IDERY -ESSON6 ^' [feSRAINERDScARi^STRpNG Co. few London, CoKN.. Brainerd & Armstrong's High • Grade Dress Silks FOR WAIST5, SKIRTS AND DRESS LININQS. EVERYONE who has ever used the Brainerd & Armstrong Spool Sewing and Wasli Embroidery Sillcs knows the superior quality of the goods manufactured by this company. For some years now we have had several hundred looms employed in the manufacture of BLACK DRESS SILKS. These goods stand among Silk Fabrics where our spool and skein silks stand among silk threads — strictly Higliest Quality, always Satisfactory, our Reputation and Guarantee behind all. [Trade Mark.] Ladies who have once used our Dress Silks say they have never found any in the market, at any price, which give as satisfactory service. A dressmaker who makes hundreds of garments a year, upon using our Taffeta for the first time, states that she found it so pliable that it could be drawn through a small hoop and so firm thai, when the finished skirt was placed on the floor, it stood alone. YOUR NEXT SILK WAIST, SKIRT OR DRESS LINING will please you better and give you better service than the best you have ever worn if made of our Dress Silks. Buy the Best. Your garment will last twice as long and give you twice the satisfaction every day you wear it. The Dress Silks in the following list will give you Best Value, Best Service and Best Satisfaction : Black Silk Taffeta In 19, 21, 22, 24, 27 and 36-lnch Widths. Colored Silk Taffeta (Popular Colors) In 19 and 27-Inch Widths. Black Silk Peau de Sole la 20 21, and 22-Inch Widths. Black Silk Satin In 21, 22 and 30-lach Widths. Colored Silk Satin (Grays and Tans for Linings) In 2J, 27 and 36-Inch Widths. Black Silk Duchess In 20, 21 and 22-iach Widths. Colored Silk Duchess (Popular Colors) in 20-inch Width. Black Silk Peau de Cygne in 20 and 24-lach Widths. Colored Silk Peau de Cygne {Popular Colors) In 20-inch Width Black Silk Loulsine in 21-inch Width. Colored Silk Loulsine (Popular Colors) la 21-Inch Width. Black Silk Armure in 21-inch Width. Colored Silk Armure (Popular Colors) In 21-lach Width. C A M p I p Q furnished on receipt of request with 4 cents for each sample. In writing us ^^^^^^^^___^^_ about Colored Dress Silks be sure and enclose clipping of goods you wish to match. In reply to all such inquiries, we will immediately send samples, giving width, prices and full information as to how and where the goods can be obtained. Your Money Back, if any of our goods upon receipt do not prove entirely satisfactory. Adcjress THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO., ^ 100 UNION STREET, .... NEW LONDON, CONN. EMBROIDERY LESSONS WITH COLORED STUDIES igo8 Latest and Most Complete Book on the Subject of Silk Embroidery and Popular Fancy Work. EDITED BY A CORPS OF EXPERT EMBROIDERERS. UXDKR THE DIRECTION AND SUPERVISION OF The Brainerd 8z: Armstrong Co. Color Inserts by the Maas Colortype Co., CMcago. SALESROOMS: The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., - - 841 Broadway, New York City. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., - nth and Arch Sts., Philadelphia, Pa. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., - - - 68 Essex St., Boston, Mass. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., - - 5 So. Hanover St., Baltimore, Md. FACTORIES: Spool Silk Factories, Union St., - - - - - New London, Conn. Weaving Mills, Church St., New London, Conn. Throwing Mills, Coit St., - New London, Conn. Dye House, Bayonet f t, ------ New London, Conn. SELLING AGENTS: The Konotuck Bilk Co. 266 Franklin St., Chicago, 111'. 338 Jackson St., St Paul, Minn. 316+ 16th St., San Francisco, Cal. The Corticelli Silk Co, Washington Ave. and £th St., St. Louis, Mo. 321 Race St., Cincinnati, O. " St. Johns, P. Q., Canada. Copyrighted and Published by -Thie Brainerd & An NEW LONDON, CONN., AH Rights Reierved. LIBRARY ;zESffinfMwi ^ ' CONTENTS. lioi ; Pages I. Good Silk for Good Work '. S-7 II. Care of Hands and Selection of Needles '. . 7 III. Embroidery Hoops 78 IV. Laundering of Embroidery 8-9 V. Some Additional Helps 910 VI. Table of Flowers 11 VII. Meaning of Botanical Words 12 VIII. Single and Double Threads 12-13 IX. Direction of Stitches in Turn-over Leaf or Petal 13 X. Rule for Sewing Lace or Fringe to Edges 13-14 XI. Embroidery Stitches I4"i5 XII. Lessons in Embroidering Flowers 15-41 XIII. " Lazy Daisy " Designs 42-43 XIV. Biedermaier Embroidery 44-51 XV. Wallachian Embroidery 52 60 XVI. Eyelet Embroidery 61-67 XVII. Mountmellick Embroidery 6872 XVIII. Shadow Embroidery 73-80 XIX. Tinted Centerpieces and Doilies on Tan Linen 81-91 XX. Tinted Sofa Cushions for Embroidery ' 92-1 14 XXI. Novelties for Embroidery 115-131 XXII. Hemstitched Centers, Doilies and Scarfs 132-136 Introduction. THAT over an hundred thousand embroiderers each year send for our book " Embroidery Lessons with Colored Studies " is convincing' proof that its merits are widely known and appreciated among fancy workers. This, our publication for 1908, will more than meet the expectations of those who have profited by our former books ; and to those hitherto unacquainted with our annual publication, it will illustrate the practical and liberal manner in which we assist and contribute to the pleasyre of all who use our silks. Considerable information can be gleaned by a year's subscription to a number of publications that appear at more frequent intervals, but nowhere else than in our annual publication can so much concentrated and instructive information be obtained at so small cost — enough new suggestions about Stitches, Centerpieces, Doilies, Sofa Cushions and such new work as Wallachian, Biedermaier, Lazy Daisy, Shadow Eyelet and Mountmellick Work as to furnish a person ideas and work for a whole year to come. An especially valuable feature of this book consists of the Diagrams showing Color Distribution and Stitch Slant for working a large variety of flowers. The Col- ored Plates of Double Roses will be of great help in working these flowers. In order that the Colored Plates in this book may form a continuation of the eight preceding series in earlier publications, they are numbered CXXV to CXXXII inclusive. In these pages are a limited number of advertisements of concerns whose goods are of a nature to be of special interest to fancy workers and lady housekeepers- The fact that these advertisements are allowed to appear in this book may assure our readers that we believe the concerns to be of the highest business integrity and any dealings with them will be of an entirely satisfactory nature. Many of our designs have been reproduced by the use of excellent illustrations but the Red pages at the back of the book should be always con suited in order to learn all the designs we can furnish. If you are pleased with this book, and if you think it is well worth the small sum of sixteen cents that you pay for it, then we shall esteem it if you will show the book to your friends, or tell them about it in your correspondence. We should like to number them among our subscribers. In conclusion, we desire to emphasize the fact that we do not mention any goods in this book that cannot be procured by any embroiderer in this country, no matter in what remote section she may reside. If her own dealer does not have them in stock, and if he will not order them for her, then -the enclosed Red pages will tell her, how she may procure them, and if the directions in the Red pages are not entirely plain, we shall be pleased to write regarding the matter. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO. For Assisting Fancy Workers. It is probable that a greal many ladies who receive this book -will feel desirous of krow- ing what other assistance we can furnish them in their fancy work, and all such persons will be interested in the following list : 1 . Our Sample Card enables a person to see at a glance what shades of cur Embroideiy, Koiitjng and Crochet silks are made and to decide upcn these shades best suited to her work. The card places the embroider in ihe poEiticn to order our silks by number, frcm her own storekeeper, or from any other dealer who carries a full line of our goods. Sent for 20 cents or for 20 empty Holders and 10 cents. 2. Blue Book, like our Sample Card, should be kept clcse at hand by every embroiderer, for constant ri ference. This book enumerates the shades of our silk which have been fcur.d most satisfactcry in imbrcidering ever i£o different flowers, leaves and fruits. Sent for 4 cents or for 6 empty Holders and 2 cents. 3. Knitting and Crochet Book. Its 140 pages and go illustrations deal exclusively with Knitting ar.d Cro- cheting. It treats the subject from the beginning and covers thoroughly the knit ing rnd crocheting of such articles as Stockings, Socks, Mittens, Hoods, Purses, Undervests, Infants' Wear, etc. Sent for 10 cints or for 12 empty Holders and 4 cents. 4 Catalogue contains general information regarding cur productions. Sent to any address for a 2-cent STAMP. ^ 5. Embroidery Lessons with Colored Studies for 1907 contains over 170 pages and 200 illustratiors. Some ol the interesting things in the book are chapters on Eyelet Embroidery, Mountmellick Embroideiy, Shadow Embicidery, Hedebo Embroidery, Mission Designs', Hemstitched Linens, etc. A handsome Fish Set is shown, and a great vaneiy cf Centerpieces, Doilies, Sofa Cushions, Novelties, etc. The bcok contains our tenth series of Colored Plates CXVII to ■CXXIV inclusive, reproducing in natural colors Dogwood, Dandelion, Lilac, California Poppy, Clover, Fringed Gentian, Bachelor Button, Geranium, Narcissus, Golden Rod, Jonquil, Swtet Pea, HoneysuckFe, Mcrning Glory, Cclo. Colum- bine, Hollyhock, Fuchsia, Currant. Embroiders who desire these Colored Plates should crder the book. Sent for 16 CENTS or for 16 EMPTY HOLDERS AND 8 CENTS. 6. Embroidery Lessons and Colored Studies for 1906 contains over 150 pages and 190 illustraticns. Some of the interesting things in the book are: Embroidery for Ladies* Lingerie; Monogram Luncheon Set on "White Linen; Dutch Luncheoi\ Set on Tan Linen; Cut Glass Set; Eyelet, Mountmellick and Haidarger Embroidery Work; a great variety of Centerpieces, Doilies, Sofa Cushions, Novelties, etc. 1 he book contains cur ninth series cl Colcred Plates CIX to CXVI inclusive, reproducing in natural colors Nasturtium, Red Poppy, Carnation, Strawberry, Violet, Daisy, Holly, California Pepper Berry, Buttercup, Wild Rose, Chrysanthemum, Sweet William, etc. Embroideiers who de- sire these Colored Plates should order the book. Sent for 16 cents or for 16 empty Holders and 8 cents. 7. Embroidery Lessons with Colored Studies for 1904 contains over izo pages and 120 illustrations; instructions and designs for Huckaback and Mountmellick Work ; Table Spreads, Centerpieces and Doilies, on White and Tan Linen; Sola Cushions, Novelties, Waists, Waist Sets and Collars. Includes our seventh series of Colored Plates XCIII to C inclusive^ reproducing in natural colors Strawberries, Carnations, Acorns, Grapes, Bridesmaid Rose, Red Poppy, Photo Frames and Sofa Cushions. Embroiderers who desire these Colored Plates should order the book. Sent FOR 10 CENTS OR FOR l6 EMPTY HOLDERS AND 6 CENTS. 8. Embroidery Lessons and Colored Studies for 1902. Over 130 pages and 100 illustrations. Great variety of Doilies, Centerpieces, Battenberg Designs, Brown Linen Pieces, Screens, Sofa Cushions, etc. The book con- tains our fifth series of Colored Plates LXIX to LXXXIV inclusive, reprcducing in natural colors Cattail and Cardinal Flowers, Pond Lily, Pink Poppy, Blue Flag or Iris, Cyclamen, White Rose, Wild Rose, Brt wn-Eyed Susan, Viclet, Cen- terpieces, Screens, Sofa Cushions. Embroiderers who desire these Colored Plates should order the book. Sent for 10 CENTS OR FOR l6 EMPTY HOLDERS AND 6 CENTS. 9. Embroidery Lessons with Colored Studies for 1901 contains over 140 pages, with 125 illustrations of Doilies, Centerpieces, Tea Cloths, Sofa Pillows, etc. Complete instructions for Battenberg Stitches. The book cm- braces our fourth series of Colored Plates LlII to LXVIII inclusive, reproducing in their natural colors the Chrysanthe- mum, Passion Flower, Trumpet Flower, Columbine, Fuchsia, American Beauty Rose, Orchid, Tulip, Iris, Wild Rose, Jonquil, Fish and Sofa Pillows. Ladies who desire these Colored Plates should order the book. Sent for 10 cents OR FOR 16 empty Holders and 6 cents. 10. Illustrated Lessons in Embroidery Stitches. This book teaches by il uEtration and minute direction how to make each and every stitch used in all kinds of modern embroidery. Contains 40 pages and 120 illusirations It embraces a valuable chapter entitled " How to Embroider Flower Stems." Every embroiderer needs to have it on hand for frequent reference. It will teach beginners how to embroider. Sent for 10 cents or jo empty Holders and 4 CENTS. JBOT" Embroidery Lessons with Colored Studies, fcr the years 1898, 1899, 1900, 1903 and 1905 can no longer be furnished, the editions having been exhausted, THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO., 100 Union Street, Ne^v London, Conn. The price of this book — " Embroidery Lessons with Colored Studies," for 150? — is i5 ce ts. We do not send this 1Q08 book for Holders. Some Introductory Hints. Good Silk is the First Requisite of Good Work. THE best worker cannot do herself justice if compelled to use a silk which splits or frays in spite of all her care ; or one whose lustre is quickly lost — notwithstanding the most careful handling — rendering her work dull and lifeless, even before it is completed. The best is the cheapest. An inferior silk is not economical at any price. It is much better economy to pay a little higher price in order to have a silk that will not run in washing and, by run- ning (as some inferior silks do), render practically worthless a piece of work upon which has been expended that which is more valuable than money — time and patience. In purchasing the " Asiatic Dye" Wash Silks, manufactured by The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., the em- broiderer can be certain that the colors are absolutely fast, as they have stood the test of many years. The fact that Brain- erd & Armstrong's Wash Silks may be purchased in Holders, like that shown in the illustration is a great advantage to embroiderers. These HoMers save time and patience by preventing snarling, and they economize in silk by preserving the last thread in as good condition as the first. They deserve the name, " a boon to embroiderers," by which they are often called. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. has patents covering the exclusive rights to every part of this device and, while unsuccessful imitations have been at- tempted, the goods still remain some- thing unique which cannot be furnished by any other manufacturer in the world. Embroiderers, therefore, have the pleas- ure of using the best embroidery silk in this most convenient Holder. The empty Holders, after the silk has been used from them, will entitle her to a large number of prizes which will be of assist- ance in her work. The particular thread to be selected depends largely on the character of the work and the artistic effects to be pro- duced. It is our intention to describe these different embroidery threads, and to enumerate some of the ways in ^chich they may be used to the best advantage. "Asiatic" Filo Selle— Sometimes called "Asiatic" Filo, is superior tp any silk in the world for solid embroidery and fine outline work. It is finer than any other thread and for this reason gives a larger SKEIN OF SILK IN ^^^^ HOLDER. ^ %\N% J^ n^^^^ ^ -i K^ <^ fk \ ■^ k 1 y^ PULL THE THREAD LIKE THIS. range to the skillful worker, to produce the most harmonious shadings and artistic effects. It is especially adapted for floral designs on linen and is unsurpassed for working table linen. "Asiatic Roman " Floss — Similar to Filo in twist but a much heavier thread. It covers the ground more rapidly. It also is used for solid embroidery and outline work, but on heavier fabrics. It is a THE BRAJNERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. splendid thread for finishing the edges of linens and similar fabrics where a bril- liant and lustrous effect is desired. "Asiatic Caspian " Floss— This silk is es" pecially designed for finishing the edges of linens and is at present more widely used than any other thread for scallop work on doilies and centerpieces. It is dyed in many plain colors and also in eight shaded colors; in fact it is the only one of our high-grade embroidery silks that we dye in shaded colors. It is not intended for solid work like the Filo and " Roman," but can be used effectively for outlining and cross-stitching. "Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery — A thread that is harder twisted than any yet men- tioned. Its tight twist makes it very durable, and it is a popular thread for general embroidery. It was most used for scallop work until the introduction of our "Caspian" Floss, "Asiatic" Rope Silk— A large, loosely twisted silk. It is used for bold designs in outline or solid embroidery on heavy material. "Asiatic" Mountmellicfc Silk — This is a hard twisted thread specially designed for Mountmellick work. It is furnished in four sizes F, FF, G and H, finest to coarsest in the order named. Size FF is about the size of Twisted Embroidery Silk. Mountmellick Silk is dyed in White only. For Mountmellick Work in colors, our Twisted Embroidery Silk is used. "Asiatic" Art Rope Silk— Similar to Rope, but a trifle harder twisted. "Asiatic" Outline Embroidery— A desir- able twisted thread, finer and harder twisted than our Twisted Embroidery Silk mentioned above. It is used for outline and buttonhole work, on fine quality linen Dr other fine fabrics. "Asiatic" Honiton Lace Silk— A thread somewhat like the one preceding but of a peculiar twist designed for Honiton I,ace Work. A sample of each of these threads may be found in Brainerd & Armstrong's Sample Card of Wash Silks. This card will also enable an embroiderer to see at a glance over 390 different shades in which the threads are dyed and to decide upon those best suited for her work. Any one can procure one of these cards by sending 20 cents in stamps to The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union St., New London, Conn. The owner of one of these cards can order her silk by number from her own storekeeper, or where she cannot get them in her own city, from a more remote dealer who carries a full line of Brainerd & Armstrong's Silks. The famous "Asiatic" Wash Silks can be ordered by number from nearly all Art Societies and leading dealers in Art Em- broidery materials, as well as from teach- ers of Art Embroidery who have Art Rooms throughout the United States. If the worker is persuaded into buying some inferior silk by her dealer, and if the colors run and she makes a failure of her work, she cannot avail herself of the excuse that the proper thread for her work could not have been found in Brain- erd & Armstrong's list of Wash Silks, for the list is complete and contains the best threads for all kinds of embroidery- Sometimes a lady finds that a dealer has mixed a few skeins of some other silk with the skeins of "Asiatic Dye" Wash Silk which were ordered. Perhaps he does this because he can make more profit on an inferior grade ; perhaps, be- cause the exact shades were missing in his line of goods ; but in either case, the lady has a perfect right to return the unknown silks and insist that her dealer send her no silk except that which has the name, The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., printed in a prominent position on the tag. Some other dealer is pretty sure to have the shade she desires, but in case the lady is still unable to obtain the shades desired and if her dealer will not SOME INTRODUCTORY HINTS. get them for her, she may then send the proper amount to The Brainerd & Arm- strong Co., loo Union Street, New Lon- don, Conn., who will see that the order is promptly filled the day it is received, by some retail store. Care of Hands and Selection of Needles. If the embroidery silk does not work smoothly and looks rough on the linen, the embroiderer's hands or her needle may be at fault. In every case the diffi- culty is pretty sure to be attributed to a fault in the silk or needle, because every- one is more ready to find a defect in some external object than in themselves, and this makes it most pertinent to draw special attention to the fact that the em- broiderer should take care of her hands, to keep them as smooth and soft as pos- sible. The best needle for embroidery is one which has a smooth eye that allows the silk plenty of play, without pulling it to pieces or roughing it in the least. Be sure your needle is adapted to the size of the silk. If the eye be too small) the silk cuts and frays, because it gathers in a thick lump at the eye of the needle, which has to be forced through the fabric to the detriment of the silk. If the eye be too large, the work takes on the appear- ance of having too few stitches, and holes mark the edges of every stitch. It has been found from experience that a No. 9 or No. 10 needle is especially well adapted for general use with "Asiatic " Filo ; while a No. 12 needle, is used for the finest embroidery with a single thread ; a No. 7 needle is used for " Asiatic Roman " Floss, "Asiatic" Tw s ed Embroidery and "Asiatic " Outline Silk ; a No. 8 for "Asiatic Caspian" Floss; and a No. 3 for "Asiatic" Rope Silk. In working upon certain materials, it may be advis- able to select some sizes different from those mentioned above, but the above selection will be found suitable for gen- eral use. Any embroiderer who cannot obtain embroidery needles from her regular dealers, can send her order with remit- tance, at the rate of 6 cents per paper, to The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union Street, New London, Conn., who will see that the order is promptly filled by some retail store. The needles are put up 25 of a size in a paper and papers cannot be broken. In ordering, state how many papers are desired of each size. To please embroiderers who do not wish as many as 25 needles all of the same size, we this year offer special case 757 which contains an assortment of sizes ranging from 5 to 10. This beautiful case has a mica front and opens at the back like a pocket book, so that you can always see at a glance whatever size you want and get it readily. The price for this case of needles is 10 cents. It can be ordered by any embroiderer in the same manner as explained in the preceding paragraph for the regular papers. In shading, where a number of colors have to be used alternately, an experi- enced embroiderer will not confine herself to one needle which has to be threaded and re-threaded with the different colors at a considerable loss of time but she will have a needle for each color and use them in succession, as each ' color is required in her work. Embroidery Hoops. It is equally true that many small pieces them. They keep the work from drawing of work do not require the use of embroid- and are an assistance in shading, because ery hoops, and that most of the larger an embroiderer cannot observe the pieces cannot be nicely done without shades properly, if obliged to hold her THE BRAINERD &• ARMSTRONG CO. work in her hand. A good pair of these hoops or frames can be manufactured at home by taking two wooden hoops, one a little larger than the other, and winding both smoothly and firmly with narrow strips of White cotton cloth until one hoop fits very closely over the other. "Martha Washington" Hoop. There are other styles of loops which are in use among embroiderers. The "Martha Washington" Round Hoops and the " Dolly Madison " Oval Hoops are well made, of light-colored wood, fine'y finished with edges rounded. They are perfectly true in circle and will not warp out of shape. The spring on the outer hoop gives the required tension to hold tightly in place a light or heavy fabric without any slipping. (See illustration.) It is a good plan to have two sizes of hoops, the most desirable are one pair 4 inches in diameter and the other of larger diameter. Any lady who is unable to obtain em- broidery hoops of her regular dealer can send her order with remittance to The Reinhart Varieties Co. (Dept. B), Canton, Ohio. They will have some retail store send the Hoops at the prices given for the different sizes in their advertisement on page 10. The fabric to be worked is arranged by placing it over the inner hoop and draw- ing it smooth and even. The outer hoop is then pressed firmly down over the inner one, so as to hold the goods with an even tension and without straining them. In using the hoops, care should be exer- cised not to draw the work or crowd the stitches. See advertisement on page 10 for shapes and sizes. Laundering for Our directions given below are intended to apply to most difficult pieces. It does not follow that such special care is required upon plain, simple work, with no raised surfaces. These directions apply especially to first washinj^s and to such work as strawberries, fruits, or work that is raised or stuffed. Where figures or petals are raised, they absorb and hold so much water that any pressure of a hot flat upon them when wet is likely to drive steam and dye out into the linen. The first thorough washing of an embroidered piece will usually remove all loose dyes, and each subsequent laundering is atten- ded with less and less risk ; therefore, use best judgment and greatest care the first time. Washing. An embroidered piece should never be put in with the regular wash. Let it be washed by itself in a large bowl or tub which will hold a liberal Embroidery. amount of water. USE PLENTY OF WATER. Use fairly hot water and • make a light suds of " Ivory," or any other pure soap. Rinse and wash quickly. If the linen is soiled, rub that portion between the hands, but avoid a general rubbing. Take it out of the suds and rinse thoroughly in clear water. Having thoroughly washed the article, commence to dry it. Drying. A wet piece of embroidery should never be hung up to dry ; never be folded upon itself and thrown into a heap ; never left a moment while attend- ing to something else. Lay the piece flat upon a dry towel or thick cloth, and roll it up inside this in such a way that no part of the embroidery can touch any other part of the linen. In this shape it can be rung or twisted without danger. After one or two such operations, then SOME INTRODUCTORY HINTS. unwrap and shake vigorously until the article is dry enough to iron. Ironing. Lay the piece face down upon an ironing board, well-covered with several thicknesses of material like heavy flannel. Spread a clean, White cloth over the embroidery and iron lightly the whole surface, being careful not to press too heavily upon embroidered portions. especially if they are stuffed. As the article becomes dry and smooth, the top cloth can be removed, and the final polish put on with a moderately hot iron, always on the wrong side, being careful to keep the flat off from raised or heavily em- broidered portions. Each subsequent washing can be done with less risk. Laundering ^A^aists, Ladies' Lingerie, Suits, Etc. For Embroidering such articles as Waists, Ladies' Lingerie, etc., we recom- mend in many cases the use of some one of our White Embroidery Silks. No cot- ton or linen thread can give the rich, lustrous effect of a silk thread. Some people have the idea that White silk thread will turn Yellow. This idea has gained currency because some people are care- less and have at some time allowed their White silk embroidery to become ruined by letting it get into the boiler with the general wash. They would not have done this with a piece of silk embroidery in colors. No more should they do it with a piece of silk embroidery in White. Don't think because a piece of silk em- broidery is White that it is not entitled to the care which all silk embroidery should have. If it has this care and is laundered in accordance with the directions given above that apply to all silk embroidery, the color will remain pure White and wear for many years. Some Additional Helps. In Doing Embroidery there are some points, by the observance of which it is possible to add much to the attractiveness of a piece of work. Smooth and Even Work. After draw- ing a thread from the skein, pass it lightly between tip of forefinger and thumb, to assure yourself which way the twist runs. This can easily be distinguished with very little practice, and upon this depend the regularity of your shading and the smooth- ness of your work. Insert the thread in the eye of the needle so as to have the. twist seem to run down from the needle. If the opposite end of the thread is inserted in the needle, then the thread will be drawn through the linen against its twist, which causes roughness and knots. Knots. Never knot your thread, as it causes the work when finished to have a lumpy, rough appearance. Fasten the thread by running it in the cloth, or sew- ing it over and over on some portion of the material that is to be covered by the work. In finishing up a needleful of silk, fasten it in the same way, always clipping the silk short, else it will work to the surface and give a ragged appearance. Never bite the silk, as it pulls and gives it a drawn look. Working a Leaf or Petal. The leaf or petal which laps under should be worked first. Some begin at the centre of a petal and work out, others at the edge and work in, and still others begin at the base and work up. Whichever way is most convenient will become your way, for solid embroidery always allows wide scope for individuality. A simple method is to begin at the apex of the leaf or petal and, after making a line of stitches dowu THE BKAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. the center, work to the right until the right half is finished ; then going back to the apex again, work to the left until the other half is completed. If the work calls for delicate shading, begin at the base and gradually work upward on the whole leaf or petal until completed. Some outline the veinings first and fill in around them, but the better way is to put such veinings as may be necessary in last, over the finished leaf. Making Outline Distinct. The ques- tion is often asked as to how petals and leaves can be worked so that they will not seem to run together. Many embroid- erers make each leaf and petal stand out distinctly from the rest by outlining its edges. This treatment raises the work and develops its lights and shadows better than the flat treatment. It should be noticed, however, that this outlining can raise the work only moderately and that the work is padded with White cot- ton or silk when very high effects are to be produced. Artistic Shading. Shading must be done so artistically as to leave no sign where one color begins and the other ends. This is easily done by running the stitches of one color well up into the other, so as to leave no decided line where they meet. Beware of Cheap Silks. Beware of the inferior silks. They run in washing and ruin your finished piece of embroidery. It is a waste of money to buy cheap, inferior silks. The safe way. is to insist on having Brainerd & Arm- strong's Wash Silks. See that the name Brainerd & Armstrong, is on the tag of every skein of silk you use. The Reinhart Varieties Company OF CANTON, OHIO, U. S. A., BEG TO CALL YOUR AHENTION TO THEIR LINE OF EMBROIDERY HOOPS MADE IN NUMEROUS SIZES AS FOLLOWS : round, in ' o\al. .Si ''i 7. 8, ID 13x6, 4;., xy Send order to THE "MARTHA WASHINGTON,' and 12 inches diameter. THE " DOLLY MADISON, and 9x12 inclres. If your dealer does not have them in stock, please write to us. The great feature of thi,s Hoop is the Spring, \ which allows the Hoop to accommodate itself to the , thickness of the fabric, the central portion of the Spring being bent inwards so as to bear against the cut ends of the Hoop and thus prevent the ends from spreading outward. This feature'of our Hoops is patented. Prites by mail, 4, 5, 6 and 7 inches, 15c. pair. [' " " ** inch, 20c ; loor 12 inch, 25c. pair, oval, 3x6, 15c. pair; 41-2x9 and Ti n , ■ '^'"^' 25c- pair. 1 he small oval is not made with spring. THE REINHART VARIETIES COMPANY, Dep't B., Canton, Ohio. #1 LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. AN embroiderer should not lose sight of the fact that she is employed in an art which gives the great- est scope for originality. One of the results of this circumstance is that no two embroiderers are to be found who will treat the same design in exactly the same manner. Indeed, an expert em- broiderer generally conceives of several entirely different and equally correct ways for treating a design, as soon as she sees it. This fact is emphasized in this particular chapter, in order to show that, while the instructions given in the following pages are entirely correct for each flower, there are at the same time other ways for embroidering the flowers and other colors which can be combined in them to good advantage. It may even sometimes happen that the directions, printed in our other books may seem to differ from the directions given in these pages for embroidering the same flowers. This is the result of the scope which the subject a lows and does not indicate that either set of instructions are wrong. On the contrary, they are both equally cor- rect, and the embroiderer can follow the method which seems to her most desir- able. Another important point to be kept in mind is that the limited space in this book does not always allow us to give full instructions for all our designs in a flower. It is accordingly necessary for a person to look carefully through the de- signs enumerated in the Red pages in the back of this book, in order to learn of all the different linens we may have stamped with a particular flower. Table of Flowers. The purpose of the following table is to enumerate in alphabetical order our different designs and to show the American Beauty Rose Linen 1124A. Apple Blossom Bridesmaid Rose Bachelor Button Buttercup California Pepper Beny Carnation Carrot(Wild) Chrysanthemum Daisy Tandelion Blow Field Poppy Forget-me-not Holy Jack Rose La France Rose Maiden Hair Fern II24A. See Page 28 it23A. '* "22 1124B. " " 29 1122C. " " 18 II22B. " " 16 ir23D. " " 24 1123B. '* " 22 1125A. " " 33 1125C. " " 35 1122D. " " 18 1125B. " " 34 1122E. " "20 1126A. " " 37 ir23E. " " 26 1124C. " " 29 1124D. " " 30 H2,C. " " =4 pages where the instructions are given for working them : Marechal Neil Rose Linen 1124E. Pansy Pepper Berry Poppy (Field) Poppy (Red) Rose (American Beauty) . Rose (Bridesmaid) Rose {"Jack) . Rose (La France) Rose (Marechal Neil) Rose (Wild) Strawberry Sweet Pea Violet Wild Carrot Wild Rose II24E. See Page 30 ir26B. " ■' 37 ri23D. " " 24 1122E. *' "20 1124F. " " 33 1124A. " " 28 ir24B. " " '9 1124C. " " =9 ir24D. " " ^0 1124E. " " 30 1122A. '■ " 15 1123F. '■ " 26 J125D. " " 35 1122F. '* ** 20 1125A. " " 33 1122A. " " 15 1127 " " 39 THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. Meaning of Botanical Words. Modern embroidery concerns itself largely with the working of flowers at the present time. It, therefore, greatly assists an embroiderer, in understanding the instructions for working a flower, if she knows its different parts and their names. Every complete flower has four parts — S&m«n" Flower Pakis. namely, calyx, corolla, stamens and pistils. Our illustration shows a flower that has all these parts very distinct and regular. Calyx means the "flower cup" and is the cup or outer covering of the blossom. It is generally green and leaf-like. A single division or section of the Calyx is called a Sepal. Corolla is the inner cup or outer set of leaves of the flower. It is generally col- ored and the showy part of the blossom. A single division or section of the Cor- olla is called a Fetal. The chaliced part of a flower is the part which .is shaped like a cup ; hence the word Chalice is often used instead of Corolla in flowers where the cup is very pronounced. Stamens, as shown in the illustration, generally grow fast to the bottom of the Corolla. Each stamen consists of two parts, a Filament and an Anther. The Filament is the stalk ; the Anther is the little case on tcp cf the Filament. It is filled with a powdery matter, called Fallen. Fistils are the bodieS in which the seeds are formed and belong in the center of the flower. Some flowers have one Pistil only ; others have a great many. A complete Pistil has three parts. At the bottom is the Ovary; this is pro- longed upwards into a slender body called the Style; the rough part at the very top is called the Stigma. Single and Double Threads. It is often the case that two threads of the Filo can be used in the needle with better results than a single thread, and an embroiderer who understands when it is proper to resort to the use of the so-called "double thread," can give to her work a richness which would be lacking if she confined herself exclusively to a single thread. The rule which governs the use of the single or double thread is derived from the general principle, that the lighter and more delicate the figure or fabric, the finer should be the thread. It is, there- fore, proper to use a double thread when the figure to be embroidered is large or the material heavy. In such cases, the whole flower or leaf is sometimes com- pleted with the double thread, but more often the double thread is continued nearly to the center, and the "shading in " is done with a single thread. The advantage gained from such a use of the " double thread " is apparent in the in creased richness and weight of the work It can, therefore, be taken as a safe rule in embroidering good sized flowers or in working upon heavy material with Filo that the outer portions of the petals and foliage should be dene with a double thread, and the shading in towards the center, with a single thread. But this rule dees not apply to small flowers or delicate materials, which should be worked with a single thread on the edge and throughout the whole embroid- LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 13 ery. The use of two threads anywhere in such delicate designs would give a clumsy and unwieldy look to the work, and, indeed, even a single thread some- times seems too clumsy for such work and it is necessary to split it for shading the centers. It is always possible to experiment with a design on a separate piece of linen and to soon determine whether it is better to use a double, sin- gle or split thread. Another important thing is to thread the needle correctly. It is not proper when it is desired to use a double thread, to double a single strand in the needle, as the twist will run in opposite directions and cause the silk to be roughened. The correct way is to pull two strands out of the skein together. The two strands will naturally chng together and they can be easily threaded into the needle. Direction of Stitches in Turn-ever Leaf or Petal. If an embroiderer is in doubt as to the direction which the stitches should take in any turn-over leaf or petal, this point can easily be decided by drawing a simi- lar leaf or petal on a piece of paper, cutting it out with the scissors and then folding over the edge. This Stamped Petal. can be made clear by taking an act- ual case. An em- broiderer has a linen upon which appears a petal drawn Petal. like the illustra- tion at the left, and she is uncertain as to what direction the stitches should take in turn-over part marked A. To decide this point she should trace on a piece of paper of ordinary thickness, the petal as it would appear without the edge turned, and mark the direction which the stitches would take in such a petal. Her drawing will then appear like the middle illustra- tion. Now let the embroiderer cut out this paper design with her scissors and turn over the edge so as to make it like the design on her linen. Her drawing will resemble the illustration at the right, except that the turn-over part at A will appear blank until the paper drawing is placed against the window pane, when the direction of the lines at A can ^ jr~~~^^ 1 1 1 1 \ be easily seen. An embroiderer does not need any skill to draw this, for it will re- quire only a~ moment for any Turned Dkawn Petal. one tO make SOme sort of a rough sketch, which will be good enough to determine any case of stitch direction in a turned leaf or petal. Rule for Sewing Lace or Fringe to Edges. In the case of rounding edges, there is sometimes dcult as to how to attach lace that comes in a straight piece. This is easily accomplished with a little practice and experience. After the embroidery has been comj: leted, the cloth is trimmed It is often desirable, either by reason of the character of the stamped design or for the purpose of increasing its beauty, to finish a piece by sewing a fancy lace or fringe to its edge. This is easily ac- complished when the edges are straight. 1.4 THE BRAINERD &• ARMSTRONG CO. in a circle at a desirable distance, often from one-half to a full inch outside the design, and the edge turned under in a fine hem and stitched. To the edge thus prepared, is sewed the lace or fringe. This is accomplished by first basting the lace or fringe very carefully to the edge, allowing only enough fullness to get around the curve but not so much as to prevent it from lying flat. Care must be exercised not to gather the lace on, for this would prevent it from finally lying flat. When this work is done, draw the basting thread enough to make the lace or fringe fall properly into place; now when the lace or fringe is in this position, stitch it on the machine before removing the basting thread. It can be sewed on by hand, but its appearance is improved if sewed by machine. It will now be found that when the finished piece is dampened and ironed on the reverse side with a hot fiat, the lace or fringe will lie down flat and even. In the case of our White and Ecru Lace No. 7930, two widths are generally sewed to the edge of a centerpiece to get the desired width of lace. Our Shadow Effect Centerpiece 9669 is treated in this manner (See illustration further along in these pages). Some ruffles are furnished with a draw thread already included in the weave. It is an easy matter to pull this thread and get the ruffle into shape around the article to be finished with it. It is sewed to the article according to the directions already given above. The following lengths should be suffi- cient for outside edges for the different sizes of round centers : 7-inch % yd ; 9-inch I "yd; 12-inch \\ yds; 18-inch \)i yds; 22-inch 2X yds; 27-inch 7.% yds ; 36-inch 3 yi. yds. Buttonhole Stitch Preferable to Laces for Edges. The tendency this season does not favor the use of fancy laces as a finish for the edges of centerpieces and doilies. An edge in a pretty scallop design and finished in Buttonhole Stitch with the proper embroidery silk, gives quite as rich an effect and as a rule is more in keeping with the rest of the work. Such an edge has the double advantage of being something that every embroiderer can herself fashion with her own needle and avoids the necessity of a long search for a satisfactory lace, to say nothing of the additional cost and expense that the use of lace involves in finishing the piece. If an embroiderer is partial to the use ' of lace as a finish for edges, the designs in this book are of such a character that lace can be used on the edges as an additional finish. When the doily and centerpiece designs are treated in this manner, their scalloped borders are worked in Buttonhole Stitch according to our instructions, and the linen is trimmed away at a distance of from a half inch to an inch from the scallops, turned under with a fine hem to which the lace is attached. Satisfactory laces for such a finish can be purchased from the dry goods stores. Embroidery Stitches. Several of our earlier books have gone most thoroughly into the subject of em- broidery stitches, with the object of making plain to the novice just what stitches are used in the various kinds of modern embroidery, and of explaining the manner of working in so explicit a way as to render them easy of execution even to the beginner. Having so thoroughly covered this subject in our earlier books we have deci- ded not to introduce it into these pages LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. IS to the exclusion of newer matter. If any of our readers should find herself without any of our previous books on the subject and should desire the book entitled "Illustrated Lessons in Embroidery Stitches," we can send her this book, on receipt of her order with lo cents remit- tance in stamps. Notice for Embroidery Teachers. Teachers who are just starting pupils in embroidery will find this book of the greatest possible assistance. It furnishes the novice with a diagram of each flower, with stitch slant marked and the distribu. tion and placing of the shades indicated by a system of letters and numbers. If the pupil is to commence her lessons with wild rose, then she should procure our Design 1 122 A, and do the work with our diagram of wild rose (See page 19) con- stantly before her. If the lesson is on any of the other floral subjects, the cor- responding diagram should be followed closely. Besides the diagram, a Colored Plate to correspond can be found in this book or some one of our earlier books which are still to be had. It is also important that the pupil have a copy of our book entitled "Illustrated Lessons in Embroidery Stitches." This book can be ordered of the Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union Street, New London, Conn., at 10 cents a copy. It explains to the novice just what stitches are used in the various kinds of modern embroidery, and shows by illustration the manner of working them so plainly as to render them easy of execution, even to the beginner. Important Notice Regarding Designs in this Book. We expect to have a full stcck of all the stamped linens, exactly as illustrated in this book until September, 1908. By that time, we may find that some of the patterns have been copied by other people and have become old ; and when such time arrives, we shall desire to reserve the privilege of substituting some more recent and equally attractive pat- terns in the same flowers, from the new designs which we are constantly bring- ing out. Wild Rose. A Colored Plate of this flower was fur- nished in our Embroidery Books for the year 1906. Diagram on page 19 will greatly assist the embroiderer. The flow- ers on our Linen 1122A (See page 17) are worked with Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2670a, 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 2674, 267s ; for the centers 2620, 2632, 2635 ; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625; for thorns 2362. The flowers and leaves are worked throughout in solid Kensington Stitch, except when otherwise stated. The flower petals are worked in shades of Pink. In some of the petals, make the edges dark and shade lighter towards the center; in other petals reverse this shad- ing. A turned-over edge of a petal is slightly raised with the White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the lightest flower shades. The part of the petal that comes in the shadow, under a turned-over part, should be worked dark. The center of each open flower is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2620. Stamens ra- diate from this center. Each is made with a single long stitch of 2620. At the end of each stamen, make a French Knot of 2632 and 2635, alternating them and i6 THE BRAINERD d^' ARMSTRONG CO. using one thread at a time. The reverse side of a petal should be shaded light on the edge and darker towards the base. I In the buds, such part of the inside I petals as shows is worked solid in Ken- I sington Stitch with a dark shade of Pink. The small leaves at the tip of the bud : are made solid with the lightest shades of Green. The calyxes on the buds are worked solid in shades 2622 and 2623. Leaves are worked sohd in Kensing- ton Stitch, with the shades of Green mentioned for that purpose. In some leaves, place light shades on the edge and darker towards the center; in other leaves, reverse this shading. Midrib and fine stems are outlined wilh the darkest shades of Green. The thorns are made solid with Brown 2362. This Linen 1 1 22 A (See page 17) be- longs to our simple set. The scalloped edge is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with' White " Caspian" Floss. The single line scroll ends of the scallops are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1122 A, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins eacli 2671, 2672, 2622, 2624; I skein each 2670a, 2670b, 2670, 2673, 2674, 2675, 2632, 2635, 2362, 2620, 2621,2623, 2625. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 7 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (7, 9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Buttercup. A Colored Plate of this flower was given in our Embroidery Book for 1906. Diagram on page 27 will greatly assist the embroiderer. For the flowers on Linen 1122B (See page 17) use Brainerd & Armstong's Wash Silks 2630, 2631, 2632, 2633, 2634, 2635, 2636, 2637; for center 2621, 2124; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624. The flowers are worked solid in the shades of Yellow, in Kensington Stitch. The flower petals are made dark on the edge and lighter towards the center. It is well to vary the petals, making some light on the edge and darker towards the center. The center of each open flower should be worked solid, with Green 2621 ; scatter around this center French Knots of Brown 2124. In all flowers, the more remote or back petals are made darker than the front ones. Such flowers as present side views should be worked so as to bring out the front petals very light ; the more remote petals are made darker. A turned-over part of a petal is raised slightly with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with the lightest flower shades. In nature each flower has five petals, and some of these petals are lighter than others, so that it is a good plan, in work- ing a cluster or group, to vary the shading in the flowers. We mean that it is well to vary the light and dark petals, by making three petals on one side of a flower with the darkest shades on the outer edge, and to use a shade lighter on the outer edge of the remaining two petals. The flower next to this one may have three petals with the second darkest shade on the outer edge, and the remain- ing two petals with the darkest shades on the outer edge. The buds are made darker than the flowers. Work the calyx solid in Kensington Stitch, with the light shades of Green. The leaves are worked solid in Ken- sington Stitch, in shades of Green. They are made light on the tip and dark towards the stem. Work the stems in Outline Stitch, with the dark shades of Green. Th's Linen 1122B (See page 17) also belongs to our sipiple set. The scalloped edge is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. The single line scroll ends of the scallops are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1122B, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2623, 2624; I skein each 2630, 2631, 2632,2633, Z£SSOJVS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 17 Bachelor Button Design II22C. (See page iS.) Violet Design 11Z2F. (See page 20.) Made in 7, 9, 12, i8 and 22-inch sizes. i8 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. 2634, 2635, 2636, 2637, 2124, 2620, 2621, 2622. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 7 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (7, 9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Bachelor Button. A Colored Plate of this flower (some- times called cornflower) was furnished in our Embroidery Book for 1907. Dia- gram on page 25 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1 122 C (See page 17). Key to diagram is as fol- lows: I — Shade 2600 A — Shade 2620 2 — Shade 2601 B — Shade 2621 3 — Shade 2602 C — Shade 2622 4 — Shade 2603 D — Shade 2623 5 — Shade 2604 E — Shade 2624 All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch except when otherwise stated. The flowers are worked in the shades of Blue. Some of the p3tals are shaded light on the edge and darker towards the center, and in other petals, this shading is reversed. The shading should be so arranged as to have each petal stand out distinct by itself, and this is accomplished by having the shade on the edge of one petal in contrast to the shade used on the edge of the other petal to which it is adjacent. In the center of each wide open flower, shade in a little Green 2620. Buds are worked in darker shades than the flowers. Calyx on flower and bud is worked with Green 2621 and 2622, using the lighter shade at the tip and the darker towards the stem. This is crossed and recrossed with Diamond Couching Stitch of shade 2445, as shown in the diagram on page 25. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green, and are shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the stem. Stems are outlined with the darker shades of Green. This Linen 1 1 22 C (See page 1 7) also belongs to our simple set. The scalloped edge is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. The single line scroll ends of the scallops are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1122C, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Sell^e, 2 skeins each 2602, 2624; I skein each 2600, 2601, 2603, 2604, 2605, 2445, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 7 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (7, 9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Daisy. A Colored Plate of this flower was furnished in our Embroidery Book for 1907. Diagram on page 21 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1122 D (See page 17). For the flowers, use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silk, 2002, 2481, 2636, 2638; for leaves and stems, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624. The petals of the flowers are worked throughout in Kensington Stitch. Work the points of the petals with a double thread of shade 2002 and ihen use a single thread of 2481 towards the center, being careful to blend the shades well. Fill the center with French Knots of two shades of Yellow, placing the lightr^r shade in the center. Calyxes are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with shades 2622, 2623, 2624, one shade only being used for each calyx. Leaves of daisy are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the Greens men- tioned for that purpose, shading lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. Stems of the daisies are outlined with G^reen 2623 and 2624. This Linen 11 22 D (See page 17) ■ belongs to our simple set. The scalloped edge is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, wi'.h White " Caspian " Floss. The single line scroll ends of the scallops are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1122 D, 22-inch size. " Asiatic" Filo Selle, 5 skeins 2002 ; 2 skeins each 2481, 2636, 2638, 2622, 2624; I skein each 2620, 2621, 2623. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 7 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (7, 9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. lESSOlVS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. DIAGRAM SHOWING COLOR DISTRIBUTION AND STITCH DIRECTION. Wild Rose — Yellow Chrysanthemum — Carnation. THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. Field Poppy. Diagram on page 25 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1 122 E (See page 17). Key to diagram is as follows : 1 — Shade 2060a 2 — Shade 2061 3 — Shade 2061a 4 — Shade 2062 5 — Shade 2062a 6 — Shade 2063 7 — Shade 2064 A — Shade 2560 B — Shade 2561 C — Shac!e 2562 D — Shade 2563 E — Shade 2564 All of the work is done solid in Kc n- sington Stitch, except when otherwise stated. Tlie flowers are worked with the shades of Red and shaded light on the edge and darker towards the center. Some flowers are made darker than others. All remote petals are made darker than those in the foreground. All stitches should slant towards the center of the flower. The reverse side of a petal is worked lighter than its face. A turned- over part is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the lightest flower shades. The central spur is raised and worked solid with Green 2562. Each stamen is made with a single long stitch of 2561, at the end of which is placed a French Knot with a thread each of 2000 and 263s in the needle. The unopened bud is made solid with the lighter and medium shades of Green, lighter at the tip than at the base. Small, irregular stitches of shade 2560 are scattered over the Green of the buds and also made to project from their edges. These stitches are to represent fibres and should be made very fine with a split thread of Filo. Leaves are worked with the shades of Green enumerated above for that purpose. They are shaded lighter at the tip and edges and darker tow ards the midrib and base. A turned part is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the light- est shades of Green. Veins are outlined with a shade of Green darker than used for the main portion of the leaf. Stems are outlined with the two darkest shades of Green, and the projectitig fibres are made with shade 2560, as explained above in the case of the buds. This Linen 11 22 E (See page 17) belongs to our simple set. The scalloped edge is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian Floss. The single line scroll ends are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1122 E, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2062, 2c62a, 2i;6o, 2563, 2564; i skein each 2o6pa, 2o6i, 2061a, 2063, 2064, 2COO, 2635, 2561, 2562. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 7 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (7, 9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Violet. A Colored Plate of this flower was fur- nished in our Embroidery Book for 1906. Diagram on page 21 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1122F (See page 17). For the flowers use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2790, 2791, 2792, 2793,2794, 2795; for centers 2622, 2636 ; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625. Flowers are worked solid with the shades of Purple. They are worked throughout in Kensington Stitch. In some of the flowers, the petals are shaded lighter on the edge and darker towards the center; in others this shading may be reversed. Some flowers are made darker than others. The center of such flowers as are wide open is worked with two stitches of shade 2622, pointed atone end in the form of a V. Inside these stitches, work three short stitches with shade 2636. Buds are made with darker shades than the flowers; the calyx is worked solid with the darker shades of Green. The leaves are worked in Kensington Stitch with the shades of Green, light at the tip and darker towards the stem, put- Z£SSOJVS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 21 KEY TO DAISY 1-^002 A- 24 8 1 Jl-2656 B-2620 5-2638 QrZ<6Z\ D-26E2 E-E625 F-£6E4 KEY TO STRAWBERRY 0-2002 l-;2060 S-2060a 3-2061 8-2065 S-2066 A-2481 B-2620 C-2621 D-262& E-2623 F-2624 KEY TO VIOLET 1- 2790 A-2620 2- 2791 B-2621 5- 2792 C-2622 4- 2793 D-2625 5- 2794 E-2624 6- 2795 DIAGRAM SHOWING COLOR DISTRIBUTION AND STITCH DIRECTION. Strawberry — Violet — Daisy. THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. ting in the veins in Outline Stitch, with one of the darker shades of Green. Stems are outlined with the darker shades of Green. This Linen 1122 F (See page 17) be- longs to our simple set. The scalloped edge is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White "Caspian " Floss. The single line scroll ends of the scallops are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials. — Linen 1122F, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2791, 2792, 2793, 2622, 2624; I skein each 2790, 2794, 2795, 2636, 2620, 2621, 2623, 2625. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 7 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (7,9, 12 and i8 inches; — take less silk. Apple Blossom. Diagram on page 25 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen. 1 1 23 A (See page 23). Key to diagram is as follows : I — Shade 2236 a — Shade 2238 3 — Shade 2670 4 — Shade 2671 5 — Shade 2672 6 — Shade 2673 A — Shade 2621 B — Shade 2622 C — Shade 2623 D — Shade 2453 E — Shade 2624 All of the work is done solid" in Ken- sington Stitch, except when otherwise stated. The flowers are worked with the shades of Pink and shaded light on the edge and darker towards the center. Some flowers are made darker than others. A turned part of a petal is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the lightest flower shades. The part of a petal in shadow below a turned part is worked in the darker Pinks. Round center is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2622. Each radiating stamen consists of a single stitch of 2621. At the end of each stamen, place a French Knot of shade 2013 to represent pollen. In the buds, the darker shades of Pink are used. Sepals are worked with the lighter and medium shades of Green, lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. Leaves are worked soHd in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green men- tioned for the purpose. They are shaded lighter at the tip and edges and darker towards the midrib and base. Veins and fine stems are outhned with shade 2624. The thick branches are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with shade 2453, taking the stitches in the direction of the branch; they are further shaded with Brown 2444. The scalloped edge on Linen 11 23 A (See page 23) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss 2002. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1123 A, 22-inch size. " Asiatic " Filo Selle, 3 skeins 2453 ; 2 skeins each 2238, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624; I skein each 2236, 2673, 2013, 2444. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 20C2. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Carnation. A Colored Plate of this flower was fur- nished in our Embroidery Book for 1906. Diagram on page 19 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen' 1 1 23 B (See page 23) . For the flowers use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2238, 2239, 2240, 2240a, 2241, 2242, 2243, 2244 ; leaves and stems, 2560, 2561, 2562, 2563, 2564, 2565. Flowers are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch. Some are worked with the lighter shades 2238 to 2241 inclusive ; and others with the darker shades 2241 to 2244. The back or more remote petals are worked darkest; those in the fore- ground lightest. The stitches should slant towards the center of , the flower, and each petal should be made to stand out distinctly ; this can be accomplished by slightly padding the tip of each petal. Calyxes are padded and worked solid in medium shades of Green, lighter at the ZESSOJVS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 23 Maiden Hair Fefn Design 1123C. (Seepage24.) Strawberky Design ii23r. (Seepageae.) Made in 9, 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. 24 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. top and darker towards the stem. The unopened buds are worked solid in Ken- sington Stitch with Green, lighter at the tip than at the base. The leaves are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with the Greens. They are shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. In case of a turned leaf, the under part in shadow is worked darker. Stems are worked solid with the darkest shades of Green, in Kensington Stitch, taken in the same direction as the stem. The scalloped edge on Linen 1123B (See page 23) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttpnhole Stitch, with White " Caspian "Floss. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1123B, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2239, 2240a, 2241, 2242, 2561, 2562, 2563, 2565; I sliein each 2238, 2240, 2243, 2244, 2560, 2564. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Maiden Hair Fern. Diagram on page 38 will assist the em- broiderer in working our Linen 1123C (See page 23). Key to diagram is as fol- lows : A — Shade 2621 B — Shade 2622 C — Shade 2623 D — Shade 2624 Stems — Shade 2067 This fern ofEers a simple design that has long been a popular one with em- broiderers. The leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch. One shade only may be used to, a leaf or, if two shades are used, the darker shade is shaded in at the stem end. No vein is worked in the leaf. The leaves at the tip of a spray are made light and they grow gradually darker down the stem. The stems are outlined with shade 2067. The scalloped edge on Linen 1123C (See page 23) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1123 C, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2067. "Asiatic Cas- pian " Floss, 9 skeins 2C02. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and iS inches) — take less silk. California Pepper Berry. A Colored Plate of this berry was fur- nished in our Embroidery Book for 1906. Diagram on page 27 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1123D (See page 23). If it is desired to woik the berries in shades absolutely true to nature, then shade numbers 2671 to 2675 inclusive may be used. But the Red berry is generally preferred for effect and for working these, use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2060a, 2060, 2062, 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624. The berries are worked solid with the shades of Red. They are worked throughout in Satin Stitch. Berries are first raised with White Knitting Cotton ; they are then worked over in the silk taking the stitches horizontally in the opposite direction to the stitches in the padding. Great care should be taken to keep the berries round. This can be done by starting the Satin Stitch at the center oi the berry and working the upper half, and then starting again from the center and working the lower half. One shade only is used in a berry. More berries are made in the dark and medium shades than in the light shades. Those in the light shades are at the tip of the spray. The haves are worked solid, in Ken- sington Stitch, with the shades of Green mentioned above for that purpose. They are made generally lighter at the tip and darker towards the stem. The stems are simply outlined, with the darker shades of Green. LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. DIAGRAM SHOWING COLOR DISTRIBUTION AND STITCH DIRECTION. Apple Blossom — Pansy — Field Poh-y — Bachelor Button. 26 THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTHONG CO. ^ he scalloped edge on Linen 1123D (See page 23) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen H23D, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins 2624; 2 skeins each 2621, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2060a, 2060, 2062, 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066, 2620. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Holly. A Colored Plate of this design was furnished in our Embroidery Book for 1906. Diagram on page 27 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1123 E (See page 23). For the berries, use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2062a, 2063,2064, 2065, 2066, 2067, 2446; for leaves and stems 2050a, 2050, 2051, 2052, 2053, 2054, 2123. The berries are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with the shades of Red. They should be first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over with the silk, taking the stitches horizontally in the opposite direction to the stitches in the padding. Great care should be taken to keep the berries round. This can be done by starting the Satin Stitch at the center of the berry and working the upper half and then by starting again from the center and working the lower half. One shade only is used in a berry. More berries are made in the dark and medium shades than in the light shades. At the top of each berry, on the side opposite the stem and a short distance inside the edge, a single small stitch is made with shade 2446 to represent a seed. The leaves are worked solid, in Ken- sington Stitch, with the shades of Green 2050a to 2054 inclusive. In general, they are shadfed lighter at the tips and edges and darker towards the midrib and stem. Stems are outlined with the two darkest shades of Green. The thick branches are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with the darkest shades of Green, shaded with 2123. The scalloped edge on Linen 1 1 23 E (See page 23) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White '■ Caspian " Floss. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1123 E, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2050, 2053, 2054; ^ skein each 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066, 2067, 2446, 2050a, 2051, 2052,2123. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Strawberry. A Colored Plate showing how to work this berry and flowers was furnished in our Embroidery Book for 1906. Dia- gram on page 21 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1 123 F (See page 23). For the berries, use Brainerd & Arm- strong's Wash Silks 2060a, 2060, 2061, 2062, 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066, 2481 ; for seeds 2635 ; for flowers 2002, 2060 ■ centers 2622 ; pollen 2066 ; leaves, stems and hulls 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2360a. The berries are first raised high with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Kensington Stitch. Iri working a strawberry, begin at the tip shading from light gradually darker to the stem. Some of the berries are made dark and others lighter. The ripest berry has 2063 at the tip and is shaded darker to the base with 2064 and 2066. In the unripe berry, work the tip with Green 2481, shading 2060a into this and work- ing gradually darker towards the hull. The rounded effect can be produced by curving the stitches from the tip towards the base at the stem. Seeds are made with a short stitch of Yellow and Green Filo, one thread of each in the needle. Hulls are worked solid in Kensington ZESSOJVS IN EMBROIDERING EIOWERS. 27 KEY TO HOLLY 1 2062a A 2050a Z, 2063 B 2050 3 £064 C 2051 4 2065 D 2052 5 2066 E 2053 6 2067 F 2054 KEY TO GAL. PEPPER BERRY I 2060a A 2620 2 2062 B262I 3 2062a C 2622 | 42063 D £623 5 2064 E 2624 6 2065 7 2066 KEY TO BUTTERCUP 1 2650 A 2620 2 2631 B 2621 3 2632 C 2622 4 2633 D 'ZQZb 5 2634 E 2624 6 2 635 7 2657 DIAGRAM SHOWING COLOR DISTRIBUTION AND STITCH DIRECTION. Holly — Cal. Pepper Berry — Buttercup. 28 THE BRAINERD dr- ARMSTRONG CO. Stitch, with the medium shades of Green ; dark hulls on the dark berries and light on the unripe fruit ; they are shaded light at the tip and darker towards the base. Petals of the flower are first raised at the edge with White Knitting Cotton and are then worked on the edge with White Filo, and shaded with Pink 2060. Center is made solid with Green 2622, and a few French Knots of 2066 are scattered around it to represent pollen. Leaves are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with the shades of Green mentioned for that purpose, touched up with shade 2360a. For the most part they are shaded light Green at the tip and edges, and darker towards the mid- rib and stem; some of the leaves are given a touch of 2360a along the edges and midrib, thus giving them a richer tone. Put in the veins in Outline Stitch, with shade of Brown 2124. Stems are finely outlined with the darker shades of Green. The scalloped edge on Linen 1123F (See page 23) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White ' ' C aspian " Floss. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. " Materials — Linen 1123 F, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins each 2002, 2623; 2 skeins each 2060, 2062,2621, 2622, 2624; I skein each 2124, 2060a, 2061, 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066, 2481, 2635, 2620, 2360a. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. American Beauty Rose. For the flowers on Linen 11 24 A (See page 31) use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2500, 2501, 2502, 2503, 2504, 2505, 2506; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2090b; for thorns 2092. Colored Plate CXXVI and diagram en page 32 will greatly assist the em- broiderer. All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch except when otherwise stated. . The flowers are worked with the shades of Pink. The tips of the petals that show at the top of the rose are made very dark in the background and some- what lighter towards the front. The large front petals of the rose are worked with a medium shade on the edge and lighter towards the base. A turned-over part is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with shade 2500 or 2501. The part of a petal in shadow, just below the turned part, is worked in one of the darker shades. The buds are worked in darker shades than the flowers, and are shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. The slender leaves of the calyx on flower and bud are worked with the medium and lighter shades of Green, and shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green men- tioned for that purpose. Some of them are shaded light at the tip and along the edges, and darker towards the midrib ; others are shaded darker at the tip and along the edge, and lighter along the midrib. In the case of a turned leaf the under side is worked in lighter shades than the front. Around worm-eaten holes or edges, shade in 2090b in Long and Short Stitch. Midrib and veins are out- lined with a darker shade of Green than in the main portion of the leaf. Some of the leaves are given a touch of Red at the tip or along either the edge or midrib, with shades of Red 2090b and 2092. Stems are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with Greens 2623 and 2624, taking the stitches lengthwise of the stem. Thorns are worked solid with shade 2092. The beauty of our Linen 11 24 A (See page 3 1) is increased by the artistic nature of the border. The scallops on the edge are slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton, and worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White "Caspian " Floss. For prices, see pages printed in Red. ZESSOJVS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 29 Materials — Linen 1124 A, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 4 skeins 2624; 2 skeins each 2500, 2501, 2502, 2503, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2504, 2505, 2506, 2090b, 2092. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches'; — take less silk. Bridesmaid Rose. The design on our Linen 1124 B (See page 31) is one of the handsomest and most delicate of roses. Diagram on page 32 shows how to embroider this rose, and in our Embroidery Book for 1904 was furnished a Colored Plate. For the flowers, use Brainerd & Arm- strong's Wash Silks 2670a, 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 2674, 2675, 2676 ; leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623,2624 2625, 2090b ; thorns 2092. Flowers are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch with the shades of Pink. As a rule, the more remote petals are worked darker than those in the foreground. Petals are made on the edge in the me- dium shades, shaded lighter in the cen- ter and darker again at the base. An exception is the detached petals, which are worked lightest at the pointed end and, at the very point of these, a touch of Green 2620 may be used. A turned- over part of a petal is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with the light- est flpwer shade. A petal just below a turned part is shaded dark. Calyx is worked in Kensington Stitch with Greens 2620, 2621, 2622, having the lightest shade at the tip. Leaves and stems are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with the shades of Green according to the instructions on page 28 for leaves of American Beauty Rose. Our Linen 1124 B (See page 31) is a very artistic and beautiful piece. The scallops on the edge are raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked solid in Buttonhole Stich, with White " Cas- pian " Floss. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1124B, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins 2624; 2 skeins each 2670, 2671, 2672, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2670a, 2670b, 2673, 2674, 2675, 2676, 2625, 2090b, 2092. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Jack Rose. For the flowers on Linen 1 1 24C (See page 31), use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2242, 2243, 2244, 2066, 2067 ; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625, 2090b ; for thorns 2092. Colored Plate CXXVI and diagram on page 32 will greatly assist the embroi- derer. All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch except when otherwise stated. The flowers are worked with the shades of Red. The more remote petals in the background are started on the edge with shade 2244 or 2066 and shaded at the base with shade 2067. In order that the petals that overlap these may stand out distinct, they are commenced on the edge with a lighter shade than the shade used in the part of the petal that they overlap. The petals in the foreground are worked some lighter, and shaded darker on the edge, and one of the lightest shades 2242 or 2243 is used at the base of these petals. A turned-over part is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with shade 2242 or 2243. The part of the petal directly under this turned part is in shadow and should be worked with a darker shade. The two lightest shades 2242 and 2243 are used in the turned- over parts of petals and for shading at the base of the front petals. The single petals that have fallen away from the rose may have a touch of Green 2621 at the pointed base. In the bud, such part of the inside petals as is visible is made with the darkest Red and the rest of the bud is worked with the lighter and medium shades of Green. 3° THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. Leaves and stems are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with the shades of Green according to the instructions on page 28 for the leaves of American Beauty Rose. Our Linen 1124C (See page 31) is a remarkably beautiful design. The scal- lops on the edge are slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Cas- pian " Floss. I For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — -Linen 1124C, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins each 2066, 2067, 2624; 2 skeins each 2242, 2243, 2244, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2625, 2050b, 2092. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes ^ (12 apd iS inches) — take less silk. La France Rose. For the flowers on Linen 1124 D (See page 31), use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks, 2300a, 2300, 2301, 2302, 2303, 2304; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625, 2090b ; for thorns 2092. Colored Plate CXXVII and dia- gram on page 32 will greatly assist the em. broiderer. Key to diagram is as follows : 1 — Shade 2300a 2 — Shade 23CO 3 — Siiade 2301 4 — Shade 2302 5 — Shade 2303 6 — Shade 2304 A — Shade 2620 B — Shade 2621 C — Shade 2622 D — Shade 2623 E — Shade 2624 F — Shade 2625 All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch, except when otherwise stated. The flowers are worked with shades 2300a to 2304 inclusive. As a general Tule, the petals are shaded lighter on the edge and darker towards the base. The more remote petals are made darker than those in the foreground. A turned- over part is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with' one of the lightest flower shades. In the case of the large upright front petals, they arc shaded light at the top edge, darker at the center and light again towards the base. The detached petals are worked in the lighter shades with just a touch of Green 2620 at the pointed end. Leaves and stems are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with the shades of Green according to the instructions on page 28 for the leaves of American Beauty Rose. The grouping of the flowers on Linen 1124 D (See page 31) is very artistic and the design will be a popular one. The scallops on the edge are slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1124 D, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins each 2301, 2302, 2624; 2 skeins each 2300, 2303, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2300a, 2304, 2625, 2090b, 2092. " Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Marechal Neil Rose. For this rose, as shown on Linen 1124 E (See page 31), use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2630, 2631, 2632, 2633, 2634, 2635, 2636; for leaves and stems, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625, 2090b ; for thorns, 2092. Colored Plate CXXVII and diagram on page 32 will greatly assist the embroiderer. The flowers are worked solid in Ken- sington Stitch, with the shades of Yel- low. The back or remote petals are made dark ; those in the front are made lighter. The edges of the large petals are shaded dark and made lighter to- wards the base. The turned-over parts are first raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over in Slanting Satin Stitch, with the lightest shade of Yellow. Immediately underneath the turned-over- parts, the shading is made very dark. In working the calyx, use the medium shades of Green. The buds are worked solid in Ken sington Stitch, with the darker flower shades. Calyxes on the buds are made with darker shades of Green than on the LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. Jack Rose Design 1124C, (See page =9.) Red Poppy Design 11S4F. (Seepage 33.) Made in 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. 32 THE BRAINERD &■ ARMSTRONG CO. KEV TO WECHALNEILIIO5EI 1-2650 0-2092 E-2631 A-2620 3-26SZ B-262.1 +-2633 c-a62Z 5-2 634 J>-26«3| S-Z633 £-2624 7-2636 F-Z625 ICEYTO ANJEAWYROjE 1-2500 0-2092 2-2501 A-2620 3-250£ B-2621 4-2503 C-262Z 5-2504 I>-2625 6-2505 E-2624 7-2506 r-Z(,2.S KEY TO JACK, ROSE I-l 2 242 0-2092 2-2243 A-Z620 3-2244B-Z62I t-ZObb C-262Z 5 2067 J5-2623 E-2624 F-2 625 -K.EY TO- BRlDESMIDROjE 1-^670(1 0-2092 2-2670 A-Z620 3-2671 ?)-li,Z\ 4-26^^ C-26Z2 5-26 73 11-2623 6-2674 E-26Z4 7-2 6 7J F-2625 3-2676 DIAGRAM SHOWING COLOR DISTRIBUTION AND STITCH DIRECTION. " Am. Beauty Rose — Bridesmaid Rose— Jack Rose — Marechal Neil Rose. LESSONS IN EAIBKOIDEIilNG FLOWERS. 33 flowers. At the very tip of each sepal, a stitch or two of shade 2092 can be used. Leaves and stems are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green, according to the instructions on page 28 for the leaves of American Beauty Rose. The scalloped edge on our Linen 1 1 24 E (See page 31) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Cas- pian " Floss. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Alaterials — Linen 1124 E, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins 2624; 2 skeins each 2630, 2631, 2632, 2633,2634, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2635, 2636, 2625, 2090b, 2092. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Red Poppy. Diagram on page 38 will greatly assist the embroiderer in working our Linen 1124 F (See page 31). A Colored Plate was furnished in our Embroidery Book for 1906. For working the flowers, use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks 2060a, 2060b, 2061, 2062, 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066; seed pods 2620, 2622, 2624; stamens 2621; pollen 2000, 2635; leaves and stems 2620,2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625. All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch, except when otherwise stated. The flowers are worked with the shades of Red and shaded light on the edge and darker towards the center. All remote petals are made darker than those in the foreground. All stitches should slant towards the center of the flower. A turned-over part of a petal is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the liglitest flower shades. The center of each flower consists of a greater or less portion of a seed pod with its attendant stamens and pollen. The amount that shows in each flower depends upon the position of the petals. The seed pod consists of a lower and upper part. The lower part is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2622, and veined with Green 2624. The upper part is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2620, and veined with 2622. The stamens consist of single long stitches of Green 2621. A French Knot is placed at the end of each stamen to represent pollen ; some of the knots are made with Black 2000 and some with Yellow 2635 The partly opened bud is made with dark Red, and the lower part is worked with the lighter and medium shades of Green. Small irregular stitches of shade 2623 are scattered over the Green of the bud and also made to project from its edges. These stitches are to represent fibres, and should be made very fine with a split thread of the Filo Silk. Leaves are worked with the shades of Green enumerated above for that pur- pose. They are shaded light at the tip and darker towards the stem. Put in tlie veins in Outline Stitch, with a darker shade of Green than used for the main portion of the leaf. Stems are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with the two darkest shades of Green, taking the stitches lengthwise of the stem. Short stitches are taken at right angles to either side of the stem, with a split thread of Filo 2623 to represent fibres. The scalloped edge on our Linen 1 1 24 F (See page 31) is first raised with While Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1124 F, 22-inch size. " Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2062, 2062a, 2620, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2625; I skein each 2060a, 2060b, 2061, 2063, 2064, 2065-, 2066,2000, 2635, 2621. "Asiatic Caspian'' Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Wild Carrot. This beautiful design on our Linen 1 125 A (See page 36) is very handsome 34 THE BRAINERD &• ARMSTRONG CO. if done in all White ; but the following instructions are for doing the work in light colors, for which use Brainerd & Armstrong's Silks ; for the flowers, shades 2002, 2150a; for leaves and stems 2830, 2831, 2832, 2832a. Each small flower in the cluster con- sists of a French Knot, which knots are made with shades 2002 and 2150a. The White and Pink knots may be intermin- gled or all the Pink knots may be grouped near the center of the cluster. Radiating stems connecting the cluster of flowers with the stem are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with shade 2831. Stenls are worked solid in the same stitch, shading from 2832 at the top to 2832a at the bottom. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with the shades of Green. They are shaded lighter at the tip and edges and darker towards the midrib and base. The scalloped edge of our Linen 1 1 25 A (See page 36) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White "Caspian" Floss. The inside small scrolls are raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with the same silk. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1125A, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 5 skeins 2002 ; 3 skeins each 2150a, 2831, 2832a; 2 skeins each 2830, 2832. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Dandelion Blow. The design on our Linen 1125 B (See page 36) is a splendid one for working in all White. For working it in colors fol- low the instructions as given below, using Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks as follows: For buds, shades 2012, 2013, 2014; for seed blows 2620, 2621, 2622, 2003, 2870; for leaves and stems 2620, 2621, 2622, 2622a. A Colored Plate was furnished in our Embroidery Book for 1906 which will be of assistance. There are two closed buds that require the only Yellow in the design. The up- right petals are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with the shades of Yellow 2012, 2013, 2014, shaded light at the t p and darker towards the base. The petals in the background are made darker than those in the foreground. Sepals are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with Greens 2621 and 2622, the lighter shade at the tip. There are seed blows with two kinds of centers. Select one having an oval center with spikes. This oval center is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in vertical Satin Stitch, with shade 2622. The small spikes are worked in the same stitch, with shade 2621. Sepals are worked with shades 2621 and 2622, as explained above for the Yellow buds. Each stamen consists of a single stitch of 2620. Pointed seeds consist of several fine stitches worked to a point*; some of the seeds are made with 2002 and others with 2870. The other kind of seed blow is worked in the same manner, except that the round center is simply worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2621. Leaves are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with the lightest shade xA Green at the tip and using shades of Green gradually darker dcwn through the leaf; darkest shade at the stem. Stems are made solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with the darkest shades of Green. The scalloped edge of our Linen 11 25 B (See page 36) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White "Caspian" Floss. The inside small scrolls are raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with the same silk. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1125 B, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins each 2621, 2622; 2 skeins each 2003, 2870, 2620, 2622a; I skein each 2012, 2013 2014. "Asiatic Cas- pian" Floss, 9 sieins 2002. Smaller sizes — ^12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 35 Chrysanthemum. Diagram on page 19 will assist the em- broiderer in working our Linen 1125 C (See page 36). In our Embroidery Book for 1906 was furnished a Colored Plate. To work the flowers in Yellow, use Brain- erd & Armstrong's Wash Silks in shades 2630, 2631, 2632, 2633, 2634, 263s, 2636, 2637, 2638, 2639; leaves and stems 2620, 2621,2622,2623,2624,2625. Tn the flower, the tips of the petals are always made light and shaded darker towards the base. The more remote petals are made darkest, and those in the foreground lightest. The petals are worked solid in Kensington Stitch. Petals that overlap should be worked in a shade that will contrast strongly with those that are overlapped. One or two flowers on this piece are made darker color than the remainingones. The partly opened flowers are made in darker shades than the full- blown flowers. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green. They are shaded light at their tips and edges and darker towards the midrib and base. In some few cases, they are shaded darker on the edges and lighter towards the mid- rib. Veins and slender stems are outlined with the darkest Green. Thicker stems are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with the darkest Green shades. The scalloped edge of this Linen 1125 C (See page 36) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian " Floss. The inside small scrolls are raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with the same silk. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials— lAxve.n 1125 C, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 slieins each 2632, 2633, 2634, 2635, 2620, 2621, 2624, 2625; I sl ARMSTRONG CO Rose Bud and Forget-Me-Not Design 1126A. (Seepeges/.) Pansv and Maiden Hair Fern Design 1126B. (See page 37.) Made in 12, 18 and 2:-inch sizes. LESSOAS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 37 Materials — Linen 1125 D, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2670a, 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2630, 2631, 2632, 2482, 2483, 2484; I skein each 2672, 2673, 2674, 24S1, 2485. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Rose Buds and Forget-Me-Nots. In this Linen 1126 A (See page 36), two flowers are beautifully combined. Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks are used as follows: For rose buds 2671, 2673, 2674; for rose leaves, sepals and stems, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623; for forget-me-nots 2030, 2031, 2150a; for forget-me-not leaves and stems 2620, 262 1 , 2622, 2623. All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch, unless otherwise stated. In the rose buds where the inside flower shows, it is worked in the shades of Pink, lighter at the top and darker towards the base. Some of the buds are made darker than others. Sepals are worked in the lighter and medium shades of Green, lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. The base of bud is worked solid, with the darkest Green. Instructions for rose leaves and stems may be found on page 28. Forget-me-nots are worked with shades of Blue and occasional touch of Pink, all in solid Satin Stitch. Two shades of Blue may be used in the same flower, but not in the same petal. Stitches slant towards the center. In some of the lighter petals work in a -few stitches of 2150a. This same Pink may be used to work an occa- sional bud. A French Knot of 2016 is placed in the center of each open flower. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green. They are shaded light at the tip and darker towards the stem. Stems are outlined with the darkest shade of Green. The scalloped edge of this Linen 1 1 26 A (See page 36) is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Cas- pian " Floss. The single line scrolls are outlined with the same. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1126 A, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2671, 2673, 2674, 2622, 2623; I skein each 2030, 2031, 2150a, 2016, 26-0, 2621. " Asiatic Cas- pian" Floss, 8 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Pansy and Maiden Hair Fern. Linen 1 1 26 B (See page 36) is another combination design. Diagram on page 25 will assist in working the pansies. Full instructions for the maiden hair fern may be found on page 24. Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks are used as follows: for pansies 2520, 2521, 2522, 2522a, 2523, 2524, 2040, 2012, 2013, 2015, 2742; for pansy leaves 2620, 2621,2622, 2623, 2624; for maiden hair fern, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624, 2067. All of the work is done solid in Ken- sington Stitch, unless otherwise stated. Instructions for the maiden hair fern are found on page 24. The pansies are worked mainly with the shades of Purple. The petals are usually shaded light on the edge and darker toward the center. The single or double sacs at the center are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2742. In all of the pansies, the four lower front petals are. streaked with Yellow 2015. 'In the case of a turned part of a petal, that part is slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with the lightest flower shade. In the diagram on page 25 we have endeavored to make one way of working a bud quite plain by printing in the shade numbers. Leaves are worked with the shades of Green and shaded lighter at the tip and edges and darker towards the midrib and base. Veins are outlined with one of the darkest shades of Green. The scalloped edge of our Linen 1 1 26 B (See page 36) is raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. DIAGRAM SHOWING COLOR DISTRIBUTION AND STITCH DIRECTION. Sweet Pea — Red Poity — R'aiden Hair Fekn — La France Rose. LESSONS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 39 solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White " Caspian" Floss. Some of these scallops terminate in single lines which are out- lined with the White " Caspian." French Knots inside some of the scallops are made with White " Caspian " Floss. Long single scroll lines are outlined with Green Filo 2742. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1126B, 22-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 2 skeins each 2621, 2622, 2624; I skein each 2520, 2521, 2522, 2522a, 2523, 2524, 2040, 2012, 2013, 2015, 2742, 2620, 2623, 2067. ' Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 8 skeins 2002^ Smaller sizes — (12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Easy Brier Stitch Designs. These designs are so popular because the stitch is one of the easiest embroidery stitches and the work in the pieces is so simple that it can be done by the very young or the very aged ; and when the work has been completed, a very beautiful centerpiece or doily is the result. Brier Stitch Design 1128 A. This very pretty design (See Colored Plate CXXVIII) is of a very easy nature, as the principal stitch is the simple Brier Stitch (sometimes called Feather Stitch). All of the scroll lines in the design are worked in Brier Stitch, with our shaded Green "Caspian" Floss 2906. The round jewels are first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch ; some with shade 2742 and some with shade 2743. Scalloped edge of this Linen 1128A (See Colored Plate CXXVIII) is slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White Mountmellick Silk, size FF. x For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1128A, 22-inch size. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 6 skeins 2906 ; 2 skeins each 2742, 2743. "Asiatic" Mount- mellick Silk, size FF, 9 skeins 2002. Smaller si^es— (9, 12 and 18 inches)— take less silk. Brier Stitch Design 1128B. Another pretty and simple design in Brier Stitch is our Linen 1128B (See Colored Plate CXXVIII). All of the scroll lines in the design are worked in Brier Stitch, with our shaded Opalescent " Caspian " Floss 2907. The round jewels are first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch ; the center jewel in a cluster of five is worked with shade 2473 and all the other jewels with shade 2472. Scalloped edge of this Linen 1128B (See Colored Plate CXXVIII) is slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White Mountmellick Silk, size FF. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Linen 1128B, 22-inch size. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 8 skeins 2907; 2 skeins 2472 ; i skein 2473. " Asiatic" Mount- mellick Silk, size FF, 10 skeins 2002. Smaller sizes — (9, 12 and 18 inches) — take less silk. Wild Rose Table Set 1127. The complete set is illustrated on page 40 and consists of one 22-inch cen- terpiece, six 1 2-inch plate doilies and six 7-inch tumbler doilies. Separate single pieces will be furnished, although a reference to the Red pajes in the back of the book will show that the price is less when the entire set is purchased together. The design is equally good for working throughout in White silk or for working in the natural Pink and Green shades of the wild rose. Inasmuch as the instructions for wor ing wild roses are fully given on pa; 15 and 16, it is only necessary to h'-'e give a list of the colored silks requiied for working the different sizes. For working a 22-inch Centerpiece, use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks as follows: Filo Selle, 3 skeins each 2622, 2623 ; 2 skeins each 2672, 2673, ^674 2620, 40 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. WILD ROSE TABLE SET 1127 (See page 39). Z£SSOJVS IN EMBROIDERING FLOWERS. 41 2624, 2625 ; I skein each 2670a, 2670b, 2670,2671,2675, 2632, 2635, 2362, 2621. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 8 skeins 2002. For working a 12-inch Plate Doily. Filo Selle, I sk;in each 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 2674,2632,2635, 2362, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2624 ; " Caspian " Floss, 3 skeins 2002. For vrorfcing a 7-inch Tumbler Doily. Filo Selle, I skein each 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 2632, 263s, 2362, 2621, 2622, 2623 " Caspian " Floss, i skein 2002. Marking Clothing. Marking clothing and other articles is necessary for convenience in sorting the family wash or to avoid loss when sent to public laundries. One way is to embroider one's initials in Brainerd & Armstrong's Filo Selle. If this is not practical there is nothing better than Payson's Indelible Ink. With a bottle of this ink and a common pen one can easily mark table-cloths, napkins, sheets, pillow cases, towels, shirts, collars, cuffs, etc. Briggs' Crystal Marking Pen will be found very convenient, and particu- larly for marking coarse articles, like towels, crash, etc. For articles having too rough a surface for pen work, use linen tape on which your name is written many times with this ink. Cut off the tape as wanted and sew on to stock- ings, etc. Caution. So many ladies are writing us all the time, saying that they regret the day they ever tried any other embroidery silk than Brainerd & Armstrong's, that we feel it to be our duty to warn all embroiderers against any of the cheap, inferior brands of silks, called Wash Silks. Sometimes dealers succeed in persuad- ing ladies to try some of these other brands, on which they can make a larger profit, and too often the embroidei-er finds, when she launders the finished embroid- ery, that the colors run and stain the linen and ruin the piece of work, so that notoalj'the money that she has spent for the linen and silk is wasted, but also her valuable time in embroidering the article. A lady, who places any value at all upon her time, cannot afford to use any silk but the best, and Brainerd & Arm- strong's has been known to be the best, by all embroiders, for many years. Every skem of Brainerd & Armstrong's "Asiatic Dye " Embroidery Silk is guar- anteed to stand washing in hot water and soap, without loss of color or injury to the most delicate fabric. Insist upon having Brainerd & Arm- strong's Wash Silks and refuse to take any other. If your dealer cannot supply you Brainerd & Armstrong's and will not procure it for you, send direct to The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union Street, New London, Conn., and they will see that your order is filled the day it is received, by some one of their customers. BARBARA PERFORATOR Make your own Perforated Patterns for Embroidery. Pyragrapby Lace Work. As easy as writing with a pen. PRICE $6.00 Send for Catalogue No. 3 and Testimoniab. Address, L RUFFNER, 437 4ih Ave., N. Y. City. SPECIAL OFFER. With each order (your own selections) for an Infant's First Outfit amount- ing to $20, or more, we will include a copy of the at- tractive Record Book, "Biography of Our Baby." Regularprice,Si.5o. Send for illustrated catalogue containing a -.- — 7— \ list of infants' /iDMOHD KMXHMHHBXHNBCHBMBtaHHHHBHBBBBRHBNHXHHHBMag DXDXaXDBDHDBDHaBaBDHQBOHDBDKDBlDHDBDBDBa BOOK OF CROSS STITCH DESIGNS. Contains a large variety of patterns to work borders on aprons, cushion tops, curtains, table covers, etc.; also four alphabets and hundreds of designs for Indian Bead work, for making watch fobs, chains, necklaces, belts, purses, etc. This work is easily done, r nd is beautiful. Regular price of bopk2Sc. Catalogue of Emb. & Lace Worl(. With latest designs in colored and French embroidery, cushions, all kinds of lace pat- terns: Cluny, Biedermeier, Wallachian, and many other styles; corap. line shirt waists. Qrk^rk ^\ft^W '^° Sfi^ acquainted ^pC^B \^IICra and secure your future orders, we will send the above two books and the catalogue (60c. value) for %5c. in silver or stamps. Write at once. Addr. I • (Cream) Poudre . % f #YY /^ #1 (Powder) Savon VJ £#f»W#» (Soap) Send ten cents in stamps or ^'i\\^x atid yoiir dealer's «a///if for three large samples. Try them. Note their marvelous beautifying properties — their wonderful skin softening and clarifying effect — tli,- differenc iln-y iiinkf i'l. I'ut tzuo ivecks' tifi/i\ 'I'll. ts' hut II nu're Jiuctiou ok tiik It imc set of hoiuples sent li> tlii' - AM> ONLY ON<^J-:. Write tiiilii.y. ■iil.-i rcprcs . osT nf tJH' ■^arni.if.'^ 1 Miuii' iiiniK' iiiHi !H)drt>f MAISON J. SIMON & CIE., 305 Merchants BIdg., New York City. 1 ■ rl ; ■ . MOUNTMELLICK EMBROIDERY. @ 1 \HIS style of embroidery derives tlie f .'I • name Mountmellick from a town in Ireland, in which place is lo- ' ; i cated a convent where the work is said to have originated and to have reached high perfection. The work has been known and to some extent practised in this country for a good many years ; but it has recently been re- vived and is at present very popular by reason of its durable, rich and effective nature. It is necessary that the founda- tion for the work be some rather heavy and firm fabric by reason of the fact that the embroidery is much raised and, con- 'sequently, too thick and heavy for a ■fabric of thiri texture; All of the designs shown in this chapter are furnished on ■our special White Damask. After con- sidering all the materials adapted to this ^style of work, we ha^•e selected this as •the best and we are sure it will give the • highest degree of satisfaction. The work is not separated from other styles of embroidery by any new stitches •■ which are distinctively its own. Its iden- • tity or distinctive feature lies rather in the large extent to which it employs the heavy, raised and fancy stitches which are also employed occasionally in general art needle work. Although the designs are frequently elaborate, the stitches are simple and the work progresses rapidly to completion. The stitches that are employed in this embroidery are described in detail in our book, " Illustrated Lessons in Embroid- ery Stitches," which we can send for loc. remittance in stamps. Mountmellick Wheat Design 8113. Our illustration (See page 69) shows this beautiful design, which is furnished stamped on White Satin Damask. If desired, the design can be worked through- out with White Mountmellick Silk, in which case the stitches are the same as sug- gested in the following instructions for doing the work in shades of light Yellow, Green and White. The wheat heads are worked in shades of light Yellow 2160, 2632, 2634 " Roman Floss," using one shade only to a head. The heads are intermingled, some lighter and some darker. Each kernel in the head is made in Bullion Stitch, and a sin- gle long stitch makes the beard at the end of the kernel. Stem is outlined with the same shade used in making the head, as far as the first leaf. * Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, taken lengthwise with the Green " Caspian " Floss, and shaded light at the tips and gradually darker to the base. No veins are worked. Stems below leaves are outlined with the medium and darker shades of Green. Pointed band around center is first raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with White Mountmellick Silk, size FF. The inside space of ribbon effect is filled with Herringbone Stitch, and edges are out- lined; the long stretches with "Roman" Floss 2634, and the shorter stretches with " Roman " Floss 2632. A simple border completes this center- piece 81 1 3 (See page 6g). The long scal- es MOUNTMELLICK EMBROIDERY. 69 MOONTMELLICK WhEAT DeSICN S113. MOUNTMEUJCK Grape Design 8114. ^o THE BRAINERD is' ARMSTRONG CO. lops are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with White Mountmellick Silk, size FF; the short scallops are worked in the same stitch, with Twisted Embroidery Silk 2620. If it is desired to work the design throughout in White Mountmellick Silk, sizes G and FF will be required. The larger size G will be used for the pointed central band, the ribbon effect and the edge ; and size FF for the balance of the work. For prices and other designs, see Red pages. il/a/er/rt/i— Mountmellick Center 81 13, 27- jnch size. "Asiatic Roman " Floss, 7 skeins 2632 ; 6 skeins 2634 ; 3 skeins 21^0. "Asiatic Caspian " Floss, 3 skeir.s 26:0 ; 2 skeins each 2621, 2622, 2622a. "Asiatic" Twisted Em- broidery Silk, 3 skeins 2620; "Asiatic"' Mountmellick Silk, White 2C02, 15 skeins size FF. Made also in 12, 22 and 36-inch sizes. For working throughout with "Asiatic' Mountmellick Silk, White 2002, use 15 skeins size FF; 25 skeins size G. Mountmellick Grape Design 81 14. This splendid design, as shown on page 69, is furnished stamped on White Satin Damask. If desired, the design can be worked throughout with White Mount- mellick Silk, in which case the stitches are the same as suggested below for doing the work in shades of Purple and Green. Each grape is raised quite high with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid with Purple, in Satin Stitch taken crosswise of the grape. One shade only is used to a grape. The grapes at the tip of the bunch are made lightest and they grow gradually darker to the base of the bunch. Stems to grapes are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2834. Leaves are worked with Green in the stitches indicated by the stamping. In - the case of the larger sized leaves, the Long and Short Stitch on the edge of one half is made with Green 2831 ; the edgfe of the other half is outlined with 2832, and French Knots made with the same ; midrib and veins are outlined with 2833, and small round circle at base, worked solid in Satin Stitch, with the same. In the case of the smaller sized leaves, they are worked alternately arovmd the piece with shades 2832a and 2833, and their veins outlined with 2834. Curling tendrils are outlined alternately with 2831 and 2832a. Thick branches are raised with \\'hite Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2834, shaded in spots with shades 2832 and 21 12. The scalloped edge of this Centerj>iece (See page 69) is worked solid in Button- hole Stitch, with Twisted Embroidery- Silk 2620. If it is desired to work the design throughout in White Mountmellick Silk, sizes FF and G will be required. The smaller size FF will be used for the Long and Short Stitch and fancy stitches inside the leaves, and size G for all other parts. For prices and other designs, see Red pages. Materials — Mountmellick Center 81 14, 27- inch size. "Asiatic Roman " Floss, I5»keins 2834; 5 skeins 2S31 ; 3 skeins each 2832, 28323,2833; 2 skeins each 2791, 2792, 2793, 2794; I skein each 2790, 2795, 2796, 2843, 2844,2112. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, 12 skeins 2620. Made also in 12, 22 and 36-inch sizes. For working throughout with "Asiatic" Mountmellick Silk, White 2co2, use 12 skeins size FF ; 40 skeins size G. Conventional Mountmellick Design 8115. This design (See page 71) is furnished stamped on White Satin Damask. If de- sired, it can be worked throughout with White Mountmellick Silk, in which case the stitches are the same as suggested in the following instructions for doing the work in light Pink, Blue and Green. All round jewels in the design are MOUNTMELLICK EMBKOIDERY. 7J raised quite high with AA'hite Knitting- Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with the silk. The circle of jewels around the center is worked in this manner, with Blue 2272. The stems that intersect this circle are worked in Slant- ing Satin Stitch, with Green 2180a. At the end of this stem, the leaf having the fanc)- stitches is worked with Green 2183, and the other leaf with 2iSoa, having one edge Long and Short Stitch, and the o\-er solid in Slanting Satm Stitch, with 2671. The Diamond Couching Stitch at the center of the flower is made with two threads of Green 2182, and a large Cross Stitch of Black is placed over each inter- section. The curved scroll of jewels, in- cluding the arrow head at one end and knob end at the other, is all raised and worked over solid in Satin Stitch; the ar- row head and jewel with knob end at- tached, with 2272; then commencing Mquntmelljck Con\ention'A[, Desk.n 8115. other edge outlined. The conventional flower, at the other end of the stem, i.s worked with Pinks, in the stitches indi- cated ; the two lowest petals having out- lined edges and French Knots of 2674 ; of the three remaining petals, the shortest one, having one side in Long and Short Stitch and the other side in Outline Stitch, is worked with 2673 ; and the two interlocking petals are worked with 2671. The longest one ending in spurred edges is raised with White Knitting Cotton be- yond the point of intersection and worked from the arrow head, the jewels are worked with the darkest Blue and made gradually lighter as they grow smaller in size. The scroll, intersecting these jewels and terminating in a spurred end near the border, is raised with White Knitting Cot- ton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with shade 2180a. The figures as just described are repeated around the piece. Round jewels, inside the scalloped edge, are first raised and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2 182 and outlined with Black. 72 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. The scalloped edge of this Centerpiece 8115 (See page 71) is worked sohd in Satin Stitch, with White Mountmellick Silk, size G. If it is desired to work the design throughout in White Mountmellick Silk, size FF and G will be required. The smaller size FF will be used for all Long and Short Stitch and all fancy filling stitches, and size G for all other parts. For prices and other designs, see Red pages. Materials — Mountmellick Center 8115, 27- inch size. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, 6 skeins 2180a; 5 skeins each 2272, 2671 ; 4 skeins 2182; 3 skeins each 2271, 2673; 2 skeins each 2030, 2183, 2674; i skein 2000. "Asiatic" Mountmellick Silk, White 2002, 12 skeins, size G'. Made also in 12, 22 and 36-inch sizes. For working throughout with "Asiatic" Mountmellick Silk, White 2002, use 12 skeins, size FF; 30 skeins, size G. A Generous Offer to The well-known Paris house, Simon & Cie, are generously offering to our readers through their New York agency a full two weeks' supply of each of their famous " Simon" preparations — Cream, Powder and Soap, thus affording the opportunity of a personal trial of these far-famed toilet Readers of this Book. requisites. This old established French house has long since learned that a trial of the " Simon " preparations invariably induces their continued use by all who .desire personal attractiveness. Their offer appears on page 67. Of Importance to Most of the ladies who receive this book will have no difficulty in procuring Brainerd & Armstrong's Embroidery Silks. As soon as they ask for them at their regular store, the silks will be promptly supplied. Some ladies tell us, however, that they have some such experience as this : On asking for Brainerd & Armstrong's Embroidery Silks, the clerk tells them that they do not carry Brainerd & Arm- strong's, but they have some silks which they think are "just about as good." He tries to persuade the lady to buy the silks which he happens to have in stock, but a lady who knows her own mind will not be misled by the clerk at the counter, but will show him that she is posted about silk. She knows which is best and should never be persuaded to take the other silk, but should reply always that, as they do not keep Brainerd & Armstrong's Sillc, she will look elsewhere for it. \i you are persuaded to take the other silk, you will enable the storekeeper to Embroiderers, make a larger profit than he could perhaps make if he were carrying Brainerd & Armstrong's, because he may have to pay more for our silk. It is worth more. The reason that it is worth more is because it costs us considerably, more to dye our silks so that the colors will be absolutely fast, than it costs other people to dye the kind of colors they do, which are liable to run in laundering the finished piece of work. If you buy the other silk, you run the chance of finding, when you launder your finished piece of embroidery, that the colors will run into the linen and ruin your work. The safe way, the sure way by which you will run no risk whatever, is to use no silk but Brainerd & Arm- strong's. If your dealer does not keep it and is not willing to get it for you, then send your order to the Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union Street, New London, Conn., with remittance, and they will see that your order is carefully filled the day it is received, by a retail store. SHADOW EMBROIDERY. X= SHADOW EMBROIDERY is popu- lar because of its daintiness and the ease and rapidity with which the work can be executed. Swiss organdy, lawn or some similar sheer fabric must be used for the foundation. The designs adapted for this style of work are such as show scrolls, narrow leaves, and flowers like the daisy, chrys- anthemum and others in which the leaves and petals are narrow and oblong in shape. Many conventional designs showing dots and jewel effects give good results.' As the name implies, the work is done mainly on the wrong side of the material and, in order for its shadow to be in evidence on the right side, the material must necessarily be thin and sheer. The vsork done throughout with White em- broidery silk is very dainty and neat. It is possible to procure very beautiful ef- fects by doing the work with the colored Heeeixgbone Stitch. silks. In selecting the colors that will give the best effects, it is wise to take Brainerd & Armstrong's sample card and lay the goods over the colors. They will show clearly through the cloth, and a judicious selection can be made of the colors that will give the most pleasing shadow effect. Greens and Lavenders require careful selection. Pink, Blue and Yellow are excellent for the work. Brain- erd & Armstrong's Filo Selle may be used. having two threads in the needle ; some embroiderers prefer "Caspian" Floss, using one thread in the needle ; other of Brainerd & Armstrong's silk threads also are sometimes recommended. The work done ph the reverse side of the goods is in Ismit Stitch, which is a simple adaptation of the Herringbone Stitch. The. first step i i learning to do the work is to learn how to make the Herringbone Stitch. To make this stitch, as illustrated, put the needle through at the left-hand end of the lower line ; slant the silk obliquely upward across the Ismit Stitch. space to the upper line and take a short stitch from right to left on the upper line. With the same slant, cross the silk to the lower line and take a second short stitch from right to left. Proceed in this man- ner across the space, keeping the slant true and the length of stitch even. When you have followed these instructions correctly, you have learned the simple Herringbone Stitch. Now the stitch that is used for Shadow Embroidery (or the Ismit Stitch as it is called) is made in precisely the same manner, except that the stitches at the top and lower lines meet instead of being separated at inter- vals as in the pure and simple Herring- bone Stitch. The illustration that we show of the Ismit Stitch is so plain that, when practiced a little, there will be no 73 74 THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. trouble in making it. It should be said, however, that in the actual work, the stitches are made closer together and produce a more solid eifect than shown in our detail of the stitch. When worked in the manner described above the design on the right and wrong side of the cloth will appear as shown below : Squares and circles sometimes appear in the design. In making such a square or circle, work on the reverse side of the cloth and carry the first thread directly across the squ.ire or circle dividing it mto halves. Each succeeding stitch is taken close to its predecessor, and each thread crosses the other at the center. This makes a whorl of threads, each 'liiili r| Detail of Wrong Side. The only stitches appearing on the right side will be the little forward stitches along the outline of the form. If well worked, they should appear sn)all> of uniform size and exactly on the lines of the design. In our picture of the right side, the effect of seme French Knots is shown. If veins appear in the leaves and petals, these are worked before the petal is covered, and, as harmony demands that the stitch used resemble the outline of the leaves and petals, these veins should be back stitched. All the other scrolls and single lines are also back-stitched. In flowers showing large seed centers, like the daisy, the center is worked in shadow effect on the reverse side of the cloth, and French Knots are added on the right side. These French Knots m?y also be added throughout the leaves and petals with good effect. In some cases, little dots and circles may be worked in Satin Stitch, on the right side of the material, with good results. Detail of Right Side. dividing the design into halves and each crossing all of the others in the center. Shadow Daisy Centerpiece 9641, on White Linen Lawn. The entire set to which this piece be- longs is shown on page 76. A single piece or the entire set will be furnished as desired. Parts furnished consist of a square of White Linen Lawn, 27 x 27 inches, stamped v;ith the design, and six small squares of Nile Green Lawn for inserting back of the square medallions stamped on the White Center. (See illustration.) All of the work on this design is done according to the instructions for Shadow Kmbroidery on page 73, using one thread cf " Caspian '" Floss in the needle. The petals of all he daisies are first worked on the back of he stamped piece in this manner, wiih " ' aspian " Floss 2002. In working the c ntcr of each dai.sy, a circle of French Knots of White "Caspian" F"loss is laid around the edge, and the SHADO W EMBROIDER V. 75 space inside this is filled with French Knots of Green 2743. The French Knots are worked on the face of the goods. Having completed all the daisies, trim each square of the Nile Green interlining and secure each one of these squares in place, at the back of the square medallions stamped on the White centerpiece, by working the band edge in Shadow Stitch, on the reverse side of the goods, with Green 2743. The Nile Green lining at the back of these medallions gives a very pretty effect. It will be noticed that a double series of scrolls run around the edge of this design. The outermost scroll is worked in Shadow Stitch, on the reverse side, with Green 2741 , and the inner scroll is worked in the same stitch, with Blue 2031. Having finished the embroidery, the entire piece is now lined at the back with some light Pink material like sateen. We do not furnish this lining, but a 27-inch square of suitable lining can be obtained at slight cost from almost any dry goods store. The centerpiece is now trimmed and hemmed at the stamped circular line, and to this edge is sewed two widths of our White Lace 7930. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Shadow Centerpiece 9641, 27- inch size. " Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002 ; 6 skeins 2743 ; 5 skeins 2741 ; 4 skeins 2031. White Lace 7930, ~,}i yards. Shadow Daisy Sofa Cushion on White Linen Lawn. (Design 9640. Size 20 x 40 inches.) This belongs to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). Parts furnished consist of the stamped ftont, plain back, and six small squares of Nile Green Lawn for inserting back of the square medallions stamped on the White front. All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect, ac- cording to the instructions for working the Centerpiece 9641 (See page 74), and the medallions are lined in the same manner. Having finished the, embroidery, both front and back are lined with some light Pink material like sateen. We do not furnish the lining, but it can be obtained from almost any dry goods store. Cushion is now in shape to be com- pleted according to the "Regular Rule for Covering Pillows" (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Pink Ruffle 7936. For price and list of cushions, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Sofa Cushion 9640, front and back. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 6 skeins 2002 ; 4 skeins 2743 ; 3 skeins 2741 ; 2 skeins 2031. I Pink Ruffle 7936. Shadow Daisy Bureau Scarf 9637 on ^A/hite Linen Lawn. This piece belongs to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). Parts furnished consist of the stamped piece of White Linen Lawn 1 8 x 45 inches and six small squares of Nile Green Lawn for inserting back of the square medallions, stamped on the White piece. (See illustratiion on page 76 ) All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect ac- cording to the instructions for working the Centerpiece 964 1 (See page 74). The piece is also lined in the same manner, and three of its edges finished by sewing to them two widths of our White Lace 7930. A reference to the instructions given for the centerpiece will show ex- actly how this piece should be worked. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Shadow Bureau Scarf 9637, 18x45 inch size. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, 9 skeins 2002; 4 skeins each 2741,274353 skeins 2031. White Lace 7930, 5 yards. Shadow Daisy Pin Cushion 9648 on White Linen Lawn. This is another piece belonging to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). Parts furnished consist of a piece of stamped 76 THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. White Linen Lawn 9x17 inches for front, one plain piece of the same 12x19 inches for baclt and two squares of Nile Green Lawn for inserting back of the medallions front and back are trimmed at the stamped edge and hemmed, after lining both with Pink sateen. An oblong pin cushicn, filled with sawdust, is either purchased at Shadow Daisy Set. 9637 — Scarf. 9640 — Sofa Cushicn. 9641 — Centerpiece. 9643 — Laundry 1-ist. 9646 — Handkerchief Case. Stamped on the White piece. Finished cushion measures abcvt 6x15 inches. All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect accord- ing to the instructions for working the Centerpiece 9641 (See page 74). The 9647 — Glove Case. 9648 — Pin Cushion. gfisr — W^ork Tag. 9653 — Laundry Bag, a dry goods store or made by the embroid- erer to measure 3/^x14 inches. The front and back are placed over and under this respectively and sewed together close around it. Narrow White Lace is then sewed to the edges of front and back, and SHADO W EMBROIDER V. 11 the pin cushion is further finished with mixed rosettes of Ught Pink, Blue and Yellow baby ribbon. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Shadow Pin Cushion 9648. "Asiatic Caspian " Floss, 2 skeins 2002; i skein each 3031, 2741, 2743. Shadow Daisy Laundry Bag 9653 on White Linen Lawn. This is a convenient bag to hang in a handy place for the smaller pieces of soiled laundry. It belongs to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). Parts furnished consist of one piece of stamped White Lawn 21 X 26 inches and three small sec- tions of Nile Green Lawn for inserting back of three medallions stamped on the White piece. Finished bag measures about 10x12 inches. All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect ac- cording to the instructions for working the Centerpiece 9641 (See page 74). The front, back and gusset pieces for bag are lined with Pink sateen. The gussets are fitted in at the sides and edges of the bag and bound with bands of the White Lawn, stitched on the machine. A strip of card- boards one and three-quarters inches wide, is sewed into the lining at the top of front and back for stiffening. A narrow White Lace is sewed to top of front and back, and the bag is further finished with rosettes and strings of light Blue, Yellow and Green baby ribbon. (See illustration on page 76.) For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials— ?>\ia.&ovi Bag 9653. "Asiatic Caspian " Floss, 3 skeins 2002 ; 2 skeins 2743 ; I skein each 2741, 2031. Shadow Daisy Work Bag .9651 on White Linen Lawn. This piece belongs to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). It is convenient for a work bag or for a general " catch- all " bag. Parts furnished consist of the stamped White Lawn piece 20 x 20 inches and four squares of Nile Green Lawn 'for ■ inserting back of the medallions stamped on the White piece. Finished bag measures 12x12 inches. All of the embroidery on this piece is • done in Shadow Embroideryeffect, accord- • ing to the instructions for working Cen- terpiece 9641 (See page 74). Trim the lawn along the straight outside boundary lines but do not cut apart the four sections. Line the embroidered piece with Pink sateen. Now by bringing the four cor- ners together at the top, a bag will be formed which is held together by binding along the stamped division lines and up the sides with bands of the White lawn, stitched on the machine. For a distance of four inches at the top, the sections are not joined and this forms the opening. Across the base of these loose points on the inside, stitch on bands of Pink silk ribbon, through which insert draw strings of Nile Green ribbon. The edges of the bag are finished by sewing on White Lace. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Work Bag 9651. "Asiatic Caspian " Floss, 6 skeins 2002 ; 2 skeins each 2741, 2743; I skein 2031. Shadow Daisy Glove Case 9647 on White Linen Lawn. This belongs to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page- 76) and can be used equally well as a case for gloves, handkerchiefs or turn-over collars. Parts furnished consist of one piece stamped White Lawn 14x17 inches and two squares of Nile Green Lawn for lining the square medal- lions stamped on the White lawn piece. The finished case measures 4^x16 inches. All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect ac- cording to the instructions for working the Centerpiece 9641 (See page 74). Line the embroidered piece with Pink sateen and hem along the stamped lines. Also use the sateen to make a pocket, three inches wide and the entire distance across 78 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. the lower part, inside the case. The edges of the flap are trimmed with White Lace (See illustration on page 76), and the case is further ornamented with a rosette of mixed light Blue, Pink and Yellow baby ribbon. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Glove Case 9647. " Asiatic Caspian " Floss 2 skeins 2002 ; i skein each •2741 ' 2743. 2031. Shadow Daisy Handkerchief Case 9646 on White Linen Lawn. This belongs to our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). Parts furnished con- sist of one piece of stamped White Linen Lawn 16x25 inches and one square of Lawn, for inserting back of the square Nile Green medallion stamped on the White piece. Finished case measures 8x8 inches folded. All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect ac- cording to the instructions for working Centerpiece 9641 (See page 74). Having finished the embroidery, the White piece is trimmed to the stamped boundary lines and lined with Pink sateen, and hemmed on the edge. The sateen is also used to make a six inch pocket at the lower end, inside the case. The side flaps are folded inside, and the case folded as shown in the illustration on page 76. The outside flap has its edges trimmed with White Lace and is further adorned with a rosette of mixed light Blue, Green and Pink be by ribbon. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Ma t c r ia Is — Handkerchief Case 9646. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, i skein each 2002, 2741- 2743 > 2031. Shadow Daisy Laundry List 9643 on White Linen Lawn. This is a very practical and useful piece in our Shadow Daisy Set (See page 76). Parts furnished consist of one piece stamped White Lawn 10x15 inches, one square piece Nile Green Lawn, for inserting back of square medallion stamped on the White piece, one booklet with stiff cardboard cover and fifty pages, each of which has a printed list in dupli- cate of all the articles that are sent to the wash. Finished list measures s'Axy}4 inches. All of the embroidery on this piece is done in Shadow Embroidery effect ac- cording to the instructions for working Centerpiece 9641 (See page 74). Having finished the embroidery, cut off and trim the two narrow straps stamped at one end of the White lawn piece. Trim the large embroidered piece at the straight lines and then line it with Pink sateen. In the same way, line the two straps. The embroidered piece is used to cover the two outside covers of the booklet and is held in place by sewing the straps in- side either end of the embroidered piece, making pockets into which the two card- board covers fit. The edges of the book cover are finished with White Lace (See page 76), and a rosette of mixed light Blue, Pink and Nile Green baby ribbon. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Laundry List 9643. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss, i skein each 2002, 2741, 2743, 2031. Conventional Shadow Effect Set. Our set of four designs 9668, 9669,9671 and 9673 (See page 79) are Shad8w Designs in effect rather than in the method of working. They are not worked on the reverse side of the goods in the Shadow Stitch, but the shadows are tinted in colors on the goods and simply out- lined. Its a new idea and a good idea, because the needlework is of the simplest kind and these beautiful pieces are com- pleted at a very small outlay of time and money. We furnish the shadows on the goods, in dainty colorings to be quickly and easily finished by the embroiderer. For prices, see Red pages. Conventional ShadowEffectCenter 9669 on Tan Linen Lawn. Our Centerpiece 9669 (See page 79) is one whose real beauty is only barely sug- SHADO W EMBROIDER ) : 79 gested by the i lustration. It is one member of a set of four pieces. The design is tinted on sheer Tan Linen Lawn, and the pattern is brought out by securing, at the back of the tinted lawn piece, a lining of some material like sateen. In the case of this set, a shade of Yellow is recommended. We do flowers having their central section tinted either Pink or Blue. The top outline of these extending from one Green section to another, a distance of about one inch, is outlined with Pink 2301 or Blue 2711, according to the tinted color. All the other lines of these flowers, including the stem, are outlined with Green 2784. The CONVENTIONAI- SHADOW EFFECT SeT 966S— SofaCus'io". 9671— Scarf. not furnish the lining, but it can be ob- tained at almost any dry goods store. The lining is basted to the back of the Lawn front before the embroidery is commenced, and the stitches are taken through both the tinted front and its lining. Select for the first work the round 9669— Centerpiece. 9673— Pin Cushion, boundary lines stamped Black on all Yellow tinting are outlined with Brown 2163. Small squares, tinted Green near the edge, are outlined with Green 2784. Round center of each five petalled Pink flower is slightly raised and worked soHd in Satin Stitch, with Green 2784. All the work mentioned to this point So THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. requires no outlining with Black or with Gold Thread. But continuing the work from this point, all the remaining out- lines of the design are worked in Outline Stitch, with Black " Roman " Floss, and again, on the inside edge of all this Black outlining, is couched down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread No. i6, caught down at short, regular intervals with fine stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk. The lined Centerpiece 9669 (See page 79) is trimmed and hemmed at the stamped circular line. To this edge is sewed two widths of our Ecru Lace 7930. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Tinted Centerpiece 9669, 27- inch size. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 6 skeins 2000; 2 slieins each 2163, 2784; i skein each 2301, 2711. Japanese Gold Thread No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool 50 yards. Ecru Lace 7930, 5X yards. Conventional Shadow Effect Sofa Cushion on Tan Linen Lawn. (Design 9668. Size 20 X40 inches.) This belongs to our Conventional Shadow Effect Set (Seepage 79). Aback is furnished in the same material as the front. The front and back are first lined with Yellow sateen, and all of the embroidery is then done in exact accordance with the instructions for Centerpiece 9669 (See page 79). Cushion is completed according to the regular " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Pink Ruffle 7936. For price and list of cushions, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 9668, front and back. "Asiatic Roman" Floss 5 skeins 2000; i skein each 2301,2163,2711, 2784. Japanese Gold Thread No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool 50 yards, i Pink Ruffle 7936. Conventional Shadow Effect Scarf on Tan Linen Lawn. (Design 9671. Size 18 x 45 inches.) This piece belongs to our Conventional Shadow Effect Set (See page 79). The tinted piece is lined with Yellow sateen, and all of the embroidery is then done in exact accordance with the in- structions for Centerpiece 9669 (See page 79). The edges of the piece are hemmed and to three of the edges .is sewed two widths of our Ecru Lace 7930. For prices, see pages printed in Red. Materials — Tinted Bureau Scarf 9671, 18x45 inch size. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 6 skeins 2000; 3 skeins 2784; 2 skeins 2163; I skein each 2301, 2711. Japanese Gold Thrfead No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, I spool 50 yards. Ecru Lace 7930, 5 yards. Conventional Shadow Effect Pin Cushion 9673 on Tan Linen Lawn. This design 9673 (See page 79) matches the other pieces in our Shadow Effect Set. Parts furnished consist of a piece of tinted Tan Lawn 8x13 inches and one plain piece of the same 10x15 inches. Finished piece measures about 7x11 inches. The portion of the tinted front enclosed by dotted lines is lined with Yellow sateen. It is then embroidered. The stamped Black lines on the Yellow tint- ing are outlined with shade 2163. Cen- ter of flower is slightly raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with shade ■2.^9^. All the other lines are outlined with Black and, on the inside edge of all this Black outlining, is couched down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread No. 16. An oblong pin cushion, filled with saw dust, is either purchased at a dry goods store or made by the embroiderer, to measure 3 >^ X 7 inches. The front and back are placed over and under this respectively and sewed together, close up to it and around it. A fine Ecru Lace is then sewed to the edges of front and back, and the pin cushion is further finished with mixed rosettes of light Pink, Yellow and Nile Green baby ribbon. For prices, see Red pages. Materials— TirA^A Pin Cushion 9673. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, i skein each 2000, 2163, 2784. Japanese Gold Thread No. i6! I skein. CENTERPIECES AND DOILIES TINTED ON TAN COLORED LINEN. AMONG the most stylish things in embroidery are the designs on Tan Colored Linen. All the designs shown in this chapter are beautifully tinted in bright natural colors on Tan Linen. They are especially well adapted for use on the polished wood surfaces of center tables and sideboards. nishes a magnificent design in these splendid flowers. Alternate the roses by making one a Jack Rose and the next a La France Rose and so around the design. See in- structions on page 29 and Colored Plate CXXVI for working the Jack Rose and the instructions on page 30 and Colored Doi-BLE Rose Design 8i It will be found that no kind of decora- tion looks better on many other pieces of furniture with polished wood surfaces, and also in many cases where they are used in combination with other coverings. Tinted Double Rose on Tan Linen. Our Centerpiece (See illustration) fur- Plate CXXVn for working the La France Rose. Edges of leaves are worked in a deep Long and Short Stitch, with the shades of Green, shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. A few of the leaves are given a touch of Brown 2120 or 21 2 1 at the tips or edges. 'The veins 81 TBE BRAINERD &• ARMSTRONG CO. and stems of some leaves are outlined with Green 2624 and of others with Brown 2124. Thick branches are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2624, and thorns are worked solid with Brown 2124. The scalloped edge of this Centerpiece 8180 (See page 81) is worked soUd in Buttonhole Stitch, with Green Twisted Embroidery Silk 2621 . Single line scrolls are outlined and knob ends are worked in Overlap Stitch, with the same thread. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Tan Linen 8180, 27-inch size. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 10 skeins 2624; 2 slieins each 2242, 2243, 2244, 2066, 2067, 2300, 2301, 2302, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2124; I skein each 2300a, 2303, 2304, 2622a, 2120,2121. " Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery Silk, 12 skeins 2621. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Tinted Conventional on Tan Linen. A very handsome conventional pattern is furnished in our Design 8179 (See Col- ored Plate CXXX). Select for the first work a group having the forms tinted Blue. Outside edges of these Blue forms are made by couching down together on them four threads of the " Roman " Floss, catching this down at short, regular intervals with small stitches of the same color; the central Blue form is made throughout with shade 2753, and the Blue form on either side with 275 1 ; midrib through the center of each Blue form is made in Brier Stitch. At either side of the central Blue form, is a scroll. The knob end of each of these scrolls is raised quite high with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with Yellow 2635 ; the single line part of these scrolls is made by couching down on it a single line of Japanese Gold Thread, with small stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk, and this couching is continued around the knob ends already worked. Round jewel at base of Blue forms is raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Black. The central space of Yellow form just below is filled with Queen Anne Stitch of Yellow 2638, and a single line of Japanese Gold Thread is couched down on the edges. Knob scroll ends, attached to this form, are raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Black, and the edges then couched with a line of Japanese Gold Thread. There is a Green form with lattice effect to either side, having a double line edge. Inside these forms, the insecting lines are made by couching down on them a single line of Japanese Gold Thread, and, over each intersection, is placed a large Cross Stitch of Black. On the inner edge line, couch down together four threads of Green " Roman " Floss 2623, catching this down with small stitches of the same ; on the outer edge, couch down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread, continuing this along the single line scroll and around the knob ends, after they have been raised and worked solid with Black. Where these Green forms come on the edge of the design, their edges must first be but- tonholed. The forms corresponding to the ones described are worked in the same manner around the design. The forms tinted Red are worked exactly like the Blue forms, using Red shades 2360 and 2362. The scrolls lying between the Red points are worked same as those between the Blue points, except that their knob ends are worked with Yellow 2638 instead of 2635. On either side of each Red group is a Green leaf scroll. Its notched leaf edge is worked in Long and Short Stitch, with Green 2625; its plain edge is simply outlined with the same and again outlined by couching down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread, which Gold Thread is extended around the knob ends after they have first been raised and worked solid in Black. The corresponding forms are worked in the same manner around the design. The scallops around the edge of this Centerpiece 8179 (See Colored Plate BE SIGNS ON TAN LINEN 83 CXXX) are first slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with Twisted Embroidery Silk 2361. For prices, see Red pages. Maierials— Tinted Tan Linen S179, 27- inch size. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 4 skeins -'623; 3 skeins each 2360, 2751, 2625, 2000; 2 skeins each 2362, 2753; i skein each 2635, 2638. " Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery Silk, 10 skeins 2361. Japanese Gold Thread, No. 16, I skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool 50 vards. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Orange Design on Tan Linen. In this Centerpiece 8178 (See Colored Plate CXXX) is to be had a splendid fruit design. The oranges may be mere- ly outlined with excellent results, but the following instructions are for working them solid in Tapestry Stitch, which stitch is described in our book entitled "Illustrated Lessons in Embroidery Stitches." Each orange is worked solid Yellow in Shaded Tapestry Stitch, the stitches being taken in a direction straight across the orange from the top edge to the bot- tom edge. As a general rule, the orange is shaded darker at the top and bottom edges and lightest across the center of the orange to give it a rounded effect. In some few instances, this shading may be reversed. Some oranges are made darker and some lighter. Each petal of flower and pointed bud is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over with White, in Kensington Stitch taken lengthwise, into which is shaded 2561 at the base. Center of flower consists of a French Knot of 2635 ; each stamen radiating into the petals consists of a long stitch of the same ; a French Knot of the same is placed at the end of each stamen. Edges of leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with Green. One shade only is used for the edges of a sin- gle leaf, except in the case of a turned leaf when the underside should be worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with either 2560 or 2561. Some leaves are made lighter and some darker. Veins are out- lined with 2564. Branches are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with 2564, shaded on one edge with 21 14. In working the edge of this Center- piece 8178 (See Colored Plate CXXX) the long contiguous scrolls are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk 2 1 1 2 ; their sin- gle line ends are outlined with the same. The small scallops superimposed on these long ones are worked solid in But- tonhole Stitch, -with Twisted Embroidery Silk 2565. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Tan Linen 8178, 27- inch size. "Asiatic Roman " Floss, 6 skeins 2564; 4 skeins 200:; 3 skeins each 2635, 2561 ; 2 skeins e ch 2633, 2634, 2636, 2637, 2638, 2639, 2640, 2641 2642, 2560 2562, 2563 ; I skein 21 14. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroid- ery Silk, 9 skeins 2112 ; 3 skeins 2565. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Barberry on Tan Linen. The combination of Red berries and graceful Green foliage makes this Cen- terpiece 8175 (See Colored Plate CXXX) a piece that is su e to appeal to em- broiderers. A sofa cushion to match is shown on page 105. Each berry is raised with White Knit- ting Cotton and then worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Red, one shade only to a berry. The berries at the tip of a cluster are made lightest and then made gradually darker down the cluster to the darkest at the base. A. single small stitch of Brown 2122 is made to project a little at the tip end of each berry. The fine stems from berries are outlined with the medium shades of Green. Edges of leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with Greens 2180 to to 2184 inclusive, using one shade only for each finger of the leaf. The central finger is made lightest, and the fingers on 84 THE BRAINERD &■ ARMSTRONG CO. either side are worked gradually darker, having the darkest fingers at the base near the stem. Midribs are outlined with the medium and darker shades of Green. Thick branches are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2184 and, where these branches form the edge of the centerpiece, this edge must be buttonholed. In the case of the two circular bands around the center tinted a deeper Green, their outer and inner edges are made by couching down together four threads of Green "Roman" Floss 2834, catching this down by small stitches of the same thread at short, regular intervals. In the center of the bands, midway from the edges, couch down in each two lines of Japanese Gold Thread, catching this down with small stitches of Yellow Sew- ing Silk. For' prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Tan Linen 8175, 27- inch size. "Asiatic Roman" p'loss, 18 slceins 184; 4 skeins each 2182, 2183, 2834; 3 skeins each 2063, 2064; 2 skeins each 2062, 2062a, 2065, 2066, 2180, 2180a, 2181 ; I skein 2122. Japanese Gold Thread No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool 50 yards. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Virginia Creeper on Tan Linen. The foliage as used on our Centerpiece 8182 (See Colored Plate CXXX) is tinted in the bright colors for which this plant is famous in the Autumn season, and the piece is a very beautiful one when finished. Each separate berry is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, taken across the berry with Purple. One shade only is used to a berry, but some berries in a cluster are made lighter and some darker. Fine stems to berries are outlined with shade 21 12. One quarter of the number of leaves are worked with line of Greens 2180a to 2183 inclusive; one quarter, with line of Greens 2050 to 2053 inclusive ; one quar- ter, with line of Greens 2561 to 2564 inclu- sive; and one quarter, with shade 4100. The leaves that are worked with 4100 are the ones tinted in the more pronounced Autumn shades. Leaves worked with Green line 2561 to 2564 are quite exten- sively shaded with Brown 2121 and 2123. The leaves in these several color schemes are intermingled^ so that leaves of the same color scheme may not be grouped together. Edges of the leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, generally lighter at the tip than at the base. Mid- ribs and veins are outlined with the Browns and darker Greens. Thick branches are worked in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2052, and shaded on one edge with 21 12. Curling tendrils are made by couching down on them a single line of Japanese Gold Thread, catching this down by small stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk. Edges of sticks, in lattice effect at cen- ter, are made by couching down together on them four threads of "Roman " Floss, catching this down with small stitches of the same, at short, regular intervals; make the first stick with Brown 2441, the next with Brown 2443, and thus alter- nately. Shadows where the sticks cross are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with Brown 2443. Nail heads are slightly raised and worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2182. In working the scalloped edge of this Centerpiece 8182 (See Colored Plate CXXX), the long scallops are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with "Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery Silk 21 11, and the small superimposed scallops in the same stitch, with Twisted Embroidery Silk 2113. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Tan Linen 8182, 27- inch size. "Asiatic Roman " Floss, ,5 skeins each 4100, 2443 ; 4 skeins 2052 ; 3' skeins 2441; 2 skeins each 2181, 2182,2183, 2121, 2051, 2112; 1 skein each 2792, 2794, 2796, 2797, 2844, 2845, 2180a, 2050, 2053, 2561, 2562, 2563, 2564, 2123. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, 9 skeins 2111; 3 skeins 2113. Japanese Gold Thread No. 16, 1 skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, 1 spool 50 yards. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. DESIGNS ON TAN LINEN. 85 Wild Rose Design 8181. (See page 86.) Red Poppy Dbsign 8184. (See page 86,) 86 THE BRAINERD &- AHMSTROKG CO. Wild Rose on Tan Linen. The natural beauty of this Centerpiece Si.Si (See page 85) is further increased by the four border ornaments tinted in pastel shades of Apple Green. Flowers and buds are worked solid in Kensington Stitch with the shades of Pink, according to the instructions given on page 15. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, for the most part with the shades of Green. They are shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the midrib and base. Some of the leaves are given a touch of Brown 2120 or 2122 at the tip or along one edge. Veins and fine stems are for the most part outlined with the darkest Green but, in one or two clusters, use Brown 2124. Thick branches are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2624, sparingly shaded with 2124. Thorns are worked solid with 2124. A tinted ornamental figure is repeated four times on the edge of the design (See page 85). The extreme side lines of the figure that ends in a curved scroll are worked by couching down together four threads of " Roman " Floss 2484, catching this down with small stitches of the same thread at short, regular inter- vals. The five lines separating the sec- tions are worked in Brier Stitch; the central one, with 2484; the next on either side, with 2482; the next on either side, with 2484. Scalloped edges on parts tinted Green are worked solid in Button- hole Stitch, with Twisted Embroidery Silk 2484. All of the remaining scal- loped edge is worked in the same stitch with Pink Twisted Embroidery Silk 2671. For prices, see Red pages. Material — Tinted Tan Linen 8iSi, 27- inch size. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 4 skeins 2624: 2 skeins each 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2('>73, 2674, 2620, .2621, 2622, 2622a, 2623, 2124, 2482, 2484 ; I skein each 2675, 2676, 2632, 2635, 2120, 2122. "Asiatic" Twisted Em- broiderv Silk, 6 skeins 2671 ; 3 skeins 2484. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Tinted Red Pbppy on Tan Lfinen. Some idea of the magnificence of this design can be obtained by reference to the illustration on page 85. There was a Colored Plate in our Embroidery Book for 1906 showing how to embroider this flower. Petals of flowers are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Red. They are shaded light on the edge and darker towards the center. The more remote petals are made darker than those in the foreground. A turned-over part is raised high with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the lightest flower shades. Some flowers are made darker than others. Center of each flower consists of a seed-pod with its attendant stamens. Lower and upper parts of seed-pod are raised high with White Knitting Cotton. Lower part is then worked solid in Satin Stitch, taken horizontally, with Green shade 2563. Vertical lines are made over this in Out- line Stitch, with shade 2565. Upper part is worked solid in Satin Stitch, taken vertically, with Green 2562. Long stitches intersecting at the center are taken across this Satin Stitch, with shade 2565, and the edges of this round upper part is out- lined with the same. Stamens of irreg'u- lar length are made to radiate in different directions from this seed-pod with single long stitches of Black. -At the end of each is placed a French Knot, made with a single strand each of Black and Yellow in the needle, to represent pollen. Seed- pods from which the petals have fallen away are made like the one just de- scribed. The unopened buds are first raised with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid, in Kensington Stitch taken lengthwise, using 2561 at the tip and shading in succession with 2562 and 2563 to the base. Some short stitches are scattered over each bud with shade 2564 and made to project from its sides. DESIGNS ON TAN LINEN. Sy 4K Leaf and Acorn Design 8176. (See page 88.) Chestnut Burr Design 8177. (See page 88.) THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. Stems of buds and flowers are made solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with shades 2563 and 2564. Short stitches are made with shade 2564 to project at short, regular intervals, from either side of the stem. Leaves are outlined with the shades of Green, light at the tip and darker towards the base. Veins are outlined with the two darkest shades of Green. The larger scallops on the edge of this Centerpiece 8184 (Seepage 85) are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch with Red Twisted Embroidery Silk 2063. The smaller superimposed scallops are worked in the same stitch, with Twisted Em- broidery Silk 2065. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tan Linen 8184, 27-inch size. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 6 skeins each 2563, 2564; 3 skeins each 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2561, 2562 ; 2 skeins each 2065, 2565 ; i skein each 2062, 2066, 2C67, 2000, 2019. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, 10 skeins 2063 ; 3 skeins 2065. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Oak Leaf and Acorn on Tan Linen. The foliage on Centerpiece 8176 (See page 87) is tinted in the rich Autumn shades, and the finished piece is very rich and beautiful. There are two parts to each acorn — the nut and the cup. Each part is first raise d quite high with White Knitting Cotton ; the nut is then worked over solid in Satin Stitch, taken horizontally with shade 2442 ; the cup is worked over solid in the sarre stitch, taken vertically with shade 2446 ; over this Satin Stitch on the cup, work a Diaper Couching Stitch with shade 2444. Edges of the leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, using all the various shades of silk somewhat as indicated by the tinting. In the case of Green leaves, the same line of Greens are used to a leaf, and Greens from different lines are not used in the same leaf. Fine veins are outlined and thicker midribs are worked in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green, Red or Brown, as preferred. Thick branches are raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with shade 2183, shaded with touchps of Brown 2446. The scalloped border of Centerpiece 8176 (See page 87) is worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with Red Twisted Embroidery Silk 2064. For prices, see Red pages. Afa/e;-/«/5— Tinted Tan Linen 8176, 27-inch size. " Asiatic Ronnan" Floss, 8 skeins 2183 ; 5 skeins each 2442, 2446; 3 skeins 2444; i skein each 2561, 2562, 2563, 2564, 2050, 2051, 2052, 2053, 2iSoa, 2181,2182, 2184, 2110,2111, 2112, 2113, 2063, 2065, 2066. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, 10 skeins 2064. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Chestnut Burrs on Tan Linen. Our illustration on page 87 does not give an adequate idea of the beauty of this design when worked with two lines of Green and a touch of Brown. In working the chestnut burrs, each of the three sections of the outside burr is raised high with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid, in Satin Stitch, with Green ; some of the burrs are worked with 2180a, others with 2 181 and others with 2182. Over the Satin Stitch is worked Diaper Couching Stitch, using a color two or three shades darker than the underlying silk. The inside of the burr, showing between the sections, is not raised, but is worked solid with one of the Browns 2123 or 2124. The line of de- raarkation between the inside of the burr and the outside of the burr is outlined with the shade of Green used for the Diaper Couching Stitch. Short stitches of this same shade are made at right angles to the edge of the burr all around, to represent fibres. There are two different lines of Greens used for the leaves. Four of the leaves are worked with shades 2831 to 2834 in- clusive, and the remaining leaves with shades 2180 to 2185. The leaves are worked in a deep Long and Short Stitch, and shaded lighter at the tips and edges, DESIGNS ON TAN LINEN. Yellow Chrysanthemum Design 8174. (See page 90.) Cherky Design 8183. (See page 90.) 90 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. and darker towards the midrib and base. In some of the leaves, some of the points are given a touch of 2120 or 21 21. In some leaves, midrib and veins are out- lined with shade 2124; in the remaining leaves, they are outlined with the darkest Green. Thick branches are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2834. Some Brown 2446 is shaded into these branches along the edges. The scallops around the edge of this Centerpiece 8177 (See page 87) are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with Asiatic Twisted Embroidery Silk 2563. For prices, see Red pages. Materials— Tinted Tan Linen 8177, 27-inch size. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 6 skeins each 21S1, 2182, 2834; 4 skeins each 2i8oa, 2183; 3 skeins each 2184, 2124; 2 skeins each 2831, 2S32. 2833, 2123; I skein each 21S0, 2185, 2120, 2121, 2446. "Asiatic" Twisted Em- broidery Silk, 10 skeins 2563. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Yellow Chrysanthemum on Tan Linen. This is a beautiful design, as can readily be seen from the illustration on page 89. Petals are worked with the shades of Yellow in Long and Short Stitch, taking the stitch rather deep at the tips and very narrow down the sides. Some flowers are made darker than others. In each flower, the petals at the center are made lighter than the outside ones around the edge. Midrib through the center of each petal is outlined with a shade darker than the one used for the edges. Edges of leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with the shades of Green. Leaves are shaded light at the point and darker towards the base. Some few leaves are given a touch of Brown 2121 at the tip. Veins are outlined mainly with Green 2624 and 2625, but, in a few leaves, with Brown 2124. Stems are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Greens 2624 and 2625. The scalloped edge of this Centerpiece 8174 (See page 89) is slightly raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with Yellow Twisted Embroidery Silk 2636. For prices, see Red pages. Ma/ert'als— Tinted Tan Linen 8174, '27- inch size. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 4 skeins 2624; 3 skeins each 2622, 2625 ; 2 skeins each 2633, 2634, 2635, 2620, 2621, 2623; I skein each 2630, 2631, 2636, 2637, 2638, 2639, 2121, 2124. " Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, 10 skeins 2636. Made also in 12 and 35-inch sizes. Cherry on Tan Linen. This bright, luscious fruit makes a very beautiful effect against the Tan back- ground (See page 89). Each cherry is first raised high with White Knitting Cotton and then worked over solid in Kensington Stitch, taken in the direction from top to bottom of cherry. The shades of Red are used, and about two or three shades to a cherry. Some are shaded dark at the stem and gradually lighter 'to the opposite edge. In others this shading is reversed. Some are shaded lighter on one side and darker on the other. For outlining the fine stems, use shades 21 12, 21 13 and 2452. 'Leaves are outlined with the shades of Green 2450 to 2453 inclusive, making them lighter at the tip and gradually darker to the base. Midribs and veins are outlined with the medium and darker shades of Green. * Thick branches and circular band around center are made solid in Slanting . Satin Stitch, with Green 2454, shaded in places with 21 12, 21 13 and 21 14. The scalloped edge of this Centerpiece 8183, (See page 89) is worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with " Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery Silk 2062a. Single lines are outlined, and knob ends are worked in Overlap Stitch with the same. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Tan Linen 81S3, 27-inch size. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 6 skeins 2454 ; 4 skeins each 2063, 2064 ; 3 skeins each 2062a, 2065; 2 skeins each 2062, 2451, 245a, 2453; I skein each 2966, 2067, 241^0, 2112,2113, 2i'4' "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Si'lk, 12 skeins 2062a. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. DESJGNS ON TAN LINEN. 91 Holly on Tan Linen. A beautiful piece in this design so sug- gestive of the Christmas season is fur- nished in our Centerpiece 8185 (See illustration below). The berries are raised and worked solid with the shades of Red, in accord- ance with the" instructions for holly ber- ries on page 26. around center are worked solid in Slant- ing Satin Stitch, with Green 2183, slight- ly shaded at intervals with shade 2124. Scallops on edge of this Centerpiece Si 85 (See below) are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with Twisted Em- broidery Silk; the scallops that project inside into the linen with shade 2622a and the other scallops with shade 2621. Holly Design 8185 Edges of leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch , with the shades of Green. They are shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. In the case of a turned leaf, the under side of the leaf is worked lighter color than the top side. Veins and midribs are outlined with 2124. Thick branches and circular band For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Tan Linen S1S5, 27- inch size. "AsiaticTloman " Floss, 8 slieins 2183; 3 skeins eacii 2iSj, 21J4; 2 skeins each 2062a, 2063, 2064, 2065, 2c66, 21S1; I skein each 21S0, 2iSoa, 2184, 2446. "Asiatic" Twisted Einhroiderv Silk, 9 skeins 2621; 3 skeins 2622a. Made also in 12 and 36-inch sizes. Silks in Holders use Brainerd & Embroiderers who Armstrong's silks in Holders not only have the advantage of using the best silks in the world in the most convenient form, but they can return the empty Holders and receive valuable prizes for them. See back pages of this book for prize offers. i 1 TINTED SOFA CUSHIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. See chapters on Shadow, Eyelet, Biedermaier and Wallachian Embroidery for other Cushions. HANDSOME sofa cushions are always in style and a welcome addition to the furnishings of a house. We accordingly devote much time to originating and adding beautiful designs to our stock and keep in constant touch with the latest fads and fancies. The new designs for the coming season are stamped in colors and very handsome. The advantage of having the design stamped in natural colors (usually called " tinted ") is that a very beautiful finished result can be obtained with very little embroidery, and the tinting renders, easy the selection of the colored embroidery silks and their distribution in the; piece. The embroiderer can work the piece so as to allow as much or as little of the tinting to show as her own individual taste may approve. If she prefers, she can treat the piece just as she would one stamped in the ordinary manner and can work it so that none of the tinting will appear when the embroidery is completed. An assortment of cushions, specially designed for bachelor's apartments, col- lege men's rooms or men's smoking rooms may be found in these pages. Before proceeding to describe some of these cushions in detail, we will state very briefly the method which should be followed in fijiishing off these cushion tops, and in sewing the front and back over the inside pillow. inches, which means that sufficient material is furnished for the front and back of a cushion that will measure 22 x 22 inches when finished and made up. Hav- ing completed the embroidery, the top is prepared for mounting by dampening and pressing the wrong side until it is thor- oughly dry and smooth. In many cases the same material is furnished for the back as for the front of the cushion ; sometimes, however, the back is furnished in a fabric and color to harmonize with the embroidered front. The front and back ar£ stitched together on the wrong side, and a space is left to admit the •pillow. The pillow should be 22 inches • square and well filled with down. The edges of the cushion may be finished with a ruffle. If it is desired to have an especially rich and handsome effect in the ruffle, then the ruffles mentioned below as the ones wecanfurnish, sometimes haveplaced back of them a second ruffle, made of plain satin or other material of a harmonious color, turned on the edge and made double thickness. This backing ruffle is made an inch wider than the front ruffle but is gathered in around the pillow in the same manner. Such a second ruflle is not necessary in the case of our Ruffles 303 and 790, although it can be used if desired. Net and Ribbon Ruffle 7936 is somewhat improved by a backing rufifle. We do not furnish the cord. Rule for Covering Pillows. Ruffles. The size of the material for the cushion We carry in stock and can furnish the is usually stated as measuring 22x44 following ruffles : 92 TINTED SOFA CUSHIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. 93 Mercerized Ruffle, No. 303 is a solid, heavy mercerized ruffle. The face of the goods has a fine satin effect with fine Black stripes running lengthwise. It is a very satisfactory ruffle, measuring 4 inches wide and 4K yards in length. It is similar to the ruffles on Designs 244, 245, 246 and 248 on Colored Plate CXXXII. Furnished in Red, Green, Blue, Pink, Yellow, Violet or Brown. For price, see Red pages. Net and Ribbon Ruffle, No. 7^36 has a net foundation upon which are already sewed stripes of satin ribbon.- One of these ruffles is shown on Biedermaier Sofa Cushion 9666 (See page 47). It measures 5 inches wide and /^yi yards long. Furnished in Red, Pink or Yellow. For price, see Red pages. Corded. Satin Ruffle, No. ygo. This ruffle will appeal only to embroiderers who desire a very handsome Silk Ruffle. It is more expensive than the other ruffles. One of these ruffles is used on Sofa Cushion 230 B (See Colored Plate CXXXI ). It measures 4X inches wide and 5 yards long. Furnished in Red, Green, Pink or Yellow. For price, see Red pages. In most cases we recommend Ruffle 303 for the following cushions as the most satisfactory ruffle to be had at a moderate price. If an embroiderer wishes a more expensive ruffle, she has a selection of four colors of Corded Satin Ruffle 790. Autumn Leaf on Tan Linen. (Design 231. Size 22x44 inches.) The leaves are tinted in the bright Autumn shades, and the finished cushion is very attractive (See Colored Plate CXXXI). A back is furnished in a suit- able color. Edges of leaves are worked in a deep Long and Short Stitch. Fine stems and veins are outlined, and thick midribs and stems are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with shades of Green, Brown or Red. There will be no difficulty in making a right distribution of the colors, if the scheme suggested by the tinting is followed, and also if the instructions on page 84 for Centerpiece 8182 and Colored Plate CXXXI are used for reference. The tinted shadows on the design are not worked. The straight line border at each side is worked by couching down together on it four threads of " Roman " Floss 2063, catching this down with small stitches of the same at short, regular intervals. In- side this couching, catch down two lines of Japanese Gold Thread, with small stitches of YelLjw Sewing Silk. Cushion can be finished according to the " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92). Edges may be finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushiion 231, front and back. "Asiatic Roman " Floss, 3 skeins each 4100, 2063; I skein each 2180, 21800, 2181, 2182, 2183, 2450, 2451, 2452, 2453, 2454, 2561, 2562, 2563, 2564, 2161, 2163, 2164, 2166, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2062, 2064. Japanese Gold Thread No. 16, i skein, i Red Ruffle 303- Double Roses on Tan Linen. (Design 232. Size 22x44 inches.) This beautiful design is shown on Col- ored Plate CXXXI. A back is furnished in a suitable color. Embroider the rose with the two buds as a Jack Rose and the other roses and buds as La France. The flowers and buds are worked solid. See instructions on page 29 and Colored Plate CXXVI for working the Jack Rose and the instructions on page 30 and Colored Plate CXXVII for the La France. Leaves and stems are worked according to the instructions on page 8 1 for Centerpiece 8180. In the case of the stem where the petals have fallen away, each stamen is made with a single long stitch of 2621, at the end of which is placed a French Knot of 2016. Having finished the embroidery, the cushion can be finished according to the THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. 94 " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92). Edges may be finished with our Pink Mercerized Ruffle 303 or Pink Corded Satin Ruffle 790. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 232, front and back. "Asiatic Roman " Floss, 5 skeins 2624; 2 skeins each 2301, 2302, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2242; I skein each 23Coa, 2300, 2303, 2304, 2243, 2244, 2066, 2067, 2620, 2625, 2120, 2i2d, 2016. I Pink Ruffle 303. Wild Rose and Daisy on Tan Linen. (Design 233. Size 22 x 44 inches.) A reference to Colored Plate CXXXI will show how beautifully these flowers are combined on this cushion. A suitable back is furnished. The delign is embroidered solid in Kensington Stitch. Consult page 1 5 for instructions for wild roses and page 1 8 for instructions for daisies. The broad rosfe stems are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch with 2624, and the fine stems are outlined. Having finished the embroidery, the cushion is finished according to the reg ular " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92V Edges may be finished with our Pink Ruffle 303 or with our Pink Corded Satin Ruffle 790. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 233, front and back. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 4 skeins 2002, 3 skeins 2624 ; 2 skeins each 2622, 2481 ; I skein each 2670a, 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 2674, 2675, 2632, 2635, 2620,2621, 2623, 2625, 2362, 2636, 2638. I Pink Ruffle 303. Conventional Primrose on Cream Ticking. (Design 9614. Size 22 X44 inches.) I'he flowers on this beautiful design (See page 97) are worked in light pastel shades of Pink, Green, Blue and Yellow. A back is furnished in a color to harmon- ize with the front. Each flower is worked in the color in which it is tinted. Select one of the Pink flowers. Its petals are first slightly raised on the edge with White Knitting Cotton and then worked with White, in rather deep Long and Short Stitch; into this is shaded 2670 and 2672 in succession, towards the center. The flowers of other colors are commenced on the edge with White and shaded darker towards the center; Blue with 2030 and 2031a; Yellow witli 2012 and 2014 and 2015 ; Green with 2741 and 2742. Around the edge of the Green tinted center is worked a band of Satin Stitch, about one-eighth inch wide, with Green 2784. The outside edge of this band is outlined with Black. The space inside is filled with French Knots of Black and Yellow 201 7. Stamens radiating from the center consist of a long- stitch of Green 2784. At the endcf each stamen is placed a French Knot, having 2000 and 201 7 in the needle together. Buds are outlined with Green 2783. Stems are outlined with Green 2784. Short vertical stitches are scattered over the bud and made to project horizontally from its edges and from the edges of the stems to represent fibres. These are made with Green 2782. Sun and rays are outlined with Black " Roman " Floss, and, along one side of this outlining, is couched down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread, with fine stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cover- ing Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Pink Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 9614, front and back. " Asiatic Roman" Floss, 4 skeins 2002; 3 skeins 2784; 2 skeins each 2670, 2672, 20CO ; I skein each 2030, 2031a, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2741, 2742, 2782, 2783, 2017. Japanese Gold Thread No. 16, 1 skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool, 50 yards. \ Pink Ruffle 303. TINTED ;SOFA CUSHIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. 95 \A^ild Rose on Cream Fancy Weave Art Cloth. (Design g6i8. Size J2 x 44 inches.) This design is handsomely tinted and easil}- embroidered. (See page 97.) A back is furnished in a color to harmon- ize with the front. The edges of the flower petals are out- lined with the shades of Pink, using the light and dark shades as indicated by the tinting. A turned part is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the lightest shades of Pink. The short, sketchy lines in the petals are outlined with Pink. Round center is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Satin Stitch, with Green 2622, and then outlined with Green 2620. Stamens radiate from this center. Each is made with a single long stitch of 2620. At the end of each stamen, make a French Knot with shades 2014 and 2019 in the needle together. The centers from which the petals are fallen away are made in this same manner. Leaves are outlined with the shades of Green, and shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. Some of the leaves are outlined with shade 2090b where tinted Brown. Veins are outlined with one of the darkest shades of Green. Stems, buds and branches are outlined with the two darkest shades of Green. The branches where tinted Brown are outlined with shade 2123. Thorns are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Red 2066. The lines on either side of the bands around the circular forms are heavily outlined with Black Rope Silk. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cov- ering Pillows" (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Pink Ruffle 303- For prices and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 961 8, front and back. 'Asiatic Roman" Floss, i skein each, 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 267^, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2ogob, 2014, 2019, 2123, 2066; 2 skeins 2624. "Asiatic" Rope Silk, I s-kein 2000. i Pink Ruffle 303. Conventional on EcruButter Cloth. (Design 9630. Size 24x48 inches.) This design (See page 97) is so artisti- cally tinted that a very beautiful result is obtained by simply outlining the forms with Black Rope Silk and Japanese Gold Thread. Material for back is furnished in a color to harmonize with the front. All of the forms and figures are out- lined with Black Rope Silk. In some of the forms, but not in all of them, a line of Japanese Gold Thread No. 8 is laid in- side this Black outlining. The Gold Thread is used in this manner in the eight disconnected oblong forms lying around the circumference of the circle, in the flower petals; the center of each flower is made entirely of knots of the Gold Thread. There are six rectangular figures show- ing an untinted band around the edges. This untinted edge around each is made by couching down three lines of Japanese Gold Thread and outlining with Black Silk on either side. The forms inside these rectangular figures are all outlined with Black Silk and further finished by couching down a line of Japanese Gold Thread along the inside edge of the Black outlining. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cov- ering Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Maieriah — Tinted Sofa Cushion 9630, front and back. "Asiatic " Rope Silk iooo, 9 skeins. Japanese Gold Thread No. 8, 2 skeins. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool, 50 yards, i Red RuflSe 303. Tulip on Drab Fancy Weave Canvas. (Design 9636. Size 22 x 44 inches.) This splendid design (See page 97) 96 THE BRAINERD &^ ARMSTRONG CO. gives a very rich effect when outlined ■with Black Rope Silk and brightened with a touch of Japanese Gold Thread. The work is of the simplest nature. A back is furnished in a color to harmonize with the design. All of the lines of flowers and leaves are or.tlined with Black Rope Silk. Around the tinted round and rectangular forms, is an untinted band, one-quarter inch wide. The central space of this is filled by couching down three parallel lines of Japanese Gold Thread No. i6, catching it down with small stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk. The couching is then outlined on either side with the Black silk. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cov- ering Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Red RufHe 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 9636, front and back. "Asiatic" Rope Silk, 9 skeins 2000. Japanese GoldThrfi'l No. 16, I skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, i ojjool, 50 yards, i Red Ruffle 303. Conventional White Apple Blos- som on Black Ticking. (Design 7503. Size 22 X44 inches.) The white of the flowers and bright Green of the branches and foliage make a very rich effect against the Black back- ground (See page 97). A back of the same material as the front is furnished. The flowers tinted deep White and those tinted a thinner color are worked somewhat differently. In the deep White flowers, the petals are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with White 2002 ; into this is shaded lightest Green 2830. In the flowers of thinner color, long vertical stitches radiate fan-shaped from the base of the petal to the edge, leaving small spaces between the adjacent stitches; edge of the petal is outlined; some of these petals are worked with shade 2830, others with 2831 and still others with 2832. In all the flowers, center consists of a cluster of three or four French Knots of Yellow 20 1 5. Edges of branches and leaves are made by couching down a single line of Japan- ese Gold Thread No. 1 6, catching it down with small stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk. The center of branches is 'filled with Darning Stitch of Green 2 1 8 1 , the stitches following the direction of the brush marks in the tinting. In the same way, the shadows tinted lighter color at the center of the leaves are darned. Cushion is now ready to . be finished according to the " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92). Edge may be finished with Green Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 7503, front and back. "Asiatic Roman" Flo s, 4 skeins each 2002, 2181 ; 2 skeins 2?30i I skein each 2831, 2832, 2016. Japaie e Gold Thread No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sew- ing Silk, I spool, 50 yards, i Green Ruffle 303- Poppies and Yellow Daisies on Black Ticking. (Design 503. Size 22 x 44 inches.]) The tinting on this design (See page 97) is so handsomely done that it would be sufficient to simply outline the flowers; but their beauty is increased by the fol- lowing partly solid treatment. A Red back is furnished. In working the poppies, edges of petals are worked in a deep Long and Short Stitch, with the shades of Red. They are shaded darker on the edge and lighter towards the center. The more remote petals are worked darker than those in the foreground. A turned part is raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked ' over solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the lightest flower shades. Central seed pod consists of an upper and lower part. The upper part is worked solid in horizontal TINTED SOFA CUSHIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. 97 Design 7503. (See page g6,) Design 503. (See page 96.) 98 THE BRA I NERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. Satin Stitch, of shade 2180. L'ong stitches of Black are taken obliquel)' across this, crossing at the center and di- viding the top into eight sections; a French Knot of Black catches down these long Black stitches at the point of inter- section at the center. The lower part is worked solid in vertical Satin Stitch, with shade 2183. Each radiating stamen consists of a single stitch of Green 2181. The seed at the end of each stamen is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with the shades of Yellow, streaked with 2 181. The daisies are worked solid in Ken- sington Stitch, with the shades of Yellow. Their petals are shaded lighter on the edge and darker towards the base. Some petals are made darker than others. Round center is filled solid with French Knots of Brown 2445. Leaves are worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with the shades of Green 2180 to 2183 inclusive, lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. Mid-rib is out- lined with one of the. darker shades of Green. Stems are worked solid in Slant- ing Satin Stitch, with shades 2182 and 2183. In working the bands tinted Green, each outside edge is worked by couchmg down together three threads of Green Rope Silk 2185, catching these threads down at short, regular intervals with small stitches of Green " Roman " Floss 2183. On the zig-zag lines crossing the bands, couch down a single line of Jap- anese Gold Thread No. 16, with small stitches of Yellow Sewing Silk. Cushion can now be finished according to the regular " Rule for Covering Pil- lows" (See page 92). Edges may be finished with Brown Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 503, front and back. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 2 skeins each 2c52a, 2063, 2018, 2180, 2182, 2183; I skein each 2061, 2062, 2064, 2065, 2066, 2000, 2016, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2445, 2181. "Asiatic" Rope Silk, 2 skeins 21S5. Jap- anese Gold Thread No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, 1 spool, 50 yards, i Brown Ruffle 303. Spider and Fly on Cream Ticking. (Design 9620. Size 22 x 44 inches.) This is one of our all tinted cushions (See page loi), the background being tinted in a rich harmony of color as well as the design to be embroidered. ' This style of tinting adds to the beauty of the design and makes the cushion less likely to become soiled in use. The back- ground is tinted in light pastel shades of . Green, Blue and Pink with shadows of golden sunlight. A back is furnished in a color to harmonize with the front. The work is of the simplest nature and done in Outline Stitch, with Black Silk and Japanese Gold Thread No. 1 6. All lines of the large web are outlined with Black " Roman " Floss, and, along the outside of this outlining, is couched down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread. The outside edges of the rec- tangular figure containing the smaller web are made by couching down a sin- gle line of Gold Thread and then oiftlin- ing the edge of either side of this with Black "Roman" Floss. The Gold Thread is not used further in the work. Spiders and flies are outlined with Black; their main lines with "Roman" Floss and their fine veinings with Filo Selle. The sections of the larger spider tinted Yellow are outlined with Yellow "Ro- man" Floss 2018. The smaller spider web is outlined with Yellow Filo 2635. Lettering is outlined with Black " Ro- man " Floss. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cov- ering Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Pink Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. TTNTED SOFA CUSHIONS 1 OR EMBROIDERY. 99 Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 9620, front and back. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 6 slveins20oo; i slcein 2018. "Asiatic" Filo, I skein each 20C0, 2635. Japanese Golil Thread No. 16, i skein. Yellow Sewing Silk, I spool, 50 yards, i Pink Ruffle 303. Bachelor Design on Ecru Butter Cloth. (Design 9624. Size 22 x 4^1 inches.) This is a splendid design (See page loi) for a bachelor's den, to be worked in simple Outline Stitch, and therefore very easy, and requiring very little material. A back is furnished in a color that will go well with the front. All lines of the large web are outUned with Black " Roman " Floss, and along the outside of this outlining, is couched down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread. In the large diamond-shaped figure, the edge of each tinted diamond is made by couching down a single line of Japanese Gold Thread and outlining with Black " Roman " Floss on either side. This statement applies to the outside edges of the two Red diamonds and the Blue diamond. The Gold Thread is not used further in the work. The large spider is outlined with Black " Roman " Floss, except the Yellow sec- tions which are outlined with Yellow "Roman" Floss 201&. The parts of pipe, tobacco pouch and cigar tinted Brown are outlined with Brown 2165. All lettering, edges of cards, spots on cards, and cigar- ette are outlined with Black " Roman " Floss. Pipe stem is outlined with Yellow 2018. Red draw string.of tobacco pouch is outlined with shade 2 1 34. Ash on cigar and cigarette is outlined with shade 2591. The fine lettering on cards is finely out- lined with Black Filo Selle. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cover- ing Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may by finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red , pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 9624, front and back. " Asiatic Roman" Floss, 6 skeins 2000; i skein each 2165, 2018, 2134, 2591. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, i skein 2000. Japanese Gold Thread No. 8, 2 skeins. Yellow Sewing Silk, i spool, 50 yards. 1 Red Ruffle 303- "Good Old Summer Time" on Ecru Art Cloth. (Design 7638. Size 22 x 44 inches.) A cute sofa cushion, suggestive of solid comfort (See page loi). The tinting is in natural colors and a back is furnished of the same material as the front. The embroidery is simple and ' quickly done, All of the lines of baby's face, hair, figure, as well as the lines of glass, lemon and floor surface are outlined with Black " Roman " Floss. The lines of piece of ice in glass are outlined with "Roman" Floss 2750. Straw is raised with Whita Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with " Roman "■ Floss 2 1 61 . Edges forming the outline b£ fan'and its handle are made by couching; down together three or .four threads of Rope Silk 2162, catching this down with small stitches of " Roman " Floss of the same shade. Veins in fan are outlined with "Roman" Floss 2162, and spaces between veins are filled with long Darning Stitches of " Roman " Floss 2 161, slanting them from the outer edge of the fan towards the handle. Lettering is outlined with Black " Roman " Floss. Now make a little bow of light Blue ribbon, half inch width, and sew it ■ as a hair ribbon in place on the knot of baby's hair. Cushion can now be finished according to the regular " Rule for Covering Pillows" (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Blue Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 7638, front and back. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, ID skeins 2000; 2 skeins 2161 ; i skein each THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. 2750, 2162. "Asiatic" Rope Silk, i skein 2162. I Blue Ruffle 303. Poppy Field on Ecru Ticking. (Design 7565. Size 22 x 44 inches.) Most unique, showy and attractive are the adjectives tliat best describe this sofa cushion (See page loi). It is one of the unusual designs of the season. A back is furnished in the same material as for the front. The poppies and daisies in the fore- ground are worked solid, care being taken to work them out in detail ; but the many flowers in the receding distance are little more than suggested by a grouping of straight stitches for each flower, no care being taken to preserve the small detail of the flower. The flowers in the foreground are worked in the heavier Rope Silk, and those more remote in "Roman" Floss. Large poppies in the foreground are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Red Rope Silk. Petals are shaded lighter at the top and darker towards the base. The poppies in the more remote distance are worked less carefully as suggested above, with the Red " Roman " Floss. Those very remote are worked with shades 2019 and 2656. Daisies are worked solid ; petals in Ken- , sington Stitch with White Rope Silk; . centers are filled with French Kiiots of " Roman " Floss 2019. Stems, foliage and background of field are represented by long, vertical Darning Stitches of the shades of Green; Rope Silk is used in the foregroimd and "Roman" Floss in more remote parts. The distant ground lines are outlined with fine, sketchy stitches of Filo 2050. Di- rectly back of the woman's head a pond of water may be suggested by sketchy stitches of Filo 2752 on the White tinting. Main lines of woman's figure are finely outlined with Black Filo. Lines of road are made with sketchy stitches of Brown Filo 2 121. Cushion is now ready to be made up according to the regular " Rule for Cover- ing Pillows " (See page 92). The edge may be finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 7565, front and back, "Asiatic" Rope Silk, 2 skeins 2002 ; i skein each 2063, 2064, 2065, 2066, 2050, 2051, 2052, 2053. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, i skeiri each 2063, 2065,201^, 2656, 2o?0, 2051. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, i skein each 2000, 2050, 2752, 2121. i Red Ruffle 303. , Hunting Scene on Tan Ticking. (Design 527. Size 22 x 44 inches.) The design (See page loi) is thorough- ly suggestive of out-of-door life, and the cushion is an especially gcod one for a man's room or den. A Red back is fur- nished. Lines of coats and caps tinted Red are outlined with shade 2064. Persons' faces and hands are not worked. Yellow breeches are outlined with 2635. Boots of man in foreground are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Black ; boots of man in middle distance are worked solid in same stitch, with 2064. Stirrups and stirrup straps of man in foreground are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with shade 2873. Saddle cloth of man in middle distance is worked solid in Ken- sington Stitch, with Black. Bridles and reins are outlined with Black. Whips are outlined with Brown 2165. Horses are outlined with Brown 2164 and 2165 as indicated by the tinting ; hoofs are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Black ; portions of horses' legs tinted White are outlined with Black instead of Brown. Dogs are outlined with Brown, except the portions tinted White which are outlined with Black. Fence and log of wood are out- lined with the shades of Brown, 216410 2166 inclusive, as indicated by the tinting. All the other lines including scenery, pond, foliage, etc., are outlined with Black. TINTED SOFA CUSHIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. Design 7638. (Sec page 99.; Design 7565. (See page 100.) Design 527. (See page 100.) Design 238. (See page 102,) I02 THE BRAINERD &^ ARMSTRONG CO. The straight hnes enclosing the scene are worked by couching down together three threads of Black Rope Silk, catch- ing them down at short, regular intervals with small stitches of Black " Roman " Floss. Cushion is now ready to be completed accordmg to the " Regular Rule for Gov ering Pillows " (See page 92). Its edges may be finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 527, front and back. "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 5 skeins 2000; 3 skeins 2^:64; 2 skeins 2165; i skein each 2064, 2635, 2166, 2873. "Asiatic" Rope Silk, 3 skeins 2000. i Red Ruffle 303. Bachelor Design on Dark Tan Belgian Linen.' f (Design 238. Size 22 x 44 inches.) This design (See page loi) is a suitable one for a man's den or smoking room. A colored back is furnished. Lines of gwl are outlined with Brown 2446 ; part of eye tinted Black is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Black; outer edge of Yellow tinted part of eye is out- lined with 2015. Cards showing face are outlined with White. Spots on cards are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with color of silk to cor- respond with tinted color. Lines of reverse side of cards tinted Red are outlined with 2064. In working the stein, the outside edges of cup part are outlined with White ; horizontal bands and lines are outlined with Blue 2714; edges of decoration are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with 2714; handle and top of lid tinted Black are outlined with Black. Pipe, poker chips, sun, moon, tree and rooster are outlined with the colors' of silk to correspond with the color of tinting. Lettering is worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Black. The straight border lines are outlined with Black. Cushion can now be finished according to the regular " Rule for Covering Pillows" (See page 92). Edges may be finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa .Cushion 238, front and back. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 5 skeins 2000 ; 2 skeins each 2064, 2446 ; i skein each 2015, 2714, 2002. I Red Ruffle 303. Novelty Loose Petal Poppy on Tan Linen. (Design 239. Size 22x44 inches.) A novelty in a,n embroidered poppy design is furnished in this cushion (See page 105). In addition to the regular tinted top, which is embroidered in the usual manner, certain loose, detached, tinted petals of the proper shape are furijished, to be embroidered and then secured at their base line in their proper places on the flowers. These petals are left loose at the top, and, standing out from the surface of the cloth, a very nat- ural and realistic effect is given to the flowers. The loose petals are numbered in such a manner that the embroiderer can tell at a glance just where each goes. A suitable back is furnished. The main design is first embroidered. Edges of poppies are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with the shades of Red. Green leaves are worked in the same stitch, with the shades of Green. Stems are worked solid, in Kensington Stitch, taken lengthwise with the darkest Green. For more detailed instructions for flowers, leaves and stems, see page 86. Now embroider the loose petals in the same manner as their duplicates in the main design, except that their edges must be buttonholed all around so these petals may be trimmed without ravelling. Having completed the embroidery of these detached petals, trim them, and with the Red " Roman " Floss of the right color, sew each petal along its base line only, in its proper place on the main design. The top of the petal should not be sewed down but should be loose. TINTED SOFA CUSHIONS FOR EMBROIDERY. Cushion may now be completed accord- ing to the " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92). Edges may be finished with Red Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials— Tx'cAe^i Sofa Cushion 239, front and back. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 4 skeins 2184; 2 skeins eacli 2062, 20j2a, 2063, 2065, 2181, 2182, 2183; I skein each 2066, 2067, 2180, 2180a, 2000, 2015. I Red Ruffle 303- Thistle on Black Ticking. (Design 240. Size 22 X44 inches.) The flower on this cushion (See page 105) is one that always makes a fine effect on a Black background. A back is furnished in a color that will go well with the front. Each stamped line of the flower tuft is outlined, commencmg with shade 2040a at the tip and shading gradually darker to the base with shades 2040, 2041 and 2042 in succession. Having worked the entire flowel: tuft in this manner, thread the needle with Filo 2793 and take a long stitch, close to one side of the top quarter inch of each line already worked and slightly beyond it. By making these stitches alternately long and short across the top of the whole tuft, a very good result is obtained and a fine brushy effect given to the top. The bulb of the side flower is made up of a succession of scales. Each scale is worked separately and solid, in vertical Kensington Stitch. The topmost row of scales is made with Green 2622a ; the next two or three rows with 2623 ; and the bottom row with 2624 or 2625. Edges of leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with the shades of Green, shading light at the tip and darker to the base. Veins are outlined with one of the two darkest Green shades. Stems are outlined on either edge, some with 2624 and others with 2625. A row of 103 small vertical Darning Stitches is worked through the center of each stem, and short stitches, at right angles from the edges of the stems, are worked with shade 2621 to represent fibres. Cushion can now be finished according to the " Rule for Covering Pillows " (See page 92). Edge may be finished with Green Ruffle 303. For price and list of cushions, see Red pages. Materials — Tinted Sofa Cushion 240, front and back. " Asiatic Roman " Floss, 4 skeins 2623 : 3 skeins each 2624, 2625 ; 2 skeins each 2621, 2622a; i skein each 2040a, 2040, 2041, 2042. "Asiatic" Filo, i skein 2793. I Green Ruffle 303. Conventional Purple Lily on Dark Tan Belgian Linen. (Design 241. Size 22 x 44 inches.) This unique design (See page 1 05) makes up into a rich finished cushion. A back is furnished in a color that will go well with the front. The part of each flower in center tinted Purple is worked with silks of that color. The three turned edges in each flower are raised high with White Knitting Cot- ton and worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch; two of them with shade 2520 and one with shade 2521. All of the remaining space in the flower up to the Green center is filled with Portu- guese Laid Work of shade252ia. Round center is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with shade 2013. Each radiating stamen consists of a long stitch of 2013, placed over the Purple Laid Work, and a French Knot of the same is placed at the end of each stamen. In the circle around each flower, the wide sections are first raised high and worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2621 ; where the line is single, it is outlined with the same. In the case of all the leaves, the out- side edges are worked with Green 2622; turned edges are first raised high with White Knitting Cotton and worked over 104 THE BRAINERD ^ xpX inches, one piece Green cardboard 3^^ x \o}i inches, one piece plain cardboard 2X x 8X inches and one piece of emery paper. The completed scratcher measures 3X x io>^ inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Filo Selle is required for the work as follows : i skein each 2000, 2002, 2063, 2121.2183, 2445. Rooster's comb, wattles and spot on side of body are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with 2063. Bill is worked solid with White. Eye is a French Knot of 212 1, outlined with Black. Part of body fe r tinted Brt)wn is outlined with 2445 ; part tinted Green is worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with 2183; tail feathers are worked solid in Overlap Stitch, with Black. Rooster's leg and tree branches are worked in a fine Satin Stitch, with 2121. Leaves of tree are worked in the same stitch, with 2183. Lines below ■ rooster are out- lined with Black. Match Scratcher L. N. 137. Mount the embroid- ered piece on the smaller cardboard by turning over the edges of the linen and glueing them at the back. Now glue this covered piece on the Green mat ; glue the emery paper in place and finish with a small bow of Red ribbon at the top. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J6IA. Ballet Girl on White Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished with each consist of one piece of tinted White Linen 9>^ x 12 inches, two oval cardboard mats, one having a brass ring, and one round piece of emery paper. The com- pleted scratcher measures 7x9^^ inches. Brainerd ■ & Armstrong's Filo Selle is required as follows : i skein each 203 1 a, 2472, 2163a, 2014, 2621, 2000. Girl's hair is outlined with 2163a; arms with 2472; bracelet with 2014 ; vertical lines above head, streamers from fan, dress, stockings and fan with 2031a; sticks of fan with 2000; lines below scratcher with 2031a. Slippers are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with 2031a. Streamers from waist are 115 ii6 THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. worked with Black ; in Outline Stitch where the line is fine and in Slanting Satin Stitch, where broader. Petals of flowers in hair and on skirt are made in Picot Stitch, with Pink 2472 ; center of each flower is a French Knot of Yellow. Leaves around flowers are made in Picot Stitch, with 2621. Large flower at waist is made in Picot Stitch, with Black. French Knots of Pink make the flowers on fan. Mount the ernbroidered piece on the oval cardboard by turning over the edges of the linen and glueing them at the back. Match Scratcher L. N. 161A. Now glue the oval cardboard with the ring, back to back, to the covered card- board ; glue the emery paper in place. For prices, see Red pages. Tinted Calendars. The three designs illustrated are fur- nished. They are to be embroidered, mounted and hung in place where a cal- endar will be convenient for reference. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J25C. Forget-Me-Not on White Linen. (See illustration) Parts furnished with each consist of one stamped White Linen 5x10 inches, two cardboards 3x8 inches, one having a brass ring, and one calendar pad for 1908. The completed calendar measures 3x8 inches. Brainerd & Arm- strong's Filo Selle is required as follows: I skein each 2030, 203 1 a, 2470, 262 1 , 2622. Forget-me-not design is made ac- cording to instruct- ions on page 37. Ribbon effect is worked solid in Slant- ing Satin Stitch, with Blue 2030 ; hearts in the ribbon are out- lined with the same. Mount the embroid- ered piece on the cardboard by turning over the edges of the linen and glueing them at the back. Now glue the other cardboard, back to back, to this one, having the ring at the back of the finished calendar. Glue the calendar pad in place. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J35. Birds on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished with each consist of one tinted Tan Linen 9x14 inches, two cardboards and one calendar pad for 1908. The completed calendar measures 7x11 inches. Brainerd & Arm- strong's Filo Selle is required as follows : Calendar L. N. 125C. Calendar L. N. 135. I skein each 2000, 2002, 2063. Bird's combs are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Red, and then outlined with Black. Bills and feet are worked solid with White and then outlined with Black. All the NOVELTIES FOR EMBROIDERY. rest of the tinted design is outlined with Black. The piece is mounted and finished according to the instructions for Design L. N. 125 C. (See page 116.) For price, see Red pages. L. N. 167. Chinese Motto on Dark Red Linen. (See illustration.) Parts fur- nished with each consist of one piece tinted Red Linen 5x1 1 yi, inches, two card- board», one having a brass ring, and one calendar pad for 1 908. The completed calendar measures 3>^xio inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks are required as follows: " Roman " Floss, 2 skeins 2000 ; Filo Sella, I skein 21 10. Chinese let- tering is worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with; Black "Ro- man " Floss; this lettering is then outlined with Filo 21 10. The lettering of motto, "Good luck to you all the year " is outlined with Black. The piece is mounted and finished according to the instructions for Design L. N. 125 C. (Seepage 116.) For price, see Red pages. Tinted Aprons. , The three designs illus- trated are furnished. Every one of these is an excellent design, and the article is of such a useful and practical nature as to appeal to every woman. For prices, see Red pages. L. N, J3J B. Busy Bee on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished consist of the piece of Tan Linen with the stamped and tinted design 30 x 36' inches. "7 sufficient linen to complete the apron. The completed apron measures 21 inches long and 27 inches wide, at its longest and widest parts respectively. Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery Silk is required as follows : 3 skeins 2445 ; • skein each 2000, 2002. In working the bees, lines of wings are outlined with White ; lines of rest of bee are outlined with 2445. Just in front of head of each bee are placed two French Knots of Black for eyes. Lettering is outlined with Brown. The Brier Stitch between the pockets is worked with the same. The edges of apron and top edge of pockets are bound with Brown ribbon to match the silk embroidery. The illustra- tion shows so plainly how the apron is put together and made up that no further Calendar L. N. 167. Sewing Apkon L. N. 131 B. directions are necessary. For price, see Red pages. L. B. 157 A. Wild Rose on White Linen Lawn. (See page 118.) Parts fur- nished consist of the Lawn, tinted with the design, 28 x 40 inches, sufficient material to complete the apron as illus- ii8 THE BRAINERD 6- ARMSTRONG CO. trated. The finished apron measures 27 inches from top of flap to bottom edge, and 27 inches across widest part. Brainerd Fancy Atr n L. N, 157 A. & Armstrong's Wash Silks are required as follows : " Roman " Floss, I skein each 2471, 2472, 2473, 2473a, 2621, 2622, 2015 ; " Caspian " Floss, 8 skeins 2472. In working the roses, use the shades of Pink and work the tips of petals in Long and Short Stitch, outlining the sides down to the center. One shade of Pink only is used to a petal, but some of the petals of a flower are made darker than others. Round center of open flowers is made solid in Satin Stitch, with 2622, andarourd the center are sprinkled French Knots of 2015. Leaves and stems are outlined with Green 2621 and 2622. Scalloped edges are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with " Caspian " Floss 2472, and top of pocket is worked in Brier Stitch with the same. The illustration shows so plainly how the apron is put together and made up that no further instructions are necessary. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J57 C. Light Blue Jewel on White Linen Lawn. (See illustration below.) Parts furnished consistof the Lawn, tinted with the design, 28x40 inches, sufficient material to complete the apron as illus- trated. The finished apron measures 27 inches from top of flap to the bottom edge and 27 inches across widest part. Brainerd & Armstrong's " Cas- pian " Floss is required as follows: 12 skeins 2031. Round jewels are worked solid in Satin Stitch. Scal- loped edges are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch. Topedge of pockets is worked in Brier Stitch. The illustra- tion shows so plainly how the apron is put together and made i;p that no further instructions are necessary. For prices, see Red pages. Tinted Shopping Bag. The one design illustrated on page 119 is furnished. It is a most handy bag for shopping and other purpQses. Fancy Apron ].. N. 157 C. The linen is of a good neutral color, suitable to look well at any and all times. L. N. IJ7B. Conventional on Dark Brown Linen. (See page 1 19.) Parts furnished NOVELTIES FOR EMBROIDERY. 119 consist of one piece Brown Linen, tinted with tiie design, and sufficient plain Brown Linen to complete the bag as il- lustrated. The completed bag measures 12x14 inches. Six skeins of Brainerd & handles are made of the linen and secured to the sides of the bag as shown in the illustration. For price, see Red pages. The CHOPPING Bag L. N. 117 B. Armstrong's Twisted Em- broidery Silk, shade 2277, will be required. Both edges of the untinted bands forming the design on the tinted piece are outlined with the silk. After the bag has been made, this embroidered piece is secured in place as shown in the illustration, by a Brier Stitch of the Blue Silk around the edges. The two handles have a like Brier Stitch running through the center. A glance at the illustra- tion will show that a bag is made of the plain Brown Linen, closing with drawn strings at the top. These draw strings may consist of Dark Blue Cord or ribbon. - The embroidered piece is saddled over the bottom of this bag and up the sides and secured by the Brier Stitch. The Tinted Cravat Holders. two designs illustr.ited are fur- nished. After the linen has been embroidered, it is mounted on an oval form of wood, one-quarter inch thick, and a nickel-plated bracket is screwed to the front, on which to hang cravats or any other articles as may be desired. Design L. N. 1 27 D is sufficiently large to be used as a towel rack, if desired. For prices, see Red pages. L. N. I7J B. Violets on Lavendar Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished with each consist of one piece tinted Lavendar Linen, 8X X 15 inches, one oval wooden board 5 J^ x 1 1 J^ inches, one oval cardboard of same size and one Violet Cravat Holder L. N. 171 B. nickel rod and screws. The finished holder measures ^'/i xii)4 inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's " Caspian " Floss is required [20 THE BRAINERD &' ARMSTRONG CO. I skein each 2521, 2522, Design L. N. 171 B (See page 1 19), the only as follows 2522a, 2002, 201S, 2622, 2623. Petals of difference being that the loop is of light violets have their tips worked in Long Blue ribbon. For price, see Red pages, and Short Stitch, with the shades of Purple, and side edges outlined. Center is made with a pointed stitch of White, with 2018 between the points. Stems are out- lined with the shades of Green. Ribbon effect is outlined with shades 2521 and 2522. Having finished theembroidery, mount the embroidered linen on theoval wooden board, by turning over the edges of the linen and glueing them to the back. Now glue to the back a loop of Lavendar silk ribbon, as shown by the illustration. Next take the oval cardboard and glue it, back to back, to the covered wooden oval. Screw the bracket in place, and the holder is finished. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J27 D. Light Blue Conventional on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Parts fur- nished with each consist of one piece tinted Tan Linen 11x18 inches, one oval wooden board tY^ x i4>i inches, one oval cardboard of same size, and one nickel rod and screws. The finished holder measures 7^x14^^ inches and is large enough for a towel rack if preferred. Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Em- broidery Silk is required as follows : 2 skeins 2272; 1 skein each 2621, 2622, 2623. Blue petals have central space filled with Brier Stitch of 2272, and their edges are outlined with the same. All the rest of the design is outhned with Green. The piece is mounted and finished according to preceding directions for Conventional Cravat Holder L. N. 127 D. Tinted Towel Racks. The two designs illustrated on page 121 are furnished. One design is in Pink and the other in light Blue. After the linen has been embroidered, it is mounted on an oval form of wood, one-quarter inch thick, and a nickel-plated bracket is screwed to the front, on which to hang towels or anything else for which the rack can be more suitably employed. For prices, see Red pages. L. N. 179 B. Wild Rose on Tan Linen. (See page 121.) Parts furnished con- sist of one piece tinted Tan Linen 7x21 inches, one wooden board 5x18 inches- one piece of cardboard of (.he same size, one nickel rod with screws and two screw eyes to screw into the top of the holder for hanging. The finished rack measures 5x18 inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery Silk is required as follows: 2 skeins 2621; i skein each 2672, 2018, 2622, 2623. Edges of rose petals are outlined with Pink. Small round center of rose is made solid in NOVELTIES FOR EMBR0I4)ERY. Satin Stitch, with 2622. Each stamen consists of a single long stitch of 2621, at the end of which is placed a French Knot of 2018. All of the rest of the design is outlined with Green. Use 2621 for the scroll lines. Having finished the embroidery, mount the embroidered hnen on the wooden board by turning over the edges of the linen and glueing them to Wild Rose Towel Rack L. N. 179 B. the back. Now glue to the back the piece of cardboard. The nickel-plated bracket is next screwed on the rack, in the position shown by the illustration. Now screw two sere w eyes at proper distances at the top of the rack and draw through eyes a loop of Pink ribbon to suspend the rack in place. For price, see Red pages. L. N. I79C. Light Blue Flower on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished are exactly the same as for preceding Design L. N. 179 B. Brainerd & Arm- strong's Twisted Embroidery Silk is re- consists of a French Knot of 2018. "Ml the rest of the design is outlined with Green. Use 2621 for the scroll lines. The piece is mounted and finished according to preceding directions for Design L. N. 1 79 B, (See opposite) the only difference being that the hang ribbon should be light Blue. For price, see Red pages. Baby's Tinted Clothes Rack. Our design is furnished as illustrated. The little men are tinted in Blue, Brown and Red, and the whole design is very cute and pretty. If there is a baby in the household, it makes a very pretty clothes rack for baby's room. It is equally suitable for any room and for any 'm^:<- ^^^ 'tlX i Hfc51 IHB9HI^. < r.H^^ ^JHUtH ^- Blue Flower Towel Rack L. N. 179 C. quired as follows: 2 skeins 2621 ; i skein each 2032, 2018, 2622. Petals of Blue flowers are outlined with Blue. Center of three lowest Blue flowers on each stem Babv's Clothes Rack L. N. 169 A. purpose that requires the use of a set of small hooks. For price, see Red pages. L.N. 169 A. Baby Boys on Heavy White Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished with each consist of one piece tinted heavy White Linen 5 x 24 inches, one board3X22 inches, one piece cardboard 3 x 22 inches and nine brass screw hooks. The completed rack measures 3x22 inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Filo Selle is required as follows : 2 skeins 2000; i skein each 2063, 2622. The lines of boys are finely outlined with Black. Small branch of tree is outlined with 2622. Apples on tree and ground THE BRA*rNERD &■ AR I/STRONG CO. are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with 2063. Ground lines are outlined with 2622. Having finished the embroidery, mount the embroidered linen on the wooden board, by turning over the edges of the linen and glueing them to the back. Now glue to the back the piece of card- board. At the proper' distances, in the positions shown in the illustration, screw tlio nine brass hooks. At the top of the rack, about 3, '4 inches from each end, bore a hole, and through these holes draw a loop of Pink Silk ribbon, about X inches in width, for suspending the rack in place. The loop is finished at either end with a bow. For price, see Red pages. Baby's Tinted Stand Cover. One design is furnished as illustrated. The figures of the babies appear White against a tinted background of Blue. The design is just the thing for the stand in baby's room. For price, see Red pages. Bahy's Stand Cover L. N. 17:^. L. N. J 73. Snow babies on Heavy White Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished consist of a square of tinted heavy White Lin'en 24 x 24 inches. The finished cover measures 21 yz x 21 yi inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silk is required as follows : " Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery Silk, 10 skeins 2603; 4 skeins 2037; i skein 2019; Filo Selle, i skein 2000. Small part of face and hands showing is finely outlined with Black Filo. Candle stick is outlined with 2019. Sides of candle are outlined with Black Filo. Flame is made solid with 20 19. All other lines of the design are outlined with 2037. The cover is finished on all sides with an inch hem which is turned under and secured by a solid Satin Stitch of 2603 on thefront. For price, see Red pages. Tinted Paper and String Bag. One design is furnished as illustrated on page 123. The bag is a convenient one for hanging inside a closet door for holding wrapping paper and string. The pocket on the face of the bag is for string and the large bag is for the paper. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J 45 B. Oriental on Ecru Ticking. (See page 123.) Parts furnished con- sist of the tinted front and sufficient plain E;ru Ticking for finishing the bag as illustrated. The finished bag measures 16x21 inches, at its widest and longest points respectively. Brainerd & Arm- strong's " Roman " Floss is required as follows: 3 skeins 2064 ; 2 skeins 2000; I skein each 2277, 2017, 2623. Central space of petals of conventional flowers is filled with Brier Stitch of same color as tinting ; edges of petals are outlined with Black. Narrow band tinted Blue across base of petals has its central space filled with Herringbone Stitch of Yellow and edges outlined with Black. Base of flower below has its central space filled with Herringbone Stitch of Green and edges outlined with Black. Edges of stems of flowers are outlined with Black. The lines of narrow rectangular tinted flgures have center of each filled with Herringbone Stitch of the color in which it is tinted and edges outlined with Black. Midribs of leaves aie worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green, and veins are NOVELTIES FOR JuMBROIDERY. 123 outlined with tiie same. Edges of leaves a;e outlined with Black. The letters in word "S;ring" are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Red. Having finished the embroidery, the front and back are each trimmed to match, with a pointed top like the illustration. A band of the goods, 4 inches wide, is trimmed to insert between front and back at the sides and bottom. This strip is made of a length tD extend from the angle at the right-hand side around the sides and bottom to the angle at the left-hand side. It is secured in place by binding the edges with a narrow Black satin ribbon. The edges of top and back flap of bag are bound in the same manner, as are also the edges of the square that is sewed Paper and String Bag L. N. 145 B. to the front as a pocket for the string. A loop of the ribbon is made at the point of back and front flaps to bag. For price, see Red pages. Corset Bag. One design 13 furnished as illustrated. This is finished with a draw string at the top and is a useful bag in which to keep corsets, either at home or when traveling. For price, see Red pages. L. N. )5j B, Violets on Tan Linen, (S=e iKustration ) Parts furnished con- sist of the stamped and plain Tan Linen, 7>ix4o inches, sufficient material to finish the bag as illustrated. The Corset Bag L. N. 155B. completed baj measures 7x17 inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks are required as follows: "Roman" Floss, I skein each 2002, 2021, 2521 , 2522, 25 23, 2622, 2623 ; 'Caspian" Floss, 1 skein 2522. The design of violets is worked solid, according to the instructions on page 2D. The letters in the word "Cor- sets " are outlined with shade 25 23. The bag is finished by sewing up sides and botto n. A two inch hem is made at top of front and back, finished with two rows of Brier S:itch of " Caspian " Floss 2522 for draw string. This draw str'ng may be either a Livendar colored cord or ribbon. For price, see Red pages. 124 THE BRAINERD &> ARMSTRONG CO. Tinted Shirt Case. One design is furnislied as illustrated. The case illustrated opens like the covers of a book, and the shirts are inserted in , ■ IHIRTS Shirt Case L. N. 143. the full-sized pockets, one pocket each inside front and back covers. The case will easily hold a half dozen laundered shirts. It is something that will be appreciated by the men, either at home or when traveling. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J43. Light Blue Greek Border Design on White Ticking. (See illustra- tion.) Parts furnished consist of the tinted and plain White Ticking, 24x48 inches, which is sufficient for making the case as illustrated. The finished case, when closed as illustrated, measures 23 inches long by 1 1 inches wide. Five skeins of Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery Silk 2032 will be required. The letters and Greek border design are outlined with the silk. The cloth is then folded, like the covers of a book, and so as to form a pocket each on the inside of front and back cover. The edges of the two inside pockets are finished with an inch hem, which is secured by a row of Brier Stitch of 2032. Sides of the case are sewed. The edges of the two inside pockets come along the hinge and are separated by about an inch space. For price, see Red pages. Tinted Laundry Bag. One design is furnished as illustrated. The top is to be finished with a draw string of White Tape, and the bag is a convenient receptacle for soiled laundry. For price, see Red pages. L. N. 139. Blue Monday on Heavy White Linen. (See illustration.) Parts fur- nished consistof the tinted design and plain goods, i6}4 X 54 inches, which is sufficient to finish the bag as illustrated. The com- pleted bag measures 15^^ X22j4 inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's " Roman " Floss is required as follows: 4 skeins 2604 ; i skein 2603. The lines of the tinted design and lettering are out" ■j^J^^SSSMJ'- Laundry Bag L. N. 139. lined with the Blue si k. Ground lines are also outlined. The sides of the bag are sewed up, and top of front and back flap finished with a three-inch hem and two rows of Brier Stitch of shade 2604 NOVELTIES FOR EMBROIDER V, 125 for the draw strings. For price, see this same White cord. For price, see Red pages. Red pages. Tinted Silk Opera Bag. One design is furnished as illustrated. It is a very dressy Cream White silk bag on which the design is tinted in light Pink and Green. It is of a suitable size for a pair of opera glasses. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J 19 B. Qjnventional Wild Rose on Cream Silk. (See illustration.) Parts fur- nished consist of one piece tinted Cream silk, 9 x2o^ inches, and one soisette lin- ing, 9 X 2oX inches, for finishing the bag as illustrated. The completed bag meas- ures 6x6>i inches. Brainerd & Arm- strong's Wash Silks are required as fol- lows : "Caspian" Floss, i skein each 2472, 2013, 2743 ; Filo Selle, i skein 2471. Petals of flowers are outlined with 2472 ; center with 2013; Green leaves and stems with 2743. After the embroidery Silk Powder Puff Bag. One design is finished as illustrated. This little party bag is for holding a small amount of toilet powder and a pow- der puff. The material is Cream White silk and the design is suitable for em- broidering to match any costume. For price, see Red pages. L. N. J2J C. Greek Border on Cream Silk. (Seeillustration.) Partsfurnishedwith each consist of one piece stamped Cream silk, 6^xi7>^ inches, one chamois lining, 4x11 inches, a circular piece each of cardboard and chamois and a powder puff. Finished bag measures 3^x4 n 1^ QH l^^9 mr^ i^^ l^iHI 10 J K AWwi^BI iiPik ^^ |wn!nH| Ti^B-i IjiiH ^M SH| ' -- Silk Opera Bag L. N. 119 B is completed, sew the front and back to- gether around the sides and bottom, in the shape of a bag. One inch from the top of front and back, a hem is made and finished on the outside with two rows of outlining in Pink Filo 2471, placing these two rows about one-half inch apart. Through these hems draw White silk cord for the draw strings. The bag is finished around the sides and top with Silk Powder Puff Bag L. N. 121 C. inches. Two skeins of Brainerd & Arm- strong's " Caspian " Floss 2000 will be required. The stamped lines are out- lined with the Black silk. Having fin- ished the embroidery, cover the circular cardboard with some of the plain silk for the bottom. Now sew one edge of the embroidered piece to the bottom and sew up the ends where they meet, thus form- ing a bag, which is turned under to the depth of one inch to form a hem. This is finished with two lines of Brier Stitch of the Black " Caspian " Floss for the draw strings, which may be either White cord or ribbon. For price, see Red pages. 26 THE BRATNERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. Tinted Bridge Whist Pad. One design is furnished as illustrated. It is a very nice idea to have the bridge whist score pad in this attractive cover. A printed score pad is furnished with the other parts. For price, see Rtd pages. L. N. 165. C:;:d Design on Colored Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished con- sist of the tinted Colored Linen and suf- ficient plain Colored Linen to finish the cover as illustrated, one piece cardboard 3X'x8;4 inches and one bridge whist score pad. The finished pad measures 3;-< X9 inches. Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery Silk is required as follows: I skein each 2000,2064, 263.;. The tinted spots are outlined with the Bkidge Vi hist Iad i-, i\. colors of silk according to the tinting. The scroll line connecting the spots is outlined with 2634. The lettering is outlined with Red 2064. The linen is folded and sewed up into a removable cover of a suitable size for the score pad. The cardboard is inserted into the front cover for stiffening, and the back cardboard of pad is inserted into the back cover. The edges of inside pock- ets are finished with a row of Brier Stitch of 2064. For price, see Red pages. Tinted Laundry List. One design is furnished as illustrated. Attached to the front of the pad, that is embroidered as illustrated, is a printed pad, half of each sheet of which consists of a gentleman's list and the other half of a lady's list. The idea is to have a memorandum from which to check the articles and so feel sure that all are re- turned from the wash. For prices, see Red pages. L. N. 123. Chinamen on White Linen. (See illustration.) Parts furnished with each consist of one tinted White Linen 5X10K inches, one cardboard 3 x SX inches and one pad of printed laundry lists. Brainerd & Armstrong's Filo Selie is required as follows : i skein each 2000, 2019, 2062a, 2603, 2604. Com- mence by working a Chinaman. His cap is worked solid in Satin Stitch; upper part with Red, and lower part with Black ; the small knob at very top is worked solid with Black. His queue is worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Black ; face and hands are outlined with Black ; clothes with 2604. Legs are made solid with Black, in Satin Slitch taken crosswise; shoes are made solid in the same stitch, the upper part with 2019 and the lower part with Black. Clothes line is out- lined with 2019. The articles on line that are un tinted are out- lined with 2603 ; the Laundky List L. N. 123. tinted articles are outlined with 2062a, 2604 and 2000 respec- tively as tinted. The letters in words " Laundry List" are outlined with Red. Chinese lanterns at top are outlined in the colors as tinted. The embroidered linen is mounted on the rectangular piece of cardboard, by turning over its edges and glueing them attheback. The laun- dry pad is then glued, back to back, to this covered cardboard. Holes are pierced at the top, and the piece is finished with a small bow of Red ribbon. For price, see Red pages. Tinted Pipe Rack. One design is furnished as illustrated. The tinting is very nicely done on Linen Crash. The finished rack measures 1 1 x 21 inches and has six rings for holding the pipes. It makes a very useful and ornamental article for the smoking room or den. Parts furnished consist of one NOVELTIES FOR EMBROIDERY. 127 piece tinted Linen Crash,i3>< X29 inclies, two cardboard mounts, 11x21 inches, six large brass rings witli six clamps to fasten them to the mounts and three small brass rings for hangers. For price, see Red pages. Pipe Rack Design 7997. (See illustration.) For the embroidery, use Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Embroidery Silks as follows: "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 3 skeins 2000; i skein each 2002, 2635, 2713, 2166. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, i skein 2000. Man's hat is worked solid in Ken- sington Stitch, with Black "Roman" Floss, the stitches runningvertical ; lower edge is outlined with the same. Man's features and hands are finely outlined ■with Black Filo. The white of eye may be made with a French Knot of the White. Hair and cuffs are outlined with White. Blue and Black are filled with Darning Stitch of shade 2713. Large pipe and lettering are outlined with Black "Roman" Floss. Having finished the embroidery, mount the embroidered piece on the thicker cardboard by turning over the edges of the crash and sewing and glueing them to the back. Now fasten the six large rings in the positions shown by the illus- tration. This is done by piercing the mounted piece and fastening the rings with the clamps. Next glue to the back the other piece of cardboard. At the proper distance at the top, sew the three small rings for hangers. For price, see Red pages. Tinted Photo Frames. All three designs are illustrated. The ^d^^rfe^ft^j^ er«|Lv^ Pipe Rack Design 7997. Buttons and shoe buckles are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Yellow 2635. All the other lines of man's figure are outlined with Black " Roman " Floss. Small clay pipe at man's mouth is worked solid in Satin Stitch, withWhite " Roman " Floss, and outlined with Black Filo. Dog is outlined with Black Filo. Dog's collar is worked on the edges in Long and Short Stitch, with Brown 2166, and French Knots are made with Yellow 2635. Steins are outlined with Blue 2713; spaces tinted opening is for a cabinet size photograph and measures 3 >^ x 5 X inches. Finished frame measures 10x12 inches. Each design is on Tan Colored Linen. Parts consist of one piece stamped Tan Linen, 12x14 inches, and two cardboard mounts. The linen for the front is to be embroid- ered, mounted on the cardboard with the oval opening and secured in place by turning the edges of the linen over the edges of the cardboard and basting with long stitches of Sewing Silk at the back. THE BRAINERD &- ARMSTRONG CO. The second cardboard is then glued, back to back, to the covered cardboard, leaving sufficient space unglued to be able to slip the photograph from the top into position in the frame. A hole is pierced in each of the two upper corners, through which is drawn a loop of silk ribbon, one inch wide, finished with bows of the same as shown in the illustrations. For prices, see Red pages. Design J 2 A. Rose Buds on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Brainerd & Armstrong's " Roman " Floss is used as follows i skein each 2671, 2673, 2831, 2832, 2832a, 2S33, 271 1. In buds, edges of Pink petals are worked in Long and Short !; titch, with 2671 and 2673, using one shade to a bud. Edges of sepals are worked in the same stitch, with Greens 2831, 2832 and 2832a. Base of bud is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with one of the darker shades of Green. Edges of leaves are worked in Long and Short Stitch, with the shades of Green, lighter at the tip and darker Rose Edd Photo Frame Design 12 A. towards the base. Small leaves at tip of branch are worked solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with Green 2831. Stems are out- lined with the shades of Green, lighter at tip of spray and darker towards base. In ribbon effect, the knot is worked solid in Satin Stitch, with 271 1, and edges of strings outlined with the same. Pink ribbon is used for the loop. For price, see Red pages. Design J2B. Wallachian on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Brainerd & Armstrong's " Roman " Floss is used as follows : i skein each 2444, 2445, 2446, 21 18, 2181, 2182. A reference to pages 52 to 54 will explain exactly how the stitch work is done. In the large conventional flower, all the circles are worked with shade 2 1 1 8. The two longest petals, one directly opposite the other, are made with 2444; the four petals adjacent to these, with 2446; and the two remaining petals, with 2445. Short stems to round circles are outlined with 21 18. In the leaf sprays, circles are W^ALi.ACHiAN Photo Frame Design 12 B. made with 21 18 and 2445 ; on one side of the stem with 211 8 and on the other side with 2445. I,eaves are worked in solid Wallachian, with 21 81 and 2182, using one shade to a leaf; the topmost leaf in a spray is made with the lighter shade and the two remaining leaves, with the darker. Stems and scrolls are outlined with the shades of Green; the lighter shade for the tips and curling ends. Brown ribbon is used for the loop. For price, see Red pages. Design 4 D. Lazy Daisy on Tan Linen. (See illustration.) Brainerd & Armstrong's NOVELTIES FOR EMBROIDERY. 129 " Roman " Floss is used as follows : i skein each 2671, 2672, 2673, 2674, 2000, 2015, 2743, 271 1. The floral design is worked just the same as that on Lazy Daisy Centerpiece 1 1 30 B, for which *' Lazv Baisy " Photo Frame Design 4 D. instructions may be found on page 43. Ribbon effect is outlined with Blue 271 1. Pink ribbon is used for loop. For price, see Red pages. Linen Work Bags. One of these is shown in the illustration These are to be embroidered, lined with White, and finished with ribbon draw- strings. Parts furnished consist of one piece stamped Colored Linen 9 x 36 inches, one piece White Linen for lining and one cardboard for bottom. The bag measures about eight inches high when finished. The bags are offered in two designs as follows : L. N. 2225 A. Red Poppy on Ecru Linen. (See illustration.) The skeins of Brainerd & Armstrong's " Romai^" Floss required for the work are as follows : i skein each 2060a, 2060b, 2061, 2061a, 2062a, 2063, 2065, 2000, 2621, 2622, 2623, 2625. In- structions for working poppies may be found on page 33. This is finished with draw-strings of Red ribbon. For price, see Red pages. L. N. 2225 B. White Daisies on Blue Linen. Brainerd & Armstrong's "Roman " Floss is used as follows: 6 skeins 2002; 2 skeiiiS 2000; I skein each 2621, 2017. Instruct- ions for daisies are given on page 18. Centers are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with Yellow 201 7, and outlined with Black. Ribbon effect is worked solid in Kensing- ton Stitch, with White, thaded near the. turned parts with Green 2621 ; the edges WoKK Bag L. N. 2225 A. of ribbon are then outlined with Black. Draw-strings are White ribbon. For price, see Red pages. Child's Collar and Cuff Set. 2710 A. Collar and Cuff Set for Child's Coat. (See Illustration on page 130.) Choice of two materials. Furnished stamped either on White Mercerized Rep or White Royal Silk Satin, 23 x 30 inches. Mercerized Rep is suitable for Summer wear and Royal Silk Satin is heavier for Winter wear. This set furnishes decorative collar and cuffs for use on a coat that need not be made of the same material. We are not able to furnish plain material like the stamped set. Embroidery may be done either in light Blue or light Pink or entirely in White Twisted Embroidery Silk. To embroider the design entirely in light Blue, Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery Silk will be required 13° THE BRAINERD dv ARMSTROXG CO. as follows: i8 skeins 2031; 9 skeins 2032; I skein 2014. Flowers and leaves are worked solid in Satin Stitch, with shades 2031 and 2032; the lighter shade at the tip of a spray and the darker towards the base. A French Knot of Yellow 2014 is placed in the center of each flower. Stems are outlined with the darker shade of Blue. Scallops are worked solid in Buttonhole Stitch, with shade 2031. Round jewels, inside scallops, are worked solid in Satin Stitch with 2031, and the French Knots near the border are made Collar and Cuff !Set 2710 A. with the same shade. If it is desired to work the design in Pink, substitute shades 2471 and 2472 in place of shades 2031 and 2032. The Baby's Cap — shown below — matches this set. For prices, see Red pages. Baby's Cap. 2759 A, Baby's Cap. (See illustration.) This design matches Collar and Cuff Set 2710 A described above. Choice of two materials. Furnished stamped either on White Mercerized Rep or White Royal Silk Satin, 6 x 24 inches. Mercerized Rep is suitable for Summer wear and Royal Silk Satin is heavier for Winter wear. To embroider the design entirely in light Blue, Brainerd & Armstrong's Twisted Embroidery Silk is recommended as fol- lows: 7 skeins 2031; 4 skeins 2032; i skein 2014. Same instructions for the Baby's Cap 2759 A. - embroidery are to be followed as given under Collar and Cuff Set 2710 A. (See above.) If it is desired to work the design in Pink, substitute Pink shades 247I and 2472 in place of the Blue shades 2031 and 2032. Anyone with the stamped piece before her will readily understand how the parts are cut and sewed together. For prices, see Red pages-. Dutch Match Scratcher. L. N. 2239 B. Dutch Man on Ecru Linen. (See illustration on page 131.) Finished scratcher measures S/4 xio inches. Parts furnished with each consist of one piece of stamped linen, two card- boards, one piece of sandpaper and one brass ring. Brainerd & Armstrong's "Roman" Floss is used as follows: i skein each 2000, 2750, 2751, 2752,2753, 2063, 2064, 2013, 2017, 2360, 2361, 2363, 2440, 2442. The entire figure of the man is worked soli; in Kensington Stitch, except the lines of face which are out- lined. Eye consists of a French Knot of Elack. Cap is worked with Blue'; top with 2750 ; band with 2752 ; vizor with 2753. Hair is worked with Yellow 2013 and 2017, lighter shade at the ends. Collar and ends of tie are worked with NOVELTIES FOR EMBROIDERY. 131 Red 2064. Jacket and sleeve are worked with Blue 2750 to 2753 inclusive. Trou- sers are worked with shades 2360 to 2363 inclusive; more remote leg is worked with the dark- est shade; patches are worked with shade 2063 ^i^d outlined with Black. Stock- ingsareworked with Black, striped with Yellow 2017. Shoes are worked with Brown 2440 and 2442, the right shoe being worked with the darker shade. All the several parts mentioned above are outlined with Black. Pipe and lines of smoke and ground are worked with Black. Embroid- ered linen is mounted on the cardboards and suspended by a brass ring at the back. Sand paper for scratching matches is pasted in position on the linen as shown by the illustration. For price, see Red pages. Burnt Leather Skein Booklets. Burnt Leather Skein Booklets. Des'gns A-B. (See illustrations.) This booklet measures 3 j4 X9K inches and is a device forkeeping skeins of Embroidery Silk in g:ord order Match Scratcher L. N. Leather Skeis Booklet Design A. Leather ?kein Eookiet Deugn B. and in good shape for use. The booklet consists of ten folded paper pages for holding the skeins. Each page will hold several skeins. The covers are leather, burnt with an artistic design. Choice of two designs is offered as follows: A, Poinsettiaon Red Leather; B, Dogwood on Brown Leather. The booklets are furnished finished and complete, just as illustrated. For price, see Red pages. Warning. We wish every lady who receives this book could see all the letters we receive from ladies, who tell us about their ex- perience with other embroidery silks than Brainerd & Armstrong's. Some have been persuaded, by the saleswoman at the embroidery silk counter, to try other silks, which, while not so well kijown as Brainerd & Arm- strong's, the clerk says she believes, "are all right to stand washing without injury," etc., etc. Sometimes also a lady, to save herself the trouble of going to another store, is persuaded to use the other silk, and many of these ladies write us about the trouble which results. After spending many days in embroidering a nice piece of work, they find to their sorrow, when they come to wash it, that the colors run into the linen and ruin the article absolutely. If you, who are reading this book, could see all the letters we have received of this kind, you would never be per- suaded to use another skein of any other silk than Brainerd & Armstrong's. An Excellent Book on Drawn Work. Isaac Miller Houck and, being a work by an authority, has met with much appreciation. Its contents are described more in detail in the advertisement which appears on another page of this book. To ladies interested in obtaining a treatise on this subject, we would say that The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. has never published a book dealing with this style of work. Such a book has recently been published by Mrs. HEMSTITCHED CENTERS, DOILIES AND SCARFS. IN this chapter are illustrated fov-r handsome and stylish designs that we furnish on extra fine hem- stitched linen, each design in a va- riety of sizes. A fifth design in Bieder- maier work is illustrated on page 50. It A /ill be understood that the edges of these linens are already finished and hem- stitched in a manner that will give entire satisfaction. The popularity of these stamped hemstitched linens, consists largely in the fact that as soon as the stamped design has been embroidered, jach piece is finished, and no time or work has to be given to the edge. The hemstitched edge such as is furnished on these linens is not only decorative in itself, but is durable and not subject to injury by laundering. We furnish five different styles of stamping only (See pagKS 50, 133 and 134). We cannot accept orders for stamping other designs than the five shown by the illustrations. These five designs have been selected with great care and they present sufficient variety of flower and color scheme for an embroiderer to make a satisfactory selection without seeking for other designs that might not lend themselves to such artistic arrangement or stylish effect. Each design is furnished in all the fol- lowing sizes: 7x7, 9x9, 12 X 12, 24x24, 36x36, 18x27, 18x36 and 18x54 inches. The smaller square pieces are suitable for doilies and centerpieces ; the larger square pieces for luncheon cloths. The three sizes, 18x27, 18x36 and 18 X 54 inches aresuitablefor tray cloths, buffet, bureau and dresser scarfs. The square pieces have the design stamped in each of the four corners and the scarfs have the design stamped across each end. We can furnish any of the sizes plain and without any stamping if they are de- sired. It is no necessary to give in detail the instructions for working the floral de- signs as these can be found elsewhere in this book. We give the skeins of silk re- quired for the 36-inch size and leave it for the embroiderer to estimate the num- ber of skeins to order for the other sizes. For prices, ; ee Red pages. Violet Hemstitched Design 4002 A. The floral design (See page 133) is worked solid in Kensington Stitch ac- cording to the instructions for working violets given on page 20. The scrolls are first raised with White Knitting Cotton and worked over solid in Slanting Satin Stitch, with White Filo. The lattice effect is worked as stamped with White Filo and, at each intersection of the lines, is placed a Cross Stitch with the same silk. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Hemstitched Design 4002 A, 36-inch size. "Asiatic ".Filo Selle, 18 skeins 2002 ; 4 skeins each 2790, 2791, 2792, 2793, 2794 ; 3 skeins each 2622, 2623, 2624 ; 2 skeins each 2620, 2621, 2625; I skein 2636. Made also in 7, 9, 12, 24, 18x27, 18x36, 18 x 54- inch sizes. Daisy Hemstitched Design 4002 B. The floral design (See page 133) is worked solid according to the instructions for daisies on page 18. The only differ- ence is that in this design we recommend 132 HEMSTITCHED CENTERS, DOILIES AND SCARES. 133 Hemstitched Dksign 4002A. Hemstitched Design 400211. 134 THE BRAINEKD &- ARMSTRONG CO. Hemstitched Design 4002C. Hh-MbTlTCHtD DtSlG.S 4^iD HEMSTITCHED CENTERS, DOJLJES AND SCARFS. 135 Chrysanthemum Hemstitched Design 4002 D. In working this design (See page 134) using shades 2633 intttad of shade 2636 for some of the Frerch Krcts in the center of the flowerp. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Hemstitched Design 4C02B, 36-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 12 skeins 2C02 ; 3 skeins each 2623, 2624; 2 skeins each 24S1, 2633, 2638, 2620, 2621, 2622. Made also in 7, 9, 12, 24, 18x27, 18x36, 18 x54-inch sizes. Wild Rose Hemstitched Design 4002 C. The floral design (See page 134) is worked solid according to the instruc- tions for wild roses on page 15. The ribbon effect is worked solid with White ; the knot at the center in Satin Stitch, and the ribbon in Kensington Stitch ; at the turns of the ribbon, a little 2741 is shaded in. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Hemstitched Design 4OC2 C, 36-inch size. " Asiatic" Filo Selle, 8 skeins 2002 ; 3 skeins each 2672, 2673 ; 2 skeins each 2670b, 2670, 2671, 2674, 2675, 2622, 2623, 2624; I skein each 2632, 2635, 2741. Made also in 7, 9, 12, 24, 18x27, iS'^S^, 18x54- inch sizes. the flower petals are worked solid in Kensington Stitch- The more remote petals are worked darkest, and those in the foreground lightest. Petals are shaded lighter at the tip and darker towards the base. Those that overlap are worked in a lighter shade than those that are overlapped. Calyx of buds is worked solid with Green 2622 and 2623, using the darker shade towards the stem. The round center of the full-blown flower is filled solid with French Knots cf shade 2123. Leaves are worked solid in Kensington Stitch, with the shades of Green. They are shaded light at the tip and along the edges and darker towards the midrib and base. Stems are outlined with shades 2623 and 2624. For prices, see Red pages. Materials — Hemstitched Design 4C02D, 36-inch size. "Asiatic" Filo Selle, 3 skeins each 2673, 2674, 2623; 2 skeins each 2670, 2671, 2672, 2675, 2676, 2620, 2621, 2622, 2624; 1 skein 2123. Made also in 7, 9, 12, 24, 18x27, 18x36, i8x54-inch sizes. Our Dress Silks as Good as Our Embroidery Silks. As practically all the ladies, who will feceive this book are familiar with the superiority of our embroidery silks, they will understand the extent of the state- ment that, like our embroidery silks, our Dress Silks are strictly highest quality, always satisfactory and have the unqual- ified endorsement both of our reputation and guarantee. A list of Brainerd & Armstrong's Dress Silks will be found on the inside front cover of this book. These Dress Silks have been supplied for some time to the very best and largest trade in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, Cincinnati, St. Louis, San Francisco, Baltimore and other large cities. We are now ready to have our Dress Silks as universally known as our spool and em- broidery silks- — that they will be 2.^ favor- ably known we are assured, alike by our knowledge of their high qua'ity and by the satisfaction they have alr<^ady given our most critical trade. BRAINERD& Armstrong's Dress Silks ARE OFFERED to ladies and dressmakers who really desire a high-grade and thoroughly serviceable Dress Silk. Every- one who has ever had a Silk Waist, Skirt or Dress Lining made with these Silkshas been gratified with the beauty and dura- bility of the goods and surprised that such value could be furnished for the price charged. The goods must not be classed with the many cheap Dress Silks that are sold 136 THE BRAIXERD e^• ARMSTRONG CO. /^ ^ fi^ fif\ PRISCILLA EMBROIDERIES HOLIDAY SUGGESTIONS PRICE 19 CENTS OR GIVEN FREE with a year's subsciption to . . THE . . . Modern i riscilla tiiin: fi.r Ch ufiits tuday 1 1 you subscribe ioi '1 he Modern Priscilla n^-w orbefure January ist, we will send you I he October aod November issues for 1907 FREE, and mark yiur subscription paid to December, 1908, Wo will also send Fm' und Postpaid wiih cauli now .snb- ecriptioii our new book-Pi ;s- — cilia Enibroidcrios -it odii- 150 ori.^inal, praotionl designs of artiolos siiitahlo tmas and Holiday Gifts, riubaoribe now — isond 50 THE MODERN PRISCILLA Is the authority for all kinds of Art Needlework, Crochet, Kaitting, Lace, Costumes, Lingerie, and Home Decoration. It shows the fastidious woman how to put all those fascinating little touches into her wearing apparel and table decoration, that excite the admiration of her neighbors. It is the only Fashion Magazine of Embroidery IliiistratinL; and ;;iviiig dirifiimis fur wmkiiig out the newest idoas and dosi-ns f..r Ladi>>.s' ..nd Children s Waists, Gowns, Neckwear, IrI;Hs and Underwear; for working all the oew kiiids of Embroidery, enihraeing Freneh Emhroidorj', Eyelet, Medebo, Cut Wi.rk,CroSM Stitidi. Shadow Work, Filot'diii'piire, J>:iee, Bobbin L;ieo, Spachlel Work, Biedermaior, Wallaohian Kijibroidery, ole. Subscription price, 50 ceats per year. SPECIAL CORSET COVER OFFER CORSET COVER : Pcrfornlfd stnmriing pattern, 25 cents 1 stuinpid on li.K-i Imsn, .$100; on cotton lawn, 50 ffnts. Cntlrin fiir wij'liiu;;, :.'0 cunts extra. Four yards A'alencienncs Edging for trinnning, 45 cents extra. We will give fourteen inoaths' subscription to The .MoDERM Pr;lscil,t.A, as stated above, and a perforated stamping p.ittern of this fiandsome new corset cover design, for working front and back, with a box of stamping paste, for 6o cents; or with the design stamped on Hneu lawn for $1.25; the same on cotton lawn for 75 cents. Cotton for working, 20 cents extra Remember, a copy of our new book " Priscilla Em- broideries" sent free with each new subscription to THE MODERN PRISCILLA. Sample Copy of The Priscilla sent for 4 cts. The Modern Priscilla, 85 A Broad St., Boston, Mass. '■ at an attractive price " — silks that with the certainty of the laws of nature will fail to giv.° satisfactory wear and servic . To every person contemplating the pur- chase of Dress Silks, better advice can- not be given than this — buy the best, YOUR GARMENT WILL LAST TWICE AS LONG AND GIVE YOU TWICE THE SATISFACTION EVERY DAY YOU WEAR IT. Your next waist, skirt or dress lining will give you best value, best service and best sat'sfaction if selected from the list on the inside front cover of this book. Buy the silk yourself or have your dress- maker buy it from your storekeeper. You should insist, however, upon seeing the name. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., printed on the roll or the picture of the "girl holding the wreath and palm branch, ' to feel sure that the goods are ours. Insist on having ours. Don't lake something else that is called '-just as good." It will not give you our standard of satisfactory service. Gold Medals. Some of the Gold Medals that have been awarded tj silk threads mean a good deal — as for example, those from the Chicago World's Fair in 1893 and the " Pan American " Exposition in 1901, where there was good, active, honest' competition. Gold Medals were awarded to Brainerd & Armstrong's Silks on these occasions. We did not have an exhibit at the Paris Exposition. False and misleading is a recent ad- vertisement of a certain silk company, claiming the company received a prize at Paris in competition with all the other silk thread manufacturers of this country. Do not be misled or deceived. The truth is that no other silk thread manufacturer from the United States made any exhibit whatever at Paris. So the company refe-red to was awarded a medal in com- petition with itself and no one else, so far as the United States is concerned. Women know I It isn't necessary to tell them how to wash the thou- sand and one pretty trifles that come under the general name of "fancy work." They would not think of using ordinary laundry soap — or washing powders — or chemicals. Oh, no I There is a better way; a safer way — Ivory Soap and lukewarm water. Why Ivory Soap? Because it is pure; because it contains no "free" alkali; no coloring matter; no harm- ful ingredient of any kind. ■■APPKO\Er> hri:Tirnl« for home I.Al'N'DRRINr. ■ is a substantial and intensely practical little lumic of 68 payes. Tlie first chajjler is tlevoteii to an expla- nation of tlie value oftanndry work, from the standpoint of health and comfort. Then follow chaiiters on Stains [with detailed directions for their removal), rahrics. Soap. Laundry Aids, Laimdry Eiiuipinent. Practical Laundry Work and Directions for Special Articles. The hook is free. Write ri'jht away, if you would like a copy. The Procter & t.AMnLE Co., Cincinnati, uliio. Ivory Soap . 99'5^<, Per Cent. Pure. U . — .Jl NEEDLE WORK DESIGNS AND EMBROIDERY IVI AT E RIALS. SEE OUK NEW GATflLOGUB 1907-8 : ADDRESS : JOHN S. PIPER, 183 AV. NINTH STKEET, CINCUSTNATI, OHIO. lATEST DESIGN IN EYEIET on good A 2837 EMBROIDERY CATALOG FREE Our FREE new 96 page Special Cata- logue I\I, showing 1908 designs in Wallachian, Shii- dow, Kyelet Em- broidery, L a c e - making P.raids and I'atterns, Stamped Linens, Pillow Cov- ers, Perforated Pat- tern Outfits, etc. "B. & A." Stamping Preparation Outm. This preparation is specially recom- mended for transferring designs from perforated patterns to linen or other goods. The outfit consists of a brick or square block of the stamping prepara- tion and a pouncet or distributor. All are neatly put up in a paste-board box with printed instructions for using. Stamping dries instantly ; pattern can be used again and again ; enough of the preparation to stamp many patterns. Outfit including stamping brick and pouncet, 25c.; stamping brick alone 15c. — ADDRESS — The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union Street, New London, Conn. Fred Herrschner, 6457A Marsiield Ave., Chicago, III. THE 1907 BOOK. A TREATISE ON Modern Drawn Work. Fourth Issue. BY MRS. ISAAC niLLER HOUCK. iVhen demands came for a new or fourth issue, the desire was to present the Best Efforts ; thoughts began to develop many pleasing creations, such creations and designs that would please former as well as new patrons. This book is a Teacher in itself, and saves the expense of lessons. Particular mention is here made of a Scarf, designed for a library or living- room table. The design is of pleasing pattern, worked in Oriental colors. A pattern of this Scarf will be mailed Free with each of the 1907 Books. This book sent postpaid on receipt of price, 75 cents. Send Money Order, Express Order, or Stamps to MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK, 25 Minerva Street, TIFFIN, OHIO., U. S. A Prices for Stamped Goods. Illustrations in, This Book. As manufacturers, we sell only to storekeepers, and therefore cannot supply ladies direct with our specialties. We are, however, willing and glad to do every thing possible to assist ladies in procuring the goods advertised in this book and, to accomplish this, we have arranged with some of the storekeepers in our city to fill orders which ladies may send us, with remittance, when they cannot obtain our goods from their local dealers. We hope, before sending any orders to us, you will endeavor to get our silks and stamped linens from the storekeeper where you trade, as probably he has our goods in stock. If, however, you are unable to get our goods in your own city, and if your dealer will not order them for you, then you ntay send the proper amount to us, and we will see that your order is promptly filled the day it is received by one of our city stores. You will notice that the prices at which the stores in this city sell our goods are no lower than anywhere else. They can, however, fill orders at once, at the follow- ing prices, for any goods in this book, as they can procure them without delay from »ur large stock at the factory. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG CO., ioo UNION STREET, NEW LONDON, CONN Postage on Herchandise U one cent per ounce, wtalcJi amount please enclose with order. Linens for Centerpieces and Doilies. These goods consist of plain squares of White Linen of good quality, stamped with the different designs. 1122 Designs A=B-C=D-E=F. See Page 17 for illustrations. Designs are: A, Wild Rose; B, Buttercup; C, Bachelor Button ; D, Daisy ; E, Field Poppy ; F, Violet. Made in 7, 9, 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 7-inch 8c. ; 9-inch loc. ; 12-inch 15c. ; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. 1123 Designs A=B=C=D-E=F. See Page 23 for illustrations. Designs are: A, Apple Blossom; B, Carnation; C, Maiden Hair Fern; D, Cal. Pepper Berr^; ; E, Holly; F, Strawberry. Made in 9, 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 9-inch loc. ; 12-inch 15c. ; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. 1124 Designs A-B=C=D=E=F. See Page 31 for illustrations. Designs are : A.American Beauty Rose; B, Bridesmaid Rose; C, Jack Rose ; D, La France Rose: E, Marechal Niel Rose; F, Red Poppy. Made in 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c.; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. 1 125 Designs A- B=C=D. See Page 36 for illustratiovs. Designs are : A, Wild Carrot ; B, Dandelion Blow; C, Chrysanthemum; D, Sweet Pea. Made in 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c. ; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. 1126 Designs A =B. See Page 36 for illustrations. Designs are : A, Rose Bud and Forget- Me-Not ; B, Pansy and Maiden Hair Fern. Made in 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c. ; 18-inch 30c.; 22-inch 40c. each. 1127 Designs of Wild Rose Set. See Page 40 for illustrations. Made in 7, 12 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 7-inch 8c. ; 12-inch 15c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. Price of set, con- sisting of six pieces each of 7 and 12-inch and one piece of 22-inch, $1.25 for set. 1128 Designs A-B. Easy Brier Stitch. See Colored Plate CXXVIII for illustrations. Made in 9, 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 9-inch loc. ; 12-inch 15c.; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. 1129 Designs A-B. Biedermaier. See Colored Plate CXXVIII for illustrations. Made in 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. ' Price for 12-inch 15c ; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. 1130 Designs A-B. Lazy Daisy. See Colored Plate CXXVIII for illustrations. Made in 12, i8 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c. ; 18-inch 30c. ; 22-inch 40c. each. Biedermaier Designs. The following designs are very attractive and fine examples of this popular style of work. 1129 Designs A-B. Centers and Doilies on White Linen. See Colored Plate CXXVIII for illustrations. Made in 12, 18 and 22-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c. ; 18-inch 300.; 22-inch 40c.|[each. 9667 Design. Tinted Centerpiece on Tan Lawn. See Page 47 for illustration. One size only. Price for 27-inch 45c. each. 9666 Design. Tinted Sofa Cushion on Tan Lawn. See Page 47 for illustration. Size 20x40 inches. Price 45c. front and back. 227 A Design. Tinted Sofa Cushion on Tan Linen. See Page 49 for illustration. Size 22 X 44 inches. Price 60c. front and back. 4002 B Design. Hemstitched White Linens. See Page 50 for illustration. Made in 7, 9, 12,24,36, 18x27, 18x36, 18 x54-inclj sizes. Price for 7-inch 15c. ; 9-inch 20c. ; 12-inch 30c.; 24-inch 80c. ; 36-inch $1.30; i8 X 27-inch 65c. ; 18 X 36-inch 85c. ; 18 x 54-inch $1.20 each. Wallachian Designs. These designs are stamped on a good quality of Heavy Linen, which has been carefully selected as specially suited to the style of work. 4160 Designs A-B. Centers and Doilies on Heavy White Linen See Colored Plate CXXV for illustrations. Made in 22, 27 and 36-inch sizes. Price for 22-in(;h 4i;c. ; 27- inch 75c. ; 36-inch $1.20 each. 8186 Designs A-B. Centers and Doilies on Tan Linen. See Colored Plate CXXIX for illustrations. Made in 22 and 27-inch sizes. Price for 22-inch 55c. ; 27-inch size 80c. each. 229 Designs A=B. Sofa Cushions on Tan Linen. See Page ?7 for illustrations. Size 22x44 inches. Price 60c. for front and back. 230 Designs A-B-C. Tinted Sofa Cushions on Tan Linen. See Colored Plate CXXXI for illustrations. Designs are: A, Bridesmaid Rose; B, Yellow Chrysanthemum; C, Red Poppy. Size 22 X44 inches. Price 6cc. for front and back. Washable Rings. Use of these is explained on Pages 52-53- Furnished in three sizes : Smallest No. 1532,9-16-inch diameter; Medium, No. 1534, 11-16-inch diameter ; Large, No. 6, 13-16-inch diameter. Price 8c. per dozen. Eyelet Table Spreads, Centers, Doilies and Sofa Cushions. These designs are stamped on a good grade of White Linen, specially selected because of its adaptability to this style of work. 41481- Design. Centers and Doilies. See Page 62 for illustration. Made in 12,22,27 and 36-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c. ; 22-inch45c.; 27-inch 70c. ; 36-inch $1.20 eacfc. 4149 Designs A-B. Centers and Doilies. See Page 63 for illustrations. Designs are: A, Grape; B, Daisy. Made in 12, 22, 27 and 36-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 15c. ; 22-inch 40c.; 27-inch 70C. ; 36-inch $1.10 each. 228 Design. Sofa Cushion on White Linen. See Page 62 for illustration. Size 22x44 inches. Price 8oc. each. 4150 Design of Table Set. See Page66 for illustration. Made in 9, 12, 22, 9X 16, 18x24- inch sizes. Price for 9-inch loc. ; 12-inch 15c.; 22-inch 45c. ; 9X 16-inch 15c.; 18x24- inch 45c. each. Mountmellick Table Spreads, Centers and Doilies. The following designs are stamped on good quality White Damask, specially selected because of its adaptability for this style of work. 8113 to 8115 Designs. See Pages 69 and 71 for illustrations. Designs are : 8ii3Wheat; 8ii4Grape,; Si 15 Conventional. Made in 12,22, 27 and 36-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 25c.; 22-inch 8oc. ; 27-inch $1.15 ; 36-inch $1.60 each. Shado-w Embroidery Designs. These designs are either stamped or tinted on Linen Lawn, specially selected for the WDrk. Description of the goods, parts furnished and illustrations may be found on Pages 73 to 80. 9637 Design. Stamped White Bureau Scarf, 18x45 inches. Price 6oc. each. 9640 Design. Stamped White Sofa Cushion. Price 6oc. for front and back. 9641 Design. Stamped White Centerpiece, 27-inch size. Price 6oc. each. 9643 Design. Stamped White Laundry List. Price 40c. each. 9646 Design. Stamped White Handkerchief Case. Price 40c. each. 9647 Design. Stamped White Glove Case. Price 30c. each. 9648 Design. Stamped White Pin Cushion. - Price 25c. each. 9651 Design. Stamped White Work Bag. Price 30c. each. 9653 Design. Stamped White Laundry Bag. Price 45c. each. 9663 Design. Tinted Tan Sofa Cushion. Price 60c. for front and back. 9669 Design. Tinted Tan Centerpiece, 27-inch size. Price 60c. each. 9671 Design. Tinted Tan Bureau Scarf, 18x45 inches. Price 60c. each. 9673 Design. Tinted Tan Pin Cushion. Price 2Sc. each. Tinted Table Spreads, Centers and Doilies on Tan Linen. These goods are beautifully tinted on a good quality of Tan Linen. 8174 to 8185 Designs. See Colored Plate CXXX and Pages 81, 85, 87, 89 and 91 for ill- ustrations. Designs are : 8174, Yellow Chrysanthemum ; 8175, Barberry ; 8176, Acorn and Oak Leaf; 8177, Chestnut Burr; S178, Oranges; 8179, Conventional; 8180, Double Rose; 81S1, Wild Rose; 81S2, Virginia Creeper; 8183, Cherry; 8184, Red Poppy ; 8185, Holly. Made in 12, 27 and 36-inch sizes. Price for 12-inch 25c. ; 27-inch 80c. ; 36-inch $1.25 each. Hemstitched Centers, Doilies and Scarfs. Prices are given below for these goods stamped as illustrated ; also prices are given for the same goods unstamped. The goods themselves are excellent quality and sure to give satisfaction. 4002 Designs A=B-C-D=E. See Pages 50, I33 and 134 for illustrations. Designs are : A, Violet; B, Daisy; C, Wild Rose; D, Chrj'santhemum ; E, Biedermaier. Price for 7-inch 15c.; 9-inih 20c.; 12-inch 30c.; 24-inch 8oc. ; 36-inch $1.30; iSx27-inch 65c.; 18 X 36-inch 85c. ; iSx 54-inch $1.20 each. 4002 Linens, Unstamped. The Hemstitched Linen is the same as the above, but un- stamped. Price for 7-inch 14c.; 9-inch i8c- ; 12-inch 2f'c. ; 24-inch 78c.; 36-inch $1.28; 18 X 27-inch 64c. ; 18 X 36-inch S2C. ; 18 x54-inch $1.18 each. "B. & A." Stamping Preparation Outfit. See Pages 67 and 138 for description. Outfit including stamping brick and pouncet 25c. ; stamping brick without pouncet 15c. each. Ruffles. We do not send out samples of these goods. They are to be used for finishing the edges of sofa cushions. If upon receipt they do not prove satisfactory, goods may be returned in perfect condition and your money will be refunded. 303 Mercerizi^d Ruffles. Similarto the striped ruffles on Colored Plate CXXXII. Measure 4 inches wide and 4)^ yards long. Furnished in Red, Green, Blue, Pink, Yellow, Violet and Brown. Price $1.00 each. 7936 Net and Ribbon Ruffle. See Rufile on Design 9666 on Page 47. Measures 5 inches wide and 4>^ yards long. Furnished in Red, Pink and Yellow. Price $1.90 each. 790 Corded Satin Ruffle. See ruffle on Design 230 Bon Colored Plate CXXXL Measures 4X inches wide and 5 yards long. Furnished in Yellow, Pink, Red and Green. Price $3.00 each. Fancy Laces for Edges. We do not send out samples of these goods. They are suitable for the purposes for which they are recommended in this book. If upon receipt they do not prove satisfactory, goods may be returned in perfect condition and your money will be refunded. 7930 Fancy Lace. See Design 9667 on Page 47 on which this lace is used double width. Measures lyi inches wide. Furnished in either White or Ecru. Price 20c. per yard. 505 Fancy Red Lace; See Design 8186 B on Colored Plate CXXIX. Measures 4 inches wide. Price 3sc. per yard. 557 Fancy Green Lace. See Design 8186 A on Colored Plate CXXIX. Measures 4 inches wide. Price 55c. per yard. Length required for round pieces of different sizes : 7-inch M yd. ; 9-inch f yd. ; 12-inch ijyds. ; iS-inch i^yds. ; 22-inch 2X J-ds. ; 27-inch 2|< yds. ; 36-inch 5>^ yds. Novelties for Embroidery. These articles are fully described in the body of this book. A reference to the pages mentioned below after each article will fully explain exactly on what material the articles are stamped or tinted and what parts are furnished with each. L. N. II7B. Tinted Shopping Bag. See Page 119 for illustration and description. Price 70c. each. L. N. 119 8. Tinted Silk Opera Bag. See Page 125 for illustration and description. Price 75c. each. L. N. 121 C. Silk Powder Bag. See Page 125 for illustration and description. Price 70c. each. L. N. 123. Tinted Laundry List. See Page 126 for illustration and description. Price 30c. each. I-. N. 125 C. Calendar. See Page 116 for illustration and description. Price 2bc. each. L. N. 127 D. Tinted Cravat Holder. See Page 120 for illustration and description. Price 85c. each. L. N. 131 B. Tinted Work Apron. See Page 117 for illustration and description. Price 75c. each. L.N. 135. Tinted Bird Calendar. See Page 116 for illustration and description. Price 25c. each. L. N. 137. Tinted Rooster Hatch Scratcher. See Page 115 for illustration and descrip- tion. Price 20c. each. L. N. 139. Tinted Laundry Bag. See Page 124 for illustration and description. Price' 50c. each. L. N. 143. Tinted Shirt Case. See Page 124 for illustration and description. Price 60c. each. L. N. 145 B. Tinted Paper and String Bag. See Page 123 for illustration and descrip- tion. Price 70c. each. L.N. 155 B. Corset Bag. See Page 123 for illustration and description. Price 30c. each. L. N. 157. Designs A=B. Tinted Fancy Aprons. See Page 118 for illustrations and descriptions. Designs are : A, Wild Rose ; B, Light Blue Jewel. Price 50c. each. L. N. 161 A. Tinted Ballet Match Scratcher. See Page 116 for illustration and descrip- tion. Price 35c. each. L. N. 165. Tinted Bridge Whist Pad. See Page 126 for illustration and description. Price 35c. each. L. N. 167. Tinted Chinese Calendar. See Page 117 for illustration and description. Price 20c. each. L. N. 169 A. Baby's Tinted Clothes Rack. See Page 121 for illustration and descrip- tion. Price 70c. each. L. N. 171 B. Tinted Cravat Holder. See Page 119 for illustration and description. Price 60C. each. L. N. 173. Baby's Tinted Stand Cover. See Page 122 for illustration and description. Price 50c. each. . L. N. 179. Designs B and C. Towel Racks. See Page 121 for illustrations and descriptions. Price $1.25 each. 799/ Tinted Pipe Rack. See Page 127 for illustration and description. Price $1.15 each. 12 Designs A-B. Tinted Photo Frames. See Page 128 for illustrations and descriptions. Designs are : A, Rosebud; B, Wallachian. Price 45c. each. 4 D. Photo Frame. See Page 129 for illustration and description. Price 40c. each. L. N. 2225 Designs A=B. Work Bags. See Page 129 for illustration and description. Price 60c. each. L. N. 2239 B. Dutch Match Scratcher. See Page 131 for illustration and description. Price 35c. each. 2710 A. Child's Collar and Cuff Set. See Page 130 for illustration and description. Price 70c. each on White Mercerized Rep ; 80c. each on White Roj'al Silk Satin. 2759 A. Baby's Cap. See Page 130 for illustration and description. Price 20c. on White Mercerized Rep ; 25c. on White Roval Silk Satin. Burnt Leather Skein Booklets. Designs A-B. See Page 131 for illustrations and descriptions. Designs are : A, Poinsettia on Red ; B, Dogwood on Brown. Price 6oc. each. Plain Piece Linen. We have three grades of Linen : No. 90 is the lightest weight ; No. 91 is heavier ; No. 92 is as heavy as 91 and a very fine quality. No. 90 grade, per yard, 36-in 75c. 40-in 85c. 45-in 95c. ',' 91 " " " " 7SC- " •■••85c. " ....95c. " 92 " " " " -gcc. " ....$i.co " ... 1. 10 Sofa Cushions. The following table will give prices for our designs of 5ofa Cushions. Page of Illustra- tion, Designs. Color and Material of Front Square. Size Including Back. Inches. Price each, including Front and Back. Page 49 227A Biedermaier Silhouette Tan Linen 22x44 60C. Page 62 228 Eyelet White Linen 22x44 80C. Page 57 229A Wallachian Tan Linen 22x44 60C. Page 57 229B Wallachian Tan Linen 22x44 60C. Plate CXXXI 230A Wallachian Rose Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Plate CXXXI 230B Wallachian Chrys'm'm Tan Linen 22 X44 60C. Plate CXXXI 230C Wallachian Poppy Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Plate CXXXI 231 Autumn Leaf Tan Linen 22x44 60C. Plate CXXXI 232 Double Rose Tan Linen 22 X 44 60C. Plate CXXXI 233 Wild Rose and Daisy Tan Linen 22x44 60c ■ Page 105 234 Barberry Tan Linen 22x44 60C. Page III 23s Christmas Tan Linen 22x44 60c Page 114 237 Music Room Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Page loi 238 Bachelor Smoker Tan Belgian Linen 22x44 60c. .Page 105 239 Novelty Poppy Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Page 105 240 Thistle BlackTicking 22x44 60c Page loj 241 Conventional Lily Tan Belgian Linen 22x44 60c. Page 105 242 Conventional Wild Rose Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Page 105 243 McKinley Tan Linen 22x44 Coc. Plate CXXXII 244 Indian Band Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Plate CXXXII 24s Poinsettia Tan Belgian Linen 22x44 60c. Plate CXXXII 246 Peacock Feather Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Plate CXXXII 247 Love-In-The-Mist Tan Linen 22x44 60c Plate CXXXII 248 Tulip Tan Linen 22x44 60c Plate CXXXII 249 Phlox Tan Linen 22 X 44 60c Page III 250 Storks • Black Ticking 22x44 60c. Page III 251 Dragon Red Ticking 22 X 44 60c Page III 252 Brown Dado Tan Linen 22x44 60c Page 1 1 1 253 Kittens-In-Basket Tan Linen 22x44 60c. Page 1 1 1 254 Bears-In-School Tan Linen 22x44 60c Page 97 503 Poppy and Daisy Black Ticking 22x44 60c Page 10 1 527 Hunting Scene Tan Ticking 22x44 60c Page 97 7503 Apple Blossom Black Ticking 22 X 44 60c. Page loi 7565 Poppy Field Ecru Ticking 22x44 60c Page 10 1 7638 "Good Old Sum'r Time" Ecru Art Cloth 22x44 40c Page 97 9614 Primrose Cream Ticking 22 X 44 60c. Page 97 9618 Wild Rose Cream Fancy Weave Art Cloth 22x44 40c. Page loi 9620 Spider and Fly Cream Ticking 22x44 60c. Page 10 1 9624 Bachelor Ecru Butter Cloth 22 X 44 60c. Page 97 9630 Conventional Ecru Butter Cloth 22x44 60c. Page 97 9636 Tulip Drab Fancy Weave Canvas 22x44 60c. Page 76 9640 Shadow Daisy White Linen Lawn 20x40 60c. Page 47 9666 Biedermaier Tan Linen Lawn 20 X40 ,SOC. Page 79 9668 Shadow Eiifect Tan Linen Lawn 20x40 60c. "Asiatic Dye" Wash Silks. REGULAR GOODS O^ PUT UP IN THE NEW PATENT HOLDERS. Wash Silk, "Asiatic" Filo Selle (or Filo) " " Asiatic Roman " Floss " " Asiatic Caspian " Floss '• "Asiatic Art Rope" Sill< " "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidry " " Asiatic " Rope Silk " "Asiatic Honiton " Lace Silk " "Asiatic" Outline Silk " "Asiatic" Hardanger Silk " "Asiatic" Mountmellick Silk (not furnished in Holders) Sample Card of Embroidery Silks Japanese Gold Thread Ecclesiastical Gold Cord Washable Paper Rings (large, small or medium) .08 per dozen Embroidery Hoops, "Martha Washington" (Round) — 4, 5, 6 or 7-inch 8-inch 10 or 1 2-inch " Dolly riadison " (Oval) -3x6-inch .15 per 4/4 X 9 or 6 X 12-inch .25 per Embroidery Needles — 25 needles in a paper Case 757 Assorted Needles. Roman Needle Packet, containing i doz. long eyed needles for Roman, Rope and heavy silks No. 1 Vienna Chenille "B. & A." Arrasene "Victoria" Purse Twist (or E. E. Silk 100 yds.) "B. & A." Purse Twist (150 yds.) "B. & A." Crochet Silk (yi ounce spools) "Victoria" Knitting Silk (J^ ounce spools) "Hamburg" Knitting Silk (>^ ounce spools) "Star" Crochet Silk (90-yard spools) "Soft" Darning Silk (new, 25 yards per spool) Best 100-yard Spool Sewing Silk Best 50-yard " " " $ .05 per skein. $ .50 per dozen .05 per .50 per " .05 per .50 per " •OS per .50 per " .05 per .50 per' " .05 per .50 per " .05 per .50 per " .04 per ■45 per " .05 per .50 per " .05 per ({ .50 per " .20 per copy. .15 per skein. .08 per spool. n) .08 per dozen. .15 per pair. .20 per (( .25 per " .06 per paper. .10 per case. .10 per packet. .25 per dozen skeins. .20_per " " .40 per spool. $4.50 per down .60 per " 6.75 per •35 per " 4.00 per •35 per " 4 00 per .30 per " 3.50 per .25 per " 2.75 per .05 per " .50 1 er .10 per " 1. 00 per .05 per " .50 per Read the Following Carefully Before Ordering. We can furnish the designs stamped in no other way nor in any other sizes than as described above and in the other pages of this book. We cannot accept orders for stamping special designs, nor for stamping the designs in this book in other ways nor on other materials than as described. We cannot furnish perforated patterns or paper patterns of any sort of the designs shown in this book. Remittances should be sent by Postal Money Order or Express Money Order. If the amount involved is less than 50c., new 2-cent postage stamps in good condition will be accepted. Remittances from foreign countries should be made by International Money Order. We hope, before sending any order to us, you will endeavor to get our silks and stamped linens from the storekeeper where you trade, as probably he has our goods in stock. If, however, you are unable to get our goods in your own city, and if your dealer will not order them for yo"> then you may send the proper amount to us, and we will see that your order is promptly filled, by one of our city stores. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. Hundreds of Dollars in Valuable Prizes GIVEN TO EMBROIDERERS Who Save the Empty HOLDERS from Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Embroidery Silks. ) FOR EMPTY I. $300.00 IN CASH PRIZES. > HOLDERS 2. Designs of Centerpieces, Doilies, Sofa ^ FOR EMPTY Cushions, Etc., illustrated in this > HOLDERS Book. ) 3. Waste Embroidery Silk and Plain] POR EMPTY Embroidery Silk. j HOLDERS. ] FOR EMPTY 4. Sample Card and Fancy Work Books. V HOLDERS ^~SEE FOLLOWING Therefore, Save these HOLDERS when PAGES FOR FULL ^^^^ They are Worth Some- INFORMATION .. , ^ thing to You. AND PARTICULARS. rnT.tnii lain mm .■"■ #\ Lfijx ^FLOSS SILKS ^ T YY (trademark.) , \ L L I w $300.00 - GASH PRIZES FOR EMBROIDERERS Who Save the Empty HOLDERS from Brainerd & Armstrong's WASH EMBROIDERY SILKS. We shall give the following Cash Prizes on July ist, 190S, to those who, up to June 1st, 1908, have returned us the iAKGJEST NUMBER OF WASH SILK HOLDERS. HOLDERS from any of our "Asiatic Dye" silks count the same; that is, it makes no difference whether the HOLDER is from our "Asiatic" Etching Silk, "Asiatic " Filo, or any other of our Wash Silks. _ -^ . HOLDERS that are sent for these Cash Prizes can also be used for the Prizes men- tioned on the following pages of this book. But you must specify definitely which of those Prizes you wish, and they must be ordered when you send the HOLDERS, and not long after the HOLDERS have been returned to us. We will also credit you the same HOLDERS to count for these Cash Prizes. All these Cash Prizes will be given to those who return to us the largest number of HOLDERS previous to June ist, 1908, that is, up to and including May 31st, 1908. They may be sent in any time after July 1st, 1907. All must be received previous to June 1st, 1908, and all must be addressed to The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 100 Union Street, New London, Conn. To the person returning us the largest number. First Prize, $2/;, - - - $25.00 To the person returning next largest number. Second Prize, $15, - - - 15.00 To the 5 persons returning us the next largest numbers, $10 each, - 50.00 To the lb " " " " " "$,;".. '^0.00 To the 20 " " " " " " $ 2 " - - 40.00 To the 120 " " " " " " $ I " - - 120.00 157 Prizes In all, amounting to - - - $300.00 In case of a tie for any Cash Prize, the value thereof will be equally divided between the persons tying. HOW TO SAVE AND SEND THE HOLDERS. Cash Prizes and the Prizes offered on following pages are Offered for Empty Holders, not for Tags. , After using the silk from the p'aper HOLDERS, save the empty HOLDERS and mail them to us. We will send you the Prizes mentioned on the two following pages that you may send the proper enclosures for and place HOLDERS to your credit for the Cash Prizes. In order that the package may not be unnecessarily bulky and to save you postage, you may cut off that end of each HOLDER showing a picture of the HOLDER on the face and two spools of Sewing Silk on the reverse side, and we will accept tits part of a HOLDER as equivalent to a whole HOLDER. Be sure and cut off this part so that the picture of the HOLDER will show on the front and the two spools on the back. In other words, we will redeem (1) whole HOLDERS- (2) or to save postage, the particular part described — nothing else. ' If you have friends who embroider, get them to save their old HOLDERS for you, unless they also are going to try for the Prizes. As there are i;7 Cash Prizes, you stand a good chance of winning one of them If you save only a few HOLDERS, it may pay to send them in, for only a few may try, in which case your chance for a Prize will be increased. Anyway, even though you save only a few HOLDERS, they are valuable to exchange for Stamped Designs and other Prizes. THESE LIBERAL OFFERS HOLD QOOD ONLY TO JUNE 1st, 1908. READ THE FOLLOWING PAGES CAREFULLY, AND PRESERVE THFS OFFER. SAVE YOUR EMPTY HOLDERS. THEY ARE WORTH SOMETHING TO YOU. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY, 100 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. Centerpieces, Doilies and Stamped Goods for Mwpty Holders. The empty HOLDERS that you save aie valuable to exchange for our Stamped Designs as ottered below, and for the other Prizes ottered on the following page. These same HOLDERS that are exchanged for any of the Prizes offered on this page and the following page will also be counted to your credit in the contest for the Cash Prizes. ( See preceding page.) In sending for th Prizes on this page you must specify definitely what \ou wish, and send the correct number of HOLDERS and remit- tance. These Prizes inust be ordered when you return the HOLDERS, and not long afterward. Our Offer of Stamped Goods for Empty Holders. In exchange for empty Holders, we will send the Designs shown in this Embroidery Bool< on the following basis : The number of HOLDERS sent for any design must be the same as the number of cents at which the piece is quoted in the Red pages of this Book, and the HOLDERS must be accompanied with a remittance to the amount of half the price of the piece. For example, a Stamped Piece for which the price is quoted at 50c. will be sent in exchange for 50 empty HOLDERS and 25c. remit- tance. In the case of Centerpieces and Doilies, with stamped edges on White Linen, they will therefore be sent as follows : 7-inch size for 8 Holders and 4 cents. 18-inch size for 30 Holders and 15 cents. 9-inch size for 10 Holders and 5 cents. 22-inch size for 40 Holders and 20 cents. 12-inch size for 15 Holders and 8 cents. See Page preceding and following. Save Your Empty Holders. THEY ARE WORTH SOMETHING TO YOU. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY 100 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. SAVM YOUR MMPTY HOLDERS. THMY ARE WORTH __ ^ ^^ SOME- 1 INVALUABLE TO USERS OF ^S (VR'\.\ LF|w4& FLOSS SILKS ^ Ml f TRADE MASK.) / \% Iff^ THING TO YOU. In addition to the Prizes offered on the two preceding Pages we offer on this Page Some Other Prizes. Our Latest Sample Card sent tor 20 Holders and loc. to cover postage and wrapping. Our 1907 Embroidery Book with Colored Plates CXVII to CXXIV, sent for 16 Holders and 8c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our '1906 Embroidery Book with Colored Plates CIX to CXVI, sent for 16 Holders and 8c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our 1904 Embroidery Book with Colored Plates XCni to C, sent for 16 Holders and 6c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our 1902 Embroidery Book with Colored Plates LXIX to LXXXIV, sent for 16 Holders and 6c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our 1901 Embroidery Book with Colored Plates LIII to LXVIII, sent for 16 Holders and 6c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our Illustrated Lessons in Embroidery Stitches giving instructions for making all embroidery stitches, sent for 10 Holders and 4c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our Knitting and Crochet Book with over 140 pages, sent for 12 Holders and 6c. to cover postage and wrapping. Our Popular " Blue Book " sent for 6 Holders and a 2c. stamp to cover postage. Our Catalogue and Waste Embroidery Book sent for 4 Holders and a 2c. stamp. Skein Booklet, a device with stiff cardboard covers for holding skeins of Silk, sent for 10 Holders and 4c. to cover postage and packing. Half Ounce Package of Waste Embroidery Silk, any assortment — Nos. i, 2, 3, 4 or 5, as described in our Waste Book — sent for 20 Holders and loc. to cover postage and packing. One Bunch of 25 Skeins of Plain Embroidery — not wash silk, but the old style com- mon embroidery, assorted colors, sent for 10 Holders and 8c. to cover postage and packing. NOTICE. — The same Holders that are exchanged for any ot the above Prizes will alf.o be oonnted to your credit in the contest tor the Cash Prizes. (See second page preceding.) SAVE YOUR EMPTY HOLDERS. THEJf 1 1 SOME ARE WORTH 1 INVALUABLE TO USERS OF Kg« 1 FILO/98. FLOSS SILKS ^ j (trademark.) ^:^ THING TO YOV THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY, 100 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, COHH. FOR BEST RESULTS AND INTELLIGENT WORK, EVERY EMBROIDERER, KNITTER, OR CROCHETER SHOULD HAVE A COPY OF OI'R NEW SAHPLE CARD. SHOWS SAMPLES of each of the following Threads and ALSO ALL THE COLORS in which they are Dyed: "Asiatic" Filo Selle. " Asiatic Roman " Floss. "Asiatic Caspian" Floss. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery, "Asiatic" Rope Silk. ' Asiatic Art Rope" Silk. " Asiatic Iloniton Lace " Silk. "Asiatic" Outline Silk. " Victoria" Knitting and Crochet Silk. " Hamburg" Knitting and Crochet Silk. Darning Slk. "B. & A." Crochet Silk. PRICE 20 CENTS. Ladies who already have one of our Sample Cards can know that it is the latest card if it shows the shaded colors 2901 to 2908 inclusive, in which we dye "Caspian" Floss. Earlier cards do not show these new colors . THIS NEW CARD WILL ENABLE YOU to see at a glance what shades are made, and to decide upon those best suited to your work. If you liave this card, you can order our silks hy humber from your own storekeeper, or, where you cannot get them in your own city, frcm a more remote dealer who carries a line of our goods. WE MAIL THIS COLOR CARD to any lady for 20 cents in stamps, although it costs us much more than this amount. The reason we are willing to send it at this low price is because we have found from past experience that any lady who once has our card and uses our silks, will always thereafter insist on having Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks and will take no other. We send this card to any address for 20c. or for 20 of our empty Holders and 10c. to cover postage and wrapping. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG COMPANY, ' loo UNION STREET, NEW LONDON, CONN. " Specially and Perfectly Designed for Silk Purses. MANUFACTURED WITH THE RIGHT TWIST AND STRENGTH FOR KNITTING AND CROCHETING THESE ARTICLES. ^^5 »^ (^ Has Lustre and Firmnees. Brainerd & Armstrong's SILK PURSE TWIST. This three cord thread is e&sy and delightful to use, either with or without beads, for Purses, Work Bags, Chatelaine Bags, Opera Bags and similar articles. Black No. 612 with beads makes a most rich appearance. Some of the other most popular colors are : Pure White, Drabs, Pink, Light Blues, Cream White, Slates, Scarlets, Purple, Steel Grays, Yellow, Green, Black. In purchasing," be sure thai -- uier the word "Victoria" or our name " The Brainerd & Armstrong Co." appears on each spool. This silk and our Knitting and Crochet Silk are the silks "par excellence" for making Silk Purses. It is not safe to accept any substitutes. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. FACTORIES AT NEW LONDON, CONN. BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG'S Silk and Satin Joinings ^^*^''^*.'-'^'A', IN THIS GARMENT lie^raiqerd Q WAS MADE BY ffrni5tl!a(p- Which is a Guarantee of Durability. For Merchant Tailors. IN THE HOMES reached by our Embroidery Books, where the superiority of our embroidery and sewing silks are already well known from daily use, we believe that there are those who would like to have their garments lined with a Silk Lining as superior to other linings as our embroidery and sewing silks are to other silk threads. We manufacture such High-Grade Silk and Satin Linings for tailors' use in lining men's coats, ladies' jackets, skirts, furs, etc. It would be a favor to us and a real economy to yourself if you would ask your tailor to use our Silk Linings in your next garment. Is there any more reason why you should allow the tailor to select the lining for your gar- ment, than why you should allow him to select the exterior material. The wear and satisfaction that you will get from a garment depends as much upon the inside lining as upon the exterior. Any coat, jacket or skirt supplied by a tailor or dealer with one of our tags (like the one above) stitched to the silk lining is sure to give you BEST VALUE, BEST SERVICE and BEST SAT- ISFACTION. If your tailor does not use our Silk Linings, we hope you will direct his attention to the following line that we manufacture : 8. All Silk Taffetas, Black, 19, 21, 22, 24, 27 and 36 inches wide. 9. Cotton Back Satins, Black, 21, 27, 30, 36 and 40 inches wide. JO. Cotton Back Satin De Chenee, Black, 27 and 30 inches wide. All Silk Sating, Black, 21, 22 and 30 inches wide. All Silk Satin De Chenes, Black, 30 inches wide. All Silk Satin De Lyon, Black, 30 inches wide. All Silk Satin Duchesse, Black, 21 and 22 inches wide. All Silk Serges, Black, 30 inches wide. All Silk nerveilleux. Black, 30 inches wide. All Silk Satin De Chenes, Brown, 30 inches wide. 11. Cotton Back Serges, Black, 27 inches wide. J 2. Cotton Back Satin De Chenes, Brown, 27 inches wide. 13. Silk Faced Sleeve Linings, (Plain Colors and Fancy Stripes,) 21 inches wide. The above fabrics are made in various grades. 2. 3. 4. 7. Tailors can obtain samples and full information by writing our nearest Salesroom or Sel ing Agent at the addresses given on the title page of this book. IraEnerd & •n-is-tr^ni PAYSOIM'S IrslK. ^OT-H INDELIBLE Old. TO "VEA.I All Family and Personal Linen should be Indelibly marked, and nothing is so Reliable and Satisfactory as Payson's Indelible Ink The name Payson's has been a " Household Word" for over half a century. A single initial even, saves confusion in sorting articles sent to the wash and often prevents loss. THE -'ORIGINAL BRIQQS CRYSTAL HARKING PEN," established over 30 years, will be found convenient for Coarse Marking. Price 25 Cents. PAYSON'S INK SEPARATE, PRICE 25 CENTS. The above sold by druggists and stationers everywhere. If your dealer does not keep them, they will be sent at the above prices, postpaid, by A. L. WILLISTON, Manufacturer, Northampton, Mass. Payson's Ink received the Highest Award Medal and Diploma at the Centennial, Philadelphia, 1876 ; World's Fair, Chicago, 1893 ; Quebec, 1897. Always in RED and YELLOW Wrappers. Brainerd Sn Armstrong's Spool Sewing Silks f:^ Are "THE BEST "and preferred to other Spool 3ilks because they are the LONGEST, STRONGEST and SMOOTHEST. Brainerd & Armstrong Silk is carefully and scientifically made, on tiie latest improved machinery, which insures a smooth, even thread. It sews smoothly always, either by hand or machine. Every spool is carefully measured and will be found both full length and full strength. YOUR ATTENTION is especially directed to the fact that the Shade Number is now printed with a clear steel die on the end of each spool of Brainerd & Armstrong's Sewing Silks. Here Spool of B. & A. lOO- Yards, Some Advantages to Dealer. stock kept in better order— Each color number in its proper place— Re-ordets made by color Dumber without consulting Sample Card- No uncertdinty in matchine vhen color number is given. Some Advantages to Consumer. Definite information on each spoool as to exact colop— Duplliate orders can be made ikom shade numbers on empty spools— Deiinite orders can be telephoned or written without sending samples. B. & A. 100- Yards There is no deception about this supe- rior Sewing Silk. Every yard of thread which is marked on the label can be lin- woiind yard for yard. You can match more goods with our. colors than with any other line of shades. Black supplied -with GOO, GO, O, A, B, C, D, E, finest to coarsest in the order named. Colors are made in size A only, as this is the medium size and the one best adapted to general use. B. & A. SO- Yards. Same as the preceding except that there are only 50 yards on a ,^ spool. Black supplied in sizes GOO, 00, O, A, B, C, D, E, finest to coars- est in the order named, size A always in stock. Colors in Spool of Buttonhole Twist \ Spool of B. & A. 50- Yards. B. & A. 10-Yard Buttonhole Twist. Our Buttonhole Twist is made by the same process as our Sewing Silks and has all the same good qualities. Black made in sizes A, B, C, D, E, F, from finest to coarsest in order named. Colors made in size D only, this being the medium and most generally used size. Put up 25 spools in a box. REMEMBER— Our silks are sold at retail at just the same price as all others. So it costs you no more money to haVe the best. Just in^p upon it. If any dealer tries to sell you some substitute (there are poor silks which 'the storekeepers can buy for less money and so make a larger profit) sitow him you are posted by refusing to take any but Brainerd & Armstrong's. The Brainerd & Armstrong Silk Co., ESTABLISHED 1867. 100 Union Street, New London, Conn. ^peBraiiverd fi^Armstrorvg Company, JNcw liorvdoa. Coi\R.