3 Cornell University Library D 972.M46 1868 On the wini 3 1924 027 883 796 DATE DUE ir^*2Vii^ — ■ GAYLORD PRINTED IN U S A The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924027883796 ON THE WING. Saund-i'i-P, Olley flnrl. r.nLondru ON THE WING. BY M AXIMILI AN, LATE EMPEEOE OF MEXICO. - TEANSLATED BY A. M. LUSHINGTOK SECOND EDITION. LONDON : SAUNDEES, OTLET, AND CO., V, (late 66,) BROOK STREET, W. 1868. D \^ I (Nx' ^ ''^^ PttlHTED BY J. It. TATtOR AWD" C0.» LtTTLE QtJBEN STEKKT, LTNCOT.W't INN FTBLnS. INTEODUOTIO^. These pages, wMch should properly have appeared under the title ' From my Life,' amongst the jour- nals already published of the immortal Emperor Maximiliaii, are given through a peculiar chaia of circumstances, at the conclusion of them, and under a separate title. This volume, when first published, was in- tended only for private circulation, especially as presents to the imperial Austrian Court, and the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian's relations. The following diary of the Archduke-Emperor's first VI INTRODUCTION. journey in Greece (the Prince was then about eighteen years old) was, originally, not considered important enough by the author, in his modesty, to be worthy of publication. Now, however, after the misfortunes of the Emperor Maximilian, we believe we can offer no more grateful gift to the numerous admirers of his character and of his talents, than the pages of his first work, which make known .the warm enthusiasm of the imperial youth for all that is good and beautiful. The journey to Greece took place in the student- days of the young prince. It was a vacation trip, that had been arranged for him as well as for his younger brother, the Archduke Charles Louis, Isy his imperial parents. The fellow-travellers were the Archduke Max, the Archduke Charles, the Prince Jablonowsky (since then dead, in the bloom of his youth), the Count Coudenhove (now colonel in the army), the Baron KoUer, the Ee~ corder Kaltenbeck (known as the editor of learned papers, since. also dead), the Pvofessor Goiger (a INTEODUCTIOJSr. VU talented and highly-esteemed paijiter), and Doctor Fritsch (imperial body-physician of his Majesty the Emperor Francis Joseph, who had lent him to liis brothers). The steamship 'Vulcan,' which carried the Princes, was commanded by the present Vice- Admiral and Commandant of the marine, at that time Captain Julius Vissiak, whilst Dr. Ilek (now naval surgeon, and former medical adviser of the unhappy Empress Charlotte until her departure from Miramar) was ^placed as the ship's doctor upon the corvette. The journey -was to serve no intellectual purpose, but was solely an excursion of pleasure. The Archduke Max, as well as his brother, who was just enter- ing into adolescence, did not yet belong to the " service." The former of these soon entered the navy, and was obliged to keep guard on board ship during the Italian journey in the year 1851. There exists at Miramar a pretty picture by Professor Geiger, which depicts the presentation to the Pasha of Smyrna, and in which the two Vm INTRODUCTION. Archdukes appear in white uniforms. The passion of Prince Max for the sea and the South presents itself forcibly in the foreground of the following pages. This passion neyer left him. The cabin was his favourite retreat. He caused his own chamber in Miramar to be made almost like one. The waves of the sea, which surrounded the castle, completed the delusion. It is a large' square room, scarcely more than nine feet high, and one of the most cheerful and interesting in the castle. Except the empty spot upon the writing-table, which the Archduke-Emperor could not do without, there was scarcely a free place to be found. He was, as this diary proves, a diligent and painstaking collector. The tables, the drawers, and the closets in his room were all covered or filled with curiosities, and the produc- tions of all countries and seas ; meanwhile, the most comfortable furniture was not wanting. After dinner the Archduke was wont to come Ixere with his gentlemen to smoke a cigar, whilst his august INTRODUCTION. IX consort, separated only by a few rooms, remained amidst her ladies; and he went backwards and forwards, enlivening them equally with his brief and merry remarks. It must here be stated, in order to give a slight biographical sketch of the immortal author, that Ferdinand Maximilian was born on the 6th of June, 1832, so that when he died, on the 19th of June, 1867, he had just completed his thirty-fifth year. He was always called in his family by his second name, which he also exclusively bore as Emperor o.f Mexico. He was so weak and ugly a child, so quiet and reserved in manner, that only his mother's eyes could see his awakening spirit in his lively glances. Two traits of his earliest childhood are here related, although these pages can only give but the barest outline of his life. When Max had just learnt to speak he was shown a dwarf, who had retained the childish figure, but whose face X INTRODUCTION. was that of an old man. The little fellow, though only two years old, ran to his nurse in the adjoin- ing room, exclaiming, "There stands an old child !" This was one of the earliest glimpses of his intelligence. His affections were more ex- pressively shown when the time came for the young Archduke to he placed under a tutor j his little heart was filled with sorrow at the separation from his nurse, Praulein von Sturmfeder. The Fraulein loved his handsomer and more Hvely brother Francis, who was two years his senior, far better than himself, the pale, thin, reserved boy. When, however, she was leaving, Max threw his arms round her neck, and cried out, sobbing, " I love you so much, so much^ as much as you love Frank!" As the Archduke grew up he won the love and esteem of all those who surrounded him by the freshness and warmth of his disposition, as well as by his lively wit. He was one of nature's guileless true sons. Ho never wished INTRODUCTIO:jir. XI to be more than he was. Less Prince than man, he yet prized his high station greatly, recognizing, howeyer, the duties it entailed upon him; innumerable passages in his writings prove this. Those who surrounded him did not know how to praise sufficiently his courtesy and his high-miudedness, and there was but one voice regarding his perseverance in learning and circumspection in undertaking his allotted tasks. Soon after his return from Greece, Ferdinand Maxmilian entered the navy. He belonged to it until he left his castle of Miramar for ever. He first proved his efficiency as Commander-in-Chief at" the far-famed siege of Lissa. After a manoeuvre which was performed by the fleet of his Majesty Francis Joseph, the Emperor named his eminent brother Governor- General of Lombardy and Ve- netia. At this period, 1856, took place his betrothal with the much-respected Princess Charlotte of Xll INTBODUCTIOBT. Belgium. In the year 1857 lie settled with his young wife at Milan, where they led a happy life in the rose-adorned gardens of Mon2;a, Events which shook the world called him two years after- wards from this post. What he suffered during this time is only to be expressed in his own words. He had in his library a slate headed with the 'inscription " Me- mento Verona !" It continued : " This memento I read when I feel unhappy, for more wretched than I was then I can never be." What took place later belongs to history. What he must have suffered, far from all who were dear to him, is unspeakable. His wife, the heroic companion of his overwhelming sorrows, during the time of his government he believed Jo be dead. We may hope that his spirit in the hour of death was comforted by a kind of vision, for when they were about to bind his eyes he cried, "No! no! for then I could not see my INTRODUCTION. XIU mother." With his look fixed heavenwards, he awaited the fatal shot. Upon him we may quote his own words :— He lived in order to die, He died in order to live. CONTENTS. PAGE INTRODUCTION V TRIESTE 1 THE FIEST DAT ON GRECIAN LAND 14 A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE . 32 ATHENS 104 A TISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYRNA . * 198 A VISIT TO THE SLAVE-MARKET OF SMYRNA . . . ,213 THE BAZAAR OE SMYRNA , 219 A TURKISH BATH • 231 A MORNING WITH THE PASHA OF SMYRNA 241 A TRIP TO BUENABA 273 ON SEEING CORFU 287 TWO DAYS IN THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO 293 RAGTISA 311 THE FOURTH OF OCTOBER, ON THE OPEN SEA . . . 335 ON THE WING. CHAPTER I. TRIESTE. Trieste, 2iid September, 1856. The most beautiful view of Triest-e is inconteStal)ly seen from the obelisk of Optscbina. The traveller drives for hours through the stony wastes of the Karstes, on which a heavy curse seems to rest ; the rocks form grey figures, which, to the fancy, appear the ruins of houses and villages ; dry bushes stretch out their arms, and no sign of life rejoices the tra- veller's eye. An atmosphere of doubt and mystery Z ON THE WING. is spread over the Karstes, until at length, after a long journey, tlie tired wanderer 'is enlivened by the sight of the obelisk, standing there like a type of hope. Though it is still the yaUey of sorrow, above all is noble, bright, and living; the posti- lion is hurried on with impatience, the last brief ascent to the obelisk is quickly accomplished, and now the picture of the infinite lies stretched be- fore the feet of the enchanted wayfarer, whose de- light is the greater from the contrast it forms to the dead sea of stones beneath them. Beyond shines the living sea, where the shim- mering sails gleam like swans on the water, and the fruitful terrace-formed shores, studded with beautiful villas, surround it in a semicircle. Last of all, the busy town is seen with its roads spread- ing out like a map, and a second floating town, formed by ships, gay with life and motion. The view of Optschina is certainly one of the most beautiful in the world. An excellent road, with a very slight zigzag, leads down the mountain ; TEIESTE. between vineyards and country houses you catch sight of, with ever increasing exhilaration, glimpses of the beautiful sea,— a foretaste of the South. You feel it is Italy ! The town itself is new, and bears the stamp of a commercial city. The buildings are large, massive, and cleanly, but the architecture is poor. The streets are of a tedious uniformity, and so like one another as to be uninteresting. From an historical point of view it offers little re- .markable ; only in the neighbourhood of the cathe- dral, which is built on high ground, are to be found a few Eoman and old Christian antiquities, but they are of not much importance. Naturally, every stranger in Trieste seeks to live on the quay, therefore we went to the Hotel Na- tional, which looks upon the sea, and is one of the best houses of entertainment I know. As we had visited Trieste before, we did not weary ourselves with the so-called curiosities, but were fain to study life during our short stay, and found much to in- terest us. After an excellent luncheon of fresh sea- B 2 4 ON THE WmG. fish, we were conducted to a riclily-stocked Chinese warehouse, from the stores of which the ship 'Wel- lington ' was to be laden. On board this vessel there were many Chinese and Indian sailors ; it was to leave the port the following day and return to London ; we embarked in a boat and went on board to sfee them. After we had made ourselves understood as well as we could, by the English sailors, we climbed a small narrow rope-ladder on to the foredeck, and fancied ourselves amidst a collection of Yieuxlac pictures, so entirely were we transplanted into the Chinese world. We were surrounded by ill-formed men of middle size, with pale yellow skins, high- cheek-bones, round noses, sloping eyes, and black pigtails several feet in length, which grew from the centre of their other- wise shorn heads ; their clothing consisted of a sack-like spencer, and broad trousers of the same colourless material. A few carried a kind of parasol made of reeds ; their necks and feet were TRIESTE. 5 bare ; ttese were the sailors. They looked coarse but good-natured; their faces would have been dull and heavy, if their sharp dark eyes had not glittered forth from them. The people were friendly, although knavish, and did not seem in the least embar*assed. At some distance apart stood several timid-looking, meagre, weakly little men, with dark, oily, shining faces, but more noble features, speaking however of dis- trust, black hair, and gleaming eyes. Except for their turban-covered heads, they were dressed like the Chiaese ; their expression was fanatically gloomy ; their manner retiriug and serious. They were the Indian crew, which, with the addition of three or four Europeans, was complete. An English captain commanded. The uncouthness and disobligingness of the In- dians formed a great contrast to the friendly readi- ness of the Chinese, At first, it appeared as if the captain did not wish to, notice us ; but after a time he added a rejoinder to our remarks occasionally. 6 ON THE WING. We inspected the interesting parts of the ship, and "watched the Indians and Chinese in their varied attitudes. Some sat with legs covered ; others lay- stretched at full length; others agaia were ga- thered round the galley fire in an unsightly mass, lighting their short pipes at the embers. We must acknowledge that the Chinese are true to nature in the representations they give of them- selves ; their every posture and every feature were already known to us from the haiigiags and screens which ornament our European boudoirs. We could almost fancy they carried pagodas on their nod- ding, turning heads as we looked at their atte- nuated limbs, and long, majestic pigtails. By these last appendages, though forbidden by Euro- peans, the worshippers of Confucius set great store; they are so long that during th^ir work they wind them round their neck and body. The ages of these people appeared to be between thirty and forty ; their muscular system was very strong and coarse, and inclining to roimdness. TKIESTE. One amongst them, who had shown himself par- ticularly amiable, and who had smiled often good- naturedly and knowingly upon us, spoke broken En- glish. We asked him if he had nothing to sell of the products of his land, whereupon he brought a bundle of little sticks, which, as he gaye us to understand by signs, were burnt during prayers. When we tried them at home, they burnt a very long time, and smelt very agreeably. Amongst the Indians two figures interested us particularly, — an old man, with q, beautiful white beard, prominent nose, thick lips, and dreamy, sad, half-closed eyes. A white turban was bound round his small head, which contrasted well with his dark complexion. His countenance reminded one of a heavy-laden, sleepy camel. The second was a younger, smaller black man, of supple build ; his shiny, curly hali- was of a black- blue colour ; his features were noble and beautiful ; his complexion was brilliant ; and out of his dark eyes shone a gloomy, melancholy .fire. His expres- 8 ON THE WING. sion repulsed, while at the same time it attracted you, as you see in gipsies, Hungarians, and Jews. At our departure we divided among the Asiatics a few bright silver pieces, which appeared to make a very good impression ; for, as we pushed off from the side of the ship, the friendly Chinese put their heads out of the ports, and nodded most cordially, as I said just now. Some days after this I had the gratification, on a beautiful sunny day, of swimming for the first time in the sea. He who has worked hard to keep himself afloat in standing water, and exerted him- self like a struggling poodle, feels freshened and borne up upon the salt flood, like a iswan on the blue waves. The sun, too, shines so deliciously on the magnificent harbour, that it is a pleasure to move about in these waters. After we had left the bath, feeling strengthened, we fished for some time in the abundant sea, and drew out oysters, which we immediately devoured. "We next gave ourselves up to an occui^ation not so pleasant as the last, but -very wortliy of notice noverthek'ss. TRIESTE. 9 A diver was to descend to the depths of the sea before our very eyes. It was an awful moment, and had I known before how it was managed, I should never have wished to see it. "We ascended to the ship on which the poor diver was, — the only one amongst 80,000 men who had tho courage to follow this trade. He already sat upon a bench, clothed in an indiarubbcr dress, an air-tight helmet of heavy iron on his shoulders, which they screwed on the iron rim of his dress. In this covering for his head were two glass panes for his eyes, behind the opening, into which an indiarubber pipe was fixed, for the purpose of conducting air to him through a pump. The attire itself is fearful ; all is so tight and so screwed, that it gives one a sense of sufi'o- cation. A heavy anchor was now thrown into the deep waters, to which the diver, upon reaching the bottom, was to fasten a rope. It was certainly more prosaic than if he had fetched the " golden 10 ON THE WING.. goblets " out of the flood, but the danger was not less great. Schiller's beautiful youth was obliged to throw away mautle and girdle ; on this poor young man heavy weights were hung to preserve him under the waters, and the glowing eyes of a lovely princess did not inspire him ; he descended on a rope ladder, and disappeared in the floods. Only the ever- widening circles in the water showed where he had sunk. Long, long he gave no sign. It was a painful, terrible time for us ; the thought forced itself upon us that the poor man might be a sacrifice to our curiosity. Had I not been ashamed before those who were accustomed to this spectacle, I should have begged them to call the man back from his dangerous undertaking. When our anxiety had reached its highest point, he at last gave the sign that his work was finished. The machines were now set in motion, and they drew the heavily- laden hero up again, and quickly disengaged him from his oppressive paraphernalia. He was greatly fatigued and exhausted. TRIESTE. 11 " Er athmete lang und athmete tief, IJnd begriisste das himmlisclie Licht ; Und frohlockend es Binen dem Anderen rief Er lebt, er ist da, es behielt ibn nicbt." He confessed that each time it cost him a struggle to trust himself to the floods ; the first time especially the rush of the stream of air into the metal helmet had been terrible to him. Once he was taken ill at the bottom of the sea, but he was able by a sign to make his ■ condition known ; however, he is always exposed io many dangers, — the heat may briug on apoplexy. If the pump is worked too quickly, and too much air is let in, he is stifled ; the same thing occurs if the water finds an entrance into his helmet. The managers confessed to me that none of themselves would run the risk. I readily believed them, and wondered more than ever at the courage of the diver. He is one of the imperial sailors, and is called " Mchola Eendich." He had noble but sickly, sad features, and is of a fine although slender figm-e. 12 ON THE WING. • The appearance of a Fata Morgana upon the sea, — a sight I had long desired to behold, fell to my lot one morning at Trieste, although they are not very frequent in this port. We had stepped out on the balcony after breakfast, from whence we en- joyed the yiew before us. As I looked towards the horizon, I fancied I saw a second expanse of water ; on the other side were floating saiUng-vessels, but turned upside down, and shores unseen before seemed stretched before the eyes,? — it was the magic sight of a double sea, in whose partition most vari- ous objects were represented. The most lovely sunlight fell on the scene, which lasted long enough for us to contemplate it at lei- sure. At length the picture melted like a beau- tiful dream into blue air. We only stayed half a day longer in Trieste, and then, on a glorious morn- ing, clave the waters of the Adriatic on the magni- ficent steamship ' Yulcan,' sailing towai'ds the coasts of beautiful Hellas. My feelings as the harbour vanished from our TRIESTE. 13 sight were those of a conqueror, for at this mo- ment my dearest wish was fulfilled. We had a thousand plans and hopes in our thoughts, so that this parting was one of the most cheerful I ever experienced. 14 CHAPTEE II. THE FIRST DAY ON GRECpm LAND. September 8, 1856. Towards five o'clock in the morniiig I stepped on to the foredeck, and was almost overpowered by the noble view which presented itself to my eyes. In soft rose-coloured outlines extended the Gulf of Patras, as seen in the morning twilight. The mountains of the Peloponnesus and the rocky tops of Eumelia glowed in the reflection of the rising sunbeams; a mysterious semi-darkness en- veloped the shores of the calm blue-green sea. To the south the vaulted sky stretched into infinite distance, the colours were laid on in great massive THE FIRST DAT ON GfRECIAN LAND. 15 tones, from the deep blue of the distant mountains to the most brilliant rose-red of the glimmering rocks. A morning on the Alps is considered as the most beautiful thing in nature ; I have seen it, and it is certainly a grand spectacle ; but the magnifi- cence and glory of the south is unrivalled, and the thin mist in the valleys docs not equal the magic of the sea. To our left we caught sight of Missolunghi, where the grateful Greeks have placed a monument to Lord Byron. He died here, armed to fight for the liberty of the country, whose charms he has sung in iromortal verse. Before us, in the deep shadows, lay Patras ; to its left was the entrance to the Bay of Lepanto, where the shimmer of the new- born day is turned into a silver band. Suddenly, in the direction of Corinth, the sjin bursts forth, and nature rejoices in her new life. Scarcely, however, did we see the golden rays dancing on the waves, than the speed of our steam- ship placed the high mountains of -Patras between 16 ON THE WING. US and it ; then we saw it rise once more, this time remaiaiag faithful to us, and gladdening us with its southern power. Now, again, we saw the town, surrounded with green luxuriant vineyards, crowned with a ruined Venetian fortress ; its long, but not very broad masses of houses stretch along the roads. As we had not landed since leaving Pola, the south burst suddenly upon us ; the barren, rocky, mountain-way making the shore look more smUing. ' Our ship was soon surrounded "by light fishing- boats, filled with curious Greeks in. white fusta- nellas and artistic caps, who watched the new ar- rivals. The little boats, with their three-cornered sails, cleft the green transparent -waters like swans. As we had cast anchor about tjvo hundred yards from the town, several messengers approached with a petition to allow our ships to be visited, which, however, did not take place, firstly, because we had no "pratica," and, secondly, that these visits are inconvenient under the cu-cumstances. After we THE FIRST DAY ON GtRECIAN LAND. 17 had cast anclior, which was the first, part of us which touched Grecian land, we could contemplate the town and its bustle from afar. It was an extraordinarily lovely day, just such an one as we would desire for a first glimpse of an eagerly sought land, and the delight only known to a traveller when he reaches the aim of his wishes, took possession of me. The exterior view of the towu had an Italian character; the houses are built in irregular picturesque crowds, and the friendly vine clusters over all the wall. Patras lies at the bottom of a hill, which slopes up to the high mountains. The lower houses stretch out to the sea. Its aptiquity was not remarkable. "With the exception of one or two -sarcophagi, it contaias few interesting relics. Whilst under the Venetian rule, *.it was important on account of its fortress; but, in the history of mo- - dem Greece, it will never be forgotten, because the cloisters of Megasderion, close to the town, formed the cradle of the rising Hellas. Here the war with c 18 6M THE WING. the unbelievers was proclaimed saered by the arch- bishop, and here the banner with the white cross was raised. Through the number of its inhabitants, and through its commerce, the staple article of which is currants, Patras is one of the most important towns in Greece. Its circumference increases daily. As it was Sunday, we met all the citizens in pretty dresses walking about. We met hundreds of Greeks, in the white fustanellas, moving along the quay at the sound of the bell, calling to Mass. The number of the boats around us increased every minute ; lying in these were the handsome sons of the country, ^ — the soldiers in blue, with silver-embroidered spencers, narrow red girdles, richly folded, ornamented blue spatterdashes and red shoes. The features of the G*reeks are noble ; their heads rest erect on their proud necks, and their fine figures are rendered noticeable by their good carriage. THE FIRST DAY ON GRECIAN LAND. 19 After a messenger had been dispatched from our vessel to the Consul, our beloved Austrian banner was suddenly displayed from a building near the sea; soon, too, a Greek boat brought us the " pratica," and, finally, our own returned with the Consul. He was a thin, slight Italian, whose high grey hat, like himself, might count many years. Locks of grey hair hung down from his head, his sharp pointed nose nearly touched his chin, the past alone could count his teeth, his long poking neck was enveloped by a white cravat resembling a pocket- handkerchief, and his stiff body was hidden by a dark green diplomatic coat, the tails of which announced the importance of his office. From all these symptoms we inferred that he was very friendly to Austria, and that he intended to entertain the Austrians with all manner of fes- tivities. We invited him to breakfast, during which he related that he had been, an officer in the Austrian army, and had served under Haynau and c 2 20 ON THE WING. Eadetzky; later, had taken part in the war with Ibrahim Pasha ; then had travelled to Nuhia, and lastly had come as Consul to Patras, where he already lived eighteen years. Engaged in lively conversation, he might have been taken for an Italian improvisatore. Latterly he" had had an opportunity for exhibiting his diplo- matic talents. A crowd of Italian and Hungarian exiles had collected together at Patras ; they treated .him at first with some contempt, but stormed him afterwards with petitions to his government to aUow them to return home. Two. of our gentlemen accompanied him after breakfast to his barge. How we envied them, who were so soon to tread the famed land, whilst we, on this charming day, were obliged to vait tiU the after- noon ! The gentlemen promised to return and fetch us very soon, also to bring with them some of the delicious grapes and figs " cooked " in the Grecian sun. Professor G. employed the time by drawing THE FIRST DAT ON GRECIAN LAND. 21 from tlie stern of the vessel a view of the gulf panorama. Like all he drew, it was most happy. The others talked over future plans for journeys to come, gloated over the ever-changing spectacle of nature, watched the barks coming and going, and filled in our diaries. A small vessel hovered round us, containing musicians singing beautiful songs. Yet, in spite of all this, the time seemed very long to us before we caught sight of the Consul's boat. "We saw by the two gentlemen's cheerful faces and lively description how pleased they were with their expedition. We were unhappily de- tained some time longer on board by a contractor whom the Consul brought with him, and with whom we signed an agreement relating to our land journey to Corinth and Nauplia. At half-past one we were at last afloat, and all who possessed hands and feet sprang into the boat of the ' Vulcan.' Joyfully we steered between picturesque merchantmen to shore, An exquisite 22 ON THE WING. delight thrilled through me as I set foot for the first time on Grecian soil. It was only a week since I had taken leave, laughing and rejoicing, of my old friends at Stephensthurm, and now I stood, thanks to that wonderful mechanical power, steam, the triumph of modem ages, upon that land which, above all others, appertains to the past. The speed of the passage was like magic. There we stood in the open plain of Patras, surrounded by objects, descriptions of which I can only give by faint shadows. At the entrance of a coffee- house sat a group of wealthy Greeks, with dazzling :fnstanellas and ample dark blue trousers, smoking iheii- long pipes. Others stood ne§,r and played with their bead-chains, which resemble a rosary, which ■the restless hands of the Hellenes never leave alone. Yonder, a son of the mountains, clothed in a white fez, drives a train of horses and asses, whose only business it is to briug down the sweet grapes from the high hills in baskets and sacks. Here a lusty troop of peasants, in Sunday attire, expose THE FIRST DAY ON GRECIAN LAND. 23 the fruit for sale; there a group of screaming children gamhoUcd round a grey-headed priest, ■with a waving beard. Further on, a band of meiTy soldiers trarversed the crowd, marching in measured step. These tableaux were framed by the most varied buildings. Some of these were remarkable from their neat appearance and clean paint. They belong to the rich merchants, who take their siestas during the hot noontide behind the green "jalou- sies." Other buildings, of a more ruinous aspect, were of wood. Beneath the houses run galleries, supported by wooden pillars; within these were erected richly-coloured booths, where, according to the customs of the land, suitable objects were sold; the most interesting were the oM weapons, and pictures of saints on wood, some of which I bought. The streets are tolerably wide, but up and down hill, and oflfering to civilized feet very uncomfort- able stone pavements, upon which trickling streams 24 ON THE WING. form tiny waterfalls. Here and there one lights on a Place, in the midst of which a few trees, with an Oriental well, are generally to be found. Eonnd this the women gather, after the fashion of those mentioned in the Old Testament, bringing their earthen pitchers. Two of these places are called "The King's Brace." By my desire, we went to a garden on a height. We went by rough paths past ruinous huts made of rotten timber, bound together by tethers of vine. When we had reached it, we were overcome by the wondrous view of the gulf. At our feet lay the town; the ships appeared as on a mirror, crowned with the green mountain-chain of Parnassus. We stood upon a terraced plain, under which deep caverns, excavated in the olden time in the mountaia, served as dwelHng-plaGes to the jackals. A group of magnificent fig-trees grew amongst creeping goui'ds ; grapes lay strewn upon the earth, which the sun was drying into those sweet raisins of so great importance in the northern cookery. THE FIRST DAY ON GRECMN LAND. 25 Thus, in various lands grows and flourishes what pleases the palate, but when the sweet morsel is swallowed by us, we do not think of its history, or of its journey to our distant homes. The raisins here are not treated with the same regard as in our kitchens ; they are thrown in heaps, mixed with the dust of the earth, into dirty baskets ; they are packed on the backs of numerous donkeys, who, groaning under their heavy burdens, bring them to the roadstead, where they are stamped closely Luto barrels by men's feet, and shipped off to the West. This charming garden is enclosed by a wall, whose arched gates we entered, and found ourselves standing in a perfect palace of viues, which was intersected by beautiful shady paths. Stone columns support the trailing creepers. Light wooden stakes form the skeleton of a thick roof of vines, through which only here and there peeps the blue sky. Thousands of grapes hang down from the light arches, of a size such as one reads of in fables. .26 OSr THE "WING. The pillars of tte leafy dome stood upon low walls, ^hich. termiiiated on one side in a little summer- house. The ground of the broad shady place in front of this was paved with great slabs of marble, ^nd upon one of the surrounding stone benches rested two gardeners, stretched in picturesque atti- tudes upon soft hides. In order to perfect the idyl, a deep, clear well stood in the middle, in which the green of the ileafy roof and the blue of the heavens were re- flected. At its edge were perched two white doves, drinking the water. On the ground lay a blue fruit, which we thought were plums; they were, however, the fallen berries of the fabulous great bunches of grapes, which we had tasted with such enjoyment. We now wandered through the "lovely leafy part, which was crossed by luxuriant orange groves. Alas ! the fruit with which these magnificent trees was overladen, was not yet ripe. Plants which, with us, we find in glass-houses, grew here in pic- THE FIEST DAY ON GRECIAN LAND. 27 turesquc variety ; also the inanner in which they are planted is pleasantly varied. One imagines oneself wandering in Paradise. Such a vegetation I had never before seen, such fruits never before tasted. The charm of these lovely gardens was height- ened still more by the view of the sea. The Consul was highly pleased by our enchantment, and sym- pathized with it. He had rarely, during eighteen years, shown to such appreciative travellers the wonders of this neighbourhood. Now he was once again amongst his equals, — amongst civilized men. At length we returned through inhabited streets, and paid a visit to the wife of the Consul in the Austrian consulate. She is a very polite, elegant Venetian lady of middle age, and speaks good French. They brought to us, in hex rather untidy drawing-room, some girdles, ehabroidered with silver and gold, in which the people carry their weapons, and one of which I wishBd to buy. After the lady of the house had invited us for 28 ON THE -WING. the evening, we took tlie Consul in a boat belong- ing to the ' Yulcan,' to dine with us in the ship. We were packed like herrings in our great poop cabin, which the heat rendered still more unplea- sant. After dinner the good old gentleman took us to a concert, which was to be conducted by the band of an irregular battalion of Greqian infantry, on the front place of the above-mentioned gardens, and where the whole population of the town was to be assembled in rich costumes. We already distinguished frorii the ship the white fustanella, and heard the souads charming us thitherwards. The siesta was over. Beautiful women, with long rich hair and pretty dresses, showed themselves as we passed along on the balconies. In the streets also we encountered the most charming Patras ladies, leaning on ihe arms of im- portant fine-looking men, who were unfortunately already retmniing home. We stepped quickly for- THE FIRST DAT ON GRECIAN LAND. 29 wardis, and found a tolerably large circle still gathered round the band, whicli just then was not playing, and which presented a ve^ shabby appcar- :ance. This sight of the people, amongst whom no division of classes is to be founds was interesting. They are aU brothers of one stock, who having lan- guished under the same yoke formerly, have now shaken it off together. The sym,pathy in joy and sorrow is the cause of their similitude. Everywhere, when one nation is subjugated by another, this likeness amongst the oppressed is to be found, at least in the unanimity of their senti- ments regarding the oppressor. .All strive after the same object, viz. liberty, and in the struggle forget their own individuality. Those families whose fathers have fought with peculiar distinction in the war of freedom alone take a higher rank. After our arrival the band played one more piece, and then everybody dispersed. The sun had disappeared behind the highe'st summit of Eu- melia. The twilight lasted scarcely a quarter of so ON THE WING. an hour ; we went, therefore, straight to the Con- snl's honse, before the darkness should set in. His wife received us, surrounded by her children. We entertained ourselves as well as we could, and somewhat later the music master of the house ar- rived, in a national dress, with his charming young wife. The Consul's lady had probably invited her in order to show us one of the best specimens of the lovely daughters of Greece. This beautiful being, seated beside me, spoke little, and only in her own language. Her hus- band , played a few of our oldest melodies with a good deal of execution. Later, the eleven-year- old young lady of the house fired off a much prac- tised little piece. I have always had a horror of the productions of precocious children, especially when their mothers are present,' and one is obliged to put on a pleased expression. By-and-by, the room filled with all the people of rank in the to\^Ti, and, amongst them, the French THE FIRST DAY ON GEECIAN LAND. 31 Consul, who, from his appearance, might haye been taken for a porter. We drank tea, that bond of union in all society of the nineteenth century, and beside this, a fearful national drink, made out of bruised gourds, was handed round. The host offered long pipes to the gentlemen, whom, at the conclusion, we induced, after many importunities, to lead the ladies and children through a national dance, which appeared very dull and uniform. "We thanked our hosts heartily, and returned by the glorious starlight to the ' Vulcan.' 32 CHAPTEE III. A LAND JOUENEY THROUGH GREECE. The contract with the man wlio Tfas to manage our journey through Hellas, was concluded. Our ship was to rejoin us at Nauplia, and we commenced our land journey on a most glorious momuig. Our household, with the exception of one man, we left on board. Our luggage we also reduced to the barest necessaries. We had, on account of the fatigues of the way, dressed ourselves in most singular costumes, and when we assembled to get into the boat, a looker-on might have fancied we were a band of strolling actors just setting out on their travels. Some had on tall boots, others tied A LAND JOUENEY THROUGH GEEECE. Orf in their blouses with girdles, and were armed with clubs, daggers, and guns against robbers, and with "umbrellas against the sun. The author of this diary drew forth a Chinese parasol, made of extraordinarily light stuff, which, in spite of the ridicule of his companions, served him in good stead. In case of bad weather, we had already procured in Trieste some peculiar Istrian "marinaros" of brown leather, and provided with capes. The horses awaited us before the Consul's house, who received us on the steps in front in his morn- ing neglige. Only a few of the beasts and their bridles would bear .inspection. The poor nags were in a frightful state of emaciation, and their harness was a conglomeration of chains, ropes, and bits of leather. The contractor, whom we will call Demetry, was busily employed in dividing the beasts among the riders, and at the same time praised their qualities inordinately, in which the Consul, whose eques- 34 ON THE WING. trian comprehension appeared to be very weak, supported him zealously. The packhorses were laden so heavily with stores and provisions that they almost disappeared from our sight. At a quarter to seven the long procession set out, escorted for safety by the gens d^armes of the town of Patras. At first, we passed through the fruitful vine- covered hiUs which rose behind the town, and over slight ascents; the people were everywhere busy with the grape-harvest. Along =the road leafy huts were erected, in order to pro- tect the fruit. I wondered to find groups of reeds of unusual growth on the heights between grapes, oranges, and pomegranates. The view of the blue gulf and the mountains of Eumelia was charming ; a magical repose lay upon the landscape, and everything glistened in the fresh morning air. The stony road, intersected by small streams and bushes, descended by-and-by, and led through the dried-up bed of a broad tor- rent, in which, to our astonishment, vegetation was most Inxuriiius. A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 35 The oleanders grew in great dark clumps, out of •whicli peeped the lovely rose-coloured blossoms ; and the modest myrtle, with its dark grey foliage, formed bushes of such si^e and luxuriance in this sandy soil, that those who have only seen it in pots would scarcely recognize it. Our road lay parallel with the seashore, and, for the last time, the suburbs of Patras were seen in the morning light. On the Gulf of Lepanto — famed for its sea-fight, — we saw the town of the same name. It is hemmed in between high mountains and the sea. The fort of Eion lies before it on a small promon- tory, and on the side nearest to lis rose the fortress of Antirion from amidst the waters. Both these fortifications have Greek garrisons. The importance of the victory of Don Juan is here intuitively per- ceived. We could understand the impossibility of the Turkish -fieet finding an outlet when once it had crossed this narrow line of sea. Once more Lepanto played an important part in the strife for liberty. Now it is scarcely of any significance. D 2 36 ON THE WING. ^ One beautiful picture after auother disclosed it- self before our eyes, for the waves of sea-foam meeting tbe abundant vegetation offers something :new to the traveller, and fresh charms are never wanting; the nearer we approach to the sea, the more these increased. After a three hours' ride, however, in spite of our enthusiasm and hilarity, our limbs felt tired, our stomachs empty, and our powers of comprehension weakened. We were very glad when Demetry showed us a spot of green groimd at the edge of a little creek, as the "Khan" where we were to get our luncheon. When we arrived before the hut, our horses were ■consigned to the servants, and w6 encamped in the shade of the building. The marinaros took the place of cushions, and a tablecloth was spread on the turf. Flasks and plates were taken out of the ^bags, and, after the old custom, we made a hearty meal lying down, and then rested an hour by the fresh seashore. A few of the gentlemen took their A LAND JOURNEY THROUGIJ GREECE. 37 siesta. My brotlier, Dr. F., and I resolved to take a little walk in the neiglibourhood. Close to the houses the vegetable world was refreshed by wide, pond-like streams, and near the sea grew impenetrable thickets. Where the way -was not blocked np by the thick foliage and branches, the path was rendered difl&cult by the most beautiful creepers, whose quaint chains we broke through with much labour. Our hope was that we might catch tortoises, of which we had picked up some on the way, but no such good fortune befell us. We remarked a large dead plane-tree, on which, iastead of leaves, there was a forest of wild vine ; the elegant tendrils drooped around us like a green waterfall, — the most practised gardener could not have arranged such ieautiful wreaths, I would gladly have sketched this full, fresh life surrounding the dead limbs, if I iad had time. We tasted the fruit of the wild vine, and found that it equalled our garden grapes in sweetness. When we came back to the shore, -38 ON THE WING. Professor G. busied himself with his usual talent in drawing the bay with its surroiindings. The Ke- corder K. sat in the shade of an oliye-tree, and wrote a poem. The rest slept away the pleasant hours, — a few, however, having seated themselves on the sands. We went to bear them company ; the depths of the ocean always exercise a mysterious charm upon me. Powerfully and irresistibly the bottomless flood attracts me, and I rejoice in all that belongs 40 it. Even the little mussels tTiat were turning over in the sand might have been supposed to be gold pieces, so diligently did I pick them up. Yet soon the signal for departure was given, and, according to our corpulency, we jumped, or we crept, into our saddles. New objects continued to appear and disappear ; bay followed upon bay; now we passed over the fine sand of the sea, then through bushes and pic- turesque hollow ways, or over lightly swelling heights. A LAND JOTJRNEY THROUGH GREECE. 39 The country may be called -wtilcL and unculti- vated, but tbere is a great charm in this rank, luxuriant nature. Wtere there are great yellow patches of bare earth, there are also pine-trees, with their needle-like crowns, which are greener than the freshest leaves ; tall plantains,- with their broad branches, creepers and vines embracing their trunks, and lovely myrtle mixed with the poetic laurel. These green resting-places for the eye are a hundred times more beautiful than if the cold hand of the utilitarian had drawn his straight fur- rows through a landscape in which such deep peace reigns, which labour has not overturned ; no ship disturbs the mirror of the deep blue sea ; no church-tower, no ruins distract the eye from the glowing mountains. lie who complains of the monotony of these countries has not experienced their charm, and I can only pity the man whose heart does not expand with delight when he sips the air pf old Hellas. The Grecian sun had soon done its work, and. 40 ON THE WING. after a second three hours' ride, we longed for refreshment. Again we approached a " Khan," which was thickly surrounded by great olive-trees. A few vineyards were to be found in the neigh- bourhood, and we expressed our wish to the guides to refresh ourselves with the Grecian grapes. "We soon procured a quantity of them, and a splendid melon. On the way we had already met groups of two or three persons riding upon asses, carrying dried rgrapes in leathern bags to thf markets of the larger towns. These riders have a highly pic- turesque appearance ; the manner in which they are dressed, their peculiar seat upon the animal, iheir noble bearing, gave us an exalted opinion of the beauty of the Greeks. We found several of these men in the "Khan;" most of them were strongly armed, which heightened their natural dignity. When they saw Dr. F. taking snuff, they bogged him for a pinch, and thanked him grace- A LAND JOURNEY THEOUGH GREECE. 41 fully for it. They let us examine tlieir- clothes without embarrassment, preserving throughout their proud, self-reliant bearing. In the interior of the "Khan" was a booth-like room, in which were offered necessary articles in that land. Glasses, pots, and bowls ; amongst them were liquors of a rather uninviting smell, so we spent the rest of our repose in the open air. As we rode on, it appeared that my horse was of tolerable speed, which was not the case with all. The Eecorder K. asserted that his was vicious and kicked. The poor gentleman had never ridden before, and was now obliged to make his first essay for twelve hours in a bad saddle ! Two gens cParmes led our qijaint procession ; they were a mixture of Bavarian and Greek, — their heads belonged to their Fatherland, and their clothes, or uniforms, were Greek. Behind them rode Count C, in imperturbable calm, smoking and taking in the new impressions dumbly. Then followed Prince J. and Baron K. ; the first 42 ON THE WING. longed in vain for the comfortable-looking villas, with their beautiful inhabitants, which we passed ; the latter broke in poor Dcmetry's horse like a riding-master. Dr. F. went on his way with slow quietude, and amused us with interesting anecdotes, which he knew how to tell very well. Occasionally he refreshed himself with a pinch of snuff. My bro- ther generally rode next to him, and protected himself from the heat of the sun by a great um- brella. Now came G., perched between the leathern bulwarks of his Turkish saddle. In the ascents and descents compassionate souls gave him help, for he, too, was unaccustomed to riding, though he carried himself very wdll for a novice. I pranced upon my fiery, small grey horse from one to the other ; my Chinese pariasol, like a banner of victory, in my hand, and am\ised myself with the merry jokes of the company. As we once more rode by the seaside, we were suddenly over- taken by a passing torrent of rain, and were ob- A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 43 liged to take shelter in a miserable shepherd's hut. The rain cooled and purified the air, and the even- ing by the shore was all the more delightful, whilst in Eumelia, black clouds hung over Parnassus. On approaching a small town where "we were to take up our quarters for the night, we found the surrounding country very wet; we had to wade through several brooks, in the middle of which oleanders bloomed. One of the horses of the lead- ing gens d''armes began to prance in passing a thick bush of them. The Prince's horse, next to whom I rode, was also frightened, but we passed by in safety. The Prince, however, begged me to watch how it fared with the rest as they passed this bug- bear, so, looking round, I beheld our poor Eecorder upon the neck of his brown nag, leading a forlorn kind of dance, which ended in his lying helplessly on the grass. It turned out that the cause of this alarm was a donkey covered with reeds, and the horses had all .shied at the moving mass. I sprang to my dear 44 ON THE WING. Eecorder, who, happily, was uriinjured, and was soon in his saddle again, laughing over his disaster. A little before sunset we were shown our night quarters, viz. the little town of Vostizza. The shores of this gulf are particularly beautiful, owing to the heights which spring out o.f the sea, hiding the past and the coming bay. Vostizza lies upon just such a pretty ascent. My trother and I rode on now with Prince J. straight to our point. We had to pass the bed of a broad river, then up a steep hill, which was washed out like a sandbank. The sea appears to have once reached nearly thirty fathoms higher than it does now. Be- tween this bank and the sea stretches a pleasant green plain, covered with vineyards ; a few houses run out into the sea; in the midst rises a large, plane-tree, which is said to date from the time of Pythagoras. "We rode in at the upper side of the town. The cook of Demetry, who had hastened on before, ^ifuided us to the house where we -were to spend the A LAND JOtENEY THROTJGII GREECE. 45 night. It had the appearance of an inn. On the ground floor was a large room, which, instead of a window, had an opening upon the street, and which served as kitchen, cellar, storeroom, and magazine. Our food was already prepared, but covered with thousands and thousands of flies, which was not agreeable. Besides the flies, several curious toAvns- people gathered together, whose clatter, added to the buzz of the insects, made a most confusing concert. Up a tumble-down wooden staircase we mounted to the upper story, which contained two so-called rooms, in which we could not complain of the new fashion of the furniture. Four naked walls, not to be called white, so covered were they with dirt; our noses, too, could have well dispensed with the Grecian atmosphere of the room. This was not a comforting prospect ; but after a ride of twelve hours, I thought we could make our- selves tolerably comfortable wiiih straw and our marinaros. 46 ON THE wing; The Prince, however, asserted that this station was not conformable with the contract which we had concluded with Demetry, and that it was be- neath our rank to sleep in such quarters. I repre- sented that the simplest plan would be to camp out in the open ; but the Prince continued to insist upon a serious conversation with Demetry, and I rested myself meanwhile upon the sill of the open- ing in the lower room and watched the movements of the Hellenes. Several trains of laden asses, horses, and mules went by with slow steps, for as there are few carriages in Greece, except at Athens, these trains are seen in every street. Our appearance soon attracted several of the re- spectable people of the town. Since the English blockade, strangers are a rare spectacle to Grecian eyes. I must, however, confess that the inhabitants are more polite than in our more civilized lands. If you nod at them kindly, they thank you imme- diately with the greeting of the country, laying their hand on tht'ir heart and forehead. A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 47 After some time, Demetry and those who had re- mained behind came up, and he was assailed by everybody with requests for a better night's lodg- ing ; instead of making excuses, he spoke to a few well-dressed citizens near, and begged us to follow him. He led us into the higher- part of the town, and introduced us, with great archness, into the handsome and commodious house of a royal officer, who must have been not a little surprised to see himself suddenly invaded by so large a company. He, however, proffered us Oriental hospitality in the fullest measure. "We were soon settled in two rooms, partly furnished, which were cleaned for us, one on the second floor. The master of the house was himself present in order to provide for our necessities at the shortest notice, and expressed himself most cordially towards us in broken French. From the larger room there led a frail, almost dangerous balcony, with a most magnificent view of the opposite bay. It was a Southern night in its fullest beauty, — the stars sparkled like diamonds, 48 ON THE WING. and the moon like a sMp sailed quietly in tlie blue ether. The town, with its lovely gardens, lay in silent evening rest ; the sea shimmered in the re- flection of the moon ; nature in this solemnized mo- ment rested from its work. An inward relaxation came over me after the overpowering heat of the past day, and a refreshing little breeze blew from the sea over the sleeping country ; meanwhile the supper and dinner in one was laid out, and we addressed ourselves courage- ously to it in spite of the swarms of flies. The master of the house fetched the best wine he possessed, out of his cellar, and looked on with anxiety when we raised our glasses to our lips in order to taste it. The presence o'f our amiable host alone deterred us from dashing tiem down again. It was a sweetly-sour drink, which, from the goat- skin bottle it was kept in, had become truly horri- ble. Enthusiastic as I generally was over Hellas, I never got on well with its wine. A merry conversation enlivened our meal, but at A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 49 length our bodies demanded their rights, and we retired to rest. We found only one bed and two diyans prepared for us, a part of the company there- fore accommodated themselves upon the floor. To- wards five o'clock we were awoke by the sound of the reveilUe, we hastily swallowed our breakfasts and were then conducted to a cellar where lay two very beautiful antique statues. Art in Vostizza did not appear much advanced, since they had left these rare marble forms lying amongst rubbish in the deepest obscurity. One was a female figure, probably a Geres, with excel- lent draperies, but unfortunately the head was wanting ; the other was the statue of a slender youth whose limbs showed a beautiful regularity. A fine head of a man, with noble features, lay near the other two. The marble was transparent, like that which, so we are told, was used in Penthe- licon. This neglect of such fine works of art proves, that if the modem Greeks have inherited the 50 ON THE WING. courage, wit, and ctmning of their ancestors, the creative genius of these latter exists no more. The flower of that art is dead, and we scarcely find even a trace of its roots, so that we dare not hope for a fresh growth. When we returned to our lodgings, we found our horses already before them. We thanked our friendly. host and resumed our journey. We passed through several streets in picturesque confusion, like those of Patras. At half-past six o'clock we were outside the town. The sun had risen splendidly over the mountains of Corinth, announcing a very hot day. At- the farther extre- mity of the plaia we saw the first palm-tree rising majestically thirty feet high over a desert church- yard. The emblem of peace had sprung from the bodies, and pointed its slender shafts upwards to direct the living to their future. The lower part of the ancient leaves formed the scaly rind of the trunk, which each year puts on a fresh crown, con- sisting in a green basket-like busTi growing on the highest point of the tree. A LAND JOURNEY THEOUGH GREECE, 51 From the town the road leads slowly downwards in a broad vineyard-covered plain,! stretching on to the moTintatas. It was traversed by several dried -river-beds, filled with rich oleander bushes, which wandered into the sea. The vineyards were full of life, and we met many trains of rich and poor in the most variegated dresses, riding on mules or asses. They were either going from or retiring to the leafy huts with the consecrated grape-crop. These vine-dressers' huts offered an Oriental picture. Several women, with disordered black hair, cooked the frugal meal inside, and without stood the master in all his manly beauty, artistic dress, and rich weapons. The children crawled among the great melon heaps. This fruit grows to a perfect sweetness and dehoacy between the vines, and I first learnt to know its pxcellence here. Close by stood groups of the beasts of burden, laden with goat-skin bottles and baskets for carry- ing the pressed must and the full grapes. The vines are not, as among us, trained up sticks. E 2 62 ON THE WING. They either form shady roofs, supported by light poles, or they throw their green, chains from tree =to tree ; they also trail upon the ground, and weave a fresh green network over the plain. This verdured plain is only as long as the town. ^As soon as it is ended, the mo.untains again ap- proach the seashore, so that the road winds at times along dizzy rooks. We were astonished to see how clever the horses were in climbing, cat-like, over the steepest ascents. Often the path ran danger- ously near the edge of the rock, whose base was laved by the blue waves, and whose topplLng crags overshadowed us in an alarming manner. Occa- sionally, instead of the rocks, we saw sand-cones, which have been washed into the oddest shapes by the rippling water. It amused me to watch the playful movements of the waves as they climbed the heights, now caressingly, now boisterously, declaring a continual war against the shore. The stones seem frequently cleft by the water. The road became so steep that A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECB. OO we were obliged to dismount and lead our horses after us. The necessity for this, however, soon ceased, and the burning air was cooled by rain. On the high walls of rock grew pines, laurels, and the evergreen-oak. These oaks were only the size of bushes, and were covered with small prickly leaves, but the fruit surpasses greatly that of our oaks. In the gardens of Yienna this tree has not been introduced ; but I had the pleasure of seeing several shoots, which I took with me, take root at home. The boughs, bending gracefully over the road, were covered with creepers, of which I col- lected as many seeds as I could, and put them into my travelling bag, to plant, if possible, in my garden. After we had passed one or two more bays, the rocks retreated suddenly further from the sea, and we found ourselves on a level between two creeks covered with vines and olive-trees. We also passed by the finest fig-tree I had seen yet. It stood in the midst of a vineyard ; the branches were laden 54 ON THE WING. with baskets, full of the most beautiful fruit. Our guides threw themselves upon the tree and se- lected some of the finest figs and grapes, which were a real refreshment to us poor, tired, and heated wanderers, only the quantity was greater than we could carry. There is nothing in the world sweeter or more delicious than Grecian fruit, and parti- cularly the honey-like fig. The mountaias ended abruptly by a river, rather dang^ous for the rider. An old bridge led over it, but as one of the arches was wanting, we were obliged to go through the water. It flowed on for some time through a beau- tiful valley. A chirp of insects accompanied us the whole way ; the noise often becoming so loud and shrill that we took it for a bird, and looked to see if it were a peculiar kind of q-ijail. When, how- ever, we traced the sound to one particular olive- tree, and could not discover any bird, we felt sure that the soimd was that of a cricket. We had quenched our overpowering thirst with the figs and grapes, but as we also experienced hunger, we A LAND JOUKNEY THKOU&H GREECE. 55 were glad to hear from Demetry that a small house stood on the shore of the bay before us, in which 'we might take our breakfast. It was built on the shifting sand, a few steps from the sea, whose cool- ing breezes did us much good, for the heat had be- come extraordinary. The roof of the *' khan " was pierced with holes, like the hut of a beggar ; the remainder of the building was just like the ruins we have already described. Before the miserable walls of the upper story was a balcony, under which we took our repast of eggs, cakes, and cold meat ; what was wanting in the meal was supplied by good humour, though a few voices were raised, by those who had hoped for more comforts on the journey. Dr. F. complained, like a genuine com- fortable Yiennese, over the eating and drinking. Professor G. and I combated him diligently as sin- cere enthusiastic travellers and admirers of Hellas. Meanwhile our guides quarrelled and screamed, which gave us the opportunity of learning to know the sound of the native tongue, and in- '50 ON THE WING. spired me so much that I swung myself upon the tottering balcony, and thundered forth to our com- pany in a language resembling the Grecian tongue, which greatly increased our merriment, and im- mediately attracted the attention of the Greeks. The modern Greek sounds very differently when used by the common people from what it does in the mouth of the better class ; it then resembles more the ancient Greek, and they always try to bring in classical words to thef exclusion of the Sclavonic element. After a short rest we again set off. I, with Professor G., led the troop ; and we passed a pleasant afternoon in quiet, thoughtful conversation. "We spoke principally of the magical effects of colouring in this country ; he expressed himself as a genuine artist, and I enjoyed his sound reflective judgments. During the conversation we continued to ride through the fine sand of the shore, which height- ened the charm of his discourse. The deep blue, and clear green surface of the undulating water. A LAND JOURNEY THEOUGJI GREECE. 57 captivated us irresistibly, and illustrated what he said. We rode delightedly into the beating waves, and felt tlie charm which lies in contemplating these dancing waters and thei;- innermost life. The stronger ones suppressed and rolled over the weaker ones, and their noble strength and power V melted at last softly and beautifully upon the bright clean sand, in a light white rushing foam. Suddenly, then, the mystic flood draws back, and only the little hardy outrunners trickle on the sand. Scarcely does one think oneself on dry land when a still more powerful wave dashes quickly up, and, like a troop of bridleless horses, runs still further than the former into the beach, going off again in empty foam, like a restless soul,^-the distress of a bold, discontented mind, which melts away like the wave into the sand. There was a wild pleasure in leading our frightened horses into the tossing element, and letting the waves dash against their hoofs. The beasts were 58 ON THE WING. often driven back by their power, but our threats brought them back again, and we, with the whole party, enjoyed this play in. the waters. One minute the path wormd upwards, and new pictures Avere spread before us ; these were repeated where the indented heights broke the uniformity of the shore. The figures of our fellow travellers, seen first on the yellow patches of sand and stones, and then slowly climbing the heights, like sil- houettes in the blue air, and then suddenly dis- appearing behind a rock, added to the interest, — the fantastic figures forming a contrast to the majestic solemnity of nature. Upon one of the hills we came npon the ruins of a fortress, which had been destroyed through the fury of the Turks. In poor Hellas frequent traces are to be found of how fearfully the hand of the Moslem has been laid on the Christian lands, and how heavy their revenge on thfe combatants has been. The wounds of the country will bleed some time longer, and it will requu'c a firm hand to A LAND JOUKNEY THEOUGH QEEECE. 59 bring it to such a point as will enable it to make use of the hardly won victory. Down from these rocks we rode on through the usual vegetation to the shore, which we did not quit again imtil, at five o'clock, we came to the little place of Sakoly, destined to be our station for the night. It also is built on the sands, and has rather a Turkish than a Grecian appearance. The chimney- pots glittered like minarets; except for these ornaments, everything in this village is poor and at the lowest degree of culture. We were agaia shown a "khan," in which we found a small room with two wooden bedsteads. Until the meal was ready we went to walk upon the beach ; but the coolness of the evening, con- trasted with the previous heat of the day, was so great that we dared not stay long:to enjoy the ever- increasing fresliness. The sun had gone to rest gloriously,- and with the dangerous change of tem- perature, usual in Greece, came the night. Before the meal I wrote my diary. The uncomfortable 60 ON THE WING. coucli and the insects preTented oiir going to sleep till late; we were packed together like herrings, which gave rise to many squaljbles and many- jokes. I had not slept many hours when the Eecorder K. woke me, because he could not sleep himself, and was restless in consequence. Naturally, we let the others have no more quiet. Oux breakfasts were brought to us, and some time before sunrise we left our night's lodging. I was so unwell that it was only out of consideration for the rest of the company that I forced myself to ride. I awaited the warm rays of the sun with anxious longing. The bare summits of the mountain tops kindled in the glow. Towards Corinth, the purple band of the dawn became clearer and warmer, untU at length, at the moment the sun appeared, it was transformed into a sea of golden rays. The sea lent a golden-tinted fringe of foam to the shore, the vine-covered mountains gleamed in light green ver- dure, and the pine-trees swung t5 and fro in the A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GEEECE. 61 fresli air. My indisposition continued to increase, and an hour after sunrise I was obliged to lie down in the open air. Dear Dr. P. covered me with cloaks and mariaaros, and did me so much good, that after a little while, the caravan was able to start once more. "We followed the gulf for some time, often hindered by the numerous bushes. "We frequently passed houses, which were, however, mostly de- serted. Several Scriptural-like wells stood near the sea. By the " khan," where we were to breakfast, stood a crowd of mules laden with grapes. My companions instantly seized on these, but I was so tired with riding that I went on on foot. Towards noon we reached Sizia, a small place by the shore, where Demetry had procured us quite a neat, gaily-painted, and well-arranged house for this neighbourhood. A terrace looked upon the sea. The room appeared a mixture of Oriental taste and European civilization. It contained several divans, gold-framed mirrors, Etruscan vases and clocks. 62 ON THE WING. i3ut that which we thought still more charming, was the beautiful and amiable cousin of our young host. She must have had some expectation of our arrival, for her fez, set so neatly on her brown hair, and the material of her fur-trimmed dress, were too magnificent for every-day use. She appeared to be pleased at our admiring her beautiful costume. We went into the drawing- room, and could there observe the arrangement of a well-to-do Grecian house. In the East every- thing is done for show and magnificence, so they give us gold-embroidered towels; but there is wanting, amidst this extravagant luxury, most of the common comforts of life. In almost every Grecian room hang, in simple wooden frames, the portraits of the King and Queen, the soldier-heroes of liberty, and also scenes from the wars against the Turks. The pictures, however, were not worthy of the men or their deeds, and showed but a small amount of artistic talent. After a short rest we continued our road to A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. C3 Corinth along the coast, and towards evening the proud Acro-Corinth, with the town, rose before ns on the extremest point of the gulf. The nearer the sea comes to the shore, the darker becomes its blue and the calmer its surface. The manner of building the houses, like the manner and appear- ance of the men, changes in this broad plain. Complexion and features take a gipsy-like cast, and the dress is light and disorderly. We rode on for hours without appearing to get nearer the town. At sunset Acro-Corinth, and some of the higher summits, glowed in inexpressible beauty; other mountains were coloured orange and violet, and the most distant were veiled in that mystic black-blue which excites the imagination with a vague long- ing. The sea, too, had a deeper colouring than I ever saw elsewhere. We rode quietly and admir- ingly through all this magnificeut colouring, be- neath which the yellow earth peeped forth in several places. 64 ON THE WING. Below Corinth, tlie topmost boughs of the olive- trees shone for the last time in the rosy glow ; the sun sank behind the mountains of Patras, and the soft air of twilight fell over the surrounding country. While we continually fancied we were close to Corinth, it fled before us, like a deceptive mirage ; we rode and rode, and could not reach it. The air upon the plain after sunset was disagree- able, and made us feel realjy uncomfortable. However, just as night overtook us, we reached our goal. Fearful,— yes, horrible, — appeared the ruins and subterranean vaults upon the pale desert earth. "We rode amidst a sea of stones, but out of the Hack depths a poisonous air seemed to issue. A few solitary figures crept from fragment to frag- ment, like evil spirits. It was a picture of de- struction, and the curse. We fancied ourselves in the city of the dead. At length we came to a somewhat more civilized j)art of the town, where life appeared to reign once more. We stopped in a small place, before a A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 65 brilliantly-lighted, nice-looking house, that shone upon us like a star out of the* darkness. It be- longed to the family N., to whom our host had announced us without our knowledge. "We did not know what to do in our new situation, until, to our delight, we heard German voices ; at the same moment a great figure came towards us out of the obscurity, and invited us, in the German tongue, to sit down and pass the night in the family N.'s house. "We followed this voice crying in the wilderness, which at that moment really seemed to us like that of a prophet, and stepped through the door of the dwelling. Here stood men and women, in the national costume, evidently apprized of our arrival: The German was a physician, who had lived here many years. He led us to a clean, prettily-furnished room on the first floor, and intyoduced us to the daughter of the house. Eulalia, as this fair one was called, appeared in a y "66 ON THE ■WING. gorgeous costume tliat heightened her beauty, and Helen herself, could she have reappeared, might not have scorned the beauty of the Grecian damsel. She -was a brilliant meteor in her first youth. Her tall, slender figure, of regular proportions, showed the noble form of Southern development. Her features were those of an antique cameo. Upon the ivory skin were pencilled with proud decision her dark brows, over her almond-shaped eyes. Her glorious hair fell back in waves off her dazzling temples, and upon her head was placed the dark fez, with its long tassel, which dangled on her shoulder. Unfortunately, she only spoke Greek, and Dr. H. was obliged to act as interpreter. Her father is Minister of the Interior in Athens, and she will soon go there ta marry a doctor. Amongst her suite were several companions, and a brother of her father, who, a few months after our visit, was killed in a party .combat with the peasants. After we were once more alone, we seated ourselves, tolerably tired by our journey, A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 67 round the tea-table. The recorder, K., was unwell. Dr. H., whom we had invited to dine with us, rewarded our civility with long, interesting anec- dotes on the state of Greece. These stories did not give a good account of the natives ; but in this he only practised retaliation, for the hatred of the Greeks to foreigners is so great that they have coined a word expressly to convey this meaniag. Only for physicians have they any respect, because they expect help from them agaiast the dreadful fevers which raged but now so fiercely ia Corinth. Bathing in the sea and the air during the twi- light, is dangerous. Owing to the temperance of the iuhabitants and the otherwise good climate, other evils are rare. More dangerous than the fever are the robbers. According to Dr. H.'s ac- count, the greater proportion of the people are of this craft, and its followers are said to have raised themselves to court dignities. As all men who fought in the wars of freedom (called Palikaren, heroes) have the right to bear F 2 68 ON THE WING. arms, robbery becomes especially easy to tbem. Often, in the middle of the town, a house is at- tacked; our night's lodgings :in Vostizza were thus once endangered for a wjiole night. Tra- vellers do well to be accompanied by a sufficient number of gens d'armes. If such dangerous men are caught, it may happen that they rise after a -short imprisonment to honour and distinction, for patronage and bribery are still greater here than in -civilized countries ; thus the highest in the land are sometimes in doubtful company. Party quarrels also divide and destroy the coun- try to a sad extent. The principal strife is between -certain families who, having been distinguished in the war foi' freedom, form a succedaneum for our aristocracy. In every town one of these has the •upper hand, whilst the rest do all in their power to dislodge them. In Corinth it was our friendly hosts, the N.'s, who led the city, and exercised a kind of feudal power. This family finds its support in the favour A LAND JOUENEY THROUGH GEEBCE. 69 of the King. The father of Eulalia, as I have already said, is Minister of "War ; another brother is Pilikar and aide-de-camp of his Majesty. Should the royal favour be withdrawn from them, /they are, according to Dr. H.'s assertions, no longer safe for an hour in their four walls. Even if the good doctor's account was a little exaggerated, it was very iateresting, for it was the first time we had listened to a free conversation on the country and its customs. "When he began to describe the horrors of the fever, our Kecorder vanished suddenly, and, after we had fini.shed supper^ we found him in a state of great emotion. He complained of dread- ful pains in his knees, and in reality looked feverish. Inwardly he quite believed he was a victim to the fearful epidemic, and was very much alarmed, but would not hear of consulting the physician. We forced some cold bandages upon him, and only retired to rest when he was a little re-established. The beds were broad and soft, and the arrange- ments luxurious for the country. We saw that we 70 ON THE WING. were sub umbra alarum in the house of a man whom '' the King delighteth to honour." After our great fatigue we slept excellently ; hut in spite of the soft pillows and gold-emhroidered linen, there were many traces in the morning of a savage army of dwarfs on our mottled bodies ! Magnificence and dom next door to one another ! Early in the morning the friendly H. appeared with our horses, to conduct us, after a hearty breakfast, to the far-famed Acro-Corinth, It was 5 o'clock A.M., and a fresh morning air gave us reason to expect a fine day. The increasing light showed us the ruins of the once flourishing town, on which, in spite of the soft morning rays, we could still trace the curse of heaven. Where were the palaces, the noble woods of cypress trees, the innumerable remembrances of ancient Greece? "Where did the chaste figures of the priestesses wander ? All the charms we find described in classic lore are vanished. Man's spirit has ceased to rule, and it is only the elements in their might A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 71 wliicli inspire us with admiration. The sea, the sky, and the mountains distract our glances from the twice-destroyed town, whose few remains only show to posterity its former grandeur. Our con- ductor led us first to the ruins of the temple of Neptune. They merely consist in four orlfive low columns, which are mighty even in their downfall. Two of these are bound together by a horizontal block of stone. One of these threatens a speedy downfall, for from the lower part a great piece is broken out, and has been plastered up with small stones and cracked mortar. Did this temple stand in France or England, it would be put under a glass case by the archae- ologist ; for where there exists a scarcity, possession is prized, and where, as here, there is such abun- dance, it is scarcely valued. The prettiest Etruscan vases are to be bought here for a mere trifle, though cdnsidered at home like jewels only fit for a museum. I did not 72 ON THE WING. neglect the opportunity of procuring some of these lovely shaped vessels. Behind the ruins of Nep- tune's Temple, the ground began to rise. We could ride outside the town up to the ruins of Acro-Corinth. Everything around us was desert with the ex- ception of a large fig-tree, which overshadowed a beautiful Turkish well, on the stones of which were inscribed some verses from the Koran. A thin Moorish woman filled her earthenware pitcher from it. Dr. H. told us that a few of these children of the equator remained- from the time of Ibraham Pasha, though the greater number had fallen victims to the rage of the fanatical Hellenes. In Corinth, in particular, the most horrible scenes of cruelty took place, — the Mussulmen slew the defenceless ones, and were naurdered in retalia- tion themselves by the victorious Greeks. From the well, the road continued to become steeper, and we soon were climbing up great rocks upon the craggy heights. Thg town vanished A LAND JOURNEY THEOUGH GEEECE. 73 for some minutes from our sigM, and from the southern side we perceived the extraordinary stony fortress which stands at the entrance of the steep path. Wells, towers, and batteries are planted with a bold and practical genius on the single out- stretched rock, one of the many useful works of the Venetian rule. Before the once terrible gate we dismounted, and led our horses up the rest of the way. We knocked at the great dark door, which was ppened to us from the inside by a smart look- ing Grecian hussar. Through a dark archway, before which hung a portcullis, we passed to a small house which serves now as a residence to the garrison. This latter consists of ten or twelve wretched-looking men, who, according to the ideas of the country, are called soldiers ! In front of the barrack lay six or seven Venetian cannon without wheels ; as if, tired of the long in- action, they had determined to make themselves comfortable. Acro-Corinth is built irregularly round the flat of the rooks, whose edge is sur- 74 ON THE WING. rounded by a wall, upon whicli, from point to point, little towers are erected. Broken pieces of rock, great heaps of ruined stones, bare walls of small bouses, some cannon, bones of men and beasts lie in the direst confusion one on another. Any attempt at order or a passable road is not dreamed of. In one of the many recesses of the rocks near the entrance, we found most of the houses in ruins, and in the middle a small chapel Jrom which sprang young fig-trees. In these huts the inhabitants of Corinth sought refuge, after the ^Greeks for the first time took tho fortress fr'om the ::Turks. Dr. H. made us remark two curious plants, growing between these ruins. One is the poison- ous squirting-eucumber, the fruit of which, if touched, shoots forth its grains of seed with such force that the unwary bending over it may in a moment lose their sight. I covered my eyes, and struck the gourd with my foot,- then I heard the A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 75 -seeds rattling against my hat. The other plant twined round the stones with beautiful dark green leaves. Its blossoms were of a pure white, and filled with an innumerable number of fine stamens ; a sweet and delicious smell was given forth by this delicate flower. The fruit was long, resembling a small green cucumber ; the inside of it was filled with little red seeds. Tet neither fruit nor flower gives the plant its importance, but the tiny dark green buds, which, under the name of — the reader must have guessed it already — " capers," find their place upon every table. We had still a good bit of the outer wall to climb, until, on reaching the highest point, we be- held Hellas, like an open map, lying below us. Towards the town the dark narrow band of the Isthmus stretched between two of the sunlit glassy plains. This fruitful strip of land is unfortunately uninhabited and uncultivated, and only a few pine- woods break the surface of yellow earth which lies like an unused treasure. 76 ON THE WING. There was a plan of colonizing Germans on the Isthmus, but it came to nothing through the want of energy in the Government, and tlie hatred of the Greeks for foreigners. German industry might have saved the beautiful country by culture, and the four hundred families who were destined to do it have shown their neighbours how rich and happy it was possible to be on such a soil. The breadth of the Isthmus, always inconside- rable, appears still narrower when seen from above. On the further side of the sea, immediately by the shore, the mountains of Eumelia and Livadia rise towards the heavens. The rockstare bare of trees, but coloured by the sun. Mountains appear, like men, to be mean or noble. The heights of Hellas arise like the noble forms — like old heroes. A Helicon, a Libetrius, a Cythero, stand forth Like the ghosts of a glorious time. In the direction of Athens and Salamis the fog presented our distin- guishing objects cleai'ly. On that side we saw, nearest to us, Lutrcki, u small settlement, with the A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 77 depot of the Austrian Lloyd's, and an inn destined for the passengers of the steamboat. On the same coast lay Eelamachi, where travellers are again taken up in a steamer to go on tO' Athens. Below us was Corinth, less frightful and more pleasing when contemplated from this height. Several towers are to be seen from hence, with which the Turks had surrounded the town. The ground sinks down gradually towards the city, which may be reached in about half an hour. From the rocks of Acro-Corinth is a tolerably large, vine-covered plain, whilst, from the mountains to the Morea stretches an olive-wood for nearly a league, whose fruit brings in to the various proprietors a yearly income of 50,000 thalers. The trees of this grove are at a certain distance from each other, and in height and form resemble large willows. Their colour depends on the degree of cultivation bestowed on them, those most care- fully tended being of a darker hue; in Dal- matia, as at Eagusa, the leaf is of a dark grey- 78 ON THE wmG. Hue. The plain before us runs into a narrow rocky pass, through, which is the road to NaupKa, bordered by a river. A glimpse was here caught of the interior of the Morea, showing us huge moun- tarus of a wild character. The impression of the panorama was elevating and lovely. Earely was the hand of man to be traced anywhere ; in parti- cular, the Morea looked like an unexplored country, which had not yet been enslaved by mankind. As our time was very limited, and the road to Nauplia was long, we were obliged soon to leave this rich scenery, taking our way back to the entrance door by the opposite side. This road led us by a well, hewn in the rocks, filled with excellent water, in which Corinth abounds. We passed a small barrack, in which Bavarians were lonce quartered ; except this, we saw nothing but *rocks. A few soldiers hung about in hideous ;uniforms. The Greek in his national costume, and the Greek in foreign uniform, are as far apart as the heavens and earth, — so proud, slender, and graceful does he A LAND .TOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 79 "appear in his fustanella and fez ; So mean, thin, and pitiful in the uniform of the stranger. Through the same gate by which we had entered we now left the fort, which the Greeks had only -gained from the Turks by cunniug. It is a pity that the great work of the "Venetians is now falling to the ground. The walls are crumbling away, and most of the cannon, adorned with the proud lion of St. Mark, have been coined into money by the Government. Opposite Acro-Coriath, and between the mountains of the Morea, another rock juts out, and on its summit stands the oblong castle belong- ing to the 'N. family. We went down the steep part of the road on foot, only remounting our horses near the Turkish well. On returning to N.'s house we found the Eecorder and Professor G., who had remained in the town on account of their great fatigue. They had visited its curiosities, and had so much to relate about them that my brother, Dr. F., and I resolved to see them, also, as quickly as we could. 80 ON THE WING. Dr. H. led us up some steps, cut out of the rock, in the form of a semicircle, and one or two fathoms 4eep. Beneath this projection lies the far-famed grotto of Aphrodite. In the midst of this grotto we perceived a small opening, from whence springs a stream of the freshest water; this stream then finds its way through a hollow in the rock and spreads across the fields. In the rivulet the mythic priestesses of Yenus were wont to bathe themselves ; their temple stood just over this ledge of rock. Every Greek who was famous, but more especially generals, were obliged to place a maiden as priestess in this temple. In the interior of the cave the fresh water spread a deli- cious coolness with which the soft plashing harmo- nized charmingly. The ground was covered with the finest sand, and from all the clefts of the rocks sprang fresh grass. From the height where the tempje once stood, the ground sinks insensibly on both sides into the form of a horseshoe, so that from the country the interior A LAND JOUENEY THROUGH GREECE. 81 of the cavern could not be seen, &nd only the view of the sea was to be enjoyed. In the time of the Turks a Pasha buUt, on the spot where the temple stood, a palace, with steps conducting to the subterraneous chamber, which was used as a bath ; now both the temple and bath have vanished before God's anger over the sinning town, and the gardens, temples, and theatre, toge- ther with the 300,000 inhabitants of ancient Corinth, have become dust and ashes. The present Corinth is not larger than a German village. When we retm*ned, the beautiful Eulalia stood under the gateway, and bewitched us all with her glances. We took leave of her, thanked her for our enter- tainment, and mounting our hoi^ses rode towards Nauplia. Professor G., however, did not follow our exam- ple, thinking it would be easier to go on on foot. However, when outside the town, with the help of seyeral of us, he worked up upon his horse, we asserting that he only pretended the wish to walk, 82 ON THE WING. that he might not be obliged to take his saddle by storm in sight of the bride of Corinth. It was really a good thing that we were leaviag Eulalia's vicinity, for the figure of this lovely ma- gician had affected us all deeply. This time a greater number of gens d^armes accompanied us, because the rocky hollow through which we were to pass offered easy lurking-places to the robbers. When we arrived at Nauplia, we heard that the night before, a band of eighteen persons had been attacked and plundered in this narrow pass. Ban- ditti in Greece are an understood thiag. It appears that the morality of the Greeks is not raised by the ideas of king, fatherland, and brotherly love. Their own advantage is their guiding star. Even the marriages are not from affection, but in most cases bargains of convenience; and the reflection that you are committing a wrong upon another vanishes with them before the pleasure of filling their own pockets. We had soon crossed the bad stony road leading A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 83 over the plain of Corinth, and when we arrived at the river, found ourselves in a narrow valley, which we did not leave again till we came to Nauplia. Every now and then the barren way was enlivened by groups of pines and oleander-bushes growing in the rivers' beds. We could easily understand how, behind these fields of rocks, these innumerable ascents and hollows, the robbers ^could play a most comfortable game ! The smallest band could have fallen on our rear-guard, and, if it had been neces- sary, vanished without leaving any trace. The commencement of this route was only to be compared to the Earstes. From time to time we found pickets of the militia stationed for our pro- tection; we counted seven of them. The good peoj)le were dressed very poorly in the national dress, armed with long muskets, and looked so un- inviting that we took the first picket for the bandits themselves. Unfortunately we did not make acquaintance with any of these highwaymen, though many may G 2 84 ON THE WING. have slunk by us; but the gens d^ amies spoiled ;tlieir game. None of us would hare minded a ^slight encounter, provided it had been without serious results. Por our indemnification five large eagles hovered over our heads, and two of them were so obliging as to come so close that we could count every feather. These were the more suitable inhabitants of this stony desert. We hoped to be able to try our guns (which we had carried with us the whole journey) on one of these princes of the air, but before we could lay our hands on them they vanished out of the range of shot. The heat had become so intolerable that I was obliged to quench my thirst at a romantic, choked- up mill-stream. The spots surrounding it were beautiful, but the water was brackish and muddy. At length the narrow valley opened, and the road sloped gently up the mountains. I was reminded forcibly of our own Alpine country, particularly near the damp fields of Gastein, but only at the spot where the vegetation ceases and the fresh meadows end. A LAND JOUENEY THKOUGH GREECE. 85 Here it was we came across a hei-d of wild goats, whose long black hair, like a Kiag Charles's dog, was picked out with tan. It would be worth the trouble to introduce this beautiful breed at home. Towards the end of the valley we took our luncheon in the house of one of the gens d'armes, near a chapel. These unhappy 'men, commanded by a sergeant, are only relieved once in every six months, — an eternity in this neighbourhood ! The greater part of the men had had the fever; the sergeant, a good-looking, pleasant young man, must have suffered severely from it. He received us with great courtesy, and wished much to make himself understood, which however he could not manage. His joy was great when Eecorder K., with the help of the old Greek, read and translated the regulations written on the wall. His room, in which we breakfasted, was hung with a variety of little wood and steel engravings, proving the in- habitant to have had acquaintance wi1h books. The chapel, near the house, consisted, like all 86 ON THE WING. small Greek churches, of four bare, square walls, from four to five feet high, through which was pierced a sort of hole for a door. On one side stands a small box, upon a stone painted with holy subjects, which answers for an .alms-box. There must be a great reverence for religion amongst this robber-like people to prevent them touching such a prize, which was not fastened by the very slightest chain to the stone. After a rest of nearly an hour, we set off again. An elevated mountain-chain stood straight before us. Our valley had again narrowed into a pass, and to the right of the river rocky crags were scattered everywhere. They were not, however, entirely void of vegetation, so that, though the landscape was wild, it was not so utterly dreary. The stream we had followed so long, appeared, in the vicinity of the mill, to spring out of the ground, which rich and well-watered spot, Uke an oasis in the desert, bloomed with the thick foliage of the pomegranates, fig-trees, vines, and tall reeds. A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 87 By the mill a number of small rivulets had their source. Olive-trees drooped their shadowy heads, and fowls pecked diligently at the fruitful ground. So shady and southerly did all appear that it made up to us for the stony way. We refreshed our- selves with the excellent water, ancj left the friendly oasis, which was surrounded with houses ruined during the war of freedom. This narrow pass was the scene of a frightful massacre. Thousands of Turks fell here by the revengeful sword of the Greeks. Our road turned a little, and led among the mountains ; the stream, which had its source at the mill, flows into the sea at Lepanto, whilst we followed another, beautifully fringed with bushes, that empties itself into the Gulf of Nauplia, We crossed this some twenty times, which proves the narrowness of the watershed. The most luxuriant vegetation surrounded this river, and near the source all traces of the wild, rocky scenery dis- appeared. We laughingly called it the Amphi- 88 ON THE WING. tryon's bath, because it abounded in frogs and tortoises. These became particularly numerous where the pass widened again into a valley, and spread on each side a network of bush-grown fields. When I asked Demetry why the people did not use these animals for food, he told me it was be- cause they were held sacred. The English, how- ever, are not kept back, through this belief, from lading their ships with them, to take them to old England as a preparation for the dainty turtle soup. As they can exist for a mbnth without food, they are kept without it during the journey. "We, also, took some with us ; the little ones were not larger than the palm of the hand, but the biggest were above a foot m. diameter. It was not very easy to catch these creatures, as, in spite of their unwieldy form, they can run pretity quickly. The valley continued for seteral miles, until, about four o'clock, when we had become very tired, A\o saw a charming prospect. It was a beautiful A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 89 breezy afternoon. The sun gleamed in the blue ether, and threw clear shadows upon the plain from Napoli di Eomania, which shone in bright colours. The chain of mountains, closing in the valley, ran to the left m artistic outlines, up to the clear mirror of the gulf, and termiaated iu the exquisitely- formed Palamides, which rose near the sea-town of Nauplia. Each part of this crowned height was cut out against the blue background, and was covered by houses and large trees, on which played a lovely light. Just before us spread a fruitful plain, which reminded us of the fields of Lombardy. Trees, vineyards, and fields were blended here in the hap- piest confusion. To the right rose the proud Argos, whose strong castle rested ;upon a rock close to the mountain range. The town of Argos itself lies at its foot. On that side of the gjilf was a chain of hills in the distance, whose last offshoots formed the Cape of St. Angelo and the Cape Matapan. At our feet 00 ON THE WING. was the mountain of Mycene, the former residence of Agamemnon ; now it is a little ruinous place on a wild precipice. A rock hides the cave in which the son of Atrides is said to be buried ; unfortunately we could not visit it, because the distance from Nauplia was so great. In a house at the beginning of the plain which now lay before us, we found as an agreeable surprise, the Austrian consul, who told us he had been waiting for us for twenty^eight hours, with several carriages, and he had begun to fear that we, like our eighteen predecessors, had been attacked by robbers. The man was of Italian origin ; he wore a blue parade frock-coat, and on his head was a cap, like those worn by naval officers, but pro- vided with a monstrous leather brim. His extraordinary gesticulations betrayed his nationality, and was confirmed by a marvellous readiness of speech. We heard afterwards that, besides the office of Consul, he practised as a phy- sician. I shall ever be grateful to him for his A LAND JOURNEY TIIKOUGH GBEECB. 91 attention in bringing the carriages to meet us, for though we were obliged to dance up and down over stock and stone, it was a great comfort to be able to drive, after the bad saddles and tiring ride. "We were in excellent humour, and amused our- selves with laughing over the little disagreeables of our situation. My brother. Prince J., Baron E., and I, took one of these rickety shaky carriages. We packed ourselves closely together in the narrow space and started off at a mad gallop. The old horses stretched and racked their limbs, and our Hy- politus set them in motion with a long stick and fearful shrieks. If you imagine our conductor a slender, athletic Hellene, with the antique old god- like rays upon his lofty forehead, you are quite mistaken. He was scarcely foitr feet high, but made up for what he wanted in height by a monstrous fez, which he, unlike his countrymen, carried bolt upright like a Phrygian cap. A black cravat was laced round his neck, out of which a 92 ON THE WING. shirt-collar equally strange to tlie national costume ^stuck up like blinkers ; for the rest he was clothed in the fustanella, the spencer, and spatterdashes. Baron K. tried to make him unjierstand in Italian (which is the ordinary means of , communication in the East) that he should not drive so carelessly over everything. He, however, continued to drag .at his reins, and urge on his horses with his .discordant howls. We soon discovered that he could neither see the horses hor the road over which we were leading this steeplechase, as the great brim of his cap stretched .over his point of vision. Suddenly he raised himself, poked out his chin covered by a red beard, lifted the obtrusive brim with both hands, and looked down with astonishment on his horses ; then he turned to us, and asked in German if we would like to drive slower. Baron K. assured him that this was our fondest wish ! We now learned that he had picked up some German from the Bavarian soldiers, but fiincc the emancipation from the German yoke and A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 93 from the hatred of foreigners, he appeared to have neglected his studies. Just before the town, at the commencement of a beautiful avenue, we stopped to visit the ruins of the ancient Greek fortress of Tyrene. Its origin is lost in fables, and the walls appear the work of Cyclops. "We could fancy ourselves rather in a pile of lava remains than in a building made by man, and the architect had paid due honour to the birthplace of Hercules. But the day was beginning to decline, and we could not stay here either, as long as the interest of the place required. The abovcrmentioned avenue gave a civilized aspect to the entrance of Nauplia, "We stopped at the gates, in "order to wander through the town on foot ; unhappily it was dark already. But the fortress appeared to sur- pass Patras in size and architecture, and bore the stamp of an Italian town, which, at Patras, is only traceable in the suburbs. The latter is, however, a much finer one, and taore favoured by 94 OS THE WING. nature. As the nigM did not allow us to study details, we permitted them to conduct us to the harbour, where a boat from our worthy ' Vulcan ' took us on board. Our feelings on entering the ship were as if, after a long separation, we had returned home. We rejoiced to tread once more the quarter deck, and then in the quiet night to collect our thoughts, in the little homely cabin, and pass in review the fresh and various pictures imprinted on our minds. Tou can nowhere meditate better than in just such a narrow room, between the heavens and the waters, and I should advise every philosopher to take up his dwelling in the comer of a ship. In the poop-cabin where we usually took our meals, we found the most magnificent fruit, which the wife of the Consul had sent to the captaiu. A real marvel of nature was amongst this fruit, in the shape of a bunch of grapes, two feet long, which naturally reminded us of the wonderful specimen of Canaan, which had delighted the manna-fed A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 95 Hebrews as much as this did us. We hung it untasted to the ceiling of the cabin, so that its lower berries touched the table. "When later in the evening we stepped on the deck, the moon shone in Southern magnificence, upon the gulf and .its romantic shore, its beams danced lightly on the rippling waves, behind which, Jn the shadowy darkness of a Southern night, stood out the roofs and pinnacles of the town, and above all, like a gigantic watchman, rose the grey Palamides. In the middle of the silver mirror^ washed by the gentle wave, stood, shining in the moonlight, the 'fortress of If, whose architecture and name betray its Turkish origin. Now its toAvers rising from the little ledge serve as a prison. It was like a scene from Sir "Walter Scott's novels, and every moment I expected to hear the regular sound of the oars of a deliverer. But to-night the poor pri- soners were obliged to sigh in vain ; I think too, that we should scarcely have found any of these worthy of the title of a hero of romance. 96 ON THE WING. Soon it was quieter than ever on th.e quarter- deck. Sleep spread its wings over the merry- travellers ; only at times we heard, haK in a dream, the peaceful " All is well " from the watch of the night. It was broad daylight ere the company awoke, strengthened for fresh under- takings. The morning was destined to be spent in visiting Nauplia. The town existed under the ancient Greeks, though it was without importance. It has to thank the creative spirit of the Venetian Ee- pubHc for its magnificent fortifications, and over its gates prances the lion of St. Mark's, with its outstretched wings ; it was wrung from Turkish hands by the Greeks. It was here that they greeted for the first time their new ruler, who resided for a while in a miserable house, in a small place of this town, and only in after years chose Athens as his capital. "We first visited the Arsenal ; 'it stands upon the spot destined for it by the Venetians. As the A LAND JOUENEY THEOUGH GEEECE. 97 Greeks get all the necessaries of war from foreign countries, a few huts raised round the outer wall sufB.ce for mending their injured weapons, and any other small work. The arrangements are in nowise remarkable, and this Arsenal is only in- teresting to those who sympathize in the rising struggles of this long-oppressed people. As the commandant had had the goodness to lead us all over it and explain everything to us, Prince J., as a distinguished soldier, made some remarks that were very flattering to him. From this, we went through streets, which bore the Eastern stamp, towards the land gate of the fortress. After a Kttle time we found ourselves at the foot of the famed Palamides. The rock rises grandly from the bosom of the earth, only one side is joined to the mountain-chain. The colour varies from yellow to red ; here and there grows the pulpy yellow-blossomed cactus, whose fruit is very much esteemed by the natives. Towards the seaside the marble steps, provided with a parapet and batteries, H 98 ON THE -WING. led to the top of the fortress. Unfortunately, the weather became darker every 'moment, and at length a fine rain began to fall. This did not, however, stop us from climbing the six hundred and ninety-two steps that led into the interior of the eagle's nest. A guard of Grecian chasseurs received us at the door. From the upper batteries we had a bird's- eye view of the town. This is situated at the base of the rocks, which spread out in a promontory that surrounds the gulf. The buildings appeared at this distance tolerably good for so thinly peopled a country. Before us was a narrow network of streets and squares, in which the busy inhabitants went to and fro. Chui'ches, houstes, groups of trees, — all appeared smaller than they were, encom- passed by the mighty Venetian walls ; and the plan of the town could not have been taken more clearly than as it appeared to us from the height of the Palamides. From the t5wn to the plain, a narrow earthen causeway led between the sea A LAND JOURNEY THROUGH GREECE. 99 and the rocks, from which a second town, with cheerful houses, appeared to rest against the moun- tain. At the foot of this new settlement stands a great crag of rock, in the side of which is hewn the colossal image of a wounded lion. It was placed there by King Louis, as a remembrance of the Ba- varians who had fallen in Hellas. In the distance, through a light veil of fog, we saw Argos, and the rocky giant walls which we had left the day before by a narrow gateway. At the back of the Pala- mides rise still higher mountaias, which are only separated from the interior of the fortress by a great moat hewn in the stone. According to the -new tactics, an outwork was obliged to be made upon this dominant height for the safety of the place ; but here they fight man to man, as in the good old warfare of antiquity, and do not send destructive shots from afar. The Palamides was only fortified by the Venetians to secure the harbour. The interior of the place is H 2 100 ON THE WING. filled with dwelling-houses and "barracks standing upon the most irregular ground. The fearful disorder which reigns here is almost as remarkable as the great Venietian ruius. The soldiers look like stealers of poultry, and even the Commandant was rather wild and rough. After we had gone over the whole ground, with its bastions, heights, and hollows, we descended the six hun- dred and ninety-two steps, rendered slippery by the rain, and wandered through the streets of the town. The houses are almost all tall and narrow, and pro- vided with a balcony on every floor. On the ground were open booths, that ran out into the dark narrow streets. The tolerably numerous churches are built m. the old Byzantine style, and a Catholic place of worship, of an unchurch-like appearance, -was shown to us. The Consul told us that the Catholics in these towns were persecuted in every way. The Greek com- munity spread the most ridiculous stories about them ; they relate that the clergy stifle the dying A LAND JOURNEY THllOUGH GREECE. 101 when administering extreme unction, and the inhabitants disturb their services whenever they can. In one of the small squares we saw a tolerably well-sculptured marble sarcophagus, which con- tained the remains of Ipsalanti, and was erected to this hero by his brothers. The house and the square where King Otho lived are insigni- ficant. Another of the houses, remaining from the time of the Turks, interested us more. It was only held together by a miracle. The pillars and trellis of the projecting balcony of the first floor (a kind of architecture we saw in perfection later at Smyrna) were rotten and crumbling, yet the appearance of these odd shapes and brilliant colouriag was picturesque, and already realized my expectations ; but how much more was my fancy excited when, from one of the narrow openings, I saw a beautiful lady looking out, clothed in a black European dress ! A thin man, in an ordi- nary coat, stood behind her. From whence these 102 ON THE WING, dream-like appearances came 'remained unex- plained. An English couple alone could have had the idea of burying themselves amidst these ruins ! Upon one of the -walls of the fortress, immedi- ately by the sea, stands a fine, three-hundred- years' old date palm-tree, whose imposing height, however, cannot display itself fully, because a great part of the slender stem is buried in the earth. At our desire to obtain some of the fruit which grew on the crown, a tall Greek, in ample blue trousers, climbed the tree with great celerity and distributed the green dates amongst the surround- ing people; although the climate is so beautiful, the fruit was not quite ripe, and fell uselessly to the ground. Close to the palm is a beautiftil Turkish well in ■ the wall of the fortress, with texts from the Koran, which the religious minds of the Mahometans place everywhere. We were constrained to ad- mire their talent in finding beautiful situations A LAND JOURNEY THE0T7GH GEEECE. 103 for the wells, such as this, at .the foot of the palm-tree: the view of the gulf is so very fine. We returned to the quay, rowed on board the ' Vulcan ' and said adieu to Napoli di Eomania, in order to steer towards Piraeus. 104 CHAPTEE IV. ATHENS. 14tli September, 1850. At five o'clock in the morning, I was awoke ia my little cabin by the cry, " Athens is in sight." As with the crusaders, at the first view of Jeru- salem, so it was with us, — aU rushed to the upper deck of the ship, in order to greet the priQoipal goal of our journey from afar. Curiosity and joy were depicted on every countenance, and the scruti- niziug glance took in everything. The azure blue waves of the foaming sea played on the broad yellow shore, sometimes rising higher and some- times on a level with the sea. The plain extended ATHENS. 105 without vegetation, but with some grandeur, until at length it was enclosed by a semicircle of sky- high mountains. At the end of this plain we saw Athens, like a white dot. Behind this, the Hyinettus, the Acro- polis, and the other historically remarkable heights, and still further on, the Penthelieon. The view was by no means so fairy-like as that of Patras, but severe and bare. It was the picture of the past which stirred the remembrance of great events. Our ship had approached the shore, upon which we were shown a heap of stones as the grave of Themistocles. Suddenly we turned and ran into a canal a few hundred feet broad, that wound through the low rocky shores, and showed no out- let until we arrived at a broad basin of water and entered the beautiful Piraeus. A semicircle of newly-built houses surrounds the harbour, in which anchored a tolerably large num- ber of ships. Both on the quay and on the waters there is a bustle of life, — a sight which is very 106 ON THE WING. pleasing, -when one reflects, that only a few years ago, a few solitary houses stood on these shores, and the harbour was empty of ships. The suburbs are still barren and dead. We found two French Lloyd steamers, and a French squadron, led by the frigate of an Admiral. As at Patras, we were again surrounded after we had anchored, by a great number of boats, with .the single lateen sail, steered with great skill by one sailor, who turned it now to the right, now to the left, and shot along with the speed of an arrow. These pretty little vessels are ornaments to the harbour. A boat was sent to ask permission to land, and we were then greeted by Count J., the Austrian Charge d'Affaires. Soon affceir him appeared General G., the King's Chamberlain, accom- panied by Captain M., a native of Trieste, who, during our stay at Athens, wa.s appointed to attend us. Both of these gentlemen invited us to take up ATHENS. 107 ^our abode in the King's Castle, — an invitation that we accepted with thanks. We therefore, after having a little arranged our dress, left the beloved ' Vulcan ' for a few days. On the quay we were met by a carriage and four, belonging to the Queen. It was the first equipage we had seen for a long time. Modern blue liveries, great Mecklen- burg horses, and an elegant barouche, did very well together; but made a strange contrast with the wild surroundings. "We sprang in, full of fiery enthusiasm, and upon soft feather-cushions drove along the famous road from Piraeus to Athens, — a good broad way, which took us three-quarters of an hour. The fearful dust was our only annoyance. The town, since our entrance into Piraeus, had vanished from our view, and it was only on quitting an olive-grove, through which we drove, that it again appeared in sight. This grove is famed throughout the country for its fruit and size ; but this year it was in a bad condition, for the trees had suifered from the last 108 05r THE WING. winter's severe cold, and they can only hope, in a few years, to see th.em again fully recoyered. Every now and then we passed an inn by the road- side; before these, most interesting groups were to be seen ; here, too, we met some trains of asses and mules, and even a few bad carriages. Near Piraeus there are still remains of the ancient Greek fortifications of Athens. Viueyards and olives grow there. The thickets become thinner, and the impression is homely and grandiose at the same time. "We went over a plain on which the famous battle with the Turks took place, and which is ornamented by a monument. At last the town, so renowned in history, and about which fancy is busy with her many recollec- tions, was to be seen. Above everything else, the eye is arrested by a mighty rock, bearing an un- rivalled crown on its marble base, i. e. the Acro- polis, with its richly columned temple and its hundred remembrances of the great past, proudly looking down ; and as from the features of a man ATHENS. 109 we can trace his soul, so this speaks of the great- ness of the times in which it rose. In the plain to our right we sayf, in its beautiful .artistic symmetiy, the temple of Theseus, whose yellow marble shone Kke dull gold. Before us lay the town, whose circumference is not very great ; it is traversed by a long unpaved street, which ends with the palace, situated on an elevation. This street, which at the beginning was composed of miserable-looking houses, only assumes a more town-like and better appearance in the neighbour- hood of the royal palace ; but even its very en- trance is adorned by a majestic palm-tree. The metropolitan church, also, which is built in the Byzantine style, is- remarkable for its typical ap- pearance, and reminds one of the ancient Christian times. It rises scarcely twenty ^four feet from the ground, and is of narrow circumference, contrasting strangely with the King's palace. Perhaps, as in Hebraic story, it is left to the successor of the first king to build a worthy temple to the Lord, whilst 110 ON THE WING. the present ruler, Kke David, has only to care for his own shelter below. The .houses are like those of Patras, only they are furnished somewhat more with the necessaries of cultivated life. The lower storey is chiefly employed for shops. Life becomes more and more bustling the nearer one approaches to the " Grande Place,'''' in which the royal palace stands upon a height. On the left side a Triestiae has built a beautifal house in the Grecian style ; the right side is unbuilt upon, and leaves open a view of the new part of the iown, in which there are several very fair houses. In the distance the sea sparkles, and on a clear day the magnificent pillars of the Temple of Jupiter are reflected ui it. In the " Place " itself, large regular plantations of cactus, aloes, and cypresses axe laid out, in the middle of which a road leads to the broad marble steps of the Palace. Eight and left are alleys with roads. These plantations are formed in unison with the architectural lines of the Palace, which stands there in the simple unadorned ATHENS. Ill Grecian style ; the pure white marble of the country shining on the walls, windows, balconies, and terraces, takes the place of other ornaments. The whole building is a long quadrangle in the part towards the town; a balcony, supported on Doric pillars, is over the entrance, and from this a magnificent marble staircase leads to the upper storey. Upon the side next to the sea is a terrace, also supported by pillars, which forms an open path to the level ground ; from this broad steps lead down to the streets. On the other side lie the pleasure-gardens of the Queen, in all the luxu- riance of Southern growth. Behind, towards the mountains, hangs again a balcony over the back entrance, with a descending winding staircase of bronze and marble. As the outside of the palace is not ornamented, it has, unfortunately, from a distance rather the appearance of a barrack, which the richness of the material softens when you approach. In every case, however, it is much too large for the little 112 ON THE WINGf. town, nay more, for the little country. One re- marks immediately the governing spirit of King Louis of Bavaria, who did. not regulate Ms build- ings by necessity, but according to his ideas of what was suitable; so the Grecian kingdom, its capital, its court, and its dynasty, must grow to fill this Palace. The interior is magiiificent ; a lordly thi-one-room for the King, a siioilar one for the Queen, great dining-rooms painted in " fresco," enormous ball-rooms glittering with gilding, draw- ing-rooms and rooms for strangers, open upon the astonished eye. The whole is in excellent taste and fitted up with chandeliers and silver plate in the Grecian style. There is an attraction in these rooms, particularly in those of the Queen, from the feeling that here an amiable spirit presides, which surrounds not only the palace but the country by its influence. "We only saw these beautiful apart- ments in the course of our stay, and were first conducted into the rooms appointed for us, where we awaited an audience of the Queen. The win- ATHENS. 113 doAVS opened upon the garden towards the sea, but a corner room afforded me also a view of the town and the Acropolis. One can imagine nothing more interesting and -beautiful than the look-out from these heights upon the picturesque surroundings, with their monu- ments. The clear atmosphere of the South renders every outline distinct and sharp, and it seems as if Nature had wished to show how noble forms, though unaccompanied by luxuriant plenty, and only crowned by works of art, can lay hold of the soul. These regions are to be compared to lofty beauties, whilst the lovely dales of our dear Germany produce a more homely, kindly im- pression. The Queen's garden is remarkable for the endeavour to unite southern and northern ,;sregetation in beautiful groups, and makes an excellent foreground to the view, and a pictu- resque contrast to the light yellow bare outline which the sea bounds. After our luggage had arrived from Pireeus, we dressed ourselves in I 114 ON THE WING. our uniforms, and were conducted to the Queen Eegent. The ladies of the Court stood in the tastefully- adorned throne-room. Here the eompanions of our journey remained. My brother and I were led into the next room, where the Queen received us in an elegant morning toilet. She is of middle height, and unites dignity and amiability in a rare degree. Her features express wit and strength of character. Her speech is amiable and " spirituelle," and rises to enthusiasm when the conversation relates to her dear HeUas. She is the true mother of her people ; for only a mother can talk with so much interest of each peculiarity of her children. The Queen enjoys — and deservedly so — the love of her people, and is received with enthusiasm wherever she goes. We heard her firm and pru- dent government spoken of with admiration in every quarter. I should not have thought that a German princess, accustomed to the pleasant comforts of ATHENS. 115 her native land, could have so entered into the Grecian customs, or have spoken the language with such perfection. After a quarter of an hour's conversation the Queen took us into the throne- room and presented us to her ladies, and I, also, introduced my fellow-travellers. The lady-chamberlain is one of the few Germans in high position at the Court. She does honour to her nation by her agreeable manners and lively wit. Besides her, the " Basilissa," as the Queen is called in this country, has two Greek ladies of the bed- chamber. Mademoiselle Photami M. and Mademoi- selle Penelope L. These are dressed Grecian fashion, and confirm the far-famed beauty of their country- women. They spoke French tolerably well, and did not appear to be ill-educated. After inviting us for a ride at five o'clock, the Queen left us. The rest of the courtiers were very insignificant, and I will only mention the chamberlain, General G., who, as in most courts, is a kind of factotum. He is one of the few in whom thp King has entire I 2 116 ON THE WING. confidence, and in the fatal Eev^lution he showed his strength of character. The history of his past is somewhat obscure, and there are malicious stories afloat which describe him as having some taste for robber Hfe. His exterior corresponds with this last supposition. He has a gloomy — somewhat lowering, countenance. His complexion and hair are extraordinarily dark, so that he gains much from the becoming Grecian attire. At five o'clock we assembled in a small cabiaet, looking towards the sea. The Queen descended the broad marble steps, and sprang ,with great agility on a Turkish horse which awaited her. We fol- lowed her example, and now dashed by the guards of the palace at full gallop, over the castle square, beneath a triumphal arch of myrtfe prepared for the morrow's anniversary of the Eevolution, down the long streets to the Theseum. The Queen wished to give us a glimpse of all the curiosities of Athens. In tiie streets she was hailed with cries- of joy, and everybody greeted ATHENS. 117 her with expressions of respect. The Queen on horseback is a truly pleasant agreeable sight. She rides splendidly, has a firm seat, and guides her horse at full gallop over places which many of our famous riders would scarcely pass at a foot's pace. The horses of the Grecian Court are mostly from the Asiatic mountains, and clatter like chamois oyer dizzy heights : when they cannot plant their hoofs firmly, they slide upon their hind legs down steep rocky flats without falling. The Queen makes her longest journeys on horseback, for an expedi- tion in a carriage is never dreamed of. The temple of Theseus is one of the best pre- served monuments in Gi^eece, and perhaps, one of the most beautiful of antiquity. It is tolerably large ; all its pillars, the greater part of the inner wall, and the roof still exist. The marble of which it is built was formerly white, but through time and weather, had become stained of a beautiful yellow tint, which suited it well. The style is simple and pure. This work of art in particular. 118 ON THE WING. is shown oflf by the open space in which it stands. Unfortunately, the traces of the unsparing Turkish bullets are to be seen on the walls* and columns. Amongst the metopes there are only a few bas- reliefs, and these not well preservfed. It is supposed that they represent the deeds of Theseus. The inner room of the temple is entirely surrounded with walls, whilst, in the olden days, there existed but tliree. The fourth side was buUt, when this noble temple was used as a church by the Christians. After a time, all the church furniture was again cleared out, and the interior is now filled with treasures of art, dug up from the ground. On account of the want of space ht)wever, these are heaped carelessly one on the other. It seems in- congruous to us, to see amidst the relics of the heathen gods and goddesses, the form of our Saviour. The principal entrance from the town side is now closed. In the side wall, lying towards the Acropolis, a door was opened by a Grecian archaeo- logist, who received the Queen atid ourselves. ATHENS. 119 We could only take a cursory glance at the treasures of the interior, but I will enumerate them later, after a more careful inspection. From hence we followed the Queen through the narrow back streets of Athens, between the most varied ob- stacles, and at full gallop, to the Temple of the "Winds. It is built in an octagon shape, and of fi-ee- stone, on which the winds are represented beneath the roof in a bas-relief. A single door leads into the interior, where there are no windows. The ground upon which this building stands has risen six feet in depth, which proved to us how choked up old Athens is. The ruins of an aqueduct led to this interesting temple, of which I shall also have an opportunity of speaking further on. We now came to the so-called Lantern of Diogenes, really the monument of Lysicrates. It is a not very broad tower twelve feet high, whose roof, ornamented with beautiful but small bas- reliefs, rests upon four or five low columns. It may have been open to the air at some time. The 120 ON THE WING. summit of tlie roof forms a bouquet-shaped knob, carved like dolphins. In the newly-built inner columned room there appears to have formerly existed a bust or statuette. The whole is very much ornamented, and the work fine. From this our way led to the Areopagus and the Pnyx. These are great masses of rock in which we could still see the traces of steps. In this rock they show a prison-like cell, worked out in the stone — said to be the grave of Socrates, for which there is not the slightest foundation. "We looked at the market gate, a portico on four columns. It has gained this name vn'ongly, from a great stone which is placed near it, and on which in Hadrian's reign the market prices were carved. This was a custom in old times, and they are frequently to be found near gateways. We further visited the arch of Hadrian, the remains of the temple of Jupiter, the grave of Philopappus, and the spot where the gardens of Plato once were. The colonnade of Hadrian consisted of six stand- ATHENS. 121 ing Eoman pillars, before a freestone wall, against wMcli rested Lnttresses unituig it to the other walls ; a seventh column stood alone ; it appears that the six others were originally furnished with statues. On the stone wall were the remains of a Christian fresco painting, for here also had been a church. Before the pillars a wall is built, and within this enclosed spot are collected some more antiquities which have been found. The gate of Hadrian, in the neiglibourhood of the temple of Jupiter, is a great wide arch, whose Eoman origin is to be traced, and to which a second gate, supported on four columns, serves as a foundation. This beautiful work of art is thrown in the shade by the magnificence and size of the columns of the temple of Jupiter. Their height may be about one hundred and twenty feet, and the circumference exceeds the height : in spite of these dimensions, they have a beau- tiful and perfect regularity. There are fifteen. Twelve of these stand in a group together, 122 ON THE WING. whilst three stand a little distance off. The larger group is only bound tiogether by occa- sional great stones, otherwise there is nothing left of the roof. Upon one of the capitals of the pUlars are to be seen the remains of a stone hut which served as a dwelling to a fanatical ascetic Dervish for twenty years, during which time he nevej descended upon earth, but remained like a stork perched in those high regions, and drew up his frugal meal by means of a rope. At his feet, meanwhile, events were following one another, and the old gentleman must have been a little surprised when the victorious rajahs — ^the companions of his fatp, disappeared, and he remained as the solitary servant of the Crescent in Athens — the only voice of the Prophet in the wilderness. The appearance of the temple of Jupiter must have been marvellous. In the neighbourhood of the rocks is a stream in which Calliope, the beauti- ful Muse, was wont to bathe ; therefore this wildly ATHENS. 123 romantic water is called after her name. The antique loveliness of the place has vanished, and there exist now only the bare rocks between which the water flows. The monument of Philopappus lies upon a high hill, some distance from the town, and near the sea. It is an umbrella-like, somewhat crumbled, wall of freestone, on the lower side of which is found a very much injured bas-relief representing the tri- umphal procession of a Roman Emperor. Over these are columns between which are sitting figures much mutilated. The height upon which this building stands is called the mountain of Musseus, and is named after this Grecian poet. From the garden of Plato, on the opposite side, one sees more of the raised place, which is croAvned by a small chapel. Between the vineyards and the promenade of Athens — a broad avenue with very weakly -looking trees, we came back after sunset to the palace, and after a marvellously speedy toilet of the ladies, we 124 ON THE "WING. assembled to eat our dinner. All the ministers and the officers of the Court were round the table. The Queen was gracious enough to present to me all the ministers of the state. A few of these gentlemen had an European air, and were able to speak either French or Italian, which was a great comfort to me, for I hate making myself understood thi'ough an interpreter. One is always taken in in this kind of conversation, and cannot tell how the spirit of the words is rendered in the other language. But with the minister of the interior, father of the beautiful Eulalia, of Corinth, I was obliged to bring ' in the help of another person. This gentleman wore the ordinary costume of the country, and is of an advanced >age. His hand appeared to me more fitted to wield the sword or the plough, than the pen of an administrator. But in the primitive condition of the country the rough nature may be the best. It would, however, be a good thing if the sheathed sword of the ATHENS. 125 Palikaren were drawn again to free tlie land from tlie banditti. But where, then, would be the last remnants of romance ? Greece, without- robbers, would be Switzerland without mountains ! It is so pleasant when one returns home, to be able to relate at the social tea-table that one has wandered through the most frightful regions, and : seen the rocks down which the blood of the unlucky victims has. trickled ! So long as a personal ac- quaintance has not been made with these heroes of romance, the race of' travellers is egotistical enough to take a secret pleasure and shudder of delight in wandering over the ill-famed neighbourhood. Therefore, let us leave cobwebs over the rusty- swords, and thank the Government for the preser- vation, past and future, of the robber bands ! Perhaps even one of the dignified men who sat at table might furnish materials for a romance of the Elephts. The dinner was served quickly and elegantly, the food was excellent, and our appetite equally so 126 ON THE WING. after tlie long ride. Upon the walls of the dining- room fruits, game, and fish were painted in ara- besque. After dinner our amiable hostess left us, and we were able to enjoy a refreshing repose. The following day was Sunday, and we had an opportunity of hearing Mass in the King's chapel at eight o'clock. Immediately after the Latin ser- vice, everything that had served for the observances of our Church was moved away, and the Queen's pastor with his simple rites stepped in. Some- times, on public festivals, the royal pair attend the Greek Church. In order to know the customs of a country, and particularly those of a town, nothing better can be wished for than the celebration of a public feast. This fell to our lot to-day. On the 16th of September (though according to the Greek calendar it is on the 3rd), Toung Hellas keeps the anniversary of the Eevolution on that day. When we went into the principg,! streets from the palace, the Queen had already driven through ATHENS. 127 the triumphal arch of myrtle and had reached the cathedral, where a solemn prayer was the chief object of the feast. The streets were lined with rows of Grecian troops. Their aspect was unmili- tary ; we saw in them how the dress of European soldiers had cramped the free movements of this people. The stiff stocks, the rouhd adorned shako, gave a sickly look to the sons of the Southern mountains. A man who is accustomed to the fluttering jerkin and the folded fustanella, must feel very uncomfortable, beneath the Grecian sun, in the buttoned-up cloth coat and the long inex- pressibles. Thus the youths of Hellas are abandoning the picturesque costume of their country, in order to turn themselves into Marionettes, and become more like our national guard. Yet European civiKzation requires this, and the enthusiastic admirer of beauty in the nineteenth century must be silent. The battalion, in the national dress, looked very beautiful and warlike, and carried its. colours with 128 ON THE WING. the same magnificence as the troops we had already admired at Patras. The people circulated in a merry crowd between the ranks, sometimes in European dresses, some- times in their own bright coloufg. The balconies were adorned most beautifully, and here we saw matrons and maidens most gorgeously attired. From their sparkling eyes and regular features we could easily recognize the mixture of southern Sclayonic and ancient Greek blood. Amongst the costumes of the women, those of the Hydriots were new to us. Instead of the red fez, the charming islanders wore a thin gauzy yeil, which fell in artis- tic folds over their heads, necks, and bosoms. The dresses are, like those of their sisters on the conti- nent, made out of brilliant-coloured silk stuffs. In spite of the importance of the day, people were very quiet. No enthusiastic hurrahs, not even any curiosity for sight-seeing was to be remarked. It seemed rather as if the people only came from habit. ATHENS. 129 After we had contemplated this cheerful glitter of the houses, heightened by the glowing sun, we -betook ourselves to a cathedral, suitable in size to a lilliputian capital. At the door a rush of hot air met us, and our ears were greeted with the monotonous song of the Grreek priests. In the midst of these latter sat the Archiman- drite, a worthy figure of past times, with a wavy snow-white beard. On the right side of the church, before a throne- chair, stood the Queen-Kegent, like a marble statue, in rich fur-trimmed habiliments. There was some- thing artistic in the fancy of this dress, and it was cut in an Oriental pattern. As we had taken up our place just opposite the colunmed arches of a somewhat raised dais, we could conterctplate the dignified lady at our leisure. Her figure swam in a gold sea of rich embroidery ; from her dark-brown hair sparkled diamonds ; her neck was also covered with these stones ; but the K 130 ON THE WING. expression of ter ootmtenance and her wliole bear- ing was cold and immovable, — there was an ex- pression almost of displeasure on her usually- amiable cheerful features. The poor lady may- well have thought how her rising throne, a few years before, had been branded on this horrible 3rd of September. She could picture in recollec- tion the image of the screaming mob and the yielding counsellors, and now she was obliged to pray- for the preservation of institutions which had plunged her beloved HeUas in confusion. She was pressing her lips firmly together, instead of opening them in prayer. At the end of the hymn we left the gloomy vault, that we might see the Queen drive by. I had thought that on this occasion there would have been a characteristic, if not a magnificent, pro- cession, instead of which two Bavarian carriages and four drove past, in which the Queen, -vnth a part of her suite, was almost lost from sight. A few single richly-dressed adjutants and a troop of ATHENS. 131 lancers surrounded the carriage, -and they all dis- appeared rapidly from the cmious gaze. The Queen took off her oppressive robes, and we then assembled for breakfast in a garden pavilion. It consisted of a wooden trellis with a light roof, and is raised over a fine mosaic, dug out of that very spot, and said to be the largest known. It is extraordinarily well preserved, and appears, from the arabesque and the form, to have been found in ah ancient bath-room. As we sat down to an ex- cellent breakfast, the Queen remarked that the number was thirteen. A small table was imme- diately prepared in a corner of the pavilion, and the poor adjutant, who had been appointed as om- ^attendant, was obliged to sit down to it. This comical behaviour may be excused in this ordinarily sensible Queen for two reasons. Firstly, the Grecian people are so extraordinarily superstitious, it is not advisable to set yourself openly against these pecu- liarities. Secondly, a few years previously, a remarkable accident had happened at the court. K 2 132 ON THE WING. There were thirteen at dinner one day, and a short time afterwards one who had been of the circle at table died. A few days later, the company were again assembled, and there was 'the same ominous number. A young Englishman, who had been present at both meals, wondered, jokingly, who would be the victim this time. A short time after the young Briton was a corpse. After luncheon, the Queen ordered a little pony- carriage to be brought round, in which she drove out myself and my brother, and gave us an oppor- tunity of admiring her talent as a whip. The rest of the company followed on foot. "We were shown a small menagerie consisting of deer and gazelles. The Queen drove us to this through her garden, which is her greatest pleasure and pride. She laughingly calls it her little king- dom. Before she undertook the government of the larger one, this Athenian El Dorado was her principal amusement ; now, unfortunately, the gar- den has had to suffer by the weightier matters of ATHENS. 133 business. The grounds are lard out in English iaste, Grerman plants are raised and nursed with care between the palms and orange trees of the country. The view from some parts oyer the remains of old Greek art is very fine, and could not well be more beautiful. AH that is wanting are shady spots and green lawns, in order to make the garden perfect. The first fault will be rectified by time, for the whole has only been made a few years. On the higher ground there already stands a group of trees, under whose shadow the royal couple are wont to breakfast. For the second deficiency there is less hope, — the rays of the sun are too powerful to permit the luxuriant growth of the grass. In Athens however, this garden is a wonder, — it is the only point where the fresh green of foliage and a variety of blooming flowers are to be seen. . For us, who came from a cooler land, the growths of the South were particularly interesting. The multitude of feathery palms and the fleshy aloes 134 ON THE WING. were new to us. These last-named plants look particularly well, springing out of the snow-white marble vases standing on the broad, even steps which lead from the left side of the palace down from terrace to terrace, into the garden. The first terrace, being broader than the others, is reserved for a promenade under colonnades. The second lies somewhat lower, and is laid out with very beautiful beds of flowers between orange trees. These, how- ever, suff'ered so severely in the last winter from the cold, that they were obliged to he cut down to the ground ; but the Southern growtli is so quick and strong that they have already reached the height of from four to five feet. The crop, notwithstanding, is delayed for several years. The garden is of a fair size, and a few very beautiful antiquities have been found during its construction, which are kept in one part. A few years ago they lighted upon a well-preserved, ancient aqueduct, which they now usG to bring the water necessary for the plants. They also believe tlioy have found the place where ATHENS. 13-5 Socrates used to teach. The course of centuries coiLTerts the school-place of the ancient philosopher into an EngUsh park ! As the gloTving mid-day sun soon drove us out of the gardens, it was proposed to us to visit the King and Queen's apartments. These united mag- nificence with comfort, and I found many clever ideas, and pretty fresco paintings .among the Greek -ornaments j but everywhere Munich taste shone conspicuous ; and indeed, in this hot climate, this -manner of building is of great use. In the King's studio, under the ceiling, we saw the famous men of old Greece. In one corner stood a plaster cast of the Apollo *of Belvedere, as a specimen of ancient art. In ancither room we saw busts of the heroes of modern Grecian history. On the walls hung two great oil paintings by the Munich painter Hesz, representing the entrance of the King into NaupKa and Athens. The pictures are powerfully executed, and contain many of the interesting portraits of the country. In this room 136 ON THE WING. there are, as yet, no specimens of modern native art, and it -would be difficult now in Greece to find such. The broad steps which lead to this room are, as has already been mentioned, adorned with bronze and white marble from Penthelicon — a noble work. These stone steps are fixed so firmly that the double staircase along the wall is without supporting columns. The Queen related to us, that it required a long time, and a great deal of trouble before they could find blocks of marble so entirely without flaw, as to be able to venture upon this masterpiece. This "truly magnificent flight of steps leads into a hall immediately by the great entrance in the middle of the palace. The most beautiful rooms of the build^ing are imdoubt- edly the two great ball-rooms in the entresol. They reach through all the storeys to the top of the castle. The principal coloifr is red, adorned Avith rich gold ornaments. The- furniture corre- sponds with th(' Avails and the ceiling, and is so ATHENS. 137 placed that there still remains room for dancirtg. A painter was just busied filling the upper part of one of the rooms with mythological figures. "When the heavy chandelier, and rich walls glow in a thousand coloured lights, and the beautiful embroidered oriental dresses mo^e to and fro to the melody of the dance, the sight must be truly fairy-like. These feasts are famed among all strangers as very splendid and tasteful. Whether these festivi- ties are consistent with the customs and the revenues of the country, I do not presume to judge. From good authority I was assured that the Grecian people loved the munificence and glitter of the throne. The Queen, who showed us the curiosities of her country, in such a graceful, amiable manner, invited us that afternoon to take a drive to the far-famed Eleusis. The whole company were dis- tributed in two roomy comfortable carriages, and so we rolled from the castle throtigh a low part of 138 ON XHE wma. the town, and soon reached the sacred road vhich, in the time of the ancient Greeks, led to the Temple of the Unknown God. At first we drove through olive-trees and vine- yards, but soon came to a romantic wild desert, and had to pass through a narrow valley to reach the other side of the mountain, chain, where lies the placid bosom of the sea, and 'at the end of the valley was Eleusis. To the right and left of the road were scattered large pieces of rock, here and there were groups of pines, whose summits were crowned with a lovelier green than the foliage of our trees. Except several slow crawling tprtoises, we saw no signs of animal life, but in the middle of the desert we came upon the ruined nunnery of Daphne. A small part of the strong European outer walls of the Church and the miserable huts of the nuns are still standing. Originally a castle was built here by the family Laroche, of the Dukes of Athens. The descendants of Laroche still exist in Bavaria. ATHENS. ] 39 The walls exhibit distinctly a Southern architecture. Afterwards the castle was turned into a convent, and a church was built still later in the Byzantiae style. In the cupola is a large mosaic — a head of our Saviour of a typical nature. As the church is devoted to the Greek service, a gilt screen is natu- rally to be seen between the congregation and the altar. The long, thick candles, ia tall upright candlesticks, throw a dim light on the great Testa- ments, lyiag open on- separate desks, and upon the walls black with smoke. The quiet and calm of the House of God gave a solemn air to the whole. In a side chapel there are still some monuments on which the arms of the Laroches are carved on the marble. Thus, in the neighbourhood of Athens, one finds the histories of all periods immortalized by the most remarkable recollections. In the court of the convent there are still to be seen some remains of Gothic ornamentation. The walls are so massive, that it looks as if these Dukes 140 ON THE WING. had not felt themselves very secure. "We had scarcely climbed round the ruined walls when some life began to appear in the shape of several black horrible witch-like figures, clothed in a few rags with tangled grey hair and withered limbs. They belonged entirely to the bygone .ages of the inani- mate ruins around us. Cauldrons and brooms were all that were wanting to complete the picture. These were the pious Sisters of Daphne, who were just in the act of strewing Turkish maize and other grain on the floor to dry. About their holiness there is not very much to be said, at least such is the opinion of the Archbishop of Athens, their spiritual Superior. In every case their appearance is not only repulsive, but unseemly, and they appear to be rather a troup of beggars than nuns. We left the ruins after these black hobgoblins had kissed the Queen's gracious hands, screeching blessings. We were soon at the end of the valley, and our eyes rested with pleasure upon the sea, the village of Elcusis and the high beautifully-formed mouu- ATHENS. 141 tains. We could now see traces of a second road cleft in the rocks, for the path lies on a narrow shelf between the sea and the high rocks. It is observable, here, aa in the Acropolis, and many other places in Grreece, that the ancients cut ruts in the stone, and that the wheels, which were all of the same breadth, ran in these. So that the horses were obliged to go along on the bare rocks. Still more iateresting than these remains of the road, are the soft- water lakes, which are just to the right of the track, whilst on the left it is washed by the waves of the sea. These small lakes are also of ancient date, their depth is not greater than five feet, they lie rather higher than the sea iato which they flow down under the road. This is only sepa- rated from the sea by a very low wall. It appears that the object of these lakes was the preservation of fish ; the supply comes probably from sub- terraneous sources. At the entrance of Eleusis the Queen stopped, and we got out. We first visited -an extraordinarily 142 ON THE "WING. low Greek chapel, wMch was built out of the ruins of the famous Temple of the "TTnknown God." In the iaterior of this we found several pieces of old statues and inscriptions of great iaterest for any archeologist who understood these characters. As we were busy admiring these ruins of former times, the inhabitants of the village above us streamed down and surrounded the beloved Basi- lissa, who greeted them with kindly words in the soft Grecian tongue. It is a charming custom of the royal pair to show themseltes amongst their villagers. The whole crowd go out to meet them, rejoicing, and letting their cries of "Zito" be heard in the air. The inhabitants of this place, particularly the wo- men, were dressed quite differently from those near Athens; I might say more poetically and tastefully. They wear long, dark-coloured dresses, and over these a white cloak, with black ttissels, hangs down to their knees. Their bodices are richly embroi- dered. Their heads and necks are hidden by a ATHENS. 143 ■white veil, long twists of which hang over their shoulders down to the ground. Jhe abundance of their hair is the pride of these women. They help themselves artfully by twisting brown wool in it. The maidens wear, instead of the veil, their dowry on their heads, consisting of a helmet-sort of cap, with a band and tassel composed of silver and gold coins, often a very interesting little collection. Turkish, Grecian, Austrian and Spanish gold pieces are to be found in every variety. This very ori- ginal headdress, however, becomes the serious Oriental cast of features very well. A great number of the women wear golden rings with the most beautiful antique cameos, which they find in the fields between the clods of earth. We wandered now, followed by the whole crowd, ■on the rocky hill which formed the foundation of the temple. Only a few ruined walls and pieces of marble pillars are now to be found of the famous sanctuary, in which the Eleusinian Mysteries were celebrated, and one forms the wish that Ceres 144 ON THE WING. migM come again to this neighbourliood and seek her children, and, if she should come, that for a second time might be sung — " TJnd auf ihrem Pfad begriisste Irrend nact des Kindes Spur, Ceres die verlass'ne Kiiste ; Aoli ! da griinte keine Plur ! Dass sie hier vertraulicli weile, 1st kein, Obdach ikr gewakrt ; Keines Tempels keine Saiile Zeuget dass man Grotter ehrt." So the hand of time passes over the most famous objects: and often the poem of Eiiokart has come into my mind in Greece, which teUs of the valley where there first existed a town, then a heap of ruins, fields and sea, and lastly, k town again. It was a painful thought to us the Youth of modern times, whilst scrambling over the broken stones, put together long ago with great labour by the most civilized people of the world, in order to create a chef-d'oeuvre for eternity, to refliect that here the Youth of ancient times once celebrated the mystic rites of Ceres ! ATHENS. 145 "We were now conducted to two houses of the Inhabitants of the country, in which we saw the most magnificent mosaics, representing children at play and the wallowing of swine. Over one of these runs the wall of the house. Thus these fine works were given up to destruction by ignorant men, though with the slightest care they might have been preserved. Unhappily, the King, who has the best possible will to preserve these trea- sures, has not the power to oomm;aud that this wish should be carried out. As we left the second house, the women and maidens of Eleusis formed a semicircle before the Queen, and began to sing, to a rather monotonous melody, a hastily improvised song, to which, hold- ing their arms crossed, they danced a solemn swinging dance. Slowly they bowed themselves, with one step forwards, and then two small steps backwards, and after each verse they loiocked with the heel of their sandals upon the hard ground. In this dance we recognized the customs of the old 146 ON THE "WING. Ilellenes, as we see tliem representBd upon the vases of ancient Greece, and an interesting, beautiful sight it was. The Queen told me that the song related to her presence. In the first words they expressed their joy that we strangers brou:ght news of the approaching arrival of the King; in the second, the Basilissa was compared to an orange-tree, at whose feet a fresh stream sprang. The people seem to have a peculiar facility in these impro- visations. Another ancient Greek pier stretched into the sea at the foot of the little town. It is distin- guished by its peculiarly large freestones. The Queen invited us to take some refreshment, which proposition we thankfully accepted. It was a goMer champetre. They hastily brought a miser- able table and a few camp-stools. A box, which contained the much- desired provisions, was opened, and we employed ourselves with the cold meat, eggs, and wine, particularly that of the world- renowned Eleusis. Thus it is with human beings : ATHENS. 147 mind, heart, and stomach are, unfortunately, a necessary triumvirate, which, in this poor life on earth, can never be separated ! After the short meal, the men of Eleusis, not wishing to be outdone by their wives, led another ^danee similar to that of the women, only more lively and wild. The best dancer of the district led the maze, and made very droll high leaps, similar to those of a chamois, and reminding one ,of the ancient Bacchanalian demeanour. After we had admired this for some time, the Queen- collected round her the children of the village, asked them a few questions in a pleasant tone, and divided amongst them the eggs that were left over from the meal. It was a pretty picture to see the tender woman amidst the fresh noisy children. All pressed around her. Each wishdd to have a gift. The boisterous she waved mildly back with her hand, but amongst the more modest she divided them cheerfully. What a screaming and jubilee it was ! She knows well how to win the hearts of L 2 148 ON THE WING. her people by the simplest m^ans. The whole population, young and old, dashed after the car- riage, and the Queen left the interesting spot, amidst loudly resounding cries of joy. "Zito Basilissa ! " the more enthusiastic of the youths ran shouting after her for some time. It is easily to be seen that it is the Queen who supports the newly-established throne of Greeee, by her personal influence oyer the affections of her people. As we drove through the vineyards, the few inhabitants threw into the carriage the finest grapes they possessed, which were accepted gratefully ; and this sign of aifection was .not, as with us, rewarded with gold. The frie.ndly nod of the Queen was the peasant's highest reward. The people in Greece are thorough royalists, and know the value of princely protection and graciousness, without the need of proving it to them by pay- ment. Late in the evening we retuimed to Athens by the brilliant starlight. ATHENS. 149 The following morning we took breakfast in our rooms, and at nine o'clock were taken to the King's stables ; they are roomy and clean, and contain a beautiful collection of Oriental horses. The finest of these were led out in the court before us. The King and Queen are very fond of riding lively animals. It is thought hon ton in Greece that the horses should be very frisky in starting, in order -to show off the riding of the King to the astonished people. The stud is taken care of by a former Bavarian officer, who appears to understand the art of riding very well. From hence we betook ourselves to the newly -built University, which is in the old Grecian style. The large, not yet finished, room is supported by beautiful pillars of white marble. The whole institution is only just com- menced; but they are endeavouring to perfect it; and the library, which consists chiefly of presents from the Continent and strangers, is not without importance. From this spark of new life we went back to the centre of old magnificence and grandeur 150 ON THE WING. — to tjie proud rock-built Acropolis, which sur- passes everything we have yet seen of ancient art. From the foot of the height to the gate of the outer wall the road goes over bare earth-embank- ments ; and it is, as usual in modern Greece, very bad. We were obliged to work our way through the dust with a great deal of trouble to where, before destructive Time had done his work, the ancient Greek mounted the marble steps to the seat of the gods. In the distance, the proud Propy- laeum beamed on the worshippers of the sublime Minerva like a temple of the .Sun in the blue ether. Zealously he winged his upward steps, and soon found himself in a wilderness of pillars, in which the works of a Phidias, like pearls of human art, gave him at once enthusiasm for his divinity, and admiration of the skill of man. He would contemplate the mild, serious features of the goddess, formed from the neighbouring stone-quarry of Penthelicon, whom his poetical mind had con- verted into his protectress. No still earnest prayers ATHENS. 151 of reverence and devotion to the highest Being ^could pass these lips. In their place shouts of joy- were required at the bringing the flower-crowned sacrifice, which was the expression of the poetic enjoyment of nature; it had, however, its end in self-praise. A Christian's awe for the great Creator of the world was only produced then — by God's in- comprehensible phenomena of nature, and by death ! The Acropolis was a diadem, with which proud humanity had decked its own glorious head; but this crown wanted the pure blessing of Redemp- tion ; the glitter of this vain ornament was destroyed, and the sensual spirit vanished before the thorns and crown of the Saviour, In this frame of mind the disciples united their artistic powers to decorate the cathedrals (instead of the pearls and jewels of ancient time) with the simple emblem of the cruci- fix. The glitter disappeared, the pearls were scat- tered by the fiight of time ; and yet one recognizes, by the remains, that the minds who created these works must have been great and „sublime. In the 152 ON THE WING. ruins there still lies a poetical charm — an irresis- tible power — which even flatters the self-love of a Christian of the nineteenth century. The soul is involuntarily filled with pride at the thought that these works were raised by men of like flesh and blood ; and, as we are not reminded by seeing the attributes of heathen worship in the broad quiet space, fancy has free play, and even Christian minds can rejoice in the monuments of old Hellas. We entered the gate of the outer wail. After we had pressed through it Ave came to a small watch-house, which, unfortunately, is partly built out of the remains of the art treasures. To the right and left lay fallen stones^ broken columns, and we passed through a door -like opening in the wall, Avithiu the boundaries of the magnificent Pro- pylseum. Even to this very day, the mighty steps are traceable which were said to have reached to the sea. On each side rose gigantic columns, which formed several entrance-halls to the real sanctua- ries. In tlio marble floor grooves had been cut in ATHENS. 153 such a manner that formerly they must have driven their chariots between the steps. The rows of columns are separated from the interior of the Acropolis by great walls of free- stone. In the middle is to be found a threefold entrance. To the right of the Propylseum, upon a projecting rock, stands the decorated Temple of "Victory, to which we directed our attention for the first time. Its dimensions are very exact, and in perfect symmetry. Four walls, adorned with Doric columns, formed the building, on one side of which a beautiful dome leads into the interior. Around the cornice run beautifully-sculptured bas-reliefs, on a very small scale. Owing to the open situa- tion of the temple, its background is the pure ether; and, being built in such small proportions, which of late have been restored, it has something extremely attractive about it. In the interior, lean- ing against the wall, we found a particularly fine bas-relief of the goddess Victory. The Athenians, in order to make sure of success, not only built 154 ON THE WING. this monument in her honour, but called it the Temple of the "Wingless Victory," meaning, that victory could not then leave them. We afterwards turned to the Ipft side of Propy- Iseum, where we found, on a crag of rock, a large apartment in which the Dukes of Athens dwelt in the middle ages. Now this room and the space immediately adjoining are used as a museum for the antiquities dug out of the ground. Here are piled up stone hands, feet, arms, and heads. Only a few of these were of great importance; but how gladly would we have taken the smallest bit of the most worthless statue as a remembrance ! This, however, as is natural, is strictly forbidden, for Greece has already been greatly robbed of its most beautiful statues and vases by European lovers of art. A few members of our company, notwithstanding, con- trived to conceal small marble bits of the pillars or wall, as a remembrance of the hi^orical place. What a pity it is that the Grecian government is ATHENS. 155 in want of money, and the nation in want of love for art ! otherwise all these treasures and the antiquities scattered in various parts might be collected and systematically arranged in a museum built for the purpose. Thus at least the shadows of the magnificent monuments of ancient Greece would be restored to us. One raises a clod, looks between the rubbish of centuries, and the form of a beautiful torso appears. Athens and Europe rejoice over the great discovery, and the torso keeps its gloomy place of honour amongst the other broken fragments. Wonderful stories are told of the newly discovered masterpiece, it is ascribed to a Phidias, it is praised in the art journals. The l)ad counterfeit in copper astonishes the gaze of the "curious outer world, whilst in the immediate neigh- "bourhood of the headless trunk the already long- found hands and feet are shown to astonished "travellers as unmeaning fragments. Could not a skilful ai'tist collect these various limbs, and unite them as a perfect statue of a bygone century, or, 156 ON THE WING. inspired by these beautiful models, produce this or that small portion that is wanting ? Or could not a clever architect throw himself into the spirit of these old works, and put together, with the correct eye of an artist, the various scattered fragments of pillars, and construct them into a whole? Unhap- pily, the means are wanting for si^ch a great under- taking ; and till now only a few jsmall experiments have been made, whose success, nevertheless, gives proof how great would be the reward of this magnificent, though difficult work. We wondered to see the richly-draped statue of a goddess, dislodged from her exalted position, rest- ing on the Acropolis, whilst her lovely head, dug out of the plain, was, perhaps, shown in the Temple of Theseus ; yet this may have come to pass in a very natural, although barbarous manner. The cruel Turk found this figure upon the long-be- sieged castle walls ; no inspiration seized him when contemplating it ; he had only di'awn the SAVord of the Proijhct for purposes of destruction, and ATHENS. 157 the iron hand of the barbarian 'soon did its work. The head which Phidias had inspired with life, and which, through his chisel, had attained eternal fame, was dashed from the dazzling neck, and rolled, with shouts of victory, over the rocks and plains of the conquered country. But these sacrifices to barbarism were not confined to the sons of Ma- homet ; the knights of Clxristian states knew how to take part in such amusements. It would be the duty, now, of the lovers of Art in the nine- teenth century to collect the scattered members of these gods, and bring them once more to the spot of their old fame, as otferings to their respective Muses. Yet this does not happen, and will not happen ; so the history of bygone ages teaches vs. Each period has its peculiar star in art, which attracts the admiration of mankind. The lesson given us by time is, therefore,, that these works are destroyed, and their ruins left to posterity, in order that future generations may conceive, learn, and create for themselves. 158 ON THE WING. Through the doors of the Propylaeum we stepped into a space strewn with stones — the peculiarly consecrated abode of the old gods. Here we found the great pedestal, marking the spot upon which the famed Miaerva had once stood. Here was to be distiaguished the temple of Erecthea ; here, the great masterpiece of Grecian architecture — the richly-columned gigantic Parthenon, ia which Phi- dias had once enthroned his Zeus formed of gold and ivory. To the left, on quitting the Parthenon, a number of exquisitely beautiful bas-reliefs, taken from the metopes of the Parthenon, rest against a wall of freestone. They represent a triumphal military procession, ia which the most marvellous figures are to be discovered; thay are among the finest productions of ancient art. Yet the prin- cipal treasures amongst these bas-reliefs Lord Elgin, the representative of his merchant nation, has taken to London to the British Museum; but, in grati- tude for the successful robbery, he has buHt poor Athens a miserable clock-tower ! As far as the ATHENS. 159 great claws of the leopard stretch, so far he inflicts wounds, in order to reach the heart's blood; and the spoils ia his den at home show that the leo- pard's claws are long ! Our feelings of enthusiasm increased as we ap- proached the sublime Parthenon. The fagade is still tolerably well preserved, and gives a great many outlines and points to fancy, from which she can easily fill in the whole of the noble old picture. A broad colonnade, in the most simple grandiose style, surrounds the temple, which is both closed in and decorated with pillars. The pediment of the temple is, unhappily, greatly damaged ; and there are only to be seen two headless, armless figures, which must once have formed part of a marble ^ group. A few broken traces of the metopes are to be seen between the roof and the columns. So elegant and small are the dimensions of the temple of Yictory, so majestic and large are they in these works of ancient art ; yet both stand alike charm- ing in architectural harmony. An irresistible charm 160 ON THE WING. exists in these marble ruins ; the works have been planned by a thoughtful mind, and executed with spirit. One riddle remains unsolved by us, viz. how the ancients had the strength and the means to pile those great masses of stqne on each other. Yes ! those great artists made such architectural calculations as we are not accustomed to think of, such as our poor weak age dares not contem- plate. Thus they managed to protect their won- derful buildings, made of colossal stones unce- mented by mortar, from the nunierous earthquakes of the South, by giving to all the pillars a some- what sharp inclination to the interior of the temple, so that the cross-stones, propped up against each other, gave a support to the whole. In this way they gave to the bases of the Parthenon a leaning direction towards the centre, producing an optical illusion, and making these noble buildings appear larger. For the figure of Zeus no better work could have been chosen as an abode for the god, for it expresses, at the same time, the gravity and ATHENS. 161 the greatness of tlic thunder-god, and his poetical aspect as an admirer of the nymphs. We went into the interior. Where was once the roof, the clearest light now streams from the blue ether through the Penthelicon marble, yellow-stained by time. The roof itself, to which rose the smoke of the offerings, now Kes scattered in pieces on the ground, where formerly ran the blood of the beasts that were sacrificed. Of the richly-adorned dweller in this old marble fortress, the Zeus of Phidias, there are no longer any traces. The golden hair and mantle have served somewhere to fill the sack of the robber. In the interior they have placed two oid marble thrones, dug out of the earth. Here the King and Queen sit at the archaeolo- gical feasts which are celebrated. "We thought of ourselves as in the times of the Athenian people, when at the fall of Creon they sent away their kings. Professor K., however, seated himself, with enthusiastic admiration for the ancients, on the King's throne, and now the long-cherished wish 16.2 ON THE WING. of our company was fulfilled. We had kept with, great care, from the beginning of the journey, a flask of Austrian wine, which was now brought out, and its contents emptied h\ a toast for the Fatherland. Southern customs were blended with northern. Eecorder K. sat like a bard of the old German times, his grey locks playing ia the wind, upon the marble throne. We formed a circle around him, whereupon, in the inspiration of the moment, he broke out into an oration, with a clear resounding voice, and greeted the Father- land. We listened to his words with enthusiasm and emotion. It was a poetical moment, rendered so by the love of home, and yet more exciting from the surroundings. We had fulflUed our purpose of drinking the fruit of home vineyards, on the strongest fortification in Attica, whilst we should think with love of our beloved country. Before we put the juice of the wholesonie Austrian grapes to our lips, I offered a libation to the mythological gods, A\'hose wonderful art forms had once peopled ATHENS. lb.) these rooms, in presence of the remains of the old heroes, on the stone in front of the throne, according to old usage. Then each one took a mighty draught ; and I, to prevent future pro- fanation, dashed the flask on the marble. The Grecian ofl&cers, who accompanied us, looked at this scene with astonishment; when it was ex- plained to them they stooped and picked up the remains of the broken flask as remembrances. It appeared that our patriotism aroused theirs. My brother could, unfortunately, not share in these festivities, a slight indisposition keeping him at home. From the Parthenon we went through a sea of ruins to the Erecthea. Upon a massive, but not very broad, wall of marble which encircled it were slender caryatides, which bore oriiamcnted entabla- tures carved in stone upon their heads. The rich draperies of the dress, the thick wavy hair, and the serious features of these figures, gave a very strong impression of their excellence. The form and the M 2 164 ON THE WING. rich ornaments of the picturesque little temple remind one, unwittingly, of the ibeautifully carved cabinets of the cinque cento. For these charming little works modern Greece has become famous, and has replaced some of the missing caryatides with new works in stone. In this temple also, as in all excepting that of Theseus, the Toof was wanting, giving a still sharper outline to the ruins against the sky. The other side is leaning on the free- stone wall, by which the likeness to a cabinet is still more increased. On the other side of the wall is a t-olerably large room, which on two sides is surrounded by beautiful ^Corinthian pillars. To which kind of Grecian pillar to give the pre- ference I do not quite know; but the Parthe- non, with its massive, yet slender forms, pleased me most. No scrolled work, no unnecessary or- naments spoiled the glorious impression. Here, as everywhere with what is gre.at and beautiful, ornament is not needed to extract admiration and increase delight. ATHENS. 165 We turned our stops to the tfemple which was erected to both the guardians of ancient Athens — Minerva and Neptune. But the serious majestic goddess who sprung forth from the head of Jove had the superiority over the wild "water man," and the wise people of Athens preferred Minerva's present, the olive-tree, to Neptune's, the horse arising from the waves. The most beautiful of the remains of this temple is a richly ornamented entrance door ; and close to this, amongst the rocks, they showed us a hollow, from which Neptune, with his trident, had caused the stream to flow. The Grecian archseologist, a very amiable learned man, let us into a house, in which we found a valuable collection of dug-up vessels and other objects. The earthen vases of Greece are distinguished by their graceful, and yet simple, forms, and by their beautifuUy-marked red and black colours. Action and poetry are to be found in all the figures of the remains of these times. It is worthy of remark that on tbc lower side 166 ON THE WING. of the mighty rocks opposite the sea stands the theatre of Herod, which is rtow slowly being given back to daylight from the bosom of the earth; and one already sees the old form of the circus, as it is so well to be seen in Yerona. It had been built by some Croesus, who lived in the happy times when people had, occasionally, too much money. It happened to jhim in this way : He had found a treasure which had already given him all the luxuries of life ; he did not know how to make use of the mass of gold, and turned in his difficulty to the Emperor Hadrian, who gave him the thought of building ay/^aj his burden- some treasure. We left the Acropolis with the exalting idea of having seen the great, the everlastiug ! We felt ourselves nearer to the times when a Pericles lived, and entered into the spirit of those mnivalled artists and great men of Greece, whilst looking at the place where they had lived, and our souls seemed to take up the shadows of the forms of the ATHENS. 167 Acropolis, as if unity and life still ruled in those spots, as if tlie smoke of the rich sacrifice still mounted to the undisturbed ether, and as if the shouts of the crowd, drunk with joy, still re- sounded over the eternally green luxuriant valley. From poetry we went back to prose, and I had the not very agreeable task of receiving the diplomatic corps. Such things were cold douches upon the poetical fervour in which our hearts had rioted over the ancient glories. At half-past five I got on honseback, and accom- panied the Queen to take another cursory glance at Athens. The weather had become more gloomy. The neighbourhood, through which our light Ori- ental horses carried ns, offered a dull picture of melancholy. Bare and darkly-coloured hillocks gave the impression of tombs, when the glow of the bright sun was wanting. The olive-trees, with their dark grey foliage, broiight no life to the leaden landscape, which soon opened into a broad valley. At the cntrancp of this, near the 168 ON THE WING. trees, stood a little chapel, and before it lay blocks of stone, ia wild confusion. Here it was that Byron wrote his poems, and it was here that the ' Maid of Athens ' was composed. The extensive landscape which opens at this point mirrors the soul of the great poet — sadness and glowing longiug, which, by a burning ray of sun, are inflamed into deep passion. But to-day the Grecian sun was not granted to colour these hiUs and broad plains with the enamelled colours of the South. Such days are not favourable to the glow- ing fire of poetry ; the love-sick' heart of the poet can only sing on such as these in melancholy tones. "It was a picture of the languid, not of the victorious Byron. Only in one spot in the far distance hope gleamed upon this sad picture, A small white church, sun-ounded by a few houses^ and luxuriant trees, comforted the eyes. I heard, with pleasure, that a colony of retired German soldiers had lived there. For the admirers of old buiklihgs two aqueducts ATHENS. 169 are the most remarkable objects in this valley. They date from the Eoman times, and are built of tiles. The greatest part of the pillars time has already destroyed. What is remarkable in these two aqueducts, and causes most astonishment at the way in which the architect has caused natiu-e to bow to his will, is that in the same yalley they run in contrary directions. The object of these constructions has ceased, and the pillars stand now as sorrowful reminiscences of past culture. At a small expense these aqueducts might be restored, which would bring new life to the poverty-stricken country. Scarcely had we left these ruins, when tolerably heavy rain came on. The Queen put up her umbrella, the horses were started off at a quick trot, and we went hastily to a neighbouring house belonging to one of the Royal bailiffs, which stood at the edge of a small stream. We were delighted to observe some fruit-trees and fields of clover near it. "We left oiu- horses in the court of the German- 170 OJf THE WING. built house. The Queen showed us with some pride a magnificent dairy, which provides cream for those who drink coffee in thfe German fashion. At the Court also we had nothing to complain of in the milk, which generally in Southern lands is so obnoxious to Northerners. The broad luxurious foliage of a few plants of vine before the bailiff's room protected us from the rain. The Queen, who had gained an excellent appetite from the quick ride, ksked the woman of the house to bake some pancakes, which we consumed in a little dark room. Meanwhile car- riages came from Athens, and we got home dry. Our toilets were made in haste, and we went to dinner, at which Captain 0. was presented to the Queen by our resident Consul, Count J. As the lively Queen found that we had had too little exercise that day, we played after dinner at " k la guerre." The whole company endeavoured to display their talents for the game, which many did in a very comical manner, so that it -was easy for the ATHENS. 171 practised billiard player, Dr. F., to win. With this triumph of Viennese skill, the day ended. The following morning my brother and I visited once more, in the company of Count C. and Ee- corder K. and our allotted adjutant, the noble Temple of Theseus, whose choice treasures of art in the interior we had not yet sufficiently exa- mined. This morning we could see it all at our leisure, without being disturbed by our less enthu- siastic companions (we make an exception of Pro- fessor G. also). We were much indebted to the learned, agreeable explanations of the Greek archee- plogist. The most remarkable of the various objects in the temple room is the bas-relief of a hero figure of the time of Xer:^es ; it represents Aristion, a relation of Theseus. Of this rare souvenir they had taken a little care, and had hidden it under a glass case from the effects of the air. One sees, from the profile of this hero, how, even in early times, they had a feeling for art in iGreece, and if by the side of later creations this 172 ON THE WING. work appears stiff, yet one can gioe that a people who, in their infancy, knew how to mould such forms, must be destined to have a glorious future. The features and limbs of the figure are rigid and unformed, and we might conclude from them how the spark of art had passed from the old, serious, strong Egyptians to the youthful Greek nation, and there had first expanded under the influence of a happy and powerful nature to its, sublime and uni- versally-admired results. When we leave these oldest recollections of Grecian sculpture, we find near them numerous monuments which, by their rich ideas, and by their skilful ; execution, remind us of the prime of Hellas; for after the granite and other hardly- worked materials of the Egyptian school, with its cold stiff forms, the soft white marble of the Penthelicon breathed a new life into the youthful efforts. Already the artist has united scenes from real life with mythological faith, and raised the mystic veil; so the spectator finds an expression of the thought whi(?h fills it. The ATHENS. iTo figures of the dying on the monument are always in a sitting posture, and covered with a veil, em- blematical of the separation from the world. Around them stand the relations and friends, who are endeavouring by their prayers to prevent the parting. Is it a mother dying, surrounded by her family? The artist places a child on her knee, holding a bird in its hand, by which is typified the fleeting soul of the mother. Many of these monu- ments are preserved, and the various figures on them are not emblematical ; they are real flesh and blood, covered with the richest draperies.- Amongst the remaining objects, another sarco- phagus and an excellent statue are worthy of notice. This latter represents a young man, whom they pointed out to us as Apollo — I do not know whether it was correctly named, but the figure was not unworthy of the God. A colossal statue, in Egyptian dress, bears the marks of a later date in the manner of its carving. The archaeologist told us it represented Antinous, the favourite of Hadrian. J^74 ON THE WING. It was found upon the field of Marathon. I can easily believe that this work bfelonged to those Eoman times, for it wanted the delicate moulding of Greek art. In the colonnade of Hadrian, where we now entered, curiosities are .kept in the first room, amongst which we found several more monu- ments of the kind I have described. We also paid one more visit to the Temple of the "Winds, which had interested nte greatly through the archajologist's explanations. As I have already remarked, an aqueduct leads to this building, whose now dried-up waters once flowed so regu- larly round a bronze statue of Neptune that it formed the centre of a clock-work on which figures appeared according to the com-se of the hours, and whose age and size increased with the number of the hour. In the first division a child appeared, with a horn of plenty fiUed with buds ; in the second, a maiden with opening buds; and in the third, a figure of a woman with full-blown flowers. In this temple, also, we found a sun-dial, at the southern ATHENS. 175 pole of which a line showed that the course of the earth has not changed in the .least during two thousand years, for to-day the rays of the sun at noon still cast the shadow of the iron rod upon this stone memorial. Let into the division of the octagon are several great bas-reliefs, representing the various winds and their peculiarities. The cold, or liurtful ones, have old bearded countenances, in order to depict the inclemencies of the elements. The soft winds of spring appear in the forms of youths. They are barefooted, by which is intended to show how lightly they pass over the flowery carpet of newly- awakened nature. Many of these figures carry musical instruments in their hands, as signs of their sweetness ; others bear flowers and fruits, showing that they' called these forth. The wind most disliked by the Athenians holds a large shell before its mouth, emblematical of its roaring. From the Temple of the Winds we went to a chamber, turned by the Turks into a steam-bath, 176 ON THE WING. which now contains the plaster casts of all the treasures of art no longer in Greece. Amongst others are the bas-reliefs stolen by Lord Elgin from the Parthenon, Old England was good enough to send these to the Greeks, in order to remind them of what they had lost. From hence we passed on to the so-called Market Gate, which properly, with a few shortened pillars, encircles the remains of the Temple of Minerva. The present name of this portico is falsely given. "We also visited the Catholic church near these ruins. It is small, and in the highest degree un- presentable, so that on this point we were surpassed by the Anglicans, who had buUt themselves a veiy pretty little Gothic church, whilst the Catholics had only a former mosque. At one o'clock we drove with the Queen in a char-k-banc to the mountains. We were, how- ever, soon met by the Eoyal horses, on which we must needs climb the steep part .of the way. The weather was very favourable to us to-day, so that ATHENS. 177 the interesting mountain-passes looked more picturesque than ever. Of cultivation it was entirely deficient; yet the fresh green of the pine-trees shone between the passes of stone, and over the bare yellow earth. Our horses were soon obliged to begin to climb over the slippery rocks. When we had gained the first of the heights we were welcomed by the " zitos " of the inhabitants of the little village of Cupia, who had come to meet us. We had passed by this small place in the valley, now far in the distance. It was a pretty picturesque spot, vegetation had been planted with much trouble in its rocky neighbourhood, and it did the eyes good to rest on the green amid the grey masses. The joy of the people, on seeing the Queen, was so great, and so noisy, that her horse took fright and shied. The costume of the villagers resembled that of Eleusis. The further we jour- neyed into the country, and the higher we climbed, the more oriental and more primitive did the land N 178 ON THE WING. and its inhabitants become. They are a hearty, independent race of men, strong in their fixed belief, powerful in body and mind; and, there- fore, easy and dignified in their bearing, and graceful in their movements. If the craftiness of the ancient Greeks, and the slyness of the slave, did not appear in this unfettered people, I should compare them with the steadfast Tyrolese. This gloomy shadow throws an unpleasing darkness over the shepherds of this mountain peninsula. Owing to these mountain-spurs, which make har- bours on the shore of the sea, the people have acquired the cunning of the traders. The warlike sanguinary mind which enabled them, protected as they were by their rocky fortresses, to chase the enemy with long-nourished vengeance from their country was not, as with the Tyrolese, settled peacefully after tlie hardly won victory. The strife was too long and fierce, aiid, combined with the cunning elements of their character, has degenerated into robbery, froni which violence ATHENS. 179 even such great expeditions as we were making seemed not to be quite secure, for we saw gens d^armes to-day, placed at several points of the road. Though the Queen assured us that this zeal was unnecessary, I believe such precautions were not taken without reason. Akeady the path had become narrower, owing to the various obstacles of rock and stone. But the Queen, accustomed to such hindrances, from her frequent journeys into the interior, scampered lightly over them, and we soon arrived at still steeper heights, pictu- resquely covered with pine-trees and rocky crags j then we presently descended by a path, which in our country we should not dignify by such a name, and here the horses knew how to advance, mounting or sliding, as required. The nearer we came to our goal, the old border fortress of Phila, the wilder and narrower became the road, and the more varied the forms of the rocks. Every- where the homely pine-trees were to be seen. N 1 180 ON THE WING. These places reminded me of oiir Salzkammer- gut and our Tyrol. We were still obliged to ride over rough stony- flats, between a wall of rock, a steep precipice, and pass a hollow defile in sight of the for- tress. At last we found ourselves at the end of our charming journey ; the weather was most beau- tiful, and the ruins of the fortress lay on the further point of a tolerably broad plateau, over- grown with luxuriant vegetation. These ruins are composed of a not very loijg square wall of colossal plain freestone ; at the comers are placed four towers, of which one is round, which proves that the Greeks already kney how to build round walls. Phila was the refuge of the .thirty tyrants, in which they fortified themselves, to escape the anger of the Athenians. We see from this that the idea of a strong refuge does not date only from the middle ages. These thirty gentlemen ATHENS. 181 could contemplate the town of Athens, from their eagle's nest, through the cutting in the mountain, so dangerous to them, with its dazzling back- ground of the azure mirror of the sea. The chains of the tyrants are broken, the protecting walls decayed; and now the peaceful ivy, the usual mantle of the dead, weaves a luxuriant green network over the ruins. The much-dreaded castle has become a romantic object for an ex- cursion. The view of Athens, of Acroj)olis, and the noble sea was truly bewitching ; between the dark masses of the mountain, it looked like a miniature set in a frame. After the horses were rested we set off again on the neck-breaking stony path, which stretched itself along the mountains and the small valley ; but we soon left the road we had come by, in order to go through, if possible, still greater equestrian dangers. "We went over the ridge of the mountain, and 182 ON THE WING. again descended by a path. wMcli might per- haps make a good footing for chamois. Before us opened the narrow defile, around us stretched rocks buried amidst low underwood, and we balanced on our half-stepping, half-sliding horses from, stone to stone along the steep precipice. One false step of the eager animal, and the un- happy victim is the child of death ! These are the pleasure rides of the curious Europeans in old Hellas, the former sanctuary of civilization and progress. The defile continued to grow narrower. In vain my eyes searched for the walls of the convent, which was to be the aim of our past dangers. Instead of that I discovered that those of the caravan who were behiad the Queen, my brother and myself, seemed to have observed the danger in which we were, for both northern and southern riders,^ of whose boldness we had so often icard, had dismounted, and were leading their horses comfortably by the bridle. They preferred tiring their own limbs, to hovering in the air ATHENS. 183 over the precipices. For dear life's sake this was surely better, but, as we saw that the heroic Basi- lissa did not fear the danger, my brother and I remained in our saddles. The most remarkable spot was still in store for us. As I cannot say the path^ I will use the ex- pression, our direction^ was now to reach the bottom of the ravine. The place where we had to turn was the projection of a rock, on which a Jiorse could only just stand. The Queen's horse arrived on this dizzy point; then the noble lady became suddenly aware of the danger. Neither borse nor rider wished to go forward ; but one step backwards, and she would be dashed down the precipice. The situation was fearful; but the helping hand of the Queen's equerry arrived, who led the horse forward by the bridle ; after whom we also happily passed this terrible place. We could now see the end of the pass, in which water flowed; but where was the convent? The world seemed nailed up in boards; where should 184 ON THE WING. wc now discover the work of men's hands between rocks and pines in this primitive nature? We suddenly saw, at the turning of the path, that the direction we had taken was cut off at the end of the valley by a little wall between the overhang- ing masses of rock. But where were we to find the convent? The defile coming to an end, the little waU could only be considered as a barrier in the road. The riddle became more and more exciting. We stood before the wooden gate of the wall; the hinges creaked, and we found our- selves, all at once, as by the stroke of a magic wand, in a romantic, lovely picture of peaceful loneliness — the convent court. Without, threat- ened the wilderness; withiu, spi-ead a large vine, like a tender guard over the quiet rest of prayer. Only the clear blue eye of heaven had entrance into this refuge of pious souls. The day's ride may, perhaps, have been the type of the life of many of the monies. He leaves the homely hearth, where he lived during his happy ATHENS. 185 cMldliood, amongst the flowers of the garden; he goes forth into the world, which represents itself to him as a broad valley, bounded, in the far dis- tance, by picturesque mountains. He steps boldly forward ; the road is so smooth, the homes of guar- dians and friends so near; but the mountains attract him, he wishes to climb to the glittering blue heights in the distance. He approaches the base. " The work is easy," he says inwardly, "for my eyes can overlook the road, and reach from the beginning to the end." But the poor soul forgets the feet which must carry it; it for- gets that the foot can slip, that there are heights and precipices below. He follows the senses, and trusts to the firmness of his step. The valley becomes narrower ; the plains begin to rise ; pointed rocks spring forth out of the earth ; but the danger is still not imminent. He steps bravely onward. The sun rises in the firmament, and throws glow- ing rays. The path becomes rougher. The wan- derer begins to look down on precipices. At first 186 ON THE "WING. it heightens Ms pleasure. He sees a vUlage before him. ; the inhabitants come to nieet him with re- joicings. His pride increases ; but he is not satis- fied. He passes by the last settlement of friendly man ; he is driven boisterously onward. He de- sires fame ; he must climb the ^fortress ; he must see regions only inhabited by eagles. He despises danger, because he already sees the longed-for object in the far-off distance. The defiles become narrower, the heights more giddy. He strives upwards ; he has reached the gpal, and finds the ruins of fallen greatness; then, 'for the first time, he is overcome by fatigue. His head turns before the fearful abyss; in sad despair he wanders in the wilderness. His wishes are baffled, his hopes broken. The danger grows more threatening, every step more fatal. His path continues to ascend, and approaches even nearer to the preci- pice; then he steps upon a paint of the rock. He is surrounded by rough desert ; the fresh vege- tation has ceased, and he stands alone in a sea ATHENS. 187 of grey stones. Now his courage fails him ; he is maddened ; the danger has reached the highest degree. He sees a wall, with a closed gate ; with ■a penitent heart he falls powerless on the threshold. He knocks, and knows not what will be opened to him. The hinges creak, and the tired wan- derer finds himself in the quiet cloister. The vine spreads its branches, casting a cool shadow; the little church invites him to prayer and re- pentance; and serious friends stretch out theii- :hands to him, and take him into their peaceful home. This convent, the recollection of which yet causes ^emotion in me, is, as I have already remarked, .surrounded with a wall, and hangs, like the nest of a swallow, upon the rocky projection of the stony mountain. The small inner space is so well arranged that it would do honour to the best .English travelling-bag. Small stone houses, which present the most faithful pictures of mortification, .find a place against the rocks and in the wall. 188 ON THE WING. In the small court there is a somewhat raised terrace, which, under a rich roof of grapes, brings a picturesque element iato the whole interior. Beyond this terrace is the small church, which forms the background. "We entered it with the Queen. It bears the stamp of the Byzantine churches. A mysterious gloom reigns in it, which arises from the end of the church being hollowed out of the rocks. As we rested for a short time in the charming court, where nothing is to be seen of the neighbouring abyss, the caravans formed a pretty sketch for a genre painter in search of originality. Europe's faded, uninterest- ing dandy clothing, France's elegant riding habits, the rich costumes of modern Grreece, were seen collected in an old Oriental cloister, which had been consecrated to renunciation of the world ! We had seated ourselves on the stone. There was a rattling and a clatter in the low dark walls of the cloister, and a haggard, neglected figure of an old monk camo forth among the merry young ATHENS. 189 world with a cheerful countenance. The white beard of the feeble old man waved over a short -dark caftan, and reached below the blue pantaloons to his knees. Legs and feet were clothed in white stockings and black shoes. Upon his bent head was perched a kind of Persian cap. From his shoulders -to his hands his arms were draped in white. As in the monasteries of the West, this monk brought us friendly gifts of na=tiu'e, consisting of honey, bread, and grapes. "We inquired where the rest of the brethren were, and were told that they were busy in the fields at work. Altogether, six of them lived in this solitude. Their appoint- ments are few and scanty, and if their dwellings are strangely contrasted with the rich abbeys of Austria, so their minds, in comparison with our proud Benedictiaes, are most simple. This sim- plicity suits with the rude wild country, and the ancient religious feeling which reigns here makes -no slighter an impression than the higher know- ledge of the convents of our Fatherland. 190 ON THE WING. We again mounted our horses, and left the pass which, had become so interesting to us, in order to visit a cavern at the end of it, where, so the Queen told us, some time ago the Austrian Am- bassador found a great treasure in old vases. "We returned to the village of Cassia by a not less picturesque road. Here, on a charming flat, covered with pine-trees, we encamped, set up a small table and some camp-stools, and made a hearty meal. The place was lovely, and the rest did us good. I remarked that the uncultivated people of Grreece, like their European brethren, took great pleasure in watching the meals of persons of high rank. I have often thought that they must imagine queens to eat in a different manner from ordinary beings, but here the interest was mutual, for we travellers were glad of the opportunity of observing the Gre- cian spectators. After we had broken up our camp, the Queen spoke in most charming Greek to the children in the crowd. We now again started on our road. As we ATHENS. 191 passed over the plain, night overtook us, and a fresh scene was offered to our gaze. The moon appeared with her mild solemn face amidst a choir of stars. As everything in the South is clearer, more fiery, and more inspiring, so the stars themselves twinkle more brightly and enchantingly there. In the North the moon seems to be supported by the blue of the heavens, whilst over the fields of Attica it appears as if it hovered in the free air, enabling the eye apparently to pierce further into the far unknown distance. So brightly -did the stars shine through the night that the courageous Queen was able to set off at full gallop to the capital, in spite of ^ th e bad roads. The carriages, which had come to meet us, were to my great delight not used, and, dashing quickly on, we came through the •glorious Southern night-air to the royal castle. I confess, with admiration, that the bra-^e Basilissa understands how to show her guests the beauties of her country, and teach them to prize its treasures. We were tired by the long seven hours' ride, 192 ON THE WING. but only in body, not in mind, and the glorious moonsliine made us resolve, being now somewhat refreshed, to set our tired limbs again in motion. There was an enthusiastic insatiableness in oui- love of art, which prevented our confessing fatigue. " L'appdtit vient en mangeant," and therefore the small number of the Phil-Hellenes and the admirers of antiquities were really happy at having this treat at the conclusion of this eventful day. Added to this enjoyment of the Grecian works of art we joined some malice, and amused ourselves with the despairing countenances of the prosaic lovers of comfort. The excellent dinner was hastily taken, and we threw ourselves, preceded by the Queen, into the carriage. During the drive wo had an opportunity of admiring the clear pale moonlight shed over the landscape, thus showing how deserving we were of such a chandelier. All that was sublime was distinctly visible, whilst the bare deserts of earth lay in darkness. All colour, had disappeared. ATHENS. 193 giving one soft tone to the whole, so that the forms of the objects were only distinguishable by their shadows. Near the gate of the Acropolis, on the height, we very nearly fell victims to our love of art. The horses, not appearing to share in our enthusiasm, could not proceed up the sacred road {via sacra)^ and our carriage slid deliberately down the stcop way to the precipice. The modern Greeks, who never drive carriages up these streets, did not care in the least to quiet our alarm ; no railing gave us the sweet delusion of being saved. The Queen then took the only remaining means of escape, and, amidst cries of despair, threw herself out of the carriage. The maid of honour, who had fainted from an emotion so unusual for a Greek, was thrown into the arms of a stout Bavarian footman. Charles and I saved ourselves after the Queen's fashion. The carriage, freed from our weight, was now kept from rolling back by the horses, and Ave entered the lofty gate of the temple of the god on foot. 194 ON TUB WING, From the outer court we had our first magic glimpse of the sea converted into a silver mirror. My eyes always rest with exalted feelings upon the broad ocean, as when I first saw it lighted up by the Grecian full moon. I had always longed for, and dreamed of the South ; now my dream is realized and far surpassed. With what a proud feeling did I tread the brightly shining steps of the Propylseum, whose columns stood like giants of the times of the gods ! Black and square the plain French tower rose from the dark ground ; small, yet beautifully sublime, the Temple of "Vic- tory hovered between the sea and the deep blue heavens like a fancy from a dream. Nobly towered the great Parthenon, as though it had risen at the command of a deity. Lightly the Caryatides supported the temple of the nymph Erecthea. Everything — so beautiful, so great, so fantastic, and everything in ruins ! Involun- tarily the thought came across my mind, as I stood amongst these ruins lit up by the moon, " Here lies the church j-ard of History." ATHENS. 195 Five national epochs had revolved over this place, and now the first of these still fills us with admiration. The deep poetry which lies in the works of Greece could never be breathed by them into any other people. The Eoraan is great, but oppressively heavy; the Frenchman is angular, strong, and stout ; whilst among the Turks, cruel, fanatical dcstructivenoss is shown by their bald skuUs. With the genius of enthusiasm, the Queen led us to an admirably- chosen point of view, from whence we could contemplate the isolated buildings in all their magnificence. As Queen of the Hellenes, she looks upon the glory which rests on these great works as part of her inheritance. I could have stayed for hours at these various points of view, lost in my own thoughts, but the company was too numerous, aid there was too much insignificant nature mingled amongst us. I had a feeling as if I could here write poetry — poems of longing and high feeling. We climbed 2 196 ON THE WING. upon the last peak of tlie richly-laden rook, from whence we could see the new town. It lay in peaceful stillness, and only the lighted windows showed that life existed there. 'As when a young child seats itself at the foot of the throne of its re- nowned ancestors, so it lay there,, and the Basilissa, standing by our side, is the bond uniting the pre- sent with the past. "We separated with full hearts, and my soul was possessed by thoughts of other times. The Queen, in order to try the patience of the party, now went, to my great joy, on towards the Areopagus, upon the rock from whence the holy St. Paul had preached to the Athenians of the Unknown God, Here also it was heavenly. The Queen tripped as merrily over the blocks of stone as though she had been reposing the whole day, to the great displeasure of the Ipvers of ease, who would much rather have been ^dreaming of rosy champagne, between soft eider-down quilts. As we left the Areopagus we suddenly saw, on ATHENS. 197 tlie side towards the sea, a glorious falling star, so large that it seemed as if the moon was dropping into the wayes. It changed colour from green to red, and left a long streak of flanie behind it. We re-entered our ominous carriage, and drove to the Columns of Jupiter. They are all large, like everything that is Eoman, but wanted that lovely poetic breath of the Grecian works. It is splendour without grace. Through the Gate of Hadrian we returned to the royal palace. Every moment I w'ished myself back in the " churchyard of History," although I had been in motion the whole day. I shall remember this evening, and the Basilissa, as long as I live. 198 OHAPTEE v. A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYEJSTA. The first morning in Asia Minor, the first in the Ottoman empire, smiled on us joyfully. Before us lay the East, with its -wealth, its vegetation, its thousand dazzling appeals to the senses. The blossoms of Asia opened befoip us j our long- cherished dreams were realized. On a slight elevation by the s^a stood the town, with its innumerable houses mingled in a confu- sion of colours and forms. Slender minarets, the sign-posts of Mahometanism, lifted their peculiarly graceful architecture by the side of the cupolas of the mosques. Eich forests of cypresses on the A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 199 height oversliadow the graves of the Turks in quiet majestic solemnity. Upon the highest point, as on a terrace, were the ruins of a strong fortress, which is ascribed to Alexander the Great in this country, so rich in historical recollections. In the background rose the mountain-range, with its thousandfold varied outlines, enclosing the clear gulf like a half-moon, and forming on its shores the greenest declivities and valleys, from whence peeped forth a few solitary settlements. The most beautiful of the valleys led the brave hero Eichard Cceur de Lion in olden days to fame. Its name is Cordelion. On the other shore one of the Turkish fortresses was to be seen on a small promontory ; and above all this magnificence rises the blue cloudless azure. Each minaret, each cypress, each beautifully-arched cupola, each bril- liantly-coloured house, was a revelation for us and excited our curiosity. We accounted ourselves blessed when at length the boat was let down the side of the ship, and we rose over the waves by 200 ON THE WING. powerful strokes with tlie oar, and approached the magic coast. The expression of the spiritual, the embodiment of high ideas, is the first thing .a traveller should seek in a strange place. In this frame of mind the solemn minaret and the mosque were our first points in the wonderful Asiatic land. Dazzled and confused by the multitude of delights, we passed through the streets and bazaars to a raised square in the outskirts, where stands the Mosque of Kiltgezagi. In front of the entrance- steps to the raised terrace, formerly the foundation of the building, is a well, surrounded by trees, which gives to the whole an impression of fresh- .ness and life. It is a pretty thought that at the steps of the house of God should be off'ered that rare refreshment in the Eastern climate, trees and water. The mosque, consisting of one great arched cupola, stands in the raised place, surrounded by a stone parapet. To the right -rises the slender A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 201 mmaret, in the interior of which a small dark staircase leads to a gallery running out in a point to the end. From this, five times a day, the "muezzin calls to prayer. The minaret, as well as the mosque, appears to be built of a grey sandstone. Before the three entrances stretch a flight of stairs, which lead, now, to a terrace that serves as a place for the preparatory prayer breathed by the Mahometans before entering the mosque. Over the centre door rises a little tower, with a low balcony, from whence the Iman intones his prayers. The Consul excused our taking off our shoes at the entrance, thus permitting us to commit sacrilege, according to Mahometan ideas. Full of expectation, we entered the consecrated part of the building, and were reminded every moment of the " periwig " style of churches. Eows of columns divide the place into three parts ; above the centre and largest of these rises the cupola. The walls ^and the columns are adorned with gold and coloured 202 ON THE WING. ornaments, but the grounding is white. In several portions of the building texts from the Koran are painted. In the middle of the wall, opposite the door, is the place where the superior Iman, the shepherd of Turkish souls, offers up the principal prayers. The wall behind this is covered, with great profuseness, with gold decorations; and the ground is spread here, as elsewhere, with rich carpets. The rest of the marble flooring is fur- nished with reed-matting, an arrangement which was very advantageous for the Christian knees and feet. In the place where in our churches the altar generally stands hung three pictures; the centre piece represented the Grave of the Prophet. To the right we saw Medina, and to the left Mecca, with its minarets and cupolas. These pictures are drawn in a peculiar, and not wholly unsuccessful, aerial perspective. The material appears to be a kind of water, or body colour.: These sketches of the Mahometan holy places are the only pic- A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 20 3 tures ever painted by Turks, for the believers of the true faith are forbidden to represent any- thing else, according to the strict commands of "the Koran. This may have been one of the reasons why, in Europe, we have remained so long in the dark regarding the customs and usages of the domestic life of the Turks, because the Mahometan Colossus preserved itself from foreign influences by forbidding the possession of portraits, or of reli- gious or genre pictures. These commands and pro- -hibitions of the wise Prophet, add his expositions or doctrines, united in dividing, as with a wall built of a thousand stones, the unbelievers from the members of his flock. But a change is dawning even in these dis- tricts. The idea of religious obedience is con- sidered a laughable annoyance, which must be opposed. They begin to pull out the smaller stones from the well-cemented wall, and forget that the larger must fall out also, as a necessary conse- quence. Under the title of abuses, they begin to 204 ox THE WING. put aside everytMng not absolutely and imme- diately necessary, until the props requisite for the support of the whole are taken away, and the en- tire structure is overthrown, with fuU consciousness of what is being done on the part of some, and to the astonishment of others of the innoTators. To the right of this place, adorned with pic- tures, a small flight of steps leads into a little tower, supported by four pillars. The entrance to this small, elegantly-built guard-house is closed by a red hanging curtain. A roof, running into a point, rises high above the principal wall, and bears, at its outer end, for a protection to the Little building, the Crescent,' that once formidable sym- bol of the Mahometans, which mowed down mercilessly both races and people like a sickle. In this richly-ornamented lofty little house, it is the duty of the Iman to pray for the wehPare of the Sultan. This custom is very suitable in an absolute monarchy, where the phief is also head of the Church ; for, naturally, it must make a great A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYENA. 205 impression on the people to know that their ruler has a place of his own, separated from all others ; and it is only the priest who is able to climb, as on a Jacob's ladder, into these exalted regions, from whence, as from the clouds, he allows the people to hear his prayer for the successor of Mahomet. Opposite this little tower, on the left side of the wall, is a rich white and gold ornamented pulpit. Here the Mahometan book of books, or rather the only book known to them, is read. All these details of the mosque have great simi- larity with those of our Church. The richly- adorned little building reminds one of the pyx. The pulpit is just like ours, even in form and ornaments; and our choir we recognize over the entrance gate ; only, instead of the organ, there is a large grated division, where the Sultan attends the service. As we mounted the choir we natu- rally found that this partition was locked. In this arrangement a proof of good judgment is ob- 206 ON THE WING. servable; the pious people im.agme their ruler present, though, his person is hidden from then- inquiring gaze, which excites their curiosity, and nourishes a mysterious worship ia the multitude. The great number of lamps is worthy of notice. Ostrich eggs and stags' antlers hang about the mosque, and preserve the real motley Oriental charm. The question naturally arises, what ostrich eggs and stags' antlers have to do in the house of God. "We put this question, and learned another piece of Mahometan superstition — the faithful hang these objects in their mosque to hinder the inju- rious praise of the unbeliever doing them any hurt. Thus, when a Christian enters the mosque, and praises the beauty of the building, or the magni- ficence of the interior, his admiring wandering gaze must fall on these appendages, and the mis- fortune which might result from- his admiration is averted. This belief, strange as ;it may seem, does not harm the general effect made on the spectator. The impression made by the mosque, with its A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 207 rows of pillars and its cupolas, is exalting, peace- ful, and grand. Nothing repulsive meets the eye of a Christian : no overladen ostentation, no marked plainness puts the visitor into a bad humour. Only one treasure is missed by the Christian — it is the altar. This comforting place for an oppressed soul is wanting in the temple of the Mahometans, and it is this "want which renders the service cold and uninteresting to us. The unity is wanting — the Sacrifice including every prayer. Prom this arises an emptiness in the house of God. The thought is forced upon one that one could pray equally well at home — that no synagogue, no mosque, no church is necessary. It is the Jew who feels this most strongly. His temple is destroyed, his altar broken, the pearl of his religion robbed, and, being able only to sacrifice in Zion, he feels a helpless yearn- ing after the former happiness of the Patriarchs. It was given to us, the disciples of the Messiah, to find, in the most magnificent cathedral, as in the smallest chapel, something higher than ever was 208 ON THE WING. present in tlie wonderful building of Solomon. Therefore we search sadly in the churches of dif- ferent believers for the honoured place, to which the eyes of the praying multitude .are turned during the holy office. Though it was Friday — the Turkish Sunday — there was no service going on in the mosque : it was too early an hour, and no worshipper had arrived. A kind of Iman took us round. He wore a turban, a striped silken caftan with a sash, and an overcoat. To this dress was kdded an indolent face, with a yellow skin, and a long beard, forming quite a characteristic picture. As we left the mosque to ascend the minaret we saw a Turk, deep in prayer, lying on the terrace appointed for preparatory prayer. He knelt on a carpet, which it was the custom for all to bring. His di-ess consisted of a crimson draped caftan and a snow-white turban. His shoes he had taken off and laid near him ; in his hands he twisted the Oriental rauch-lovcd string of round beads. From A VISIT TO TUB MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 209 his brown visage, over Hs breast, bung a snow- white beard; his eyes were cast clown in deep prayer; his features were serene and contemplative. It was a striking picture. Only from time to time he gazed painfully and anxiously about, and, dis- turbed perhaps by our loud conversation, his dark fanatical eyes rested for a moment upon us. As he observed the curiosity and the contempt of the unbelievers, he burst forth into a heartrending cry, and sang liis devotions softly, whining sadly. It was not the expression of cold ironical reproach against the curious Christians, but rather the pitiful regret, a quiet lament over the sacrilege which it probably appeared to him we had committed. Filled with emotion, pity, and esteem for this pious worshipper, we left the place, and ascended the little dark stone stairs which led to the mina- ret. We did not mount up the whole way, but left the minaret and its mysterious stairs by a little exit, in order to visit the side roofs of the mosque. From this point we could see Smyrna beautifully — 210 ON THE WING. the proud princess of the East. The, beauties of nature were greater than the beauty of the build- ings raised by the hand of man. Far away ex- tended the exquisite plains of silvery blue, and majestically the crowned head rested, with its coloured star-like adornments, upon the green pillow. In the middle of the sea of houses the little place at our feet was distinguished as par- ticularly bustUng and lively, it being the outlet between the bazaar, streets, and the mosque. The place was filled with men of different cos- tumes and complexions, staring at the unbelieving guests, in whose honour the Pasha had ordered troops before the mosque. As we looked with interest at the crowd at our feet, we suddenly heard a curious ringing of bejls. We awaited what should happen. Suddenly the crowd sepa- rated, and we saw a brown mass, move in solemn uniform step. It was a procession of a peculiar nature — a procession of the Thousand and One Nights — a picture, or rather a succession of pic- A VISIT TO THE MOSQUE IN SMYRNA. 211 tures, like those painted by Horace Vernet — a vision. wHch tlie most glowing fancy could not paint, or the most flowing pen describe ; for such things as we saw are only to be found in the East, in the fields of Asia, in the rich, bustling bazaars of Smyrna, Damascus, and Bagdad — only where the sword of Mahomet governs, wherelthe palms blossom, and the Crescent glitters through the wilderness. It consisted of camels, richly laden with mercLan- dise and fruit. They appeared to us as heralds, or representatives, from the ancient world. This animal, which carries the family of the needy Arab across the sandy deserts like a ship, which gives him milk for his simple meal, which ^serves him as a protecting wall against the simoom, and, in extreme need, falls as a victim in order to unlock to his master the hidden cellar — does not the stranger ask wonderingly why this animal, one of the most useful which God created, should be so ugly, so alarmingly hideous? The answer must suffice, that the really useful and competent in this p 2 212 ON THE WING. "world often appear in a low and rough exterior. Everything is peculiar in this animal. Staggering, but not without dignity, the soft spongy foot steps upon the hot ground ; the serpent-like head stretches far out on the lean neck ; the heavily- laden hump rises in a high arch, like a barren shapeless mountain, ^ow passive, now furious, is the wise eye. The hide is as thick as brawn, yet the whole misshapen body is colourless. In a little while these sons of the desert had disappeared in the streets. We returned to the minaret, after we had gone over the roof and seen the interior of the cupola, by a gallery which runs around it, and has so low an edge that any one who suffers from giddiness should refrain from inspecting the mosque from a bird's-eye view. When we quitted the building, our praying Turk had vanished from the outer court ; probably he had already entered the mosque. We left the terraced heights, and mixed in the varied life of the bazaar. 213 CHAPTER YI. A VISIT TO THE SLAVE-MAKKET OF SMYRNA. We had wandered for some time hither and thither in the busy, cheerful bazaar, when I turned to my dragoman, with the question, "Where is the Slave Market ?" He was confused, an