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 . 1/ . / 
 
 
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 < 
 
YUK 
 
 PlLMIl FMHE 
 
 rEW ■EP3-(E!Li\Ii!!l[D). 
 
 CHURCH AT AUSTERF 1 ELD. 
 (Birth place ofWillinjn Bmafcrd,) 
 
 I.0EDOII, A.HALL.YIRTTJE Jt C? 25 , PATERNOSTES ROW. 
 
THE 
 
 PILGRIM FATHERS; 
 
 ttf » 
 
 THE RBiaN OF JAMES THE FIRST. 
 
 W. H. BAETLETT, 
 
 AUTHOE OF "JOEIT BATS IN IHB DESERT.' 
 
 Utitlf Ittttstestitotw. 
 
 LONDON: 
 ARTHTJR HALL, VIRTUE & CO. 
 
 25, PATERNOSTEE ROtV. 
 
 1853. 
 9 
 
tOKboN : 
 
 B. OLAT, PRINTER, BREAD SIKEET HItli. 
 
TO 
 
 DE. WILLIAM BEATTIE 
 
 THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED 
 
 IN GBATEPUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF HIS UNVARIING 
 
 KINDNESS 
 
 DURING A PERIOD 
 
 OF MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 £AGE 
 
 Fbefaci: i^ 
 
 CHAPTER L 
 
 jit pilgrims in dFitglaitJt. 
 
 Obiqin ot the Pukitaks. — Schism in the Chubch. — Rise ob the Indepen- 
 dents. — Congregation at Scroobt. — ^William Bbewstbe. — ^Richard 
 Gltfton. — John Eoeinson. — -William Bbadpobd. — Mtles Stahdish. 
 — Notices oe Emmanuel College, Cambeidoe. — Scroobt — Austee- 
 
 TIELD. — STANDISH AND DUXBURT. — PERSECUTION AND Suj-EEEINGS OE 
 
 THE Independents.— Resolution to Emigrate. — ^Disappointment at 
 Grimsbt..— Imprisonment at Boston. — Notices oe that Town, its 
 Chdech, old Buildings, etc. — Emigeation oe Wintheop. — Final 
 Escape oe the Pilgrims to Holland 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ®lrr iiihs in InllanJr. 
 
 State op Holland at the time of their Aeeival. — Struggle with Spain. 
 — Amsieedam — ^iTS Cosmopolitan Character. — Johnson's Church. — ■ 
 Dissensions. — Poveett oe the Pilgems — theie Removal to Letden. 
 — ^Recent Siege op that Citt. — Establishment of the Church. — 
 Robinson, their Pastor. — Desceiption oe Leyden. — Universitt. — 
 Pilgrim Localities. — State op the Pilgrims at Letden. — Beewstee, 
 A Printer, hunted down by James L — Arrival of Winslow and 
 Standish. — Henet Jacob. — Condition oe the Pilgeims — their 
 Poveett. — ^Peoposals to Emigeate. — Discussions. — TjVuat. Resolu- 
 tion. — Negotiations with the English Government. — Purchase of 
 the " Speedwell." — ^Departure from Letden. — Their Course to 
 
 DeLFTHAVEN. — ^FlNAL EMBARKATION FOE AMERICA 61 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IIL 
 
 ®Jti ^tiilmtni'in IraiiirH. 
 
 FAUE 
 
 Arbival at SoniHAMPTON. — The " Mayflower." — Final Abeanoembnts 
 OE THE TWO Ships, and Depaktdeb. — Damage to the " Speedwell." 
 — Pni INTO Daetmouth. — A second time into Plymouth. — Fhtal 
 Retuen oe the "Speedwell." — ^Voyage of the " Maytlowee." — 
 Aketval at Cape Cod. — ^Fiest Exploration oe the Country. — 
 Landing at Plymouth.' — Settlement there. — Supperings op the 
 piest Winter. — Return op the " Mayelowee." — ^VisiT op Massasoit, 
 AND Negotiations with the Indians. — Arrival and Departure of 
 the " Fortune." — Scarcity Of Provisions. — Illness op Massasoit. — 
 Discovery op Indian Plot — ^its Summary Suppression by Standish. 
 — Brethren at Leyden. — Letter op Robinson — his Death. — 
 Notices op Pilgrim Localities in Ameeica. — Plymouth. — Leyden 
 Steeet. — BuEiAL Hall.— Coles Hill. — Landing-place. — ^Duxbotry 
 Hill. — Standish Spring. — Town Beook.— Billington Sea. — Capb 
 Cod. — Provincbtown. — Pilgrim Hall— its Contents. — Further 
 Notices op Bradford and Carver. — Suppbeings and Hardships 
 op the Pilgrims — their Character and Work — their Inshtuhonb. 
 — Present Condition op Plymouth. — Conclusion 108 
 
 Appendix : 219 
 
ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 (0Dgriiiimg2 u Itel. 
 
 ENGRAVED' BY 
 
 1. Deltthaven. (Frontispiece.) -4. WiBmore. to face 
 
 2. AuSTEEEiEU) CHtJBOH. (TUU-Poge) ...... C.Comen. fage 
 
 3. PoROH OF AusTBKiTiBLD Chtiech -4. WiUmore . 36 
 
 4. SOBOOBT ^- WUlmore . 38 
 
 6. Site of Soboobt Manor J- Cdmen . . 40 
 
 6. Stakdish Chapel and Pew -4- WUhnore . 44 
 
 7. Boston Chukoh ^- WUlmore . 48 
 
 8. Town Hall, Boston E. Brmidwrd . 51 
 
 9. Old Houses, Boston E. Brwndm-d . 65 
 
 10. Dutch Shipping •'■■ Gomea . . 66 
 
 11. Amsterdam ^- WUlmore . 68 
 
 12. Letden. View from Town Hall , E. Brmdwrd, . 83 
 
 13. Interior of St. Peter's Church . . . A. WUlmore . 88 
 
 14. The Jerusalem Hof E. Bramda/rd . 90 
 
 15. The Spaniards' Bridoe B. Bramdwrd . 92 
 
 16. Old Gates at Delft E. Bremdard . 104 
 
 17. Old Mill at Delfthaten A. WUlmore . Iu7 
 
 18. KiNQ Henry's Gun, Southampton • E. Bramdard . 113 
 
 19. The "Mayflower" and "Speedwell" in Dart- 
 
 mouth Harbour 0. Comem . . 115 
 
 20. The " Mayflower" at Cape Cod J- Comen . . 122 
 
 21. Leyden Street <?■ Cousen . . 169 
 
 22. Burial Hill E. Braiidwrd . 173 
 
 23. View from Captain's Hill C. Cousen . . 175 
 
 24. Myles Standbh's Spring /• Oousen . . 177 
 
 25. Town Brook E. Branda/rd . 180 
 
 26. BiLLiNGTON Sea J- Comen . . 183 
 
 27. Peotincetown C. Cousen . . 192 
 
 28. Portrait of Winslow -f-^- Armytage . 195 
 
viii ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 • WOODCUTS. 
 
 FAOE 
 
 Emmanuel Colleqe, Cambmdoe 34 
 
 Standish Chapel. Choblet Chctboh 43 
 
 Stakbish Arms - «6- 
 
 Map op Lbyden . . ■ 79 
 
 A STP.EET IN LeTDEN 80 
 
 Town Hall, Letden • 81 
 
 Dutch Peasantkt . , 94 
 
 Old Shd? 110 
 
 Another Example Ill 
 
 Seal' OF Southametoh 112 
 
 FiLORiM Abmoub . . - 123 
 
 Map OP Plymouth Bat 165 
 
 Plan oe Letden Street 167 
 
 The Alltn House 168 
 
 The Tilorim Kook .... 170 
 
 Major Bradpoed's Tombstone 172 
 
 Standish's Sword, etc. 177 
 
 LoBA Standish's Sampler 179 
 
 The Matploweb 182 
 
 Map OF Cape Cod 184 
 
 Agreement foe Red Cow 196 
 
 WiKSLOw's Chaib 197 
 
 WiNSLOw's Coat of Arms 198 
 
 Old Window-pane 199 
 
 Caeveb's Chair 200 
 
 Peregrine White's Tree 201 
 
 Fuller Cbadle ib. 
 
 Brewster's Chair 204 
 
 Dutch Bible 207 
 
 English Spinning-wheel to. 
 
 Costume of Pilgrims 211 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Of the many heroical emigrations from our island 
 home which have covered the face of the world with 
 powerful colonies, and carried our language and litera- 
 ture to the remotest bounds of the earth, no one is 
 perhaps more singular, and even romantic, than that 
 of the band of sectaries driven forth in the reign of 
 James I., on whom the veneration of their American pos- 
 terity has bestowed the title of "the pilgrim fathers." 
 Their story weU exemplifies the providential law which 
 evolves good out of evil. In an age when the doctrines 
 of toleration were unknown, they were thrust forth from 
 their native land, on account of their religious opinions, 
 and compelled to carry them to the shores of the New 
 World. Thus the harshness and intolerance of the rulers 
 in Church and State became, in fact, the very instrument 
 in producing a form of character, and bringing about a 
 train of circumstances, which have planted on the shores 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 of America a mighty republic, the proudest and most 
 powerful offshoot of the mother country, whose institu- 
 tions, moreover, as thus founded, are not without a 
 powerful reaction upon her own. 
 
 The details of this story are almost unknown to the 
 mass of EngUsh readers : on the other side of the Atlan- 
 tic they are familiar to almost every child — at least, in 
 the New England states — and numerous are the works 
 that have heen published in illustration of them. Many 
 an American pilgrim has sought out the churches of 
 Boston or Leyden where his pious forefathers worshipped, 
 and endeavoured to trace out every footstep of their 
 chequered career — from England to Holland, and from 
 Holland again to the New World. But these publica- 
 tions and researches are almost unknown in England; 
 and it has therefore occurred to the writer of this volume 
 that it might not be altogether uninteresting to compress 
 the scattered particulars of the tale into a continuous 
 narrative, and to give it additional clearness by illustra- 
 tions of the different localities connected with it. These 
 he has accordingly sought out in England, Holland, and 
 America ; and it is from these pen-and-pencU memorials, 
 and these alone, that his work can lay claim to any dis- 
 tinctive originality. 
 
 It is, indeed, but fair to state, that excepting these 
 
]PBET'ACE. XI 
 
 tesuits of personal survey, this work pretends to no 
 merit beyond that of a careful compilation. The chief 
 sources whence it is derived are the original chronicles of 
 the Pilgrims, collected by Mr. Young, of Boston, to which, 
 and to the valuable notes annexed to them, the principal 
 obligation is justly due. The researches of Mr. Sumner, 
 at Leyden, published by the Massachusetts Historical 
 Society, have also been freely used, and no less the 
 valuable discoveries made in England by that distin- 
 guished antiquary, the Rev. Joseph Hunter. The latter 
 are small pamphlets, and necessarily confined to but few 
 readers. Much information has been gleaned from a 
 pamphlet by the Uev. J. Waddington, of Southwark. 
 Nor is the author less indebted to the excellent " Guide 
 to Plymouth," prepared by Mr. W. S. RusseU, keeper of 
 the Old Colony Records, whom he has also to thank for 
 much courtesy and assistance rendered during his visit to 
 America. 
 
 While faithfully exposing the intolerance in Church and 
 State — ^unavoidable, perhaps, in such an age — which led to 
 the expatriation of the Pilgrims, the writer is anxious to 
 disclaim any feeling of sectarian animosity, or to identify 
 himself with the peculiar religious doctrines of the 
 Pilgrims. Few members of the Church of England, we 
 presume, wiH in these days approve of the severities which, 
 
 B 2 
 
xu 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 when the principles of toleration were unknown and the 
 feelings of humanity less cultivated than at present, were 
 exercised towards Dissenters. This work, unlike some 
 that have been written on the subject, has no thqplogical 
 purpose or predilection. Its sole aim is to do justice to 
 the greatness of soul displayed by the founders of New 
 England, — to their piety, their patriotism, their heroism, 
 their practical wisdom. They were men who accompUshed a 
 great purpose, of whom the nation that drove them forth may 
 justly be proud ; and it is time to cast aside the lingering 
 prejudices generated by political and religious animosity, 
 and to enrol their names among the best and worthiest 
 whom this country has ever produced. 
 
CHAPTEE I. 
 
 OEIGIN OP THE PUBITAIIS. — SCHISM IN THE CHUKCH. — ^RISE OP THE INDEPEN- 
 DENTS. — CONGKESATION AT SCROOBT. — •VrtLlIAM BBEWSTEE. — E.ICHABJ3 
 CLTSTON. — JOHN KOBINSON. — WILLIAM BBADrOBB.^MTLES SIANDISH. — 
 MOTICES OP EMMANUEL COLIEGE, CAMBKIDGE. — SCEOOBY — ^AUSTEEPIELD.— 
 STANDISH ABD DUXBUEY. — PEESECUTION AND SUPPEEINGS OP THE INDE 
 PENDENTS. — EESOLUTION TO EMIGEATE. — DISAPPOINTMENT AT GEIMSBT. — 
 IMPEISONMENT AT BOSTON. — NOTICES OP THAT TOWN, IIS CHUECH, OLD 
 BUILDINGS, ETC. — EMIGKATION OP WINTHOEP. — PINAL ESCAPE OP THE PIL- 
 6EIMS TO HOLLAND. 
 
 KL/^t origin of the sect or party called Puritans, wlio, after a 
 long and douttful warfare against arbitrary power, at length, in 
 England suhverted the monarchy and overturned the Church, 
 and in America laid the foundation of the most mighty republic 
 the world has ever known, may in fact be traced as far back as to 
 the first protest against the errors of Catholicism in the days of 
 Wickliffe, although their full development was not reached until 
 after the period of the Reformation. 
 
 When Luther first began to thunder against the papacy, 
 Henry VIII. earned firom the Pope the flattering title of De- 
 fender of the Faith, by the zeal with which he replied to the 
 attacks of the great Eeformer, But as pride and passion were 
 the mainsprings of this monarch's actions, it was not long before 
 the refusal of the Pope to sanction his marriage with a fresh 
 object of passion suddenly opened his eyes to the errors of the 
 
14 ORIGIN OF THE PURITANS. 
 
 Court of Rome. The supremacy of the pope was soon replaced 
 by that of the arbitrary monarch himself, who now assumed the 
 sole right of defining the belief and governing the consciences of 
 his subjects. Thus while on the one hand he put to death Sir 
 Thomas More and other Catholics, for their conscientious refusal 
 to take the oath of supremacy, on the other he brought to the 
 stake Anne Askew, and fellow-victims who avowed the tenets of 
 the Eeformers. But though the spell of blind subservience to 
 Rome, the great bar to spiritual and intellectual enfranchisement, 
 was thus for ever broken, and though the monastic system was 
 overthrown, as yet the change made in the national religion or 
 the feelings of the people was for a long time inconsiderable. 
 
 During the short reign of Edward VI. the work of remodelling 
 the Chui-ch proceeded with accelerated impulse. The principle 
 of the royal supremacy being retained, the great object was next 
 to conciliate on the one hand such as still retained a strong 
 attachment to the Romish ritual and ceremonies, and those, on 
 the other, who desired to see every vestige of them swept away, 
 in accordance with the tenets and practice of the reformed churches 
 founded abroad by Calvin. 
 
 The result of this compromise was the actual constitution of 
 the Church of England. In drawing up her Articles and formu- 
 laries it was the object of the Reformers to combine what seemed 
 excellent both in the old system and the new. Those prayers 
 composed by saints of the early church, and which have never 
 been exceeded by any uninspired pen, were translated from the 
 Latin, and embodied in the new ritual for the benefit of the 
 common people. In the rites and ceremonies a decent medium 
 was observed between the gorgeous excess of Rome and the bald 
 simplicity of Geneva. The surplice and a few simple vestments 
 were still retained as decent and becoming. Indeed, in some few 
 cases observances were still kept up which savoured more directly 
 of the banished superstition — such as the sign of the cross in 
 baptism, and the bowing the knee at the mention of the name 
 
OKIGIN OF THE PUfilTAKS. 15 
 
 of Jesus. On the other hand, the Articles bore no less evident 
 traces of the theology of Geneva, with which so large a hody of 
 the Reformers were then so deeply imbued. 
 
 , Scarcely had the Church, as thus remoulded, become success- 
 fully established, and by the zeal and eloquence of its great 
 leaders, such as Ridley, Latimer, Cranmer, and Hooper, made 
 rapid progress in rooting out what yet remained in the public 
 mind of lingering attachment to the old religion, than it was 
 exposed, by the accession of Queen Mary, to the ordeal of a bloody 
 persecution. Those prelates who remained and exposed them- 
 selves to its fury, were called upon to testify to their profession 
 at the stake, and by their glorious deaths reflected a lustre upon 
 the cause of the newly founded Church, and caused it to spread 
 and take deep root in the affections of the English people. 
 Many, however, sought refuge from the passing storm at Frank- 
 fort, Basle, Zurich, and Geneva, where they established Pro- 
 testant congregations. In constant communion with the reformed 
 sects in those places, not only did they become more attached 
 to their simple austere ritual and to their democratic form of 
 church government, but also in no small measure imbued, by 
 contact with republican institutions, with a tendency to resist 
 the encroachments of arbitrary power, no less in civil than in 
 religious matters. 
 
 Upon the accession of Elizabeth, this body of exiles, active, 
 zealous, and energetic, returned to England, bent upon the great 
 design of extirpating from the constitution of the Church what 
 they deemed the last degrading vestiges of popery, and remodel- 
 ling it after the doctrines and practices of the continental 
 reformers. Even when abroad, the new Book of Common 
 Prayer, put forth by Edward VI., had been the subject of 
 much acrimonious dispute. Those exiles who had retired to 
 Frankfort contended for its authority, while those at Geneva 
 were desirous of a model made in accordance with the prac- 
 tice of that church. On returning home, the first mentioned 
 
16 
 
 SCHISM IN THE CHUHCH. 
 
 party were Installed in the chief places of the Church, as firmly 
 hent upon maintaining the royal supremacy, and enforcing 
 uniformity of belief and practice, as the others were determined 
 upon effecting what they deemed a more sweeping reformation. 
 
 And now commenced a stern and unrelenting struggle, in 
 which both parties, firm iu their conscientious convictions, were 
 ready, for what they deemed the truth's sake, alike to inflict or 
 to endure the extremity of suffering, so that they could but 
 silence, or if needful, even suppress their enemy. The High 
 Church party, feeling themselves firmly entrenched in the height 
 of power, in alliance with a monarchy almost absolute, and able 
 to command the interference of the magistrate, resolved to admit 
 no compromise with their opponents. The Puritans, on the 
 other hand, exposed to the utmost rage of persecution, could 
 only oppose to it an indomitable firmness and tenacity. But 
 this relative position of the parties was merely accidental, — the 
 principle that actuated them was alike in both. The doctrines 
 of toleration were then unknown, and all sects would have con- 
 sidered themselves but lukewarm adherents to the cause of what 
 they believed the truth, had they hesitated when in power to 
 obtain its establishment by force. Both Prelatist and Puritan 
 were in this respect alike, and when their position was at length 
 reversed, and the latter party obtained the ascendency, they 
 showed by the severity with which in England they avenged 
 their sufferings upon the fallen Episcopalians, and in America 
 by the rigour with which they put down all sects but their own, 
 that they knew but too well how to copy the lesson taught to 
 them by their persecutors. Indeed, Neal, their own historian, is 
 compelled to admit that " both parties agreed too well in assert- 
 ing the necessity of a uniformity of public worship, and of using 
 the sword of the magistrate for the support and defence of their 
 respective principles, which they made an ill use of in their turns, 
 whenever they could grasp the power into their own hands." 
 
 In the first instance the Puritans had confined their complaints 
 
SCHISM IN THE CHUKCH.' 17 
 
 to STicli trifling remains of the popish vestments as had heen 
 retained by Cranmer and the founders of the Church for the 
 sake of decent solemnity. In these objections many of the 
 bishops went along with them, and earnest protests were made 
 to those in authority, that a conformity in this respect should not 
 be insisted upon. But the Queen was so resolved to impose 
 uniformity in discipline by her own prerogative, that she issued 
 directions to Archbishop Parker to maintain the order required by 
 law. This prelate needed no spur to carry out a measure con- 
 genial with his own wishes. The recusant clergy were summoned 
 to subscribe an agreement to submit to the Queen's orders, and 
 those who refused were forthwith ejected from their livings, and 
 reduced to a state of destitution. 
 
 This severity produced the natural result, of widening the 
 breach between the Puritans and their persecutors. Driven 
 from their pulpits and their homes, they now began to travel 
 the country and disseminate their views by preaching and 
 issuing pamphlets, in defiance of fine and imprisonment; and 
 finally they began to break off from the Establishment in large 
 numbers, and set up separate places of worship in accordance 
 with their own views. This attempt to evade the rigour of 
 ecclesiastical discipline was only met with more stringent seve- 
 rities. Under the act compelling attendance upon public worship, 
 great numbers of the separatists were brought before the Com- 
 missioners, and punished with fine and imprisoimient. The 
 publications of the sufiering and exasperated sectaries now 
 became more fierce and scurrilous, and a warm controversy was 
 kept up between their leaders and those of the Episcopalians. 
 The latter, stimulated by the Queen, and finding that they could 
 not silence their opponents by argument, resolved to crush them 
 by stUl heavier penalties. Among the first sufferers was John 
 Udal, who, for refusing to swear to answer any questions incul- 
 patory of himself or others, was, though he had taken the oath 
 of allegiance, sentenced to death as a felon, and only escaped 
 
18 ' ACCESSION OF JAMBS. 
 
 execution by dying in prison. And such continued to be the con- 
 dition of the Puritans during the remainder of Elizabeth's reign. 
 
 Upon the accession of James their spirits rose, but only, after 
 a short interval, to give way to the most bitter disappointment. 
 They flattered themselves that as the new monarch had been 
 educated in Presbyterianism, and even written in defence of 
 its doctrines, they might expect no less than toleration, and 
 possibly attain ascendency. The truth, however, was that James 
 hated both Presbyterians and Puritans with a perfect hatred. 
 He could never forget that the former body had been largely 
 concerned in the sufferings of his unhappy mother, — ^how they 
 had browbeaten and hedged him in during his stay in Scotland, 
 and in a manner compelled him to write in favour of a system 
 which it is evident his heart abhorred. These vexations, more- 
 over, had abundantly demonstrated to him that the spirit which 
 animated the disciples of Knox and Calvin tended as naturally 
 towards republicanism, as that which animated the bishops was 
 firmly allied to monarchy. 
 
 The Puritans lost no time in presenting to the King a 
 petition, signed by eight hundred and twenty-five ministers, 
 praying for the removal of superstitious usages and other abuses 
 .which deformed the Church ; to which the University of Oxford 
 speedily issued a reply. This attitude of the rival parties 
 opened a welcome opportunity for James to display those pro- 
 found theological attainments, and that skill in managing a 
 controversy, upon which he above all things prided himself; it 
 furnished besides a no less propitious occasion to humble and 
 confound the Puritans. He, therefore, in reply to the petition, 
 proclaimed a conference between both parties, to discuss the 
 disputed points, he himself taking the lion's share in argu- 
 ment, and also acting as umpire, no less qualified, as he 
 flattered himself, for the oflSce by his skill in polemic warfare, 
 than authorized by his position of supreme head of the Church. 
 
 This conference was held at Hampton Com-t Palace. The 
 
HAMPTON COUET CONFERENCE. 19 
 
 Puritans were represented by Dr. Eainolds and only tliree 
 divines ; while on the other side was an array of nearly twenty 
 bishops, besides the lords of the privy council and their adherents, 
 all eager to applaud to the echo the effusions of the royal 
 wisdom. The Conference, it is needless to say, was a mere 
 mockery. The complaint of the Puritans was too evidently 
 well founded, — that the king sent for their divines, not to have I 
 
 their scruples satisfied, but his pleasure propounded ; not that he j 
 
 might know what they could say, but they, what he would do \ 
 
 in the matter. After they had opened the conference by enume- j 
 
 rating their objections, and had been answered by the bishops, | 
 
 James himself took up the cudgels in favour of the latter. He j 
 
 overwhelmed the unfortunate Puritans, who dared not venture to i 
 
 reply, with a stupendous display of pedantry, encouraged by the \ 
 
 sycophantic .smiles of the prelates and courtiers, and browbeat 
 and ridiculed them ia the coarsest manner. One reason of his | 
 
 dislike, suggested no doubt by his Scottish experiences, he | 
 
 plainly avowed, was the tendency of Puritanism to oppose itself \ 
 
 to arbitrary power both in Church and State. And it must j 
 
 be confessed that his aphorism, " No bishop, no king," was i 
 
 fuUy verified by the experience of his successor. " If," he said ' 
 
 to them, " you aim at a Scottish Presbytery, it agrees as well ] 
 
 with monarchy as God with the devil. I will none of that. 
 I will have one doctrine and one discipline, one religion in 
 substance and in ceremony." Finally, after venting sundry 
 bitter sarcasms against his indignant yet trembling adversaries, 
 he turned to Dr. Rainolds, and triumphantly inquired, " Well, 
 Doctor, have you anything more to say ? " The poor doctor, of 
 course, could only bow in silence. Then telling them that had 
 they argued thus vilely at college, they would hardly have 
 escaped whipping, he broke up the pretended conference, and as he 
 rose from his chair exclaimed, " If this be all that they have to 
 say, I shall make them conform themselves, or I will harry 
 them out of the land, or yet do worse." During this scene the 
 
20 TRIUMPH OF THE BISHOPS. 
 
 bishops were in ecstasies. Bancroft fell on his knees, and 
 blessed God for sending them such a king as since Christ's time 
 had not been seen ; and Whitgift and the courtiers declared that 
 "undoubtedly his Majesty spake by the special assistance of 
 God's Spirit." The mean, pedantic, narrow-minded buffoon 
 retired amidst the applause which of all others was dearest to his 
 heart — that of an approved master in the mazes of theological 
 controversy. " I peppered them soundly," he cried in an ecstasy 
 of conceit ; " they fled me from argument to argument like school- 
 boys." The Bishops were swollen with the insolence of triumph; 
 the Puritans filled with indignation and despair. 
 
 From this period they appear to have given up all hope of 
 effecting a reform in the Church, and although many yet enter- 
 tained conscientious scruples agaiast leaving her communion, 
 a largely increasing number" became separatists. The two 
 parties henceforth diverged more widely in then* principles, and 
 the antagonism between them became envenomed. The cruel 
 severity with which the Court party enforced conformity or 
 punished separation, their evident tendency to approach nearer 
 to the Komish ceremonies rather than recede further from them, 
 their laxity of doctrine, and their desecration and violation of 
 the Sabbath, tended to increase the aversion of the Puritans 
 to constituted authority, to deepen their peculiar enthusiasm, 
 and cast a stiE gloomier shade over their already austere 
 demeanour. 
 
 In politics no less than religion the two parties continued to 
 recede still further from each other. The Church clung more 
 closely to the monarchy, and lending her whole influence to 
 maintain its ascendency, identified herself with the cause of 
 arbitrary power. The Puritans, on the other hand, became the 
 advocates of civil, no less than religious liberty. They fell in, no 
 less from conviction than from personal hostility to the adherents 
 of the prerogative, with that rising party of patriots, who were 
 bent upon resisting the encroachments of tyranny, and eventually 
 
STATE OF SOCIETT. 21 
 
 hurled it into the dust. The first, tenaciously conservative, 
 after many shocks and vicissitudes still forms an integral part of 
 the institutions of Great Britain. The last, republican in their 
 tendencies, dissatisfied with the restrictions imposed upon them 
 at home, carried their theories of government to the shores of the 
 New World, and laid the foundations of a mighty commonwealth, 
 which retains to this day deep and indelihle traces of the 
 parentage firom which it sprung. 
 
 Nor in. manners and deportment did there exist a less irrecon- 
 cilahle hostility. Under the Catholic system, the common 
 people had been accustomed to manly sports and exercises, and 
 to rustic games — some of which, indeed, such as bear-baiting, 
 were at that day, though cruel, equally the favourites of all 
 classes of society, as is the bull-fight in Spain at the present 
 day. Many of the High Church party either winked at these 
 things, as popular tastes which could not be immediately eradi- 
 cated, or openly encouraged them in opposition to the Puritans. 
 The very name of Puritan, on the other hand, had been con- 
 temptuously bestowed on the rising sect, from their pretensions 
 to superior sanctity of life. Undoubtedly they regarded, and 
 with no small reason, the popular tastes and amusements as 
 being both low and brutalizing in their tendency, and incon- 
 sistent with the seriousness of a professing Christian. But in 
 opposing them, they went imfortunately to the very opposite 
 extreme. In the severe, but hardly overstraiaed language of 
 Macaulay, " the dress, the deportment, the language, the studies, 
 the amusements of the rigid sect were regulated on principles 
 resembling those of the Pharisees, who, proud of their washed 
 hands and broad phylacteries, taunted the Eedeemer as a 
 Sabbath-breaker and a wine-bibber. It was a sin to hang 
 garlands on a maypole, to drink a friend's health, to fly a hawk, 
 to hunt a stag, to play at chess, to wear lovelocks, to put starch 
 into a ruff, to touch the virginals^ to read the Faerie Queen. 
 Rules such as these — ^rules which would have appeared insup- 
 
22 BOOK OF SPORTS. 
 
 portaMe to the free and joyous spirit of Luther, and contemptible 
 to the serene and philosophical intellect of Zwingle — threw over 
 all life a more than monastic gloom. ... In defiance of the 
 express and reiterated declarations of Luther and Calvin, they 
 turned the weekly festival by which the Church had, from the 
 primitive times, commemorated the resurrection of her Lord, 
 into a Jewish Sabbath." 
 
 In returning from a visit to Scotland, where he was no less 
 annoyed at the stubborn obstinacy of the Presbyterians than 
 disgusted with the strictness of these Sabbatical observances, 
 James, in passing through Lancashire, where the Catholics 
 were and still are very numerous, received many petitions 
 against this growing strictness of the Puritans as regards the 
 Sabbath, which, it was affirmed, drove men to popery and the 
 alehouse, where " they censured in their cups his Majesty's 
 proceedings in Church and State." Accordingly, no sooner had 
 the king reached London than, calling in the assistance of 
 sundry bishops, he concocted his famous " Book of Sports," in 
 which, with his vaunted sagacity, he set himself to discriminate 
 those legitimate pastimes in which his good subjects were autho- 
 rized and enjoined to indulge after divine service, from those 
 proper only to be used for the rest of the week. Running, 
 vaulting, archery and athletic sports were allowed, but bear or 
 bull-baiting forbidden. Although Archbishop Abbot was known 
 to be opposed, both from priticiple and policy, to the measure, his 
 Majesty also insisted that the clergy should read the ordinance 
 from their pulpits. It was regarded by the Puritans as a trap 
 cunningly set to catch them. Such as from conscientious motives 
 refased to comply were brought before the High Commission 
 Court, and punished for their contumacy. 
 
 At length an increasing number of the Puritans, who, so long 
 as they entertained a hope of remodelling the Church after their 
 own fashion, had conformed to, if not approved of, its general 
 form of government, that hope being no longer possible, began 
 
EISE OF THE INDEPENDENTS. 23 
 
 to question its very framework, and boldly to deny all Episcopal 
 jurisdiction and State influence as alike anticliristian and per- 
 nicious. By degrees they attained clearer conceptions of religious 
 liberty, terminating at last in what is now known as the volun- 
 tary system, or Independency. According to these new views, 
 any congregation of believers freely associating together consti- 
 tuted a separate church, having the liberty to choose its own 
 pastor or bishop, (for to this sense they restricted the meaning 
 of the latter office,) appoint their own officers, and perform all 
 the functions of self-government, with an absolute independence 
 of all foreign control, whether ecclesiastical or civil. This 
 system was originally called Brownism, after Kobert Browne, 
 a Puritan minister, by whom it was originated, or, at all events, 
 chiefly promulgated. 
 
 He was a man of high family, related to Lord Treasurer 
 Burleigh, and chaplain to the Duke of Norfolk. Like others of 
 his brethren, he had at first confined his views to what he 
 deemed the reformation of the National Church ; but failing in 
 this object, bitterly inveighed against it both from the pulpit and 
 press. His high connexions saved him from the extreme penalty 
 which his fiery temper and daring zeal would in all probability 
 have brought upon him; but he was, nevertheless, a mark for 
 persecution, and had, it is said, been in no less than thirty-two 
 prisons, in some of which he could not see his hand at noon- 
 day. Flying at length to Holland, he became pastor of a 
 Separatist congregation, with whom, however, he speedily 
 quarrelled, and, returning to England, closed at length his 
 erratic and troubled career by renouncing his nonconformity, 
 and accepting a benefice in the Establishment he had laboured 
 to destroy. 
 
 Whatever might have been the motive of this recantation, it 
 is not to be wondered at that Browne should have been deemed 
 a renegade by his party, and that they should have earnestly 
 repudiated all connexion with him. But though his memory 
 
24 OKIGIN OF THE PXLGRIM MOVEMENT. 
 
 was consigned to ignominy, tlie principles founded by him were 
 cherislied more warmly than ever. The tyranny of the bishops, 
 anxious to weed out this novel and dangerous doctrine, served 
 only to give it the deeper root. Congregations were secretly 
 gathered together in the northern counties, and able and learned 
 Puritan ministers who had embraced the new principles were 
 chosen to preside over them. 
 
 Connected with this part of our subject the following notices, 
 most obligingly commimicated by the Eev. John Waddington 
 (pastor of the Southwark church), and who has been long and 
 successfully engaged in these inquiries, with a view to publica- 
 tion, will be read with considerable interest. 
 
 " The origin of the Pilgrim movement when traced to its 
 various tributary springs, so long concealed, will be found richly 
 to repay the utmost amount of care and diligence that can be 
 devoted to the inquiry. 
 
 " The Mayflower was the result of a lengthened course of con- 
 scientious sacrifice and endurance for scriptural principles, com- 
 mencing with the earliest days of the reformation in England. 
 A Christian society, composed of artisans, whose names can be 
 given from authentic documents, met, near the close of the six- 
 teenth century, in the house of Roger Eippon, in Southwark, to 
 spend their Sabbaths in the mutual exposition of the word of 
 God, just as Thomas Man assembled with his brethren for the 
 same purpose on the banks of the Thames, at the be^ning of 
 that century. Francis Johnson became the pastor of this little 
 company, in 1592. The martyrs Henry Barrow, John Green- 
 wood, and John Penry, were closely identified with him, and 
 contributed much by their writings to its confirmation. At one 
 time, when the majority of the members were in bonds, the 
 church, by the connivance of the jailor, held its meetings for 
 the reception of new members within the walls of the prison. 
 
 " Contemporaneously with this separatist church in the south 
 of England a similar Christian association assembled in secret on 
 
ORIGIN OF THE PILGRIM MOVEMENT. 25 
 
 the banks of the Trent, in Lincobishire — the successors of the 
 Bible readers who met by stealth in that county in the days of 
 Cardinal Wolsey. 
 
 " Immediately after the martyrdom of Penry, and at his dying 
 request, the brethren in London conferred with their friends in 
 the North, as to the measures they should adopt for their depar- 
 ture in a body to some distant country. A petition, still extant 
 in the original, was presented to the Privy Council for this object, 
 at the time, but with no immediate success. 
 
 " Francis Johnson went from the Clink prison, in Southwark, 
 to accept the pastorate of the church in Amsterdam. John 
 Smyth (a pupil of Johnson's), and a prisoner subsequently in 
 the Marshalsea, in Southwark, was chosen pastor of the church 
 at Grainsborough, in 1602. He corresponded with the church at 
 Scrooby, before Eobinson and Clyfton went there, at the house of 
 William Brewster. 
 
 " Henry Jacob, who was immured in the same prison in which 
 Barrowe, Greenwood, and Johnson had been in turn confined, 
 went from the Clink to Leyden, and was the teacher of a small 
 Christian society there, a short time before the arrival of Eobinson 
 and his company in that city. He returned from Holland to 
 form a congregational church in Southwark, in 1616. 
 
 " John Lothrop succeeded him in Leyden, and the little church 
 continued to exist there after the removal of the Pilgrims. 
 
 " The Mayflower sailed from the Thames, within sight of the 
 place in which the separatists met in 1592, and amongst her pas- 
 sengers were members of the church who received their principles 
 from the Pilgrim martyrs. 
 
 " On the removal of Jacob to America, John Lothrop took his 
 place in Southwark, and in 1634 went, with thirty of the mem- 
 bers, to Scituate, in New England ; and, in conjimction with a 
 number of brethren dismissed from Plymouth for the purpose, 
 formed a church in that locality. The moral affinities between 
 the two branches of the Pilgrim family might be traced much 
 
 C 
 
26 CONGREGATION AT SCROOET. 
 
 further, and tlie whole subject elucidated by original documents ; 
 but for the present this brief outline may suffice. It may be 
 mentioned that, in 1851, a lineal descendant of John Lothrop 
 visited the church in Southwark — removed from Deadman's 
 Place (the site of Barclay's Brewery), and now meeting in an 
 obscure yard in Union-street, near High-street, Borough — soon 
 to pass out of its possession, from the lapse of the lease. The 
 present year, 1853, is the bi-centenary of John Lothrop's 
 death." 
 
 Among these congregational churches in the North was one, 
 which, imder the venerable name of the " Pilgrim Fathers," has 
 attained a celebrity of which its members little dreamed. 
 
 As to the place of their origin, Bradford, their historian, 
 vaguely informs us that it was near " the joining borders of 
 Nottinghamshire, Lincolnshire, and Yorkshire ; " to which he 
 adds, that their place of meeting was at " a manor of the bishop's," 
 then occupied by Brewster. 
 
 It is to the critical acumen and persevering research of a dis- 
 tinguished antiquary, the Rev. Joseph Hunter, F.S.A., that we 
 are indebted for a knowledge of the precise locality. He informs 
 us, that after a diligent scrutiny he finds no place that answers this 
 definition exactly, except Scrooby, in Nottinghamshire, and the 
 principal mansion of that village, the house which had been for 
 centuries a palace of the archbishops of York, but which was in 
 those days held under one of the many leases of episcopal lands 
 granted by Archbishop Sandys. Certainly no spot could better 
 answer to Bradford's description than this, since it is situated on 
 the borders of Yorkshire and Nottinghamshire, and only six 
 miles from the nearest point in the county of Lincoln. " And," 
 to use Mr. Hunter's own words, " that no hesitation may remain 
 respecting this point, I shall anticipate what will hereafter come 
 more fully before us, and state that we find a Brewster assessed 
 to a subsidy, granted to Queen Elizabeth, on the township of 
 Scrooby-cum-Ranskill, and that in 1608, when a fine was im- 
 
WILLIAM BKEWSTEU. 27 
 
 posed Tipon William Brewster by the commissioners for eccle- 
 siastical causes, lie is described as being of Scrooby." A colla- 
 teral, though unnecessary evidence, is found in the fact that the 
 village of Awsterfield (incorrectly, as Mr. H. observes, spelt 
 Awsterfield by the printer of Cotton's Magnalia), the birth-place 
 and residence of William Bradford, is within two or three miles 
 of Scrooby ; and Bradford, we know, became a convert from 
 listening to the preaching of Clyfton, who was the leading pastor 
 of this little congregation. 
 
 The soul of this small but ever-famous confederacy was 
 William Beewstee. He was a man of good family, and after 
 receiving his education at Cambridge, probably at Emmanuel 
 College, and there being, to use the language of his biographer, 
 Bradford, " first seasoned with the seeds of grace and virtue," he 
 went up to London to seek employment at the court. Here 
 he entered into the service of the unfortunate William Davison, 
 Secretary of State, himself " a religious and godly gentleman, 
 who found him so discreet and faithful as he trusted him above 
 all other that were about him, and only employed him in matters 
 of greatest trust and secrecy. He esteemed him rather as a son 
 than a servant, and for his wisdom and godliness, in private he 
 would converse with him more like a familiar than a master." 
 The United Provinces were at that time hard pressed in the 
 struggle against Spain, and a community of interest against the 
 great foe of Protestantism led Queen Elizabeth to assist them 
 with a loan, for which, however, she obtained security by the 
 possession of three of their most important sea-ports, thence 
 denominated " the cautionary towns." On this occasion Davison 
 being sent abroad to conclude the negotiation, Brewster accom- 
 panied him as his confidential servant; and when the keys of 
 Flushing were delivered up to him, after keeping them some 
 time, he committed them to Brewster's charge, who the first 
 night slept with them beneath his pillow. At his return, the 
 States complimented Brewster with a golden chain, and his 
 
 C 2 
 
28 WILLIAM BREWSTEB. 
 
 master committed it to him, and commanded him to wear it when 
 they arrived in England, as they rode through the country, 
 until they came to the court. 
 
 But this full career of favour was abruptly arrested by the 
 disgrace of his patron. Neither Davison nor Brewster^ — both of 
 them men of high principle and unsuspicious temper — ^were proof 
 against the insidious arts of a corrupt court, at a period when 
 plots and intrigues, both foreign and domestic, kept aU men's 
 minds in a state of perpetual excitement. 
 
 Mary Queen of Scots having been tried and condemned, was 
 anxiously awaiting the result at Tutbury Castle. The mind of 
 Elizabeth was scarcely less agitated ; and, while personal resent- 
 ment and state policy led her to desire the death of her rival, she 
 seemed to shrink from the last decisive step, or, conscious at least 
 of the odium such a measure could not fail to draw upon her, 
 she sought to devolve it upon her agents. Sending privately for 
 Davison, she ordered him to draw the death warrant, and having 
 signed it herself, sent him to the chancellor to affix the signature 
 of the Great Seal. When the tragedy was over, the, queen 
 affected vast indignation at what she called the precipitancy of 
 the unfortunate secretary, of whom she had made so unworthy a 
 tool ; and, throwing him into the Tower, deprived him at once of 
 his office and of the greater part of his estate. Brewster did not 
 shrink from the side of his unhappy patron, but continued to 
 render him all possible service in his hour of distress. His own 
 aspiring prospects, if he had any, were blighted ; but it is pro- 
 bable that this instance of the duplicity of the great, and the 
 slipperiness of court favour, deepened that sense of the world's 
 vanity with which, as a religious man, he was already impressed, 
 and determined him to retire from its more active scenes to seek 
 a more congenial sphere of occupation. 
 ■ He went down to his estate in the country, where he lived 
 " in good esteem amongst his friends and the good gentlemen of 
 those parts, especially the godly and religious." He had already. 
 
JOHN SMYTH AND EICHAKD CLTFTON. 29 
 
 in all proTDatility, become a zealous Puritan ; and the activity 
 which he had displayed in the civil service, was now transferred 
 to the propagation of his favourite views. To quote the words 
 of Bradford, " He did much good in the country where he lived, 
 in promoting and furthering religion ; and not only by his prac- 
 tice and example, and provoking and encouraging of others, but 
 by procuring of good preachers to all places thereabouts, and 
 drawing on of others to assist and help forward in such a work, 
 he himself most commonly deepest in the charge, and sometimes 
 above his ability. And in this state he continued many years, 
 doing the best good he could, and walking according to the light 
 he saw, until the Lord revealed further unto him." That perse- 
 cution helped forward his enlightenment, or at least tended to 
 increase his detestation of spiritual domination, and to drive him 
 to the utmost possible extreme from a Church which scrupled not 
 to practise it, we have the express assurance of his biographer. 
 " And in the end," continues Bradford, " by the tyranny of the 
 bishops against godly preachers and people, in silencing the one 
 and persecuting the other, he and many more of those times began 
 to look further into particulars, and to see into the unlawfulness 
 of their callings, and the burden of many antichristian corruptions 
 which both he and they endeavoured to cast off." 
 • The pastors at first chosen to preside over the congregation 
 were John Smyth and Eichard Clyfton, both Puritan ministers 
 who had renounced their connexion with the Church of England. 
 Smyth is supposed by Mr. Hunter to have been formerly curate of 
 Gainsborough, in the neighbouring Lincolnshire, and is described 
 by Bradford as " a man of able gifts and a good preacher." 
 Clyfton, also, Mr. Hunter has ascertained to have been a Puritan 
 minister in the Church— first vicar of Marnham, near Newark, 
 and afterwards rector of Babworth, near Retford, not far fi:om 
 Scrooby, and from this spot " the influence of his ministerial 
 services radiated through the country round." 
 
 One of those most deeply impressed with the preaching of 
 
30 WILLIAM BRM)rORD. 
 
 Clyfton was the youthful William Bradford, a native of 
 Austerfield, a small village within a walk of Scrooby. He was 
 sprung from the ranks of the yeomanry, a class of small landed 
 proprietors, then far more numerous and important in England 
 than at present, and among whom the best of the national 
 characteristics were to be found — independence, industry, and 
 manly seK-respect. Bradford was quite young when he lost 
 both his parents, who left him for his station a considerable 
 inheritance. His early years were spent in the labours of the 
 field, and he received the scanty education then bestowed on the 
 children of farmers. But Bradford was not an ordinary yeoman, 
 nor, like the great majority of his class, was his mind confined 
 exclusively to the monotonous routine of a husbandman's exist- 
 ence. From the first he had a natural thirst for knowledge, and 
 amidst the toils and trials which surrounded him for many years 
 in Holland, found time not only to master the language of that 
 country, but also French, Latin, Greek, and even Hebrew, which 
 he studied the more " that he might see with his own eyes the 
 ancient oracles of God in all their native beauty." A natural 
 seriousness of temper, deepened perhaps by an attack of illness, 
 which for a long time sequestered him from active occupation, 
 led him to give earnest heed to the spiritual exhortations of the 
 separatist divines, to adopt with enthusiasm their theological, 
 views, and to mould his life according to their peculiar practices. 
 
 These influences, if they rendered him intolerant on some 
 points, could not but raise the general tone of his chai-acter, and 
 develop his remarkable qualities. He was one of the leading 
 men in the Scrooby congregation, the most trusted in distress 
 and difficulty, and he finally became the venerated governor of 
 the infant state in America, which he had so greatly assisted to 
 found. 
 
 The society soon received an accession to the number of 
 their pastors in the person of the Eev. John Eobinson, who 
 became permanently associated with them, and, from his influence 
 
JOHN ROBINSON. 31 
 
 and his writings, has heen justly considered as the apostle of 
 Independency. His birth-place is unknown, though he is 
 believed to have been a native of Lincolnshire. He too had 
 been bred a son of the Church of England, and had received 
 his education at Cambridge, either at Emmanuel College, the 
 great nursery of the Puritan ministers, or, as others contend, at 
 Corpus Christi College. After his ordination, he began his 
 ministerial labours in the neighbourhood of Norwich, as Mr. 
 Hunter has ascertained, at a place called Mundham, where, 
 participating in the Puritan opposition against the ceremonies 
 enforced by the hierarchy, he was at length suspended from 
 his functions. Hereupon he retired to Norwich, and gathered 
 around him a little congregation of Puritans, among whom he 
 some time laboured, exposed to the most harassing annoyances. 
 Yet his attachment to the Church appears to have been deep, 
 and it was not without many struggles that he resolved to 
 renounce her communion. His adversary, Joseph Hall, scrupled 
 not indeed to declare that the refusal of Robinson's request for 
 the mastership of the hospital at Norwich, was, if not the main- 
 spring, at least the immediate cause of his secession. But it is 
 far from likely that the possession of this oiEce, had he obtained 
 it, would have prevented an ultimate breach with the eccle- 
 siastical authorities. Hobinson indeed admits, that light broke 
 in upon him by degrees — that he hesitated to outrun those of his 
 Puritan brethren who could still reconcile themselves to remain 
 in the Establishment — and to commit himself to the principles 
 of Independency ; but no one can doubt that his conviction of 
 the righteousness of that cause was as sincere, as his devotion to . 
 it was ever after firm and unfaltering. 
 
 After resigning his Cambridge fellowship, he went down 
 awhile into his native county. The world was all before him, 
 and his future career dark and uncertain. His only course was 
 to ally himself with one of the persecuted congregations of the 
 Independents, and share their reproach and proscription. By 
 
32 JOHN KOBINSON. 
 
 what train of circumstances lie fell in with that of Scrooby is 
 unknown to as ; but it is supposed that he joined them in 1604, 
 and was associated with Smyth and Clyfton in the oversight of 
 the church. Upon Smyth's going over to Amsterdam, Eohinson 
 remained with Clyfton's flock, and when that venerable man also 
 emigrated, the oversight of the little congregation was exclusively 
 committed to his hands. 
 
 The harassing persecution to which they were exposed must 
 have greatly tended to strengthen their bond of union. A pastor 
 was then required, not only to watch over the spiritual, but also 
 the temporal condition of his people. He was called upon to be 
 their adviser, when fined or imprisoned for conscience sake, to 
 comfort them under the malicious vexations of their enemies, 
 and sustain their fainting courage when threatened with worldly 
 ruin in the maintenance of their principles. Nobly did Robinson 
 fulfil the important duty devolved upon him, and deep was the 
 gratitude and afiection of his flock. The voluntary compact 
 between them, far from becoming impaired, seems only to have 
 gathered strength during the anxious and trying years which 
 they were destined to pass together in exile. 
 
 The works, and especially the letters of Kobinson, abundantly 
 testify that he was a man of gentle and beautiful character, 
 with comparatively little of the harshness and bigotry which 
 characterised so many zealots in that age of controversy. For 
 one who held the tenets of Calvin, and had himself, if not 
 originated, yet become identified with, the principles of a new 
 system, he may to a certain extent even be called liberal. " Ths 
 Lutherans," he observed, " cannot be drawn to go beyond what 
 Luther saw. Whatever part of his wiU our good Grod has 
 revealed to Calvin, they will rather die than embrace it, and the 
 Calvinists stick fast where they were left by that great man of 
 God, who yet saw not all things." He willingly allowed mem- 
 bers of such churches as he deemed evangelical in principle, 
 though differing in chui'ch order from his own, to commimicate 
 
EMMANUEL COLLEGE. 33 
 
 with it, and even wrote in reproof of certain Independents who 
 had censured their brethren for occasionally attending the 
 ministry of the Church. But we must not indeed imagine, as 
 some appear to have done, that he supposed the principles of 
 Scriptural truth were open to perpetual improvement, or that he 
 foresaw more than he would have approved of, — i. e. the ultimate 
 results, whether good or evil, of the right of private judgment 
 for which he so strenuously contended. 
 
 A passing notice is here due to the alma mater of so many of 
 the New England worthies. The university near Boston received 
 the name of Cambridge, after that at which its founder Harvard 
 and most of the Puritan ministers were educated. Emmanuel 
 College was the principal nursery of this sect. It was founded in 
 1585 by Sir "Walter Mildmay. " Coming to court," says Fuller, 
 " after he had founded his college, the queen (Elizabeth) told him, 
 ' Sir Walter, I hear you have erected a Puritan foundation.' ' No, 
 madam,' saith he, ' far be it from me to countenance anything 
 contrary to your established laws ; but I have set an acorn which, 
 when it becomes an oak, God alone knows what will be the 
 fhiit thereof.' " Whatever might have been the property of the 
 seedling, the fruit at least fully justified her Majesty's anti- 
 cipation; for of those preachers who, after vainly seeking to 
 revolutionize the Established Church, repaired to America to 
 carry out their theories, the far greater portion were educated at 
 this foundation. 
 
 Emmanuel College is far from being among the most splendid 
 colleges at Cambridge, nor does it present much to gratify the 
 eye of the visitor. The principal court is chiefly of modern 
 architecture. On one side is the hall, which was not built tiU 
 the time of Cotton, and consequently after that of Robinson, 
 probably under the mastership of Thomas NevUe, who added 
 largely to the college, and formed this court, which was called 
 after his name. The interior of the haU displays some square- 
 headed and mullioned windows of the original foimdation, but 
 
34 
 
 EMMANUEL COLLEGE. 
 
 the ceiling and ornaments appear to he of a date posterior to the 
 rest. On the walls are a series of portraits, (there are none, how- 
 ever, of the leading Puritans ;) and in a chamber behind is pre- 
 served that of the founder. Sir Walter Mildmay. The library is 
 a beautiful apartment, and is said to be particularly rich in the 
 department of theology, and to possess a valuable collection of 
 letters written by the early Reformers. There is also a picture 
 gallery, containing portraits of many worthies connected with the 
 foundation. The most ancient, part of the college is that, however, 
 behind the entrance court, built of red brick edged with stone, 
 the style peculiar to the days of Good Queen Bess. There is a 
 venerable appearance about this part of the fabric, heightened by 
 an avenue of trees which cast their tremulous shadows over the 
 time-worn and somewhat gloomy walls, which probably afforded 
 shelter to Robinson and the rest of his Puritanical colleagues. 
 
 The spots ol interest connected with the Scrooby church are 
 all comprised within a very small circuit of Bawtry, in Yorkshire 
 — a small town on the great north road — alive, before the esta- 
 blishment of railroads, with all the bustle of a great thoroughfai-e, 
 
AUSTERFIELD. 35 
 
 but now so quiet and forlorn, that boys may be seen playing at 
 cricket in the street; while the neighbouring farmers, or commercial 
 travellers, " few and far between," alone darken the doors of inns 
 formerly resounding with custom, but now rapidly falling to 
 decay. Making one of these our head-quarters, our first excur- 
 sion was to Austerfield, the birth-place of William Bradford. 
 On gaining the railroad, which commands the neighbouring 
 level, we paused to cast a glance over its geiieral character. It is 
 one of those rich pastoral districts common enough in merry 
 England, which, having no marked features of hill and dale, 
 the hand of industry has so covered with exuberant crops of 
 com, neatly divided by green hedgerows, that the eye rejoices to 
 look upon it, and its aspect of peaceful serenity sinks into the 
 heart. In its centre, and occupying the lowest level, yet but 
 little beneath that of the surrounding corn-fields, is a tract of 
 rich marsh land of vivid green, enlivened with grazing groups of 
 cattle. The glassy stream of the Idle winds through the plain, 
 after a fashion which beseems its name, in slow and mazy coUs 
 between the villages of Austerfield and Scrooby, the former 
 concealed among trees, but the latter marked out by the gi-aceful 
 fabric of its church, rising above the green level with its gray, 
 sky-pointing spire. Thus peaceful and unpretending is the 
 physiognomy of this nursery of the pilgrims ! 
 
 A sign-post bearing the inscription, "Foot-path to Austerfield," 
 indicated the nearest course, and I pursued one of those pleasant 
 byeways peculiar to England, sometimes closely passing between 
 green hedges, at others striking across fields of rustling com, 
 adorned with patches of brilliant poppies, or through bean-fields, 
 which when swept by the wind give out an odour delicious as 
 the choicest parterre. It was one of those fresh bright days when 
 the silvery clouds are driven along the sky by a pleasant breeze, 
 and when the rapidly fleeting shadows, cast by them, chase each 
 other playfully along the waving surface of the corn-fields. The 
 lark, high in the heavens, trilled out her joyous music, rising 
 
36 AUSTJBRHELD CHURCH. 
 
 higher and higher, till the notes were but faintly audihle in the 
 sunny sky, and then rushing down nearer and nearer to the 
 earth with fresh bursts of her inexhaustible melody. On gaining 
 a rising ground, the birth-place of William Bradford appeared 
 below — a hamlet of the most humble description, simply a double 
 row of rustic cottages, old-fashioned and mossy, but with their 
 geraniums in the windows, and bright patches of flowers in the 
 little gardens, displaying that neatness and instinctive rural 
 taste peculiar to the better class of English husbandmen. In 
 one of these peasant nests abode the old sexton, whom I forth- 
 with sought out. He was a venerable man, bending beneath 
 the weight of seventy years; yet still hale and hearty, his 
 cheek, like that of " Adam " in " As You Like it," resembled 
 " a winter apple, frosty but kindly," and his antiquated garments, 
 patched and darned as they were by the labour of Ms aged help- 
 mate, had an air of neatness and propriety. Under his guidance 
 I proceeded to the church, (see title-page,) which, like the 
 village, is of the smallest possible dimensions, but of most vene- 
 rable antiquity, its foundation dating probably from the eleventh 
 to the twelfth century. The grass of the churchyard is almost 
 deep and rich as moss, with a few grave-stones scattered over, 
 among which I sought in vain for any belonging to the Bradfbrds, 
 the majority of whom no doubt still continued to attend that 
 church, his secession from which drew down upon the youthful 
 Bradford so much obloquy and persecution.. 
 
 Within a modern porch thrown out for convenience, is a very 
 curious old door of early Norman date, as its heavy massive 
 capitals, its irregular zigzag moulding of all sizes and shapes, 
 its fish-head ornament, and, what was doubtless intended as the 
 chef d'ceuvre of the sculptor's skill, a basso relievo of the old 
 enemy of mankind, under the' guise of a serpent with expanded 
 mouth and grinning fangs, do all evidently testify. 
 
 The interior of the church answers in every respect to its 
 humble external appearance. The flags, broken and irregular. 
 
'-^t^^ 
 
 DOORWAY 
 
 AusreTiieid. Chu'!-.:!: 
 
bradfoed's ancestoks. 37 
 
 are worn by the feet of many generations — the pews are of the 
 roughest carpentry ; yet all is neat and decent, and impresses the 
 beholder with a feeling of solemn respect. The chancel is sepa- 
 rated from the naye by a round-headed arch, supported on piUars 
 like those of the door ; and within the communion rails is an old 
 oak chest, which contains the registers and records so diligently 
 explored by Mr. Hunter, in quest of information concerning the 
 Bradfords of past days ; for it may be here observed that no one 
 of that family is now to be found at Austerfield, though there 
 are persons bearing the same name at Rossington and Harwarth, 
 within a few miles distant. 
 
 The following particulars derived from these registers at Auster- 
 field, respecting Bradford's relations, are from Mr. Hunter's 
 valuable pamphlet. From these the family appears to have 
 been among the most respectable of the class of yeomanry. 
 " A William Bradford was living at Austerfield, in or about 
 1575, when he and John Hanson were the only persons in that 
 township who were assessed to the subsidy. Bradford was taxed 
 twenty shillings land, and Hanson on sixty shillings goods. 
 These seem to have been the two grandfathers of the fature 
 governor. " William Bradfourth, the eldest," was buried January 
 10th, 1595-6, when his grandson was about six years old. 
 Three Bradfords appear in the next generation, named William, 
 Thomas, and Eobert, of whom only the baptism of Robert is found 
 
 in the register William married on June 28th, 1584. Alice 
 
 Hanson, and William, the future governor of Plymouth, were the 
 youngest of their three children found named in the register, the 
 elder being Margaret Alice, the former of whom died a few days 
 after her birth. William's father was buried on July 15th, 
 1591, leaving him an infant of about two years old to the 
 custody of two of his uncles. 
 
 From the will of one of these guardians, who calls himself 
 "Robert Bradfurth, of Austerfield, yeoman," we derive some 
 curious glimpses of the condition of this class, who in the reign 
 
38 SCROOBT. 
 
 of Elizabeth, ranked next to the acknowledged gentry, the men 
 who used coat-armour of right. They were people who lived 
 for the most part on lands of their own. To his son Eohert he 
 gives " his hest iron-hound wain, the cupboard (or parlour) of 
 his house, one long table with a frame, and one long form, 
 with his best yoke of oxen." Also, " the counter where the 
 evidences are, besides a corslet, with aU the furniture thereto 
 belonging." The residue of his property he divides equally 
 among his four children, whom he leaves to the care of certain 
 guardians. One of these was named Silvester, a divine at 
 Alkley, near Austerfield ; and from Ms will it would appear that, 
 besides a fair estate, he possessed a library of English and Latin 
 books, when they were exceedingly scarce in England. He left 
 to the poor scholars of the grammar-school at Eossington, his 
 Cooper's Dictionary, to be chained to a stall in the church, and 
 used as long as it will last. It is with reason supposed by Mr. 
 Hunter, that William Bradford may have had access to this 
 library, which probably tended to give him the studious turn to 
 which we have already alluded. " And one thing," he observes, 
 " is clear, that the Bradfords of Austerfield, during the eighteen 
 years that he who was afterwards the Governor of New Plymouth 
 was living with them, associated with the very best of the 
 slender population by whom they were surrounded." 
 
 Returning from Austerfield to Bawtry, I strolled out in the 
 evening to Scrooby, which is about a mile south of the town. 
 Here is a bridge over the Idle, which flows with scarce percep- 
 tible ciirrent across the rich gi-assy plain. This, now reclaimed, 
 was formerly marshy, afibrding a favourite retreat for abundance 
 of wild fowl, and other game, well justifying the predilection of 
 the archbishops of York, who preferred this. to all their other 
 hunting-seats. Leland describes Scrooby Palace as " a great 
 manor standynge withyn a mote, and builded ynto courtes, 
 whereof the first is very ample, and aU, builded of tymbre, 
 saving the front of the haule, that is of bricke, to the wych 
 
V 
 
 m 
 O 
 o 
 
SCROOBY MANOR HOUSE. 
 
 39 
 
 ascenditur per gradus lapidis." From Domesday Book, it 
 appears that the prelates of York had tree warren here as early 
 as the 17th of Edward II. In the reign of Henry VII., Scrooby 
 was the favourite seat of Archbishop Savage, and in Elizabeth's 
 time regarded as a more desirable residence than Southwell. 
 Archbishop Sandys is supposed to have resided here ; and there 
 is a monument to his daughter in the church. He demised it to 
 his son, Sir Samuel Sandys, after whose time it was neglected, 
 and fell into decay, and its park converted into a farm. It was 
 at this period, as Mr. Hunter supposes, that it was rented and 
 occupied by Brewster. 
 
 Mr. Hunter recals another interesting fact connected with this 
 now obliterated manor-house : — " When Wolsey was dismissed 
 by his tyrannical master to his northern diocese, he passed many 
 weeks at Scrooby. It is a pleasing picture which his faithful 
 servant Cavendish gives of him at this period of his life — 
 ' ministering many deeds of charity, and attending on Sundays 
 at some parish church in the neighbourhood, hearing or saying 
 mass himself, and causing some one of his chaplains to preach to 
 the people ; and that done, he would dine in some honest house 
 of that town, where should be distributed to the poor a great 
 alms, as well of meat and drink, as of money to supply the v.'ant 
 of sufficient meat, if the number of the poor did so exceed of 
 necessity.' '.' A few years later, King Henry VIII. slept in this 
 house for one night, during his northern progress in 1541. 
 
 Not a wreck of this sumptuous building now remains, but its 
 position is evidently discernible ; and in the annexed view, the 
 farm-house with a row of wiUow-trees marks its site. Thither 
 I pursued my way, past the mUl, and by a few latticed 
 cottages ; and, Imocking at the door of one of these, the porch 
 of which was overhung with roses that scented the whole neigh- 
 bourhood, I inquired for the old hall. The door was opened by 
 a respectable old man, who, on learning my object, put on his 
 hat, and said that he would show me the way. We passed a 
 
40 MILES STANDISH. 
 
 wicket gate, and entered a large enclosure covered vritli the 
 finest turf, divided from the gardens of the village hy what, 
 though day, had evidently once been a moat. My guide 
 informed me that there were some old men who could remem- 
 ber it filled with water ; " but," he added, " it is now dry, and 
 in it you are walking wi' an oud butcher." We perambulated 
 the entire area of the square, one side of which is bounded by 
 the river, and another by the railroad. Almost in the centre 
 stands a noble group of sycamores, marking, as I tmderstood, 
 the site of the principal buildings, and, with the beautiful church 
 in the background, forming a very pleasing picture. We hunted 
 out some fragments of richly-carved woodwork, which had 
 doubtless formerly adorned the halls of state, and had now 
 descended to the " base uses" of propping up the roof of a cow- 
 house. Beyond these insignificant relics there was no trace of 
 the stately " Manor of the Bishops," where these lordly prelates, 
 attended by a splendid retinue, went forth to hawk and to hunt, 
 and returned to feast and to revel, in its days of pride ; and 
 where, in its decay, — strange contrast! — ^the Httle band of 
 sufferers for conscience sake, stealing by by-paths from the 
 neighbouring villages, assembled under the hospitable roof of 
 Brewster to practise in secret that form of worship which the per- 
 secution of their enemies prevented them from celebrating openly. 
 This now vacant spot was the nucleus of the Pilgrim Church ; 
 and here was linked and livetted that solemn fellowship, and 
 unity of purpose and spirit, which subsisted through manifold 
 perils, until it had laid the foundations of a mighty empire on 
 the distant shore of America. 
 
 One of the most prominent individuals hereafter connected 
 with the Pilgrims — although he did not join them until their 
 retreat to Leyden — was Captain Myles Standish, a man whose 
 iron nerve and dauntless energy of character went far towards 
 carrying the infant society through the perils with which it was 
 menaced ;■ — short of statm-e, but sinewy and robust, and with a 
 
o 
 
 o 
 
 UJ 
 
THE STANDISH FAMILY. 41 
 
 constitution of iron and an intrepidity that no peril could quail. 
 His temper is said to have been somewhat too soldier-like — 
 " sudden and quick in quarrel;" hut, on the other hand, his 
 promptitude and decision in an alarming crisis proved, probahlj, 
 the very salvation of the colony. He was an offshoot of one of 
 the oldest families in Lancashire — ^the Standishes, as we are 
 informed by local historians, having flourished there from about 
 the time of the Conquest, and, as will be seen from the following 
 details, played no obscure part in English history. 
 
 John Standish was one of the king's servants, and one of the 
 first who wounded Wat Tyler after he had been felled by the 
 Lord Mayor of London, for which he was knighted, together 
 with the Mayor and citizens. (4th Eichard IL) 
 
 Sir Ralph Standish was a commander under Henry V. 
 and VI., in the French wars, and fought at the battle of 
 Agincourt; and Sir Alexander Standish was knighted for his 
 valiant behaviour at Hutton Field, in Scotland, 1482. Ealph 
 Standish, of Standish, married Philippa, daughter of Henry duke 
 of Norfolk, and, being found in actual rebellion against his 
 Majesty King George, his estate was seized; but he escaped 
 with his life, and his estate was afterwards restored. 
 
 Henry Standish, of this family, a Franciscan friar. Bishop of 
 St. Asaph, 1519, was esteemed a very learned man. He accom- 
 panied Sir John Baker, ambassador to Denmark firora 1526 to 
 1530, and was one of the bishops who assisted and directed 
 Queen Catherine in the suit concerning her divorce from 
 Henry VHI. 
 
 Myles Standish inherited in a preeminent degree the military 
 spirit of his ancestors, but nothing else; for, according to 
 Morton, " he was heir-apparent unto a great estate of lands and 
 livings, surreptitiously detained from him ; his great-grandfather 
 being a second or younger brother from the house of Standish." 
 Compelled thus to seek his fortune, he. chose the profession of 
 arms, and served in the troops sent over by Queen Elizabeth to 
 
 D 
 
42 STANDKH AND DTJXBXmT. 
 
 assist the Dutch in maintaining their struggle for liberty and 
 Protestantism against the Spaniards. Here he fell in with the 
 Pilgrims, and, though not a memher of their church, yet, 
 admiring their principles, and attracted by the love of adventure, 
 he resolved to cast in his lot with theirs, and share their enter- 
 prise to America. 
 
 There are many memorials of the Sfandishes stiU existing. 
 From the windows of my quiet retreat at Newchurch I could 
 see Standish church and the long ridge of Eivington Pike above 
 Duxbury, a land-mark to all the country round. A very short 
 run on the railway brought me to the manufacturing town of 
 Wigan, where one of the streets still retains the name of 
 " Standish Gate." Soon after, we were deposited at the 
 Standish station — a little Gothic cottage, with its neat garden 
 and trailing flowers, such as can only be seen in England. 
 Scarcely a stone's throw distant is the rectory — one of the best 
 in Lancashire, and the advowson of which has belonged to the 
 Standishes for 700 years. It should be remarked here that there 
 are two branches of this family — the one at Standish, and the 
 other at Duxbury — and that there has been no end of litigation 
 and dispute with regard to the property, so that, as an old man 
 in the neighbourhood observed, " it seemed as if there were a 
 speU hanging over it." Passing the rectory-house, we soon 
 reached the church, which stands adjacent to the town on a bold 
 rising ground, commanding what must once have been a magni- 
 ficent prospect. But the aspect of this district has greatly 
 altered since the days of Myles Standish. The manufacturing 
 system, which has since attained such stupendous development, 
 was then in its infancy, and where tail chimneys and cOal-pits 
 vomit forth clouds of sable smoke, there was nothing but the 
 greenness and freshness of pastoral nature. The parish of 
 Standish aboimds in these pits, which are a considerable source 
 of wealth ; and nothing can be more dingy than the town, unless, 
 perhaps, its stiU more dingy denizens, who, begrimed with the 
 
STANDISH CHURCH. 
 
 43 
 
 smoke and coal-dust of the pits, seem as though they had just 
 emerged from the infernal regions. 
 
 T 
 
 StaiiJiifi; 
 
 Standish church is handsome and extensive, and bears on its 
 battlements the shield of the family, which con- 
 sists simply of three standing dishes argent, on 
 a iield azuie. We were disappointed at not 
 meeting with any monuments of its more illus- 
 trious members. We glanced for a moment at 
 a picturesque old cross and stocks in the market- 
 place — the latter, as we were assured, not having been made use 
 of for fourteen years. Hence we proceeded across meadows and 
 through groves to Standish Hall, the ancient seat of this branch 
 of the family, who are Eoman Catholics ; and it was here that 
 the "Lancashire plot" of 1694 was concocted, for replacing the 
 Stuarts on the British throne. Of the old hall, which was in the 
 timber style peculiar to this part of England, but a mere fragment 
 is remaining; the rest is modernised, and contains numerous 
 family portraits of warriors in corslet and buff, lawyers with peaked 
 beards and starched ruffs, and handsome courtiers with slashed 
 dresses and flowing lovelocks. 
 
 d2 
 
44 St Lawrence's head. 
 
 As Myles Standi^, Tiowever, gave the name of Dnxbtuy to 
 his estate in America, it is evident he must have sprung from 
 the branch of the family settled there, whose burial-place is 
 Chorley old church, about four miles distant. Thither we 
 accordingly repaired, and found a picturesque ancient edifice, the 
 chancel of which was appropriated to this family, bearing on the 
 exterior buttresses the above-mentioned armorial bearings. 
 
 Inside the church is the Standish pew, capacious enough to 
 contain a large family, and having a very xmique ornamental 
 screen, elaborately carved in oak with quaint figures and scut- 
 cheons, while between the supporting columns two seats of 
 honour for the master and mistress of the family. The chancel 
 window bears the arms of the Standishes, and the Widdringtons, 
 with whom they intermarried. But here, also, with the excep- 
 tion of a modem tablet, we were disappointed at finding no 
 monuments of consequence, though informed that the vaults 
 below contained the ashes of many generations of the Standishes 
 of Duxbury. 
 
 There is a curious memorial concerning this church in the 
 MSS. of the British Museum. " Be it known to all men, that I, 
 Thomas Tarleton, vicar of the church of Croston, beareth witness 
 and certify, that Sir James Standish, of Dokesbury Hall, hath 
 delivered a relyck of St. Lawrence's head in the church of 
 Chorley, the which Sir Rowland Stanley, knight, brother to the 
 said James, and dame Jane his wife, brought out of Normandy, 
 in the worship of God and St. Lawrence for ... . said church to 
 the intent that the oversaid Sir Rowland Stanley and his wife, 
 the said James and his wife, may in the said church be prayed 
 for, &c. Written at Croston, 2nd day of March, 1442, 21st 
 Henry VI." 
 
 Saint Lawrence's head has disappeared, and masses are no 
 longer oifered up for the souls of the pious donors. Yet Chorley 
 still possesses a " relyck " — no doubt equally authentic — in the 
 shape of several bones, white with antiquity, preserved in a 
 
STANDiSH -■' -J \ CHAPEL 
 
 AND P E V^ . 
 
PERSECUTION OF THE PTXRITANS. 45 
 
 recess to the right of the chancel window. From their great 
 size they have teen popularly supposed to belong to some 
 famous saint or giant ; hut science has dispelled the illusion by 
 pronouncing them to he the uppermost joints in one of the hind 
 limbs of either Aorse or cow species ; but what the animal had done 
 to deserve canonization must ever remain a mystery. 
 
 Within two miles of Chorley is Duxbury Hall, a splendid 
 modem mansion which has succeeded to the ancient one, con- 
 taining a fine collection of Spanish and Italian pictures, and a 
 whole-length portrait of Louis Philippe, presented by himself to 
 Mr. Frank Hall Standish, the present proprietor of the estate, 
 who, it should be observed, assumed the name of Standish on 
 succeeding to the property. 
 
 The park is bold and open, adorned with clumps of timber, 
 and overlooked by the noble ridge of Eivington Pike, upon 
 which is a beacon tower, which was kept in readiness to be 
 lighted during the panic of a Spanish invasion in Elizabeth's 
 reign, and also during the meditated attempt of Napoleon. 
 
 Here or in the neighbourhood were doubtless passed the youth- 
 ful years of Myles Standish ; and there can be no doubt that he 
 often fondly reverted to them amidst the then dreary wilds of 
 America, since he sought to preserve their memory by giving 
 the name of " Duxbury " to the estate there allotted to him. 
 
 To turn from this digression touching the origin of the Pil- 
 grims, and continue to trace their fortunes. The resolution of 
 King James to harry the Puritans and Separatists out of the land 
 was but too well seconded by the prelates and their agents, who 
 seem to have exhausted every artifice of petty tyranny in the 
 vain endeavour to crush the sectaries. Unhappily, in those evil 
 days they had at their disposal an elaborate machinery of despo- 
 tism — apparitors and pursuivants, and above aU, the Court of 
 High Commission, an ecclesiastical tribunal, twelve of whom 
 were bishops, and the remainder their satellites and tools, who 
 were empowered to detect heretics, punish absentees from the 
 
46 FLIGHT TO HOtLAND. 
 
 established worship, reform all heresies and schisms, and 
 oppress recusants with fine or imprisonment. • They could 
 compel the civil power to hunt up and drag before them their 
 victims, whom -they would then entangle with a series of artful 
 questions and cross-examinations, to wrench from them an 
 avowal of their most secret thoughts. From tyranny thus omni- 
 present, there was no escape for the unhappy dissenters. For a 
 while they contrived to elude, in some measure, the watchful 
 scrutiny of their foes, and " for' about a year kept their meetings 
 in one place or another, exercising the worship of God amongst 
 themselves, notwithstanding all the diligence and malice of their 
 adversaries." But the latter, provoked at their escape, redoubled 
 their exertions to ferret them out, and followed up the scent vrith 
 the bloodhounds of ecclesiastical tyranny. " They were hunted 
 and persecuted on every side," says Bradford, who shared him- 
 self the bitterness of these trials, " so as their former afflictions 
 were but as molehills to mountains in comparison to those which 
 now came upon them. For some were taken and clapped up in 
 prisons, others had their houses beset and watched night and 
 day, and hardly escaped their hands, and the most were fain to 
 fly and leave their houses and habitations and the means of their 
 livelihood." 
 
 The little band, after long holding together amidst this 
 harassing persecution, were at length driven to despair. Con- 
 formity or min was the inevitable alternative if they remained in 
 England. They had heard that the members of Smith's church, 
 and many from London and other parts of the land, had fled to 
 Holland, in which country, although still struggling against the 
 Spanish power, Catholicism. was overthrown, and, with the intro- 
 duction of the reformed religion, fr'eedom of conscience was 
 accorded to all men. Seeing that there was no hope of abiding 
 peacefully in their native country, by a joint consent they 
 resolved to abandon it, and to take refuge in Amsterdam. 
 
 This resolution, we may be sure, was not taken without 
 
FLIGHT TO HOLLAND. 47 
 
 deep and bitter concern. They deeply loved their native soil, 
 and to leave it was a sad wrench from all, save conscience, 
 that was best and dearest to them. And far from having 
 the ordinary motives that compel men to emigrate, such as 
 the pressure of poverty or the desire to better their condition, 
 they could look for nothing but increasing embarrassment and 
 distress. Bradford, who had himself everything to lose, gives 
 a lively picture of the state of their own feelings and the 
 astonishment of their neighbours. " Being thus constrained 
 to leave their native country, their lands and livings, and aU 
 their friends and familiar acquaintance — it was much — and 
 thought marvellous by many. But to go into a country they 
 knew not but by hearsay, where they must learn a new language, 
 and get their livings they knew not how, it being a dear place 
 and subject to the miseries of war, it was by many thought an 
 adventure almost desperate, a case intolerable, and a misery 
 worse than death — especially seeing they were not acquainted 
 with trades nor traffic (by which the country doth subsist), but 
 had only been used to a plain country life, and the innocent 
 trade of husbandry. But these things did not dismay them 
 (although they did sometimes trouble them), for their desires 
 were set on the ways of God, and to enjoy his ordinances. 
 But they rested on his providence, and knew whom they had 
 believed." 
 
 Trying as was this voluntary exile, it was no easy matter to 
 carry it into execution. The malignity of their enemies was 
 satisfied with nothing less than their entire suppression — to 
 suffer them to escape abroad was to " scotch the snake, not kiU 
 it." From their safe retreat in Holland the sectaries might 
 launch forth, as in truth they did, pestilent and schismatical 
 publications, they might hold secret correspondence with the 
 malcontents in England, and foment the growing spirit of dis- 
 affection against tyranny in Church and State. Long after the 
 Pilgrims and their followers had laid the foundations of a new 
 
48 BOSTON. 
 
 polity in America, the watchful eye of Laud was ever upon them ; 
 and he endeavoured to prevent the continual emigration of the 
 Puritans, and to introduce into the newly-foTUided state the 
 authority of the same arbitrary tribunals with which he harassed 
 them at home. Every possible effort was therefore made to pre- 
 vent the embarkation of the fugitives. " And thus," continues 
 Bradford," although they could not stay, yet were they not suffered 
 to go, but the ports and havens were shut against them, so as they 
 were fain to seek secret means of conveyance, and to fee the 
 mariners, and give extraordinary rates for their passages. And 
 yet were they oftentimes betrayed, many of them, and both 
 they and their goods intercepted and surprised, and thereby put 
 to great trouble and charge, of which I will give an instance or 
 two and omit the rest." 
 
 Of all the seaports on the eastern coast, the most convenient 
 for Holland, and at that time the most important, was Boston, 
 situated amidst the rich level fens of Lincolnshire, intersected by 
 ancient dykes formed by the Eomans, and communicating with 
 the sea by the sluggish river Witham. Its origin is remote and 
 obscure ; but it had grown up to consideration so early as the 
 year 1204, for, as its chronicles narrate, "when the quinzihne 
 was levied (a duty which was raised on the fifteenth part of land 
 and goods at the several ports of England), the merchants of 
 Boston paid 780?., and London paid 836Z. The capital paid the 
 largest sum of any port, and Boston was the second in amount. 
 The advantages which it possessed as a seaport and place of 
 trade brought over the merchants of the Hanseatic League, who 
 established their guild here. In 1359 Edward III. assessed 
 eighty-two towns to provide ships and men for the invasion of 
 Brittany. Boston furnished to this navy 17 ships and 361 men — 
 a greater number of vessels than was supplied by Portsmouth, 
 Hull, Harwich, or Lynn." 
 
 It was with the wealth accumulated dm-ing this period that the 
 Bostonians erected their parish church, the finest in all England, 
 
ImmJ 
 
 1 ii 
 
 ft 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 '11 
 
 BOSTON CHURCH. 
 
DETENTION OF THE FUGITIVES. 49 
 
 with the lofty tower, which was visible for leagues over the sur- 
 rounding fens, and which served as a landmark to mariners out 
 at sea. But this prosperity was already decliuing in the days of 
 the Pilgrims. " Ahout 1470, in consequence of some dispute, 
 the Hanseatic merchants quitted Boston, and the trade of the 
 place began immediately to decline. While a further blow to its 
 importance was occasioned by the dissolution of the monasteries, 
 several of which were contained within its circuit." 
 
 To Boston, then, the principal company of the emigrants 
 turned their eye, and secretly hired a vessel to take them over 
 to Holland. Brewster seems to have had the conduct of this 
 business, and of the arrangements relative to the embarkation. 
 He had himself collected his books and valuables, and the 
 remainder of the company such articles as could be carried over, 
 the rest having, most probably, been sold to gather a scanty 
 store of funds to meet the first exigencies of their new position 
 in Holland. And now, abandoning for ever their native villages, 
 they repaired as secretly as possible to the appointed rendezvous. 
 The master had agreed to be ready on a certain day, and to take 
 them and their goods in at a convenient place. Here they were 
 first to experience that " hope deferred which maketh the heart 
 sick." Having reached Boston, they found the captain had not 
 yet arrived, and were compelled to remain in that town, sadly 
 reducing their scanty funds, and exposed to the continual risk of 
 discovery. At length the captain made his appearance, but only 
 to betray them. Under cover of night they, with all their goods, 
 embarked, fondly supposing that the bitterness of death was 
 passed ; when the ship was suddenly boarded by the searchers 
 and other officers, with whom the captain had complotted before- 
 hand. They were then turned out into open boats, where the 
 mercenary officials, well aware of the helplessness of their situa- 
 tion, rifled and ransacked them, even to their very shirts, in 
 quest of money ,^the persons of the women being subjected to 
 the same indecent scrutiny. 
 
50 BOSTON. 
 
 The unforttmate band were then carried into the town, where 
 they were' made a spectacle and wonderment to the multitude 
 which came flocking on all sides to hehold them ; and at last, 
 " being by the catchpole officers rifled and stripped of their 
 money, books, and much other goods," they were carried before 
 the magistrates and put into ward, and messengers sent off to 
 inform the Lords of the Council of their capture, and to inquire 
 their pleasure concerning them. 
 
 The magistrates appear to have sympathized with the unfor- 
 tunate sufferers, and to have mitigated their condition as far as 
 they could ; but it was not till after a month's imprisonment that 
 the greatest part were dismissed and sent back, baffled, plun- 
 dered, and heart-broken, to the places they had so lately left, to 
 endure the scoffs of their relatives and the rigour of ecclesiastical 
 discipline. Seven of the principal men, as ringleaders, were still 
 kept in prison, and bound over to the assizes. Of these Brewster 
 was the principal sufferer, both in property and person, the books 
 that were in the boats being his, though some may have belonged 
 to Bradford, who, as a youth of eighteen, was more leniently 
 dealt with than many, and suffered to depart home, only with 
 increased determination to renew his attempts at escape, in which 
 the next time he was happily successful. 
 
 Boston may well claim a few brief notices in this place, not 
 merely as being the scene of this remarkable incident in the 
 eventful course of our Pilgrims, but also as the town whence 
 departed the great majority of the second emigration under 
 Winthrop, which founded in Massachusetts bay a city of the 
 same name, which has since become far more famous than its 
 original. 
 
 From their villages on the borders of Yorkshire it is most 
 probable the Pilgrims would take the same road followed by the 
 writer, over the fens of Lincolnshire, past the noble towers of its 
 cathedral city, seated on a lofty ridge overlooking a vast extent 
 of country, and along the course of the drowsy river Witham, 
 
TOWN HA LI- 
 BOR ton , 
 
MAEKET-PLACE. 51 
 
 flowing with scarce perceptiWe current througli the rich levels, 
 where in that day the wild fowl screamed amidst the sedges and 
 pools which have now given place to the most luxuriant crops in 
 the world. Nothing would chequer the dull expanse, save here 
 and there the lofty spire of a distant church, or a huge and 
 frowning haronial tower like that of Tattershall, until Boston 
 tower came in sight — the first object to catch the morning 
 beams, and the last from which the sunset dies away — the 
 loftiest and most graceful of which the island can boast. 
 
 Boston is one of the most curious old towns in England, with 
 a large irregular market-place, and other open spaces, with pens 
 for folding cattle — this being in the very centre of a rich agricul- 
 tural and grazing district. It was a brilliant morning when we 
 arrived, and the crowded market-place, with its quaint antique 
 houses, overlooked by the tall tower of the church, strongly 
 reminded one of the picturesque cities of Flanders. The streets 
 were aU in a sWarm with broad-shouldered buU-headed farmers, 
 of the true old breed, and their rosy-cheeked comely wives and 
 daughters bustling about at the grocers' and haberdashers^. 
 Itinerant auctioneers, perched on stalls, were putting up the 
 most splendid bargains of gay-coloured waistcoats and brass 
 buttons, and dresses of flaming patterns for the girls. The 
 doorways of the inns swarmed with the burley race, mighty in 
 their potations, and the court-yards were crammed with rusty 
 old gigs and carts, in which they had repaired from their farms. 
 Once a-week the town is thus aroused from the drowsy qidetude 
 of an old decayed place. The once flourishing port of Boston 
 was fast declining in the reign of Elizabeth, and towards the 
 middle of the eighteenth century it had sunk into great decay, 
 through the ruinous state into which the river and haven had 
 fallen in consequence of neglect and mismanagement, and fr-om 
 errors committed in the execution of works of drainage. Foreign 
 commerce has, indeed, pretty well abandoned Boston to retreat 
 to its Transatlantic namesake, but the corn and cattle trade is 
 
52 . BOSTON CHURCH. 
 
 still important, and gives occupation to a considerable number o£ 
 small coasting vessels. 
 
 In perambulating the town, we fall in witli many memorials 
 of what it was in the days of the Pilgrims. There is the old 
 Town-hall, in which it is most probable that Brewster and his 
 company were brought up for examination before the magis- 
 trates, and perhaps imprisoned also. This is an edifice in the 
 later Gothic style, in which brick and stone are picturesquely 
 blended together. Not far distant, and near the comer of the 
 market-place, is a very large old row of timber houses, falling 
 rapidly into decay, a characteristic specimen of the street archi- 
 tecture of the middle ages. The old pointed brick tenement, 
 with its peculiar way of arranging the brick-work, is decidedly 
 foreign in style, as are indeed many other houses scattered about 
 the town, the fashion probably being introduced by the Hanse 
 merchants. 
 
 But the glory of Boston is its church, which; though but a 
 parochial one, is larger and finer than many cathedrals, " It is 
 dedicated," to quote a few details from Mr. Britton's Archi- 
 tectural Antiquities, " to St. Botolph, an abbot of the seventh 
 century, whose memory was long held in great veneration 
 amongst our ancestors, as the numerous ecclesiastical foundations 
 bearing his name testify. There was formerly another church 
 in Boston dedicated to St. John, which Leland tells us was 
 originally the mother church, this of St. Botolph being only a 
 chapel of ease to it. St. John's has long since been demolished, 
 but the cemetery is still used ; it was standing in Leland's time, 
 though St. Botolph's, he says, ' is so risen and adorned, that it 
 is the chiefest of the toune.' The foundation, it seems, is very 
 ancient. The church of St. Botolph, in Boston, was given to 
 the great Benedictine abbey of St. Mary, in York, by Alan 
 Rufus, Earl of Brittany, in the reign of William the Conqueror. 
 It remained in the patronage of the abbot and convent till the 
 reign of Edward IV., when they exchanged it with the crown 
 
TOWIIR OF ST. botolph's chusch. 53 
 
 for the release of a part of a certain pension paid to tHem by the 
 Duchy of Lancaster. The knights of St. John of Jerusalem 
 soon after procured it of the king, in exchange for some lands in 
 Leicestershire, and petitioned for the rectory to he appropriated 
 to their order, the tetter, as they alleged, to enable them to 
 support the heavy expenses they were burdened with, viz, in 
 keeping hospitality, repairing their conventaal church and belfry, 
 for the maintenance of divers priests and clerks to celebrate the 
 divine office, &c. Accordingly it was so ordained in 1480, by 
 Thomas Eotterham, Bishop of Lincohi, with the king's consent, 
 a vicarage being then founded, with a stipend of fifty marks, and 
 the vicar to have the rector's manse, near the church, for his 
 residence. The mayor and burgesses are now patrons, the 
 advowson having been granted to them at the dissolution of the 
 monasteries." 
 
 The annexed view will render unnecessary any minute 
 description of the architecture. The great featm-e is the tower, 
 respecting, which the following old account is generally received 
 as authentic : — " The foundation whereof on j' Monday after 
 Palm Sunday, An°. 1309 in y« 3rd year of Edward y" 2d, was 
 begun by many miners, and continued till Midsum'er foils, 
 when they was deeper than j' haven by 5 foot, where they 
 found a bed of stone upon a spring, of sand, and that upon 
 a bed of clay whose thickness cou'd not be known. Upon 
 the Monday next after the Feast of S' John Bap', was laid the 
 1^' stone by Dame Margery Tilney, upon w* she laid £5 sterl?. 
 S' John Truetdale then Parson of Boston gave £5 more, and 
 Eich*. Stevenson a merch' of Boston gave also £5, w"" was all 
 ■f gifts given at that time." 
 
 We thus find that three orders of the community concurred in 
 the pious work of beginning this noble tower— the gentry, the 
 church, and the merchants. The Tilney family probably con- 
 tributed largely, as well as the " Marchauntes of the Stiliard 
 cumming by all Partes by Est," who according to Lelaid were 
 
64 VIEW rEOM THE TOWEB. 
 
 wont greatly to haunt Boston, " and the grey fireres take them 
 yn a manor for Founders of their house." 
 
 The outline of the tower, which is 262 feet 9 inches high, is 
 most graceful, and is beautifully terminated by the lantern, 
 formed by arches turned diagonally over the angles of the tower, 
 reducing the upper part to an octagon. Though now open to the 
 sky, it was formerly roofed, and divided into two floors. The 
 masonry is admirable, scarcely any crack or flaw being percep- 
 tible; the latter defect, indeed, being amply provided for by the 
 immense foundation, the courses of which have been found to i 
 
 extend under the river. 
 
 This lantern, no doubt, served as a sea mark, and was lighted 
 at night, like a similar one at York, which had anciently " a 
 large lamp hung in it in the night time, as a mark for travellers ; 
 
 to aim at in their passage over the immense forest of Galtree to | 
 
 that city," and, like the original steeple of Bow Church in j 
 
 Cheapside, furnished nightly with five lanterns, that those i 
 
 approaching London might the better find their way. What a 
 totally difierent state of things does this single circumstance 
 open to us ! What plunging and flotmdering amidst the miry 
 Lincoln fens ; what sticking fast of wains and carts in the dark ; 
 what perilous tricks from the will-o'-the-wisp, amid these then 
 treacherous and pathless bogs, on the di-eary nights of the "good , 
 
 old times," when the lantern of Boston steeple rose like a Pharos 
 above the surrounding levels; — when the northern forests 
 swarmed with robbers, and Finchley Common and Hounslow 
 Heath were rarely passed without a challenge from some i 
 
 mounted " gentleman of the road ! " I 
 
 Some curious particulars, showing the different value of i 
 
 money and changes of occupation since those days, are to be 
 gleaned from the accounts of Louth steeple, another Lincolnshire { 
 
 chm-ch, which almost rivals that of Boston. We find, for | 
 
 instance, a payment to one " Robert Boston for the Holy Ghost 
 appearing in the kirJc roof, 2s." the cheapest work of art perhaps 
 

 >> 
 
 
 I ^ 
 
 
 o 
 
 X 
 
 o 
 o 
 
FOUNDATION OF BOSTON. 55 
 
 on record. And when part of the said church was blown down 
 during a storm, it was repaired by one " Thomas Egglefield, 
 freemason and steeple mender^' a business now become as obsolete 
 as that of a barber surgeon. 
 
 From the galleries of the tower is obtained a curious bird's-eye 
 view of the town, with its open market-places, its intricate by- 
 lanes, its red-brick houses, its quaint old roofs and gables, and 
 long sinuous streets winding out into the green marshes. The 
 Witham traverses it in lazy meanders ; a few coasting vessels 
 are working up and down, and its quays are overhung with 
 enormous piles of warehouses, looking antiquated enough to have 
 belonged to the Hanse merchants, in which is stored the com 
 collected from the rich district around. Its course is then to be 
 traced across the rich green marshes, until it mingles with the 
 German ocean. 
 
 The interior of the church is vast and imposing, from its 
 general scale and proportions rather than the perfection of any 
 particular part. It has been shorn of much of its original beauty 
 by the progress of time and change. In the days of Catholic 
 supremacy, the windows were filled with stained glass, of which 
 none is now remaining, and the altars in diflferent parts were swept 
 away at the time of the Reformation. The choir has also greatly 
 suffered in all its details. But it is satisfactory to know that the 
 building is now undergoing a thorough repair and restoration — 
 so far, at least, as is conformable with the simpler rites of Pro- 
 testant worship, and bids fair to regain very much of its 
 original magnificence. ' 
 
 But there are other interesting associations with Boston than 
 those connected, with the Pilgrim Fathers — the pioneers of the 
 New England emigration : for no sooner had they showed the 
 way, and opened the path, than others prepared to follow. 
 Shortly afterwards, "Winthrop and a large company of Puritans, 
 mostly of higher condition and fortune than the poor weavers 
 who took refuge at Leyden, clubbing together a large sum of 
 
56 JOHN COTTON. 
 
 money, and fitting out a fleet of ships, sailed for the shores of 
 Massachusetts Bay, where they laid the foundation of a city 
 which has since become one of the most famous in America. 
 To this city they gave the name of Boston, out of regard to 
 several of their most prominent members who lived in this town 
 and neighbourhood. Of these, Mr, Young particularly mentions 
 Thomas Dudley, Eichard Bellingham, John Leverett, with his 
 father Thomas, William Coddington, and Atherton Hough. 
 The three first-named were governors of Massachusetts, and 
 Coddington was the father of Rhode Island. Hough was mayor 
 of the borough in 1628 ; Bellingham was recorder ; and Thomas 
 Leverett an alderman. Probably there is no town in England 
 that has sent forth so many of its best and worthiest citizens to 
 the great work of colonising America as this of Boston. 
 
 The spirit of Puritanism appears to have been kept alive in the 
 place chiefly through the agency of the celebrated John Cotton. 
 Like Robinson, he was also bred at Emmanuel College, Cam- 
 bridge, of which he became a fellow. He was afterwards pre- 
 sented to the vicarage of Boston by the mayor and aldermen: 
 here he laboured for upwards of twenty years, with the greatest 
 acceptance among the people. So remarkable, indeed, were his 
 abilities, and so great his usefulness, that, though he was known 
 to be disafiected towards the prelatical ceremonies, yet the well- 
 known Dr. Williams, Bishop of Lincoln, himself so persuaded 
 King James, that he allowed him to go on without interruption in 
 his ministry, " which was very marvellous, considering how the 
 king's spirit was carried out against such men." 
 
 It was during Cotton's ministry that Winthrop and his com- 
 pany took their departure for the New World. Like the Pilgrims 
 who had gone before them, they could not abandon their native 
 land without the bitterest anguish. It is said that, shortly before 
 they sailed, they assembled with their friends at a farewell 
 dinner ; but the feelings of Winthrop were so overcome by the 
 thought of their speedy separation, that, instead of pledging the 
 
JOHN COTTON. 
 
 57 
 
 company as usual in sucti cases, he burst into a flood of tears — 
 and thus " set them all a-weeping with Paul's friends, while they 
 thought of seeing the faces of each other no more in the land of 
 the living." In his parting discourse. Cotton said to the exiles, 
 " Be not unmindful of our Jerusalem at home, whether you leave 
 us or stay at home with us. pray for the peace of Jerusalem : 
 they shall prosper that love thee." Their real feelings will appear 
 in their farewell declaration to their hrethren : — " We esteem it 
 an honour to call the Church of England, from whence we rise, 
 our dear Mother, and cannot part from our native country, where 
 she specially resideth, without much sadness of heart and many 
 tears of our eyes, ever acknowledging that such hope and part as 
 we have obtained in the common salvation we have received in her 
 bosom and sucked it from her breasts." This, however, can 
 only fairly be understood as alluding to the Puritanical portion 
 of the Church, since it was from their rooted aversion to the 
 Prelatical party that Winthrop and his companions determined 
 to emigrate ; and as soon as they were settled in the New 
 World, they speedily cast off all allegiance to the ecclesiastical 
 establishment of England, and framed churches for themselves 
 after the fashion of the Plymouth settlers. 
 
 Cotton himself was destined to foUow them within a short 
 time afterwards. For upwards of twenty years he had been 
 allowed to preach unmolested in the sumptuous church of 
 Boston, but Laud had now determined to enforce conformity, 
 and pursuivants were sent to convene him before the Court of 
 High Commission. He fled to London, and by the assistance of 
 his friends eluded the search of the ecclesiastical bloodhounds. 
 They had orders, however, to spare no efforts to apprehend him, 
 and for this purpose went down to the Isle of Wight, where they 
 expected that the ship would touch : but in the meantime he had 
 been smuggled on board in the Downs, and finally succeeded in 
 making his escape to America, where he became " a burning 
 and a shining light " in the midst of the newly-founded 
 
 E 
 
58 ATTEMPT AT ESCAPE. 
 
 community, as a quaint inscription to his memory sufficiently 
 evidences : — 
 
 " A living, breathing Bible, tables where 
 Both covenants at large engraven were. 
 Gospel and law in's heart had each its columu — 
 His head an index to the sacred volume ; 
 His very name a title-page ; and next 
 His life a commentary on the text. 
 what a monument of glorious worth 
 When in a new edition he comes forth ! 
 Without errata may we think he'll be. 
 In leaves and covers of eternity." 
 
 But to resume the thread of our story. The first disappoint- 
 ment of the fugitives, hitter as it was, could not restrain them 
 from making fresh attempts to escape. The year after their 
 Boston failure, they met with a Dutch skipper at Hull, having a 
 ship of his own belonging to Zealand, and secretly agreed with 
 this foreigner to convey them thither — hoping, with Bradford, 
 who was evidently an eye-witness and sharer of the whole 
 affair, " to find more faithfulness in him than in the former, 
 of their own nation." Moreover, to avoid the risks of a large 
 seaport, they bargained with him to take them on board at a 
 lonely common on the flat coast, somewhere between Grimsby 
 and Hull. Every precaution was taken to avoid surprise ; the 
 men were to steal their way to the appointed rendezvous by land, 
 while the women and children, with the goods, were to be con- 
 veyed thither in a small bark. On reaching the spot the ship had 
 not yet come up, and, as the sea was rough, and the women and 
 children were suffering greatly from sickness, they prevailed with 
 the seamen to put into a small creek for shelter, where at low 
 water the vessel lay upon the mud. Here they remained in the 
 utmost anxiety till the next day, when the ship made its 
 appearance. But this trifling delay proved fatal to the scheme ; 
 for during the interval the gathering had by some means attracted 
 notice, and information had been given to the magistrates. As 
 
THE FUGITIVDS AKKESTED. 
 
 69 
 
 the tide was out, and the small bark could not go off to the ship, 
 the skipper sent to fetch off the passengers, but scarcely had 
 he got the first boat-load on board, and was preparing to go for 
 others, when he suddenly perceived in the distance a tumultuous 
 gathering of horsemen and footmen armed with guns and bills, 
 raising the hue and cry, and hurrying down to the shore to 
 apprehend the unhappy fugitives. At this sight, the panic- 
 stricken Dutchman swore a tremendous oath, and, fearing to be 
 implicated in the consequences, and having the wind fair, hastily 
 weighed anchor, hoisted sail, and his ship was soon a speck on 
 the horizon. The agony of those on board was intense, princi- 
 pally on account of their wretched wives and families, thus left 
 without protectors, and made prisoners before their very eyes ; 
 also at finding themselves thus carried off without even a change 
 of raiment or hardly a penny in their pockets. But still more 
 deplorable was the case of these forlorn women — some franti- 
 cally weeping for their husbands carried off in the ship, others 
 sunk in the stupor of despair, or distracted by the screams of 
 their poor children, half-frozen and terrified out of their lives. 
 Some few of the men remained behind to protect them ; but the 
 greater part, on catching sight of the approaching posse, con- 
 sulted their safety by flight. " The women," says Bradford, "being 
 thus apprehended, were hurried fi:om one place to another, and 
 from one justice to another, until, in the end, they knew not what 
 to do with them : for to imprison so many women and innocent 
 children for no other cause than that they would go with their 
 husbands seemed to be unreasonable, and all would cry out at 
 them ; and to send them home was as difficult, for they alleged (as 
 the truth was) that they had no homes to go to — for they had sold 
 or otherwise disposed of their lands and livings." Thus haled 
 about from justice to justice, and from constable to constable, they 
 endured a world of misery and privation ; until their persecutors 
 being wearied out, they were suffered to escape, and at last 
 found another opportunity of rejoining their relatives in Holland. 
 
 e2 
 
60 THEY EEACH HOLLAND. 
 
 Perhaps it waa almost a mercy that these poor women were 
 delayed behind, for the ship that had carried off their husbands 
 was beaten about for fourteen days, and driven to the coast of 
 Norway by a tremendous tempest, in which they narrowly escaped 
 foundering. So severe had been the storm that, on reaching the 
 land, the people came running down to congratulate them upon 
 their escape. There is little doubt, as before said, that Bradford, 
 who, young as he was, appears to have been married, was among 
 the number of those on board, and scarcely had he escaped the 
 perils of the sea, when he was menaced with imprisonment on 
 shore, one of the passengers having maliciously misrepresented 
 him as a criminal fugitive from England. As soon, however, as 
 the Dutch magistrates learned that he had sought their shores 
 in quest of the religious liberty denied him at home, they dis- 
 missed him with every honour, and he repaired to Amsterdam in 
 quest of his fellow-fugitives. 
 
 Such were a few of the trials and distresses — ^for we are assured 
 there were many a bitter stroke of which no account was pre- 
 served — endured by the Pilgrims in their endeavour to effect 
 their escape from England. The cruelty of their sufferings, and 
 the constancy with which they endured them, made, we are 
 assured, a deep impression upon many witnesses, and induced 
 them to make searching inquiry into the pretensions of those who 
 persecuted them. Their cause became famous, and many a con- 
 vert was thus won over, who, but for the tyranny of the bishops, 
 would have remained either hostile or indifferent. And though 
 some few among them at first shrank back from these trials, yet 
 others came on with fresh courage to " confirm the feeble hands, 
 and strengthen the feeble knees ;" so that — in spite of all 
 attempts to prevent them — one by one, or in small parties, they 
 slipped through the fangs of their tormentors, and eventually, 
 to their no smaU comfort, met together on the shores of Holland. 
 
CHAPTEK II. 
 
 STATE or HOLLAND AT THE TUBE OF IHEIB, AKBIVAt. — STBTIGGLE WITH SPAIN. 
 — AMST-F.HTIAM. — ITS COSMOPOHTAN CHAEACTER. — JOHNSON'S CHUECH. 
 DISSENSIONS. — PO-VEETY OP THE PILGEDIS. — THEIK EEMOVAI. TO LET!DEN. 
 BECENI SIEGE OP THAT Cll-f.— ESTABLISHMENT OP THE CHUECH.— EOBIN- 
 SON, THBIE PASTOK. — DESCEIPTION OP LETDEN.— UNITEESITT. — PILGBIM 
 LOCALIIIES.— STATE OP THE PILGEIMS AT LBYDEN.— BEEWSTBE, A PEINIEE, 
 HUNTED BOWS BY JAMES I. — AEEIVAL OP 'WINSLO'Vr AND STANDISH. — ^HBNBY 
 JACOB. — CONDITION OP THE PILGEIMS. — THEIE POVERTY. — ^PEOPOSALS TO 
 EMIGEATE.— DISCUSSIONS.— PINAL RESOLUTION.- NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE 
 ENGLISH GOVEENMENT. — PUKCHASE OP THE SPEEDWELL. — DEPARTDEE 
 PEOM LBYDEN. — THBIE COUESE TO DELPTHATEN. — PINAL EMBAEKATION 
 BOB AMEEICA. 
 
 libp ftigitives for conscience sake, whose further adventures we 
 are now to trace, had fled from England at a most remarkahle 
 period, for the agitation had abready commenced which, in the 
 following reign, was to convulse the country and turn its peaceftd 
 fields iato an arena of civil conflict. The Dutch, though enjoying 
 a temporary truce, were at that time in a state of hostility 
 with Spain. Their protracted and tremendous struggle against 
 the most powerfd monarch of Europe had already heen 
 maintained for some time. Myles Standish, as hefore ohserved, 
 was among the English soldiers sent over by Elizabeth to the 
 assistance of the Dutch. One of the most terrible scenes of 
 that drama had just been enacted at Leyden, which had sus- 
 tained one of those fearful sieges which will never be forgotten 
 
62 STATE OF HOLLAND. 
 
 in the annals of freedom. The struggle hetween the Dutch 
 and Spaniards is indeed one of the most wonderful in the 
 history of the world. We see a simple, unwarlike people, 
 occupying a country which, by dint of wonderful energy, they 
 had almost reclaimed from the sea, and by laborious industry 
 had converted into a garden of fertility. Stimulated by their 
 position to maritime enterprise, they had become enriched by 
 commerce, and Amsterdam was now among the principal 
 marts in Europe. Already jealous of their civil liberties, the 
 impulse given by the Reformation had emancipated their minds, 
 and rendered them impatient of spiritual domination. The inva- 
 sion of their civil rights, the establishment of the dreaded Inqui- 
 sition, the occupation of the country by Spanish soldiers — the 
 lawless ministers of a cruel despotism — drove into stern and 
 determined rebellion a peaceful people, who sought only to enjoy 
 the fruits of industry and commerce. When thus aroused, 
 history has no record of a resistance more obstinate, of sufferings 
 more terrible, or of a triumph more glorious than theirs. To 
 affront an enemy so formidable as Philip II., the successor of 
 Charles V., the most powerful monarch in Europe, possessing the 
 boundless resources of the New World, might well appear to be 
 madness, and nothing but the unconquerable spirit of liberty, the 
 dogged obstinacy of men — aye, and of women — ^resolved to perish 
 amidst the morasses of their native land rather than endure the 
 yoke of a foreign despot, could have maintained the long and 
 arduous, and seemingly hopeless contest. 
 
 It is well observed, however, by Schiller, in his " History of 
 the Revolt of the Netherlands," that, " much combined to break 
 the power of Philip, and to favour the progress of the infant state. 
 Had the whole weight of his power fallen on the United Pro- 
 vinces, there had been no hope for their religion or their liberty. 
 His own ambition came to the assistance of their weakness by 
 tempting him to divide his strength. The expensive policy of 
 maintaining traitors in every cabinet of Europe, the support of 
 
STRUGGLE "WITH SPAIN. 63 
 
 the League in France, the revolt of the Moors in Granada, the 
 tjonquest of Portugal, and the magnificent fahric of the Escurial, 
 drained at last his apparently inexhaustible resources, and pre- 
 vented his acting in the field with spirit and energy. The 
 German and Italian troops, who were allured to his banner only 
 by the hope of gain, mutinied when he could no longer pay them, 
 and faithlessly abandoned their leaders in the decisive moment of 
 action. These terrible instruments of oppression now turned their 
 dangerous power against their employer, and wreaked their vin- 
 dictive rage on the provinces which remained faithful to him. 
 The unfortunate armament against England — -on which, like a 
 desperate gamester, he had staked the whole strength of his king- 
 dom — completed his ruin : with the armada sank the wealth of 
 the two Indies and the flower of Spanish chivabry. 
 
 " But in the very same proportion that the Spanish power 
 declined the Republic acquired fresh vigour. The breaches which 
 the new religion, the tyranny of the Inquisition, the furious 
 rapacity of the soldiery, and the devastations of a long war, un- 
 broken by any interval of peace, made in the provinces of Bra- 
 bant, Flanders, and Hainault, at once the arsenals and the maga- 
 zines of this expensive contest, naturally rendered it every year 
 more difficult to support and recruit the royal armies. The 
 Catholic Netherlands had already lost a million of citizens, and 
 the trodden fields maintained their husbandmen no longer. Spain 
 itseK had but few more men to spare. . . . Wholly difierent was 
 the posture of afiairs with the rebels. The thousands whom the 
 cruelty of the viceroy expelled from the Southern Netherlands, 
 the war of the Huguenots from France, as well as all whom the 
 constraints of conscience drove from the other parts of Europe, 
 — all these flocked to unite themselves with them. The whole 
 Christian world was their recruiting-ground. The fanaticism 
 both of the persecutor and the persecuted worked in their behalf. 
 The enthusiasm of a doctrine newly embraced, revenge, want, 
 and hopeless misery, drew to their standard adventurers from 
 
64 ARRIVAL OE THE PILGRIMS. 
 
 every part of Europe : all whom the new doctrine had won — all 
 who had already suffered, or had still cause of fear, from des- 
 potism — linked their own fortunes with those of the new Eepublic. 
 Every injury inflicted by a tyrant gave a right of citizenship in 
 Holland. Men pressed forward to a country where Liberty 
 raised her inspiriting banner, where respect and security were 
 ensured to a fugitive religion, and even revenge on the oppressors. 
 If we consider the conflux of all people to Holland in the present 
 day, who, on their entrance upon her territory, are reinvested in 
 their rights as men, what must it have been then, when the rest 
 of Europe groaned under a heavy bondage — when Amsterdam 
 was nearly the only free port for all opinions ? Many hundred 
 families sought refage for their wealth in a land which the ocean 
 and domestic concord powerfully combined to protect. The 
 republican army maintained its full complement without the 
 plough being stripped of hands to work it. Amid the clash of 
 arms, trade and industry flourished ; and the peaceful citizen 
 enjoyed in anticipation all the fruits of liberty which foreign blood 
 must first purchase. At the very time when the Eepublic of 
 Holland was struggling for existence, she extended her dominions 
 beyond the ocean, and was quietly occupied in erecting her East 
 Indian empire." 
 
 At the singular and critical period thus finely described by 
 Schiller, the Pilgrims arrived to swell the number of refugees, 
 but brought nothing with them save their poverty and their 
 enthusiasm. Bradford well describes the astonishment with 
 which they were struck at the strange and foreign aspect of 
 everything around them. " They saw many goodly and forti- 
 fied cities, strongly walled, and guarded with troops of armed 
 men. Also they heard a strange and uncouth language, and 
 beheld the different manners and customs of the people, with 
 their strange fashions and attires, all so far differing from their 
 plain country villages, wherein they were bom and bred, and 
 had so long lived — as it seemed they were come into a new 
 
FACE OF THE COXTNTaT. 65 
 
 world." As an instance of tlie triumpli of industry and perse- 
 verance against the most fonnidalble natuial obstacles, tte very 
 appearance of the country itself must have surprised them as 
 much, perhaps, as anything else. There were the extensive 
 Polders, or vast level tracts of the richest land, intersected by 
 endless canals and ditches, with whole regiments of wiadmills 
 constantly at work to drain off the superfluous waters, and 
 adorned with numerous flocks and herds, which ia after times 
 served as models for the pencils of Paul Potter and Cuyp, And 
 the wonder was that all this was helow the level of the sea, 
 protected from its inroads hy a long range of sandbanks called 
 Dunes, or by stupendous embankments, which, maintaiued with 
 incessant watchfulness and care, would nevertheless sometimes 
 give way, and spread devastation and death over an extensive 
 and smiling tract of country. In going from place to place they 
 would walk along whole leagues of artificial dykes, raised with 
 incredible labour, high above the level of the surrounding 
 plains ; or glide along glassy canals, bordered by rows of willows, 
 and from which, as they passed through the numerous towns and 
 villages with which the country was studded, they might peep 
 down into the very interior of the houses. The inhabitants 
 themselves might well seem to be an amphibious race, as much 
 under water as on firm land, and in a certain fishiness of com- 
 plexion almost justifying such satirical descriptions as that 
 in which Butler thus cleverly caricatures the land and its 
 denizens — 
 
 " A cotmtry that draws fifty foot of water, 
 In which men live as in the hold of natnre. 
 And when the sea does in upon them break 
 Aad drowns a province, does but spring a leak. 
 * * * * 
 
 That feed, like cannibals, on other fishes, 
 And serve their cousin-germans np in dishes. 
 A land that rides at anchor, and is moored, 
 In which they do not live, but go aboard." 
 
I s 
 1^ 
 
ITS COSMOTOLITAN CHAKACTER. 67 
 
 exclaims with justifiable patriotism : — " Amsterdam, a name im- 
 mortalized in history, a name which shone hriUiantly on the map 
 of the world, in America, in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. New 
 York, in America, was foimded by the Dutch at the commence- 
 ment of the seventeenth century, and bore the name of New 
 Amsterdam, until taken by the English in 1664; and the prin- 
 cipal island of the group of the Friendly Isles in the Pacific was 
 called Amsterdam, having been discovered by Tasman. Six 
 centuries ago it was merely a poor village inhabited by fishermen, 
 but being liberated from the thraldom of the barons, began to 
 flourish imder the protecting mgis of the Counts of Holland. In 
 the early part of the fourteenth century, it carried on a con- 
 siderable commerce, and between the sixteenth and seventeenth 
 had become, with the exception of Antwerp, the first commercial 
 city of the Netherlands. The taking of Antwerp by the Spaniards 
 caused an influx into Holland of aU the rich merchants of that 
 city who had embraced the reformed religion. In less than 
 thirty years, from 1585 to 1612, the city was enlarged threefold, 
 and in 1658 had attained its present vast extent." It was, there- 
 fore, fast rising to the zenith of wealth and splendour at the 
 period when the Pilgrims arrived there. Accustomed to the 
 monotonous life of their obscure villages, they must at first have 
 felt lost and bewildered in the midst of the busy scene. In the 
 docks they would gaze upon vessels firom all parts of the known 
 world, and in the streets they would jostle against natives of 
 every country in Europe. The city itself was a wonder — a 
 second Venice. Its site was originally a salt marsh, and every 
 building had to be raised on piles, which, driven through layers 
 of peat or soft clay, reposed upon firm earth, forty or fifty feet 
 below the surface, so that the entire city rested upon a foundation 
 of timber. It was of crescent form, the curve facing the land, the 
 base resting on the river Y, which communicates with the Zuyder 
 Zee. This space was intersected with great parallel canals, each 
 two niiles' in length, and a multitude of smaller ones divided it 
 
68 POVERTY OE THE PILGRIMS. 
 
 into nearly a hundred islands, and traversed hj nearly three times 
 as many hridges. The appearance of these canals, half blocked 
 ■with shipping or harges, with the crowded quays which bordered 
 them, pleasantly overshadowed by rows of trees; the lofty 
 houses upon these quays — ^which might vie with any in Europe 
 for size and splendour, while far surpassing them in neatness 
 and cleanhness; the mingling of many costumes; the noise and 
 bustle of a mighty commercial city, — all this must for a while 
 have amused their minds, and have blunted the bitter sense 
 of banishment from their native land. 
 
 Small time, however, had the Pilgrims to dwell upon the 
 novelty of the objects around them, for their scanty resources 
 were rapidly ebbing away. " These," continues Bradford, and no 
 doubt feelingly also, " were not the things they much looked on, 
 or long took up their thoughts, for they had other work on hand, 
 and another kind of war to wage and maintain. For though 
 they saw fair and beautiful cities, flowing with abundance of all 
 sorts of wealth and riches, yet it was not long before they saw 
 the grim and griseled face of poverty coming on them like an 
 armed man, with whom they must buckle and encounter, and 
 from whom they could not fly." But few of them, we have 
 reason to believe, possessed any property at home, or the little 
 they had must have been eaten up by the expenses of their 
 emigration. Brewster himself, originally a man of substance, 
 had become so greatly reduced by the assistance he had rendered 
 to others, and by the charge of a numerous family, that he was 
 obliged, like the rest, to labour for his subsistence. But the 
 worst of all was, that having mostly been bred up husband- 
 men, they were at first unfit for the occupations of a commercial 
 city, and must have had great diflSculty in obtaining employ- 
 ment. In accommodating themselves to this new state of things, 
 they no doubt suffered many privations; but in this struggle 
 with poverty, " armed with faith and patience against him 
 and all his encounters," says Bradford, " though they were 
 
LIBEBALIIT OE THE DUTCH. 69 
 
 sometimes foiled, yet by God's assistance they prevailed and got 
 the Tictory." 
 
 At this period a considerahle number of English had settled 
 in Holland. By a condition of the alliance between Queen 
 Elizabeth and the Dutch, which caused English troops to be 
 sent over into Holland, chapels for them were provided by the 
 government, in which the service of the English Church was 
 performed. Besides these, others were set apart, with a liberal 
 policy continued to this day, for the use of English and Scotch 
 merchants who had settled in the country. But beyond these 
 regular congregations, supported by the Dutch government, there 
 were others privately formed by the constant influx fcom England 
 of sectarians of every shade, driven by persecution from their 
 native soil. Holland had thus become proverbial as the 
 nursery of new religions, a harbour for fanatics and setters up 
 of strange gods, of turbulent, unsettled, quarrelsome zealots. 
 Again, to quote Marvel : — 
 
 " Hence Amsterdam, Turk, Christian, Pagan, Jew, 
 Staple of sects, and mint of schism, grew 
 That bank of conscience, where not one so strange 
 Opinion, but finds credit and exchange." 
 
 " As soon," says Bradford, " as Mr. Bobinson, Mr. Brewster, 
 and other principal members were come over, (for they were of 
 the last, and stayed to help the weakest over before them,) such 
 things were thought on as were necessary for then- best settling 
 and ordering of the church affairs." In carrying out this work 
 they now enjoyed the fullest latitude. The Protestant religion 
 Was established in Holland, in a form differing slightly from that 
 adopted by the Pilgrims themselves; but the Dutch moreover 
 enjoyed the honourable distinction, then made a reproach to them, 
 of granting unlimited toleration to every sect. As a constant 
 stream of Separatists had for many years repaired from England, 
 there had been already established a church at Amsterdam for 
 
70 JOHNSON'S CHURCH. 
 
 some years, while a second had been formed only a short time 
 before the arrival of Robinson and his flock. It now fell out, 
 as was too often the case. Relieved from the external pressure 
 of tyranny which had hitherto compelled them to make common 
 cause, these churches began to quarrel among themselves. The 
 most trifling diiFerence of opinion begot acrimonious dispute, and 
 this little handful of fugitives were speedily rent asunder with 
 intestine discord. 
 
 This Separatist or Independent church at Amsterdam had 
 originally been founded in 1593 or 1594, or as some suppose 
 1600, under the pastorship of Francis Johnson and Henry 
 Ainsworth. Its composition seems to have been unfortunate 
 from the first, and it was speedily a prey to dissensions, which 
 afforded a gratifying spectacle to its enemies. Sometimes a 
 question of discipline, sometimes a question of dress, would suffice 
 to rend asunder the ill-compacted society. When Smyth came 
 over to Holland with several of his followers, he at first joined 
 himself to it, but shortly becoming an adherent of Arminianism 
 and objecting to infant baptism, seceded from the congrega- 
 tion. The venerable Clyfton came over not long after Smyth. 
 " He was then," says Bradford, " a grave and fatherly old man, 
 having a great white beard ; and pity it was that such a reverend 
 old man should be forced to leave his country, and at those years 
 go into exile. But it was his lot, and he bore it patiently." 
 Ainsworth and Johnson disagreed about church government, 
 and formed two separate churches ; and as Glyfton agreed with 
 Johnson, he associated himself with him in the management of 
 his congregation. 
 
 The quarrels in Johnson's church were carried to such a height 
 that he was at length obliged to excommunicate his own brother 
 and his own father. He had, it appears, married a young 
 widow, who had been the wife of a merchant, and with whom he 
 received a considerable property. " She was," to use Bradford's 
 words, " a grave matron, and very modest both in her apparel 
 
DISSENSIONS. 71 
 
 and all her demeanour, ready to any good works in her place, 
 and helpful to many, especially the poor, and an ornament to his 
 calling." Yet because " she wore such apparel as she had been 
 formerly used to, which was neither excessive nor immodest, 
 for their chiefest exceptions were against her wearing of some 
 whalebone in the bodice and sleeves of her govm, corked shoes, and 
 other such like things as the citizens of her rank then used to 
 wear" — upon grounds thus frivolous, and probably instigated 
 by private pique, and envy putting on the semblance of godly 
 zeal, her own relatives raised an outcry against her as a back- 
 sliding, and worldly-minded sister. She endeavoured, it seems, 
 "in order to avoid offence, to reform the fashions of them 
 so far as might be without spoiling of her garments. Yet it 
 would not content them unless they came fiiU up to their size. 
 And so the church did after long patience towards them, and 
 much pains taken with them, excommunicate them for their 
 unreasonable and endless opposition; and such was the justice 
 thereof, as he (Johnson) could not but 'consent thereto." " Such," 
 adds the narrator, " was the strictness or rigidness of some in 
 those times, as we can by our own knowledge show in other 
 instances." And then he goes on to cite the following; and 
 who after reading it can consider Macaulay's picture of the 
 Puritans and Separatists at all overcharged ? — 
 
 " We were," says Bradford, " in the company of a godly man 
 that had been a long time prisoner at Norwich for this cause, 
 and was by Judge Cooke set at liberty. After going into the 
 country he visited his friends, and returning that way again to 
 go into the Low Countries by ship at Yarmouth, and so desired 
 some of us to turn in with him to the house of an ancient woman 
 in the city who had been very kind and helpful to him in his 
 sufferings. She knowing his voice, made him very welcome and 
 those with him. But after some time of their entertainment, 
 being ready to depart, she came up to him and felt of his band, 
 (■for her eyes were dim with age,) and perceiving it was somewhat 
 
72 SIEGE OF LETDEN. 
 
 Stiffened with starch, she was much displeased, and reproved hini 
 very sharply, fearing God would not prosper his journey. Yet 
 the man was a plain countryman, clad in gray nosset without 
 either welt or guard, (as the proverb is,) and the band he wore 
 scarce worth threepence, made of their own homespinning ; and 
 he was godly and humble as he was plain. What would such 
 professors, if they were now living, say to the excess of our 
 times?" 
 
 Such was the scandalous state of dissension when Eobinson 
 came to Amsterdam ; and fear lest he should be dragged into it 
 doubtless suggested a speedy escape from the scene of discord. 
 And thus, after about a year's stay, he removed with his flock to 
 Leyden, where it is beheved that a few fugitives from England 
 had already preceded them. 
 
 This city, as already stated, had not long before sustained 
 one of the most famous sieges ever recorded in history, the 
 horrors of which are only surpassed by the account given by 
 Josephus of the sufferings of his countrymen during the attack 
 upon Jerusalem by Titus. 
 
 After a blockade of almost five months, says a local guide- 
 book, from October 1573 till March 1574, the Spaniards com- 
 menced more active operations. The cruel Duke of Alba had 
 been succeeded by Requesens, who was disposed to substitute 
 clemency for force ; but finding that the people were determined 
 never to yield up their religious liberty, he devolved upon Valdez, 
 one of his chief officers, the task of reducing them to obedience. 
 This general entrenched himself to the teeth round Leyden, 
 constructing a line of forts which, connected with each other, 
 completely encircled the devoted city. The citizens had neglected 
 to lay in stores of provisions, and now no supplies could reach 
 them through the lines of the Spaniards — the stock in the city 
 was speedily consumed, and the most fearftd of aU miseries stared 
 them in the face. Bread was speedily exhausted — the flesh of 
 horses, dogs, and obscene animals was eagerly devoured ; roots. 
 
STATE OP THE INHABITANTS. 73 
 
 weeds, and every substance upon wHcli human life can possibly 
 be sustained or protracted — tliougb in agony — were sought out 
 with the avidity of famine. Several thousands perished from 
 actual starvation, and the contagious maladies engendered by 
 extreme want. The position of the governor, John Van der 
 Does, and of the burgomaster, Peter Van der Werff, conferred 
 but a pre-eminence of sorrow. Insupportable misery at length 
 provoked an outbreak of sedition. A band of starving wretches 
 beset the house of Van der Werff, and tumultuously cried out for 
 surrender, " Dear fellow-townsmen," was the reply, " I can 
 offer you but my own flesh ; I know that death awaits me at the 
 hands of the enemy ; and were I less assured of this, I should 
 still prefer it to an act of perjury. To die would be sweet — if 
 by dying I could save yourselves and your fellow-citizens ! " 
 These words produced a revtdsion of feeling, and inflamed to the 
 utmost the resolution of the citizens. They rushed to the walls, 
 exclaimiug to the Spaniards, " We will eat our left hand, and 
 fight you with our right. We will burn down the city rather 
 than surrender it to you ! " 
 
 Large collections of provisions had been made for the relief of 
 the besieged, but the Spaniards were masters of all the canals, 
 and not a mouthful could find its way into the famine-haunted 
 city. One desperate expedient alone remained — that of breaking 
 down the dykes and letting in the sea, and thus invoking one 
 enemy to get rid of another more cruel and implacable. The 
 Prince of Orange called an assembly of the States, and proposed 
 to them this final resource, and in accordance with the national 
 proverb, "Better a country desolated than conquered," it was 
 resolved to put it into execution. The dykes were accordingly 
 opened, the whole country inundated; but for a long while a 
 contrary wind kept back the advance of the waters, which could 
 not attain a sufficient depth to float over the shallow expanse 
 the flat-bottomed boats in which provisions were to be con- 
 veyed into Leyden. 
 
 F 
 
74 ■ THE ItESCTJE. 
 
 The Spaniards, at first alarmed by the spreading flood, became 
 reassured when they found it only reached a certain level, and 
 still firmly maintained themselves in their entrenchments. In 
 this state of agonising suspense the besieged remained tiU the 
 long deferred moment of their deliverance approached. A strong 
 north wiud forced up at high tide the rivers and canals, swelling 
 the immense accumulation of waters ; and then suddenly veering 
 to the south-west, converted the country round Leyden into a vast 
 lake, in which the isolated encampments of the Spaniards seemed 
 about to be swallowed up. To add to their consternation, they 
 now beheld the approach of the fleet of boats, commanded by 
 Admiral Boissot, manned by hardy and daring Zealanders, 
 scarred with wounds received during the war of independence, 
 and bearing on their hats the devices, " The Turk rather than 
 the Pope!" " Long Hve the Gueux in spite of the Mass ! " The 
 besiegers now abandoned their forts, and fled ia terror along the 
 dykes and causeways. Multitudes were drowned in the wilder- 
 ness of swampy waters ; others, pursued by the Zealanders, were 
 dragged down fi:om their precarious footing with long poles 
 armed with hooks, and remorselessly put to death. A thousand 
 Spaniards were computed to have perished in this disastrous 
 retreat. 
 
 In the midst of this extraordinary scene, the fleet of boats 
 advanced in triumph to the gates of the city, and the canals that 
 intersect it were speedily crowded with them. The starving 
 people rushed down with frightful eagerness to seize upon the 
 provisions. Some expired from joy — many sunk exhausted 
 before they could reach their deliverers — others perished by a 
 too free indulgence in food, which their famished and weakened 
 bodies were unable to support. Amidst the ebullition of 
 gratitude, the burgomasters and populace hastened to the great 
 church, and offered mingled psalms and tears to Heaven for 
 their remarkable deliverance. But nothing could obliterate to 
 the survivors the gloomy recollection of those fearful months 
 
THE PILGEIMS AT LETDEN. 75 
 
 during wHcli they had seen six thousand of their dearest 
 relatives perish by the lingering agonies of starvation. 
 
 The Prince of Orange received the news of this deliverance 
 while attending service in the great church of Delft. Soon 
 after he entered the city, and according to a tradition, the truth 
 of which has been questioned, offered the citizens either to 
 release them from certain onerous taxes, or to give them a Univer- 
 sity. Whether this be true or not, it is certain that this edifice 
 was inaugurated on the 8th of February following, only four 
 months after this memorable siege. 
 
 The Pilgrims are supposed to have removed to Leyden about 
 the close of the year 1608. The city was at that time recovering 
 from its disasters, and even enjoying a high degree of prosperity. 
 The same guide informs us that after the pacification of Ghent, 
 in 1576, had for a while re-estabHshed internal concord, and 
 banished the theatre of war from Holland, Leyden began to 
 gather new Hfe. A crowd of industrious fellow-citizens from the 
 southern provinces, expelled by the Spaniards for their religious 
 opinions, fled towards the north ; and of these, Leyden received a 
 considerable number. It is from this moment we may date the 
 great prosperity of its manufactures of cloth, which kept on 
 increasing constantly, until, in the midst of the seventeenth cen- 
 tury, Leyden had become the Leeds or Manchester of that 
 period. Its population, which during the siege amounted only 
 to fourteen thousand souls, numbered almost eighty thousand 
 at the epoch of the peace of "Westphalia. Twice did it become 
 necessary to enlarge its boundaries (in 1616 and 1645), and 
 Leyden was, after Amsterdam, the greatest city of the province. 
 Bradford indeed remarks, that "wanting thaft traffic by sea 
 which Amsterdam enjoyed, it was not so beneficial for their 
 outward means of living and estates. But being now here 
 pitched, they fell to such trades and employments as they best 
 could, valuing peace and their spiritual comfort above any other 
 riches whatsoever ; and at length they came to raise a competent 
 
 f2 
 
76 BREWSTER, A PRINTER. 
 
 and comfortable living with hard and continual labour." Brad- 
 ford himself appears to have learned the art of silk-throwing 
 from a French refugee, and thus to have obtained the means of 
 support. The position of Brewster was more trying, owing to 
 the greater refinement of his earlier life and habits, which 
 must have given a double edge to hardship and privation. But 
 here his education served him well ; for being master of Latin, 
 he was able to teach many students who desired to learn 
 English — by drawing rules to learn it by after the Latin man- 
 ner ; and for this purpose many Danish and German students, 
 many of them of high families, resorted to him after their studies 
 were concluded. He also set up a private printing press, at 
 which it is most probable that the works of his colleague 
 Robinson were printed, as well as numerous Puritan books and 
 pamphlets, which were too obnoxious to King James and the 
 bishops for any printer at home to undertake, and which being 
 thence sent over and privately disseminated, no doubt tended to 
 undermine the tottering fabric of Church and State. So great 
 was the irritation of the King at these clandestine attempts, that his 
 ambassador at the Court of Holland, Sir Dudley Carleton, was 
 Ordered to seek out and have him apprehended, as the Dutch 
 were at that time, from motives of policy, desirous of keeping up a 
 good understanding with James. Brewster found it necessary to 
 transport himself and his family to London, where he remained 
 so closely hidden that all attempts to discover him were in- 
 effectual. 
 
 As soon as the Pilgrims had established themselves in Leyden, 
 a call was given by his congregation to Robinson, formally to 
 assume the ofHce of pastor, which he had hitherto exercised 
 without a direct appointment. According to his views, the 
 ordination was effected by his own church, Brewster being at 
 the same time appointed as elder. After six years had elapsed 
 since the commencement of his ministerial labours, and having 
 doubtless in the meantime acquired the Dutch langniage, he was 
 
ROBINSON AND THE ARMINIA.NS. 77 
 
 at length received as member of the University. This fact 
 was ascertained hy Mr. Sumner, of Boston, during his valuable 
 researches at Leyden, published in the Massachusetts' Historical 
 Collections. The copy of his admission is as follows : — 
 
 1615. Joannes Robintsonus. Anglus. 
 
 Sept. 5th. Ann. xxxix. 
 
 Coss. permissa. Stud. Theol. alit Familiam. 
 
 This privilege exempted him from the control of the town 
 magistrates, besides entitling him to half a tun of beer every 
 month, and about ten gallons of wine every three months. 
 
 That the intellectual attributes of the English preacher were 
 regarded by the Dutch professors as of a superior order, appears 
 from the flattering request preferred to him, to defend the cause of 
 Calvinism against the arguments of Episcopius, considered the 
 most able advocate of Arminianism. The Dutch Church was at 
 that time rent in twain by this controversy, and it is certainly 
 not a little surprising that the Calvinistic professors of Leyden 
 should have selected a stranger as the champion of their views. 
 Eobinson at first modestly refused, but afterwards consented, and 
 a three days' dispute was crowned with what his friends declared 
 to be a complete triumph. A few years after, the celebrated 
 "Synod of Dort" was convened to settle this much agitated 
 question; the Arminians were declared in error; but still 
 continuing to maintain their principles, the secular arm was 
 called in to punish their obstinacy. They were required to 
 subscribe to the creed of their opponents, and those who refased 
 were driven into banishment. Robinson followed up his victory 
 over Episcopius by a written defence of the doctrines of the 
 Synod, although the whole tenor of his Hfe forbids the belief 
 that he could have approved of these acts of persecution. His 
 pen was, besides, incessantly active ia defending his favourite 
 tenets against the aspersions of his Episcopal adversaries. Such 
 was the object of his answer to the censorious epistle of Joseph 
 
78 ROBINSON AS A PASTOR. 
 
 (afterwards Bishop) Hall, and his defence of separation from the 
 Church of England in reply to- Bernard. He was besides 
 prolific in essays and treatises, which embody much practical 
 and spiritual wisdom, and was esteemed even by his opponents 
 " the most learned, polished, and modest spirit that ever that 
 sect possessed." And one distinction must not be forgotten, 
 because it stamps the gentle and generous character of the man. 
 In an age when theological disputes were waged with the bit- 
 terest rancour, and the spiritual gladiators bespattered each other 
 with a whole vocabulary of abuse, the controversial -writings 
 of Robinson exhibit as little of the prevailing infection as it was 
 possible for one in his situation not to contract. 
 
 But it is not by his writings that the pastor of Leyden wiU be 
 remembered by posterity ; like so many others of the same stamp, 
 they have become all but obsolete, or are at best referred to by 
 the curious student of theological controversy. In the silent and 
 unobtrusive labours which nourished and built up his people 
 in the midst of exile and distress, which gave comfort to 
 hearts often ready to sink amidst their trials, and courage 
 to undertake in the face of herculean difficulties a noble ajid 
 heroical enterprise, — in these is to be found his lasting monu- 
 ment. If the confidence, affection, and veneration of his flock 
 be any test of character, we may infer from the many inci- 
 dental expressions of their feelings, so frequently scattered 
 through different writings, that he was indeed the father of 
 his people. ^ 
 
 Let us now turn aside from the current of our story, and devote 
 a few pages to the chief sojourning place of the Pilgrims while 
 in Holland. 
 
 In the midst of the district of the Rhineland — a vast expanse 
 of the richest meadows in the world, adorned with seventy 
 villages — stands the ancient city in which our fugitives found a 
 refuge for twelve years ; the most peaceful, perhaps, of any in 
 their cheq^uered and trying career. Its form and outline wUl 
 
TOPOQEAPHY OF LETDEN. 79 
 
 te better gathered from the annexed map, than from verbal 
 description. 
 
 1. Sr. Peter's Church. 2. St. Pancbas Church. S. Town Hall. 
 
 The Rhine — or rather the diminished branch of that mighty 
 river, which remains after the separation of the Waal and the 
 Leek — divides itself a little above Leyden into two branches, 
 which re-unite in the centre of the city, at the foot of the ancient 
 castle called the Burg, on an artificial mound supposed to have 
 been a look-out station in the time of the Eomans. These two 
 branches are called respectively the Old and the New Rhine. 
 From these streams' other canals circulate in different directions 
 through the interior of the city, dividing it into a perfect maze 
 of islands of all shapes and sizes, connected together by bridges. 
 The walls are no longer standing, but a winding canal surrounds 
 the city, on the outer side of which is a broad promenade, com- 
 manding beautifiil views over both town and neighbourhood. 
 So much for the general topography of Leyden. We will now 
 proceed to throw together a few notices of its most prominent 
 objects. 
 
80 
 
 LEYDBN. 
 
 As we perambulate the city, its grass-grown quays, shaded 
 with trees, and the dull quietude of its slimy canals, have an 
 air of drowsiness and decay. The by-streets seem falling into 
 ruin, and the lower class of inhabitants sunk in poverty ; and 
 the population, thinly scattered, seems shrunk too small for the 
 extensive circuit over which it straggles. The main street, how- 
 ever, is one of the finest in Holland ; and the houses bordering 
 the canal called the Rapenburg, on which the University stands, 
 may vie with any in Europe for scale and elegance. Every- 
 where we see traces of the proverbial cleanliness of the Dutch. 
 The stony pavement of the main streets, and brick foot-paths, 
 are kept scrupulously clean : the panes of the windows, the 
 brass handles of the doors, are burnished into an intensity of 
 lustre. Half the time of the servants seems taken up with the 
 work of purification ; and the unwary stranger in sauntering 
 
 about is constantly exposed to a shower-bath from the machines, 
 which like fire-engines, worked by the nervous arm of a Dutch 
 
THE TOWN HALL. 
 
 81 
 
 frau, throw up columns of water against the windows and brick- 
 work of the houses, — or to a chance salute from some twirling 
 mop, or a sudden shock from one of the endless pailfuls with 
 which the foot-pavement is heing deluged. 
 
 In order to obtain a general view of the city, one cannot do 
 better than ascend the belfry of the Town-Hall. This edifice 
 
 4. l,,"^r'^l »' 
 
 ^\']] '^m%i\ 4L 
 
 stands in the centre of tne Breestraat, or noble street, the 
 principal one in the city. The date of its original erection is 
 doubtful, but it must have been in existence before the sixteenth 
 centuiy, since it blew up in 1481 with thirty-six persons. 
 After having been re-built, it was entirely re-modelled in 1597. 
 The faqade is very picturesque, the principal entiy being 
 formed by a stone staircase, which conducts to a very spacious 
 hall. Between this staircase and the guardhouse is the entrance 
 doorway to the haU of the tribunal, and the interior staircase, by 
 which there is an ascent to the different meeting rooms of the 
 magistrates. The pavement before this door is arranged in 
 circular form, so as to represent in large letters the Dutch words, 
 "Niet sonder God," (not without God,) and the year 1574, with 
 the arms of the city. Above the entrance door we read these 
 words : 
 
82 LETDEN. 
 
 " Bewaart Heer Hollant 
 En salicht Leyden" 
 
 (Lord, save Holland, and Uess Leyden),— and tlie following 
 acrostic, making the year of the siege 1574 : — 
 
 " Na sVVarte hVngersnoot 
 GebraCht hadde te doot 
 Bi naast ses dVIsend MensChen. 
 ALs't GODT den Heer Verdroot 
 Gaf M Vns Weder broot 
 Soo VeeL MVI CVnsten VYens Chen." 
 
 (After the dreadful famine had killed more than six thousand 
 people, the Omnipotent was wroth : He gave us bread to satisfy 
 our need). This acrostic has the peculiarity that its 129 letters 
 answer -to as many days as the siege lasted, (from 26th May to 
 the 3d of October, 1674.) 
 
 The memory of this event is further kept up by several 
 pictures in the Council Chamber and the Burgomaster's Hall. 
 There are to be seen the portraits of Van der Does and Van der 
 Werff. The countenances of these heroes have nothing warlike, 
 but appear kindly and benevolent— not without a shade of 
 sorrow at the miseries they had endured and witnessed, at the 
 same time full of that calm inflexible determination so charac- 
 teristic of the Dutch. A large picture by Van Bree, of Antwerpi, 
 represents the famous interview between Van der Werff and the 
 rioters to which we have already alluded; and there is another 
 old one which gives a painful idea of the scene within the city 
 when the provisions arrived — crowds rushing with all the eager- 
 ness of starvation to obtain a share. Others represent passages 
 of domestic suffering, and the whole certainly bring up most 
 vividly before the mind the terrible incidents of the siege, and 
 the persons of the principal actors. There is besides a curious 
 specimen of the style of Lucas van Leyden — a Last Judgment, in 
 tliree compartments — ^well worthy of the connoisseur's attention. 
 
 The ascent to the bell-tower, which is small and of no great 
 
>#. 
 
 S ?i. >^ 
 
 '** " 1T" '"V" .^ 
 
 o S 
 
ST. PETER'S CHTJECH. 83 
 
 height, by ladders and wooden stairs, is hy no means the easiest 
 in the world, nor did we get up without receiying sundry 
 scratches and contusions, but the scene from above amply 
 repaid us for these trifling inconveniences. Here the entire city 
 and its environs for miles around are unrolled before us, and 
 some portion of this view we have endeavoured to transfer to 
 the annexed engraving. Immediately at our feet is the ponderous 
 roof of the Town-Hall, with its quaint old windows and vanes, 
 to the right is the main street. The New Ehine is seen sweep- 
 ing through the centre of the city, as far as the wooded mount 
 called the Burg; but the other branch, the Old Rhine, is 
 concealed by the houses. The two principal churches — the 
 oldest being St. Peter's, in which Eobinson was buried, the 
 other dedicated to St. Pancras, in which is the sepulchre of Van 
 der Werflf — Hft their huge mass above all inferior buildings. 
 Hence we obtain a capital idea of the curious variety of houses 
 — a large proportion of picturesque old gables, of red brick fan- 
 tastically inlaid with stone work, olden as the time of the 
 siege, and many of which must have no doubt served as habita- 
 tions for the Pilgrims. Hence too we peep down into the narrow 
 alleys and by-lanes, amidst which the plague found its most 
 .congenial haunts, and trace the sinuous course of the rivers and 
 canals, bordered with tall trees, and enlivened with old-fashioned 
 schuyts, with gilded vanes and bright -coloured streamers. 
 Beyond the limits of the city are outspread the Polders — a 
 perfect level sea of verdure, delicious for the eye to rest upon, 
 dotted with endless windmills and villages, towers and spires 
 rising out of tufted groves, speckled with interminable flocks 
 and herds, and extending beyond the distant cities of Delft 
 and the Hague, till lost in bluish haze. Memory is easily 
 carried back to the period of the great siege, when the wide- 
 spread expanse was converted into a vast lake, across which 
 the fleet of boats advanced to the assistance of the beleaguered 
 city. 
 
84 LBTDEN. 
 
 While gazing on this landscape — where the ever-living fresh- 
 ness of nature and the grey hues of antiquity, the memory of 
 by-gone times, and the fugitive brilliancy of the passing hour, 
 mingle so beautifully together — the chimes burst forth ; 
 
 " Low and loud, and sweetly blended. 
 Low at times, and loud at times. 
 Changing like a poet's rhymes." 
 
 The half-mournful, half-lively notes trembled in the air, vibrating 
 around the old vanes and gables, sometimes breaking out into 
 thrilling peals, and then dying away in melancholy cadence upon 
 the distant air. Charles Lamb has said that the music of bells 
 is nighest to that of heaven, and one might almost wish to 
 live in Holland to enjoy the pleasure of hearing them every 
 hour. 
 
 After descending from this elevated post, the next object that 
 drew our attention was St. Peter's Church, the burial-place of 
 Robinson, who, as will be mentioned hereafter, died in 1625, 
 some years after the body of the Pilgrims had removed to 
 America. This church is of very ancient foundation, having, 
 as is supposed, been built in 1121. Externally it is a vast, 
 ponderous pile, with little architectural beauty, and what sym- 
 metry it possesses marred by a number of small houses built up 
 against it. Through one of these, being the abode of the verger, 
 we obtained access by sundry windings and turnings to the 
 interior of the sacred edifice. Its size is enormous, the nave 
 having two aisles on each side ; yet, like the exterior, it has little 
 to recommend it on the score of beauty. In the days of Catholic 
 supremacy, its immensity was relieved with statues and pictures ; 
 but all these evidences of idolatry were ruthlessly swept away at 
 the Eeformation, and the building, neatly whitewashed — to use 
 the words of Andrew Fairservice — appeared " as crouse as a cat 
 with a' the fleas kaimed off her." 
 
 Here I had amusing evidence of the utter absence of a feeling 
 
aOBINSON's BURIAL-PLACE. 85 
 
 of sanctity attached to Protestant churches in Holland. The 
 woman who showed it, on finding that I should be some time 
 inside, coolly handed in some chairs fi'om her kitchen, and 
 bringing out a basin of water and a barrel of potatoes, went on 
 peeling the latter with the greatest phlegm imaginable. The 
 shirts and breeches of her youthfdl heir were meanwhile hung 
 out to dry on a string suspended between two ornaments, where 
 they had not improbably been washed before ; and presently the 
 young hopeful, in his wooden shoes, came in clattering from 
 school, and romping about; the sacred edifice thus serving at 
 once for kitchen, wash-house, dryiag-ground, and play-ground, 
 and heaven only knows what other profane purposes beside ! 
 
 We owe the knowledge of Kobinson's burial-place to the 
 persevering researches of Mr. Sumner. It appears from the 
 letter of Roger White to the American Pilgrims, quoted by him, 
 and dated Leyden, April 28th, 1625, that the venerable pastor 
 was gradually declining for several days before his death, 
 " feeling little or no pain, yet sensible to the very last," and that 
 he expired on the 1st of March. He distinctly states that he 
 was free of the plague which was at that time raging in Leyden, 
 so that his friends were enabled to have free access to him. In 
 Blossom's letter to Bradford, we read that " he was taken away 
 as fruit falleth before it was ripe, when neither length of days 
 nor infirmity of body did seem to call for his end. The Lord 
 even then took him away, as it were in his anger ; whom, if tears 
 would have held, he had remained to this day." Winslow, in 
 his apology, declares that " the University and ministers of the 
 city accompanied him to his grave with all their accustomed 
 solemnities, bewailing the great loss that not only that particular 
 church had whereof he was pastor, but some of the chief of them 
 sadly affirmed that all the churches of Christ sustaiaed a loss by 
 the death of that worthy instrument of the Gospel." Although 
 Winslow was in America at the time of his writing, and could 
 therefore only have spoken by information, we should yet have 
 
86 XEIDEN. 
 
 imagined that his information would have been correct ; and 
 when we consider that Rohinson had obtained the freedom 
 of the University, and had become a prominent character 
 through his controversy with Episcopius, undertaken at the 
 request of the leading Dutch divines, such funeral honours might 
 reasonably enough have been rendered by them. Mr. Sumner, 
 however, expresses his doubts as to the fact, especially as the 
 plague was raging in the city, and public fanerals were sus- 
 pended. 
 
 The account of Mr. Sumner's discoveries is best given in his 
 own words : — 
 
 " It was not without some difficulty that 1 found at Leyden 
 the place of Robinson's grave, being misled at first by the state- 
 ment of Prince, that he was buried in a church which had been 
 granted to his congregation. Having sought at the Stadt House 
 and at other places for some record, without success, I at last, in 
 a small closet attached to the cathedral church of St. Peter, full 
 of old dust-covered volumes, fell upon one which contained a 
 record of the receipts of the different churches in Leyden from 
 1619 to 16^9. Most of these receipts were for burial-fees ; and 
 on looking over the lists of each church for the year 1625, the 
 year of Robinson's death, I found the receipt for his interment at 
 the Peter's Kerk, the church in which I then was. The title of 
 this manuscript volume is ' Blaffaarden van de Hoofd-Kerken, 
 ad 1619 tot 1629 ;' and the receipt for Robinson's burial, an 
 attested fac-simile of ^hich I send with this, is in the following 
 words : — 
 
 " 1625, ) Openen en. huer van Jan Robens, 
 10 Mart. / engels predekant . . 9 florins. 
 
 "Open and hire for John Robens, 
 English preacher. . 9 florins. 
 
 " This sum of nine florins is the lowest paid for any person 
 whose burial is recorded. Mr. Van Pecker, who, under the 
 
THE 6EATENB0ECK. 87 
 
 Director-General at the Hague, is the administrator of the affairs 
 of the churches in Leyden, and who is well acquainted with the 
 mode of interment at different periods, informed me that this 
 sum was paid only for the hire for a few years of a place imme- 
 diately xmder the pavement, in one of a large numher of square 
 pits, containing space sufficient for four coffins. At the end of 
 seven years, these hodies were all removed. For tomhs which 
 were walled up, the prices paid were much higher. The pro- 
 fession of each person buried is named in the register ; and those 
 against whose names the receipt of nine florins is put were, I 
 found, invariably persons in the humblest walks of life, journey- 
 men weavers, &c. ; while others, who are noted as mechanics or 
 artisans, were buried in places of fifteen and eighteen florins. 
 While looking over this record, Mr. Van Pecker remembered that, 
 previously to 1812, there had been ijx the hands of the secretary 
 of the Kerkmeesters a Gravenboeck, or general record of burials 
 in Leyden. During that year, this book was deposited among the 
 archives at the Stadt House, where it now is. The record of 
 Eobinson's interment, as it appears there, I shall give in a 
 note, merely mentioning here, that, while the day of his death is 
 stated in Roger White's letter to be the 1st of March, the day of 
 his funeral appears by the Gravenboeck to have been the 4th of 
 March, and the day on which the interment fees were paid 
 appears by the church receipt-book to have been the 10th of 
 March." 
 
 The record in the Gravenboeck, or Book of Interments, thus 
 alluded to by Mr. Sumner, is as follows : — 
 
 " 1625. 
 
 " 4 Maart.— Jan Roelends, Predicant van de Engelsche Gemeeute, 
 bv het Klockhnijs, — ^begraven in de Pieter's Kerk. 
 
 " Translation. 
 
 " John Roelends, Preacher of the English sect, by the Belfry, — 
 buried in the Peter's Chirrch." 
 
88 LETDEN. 
 
 Mr. Sumner points out a singular error committed by Prince, 
 who says, — " When I was at Leyden, in 1714, the most ancient 
 people, from their parents, told me that the city had such a 
 value for them (the Pilgrims) as to let them have one of their 
 churches, in the chancel whereof he (Eobinson) lies buried." 
 It is hardly necessary to point out that the largest church in 
 the city, capable of holding many thousand people, could never 
 have been granted to a small and obscure congregation of 
 foreigners, even if, as will presently appear, it were not ex- 
 tremely questionable whether they ever received the grant of a 
 place of worship. 
 
 The aisles of St. Peter's Church are paved with tombstones, 
 many of which have the armorial bearings of noble families, and 
 not a few cover the remains of distinguished members of the 
 University; but the footsteps of centuries have obliterated the 
 inscriptions upon many, and it is but little probable that any 
 ever bore the name of Eobinson. This church also contains the 
 monuments of many eminent men, such as Boerhaave, Camper, 
 and Scaliger, one of the most illustrious ornaments of the 
 University. 
 
 It may well be supposed that the £rst place sought out at 
 Leyden by the American pilgrim, would be the church where 
 his venerated forefathers worshiped. He inquired very natur- 
 ally for the old English church, — and three small chapels, the 
 St. Catherine's Almshouse, the Faly de Bagyn Hof, and the 
 Jerusalem Hof, were shown as the genuine localities. Mrs. 
 Adams, the wife of President John Adams, wi-ote thus in 1786 : 
 " I would not omit to mention that I visited the church at 
 Leyden, in which our forefathers worshipped when they fled from 
 hierarchical tyranny and oppression. I felt a respect and vener- 
 ation upon entering the doors, like what the ancients paid to 
 their Druids." Pity that so much genuine enthusiasm should 
 have been directed to a mistaken object, but there can be little 
 doubt that such is really the case. For so faint was the im- 
 
lisle of 8? Peters CKurcli. 
 LEYDEN. 
 

NOTICES OF UOBINSON'S HOUSE. 89 
 
 pression left by a handful of obscure sectaries, that their separate 
 existence had become forgotten, the very Professors remember- 
 ing nothing of them; and they had become confounded with 
 another and distinct congregation of English Presbyterians, 
 established at Leyden under the patronage of the Dutch Govern- 
 ment, almost at the very time the Pilgrims themselves came 
 there. To this congregation, as Mr. Sumner ascertained, from 
 examining the minute local histories and records, the above- 
 mentioned chapels were granted — conclusively proving that 
 they never could have been in the occupation of the Pil- 
 grims. And, besides the absolute want of any positive evi- 
 dence to show that any other was ever granted, it is, in itself, 
 highly improbable that such should have been the case. When 
 the Pilgrims were under the special ban of King James, and 
 endeavours were being made to seize the person of Brewster, 
 it is hardly to be supposed that the Dutch, who were on political 
 grounds desirous of conciliating the English monarch, should 
 have openly given them any countenance, or allotted to them 
 a church or chapel. It has with far greater probability been 
 conjectured that Robinson's house, which is described as being 
 " large " by Bradford, was the place where they assembled for 
 their religious services. 
 
 And where then was B,obinson's house, thus interesting by so 
 many associations ? All that is known of it seems to be summed 
 up in Mr. Sumner's extract, from the burial record already 
 cited, viz. that it was by the " Klokhuis " or Belfry; and that 
 gentleman observes that Eobinson's house was " probably taken 
 down a few years after his death, as a row of small buildings 
 now occupies its site, which were put there ab6ut the year 1650." 
 Elsewhere he observes, " that near the Belfry of Leyden there 
 was a large square, on one side alone of which were a few houses, 
 so that such a direction was perhaps sufficiently explicit." 
 Singularly enough, I could hear of no such building in Leyden 
 as the "Klokhuis," or, in French, "Clocher;" it is not to be 
 
 a 
 
90 LETDEN UNTVERSITT. 
 
 found on the map of the city, nor did I see any edifice that 
 appeared to answer to the purpose, I am therefore inclined to 
 think it must either have been pulled down, or that the tower of 
 St. Peter's Church, now fallen down, was the belfry alluded 
 to. In front of this church, there is a square, fdl of trees and 
 houses only on one side of it, though a public office occupies 
 the other. It is, I fear, as impossible with certainty to discover 
 the house of Robinson, even if left standing, as it is to fix upon 
 his grave. 
 
 The " Jerusalem Hof," which so many have supposed to be 
 the genuine Church of the Pilgrims, is situated on a small canal, 
 called the Broedertges Gracht, and has on its front wall the arms 
 of the Brewers. It was granted, Mr. Sumner observes, to the 
 English Presbyterian Church in 1622, three years before the 
 death of Eobinson, and he justly observes that had it been 
 previously in possession of the Pilgrims, it is improbable they 
 could have been driven out of it to make room for another. It 
 may be added, that though there is a printed list of the Presby- 
 terian preachers, no notice of Robinson or his congregation 
 could be discovered in the records. 
 
 A brief notice is due to the University, of which Eobinson 
 became a member. Founded, as already stated, shortly after the 
 memorable siege, it soon became famous throughout Europe. 
 Most of its eminent men are known only to Dutch literature and 
 science ; but Boerhaave, the Hippocrates of late years, Camper, 
 whose discoveries formed a prelude to those of Cuvier, Arminius, 
 Episcopius, Grotius, Vossius, Descartes, Scaliger, and Sal- 
 masius, enjoy an European reputation. The buildings of the 
 University show but poorly after the splendid foundations of 
 Oxford and Cambridge, but the Museum of Natural History is 
 one of the most complete in Europe ; that of Egyptian and other 
 antiquities, situated in the Breedstraat, is well worthy of in- 
 spection. There is also a curious collection illustrating the state 
 of Japan. The Botanical Gardens have been greatly enlarged, and 
 
V. 
 
 V \ 
 
 o 
 
 I 
 
 
 i«i^f» I'i 
 
 liHl 
 
ENVIRONS OP LEYDEN. 
 
 91 
 
 form a delightful and instructive promenade. The existence of 
 this University gives a tone of refinement to Leyden, as many 
 families of high respectability have settled there, in order to avail 
 themselves of its educational advantages. 
 
 Before leaving Leyden, we walked out to those spots in the 
 environs connected with the great siege. Leaving the city by the 
 Witport, we followed the outer side of the canal encircling the 
 town, which, as before observed, is now laid out as a public 
 walk, elevated some trifling degree above the level of the 
 neighbouring marshes. It is bordered by one of those stagnant 
 ditches — in Holland perfectly innumerable — covered with green, 
 and adorned with flowering reeds, and white and yellow lilies. 
 Numerous pleasure gardens, laid out with shady plantations and 
 tufts of roses and carnations, abut upon this ditch, and there 
 is invariably a trim pleasure-house or pavilion directly over- 
 hanging it ; the sight of stagnant water, and the smell arising 
 from it, being, as some facetious traveller has observed, no doubt 
 peculiarly congenial to the constitution of a Dutchman. In about 
 a quarter of an hour we reached a spot called Lammen, where stood 
 the last entrenchment from which the half-drowned Spaniards 
 beat a retreat. Hence retracing our steps to the promenade, we 
 continued to follow it for a considerable distance, crossing both 
 branches of the Rhine, and then turning down a lane, soon 
 reached the " Spaniard's Bridge," as it is called, from being 
 the advanced post of the enemy in that direction. 
 
 But to_ return to the Pilgrims. During their sojourn at Leyden, 
 they were joined by two personages destined henceforth to occupy 
 an important position in their affairs. The first was Captain 
 Myles Standish, whose origin and character haiVe been already 
 noticed, and who, falling in with Robinson and his flock, was 
 induced, either from sympathy with their principles, or by the 
 love of stirring adventure, to cast in his lot with them, and 
 accompany them to the New World. The second was Mr. 
 Edward Winslow, a gentleman of good family at Droitwich, in 
 
 g2 
 
92 CONDITION Of THE HLGRIMS : 
 
 Worcestershire, who with his wife happened to be travelling on 
 the Continent, and who, already in all probahility a Puritan, 
 arrived at Leyden in 1617, where he became an influential member 
 of Robinson's church, three years before their departure for 
 America. 
 
 Among the friends and associates of Eobinson, when at Leyden, 
 was Henry Jacob, who had also been a minister of the English 
 church, and beneficed at Cheriton in Kent, and had like him 
 become a convert tO' the doctrines of the Independents. It woidd 
 appear that a body of these separatists had been formed in 
 Southwark, whose pastor, John Greenwood, was thrown into 
 prison for his principles. Being one day visited by his friend and 
 fellow-coUegian, Heniy Barrowe, the jailor turned the key upon 
 them both. Barrowe was then carried before the commissioners 
 appointed by Archbishop Whitgift, and persisting in the asser- 
 tion and defence of his principles, became a fellow-captive with 
 Greenwood. Twice were these resolute confessors taken to the 
 foot of the gaUows, but refasing to recant, were finally executed 
 at Tyburn. Another martyr to the same cause was John Penry, 
 executed at Southwark in 1593. These cruelties were of no 
 avail, for others were ready to take up the same cause with 
 unflinching courage. Such was Francis Johnson, who while in 
 prison wrote a treatise in honour of separation. Jacob, who had 
 written in defence of the church, engaged in controversy with 
 Johnson, and at length became a convert to his principles. He 
 visited Robinson, who no doubt confirmed him in his views, 
 and returning to England, collected together the scattered 
 members of the Southwark congregation, and formed a fresh 
 chiu-ch after the Independent model, which has subsisted to the 
 present day. He escaped the fate of his predecessors, and after 
 remaining in Southwark eight years, at length joined the Leyden 
 pilgrims, and died among them. 
 
 What was the state of the English exiles during their twelve 
 years' residence in Holland? The most probable supposition 
 
S /i -s-t ' 
 
 1'%^ 
 
 
 Q 'S 
 
THKm POVERTY. 93 
 
 would be, that although, free from the persecution they were 
 exposed to in England, they might relatively — and Bradford 
 says they did — " continue many years in a comfortahle condition, 
 enjoying much sweet and delightful society, and spiritual comfort 
 together in the ways of God j" yet that their worldly circum- 
 stances were for the most part bordering on indigence and priva- 
 tion. If, when at Amsterdam, they had to fear the " grim and 
 grizelled face of poverty," it must have required a constant 
 struggle to keep the wolf from the door at Leyden. This is, 
 indeed, plainly stated by Bradford as one of the reasons which 
 led them to desire a removal. " They found," he says, " and saw 
 by experience, the hardness of the place to be such as few in com- 
 parison would come to them, and fewer that would bide it out 
 and continue with them ; and this because they " could not 
 endure the great labour and hard fare, with other inconveniences, 
 which they underwent and were contented with." But though 
 they loved their persons, and approved their cause, and honoured 
 their sufferings, yet they left them as it were weeping, as Orpah 
 did her mother-in-law Naomi, or as those Romans did Cato in 
 Utica, who desired to be excused and borne with, though they 
 could not all be Catos. Many, indeed, prefened prisons in 
 England rather than liberty in Holland with these afflictions. 
 Moreover, those who bore up against their trials while in the 
 strength of manhood, yet were overtaken by old age, which 
 " their great and continual labours, with other trials and sorrows, 
 hastened before the time;" so that it was too evident, in a few 
 years more, they " would scatter by the pressure of necessity, or 
 sink under their burdens, or both." A melancholy picture 
 this indeed ! 
 
 That they enjoyed the respect and confidence of the town's 
 people for their honest, hard-working qualities, we have the 
 evidence of Bradford, who also tells us that, shortly before they 
 came away, the magistrates gave honourable testimony to their 
 peaceable disposition, by thus reproving the French Protestants : 
 
94 
 
 FLEMISH MANNERS. 
 
 " These English," said they, " have lived among us now this 
 twelve years, and yet we never had any suit or accusation come 
 against any of them ; while your strifes and quarrels are con- 
 tinual." Yet that, further than this approval, they received any 
 special protection or favour, would he very improbable, inasmuch 
 as the animosity of King James pursued them to their 
 retreat, and by the influence which he exercised through his 
 ambassador over the magistrates, would have prevented any open 
 recognition or patronage on their part. 
 
 Besides the pressure of poverty, they had the grief to see that 
 as their children grew up, they began unavoidably to imbibe 
 a tincture of the manners prevailing iaroimd them — far freer than 
 was agreeable to their rigid notions of separation from the 
 pleasures of the world. If we may judge from the favourite 
 representations of Dutch masters, though painted at a somewhat 
 later date, the boors of Holland were as much addicted to 
 drinking and revelry as the peasantry of England ; and to live 
 
 amidst such scenes and groups as the pencil of Teniers has here 
 depicted, must have vexed the austere spirits of the Pilgrims as 
 
PROPOSALS TO EMIGBATE. 95 
 
 much as the wakes and bull-baitings of the mother country. 
 Some of the younger members, perhaps, recoiling from their 
 extreme strictness as an insupportable yoke, became dissolute 
 and reckless, and a sorrow and scandal to their families. 
 Another cause of concern was, that the Sabbath was so loosely 
 observed in Holland. It is well known that the Protestant 
 churches of the Continent permitted a part of that day to be 
 devoted to exercise and recreation ; and we have already said 
 that the heads of the Church of England had pubHshed a " Book 
 of Sports," prescribing what amusements should be held lawful 
 after service.- But this was a laxity of practice which shocked 
 the ideas of the Puritans and Separatists, formed as they were 
 rather after the Old than New Testament model, and they dreaded 
 its contagious influence upon the morals of their own children. 
 It became evident, in short, that if they desired to transmit to 
 their descendants that policy and those manners to which they 
 were devotedly attached, they must withdraw to a scene where 
 they could do so without any fear of interruption. 
 
 This desire was strengthened by a most honourable motive — 
 patriotic regard to the coimtry which had driven them forth. 
 Persecuted as they had been at home, and even followed across 
 the sea by the spiteful animosity of James, they were yet proud 
 of the name of Enghshmen, and justly feared lest their descend- 
 ants should gradually be absorbed amidst a nation of foreigners, 
 untU all trace of then- origin was dissipated. " Lastly," (and 
 which was not the least,) to use the words of Bradford, " a great 
 hope and inward zeal they had of laying some good foundation, 
 or, at least, to make some way thereunto, for the propagating and 
 advancing the Gospel of the kingdom of Christ in these remote 
 parts of the world; yea, though they should be but as stepping- 
 stones unto others for performing of so great a work." 
 
 Moved by considerations thus urgent, many of the leading 
 men had long nourished a project for emigrating to some part of 
 America, where they might lay the foundation of a state to be 
 
96 DISCUSSIONS, 
 
 modelled after their own peculiar policy, and where the language 
 and laws of their native land might happily he perpetuated. No 
 sooner was this design made known, than it threw the little com- 
 munity into a state of the greatest excitement. On one hand, 
 the sanguine and adventurous endeavoured to stir up their 
 brethren to undertake so glorious an enterprise; but on the 
 other, the imagination of the timid pictured a long catalogue 
 of the most formidable obstacles. The perils and fatigue of a 
 long voyage across a stormy ocean, to which it was feared the 
 more aged and delicate might prove unequal, were alone enough 
 to deter them ; but, supposing the voyage to be happily accom- 
 plished, they would then be only on the threshold of their 
 troubles. Famine, nakedness, and cold, the deleterious influence 
 of a different air and an inferior diet, and, above all, the dread of 
 the savage tribes, of whose barbarous cruelties too many in- 
 stances had already been given in the plantation of Virginia, 
 filled their minds with dismal and terrifying anticipations. 
 Finally, the great expense to be incurred — their past experience 
 of the misery of a removal — and the apprehension lest, after all 
 their sacrifices, the enterprise should, like so many preceding 
 ones, turn out a failure — increased their reluctance to undertake 
 this second and more distant emigration. 
 
 At length, however, the bolder counsel prevailed, and the 
 majority determined to embrace it. But whither to go, was 
 the next question. The Dutch, it is said, on learning their 
 intention to emigrate, were so loth to part with such useful 
 and peaceable refugees, that they offered to settle them upon 
 the soil of Zealand; or, if they persisted in their desire to 
 go abroad, offered them favourable terms to join their infant 
 settlement of New Amsterdam, now New York, at the mouth 
 of the Hudson river, discovered in 1609 by Henry Hudson, 
 an English captain. Sir Walter Ealeigh depicted Guiana in 
 colours so glowing — as a paradise where nature produced spon- 
 taneously all that was necessary for human enjoyment — that the 
 
HNAL EESOLUTION. 97 
 
 imagination of not a few was dazzled with the splendid picture. 
 Bnt the more sober among them reflected that a tropical climate 
 was enervating to the English constitution, and that besides they 
 would be in too close proximity to the Spaniards, the natural 
 enemy of all Protestants. The settlements in Virginia were next 
 proposed, but in them EpiscopaHanism had been exclusively esta- 
 blished by law ; and it was justly objected that they might as well 
 or better return to England to the tender mercies of the king and 
 bishops, than expose themselves to their fury in a distant land, 
 where, if persecuted, they could meet neither succour, nor defence, 
 nor refuge. Every way they seemed hedged in and crippled. A 
 single opening at length appeared — it was to settle in some place 
 by themselves, within the territory of the Virginia Company, and 
 to obtain from his Majesty, if possible, a special dispensation of 
 freedom of religion in this their new abode. This resolution being 
 taken, Robert Cushman and John Carver, two influential members 
 whose names for the first time come forward in the story, were 
 sent over to London to negotiate with the Virginia Company. 
 
 The sea-board of North America had been parcelled out by 
 James to two separate Companies, one of which had liberty 
 to colonize fi'om the 34th to the 45th degree of latitude, and 
 the second Company from the 38th to the 45th. It was to 
 the first Company that the agents of the Pilgrims applied, and 
 far from meeting with any difficulty, were welcomed by them as 
 a very desirable body of settlers. But it was far otherwise when 
 they sought to obtain a special promise of liberty of worship from 
 the king; for James's hatred to Puritans and Separatists had 
 attained the very climax of bitterness, and the most vigorous 
 edicts had lately been issued against them. It was hardly then 
 to be expected that he should concede to a body of men, already 
 the special objects of his dislike, a privilege which he had reso- 
 lutely denied to them in England. Sir Edwin Sandys and other 
 leading personages connected with the Company, used all their 
 influence to induce the Secretary of State and the Archbishop of 
 
98 SIR EDWIN SANDYS. 
 
 Canterbury to soften the inflexible resolution of the king ; but all 
 that could be obtained was a verbal promise, that " provided thej 
 carried themselves peaceably, no molestation should be offered 
 them on religious grounds." To many this tacit assurance of 
 immunity seemed far from satisfactory; but by others it was 
 justly observed that if the king and council should desire to per- 
 secute them, " a seal as broad as the house floor" would be but 
 a sorry protection, and that here, as in all instances, they must 
 rely on the guidance of Providence. 
 
 Here we light upon another curious link traced by the critical 
 research of Mr. Hunter. It would clearly appear that there was 
 a family connexion between Brewster and Sir Edwin Sandys, 
 " which," as he observes, " may account for the zeal which Sir 
 Edwin showed in the cause when Brewster applied to him for 
 assistance in 1617, when Sandys was treasurer, or at least an in- 
 fluential member, of the Virginia Company. It was then chiefly 
 by Sir Edwin's influence at court that the difficulties were over- 
 come, and the church then at Leyden obtained the king's per- 
 mission to remove to New England, and live there as subjects to 
 his Majesty, but with the fall permission to enjoy all possible 
 religious freedom. This early connexion of Brewster with the 
 family of Sandys shows us the fitness of the selection of him by 
 the church to negotiate the business in London, if we may not 
 even go so far as to presume that Brewster saw, in the influence 
 which Sir Edwin Sandys possessed in the affairs of the Virginia 
 Company, that a favourable moment had arrived for gaining the 
 permission which it was known the court was too unwilling to 
 grant. Sir Edwin Sandys," adds Mr. Hunter, " was a person of 
 a deeply religious turn of mind, and at the same time what in 
 these days would be called a liberal, both in theology and 
 political science. In the next generation his family were among 
 the sternest opponents of the measures of the king. How 
 heartily he entered into the design appears from a letter to 
 Kobinson and Brewster, dated November 13th, 1617, printed in 
 
NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE ENGLISH GOVERNMENT. 99 
 
 Hubbard's History. ' And so I betake you, with the design 
 which I hope verily is the work of God, to the gracious protection 
 and blessing of the Holy Ghost.' " 
 
 Through the influence of Sir Edwin Sandys, the Secretary of 
 State, Sir Eobert Naunton, was induced to apply to King James, 
 entreating him to give his countenance to the Separatists, skil- 
 fully representing to his Majesty the political advantages to be 
 derived from his compliance. James said that it was a good 
 notion, and then asking what profits might arise from the scheme, 
 it was answered, Fishing ; to which he replied, with his ordinary 
 asseveration, — " So God have my soul, 'tis an honest trade ; 'twas 
 the apostles' own calling." And not only was it apostolic, but 
 profitable withal, — the cod fisheries, both by the French and- 
 English, having hitherto been the chief inducements- for visiting 
 the northern coasts of America, upon which none but small 
 fishing stations had yet been established. And thus it long 
 continued to be after the settlement at Plymouth. There is an 
 anecdote to this purpose of one who was addressing some of the 
 northern settlers in a religio-patriotic vein, when he was drily 
 interrupted by one of the hearers — " Sir, you mistake the matter ; 
 you think you are speaking to the people of the Bay — our chief 
 end here was to catch fish." 
 
 The afiiair was not settled without much anxious correspon- 
 dence and negotiation, A statement of their religious views, 
 conforming in the main to the French Eeformed Churches, but 
 distinctly asserting the main principle of Congregationalism, was 
 submitted to the Privy Council. To the Company was sent also 
 a declaration of their motives and expectations, so interesting 
 that we shall quote it in full : — 
 
 I. " We verily believe and trust the Lord is with us, unto 
 whom and whose service we have given ourselves in many trials ; 
 and that he will graciously prosper our endeavours according to 
 the simplicity of our hearts therein. 
 
 II. " We are well weaned from the delicate milk of our. mother 
 
100 NEGOTIATIONS PROTEACTBa). 
 
 country, and inured to the difficulties of a hard and strange land, 
 which yet in great part our hourly patience overcomes. 
 
 III. " The people are, for the hody of them, rudustrious and fru- 
 gal, we think we may safely say , as any body of people in the world. 
 
 IV. " We are knit together as a body in a more strict and 
 sacred bond and covenant of the Lord, of the violation whereof 
 we make great conscience, and by virtue whereof we do hold 
 ourselves straitly tied to all care of each other's good, and of the 
 whole by every, and so mutual. 
 
 V. " And, lastly, it is not with us as with other men, whom 
 small things can discourage, or small discontentments cause to 
 wish themselves at home again. We know our entertainment in 
 England and Holland. We shall much prejudice both our arts 
 and means by removal, where, if we should be driven to return, 
 we should not hope to recover our present helps and comforts, 
 neither indeed look ever to attain the like in any other place 
 during our lives, which are now drawing toward their period." 
 
 At length this long and weary business, farther protracted by 
 dissensions in the Virginia Company, drew to a close. A patent 
 was granted under their seal, and certain conditions mutually 
 agreed upon. These bore very hard upon the poor exiles, and 
 that they should have been obliged to submit to them sufficiently 
 proved the scantiness of their resources. Each adult was to be 
 rated at the value of ten pounds, and that sum to be accounted a 
 single share. At the expiration of seven years, the capital and 
 profits were to be equally divided between the adventurers, even 
 including the houses and lands of the planters. This last condi- 
 tion was very distressing, but peremptorily insisted on by the 
 merchants, and " necessity having no law, the emigrants were 
 constrained to be silent." 
 
 The terms agreed upon were as follows : — 
 
 I. The adventurers and planters do agree, that every person 
 that goeth, being sixteen years old and upwards, be rated at ten 
 pounds, and that ten pounds be accounted a single share. 
 
AETICLES AGREED UPON. 101 
 
 II. That he that goeth in person, and famisheth himself out 
 with ten pounds, either iu money or other provisions, be accounted 
 as having twenty pounds in stock, and in the division shall 
 receive a double share. 
 
 in. The persons transported and the adventurers shall con- 
 tinue their joint-stock and partnership the space of seven years, 
 except some unexpected impediments do cause the whole Com- 
 pany to agree otherwise, during which time aU profits and 
 benefits that are gotten by trade, traffic, trucking, working, 
 fishing, or any other means, of any other person or persons, 
 shall remain still in the common stock until the division. 
 
 IV. That at their coming there, they shall choose out such a 
 number of fit persons as may famish their ships and boats for 
 fishing upon the sea; employing the rest ia their several faculties 
 upon the land, as building houses, tilling and planting the 
 ground, and making such commodities as shall be most useful 
 for the colony. 
 
 V. That at the end of the seven years, the capital and the 
 profits, viz. the houses, lands, goods, and chattels, be equally 
 divided among the adventurers. If any debt or detriment con- 
 cerning this adventure [the rest wanting.] 
 
 VI. Whosoever cometh to the colony hereafter, or putteth 
 anything into the stock, shall, at the end of the seven years, be 
 allowed proportionally to the time of his so doing. 
 
 Vii. He that shall carry his wife, or children, or servants, 
 shall be allowed for every person, now aged sixteen years and 
 upwards, a single share in the division, or if he provides them 
 necessaries, a double share, or if they be between ten years old 
 and sixteen, then two of them to be reckoned for a person, both 
 in transportation and division. 
 
 Viil. That such children that now go, and are under the age 
 of ten years, have no other share in the division than fifty acres 
 of unmanured land. 
 
 IX. That such persons as die before the seven years be 
 
102 PIONEERS. 
 
 expired, their executors to have their parts or shares at the 
 division, proportionably to the time of their life in th6 colony. 
 
 X. That all such persons as are of the colony, are to have 
 meat, drink, and apparel, and all provisions out of the common 
 stock and goods of the said colony. 
 
 The difference between the conditions thus expressed, and the 
 former before their alteration, stood in these two points : first, 
 that the houses and lands improved, especially gardens and 
 home fields, should remain undivided, wholly to the planters, 
 at the seven years' end; secondly, that the planters should 
 have two days in the week for their own private employment, 
 for the comfort of themselves and their families, especially such 
 as had them to take care for. The altering of these two con- 
 ditions was very afHictive to the minds of such as were con- 
 cerned in the voyage. But Mr. Cushman, their principal agent, 
 answered the complaints peremptorily, that unless they had so 
 ordered the conditions, the whole design would have fallen to 
 the ground, and necessity, they said, having no law, they were 
 constrained to be silent. The poor planters met with much 
 difficulty both before and after the expiring of the seven years, 
 and found much trouble in making accounts with the adven- 
 turers about the division, at which time, though those that 
 adventured their money were no great gainers, yet those that 
 adventured their lives in carrying on the business of the plan- 
 tation were by much the greatest sufferers. 
 
 These preliminaries being settled, the question arose — Since 
 all who were willing could not immediately get ready, which 
 of them should go forth as pioneers to open a path for theii- 
 brethren ? A day was solemnly set apart for this selection, and 
 Robinson took occasion to encourage and strengthen the aspi- 
 rants. The youngest and strongest might naturally be expected 
 to volunteer, and among these was William Bradford. As it 
 was agreed that Robinson himself should remain at Leyden with 
 those who were to be left behind, Brewster, though unordained, 
 
PURCHASE 01' THE " SPEEDWELL." 103 
 
 was chosen to fulfil the office of minister. Winslow and his 
 wife, Carver, and Cushman, who had conducted the negotiations 
 to an issue, and last, hut not least. Captain Myles Standish, 
 a man of courage and conduct, and a main stay in the event of 
 hostilities with the Indians, prepared themselves for the arduous 
 enterprise. 
 
 Those who had decided to go now threw their little property 
 into the common stock, in order to meet the expenses of the 
 voyage, a.nd gathering together any articles of furniture endeared 
 to them hy old associations, held themselves in readiness to set 
 out. The list included men of all ages, and of different ranks 
 and circumstances. Thomas Weston, agent for the Merchants, 
 now came from London to conclude the final arrangement ; and 
 Carver and Cushman were again sent over — the former to South- 
 ampton, the latter to London — to receive the necessary funds, 
 and to make preparations for the voyage. Two small vessels 
 had heen purchased — one in Holland, called the " Speedwell," 
 of only sixty tons burthen, partly to serve as a transport, and 
 partly as a fishing boat, for service in America; the other, 
 called the " Mayflower," of a hundred and eighty tons burthen, 
 was to await their arrival in England, where it was probable 
 they would be joined by a few of their fellow-separatists from 
 London. 
 
 All things being at length arranged, those who had decided to 
 go prepared for their long voyage. The brief notices of the parting 
 scene given by Winslow and Bradford, • eye-witnesses and 
 sharers of its bitterness, possess a biblical simplicity and pathos 
 far beyond the most laboured description. " So being ready to 
 depart," says the latter, " they had a day of solemn humiliation, 
 their pastor taking his text from Ezra viii. 21 : ' And there, at 
 the river, by Ahava, I proclaimed a fast, that we might humble 
 ourselves before our God, and seek a right way for us and for 
 our children, and for all our substance.' " Winslow further 
 narrates, that " when the ship was ready to carry us away, the 
 
104 DEPAETURE FROM LEYDEN. 
 
 brethren that stayed at Leyden feasted us that were to go at 
 our pastor's house, being large, where we refreshed ourselves, 
 after tears, with singing of psabns, making joyful melody in our 
 hearts as well as with the voice, there being many of this con- 
 gregation very expert in music, and indeed it was the sweetest 
 melody that ever mine ears heard." " And the time being come 
 that they must depart, they were accompanied with the most of 
 their brethren out of the city, unto a town sundry miles off, called 
 Delfthaven, where the ship lay ready to receive them. So they 
 left that goodly and pleasant city, which had been their resting- 
 place near twelve years. But they knew they were pilgeims, 
 and looked not much to those things, but lifted their eyes to 
 heaven, their dearest country, and quieted their spirits." 
 
 On their way from Leyden to the place of embarkation, the 
 Pilgrims must have passed directly through the fine old city of 
 Delft. Twenty years ago the writer found its gates still standing, 
 and committed them to his sketch-book; and they are now 
 produced as a curious specimen of the old Dutch fortifications, 
 and as a halting-place of the exiles on their melancholy way, 
 exactly as it was in their time — the canal being that which 
 passes through the city from Leyden to Delfthaven. These 
 ancient gates, of mingled brick and stone, and pierced above and 
 below with holes for musketry, with machicolations and port- 
 cullises, recall the terrible days of the Spanish struggle. There 
 is a painting of them in the gallery at the Hague, showing a 
 third gate, demolished at the time of the author's first visit ; and, 
 since that time, the whole have been swept away. These gates 
 are besides curious, as showing the style of architecture intro- 
 duced by the Hollanders into America. Such were the gables 
 that adorned the cities of New Amsterdam and Fort Orange 
 (New York and Albany) in the primitive days of the Dutch 
 dominion ; and some lingering traces of them are stUl to be seen 
 in those cities — relics of the olden time, which the antiquary 
 delights to hunt out. The elegant tower of the New Church, 
 
J-^ 1 
 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
COTJUSE TO DELFTHAVEN. . 105 
 
 tuilt in 1381, and rising to tte height of three hundred feet, 
 appears in the hackgroimd of the view ; and within the edifice 
 repose the princes of the illustrious House of Orange. The Old 
 Church, a ponderous edifice, is also comprised within the picture. 
 It contains the tombs of two famous Dutch admirals : Peter Hein, 
 who captured Bahia in 1624, and in 1628 intercepted the Spanish 
 fleet, laden with the treasures of America ; and a still greater 
 sailor, Martin Van Tromp, idolized by the Dutch sailors, and 
 called by them their grandfather, who worthily contended with 
 Blake and the English for the empire of the seas, and was at 
 length killed in combating them, in the year 1653. 
 
 Just under the old gate, a trecschuyt or canal-boat is about 
 to take its departure. This is the old mode of travel, most 
 probably adopted by the Pilgrims ; and lazy as it is, it is still -the 
 best way to see what is characteristic in Holland. The barge is 
 drawn by a horse, at the rate of about five miles an hour ; and 
 as the canals invariably pass through the towns, there is a 
 constant succession of interesting objects. The rich meadows, 
 enamelled with flowers, covered with cattle — ^the endless wind- 
 mills — the country houses, each with its "lusthaus" or pleasure 
 pavilion, overhanging the water, its plantations of roses and 
 tulips — the quaint old streets, so exquisitely clean, bordered with 
 rows of spreading trees — the lofty towers and steeples — produce 
 together, as the traveller glides almost noiselessly through the 
 glassy water, a constant series of gay and pleasurable impres- 
 sions. But very different were the feelings of the Pilgrims, as 
 they looked their last upon these scenes ! and too fast to them 
 the progress of the slow-toiling barge, for it bore them to the 
 spot where they were to part with their companions ! and sad 
 the parting glance of that pleasant land, with its serene and 
 happy quietude, when they thought of the wild ocean, and the 
 savage solitudes for which they were about to exchange it ! 
 
 And thus they pursued their way to Delfthaven, or the haven 
 of the city of Delft, about fourteen miles from Leyden, on the 
 
 H 
 
106 . EMBARKATION, 
 
 river Maese, by which it communicates with the sea. It is now 
 a quiet, old-fashioned place, of but little commercial importance. 
 The " haven " consists of a long canal, bordered with trees, 
 running back from the river, which, as represented in the en- 
 graving, is lined by picturesque old houses, with pointed gables 
 arid arched doorways, many of them bearing the date of their 
 erection, about half a century before the departure of the Pilgrims. 
 Thus the objects before us are almost identical with those upon 
 which they gazed as they entered the place from Leyden. The 
 Maese appears in the distance beyond the bridge, and the small 
 Dutch vessel which happened to pass at the time is quite as large 
 as the " Speedwell," and probably not unlike her in build. 
 
 " When they came to the place," to pursue the narrative of 
 Bradford, " they found the ship and aU things ready ; and such 
 of their friends as could not come with them followed after them ; 
 and sundry also came from Amsterdam to see them shipped, and 
 to take leave of them. That night was spent with little sleep 
 by the most, but with friendly entertainment and Christian 
 discourse, and other real expressions of true Christian love. The 
 next day, the wind being fair, they went on board and their friends 
 with them, when truly doleful was the sight of the sad and 
 mournful parting." Bradford speaks of the sighs, and sobs, and 
 prayers, and of the tears that gushed from every eye; but 
 Winslow gives the deepest impression of their agony, when 
 saying, " they were not able to speak to one another, for the 
 abundance of sorrow to part." The Dutch who stood on the 
 quay as spectators could not refrain from tears, and long after- 
 ward preserved the memory of this pathetic scene. " But the 
 tide, which stays for no man, calling them away that were thus 
 loth to depart, their reverend pastor, falling down on his knees 
 and all they with them, commended them with most fervent 
 tears to the Lord and his blessing ; and then, with mutual em- 
 braces and many tears, they took their leave of one another — 
 which nroved to be their last leave to many of them." 
 
DEPAETURE OF THE "SPEEDWELL." 107 
 
 The " Speedwell" was Iby the side of the quay, the sails were 
 spread to a favourahle breeze, and the ship slipped out of the 
 canal into the open Maese. Those on board gave a parting 
 salute — a volley of small shot and three pieces of ordnance — to 
 their friends, who following them to the end of the quay, con- 
 tinued to wave their hands until the bark faded on the distant 
 horizon. They thence returned in heaviness to Leyden. An 
 old miU, on the point of land that juts out into the river, 
 marks the spot whence they must have watched the departiug 
 vessel. 
 
 The " Speedwell" continued her seaward course along the 
 green and level shores, until, passing the tail church of the Brill, 
 and the low sand-banks at the mouth of the Maese, she emerged 
 into the open sea, and the shores of Holland rapidly receded 
 from the straining eyes of those who went forth on a second 
 exile. 
 
 H 2 
 
CHAPTER in. 
 
 %\t $iUlmiv.i in ^mxia, 
 
 ARRIVAIi AT SOUTHAMPTON. — THE " MATI'LOTrEB." — ^TINAL AaSANGEMENTS OP 
 THE TWO SHIPS, AND DEPAMtntE. — ^DAMAGE TO THE " SPEEDWELL." — ^PHT 
 INTO DAB.TMOUTH. — ^A SECOND TIME INTO PLYMOUTH. — ^PINAl KETUBN OP 
 THE " SPEEDWELL." — VOYAGE OP THE " MAYFLOWEK." — ^AREIVAL AT CAPE 
 COD. — PIKST EXPLOBATION OP THE COUNTB.T.' — ^LANDING AT PLYMOUTH. — SET- 
 TLEMENT THBEE. — SUPPEMNGS OP THE PmST WINTER. — KETUEN OP THE 
 " MAYPLOWER." — VISIT OP MASSASOIT, AND NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE INDIANS. 
 — ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OP THE "PORIUNE." — SCARCITY.OP PROVISIONS. 
 — ILLNESS OP MASSASOIT. — DISCOVERY OP INDIAN PLOT — ITS SUMMARY SUP- 
 PRESSION BY STANDISH. — ^BRETHREN AT LEYDEN. — LETTER OP ROBINSON — 
 HIS DEATH. — NOTICES OP PILGRIM LOCALITIES IN AMERICA. — PLYMOUTH. — 
 LEYDEN-STREET. — BURIAL-HALL. — COLES-HILL. — LANDING-PLACB. — DUXBUEY 
 HILL. — STANDISH SPRING. — TOWN BROOK. — BILLINGTON SEA. — CAPE COD. — 
 PROVINCE-TOWN. — PILGRIM HALL — ITS CONTENTS. — PUETHEE NOTICES OP 
 BRADFORD AND CARVER. — SUPPEEIN6S AND HARDSHIPS OP THE PILGRIMS — 
 THEIR CHARACTER AND WORK — THEIR INSTITUTIONS. — PRESENT CONDITION 
 OP PLYMOUTH. — CONCLUSION. 
 
 \lHtVnU a fair breeze and flowing sail, the Pilgrims soon came 
 in sight of the white cliffs of England, and the reflection must 
 have heen hitter indeed, that they were to ohtain this momentary 
 glimpse of their native land, only to take leave of it for ever. 
 Driven forth from their homes hy persecution, and unahle to 
 maintain their ground in Holland, they were now to undertake 
 a long voyage across a stormy ocean, to seek in the American 
 forests a home for their old age, and a sepulchre to receive their 
 bones. 
 
AEKIVAL Of THE " MAYELO'ft'ER." 109 
 
 The " Mayflower," the larger ship, which, as hefore mentioned, 
 was hired to convey them across the Atlantic, had gone round 
 from London to Southampton to await their arrival, and to that 
 port the " Speedwell " was accordingly steered. After a short 
 and prosperous voyage, she ran up the beautiftd. estuary of the 
 Southampton Water — bordered with rich woods, among which 
 peeped forth, as they approached the town, the grey ruins of 
 Netley Abbey, and shortly after, they beheld the old walls and 
 towers of Southampton, and the " Mayflower " lying at anchor in 
 front of them. 
 
 Few vessels have obtained so great a distinction in the annals 
 of maritime adventure as the little " Mayflower." At the time 
 she was built the commerce of England, though steadily on the 
 increase, and greatly to be augmented during the following 
 reign, could bear no comparison with that of Holland. We 
 learn from a work drawn up by Sir Walter Ealeigh, and pre- 
 sented by him to James I., soon after his accession, (as quoted 
 in the Pictorial History of England,) that the ordinary trade 
 carried on by the Dutch with England, employed not fewer 
 than five or six hundred Dutch ships, but not a tenth of that 
 number of English. But besides, whenever there was in 
 England a dearth of wine, fish, or com, it was the custom of 
 the Dutch immediately to load fifty or a hundred vessels with 
 the particular commodity in request, and to despatch them to all 
 the ports of this kingdom, to reap the harvest of the high prices. 
 In a recent dearth of corn, Ealeigh affirms that the merchants of 
 Embden, Hamburgh, and Holland, had thus carried away in 
 a year and a half, from the ports of Southampton, Exeter, and 
 Bristol alone, nearly 200,000Z. ; and he thinks that, from the 
 whole of the kingdom, they could not have obtained less than 
 ten times that sum. In spite of Kaleigh's representations but 
 little improvement was efiected in this reign, but the foundation 
 of future greatness was laid, by the charter of several trading 
 companies; such as the East India Company, the Levant or 
 
110 
 
 FORM OF THE " MAYETX)WER." 
 
 Turkey Company, and others, among which were the London 
 Adventurers or South Virginia Company, and the Plymouth 
 Adventurers, with whom our Pilgrims had recently entered into 
 an arrangement. 
 
 The size of the vessels employed by these companies, with 
 few exceptions, was still hut small. At James's accession 
 there were not above four hundred vessels in England of four 
 hundred tons burthen. In their bmld, though very picturesque, 
 they were tublite and clumsy — the shape of the hull being very 
 broad-bottomed and capacious, while the lofty cabins, built up 
 fore and aft on deck, must have caused them to roU heavily in 
 bad weather. This style has now become obsolete in Europe, 
 but may still be seen in the Arab vessels in the Red Sea and the 
 Levant. After looking at various examples, we have found 
 none more probably resembling the " Mayflower" than one copied 
 from the maps of Abraham Ortelius, the famous geographer, and 
 
 engraved in the " Art Journal," to illustrate an interesting paper 
 by Mr. F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A. 
 
 A second cut exhibits a somewhat similar ship, which con- 
 
SOUTHiMPTON. 
 
 Ill 
 
 veyed the Duke of Anjou to Antwerp, on the occasion of his visit 
 to that cit7 in 1582, 
 
 Southampton is one of the most ancient towns in Great Britain, 
 and to few pertain more interesting associations. The Bomans 
 had estahlished in the immediate neighhourhood a station called 
 Olausentum, of which some traces are still visible. The first 
 authentic records of the Saxons speak of " Old Hampton " as 
 a long-estahlished place, but perceiving the superior advantages 
 of the present site, they are supposed to have founded the existing 
 town. In those days the Christian religion seems to have taken 
 root, and monasteries appear to have been founded in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The place suffered fearfully from the irruptions of the 
 Danes ; when their sway was established, Southampton became 
 the frequent residence of Canute the Great ; and on a point of 
 land now covered by the new docks, the well-known traditional 
 reproof to his courtiers is said to have been delivered. Here 
 occurred the exploits of the celebrated " Sir Bevis of Hampton," 
 
112 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON. 
 
 a powerful Saxon lord, who opposed the Normans, and became 
 the hero of so many metrical romances. Here Henry H. 
 landed from France, on his way to perform penance at the shrine 
 of the murdered Becket. During the wars with France the town 
 was the scene of many stirring events. Whilst Edward III. 
 was contending for the succession of the crown of France with 
 Philip de Valois, 1338, fifty French galleys attacked the town, 
 wliich was sacked and burnt. When Edward HI. raised a fleet 
 for the invasion of France, Southampton contributed twenty-one 
 ships and five hundred and seventy-sis sailors, and was appointed 
 
 the rendezvous for the western portion of the fleet ; and hence 
 sailed the troops who won the battle of Crecy. Both Richard U. 
 and Henry made the fortifications their especial care ; and in the 
 reign of the gallant Henry V. sailed hence the second army, 
 which gained the victory of Agincourt. Henry YIH. is said to 
 have visited the town with Anne Boleyn ; and here the emperor 
 Charles V. embarked, after his visit to Henry's court, in 1522, 
 being taken on board the fleet of the Earl of Surrey, Lord High 
 Admiral, who had just made two successful attacks on the French 
 coast. In July, 1554, Philip of Spain arrived here with his 
 fleet, and proceeded to Winchester, where he was married to 
 

 I ,:' /■ 
 
 I J 1 i< 
 
 z 
 o 
 
 to o 
 — £" 
 > -I 
 
 
 to 
 
IBE " MAYKLOWER." 113 
 
 Queen Mary. Here ElizaVetli resorted for a while ; and 
 Charles I., while the plague was raging in London, came here 
 to confer with the Dutch ambassadors. In short, a large pro- 
 portion of our English monarchs seem to have heen drawn 
 hither, either hy war or public business, or the deUghts of the 
 ■chase in the neighbouring New Forest. 
 
 At the present day, Southampton is a gay, thriving town, 
 about half divided between the pursuits of pleasure and business. 
 It is the head-quarters of the Eoyal Yacht Club, and the station 
 for the West India and other mail-steamers. It has far out- 
 grown its original boundaries, but a large portion of its walls 
 and gates are yet remaining, and a ramble round them will 
 carry one back to the wars of the middle ages, and the time 
 when the quaint-looking, high-sterned little " Mayflower" took in 
 her cargo for the shores of America, One of the old towers bears 
 the name of Edward the Black Prince. Here is the venerable old 
 chapel called " Godde's House," wherein were interred the con- 
 spirators against Henry V., whose parting scene is immortalized 
 by Shakspeare, and which was appointed by Queen Elizabeth 
 as a place of worship for the fugitive Protestants expelled from 
 the Netherlands. On the bank above the river, at a spot called 
 " The Platform," is a curious old cannon, presented to the town 
 by Henry Vlil. Standing a little in advance of the old walls, 
 it overiooks the broad, beautiful river, at the very spot where 
 the "Mayflower" and "Speedwell," most probably, took in their 
 passengers; and, save the erection of a steamboat pier, the features 
 of the scene are but very little changed during the two centuries 
 that have since elapsed. 
 
 Small as she was, the little ship which carried the Pilgrims 
 and their fortunes was strong and staunch, and did good service 
 in the cause of New England colonization. Mr. Hunter observes, 
 that from Mr. Sherley's letter to Governor Bradford (Prince, 
 p. 187), it appears that she was still employed in crossing 
 between the two countries in 1629. A company of Mr. Eobin- 
 
114 AKEANGEMENTS FOE THE VOYAGE. 
 
 son's charch, who had remained in Holland to that year, were 
 about to pass in it to America ; and in the same author (p. 210) 
 we find that the vessel arrived in the harbour of Charlestown 
 on July 1, 1630, bearing on this occasion a portion of Win- 
 throp's company of emigrants, who, incited by the success of 
 the Plymouth pilgrims, laid the foundations of the State of 
 Massachusetts. , It would appear that there were several vessels 
 bearing the same name, derived, most probably, from a familiar 
 and delightM object, the fragrant blossom of the hawthorn, with 
 which the hedges are covered in England in the " meny month 
 of May." The same pretty name, it will appear, is given to the 
 first flower which heralds the American spring. 
 
 On landing here the exiles from Holland found their brethren 
 from London awaiting them, and after mutual congratulations, 
 set to work to lay in the necessary stores, and make other prepa- 
 rations for their long and perilous voyage. While thus engaged, 
 they received a further proof of the afiectionate solicitude of 
 Robinson, in a letter he had despatched after them from Leyden. 
 " Loving Christian friends," thus he commences, " I do heartily 
 and in the Lord salute you, as being those with whom I am 
 present in my best affections, and most earnest longings after 
 you, though I be constrained for a while to be bodily absent from 
 you. I say constrained, God knowing how vdllingly and much 
 rather than otherwise I would have borne my part with you in 
 this first brunt, were I not by strong necessity held back for the 
 present. Make account of me, in the meanwhile, as of a man 
 divided in myself with great pain, and as (natural bonds set 
 aside) having my better part with you." He then, in a strain 
 of great tenderness and beauty, as foreseeing those evils most 
 incident to such an enterprise, urges on them the necessity of 
 mutual charity and consideration for each other's faults, warning 
 them that " their intended course of civil community would 
 minister continual occasion of offence, and be as fdel for that 
 fire, except they diligently quench it with brotherly forbearance." 
 
if) o 
 
 s $ 
 
DAMAGE TO THE "SPEEDWELL." 115 
 
 Atove all, he entreats them, " with their common employments 
 to join common affections, truly hent upon the general good," 
 and to avoid all private and selfish ends. And, finally, " as men 
 are careful not to have a new house shaken with any violence 
 before it he well settled, and the parts firmly knit," he heseeches 
 them to he careful " that the house of God be not shaken with 
 unnecessary novelties or other oppositions at the first settling 
 thereof." As in apostolic days the Epistles of Paul were promul- 
 gated for the edification of the churches to which they were 
 addressed, so was this wise and affectionate letter of the pastor 
 of Leyden read aloud to the assembled exiles, and the counsels 
 which it conveyed sunk deeply into their hearts. 
 
 The emigrants were then regvdarly organized for the voyage, 
 being first distributed for either ship, and an overseer and 
 assistants being appointed to serve out provisions and attend to 
 those under their charge. The larger number of course were put 
 on board the " Mayflower." On the 5th of August they finally 
 parted with their Southampton Mends, and sailing down the 
 river, and past the Isle of Wight and its picturesque rocks, 
 the Needles, were speedily in the English Channel. But hardly 
 had they got into the open sea when their disasters began. The 
 master of the " Speedwell," who had been hired to remain 
 a year abroad with the vessel, moved either by cowardice or 
 dislike to the enterprise, pretended that his ship was so leaky 
 that he durst not proceed further in her. As the " Mayflower " 
 could not sail without her consort, both vessels went into the 
 romantic harbour of Dartmouth, where a week was consumed in 
 the repair of the " Speedwell," until that vessel was pronounced 
 quite sound by the carpenters. Accordingly they again set sail, 
 but ere they reached Plymouth the captain of the " Speedwell " 
 declared that he was ready to founder, and going into that port, 
 a fresh examination was made. Although no special cause 
 could be discovered for these complaints, it was at length decided 
 that the " Speedwell " should be sent back to London as unsea- 
 
116 PLTMOXITH. 
 
 worthy, with such of her passengers as, being discouraged by 
 their repeated hindrances, lost heart to persevere in their design, 
 the remainder being transferred to the larger ship. A hundred 
 passengers — many of them aged and infirm, children, women in 
 an advanced state of pregnancy — were thus cooped up in a vessel 
 of a hundred and eighty tons burthen. By this unworthy 
 stratagem not only were naany valuable hands lost to the com- 
 pany, and great inconvenience occasioned to the rest, but such 
 serious delay had taken place, that it was the beginning of Sep- 
 tember before the " Mayflower," with its crowd of suffering 
 passengers, could continue the voyage thus inauspiciously com- 
 menced. 
 
 A passing notice of Plymouth at that early period may not 
 perhaps be here inappropriate. Though the last place, except 
 Pembroke, at which a royal dockyard was established, it was 
 from an- early period the frequent rendezvous of the naval 
 armaments of the country. In 1355 Edward the Black Prince, 
 after having been detained forty days at " Sutton," by contrary 
 winds, sailed from this port for France; and on his return, in 
 1357, after the battle of Poictiers, he landed there with his royal 
 prisoners, the king of France, and the Dauphin his son. In 1470 
 the Earl of Warwick, called the King-maker, with the Earls of 
 Pembroke and Oxford, landed at Plymouth in their expedition — 
 which was attended with temporary success — to restore Henry VI. ; 
 and at Plymouth were fitted out the vessels with which the Earl 
 of Cumberland, Sir Francis Drake, Gilbert, Hawkins, Carlisle, 
 G-renville, and Cavendish proceeded on their voyages of discovery. 
 When the Spanish armada passed the Sound, on the 20th July, 
 1588, a part of the English fleet, under the command of Lord 
 Charles Howard and Sir Francis Drake, were at anchor near 
 Plymouth ; and it is said that Sir Francis was playing at bowls 
 on the Hoe when he received intelligence of the enemy being in 
 sight. Some of the Spanish ships entered a short distance 
 within the Sound; and their admiral, the Duke of Medina 
 
DEPAUTUEE OF THE " MAYFLOWER." 117 
 
 Sidonia, is said to have been so much pleased with the situation 
 of Mount Edgecumhe, that he determined to make it his resi- 
 dence, when the forces under his command should have conquered 
 England. As soon as the armada had passed, the English fleet 
 proceeded to sea, and on the following day overtook the enemy, 
 when Lord Howard encountered the Spanish vice-admiral. A 
 running-fight was kept up until the 24th, when the Plymouth 
 squadron heing joined by another division off the Isle of Wight, 
 the engagement became more general. It was continued at in- 
 tervals till the 28th July, when the English assailed the enemy 
 with fire-ships, as they lay at anchor off Calais, and on the two 
 following days succeeded in totally dispersing the grand armada, 
 which had been blessed and pronounced invincible by the pope. 
 Plymouth on this occasion supplied seven ships and one fly-boat 
 to the English fleet ; a greater number than was sent by any other 
 port, except London. In 1596, Plymouth was the rendezvous 
 for the expedition against Cadiz, or Gales, as the town was then 
 called, under the Earl of Essex and the Earl of Nottingham. 
 The English having succeeded in taking Cadiz, the Earl of 
 Essex knighted so many persons of " weake and small meanes," 
 that a " Knight of Cales " became a proverbial expression for a 
 poor gentleman. 
 
 Such was Plymouth when the "Mayflower" and "Speedwell" 
 put in there. We find that our Pilgrims were "kindly entertained 
 and courteously used by divers friends there dwelling," which 
 circumstance, as well as this being the last place they visited in 
 England, afterwards induced them to bestow the name of New 
 Plymouth upon their settlement on the American shores. 
 
 At length, on Wednesday, the 6th of September, the wind 
 coming east-north-east, the "Mayflower" proceeded on her 
 solitary way. Impelled by "a fine small gale," the rocks of Corn- 
 wall faded from the sight of the Pilgrims, and they took their last 
 look at the dear shores of England, which they were destined 
 never to see again. The great solitude of the western ocean now 
 
118 VOYAGE OP THE " MATPLOWEU." 
 
 lay outstretched before them. At first they had fair winds, and 
 sailed prosperously onward, but it was not long before the equi- 
 noctial gales set in, and the tremendous swell of the Atlantic 
 threatened to engulf the little bark, a speck in the immensity of 
 the waters. Those who have witnessed a " Nor'-wester " during 
 the equinox, even in one of the splendid steamers of modem 
 times, may form some idea of the terrors of such a scene to those 
 on board a vessel like the " Mayflower." Still the little bark 
 struggled gallantly onward with her precious freight, battling 
 continually with contrary gales and fierce storms. Sorely 
 shattered, her upper works strained and leaky, and one of the 
 main beams amidships bent and cracked, anxious consultations 
 were held between the seamen and passengers, whether it would 
 not be better to put back ; and but for the fortunate discovery of 
 a large iron screw brought by one of the Pilgrims from Holland, 
 which served to rivet the defective beam, it is very probable the 
 whole enterprise might have been defeated. The ship still held 
 on her course, struggling with head-winds and tempestuous seas, 
 and often obliged to lie to for many days together. The misery 
 of those on board during this protracted encounter with the 
 elements was greatly aggravated by the discomfort of the 
 vessel — so crowded, that even while the ship was drenched by 
 continual seas, the shallop on deck was used as a sleeping place 
 for some of the passengers. 
 
 Although only one death occurred during the voyage, that of 
 William Batten, a youth and servant of Dr. Samuel Fuller, 
 (counterbalanced by the single birth of a son to Stephen Hopkins, 
 who bestowed on the child the appropriate name of " Oceanus,") 
 yet there can be little doubt such privation and suffering under- 
 mined the constitutions of the weaker members, and paved the 
 way for that terrible mortality which soon afterwards swept so 
 many into an early grave. 
 
 Sixty-four days had thus been passed — ^long, dreary, doleful 
 days and nights — ^when, early in the morning of the 9th of 
 
MtBIVAL AT CAPE COD HABBOUB. 119 
 
 November, the Pilgrims obtained their first view of the coast 
 of America, a sight which caused them to " rejoice together, 
 and praise Grod that had given them once again to see the land." 
 To the tempest-tost passenger — suffering from confinement and 
 closeness — the sight of any shore, however wild, and the aromatic 
 smell that blows off from the land, are inexpressibly sweet and 
 refreshing. 
 
 " Lovely seems any object that shall sweep 
 Away the vast — salt — dread— eternal deep !" 
 
 And thus we find that the low sand hiUs of Cape Cod, covered 
 with scrubby woods that descended to the margin of the sea, 
 seemed, at the first glance, a perfect paradise of verdure to the 
 eyes of these poor sea-beat wanderers. 
 
 It had been the original design of the exiles, as before observed, 
 to settle somewhere by themselves, within the limits of the 
 Virginia Company's patent ; and thus, after a consultation with 
 the captain, the vessel was steered towards the mouth of the 
 river Hudson, which they imagined to be only thirty or forty 
 miles to the southward. But they had not sailed far in this 
 direction before they were entangled amidst the dangerous shoals 
 and breakers which extend to the southward of the Cape ; a 
 strong contrary wind springing up at the same time added to 
 the peril of their position, and thus the captain resolved to put 
 about and bear up for Cape Cod Harbour, where they arrived 
 safely in the course of the next day. 
 
 The harbour which sheltered the shattered " Mayflower " was 
 already known to early American navigators. It was first dis- 
 covered on the 15th of May, 1602, by Bartholomew Gosnold, 
 who gave it that name, from the abundance of cod he found 
 there. Seven years later, on the 3d of August, 1609, Henry- 
 Hudson anchored at the north end of the headland, and his men 
 went on shore, and brought off wild grapes and roses. He gave 
 it the name of New Holland, by which it is represented in the 
 Dutch maps of that day, the exfremity being called White-point, 
 
120 BOND OF AGREEMENT: 
 
 probably, as Mr. Sumner suggests, from the glaring sand hills 
 which, low as they are, are visible in clear weather at an immense 
 distance. The famous Captain John Smith, of Virginia renown, 
 also surveyed the coast in 1614, and correctly describes the 
 harbour as " sickle-shaped," like that of Messina in Sicily, to 
 which indeed the Greeks gave the very same appellation. 
 
 On November the 11th, before they came to the harbour, 
 Bradford remarks that, "observing some not weU affected to unity 
 and concord, but who gave some appearance of faction, it was 
 thought good there should be an association and agreement that 
 we should combine together in one body, and to submit to such 
 government and governors, as we should by common consent 
 agree to make and choose; and set our hands to this that follows, 
 word for word : — 
 
 " ' In the name of God, Amen. We, who^e names are under- 
 written, the loyal subjects of our dread sovereign lord. King 
 James, by the grace of G(5d, of Great Britain, France, and 
 Ireland, King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken, for 
 the glory of God, and advancement of the Christian faith, 
 and honour of our kiug and country, a voyage to plant the 
 first colony in the northern parts of Virginia, do, by these 
 presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and 
 one of another, covenant and combine ourselves together into 
 a civil body politic, for our better ordering and preservation, 
 and furtherance of the ends aforesaid; and by virtue hereof 
 to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, ordi- 
 nances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as 
 shall be thought most meet and convenient for the general good 
 of the colony, unto which we promise all due submission and 
 obedience. In witness whereof, we have hereunder subscribed 
 our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of November, in the year of 
 the reign of our sovereign lord. King James, of England, France, 
 and Ireland the eighteenth, and of Scotland the fifty-fourth. 
 Anno Domini, 1620. 
 
ITS NATURE AND CONSEQUENCES. 
 
 121 
 
 Mr. John Carver 
 
 8 
 
 Mr. Samuel Ealler 
 
 2 
 
 William Bradford 
 
 3 
 
 Mr. Christopher Martin 
 
 4. 
 
 Mr. Edward Winslow 
 
 S 
 
 Mr. WiUiam Mullins 
 
 5 
 
 Mr. William Brewster 
 
 6 
 
 Mr. William White 
 
 5 
 
 Mr, Isaac Allerton 
 
 6 
 
 Mr. Richard Warren 
 
 
 Captain Miles Standish 
 
 2 
 
 John Goodman 
 
 
 John Howland 
 
 
 Degory Priest 
 
 
 Mr. Stephen Hopkins 
 
 8 
 
 Thomas Williams 
 
 
 Edward Tilly 
 
 4- 
 
 Gilbert Winslow 
 
 
 John Tilly 
 
 3 
 
 Edmund Margeston 
 
 
 Erancis Cook 
 
 2 
 
 Peter Brown 
 
 
 Thomas Sogers 
 
 2 
 
 Richard Britterige 
 
 
 Thomas TiAer 
 
 3 
 
 George Soule 
 
 
 John B-idgdale 
 
 2 
 
 Richard Clarke 
 
 
 Edward Enller 
 
 3 
 
 Richard Gardiner 
 
 
 John Turner 
 
 3 
 
 John Allerton 
 
 
 Erancis Eaton 
 
 3 
 
 Thomas English 
 
 
 James GhHton 
 
 3 
 
 Edward Dotey 
 
 
 John Crackston 
 
 2 
 
 Edward Leister 
 
 
 John Billington 
 Moses Eletcher 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 101" 
 
 John Alden 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 This' voluntary agreement has teen denominated by American 
 writers, " the tirth of poptdar constitutional liberty," an abstract 
 profession of democratic government, based upon equal laws, 
 upon which, the whole framework of American political insti- 
 tutions is founded. This seems to be a mistake, if it refers to 
 the intentions of the Pilgrims. Nothing is more evident than 
 that, in drawing up this document, they were merely defining 
 what, in their position, it was absolutely necessary to do — their 
 right to frame the best laws for their own internal government, 
 always regarding themselves as subject both to the king and par- 
 liament of England. Practically, however, the giving to every 
 man the right of voting, — ^the choosing of their own officers by the 
 entire body, and the discussing their affair in town meetings — 
 did really lay the foundation of a totally new system of govern- 
 ment, upon the basis of a democratic equality and practical 
 independence, over which the nominal sway of a distant power 
 
 I 
 
122 CONDITION OF THE I'lLGfilMS. 
 
 could never exert any efficient or permanent control. Most 
 probably the Pilgrims, in this instance as in others, little 
 foresaw or contemplated the momentous results of an arrange- 
 ment dictated at the time by mere necessity. Under their new 
 agreement, John Carver was unanimously chosen governor for 
 the ensuing year. 
 ' Although, in this secure anchorage, the poor exiles felt that the 
 perils of the seas were at an end, yet the prospect before them 
 was dreary and disheartening in the extreme. The wintry wind 
 howled through the cordage of the battered ship, and whirled 
 the last leaves of the red autumnal foliage along the desolate 
 shore. Its icy blasts thrilled through the shivering frames of 
 people enfeebled by sickness and confinement. They had origi- 
 nally intended to arrive on the coast much earlier; but the 
 delays occasioned by the " Speedwell " had, by exposing them to 
 the full brunt of the stormy season, greatly retarded the passage, 
 and now winter was approaching, with neither shelter nor habi- 
 tation to protect them from its inclemency. The dreary appearance 
 of the country, in' a state of primeval wildness, and without any 
 trace of human life, must have been appalling to their spirits. 
 The wide ocean separated them from their friends, and it must 
 be long indeed before they could receive any assistance. And 
 where were they to commence their settlement ? The captain — 
 whom many have suspected, though apparently without cause, of 
 having treacherously taken bribes from the Dutch not to convey 
 them to the Hudson River, — urged them to an immediate decision, 
 reminding them that every day's delay consumed their slender 
 stock of provisions; and even threatening, if they hesitated 
 much longer, to put them and their goods ashore and return 
 home. 
 
 As sooU' as they had cast anchor, the shallop was fitted out to 
 explore the coasts for a suitable spot to settle in, and parties 
 went on shore to fetch wood and water — being however, from the 
 shallowness of the water, forced to wade through the icy brine 
 

 u 
 
 S 3 
 
 ° -I 
 
 > :• 
 
 < . 
 
FmST EXPLORATION OF THE COTJNTUT. 
 
 123 
 
 for a considerable distance. Fifteen men well armed set out to 
 survey the immediate neighbourhood, but returned without dis- 
 covering any trace of inhabitants. The repairs of the shallop 
 seemed Kkely to take up so much time, that a party under the 
 leadership of Captain Myles Standish, volunteered to undertake 
 an exploration on foot, justly esteemed a service of some peril, 
 and " rather permitted than approved." At length, on the 15th 
 of November, the sixteen men, armed with musket, sword, and 
 corselet, were put ashore. They advanced single file along the 
 coast, and descrying certain- Indians, endeavoured but in vain to 
 track them till overtaken by night, when kindling a fire and 
 appointing sentinels, they lay down and took their first night's 
 sleep among the American forests. 
 
 Next day as soon as they could see, they continued to follow the 
 traces of the Indians, rounding the head of what is now called East 
 Harbour Creek, but all in vain, though they got entangled amidst 
 thickets which tore " their very armour in pieces " in the chase. 
 
 The annexed cut gives a fair idea of the armour of this 
 period; but it is most probable our Pilgrims had only a corselet 
 
 l2 
 
124 EETUEN TO THE SHIP. 
 
 and head-piece, though Standish himself had a coat of mail. 
 All of them seemed to have carried muskets or fowling-pieces. 
 Suffering severely from want of water, they struck into a deep 
 valley full of deer tracks, which guided them to some springs, 
 where, says the narrator, " we sat us down and drank our first 
 New England water, with as much delight as we ever drank 
 drink in all our lives." 
 
 Continuing their toilsome progress, the pioneers came upon 
 further traces of the Indians : the site of a house — an old ship's 
 kettle brought from Europe — and a large basket full of Indian 
 corn, which they carried away, intending to reimburse the 
 owners — together with certain graves, which they forbore to 
 examine, because " they thought it would be odious to them to 
 ransack their sepulchres." In the course of their wanderings, 
 they came to a tree where " a young sprit was bowed down over 
 a bow, and some acorns strewed beneath it ; " — a very pretty 
 device, intended as they supposed to catch deer; and of the 
 efficiency of which William Bradford furnished an illustration 
 by accidentally treading on it, " when it gave a sudden jerk up, 
 and he was immediately caught by the leg," no doubt to the 
 great amusement of his comrades. Marching wearily through 
 the sandy woods, or wading up to their knees in water, they at 
 length drew nigh the ship, and on firing a signal, were conveyed 
 " both weary and welcome " on board. 
 
 Nothing of note was discovered on this first exploration, and 
 as the shallop was now ready, four and twenty of the Pilgrims, 
 accompanied by "Master Jones" and some of his sailors, 
 amounting in all to five and thirty men, set forth on the 27th of 
 November more fully to examine the coast, and fix upon a 
 settlement. 
 
 Dreary, indeed, was the weather when this second band set 
 out on their cruise. The wind was contrary, and so boisterous, 
 that the boat could not keep the sea, but had to be laid up for 
 the night. The men were compelled to wade ashore above their 
 
SECOND EXPLOEATION. 325 
 
 knees in water, and after marching several miles furtlier, to 
 bivouac for the night in the open air, exposed to a fall of snow 
 and the keen frost, so that several who perished, as the chronicle 
 informs us, soon after, " here took the original of their death." 
 
 Next morning the shallop overtook them, and, getting on 
 board, they sailed with a fair wind to the mouth of Pamet River, 
 and landing, spent the whole day in exploring its desolate shores, 
 covered with several inches of snow. They continued to exa- 
 mine this neighbourhood next day, and, happily, found a fresh 
 supply of com, at the same spot where they had previously met 
 with it. Here they sent back several who were too sick to 
 proceed, and continued on their dreary way. Traces, of the 
 Indians were stiU numerous : they found paths beaten by their 
 feet, lighted upon a grave containing the bones of one of their 
 chiefs, and soon after came to several of their huts, but none of 
 the inhabitants could they discover. Many of them, exhausted 
 with this toilsome expedition, were in favour of settling at 
 Pamet River, but this design was overruled. Their pilot, named 
 Robert Coppin, who had been on these coasts before, in a 
 whaling vessel, bethought him of a navigable river and good 
 harbour on the other side of the bay, which they first resolved to 
 examine. Ten of the staunchest men volunteered to go on this 
 errand, including Standish, Carver, Bradford, and Winslow; 
 and on the 6th of December they set sail. Their sufferings now 
 became intense, the cold being so excessive that two of their 
 number were taken ill, while the salt spray of the sea froze upon 
 their clothes as it fell, so that they were speedily cased all over 
 as in coats of iron. 
 
 They sailed along as far as a spot they called Grampus Har- 
 bour, now WeMeet, and again went ashore ; but though they 
 saw evidences of Indian occupation, still they could fall in with 
 none of the savages. That night they heard "a great and 
 hideous cry ; " the sentinels cried out, " Arm, arm ! " and they 
 fired off a couple of muskets ; but as none replied, the noise 
 
126 ATTACKED BY INDIANS. 
 
 was supposed to be nothing more than the shrieks of wolves 
 or foxes. 
 
 But the morrow told another tale, for in the dull, dark twilight, 
 after they had, as usual, commenced the day with prayer, and 
 were preparing to breakfast, the same fearful yeU again burst 
 upon their ear ; and hardly had one rushed in with the cry of 
 " Indians, Indians ! " than the arrows came flying thick into the 
 midst of them. Standish, having a piece ready, fired it off; the 
 others rushed to arms, and returned the flight of arrows with a 
 discharge of musketry. Nevertheless the Indian Sachem bravely 
 stood three shots, the last of which appears to have taken effect, 
 for he uttered a yell of agony — then the whole retreated into the 
 woods, followed for some distance by the victors, who, after giving 
 several hearty English cheers and firing a volley, at length 
 betook themselves to their shallop. The scene of this skirmish 
 they denominated " The First Encounter." 
 
 Again they sailed along the desolate coast, but saw neither 
 creek nor harbour. The sea proved more inhospitable than the 
 land. A heavy snow-storm came on, with torrents of rain ; and 
 amidst its blinding fury, which obscured aU prospect, the gale 
 increased — the sea got up — the rudder snapped with a sudden 
 shock — and a sorry shift at steering was made with a couple of 
 oars. The heavy waves threatened every moment to swamp the 
 unmanageable shallop, and the fading light of a wintry day was 
 about to abandon them on a perilous shore. 
 
 Coppin, the pilot, suddenly called out to them to be of good 
 cheer, for he beheld the harbour. All sail was strained to get 
 in, when snap went the mast in three places, and at the critical 
 moment Coppin exclaimed, " The Lord be merciful ! my eyes 
 never saw this place before." They were rushing headlong into 
 the midst of breakers, when the steersman's presence of mind 
 saved them from impending destruction. " About with her, or 
 we are cast away !" he cried to the rowers. The shallop's course 
 was instantly altered, and she was carried into the harbour wiA 
 
CLARKE'S ISLAND. 127 
 
 a flood tide, wtere, bringing up under the lee of a small rise of 
 land, they rode secure from danger. 
 
 Night soon closed over the exhausted wanderers, — ^wet, weary, 
 hungry, and frost-bitten, — ^yet, fearing lest they should be sur- 
 prised by savages, as in the morning, they were afraid to leave 
 the boat. " But some, almost perishing with cold, could bear it 
 no longer, and, venturing ashore, with great difficulty kindled a 
 fire, and comforted themselves with its kindly warmth." As the 
 night advanced the wind shifted, a frost set in, with drizzling 
 rain, and the rest of the benumbed party were glad to get ashore 
 and join their companions around the fire, and thaw their half- 
 frozen joints before its crackling logs. 
 
 On the morrow, perambulating the place, they found it to be 
 a small, uninhabited island. Here, then, they resolved to remain, 
 to recruit their wearied frames, dry their baggage, and refix their 
 muskets : for the next day was the Sabbath, and it is charac- 
 teristic of their deeply religious spirit, that, pressed as they were 
 to rejoin their anxious companions, they should have halted to 
 observe it with their customary solemnity. 
 
 Next morning, the memorable 12th of December, they left their 
 place of shelter, which has received the name of Clarke's Island, 
 after the mate of the " Mayflower," who is said to have been the 
 first to land upon it. Sounding the harbour, and finding it 
 eligible for shipping, they determined to explore its shores. They 
 stepped ashore, as tradition declares, upon a huge boulder of 
 granite projecting into the waves — little dreaming that it would 
 hereafter become the object of as much veneration to their innu- 
 merable descendants, as the Kaaba of Mecca to the feet of the 
 pious Moslem. The soil appeared very favourable for a settle- 
 ment, " there being divers corn-fields and little running brooks." 
 Here, then, their weary researches came to a close, and they joy- 
 fully weighed anchor to carry the good news to their brethren. 
 During their absence, on December 4th, " Mistress White was 
 brought to bed of a son, which was called Peregrine," the first 
 
128 
 
 LANDING AT PLYMOUTH, 
 
 birth in the colony. Several deaths had also taken place ; and 
 Bradford, on returning from his toilsome voyagCj had the anguish 
 to find that his wife Dorothy had been accidentally drowned. 
 
 On the 15th of December the " Mayflower" set sail from Cape 
 Cod Harbour, and the next day came to an anchorage in Ply- 
 mouth Bay. The journal of the PUgrims now continues to 
 trace the history of each day, with a minuteness of detail like 
 that of Robinson Crusoe himself. On the 18th, a party went on 
 shore to examine the land, and, weary with marching, " returned 
 aboard without coming to any conclusion." Next day, the search 
 was renewed — some going on land, others in the shallop. They 
 ascended a river, which received the name of Jones in compli- 
 ment to their captain, where they first thought of settling, but 
 various objections suggested themselves ; others thought of the 
 island, but still they arrived at no decision. As time was fast 
 slipping away, and their provisions running short, they resolved 
 next day to settle definitively upon one of the places they had 
 examined. 
 
 On the next morning accordingly, being the 20th of December, 
 " having called on God for direction," they went on shore again, 
 and at last, by a majority of voices, resolved to settle on the spot 
 now covered by the town of Plymouth. It was on a ridge of 
 high ground, where land had been cleared and planted with 
 com some three or four years before ; the place abounded in 
 " delicate springs " of water, and under the hiU-side ran " a very 
 sweet brook," abounding in fish, and the mouth of which afibrded 
 a snug shelter to their boats and shallops. Upon a bold isolated 
 eminence, commanding an extensive view to sea, they resolved to 
 erect a fort. On this promising spot a rude shelter was erected 
 for the party, and it was resolved that the main body should 
 come on shore next morning, and begin to erect houses. 
 
 The place of their settlement had been noticed by Captain 
 John Smith, in his map of New England published in 1616, and 
 characterised as " an excellent good harbour." The Indian name 
 
AND SETTLEMENT THEEE. 129 
 
 was Accomack. Smith, becaiise perhaps of a certain general 
 resemblance to that harbour, called it Plymouth ; and this title 
 was the more readily confirmed by the Pilgrims, on account of the 
 kindness which they received from many at this port — the last 
 in England at which they had touched on their voyage. 
 
 On the 21st came a violent tempest of wind and rain, which 
 prevented them from carrying out their intentions. The shallop 
 with great diiEculty carried provisions to the hungry and shiver- 
 ing party on shore, but could not return on account of the fury of 
 the gale. The weather was so bad that they were forced to ride 
 with three anchors ahead. All the next day the communication 
 with the land was cut off. In the midst of this storm, Goodwife 
 Alderton was delivered of a dead-born child. 
 
 On the 23d, as many as could got on shore, and immediately 
 fell to work, cutting timber for their new habitations. They laid 
 out the line of their street, parcelled it off in lots, and began to 
 erect their fortification upon the hill. They built a " common 
 house," about twenty feet square, to shelter themselves and their 
 goods until private habitations could be erected. Though labouring 
 away most strenuously, yet, exposed to continual interruption 
 from the stormy weather, their progress was necessarily but slow 
 and toilsome. There were, besides, alarms of the Indians — fires 
 were seen in the skirt of the woods ; and the doughty Myles 
 Standish, who was speedily chosen their captain-general, went 
 off with a few followers in quest of them, but ia vain. 
 
 Soon after, on the 12th of January, the little community was 
 thrown into distress by the disappearance of two of their number, 
 who had strayed away into the pathless woods. After long 
 wandering, they were overtaken by night, and in frost and snow 
 " were forced to make the earth their bed, and the elements their 
 covering." Moreover, mistaking the cry of wolves for the roaring 
 of lions, they were seized with the most terrible apprehensions. 
 Not knowing what to do, they resolved, like Kobinson Crusoe, 
 to cKmb into a tree, " though that would prove an intolerable 
 
130 PAIIWUIi INCIDENTS. 
 
 cold lodging." But, to use their own expression, " it pleased 
 God so to dispose that the wild heasts came not." So, after pass- 
 ing a bitter night at the foot of the tree, they resumed their weary- 
 way, till at noon, to their infinite joy, from a high hill they dis- 
 covered the islands in the hay ; and at night, half-perished with 
 cold and hunger, succeeded in rejoiniag their companions. 
 
 The " Mayflower," with the women and children imprisoned on 
 board, still rode out the storms of winter at her anchorage. On 
 the 4th of February, she was endangered by a tremendous gale — 
 her goods being taken out, and not having any ballast. On the 
 9th, those on board suddenly descried the flames issuing from the 
 " common house," at which they were greatly terrified, supposing 
 that the Indians had massacred their relatives, and set fire to their 
 habitation. This accident was caused by a spaxk which set fire 
 to the thatch, but happily occasioned little damage. Carver and 
 Bradford (the latter of whom had been seized with a violent rheu- 
 matic pain, in consequence of his exposure to the weather) were 
 at that time ill in bed, and had they not made a hasty retreat, 
 would have been blown up with powder — the " sick house," for 
 such, alas ! it might now be called, being as fall of beds as they 
 could lie one by another, and the muskets charged in case of 
 attack by the Indians. 
 
 And now fell out the bitterest part of the story. Those who 
 had fought with so many hardships to attain a shelter in the 
 wilderness, found that they had only come there to die. Their 
 consuming cares before leaving Holland — their long protracted 
 stormy voyage in a crowded ship — the unwholesome and even 
 putrid provisions — the cutting winter blasts of a severe climate to 
 which, thus weakened, they were exposed — the wading on shore 
 through the icy water — their hard labours in cutting wood and 
 preparing their dwellings, in the midst of frost and snow — all 
 this, with, worse than all, the slow corroding action of anxiety, 
 had undermined the constitution of the majority, and rendered 
 them an easy prey to the destroyer. One fell after another — 
 
WINTEK STJI'MUINGS. 131 
 
 each week and month increasing the mortality in a fearful ratio. 
 Many were carried off hy the scurvy; the tender frame of woman 
 sunk under protracted cares and privations, and even the most 
 robust were unable to bear up against such a complication of 
 hardships. How bitter, although softened by faith, must have 
 been the parting of those who had borne together the toils and 
 perils of the emigration ! How sad the scenes which these few 
 log-huts in the wilderness must have witnessed! Bradford, 
 Standish, AUerton, and Winslow, were all left widowers in the 
 course of a few weeks. Six died in December, eight in January, 
 seventeen in February, and thirteen in March — until of that little 
 band scarcely one half remained ; and had not the winter, severe 
 at all times, proved unusually mUd for that keen and trying 
 climate, not one, in aU probability, would have been left to tell 
 the tale ! 
 
 As one by one they sunk in death, they were borne by their 
 friends to the summit of a small cliff, immediately overhangiag 
 the rock upon which they had so recfently landed with spirits full 
 of hope, and there deposited side by side. Those who survived 
 were hardly able to carry the corpses of their relatives ; and, far 
 from raising tombs to the departed, the field of death, which had 
 received all that was dearest to them on earth, was planted with 
 a crop of corn, to conceal the extent of their losses from the 
 jealous Indians, who might have been tempted by their weakness 
 to crush the melancholy handful of survivors. 
 
 The constant fear of surprise by the savages had indeed kept 
 the colonists in a constant state of watchfulness during the whole 
 winter. On the 17th of February, Myles Standish was formally 
 chosen their captain-general, and certain military orders were 
 agreed upon. The master and several of the sailors came on 
 shore, the 21st, and carried with them one of the great pieces of 
 artillery called a minion, which, with another gim that lay on 
 the shore, was dragged by their united efforts, and mounted 
 upon the platform on Fort (now Burial) Hill. This was an 
 
132 MIUTABT AREANGEMENTS. 
 
 important piece of business, and its completion was regarded as 
 an occasion of rejoicing. The captain had brought with him 
 " a very fat goose," and those on shore had " a fat crane and a 
 mallard," and " a dried neat's tongue." This fare was, no doubt, 
 washed down with good English beer and strong waters ; and 
 thus, notwithstanding the gloom that hung over them, the day 
 passed cheerfully and socially away. 
 
 The terrible winter, which had struck down one half their 
 number, at last began to break up, and gleams of mild, soft 
 weather, intervened between the trying easterly winds. The 
 birds began to sing in the woods, and the flowers to peep forth 
 from the earth. With the approach of the fine season hope 
 sprang up in the breasts of the survivors, — they began to 
 sow seeds in their gardens, and to prepare for the cultivation of 
 the soil. 
 
 On the 16th of March, " a fair, warm day," while conferring 
 about their military arrangements, they were suddenly inter- 
 rupted by the approach of a soUtary Indian, who walked boldly 
 into the camp, and would even — so noble and fearless was his 
 carriage — have entered the " common, house," had they not pru- 
 dently prevented him at the threshold. This savage, named 
 Samoset, the first they had fallen in with, saluted them in 
 English, and bade them " Welcome ! " This smattering of 
 their tongu,e he had picked up by his intercourse with the fishing 
 captains who came to Monhegan, most of whose names he knew. 
 He was frank and communicative, and eagerly questioned by the 
 settlers. The mystery of such numerous traces of the occupation, 
 and so little of the actual presence of the Indians, was now for the 
 first time explained. About four years since a deadly pestilence 
 had desolated the neighbourhood, and left it free for the occupation 
 of the white man. The settlers might thus take possession of 
 the soil, without the risk of contest or interruption. The attack 
 upon Standish and the exploring party, called by them " the 
 first encounter," had been made by a body of the Nausites, a small 
 
VISIT OF MASSASOIT. 133 
 
 tribe, wto were exasperated against the wMte men by a cruel and 
 perfidious action committed by one Hunt, an English trading 
 captain, who having inveigled a body of the savages on board 
 his ship, carried them away and sold them into slavery. 
 
 The settlers laboured to counteract the evil impression of the 
 English character left by this wretched trafficker. They enter- 
 tained Samoset with the best they had, and the next day dis- 
 missed him with a few trifling presents. 
 
 The Indians now began to repair freely to the camp. On the 
 22d of March, Samoset brought with him another savage, named 
 Squanto, whose adventures were very remarkable. He was 
 among the number of those carried away by Hunt, who had 
 taken him to London, where he had lived in Cornhill, with a 
 wealthy merchant named Slanie, by whom he had, probably, 
 been sent back to America. Having picked up a little English, 
 he was forthwith made interpreter between the settlers and the 
 Indians. He signified that their great sagamore, Massasoit, was 
 at hand, with his brother, Quadequina, and a numerous com- 
 pany, desirous of an interview with the new comers ; and soon 
 after the whole company, emerging from the woods, appeared on 
 the bold eminence upon the other side of the brook. Squanto was 
 sent over to ascertain the wishes of the Sachem ; whereupon he 
 desired that some one should be deputed to hold a conference. 
 The prudent and dignified Winslow was selected to this office. 
 Having made Massasoit an offering, he addressed him in a speech 
 which Squanto interpreted as well as he was able, declaring that 
 King James saluted him with words of love and peace, and that 
 the governor was desirous of confirming a mutual treaty. Upon 
 this Massasoit, leaving Winslow in the custody of his brother, 
 descended, with his men, who left their bows and arrows behiad 
 them, to the brOok side, whither Standish and half-a-dozen 
 musketeers advanced to do him honour, and conducted him to 
 an unfurnished house, where a green rug and three or four 
 cushions served for a throne and seats of state. The governor 
 
134 NBGOTUTIONS WITH THE INDIANS. 
 
 next descended, with drum and trumpet — salutations were ex- 
 changed — and calling for some " strong drink," Carver pledged 
 his Indian visitor, which courtesy the latter reciprocated with so 
 potent a draught of the " fire water," as put him into a perspi- 
 ration during the remainder of the conference. Articles of treaty 
 were soon drawn up, and approved by the king, who, in spite of 
 the stimulant with which he had fortified himself, trembled with 
 fear all the while he sat by the governor. 
 
 The journalist gives us a very picturesque delineation of the 
 group. Massasoit himself " was a very lusty man, in his best 
 years, an able body, grave of countenance, and spare of speech ; 
 in his attire differing little or nothing from the rest of his 
 followers, only in a great chain of white bone-beads about his 
 neck, and at it, behind his neck, hangs a little bag of tobacco, 
 which he drank [i.e. smoked) and gave us to drink. His face was 
 painted with a sad red, like murrey, and oiled both head and 
 face, so that he looked greasily. All his followers, likewise, 
 were on their faces, in part or in whole, painted — some black, 
 some red, some yellow, and some white, some with crosses, and 
 other antic works. Some had skins on them, and some naked." 
 
 With the arrival of spring, it was now considered full time for 
 the return of the " Mayflower," which had remained an hundred 
 and ten days in Plymouth harbom-. It had been the master's 
 original intention to sail soon after he had landed his pas- 
 sengers ; but the mortality on shore had been so great that he 
 could not abandon the colonists in their forlorn condition ; and, 
 indeed, so many of his own crew had either died or become dis- 
 abled by sickness, that he could not venture to attempt a wintry 
 passage across the stormy Atlantic. At length he made ready 
 to sail ; and it is a remarkable proof of the earnest enthusiasm of 
 the Pilgrims, that although they had seen one lialf their number 
 perish, the rest resolved to abide at all hazards, and cany out 
 the work they had come hither to do. Their very sufferings had 
 endeared the place to them. The soil in which they had buried 
 
DBATH OF GOTJBRNOK CAfiVER. 135 
 
 SO many of tteir friends became precious — they conld hot aban- 
 don the graves of those who were dearest to them on earth, and 
 whom they hoped speedily to rejoin in heaven. Not one of them 
 embraced the opportunity of returning to England. The " May- 
 flower" had a short and prosperous passage home. Leaving 
 Plymouth on the 5th of April, 1621, she arrived at London on 
 the 6th of the month following. 
 
 Shortly after the departure of the "Mayflower" in the month 
 of April, Governor Carver, who was engaged, like the rest, in the 
 labours of the field, came home complaining greatly of his head, 
 owing probably to a coup de soleil, or to a faintness produced by 
 previous mental anxiety and bodily exhaustion. In a few hours 
 he became speechless and insensible, and died a few days after- 
 wards, to the great grief of his fellow-colonists. " His care and 
 pains were so great for the common good as therewith, it is 
 thought, he oppressed himself and shortened his days." His 
 wife followed him to the grave in the course of only a few weeks. 
 After a decent interval of mourning, WilHam Bradford, the 
 yeoman of Austerfield, whose courage and conduct had been 
 abimdantly proved in a long season of trial, was chosen as his 
 successor, and Mr. Isaac AUcrton as his assistant ; offices to 
 which they were re-elected for many successive years. 
 
 In tracing the journal of the colonists, one remarkable fact 
 cannot but attract attention. Amidst a long chronicle of dis- 
 tresses, such as " try men's souls," there is hardly a single indi- 
 cation of discord among themselves, or of discontent with the 
 conduct of those whom they had chosen to have the preeminence 
 over them — scarcely a trace of mutual jealousies or factious oppo- 
 sition, but constantly recurring evidences of mutual kindness and 
 respect. If there were difierences and disputes, they have at least 
 had the wisdom to suppress all mention of them. This stamps the 
 superior character of the men ; it shows that they were of one 
 heart and one spirit, " in honour preferring one another," and 
 throwing over their mutual ofiences — for such can hardly fail to 
 
136 rntsT maemaqe. 
 
 have occurred — the veil of charity and brotherly forhearance. 
 The " ambition of the greatest was to be the servant of all." 
 
 In the mingled web of human life, joy and mourning are in- 
 extricably interwoven. The next matter recorded in the Pilgrim 
 chronicle, is the first marriage that took place in the colony, on 
 May 12th, 1621. It was between a widow and a widower, 
 Edward Winslow and Susanna White, both of whom had lost 
 their partners scarcely three months since, in the fearful mortality 
 of the first winter. Under ordinary circumstances, to contract a 
 new marriage so soon after a previous one had been dissolved by 
 death, would be deemed an act of indecent precipitation; but in 
 the trying situation of the colonists, the ordinary arrangements 
 of society were forced to give way to those dictated by necessity 
 or policy. Such an example tended, besides, to show a firm 
 resolution to abide by the colony, and take a lasting root in the 
 soil of their adoption. 
 
 On June 18th occurred the second ofience, (the Jlrst being the 
 misconduct of Francis Billington, which will be explained 
 hereafter.) This was the first duel (and apparently also the last) 
 fought in New England, upon a challenge at single combat 
 with sword and dagger, between Edward Dotey and Edward 
 Leister, servants of Mr. Hopkins. " Both being wounded, the 
 one in the hand, the other in the thigh, they are adjudged by 
 the whole company to have their head and feet tied together, 
 and so to lie for twenty-four hours without meat or drink ; but 
 within an hour, because of their great pains, at their own and 
 their master's humble request, upon promise of better carriage, 
 they are released by the Governor." 
 
 The settlement being now brought to some degree of order, and 
 intercourse with the Indians unrestrained, it was thought advis- 
 able to send an embassy to Massasoit, the chief of the nearest 
 Indians, partly to ascertain their locality and look into their 
 strength, examine the country, and prevent the disorderly visits 
 of the savages, who were attracted by the entertainment afforded 
 
NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE INDIANS. 137 
 
 them, to the do small inconvenience of the settlers, and finally 
 to make satisfaction for some apparent injuries, and to strengthen 
 the bonds of mutual, amity. Winslow, who had already approved 
 himself a skilful diplomatist, was again appointed to this office, 
 accompanied by Stephen Hopkins, and they took Squanto with 
 them as their interpreter. The ambassadors did not go empty 
 handed, but carried a coat of red cotton, edged with lace, to pro- 
 pitiate the good-will of the sachem. After a long march through 
 the woods, they fell in with Massasoit,and delivered their message. 
 In this the prudence and conscientiousness of the Pilgrims 
 towards the Indians were strikingly displayed. It will be re- 
 membered that while exploring the coast of Cape Cod, Standish 
 and his party had found and appropriated some Indian corn, for 
 which, lest offence should be taken, they now offered to give an 
 equivalent. They also desired that some seed com should be 
 furnished them, and that the Indians would bring skins for 
 trading. Massasoit having decked himself out in his red coat 
 and chain, and strutted about, equally admiring himself and 
 admired by his followers, faithfully promised to comply with 
 these requests. At night he promoted his distinguished guests 
 to a rather inconvenient place of honour — namely, to the same 
 bed with himself and his wife,— they being at one end and the 
 pilgrims at the other. Two of the chiefs who lay beside pressed 
 so closely upon them, and the assaults of the insect tribes were so 
 voracious, that they were more weary of their lodging than they 
 had been of their journey. After a five days' absence, "wet, weary, 
 and surbated," they gladly reached the settlement on Saturday 
 night, in time for the exercises of the Sabbath, the loss of which 
 would have been felt by the Pilgrims as a sorer privation than 
 that of food and sleep. 
 
 By this time they had made the somewhat unwelcome disco- 
 very, that a formidable tribe of Indians— the Narrohigansetts, as 
 they wrote it, or Narragansetts, who had not been included in the 
 ravages of the pestilence — occupied the interior of the country, 
 
138 ARRIVAL OP NEW SETTMEKS. 
 
 that they were at feud with Massasoit, and disposed to regard the 
 new English settlers with a feeling of hostility. One of Massasoit's 
 sachems named Conbatant, whom they suspected of treachery, 
 had carried off, and as it was supposed murdered, Squanto, whom 
 the Pilgrims thought themselves hound hoth in honour and policy 
 to rescue if living, or avenge if dead. The indefatigable Standish 
 was despatched with ten or a dozen men, and he stormed the village 
 of Conbatant, and safely carried off the missing interpreter. 
 
 In the ensuing November arrived the good ship " Fortune," 
 bringing to their great joy a reinforcement of thirty-five settlers, 
 among whom was their friend Cushman, and, as is believed, 
 many of those who had been obliged to return in the " SpeedwelL" 
 By this vessel they sent back such stores as they had been able 
 to collect for the benefit of the merchant adventurers. But 
 unfortunately, in consequence of certain letters from Plymouth, 
 describing the abundance of their store, the " Fortune " brought 
 with her no supplies for the settlers that had come over with 
 her, which reduced the whole colony to short allowance. 
 
 Scarcely had the " Fortune " taken her departure than the Nar- 
 ragansetts began to assume an insolent and threatening attitude. 
 They disliked the settlers on account of their alliance with 
 Massasoit, which prevented them from being masters of the 
 whole country. They heard moreover that although the English 
 had received an accession to their numbers, the new-comers had 
 brought with them neither arms nor provisions, so that the 
 colony was thereby rather weakened than strengthened. One day 
 a messenger came in from Canonicus, their sachem, and inquired 
 for the interpreter, Squanto. On learning that he was absent, 
 the herald seemed rather glad than sorry, and leaving for him 
 a bundle of arrows, wrapped in a rattlesnake's skin, " desired to 
 depart with all expedition," as fearing, no doubt, that he had 
 come upon a rather unsafe en-and. Being however detained, 
 and in grievous apprehension for his life, he confessed that the 
 tenor of his errand was hostile. The governor released him, 
 
SQTJANTO'S INTKIGTJES. 139 
 
 and sent Mm home with a message, " to certify his master that 
 he had heard of his large and many threatenings, at which 
 he was much offended, daring him in those respects to the 
 utmost if he would not he reconciled to live peaceably as other 
 his neighbours, manifesting withal his desire of peace." But 
 when, upon Squanto's return, the governor was assured that the 
 rattlesnake's skin imported no less than open defiance, he deter- 
 mined to resent the insult, and stuffing the skin with powder and 
 shot sent it back to Canonicus, with the assurance that if he had 
 but shipping to go in quest of him, he would not have failed to 
 anticipate so insolent a challenge. Of all things, the Indians 
 stood most in terror of the fire-arms of the English ; and thus 
 when the sachem received the skin he would not even touch the 
 mysterious combustible, nor suffer it to remain in his tent, but 
 ordered the messenger to take it back again to the governor. 
 Upon his refusal, another took it up, and after being handed 
 about from one to another, it returned at last to the settlement. 
 Though somewhat relieved by the salutary terror thus struck 
 into the chief of the Narragansetts, yet conscious of their real 
 weakness, as a measure of precaution, the Pilgrims surrounded 
 the entire town with a stockade, while Captain Standish mar- 
 shalled the whole company into four squadrons, and instituted a 
 regular military organization. 
 
 It was not long before they discovered that Squanto, in order to 
 magnify his own importance with the Indians, boasted on all sides 
 of his ability to direct their movements at his pleasure, and began 
 to sow seeds of discontent and suspicion in the breast of Massa- 
 soit. Among other devices he gave out that the English, who 
 were regarded as possessing almost preternatural power, had got 
 the plague buried ia their store-house, and could send it forth 
 in every direction whenever they thought proper. Upon being 
 asked whether this was really true, the settlers denied that 
 they possessed such a power ; but they asserted, what, if true 
 in itself, conveyed a false though salutary impression to the 
 
 k2 
 
140 EXPEDITION TO MASSACHUSETTS BAY. 
 
 minds of the superstitious Indians — " The God of the English," 
 they declared " had it in store, and could send it at his pleasure 
 to the destruction of their enemies." 
 
 A second trading joumej was now undertaken by the adven- 
 turous Standish among the tribe of Massachusetts, whence they 
 returned with a good store of skins and furs. In the meantime 
 Massasoit had repaired to the plantation, and demanded that 
 Squanto, who was his subject, should be given up to him, in 
 consequence of his mischievous intrigues. As the governor was 
 about to comply, a boat was seen passing in front of the town, 
 and suspecting some collusion with the French, he refused to give 
 up Squanto till he had ascertained what vessel it was. The 
 alarm proved false ; the boat belonging to a fishing-ship called the 
 " SpaiTow," despatched by Master Weston, a London merchant, 
 which landed six or seven passengers who should have been sent 
 before to the plantation. 
 
 In the course of the autumn of 1621, an expedition was sent 
 out to the neighbouring shores of Massachusetts Bay. Its 
 object was partly to explore the country, and partly to make 
 peace, and open a trade with the tribe of Indians, who had often 
 threatened to molest them. For these purposes ten men were 
 appointed, among whom was probably Winslow, accompanied 
 by Squanto and two other savages, "to bring them to speech 
 with the people and interpret for them." 
 
 This cruise is interesting as being the first exploration of a 
 spot which shortly became more important than Plymouth itself, 
 and has since thrown it completely into the shade. Setting out 
 with the tide about midnight, on September 18th, they reached 
 the bottom of Massachusetts Bay, but did not land until the 
 next morning. They found many lobsters, collected by the 
 savages, which they cooked and ate under a cliiF, which Mr. 
 Young supposes to be Copp's Hill, at the north end of the 
 peninsula, shortly after to be covered by the city of Boston. 
 They visited the petty sachems, and explored the bay, 
 
TRANSACTIONS WITH THE INDIANS. 141 
 
 describing its numerous islands, many of which thie Indians 
 had already cleared and cultivated. On one occasion they gave 
 proof of that considerate and conscientious spirit which animated 
 them in all their transactions with the savages. Although they 
 sent before them two Indians to look for the inhabitants, and 
 inform them of the object of their visit, they found on their 
 arrival the women of the place together ia a state of trembling 
 apprehension ; but, says the narrator, probably Winslow himself, 
 "seeing our gentle carriage toward them, they took heart and 
 entertained us in the best manner they could, boiling cod and 
 such other things as they had for us. At length, with much 
 sending for, came one of their men, trembling and shaking for 
 fear. But when he saw we intended them no hurt, but came 
 to truck, he promised us his skias also. Here Tisquantum 
 (Squanto) would have had us rifle the salvage women, and taken 
 their skins and all such skins as might be serviceable for us, 
 for said he, 'they are a bad people, and have oft threatened 
 you ; but our answer was, ' Were they ever so bad we 
 would not wrong them, or give them any just occasion against 
 us.' For their words, we little weighed them ; but if they once 
 attempted anything against us, then we would deal far worse 
 than he desired. Having well spent the day, we returned to the 
 shallop, almost all the women accompanying us to truck, who 
 sold their coats from their backs, and tied boughs about them, 
 but with great shamefacedness ; for indeed they are more modest 
 than some of our English women are. We promised them to 
 come again to them, and they promised us to keep their skins." 
 Having completely succeeded in the object of their cruise, on 
 the evening of the 22d, "the wind coming fair, and having a 
 light moon, they set out at evening, and through the goodness of 
 God came safely home before noon the day following." 
 
 It is gratifying to turn to these early days, to trace out these 
 little excursions into the wilderness, and observe the good under- 
 standing between the Indians and the Pilgrims, brought about 
 
142 TEANSACTIONS WITH THE INDUNS. 
 
 by the wise union of firmness and kindness on the part of the 
 latter towards their rude hut not insensible neighbours. It is 
 observable, that the Pilgrims almost invariably speak as weU of 
 the Indians as they were accustomed to do of each other. 
 
 " We have found them," says Winslow, in a private letter, 
 " very faithful in their covenant of peace with us, very 
 loving, and ready to pleasure us. We often go to them and 
 they come to us. Some of us have been fifty miles by land 
 in the country with them. . . . Tea, it hath pleased God so to 
 possess the Indians with a fear and love unto us, that not only 
 the greatest king amongst them called Massasoit, but also all the 
 princes and people round about us, have either made suit unto us, 
 or been glad of any occasion to make peace with us, so that seven 
 of them at once have sent their messengers to us to that end. 
 Tea, an isle at sea which we never saw hath also, together with 
 the former, yielded willingly to be under the protection and sub- 
 ject to our Sovereign Lord King James. So there is now great 
 peace amongst the Indians themselves', which was not formerly, 
 neither would have been but for us ; and we, for our parts, walk 
 as peaceably and safely in the wood as in the highways in 
 England. We entertain them familiarly in our homes, and they 
 as friendly bestowing their venison upon us. They are a people 
 without any religion or knowledge of any God, yet very trusty, 
 quick of apprehension, ripe witted, just." 
 
 Thus Winslow, to whose own wise counsels and conciliating 
 manners this blessed harmony was in no small measure owing. 
 How pleasant to contrast it with the bitter jealousies and exter- 
 minating wars which accompanied the subsequent extension of 
 the colonies, and the repeated encroachments upon the hunting- 
 grounds of the Indians, leading the latter to a desperate and fatal 
 endeavour to stem the progress of their more powerful neighbom-s! 
 As we track the wild pathways through the dusky woods, and pace 
 the margin of the limpid lakes which still surround Plymouth, 
 solitary as when the Pilgrims first landed in the bay, but where 
 
DESTITUTION OF THE PILGBIMS. 143 
 
 not a single Indian is now to te found, we cannot but go back in 
 imagination to those days when the sturdy Englishman, in corselet 
 and huff, was to be seen sitting on the grass by the side of the 
 plumed and painted chieftain, in friendly intercourse over a meal 
 of wild venison which the latter had taken in the chase. Nor 
 can we think without pain of that iU-fated people, which the 
 force of an invincible necessity has almost blotted from the face 
 of the earth. 
 
 On learning that the " Sparrow," with a whole fleet of fishing 
 vessels lay at anchor at a place some forty leagues to the north- 
 ward, Bradford despatched Winslow to obtain, if possible, a 
 supply of provisions to relieve their pressing necessity. But his 
 utmost exertions could only gather such a stock, as, carefully 
 husbanded, allowed a quarter of a pound of bread per day until 
 the time of harvest. On Winslow's return the distress had 
 become extreme. Their nets were not sufficiently strong to hold 
 the swarms of bass and other fish that resorted to the bay — they 
 had no tackling to take cod — and but for the clams and the 
 " alewives," — a small herring that ascends the river — a species of 
 small sea-crab, and other fish which they were able to take by 
 hand, they must have perished from actual starvation. The 
 Indians, boasting how easy it would be to cut them off in their 
 enfeebled condition, insulted over their weakness ; and even their 
 old ally, Massasoit, now looked but coldly upon them. 
 
 The apprehension of a sudden attack led them to the further 
 precaution of erecting a regular fort upon the hill where they had 
 formerly planted their ordnance, some traces of which may still 
 be discerned upon the venerable crest of " Burial Hill." 
 
 Fresh trials now awaited the Pilgrims, which it required the 
 utmost exertion of their prudence and firmness to encounter; and 
 this time they arose, neither from sickness, famine, nor Indian 
 hostility, but from the misconduct of their own countrymen. 
 About the end of June, 1622, two vessels, the "Charity" and 
 the " Swan," arrived at the settlement, despatched by Master 
 
144 ESTABLISHMENT OF NEW COLONY. 
 
 Weston, one of the merchant adventurers, to establish a settle- 
 ment on his own private account, somewhere iu the neighbour- 
 hood of Plymouth. As it had too often happened in the colo- 
 nization of Virginia, the men sent out were mostly of the very 
 offscouring of society, destitute of industry, economy, or prin- 
 ciple, " so base," to quote the words of one describing them, " as 
 in all appearance not fit for an honest man's company." Evils 
 hitherto kept at a distance by the strict integrity as well as by the 
 vigorous firmness of the Pilgrims in their intercourse with the 
 Indians, were now brought upon them by the reckless, cowardly, 
 and dishonourable behaviour of this new body of settlers. 
 
 As Weston had been among the most zealous friends of the 
 Plymouth colonists, they thought themselves obHged to do all 
 in theii power to further his objects. They treated the new 
 comers with the utmost hospitality, consistent with their slender 
 and precarious supphes. But the self-denial which the Pilgrims 
 imposed upon themselves was too irksome to the selfishness of 
 these strangers ; who not satisfied with the utmost allowance of 
 flour consistent with the little store on hand, meanly stole the 
 green com, (which, when boiled iu this state, is exceedingly 
 delicious,) thus prematurely exhausting the resources of their 
 entertainers. They moreover repaid the kindness shown to them 
 by secret slanders and complaints. At length they removed 
 to a spot called Wessagussett, in Massachusetts Bay, where 
 they had determined to plant their colony. The Pilgrims 
 beheld them depart with no small satisfaction, but unhappily they 
 only departed to work greater mischief at a distance than that 
 they had already inflicted upon them at home. 
 
 The arrival at the end of August of two other trading vessels, 
 the " Discovery " and " Sparrow," furnished the colonists with a 
 welcome opportunity of replenishing their slender store of pro- 
 visions, and of obtaining knives and beads to traffic for skins 
 with the Indians. But for this providential supply they would 
 have been worse off than ever they were, not only having a 
 
DEATH OF SQTJANTO. 145 
 
 slender store of corn for the ensuing year, but Having no means 
 of supplying their wants by trading. 
 
 Mr. Weston's large ship, the " Charity," now sailed for 
 England, leaving the smaller one, the " Swan," for the use of the 
 new settlers at Wessagussett. At their request the Pilgrims 
 entered into a partnership to trade with the natives for com, and 
 preparations were made for departure. At this critical moment 
 the death of Master Eichard Greene, the hrother-in-law of 
 Weston, and the illness of Captain Standish, compelled Bradford 
 himseK to undertake the conduct of the journey. He set out, 
 accompanied as usual by Squanto, who fell sick and died a few 
 days afterwards ; and as he had professed to be their guide to the 
 countries south of Cape Cod, their further progress in that 
 direction was frustrated. In spite of his idle boasting, and the 
 squabbles in which his blundering but well-meant zeal had 
 involved them with Massasoit and others, the loss of poor 
 Squanto was greatly regTetted by the Pilgrims. He had served 
 them to the best of his ability, had become attached to their 
 persons and their ways, and before his death he desired Bradford 
 to pray for him, " that he might go to the Englishman's God in 
 heaven;" bequeathing divers of his things to sundry of his 
 English friends as remembrances of his affection for them. 
 
 Bradford now proceeded to Massachusetts, where he received 
 many complaints of the conduct of the Wessagussett colonists, 
 and after concluding a successful trade returned to Plymouth. 
 
 The wanton and lawless conduct of Weston's people had by 
 this time produced a secret conspiracy between the Massachusetts 
 and Paomet Indians, to cut off the whole body of the English. On 
 one of his expeditions in search of com. Captain Standish had a 
 very narrow escape from the murderous knife of an assassin, 
 although unconscious of it at the time. While at the wigwam of 
 a certain sachem, with only two or three of his men, there came 
 in two of the Massachusetts Indians ; the chief of them, named 
 Wituwamat, was " a notable insulting villain," one who had 
 
146 INDIAN CONSPIRACT.' 
 
 formerly embrued his hands in the blood of English and French, 
 and had often boasted of his own valour, and derided their weak- 
 ness, especially because, as he said, they died crying and making 
 sour faces, more like children than men. This -villain took from 
 his neck a dagger which he had obtained from Weston's men, and 
 presented it to the sachem, telling him that the Massachusetts 
 Indians had determined on cutting off the Wesgagussetts colonists 
 for their malpractices; but fearful lest the Plymouth settlers 
 would avenge their blood, had resolved to wait till they were 
 strong enough to exterminate both. They had formerly solicited 
 the sachem to join the conspiracy, and Wituwamat now proposed 
 that as they had Standish and his men in their power, they 
 had better make sure of them at once. With this view he 
 endeavoured to persuade the Captain to send down to the boat 
 for the rest of his men, which he refused to do, desiring that the 
 corn might be carried down as usual. Another Indian from 
 Cape Cod, who, though he had maintained the semblance of 
 friendship, was also one of the conspirators, artftdly offered to 
 make a present of some com, and to carry it down to the ship 
 — ^having promised to murder Standish during his sleep, when 
 his companions would have fallen an easy prey. With this 
 design he accompanied the Captain on board. But either from 
 the coldness of the night, or a mysterious presentiment of evil, 
 the gallant Myles was unable to sleep — but either walked about 
 or sat by the fire till morning. The savage asked him why he 
 did not lie down as usual, to which he replied — he knew not weU, 
 but had no desire at aU to rest. Disappointed of his prey, the 
 wily Indian set sail with Standish and his men, having per- 
 suaded them to touch at his village, where they would all 
 undoubtedly have been murdered, had not this fatal resolve been 
 frustrated by a contrary wind. 
 
 During the absence of Standish, a circimistance occurred 
 which led to the discovery of this deep-laid plot. News came 
 to Plymouth that the sachem Massasoit was dangerously ill, and 
 
ILLNESS OF MASSASOIT. 147 
 
 that a Dutch vessel had been stranded in a storm just opposite 
 his dwelling. With the view of showing kindness to their old 
 ally, in spite of the recent coldness that had arisen between 
 them, Winslow was deputed to visit and if possible relieve him, 
 and also to open a communication with the Dutchmen. His 
 companion on this occasion was a certain "Master John Hamden, 
 a gentleman of London," who had wintered with them, and who 
 has confidently, but certainly without sufficient grounds, been 
 confoimded with the celebrated English patriot. Hobbamock, 
 an Indian, accompanied the party as guide. On the way thither 
 the travellers were falsely informed that Massasoit was dead, and 
 that the Dutch had got off their ship, and would be gone before 
 they could reach them. As Conbatant, whose conduct had been 
 very unfiriendly to the English, seemed most likely to be the 
 successor of Massasoit, and as Hobbamock had been engaged in 
 acting against him, he was fearful of falling into his power ; but 
 Winslow, with his usual policy, thought that it would be a good 
 occasion to establish more amicable relations, and with the 
 consent of the others, determined to continue the journey. 
 
 " On the way," says Winslow, " Hobbamock exclaimed, ' My 
 loving sachem, my loving sachem ! many have I known, but 
 never any like thee;' and turning him to me, said, whilst I 
 lived I should never see his like amongst the Indians ; saying 
 he was no liar, he was not bloody and cruel, like other Indians ; 
 in anger and passion, he was soon reclaimed ; easy to be reconciled 
 towards such as had offended him; ruled by reason in such 
 measure as he would not scorn the advice of mean men, and 
 that he governed his men better with few strokes than others did 
 with many ; truly loving where he loved ; yea, he feared we had 
 not a faithful friend left among the Indians ; showing how he 
 ofttimes restrained their malice, &c.; continuing a long speech 
 with such signs of lamentation and unfeigned sorrow, as it would 
 have made the hardest heart relent." 
 
 On reaching the dweUing of Massasoit, they found to their 
 
148 INTERVIEW WITH MASSASOIT. 
 
 great satisfaction that lie was yet alive. He was surrounded hy 
 a crowd of powwows or medicine men, who with their charms and 
 incantations kept up, says Winslow, " such a hellish noise as it 
 distempered us that were well, and therefore unlike to heal him 
 that were sick." The poor sachem was imable to see, hut still 
 retained the use of his understanding; and when informed that 
 Winslow and the English were come to see him, desired the 
 former to come forward and put forth his hand. Having taken 
 hold of it, he twice, hut very faintly repeated — " Art thou 
 Winslow ? " to which having received an affirmative answer, he 
 as often ejaculated, " Winslow, I shall never see thee again." 
 
 Had it not been for the timely arrival of the English, it is 
 most prohable he would never have got over his illness. But 
 Winslow took the case into his own hands, and by care and 
 good nursing, in a short time enabled him to sit upright. 
 Nothing could exceed the gratitude of Massasoit. He remembered 
 also his former friendly treatment, and exclaimed, " ' Now I see 
 the English are my friends and love me, and while I live I 
 shall never forget this kindness they have showed me.' Whilst 
 we were there, our entertainment exceeded that of all other 
 strangers." Before they left, he called Hobbamock privately 
 aside, and acquainted him with the conspiracy of the Massa- 
 chusetts and other Indians, which, during his sickness, he had 
 been earnestly, though vainly solicited, to join. He then counselled 
 the English, as they valued their present and futmre safety, and 
 notwithstanding their declaration that they would never strike 
 the first stroke, to anticipate the evil designs of their enemies, 
 by suddenly cutting off the ringleaders of the plot. He added 
 — what was evident — that it would be too late to do this when the 
 people of Wissagussett were exterminated, and they of Plymouth 
 exposed single-handed to an overwhelming force. 
 
 All this on the road home Hobbamock revealed to Winslow, 
 who on his arrival privately informed the governor. They 
 found Standisb just returned, and with him the perfidious Indian 
 
BEHAYIOUE OF THE NEW SETTLERS. 149 
 
 of Paomet, who was still labouring to induce the captain to sail 
 with him on the first fair wind. They sent home the villain 
 without letting him know they had discovered his designs, for 
 which they meditated a speedy and summary retribution. 
 
 In the meantime Governor Bradford had become fully ac- 
 quainted with those practices of the Wissagussett settlers, which, 
 by exasperating the Indians, had led them to form a conspiracy 
 by which he and his people were threatened. These wretches, 
 after wastefully consuming their own store, as they had done that 
 of the Pilgrims, made a practice of stealing com from their Indian 
 neighbours, who refused to lend in consequence or seU them any 
 further supply. Hereupon the major part were resolved to seize 
 by force what had only been withheld in consequence of their own 
 dishonest behaviour. Some of the better principled, however, 
 thought it more prudent to write to the governor of Plymouth, 
 and ask his advice before proceeding to such an extremity. 
 Bradford, who had ever observed the strictest equity iu his 
 own transactions with the Indians, exposed, in his reply, the 
 dishonesty no less than peril of such a course, admonished 
 the offenders that they would receive no help from him in any 
 such unlawful schemes, and finally told them that they could 
 expect no better reward than the gallows, whenever a special 
 officer should be sent over by his Majesty or the New England 
 council, to look into the affairs of the colony. 
 
 While thus, on one hand, striving to restrain the aggressions 
 of his English brethren, Bradford was resolved to strike terror into 
 the Indian conspirators by a bold and timely act of severity. On 
 the 23d of March a yearly court was held, at which it was 
 decided that Standish, with a sufficient body of men, should 
 proceed to the Massachusetts, and under pretence of trade, watch 
 for an opportunity of dealing with the ringleaders, and bring 
 back with him, if possible, the head of the T)loodthirsty Witu- 
 wamat, as a terror to similar offenders. 
 
 The valiant captain prepared for this perilous enterprise with 
 
150 TREACHERY OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 his usiial intrepidity, and, lest his purpose should be suspected by 
 taking a large body of men, selected eight only in whose courage 
 and conduct he could place implicit confidence. Before he set 
 out, a fugitive from Wissagussett, who had narrowly escaped an 
 Indian ambush, came in and exposed the miserable condition of 
 the colony. Standish lost not a moment in departing to their 
 assistance. Beaching Wissagussett, he found everything in 
 the utmost disorder, so that nothing would have been easier for 
 the Indians than to have surprised and massacred the colonists. 
 He then informed them of the Indian plot, and enjoined upon 
 them instantly to put their own place in a state of defence, while 
 with his men he went forward to seek out their enemies. 
 
 Some of the savages had by this time walked in, ostensibly to 
 trade in furs, but in reality to spy out the purpose of Standish 
 and his companions, which they already suspected ; and notwith- 
 standing his utmost efforts to the contrary, it seems that the eyes 
 of the fiery little captain betrayed what was passing in his 
 bosom. The Indians finding that they were discovered, resolved 
 to face the matter boldly. "This caused one Pecksuot (to describe 
 the issue in the words of the journal), who was a pniese, (or brave,) 
 being a man of a notable spirit, to come to Hobbamock, then 
 with them, and told him he understood that the captain was 
 come to kUl himseK and the rest of the savages there. ' Tell 
 him,' said he, ' we know it, but fear him not, neither wiU we 
 shun him; but let him begin when he dare, he shall not take us at 
 unawares.' Many times, after divers of them severally, or few 
 together, came to the plantation to him, where they would whet 
 and sharpen the points of their knives before his face, and use 
 many other insulting gestures and speeches. Amongst the rest, 
 Wituwamat bragged of the excellency of his knife. On the end 
 of the handle, there was pictured a woman's face ; ' but,' said 
 he, ' I have another at home, wherewith I have killed both 
 French and English, and that hath a man's face upon it ; and 
 by-and-by these two must marry.' Further he said of that 
 
SLAUGHTER OP HOSTILE INDliHS. 151 
 
 knife he there had, ' Hinnaim namen, hinnaim michen, matta 
 cuts;' that is to say, 'By-and-hy it should see, and hy-and-by 
 it should eat, but not speak.' Also Pecksuot, being a man of 
 greater stature than the captain, told him, though he was a great 
 captain, yet he was but a little man; and, said he, 'though I be 
 no sachem, yet I am a man of great strength and courage.' 
 
 " These things the captain observed, yet bare with patience for 
 the present. On the next day, seeing he could not get many of 
 them together at once, and this Pecksuot and Wituwamat both 
 together, with another man, and a youth of some eighteen years 
 of age, which was brother to Wituwamat, and, viUain-Uke, trod 
 in his steps, daily putting many tricks upon the weaker sort of 
 men, and having about as many of his own company in a room 
 with them, gave the word to his men, and the door being shut 
 fast, began himself with Pecksuot, and snatching his own knife 
 from his neck, though with much struggling, killed him there- 
 with, the point thereof he had made as sharp as a needle, and 
 ground the back also to an edge. Wituwamat and the other 
 man the rest killed, and took the youth, whom the captain 
 caused to be hanged. But it is incredible how many wounds 
 these two pnieses received before they died — not making any 
 fearful noise, but catching at their weapons, and striving to the 
 last. Hobbamock stood by all this time as a spectator, and 
 meddled not, observing how our men demeaned themselves in 
 this action. AU being here ended, smiling, he brake forth into 
 these speeches to the captain : — ' Yesterday Pecksuot, bragging 
 of his own strength and stature, said, though you were a great 
 captain, yet you were but a little man ; but to-day, I see you 
 are big enough to lay him on the ground.' " 
 
 This blow was followed up by the slaughter of a few others of 
 the hostile Indians, and the chase of several others who fled into 
 a swamp and thence insulted the English. The captain dared 
 the fugitive sachem to come out and fight him like a man, 
 showing him how base and woman-like he was in tonguing it as 
 
152 POLICY OF THE PILGEDIS. 
 
 he did, but this invitation he refused. Having thus broken up 
 the confederacy, Standish returned to Plymouth, carrying with 
 him the head of the bloodthirsty Wituwamat, which^ was set up 
 at the fort as a terror to the neighbouring Indians. Indeed, so 
 deep an impression was made by this bold and decided step, 
 that the sachems involved in the plot fled to distant hiding- 
 places, and the colony was delivered from further apprehension 
 of attack. 
 
 This act of summary vengeance, which to those on the spot 
 appeared not only justifiable but necessary, to their brethren in 
 HoUand seemed cruel and inexorable. Robinson, on hearing of 
 it, was greatly moved, and wrote over to them " to consider the 
 disposition of their captain, who was of a warm temper." 
 He hoped the Lord had sent him among them for good, if they 
 used him right, but he doubted whether there was not wanting 
 that tenderness of the Kfe of man made after God's image, which 
 was meet — adding, "0 how happy a thing had it been that 
 you had converted some before you killed any ! " It is to be 
 deeply regretted that the Pilgrims were driven to such an action 
 by the misconduct of others, for their own dealings with the 
 Indians were ever humane and conscientious. But there can be 
 no doubt that the colonists were menaced with destruction — that 
 Standish would have been murdered but for an accident — that 
 the ringleaders of such a plot deserved death ; the only question, 
 therefore, was, whether it were better to crush the conspiracy at 
 once, by punishing those who had fomented it, or wait tiU a 
 general rising of the Indians should bring on a sanguinary 
 struggle, in which perhaps the Pilgrims might be exterminated, 
 as were so many of their English brethren in Virginia. It 
 cannot be reasonably doubted that self-preservation, and the 
 desire to prevent a large eSusion of blood, suggested and justi- 
 fied the course decided on by the Pilgrims; and the intrepid 
 Standish it will be remembered was only the agent in its accom- 
 plishment. 
 
ARKANGEMENTS WITH THE MERCHANTS. 153 
 
 It has been already explained how hard were the conditions 
 under which the Pilgrims became bound to the Merchant 
 adventurers, through whose assistance they had been enabled to 
 carry out their plans. These Merchants, most of whom had been 
 stimulated by the hope of a profitable speculation, had been 
 gi-eatly disappoined at the result. Owing to the great mortality 
 and the hardships and difficulties incident to a new settlement, 
 the Pilgrims had not been able to make the anticipated returns. 
 On their own account' a dissolution of the compact had become 
 exceedingly desirable. Their heavy responsibilities acted like a 
 millstone round the neck of enterprise, and they were besides 
 exposed to much ignorant or malicious censure. Through these 
 hindrances, and the active intrigues of the Episcopal party, their 
 brethren in Holland had hitherto been prevented from joining 
 them. At length the. government of the colony decided upon 
 effecting, if possible, a severance of the connexion, and " The 
 negotiation was," says Mr. Russell, " entrusted to Mr. Isaac 
 Allerton, through whose discretion, talents, and perseverance, it 
 was at last accomplished." In 1627 he embarked for England, 
 to ratify the bargain he had made with the Merchant adven- 
 turers, bearing date, November 15th, 1626. The price paid was 
 eighteen hundred pounds sterling, payable in bonds of two 
 hundred pounds each, at Michaelmas, for nine years. One object 
 of the Pilgrims in making this arrangement was to facilitate the 
 removal from Leyden of their brethren and families, who were 
 unable to bear the expense of transportation, — another was to 
 discharge their just engagements to the adventurers. " Perhaps," 
 continues our American author, " no stronger temptation ever 
 existed to refuse payment than in this case. They had been 
 treated with contumely on the part of the adventurers, unrea- 
 sonable complaints had been made, and unjust slanders had 
 been uttered against them ; and they were three thousand 
 miles distant. It is therefore ground of rejoicing, that the 
 Pilgrims, under the temptation of poverty, and in the midst of 
 
 L 
 
154 CONTINUED HARDSHIPS. 
 
 their varied trials, scorned, under any pretence or consideratiori 
 whatever, to countenance the modem doctrine of repudiation, 
 which has in later times disgraced some portions of our country." 
 The foundations of the new state were laid in integrity and 
 honour, and Winslow, Bradford, Alden, Allerton, Prince, and 
 Standish, men, whose courage and conduct had carried it triumph- 
 antly through discouragement and peril, now nobly became 
 sureties with their fortunes, and not without eventual loss, for 
 the fulfilment of its commercial promises. 
 
 And thus, through manifold trials bravely met, came round 
 the month of April of the year sixteen hundred and twenty-three. 
 It found the settlers still struggling with the same hardships 
 and privations which had beset them at intervals ever since their 
 landing. The whole of their com save what was reserved for 
 seed was exhausted, and there appeared but little prospect of any 
 immediate relief. As their escape from starvation seemed wholly 
 to depend upon the success of the present harvest, in order to 
 give a stimulus to exertion, and " considering that every man, 
 in a measure more or less, loveth and preferreth his own good 
 before his neighbour's," and also the base disposition of some 
 drones who would not scruple, as they had done before, to profit 
 by others' labours — it was decided that each individual should 
 labour for his own private benefit, and not as heretofore for the 
 common good, certain reservations being afterwards lilade for the 
 necessities of the public service. The land was, therefore, 
 equally divided between the colonists, and they commenced their 
 labours in the hope of an abundant return. 
 
 Scarcely, however, had the com appeared above the surface of 
 the ground, when a great drought set in and continued for six 
 weeks, so that the crop upon which they depended for their very 
 existence seemed on the very point of perishing. " Now," says 
 their journal, " were our hopes overthrown and we discouraged, 
 our joy being turned into mourning." To add to their distress, 
 there was every reason to believe that a ship despatched to their 
 
A FAST APPOINTED. 155 
 
 assistance, had, after being twice driven tack by bad weather, 
 at last been wrecked on the coast. Even before their com wa&- 
 planted they were reduced to the extreme of destitution, " stag- 
 gering for very faintness and want of food," not knowing at 
 night where to have a bit in the morning, subsisting on clams 
 and lobsters, and ground nuts, with an occasional boat load of 
 fish, or a few deer which the hunters were lucky enough to bring 
 down. These trials they had hitherto borne with a cheerful 
 reliance on Providence ; but now their hearts sunk within them, for 
 ihat Providence itself appeared to desert them, and " God, who had 
 hitherto been their only shield and supporter, now seemed in his 
 anger to arm himself against them." Then followed a scene so 
 characteristic of the deep and solemn faith of the Pilgrims, that 
 we must C[uote it in their very words. Nothing but their own 
 sinfulness could, as they believed, have brought upon them this 
 terrible visitation, and therefore not only " did every good man 
 enter into examination of his own state with God," but they also 
 determined " to humble themselves before the Lord with fasting 
 and prayer." To that end a day was appointed by public autho- 
 rity and set apart from all other employments, " hoping," says the 
 pious narrator, " that the same God which had stirred us up 
 hereunto would be moved hereby in mercy to look down upon 
 us, and grant the request of our dejected souls, if our continuance 
 there might stand with his glory and our good. But O the 
 mercy of our God ! who was as ready to hear as we to ask ; for 
 though in the morning when we assembled together the heavens 
 were as clear and the drought as likely to continue as ever it 
 was, yet (our exercise continuing some eight or nine hours) 
 before our departure the weather was overcast, the clouds 
 gathered together on all sides, and on the next morning distilled 
 such soft, sweet, and moderate showers of rain, continuing some 
 fourteen days, and mixed with such seasonable weather, as it was 
 hard to say whether our withered corn or drooping affections 
 w^re most quickened or revived, — such was the bounty and good- 
 
 l2 
 
156 BELIEF iND THANKSGIVING. 
 
 ness of our God." Shortly after Standish returned with a timely 
 supply of provisions, and they also learned with joy that the 
 vessel they had supposed to be lost had safely regained the 
 shores of England, and would speedily repair to their assistance. 
 A solemn day of thanksgiving was now held to give thanks to 
 the great Hearer and Answerer of prayer, to whose special inter- 
 position, as the Pilgrims devoutly believed, their deliverance was 
 to be entirely attributed. 
 
 To carry this tide of mercies to the flood, came shortly after 
 two ships, the " Anne " and "Little James," bearing supplies to 
 satisfy their wants, and a large body of passengers to rejoice 
 their hearts, many of these being the wives and children of 
 several of the settlers, besides other relatives who had come out 
 to join them. These new comers were sadly dismayed at finding 
 tha reduced condition of their friends, who on their arrival could 
 welcome them with no better fare than a lobster or piece of fish, 
 without bread, and nothing to wash it down with but a cup of 
 " fair spring water." 
 
 But brighter days were now about to dawn upon them. They 
 had nobly borne the trials of the first settlement, and persevered 
 in spite of hardships and difficulties that would have over- 
 whelmed any others whose faith and patience were less deeply 
 rooted. And their noble endurance was well appreciated by the 
 Company in England, who wrote thus cheeringly to them : — 
 " Let it not be grievous to you, that you have been instruments 
 to break the ice for others who come after with less difficulty. 
 The honour shall be yours to the world's end." 
 
 While the Pilgrims had been thus battling with sickness and 
 distress, it may well be supposed how anxiously their brethren 
 at Leyden had watched for letters or even reports which reached 
 them, " few and far between," firbm the distant shores of America. 
 Nor, dejected and discouraged as they must have been by the news 
 of that fearful mortality which swept away, in the course of a few 
 short months, one-half of those from whom they so lately parted 
 
LETTEK EROM ROBINSON. 157 
 
 on the quay at Delfthaven, would they have hesitated to share 
 the trials and lahours of the surviyois, hut for the insuperable 
 difficulties that interposed. These feelings are beautifully ex- 
 pressed in a letter from Eobinson to his distant flock. " Much 
 beloved brethren, neither the distance of place nor distinction of 
 body can at all either dissolve or weaken that bond of true 
 Christian affection in which the Lord by his Spirit hath tied us 
 together. My continual prayers are to the Lord for you, my 
 most earnest desire is unto you, from whom I will not longer 
 keep (if God will) than means can be procured to bring with me 
 the wives and children of divers of you, and the rest of your 
 brethren, whom I could not leave behind me without great injury 
 both to you and them, and offence to God and all men. The 
 death of so many of our dear friends and brethren, oh ! how 
 grievous hath it been to you to bear, and to us to take know- 
 ledge of, which, if it could be lamenting, could not sufficiently be 
 bewailed ; but we must go unto them, and they shall not return 
 unto us. And how many even of us God hath taken away here 
 and in England since your departure, you may elsewhere take 
 knowledge. But the same God has tempered judgment with 
 mercy ; as otherwise, so in sparing the rest, especially those by 
 whose godly and wise government you may be and (I know) are 
 so much helped. In a battle it is not looked for but that divers 
 should die ; it is thought well for a side if it get the victory 
 though with the loss of divers, if not too many or too great. 
 God, I hope, hath given you the victory, after many difficulties 
 for yourselves and others, though I doubt not but many remain 
 for you and, us all to strive with." 
 
 From a private letter of Eobinson to Brewster, we gather the 
 reasons which prevented the members of the church at Leyden, 
 and especially their pastor, from rejoining their friends at 
 Plymouth. The ostensible cause was want of money, a large 
 sum having been already advanced by the merchant adven- 
 turers, and, owing to the depressing causes before enumerated. 
 
158 INTRIGUES. 
 
 but small returns sent over by the settlers. But the real 
 difficulty appears to lie deeper. It will doubtless be reniembered 
 that it was with great reluctance that King Jaines consented to 
 allow liberty of worship to the Pilgrims, and that only with a 
 reservation which almost neutralised the concession ; and it was 
 feared that a proclamation he had issued, to the effect that in 
 order to procure one uniform course of government in his domi- 
 nions, the government of Virginia should depend immediately on 
 himself, was intended to apply also to the Pilgrims. Among the 
 merchant adventurers, only a portion were warmly in favour of 
 their principles — another party as decidedly hostile to them — 
 while a third, though friendly, were influenced by certain preachers 
 who desired to supplant Eobinson and ruin Independency, espe- 
 cially by John Lyford, who was afterwards sent out, to the 
 great annoyance of the Pilgrims. Now, it was evident that to 
 hinder these obnoxious principles from spreading, the great 
 thing was, if possible, to prevent Robinson and his flock at 
 Ley den from joining their brethren in America; and the in- 
 trigues to this end were but too successful. It was a proof of 
 the spirit by which they were animated, that, in the presence of 
 Edward Winslow, (who, in order to serve the cause of the 
 colonists, had returned to England on board the " Anne,") these 
 opponents constrained the Company to promise that none of the 
 money then gathered should be expended in sending the Leyden 
 people to America. Lyford, after he was sent out thither, wrote 
 over to say, that " Mr. Eobinson and the rest must still be kept 
 back, or all would be spoiled." He even suggested changing 
 the master of a ship then coming over, and Winslow himself, 
 who acted as supercargo, lest they should privately take any of 
 their brethren on the coast of England. 
 
 But the venerated Robinson was never again to behold his 
 people. Whilst divided from them by these unworthy intrigues, 
 and suffering from that " hope deferred which maketh the heart 
 sick," on the twenty-second of February, in the year sixteen 
 
DEATH OF EOBINSON. 159 
 
 hundred and twenty-five, lie was seized with a mortal illness, 
 and died at Leyden on the first of March. The particulars, of 
 his death were conveyed to the Pilgrims in two letters, full of 
 that quaintness and simple pathos which generally characterized 
 their coiTespondence : — 
 
 " 1625. — Roger White to Governor Bradford, 
 
 " To his loving friend, Mr. "William Bradford, Governor of 
 Plymouth, in New England, these be, «S:c. 
 
 " Loving and kind Friends, &c. — I know not whether ever 
 this will come to your hands, or miscarry as other of my letters 
 have done ; yet in regard of the Lord's dealing with us here, 
 I have had a great desire to write unto you, knowing your desire 
 to bear a part with us both in our joys and sorrows, as we do 
 with you. 
 
 " These, therefore, are to give you to understand that it hath 
 pleased the Lord to take out of this vale of tears your and our 
 loving and faithftil pastor, and my dear and reverend brother, 
 Mr. John Robinson, who was sick some eight days, beginning 
 first to be sick on a Saturday morning ; yet the next day being 
 the Lord's day, he taught us twice, and the week after grew 
 every day weaker than other, yet felt no pain but weakness all 
 the time of his sickness. The physic he took wrought kindly, 
 in man's judgment, yet he grew every day weaker than other, 
 feeling little or no pain, yet sensible till the very last. He fell 
 sick the 22d of February, and departed this life on the 1st of 
 March. He had a continual inward ague, but, I thank the 
 Lord, was free of the plague, so that all his friends could come 
 freely to him ; and if either prayers, tears, or means would have 
 saved his life, he had not gone hence. But he having faithfully 
 finished his course and performed his work, which the Lord had 
 appointed him to perform, he now rests with the Lord in eternal 
 happiness; we wanting him and all church governors, not having 
 
160 LETTEES ON THE OCCASION. 
 
 one at present that is a governing ofl&cer amongst us. Now for 
 ourselves here left, (I mean the whole church,) we still by the 
 mercy of Grod continue and hold close together in peace and 
 quietness, and so I hope we shall do, though we be very weak. 
 Wishing (if such were the will of God) that you and we were 
 again together in one, either there or here ; but seeing it is the 
 will of the Lord thus to dispose of things, we must labour with 
 patience to rest contented till it please the Lord otherwise to 
 dispose of things." 
 
 And in a second letter, from Thomas Blossom to Governor 
 Bradford, occurs the beautiful passage : — 
 
 " He was taken away even as finiit falleth before it was ripe, 
 when neither length of days nor infirmity of body did seem to 
 call for his end. The Lord even then took him away, as it were 
 in his anger, whom if tears would have held, he had remained to 
 this day." 
 
 Although Eobinson himself was not suflfered to enter into the 
 promised land, yet a large portion of the Leyden exiles eventually 
 found means to rejoin their brethren at Plymouth, and, in the 
 enjoyment of religious union and decent competence, rejoice at 
 the success of that enterprise which had been undertaken amidst 
 many prayers and tears, and carried out at the expense of so 
 great toil, and suffering, and mortality. The work they had 
 proposed to themselves at Leyden, " to lay a foundation for the 
 kingdom of Christ in these remote parts of the world," was hap- 
 pily accomplished. Further ambition they had none, for their 
 treasure was in heaven, — nor, with their simplicity of heart 
 and singleness of aim, foresaw they the " hero worship," which 
 would clothe their names with glory, or the extent of that empire 
 that would commemorate as a festival the day when they landed 
 on the Rock at Plymouth. In the beautiful and prophetic lines 
 of Bryant — 
 
THE ATLANTIC. 161 
 
 " They little thought how pure a light 
 With years should gather round that day, . 
 How love shoidd keep their memories bright, 
 How wide a realm their sons should sway. 
 
 " Green are their bays — but greener stiU 
 Shall round their spreading fame be wreathed ; 
 And regions, now untrod, shall thrill 
 With reverence when their names are breathed. 
 
 " TiU when the sun, with softer fires, 
 Looks on the vast Pacific's sleep. 
 The children of the Pilgrim sires 
 This hallovr'd day like us shall keep." 
 
 Having now traced the fortunes of our Pilgrims through the 
 most trying part of their career, we must next — following their 
 course from the old to the new world — transfer the scene of our 
 descriptive sketches to the shores of America. Very diflferent are 
 the feelings with which a traveller prepares to cross the Atlantic 
 from those with which our ancestors emharked two centuries ago. 
 At that time the ships that crossed were few and far between, 
 of small, burden, but huge discomfort ; and those who adven- 
 tured took leave of their friends as going upon a distant and 
 perilous enterprise, from which peradventure they never might 
 return. " Mais nous avons changi tout cela." At present he 
 whom business or pleasure calls to the new world, walks on board 
 one of the " Collins" or " Cunard" steamers as into a sumptuous 
 hotel, and calculates to the day, and almost toJ;he very hour, of 
 his sitting down to dinner at New York or Boston. In short, the 
 vast Atlantic ocean, over which poor pilgrims and pioneers of 
 commercial enterprise toiled at such wide intervals, is now, in 
 spite of storms and icebergs, completely bridged; the old and 
 new world are linked together ; scarcely a day passes without the 
 departure of a vessel, and the stream of passengers to and fro is 
 ■kept up with the continuity of Cheapside or Fleet-street. Without 
 pausing, then, to describe the passage, which might nevertheless 
 
162 AMERICAN EAILWATS. 
 
 furnish the subject of an amusing episode, suffice it to say, that 
 on the eleventh' day after leaving Liverpool we reached New 
 York, and at once proceeded to Boston, whence the localities 
 connected with the Pilgrims are reached in the course of two or 
 three hours by the Old Colony Railroad. For just as England 
 is called the " old country," in comparison with her transatlantic 
 offshoot, so is that part of America first settled by the " Pilgrim 
 Fathers " denominated the " old colony," as being the germ 
 whence sprung the other New England States. 
 
 Repairing then to the station, we took a ticket for Plymouth, 
 the terminus of the Old Colony line, and were speedily thundering 
 over the long wooden causeways that lead out of Boston. There 
 are some characteristic differences between English and American 
 railways. The latter are more slightly constructed. The stations 
 have no architectural pretensions like ours, but like the houses, 
 are built of boards, and there is no barrier on each side to keep 
 off cattle and stragglers. The carriages, compared with those of 
 England, are typical of the different institutions and social 
 feeUngs of the two countries. There is no Fii-st- class luxuriously 
 padded for the favoured few — no Second for the middle class, un- 
 cushioned and uncomfortable, consisting of bare boards stuck 
 over with advertisements — and a still lower deep (though that is 
 hardly possible) in the Third class, intended for the accommo- 
 dation of the poorest ordei's of society. In America there is but 
 one class for all citizens of whatever rank, consisting of a long 
 carriage, furnished with two rows of side seats or arm-chairs, 
 each for two persons, well cushioned and very comfortable, being 
 the medium between the exclusive luxury of the English first- 
 class, and the sordid discomfort of the second. Taking one of 
 these seats you may chance to find yom'self alongside of the 
 Secretary of State, or peradventure of a mechanic in a fustian 
 jacket ; but one thing is strikingly observable, and that is the 
 average good conduct and respectable demeanour of the travellers 
 of every grade in society. It should be observed, that there is 
 
FOIST IMMIESSIONS. 163 
 
 here also a second class, but intended exclusively as a receptacle 
 for negroes and emigrants. 
 
 But little of interest was visible from the windows of the car. 
 The villages we passed had none of the dingy, picturesque anti- 
 quity of our own cottages, rooted as it were to the soil, and 
 almost part of it, but looked as if the houses had been built of 
 white card-board, and the Venetian blinds painted bright green ; 
 so gay, toy-like, and unsubstantial did they appear, as if planted 
 down at random during the night, and removable at an hour's 
 notice. They are, however, very comfortable residences, and 
 in a rural district much more cheerfiil than brick. The soil 
 seemed poor, and I was at first puzzled how so numerous and 
 apparently thriving a population could manage to subsist; but 
 I found on inquiry that this was the seat of the shoe business, 
 while others ploughed the sea for a living, or with the ready tact 
 so characteristic of the Yankees, combined the most opposite 
 pursuits, thus making a good living where a less acute and 
 enterprising people would starve. 
 
 After about two hours had elapsed, I began to catch glimpses 
 " of the Bay of Plymouth, and the hills which girdle it in ; but 
 like most of the coast scenery of America, it has little in com- 
 parison with that of Europe to gratify the eye of a lover of 
 nature, and I must confess my first glance over the scene I had 
 come to survey was one of disappointment. On reaching 
 Plymouth, the principal hotel (called after the friendly Indian 
 who welcomed the first Pilgrims — " The Samoset ") was not yet 
 opened, and I therefore repaired to an old-fashioned tavern called 
 the " Mansion House," which stood in the centre of the village, 
 overshadowed with an enormous weeping elm. This was lUy 
 head-quarters during my stay, and here I procured one of the 
 most comfortable and well-furnished bed-rooms I ever met with 
 in America, where the dormitories even in the first hotels cannot, 
 I should imagine, with some exceptions, difier much in dimen- 
 sions from those in the state prisons. 
 
164 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 Perhaps the reader would like to know how they live at one 
 of these primitive country taverns. At half-past five, the bell is 
 rung, to arouse the inmates from sleep, and another at six 
 summons them to breakfast. This is spread in a long bare 
 looking room, where the boarders — most of them working men 
 or journeymen, a few travellers, with possibly one or two of a 
 higher grade in society — assemble at the table, which is decently 
 though not luxuriously spread. No words are wasted and no 
 time is lost, and in ten minutes the meal is over, and the apart- 
 ment empty. Dinner at noon, and tea at six, are performed with 
 the same despatch and silence ; though I sometimes contrived to 
 get up a conversation with one or Wo of those next to me, 
 shrewd and sensible men, and thus linger a few minutes later 
 over the tea-table, to the evident astonishment of the " helps " 
 and boarders. 
 
 In these " go-a-head " times, when the United States are so 
 rapidly filling up, and the acquisition of new and golden terri- 
 tories only seems to whet the appetite of her citizens for farther 
 "annexation;" this poor little town of Plymouth is looked 
 down upon as quite an old place, very much behind the stirring • 
 spirit of the age. There is, in truth, a quiet, old-fashioned, yet 
 cheerful look about it, well suiting the associations which render 
 it so interesting a place of pilgrimage. It consists of a few 
 principal streets, and a number of straggling bye-lanes running 
 ofi" into the surrounding country. Nothing in its way can well be 
 more charming or rural than such a viUage as this. The prin- 
 cipal streets, or to call them more correctly, avenues, are lined 
 with wooden houses, mostly airy and spacious, and often furnished 
 with an ample porch or verandah, running round two sides of the 
 building, which is neatly painted white, grey, or stone colour, 
 with window blinds and shutters of bright green. Many ot 
 these gay yet rustic looking dwellings are mostly detached, 
 standing amidst gardens full of shrubs and flowers, and almost 
 embowered in a covert of foliage. Rows of tall elms with 
 
PLYMOUTH. 
 
 165 
 
 drooping branches, almost meeting over the centre of the road, 
 give to the scene an air of pensive tranquillity and delicious 
 repose. In such a place a quiet sort of man might well be 
 content to wear away his existence. The only thing wanting is 
 an old English church, with grey walls and ivied tower, or in 
 default of such an impossibility, a sacred edifice in the antique 
 style ; but here, as everywhere (with but few exceptions) in 
 America, the churches unhappily are in the very vilest taste, and 
 constitute indeed the most prominent disfigurements of the 
 country, although a better taste is rapidly springing up. 
 
 A. — Plymouth village. 
 B.— Town Brook. 
 C— Billington Sea. 
 
 ID. — Captain's Hill. Duxbury. 
 E — Clarke's Island. 
 P. — Saquish Head. 
 G. — Jones River. 
 
 Of these streets, the first laid out by the Pilgrims is of course 
 the most interesting. They judiciously decided to build it upon 
 a high ground, where much of the land had been cleared and 
 planted with corn by the Indians. Below this ran " a very 
 sweet brook," with " many delicate springs of as good water as 
 can be drank." The mouth of the stream afforded them a small 
 
166 rouNDiNG OP PLYMOtrra. 
 
 harbour for their shallops and boats, and in the season it 
 abounded with fish. At the head of this street was the hill on 
 which they erected a fort, and thence called Fort-hill, and now 
 Burial-hill, which shall be noticed presently. 
 
 But before entering upon a detailed description, it may be well 
 to refer to the map, which will give a general idea of the character 
 of Plymouth Bay, and of the relative position of the prominent 
 objects hereafter described in these sketches. It may be observed 
 that the shores are rather flat, — or rising in gentle acclivities from 
 the water, — ^with the exception of "Captain's Hill" and the 
 ridge of Manomet, — ^which latter cannot be included in the map. 
 
 To return now to the operations of the Pilgrims. As well as 
 the weather would permit, they set to work cutting timber to 
 build this fort, and laid out "two rows of houses and a fair 
 street," in a line from the hill down towards the landing-place. 
 " In the afternoon of December 28th," says Bradford, " we 
 went to measure out the grounds, and first we took notice 
 how many families there were, willing all single men that had 
 no wives to join with some family, as they thought fit, that so 
 we might build fewer houses ; which was done, and we reduced 
 them to nineteen families. We thought this proportion was 
 large enough at the first for houses and gardens to impale them 
 round, considering the weakness of our people." On the 9th of 
 January, being tolerably fine, they divided by lot the plot of 
 ground whereon to build the house, after the proportion formerly 
 allotted. They agreed that every man should build his own 
 house, thinking by that course men were in more haste than work- 
 ing in common. At the bottom of the street they had begun a 
 common house, about twenty feet square, in which they now 
 first made their rendezvous, it being nearly finished, wanting 
 only covering. Some made mortar, others gathered thatch, so 
 that in four days half of it was thatched, but frost and foul 
 weather sorely interrupted their labours. 
 
 In the first page of the first book of " Old Colony Records " 
 
PLAN OF ITS ITRST STREET. 167 
 
 is a rough plan of this street, of which the following is a fao 
 
 5 dirn^ J^t^S% U-J^ ma/- 162. Oj 
 
 djojtrt^ Ooo JUn dni. 
 
 04f^ J^^ t)^s7^^^ 
 
 ^r^t rvay 
 
 
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168 
 
 PILGEIM LOCALITIES. 
 
 To the main avenue they gave the name of " Leyden-street," 
 after "that fair and beautiful city" where they met with a refuge 
 for so many years. The cross street marked " Hige way " ran 
 down hill to the Town Brook, hut exists no longer, the road 
 having been turned off a little further to the westward. 
 
 At the head of this street, just under Burial Hill, was after- 
 wards erected the first Congregational church, replaced by a more 
 modern erection. From the steps of this building is a good view 
 of Leyden street, corresponding in direction with the old map. 
 But, alas ! not one of the old houses erected by the Pilgrims is 
 now standing. The " common house " was on the site of the 
 last tenement seen on the right hand in the view, and that inha- 
 bited by Bradford on the ground occupied by the first building 
 on the left. Elm-trees of gigantic growth completely meet and 
 overshadow the street, and their long drooping branches, like the 
 tendrils of a parasite plant, descend very nearly down to the 
 ground. The dwellings are of wood, and being painted, and 
 with green blinds, have a very noat and comfortable appearance. 
 
 The Allyn House, pulled down not very long ago, was the 
 last remaining specimen of the old style of building, and, like tlic 
 

 LEYDEN STREET 
 
ALLTN HOUSB — COLE'S HILL. 169 
 
 houses near Faneuil Hall in Boston, resembles with its over- 
 hanging gahles and latticed windows those formerly comipon in 
 England, and of. which every country town can furnish an 
 example. The annexed cut is copied by permission from 
 Mr. EusseU's excellent guide. 
 
 From Leyden-street we descend rather steeply into another 
 which runs parallel with the sea-shore, and leads to the famous 
 " Forefathers' Rock." On our left hand is an abrupt ridge, the 
 top of which is open and covered with grass, but its sides dis- 
 guised by modern edifices. This is called Cole's Hill, and was 
 the original burial-place of the Pilgrims during the dreadful 
 mortality of the first winter. There are no tombstones on the 
 spot, nor anything to indicate that the remains of the earliest 
 martyrs of the PUgrimage are here interred. Formerly this 
 little grassy eminence overhung the sea-beach, and immediately 
 below, projecting into the waves, was the granite boulder upon 
 which the Forefathers landed. The whole scene, it is greatly to 
 be regretted, is now so disguised that its original features are 
 with difficulty to be traced. Most travellers, when conducted to 
 the spot where the " Eock " stands, or rather stood, rub their 
 eyes, and wonder what can have become of it. They find, 
 perhaps, without being aware, that they are at that moment 
 standing upon it, and that were it not pointed out and the dust 
 rubbed off, they would never have distinguished its surface from 
 the rest of the quay in which it is embedded. Yet, disappointing 
 as may be this view of the Eock, there is no room for scepticism 
 as to its authenticity. In proof of this we may quote an inte- 
 resting and well attested anecdote from Mr. EusseU's Guide, 
 concerning " Elder Thomas Faunce, the last ruling elder in the 
 first church of Plymouth, who was born in the year 1646, and 
 died in the year 1745, at the advanced age of ninety-nine years. 
 In the year 1741 the elder, upon learning that a wharf was 
 about to be built near or over the rock, which up to that period 
 had kept its undisturbed position at the water's edge, and fearing 
 
 M 
 
170 
 
 THE PILGRIMS' LANDING-PLACE. 
 
 that the march of improvement might subject it to injury, 
 expressed much uneasiness. Though residing three miles from 
 the village of Plymouth, and then in declining health, he left 
 home, and in the presence of many citizens, pointed out the rock 
 as being that which the Pilgrims, with whom he was contem- 
 porary and well acquainted, had uniformerly declared to be the 
 same on which they landed in 1620. Upon this occasion this 
 venerable and excellent man took a final leave of this cherished 
 memorial of his fathers." 
 
 The all but obliteration of this precious memorial is partly 
 owing to the erection of a quay around it, and partly to a foolish 
 attempt to remove it to the Town Square during the time of the 
 Kevolution, for the purposes of political excitement. In con- 
 ducting this operation the rock, which had been loosened from 
 its original position, split in two, upon which the under part was 
 Ifeft behind, and the upper portion dragged to the Town Square, 
 where it served as a pulpit for revolutionary orators. Thence it 
 was finally removed to its present position in front of Pilgrim 
 Hall, and surrounded with a ponderous iron railing, which bids 
 defiance to the attempts of thoughtless patriots, whose zeal, if 
 allowed its free course, would hardly leave a morsel of the 
 original remaining. 
 
 This fragment is part of a great boulder of dark grey Sienite 
 granite, and well rounded by rolling and the action of water, and 
 resembling many others scattered about in the neighbourhood. 
 
BUEYING HILL. 171 
 
 There is no stone in the world regarded with so much vene- 
 ration, unless those within the Mosque of Omar at Jerusalem, 
 and the Temple at Mecca. To this day the descendants of the 
 original settlers dispute as to which of them first set foot upon 
 it ; and far from its interest diminishing with time, the wider 
 spreads the bounds of the great republic, the prouder is the feeling 
 with which its citizens seem to regard it. 
 
 The " Burying Hill" is the most remarkable spot in Plymouth. 
 From whatever side we approach the town, it rises conspicuously 
 above all its buildings — a lofty green mound, covered with dark 
 grey tombstones — the first place to receive the rays of the sun, 
 and the last upon which they linger. 
 
 Let us ascend to it by the narrow footpath firom the head of 
 Leyden-street — worn deeply in the thick and mossy turf— and, 
 seated on one of the tombstones, look out upon the surrounding 
 scene. What a Sabbath stilLoess reigns around! Scarcely a 
 sound arises from the town below, haK-buried among its leafy- 
 groves ; though the curling smoke tells of many a cheerful home 
 concealed amidst the foliage. It is morning, the tide is in, the 
 wide expanse of the bay glitters with light, and a fresh and 
 bracing sea breeze pleasantly salutes us. The robin redbreast — 
 a much larger bird than his elder brother in England— hopping 
 from ' stone to stone, seems to haunt this fresh and breezy 
 eminence. The view that it commands, though it may present 
 no very striking natural features, is pleasing from its wide 
 expanse of sea and shore ; while it embraces the whole field of 
 Pilgrim adventure, from the arrival on the coast to the settle- 
 ment at Plymouth. If the weather is clear, the white sand-hills 
 of Cape Cod may be faintly seen in the distance, while the in- 
 dented shores of the bay — embracing within its curve Clarke's 
 Island, Saquish Head and the Gurnet light, the green hill of 
 Duxbury, and the pine-clad ridge of Manomet — are all out- 
 stretched before us with the distinctness of a map. 
 
 But the spot whereon we stand, the cemeteiy, is itself the 
 
 M 2 
 
172 
 
 BURYING HILL. 
 
 most striking feature of the scene. It is thickly covered with 
 dark grey slate-stones, most of them brought from England, 
 adorned -with quaint carvings of death's-head and cross-bones, 
 and hearing the names of the first comers and their numerous 
 descendants. It is, however, singular that the graves of the 
 earliest Pilgrims are unknown ; though not improbably some of 
 the older tombstones, but just peeping up above the surface of 
 the soil, and from which the inscription has been obliterated, 
 may belong to these venerated fathers of the settlement. 
 
 In the centre, and conspicuous in our engraving, arises a column 
 placed some years ago to the memory of William Bradford, 
 whom our story took up as the yeoman of Austerfield, and leaves 
 as the honoured governor of the settlement of Plymouth, The 
 spot was known to his descendants, many of whom lie buried in 
 a cluster around him. Among these is the tombstone of his two 
 sons one of which is selected as a good specimen of the style of 
 the more ornamented ones. 
 
WATSON'S HILL. 173 
 
 At the southern extremity of the hill appear some faint 
 traces of the platform erected by the Pilgrims, which gave to it 
 originally the name of " Fort Hill." Upon this commanding 
 point, which communicated, with Town Brook hy an avenue now 
 called Spring-street, they erected a strong timber fort, upon 
 which they planted their cannon and kept watch against the 
 approach of the Indians. The same building long served them 
 as a meeting-house during these troublous and suspicious days. 
 
 On the opposite side to the bay and town, the view inland 
 extends over an irregular ground stiU fringed with the primitive 
 forest. Deep, dark lakelets, surrounded with trees, slumber in 
 the hollow recesses of the little dells and valleys, which, not- 
 withstanding the cleared fields and dwellings occasionally inter- 
 spersed, still retain much of their original wildness. 
 
 On the other side of the Town Brook rises a bold eminence 
 called Watson's Hill, at present half covered with buildings, and 
 crowned by a windmill. It was here that Massasoit first made 
 his appearance with his Indians, and in the hollow beneath, 
 where now stands the bridge, that Winslow and his men 
 advanced to meet him. 
 
 In wandering about this venerable place of sepulture, I was 
 particularly struck with the longevity attained by a large pro- 
 portion of its tenants. It is remarkable that many of those who 
 survived the first winter, — fatal to half their companions, — and 
 became accustomed to the climate, which if keen and cutting, is 
 remarkably pure and salubrious, should, with their immediate 
 descendants, have lived to eighty, ninety, and in some few 
 instances, above even a hundred years of age. One circumstance 
 was very characteristic: the number of Christian names, — 
 many taken directly from the Old and New Testament, or such 
 as " Experience," " Patience," "Fear," "Mercy," "Wrestling," 
 and the like, which, though to modem ears they may sound 
 quaint and puritanical, carry us back to the age of deep religioua 
 enthusiasm in which the colony was founded. 
 
174 PLYMOUTH AND ITS ENVmONS. 
 
 Such, in it3 main features, is the " Burying Hill," the most 
 venerable, if not the most beautiful necropolis to be met with on 
 the soil of America. 
 
 After fully exploring the village of Plymouth, we began to 
 make excursions in its neighbourhood. The morning was clear 
 and cold, when a light wagon drew up before the door of the 
 " Mansion House." The " wagon " of America does not answer 
 to the heavy machine of the same name in England, but is a 
 light four-wheeled affair for passengers, something Kke a Swiss 
 char, with large wheels, and hung very loosely, so as to take 
 easily to the ruts and inequalities of an American road. There 
 are generally buffalo-robes to wrap round one and keep out the 
 cold. Being joined by a friend who had volunteered as cicerone, 
 we set off at a rapid pace for Duxbury, to examine what traces 
 we might find of old Myles Standish, and to ascend a bold 
 eminence called after him the " Captain's HiU." We anti- 
 cipated an interesting excursion, and were not disappointed. 
 
 For some miles the road followed the shore of the bay, and then 
 — ^as a reference to the map will show — crossed Jones's River, and 
 swept round to the eastward to the village of Duxbury. The 
 country was somewhat bald and dreary, and we were not sorry 
 to draw up at the door of a farm-house, just under the brow of 
 the isolated hill which rose directly above. 
 
 A fine vigorous old man, with a cheerful eye, cheek hale and 
 ruddy as that of an English peasant, was guiding the plough in a 
 field hard by, accompanied by a limber slip of a boy about ten 
 years old. We hailed him, and asked leave to fasten up the 
 wagon during our absence, whereupon he immediately came 
 forward and tied up the horse for us. My friend on recognising 
 him said, — " Well, Mr. Soule, I am glad to see you so hearty at 
 your time of life." " Why, aye," was the reply, " I am seventy- 
 five, and thank God I can do a little work yet." This fine old 
 gentleman, as my friend told me, was a descendant of George 
 Soule, one of the Pilgrims who came over in the " Mayflower." 
 
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 5 
 
 Li 
 
 
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 ^fA'T iy^' 
 
captain's hill, 175 
 
 On learning that I came from London, lie shook me heartily 
 with his hard and honest palm, and said, " I hen often in your 
 city, when I was a sailor ; " for it appeared that in his younger 
 days he had, like many of his countrymen, ploughed the sea for 
 a suhsistence, "but in his declining days exchanged it for plough- 
 ing his own paternal acres. 
 
 We left him for a while, and struck up to the top of Captain's 
 Hill, a long slope covered with short green turf, like that of the 
 English downs, and scattered over with enormous grey boulders. 
 Above a curious row of these stones we sat down to enjoy the 
 prospect aroimd us. At the foot of the hill was Mr. Soule's 
 farm, with its fields protected by snake-fences, consisting of 
 rough slips of timber placed crosswise, zigzag fashion, — a cheap 
 but very ugly sort of enclosure, and which, it is 'to be hoped, will 
 in time give place to the green hedges which so greatly adorn 
 the " old country." In the hoUow below the farm-house appears a 
 pool of water, on the opposite side of which is a rising ground, 
 and upon this the dwelling of Myles Standish formerly stood. 
 
 Outstretched beyond was the wide expanse of Plymouth Bay ; 
 a part alone could be comprised within the limits of the annexed 
 sketch. But then it is by far the most interesting portion, for 
 here we see at a glance the course of Standish and his com- 
 panions on their first voyage of discovery in the shallop. Loom- 
 ing faintly in the extreme distance, are the sandy hills of Cape 
 Cod, and the long shore which the shallop explored on her way 
 to Plymouth Bay. Bounding it on the south, towers the dark- 
 clad ridge of Manomet, still covered with its primeval pines. At 
 its north entrance is the Gurnet light, and the low projecting 
 point of Saquish Head, between which were the breakers where 
 the little shallop was so nearly cast away ; while the small island 
 nearest to the shore, with two or three old trees, relics of its 
 original covering, is the memorable Clarke's Island. Yes, 
 behind that insignificant isle, with nothing whatever to dis- 
 tinguish it from ten thousand others, did the tempest-tossed 
 
176 PLTMOTJTH BAY. 
 
 Pilgrims find shelter from the storm; there did they kindle 
 a fire and watch all night in the rain, and there they rested on 
 the Sabbath which preceded the memorable Monday when they 
 first trod upon the rock of Plymouth. 
 
 The early accounts of the Bay speak of a second island, called 
 "Brown's," which seems rather to have been a shoal, and of 
 which some traces are perceptible to the right of Saquish Head 
 at low water, fart of the village of Plymouth is seen to the 
 right of the view, with the long projecting beach, and a small 
 light at its extreme point. 
 
 At the foot of the hill we rejoined our old friend, who sent his 
 little companion to guide us across a swamp to the dwelling and 
 spring of Myles Standish. When the Pilgrims came to Ply- 
 mouth, this part of its neighbourhood was allotted to and occu- 
 pied by Captain Standish, John Alden, Jonathan Brewster, and 
 Thomas Prence ; and it was ordained that these men and their 
 families should remove to Plymouth in the winter, in order that 
 they might the better attend upon the worship of God there esta- 
 blished. The hill and adjacent lands were assigned to Standish, 
 who called the place Duxbury, after his ancestral estate in 
 Lancashire, already described. When the old warrior settled 
 here, the neighbourhood was clothed with forests, and thus he 
 preferred planting his homestead near to the shore, whence, if 
 attacked by Indians, he could more easily jump into his boat, 
 and run across to his brethren at Plymouth. 
 
 The boy led us by the edge of the pool already noticed, 
 through the intricate footway of a small morass. Tufts of wild 
 rushes and spongy moss alternated with the drifted sand, heaped 
 up by the winter tempests, — the sea rolled in upon the desolate 
 shore of the bay, — the whole scene was wild, unpressive, and 
 solitary. At length the youngster paused at a small spring 
 welling out of the hill-side, and received into a small oblong 
 basin, the stones of which, if tradition is to be trusted, were 
 placed in their present position by the hands of Myles himself. 
 
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 5 
 
STANDISH MEMORIALS. 
 
 177 
 
 Keeds and wild flowers overhiuig the water, which trickled 
 down through moss and sedges tiU it mingled with the sea 
 below. 
 
 A few paces distant, and higher up the ridge, were some faint 
 indications of the dweUing-house, which was Tburnt down while 
 occupied by Standish's eldest son. 
 
 Here, then, reposed the old warrior after his eventful pilgrimage, 
 his conflicts with the Spaniards in the Low Countries, and with 
 the Indians in the forests of America. Here too, in 1656, he died, 
 at the good old age of seventy-two ; but his sepulchre, like that 
 of Moses, " no man knoweth unto this day." Most probably he 
 was interred upon his own ground, or at the ancient burial- 
 grotmd at Duxbury. Many memorials of him are extant, and 
 piously are they treasured up. His helmet and breast-plate are 
 missing'; his coat of mail, it is said, was seen by some one when 
 taken out of a box, but crumbled into dust upon being touched. 
 We find that a " Ceser's Comentaiys " formed a prominent 
 volume of his scanty library. But his good sword, with a huge 
 kettle and dish, are stiU preserved at Plymouth, and are here 
 presented together in a group. 
 
 On the back of the weapon is an Arabic inscription, which 
 would seem to indicate, so far as it could be made out by a 
 friend, that this is really one of those " Damascus blades " 
 
178 standish's family 
 
 formerLy so proverbial for their temper and keenness, although 
 no longer of any special repute. 
 
 Amidst the sad entries of the first winter's mortality is this : 
 — " On January 29th, died Rose, wife of Captain Standish." 
 After a while the gallant widower, as tradition tells the tale, 
 fixed upon Priscilla, the daughter of WiUiam Mullins, as a suit- 
 able helpmate to fill up the melancholy void. In paying his 
 addresses, however, he adopted the singular method of employing 
 a substitute, and the result is a notable comment upon the folly 
 of making love by proxy. In the present instance, moreover, 
 the unsuspecting soldier, relying too much on his reputation, was 
 so infatuated as to choose the young and comely John Alden, as 
 the interpreter of his wishes to the fair Priscilla, who it was said 
 was not altogether insensible to the handsome youth. And so it 
 fell out, that as the blushing herald stood stammering forth the 
 proposals of his patron, the lady interrupted him with, — " Pry- 
 thee, John, why do you not speak for yourself? " " Upon that 
 hint he spake," as did Othello to the gentle Desdemoua, and of 
 course with a similar result. The lovers became man and wife, 
 and poor Standish, most probably, a laughing-stock to his neigh- 
 bours. He was not deterred, however, by this rebuff — ^he pro- 
 posed anew, and this time, no doubt, in propria persona, to a 
 certain Barbara, by whom his merits were better appreciated. 
 He left several children, male and female, of whom his daughter 
 Lora died before him, as we learn by the following extract : — 
 
 " My will is, that out of my whole estate, my funeral charges 
 to be taken out, and my body to be buried in a decent manner ; 
 and if I die in Duxburrow, my body to be layed as neare as con- 
 venient to my two dear daughters, Lora Standish, my daughter, 
 and Mary Standish, my daughter-in-law. March 7th, 1655. 
 " By me. 
 
AND DESCENDANTS. 
 
 179 
 
 Of Lora, thus iDeloved, there remains a relic in the Pilgrim 
 Hall at Plymouth, a sampler of excellent workmanship, of 
 ■which the followiug is a portion : — 
 
 L s ^eh * ■SJtiiy.fS?mi as «55'Wi Riej 
 
 * m^:mt ts F.WILL hmnt 
 s^ammm I WML mm 
 
 LOKA STANDISH IS MY NAME. 
 
 LOBD, GUIDE MY HEAET THAT I 
 MAY DOB THY "WILL. ALSO PILL 
 MY HANDS WITH SUCH CONYE- 
 KIENT SKILL AS MAY CONDUCE TO 
 TEBTUE VOID OF SHAME, AND I 
 WILL GIVE THE GLORY TO THY 
 NAME. 
 
 Our next excursion was in an opposite direction to the last. 
 One of the peculiarities of New England is the great number 
 of small lakes, or, as they are vulgarly called, ponds, which 
 beautifully diversify the face of the country. Of these, the 
 township of Plymouth alone contains an immense number. The 
 largest, which bears the name of Billington Sea, is so called 
 after Francis Billington, its discoverer. His father, John, came 
 over with the Pilgrims in the " Mayflower," having shuffled on 
 board at London, nobody knew how. He was " among them, 
 but not of them," being, in truth, the black sheep of the flock, 
 the scapegrace and vexation of the whole company — a turbulent, 
 insubordinate, quarrelsome fellow. Soon after their arrival he 
 
180 FaANCIS BILLINGTON. 
 
 was sentenced to have his neck and heels tied together for. con- 
 tempt of Captain Standish's orders, and at last ended his days on 
 the gallows, for waylaying and shooting a man whom he had 
 warned off his grounds. His sons seem to hare taken after him, 
 and with their wayward mischievous pranks to have caused great 
 annoyances to the colonists. One of them nearly blew up the 
 party of explorers, hy firing off a gun which he had improperly 
 got possession of, in close proximity to a barrel of gunpowder. 
 Another wandered off into the woods to an Indian camp, and a 
 party had to be sent thither in quest of him. The discovery of 
 this piece of water might in some measure compensate for these 
 irregularities. One day Francis clambered up a tree on a hill- 
 top, and having thence descried " a great sea, as he thought, on 
 the ninth of January, went with the master's mate to discover 
 it." To quote the account in Bradford's journal, " They went, 
 three miles, and then came to a great water, divided into two 
 great lakes, the bigger of them five or six miles in circuit, and 
 in it an isle of a cable length square ; the other, three miles in 
 compass, in their estimation. They are fine fresh water, full of 
 fish and fowl. A brook issues from it, — it wiU be an excellent 
 place for us in time. They found seven or eight Indian houses, 
 but not lately inhabited. When they saw the houses they were 
 in some fear, for they were but two persons and one piece." 
 
 One really may envy the feelings with which this truant boy 
 and his companion, stealing through the thick woods, and 
 fearing an Indian, behind every bush, first stood upon the edge 
 of this sequestered sheet of water, surrounded with lonely forests. 
 On a warm afternoon in early spring, I wandered off thither 
 alone. The road ascends the course of the Town Brook, as it 
 comes down from the lake, and which proved as valuable as anti- 
 cipated, its water-power turning several mills. It swarmed in the 
 season with a sort of herring, called Alewives, which proved, as 
 before observed, a valuable resource to the starving colonists. 
 
 In the letter of De Rasiere, descriptive of New Plymouth, is 
 
o 
 o 
 ft: 
 
 o 
 
 I- 
 
BILLINGTON SEA. 181 
 
 a brief notice of this stream, and of the manner in which the 
 fish were taken. " At the south side of the town there flows 
 down a small river of fresh water, very rapid hut shallow, which 
 takes its rise from several lakes in the land ahove, and there 
 empties into the sea ; where, in April and the beginning of May, 
 there come so many herring from the sea which want to ascend 
 that river, that it is quite surprising. This river the English 
 have shut in with planks, and in the middle with a little door, 
 which slides up and down, and at the sides with trellice work, 
 through which the water has its course, but which they can also 
 close with slides. At the mouth they have constructed it with 
 planks, like an eel-pot, with wings, where in the middle is also 
 a sliding door, and with trellice work at the sides, so that 
 between the two [dams] there is a square pool into which the 
 fish aforesaid come swimming in such shoals, in order to get up 
 above where they deposit their spawn, that at one tide there 
 are 10,000 to 12,000 fish in it, which they shut off in the 
 rear at the ebb, and close up the trellices above, so that no 
 more water comes in ; then the water runs out through the 
 lower trellices, and they draw out the fish with baskets, each 
 according to the land he cultivates, and carry them to it, deposit- 
 ing in each hiU three or four fishes ; and in these they plant their 
 maize, which grows as luxuriantly therein as though it were the 
 best manure in the world ; and if they do not lay the fish therein, 
 the maize will not grow, so that such is the nature of the soil." 
 
 The Town Brook is one .of those pretty streams so common 
 in New England ; and its banks, before they were invaded by 
 mills, must have been really exquisitely sylvan. One spot, a 
 deep hollow, by which the stream makes its way through the 
 woods and meadows from Billington Sea towards the village, 
 presented so charming a picture that I could not resist trans- 
 ferring it to my sketch-book. 
 
 Soon afterwards a bye-road went off into the woods, and but 
 for the stacks of timber piled up in places, showing that the axe 
 
182 
 
 THE MAyjLOWEa. 
 
 was busily invading these forest haunts, the solitude would have 
 been complete. There was as yet a wintry dreariness in the scene. 
 The trees had not assumed their verdant livery, and the earth 
 was covered with a deposit of rotten foliage, the tribute of the 
 preceding autumn. So dead and oppressive was the silence that 
 the rustle of the withered leaves, when the wind swept fit- 
 fully through the half-naked boughs, or the sudden snap of a 
 dry branch cracking beneath the footstep, seemed positively 
 startling. Though the gilded snake had crept out of his hole to 
 sun himself, the flowering tribes of the forest had not yet 
 awakened to the warm breath of spring, save one — the pioneer 
 
 of all the rest, the 
 beautiful May- 
 flower — with its 
 delicate roseate 
 blossom and deK- 
 cious scent. This 
 flower, like the 
 primrose in Old 
 England, is the 
 first to start up, 
 ' \ like life from 
 death, amidst the 
 decayed vegeta- 
 tion of the woods, 
 and it is regarded 
 with a similar 
 feeling of afiec- 
 tion. " To secure 
 its earliest blos- 
 som," Mr. EusseU 
 tells us, "is con- 
 sidered a fortunate circumstance among its admii-ers." It is a 
 favourite pastime to make Maying parties in the woods, and 
 
< 
 
 z 
 o 
 
 I- 
 b 
 
SCENEET. 183 
 
 " on any pleasant afternoon in spring time, in the streets of 
 Plymouth, may be seen numerous children and young persons 
 bearing handfuls of these pretty blossoms, which they have 
 collected with choice selection from the neighbouring woods 
 and hills." 
 
 A long avenue through the forest brought me down to a small 
 grassy patch on the brink of the lake. It seemed to be the only 
 opening for miles around its borders, which are everywhere 
 hemmed in with lonely forests. A rude pier juts out into the 
 waters, at which parties embark for the opposite island, " the isle, 
 of a cable length square," mentioned by the discoverers. Upon 
 this stand a boat-house .and a small building, half concealed 
 among the trees, a feivourite place of resort with the parties who 
 come here to make holiday in the summer. 
 
 Were it not for these traces of the presence of man, everything 
 is precisely as in the Pilgrim days. How intensely silent is 
 all around ! The limpid waters of the lake expand for miles, 
 running into distant reaches and bays, and. everywhere the thick 
 forests come down „to its brink, and are reflected in its lucid 
 mirror. The genius of solitude seems to brood over the scene. 
 The eagle, rising from his nest in some tall pine, soars high 
 in air till, dwindled to a speck, he is lost in the distant woods. 
 The wild fowl start from the brake, and dashing down upon the 
 surface, leave a long trail of light across the glassy expanse. 
 The deer, who still haunt these glades, sometimes steal down to 
 the tangled shore, or when pursued by the hunter, plunge into 
 the lake to take refuge in some remote and inaccessible covert. 
 
 Two centuries ago, and the Indian roamed at will through this 
 verdant wilderness. The blue smoke curled up from his wigwam 
 through the forest- trees, and his bark canoe was seen gliding 
 across the lake. It is singular that while Plymouth is the earliest 
 settlement on these shores, so large a tract. in its immediate 
 neighbourhood should be still almost as wild as in the days of 
 the Pilgrims. For hours together you may roam through forests 
 
184 
 
 CAPE COD HAEBODK. 
 
 intersected only by narrow roads made for the timber wagons, 
 and come upon many a small tarn sleeping in the midst of the 
 woody solitude. One day I was driven round Billington Sea 
 and to the top of Monk's Hill, through avenues so narrow that 
 our wheels grazed the trees on either side. Sometimes we sank 
 up to the axle in a swamp, or crossed nervously over some 
 ruinous log bridge. When we attained the summit, what a scene 
 burst upon our view ! The eye wandered over miles of almost 
 unbroken woodland, with glassy lakes peeping through the trees ; 
 and beyond was Plymouth, with its white houses and cheerful 
 fields, the outspread Bay, and the distant shores, extending from 
 Cape Cod nearly all the way to Boston. 
 
 It may well be supposed that a pilgrimage to the Pilgrim 
 localities would have been incomplete without a visit to Cape 
 Cod harbour, in which the " Mayflower " first found shelter 
 from the wintry storms of the Atlantic, The singular con- 
 figuration of this promontory will at once strike the eye by 
 glancing at the annexed map. 
 
 A. — Provincetown. 
 C— East Harbour. 
 
 -Place where the " Mayflower " anchored. 
 -Pamet River. E.— Wellfleet Harhour. 
 
BUEKE ON THE CAPE CODDEES. 185 
 
 Standing out so far from the main line of the cOast, it is one of 
 those out-of-the-way nooks ahnost cut off from the rest of the 
 world. Its physical peculiarities are most remarkable. Sandy 
 downs thinly covered with grass, and thick woods of dwarf 
 timber, with open plains brought under some degree of culti- 
 vation, alternately succeed to each other. Arms of the sea, with 
 extensive salt marshes, perforate the Cape on either side, so that 
 it may be called half land, half water. And the inhabitants 
 are in keeping with their dwelling-place — amphibious animals, 
 9,t home either upon the earth or sea. With a scanty soil and bitter 
 climate, they were soon driven to the ocean for a subsistence, 
 and a more hardy or enterprising race of mariners is nowhere 
 to be met with on the watery element. To this fact Burke, in 
 1774, bore noble testimony in the House of Commons, " No 
 kea but what is vexed by their fisheries — no climate that is nofl 
 mtness of their toils. Neither the perseverance of Holland, norl 
 the activity of France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity ofl 
 English enterprise, ever carried their most perilous mode of hardy 
 industry to the extent to which it has been pm-sued by this recent 
 people — a people who are still in the gristle, and not hardened 
 into manhood." This eulogy was pronounced before the Kevo- 
 lution which severed the United States from the parent country ; 
 and the Cape Codders are no longer " in the gristle," but have 
 attained unto the "perfect man." With the ingenuity of New 
 Engianders in general, they have more strings than one to their 
 bow, and when the fisheries are over, and they return to their 
 homes, resort to shoe-making, farming, and other occupations, to 
 increase their store. 
 
 No railroad as yet penetrates into this singular promontory, 
 and the communication with Provincetown, in Cape Cod har- 
 bour, the spot where the Pilgrims landed, is kept up by stage 
 coaches loosely hung on springs, to stand the jolting over the 
 sandy roads. I, ascended the roof of one of these conveyances, 
 which swayed rather than ran along, as fast as the loose natm-e 
 
 N 
 
186 CAPE COD AND ITS VILLAGES, 
 
 of the highway woiold permit. This coimtry displays a remark- 
 ahle instance of the triumph of skill and perseverance over natural 
 ohstacles. Bald and dreary as was the landscape, nothing 
 could exceed the neatness of the villages, and the comfortable 
 look of the inhabitants. The houses are built of frame-boards — 
 mostly painted white, with green blinds — and the vane upon the 
 barn or outhouse adorned with a prettily carved ship, ia lieu of 
 a weathercock, showing the nautical predilections of its tenant. 
 The handsomest of these dwellings mostly belong to retired 
 sea captains, born upon the Cape, who after a successful career 
 of enterprise, have returned to their native villages to pass the 
 close of their existence. 
 
 The Cape is divided into townships, one of which bears the 
 honoured name of Brewster. A small village with an inn serves 
 as the centre of these districts. At one of these where we 
 stopped to dine, I noticed a hale, ruddy-looking man, who turned 
 out to be the brother of the landlord, and after dinner unrolled — 
 of all things — a family tree, in which the descent of the various 
 branches of his house were traced with all the accuracy of 
 Herald's College. This family I found had emigrated from Eng- 
 land, and were not a little proud of their derivation from the old 
 country. They had thriven too, for the innkeeper on learning 
 that I was an Englishman, took me over a large house not far 
 off, very handsomely furnished, which he said was his private 
 residence, and in which hung up the portrait of his progenitor. 
 Not long after my retiim I saw a paragraph in the newspaper, 
 stating that the brother of this gentleman had presented a chalice 
 to the church of that town in England from whence his ancestors 
 were originally derived. 
 
 At Eastham, a little further on, the stump of an old pear-tree 
 was pointed out to me. This too had been brought from England, 
 and, as the original of aU the pear-trees in this quarter of the 
 world, was justly regarded as a valuable and curious relic. 
 Continuing om- journey, at evening we struck into a region of 
 
CAPE COD — COAST DISASTERS. 187 
 
 wild forests, amidst wMch were several small lakes, or "ponds," 
 to use the local name, with farm houses and small clearings upon 
 their borders, and at dark reached the village of Truro, near the 
 Pamet river, where it became necessary to put up for the night 
 at a small tavern. 
 
 Here we were very near the extremity of the Cape, the sea 
 being but a very short distance on either hand. The coast is 
 bordered with dangerous shoals, and shipwrecks are continually 
 occurring. At the very moment of my arrival, an English vessel 
 was on shore, and two noble hearted inhabitants of Truro had 
 lost their lives in the vain endeavour to rescue the crew. The 
 following column from a Cape Cod newspaper contains the par- 
 » ticulars of this disaster, and. shows moreover how many lives are 
 annually lost upon this perilous coast : — 
 
 "THE DISASTERS OF THE SPRING. 
 
 " There seems to be no end to disasters. Thick weather, 
 easterly gales, and storms, never seemed to prevail with such sad 
 results to vessels at this end of the Cape, as we have witnessed 
 this month. The Danish brig struck on the bar, and came to 
 pieces ; all hands were lost. The marble with which she was 
 loaded lies there in seven feet of water. One of the bodies of the 
 crew, supposed to be the captain, was picked up to-day. The 
 ship ' Inez ' and bark ' Queen,' and two English schooners, one 
 of which came to pieces almost immediately on the landing of 
 the crew, came ashore last week; crew saved. The barque 
 ' Josepha ' came ashore off the head of the meadow this week 
 on Thursday; the screeches of her crew were heard on shore. 
 Out of a crew of eighteen men, only two reached the shore alive. 
 Two men, Jonathan Collins and Daniel Cassity, belonging to 
 Truro, sacrificed their lives in attempting to board her with a 
 line. The body of Mr. Cassity, with six others, was picked up 
 to-day, and brought in and identified. 
 
 " The papers of the barque ' Solway ' were picked up on 
 
 n2 
 
188 SraUKING AND SAD COINCIDENCES. 
 
 Monday. Articles not mentioned in the list of the cargo of the 
 ' Josepha,' are said to be floating in the surf. It is supposed by 
 some that another vessel must have gone to pieces, and aU on 
 board perished. 
 
 " STRIKING AND SAD COINCIDENCES IN THE EVENTS. 
 
 " The first coincidence is, that the ' Josepha ' came ashore not 
 probably five rods from where the Prussian brig was wrecked 
 in 1834. In attempting to save the crew of the latter, Mr. Elisha 
 Paine of North Truro perished, and in attempting to save those 
 of the former, two men from the same part of Truro are now 
 drowned. 
 
 " Another is, that Mr. Cassity was the last of three brothers, 
 all of whom met a similar death. Andrew Cassity was drowned 
 by the upsetting of a boat passing from this harbour to Truro, in 
 the spring of 1846. With him perished Captain Samuel Coan, 
 Daniel Pendergrass, Nath'l Paine, and two lads. Timothy Cas- 
 sity was lost last fall, in the schooner ' E. W. Shaw,' in the 
 Bay. With him perished Thomas Shaw, Aaron W. Snow, Cor- 
 nelius Shaw, John Brensiah, Cornelius Shaw, Jr., Joseph P. 
 Wells, Michael Kich, Jr., and others, in the same vessel. 
 
 " Daniel perishes in attempting to save others from meeting 
 the fate of his brothers, and meets the same himself. He had 
 been married but a few weeks. Mrs. Cassily has often drank of 
 the cup of sorrow in this form. Her father and only brother 
 were drowned in the gale of 1841 ; her brother-in-law was 
 drowned in the gale of October, 1851 ; and now her husband 
 follows them. Thus of the four — the mother and three 
 daughters — three are now widows ; and all made so in the 
 same way. 
 
 " PARTICULARS. 
 
 " Mr. Collins, no doubt, confided in his skill to manage a dory. 
 He had a brave heart. D. D. Smith took his things from his 
 
CAPE COT) — ^FATALITY AT TEUBO. 18& 
 
 pockets to go with Collins, but Cassity pushed him aside, and 
 took his place. They were told by many that they could not 
 live ; but the piercing cries from the wreck moved them to do 
 their best to save those who must perish, unless there were 
 speedy commtmication from the shore. Noble fellows! they 
 will live in the hearts of sailors for ever. Mr. Collins, we regret 
 to say, leaves comparatively nothing to his family. He arose 
 from the tea-table, where he was seated, on the cry of ' A ship 
 ashore, and all hands perishing ! ' and in less than an hour 
 had perished himself. 
 
 " TEUEO'S FATALITY TO DEATH BY DEOWNING. 
 
 " In October, 1841, fifty-seven men of that town perished in 
 one gale. On a Sabbath morning of the summer of 1843, I 
 think, the crew of the schooner ' Commerce/ in attempting to 
 land in a boat, were aU drowned near their homes. In 1845, the 
 whole crew of the vessel commanded by William Hutchings 
 perished on the Grand Banks. In 1846, nearly the whole crew 
 of Captain Samuel Coan perished within hailing distance of the 
 Pond village. Also in 1851, twenty or more lives, it is said, were 
 lost at sea. In looking over the record of deaths in that town, 
 doubtless others will be shown which my memory fails to give. 
 Looking over the record of deaths kept by the Eev. Mr. Damon, 
 during his long ministry in Truro, nothing surprised me more 
 than the vast number of deaths at sea by drowning. Perhaps, 
 on an average, other towns have suffered equally with Truro ; if 
 so, what numbers from this Cape have met with untimely deaths 
 in the sea! "Yours, 
 
 " X. Y. Z. Jr." 
 
 Next morning, after breakfast, I started outside the mail for 
 Cape Cod harbour. The driver, Mr. Collins, was familiar from 
 infancy with every spot on the road, and most obligingly com- 
 
190 CAPE COD — JOURNEY TO PROVTNCETOWN. 
 
 mnmcated all the information in his power — this last stage 
 of the road to Provincetown heing the most curious and 
 interesting in connexion with the Pilgrims. 
 
 We crossed the Pamet river, which it will he perhaps recol- 
 lected was visited by the pioneers on their first excursion. A 
 ridge of hleak and lofty downs succeed, now perfectly hare, but 
 which my companion could well remember as clothed with wood. 
 On our left were the Great Hollow and Old Tom's Hill. Next 
 came Pond village, and we then reached the shores of East 
 Harbour. All these localities were explored by the Pilgrims in 
 the above-mentioned journey of exploration. 
 
 We had now reached the narrowest point of the Cape, here 
 dwindled away to a narrow ridge of sand. The coachman 
 steered his horses down upon the sandy shore of East Harbour — 
 the tide at that time being out, and admitting of his driving 
 over the beach. During the blinding gales and snow storms of 
 winter, it requires no small skill and intrepidity to pUot a four- 
 horse coach where road is none, over this intermixture of hill, 
 sand, swamp, and sea-weed. The waves sometimes break fairly 
 over the narrow ridge, threatening to make a clean breach through 
 it, to carry coach and horses out to sea, and suddenly convert 
 the extremity of the Cape into an island. After driving some 
 distance along the wet shore, we were constrained to strike up 
 into the head of the Cape, which here widens out a little, and 
 consists simply of vast sand-hills, incessantly shifting their 
 shape by the action of the storms. This sand coming in glaring 
 contrast with the deep blue sky above, startlingly reminded me 
 of old camel- journeying across the Arabian desert. There is 
 here no sort of road, and the driver has to work his coach and 
 horses through the yielding substance as he is best able. The 
 sand is planted like the downs of Holland, with a species of reed- 
 grass, which, matting its roots together, tends to prevent the 
 further dispersion of the shifting mass. 
 
 Perhaps a few notions of this very curious place, viewed with 
 
CAPE COD — A SAND OCEAN. 191 
 
 a transatlantic eye by the famous " Penciller hj the Way," will 
 he not unacceptable to our readers. 
 
 " The remainder of the Cape, fcom Truro to Provincetown, is 
 the Venice of New England — as unlike anything else as the city 
 of gondolas is unlike the other capitals of Italy — and deserves 
 the other end of a letter. 
 
 " At the point wliere I resume my sketch of Cape Cod, I could 
 not properly date from ' terra firma^ The sand hills, which 
 compose the last few miles of the way to Provincetown, are per- 
 petually changing shape and place, and — solid enough though 
 they are, to be represented in Congress — the ten-mile extremity 
 of the Cape is subject to a ' ground swell,' for the sea-sickness of 
 which even Congress has thought it worth while to prescribe. 
 I must define this to you more fully, for, literally true as it is, it 
 sounds very much like an attempt at being figurative. 
 
 " Whoever travels between Truro and Provincetown, though 
 he goes up hill and down dale continually, runs his wheel 
 over the virgin sand ; for even the stage-coach, that plies daily 
 backward and forward, leaves no track that lasts longer than an 
 hour. The republican wind, though blowing ever so lightly, 
 commences the levelling of an inequality as soon as raised, and 
 the obedient particles of light sand, by a granular progression 
 scarcely perceptible, are pushed back into the hole they were 
 lifted from, or distributed equally over the surroiuiding surface. 
 Most of the way you are out of sight of the sea, and with this 
 and the constant undulation, there is little or no resemblance to a 
 beach. Indeed, it is like nothing with which we are familiar ; 
 for, down in the bottom of one of those sandy bowls, with not a 
 blade of grass visible, no track or object except what you brought 
 with you, a near and spotless horizon of glittering sand, and the 
 blue sky in one unbroken vault above, it seems like being nested 
 in one of the nebulae of a star — a mere cup of a world, an acre 
 large, and still innocent of vegetation. The swell of a heavy 
 sea, suddenly arrested and' turned to sand, in a series of con- 
 
192 PJiOVINCETOWN. 
 
 tiguous bowls and mountleta — Ibefore a blade of grass had 
 found time to germinate, or the feather of a bird to drop and 
 speck the smooth surface — would be like it, in shape and super- 
 ficies. The form of this sand ocean changes perpetually. Our 
 driver had ' driven stage ' for a year, over the route between 
 Truro and Provincetown, and every day he had picked a new 
 track, finding hills and hollows in new places, often losing his 
 way with the blinding of the flying sand in a high wind, and 
 often obliged to call on his passengers to * dig out ' — a couple of 
 shovels being part of his regular harness. It is difficult to 
 believe, while putting down the foot in this apparently never 
 trodden waste, that, but a few miles either way, there is a town 
 of two thousand inhabitants." 
 
 At length, after passing a tufted thicket which succeeded this 
 desert tract, the bourne of our pilgrimage came in sight. The 
 harbour of Cape Cod, the spot where the battered " Mayflower," 
 freighted with the destinies of a continent, found shelter from the 
 wintry storms of the Atlantic, expanded before us. It is one of 
 the finest on the whole line of coast, in which, as the Pilgrims 
 observe, " a thousand sail of ships may safely ride," being 
 completely land-locked, and the entrance accessible in all winds 
 to vessels of the largest class. The curve of land by which it 
 is formed is appropriately called Longpoint, and at its extremity 
 is a lighthouse. Just within this point, about " three quarters of 
 a mile from the shore," the " Mayflower " came to an anchor. 
 
 The Pilgrims have well described the spot as it appeared 
 to them. The ground upon which Provincetown now stands, 
 was then " covered to the very sea with oaks, pines, juniper, 
 sassafras, and other sweet wood." I found very considerable 
 remains of these forests, as may be judged from the annexed 
 view. The wood is for the most part stunted, though there are 
 not wanting specimens of a much heavier growth of timber, as I 
 ascertained by rambling about the neighbourhood. The Pilgrims 
 remark the whales playing around them, regretting that they 
 
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 ^ 
 
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 'Ti 
 
 
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 O 
 
 
 
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 g- 
 
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 en 
 
 
BNVIKONS OF PROVINCETOWN. 193 
 
 were urifurmslied with tackle for capturing them. This deficiency- 
 has since been amply made up hj their descendants ; since, as 
 Mr. Sumner informs us, " the American whale-fishery commenced 
 at Cape Cod, where it was carried on entirely in boats, which put 
 off whenever a signal was given, by persons on the look-out from 
 an elevated station, that a whale was seen to blow." Occasionally 
 they are even taken close on shore, and " the appearance of a 
 whale in the harbour is the signal for a general stir among the 
 five hundred graceful five-hand boats that line the circling shore 
 of the Bay." The Pilgrims were equally unfortunate in not taking 
 any cod, which is found in abundance outside the harbour, at the 
 season of their arrival. 
 
 Provincetown is the last place upon the Cape. It is almost 
 cut off from the world; the access by land being tedious and 
 difficult, though a small steamer offers an easier communi- 
 cation with Boston during the summer months. Its single street 
 of frame houses is built on sand, and overhung by sand, and 
 approached by sand, and altogether has a wild, singular, out-of- 
 the-way appearance. Yet it is a thriving, enterprising, little 
 place. Its hardy inhabitants are almost all fishermen or sailors, 
 and their fishing boats are perfect models. 
 
 I spent the whole morning in a solitary ramble over the hills 
 and glades behind Provincetown, which are in many places wild 
 as when the adventurous feet of Standish and his companions 
 first explored these recesses. Often losing sight of modem 
 buildings, the sea alone was visible throtigh the fringe of trees, 
 and the scene was the same as when, two centuries ago, the 
 whole of the northern states was a wilderness tenanted only by 
 the roaming Indian, and when the lonely " Mayflower," bearing 
 the seed of a mighty nation — a small band of English exiles, 
 animated by religious enthusiasm — rounded the point, and 
 found shelter for her precious freight in the calm waters of the 
 harbour. 
 
 After fully satisfying my curiosity, I remounted the stage, and 
 
194 PILGKIM HALL. 
 
 retraced my way to Plymouth, sleeping the next night at 
 Wellfleet. After supper, I ohserved a beautiful little girl about 
 twelve, deeply engaged in the perusal of a book, which I asked 
 her to allow me to look at, supposing it might be perhaps 
 " Kobinson Crusoe," or " Sandford and Merton," if not a work 
 of a stUl more edifying tendency. But oh — Shades of the 
 Pilgrims — ^what was my consternation! when, with a beaming 
 countenance, she presented me with the " Mysteries of Paris," 
 exclaiming withal, "that it was a very pretty book, and had 
 only one murder in it ! " To the pure all things are pure, and 
 it was evident this little creature could understand but a very 
 small portion of this demoralizing production ; but the incident 
 showed how wide a revolution in the state dL the community 
 must have happened since the Pilgrim days. 
 
 The deep veneration with which every memorial of the 
 Pilgrims is regarded by their descendants, has led to the erection 
 of a building in which to preserve and hand them down to 
 posterity. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, 1824, the 
 comer-stone, containing historical inscriptions, of a building 
 called " Pilgrim Hall," was laid at Plymouth with religious 
 ceremonies. It is a plain, substantial structure, but the style is 
 inappropriate, the portico being of Grecian Doric; and it is to be 
 hoped that it may be hereafter replaced by an edifice in the 
 architecture of the period. Within is a miscellaneous collection 
 of articles, some having but little connexion with the Pilgrims ; 
 many, however, are genuine and interesting relics, arid the chief 
 of these we have here represented. 
 
 Before entering the Hall, it may be well to observe, that there 
 has existed since 1769 the " Old Colony Club," who met 
 annually to commemorate the landing of their forefathers, and 
 promote social intercourse. They kept up their meetings tiU the 
 stormy period of the Kevolution, when political differences led, 
 in the year 1773, to a dissolution of the Society. To this defunct 
 
^i>r (^ ' 
 
 ■/'//y/U^C ! "! ^ 
 
60VEEN0E WINSLOW. 195 
 
 institution succeeded, in 1820, the "Pilgrim Society," which 
 still continues to go on and prosper. At the annual celebration 
 of these cluhs many of the most eminent men of America have 
 been present, and many an eloquent oration has been delivered. 
 This summer was held a festival of unprecedented attraction 
 and importance. 
 
 Of all those who came in the " Mayflower " there exists but a 
 single portrait, and that one is accordingly regarded with peculiar 
 interest. It represents Edward Winslow, and was painted in 
 1651, during one of his visits to London. As will have abeady 
 appeared from the narrative, he was one of the most influential 
 members of the colony. He was the eldest son of Edward 
 Winslow, of Droitwich, in Worcestershire, by Magdalen, his 
 second wife, and was the eldest of eight children, of whom four 
 brothers also emigrated to New England. We have already 
 narrated how he fell in with the Pilgrims in Holland, and his 
 active share in their adventures and sufferings at Plymouth. He 
 was one of those who survived to witness the successful issue of 
 the plantation, and also that of Massachusetts Bay. Four times 
 he was sent to England as agent for these colonies, and in 1633 
 was chosen governor, to which oflace he was twice aftertpards 
 re-elected. Sympathy in religious principle, and a kindred 
 energy of character, made him a great favourite with Cromwell, 
 and he was thus enabled to render essential service to the colonies. 
 Being appointed by the Protector one of three commissioners to 
 overlook the expedition against the Spaniards in the West 
 Indies, he died at sea, 1655, in the sixtieth year of his age. 
 
 Grovemor Winslow combined the profound piety which dis- 
 tinguished the rest of the Pilgrims, with a knowledge of the 
 world and society, and an indefatigable and practical energy. 
 His writings show that he knew how to defend the colonies 
 against their enemies. He was the first that brought over cattle 
 from England ; and in the Colony records is a curious agree- 
 ment, showing how valuable a piece of properly a cow was then 
 
196 
 
 CURIOUS RELIC OF WINSLOW. 
 
 considered. This agreement, of which we give a fac simile 
 below, is said to be in the handwriting of Winslow himself. 
 
 Lest however it should prove 
 somewhat unintelligible to the 
 reader, a translation of it is 
 here subjoined : — 
 
 " 1627.— Edward Winslow 
 hath sold unto Captain Myles 
 Standish his six shares in the 
 Eed Cow, for and in conside- 
 ration of five pounds ten shil- 
 lings,, to be pd. in come at the 
 rate of six shillings p. bushell, 
 freeing the sd. Edward from all 
 manner of charge belonging to 
 the said shares, during the 
 terme of the nine yeares they 
 are let out to calves, and taking 
 the benefit thereof." 
 
 The cattle thus introduced 
 by Winslow in 1623 consisted 
 of one bull and three heifers, 
 Mr. Russell tells us "beside, that 
 "in 1627, after the Pilgrims 
 had bought out the interest of 
 the merchant adventurers of 
 London, to be paid in annual 
 instalments of 200?., the cattle 
 on hand, which had increased 
 to twelve in number, were di- 
 vided in the following manner : 
 — Twelve equal lots were made, 
 consisting of thirteen persons 
 to each lot, the names of which 
 
 'l^^H,^ 
 
 
HKST CATTLE-SHOW IN NEW ENGLAND. 197 
 
 are all recorded. TheSe lots were drawn for by the parties con- 
 cerned, as was the usual Pilgrim practice, — the whole number of 
 shareholders being 156, affording the first recorded ' Cattle Show 
 in New England.'' " 
 
 The original of the portrait is in the room of the Massa- 
 chusetts Historical Collection at Boston, where is also preserved 
 Winslow's substantial oak chair, brought over from England. 
 
 On the back is the inscription, " Cheapside, London, 1614." 
 Edward Winslow may not inaptly be denominated the head 
 of the emigration, as Myles Standish was its right hand. Upon 
 these two men appears to have devolved most of the active ex- 
 ternal service of the colony, — Winslow's province being that of 
 negotiating its business ; whUe to the valiant Myles was entrusted 
 its military defence. 
 
198 
 
 WINSLOW'S ATTTOGKATH. 
 
 In addition to Winslow's old oak chair, we subjoin also his 
 autograph and coat of arms. 
 
 ^3 l^L^SSSL. ^-^ 
 
 / / (^3 5 
 
 ■.-ZM^/lp 
 
 IP 
 
 ■J L^yia^ 
 
 jM- 
 
 His first wife was among the yictims to the first winter, 
 and he soon after married Susanna, widow of William White, — 
 the first marriage celebrated in New England. Like Standish, 
 he called his estate Careswell, after the family seat of his 
 ancestors in England, He left several children, of whom several 
 were honourahly distinguished — ^his only living descendant is 
 Mr. Isaac Winslow, of Boston. 
 
 The Hall also contains besides portraits of Josiah Winslow, 
 first native governor of the Old Colony, and his lady. The 
 members of the Winslow family are stiU numerous and respect- 
 able in England, though none are now to be found settled at 
 Droitwich — nor could I hear of any such place as Careswell at 
 present in the neighbourhood of that town. 
 
 The careful provident spirit of Winslow is well shown in his 
 directions to a friend intending to emigrate to Plymouth, and we 
 gather also some curious particulars as to the state of the colony. 
 " Now, because I expect your coming unto us, with other of our 
 friends whose company we much desire, I thought good to 
 advertise you of a few things needfal. Be careful to have a good 
 bread-room to put your biscuits in. Let your cask for beer and 
 
LETTEa OF WINSLOW'S. 
 
 199 
 
 water be iron iDoimd, for the first tire, if not more. Let not your 
 meat Ibe dry-salted ; none can better do it than the sailors. Let 
 your meal be so hard trod in your cask that you shall need an 
 adz or hatchet to work it out with. Trust not too much on us 
 for com at this time, for by reason of this last company that 
 came, depending wholly upon us, we shall have little enough till 
 harvest. Be careful to come by some of your meal to spend by 
 the way, — it will much refresh you. Build your cabins as open 
 as you can, and bring good store of clothes and bedding with 
 you. Bring every man a musket or fowling-piece. Let your 
 piece be long in the barrel, and fear not the weight of it, for 
 most of our shooting is from stands. Bring juice of lemons, 
 and take it fasting, it is of good use. For hot waters, aniseed 
 water is the best, but use it sparingly. If you bring anything 
 for comfort in the country, butter or sallet oil, or both, is very 
 good. Our Indian com, even the coarsest, maketh as pleasant 
 meal as rice, therefore spare that unless to spend by the way. 
 Bring paper and linseed oil for your windows, with cotton yam 
 for your lamps. Let your shot be most for big fowls, and bring 
 store of powder and shot." 
 
 Here we find that in this severe 
 climate oiled paper was at the first 
 the only casement the colonists 
 could afford. By degrees they 
 attained to the luxury of glass, and 
 one of the early latticed window 
 panes is preserved among the curi- 
 osities of Pilgrim Hall. 
 
 On the wall is hung a large and efiective picture, representing 
 the " Landing of the Pilgrims." We cannot here particularize 
 all the curiosities and records, — which will be found correctly 
 enumerated in Mr. Eussell's Guide, — ^but proceed to notice the 
 most characteristic objects. 
 
 At the end of the Hall stand two old chairs, originally brought 
 
200 
 
 JOHN CARVER. 
 
 from England in the " Mayflower."" One of them belonged to 
 John Carver. 
 
 He vras a deacon of the church in Holland, one of their most 
 confidential agents, having, in concert with Rohert Cushman, 
 been charged to negotiate with the merchant adventurers, and 
 upon him as the first governor of Plymouth must have devolved 
 a serious responsibility during the most trying period ,of the 
 colony. 
 
 There is an inlaid dressing-case belonging to William White, 
 one of the Pilgrims, whose wife, Susanna, gave birtli on board 
 the " Mayflower," in Cape Cod harbour, to a son named 
 
 ry 
 
 the first-born of the Pilgrims in New England, and who lived to 
 the great age of eighty-three. He petitioned to be allowed a 
 
MAHSKPIELD. 
 
 201 
 
 portion of land, in respect that he was " the first of the English 
 bom in these parts," and the validity of the claim was admitted 
 hy the grant of two hundred acres. Of Peregrine there exists an 
 interesting memorial in an old apple-tree, planted by him upon his 
 lot near Marshfield, and which still produces fruit. Of this a cut 
 is given, copied by permission from Mr. Eussell's " Memorials." 
 
 It was at this estate ot Marshfield, which had become his pro- 
 perty, that the great statesman, Daniel Webster, breathed his last. 
 The Fuller cradle, of which, by permission of Mr. Russell, we 
 
202 THE FULLER CBADLE. 
 
 also give a representation, is another interesting relic of the 
 "first comers." It is now in the possession of Jacot Noyes, 
 Esq., whose wife is a lineal descendant of Dr. Samuel Fuller, 
 physician, as he may he called, to the Pilgrims, and one of those 
 who came over in the " Mayflower." His name is found among 
 those who subscribed the compact before landing at Cape Cod. 
 His wife was left behind, but subsequently came over in the 
 " Anne." Fuller was a deacon of the church, and remarkable 
 for his piety as well as skill in his profession. He must have 
 been among the colonists during the fearful mortality of the first 
 winter, and it is no improbable supposition that many of the 
 survivors partly owed their lives to his endeavours. He appears 
 to have obtained a high reputation. He was sent by the 
 goremor to heal the sick among Weston's company, and after- 
 wards to Boston, to alleviate the sufferings of Winthrop's 
 colonists. He died in 1633 of an infectious fever, and his 
 loss was much regretted by his fellow Pilgrims. This was 
 his family cradle, and there is a tradition that it was also used to 
 rock little Peregrine White, the first-bom of the New England 
 colonists. It is a good substantial article, and ornamental 
 Avithal. Like the old-fashioned furniture of the mother country, 
 it was intended to be handed down from one generation to another. 
 Side by side with Governor Carver's chair is one that be- 
 longed to the venerable elder, 
 
 iitfm irM 
 
 cT 
 
 His biogTaphy has been given until his arrival at Plymouth. 
 He was the oldest of the Pilgrims, being fifty-six when he emi- 
 grated to America. As elder of the church he was chosen, in the 
 absence of Eobinson, to act as his substitute until their pastor 
 should be able to join them, — a duty he undertook with no less 
 zeal than modesty. His was a life of remarkable vicissitudes. 
 
WILLIAM BKEWSTER. 203 
 
 Well torn and educated, and accustomed to the court, he cast in 
 his lot with a despised hody of sectaries, willing, like the great 
 Apostle, to " spend and be spent " in the service of his brethren. 
 He not only guided and directed them like a father, but largely 
 assisted them with his estate ; and when they removed to America 
 — though sinking into the vale of years, and from early habits 
 less able to endure hardship — " he was," to quote the beautiful 
 memoir of his friend Bradford, " no way unwilling to bear his 
 burden with the rest, living without bread or corn many months 
 together, having many times nothing but fish, and often wanting 
 that also, and drinking nothing but water for many years 
 together; yea, until within five or six years of his death. 
 And yet he lived by the blessing of God in health until very old 
 age, and besides that he would labour with his hands in the 
 fields as long as he was able. Yet, when the Church had no 
 other minister he taught twice every Sabbath, and that botli 
 powerfully and profitably, to the great contentment of the hearers 
 and their comfortable edification. Yea, many were brought to God 
 by his ministry. He did more in their behalf in a year than 
 many that have their hundreds a-year do in all their lives." 
 
 Brewster lived to the great age of eighty. " He died in his 
 bed in peace, in the midst of his friends, who mourned and 
 wept over him, and ministered what help and comfort they could 
 unto him, and he again recomforted them whilst he could. His 
 sickness was not long. Until the last day thereof he did not 
 wholly keep his bed. His speech continued until somewhat 
 more than half a day before his death, and then failed him ; and 
 about nine or ten of the clock that evening he died without any 
 pang at all. A few hours before he drew his breath short,, and 
 some few minutes before his last he drew his breath long, as a 
 man fallen into a sound sleep, without any pangs or gaspings, 
 and so sweetly departed this life unto a better." 
 
 One cannot behold such mouldering, but precious memorials of 
 men like these, who approached so closely the apostolical model, 
 
 2 
 
204 
 
 BEilWSTER'S CHAIR. 
 
 without venerating their memory, and looking back to the early- 
 days of faith and love and suffering, amidst which their lot was 
 cast. In the words of a quaint old poem, 
 
 " Full humble were their meals, 
 Their dainties very few, 
 'Twas only ground-nuts, clams, or eels. 
 When this old chair was new. 
 
 " Their greeting very soft, 
 Good morrow, very kind. 
 How sweet it sounded oft 
 Before we were refined. 
 Humility their care. 
 Their failings very few. 
 My heart ! how kind their manners were 
 When this old chair was new." 
 
WILLIAM BEADFORD. 205 
 
 It is to be regretted that the Pilgrim Hall contains no 
 memorial of one of the chiefest founders of the colony, 
 
 WK 
 
 ^rd^hA. 
 
 His origin and career until chosen as governor in the room of 
 Carver, "iiave been traced in the course of our narrative, often 
 indeed in his own words. So highly did he approve himself in 
 this new office, that he was annually reelected for thirty years, 
 until his death, excepting three years, when Winslow, and two 
 when Prince, relieved him. He lived almost through the whole 
 period of the English commonwealth, and saw other flourishing 
 colonies — the offspring of his own — ^rising around him, and 
 forming the germ of an immense empire, by all of whom he was 
 regarded with the love and veneration of a patriarch. 
 
 Bradford's first wife was a certain Dorothy May, who accom- 
 panied him to America, but never landed, being drowned by the 
 upsetting of a boat, while the " Mayflower " lay at Cape Cod, 
 during his absence on the first journey of exploration. He 
 subsequently married a Mrs. AUce Southworth, a widow, who 
 came over to Plymouth on his invitation to become his wife. 
 Mr. Hunter conjectures, with every appearance of reason, that 
 the family of which this lady became a member, were the 
 Southworths living in the neighbourhood of Scrooby, some of 
 whom were members of Brewster's church. There is a tradition 
 in New England of an old attachment between Bradford and 
 Mrs. Ahce, before he left England, but that their xmion was 
 opposed on the ground of inequality of position. Both of them 
 therefore contracted other alliances — ^but becoming at length 
 widow and widower — were finally enabled to indulge their old 
 but unforgotten flame. So that notwithstanding their strictness 
 and severity of life, the romance of the heart sometimes found 
 a lurking-place in the bosom of these austere men. Mrs. 
 
206 bradfoed's works, 
 
 Southworth's maiden name is generally believed to have been 
 Middleton. Judge Davis indeed was informed by a certain Mrs. 
 White, an old lady whose mind was richly stored with anecdotes of 
 the first comers, that Mrs. Alice's original name was Eayner, and 
 that she was sister to John Kayner, who was for some time settled 
 as a minister in England, but becoming puritan and separatist, 
 he joined the colony at New Plymouth, and was there pastor 
 from 1636 to 1654, while both Bradford and Brewster were 
 living. These Eayners, also, Mr. Hunter has ascertained to have 
 been a family of good standing and repute, who had a right to 
 coat armour, at East Drayton, in Nottinghamshire, not far from 
 the centre of the church at Scrooby. Alice survived her 
 husband, and attained to a great age, as we thus learn from the 
 Old Colony Eecords :— " On the 26th March, 1670, Mistres Allice 
 Bradford, seni'r, changed this life for a better, haveing attained 
 to fourscore years of age, or theraboutsl Shee was a godly 
 matron, and much loued while shee Hved, and lamented, tho' 
 aged, when she died, and was honorably interred on the 29th 
 day of the month aforesaid : at New Plimouth : " probably not 
 far from the obelisk which marks the burial-place of her husband. 
 Besides his active services to the colony while living, Bradford 
 rendered it one more imperishable by his writings, which form 
 the most authentic materials for its history. These are, 1. "Some 
 Account of the Religious Community of which he was member 
 before its removal to Holland, in 1608, and from thence tiU it 
 was transferred to America, in 1620 ;" 2. "A Diary of Occur- 
 rences during the first year after their landing, in which Edward 
 Winslow, another of the emigrants, had a share with him ; " 
 3. "A Dialogue between Young People of the Colony and 
 Ancient People, describing the causes which led to the emi- 
 gration ; " and finally, a " Biographical Account of William 
 Brewster." Only the second of these works was printed in 
 England, in the year 1622, but the others remained in manuscript, 
 and have been liberally quoted from, and sometimes embellished 
 
OLD B3LE AND SPINNING- WHEEL. 
 
 207 
 
 hj Morton, Prince, and Hutchinson. They have at length been 
 printed, with valuable notes by Mr. Alexander Young. Their 
 style is frequently almost scriptural in simplicity and expres- 
 siveness, as maybe judged of from the many quotations scattered 
 through these pages, which have been drawn up mainly from 
 this authentic source. 
 
 To conclude our catalogue of Pilgrim relics, we select an old 
 Dutch Bible with studs and clasps, 
 
 and a curious spinning-wheel, no- doubt also imported from the 
 " Old Country" by some of the first-comers. 
 
208 " OUB FOREFATHEKS' SONG." 
 
 Nothing can well give a Kvelier idea of the hardships en- 
 dured by them, than an' old ballad, called " Our Fore&thers' 
 Song," taken down from the lips of an old lady, aged ninety- 
 four, in the year 1767 ; thus going back almost to the very days 
 of the Pilgrims, and which is by no means deficient in humour : — 
 
 " The place where we live is a wilderness wood. 
 Where grass is much wanted that's fraitful and good ; 
 Our mountains and hills, and our valleys below. 
 Are commonly cover'd with frost and with snow. 
 
 " And when the north-west wind with violence blows. 
 Then every man pulls his cap over his nose; 
 But if anfa so hardy, and will it withstand. 
 He forfeits a finger, a foot, or a hand. 
 
 " Our clothes we brought with us are apt to be torn. 
 They need to be clouted soon after they are worn; 
 But clouting our garments, they hinder us nothing, 
 Clouts double are warmer than single whole clothing. 
 
 " If fresh meat be wanted to fill up oar dish. 
 We have carrots and turnips whenever we wish ; 
 And if we've a mind for a delicate dish, 
 We go to the clam-haak, and there we catch fish. 
 
 " For pottage, and puddings, and custards and pies. 
 Our pumpkins and parsnips are common supplies ; 
 We have pumpkin at morning, and pumpkin at noon. 
 If it was not for pumpiin, we should be undoon." 
 
 Chm Chowder and Pumphin, or as here nasally pronounced 
 "Piinken" pies, are, albeit unknown to an English palate, 
 delicacies still held in high estimation throughout New England, 
 and truly, when well prepared, not altogether without reason. 
 
 The state of feeling among the colonists, soon after they had 
 taken root in the soil, may be judged of by referring to the 
 discourse delivered by Robert Cushman, during his short stay of 
 a month at Plymouth. He had been a member of the Leyden 
 Church, and particularly active in the service of his brethren. 
 Such was his trustworthiness and ability, that he had been twice 
 
aOBEET CTJSHMAN- 209 
 
 sent over from Leyden to negotiate with the Virginia Company ; 
 and when the voyage was decided on he went over a third time 
 to receive the money of the Merchant adventurerers, hire 
 ships, and make all the necessary arrangements for the voyage, 
 set sail with the rest on hoard the " Speedwell ; " and when that 
 vessel was declared imseaworthy, remained hehind to watch over 
 the scattered circle, with whom he afterwards came over to 
 Plymouth in the " Fortune." He remained only a month, and 
 returned in the same vessel ; but that short period had sufficed 
 to show him that much discontent had arisen from the hard con- 
 tract with the " Merchant adventurers," and that the settlers 
 were anxious no longer to lahour in common, hut to divide the 
 inheritance between them, and work each man in his own behalf. 
 To allay these discontents, he delivered a discourse, and left a 
 memorial exhorting his brethren to accommodate themselves 
 without repining to their actual situation, and to bear each 
 other's burdens in the spirit of brotherly love. 
 
 " It wonderfully encourageth men in their duties, when they see 
 the burthen equally borne, but when some withdraw themselves 
 and retire to their own particular ease, pleasure, or profit, what 
 heart can men have to go on in their business ? When men are 
 come together to lift some weighty piece of timber, or vessel, if 
 one stand still and do not lift, shall not the rest be weakened and 
 disheartened ? WUl not a few idle drones spoil the whole stock of 
 laborious bees ? So one idle belly, one murmurer, one complainer, 
 one self-lover, will weaken and dishearten a whole colony. Great 
 matters have been brought to pass where men have cheerfully, 
 as with one heart, hand, and shoulder, gone about it, both in 
 wars, buildings, and plantations ; but, where every man seeks 
 himself, all coming to nothing. 
 
 " Now, brethren, I pray you, remember yourselves, and know 
 that you are not in a retired, monastical course, but have given 
 your names and promises one to another, and covenanted here to 
 cleave together in the service of God and the King. What then 
 
210 PLYMOUTH AS IT WAS. 
 
 must you do ? May you live as retired liermits, and look over 
 nobody ? Nay, you must seek still the wealth of one another, 
 and inquire, as David, How liveth such a man? How is he 
 clad? How is he fed? He is my brother, my associate; we 
 ventured our lives together here, and had a hard brunt pf it ; and 
 we are in league together. Is his labour harder than mine? 
 Surely I will ease him. Hath he no bed to lie on ? Why, I 
 have two; I'll lend him one. Hath he no apparel? Why, 
 I have two suits; I'll give him one of them. Eats he coarse 
 fare, bread and water; and I have better? Why, surely, 
 we will part stakes. He is as good a man as I, and we are 
 bound each to other; so that his wants must be my wants, 
 his sorrows my sorrows, his sickness my sickness, and his 
 welfare my welfare; for I am as he is. And such a sweet 
 sympathy were excellent, comfortable. Yea, heavenly, and is 
 the maker and conserver of churches and commonwealths, and 
 where this is wanting, ruin comes on quickly." 
 
 In the letter of Dr. Rasieres, discovered by the persevering 
 research of Mr. Brodhead, in the library at the Hague, we 
 have a most lively picture of the state of Plymouth in 1627. 
 The houses, he tells us, were constructed of hewn planks, 
 with gardens inclosed behind, and at the side with boards. To 
 prevent surprise, each had beside a defensive stockade, and there 
 were three wooden gates at the extremities of the streets. In 
 the centre, on the cross- street, stood the Governor's house, before 
 which was a square enclosure, upon which four patereros were 
 mounted so as to flank along the streets. Upon Burial or Fort- 
 hill, was a large square house, with a flat roof, made of thick 
 sawn planks, stayed with oak beams, upon the top of which they 
 had six cannons, four or five pounders, which commanded aU the 
 neighbourhood. The lower part of this fort served as a church, 
 to which on Sundays they repaired in perfect military order. 
 They were assembled by beat of drum, each with his musket or 
 firelock, in front of the Captain's door. They have their cloaks 
 
COSTUME OS THE PILGEfflS. 
 
 211 
 
 on, and place themselTes in order three atreast, and are led by a 
 sergeant without beat of dmm. Behind comes the GoTemor in 
 a long robe ; beside him, on the right hand, comes the preacher 
 with his cloak on ; and on the left hand the Captain with his 
 side-arms and cloak on, and with a small cane in his hand. 
 Then they marched in good order, each setting down his 
 arms beside him. And thus they are on their guard night 
 and day." 
 
 The annexed iUusti'ation will probably give a very tolerable 
 presentment of the general costume of the Pilgrims, varying 
 slightly according to the station and means of the wearer. 
 
 In one respect, and perhaps one only, we find the Pilgrims 
 less rigid in their habits than their descendants. In the list of 
 their preparations for the voyage appears a plentifiil allowance of 
 beer, wine, and spirits ; nor do we ever find any notices leading 
 us to suppose that any evil consequences had resulted from the 
 use ot these creature-comforts, so long as they had them at 
 command. From this they were preserved by their general self- 
 command, dictating the " rule of not too much, by temperance 
 taught." Like the Apostle, they well knew how " to abound. 
 
n 
 
 212 CIVIL AND KELiaiOUS INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 and how to suffer need;" they refused not the cheerful glass 
 when they had it, hut could content themselves with cold water 
 from the spring if reduced to that simple beverage. In the 
 Massachusetts colony we find that the same indulgences were 
 allowed, though laws were made to restrain excess in this instance, 
 as also in apparel. Tea and coffee even, in so many instances sup- 
 plying the want of a more potent stimulant, were at that time un- 
 known. At the present day the " Old Colony" is hecome a strictly 
 teetotal community, and the sale of all intoxicating drinks is 
 prohibited. That ardent spirits, which have been largely increased 
 in production and consumption since the days of the Pilgrims, 
 both in England and America, are among the principal curses of 
 both countries, is certain, and their total prohibition would be 
 perhaps the greatest blessing that could be bestowed on both ; 
 but the inclusion of beer and wine was certainly carrying things 
 to an extreme point, from which a reaction must eventually take 
 place. All agree, however, that the passing of this measure has 
 had a most beneficial, though probably only temporary influence 
 upon the well-being of the people at large. 
 
 Regarding the civil and religious institutions of the Pilgrims, 
 it is hardly necessary to add anything to what will already have 
 appeared in the course of the narrative. It may be briefly 
 summed up in the words of Robertson — " The privilege of pro- 
 fessing their own opinions, and of being governed by laws of 
 their own framing, afforded consolation to the colonists amidst 
 aU their dangers and hardships. The constitution of their church 
 was the same with that which they had established in Holland. 
 Their system of civil government was founded on those ideas of 
 the natural equality among men, to which their ecclesiastical . 
 policy had accustomed them. Every free man who was a member 
 of the church was admitted into the supreme legislative body. 
 The laws of England were adopted as the basis of their juris- 
 prudence, though with some diversity in the punishments in- 
 flicted upon crimes, borrowed from the Mosaic institutions. The 
 
CHABACTER OF THE PILGKIMS. 213 
 
 executive power was vested in a governor and some assistants, 
 who were elected annually ty the memhers of the legislative 
 assembly. During some years they appear not to have acquired 
 right by any legal conveyance to the territory which they had 
 occupied. At length they obtained a grant of property from the 
 council of the New Plymouth Company, but were never incorT 
 porated as a body politic by Eoyal Charter. Unlike aU the 
 other settlements in America, this colony must be considered 
 merely as a voluntary association, held together by the tacit 
 consent of its members, to recognise the authority of laws, and 
 submit to the jurisdiction of magistrates, framed and chosen by 
 themselves. In this state it remained an independent but feeble 
 community until it was united to its more powerful neighbour of 
 Massachusetts Bay." 
 
 This representation is undoubtedly correct, but it should not 
 be forgotten that these first emigrants were the pioneers of the 
 wilderness, and that their energy and endurance, by affording a 
 stimulus and example to their suffering brethren in England, led 
 in fact to the foundation of all the New England colonies. 
 
 In estimating the character and work of the Pilgrim Fathers, 
 we must observe a middle course between the fond and exagge- 
 rated estimate of some, and the malevolent depreciation of others. 
 We must judge them according to the times in which they lived, 
 and the influences by which they were moulded. And after 
 making every deduction, it must be owned that there was a 
 spiritual and moral grandeur about these men that raises them 
 far above the level of common humanity. Their motives and 
 feelings were the highest by which our nature can be actuated. 
 Believing themselves called to act as a peculiar people, zealous for 
 the glory' of God, their whole ideas were shaped and moulded in 
 harmony with this leading idea. They believed that their course 
 was directed by an all-wise Providence, and received its dispen- 
 sations, whether good or evil, with the same confiding faith and 
 childlike resignation. Thus strengthened, they were often raised 
 
214 FREEDOM FROM BIGOTRY. 
 
 by religious enthusiasm above perils that -would have appalled 
 others whose motives were less lofty, and whose confidence less 
 deeply rooted. Their lives were a practical exemplification of 
 their faith. They loved God supremely, and each other as the 
 children of God. They displayed the strictest conscientious- 
 ness, and the most anxious regard to carry out the precepts of 
 that religion which was the guide and pole star of their lives. 
 
 There is one feature in the conduct of the Pilgrims which 
 can hardly fail to strike us, in tracing the preceding narrative of 
 their actions. For men who had undergone so much on account 
 of their opinions, there is a singular absence of harshness and 
 bigotry in their character. The pugnacious controversial element 
 seems to have been purged out of them — the predominant quality 
 of their existence to have been tenderness and brotherly love. 
 They were gentle, humble-minded, broken-hearted men, who 
 had passed through the furnace of aflKction, and, like unto their 
 Divine Master, had become more perfect through sufierings. 
 
 The PUgrims, too, came of an excellent stock. The soundest, 
 if not the noblest, of English blood flowed in their veins. Their 
 leaders were men of conduct and education, and the commoner 
 sort possessed the best of the national characteristics, the firm 
 dauntless courage, persevering stubborn energy, the practical good 
 sense that distinguish the Anglo-Saxon race. Such qualities 
 exalted by religion^ enabled them to triumph over the severest 
 trials, and to lay the foundations of a mighty nation. 
 
 It may be justly observed, that although the Pilgrims contended 
 for religious liberty as they understood it, they had very little 
 idea of the legitimate consequences of their own principles, or 
 foresaw that they were laying the foundation of that unlimited 
 freedom of opinion to which, both for good and evil, America is 
 henceforth committed. Could these venerable men rise from their 
 graves on Burial-Hill, and look around upon the place they 
 founded, would they not rub their eyes with astonishment and 
 horror to behold a dozen different places of worship, belonging 
 
TKUE TOLERATION UNKNOWN. 215 
 
 to as many different sects ! They would see the building where 
 they worshipped God after the strictest tenets of Calvin tenanted 
 by the professors of the milder creed of Servetus ; Episcopalians, 
 from the tyranny of whose forefathers they fled, Presbyterians, 
 Baptists, and every shade of religionists, " fine by degrees and 
 beautifally less," till tapering off into a merely nominal Chris- 
 tianity — subsisting side by side, if not in perfect harmony, at 
 least on terms of the most perfect equality. But the true prin- 
 ciples of toleration were altogether unknown in those days, and 
 it should be no reproach to the Pilgrims themselves that, living 
 in an age of sectarian animosity, sharpened by bitter perse- 
 cution, they should not have been altogether untinctured by the 
 narrow spirit prevailing around them. 
 
 Since the period of its settlement, Plymouth, as before 
 observed, has made comparatively but little progress in wealth 
 and population. It remains a backward, and, to American tastes, 
 rather dull sort of a place, which lives upon the reputation of 
 its first founders. Yet there is about it an air of quiet respecta- 
 bility, and many families, some of whom boast a connexion with 
 the Pilgrims, are in easy and rather affluent circumstances. In 
 this rural village life seems to glide away more smoothly than 
 in the agitated vortex of the great commercial cities. 
 
 That the men of Plymouth have not degenerated from the 
 courage and conduct of their ancestors, the proof may be given in 
 some anecdotes closely connecting them with two of the most 
 illustrious of our English warriors — Nelson and WoHe. 
 
 When Nelson was cruising off the American coast during the 
 war of the Revolution, he captured a small schooner belonging to 
 Plymouth, commanded by Nathaniel Carver, but belongiag to 
 Mr. Davis of Boston. The vessel was made a tender. Carver stiU 
 remaining as captain, and in that capacity rendered such essential 
 services, that he soon ingratiated himself with the generous 
 Nelson. Perceiving this, Carver went on board with his 
 owner, and carried with him a present of apples. He foimd 
 
216 NELSON AND WOLFE. 
 
 Nelson in the best possible humour ; he ordered the apples to be 
 poured out on deck for the sailors to scramble after, then paid 
 for them, and finally returned the schooner to her Captain with 
 the following testimonial, honourable to both parties alike. 
 
 " These are to certify that I took the schooner ' Harmony,' 
 Nathaniel Carver, master, belonging to Plymouth ; but on account 
 of his good services, have given him up his vessel again. 
 
 « Dated on board his Majesty's ship ' Albemarle,' 17th August, 
 1782, in Boston Bay. 
 
 A no less interesting anecdote of Wolfe is extracted from 
 " Notes on Plymouth," by the late Samuel Davis, Esq. of that 
 town, and published in the Massachusetts Historical Collection, 
 1745. 
 
 " 1745. This year a fall company was raised in Plymouth 
 for the expedition against Louisbourg; and it is remarked, 
 they were the first for that service, who appeared at Boston, 
 whence they embarked, and served with credit on that memo- 
 rable occasion. 
 
 " The captain of this company, Sylvanus Cobb, continued in 
 Nova Scotia, where he had the command of a Government sloop; 
 and in 1758 was selected by General Monckton to conduct 
 General Wolfe to a reconnoitre of the fortress, previous to its 
 second capture. As they sailed into the harbour no one was 
 allowed to stand upon deck, but Cobb at the helm, and Wolfe in 
 
CONCLUSION, 217 
 
 the fore-slieets, making observations, while the shot were flying 
 around. The latter ohserved, he had approached as far as he 
 wished for his purposes. Captain Cobb, however, made yet 
 another tack, and as they hove about, Wolfe exclaimed with 
 approbation, ' Well, Cobb ! I shall never doubt but you will 
 carry me near enough.' This anecdote of the hero of the Plains 
 of Abraham we give as well attested. 
 
 "There was something, it is said, in Captain Cobb, which 
 gained the esteem of the great man we have named. He returned 
 to Plymouth for his family, and removed with them to Nova 
 Scotia. He afterwards accompanied the expedition to Havana 
 in 1762, and died there. The frankness and affability of General 
 Wolfe have been often mentioned by those who saw him on this 
 occasion ; striking traits of the true heroick mind in all ages, and 
 in all countries." 
 
 Upon the soil of New England still exists, and may it ever 
 do so, despite the temporary alienation engendered by the Eevo- 
 lution, a hearty attachment to the " Old Country," and a pride 
 in being sprung from her heroic soil. All that is excellent in 
 English habits, feelings, and household virtues, is more warmly 
 appreciated and exemplified than elsewhere in the American 
 Eepublic. The same love of liberty and hatred of oppression 
 bums inextinguishable in the breasts of both people. These 
 feelings are finely expressed in the noble lines of a New England 
 poet, with a fervent echo of which let us conclude these notices. 
 
 "Though ages long have passed 
 Since our fathers left their home, 
 Their pilot in the blast, 
 O'er untraveU'd seas to roam — 
 Yet lives the blood of England in our veins, 
 And shall we not proclaim 
 That blood of honest fame 
 Which no tyranny can tame 
 
 By its chains ? 
 P 
 
218 CONCLUSION. 
 
 " While the manners, while the arts, 
 Tliat mould a nation's soul, 
 Still cling around our hearts. 
 Between, let oceans roll, 
 Our joint communion breaHng with the sun. 
 Yet still from either beach. 
 The voice of blood shall reach. 
 More audible than speech, — 
 
 We are one." 
 
 THE END. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 SKKTCH OF THE PURITAN EMIGEATION THAT FOLLOWED IN 
 THE TRACK OF THE PILGRIMS. 
 
 P2 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 The task of tracing the history of what are properly called the 
 " Pilgrim Fathers," is now ended. From this period, when the 
 colony had taken firm root in the American soU, its chronicles no 
 longer present that individual interest which has attended its origin and 
 early struggles, but they are almost lost in the general records of 
 American history. Yet the annals of these founders of the colony of 
 New Plymouth would be incomplete without some slight notice of the 
 more powerful one of Massachusetts, and its different off-shoots, all of 
 which orginated in this single stock. 
 
 The same causes that had driven forth the Plymouth Pilgrims from 
 their native land, still continued in active operation. The struggle 
 between the Prelates and the Puritans only gathered fresh intensity 
 after the accession of Charles I., and increasing numbers of the latter 
 party, exposed to the severities of Archbishop Laud, were anxious for 
 an asylum amidst the forests of the new world. The good report con- 
 tained in many private letters from the settlers at New Plymouth, and 
 especially the publication of Bradford and Winslow's journal, and of 
 Winslow's " Good News from New England," now induced this body of 
 men, standing as it were tip-toe on the threshold of their native shores, 
 to form associations for repairing to the land of promise, where they 
 might worship God after their own consciences without fear of the 
 Star Chamber and the Court of High Commission. 
 
 Several attempts, Uke that of Weston, had been made to plant 
 colonies in the neighbourhood of Plymouth; but, founded in selfish or 
 mercenary views, and carried out by men of a low stamp of character. 
 
222 APPENDIX. 
 
 they had hitherto proved abortive. It required a more powerful 
 motive and a nobler class of men to grapple with the toils and perils of 
 the wilderness. The colony of Massachusetts, like that of New Ply- 
 mouth, had its origin in religious enthusiasm. 
 
 The first steps towards its establishment had indeed been already 
 taken by the Plymouth settlers, who had, as related, explored Massa- 
 chusetts Bay, and with prophectic sagacity regretted that they had not 
 availed themselves of its superior advantages. At station for traffic 
 with the Indians had been formed at Nantasket, at the entrance of 
 Boston Harbour. To this spot Eoger Conant repaired with some 
 others, and soon after Lyford and Oldham, two ministers of Episco- 
 palian tendencies, sent over by the Merchant Adventurers, had been 
 expelled for practising against the Church and Government of Plymouth. 
 Meanwhile, the favourable intelligence from New Plymouth had 
 inspired a body of merchants, at the instigation of Mr. White, a 
 famous Puritan preacher at Dorchester, to form a new settlement, of 
 which Eoger Conant was appointed the superintendent ; but the first 
 issue was so unsatisfactory that the enterprise was on the point of 
 being abandoned. But by the earnest solicitations of White, who 
 promised to obtain a patent, and send out new emigrants, Conant was 
 induced to remain at a spot called Naumkeag, which afterwards 
 received the name of Salem, in the hope of better days. Nor was it 
 long before the indefatigable exertions of White were crowned with 
 a success that transcended his expectations. For it so happened that 
 the Plymouth Company for New England had just efiected a sale to 
 some gentlemen of Dorchester of a large tract of land upon the shores 
 of Massachusetts Bay, probably for purely trading purposes. But a 
 higher scope was given to their design by the introduction, through 
 White's agency, of a fresh body of Puritan gentlemen of high standing 
 and ample possessions, who at length purchased the entire right and 
 interest conceded by the Company. The chief of these founders of 
 the state of Massachusetts were Winthrop, Johnson, Dudley, Cradock, 
 Goife, and Sir Eichard Saltonstall, names which, almost unknown to 
 English history, are embalmed with the veneration of their American 
 descendants. The object they proposed to themselves in this enter- 
 prise, was to found a place of refuge for " such as were called Noncon- 
 formists,'' where, with the favour and leave of the king, they might 
 enjoy the liberty of their own persuasion in matters of worship 
 and Church discipline, without disturbance of the peace of the 
 
APPENDIX. 223 
 
 kingdom, and without offence to others not hke-minded with them- 
 selves; to found, in short, a strictly Puritan commonwealth. 
 
 After some delay, a patent, afterwards more fully con&med, not, as 
 we learn, " without great cost, favour of personages of note, and much 
 labour," was obtained from the king, and while the principals of the 
 expedition remained at home to make important preliminary arrange- 
 ments, a body of settlers was sent out to take possession of the newly 
 ceded territory. 
 
 The conduct of the enterprise was committed to the charge of John 
 Endicott, a Puritan of the harshest and most bigoted school, to whom 
 Macaulayls description might well apply, — with an inveterate animosity 
 to the Book of Common Prayer, a superstitious horror of the image 
 of the Cross, and an intense antipathy to lovelocks, and such like 
 vanities, possessed besides of firan resolution, and fiery zeal in the 
 maintenance of his own particular tenets, and putting down aU that 
 diverged either to the right or left of his own infallible standard. An 
 instance of this occurred even in the very infancy of the settlement. 
 Two brothers of the name of Browne, who were among the original 
 patentees — and men of property and influence, together with other of ■ 
 the settlers — had remarked on the passage that the ministers 
 appointed to the spiritual charge of the colony, though ostensibly 
 belonging to the Church of England, made no use of the Book of 
 Common Prayer, nor administered the Sacraments after the fashion 
 prescribed by the Rubric. Being themselves sincere disciples of. that 
 communion, they very naturally and consistently retired apart from 
 the rest, and performed the service as appointed by the Common 
 Prayer-book. For this offence they were accused by Endicott, against 
 whom they retorted that they were only acting as true sons of the Church, 
 while the Governor and the Ministers were in fact acting as Separatists 
 and Schismatics. The ministers answered, with disingenuous evasion, 
 that they did not separate fi-om the Church of England, but only from 
 its abuses — that having suffered much for conscience sake, and being 
 in a place where they might have their liberty, they neither could nor 
 would submit to what they deemed sinful corruptions of the word of 
 God. As the brothers boldly maintained their ground, Endicott, with 
 a high-hande'd stretch of power, shipped them off to England, where a 
 committee was appointed to hear their complaints. But, to use the 
 language of Moreton, — "the Lord so disposed of all," or in other 
 words, the Puritanical heads of the Comnany. though faintly reprov- 
 
224 APPENDIX. 
 
 ing Endicott and the ministers for their want of caution, so com- 
 pletely sympathised with the principle that had guided their conduct, 
 that the complaints of the Brownes fell unheeded to the ground. 
 
 This transaction not merely illustrates the character of Endicott, 
 but exposes the secret principle upon which the new commonwealth 
 was founded, the open avowal of which would have certainly prevented 
 the concession of a Eoyal charter. It was, while nominally subject to 
 the authority of the Church of England, to establish a totally different 
 system — in which all that was really vital to that system, such as 
 its episcopal government and appointed formularies, should be entirely 
 set aside, and no toleration granted to any other form of worship, but 
 that agreed upon by themselves. The expulsion of the Brownes was 
 only the first of that series of oppressive actions, which ended in 
 the judicial murder of the Quakers. • 
 
 It cannot but be remarked here, how much more consistent and 
 intelligible was the principle of entire Independency adopted by the 
 Plymouth Pilgrims, than this ambiguous policy of professed adherence 
 to the Church of England, the teachings of which were practically 
 disavowed and detested. But the mask which necessity compelled the 
 politic fathers of Massachusetts to wear, was cast off as soon as they 
 had attained their object, and they were even now actively engaged in 
 carrying a measure which was to confer on them a virtual inde- 
 pendence of the English Government. 
 
 This was, the transference of the Government of the colony from 
 England, where it would have remained under the eye of the State, 
 to the distant shores of America, where it was practically independent 
 of foreign control. By a quiet resolution among themselves, the Com- 
 pany voted the alteration, and drew up an order to that effect ; a step, 
 as has been weU observed, no less remarkable for its boldness than was 
 the apathy of Government in allowing it to pass without objection. 
 The observations of Robertson on this subject appear to be un- 
 answerable. 
 
 " In this singular transaction, to which there is nothing similar in 
 the history of English colonization, two circumstances merit particular 
 attention : one is the power of the Company to make this transferance ; 
 the other is the silent acquiescence with which the king permitted it to 
 take place. If the validity of this determination of the Company be 
 tried by the charter which constituted it a body politic, and conveyed 
 to it all the corporate powers with which it was invested, it is evident 
 
APEENDIX. 225 
 
 that it could neither exercise those powers in any mode different from 
 what the charter prescribed, nor ahenate them in such a manner as to 
 convert the jurisdiction of a trading corporation in England into a 
 provincial government in America. But from the first institution of 
 the company of Massachusetts Bay, its members seem to have been 
 animated with a spirit of innovation in civil pohcy, as well as in reli- 
 gion; and by the habit of rejecting established usages in the one, they 
 were prepared for deviating from them in the other. They had applied 
 for a royal charter in order to give legal effect to their operations in 
 England as acts of a body politic ; but the persons whom they sent out 
 to America, as soon as they landed there, considered themselves as 
 individuals united together by voluntary association, possessing the 
 natural right of men who form a society, to adopt what mode of 
 government, and to enact what laws, they deemed most conducive to 
 the general felicity. Upon this principle of being entitled to judge 
 and to decide for themselves, they established their church in Salem, 
 without regard to the institutions of the Church of England, of which 
 the charter supposed them to be members, and bound of consequence 
 to conformity with its ritual. Suitably to the same ideas, we shall 
 observe them framing all their future plans of civil and ecclesiastical 
 pohcy. The king, though abundantly vigilant in observing and 
 checking slighter encroachments on his prerogative, was either so 
 much occupied with other cares, occasioned by his fatal breach with 
 his parhament, that he could not attend to the proceedings of the 
 Company, or he was so much pleased with the prospect of removing a 
 body of turbulent subjects to a distant country where they might be 
 useful and could not prove dangerous, that he was disposed to connive 
 at the irregularity of a measure which facilitated their departure." 
 
 In the meantime the Company had proceeded to elect for their 
 Governor Mr. John Winthrop, a gentleman of ancient and honourable 
 family, and of good estate. Their choice was well justified by the 
 sagacity he had displayed even when a youth, being chosen for a 
 justice of the peace when but eighteen years of age. No less deeply 
 imbued than Endicott with the solemn piety of the Puritans, his cha- 
 racter was far more lofty and serene, marking him out as the proper 
 man to guide the new launched vessel, and to temper the extrava- 
 gance of the more austere and fanatical, by the influence of wisdom 
 and moderation. The portraits of Endicott and Winthrop are stUl 
 preserved at Boston, and answer weU to the difference of their 
 
226 APPENDIX. 
 
 respective characters. Endicott's appearance is bold, stem, and un- 
 amiable ; the physiognomy of Winthrop is grave, bland, and benevolent. 
 The former seems fitted to excite divisions, the latter to compose 
 them. Nor is there in the appearance of Winthrop any indication of 
 extravagant austerity ; his dress, though not in the height of the court 
 style, is that of a gentleman of rank, and his hair worn in the pic- 
 turesque fashion which Vandyke has rendered immortal. It is said 
 that Charles I. said of him, that "it was a pity such a worthy gentleman 
 should be no better accommodated than with the hardships of America." 
 Where others would have sought to govern by a display of force, 
 Winthrop disarmed opposition by gentleness and moderation. No 
 man was more deeply penetrated by that charity — the most precious 
 and the least practised of all the christian graces. None was better 
 skilled in overcoming evil with good. On one occasion he had received 
 an offensive letter from an officer of the colony, which he simply 
 returned to the bearer, observing that " he was not willing to keep 
 such a letter of provocation by him." Soon after, the same person, 
 during a scarcity, sent to purchase some of his cattle ; Winthrop sent 
 them to him, " begging that he would receive them as a token of his 
 good wiU." The gentleman wrote back — " Sir, in overcoming of your- 
 self, you have overcome me." Such was the governor who now pre- 
 pared to set sail for the shores of Massachusetts Bay. 
 
 The circumstances attending the settlement of Massachusetts were 
 widely different from those under which the colony of the Pilgrims 
 struggled into existence. In this there were but one or two possessed 
 of any capital or influence ; the majority had little but their labour — 
 and they had to submit to the hardest conditions to obtain the means 
 of proceeding to America. Most of the Massachusetts settlere, on the 
 contrary, were men of property and standing, and by their joint sub- 
 scriptions a sum was raised sufficient to fit out a considerable expe- 
 dition, and, as the emigrants flattered themselves, to obviate those 
 distresses arising from the want of proper food and conveniences. A 
 single ship had carried over the Pilgrims and their fortunes — a fleet 
 of several vessels now departed with the emigrants who followed in 
 their wake. 
 
 Some time before their arrival, certain of the settlers, dissatisfied 
 with the situation of Salem, had extended their explorations further 
 up Massachusetts Bay, and already planted themselves down at a spot 
 to which they gave the name of Charlestown. 
 
APPENDIX. 227 
 
 Grievous distress had indeed befallen the emigrants at SaJem ; eighty 
 deaths from exposure and scarcity had occurred during the past winter, 
 and they were at almost the starving point, when, on the 14th of Jime, 
 the "Arbella," with Winthrop on board, appeared in the harbour. 
 After relieving their more pressing wants, the governor proceeded to 
 Charlestown, and for some time took up his abode there, but the bad 
 quality of the water, and consequent sickness, rendered a removal 
 exceedingly desirable. Nor was it long before a more eligible site was 
 pitched upon. On Noddle's Island — now East Boston — Mr. Samuel 
 Maverick had built a fort, and mounted four cannon to protect him 
 from the Indians. Another settler, Mr. William Blackstone, had 
 pitched his tent upon the western side of an adjacent peninsula, called 
 bj the Indians Shawmut, which, from its remarkable formation of 
 three conspicuous eminences, received from the English the name of 
 Trimountain. This irregular peninsula was then adorned with ancient 
 trees, and its springs of water proved to be excellent, so that the good 
 report of Blackstone, confirmed by the examination of others, induced 
 Winthrop soon after to transfer thither the head quarters of his colony. 
 
 The claims of Mr. Blackstone as first discoverer and occupant were 
 satisfied, and the town laid out. A spot was set apart for a training- 
 field, and pasture ground for cattle — which, never since encroached upon, 
 has at length become a beautiful promenade, surrounded by the most 
 elegant houses of the city, which, after the English birth-place of 
 several of the chief settlers, received the name of Bostoit. In the 
 midst of this beautiful common still stands an ancient tree, a relic of 
 the aboriginal forest, whose venerable trunk is defended with a railing, 
 and its huge drooping branches firmly supported upon wooden props. 
 On a bold eminence, to the north of this common, was erected, a few 
 years later, a beacon, similar to those used in England for the same 
 purpose, intended to alarm the surrounding settlers in case of invasion 
 by the Indians. 
 
 In settling their new state, the fiirst object was to provide for the 
 clergy, who might well indeed be regarded as the real heads of the 
 community, and as exercising a controlling influence over it. The 
 privilege of voting was confined to the elect alone, i. e. to those who 
 were believed to be animated by saving gra^e, and therefore admitted 
 as church members. The style of legislation was in keeping. Sum- 
 mary justice was administered to any who transgressed the strict 
 enactments of the court, and careless livers were admonished to give 
 
228 APPENDIX. 
 
 heed to their ways. A few specimens, quoted from Dearborn's 
 " Boston Notions," will suflSciently exhibit the jealous severity with 
 which the fathers of the Puritan commonwealth maintained their own 
 dignity, and watched over the morals and manners of the commiinity, 
 by enacting towards recusants the same severities previously inflicted 
 on themselves in England ; videlicet : — 
 
 '■' Phihp Katcliffe (a servant) being convicted of slanderous invectives 
 against the Church and Government, to be whipped, lose his ears, and 
 to be banished, which was (presently) executed." 
 
 Some of their judicial sentences are not without a touch of sly 
 humour; videlicet: — " 1640. Edward Palmer was hired to build a pair 
 of stocks, and on being adjudged as asking a great price for them, was 
 sentenced to be put in them for one hour." 
 
 " 1652. Samuel Lovell is admonished to take heed of light carriage ; 
 and Catherine, wife of Eichard Cornish, being found suspicious of 
 incontinency, is warned to take heed of her ways." 
 
 " 1654. A man who had often been punished for being drunk, was 
 now ordered to wear a red D about his neck for a year." 
 
 Householders were warned against spending their time "unpro- 
 fitably," and " common wasters, improfitable fowlers, and tobacco 
 takers," were to be severely dealt with by the court. 
 
 The strictest sumptuary laws were enacted against the vanities of 
 dress. Ordered, " that no person, either man or woman, shall make or 
 buy any slashed clothes, other than one slash in each sleeve, and 
 another in the back ; also all cut-work, embroidered, or needle-workt 
 caps, bands. Vayles are forbidden hereafter to be made or worn, under 
 the aforesaid penalty ; also aU gold or silver girdles, hatbands, belts, 
 rufis, beaver-hats, are prohibited to be bought or worn hereafter, 
 under the aforesaid penalty." 
 
 " No garment shall be made with short sleeves, whereby the naked- 
 ness of the arm may be discovered in the wearing thereof." 
 
 The same severity was exercised against any who should dare to 
 propagate or even express opinions at variance with the self-constituted 
 rulers of the state, as witness, — " 1st of 10th month, Boston. The 
 Jury found Hugh Buetts to be guilty of heresy, and that his person 
 and errors are dangerous for infection of others. It was ordered that 
 the said Hugh Buett should be gone out of om- jurisdiction by the 
 24th present, upon pain of death, and not return upon pain of being 
 hanged." 
 
APPENDIX. 229 
 
 These instances will amply suffice to prove that the Puritans can 
 claim no superiority over their Anglican persecutors in regard to 
 toleration. The early history of Massachusetts is indeed a con- 
 tinual record of their endeavour to put down by force the slightest 
 liberty of opinion or freedom of conduct in the state over which they 
 presided. This severity of the " Lord Brethren " in America, as they 
 were satirically called, had precisely the same salutary effect in America 
 as that of the " Lord Bishops " in England — viz., the driving forth 
 of recusants and objectors, to found new colonies for themselves, 
 and thus to enlarge the circle of conquests over the surrounding 
 wilderness. 
 
 The first instance of this was the case of Roger Williams, a young 
 Puritan preacher, who, soon after his arrival from England, disturbed 
 the peace of the community by certain novelties and scruples. When 
 threatened with expulsion unless he desisted, he boldly enunciated a 
 doctrine new to those times — 'viz., that the civil magistrate had no 
 right to interfere in matters pertaining to religion, not even " to stop 
 a church from apostasy and heresy.'' Such a principle struck at the 
 very root of the form of government established by the rulers of 
 Massachusetts, and Williams was accordingly expelled. In the depth 
 of winter he fled into the wilderness, and took refuge with the Narra- 
 gansett Indians, who received him with great kindness. In their 
 territory he laid the foundation of " Providence ; '' and the new state of 
 Rhode Island, of which civil and religious liberty was the fundamental 
 principle, was speedily called into existence. 
 
 However severe and bigoted they might be, the firmness with which 
 the rulers of Massachusetts not only weeded out obnoxious opinions, 
 but guided the helm of state, their watchfulness over the morals an 
 manners of the community, their establishment of " Common Schools," 
 and zeal for education, their encouragement of industry and commerce, 
 gave strength and stability to the rising state, and attracted the admi- 
 ration of their Puritan brethren in England. An illustrious visitor soon 
 came over, in the person of Mr. Henry Vane, son of Sir Henry Vane, 
 whom Milton has immortalized as "young in years, but in sage 
 counsel old." He was received with the highest distinction, and 
 elected chief magistrate of the colony. His stay, however, was but 
 brief, for he became involved in some religious disputes which sprang 
 up shortly after his arrival, and which cannot be better described than 
 in the words of Robertson. 
 
230 APPENDIX, 
 
 " It was the custom at that time in New England, among the chief 
 men in every congregation, to meet once a-week, in order to repeat 
 the sermons which they had heard, and to hold religious conference 
 with respect to the doctrines contained in them. Mrs. Hutchinson, 
 whose husband was among the most respectable members of the 
 colony, regretting that persons of her sex were excluded from the 
 benefit of those meetings, assembled statedly in her house a number of 
 women, who employed themselves in pious exercises similar to those of 
 the men. At first she satisfied herself with repeating what she could 
 recollect of the discourses delivered by their teachers. She began 
 afterwards to add illustrations, and at length proceeded to censiure 
 some of the clergy as unsound, and to vent opinions and fancies of her 
 own. These were all founded on the system which is denominated 
 Antinomian by divines, and tinged with the deepest enthusiasm. She 
 taught that sanctity of life is no evidence of justification, or of a state 
 of favour with God ; and that such as inculcated the necessity of mani- 
 festing the reality of our faith by obedience, preached only a covenant 
 of works ; she contended that the Spirit of God dwelt personally in 
 good men, and by inward revelations and impressions they received 
 the fullest discoveries of the Divine wUl. The fluency and confidence 
 with which she delivered these notions, gained her many admirers and 
 proselytes, not only among the vulgar, but among the principal inha- 
 bitants. The whole colony was interested and agitated. Vane, whose 
 sagacity and acuteness seemed to forsake him whenever they were 
 turned towards religion, espoused and defended her wildest tenets. 
 Many conferences were held, days of fasting and humiliation were 
 appointed, a general synod was called; and, after dissensions which 
 threatened the dissolution of the colony, Mrs. Hutchinson's opinions 
 were condemned as erroneous, and she herself banished. Several of 
 her disciples withdrew from the province of their own accord. Vane 
 quitted America in disgust, unlamented even by those who had lately 
 admired him ; some of them now regarded him as a mere visionary, 
 and others, as one of those dark, turbulent spirits doomed to embroil 
 every society into which they enter." 
 
 The fate of Mrs. Hutchinson was as imhappy as her hfe was restless. 
 After her retirement to Rhode Island, where she participated in aU the 
 toils and privations of a new settlement, she continued to promulgate 
 her doctrines with the utmost ardour. Her sons, openly arraigning the 
 justice of her banishment, were seized and thrown into prison. To fly 
 
APPENDIX. 231 
 
 beyond the reach of persecution, the whole fe.mily passed over into the 
 territory of the Dutch, at the time when Kieft, the governor, had 
 aroused by his rashness and cruelty vindictive reprisals on the part of 
 the Indians. The dwelling of Mrs. Hutchinson was set on fire, and 
 she perished with her children amidst the flames, or was murdered by 
 the infuriated savages. 
 
 In addition to intestine troubles, the colony, as it spread into the 
 wilderness, began to excite the jealousy and provoke the hostility of 
 the Indian tribes. It has been already narrated how firmly the 
 Plymouth settlers put down their first attempts to aggress, yet how 
 much kindness and consideration they evinced in their general deport- 
 ment towards them. But this state of things could not be lasting ; an 
 invincible necessity hurried on a collision between the weaker race and 
 the stronger one by which they were fated to be supplanted. The 
 first quarrel arose with the Pequods, who after a bloody struggle were 
 at length exterminated, their principal stronghold being stormed and 
 set on fire, men, women, and children perishing promiscuously in the 
 flames. This ruthless massacre struck terror into the surrounding 
 tribes, and — but only for a while — repressed their hostility. 
 
 Thus had the state of Massachusetts and her sister colonies of New 
 Plymouth, New Haven, and Connecticut taken firm root upon the 
 American soil, when, after a long and doubtful struggle, the monarchy 
 was overturned in England, and the Kepublicans became triumphant. 
 By this time the Massachusetts theocracy had estabhshed an almost 
 practical independence, which they were desirous of maintaining 
 alike against the interference of either king or parliament. But they 
 could not prevent the loud miu^murs of the members of other commu- 
 nions than their own, who complained that upon religious grounds 
 they were unjustly deprived of participation in pohtical power. An 
 attempt was made, by sending over an agent to England, to compel 
 them to a more liberal policy, but for the present it proved entirely 
 abortive. On the contrary, the restrictions imposed on religious 
 liberty were made increasingly severe. The first persecution fell upon 
 the Baptists, who had dared to insinuate their principles in defiance of 
 prohibitory enactments. A severer fate befel the Quakers — a sect 
 then characterised by a wild fanatical violence which has in our own 
 day changed into the very opposite extreme. " The apostles of the New 
 Light, ploughmen and milkmaids," says Bancroft, "becoming itinerant 
 preachers, sounded the alarm through the world, and appealed to the 
 
232 APPENDIX. 
 
 consciences of Puritans and Cavaliers, of th'e Pope and the Grand 
 Turk, of the negro and the savage Their apostles made their way to 
 Rome and Jerusalem, to New England and Egypt, and some were 
 even moved to go towards China and Japan, and in search of the 
 unknown realms of Prester John." 
 
 " Boston " (to quote a page from the author's History of America) 
 " had already obtained in England the reputation of being the head- 
 quarters of intolerance, and thither, of course, some of the more 
 zealous were not long in finding their way. Their evil report had 
 preceded them, and they are described as ' a cursed set of heretics 
 lately risen in the world.' Their principles, which struck at the very 
 root of the theocracy, and the fierce enthusiasm with which they pro- 
 pagated them, were far more to be dreaded than the errors of Antino- 
 mians or Anabaptists. The first that came over in July, 1656, were 
 two women, Mary Eisher and Ann Austin. Popular superstition 
 invested them with Satanic attributes, and their persons were examined 
 for the marks of witchcraft. They were shortly afterwards imprisoned 
 and sent away, on which Mary Fisher repaired to Constantinople, 
 where the Turks, who venerate the insane as being under the especial 
 protection of God, listened with respect to her iminteUigible ravings. 
 
 " Heavy fines were now enacted against any who should introduce 
 Quakers into the colony, or circulate the tracts in which they dissemi- 
 nated their opinions. Those who defended the opinions of the sectaries 
 or gave them harbour were severely fined, and, on persisting, banished. 
 Whipping was the mildest punishment awarded to a Quaker, and this 
 discipline was inflicted upon males and females indiscriminately. On 
 the first conviction they were to lose one ear, on a second the other 
 one, and, although the law proscribed torture, on the third were to 
 have their tongues bored through with a hot iron — extreme penalties, 
 which were indeed rather intended to frighten away those who per- 
 sisted in returning over again, in the face of the severest prohibitions. 
 But their zeal amounted almost to insanity ; they insvdted and defied 
 ihe magistrates — disturbed the public worship with contemptuous 
 clamour — nay, instances afterwards occurred in which women, to 
 testify after prophetic fashion against the spiritual nakedness of the 
 land, and regarding the violence thus done to their natural modesty 
 as ' a cross' which it behoved them to bear, displayed themselves 
 without a particle of clothing in the public streets. 
 
 " The obstinacy of the Quakers was not to be repressed by any 
 
APPENDIX. 233 
 
 ordinary severities. Many of them had repaired to Rhode Island, 
 where the free toleration afforded to all sects indiscriminately allowed 
 them to propagate their tenets undisturbed. These, however, few 
 appeared inchned to embrace, and above all — they were not perse- 
 cuted. Their zeal was of that sort that loves to be sharpened by 
 opposition, and rushes upon martyrdom with intense delight. To 
 Boston therefore they were attracted, hke the moth to the candle, by 
 a sort of fatal fascination. It was war to the knife between Puri- 
 tanical bigotry and insane fanaticism. The Puritans, to do them 
 justice, sought to decline the conflict, but it was forced upon them. 
 They did not desire to injure the Quakers, but they were determined 
 to maintain their principles. Hitherto all had been in vain, fines, 
 whippings, and imprisonments ; and now, by a decree of the council, as 
 a last resource, though not without the strenuous resistance of a 
 portion of the deputies, banishment was enforced on pain of death. 
 But that indomitable sect gloried in the opportunity of suffering 
 martyrdom. Eobinson, Stephenson, and Mary Dyer, persisting in 
 braving the penalty denounced against them, were tried and con- 
 demned. The governor, Winthrop, earnestly sought to prevent their 
 execution, and Colonel Temple offered to carry them away, and, if 
 they returned, fetch them off a second time. There was a struggle 
 among the council, many regarding them as mere lunatics, against 
 whom it would be as foolish as cruel to proceed to extremities ; but 
 the majority prevailed, and Stephenson and Eobinson were brought to 
 the scaffold. ' I die for Christ,' said Eobinson. ' We suffer not as 
 evil-doers, but for conscience sake,' said Stephenson. Mary Dyer, 
 with the rope round her neck, after witnessing the execution of her 
 two companions, exclaimed, ' Let me suffer as my brethren, unless you 
 will annul your wicked law.' At the intercession of her son, she was 
 almost forced from the scaffold, on condition of leaving the colony in 
 eight-and-forty hours, but the spirit of the wretched woman was 
 excited almost to insanity by wild enthusiasm and the horrible 
 scenes she had witnessed, and after the trial she addressed from her 
 prison an energetic remonstrance against the cruelty of the council. 
 ' Woe is me for you ! ye are disobedient and deceived,' she urged to 
 the magistrates who had condemned her. ' You will not repent that 
 you were kept from shedding blood, though it was by a woman.' With 
 a courage that woidd be sublime were it not tinctured with insanity, 
 forced by an irresistible impulse, she returned to defy the tyrants of 
 
 Q 
 
234 APPENDIX. 
 
 the ' bloody town,' and to seal her testimony against them with her 
 life. She was taken and hanged upon Boston Common." 
 
 Such were at length the unhappy results to which the Puritan 
 leaders of Massachusetts were driven by their refusal of the right of 
 religious liberty. The public indignation was extreme, and they pro- 
 bably felt, when too late, that their inexorable principles had carried 
 them further than they intended. Strong remonstrances were also 
 sent to England, where a storm was already gathering which was soon 
 to level their enclosures with the dust, and establish freedom of opinion 
 upon the ruins of their self-constituted theocracy. 
 
 With the downfal of the Commonwealth, and the accession of 
 Charles II., the Episcopalians rose again into the ascendant, deter- 
 mined no longer to brook that exclusion from pohtical power stUl 
 jealously enforced by the Puritans 6f Boston. Threats were held out 
 that unless the latter made the required concessions, their charter 
 would be revoked, and the king resume the government of the 
 province. Eoyal commissioners were sent over, but were treated with 
 so much evasion and contumely, that they returned to England, 
 loudly exclaiming against the insolence and intolerance of the 
 Bostonian leaders. 
 
 Peremptory orders were accordingly sent out for the Governor of 
 Massachusetts to return to England, and answer for this audacious 
 contempt of the Koyal authority, but a timely submission averted for 
 a while the threatened punishment. 
 
 " Scarcely had the colony recovered froiji this alarm, when it was 
 involved in another and far more formidable peril. With the excep- 
 tion of the Pequods, whose extermination has been already described, 
 the Indian tribes in the New England territory remained undiminished 
 in numbers, though greatly altered in position, and in the feelings with 
 which they regarded the growing encroachments of the colonists. 
 Many, indeed, under the benevolent exertions of Ehot and his con- 
 federates, had been reclaimed from the wild faith of their forefathers, 
 and formed into little communities of so-caUed ' praying Indians,' 
 scattered amongst the settlements of their Christian benefactors; 
 while other small tribes, looking up with awe to the white men, and 
 acquiring a taste for their habits, remained in peaceful and contented 
 dependence upon them. Not so, however, with the Wampanoags or 
 Pokanokets, and their sachem, Philip. His father, Massasoit, has been 
 honourably distinguished for his assistance of the Plymouth settlers in 
 
AIPBNDIS. 235 
 
 their day of distress j but while he had favoured the white men, he had 
 looked with suspicion upon their attempts to convert his people from 
 their ancient faith, and had endeavoured, but in vain, to obtaia from 
 them a promise that such attempts should cease. Since the days 
 when the Pilgrims landed upon the rock of Plymouth, the Indians had 
 been gradually but constantly losing ground. With the thoughtless 
 haste of savages, they had bartered their lands for the first trifle that 
 had attracted their childish cupidity; incapable of foresight, they 
 looked not to the hour when, by increasing numbers, their forests 
 should be replaced with fields and houses, until, upon the faith of their 
 own treaties, they should be pushed from the old hunting-grounds of 
 their fathers. Above all, they little dreamed that their lordship of 
 the forest, their free movements, and their ancient customs, should be 
 curtailed and abridged, that they should find themselves feudal vassals 
 where they were before independent sovereigns, and accustomed to a 
 iurisdiction of others, when traditionary practice had so long sufficed 
 them. These bitter vexations festered in the proud bosom of Philip of 
 Pokanoket, yet he was too well acquainted with the formidable power 
 of the colonists to form any deUberate conspiracy against them ; but, 
 as in the Pequod war, circumstances trifling in themselves, like a 
 sudden spark lighting upon a prepared train, kindled the fierce 
 passions that lay suppressed within, and hurried him into a hasty act 
 of revenge, by which the whole of the colonists and Indians were 
 involved in a bloody and desolating struggle. 
 
 " Philip had been before suspected, though it would appear without 
 reason, of a design against the English, and had been compelled by the 
 people of Plymouth to deliver up his fire-arms, to pay a tribute, and 
 acknowledge his submission to the colony. Not improbably he might 
 have given vent to his disgust in vague and passionate threats against 
 the settlers; at all events he was accused by an Indian informer of 
 having formed a conspiracy to destroy them. This informer was way- 
 laid and murdered by some of Philip's adherents, who, being taken, 
 were put upon their trial by a half English, half Indian jury, and 
 hanged. Philip hastUy retaliated by plundering the nearest settle- 
 ments, while his people, it is said, to his great regret, murdered several 
 of the inhabitants. Thus committed by an act of hasty passion into 
 open defiance of the English, his pride forbade him to recede, and he 
 found himself embarked in a desperate and hopeless s'-.ruggle against a 
 superior power. 
 
236 APPENDIX. 
 
 " A body of troops from Plymouth and Massachusetts immediately 
 hastened to Mount Hope to punish the aggressions of Philip, but found 
 that he had fled with his Indians, leaving behind him the biuned 
 dwellings and mangled bodies of his unhappy victims. The colonists, 
 unable to effect their principal object, sent to the Narragansetts to 
 demand assurance of peace, and the delivery of fugitives. Forced into 
 a reluctant consent, this powerful tribe was for the present compelled 
 to remain passive. In the mean time news came that the fugitive 
 chief had posted himself in a swamp at Pocasset — a body of soldiers 
 repaired thither and surrounded the place to prevent his escape, but 
 soon -experienced the harassing perils of an Indian war. Entangled in 
 the morass, and fired upon by lurking enemies, whom they were 
 unable to discover, they were compelled to retreat with the loss of 
 sixteen of their munber, while PhiUp, breaking through the toils of his 
 pursuers, escaped to the territory of the Nipmucks, who had already 
 taken up arms. Passions long pent up in the breasts of the Indians now 
 suddenly broke forth; which PhUip, running from tribe to tribe, inflamed 
 by an appeal to their common grievances and fears, and in a short time, 
 not one of the exposed out-settlements on the Connecticut was secure. 
 
 " Panic prevailed throughout the colony. Dismal portents of stiU 
 heavier calamities were fancied in the air and sky; shadowy troops of 
 careering horses, Indian scalps, and bows imprinted upon the sun and 
 moon, even the sigh of the wind through the forest, and the dismal 
 howling of wolves, terrified the excited imagination of the colonists. 
 The out-settlers fled for security to the towns, where they spread 
 abroad fearful accounts of the cruel atrocities of the Indians. Nothing 
 but the sins of the community, it was believed, could have brought 
 upon them this alarming visitation, the most innocent amusements 
 appeared in a heinous hght, and the magistrates and clergy earnestly 
 commenced tightening those bonds of discipline which of late had been 
 so alarmingly relaxed. 
 
 " Meanwhile the war spread along the whole exposed frontier of 
 Connecticut, Massachusetts, and even of New Hampshire. To form 
 any adequate conception of its horrors, we must previously form to 
 ourselves a correct idea of its theatre. Except in the vicinity of the 
 larger towns, the whole country was still overspread with a dense 
 forest, the few villages were almost isolated, being connected only by 
 long miles of blind pathway through the tangled woods; and helpless 
 indeed was the position of that solitary settler who had erected his 
 
APPENDIX. 237 
 
 rude hut in the midst of a profound wilderness, and could see no 
 further around him than the acre or two of ground which he had 
 cleared in the impervious forest. On the other hand, every brake and 
 lurking-place was intimately known to the Indians, and the most 
 watchful suspicion could not foretel the moment of their sudden 
 onslaught. A circumstance which added fearfully to the peril was, 
 that they had gradually come to obtain possession of fire-arms, thus 
 adding modes of destruction which had been taught them by the 
 white man to those with which they were already fiimUiar. The 
 farmer, if he ventured forth to till the fields, was picked off by some 
 lurking assassin, while the main body of marauders would burst upon 
 his defenceless dwelling, and scalp the helpless infant in the presence 
 of its frenzied mother, or consume them in the flames of their own 
 homestead. Unable to cultivate the fields, the settlers were exposed 
 to famine, while the convoys of provisions sent to their assistance were 
 waylaid and seized, and their escort cut oif in ambush. Such was the 
 fate of the brave Lathrop, at the spot which still retains the name of 
 ' Bloody Brook.' The cavalcade proceeding to chxirch, the marriage 
 procession, if marriage could be thought of in those frightful days, was 
 often interrupted by the sudden death-shot from some invisible enemy. 
 On one occasion, at Hadley, while the people were engaged in divine 
 service, the Indians burst in upon the village, panic and confusion 
 were at their height, when suddenly there appeared a man of very 
 venerable aspect, who rallied the terrified inhabitants, formed them 
 into military order, led them to the attack, routed the Indians, saved 
 the village, and then disappeared as marvellously as he had come upon 
 the scene. The excited and grateful inhabitants, unable to discover 
 any trace of their preserver, supposed him to be an angel sent from 
 God. It was no angel, but one of Cromwell's generals, old Goflfe the 
 regicide, who, compelled by the vigilant search made after him by 
 order of the English government to fly from place to place, had espied 
 fi-om an elevated cavern in the neighbourhood the murderous approach 
 of the savages, and hurried down to effect the deliverance of his coun- 
 trymen. 
 
 " During the leafy summer the Indians, enabled to conceal them- 
 selves in every thicket, carried on this harassing warfare to the great 
 disadvantage of the Enghsh, who sought in vain to grapple with a foe 
 that, after spreading death and devastation on all sides, vanished into 
 the impenetrable recesses of the woods. But the winter was come, the 
 
238 APPENDIX. 
 
 forests were more open, and a large body of a thousand men having 
 been raised by the united efforts of Plymouth, Connecticut, and 
 Massachusetts, it was determined to strike a decisive blow. The 
 Narragansetts had given shelter to the enemies of the colony, with 
 whom it was resolved to anticipate their junction. After a long march 
 through the snow, and a night spent in the woods, the soldiers ap- 
 proached the stronghold of the tribe, planted in the midst of a morass 
 accessible only by a narrow and fortified pathway, and crowded with 
 armed Indians. The leaders were all shot down as they advanced to 
 the charge ; but this only excited to the highest pitch the desperate 
 determination of the English, who, after having once forced an entrance, 
 and being again repulsed after a fierce struggle protracted for two 
 hours, burst infuriated into the Indian fort. Revenge for the blood of 
 their murdered brethren was alone thought of; mercy was implored 
 in vain; the fort was fired, and hundreds of Indian wives and children 
 perished in the midst of the conflagration; while their provisions 
 gathered together for the long winter being consumed, and their 
 wigwams burned, those who escaped from fire and sword wandered 
 miserably through the forests to perish with cold and hunger. 
 
 The losses of the English had been severe, but they were capable of 
 being repaired; those of the Indians were irreparable. Their stores 
 destroyed, their villages burned, and unable to cultivate their lands to 
 obtain a fresh supply, they collected all their energies for one last 
 despairing struggle. Permanently to resist the power of their enemies 
 was hopeless, but ere they fell they might inflict upon them a fearful 
 amount of suffering. Accordingly they fell every where with iresh fury 
 upon the exposed towns, and even approached within twenty mUes of 
 Boston itself They had threatened, in the insanity of their hatred, to 
 carry on the war for many years. But their strength was rapidly ex- 
 hausting itself; stronghold after stronghold fell before the settlers, 
 and by the approach of the ensuing autumn the Indians were com- 
 pletely broken, and began to fade away from the presence of their 
 exterminating foe. 
 
 " The Indian leaders, amidst all the disasters of their followers, pre- 
 served an inflexible courage. Canonchet, the chief of the Narragansetts, 
 being taken, was offered his life if he would consent to negotiate a 
 peace. He firmly refused, and suffered death with stoic resolution. 
 The unhappy Philip, the author of the war, had foreseen its fatal ter- 
 mination for his own race. Wandering from tribe to tribe, assailed by 
 
APPENDIX. 239 
 
 recriminations and reproaches for the misery he had brought upon his 
 brethren, his heart was full of the bitterest anguish. Compelled at 
 length to return to his old haunts, where he was yet sustained by 
 Witamo, a female chief and relative, he was presently attacked by the 
 Enghsh, who carried off his wife and child as captives ; a loss which 
 filled up the measure of his sufferings : and it was perhaps a merciful 
 release when, shortly after, he was treacherously shot by one of his 
 own adherents who deserted to the English. Thus perished Philip of 
 Pokanoket, who, possessed as he was of all the nobler qualities of the 
 Indian chieftain, was worthy of a better fete. His child, the last of 
 the princes of his tribe, was sold into slavery at Bermuda." 
 
 The gun of this unhappy cliief, and his letter to Governor Prince, 
 are among the curiosities preserved in the Pilgrim Hall at Plymouth. 
 
 At length the hour of submission to the Royal wishes could be no 
 longer averted. Peremptory demands were made that the terms of 
 the franchise should be enlarged, and all freemen, of whatever rehgious 
 denomination (Catholics excepted) allowed to have a vote. Freedom 
 of worship was insisted upon as the inalienable right of every religious 
 body in the state. Singular spectacle ! that whilst the English church 
 and government at home were displaying the most cruel intolerance 
 toward Puritans and Presbyterians, they should have been engaged in 
 overturning a system of religious exclusiveness on the distant shores 
 of America. The fathers of the theocracy displayed in this crisis the 
 same inflexible courage and the same bigoted obstinacy in which they 
 had all prided themselves from the beginning. They resolved rather 
 to die than to submit. A day of solemn prayer was held, which only 
 tended, as might be supposed, to exalt their enthusiasm to the highest 
 pitch, and to establish their unflinching determination. They might 
 be broken, but they would not bend. " The ministers of God in New 
 England had more of the spirit of John the Baptist, than now when a 
 storm hath overtaken them to be reeds shaken with the wind. The 
 priests were to be the first that should set their foot in the waters, and 
 there stand till the danger be overpast." The result was, that the 
 Charter was declared forfeited, religious liberty proclaimed, and a death 
 blow given to that intolerance which had exhibited such lamentable 
 results. 
 
 We have thus briefly sketched the prominent incidents in the 
 history of Massachusetts down to the revocation of the Charter. The 
 observations of an American writer on this point appear to be perfectly 
 
240 APPENDIX. 
 
 well founded. " It is probably," says he, "a deep cause for congratu- 
 lation, thanksgiving, and praise to the Supreme Ruler of nations, that 
 England possessed a superior power by Charter over the politic course 
 of the first emigrants to this part of our land, causing them to respect 
 the hves and liberties of those who could not agree with them in every 
 thought in their religious matters ; for if we look a,t the severity of 
 treatment exercised towards their own kindred of pure and pi()us 
 brethren who differed from them on trifling points, and take that as a 
 criterion and a sample of a government it would have been their 
 pleasure to establish here, we cannot be too grateful for the check 
 that was given them ; and if the 'quo warranto' was termed by them 
 ' an instrument of death,' the result has worked gloriously for all 
 future generations, by giving to them a full freedom to worship the 
 God of heaven and earth according to the dictates of their own 
 conscience, and for allowing every man to be answerable to his Maker 
 and to his Maker onlyiov his thoughts in religious matters." 
 
 Let it not be supposed that an exposure of the weak side of the 
 Puritans who founded Massachusetts involves any insensibility to the 
 heroic greatness of their character. Without that very feeling of zeal, 
 however mistaken in some respects, for what they deemed the way and 
 will of God ; without that high ambition and uncompromising determi- 
 nation to work it out, they would probably never have been stirred up 
 to the task they undertook, or performed it with such success and 
 vigour. In the infancy of such a state, it doubtless required a firm 
 hand to prevent its feeble elements fi-om becoming divided and 
 scattered. The very faults of these men were, therefore, instrumental 
 in carrying out the work of Providence. The tyranny of the Bishops 
 drove the Puritans to America— the tyranny of the Puritans forced 
 malcontents to found fresh colonies, stirred up the spirit of Eoger 
 Williams to proclaim the then new doctrine of the non-mterference of 
 the civil magistrate in matters of religion, and finally urged those very 
 Episcopalians who refused spiritual freedom to their dissenting brethren 
 in England, to insist upon possessing it for themselves in America, 
 and, by so doing, throw open in that land the gates of religious 
 liberty, which can never again be closed. 
 
 n. CLAr, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. 
 
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 desideratum of a complete picturesque guide td the 
 topography of Jerusalem."— Pfl<rio(. 
 
 " The volume is well got up in point of emhellish- 
 
 ments, and contains much valuable matter, with illus- 
 trations beautifully executed." — Ch. of England Mag. 
 
 " Our impression is, that Jerusalem wad never before 
 so successfully delineated." — Evai^elical Magazine. 
 
 Fourth Edition, in super-royal 8vo, price 12s. clotli gilt, or 21s. morocco gilt, 
 
 FORTY DAYS IN THE DESEET, 
 
 Or, a JOURNEY from CAIRO by WADY FEIRAN to MOUNT SINAI and PETRA. 
 BY W. H. BARTLETT. 
 
 ILL0STRAXED WITH TWENTT-SEVEN ENOEA VINOS ON STEEL, A MAP, 
 AND NUMEROUS -WOODOUTS. 
 
 " Mr. Bartlett has made a took, pleasant in letter- 
 press, as well as attractive in its illustrations— delicately 
 finished line engravings of subjects particularly well 
 chosen." — Athenavm, 
 
 " A very handsome volume, copiously and cleverly 
 illustrated in the vignette style •, an elegant table-hook, 
 or most acceptable present." — Ailae. 
 
 "Entertainingly written, and crowded with steel 
 engravings of a superior character, which combine to 
 make it a very handsome volume." — Critic. 
 
 "The author presents, in this volume, one of the 
 most picturesque accounts of the route across the 
 wilderness of sand we have ever read." — Jlfomii^ 
 Herald. 
 
 " The writer has proved his capacity to write what is 
 worth reading." — Globe. 
 
 " The number and beauty of the engravings enhance 
 the value of the text, but the latter does not require to 
 lean on them for support. We do not know a more 
 valuable book of that character." — Taifa Magazine. 
 
 Abthur Hall, Virtue, & Co. 25, Paternoster Row'. 
 
^^- 
 
 ILI.USTRATED WORKS BY W. H. BARTLETT-. 
 
 Second Edition, in super-royal 8vo, 16s, cloth gilt ; or 28s. moroooo elegant, 
 
 GLEANINGS ON THE OVERUND EOUTE, 
 
 ■ ' " Bt THE AUTHOB 01" 
 
 "WALKS ABOUT JERUSALEM," "FORTY DAYS IN THE DESERT," &c. 
 
 " An individual of able tesearch, and active oTsaerva- 
 tldh Conveys to us his impressions in language terse, 
 concise, and never tedious ; we listen with pleasure to 
 his tale. Well executed pictorial illustrations consider- 
 ably enhance .the merits Qf this pleasiiig work."— rai^'^ 
 Magazine. ■■ . ■ ' > . , n ^ 
 
 " The reader will find abundance of ijnteresting and 
 amusing information in the volume. As a work of 
 art, it possesses very considerable merit."— CftamJer*'* 
 Journal. 
 
 '* The present work is as excellent as his former pro- 
 ductions, for its lively and picturesque narrative, and 
 
 fbr the exquisite engravings by which it is illustrated." 
 —Athenaum. 
 
 " It is unquestionably one of the most elegant volumes 
 ever published. The letter-press gives an excellent 
 historical ^^count of Malta,, with graphic sketches of 
 travelling adventures, both at that place and at Gib- 
 raltar." — Atlas. 
 
 " Should be in the hands of every person travelling 
 by the Overland Route, as well as in every library in 
 the kingdom with the least pretensions to complete- 
 ness."— Ofi^erwr. 
 
 Thibd Editioit, in super-royal 8vo, price 16s. cloth gilt, 285. morocco gilt, 
 
 THE NILE BOAT ; 
 
 OR, GLIMPSES OP THE LAND OF EGYPT. 
 
 InnSTRATED by Thirty-five Steel Engeavings, and Maps, with numerous WooDCtrTS. 
 By W. H. BAETLETT, Author of "Walka about Jerusalem," &o. 
 
 ,",Thpre is, an actuality about the descriptions, and 
 a beauty about the illustrations, that render this glimpse 
 of Egypt peculiarly charming. The sketches and de- 
 
 scriptive maps render the views witnessed in the ' Nile 
 Bdat ' beautiful realities."— r/ie Stm. 
 
 Thibd ■ Eeihow, in' su^er^-oyal 8vo, price 14s. cloth, gEt edges, 
 or 26s. morocco elegant, 
 
 FOOTSTEPS OF OUR LORD & his APOSTLES, 
 
 A SUCCESSION OF VISITS TO 
 
 THE SCENES OF NEW TESTAMENT NAEKATIVE, 
 
 Mxt^l Ctenfg-t^m 3ktl ftgraWngs, mxh ubnul Wiaahvd^. 
 
 "If beauty of design and execution, combined with 
 elegance of narTatiV,e and- trustworthy .description^ can 
 be any recommendation to a book, it is sufficient to say 
 that this excellent volume possesses every one of these 
 features, and establishes its own character without the 
 need of any further praise." — BeWs Messenger. 
 
 "Mr. Bartlett has with success brought together in 
 an eifective and attractive 'volume, a series of written 
 and engraved memorials of the early days of our faith, 
 
 which cannot but find a welcome in many a domestic 
 circle,' and :cheef with its recollections every Christian 
 heart, whUst it pleases with its artistic beauty the most 
 careless inspectors. We close the book with regret, and 
 recommend it without fear." — Britannia. 
 
 "This is one of the happiest of the many happy 
 Christmas ventures that their publishers have put foith. 
 It is got up in excellent taste, and written in a pleasing 
 and attractive style."— CAwrcA and State Gazette. 
 
 Aethue Hall, Virtue, & Co. 25, Paternoster Kow. 
 A 2 
 
. — ^ — 
 
 THE PILGRIM FATHERS OF NEW ENGLAND, 
 
 By W. H. BAETLETT, Author of "Walks about Jerusalem," &o. 
 With Twenty-eight Steel Plates and numerous Woododts. Handsomely bound and gilt. 
 
 n. 
 
 ROME.-REGAL AND REPUBLICAN. 
 
 A History for Families. By JANE M. STRICKLAND. Edited by Aghes Stbickland, 
 Authoress of " Lives of the Queens of England." {Slwrtty. 
 
 HL 
 
 JULIAN; or, THE CLOSE OF THE CENTURY. 
 
 By L. F. BUNGENER. 
 
 IV. 
 
 THE CHRONICLE OF MERRIE ENGLAND. 
 
 Belated to her Children. By the Author of 'TIabt Powell." 
 
 V. 
 
 CHRIST OUR PASSOVER. 
 
 By the Eev. J. GUMMING, D.D. Uniform with " The Fihgbk of God." [Shortly. 
 
 VL 
 
 MODERN ROMANISM, 
 
 A View of the Proceedings, &o. of the Council of Trent. By B. B. WOODWARD, Esq. B.A. 
 
 VII. 
 
 EVENINGS IN MY TENT. 
 
 By the Rev. N. DATIS. In 8vo, with Illusibatioks. [At Chrislmas. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 RAILWAY READING. 
 
 DRESS AS A FINE ART. 
 
 By Mrs. MERRIFIELD. 
 Reprinted from the "Art-Journal," with Additions and numerous Illusteatiobs. 
 
 IX. 
 
 AN ABRIDGEMENT OF 
 
 OLD AND NEW TESTAMENT HISTORY and GEOGRAPHY, 
 
 By J. T. WHEELER, r.E.G.S. For the Use of Schools. 18mo. 
 
 X. 
 
 TALES OF MANY LANDS. 
 
 By Miss M. F. TYTLER. With Outs. New Edition. 
 
 XI. 
 
 MOWBRAY'S TREATISE ON 
 
 DOMESTIC AND ORNAMENTAL POULTRY. 
 
 Plates. New Edition, enlarged, 
 xn. 
 
 THOUGHTS AND' SKETCHES IN VERSE. 
 
 By CAROLINE DENT. 
 Abthur Hall, Virtue, & Co. 25, Paternoster Row. 
 
^©- 
 
 Works by the Author of " Mary Powell. 
 
 " Whenever we open a volume hy the wuthor of 'Mary PoweW we know at once that we heme a 
 work m our hands that is sure to he distinguished by its pv/riiy. There may -he mm-e or less of 
 amusement — more or less of interest, of pleasantness, or instruction, and these are never wanting j hut 
 one thing is sure to ahov/ndt — namely, am unaffected mid a heaMhy pmrity." — Chubch and State Gaz. 
 
 Putlislied this day, price 7«. id. post 8vo, cloth, 
 
 THE PROVOCATIONS OF MADAME 
 
 PALISSY. 
 
 WITH COLOURED FRONTISPIECE BY -WARREN. 
 
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 something to touch the heart, to call up a quiet smile, 
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 not remember ever having met with a hook at once so 
 natural, so clever, and so emphatically •delicious.'" — 
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 *• It is a long time since we have met with a hook of 
 such truly excellent cjiaracteristics as are apparent in 
 every page of this volume." — Bell's Messengp.r^ 
 
 "On the hasis of the true history of Palissy, the 
 writer has framed the present work r has given a very 
 spirited sketch of his labours ; has exhibited the ex- 
 travagances, amounting to crimes, of a man of genius 
 driving on in the pursuit of his darling object ; and has 
 depicted— as the title promises—with a good deal of 
 power, the plagues of a wife who has such a husband." 
 — Christian Observer^ 
 
 H. 
 
 Recently published, with Frontispiece, &c. 7s. 6d cloth antique, 
 
 THE COLLOQUIES OF EDWARD OSBORNE, 
 
 CITIZEN AND CLOTH-WORKER OF LONDON. 
 
 ' ' This isa pleasant little volume, relating the fortunes 
 of a London apprentice in the sixteenth century." — 
 Athenaum. 
 
 •' The d6mestic history of the household of a citizen 
 
 of London, nearly 400 years ago, is most delightfully 
 told, and there is a reality about the book which renders 
 every page of it interesting."— -ii/aa. 
 
 Second Edition, with Portrait, &c. Vs. M, cloth ahtlqtie, 
 
 Y^ HOUSEHOLD OF SIR THO^- MORE. 
 
 LIBELLTJS A MARGAEETA MORE, 
 QUINDECIM ANNOS NATA, CHELSEIiE DfOEPTUS. 
 
 " It ends with musical melancholy, a strain of ex- | fine portraits ably limned herein. There are family 
 quisitely simple heauty, referring to the judicial slaying pictures so graphically described that they possess the 
 of one of Engfend's worthiest 'sons. There are some 1 mind for ever." — Church and State Gazette. 
 
 IT. 
 
 Handsomely bound and gilt, with Illttminatioss, 
 
 QUEENE PHILIPFA'S GOLDEN BOOKE. 
 
 Ye MAIDEN AND MARRIED LIFE OF MARY 
 
 POWELL, 
 
 AFTEEWAEDS MISTRESS MILTON. 
 
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 regard its subject, cleverness, or delicacy of sentiment 
 and expression— to say nothing of its type and ortho- 
 
 graphy — it is likely to be a most acceptable present to 
 yoimg or old, be their peculiar taste for religion, morals, 
 poetry, history, or romance." — Christian Observer. 
 
 In preparation, 
 
 CHERRY and VIOLET, a Tale of the Great Plague. 
 
 In antique. 
 
 [At Christmas. 
 
 Arthur HAlt, Virtue, & Co. 25, Paterkosteb Eow. 
 
 ^©- 
 
DR. CUMMING'S NEW VOLUME OF LECTURES. 
 
 In preparation, uniform with. "Apooaltptic Skbiohes," 
 
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 Or, sketches OF PATRIARCHAI^ TIMES. 
 
 New Edition, in fcap. price 9s. full cloth, gilt, 
 
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 A MANUAL OP 
 
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 For Scripture Readers, Sunday School Teachers, City 
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 or 2&8. morocco extra^ 
 
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 OF ASIA MINOR. 
 Forming a Third Series of Apocalyptic Sketches. 
 
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 APOSTOLIC CHURCHES. 
 
 Fifth Edition, fcap. Svo. price 3«. cloth, with gilt edges, 
 
 §xix ^Td\tx; 
 
 A MANUAL OF FAMILY PRAYERS 
 
 For General and Special Occasions. 
 
 With short I^a^ers for spare Minutes, and Passages 
 for Reflection. 
 
 DE. GUMMING ON THE NEW TESTAMENT. 
 
 Now COttJiletC, in cldtt, 5s. with Pftosrispiscs, 
 
 hhhit\ ^temg |leafep m 31 W^^\th 
 
 IN XI 
 
 IN lUE BiLMS SERIES, 
 
 Complete. Second Editiom, U. Ctf. 
 
 NOW PUBLISHING IN WEEKLY NUMBERS. 
 
 ^ 
 
 AiWHUft HAtt/ VmiTJE, & Co. 26, tATtiRNosTER Row.' 
 
 -^ 
 
€^ 
 
 WOEKS BY THE EEV. JOHN GUMMING, D.D.^eontinued. 
 
 Just published, price 2s. 6d. neatly tound, the Second Edihoit, of 
 
 BY THE REV. JO 
 
 •' It de^s'ffitli subjects on which true Christians now 
 have not two opinions, and on which the most opposite 
 of the most ultra of partizans ought not to disagree. . , . 
 It therefore addresses itself to a wide class, and it is 
 evidently i^itended for 9-U professing Christians, irre- 
 spective of deiicanination.''—CAMrcft and State Gazette. 
 
 " A work which well proves that the author can be 
 eloquent upon other topics besides those pf the Romish 
 Controversy and Apocalyptic Interpretation. Indeed, 
 for our own part, we like him better on a subject like 
 the present. There are some truly eloquent and grace- 
 
 HN CUMMIN O, D.P. 
 
 ful passages in the little volume before us, which must 
 commend themselves to every reader." — Critic. 
 
 ' ' A work not of great magnitude, but of great interest. 
 This work will amply repay perusal. Notwithstanding 
 occasional evidences of rapid composition, it contains 
 many instances of great beauty of thought." — Church of 
 Scotland Review. 
 
 *' A little volume which aboimds in beauties both of 
 thought, style, and illustration."— TAe Church Journal. 
 
 "Eloquent, demonstrative, and useful." — Wesleyan 
 . Methodist, Magazine. 
 
 A CHEAP EDITION OF 
 
 C|e CHtkat^!tr ^r0t^stEitt ^xsmsim, 
 
 Between the Rev. JOHN GUMMING, D.D. and DANIEL FRENCH, Esci. Barrister-at-Law. 
 , Held at Hamuersmith in 1839. 
 
 " No Clergyman's library can be complete without it." — Bell's Messenger. 
 J*' A eompendium of argument." — Gentlejnan's Magazine. 
 ' ' " Tl(e subject {pro and con) is all but exhausted." — Church and State Gazette. 
 
 New Edition, 6s. revised and corrected, witli additions, 
 
 "^tttnxu Ux t\t Cws; 
 
 Ok, illustrations and REFPTATIONS op THK ERRORS o j ROMANISM and TRACTARIANISM. 
 Just puUished, price 2s. 6d. cloth, 
 
 3itdlmgt0ii ; 
 
 A LECTURE. New and enlarged Edition, with valuable Additions. 
 
 "This is a work of a deeply interesting character, 
 informing, instructing, and impressive throughout." — 
 British Banner. 
 
 ' ' Of all the works written on the deaths and review- 
 ing the life of the deceased hero, this alone bears the 
 character of permanency. Its beauty, fulness of detail, 
 richnes's of language, and general correctness, deserve 
 to make it a standard work." — Church and State Gazette. 
 
 "Dr. Gumming has here done the thing iihat was 
 worthy. The discourse, on a whole, for popular pur- 
 poses, is one of great value. It will be read fifty years 
 hence with an interest even greater — far greater — than 
 that which attaches to it now. The spirit is discrimi- 
 nating, and the tone is evangelical." — Christian Witness. 
 
 "This singularly able and impressive lecture." — 
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 i>\t ga|lwl Jfont; 
 
 An Exposition of the Nature- and Ohligations of 
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 New Edition, in Two Volmnes, price 4s. eaeh, cloth gUt, 
 
 Arthur Hall, VmiCE, & Co. 25, PatekN-ostee Row. 
 
WORKS by MARTIN F. TUPPER, Esq. D.C.I/. P.R.S. 
 
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 ■uniform with " Proverbial Philosophy," 
 
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 upon things of no transient interest. It is one of the 
 
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 merely for time, but for eternity."— Brf/'* Mataiger.: 
 
 Cheaper Edition, in One Volume, cloth, price 5s. 
 
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 AND OTHER TALES,' 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN LEECH.l 
 
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 with a characteristic frontispiece from the telling pencil 
 of John Leech. We can read it ag^in. and again with 
 fresh pleasure." — Literary Gazette. 
 
 " We have rarely had occasion to apea^ more highly 
 of any work than of this. The purpose of the ^ter is 
 admirable, the manner of his working otit the story is 
 natural and truthful, and the sentiments convened are 
 all that can be desired." — Bell's Weekly Messenger. 
 
 "We are glad to see such tales within the reach of 
 the people. Mechanics' Institutes, and libraries of 
 
 a popular character, should avail themselveB of this 
 edition." — Plymouth Herald. 
 
 " A tale powerfully told, and with a good moral 
 strongly enforced."— Xen/wA Gazette. 
 
 " This is one of the most original, peculiar, racy, and 
 interesting books we have ever read." — Cincinnati 
 Gazette. 
 
 " It is the fervour of style, the freshness of illus- 
 tration, the depth of true feeling present in every page, 
 that gives these tales a charm peculiar to themselves." 
 —New York Evening Post, Edited by W. C. Bryant. 
 
 In foolscap, cloth, reduced to 85. 6d. 
 
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 With a PoBTEAiT of Mr. Tuppeb, after Pickersgill. 
 
 Just published, in foolscap 8to, price Zb. cloth, 
 
 KING ALFRED'S POEMS, 
 
 NOW FIEST TURNED INTO ENGLISH METRK 
 Bi MARTIN F. TUPPER, Esq. D.C.L. F.R.S. 
 
 Arthur Hall, Virtue, & Co. 25, Paieritoster Row. 
 
This day is published, price 8s. in post 8vo. cloth, gilt. 
 
 THE OLD FOREST RANGER; 
 
 Or, Wild Sports of India, on the Neigheriy Hills, in the Jungles, and on the Plains. 
 By Major Walter Campbell, of Skipness. New Edition, with Illustrations on Steel. 
 
 " Not the least welcome of our Christmas visitors is 
 this new edition of Major Caufbell's Wild Sports in 
 India. The spirit of the sportsman pervades the book ; 
 such perils by land and water, such hair-breadth escapes, 
 such conflicts with foes worth, the struggle and the 
 hazard. Enough that we announce, as among the 
 literary intelligence of the time, the appearance of this 
 edition of a work already famous, produced in the 
 attractive form of a Christmas book, with numerous 
 engravings of sporting scenes, handsomely printed, and 
 arrayed in a superb binding of green and gold, fitting it 
 for a Christmas gift; and we can hardly conceive 
 a more welcome one to a young man just about to enter 
 on the hardy exercises of the country, orcontemplatinga 
 campaign among the tigers and bears of India." — Critic. 
 
 "Truly, the popularity which it has gained is well 
 
 deserved. The great variety of field-sports which it 
 describes, vrith all the exciting accompaniment of terri- 
 ble dangers and hairbreadth escapes, and the lively 
 humorous tone in which they are narrated, are enough 
 to stir the blood of the most phlegmatic reader ; and we 
 can easily believe with what rapturous delight sports- 
 men of all kinds, but especi^ly old Indians whose 
 memories are refreshed by the tale, are likely to follow 
 the ' Old Forest Ranger ' on his venturesome expe- 
 ditions." — JoJm Bull. 
 
 "Full of wild adventures and most amusing inci- 
 dents, of which thousands who 'have no stomach for 
 the fight ' like to hear." — Art Journal. 
 
 " In a word, ' The Old Forest Ranger ' may now be 
 reckoned among our modem standard works." — The 
 Advertise. 
 
 RAILWAY READING. 
 
 Published this day, 350 pages, price 2s. 6d. post 8vo. 
 
 LEGENDS OE OLD LONDON. By J. Y. Akerman, Esq. F.S.A. 
 
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 description, which should recommend them to all such 
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 nature; while ' The Poster Suit,' * The Alderman,' both 
 contain passages of powerful writing, which twenty 
 years ago might have made a stir." — Atheneeum^ 1842. 
 
 Also, uniform, price Is. Qd. eacli. 
 THE CROCK OF GOLD. By Martin F. Tupper, Esq. 
 THE TWINS. By Martin F. Tupper, Esq. 
 HEART. By Martin F. TuppEtt, Esq. 
 THE DOUBLE CLAIM. By Mrs. T. K. Hervet. 
 TOIL AND TRIAL. By Mrs. Crosland. 
 HUMBOLDT'S LETTERS TO A LADY. By Dr. Stebbing, 
 
 " An extremely amusing volume for railway reading. 
 * * * They show familiar acquaintance with the habits 
 and manners of our ancestors." — Critic. 
 
 " A little volume of antiquarian tales, cleverly told ; 
 and in general sufficiently truthful as a picture of the 
 society they represent." — London Weekly Paper. 
 
 THE PARMER'S 
 
 In fcap. cloth, price 4s. 
 
 assistant and 
 
 AGRICULTURIST'S 
 
 CALENDAR. 
 
 By John Grieve. New and enlarged edition. 
 
 it, than from any work we have ever read. 
 
 "This is a very valuable work, by a thoroughly 
 practical man. It should be in the hands . of every 
 farmer, land-steward, farm-steward, drainer, and land- 
 surveyor. We have learned more from it on the theory 
 and practice of drainage, as well as the advantages of 
 
 We trust 
 the author will be no stranger to the public, and that 
 the public will acknowledge him as one of its bene- 
 factors." — Edinburgh Witness, 
 
 In crown 8vo., price 5s., cloth lettered. 
 
 THE EARTH AND ITS INHABITANTS. 
 
 By Margaret E. Darton. With Coloured Frontispiece. 
 
 ■*' One of the handsomest elementary works that ever 
 came into our hands. * * * It is also true to its purpose; 
 successful in realizing it, and as good as it is novel in 
 character." — Nonco nformist. 
 
 " The design of this little volume, which Is executed 
 with considerable ability and success, is to render the 
 study of geography less dry, by presenting the facts to 
 the mind of the pupil in an attractive and entertaining 
 form."— John Bull, 
 
 " This is the globe in type. We are here conducted 
 through both hemispheres, which we are enabled, at 
 a glance, to sweep, with the eye, from pole to pole. The 
 volume is, decidedly, the most comprehensive and 
 minute digest of geographical knowledge that exists." 
 — British Banner. 
 
 " Mrs. Barton's design is to make the study of 
 geography interesting to children, by lively sketches, 
 and entertaining facts." — Ecunomiit. 
 
 6th Edition, 16mo. 
 
 RODWELL'S CHILD'S EIRST 
 
 New Edition, Revised and Continued by 
 " This little work is admirably fitted to convey to the 
 minds of children the most important historical facts 
 in the annals of their own coimtry, being couched in 
 plain and simple language, with the ideas lucidly ex- 
 pressed. .Any difficult word or technical expression 
 that occurs, is. cleared up in a little conversation which 
 is appended to each chapter." — Educational Times. 
 
 cloth, price 2^. 6c?. 
 
 STEP to ENGLISH HISTORY. 
 
 Julia Corner, with numerous Illustrationa. 
 
 ^' A very excellent sketch of English history, admi- 
 rably adapted for little boys and girls." — Atlas. 
 
 "A book which shows a thorough appreciation of 
 what a child can understand, delight in, and profit by, 
 and which is written most pleasantly, and illustrated 
 largely and prettily."— JToBcon/ormis*. 
 
BASES OF BEl^iEF; 
 
 An Examinatioii- of Christianity, as a Divine Revelation, by the Light of Recognised 
 Facts and Principles. In four parts. By!!EtoW4»i? IfiALi,, M.p», , ' : ' ! ' 
 
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 argument, and power of expressiou'/ithafi no superior 
 among pul)lications of its plass. an^ very few equals. 
 * * The book is alike admirable for thought and for 
 language, A9 fi pletje of argumentative writing, it does 
 credit not only to the nftme itt hei^a, hut to the augufrt 
 asserahly in which he has been calledi ti9 speak and aet." 
 — Briiiah Banner, . 
 
 * ' We dope this volume with unfeigned respect for the 
 high powers of its author;^with .the feeling that we 
 have Dujcselves derived profit as, w^ell as pleasure from 
 its perusal ; and with the firm conYictioa that he has 
 
 , pre^jented . the age with a, work ,which will still the 
 doubts and allay the questionings of many, a cultivated 
 itttellect, and many an uneasy mind." — ■Weekly News. 
 ■ f'We predict a^ wide circulation for this volume; and 
 we iTust that the labour bestowed upon it may be 
 requited t^aa jnealcuiaible amount Af benefit, not only 
 to his own generatifiQ/but to Buc&eeding' ages/' — New 
 QiUarterhi S^ieui. 
 
 ' ' H^, Miall, A niost fit and 'able man to speak to the 
 intelligence c^ young jor old, supports in this volume 
 those Bases of Belmf Which' hare been commonly 
 regarded as the essential parts of Christian truth."— 
 ^xaminw* ■ ■•■' ■-> ' 
 
 Fcap. cloth, &f 
 
 MEMORIALS OF EARLY CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 By J. G. MiALL. With numerous Illustrations. 
 
 "We have here, in a comprehensive. form, >^1 -|hei 
 interesting facts of the earb' ages of the Christian 
 Church." — Bell's Messengef^ ' - ■ ■ - . ; 
 
 '.' An admirably arranged compendiumforfthe use of 
 youthftil jjead^ra."!— Ofttfrflfi end State G&zetfe. ' 
 
 "As an aid in the communication of valuable knpw- 
 ledge, and strengthening the foundations' of Christian 
 faith, the'voluihe'beforejlS commands attentive perusal. 
 The most important facts of early ecclesiastical history, 
 with such new lights as tnodem criticism siipplies, are 
 hei'e enlbodied in a sequent and collected form." — 
 Morning Advertiser. 
 
 "This is an interesting and useful^ wojk.; and is 
 illustrated with some well-executed wpod-euts. .It.is 
 
 n(^t a jjiere abstract of history, but the author has 
 brought' tB^ether the mjost ptriking features of early 
 Chtfrc^ history." — BHtamti&. 
 
 ,^'WU^bpi:ead,,witl\ interest by those wiio have never 
 read any other hist'o]^ 6^ the first three centuries." — 
 Qu(f.fdian. 
 
 '"The book is finely written, whije the senfiment 
 which pervades it is everywhere enlightened and, ev^- 
 gelical. in itself, it is an excellent introduction to 
 Church History; and we cannot conceive of a likelier 
 method of exciting a taste for that important spepies of 
 inqiiiry, than the perusal of tlfie present volume. We 
 m^y further observe, that it is richly illustrated, and 
 altog^ether a seemly perform^na|,"r7'^ff'>4'A Bamner, 
 
 SAINT PAUL. 
 
 ISnio; cloth, 2s, 
 
 Five Discourses hy the Rev. A^ Monod, 'of Paris. Translated by'Re^r. 'W. G. Babrett. 
 
 exceedingly faitl^fijl^ and the ananner ^n which these 
 
 'disooui'ses are wm'een,'1and--wfe*filay iad^,- translated, 
 
 mak^ them both interesting and instructive." — Patriot. 
 
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 "A more correct estimate of the great Apostlerand 
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 / "^ Thislita^ tbrhx^^dYoUiidd-^h: nobl^^btights and 
 fine U^^hoLP-^HiritmBi} ^'^' ^^^ ^ 
 
 " The whole conception of St. Paul's character is 
 
 of French preaching, — hi 
 
 .banner. -^ ! - ' ' ' ^ ■ i i ■ . j ^ i 1 ' 1 > 
 
 '' TneTjoo"^ is small;— not, so its merits,"— CAurcA and 
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 HiPPpLYTUS, AND IJflE CHRISTIAN CHURCH, 
 
 At the commenceniGnt of ,tii6 Third Century; with a* copious Analysis of the newly 
 discovered MS., and a translation of all its most importajit' parts, froiH the origitial 
 Greek. By W. Elfe Tatler, ftjiitljdi: "of ," Popery : its Qhaf acter and Crimea." 
 
 "Well and truly executed, and the importance pf 
 the volume can hardly be estima^jEQ. to(7 highlyL''-^ 
 Church and State Gazette. 
 
 " Mr. Tayler here puts forth his strength, atid brmgs 
 it to bearon some: ot the foljljesiof the present day. It 
 needhardly be said, thata wprkaonstitutedion this plan 
 cannot fail to ]}&io£iSpsc\0i.>Y^iie^'?-^OJMvaUaa,Wiii^»4 
 
 "A work. which we-^thinkiiwas imilich^needed/ito ac^ 
 quaint theordij^ary reader with,th&natuce andsubstance 
 
 of ' The Tr^ti^e,' ^& x£a£on». j^r^ assiffliiqg it to Hip- 
 poly tus, anil the particulars tliat are co Ibe gath^dd. 
 fcom it with respect to the; condlUon of the Church at 
 the early period m which it was written." — Critic, 
 
 *^This is an instruotiire and interesting digest of a 
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 tance. The idisGavery of the original MS. was an event 
 at which scholars, critics, students, and polemio writera 
 will rejoice. "-^£n^i«A Bannir. 
 
 Just Published, price Ss., in ,poat ;8yo. Tvith numerous EngravingSi 
 
 THE CELT, THE ROMAN/AND THE SAXON: 
 
 A History of the Early Inhabitants of Britain, down to "the Conversion of the Anglo- 
 Saxons to Ghristiaaity. . IJlustratefi by the Ancient Bomaina brot^ht tp ligljt by Recent 
 research; By TnoiiAS Weioht, fesQ.' M.A. F.I^.A.' 
 
 " Mr. Wright has very careftilly compiled and con- 
 densed the ncli stores of information at his command ; 
 and we think this ia the. best account of the domestic 
 manners of the early Britons, Romans, and Saxons, 
 which has yet been published. The work h amply 
 illustrated with engravings and wood-touts, which 
 materially assist jn explaining the text ; and the book is 
 
 altogether very creditable to the author, and deserving 
 of an extensive ohoulation." — Atlas. 
 
 ** An immense body of infonnation is prescribed in 
 its pages ; — infbrmation alwB.y8 interesting, sometimes 
 novel, and often most important ; which aeorresponding 
 number of wood-outs, elegantly designed, tend to 
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ROSALIE; 
 
 This day is published, price 35. Qd. nefttly bound, 
 
 Or, the Truth ahall make you Free. , An authentic .ITarr^ffcive, By UademoipeUe R. B. 
 De p ., With Introduction by the Rev. Joseph Eidgewat, , i , 
 
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 is, that the narrative is a true one, and is simply and 
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 *'Thi8 history, of a soul struggling o^it of the 
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 all the ohann,s of fiction with all tlie y^lue of truth. 
 Having perijsed thq volume ourselves with great 
 interest, we cannot do otherwise than give it our hearty 
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 it difficult to lay it aside tili the last page is reached. "7^ 
 Baptist Magaain^M , , 
 
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 NINEVEH AND PERSEPOLIS : 
 
 An HISTORICAL SKETCH of ANCIENT ASSYRIA and .PERSIA, with an Account 
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 our praise is far from being exaggerated."— ^eeft/^ 
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 " We can safely recommend it to the perusal of oiir 
 
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 " Nothing can be better ttian the spirit and temper in 
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 A MANUAL OF the, ANATOMY and PHYSIOLOGY of the 
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 ,,,By the Rev. J. Caelile, D.D. of Dublin and Parsonstpwn., 
 
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 *** The Fourth Vol., completing the wort, is in the Prefls- 
 
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 TRUE STORIES BY AN OLD WOMAN. 
 
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 PHILOSOPHY OP ATHEISM EXAMINED AND 
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axh fax i\t f onitg* 
 
 CANADIAN CRUSOES; 
 
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 HISTORICAL PRINTS OP ENGLISH 
 
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 , ' SON'S SCHOOL. A Book for Girls. By Jane 
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 BY MRS. S. C. HALL. 
 WITH NOTES AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY F. W. PAIRHOLT, P.R.S. 
 
 Among the interesting subjecta of this Volume will be found 
 
 The Birth-place of John Bunyan. 
 The Burial-place of John Hampden. 
 The Residence of Hannah More. 
 The Tomb of Sir Thomas Gresham. 
 The Tomb of Thomas Gray. 
 The Birth-^lace of Chatterton. 
 The Birth-place of Richard Wilson. 
 The House of Andrew Marvel. 
 The Tomb of John Stow. 
 The Heart of Sir Nicholas Crispe. 
 The Printing-office of Caxton. 
 
 Shaftesbury House. 
 
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 The Residence of Dr. Isaac Watts. 
 
 The Prison of Lady Mary Grey. 
 
 The Studio of Thos. Gainsborough. 
 
 The Town of John Kyrle. 
 
 The Tomb of William Hogarth. 
 
 The Grave of Izaak Walton. 
 
 The Grave of William Penn. 
 
 The Monument of Wren. 
 
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 £dgeworthstown« 
 
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 Esher — Residence of Jane Porter. 
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 The Grave of Grace Aguilar. 
 The Dwelling of Edmund Burlce. 
 The Remains of Clarendon House. 
 Flaxman's Monument. 
 The Village of Eyam. 
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 The Grave of Mrs. Hofland. 
 Chertsey and its Neighbourhood. 
 
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