lancashire has in China, as also the British capitalist in 
 India, is shown by the Imperial customs report for 1890. It 
 runs thus : — " Cotton goods bounded upwards in value from 
 36 million taels in 1889, to 45 millions (say 11,000,000/.) in 
 1890 — an increase of 25 per cent. Cotton goods of nearly 
 every texture were infected with the general contagion of 
 increase, and expanding in quantity and value, while cotton 
 yarn, and more particularly that from India, poured into 
 China in a higher ratio of increase than ever heretofore, 
 having risen from 108,000 piculs in 1878, to over a million 
 piculs in 1890, representing 19^^ millions of taels (say nearly 
 5,000,000/.), or 50 per cent, more than in the previous 
 year." 
 
 It is not necessary to add anything to this authoritative 
 statement, unless it be that the French efforts to force their 
 " cotonnade " upon the Annamites, by prohibitory duties 
 upon all foreign goods in Indo-China, are unavailing, and that 
 the prospect before Manchester is unlimited so soon as the 
 South-West of China is opened from Burmah. It is tem- 
 pered only by the establishment of mills to turn Chinese- 
 grown cotton into yarn. 
 
 Woollens. 
 
 32. — In woollen goods there was, in 1890, an importation 
 of 3^ million taels worth — a slight falling off compared with 
 the previous year, mainly in English camlets and lastings. 
 
 Export of Silk. 
 
 33. — Nothing, perhaps, more eloquently exhibits the im- 
 portance of China as a commercial factor in the world, and 
 the necessity of foreign trade to her people, than the silk 
 industry, which employs many tens of thousands of persons. 
 Fifty years ago not a bale was exported, at least to England ; 
 but last year over 3oi million taels' worth were sent abroad. 
 
Appendix. 363 
 
 Even that large quantity showed a falling away, owing to 
 transient circumstances, of i6 per cent, over the previous 
 year. 
 
 The Tea Trade. 
 
 34 — The staple export of China, and the one with which 
 the Celestial Empire is most closely identified in the popular 
 mind, is, of course, her tea. 
 
 In 1670, eighty pounds of China tea were exported into 
 England, and, despite export duties, varying in China and in 
 the United Kingdom from 400 per cent on the productive 
 cost to 100 per cent, at the present time, the trade increased 
 to 108 million pounds in 1880. 
 
 Indian Tea. 
 
 35. — Since then there has, however, been a serious decline, 
 increasing so much, from year to year, as to jeopardize the 
 entire industry. This is declared to be mainly owing to the 
 fortuitous development of tea-planting in India and Ceylon, 
 and to the preference shown by the English consumer for 
 tea of British growth. 
 
 Twelve months after the Queen's accession, 400 lbs. of 
 Indian tea were sent to England as an experiment. In 1890 
 the consignment was over 100,000,000 lbs., and Ceylon sent 
 nearly half as much. The effect has been that, while, in 
 1865, out of every loo lbs. of tea sold in England 97 lbs. 
 were Chinese and only 3 lbs. Indian, in 1890 the Chinese 
 proportion had fallen by about 50 per cent., and the cost to 
 the British tea drinker was also in like degree reduced. 
 
 One reason put forward by the experts, consulted by the 
 Maritime Customs, is that " a good stout tea, that will stand 
 several waterings, is what suits the mass of English con- 
 sumers, and this India provides much better than China." 
 The English merchants at Shangai and Foochow aflfirm, 
 however, that this greater strength is purchased by the 
 retention of deleterious properties. 
 
 Apathy of the Chinese. 
 
 36. — It is in vain that the attention of Chinese cultivators 
 has been called to the condition of the tea industry by all 
 concerned. Moreover, four years ago, the Inspector-General 
 of Customs thus addressed the Imperial authorities : — 
 
 " To a government, its people's industries must be of 
 higher importance than revenue. I would, therefore, advise 
 
364 Appendix. 
 
 that taxes be remitted, in order that industries may be 
 preserved. Think for the people, and forego revenue. 
 Export duties ought to be light, in order that the surplus 
 production of a people may go for sale elsewhere. Import 
 duties, on the contrary, are the duties which ought to be 
 retained ; but the use to be made of each commodity ought 
 to be well weighed. If it is something people cannot do 
 without, it ought to be exempt from duty ; but if it is a luxury, 
 it ought to be heavily taxed. On the right application of 
 these principles depend the nation's wealth, and the people's 
 too." 
 
 Nothing whatever has been done. From Foochow the 
 export has declined by one-half in ten years, and deprived 
 the revenue of a million taels a year, and the people of five 
 million taels in wages. The opinion is indeed general " that 
 the gradual extinction of the China tea trade is practically 
 assured, unless something retards Indian and Ceylon pro- 
 duction, or drastic measures are adopted." 
 
 The " Shanli,'' or hill tax ; the " Likin," or war tax, and 
 the export duty, are all maintained intact, and the unfortu- 
 nate Chinese growers have to compete with the untaxed tea 
 of India and Ceylon. What distress is likely soon to ensue 
 may be gathered from the fact that the production of one- 
 half only of the output of the Assam Company, with its few 
 hundred employes, affords the main sustenance of 4500 
 Chinese families, or, say, about 20,000 persons. They are 
 themselves, moreover, so apprehensive that the introduction 
 of the machinery in vogue in India and Ceylon will diminish 
 employment that the Government has not felt itself strong 
 enough to protect its use. 
 
 Foreign Opium Traffic. 
 
 37. — The opium question excites much interest in England. 
 Some philanthropists have feared that the revenue of over 
 5,000,000/. a year, derived by the Indian Government from 
 the licensed and carefully-restricted cultivation of the raw 
 material of the valuable drug, is in major degree responsible 
 for the reported influence upon the Chinese of opium smok- 
 ing. They may be somewhat reassured by the result of a 
 careful European inquiry, officially instituted throughout the 
 Empire. It shows that imported opium is only smoked by 
 the affluent, the luxurious, and well-to-do, or, at most, by 
 one-third of one per cent, of the population ; that is, by about 
 three per thousand. 
 
 The annual importation used to amount to an average of 
 
Appendix. 365 
 
 100,000 chests, yielding, for smoking, atout 4000 tons of 
 boiled opium. They cost the consumers upwards of 
 17,000,000/., of which 3,000,000/. went to the Chinese revenue. 
 But it is a rapidly declining element in Chinese finances, and 
 the deficit may, before long, have to be made up by increas- 
 ing the duties upon other imports. 
 
 Native Opium. 
 
 38. — Native opium was known, produced, and used in China 
 long before any Europeans began the sale of the foreign 
 drug. The records of the loth century prove this ; and 
 opium figures as an item in the tariff of 1 589, and again in a 
 customs list of the 17th century. Hundreds of square miles 
 are devoted to the cultivation of the poppy, which, accord- 
 ing to the late Dr. Williams, " is now grown in every pro- 
 vince, without any real restraint being anywhere put on it." 
 Native opium sells for half the price of the foreign article, 
 and its smokers are consequently more numerous among 
 the people and younger practitioners {i.e., those from 25 to 35 
 years of age). It is, in short, say the latest reports, '' forcing 
 foreign opium out of consumption with triple energy. " 
 
 Number of Opium Smokers. 
 
 39. — The best authorities concur that the whole of the 
 smokers, of either foreign or native opium, do not exceed 
 two-thirds of one per cent, of the population, or adding a 
 margin, say, seven per thousand (Replies to Circular No. 
 64, Second Series, Inspectorate General of Customs) — a 
 state of aflfaits which is corroborated from the great town of 
 Tientsin, with its million of inhabitants. The Commissioner 
 of Customs reports " that but little opium is consumed, 
 owing to the growing influence of Abstention Societies, the 
 40,000 members of which neither smoke the drug or tobacco, 
 nor drink liquors of any kind." 
 
 Effect of Opium-smoking. 
 
 40. — The effect of opium-smokmg, injurious and wasting of 
 vital power though it may be, is certainly not apparent to 
 the ordinary traveller ; and the American clergyman, whose 
 work on China, founded on the experience of a lifetime, 
 aided by keenest judgment, has been adopted by every 
 foreign legation as the Text Book for aspiring Consuls, thus 
 records his opinion : — 
 
366 Appendix. 
 
 "A dose of opium does not produce the intoxication of 
 ardent spirits, and, so far as the peace of the community and 
 his family are concerned, the smoker is less troublesome 
 than the drunkard. The former never throws the chairs 
 and tables about the room, or drives his wife out of doors 
 in his furious rage ; he never goes reeling through the 
 streets or takes lodgings in the gutter, but, contrariwise, 
 he is quiet and pleasant, and fretful only when the effects 
 of the pipe are gone." 
 
 Missionary Work in China. 
 
 4 1. -The missionary work of endeavouring to reclaim China 
 from the faith which was first introduced 65 years before 
 Christ, and whereof the leading principles are stated as the 
 worship of ancestors and of sky and earth, has become, 
 during the last 30 years, of political as well as of religious 
 importance, for it constantly gives rise, and has done so 
 very lately, to serious international difficulties. 
 
 Although there are many who regard the missionaries as 
 doing valuable secular service in accustoming the native 
 population in remote districts to the sight of European faces, 
 and in prompting inquiry as to the source of their evenly 
 balanced and steady lives, constituting them thus as pioneers 
 of trade, it is undoubted that the grtat majority of foreign 
 residents are openly sceptical as to the fertility of the 
 missionary field. They are especially apprehensive of the 
 effect when the ground is tilled by fragile mothers and young 
 ladies in the teeth of deep and apparently ineradicable 
 prejudice against the public work of women, and particularly 
 in conjunction with the opposite sex, for as an incendiary 
 proclamation, calling on Wuhu " to chase out all the bar- 
 barian thieves," ran, " This breach of morality and custom is 
 in itself a violation of the fixed laws of the State." 
 
 Roman Catholic Missionaries. 
 
 42. — The first missionary labourers were the Italian Jesuits. 
 They came to China three centuries ago, and by toleration 
 of some of the least objectionable tenets of Buddhism, and a 
 judicious employment of their European learning, obtained 
 such imperial favour as to be put at the head of the Astro- 
 nomical Board, and to be employed to build the celebrated 
 summer palace. There seemed, indeed, every possibility, at 
 one time, of the wholesale conversion of the Chinese to the 
 Roman Catholic Church, termed by the Emperor, K'anghi, 
 
Appendix. 367 
 
 "the Sect of the Lord of the Sky." But then came Christian 
 dissension, and following it soon, as in Japan, their persecu- 
 tion, slaughter, and expulsion. 
 
 Now the Church of Rome is stated to have, in China, 60 
 Bishops or Vicars Apostolic, some 600 European Priests (of 
 whom 65 per cent, are French), and about 400 Chinese clergy. 
 It claims, also, close upon 700,000 adherents (in Japan the 
 proportion is one in every 905 persons) — a calculation which 
 should, however, be read probably in conjunction with the 
 officially published fact, that of 13,684 baptisms in the metro- 
 politan diocese between August 15th, 1891, and- August 14th, 
 1891, 1 1,583 were " baptismi ptterorum infidelium in articulo 
 mortis" 
 
 At the same time recognition should be given to the general 
 respect entertained by foreigners of opposing Christian creeds 
 for the life-long devotion to their task, on the slenderest sti- 
 pend, of the Roman priesthood. Their success as to numbers 
 is also said to be much aided by their care of the mundane 
 interests of the converted, who, loath to continue subscribing 
 to family memorial halls for communication with ancestors, 
 and to extravagant funeral rites, if not also to that support 
 of aged parents which is obligatory on Chinese Buddhists, 
 are shunned by their kindred, and often find private employ- 
 ment, even in foreign families, as impossible to obtain as a 
 pubhc oflSce. 
 
 Protestant Missions. 
 
 43. — Nor have the Protestant Churches, although later in 
 the field, been backward in sending out representatives. A 
 considerable proportion of the thirteen hundred thousand 
 pounds, which is on an average annually subscribed in the 
 United Kingdom for the support of Foreign Missions, goes 
 from " Darkest England " to China. The United States are 
 even more liberal, and school buildings have been erected by 
 Americans, on an extensive scale, in many places. 
 
 Forty-one Protestant Societies were represented in 1890, 
 by 589 men, 391 wives, and 316 single ladies, — a total of 1296 
 persons, of whom 724 were British, 513 American, and 59 
 Continental, — assisted by 1660 natives. These numbers 
 may now be slightly larger. 
 
 As regards persuasions, 7 per cent, of the Protestant 
 Missions belong to the Church of England, 20 per cent, are 
 Presbyterian, 14 per cent. Methodist, 12 per cent. Congrega- 
 tional, 9 percent. Baptist, and the larger number, or 38 per 
 cent., unclassified. 
 
368 Appendix. 
 
 There are upwards of 550 Protestant Churches, distribut- 
 ing, in 1889, 700,000 Bibles and 1,200,000 tracts, and over 
 60 hospitals and 50 dispensaries. 
 
 The result of the work since 1 842, reported to the Protestant 
 Conference, held in 1890, was, in round numbers, 37,300 
 communicants (of whom over two-thirds are stated to be 
 Nonconformists), or about one in ten thousand of the popu- 
 lation ; 19,800 pupils ; while 348,000 persons were returned 
 as having received medical aid, or at least to have visited a 
 missionary dispensary — a work which is acknowledged by 
 all to be of the utmost value, to be of real national benefit, 
 and to be appreciated by the people. It is much en- 
 couraged by the Rev. Hudson Taylor, himself a surgeon 
 and native of Barnsley, who from Shanghai directs, with 
 great tact, the undenominational China Inland Mission, the 
 members of which adopt, like the Roman Catholics, the 
 Chinese costume, and, like them, are smally remunerated, 
 the expenses of the Mission, exceeding ;^38,ooo a year, being 
 met by unsolicited contributions. 
 
 The Recent Disturbances. 
 
 44 — The disturbances on the Yangtze in 1 891, like those at 
 Tientsin in 1870, had for ostensible cause the fixed popular 
 suspicion that the succour of foundlings by the Roman 
 Catholic sisterhoods is for nefarious medicinal purposes. 
 Many of the female children, purposely exposed to die, 
 are necessarily, as indeed in Europe, in a moribund condition 
 when brought in, and the mortality is very high. This is con- 
 firmed by the baptismal figures above quoted. The freedom 
 of access, anywhere and to anybody, which is inseparable 
 from Chinese life, and is tolerated, however disagreeable, by 
 the most experienced missionaries, has also sometimes been 
 attended, it is alleged, with difficulty, especially from native 
 converts, and irritation has resulted. 
 
 The facts disclosed in the British Parliamentary Paper 
 (C. 6431) appear to be that, on May 9th, i8gi, two Chinese 
 nuns were visiting a sick family at Wuhsueh, on the river 
 Yangtze. As the disease of the parents was infectious, they 
 removed the children. On the way to the Mission they met 
 a relation, who demanded their restoration. This being 
 refused, the nuns were taken before a magistrate, vvho, how- 
 ever, on the requisition of the fathers, immediately released 
 them. 
 
 This excited much popular agitation, and three days 
 
Appendix. 369 
 
 afterwards, a woman came to the Mission to claim a child 
 alleged to have died therein. As she was accompanied by a 
 small crowd, which assembles in the narrow teeming streets 
 of China on the slightest pretext, admission was apparently 
 refused. Then commenced the work of destruction, costing 
 two Englishmen, who gallantly went from some distance to 
 render help, their lives, and imperilling many others, not 
 only in the locality itself, but,later on, elsewhere on the river. 
 Much foreign property was destroyed, and a very serious 
 state of affairs seemed likely to supervene, for, as The Times 
 recently wrote, and experience has often shown, " Native 
 feelings of hostility, once roused against the white man and 
 whetted by the intoxication of success, cannot be expected to 
 take account of an imaginary dividing line between two 
 spheres." 
 
 Anti-Foreign Feeling. 
 
 45. — In attributing the outbreak to Chinese hatred of the 
 foreigner, two observations appear in this instance to claim 
 consideration. The first is by Mr. Consul Gardner, in his 
 despatch of June g : — 
 
 " The mob was composed of many hostile from mere 
 ignorance, many from the force of contagion, some from fear 
 of others, a few really friendly, who, like the soldiers, led a 
 lady to a place of safety under pretence of robbing her of a 
 ring, and others who sheltered them from blows, while very 
 few deliberately meant mischief," 
 
 The other is by the Rev. David Hill, a Wesleyan mis- 
 sionary of much experience, who was officially employed to 
 inquire into the facts. Under date June 12th, 1891, he 
 writes : — 
 
 " One thing which the sight of the house impressed on me 
 was the evidence which it gave of the hold on the people's 
 mind which the rumours as to the destruction of infant life 
 have gained. On the upper story, the ceiling had been 
 inspected by means of a ladder, which evidently had been 
 brought up for the purpose. On the ground floor the boards 
 of one of the rooms had been fired, and a large aperture 
 made. Below the ground floor the ventilators outside had 
 been torn open, as though search had been made for 
 missing infants, and, of course, the lath and plaster 
 walls in all the rooms where they might be found were 
 pierced." 
 
 This latter view is confirmed by the Rev. Father de 
 Quellec, who, writing in the Missions Catholigues, describes 
 
 B b 
 
370 Appendix. 
 
 how, at another place, on the night of May 23rd, a dead 
 child, from whom the eyes had been removed, was placed on 
 vacant land near the Mission. A crowd assembling next 
 morning, cried out, " It is the European devil who has torn 
 out the eyes and heart of this child ! " The house was 
 stormed, but fortunately a magistrate arrived with troops 
 more under command than is usual in China, and the mob 
 was dispersed. " But," adds the Father, " eight out of ten 
 believe that we take out the eyes and store them in the 
 cellars of the Mission." 
 
 It is contended that, under such antagonistic circum- 
 stances, rescue work should be guided by the greatest care, 
 for otherwise its use, to the prejudice of both missionary 
 efforts and European trade, by reactionaries, is inevitable. 
 Their sinister influence, once asserted, may at any moment 
 call into fatally destructive play, as indeed recently, the 
 anti-foreign feeling entertained by a large proportion of the 
 Chinese. 
 
 That this anti-foreign feeling exists all agree. It is urged 
 that it must never be forgotten — for what renders it 
 especially serious in China, is the frequent evidence of its 
 being fanned from above — and that the authorities have no 
 efficient machinery of civil order on which reliance can be 
 placed. Nor is the Central Government always able to en- 
 force its will on distant provincial authorities, or even to 
 prevent their varying the orders of the Throne. 
 
 At the same time, say others, the hostility may be ex- 
 aggerated. The employment of over 100,000 Chinese by 
 foreign residents, many in highly confidential capacities, 
 both in the office and the household, and as many more on 
 board foreign ships, tends to confirm the general verdict that 
 the people, in an individual sense, are civil, obliging, and 
 even hospitable towards the foreigner, and well-disposed 
 especially towards the English trader, who treats them fairly 
 good-humouredly, and without offending their national 
 prejudices. This is supported, even from Wuhu itself, for 
 the last Trade Report says : " The trade in goods classed 
 under Foreign Sundries has increased rapidly during the 
 past two years, and shows a gain of 70 per cent." 
 
 Summary of British Position in China. 
 
 46. — It remains but to summarize the position of affairs as 
 regards British interests in China, so far as I have been able 
 to grasp it. 
 
Appendix. .371 
 
 (a) That three-fourths of the foreign trade is in British 
 hands, and a still larger proportion of the shipping 
 in Chinese waters. 
 
 (i) That British commercial firms and residents are in a 
 large majority among the foreign population. 
 
 (c) That the contiguity to China of British India, Burmah, 
 and Hongkong, and the large numbers of Chinese 
 residents in British territories, give England an 
 especial interest in the welfare of the Empire, and 
 in the gradual opening of the vast markets in the 
 West, Sbuth-West, and Centre. 
 
 {d) That while British interests outweigh, in their magni- 
 tude, variety, and extent, not only those of every 
 other Great Power, but those also of the whole 
 world, Russia upon the North and North-West, and 
 from her adjacent port of Vladivostock; France, her 
 ally, upon the South from Tonquin ; and Germany 
 upon the coast, are anxious and watchful competitors. 
 
 Policy of Britain. 
 
 47. — The course of policy best calculated, under such a 
 condition of things, to maintain and extend British commerce 
 is a matter for the Electorate to decide. Those who share 
 the feeling of the majority in Sheffield, that the undeviating 
 conduct of the foreign affairs of the Empire is essential to 
 the expansion of foreign trade and its wealth of home em- 
 ployment, will probably consider — 
 
 (a) That the British Industrial interests at stake in China, 
 and also in Japan, are too great to be necessarily 
 linked to the comparatively trivial concerns of any 
 other nation. 
 (/;) That as they are mainly dependent upon the safety 
 of the resident standard bearers of British trade, 
 Her Majesty's ships in Eastern waters' should 
 always be sufficiently numerous and ready at any 
 moment to protect them, unaided, in their persons 
 and property. 
 {c) That the trade route from Europe to Asia, and its 
 line of defence — Gibrahar, Malta, Cyprus, Egypt, 
 
 ' Her Majesty's fleet round China and Japan consists, exclusive 
 of torpedo boats, of 22 ships, aggregating 45,100 tons, with 137 
 large guns. The next naval power is Russia, with 8 ships and 
 18,100 tons, and 61 guns. The Japanese have 29 vessels; the 
 Chinese 20, but all with native officers. 
 B b 2 
 
I 
 372 Appendix. 
 
 Aden, Ceylon, Singapore, and Hongkong— should 
 always be Kept in British hands, and secure against 
 any possible attack. 
 (d) That at the same time, no accession of friendly territory 
 being desired, and only mutuality of commerce on 
 equitable terras, the Emperor of China and the 
 Imperial Government should be enabled, by the 
 Queen's representatives, to feel that the support of 
 England will always be forthcoming in any step 
 for the advancement of the Chinese nation, the 
 development of amicable relations, and the security 
 of the Empire against any unwarranted maritime 
 aggression. 
 
 MEMORANDUM UPON THE BRITISH TRADE 
 ROAD TO THE FAR EAST. 
 
 1. — The nearest trade road from Europe to the Far East 
 lies through the Suez Canal, down the Red Sea, past 
 Peiim, to Aden ; thence to Ceylon ; from there to 
 Singapore, and to Hongkong in the China Sea. 
 
 2. — As three-quarters of the external trade of both China 
 and Japan is in British hands ; as the British residents 
 are nearly equal, numerically, to those of all foreign 
 nations combined ; and as British ocean steamers are 
 more numerous than those of the whole world, and 
 eightfold those of Germany, the second on the list, it 
 is only fitting, independently of the possession of India, 
 that this trade route should always be retained, as at 
 the present time, in the hands of England, whose 
 position is greatly strengthened by the possession of 
 Gibraltar, Malta, and Cyprus in the Mediterranean. 
 
 3. — So long as this sea road is held intact and properly de- 
 fended, Great Britain remains the dominant commer- 
 cial and naval power in the China Sea. 
 
 4. — To pass Perim or Aden in the Red Sea, and so gain 
 access to the Indian Ocean, would be almost impossi- 
 ble for any European power at war with England. 
 
 5 — Singapore likewise commands, to a great extent, the 
 entrance to, and exit from, the China Sea. 
 
 6. — Apart, though, altogether from the active power of 
 
Appendix. 373 
 
 fortifications and artillery, torpedoes and submarine 
 mines, there is the equally effective one of want of 
 coal. 
 7.— Even supposing that Germany, Russia, Austria, or Italy 
 were able to coal at Port Said,— a state of affairs 
 which, while we occupy Egypt, would not be possible 
 in a state of belligerency,— their steamers could not 
 traverse the 7000 miles to the coast of China without 
 fresh fuel ; and, against the will of England, this 
 would not be attainable. 
 8-— France alone, by coaling at Brock, opposite Aden, and 
 Pondicherry, might take the outer channel of Singa- 
 pore, and so reach Saigon, a distance of 2300 miles ; 
 or even Haiphong, in Tonquin, an additional 600 
 miles ; but the vessels could only steam very slowly. 
 9. — The defensive value to the Empire of the Colonies 
 guarding this great trade road is therefore clear. 
 
 10. — But these prosperous Colonies are also commercially 
 valuable to the Empire in themselves, and particularly 
 Ceylon, the Straits Settlements, and Hongkong. 
 
 II- — Ceylon does a trade of 6,000,000/. a year with the 
 Empire, whereof half is with the United Kingdom, 
 which she is now supplying with 50,000,000 lbs. of 
 tea annually. 
 
 12. — The Straits Settlements have a population of 507,000; 
 and of the external trade of 178 million dollars, 78 
 millions are with the Empire. There is no public 
 debt, and the Colony contributes (as also Ceylon and 
 Hongkong) 100,000/. a year for its defence, which is 
 now, for the first time, upon a proper footing. 
 
 13. — Hongkong, ceded to the British 50 years ago, has 
 become a port of first-class importance. Although, 
 not barring the approach to the Upper China Sea, 
 the Yellow Sea, and the waters of Japan, it does so to 
 a large extent, in a practical sense, owing to the coal- 
 ing difficulty. 
 
 14. — The shipping trade of Hongkong has doubled in the 
 past 30 years. Of 130 million tons of shipping, pass- 
 ing in and out of the harbour in 1890, 7 million tons 
 were British, 4 million Chinese, and 24 million foreign. 
 British ships numbered 5500 (an increase of 136, 
 and 400,000 tons in three years) ; foreign ships num- 
 bered 2600 (an increase of 307, and 225,000 tons), 
 and Chinese junks 55,600 — a total of 64,000 vessels. 
 
 15. — The population of Hongkong is about 200,000, of which 
 
374 Appenauc. 
 
 10,000 are European, and the remainder Chinese. 
 Emigrants frotn China, to the number of 42,000, passed 
 through the port, and of these, 36,000 were bound for 
 places under the British flag, while 850,000 Chinese 
 visited the island in the course of the year. 
 
 16, — The general impression of Hongkong, in a commercial, 
 maritime, defensive, and picturesque sense, has been 
 fittingly summed up by the late Governor : " It may 
 be doubted whether the evidence of material and 
 moral achievement make, anywhere, a more forcible 
 appeal .to eye and imagination, and whether any 
 other spot on the earth is thus more likely to excite, 
 or more fully justifies, pride in the name of English- 
 man." 
 
 17. — Provided, therefore, the British hold firmly by this 
 trade route, and, in friendly alliance with China, do all 
 that is possible to develop mutual trade between 
 Burmah and the Yunnan district, there is nothing to 
 fear from the rivalry of any other power, for so long 
 as South Africa remains loyal to the Empire, the long 
 sea road by the Cape is absolutely impossible to any 
 other nation. If, however, the short route be cut off 
 at its base, by the British abandonment of the magnifi- 
 cent mercantile position established in Egypt, not only 
 will the labour of ten years be thrown away, but the 
 whole of the gigantic trade with the East be im- 
 perilled. 
 
 18. — The only foreign powers capable of injuring us, in a 
 naval sense, in Chinese waters are Russia and the 
 United States. The former has a formidable fleet, 
 based upon the splendid fortified harbour of Vladivo- 
 stock, and could move land forces upon Corea. The 
 reinforcement of the squadron from Europe should, 
 however, be impracticable. As regards the United 
 States, hostility is happily not a likely contingency ; 
 but, in any case, the 4500 miles across the stormy 
 Pacific Ocean, devoid of any coaling station, unless it 
 be Honolulu, is a formidable barrier. 
 
 C. E. HOWARD VINCENT. 
 21, 12, 1891. 
 
OVER LAND ^ 
 
 WATER. 
 
 By Mrs. HOWARD VINCENT. 
 
 The Journal of a Tour through the British Empire 
 and America. 
 
 Third and Cheaper Edition. 3s. 6d., post free. 
 
 -* OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. •}!- 
 
 " Veiy bright and interesting." — Morning Post. 
 
 " Deserves and will receive an extended popularity." — Daily Telegraph. 
 
 " Most charming." — Vanity Fair. 
 
 " Chattily and agreeably written in a pleasant and gossiping style. Open 
 the volumes at what chapter we may, there is something to amuse and 
 interest." — The Queen. 
 
 "There are few English ladies who have travelled as far as Mrs. Howard 
 Vincent, and fewer still who could render their experiences in such a 
 natural and interesting manner." — Figaro. 
 
 "An extremely fascinating book." — Sheffield Telegraph. 
 
 London: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & CO., Limited, 
 St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, E.G. 
 
WORKS 
 
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lO 
 
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12 
 
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14 
 
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 15 
 
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24 
 
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26 
 
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28 
 
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 The Fur Country 
 
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 Michael Strogofl 
 
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