ALBERT R. MANN . LIBRARY New York State Colleges OF Agriculture and Home Economics AT Cornell University Cornell University Library TX 731. F3 The party book, 3 1924 003 580 291 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003580291 ■4-» tn cS C THE PARTY BOOK BY WINNIFRED FALES AND MARY H. NORTHEND lUnatrated BOSTON nTTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1921 Copyright, WIS, By Little, Beown, and Comfant. AU rights reserved PREFATORY NOTE The authors desire to acknowledge the courtesy of the publishers of the Ladies' Home Journal, Good Housekeep- ing, Harper's Bazaar, The Housekeeper and Modern Pris- cilla, in permitting the inclusion of published material. Also of Dempsey and Carroll, New York, in supplying specially prepared samples of engraving, and the Den- nison Manufoi^uring^Qompany in giving permission to illustrate many of their exclusive designs in table acces- sories. CONTENTS PART I CHAFTEB PASII I. The Invitation 3 II. How TO Set the Table 12 III. FOEMAL AND InFOBMAL MeNXJS .... 24 PART II ?" IV. Centerpieces and Color Schemes ... 53 V. Jack Horner Pies 84 VI. Home -Made Candle Shades .... 122 ^-VII. Place Cards 134 x'VIII. Daintt Table Accessories 146 IX. Decorated Tables for Special Houdats . 170 X. Decorated Tables for Special Anniversa- ries AND Occasions 193 PART III XI. Refreshments 216 XII. Fancy Bottillons and Hot Dishes for Evening Parties and Late Suppers . . . .251 XIII. Ice Creams and Ices and New Wats of Serv- ing Them 262 XIV. Beverages 279 PART IV XV. Guessing Contests and Others . . . 295 XVI, Games, Old and New 319 Appendix 335 LIST OF PLATES II. III. IV. V. VI. y VII. T'VIII. IX. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. XX. An Easteb Pabtt Table . . . Frontispiece FACING PAOIl Wedding Invitation in Script .... 4 Wedding Invitation in Shaded Oia Eng- USH 6 Luncheon and Dinner Invitations . . 8 A Novel Table for St. Patrick's Dat . . 40 A Brownie Table for Hallow-e'en . . 41 Centerpieces 60 Centerpieces . ... . . 61 Decoration for Bridesmaids' Luncheon Table . 74 A Table Decorated with Smilax, Ribbon, AND Apple Blossoms 75 Standard Rose Jack Horner .... 94 Muff Jack Horner; Rabbit Pie for the Easter Party 95 The Rose Jack Horner 114 A Snowball Jack Horner for Christmas Party; Reindeer and Snowballs com- bined WITH Snowy Branches . . .115 Home - Made Candle Shades .... 124 Home - Made Candle Shades .... 125 Triple Heart Ice Basket; Rose Bonbon Basket .... .... 148 Arrow Nut Cup; Floral Rope Basket . 149 Irish " Pratie " for St. Patrick's Day; Shamrock Ice Cup 152 Shamrock Basket; Hollt Rope Bonbon Basket 153 LIST OF plates: PLATE PACING PAGH XXI. Rose and Cupid Ice Case; Eastee Candy Box 156 XXII. Patriotic Ice Case; the Jack o' Lantern 157 XXIII. Scalloped Bonbon Baskets . . .160 XXrV. The Christmas Clown; Witch Bonbon Box 161 XXV. Cheret Bonbon Box; Jonquil Entree Case 164 XXVI. Chicken Nut Cup; Satbst Rose on Stand- ard 165 XXVII. Rustic Ice Cup; Poppy Ice Case . . 168 XXVIII. A Simple Valentine Table . . .174 XXIX. Irish Jaunting Car filled with Favors . 175 XXX. Table with Effective Decoration of Corn and Turkeys 180 XXXI. Appeopeiate Thanksgiving Decorations 181 XXXII. Christmas Table with Bells . . .188 XXXIII. A GuMPSB OF the Frozen North . . 189 XXXIV. Debutante or Spring Luncheon Table . 194 XXXV. Table Decoeations of Jonquils and Pussy Willows for a Mbutante Luncheon 195 XXXVI. Decorations foe a Bridal Shower or an Engagement Luncheon .... 198 XXXVII. A Dainty Beidal Table .... 199 XXXVIII. Beide's Table, with Suspended Wedding Ring 202 XXXIX. Cotton Wedding Table . . . .203 XL. Golden Wedding Table .... 208 XLI. Golf Table 209 XLII. Faiey Toast; Barnard College Cake . 216 XLIII. Jam Dainties; Pears in Cream Puff Bas- kets 217 XLIV. Apricot Relish; Pineapple Dainty . 218 XLV. Raspbeeey Ceoustades; Paechment SCEOLLS 219 XLVI. Blarney Stones; Thanksgiving Cooky . 222 LIST OF PLATES XI FLATB XLVII. XLVIII. XLIX. L. LI. LII. LIII. LIV. LV. LVI. LVII. LVIII. LIX. FACING FAQI} Independence Day Cbackeks; Obange Cheese Balls 223 Okanqe Cups; Orange Dessbbt; Tbop- ico Sandwiches 226 Angel Nut Balls; Ducklings . . . 227 Hallow-e'en Cookies; Apeil Fool Kisses; Hallow-e'en Cakes 230 Individual Canakt Salad; Raisin Pas- ties 231 Ceab Canapes; Cheese Crispets . . 248 Hot Oysters; Pineapple Surprise . . 249 A Valentine Ice; Orange Charlotte . 268 Sandwich au Makrons; Frozen Oranges 269 Grape Delight; Chocolate Marshmal- Low Sundae 270 Orange Pineapple Sundae; Strawberry Dainty 271 Banana Trifle; Castles in Spain . . 278 Service for Five o' Clock Tea; a Pretty Lemonade Service which could also be USED fob Iced Tea 279 PART I THE PARTY BOOK CHAPTER I THE INVITATION Save for the most informal affairs, the engraved invitation has almost entirely superseded that written by hand. This is doubtless due in part to the fact that engraved blank forms, on which the date and chaK,cter of the entertainment can be fiUe^an wimi wen and ink, are now con- sidered permssibldt so that it is no longer neces- sary to inciqlth^expense of having a new plate engraved for every ^occasion. Many hostesses keep a supply of these blank forms constantly on hand. . \ The importance of the quality and style of the invitation can hardly be overestimated. Correctly phrased, and engraved in approved 4 THE PARTY BOOK fashion on fine stock, it testifies to the sender's familiarity with the usages of the best society. For this reason it is a fatal mistake to employ an inferior engraver for the sake of a small saving in cost. Remember that, Uke the visiting card, the invitation is the personal representative of the one who issues it; so let both material and workmanship be of the best. Within recent years, the use of a card instead of a folded sheet for invitations other than wed- dings and the most formal dinners, has become quite general. Either plate or suede finished stock may be used with perfect propriety, but the latter is considered a little more elegant. The double envelope is invariably used for folded sheets — the inner one being ungummed and bearing only the name without the address — and the single envelope for cards. The most fashionable styles of engraving for wedding invitations at the present time are Shaded Old English and Shaded Roman. Less expensive than either is the medium heavy Script, which is always in good form, although the very fact of its lower cost causes it to be shimned by the ultra-fashionable. PLATE II. THE INVITATION 5 Examples of both the Script and Old EngUsh are given on Plates II and III. It will be noticed that both invitations are for church weddings, hence the ceremonious phrase, " request the honor of your presence," For home weddings the less formal, " request the pleasure of your company," is used instead. In still another form, the words " your com- pany " are omitted from the second line, which is followed by a blank space in which the hostess writes the name of the intended recipient. The third line then reads, " company at the marriage of — " etc. This is thought to give to the invitation a little personal touch that is lacking in the ordinary formula, the only draw- back being the extra amount of labor involved. A wedding iuAatation is always issued in the names of both parents, if living: otherwise, in that of the surviving one. In case the bride elect is an orphan, the invitations may be issued by the nearest of kin, by a guardian, or even by the parents of the bridegroom. Accompanying the invitation to a church wedding, there should be a card of admission, reading simply: 6 THE PARTY BOOK Please present this card at Saint Bartholomew's Church on Thursday afternoon the tenth of June. There may also be a card for the reception, and an " At Home " card, the forms being as follows : Reception from half after three imtil five o'clock Six hundred and eighty Fifth Avenue. At Home After the first of September Sixty-three Elm Street Bronxville, New York. A separate card m^ust be used for each pur- pose. It is the grossest breach of etiquette, for instance, to engrave the At Home announce- ment in the comer of the wedding invitation. For invitations to all functions other than weddings, the medium heavy Script is the ac- cepted style of engraving. For small afternoon teas it is still considered proper to send the visit- ing card with the date and hours written in the lower, left-hand corner; but for the more elabo- rate " At Homes " a specially engraved card, for large affairs, a folded sheet, is usually sent. If ^,v, jtH^ ciftjTjjir, ^ifnAf^ J^tnvyr STiccwcr ;>J^ JfxK xlStex itMa: 'f^ticsth PIATE III. THE INVITATION 7 a friend is receiving with the lady of the house, her name should also appear on the invita- tion. The name of the host rarely appears on an invitation for an afternoon fimction, and never on that for a ball, but invitations to dinners, evening receptions and weddings are always issued jointly. In the case of a widow, the mar- ried name should be used : " Mrs. John Sherwood Tomkyns," not " Mrs. Catherine Adams Tom- kyns." On the other hand, it is considered improper for a gentleman to send invitations to ladies in his name alone, the only exception being when a father who is a widower sends out invitations for his daughter's wedding. On all other occa- sions, his daughter or a near relative would assist him in receiving, and her name should always be joined with his on the invitations. A bachelor, desiring to entertain ladies, in- vites a woman relative or a married friend to assist, the invitations being sent out in both her name and his. The abbreviation " R. S. V. P." is practically obsolete, the favored form at present being 8 THE PARTY BOOK " Please respond," varied occasionally by " An early reply is requested," although by many this is felt to be a trifle too urgent. As a matter of fact, the prospective guests are supposed to be sufficiently conversant with social conventions to know when an answer is required, and to possess the courtesy to send it without the necessity of a reminder. To the everlasting discredit of American society, however, it must be reluctantly confessed that owing to an almost universal carelessness and lack of consideration in this regard, many hostesses feel compelled to continue the use of a phrase which common politeness should make superfluous. The foregoing applies only to luncheons, din- ners, wedding breakfasts and evening functions where supper is to be served, especially to those held at hotels, where it is very necessary for the hostess to know how many will be present, before completing her order. One of the minor changes in form which has taken place within the last decade, is in the manner of writing the date. Until recently the accepted style was to place the name of the month first, the date following, as: " October <^ PLATE IV. THE INVITATION 9 the twenty-eighth." This method is still used to a small extent, but the preferred form is " Thurs- day the twenty-eighth of October." On all ex- cept " At Home " cards, the word " afternoon " or " evening " should also appear. A most important rule is that forbidding the use of abbreviations other than " Mr." and " Mrs." " Doctor Charles Edward Mortimer," not " Dr. Charles E. Mortimer," nor " Chas. E. Mortimer, M.D." The only exception to this rule — which includes the spelling of dates and street numbers as well as of proper names — is in the case of a name otherwise too long to be engraved on one line. Naturally, such a con- tingency very rarely arises. When invitations for a dinner or reception are issued in honor of a distinguished guest, the name of the latter should precede that of the host, as in the example given. This is a complete reversal of the form in use imtil quite recently, but must be admitted to express a finer courtesy than that in which the name of the host takes precedence. It is frequently asked whether invitations should be sent to persons in movuning, and the 10 THE PARTY BOOK answer is, by all means, after the first month. There is no reason for adding to the burden of grief by letting the bereaved feel themselves forgotten by their friends. Of course it is under- stood on both sides that the invitation will not be accepted, but it is nevertheless a pleasure to the recipient to feel herself remembered, and after the first month of mourning, invitations should be sent as usual with the exception of those for dinner and luncheon. It is not considered good form to address an invitation to the " Messrs. Brown." Each male member of a family should receive a separate card. On the other hand, it is perfectly proper to address an invitation for sisters to " The Misses Brown." For informal festivities, invita- tions are nowadays frequently given and ac- cepted over the telephone, but it is advisable to supplement them with a note, both as a matter of courtesy, and in order to avoid any possibiUty of a misunderstanding with regard to the day and hour. It is now considered perfectly cor- rect to send invitations by mail, with the excep- tion that in some of the smaller towns, those for dinner are still delivered by private messenger. THE INVITATION 11 This distinction is waived, however, in the larger cities, where the long distances between the homes of one's friends render such a course im- practicable. CHAPTER II HOW TO SET THE TABLE LUNCHEON To many hostesses of the older generation, a table minus a cloth gives an impression of bare- ness and incompleteness. For the benefit of such, it may be stated most emphatically that fine damask is never out of fashion, and that she whose handsome table linen is her special pride, may display it to her heart's content without fear of falling imder the ban of that social bogey — Bad Form. It is nevertheless true that the bare table is at present favored for luncheon, and to the un- prejudiced the fashion has much to commend it. The laimdering of the doilies used beneath plates and dishes is far less costly and laborious than that of a large and heavy table-cloth. Then, too, it is extremely monotonous to have the table always set in the same way, and the daily HOW, TO SET THE TABLE 13 change from the bare table at luncheon to the covered one at dinner, is consequently an agree- able one to the majority. In setting the luncheon table, begin with the centerpiece of lace or embroidered linen. On this arrange the flowers or whatever is to be used as the principal decoration of the table. If the former are selected, as soon as a satisfactory efifect has been assured, remove them to a cool place until the last moment before announcing luncheon, in order to prevent wilting. Next in order are the candlesticks. These may be of any style or number, two or four being most commonly used. Colonial styles in clear crystal are much liked, and silver is of course always appropriate. For carrying out special schemes of decoration, or for certain holidays, china, brass and even wood are sometimes used, but these are the exceptions rather than the rule. The shades may be of silver, beads, silk or paper, and they, as well as the candles, should harmonize with the color motif selected for the table as a whole. On a roxmd table, two, three, or four candle- sticks may stand just beyond the edge of the 14 THE PARTY BOOK centerpiece, at equal distances from each other, or near the edge of the table, their number de- pending upon that of the covers laid. One candle to every two guests is a good rule. On a square table, they are either grouped around the centerpiece, or placed at the four corners, while on a long table the usual plan is to place them at regular intervals along the center. Occasionally, however, they are arranged in a double row, on either side of the table and about twenty-four inches from each edge, in the propor- tion of one candlestick to every two or three covers. This arrangement would of course only be effective on a very wide table. If candelabra are used instead of single sticks, do not have them so high as to interfere with conversation across the table. Should it be de- sired to use an elaborate candelabrum as the central decoration, surround it by low bowls of flowers, placed at equal distances from the base and from one another. The next step in arranging the table is to lay at each place a doily of suitable size, allowing for at least twenty-four inches between the plates. Some hostesses use doilies which will HOW TO SET THE TABLE 15 just accommodate the latter, while others prefer one large enough to permit the silver to rest upon it as well, thus not only avoiding the clatter of knives and forks against the bare wood, but also the possibility of injury to the polished sur- face. If the smaller size is used, put a tiny doily at the top of the cover — that is toward the center of the table — and to the right, where it will be opposite the ends of the knife blades, and on it stand the water glass. To the left, opposite the ends of the forks, place a slightly larger doily for the bread and butter plate, whose use is one of the chief distinctions between the luncheon and the dinner table. The doilies should all be of the same pattern, and should match the centerpiece if possible. If they have plain linen centers — which are the most practical — asbes- tos mats may be used beneath the place doilies to protect the table from the hot plates. This plan also eliminates the possibility of noise when plates are changed between the courses. Lay diagonally across the bread and butter plates, the silver spreaders; then arrange the remainder of the silver. Various writers on this 16 iTHE PARTY BOOK subject have made very positive and precisely contradictory statements regarding the number of knives and forks for each cover; but as the silver service must naturally correspond with the number and character of the courses, there can be no hard and fast rule other than the now generally accepted one that the forks or spoons to be used for the sweets and dessert should not be placed on the table in advance, with the rest of the silver, but brought in when they are served. If, for example, the luncheon menu is to consist of fruit cocktail, bouillon, an entree, game, salad and an ice, there should be on the right of the plate, with blades turned toward it and the ends of the handles half an inch from the table edge, a knife for the game, one for the entree — unless it is a dish for which no knife is required, such as creamed sweetbreads — and a bouillon spoon. A few authorities advocate arranging the silver from the plate outward, in the order in which it is to be used, and a still smaller number place the spoon between two knives; but the vast majority agree on the far more sensible plan of starting at the point farthest from the plate, and working toward it. HOW TO SET THE TABLE 17 In the present instance, therefore, the bouillon spoon will be on the outside, then the entree knife and lastly the game knife, close to the plate; while laid diagonally across all three, will be an oyster fork or a special fruit fork for the cocktail. On the left side, following the same method, the entree fork will be placed farthest from the plate, then the game, and lastly the salad fork. Menu cards are not used for luncheon, except for some special occasion like an April Fool or Hallowe'en affair, where the names of the dishes are written in the form of conun- drums, or have some special bearing upon the character of the entertainment. The place cards should either be hung upon the rims of the water glasses, or stand between them and the bread and butter plates, together with the individual salt dishes. Lay the napkins, folded square, in the plates, or at the left of the forks if the first course is to be served before the meal is an- nounced, and complete the setting of the table by placing here and there, on small doilies, fancy dishes containing salted nuts, olives and bon- bons. - 18 THE PARTY BOOK THE DINNER TABLE The chief diflferences between the dinner and the liincheon table are in the presence of the cloth on the former, and the absence of the bread and butter plate. The silence cloth is first laid, serving the double purpose of ensuring noiseless service, and protecting the surface of the table from injury by hot dishes. Cotton flannel is frequently used, but is rather too thin, the thick knitted padding or the asbestos pads being preferable. The knitted material comes by the; yard, and the asbestos pads in sections which permit adjustment to a table of any size by simply adding or removing one or more sections. Over the silence cloth is spread the cover of lace or damask, which should have been ironed with a single fold down the center and rolled on a long mailing tube or a section of curtain pole to prevent creasing. The centerpiece and candles are next arranged, and if the table is a long one, the central decoration is usually flanked by baskets of fruit or low vases of flowers, all of which may be connected by loose garlands of HOW TO SET THE TABLE 19 smilax running nearly to the ends of the table. The napkins, with the dinner rolls inside, may- be placed at the left of the forks if desired, but it is considered rather better form to lay them on the plates. If menu cards are used, let them lean against the napkins unless, as at some very elaborate dinners, bouquets for the ladies and boutonnieres for the gentlemen are arranged in silver holders in the spaces occupied at luncheon by the bread and butter plates. In this case, the menus may lean against the hold- ers. If there are favors, place them at the left of the covers, beyond the forks. It is no longer fashionable to present gifts of valuable jewelry or costly articles of gold and silver to dinner guests. If favors are used, they should either be in the form of some quaint and amusing symbol of the day or occasion, or trinkets of no intrinsic value, whose charm lies in their dainti- ness or ingenuity of design. In many instances, the favors take the form of fancy receptacles for bonbons or ices. In the latter case, the ice is placed in a paper cup which fits into the reeep- 20 THE PARTY BOOK tacle and may be removed when emptied, leaving the favor itself clean and dry. DESSERT AND THE FINGER BOWL The formal dinner is divided into three parts: the oysters and soup, which may be termed pre- liminary courses; the heavy dishes of fish, meat, poultry and vegetables; and the dessert, which in this sense is loosely used to include the sweet dishes as well as the cheese, ices, fruits and coffee. The most noticeable point /of division is that between the salad and the sweets; for when the former has been finished, the table must be cleared of everything pertaining to the earUer courses, even to the salt dishes and oHves, and the crumbs carefully removed either with a folded napkin or a scraper. Only the nuts, bonbons, and the decorations remain. The sweet course is then served, the necessary forks or spoons being laid beside the plates. The ices follow, accompanied nowadays by a special httle fork instead of a spoon, and then the cheese and crackers. Finally, before each person is placed a fruit plate, on which are a doily and a finger bowl. The latter is frequently of Russian or HOW TO SET THE TABLE 21 Benares brass at the present time, but the prefer- ence for metal is not likely to be permanent, and either plain or engraved crystal is always in perfect taste. A slice of lemon or a rose gera- nium leaf is often placed in the water, and the fad of the moment is to have a tiny waxen swan floating on the surface. As the plate is set before each guest, he or she hfts the bowl and doily and places them on the table on the farther side, leaving the plate empty for the fruit, which is then passed by the waiter. When the course is finished, the plates are removed and the bowls drawn to the front of the table, the finger-tips dipped in the water and dried on the napkins. The coffee then closes the repast, served either at table or in the drawing-room, at the option of the hostess, and with or without cordials. Last of all, it is the fashion just now to pass mint confections, which leave a clean, refreshing taste in the mouth and an agreeable odor on the breath. THE BUFFET SUPPER The table may be spread and decorated as for luncheon or dinner, but there the resemblance 22 THE PARTY BOOK ends. At the four comers, where thtey can easily be reached by the waiters, or by the gentle- men if they are to serve the ladies, arrange low stacks of alternate plates and folded napkins. At one end should be the coffee service on a tray, and two or more salvers for passing the filled cups, cream and sugar. At the opposite end may be the punch bowl. Along the sides put rows of forks and spoons, and the eatables, attractively arranged and garnished. A CHAFING-DISH SUPPER This may be a " sit-down " aflfair or other- wise, the only difference, so far as the table is concerned, being in the arrangement of the necessary plates and silver. In either case, let the chafing-dish and appurtenances stand at one end, or, if desired, there may be one at each end, presided over by the hostess and some friend who is skilled in that fascinatrug style of cookery. Another guest may be invited to mix the salad in a large bowl at one side of the table, the vege- tables and condiments being grouped around it, ready to hand. If the household boasts an elec- tric toaster, the bread for the rabbit, Newburg, HOW TO SET THE TABLE 23 or whatever comestible is to be the piece de re- sistance, may be toasted on the table. Other- wise it should be prepared in the kitchen and brought in at the psychological moment. The very informality of a party where the guests take part in the preparations and wait on one another, makes for jollity and good- fellowship, and invests the aflFair with a charm that is never attained by the more stately fimctions where convention rules. CHAPTER III FORMAL AND INFORMAL MENUS The formal dinner menu of to-day differs ma- terially from that of a hundred — fifty — even twenty-five years ago. Owing in part, doubtless, to the growth of popular interest in dietetics, more, perhaps, to the increased cost of food- stuffs, and most of all, let us pride ourselves, to a dawning sense of decency, diners-out are no longer compelled to plod through fifteen or twenty courses of heavy, indigestible viands, washed down — literally — with an inordinate quantity and variety of wines and cordials. By degrees, the number of entrees has shrunken from five or six to one, or, at most, two. Thte " cold cuts " have vanished; the " releves " and roasts have been reduced to one each; while as for the cold sweets and hot sweets, of which the assortment served at a single meal might include fresh, dried, preserved and crystallized fruits, several kinds of cake, jellies, custards, rich pud- MENUS 25 ding and blanc mange, only a cold or a hot sweet dish is now served, followed by an ice, a little fresh fruit and a few confections. The proper arrangement of the courses for a formal dinner is as follows: MENU Oysters Soup Hors d'oeuvre Fish First Entree Second Entree Roast Punch or Sherbet Game or Poultry Salad Hot or Cold Sweet Dishes Ices Fruit Cheese Coffee Like all good rules, this one has several excep- tions, and before stating them it may be as well to straighten out one point that may prove puzzling to a reader who consults the encyclo- paedic cookery books of the great chefs. In some of these it is stated with an air of greatest authority that the entries precede the roast, 26 THE PARTY BOOK which in turn is followed by sherbet, game and salad. In others, the entrees are said to be fol- lowed by a " remove " or " releve," while the roast is tucked away down at the bottom of the menu just before the salad and sweets. The mystery is easily solved, however; for by a com- parison of sample menus from both classes of volumes, it will be discovered that it is only the nomenclature which varies, some writers using the term roast to designate the saddle or fillet or other heavy meat dish which is the principal feature of the first half of the meal, while others apply it to the game which graces the second half. In either case, it is immediately preceded by the entrees, so that the case appears to be one of those in which you pay your money and take your choice — the more so as on many occasions the roast and game courses are com- bined by compromising on a capon, turkey or pair of ducks. But to our muttons — otherwise, our excep- tions. The first one might be put in the form of a conundrum: "when is an oyster not an oyster? " Answer: when it is a clam. In other and less cryptic terms, since the slippery blue- MENUS 27 point suffers a loss of reputation during certain months of the year, a substitute must be found. This is almost invariably the little-neck clam, which, like many dramatic and operatic under- studies, threatens to steal the laurels from the star performer. Other exceptions are made in regard to the salad and dessert. More often than not, the former is served with the game, instead of as a separate course, while the sweet dishes are not infrequently conspicuous by their absence, an ice of some description, with a few small fancy cakes, cheese with crackers, fruit and coffee being all-suflScient. On the other hand, if a pudding, custard, or jelly is served, the ice is often omitted. Diversity of opinion among the highest au- thorities extends even to menu cards, it being stated with equal positiveness that they " are now out of fashion except for pubhc and semi- public banquets," and that they " must invari- ably be used at all but the most informal din- ners." It is therefore left to the convenience of the hostess to say which ruling she will adopt. As menu cards are an aid to the carrying out of 28 THE PARTY BOOK the decorative scheme, their use is to be rec- ommended from that standpoint, at least. For small dinner parties they may be neatly written or lettered by hand, the cards themselves being either purchased from a stationer or printer, or made at home to conform to the guest cards and table decorations. An amusing idea, suited to all but the most stately occasions, is to intersperse the menu with quotations appropriate to the different viands. A wealth of material can be obtained from the various cyclopedias of quotations on the market, two of which — Quotations for Occasions, by Katherine B. Wood and Books and My Food, by Elizabeth Luther Gary — are devoted exclu- sively to sentiments which apply, or are most divertingly misapplied, to entertajining in^its various branches. Their use is aptly illustrated by the following example, which is alsocorrect as to form. (Note that the hors-d'oeuvres'do not appear on the menu, and that the sorbet is merely given a separate line but does not appear as a distinct course.) MENUS 29 " Feast with the best, and welcome to my house." Taming of the Shrew, V, 2. MENU GoNsouMB Celgbtikd " A hot friend cooling." Julius Csesar, V, 2. 9 Chicken Halibut Viennese Potatoes " Prom the rude sea's enraged and foamy mouth." Twelfth Night, V, 1. " Let the sky rain potatoes." Merry Wives of Windsor, V, 5. * Cbbamed Swbetbbeads in Red Fefpebs " A morsel for a monarch." Antony and Cleopatra, I, 6. AsFARAGtrs " Fingers were made before forks." Smft, Polite ConversationB. 9 GbiixiBd Bbeabt of Mtttton Mushroom Sauce "What's this? Mutton?" Taming of the Shrew, IV, 1. ** I came upstairs into the world, for I was bom in a cellar." Congreve, Love for Love. Grilled Tomatoes " A dish fit for the gods." Julius Caesar, II, 1. * Sorbet "So coldly sweet." Byron, Giaour. 30 THE PARTY BOOK Boast Capon, Chestnut Debssinq Romainb "Stuffed with all honourable virtues." Much Ado About Nothing, 1, 1. " I warrant there's vinegar and pepper in't." Twelfth Night, III, 4. 9 RiCB Choqtjbttes with Orange-baspberet Saticb " Any pretty little tiny kickshaws, teU William cook." Henry IV, V, 1. Frozen PoDDiNa Fancy Cakes Brie Fruit " "Tis the dessert that graces all the feast. For an ill end disparages the rest." W, King, Art of Cookery. Coffee " And for my soul I cannot sleep a wink." Pope, Satires, 1. Hors-d'oeuvres may include such hot dainties as timbales, croustiades and mousselines, or cold ones as caviare, anchovies, olives, radishes," ca- napes and tunny fish. The soup served at a formal dinner is usually clear, unless a choice is given, in which case one clear and one thick soup should be prepared. Entrees. If two are served, let the first be light and the second heavy. Sea foods in some style — as lobster timbales, oyster pates, etc. — are MENUS 31 popular as first entrees. The second should be accompanied by a vegetable. Fish, if boiled or baked, is served with pota- toes. When broiled or cooked in some fancy manner, cucumber salad is the correct accom- paniment. The roast may be either a saddle, or a tender- loin, or poultry. It is accompanied by one or two vegetables. ^ , The punch or sorbet is served in small glasses, and may accompany the game course instead of being served separately. ^ Game may range all the way from reed birds to pheasant. If poultry has been served as a roast, this course consists preferably of very small birds, or it may be omitted altogether. The salad should be cold, crisp, light and pimgent. Romaine or lettuce hearts, which have been dressed with oil and Tarragon vinegar in a bowl previously rubbed with garlic, are the fa- vorites. Chicken and lobster are " bad form," merely because too heavy to be enjoyable so near the close of the meal. As previously stated, the salad is often served with the game instead of following it. 32 THE PARTY BOOK Sweet dishes include puddings and pies, cake, jelly, custards, all sorts of molded dishes, fancy- pastry pancakes, fritters and souffles. Dessert is what a noted etymologist once called an " umbrella word," because it covers so many things. The majority of us use it improperly, and having partaken of pie or pudding, believe that we have had dessert. As a matter of fact, we have had a sweet, as dessert properly in- cludes only cheese, fruit, ice-cream and bon- bons. The coffee should be strong, black and fra- grant, and served in small cups, accompanied by sugar but no cream. (As tasse means cup, let us avoid the too common error of saying " demi- tasse cup.") HOT WEATHER MENUS Assuming the hostess to be in the country or at the seashore, the menu for the summer dinner party will differ in many respects from that of winter. Formality is relaxed and more consid- eration given to comfort and convenience. The viands are lighter in character, and more cold dishes are served. Grapefruit sometimes re- MENUS 33 places or precedes the clams, and soup may be omitted or served cold or jellied. Fried dishes should be avoided, and the sauces should be acid whenever possible. If near the shore, sea food of all descriptions will of course figure con- spicuously on the bill of fare. Sweet dishes are better tabooed, ice-creams and particulariy fruit water-ices being infinitely more grateful and refreshing. Whatever the season of the year, the eye as well as the palate should be consulted in making up the menu. The simplest dish, tastefully garnished and served, is enjoyed far more than an elaborate one badly served. Vary the color as much as possible from course to course, al- ways remembering to avoid anything that will clash with the table decorations. A French rule is to have every sauce of a different color, this being easily accomplished with the aid of eggs, caramel and vegetable coloring. THE LUNCHEON MENU For elaborate limcheons, there is but little difference between the menus for luncheon and those for dinner, except that the dishes are usu- 34 THE PARTY BOOK ally lighter in character, and that it is the rule rather than the exception to combine the roast and game courses, poultry or birds being pre- ferred in most cases to solid roasts of beef and mutton. This is another of those cases, however, where the hostess may feel at liberty to exercise her own discretion. Bouillon, served in cups, replaces the heavier soups, and is made most appetizing by floating a spoonful of salted, whipped cream or white of egg on the surface of each portion. Grapefruit or a fruit cocktail frequently opens the meal, in which case clams are omitted. The following sample menu gives an excellent idea of the character of the dishes suitable for a luncheon. In Order to show how the succession of colors is planned, the garnish- ments and sauces are given in parentheses. They would not of course appear on the cards. For a hot weather luncheon, raspberry ice-cream or chilled watermelon might replace the sweet course. It will be noticed that the colors red, green and white appear successively, and it may therefore be assumed that the table deco- rations would be red for a winter, and green and white for a summer luncheon. MENUS 35 MENU Grapefruit Cocktail (Garnished with mint — green — and maraschino — red — cher- ries) Chicken Bouillon (Whipped cream on top) — white Celery {white) Olives (green) Lobster Cutlets (Garnished with sweet Spajiish peppers and parsley — red and Roast Guinea Hen (Garnished with parsley) Riced Potato {white) Currant Jelly {red) French Peas {green) Salad Macedoine (Romaine, tomatoes and celery — green, red and white — with whipped cream mayonnaise — white — garnished with sliced stuffed olives — green and red — parsley — green — and the whites of hard boiled eggs stamped out in fancy shapes) Strawberry Marmalade Pancakes (or raspberry ice, or frapp^d watermelon — red) Cheese {white) Crackers Coffee AFTERNOON TEAS An afternoon tea is properly a simple and very informal aflFair. There is no set table, the tea- tray being brought in by a maid, and the bev- erage prepared by the hostess and served with only very thin bread and butter, hot tea cakes. 36 THE PARTY BOOK or delicate wafers as an accompaniment. The tea-table is merely a convenient focusing p^oint for a small group of congenial friends, and af- fords a graceful and very enjoyable means of dispensing hospitality. The function commonly known to American society as a " tea," is, however, an entirely dif- ferent matter, being in reality an afternoon re- ception. The dining table, prettily decorated with flowers and candles, has usually a large tea- urn at one end, and a coffee or chocolate service at the other, presided over by friends of the hostess, the space between being filled with plates of cakes and sandwiches, bonbons, oKves and even salads, with bouillon in cold weather. Ices are customarily served, and there may be a punch bowl on a small side table. Friends of the hostess serve all the refreshments as a rule, but there should be a maid in attendance to remove the soiled cups and plates and bring in clean ones. SUPPER PARTIES The old-fashioned supper party, with the guests seated at the table, is being revived. The MENUS 37 menu is of course less elaborate than that for dinner, but follows the same general order. First, clams or oysters, either on the half-shell or in the form of cocktails; then bouillon, en tasse, followed by an entree such as sweetbreads a la financiere, crabmeat fricassee, or lobster croquettes. Next, some sort of game, in season, and salad of any sort, the two often served to- gether; and finally, ices, fruit and bonbons. Of course a much simpler supper may be served with perfect propriety, especially when the hour is very late, as, for example, after the theater or opera. Clams or oysters, an entree, or possibly only a lobster or chicken salad, with an ice to follow, is in perfectly good form, while for a small, impromptu party, a rabbit, a New- burg, or creamed oysters, prepared at table in the chafing-dish, and accompanied, save in the first instance, by crackers, cheese, coffee, and perhaps a bottle of beer or ale, are deemed suffi- cient. Supper at a dancing party or cotillion is usu- ally of the buffet type, the dishes all being ar- ranged on a large table, from which the gentle- men serve the ladies. P4te de foies gras, chicken 38 THE PARTY BOOK in aspic, salads of all descriptions, croquettes, cakes, jellies, ices and bonbons may be men- tioned among the suitable dishes for such occa- sions, the number and variety served at one time being entirely at the discretion of the hostess. The following suggestions are merely intended to show how mystifying and amusing menus for informal entertainments can be worked out with the aid of symbols and plays upon words. By following similar methods, the hostess will be able to evolve numberiess variations to suit all occasions. A NEW YEAR'S SUPPER (Each article on the bill of fare commencing with the sound of " new.") Newbtjrq (Lobater) Newmabket Sandwiches (Chopped haxd-boiled eggs, capers and celery) Newbttrt Salad (Tomatoes, cress, carrots and a grated onion. Mayonnaise dressing) New York Ice-cream New Year's Cakes Nouqat New-made Coffee The cakes may be any kind of rich cup cakes, covered with white icing, on which the date of MENUS 39 the New Year is marked with melted chocolate. New York ice-cream was invented by a famous chef. The recipe is as follows: Three cupfuls of milk, one-fourth pound of gelatine and ten tablespoonfuls of sugar. Heat slowly to boiling point, stirring to aid in dissolving the gelatine. Flavor with vanilla. Beat the yolks of ten eggs with a little cold milk, add the boiling milk, and strain into the freezer. When it begins to freeze, whip one cup of cream to a stiff froth, and beat into the mixture. A VALENTINE LUNCHEON Otbtebs a la St. Valenhnb (Oysters on the half-shell, each garnished with a small heart cut from a sweet red pepper with a tin cutter) Lovers' Potion (Bouillon containing paste hearts) Sakdinb Rings (Split sardines along one side and fill with a mixture composed of bread crumbs and oil from the can, highly seasoned with mustard, cayenne and onion juice. Fasten heads and tails together to form rings, and grill. When done, remove skewers) Sweethearts (Sweetbread patties in heart forms) Love Birds (Any small birds, on toast) 40 THE PARTY BOOK Valbntinb Salad (Any preferred Balad served in individual, heart-shaped paper cases, with a gilt metal arrow thrust into each) Cupms (Ices in Cupid molds) Bride Cake Kisses A COLONIAL TEA This would be appropriate either for Wash- ington's Birthday, or Independence Day. If used for the former, it might be called a Lady Washington Tea. The list of refreshments was copied from an old cookery book of the colonial period. Of course the hostess may modify it to suit her own convenience. " The dishes proper for a handsome tea-table are: Tea and coffee; light biscuit, with honey; cold ham, glazed thickly all over with a mixture of bread-crumbs, cream and yolk of egg; two smoked tongues, one placed in the center of the platter, the other cut into slices and laid around it; hot game pie; chicken or lobster salad; oyster patties, sweetmeats, mixed cakes, blanc-mange and plum cake." A SAINT PATRICK'S DAY DINNER MuBPHT Bisque (Potato soup) Shillaxahs (Bread sticks) Chicken Paddies with Emeralds (Chicken patties with peas) Duck a la Dublih Greens (Spinach) e V "? ^ _o c3 1-5 w > &4 W e4-< H -2 -