'Oh't LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, NEW YORK RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell university Library TX 715.W66 . ^enewBuc.evecooK!.oc.,Are;^S^^^ Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003576067 THE NEW BUCKEYE COOK BOOK A REVISED AND ENLARi&ED EDITION OF Practical Housekeeping. A Careft/l Compilat^ion of Tried and Approved ' Recipes for ali^ Departments of THE Household. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. -THE HOME PUBLISHING CO., Dayton, Ohio, and Minneapolis, Minn. i8qo. PUBLISHER'S NOTICE. This book is a revised and enlarged edition of Practicai. Housekkeping; containing nearly twice as much matter as old edition, and at but slight advau' in price. Encouraged by the -warm reception accorded former editions, we this before the people, confident that it is the best and most comple^ ,, i-/96 household management in existence, that it will enter and bless ve797-8i7 '•< 818-851 and be valued far beyond its price. ■. . 852-880 . 8 1-908 . Slfe-912 . 913-914 . 915-916 . 917-919 . 920-921 . 922-950 . 951-958 . 959-971 . 972-974 . 975-981 982-991 . 991-1014 1014-1016 1017-1020 1021-1034 1035-1053 1054-1058 1059-1063 1064-1072 1073-lOSl 10S2-1100 iioi-ins 1119-1128 1129-1134 1134-1143 1144-1178 1179-1186 1187-1196 1197-1211 1212-1334 1235-1261 1262-1276 Copyright, 1888, by Eatelle W. Printed and Bound at tbe United Brethren FubllHliing Bouse, Dayton, Ohio. PREFACE. Even the experienced housekeeper frequently feels the need of a trustworthy book of reference regarding household matters, to which she may confidently apply, to refresh her memory or to sup- ply knowledge which her experience has not furnished. To the young wife, who enters upon the task of home-making with httle experience, such a book is invaluable and almost indispensable. Experiments which fail are costly in material, as well as in courage, and no young housekeeper can afford to blunder into a knowledge of her duties, when with such simple and explicit instructions as any experienced house-wife could give, disastrous failures may be avoided. Many of the books which have resulted from attempts to give such instructions in print have been partial failures, either be- cause the authors were too literary to be practical housekeepers, or, being good housekeepers, and familiar with the subjects treated, found it difficult to realize the complete ignorance of the young and untrained, and in consequence failed to express clearly and con- cisely the full processes in detail. In gathering the material for The Buckeye Cook-Book, the one aim has been to pack into it the great- est possible amount of information of real value to housekeepers of that large class who by choice or necessity look carefully after the management of their households, planning to get the best possible returns for the money expended. This is not a hap-hazard collection of recipes, clipped at random from doubtful sources, but has been naade up, without sparing time, labor or expense, from the choicest bits of the best experience of hundreds who have long traveled the daily round of household duties, not reluctantly like drudges, but lovingly, with heart and hand fully enlisted in the work. Those housewives, especially, whose purses are not over-plethoric will, it is believed, find its pages full of timely and helpful suggestions in their PREFACE. efforts to make the balance of the household ledger appear on th» right side, without lessening the excellence of the table or robbing home of any comfort or attraction. The arrangements of subjects treated, whenever practicable, has been made in the simple order of the alphabet, and for the sake of stillmore ready reference avery fuUalphabetical index has been added. Whenever a recipe is given within another, by an addition of ingred- ients, it is indexed and marked by italics ; when one recipe which ap- pears elsewhere in the book is referred to in another recipe, the former begins with a capital letter. The instructions which precede the recipes of each department have been carefully made up, and are en- tirely trustworthy, and the recipes themselves are mosty new to print and well indorsed. These instructions should be carefully read before any recipe, following them, is attempted. Several suggestive articles have also been introduced, which, though not belonging strictly to cookery, bear such close relations to it that the fitness of their ap- pearance in the connection is evident. There has been no attempt at display or effect, the only pur- pose being to express ideas as clearly and concisely as possible, and to make a thoroughly simple and practical work. In the effort to -avoid the mistakes of others, greater errors may have been commit- ted ; but the book is submitted just as it is to the generous judg- ment of those who consult it, with the hope that it may lessen their perplexities, and stimulate that just pride without which work is drudgery and great excellence imnossyjle. BBEAD-MAXIITO. BREAD- MAKINGh. There is an old and true saying, that "she who has baked a good batch of bread has done a good day's work." Bread-making should stand at the head of domestic accomplishments, since the health and happiness of the family depends immeasurably upon good bread ; and there is certain to come a tims in the experience of every true, thoughtful woman when she is glad and proud of her ability to make nice, sweet loaves, free from soda, alum, and other injiirious ingredients, or bitterly regrets that she neglected to learn, or was so unfortunate as not to have been taught, at least the first requisites of good bread-making. Opinions as to what constitutes good bread differ, perhaps, as much as tastes and opinions concerning any thing else, but all will agree that bread, to be good, ought to be light, sweet — that is, free from any perceptible acid or yeasty taste — flaky, granular or not liable to become a doughy mass, and as white as the grade of flour used will allow. Persons with delicate digestive powers and child- ren should not use new bread, and therefore must have such as will keep with little change of texture and none of quality or taste for several days. To obtain these qualities in bread, use the best ■flour, as in families where no bread is wasted the best is cheapest. Housekeepers seldom select flour by examination. They usually take some tried brand, or select on the recommendation of their fur- nisher. No rule can be given by which an inexperienced person can determine the grade of flour with accuracy, but a few hints will 8 BEEAD-MAKING. enable any one to know what not to buy. Good flour adheres to the hand, and, when pressed, shows the imprint of the lines of the skin. Its tint is cream white. Never buy that which has a blue-white tinge. Poor flour is not adhesive, may be blown about easily, and some- times has a dingy look, as though mixed with ashes. Flour should be bought in quantities corresponding to the num- ber in the family, that it may not become damaged by long keeping. Old flour is said by professional bakers to be best for bread-making,^ provided it is kept perfectly pure and sweet, which is very difficult to do when surrounded, as is necessary in small households, by so many contaminating influences of odor, moisture, etc. For this reason it is better to buy in small quantities, depending upon the dealer to furnish that which is not newly ground. In a family of five, a barrel, or even a half-barrel sack of flour, excellent when first bought, will often become much deteriorated before being used up. Flour should be kept dry, cool and entirely beyond g^^Mi^^^^ the reach of marauders, big or little, especially the pi„„ s^^P^ latter, for the infinitesimal meal moth is far more to be dreaded than rats or mice. The three, six and ten-gallon cans (about six pounds to a gallon) with tight tin covers, made by the manu- facturers of granite iron ware, are excellent for this pur- pose, and not expensive considering their durability. Every receptacle of flour should be thoroughly and fre- quently cleansed, to guard against animal as well as vegetable parasites. A single speck of mold, coming ^'"'^^S!^^"' from old or damp flour in an obscure corner of the flour- box, will leaven the whole as rapidly and strongly as ten times its Tveight in yeast. Bread-making seems a simple process enough, but it requires a delicate care and watchfulness, and a thorough knowledge of all the contingencies of the process, dependent on the different qualities of flour, and the varying kinds and conditions of yeast, and the change of seasons ; the process which raises bread successfully in winter making it sour in summer^ There are many little things in bread- making which require accurate observation, and, Avhile valuable rec- ipes and well-defined methods in detail are invaluable aids, noth- ing but experience will secure the name merited by so few, though earnestly coveted by every practical, sensible housekeeper — "an BEEAD-MAKING. 9 excellent bread-maker." Three things are indispensable to success r good flour, good yeast, and watchful care. Never use flour without sifting; this is done with a plain sieve like that represented in the illustra- tion or with some one of the many patent sieves which are more rapid but not always more satisfactory, and a large tin or wooden pail with a tight-fitting cover,^kept full Flour Sieve. pf gifted flour, will be found a great convenience. All kinds of flour and meal, except buckwheat and Graham — and Graham, too, when coarse — need sifting, and all, like ' wheat flour, should be bought in small quantities, as they become damp and musty by long standing. THE YEAST. After the flour, the yeast or leaven is the next essential element in bread. For regular fare most, especially women, prefer "yeast "bread," but men who can not forget "how mother used to cook," have a liking for "salt-rising" bread, and the latter deserves the ac- quaintance of the housekeeper and a frequent welcome on the fam- ily table. The dry hop yeast, such as Twin Bros., Stratton's, l^ational. Eagle, Gillett's and many others, also the compressed yeast, are all good, if fresh, and always available, for they are found in every grocery. Many housekeepers use baker's yeast, and buy for a penny or two what will serve each baking of bread. For those who prefer home-made or potato yeast excellent recipes are else- where given. Potato yeast has two advantages over other kinds ; bread made from it keeps moist longer, and there is no danger tjjiat an excess of yeast will injure the flavor of the bread. Less of any kind of yeast should be used in hottest summer weather, and more in extreme cold weather. THE SPONGE. This is made from warm water or milk, yeast and flour (some add mashed potatoes, which should be mashed quickly while tender, hot and mealy, being careful to remove all lumps, or mash through a colander, then add a little flour with a spoon, and stir, then a lit- tle water, and stir, and so on, mixing the flour and water with the 10 BREAD-MAKING. potatoes gradually) mixed together in the proportion of one pint wetting (water or milk) to two pints of sifted flouif. If milk is used it should be new, and must be first scalded, and then cooled to blood heat. The scalding tends to pre- Tent souring. In using water bring cianaer. it to blood heat. If the "wetting" is too hot, the bread will b© coarse. When water is used a tablespoon* of lard or butter makes the bread more tender. Bread made from milk is, of course, more tender and nutritious, but it has not the sweet taste of the wheat, and will not keep as long as that made from water. When mixed with milk it requires less flour and less kneading. In summer, care must be taken not to set sponge too early,' at least not before eight or nine o'clock in the evening. Sponge mixed with bran water, warm in winter and cold in summer, makes sweeter bread. Boil bran in the proportion of one pint to a quart of water and strain. In very hot weather, sponge may be made with cold water. In winter, mix the batter with water or milk at blood warmth, testing it with the finger, and making it as warm as can be borne ; stir in the flour, which will cool it sufiiciently for the yeast ; cover closely and place in a warm and even temperature. A good plan is to fold a clean blanket several times, and cover with it, providing the sponge is set in a very large crock or jar, so that ther^ is no danger of its running over. As a general rule, one small tea-cup of yeast and three pints of "wet- ting" will make sponge enough for four ordinary loaves. In all sponges add the yeast last, making sure that the sponge is not hot enough to scald it ; when placed to rise, always cover closelj-. In cold weather the temperature runs down very quickly in many kitchens after the fire is out, and the bread should be set earlier in the evening and in a warmer place ; a temperature of eighty to ninety degrees is right. When it rises well for the first two hours it will go on rising unless the temperature falls below the freezing point. It is an im- T)rovement to heat the sponge thoroughly, like batter for a cake, for lifteen minutes or longer. Never set sponge in tin, but always in stoneware, because a more steady and uniform heat can be main- ".' lienever, in this book, the words cupful, coffee-cupful, tea-cupful, table-spoonful, etc.,. u^ . -r, ihc termination "ful" la dropped, for the sake of brevity . BKEAD-MAKING. 11 tained in a stone jar than in tin. Use a six-quart jar for the sponge, which when light enough to mix will have risen almost to top of jar and be covered with fine white bubbles. If left standing too long the sponge will sink in the middle, which is an indication that it is slightly sour, and soda must be used to sweeten before using, in the proportion of a half-teaspoon to a quart of wetting. To make good hread — Always be "Up In tlie morning early, just at the peep of day," in summer time, to prevent the sponge becoming sour by too long standing, and in winter to be getting materials warmed and in readi- ness for use. A large, seamless, tin dish pan with handles and a tight-fitting cover, kept for this purpose alone, is better than a wooden bowl for bread. A fourteen-quart pan is a good size when three pints wetting is used. It should be thoroughly washed and scalded every time it is used. Measure and sift the flour. It is convenient to keep two quart cups, one for dry and the other for liquid measur- ing. In the winter always warm the flour (by placing it in a pan in & warm oven for a few minutes or by setting it overnight where it will be kept at the same temperature as the sponge), and also the sponge. Put the flour in a bread pan, make a large well in the cen- ter, into which pour the sponge, adding two level teaspoons of salt (this is the quantity for four loaves of bread) ; mix well, being care- ful not to get the dough too stiff; turn out on the bread-board, rub the pan clean, and add the "rubbings" to the bread. Knead for from forty-five minutes to one hour, or until the dough ceases to stick to either the board or hands. Do not stop kneading until done. Any pause in the process injures the bread. The process of knead- ing is very important ; use just as little flour in kneading as will prevent sticking, and practice will enable one to make a little flour go a great way. Some good bread-makers knead with thcpalms of the hands until the dough is a flat cake, then fold once, repeating this operation until the dough is perfectly smooth and elastic ; oth- ers close their hands and press hard and quickly into the dough with the flsts, dipping them into the flour when the dough sticks ; or after kneading, chop with the chopping knife and then knead again ; oth- ers still knead with a potato masher, thinking it a great saving of strength. Another method, used by good bread-makers, is to raise 12 BEEAD-MAKING. the whole mass and drop or dash it with considerable force upon the mixing-board or table for several minutes. No exact directions can be given in regard to kneading, but experience and practice will prove the best guides. There are one or two machines for kneading bread that save labor, and which may be purchased in any house- furnishing store in the larger cities. After the bread is thoroughly kneaded, form into a round mass or large loaf, sprinkle the bread- pan well with flour, and, having placed the loaf in it, sprinkle flour lightly on the top (some grease the top with salted lard or butter in- stead of sprinkling with flour), cover closely, and set to rise in a warm temperature, 70° to 80° ; let it rise to twice its original size this time, <=^=~^ or until it seams or cracks on top, say from one V to two hours, differing in time with the season \|.' of the year. Have the baking pans already greased with fresh, sweet lard, or American Bre.d Pan wm cover. Cooking Oil (as butter burns more easily), knead the dough down in the pan, cut into equal parts, place one at a time on the board, mold each into a smooth, oblong loaf (handhng as little as possible), not too large, and put one after another into the prepared baking- pan ; grease the tops of the loaves with salted lard or butter, greas- ing between them also, when several are baked in one pan, to insure easy and even separation, and set to rise. Or the loaves may be made by buttering the hands, and taking enough from the mass to form a loaf, molding it into shape in the hands, without using flour. This insures a nice, brown, tender crust. Loaves made in the French style, long and narrow, are about half crust, and more easily digested the action of heat anticipating part of the digestive process. In mold- ^, — isrr — -^ ing do not leave any lumps or loose flour al!;s;;^^^g pi^:<^f^^^^f^^ adhering to the outside, but mold until the prenohLoaf. loavcs are perfectly smooth. No particu- lar directions can be given in regard to the time bread should stand after it is molded and placed in the pans, because here is the point where observation and judgment are so in- dispensable. In hot weather, when the yeast is very good and the bread Bred set tomse. very light, it must not stand over fifteen minutes before placing to bake. If it is cold weather, and the yeast is less active, or the bread BEEAD-MAKING. 13 not perfectly raised, it may sometimes stand an hour in the pans ■without injury. When it is risen so as to seam or crack, it is ready for the oven ; if it stands after this it becomes sonr, and even if it does not sour it loses its freshness and sweetness, and the bread be- comes dry sooner after baking. Bread should undergo but two fer- mentations; the saccharine or sweet fermentation, and the vinous, when it smells something like foaming beer. The housewife who would have good, sweet bread, must never let it pass this Bread Ready for Oven. changc, becausc the third or acetous fermentation then takes place. This last can be remedied by adding soda in the proportion of one teaspoon to each quart of wetting ; or, which is the same thing, a teaspoon to two quarts of flour ; but the bread will be much less nutritious and healthful, and some of the best elements of the flour will be lost. Always add salt to all breads as the dough will rise better, but never salt sponge. The best to use is an English salt, as it has less of the fishy taste than American salt and a much more delicate flavor. A small quantity of white sugar is an improvement to all bread dough and some add a little lard, but if any shortening is used the American Cooking Oil is. much nicer for either bread, rolls or biscuits. Bread should always be mixed as soft as it can he handled^ but in using the "new process" flour made from spring wheat, the dough requires to^be much harder than is necessary when using that made from winter wheat. Good bread-makers differ widely as to the number of times bread should rise, some insisting that the rule of our good grand- mothers, who only allowed it to rise once, insures the sweetest and most nutritious bread, and that in all subsequent fermentations a decomposition takes place that is damaging to the ' wholesome qual- ities of the ''stafi" of life." In making the French loaf, an easy way is to bake it in Vienna Roll pan. A new innovation in bread-making is the use of compressed yeast, tending much vienoTRiu pau. towards simplifying and shortening the process, and by many con- sidered a most perfect method. The recipe given hereafter is a complete guide. 14 BEEAD-MAKIlf», Every housekeeper should provide herself with what is called by bakers a "proof-box" for placing bread, biscuit,rolls, etc., (already ia the bread-pan) in during the process of rising. This is nothing more nor less than an air-tight wooden box that can be made by anyone at all familiar with EoandcorZeriEreadPan. the use of tools, and its size should of course depend upon the size of the family, which in turn regulates the quantity of dough to be raised. Beside giving the dough this protection, the careful bak- er alsp folds a cloth or towel around it before putting on the close, fitting cover of the box. Kept thus excluded from the air the out- side of the loaves or rolls is as fresh and tender when put in the oven as the inside. Set the box near the range where it will receive the necessary warmth, and be sure that it is kept perfectly sweet and clean, using it for no other purposes whatever. Air and dry the box thoroughly each time before using. TO BAKE BREAD. Here is the important point, for the bread may be perfect thus far and then.be spoiled in baking. No definite rules can be given that apply equally well to every stove and range ; , but one general rule must be observed, which is, to sTei^ andBiscui"t'panr~ havB a stsady, moderate heat, such as is more minutely described in' the directions for baking large cakes. The oven must be just hot enough ; if too hot, a firm crust is formed be- fore the bread has expanded enough, and it will be heavy. To test the heat, place a teaspoon of flour on an old piece of crockery (to secure an even heat), and set in middle of the oven ; if it browns in one minute the heat is right. An oven in which the bare hand and arm can not be held longer than to count twenty moderately is hot enough ; or the "paper test" is to put half a sheet of writing paper in the oven ; if it catches fire it is too hot ; open the dampers and wait ten minutes, when put in another piece of paper ; if it blackens it is still too hot. Ten minutes later put in a third piece ; if it gets dark hrown the oven is right for all small pastry, called "dark irovyii pa- per heaV Light hrown paper heat is suitable for vol-au-vents or fruit pies. Dark^ yellow paper heat for large pieces of pastry or meat pies, pound cake, bread, etc. Light yellow paper heat for sponge cake, meringues, etc. To obtain these various degrees of heat, try paper every ten minutes till heat required for the purp®ie BKEAB-MAEIN©. 16 is attained. Kemember that "light yellow" means paper only tinged ; "dark yellow," paper the color of ordinary pine wood ; "light brown" is only a shade darker, about the color of nice pie-crust, and dark . brown a shade darker, by no means coffee color. The attention of stove-makers seems never to have been directed to the fact that there is no accurate means of testing the heat of ovens, but it is to be hoped that in the near future some simple device, or practical ap- plication of the thermometer, may be found which will render un- necessary such inaccurate and untrustworthy tests as must now be used, and thus reduce baking to a science; and even now busy brains are at work to secure this result, prompted by a suggestion in our first edition. The oven door should be closed immediately upon putting the bread in, and be sure that no part of the range is open during the baking ; Qg|||^H!I!illlfc» neither should the door be opened too soon nor too ^^f^^^^^m^ often to look at the bread. About ten minutes ovai Bread pan. after putting in the loaves it is best to look into the oven to see ho'v^ the bread is doing, and once or twice again during the baking, as the loaves may require changing, opening and closing the door as quickly as possible. If the loaves begin to brown too quickly cover with a piece of thick brown paper ; if they begin to brown quickly at one end and not at the other change their position, or if the loaf at the back of the oven bakes faster than those at the front change them about. To test whether the bread is done, break the loaves apart and press gently with the finger ; if elastic, it is done, but if clammy not done, and must be returned to the oven ; or, if the loaves are single, test with a straw plucked from a broom. Break off the branches and thurst the larger end into the loaf; if it is sticky when ■withdrawn, the bread is not done, but if free from dough it is ready to be removed from the oven. The little projections on the straw, where the branches have been broken off, catch and bring out the dough, when not thoroughly baked. Another test is to knock on the loaf with the closed hand ; if it sounds hollow, the bread is done, but under-done or heavy bread will give forth a dull sound. As a quantity of dtjugh to begin with somewhat reduces the -temperature of the oven at first, one loaf will not require so hot an oven as four or five. The time required for baking is not less than three-quarters of an hour, and bread baked a full hour is more liFholesome and is generally considered more palatable. If bread is Pastry Brnsh, 16 BKEAD-MAKING. baked in the French roll pan it does not require so long a time, as the "rolls" are only about two and a ha,lf to three inches deep and same width, being rounded at the bottom. They are very nice for sUcing, making pretty sized pieces. The pans ' ^^^^^^ ^„„ ^.^^ _ come in different lengths, eight, twelve, sixteen and twenty inches. All loaves of bread of whatever shape, and biscuit, rolls, etc., are much nicer if when almost baked they are carefully moved out on oven shelf and brushed, using the pastry brush, with the Roll Glaze, which is two yolks beaten with twice their bulk in water and half teaspoon sugar, and then returned to oven till done. When removed from the oven, take the loaves out of the pan, grease the entire outer crust with melted butter, and tilt them on edge, so as to secure a free circulation of air. It is bet- ter not to cover bread while warm, unless with a light cloth to keep off flies. Thoroughly exposed to the air the surface cools Urst, in- suring a crisp crust and the retention of the moisture in the loaf. There are those, however, who follow successfully the plan of wrap- ping bread, as soon as it is removed from the oven, in a coarse towel or bread-cloth. Never put warm bread next to wood, as the part in contact will have a bad taste. Spread a cloth over the table before placing the bread on it ; or have an oaken board for the purpose, covered with heavy white flannel, and over this spread a fresh linen bread-cloth, and lay the bread on it right side up, with a thin covering to keep off flies, placing it at once in the fresh air ] to cool ; but the "bread cooler" illustrated on page 20 is better than either of the above ways. The best pan for bread, and many prefer it for cake, is made of Russia iron (which is but little more costly than tin and will last many times as long), about four by ten inches on the bottom, flaring to the top, and about- four and one-half inches deep. The pan should be greased very lightly. If by accident or neglect the bread is baked too hard, rub the loaf over with butter, wet a towel and wrap it in it, and cover with another dry towel. In winter, bread dough may be kept sweet several days by placing it where it will be cold without freezing, or by putting it so deep into the flour barrel as to exclude it entirely from the air. When wanted for use, make into bread, or, by adding the proper in- gredients, into cake, rusk,biscmi+, apple dumplings, chicken pie, etc. Russia Irou Pan. BREAD-MAKING. 17 When the hread is cold, place in a stone Jar or tin box. which 1 must be thoroughly washed, scalded and dried each bak- ing day. Another good receptacle for bread is a tin wash- boiler with a close cover, kept for this purpose alone, but a still better one is the tin box with shelves as illus- trated. When small single loaf pans are used, the bread may be removed to cool, thS" pans washed and dried, Bread 4^eBoi. and the loaves afterwards replaced each in its pan, and then set away in a box or boiler. The pan helps to keep the bread moist and palatable for several days. There are three critical points in the process of bread-making : the condition of the yeast, which must never be used if sour ; the temperature where the bread is set to rise, which must not be so hot as to scald ; and the temperature of the oven, which must be uni- form, neither too hot nor too cold. In cutting warm bread for the table, heat the knife, and whether hot or cold, cut only as much as will < B^iijiiiiLS|lailliSiStiBBB^B^S^ be eaten. It is better to replenish the Bread Knite. bread-plate once or even twice during a meal than to have slices left over to dry, up and waste. When using coal, put into the fire-box enough to finish the bak- ing ; adding more during the process is apt to render the oven-heat irregular. When wood is used, make a good hot fire, see that the stove has a good, free draft, and let it cool to an even, steady heat before putting the bread in the oven. The finest bread may be com- pletely spoiled in baking, and a freshly-made fire can not be easily regulated. Attention to neatness, important in all cookery, is doubly im- portant in bread-making. Be sure that the hair is neatly combed and put up (which ought to be done before the dress is put on in the morning), and that the hands, arms and finger-nails are scru- pulously clean. A neat calico apron with bib, using safety pins in fastening, and sleeves of dress well-tucked up and fastened so that they will not come down, add much to the comfort in this the most important task of the kitchen queen. A great advance has been made in milling during the past few years, the flour made by the "New Pr ^ess," as it is called, being much 2 18 BKEAD-MAKING. more nutritious than the old-fashioned white flour, which contained very little of the gluten of the wheat. The "New Process" flour made at the great Minneapolis mills from the hard spring wheat grown in the Northwest, brings the highest price of any flour in the market and is the strongest and best. Another flour known as the Whole Wheat Flour is excellent for bread-making and is reduced as is claimed by a secret process. It is made into bread by the same recipes as white flour. Many preparations of wheat and grain are sold by grocers which are prepared by some special process, and are excellent in their way, though more expensive than the plain flour. Among these are the Health Food. Granula and various prepara- tions of the kind. Graham is often made from the poorest wheat, but some mills, like Readshaw's at Dansville, New York, make a specialty of Graham, cracked wheat, and rye flour, and corn meal from selected grain, and furnish a choice article which is much more wholesome and just as cheap as the inferior article. Cerealine, a new preparation, is a flaky substance, the product of white Indian corn, readily soluble, easily digested, and containing a large pro- portion of nitrogenous matter. A valuable peculiarity of this pro- duct is that it can not be prepared from unsound grain. It is certainly the highest and most scientific product of corn that has been introduced for public consideration, and is sometimes called Shredded Maize. It somewhat resembles cocoanut, only it is in small flakes, but when sprinkled on cake has quite the appear- ance of cocoanut. Griddle cakes, mufiins, bread, breakfast rolls and sweet puddings are delicious made of it, and in fact it can enter into the preparing of any recipe where flour is used, using generally half cerealine and half flour. There is also a brown-bread preparation, recently introduced, which saves much of the difficult details necessary to make this ex- cellent Boston dish; and when two boiled potatoes are rubbed through a sieve, thinned with nearly a pint'' of water and then the meals added, or the directions with package as above followed, the bread is simply perfect. For fuller directions in regard to flours, etc., see Marketing. GRAHAM AND CORN BREAD. It is very desirable that every family should have a constant supply of bread made of unbolted flour, or rye and Iiidian corn. Most persons find it palatable,and it promotes BREAD-MAKING. 19 health. For these coarse breads always add a little brown sugar or molasses, and the amount given in the recipes may be increased ac. cording to taste. They rise quicker and in a less warm atmosphere than without sweetening. A little lard or butter improves bread or cakes made of Graham or Indian meal, rendering them light and tender. Graham rises rather more quickly than fine flour (as the whole wheat flour contains a larger proportion of gluten, and fermen- tation is more rapid), and should not be allowed to rise quite as light. The pans should be greased more thoroughly for Graham and corn bread than for that made from fine flour. The fire should be steady and sufficient to complete the baking, and the oven hot when the bread is put in. -A fresh blaze will burn the crust, while a steady fire will sweeten it. Graham bread bakes more slowly than fine-flour bread, and corn bread requires more time and a hotter oven than either. Use either yellow or white corn, ground coarse, for mush, and white, ground fine, for bread, etc. In cutting the lat- ter while warm, heat the knife, and hold it perpendicularly. Rye is said to absorb more moisture from the air than any other grain; hence, all bread from this meal needs a longer application of heat, and keeps moister after being baked than that made from other grain. Rye meal is much better than rye flour for making all kinds of bread and mufiins, but the meal, like the old fashioned corn or Indian meal, grows musty in a short time in hot weather, so that but a small quantity should be bought at a time. In most families there is a large amount of corn or Indian meal used, but the quantity purchased at a time depends upon the kind of meal selected. The common kind, which is made by grinding between two mill-stones, retains a great deal of moisture, and, in hot weather, will soon grow musty ; but the granulated meal will keep for any length of time. The corn for this meal is flrst dried ; and it takes about two years for this. Then the outer husks are re- moved, and the corn is ground by a process that produces grains like granulated, sugar. After once using this meal one will not will- ingly go back to the old kind. Indian meal is made from two kinds of corn, Northern and Southern. The former gives the yellow meal, and is much richer than the Southern, of which white meal is made. All steamed brown breads are better when put to steam over cold water which is then brought to boiling point and kept constantly boiling until the bread is done. Sweet milk may be used in place of 20 BREAD-MAKING. sour, and vice versa, remembering that the proportions are one level teaspoon soda to one pint sour milk, and with sweet milk two heap- ing teaspoons baking powder, or two teaspoons cream tartar and one of soda, to one quart flour. Sponge for Winter Use. — Peel, and boil four or five medium sized potatoes in two quarts water (which will boil down to one quart by the time the potatoes are cooked) ; when done, take out and press through a colander, or mash very fine in the crock in which the sponge is to be made ; make a well in the center, into which put one cup flour, and pour over it the boiling water from the potatoes ; stir thoroughly, and when cool add a pint of tepid water, flour enough to make a thin batter, and one cup yeast. This sponge makes very moist bread. Bread Sponge and Bread. — Six potatoes boiled and mashed while hot, two tablespoons each white sugar and butter, one quart tepid water ; into this stir three cups flour ; beat to a smooth batter, add six tablespoons yeast; set overnight, and in the morning knead in sufficient flour to make a stiff, spongy dough ; knead vig- orously for fifteen minutes, set away to rise, and when light knead for ten minutes ; mold out into moderate-sized loaves, and let rise until they are like delicate or sponge-cake. Bread Sponge and Bread. — Five pints warm water, five quarts sifted flour, one coffee-cup yeast ; mix in a two-gallon stone jar, cover closely, and set in a large tin pan, so that if the sponge rises over the top of the jar the drippings may fall into the pan. Set to rise the evening before baking. In the winter be careful to set in a warm place. In the morning sift six quarts flour into a pail, pour the sponge into a bread-pan or bowl, add two tablespoons salt, then the flour gradually ; mix and knead well, using up nearly all the flour. This first kneading is the most important, and should occupy at least twenty minutes. Make the bread in one large loaf, set away in a warm place, and cover with a cloth. It ought to rise in half an hour, when it should be kneaded thoroughly again for ten minut«s. Then take enough dough for three good-sized loaves (a quart bowl of dough to each), give five minutes' kneadingto each loaf, and place to rise in a dripping- pan well greased with lard. The loaves will be light in five Cooler for Br.ad after BaUns. Qr tCU mlnUtCS, HUd Wlll bake in a properly heated oven in half an hour. Make a well in the cen- ter of the remaining dough, and into it put a half tea-cup of white Bugar, one tea-cup of lard, and two eggs, which mix thoroughly with BREAD-MAKING. 21 the dough, knead into one large loaf, set in a warm place about fifteen minutes to rise, and, when light, knead five minutes and let rise again for about ten minutes, when it should be light. Take out of pan and knead on bread-board, roll about an inch in thickness, cut out with a biscuit-cutter, and place in dripping-pan ; let rise five minutes and bake twenty minutes. In winter more time must be allowed for rising. This makes three loaves and ninety biscuit. Bread. — Set sponge at nine o'clock in the evening in summer, and keep it in a cool place ; or at noon and make it up in the even- ing. _ Do not keep in the cellar or it will sour. In the winter set it at six o'clock at night and place where it will keep warm. For the sponge use one yeast cake soaked in lukewarm water, three potatoes boiled and mashed fine and one pint flour. Scald with the boiling potato water, adding the yeast after the mixture has become cool, and mixing to a smooth paste. Add a teaspoon salt and beat fifteen minutes. When the sponge foams it is risen sufl&ciently ; then add a pint warm water and flour to make a smooth dough that will not stick to the fingers, set in a warm place, and when full of cells work in all the fiour possible. Let it rise and knead until the gas stops craoJcing. Make into loaves, let rise, and increase the heat of the oven after the first twenty minutes of baking. Apple Bread. — To make bread from apples or other fruits, pare them, put them over the fire and stew them tender, adding a little sugar if they are very sour ; then pulp them through a sieve. Use this pulp as the basis of bread ; mix one pound of fruit pulp with two pounds flour, teaspoon salt, one gill liquid yeast, and water enough to make a soft dough ; knead, make into loaves, let rise and bake as ordinary bread. Pears and other fruits may also be used, the fact being remembered that the juice of fruit must not be ex- tracted, but must be allowed to replace water or rhilk in making'the bread. Fruit breads should be eaten with some precaution, as their action may be laxative ; in this connection it may be well to give a good recipe for a harmless vegetable bread of the same nature. Bean Bread. — The use of potatoes in bread is well known, but not so the fact that beans, parsnips, carrots, turnips, beets and' sweet potatoes may be employed either for purposes of variety or economy ; any of these vegetables may be used after being boiled and reduced to a puree, or pulp, according to the directions given above, care be- ing taken to extract their moisture by rolling the puree lengthwise in a strong towel, and then squeezing it as dry as possible by having the ends of the towel twisted tight by two persons. Bread with Buttermilk. — The evening before baking, bring to the boiling point two quarts buttermilk (or boil sour milk and take the same quantity of the whey), and pour into a crock in which 22 BEEAB-MAKING. a scant tea-cup sifted flour has been placed. Let stand till suffi- ciently cool, then add half a cup of yeast, and flour to make a thick batter ; the better and longer the sponge is stirred the whiter will be the bread. In the morning sift the flour into the bread-pan, pour the sponge in the center, stir in some of the flour, and let stand until after breakfast; then mix, kneading for about half an hour, the longer the better ; when light, mold into loaves, this time kneading as little as possible. The secret of good bread is having good yeast, and not baking too hard. This makes four loaves and forty biscuit. Hop- Yeast Bread. — One tea-cup yeast, three pints warm water ; make a thin sponge at tea time, cover and let it remain two hours or until very light. By adding the water to the flour first and having the sponge quite warm, it is never necessary to put the sponge over hot water or in an oven to make it rise. Knead into a loaf before going to bed ; in the morning mold into three loaves, spreading a Httle lard between as they are put in the pan. When light, bake one hour, having oven quite hot when the bread is put in, and very modT erate when it is done. (Bread made in this way is never sour or heavy. ) To have fine, light biscuit, add shortening at night, and in the morning make into biscuit and bake for breakfast. By this re- cipe bread is baked before the stove is cold from breakfast, and out of the way for other baking. Bread with Potato Sponge. — Pare and boil four or five potatoes, mash fine,' and add one pint flour"; pour on the mixture first boil- ing water enough to moisten well, then about one quart cold water, after which add flour enough to make stiff batter. When cooled to "scarcely milk-warm," put in one-half pint (or more will do no harm^ of yeast, and let it stand in a warm place overnight ; in the morning add to this sponge one cup lard, stir in flour, and knead well. The more kneading the finer and whiter the bread will be ; pounding also with a potato-masher improves the bread greatly, and is rather easier than so much kneading. When quite stiff and well worked and pounded, let it rise again, and when light make into loaves or biscuit, adding no more flour except to flour the 'hands and. board — merely enough to prevent the bread from sticking. Let it rise again, then bake ; and immediately after taking from the oven wrap in a wet towel until partly cold, in order to soften the crust. If yeast and Hour are good (essentials in all cases), the above process will make good bread. Poor- Man's Bread. — One pint buttermilk or sour milk, one level teaspoon soda, a pinch of salt, and flour enough to make as fitiff as soda-biscuit dough ; cut into three pieces, handle as little as possible, roll an inch thick, place in dripping-pan, bake twenty or thirty minutes in a hot oven, and when done wrap in a bread cloth. Eat while warm, breaking open like a biscuit. Each cake will be about the size of a pie. BREAD-MAKING. 23 Bread with Potatoes. — To one quart blood-warm water or milk (if milk is used, it must first be scalded and then cooled to blood heat), take two quarts sifted flour and one tea-cup fresh potato yeast. Put the milk or water into a one-gallon stone crock and stir the flour gradually into it, then add the yeast, beating it vigorously for fifteen minutes ; set to rise in a warm place, putting the crock in a pan (to catch the drippings if it should run over). If in winter, mix it as early as six or seven o'clock in the evening. Cover very closely with a clean white cloth, with a blanket over it, kept purpose- ly for this (the cloths for bread should not be used for any thing else). In the morning, sift three quarts of flour into the bread-pan, setting it in the oven for a few minutes to bring it to the same tem- perature as the sponge. Pare six medium-sized potatoes, and boil them in three pints water; when thoroughly cooked, remove the' potatoes and pour the boiling hot water (which will now be about one quart) over the flour, stirring it with a spoon. Mash the pota- toes very fine, and beat them as if for the table ; mix them in the flour, and when cooled to blood heat pour in the sponge, and mix well. Add more wetting or flour if needed, rub off all that adheres to the sides of the pan, and mix with the dough, kneading it from forty-five minutes to one hour; then place the pan to rise, cover closely with the cloth and blanket, setting it where there is no draft (this is imperative). When it has risen to twice its size, knead down in the pan, take one quart of dough for each loaf, knead each five minutes with quick, elastic movements, grease the sides of the loaves with sweet, melted butter if two or miore are placed in the same pan ; or the loaves may be greased all over lightly before placing in the pan, a process which adds much to the sweetness of the crust. The pan should be thoroughly but lightly greased. Let rise until as large again as when molded, then bake. Have your oven moderately heated at first, with a fire in the stove that will keep it of a uniform temperature. (For manner of testing oven, see general instructions for bread-making). Bake from three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a quarter, according to the size of the loaves, during which time the bread should be carefully watched to see that the proper de- gree of heat is steadily kept up. Before browning they will have risen to double their size when placed in the oven. The heat of the oven is all important, for if too hot the loaves will not rise suffi- ciently; if too cold they will rise too much, and the bread will be coarse and porous. When done, place on side, and cool without covering. Never use flour without sifting, as sifting enlivens and serates the floor, and makes both mixing and rising easier and quick- er. Quick rising makes whiter bread, and it is very necessary that in all its difierent risings bread should be mixed as soon as ready. Bread Raised Once. — No other yeast is made with so little trouble as potato yeast. Bread made from it keeps moist longer, and 24 BRKAD-MAKING. there is no danger of injuring the flavor of the bread by using too much. When plentifully used, a beautiful, light, sweet, fine-grained bread is produced by only one rising, thus saving not only time and trouble. But also, what is more important, the sweet flavor and nutri- tious qualities which greatly sufier by the second fermentation, almost universally practiced. When this fact is thoroughly understood, every one will appreciate the importance of checking excessive fer- mentation, during which decomposition actually takes place, and the delicate, foamy loaves, "yeasted to death," which so many fam- ilies now use and call the " staff of life," will give place to the sweet, substantial, home-made loaves, such as our good mothers and grand- mothers kneaded with their own skilled hands. Take care that the yeast is good and " lively," for, without this, failure is certain. To make three loaves of bread, warm and lightly grease the baking-pans, sift three quarts or more of flour into the bread-pan, press down the middle, and into it put two small table- spoons of fine salt ; pour in slowly one quart of mUk-warm water, constantly stirring with one hand in the flour, until a thin batter is formed ; add a pint or more of potato yeast or one tea-cup of hop yeast, or one yeast cake dissolved in warm water, or a piece of compressed yeast as large as a walnut, dissolved in the same manner. Mix thoroughly, adding more and more flour, until a stiff dough is formed; place on the bread-board, knead vigor- ously for twenty minutes or more, flouring the board frequently to prevent the dough from sticking to it, divide into loaves of a size to suit pans, mold into a comely shape, place in pans, rub over the top a light coating of sweet, drawn butter, set in a warm, not too hot place to rise, cover lightly to keep off dust and air, watch and oc- casionally, turn the pans around when necessary, to make the loaves rise evenly ; when risen to about double the original size, draw across the top of each lengthwise with a sharp knife, making a slit half an inch deep, place them in a moderately heated oven, and bake one hour, watching carefully from time to time to make certain that a proper degree of heat is kept up. Before browning they will rise to double the size of loaf which was placed in the oven, arid pans must be provided deep enough to retain them in shape. Bake until well done and nicely browned. Nothing adds more to the sweetness and digestibility of wheaten bread than thorough baking. When done remove from pans immediately, to prevent the sweating and soft- ening of the crust. Bread Raised Twice. — Measure out four quarts sifted flour take out a pint in a cup, and place remainder in a bread-pan. Make a well in the middle, into which turn one tablespoon sugar, one of salt, and one cup yeast; then mix in one pint milk which has been made blood-warm by adding one pint boiling water; beat well with a strong spoon, add one tablespoon lard, knead for twenty to thirty minutes, and let rise overnight; in the morning knead BREAD-MAKING. 25 again — slashing the dough with a sharp knife adds to its lightness and texture — make into loaves, let them rise one hour, and bake fifty minutes. Water may be used instead of the pint of milk, in which case use twice as much lard. Bread Raised Three Times. — Begin at about 5 p. m., plan for six loaves, somewhat larger than bakers' loaves ; take two little cakes of yeast, put them into a pint of tepid water, and when soft beat in thoroughly enough flour to make a thick batter, and put in a warm place. If the excellent " Farmer's Yeast," the recipe for which is given hereafter, is used, take half a tea-cup and stir into the batter. A good dish for this purpose is a large bowl, a broad, open pitcher, or a bright, three-quart tm pail, which should be clean in the strictest sense. This should rise in about two hours, and when nearly light, take six or eight medium-sized potatoes, pare neatly, rinse clean, and boil in three pints of water till well done, mash very fine in the water while hot. Have ready a bread-pan of sifted fiour, into which put a teaspoon of salt, half a cup of white sugar and a bit of lard as large as an egg ; then riddle the potato mash, hot as it is, through a sieve or fine colander into the flour, and stir with a kitchen spoon into a stiff dough. 'This scalds about half the fiour used in the batch of bread. This mass must cool till it will net scald the yeast, which may now be mixed in and put in a warm, not hot, place for second rising, which will be accomplished by morning, when the kneading may be done. Kneading is the finest point of bread-mak- ing, and contains more of the art than any other ; it requires skill, time, patience and hard work. Work in flour no faster than is re- quired to allow thorough kneading, which can not be done in less than forty-five minutes, but should not be worked, much over an hour ; one hour is a good uniform rule. The mechanical bakers use sets of rollers driven by steam power, between which the dough is passed, coming out a sheet an inch thick ; it is folded together several times and rolled again and again. This process should be imitated somewhat by the hands in the family kitchen. The work- ing of the dough gives grain and flakiness to the bread. The dough when kneaded should be soft, but not sticky — stiff enough to retain its roundness on the board. Put back into the pan for the third ris- , ing, which will require but little time, and when light cut ofi" enough for each loaf by itself. Knead but little, and put into the baking- pans. If the first kneading has been well done, no more flour will be needed in molding into loaves. These must remain in the baking pans till nearly as large as the loaves ought to be, when they may toe put into a well heated oven. If the oven is a trifle too hot, or if it tends to bake hard on the top, a piece of brown paper may be put over the loaves (save some clean grocer's paper for this purpose), and from forty to sixty minutes will bake it thoroughly. After the loaves are put into the baking-pans, avoid jarring them, as it will make portions of them heavy. 26 BREAD-MAKING. If the yeast is " set " at 5 p. m. the bread will be ready for dinner next day ; if in the morning, the baking will be done early in the evening, ot twelve hours after, with fair temperature and good yeast. Bread made in this way will be good for a week, and with fair weather and careful keepihg, even two weeks. When dry, a slice toasted will be as crisp, sweet and granular as Yankee ginger-bread. Bread Making Made Easy. — This quantity is for eight loaves but may be varied at pleasure. Three quarts warm water, in which melt a luflap of butter the size of a hen's egg. Stir in flour sufficient to make a smooth, thick batter. Then add a bowlful of yeast which must be well stirred in. Now with the hands knead in more flour until the dough is firm, smooth and elastic, and will not adhere to the hands. Cover closely and set in a warm place overnight. You cannot be too careful in keeping the cold air from it, for if once chilled the bread will not be so light and sweet. Next morning the dough will be as light as a foam, and before it begins to subside take out on bread-board and chop with a chopping knife for five minutes or even less will do. It will scarcely be necessary to add any more flour. Mold into loaves and when light, bake. It will be seen that this requires but two risings, thereby retaining much of the sweetness of the flour which passes off in fermentation. Set the sponge at 8 o'clock in the evening, and chop and mold into loaves before break- fast nfext morning, and by the time breakfast is over it is light enough for the oven. Bread in Summer or Winter. — In summer take three pints of cold or tepid water, four tablespoons yeast, one teaspoon salt; stir in flour enough to make a thick sponge (rather thicker than griddle-cakes). Let stand until morning, then add more flour, mix stiff and knead ten minutes ; place in a pan, let rise until light, knead for another ten minutes ; mold into four loaves and set to rise, but do not let it get too light ; bake in a moderate oven one hour. If bread is mixed at six o'clock in the morning the baking ought to be done by ten o'clock. In winter take one pint of buttermilk or clabbered milk, let it scald (not boil) ; make a well in the center of the flour, into it turn the hot milk, add one teaspoon salt, enough flour and water to make sufficient sponge, and one tea-cup of yeast ; let stand until morning and then prepare the bread as in summer". This is more convenient to make in winter, since a hot fire is needed to heat the milk. Bread with Compressed Yeast. — When it is possible to obtain fresh compressed yeast, also called German yeast, an excellent bread can be made in about two hours and a half; the rapidity of the leavening or " raising " the dough is advantageous, because less of the nutritive elements of the flour are lost than by following the long process ; for two loaves of bread use three pounds of flour BREAD-MAKING. 27 about a quart of water, two teaspoons salt, and an ounce of fresh compressed yeast ; dissolve the yeast in a pint of lukewarna water ; stir in sufficient flour to make a thick batter or sponge, cover with a folded towel, and set it in a warm place to rise ; if properly covered and heated it will rise to a light foam in about half an hour ; then stir into it the salt, dissolved in a little warm water ; add the rest of the flour and sufficient lukewarm water to make a dough stiff" enough to knead ; knead it five minutes ; divide it into two loaves, put theni into buttered baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and set them in a warm place to rise twice their height ; then bake them as directed in the preceding recipe for raised bread. In raising the -sponge be sure that the heat is not sufficient to ''scald" or harden it, as that will prevent fermentation ; therefore do not place it where the hand can not be held with comfort ; keep it covered from draughts. If, when it is light, it has become at all soured, as it sometimes will in summer, stir into it before adding the balance of the flour a salt- spoon baking-soda, dissolved in a very little luke-warm water. The dough made for home-made bread can be baked as raised biscuit ; and it can be made a little sweeter by kneading in with it a tablespoon each of sugar and melted butter ; or it can be boiled in soups and stews as raised dumplings. To test th&heat of the oven follow this method : The "moderate oven" temperature is that degree of heat which will turn ordinary writing-paper dark yellow or buff", that is the color of kindling-wood ; put a sheet of paper in the oven and close the door ; if the paper blazes the oven is too hot ; arrange the dampers to lower the heat for ten minutes; then again test it with more paper; it may be necessary to try the temperature several times, but the time thus used is well spent. Another simple way of testing the heat of the oven is to hold the hand in it after it has been closed for some time ; if the hand can be held there without burning for quarter of a min- ute the heat is good. Quick Bread. — Peel ten potatoes, boil, drain, saving water, and mash thoroughly ; add three tablespoons each sugar and salt, three of flour scalded in half pint water; mix and add a quart of the boiling potato-water, also five quarts tepid water and a cup of soft yeast. Put in a warm place till it foams nicely, then put away to cool. When thoroughly cold, seal or cork tightly and put in a cool place. To make the bread, sift flour in pan, for number, of .loaves re- ?uired and wet it with some of the above prepared rising, warmed, very important) and nothing else ; when well mixed mold into loaves and put in a warm place to rise ; if directions are strictly followed, bread will be light in two hours. Bake an hour , and thus in three hours perfect bread can be made ^nd baked. By adding to part of the dough when mixed for the loaves, half teacup lard or butter, one\8gg and three tablespoons sugar, let rise and then make into biscuit, let jise again and bake, taking for all an hour and a half more — ^this 28 BEEAD-MAKING. gives biscuits or rolls in less than four hours, as soon as with com- pressed yeast, with the advantage of the rising being home-made. This comes strongly endorsed by an experienced bread baker. Salt-Rismg^ Bread. — The leaven for this bread is prepared thus : Take a pint of warm water — about 90° — (if a little too hot defeat is certain) in a perfectly clean bowl and stir up a thick bat- ter, adding only a teaspoon of salt : a thorough beating of the batter is important. Set in a pan of warm water to secure uniformity of temperature, and in two to four hours it will begin to rise. The ris- ing is much more sure if coarse flour or " shorts " is used instead of fine flour. When the " rising " is nearly light enough, take a pint of milk and a pint of boiling water, (a tablespoon of lime water added is good and often prevents souring) mix the sponge in the bread-pan, and when cooled to about milk-warm, stir in the rising. The sponge thus made will be light in two to four hours, with good warmth. The dough requires less kneading than yeast-raised dough. The bread is simpler, but not so certain of rising, and you leave out all the ingre- dients save the flour, water (milk is not essential), and a pinch of salt. It should be made more frequently as it dries faster than bread containing potatoes. Another Salt-Rising Bread. — In summer take at night one (scant) pint of new milk, half as much hot water, which will make the whole lukewarm, a teaspoon salt, one of sugar and a very little soda. Mix all in a nice, sweet pitcher (it must be perfectly clean and sweet), stir in one tablespoon of corn meal and add flour enough to make a medium batter ; or, use the " lightning yeast " given hereafter, or stir the rising as recommended above with " mid- dlings " or shorts, leaving out the soda and sugar ; stir well, place the pitcher in an iron kettle with quite warm water, using so much water that the pitcher will barely rest on the bottom of the kettle ; cover closely and leave all night (on the stove if the fire is nearly out) where it will be kept warm, not hot, for an hour or two. A 'quart pitcher should be full in the morning ; if not, add a spoon of flour, stir well, warm the water in the kettle, replace the pitcher, cover, and keep it warm until light. Have ready two quarts of sifted flour in a pan, make a hole in the center, put in an even teaspoon of salt, a tea-cup of nearly boiling water ; add one pint of new milk, and stir a batter there in the center of the flour, add the " empty- ings " from the pitcher and stir well (there will be a good deal of flour all round the batter, and the top should be well sprinkled with flour) ; cover with another pan, keep warm until light — it will rise in an hour or even less, the batter showing through cracks in the flour —when it should be %oell and quickly Icneaded, and made directly into loaves, which place in the baking-pans, keep well covered and warm until light, when it is ready to bake. If left standing too long BREAD-MAKING. 29 an unpleasant odor rises. The secret of success is to keep it warm but not at all hot. This bread is good if no milk is used ; indeed, some prefer it made with water alone instead of milk and water. In cold weather, if kitchen is cold at night, do not set " emptyings " over night, but. make early in the morning. Sweet Potato Bread. — Boil three large sweet potatoes, peel and mash them through a colander with a potato-masher, adding tea- spoon salt and tablespoon butter ; after they have been mashed, mix with them one cup and a half corn meal, a scant cup milk, and one egg beaten smooth ; pour batter into a buttered baking-pan, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Use the bread hot with plenty of butter. Boston Brown Bread. — One heaping coffee-cup each of corn, rye and Graham meal. The rye meal should be as fine as the Gra- ham, or rye flour may be used. Sitt the three kinds together as closely as possible, and beat together thoroughly with two cups New Orleans or Porto Rico molasses, two cups sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one dessert-spoon soda, one teaspoon salt ; pour into a tin form, place in a kettle of cold water, put on and boil four hours. Put on to cook as soon as mixed. It may appear to be too thin, but it is not, as this recipe has never been known to -g^^^^^Il^x fail. Serve warm, with baked beans or Thanks- ^SRL ^^ giving turkey. The bread should not quite fill the ^^-3_^^«^ form (or a tin pail with cover will answer), as ^h ~" Jlj[|(W it must have room to swell. See that the water ^H -Jl| 1 1|^ does not boil up to the top of the form ; also lE ^laifflw take care it does not boil entirely away or stop ^fc^pl^^p^ boiling. To serve it, remove the lid and set it a ^Y few moments into the open oven to dry the top, tiiP"™ rot Bread, and it will then turn out in perfect shape. This bread can be used as a pudding, and served with a sauce made of thick soiir cream, well sweetened and seasoned with nutmeg ; or it is good toasted the next day. - Boston Brown Bread. — Boil and mash fine six potatoes and make into a sponge with one cup yeast, three cups flour and one qiiart warm water, adding two tablespoons eaejh of lard and brown sugar. When light, sift into the bread tray two quarts Indian meal, one quart rye or wheat flour and one tablespoon each of soda and salt. Pour the risen sponge into this and mix, adding warm water if needed, and work in gradually a half cup molasses. Knead well and let rise six or seven hours, knead again, make into loaves, let rise one hour and bake in moderate oven. Eastern Brown Bread. — One pint each of rye or Graham and Indian meal, one cup molasses, three- fourths cup sour milk, one and one-half teaspoons soda, one and one-half pints cold water. Put on stove over cold water, steam four hours and brown over in the oven. 30 BREAD-MAKING. Brown Bread. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, and one-half cup molasBes ; into these put one heaping teaspoon soda, two cm)s corn meal, one cup Graham flour and one teaspoon salt Use coflfee cups. Steam three hours, and afterwards hrown in oven Brown Bread with Baking Powder. — One and a fourth cups sweet milk, one cup each corn meal and Graham, one-half cup mo- lasses, two heaping teaspoons haking powder, or use sour milk and soda. Measure in coflee-cups. Steam three or four hours. Can be made on Saturday and re-steamed for Sunday morning breakfast. Brown Bread with Mush. — Pour two quarts hot com meal mush, made as for eating, over two quarts Graham flour (wheat may be used) ; when cool add three pints sponge, one cofiee-cup molasses, teaspoon salt, half teaspoon soda ; mix well together with a spoon or the hands, add one quart flour, to make it a stiff batter, and place in small bread pans (such as are described in the preceding preface on baking bread), filling them a little more than half full and smoothing over with a spoon dipped in water! Let rise till there is a seam or crack in the loaf, then bake in a moderate oven ; when done, rub over with butter, place on the side, wrap in a cloth, and when cold put in a jar or box. Boston Corn Bread. — One ciip sweet milk, two cups sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, one cup flour, four cups corn meal, two tea- spoons soda ; steam three hours, and brown a few minutes in the oven. Boiled Corn Bread. — One and one-fourth pints each of sweet ndw* and buttermilk or sour cream, half a pint molasses, one tea- spoon soda, three teaspoons cream tartar, one even tablespK)on salt, one and a fourth pints each of corn meal and flour ; sift the soda and cream tartar in the flour ; mix all the ingredients thoroughly together and put iil a buttered tin pail ; cover closely, place in a ket- tle two-thirds full of boiling water : cover, and boil steadily for three hours, replenishing when needful with boiling water. To be eaten hot with Dutter. Corn Bread. — One pint corn meal sifted, one pint flour, one pint souj milk, two eggs beaten hght, one-half cup sugar, piece of butter size of an egg; add, the last thing, one teaspoon soda in a little milk; add to the beaten egg the milk and meal alternately, then the butter and sugar. If sweet milk is used, add one teaspoon cream tartar ; bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Steamed Corn Bread. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, (butter-milk if you have it), two cups corn meal, one cup flour, two tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon soda, one tablespoon salt, two eggs, put in a cake pan with stem in center, place in a steamer, and steam three hours, or longer, keep closely covered, put in stove BREAD-MAKING. 31 fifteen minutes to brown before sending to table ; set in a pan of cold water a few minutes and it will turn out nicely. Corn Bread. — Take one quart buttermilk and one heaping pint corn meal, one teaspoon soda, one of salt, one tablespoon sugar and three eggs ; have .the stove very hot, and do not bake in too deep a pan. The batter seems too thin, but bakes very nicely. The Bread of Our Forefathers. — Put in a pan two quarts of meal, a half-pint of flour, stir up well ; pour in the center a pint of boiling water, stir up enough of the meal to make a thin batter j when cool, put in a cup of yeast, a teaspoon of salt and enough warm water to make a thick batter ; let rise, then place in a deep, well-greased pan, cover with another pan, and place in a moderate oven. When nearly done, remove the cover, and bake slowly until done. Excellent when cold. All baking-pans for bread should be made with covers, made of the same material, and high enough to permit the bread to rise to its full size. If pan is deep enough to permit the bread to rise without touching it, a flat piece of tin or sheet-iron will answer for the cover, or a cover may be made of paper, or another pan may be inverted over the bread. The office of the cover is to prevent the crust from browning hard before the expansion of the gases has made the bread light and porous. Plain Corn Bread. — One well-heaped pint corn meal, one pint sour or buttermilk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt; bake in dripping or gem pans. If preferred, one heaping tablespoon of sugar may be added. Steamed Corn Bread. — Two cups each of corn meal, Graham flour and sour milk, two-thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda ; steam two hours and a half. Oraham Bread. — Take a little over a quart of warm water, one" half cup brown sugar or molasses, one-fourth cup hop yeast, and one and one-half teaspoons salt ; thicken the water with unbolted flour to a thin batter ; add sugar, salt and yeast, and stir in more . flour until quite stiff. In the morning add a small teaspoon soda, and flour enough to make the batter stiff as can be stirred with a spoon ; put it into pans and let rise again ; then bake in even oven, not too hot at first ; keep warm while rising; smooth over the loaves with a spoon or knife dipped in water. Oraham Bread. — To one and a half pints of tepid water add one heaping teaspoon of salt and one-half cup of sugar ; stir in one-half pint or more of the sponge made of white flour, as in re- cipe for " Bread with Potato Yeast ;" add Graham flour until almost too stiif to stir ; put in the baking-pan and let rise well, which willr 32 BEEAD-MAKING. take about two hours, bake in a moderate oven, and when done, wrap in a wet towel until cool. Some prefer to add one egg and a tablespoon lard or butter. Graham Bread. — Mix smooth two quarts Graham flour and quart warm water ; add half a cake compressed yeast dissolved in warm water, put into a deep sheet iron bread pan and when light bake one hour. The dough should be as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. Oraham Bread with Baking Powder. — Three cups Graham flour, one teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder, half cup sugar and two and one-half cups sweet milk, or use half milk and halt water. Sift the flour and baking powder together and add milk, salt and sugar quickly. Bake in rather hot oven for forty or fifty minutes, protecting with thick brown paper the first fifteen minutes. Oraham Bread with Soda. — Mix one cup warm water with two tablespoons syrup, one-half teaspoon soda and one cup white flour. Stir in Graham flour with a spoon until stiff. Set in a warm place one-half hour to rise and bake one and one-fourth hours. Graham Bread, Steamed. — Two cups Graham, two cups Indian meal, two cups sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one cup mo- lasses, one teaspoon soda, a little salt. Steam Pan f„r stemnins Bread, two hours and dry a few minutes in hot oven. Quick Graham Bread. — One and a half pints sour milk, half cup New Orleans molasses, a little salt, two teaspoons soda dissolved in a little hot water, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon ; pour in well-greased pan, put in oven as soon as mixed and bake two hours. Bye Bread with Soda. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, two- thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon salt, two cups sifted wheat flour and three and one-half cups rye meal — or if preferred all rye may be used. Bake in a loaf or gem pans. B^/e and Indian Bread. — One quart of rye meal or rye flour, two quarts of Indian meal, scalded (by placing in a pan and pouring just enough hoiling water over it, stirring constantly with a spoon, to merely wet it, but not enough to make it into a batter), one-half teacup molasses, two teaspoons salt, one of soda, one teacup yeast ; make as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with warm 'water, and let rise all night ; then put in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold water, let it stand a short time and bake five or six hours. If put in the oven late in the day, let it remain all night. Graham may be used instead of rye and baked as above. In the olden time it was placed in kettle, allowed to rise, then placed on the hearth before the fire, with coals on top of lid, and baked. BREAD-MAKING. 33 Rye Bread. — Make a sponge of one quart warm water, one tea- cup yeast,- thickened with rye flour ; put in warm place to rise over night ; scald one pint corn meal ; when cool add it to sponge, and add rye flour till thick enough to knead, knead hut little, let rise, mold into loaves, place in deep pie-tins or small pudding-pans, let rise and bake ; or, thicken the sponge with rye flour, and proceed as above. Wheat sponge may be used instead of rye. Hye Bread. — Make sponge as for wheat bread, let rise over- night, then mix it up with the rye flour as stiif as can be kneaded, add to the quantity for three loaves of bread, two cups molasses and a very little grated orange peel. Let rise, mold into loaves and when risen, bake. Vienna Bread. — In some bakeries a peculiar gloss is given to the surface of Vienna bread by the introduction of a jet of steam into the oven while the bread is baking ; but if when the bread made at home is half baked it is brushed over with a soft sponge Wet in milk the loaf will present a glossy crust. No particular kind of oven is required, but it is necessary that the bread should be baked at a temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit. In the bakeries the dough is mixed in zinc-lined wooden troughs, but an ordinary earthen bread bowl may be used. The temperature of the room in which the bread is made should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the milk and water used for making the bread should be of the same degree of heat ; only the best bread flour should be used. The length of time required to complete the process is about three hours and a half The proportions of an ordinary family baking are four pounds of flour, three pints of milk and water, half an ounce of salt, and one and three-quarter ounces of very fresh compressed yeast. The pro- cess of making is as follows : Place the flour in the bread bowl, and in it put the milk, water, and salt ; mix with the liquid enough of the flour to make a very thin batter ; next rub the yeast to powder between the hands, and mix it into the batter ; cover the bowl close- ly, and let it stand for three-quarters of an hour. At the end of that time mix in the rest of the flour smoothly, and let the dough thus made stand again closely covered for two hours and a half, until it is light and elastic ; then cut it into pound pieces, and each pound into twelve equal parts ; flatten these small pieces of dough in squares three-quarters of an inch thick, fold their corners to the center, pinch them down to hold them, and turn the little rolls thus made over on board covered with cloth ; let them stand for about ten minutes, turn them up again on a baking-sheet, and put them into a hot oven to bake quickly, for about fifteen minutes ; when half done brush them with milk, return them to the oven and finish baking them. This process seems to imply a little trouble to the bread-maker, but the delicious quality of the bread thus produced well repays the ex- tra pains taken in leaking it ; and a little practice will enable any person to accomplish the result successfully always. 34 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. BREAKFAST AISTU TEA OAKES. To make biscuit, take a part of the dough left from bread-making when it is ready to mold into loaves, work in the lard and any other ingredients desired, such as butter, eggs, sugar, spice, etc., also using a little more flour ; let rise once, then mix down and let rise again, turn out on the bread-board, knead a few minutes, roll, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter or mold with the hand. Place in a well-greased dripping-pan, and when light bake in a quick oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. To make them a nice color, wet the top with warm lyater just before placing in the oven. To glaze, brush lightly as soon as removed from the oven with milk and sugar, or the well beaten yolk of an egg sweetened, and a little milk added, or simply the beaten white Biscuit may be baked in eight minutes by making the oven as hot as can be without burning, and allowing it to cool off gradually as they bake ; this makes them very light, but one has to watch closely to keep them from being scorched. Any kind of bread or pastry mixed with water requires a hotter fire than that mixed with milk. Biscuit and rolls should be allowed to rise one-half longer than bread loaves, because the loaves of the former, being smaller, ar« penetrated sooner by the heat, and, of course, the fermentation is stopped sooner, and the rolls do not rise so much in the oven. Biscuit for tea at six must be molded two hours before, w- ich will give ample time for rising and baking. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 35 breakfast at eight must be made ready at five. Many think it unnec- essary to knead down either bread or biscuit as often as here di- rected ; but if attention is given to the dough at the right time, and it is not suffered to become too light it will be much nicer, whiter, and of a finer texture if these directions are followed. The almost universal custom is to set the sponge at night, but many excellent bread-makers differ widely from this in praetice and their objections deserve candid consideration in this nineteenth cen- tury, when so much is written of dyspepsia and its causes. Some medical authorities assert that cancer in the stomach has its origin in dyspepsia, which, in the beginning, is caused by the use of indi- gestible yeast bread, in which the process of fermentation has been allowed to go so far. that a certain amount of actual decomposition has taken place. This is not the fault of such recipes as are given in this book, but from failure to mix the bread at each successive rising at the 'proper time. The objection to setting sponge at night is that it stands too long. Bread, to be white, sweet and digestible, must be mixed immediately after the sponge has risen to the proper point, which may ie known hy its puffy appearance, usually rising higher in the middle than at the sides of the crock; if it sinks in the center, it has stood too long. Soda and baking powder biscuit must be handled as little and made as rapidly as possible ; mix soda and cream tartar or baking- powder in the flour (with sweet milk use baking-powder, or soda and crearh tartar, with sour milk soda alone), so that the effervesence takes place in the mixture. One teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two teaspoons baking-powder, to one quart flour, is about the right proportion. Bake in a quick oven as soon as made, and they rise more quickly if put into hot pans. Gems of all kinds re- quire a hot oven, but the fire should be built some time before they are put into the oven, and allowed to go down by the time they are light, as the heat necessary to raise them will burn them in baking if kept up. All biscuit and bread, except brown and Graham bread, should be pricked with a fork before putting in the oven. Soda and raised biscuit and bread or cake, when stale, can be made almost as nice as fresh by plunging for an instant into cold water, and then placing in a pan in the oven ten or fifteen minutes ; thus treated they should be used immediately. 36 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. Waffle-irons should be heated, then buttered or greased with lard, and one side filled with batter, closed and laid on the fire or placed on the stove, and after a few minutes turned on the other side. They take about twice as long to bake as griddle-cakes, and are delicious with a dressing of ground cinnamon. Muffins are baked in anuffin-rings. In eating them, do not cut but break them open. The success of these recipes, and all others in this book in which soda and cream tartar are used, will depend on the purity of these ingredients. Always buy the pure English bicarbonate of soda, and the jowre cream tartar. They are higher-priced, but cheaper in the end, and are free from injurious substances. When not found at the grocer's, they may generally be had at the druggist's. Baking Powder. — Sixteen ounces corn starch, eight of bicar- bonate of soda, five of tartaric acid, mix thoroughly ; or eight ounces flour, eight of English bicarbonate of soda, seven of tartaric acid ; mix thoroughly by passing several -times through a sieve. Bannocks. — Cream one pound butter with one and one-fourth pounds brown sugar, add six eggs whipped to a cream, one tea-spoon ginger, one and one-fourth pounds white Indian meal ^jBfiB^^^^^ and same of flour. Bake in small cakes in cups or vlSWW g g^ gem pans and leave in them until cold. •*"" '^'""' Bannocks. — Wet one pint Indian meal with boiling water or milk. Let stand a few minutes and add one egg, a little sweet cream or a tablespoon melted butter, and salt. ]\Iake into balls and fry in hot lard. Biscuit. — Dissolve one rounded tablespoon of butter in a pint of hot milk ; when lukewarm stir in one quart of flour, add one beaten egg, a little salt, and a cup of yeast ; work into dough un- til smooth. If winter, set in a warm place ; if summer, in a cool one to rise. In the morning work softly and foil out one-half inch thick, cut into biscuit and set to rise for thirty mifiutes, when thev will be ready to bake. These are delicious. Biscuit. — Take one quart sifted flour (loosely put in), three heaping teaspoons of Horsford's Bread Preparation^ or baking pow- der, one teaspoon salt, three gills of water ; shape with a spoon and the floured hand. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 37 Buttermilk Biscuit. — One quart flour, one teaspoon soda, butter or lard size of an egg, a little salt and buttermilk to make a soft dough. Roll out quickly and bake in hot oven. The following way of baking makes a pleasing novelty : Roll the dough thinner than ordinarily, spread well with butter previously softened, dust over thickly with white sugar and roll it up ; cut slices off from the end the thickness of ordinary biscuit, put in buttered pans and bake. Cream Biscuit. — Put three heaping tablespoons of sour cream into a bowl or pan holding a quart, and fill two-thirds full of sweet milk; add two teaspoons cream tartar, one teaspoon soda and a little salt, with flour enough to mix soft, and bake in quick oven. Fairy Biscuit. — Beat well together two ounces butter and a half pound of flour, adding the white of one egg, one teaspoon milk, four ounces sugar, two ounces sweet, well j)ounded almonds, and work well into paste. Pinch off pieces the size of a half dollar and bake on buttered paper. Hard Tea Biscuit. — Two pounds of flour, one-fourth pound butter, one salt-spoon salt, three gills milk ; cut up the butter and rub it in the flour, add the salt and milk, knead dough for half an hour, cut cakes about as large as a small tea-cup and half an inch thick, prick with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven until they are a delicate brown. High, Biscuit. — On baking days reserve one small loaf and mix a rounded tablespoon butter, a level tablespoon sugar and one egg into it by pulling it to pieces with the hands ; knead into a loaf, let it rise, then by rolling between the hands make into balls the size of a small hen's egg, place in rows ' in very well greased dripping-pan ; when half full raise the end that is empty almost perpendicular, and shake gently until the balls slide compactly together, then add more and continue doing so until the pan is full; rub over the top with melted butter, let rise until very light, and bake. Maple Biscuit. — To the well-beaten yplks of- twelve eggs, add half pound of powdered or granulated sugar and half a cup of sweet milk; mix one teaspoon baking powder in a (scant) half pound of sifted flour, then s-ift the flour gently into the batter and add flavor- ing, bake in biscuit pans, spreading the batter one and a half to two inches thick in' the pan. If rightly made it will be very light. Do not bake too fast and have the oven about as for sponge cake. When cold, cut into slices three inches long and one inch wide. Ice the sides, ends and top with white, pink and chocolate icing. Dry in oven, and then, if desired, the bottom may be iced. Build in square blocks and place on table. Serve a plate of the white, one of the pink, and one of the brown, or they may be mixed in building. 38 BREAKFAST AND TEA' CAKES. Potato Biscuit. — One cup each butter, sugar, milk, hot mashed potatoes (free from lumps), one cup yeast and two eggs. Mix with enough flour to make a good batter, let rise, and add as much flour as can be stirred in ^'""i' '''°'- with a spoon. Let rise again, roll out to half an inch thick, cut in small round cakes, put two together and when light bake. Rye Biscuit. — Two cups rye meal, one and a half cups flour, one egg, two cups sour milk, one-third cup molasses, salt and two teaspoons soda. Mix lightly, roll out and bake. South Carolina Biscuit. — One quart sweet cream or milk, one and a half cups butter or fresh lard, two tablespoons white sugar, one good teaspoon salt ; add flour sufficient to make a stifi' dough, knead well and mold into neat, small biscuits with the hands, as our grandmothers used to do ; add one good teaspoon cream tartar if preferred; bake well, and you have good sweet biscuits that wiU keep for weeks in a dry place, and are very nice for traveling lunch. They are such as used to be sent to the army, and the "boys" relished them "hugely." Soda Biscuit. — Put one quart of flour, before sifting, into sieve with one teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar ( or three of baking powder), one of salt, and one tablespoon white sugar ; mix all thoroughly with the flour, run through sieve, rub in one level tablespoon of lard or butter (cr half and half), wet with half pint sweet milk, roll on board about an inch thick, cut with biscuit cutter, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. If you have not milk, use a little more butter, and wet with water. Handle as little and make as rapidly as possible. Spoon Biscuit. — One quart sour milk or buttermilk, one tea- spoon soda, a little salt, two tablespoons pielted lard, and flour enough for a stiff batter ; drop in a hot gem-pan and bake in a quick oven. Tea Biscuits. — Cook until mealy and tender three good sized potatoes, mash through colander, and add them to one quart flour in which two tablespoons of baking powder have been sifted, butter size of egg rubbed well through the flour, one well-beaten egg, one cup cream and milk enough to make a good firm dough. Roll out to one-half inch in thickness, cut into small cakes and bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. Unleavened Biscuit. — Five cups Graham flour, one cup warm (not hot) water, white of one egg well-beaten. Bake in gem pana Biscuit and Fancy Cake Cuttera. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 39 Coffee Bread. — One egg, one-half cup sugar, one cup milk, one- half cup yeast and flour to sponge. When light add- one-half cup butter, worked in with the hands (not kneaded) and flour enough to make it soft so that it may be patted down into a greased pan to bake. Let rise again, put little specks of butter over the top, press them in and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Bake about twenty minutes, and cut in strips an inch wide for breakfast or lunch. Easter Bread. — One yeast cake, two cups each flour and water ; mix and set to rise overnight ; in the morning take six cups flour, two cups milk, one and one-half cups currants, one and one-half cups raisins, one-half cup sugar, butter the size of a large hen's egg rubbed in cold, one teaspoon salt ; mix and let rise until light, then mold and put in pans until light, then wet top with melted butter, and bake one hour. Buns. — Break one egg into a cup and fill with sweet milk ; mix with it half cup yeast, half cup butter, one cup sugar, enough flour to make a soft dough ; flavor with nutmeg. Let rise till very light, then mold into biscuit with a few currants. Let rise a second time in pan ; bake and, when nearly done, glaze with a little molasses in milk. Use the same cup, no matter about the size, for each measure. Currant Buns. — Four pounds light bread dough, eight ounces each of currants, sugar and softened butter. EoU the dough out, strew the currants over it and knead them in. Roll out again, then spread on the butter and sugar, cut in bands as wide as the hand and roll them up. Brush them over with melted butter so that they will not stick together in the pans and cut ofi" pieces an inch thick. Put in a buttered pan just touching each other, let them rise nearly an hour and bake. Brush over with sugar and water and dredge with sugar and cinnamon. Hot Cross Buns. — Set a sponge overnight with three cups sweet milk, one cup yeast and flour enough to make a stiff batter. In the morning add one-half cup melted butter, one cup sugar, half a nutmeg, salt-spoon salt and flour enough to roll out. Knead well and set to rise five hours. Roll haljf an inch thick, cut into round cakes, and when they have risen half an hour make a cross on each one with a knife and bake. Apple Cake. — Make like cinnamon cake, placing raw apples cut in eighths over the top, with the butter, cinnamon and sugar. Let rise and bake. Breakfast Cake. — Two tablespoons sugar, two of batter, two eggs, one cup milk, one (scant) quart flour, one teaspoon sodi. two of cream tartar.; bake twenty minutes in a quick oc'cl. 40 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. Cinnamon Cake. — When yeast bread is ready to knead from the sponge, knead and roll out three-fourths of an inch thick, put thin slices of butter on the top, sprinkle with cinnamon, and then with sugar ; let rise well and bake. Tea Cake. — One quart flour, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one-half pound lard, one-half pound chopped raisins or cur- rants ; roll two inches thick and bake in a quick oven ; split open, butter and eat while hot. Egg Crackers. — Six eggs, twelve tablespoons sweet milk, six tablespoons butter, half teaspoon soda; mold with flour half an hour, and roll thin. French Crackers. — One and a half pounds each flour and sugar, three-fourths pound butter, whites of five eggs ; before cooking wash over with egg and dip in sugar. Cracknels. — To one pint of rich milk put two ounces butter and spoon of yeast. Make it warm, and mix enough''fine flour to make a light dough ; roll thin and cut in long pieces, two inches broad. Prick well, and bake in slow oven. Cream Cracknels. — One pound flour, ten ounces butter, two tablespoons sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, nine tablespoons sour cream ; add salt and sugar to the flour, rub in the butter, and knead into a soft dough with the cream ; flour the board, turn out the dough, and break off' small pieces, which roll with the hand about nine inches long, and shape into cracknels ; rub over with beaten eggs, and sprinkle plentifully with sugar and cinnamon mixed ; bake on tins in a moderate oven. English Crumpets. — One quart warm milk, one teas]ioon salt, half cup yeast, flour enough for a not very stiff" batter. When light add half a cup melted butter, let stand twenty minutes, and bake in muffin rings or cups. Cream Crisps. — Put two and a half cups good rich cream, either sweet or sour, in a crock and add gradually four cups unsifted best Graham flour, and half a cup sugar, then take out on board and knead well with one more cup Graham. The dough wants to be very stiff" and kneaded thor- '^^ oughly. Roll out as thin as for thin cookies, cut with cream cnsps. biscuit cutter, prick well and place in pans slightly buttered for first panfull, not greasing afterwards, in a rather hot oven, and bake imme- diately, putting them in bottom of oven first, and then in the upper oven to brown. If wanted "extra nice," eift the flour (jusing about one-eighth more flour.) The quantity of sugar can be increased or diminished, but for health's sake this is sufficient, or even less. Prop- erly made, they will be crisp and delicious. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 41 Hominy Crumpets. — One cup boiled hominy, two cups milk, one tablespoon sugar, two tablespoons melted butter, four table- spoons yeast, four cups flour, or enough to make a good batter, and a little salt well beaten together. Let rise six hours or until very light. Then add one-fourth teaspoon soda dissolved in a little hot water, put into muffin tins, let stand fifteen minutes and then bake quickly. To be eaten hot. For rice crumpets substitute one cup rice for the hominy. Royal Crumpets. — Knead four tablespoons melted butter, three eggs and one cup sugar into three cups raised dough. Bake twenty m.inutes in buttered tins and serve with sugar. Corn Dodgers. — To one quart corn meal add a little salt and a small tablespoon lard ; scald with boiling water and beat hard for a few minutes ; drop a large spoonful in a well-greased pan. The bat- ter should be thick enough to just flatten on the bottom, leaving them quite high in the center. Bake in a hot oven. Gems. — One tablespoon each sugar and butter, one egg, one •cup milk, two teaspoons baking-powder, flour to stiffen ; beat sugar and butter to a cream and add the rest. This recipe makes one dozen gems. CoT^ Gems. — Two cups each corn meal, flour ^^^^^^fl and sweet milk, two eggs, three heaping teaspoons ^^^_/__ baking-powder, one-half cup each butter and sugar, c»™ oem pms." and a little salt. Put into hot gem pans. Good Graham Gems. — Three cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one of salt, one tablespoon brown sugar, one of melted lard, one beaten egg ; to the egg add the milk, then the sugar and salt, then the Graham flour (with the soda mixed in), together with the lard ; make a stiff batter, so that it will drop, not pour, from the spoon. Have gem-pans very hot, grease, fill and bake fifteen min- utes in a hot oven. Sweet Milk Gems. — Beat one egg well, add a pint new milk, a little salt and Graham flour until it will drop off the spoon nicely ; heat and butter the gem-pans before dropping in the dough ; bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Oat Meal Gem.s. — One cup cooked oat meal, or soaked over- night, in one cup water." Add one cup sour milk, one teaspoop soda, one cup flour, a little salt, and bake in gem-pans. TTy one first and if too moist or sticky add more flour, Wheaten Gems. — Mix one teaspoon baking-powder and a MttlO salt into one pint flour ; add to the beaten yolks of two eggs on« tea* cup sweet milk or cream, a piece of butter (melted) half the sire of an egg, the flour with baking-powder and salt mixed, and the well 42 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. beaten whites of the two eggs. Beat well, bake immediately in gem- pans in a hot oven, and take out and send to the table immediately. Alabama Johnny-Cahe. — Cook a pint of rice till tender, add a tablespoon butter; when cold add two beaten eggs and one pint meal, and when mixed spread on an oaken board and bake by tip- ping the board up before the fire-place. When done on one side turn over. The dough should be spread half an inch thick. Johnny-Cake. — Two eggs, one cup sugar, one ana one-half of corn meal, two-thirds cup melted butter, or lard, two cups each sour rtiilk and flour, two teaspoons each saleratus and salt. Johnny- Cake. — Two-thirds teaspoon soda, three tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon cream tartar, one egg, one cup sweet 'milk, six ta'blespoons Indian meal, three tablespoons flour, and a little salt. This makes a thin batter. Corn MuMns. — Two cups corn meal, one-half cup flour, one- fourth cup sugar, two eggs, butter size of a walnut, one teaspoon salt, two tea-spoons baking powder and enough sweet milk to make quite thin. Bake in gem pans. Cream MuMns. — Beat the yolks of three eggs with one teaspoon salt and stir in a half-pint sweet cream adding a half-pint of flour and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in buttered gem pans in quick oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Qraham MuMns. — One egg, heaping tablespoon butter, one and a half cups milk, little salt, one teaspoon baking powder, Graham flour to stiffen. Put in sHghtly heated gem tins and bake. Oraham MuMns. — Two cups sour milk, two tablespoons brown sugar, a little salt, one teaspoon soda, sufficient Graham flour to make moderately stiff. If not convenient to use sour milk, use sweet, adding cream of tartar. Indian MuMns. — Two cups Indian ipeal scalded with as little water as possible, one cup flour, one cup ^B^^ -^^BteE, sweet milk, one tablespoon butter, half ^yjjgP ^g^ ^jQgp cup sugar, one small cup yeast. Let rise m..npan. Leafc«kep.D. sc,>uopp„. overnight and bake in rings for breakfeast. jRice MuMns. — One cup cold boiled rice, two eggs, one quart milk, one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon salt, one pint flour and a teaspoon baking powder. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 43 Bice Flour MuMns. — One and one-half cups rice flour, two cups wheat flour, three teaspoons baking powder, one raint sweet milk, one egg, a little salt and small piece of butter. Eye MuMns. — One and one-half cups rye flour, same of wheat flour, one egg, one scant teaspoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon soda, made into a batter with sweet milk. Sour Milk MuMns. — Stir one egg into one pint sour milk with- out boiling. Melt a teaspoon of butter and a teaspoon saleratus in a tablespoon of hot water. Salt and make a thick batter with wheat flour, beat- well, drop in moderately hot mufiin tins, filling them half full. Wheat MuMns. — Mix one pint milk, two eggs, three table- spoons yeast, and salt-spoon of salt, with flour enough to make a stiff batter ; let rise four or five hours or mix at night for breakfast and bake in mufi&n-rings in a hot oven, for about ten minutes. This recipe may be made with Graham flour, by adding two tablespoons of molasses, and is excellent. Pockei-Books. — Warm one quart new milk, add one cup butter or lard, four tablespoons sugar, and two well-beaten eggs ; stir in flour enough to make a moderately stiff sponge,' add a small cup of yeast, and set in a warm place to rise, which will take three or four hours ; then mix in flour enough to make a soft dough and let rise again. When well risen, dissolve a lump of soda size of a bean in a Spoon of milk, work it into the dough and roll into sheets one-half inch in thickness ; spread with thin layer of butter, cut into squares and fold over, pocket-book shape ; put on tins or in pans to rise for a little while, when they will be fit for the oven. In summer the sponge can be made up in the morning, and rise in time to make for tea. In cool weather it is best to set it overnight. Corn Pones.— ^csl& one pint corn meal with a quart of milk, stir in six eggs beaten separately, one tablespoon flour, two table- spoons baking powder, and a little salt. Bake in buttered cups, in which send to table that they may be turned out and eaten hot with butter and syrup. Corn Pop-overs. — Stir into one pint scalded sweet milk one large cup corn meal, a piece of butter half the size of an egg, and a little salt. Add three well beaten eggs the last thing ; no soda. Pop-overs. — Four well beaten eggs, four cups each of sweet milk and flour, butter size of a walnut, pinch of salt ; beat thoroughly to- gether and bake in hot gem pans. A tablespoon sugar may be add- ed if Uked, but very nice without. Breakfast PuiFs. — If the wheat bread is light enough for the u BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. oven at breakfast time, have ready some hot lard in a deep kettle; with the thi^mb and two fingers pull up some of the dough quite thin, and cut it in two or three inches in length ; as these pieces are cut, drop them in the lard and fry like doughnuts. At table they are eaten like biscuit ; they may also be served in a vegetable dish with a dressing of hot cream, seasoned with pepper and salt. Nun's Puffs (for tea). — Rinse a saucepan, in water to lessen risk of burning and heat one pint of new milk with a > quarter pound of butter to boiling, stir in smoothly a half pound of flour and when cool beat in the yolks of nine eggs, adding the whites beaten to a stiff froth last. Bake in gem pans or cups, half filled, twenty minutes in hot oven. Breakfast Rolls. — Mix the dough in the evening, according to directions in the recipe for "Bread Raised Once ;" add a table-spoon of butter, and set where it will be a little warm until morning ; cut off pieces, and carefully shape them into rolls of the desired size by rolling them between the hands, but do not knead them ; dip the sides of each into drawn butter when they are shaped, and place them in the baking pan (the butter prevents their sticking together when baked, and they will be smooth and perfect when separated). Rub them over the top with drawn butter, and dust a little fine salt over the top ; set in a warm place, and they will quickly rise ready for baking. These are delicious. Cinnamon Rolls. — Take a piece of raised biscuit dough, add a little sugar, roll out to one-fourth an inch thick, spread with butter, Bugar and cinnamon, roll up as you would jelly cake and cut off pieces about half an inch thick, put on buttered tins to rise and when light put a little butter, sugar and cinnamon on the top of each and bake. Coffee Rolls.— Work into a quart of bread dough a rounded tablespoon of butter, and a half tea-cup of white sugar ; add some dried currants (well washed and dried m the oven), sift some flour and sugar over them, work into the other ingredients, make into small rolls, dip into melted butter, place in tins, let rise a short time and bake. Corn Rolls.— One pint of corn meal, two tablespoons sugar one teaspoon salt, one pint boiling milk ; stir all together and let stand till cool. Add three eggs well beaten, and bake in gem-pans, Dinner Rolls.— Make dough as directed in recipe for "Finger Rolls, make into balls as large as a medium-sized hen's egg place on a well-floured board, flour a small rolling-pin (three quarters of an inch in diameter), press down so as nearly to divide BREAKFAST AND TEA CAliES. 45 each ball of dough in the center, place in baking-pans so they will not touch each other, grease the space made by the rolling pin with melted butter, let them rise until light, and bake. These rolls are so small and bake so quickly, that they have the delicious sweet taste of the wheat. Some grease the hands with butter while making the rolls. Bread dough, by adding the other ingredients, may be used for these rolls. Egg Rolls. — To three well beaten eggs add one cup each of sugar, yeast and lard or butter, and a pint of sweet milk. Sponge at night, mix in the morning, adding a little soda ; roll them as pie crust, spread with lard, roll up and bake. Every-Day Rolls. — Take a piece of bread dough on baking day, when molded out the last time, about enough for a small loaf, spread out a little, add one egg, two tablespoons sugar and' three-fourths cup lard ; add a little flour Every-Daj eohs. and a_ small teaspoon soda if the least bit sour ; mix well, let rise, mold into rolls or biscuits, set to rise again, and they will be ready for the oven in twenty or thirty minutes. Finger Rolls. — Three and one-half cups sweet milk, one cup butter and lard mixed in equal proportions, one cup potato yeast, flour enough to make into dough. Let rise overnight; in the morn- ing add one beaten egg, half cup sugar ; knead well and let rise. With the hands make into balls as large as a small hen's egg, then roll between the hands, or on a floured board, into long rolls, about four in- ches long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter, or size of the second finger ; place in even rows in the pans, not too close together, "''^" ''°"'' or in roll pan. Let rise until light, bake delicately, and glaze by brushing lightly with the white of an egg. Or, to bread dough add half cup sugar, an egg, and cup butter, let rise and roll as above. French Rolls. — Peel six medium-sized mealy potatoes, boil in two quarts of water, press and drain both potatoes and water through a colander ; when cool enough so as not to scald, add flour to make a thick batter, beat well, and when lukewarm add one-half cup pota- to yeast. Make this sponge early in the morning, and when light turn into a bread pan, add a teaspoon salt, half cup lard, and flour enough for a soft dough; mix up and set in a warm, even temperature ; when risen, prenciEoupau, knead down and place again to rise, repeating this process five or six times ; cut in small pieces and mold on the bread-board in rolls about one inch thick by five long ; roll in melted butter or sweet lard and place in well-greased baking pans (nine inches long by five wide 46 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. and two and a half in depth, makes a convenient sized pan, which holds fifteen ofthese rolls; or, if twice the width, put in two rows); press the rolls closely together so that they will only be about ha,lf an inch in width. Let rise a short time and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven ; if the top browns too rapidly, cover with paper. These rolls, if properly made, are very white, light and tender. _ Or, make rolls larger, and just before putting them in the oven, cut deeply across each one with a sharp knife. This will make the cleft roll, so famous among French cooks. French Bolls.— ¥or about sixty split rolls, three large cups water or milk ; one large cup yeast ; heaping tablespoon salt ; two ounces each sugar and lard or butter ; four pounds flour. Set sponge at eight in the morning with half the flour, adding sugar and butter, then beat it again about one, add the salt and make up stiff dough with the rest of the flour. Knead the dough on the table, alternately drawing it up in round shape and pressing the pulled-over edges into the middle and then pressing it out to a flat sheet, folding over and pressing out again. Brush the clean pan over with the least touch of melted lard or butter^ — which prevents sticking and waste of dough — place the dough in and brush that over, too. Where economy reigns the strictest, a little warm water in a cup and teaspoon lard melted in it will do for this brushing over and insures the truest saving and smoothest bread. Let the dough rise till four, then spread dough on table by pressing out with the knuckles till it is a thin uneven sheet. Double it over on itself and press the two edges together all around first. This imprisons air in the knuckle holes in large masses. Then pound and press the dough with the fists till it has become a thin sheet again, with the inclosed ^ air distributed in bubbles all through it. Fold over and re- peat this process several times, then roll it up ; it win be like Frencn eoii». an air cushion. Let it stand a few minutes before making into plain rolls, cleft rolls, or loaves. Persons in practice find it quickest to pull off pieces of dough of right size and mold them up instantly. Others cut off strips of dough, roll them in lengths and cut these up in roll sizes ; mold them up round with no flour on the board and only a dust on the hands, and place them in regular rows on the table-^ the smoothest side down ; take a little rolling pin — it looks like a piece of new broom handle — and roll a depression across the middle of each ; brush these over with the least possible melted lard or but- ter, using a tin-bound varnish brush for the purpose ; double the rolls, the two buttered sides together 'as seen in the cut above, and place them in the pans diagonally, with plenty of room so they will not touch ; brush over the tops of the rolls in the pans with the least BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 47 possible melted lard again, and set them to rise about an hour — less or more according to temperature. Bake in a hot oven, about ten min- utes ; brush over with clear water when done. , Oraham Rolls. — Mix thoroughly with a spoon one quart each of Graham and white flour, one and a half pints lukewarm water, one gill each of molasses and yeast, two ounces drippings or butter, two teaspoons salt. Let rise, drop in buttered roll pans and bake. For breakfast mix at night. Italian Rolls. — A pound of bread dough, quarter-pound soft- ened butter ; work the butter well into the dough, and roll out about half an inch thick ; cut into strips nearly an inch wide and seven or eight inches long; sift over them fine corn meal, place them apart on a buttered pan, and when light bake in a quick oven. Oatmeal Rolls. — To one cup oatmeal mush add half cup sweet milk, thicken with white flour till stifi" enough to roll, roll out one inch thick, cut out with a cutter four inches .long by one and a half inches wide. Sprinkle a pan with corn meal, place in rolls and bake at once in a hot oven from half to three quarters of an hour. ParJcer House Rolls. — Rub one-half tablespoon of butter, and one-half tablespoon of lard into two quarts of sifted flour ; into a well in the middle pour one pint of cold boiled milk, and add one- half cup of yeast, one-half cup sugar, and a little salt. If wanted for tea, rub the flour and butter, and boil the milk, and cool it the night before ; add sugar, yeast and salt, and turn all into the flour, but do not stir. Let stand overnight ; in the morning stir up, knead and let rise till near tea time ; mold and let rise again, and bake quickly. To mold, cut with cake-cutter ; put a little melted buttet on one-half and lap nearly over on the other half. Place them in the pan about three-quarters of an inch apart. Ring Rolls. — Make dough as for Finger Rolls, roll to the same thickness in strips eight or nine inches in length and pinch together in a ring with about three inches space in the center. Be careful not to have the rolls of dough too large, as they will rise. Snowflake Rolls. — Make like pie crust, roll pretty nearly as thin, cut into narrow strips, roll and twist them in the hands, pinch the ends together and bake in hot oven ten minutes. Eat with honey. Vienna Rolls. — Have ready in a bowl a tablespoon of butter or lard, made soft by warming, a little, and stirring with a spoon. Add to one quart of unsifted flour two heaping teaspoons baking powder ; mix and sift thoroughly together, and place in a bowl with 48 BEEAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. butter. Take more or less sweet milk as ma_y be necessary to form a dough of usual stiffness, according to the flour (about three-fourths of a pint), put into the milk half a teaspoon ot salt, and then stir it into the flour, etc., with a spoon, forming the dough, which turn out on a board and knead sufficiently to make smooth. Roll out half an inch thick, and cut with a large round cutter ; fold each one over to form a half round, wetting a little between the folds to make them stick together ; place on buttered pans, so as not to touch, wash over on top with milk to give them a gloss, and bake immediately in a hot oven about twenty minutes. It will do them no harm to stand half an hour before baking, if it is desired. Vienna Rolls. — Two pounds flour ; two cups milk ; one-half cake compressed yeast, or one-half cup potato yeast ; two teaspoons each sugar and salt. Make the milk lukewarm and dissolve the yeast in it. Set sponge at nine in the morning, at noon add the salt and sugar and make up stiff dough. Let rise till about four. Then work the dough well on the table by pressing out and fold- ing over. Roll out the dough in one large sheet as thin as }'0u can, which will be about the thinness of a dinner plate edge ; then, measuring with hand, cut the dough into strips or bands as wide across as hand is long. Cut these again into triangular pieces for rolls, not equal sided but long and narrow triangles. Roll these triangular pieces up, beginning at the broad bottom end, and the point will come up in the middle, and there will be a spiral mark around from end to end. Give each roll a few turns under the hands to smooth it and place it on the baking-pan in the form of a crescent — ^just the shape and size of the new moon. Brush over with water or melted lard. Let rise in the pans about half an hour and bake about ten minutes. Wedding Sandwich Rolls. — Late in the evening make a rather stiff potato sponge (see directions under "Bread-Making"), and in the morning mix in as much flour as will make a soft dough, knead well, and place to rise ; when sufficiently light, knead down again, repeating the operation two or three times, remembering not to let the dough become sour by rising too light ; mold into common-sized loaves, place in your dripping-pan to rise, and bake very carefully, so as to secure the very slightest brown crust possible. On taking out of the oven, roll in a cloth tightly wrung out of water, with a large bread-blanket folded and wrapped around all. Let cool three or four hours, cut lengthwise of the loaf (not using the outside piece), first spreading lightly with good sweet butter, then cutting in slices YieoDa Bolls. BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 49 not more than a quarter of an inch, or just as thin as possible, using for this purpose a very thin, sharp knife ; lay on cold boiled ham cut in very thin shavings (no matter if in small pieces), roll up very slowly and carefully, and place where it will not unroll. Treat each sandwich in the same manner, always spreading the bread with but- ter before cutting. If by chance the bread is baked with too hard a crust, cut off a thin shaving of the brownest part very smoothly be- fore making into sandwiches. These sandwiches are truly delicious if properly made, but they require great care, experience, and good judgment. Served on an oblong platter, piled in pyramid style, row upon row, they will resemble nicely rolled dinner napkins. They must be made and served the same day. The best b read for use for these rolls is a sort of steamed bread made SiiS as follows : When bread has raised in a single a^^^^^^ loaf pan, invert it into an ordinary dripping-pan, "" leaving the other pan still over the loaf. Bake wedding rohs. in this way. This makes a tougher bread than ordinary, which can be rolled at any time. Winter Rolls. — Put three quarts flour into a large crock or jar, ecald one quart buttermilk, add one cup lard, and pour all over the flour, beating it up well ; then add one quart cold water, stir and add oile-half cup potato yeast, or one cup brewer's ; beat in well and set in a warm place to rise overnight. In the morning add salt and flour enough to make a moderately stiff dough ; set in a warm place to rise, and when risen, knead down and set to rise again. This' time knead down and place in a large stone crock or bowl, coyered tightly with a tin pan to prevent the surface from drying, and set away in a cool place. When needed, turn out on a bread-board, cut off a piece as large as you wish to use, roll out to the thickness of ordinary soda biscuit, cut, and put in the oven to bake immediately. Set away the rest of the dough as before, and it will keep a week in winter, and is very convenient for hot breakfast- rolls. Roll Olase. — Take yolks of two eggs and twice their bulk in water ; put on with brush when rolls or bread are half baked, return to oven and finish baking. Rusk. — One pint milk, three eggs, one tea-cup each of butter and sugar, and one coffee-cup potato yeast ; thicken with flour, and sponge overnight ; in the morning stir down, let rise, and stir down again ; when it rises make into a loaf, and let rise again ; then roll out like soda biscuit, cut and put in pans, and, when light, bake care- fully. Or when baking take four cups dough, one-half cup butter, one cup sugar, three eggs ; mix thoroughly, adding enough flour to mold easily ; let rise, make into rather high and narrow biscuit, let rise again, rub the tops with a little sugar and water, then sprinkle over them dry sugar. Bake twenty minutes. 50 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. Baking Powder Rusk. — Mix the beaten yolks of three eggs with a half cup butter and one cup sugar. Make a dough of the con- sistency of bread dough of a quart of sifted flour wet with water, in which two heaping teaspoons of baking powder and one of salt has been well mixed. Then add the eggs, butter and sugar, form into little cakes, rub the tops with sugar and water, sprinkle dry sugar over them and bake immediately. Fancy Rush. — Break an egg into a cup, beat light and fill up with milk, add half cup sponge, three-fourths cup sugar, one-fourth cup butter, enough flour for soft dough and a little cinnamon. Knead well, let rise, knead again, form into small rolls with buttered fin- gers and place in deep pan. Let them get very light before baking. Lebanon Rusk. — One cup mashed potatoes, one of sugar, one of home-made yeast, three eggs ; mix together ; when "raised light, add half cup butter or lard, and flour to make a soft dough, and, when quite light, mold into small cakes, and let them rise again before baking. If wanted for tea, set about nine a. m. Marblehead Rusk. — Warm six ounces butter, two of sugar and half cup milk, or cream, with one pound dough, mix well, beat in yolks of ten eggs, two at a time, and add gradually one and one- fourth pounds flour. Knead, set to rise, in three houfs knead again, let rise, knead yet again, and finish as French RoIIp, page 46. The dough may be flavored with vanilla, vanilla and rose mixed, orange, nutmeg, or lemon rind and little juice. Add raisins, currants and citron if liked. Southern Egg Bread. — Two cups white Indian meal, one cup cold boiled rice, three well beaten eggs, one tablespoon melted but- ter, two and a half cups milk, or enough for a soft batter, one tea= spoon salt and a pinch soda. Stir the beaten eggs into the milk, then the meal, salt and butter, and lastly of all the rice. Beat up well from the bottom two or three minutes, and bake quickly in a round shallow pan. Scones. — Rub one-fourth pound butter and enough sweet milk to make a smooth. paste into one quart sifted flour and two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, cut into triangular cakes each side about four inches long, lay on buttered tin, and bake in hot oven. When half done brush over with sweet milk. Sally Lunn. — Sift into a pan a pound and a half flour, put in two ounces butter warmed in a pint new milk, one saltspoon salt, three eggs well beaten, and two tablespoons good yeast. Mix well together, and put the whole into a tin pan well greased, and set to . rise all night. Bake a little brown in a quick oven. Warm the milk and butter over water until the butter is njelted ; beat the eggs in a BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 51 two-quart tin pail, and if the milk is not hot pour it over them. Stir in half the flour, then add the yeast, stirring thoroughly with the rest of the flour. Let rise overnight. Some add two tablespoons sugar and use a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar instead of the yeast. TriHes. — Three-quarters cup cream (milk may be used with a teaspoon butter), three eggs beaten separately, scant teaspoon baking powder, pinch each salt and cinnamon ; floux to roll out ; roll as thin as can be, cut into two-inch squarps, drop in hot lard prepared as described in doughnut preface ; place on brown paper to drain and sprinkle with" pulverized sugar ; or add more milk, making batter a little thicker than for pancakes, press through a meringue bag as de- scribed in confectionery preface into the hot lard in rings or any shapes wished. When done drain and sprinkle as above. Corn Meal WaMes. — To the beaten yolks of three eggs, add one ■quart of sour milk or butter-milk, corn meal to make a batter a lit- tle thicker than for pancakes, one teaspoon salt, one -of soda dissolved in a little warm water, then the well beaten whites. For dressing put on the stove a half ■cup cream, a tablespoon butter, and two of sugar ; ' when hot, put two tablespoons on each waffle when wafflTS?" placed in the dish to Serve. Nice also for buckwheat cakes. Quick WaMes. — Two pints sweet milk, one cup butter (melted), sifted flour to make a soft batter ; add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, then the beaten whites, and lastly (Just before baking) four teaspoons baking, powder, beating very hard and fast for a few min- utes. These are very good with four or five eggs, but much better with more. Raised WaMes. — One quart flour, one pint sweet, lukewarm milk, two eggs, a tablespoon melted butter, teaspoon salt, half tea- ■cup good yeast. Rice WaMes. — Boil half a pint rice and let it get cold, mix with it one-fourth pound butter and a little salt. Sift in it one and a half pints flour, beat five eggs separately, stir the yolks together with one quart milk, add whites beaten to a stifi" froth, beat hard, and bake at once in waffle irons WaMes. — Mix thoroughly three-fourths quarts sifted flour, pint sweet milk, yolk of an egg and pinch salt, then add heaping tea- spoon baking powder sifted with a little flour, beaten white of egg and bake at once; makes eight waffles. Two eggs may be used, also tablespoon melted butter, and sour milk and level teaspoon soda, instead of sweet milk and baking powder. WaMes, ( Without Yeast or Soda). — Melt two teaspoons butter in pint milk, and when cooled stir in half teaspoon salt and 52 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. scant pint and a half flour. Beat whites and yolks of three eggs separately, stirring in the yolks and then the whites very lightly. Wafers. — One pint sifted flour, saltspoon salt, one ounce lard- er butter, white of one egg, and sweet milk enough to make dough to roll out. Beat with a rolling pin for twenty minutes or longer. Every stroke adds sweetness to the wafers. Form dough into balls size of pigeon's egg and roll to size of a saucer, or as thin as can he. Sprinkle flour over tins and bake with care. Sweet Wafers. — One pint flour, one cup sugar, three eggs, one tablespoon butter, flavor with lemon, mix into batter same as for cake, and bake in wafer irons. Walnuts. — Sift one quart of flour, take one-fourth of it, and add rather more than half a cake compressed yeast, dissolved in half a gill warm water, make into sponge with a very little more water, put it in a warm place ; when it is double its size make a hole in the center of the rest of the flour, and put in it a teaspoon each salt and • sugar, two tablespoons tepid water, three-quarters pound butter and four eggs ; beat well, then add another egg, beat again, and add another, and so on until seven have been used ; the paste must be soft, but not spread ; if too firm, add another egg. Xow mix this paste thoroughly with the sponge, beating until the paste leaves the sides of the bowl, then put it in a crock and cover ; let stand four hours in a warm place, turn it out on a board, spread it and doiMe it four times, return it to the crock, and let it rise again two hours ; repeat the former process of doubling and spreading, and put it in a very cold place for two hours, or until wanted for use. Mold in any form liked, but a preferred way is to make two pieces, one as large again as the other ; form the large one into a ball, make a deep de- pression in the center, on which place the smaller ball, pressing it gently in ; cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp knife, and bake a beautiful golden brown. These "Walnuts are the same as the renowned French Brioche. Weimarlies. — Take one quart bread dough, or make a sponge with a pint flour and a yeast-cake soaked in half a pint warm water or milk, then add another pint flour ; when light add four tablespoons butter, a little sugar, and two eggs ; work well. If bread dough is used, dredge in a little more flour on account of eggs, but not very much ; let rise, and when lighter than for bread, proceed as in making rolls by pushing it down with fist till not larger than when put in pan ; let rise and again push down but not so much as before ; let rise, and push down again ; then turn dough on molding board lightly floured, roll as pie-crust into pieces six inches square, and quarter of an inch thick, rnake two sharp, quick cuts across from corner to corner, and there will be from each square, four three-cornered pieces of paste • spread each thinly with soft butter, flour lightlv, and roll up as in Vienna Kolls, (page 48) very lightly from the wide side, taking care YEAST. 53 that it is not squeezed together in any way ; lay them on a tin with the side on which the point conies uppermost, and bend round in the form of a horseshoe ; these will take some time to rise ; when they have swollen much and look light, -brush over with white of egg (not beaten) or milk and butter, and bake in a good oven. Kringles are made as above only add another egg and two table- spoons sugar (powdered), and instead of rolling as pie-crust, break off pieces, roll between the hands until thick as fingers, and form. into figure eights, rings, fingers, or make twists I as in cut ; or take three strips, flour and roll them as thick as the finger, tapering at each Twist Rolls. end ; lay them on the board, fasten the three together at one end, and then lay one over the other in a plait, fasten the other end, and set to rise ; bake, and when done, brush over with sugar dissolved in milk, and sprinkle with sugar. Yeast. The best is potato yeast, with or without hops, because bread made with it is moister; without hops there is no danger of injuring the flavor of the bread by an excess of yeast, but there is a preserv- ing quality in hops that prevents the yeast from becoming sour as soon as simple potato yeast, which is only "good for one day." The proportion of hop yeast given in any of our recipes will not cause a bitter taste. Dry yeast should be made in May or June for sum- mer use, and in October for winter use. In hot and damp weather dry yeast sometimes loses its vitality ; however, many use it on ac- count of its convenience, since there is no danger of its souring in summer or freezing m winter. Soft hop or potato yeast will keep in a cool place one or two weeks in warm weather, and in cold weather five or six weeks, care being taken that it does not freeze, but it makes more wholesome bread to make fresh every week or two the year round. Never add soda to yeast ; if it becomes sour it will do to start fresh yeast, but will never make good bread. Boil the hops {without tying in a cloth, as that keeps the pollen, an important rising property, out of the yeast) in a new cofiee-pot and make the yeast in a bright tin pan kept for these purposes alone. When boiled thick like starch put in a large jar, cover, set in a pan in a warm (not hot) place, and stir down as it ferments, adding yeast as given in recipe, when milk warm. When it is risen sufl&ciently, which will be in about a day, a thick white scum rises to the top ; then place in a stone or glass jar with a close fitting cover, or in a jug, on the eel- 54 YEAST. lar bottom, in the refrigerator, or some other cool place. The jar or jug should be filled to the brim, and the. cork should be loose for first twelve hours, then tightened perfectly. Always shake the jug before taking out yeast for use. Extreme heat or freezing kills the plant, which grows while fermentation goes on. The jar or jug, when emptied, should be washed first in cold water, then in soap and water, and afterward in hot water, which may be allowed to stand a half hour, when pour out. Let jar cool and it is ready for use. The cork or cover needs the same careful attention. Many times the yeast is spoiled by want of care and neatness in washing the yeast jar. Use dried or pressed, never fresh hops. Dried hops keep good a year, but pressed retain their strength longer, and eith- er should be kept in a paper sack in a cool, dry place. Select hops showing the pollen dust, and always boil them without sack, as sug- gested above. One pint potato yeast, one tea-cup hop yeast, a piece compressed yeast size of a walnut, and one yeast cake, or two-thirds tea-cup yeast crumbs are equal in strength. "Well made yeast cakes will keep good if put in a tin box in a dry place from two to three months. When yeast cakes that have been put to soak are quite soft mash them entirely and stir them thorough!}' with the sponge. Their odor and taste is sometimes thought to be given to the bread, rendering their use objectionable ; but if properly used one cannot perceive any difiference between bread made with them and with soft yeast. A difference of opinion exists m regard to the use of cooked and raw potatoes for yeast. Individually we prefer the grated pota- toes, but others use them boiled with good success. Boiled potatoes should be mashed fine and put through a colander before using for yeast, and raw ones must be peeled and grated into a crock contain- ing sufiicient water to cover them, which prevents their darkening and so discoloring the yeast and bread. Some grate the potatoes with a quantity of water, letting stand until they settle to the bot- tom and then pouring off the water. Dry Zeasi!.— Boil two large potatoes and a handful hops (the latter in a bag) in three pints water ; when done, take out potatoes, mash well, add one pint flour, and pour the boiling hop water over all ; beat well together, adding one tablespoon salt, one of ginger, and one-half cup sugar ; when lukewarm add one cup good yeast and let stand two days (or only one day if very warm weather), stirring YEAST. 55 down frequently ; add good white corn meal until thick enough to make into cakes about half an inch in thickness ; place to dry in the shade (never expose to the sun or to stove heat) where the air will pass freely, so as to dry them as soon as possible, as the fermentation goes on as long as there is any moisture ; turn the cakes frequently, breaking them up somewhat, or even crumbling, so they will dry out evenly and quickly ; when thoroughly dried put in a paper sack and keep in a dry place. A small cake will make a sponge sufficient to bake five or six ordinary loaves. Yeast. — Pare and boil four ordinary sized potatoes in two quarts of water, boiling at the same time in a separate vessel a good handful hopfe. When potatoes are done, mash fine, pass through a colander, and add, after straining, the water in which the hops were boiled ; put into this one cup white sugar and one-half cup salt, and add sufficient water to make one gallon ; when cold add one cup good yeast, let stand in a warm place for a few hours, until it will " sing " on being stirred, when it is ready for use. Keep covered in a cellar or cool place. Farmers' Yeast. — A yeast which is especially good for the use of farmers, and others who' use a great deal of bread and bake fre- quently, is made as follows : Take a handful unpressed or two ounces pressed hops (those showing the pollen dust are best), put them in one quart water with four ordinary potatoes, and boil till the potatoes are well cooked ; m,ash all together, and strain through a linen strainer, add flour enough to make a thick batter, a teaspoon salt, a tablespoon pulverized ginger and half a cup sugar ; set it back on the fire and let it come to a boil, stirring constantly, and set by to cool ; when only milk-warm add a cup old yeast, or two cakes grocers' dry hop yeast, or half a cup bakers'. This will be light in two or three hours. The yeast may be made perpetual, by saving a cup when started, but it must be kept from freezing in winter and in a cool place, in summer. This is a good mode, and acceptable to all who prefer yeast bread. Hop Yeast. — Place a handful hops in two quarts cold water, boil slowly for a half hour, strain boiling hot on one pint flour and one tablespoon salt (gradually at first in order to mix smoothly) ; when lukew^arm add a half pint yeast, and set in a warm place to rise. When light, cover and keep in a cool place. Lightning Yeast. — To a half-cup warm water add a pinch each salt and sugar and stir in corn meal until quite thick. Put in a warm place overnight, or stirred in the .morning and kept warm it will be light in a few hours. Put about two tablespoons of this lightning into your rising and it will be up in an hour. The yeast mil not look very light but will be very porous. Potato Yeast. — Boil one cup hops in two quarts water fifteen 56 YEAST, minutes. While hops are boiling grate five good-sized Irish potatoes as directed in yeast preface, add one cup white sugar and one table- spoon each salt and ginger. Pour this mixture into the bright tin yeast pan and strain the hop water upon it. Cook from five to ten minutes, stirring occasionally, when it will boil up thick like starch ; some do not boil the mixture, simply turn the boiling hop water over it ; turn into a jar, and when just tepid in summer, or quite warm in winter, add one-half pint good yeast (always save some to start with) ; set jar in a large tin pan, and as often as it rises stir down until fermentation ceases, when it will be quite thin. Cover closely, set away in a cool place, and it will keep two weeks. When yeast smells sour but does not taste sour it is still good ; if it has no smell it is dead. One cup will make six good-sized loaves. ^ Potato-Ball Yeast. — Boil and mash four or five medium-sized potatoes, or enough to make about a pint, add scant tablespoon each salt, white sugar and when cool a half package compressed yeast, or if you cannot get the compressed, take half cake dry yeast, soak in as little water as possible and add ; mold into a ball, lay away where it will not freeze ; after a day prepare potatoes in same way except that instead of adding yeast when cool, add first ball, work together thoroughly and mold into two balls of same size. These are ready for use any time after twelve hours, and one will be suflicient to raise four ordinary loaves. Set sponge overnight, dissolving the potato ball in about a quart lukewarm water, which will be sufficient wet- ting. A supply of this yeast can be kept on hand by preparing po- tatoes and making a new ball as above directed the day before baking. Potato Yeast Without Hops. — Four good-sized potatoes peeled, boiled and mashed, four tablespoons white sugar, one of ginger, one of salt, two cups flour ; pour over this a pint boiling water, and beat till all the lumps disappear. After it has cooled, add to it one cup good yeast, and set away to rise , when risen put in glass or stone jar, cover and set away in a cool place. Yeast without Yeast. — This requires no yeast to raise it, and has been called the " best yeast in the world." Monday morning, boil one pint hops in two gallons water for half an hour, strain into a crock and let the liquid become lukewarm, add two even teaspoons salt and hal^ a pint best brown sugar ; mix half a pint flour smooth with some of the liquor and stir all well together. On A^'ednesday, add three pounds potatoes boiled and mashed, stir well and let staiid till Thursday, then strain and put in stone jugs, but for the first dav or two leave the corks quite loose. Stir the yeast occasionally wliile making, and keep near the fire. It should be made two weeks before using, and will keep any length of time, improving with age. Keep it in a cool place and shake the jug before pouring from it, but with the cork out, holding the palm of the hand over the mouth to pre- vent the escape of the yeast. I TOAST. 57 Yahoo Yeast. — Mix one quart flour, one teacup. sugar, two tea- spoons alum with warm water to a creamy consistency, and add one teacup yeast. When well risen it can be made into cakes with meal and dried ; or for Saltless Yeast, wash, pare and boil six potatoes ; when done, pour potatoes and water upon half quart flour in pan, mash to a smooth paste, add more boiling water if needed, one tablespoon sugar and thin with ice water till like thick cream. When tepid, add half pint yeast and finish as directed in general directions. Some claim that grated raw potato yeast can in winter be frozen solid and kept so, thawing as wanted and then refreezing. This might be well worth trying. Toast. Although toast is commonly used, few know how to prepare it nicely. Take bread not too fresh, cut thin and evenly, trim off the crust-edges for the crumb-jar ; first warm each side of the bread, then present the first side again to the fire until it takes on a rich, even brown color ; treat the other side in the' same way. The coals should be bright and hot. Toast properly made is very digestible, because all the moisture is extracted, and the bre^d has become pure farina of wheat; but when it is exposed to a hot fire and the outside -charred, the inside remains as moist as ever, and butter applied to it while warm does not penetrate, but floats on the surface in the form of rancid oil. Vegetable and meat toasts are improved by dipping the slices in a shallow dish of hot water, slightly salted, in which a piece of butter has been melted. This should be done always when toast is' hastily prepared and served. Dry toast made after the recipe given is an excellent foundation for the various dishes under tfiis heading, as it may be prepared in a quantity and kept a long time, and is thus always at hand. , Anchovy Toast. — Slice bread the day after baking, and toast iv. evenly and quickly ; remove the crust, spread with a little butter, and then with anchovy butter made as follows : Scrape the skin from a dozen fine anchovies, take the flesli from the bones, pound it Smooth in a mortar: rub +hfr)n8;h a hair-sieve, put the anchovies 58 TOAST. into the mortar with three-fourths pound fresh butter, a small quan- tity cayenne, and a saltspoon each of grated nutmeg and mace ; heat together until thoroughly blended. Asparagus Toast. — Wash the asparagus clean, cut off the white Eart except a mere end, put into slightly salted boiling water, boU ve minutes, pour off water, add more boiling hot ; boil ten to fifteen minutes, then put in a lump of butter, salt and pepper (some stir in a thickening made of one teaspoon flour mixed up with cold water) ; cut and toast thin slices of bread, spread with butter and put in a dish, and over them turn asparagus and gravy. The water must be boiled down until just enough for the gravy, which is made as above. Breakfast Toast. — Chop cold steak or tongue very fine, cook in a little water, put in cream or milk, thicken, season vs^th butter, salt and pepper, and pour it over slices of toast. Cold boiled beef or fried liver may be used instead of steak. Prepare boiled ham in the same way, adding the yolk of an egg. Buttered Toast. — Toast slices of bread as directed in preface, butter well and serve immediately ; or, beat one cup butter and three tablespoons fiour to a cream, pour over this one and a half pints ioiling water ; place over a- kettle of boiling water for ten minutes, dip into it the toast, and serve hot ; or, dip each slice of toast in boiling hot water (slightly salted), spread 'i^'ith butter, cover and keep hot. Cheese and Egg Toast. — Melt a cup cheese crumbs in a half pint rich milk seasoned with salt, pepper and butter to taste, and stir in two well beaten eggs. Cook a few minutes, stirring constantly. Spread over toasted bread and serve on hot platter. Cream Toast. — Scald but do not boil one quart milk, salted, and thicken with two tablespoons fiour or one of corn starch ; add two tablespoons butter and the whipped whites of three eggs or a gill of cream. Boil up once and pour over the toast, lifting each lower slice 80 that the mixture may penetrate them. The slices of toast should first be dipped into a shallow dish of hot water nito which a tablespoon of butter has been melted. Excellent without the egg or cream. Chicken Toast. — Prepare the meat as for beefsteak toast, using with or instead of cream or milk the gravy from the chicken when you have it. Delicious. CodAsh Toast. — Make a codfish cream as given in "Fish Reci- pes" and pour over slices of nicely buttered toast. Chipped dried beef may be served in same wav. TOAST. 59 Dry Toast.— Mi&x bread dough has been prepared for biscuits by adding egg, butter and sugar, make into long, narrow loaves, place in pan, let rise and bake. Day after baking slice thin, put in large baking pan and brown in oven, turning and browning other side. A quantity can be browned, or brown as needed each day. Serve with soup, or very nice broken in milk, tea or coffee. Egg Toast. — Break eggs in sufficient boiling hot (but not really boiling) water to cover them, slightly salted. Simmer gently until the eggs are delicately cooked, or until the yolks are covered with a white film. Take them up with a skimmer, and lay each on a slice of buttered toast, previously dipped in salted hot water. Butter and pepper may be added at table, and eat with Worcestershire sauce. This is an unexcelled breakfast dish. Excellent Toast. — Cut slices of a uniform thickness of half an inch ; move around over a brisk fire, to have all parts toasted alike ; keep only so near the coals that the pieces will be heated through when both sides are well browned. If the slightest point is blacken- ed or charred, scrape it off or it will spoil the flavor of the whole. If covered with an earthen bowl, it will keep both warm and moist. A clean towel or napkin will answer if it is to go at once to the table. Stale bread may be used for milk-toast ; sour bread may be improv- ed by toasting it through, but sweet, light bread, only a day old or less, makes the best toast. French Toast. — Add to one-half pint sweet milk two table- spoons sugar, a little salt and a well-beaten egg ; dip in this slices of bread (if dry, let it soak a minute), fry on a buttered griddle until it is a light brown on each side ; sprinkle with sugar and serve. This is a good way to use dry bread. Lemon Toast. — Into three cups sweet milk stir the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Dip slices of bread into the mixture and fry in butter to a delicate brown ; froth the whites of the eggs, add a large cup white sugar, two cups boiling water, and the juice and a little of the grated rind of two lemons. Pour this juice over the toast and you have a delicious supper dish. Mennonite Toast. — Beat up three eggs well, add a pint sweet milk and a pinch salt ; cut slices an inch thick from a loaf baker's bread, remove crust, dip slices into the eggs and milk, fry like dough- nuts in very hot lard or drippings, till a delicate brown, butter and . sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. Oyster Toast^ — Prepare an oyster stew with plenty of milk, lightly seasoned with butter or cream if you have it, pepper, salt, etc., and pour over slices of toast previously dipped in hot water. Place oysters carefully on the slices and serve on hot platter. 60 TOAST. Sausage Toast.— Is made by scalding the sausages in boiling water, frying to light brown, chop fine, and spread on bits of toast. Tomato Toast. — Run a quart of stewed ripe tomatoes through a colander, place in a porcelain stew-pan, season with butter, pepper and salt and sugar to taste ; cut slices of bread thin, brown on both sides, butter and lay on a platter, and just as the bell rings for tea add a pint of good sweet cream to the stewed tomatoes, and pour them over toast. Marrow-Bone Toast. — Cover two beef shinbones, five to seven inches long, with dough and wrap in muslin ; cover with hot water and boil an hour and a half. Remove cloth and dough, shake or draw out the marrow with a fork upon slices of hot toast ; season with salt, a bit of cayenne and a little chopped celery. Oyster Toast. — Take one and a half dozen nice oysters, chop fine, put in saucepan with some of their liquor, add pepper and a small pinch of nutmeg ; cook a minute or two, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs and a gill of cream ; let boil up once, add salt and pour over slices of buttered bread ; serve hot. Salmon Toast. — Mince some canned salmon fine, put in sauce- pan with a little milk or cream, let heat, season and serve on toast. Poaching egg and placing on center of each slice of toast, putting the salmon around the egg, is a more elaborate manner of serving, and is very delicious Tonpue Toast. — Put finely chopped cold tongue in saucepan with a little water ; when heated add a small lump butter, salt and pepper, then stir in two beaten eggs and pour mixture on each slice of toast; or add with the seasoning milk to make quite a gravy; stir in a little thickening of flour and water, let boil a few moments, and pour over the toast without adding eggs. The latter way is good for any bits of meat, fowl or game, and requires less than without the milk. Water Toast. — Cut either white or Graham bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick, trim off crusts and brown in a moderate oven, as in Dry Toast recipe. This is the way to prepare all toasts, as all the moisture is thus evaporated, while holdmg before the fire only warms the moisture, making inside of bread doughy and indi- gestible. For dry toast, butter slightly and serve in a folded napkin if wished hot, as racks allow heat to escape; dip fjges into hot water quickly, and butter at once. In making milk toast, wet the utensil to be used in cold water, as tins will prevent burning. CAKE MAKING. 61 CAKE MAKING-. "Let all things be done decently and in order," and the first to put in order when you are going to bake is yourself. Secure the hair in a net or other covering, to prevent any from falling, and brush the shoulders and back to be sure none are lodged there that might blow off; make the hands and finger nails clean, roll the sleeyes up above the elbows, and put on a large, clean apron. Clean the kitchen table of utensils and every thing not needed, and pro- vide every thing that will be needed until the cake is baked, not forgetting even the broom-splints previously picked off the new broom and laid away carefully in a little box. (A knitting or trussing-needle may be kept for testing cake instead of splints). If it is warm weather, place the eggs in cold water, and let stand a few minutes, as Fi^d cke pin. they will then make finer froth ; and be sure they are fresh, as they will not make a stiff froth after any amount of beating if old. To beat eggs quickly, add a pinch of salt, which cools and freshens them. Break the eggs one at a time into a saucer so that if there be a bad one it will not spoil the others, and carefully remove all specks before beating. The cake-tins should be prepared before the cake, when baking powder is used, as it effer- vesces but once, and there should be no delay in baking, as the mix- ture should be made firm by the heat while the effervescing process is going on. Grease the pans with fresh lard, or American Cooking Oil, either of which is much better than butter; line the bottom with paper, using six or eight thicknesses if the cake is large, and greas- 62 CAKE MAKING. ing the top one well. (In some ovens, however, fewer thicknesses of paper would be needed on the bottom, and in some the sides also should be lined with one or two thicknesses.) Never bake cakes or confectionery that contain no shortening on buttered paper or tin. Use fine, clean manilla paper, obtained for the purpose, instead. Sift flour and sugar (if not pulverized), and measure .or weigh. Firkin or very salt butter should be cut in bits and washed to fresh- en a little ; if very hard, warm carefully, but in no case allow any of it to melt. Good butter must be used, as the heat develops any latent bad qualities. Use pulverized sugar for all delicate cakes ; for rich cakes coffee-crushed, powdered and sifted ; for dark cakes, the best brown sugars are best ; for jelly-cakes, light fruit cakes, etc., fine granulated and coffee "A" are best and most economical. In ordering granulated sugar always specify the fine which is cheaper and much better for all uses than the coarse. Beat the yolks of eggs thoroughly, or until they assume a light, froth appearance (this is as important as to whip the whites,) and strain ; set the whites away in a cool place bntil the cake is ready for them, then beat them vigorously in a cool room till they will remain in the dish when turned upside down. Rinse the cup or bowl used for yolks with part of the milk ; remember this in all cooking where yolks and milk are used. Sift a part of the measured flour with the baking powder or soda and cream tartar through a hand- sieve (which should be among the utensils of ev- ery housekeeper), and mix thoroughly with the rest of the flour. In using new flour for either bread or cake-making, it can be "ripened" for use by placing the quantity intended for baking in the hot sun for a few hours, or before the kitchen fire. In using milk, note this : that sour sieve, milk makes a spongy, light cake; sweet milk, one that cuts like pound cake ; remembering that with sour milk soda alone is used, while with sweet milk baking powder or soda and cream tartar are to be added. Having thus gathered the material, cut butter (in cold weather) into small pieces, and warm, not melt; beat the butter to a cream, then add the sugar and beat again to a cream, add the milk in small quantities (never use fresh and stale milk in same cake), next the yolks of eggs, then a part of the flour, then a part of the whites, and CAKE MAKING. 63 SO on until the whole is used ; lastly,' add the flavoring. Many good cake-makers first stir the milk and flavoring into the creamed butter and sugar, then the yolks, next the whites, and lastly the flour, first taking aboiit two-thirds of it and thoroughly mixing the baking powder through it ; the remainder of the flour is then left to be used at discretion. A little more or less flour may be needed, according to the climate, or to the kind of flour used, as the " New Process " flour requires one- ^u Cake ptr eighth less-than other brands. There is great "knack" in beating cake ; don't stir, but teat thoroughly, bringing the batter up from the bottom of the dish at every stroke ; in this way the air is driven into the cells of the batter, instead of out of them — but the cells will be finer if beaten more slowly at the last, remembering that the motion should always be upward and the spoon always come up full. In winter it is easier to beat with the hand, but in summer a wooden or silver spoon is better, and a wooden paddle is best, though some prefer the I peculiar form of siioon given in our seating spoon, illustration, the spaces through the bowl of which double the amount of work done hj it in beating cakes, eggs, etc. An iron spoon turns the mixture dark. Never beat a cake in tin, but use earthen or stoneware. Unskillful mixing, too rapid or unequal baking, or a sudden decrease in heat before it is quite done, will cause streaks in the cake. Always bake a small cake first ; fill a patty pan, or cover to a baking-powder can, one-third full, and bake ; then add more or less flour as required. If the cake is hard and solid, it needs a few teaspoons of milk ; if more flour is needed it will fall in the middle and be. spongy and crumbly. Powdered sugar may be sifted on the top of any cake while it is a little warm ; if it dissolves add more ^_ when it is cold; keep some for that pur- <3^" ' _^S!^^B pose in a spice box with a perforated top. Case Paddle. The whitc portiou of orange or lemon-peel should never be used ; grate only the yellow. When recipes call for soda and cream of tartar, baking powder may be used by taking a quantity equal to both. "Milk" always means sweet milk. "A cup" always means a tea-cup, not a coffee-cup. But in making any recipe if the same size cup is used in measuring the ingredients, the result will be the same. The regulation tea-cup means two gills, and as tea aiid coffee-cups vary so in size now, a set of regular measures, quarts, 64 CAKE MAKING. pints, gills, etc., would be advisable, two sets being really necessary, so as to have one of each size for measuring dry articles, flour, sugar, etc. In using recipes given by weight, if scales are not at hand, the table of weights and measures given in back part of book will be found a reliable guide. Sour milk may always be used instead of sweet, by using soda only. The proportions of raising powder to one quart of flour are two heaping teaspoons baking powder, or one teaspoon soda and two teaspoons cream tartar, or one pint sour milk and one level teaspoon soda. Owing to the alarming adulterations in cooking materials, a chemist advises using tartaric acid instead of cream of tartar. It costs about twice as much, but only half the quantity is needed. In blanching almonds, do not put them into the water until it comes to a boil ; let boil a few minutes after nuts are put in, then throw them into cold water, slip off the skins and dry them in the open air. Do not dry them in the oven, which takes away the oil. Prepare the day before wanted. Fruit, wedding and black cake keep well in ^^■axt'd paper, but bet- ter and longer if wrapped in tin foil, or wrap in clean towel or nap- kin wet in alcohol or whisky, re-wetting occasionally, say once a week, and set in a cool place. Chocolate loaf and white sponge or delicate cake can be made to advantage at the same time, using yolks of eggs for former and whites for latter. Cut into squares and heaped together in the cake basket they present an agreeable appearance. To make an economical marble cake, any ordinary cake recipe will do, using whites of eggs and white sugar with lemon flavoring for the light part, and the yolks, brown sugar and spices, or grated chocolate, for the dark, taking for each part half the quantity given in the recii^e. Layer cakes may be varied in the same wav, alternat- ing dark and light layers when putting together ; or, stir fruit into one or two layers. Clarified butter is much better than either lard or butter for greasing cake pans, and is prepared by putting butter over the fire in a porcelain liuwl or farina boiler until the white cheesy grains have formed in it. Then set to one side, skim off all that rises to the top, scHle and strain and bottle for future use. It will keep for years, and should be always at hand, as beside its su- periority for the purpose named above, it is especially prized for fry- CAKE MAKING. 65 Flutea Cake Pan. iag oysters, croquettes, fritters, etc. If the butter is stale or rancid, after skimming it put in one or more slices of toasted bread, which will absorb the offensive taste or odor in a few minutes. FRUIT CAKE. Most ladies think fruit cake quite incomplete without wine or brandy, but it can be made equally good on strictly temperance principles, by substituting one-third cup molasses for a wineglass of brandy. The objection to the use of brandy in sauces does not, however, hold good against that used in cake making, as the alcohol is converted to vapor by the heat and passes off with the other gases. There are many, however, who object to the use of liquors in any way and to keeping them in the house, and such will find the above an excel- lent and cheap substitute. Kaisins should never be washed, as it is difficult to dry out the moisture absorbed by them, and every particle of moisture retained tends. to make the cake heavy. To remove the stems and extraneous matter, place the raisins in a coarse towel and rub them in this un- til as clean as rubbing will make them ; then pick over carefully, re- moving any stems or other defects which may be left. The raisins should be prepared before the cake, sprinkled with flour, and added the last thing before putting it in oven, as being heavy, they sink to the bottom if allowed to stand. To seed, clip with the scissors or cut with a sharp knife. Do not chop too fine ; if for light fruit cake seeding is all that is necessary. Slice the citron thin, and do not have the pieces too large, or they will cause the cake to break apart in cutting. Currants should be kept prepared for use as follows : Wash in warm water, rubbing well, pour off water, and repeat until the water is clear ; drain them in a sieve spread on a cloth and rub dry ; pick out bad ones, dry carefully in a cool oven or in the " heater " (or in the sun and wind, with a thin gauze over them to keep off flies, insects and dust), and set away for use. ^Vhen the fruit is all mixed, cream the butter and sugar — this is very impor- tant in all cakes — add the spices, molasses, or liquors, then the milk (if any used), next the eggs well beaten, adding whites with the flour as previously directed. Always beat whites and yolks separately. Next add the flour (which, in making black fruit cake, may be browned), prepared with baking powder or soda and cream tartar, 66 CAKE MAKING. then the flavoring (lemon and vanilla, in equal parts, make the best flavoring), and lastly the fruit dredged with a.very little flour. Some prefer to mix the fruit with all the flour. When but little fruit is used it may be dropped into the dough after it is in the pan, and pushed just beneath the surface, which prevents it from settling to the bottom. The batter for fruit cake should be quite stifl". In making very large cakes that , require three or four hours to bake, an excellent way for lining the pan is the following : Fit three papers carefully, grease thoroughly, make a paste of equal parts Graham and fine flour, wet with water just stifl" enough to spread easily with a spoon, place the first paper in the pan with the greased side down, and spread the paste evenly over the pajwr about as thick as pie-crust. In covering the sides of the pan, use a little paste to stick a portion of the paper to the top of the pan to keep it from slipping out of place, press the second paper carefully into its place, with the greased side up, and next put in the third paper as you would into any baking pan, and pour in the cake. Earthen pans are used by some, as they do not heat so quickly and are less liable to burn the cake. When using a milk-pan, or pans without stems, a glass bottle filled with shot to give it weight, well greased, may be placed in the center of the pan, or a stem may be made ot paste-board, tolled up, but the latter is more troublesome to keep in place. The cake is apt to burn around the edges before it is done unless there is a tube ia the center. This handled strainer is made in several sizes and is not only a convenience in cake making for straining yolks, etc., but is also very useful for straining drinks for nursery and sick room, yeast, blanc mange, gra- vies, custards, syrups, jellies, and for sift- ing sugar upon fruit, cakes and pies, and sifting salt into butter, excluding H.adied str.i„«.. all lumps. The strainer may ])e placed over a tumbler or bowl, rest- ing on the,knob on one side and handle on the other. All except layer cakes should be covered with a paper cap, (or a sheet of brown paper, which the careful housewife will save from her grocers' packages), when first put into the oven. Take a square of brown paper large enough to cover well the cake pan, cut ofi" the cor- ners and lay a plait on four aides, fastening each with a pin so as to CAKE-MAKING. 67 fit nicely ever the pan. This will throw it up in the center, so that ' the cover will not touch the cake. Save the cap, as it can be used .several times. Before commencing, clean out the stove, take off the lids and brush inside, rake it out underneath, get all the ashes out of the cor- ners, have the best of fuel at hand. Don't build a baking fire before it is needed, have it only moderate, and add the extra fuel in time to get it nicely burning. THE OVEN. Too much care cannot be given to the preparation of the oven, which is oftener too hot than too cool ; however, an oven too cold at first will ruin any cake. But fruit cake requires a very moderate oven — not hot enough to thoroughly brown apiece of com- mon white note-paper in less thaln an hour — and a loaf of ordinary size requires from three to four hours to bake. Cake should rise and begin to bake before browning much, large cakes requiring a good, steady, solid heat, about such as for baking bread ; layer cakes, a brisk, hot fire, as they must be baked quickly. A good plan is to fill the stove with hard wood (ash is the best for baking), let it burn un- til there is a good body of heat, and then turn damper so as to throw the heat to the bottom of the oven for fully ten minutes be- fore the cake is put in. In this way a steady heat to start with is se- cured. Generally it is better to close the hearth when the cake is put in, as this stops the draft and makes a more regular heat. Keep adding wood in small quantities, for if the heat becomes slack the cake will be heavy. Great care must be taken, for some stoves need to have the dampers changed every now and then, but as a rule more heat is needed at the bottom of the oven than at the top. a\Iany test their ovens in this way : if the hand can be held in from twenty to thirty-five seconds (or while counting twenty or thirty-five), it is a "quick" oven, from thirty-five to forty-five seconds is "moderate," and from forty-five to sixty seconds is "slow." Sixty seconds is a good oven to begin with for large fruit cakes. All systematic house- keepers will hail the day when some enterprising person shall in- vent a stove or range with a thermometer attached to the oven, so that the heat may be regulated accurately and intelligently. A good test for baking sponge cake is to place a piece of white paper in the oven and let it brown. If it browns, not chars, in ten minutes the 68 ■ CAKE-MAKING. oven is right for the cake. If necessary to move the cake while baking, do it very gently. Do not open the oven door until the cake has had time to form, and do not open it oftener than necessary, then be careful to close it quickly and gently, so as not to jar the cake. Be sure the outside door of the kitchen is closed so that no cold air may strike it. If the oven bakes too hard on the bottom, place the grate under the pan ; ii too hot on top, set a pie-pan of water on the top grate. If one side bakes faster than the other, turn very gently. Be careful "pSfpLT" not to remove from the oven until done; test tlioT' oughly before removing, fjr if the cooler air strikes it before it is done it is certain to fall. Allow about thirty minutes for each inch of thickness in a quick oven, and more time in a slow one. Test with a broom-splint or knitting-needle, and if the dough does not adhere, it is done. Settling away from the pan a little, and stopping its "singing," are other indications that the cake is ready to leave the oven. When removed, set the cake, while in the pan, on an inverted sieve to cool ; this secures a free circulation of air all around it, and cools it evenly. It should re- main in the pan at least fifteen minutes after taking from the oven, and it is better to leave the 'cap" on until the cake is carefully re- moved from the pan and set away, always right side up. A tin chest or stone jar is best to keep it in. Coffee cake should be put away before it is cold, and so closely wrapped in a large napkin that the aroma will not be lost. The patent pan with perforated cover, illustrated, is highly recommended for baking cakes. Cakes in fancy forms are baked in molds, the Turkish-head mold being most commonly used. When baking in a brick oven the mold is used with a cover, but in a stove oven the cover is removed and a stem placed inside, but can be used without stem. If mold when inverted has not suffi- cient base (most molds are more or less conical) to stand in oven, make a pasteboard box which will support it, as heat sufficient to bake any delicate or fruit cake will not burn the pasteboard. Many persons frost the bottom of cake instead of the top, as it presents a smooth surface. SPONGE AND WHITE CAKES. The good quality of all delicate cake, especially of sponge-cake. CAKE MAKING. 6& depends Very much upon its being made with fresh eggs. It oaa never be perfect unless pulverized sugar is used. It must be quickly- put together, beaten with rapidity, and baked in a rather quick oven. It is made " sticky " and less light by being stirred long. There is no other cake so dependent upon care and good judgment in baking as sponge-cake. In making \white cake, if not convenient to use the yolks that are left, they will keep for sever- al days if thoroughly beaten and set in a cool place. The whites of eggs, when not used, must not be beaten, but will keep for several days if set in a cool place. The Wire WHISK, . '' . | white or yolk of a medium-sized egg weighs one ounce, a fact that it is convenient to know, as ' sometimes the white or yolk of one or more eggs is wanted from several that have been put away Dover EggBeatef. together. Whenever it is necessary to cut a cake while warna, do it with a warm knife. To prepare cocoa-nut, cut a hole through the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, and set the pieces in the' heater or in a cool, open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to dry, then grate ; if all is not used, sprinkle with sugar (after grating) and spread out in a cool, dry place, and it will keep for weeks. If dessicated is used moisten with milk before' using. Almond, Hickory-nut or Cocoa-nut Cake. — One pound flour, half teaspoon salt, fourth pound butter, pound sugar, tea-cup sour cream, four eggs, lemon flavor to taste, and a teaspoon soda dissolv- ed in two teaspoons hot water ; mix all thoroughly, grate in the white part of a cocoa nut, or stir in a pint chopped hickory-nuts, or a pint blanched almonds pounded. Almond Cake. — Blanch and pound to a paste three ounces sweet and one ounce bitter almonds, shelled. To three-fourths pound sugar gradually add yolks of twenty-four eggs and stir until light, then add the almond pulp, the juice and grated rind one lem- on, a pinch mace, and beat until it thickens. Beat whites six eggs to a firm froth, adding by pinches a tablespoon powdered sugar and stir it in, one-third at a time, with the above mixture. Lastly add 70 CAKE MAKING. four ounces flour well sifted with one ounce corn starch. Mix well, pour into round pans two inches thick, if it is to be iced, or into square pans one inch thick if intended for slicing, bake in moderate oven and turn out at once. Angel Cake. — Whites twelve eggs, one and one-half tumblers sifted powdered sugar, one tumbler sifted flour, one teaspoon each vanilla and cream tartar. The tumblers for meas- uring should hold two and one-fourth gills. Beat eggs in a bowl to as fine a froth as possible and add one-half tumbler sifted sugar, gradually beating in two tablespoons at a time, and stir into this mix- "^^^"cSTpIir" ture the teaspoon vanilla ; sift the cream tartar with the flour, then sift flour and remaining tumbler sugar jtogether four times, and put with the first mixture with as little stirring as will mix and combine them thoroughly and smoothly. The dough should be very light and feathery. Test the oven by laying in it a piece of white paper, which should brown, not char, in ten minutes. A pan made express- ly for this purpose should be used, and can be ordered of any tinner. It should be about eight inches in diameter, three inches deep, with a funnel in the center two inches in diameter at the bottom tapering to an inch and a half at top, and be provided with legs half an inch high. May be smooth or fluted edges as preferred. Do not grease the pan, but line it with clean manilla paper kept for the purpose. Bake forty minutes and do not open the oven for the first fifteen. It should rise to the top of the pan tjut may shrink a little. When done turn the pan upside down and let stand one hour, when if it does not drop out readily the edges may be carefully loosened with a knife. Ice the hottom with transparent glaze made as follows : Take one and one-half cups sifted powdered sugar, whites two eggs that have not been beaten, and as much cold water as eggs ; stir very hard with a whisk or egg beater until perfectly smooth ; now add three-fourths cup of confectioner's sugar known as " XXX," and enough water to bring it to a smooth paste free from lumps, adding the sugar a little at a time and stirring constantly. Ice cake smoothly with this and set in a real hot oven for a second or two to harden. If preferred use boiled icing. Any cake pan may be used, but it should be placed on a pie tin while baking. It is well to cover with the paper cap, heretofore described, while baking. Apple Cake. — Soak two cups dried apples •ver night, in the morning drain and chop fine in chopping bowl ; add one cup mo- lasses and let it boil slowly on back of stove three or four hours ; let it cool and add one and a half cups brown sugar, one cup butter, half cup sour milk, one tbaspoon each cloves, allspice and cinnamon, one teaspoon soda, three eggs', three and one-half cups flour ; bake in two square tins, or one five-quart basin ; if baked in latter, bake slowly two hours. Very nice and will keep six months. CAKE MAKING. 71 Blach Cake. — One pound powdered white sugar, three-quarters pound butter, pound sifted flour (brown or not as preferred), twelve eggs beaten separately, two pounds raisins stoned and part of them chopped, two of currants carefully cleaned, half pound citron cut in strips, quarter ounce each cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves mixed, wine- glass wine and one of brandy ; rub butter and sugar together, add yolks of eggs, part of flour, the spice, and whites of eggs well beaten ; then add remainder of flour, and wine and brandy ; mix all thor- oughly together ; cover bottom and sides of a four-quart milk-pan with buttered white paper, put in a layer of the mixture, then a layer of the fruit (first dredging the fruit with flour) until pan is filled up three or four inches. A small cup of Orleans molasses makes the cake blacker and more moist, but for this it is not necessary to add more flour. Bake three and one-half or four hours in a slow oven. This is excellent. Black Cake. — Two cups brown sugar, one and one-half cups butter, six eggs beaten separately, three cups flour (brown the flour), two tablespoons molasses, one of cinnamon, one teaspoon each mace and cloves, two cups sweet milk, two pounds each raisins and cur- rants, a half pound citron, one teaspoon soda, two ©f cream tartar. Bake three hours. Bread Cake. — Three coffee-cups yeast dough, light enough to bake for bread, two and two-thirds cups- sugar, one cup butter,. three eggs, one nutmeg ; put all together, and work with the hands until smooth as pound-cake. It is very important that all should be mixed very thoroughly with the light dough. Add raisins and as much fruit as desired, and let rise half an hour in the pans in which you bake. The oven should be about right for bread. This is easily made, and is quite as nice as common loaf-cake. Leave out fruit and add from a half to a whole tablespoon caraway, coriander, card- amon, or fennel seeds, or a mixture of all, and this recipe makes a nice Seed Cake. Bread Cake. — Two cups light bread dough, one and one-half cups sugar, half cup butter, three tablespoons sour milk in which has been dissolved half teaspoon soda, half a grated nutmeg, teaspoon cinnamon, cup raisins chopped a little and floured ; stir all well to- gether, adding fruit last ; let rise half an hour and bake in a mod- erate oven. Bride's Cake.^ — Whites twelve eggs, three cups sugar, small cup butter, cup sweet riiilk, four small cups flour, half cup corn starch, '.wo teaspoons baking powder, lemon to taste. A perfect cake. Ad- , ding a cup citron sliced thin and dusted with flour makes a beauti- ful Citron Cake. Bride Cake. — One pound each butter and sugar, one gin double cream, one-half pint brandy, one pound two ounces flour, two pounds Jv^72 CAKE MAKING. 2ante currants, washed and picked, two pounds raisins, seeded and chopped, two pounds sultanas, washed, picked and dried, one and one-half pounds citron, cut into long, thin strips, two tablespoons einnamon, two grated nutmegs, one teaspoon mace, one tablespoon each powdered cloves^ powdered allspice and orange flower water. Rub butter and sugar together until smooth ; whip whites sixteen eggs to stiff froth and stir them into the cream, one-third at a time, working until smooth ; mix flour with fruits and spices until all are evenly diffused and stir all together, adding the orange flower last. Beat the whole very lively, pour into long, square pans lined with buttered paper, smooth over with wet knife blade, and bake in moderate oven three hours. If too hot at bottom put several . ^^-_ folds of paper under pans, or cover with paper "^ Bride c.ke Pm. if too hot at top. Do not turn out until cold. Rub with flour, wipe with cloth, ice with white of egg icing and finish with chocolate icing. Will keep for a year or more. If to be eaten within a week or two no brandy is needed. When properly and carefully made, 0ne>of the richest and best. Buckeye Cake. — One cup butter, two of white sugar, four of sifted flour, five eggs beaten separately, one cup sour milk, teaspoon soda, pound seeded raisins chopped a little ; beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks and milk, and stir in the flour with soda well mixed through it ; then add the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and lastly the raisins dredged with a little flour ; (one- fourth pound sliced citron is a nice addition) ; bake one and one- half hours. Use coffee-cups to measure. This makes a cake for a six-quart pan, or two large loaves, and is a very economical yet de- licious fruit cake. In making half the recipe "use three yolks and two whites for the cake, reserving the extra white for frosting. Caramel Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar, a scant cup milk, one and a half cups flour, cup cornstarch, whites seven 62?!?, three teaspoons baking powder in the flour; bake in a long pan.' Take half pound brown sugar, scant quarter pound chocolate, half cup milk, butter size of an egg, two teaspoons vanilla ; mix thoroughly and cook as syrup until stiff enough to spread ; spread on cake an(i set in the oven to dry . Carolina Cake (Without eggs).— Rub two large tablespoons butter into one coffee-cup powdered sugar, add one-half cup sweet cream, one-half teaspoon soda, one and one-half cups flour ; bake" quickly in small tins or gem-pans, and send to table warm. Charlotte Cachee Cake. — Cut a thick loaf of sponge or other plain cake into flve or six slices horizontallv of uniform width Spread each slice with jelly, using first tart and then sweet iellv if vou have both, fit them together again in the loaf and ice all over "with the whipped whites of five eggs and enough powdered sugar to make a CAKE-MAKING. 73 stiff icing, adding the juice of one lemon. Set in slow oven for a few minutes to harden. A quick and easy way -to prepare a fancy cake for tea when company appears unexpectedly. Cheap Cake. — Beat two eggs in a cup and fill up l^^^^P!B^|L with thick sour cream ; add one cup sugar, one and ^^^g^^^p one-half cups flour, one even teaspoon soda. Flavor smaii oake Tm». to taste and bake in small pans. May be iced and marked in gold, as in directions for icing. Chocolate Calce. — One cup butter, three of brown sugar, one of sweet milk, four of flour, yolks seven eggs, nine tablespoons grated Saker's chocolate, three teaspoons baking powder. This maybe baked as a layer cake, making a white cake of whites of eggs, baking in layers and putting" them together with frosting, alternating the layers. Chocolate Marble Cake. — Make a batter as for white cake, take out one cup, add to it five tablespoons grated chocolate, moisten with milk and fiavor with vanilla ; pour a layer of the white batter into the baking-pan, then drop the chocolate batter with a spoon in spots, and 'spread the remainder of the white batter over it. Cincinnati Calce. — Pour over one pound fat salt pork, chopped fine and free from lean and rind, one pint boiling water ; let stand until nearly cold ; add two cups brown sugar, one of molasses, one tablespoon each cloves and nutmeg, and two of cinnamon, two pounds raisins, fourth pound citron, half glass brandy, three tea- spoons baking powder, and seven cups sifted flour. Bake slowly two and a half hours. This is excellent, and requires neither butter nor eggs. Citron Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, one cup milk, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, and pinch salt. After the above has been put in the pan, cut the citron thin and put into the cake endways, pushing down ^ntil the batter covers it. This will prevent the citron falling to the bottom. Cocoa-nut Cake. — One cup butter, three of sugar, one sweet milk, four and a half flour, four eggs with whites beaten to a stifi" froth, a teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one grated cocoa-nut or one- fourth pound prepared cocoanut. Corn- Starch Cake. — Two coffee-cups pulverized sugar, three- fourths cup butter, cup corn starch dissolved in cup sweet milk, two cups flour, whites seven eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar teaspoon Boda, or two teaspoons baking powder mixed thoroughly with flx)ur : cream butter and sugar, add starch and milk, then add whites and flour gradually until all is used. Flavor with lemon or rose. CoiFee Cake. — Two cups brown sugar, one of butter, one of mo- "74 CAKE-MAKING. lasses, one of strong coflfee as prepared for the table, four eggs, one teaspoon saleratus, two ^ach cinnamon and cloves, one of grated nutmeg, pound each raisins and currants, four cups flour. Coifee Cake. — One cup brown sugar, cup molasses, half cup butter, cup strong coffee, one egg or yolks of two, four even cups flour, heaping teaspoon soda in the flour, tablespoon cinnamon, tea- spoon cloves, two pounds raisins, fourth pound citron. Soften the butter, beat with the sugar, add the egg, spices, molasses, and coffee, then the flour, and lastly the fruit dredged with a little flour. Bake one hour in moderate oven, or make in two small loaves which will bake in a short time. This may be made without the egg. Delicate Cahe. — Three cups sifted flour, two ot sugar, three- fourths cup sweet milk, whites of six eggs, half cup butter, teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. Flavor with lemon. Good and easily made. Delicate Cake. — Cream one-half pound butter with one pound powdered sugar, add whites sixteen eggs beaten stiff, half a nutmeg grated, and one teaspoon rose water. Stir well together and add gradually one pound sifted flour. Bake at once in moderate oven. Eagless Cake. — One and a half teacups sugar, one of sour mUk, three (level) of sifted flour, half cup butter, teaspoon soda, half tea- spoon cinnamon, half teaspoon grated nutmeg, cup raisins chopped and well floured. Eggless Cake (Plain).— -One cup sugar, half cup butter, half cup sweet milk, two cups flour, one teaspoon cream tartar, half tea- spoon soda. Everlasting Cake. — Beat together the yolks of six eggs and three-fourths pint white sugar, add one and a half pints blanched and shelled almonds, half pound sliced citron well floured, and the whipped whites with one and a half pints sifted flour ; pour one and a half inches thick in well-greased dripping pans, bake in a quick oven, and, when done, cut slices one inch thick across the cake, turn each slice over on its side, return to oven and bake a short time. When cold place in a tin box. These will keep a year and a half or more. Election Cake. — Five pounds sifted flour, two of butter, two of sugar, three gills distillery jreast, or twice the quantity of home brewed, four eggs, gill each wine and brandy, one quart sweet milk, half an ounce of nutmeg, two pounds raisins, one of citron ; rub but- ter and flour together very fine, add half the sugar, then the yeast and half the milk (hot in winter, blood-warm in summer), then add eggs, then remainder of milk and the wine ; beat well and let rise in a warm place all night ; in the morning beat along time, adding brandy, sugar, spice, and fruit well floured, and allow to rise again very light CAKE-MAKING. 75 after which put in cake pans and let rise ten or fifteen minutes ; have the oven about as hot as for bread. This cake will keep any length of time. For raised cakes use potato yeast if fresh made ; it is always a perfect success. This recipe is over one hundred years old. Feather Cake. — One cup white sugar, one teaspoon melted but- ter, one egg, two-thirds cup milk, two cups sifted flour, two tea- spoons cream tartar and one of soda sifted in flour. Flavor with lemon. Delicious and cheap. Fig Cake. — Two cups sugar, one small cup butter, one cup sweet milk, three and one-half cups flour, whites eight eggs beaten stifi", two teaspoons baking powder, one pound figs split ; put in a layer of batter and then one of figs, and so on until all is used. Choice Fig Cake. — A large cup butter, two and a half of sugar, one of sweet milk, three pints flour with three teaspoons baking pow- der, whites sixteen eggs, a pound and a quarter figs well floured and cut in strips like citron ; no flavoring. Marbled Fig Cake. — Light part : one cup sugar, one-third cup butter, one-third cup sweet milk, four eggs, whites only, one and one- half teaspoons baking powder, one and one-half cups flour. Dark part : one-half cup brown sugar, one-third cup butter, one-third cup milk, one teaspoon baking powder, one cup flour, four egg-yolks and one whole egg, one teaspoon allspice, one teaspoon cinnamon, one pound figs sliced ; put in a layer of the dark with figs on top, then a layer of the light, and so on till all is used, in a deep cake-pan. Fruit Cake. — One cup butter, one of brown sugar, half pint mo- lasses, two eggs, cup sour-milk, teaspoon soda, pound each flour and currants, one and a half pound raisins. Flavor to taste. This has been thoroughly tested and is a great favorite. Fruit Cake. — Twelve eggs, one and a half pounds each of but- ter, sugar and flour, two pounds each raisins and currants, one pound ^^^ ^^^ ^ citron, one half pint molasses, one dunce each ^^^^^^'T^^^.^ nutmeg, mace and cloves, one and a half glasses ^^P^^^^gSy jelly (grape is best), one-fourth pint each wine Fruit cake7 aud braudy, more flour if needed. Put dough in pans, set in steamer, taking care that the cover is made to fit very tight ; if necessary, put cloth under the lid and shut it down on it, taking care that it does not touch the cake, or lay several thicknesses of cloth over the lid. Steam two hours and bake one hour. Fruit Loaf Cake. — One cup butter, two brown sugar, one New Orleans molasses, one sweet milk, three eggs, five cups sifted flour, two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, teaspoon soda in the milk, tablespoon cinnamon, one nutmeg, one pound each raisins and cur- rants, quarter pound citron (citron may be omitted, and half the 76 CAKE-MAKING. quantity of raisins and currants will do). Put flour in a large crock, mix well with cream tartar, make a well in the center, put in other ingredients, having warmed the butter and molasses a little ; mis. well together with the hands, putting in the fruit last after it has been floured ; bake two hours in a moderate oven. This will make two common sized loaves. Fruit Cake. — One pound each brown sugar, butter, eggs and flour, two each raisins and currants, half pound citron, a nutmeg, tablespoon cloves, one of allspice, half pint brandy, and two tea- ■epoons baking powder. After baking, while yet warm, pour over cake a half pint wine. This makes the cake delicious. Excellent Fruit OaJce. — One and a half pounds raisins, one and a fourth pounds currants, three-fourths pound citron, pound each butter and sugar, one and one-fourth pounds flour, ten eggs,, two tablespoons lemon, two teaspoons yeast powder ; mix a fourth pound of the flour in the fruit. German Fruit Oahe. — Sift one pound flour into pan in a heap and make a hole in the top ; in this put half teaspoon salt, one tea- spoon cinnamon, twelve ounces butter, and two ounces pulverized sugar. Mix and add yolks of eight eggs and a little cold water,^ leaving it a stiff dough ; wrap it in a clean cloth, and set in a cool place for an hour. In the summer it ought to be put on ice. Thia can be used for a variety of layer cakes. Roll out some of the dough about quarter of an inch thick, cut it round and put it on piece white paper cut to fit ; cut a strip of dough an inch wide, and stand it up around the edge, and take a strip of white paper and paste around the cake and to the paper under it so as to keep it in shape. Into this dish of dough put enough apricot marmalade to coyer the bottom, over this put a layer of dough cut in little bis- cuits, then a layer of preserved cherries, then another layer of little- biscuits. Chop two ounces beef's marrow fine, and cover over the top ; put it on a tin carefully, and set in a slow oven. While this is baking mix yolks of six eggs, four ounces sugar, one-half quart thick cream, and a cup cherry juice, and put over cake when half bak- ed. _ When it is well settled put back in the oven again and let re- main till done. Turn on a large plate and serve while warm. Jam Fruit Oahe. — One and a half cups brown sugar, two of flour, one each butter and chopped raisins, three eggs, three table- spoons sour milk, half teaspoon soda, half cup blackberry jam. This is excellent as well as economical. Pepper Fruit Cake.—YoYks seven eggs, two cups brown sugar,, ene cup each molasses, butter and sour cream, one teaspoon each, soda and pepper, one teaspoon each cinnamon, allspice and cloves, one quart ftour, one pound raisins, half pound currants, fourth. CAKE-MAKING. 77 pound citron, wine glass brandy. See directions for preparing fruit in cake preface. Pound Fruit Cake. — One pound each flour, brown sugar, citron, raisins, currants, candied fruits (figs and dates) mixed nuts, (shell- ed), butter, twelve eggs, one teaspoon each ground cloves and cin- namon, one pint best brandy, one cup molasses. Brown the flour, chop nuts slightly and add whites of eggs, beaten separately, last. Bake four to five hours in slow oven. Scotch Fruit CaJce. — A cup butter, two of white sugar, four of sifted flour, three-fourths cup sour milk, half teaspoon soda, nine eggs beaten separately, one pound raisins, half pound currants, a fourth pound citron ; cream the butter and sugar, add milk gradu- ally, then beaten yolks of eggs, and lastly, while stirring in flour, the whites well whipped. Flavor with one teaspoon each lemon and vanilla extract, and have raisins chopped a little, or, better still, seeded, and citron sliced thin. Wash and dry currants before using, and flour all fruit slightly. In putting cake in pan, place first a thin layer of cake, then sprinkle in some of the three kinds of fruit, then a layer of cake, and so on, always finishing off" with a thin layer of cake. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Tested by many and has never failed. Groom's Cake. — Ten eggs beaten separately, one pound each. butter, white sugar, and flour, two of almonds blanched and chop- ped fine, one of seeded raisins, half pound citron, shaved fine ; the juice and rind of one lemon may be added ; beat butter to a cream, add sugar gradually, then the well-beaten yolks ; stir all till very light, and add the chopped almonds ; beat the whites stiff and add gently with the flour ; take a little more flour and sprinkle over the- raisins and citron, then put in the cake-pan, first a layer of cake batter, then a layer of raisins and citron, then cake, and'so on till all is used, finishing off' with a layer of cake. Bake in a moderate oven two hours. Hard- Money Cake. — Gold part : Yolks of eight eggs, scant cup butter, two of sugar, four of flour, one of sour milk, teaspoon' soda, tablespoon corn starch ; flavor with lemon and vanilla. Silver part ; Two cups sugar, one of butter, four (scant) of flour, one of sour milk, teaspoon soda, tablespoon corn starch, whites eight eggs; flavor with almond or peach. Put in pan, alternately, one spoon each gold and silver. Hayes Cake. — One cup sugar, half cup butter, three eggs beaten well together, level teaspoon soda stirred in half cup sour -milk, twa small cups flour; flavor with lemon, pour in small dripping-pan,, bake half an hour, and cut in squares. Hickory-Nut Cake.^r^'wo cups sugar, one of milk, two-thirds 78 CAKE-MAKING. cup butter, three of flour, three eggs, two teaspoons baking powder, a cup nut-kernels cut fine. Tried, and not found wanting. Without nuts makes a good layer cake for any filling. Hiohory-nut Cake. — A cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, one of sweet milk, whites of seven and yolks of two eggs, a teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one pint hickory-nut meats rolled and sprinkled with flour ; beat whites to stiff froth. Rich and excellent. Huckleberry Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, three cups flour, five eggs, one cup sweet milk, one teaspoon soda, dissolved in hot water, one teaspoon each of nutmeg and cinnamon, one quart berries, dredged well with flour. Stir them in carefully. Bake in loaf Lady^s Cake. — One-half cup butter, one and a half of sugar, two of flour, nearly one of sweet milk, half teaspoon soda, one of cream tartar, whites four eggs well beaten ; flavor with peach or al- mond. Yellow Lady''s Cake. — One and a half cups flour, one of sugar, half cup each butter and sweet milk, teaspoon soda, two teaspoons cream tartar, yolks four eggs, teaspoon vanilla. Lemon Cake. — One pound each flour and sugar, three-f©urths pound butter, seven eggs, juice of one and rind of two lemons. The sugar, butter and yolks of eggs must be beaten a long time, adding by degrees the flour, and the whites of eggs last. A tumbler and a half sliced citron may be added. This keeps well Loaf Ca^e.— Two cups sugar and one of butter beaten to a cream, three eggs, the whites beaten separately, three cups flour with one teaspoon cream tartar stirred in, yolks of the eggs stirred well with the sugar and butter ; now add^ two cups more flour with one teaspoon cream tartar, one cup sweet milk and the whites of the eggs, and then stir again ; add one nutmeg, one pound raisins or currants dredged with flour, one teaspoon soda dissolved in four tablespoons water. This makes two nice loaves, and is excellent. French Loaf Cake.—FvvQ cups sugar, three of butter two of milk, ten of flour, six eggs, three nutmegs, pound seeded raisins a grated lemon, small teaspoon soda, two-thirds cup Orleans molasses. Old-FasMoned Loaf Cake.—Thxte pounds (three quarts sifted and well heaped) flour one and a fourth pounds (a rounded pint of soft) butter, one and three-fourths pounds (one quart) sugar five giUs new milk, half pint yeast, three eggs, two pounds raismsVhalf pound citron may be added, but most excellent without), teaspoon CAKE-MAKING. 7& soda, fourth pint molasses, two teaspoons each cinnamon and nut- meg. Scald the milk, cool to blood-warm, add the yeast, then the flour, to which all the but- ter and half the sugar have been added ; then mix together, and let rise until light. It is better to set this sponge overnight, and in the Loaf-cako. morning add the other ingredients (flouring raisins) and let rise again. When light, fill baking pans and let rise again. Bake in a moderate oven. This recipe makes three large loaves, and is a stand- ard, economical loaf-cake. Marble Cake. — Dark part : Yolks three eggs, one-half cup but- ter, one cup brown sugar, one tablespoon molasses, one-half cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one and one-third cups flour, spices to taste and one cup raisins and currants, or leave out spices and fruit and use three tablespoons grated chocolate. Light part : Whites three eggs, one-half cup corn starch, one cup white sugar, one-half cup each sweet milk and butter, one cup flour, one teaspoon baking powder. Alternate the light and dark parts by spoonfuls or layers, or both, in tin before baking. Marile OaJce. — White part : Whites seven eggs, three cups white sugar, one of butter, one of sour milk, four of flour, sifted and heap- ing, one teaspoon soda; flavor to taste. Dark part: Yolks seven eggs, three cups brown sugar, one of butter, one of sour milk, four of flour, sifted and heaping, one tablespoon each cinnamon, allspice and cloves, one teaspoon soda ; put in pans a spoonful of white part and then of dark, and so on. Bake an hour and a quarter. " Use coffee-cups to measure. This will make one large and one m,edium cake. The white and dark parts are alternated, either by putting in a spoonful of white, then of dark, or a layer of white and then of dark part, being careful that the cake may be nicely "marbleized." One-Egg OaTce. — One cup butter, one and a half cups sugar, three of flour, one of sweet milk, one egg, teaspoon soda, two tea- spoons cream tartar in the flour, cup raisins chopped fine. Orange CaTce. — T|jb cups sugar, four eggs, leaving out whites of two, half cup butter, one of water, two teaspoons baking powder, three cups flour, juice, grated rind, and pulp of one orange ; use the remaining whites for frosting the top. Plum Cakk. — Cut one pound butter in small pieces and work ^^^^^5^^^ into two and one-half pounds flour with half a jg^^^^^l nutmeg, grated, and two pounds currants, picked "^Jlf"'' I 1 illig ^ and washed. Add one pound sugar and six ^^fcg==iL=^-3K' yolks eggs rubbed together, one-half pint each Fruit Cake. yeast and cream and work to a smooth batter. Pound one-half pound shelled and blanched almonds with a little rose water to a paste and add with one-fourth pound citron 80 CAKE-MAKING. and one-fourth pound candied orange and lemon peels, sliced and dredged. Let rise and bake in paper lined pans in moderate oven. Peanut Cake. — One-half cup butter, one and one-half cups milk, two and one-half cups flour, whites four eggs, one-half tea- spoon cream tartar, one-quarter teaspoon soda ; just before putting into oven sprinkle over top one cup peanuts broken into pieces. Poor-MarCs Cake. — Three cups bread dough, two cups sugar, one of butter, two eggs, mix well, put in spice to taste, and fruit if preferred. Let rise and bake in brisk oven. Do not use any flour. Citron Pound Cake. — One pound each sugar and flour, three- fourths pound butter, eight large or ten small eggs, one and one- fourth pounds citron finely shredded ; cream butter and sugar, add the yolks, then the flour and well-whipped whites ; put layer of bat- ter in cake-pan and sprinkle thickly with citron, then another layer of batter, etc., till pan is filled. Bake s'lowly one and a half to two hours. Pyramid Pound Cake. — One pound each sugar, butter and flour, ten eggs ; bake in a dripping-pan one inch in thickness and cut when cold into pieces three and a half inches long by two wide, or bake in sponge cake pans, and frost top and sides ; form on the cake stand in pyramid before the icing is quite dry by lajdng first in a circle, five pieces with some space between them ; over the spaces between these lay five other pieces, gradually drawing in the column and crowning the top with a bouquet of flowers. White Pound Cake. — One pound each sugar and flour, half pound butter, whites sixteen eggs, teaspoon baking powder sifted thoroughly with flour ; put in cool oven with gradual increase of heat. For boiled icing, three cups sugar boiled in one of water until clear ; beat whites three eggs to very stiff froth and pour over them the boiling liquid, healing all the time for ten minutes ; fi-ost while both cake and icing are warm. Rice Cake. — One pound each sugar and .gt-oiuid rice, half pound butter, nine eggs, rose-water to taste ; add ftnittle salt, beat butter and sugar together, add rose-water, salt and eggs, lastly the rice : bake in shallow pans. Snow Ca/ce.— Half cup butter, one of sugar, one and a half sifted flour, half cup sweet milk, whites four eggs, teaspoon bakin<' powder ; flavor with lemon. ° Snow Cake. — Beat one-half pound butter to a cream, stir in one- half pound granulated sugar and one pound arrowroot flour gradu- ally, beating steadily ; add whipped whites six eggs, and beat well twenty minutes ; flavor to taste with essence almonds, vanilla or lemon. Bake in moderate oven one to one and one-half hours. CAKE-MAKING. 8\ Spice Cake. (Without Eggs) — One heaping cup sugar, one- half cup butter, one and one-half cups sour milk, one teaspoon each cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, one cup fruit, one teaspoon soda; stir in flour until it will just drop from the spoon. Spice Cake. — Three eggs, one cup butter, one cup brown sugar, four cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one cup each molas- ses and milk, one teaspoon each extract nutmeg, cinnamon and ground cloves. Sponge Cake. — Beat to a cream four eggs and a large coffee-cup white sugar. Sift two teaspoons baking powder with two cups flour, and stir this in carefully with sugar and eggs, then add two-thirds cup boiling water. Flavor to taste. Beat lightly together and bake in four-quart pan. The hot water makes it deliciously tender. Sponge Cake Paus. Sponge Cake. — Three eggs, one and a half cups powdered sugar, two sifted flour, two tea- spoons cream tartar, half cup cold water, teaspoon soda, grat- ed rind and half the juice one lemon ; bake in dripping-pan, or in sponge cake pans given in cut. Sponge Cake. — Twelve eggs, one and one-third pints pulverized sugar, one and a half pinfs flour, measured before sifting, small tea- spoon salt, heaping teaspoon baking powder, essence of lemon for flavor ; beat whites to very stiff froth and add sugar ; beat yolks, strain and add them to whites and sugar; put three tablespoons cold water in bowl where yolks were beaten, stir until all yolk is taken up, and add batter and beat the whole thoroughly ; mix baking pow- der and salt in the flour and add last, stirring in small quantities at a time ; bake one hour in a six-quart pan in a moderate oven. This makes one very large cake. By weight use one pound pulverized sugar and three-fourths pound flaur. . • Sponge Cake.^One pound each sugar and flour, ten eggs ; stir yolks of eggs and sugar till perfectly light; beat whites and add them with the flour after beating together lightly ; flavor with lemon, j Three teaspoons baking powder in the flour will add to its lightness, but it never fails without. Bake in a moderate oven. Lemon Sponge Cake.— One lemon, three gills flour, one pint sugar, eight eggs ; beat yolks of eggs thoroughly, add sugar little by little, and the grated rind of the lemon ; beat whites of eggs to stiff, froth, and add them alternately with the flour, beating very gently and 'barely long eneugh to mix well ; when part of the flour is in, idd the lemon juice. Bake twenty minutes, in small loaves. 82 CAKE-MAKING. Philadelphia Sponge Cake. — Weigh ingredients and prepare baking pans, then pour one gill boiling water on three-quarters pound sugar in a bowl ; stir it, cover and let stand on the table until yolks of six eggs are beaten, add the grated rind of half a lemon to the eggs ; froth whites and pour yolks on them, beat thoroughly togeth- er, then add the syrup (sugar arid water) and beat ten minutes, or till thick, sift in half pound flour, mixing very gently with a knife, add juice of half a lemon, pour in pans and bake from twenty to thirt}' minutes. The syrup is sometimes left on the range, and when boiling is poured into the eggs which are then beaten until cold. The eggs thicken more quickly in this way, and the cake is excellent,, but perhaps not quite as moist as that made with cold syrup. This cake has the advantage of keeping much longer than ordinary sponge cake. White Sponge Cake. — Sift together one cup powdered sugar, one-half cup each flour and corn starch, one teaspoon baking pow- der. Have ready the whites of eight eggs beaten to stiff froth and one tablespoon rose extract, mix thoroughly and bake in square tin& about two inches deep in quick oven. Serve cut in small squares. Ten Minute Cake. — One-fourth pound butter, a little less than a pound flour, the same of sugar, six eggs beaten separately ; flavor with mace and bake in muffin rings. TUden Cake. — One cup butter, two of pulverized sugar, one of sweet milk, three of flour, half cup corn starch, four eggs, two tea- spoons each baking powder and lemon extract. Adding a quarter pound citron sliced fine makes an economical Citron Cake, using extra half cup starch. Either cake is very easily made, and when well beaten is almost a white cake. Is very delicious and never fails. Tin- Wedding Cake. — Rub one cup butter and three of sugar to a cream ; add one cup milk, four of flour, five eggs, one teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, one-fourth pound citron. This makes two loaves. Watermelon Cake. — White part* Two cups white sugar, one each of butter and sweet milk, three and a half of flour, whites eight eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar, one of soda dissolved in a little » warm water. Eed part : One cup red sugar, Aalf cup butter, third cup sweet milk, two cups flour, whites four eggs, teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, cup raisins ; be careful to keep the red part around the tube of the pan and the white around the edge. It requires two persons to fill the pan. This is a very attractive and ornamental cake. White Cake.— One cup butter, two of sugar, one of sweet milk, three of flour, whites five eggs, two teaspoons baking powder. Easily- made, and very good. A very handsome cake may be made from. CAKE-MAKING. 83 this recipe by coloring one-fourth of the dough with a small tea- spoon cochineal liissolved in a little hot water and strained through a piece of muslin. When the batter is put into the tin, marble with this red dough. Ice it when baked. Whipped-Oream Cake. — One cup sugar, two eggs, two table- spoons softened butter and four of milk ; beat all well together ; add a cup of tiour in which has been mixed teaspoon cream tartar and half teaspoon soda. Bake in rather small square dripping-pan. When cake is cool have ready a half pint sweet cream whipped to a stiff froth, sweeten and flavor to taste, spread over cake and serve while fresh. The cream will froth easier to be made -cold by setting on ice before whipping. White Perfection Cake. — Three cups sugar, one of butter, one of milk, three of flour, one of corn starch, whites twelve eggs beaten to a stiff froth, two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, and one of soda in half the milk ; dissolve the corn starch in the rest of the milk, and add it to the sugar and butter well beaten together, then the milk and soda, and the flour and whites of eggs. This cake is rightly named "Perfection." German Yeast Cake. — Take one pound melted butter, put into a glazed dish and beat for half an hour, until it foams and seems twice the quantity ; take the yolks of eighteen eggs, and twelve ounces warmed flour ; stir one yolk and one large spoon flour into the batter, at a time, till all are used up. Add two tablespoons sugar one teaspoon salt, four or five tablespoons good yeast. Stir these well together, then add the whites of six eggs, well beaten ; grease the mold with fresh butter, and sprinkle a little flour in it ; then put the dough in, and cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise. Let it rise till an inch from the top of the mold, then put in a slow oven and bake for an hour. It must not be moved in the oven, while baking, as it will make hollow places in the cake, and will be im- perfect when turned out. When it is done, turn out of the mold carefully and sprinkle with sugar while hot. Yule Cake. — Cream two and one-half cups butter and three cups sugar; add ten beaten eggs, four cups flour with two teaspoons baking powder, four cups currants, two-thirds cup chopped citron, one teaspoon grated nutmeg, and quarter teaspoon powdered cloves. Bake in a well-greased, paper-lined tin, in a moderate oven two and one-half hours ; or bake in patty pans and frost with chocolate icing. Zephyr Gake. — Wash the salt out of nearly a quarter pound butter ; add a quarter pound powdered sugar and three well-beaten eggs, a teaspoon rosewater, and sifted flour enough to make a thin batter ; stir with a wooden spoon till batter is perfectly smooth and so light that it will break when it falls against the sides of the mix- ing crock ; fill well-buttered patty pans nearly half full with the bat- ter, and bake in quick oven ; serve warm. Excellent tea cakes. 84 LAYER CAKES. Zufolos. — Sift together tea-cup powdered sugar, rounded coffee' cup flour and teaspoon cream tartar, add to the well-frothed whites of eight eggs and stir without beating till well mixed. Fill mer- ingue bag and press out in finger shapes or in drops, or bake in lady- finger pan as described or in patty pans. The white fingers are nice for charlotte-russe ; or make a batter of three eggs, one and a half cups sugar, two of flour, half cup water, teaspoon cream tartar and half of soda, bake in fancy-shaped patty pans and ice with chocolate icing, either plain, boiled or caramel ; or cut any kind of plain cake into small squares, cut small piece from center of each square, and fill cavity with some kind of marmalade or jelly, re- place part that was removed, and cover with icing. The small sponge cakes may be iced with white icing and when cold "-marked in gold" l)y dipping a very small bristle brush in the yolk of an egg and writing a word or name upon them. Layer Cakes. In making layer cake batter follow directions given in cake pref- ace, always remembering to sift the flour before measuring. In bak- ing it is important to thoroughly grease the tins — to make it emphatic we will say, thoroughly grease with lard or | American cooking oil, and then grease again (it is not al- ways necessary to line tins for layer cakes witli paper) — I and aftfer using rub ofi" with a coarse towel, taking care that they are perfectly free from all particles of cake, grease and fill again, thus obviating the necessity of washing every time they are filled. A much hotter fire is required for layer than for loaf cakes ; a good test for the oven is to put in a piece of white paper, which should be browned in one minute, when the oven is readv for the cake. If jelly is used to spread between the layers it is a good plan to beat it smoothly and spread it before the cakes are quite cool. In "building," an inverted jelly tin furnishes a perfectly level surface on which to lay and spread the cake, and jeiij Cake Tin. it may be allowed to remain on it until perfectly cold when it should be set away in a cake box in a cool place. In put- ting the layers together many place them bottom side up, because of the smoother surface afforded. In cutting it is better to first make a round hole in the center with a knife or tin tube about an inch and a quarter in diameter, which prevents the edge of the cake from crumbling when cut. In making the custard or "filling" for laver cake, plac^in a custard kettle or tin pail and set in boiling water to cook, thus avoiding all danger of burning. Quart Meaanra. LAYER CAKES. 85 To blanch almonds, pour boiling water over them, let boil amo' ment, drain and throw them into cold water, slip off the skins and pound. To prepare cocoa-nut see cake prefac When dessicated cocoa-nut is used for filling moisten with little milk. The cut of grater given illustrates an inexpe sive article necessary in evei y kitchen, used for grating c coa-nuts, lemons, oranges and other flavoring, cheese, hors radish, etc. The "German" cakes may be baked in jelly tins. bm^. — — ►^ » ^« — ■ — Almond Cake. — Two cups sugar, three-fourths cup butter, one of sweet milk, two of flour, and one of corn starch well mixed, whites of six eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar in the flour, one tea- spoon soda in the milk ; cream the butter and sugar, add milk grad- ually, then the whites of eggs together with the flour, and bake in jelly tins. ' To put between layers, take two pounds almonds, blanch andi pound fine in a mortar (or a cloth will do), beat whites and yolks of two eggs together lightly, add a cup and a half sugar, then the almonds, with one tablespoon vanilla. Almond Cream Cake. — On beaten whites of ten eggs, sift one and a half goblets pulverized sugar, and a goblet flour through which has been stirred a heaping teaspoon cream tartar ; stir very gently and do not beat it ; bake in jelly pans. For cream, take a half pint sweet cream, yolks of three eggs, tablespoon pulverized sugar, teaspoon cornstarch ; dissolve starch smoothly in a little milk, beat yolks and sugar together with this, boil the cream, and stir these ingredients in as for any cream-cake filling, only make a little thicker ; blanch and chop fine a half pound almonds and stir into the cream. Put together like jelly cake while icing is soft, and stick in a half pound almonds split in two. Apple CaJce. — One cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, half cup milk, three teasj)oons baking powder ; bake in jelly tins. For fllling, stir together a grated lemon, a large grated tart apple, an egg, and a cup sugar, and boil four minutes. A very ex- cellent cake. German Apple Cake. — Pare twenty-four good apples and cut each into six equal pieces. Talie some dough made as for German Fruit cake and roll out enough for two layers, cut round, turn up some for margin, place on white paper and paste band of paper around to keep in shape. Put the apples on the dough in rows, set in a quick oven and bake till light brown. While hot sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Banana Cake. — Six eggs, one cup butter, two cups each sugar,, flour and corn starch, one cup sweet milk, three teaspoons baking: 86 LAYER CAKES. powder. Bake in layers, and while warm place sliced bananas be- tween. Ice and eat while-fresh. Enough for two cakes, 'Boston Cream Puff's. — Put half pint milk and two-thirds cup butter over the fire ; when it comes to a boil stir in one and one-half cups sifted flour and continue stirring until smooth and the mixture leaves the sides of the pan. Eemove from the fire and beat thor- oughly into it five eggs, first stirred together lightly to break up and mix the whites and yolks, but do not beat them, before adding to the flour and milk. Drop on cold greased tins, a tablespoon in a place, leaving space between to prevent touching, brush over with the yolk of an egg mixed with a little water, and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake thirty-one minutes in a medium oven (test same as for angel cake), or until all moisture' is thoroughly dried out, lest they may fall. When done they will be hollow. Let them get cold, then make an opening in the side and fill the space with whipped cream or custard. The neatest way to put in the filling is to inject it through the meringue bag, but a spoon may be used. For the whipped cream; ten ounces powdered sugar, a quart of cream ; whip up stiflf and flavor with one tablespoon vanilla, or juice of one orange or grat- ed peel dissolved in a little hot water and strained off". For custard fil- ling, take one pint milk, place one-half in a tin pail and set in boiling water ; reserve from the other half two tablespoons to mix with eggs, and into the rest, whilecold, mix one cup of flour until smooth; when the milkis hot pour in the flour and stir until thicker than boiled cus- tard, then beat well together the two tablespoons milk, two eggs, one cup granulated sugar, a level tablespoon butter, and a teaspoon vanilla or lemon ; add gradually, and continue stirring briskly until so thick that when cold it will drop, not pour, from the spoon. The puffs may be kept on hand. Make the cream or custard fresh, and fill as many as are wanted. Buckeye Cream, Puffs. — Five eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one and a half cups each white sugar and sifted flour, two teaspoons baking powder in the flour ; bake in tea-cups, filling about half full. The cream is prepared by placing' a small tni pail contain- ing a pint sweet milk in a kettle of boiling water ; beat whites and yolks of two eggs separately ; stir in milk while boiling, a half tea- cup sugar, a large tablespoon corn starch dissolved in a little sweet milk, then the beaten yolks and a piece of butter the size of a large walnut; flavor with lemon or vanilla. When done, cut the cakes open, put in a spoonful of the cream, place together again, roll in the whites and then in coarse granulated sugar. Cahe with Maple Frosting. — Three eggs, one cup white sugar, two tablespoons sweet milk, one heaping cup flour with two teaspoons baking powder in it. Filling : One cup maple syrup boiled to wax ; beat white of one egg to stiff" froth, and pour on the syrup, stirring briskly. Very nice. LAYER CAKES. 87 Caramel Cake. — One and a half cups sugar, three-fourths cup butter, half cup milk, two and a fourth cups flour, three eggs, three and a half heaping teaspoons baking powder, or a small teaspoon soda, and two teaspoons cream tartar; bake in jelly tins. Make caramel as follows : Butter size of an egg, pint brown sugar, half cup milk or water, half cake chocolate ; boil twenty minutes (or un- til thick enough) and pour over cakes while warm, piling the layers one upon the other. For frosting for top of cake, take whites of two eggs, one and a half cups sugar, teaspoon vanilla, three heaping tea- spoons grated chocolate. Chocolate Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar,one of milk, five eggs, leaving out whites of, three, four cups sifted flour, two teaspoons baking powder or one small teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar in the flour ; flavor with vanilla and bake in four layers. For filling and icing, take whites of three eggs beaten stifi", one and a half cups powdered sugar, six tablespoons grated chocolate. Or, use one of the recipes for boiled frosting given under " Directions for Icing /' (adding the chocolate) which is considered by many to be much su- perior, especially for chocolate cakes. The boiled frosting without eggs is economical, and the cake may be made with one or two, using a little more flour. Delicious OhocolateCake.—WhiieB of eight eggs, two cups sugar, one of butter, three full oups flour, one of sweet milk, three teaspoons baking powder; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the sugar, and beat until light ; add the milk, then the flour and beaten whites. When well beaten divide into equal parts, and into half grate a cake sweet chocolate. Bake in layers, spread with custard, and alternate the white and dark cakes. For custard for the cake, add a table- spoon butter to one pint milk and let come to a boil ; stir in two eggs beaten with one cup sugar, add two teaspoons corn starch dis- solved in a little milk ; or, leave*the chocolate out of the cake, and use boiled frosting with six tablespoons grated chocolate, instead of the custard, icing the top also with the mixture. Chocolate Filling. — Two ounces chocolate cooked over hot water with one cup water and one ounce sugar. Spread between layers. Oerman Chocolate Cake. — Mix four ounces each fresh butter and fine sugar and yolks of twelve eggs beaten to a froth ; then add eight ounces each powdered almonds and gyated vanilla chocolate ; stir well together, then put in two ounces sifted flour and last the well whipped whites twelve eggs. Cut two pieces of white paper round, Reaving a margin to turn up around the edge. Make the cake equally thick on both pieces of paper, set in a slow oven and bake ; when cold put a layer of preserved cherries on one and lay the other cake on top of it ; trim the edges smooth and ice with chocolate icing^ 88 LAYER CAKES. made by dissolving six ounces sugar in water and adding six ounces chocolate ; stir constantly ; let cook till it will follow the spoon when taken out or a skin has formed upon it. You can trim the cake with white icing in fancy designs and garnish the plate with fruit and white icing. Chocolate Eclairs. — Make paste after recipe for "Boston Cream Puffs," shape into cakes about four inches long and one and one- half wide, placing them on cold greased tins about two inches apart ; bake as puffs. As they come from the oven dip the tops of the eclairs into an icing made by stirring over the fire two squares scraped chocolate with five tablespoons powdered sugar and three of boil- ing water. When cold make an opening in the side and fill with this custard ; Heat to boiling one and one-half cups milk in steam boiler, beat together two-thirds cup sugar, one-fourth cup flour, two eggs, and one-fourth teaspoon salt, and stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook fifteen minutes, stirring often ; when cold flavor with vanilla extract ; if a chocolate flavor is preferred in the cream add one teaspoon dissolved chocolate. Cocoa-nut Cake. — To the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add two cups powdered white sugar, three^fourths cup butter, one of sweet milk, three and a half of flour, one level teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, whites of four eggs well beaten ; bake in four layers. For icing, grate one cocoa-nut,beat whites of two eggs, and add one tea-cup powdered sugar; mix thoroughly with the grated cocoa-nut, and spread evenly on the laj'ers of cake when thej- are cold. Cream Cake. — One cup sugar, yolks of two eggs and white of one, one-half cup sweet milk, one and one-half cups flour, butter size of an egg, three teaspoons baking powder ; bake in layers. Cream for filling : One-half cup sweet milk, or water, three teaspoons powdered sugar, one tablespoon corn starcli. Boil until thick, remove from stove, and when partially cool stir in the whipped white of one egg ; flavor with vanilla and spread between layers. Economical, deli- cious, and easily made. French Cream Cake. — Three eggs, one cup granulated sugar, one and a half cups flour, two tablespoons cold water, teaspoon bak- ing powder. This is enough for two cakes baked in pie-pans, to be split while warm, spreading the hot custard between them, or for four cakes baked in jelly-pans, with the hot custard spread between them, the latter being the preferable plan. For custard, boil nearly one pint sweet milk, mix Jwo tablespoons corn starch with half a teacup sweet milk, add two well-beaten eggs ; when milk has boiled add nearly a cup sugar, and add gradually the corn starch and eggs, stirring briskly ; add a half cup butter, stirring until dissolved, flavor with one teaspoon vanilla, and spread between' cases while hot. This cake can be used as a pudding by pouring over each piece a spoonful of the custard that is left. LAYER CAKES. " 89 Golden Cream Cake. — Cream one cup sugar and one-fourth cup butter, add half cup sweet milk, and the well-beaten whites three eggs, one and a half cups flour, with half a teaspoon soda, and a teaspoon cream tartar sifted with it ; bake in three deep jelly-tins ; beat very- light yolks of two eggs, one cup sugar, and two tablespoons rich sweet cream, flavor with vanilla, and spread on cakes ; or to yolks add one and a half tablespoons corn starch, three-quarters cup sweet milk and small piece butter ; sweeten and flavor to taste, cook in a cus- tard-kettle till thick, let cool, and then spread. Peach Cream Cake. — Bake three sheets of sponge cake as for jelly cake ; cut peaches in thin slices, prepare cream by whipping, sweetening and adding flavor of vanilla if desired, put layers of peaches between the sheets of cake, pour cream over each layer and over the top. This may also be made with ripe strawberries, banana or other fruit. Strawberry Cream Cake. — One cup sugar, two eggs, one-half cup sweet milk, three tablespoons melted butter, one and one-half cups flour, one teaspoon soda, two teaspoons cream tartar ; bake in layers. Cream : Take one-half cup thick sweet cream, beat till stiff, add two tablespoons sugar, have one large cup of berries well sweet- ened, add to creamand spread your cake ; or, rnash a suSicient quan- tity of berries, thicken with confectioner's (fine powdered) sugar and spread between layers. Vienna Cream Cake. — Four eggs, one cup sugar, one cup flour, one tablespoon melted butter, three teaspoons baking powder, one teaspoon lemon ; bake in jelly-tins. Cream : One cup thick sour cream, one cup sugar, one cup hickory-nut or walnut meats rolled fine ; stir all together and put on stove, boil five minutes, spread between the layers ; ice the top ; delicious. Whipped Cream Cake. — Make a white sponge cake, bake half an inch thick in jelly pans and let them get perfectly cold ; take a pint thickest sweet cream, beat until it looks like ice-cream, make very sweet and flavor with vanilla ; blanch and chop a pound al- monds, stir into cream and put very thick between each layer. This is the queen of all cakes. Dominoes — Make cake after recipe given for Lemon Sponge Cake, bake in long pie-tins (two such tins will make twelve dominoes, and K no more are required the rest of the batter maysbe baked in a loaf). The batter in the pie-tins should not be more than one-third of an. inch deep ; spread it evenly and bake in a quick oven. Have a brown paper nearly twice the si^e of the cake on the table, and the moment one of the cakes, comes from the oven turn it upside down in the center of the paper, spread it with a thin layer of currant jelly and lay the other cake on it upside down, cut it with a hot, sharp knife lengthwise, directly through the center, then divide it across in ■90 LAYER CAKES. six equal parts, push them with the knife about an inch apart aidd ice them with ordinary white icing, putting a large dessert-spoonful on every piece ; the heat of the cake will soften it and with a little help the edges and sides will be smoothly covered. All of the icing that runs over on the paper may be carefully taken up and used again. It must then dry, which it will do very quickly. Make a horn of stiff white paper about five inches long, one and a half inches across the top and one-eighth of an inch at the other end ; put in a dessert-spoon of dark chocolate icing, close the horn at the top, and pressing out the icing from the small opening, draw a line of it across the center of every cake, and then make spots like those on ivory dominoes ; keep the horn suppUed with icing. Or use a meringue bag if you have one. Eggless Jelly Oake. — Two cups flour, two teaspoons each cream tartar and soda, evenly mixed with flour ; one cup each sweet milk and sugar, and one large spoon butter or lard. Beat all togethei and bake in a quick oven. An excellent cheap jelly cake. Fif) Cake. — Two cups sugar, one cup each butter and milk, three of flour, two teaspoons baking powder sifted with flour, whites of eight eggs. Bake in layers. Make an icing of whites of two eggs and half pound sugar, and mix with it one pound each figs, blanched al- monds and filberts chopped fine and spread between layers ; or cut half pound figs fine and boil until soft with one cup sugar and half cup water, and use for filling. The cake may be more economically made by using yolks of five eggs and whites of three for layers, re- serving whites of two for icing. Fig Cake. — Silver part : Two cups sugar, two-thirds cup but- ter, not quite two-thirds cup sweet milk, whites of eight eggs, three heaping teaspoons baking powder thoroughly sifted with three cups flour ; stir sugar and butter to a cream, add milk and flour, and last whites of eggs. Gold part : One cup sugar, three-fourths cup butter, half cup sweet milk, one and a half teaspoons baking pow- der sifted in alittlemorethan oneandahalf cups flour, yolks of seven eggs thoroughly beaten, and one whole egg, one teaspoon allspice, and cinnamon until it tastes ; bake the white in two long pie-tins. Put half the gold in a pie-tin, and lay on one pound halved figs (previously sifted over with flour), so that they will just touch each other, put on the rest of the gold and bake. Put the' cakes together with frosting while warm, the gold between the white ones, andcover with frosting. Hard Times Cake. — Half cup butter, two of sugar, one of sour cream, three of flour, three eggs, half teaspoon soda ; bake in layers and spread with jelly. Hickory-Nut Ciistnrd Cake. — Cream one pound sugar and half pound butter ; add five eggs beaten separately, one cup sweet milk, LAYER CAKES. 91 one pound flour, tjiree teaspoons baking powder, flavor with lemon, and bake in jelly-pane. For custard, place one pint milk in a tin pail and set in boiling water ; add a tablespoon corn starch dissolv- ed in a little milk, two eggs, one-half cup sugar, two cups chopped hickory-nut meats, well mixed together, to the boiling milk ; stir, and put between the layers of the cake, while both cake and custard are warm. This is excellent. Ice- Cream Cake. — One-fourth pound each butter and powdered sugar, half pint milk, half pound flour, six eggs, one glass wine, one nutmeg ; bake quickly in iron gem-pans. They rise light with hol- low center. When cold, cut a round hole in top (as you would "plug" a melon), fill with ice-cream just before serving, so that it will not have time to melt. Jelly Roll. — Beat twelve eggs and one pound pulverized sugar together very lightly, then stir in three-fourths pound flour, making batter as light as for sponge cake, and thin enough to spread nicely when poured ; make up as quickly as possible. Have shallow tin pans prepared (about twelve by eigh- teen inches and an inch deep) by lining ^"^^^STrST with thin brown jiaper, using no grease on pan or paper ; pour in batter, spread out with a knife as thin as possible (about half an inch thick), and bake in solid oven. When done, remove from oven, let cool a few minutes, and while still warm, but not hot, turn out of pan upside down. With a brush or soft cloth wet in cold water brush over the paper and pull it off; spread cake thin with jelly and roll it up, being careful to place the outer edge of roll against some- thing so that it will not unroll until cold. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. If baked in pans such as are described above, the recipe will make two rolls, each twelve inches long, which should be cut in two, making four rolls. Use no baking powder as it makes the cake too brittle. Many use none in sponge cake. The paper lining should be larger than pan, to lift out the cake by taking hold of the projecting edges. This never fails. Jelly Roll. — Cream one cup sugar with one tablespoon butter, and add three eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one cup flour and one teaspoon baking powder ; bake carefully in large square pan lined with buttered paper, spread the under side with jelly, and roll while hot, folding in clean towel or paper to keep in place. Eco- nomical and good. For Chocolate Roll use this filling. One cup Eowdered sugar, half cup grated chocolate, one egg, nearly one- alf cup milk or water, boil steadily until thick as jelly ; let it cool before your cake is ready. Lemon Jelly Cake. — Two eggs, one cup sugar, one-third cup butter, one-half cup milk, two cups sifted flour, a heaping teaspoon baking powder ; bake in layers. Jelly : Two-thirds cup water, on^ 92 LAYER CAKES. cup sugar, juice and grated rind one lemon ; let boil and stir in two well-beaten eggs. When cold spread between layers. The top may be iced, but delicious without. ' Lemon Cake. — One and one-half cups sugar, one butter, two and one-half flour, five eggs beaten separately, four teaspoons sweet milk, teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. For jelly : Take cofFee-cup sugar, two tablespoons butter, two eggs and the juice of two lemons ; beat all together and boil until the consistency of jelly. For Orange Cake use oranges instead of lemons. For Pme-apple Cake spread the layers with grated pine-apple sprinkled with sugar ; and a nice ornament of a pine-apple' is described in Charlotte Russe recipe. Lemon Filling. — Grate rind of one lemon and pound well in a mortar with one ounce sugar ; rub into this with the pestle one egg and juice of one lemon and enough "XXX " sugar to make a nice smooth paste. Lady Fingers. — One and one-eighth pound of flour, one of pow- dered sugar, ten eggs ; beat eggs and sugar as light as for sponge cake; sift in with flour one teaspoon baking powder and stir slowly ; use the meringue bag described in confection- ery for shaping the cakes ; press and run the Plate of Laay Tingers. dough out quickly through the tube into a pan lined with light brown paper (not buttered), making each about a finger long and about as thick as a lead pencil, being careful not to get them too wide. Sprinkle with granulated sugar, bake in a quick oven, and when cool wet the under side of the paper with a brush, remove and stick the fingers together Lady Finger pan. back to back. The bag, when made of ticking, will be useful in mak- ing macaroons and other small cakes. Metropolitan Cake. — Two cups sugar, one of butter, one of milk, nearly four cups flour, whites eight eggs, three teaspoons baking powder, flavor -ndth lemon. Take a little more than three-fifths of this mixture in three jelly-tins, add to the remaining batter one ta- blespoon ground allspice, one and a half tablespoons cinnamon, tea- spoon cloves, fourth pound each of sliced citron and chopped raisins ; bake in two jelly-tins and put together with frosting, alternating dark and light, Minnehaha Cake. — One and a half cups granulated sugar, half cup butter stirred to a cream, whites six eggs, or three whole eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar stirred in two heaping cups sifted flour, one teaspoon soda in half cuj) sweet milk ; bake in three layers. For filling, take a cup sugar and a little water boiled together until it is brittle when dropped in cold water, remove from stove and stir LAYER CAKES. 93 quickly into a well beaten white of an egg ; add to this a cup of stoned raisins chopped fine, or a cup of chopped hickory-nut meats, and place between layers and over the top. A universal favorite. Neapolitan CaJce (Yellow, Pink, White and Brown). — ^Yel- low : Two cups powdered sugar creamed with one cup butter, five eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, one-half cup milk, three cups prepared flour, a little nutmeg. Pink and White : One-half pound butter creamed with one pound powdered sugar, whites ten eggs whipped stiff, and one pound prepared flour ; divide this batter into two equal portions, leave one white and color the other with a very little prepared cochineal. Use carefully, as a few drops too much will ruin the color. Brown : One-fourth cup butter creamed with one cup powdered sugar, add three eggs beaten lightly, two tablespoons cream, one heaping cup prepared flour, and. two table- spoons vanilla chocolate grated and rubbed smooth in cream ; bake in layers, the above quantity making three of each color. Half as much will be sufficient for a family cake, but for a large supper or church "sociable" use the whole recipe. Filling — Yellow and Brown : Two cups milk, two tablespoons corn starch wet with milk, two eggs, two cups powdered sugar ; heat the milk to boiling, stir in the sugar and corn starch, cook a few minutes and put in the eggs, boiling until thick. Divide the custard into two parts, and stir into one two tablespoons grated chocolate, and into the other a teaspoon bitter almond. White : Whip into the stiffened whites of three eggs one heaping cup powdered sugar, and the juice and half the grated peel of one lemon. Use a layer of the brown cake as a foundation for the pile spread with yellow custard, then the pink coated with chocolate, then the white and yellow, layers separated with the white frosting, or put together in any order fancied. Very elaborate and nice. Orange Cane. — Beat whites of three and yolks of five eggs sep- arately ; cream two cups sugar and a half cup butter ; add one-half ■cup cold water, two and one-half cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder and the grated rind and juice of one orange (saving one ta- blespoon juice for frosting). Bake in layers and put together with this frosting : Whites of two eggs, two cups sugar and the table- spoon orange juice. Frost top also. Orange Custard Cake. — One and one-half cups sugar, one cup butter, two and one-half cups flour, five well beaten eggs, four tea- spoons sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder. Bake in layers. For filling : Two whole oranges grated with peel of one ; one cup sugar, two tablespoons butter, two eggs ; beat well together and boil until it thickens, stirring to keep it from burning on the bottom. Orange Cake.—I^xo cups sugar, half cup butter, three and a half cups sifted flour, half cup sweet milk, three eggs beaten sepa- rately, three teaspoons baking powder mixed in flour ; bake in jelly- 94 LAYER CAKES. pane. For jelly, take the juice and grated rind of two oranges, two tablespoons cold water, two cups sugar ; set in a pot of boiling water and when scalding hot stir in the yolks of two well beaten eggs, and just before taking from the fire stir in the white of one egg slightly beaten, and when cold put between the layers of cake ; frost the top with the other egg. Ribhon Cake.— ^Two and a half cups sugar, one of butter, one sweet milk, teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, four cups tlour, four eggs ; reserve a third of this mixture and bake the rest in two loaves of the same size ; add to third reserved, one cup each raisins and currants, fourth pound citron, two tablespoons molasses, teaspoon each of all kinds of spice ; bake in a tin the same size as other loaves ; put the three loaves together with a little icing or cur- rant jelly, placing the fruit loaf in the middle ; frost the top and sides. Cream Hose Cake. — Stir into a cup sweet cream with a pinch soda, one cup butter creamed with three cups powdered sugar ; whip with egg beater five minutes, nr until like whipped cream ; flavor with vanilla and add by turns fivecupd prepared flour and the frosted whites of ten eggs. Color a fine pink with cochineal, which is per- fectly harmless and which j-our druggist will prepare for you in either powdered or liquid form. If in the former, moisten before using with a very little water. Strain and stir in drop by drop until you get the right tint. Bake in four layers. For hlling, take one and one-half cocoa-nuts pared and grated, whites four eggs whisked stiff, one and one-half cups powdered sugar, two teaspoons rose water. Heap the cake after it is filled with this mixture, beating in more sugar for the purpose. Very pretty. Snow Cake. — Beat one cup butter to a cream, add one and a half cups flour and stir very thoroughly together ; then add one cup corn starch and one cup sweet milk in which three teaspoons baking powder have been dissolved ; last, add whites eight eggs and two cups sugar well beaten together ; flavor to taste, bake in sheets and put together with icing. For Coroa-n ut Cream Cake use this filling : Whip one cup cream, one-half cup sugar, one cup cocoa-nut ; spread between layers and on top ; flavor to taste. Cream Sponge Cake. — Cream yolks often eggs with one pound sugar, add the whipped whites, sift in six ounces flour and flavor with one .teaspoon almond extract. Have readj- this filling: Mix four eggs, four ounces sugar, two ounces flour, and stir smoothly into one quart milk. Cook until thick, stirring well ; take from the stove, add one teaspoon extract nectarine, and let euol before spread- ing the cake, which must be baked in layers twenty to thirty min- utes, covered with a paper to prevent srorching. Thanksgiving Cake. — Make batter ;is for cocoa-nut cake (page 72). Bake four layers in jelly-tins ; make fro.^ting of whites of three LAYER CAKES. 95 eggs, three teaspoons baking powder and three-fourths pound pul- verized sugar; with frosting for first layer mix rolled hickory-nut meats, with that for second lay- er mix fine-sliced figs, for third with blanched al- '** monds chopped, and on the top spread the plain ^'^y O"""- frosting, and grate cocoa-nut over thickly. Vanity Cake. — One and a half cups sugar, half cup butter, half •cup sweet milk, one and a half cups flour, half cup corn starch, tea- spoon baking powder, whites six eggs ; bake in four cakes, putting frosting between and on top. Velvet Cake. — Two cups sugar, six eggs, leaving out the whites of three, one cup boiling hot water, two and one-half cups flour, one tablespoon baking powder in flour ; beat the yolks a little, add the sugar, and beat fifteen minutes ; add the three beaten whites, and the cup of boiling water just before the flour ; flavor with a teaspoon lemon extract and bake in three layers, putting between them icing made by adding to the three whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth,, six dessert-spoons of pulverized sugar to each egg, and lemon to flavor. White Fruit Cake. — To one cup butter beaten to a cream, add two of sugar, three of flour in which two teaspoons baking powder have been sifted, and the stiffly beaten whites of six eggs. Bake in jelly-cake tins ; when done (while still hot) put between the layers this filling : Chop fine a quarter pound each of figs, seeded raisins, citron, preserved ginger and blanched almonds, and stir them into "whites three eggs beaten stiff, a cup powdered sugar, and the juice of one lemon ; frost the whole quickly. A most delicious cake. White Mountain Cake.- — Two cups pulverized sugar, half cup butter beaten to a cream ; add half cup sweet milk, two and a half cups flour, two and a half teaspoons baking powder in the flour' whites eight eggs ; bake in jelly-tins and put together with icing made by boiling a half cup water and three cups sugar till thick ; pour it slowly over the well-beaten whites three eggs, and beat all together till cool. Beat before putting on each layer ; or use plain icing. Sprinkle each layer thickly with grated cocoa-nut, also sides and top, using two cocoa-nuts, and a handsome Cocoa-nut Cake will result. 96 COOKIES AND JUMBLES. Xenophon Cake. — One cup sugar, half each of butter and milk, whites of four eggs, scant two cups flour, flavor with vanilla; two teaspoons baking powder. Stir flour in last very lightly. Bake in layers and when cold spread with this filling ; scant pound shelled almonds, blanched and pounded in a mortar (or a bowl may be used with the potato-masher), half cup thick sour cream, juice of half a lemon, make very sweet. Mix and let stand in cold place one hour before using. Delicious but must be eaten the day it is made. Cookies and Jumbles. Cookie Cutu^d. Sift before measuring all flour used in mixing and rolling, and bake in a quick oven. A nice " finishing touch " can be given by sprinkling them with granulated sugar or seeds, and rolling over lightly with the rolling pin, then cutting out and press- ing a whole raisin in the center of each ; or, when done a very light brown, brush over while still hot with a small bristle brush called a pastry brush, and kept for such purposes, or a soft bit of rag dipped in a thick syrup of sugar and water, or the roll glaze made of yolk of one egg, its bulk in water and quarter teaspoon sugar ; sprinkle with currants, cocoa-nut, or any seed preferred, and return to the oven a moment. Seed cookies may be made by adding one Combination Cake Board. tableSpOOU CaraWUy seeds to any of the following recipes. Flour should never he u.^ed for any purpose without sifting, so it is well to always have a large covered can or bucket full of sifted flour in the pantry. Bacheior''s Buttons. — Mix two ounces butter, three of susar, five of flour ; to this add two ounces sugar mixed with one egg ; ifavor to taste. Roll in hand to size of a large nut, then roll in sugar, place on tins with buttered paper and bake lightly. Chocolate Cookies. — Three-fourths cake chocolate, two cuns white sugar, one of butter, one-half cup cold water, two eggs one teas|)Oon soda, flour to roll. To finish nicely ice the tops. ' COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 97 Cream, Cookies. — One cup each sour cream and sugar, one egg, one level teaspoon soda, nutmeg ; mix as soft as can be handled, roll thin and bake quickly. Eggless Cookies. — Two cups sugar, one each milk and butter, half teaspoon each nutmeg and soda, flour to roll. Fruit Cookies. — Two cups sugar, half cup butter, cup sour cream, (or sour milk may be used with more butter), two cups chopped raisins, two eggs, two tablespoons cinnamon, one teaspoon each nutmeg, cloves, and soda. Bake same as other cookies. Graham Cookies. — Shave two cups maple sugar, and stir with one of butter, one egg, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda ; mix with graham flour ; use white flour' on molding board. Brown or white sugar may be used instead of maple. Good Cookies. — Two cups sugar, one each butter and sour cream or milk, three eggs, one teaspoon soda ; mix soft, roll thin, sift gran- ulated sugar over them, and gently roll it in. Hickory-Nut Cookies. — Two cups sugar, two eggs, half cup melted butter, six tablespoons milk, one teaspoon cream tartar, hall teaspoon soda, flour to roll and one cup chopped meats stirred in the dough. Nutmeg Cookies. — Two cups white sugar, three-fourths cup butter, two-thirds cup sour milk, nutmeg or caraway seed for flavor, two eggs, half teaspoon soda, and six cups flour, or enough to roll. Roll thin, and bake in quick oven. North German Christmas Cookies. — Six pounds flour, two each of sugar, butter, and molasses, one teaspoon saleratus dissolved in rose water, arrack, or spirits, a few cloves and cinna- mon pounded together, one pound raisins pounded in a mortar, half pound citron chopped fine. Warm mo- lasses, sugar and butter slightly, and gradually stir in the flour ; knead well and roll out, and cut in various ' coone cutter,. shapes. One-half the dough may be flavored with anise or carda- mon, omitting the raisins. This recipe will make a large quantity, and they are pretty to hang upon the tree during Christmas week, and to pass in baskets to holiday callers. This is the bona iide Christmas cookie. 'Seed Cookies. — Cream one-half pound butter with three-fourths pound sugar, and sift in one and one-half pounds flour, adding one well-beaten egg, a half gill rose water, and a pinch soda dissolved in tablespoon warm water, knead well, roll into a sheet, cut with cutter having scalloped edge, and bake in buttered pan fifteen minutes. Use fennel, coriander, caraway, or cardamon seeds, or any mixture of them preferred. 7 98 COOKIES AND JUMBLES. Scotch Cookies. — Half cup molasses, one and a half of sugar, one and a quarter of butter ( or half butter and half lard ) , two eggs, tea- spoon each soda, cloves and allspice, two of cinnamon, and flour to roll ; roll thin, cut and bake ; or a richer recipe is two and a half Eounds sugar, one and a fourth of butter, three of flour, five eggs, alf pint molasses and* one ounce soda mixed with it ; roll very thin, cut with cake cutter, place in pan, giving each cake plenty of room, and put in oven ; when half done brush over top with glaze made with yolk of an egg, as much water as there is egg, and quarter of teaspoon sugar j return to oven and bake. Whortleberry Soft Cookies. — One cup sugar, one and. a half of milk, with half teaspoon soda dissolved in it, tablespoon butter, one quart berries, teaspoon cream tartar, and flour to make a stiff' batter ; bake in small cake tins. Crescents. — Rub eight ounces each rice flour and sugar togeth- er, and add eight eggs mixed to a cream after the yolks and whites have been beaten separately ; stir all together smoothly, spread thin- ly on buttered fiaper, and bake twenty minutes ; then cut with a crescent cutter into cakes, ice each one, and set in the oven for a minute to dry. Vary the icing if liked by coloring portions with cochineal and saffron, icing some of the crescents pink, some yellow and the effect is very pretty. Jew Cakes. — Three-fourths pound each butter and sugar, one pound flour, two eggs, two teaspoons baking powder ; roll thin, cut out, wash over top with an egg beaten in half cup cream, sprinkle with pound finely chopped almonds mixed with pound fine granu- lated sugar, and bake in quick oyen. Jmnbles. — One and a half cups white sugar, three-fourths cup butter, three eggs, three tablespoons sweet milk, half teaspoon soda and one of cream tartar ; mix with sufficient flour to roll ; roll and sprinkle with sugar ; cut out and bake. Cocoa-nut Jumbles.— Two cups sugar, one cup butter, two eggs, half a grated cocoa-nut ; make just stiff enough to roll out ; roll thin. Lemon' Jumbles. — One egg, one cup sugar, half cup butter, three teaspoons milk, one teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, two small lemons, juice of both and grated rind of one ; mix rather stiff, roll, and cut with cake cutter. Lemon Sncips-.—k large cup sugar, two-thirds cup butter, half teaspoon soda dissolved in two teaspoons hot water, flour enough to roll thin ; flavor with lemon, Pepper-nuts.— One ^om-iA sugar, five eggs, half pound butter, halt cup milk, two teaspoons baking powder, flour enough to roll. Warranted Scotch " Short Bread."— Wsish. all particles of salt CEULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 99 from one pound best butter and cream with scant one-half pound sugar. Dry and slightly warm two pounds flour and mix gradually with the hand with the butter and sugar. The longer it is kneaded the better it will be. Lay on molding-board and press with the hand into sheets half an inch thick. Do not roll, as rolling toughens it. Cut into any desired shapes, prick or stamp a pattern on top, and bake in moderate oven until a fine yellow brown. Springerhes. — One pound sugar, lour eggs beaten light and thick, add pound flour into which teaspoon baking powder has been sifted and roll into little balls, press with a small glass plate or salt cellar, let stand until morning and bake in quick oven. Or, roll and cut out with any of the cookie cutters illustrated ; let rise and bake as above. Sand Tarts. — Two cups sugar, one of butter, three of flour, two eggs, leaving out the white of one ; roll out thin and cut in square cakes with a knife ; spread the white of egg on top, sprinkle with cinna- mon and sugar, and press a blanched almond or raisin in the center, or cut and ornament with stamps similar to those in cut Cookie Stamps. Crullers and Donglinuts. To cook these properly the fat should be of the right heat. When hot enough it will cease to bubble and be perfectly still, and a blue smoke will arise ; try with a bit of the batter and if the heat is right the dough will rise in a few seconds to the top and occasion a bubbling in the fat, the cake will swell and the under side quickly become brown. Clarified drippings of roast meat or the American Cooking Oil just introduced, and made of refined Cotton Seed Oil, are more wholesome to fry them in than lard. A good suet maj' be prepared as follows for those who are sensible enough not to like greasy dough- nuts, or who Hebraically oppose lard. Use only beef suet, which is quite as cheap, cleanly and healthy. Buy from the meat markets, speaking before-hand and securing nice, whole, clean leaves, which cut up in small pieces, put into a dinner-pot, which will hold well about ten pounds. Put in a pint of water, and after the first hour stir frequently ; it takes about three hours with a good heat to render it. Drain through a coarse towel, and if the suet is good it will require but little squeezing and leave but little scrap or cracklings. Cool in 100 CEULLEES AND DOUGHNUTS. pans or jars, then cover and put in a cool place, and you have an ele- ment into which, when well heated, you can drop the twisted goodies with the- assurance that they will not only be " done brown," but that they will emerge with a flavor and grain that will commend them to the favor of an epicure. Doughnuts thus cooked are more digestible and of better flavor than if cooked in lard, and the most Doughnut TwisM, fastldlous wlU not need to peel them before eating. Make the dough as soft as it can ie handled, always sifting the flour ; if cut about half an inch" thick, five to eight minutes will be time enough to cook, but it is better to break one open as a test. When done drain well in a skimmer and place in a colander or on brown paper, which absorbs the fat. If to be sifted over with sugar, use powdered sugar, and sprinkle over them v/hile hot. The use of eggs prevents the dough from absorbing the fat. Doughnuts should be watched closely while frying, and the fire must be regvilated very carefully. When j^ou have finished frying, cut a potato in slices and put in the fat to clarify it, place the kettle away until the fat " settles," strain into an earthen pot kept for this purpose, and set in a cool place. The sediment remaining in the bottom of the kettle may be used for soap-grease. Fry in an iron kettle, the common skillet being too shallow for the purpose. Do not eat doughnuts be- tween April and November. Crullers are better the daj' after they are made. If lard is not fresh and sweet, slice a raw potato, and fry before putting in the cakes. Crullers.— One egg, one tablespoon melted butter, three table- spoons sugar, make very stiff with flour, roll rather thin ; they will fry very quickly ; take them from the fat well drained and dip them in sugar. Crullers. — Six tablespoons each melted butter and sugar, six eggs and flour to roll. Crullers. — One pound butter, one and one-half pounds powder- ed sugar, twelve eggs, one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon each nutmeg and mace, flour to make stiff" dough. R.oll to a half inch in thickness ; cut out and fry. Crullers. — Two coff'ee-cups sugar, one of sweet milk, throe eggs, a heaping tablespoon butter, three teaspoons baking powder mixed with six cups flour, half a nutmeg, and a level teaspoon cinnamon. Beat eggs, sugar and butter together, add milk, spices, and flour ; put another cup flour on molding board, turn the dough out on it, CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 101 and knead until stifif enough to roll out to a quarter inch thick ; cut in squares, make three or four long incesions in each square, lift by taking alternate strips between the finger and thumb, drop into hot lard, and cook like doughnuts, or they may be shaped as in Figure 1, or given the much more elaborate shape of Figure 3. To give them the shape of Fig. 3, first cut the paste, as in Fig. 2 ; hold the first line with thumb and finger of the left hand, then with the right hand slip the second line under the first, then the third under the second, and so on until they are all slipped under ; pinch the two ends together, and the cruller will be in form of Fig. 3. Doughnuts. — One cup each sugar and milk, butter size of an egg, one large teaspoon ,baking powder, nutmeg or other spice to taste ; knead and roll out soft as possible. An egg is often added. Cream Doughnuts. — Beat one clip ea^ sour cream (or sour milk with tablespoon bfttter)/cuj) sugar and two eggs together, add level teaspoon soda, a little salt, spices if wished, and flour enough to roll and cut out easily. When partly cool roll in white sugar. Dougnnut cutter. Corn Meal Doughnuts. — A tea-cup and a half boiling milk poured over two tea-cups meal; when cool add two cups flour, one of butter, one and one-half of sugar, three eggs, flavor with nutmeg or cinnamon ; let rise till very light ; roll about half an inch thick, ■cut in diamond shape, and boil in hot lard. French Doughmits. — One cup butter, three of white«sugar, one pint sweet milk, four eggs, teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar and juice of one lemon. Raised Doughnuts. — Peel and boil four good sized potatoes ; mash fine and pour boiling water over them until consistency oi gruel ; let cool, add a yeast cake and a little flour, let rise till light, then add one pint sweet milk, one and a half cups sugar, one-fourth cup (large measure) lard, a salt-spoon salt, a little nutmeg and cin- nam(>n, stir in flour until stiff, let rise again, then add a half tea- spoon soda dissolved in a little milk, pour out on molding board, mix stiff enough to cut out, and roll to half an inch thie^pess ; cut in long strips twp inches wide and divide diagonally into ^eces three inches long, set where it is warm, let rise on the board until light, andithen fry. These do not cook through as easily as others, audit is safer to drop in one, and, by breaking it open, learn the time re- quired for them to fry. A very nice variation of this recipe may be made as follows : EoU part of the dough about half an inch thick, 102 GINGER-BKBAD. cut into small biscuits, let rise, and when light roll down a little, lay a few raisins rolled in cinnamon in the center, wet the edges by dip- ping the finger in cold water and passing it over them ; draw them together and press Urmly, and drop them in the hot fat. A teaspoon apple-butter or any kind of jam may be used instead of the raisins. When made with the raisins, they are the real German "Oily Koeks." Berlin Pancakes. — Roll out dough slightly sweetened and shortened, as if for very plain doughnuts ; cut in circles like biscuit, put a teaspoon currant jam or jelly on the center of one, lay another upon it, press the edges tightly together with the fingers and fry quickly in boiling fat. They will be perfect globes when done, a little smaller than an orange. Trifles. — A quart flour, a cup sugar, two tablespoons melted butter, a little salt, two teaspoons baking powder, one egg, and sweet milk sufficient to make rather stiff; roll out in thin sheets, cut in pieces about two by four inches ; make as.many cuts across the short way as possible, inserting the knife near one edge and ending the cut just before reaching the other. Pass two knitting-needles under every other strip, spread the needles as far apart as possible, and with them hold the trifles in the fat until a light brown. Only one can be fried at a time. Andover Wonders. — Boil together one cup water, tablespoon powdered sugar, half teaspoon salt and two ounces butter, and while boiling add suflicient flour to make it leave sides of pan ; stir in one by one the yolks four eggs ; drop into hot lard from a teaspoon and fry light brown. Gringer - Bread. Use sifted flour for mixing and rolling ginger-bread (^fting be- fore measuring), and if the dough becomes too stiflT before it is rolled out set it before the fire. Snaps will not be crisp if made on a rainy day. Ginger-bread and cakes require a moderate oven, snaps a quick one. If cookies or snaps become moist in keeping, put them in the ov.pn and heat them for a few moments. Always use New Orleans or Porto Rico molasses, and never syrups. Soda is used to act on the " spirit " of the molasses. In making the old-fashioned, soft, square cakes of ginger-bread, put a portion of the dough on a well floured tin sheet, roll evenly to each side, trim ofi' evenly around the edges, and mark off" in squares with a floured knife or wheel cut- GINGER-BREAD. 103 ter. In this way the dough may be softer than where it is necessary to pick up to remove from board after rolling and cutting. Always have the board well covered with sifted flour before rolling all kinds of soft ginger-breads, as they are liable to stick, and should always be mixed as soft as they can be handled. Ginger-hread. — One gallon molasses or strained honey, one and a quarter pounds butter, quarter pound soda stirred in a half cup sweet milk, teaspoon alum dissolved in just enough water to cover it, flour to make it stiff enough to roll out ; put the molasses in a very large dish, add the melted butter and soda, then all the other ingredients ; -mix in the evening and set in a warm place to rise over- night ; in the morning knead it a long time like bread, roll into squares half an inch thick, and bake in bread-pans in an oven heated about right for bread. To make it glossy, rub over the top just be- fore putting it into the oven the following : One well beaten egg, the same amount or a little more sweet cream, stirring egg and cream well together. This ginger-bread will keep an unlimited time. The recipe is complete without ginger, but two tablespoons may be used if preferred. Over Hfty years old^ and formerly used for general muster days Oinger-bread. — One cup each sugar and molasses, one-half cup butter, two eggs, one tablespoon «ach saleratus and ginger, one tea- spoon allspice, one cup boiling water, four cups flour. Alum Ginger-lread. — Pint molasses, cup melted lard, table- spoon each ginger and salt, cup boiling Avater ; in half the water dis- solve tablespoon pulverized alum, and in the other half a heaping tablespoon soda ; stir in just flour enough to knead ; roll about half an inch thick, cut in oblong cards, and bake in a tolerably quick oven. Fairy Ginger-hread. — Cream one cup butter with two of sugar, add tablespoon ginger, three-fourths teaspoon soda in cup milk, and four cups flour ; butter baking pans, spread cake mixture thin as a wafer 01/ them, and bake in moderate oven till brown. The moment it comes from the oven cut into squares with case-knife and slip from pan. Delicious. Keep in tin box. Loaf Ginger-hread.— HqsA, together for ten minutes one cup each butter, molasses, and sugar with a tablespoon , _j || l | iHW I I8^^WM il each ginger and cinnamon, then add a half .^M iliilll!| |ii|ii|||||||'|^ cup cold water, tablespoon soda dissolved in '^^^^ ^--- Ui ^^ py boihng water, and flour to stir very hard. "'"" eiagerbread L^r. Bake in loaves ; brush them over with syrup while hot, and eat fresh. Soft Ginger-hread. — One and a half cups Orleans molasses, half cup each brown sugar, butter and sweet milk, teaspoon each soda 104 • ■ GINGEE-BEBAD. and allspice, half teaspoon ginger ; mix all together thoroughly, add three cups sifted flour and bake in shallow pans. Excellent. Spiced Qinger-bread. — One cup each sugar, butter, and molasses, three eggs, three cups flour, one teaspoon soda dissolved in a cup sour cream, half a nutmeg, teaspoon cloves, tablespoon ginger. Ex- tra good. Sponge Ginger-lrread. — One cup each sour milk and Orleans mo- lasses, a half cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon soda, tablespoon ginger, flour to make as thick as pound cake ; put butter, molasses and gin- ger together, make them quite warm, add the milk, flour, eggs, and soda, and bake as soon as possible. White Oinger-bread. — Rub a half pound each butter and flour together, add half pound finely powdered and sifted loaf sugar, the finely minced rind of one lemon, an ounce ground ginger, and a grated nutmeg ; mix well together, and work into a smooth paste with one gill milk just warm, in which a half teaspoon carbonate of soda has been dissolved ; make into cakes and bake in moderate oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Ginger Cakes. — One quart Orleans molasses, pint . lard or butter, pint buttermilk, two tablespoons each soda and ginger, three quarts sifted flour, making a stiS" batter ; pour the molasses and milk boiling hot into a large tin bread-pan in which have been placed the ' ginger and soda (the pan must be large enough to prevent running over) ; stir in the flour, after which stir in the lard or butter; when cold, (better let stand overnight) mold with flour and cut in cakes, either with biscuit or cookie cutter. Care must be taken to follow these directions implicitly or the cakes will not be good ; remember to add the lard or hutter last, and buttermilk, not sour milk, must be used ; boil the molasses in a skillet, and after pouring it into the pan, put the buttermilk in the same skillet, boil and pour it over the molasses, ginger and soda. This excellent recipe was kept as a secret for a long time by a professional baker. Ginger Cookies. — Two cups molasses, one each lard and sugar, two-thirds cup sour milk, tablespoon ginger, three teaspoons soda stirred in the flour and one in the milk, two eggs. Ginger Cookies. — One egg, one cup each sugar and molasses, one tablespoon each soda, vinegar and ginger ; roll thin and bake quickly. Best Ginger Drops. — Half cup sugar, cup molosses, < half cup butter, one teaspoon each cinnamon, ginger and cloves, two teaspoons soda in a cup boiling water, tAvo and , a half cups flour ; add two well-l)eaten eggs the last thing ' — before baking. Baked in gem-tins or as a'oommon finger- ""Drops!"*" bread, and eaten warm with a sauce, thoy make" a iiice dessert. GINGER-BREAD. 105 Oinger Drop Cakes. — Take three eggs, one cup each lard, baking molasses and brown sugar, one large tablespoon ginger, one tablespoon soda dissolved in a cup of boiling water, five cups un- sifted flour ; drop tablespoons of this mixture into a slightly greased dripping-pan about three inches apart. Oinger Snaps.- — Boil together one cup each molasses, butter and sugar. Add two teaspoons each soda and cinnamon, one each cloves and ginger, flour enough to roll out smoothly. Roll thin and bake quickly. Oinger Snaps. — One pound and six ounces flour, four of sugar, eight of butter, sixof preserved orange peel, half pint molasses, one tea- spoon soda dissolved in two tablespoons boiling water, one teaspoon cloves, two of ginger ; soften the butter and mix it with the sugar and molasses, add the spices, orange peel and soda, beat well and stir in the flour, flour the board and roll the paste as thin as possible, cut in circles and bake in a very quick oven. This quantity makes one hundred and twenty-nine snaps, about three inches across. Hotel Oinger Snaps. — One gallon molasses, two pounds brown sugar, one quart melted butter, half Qup each ground cloves, mace, cinnamon and ginger, one cup soda. Plain Oinger Snaps.— Tv/o cups molasses, one of lard, table- spoon each soda and ginger, and flour to roll, being careful not to make it too stiff. Tablespoon grated orange peel is a nice addition. Cut with small cutter. Some add teaspoon black pepper. Oinger Tea-caJces.—M.hi two cups each powdered sugar and warmed butter, add three well-beaten yolks, a cup molasses, four heaping cups flour, tablespoon each ginger and soda. Bake in patty pans in a moderate oven. 106 OEEAMS AND CUSTAEDS. CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. For creams and custards eggs should never be beaten in tin^but always in stone or earthen ware, as there is some chemical influence about tin which prevents their attaining that creamy lightness so desirable. Beat quickly and sharply right through the eggs, beating whites and yolks separately. When gelatine is used for creams it is better to soak it for an hour or two in a little cold water or milk, set in a warm place ; (it is convenient to place in a bowl set in the top of the boiling tea-kettle to dissolve) ; when dissolved, pour into the hot custard just after removing from the stove. For custards the common rule is four eggs, one cup sugar, one salt-spoon salt to each quart milk. Custards, like cakes, are nicer if yolks and whites are beaten separately and whites added last. Bake in baking dish, or cup set in pan of hot water until firm in center, taking care that heat is moderate or the custard will turn in part to whey. The delicacy of the custard depends on its being baked slowly. It is much nicer to strain the yolks, after they are beaten, through a small wire strain- er. For boiled custards or floats the yolks alone may be used, which makes the custard much finer, or for economy's sake the entire eggs. For a more ele- gant custard whip whites of eggs and ^^"^ wi™ strainer. place over the top when hot. Always place milk to boil in a custard kettle (made of iron with another iron kettle inside, the latter lined CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 107 with tin), or in a pan or pail set in a kettle of hoihng water ; when the milk reaches the boiling point, which is shown by a slight foara rising on top, add the sugar which cools it so that the eggs will not curdle when added; or, another convenient way is to mix the beaten and strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then add gradually several spoons of the boiling Custard Ke«.e. ' ^-jj^^ ^^^^-^ ^j^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ hcat^d through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. Let remain a few moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail imme- diately in cold water or turn into a cold dish, as it curdles if allowed to remain in a hot basin ; add flavoring extracts after removing from the stove. Peach leaves, vanilla beans, or laurel leaves give a fine flavor, but must be boiled in the milk and taken out before other ingredients are added. The only spices used in flavoring custards are nutmeg and cinnamon. Lemon is liked by many but the white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way is to rub the rind off with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar thug saturated with the oil of the lemon is called " zest," and is used, pounded fine, for creams, etc. Boiled custards are very diffi- cult to make, and must have closest attention until finished. Cus- tards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar, and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling. In making Gharlotte-russe it is not necessary to add gelatine. The filling may be made of well-whipped cream, flavored and sweet- ened, using a "whip-churn" or the "Dover Egg-beater" to do the whipping. When other ingredients are to be combined with the whipped cream for filling, leave the cream on ice until all are ready, then turn cream into the mixture, whip through gently, let stand a few minutes and whip again, keeping it on ice till it seems to be thickening, when it should be turned into a plain mold previously lined with cake, which should also be kept on ice until ready to serve. Any deep pan will ■do, which should not be wet or greased but lined with clean manilla paper. If sponge cake is used cut in sheets to fit bottom and sides 108 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. smoothly. When lady-fingers are used the ingenuity of the cook may be brought into play in their arrangement, placing them diago- nally around the sides, forihing a star or rosette in the bottom, cut- ting into desired shapes to carry out any design. A large charlotte-russe could easily be given the form of a fort by molding in deep conical shaped pan, leaving holes at intervals in the sides of the cake lining, and after turning out inserting there- in lady-fingers to represent cannon, ornamenting top with darts or arrows of isinglass with bits of jelly on the points. A full slice of pine-apple divided into eighths and the rind turned in the center, leaving the points to turn out in the form of a star, filling the center with whipped cream, makes a handsome finish for the top of char- lotte-russe or a pine-apple cake. Icing the sides is also an improve- ment ; in short, ornament in any manner as fancy may dictate, with candied fruits, nuts, etc., which may be made to adhere to the cake by first dipping in syrup (sugar boiled to crackling). To make the ^- y , I^S cake lining retain its place firmly, brush edges "i^^J^I -fpherever cake or lady-fingers join with a very PaBtry Bnisb. ./ o J ^ J little of this hot syrup or with the white of an egg, or a little gum arable dissolved in water, putting on so little that none adheres to the mold. The whole interior is sometimes brushed over with white of egg to make the cake firmer. If any sheet of cake is left, put upside down on board and spread over it a wet towel and it will keep perfectly. If eggs are used in the cream whip them first. If preferred, the charlotte-russe may be made into small molds, one for each person. Great care must be used in turning out, or the cream may burst the cake. Holding the mold in the left hand, place the plate or dish on which ■ it is to be served over it with the right hand, and slowly and gently invert it. If desired, a piece of the cake may be shaped for a cover to the mold, which when served be- comes the foundation. A much simpler and very nice way of preparing a case for charlotte-russe, is to bake a sponge cake in a fancy mold and when cold turn out and ■with a sharp knife carefully cut oif the top, laying it fb one side for the cover ; replace cake in mold and remove the inside CboTlotw BusBe. carefully, leaving; CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 10& the cake at least an inch thick and as smooth as possible ; then fill with the prepared cream, put on the cover and serve inverted, as above on plate; or simply scoop out the insid© and after filling and turning from the mold turn it on another plate, leaving the cake right side up, and heap whipped cream upon the open top as illustrated. Cream intended for whipping should first be chilled on ice, and may be sweetened or flavored to taste either before or after whip- ping. Have a deep tin pan half filled with snow or pounded ice, and into this set another pan that will hold two or three times the quan- tity of cream before it is whipped ; place the cream in a bowl, set on ice, and with a whip churn (or an egg beater if 'you have not a churn) whip to a froth, and when the bowl is full let stand a moment until the air bubbles break, then skim the froth inta the pan standing on the ice, and repeat this until the cream is all froth ; then with the spoon draw the froth to one side, and it will be found that some of the cream has gone back to milk ; turn this into the bowl again and whip as before ; or use a sieve as the receptacle for the whipped cream, placing it over a bowl to catch the drippings, which are re- whipped. The whip churn shown in the cut can be procured of almost any dealer or may be ordered from the tinner. It is operated by placing the handle inside the tube and inserting • the perforated end of the tube (slightly tipped) into the bowl of cream. By drawing up the handle and ©"{y- fD forcing it down again the cream is forced in and Whip cimrn. q^^ of thc holcs lu thc tube and soon becomes a light froth, which is taken off as directed above. In cold weather it is not considered necessary by some to thus skim the froth, simply whipping rapidly until the whole stiffens Be careful not to whip too long or particles of butter will form. When cream is difiicult to whip, add to and whip with it the white of an egg. After the cream is whipped, work the froth with an egg whisk which makes it finer grained. If perfectly sweet use double cream for whipping. If too thick a little milk may be added. Single cream is cream that has stood on the milk twelve hours, and is best for tea or coffee ; double cream has stood twenty-four hours, and cream for butter often stands forty-eight hourt^ , In put- ting together ifligredients for custards always rinse out the bowl in. 110 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Custard 9'j-ainer. which yolks were beaten with a part of the milk used, so that none of the yolks will be wasted. When creams or custards through lack of proper attention have been cooked too long and become curdled, beating thoroughly with an egg beater will remove the unpleasant effect. The measurement of cream in the following recipes is given before it is whipped. The Bavarian cream recipes will make three or four times the quantity of unwhipped cream called for, and are therefore comparatively inexpensive for so elegant a dessert. Molds should always be wet in cold water for creams, russes, blanc-manges, etc., that are placed in them to stand until cold. If they do not turn f * ^^^^^^^^^^^^ S;:^i&^ ^ " ^'i^^ oi^t easily, dip for an ^s»^ __^ r_^ instant into warm water. Before turning into molds some prefer to strain all blanc-manges, and cool six hours before serving, or are even better made the day before wanted. Should custards cook up lumpy they should be strained, and many strain them before cooking, after putting all ingredients together. Gelatine is usually put up in two-ounce packages, so that where recipes call for half package, one ounce should be used. In choos- ing gelatine or isinglass select that which is whitest, has no un- pleasant odor, and which dissolves most readily in water. To test its purity drop a few threads of the substance into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the first it will dissolve, in the second become white and cloudy, and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. But if adulterated it will not so completely di'ssolve in hot water, in cold water it will become jelly- like, and in vinegar will harden. In preparing small fruits with seeds for creams, etc., mash through a iin& woven-wire sieve, called a puree sieve — the ordinary flour poreesieve. slcvc being too coarse. A very useful kitchen utensil is the little steamer de- TeaketueSKmer. signed to set over top of teakettle, in which creams and custards that need to be cooked over hot water may be very easily prepared iaving space of one Utensil. Macaroon Basket.-^k pretty and unique way of serving maca- CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Ill 'Macaroon Basket. roons with cream is as follows : Dissolve a tablespoon gum arable in half cup hoiling water thoroughly ; then stir in one large cup white sugar. Boil gently until very thick. Set it while using in a pan of boiling water to keep hot. Take a round tin pail, butter thickly on bottom and sides, . dip the edges only of each macaroon in the hot candy and lay them in close rows on the bottom until it is covered. Let them get perfectly dry, and be sure they adhere firmly to one an- other before beginning the lower row of ( the sides. Build up the wall one row at a time, letting each harden before adding another. When the basket is done and firm, lift carefully from the mold, make a loop-handle at each end with four or five macaroons stuck together, set on a flat dish and heap with whipped cream. Sprinkle comfits over cream or ornament with bits of red jelly. Lady- fingers, brushing edges with white of egg, may be thus utilized. Another pretty dish is made by slicing oranges nicely, and placing on skewers dip them into the hot candy, and line bottom and sides of pail or mold (which must first bebuttered) in same way. Leave until hard and cemented together, fill with whipped cream and you have an Orange BasTcet. Orange Baskets. — Remove the fruit from the interior of oranges carefully by making a small incision on one side of the fruit, then cut the skin into the shape of a basket^ leaving about half an inch of the stalk ends for handles. Till the baskets with any cream,, ices, ice cream, whipped cream, jellies, etc., and they make a very pretty ornament for the table. The juice and pulp removed can be made into jelly or custard, or sent to table sweetened with sugar. Blanc-Mange. — Dissolve three heaping tablespoons each corn starch and sugar in one pint milk ; add to this three eggs well beaten, and pour the mixture into one pint boiling milk, stirring constantly until it boils again ; after taking from the stove flavor to taste and pour into cups or small moulds ; when cool take out and place on dish as illustrated, or with a mold- of jelly in center. Serve a spoon of jelly and a sauce of sweetened cream with each mold, or omit jelly entirely and serve with sweetened cream or whipped cream ; or, put one quart milk (reserving three tablespoons with which mix three heaping tablespoons corn-starch) with a pinch salt and five tablespoons sugar. When milk is hot, pour in the mixed corn- starch, and stir until it is a thick batter ; pour this on the well-beaten whites of four eggs, add two teaspoons vanilla, pour into mold wet in cold water, and set on ice ; when cold turn from the mold and 112 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. serve in a custard made as follows : Put one pint milk in a basin over boiling water, mix in a tea-cup two even teaspoons corn-starch in two of cold milk, beat in the four yolks of eggs, and two and a half tablespoons sugar. When the milk is hot pour part of it into the cup and stir well, pour it back into the basin and stir until as thick as desired ; put on ice until chilled thoroughly. Blanc-mange may be colored brown with chocolate, green with spinach juice, or pink with the juice of strawberry, currant or cranberry, or a hand- some yellow with saffron or the grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice and strained through a cloth. An easy and ornamental dish can then be made by putting into the bottom of the mold a layer of the white blanc-mange, smoothing it nicely, then a layer of the colored, and finish with the white, or vice versa. Very pretty half-pint molds may be made as follows : Tilt mold in a pan of snow or pounded ice, color one-fourth the blanc-mange pink, another fourth green ; wet the molds and pour into them a little of the colored blanc-mange, putting only one color into each mold, and filling it so that when tilted the blanc-mange reaches nearly to the top and covers about two-thirds of the bot- tom ; when cold set mold level and fill with the white blanc-mange, which has meantime been kept in so warm a place as not to hard- en. If the molds are made to imitate roses or fruit, the fruit may be green, and roses pink ; if corn, yellow ; and various ways of com- bining colors and forms will suggest themselves to the ingenious housewife. Chocolate Blanc- Mange. — Half box gelatine, soaked till dis- solved in as much cold water as will cover it, four ounces sweet chocolate grated, one quart sweet milk, one cup sugar ; boil milk, sugar and chocolate five minutes, add gelatine and boil five minutes more, stirring constantly ; or to the grated chocolate add half the sugar, place in sauce pan with two table- spoons boiling water, stir over a hot fire a minute or two, add to milk in custard ket- tle with the rest of sugar, strain, flavor with vanilla, put in molds to cool, and eat with cream. If wanted for tea, make in the morning ; if for dinner, the night before. For a plain blanc-mange omit the choco- podding mqw. late. To serve very handsomely with cream set to form in a mold mth cylinder in center (any pudding or cake mold wiU. do). One may be improvised by stitching together a roll of stiff paper just the height of mold, butter it well and hold in center of mold while filling, put- ting a light weight on it to keep in place ; or, better still, use a bottle filled with shot or damp salt. When blanc-mange is turned out slip CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 113 out this cylinder, fill the cavity with whipped cream, raising it to pyramidal form, and lieap same about the base ; or, form in melon mold and serve with whipped cream around it. Farina Blanc-Mange. — Set a quart new milk over boiling water, reserving a few spoonfuls in which mix three ounces farina ; when the milk films add one-third cup sugar, the farina and a quar- ter teaspoon salt, and stir until cooked to thick batter ; pour into wet mold, let stand three hours, and eat with sugar and cream, or any custard or sauce preferred. Raspberry Blanc-Mange. — Stew nice fresh raspberries, strain off the juice and sweeten to -taste; place over the fire and when it boils stir in corn starch wet in cold water, allowing two table- spoons corn starch for each pint juice ; continue stirring until sufficiently cooked, pour into molds wet in cold water and set away to cool ; eat with creani and sugar ; other fruit can be used instead of raspberries. Bice Blanc-Mange. — Five ounces rice flour and one quart milk ; mix flour with a little cold.milk and stir till smooth, then add and stir in six ounces fine sugar, a teaspoon grated yellow rind of a lemon, or two teaspoons pure vanilla extract, or a drop or two essence of almonds ; then add the rest of the milk, stir all well together, place on the fire and boil and stir constantly until it thickens, then imme- diately pour into mold ; let it remain till perfectly stiff and cold ; eat with sugar and creani or any sauce preferred. Sago Blanc-Mange. — Boil a half pint pearl sago in one quart milk, or half milk and half water, until perfectly soft ; stir in two well-beaten eggs and pour into mold wet with cold water. Serve with the sweetened cream, or it may be eaten warm if preferred with " Fairy Butter." Vanilla Blanc-Mange. — One ounce gelatine soaked in one quart milk one hour ; set over fire, add yolks of three eggs beaten with one cup sugar, beat, to boiling, flavor with vanilla and turn into mold. Eat with sweetened cream. Apple Charlotte. — Soak one-third box gelatine an hour in third cup cold water, pour half cup boiling water over it, stir until thor- oughly dissolved and pour upon a scant pint of tart apples steamed and rubbed through a puree sieve, add one cup sugar and juice of one large lemon ; place in a basin of pounded ice and beat until it begins to thicken add well-frothed whites of three eggs, pour into two-quart mold that has been lined with sponge cake and set on ice to harden ; make a custard of the yolks, one pint milk and three ta- blespoons sugar, and when the charlotte is turned out on a. dish pour this around it. 114 CREAMS AND CTSTARDS. Strawberry Charlotte. — Dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a pint warm water, strain and when nearly set dip fresh strawberries into it and line bottom and sides of a plain round mould packed in ice ; fill with cream made after any cream or russe recipe preferred. Raspberries, blackberries and cherries may be used for same pur- pose. Serve when cold with whipped cream poured round it, dip- ping mold in warm water before turning out. A most beautiful and delicious dish. Charlotte- Russe. — Split two dozen lady-fingers (slices of sponge or other cake may be used), lay them in a mold, put one- third box gelatine into half pint milk, place it where it will be warm enough to dissolve. Whip three pints cream to a froth and keep cool ; beat yolks of three eggs and mix with half pound powdered sugar, then beat whites very stiff and add to it, strain the gelatine upon these, stirring quickly ; then add the cream, flavor with vanilla or lemon, pour over the cake, let stand upon ice two hours. Serve with whipped cream. Some add a laj^er of jelly at bottom of mold. Charlotte- Russe. — One ounce gelatine dissolved in two gillB boiling milk, well-frothed" whites of four eggs, one and a half cups white powdered sugar, one pint thick cream whipped to froth, and rose- water or vanilla for flavoring ; line a large mold with thick slices sponge cake, mix the gelatine. Large mow. sugar, cream and flavoring together, add lightly the frothed whites, pour into mold, set away on ice till required for use. This is an easy and excellent mode of making this most delicate dessert. Charlotte-Russe. — Cut stale sponge cake into slices about half an inch thick and line three molds with them, leaving a space of half an inch between each slice ; set molds where they will not be dis- turbed until filling is ready ; whip one and one-half pints cream to stiff' froth, stir into it two-thirds cup powdered sugar, one teaspoon vanilla, and half a box gelatine soaked in cold water enough to cover it for one hour, and then dissolved in boiling water enough to dissolve it (about half a cup) ; stir from the bottom of the pan until it begins to grow stiff, fill the molds and set on ice one hour, or until they are sent to table. When ready to serve loosen lightly at the sides and turn out on a flat dish. Charlotte-Russe. — Make a sponge cake and bake in a sheet, or better, buy a sheet at bakery, wet bottom of paper with cold water and take off care- fully, or if cake has accidentally been baked too hard, let stand after dampening ,,i:,:hJ!:.for fifteen minutes before taking off paper. -*'""■'! Line an unbuttered mold by trimming off edges of cake and just cutting a piece to ohBrioite-BuBso, fit the bottom, then the sides, putting light colored side of cake next to mold and fill with the fofiowing CREAMS AND CUSTAEDS. 115 prepared whipped cream : One pint thick sweet cream, four heaping tablespoons sugar and teaspoon 'flavoring, third each of lemon, va- nilla and almond, or all of one kind ; place dish in a pan of ice and whip with egg beater or whip churn. After filling mold place in bed of ice till wanted, turn out on platter and serve. Almond Bavarian Cream. — Whip one and one-half pints cream until only a half pint is left unwhipped, which put into a double boiler with a pint blanched sweet almonds pounded to paste, and add three eggs and a small cup sugar, first thoroughly beaten together ; cook until it begins to thicken, then stir in one ounce gelatine soaked two hours in half cup milk ; remove from fire, strain and add one-fourth teaspoon essence of almond ; beat until it thickens and stir in the whipped cream, pour into molds, set away until cold, and serve with whipped cream. Use one pint pistachio nuts instead of almonds, omitting essence of almond, and you have Pistachio Bavarian Cream. Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Scrape one ounce Baker's choc- olate, add two tablespoons sugar, put over a hot fire with one table- epoon hot water and stir until smooth and glossy. Have a half cup milk boiling, stir the chocolate into it and add one ounce gelatine soaked two •hours in a half cup milk. Strain into tin basin, add two tablespoons sugar, place in ice water and stir until it begins to thicken ; add a pint cream whipped to a stiff froth, mixing well, and turn into mold to harden. Serve with whipped cream. The crown molds are best for Bavarian cream, as the opening in the center may be filled with the whipped cream served with it. - Orange Bavarian Crearn. — "Whip one and one-half pints cream, and skim off until less than' a half pint remains unwhijjped : put this in a double boiler, add beaten yolks six eggs, stir until it begins to thicken, and add one ounce gelatine that has been soaked two hours in a half cup cold water, also grated rind of two oranges. When gelatine is dissolved take off and set in pan of powdered ice ; stir till it begins to cool and add juice five oranges strained over one large cup sugar. Beat until it thickens like custard, add whipped cream, stiruntil thoroughly mixed, and pour into molds. The oranges may be omitted, and flavored with vanilla the above makes a delicious Vanilla Cream. Serve when cold heaped around with whipped cream. Make Lemon Cream in same manner, using juice four lemons, or, leave out the cream, taking instead a scant pint cold water mixed with the well-beaten jrolks five eggs, stirred in with the sugar and juice, adding the whipped whites last instead of the cream, and you will have Orange or Lem^n Sponge, as you prefer. Il6 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Pine-apple Bavarian Cream. — Chop one pint canned pine- apple, and simmer over fire with small cup sugar twenty minutes and add one ounce gelatine previously soaked two hours in half cup cold water, strain through a sieve into bright tin basin, rubbing through as much of the pine-apple as possible. Beat until it begins to thicken, then stir in one pint cream, whipped, jDour-into mold and serve cold, with whipped cream around. ^ Decorate with tuft of pine-apple leaves, or if want- pineapple cresm. ed more elaborate use pine-apple decoration described in charlotte- russe. Coffee Bavarian Cream is made the same, with one cup strong, boiling hot coffee instead of the cooked pine-apple ; or, take whites four eggs and a cup cold water, leaving out whipped cream, mixing the water with the sugar and fruit before cooking, and add- ing the frothed whites of eggs instead of cream, and you will have a delicious Pine-apple Sponge. Strawberry Bavarian Cream. — Soak one ounce gelatine two hours in half cup cold water, mash one quart strawberries with large cup sugar and let stand one hour; whip one pint cream to froth, strain mashed berries through cloth into bright, tin basin, pour half cup boiling water over the soaked gelatine, and when dissolved strain it into the strawberry juice. Set basin in pan of pounded ice and . beat the mixture until it begins to thicken ; when like soft custard stir in and mix thoroughly the whipped cream, turn into a two-quart mold, or two or more smaller ones, and set away to cool and harden. Serve cold with whipped cream. Raspberry and Blackberry Ba- varian Oreams are made in exactiy same manner, as are also Peach, Apricot, and Pear Creams, first putting these fruits (which may be either canned, partially cooked, or fresh) through a puree sieve, and then cooking gently with the sugar twenty minutes, .^■^ rrrtm scrrj-*. Stirring often ; leave out the hot water and stir the I^^^^^R^^-^ soaked gelatine into -the hot fruit, which must ^^^ | g^ ^ ^^ cool before beating and adding whipped cream. Peach Cream, Pleccs of frcsh frult may be served around it. Or, for Sponges with any of the above fruits use a cup water and whites of four eggs instead of pint cream, boiling half the sugar and water together twenty minutes, then adding the gelatine, then the berries or fruit prepared as above, and stirring in the whipped whites of eggs when the mixture is partially cold and begins to thicken. Mold and serve same as creams. Italian Cream. — Soak one-third box gelatine half an hour in cold milk, put a ciuart milk in custard kettle and when boiling stir in well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, add one and a half cups sugar and the gelatine : when the custard begins to thicken take it off and pour into a deep dish in which the eight whites have been beaten to a stiff froth ; beat thoroughly together and flavor to taste ; put in. CREAMS AND CTJSTAEDS. 117 molds, and allow four hours to cool. This cream is much more easily made in winter than in summer. Chocolate Gream. — Scald one quart milk and stir into it half package gelatine, previously dissolved in one cup milk, and add cup powdered sugar. Heat up once and when gelatine is quite dis- solved strain. Wet four tablespoons chocolate with cold water and add to the mixture, which must again be heated smoking hot, then add gradually beaten yolks two eggs, and boil for five minutes, not longer, as the eggs may curdle. Turn into a large shallow dish or pan to cool, and when it begins to coagulate chocolate eream, whip in gradually and thoroughly beaten whites two eggs. Lastly add pint cream, whipped, pour into wet mold, let stand until per- fectly cold and serve with sweetened cream. By taking half the chocolate and coloring only half the cream, using a buttered paste- board to separate the two in the mold, the effect is quite pleasing. Raspberry Cream. — One quart good cream, one pint fresh raspberries ; mash and rub fruit through a fine sieve or strainer to extract the seeds, bring the cream to a boil (having reserved one pint for froth), and add it to the berries while it remains hot, sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, let it become cold. Now raise cream, which has been reserved, to a froth with a beater, take off the froth and lay it on a sieve to drain ; fill dish, or glasses as in almond custard, with the crearn and place froth on top. Very nice. Any kind of berries, jam or jelly is good, and can be used without straining. Rocli Cream. — Boil one cup rice in a custard-kettle in sweet milk until soft, add two tablespoons loaf sugar, a salt-spoon salt ; pour into a dish and place on it lumps of jelly ; beat whites of five eggs and three tablespoons pulverized sugar to stiff froth, flavor to taste, add one tablespoon rich cream, and drop the mixture on the rice, giving it the form of a rough snowy rock ; or, flavor tte rice with essence almonds, or any other preferred, put into cups and let stand till cold ; then turn out in a deep glass dish and pour round them a soft custard made after any good .recipe, placing on top of each ball a bit of bright colored jelly. Flavoring must be same, in rice and custard. Ruby Cream. — Soak half pint tapioca over night in half pint water ; simmer over slow fire in a pint cold water until clear, the soaked tapioca and a lemon rind cut in pieces ; skim out lemon paring and stir in 'four ounces sugar, half pint currant jelly, juice one lemon, two teaspoons scokeberry syrup ; let simmer a few min- utes and pour into one large or two small §lass dishes, and when perfectly cold (just before serving) cover it with either of these snows : Whipped whites four eggs with three ounces powdered 118 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. sugar added gradually, flavored with a little lemon, or one pint cream whipped with two and one-half ounces sugar. Very ornamen- tal, and called also " Ruby under the snow." Tapioca Cream. — ^Soak over night two tablespoons tapioca in one-half cup milk (or enough to cover) ; bring one quart milk to boiling point ; beat well together yolks of three eggs, half cup sugar and one teaspoon lemon or vanilla for flavoring ; add the tapioca, and stir the whole into the boiling milk, let boil once, turn into the dish, and immediately spread on the whites. Serve when cold. Tea Cream. — Dissolve one-half package gelatine in one cup milk, add one cup white sugar, and pour over it one large cup strong tea, boiling hot, strain through fine muslin and let cool; whip pint of rich cream and also two eggs ; when the gelatine is perfectly cold beat in the whites until it is a firm froth, then whip in the cream ; set away in a wet mold for eight or ten hours, and serve cold with sweetened cream. Coffee Cream is made in same manner, substi- tuting cup strong black cofi'ee for the tea. Both made at a time, molded in cups or individual molds, and turned out in alternate rows upon a plate, they make a handsome dish, and give guests a choice. The stronger and blacker the coffee the greater the contrast. Turret Cream. — One pint sweet, rich cream, one quart milk, one package Cox's gelatine, one heaping oup white sugar, three eggs beaten light, whites and yolks separately, one-half pound crystal- lized fruit — cherries and peaches, or apricots — vanilla flavoring, juice one lemon. Soak gelatine four hours in one cup milk, scald re- mainder of milk and add the sugar, and when this is dissolved the soaked gelatine ; stir over the fire until almost boiling, and divide into two parts ; return one part to the fire, and when near boiling stir in the beaten yolks, cook two minutes, and turn into a bowl to cool. When it cools whip the cream very stiff' and beat whites of eggs until they stand alone ; divide the latter into two heaps. As the yellow gelatine begins to " form " whip one-half the whites into it, a little at a time ; to the white gelatine add rest of whites in same manner alternately with whipped cream ; season yellow with vanilla and white with lemon juice beaten in last. Wet a tall fluted mold with water and place around bottom on inside a row crystalized cherries, then a layer white mixture, then a layer apricots or peach- es, sliced, layer yellow mixture, another border of cherries, arid so on until all materials are used. When flrm, which will be in a few hours (in summer set on ice), wrap a cloth wrung out of hot water on the mold, and invert upon a flat dish ; serve with sweet cream. A very beautiful, ornamental and delicious dessert, and sure to be a success if above directions are followed. Bitter almond may be used instead of'lemon if preferred. Made in the fluted mold with stem, filling in whipped cream in center, makes a still more elab=i- rate dish. CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 11& Whipped Cream. — Prepared according to directions in preface whipped cream, sweetened and flavored is a choice dessert alone, but may be served in various ways. Baked apples, and fresh or preserved berries are delicious with it. Jelly served in glasses one- third full and filled up with cream makes" a very wholesome and delicious dessert. Whipped CTeam. — One and one-half pints good rich cream sweetened and flavored to taste, three teapoons vanilla; whip to stiff froth. Dissolve three-fourths ounce best gelatine in a small cup hot water, and when cool pour into the cream ; stir thoroughly, pour in molds and set on ice, or in very cool place. Almond Custard. — Heat a quart milk (half cream is better) to boiling and add the beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of four and a half pounds almonds blanched and pound- a4aM/vM>A4'A ed to paste with four tablespoons rose water. ^ ^^^^^^X l Put over boiling water and stir constantly ^^^ffi^ffl^^^^Bi until it thickens. Then remove from fire ."I^Bn' and when nearly cold stir up thoroughly and ''"""^ "^ *""'"• pour into cups or glasses ; make a meringue with the whites of four eggs and a half cup powdered sugar, flavored with one teaspoon extract bitter almond, and heap on each cup. Apple Custard.— One pint mashed stewed apples, one pint sweet milk, four eggs, one cup sugar, and a little nutmeg, or juice and grated rind of one lemon is a nice flavoring ; bake slowly in custard cups or deep dish, and serve either hot or cold. Boiled Custard. — One quart milk, two tablespoons corn-starch, two eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, butter size of hickory-nut ; wet starch in a little of the milk, heat the remainder to near boiling in a tin pail set in boiling water. The proper heat will be indicated by a froth or film rising to the top ; add the starch till it thickens, stirring constantly, then add the eggs well-beaten with four tablespoons sugar, let it cook, stirring briskly, take off and beat well. Flavor to taste, and served with grated cocoa-nut it is elegant. Caramel Custard.— '^o make a baked custard, separate the whites and yolks of five eggs (or four), beat yolks well with a quar- ter pound (half tea-cup) sugar, add the well-beaten whites, and mix well with a quart milk. Flavor and then pour into buttered mold or cups. Set immediately into a pan boiling hot water, in moder- ately hot oven. About half an hour will be required to set it firmly. When nicely browned and puffed up, touch the middle with a knife blade ; if it cuts as smooth as around the sides it is done ; take care not to overdo. This makes a plain custard. To make Caramel Custard, let stand until perfectly cool, turn out gently on a plate and dust thickly with sugar, place in upper part of hot oven ; the sugar soon melts and browns. Or, put half cup sugar in saucepan 120 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. over the fire, stir constantly until dissolved, pour into unbuttered pudding dish, tipping the dish so it will run round the sides, fill with custard and bake ; or some butter the mold carefully, sprinkle sugar over bottom and set on stove to brown, pour in custard and bake ; when turned out the caramel will be on top. Use less sugar for the custard when carameled if not liked very sweet. Grated almonds or coacoa-nut may be added. A thinner custard may be made with less ^ggs, but it cannot be carameled unless baked in individual cups. Less eggs may also be used by substituting a portion of corn starch, boiled rice, gelatine or something else to give firmness, but the qual- ity of custard will be impaired. Baking too rapidly or too long injures custard, hence do not scald milk and eggs before setting in oven, as many recommend. By baking in boiling water the temper- ature is regular, and scorching prevented.' Boiled Caramel Custard. — One quart milk, half cup sugar, six eggs, half teaspoon salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserving a cup- ful. Beat the eggs, and add the cold milk to them. Stir the sugar in a small frying-pan until it becomes liquid and just begins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk, then add the beaten eggs and cold milk, and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Set away to cool. Serve in glasses. Chocolate Custard. — Break two sections chocolate in a half dozen pieces, put in a pan over boiling water with milk enough to barely cover ; mash and stir perfectly smooth, then add the rest of the milk (one quart in all, reserving three tablespoons in which to dissolve corn-starch) one cup sugar, yolks of six eggs, heaping table- spoon corn-starch ; beat yolks, add sugar and corn-starch (dissolved in milk), stir all slowly in the boiling milk in which the chocolate is dissolved, add pinch salt and let cook a few minutes, stirring con- stantly. Serve cold in glasses with a meringue of whites of eggs on top, or only half fill glasses with custard and finish with whipped cream as in almond cake. Or pour this custard in a deep glass dish lined with pulped apples, sift powdered sugar over top and glaze with salamander iron. Coffee Custard. — Boil together a pint each fresh strong coffee and cream and turn the mixture over eight eggs beaten up with one and one-half cups sugar, stirring rapidly, then set into boiling hot water and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens ; pour into cus- tard cups and serve cold with whipped cream or frothed whites of eggs on top. Cofn Meal Custard. — To the well beaten yolks of three eggs add a quart milk and tablespoon each butter and sugar ; then add gradually scant three-quarters tea-cup fine corn meal, well whipped whites and flavor with nutmeg ; pour in cups, boil or steam fifteen minutes and brown delicately in oven ; or reserve whites of two eggs, CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 121 add to them two tablespoons sugar, cover tops and brown as above and serve hot or cold. Cup Custards. — One scant quart milk, four well-beaten eggs one cup sugar, flavor to taste; stir ' thoroughly together until sugar is dis- ^e^ solved ; pour into cups and set in pan -^^ boiling hot water in oven to bake. "~ ouBtord in oups. They will be done in about thirty minutes. Serve cold in the cups. Fruit Custards. — Stew any kind of fruit almost to a jelly, strain off the juice, cool, and sweeten to taste. To one quart sweet- ened juice add eight well-beaten eggs stirred into three pints new milk. Set in boiling water until it thickens, or bake twenty to thirty minutes. Serve in cups or a deep dish as preferred either hot or cold. Whipped whites of eggs over the top improves its appearance. Oelatine Custard. — To one-third package Cox's gelatine add a little less than one pint boiling water : stir until gelatine is dissolved, add juice onq lemon, and one and a half cups sugar ; strain through a jelly-strainer into dish for the table, and set in a cool place. For custard, to one and a half pints milk add yolks of four eggs (reserv- ing the whites), and four tablespoons sugar; cook and flavor when cool. ^Mien required for the table cut gelatine into small squares and pour the custard over them. Add four tablespoons powdered sugar to whites of four eggs well beaten, and when ready for the table place over the custard with a spoon. Lemon Custard. — Put the thin yellow rind of two lemons, with juice of three, and sugar to taste, into one pint warm water. As lemons vary in size and juiciness the exact quantity of sugar can not be given. Ordinary lemons require three gills. It will be safe to begin with this quantity and more may be added if required. Beat the whites to stiff' froth, then the yolks, then beat both together^ pour in gradually while beating the other ingredients ; put all in a pail, set in a pot boiling water, and stir until thick as boiled custard. Strain in a deep dish ; when cool place on ice. Serve in glasses. Snow-lall Custard -Half package Cox's gelatine, three eggs, two cups sugar, juice one lemon ; soak gelatine one hour in cup cold water, add one JDint boiling water, stir until_ thoroughly dissolved ; add two-thirds of the sugar and the lemon juice ; beat whites of egga to stiff froth, and when the gelatine is quite cold whip it into the whites a spoonful at a time, beating from half an hour to an hour Whip steadily and evenly, and when all is stiff pour in a mold or in a dozen egg-glasses previously wet with cold water and set in a cold place. In four or five hours place in a glass dish. Make a custard of one and one-half pints milk, yolks of eggs and remainder of the sugar, flavor with vanilla and when the snow-balls are turned out ol the mold pour this around the base. 122 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Goooa-nut Island. — Line with cake bottom and sides of dish in whiph dessert is to be served ; dissolve in custard kettle one pint sugar in half pint water, add one tablespoon corn-starch previously mixed smooth with a little water and well-beaten yolks of four eggs ; cook till it thickens, add juice of two lemons, heaping tablespoon butter and cook a few minutes then pour inlo dish ; grate one cocoa- nut, sweeten a little and put over the custard ; place a meringue of the well-beaten whites, half cup sugar and a few drops lemon juice in flakes over the top, brown delicately in oven and serve either hot or cold. A nice way is to make in souffle dish, or baking dish that will fit and serve in silver receptacle, or use a fancy dish and brown top with salamander iron as directed in souffles. Floating Island. — Make custard of yolks of six eggs, one quart milk, small pinch salt, sugar to taste ; beat anid strain yolks before adding to milk ; place custard in a large tin pan and set in stove, stirring constantly until it boils, then remove, flavor with lemon or rose, and pour into a dish (a shallow, wide one is best), spread ~ smoothly over the boiling hot custard the well-beaten whites, grating some loaf sugar (some add grated cocoa-nut) on top ; set the dish in a pan of ice-water and serve cold ; or turn into glasses and serve with whipped cream or frothed whites of egg on top, ^^^^^^^^^^ finishing with lump of jelly in 'jISTpiratinTisiiHar"''''''" center. Some prepare the whites by placing a tablespoon at a time on boiling water or milk, lifting them out carefully, when cooked, with a skimmer and laying them gently on the float. Do not crowd them while cooking. This is the "old reliable recipe." Another way of serving is to pour the above cus- tard over slices of small round sponge cakes, spread with fruit jelly and placed in ice cream saucers, piling a spoonful whipped cream on top of each; or cut sponge cake in slices and lay them on around dish on the top of the custard. On this put a layer of apri- cots or currant jam, and some more slices of cake. Pile upon this very high a whip made of damson or other jam and the whites of four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruits or sweetmeats. Still another beautiful and delicious island is made by whipping whites four eggs very stiff and beating with one tumbler jelly, adding one pint powdered sugar gradually, then beating the whole until perfectly stiff. Chill on ice and serve by half filling a glass dish with milk and cover it with the island in spoonfuls stand- ing in peaks. To be eaten with sweetened cream. Moonshine. — This dessert combines a pretty appearance with palatable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 123 whites of six eggs to very stiff froth, add gradually six tablespoons powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), beating not less than thirty minutes, then beat in about one heaping tablespoon preserved peaches cut in tiny bits (or some use one cup Jelly), and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. Hidden Mountain. — Six eggs, a few slices citron, sugar to taste, three-quarters pint cream, a layer of any kind of jam ; beat whites and yolks of eggs separately, then mix and beat again, adding citron, cream and sugar ; when well-beaten put in a buttered pan and fry ; cover with the jam and garnish with slices of citron; to be eaten cold. Orange Float. — One quart water, the juice and pulp two lemons, one coffee-cup sugar ; when boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the beaten white of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla. Trifle. — In the bottom of a deep glass bowl place bits of sponge cake, it matters not how stale, cut into , squares or strips ; a small piece of preserved citron \ cut into slices ; soak these in cream nicely flavored, then fill the bowl to within half an inch of the top with boiled custard, rich and cold ; lastly, heap the bowl up high with whipped cream or whites of eggs, and place on it nuts, fruits or jelly, cut in thin slices, so that they will not sink into the cream. Trifle. Ambushed TriAe. — Take a round stale sponge cake, cut the top from it in One piece and lay it aside. With sharp knife carefully remove inside of cake leaving sides and bottom about an inch thick and coat well with sweet jelly or jam ; crab-apple jelly is very nice. Scald a pint milk, beat three eggs with two tablespoons powdered sugar, and stir into milk when almost boiling ; crumb the cake taken out and beat into the hot custard ; return Jo the hot fire and cook, stirring constantly, until thick and smooth, then add one teaspoon corn-starch wet with a little milk, cook a minute longer and take from fire ; when nearly cold flavor with vanilla, lemon, or bitter almond, and fill the cake with it. Cover inside of the lid of cake laid aside with jelly, and fit neatly into its place. Brush the whole cake with white of an egg, sift powdered sugar thickly over it, or frost with plain or boiled frosting, and set in a cool, dry place until wanted. A simple, delightful dessert. Lemon Trifle. — Strain juice two lemons over one large cup sugar and grated rind of one lemon and lot stand two hours ; then 124 SOUFFLES. add one cup juice of any fruit preferred, and a little nutmeg. Strain, and whip into it gradually a pint sweet cream that has been whipped stiff. Serve'in jelly glasses and send around with cake. Should be eaten soon after it is made. Souffles. The extreme lightness and delicacy of a well-made souffle ren- der it a general favorite. It may be varied greatlj' in its composition and is commonly served under the name of the flavoring used. Vanilla is one of the most delicate flavorings for this elegant dish. The secret of making, a souffle well is to have the eggs well whipped, particularly the whites, using for them a perfectly dry dish and beater as the slightest moisture will prevent their coming to a froth, and unless the froth of egg be very stiff the omelette souffle will be made _heavy by it and so spoiled. Put all ingredients together quickly but gently, stirring, not beating, and if to be baked place in oven as soon as whites are added in a buttered souffle dish or pan, filling only half full, as it will rise verj' light. Do not have the oven too hot nor open oven door for the first quarter of an hour, at least. When the souffle has risen very high, is of a fine yellow color, and quite done in the center, as it will be in from a half to three-quarters of an hour, send immedi- ately to table, for if allowed to stand it will sink in the center and its appearance and goodness be entirely spoiled. To keep hot, and so preserve its lightness, the souffle is often carried to table on a hot shovel, or with a hot salamander iron held over it, and placed in the ornamental dish already on the table, and served in a dinner of ceremony as saiimMdar. an entremert, a remove of the second course roast, or for luncheon • quickly hand it round instead of placing on the table. The sala- mander, or braising iron, is a very convenient utensil for browning the tops of boiled souffles, puddings and, the meringues spread over creams, blanc-manges, or pu(liliii,c;s to be served cold, or in glass SOUFFLES. 125 dishe s, doing aw ay with the necessity of placing them in the oven. ^^^^^^^^1 The souffle pan may be of either earthen ware ^ j/ , or tin, and should be about three inches deep, ^^^SB^^ fitting into an ornamental dish for serving, fi^ ^r .p^WSfc ^ which is usually of silver. This article will ^ ^^Un^.i.!!!!!^® found very convenient, as it may be used ^ t" iff'iii^^T '^"' for custards, puddings, scalloped oysters. Ornamental Souffle Dish. potato crcam, or auy dlsh served in the pan in which it is baked. Souffles maj', however, be baked in any deep tin or earthen baking pan, which may be sent to table on a plate or platter, surrounded by a neatly folded napkin. Apple SouMe. — One pint steamed apples, pulped ; one tablespoon melted butter, half cup sugar, whites of six eggs and yolks of three, a slight grating of nutmeg, and a little lemon peel. Stir into the hot apple the butter, sugar and nutmeg, and the yolks of the eggs, well-beaten. When this is cold, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir into the mixture. Butter a three-pint dish, and turn the souffle into it. "Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve immediately with any kind of sauce. Cheese SouMe. — Melt a tablespoon butter, stir into it two table- spoons flour, add one gill milk and stir until boiling ; throw in one- half teaspoon each salt and white pepper and a grain Cayenne ; take from fire and stir in one by one yolks'of three eggs and three ounces ■ grated cheese, beating the whole thoroughly, then add well-frothed whites four eggs, stirring so carefully as not to beat down the froth ; bake in cups in quick oven ten minutes. Serve in the cups on hot plate the moment the souffle is done, placing them in a napkin folded in basket shape upon the table. Chestnut SotoMe. — Throw one pint fresh chestnuts into boiling water and boil until shells begin to crack ^open. Take from the water, remove shells and inner skins, pound in a mortar and make perfectly smooth by passing them through a sieVe. Pour one pint milk over the chestnut-flour and stirring these together put the mixture into a small saucepan and let it cook over a slow fire ten minutes, melt a tablespoon butter and stir into it two tablespoons flour ; turn this into the milk and chestnuts, and the instant the mixture boils take from fire and add two tablespoons powdered sugar, yolks three 6ggs, and beat all well together ; stir in lightly the stiffly frothed whites of four eggs, pour into well-greased souffle pan and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. Chicken SouMe. — Take the breast of one raw chicken, chop fine, and pound in a mortar, melt a half tablespoon butter and stir into it one tablespoon each flour and sweet cream ; when boiling take from fire 126 SOUFFLES. and pour over the mixture in the mortar adding one egg ; pound well together, season with pepper and salt and pass through a sieve ; whip a gill of cream (less the tablespoon used) to a froth and. add to the mixture ; have ready two truffles, cut into stars, and place one star in the bottom of each buttered cup-tin, fill half full of the souffle mixture, cover with greased paper, put into a pan boiling water and let them simmer slowly fifteen minutes ; when done turn out on hot platter, leaving truffles uppermost, and serve at once. Chocolate SouMe. — Break four eggs, whites and yolks sepa- rately ; add to the yolks three teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon flour; three ounces chocolate, grated, and stir rapidly five minutes ; whip whites of eggs till firm and add them to the other ingredients. But- ter the souffle pan, put in the mixture and bake in moderate oven fifteen or twenty i^inutes ; strew sugar over and serve immediately, carrying to table with hot salamander over the top. Another excel- lent chocolate souffle is made by melting one large tablespoon butter, stirring into it over the fire two tablespoons flour, adding a gill of milk, and when boiling remove from the stove, add nine tablespoons grated chocolate and a heaping tablespoon sugar, and drop in one by one the yolks of four eggs, stirring briskly all the time ; whip whites of four eggs and stir in last very lightly ; poiir the mixture into the souffle pan, set in a pan of hot water reaching half way up its sides, cover and simmer on back of range thirty minutes without uncover- ing ; when done, brown with salamander, set pan into souffle dish or envelop in a napkin ; serve at once. Or to the well-beaten yolks of six eggs add half pint butter, cup flour, pint milk and half cup grated chocolate ; bake in souffle dish in hot oven ; serve at onee. Chocolate SouMe. (Cold). — Two cups milk, one and a half squares Baker's chocolate, three-fourths cup powdered sugar, two tablespoons corn-starch, three eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the milk in double boiler, leaving out third of a cup to mix with the corn starch. After mixing, stir into the boiling milk and cook eight minutes. Dissolve the chocolate with half a cup of the sugar and two tablespoons boiling water ; add to the other mixture ; beat the yolks and add them and the salt. Cook two minutes. Set in cold water and beat until cool, then add flavor and pour into a dish ; beat whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add the remaining sugar and heap on the custard. Dredge with sugar and brown with a salamander or hot shovel. Cream SouMe. — Four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract, one cup cream, whipped. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and gradually add sugar and flavoring to them. A\'hen well-beaten add yolks, and lastly the whipped cream. Have a dish holding about one (|uart slightly buttered. Pour the mixture into this and hnkcjust ticelvc mhii'fes. Serve the mo- ment it is taken froju the oven. SOUFFLES, 127 Jelly SoiiMe. — Boil one quart milk and add three tablespoons corn-starch wet with a little cold' milk ; stir one minute and pour into a bowl over beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of two, and one- half cup powdered sugar ; whip two or three minutes, put into but- tered dish, set in pan of boiling water in oven and bake half an hour, or until firm. Just before taking out cover quickly with jelly or jam and over this put a meringue of the four whites of eggs and a half cup ppwdered sugar. Close oven doors for a moment till meringue is slightly colored. When cold serve with cream. Lemon SouMe. — Melt two tablespoons butter and stir into it four tablespoons flour ; add one ounce arrowroot, four tablespoons sugar and one pint milk (having previously taken one gill of the milk in which to steep the thin yellow rind of a lemon for flavoring), stir until it boils and when boiling strain into it the milk from the lemon rinds. Set aside and when slightly cool drop in one by one the yolks of four eggs, stir well together and add the frothed whites of five eggs, stirring them in very lightly. Turn quickly into souffle pan, cover and set in boiling water ; draw to back of range and let simmer three-quarters of an hour, keeping closely covered. Serve when done as quickly as possible. Macaroon SouMe. — Soak one-third box gelatine in half cup water two hours, then set over hot water and stir until dissolved, strain and stir it into one pint juice of any kind of fruit preferred. Add a half cup sugar, or sweeten to taste, place the pan on ice and as soon as the mixture begins to thicken whip until it hardens like jelly ; set away on ice. Brown ten macaroons in oven, cool them and roll fine. Just before ready to serve make any soft custard liked, omitting the flavoring, turn it into a scuffle dish, heap the ftuit jelly on this and cover with the macaroon crumbs. • Omelette SouMe. — Cream yolks of three eggs and three table- spoons sugar in a deep bowl and flavor as wished ; add well-frothed whites of six eggs, and with a spoon, giving it a rotary motion, cut the two, mixing carefully together ; turn on the souflae dish (or any baking dish) slightly buttered, smooth, sprinkle with sugar and bake in moderate oven ; when risen well and of fine yellow color, serve ; or, for Fruit Omelette SouMe add to the well frothed whites of three eggs a tablespoon marmalade or fresh peaches cut in fine pieces, mix with powdered sugar and bake in a rather quick oven ; or place a layer of marmalade on bottom of dish and pour the omelette Bouflle over and bake. Omelette SouMe— Fut one pint milk over the fire, reserving suffi- cient to wet up three heaping tablespoons potato flour, rice flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, as preferred, stir this into the milk, add piece of butter size of walnut, and sweeten to taste. Stir over the fire un- til it thickens, then take off' and cool a little. Separate the whites 128 SOUFFLES. from the yolks of four eggs, beat the yolks, and stir them into the souffle batter. Whisk the whites of eggs to the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the dish ; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence of any flavor- ing preferred ; pour the batter into a soufile dish, put it immediately into the oven, and bake about half an hour ; then take out and put the dish into the more ornamental one, hold a salamander or hot shovel over the souffle, strew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to table. Another delicious souffle is made by beating yolks of four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt and tablespoon flavor- ing together, and adding quickly the well- ^^^ frothed whites. Have a large omelette pan ^^E^^i^^ll^^^ very hot. Put in one tablespoon butter and ^^^^^^pT pour in half the mixture. Shake rapidly for ^ *"'' •' ^^ a minute ; then fold and turn on a hot dish. Omelette Pm. Put thc remainder of the butter and mixture in the pan and proceed as before. Turn this omelette on the dish by the side of the other. Dredge lightly with sugar, and place in oven for eight minutes. Serve the moment it comes from oven. Orange SouMe. — Peel and slice six oranges, pUt in a glass dish a layer of oranges ; then one of sugar, and so on until all the orange is used, and let stand two hours ; make a soft boiled custard of yolks of three eggs, pint milk, sugar to taste, with grating of orange peel for flavor, and pour over the oranges when cool enough not to break dish ; beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, stir in sugar and put over the top ; may be browned with salamander iron or hot shovel. Praised by all. Potato SouMe. — Clean well with a brush and bake four large potatoes, cut off the tops, scoop out the inside, taking care not to break the skins ; rub the potato through a sieve and add to it a half gill of boiling milk into which a tablespoon of -r^ MST&f^rsjr^-- butter and half teaspoon each salt and white «fiWMt4!S)i'« pepper have been stirred ; continue stirring until potato becomes hot, take from the fire and drop in the yolks of three eggs, stirring each one thoroughly ivith the potato mixture before dropping in another ; lastly, stir in lightly the frothed whites of five eggs, being careful not to break the froth ; fill the potato skins two-thirds full of this mixture, stand upright in a pan, and bake in a quick oven from seven to ten minutes. The souffle will be done when the finger can be pressed upon it and withdrawn without any adhering. Serve on hot platter. Potato Souffle. CONFECTIONERY. 129 COlSTFECTIOlSrERY. There are very few modern kitchens in which some cooking utensils may not be found convenient for making candy. A sauce- pan of tiniied iron, with a handle and flaring sides, and a lip to facilitate the pouring of the contents, will be found best adapted to such use ; or a small iron or brass kettle will do if kept quite clean. Dissolve four pounds white sugar (granulated sugar is preferred) in one quart water, place this in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire for half an hour, pour into it a small quantity of gelatine and gum- arabic dissolved together, or white of an egg ; all the impurities which rise to the surface skim off at once. To make the clarifying process still more perfect, strain through. a flannel bag. Another way to '"'saiolpai. clarify sugar or syrup is to put two pounds sugar, one pint water, and well-beaten white of an egg into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan. When sugar is dissolved place over the fire, and when it boils throw in a cup cold water, and do not stir the sugar after this is added. Bring to the boiling-point again, and then place the pan on back of stove or range to settle. Remove all scum and the syrup will be ready for use. The scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what syrup runs from it may be boiled up again ; this must also be well skimmed. It will take about twenty minutes for the sugar to dis- solve, and five minutes to boil. After clarifying confectioners pre- pare different degrees of sugars as follows : 9 130 CONFECTIONERY. Candy or Thread Sugar. — Having clarified the sugar put syrup over the fire and let boil until smooth, dip a skimmer into sugar, touch it with thumb and and fore-finger, first dipping them in water, and instantly open them, when a fine short thread of sugar will form ; a few minutes' more boiling and the thread will be longer and stronger, and has attained the first degree. SouMe Sugar. — Boil the syrup still longer, then dip in the skimmer and blow ofi" the syrup. If boiled long enough bubbles will form on the holes of the skim- mer. The second degree is reached. Feathered Sugar. — Boil still longer, again dip the skimmer, shake it, and give a sudden flirt ; if boiled enough the sugar will fly off like small feathers or down. Crackling Sugar. — Boil still longer, till on dipping a stick into the pan and plunging into cold water the sugar snaps and becomes instantly hard. Caramel or Spun Sugar. — First boil one pound sugar and one gill water together very quickly over a clear fire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep boiling until it snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree; then squeeze in a little lemon-juice and let remain an instant on the fire; then set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is ready for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with this sugar, which with a fork should be spread over them in fine threads or network. A dish of light paste, tastefully arranged, looks very pretty with thif sugar spun lightly over it, and it makes an elegant coloring for any sweetmeats. The sugar must be care-, fully watched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless one is very experienced and thoroughly understands the work, it is scarcely worth while to attempt this elaborate ornament, yet if these direc- tions are carefully followed one may be successful. To make rock candy, boil -the syrup a few moments, allow to cool, and crystalliza- tion takes place on the sides of the vessel. To make other candies, bring the syrup very carefully to such a degree of heat that the "threads" which drop from the spoon when raised into the colder air will snap like glass. When this stage is reached add a teaspoon of vinegar or cream tartar to prevent " graining," and pour into pans as directed in the recipes which follow. Butter should be put in when candy is almost done, and flavors are more delicate when added just after taking from the fire. To make round stick candies, pull, and roll into shape with well-floured hands as soon as cool COXFECTIONERY. 13J enough to handle. In making candy into flat sticks, squares, or any shape, indent it when partially cool with a warm knife rubbed with butter, and when cold it will separate easily. Colored candies are often injurious, and sometimes even poisonous, and should be avoided. In making meringues, trifles* and kisses, use fine powdered sugar ("Confectioners' XXX " is the best grade) p -— i iioTir.. and provide a cone-shaped bag of strong, heavy gvJ__ liBiilliW linen or ticking — or for once using, strong ^^B|li| |/'#y brown paper will do — through a hole in the ^Blll ll/f small end put a funnel-shaped tin tube one- ^■||1 W,^ .f^^ half inch in diameter at the small end, and pro- M|||' W/ ml vided with a flange at the other to prevent it jterihgne Bag. from slipping quite through (these tubes are of various shapes for kisses, trifles, lady-fingers, etc.), tie the small end of the bag firmly around the tube, and holding bag in right hand squeeze the mixture through in shapes desired, using a good deal of pressure if cakes are to be large, but if small very little will do. Bake in a very mod- erate oven, or let dry in cool oven for two hours. The oven for meringues, kisses, etc., should be slower than for angel cake, and kept at an even temperature ; if meringues are exposed to much heat they will be spoiled. When powdered almonds are to be used, they should be thoroughly dried in the open air after blanching, and they will pulverize more easily. In making macaroons or drops, or pulling butter-scotch or taffy, butter hands lightly to prevent stick- ing. Flouring the hands is apt to give an unpleasant taste to the candy. Blanched almonds should always be prepared the day before wanted that they may become perfectly dry before using. To blanch them, shell and put them into hot water after it comes to a boil, and let boil a few minutes, then throw them into cold water, slip off the skins and dry in the open air. Never dry them in the oven, which takes away the oil. Shelled almonds are more economical for use in cakes or confectionery. One pound of unshelled almonds only makes six and one-half ounces or one coffee-cupful when shelled, while the shelled are generally only double the price, and sometimes not that per pound. The Princess is the best variety to buy in the shell. The bitter almond is considered injurious to animal life and should be used with great caution. Of the shelled sweet almonds the Jordan is the finest, though the Sicely is good. To prepare 132 CONFECTIONERY. cocoanut make an incision through the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, and set pieces in heater or in a cool, open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to dry — or better in open air, as too much heat dries the oil — then grate ; if all is not used, sprinkle with sugar (after grating) and spread out in a cool, dry place, and it will keep for weeks. Dessicated cocoanut may always be used in place of the fresh, first mioistening slightly with milk. If one is at hand use the labor-saving grater for grating cocoa-nut and almonds, for which it is de- Labor-B»rine Gr«i«r. signed, as well as for pumpkins, horse-radish, and such other arti- cles as need treatment on a coarse grater. It is fastened to a strong frame which is screwed to a table, and as wUl be readily seen does its work with great rapidity. This is as great an improvement in its way as the modern egg beater is over a spoon. For sending away home-made confections or bride's cake very pretty little satin satch- ets are made, which are of course much more highly prized by the recipients than the fancy boxes for that purpose to be had of confectioners. The white wire candy tongs illustrated are an excellent substi- tute for silver, where the latter can not be cndy Tongs. afibrded, for use in serving candies provided for dessert. Butter- Scotch. — Three pounds " coffee A " sugar, fourth pound butter, half teaspoon cream tartar, eight drops extract lemon ; add as much cold water as will dissolve the sugar ; boil ■without stirring till it will easily break when dropped in cold water, and when done add lemon ; have a dripping-pan well buttered and pour in one-fourth inch thick, and when partly cold mark off in squares as directed in preface. If pulled when partly cold till very white, it will be like ice-cream candy. Hoarhound Candy. — Boil two ounces dried hoarhound in a pint and a half water for about half an hour ; strain and add three and a half pounds brown sugar; boil over a hot fire until it is sufiiciently hard, pour out in flat, well-greased tin traj's, and mark into sticks or small squares as above. Lemon Candy. — Take a pound loaf sugar and a large cup water, CONFECTIONERY. 133 and after cooking over a slow fire half an hour clear with a little hot vinegar, take off the scum as it rises, testing by raising with a spoon, and when the " threads " will snap like glass pour into a tin pan and when nearly cold mark in narrow strips with a knife. Before pour- ing into the pans, chopped cocoa-nut, almonds, peanuts, hickory- nuts, or Brazil-nuts cut in slices, may be stirred into it. Maple Candy. — Three and a half pounds or two quarts maple sugar, one and a half pints water ; mix in a vessel large enough to hold the candy when expanded by heat ; boil over a brisk fire taking care that it does not burn. The heat should be applied at bottom and not at sides. When it boils up throw in a little cold water, take from fire and skim well, and do this as often as impurities arise. After boiling fifteen minutes remove a small portion of the melted sugar with a spoon and cool by placing in a saucer set in cold water. When cool enough take a portion between thumb and finger and if it forms a " string " or " thread " as they are separated, the process is nearly done, and great care must be used to control the heat so that the boiling may be kept up' without burning. Test frequently by •dropping a bit into cold water placed near ; if it becomes hard and larittle, snapping apart when bent, it is done. Stir in a teaspoon cream tartar or tablespoon vinegar, remove from stove at once and pour into shallow dishes, thoroughly but lightly greased, covering each thinly. Cool until it can be handled, pull to any length or^ width desired and finish as directed in preface ; indent, separate or roll into sticks or make any desired shapes. Begin pulling as soon as possible, as it is more brittle than molasses candy. Molasses Candy. — Two cups molasses, one cup brown sugar and butter half the size of a walnut ; boil twenty minutes, then add two teaspoons cream tartar, one of soda and one tablespoon vinegar. Pull till light. Taffy : Two tablespoons vinegar, four of water, six of sugar (white is nicest) ; boil twenty minutes and pour into a b-uttered plate. Peanut Candy. — Boil two pounds brown sugar, one gill good molasses and a half pint water until it hardens in cold water when dropped from a spoon, and add two teaspoons vanilla, a teaspoon soda (dry) and four quarts skinned peanuts (measured before they are shelled). Turn into shallow, well-buttered pans and press down smooth with wooden spoon. When partially cold cut into strips. Unrivalled of its kind. For other nut candy use walnuts, hickory- nuts or almonds. Another way is to fill a buttered tin tray to the depth of about an inch with the nuts, and pour over them just enough of the candy mixture to barely cover ; cool and mark as directed Cocoa-nut Patties. — Rasp a good fresh cocoa-nut on a grater, letting none of the rind fall. Spread the cocoa-nut thus grated on 134 CONFECTIONERY. a dish and let it stand in some cool, dry place two days to dry grad- ~ ually. Add to it double its weight of sifted I powdered sugar, the whites of six eggs, well- ™„,,^— ^— __— whipped, and a cup flour to every pound "cocoa-nut Patties. sugar. i)rop thc mixture on a baking-tin, a spoonful at a time, or into drop-cake tins. Bake in very gentle oven about twenty minutes, take from tins while warm and when cold put away in close tin box or can. Bergamot Drops. — One pound sifted granulated sugar, one gil ^bergamot water, mixed well over the fire about five minutes. Drop in very round drops on paper. Centennial Drops. — White of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, quarter pound pulverized sugar, half teaspoon baking powder ; flavor with lemon ; butter tins and drop with teaspoon about three inches apart ; bake in a slow oven and serve with ice-cream. This is also a very nice recipe for icing. Chocolate Drops. — Scrape or grate chocolate to a powder, and mix one ounce of it with each pound sugar used ; make into paste with cold water and boil up gently. Drop on thick white paper from a spoon to cool and dry. Coffee Drops made same way, allow- ing one ounce finely powdered cofiee to one pound sugar. Cinnamon Drops. — Put one ounce cinnamon in a mortar, sift- ing it afterwards through a fine hair or silk sieve ; mix with it over the stove a pound loaf sugar moistened with a very little water. Take the mixture up in a teaspoon and drop on stiff white writing paper. Let them get cold and they will come ofi" easily. Make Clove Drops saine way. CoGOa-nut Drops. — One pound cocoa-nut, half pound powdered sugar, and the white of an egg ; work all together and roll into little balls in the hand ; bake on buttered tins. Fresh Damson Drops. — Bake some damsons, skin, stone and strain through a sieve. Mix enough sifted powdered sugar to make a thin paste, drop on paper and let them get quite dry ; then put them on a sieve, wetting it a little or they will stick. They must again dry on a stove and be kept in a box. Ginger Drops. — Pound and sift as much ginger as j'ou wish the drops to taste of, and stir with one pound loaf sugar and a little water over the fire until it boils up. Drop and dry on paper. Lemon Drops. — Squeeze the juice from six good lemons and add sifted loaf sugar until so stiff it can hardly be stirred ; put in (shallow saucepan and stir over the fire five minutes. Drop from a spoon on thick paper. CONFECTIONERY. 135 Lemon and Peppermint Drops. — Set a quantity of granulated sugar and a little water over the fire in a saucepan with a lip, in the proportion of two ounces water to one pound sugar. It must not come to a full boil, but remove from stove just as the bubbles that denote the boiling point is reached begin to form ; let cool a little, stirring rapidly, add strong essence lemon or peppermint to taste, and droji as uniformly as possible on sheets of manilla paper, tilting the vessel slightly and stroking off the drops from the lip with bit of stiff wire or a spoon. Keep in a warm place for a few hours to dry. Delicious drops may be made by substituting juice of fresh fruits for essence, or using any other essence preferred. Orange Drops. — Squeeze out the juice of three good lemons, adding some sifted powdfered sugar ; grate six small sweet oranges, put all in a shallow pan on the fire till it is of a nice thickness, stir continuously with a wooden spoon five or six minutes. Take the mixture from the fire and drop it on thick white paper in small ■drops. Orgeat Drops. — Pound well in a mortar four ounces blanched almonds, moistening with a little water, and make a paste. Flavor with orange flower water, strain the whole through a cloth, moisten with half pound powdered sugar and form into drops on paper to dry. Strawberry Drops. — One-half pound each juice and powdered sugar, well-frothed whites of two eggs ; mix all together and drop on tins, putting in very cool oven to dry. Any Fresh Fruit Drops made same way. Evefton Cream Candy. — Squeeze juice of one large lemon into a cupi ; boil one and one-half pounds moist white sugar, two ounces butter, one and a half cups water"; together with half the rind of the lemon, and when done (which may be known by its becoming quite crisp when dropped into cold water) set aside till boiling has ceased and then stir in the juice of the lemon, butter a dish and pour in about an inch thick ; when cool take out peel (which may be dried), pull until white, draw out into sticks and check about four inches long with a knife. If you have no lemons, take two tablespoons vinegar and two teaspoons lemon extract. The fire must be quick and the candy stirred all the time. French Cream Candy.. — Put into a saucepan one pint water to each poimd sugar ; boil carefully, for upon this depends the success of the candies; .when it has boiled ten minutes (do not stir while boiling) it is time to try it ; drop from the spoon into a bowl of ice Water and if when it falls to the bottom you can take it up between the thumb and finger into a soft ball, which must not be sticky, it is Ai the right point. Set from the fire, and if when cool a thin, jelly 136 CONFECTIONERY. like film forms over the surface, it is properly done, and the candy may be made ; but if the coating over the top seems at all sugary aud the candy is wanted creamy and nice, a few spoonfuUs of water must be added and the syrup returned to ,the fire and boiled until the proper consistency is reached, which test as before. Do not let it become the least brittle ; if it does, add water and cook again. A pinch of cream tartar helps to check the tendency to return, to sugar. When the syrup is perfectly done and cooled so that the finger may be borne in it, beat rapidly with a spoon, and in ten minutes it should be a white paste resembling lard, which can be worked like bread dough. This is the foundation for all fine candies and is called by French confectioners Fondant. The simplest French candies are made from this by coloring yellow and flavoring with lemon, or pink and flavoring with raspberry, and working into balls, cones, shells, grooved cones, or any shape fancy dictates, and letting them stand until they harden. Or into the pink colored fondant work chopped English walnuts, flavor with vanilla, press into oiled paper cases an inch wide and deep, and three or four inches long, and when firm turn out and cut mto cubes for Walnut Creams. Or use chopped almond, leaving the paste white, flavor with vanilla, and make Vanilla Almond Cream. Work into a piece of the paste or fondant chopped almonds, citron, a few currants and seedless raisins, flavor with lemon, vanilla or raspberry, shape in paper forms and the result is Tutti Frutti Candy. One should bring into use the inventive faculties and with the above as helps make as many other varieties as wished. A very handsome variety is called Ribbon Cream Candy and is made thus : Divide a quantity of the paste prepared as directed into three equal parts, leaving one white, color one pink with cochineal and another brown with melted chocolate, flavoring each to taste ; divide the brown and white into two parts, making into strips an inch and a half wide ; make the pink also into a strip of same width and length, which will leave it twice as thick as the others. Lay a strip of the brown on a piece of manilla, or buttered or waxed paper, then a strip of white on that, then the pink, then the white, and finish with the brown ; press lightly to make them adhere but do not squeeze out of shape ; leave a few hours to harden, trim smoothly with a knife and cut crosswise into slices half an inch thick, lay on waxed or manilla paper to dry, turning occasionally, and pack away in boxes. If the paste becomes hard while working, let it stand over hot water a few minutes ; or if wished fresh for dessert, do not divide the colors but form into a small brick, as in cut, with brown layer first, then the pink, with white on top. ; Place on small fruit plate and serve by \ cutting in thin slices. Cream Walnuts or Almonds are made by shelling and drying w>>t>oii cream canay. the nuts and then dipping into the paste, first melted over boil CONFECTIONEEY. 137 ing water until it is like cream. If the nut shows through the cream it IS too hot and must be set out of the water and beaten until cool and thick enough to thoroughly coat the nuts. If it hardens return to the boiling water. Dry the creamed nuts on manilla paper. Another variety of nut candy is made by rolling the paste into balls and placing half a whole kernel of walnut, almond, or other nuts on each side, pressing it in until it adheres firmly. Vhocolate Creams are made by boiling a half pound sugar and three tablespoons thick, sweet cream, till it makes a soft ball in water ; let it cool, th^ beat till it is very white, flavor with a few drops vanilla and make into balls size of a small marble ; warm some unsweetened chocolate and mix it with a piece of the melted paste (using more chocolate than paste) until quite smooth and thick enough to coat the creams. Drop the balls into this with a fork and take theni out to dry on waxed paper. French Cream (7aw<^?/ (Uncooked). — Used by all confectioners. Mix whites of two eggs and their bulk in water in a large bowl ; beat very well, add a dessert-spoon vanilla and about two pounds "XXX" confectioners' sugar finest grade of powdered sugar), well sifted, beat well, and the paste is ready Take one-half pound dates, remove stVjnes, put in a piece of tho candy paste and roll each one in granulated sugar. For Fig Candy, split one-half pound figs and place a layer of the dough on a board, first sprinkled well with powdered sugar to prevent its adhering, then a layer of figs, again a layer of dough, and cut in squares. Nuts of any kind may be made up into candy by using the meats for the foundation or inside of little balls of paste, and then roll in coarse sugar ; set each kind out in a cool place to harden. For Chocolate Creams roll any number of balls size of small marbles from the dough and when they are hardened dip with a fork into some baker's chocolate melted on the stove. Be careful not to allow it to boil ; better to melt in a little cup placed in pan of hot water on the stove. Cocoa-nut Candy may be made by .rolling out another portion of the dough on the floured, board, sprinkle vi^ith cocoa-nut, roll a few times with the roller, and cut into squares. A mixture of cocoa-nut and nuts chopped -fine makes a delicious candy. For English Walnut Candy split the walnuts, shape some of the dough into round flat balls, place a half of the nut on each side and press firmly. Use hickory- nut meats for Hickory-nut Candy. This candy is now being made in society circles a good deal, as there is no cooking to be done and it is very easy and clean work. A dollar's worth of all the ingredi- ents together will make many pounds of candy. Lemon Cream Candy. — Steep grated peel of one lemon in juice of two one hour and strain, squeezing cloth hard to get out all the strength ; boil six pounds best white sugar with three cups water until it hardens in cold water ; stir in the lemon juice, boil one min- 138 CONFECTIONERY. ute, add one teaspoon dry soda, stirring in well, and turn out upon broad, shallow, buttered dishes. Pull as soon as can be handled into long white ropes and cut into lengths when brittle. Use same recipe, substituting vanilla flavoring instead of lemon for Vanilla Cream Candy. Chocolate Caramels. — One cup chocolate shaved fine, one cup molasses or brown sugar, half cup milk or one cup cream, one cup sugar ; when nearly done, if milk is used, add apiece of butter size of a walnpt ; when cream is used no butter will be needed ; stir until perfectly dissolved but not after it begins to boil, as that will make it grain; it is done when it hardens and becomes brittle when dropped in cold water, but do not make too hard ; grease plates with butter, pour it on about half an inch thick ; when nearly cool cut with a buttered knife into small squares. Chocolate Caramels. — One ana a half cups grated chocolate four of brown sugar, one and a half of cold water, piece of butter size of an egg, tablespoon very sharp vinegar ; if liked, flavor with two tablespoons vanilla just before removing from fire ; do not stir, but shake the vessel gently while cooking ; boil on the top of stove over a brisk fire until it becomes brittle when tried in water ; pour into a well buttered and floured dripping-pan, and check off m squares while soft. Cocoa-nut Caramels. — One pint milk, butter size of an egg, one cocoa-nut grated fine (or dessicated cocoa-nut may be used), three ' pounds white sugar, two teaspoons lemon ; boil slowly until stiff (some then beat to a cream), pour into shallow pans and when partly cold cut in squares. The butter may be omitted. Cocoa-nut Cones. — Pound one pound blanched and shelled almonds in a mortar with whites of twelve eggs till smooth. Prepare and grate three large cocoa-nuts, and with three pounds sugar work into the pounded almonds and eggs, mold into cones size of an English walnut, place on buttered paper a little distance apart and bake in moderate oven. Dust with powdered sugar before baking, if liked. Maple Chocolate Creams.-Two and a half cups maple sugar, one- half cup cold water or cream ; boil until it makes a soft ball in cold water ; place the saucepan in cold water, and beat till cold enough to make into little balls ; take half a cake of Baker's chocolate, shave off fine, put in bowl on top of boiling tea-kettle to melt, and when balls are cool enough, roll in the chocolate with a fork. This makes eighty. Or while making into balls, mold an almond-meat into the center of each ball, roll in coarse sugar, and you have delicious Cream Almonds. Or, mold the unbroken halves of walnut-meats into the soft sugar, and when cold, roll in the chocolate. Wiiea finished, take out and lay on buttered paper until cold CONFECTIONERY. 139 Kisses. — Beat wnites of four smaii eggs to a high, firm froth, stir into it a half pound sifted powdered sugar, two teaspoons at a time, flavor with essence of lemon or rose, and beat very light ; then squeeze through the meringue or confectioner's bag heretofore described (using tube libe one in cut if you have it), or drop half the size of an egg a little more than an inch apart on ma- nilla paper spread over a half inch board, previously soaked in cold water, and place in moderate oven. As soon as they begin to look j'ellowish take them out. Almond Macaroons. — One pound blanched almonds ground very fine with a little sugar to keep from oiling, rub whites of twelve eggs, without whipping, into the almonds until perfectly smooth. Add one &nd one-half pounds pulverized sugar, two ounces corn- starch and two ounces flour, stirring each in grad- ually and thoroughly ; make into balls with a knife or meringue bag, place on ungreased papers on Mooaroons. tlns aud wlth a pastry brush dampen each one and pat into shape before putting, in oven. Chocolate Macaroons are made in exactly the same manner,working two ounces chocolate cooked with one-half cup water* and one ounce sugar into the almond macaroon pastiy Brush. j)aste when ready to make into balls. Make Hichory-nut and Pecan Macaroons in same way, taking the finely-chopped nut meats instead of almonds, and omitting the flour, using four ounces corn-starch. ^emon Macaroons. — One pound powderea sugar, four eggs whipped very light, juice of three lemions and grated peel of one, one heaping cup flour, heaping teaspoon baking powder, one-half teaspoon nutmeg ; butter the hands, take up small lumps of the mixture and make into balls the size of a walnut. Bake in_ brick oven on sheets of manilla paper, placing them more than two inches apart. Pyramid of Macaroons. — Boil loaf sugar to the candy point (see preface candy), rub butter over the outside of the tin or paper form, set flrmly on a plate or table, and begin at the bottom by putting a row macaroons aroupd it, sticking them _to- 5so liable to bruise them and slips in easier around the sides. In the two-quart cans a round wooden stick may be used for this purpose, neither knife nor spoon being long enough. Wipe off' the cans with cloth wet in hot water and also inside of covers, in sealing, first screw on the covers as closely as possible with the hand, and as the cans cool turn down with the can-tightener, which always comes with the cans, this is a great help as it is impossible to screw covers on perfectly tight with the hands. Care must be taken to have the rubber ring show an even surface all round, for if it slips back at any point air wijl be admitted. When this is found to be the case take otf the cover, find a ring to fit perfectly and re-seal (it may be necessary to add more syrup, which must squeeze out again as cover is tightened). Remove the cans from the hot platter and place where no current of air will strike them, wringing out a towel from hot water on which to stand them. When other cans are filled remove these to another part of table and set those filled last on the towel. After all are canned re-tighten the tops ; this retight- ening is very important and the tops must be turned down again, and again, the glass contracting as the fruit cools. Let the cans stand over night hottom side up ; in the morning turn down covers again with the can-tightener, wrap well in paper, tying it on to exclude all light, label — the gummed labels that can be purchased in book form ready to cut and use are very convenient — and place in fruit closet or cel- lar. Where one can have a small room in cellar, with one or more windows, place shelves around the sides on which to put stone jars of pickles, preserves, jam, etc. It is nice to make in one corner a fruit closet with a door, and shelves arranged in heights to fit one and two-quart cans andjelly glasses ; then each shelf or part of shelf Oan be labeled with the fruit orjelly placed upon it. Have in upper part of door a small piece of window wire put in, or two or three augur boles made to admit the air. In lieu of this closet many bury cans 148 CANNIXG FRUITS. in boxes of sand. Light injures all fruits, but especially strawber- ries. The place should be dry and dark and cool, but where there is fresh air ; if too warm the fruit will spoil, as heat makes it fer- ment and dampness causes mold. Cans should be examined two or three days after filling, and if syrup leaks out from the rim they should be unsealed, the fruit thoroughly cooked and kept for jam or jelly, as it will have lost the delicacy of color and flavor so desirable in canned fruits. When canning a quantity of fruit, after removing the first lot of cans from the pan of hot water the water must be made tepid before setting in the remaining cans, then heated gradually to boiling again and kept hot until those cans are filled, repeating thus until all are done. If at any time there is not fruit enough to fill a can it may be left standing partly filled in the hot water until more fruit is cooked, then filled and removed like the rest to the hot platter. It is always best to cook a small quantity of fruit, either large or small, at a time (not more than one or two quarts of the large varieties, and two or three of berries) that it may be done evenly. If a large mass is cooked at once that in the bottom will be done sooner than that on top, and if stirred to secure uniformity its shape will be injured. It should also be cooked slowly to preserve the form, and the larger fruits after being put in the syrup must be watched very closely and each piece taken out and placed in can as soon as it be- comes tender, as some pieces will cook in much less" time than oth- ers. In canning berries use as little water as possible, and some can successfully without water. To better preserve the form of fruit many place it in the cans raw, cover with a hot syrup and cook jby placing in a boiler of water. The same object is attained by first steaming the fruit, and when done carefully removing to the boiling syrup a moment or two, then place in cans when steamed tender, or place at once in cans and fill up with hot syrup, testing by pierc- ing with a silver fork. The cold process has also' been successfully tried by good housekeepers, and considering the amount of labor saved is certainly worth an experiment by all. Recipes are given for each method. To clarify sugar for canning break a pound of loaf sugar in small pieces, put on the stove in porcelain-lined or granite ironware vessel with half pint water and well-whisked white of one egg. Have a cup of cold water ready and throw in a little when the siigar begins to rise, skim and let rise thus three times> CANNING FRUITS. 149 skimming until clear, then strain through a flannel bag 'and when cool bottle for use. Scientists claim that cane sugar when added to boiling fruit is converted to grape sugar which has far less sweeten- ing power than cane sugar, and advise housekeepers to sweeten fruits when brought to table for consumption instead of before can- ning. When dissolving sugar for syrup it should be stirred con- stantly to prevent scorching. A good proportion for syrup for can- ning is one pint sugar to one quart water, which is enough for a two- quait can of fruit. The flavor of canned peaches is improved by adding two or three whole peaches or dropping in the center of each can a few of the stones. Many leave the stone attached to one half, and others ■ cook a number of stones with the fruit^then blanch as almonds and put meats in the cans. Peaches are sometimes canned whole, and the clingstone varieties are of course always put up in this way. Before peeling with a knife it is well to rub the fuzz off peaches with a coarse towel. Many parboil quinces before peeling. In preparing grapes it is better not to press the skins too closely,, to avoid the formation of the disagreeable small particles, or what are called " clinkers," in the canned fruit. As the acid is not fully developed until the fruit is thoroughly ripened this may be avoided also by canning before fully ripe. Currants are nice mixed with an equal weight of raspberries, and pears are improved by adding quinces or lemon peel. Equal quantities of quince and apple canned together will taste as if quince entirely. For ordinary family use quart cans are better for peaches and the larger fruits, two-quart cans for toma- tges and other vegetables, and pint cans for berries. Strawberries keep their color best in stone jars; if glass cans are used for them they should be buried in sand. If syrup is left after canning ber- ries it may while thin be flavored with vinegar, boiled a moment and then bottled and corked for a drink mixed with ice-water ; or add the proportion of sugar given in recipes for jellies, allowing for the sugar used in canning, and make into jelly. All skimmings from fruits can be added to the vinegar barrel. If tin cans which are closed with resin or soldering are used, great care should be taken that none drops into the can, as a single drop of resin will often make the whole can bitter. By covering first with a piece of cloth or white paper cut to fit the top, this will be avoided, and wetting this with brandy or alcohol tends to help 150 CANNING FRUITS. preserve the fruit. On opening tin cans remember to pour all the fruit' into an earthen or glass dish. If any part is not used at the time, recook and return to dish, and it will keep for a daj' or two, many of the less perishable fruits longer. Or if put up in self-seal- ing glass cans the fruit or vegetables left over will keep a day or two by simply returning to the cans, screwing on the cover and setting in refrigerator. Wines, cider, shrubs, etc., must be bottled, well corked, sealed, and the bottles placed on their sides in a box of sand or sawdust. To can maple syrup, pour hot into cans or jugs and seal well. Quinces, pears, citrons, watermelon rinds and some of the smaller fruits, such as plums, cherries, currants, etc., harden when put at first into a syrup of their own weight of sugar. These should first be boiled tender in water, or in a very weak syrup, and the rest of the sugar added afterward. Fruits which become soft too readily and fall to pieces may be hardened a little by pouring the hot syrup over the fruit, or strewing part of the sugar over it and letting it stand awhile to draw out the juice; or it may be skimmed out of the syrup after cooking a few minutes, placed in the sun two or three hours, and the boiling syrup poured over it afterward. As many recipes for canning give proportions in pounds, the table of weights and measures in back part of book will be found a conven- ient reference when scales are not at hand. A bushel of peaches makes about twelve or thirteen quarts, and pears almost twice as many as peaches ; a bushel of either blackberries, blueberries or raspberries makes about nineteen quarts, and strawberries about sixteen or seventeen. The above estimates are given from tests, but no really definite rule can be given, as some use more or less syrup in canning, and a great deal depends upon the ripeness of fruits. In opening a can without the can-tightener, as that answers for opening self-sealers if hard to open, insert the point of a thin-bladed pen- knife or other instrument beneath the rubber and push it in towards the neck, which lets in the air, and the top can then be readily un- screwed. When not in use the rubber rings may be left in, not on, cans, but the tops should not he screwed on, as the cans will become musty if kept closed. Keep the covers (best place also for rubbers) in a box or basket near the cans. Those who use tin cans advise throwing them away after the second year, as the fruit acids dam- age the tin. All cans, jars or bottles, should be carefull)' washed ,ag soon Afi emptied, taking care that the etoppers and covers CANNING FEUITS. 151 have their share of attention. It is well to put soda or ammonia into the jars or b(jttles, fill up with water, and let stand an hour, putting the stoppers or covers into a bowl to soak in the same way. Then pour out and scald nicely, but not with boiling water, as that cracks the "polished surface inside; wipe dry, set in pthe sun or wind to air, and then set away carefully. It is often difficult to remove the tops of glass jars when screwed on, on ' account of t^ slippery n^tjare of the glass. The holder represented in the cut will be understood at a glance. It clasps and holds the jar without danger of breaking it. The following table gives the time required for cooking and the quantity of sugar to ii^e quart for the various kinds of fruit. By observing these rules and the general directions given above any fruit may be successfully canned. However, for convenience, a number of valuable recipes are appended. fruit. Barilett pears, halved ...... 20 min Blackberries 6 " Blueberrriea 5 " Cherries 5 '* Gooseberries 8 " Peaches 8 " Peaches, whole 15 " Pie-plant, sliced 10 " Pine-apples, sliced 15 " Plums 10 " Time for Quant, b iling sugar to qt. 6oz 6 " 5 " 6 " 8 " 4 " 4 " 8 " 6 " 10 " Time for boiling fruit. Quinces, sliced SO min. Raspberries 6 " Ripe Currants 6 " Siberian crab-apples 25 " Small sour pears, whole ... 30 " Sour apples, quartered 10 •' Strawberries 8 •• Tomntoes 30 " Whortleberries 5 " Wild Grapes 10 " Quant, sugar to qt. 10 oz. 4 " none. 5 " A quart of stemmed currants or berries by measure weighs one aijd a quarter pounds. Canned Berries. — Select those the skins of which have not been broken, or the juice will darken the syrup ; fill cans compactly, set in kettle of cold water with a cloth beneath them, over an even heat ; when sufficiently heated pour over the berries a syrup of white sugar dissolved in boiling water, cover the cans closely to retain heat on the top berries. To insure full cans when cold, have extra cans of berries heated in like manner to supply the shrinkage. If the fruit swims pour off surplus syrup, fill with hot fruit, and seal up as soon as fruit on top tis thoroughly scalded. In using this or any of the following recipes refer to the preface above for general directions. , Canned JBerries. — Pick out stems or hulls if any — if gathered carefully the berries will not need washing, put in porcelain kettle on stove, adding a scant cup water to prevent burning at first. 152 CANNED FRUITS. When they come to a boil, skim well, take off all surplus juice, keep- ing it for jelly, add sugaj to taste (for pies it may be omitted), or a half pound sugar to each pound fruit, let boil five minutes, fill in glass, stone, or tin_ cans, using a small strainer for dipping berries so that the quantity of juice put up may be reg- Himdie strainer. ulatcd, filHug lu thc julcc with dipper. The strainer if of size to fit in cans may be set into them and syrup poured through instead of using the cheesecloth strainer described. Seal with putty unless self-sealers are used. This rule applies to all berries and small fruits. Canned Blaclcberries. (Without water.) — Place fruit in preserv- ing kettle, sweeten as for eating, or ade^feugar accor^pg to above table, let stand on back of stove until dissolved, then araw gradu- ally to the front, keep at boiling point long enough to thoroughly cook the fruit, skimming well, and can as previously directed. AU berries may be put iip in this way, blueberries requiring less sugar than other varieties, and some can Peaches aftd Pears thus. Canned Cherries. — Boil moderately five minutes the propor- tion of six ounces sugar to each quart stoned cherries ; or make a syrup of one pint water and three pounds sugar, add cherries and cook as above. Can as in general directions. Canned Crai-Apples. — To each pound fruit allow half pound sugar, and a pint water to three pounds sugar. When the syrup is boiling hot drop in the apples. They will cook very quickly. Or better, steam till tender, place in syrup a moment, then fill cans with fruit and fill up with syrup. Canned Currants. — Look them over carefully, stem and weigh, allowing a pound sugar to every one of fruit ; put in kettle, cover, and leave to heat slowly and stew gently for twenty or* thirty min- utes, then add the sugar, and shake the kettle occasionally to make it mix with the fruit ; do not allow it to boil, but keep as hot as pos- sible until the sugar is dissolved, then pour it in cans and secure the covers at once. White currants are beautiful preserved in this way. Canned Gooseberries. — Cut off tops and stems and cook the berries in water until white, but not enough to break them ; put into cans with as little water as possible, fill up the can with boiling water and seal ; when opened pour off water and cook like fresh berries. Or put berries into wide-mouthed bottles, cork or put on covers, and set in vessel of cold water on the stove until it boils. Do C not boil long enough to break the berries. Take usual precautions in sealing. Will keep a year in a dry place. Canned Gooseberries. — Prepare and place in a large pan, poiir boiling water over them, let stand until cold ; fill jars as full as you CANNED FI^TS. 155 can-, pour boiling water over them, be sure it covers the berries, then seal. You will find berries as solid as when first gathered. Canned Orapes. — Pick grapes off stems, wash in cold water and squeeze the pulps into an earthen dish or preserving kettle, throwing skins into another. Boil skins with a very little water until tender, and pulps until seeds separate, then strain through a colander (to remove seeds) into dish with the skins. Add sugar to taste, or half as much sugar as fruit, stew and can as other fruits. To can Green Grapes halve them, extract the seeds with a small knife, sweeten, cook as above, and can. Canned Peaches. (With vinegar.) — Pour boiling water over one peck of large clings'tone peaches to remove the fuzz ; make a syrup of three pounds sugar and one pint vinegar, using a little water if required to cover the peaches ; cook until pretty soft, and can as usual. Canned Peaches. — Have one porcelain kettle with boiling water and another with a .syrup made sweet enough with white sugar for the peaches, well skimmed, or clarified according to directions in preface ; pare, halve, and drop the peaches into the boiling water, let remain until a silver fork will pierce them, lift them out with a wire spoon, fill can, pour in all the boiling syrup the can will hold, and seal immediately. Continue in this way, preparing and sealing only one can at a time, until done. Or, rich proportions for the same recipe are seven pounds sugar and seven gills boiling water for the syrup, sweetenipg the water in which peaches are cooked, using two pounds sugar to three quarts water. Boil down the water in the first kettle w'itrlthe syrup if any is left ; if not, add more sugar and quite a nice mariiialade will result. This manner of canning peaches has been thoroughly tested, and is pronounced by the experienced the best of all methods. Canned Peaches. — When wanted extra nice for prize competi- tion, or ifor use on " state occasions," select with great care fruit of uniform size and shape and all perfect. Peel with a thin sharp sil- ver fruit knife, which does not discolor, dropping as soon as pared into an earthen vessel of water to prevent the air from darkening them. As soon as fruit enough for one can is pared put up by lay- ing piece by piece in the can, tiarning the inside of halves from which stones were removed, outward, which gives a handsome ap- pearance, and fill up with syrup as clear as crystal, placing the cheese-cloth strainer over the filler. Screw on covers without the rubbers, stand cans in wash-boiler on slab or a board perforated with holes, or a folded towel with a towel between them (some use straw or hay), fill up with cold water to within two or three inches of top of cans, gradually bring to a boil and boil fifteen minutes. Draw to back of stove to let steam pass off, roll the hand in a towel, lift cans 154 CANUED FRUITS. out and place on hot platter. Tak§ off covers and let o.ut air bubbles ■with a knife, as directed in preface. The fruit will settle some and the contents of one or two cans will be needed to fill up the others ; prepare for this purpose nearly a fourth more cans. Fill up, put on rubbers, seal and put away according to previous directions. The same process may be used for canning all kinds of fruit. Canned Peaches,. — Prepare peaches and weigh out half a pound best loaf sUgar to each pound fruit. Sprinkle a little sugar in a deep earthen bowl, put in a layer of peaches, thea one of sugar, and so alternate until closely packed, covering top with sugar; cover lightly and let stand ten or twelve hours. Drain juice off into pre- serving kettle, let come to a boil, put in peaches, and as fast as pieces swell sufficiently take out with silver fork and place in air- tight glass jar. When filled pour the Doiling syrup over, filling to top and seal at once. Peaches and other fruits prepared in this way have been kept three or fouf years. ' Canned Peaches. (Cold) — Pare and halve peaches and pa,ck closely as possible in cans without sugar, and pour in enough cold water to fill to brim. Let stand long enough for water to soak into all crevices — six hours or so — then let out air bubbles with a silver knife, fill up again with cold water and seal. Canned thus, peaches retain all their freshness and flavqr. A cold syrup may be used instead of water if preferred, but peaches taste most natural without sweetening. Can pears same way. Canned Peaches. (Steamed.) — After peeling, seed and place in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, first laying a cloth in bot- tom of steamer ; fill about half full of fruit, cover tightly, make a syrup in a porcelain kettle for fruit alone, let the fijjiit steam until it can be easily pierced with a silver fork, drop gently for a moment into the hot syrup, place in the cans, fill, cover, and seal. The above recipe is for canning a few at a time. This recipe, applies equally well to pears. Canned Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed ; make a syrup of a pint granulated sugar to a quart water (enough for two quart-cans) place on stove in porcelain kettle and when syrup boils, skim, and drop in enough fruit (two quarts halved peaches) for a one-quart can ; watch closely, test and can as in general directions. Add more peaches to the hot syrup for next can, and repeat the operation. If there are more peaches than will fill the can, place them in another can and keep hot until more are ready, and so on until all are canned. Apples may be canned in the same manner. Canned Pears. — Prepare and can precisely like peaches in pre- ceding recipes except that they require longer cooking. "When done they are easily pierced with a silver fork. Some add a half pint peeled and quartered quinces to every two.quarts halved peare ; cook CANNED FRUITS. 155 quinces fifteen minutes before adding pears. More quinces may be added, but the above is an excellent proportion for Pears with Quinces. *^ , ■ Canned Pie Plant. — Cut pie plant in pieces two inches long, put over a slow fire with its weight in sugar ; when sugar is dis- solved let boil slowly until clear, but do not cook long enough to become dark colored. Put up in air-tight cans. Canned Pie Plant. (Cold) — Skin and cut as for pie, fill glass cans full as possible, shaking down while packing, then fill up with pure fresh cold water, let stand a little while and expel the air, add more water, then screw on covers. No cooking or heating. Will keep perfectly, and fruit will be as nice and fresh when opened as if just brought from garden. Canned Pine-apple. — Peel and slice, or pick to pieces with silver fork, make syrup in proportion of three-fourths pound best white granulated sugar and one cup water to each pound fruit, boil five minutes, skim or strain, add the fruit and let it boil (cook- ing long discolors it) ; have can hot, fill and seal up as soon as pos- sible. Or, peel and grate on coarse grater, rejecting cores ; using above proportions, put in an earthen vessel sprinkled with sugar, first a layer of fruit, then a layer of sugar, thus alternating until all is used. Cover, let stand overnight, and in the morning bring to a boil, boil one minute and can immediately. Canned Pine-apple. — Pare and be careful to cut out the eyes, chop fine, weigh, and add to it same weight of sugar ; mix thor- oughly, let stand twenty-four hours and (without cooking) fill cans full and seal tight. Look at them in about two weeks, and if there are signs of working, pour into a kettle, heat through and put back into cans. Canned Plums. — Wash and put whole into a syrup made in the proportion of a pint water and a pound sugar to^ every two pounds fruit; boil eight minutes, , can, 'and seal immediately. If pricked with a fork before placing in syrup they will be less liable to burst. Cherries, damsons, and green gages are canned in same way. The large white plums must lie skinned by using the dipping process as for peaches. Canned Plums. — Wipe good sound fruit with a cloth and place carefully in cans ; pour boiling hot water over them and seal while hot. Grapes put up in same way are nice for pies.- Canned Quinces. — Pare and quarter, the fruit, and take out all the cores and the hard place around them. Boil the fruit in clear water until tender, then spread on towels to dry. For one pound fruit allow half pound sugar and one pint water for three pounds sugar. When syrup is boiling hot put in fruit, and let it cook very 156 CANNED FRUITS. slowly; or, set back on the stove so that it hardly cooks at all, and keep on for an hour or more, if you can without its cooking to pieces — as the longer it cooks, the brighter red color it will be. Put it in jars, and strain the syrup over it, as with other fruits. Can ap- ples or pears at same time and add to them when first put on a half pint quinces (and juice) cooked in syrup as above half an hour. Canned Strawberries. — Fill glass cans with fresh, whole straw- berries, alternating layers of berries and sugar, in the proportion of half pound sugar to pound berries ; lay covers on lightly, stand in wash-boiler and proceed as in third recipe for peaches. Great care must be taken to keepHhe berries whole and round ; as the cans cool invert them occasionally to prevent the fruit from forming in a mass at one end. Damsons may be put up in same way, cooking until soft but not broken. Strawberries are very nice put up as peaches in fourth recipe. Canned Strawberries. — For every quart fresh strawberries take one coffee-cup white sugar, add a tablespoon or two of water if there is no juice in the bottom, to prevent burning before the heat brings out the juice ; as soon as fruit boils add the sugar, and stir gently for a few minutes until it boils up again, and can immediately. Or make a syrup of one pound sugar and. as little water as possible, add three pounds berries and cook slowly for twenty minutes. The color and flavor of the strawberries depend upon gentle cooking. Cherries and Oooseberries are nice canned same way. It is better not to cook any more fruit than can be put into one glass fruit-jar. Usually a few spoonfuls syrup will be left with which to begin the next can. Another method is to stem the largest, finest ber- ries obta,inable, put into cans, giving them a shake> occasionally while filling to settle them, and fill in with a rich syrup, using only just enough water to dissolve sugar, first boiling it ten minutes, then seal. Strawberries are considered difficult to keep, but there need be no trouble if the fruit is fresh, closed air-tight in glass, tod kept as directed in general directions for canning fruits. Canned Strawberries. — Put four- pounds white sugar in a ket- tle, add a cup cold water, let boil till perfectly clear, then add four quarts nice berries. Boil ten cans ; keep in a cool, dry, dark place. If on Lx 9Mi' opening there is a leathery mold on top, care- ^'^^"- fully remove every particle of it and the catsup will not be injured. To prevent this molding some do not fill the bottles quite to the top with catsup, but fill up with hot vinegar. If there are white specks of mold all through the catsup it is spoiled. If on opening and using a part there is danger that the rest may sour, scald, and if too thick add vinegar. Sauces should always be made with great care in a pan set in hot water, having the sauce- pan bright and clean if a delicate flavor is desired, especially if the sauce is drawn butter ; or the custard-kettle will be found conven- ient, as the stock or other foundation may first be heated quickly by putting the inner kettle on the stove, and when other ingredients are added and there is danger of burning place again in the outer ket- tle made ready with boiling water. Butter and those sauces con- taining eggs should never boil. Wooden spoons or paddles must be used for stirring. A set of pad- ^^^^^^-»^^n^^^^^^^ dies of difierent sizes will be found ^^^^^"'^^'Is^Hffl^^^^H^r convenient for stirring sauces, gravies, siut.iu. mushes, and many other dishes, and will not scratch or mar the kettle or pan. Wlien necessary to scrape down the sides of kettle CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 161 in which catsup or other mixtures of like character are heing cooked, an artist's spatula will be found the best utensil and should be pro- Tided in every kitchen rather than destroy the temper of sharpened knives by heat. The pulp of fruits is used for the foundation of all catsups and wonderfully retains the' flavor, notwithstanding all the ingredients added. Use a fine wire sieve or strainer in their prepara- tion the extension ExtonBion strainer. strainer is the most convenient — and a good rule is to allow for every quart of the juicy pulp one pound sugar, two blades mace, three of cinnamon, one teaspoon each whole cloves and pepper corns ; boil all down one-third, then skim out spices, add sugar, boil till thick, reduce to a proper consistency with vinegar, and bottle for use. This applies to cherries, plums, grapes, and all kinds of berries. The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the va- rious viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that they may harmonize and blend with them perfectly, and in serving do not pour over but around the meat. Sauces should possess a decided character, and whether sharp or sweet, savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner, al- though, of course, not se much flavored as to make them too piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. Brown sauces, generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as white sauces, and it is well to bear in mind that when intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, they should be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, etc., browned flour may be properly emplpyed. The caramel coloring answers very well for sauces and gravies-, but when they can be made to look brown by using browned flour, catsup, tomatoes, or any color sauce, it is far preferable. As, however, in cooking so much depends upon appear- ance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the caramel. When no browning is at hand to heighten the color of sauce, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire ; 11 162 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavor. Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot, and there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as from their being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. The iain marie will be found almost indispensable for this purpose. This is a large open vessel kept filled with hot (not boiling) water at the back of the stove or range or in some warm place. In this several stew- pans, or large tin cups with covers and hand- les, are fitted which are intended to hold all the cooked dishes that are to be kept hot until I the rest of the dinner is ready to serve. When a dinner is delayed, there is no better way of keeping all dishes hot, and preserving their flavor. If a iain marie is not among the cooking utensils a large dripping-pan of hot water will be found a very good substitute, or lay two or three bricks on back of stove or range on which to set sauces, vegetables, etc., until ready to serve. Those sauces of which cream or eggs form a component part should be well stirred as soon as these ingredients are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil, as they would instantly curdle.. White pepper is a much nicer seasoning than black for sauces and all fine cooking, as it does not color and has not so pungent a flavor. An excellent thickening for soups, sauces and gravies is prepared as follows : Bring butter just to the boiling point in a small stewpan, dredge in flour, stirring together until well cooked. This, when not cooked brown, is "White Roux," and when browned, "Brown Roux." Thin this with a part of the soup, sauce or gravy, and add it to the whole, stirring thoroughlj^. The flour may be browned before using if intended for brown gravies or sauces. A richer thickening is made in the proportion of the yolks of three eggs to eight tablespoons milk or cream. Beat the yolks, add the milk and strain through a fine sieve. When adding to the sauce it must be stirred during the whole time or the eggs wiU cur- dle, and the mixture should only just simmer, not boil. If sauce is lumpy after adding thickening rub again through a sieve. Melted butter or American Cooking Oil may be used in place of oil in &U CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 163 recipes in which the latter is named. Sauces may also be thick- ened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, etc. ; the latter will be found far preferable to ordinary flour for white sauces. Milk or water may be used instead of stock in sauces, but the latter is better, giving a finer flavor, though milk is richer. When any green coloring is used if lemon juice is to be added it should not be put in until just before sending to table. Any flavored vinegar pre- ferred may be used instead of the plain. An English salt sold by most grocers is best for seasoning sauces and all cooking, giving a more delicate flavor, with none of the fishy taste found so objectionable in most salt. Where sieve is to be used in niaking sauces, use the* puree sieve. Herbs for seasoning are usually dried dur- ing liie summer. The best kinds are sage, thyme, sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay leaves, cloves, mace, celery seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven first mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or in a sunny spot in the yard, all needed can generally be raised. Gather and dry as follows : Parsley and tarragon should be dried in June and July, just before flowering ; mint in June and July ; thyme, marjoram and savory in July and August ; basil and sage in August and September ; all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. Mint, when used in recipes, usually means "spearmint" or "green mint," though pennyroyal and peppermint are of the same family. The young leaves of from one to six inches in length are the parts used. It grows on any good garden soil, but comes forward earlier in 'a warm, sunny spot. It is propagated by cuttings or dividing the roots of old plants in the spring, is very prolific, and ought to find a place in every garden. Those who have conservatories should keep a root in pots, to use with spring lamb before the leaves would^ap- pear in the open air. Mint leaves for drying should be cut from the stalks just before the plant blossoms, and spread out thinly in some dry, shady place, where they can dry slowly. When dry, put up in paper bags and keep in a dry place until wanted. Celery seed is a very nice addition to the flavoring of sauces, and may be used in- stead of the fresh celery when the latter is out of season. Pickled 1-64 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. nasturtium seed, for which a recipe is given under Pickles, will be found a good substitute for capers and is often used. Gherkins, (small cucumber pickles) cut in small pieces, are also used instead of capers when the latter are not obtainable. When drawn butter is used in the composition of sauce to which lemon juice or vinegar is to be added, always make it with water, never with milk, as the combination of the latter with the acid would be most unwhole- some. The common practice of preparing mustard for the table with vinegar, or still more, with ioiling water, materially checks the development of those peculiar principles on which its pungency or strength almost entirely depends, and cold water may cause it to ferment. It should therefore be mixed with water that has been boiled and cooled to lukewarm. Put the mustard in a cup with a small pinch of salt and mix with it very gradually sufficient water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix well, rubbing the lumps down with the back of a spoon until smooth, and do not add flavoring until this paste is made. ^Mustard is much better freshly made, and only a small quantity should be mixed at once. Barberry Catsup. — Three quarts barberries stewed and strained, four quarts cranberries, one cup raisins, a large quince and four small onions, all stewed with a quart of water and strained. Mix these ingredients with the barberries and add half cup vinegar, three-fourths cup salt, two cups sugar, one dessert-spoon each ground clove and ground allspice, two talilespoons each black pep- per and celery seed, and one of ground mustard, one teaspoon each cayenne, cinnamon and ginger, and a nutmeg. Let the whole boil one minute ; if too thick add vinegar or water, ^^'ith the quantities given about three quarts of catsup can be made. Cherry Catsup. — One pii\t pure cherry juice, half pound sugar, teaspoon each ground cloves and cinnamon. Boil to thick syrup andj bottle. Cucumher Catsup. — Peel, seed and grate on coarse grater, one dozen large green cucumbers ; .put the ])ulp in a large towel and wring out all moisture that can be extracted ; peel and grate or chop fine four large onious and mix with the grated cucumber, adding one ounce celery seed, heaping teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon salt, half pint salad oil or American Cooking Oil, and sufficient vin- egar to make as thin as ordinary catsuji. When all are thoroughly CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 165 blended put into wide-mouthed glass jars, put a teaspoon oil in top of each jar and seal air-tight; or peel and chop three dozen cucum- bers and. eighteen onions very fine ; sprinkle over them three-fourths pint table salt, put the whole in a sieve and let drain overnight ; add a cup mustard seed, half cup ground black pepper, mix well, and cover with good cider vinegar. Currant Catsup. — Four pounds fully-ripe currants, one and a half pounds .sugar, tablespoon ground _cinnamon, teaspoon each salt, ground cloves and pepper, pint vinegar ; stew currants and sugar until quite thick, add other ingredients and bottle for use ; or, take juice of five pounds currants, three pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, two tablespoons ground cinnamon, one each of cloves, allspice and black pepper, one grated, nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Cook one-half hour. Elder})erry Catsup. — Pick from the stalk as many ripe elder- berries as are wanted to put down, put into a stone jar with enough strong vinegar to cover them, bake in a hot oven three hours and strain while hot. Boil the liquor thus obtained with cloves, mace, peppercorns and four or five shallots, enough to give a considerable flavor ; taste, and when flavored as liked, put in one-half pound of the best anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir and boil only until dissolved ; bottle in pint bottles and cork carefully, sealing by dip- ping corks in hot sealing-wax. Orape Catsup. — Boil, and strain five pounds grapes through a colander, add to the juice one pint vinegar, two and a half pounds sugar, one tablespoon each ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pep- per, and a half tablespoon salt. Boil again until a little thick, bottle and seal. Gooseberry Catsup. — Nine pounds gooseberries, five pounds .sugar, one quart vinegar, three tablespoons cinnamon, one and a half each of allspice and cloves ; the gooseberries should be nearly or quite ripe. Take off blossoms, wash and put them into a porcelain kettle, mash thoroughly, scald and put through the colander, add sugar and spices, boil fifteen minutes and add the vinegar cold ; bot- tle immediately before it cools. Ripe Grapes prepared by same rule make an excellent catsup. Lemon Catsup. — One pound and a quarter of salt, quarter of a pound of ground mustard, one ounce each of mace, nutmeg, cayenne and allspice, one gallon of cider vinegar, eight or nine garlic cloves, fifteen large lemons ; slice the lemons, add the other ingredients, let simmer from twenty to thirty minutes, place in a covered jar, stir every day for seven or eight weeks, strain, bottle, cork and seal. Liver Catsup. — Rub a very fresh beef liver thoroughly with rolled salt and place it in a vessel that will not crush it ; turn and 166 SAUCES AND CATSUPS. nib thoroughly for ten days, then mince into small dice and boil in a gallon of water closely covered until reduced to three quarts ; strain through a sieve and let settle till next day ; add one ounce each gin- ger and allspice and two ounces whole black pepper, and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. When cold bottle and keep well corked- Oyster Catsup. — Procure oysters very fresh and open sufficient to fill pint measure ; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with one pint good cider, strain the'oysters and put them in a mortar with a tablespoon salt, one drachm cayenne, andtwo drachms pounded mace ; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded ; boil it. again five minutes,, and skim well ; rub the whole through a sieve, aitd when cold, bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed. Pepper Catsup. — Take four dozen large red pepper-pods, three quarts vinegar, three tablespoons grated horse-radish, five onions and one clove garlic. Boil until soft, and strain through a sieve. Then add two tablespoons each of black pepper, allspice, mace, cloves and salt. Boil again ten minutes ; then bottle. Some add one quart tomatoes and one cup sugar. Plum Catsup. — To three pounds fruit take one and three- fourths pounds sugar, one tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon and pepper, and a very little salt ; scald and put plums through the sieve then add sugar and spices and boil to right consistency. Tomato Catsup. — Half bushel ripe tomatoes, four ounces salt, three ounces ground black pepper, one ounce cinnamon, half ounce ground cloves, one drachm cayenne pepper, one gallon vinegar ; slice the tomatoes and stew in their own liquor until soft, and rub through a sieve fine enough to retain the seeds ; boil the pulp and juice down to the consistency of apple-butter (very thick), stirring steadily all the time to prevent burning ; then add the vinegar with which a small cup sugar and the apices have been mixed, boil up twice, re- move from fire, let cool and bottle. Those who like the flavor of onions may add aboufhalf a dozen medium sized ones, peeled and- sliced, fifteen minutes before the vinegar and spices are put in: Tomato Catsup. — Take one bushel firm ripe tomatoes, wipe them ofi" nicely with a damp cloth, cut out the cores, and put them in a poicelain-lined iron kettle or a genuine bell-metal one. Place over the fire, and pour over them about Ijhree pints water, throw in two large handfuls peach leaves, with ten or twelve onions or shal- lots cut fine. Boil until the tomatoes are done, which will take about two houro ; then strain through a coarse-mesh sieve, pour the liquid back again into the boiling kettle and add htilf a gallon good strong cider vinegar: have ready two ounces ground spice, two ounces ground black pepper, two ounces mustard (either ground or in the seed, as you prefer), one ounce ground cloves, two grated nut- CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 167 megs, two pounds light brown sugar, and one pint salt ; mix these ingredients well together before putting in the boiler ; then boil two hours, stirring continually to prevent burning. If you like the cat- sup "hot," add cayenne pepper to your taste. When cool, fill bot- tles (reeded bottles are the nicest, they can be procured at the house furnisher's and a set will last some time ; they look better than ones of all sizes and styles). Cork and seal with bottle-wax so as to ex- clude the air. Keep in a cool, dry piace for future use. ' This recipe is preferred to all others — it has been used for years. It keeps well, and has been pronounced- by competent judges superior to aU others. Tomato Catsup. — Stew and strain four quarts unpared, sliced tomatoes, add two tablespoons each salt, mustard and black pepper and quarter tablespoon cayenne, m6re or less as liked, cup of broWn sugar and pint vinegar. Boil 'to the consistency of cream, watphing carefully to prevent burning, then set on back of stove and add half a tablespoon each of cinnamon and cloves and a pint of currant jel- ly, mixing thoroughly ; can or bottle while hot. Horse-radish fcot- tles or any small, wid.e-niouthed bottles are best for this purpose; seal with corks and dip in sealing wax. This will keep two years. Walnut Catsup. — Procure one hundred walnuts at "the time when you can. run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them into ajar with a handful salt and one quart vinegar ; let them' stand eight days, stirring every day, then drain the liquor off them, add one-fourth ounce each mace, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and whole black peppers, small piece horse-radish, twenty shallots, or onions, and one- fourth pound anchovies, and boil half an hour. It may be strained or not as preferred, and if required a little more vinegar can be added according to taste. Bottle and seal. Almond Sauce. — Blanch and pound sweet almonds and add enough white stock to make it of the consistency of thickened gravy. Pour over boiled mutton-chops. Anchovy /SaMce..-^Bone four anchovies and pound them in a mortar to a paste with one ount!e blitter. Melt a half pint butter and when hot stir in the pounded anchovies and cayenne to taste, sim- mer three or four minutes and if liked add a few drops of lemon juice. A quicker and easier Avay of making this sauce is to stir one and one-half tablespoons anchovy essence into one-half pint drawn butter, add a little lemon juice and seasoning to taste ; boil one min- ute and serve. Less of the essence may be used if thought too strong. ^ Serve with baked fish. Apple -Sauce. — Pare, core and quarter tart apples, throwing into cold water until all are pared, to preserve their whiteness ; put them 168 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. in a saucepan with suflBcient water to moisten them and boil till soft enough to pulp ; beat them, adding a small piece butter, and some like a little sugar and nutmeg. Serve with roast pork, goOse, or duck. May be colored, if desired, with beet root, cochineal, or a little spinach juice. To make Brown Apple Sauce, cook the apples in half pint brown gravy and finish as above, leaving out sugar, and seasoning with cayenne instead of nutmeg. Asparagus Sauce. — Break a bundle of green asparagus in the tender part, wash well and put into boiling salt water, to render green ; when tender take out, put into cold water and drain on a cloth until all moisture is absorbed. Put one tablespoon fresh but- ter in a saucepan with a small bunch parsley and three or four green onions ; lay in the asparagus and fry the whole over a sharp fire five minutes ; add salt, a large lump sugar and four tablespoons white stock and simmer another five minutes ; rub all through a sieve and if not a good color use a little spinach coloring. This sauce should be rather sweet. Bread Sauce. — Put giblets of a fowl with the neck and legs in a saucepan with one onion, twelve whole peppers, one blade mace, salt to taste, and rather more than a pint water ; let simmer'one hour, strain the liquor over three-fourths pound bread crumbs, cover and lea,ve one hour where it will keep warm, then beat up with a fork until nice and smooth; boil three or four minutes, stirring until rather thick, add three tablespoons melted butter or cream, and send to table hot with roast fowl or game. A nice way of ser^dng is to fry coarse crumbs a light brown in tablespoon very hot butter, stir over hot fire two minutes without burning. Cover the breasts of roasted birds with these, and server the sauce poured around the birds, or in a gravy dish. Add the chopped giblets for Oihlet Sauce. Another good bread sauce can be made by placing a sliced onion and six peppercorns in a half pint milk over boiling water until onion is per- fectly soft ; strain it over a half pint grated bread crumbs without crust and leave it covered for an hour ; beat it smooth, add pinch of salt and two tablespoons butter rubbed in a little flour ; add enough sweet cream or milk to make it the proper consistency and boil a few minutes. It must be thin enough to. j)our. , Caper Sauce. — To a pint drawn butter sauce add three table- spoons capers, either whole or chopped once or twice ; a hard boiled egg chopped fine may be added, or just after taking from fire stir in yolk of an egg beaten with teaspoon water. If to be served with fish flavor with teaspoon each lemon juice and essence of anchov}'. Or chop two tablespoons capers and add them to a half pint drawn butter, with piece of lemon, teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and a pinch cayenne ; put on fire and simmer a few minutes ; mix a teaspoon flour with a very little cold water and add to sauce. Mutton Caper Sauce is made as follows : Fifteen minutes before CATSUPS AND SAUCES. I'GO the mutton is done melt two tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir into^t one tablespoon flour ; when thoroughly mixed add half a pint of the liquor in which the mutton is boiling, and half a pint of milk, season with pepper and salt, cook a few minutes, and just before serving (in order that their color may not Ipe lost by standing) add two heaped tablespoons capers. Never let sauce boil after adding capers. Celery Sauce. — Scrape the outside stalks of celery and cut in pieces an inch long, let stand in cold water half an hour, then put . in boiling salted water, enough to cover, and cook until tender ; drain off water and dress with butter, salt, a little mace, and milk or cream, thickened with a little flour. Or make a dressing by adding to half pint milk or cream the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, a bit of butter, a little salt and pepper and grated nutmeg ; bring just to boiling point, pour over stewed celery. Another sauce is made by cutting the tender parts of a head of celery very fine. Pour on water enough to cover them, covei- the saucepan and set where it will sim- mer one hour ; mix two tablespoons flour and four of butter ; when the celery has boiled one hour add to it the butter and flour, one pint milk or cream, season to taste, boil up once and serve with roast duck, or roast or boiled fowl. Chestnut Sauce. — Take one-half pound shelled chestnuts, and •put them into boiling water for a few minutes ; throw into cold water, take off the thin inside skin and put them into a saucepan with a half pint white stock and two strips lemon peel, or a tea- spoon juice, and let them simmer an hour and a half, or until chest- nuts are quite tender. Put the whole through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, add seasoning of cayenne 'and a gill of cream ; let it just simmer, but not boil and keep stirring all the time. Serve very hot and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, two teaspoons butter and one of flour will be required ; melt butter, stir in flour, and when , smooth add to the mixture. If sauce is not perfectly smooth rub again through a sieve. To make Brown Chestnut Sauce take same proportions, using any soup stock, or the broth from the fowl, if boiled, stirring butter and flour over the fire until browned, or adding a teaspoon caramel coloring. Serve either of the above sauces with roast turkey or other roast or boiled fowl. Chili Sauce. — Twelve large ripe tomatoes, three ripe or two green peppers, leaving out half the seeds, two onions, two table- spoons each salt and sugar, one of cinnamon, three cups, vinegar; peel tomatoes and onions, chop separately very -fine, add the finely- chopped peppers with the other ingredients, and'boil one and a half hours. Bottle, and it will keep a long time. Stone jugs are better than glass cans. One quart of canned tomatoes may be used instead of the ripe ones. This chili sauce is excellent and much better and more healthful than catsups. If liked more highly, spiced add one- 170 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. half teaspoon cloves and one-third teaspoon each ginger and nutmeg. A half pint of Worcestershire sauce is sometimes added. , Crab Sauce. — Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away from the shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make a half pint drawn butter, put in the fish and season with salt, pounded mace and cayenne to taste ; let it gradually warm through and sim- mer two minutes. It should not boil. Almost equals lobster sauce and served the same. praiiberry Sauce. — After removing all soft berries, wash thor- oughly, place for about two minutes in scalding water, remove, and to every pound fruit add three-quarters of a pound granulated sugar and a half pint water ; stew together over a moderate but steady fire. Be careful to cover and not to stir the fruit, but occasionally shake the vessel, or apply a gentler heat if in danger of sticking or burning. If attention to these particulars be given, the berries will retain their shape to a considerable extent, which adds greatly to theii appearance on the table. Boil from five to seven minutes, remove from fire, turn into a deep dish, and set aside to cool- If to be kept, they can be put up at once in air-tight jars. Or, for strained sauce, one and a half pounds of fruit should be stewed in one pint water for ten or twelve minutes, or until quite soft, then strain through £. puree or fine wire sieve, and three-quarters pound sugar thoroughly stirred into the pulp thus obtained ; after cooling it is ready for use. Serve with roast turkey, roast pork or game. When to be kept for a long time without sealing more sugar may be added, but its too free use impairs the peculiar cranberry flavor. For dinner-sauce half a pound is more economical, and really preferable to three-quarters as given above. Use a porcelain or granite ironware kettle. Some pre- fer not to add the sugar until the fruit is almost done, thinking this plan makes it more tender, and preserves the color better. Cream Sauce. — Heat one tablespoon butter in a skillet, add a tablespoon flour and stir until perfectly smooth, then add gradually a cup cold milk or cream, let boil up once, season to taste with salt and pepper, and a little mace or lemon juice if wished, and serve. Butter may be omitted when cream is used if thought too rich. This is very nice for vegetables, omelets, croquettes, delicate meats, fish, or sweet breads. Currant Sauce. — Half an hour before venison is done pick over an ounce of dried currants, wash them well, put them over the fire in half pint hot water and boil them fifteen minutes ; then add two heaping tablespoons bread crumbs, one of butter, a palatable season- ing of salt and pepper, and six whole cloves, and boil the sauce gently; just before serving it add a tablespoon currant jelly beaten with a cup water or stock, or gravy from the game. Serve with venison or other game. CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 171 Currant Jelly Sauce. — Three tablespoons butter, one onion, one bay leaf, one sprig celery, two tablespoons vinegar, half cup cur- rant jelly, one tablespoon flour, one pint stock, seasoning. Brown butter and onion, add flour and herbs, then the stock, and simmer twenty minutes. Strain, skim off the fat, add the jelly and stir over the fire until melted ; serve with game. Curry Sauce. — One tablespoon each butter and flour, one tea- spoon curry powder, one large slice of onion, one large cup stock, salt and pepper to taste. Cut the onion fine and brown in the but- ter, add the flour and curry powder, stir one minute, add the stock and season to taste. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve. Good with a boil or saute of fish or meat. Drawn Butter Sauce. — ^Rub two tablespoons butter into half "a tablespoon flour, beating to a cream,adding,if needed,a little salt ; pour on it half a pint boiling water or milk, stirring it one way rapidly, and taking care not to let it quite boil, as boiling makes it oily and Tinfit for use. The boiling may be prevented by cooking in the cus- tard kettle as heretofore suggested, or placing the saucepan in a larger one of boiling water, covering and shaking frequently until it reaches the boiling 4 point. Now pass through a sieve and stir in a tablespoon butter cut in pieces. If necessary io reheat, return to custard kettle. This makes one pint sauce. If Hked acid, a few drops vin- egar or lemon juice may be added just before _______ serving. In the thickening of all sauces, let it 'custard Kettie." be remembered that butter and flour should be well cooked together before the sauce is added, to prevent the flour from tasting uncooked. In butter sauces, however, only enough butter should be used to cook the flour, adding the remainder cut in pieces after the sauce is taken from the fire. This preserves its flavor. An excellent Pickle Sauce is made by adding two tablespoons finely chopped pickled cucumbers to drawn butter sauce prepared as above. Or, make with cream and add boiled cauliflowers cut with vegetable cutter, for CauliHawer Sauce, excellent with boiled fowl. Another good sauce for fowl is the Lemon Sauce, made by adding to the drawn butter sauce the chopped inside of a lemon (without the seeds) and the liver of the fowl chopped fine. A great variety of sauces which are excellent to eat with fish, poultry or boiled meats can be made with the drawn butter sauce by adding different herbs, such as parsley, mint or sweet marjoram. First throw them into boiling water, cut fine, and they are ready to be added, when serve immediately with two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. This makes a nice sauce to serve with baked fish. The chopped inside of a lemon without the seeds, to which the chicken liver has been added, makes a good sauce for boiled chicken. 172 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. Egg Sauce. — Put one cup each water and milk on fire to scald, and when hot stir in tablespoon flour, previously mixed smooth with a very little cold water, add three eggs well beaten and strained, season with salt and peppei, two tablespoons butter and a little white vinegar ; do not let boil after eggs are pUt in ; boil four eggs hard, slice and lay over the dish ; a little nutmeg and a few thin slices of lemon are sometimes added ; pour over sauce, and serve with boiled fish. Or, take yolks of two eggs boiled hard and mash with atable- spoon mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoons vinegar and three of salad oil. A tablespoon of catsup improves this for some. Very nice for boiled fish. Or, to a pint drawn butter sauce, without herbs, add four hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Oooseberry Saucz. — Boil one pint green gooseberries in water until quite tender ; strain them, and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan three tablespoons French White Sauce, or veal gravy will do, with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste ; add the pulp from the goose- berries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit. Serve with boiled mackerel. Hollandaise Sauce. — One-half cup broth, milk or water, cup butter, yolks of four eggs, juice of one lemon, a dozen pepper-corns, nutmeg and salt. Boil the broth with the peppercorns, a scrap of broken nutmeg and level teaspoon salt. When flavored strain the broth into another saucepan or tin cup. Put in two-thirds of the butter and the four yolks and beat it with a fork over the fire until it thickens like cream. Then take it off and beat in the rest of the butter in little bits, beating until all is melted. Then squeeze in the lemon juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. The sauce must never fairly boil, only just begin to. It should be cooked in cup set in boiling water. There is a moment, about a minute after set to cook, that the sauce is at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After that a separation or curdling takes place, not very plain to the eye, but that makes the sauce thin and spoils it. Serve with fish, cauli- flower, asparagus, or any vegetable. It is golden yellow, shining and smooth, just thick enough to be taken up on the point of a knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for vegetable dressing. Horse-radish Sauce. — Grate very fine a root of horse-radish, mix two tablespoons of it with a teaspoon salt and four tablespoons cream, stir briskly and add by degrees a fourth tablespoon vinegar. Or, take four tablespoons horse-radish and mix well with one table- spoon each sugar and salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and tw(r tea- spoons made mustard, with sufficient vinegar to give it the consis- tency of cream. Especialljr nice with corned beef, and acceptable ■ffith almost any meat. It is sometimes prepared by adding to two CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 173 tablespoons grated horse-radish one dessert-spoon olive-oil (or melted butter or cream), and one of made mustard. To prepare Horse- radish for Winter^ in the fall mix the quantity wanted in the fol- lowing proportions : A coffee-cup grated horse-radish, two table- spoons white sugar, half teaspoon salt, and a pint and a half cold vinegar. Bottle and seal. Italian Sauce.— One cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy, strained and skimmed), one teaspoon minced onion, two each of minced mushrooms and parsley, juice of one lemon, cayenne and salt to taste. Pour half the juice from the can of mushrooms into the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and simmer together fif- teen minutes. Nice with fried trout or other fish. If fresh mush- rooms are used they should not stand after chopping or they will turn black. Indian Chetney Sauce. — Chop eight ounces sharp sour apples, pared, cored and cut in small square pieces, and add to them eight ounces each tomatoes, salt, brown sugar and stoned raisins, four ounces each cayenne and powdered ginger, two ounces each garlic and shal- lots, three quarts vinegar, one quart lemon juice ; mix the whole well together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation ; strain, but do not squeeze it dry ; store it away in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an ex- cellent sauce for meat or fish. Some prefer to cook the apples in the vinegar before adding other ingredients. leamington Sauce. — Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound theln in a mortar to a pulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to each quart walnut-liquor allow three quarts vinegar, one pint soy, one ounce cayenne, tow ounces shallots, three-fourth ounce garlic, and half pint cooking wine. Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed. This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. The soy spoken of above is a sauce frequently made use of for fish and is manufactured by both the Japanese and Chinese, that of the for- mer being the best. This article is sometimes adulterated but when genuine it is of an agreeable flavor, thick, and of a clear brown color. Lemon Sauce. — Put three-fourths pint cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with one lemon-peel, one-half teaspoon whole white pepper, and a sprig of lemon thyme, and let these infuse 174 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. for half an hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a nice flavor of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of three tablespoons of butter and one of flour; stir this well in, and put in juice of one lemon at the moment of serving ; mix one cup white stock with the cream, and add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together. Milk may- be used instead of cream, with another tablespoon flour. An excel- lent sauce for fowls, fricassees, etc. The recipe makes enough for two fowls. Or, a simple method is to cut three slices lemon into very small dice, add to drawn butter, let boil up once and serve. Liver and Lemon Sauce. — Wash the liver of a fowl and let it boil a few minutes ; peel one lemon very thin, reserve the white part and pips and cut it into very small slices ; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very fine ; add these ingredients to a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil lest the butter should oil. Serve with poultry. Liver and Parsley Sauce. — Wash and score the liver of a fowl, boil it for a few minutes and mince it very fine ; scald a small bunch of parsley of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon ; add this with the minced liver to a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, let it just boil and serve with fowl. Lobster Sauce. — Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable in order to render this sauce as good as it ought" to be. Pick the meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces ; put the spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mor- tar with half ounce butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub it through ahair-sieve,and cover up till wanted. Make three-fourths pint of drawn butter, and add one tablespoon anchovy sauce, one-half ounce butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace if liked, and two or three tablespoons cream. Mix well before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the color would im- mediately be spoiled ; for it should be remembered that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed through a sieve, without butter) should be saved to garnish with ; but as the goodness, flavor, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on having, a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for gar- nishing the better. This makes sufficient to serve with a small ■ turbot, a brill or salmon for six persons. For a very small lobster, use only a half pint drawn butter and season as above. The re- mains 01 a cold lobster may with a little care be converted into a very good sauce. Or, break the shell of the lobster into small CATSUPS ANB SAUCES. 175 pieces ; pour over them one pint water or veal stock, add a pinch of salt and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced one-half. Mix two ounces butter with an ounce flour, strain the liquid upon it and stir all over the fire until the mixture thickens ; do not let it boil. Add two tablespoons of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Improved by a tablespoon of lobster butter if at hand. An economical sauce may be made by chopping the meat of the tail and claws of a good-sized lobster into pieces (not too small). Half an hour before dinner, make half a pint of drawn butter, add the chopped lobster, a pinch of coral, another of cayenne, and a little salt. Mayonnaise Sauce. — Work the yolks of two raw eggs to a smooth paste and add two salt-spoons salt, half a salt-spoon cay- enne, a salt-spoon dry mustard and a teaspoon olive oil ; mix these ingredients thoroughly and add the strained juice of half a lemon ; take the remainder of half a pint olive oil and add it gradually, a tea- spoon at a time, and every fifth teaspoon add a few drops of lemon juice until you have used two lemons and the half pint oil. Or, rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs with the yolk of one raw egg to a smooth paste ; add a heaping teaspoon salt, two salt-spoons white pepper, and two salt-spoons made mustard ; mix thoroughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture alternating with a tea- spoon of tarragon vinegar until you have used three tablespoons vinegar. Should the sauce appear too thick add a wineglass of cream gradually. In mixing the oil and lemon juice or vinegar, some put in only a few drops at a time, alternately, to insure against curdling. For a Fish Mayonnaise this sauce may be colored with lobster-spawn, pounded ; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little parsley juice may be used to add to its appearance. Mint Sauce. — Take fresh young mint, strip leaves from stems, wash, drain on a sieve, or dry them on a cloth ; chop very fine, put in a sauce-tureen, and to three heaped tablespoons mint add two of pounded sugar ; let remain a few minutes well mixed together, and pour over it gradually six tablespoons of good vinegar. If members of the, family like the flavor but not the substance of the mint, the sauce may be strained after it has stood for two or three hours, pressing it well to extract all the flavor. It is better to make the sauce two or three hours before dinner, so that the vinegar may be impregnated with the mint. Serve with either boiled or roast lamb. The addition of three or four tablespoons of the liquor from the meat is an improvement. This makes sufiicient sauce for a three or four-pound joint. When green mint is scarce and not obtainable,, mint vinegar may be substituted for it and will be found acceptable- in early spring. Olive Sauce.— Two dozen queen olives, one pint rich stock, the juice of one lemon, two tablespoons salad oil, one of flour, salt, pep- 176 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. per, a small slice of onion. Let the olives stand in hot water half an hour to extract the salt, then place in cold water five minutes. Put onion and oil in stewpan, and as soon as the onion hegins to color add flour. Stir until smooth, and add stock. Set back where it will simmer. Carefully stone the olives by paring them round in ribbons so that they may recover their shape when stoned. Put them in the sauce, add seasoning, and simmer twenty minutes. Skim carefully and serve. If sauce is liked thin, half the amount of flour given can be used. This saiice is for roast duck and game. Onion Sauce. — Peel nine large or twelve middling-sized white onions, and put them into water to which a little salt has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain fifteen min- utes. Put in saucepan, cover with water and boil until tender, changing the water, if onions are very strong, when they have boiled fifteen minutes. Drain thoroughly, chop and rub through sieve. Make a pint drawn butter, and when it boils put in the onions, sea- son with salt, stir till it simmers and the sauce will be ready to serve. If directions are carefully followed this White Onion Sauce will be delicious. Serve with roast shoulder of mutton or broiled rabbit. To make this sauce very mild and delicate use Spanish onions which may be obtained from first of September to Christmas. Two or three tablespoons cream added just before serving improves it very much. A knife and sieve or small wire strainer should be kept ex- pressly for preparing onions, that their flavor may not be imparted to other dishes. To make Brown Onion Sauce, slice and fry the onions in butter, add half pint any gravy, simmer until tender, skim off' all fat, season with pepper and salt and put through a sieve, re- heat and serve. When a high flavoring is liked add one tablespoon mushroom catsup. Orange Sauce. — Peel half an orange, removing all the pith ; cut into slices,, and then in fillets ; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes ; drain on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in the saucepan two spoons of demi-glaze, or ten of broth ; and, when boiling, add the orange and a little sugar ; simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and water fowl ; cayenne and mustard may be added if liked. Oyster Sauce. — Strain the liquor from a half pint oysters and add enough milk or water to make one pint ; stir in a half cup but- ter beaten to a cream with two tablespoons flour.- Let this come to a boil, add the oysters and let them boil up once — cooking long hardens them. If wanted really nice the oysters should be bearded. Or add a few drops lemon juice or vinegar, a tablespoon capers, or use a seasoning of cayenne or anchovy sauce. The sauce is richer if cream instead of water is used in making the drawn .butter, but in this case do not add the lemon juice or vinegar. Never allow less CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 177 than six oysters to each person, unless making a large quantity. Serve with fish or boiled poultry. To make Brown Oyster Sauce, use above ingredients, stirring butter and flour together over the fire until a dark brown, and serve with boiled or stewed beefsteak. Parsley Sauce. — Boil two tablespoons parsley slowly in slightly salted water, drain and cut fine, and add it to one-half pint smoothly-made drawn butter, with one-half teaspoon salt and a tablespoon vinegar. Boil up and serve. If sauce is wanted to look green boil the other ingredients together and pour over the scalded and chopped parsley already in the gravy tureen. Stir once or twice and serve with calf's head, boiled fowl, etc. Shrimp Sauce. — Free a pint of shrimps from bits of sea-grass and broken shells, throw them into salted boiling water, and boil them for a few moments, until the shells turn red, then drain them and break off the heads, legs and shells ; the available part is the flesh of the tails. After the shrimp are prepared, put a tablespoon each of butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire and stir them until they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint boiling water, season the sauce with two saltspoons salt and a liberal dust of cayenne, put in the shrimp, and serve the sauce with boiled fish. Garnish the dish with a few whole shrimps. Another method of making this sauce is to add to a pint drawn butter sauce a half can shrimps, flavor with- two tablespoons essence of anchovies or a tea- spoon anchovy paste. At the last moment a few drops lemon juice and a little cayenne may be added. Tartare Sauce. — Yolks two eggs, gill salad oil or melted butter, salt-spoon salt, half a salt-spoon pepper, a tablespoon good cider vinegar, half teaspoon each mustard and sugar, and a tablespoon gherkins. Beat together lightly in a small bowl the vinegar and yolks, add to these, drop by drop, the salad-oil or melted butter, taking care to stir the same way all the time ; when this is done, season the mixture with ■ pepper, salt, and mustard ; add also the gherkins finely chopped (or capers may be substituted), and serve in a gravy boat with boiled salmon or cold meats. Or, mince two small English pickles, one-fourth of an onion, and a few sprigs of parsley together. Add them to three tablespoons mayonnaise sauce and tlie juice of half a lemon. Mix and serve (see mayonnaise sauce). A few tarragon leaves will improve the sauce. This is called the perfection of sauces for fried fish. Tomato Sauce. — Stew ten tomatoes with three cloves, and pep- per and salt, for fifteen minutes (some add a sliced onion and a sprig of parsley), strain through a sieve, put on the stove in a saucepan in which a lump of butter the size of an egg and level tablespoon flour have been well mixed and cooked, stir all until smooth, and if wanted to remove seeds put through a sieve, reheat and serve. 12 178 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. Canned tomatoes may be used as a substitute. Or stew half a dozen tomatoes in a pint stock with a slice of ham cut into dice, a bay- leaf, a blade of mace, three drops pepper sauce and three small pickled onions ; stir the whole over a gentle fire until done, then press them through a sieve, add salt, and put the sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot. French Tomato Sauce. — Cut tomatoes into quarters and put them in saucepan with salt to taste, a good handful of basil, and three or four cloves of garlic ; a little water should be put into the saucepan to prevent the tomatoes catching. When thej' are thor- oughly done turn them out upon a hair sieve and wait till all the water has drained from them. Throw away this water and pass the tomatoes through the sieve ; put the pulp into a saucepan, boil half an hour, and a moderate quantity of black pepper may be added to taste. When the sauce is quite cold put it into wide-mouthed bot- tles, cork tightly and tie up each cork with string or wire ; dip the neck of each- bottle into melted resin and they may then be put away to be used when required. The bottles should be of moderate size, for once opened the sauce will no longer keep good. If before put- ting on the wire the bottles of sauce are placed upright in a large vessel full of cold water and this is put on the fire until the water boils, the preservation will be more certain still, and the sauce will keep good for any length of time. Care must be taken, however, not to remove the bottles from the vessel until the water has become perfectly cold. White Sauce. — Stir one tablespoon each butter and flour together over the fire until smooth, add one pint milk, season with salt and white pepper, and let boil up once. Strain if not perfectly smooth. This is the plain white sauce, so nice served with vegeta- bles, and which is also used by many as the foundation for other sauces instead of the rich drawn butter. Brown Sauce is made same way, stirring the butter and flour over the fire until a dark brown color, and when it is at hand using a pint froth from boiling meat instead of the milk. French 'White Sauce. — As white stock is the foundation of this sauce, it must be .prepared first as follows : Cut up four pounds knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham, put it into a saucepan which has been rubbed with butter, moisten with half pint water and simmer till gravy begins to flow ; then add four quarts water, three carrots, two onions, one head celery, twelve white pepper-corns, a blade of mace, bunch of herbs, tablespoon each butter and salt. Simmer five hours, skim, strain carefully, and the White Stock is ready for use. Consomme is made exactly the same with double the quantity of meat or half the water. For the sauce put one pint stock in the saucepan with a small bunch pars- CATSUPS AND SAUCES. ' 179 ley, two cloves, half bay-leaf, small bunch savory herbs, three or four mushrooms when obtainable, and salt to taste. "When it has boiled enough to extract the flavor from the herbs, etc., strain and boil up quickly again until it is nearly half reduced. Mix one table- spoon arrowroot smoothly with a pint cream and simmer gently five minutes over slow fire ; add to it the reduced stock, and if stock is thick continue to simmer slowly for ten minutes, but if thin, stir over brisk fire till it thickens. This is the well known Bechamel Sauce, and is the foundation of many others, especially white sauces. Many make it thick, as it is easily thinned with cream or white stock. To make Brown Stock or Sauce stir three-fourths tablespoon flour with a tablespoon butter over the fire until a dark brown color and add to white stock. Caper Butter . — Chop one tablespoon capers very fine, rub through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix with a salt-spoon salt, quarter of a spoon pepper, and one ounce cold butter. Put a layer of this butter on a dish, and serve fish on it. Drawn B^dter. — Cut one-fourth pound (or four well-rounded tablespoons) butter up into small pieces, put in saucepan, dredge over a dessert-spoon flour, and add four tablespoons water and a seasoning of salt ; stir it one way constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If the butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of water,' but omit the flour; keep stirring, but do not allow it to boil. Another way of making, which is also used as a sauce, is to mix the flour and water, rubbing down all lumps with a spoon, and put in a saucepan with the water and salt, adding one-halt spoon white vinegar and a very little grated nut- meg. Simmer, not boil, until it thickens. Lohster Butter. — Mix the spawn and coral of a lobster with double the quantity of butter, a little cayenne, and pound in a mor- tar to a paste. May be used in flavoring lobster sauce and garnish- ing or decorating cold salmon, etc. Parsley Butter. — One-fourth pound butter, two dessert-spoons minced p&rsley, the juice of one large lemon and salt and pepper to taste, well worked together. Serve over or around either meat or fish. Caramel Coloring. — Put one cup sugar and two teaspoons water in a saucepan over the fire, stir constantly till it is a dark color, then add a half teacup water and a pinch of salt, let boil for a few mo- ments, take off. and when cold, bottle. 180 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. Parsley Coloring. — Procure nice young parsley, and wash and dry thoroughly in a cloth ; pound the leaves in a mortar until all the juice is extracted, and put juice in teacup or small jar, set in a saucepan of boiling water and warm it just enough to take off its rawness. Let it drain and it will be ready for coloring. Spinach Coloring. — Wash a peck 'of spinach, pour on it two quarts boiling water and let it stand one minute. Pour off th& water, and pound the spinach to a soft pulp. Put this in a coarse towel and squeeze all the juice into a small frying pan. (Two people, by using the towel at the same time, will extract the juice more thoroughly than one can). Put the pan on the fire, and stir until the juice is in the form of curd and whey. Watch closely and do not boil. Turn on a sieve, and when all the liquor has been drained off, scrape the dry material from the sieve and put away for use. Anotlier mode is to put with the juice in the frying-pan three table- spoons sugar, and cook five minutes ; then bottle for use. This is really the more convenient way. Spinach green is used for coloring soups, sauces and creams. French Mustard. — Slice an onion in a bowl and cover it with good vinegar ; after two days pour off the vinegar, add to it a tea- spoon each cayenne pepper and salt, a tablespoon sugar, and rrrus- tard enough to thicken ; set on the stove until it boils ; when cold it is fit for use. Indian Mustard. — Put one-fourth pound each mustard and flour and a half tablespoon salt into a basin, and make them into a stiff paste with boiling water. Boil four shallots with four table- spoons each vinegar and catsup, and one-fourth bottle anchovy sauce, for ten minutes, and pour the whole, boiling, over the mixture in the basin ; stir well, and reduce it to a proper thickness ; put it into a bottle, with a bruised shallot at the bottom, and store away for use. If properly prepared will keep for years. An excellent relish for bread and butter and very nice with meats. Prepared Mustard. — Three teaspoons ground mustard, one of flour (two if the mustard seems very strong), half teaspoon sugar; pour boiled water cooled to lukewarm on these and mix into a smooth, thick paste ; when cold add vinegar enough to make ready for use, and serve with salt. This resembles the French mustard. , Another mode of preparing is to make a dressing of one cup vin- egar, two eggs, one tablespoon each pepper, sugar and salt, butter size of a walnut ; beat well and simmer over the fire to cook the eggs ; then add a tablespoon mustard wet in lukewarm water. Mus- tard may be flavored in various ways, with tarragon, shallot, celery, and many other vinegars, herbs, spices, etc. Tartar Mustard. — Mix a half cup mustard and a alight season- ing of cayenne with sufficient horse-radish vinegar to render it per- CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 181 fectly smooth, rubbing lumps down with back of spoon, adding the vinegar a little at a time, and not making jt too thin: Curvy Powder. — An qunce each ginger, mustard, and pepper, three each of coriander seed and turmeric, one-half ounce carda- mon, quarter ounce each cayenne pepper and cumin seed ; pound all fine, sift and bork tight. One teaspoon of powder is sufficient to season any thing. This is nice for sauces, boiled meats and stews. Dried Celery and Parsley. — Wash the leaves, stalks, roots and trimmings of celery and put them in a cool oven to dry thor- oughly ; then grate the root, rub leaves and stalks through a sieve and put all in tightly corked bottle. Delicious seasoning for sauces, soups, stews and dressing. Save all bits of parsley and preserve for future use in same manner, not using the roots ;, or, take freshly gathered parsley and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt ; put into boiling water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for two or three minutes ; take out, let drain, and place on a sieve in front of the fire, when it should be dried as ex- peditiously as possible. Store it away in a very dry place in bot- tles, and when wanted for use pour over it a little warm water, and let stand for about five minutes. This may be done any time be- tween June and October. Celery salt is made by mixing the root dried and ground as above with one-fourth its quantity of salt. A very nice seasoning', and will keep a long time. Fried Parsley.— G&iher some young parsley ; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; put it into the wire egg basket and hold it in boiling lard or drippings for a minute or two. Directly it is done, lift out basket, and let stand before the fire that the. parsley may become thoroughly crisp, and the quicker it is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out, dry before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp it will be ready for use. This is used for garnishing. Spiced Salt. — Dry, powder, and mix by repeated siftings the following : One-fourth ounce each powdered thyme, bay-leaf and pepper, one-eighth ounce each marjoram and cayenne pepper, one- half ounce each powdered clove and nutmeg, and to every four ounces of this powder add one ounce salt. Keep in an air-tight vessel. Nice for spicing sauces, and one ounce of it added_ to three pounds stuffing, or force meat of any kind makes a delicious sea- soning. 182 CHEESE. CHEESE. The many appetizing, varied and really elegant dishes con- cocted with the aid of cheese by modern cooks, render this prod- uct of the dairy indispensable to every well appointed table. And while the opinion prevails to some extent in this country that imported cheese is superior to that of home manufacture, this is not by any means true, as is proven bj' the fact that immense quantities of American cheese are annually exported, most of which is mar- keted in England, where it is eagerly sought for. The English, how- ever, and other foreign manufacturers, brand their cheese with the name of the locality in which it is made, and hence several fine varieties, as the Stilton, the Cheshire, Gruyere, Parmesan and others have very justly become celebrated. While equally as good cheese is manufactured in America, notably in New York and Northern Ohio, and nearly every state has factories turning out excellent prod- ucts, it goes abroad with no distinctive brand, and is sold along with other cheese, good, bad and indifferent, simply under the name of American cheese ; and as a buyer who may have once been fortu- nate enough to secure a good American article has no means of knowing that his next purchase will be of the same manufacture, because of the American want of foresight in neglecting to properly brand cheese, and often gets poor stuff under the same general name, we are placed at a great disadvantage in competing with foreign manufacturers. Instead of aiming to make home cheese famous, American manufacturers have taken to catering to the popular pre- CHEESE. 183 judice in favor of the imported article, and much of what is sold here as English, Swiss and Italian cheese, is made upon our own shores, and is of such excellent quality that the most prejudiced cannot dis- tinguish between it and the real imported brand. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the ''entire" milk — new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening before ; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not neces- sarily sharp. Most new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated varieties of the foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan, a hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed milk, and the best is that which has been kept three or four years, none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grat- ing and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Ches- hire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from cream and milk, and requires tw© years to ripen ; the Cheshire is made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruyere is the best of the Swiss cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best known in America and is cheap and delicious ; care must be taken when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The German Limburger, a very strong cheese, which is not considered fit for consumption until partly putrefied, is well known here. French cheeses are gen- erally for winter' consumption, and come to us only from October to- May. The best known here are the Brie, made of cream, and which comes in flat, round boxes weighing usually four pounds, and the Roquefort, a mixture of the milk of goats and sheep, made in same shape and size ; the Dutchman's Head, or Edam, from Holland, prized principally for grating and cooking, is also sold here. The American cheeses are the Pineapple, which is double the price of 184 CHEESE. ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and California cheese, which is only about half the weight and thickness of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like the Eastern, is handled loose or naked in the wholesale market. None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, while excellent, if not the best, American factory cheese is obtainable everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked by many. Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, but is simply cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. Cheese from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. Cheese may be had in small, round shapes, brickbats, the thin Cali- fornia cheeses, etc., as well as shaped in the ordinary large round lioop, or by the pound therefrom. All cheese, except the foreign skim-milk makes, contains more or less coloring matter, principally annatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are adulterated. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought in large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the larger quantity spread with a thickly buttered sheet of white paper, and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheese moist a damp cloth should be wrapped round it (wet with white wine or alcohol is better), and the cheese put into a pan or crock kept covered in a cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them for- ward, put them into a damp cellar, and to check the production of mites spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese which are too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be made into Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with maca- roni. Cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years, by covering them with parchment made, pliable by soaking in water, or by rubbing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses se- lected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind. The usual mode of serving cheese is to cut a small quantity of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round, ^m Should the cheese crumble much, of course this "^f^Tcj;^ method is rather wasteful and it may then be put on the table iuthe CHEESE. 185 piece, and the host may cut from it. When served thus, the cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white doyley or napkin, neatly folded. Cream-cheese is often served in a cheese course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan ; the latter should be put into a colored glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, and salad, or water-cress, should always form part of a cheese course, which is served just before the dessert. It is English to serve celery or cucum- bers with it. Thin milk crackers or wafer biscuits (put into the oven just a moment before serving, to make them crisp) should be served with cheese ; butter also for spreading the crackers, this being the only time that it is usually allowed for dinner. Macaroni with cheese, Welsh rare-bits, cheese omelets, or little cheese cakes, are good substitutes for a cheese-course. In serving a Stilton cheese, the top of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white paper with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced. Those made in May or June are usually served at Christmas ; or, to be in prime order, should be kept from ten to twelve months, or even longer. An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced by inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the top. From three weeks to a month is sufficient time to ripen the cheese. An additional flavor may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the top, and pouring therein port, sherry, ^Maderia, or old ale, and letting the cheese ab- sorb these for two or three weeks. But that Stilton Cheese. checse Is the finest which is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters. A dry cheese is best for grating, and the Parmesan, Edam and Ched- dar are largely used for this purpose, but any dry cheese or bits left over may be utilized. If the kind called for in any of the following recipes is not at hand, use the ordinary cheese. Serve as hot and as quickly as possible, for if allowed to cool the flavor and quality of the melted or cooked cheese is spoiled. In buying cheese, that Avhich feels soft cheese Bucket, between the fingers is richest and best. When mites have taken pos- ession of a cheese, and one wishes to use it, the following recipe will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese ; 186 CHEESE. Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton has been cooked, whilst the water is yet hot, majce the water boil a few seconds, take out cheese, wipe immediately, dry and then put it away in a dry place until required for use. The cheese bucket illustrated will be found the most convenient receptacle for cheese, the close-fitting cover excluding air and insects, and is much more easily moved about thu,n a crock. Cheese Cakes. — Take twelve ounces curd made as in recipe for cream cheese, (product of four quarts milk), half cup each sugar, and butter, four yolks of eggs and a pinch of salt, flavoring with grated lemon rind, or extract and nutmeg. Rub the curd, as taken from the draining cloth, through a puree sieve, add the other in- gredients and mix well together. Line patty-pans with paste, near- ly fill with the mixture, bake about fifteen miniites. The curd mixture, though seemingly too firm at first, melts and pufifs up in the oven. Dredge powdered sugar over the tops when clone. These are very delicious. As substitutes for rennet curd, which is as sweet as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk and the curd of a custard that is spoiled through letting it boil, can be used if prepared by scalding and draining in the same way, but will not be quite so good. Cheese Crusts. — Cut stale bread in slices about two inches and a half thick ; trim off crust, place on a baking-pan' and on each slice of bread put a heaping tablespoon of any mild cheese grated, or a very thin layer of strong, rich cheese ; on the top of the cheese put very little salt and pepper, and a bit of butter, and set the pan in a hot oven just long enough to slightly brown the crusts ; watch them, because they should only be browned a little ; let them cool on the baking-pan, and then transfer them, without breaking them or dis- turbing the cheese, to the dish on which thej' are to be served. Cheese crusts may be used at familj' dinners as a sort of dessert, or served at dinner or luncheon with any green salad or celery. Cheese Diablotins. — Put a gill milk in a stewpan, with two tablespoons butter; when boiling, stir in two tablespoons flour, keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stew- pan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, and a pound grated cheese ; mix well, season with pep- per, salt, and cayenne, rather highly, mold the paste into balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into hot lard ; fry of a nice light "brown, and serve very hot ; a quarter of this quantity may of bourse be made. An excellent dish. CHEESE. 187 Cheese Fingers. — Roll pie paste out thin and cut into strips about four inches long and one and one-half wide; strew each thickly with grated cheese, season with pepper and salt, double the paste lengthwise, enclosing the cheese, pinch the edges and bake in quick oven. Wash over with beaten egg just before taking out and sift a little powdered cheese on top. Shut oven door a moment to glaze them well ; pile log-cabin fashion on a napkin in a warm dish and serve hot. Cheese Fondu. — There are many ways of preparing this dish, of which the following are considered the best : Four eggs, the weight of two in cheese, Parmesan or Cheshire if obtainable, the weight of two in butter ; pepper and salt to taste. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs ; beat the former in a basin and grate the cheese, or cut it into very thin flakes. Break the butter into small pieces, add it to the other ingredients with sufficient pepper and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly, well whisk the whites of eggs, stir them lightly in last, and put into oven as quickly as possible. Bake in a souffle dish or small round cake tin. Fill only half full, as it should rise very much. Pin napkin round the dish if there is no ornamental receptacle, and serve very hot and quickly. If allowed to stand after taken from'the oven, the beauty and lightness of the fondu will be completely spoiled. If one has not an ornamental receptacle, a pretty way of serving is to line the baking pan with paper cut in a fringe at the top. Or bake in indi- vidual molds or tins of small size lined thus with paper, or in thick paper molds of any fancied form, remembering that they must be only half filled when put in oven. Another excellent recipe is to take as many eggs as there are to be persons at table, weigh them in the shell, and take one-third their weight in the best cheese to be had, and one-sixth as much butter as cheese. To the well-beaten eggs add the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces, and stir together with a wooden spoon ; put over the fire and stir until thick and soft ; add salt and pepper to taste and serve on very hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow the fondu to remain on the fire after the mixture is set, for if it boils it will be entirely spoiled. Or, take one cup bread-crumbs, very dry and fine, two scant cups of milk, rich and fresh or it will curdle, one-half pound dry old cheese, grated, three eggs whipped very light, one small tablespoon melted butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a pinch of soda dissolved in hot water and stirred into the milk ; soak the crumbs in the milk, beat into these the eggs, butter and seasoning, and lastly the cheese. But- ter a neat baking dish, pour the fondu into it, strew dry bread- crumbs on the top and bake in a rather quick oven until delicately browned. Serve' immediately in the baking dish, as it soon falls. Economical and delicious. Cheese Fritters. — Put six tablespoons flour in a bowl and pour a half tablespoon melted butter into the center ; add to this, by 188 CHEESE. degrees, eight tablespoons tepid water, beating all the time, yolk of one egg, half teaspoon each pepper and dry mustard, and three heaping tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, and last the well- beaten white. Drop a tablespoon at a time into hot clarified fat or lard. As the fritters brown and rise to top, turn and brown the other side; place piece of kitchen paper (any clean, coarse brown paper) in a baking pan in open oven and put the browned fritters upon it for a moment that the paper may absorb the fat, then serve upon a hot plate covered with a hot napkin and garnished with sprigs of parsley. Cheese Omelet. — Beat up eggs as for ordinary omelet (see Eggs) and add to them the cheese cut in small pieces, a tablespoon to three eggs. The cheese may be stirred in quickly just before fry- ing, or strewn over the omelet in the pan. A seasoning of salt and pepper should be added after putting in pan. Parmesan cheese should be grated and beaten in with the eggs, adding a little more just before folding the omelet, and serving with the grated cheese sprinkled on top. Serve as hot as possible and it will be delicious. Cheese Pudding. — One-half pound dry cheese, grated fine, one cup dry bread-crumbs, four well-beaten eggs, one cup minced meat — one-third ham, two-thirds fowl — one cup milk and one of good gravy — veal or fowl — one teaspoon butter, and a pinch of soda in the milk ; season with pepper and a very little salt. Stir the milk into the beaten eggs, then the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and meat ; lastly the cheese. Beat up well, but not too long, else the milk may curdle in spite of the soda. Butter a mold, pour in the pudding, cover, and boil three-quarters of an hour steadily. Turn out upon a hot dish and pour the gravy over it. Or, grate three ounces cheese and five of bread ; and having warmed one ounce butter in a quar- ter pint new milk, mix it with the above, add two well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Bake half an hour. Cheese PuiFs.- — Three ounces cream curd, one quart rich milk curdled with rennet, one gill milk, one tablespoon butter, one cup flour, two ounces grated cheese, three eggs. Have the curd scalded and drained dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. Boil the milk with the butter in it, drop in the flour all at once and stir the paste over the fire a few minutes ; take off fire and put in the curd and the grated cheese, and pound the mixture smooth ; then add the eggs one at a time and beat them in. Drop spoonfuls of this mixture into patty-pans, lined thinly with pie paste, and bake in a slack oven ; or else roll mixture very thin, cut in triangular shapes, put a spoonful of the mixture in the middle and pinch up the sides like a three-cornered hat, and bake on a liiscuit pan. They will open out in baking. Good to eat with apple-sauce. Cheese Peli.^h. — Place small pie<'e butter in frying-pan with one-fourth pound thinly sliced fresh cheese and pour over it a cup CHEESE. 189 sweet milk, quarter teaspoon dry mustard, pinch salt and pepper, stirring all the time, then add gradually three finely rolled crackers and serve at once in a warm dish. Cheese Sandwiches. — Rub yolks of three hard boiled eggs to a smooth paste with one tablespoon melted butter, season with pepper and salt, and work in one-fourth pound good English cheese, grated, or any cheese may be used. Spread the mixture on very thin slices of bread, and fold. Or place slices of good rich cheese half an inch thick between slices of brown-bread and butter, set them on a plate in oven until well toasted and serve on napkin quickly while very hot. Cheese SouMe. — Two tablespoons butter, one heaping table- spoon flour, half cup milk, cup grated cheese, three eggs, half tea- spoon salt, speck of cayenne. Put the butter in the saucepan and when hot add the flour and stir until smooth but not browned, add the milk and seasoning and cook two minutes, then add the well beaten yolks of eggs and the cheese ; set away to cool ; when cold add the stifHy frothed whites, turn into a buttered soufHe pan or baking dish and bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve the moment it comes from the oven. The dish in which this is baked should hold a quart. Cheese Soup. — Mix one and a half cups flour with one pint rich cream, four tablespoons each butter and grated Parmesan cheese with a speck of cayenne ; place the basin in another of hot water and stir until the mixture becomes a smooth, firm paste ; break into it two eggs and mix quickly and thoroughly, cook two minutes longer and set away to cool ; when cold roll into little balls size of American walnut. When the balls are all formed drop them into boiling water and cook gently five minutes ; put them in a soup- tureen and pour three quarts of clear boiling soup-stock over them. Pass a plate of finely grated Parmesan cheese with the soup. Cheese Vol au Vents. — Cut rounds of bread from slices an inch thick, cut out an, inner round, leaving a shallow cavitj^ Dip in beaten egg and fry a light brown. ( Then fill the cavities with a mixture made by stir- • ring into a half cup of boiling water one table- ohecsrvoi'aii vcnta! spoon butter and five tablespoons grated cheese, and when this is melted the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Season with pepper and salt, beat together one minute and put in a handful bread-crumbs. After filling the rounds of fried bread brown very quickly in oven and serve on folded napkin. Cheese Straws. — Sift six ounces flour on the pastry-board, make a hole or well in the center ; into this well put two tablespoons ■cream, three ounces grated Parmesan, or any rich dry cheese, four ounces butter, half a level teaspoon salt, quarter salt-spoon each 190 CHEESE. pepper and grated nutmeg, together with as much cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a very small penknife blade ; mix all these ingredients with the tips of the fingers to a firm paste, knead it well, roll it out an eighth of an inch thick, and with a sharp knife or pastry jagger cut it in straws about eight inches long and quar- ter of an inch wide ; lay the strips carefully on a buttered tin, and bake them light straw color in a moderate oven. These cheese straws make a delicious accompaniment to salad, and may be served as a course at dinner, either with or without crackers, but always with' a dressed green salad, or with plain celery. Another mode of making is to rub four tablespoons sifted flour with two of butter, and four of grated cheese, add one egg and season with calt and cayenne pepper, roll very thin, cut in narrow strips three inches in length, and mold either into straws or tie in true lover's knots, bake a pale brown in a hot oven and serve hot on napkin, with salads. Four tablespoons bread-crumbs may be used instead of the egg, and the straws made thus are often served cold for luncheon or tea. Still another excellent recipe is two cups grated cheese, one-third cup butter, cayenne to taste, three-fourths cup flour, or enough to roll as pie-crust, one-half cup warm water ; beat all to- gether, roll out and cut in narrow strips four inches long, and bake on writing paper in a hot oven, to a lightbrown. Or, mix three-quarters pint grated cheese, pint flour, pinch ^ salt- with lard as pie crust, roll and finish as above. Serve chlese with salad, piled on plate, crossing them in pairs and tying with ribbon of different colors; or, bake in eight-inch lengths and serve in log-cabin style. Use cream, milk or water for mixing. Cheese with Celevi/. — One-half cup each grated cheese, gravy and butter, or poultry fat, two cups celery cut small, and a little pepper and salt. The celery should be in pieces about an inch long split to look like macaroni ; boil ten minutes in water, drain, mix in the cheese, butter, pepper and salt, and bake in a pan, basting the top with spoonfuls of the meat gravy. Serve like a vegetable in tureen or individual dishes. Cheese with Crackers. — Soak in boiling water round milk crackers split in two, take them out carefully so as not to break them ; make layers of these slices in a little grai'in dish or a deep baking-dish, each slice buttered, spread with a little made mustard, and sprinkled with pepper, salt, and plenty of grated cheese. When all is prepared, bake them in a hot oven for ten minutes. Cheese with Eggs. — Cut hard-boiled eg,i;;s into slices and lay in a well-buttered dish that has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and place on each slic^e of egg a slice of Gruyere cheese of same shape and size ; place a bit of butter on eaeh, pepper well, sift a few bread- crumbs over and put into good oven for about five minutes. Serve as hot as possible ;se riln CHEESE. 191 Cheese u'ith 2Tacaron{. — Put a pint milk and two pints water into a saucepan with sufficient salt to flavor it ; place it on the fire and when it boils quickly drop in a half pound pipe macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender (an hour or more), drain the macaroni and put it into a deep dish. Have ready six ounces grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire, sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread- crumbs. "Warm, without oiling, the remainder of one-fourth pound butter, and pour it- gently oveT the ^^^^ bread-crumbs. Place the dish beforea SB^A ^^^^^,^^^^^^^^^ bright fire to brown the crumbs ; turn ^^^x\^^^^^^^^^^ it once or twice that it may be equally salamander. colored, and serve very hot. The top of the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than placing it be- fore the fire, as the process is more expeditious ; but it should never be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil and so impart a very disagreeable flavor to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little salt, instead of using milk, but should then have a small piece of butter mixed with it. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cottage Cheese. — Set a gallon or more of clabbered milk on the stove hearth, or back of stove, or in the oven after cooking a meal, leaving the door open ; turn it around frequenth', and cut the curd into squares with a knife, stirring gently now and then till about as warm as the finger will bear, and the whey shows all around the curd; pour all into a coarse bag and hang to drain in a cool place for three or four hours, or overnight if made in the evening. When wanted, turn from the bag, chop rather coarse with a knife and dress with salt, pepper and sweet cream. Some mash and rUb thoroughly with the cream ; others dress with sugar, cream and a little nutmeg, omitting the salt and pepper. Another way is to chop fine, add salt to taste, work in a very little cream or butter, and mold into round balls. If wanted to serve immediately, drain the curd through a col- ander, pressing out all the whey possible with the back of a spoon, dress as above as soon as cold and send to table, cutting the top of cheese in little squares. Cream Cheese. — Take three pints thick cream and put it into a clean wet cloth, adding a teaspoon salt after the cream is sour ; tie it \x]} and hang it in a cool place for seven or eight days ; take it from the cloth and put it in another and then into a mold with a weight upon it for two or three days longer. Turn it twice a day, when it will be fit to use S(>ur cream may be made into cheese same waj'. If wanted to ripen quicklj'', cover with 192 CHEESE. mint or nettle leaves. Or take a small pan of fresh morning's milk, warm from the cow is best, and mix with the cream skimmed from an equal quantity of the last night's milk. Warm it to blood heat, pour into it a cup of water in which a piece of rennet the size of two fingers has soaked all night, and put it in a warm place till the curd has formed. Cut the curd into squares, put it in a thin straining cloth, squeeze it dry, then crumble and salt it to taste. "Wash the straining cloth, lay it in the cheese hoop (a bottomless vessel the size of a dinner plate perforated with small holes), put the crumbled curd into the cloth and fold the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the cover and set a weight on it. In six hours turn the cheese, and let stand six hours longer. Then take it out, rub it with fresh butter, and set it in a dark, dry place. Turn it every day for four or five days, when it is fit for use, and it must be eaten immediately when cut. It will keep but a few days, even in cold weather. To make a plain family cream cheese, take three half pints milk to one-half pint cream, warm it and put in a little rennet ; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled ; put the curds into the colander on a cloth to drain about an hour, serve with good plain cream and pounded sugar over it. To color, pound fresh sage leaves in a mor- tar to obtain the juice, and mix it with the milk while warm after the rennet is put in. Spinach juice is an improvement. Potato Cheese.— Boil good white potatoes, and when cool, peel them and grate or mash them to a light pulp ; to five pounds of this, which must be free from lumps, add a pint of sour milk and salt to taste ; knead the whole well, cover it, and leave it for three or four days, according to the season ; then knead it afresh, and put the cheeses into small baskets, when they will part with their superflu- ous moisture ; dry them in the shade, and place them in layers in large pots or kegs, where they may remain a fortnight. The older they are the finer they become. This cheese, it is said, never engen- ders worms, and in well closed vessels, in a dry place, will keep for years. This is celebrated in various parts of Europe. Pounded Cheese.— To every pound cheese allow three table- spoons butter. Cut cheese into small pieces and pound smoothly in mortar (or use a bowl and potato masher), then thoroughly mix the butter with it; press into a jar, cover with clarified butter audit will keep several days. A good way to dispose of drv cheese ; very nice for sandwiches, and the best mode of preparing f'or those whose digestion is weak. May be flavored by adding a teaspoon mixed mustard, cayenne or powdered mace, to each pound cheese, and curry powder is often used. Toasted Cheese. — Rub the bottom of a heated frying-pan with a cut onion, then with butter. Put a half pound dry grated cheese into it, stirring fast to prevent burning. "\Vlien it is melted put in a tablespoon each melted butter and made mustard, and a pinch cay- CHEESE. 193 enne pepper, and lastly a tablespoon bread-crumbs, which have been previously soaked in cream, then pressed almost dry. Spread smoking hot on rounds or slices of thin toast from which the crust has been pared, and serve at once. For Toasted Cheese with Eggs take one-half pound good English cheese, three eggs beaten light, three tablespoons bread-crumbs soaked in cream, tablespoon m.ustard, a little minced parsley, three table- spoons butter, melted, but not hot. Beat the soaked crumbs into the Kit«h™ ohee.e Knife, eggs, then the butter and seasoning, lastly the cheese. Beat very light, spread smoothly on slices of delicate toast and brown quickly upon the upper grating of the oven. The cheese knife will be found useful in preparing cheese for toasting, scooping out the inside of a dry cheese, etc. Eamalcins. — Four ounces grated, high-flavored cheese, half Cheshire and half Parmesan if obtainable, or all of one kind, two ounces each butter and bread (without crust), a scant gill milk, one- third teaspoon each mustard and salt, small pinch cayenne pepper, ^^^^ two or three eggs. Crumb the bread and boil it soft in the ySS^ milk ; add the butter, mustard, salt, pepper, cheese, and the yolks of the eggs ; beat thoroughly, then stir in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pour this into patty pans or saucers, which ought not to be more than half filled ; bake the paste from five to ten minutes, when it should be puffed high above the edge of the pans. Serve immediately, or they will fall. A good cheese course for dinner and nice for lunch or supper. This batter is equally nice for macaroni. Another excellent recipe for ramakins is to boil half pint milk and half the quantity of cream ; melt one ounce butter and a little salt ; mix in a spoonful flour, and stir it over the fire five minutes ; pour in milk and cream by degrees and work smooth, taking care that it is thoroughly cooked, then take off and add half a pound grated cheese, some coarse ground pepper and an atom of nutmeg, with a very little powdered sugar, the yolks of eight eggs and whites of two, well beaten ; when perfectly mixed, add the well- frothed whites of six eggs ; the batter should be as thick as cream. Make little paper trays, fill them half full, and bake in a very slow oven eighteen minutes. Or, bake in patty pans .or small cups. Serve hot. Pastry Ramakins. — The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, etc., answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste, roll out evenly, and sprinkle with grated cheese of a nice flavor, iiiii Fold the paste in three, roll it out again and "'""" ' """''*''«iSiiiaiiij|i(,„„4 sprinkle more cheese over ; fold the paste, paste jaggar. roll it out, and with a paste jaggar shape it in any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from ten to fifteen min- utes ; iust before taking from the oven brush with beaten egg and 13 194 CHEESE. sift over with powdered sugar, let brown a moment, dish them on a hot najjkin and serve quickly. Where expense is not objected to, Par- mesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish. The recipe makes a quantity sufficient for six or seven persons. Toast Ramakins. — Three tablespoons grated cheese, two eggs beaten light, one tablespoon melted butter, one teaspoon anchovy sauce, one teaspoon flour wet with cream, a pinch of cayenne pepper. Beat the butter and seasoning in with the eggs, then the cheese, lastly the flour, working until the mixture is of creamy lightness. Spread thickly upon slices of lightly toasted bread and brown quickly in the oven. Or, grate a half pound cheese and melt two ounces butter ; while the latter is getting cool mix it with the cheese and well-beaten whites of three eggs ; lay buttered papers in a frying pan, put in slices of bread and lay the cheese mixture on top ; set it over the fire for about five minutes, then take it oflT and brown with a salamander. Scotch Rare-bit. — Cut nice, rich, sound cheese into rather thin slices, melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and when melted add a small'quantity mixed mustard and a seasoning of pepper. Stir the cheese until it is completely dissolved, then brown it before the fire or with a hot salamander. Serve with dry or buttered toasts, whichever may be preferred. If the cheese is not very rich a few pieces of butter may be mixed with it to great ad- vantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread on the toasts, and then laid in the cheese-toaster. Whichever way it is served it is highly necessary that the mixture be very hot and very quickly sent to table. Welsh Rare-hit. — Cut bread into slices about half an inch in thickness, allowing a slice for each person ; pare off the crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and spread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, from a good rich fat cheese ; lay them on the toasted bread in a cheese- toaster ; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be equ-al- ly melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a sea- soning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To facil- itate the melting of the cheese it may be cut into thin flakes or toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so essen- tial to send this dish hot to table it is a good plan to melt the cheese in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to table, allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast should always accompany them, with mustard, pepper and salt ; or stir to- gether in a saucepan over the fire until smoothly blended, four heaping tablespoons grated cheese, two of butter, one oi milk, salt- spoon each salt and dry mustard, quarter of pepper and a dust oi cayenne. The pan must be hot and rubbed well witli butter before putting in the cheese ; stir rapidly and when melted put in butter, CHEESE. 195 next mustard and pepper. Some add a cup bread-crumbs soaked in a little milk, which should be pressed dry and put in last. Or the well-beaten yolks of two eggs may be added after the butter and cheese are melted. Have ready some nicely-toasted slices of bread cut in square or diamond-shaped pieces of any size desired, and serve at once on a hot platter, as it is quite spoiled if allowed to get cold. The mustard may be omitted if desired, and some think it more delicate to dip the toast quickly, after buttering, into a shallow pan of boiling water ; have some cheese ready melted in a cup,, and pour some over each slice. The best way to serve is to have little plates made hot, place a slice on each plate, and serve one to each person. The Welsh rare-bit makes a decidedly pretty course, served in little chafing-dishes in silver, or plated silver, about four inches square, one of which, standing in a plate', is to be served to each person at table. The reservoir contains boiling*-hot water ; the little platter holds the slice of Welsh rare-bit, which is thus kept hot. A poached egg is sometimes placed on each slice, and it is then served under the name of Golden Buck. Poach the eggs in boiling water seasoned with a little salt, half gill vinegar and teaspoon butter, place a slice of fried or boiled bacon on top of the poached eggs and it is sent to table as Yorkshire Bare-hit. To Toast Cheese. — G-rate or slice the desired quantity of cheese and put with a bit of butter into the cheese toaster, ^^^^^^=j which is prepared by filling the bottom with hot ' S. | |.„ji' , water.- Our engraving illustrates a cheese toaster ifc -^giipg with hot water reservoir ; the cheese is pielted in """"""cheese Toaster an upper tin placed in the reservoir. If one of these useful little utensils cannot be had, melt the cheese in a pie tin on back of stove or range, or over a kettle of hot water. English Bread and Butter. — This is to serve with a cheese course. Cut an even slice off a large loaf of fresh home-made bread, butter the cut end of the loaf thinly, then hold it against the side with the' left hand and arm, and with a sharp, """"i Kuire. thin knife, cut an even slice not more than an eighth of inch thick ; a little practice and a steady grasp of the bread and knife will en- able any one to produce regular whole slices ; fold each slice double with the butter inside, and serve them on a clean napkin. The slices may be rolled like a napkin, and served, in this _ .:,|,;ji case bake the bread in the following manner : When ^^H^^' risen in the single loaf pan, invert it upon an ordi- il^dPac. nary dripping-pan, leaving the other pan still over the loaf, as illustrated, and bake as other bread, taking off upper pan at end of one hour to see if it is done. This bread is more easily rolled than any other, and is also prized for eating as well as rolling ; slice and roll as directed in Wedding Rolls. 136 CHEESE. Fromage. — Beat two eggs very light, stir in a half pint cream and add a half pound grated cheese and a pinch of cayenne pepper ; pour into buttered soup plates, bake fifteen minutes and serve. Italian Balls. — Boil together tablespoon butter and eight of water, add pinch each salt and pepper, ten tablespoons flour and three of grated Parmesan cheese, stirring all the time, and boil a a minute or two. Take off and stir in thoroughly three well-beaten eggs. Divide mixture into balls and poach them in three-quarters pint boiling milk ; when done place on sieve to drain. Make a sauce of tablespoon butter, four of fiour and one and a half pints milk ; let simmer for fifteen minutes or till it thickens. Put a layer of balls in a small baking dish, then a layer of grated cheese, then a layer of the sauce ; repeat till dish is full, strewing grated cheese over the top ; brown in oven and serve hot. Very delicious. Mock-Crab. — Break up a half pound soft rich cheese with a cheese-knife, or fork, mix with it a teaspoon dry mustard, a salt- spoon salt, half a saltspoon pepper and a dessert-spoon vinegar ; serve it cold with a plate of thin bread and butter or crisp crackers. RagamuMns. — Take raised biscuit dough, roll out to inch thick- ness, sprinkle thickly with grated cheese, roll up like a jelly roll, cut in about inch slices fiom the end and place in pans, with cut side down ; let rise a little while and bake quickly. Baking powder dough may be used, placing at once in oven. Very nice. Spaghetti Butter. — Spaghetti is macaroni in another form, a solid cord instead of a tube. Take two cups broken spaghetti, one each of minced cheese and milk, butter size of an egg, and two yolks of eggs. Throw the spaghetti into water that is already boil- ing, and salted. After cooking twenty minutes drain it dry, and put it into the buttered dish in which it is to be baked. Put the cheese and butter and half the milk into a saucepan and stir them over the fire till the cheese is nearly melted ; mix the yolks with the rest of the milk, pour that into the saucepan, then add the whole to the spaghetti in the pan, and bake it a yellow brown in as short a time as possible. It loses its richness if cooked too long, through the toughening of the cheese. This butter ought to be yellow as gold. Scallopade. — Soak one cup dry bread-crumbs in new or fresli milk. Beat into this three well-beaten eggs. Add tablespoon melted butter and a half pound grated cheese. Sprinkle the top with sifted bread-crumbs and bake in the oven a delicate brown. A delicious relish to eat with thin bread and butter. DBINKS. 197 DRINKS. Beside the wines and liquors still served at so many tables, though rigorously and wisely excluded from many others, and the universal and well-nigh indispensable coffee and tea, there are in- numerable pleasant, refreshing drinks that are easily concocted and within the reach of all. The basis of most of these is the juice of fruits, which, combined with sugar and flavoring in liked propor- tions, forms an infinite variety of healthful as well as pleasing bev- erages. A knowledge of the proper preparation of the two every-day beverages, coffee and tea, should be among the acquirements of every housekeeper. To avoid adulteration, buy cofifee in the grain, either raw or in small quantities freshly roasted. In selecting raw coffee choose that which is dry and light ; if it feels dense and heavy it is green ; buy that at least eight or ten months old, and the claim is made that the longer the raw berry is kept the riper and better flavored it becomes. The best kinds are the Mocha and Java, and some prefer to mix the two, having roasted them separately m the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. Mocha alone is too rough and acrid, but thus blended it is delicious. Pure Java, if of a high order, does not need other brands of coffee to make it palatable ; but, as a rule, above mixing, or one-third each of pure Mocha, Java, and Maracaibo, makes a rich cup of coffee, while a mixture of two-thirds Mandehling Java and one-third "male berry" (so called) Java produces excellent results; or one pound Java to about four ounces Mocha and four ounces of one or two 198 DRINKS. other kinds ; and it is said that from three parts Rio, with two parts Old Government Java, a coffee can he made quite as good, if not superior, to that made of Java alone. West India coffee, though of a different flavor, is often very good. Mexico coffee is quite accept- able, but the producers must clean it properly if they expect to receive patronage. Java, or East India coffee, may be known by its large yellow beans ; Mocha comes from Arabia and has small gray beans inclining to greenish. The Rio berries are of the same color with the greenish tinge, but are of larger size, midway between Mo- cha and Java. In buying roasted coffee ascertain that it has been kept in closely covered air-tight tin box, as if in pine it will be flavored with pine, and purchase of a dealer who roasts frequently, or buys roasted coffee in small lots. Coffee roasted by machinery is of course more evenly browned, but by roasting it at home one is sure of having it perfectly fresh and pure. When buying roasted coffee compare it with the raw beans of the kind desired. If pure and properly roasted the coffee will be of a rich brown color and have increased fifty per cent in bulk, or each bean will be a half size larger than when raw. Coffee loses twenty-five per cent its weight in roasting a pound of raw coffee making only three-quarters of a pound roasted. Roast coffee with the greatest care — for here lies the secret of success in coffee-making — and in small quantities, for there is a peculiar freshness of flavor when newly roasted. To make the most perfect and delicious coffee, the desired quantity should be roasted just before it is made. But this involves more time and trouble than can be given by most housewives for every-day use. Pick over carefully, wash if berries are not clean, and weigh (the best will not txeed washing), and dry in a moderate oven, increase the heat and roast quickly, either in the oven or on top of the stove or range ; in the latter case stir constantly and in the oven stir often with a wooden spoon or ladle kept for this purpose. The coffee must be thoroughly and evenly roasted to a dark rich brown (not black) throughout, and must be free from any burnt grains, a few of which will ruin the flavor of a large quantity. It must be tender and brit- tle, to test which take a grain, place it on the table, press with the thumb and if it can be crushed, it is done. Blow off any loose par- ticles separated by the heat and stir in a lump of butter while the coffee is hot, or wait until about half cold and then stir in a well- DRINKS. 199 beaten egg. The latter plan is very economical, as coffee so pre- pared needs no further clarifying. A French method of roasting coffee is to add to every three pounds coffee a piece of butter the size of a nut and a dessert-spoonful powdered sugar, and then roast in the usual manner. The addition of the butter and sugar develops the flavor and aroma of the berry, but the butter must be of the very best. Another French method is to roast, grind to a flour, moisten slightly, mix it with twice its weight in sugar and then press into tablets, using a tablet when needed. Keep coffee in a closely cov- ered tin or earthen vessel. Never attempt other work while roasting coffee but give it the entire attention. Grind quantities as needed, for the flavor is dissipated if it is long unused after grinding, even ■when under cover. The grinding is a very important part of the preparation of coffee, and the old method, still very generally prac- ticed, was to grind into coarse particles, but it is now claimed that if ground too coarse much of the strength and aroma of the coffee is lost ; by grinding as fine as possible these qualities are much more perfectly preserved, and the only objection urged is that it is dif- ficult to make the beverage clear. This may be obviated by filtering, or using the sack described in Filtered Coffee, as the little wire cups opening in center for holding coffee are not fine enough, though some inventive genius will doubtless soon bring forward a strainer of the requisite fineness for this purpose. Many grind coffee mod- erately fine or to particles the size of pin heads, obtaining there- from a satisfactory beverage, and claim that this grinding frees the • oil, as it should be, and any finer develops properties very injurious. A step furtheristo reduce the coffee to a fine powder — as fine as flour. If appliances for doing this are not at hand then the dealer must be depended upon, but prepare at home if possible, and thus secure perfectly fresh and unadulterated coffee. "When necessary to pur- chase of a dealer be sure that the coffee is roasted and ground fre- quently, if not daily,, and buy only in small quantities sufficient for a week's consumption is a good rule, though for large families it has been bought in five-pound cans, and by keeping closely covered was thought to have lost but little of its strength and flavor. In any case, keep in air-tight can. MAKING COFFEE. To make coffee from the powder it will be necessary to use a patent pot or put the powder in the sack described below. The pow- 200 DRINKS. der is claimed to be much more economical than the ordinary ground coffee, requiring only about one-third as much, or one teaspoon to each person (with half pint water), and is also much more quickly made, the boiling water filtering through and the coffee being ready to serve within a minute or two after it is put in the sack. The old- fashioned way of making coffee by boiling is still practiced by prob- ably a majority of housekeepers. "One for the pot" and a heaping tablespoon ordinary ground coffee for each person, is the usual al- lowan6e. Mix well, either with a part or the whole of an egg when only a part is used putting in the shell also, and when eggs are scarce some are careful to wash shells before breaking, and keep for this purpose, crushing three or four into the pot instead of the egg ; or codfish skin washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, may be used and enough cold water to thoroughly moisten it, place in a heated, well-scalded coffee-boiler, pour in half the quantity of boiling water needed, allowing one pint less of water than there are tablespoons of coffee. Roll a canton flannel cloth tightly — one must be kept for this purpose and washed and dried after using — and stop up the nose or spout, thus keeping in all the coffee flavor. Boil rather fast five minutes, stirring down from the top and sides as it boils up, and place on back part of stove or range where it will only simmer for ten or fifteen minutes longer. When ready to serve add the re- mainder of the boiling water Some think the flavor is better pre- served to put a small quantity of cold water with the coffee, bring it to boiling point and add sufficient boiling water. Or, another method of making coffee without clearing is to stir the coffee directly into the boiling water, boil and simmer as above, then pour out a large cupful, and, holding it high over the pot, pour it in again ; repeat this, and set it on stove where it will keep hot, without simmering. The coffee will be clear if instructions are carefully followed. Another method is to pour boiling water over the coffee, cover close- ly, boil one minute, remove to the side of the stove a few minutes to settle, and serve. Allow two heaping tablespoons coffee to a pint water. The less time the coffee is cooked the more coffee of ordi- nary grinding is required, but the finer the flavor. The late Profes- sor Blot protested against boiling the coffee at all, as in his opinion the aroma was evaporated, and only the bitter flavor left. The ad- vantages of boiled coffee are that when the egg is used the yolk gives a very rich flavor, and when the milk or cream is added the DRINKS. 201 coffee has a rkh, yellow look, which is pleasing. It has also a pe- culiar flavor, which many people prefer to the flavor gained by any other process. The disadvantages are that the egg coats the dry coffee, and when the hot water is added the coating ■becomes hard, and a great deal of the best of the coffee remains in the grounds after boiling, compelling one to use nearly double the amount of coffee. Also, in boiling, much of the fine flavor is lost in the steam that escapes from the pot, and the tannic acid of the coffee is ex- tracted, which in combination with the milk or cream taken with it hardens the albumen they contain into an indigestible compound that is excessively irritating to the delicate internal membranes. For these reasons the practice of making coffee without boiling is gradually becoming more general. And for this a fair proportion for good coffee is three tablespoons of the pure ground berry to each quart water, which makes sufficient for three persons. The water must be boiling when poured on the coffee but must not boil after- ward. The vessel in which it is made must stand near enough the fire to be kept as hot as possible without boiling for five or ten min- utes before using. If made in a pot containing a strainer the coffee will be clear, and if made in an ordinary pot or pitcher it should be stirred for three minutes after pouring boiling water over it, to thor- oughly saturate the grounds and so cause them to sink to the bottom of the pot. If coffee is allowed to stand for about ten minutes to settle, and is poured off carefully, it will be perfectly clear. The water used ill making coffee should be fresh and have boiled two or three minutes before pouring over the coffee ; never take that which has stood long in the tea-kettle. Always have the coffee-pot hot before putting in the coffee. Many think that heating the dry coffee just before making improves its flavor. When serving coffee have the cups hot. They are very easily heated when coffee is poured at table by filling first with hot water from the water-pot, that should always be provided, and turning it into the slop-bowl. If served from butler's pantry, set cups over the heater, or fill first with hot water, as at table. Serve, both coffee and tea with the richest cream, but where this cannot be had, a substitute is prepared as follows : Take fresh, new milk, set in a pan or pail in boiling water where it will slowly simmer, but not boil or reach the boiling point, stir frequently to keep the cream from separating and rising to the top, and allow to simmer until it is rich, thick and creamy. In absence of both. 202 DRINKS. cream and milk the whites of fresh eggs beaten to a froth, with a small bit of butter well mixed in, may be used, taking one egg for every two cups, and placing the froth in the cup first ; in pouring the coffee or tea it must be turned on gradually and constantly stirred so as not to curdle the egg ; or omit the butter and use the whole egg ; or for a richer dressing with cream, beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, mix with an equal quantity of whipped cream, put in plain cream first, then coffee and lastly this mixture. Physicians say that coffee without cream is more wholesome, particularly for persons of weak digestion. There seems to be some element in the coffee which, combining with the milk, forms a leathery coating on the stomach and impairs digestion. The convenient coffee or tea strainer, of which an illustration is given, is applied or detached in a moment, being held in place by a spring, as shown in cut, inserted in the spout. The strainer separates the dregs from the tea or coffee as it is poured. It is made to fit any coffee or tea-pot. The solid rim is of pure britannia and is easily kept clean and bright. A similar strainer is. made to attach « to the faucets of urns. In serving from the butler's pantry the liquid may be poured into cups through a small handled strainer answering the same purpose. To keep the coffee- pot or tea-pot thoroughly pure, boil a little borax or soda in them, in water enough to touch the whole inside surface, once or twice a week, for about fifteen minutes. No dish-water should ever touch the inside of either. It is sufficient to rinse them in two or three waters ; this should be done as soon after they are used as possible. Drain dry, and when ready to use, scald out in two waters. These precautions will aid in preserving the flavor of the tea and coffee. FILTERED COFFEE. The French coffee biggin furnishes the easiest means for filter- ing coffee. It consists of two cylindrical tin vessels, one fitting into the other; the bottom of the upper one is a "fine strainer, another coarser strainer is placed on this with a rod running upwards from its center; the finely ground coffee is put in, and then another strainer is slipped on the rod, over the coffee, the boiling water is poured on the upper sieve and falls is a shower upon the coffee^ DRINKS. 203 filtering through it to the coarse strainer at the bottom, which pre- vents the coffee from filling up the holes of the finer strainer below it. The coffee thus made is clear and pure ; the pot must stand where it will keep hot until the water has entirely filtered through. When wanted extra nice the coffee is turned out into a hot measure and poured through the filter again. Let stand a moment on the range and it will be as clear as wine. But unless the pot, measure and water are very hot, the coffee will taste as though it had become cold and then been " warmed over." No eggs or other foreign sub- stances are used to clear or settle the coffee. The National, Minute and other patent coffee-pots are too widely known to need description here, but the"gude wife" can improvise one equally as desirable and much simpler. ■ Make a sack of fine flannel, or unbleached muslin, half so long as the coffee-pot is deep, or shorter will do, and a little larger than the top ; stitch up the side seam to within an inch and a half of the top, bend a piece of small but rather stiff wire . in a circle and slip it through a hem made around the top of the sack, bringing the ends together at the open- ing left at the top 'of the side seam. Having put the coffee in the sack, lower it into the coffee-pot with the ends of the wire next the handle, spread the ends of the wire apart slightly, and push it down over the top of the pot. The top of the sack will then be turned down a little over the outside of the pot, a part of it covering the " nose," and keeping in all the aroma, the elasticity of the wire caus- ing it to close tight around the pot, holding the sack close to its sides. Instead of a wire (which must be removed to wash the sack after using), a tape may be used by tying the ends after turning the top of sack down. When the sack, with the coffee in it, is in its place, pour the boiling water slowly over the coffee, that the infusion may be stronger, close the lid tightly, and let simmer (not boil) fif- teen minutes to half an hour. In pouring for the table raise the sack off the nose, letting it remain in the pot or not. This makes good coffee without eggs or anything else to settle it. Good clear coffee is made without the filter, but on the same principle, by putting the coffee in a well-made and closely tied muslin bag, so that noggj- of the grounds may escape and inuddy the coffee, which is ::s^^<^ in any clean pot and boiling water poured over. Let it coj%gf ^jjl^fe boiling point, and stand a few moments to settle. Shgft^^ljjii^fo^j^f so rapidly enough, pour a few tablespoons cold wa{eg'jgyjj|^tbftf Jltar 204 DRINKS. side edge of the coffee-pot. It is advisable to tie a thread to the bag with which to remove it from the pot. MAKING TEA. "Polly put the kettle on, and we'll all take tea." Of all "cups that cheer," there is nothing like the smoking-hot cup of tea, made with ioiling water, in a thoroughly scalded tea-pot, which is thus both cleansed and heated. Put into the pot the re- quired amount of tea, allowing one teaspoon tea and one tea-cup water for each person, or one gill tea for five persons, though some who like it very strong add "one for the pot," while the rule of oth- ers is one teaspoon tea to two cups water, pour over it boiling water, cover the tea-pot so that no steam may escape, and allow the tea to stand in a hot place and infuse, not boil, for seven minutes, when it should be poured at once into the cups, or instead of pouring over the tea all the water needed at first, only pour from a half to three- fourths pint, or simply cover the tea and let it stand to infuse in same manner, then add remainder of boiling water and serve. If allowed to infuse longer than this time, which is sufficient to draw out the strength of the leaf, the tannin is developed, which gives an acrid, bitter taste, and, being a powerful astringent, is destructive to the coating of the stomach. The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is actually hoiling, as the leaves wiU not open, and the flavor not be extracted from them ; the beverage will conse- quently be colorless and tasteless, — in fact, nothing but tepid water. Where there is a large company, it is a good plan to have two tea- pots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot ; the tea, besides, will go further. When the infusion has been once completed, the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength ; so, when more is required, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, and fresh tea made in the usual manner. Tea is one of those luxuries which custom clothes iii the gar- ments of necessity. There is, however, in connection with tea one point which should not be forgotten. To maintain ordinary health the body requires immediate nourishment early in the morning, and for that reason tea, which retards the action of the natural functions, should be banished froni the breakfast table, and should appear at^ lunch and after dinner. Certain rules should be foUowed by habit- ual tea-drinkers, if they wish to use their favorite beverage without DRINKS. 205 njurious effects : After a full meal, when the system is oppressed ; for the corpulent and the old ; for hot climates, and especially for those who, living there, eat freely, or drink milk or alcohol ; in cases of suspended animation ; for soldiers and others marching in hot climates ; for then, by promoting evaporation and cooling the body, it prevents in a degree the effects of too much food, as of too great heat . It is a mistake to make tea strong, if the full flavor is desired. Professional tea-tasters use but a single pinch to a cup of boiling water. In China and Russia, where tea is made to perfection, it is very weak, boiling water being poured on a few leaves, the decoction covered for a few minutes, and then drank hot and clear. Two minutes is long enough for tea to stand, and it should never be boiled, or the fine aroma which exists in the volatile oil will be thrown off by evaporation, leaving as flavoring only the principle of the tannic acid extracted by boiling. If tea be ground like coffee, or crushed immediately before hot water is poured upon it, it will yield nearly double the amount of its exhil- arating qualities. Freshly boiled soft water is the best for either tea or coffee, and the tea should be added as soon as it boils, as boiling expels all the gases from the water ; but if soft water can not be had, boil hard water from twenty to thirty minutes before using ; the boiling drives off the gases in this case, but it also causes the lime and mineral matters, which render the water hard, to settle, thus softening it ; and to avoid the limy taste often in water boiled in a tea-kettle, put a clean oyster shell in the kettle, which will always keep it in good order by attracting all particles that may be impreg- nated in the water. If hard water must be used in making tea, a little carbonate of soda put into the tea-pot will both increase the strength of the tea and make it more nutritious, the alkali dissolving the gluten to some extent. The best tea-pot is that which retains heat longest, and this is a hright metal one, as it radiates the least heat, but the metal must be kept bright and polished; some still pre- fer the old-fashioned earthen pot. The most elegant mode of serving tea is from the tea-urn, various forms and designs of which are made in silver and plated ware. Always have a water-pot of hot water on the waiter with which to weaken each cup when desired. To insure " keeping hot " while serving in a different tea-pot from that in which the tea is made, the simple contrivance known as the •' bonnet," or " cozy," is warranted a sure preventive against that. 206 DRINKS. most insipid of all drinks — a warmish cup of tea. It is merely a sack, with a loose gathering-tape in the bottom, large enough to cover and encircle the tea-pot, with a small opening to fit the spout, and a slit though which the handle will be exposed. Make it with odd pieces of silk, satin or cashmere, lined, quilted or embroidered ; draw( this over the tea-pot as soon as the tea is poured into it ; draw up the gathering, string tightly at the hot- Tea or cofree si«nd. tom, and the tea will remain piping hot for half an hour. Some make a simple, quilted, oval case entirely covering the pot and reach- ing quite to the teapot stand, lifting it off each time the tea is poured. The tea-float is a very useful addition to the tea-pot. The tea is placed in the float, and the float in the tea-pot. Boiling water is added as in ordinary tea-making. The float rises to the surface and thus retains the tea at the hottest part of the water, instead of its sinking to the bottom, which is the coldest part. By this applica- tion of natural laws and the chemistry of tea-making all the strength of the tea is withdrawn, and the infusion is far stronger than when prepared in the usual way. A smaller quantity of tea is therefore required when the tea-float is used. The float can be procured of any grocer or tea dealer. Some consider high priced teas less desir- able for general use than the medium qualities, both on account of their prices, and because, owing to their purity and strength, they abound in deleterious properties. The tea-pot should not only be emptied after being used, but made perfectly clean inside as well as outside. After a thorough wiping turn it upside down, that the drops may run from the spout, and when ready to be put away twist the corner of the towel and wipe the inside of the spout, and put the tea-pot in its place with the cover raised ; when it is again required pour in boiling water to heat it thoroughly. It is well to keep a small tea-kettle for the express purpose of boiling water for tea, thus surely avoiding for this delicate drink the water which has boiled and re-boiled repeat- edly during the day for filling up the various kettles. The green teas are the Gunpowder, considered the best, and Hyson sorts, with their difl"erent varieties, both of which are manu- fiwtured in China and Japan, while only the former is obtained from DEINKS. 207 Java. The black teas are manufactured in China, Assam and Java, and from the two former countries come the Congo and Pekoe sorts under the latter of which the Oolong, a general favorite, and Souchong varieties are classed. Java exports the Congo, and also a black tea made up into little balls the size of a pea, known as the Imperial. India gives the English Breakfast and Caper varieties. As is now well known the difference between green tea and black lies in the fact that in the former fermentation has been arrested by " firing, " the color of the leaf being in this way partially preserved and fixed, while with the latter, by a much longer process, fermen- tation up to a certain point is permitted, and the leaves are not "fired" until they have become oxidized by exposure to the air. Only green tea is manufactured in Japan, and is considered superior to that of China and Java, where the black teas are principally produced. The Chinese give an artificial coloring to the green teas exported, em- ploying for this purpose native indigo and gypsum. In Japan, tea is not grown for export only, but is the chief article of home consumption ; and the domestic teas as procured in that country are probably the only samples of unadulterated green tea to be had, and are known as the green Japan and uncolored Japan. In common usage Japan tea means the green variety, which is used largely in tea mixtures, while the uncolored is used more voften by itself as is also the Gun- powder and Hyson. The first pickings of teas are considered choic- est, containing more of the oil, and prices are established in that way, consequently each variety will have a first, second and third grade. A cup of the finest tea will show particles of the oil upon its surface. The Chinese employ numerous odoriferous plants for the pur- pose of giving special scents to different varieties of tea. Some mixtures well liked are as follows, and it is most generally conceded that mixed tea is preferable : An excellent English mixture of black teas combines cheapness with fineness of flavor, and is composed of one pound of Congo tea with a quarter pound each of Assaiji and Orange Pekoe ; a mixture of black and green teas is four parts of black to one of green, but a very fine mixture in point of flavor is one-half Oolong (black), one quarter each Gunpowder and green Japan, or three-fourths green Japan and one-fourth Oolong, or three- fourths English Breakfast and one-eighth each Gunpowder and green Japan-; or half each English Breakfast and any green tea. Wher« JJ 208 ■ DRINKS. a mixture of uncolored Japan is used it is with an equal part of Oolong. Where health is taken into consideration the mixture using less of the green should be preferred, as owing to the different process of drying the green contains more ^ of the injurious tannin. To preserve the strength of tea or coffee requires I a close receptacle. Nothing is better than the tin| cans with close covers, japanned on the outside sur- face, kept for sale for this purpose. They are made { neatly labeled on the side for "tea" or "coffee," so that there is no mistaking the one for the other, and no loss of time in getting what is wanted. CACAO AND CHOCOLATE. Cacao (improperly called cocoa) and Chocolate, are obtained from the seeds of Theobroma cacao, a small tree that grows in Mex- ico, Central America, the West Indies and other islands. The seed receptacle resembles a large black cucumber, containing from ten to thirty beans, which are roasted like coffee. The husks are then taken off, and are called cacao shells. The best cacao is made from the bean after the husks are removed. Cacao is rich in nutritive elements. Like milk, it has all the substances necessary for the growth and sustenance of the body. The active principle is theobromine, a substance which resembles the alkaloids of coffee and tea, except that it contains more nitrogen than theine and caffeine. Another important difference between cacao and coffee or tea is the large amount of fat or cacao-butter contained in the kernel. These kernels consist of gum, starch and vegetable oil, and are marketed in four different forms : cacao shells, which are the husks of the kernel ; cacao nibs, the crushed kernel ; ground cacao, the kernels ground fine, and chocolate, the kernels ground to a fine powder and mixed to a stiff paste with or without sugar, g,nd sometimes a little starch. It is very nutritious, but be- ing rich in fatty matters is difficult to digest. For this reason many skim off the oil that rises to the surface as the beverage cools after boiling, and some manufacturers now remove the fats. A small cake weighing about two ounces will satisfy hunger, and is a good lunch for travelers, especially if eaten with fruit. Cacao and chocolate- while very nutritious, are perfectly free from the possible injurious DRINKS. 209 influences of tea and coffee ; and the more finely powdered they are "the more palatable and nutritious are the beverages made from them. Actual boiling is advantageous in the preparation of either, as it thoroughly incorporates them with the liquid used. Nearly all brands of cacao and chocolate are recommended to be prepared at "table ; but it is much better to prepare them before the meal, and allow to boil a minute or two before serving. But too long boiling spoils the flavor. The custard kettle should be used in making I cacao or chocolate, especially when milk is used, thus preventing the possibility of burning. A good proportion is one tablespoon of either cacao or grated chocolate to each person, with one-half pint milk, cream and milk, or milk and water, as used. If sweetened be- fore sending to table, the sugar must be stirred in after it has boiled, and a grain of salt is added by some after taking from the fire to remove the flat taste noticed. Excellent brands of chocolate are Baker's, Runkle's and Blooker's ; the two former come in cakes, both sweetened and unsweetened, and the latter in a fine dry powder, ready for use, which saves the trouble of grating and is preferred by many. Allow a large teaspoon of the powder to each cup milk, and mix to a paste with a little cold milk, then add boiling milk. In the preparation of the above, and all beverages and foods, be sure that the water used is pure and fresh. If there is any reason to suspect that it is not, have it boiled before using. As several pints of water are daily taken into the body, this is one of the most impor- tant foods we have, and good water should be one of the indispen- sables in every household. Distilled water is the nearest ally to abso- lutely pure water, but can not be prepared by any easy process at home and is made chiefly by chemists and druggists in their trade. It is sometimes very essential in illness. The purest waters we get in a natural state are, it is said, melted ice and snow. Rain water con- tains gases it absorbs in passing through the air, but is the best and purest water to use when filtered ; spring or well water, though usually looking transparent enough and tasting well, is impregnated with saline matter ; river water has a smaller quantity of saline mat- ter than spring water, but its organic impurities are in all likelihood far greater, and before it can be utilized for drinking it must have its impurities removed by filtering. Filters are now comparatively inex- pensive, and every family valuing health should possess one. There are many good ones, the new upward filter possessing some advan- 14 210 DRINKS. tages over other kinds. To cool water without ice, put it into an earthen jug with a wet cloth wrapped about it, and hang in an open window where a breeze is blowing through ; the evaporation from the surface of the jug abstracts the heat from the water within. Broma. — Have three pints milk, or half milk and water, scald- ing over boiling water ; mix two or three tablespoons broma smooth with a few spoonfuls boiling water, and when the milk is hot stir it in, having first mixed half a gill or more of milk with the broma ; leave . it ten minutes, or until slightly thickened, then serve. Cacao Nibs. — Put a gill of the cacao nibs in a pot with two quarts water, and boil gently one and a half to two hours. There should be a quart of liquid in the pot when done. If the boiling has been so rapid that there is not this quantity, add more water, and let it boil once again. Many people prefer half broken cacao nibs and half shell. If the stomach is delicate, this is better than all nibs. Sugar and cream are used, as with coffee. When making Cacao Shells use twice the quantity of shells, or less may^ be used with same amount water, and boil as above ; or, if milk is liked, put over the fire with one quart water, and when nearly done add a quart milk. Chocolate. — Take six tablespoons scraped chocolate, or three of chocolate and three of cacao, dissolved in a quart boiling water, boil hard fifteen minutes, add one quart rich milk, let scald and serve hot ; this is enough for six persons. Cacao can also be made after this recipe. Some boil either cacao or chocolate only one minute and then serve, while others make it che day before using, boiling it for one hour, and when cool skimming off the oil ; when wanted for use, heat it to the boiling point and add the milk. In this way it is equally good and much more wholesome. Chocolate. — For twelve people take six ounces chocolate, pour over it one pint boiling water, add eight ounces sugar and cook until it becomes a smooth paste. Then add enough sweet cream for the uumber of cups. Heat the whole in a custard kettle and it is ready for use. This will of course be very rich. Meringued Chocolate. — Three pints fresh milk, three table- spoons Baker's chocolate, grated, two tablespoons sugar, powdered for froth. Heat milk to scalding. A\^et up chocolate with one cup boiling water and when the milk is hot stir this into it. Simmer gently ten minutes, stirring frequently. Boil up briskly once, take from the fire, sweeten to taste, taking care not to make it too sweet, and stir in the whites of two eggs whipped stiff, without sugar. Pour into the chocolate pot or pitcher, which should be well heated ; have DRINKS. 211 ready in a cream pitcher the well-whipped whites of three eggs with three tablespoons powdered sugar. Cover the surface of each cup with the sweetened meringue before distributing to the guests. If liked, substitute scented chocolate for Baker's. Vienna Chocolate. — Put into a coflfee-pot set in boiling water one quart of new milk (or a pint eaclr of cream and milk), stir into it three heaping tablespoons grated chocolate mixed to a paste with cold millc, let it boil two or three minutes, and serve'at once if pos- sible, but if it has to stand a moment or two longer, set where it will keep hot, but not boil. If not wanted so rich use half water. Serve with sweetened whipped cream over the cups. Whipped Chocolate. — Wet three tablespoons chocolate with a little boiling water ; scald one quart milk, stir in the chocolate paste and simmer ten minutes ; put a whip-churn into the boiling mixture and churn steadily over the fire until it is a yeasty froth. Serve at once. Very delicious and easily prepared; or, melt four ounces grated chocolate over a boiling kettle, add gradually three cups boil- ing water and one ounce sugar. Set it upon the fire, and when scalding hot pour it upon the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, with one and one-half gills cold water, and a pinch of cinnamon, and re- turn it to the fire for a few moments to cook the egg. It must not boil, but should be beaten with an egg-beater all the time. Serve very hot. Army Coffee. — Coffee (or tea) may be made quickly by placing the required quantity of cold water in the pot and adding the coffee tied up in a sack of fine gauze or piece of muslin. Bring to boiling point, boil five minutes and serve. Make Tea in the same way, except that the tea is nut loose in the water and simply allowed to boil up once. Blade Coffee. — It is well to make in a pot with a filter. Use one cup ground coffee to every quart boiling water ; put the coffee into the filter and pour the boiling water through it very gradually ; let it stand where it will keep hot while the water is being poured upon it ; do not stir or shake the coffee-pot, and serve the coffee as soon as all the water is added. When the black coffee is wanted strong and bitter, it may be boiled for a few moments. Serve in " after dinner " coffee-cups at the close of the meal or in the parlor in half an hour. Clear Coffee. — Coffee can be made without straining or clarify- ing, in any kind of tin or iron vessel, in this way : Have ready water that is actually boiling ; heat the coarsely ground coffee one minute in a frying-pan, stirring all the time. For one quart use two table- spoons ground coffee. When coffee is hot pour boiling water upon it and stir with a spoon one minute ; let stand by. side of fire where it wiU keep hot but not boil, for one minute, then stir it again for 212 DRINKS. one minute ; keep by the fire for two minutes to let it settle, then pour it into cups carefully enough to leave the grounds in the bottom of the coffee-pot. The object in stirring is to thoroughly saturate the coffee with the boiling water, so that the grounds will sink to the bottom by their own weight. Crust Coffee. — Brown in oven to almost charring,outside crusts, slices or any small pieces of white, rye or Graham bread (the latter is richer and gives a finer flavor), being as careful as in roasting coffee that it is not burned. Make in proportion of two quarts hot water to four or five slices, or their equivalent in small pieces, boil from an hour to an hour and a half and serve as other coffee, which it should resemble in color. Make as second recipe for Iced Tea and Iced Crust Coffee will result. Iced Coffee. — Make more coffee than usual at breakfast time and stronger. Add one-third as much hot milk as coffee and set away. When cold put upon ice. Serve as dessert with cracked ice in each tumbler. Or, make strong coffee and when it is cold mix it with an equal quantity of fresh cream, sweeten to taste and half freeze. Iced Tea may be made the same way. Imperial Coffee. — For two persons, take four rounding tea- spoony coffee tied up in a piece of Swiss, muslin (leave plenty of room for expansion) ; pour on two cups boiling water, cover closely, and set back on the range about ten minutes. Break one egg in a large coffee-cup, give it a good whip with an egg-beater, divide it half in each cup, add the usual quantity of sugar, pour on the hot coffee, add warm milk and one spoonful cream. Steamed Coffee. — Put coffee into the pot and pour boiling water on lit; place this pot (which is made to fit) into the top of the tea- kettle and let cook from ten to twenty minutes while water in kettle is kept boiling all the time. This makes a clear, delicious coffee. Yienna Coffee. — Filter instead of boiling the coffee, allowing one tablespoon ground coffee to each person and " one for the pot." Put a quart of cream into a custard kettle or pail set in boiling water and put it where it will keep boiling. Beat the white of an egg to a froth and mix well with three tablespoons cold milk. As soon as the cream is hot remove from fire, add the mixed egg and milk, stir together briskly for a minute and then serve. 'Warmed-over Coffee. — Save all that is left after each meal, drain it off into a jar or earthen vessel, and when there is enough, for a single meal, turn it into the coffee-pot, beat an egg thoroughly and stir well into it on the stove, and let it just come to boiling j then take it off, pour in half cup cold water, and if the coffee wa& good when first made, it will be just as good the second time. When a large quantity of coffee has been made for a party, the grounds DEINICS. ' 213- should be drained and put away in a stone jar ; make coffee as usual except using double the quantity. They will keep good for weeks Whipped Cream Coffee. — For six cups of coffee of fair size^ take one cup sweet cream whipped light with a little sugar; put into each cup the desired amount of sugar and about a tablespoon boil- ing milk ; pour the coffee over these and lay upon the surface of the hot liquid a large spoonful of £he frothed cream, giving a gentle stir to each cup bef9re serving. This is an elegant French preparation. Chocolate served in this way is delicious. White Coffee. — Use coffee that instead of being browned is only baked to a light yellow color and is not ground, or at most the berries are only bruised, taking one-half milk and one-half water. It requires twice as much coffee as the ordinary. For eight cups take two cups light baked coffee berries, four cups boiling water, five cups boiling milk. The berries may have been parched before, but when wanted heat them over again and throw them hot into the boiling water, close the lid and let stand to draw for one-half hour, then add the boiling milk through a strainer. When the milk is first set on to boil, put in a tablespoon or two of sugar to prevent burning at the bottom. Serve sugar with the coffee as usual, and, if for a party, a spoonful of whipped cream in each cup. Wine Coffee. — Put three ounces finely-powdered coffee in the top compartment of the percolator or coffee-pot, pour a quart boil- ing water over it, let filter through, add half a pint more boiling water ; let filter through, and pour it out into & hot measure, and pour through the filter again. Let stand a moment on the range, and the coffee will be clear as wine. Care must be taken to have everything used very hot. Cafe au Lait. — First heat the coffee-cups and then fill each one-third full of hot but not boiled cream, filling up with good clear coffee. Or when cream cannot be had use boiled milk, in any proportion liked, being guided by the strength of the coffee. Half and half is a good rule, though some prefer more and others less coffee. A little cream turned into the cup with the hot milk just before filling up with coffee is a great improvement. Frothed Cafe au Lait is made as above, putting spoonfuls of the whipped whites of eggs, slightly sweetened, on the top of each cup, heaping a little in the center. Coffee for One Hundred. — Take five pounds roasted coffee,, grind and mix with six eggs ; make small muslin sacks, and in each place a pint of coffee, leaving room for it to swell ; put five gallons boiling water in a large coffee urn or boiler having a faucet at the \)ottom ; put in part of the sacks and boil two hours ; five or ten minutes before serving raise the lid and add one or two more sacks, and if you continue serving several times add fresh sacks at regular 214 DRINKS. intervals, taking out from time to time those first put in and filling up with boiling water as needed. In this wajr the full strength of the cofi"ee is secured and the fresh supplies impart that delicious flavor consequent on a few moments' boiling. To make coffee for twenty persons, use one and a half pints ground coffee and one gal- lon of water. Coffee Syrup. — Take half pound best ground coffee, put it into a saucepan containing three pints water, and boil it down to one pint ; boil the liquor, put it into another saucepan, well scoured, and boil it again. As it boils add white sugar enough to give the con- sistency of syrup ; take it from the fire, and when it is cool put in a bottle and seal. When traveling, if you wish for a cup of good coffee put two teaspoons of the syrup into an ordinary cup, and pour boiling water upon it, and it is ready to use. A weaker syrup is made thus : To every quarter pound ground coffee allow one small teaspoon powdered chicory, and one pint water. Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly roasted ; put it into a filter with the chicory and pour slowly over it the above proportion of boiling water. When it has all filtered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the simmering point., but do not allow it to boil ; then filter it a second time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it will remain good for several days. Two table- spoons of this essence are quite sufiicient for a breakfast cup of hot milk. This essence will be found particularly useful to those per- sons who have to rise extremely early, and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily and quickly prepared. When the es- sence is bottled, pour about three tea-cups of hailing water slowly on the grounds, which, when filtered through, will be a very weak coffee. The next time thiere is essence to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the ground coffee instead of plain water ; by this means a better coffee will be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without having made use of them in this manner, and always cork the bottle well that contains this preparation, until the day that it is wanted for making the fresh essence. Iced Tea. — To have it perfect and without the least trace of bit- ter, put tea in cold water hours before it is to be used, the night pre- vious if for breakfast or twelve-o'clock dinner, and in the morning if for tea ; the delicate flavor of the tea and abundant strength will be extracted, and there will not be a trace of the tannic acid which ren- ders tea so often disagreeable and undrinkable. Use only the usual quantity of tea. Put broken ice in it a few minutes before serving. Iced tea can be served with a light froth like that of ale on top, if shaken with the ice in it in two glasses placed one over the other — the brims together. Another method is to prepare tea in the morning, making it stronger and sweeter than usual ; strain and pour into a clean stone jug or glass bottle, and set aside in the ice-chest until DRINKS. 215 ready to use. Drink from goblets without cream. Serve ice broken in small pieces on a platter nicely garnished with well-washed grape- leaves. Iced Coffee may be made same way. Iced tea may be prepared from either green or black alone, but it is considered an improvement to mix the two. Tea made like that for iced tea ( or that left in the tea- pot after a meal) with a slice or two of lemon, juice of half a lemon, to each glass, well sweetened, and some pieces of cracked ice, makes a delightful drink, and is called Lemon Tea. Tea for Forty. — Have two and one-half gallons boiling water ready, put a quarter pound tea in a box made of perforated tin, or in a rfiuslin bag, and drop it into the water, which must then be kept from boiling and set where it will be kept hot. May be served like coffee with whipped cream or a meringue of whites of eggs on each cup. Tea au Lait. — Beat a teaspoon or so of sugar with the whijpped white of an egg ; stir in a glass of new milk and then a cup very hot tea, beating all up well together and sweetening to taste. A very palatable mixture and valuable for persons who suffer much from weakness. Strawberry ^c^<^.— ^Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two quarts water and pour it upon twelve pounds strawberries in a por- celain kettle ; let it simmer forty-eight hours, strain, taking care not to bruise the fruit ; to every pint juice add one and one-half pounds sugar and stir until dissolved, then leave it a few days ; bottle and cork lightly ; if a slight fermentation takes place leave the cork out a few days, then cork, seal and keep bottles in a cold place. Drink, mixing desired quantity with ice water. To make Royal Strawberry Acid take three pounds ripe strawberries, two ounces citric acid and one quart water ; dissolve the acid in the water and pour it over the berries ; let them stand in a cool place twenty-four hours, draw off, and pour in three pounds more berries and let stand twenty-four hours ; add to the liquor its own weight of sugar, boil three or four minutes each day for three days, then cork tightly and seal. Keep in a dry and cool place. leed Buttermilk. — There is no healthier drink than buttermilk, but it must be creamy, rich buttermilk to be good. And to provide for this, when skimming the milk take plenty of milk with the cream, using a dipper for the purpose instead of a skimmer. It should stand on ice to cool, though if very rich and thick a little ice in it is an improvement. As a drink for men at work in the hot sun butter- milk is far preferable to cider or beer, as it is not only cooling and refreshing, but strength-giving ; for the butter taken from the mdlk is only the carbonaceous or heat-producing element, and all the nourishing qualities that make it so valuable as food are left in the buttermilk. 216 DEINKS. Cider. — Cider should be made from ripe apples only, and for this reason, and to prevent fermentation, it is better to make it late in the season. Use only the best flavored grafted fruit, rejecting all that is decayed or wormy. The best mills crush, not grind, the apples. The utmost neatness is necessary throughout the process. Press and strain juice as it comes from the press through a woolen cloth into a perfectly clean barrel ; let stand two or three days if cool, if warm not more than a day ; rack once a week for four weeks, put in bottles and cork tightly. This will make perfect unfer- mented cider. Do not put anything in it to preserve it, as all so- called preservatives are humbugs. Lay the bottles away on their sides in sawdust. Bottled Cider.— 'Take good sweet cider (if a tart flavor is wished let it just begin to ferment), put on stove, sMtti thoroughly (as the great secret is to remove all pumice from the cider), heat to boiling point; but do not allow it to boil, and then pour in bottles or jugs, and seal while hot. Some put two or three raisins in each bottle or jug. This keeps all winter. It certainly makes a richer drink than when fresh, and as cider is pronounced a great remedy for colds, all should know this simple way of keeping. Mulled Cider. — Dilute cider with an eijual quantity of water, and for every two quarts mixture allow the yolks of three or four eggs ; beat eggs smooth, mix with a little cold cider, stir into the diluted cider and boil up, stirring rapidly all the time, using the whip-churn or egg-beater as in Whipped Chocolate. Sweeten to taste and season with allspice; unground, and drink either hot or cold. Gurry Cordial. — Boil one pint good milk and add a teaspoon curry powder and sugar to taste. Drink while hot. Good on a frosty morning. Raspberry Cordial. — Three quarts black raspberries and one quart vinegar ; let stand in stone jar two or three days, mashing thoroughly, strain, and to every pint syrup add one pound white sugar and set in cool place, stirring frequently. When the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, strain and bottle. No cooking is required ; it destroys the fruit flavor. For use, mix in a glass with ice-water ac- cording to taste ; nice in hot weather, or in sickness, particularly fevers. Almond Cream. — Wash, and pound in a mortar two ounces Jor- dan almonds, one-half ounce bitter almonds, that have been scalded and skimmed., together with a tablespoon orange-flower water and two ounces loaf sugar. Add a few drops water occasionally, while pound- ing, to avoid too much oiliness. When this mixture looks smooth and creamy, put it into a clean basin, add one pint water and stir with a silver or thin wooden spoon. Leave it thus two hours, wheu DRINKS. 217 strain off the cream, which should be kept either on ice, or in some exceedingly cool place, or it will perhaps turn sour. Serve with an equal quantity of water. Currant Cup. — ■T'o a pint currant juice add one pound sugar, and ice-water to taste ; mix and use at once. Fruit Cup. — Pare the yellow rind very thinly from twelve lem- ons, squeeze the juice over it in an earthen bowl, and let it stand overnight if possible ; pare and slice thinly a very ripe pine-apple, and let it lay overnight in a half pound powdered sugar ; crush one quart berries and let them lay overnight in half pound powdered sugar. If all these ingredients cannot be prepared the day before they are used, they must be done very early in the morning, because the juices of the fruit need to be incorporated with the sugar at least twelve hours before the beverage is used. After all the ingredients have been properly prepared as above, strain off the juice, carefully pressing all of it out oi the fruit ; mix it with two pounds powdered sugar and three quarts ice-water, and stir until sugar is dissolved. Then strain again through a muslin or bolting-cloth sieve and put on the ice or in very cool place until wanted for use. Harvest Drink. — One quart water, tablespoon sifted ginger, three heaping tablespoons sugar, half pint vinegar ; add spices to taste if wished. Jelly Drink. — A little jelly or fruit syrup dissolved in a glass of ice-water with a little sugar is a refreshing drink. Lemon Drink. — Seven pounds white sugar, two quarts boiling . water ; let boil ten minutes, then take off and let stand till cool ; add two ounces tartaric acid, one-half ounce gum arable, fifty-four drops essence of lemon. Oatmeal Drink. — Take four tablespoons Scotch oatmeal, put into a small jug and fill up with clear, cool water ; shake well and allow it to settle. This makes a most refreshing drink in hot weather and quenches thirst more than any other liquid. • Soda Foam. — Two pounds white sugar, whites of two eggs, two ounces tartaric acid, two tablespoons flour, two quarts water aiid juice of one lemon ; boil two or three minutes, and flavor to taJste. When wanted for use take a half teaspoon soda, dissolve in half a glass water, pour into it about two tablespoons of the acid, and it will foam to the top of the glass. Lemonade. — The method of making this universally popular and refreshing beverage varies according to the taste of individuals, some liking the flavor of the rind, others not, and some preferring more, others less sugar. It will be well to remember that when the rind or peel is used the lemonade is spoiled by standing, the soaked rind giving it a bitter taste, and to be good it must be served imme- 218 DRINKS. diately after making. Instead of using cracked ice, many prefer to half freeze lemonades, sherbets, and all drinks of the kind, serving in glasses as usual, and this is considered much the more elegant way. Or the same effect may be produced by pounding ice in a bag into fine particles and add to the lemonade, previously cooled on or with ice, just before serving. Or, if necessary to prepare hastily, crack the ice into small bits and place some in the bottom of each glass before filling, beside adding it to the quantity of liquid. Always roll the lemons with the hand on the table before using, as this breaks up the fibers and the juice can then be extracted more easily and thoroughly ; and in making lemonade always remove the seeds. The best way of securing the flavor of the rind is to rub the lemons with lumps of sugar, or if there are no lumps sprinkle some of the sugar on a plate and roll the lemons over it ; this extracts the oil of the rind, and the sugar used, which is now called the "zest," is added to that intended for sweetening. Some boil the peel in a little water and strain it for flavoring, or let it stand in water an hour or two. A very nice Every-day Lemonade is made as follows : Roll six lemons well, peel, cut in halves, and with the lemon squeezer squeeze the juice over two cups white sugar, add the pulp and let stand till the sugar dissolves, add one gallon water and iumps of ice, pour into pitcher and rierve. Some add soda after the glasses Are filled, and stir rapidly for SparJi- linff Lemonade. If the flavor is liked Lemon squeezer^ add the zest from two or three of the lemons. Or, if wanted strong- er, take the juice of one dozen lemons, three quarts water, and eight ounces sugar, or sweeten to taste ; partially freeze, or add pounded ice. For Lem.on Frappee add the whij^ped whites of six eggs. Some use a half pint lemon juice to three pints water and one pint . sugar. Another excellent recipe requires one-half pound loaf sugar, three large or four small lemons, and a quart boiling M'ater. Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, on two of the lemons until thoy have imbibed all the oil from them, and put with the remainder of the sugar into a jug ; add the lemon juice (but no seeds), and pour over the whole the quart of boiling water. Wlien the sugar is dissolved, strain lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and when cool it will be ready for use; much impnivrd by adding the well- beaten white of an egg. Tiotti Friittl Lemonade is made thus : Pare the yellow rind thinly from two oranges and six lemons and steep.it four hours in a quart of hot water. Boil n pound and a half loaf sugar in three pints wat(>r, skimming until it is clear. Pour these two mixtures together; add to juice of six oranges and twelve lemons, mix and strain throujzh a jelly-bag unlil clear, and keep cool until wanted foi' use. If the bevorajie is to be kept several DRINKS. 219 days, it should be put into clean glass bottles and corked tightly. If for a small party, half the quantity will be sufficient. The juice of oranges improves any lemonade. When a lemon squeezer is not at hand slice the lemons thinly into a crock or pitcher over the sugar, let stand a few minutes and pound with the potato masher to extract the juice, add the water and strain. If it is thought that the slices of lemon add to the appearance of lemonade, cut one lemon in very thin slices for the purpose, sprinkling sugar over them, and add last, or put a slice or two in each glass. Orangeade is made same as lemonade, substituting oranges and using a little less sugar. Effervescing Lemonade. — Work into one pound granulated sugar thirty-three drops oil of lemon, and sift through hair sieve ; sift into this two and a half ounces tartaric acid and then two and a half ounces carbonate of soda. Keep the compound air-tight and perfectly dry. Use by stirring two teaspoons of it into a glass of ice-water. Buy the materials of reliable druggist, and keep in tight- ly corked bottles. Egg Lemonade. — This recipe makes fifty glasses. Eight quarts water, three pounds sugar (six or seven cups), two dozen lemons, two oranges, whites of eight or ten eggs ; grate the rinds of eight or ten lemons and the oranges into a large bowl, using a tin grater, and take less or more according to the size and degree of ripeness of the fruit. Put a little sugar in the bowl and rub together with the back of a spoon. Squeeze in the juice of all, add the sugar and some water, and then the frothed whites of eggs and beat the mixture until the sugar is dissolved. Put in rernainder of water, strain into a ves- sel containing a quantity of cracked- ice, and when served fill a glass three parts full, invert another on top, the rims close together, and shake up to make the foam. Use half or quarter of the recipe if this quantity is too large. Hot Lemonade. — To six lemons allow three-quarters pound lump sugar and a pint boiling water ; rub the lemons with some of the sugar, peel them very thin, strain the juice, put it with the sugar into a jug or pitcher and pour over it four pints boiling water ; cover the jug well with a cloth to keep in the steam and drink hot. Or, take the juice of one lemon for one glass and sweeten to taste. Excellent for a cold. Milh Lemonade. — Loaf sugar, one and a half pounds, dissolved in a quart boiling water, with half a jDint lemon juice and one and % half pints milk. Picnic Lemonade. — Roll .the lemons ; peel, and squeeze the juice into a bowl or .tumbler — never use tin — and strain out seeds, aa they give a bad taste. Boil the pulp in water, a pint to a dozen pulps, to remove the acid. A few minutes' boiling; is enough. Strain tbq 220 DRINKS. water into the juice of the lemons ; take a pound white sugar to a pint liquid, boil ten minutes, bottle, and it is ready for use. Put a "teaspoon or two of this syrup to a glass of water. Or, roll the fruit in a little granulated sugar spread upon a marble or other hard surface to obtain the zest, squeeze the lemons into a bowl, remove seeds and add sugar and zest. Bottle and add a teaspoon or two to "water as wanted. Pocket Lemonade. — One ounce powdered tartaric acid, six ounces powdered white sugar and one drachm essence of lemon ; mix and dry thoroughly in the sun, divide into twenty-four equal parts, and wrap carefully in paper ; each powder makes a glass of nice sweet lemonade. Most excellent and refreshing when traveling. Mead. — Three pounds brown sugar, one pint molasses, one- fourth pound tartaric acid ; pour over the mixture two quarts boil- ing water and stir till dissolved. When cold add half ounce essence sassafras, or flavor with fruit juices, orange or lemon peel or aro- matic herbs, and bottle. To make a nice drink put three table- spoons of it in a tumbler, half fill with ice water, add a little more than one-fourth teaspoon soda and drink while foaming. Blaokherry Nectar. — To each quart water take one pound crushed berries, a sliced lemon and teaspoon orange flower water ; mix and let stand in earthen bowl three hours ; strain thoroughly, squeezing all juice from fruit ; dissolve one pound sugar in the liquid, strain again and put on ice until ready to serve ; or half freeze it. Any other berries may be used in their season. Cherry Nectar. — Select the flnest and ripest of May-Duke or Morello cherries. Pound well with stones in them. The stones are retained because they add to the native flavor of the pulp. Press out the juice through a hair sieve, add a little water and give one boil, filter through a flannel bag, add a small quantity sj'rup, a little lemon juice and a little more water. Do not make too sweet. The tendency in all these cordials is to extinguish the sub-acids of the fruit in too much sugar. Put into a freezer surrounded by ice ; keep as cold as wished by surrounding with ice. Do not dilute it by put- ting ice into the beverage itself. Cream Nectar. — Put into a porcelain kettle three pounds loaf sugar, two ounces tartaric acid and one quart water ; set on the fire, and when^warm add the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth, stir it well for a few minutes but do not let boil. When cool, strain and add a teaspoon essence of lemon and bottle. Put two tablespoonfuls in a glass, fill it half full of cold water and stir in one-fourth tea- spoon soda. Drink while effervescing. Grape Nectar. — Stem and squeeze well two pounds Catawba grapes in a coarse cloth, add to- the juice three tablespoons loaf DRINKS. 221 isugar and when this is dissolved a cup cold water ; set on ice till cold, pour into pitcher over a lump of ice and drink at once. Add more •sugar if liked, or if grapes are not quite ripe. Very good. Welsh Nectar. — Cut the peel of three lemons very thin,*poui upon it two gallons boiling water, and when cool add the strained juice of the lemons, two pounds loaf sugar and one pound raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let stand four or five days, stirring every day, then strain through jelly-bag and bottle for present use. Orangeade. — Put thin peel of three oranges in one pint syrup (made by boiling three-fourths pound loaf sugar in one pint water). Press out the juice of twelve fine large oranges through a fine hair sieve into a crock or pitcher. Add the syrup and three pints ■cold water, mix, and let stand in ice for an hour. Lemon Sherbet. — Grate the rinds of two lemons into a bowl and squeeze in the juice ; make a boiling syrup of one pound sugar and one pint water and pour it hot over this, and let remain till cold, or as long as convenient, to extract the flavor. Then add one pint water, strain into the freezer and freeze as usual. When pretty well frozen whip whites of three eggs to a froth, stir them in, beat up and freeze again. Or soak tablespoon gelatine in a little cold water and add it to one pint boiling water ; then add pint each sugar and water and juice of five lemons and half-freeze ; or boil pint and a half sugar and three pints water half an hour ; add juice of ten lemons, strain and half freeze. For Orange Sherbet make as either of above recipes using twice as many oranges, and if not very acid add juice of a lemon. For Pineapple Sherbet use one large pine- apple or one and a half cans. Cut hearts and eyes from the fruit, chop fine and add pint sugar and juice from can and the soaked table- spoon gelatine dissolved in half pint boiling water ; then add half pint cold water and half freeze as above ; or cook fruit in pint water twenty minutes, and then pulp through a sieve ; boil a syrup of pint each sugar and water fifteen minutes and then add fruit pulp and cook fifteen minutes longer, add juice from cans and freeze. Milh Sherbet. — Boil two quarts milk; when cold put into freezer. Take the juice of six or seven lemons-:— according to size, and one pound and a' half sugar, dissolved in as little water as pos- sible. Whip whites of two eggs and stir in the milk ; add the lemon juice after it begins to freeze a little; then mix thoroughly and freeze. Pine-apple Sherbet. — One pine-apple, four lemons, two quarts water, two teacups sugar ; steep the pine-apple in the water for two hours ; strain and add the juice of the lemons and sugar ; whip the whites of five eggs, add to them three tablespoons sugar, place all in freezer and half freeze. Adding the sugar to the whites gives body to the sherbet ; it is excellent. To one-half gallon rich lemonade 222 DRINKS. add one can prepared pine-apple ; whip one pint cream and sweeten, add the whites of three well-beaten eggs and stir them both in just before freezing. Serve in glasses. Strawberry .Sherbet. — Crush a pound berries and add to them one quart water, a sliced lemon, and one teaspoon orange flower water, if at hand. Let stand in an earthen bowl for three hours ; then strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one pound powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on ice until ready to serve. Or mash two quarts berries and one pint sugar to- gether and let stand two hours, then add pint water and strain, rub through a sieve, soak a tablespoon gelatine in cold water to cover, add half pint boiling water and pour this to the mixture and half freeze. Raspberry Sherbet is made same way. For Currant Sher- bet, take pint each juice, water and sugar, one tablespoon gelatine, and juice of one lemon ; soak gelatine in a little cold water, and dis- solve it in half pint boiling water, add other ingredients and freeze ; or boil one quart water and pint sugar half an hour ; add pint cur- rant juice and juice of a lemon, let cool and freeze. Currant Shrub. — Make the same as jelly, but boil only ten minutes ; when cool, bottle and cork tight, as canned fruits. Rasp- berry, Strawberry and Blackberry Shrubs can be made in the same way ; when used, put in two-thirds ice-water ; or place currants in crock and cover with a little water ; put in a kettle of hot water and when heated through, drain, let stand overnight and finish as Rasp- berry Shrub. Gooseberry Shrub. — Pour enough boiling water over green gooseberries to cover them, and place a cloth over them ; let stand till cold, drain, and place juice on stove, and when boiling pour again over the berries, cover, cool, drain, and proceed as before. Then drain, let stand overnight, and finish as Raspberry Shrub. Raspberry Shrub or Vinegar. — Place red raspberries in a stone jar, cover with good cider vinegar, using about one quart vinegar to two gallons fruit, let stand two or three days, strain through a jelly- bag, squeezing carefully ; let stand overnight so it will become per- fectly clear ; measure and place on stove, and boil and skim until it boils up clear; add one pint sugar to every pint juice as just measured, and cook half an hour. Let stand till cold, then can and seal as directed in Canning Fruits. Some use one-third vinegar (one quart to two quarts truit) but if fruit ia juicy the above proportions make a much finer flavored shrub. Black rasjtberries may be used, or strawberries, making Strairberry S/n'iib, and l>lackberries, using for lutter only a pint sugar to one quart juii'c, making Blricl'berry Shrub. Some, after straining, let it sinuncr on back of stove two hours, while others lot boil ten minutes, in either way canning when hot, but the above method has been "tried and not found wanting." DRINKS. 223 Always procure very ripe, juicy fruit. For a drink use two or three teaspoons to one glass water, according to strength desired. Effervescing Soda. — Mix half a teaspoon powdered bicarlionate of soda thoroughly with two tablespoons syrup of any flavor liked ; add six or eight times as much cold water ; while stirring it mix in half teaspoon powdered tartaric acid and drink at once. This is for immediate use. Or mix the syrup and water in above proportions and fill into bottles ; put in each bottle half a drachm each of crystal- lized bicarbonate of potassa and crystallized tartaric acid and cork immediately. The above quantity is for soda bottles ; wine bottles will require double the quantity. Lemon Syrup. — Take the juice of twelve lemons, grate the rind of six in it, let it stand overnight, then take six pounds white sugar and make a thick syrup. When it is quite cool strain the juice into it and squeeze as much oil from the grated rind as will suit the taste, and bottle. A tablespoon in a glass of water will make a delicious drink on a hot day, far superior to that prepared from the stuff com- monly sold as lemon syrup. Or, boil two pounds loaf sugar with two pints water for fifteen minutes and put in a basin until cold. Pound one ounce citric acid to a powder and mix with it one-half drachm essence of lemon and add to the syrup, mix well and bottle for use. Two tablespoons of the syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and will be found a very refreshing summer drink. Orange Syrup. — Use fully ripe thin-skinned fruit ; squeeze the juice through a sieve and add a pound sugar to every pint ; boil slowly ten minutes, skim carefuUv, and bottle when cold. Two or three tablespoons of this in a glass of ice water will be found a re- freshing summer drink. It may also be used with melted butter for pudding sauce. Tisane. — To make Prune Tisane, take of French plums or prunes two ounces and a half; cut them in two and boil them for an hour in a sufficient quantity of water to make a quart of tisane ; strain through a sieve. Date, Fig and Jujube Tisanes are made in a similar manner. Currant Water. — Pick over one pound cur- rants and half pound raspberries and add one- half pint water, bruising or crushing all tcgether< with a M'ooden spoon. Put the pulp into a pre- serving kettle with one-half pound crushed loaf sugar. Stir over the fire till just about to sim- mer, put through a puree sieve anct add three gills syrup (made with sugar and- water as in Orangeade) and one and one-half pints water. Let cool and bottle for use. Apple Water. — Cut tart apples in small pieces, rejecting the 224 DRINKS. cores, and put over the fire in enough boiling water to cook them^ with half their weight in sugar ; simmer half an hour, strain through, a jelljf-bag, cool in ice and drink with cracked ice. Pine-apple Water. — Peel and slice a nice large pine-apple, and pound to a pulp. "When well mashed put it into a basin, pouring^ upon it one pint boiling syrup as in Orangeade, add the strained juice of one lemon, stir all together and cover. Let stand for two- hours untouched, then filter through a fine silk sieve and add a quart, water. Ice-Cream Soda Water. — Put sufficient syrup of any flavor liked and a large tablespoon ice-cream into a large tumbler ; mix together with a spoon, fill up with bottled soda water made as in Effervescing Soda and quaif at once. If desirable, pounded or shaved ice may also be added to the contents of the tumbler before the soda water is poured in. Strawberry Water. — Crush with one-half pound finely sifted sugar one pound ripd red strawberries, and put them with one-half pint cold spring water. Filter this through a sieve into a pan, adding two pints water and the juice (strained) of one lemon. EGGS. 225 EGhGS-S. There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, although the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary somewhat, and among all nations they are a favorite article of food. They are pleasing to the palate, highly nutritious, and easy of di- gestion, and are said to contain all that is required for the construc- tion and sustenance of the human body ; so that eggs, even at a fancy price, are the cheapest of food and should form part of the daily bill of fare of every family. Either eggs or cheese or the two combined are good substitutes for meat, and in combination with vegetables are capable of sustaining strength equivalent to a meat diet. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and color. Those of the. ostrich are the largest; one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed two pounds, fourteen ounces, held a pint, and was six inches deep, which is about the usual size of those ^brought from Africa. Travelers describe ostrich eggs as of an agreeable taste ; they keep longer than hens' eggs. The eggs of the turkey are almost as mild as those of the hen ; the egg of the goose is large, but well-tasted. Ducks' eggs have a rich flavor ; the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish, when set or coagulated by boiling, which requires less time than hens' eggs. Guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen. Eggs of wild fowl are generally colored, often spotted, and the taste usually partakes somewhat of the flavor of the bird they belong to. Those of land birds that are eaten, as the plover, lapwing, ruff, etc., are in general much esteemed ; but those of sea-fowl have, more or less, a strong fishy taste. The eggs 15 226 EGGS. of the turtle are very numerous ; they consist of yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. Those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food, particularly when " new-laid," and those of the bantam have a peculiar, delicate flavor. The quality of eggs de- pends much upon the food given to the hen. Herbs and grain make a much better food than grain only ; when the hens eat too 'maixy insects the eggs have a disagreeable flavor. The eggs of ducks and geese are often used in cooking, but are of too coarse a nature to be eaten alone ; those of the turkey and pea-hen are highly esteemed for some purposes, and plovers' eggs are considered a rare table deli- cacy. Eggs are employed in a great many articles of cookery, en- trees, and entremets, forming an essential ingredient in pastry, creams, custards, etc., but are considered most easily digestible when little subjected to the art of cooking. The lightest way of dressing <'ggs is by poaching. The fresher they are the better "and more wholesome, though new-laid eggs require to be cooked longer than others. Eggs over a week old will do to fry but not to boil. Do not mix eggs in tin ; always use earthenware. When eggs are wanted for boiling or packing, test them by putting in water in a vessel with a smooth level bottom ; the fresh eggs will sink quickly to the bot- tom, those that sink slowly are suspicious, and those that float are very likely to be bad ; or, those which lie on the side are good, but reject those which stand on end as bad. Still another test is to look through each egg separately toward the sun, or toward a lamp in a darkened room ; if the white looks clear, and the j^olk can be easily distinguished, the egg is good ; if a dark spot appears in either white or yolk, it is stale ; if they appear heavy and dark, or if they gurgle when shaken gently, they are "totally depraved." The best and safest plan is to break each egg in a saucer before using in cooking, and never use one the least spoiled, as if only one egg is slightly tainted it will " leaven " the whole. MAKING OMELETS. There are numerous kinds of omelets, and, if properly made, they generally give satisfaction. As a rule aii omelet is a wholesome, inexpensive dish, but yet one in the preparation of which cooks fre- ouentlv fail, owinsr to ignorance of detail.- The ingredients used Luay be varied indefinitely, but thf process is always the same. Beat EGGS. 227 the yolks lightly (twelve beats is said to be the magic number), as too much beating makes them thin and de- stroys the appearance of the omelet, then add the milk, the salt, pepper, and flour if any is used, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Some claim that salt mixed with the "°'°'" "'"'■ eggs prevents them from rising and gives the omelet a flabby ap- pearance, and so sprinkle with a little salt just before turning out on dish, or salt at table. Have the frying or omelet pan hot and dry. The best way to insure this is to put a small quantity of fat into thb pan, let it simmer a few minutes, then pour it out, wipe the pan dry with a towel, and put in a tablespoon butter or American Cooking Oil and pour in the omelet, which should at once begin to bubble and rise in flakes ; care should be taken that the butter does not burn, thereby spoiling the color of the omelet. Slip under it a thin, broad-bladed knife, and every now and then raise it up to prevent burning, but never turn, as this flattens and toughens it. As soon as the under side is hard enough to hold together, and the eggs be- gin to " set," fold over, shake the skillet so as to entirely free the omelet, carefully slide it on a hot platter, and serve at once. It should be cooked in from three to five minutes. Properly made, omelets are not exactly rolled up, but there is a knack to be learned of shaping in the pan by shaking them while cooking over to one side of pan, the side farthest away, while the handle is uplifted ; loosen the edges with a knife when it is cooked nearly enough to shake ; this is especially the case if a large pan is used, so that the eggs will cook in a small space upon one side of pan instead of spreading all over and becoming too dry, but a small-sized omelet pan, six or eight inches in diameter, is best, so that the mixture when put in pan may be at least half an inch thick. One reason of ome- lets and all fried eggs sticking to the frying-pan is allowing the pan to get too hot. They seldom stick when poured into a pan that is kept not too hot till wanted. The pan should be used for no other purpose, and should be rubbed smooth, or polished, after, using. To bake an omelet, place in the frying-pan on top of stove until it be- gins to " set" in the middle, then place in a rather hot oven ; when slightly browned, fold if liked, or turn a hot dish on top of the pan, upset the latter with a quick motion, and so dish the omelet with the under side uppermost. It should be baked in from fif-s to ten 228 EGGS. minutes. When a large quantity of eggs is used, instead of mak- ing into one large omelet, divide and make several, sending each to the table as soon as done. Three or four eggs make a good-sized omelet, either fried or baked ; some think it an improvement to add a tablespoon cream to every two eggs. Ham, chicken, and all kinds of meat omelets are made by chopping the meat fine and placing between the folds before dishing. In making vegetable (asparagus, tomato, cauliflower, etc.) omelets, cook the vegetables as if for the table ; place them in the center of the omelet just before folding, or scald a little parsley, pour off water, chop and mix with omelet just before cooking ; old cheese grated and added to a plain omelet is also a favorite dish. Baked Eggs. — Break eight eggs carefully into a well buttered dish, put in pepper and salt, bits of butter and three tablespoons cream — or some sprinkle chopped pickles, such as gherkins, cauli- flower, etc., over them ; put in moderate oven and bake about twenty minutes or until whites are well set ; serve very hot. Or, beat six eggs with one tablespoon flour and six of sweet milk ; melt a piece of butter in the frying-pan and when hot turn the whole in, and bake in very hot oven ; to be served as soon as done. A more elaborate and very elegant dish is the following : Pour enough chicken, game or veal gravy into a neat baking dish to cover the bot- tom well and stir with it a teaspoon mixed parsley and onion finely chopped. Set the dish in the oven until the gravy begins to hiss and bubble, when break six eggs into it so that they do not crowd one another. Strew bread-crumbs thickly over them, pepper and salt to taste and return to the oven three minutes longer, then pour the rest of the gravy, which should be hot, over the whole ; add more bread- crumbs as fine as dust and bake until eggs are " set." Send to table in baking dish. Or take up the eggs carefully one by one and lav them on rounds of toasted or fried bread on a hot flat dish ; add a little cream, and if liked some very finely chopped parsley and onion, to the gravy left in the baking dish, and turn it into a saucepan ; boil up once quickly and pour over the eggs. Or add to yolks of six hard- boiled eggs one pint grated bread-crumbs, two tablespoons butter and salt and pepper to taste ; fill the halved Avhites with this, put together in whole form again and pack closely in a baking dish. A little dress- ing will be left, which stir into a batter with one egg beaten light, half pint bread-crumbs and pint sweet milk ; pour this over the eggs and bake in oven until a nice brown. Baked Eggs with Ham is another delicious dish. Chop fine a cup cold ham and mix with it a cup EGGS. 229 bread-crumbs and a high seasoning of salt and pepper ; put into buttered patty-pans, set in dripping-pan and put into oven to heat ; as soon as they are hot take the pan out of the oven, break an egg into each patty-pan on the ham and bread and return to oven to' just eet the whites of the eggs, then serve the baked eggs hot in the httle patty-pans, setting each one on a tiny plate. Boiled Eggs. — In boiling, eggs are less likely to crack if dropped in -water not quite to the boiling point. They will cook soft in three_ minutes, hard in five, very hard (to serve with salads, or to slipe thin — seasoned well with pepper and salt — and put between thin slices of bread and butter) in ten to fifteen minutes . The wire egg stand for holding eggs while being boiled, and afterward for the table, is very convenient. By using this all risk of breaking the eggs when dropping them into the boiling water or fishing them out is avoided. The eggs are all put in and all removed at the same time, insuring uniformity in cooking. When a part are to be cooked longer than the rest they can be put in first, and those cooked less, afterwards, and all removed together. To^ cool the shells the stand with the eggs can be dipped for an instant in cold water. These fitands are made in several sizes, holding from wi!^%^ sund"" four to twelve eggs. There is an objection to the ordinary way of boiling eggs not generally understood. The white, under three min- utes' rapid cooking, is toughened and becomes indigestible, and yet the yolk is left uncooked. To be wholesome, eggs should be cooked «venly to the center, and this result is best reached by putting the €ggs into a dish having a tight cover ( a tin pail will do) and pour- ing boiling water over them in the proportion of two quarts to a dozen eggs ; cover and set away from the stove ; after cooking about Beven minutes, remove cover, turn the eggs, replace cover, and in six or seven minutes they will be done, if only two or three eggs ; if more, in from ten to twenty minutes. The heat of the water cooks the €ggs slowly to a jelly-like consistency and leaves the yolk harder than the white. The egg thus cooked is very nice and rich. Another method of cooking is to put the eggs on in cold water and let it grad- ually come to a boil, which will bo in about ten minutes, when they are immediately taken out and served. The inside, white and yolk, will then be of the consistency of custard. Serve in egg stand, or in a dish enfolded in a warm napkin, placing an egg glass at each plate; or if well done, shell and halve quickly and serve on hot plate with a hot French mustard poured round them, dipping a spoonful on each. Drop eggs a moment into cold water and they will shell more easily. If intended for salad leave them in the cold water for some time for the yolks to harden. 230 saos. Breaded Eggs. — Boil hard and cut in round thick slices, season with . pepper and salt and dip each in beaten raw egg, then in fine bread-crumbs, or powdered cracker crumbs, and fry in fat like doughnuts. Drain off every drop of grease and serve hot. A nice way of serving is to spread triangles of fried bread with anchovy paste,, lay them in a hot platter and arrange the sliced egg on these ; pour over all a cup drawn butter into which a raw egg has been stirred. Broiled Eggs. — Toast pieces of bread on both sides, butter, and break six eggs carefully upon them, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pass a clean red hot shovel or salamander over them until they are well set. Squeeze the juice of an orange over them, strew with a little grated nutmeg and serve as quickly as possible. Dip the toast into warmed cream and it is much more delicious. Buttered Eggs. — Break four eggs into a bowl and beat well ; put two tablespoons butter into another bowl, which place in boilmg water and stir till butter melts ; pour that and the eggs into a Uned saucepan, hold over a gentle fire and as the mixture begins to warm pour it two or three times into the bowl and back again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated. Keep stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are not, without hailing., and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed to boil it will curdle and so be entirely spoiled. Ci'rried Eggs. — Slice two onions very thin and fry in butter to a nice brown, add a tablespoon curry powder and one pint good broth or stock, stew till onions are quite tender, add a cup cream thickened with arrowroot or rice flour, simmer a few moments, then add eight or ten hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, and heat them well, but do not boil. If a white instead of a brown dish is wished the onions must be stewed in butter, and the sauce made of veal broth mixed with a little milk and flour. Pepper and salt to taste. Serve hot. Or mix two teaspoons curry powder into a paste with a little gravy from one and one-half pints, and rub it, adding the rest of gravy until it is completely incorporated ; let it then simmer gently until it is reduced to little more thali a half pint ; thicken it x^ith a little flour and butter, boil six eggs hard, cut them into slices, yolk and white together, warm up for five minutes, and serve very "hot. Another excellent recipe : Cut each egg into four slices ; put two tablespoons butter or olive oil into a frying-pan, and when well heated throw into it a large sliced onion and apple ; fry briskly till well browned ; add a cup either milk, cream, water or stock in which has been mixed a dessert-spoon strong curry-powder ; simmer about ten minutes and thicken with the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange the sliced eggs in a hot dish, pour the curry over them, or just stew them in it for a few minutes. Some epicures have the yolks only of EGGS. 231 the eggs curried and the whites minced fine to form a garnish. Tomatoes, chopped, savory herbs, celery, green peas, sliced cucum- bers, button mushrooms, fresh or pickled, orange or lemon juice, young capsicums, pickles of any kind, shred lemon rind, shallot or garlic in small quantity, or indeed almost any sort of vegetable may be employed in the curry. Fillets of anchovies may be used as a decoration round the rim of the dish, but observe that only cream or yolk of egg should rightly be made use of for thickening a curry. Deviled Eggs. — Take a sufficient number of the hard-boiled yolks of eggs, dip them first into some beaten egg, then dip them into oil and roll them in cayenne pepper and salt ; make a little tray by twisting up the corners of half a sheet of oiled writing paper, place the eggs in it, put it upon a gridiron over a clear fire and shake it about till the eggs are quite hot. Serve with equal quantities of olive oil and chetney sauce made very hot. In default of chetney sauce. Chili vinegar may be employed. Or dip the hard-boiled yolks into beaten egg well seasoned with pepper and salt, then into bread- crumbs, and drop into hot lard until browned over. Forcemeat Epgs. — Boil six eggs hard, and while boiling make a forcemeat by mixing a cup minced chicken, veal, ham or tongue with a half cup bread-crumbs, two teaspoons mixed parsley, onion, sum- mer savory or sweet marjoram chopped fine, and one raw egg beaten light. Take shells of eggs off carefully, divide in halves, and cut a piece of the white off" at each end that they may stand firmly when dished, and coat them thickly with the forcemeat. Set on upper grate of very hot oven to brown, and serve piled neatly on hot dish. Pour a cup of hot, rich gravy over them into which a little lemon juice has been squeezed, and serve. Or leave eggs whole, cover with forcemeat, put in a frying-basket and set into boiling fat for two minutes. Nice for lunch, tea or picnics. French Eggs. — Boil hard, remove shells, roll in beaten egg, then in cracker crumbs and fry in butter until brown. Pour over them a gravy made in pan of butter, crumbs and cream. An excellent side dish for dinner. Fricasseed Eggs. — Put a half pound stale bread and a pint milk or good meat broth seasoned with pepper and salt in saucepan and boil three minutes, mash well and mix and boil until a thin paste is made, stirring constantly; mix with this six or eight hard-boiled ^eggs, cut in slices or dice, seasoned with pepper and salt, stir over the fire five minutes and serve hot. Or put the broth on the fire in saucepan with the seasoning, adding also _^^^^^ parsley and a suspicion of onion, and let saucepm. come to a boil. Rub the slices of egg with melted butter, then roll them in flour. Lay them gently in the gravy 232 EGGS. and let this become smoking hot upon the side of the rd,nge, but do not let it actually boil lest the eggs should break. They should lie thus in the gravy for at least five minutes. Have ready upon a plat- ter small slices of nicely fried bread, lay the sliced eggs evenly upon this, pour the gravy over all and serve ho^ Fried Eggs. — After frying ham drop the eggs one by one in the hot fat and dip it over them until the white is set, or cook from three to five minutes, as liked. They may be served alone or on the ham dusted over with pepper and salt, or they may be fried in other fat and served with broiled ham, or on toast sprinkled with catsup or a sauce of any kind. Fried eggs may also be served on slices of Bologna sausage tossed over the fire in hot butter or salad oil. Placfr an egg on each piece of sausage, arrange among them some parsley leaves fried crisp, and serve as hot as possible. French cooks pour over fried eggs a hot mixture of chopped onions and bread-crumbs, a little water and a few drops vinegar seasoned with salt. The fried egg pan is very nice where it is desired to retain the shape of the egg. A FnedEggPaa. nice way of frying eggs is to have as many as are required broken in cups or saucers, and heat over the fire a frying-pan two-thirds full of fat until it smokes. Put the eggs into the smoking hot fat and fry for two minutes, putting in at once only as many eggs as will float ; as soon as they are fried take out of fat with skimmer and lay on slices of broiled ham or bacon cooked while the eggs are being fried. Serve the dish very hot. Holland Eggs. — Cook seven eggs hard and cut in long slices ; wash and clean a large herring, cut in small pieces ; take the roe from a carp or other fish and fry in butter ; butter a baking dish, put in the boiled eggs and pour over them five tablespoons cream ; on each egg put a piece of herring and some of the roe, and thus fill up the dish with alternate layers ; mix some chopped parsley with a little more cream and pour all over the eggs, and bake. Italian Eggs. — Beat six eggs, add two ounces grated Gruyere cheese, and about half tablespoon butter. Put all together on the fire until quite thick, take off and season to taste. A favorite dish in Switzerland. Nugget Eggs. — Break the shells of a dozen eggs, separate yolks from whites and keep each yolk by itself; beat whites to a froth and add a little salt, pepper and thick cream ; pour this into a well but- tered deep dish and arrange the yolks upon the top ; put the dish into a gentle oven and when set serve them hot. The whites of the eggs should have been beaten for at least a quarter of an hour. EGGS. 233 Onion Eggs. — Boil twelve eggs hard and slice ten, whites and yolks together ; fry six sliced onions in butter, drain, lay on a dish, and put the sliced eggs over them ; cover and keep hot while this sauce is made : Grate yolks of the two remaining eggs and nodx with little cream, grated nutmeg and pepper, boil up once and pour over eggs and onions. Serve very hot. A nice dish for those who Like onions. Pickled Eggs. — Pint strong vinegar, half pint cold water, tea- spoon each cinnamon, allspice and mace ; boil eggs till very hard, and take off the shell; put spices, tied in a white muslin bag, in cold water, boil, and if water wastes away add enough so as to leave a half pint when done ; add vinegar, and pour over eggs, put in as many eggs as mixture will cover, and when they are used, the same will do for another lot. If liked, ginger and cloves may be used instead of the cinnamon and mace, and some add mustard. Or after boiling (hard) and removing shell, place in jar of beet pickles and the white will become red ; cut in two in serving. Or, for sixteen eggs, take one quart vinegar, one-half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pep- per and ginger ; boil eggs twelve minutes, dip in cold water and take off shell ; put vinegar with pepper and ginger into a saucepan and simmer ten minutes ; place eggs in a jar, pour over the seasoned Tinegar boiling hot, and when cold cover closely to exclude the air ; ready for use in a month. Plovers'' Eggs. — Boil from ten to fifteen minutes, and they are good either hot or cold. Serve in napkin. Esteemed a great deli- cacy. Poached Eggs. — Break the eggs into the egg poacher or drop one at a time in salted water, to which a small lump of butter may be added, or a little lemon juice, or vinegar, using a teaspoon to a pint water ; some say drop in when simmering, others when boiling, not letting it boil again after putting in the eggs ; others have water laoiling, salt, then place it where it will stop boiling, drop in eggs, and let simmer gently till done. It is even said they will be more tender if put on in cold water and left until the water comes to a boil. Always take great care in keeping the j'olk whole. Use an egg poacher if possible. Break the egg carefully into the little cups and place them on the stand. Dip the stand into well-salted water, which has been brought to simmering point. When done each cup in shape of a shell is taken off the stand and carefully tipped over a piece of buttered toast, leaving the egg in the pretty form of the cup. If one has not a poacher, muffin rings may be placed in the water, or the cup in which the egg is broken may be turned over it, after it is dropped in the tvater ; and some cook the eggs in cups set in 234 EGGS. the hot Water ; others stir with a spoon and drop in the^ddy thus made, stirring till egg is cooked. The yolk should only be just so much done as to fix it- self firmly in the center of the white ; if the yolk is allowed to harden the" egg is quite spoiled ; if the yolks are liked whitened or filmed over, cover the pan in which the eggs ^^^ poichif. are poached, or dip the hot water on them with a spoon, as the fat is dipped over fried eggs. Take up with a perforated skimmer, when not cooked in egg poacher or cups. To serve them, toast squares of bread three-quarters of an inch thick, moisten with a little water, put a very little melted butter upon each slice, place on a heated platter, lay an egg on each square, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and if liked, a few drops vinegar or essence of anchovy. Or drain nicely and serve in individual dishes alone or over broiled ham or boiled spinach. Some put a' bit of butter on each egg. Serve with Worcester sauce if desired ; or pour hot cream over them, seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. Some poach eggs in milk, serving them in sauce dishes with some of the milk, and season- ing with pepper and salt. For Egg Vol Au Vents, fry rounds of bread from which an inner round has been cut, but not quite through, trim the poached eggs to fit the cavities thus made, and pour over them a cup of hot gravy or chicken broth. A very hand- i9ome dish is made by trimming and serving poached eggs around slices of fried beets, squeezing a little lemon juice over. For Poached Eggs with Mushrooms, mince some cold chicken and stir over the fire with a beaten egg and pepper and salt, place this first in the rounds of bread, and on top of this the poached eggs, carefully trimmed, then pour over them some sliced mushrooms that have been cooked in highly seasoned veal or poultry gravy. Spanish Eggs are poached eggs served on boiled rice, flavored with cinnamon, and seasoned with a little butter and salt. Ringed Eggs. — Roughly chop yolks of half-dozen hard-boiled eggs ; cut whites into rings ; put yolks into middle of dish, with whites round them ; lightly sift some bread-crumbs over, sprinkle essence of anchovy upon the top and add a dessert-spoon salad oil and a little red pepper, place in an oven for five minutes and serve. Scalloped Eggs.— ^oisiGO. bread-crumbs with milk or meat broth and season with salt andjjepper ; place a layer of this in a well-buttered dish ; slice some hard-boiled eggs, and dip each slice in a thick drawn- butter sauce to which a well-beaten egg has been added ; put a layer of them upon the crumbs, then a slight layer of minced ham, veal or chicken, then bread, etc., finishing with dry. sifted bread-crumbs ; EGGS. 235 bake until well heated ; or, put upon the layer of bread-crumbs a layer of minced ham, seasoned with onion and parsley ; set in oven, closely covered, until smoking hot. Have, four eggs stiflfly beaten, season with pepper and salt, add two tablespoons cream or one of melted butter, and pour this evenly upon the layer of ham. Put the dish back into the oven uncovered and bake until the egg is set. Individual Scallops are made of lightly minced hard-boiled eggs, whites and yolks together, or yolks only. Butter scallop shells, or little tins made to resemble them in shape, strew in a portion of the egg, then sprinkle some seasoned grated toast over the egg, and so on al- ternately until shells are filled ; sprinkle a little Chili vinegar on top, lay a piece of butter upon each, and place them in oven until sufficiently done. Grated Parmesan cheese, essence of shrimps or anchovies, chetney sauce, catsup, or truffles, may be added to give them the flavor liked. Scrambled Eggs. — Warm sweet milk in a deep earthen pie plate, allowing two tablespoons to each egg (or less, with a large number of eggs), add a bit of butter size of walnut, or omit the but- ter and use cream in above proportion or only half as much, and a little salt and pepper. When nearly to boiling point drop in the eggs, broken one at a time in a saucer ; with a spoon or thin-bladed knife gently cut the eggs, and scrape the mixture up from the bot- tom of the plate as it cooks. If it begins to cook dry and fast at the bottom, move the dish back instantly, shifting it over the heat as needed, or even raising it, if cooking too fast, for success depends wholly on cooking gently and evenly, proportions being of second- ary importance. Take from stove before it has quite all thickened, and continue turning it up from bottom of dish a moment longer. If served in another dish (it keeps warmer served in same) have it well heated. The mixture should be in large flakes of mingled white and yellow, and as delicate as baked custard. Or for plain scrambled €ggs omit the milk ; some beat eggs before scrambling, just enough to mix whites and yolks, and minced ham is sometimes added. Scrambled upon a plate that has been heated very, very hot and Tubbed with a bit. of butter, they, are relished by those who like eggs but little cooked? Serve scrambled eggs hot over slices of moist buttered toast, or fried bread spread with anchovy paste, if liked, and the dish is called Mumbled Eggs. Or beat up the eggs with p^gner, salt and a little chopped thyme ; rub the sauce-pan or bak- infpish with, onions before putting in the eggs, cook as above and send to table as Savory Eggs. A great variety of dishes may be made by adding to the beaten eggs (with two tablespoons milk to each egg if liked), any of the following : For savory dishes;— chopped tongue, oysters,, shrimps or prawns, preserved sardines, dfied salmon, ancko- Ties, herbs, truffles, pickles, potted meats, sausages, shred lemon-peel^ 236 EGots. onions, artichokes, shallots, asparagus tops, green peas, heets, mush- rooms, cheese, hacon, lobster spawn, dried beef cut fine, cold meat, rice, croutons, cold macaroni, or any cold vegetables ; for sweet mixed eggs the following may be employed : blanched almonds, angelica, blanched chestnuts, conserves of any kind, stoned raisins, candied orange, citron, or lemon peel, blackberries and other fresh fruits, etc. Shirred Eggs. — Place small earthen dishes, each large enough to hold an egg, in a dripping-pan with a little hot water ; put in each a bit of butter and a raw egg, taking care not to break the yolk, dust a little salt and pepper over them, set in hot oven and just harden the whites ; serve one dish to each person, sending to table set upon pretty plates. If liked each egg may be sprinkled with bread-crumbs and browned with hot salamander before sending to table. Two eggs are often served in each dish, and a nice flavor is given by sprinkling a little finely chopped ham and parsley in the dishes be- fore putting in the eggs. Any small saucers will do for this purpose, though the little scalloped shells are much prettier. Some prefer to beat the eggs before baking. Shredded Eggs. — Boil six eggs hard and cut the whites in thin strips or shreds ; make a pint of white sauce, and toast six slices of bread ; put a layer of sauce on each, then part of the white shreds, and rub part of the yolks through a sieve over all ; repeat this and finish with a third layer of sauce. Place in the oven about three minutes ; garnish with parslej^, and serve. It is said that when hard- boiled eggs are wanted for this or any other purpose, boiling them an hour or more renders them as easily digested as soft-boiled eggs. Stuffed Eggs. — Boil one dozen fresn eggs untii well done, poar oif hot water and cover with cold ; then peej and cut the eggs in halves, either lengthwise or crosswise, take out the yolks and mash them with a piece of butter size of an egg, one cup finely minced boiled ham, and a dressing of one teaspoon each black pepper and salt, a dessert-spoon each mustard and celery seed, tablespoon sugar, and three tablespoons vinegar. Mix all well together and fill the halvea whites with the mixture, press them together and serve on a glass dish garnished with fresh ten- ^ der lettuce, or serve in halves with the false yolks well round- / ed up. If wanted for picnics" wrap in tissue paper to pre- serve their form. Spread the mixture left over between thin ^^^^^ Eg,,, slices of buttered bread, and very ma^ Salad Sandwiches ^svM; or put the dressing left over on a plate, place the halved eggs on It ends downward and set in the oven to brown befere serving. EGGS. 237 Another nice dish is Creamed Eggs, made as follows : Prepare eggs as above and mash the yolks well with a little butter, onion juice and salt, fill the halved whites with this, rounding up, and place in a baking dish ; make a rich cream gravy of milk, cream and butter, seasoned with white pepper, salt and a small pinch sugar, and pour into the dish, leaving a narrow rim of the whites and the yolks of eggs showing above ; sprinkle grated cheese on the gravy, and put in the oven to brown. Serve in baking dish. Delicious. Eggs a la Maitre d'' Hotel. — Cut five hard-boiled eggs in quar- ters, lengthwise, and place in dish ; pour over them a hot gravy made of cream and milk with a little butter, a seasoning of white pepper and salt, a small pinch sugar, and a thickening of flour. Serve hot. A tablespoon chopped parsley and juice of half a lemon may be added to gravy if liked. Very nice. Egg Balls. — Pound the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs in a mortar and moisten with beaten yolks of three raw eggs, little salt, pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg. Make into round balls, and put through soup about two minutes before serving, or poach them and serve on buttered toast or with any sauce preferred. Some add a little flour to the paste before making into balls. Egg Charlotte. — Cut thin slices of stale bread divested of crust, dip into warmed butter, and line a small mold ; take enough hard- boiled yolks of eggs for the mold ; chop and add to them half their quantity of bread-crumbs soaked in cream, season with pepper, add a couple of shred shallots and place these ingredients in the mold ; beat up a raw egg with a tablespoon cream and add ; lay upon the top some thin slices of bread dipped into liquid butter and put it into a tolerably hot oven to get nicely browned ; turn it out into a dish to serve. For a Sweet Charlotte, sugar, orange-flower or rose- water, and a few blanched almonds, some shred lemon-peel, etc., should be employed instead of the shallot and savory seasoning. Egg Fritters. — Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, remove yolks,, and mix with them chopped cold chicken, lamb, veal or sardi&es, a little minced onion or parsley and a few soaked bread-crumbs ; season, and moisten with gravy or the uncooked yolk of an egg or cream, fill in the cavities level, put the two halves together, roll in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, put in wire egg-basket, and dip in boiliiig lard ; when slightly brown, serve with celery, tomato sauce, or make a sauce from lemon juice, sardines, parsley, and sliced onion, stewed in vegetable broth, and a good spoonful cream ; let all cook together and when well reduced pour over the dished eggs and serve hot ; or for six eggs make a stuffing of the yolks, two tea- spoons butter, one of cream, two or three drops onion juice and salt and pepper to taste. Fill eggs and fry as above. 238 EGGS. Egg Gems. — Mix together any kind of cold meat (chopped fine), with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs; add pepper, salt, a bit of butter and a little milk ; fill buttered gem-pans with the mix- ture, then carefully break an egg on the top of each ; season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle some very fine cracker crumbs on top ; bake eight minutes ; a. little grated cheese may be added to the cracker, if desired. Egg Mayonnaise. — Beat four eggs well with a tablespoon vin- egar, some pepper and salt, ahd by degrees add oil enough to give it the proper consistency, so that it forms a smooth cream. Slice yolks of hard-boiled eggs, mince the whiteS, pour the mayonnaise sauce over the yolks, which arrange in a dish, and place the whites in tufts round the margin, together with branches of chervil, tarra- gon, watercress, endive, lettuce, etc., or sliced pickled cucumbers. Egg Puree. — Mash yolks of six hard-boiled eggs together with one ounce butter, two tablespoons gravy or milk, and seasoning to taste ; place in buttered dish, stick small pieces boned anchovy on top, and pour over it the beaten yolk of a raw egg ; bake until quite hot, and serve immediately. Egg Sandwiches. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into moderately thin slices, and lay them between slices of bread and butter cut as thin as possible ; season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. For picnic par- ties, or when one is travelling, these sandwiches are far preferable to hard-boiled eggs au naturel. Egg Soup. — Beat yolks of four eggs with a teaspoon butter ; season well to taste, and, while stirring, pour in a pint and a half boiling-hot stock ; strain into a saucepan, put over the fire, keep stirring until it is very nearly boiling, and send to table in a small tureen. For a maigre soup, water takes the place of the stock, flavoring with either essence of anchovy or shrimp. Or take a quart good, clear, cold soup ; beat yolks of twelve eggs and whites of four, strain into the soup and mix well together ; put into a tureen, well buttered, and let it stand over a pot of boiling water, or put it into a gentle oven until properly set. Strew over it a few chopped pickled peppers (red or green), and serve quite hot. This makes a thick soup. Eggs with Cucumbers. — Pare some cucumbers and cut into pieces the size of dice. Put in a saucepan with a slice of ham, an onion stuck with cloves, and a few spoons good gravy: simmer slowly, shaking occasionally until done. Take out the nam and onion ; stir in yolks of two eggs beaten in a cup cream ; put into a dish, lay half a dozen poached eggs on top, and squeeze over some lemon juice. EGGS. 239 Egg Terrace. — Boil new-laid eggs ten minutes, shell, cut in two. and take a small slice off the ends, so they will stand. Take out ^^c©i a^ yolks and beat in a mortar, after hav- ^^Sj^m ing passed them through a hair sieve, ^jc6^^^^^^d§;^^j^i together with an equal quantity of but- (^^^^^^^^^^|a^^^ ter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, two Vsi^i^ ^^^gll ' ''^^il.=s^ y raw eggs, and a large tablespoon chop- Egg Terrace. pod paTslcy. Mlx vory thoroughly, and put in a dish. Fill the eggs with this mixture. Make some good highly flavored forcemeat (see Meats), and smooth a layer of it on a plate, place the filled eggs round it, put a second layer of the force- meat in the centre, and arrange the other eggs upon it ; baste gently with butter, and set for a few minutes in ' the oven to heat through and color the eggs. Instead of forcemeat, the stuffing may be used for the layers. Serve with tomato sauce. This dish may be served as an entree, or for breakfast, luncheon or supper. Eggs with Cheese. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices ; lay them in a buttered dish that has been sprinkled over with bread-crumbs ; upon each piece of egg lay a slice of Gruyere cheese corresponding in size ; place a good bit of butter upon each ; pepper well, sift a few bread-crumbs over, and put in oven for about five minutes. Serve hot. Eggs with Mushrooms. — Slice, fry, and drain twelve button mushrooms and two onions ; boil six eggs hard, and slice them, whites and yolks separately, add a tablespoon butter and seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole in a half pint good "gravy. Put in the- sliced yolks last, and let them remain a minute-only. Serve very hot, and garnish with thin rings of some of the white of the eggs. Or cut two mushrooms into dice and fry for one minute in a tablespoon butter ; beat six eggs, a little salt, pepper and a half cup milk or cream together and put in sauce-pan ; add the mush- rooms and three tablespoons butter and stir until it begins to thick- en ; take from fire and beat rapidly until quite thick and creamy. Pour over slices of hot toast, garnish with points of toast and serve immediately. Eggs with Peas.— Tut a pint of fresh, tender green peas into a covered vegetable dish; add four tablespoons each olive oil and water, season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, cover closely and place the dish over boiling water until the peas are done ; then make indentations on their surface with a spoon and into each of these break an egg ; beat an egg and pour upon the top ; and when well set, serve it in the dish in which it was dressed. Or boil in salt water, half pint tender green peas ; drain, and when cold, mix with the yolks of eight eggs,' and whites of four, strained and seasoned. Heat some butter in a frying-pan and put in eggs and peas. Keep 240 EGGS. stirring with a spoon till eggs are set ; turn into a dish, and serve with mint sauce. Any cold peas can he used. • Eggs with Syrup. — Make a syrup with a little more than a half pint water and two tablespoons sugar, boiling with it some thickly-sliced lemon peel ; strain through a sieve and when cold add to it yolks of eight eggs and whites of two ; mix well and flavor with orange flower water ; pour into deep dish and either put it in oven or place over boiling water until firm. Eggs with Tomatoes. — Peel a dozen tomatoes, medium size, cut up in a saucepan with a little butter, pepper and salt ; when sufficiently boiled, beat five or six eggs, and just before serving turn them into the sauce-pan with the tomatoes, and stir one way for two minutes, or until they are well done. Eggs with Vinegar. — Heat some butter in a frying-pan until of a good dark-brown color ; break six or eight eggs into a dish ; season any flavor desired, and slide gently into frying-pan. When done, turn carefully into a dish ; put a good tablespoon strong vinegar into the frying-pan, bring it quickly to a boil, pour upon the eggs, and serve hot as possible. Hen's Nest. — Boil six or eight eggs hard and cut whites from yolks in long thin strips, or shavings, set aside to warm in very gentle oven, buttering them now and then while preparing the rest. Pound a cup minced meat or fish very fine in a mortar, mixing in gradually the yolks of eggs, a teaspoon parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Hen's Ncjt. Whcu all are reduced to a smooth paste, mold with the hands into small, egg-shaped balls. Place in the center of a dish, arrange the shred eggs around them, in imitation of a nest, and send to table with small rounds of fried bread. A cup hot drawn butter sauce poured round the nest is an appetizing addition. Ox-Eyes. — Take slices, an inch thick, from good light bread or roll, and cut into circles with a paste-cutter three inches in diameter ; with a smaller cutter one and one-halfinches in diameter cut out the middle of each circle or cake, leaving the ring intact. Fry the rings in butter, a bright yellow color ; butter a dish well, lay the rings in, and pour over them enough sour cream to moiste-n well, and put, very carefully, a raw egg into each ring. Dredge with a little salt, and put a very little sweet cream on top of each egg. Set in oven, and if pretty hot cover lightly with paper. When set, the yolks being soft, they are ready to serve. Send to table garnished with parsley or water-cresses. Temperance Egg-Nog. — Beat well the yolks of two fresh eggs, add two tablespoons each powdered loaf sugar, and orange flower OMELETS. . 241 water. Stir quickly, and add a cup boiling water. Drink as hot as possible. Bread Omelet. — Boil one cup milk or cream and pour over one cup bread crumbs and let stand a few minutes, pressing through a sieve if wished. Beat lightly the y(>lks of six eggs in a bowl, add milk and bread, season with salt andpeppeT, add well- frothed whites and pour into hot pan prepared with a tablespoon butter ; finish as in Plain Omelette. Some add a little grated nutmeg and also cut in squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown, and serve. Or add one tablespoon flour, one onion chopped fine, half pint chopped parsley, pepper and salt; finish as above and serve as & French Omelette; or omit milk and flour and use only half cup bread crumbs and add three tablespoons soft butter and two of grated cold ham and a Savory Omelette will result. Less eggs may be used in any of the recipes. Cheese Omelet. — Boil in pint new milk until dissolved a half pound good rich cheese, sliced thin. Stir in four eggs beaten very light. Toast some bread, butter evenly, putting on a little mustard, keep stirring the omelet and add a little salt ; when thickened, which will be in five minutes, if fire is good, pour the omelet over the dished toast and serve very hot. Corn Omelet. — Beat three eggs lightly, separately if wished extra nice, add third cup milk, three-quarters pint sliced cold boiled corn, three tablespoons butter, season and finish as Plain Omelet. Cream Omelet. — Beat together yolks of three eggs, one and a half tablespoons corn starch and teaspoon salt. To this add half cup milk and well-frothed whites. Have the omelet pan with a close fitting cover, hot, put in tablespoon butter, when it bubbles pour in omelet, cover and place where it will not burn. Cook eight minutes, fold and turn on a hot dish, pour around it a cream sauce and serve at once. Meat or Fish Omelet. — Take cold mea,t, ham or tongue, fish, game, or poultry of any kind ; remove all skin, sinew, etc., and either cut in small pieces or pound to a paste in a mortar, with seasoning to taste of spices and salt ; then fry in a buttered frying-pan till it begins to brown, and pour the beaten eggs upon it, or beat it up with the eggs, or spread it upon them_ after they have begun to set in the pan, In any case serve hot, with or without a sauce, but garnished with fried parsley, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right proportion is one tablespoonful of chopped meat to four eggs. A little milk, gravy, or water may be added to the eggs while being beaten. Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner. For Mixed Qfvelet equal portions of cold chicken or turkey may be 16 242 , OMELETS. used with ham or tongue, seasoning if liked with a little chopped onion, pepper and sweet herbs. Put in the pan with a ladle and fry in flat cakes. Milk Omelet. — To lightly beaten yolks of three eggs add three tablespoons milk, or more if wished, and stir in lightly the well beaten whites ; cook as in first recipe, or bake in oven as described in general directions and serve as a Baked Omelet, adding salt just be- fore placing on dish. Mushroom Omelet. — Lightly fry some pickled button mush- rooms in either fresh butter or oil. When fresh button mushrooms can be obtained, they should be cleaned and dipped into lemon-juice, and afterwards either lightly fried in butter, and the eggs poured over them ; or simply, without being fried, laid upon the eggs when poured into the pan ; add a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and serve when sufficiently done. Olive Omelet. — Stone and halve a tablespoon Italian olives ; add them to the yolks of seven and the whites of five eggs, beaten up with the juice of an orange. Heat some olive-oil in a frying-pan, pour in the omelet, and directly it is well set, double it up, and serve it upon a napkin folded in a dish. Orange Omelet. — Three eggs, teaspoon each orange juice and grated rind of orange ; beat yolks and whites separately, then mix them carefully together and put in a buttered, heated frying pan. If liked, strew fresh sugar over it and glaze with salamander. Make Lemon Omelet same way. Oyster Omelet. — Cook fifteen oysters rare done in little sauce- pan separately, with a tablespoon milk, scrap of butter and thicken- ing to make white sauce of the liquor ; break the four eggs in a bowl, put in a tablespoon milk and beat with the wire egg whisk ; add a pinch of salt. Shake a tablespoon melted lard about in the large omelet frjdng pan and before it gets very hot pour in the omelet and let it cook rather slowly. When nearly done in the center place the oysters with a spoon in the hollow middle and pull over the further edge to cover them in ; slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- nish with parsley and lemon. Plain Omelet. — Put the yolks of three or four eggs into a bowl and beat lightly; add one tablespoon butter broken into small pieces ; this makes a much lighter omelet and should al-ways be added ; now gently stir in the well frothed whites and a little pepper. Have the hot omelet pan prepared with one tablespoon butter and OMELETS. 243 as soon as it bubbles, stir the omelet once or twice and pour it in ; lift it with a large two-pronged fork (a carving fork will do), carefully raising the edges with the fork as fast as they cook, and turn them to- ward the center until the omelet lies in the mid- dle of the pan in a light mass, cooked soft or °°''""- hard to suit the taste ; the inside must always be creamy. When the omelet is done to the degree desired, add salt, turn upon a hot dish without touching it with either fork or spoon, and serve at once. Another excellent method is to beat three eggs, without separating the whites and yolks, with a little salt, and pepper, and put them in- to a frying pan containing an ounce of butter, browned ; let the omelet stand for a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with a fork, and shake the pan to prevent its burning or sticking at the bottom. Five minutes will fry it a delicate brown, fold over and eerve on a very hot dish ; never cook an omelet until it is just want- ed ; the flavor may be very much enhanced by adding minced pars- ley, minced onions or shallot, or grated cheese, allowing a level tablespoon of former, and half the quantity of latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added ; the lat- ter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into small pieces. Be careful not to have omelet greasy, burnt, or too much done, and cook over a gentle fire, that the whole of the sub- stance may be heated without drying up the outside. They are some- times served with gravy ; but this should never hepoM,red over them, but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat, instead of light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavor should be delicate, and arrowroot or rice flour should be used for thickening. For Cheese Omelet make a plain omelet as above, and as soon as it begins to thicken sprinkle in three tablespoons grated cheese. A very nice Chicken Omelet is made by adding to the plain omelet just before folding a cup of cooked chicken chopped fine and and warmed in cream sauce. Potato Omelet. — Boil two tablespoons potato flour in three- fourths pint milk for half an hour, with sugar to taste, and flavor if desired. Beat separately the whites and yolks of five eggs, stir through the milk, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. Or take two mealy potatoes, mash well with enough cream to pass them through a sieve and add a little white pepper and salt (or sugar, if for a sweet omelet) ; beat six new-laid eggs, put with the potatoes ; butter a frying-pan and heat well ; pour in the omelet, and as soon as it sets tiirn over the ends and serve hot. With a sweet omelet, a little cinnamon or grated lemon peel, ginger or nutmeg, may be em- ployed. PuiT Omelet. — Stir into the yolks of six eggs and whites of three beaten very light, one tablespoon flour mixed with a cup cream 244 OMELETS. or milk, and salt and pepper to taste ; melt a tablespoon butter in a pan, pour in the mixture and set the pan into a hot oven ; when it thickens, pour over it the remaining whites of eggs well beaten, re- turn it to the oven and let it bake a delicate brown. Slip off on large plate, and eat as soon as done. Sweet Omelet. — (Baked). Mix yolks of four eggs with four heaping teaspoons powdered sugar ; add teaspoon vanilla and care- fully cut into this the well-frothed whites ; pour it on a thick metal dish well buttered and bake till brown, about ten minutes. Place dish on a hot platter and serve at once. If^ liked, dust with sugar just before placing in oven, and the chopped rind of half a lemon may be added. This may be baked in an iron frying-pan and slipped carefully upon the hot platter. Sweet Omelet. — (Fried). Mix with the beaten yolks of seven eggs two teaspoons powdered loaf-sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a little cream ; add the beaten whites, whip up all together and fry quickly so as not to scorch it ; when set, turn in the ends, sift pounded loaf sugar upon it, and glaze with a red-hot salamander or shovel ; or use sugar with any plain omelet recipe instead of pep- per and salt. For a Fruit Omelet enclose in the center any kind of jelly, marmalade or jam — currant or grape jelly is best. To make a Chocolate Omelet, put over the eggs when slightly firm a tablespoon scraped chocolate mixed to a paste with two eggs ; fold as soon as set, sprinkle powdered sugar or cinnamon over and serve. Vegetable Omelet. — Make a puree by mashing up readj'-dressed vegetables together with a little milk, cream or gravy, and some seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are cucumbers, artichokes^ onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrooms, asparagus tops, potatoes, truffles, or turnips. Prepare some eggs by slightly beating and straining them ; pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, well-buttered ; spread the puree in the center, and when perfectly hot, fold and serve. Or, cold vegetables may be merely chopped small, then fried in a little butter, and some beaten and seasoned eggs poured over. Water Omelet. — Break eggs in a bowl, stir rather than beat, and to each three eggs add a teaspoon or so cold water, salt and pepper to taste, (or salt after cooking) and a little scalded and chopped parsley. Put tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, pour in eggs, cook as above in first recipe and serve. The water makes the ome- let light and moist. Waverly Omelet. — Boil one pint and a half milk and pour it over one tablespoon each butter and flour well mixed and cook three or four minutes, stirring all the time. Let cool and then add EGGS. 245 four eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, a little salt and pour in a buttered quart baking dish and bake twenty minutes. To Keep Eggs. — Put a two-inch layer of salt in bottom of stone jar, then a layer of /VesA eggs, large end down, then salt, then eggs, and so on till jar is full, with a layer of salt at top ; cover and put in a cool place, but not where they will freeze. This is a simple, easy, and inexpensive way, and has been tested for years. Or, dip the eggs in melted wax, or a weak solution of gum, or in flax-seed oil, or rub over simply with lard, each of which renders the shell impervious to air, and pack away in oats or bran. For one's own use the latter is a good method, keeping the eggs perfectly, but it discolors the shells, and renders them unfit for market. Or, mix together three pounds quick lime, ten ounces salt, one ounce cream tartar and a gallon and a half boiling water and cover closely! This solution may be poured over the eggs the day after preparing. They will keep well but the shells will become very brittle. There has always existed a great difference of opinion as to which end down eggs should be placed in packing for winter use. A well known poultry breeder gives what seems to be a sound reason for packing them larger end down. He says : "The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not break through and touch the shell, and thereby spoil. Another thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink away. These are two important reasons deducted from experiments, and they materially affect the keeping of eggs." 246 FISH. FISH. As a food, fish ranks just below meat on the one hand and above Tegetables on the other. It is easier of digestion but less nutritious than meats, if salmon is excepted, which is extremely hearty food, and should be eaten sparingly by children and those whose diges- tion is not strong. But, though it is not recommended that fish should be the only animal food of which one partakes, its value as a part of the diet is indicated by the larger proportion of phosphorus which it contains, and which renders it especially fitted for the use of those who perform much brain work. There can be no doubt that fish might with advantage enter much more largely into our family diet than it does at present, as it would not only afi'ord a pleasant variety in fare, but would also supply certain elements of blood which are not obtained in sufiicient quantity from either meat or vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more attention from the housekeeper. The white kinds are least nutri- tious ; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most diffi- cult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those being most perfect which go straight from their native element into the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing can bring back. The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the qual- ity of fish. In general, fish are in the best condition just before they spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, being sometimes positively unwholesome. This circumstance is of FISH. 247 such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufficiently boiled, it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further hints on selecting fish see Marketing. Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all scales (if hard to scrape off these may be loosened by plunging the fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every par- ticle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be stuffed, do not split open but draw it at the gills. Rinse thor- oughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect clean- liness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to be cut "up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a lit- tle salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. To remove the earthy taste from fresh-water fish, sprinkle with salt, and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking ; rinse off", wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may be soaked overnight in cold water, changing water once or twice if very salt. To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the salt, may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally settles. When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity is purchased than is immediately wanted, the surplus should be potted, or pickled, or salted and hung up ; or it may be fried, that it may • serve for stewing^he next day. All cold fish left from any mode of 248 FISH. cooking may be used in making salads, croquettes, etc. If a portion of a salmon is not used, parboil and set it aside in the liquor, boil- ing up when wanted. It is said that fish may be preserved by sprinkling with sugar, which does not harm its flavor, and that sal- mon thus treated has a more agreeable taste. Those who live re- mote from the sea and cannot get fish hard and fresh should wet it with a beaten egg before mealing or breading to prevent its breaking. All fish which have been packed in ice should be cooked immediately after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose their flavor. To bone and skin a fish, cut down the middle till bone is reached, then cut the fillet or strip out from the side, avoiding the bone ; lay fillet on board, remove Bonine Knife. from skin by turning the blade of knife between the flesh and skin and keeping it perfectly parallel with the board and thus cutting and separating the skin and flesh. To simply bone a fish, remove back bone by running a thin sharp knife along under it, and with a smaller knife loosen and take out the long bones one at a time. Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and unwholesome when underdone, and the mode of cooking con- siderably afiects their properties as food. Plain boiling, baking, broiling and roasting appear to be the favorite methods. Nearly all the larger fresh fish are boiled, the medium-sized are baked or broiled and the small are -fried. For boiling, a fish weighing from four to seven pounds, should be chosen ; for baking, from four to nine pounds, though the best size is six or seven ; if wanted for broiling select those weighing about threa pounds and a half and split in two ; for frying, a pound to a pound and a half weight is best. The very large ones are cut up and sold in pieces of convenient size. The method of cooking which retains most nourishment is broiling, baking is next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is better than boiling. In baking or boiling place a fish as nearlj'- as possible in the same position it occupies in the water. To retain it there, shape like the letter "S," pass a long skewer through the head, body, And tail, or tie a cord around tail, pass it through body, and tie around the head. Or it may be formed in circle with tail in its mouth. Lake Superior trout and white-fish are the best for baking, and white-fish is also nice for broiling. The gudgeon is a cheap fish, rather bony, and is generally fried. The blue-fish is excellent boiled or baked with a stuffing of bread, butter and onions. Green. FISH. 249 or sea-bass are boiled with egg sauce, and garnished with parsley. Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked by dropping into boiling fat. The sheep's-head, which requires most cooking of all fish, is always stuffed and baked. The cod is undoubtedly the best fish for all purposes that comes to eastern markets, and are packed in ice and sent over the country, but because so plentiful and cheap and always to be had are not so much appreciated as other fish not so easily obtained. While all delicate fish lose flavor soon after they are caught, the cod not only retaii^s but improves in flavor if kept a day or two, with the addition of a little salt to give it firmness. The "shoulder" is most highly esteemed. As food for invalids, white-fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal fish and whiting, are the best, while flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot and flounder, are also good. In garnishing fish great nicety is required. The principal garnishes used are slices or quarters of lemon, fried or raw parsley, fresh fennel, pickles, scraped horse-radish, small pieces of toast, the liver of the fish, lobster coral, tomatoes quartered, sliced cucumber, sliced orange, fried oysters, fried gudgeons or smelts, etc. The latter when served as a garnish for a large fish should be fried in the shape of rings. This is easily done by putting tail of fish in its mouth, and holding it with a wooden tooth-pick. After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as the fried fish will hold its shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an additional gar- nish of parsley and lemon slices ; or the rings may be served alone in a circle around the side of a platter, with a tomato or a tartare sauce in the center. If Fried Parsley be used it' must be washed, and picked and thrown into fresh water ; then when the lard or drip- ping boils throw in the parsley right from the water and instantly it will be green and crisp and must be taken up at once. Fish with very good sauce is more appreciated than almost any other dish. Tke liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving ; but to each recipe is appended the proper mode of serving and gar- nishing. One of the most essential things in serving fish is to have everything hot, and quickly dished, so that all may go to the table at once. Serve fresh fish with squash and green peas, salt fish with beets and carrots, salt popk and potatoes and parsnips with either. If a fish is to be served whole do not cut off the head and tail. It also presents a better appearance to stand the fish on its belly rather 260 nsH.' than lay it on its side. Always serve fish, if possible, with its appro- priate sauce, which is an almost marvelous improvement to some kinds, reminding one of the old gentleman who used to remark that "the egg sauce was the best of the fish." Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their sweetness ; cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free from every string, rubbing them with salt, or dipping into hot water to remove the slime adhering to them. They are good except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. In cooking fish, care must be taken not to use the same knives or spoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will be tainted with the fishy flavor, and it is well to have special uten- sils for preparing and cooking fish, and used only for that purpose. ' The amateur cook should not be affrighted at the number, names and length of recipes given under this (or any other) head, but undertake any of them without fear of failure. The mode of preparing is in most cases really simple, and the directions so plain that success is sure. Instead of serving fish boiled or fried in the same old way, try some of the newer and more attractive and ap- petizing methods under baking, frying, boiling, etc., as court au iouillon, which is merely boiling the fish in a vegetable broth fla- vored with certain herbs and spices. The collared, curried and potted fish will be found very delicious changes, and are easily prepared. Some additions may be needed to the stock of spices and herbs before beginning, but once used they will be considered as indispensable as pepper and salt and be thereafter kept on hand with as little trouble, and at very small expense. The French owe their fame as cooks largely to their skill in combining ingredients, flavors and season- ings, and their artistic methods of serving, producing from bits of cold fish, meat, or vegetables and stale crusts, with the addition of condiments, dishes both handsome and delicious. Go thou and do likewise. In buying fish there is opportunity for the exercise of great care and judgment, even more than in buying meats, as freshness is essential to delicacy in fish. The sooner it is cooked after leaving the water the pleasanter the flavor. For particular directions in selecting, consult the chapter on marketing. FISH. 251 The fish to be had in the markets of all the larger cities are enumerated below ; the fresh-water during Spring and Fall, and salt- water through the Winter also. FRBSH-WATER FISH. Black Bass, Croppies, Herring, Ring Perch, Pickerel, Blue Pike, Wall-eyed Pike, Brook Trout, Lake or Mackinaw Trout, Siskiwit, Sturgeon, White Fish. 8 ALT- WATER FISH. Sea or Green Bass, Blue-Fish, Cod, Flounders, Haddock, Halibut, Salt-water Herring, Mackerel, Spanish Mackerel, Pompano, Kennebec Salmon, California or Oregon Salmon, Sheeps-head, Red Snappers, Smelts. Baked Fish. — After the fish has been properly cleaned and rinsed, wipe dry with a cloth and rub well inside with salt and pep- per. When large enough, stuff the fish with a bread stuffing, or a delicate forcemeat, and insert skewers, sew or wind with a cord to keep it in form, and dredge well with salt and pepper and flour. The fish should be placed on a trivet, a perforated tin sheet, or a large tin plate, or if nothing better is at hand, a tin pot cover and this set into the baking pan. This _ ■''"™- keeps it off' the bottom of the pan, thus preventing its burning, and the fish can be much more easily dished in perfect form. Plenty of butter, olive oil, or American cooking oil should be used to prevent its becoming dry, and the fish should be frequently basted while baking. Or score or cut gashes across the fish, half an inch deep and two inches long, cut strips of pork to fit and put them in the gashes, dredge as above, cover the bottom of the pan with hot water and place in a moderate oven, baking slowly first hour, then increase to a very hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes from the drippings in the pan, and after basting dredge each time with a lit- tle salt, pepper, and flour. The water in the pan must be often re- newed, as the bottom must only be just covered each time. A good- sized stuffed fish should bake an hour and a half to two hours (some bake fifteen minutes for each pound), and when done will be nicely browned if above directions are followed. Take up on a hot platter, remove the strings, garnish and serve with a gravy made from the drippings in the pan, or any sauce preferred. Some like fish baked 252 FISH. in the marinade given in Boiled Fish ; or put into the baking pan before preparing the fiph two tablespoons butter, a carrot, turnip, potato, and onion, cut in slices, two blades mace, teaspoon white pepper, tablespoon celery seed, six cloves and a cup vinegar ; set in the oven until the fish is ready to bake when use it for basting, add- ing hot water as needed, serving it (strained) with the fish as a sauce, with the addition of a little flour to thicken. Almost any fish may be baked, though those most commonly cooked in this way are Lake Superior trout, blue-fish, black-fish, pike, rock-fish, bass, white-fish, shad and mackerel. Any of the larger kinds of fish may be baked in slices. Fish too small to be stuff'ed should be dipped in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread-crumbs before baking. Should the oven become too hot put a piece of buttered writing pa- per over the fish to prevent its becoming scorched. Mackerel is sometimes baked entirely enveloped in greased writing paper, and is then served in the paper. When herrings are liked to look red some add a little cochineal and saltpetre to the drippings. Boiled Fish. — For boiling, a fish-kettle is almost indispensable, as it is very difficult to remove a large fish without breaking from an ordinary kettle. The fish-kettle is an oblong covered boiler, in which is suspended a perforated tin plate, with a handle at each end, on which the fish rests while boiling, and with which it is lifted out when done and placed over a kettle to drain a mo- ment or two. From this tin it is easily slipped off to the platter on which it goes to the table. "\\'hen no fish-kettle is at hand, wrap and pin in a cloth (some flour it), lay in a circle on a steamer tin, a sieve or plate, and set in a kettle. When done the fish may be lifted out gentlv by the cloth and thus removed to the platter. Some simply spread a napkin on the plate under the fish, leaving the four corners outside the kettle, with which to lift it out ; or a towel or napkin may be put under the plate, the ends brought together and tied over the fish, and when done it may be lifted from the kettle, plate and all, by putting a fork under the knot, and so prevent all possibility of the fish breaking from its own weight, as it might when lifted from the plate in a cloth, unless done very carefully. All large fish (except salmon, which is put on in hot water to preserve its color) should be put on in cold water, but small ones in boiling water, for the reason that fish cooks so quickly that almost as soon as it touches the boiling water it is done, and if a large one were jiut on in boiling water the outside would be done and the inside raw. Large fish must be cooked very gently or the outside will break before the inner part is done, thus creating a waste and spoiling the handsome and appetizing appear- PISH. 253 ance of the fish ; if necessary to add a little water while the fish is cooking, it should be poured in carefully at the side of the vessel ; but the less water used the better. Fish should never be allowed to boil hard, but the water should be brought to the boiling point as ■quickly as possible, when all scum must be taken off, and the fish kept simmering until done. Simmering is a gentle bubbling of the water. _ Should it begin to boil rapidly, draw it to back of range, or throw in a little cold water. In boiling fish, allow five to ten min- utes to the pound, according to thickness, after putting into the water, and some, will be done when the boiling point is reached. To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done the fish will separate easily. Remove the moment it is done, or it will become "woolly" and insipid. Salmon and all dark-fleshed fish require longer boil- ing than the white-fleshed kinds. A whole mackerel nee.ds about a quarter of an hour to do it properly ; herrings, and many other sorts of fish, scarcely half so long. The addition of salt and vinegar to water in which fish is boiled, seasons the fish, and at the same time hardens the water, so that it extracts less of the nutritious part of the fish. Some rub vinegar or lemon juice on the outside of the fish before putting it in the water. When only salt is added to the water in which fish is boiled it is, in French parlance, a Veau de sel ; when sea-water is used the fish is said to be dressed a VHollan- daise; when the water is flavored with vinegar, spices and onions, the fish is served as au court houillon, and simmered in a small quan- tity of water with a seasoning of savory herbs, it is a la honne eau. A good recipe for Court Bouillon, is the following : Four quarts water, one onion, one slice carrot, two cloves, two tablespoons salt, one of vinegar, one teaspoon pepper, juice of half a lemon and a bunch sweet herbs. Tie the onion, carrot, cloves and herbs in a piece of muslin and put in the water with the other ingredients. Cover and boil slowly an hour, then put in the fish and boil as directed. ' This is also called Marinade, and a more highly- flavored preparation is made thus : Cut fine two carrots, three onions, half a dozen shallots, a clove of garlic, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley, a little celery, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; fry the whole for a few minutes, then add, very gradu- ally, two quarts water, pint vinegar, one or two tablespoons salt, two dozen peppercorns, same of allspice, and two cloves. Simmer the whole together one and a half hours, strain the liquor, and put it by for use, when fish is to be boiled ; if carefully strained after the fish has been taken out it may be used several times, adding a little water each time. Fish dressed in it should simmer very gently, or rather stew than boil, as it affords to mackerel, fresh herrings, perch, roach, and any of the small river fish, the advantage of dissolving, or so thoroughly softening their bones as to render them more agree- able in eating. Large fish should be cut into steaks before being marinaded. Instead of the vinegar a cup each of essence of an- 254 FISH. chovies, and catsup may be used ; or fennel, chives, thyme, and bay leaves, may be added. Or, choose a kettle that will suit the size of the fish, into which put the above proportions of water and vinegar with a piece of butter, some fried onions and carrots, pep- per, salt, two or three cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs (first fry- ing all in a little butter), using less of each than given above if not liked so highly flavored ; simmer fifteen minutes, skim or strain, let it become cold, then put in the fish, first rubbing it with lemon juice and salt, and let it simmer until done. Serve with anchovy sauce and juice of lemon, or on a napkin surrounded with parsley, with a caper or pickle sauce, or any kind of fish sauce, in a sauce-boat. The fresh-water fish, or those which have no decided flavor, are much better marinaded or boiled au court houillon. The sea-fish, or such as have a pronounced flavor, can be boiled in simple salted and acidulated water, and another plain stock for fish is to two quarts cold water put half a cup of vinegar, tablespoon salt, a teaspoon each whole cloves and whole peppers, a bay leaf and half a lemon sliced if wished. Pish of the shape of herrings should, for boiling, be curled round with their tails i^kewered in their mouths ; small fish, such as smelts, etc., should be run five or six on a skewer through their eyes. Many prefer to serve boiled fish upon a napkin, rather than with a sauce poured over it ; and a plain white sauce is thought to be better with boiled salmon than anything less simple, serving cucumbers or melon in slices apart ; silver eels may have a sauce over them, and salt cod, boiled, is often served masked with mashed parsnips or potatoes. With bass, blue-fish and carp, serve anchovy, caper, or tomato sauce. Sturgeon and some other fish are better if just basted and frothed before the fire after being boiled; cod's head and shoulders are much better when thus treated. Pike, boiled, can be first stuffed with forcemeat, but it is best when baked. Fennel should be boiled with mackerel, and gooseberry sauce served with it; grated loaf-sugar is generally offered with mackerel, and mint is also eaten with it. Mustard is served with boiled cod, smelts, herrings, and perch. Drawn butter sauce with lemon juice or eggs is also a favorite accompaniment with all boiled fish. It is quite appropriate to serve a boiled middle cut of salmon or any large fish at a dinner; it is the best cut, easier and cheaper to serve, and one never cares to supply more than is necessary. This cut is better slowly boiled, also, in the acidulated salted boim s«imon. water. Broiled Fish. — Fish weighing between half a pound and four pounds are nice for broiling, though about three pounds and a half IS the best size. The small fish should be fried whole, and the larger ones scored, or split down the l)a,ck. See that the fish is FISH. 25S properly cleaned, wipe dry with a cloth, and either rub it with vin- egar or dredge it with flour, then dip it into olive oil, or egg and bread-crumbs ; or roll it well in chopped herbs ; though many simply rub it over with butter. Always use a double broiler, if possible, and before putting the fish into it, heat hot, and rub over with butter to prevent the fish sticking. The size or thickness of the fish will have to be the guide in broiling ; if the fish is small it will re- quire a clear, hot fire ; if large the fire must be moderate, otherwise the outside /.J, n -I .111 1 11/1 II Double Broiler. or the fish will be burned before the inside is cooked. Some brown the fish handsomely over the coals and then put it in the oven to finish cooking ; when the fish is very thick, or broiled with a stuffing, as mackerel sometimes is, this is a good plan. But when fish are split they are very easily broiled over the fire. If the fish is taken from the broiler to be put into the oven it should be slipped on to a tin sheet that it may slide easily into the platter when served, for nothing so mars a dish of fish as to have it come to the table broken. In broiling, the inside should be exposed to the fire first, and then the skin. Great care must be taken that the skin does not burn. To turn the fish when broiling on a gridiron, separate carefully with a knife any part of it that sticks to the iron, then, holding a platter over the fish with one hand, turn the gridiron over with the other, leaving the fish on the platter, from which it can be easily turned laack to the gridiron to finish cooking. Mackerel will broil in from twelve to twenty min- utes, young cod (also called scrod) in from twenty to thirty min- utes, blue-fish in from twenty to thirty minutes, salmon in from twelve to twenty minutes, and white-fish, bass, mul- let, etc., in about eighteen minutes. As soon as the fish is done, sprinkle with pepper and salt, spread butter all over it with a knife and set in oven a moment that the butter may soak into the fish. Some put over the fish a few drops lemon juice and a little chopped parsley before spreading with butter, and this is especially nice for shad, which is much more delicious broiled than cooked in any other way. Soaking fish in a marinade before broiling is considered a great improvement, and the French soak it in olive oil made savory with spices. When broiling the more delicate kinds of fish the gridiron or broiler may be strewed with_ sprigs of fresh aromatic herbs, oiling the fish well before putting it to broil, and cooking very slowly. Smoked salmon should be merely heated through. When wanted to broil quickly, fish may be first parboiled, but the skin will doubtless be more or less broken and its appearance thus marred. Broiled fish may be either masked with a sauce — tartare, tomato, curry or any sharp sauce — or served upon a puree of sorrel, tomatoes, or beans, or upon an oil or caper sauce. When possible, 256 FISH. garnish with parsley, celery or lettuce. The salmon, trout, perch, pickerel, shad, mackerel, black-fish, blue-fish, haddock, white and flat-fish, are all very excellent broiled, as are also cutlets of any kind offish, but the Spanish mackerel, from the Gulf, and pompano arc especially prized for cooking in this manner. The (Jalifomia salmon is the most highly esteemed of its kind for many uses, and the cutlets are very nice broiled. Collared Fish. — A side of salmon, a fine mackerel or eel, or a piece of sturgeon large enough for a handsome roll will make a good collar. Split the fish, remove the head, tail and fins and bone care- fully, but do not skin it (when an eel is used it must of course be skinned), wipe dry, rub well on both sides with spices, salt and very finely shred herbs, roll as tightly as possible, tie securely with broad tape and put a cloth round it ; place it in boiling hot vinegar and water — equal parts of each — seasoned with bruised bay leaves, salt and a bunch of sweet herbs ; simmer very slowly until the fish is done. A larger sized collar of sturgeon or salmon requires two hours' simmering to cook it well ; eel or mackerel will be done in fifteen or twenty minutes. Take it up, reduce the liquor by boiling, strain, and when cold pour over the fish and set away until wanted. The cloth need not be removed until just before the fish is served. If to be served hot, the fish may be tied only with tape and baked ; garnish with sprigs of fresh fennel or grated horseradish. Serve whole or sliced. When boiled, the bones, head, etc., may be tied in a muslin bag and boiled in the liquor with the fish to give it a richer flavor. Minced oysters, anchovies or lobster, mixed with raw yolk of egg, may be spread inside salmon or sturgeon before rolling with the spices. If kept long the liquor of the fish must be drained off and boiled up from time to time, and when cold poured again over the fish. Crimped Fish. — The fish must be as fresh as possible ; cut into nice shaped slices about two inches thick, and put into a saucepan of salted water that has been brought to a boil, checking with a lit- tle cold water when the fish is put in ; take out the fish in a few minutes, carefully place on a cloth to drain, dredge with flour or wash over with yolk of egg and broil slowly over a clear fire. Serve with' anchovy, oyster, or caper sauce in the dish. Salmon, cod, shad, rock-fish, bass and halibut are all excellent crimped. Curried Fish. — Salmon, cod, eels, flounders and flat-fish gener- ally, may be made into curries, and must first be caj-efully boned, then fried and a boiling gravy seasoned with curry powder poured over them ; when the whole boils remove from fire and add some bits of butter and beaten yolk of egg. A little chopped onion fried in butter is often used in curries, aiiying spinach-juice or bruised herbs. Propor- tion according to quantity of fish. Decorate the dfsh with lumps of clear fish jelly, capers, gherkins, etc. Or pour over the fish a sauce made as follows : Chop together chervil, tarragon, cress and mus- tard leaves ; add pepper and salt, and mix together with enough olive-oil and vinegar to make it of the proper consistency ; garnish the dish with slices of lemon and cucumber, placed alternately, sprinkled with cayenne pepper and minced anchovy. A more simple salad is made by melting some fresh butter in a stewpan and adding lemon-juice, pepper, chopped shallot and parsley, and olive oil; pour over the fish, strew crushed bay salt and grated lemon-rind on top before sending to table, and decorate with pickles. For a nice Salmon Salad, cut cold boiled salmon into slices or pieces two inches long, and marinade by letting stand two or three hours in vinegar well seasoned with pepper, salt, a little salad oil and chopped onion and parsley. Arrange lettuce leaves in bottom of salad dish and cover with Italian dressing, (see Salads), placing the salmon, bordering with a row of hard-boiled eggs in slices, in a ring on this, and fill in center with mayonnaise sauce. Sprinkle capers over all. Pike, blue-fish, flounders, etc., may be used in salads in same manner. The fish may be either fried or boiled, or FISH. 269 remnants of cold used. Slices may be more neatly shaped before cooking, if cold fish is not used. Fish Sandwiches. — Butter thin slices of bread on both sides, lay thin pieces of anchovy, tunny fish, sardine, smoked salmon, bloater, or other cured fish on half; sprinkle some seasoning upon the tops, and place the other slices of bread upon them ; lay the sand- wiches in a dish, and set them in a quick oven till the bread is nicely browned. The soft roe of a shad or herring, mashed and spread between bread-and-butter, and baked, is a very savory relish. Pressed cavaire used in the same way is particularly good. Chopped hard-boiled eggs may be mixed with the fish and a little mayonnaise or any sauce preferred is a relished addition. Fish Canapes may also be classed with sandwiches and are prepared thus : Cut some rather thick slices of bread ; cut out a round from the center of each, fry them in olive-oil or butter and place upon them minced anchovy, tunny fish, cured salmon, sardine, or fresh shell-fish of any kind ; add seasoning, and some yolk of hard-boiled egg chopped fine, to- gether with any chopped pickles or herbs liked. Fish SouMe. — Pare eight good-sized potatoes and boil thirty minutes, drain the water from them, and mash very fine ; then mix thoroughly with a pint finely chopped, cooked salt fish. Add two tablespoons butter, salt and pepper, and three-fourths cup hot milk or cream ; stir into the mixture two well-beaten eggs, and heap this in the dish in which it is to be served. Place in the oven for ten minutes. Beat the whites of two eggs to stiff froth, and add a quar- ter teaspoon salt ; then add yolks. Spread this over the dish of fish ; return to the oven to brown, and serve. Fish Soups. — Fish soups may be made as rich or as thin as liked, but about a pound of fish to a pint of water, with the requisite seasoning, will make a very good soup. When stock is required to make anything richer, it should be compounded wholly of fish rather than from meat. The liquor in which a salmon has been boiled makes a capital foundation for a fish soup. With the excep- tion of the richer kinds, such as herrings, mackerel, or sprats, almost any fish is suitable for soup. The thickenings used for fish soups are potato flour, fried bread-crumbs, cream, butter rolled in flour, ground rice, cod roe, lobster spawn, or caviare, beaten to a paste ; yolk of egg, either raw or hard-boiled, and pounded smooth, together with an admixture of olive oil ; mashed turnip, crushed macaroni, or Italian paste, etc. Eels for soup should be simmered until the flesh leaves the bones, then strain, and add thickening and season- ings. The following are all nice adjuncts to fish soup : Small bits fried bread or toast,, hard-boiled eggs in quarters, forcemeat balls, picked shrimps, prawn, or crayfish ; French roll, fried brown ; slips «f pickled anchovies, little onions, first lightly fried in butter, sliced 270 » FISH. cucumber, mushrooms, or quartered tomatoes. To make Brown Fish Soup, take any kind of fish, cut in small pieces, roll in flour, and brown in olive-oil or butter in saucepan ; cover with hot water, sea- son with salt and pepper, and boil slowly for about fifteen minutes. See that there is plenty of water. One pound will make a quart of soup. A clove of garlic or any flavoring liked may be added. Fish Straws. — With the exception of mackerel the fish should be skinned, and good fillets (narrow strips) taken lengthwise free from bone ; soak for two hours in lemon-juice seasoned with chopped onions, parsley and pepper ; take out, wipe dry, roll in flour, and fry in dripping or oil until a fine brown ; drain from fat, pile in a dish, and serve a tomato sauce round them. Haddock, mackerel, or any kind of flat fish are used for these straws. Fish Toast. — Bone any preserved fish, such as smoked salm^on, herring, etc., season with cayenne pepper, made mustard (if liked) and salt; when it is a smooth paste add an equal quantity of fresh butter, incorporate both well together, and spread upon pieces of hot toast ; put these for a few moments into an oven, and send to table when well heated. Fish Turhans. — Bone and skin a fish, as directed in preface, and after cutting the entire fish into fillets or slices, roll each one up and fasten with a broom straw. These little rolls are called Turbans. Stufl' or not, as wished, with highly seasoned soaked bread, and place in pan with butter or oil in the bottom, but no water. Cook in oven only long enough for the flakes to separate. Dish and serve on tartare sauce. Flounders or any fish may be used. Fish with Parmesan Cheese. — Remove all bone and skin from some cold fish ; trim it nicely, and place in a stewpan over the fire ; add sufiicient white sauce to moisten it. Butter a dish, arrange the fish and sauoe upon it, and strew it rather thickly with bread- crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese ; sprinkle it with melted butter, and place in oven to brown. If the flavor of Parmesan is too strong Gruyere cheese may be used; or the bread-crumbs alone may be employed, when a dish of cold fish, au gratin, is intended to be served. Fish in Jelly. — Make a savory jelly of calves' feet, (see Jellies), or by slowly boiling any kind of fish — flounders or any flat fish, whatever is cheapest — until it jellies, which may be ascertained by the usual test for jellies, which see. Some like the flavor of a few button onions, a little lemon juice, parsley, and a slight sprinkling of sugar cooked with the fish. Strain, and if not perfectly clear, clarify according to directions in soups and pour a little into a mold ; when properly set, arrange upon it the previously cooked fish (smelts, \jerch, or other small fish should be fried or baked with the tail in FISH. 271 the mouth), and carefully pour in more jelly until the mold is filled. When entirely cold and congealed wrap it in a hot cloth for a few moments and turn out on an ornamental dish. Serve for supper or luncheon. Slices or strips of cold salmon, turbot or soles, when used, may be cut in fancy shapes or arranged in ornamental devices in the jelly, and oysters, cooked just enough to plump them, hard- boiled eggs in rings, or forcemeat balls colored a bright green with spinach juice, are nice additions. A very handsome and appetizing dish. Fish with Olives. — Peel and cut a nice tender cucumber into slices an inch thick ; fry them in olive oil, and fry in another pan some fillets of fish bound and rubbed in flour and white pepper ; when done, arrange the slices of cucumber in a dish and place the fillets upon them. Throw some stoned olives into the oil and let remain just long enough to get hot.. Put them round the dish and serve at once. Fish with Rice. — Carefully bone enough cold fish to make a moderate-sized dish, add cayenne pepper and salt, and lightly fry in a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter ; when quite hot add a teacup boiled rice and chopped yolks of four hard-boiled eggs ; stir well to- gether until perfectly hot; shape it upon a dish, and serve with pickles. Boiled Bass. — Clean a handsome piece of fish, open it at the belly and remove the bone ; lard the flesh with slips of anchovy, truffles, tunny fish, and gherkins ; stuff it with the flesh of other fish, such as lobster, oysters, crayfish, prawns, etc; season and fasten it together so that it may retain its original form as nearly as possible ; wrap in a cloth and boil in richly-flavored liquor till done ; when cold remove the covering, lay in a dish, glaze and decorate round with crusts of jelly and little ornamental heaps of butter. Salmon, sturgeon and pike can be cooked as above. Potted Bloater. — Cut off heads and clean as many fish as wanted, then put in oven till cooked through ; take from oven, skin and carefully separate meat from bones ; put the meat in a jar with half its weight of butter and set in cool oven to cook slowly half an hour ; then put the fish into a mortar or bowl, pour the butter over it, taking care not to let the gravy pass too, unless fish is to be eaten soon, as it will not keep so well ; pound butter and fish together with a pestle or potato masher, to a paste, add a little cayenne, and press. into small pots, pouring melted butter or mutton suet a third of an inch thick over top of each. Least expensive' and most appetizing of all potted meats, and makes excellent sandwiches. Boiled Cod's Head and Shoulders. — Cleanse the fish thorough- ly, and rub a little salt over the thick part and inside of the fish, 272 FISH. Cod's Head and Shoulders. one or two hours before dressing it, as this very much improves the flavor. Lay the head and shoulders in fish-kettle or deep pan with sufficient cold water to cover. Be very particular not to pour the water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring It in at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in proportion of three table- spoons to each gallon of wa- ter, and bring gradually to a boil ; a little horse-radish and vinegar or lemon juice added now im- prove the fish. Skim very carefully, draw to the back of range, and let it gently simmer till done, about half an hour. Take out and drain ; dish on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon, and horse- radish and serve with. either drawn butter or eggs. Prepare Boiled White Fish in same manner. For a God Pie, carefully remove all skin from any fish that is left and pick from the bones, place in a pie dish or pan, pour over melted butter to moisten, and a dozen or so oysters (or oyster sauce if left) and cover with mashed potatoes. Bake half an hour and serve nicely browned. Any cold fish may be used and is delicious and very economical. A more elaborate Cod Pie is made by laying two fresh slices large cod in salt for four hours, wash, place in a dish, season, add two tablespoons butter, half pint any good stock, cover with pie or baking powder crust as rich as liked with center cut out by a cup and bake one hour. Make a sauce of quarter pint cream or milk, one tablespoon stock, a little thickening of flour and butter, finely-chopped lemon peel and a dozen or so oysters, let boil once and pour it into the pie at opening in center. The piece cut out can be placed upon the pie and carefully lifted up to add the sauce. Bake a quarter of an hour and then serve in dish in which it is baked. Cooked cod may be used and any fish may be substituted for the cod. For a Oodnsh Poll, chop fine cold cooked fish, pour over it drawn-butter or egg sauce, season to taste. Warm thoroughly, stirring to prevent burning ; make up in rolls or any other form and brown in oven ; or after prepared with sauce put in the frying-pan with a little oil, lard or drippings, and heat through and then shape into a roll and brown, turning it over and over to brown evenly. Cold cod is an admirable materia,l for making pretty little din- ner and breakfast dishes. An excellent curry may be made by breaking up cold fish into flakes e^s neatly as possible. These should be fried in butter, with onions cut in rings and a suspicion of ehal- FISH. 273 lot, to a fine light brown color ; then take some butter rolled in flour, put into a stewpan, and let it take a light color ; add some good- Avhite stock or gravy, and a large spoonful curry powder made into paste with cream ; throw in flaked fish (not the onions), simmer for about ten minutes, and serve with rice in separate dish. Cold salt cod may be used. Cod Sounds. — These are the air or swimming bladders of the , fish and should be well soaked in salted water, and thoroughly washed before dressing. They are considered a great delicacy, and may either be broiled, fried, or boiled ; if they are boiled, mix a little milk with the water. Cod Sounds with Forcemeat. — Make a force- meat of twelve chopped oysters, three chopped anchovies, quarter pound bread-crumbs, tablespoon butter, two eggs ; seasotiing of salt pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste. Mix the ingredients well to- gether. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for half an hour ; take out and let cool. Cover each with a layer of forcemeat, roll up in nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with butter, dredge with flour, and broil gently over the fire or bake in oven. Codfish a la Mode. — One cup codfish (if salt codfish is used freshen overnight), picked up fine, two cups mashed potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two eggs well-beaten, half cup butter, salt and pepper ; mix well, bake in baking-dish from twenty to twenty-five minutes. For Scalloped CodUsh, use bread-crumbs instead of pota- toes, moistening them with' the cream or milk, putting in the dish in layers, alternating with the fish, and finishing with the crumbs ; sprinkle bits of butter over the top and bake half an hour, or the mashed potatoes may be used also. CodUsh and Eggs. — Take a pint each freshened and flaked cod- flsh (or any cooked salt-fish) and milk or cream, two tablespoons flour, one of butter and six eggs. Mix the fiour smooth in a little of the milk, putting the remainder on to boil ; stir in the flour, and add the fish, season with pepper (it should be salt enough) and cook ten minutes. Poach the eggs carefully. Turn the cooked fish over six slices or rounds of nicely toasted bread on a platter, and place the eggs on the fish. Garnish with points of toast and sprigs of parsley. A delicious dish. CodUsh Fritters. — One pint finely picked salt codfish, two of whole raw peeled potatoes. Place together in cold water and boil till potatoes are done. Remove from fire and drain ; mash well, add tablespoon butter, two well-beaten eggs and a little white pepper. Mix with a wooden spoon and drop in hot cooking-oil or lard in spoonfuls as fritters- 18 ■ 274 FISH. GodHsTi Mountain. — Soak some codfish, and simply boil in water ; take up, bone and flake nicely, and put into a stewpan over the fire ; keep stirring while gradually dropping upon it some, good Italian olive-oil ; when, the fish becomes a sort of cream, add find.y- chopped parsley, a bruised garlic, and a grated lemon-Beel ; serve heaped up in a dish. Cream CodHsh. — Soak pieces of codfish several hours in cold water, or wash thoroughly, heat in oven and pick fine, and place in skillet with cold water ; boil a few minutes, pour off water and add ■ fresh, boil' again (if not very salt the second boiling is not necessary ), and drain off as before ; then add a pint and a half sweet milk to each pint codfish — or part cream and part milk, half and half is very nice — a piece of butter size of an egg when cream is not used and a thickening made of a tablespoon flour (or half tablespoon corn starch) mixed with two tablespoons cold milk until smooth like cream ; season with white pepper, stir well just before taking from fire, drop in an egg if liked, stir very briskly, and serve. This is very rich and thick, and is a very nice dish of fish. If wanted as a. gravy, or when much gravy is liked, use double the quantity of milk, butter and fl'our. Salt codfish is also excellent broiled. Soak overnight, and broil as other fish. Masked GodHsh. — Stir four tablespoons butter with a pint hot mashed potatoes and add a half pint finely shredded codfish, a gill milk or cream and teaspoon pepper. Butter a quart tin mold and pack it evenly and smoothly with the above mixture ; let it stand in the oven ten minutes ; turn it out on the perforated plate of the fish- kettle, cover with beaten yolk of egg and bread-crumbs ; have ready enough hot fat in the fish-kettle to immerse it, sink the plate into the fat and let stand until the whole is nicely browned. Be sure the fat is hot enough or the dish will be spoiled. Slide carefully upon a platter and garnish with curled parsley. If a fish-kettle is not at hand mask by browning in the oven, covered with egg only. Egg sauce is excellent with this. Fried Eels. — Skin, take off head and tail, cut into small pieces, throw into boiling water for five minutes, drain, roll in flour or corn meal peppered and salted, and fry in very hot lard. A favorite way of cooking them is to skin and boil in salted water with a few pepper- corns. Let stand in water until cold and serve cold. Fried Flounders. — Bone the flounders and divide into four pieces. Have a deep skillet of hot fat ready, wipe each piece of fish dry, dip in milk, then in flour, drop them into the fat and when beautifully brown, which will be in about ten minutes, take up in a colander,, and then lay them on a towel to absorb any fat, place on a hot dish,and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley or celery tops. Pronounced equal to the Delmonico Mlet de sole. FISH. 275 Boiled Haddock. — Wash a three-pound haddock as soon as it comes from market, and some place in a large pan containing plenty of cold water and a handful of salt for a short time. To cook, place in fish-kettle with cold water to cover, a gill of vinegar, tablespoon salt, a small root of parsley, six cloves and one sprig each of thyme and majoram. When the water boils fish will usually be done ; test by pulling out a fin, if it comes out easily and flesh of fish looks clear white it is done. Take up carefully without breaking, remove the skin by scraping gently so as to avoid tearing the fish. Serve with parsley or anchovy sauce. For small haddocks, fasten tails in their mouths and pin with a wooden toothpick and place in boiling water. Generally they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in length and such are esteemed very delicate eating. Haddocks are at their best in November, December, June and July. Any fish may be cooked as above. Creamed Haddock. — Put a fish weighing five or six pounds on in cold water enough to cover, and which contains one tablespoon of salt. Cook gently twenty minutes ; then lift out of the water, but let it remain on the tray. Now carefully remove all the skin and the head ; then tu^-n the fish over into the dish in which it is to be served (it should be stone china), and scrape off the skin from the other side. Pick out all the small bones ; they are down the whole length of the back, and a few in the lower part of the fish, near the tail, in rows like pins in a paper, and it will take but a few minutes to remove them. Then take out the back-bone, starting at the head and working gently down toward the tail. Great care must be taken, that the fish may keep its shape. Cover with pre- pared cream as follows : Put one quart milk, two sprigs parsley and small sliced onion on to boil, reserving half a cup milk to mix with two tablespoons flour. When it boils, stir in the flour paste. Cook eight minutes. Season highly with s^lt and pepper, add tablespoon butter, strain on the fish, and bake about ten minutes, just to brown it a little. Garnish with parsley or little pufif-paste cakes ; or, cover it with the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stifi' froth, and then slightly fcrown. A cusk or cod can be cooked in same way. Baked Halibut. — Use neck of halibut, the thin part just below the head, under the gills. Wash in cold water, and if not ready to use let it stand in cold water. Put butter, drippings, or pieces of salt pork in baking pan, lay in the fish and bake three-quarters of an hour, basting with the drippingSj being careful not to let burn; place on hot platter without breaking the fish and serve with tomato sauce around it. To make the sauce for three pounds fish, take a pint canned or fresh tomatoes, cook and season with salt, pepper, and if wished, a clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Creoled Halibut. — Wash a thick square piece of fresh halibut, place in baking dish, season with salt and pepper, and strew over it 276 FISH. a finely chopped clove of garlic, about the size of a bean, and cover with a cup of fresh or canned tomatoes. Bake until flakes separate ; dish without breaking. , Baked Herrings. — Scale and clean two pounds herrings care- fully without washing, unless it be absolutely necessary. Split- down the back and remove backbones,- sprinkle inside with a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace mixed together. If there are any roes enclose them in the fish and place latter in layers in a baking dish with six each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and two bay leaves. Cover with an equal mixture of vinegar and water or all vinegar, salt plentifully and tie a sheet of oiled paper over the dish,, and bake one hour ; serve cold. Baked Salt Herring are prepared by soaking the herring overnight, roll in flour and butter, and place in a dripping pan with a very little water over them ; season with pepper, and after putting in oven baste frequently. Herring Pudding. — First thoroughly wash and then soak two salt herrings in water overnight, or in sweet milk four or five hours, as the milk extracts the salt in half the time and even less. Pick in pieces and place in a quart baking dish a layer of fish with little bits of butter and then a layer of cold boiled potatoes sliced, and one of cooked rice, then fish, etc., with potatoes for last layer ; cover with a custard made of one pint milk, two eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper, and bake in oven half an hour ; rice may be omitted. Any salt or fresh fish (not soaking) may be used, and any cold cooked fish. Baked Mackerel. — Clean four medium-sized fish, the largest seldom weigh over two pounds, take out the roes and fill with a forcemeat made by mixing well together tablespoon each fresh but- ter, finely shredded suet and fat bacon, diced, small teaspoon minced savory herbs and parsley, a little finely minced onion, if liked, four tablespoons bread-crumbs, one egg, salt, nutmeg and cayenne to taste. Sew up slit, flour, and put in a baking dish, heads and tails alternately, put on bits of butter, pepper and salt, then the roes. Bake half an hour and serve with plain drawn butter or a maitr& d^hotel sauce. Boiled Mackerel. — Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the kettle with sufficient water to cover, with quarter pound salt to each gallon water ; bring it gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done, —-- v: M fW!*tm— —=-~ when the tail splits and the eye /jt^' ^^^^^mmS^^^ '^'^ ll\ starts out, generally about ten min- \:--.^^ EIi^ jbz:! ^.^»afc '-'-'-^ JJv^m^s. utes ; dish oh a hot napkin, heads ^~~" -""i^^^^^S and tails alternately, and garnish =°"='' M"'*™'' with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to boiled mackerel ; but caper or anchovy sauce i» FISH. 277 sometimes served with it. When variety is desired, fillet the mack- erel, boil it, and pour over parsley and butter ; send some of this besides, in a tureen. Or for Pickled Mackerel, boil as above, place in dish, take half the liquor in which they were boiled, add as much vinegar, a few pepper-corns and a bay leaf or two, boil ten minutes and when cold, pour over the fish. Broiled Mackerel. — Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry after taking out the gills and inside. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil ; broil it over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. AVhen sufficiently cooked, which • will be in about ten minutes for a small mackerel, the flesh can be de- tached from the bone. Chop a little parsley, mix with butter, pep- per and salt to taste, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the butter is quite melted, with a maitre d''hotel sauce in a tureen. Salt Mackerel. — Take mackerel from the salt, wash carefully, and lay them inside downward in a pan of cold water for twelve to fifteen hours ; change the water frequently, and if wanted sooner the fish may be soaked in sweet or sour milk — it will freshen in half the time. Scrape clean, and for Boiled Mackerel wrap in a cloth and simmer fifteen minutes ; it will be almost done when the water reaches boiling point ; remove, lay on it two hard-boiled eggs sliced, pour drawn butter over and trim with parsley leaves. Boiling salt- fish hardens it. For Baked Mackerel, lay in shallow pan, the inside of fish down ; cover with water, and set it over a gentle fire or in an oven for twelve or fiften minutes ; then pour off water, turn fish, put bits of butter in pan, and over the fish, sprinkle with pepper and fry for five minutes, then serve. Baked Mullet. — Cut one carrot and two onions into thin slices ; add thyme, parsley and marjoram, with pepper and salt to taste, and three tablespoons salad oil ; mix well together, cover each mul- let with the mixture, and roll it up in a piece of white paper, previ- ously oiled ; bake in a moderate oven half an hour, then carefully open the paper, place the fish neatly on a dish, ready to serve, and keep it warm. Melt a small piece butter, add a large pinch flour, a half cup good stock, and the vegetables, etc., the fish were cooked in. Let the sauce boil five minutes, add salt if wanted ; strain, skim, pour over the fish, and serve. Fried Pan-Fish. — Take perch, sun-fish, or any small fish ; place in pan with heads together, and fill spaces with smaller fish; when ready to turn, put a plate over, drain off fat, invert pan, and the fish will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the lard back in the pan and when hot, slip back the fish, and when the other side is. 278 FISH. brown, drain, turn on plate as before, and slide them on the platter to go to the table. This improves the appearance, if not the flavor. The heads should be left on, and the shape preserved as fully as possible. ' Baked Pickerel. — Clean the fish thoroughly, wipe carefully, and lay in a dripping-pan with hot water enough to prevent scorch- ing ; a perforated tin sheet or rack fitting closely in the pan, or hard- wood sticks laid crosswise, or several muffin-rings may be used to keep the fish from the bottom of the pan, and the fish may be made to form a circle by tying head and tail together ; cover with an in- verted pan and bake slowly, basting occasionally with butter and water. It will not need so frequent basting if covered. Remove pan fifteen or twenty minutes before done to brown nicely. When done have ready a cup sweet cream into which a few spoons hot water have been poured, stir in two tablespoons melted butter and a little chopped parsley, and heat in a vessel of boiling water ; add the gravy from the fish and boil up once. Place the fish in a hot dish, and pour over the sauce. Bake Salmon and Trout same way. Pike a la Godard. — The inside of a fine pike must be removed through the gills, and the fish put into scalding water in order that the skin may be stripped off easily ; also tie the head with fine twine. Wrap the fish in buttered paper, put it into a fish-kettle and cover with cold water. When pike is done, which can be told by touching it gently, drain it and garnish with cray-fish, which are simply the homely craw-fish, and quenelles of forcemeat made as Pike a la Godard, follows : Take one teacup bread-crumbs, one teaspoon minced savory herbs, eight oysters, two anchovies (or omit the latter), two ounces suet ; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste ; six table- spoons of cream or milk, and two eggs. Beard and mince the oys- ters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, and when properly pre- pared, pound all together in a mortar for some time ; for the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten with the eggs, whites and j'olks, and continue pounding, adding a seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended together, mold into balls, roll in flour, and poach in boiling water FISH. . 279' to whicli a little salt has been added. If the quenelles are not firm enough, add the yolk of another egg, but omit the white, which only- makes them hollow and puffy inside, and whites may be omitted altogether. In the preparation of the quenelles the ingredients are to be well pounded and seasoned, for this is the secret of the French quenelles ; when they are wished very small, extreme delicacy will be necessary in their preparation. Their flavor may be varied by usirig the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant or grouse, with the addition of mushroom, parsley, etc. Prepare the crayfish by throw- ing into boiling water, to which has been added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. When done, which will be in fifteen minutes, take out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange around the fish as illustrated, alternately with the quenelles. This fish is also nice for garnishing boiled turkey, boiled fowl, calf's head, and all kinds of boiled fish. It should be oftener employed for the delicious soup it makes than it at present is, and housewives should excite a de- mand for it among the fishmongers and a supply would soon be forthcoming. They are also nice as Potted Crayfish. Boil one hun- dred crayfish in salt and water ; pick out all the meat and pound it in a mortar to paste. Whilst pounding, add two tablespoons butter gradually, and mix in pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste. Put it in small pots, and pour over it clarified butter, carefully exclud- ing the air. Fried Red Snapper. — Cut a red snapper in pieces and fry brown. In a separate vessel, cut up and fry one onion and two cloves of garlic ; when brown, add two tablespoons flour, one pint prepared tomatoes, a little pepper, salt to taste, one tablespoon Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen whole cloves. Let this sim- mer half an hour, and stir in a tablespoon vinegar. Pour 6ver the fried fish, and serve immediately. Or fry by immersing in hot fat as directed in Fried Fish.- Red Snapper is also very nice boiled. Fried Roe. — Fish-spawn, especially the shad, is a delicacy great- ly prized by epicures. Wash and wipe, fry twenty minutes in hot fat in a frying pan on both sides ; season, dish on a hot platter and place around it a row or double row of plain fried, oysters. Put a bunch of parsley in the center, and half a lemon with the peel cut in saw teeth. Or first boil the roes (cutting them in two if large), in water seasoned with vinegar, salt and pepper, ten minutes, take out and plunge them in slightly salted cold water, wipe dry again and let them lay a minute or two ; then roll in beaten egg and bread-crumbs and fry a nice brown on both sides in hot lard or drippings. Serve with a sauce made of a cup drawn butter, a teaspoon anchovy sauce, piece of half a lemon, a little minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Send around in a gravy boat. Another nice way of frying and serving roe is to first wash any kind of fish-roe in salted cold water, and dry it on a towel ; then put into a fryingrpan containing, 280 ■ PISH. sufficient hot fat to prevent burning ; cover the pan ana Drown the roe, first on one side and then on the other ; when it is done lay it on brown paper to free it from fat, and then on a hot dish. Mean- time, peel half a dozen potatoes, cut in small balls with a vegetable scoop, or in pieces an inch square ; throw them into salted boiling water, and boil until a trussing needle or sharp fork will easily pierce them, but do not boil them soft ; as soon as they are tender drain them and lay them between the folds of a towel until the fish- roe is brown. Then put the potatoes into the hot fat where the roe was fried, set the pan over the fire and shake the potatoes about in it until they are brown. Serve them under the fish-roe after dusting them over with pepper and salt. For Eoe Croquettes take four medium-sized shad roes, two boiled potatoes, ounce each butter and flour, gill cold water, tablespoon chopped parsle}', teaspoon each lemon juice and salt, half teaspoon pepper, two hard-boiled eggs, one raw egg and four tablespoons bread-crumbs. Boil the roes twenty minutes, take out, drain and placing in a bowl separate with a wooden spoon ; add the pepper, salt and chopped parsley ; rub through a sieve over the bowl the hard-boiled yolks and then the potatoes ; add the two hard-boiled whites, finely chopped, and the lemon juice. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and gill cold water by degrees, and when boiling pour it over the materials in the bowl and stir all thoroughly together. Make into small shapes resembling the shad-roe, beat the raw egg and dip these into it, roll in the bread-crumbs, and fry as doughnuts in hot fat, draining on a piece of kitchen paper over a sieve in oven to keep hot, and serve in a folded napkin. Or for the four shad roes take one pint cream, four tablespoons each corn-starch, and butter, one teaspoon salt, juice of two lemons, slight grating of nutmeg and a speck cayenne. Boil the roe as above, then drain and mash. Put the cream on to boil, mix the butter and corn-starch together, and stir into the boil- ing cream; add the seasoning and roe; boil up once, and set away to cool. Make into balls, or ^hape and fry as directed above. Baked Salmon. — procure a middle cut of salmon ; butter both sides of a large sheet of writing paper and roll the fish in it, pinning the ends securely together. Put it in the baking pan and pour a half cup butter and water over it. Cover with another pan and bake in a moderate oven one hour, lifting the cover occasionally to baste and see that the paper does not scorch. Make a sauce by beating a cup of cream over boiling water, thicken with a heaping teaspoon corn-starch, add a tablespoon butter, and pepper, salt and finely chopped parsley to taste. When the salmon is done, take off the paper, place on a hot platter, pour half the sauce slowly over it and send the rest to table in a boat. If cream cannot be had for the sauce use milk and a well beaten egg. Salmon Croquettes. — This dainty dish may be made of the fresh fish, boiled and cold, or of the canned salmon. The meat must FISH. 281 be carefully separated from bones and skin, chopped fine and the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoon chopped parsley, a little salt and a pinch of cayenne added ; mix all together. Put two tablesjjoons best butter for each pint and a half chopped salmon into a sauce- pan with two teaspoons flour and cook together, stirring constantly. Add a little of the stock the fish was boiled in and a cup of cream. Boil for five or six minutes, stirring steadily, then mix in the chopped salmon, stir well together, and add and stir rapidly in yolks four eggs. Continue to stir briskly a few minutes longer, then pour the mixture out upon a large flat dish and set it in a cool place until perfectly cold. Then make in small roUs-or pear-shaped cones, using just enough flour to prevent the mixture from sticking to the hands. When all are done, dip them one at a time into eggs beaten up with a little cream, and roll them in freshly-made bread-crumbs. Let them rest for an hour, then fry them to a delicate brown color in plenty of boiling hot lard. Or, mix with three-fourths pint shred salmon, five tablespoons bread-crumbs; melt one and one-half table- spoons butter and pour over the mixture, adding half teaspoon each salt and pepper and saltspoon each grated nutmeg and powdered mace ; beat all together and add juice of half a lemon, teaspoon anchovy sauce and two beaten eggs, stirring well ; shape and fry as above. Salmon Fritters. — Remove skin and bone from a pound canned salmon, mince and add an equal quantity potato that has been mashed and mixed with butter and cream ; work the mixture into little cakes and fry in a little butter. Boiled Salmon. — Scale and clean fish, and be particular that no blood is left inside ; lay in fish-kettle with sufficient hot water, to cover (hot is used to better preserve the color) adding salt in the proportion of six tablespoons to a gallon water. Bring it quickly to a boil, tuke off scum, and let simmer gently till the fish is done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few minutes, keep warm by means of warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster, oyster, shrimp or hollandaise sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of dressed cucimiber usually; accompanies this fish, and a little lemon-juice squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable addition. Peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially adapted to be served with salmon. Boiled is the best way of cook- ing salmon. For a more fancy dish arrange in the form of a letter S, as follows : Thread a trussing-needle with some twine ; tie the end of the string around the head, fastening it tight; then pass the needle through the center part of the body, draw the string tight, and fasten it around the tail. The fish will assume the desired form. Salmon 282 jFisH. prepared thus is very nice served cold at evening parties with a mayonnaise sauce poured over. It may then be mounted on a pedestal which may be carved with a sharp knife in any form de- sired from bread two or three days old, fried a nice brown in deep lard, or made of wood covered with white paper brushed over with aspic jelly; the salmon should then also be decorated with bits of aspic jelly in squares or other forms. Cauliflower blossoms and sliced or quartered hard-boiled eggs make a very pretty and appro- priate decoration when served with the mayonnaise sauce. Broiled Salmon Cutlets. — Cut slices an inch thick, and season with pepper and salt ; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with the ends twisted ; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with anchovy or caper sauce. When higher season- ing is liked, add a few chopped herbs and a little spice. Escalloped Salmon. — Roll fine one quart crackers, season with salt and pepper and mix with one can salmon ; put in a skillet and add milk (or milk and water) to moisten well, and some bits of but- ter. Cover and steam thoroughly. Fried Salmon Steaks. — Cut slices an inch thick from the mid- dle of the fish, wipe dry and sprinkle on a little salt, then dip in egg and cracker dust and fry in hot salad oil or butter, turning to brown both sides. Drain and serve on hot platter lined with clean paper fringed at the ends ; garnish with parsley. Canned SaCmon. — The California canned salmon is nice served cold with any of the fish sauces ; mix together yolks of three efggs, half cup each cream and vinegar, two teaspoons brown sugar, salt, pepper, and celer3'-seed to taste ; boil thick like custard and pour over one can salmon. For a breakfast dish, it may be heated, seasoned with salt and pepper, and served on slices of toast, with milk thickened with flour and butter poured over it. Crimped Salmon. — Take a middle cut of fresh salmon and cut in slices two or three inches thick. Lay in cold salted water one ho,ur ; then place in boiling salted water, skim and simmer gently twenty minutes, if ■\-ery thick slices. Garnish as in boiled salmon and serve with same sauce. Salmon Pudding. — Chop a can of preserved salmon or an equal amount of cold, either roast or boiled, and rub it in a mortar, or in a bowl with the back of a spoon, adding four tablespoons melt- ed — not hot — butter, until it is a smooth paste. Beat a half cup fine bread-crumbs with four eggs and season with salt, pepper and minced parsley, and mix all together. Put into a buttered pudding mold and boil or steam one hour. ]\Iake a sauce with one cup milk thickened with tablespoon coi'n-starch, the liquor from the canned FISH. 283 salmon, and tablespoon butter, or double the quantity of butter whea the liquor is not used, teaspoon anchovy, mushroom or tomato cat- sup, a pinch of mace or cayenne, and a beaten egg stirred in last very carefully. Boil one minute, and when the salmon is turned from the mold pour the sauce over it. Cut in slices at table. A very nice supper dish. Stewed Salmon. — Stew a can of salmon in the liquor, (or cold, boiled or roast in a very little water), slightly salted, ten minutes. Have ready in a large saucepan a cup drawn butter thickened with rice- flour or corn-starch. ■ Season with cayenne and salt to taste and stir in carefully two beaten eggs, then the salmon. Let it come to a gentle boil, add two hard-boiled eggs and some capers or green pickles, all chopped fine, and turn into a covered deep dish. Or add the hard-boiled eggs and capers to the stewed salmon, with a table- spoon butter; toss up lightly with a fork, pepper slightly, and heap in the center of a hot flat dish, then pour the boiling sauce over all. Very nice either way. Sardines. — These are small fish of the herring family and come to us in half pound and pound tin boxes, preserved in oil, averaging from a dozen to twenty-four fish. They are an excellent relish and form a wholesome and agreeable addition to a breakfast, luncheon, or tea. Take out carefully, whole if possible, place on platter and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, serving a slice with the fish. The American Sardines, or shrimps, are used but are larger and not considered as delicate. For Fried Sardines, procure largest- sized sardines, remove from oil, place on dish, and let drain a few minutes ; dip fish in well-beaten egg, and roll in cracker crumbs ; fry brown as fritters or in a little butter or oil ; mix oil left in box with cracker-crumbs, make in very small cakes and fry and use as a garnish for the fish, alternated with sprigs of parsley. Serve hot. If one wishes ^■'^"'^e-Made Sardines can be made : Clean small fish, shrimps are nice, salt slightly and let stand overnight ; in the morning drain. Fry in oil, Just enough to cook them, then pack in tin cans or boxes, or glass cans, putting them in as closely as pos- sible. Cover with oil, and, if in boxes, solder the tops on ; if bottles, screw the covers on tight. Put cans in a kettle of cold water, and bring to a boil as quickly as possible. Let boil about an hour and a quarter, then punch a small hole in tin cans to let out the gas, and seal again, immediately. If in glass, unscrew the top and screw it on again as soon as possible. Let stand awhile before using. A favorite Parisian dish is made of sardines carefully skinned and boned, laid on slices of buttered toast, and then put into the oven, with buttered pqpcr over them, to get hot. Before serving, lemon juice is sprinkled over. Baked Shad. — Open and clean fi^h, cut off head (or not as pre- ferred), cut out backbone, from the head to within two inches of the 284 FISH. tail, and fill with the following mixture : Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry ; cut a large onion in pieces, frj- in butter, chop fine, add bread, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and a little finely chopped onion, parsley or sage ; heat thoroughly, and when taken from the fire, add two yolks of eggs well-beaten ; stuff, and, when full, sew or wind the fish several times with tape, i^lace in baking- pan and cover the bottom of pan with water, adding a litjtle butter, and baste often. "When done serve with the following sauce : Re- duce the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste, add two table-spoons olive oil, half teaspoon mustard, and pepper and vinegar to taste. Planked Shad is very delicious. Take a heavy oak plank 18x24 inches in size, and about an inch thick. The shad must be a perfectly fresh, solid and firm roe shad ; wash, wipe, salt on both sides and lay on board, skin side down ; put the roes in their places, and bake from thirty to forty minutes. If it does not brown easily, rub butter over when partly done. The smoking of the wood in the oven adds to the flavor. Baked Sheeps-head. — "When ready for cooking, salt and pepper well, gash the sides in three or four places, mince four onions fine, add one pint bread-crumbs, a little finely minced fat meat, yolks of two eggs ; blend all together ; season with a little cayenne pepper, salt and thyme; with this stuff the fish and fill gashes on the out- side ; sprinkle over with flour and black pepper ; bake slowly in a large pan with one quart hot water two hours. Serve with any sauce preferred. Sardine Sauce is a capital fish sauce. For this bone half a dozen large sardines, make an ordinary sauce of butter and gravy, and in this boil the bones, together with a minced shalot, lemon peel, a bay leaf, and some pepper, and either nutmeg or mace. Boil fifteen minutes, or until all the several flavors have been ^obtained ; then strain the sauce and add to it the sardines, chopped Bmall. Baked Smelts. — "Wash, and dry twelve smelts thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover -n-ith fine bread-crumbs, and little pieces of butter. Season with salt, cayenne, and two blades pounded mace, and bake for fifteen minutes. Just before serving, ndd a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish •nith fried parsley and cut lemon. For Fried Smelts the fish should be very fresh, and not washed more than is necessary. Dry them in a cloth, "lightly flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard as doughnuts to nice pale brown ; be careful Q not to take off the light rouglmess of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled. Dry them before the fire on a drainer, and serve at once (or the crisimess and flavor will be lost,) with plain melted butter. Or place on skewers with thin slices of bacon between the fish ; fry in hot lard or oil as above, serving one skewerful, skewer and all, to each person, garnishing with lemon slices. Use either silver FISH. 285 plated or polished wire skewers. They are about three inches long. Fried Filleted Soles. — Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and wash the fish, raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs ; fry as doughnuts. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on a reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat ; or place a sheet of kitchen paper in a dripping pan ; place the fillets on that and set in oven a moment or two. Particular attention should be paid to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy, fish. Serve hot and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they look much better than when fried whole. Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish. Any fish may be filleted as above. Bailed Sturgeon. — A piece of sturgeon weighing five or six pounds is enough for a handsome dish ; skin and put in salted water and parboil for half an hour to remove superfluous oil ; pre- pare a dressing of bread-crumbs, fine bits of fat salt pork, sweet herbs and butter ; gash upper end of fish quite deeply and rub this forcemeat in well ; place in baking dish on trivet with a little hot water to prevent burning and bake an hour. Serve with a drawn butter sauce in which has been stirred a tablespoon caper sauce and one of walnut catsup or anchovy sauce. Sturgeon Steaks. — Skin steaks carefully and place in cold salted water for an hour to remove oily taste ; wipe dry, broil over hot coals on a buttered gridiron. When done serve on hot platter seasoned with pepper and butter, and salt if needed, and garnish with parsley and slices pf lemon. Serve the latter with the fish. Make a sauce by browning tablespoon butter in pan, then add a tablespoon browned flour first wet with a little cold water and then stirred into a half teacup boiling water, season and add a teaspoon Worcestershire or anchovy sauce and juice of a lemon ; when it boils serve in gravy boat with the steaks. Baked Trout. — Scale and scrape clean a seven-pound Lake Superior trout, but do not cut ofi'head or tail; wash inside quickly with cold water and rub well Avith salt and pepper if wished ; then score the top (back) offish by making gashes two and a half inches long, an inch deep and three inches apart ; now stuff with a rather dry dressing made by cutting off' crusts from four or five slices bread, 286 FISH. put in pan, pour over a very little boiling water, cover tightly with a cloth, and when soft add tablespoon butter, pepper, salt, an egg and the bread from which the crusts were cut. Mix well and add a little seasoning of sage, marjoram, or any mixed seasoning, using only a very small pinch ; sew up and tie securely in a circle by placing a string around the back of head under the gills and then around the first score above the tail, and putting the tail in the mouth ; cutting a few small gashes in the side offish next to the in- side of circle facilitates the shaping. Beat two eggs and spread over fish, having first placed it on a large tin or earthen plate, putting egg batter well inside the gashes, sprinkle with finely rolled cracker crumbs and put a little butter in each gash and more on top, unless a very fat fish. Place in dripping pan on the plate or trivet in a moderately hot oven and add one quart boiling water and tablespoon salt ; in ten minutes baste well and baste every ten. minutes till fish is done (in two hours). Bake slowly first hour, add more water if needed, then increase heat third half hour so that for last half hour the oven is very hot, thus nicely browning the fish. The basting every ten minutes is very important and must be done to avoid a dried-up, taste- less fish. Slip from plate to hot platter and serve at once, garnished with parsley. The marinade given in preface may be used in place of E art of the water, and gives a fine Fuh Knira and Fork, avor. To serve easily carve with a fish knife and_ fork. Treat a white fish as above and a delicious Baked White Fish will result. Brook Trout. — Wash and drain in a colander a few minutes, split nearly to the tail, flour nicely, salt, and put in pan, which should be hot but not burning ; throw in a little salt to prevent, sticking, and do not turn until brown enough for the table. The general defect in cooking trout when fried, is over cooking. They should never be done to a crisp. Fry also in a little butter or oil and omit the flour, frying them perfectly plain. For Broiled Trout wrap in a piece of glazed paper, which should be well buttered ; sprinkle a very little salt and pepper on them ; put them in a double broiler and turn the broiler over from side to side. Serve with lemon juice over them. Boiled Trout is better than fried or broiled. Put trout on a napkin, sprinkle with salt, fold together and put in boiling salted water. If they are of medium size will bo cooked in two or three minutes. "When done place on a clean napkin on a hot platter and serve with fret^h butter and boiled potatoes. For Baked Trout, dry the fish, do not split them ; lay on baking dish, add a little butter, pepper and salt. Serve as soon as done, which will be in fifteen or twenty minutes. FISH. 287 Fried Whitebait. — These fish must be put into ice water as soon as bought unless cooked immediately. Drain from the water in colander, and have ready a clean dry cloth, over which put two good handfuls flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake lightly in the clotli, and put in a wicker sieve to take away the superfluous flour. Throw into a pan of boiling lard, very few at a time, and let fry till a whitey-brown color ; take out and lay over the fire for a minute or two on a sieve reversed, covered with blotting paper to absorb the fat. Dish on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very high in the center, and sprinkle a little salt over the whole. Baked White Fish. — Take out bone and skin as in general directions, and cut fish in pieces three inches long and two inches wide. Use two soup plates or deep earthen dishes same size, butter thickly with cold butter, place in layer of fish, season with pepper, salt and a little butter, then anotlier layer fish, season as above using much more butter on last layer ; then butter inside of second dish very thoroughly and turn it upside down over the fish ; put in Oven and bake twenty minutes, or till fiakes break. Boiled White Fish. — Clean, wash and put a whole fish in kettle and cover with stock made as follows : Fry in saucepan two onions, a carrot, a piece of celery or celery seed, a tablespoon butter, one of flour, a sprig of parsley, a teaspoon of whole black peppers, and three cloves ; add two and a half quarts of water and two cups vinegar, boil twenty minutes, salt and skim, and when cold pour over fish, and boil gently until done. Dish on hot platter and garnish with potatoes cut in little balls, and placed like little piles of cannon balls around the dish. The potatoes should be simply boiled in salted water, and, if 'liked, may be browned in a little butter in frying-pan. An alternate pile of button mushrooms are a nice addition, and good also. Parsley or small curled lettuce leaves are placed between the piles. The fish may be stuffed before boiling with a dressing of rolled crackers seasoned With butter, pepper, salt and sage. See directions for boiled fish. For Spiced Fish take any cold cooked fish. Take out all bones and bits of skin, lay in a deep dish arid barely cover with hot vinegar in which a few cloves and allspice have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold. For Kedgeree, pick cup cold fish carefully from the bones, mix with cup boiled rice, tablespoon butter, teaspoon mustard, two soft boiled eggs, salt ^nd cayenne to taste ; place in oven fifteen minutes and serve hot. The quantities may be varied according to amount of fish used. Or, chop two hard-boiled eggs slightly and put into a saucepan with a little melted butter, add fish and rice as above,- stir over the fire until very hot, taking care that it does not burn, and just before serving add a teaspoon curry powder and a saltspoon each n: FISH. epper and salt. Pile high in the middle of a hot dish and sprinkle nely chopped parsley over the top. Creamed White Fish. — Steam a white fish till tender, take out bones and sprinkle with white pepper and salt. For dressing, heat a pint of milk, or stock, thicken with two tablespoons flour and season with a little chopped onion, or onion juice and parsley ; some add also juice of half a lemon or a tablespoon vinegar ; when cool add two tablespoons butter and two well-beaten eggs. Put in a buttered baking dish a layer of fish, then a layer of the sauce or dressing till full, with sauce last ; cover the top with bread crumbs, add a little grated cheese if lilied, bake half an hour, and serve in dish in which it was baked, garnished with slices of hard-boiled eggs alternated with sprigs of parsley. In making the sauce some prefer to brown the flour in the butter, then add the stock or milk and other ingredients. A less rich sauce is one quart rich milk thickened with three tablespoons flour mixed smooth with a little of the quart of milk, two or three sprigs of parsley, an onion chopped fine, little cayenne and salt. Stir over fire till it thickens and add butter size of an egg. Some do not cool the fish before creaming, but skin and bone it, cut into pieces about three inches square, and bake in a shallow dish in two layers, with sauce inter- vening. Serve garnished with parsley and slices of hard-boiled egg. This quantity is enough for three pounds of fish, weighed after being skinned and boned, and will serve six persons if it is the only solid dish for dinner, or ten if served in a course. This dish is also called Fish au Gratin, and another way is to skin, cut ofi the head, and take out the back-bone, leaving the fish in two large pieces. Season the fish, and prepare the sauce as before ; butter a tin sheet that will fit loosely into a large baking-pan, lay the fish on this and moisten well with sauce, cover thickly with bread- crumbs, and cook half an hour in a rather quick oven. Slip on hot platter and serve with tomato, tartare or hollandaise sauce poured around the fish. Cod cusk, flounder or any kind of light fish may be served after one or the other above methods. Warmed-over IHsh. — Stir a tablespoon flour into two of hot butter in saucepan, and add a half pint cold flaked fish, a tea- spoon cold butter, dessert-spoon each anchovy or any other meat saiice and mixed mustard, a cup cream or thickened milk, pepper and salt to taste and a few bread-crumbs. Heat to boiling i)oint and serve hot. Or, put into buttered dish with bread-crumbs and bits of butter over the top, and brown. ' FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 289 FRITTERS AND OROQ,UETTES. Make the fritter batter quickly and beat thoroughly until smooth. A good rule is two eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- rately, half pint milk, one level teaspoon salt, and pint flour, a tablespoon American cooking oil, or butter, or salad oil, and a seasoning of cinnamon or nutmeg may be added if wished ; if the batter is for fish or meat fritters add a saltspoon white pepper and a dash of cayenne. Water may be used instead of milk, with a table- spoon or two of lemon juice if liked, and some add the wetting gradually. The batter for fritters should be just thick enough to drop, not run, from the spoon — do hot make too stiff — and should be made an hour before using. Some claim it is better to stand a day, as the grains of iiour swell by standing after being moistened and thus become lighter. Add the whites of eggs — and when baking powder is used, that also— ^'msj! hefore frying. Less eggs are needed with baking powder, using one egg in the above batter with a heaping teaspoon baking powder or teaspoon cream tartar and half teaspoon soda. The fritters are much nicer with the eggs, and without the rising powders, but it is convenient to use the latter when preparing for immediate use. Some use crafcker dust instead of flour, thinking it makes the batter lighter. Arrowroot may be used to thicken batters, sauces, etc., making the mixture much more delicate, and with it butter can be omitted. Its thick- ening property is about three times that of flour. It is better not to use sugar in the batter,- as it tends to make it heavy, but sprinkle it over the fritters in the dish when just ready, to serve, though in 19 290 FEITTEES AND CROQUETTES. making fruit fritters some stir in a little sugar. Fruit fritters are made by chopping any kind of fresh or canned fruit fine and mixing it with batter, or by dipping it whole, halved, quartered or sliced into the batter, using a skewer or fork for this purpose, and taking a pint or less of any kind of fruit for the above quantity of batter. The fruit may be improved in flavor by sprinkling sugar and grated lemon or orange peel over it, and allowing it to remain two or three hours, after which drain and dip in the batter as above ; or, marinade the fruit in a thin orange or lemon syrup. To marinade anything, is to leave it in a composition long enough to absorb the flavor — in this case, from one to two hours. Pork fritters are made by dipping thin bits of breakfast bacon or fat pork in the batter. The common practice is to fry fritters in lard, but the American cooking oil is much superior and no more expensive. It never burns, can be used again and again, and keeps clear and perfectly sweet. Clarified drippings (see index), or half drippings and half lard, is much better than all lard. Have the fat in which to cook them nice and sweet, and heat slowly. Clarified fat boils at about five hundred degrees — more than double the heat of boiling water — and fat actually boiling will burn to a cinder anything that is dropped into it. The proper cooking heat is three hundred and seventy-five degrees, and is indicated by a blue smoke arising from the surface of the fat. When this point is reached, the fat may be held at that degree of heat, and prevented from burning by drop- ping into it a peeled potato or a piece of hard bread, which furnishes something for the fat to act ui^on. Generally the cold batter lowers the temperature of the fat sufficiently to keep it at proper cooking heat. The heat may be tested by dropping in a teaspoon of the batter; if the temperature is right it will quickly rise in a light ball with a splutter, and soon brown ; drop the batter in by spoonfuls, being careful not to crowd, and fry to a golden-brown, turning with a wire spoon to brown both sides ; if the fat is of the right heat the fritters will be done in from three to five minutes and be light and deliciou.s ; if they should begin to brown ti)o much check the heat at once ; take wp carefully the momeid they are done, with a wire spoon or skimmer, drain in a hot colander, or in a pan with brown kitchen paper or blotting paper in the bottom to absorb the fat, set in oven to keep hot ; some drain on an inverted sieve, placing paper both under and over the fritters. Sift powdered sugar over them, PEITTEES AND CROQUETTES. 291 some use a little nutmeg or cinnamon also, and serve hot on a clean napkin to absorb any remains of fat ; or line the dish with tissue paper fringed at the ends ; paper napkins are nice for this purpose. To keep hot, cover with a napJcin, never with a dish-cover ; the former absorbs the steam that arises, which would otherwise gather on the inside of the cover, and dropping back on the fritters would make them soggy and heavy. A Fritter Doily, made of butchers' linen in the shape of a maltese cross, with any pretty design worked in the corners, is a new an,d happy conceit, as the fritters may be served upon it and the four ends be brought up to cover them. Always serve at once (frying as wanted) with syrup or honey, or any sweet sauce preferred, for which see Puddings. In all the recipes that follow, the mode of testing the fat and frying is the same as given above. A tablespoon of batter makes a fritter of the usual size, a teaspoon about the size of an oyster. Fritters bear a bad reputation, but when properly made, and eaten occasionally for a change, are quite as wholesome as many of the messes recommended as food for dyspeptics Apple Fritters. — Make a batter in proportion of one cup sweet milk to two cups flour, a heaping teaspoon baking powder, two eggs beaten separately, one tablespoon sugar, and saltspoon salt; heat the milk a little more than milk-warm, add slowly to the beaten yolks and sugar, then add flour and whites of eggs ; stir all together and throw in thin slices of good sour apples, dipping the batter up over them ; drop in lard in large spoonfuls with piece of apple in each, and fry to a light brown. Serve with maple syrup or a nice syrup made of sugar. Another way of making is to beat three eggs very lightly, stir in one teaspoon salt, one-half cup sugar, one pint milk, two cups chopped apple and two cups flour. Flavor with nutmeg. Stir all well together and fry as directed in preface ; sift sugar over them and serve. Or, peel, steam and pulp six good sized apples, add juice two lemons, four well-beaten eggs, sugar to taste and a little cream. Mix thoroughly, roll into balls with enough cracker dust or fine bread-crumbs to keep in shape and fry as above. Serve strewn with powdered sugar. A very nice way of preparing the apples is to pare and cut them across in slices about an inch thick, then with the corer remove the core from each slice, leaving a round opening in the center. Dip into the batter and fry each slice separately, lay them in a dish in a circle overlapping one another, sprinkle with sugar, and «erve with a sweet sauce in the 292 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. center. Orange Fritters are prepared as above, and make a deli- cious desert. Apricot Fritters. — Cut apricots in quarters, remove skins care- fully and soak for an hour in orange syrup, drain on a sieve and dip each piece into this batter : Mix with one and one-half pints flour two tablespoons butter, two yolks of eggs and a little salt ; stir in slowly and a little at a time a tablespoon more than a pint luke- warm water, and work the batter with a wooden spoon until it looks creamy, then add well-whipped whites of three eggs. Fry a golden brown color, place in a dish, sift powdered sugar over, and send to table with a custard poured around them, dipping a spoonful over each fritter in serving. Fritters may be prepared as above with any stoned fruit. Banana Fritters. — One cup flour, yolks of two eggs, pinch of salt, two tablespoons melted lard or butter, water to make a batter as above. Add the whites beaten to a stifl' froth, and stir in lightly three or four bananas cut in slices. Dip with a spoon and fry as directed in preface. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with whipped or plain sweetened cream. This will make a dessert for eight persons. Berry Fritters. — One and a half pints flour, gill cream, or tablespoon melted butter, pint milk, six eggs, teaspoon salt ; mix well and add either blackberries, currants, gooseberries or rasp- berries and fry by spoonfuls. Eat with a hard sauce. Brain Fritters. — Beat one egg and a half cup sweet milk with sufficient flour to make a thick batter, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Beat well and stir in beef or pork brains. Drop by spoonfuls, and fry in hot fat. Considered by some superior to oysters cooked in same way. Calie Fritters. — TaKe six or eight stale small sponge cakes and roll or pound fine ; pour a cup boiling hot cream over them and stir in tablespoon corn starch wet with a little cold milk ; cover for half an hour, then beat until cold and add the yolks of four eggs, beaten light and strained, the whipped whites^ then a quarter pound cur- rants thickly dredged with flour. Beat all well together. Drop from tablespoon, fry quickly and serve hot with any nice sauce. Or, make a sponge-cake batter, drop by teaspoonfuls and fry as above. Serve for dessert with a hot sauce. Celery Fritters. — Boil thick but tender stalks of celery in salted water ; when done dry on a cloth, cut in equal lengths atiout one and a half inches ; fry in batter to a golden color, sprinkling fine salt well over, and serve. If wanted extra nice cut a half dozen stalks tender, well blanched celery into pieces an inch or two long FRITTEES AND CROQUETTES. 293 and boil in salted water until tender. While boiling make a batter as follows : Mix smooth the yolk of a raw egg and a tablespoon salad oil ; add a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, sift in a half pint flour and add water to make a batter that will drop from spoon. Just before using add whipped whites of two eggs. Dip the cooked celery in this and fry a delicate brown in hot fat ; drain and serve at once. Clam Fritters. — Wash one dozen hard or soft shell clams, divide soft and hard parts of each clam, boil the latter in water half an hour, or till tender, drain, chop fine and add the water in which they were cooked, also the soft parts, yolks of two well-beaten eggs, saltspoon salt, dash or two of cayenne, half pint milk, whites of eggs, and flour so that batter will drop from spoon ; fry as above. Or, make a batter with juice, an equal quantity of sweet milk, four eggs to each pint of liquid, and flour suflicient to stiffen; add chopped raw clams, or dip in the whole clam and fry. Corn Fritters. — To one quart grated raw sweet corn, (fifteen common-sized ears) add yolks of three eggs and scant three-fourths pint cracker-crumbs ; if corn is not juicy use less, making batter only stiff enough to drop from spoon. Beat very thoroughly, season with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites, and drop with tea- spoon and fry ; turn out and drain as directed. Serve hot, using the fritter doily in dish, or place an ordinary napkin under and over. Some add to this batter a piece of salt codfish, size of a silver dollar, shredded very fine, as this gives the peculiar oyster taste, and hence the name sometimes given them of Corn Oysters. Above proportions make six dozen fritters, and are very easily made. Or, for Dried Corn Fritters, grate corn as above and dry on plates so as to preserve all the juice, as in recipe for drying corn, or better on the evaporator hereafter described. To make, soak the grated corn overnight in water or milk, and add eggs and crackers as above. These are as delicious as when made from raw corn, and well repay the trouble of drying the corn. Corn Meal Fritters. — Beat and strain the yolks of four eggs ; add one tablespoon each sugar and melted butter, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon soda dissolved in hot water, a pint each milk and best corn meal, (sugar may be omitted). Beat hard five minutes and stir in the whipped whites of the eggs and a half cup flour into which a teaspoon cream tartar has been sifted. Beat again thoroughly, adding more milk if necessary to make it drop from the spoon ; fry, drain and serve at once with a hard sauce. Cream Fritters. — Whip the whites of five eggs ana stir into one cup cream, add two full cups _ flour, a saltspoon nutmeg, a pinch of salt, and teaspoon baking powder. Beat hard two 294 FEITTERS AND CROQUETTES. minutes, fry by spoonfuls, drain and serve hot on napkin. Eat with jelly sauce. Currant Fritters. — Put a half pint milk into a bowl with two tablespoons flour, which should previously be rubbed smooth with a little cold milk ; stir well together and add four well-beaten eggs, three tablespoons each boiled rice, and fresh or dried currants, sugar and nutmeg to taste. Beat the mixture a few minutes, and if not thick enough add a little more boiled rice ; fry by spoonfuls a nice brown, pile on a white napkin, strew sifted sugar over and serve very hot with a garnish of sliced lemon. Egg Plant Fritters. — Take a large-sized egg plant, leave on stem and skin and boil in porcelain kettle until very soft, just so that it can be taken out with the aid of a fork or spoon ; take off all the skin and mash very fine in an earthen bowl. When cold add teaspoon salt, plenty of pepper, two tablespoons flour, a half cup cream or milk and three eggs. Have fat hot, drop in batter as for any fritters and brown nicely on each side. Orape Fritters. — Cup flour, yolks of two eggs, two tablespoons salad oil, pinch each spice and salt, and enough cold water to make a batter about like sponge cake. When mixed smoothly add whites of eggs beaten to stiff froth. Dip little clusters of grapes in the batter and fry in smoking hot fat. Take up, drain, dust with pow- dered sugar, and serve either hot or cold as a dessert. Hominy Fritters. — Mix well one pint boiled hominy, one gill cream, two tablespoons corn starch, two eggs, half teaspoon baking powder, saltspoon salt. If too stiff add a little more cream or milk. Fry, drain and dust as above, and serve with any sauce liked. Italian Fritters. — With a wooden spatula stir rapidly into one pound sifted flour one and a half pints boiling water. 4-dd three or four eggs, one at a time, and beat well in, thus forming a very delicate batter paste. Press this through a syringe or confec- tioners' bag into hot lard, and as' soon as a bright yellow color they are done. ' Drain in colander, pile on a dish and powder plenti- fully with fine sugar. This is a favorite dish in Italy, called there "cinci." May be served with a sauce if liked. Lemon Fritters. — Three eggs, one pint flour, three-fourths tea- cup powdered sugar ; beat the yolks well, add flour and enough milk — about a gill — to make a stiff batter ; beat the whites stiff with the sugar, the juice of a lemon and some of the yellow peel grated. off, or teaspoon extract of lemon, and beat into the batter just before frying. Lobster Fritters. — Put one lobster in two quarts boiling water with a half cup salt, and boil twenty-five minutes ; when cold FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 295 remove the meat and fat and cut into small slices ; put into a sauce- pan a tablespoon each butter and flour, a cup cream, little celery, salt, thyme, white pepper, and a saltspoon parsley ; let boil two minutes and add yolks four eggs ahd the lobster ; mix and set back to simmer five minutes ; pour it out on a well greased dish and set away to get firm by cooling ; cut into slices, dip into fritter batter, (see preface) and fry as directed. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs of parsley, quite dry, fried in lard fifteen seconds. Mince Meat Fritters. — Mix half pound (about one pint) mince meat, four tablespoons bread-crumbs or one tablespoon flour, two eggs and juice of half a lemon ; beat well together and fry as directed. Nutmeg Fritters. — One cup sugar, butter size of hickory nut, one and a half cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda and a little nut- meg. Stir in flour till thick as fruit cake ; drop a teaspoon at a time in hot fat. Very nice for breakfast with coffee. Orange Fritters. — Make a nice light batter with one pint flour, tablespoon butter, half saltspoon salt, two eggs and sufiicient milk to make it proper consistency ; peel oranges, remove as much of the white skin as possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces without breaking the thin skin, unless necessary to remove pips ; dip each piece of orange in the batter, drop in hot fat, and fry a del- icate brown. Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar. Or, cut oranges in slices across, take out all seeds, dip slices in batter, fry and serve as above. Oyster Fritters. — Drain one dozen oysters and dry thoroughly in a towel ; make a batter of two cups flour, yolk of one egg, table- spoon salad oil, saltspoon salt, dust of cayenne, well-beaten white, chopped oysters, and sufficient oyster liquor to make a batter thick enough to drop from spoon. Or, leave oysters whole and dip singly in batter, using a fork or skewer, and fry. For latter way have batter thicker . than if chopped oysters are used. One cup milk may be substituted for the liquor, and some add half teaspoon lemon juice. Parsnip Fritters. — One cup dry mashed parsnip, tablespoon each butter and flour, an egg, and salt and pepper. Stir all together ; drop by spoonfuls and fry as directed. Peach Fritters. — (With yeast.) Sift a quart flour into bowl, add a cup milk and half cup yeast, and set in warm place to rise. This will take five or six hours. Then beat four eggs very light, with two tablespoons each sugar and butter and a little salt ; mix with the risen dough and beat thoroughly with wooden spoon. Knead with the hands ; pull off bits of dough about the size of an 296 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. egg, flatten each and put in the center a peach, from which the stone ' has been taken through a slit in the side ; enclose it in the dough, make into a roll and set in order upon a floured pan for second rising. The balls must not touch and should be light in an hour. Have ready a large kettle or saucepan of hot lard, drop in the balls and fry more slowly than fritters made in the usual way. Drain on hot white paper, sift powdered sugar over and serve hot with rich sauce. These fritters may be made of canned peaches or apricots drained and wiped dry. Pineapple Fritters. — Pare a pineapple with as little waste as possible and cut into rather thin slices ; soak the slices four hours in a lemon syrup, dip into the fritter batter given in preface and fry. Serve quickly, strewn with sifted sugar. A very elegant dish. Potato Fritters. — Boil two potatoes, and beat up lightly with a fork^do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat yolks of four eggs well, add two tablespoons each cream and orange juice, two-thirds tablespoon lemon juice and half teaspoon grated nutmeg and beat all together for at least twenty minutes, or until the batter is extremely Ught ; then add well frothed whites of three eggs and fry as directed. Serve with the following hot sauce : Four tablespoons orange juice and half pint boiling water, mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, warmed together and sweetened with white sugar. Or scoop out the insides of four nicely baked potatoes and make as above, using four tablespoons cream and adding two of powdered sugar ; flavor with juice of a lemon and half the grated peel, or a half teaspoon vanilla. Queen Fritters. — Put three heaping tablespoons flour into a bowl and pour over it enough boiling water to make a stifi" paste, stirring and beating well to prevent lumps. Let cool, break into it (without beating) yolks of four eggs and whites of two, and stir and beat all well together ; drop by dessertspoonfuls, and fry a light brown. They should rise so much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in be- tween the fritters. Excellent for a hasty addition to dinner, when a guest appears unexpectedly ; easily and quickly made, and always a favorite. Rice Fritters. — Boil one cup rice in one pint milk until soft ; add yolks of three eggs, one tablespoon sugar, two tablespoons each butter and flour ; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stifi' froth ; drop in spoonfuls and fry a light brown. Serve with sweetened cream or lemon sauce. To make nice fritters with marmalade cook seven tablespoons rice in a quart milk, with six tablespoons sugar and one of butter, over a slow fire until perfectly tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour ; then strain FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 297 away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it six table- spoons orange marmalade and four well-beaten eggs ; stir over the fire imtil the eggs are set; then spread mixture about half an inch thick, or rather thicker, on plate or board. When perfectly cold, cut into long strips, dip in 'batter and fry a nice brown. Dish on a white doily, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly. Another excellent way is to soak a cup rice, three hours in enough warm, water to cover well ; then put it into a farina-kettle, set in an outer vessel of hot water, and simmer until dry. Add two cups milk and cook until it is all absorbed. Stir in one tablespoon butter and take from fire. Beat three eggs very light with three tablespoons sugar, and when the mixture is cold stir them in with a flavoring of nut- meg and a little salt. Make into round flat cakes. Place in the middle of each two or three raisins which have been "plumped" in boiling water, roll the cake into a ball enclosing the raisins, flour well and fry in hot fat. Serve on a napkin, with sugar and cinna- nion sifted over. Eat with sweetened cream, hot or cold. Or scald nine tablespoons rice and boil it in just enough milk to keep rather thick. When partially cooled mix with it a lump of butter, four tablespoons grated cheese and yolks of three eggs. Season to taste, drop into hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a niCe brown. Arrange in a circle on a napkin lapping over one another and serve. Rye Fritters. — Two eggs, three cups flour, one cup rye-meal, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one cup sugar, a little salt ; mix with milk or water, drop from a spoon into hot lard. Sandwich Fritters. — Cut thin slices of bread and butter them ; spread half with any jam that may be preferred, and cover with the other slices; slightly press together, and cut in square, long, or round pieces. Dip in a batter, prepared as in preface, and fry in hot fat for about ten minutes ; drain and sprinkle over with sifted stigar, and serve. Snow Fritters. — The success of these depends upon using snow that has just fallen and is full of bubbles of air, which makes them light. Have the fat hot, and make a thick batter of a pint milk, level teaspoon salt, and sifted flour to make thick enough so that when dropped the batter will cling for a moment to the spoon; when the fat begins to smoke, stir into the batter very quickly a cup newly fallen snow and fry at once by tablespoonfuls. If the batter stands after snow is added the fritters will not be light, because the air will soon escape from the batter. Serve with syrup, sugar and butter, or any sauce preferred. Some add an egg and an apple chopned fine. Walnut Fritters. — Take two-inch squares of baked "walnuts" rolled very thin, marinade in orange syrup and dip in batter and fry. 298 FEITTERS AND CEOQUETTES. Vanities. — ;Beat two eggs, stir in pinch salt and a half teaspoon rose-water, add sifted flour till just thick enough to roll out, cut with a cake-cutter, and fry quickly in hot fat. Sift powdered sugar on them while hot, and when cool put a tea-spoon jelly in the center of each one. Nice for tea or dessert. Croquettes. To make croquettes successfully has heen said to require hoth painstaking and practice, but by observing the directions given here and in the recipes that follow, one who has never before attempted these dainties may, with a few odds and ends from the breakfast or dinner table, create surprisingly tempting dishes, both to the eye and the palate. All ingredients must be thoroughly mixed ; when meat is used all bits of bone, gristle, skin and fat must be carefully removed and meat chopped very fine, and the whole mixture made as moist as can be handled. Very dry or tough meat is not suitable for croquettes ; tender, roasted pieces give the best flavor. When the mixture is to be cooked it is only necessary to thoroughly heat through, and it must then stand until cold before shaping. If too moist add a little cracker-dust or crumbs, if too dry a little cream or yolk of an egg. Use white pepper for seasoning. Croquettes may be made into flat, oval, pear or egg shapes, balls and rolls, of which the latter are most easily made, but the pear shape is the handsomest ; when fried and ready to serve make an incision in the stalk end and insert a piece of citron an eighth of an inch square and about an inch long for a stem, and a clove for the blossom; great care 'oT^qnlmlr^^ is required in shaping and frying. When shaped as rolls they should be about three inches long, and are made by taking the desired quantity of the mixture and rolling it very gently on a board sprinkled lightly with fine bread-crumbs or cracker-dust. Handle very carefully, slightly flouring the hands, as the slightest pressure wiU break them. Let them lie on the CROQUETTES. 299 board until all are finished, when if any have flattened they must be rolled into form again. When croquettes are shaped have ready some well-beaten eggs in a soup plate or shallow dish — the number will of course depend upon the number of croquettes — and some finely rolled bread or cracker-crumbs or cracker-dust on a board, or sheet of clean brown paper. Save all bits of bread for such pur- poses, and prepare by drying in the oven and rolling very Ane, as fine as possible, keeping in a covered box, tin can or glass jar, or in a closely tied paper sack, in dry place. Cracker-dust may be bought at almost any grocery. The croquettes may be single- breaded, double-breaded or double-egg-breaded, according to the amount of moisture they contain, and must always be so thoroughly encased in the egg and crumbs that the fat may not penetrate them. To Single-bread simply coat with the beaten egg first (either by dipping the croquettes into it or brushing them over) and then roll them in crumbs, beginning with those that were first egged and proceeding in that order until all are done. Double-hreading is rolling them first in the crumbs, then coating with beaten egg, and again rolling in the crumbs. To Double-egg-iread, dip first in egg, then roll in crumbs, dip again into the egg, and roll in crumbs again. The croquettes are very much nicer to let stand fifteen minutes after they are crumbed before egging and breading again, and from, a half hour to an hour before frying, which dries the eggs and crumbs thoroughly into a sort of shell. The improvement in appearance and lightness will well repay one for the extra time and trouble. When double-egg-breading some think the croquettes much' handsomer to roll the last time in rather coarse bread-crumbs, using either cracker-dust or fine crumbs for first breading. It is also recommended to add to the eggs to be used in breading a mixture of oil, water, and salt, in the proportion of one tablespoon each oil and water and a little salt. Use either American cooking oil or salad oil. Fry in hot fat or oil, as fritters, a few at a time (a frying basket is very convenient for this purpose), cooking until a rich brown color, which will take a minute or two ; then take up, drain, and serve as directed for fritters. Or they Frying Basket. j^g.y. y^^ ineA. In frying-pan in a little butter or drippings, but are not as nice. In making croquettes after recipes given, any seasoning or flavoring not liked may be omitted and 300 CROQUETTES. another -substituted for it or not as preferred. Croquettes may be fried without breading if making in a hurry, by simply rolling in flour, without using the eggs, but the result will not be so satisfac- tory or pleasing. A pretty breakfast dish may be made of croquettes of fish, lobster, fowl or meat in the shape of hen's eggs heaped upon a dish and surrounded by very thin strips of fried potato, arranged to look as much as possible like straw, and garnished with croutons of bread. Corn fritters and any good meat croquettes are Henssest. nice served together at tea or luncheon on same platter, neatly arranged heaps of fritters on one end of platter and croquettes on the other, placing two fritters and two croquettes upon each plate. Bread Croquettes. — Cut the crust from a stale loaf of bread or rolls, and cut into balls, sc[uares, circles, diamonds, etc. Soak them in a shallow dish containing a cup milk with two teaspoons sugar and a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg (some add a beaten egg), turning occasionally until the whole is absorbed ; or, soak them in a thin custard flavored with lemon-zest, vanilla or rose-water. Do not let them become moist enough to break. Bread and fry as directed in preface, and serve with lemon sauce. Chicleen Croquettes. — Take cold minced chicken and bread crumbs in the proportion of one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as meat, and one egg beaten light to each cup of meat, with gravy enough to moisten the crumbs and chicken — or, if there is no gravy, a little drawn butter or cream ; add pepper, salt and chopped parsley to taste, and mix with meat the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine with a spoon. Mix all into a paste, shape into balls with floured hands, double-bread them and drop into hot lard. Drain and serve in a heated dish, garnished with cresses or parsley. Mashed potato may be used instead of bread-crumbs, taking two- thirds as much potato as meat. Or, fry three shallots in butter, add half pint chopped chicken, dredge in teaspoon flour, season with pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and add sufficient white sauce to moisten it; stir in yolks of two well-beaten eggs, and cool. Then make mixture up in balls, single-bread and fry a nice brown. They may be served on top of border of mashed potatoes with gravy or sauce in center. Or, chop cold chicken with a few slices ham, fat or lean, add half as much bread-crumbs, season with salt and pepper, a little nutmeg, teaspoon each made mustard and catsup and tablespoon butter ; mix and work weU together, make CEOQTTETTES. 301 into cakes, single-bread and fry ; or another good proportion is a full pint cooked and finely chopped chicken, one tablespoon each flour and salt, half teaspoon each pepper and onion juice, one cup cream or chicken stock, and three tablespoons butter. Boil the cream or stock, add chicken and seasoning and boil two minutes ; stir in two well-beaten eggs and take from fire immediately. When cold, shape, roll in crumbs and fry. Finely chopped onion is often used instead of onion juice, and chopped mushrooms are a nice addition. Chopped parsley, thyme, sage, mace, nutmeg, or any seasoning liked, may be employed, and some prefer cracker-dust to bread-crumbs.. The meat of any fowl may be used, and Veal, Mutton and Ham Croquettes are make in same way, or half veal and half ham is a nice mixture. Ham and chicken mixed is also good. For a more elaborate dish make the Croquettes with TruMes : Cut cold roast chicken into tiny squares ; take same quantity of truffles, diced, and mix all with some thick, well- seasoned white sauce, into which has been stirred some chopped mushrooms, onions, and yolks of two eggs. Make into balls or any shape fancied, single-bread and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. Chicken Croquettes with Brains. — Chop fine the meat of one cold boiled chicken and add to it the finely chopped meat of two or three calves' brains, first soaking them in cold salted water one hour, then skinning and placing in cold salted water and a little vinegar and boiling ten to fifteen minutes ; season the mixture with salt, pepper, finely-chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a little grated lemon-peel, and add three-quarters cup butter. If too stiff add a little cream. The softer and more creamy they are the better — just so they will hold together ; shape, double-egg-bread and frj^. Serve with tomato sauce with sliced mushrooms ; or, for a Triple Cro- quette, prepare as above half a chicken, one sweet-bread boiled till tender, and one brain, and to the finely-chopped mixture add a well-beaten egg, teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Put in stewpan half pint, cream and add one tablespoon - corn-starch, first mixed smoothly with a little of the cream, then add the chopped and seasoned mixture and stir till it bubbles. Take off, and when cold shape and double-egg-bread ; fry in basket as directed in preface. Chicken Croquettes w%tth Sweetbreads. — Take the white meat of a chicken and pound it to a paste with a large boiled sweetbread freed from sinews ; beat one egg with a teaspoon flour and four tablespoons cream, and add, with salt and pepper, mixing all well together ; put in a pan and simmer just enough to absorb part of the moisture, stirrmg constantly ; turn out on flat dish and set in ice-box to become cold and firm, then roll into small neat shapes of cones, rolls or balls. Handling carefully, and fry a delicate brown. Some add a little grated nutmeg. Or, for a Royal Sweeibreaa^ etir 302 CROQUETTES. two tablespoons butter and one of flour in stewpan over fire ; when it bubbles add little by little one pint cream, then the finely-chopped meat from two sweetbreads soaked five minutes in boiling water, and one boiled chicken, dark and white meat, seasoned with one tablespoon each onion juice (or half teaspoon grated onion) and chopped parsley, one teaspoon mace, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir till well heated, take, from fire, add lemon juice and let cool. When cold roll into shape with fine cracker-crumbs and double-egg- bread as directed, letting them stand till dry after rolling in cracker-crumbs first time, and then using rather coarse bread- crumbs for last rolling. Or, for Croquettes with Bread Crumbs, take after chicken and sweetbreads are finely chopped and seasoned as above (without the lemon juice) an equal quantity of fine bread- crumbs. Place in stewpan as much broth from boiled chicken (having saved it all) as will moisten the crumbs, in proportion of about half pint to a pint crumbs ; add four tablespoons cream and two of butter; when boiling add crumbs till they adhere to spoon. Mix with meat and when cool add two well-beaten eggs and mold into croquettes ; double-bread and fry as above. Crab Croquettes. — Boil two crabs fifteen minutes, remove the meat from the shells and chop it coarsely. Melt three tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir into it six tablespoons flour and add to this by degrees a half pint milk. When this is brought to the boiling point let it boil for two minutes and take from fire. Throw into the saucepan the meat from the crabs, add to the mixture one grain cayenne, half teaspoon pepper, teaspoon each anchovy sauce and salt, and when thoroughly mixed turn it out upon a plate and let cool: When quite cold form into small rolls three inches in length, single-bread and fry; serve on a folded napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley. Cream Croquettes. — Put stick cinnamon one inch long in pint new milk in custard kettle. When hot stir in three tablespoons sugar, two of corn-starch and one of flour, the two latter rubbed smooth with two or three additional tablespoons cold milk; let cook, ten or fifteen minutes, stir in beaten yolks of three eggs, take out cinnamon and place inner kettle on table and stir in half tablespoon butter and half teaspoon vanilla. Pour on a buttered platter till one-half inch high ; when cold cut in two-inch squares, carefully double-bread with cracker-crumbs, having the beaten egg slightly sweetened. Fry as directed and place on papered pan in oven for five minutes to drain and soften the croquettes. Serve hot on a hot dish — this is imperative — first sprinkling with sugar. A richer cream may be made by using three tablespoons butter, two whole eggs, and four additional yolks. Either is simply delicious. Hominy Croquettes. — Pour one and a half pints boiling water on a half pint hominy, stir, cover and boil slowly, stirring occasion-- CROQUETTES. 803 ally for twenty minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the hominy rather stiff; add one and a half gills milk and teaspoon salt, stir thoroughly, cover and let stand ten minutes, cooking again if necessary, very slowly ; it should be like a tolerably thick batter, but not too thick to drop. Beat in a tablespoon butter and pour the whole into a shallow pan to cool — if allowed to get cold it will be too stiff. Make into balls the size of an egg, single-bread and frj'. This quantity should make fifteen croquettes. Or, to make with cold hominy, work two tablespoons melted butter with two cups cold boiled hominy, add two well-beaten eggs and a pinch of salt, beat thoroughly and make into balls or rolls. Some add a cup milk by degrees and two teaspoons sugar. Single-bread them and fry. Serve with syrup or a sweet sauce. Lobster Croquettes. — Finely chop the meat of a lobster, work in two tablespoons butter — melted, but not hot — then a teaspoon each anchovy sauce and lemon juice, a little salt, pepper, mace and lemon peel, two raw eggs, and lastly a half cup bread-crumbs. Make into egg shapes, single-bread them and fry quickly. Drain thoroughly and serve very hot. These croquettes are delicious. The dish should be garnished with slices of lemon. Pass milk or cream crackers with them. Meat Croquettes. — Take cold chicken, or roast or boiled beef or veal, mince very fine, moisten with cold gravy if at hand, or moisten well, and add one egg, season with pepper, salt, and an onion, or sage ; make into small cakes or rolls, single-bread, and fry in lard and butter. One cup fresh boiled rice may be added before making into cakes. Or, take one-quarter I as much > cold potato, either mashed or chopped __^__ , 3,nd pounded fine, as cold cooked beef or meat Me^tcroqurtttr"^ of any kind, chopped very fine, with gravy or cream enough to moisten, add one beaten egg and pepper and salt to taste, with a pinch of marjoram; mix, season, and form into balls. Doulale-bread them and fry in hot lard to delicate brown. Drain and serve hot. Bread-crumbs may be used instead of potato, using half and half, or any proportion wished ; or one-third meat, potatoes and bread-crumbs. For Fresh Meat Croquettes take any fresh meat, beef, veal or mutton, and grind through a small meat cutter, or chop and pound very thoroughly to a jelly, then add quarter as much either bread-crumbs or potatoes ; add egg, etc., and finish as above. Or, prepare meat as aboVe, add pepper and salt, and one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as meat, moisten with a little boiled milk that has cooled, add one egg, a little chopped onion, and single-bread and fry in a little butter, or immerse in hot fat. Oyster Croquettes. — Take half pint each raw oysters and cooked veal, a heaping tablespoon butter, three of cracker-crumbs, 304 CROQUETTES. yolks of two eggs, one tablespoon onion juice ; chop oysters and veal very fine, soak the crackers in oyster-liquor, and then mix all the ingredients and shape, single-bread in cracker-dust and fry. The butter should be softened before mixing. Parsnip Croquettes. — Boil six parsnips till tender ; when cold grate and mix with two eggs, season and add flour, and shape into balls, single-bread or not, and fry by iramersion ; or fry plainly in a little oil, drippings or lard. Potato Croquettes. — Two cups cold mashed potatoes, two well- beaten eggs, one tablespoon melted butter, a teaspoon fine bread- crumbs, salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley, or other seasoning to taste. Mix well, make into balls, single-bread and. fry. Or, melt butter in saucepan, add two tablespoons milk, let boil ; then add potatoes first pressed through sieve, stir well together till potatoes are very hot ; take from fire, add pepper, salt and cayenne, drop in yolks of two eggs, and stir till the heat of potato dries the egg ; let cool and roll into small balls, with a little flour to prevent sticking to hands, and then ' single-bread, using the whites of the two eggs. The yolks give the croquettes a rich yellow color ; if whites were added to croquettes they would be difficult to form into balls and the color would not be so fine. Pice Croquettes. — Put three-fourths pound of rice over the fire in a quart milk and simmer slowly twenty minutes ; remove from fire, stir in beaten yolks of two eggs, a teaspoon lemon juice, saltspoon salt, and three tablespoons sugar ; beat all thoroughly together, turn into a bowl and let stand until cool, then make into balls ; beat the whites of two. eggs until quite light but not to a firm froth, dip the balls into this, then into fine bread-crumbs and fry. Serve thickly sprinkled with sugar. Or, take one large cup cooked rice, half cup milk, one egg, one tablespoon each sugar and butter, half a teaspoon salt, slight grating of nutmeg. Put milk on to boil, and add rice and seasoning. When it boils up, add the egg, well beaten, stir one minute, then take off' and cool. A^'hen cold, shape, single-bread, fry, and serve very hot. Any flavoring can be substituted for the nutmeg. For nice croquettes without eggs put a quarter of a pound of Carolina "head" rice — or nine tablespoons — a pint milk, three tablespoons powdered sugar, butter size of a walnut, and a teaspoon extract vanilla into a saucepan and simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be cooked until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mold into cro- quettes. Beat thoroughly three or four minutes ; turn out on a flat tin, and when cold and stiff' form into balls, single-bread them and fry. A very excellent recipe for croquettes when one has to prepare them hastily and has not time to bread them, is one cup cold boiled rice, a teaspoon each sugar and melted butter, half teaspoon salt, CROQUETTES. 805 one egg beaten light, eight crackers rolled fine, and a little sweet milk ; mix all well together, make into oval cakes and frj'' in butter till a nice yellow brown. Syrup, or a nice sweet sauce, should be served with rice croquettes. Rice Ball Croquettes. — Boil a half pound rice — or eighteen tablespoons — in a quart stock, broth or water very gently for half an hour, add three tablespoons butter and simmer until quite dry and soft. When cold make into balls and fill with the chopped meat of a cold fowl, mixed with six tablespoons each white sauce and broth, which should be rather thick; cover over with rice, single-bread them and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, or a little cream may be stirred into the rice, if liked, before it cools. Or, for a dessert dish, boil the rice in milk, with three or four table- spoons sugar, flavor with lemon peel, vanilla or bitter almonds, and make into balls with a small piece of jelly or jam in the center of each, bread them and fry. Salsify _ Croquettes. — Wash, scrape and boil the salsify till tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix with pulp a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne and lemon juice ; mix ingredients thoroughly together to a smooth paste, and set dish in ice-box to get cold; then shape it into small cakes or cones, single-bread and fry crisp and brown. Yenison Croquettes. — Three-fourths pint chopped venison, one- fourth pint stale bread, crumbed fine, one cup gravy thickened with browned flour, one teaspoon jelly, a pinch of mace, very little grated lemon ^^ peel, and chopped parsley to taste. Stir the jelly ' vcmmn croquat^ into the grav}'^ with the seasoning ; with this mix the meat and crumbs, add the beaten egg, make into rolls, single-bread them and - fry. Mutton Croquettes are nice made same way. 20 306 FRUIT. FRUIT. Fruit is very generally and erroneously regarded as a luxury rather than as a valuable, even necessary, article of food, and many housekeepers who now stint this supply for economy's sake would do better to banish rich pastry entirely from their tables and substitute instead an abundance of fruit. Acid fruits furnish oxygen in abundance, and consequently assist in the assimilation of the carbonaceous elements of food. If the diet is largely made up of fats, sweets and starchy foods, which are mostly carbon, a great deal of oxygen is needed to carry on the necessary chemical combustion, and when this is not obtained either by out-of-door exercise or the free consumption of fruit, headaches and biliousness result, ultimately followed by more serious disorders, such as neuralgia, rheumatism, fevers and inflammatory diseases. So that for persons engaged in sedentary pursuits it is evident that fi'uit is as necessary asi bread and meat. The hydroganic acid found in most northern fruits not only stimulates digestion, but is itself a nerve food ; peaches, apricots, apples and cherries abound in this acid, retaining it in a large degree when dried, and it is contained also in almonds, raisins and peach pits, which eaten after meals often aid digestion. One or two peach pits eaten regularly thus have been known to effect permanent cures of the nervous forms of indigestion, and if their value in this respect were generally known they would not be so universally wasted. A prominent physician has suggested that "Feast on Fruit Freely," be hung as a motto in every dining room and taught to every person. Fruit should be eaten at meals instead of between meals, and no breakfast, especially, FRUIT. ^ 307 should be made without it." All fruits intended for immediate eating should be gathered before ten o'clock in summer in order to obtain their best flavor. And if the market is to be depended upon the utmost care should be exercised in its selection. California and Florida oranges are the best, a difference of opin- ion existing among fruit connoisseurs as to the comparative merits of the two, which rival each other so closely that there is perhaps but little choice. The only really desirable lemons, aside from a few from River- side, California, are the Messinas, Palermos and Sicilys, all foreign importations, ranking in the order named. Choose the heavy fruit, with clean, smooth, thin skin, of a bright yellow color, and the medium sized lemon, known among dealers as the "360" is the best. The large lemons are more showy and Expensive but are apt to be dry. The banana is the most nutritious of all fruits, and is becoming more popular every year. The plantain is a tropical fruit of the banana species, of the same shape and color but much larger^about two feet long and three inches in diameter — is of a coarse fibre and is not palatable raw, but very good fried or baked. It is considered very nutritious and wholesome, and is one of the main products of Honduras. The guava is a fruit not generally known in the north, though quite a demand exists in southern markets. There are several varieties of this fruit, some of which are natives of Asia, some of America, and some are common to both. The best of these is the white guava, which is abundant in the West Indies ; is rather larger than a hen's egg, smooth, yellow and of a peculiar smell. The pulp is of a very agreeable taste, sweet and aromatic, and is used at dessert and preserved. Gauva jelly comes from the West Indies, is highly esteemed, and excellent for giving strength and tone to one after a long illness or when digestion is impaired. Pineapples when well matured are delicious and wholesome, and may be had at almost any season. Of the smaller domestic fruits strawberries may be had from the last of April until into July. The Crescent is the best variety for table use. Cherries ripen in June and the best table varieties are the Oxheart, Whiteheart and Blackheart. The sweet "ground cherry," as it is called, is a fruit but little known in market though 308 FRUIT. it has been successfully grown in private gardens for many years. It is the fruit of a plant which in its general appearance, habits and growth resembles the tomato plant. The fruit is round as a cherry, and about three-fourths of an inch in diameter when taken out of the husk in which it is enclosed. When ripe the fruit falls from the plant and is better to lie in the husk awhile, when it becomes very sweet. It makes most excellent pies, sauce or preserves, and requires very little sweetening. When dried with a little sugar it is equal to raisins for many purposes. It begins to blossom the last of Julj', and, like the tomato, continues to blossom, set and ripen till killed by the frost. Currants include red, white and black varieties, the best of which are known as Cherrj', Fay's ProUfic, White Dutch, and White Grape, and choice fruit can be obtained in almost any market during July. The ripening season begins in June, and the' fruit may be had until into August. Of red rasp- berries the Cuthbert is the finest of any yet known, though excellent fruit is plentiful in its season, which is from the middle of June to the middle of August. White raspberries are scarce and highly prized. Fine black raspberries, or "black-caps," are common everywhere in this country, as are also blackberries, of which the Lawton ranks the highest. Gooseberries are not so much used fresh at table as they should be, as when perfectly ripe they make a delicious dessert. There are a number of varieties, red, yellow, green and white, and may be had from Jlay till August. What are known as whortleberries and huckleberries are often confounded with blueberries, which are much superior though of the same species. The former have larger seeds and not so fine flavor as the latter, and are not so desirable for any purpose. Blueberries make a delicious dessert sprinkled with ice and sugar and served with cream as any other fruit. Every section has its favorite varieties of melons — the earliest shipments coming from the gulf coast islands about June 1st — any of which make a wholesome addition to breakfast or dessert. The nutmeg melons are very choice and have long ranked highest in market, but the Japan melon is a later and still more perfect production. It has a rough green rind, and when well ripened, a smooth, yellow pulp, sweet and luscious. Watermelons are plenty and cheap everywhere. FKUIT. 309 Of the delicious peach only the freestones are suitable for table use when raw, but the "clings" are very fine in compotes, stews, etc. The vegetable or vine peach is another fruit but little known, though very desirable. It grows on a vine similar to a muskmelon vine, and ripens in August. It is of about the size of a large peach, yellow when ripe, and when peeled, halved and the seeds taken out, looks very much like a peach treated in the same manner ; it makes very nice pies, and for sweet pickles and pre- serves is unsurpassed. Apricots and nectarines are fruits similar in character to the peach, without its rough, fuzzy coat, and not to be compared with it in lusciousness and fine flavor. Pears may be obtained from the middle of July until well into the winter, the Bartlett being the choicest and the Winter Nellis being the best keeper. The fine-grained pears are best for eating. There are several good varieties of plums, the California and Oregon fruit, sweet, large and fine flavored, leading. The apple is, however, the staple American fruit, and no other is grown to such perfection or can be so easily preserved through the winter. This fruit is palatable and nutritious, easily digested when perfectly ripe, so common as to be found on the humblest tables, and may be prepared in a great diversity of ways. The albuminous fruits, such as cocoa-nuts, filberts, almonds, hickory nuts, etc., are really seeds, and contain a large proportion of nutritive matter. Cocoa-nuts should be bought cautiously in summer, heat being likely to sour the milk. The Jordan sweet almond is the best, the Tarragon ranking next, and the California Soft Shell being third. The kernels of the sweet almonds are served in either a green or a ripe state at dessert, but the bitter almonds are little used and only in cookery. The arrangement of fresh fruits for the table afi'ords play for the most cultivated taste and not a little real inventive genius. Melons, oranges, and indeed all kinds of fruits, are appropriate breakfast dishes, and a center piece of mixed fruits furnishes a delicious dessert, and is an indispensable orna- ment to an elegant dinner- table. Large fruits, or large oeLttr Piece buuches of fruits are required, and that shown in cut is composed of pears, peaches, apricots, and 310 FRUIT. plums as a kind of raised ground-work, with a magnificent bunch of royal-purple grapes on top. The colors of the fruits should blend harmoniously and the effect should be fresh and apparently un- studied, but they should be firmly placed so that when the dish is moved there will be no danger of an avalanche. Green leaves are well-nigh indispensable to the preparation of fresh fruit for dessert, but there should be just enough and no more ; a judicious peep of one here and another there, a tuft of green on this side and on that is aU. that is needed. Too many leaves will utterly spoil the effect and render it inartistic. This garnishing ■ndth foliage needs especial attention, as the contrast of the brilUant-colored fruits •nith nicely arranged leaves is very charming. The garnish^ar excellence for des- sert is the ice-plant, its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvelous effect in the height of summer, gi'S'iag a most inviting sense of cool- ness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry and vine-leaves have a pleasing efiect ; and for winter desserts the bay, Cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. Flowers may be very gracefully and artistically combined with fruits, and a pyramid of grapes made up of Malagas, Delawares and Concords makes a showy .center piece and a delicious dessert. Rosy-cheeked apples in a firm row for a base, and fine yellow pears piled carelessly on top, stems upward, with a green leaf here and there,make a pretty dish. Apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes hanging from the border of the dish in a neglige sort of manner, with a large bunch of grapes lying on top of the apples. Strawberries and black raspberries in alternate rows, separated by a light fringe of green leaves, in cone-like form, is another attractive dish. Peaches and apricots mingle prettily with green leaves, and plums and green gages set one another off advantageously-^th a judicious addition of leaves. Attractive methods of serving melons and small fruits are given in recipes that follow. Almonds and raisins are served together, the almonds being first blanched, and tHen thrown in among the fruit, Serve large nuts of various kinds together, a sufficient portion for the dessert cut open or cracked, and all care- fully arranged in a pyramid. Nuts of any kind should be so cracked and heaped up. Dates and figs may be put together in a variety of ways, the two colors giving a distinct character, and look well with a few leaves and tufts here and there. Pine-apples are thought to FRUIT. 311 be much more delicious if sliced and sprinkled with sugar, some time before serving, but if wished for a ftf^iaBr more ornamental dish they should be cut JSK^ as illustrated, and served with a border MUl^^ = of oranges and cherries or grapes, with ^^^^^^^^^^£A^m the tuft in the top and a few green leaves '■•991 B scattered about. A pine-apple in the cen- pin»»ppu. ter of a dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and colors, mixed with pears or rosy-cheeked apples, all arranged with a due regard to c(51or, have a good effect. Frozen fruits should stand an hour or so after freezing, and in adding whipped cream beat it in thoroughly with a wooden spoon or paddle. Fruit creams are very elegant desserts, and are made by adding double the quantity of cream to the fruit pulp, which is obtained by passing through a puree sieve. Whip together, sweeten to taste, and serve in glasses with whipped cream on top. To mold fruits, cook slowly with sufficient sugar to form a jelly — pound for pound — and turn into molds. Or to more perfectly preserve the form of the fruit make a jelly of a little of the fruit juice and water, stir in the cooked fruit when both are nearly cold, and turn into molds. One of the most valuable uses of apples is to employ them in conjunction with other fruit — either to amehorate the harshness of damsons or add to the flavor of blackberries, and they are cooked also with quinces, green gages, pineapples, apricots and with rasp- berry or currant preserves. When used with the larger fruits choose apples of same size if possible, and cut in same shaped pieces or slices. An apple-corer, a cheap tin tube, made by any tinner, is indispensable in preparing A le corers. apples for cooklug. They are made in two sizes, one for crab-apples and the other for larger varieties. Rhubarb or pieplant can be mixed with any kind of fruit, half and half, arid in a short time will taste exactly like the fruit with which it is mixed. Compotes of the light-fleshed fruits, such as pears, peaches, apples, etc., may be handsomely colored by adding a little currant jelly or juice, a little water from sliced boiled beets, or a few drops of cochineal coloring. The syrups for compotes should boil until a little cooled in a saucer will form a jelly. When cream is served with fruit it is always much nicer whipped. A covered jar or bean- pot is much the best utensil for baking fruit, confining the steam 312 FRUIT. and requiring little or no water ; the action of the more gentle and uniform heat leaves it in better form, and the syrup is clearer. In peeling fruit the use of the paring knife with a guard, which prevents the removal of any but a thin skin, will not only effect '""""'' '^° '"' a saving, but as in most fruits the best part lies nearest the rind will also insure a better flavor. Sliced fruits or berries are more attractive and palatable sprinkled with sugar about an hour before serving, and then with pounded ice just before sending to the table. When berries are left, scald for a few minutes ; .too much cooking spoils the flavor. Some think manj' of the sour berries are im- proved by sligl^tly cooking them with a little sugar before serving. If a part of the berries are badly bruised, gritty, etc. (but not sour or bitter), scald and drain them through a fine sieve without press- ing them. Sweeten the juice and serve as a dressing for puddings, shortcakes, etc., or can for winter use. In using molds for fruits etc., dip in cold water before filling. Apples. — The varieties are almost innumerable, every section having its preferred kinds, though there are some general favorites, among them the following ; Early Harvests, Red Streaks, Golden Pippins, Pound Sweets, Belle Flower, Maiden Blush, Snow Apples, Winter. Pippins, King's, Spitzenberg, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Genitans, Rhode Island Greenings, Roxhury Russets and Wine Saps. The last eight varieties are all excellent keepers, the AVine Sap keeping the longest, and the Rhode Island Greening is a famous pie apple, "known and used everywliere. The others named are all excellent eatiiig and cooking ajjples. Select smooth, mellow, fine-flavored ones, wash and wipe dry and serve at dessert heaped in fruit dish with a border of green leaves, or with leaves interspersed. A border of small fruits makes a verj' attractive dish. Baked Apples. — AA'hether plainly or elaborately prepared and served, baked apples form an always acceptable and appropriate dish for breakfast, luncheon, dessert or tea. Sweet apples require longer baking than sour. To bake tart apples, wash and cut out the blossoms and stems, and in the stem end put some sugar ; bake till soft, basting occasionally with the juice in the pan ; serve either warm or cold with sweetened cream or milk. Or, bake them entirely whole and without paring, pricking with a coarse needle to prevent bursting. Put in baking dish, stems upward, and as they begin to warm rub over well with butter. Serve either warm or FRUIT. 313 cold thickly strewn with powdered sugar. For Baked Apples with Sj^rnp take half a dozen apples, a half pound of sugar, and little cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg ; peel and core the apples, put them into a deep pie-dish half filled with water, and add above ingre- dients. Bake until fruit is soft and brown and syrup thick. When cold, place the apples in a glass dish, pouring the syrup over. For a,n extra nice dish, pare and core tart apples, place in pan with a little water, put butter and sugar in cavity, sprinkle cinnamon over, and bake, basting often; serve with sweetened cream or milk- Or, fill cavities with sugar, a little lemon juice or extract, and some thin slices lemon rind ; sprinkle sugar over the tops, baste often, and serve cold with cream, or with whipped cream, flavored with sugar and essence of lemon, or a boiled custard, poured over so as to nearly conceal them. For Spiced Apples pare and core tart apples, fill center with sugar, stick four cloves in the top of each, and bake in deep Pie-plates, with a little water. For StuiFed Apples peel and core large sour apples, put in baking dish with a very little water, and for every half dozen take a cup sugar, half teaspoon mixed ground spices, pinch of salt, two tablespoons each cracker- crumbs and cream, or milk ; mix all well together and fill the core cavities, bake until tender but not broken, basting often with the juice in the dish ; serve either hot or cold with sweetened cream, or place apples in center of a large dish with border of whipped cream around. A really elegant dish. Another equally tempting dish is Jellied Pippins, made by putting in baking dish a layer of pippins or other tender, juicy apples, pared and cored but not sliced. Pour over them a syrup of one cup water and a half cup sugar, stirred over the fire until sugar is dissolved ; cover closely and bake slowly until tender. Take from the oven and let cool without uncovering. Pour off syrup and fill core' cavities with bright fruit jelly. Boil the syrup until quite thick, and just before sending the apples to table stir into it rich cream well sweetened. Serve with apples. For Blushed Apples, peel nice, round, tart apples care- fully, without coring, place in baking dish in one layer, and make a syrup of one pint water and four tablespoons sugar ; add a few cloves, little grated lemon peel and small stick cinnamon ; pour over fruit, cover the dish and bake, being careful not to have them break. When done lift carefully to a handsome platter, and with a small brush tint delicately on one side with a little beaten currant jelly. Strain the syrup and if more than quarter of a pint place on the stove and boil it to that quantity. When cold add juice of half a lemon and pour around the apples. Another simple way is to quarter and core sour apples without paring, put in baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, add a little water and bake until tender. , The proportion of sugar is a gill, and butter half size of an egg, to three pints of apples, and a gill and a half of water. To prepare sweet apples for baking, wash and core but do not pare, 314 FRUIT. though some simply cut out the blossom ends, and when sure fruit is perfectly sound leave entirely whole, pricking to prevent burst- ing. Put them in baking-pan with a little water and let them bake very slowly, basting occasionally. They require several hours, and when done are of a rich, dark brown color ; if taken out too soon they are insipid, Some keep them covered while baking, removing the cover just before apples are done, while others first steam them until quite tender, then put in oven and bake. Serve with whipped or plain sweetened cream or milk. Coddled Apples. — Wash unripe, dark-green, sour apples, and put in porcelain-lined kettle ; cover with water, and boil until ten- der ; pour in a sieve and cool, throw away the water that drains off, pulp through the sieve and add sugar to taste. Serve cold, pouring the pulp in center of dish ; leave it as it falls, without smoothing, and grate a little nutmeg over the top. To be eaten with sugar and cream. Creamed Apples. — Pare and core the fruit and either scald or bake until soft enough to pulp through a colander or sieve ; sweeten to taste, and fill glasses three-fourths full ; sprinkle each plentifully with powdered cinnamon, and when cold put whipped cream over all, heaping until it _ stands in peaks. Another nice way of ^ff& serving is to beat well together two cups Creamed Apple.. grated applcs, One of sugar, butter size of walnut, two tablespoons water, one egg, and a bit of orange or lemon peel; stir all over the fire about ten minute?, and serve either warm or cold with whipped cream heaped high over the whole, or laid upon each saucer. Fried Apples. — Select sour apples and quarter and core with- out paring; prepare frying-pan by heating and puttina; in beef drip- pings, lay apples in skin side down, sprinkle with a little brown sugar, and when nearly done turn and brown thoroughly. Or, cut in slices across the core, about a quarter of an inch thick, put a little butter or drippings in pan, fill with the sliced apples and fry, stirring occasionally' to prevent burning ; serve in dish sprinkled over with sugar. If wanted extra nice, cut a little thicker and fry like pancakes, turning when brown ; as fast a? fried take out on a dish, or platter, sprinkle over with sugar, and place in oven to keep hot, proceeding thus with each panful until a suflficient quantity is done, taking care not to break the slices. Serve in lavcrs on the platter, or neatly placed in individual dishes. Or, for Fried Apples urith Porli, fry in its drippin'gs and serve arranged in a row around the slices of pork, on platter. A dish of Fried Whole Apples is prepared thus : Peel very wniall but prettily shaped apples, leaving stems on. Put into a saucepan of hot butter, and shake over a FEUIT. 315 brisk fire unfe nice brown ; drain, and arrange neatly, stems up, on a thick l>r of sugar in a dish, and serve either hot or cold, Transcendenfabs are verv nice cooked thus. Frosted mles. — Peel pippins, stew in a thin syrup till tender, dip in frotheciiite of egg, and sift powdered sugar thickly over them ; put inol oven to harden, and serve in glass dish. Iced Apjs. — Peel and core one dozen large apples, fill with sugar and a l.e butter and nutmeg ; bake until nearly done, let cool and remt to another plate, if it can be done without breaking them (if not, ]ir off the juice). Ice tops and sides with cake ice- ing, and hio-wiffhtly ; serve With cream. Jellied Ales. — Pare, quarter and core nice golden pippins, cut into slicestew in a little water till tender, and beat to a pulp. Make a thick rup by boiling a pound and a half white sugar and pint of water f two pounds apples, skim, and puta the apple pulp and juice of three hons ; simmer gently until almost a iste, pour into & ^et mold, and wn cold it will turn out a solid jel] Stick thickly with blanched almds and serve sur- rounded with hipped cream or a thick custard. Or, slice the apples and put pudding dish with alternate layers of sugar ; cover with a.plate, pm weight on it and bake in slow oven three hours. Let stand untibld and it will turn out a handsome form of sliced apples imbeddein jelly. Marbled Ailes. — Peel, halve and core a dozen fine apples, place in a pan tckly spread with butter, powder with sugar and grated lemon ]el, and bake in oven. Nearly fill an ornamental mold with applaiarmalade,, leaving an opening in center ; pile the baked apples ini ring upon the marmalade, fill the opening left with custard, al cover the whole, with orange marmalade. Set mold in pan of )t water to bake, and serve hot. Or, pare and core six or seven apps leaving them whole ; boil half pint water and two tablespoon! sugar, put in the apples and simmer gently till tender, taking ce not to let them break. Cover bottom of dish with ajDple mar.alade or apple butter, flavored with lemon, and place apples on his with piece of butter on each, and a few spoon- fuls apricot janor marmalade. Set the dish in oven ten minutes, then sprinkle cer with powdered sugar and brown with sala- mander. Meringued pples. — Put one quart water and two large cups granulated sugain saucepan. Have ten_ apples pared and cored, and as soon as sgar and water boils, put in as maiiy apples as will Missing Page FRUIT. 317 some lemon juice over them, lay upon each a spoonful of thick cream, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. Apple Chocolate. — Boil _ a pound grated chocolate and six ounces white sugar in a quart new milk ; beat yolks of six eggs and whites of two, and when the chocolate has come to a boil take it from the fire and gradually add the eggs, stirring well all the time. Have ready a deep dish with a good layer of cooked and pulped apples in the bottom, sweetened to taste and seasoned' with powdered cinnamon ; pour 'the cho^colate gently over, and place the dish in a saucepan of boiling water.- When the cream is set firmly it is done ; sift powdered sugar over it, and glaze with a salamander or red-hot shovel. This preparation is not only very delicious, but exceedingly salutary, on account of the apples being a corrective to the too great richness of the chocolate. Apple Compotes. — Compotes are very easily prepared, and are said to be the most wholesome manner of serving fruits for those who cannot eat raw fruits or the richer preparations requiring a larger proportion of sugar. Fresh fruits are much more delicious served raw, but the compote is far better than ordinary stewed fruit, makes a nice dessert dish that can be hastily prepared, and apples are very acceptable served thus. A simple way of preparing is to make a syrup of a pound sugar and pint water, boiled together fifteen minutes and carefully skimmed. The fruit is then cooked in this syrup, taken out when tender, and the syrup reduced almost to a jelly by longer boiling, and poured over the fruit when cool. To avoid danger of scorching many prefer to first stew the fruit until tender, but not broken, in clear water, then take it out and add sugar to the water and boil to a nice syrup, put in the fruit again and simmer gently until thoroughly penetrated with the syrup, then take out into glass dish ; boil the syrup until very rich and thick, strain it, let cool, and pour it over the fruit. For an excellent com- pote of apples, peel and core twelve medium-sized apples, throwing them into cold water as fast as peeled to prevent darkening, and proceed after either of the above methods. Any flavoring liked may be added to the syrup — juice of lemon and a little of the rind is nice — and if wanted to cook -very quickly cut the apples into _^_ halves, thirds or quarters, when they will be Appu compote. done in from ten to fifteen minutes. The fruit may be colored pink if liked,, by adding fruit juice or currant jelly to the syrup. Or cook a half quince, cut into four pieces, until tender in a pint and a half water, then add the sugar for the syrup, and put in the apples, taking up the quince with them. This, will color the compote beautifully, and also flavor nicely. Some cook sliced lemon and raisins in the syrup and pour over the apples. Pass plain or whipped sweetened cream with the_dish. For a handsome Stuffed 318 FRUIT. Compote select large, fine pippins of equal size, pare, take out cores, and cook until nearly done in syrup as above ; drain and bake a few moments in a quirk oven. When done, and still hot, fill the core cavities with peach marmalade, and roll each apple in the jelly made by boiling down the syrup, which will give them a beautiful gloss. Serve in a pyramid on a dish with plain or whipped cream around the base. Or form into a dome and cover with a meringue of beaten whites of eggs and sugar, sticking sweet almonds cut into four lengths into the top in regular form, and put in the oven to brown. Or pour among the epples, before putting over the meringue, a marmalade of apples or boiled rice. Another method of serving is to prepare apples and syrup as above, put in the fruit and let cook until clear, remaining whole. Remove the fruit to a glass bowl ; dissolve one-third box gelatine in a half cup hot water, and stir briskly into the syrup, first taking off the fire. Then strain over the apples, and set in cool place to cool. When cold heap whipped cream over it. Some add sliced lemons to the syrup and serve with a slice of the lemon on each apple. Or, for &JBaked Compote take golden pippins, or any similar small apples, pare and core, put into a wide jar with a cover, and for two quarts apples add rind of a lemon cut thin, and strew in a half pound sugar. Cover and set in slow oven several hours. Serve hot or cold. For another elegant compote take smooth, prettily Shaped apples and put into saucepan with enough water to cover ; add a tablespoon powdered cochineal and simmer gently ; when fruit is done take out and put into dessert dish. Make a syrup of the liquor by adding white sugar and juice of two lemons ; Avhen boiled to a jelly put it with the apples, decorating the dish with lemon peel cut into thin strips. Apple Cream. — Peel, core and cut three pounds of apples in thin slices and put in porcelain-lined kettle, with a half pound sugar, grated rind and juice of a lemon, and a teaspoon ground ginger; simmer slowly until apples are tender enough to rub through a sieve. Scald a quart cream, beat in the apple pulp, and serve either warm or cold. Any berries or soft fruit maj- l3e served in the same way, pulping through a sieve without cooking. Apple Fool. — Bake good cooking apples (not sweet), remove the pulp with a spoon, and beat it up with a little powdered sugar. To a cupful add the yolk of an egg and a small sponge cake ; mix together and rub through a sieve. Apple Fortress. — Take good, firm apples, that will not fall to pieces when cooked, and cut into oblong shapes two inches long and one inch thick ; put into a dish, sprinkle them well with white sugar, cover closely and let stand overnight. Xext day place carefully in preserving kettle or pan with more sugar aiid water FETJIT. 319 . and shred lemon peel, and cook gently over slow fire until done, but take care not to do them too soft. When cold build the pieces in shape of a tower with castellated top, fill inside with lumps of jelly, and on top place candied cannon, surrounded with a "ditch" of whipped cream. A really elegant dessert. Begin serving from top. Apple Porridge. — Boil slices of white bread in pint milk; when soft take off fire, sweeten with sugar, and add teaspoon ginger ; Eour in a bowl and gradually stir in the pulp of three or four nicely aked apples. ' Appler^'^ago. — Pare six apples and punch out cores, fill holes with cinnaihbn . and sugar, using two teaspoons cinnamon to a cup sugar; take one tablespoon sago to each apple; wash thoroughly and let soak an hour in water enough to cover apples, pour water and sago overapples, and bake an hour and a half. Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do not cut to pieces easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plen-- ty of sugar. Cover closely and stew an hour or more. The addition of the sugar at first preserves the pieces whole. If they are pre- ferred finely mashed stir occasionally while cooking and add sugar after they are done. Flavor with nutmeg, cinnamon, or cloves', if liked, and some stir in piece of fresh butter. Or, for Baked Apple Sauce, pare, core and quarter tart apples, put a layer in earthen baking-dish, add lumps of butter, Sprinkle with sugar and a little cinnamon, then a layer of apples, etc., till dish is full ; bake till soft. Or, omit butter and cinnamon, and add quarter cup water and half cup sugar to four quarts prepared_ apples ; or two or three times as much water may be used. For Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter and core apples sufficient to fill a gallon porcelain-kettle, put in a half gallon boiled cider and let boil. Wash the apples and put in kettle, place a plate over them, and boil steadily but not rapidly until ■thoroughly cooked,-testing by taking one from under plate with a fork. Do not remove plate until done, or the apples will sink to the bottom and burn. Apples may be cooked in sweet cider in same way. For an Imitation Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter and core the. apples, strew sugar over and let stand overnight. Then stew in their own juice, and they will have a nice flavor and color. Apple Snow. — Pare, core, and bring to boil in as little water as possible six large, tart apples, cool and drain on a sieve, add two tablespoons sugar, beat to a froth and add the well-whipped whites of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoons powdered sugar, or an egg and two-thirds tablespoon sugar to each apple if wanted very light and elaborate ; beat thoroughly until a stiff" snow, flavor with 320 FEUIT. lemon or vanilla or add the grated rind of a lemon ; pile the snow in a rough heap or pyramid and ornament with bits of bright colored jelly, or encircle with a row of candied orange or lemon rings ; serve with sweetened cream, or make custard of yolks, sugar, and a pint milk, place in a dish, and drop the froth on it in large flakes. For Apple Meringue put above mixture into a deep glass dish, cover with the whipped whites of three eggs and three table- spoons sugar, and brown delicately in oven, or with salamander. Apple Tapioca. — Soak half a pint tapioca several hours, or overnight, in half a pint cold water ; cover the bottom of a baking dish with pared and cored tart apples ; fill cores with sugar and bake until tender. Put the tapioca on the fire with the rind of a lemon cut thin, and half a pint cold water ; when boiling add another half pint of boiling water, a gill of sugar, and the juice of the lemon ; boil a moment, pour it over the apples, and bake half an hour or longer. Or, soak half teacup tapioca in one and a half pints cold water on back of stove as above ; then place on the stove and cook till clear, sweeten, and season with a little cinnamon ; then place a layer of pared apples, cut in quarters or eighths, in baking-dish, then a layer of tapioca, then apples, etc., till all are used, and bake as above. Or, for Pine-apples and Tapioca take either fresh or canned pine-apples, chop fine, and add as above, or mix with the cooked tapioca and bake. Apple Toast. — Peel and carefully core the apples. Cut slices of stale bread about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut again to a round shape about the size of the apples, with a paste-cutter. But- ter each slice on both sides and place an apple upon it. Butter baking-dish or pan, put in the apples and bread, fill the core cavity with cream and sugar, or sugar alone, placing on top of sugar a piece of butter size of hazelnut, and set in warm but not quick oven. When about half done fill the" hole again with the cream and sugar, dust with cinnamon and finish cooking. Serve warm. Or, halve the apples, hollow out the cores and place the halves upon the rounds of bread, fill the core cavity of each with good thick cream and strew sugar thickly over bread and fruit. Place in slow oven and renew the cream and sugar as they dissolve. When done arrange neatly in a dish, pour over any juice left in pan and serve warm ; or place cored side of apples next bread, brush with a little melted butter, dust with sugar, a little nutmeg or cinnamon, and bake as above. Apple Trifle. — Scald and pulp through a sieve as many apples as will cover the dish to be used to the depth of two or three inches, add grated rind of half a lemon and sugar to taste, and place in dish. Mix a half pint each milk and cieam and yolk of an egg, and sweeten to taste. Set over fire and scald, stirring constantly. FRUIT. 321 but do not boil. Let stand till cold, put it over apples and finisb with whipped cream. Apples and Orapes. — Strain the juice from ripe grapes, adding pound sugar to each quart, and boil until reduced one-half. Put into this some golden pippins, pared, cored and quartered ; simmer very slowly until apples are done, and serve either warm or cold in glass dish, or seal for future use in cans. Apples and Quinces. — Take a quantity of golden pippins, cut into quarters, but do not pare, put into saucepan of boiling water and simmer until a jelly. To each pound jelly add a pound sugar ; then cut two or three quinces into quarters, and cook them slowly in the syrup until tender. Serve in glass dishes for dessert. Apricot Compote. — Make a syrup by boiling together one pound sugar and one and a half pints water fifteen minutes, care- fully removing all scum ; put in twelve apricots, simmering until tender, taking care that they do not break ; take out carefully, arrange on glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour, it oveijthe apricots, and when cold serve. For Peach Compote take fifteen peaches, peel and stone them, cook ten minutes and take out as above, boiling the syrup two or three minutes to reduce it before pouring over. A few kernels give a nice flavor. To prepare, crack the stones, take out kernels and blanch as almonds. A Damson Compote is made same as apricot, taking one quart fruit. If a White Compote is wished of peaches or apricots, cut the fruit in two, take out stones, throw them irito boiling water (a very little lemon added) for two minutes, then plunge in cold or ice water, taking out immediately. This makes them white. Peel and finish as above. For a Med Compote add four tablespoons red currant juice, or a tablespoon jelly, beaten smooth and thinned with a cup of water. Bananas. — There are two varieties, the yellow and red ; the former has a richer, finer flavor, and ranks higher in market than the red, although the latter is very delicious, being more solid and nutritious, and by some prized more highly. The choicest bananas are the Aspinwall Lady Fingers, grown on the Isthmus of Panama. They are of a pale lemon color, medium size, not round, but having a sharp ridge running the whole length of the 'fruit, of fine, firm flesh, and rare flavor. The ripening season begins in January, is at its height in March,' and the supply diminishes towards midsummer, though in some localities the frmt ripens con- stantly, and may thus be had the year round. They are often served whole on a margin of green leaves, the colors contrasting very prettily, or mixed with oranges, the red ones being especially used thus ; but it is considered by some much better taste to peel 21 322 FRUIT. them, and, if very large, cut in two lengthwise, or crosswise if long and not very large round. Serve neatly placed on a napkin in fruit dish. Baked Bananas. — Peel a dozen bananas and split in halves lengthwise. Lay these strips closely in baking-pan, strew sugar and bits of fresh butter over, and grate in a little nutmeg. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. They should come out glazed, and if not syrup enough in the pan, a little should be mixed in a cup to baste them with. Serve as a last course with cake and milk. Fried Bananas. — Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, sprinkle with sugar, and serve. Thus prepared tjiey make a nice dessert. The bananas must be quite ripe. Bananas and Cream. — Slice the bananas crosswise — not too thin — scatter powdered sugar over, and before it' dissolves squeeze the juice of several oranges over them, or oranges may be cut up and mixed with them, or the bananas may be served with cream and sugar alone. Very nice for tea. They make an agreeable dessert with whipped cream sweetened and. flavored with vanilla, poured over them. A tablespoon of gelatine dissolved and stirred into the cream, gives a little body to it. Serve with sponge cake. Blackherry Trifle. — Stew one quart blackberries with one quart sugar and a half cup water. They should cook only fifteen minutes. When cold, serve with powdered cracker and sugar and cream. The cracker and berries should be in separate dishes. Cherries. — This fruit may be very elegantly served for dessert by picking in clusters on the twigs with a few leaves on each. An hour before dinner place them in the refrigerator, and when taken out they will be found not only refreshingly cool, but covered with moisture like dew. Or treat the clusters simply in same way. If served plain send to table heaped on saucers or glasses of pounded ice, one for each guest, and pass sugar with them. Or arrange in pyramid on a glass dish. Both red and j'ellow varieties should be obtained for this if possible. Cherry Compote. — Secure red cherries because of their piquant flavor, and be sure to have only perfect fruit. Do not stem them, but shorten the stems with the scissors. Put the fruit in a preserv- ing kettle with white granulated sugar in the proportion of a quarter pound sugar to every pound fruit, and add juice of one lemon to same quantities ; put over slow fire and boil three minutes, removing all scum and shaking occasionally ; take out fruit with a spoon, put in a bowl and carefully drain off all syrup, which should be reduced by further boiling. To thicken the syrup FRUIT. 323 a little isinglass or gelatine may be used, but it is better without, as the thin jelly of pure syrup is beautifully transparent. Pour this syrup or jelly into a dish to cool, and when ready to serve the com- pote pile the cherries in a pyramid and turn the syrup over them. Or, prepare cherries the same, take four tablespoons sugar and a pint water to one quart cherries, put in a saucepan, let boil, and skim ; add a half cup raspberry juice, put in the cherries and cook until tender ; pile them on a glass dish, reduce the syrup to a thin jelly, and when cool pour over them. Cherry Sauce. — To every pound well ripened, stoned cherries add a half pound sugar, melted and poured over boiling hot. Put on ice till cold and serve. Currants. — Select fine large red and white currants and arrange in alternate rows in pyramidal form on glass dish, placing the red on bottom, with a border of green leaves outside, as shown in cut. Sprinkle liberally throughout with sugar, set in refrigerator until ready to serve, when dust fine granulated sugar thickly over, which will cling to the currants, that will have become damp in the Currant Pyramid, icc Sox, and glvc a pretty frost-like effect. Raspberries may be served in same way, either red and white, red and black, or alternate layers of each. Currants are also nice served in large fine clusters heaped on fruit dish, always cooling on ice before sending to table ; or intersperse with layers of raspberries or other seasonable fruits. Gooseberry Coirvpote. — Stew one quart berries, which should not be very ripe, and pour boiling water over them ; take out and plunge them into cold water, with which a tablespoon of vinegar has been mixed, which will help preserve the color of the fruit. Boil together half pint sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, skimming well ; drain the gooseberries and put them in, sicumer gently until nicely pulped and tender, without being broken ; then take "out on glass dish, boil the syrup two or three minutes, pour over the gooseberries, and serve cold. Compote of Oreen Cages is made the same, carefully stemming and stoning the fruit, which will cook in one-third the time required for gooseberries. Gooseherry Fool. — Stem the gooseberries and cut off tops ; put in ajar with two tablespoons water and a little sugar, set the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let boil until the fruit is soft enough to mash ; or simply stew the fruit, pulp through a colander or sieve, and to every pint add a pint milk, or equal quantities milk and cream. Sweeten well or it will not be eatable, and in mixing add the milk very gradually ; serve in a glass dish or in small glasses. This old- fashioned dish is very delicious when well made, and if properly 324 FRUIT. sweetened a very nice relish for children. A boiled custard may be stirred in instead of the cream, and a less quantity of cream may be used — a gill to a quart of pulp — stijring in carefully just before serving. Gooseherry TriHe. — Put a quart gooseberries into a jar, sweeten to taste, and boil until reduced to pulp. Put this in the bottom of a high glass dish, pour over it a pint of boiled custard, and when cold cover with whipped cream. The cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then be much firmer and more solid. Gar- nish in any manner liked, with bits of jelly, or sliced almonds, etc. (?rape«.— The finest native ones are the Con- ^^^^^^ ^^,„^ cords, Delawares and Catawbas, the former oi which is generally considered most desirable, and ripens about August 1st. The Delawares are marketed about the same time, and the Catawbas a little later. Later varieties come into market the last of September, and may be had during October. California grapes are shipped during August, Septexsber and October, the finest varieties of which are the Tokays, White Muscats, Rose Peru and Black Morocco. These are very showy, but not of so fine a flavor as the fruit from the middle states. ^A'ild grapes are abun- dant from September to November, but are not suited to table use when fresh. Foreign grapes may be had at the fruit stores through- out the winter. The Malaga leads all foreign grapes, and comes packed in cork-dust, which is a non-conductor of heat and absorbent of moisture, and so is always in good condition. If left in the cork-dust this fruit will keep three months in prime order. When used rinse well in ice-water, and place on "a glass dish or dishes sur- rounded by fine ice ; if plentiful do not divide clusters, but serve a bunch for each guest. Jellied Orapes. — A very delicate dish is made of one-third cup rice, two cups stemmed grapes, half cup water, and two tablespoons sugar. Sprinkle rice and sugar among the grapes, while placing in a deep dish ; pour on the water, cover closely and simmer two hours slowly in the oven. Serve cold at dessert. Florida Grape-Fruit. — This is a new, clear-skinned, lemon- colored fruit, about three times as large as an orange, and bearing a general resemblance to that fruit. Its flavor is sub-acid, but its juicy pulp is enclosed in a tough white membrane of intensely bitter taste ; when this membrane is removed the fruit is delicious. To prepare it for the table, cut the skin in sections and peel it off'; sep- arate the sections as you would those of an orange, and holding FRUIT. 325 each one by the ends, break it open from the center, disclosing the pulp ; tear this out of the bitter white membrane which covers the sections, carefully removing every part of it ; keep the pulp as un- broken as possible, and put it into a deep dish with a plentiful sprinkling of fine sugar. Let it stand three or four hours, or over- night, and then use the fruit. It is refreshing and wholesome. Oranges. — The finest California oranges are known as the Cali- fornia Riverside varieties, including the Navals, smooth, sweet, lus- cious fruit, without seeds, the Mediterranean Sweets, aiid the Seed- lings. The Paper-rind is also a California Orange, small, but sweet, and very desirable for table use. Of the Florida fruit the Indian River oranges rank first, the choicest of which is the Florida Bright. The Florida oranges appear in market in December, and may be had in their perfection until about February 1st, after which date they be- come too ripe and spongy to be desirable. The California fruit be- gins ripening in December and may be had until late in June in excellent condition. The summer market is thus principally sup- plied by foreign importations, of which the Messinas and Rodas are the best varieties, though neither are so fine as the fruits above mentioned, and are liable to be dry and pulpy. The Seville orange is a bitter, acid fruit, used to some extent in cooking, but unfit for trade use. When buying oranges select from unwrapped fruit, if possible, those that are solid and heavy, with a smooth, thin skin, of a deep yellow red color. To remove any stale flavor absorbed from contact with decayed fruit, or from the odor of the box, wash lightly with a sponge in very cold water, dry with a soft towel with- out rubbing, wrap again in clean, soft paper, and put away until wanted for use in a closely-covered tin box or stone crock or a drawer, in a cool, dry closet. Lemons should be cared for in same manner. To serve oranges whole for breakfast or dessert cut the peel in six or eight equal pieces, making the incisions from the stem downward ; peel'each piece down about half way, and bend it sharply to the right, leaving the peeled orange apparently in a cup, from which it is removed without much difficulty. For an elegant center piece pile the oranges so prepared in a pyramid on a high fruit dish with bananas and white grapes, if obtainable. They are also very nice peeled and sliced with seeds and pith removed, and sprinkled with sugar two or three hours before serving for either dessert or tea. Some strew grated cocoa-nut over the top. Orange Compote. — Peel six oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin enclosing them. Make a syrup of half pound sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, skimming well, adding the rind of the orange ^___^^^^ _ cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup Orange Compote. ' has bccn Well skimmcd and is quite clear, put in the pieces ofl orange and simmer five minutes. Take out 326 FRUIT. carefully with a spoon without breaking them and arrange on a glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick ; let cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and serve cold. For a very delicious compote, peel and remove the pulp of eight large oranges, .divide as above, squeeze the juice from four more over three- quarters pound sifted sugar and the rind of one orange cut in strips, removing all the pulp. Put the pieces of orange in the syrup, boil about six minutes, drain, boil the syrup until it thickens, dish fruit and pour the syrup over. Or, peel and cut the oranges into slices crosswise, and remove seeds. Make a thick syrup as directed in apple compote, and, when cold, pour it over the sliced oranges, which are not cooked. Orange Float. — One quart water, juice and pulp of two lemons, coflfee-cup sugar ; when boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the beaten whites of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few drops vanilla. Orange Fool. — Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three well- beaten eggs, a pint cream, and a little nutmeg and cinnamon and sweeten to taste. Set over a slow fire and stir till thick as cream, but do not let boil ; then pour into a dish and set by till cold. An excellent dessert dish. Orange Snow. — Mix the juice of four oranges and grated peel of one with a large cup powdered sugar and a package gelatine, soaked in cup cold water ; let stand an hour, add a pint boiling water, stirring until clear, and strain through a coarse cloth, wring- ing hard. When cold whip in stifiiy frothed lyhites four eggs, place in a mold, which was first rinsed with water, and let stand six or eight hours. Some add the juice and grated peel of a lemon. Peaches. — The first crop marketed is from Mississippi, picked about May 1st. Tennessee peaches may be had in June, and Cali- fornia fruit appears about July 1st. The finest peaches, however, are grown in Michigan and Maryland, and are marketed during August, the supply lasting until into November. The California fruit is the handsomest, but not of so rich a flavor as the fine Yellow Crawfords from Michigan, the finest peaches obtainable, though some prefer the white-meated varieties, of which the Old- mixon Freestone and early York are the best. If large and perfect do not slice, but serve them whole ; wipe or brush off the feathery coating, arrange them neatly on the fruit-dish and decorate with fresh green leaves and flowers. Sliced peaches turn a rusty brown color if allowed to stand after cutting them, and should be served as soon as prepared ; if necessary for them to stand, cover with whipped cream properly sweetened. A little lemon FRUIT. 327 juice brings out the flavor of all preparations of peaches, and may he squeezed over sliced peaches before serving. Peaches for stew- ing, baking, etc., may be peeled or wiped with a cloth, or brushed. The blanched kernels cooked with them give a much finer flavor. Baked Peaches. — Wash the peaches (they need not be fuUy ripe), put them in a deep dish, sprinkle well with sugar, cover, and bake until perfectly tender. Serve with the syrup in pan poured over. Or, take equal parts rich sliced peaches, green corn pulp, and water. Sweeten to taste, place in baking dish, and bake twenty minutes. Frozen Peaches. — Pare and divide large, fresh, ripe and juicy peaches, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and half freeze, which will take about an hour ; remove just before serving, and sprinkle with a little more sugar. Canned peaches and all kinds of berries may be prepared in same way. Or, boil heaping pint sugar, and quart water together twelve minutes ; then add one quart of either canned or fresh peaches, and cook twenty minutes longer. Rub through a sieve, and when cool freeze. Take out beater and stir in pint cream, whipped. Cover and let stand an hour or so. Frozen Apri- cots are prepared same way. Frozen Peaches and Creq,m. — Peel and quarter fresh peaches, add sugar and cream, making very sweet. First place some quar- ters in bottom of mold, then fill and surround with ice and salt, freeze the mass solid without stirring. Turn out and serve. Jellied Peaches. — Cut a dozen peaches in halves, peel and take out stones, crack half the seeds, and blanch kernels ; make a clear boiling syrup of one pound white sugar, and into it put the peaches and kernels, boil very gently ten minutes, take out half the peaches, boil the rest ten minutes longer, and take out all the peaches and kernels; mix with syrup left in kettle the strained juice of three lemons, and an ounce isinglass dissolved in a little water and strained ; boil up once, fill a mold half full, let stand until "set," add part of the peaches and a little more jelly, and when this is "set," add the rest of the peaches, and fill up the mold with jelly. An elegant ornament. Set the jelly in pan of hot water to keep from hardening until all is used. Peach Float. — Take the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; stew six peaches until soft enough to mash, sweeten to taste and beat in the whites of eggs. Serve cold heaped in a dish. Apple, Pear and Quince Floats made same. Peach Meringue. — Put a quart milk on to boil, omitting a half cup with which to moisten two tablespoons corn-starch ; when the milk boils add the moistened corn-starch, stir till thick, then remove 328 FRUIT. from fire, add one tablespoon butter, and allow the mixture to cool ; then beat in yolks of three eggs till the whole seems light and creamy; add a half cup powdered sugar. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking-dish with two or three layers rich juicy peaches, pared, halved and stoned, sprinkle over three tablespoons powdered sugar ; pour the custard carefully over them and bake twenty min- utes, then spread with the light-beaten whites, well sweetened, and return to oven till a light brown. To be eaten warm with a rich sauce, or cold with sweetened cream.. Peach Tapioca. — Soak half-pint tapioca in cold water two or three hours, set on stove until it boils, and sweeten to taste. Peel and slice ripe peaches to nearly fill a baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar, pour the tapioca over them, and bake slowly one hour. Serve with cream and sugar. Peaches and Cream. — The harder kinds of peaches should be chopped to the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar two or three hours before serving. Allow about four ounces sugar to a quart. Soft peaches after peeling are best eighthed or sliced. A nice way to serve is in large glass bowls ornamented with quarters of red or yellow peaches neatlj' placed, and a pitcher of cream with each bowl separately. If served individually in saucers, pour cream over only as they are dished up. Peaches in Marmalade- — Pare and halve four fine, ripe peaches and let them just simmer from five to eight minutes in a syrup made with third of a pint water and three ounces white sugar, boiled together fifteen minutes ; lift out carefully into a deep dish, pour about half the sj'^rup over them, and into the remaining half throw a couple of pounds more quite ripe peaches and boil to a perfectly smooth dry pulp or marmalade, with as much powdered sugar as thei fruit may require, adding a little lemon juice. Lift the other peaches from the syrup, and reduce it by very quick boiling, more than half Spread a deep layer of the marmalade in a dish, arrange the peaches symmetrically around it, and fill all the spaces between with the marmalade ; place half of a blanched peach kernel in each, pour the reduced syrup equally over the surface, and form a border around the dish with Italian macaroons, or, candied citron, sliced very thin, and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter. The better to preserve their form, the peaches are sometimes merely wiped, and then boiled tolerably tender in the syrup before they are pared or split. Half a pint water, and from five to six ounces of sugar must then be allowed for them. If any of those used for the marmalade should not be quite ripe, it will be better to pass it through a sieve, when partially done, to prevent its being lumpy. Pears. — The California Bartletts are the finest to be had in the world, and are in market from July till October. The New York FRUIT. 329 Bartletts rank next, and have fully as good a flavor, but are not so large. The New York Duchess is also a choice pear — very fine for canning — and the Seckle, raised in both New York and California, is best for pickling. The Pound pear is the largest, but good only for canning. To serve whole, wash, if necessary, wipe dry, and ar- range in glass dish with green leaves ; the addition of oranges has a pleasing effect. Baked Pears. — Bake washed, unpeeled pears in pan with only a teaspoon or two of water ; leave stems on, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with their own syrup. Or, for a more elaborate dish, pare and cut twelve pears into halves, and, should they be very large, into quarters; leave the stems on, and carefully remove the cores. Place them in baking-dish or bean-pot with cover ; add one lemon rind cut in strips, and the juice of half a lemon, six cloves, ten pounded allspice, and sufficient water to just cover the whole, with sugar in proportion of a half pound to each pint water. Cover closely, put into very cool oven, and bake from five to six hours. Be very careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the color of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added ; but this will not be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked. Take out in glass dish, being careful to preserve shape, and pour over them the juice in which they were baked. Serve cold, placing on ice a half hour or so before wanted. If a larger quantity is to be baked, pack carefully in layers with season- ing between. Stewed Pears may be prepared in same manner with same ingredients ; cook slowly in porcelain-kettle on top of stove instead of baking. Serve as above. Or, peel the pears, leave the stems on, and place thenti whole in a stew-pan with a little water, sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently and add one glass cider, if liked, or omit both spices and cider. Some like a vanilla bean stewed with them. Serve cold. Jellied Pears. — Peel and cut four large or six small pears into quarters, put them into a jar with three-fourths pint water, cloves, cinnamon and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, cover down the top of the jar, and bake in a gentle oven until perfectly tendei:, but do not allow them to break. When done lay in a plain mold, which should be well wetted ; simmer three-fourths pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with a strip of lemon peel, strain- ed juice of half a lemon, and a half ounce gelatine. Let these in- gredients simmer well five minutes, then strain the li pint pear-water ; add juice two lemons, grated rind of one, and put m the pears ; cook a few minutes then remove to the dish in which they are to be molded. Soak an ounce gelatine an hour or two in enough water to cover, and stir it into the hot syrup ; let boil up once and turn it over fruit through a strainer. The mold should he dipped in cold water before putting in fruit. When cold turn jelly into a dish and serve with whipped cream around the base, or serve in saucers with sweet cream. Pear Compote. — Make as apple compote, or cook six or eight canned pears in their syrup until it becomes like honey ; then re- move from the fire, halve and lay in a dish. Beat whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, sweeten, and spread over the pears. Brown with salamapder or in oven, if desired. Or, for a Compote with Eggs, peel good, sound pears, cut into quarters, and take out seeds, flour them lightly and fry in butter. Add enough water and sugar to make a syrup and stew the pears until tender. Take up the pears, thicken the syrup with well-beaten yolks -of eggs; pour over the pears and serve. Alligator Pear Salad. — The alligator pear is a tropical fruit but little known, that tastes something like the American chestnut, and is finding its way to some tables. Select green-colored fruit, as the black over-ripe fruit is not good. Cut the pear in two, remove the large seeds, pare away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into Btrip's, and season with a saltspoon salt, two tablespoons olive oil, and a teaspoon tarragon vinegar. Baked Pie-Plant. — Wash, peel and cut into inch pieces, and place in covered baking-dish, sprinklingl'stigar on each layer, using about a teacup to a quart. The nicest thiag to cook it in is a covered bean-pot, allowing one hour from time it is put in oven. This makes a delicious sauce, far superior to stewing it. If baked with- out a cover it will be done in half an hour, but is nicer to cover and confine the aroma Stewed Pie-plant. — Make a rich syrup by adding sugar to water in which long strips of orange peel have been boiled until tender, put a single layer of pie-plant three inches long, and stew gently until clear. '\^hen done remove and cook another layer. This makes a handsome dessert dish, ornamented with pUflf-paste cut in fanciful shapes. Use one orange to two and a half pounds pie-plant. Some prefer to stew pie-plant in clear water, turning off all the water possible when done ana letting it get almost cold be- fore sweetening. Less sugar is required, and it is also thought to be much nicer. To remove the strong acid taste, and also effect a saving in sugar, many turn boiling hot water over it before cooking and let stand until cold, then turning it off; some let stand in the FRUIT. 331 / ■ hot water only five minutes or so. Fried Pie-plant is also nice. Fry in butter like apples, and sweeten well. Pine-apple. — The Strawberry is the best variety, though the Sugarloaf is good, of smoother exterior, fine-grained and tender, but not so juicy and high-flavored as the former. This fruit is so per- ishable that to keep even a few days it must be cooked. To prepare, peel and cut the fruit into dice. Throw away the core or heart, as it is bitter. Sprinkle thickly with sugar and place on ice some time before serving; many let it stand overnight, but as pine- apples darken by exposure to air, if. wanted to look nicely, serve at once. Just before wanted pile high in center of fruit-dish, with border of sponge cake slices, lady fingers or jelly sandwiches (see Jellies and Jamsj, and the tuft of the pine-apple topping the whole. Very nice if sliced on a slaw-cutter, and some after paring pick the fruit from the core with a knife. A J dish of alternate layers of shredded pine-apple and cocoa- _^^inut, sprinkled- with sugar and served with a sauce of or- TS^iT ange juice, is a nice dessert. Or, peel and cut a pine-apple into uniform slices, put in a glass dish and cover with a cup pow- dered sugar. Let stand to form a syrup, and just before serving add a half cup orange juice. To Keep. — Pare and cut out the eyes of a ripe pine-apple, strip all the pulp from the core with a silver fork ; to a pint of this add a pound of granulated sugar ; stir occasion- ally until sugar is dissolved, put in glass fruit-cans, and turn down the covers as closely as possible. This will keep a long time. PluTTis. — The California and Oregon varieties may be had through August and September, as also the domestic sweet plums. The Blue Damsons, a sour variety, come later, and are highly prized, many considering them superior to the sweet plums. The Green Gages and* Imperial Gages are excellent ^'°"'- for canning and preserving. To serve, they may be simply heaped carelessly on a border of green. Baked Quinces. — Core the quinces and rub them well, put iii baking-pan, and fill Core cavity with powdered sugar. Bake till tender and servie with sugar and cream. Or, pare, quarter, extract the seeds and stew in clear cold water until a straw will pierce them ; put into a baking-dish with a half cup sugar to every eight quinces, pour over the liquor in which they were boiled, cover closely and , steam in oven one hour. Pour the syrup over them and serve. For a Quince Compote, cook as above, then take out the fruit, \aj in covered bowl to Keep warm, return syrup to saucepan and boil twenty minutes j pour over fruit and set away covered to cool. Serve cold. 332 FRUIT. Steamed Quinces. — Pare, quarter and core very ripe quinces and steam in a deep dish until perfectly tender : then slice them in the dish in which they are to be served, sprinkle with sugar, and pour the juice over them. Serve cold. Baisine. — Squeeze the juice from very ripe but quite sound grapes, and boil till reduced one-half. Peel and core some pears, cut into quarters, and put in the grape syrup. Let boil till reduced a third. Raisine may be made from unripe grapes, but in this case sugar must be added, allowing a quarter pound to every pint grape juice. Baspherry Float. — Crush a pint very ripe red raspberries with a gill sugar ; beat whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and add grad- ually a gill powdered sugar ; press the raspberries through a fine strainer to avoid seeds, and bjr degrees beat in the juice with the egg and sugar until so stiff that it stands in peaks. All berries may be served same way. Strawberries. — If to be plainly served select large, fine fruit with the stems on, clip the stems within an inch of the berry, and arrange in basket as in cut, bordering with leaves, and rounding the center by heaping up more leaves. Arrange the strawberries carefully, standing them on their stems, and pass with a tiny cup (wine-glasses, egg-glasses or even butter-plates will do) of powdered sugar to each guest. The berries are taken by the stem, dipped into the sugar, and eaten. Never wash berries unless absolutely neces- sary. But if they must be washed, take a dish of cold, soft water, put in a few berries, and with the hand .press them down into the water once or twice, until they look clean, then hull them. Repeat the process till all are hulled, changing the water often. Never drain in a colander. Some wash them by putting them under the pump in an open basket, and give them one good showering that passes through the berries and carries off all grit and dirt. If not to be eaten for an hour or more, hang the basket in the refrigerator, and do not hull them until the last moment, though many prefer to stem them and sprinkle thickly with sugar two or three hours before serving, while others put no sugar over them until dished at table. Frozen Strawberries. — Boil quart water and pint sugar together half an hour ; then add two quarts strawberries, and cook fifteen minutes longer. Let cool and freeze. Take out beater and add one pint cream, whipped, using a wooden paddle and beating it in thor- oughly. Preserved frivit can be used instead of the fresh, when use for each quart preserves one quart water. Frozen Raspberries are prepared as above, except that before freezing add the juice of three lemons. All kinds of canned and preserved fruits can be thus pre- pared and frozen. For the freezing process see Ices and Ice Creams. FRUIT. 333 Mock Strawberries. — Cut ripe peaches and choice well-flavored apples, in proportion of three peaches to one apple, into quarters about the size of a strawberry, place in alternate layers, sprinkle the top thickly with sugar, and. add pounded ice; let stand about two hours, mix peaches and apples thoroughly, let stand an hour longer and serve. Oranged Strawberries. — Place a layer of strawberries in a deep dish ; cover thickly with pulverized sugar, then a layer of. berries, and so on, until all are used. Pour orange juice over them in the proportion of three oranges to a quart of berries. Let stand an hour, and just before serving sprinkle with pounded ice. Strawberries with Whipped Cream. — Prepare in layers as above, cover with one pint of cream, whites of three eggs and a cup pow- dered sugar, whipped together and flavored with strawberry juice. Strawberry Meringue.— M-is. a half cup sugar with two cups strawberries by shaking about in a bowl, and spread them on a sheet of sponge cake baked in a jelly-pan, and pressed while warm into a shallow dish to give it a hollow shape. Whip whites of three eggs flrm, mix in two tablespoons sugar, spread the meringue over the berries and brown with the salamander or hot shovel. Serve cold. Frosted Fruits. — Most all fruits can be thus treated and make a delicious dessert. Whip whites of two eggs and stir in a half pound fine granulated sugar, beating fifteen minutes. Prepare Frosted Oranges by skinning oranges, removing as much of the white pith as possi- ble, without breaking them, passing a thread through the center of each, dip them into the frosting until thoroughly coated, and then tie them to a stick ; place the stick across the oven and let the balls remain until thoroughly dry, when they will have the appear- ance of balls of ice. Care must be taken not to have the oven so hot as to brown them. Send to table heaped on dish with green leaves around. A very pretty dessert or supper dish. Or the . oranges may be peeled and divided into sections, removing as much pith as possible, whip together on a plate with a knife or fork white of one egg and four tablespoons water, add a dessert-spoon powder- ed sugar, mix all thoroughly and strain through a sieve into an- other plate ; dip the fruit into these, roll carefully in sifted powdered sugar and place on a sieve to dry. Or some use the stiflly-whipped whites of two eggs with one tablespoon water, and proceed the same. Others simply beat the whites until they break, and do not use water. Frosted Peaches are done same as oranges, first rubbing off the fuzz with a clean cloth, and when partially dry roll a second time in tbe sugar. Frosted Currants may be thus prepared in bunches, also Frosted Orajpes, or these may be taken on a needle and done singly. Frosted Cherries are also done singly on their stems, or in bunches. For Frosted Bananas, procure those of 334 FRUIT. medium size, peel and frost whoie by brushing them over with the whipped egg mixture, using the pastry brush for this, and dipping powdered sugar over them ; or cut into nice slices, wipe dry, and frost as other fruits. For Frosted Pears choose small Bartlett or Sugar pears. Frosted Berries are nice, and any kind of berries may be thus served, if large, perfect and not over-ripe. Frosted Plums are nice also. Very pretty effects are produced by serving the different kinds of frosted fruits in same dish, pUing the sections of oranges evenly in a cone in center and arranging the grapes, currants, etc., around the base, interspersed with green leaves, or with stems put into the cone al; intervals, or in any way fancied. A pretty dish of oranges alone is made by first frosting one-third the sections, as above, then color one-third of the sugar with a few drops liquid cochineal, letting it dry, and rolling if it lumps ; roll one-third of the oranges in this, and glaze the remaining third according to directions for Glazing Fruits. Put together in dish, in rows of each color, or in any pretty order, on a base of green leaves. Frozen Fruits. — These are frozen the same as water ices, re- quiring more salt in freezing than ice cream. If let stand half an Hour in the freezer on ice they will freeze easier. If in preparing the mixture the sugar does not dissolve entirely, wliich is very nec- essary, add more water, or, better still, juice of the same fruit, to just dissolve it, and then when ready, freeze. For Frozen Oranges take two pounds Florida oranges, first rub one-third of the oranges with a handful or two of granulated sugar taken from the two pounds sugar to be used in recipe, then peel, quarter and halve each quarter, take out seeds, and mix with all the pugar as above, juice of two lemons and one quart water. When sugar is dissolved put in freezer and turn slowly, so as to break the orange pulp as little as possible. For Frozen Strawberries mix two pounds berries and juice of two lemons, or for a richer flavor use oranges, let stand half an hour, add two pounds sugar, and after another half hour one quart water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved, freeze, and color with a few drops of carmine. For Frozen Pine-apples take the Birdseye or Rose, prepare as for serving, cutting into dice ; mix at once in same proportions as strawberries, omitting the carmine. Frozen Bananas are prepared in same way. For Frozen Rasp- berries mix two pounds each berries and sugar, stir lightly once or twice till sugar is dissolved, add one quart water and freeze, stirring only enough to congeal it. If purple berries are used, put two table- spoons each currant juice and sugar to each pound fruit. Some prefer juice of lemons to that of currants. For Frozen Cherries bruise one dozen kernels in a mortar to a paste, and tie loosely in muslin. Mix two and quarter pounds cherries, having first stoned them, and two pounds sugar, put in kernels, let stand half an FHTJIT. 335 hour, add water, stir gently to dissolve sugar, take out kernels and freeze. The very siaiall quantity of kernels used gives a pleasant nutty flavor^ and a hardly perceptible bitter taste, which is acceptable to most palates ; but if disliked by any it may be omitted. For Frozen Currants mash one and one-half pounds currants and one-half pound raspberries lightly, add two pounds sugar, and after half an hour one quart water, and when dissolved, freeze. If the fruit is very acid add more sugar. Frozen Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines and Plums are prepared the same, except the three latter are not pared. Select two pounds white-fleshed peaches and rub off fuzz, pare, cut in half and drop at once into ice-cold water ; when all are pared, drain quickly, and mix with two pounds sugar, adding one dozen kernels which have been pounded to a paste, and tied in a muslin bag. Add one quart water, and when sugar is dissolved, take out bag, chop fruit into dice, mix and freeze. Color faintly with carmine. Use canned apricots if fresh cannot be obtained. For Frozen Apples pare and core two pounds apples and, drop into cold water. When all are prepared, drain, cut into dice, mix with two pounds sugar, add half ounce apple seeds, bruised and tied in a muslin rag, stir lightly, after half an hour add the water, mix well, remove bag and freeze. For Frozen Grapes stone and gently mash two and a quarter pounds fruit, mix with two pounds sugar, after an hour add one quart water and freeze. For a Macedoine of Fruits mix two or more fruits that harmonize in flavor, as orange and pine-apple, peach and apricot, apple and orange, plum and grape, raspberry, cherry and currant, strawberry and lemon. Mix, in any of above proportions and freeze. Glazed Fruits. — Boil a cup each granulated sugar and water together half an hour (less water may be used), or until it becomes brittle when dropped in cold w'ater. Pour this syrup in a bowl placed in hot water, and dip the fruit to be glazed in this and place to dry. For Glazed Oranges peel and separate into the natural divisions without breaking the skin. Take each piece on a skewer and dip into the hot syrup and then place the other end of the skewers in a bowl of salt, with the oranges hanging over the edge, that the glazing may dry perfectly, or lay them on a slightly but- tered plate. Plums, grapes, cherries, currants and other fruits may be glazed in same manner. Do not stir the syrup or it will grain, and it is well to add the juice of a lemon to prevent its turning to sugar. If it begins to grain add a little water and reheat. Or the syrup may be made of a pound sugar, a large half cup water, and a half teaspoon cream tartar. Iced Fruits are done by simply coat- ing with plain white iceing, made with whites of eggs and sugar, as for cake. 336 FRUIT. Macedoine of Fruits. — With jelly this is a handsome dish for des- Bert, and seems a very elaborate one, but is quite easily prepared. Any bright-colored jelly, flavored nicely, will do for the purpose, and these are speed- ily prepared by nieans of gelatine. First put the mold on ice, and proceed to fill alternately with jelly and different kinds of fruits ; pour in a little jelly and when set arrange fruits in a circle, or according to taste ; pour in more jelly, and when it hardens put in more fruit, and continue thus until full. ' Grapes, cherries, peaches, strawberries, Macedoine of Fruits ^^ ^^^ fiults, thc suiallcr ouBS ou their stems, the larger ones cut in pieces, show off handsomely, and if fresh fruit is scarce, preserved or candied fruit may be used. Keep the jelly in a pan of hot water to prevent its hardening until used. When firm turn it out and surmount the whole with mixed fruits. Fruit Balls. — Spread boiled rice over a cloth and lay on the rice cherries, berries or oranges, peeled, and as much pith as pos- sible removed, tie closely, boil long enough to cook the fruit, sprinkle with sugar and serve with syrup, or sugar and cream, or any sauce liked. Or, pare and core apples whole, put some sugar and a clove into each, put the rice around them, tie in a cloth and boil until tender. Serve same. Fruit Juices. — Mash the juicy fruits to a pulp, place on fire till scalding hot. Pour into a puree sieve and allow the juice to run through. Put into bottles or cans and seal and finish as in Canning Fruits by placing them in boiler of cold water and boil for twenty minutes. Remove from fire and allow to remain in boiler until cold; then set away for use. In the case of non-juicy fruits, such as apples, pears, peaches, etc., put fruit in saucepan, cover with water, and boil to a pulp, place on a hair sieve and allow to drain without any pressing. Bottle this juice as above. This makes the clear, transparent extracts for syrups, cordials and beverages. In cases where the flavorings are to be used for any purpose where transparency or clearness is not desirable, such as for ice creams, fruit-ices, or bon-bons, then use not only the clear fluid but also the pulp, and bottle as above. Fruit Salad. — For platter of salad sufficient for twelve or six- teen take half dozen each oranges and pears, one dozen each peaches and bananas, pound each white and red grapes and one lemon ; pare the large fruits, and first cut an orange in small pieces and place in center of platter ; on top of or around these pieces cut a peach or two (according to size), then a banana, then a pear — FRUIT. 337 using one's fancy in the shapes of the pieces, some round, some square, some oblong, etc. Wash a few of the grapes and place them (without stems) at different points over the layer, and dust over with granulated sugar, then squeeze upon it a little lemon juice. Now commence again with orange and proceed as before with all the fruits until platter is nicely filled and rounded with the different fruits. Finish with small clusters of red and white grapes (6n stems) alternately placed around the edge of the platter and small thin slices of the red core of watermelon may be added with the grapes. If the juice accumulates too much in platter carefully dip it into a small pitcher, and as the salad is served pour over some juice. This can be made of canned fruits (adding strawberries), but does not look as well. Fruit Toasts. — Halve and stone peaches and place each half inside uppermost, on thin square or round pieces of bread; place in bottom of well-buttered dish, with a piece of butter in each, sprinkle with sugar and bake a half hour in moderate oven ; when done, arrange carefully in a dish, pour the syrup from baking dish over, and serve hot. Apricots, large plums and pears are nice baked thus. Fruit in Jelly. — Put a half pint clear melted calf-foot jelly into a bowl ; lay in three peaches and a bunch of grapes, with the stalks upward ; put in three small vine leaves next, and fill up with the jelly; let stand overnight, then set to the brim in hot water; when the jelly loosens from the bowl put dish over it and turn out care- fully. Ambr'osia. — Take four each oranges and bananas, one pine- apple (canned may be used), quart strawberries and ten tablespoons grated cocoa-nut. Peel the fruit, stem, the berries, and place in glass dish a layer of berries, then sliced pine-apples, then oranges cut in small pieces, taking out seeds, then bananas sliced crosswise,- adding strawberries here and there, so that they will show through the ■dish ; now another layer of pine-apples, then bananas, then oranges, placing sugar between each layer and over the top, using one and a half pints powdered sugar. Cover with the grated cocoa-nut and over this place a layer of large selected strawberries. Let stand in a cold place for an hour or two before serving. Same can be made with half as many oranges and bananas, omitting cocoa-nut and plac- ing fruits in successive layers, not scattering the strawberries ; or take. six sweet oranges, one pine-apple, one large cocoa-nut, grated, and sprinkle pulverized sugar over each layer. Or, use six oranges, six lemons, and two cocoa-nuts', or only oranges and cocoa-nuts, pre- pared as above. Some pour over the orange and cocoa-nuts a half cup each orange and lemon juice, and it is delicious added to any ambrosia. 22 338 FRUIT. Melons. — These fruits are always served fresh, and should be thoroughly cooled by keeping on ice until just ready to send to the table, and are nicer if left on ice overnight. Garnish with flowers or green leaves, or arrange a border of the smaller fruits around it. The latter gives a very pretty effect. The Nutmeg Melon is the finest variety. To prepare for the table, wash them and wipe dry, set on. the blos- som end, and cut in several equal pieces from .Mnmeg jueion. the stem downward, leaving each alternate piece still attached ; the others may then be loosened, the upper end clipped off and the seeds removed, when the melon is ready to serve, as shown in cut. Or cut off the top of each melon, remove the seeds, fill with powdered ice, replace the tops and send to table as if whole. Some prefer to serve them cut in halves, with a lump of ice on each. This cools them perfectly and quickly. As a dressing some place a table- spoon honey in each half, but most people like sugar, or a sea- soning of salt and pepper, which is usually sent round with them. They are also sometimes served with a salad dressing, when rather insipid and tasteless, though more of a breakfast than a dinner dish. Melon is often sent on after the soup at dinner. For a nice Melon Salad pare rind from a musk or nutmeg melon and slice lengthwise ; cut these slices crosswise as sliced cucumbers, place in bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper and add three or four tablespoons oil or a little melted butter. Let stand half an hour on ice, then add a pinch sugar and a little vinegar, spoonful at a time, simply to moisten without leaving any liquid in bowl. Serve as first course at break- fast heaped in middle of platter, garnished with green. If a melon is found/ insipid or over ripe, scoop out the pulp by spoonfuls in- stead of serving in slices and pass a French dressing with it, which poured over the melon pulp makes a very appetizing daint^^ Watermelons must also be thoroughly chilled by standing on ice several hours and are served as fruit at dessert. The fruit may be cut as illustrated and sent to table on a border of green leaves, when it is served in slices with the rind attached ; or clip the ends of the watermelons, cut them across in halves, set upon the clipped ends on a platter, and serve the pulp only, removing it in symmetrical egg- shaped pieces with a spoon ; or if very large, cut across in thick slices, and serve in nice triangular shaped pieces on the rind. Some season with sugar and some with salt, and some not at all. Watermelons have been kept fresh until into the winter by gathering before quite ripe, wrapping in news- paper and packing in sawdust. watermelon. Chestnuts. — To boil chestnuts, shell, and pnt them into warm water, slightly salted, and cook fast fifteen minutes. Turri off the water through a colander ; stir a good-sized piece of butter into the \mm FRUIT. 339 hot chestnuts, tossing them over and over until glossy and dry. Or put half an ounce aniseed into water enough for fifty chestnuts, and boil, first clipping of the points off the nuts. Serve on a hot napkin in deep dish. For Stewed Chestnuts, first roast them and when done, shell and put in a pan with water, allowing quarter of a pint to a pound of sugar and two pounds chestnuts. Stew fifteen min- utes, adding slowly the juice of a lemon. Cocoa-nut — A nice dessert is made by grating a large cocoa-nut into a glass dish, serving with cream, preserves, jellies or jams. Co- coa-nut Puifs are also nice for dessert. To prepare, break a fine ripe cocoa-nut, lay pieces in cold water, drain and dry well, then grate and put in little heaps on a glass dish. Flatten the heaps in the center so as to make a hollow and fill with preserves. Whip a pint of rich cream to a froth, sweeten and flavor with lemon ; pile this on top of the preserves and serve. The little heaps should not be larger round than a dollar. To Dry Cocoa-nut, grate three or fou^r and put in pan with one cup sugar ; steam over a kettle of hot water until the sugar is melted ; set in the oven and stir frequently until dry. Salted Almonds. — Blanch shelled Jordan almonds, place in a bed of salt in dripping pan, put in a rather slow oven, watch care- fully and when browned and nicely flavored, take out. A quantity can be made at a time. Serve as a last course at a dinner or even- ing party. Walnuts and Hickory Nuts. — Crack and pick from shells; sprinkle salt lightly over and serve mixed in same dish. All nuts are much more wholesome when eaten with salt. Dried. Fruits. In providing a supply of fruit for winter use, every experienced and economical housekeeper prepares an abundance of dried fruits. Drying is much less expensive than canning or preserving, and fruit wanted for pies, puddings, etc., is better if preserved in this manner, while many prefer the flavor of dried peaches, when properly done, to that of the finest canned fruit. Time and care are both required in its preparation, however, to attain satisfactory results. Always place to dry in the open air when possible, but when much fruit is dried, it is necessary to have a house for the purpose. Small quan- 340 DRIED FRUITS. tities should be so arranged as to be placed near the kitchen fire when taken in at night or during stormy days. Those who have hot-bed sash, can easily arrange a drying apparatus which will dry rapidly and at the same time keep off insects. A hot-bed frame with a bottom to it, and raised above the ground, makes a capital drying box. The sash should be elevated at one end to allow the moisture to pass off, covering the opening with netting. Or the friit will dry nicely if spread in shallow boxes or box covers, covered with mos- quito netting to prevent flies reaching it. When impossible to dry out of doors, the fruit may be placed on plates and dried in the oven,, but care must be taken to prevent scorching. A recently patented convenience is a fruit evaporator for family use, which consists of a rectangular pan of thick tin about two and a half feet long by four- teen inches wide, with a double bottom. The space between the bottoms is filled with hot water by means of a little pipe that pro- jects to the top of pan from one corner ; the fruit is placed on the upper bottom and the separator is set on the stove or range to keep the water hot. The pan can be moved about on the range, or setoff for a few minutes if wished and the fruit dries rapidly with no dan- ger of burning. Methods of preparing and drying the diff'erent fruits are described hereafter. When thoroughly dried, put away in jars in dry places and cover closely, or tie up in paper sacks. The secret of keeping dried fruit is to exclude the light, and to keep in a dry and cool place. Paper sacks, or a barrel or box lined with paperi are secure against moths. Reheating fruit, which is necessary if it becomes damp, makes it dark in color and impairs its flavor, and should be avoided if possible by keeping in a thoroughly dry place. When ajar or sack of dried fruit is opened, always fill a fruit can or small sack, and keep for present use, to avoid opening often. It is said that dried fruit put away with a little sassafras bark (say a. large handful to a bushel) will keep for years unmolested by those troublesome little insects which so often destroy hundreds of bush- els in a single season. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be con- verted into dry preserves by first draining them from the syrup, and then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six DRIED FRUITS. 341 or eight hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept dry in draw- ers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavor. Fruits of every kind may be candied by first boiling them in syrup, then take out and dry in a pan on stove or before the fire ; boil the syrup to a candy, dip fruit into it once more, and set to dry. Put into covered boxes or patent jars it will keep a long time. To freshen figs, wash them thoroughly and dry on a towel and heat them in the oven ; take out and roll in powdered sugar. In selecting dried currants secure the Zante variety. They are not currants but a small seedless grape from the Zante Island, and like all candied and dried fruit, such as citron, lemon and orange peel, etc., should be moist, tended and without crystals of sugair on them. In raisins the Sultanas or Seedless, which come to us from Smyrna, packed in drums, and are of a light amber color, plump and moist, rank first for fine cakes and puddings, but the Valencia are cheaper and more commonly used ; for table, the loose Mus- catels and layer raisins are preferred ; of the latter, the Dehesia Layer is the finest, very large and fancy, the Cabinet Layer, in bunches, stands second, and the London Layer third. All raisins except the Sultanas should be large, plump, tender and fleshy, with a bluish cast and no crystals. The California raisins have a tough skin and large seed, and are not nearly so desirable as foreign importations, but are largely used on account of the very low price. Candied Almonds. — Blanch any quantity of almonds, then fry in butter till a light brown color ; wipe nicely with a napkin, and put into a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, and boil to a thread — that is, until on taking a drop of the sugar between the finger and thumb it will produce a thread ; care must be taken to boil it to the exact candying-point ; pour it boiling-hot upon the almonds, and stir them till quite cold. An excellent niethod of preparing almonds or any nuts for dessert. Or simply blanch them, roll while moist in powdered sugar, and place in oven to dry. Candied Apples. — Squeeze juice of two or three lemons into preserving kettle. Peel, core and slice small apples ; put into the lemon juice and shake over the fire a minute or two and set aside to 342 DEIED FRUITS. absorb as much juice as possible. When quite cold, put into a syrup of boiling sugar and let simmer until the syrup is turned to sugar again. Take out the fruit and dry. Or peel Golden Pippins, or other nice tart apples, and put them into a sauce-pan cold water; let them gradually come to a boil, when remove a little from the fire, and as soon as they begin to soften take up and drain. To one quart water in which they were boiled put a pound and a half white sugar ; boil and skim it ; put in the apples, let come to a boil, and take them from syrup ; repeat this operation three or four times and put them on a sieve to dry, flatten them gently with the hands, and arrange them in bon-bon boxes. Candied Cherries. — Make a syrup of two pounds loaf sugar and one cup water and boil until thick enough to "pull," as for can- dy. Remove to side of range, and stir until it shows signs of gran- ulating, and it is well to stir frequently while cooking, to secure this end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in carefully stoned cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply lie in the boiling syrup two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. Shake gently but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad dish, and dry in a sunny window. Enough for two quarts cherries. Candied Citron. — Pare the citron, remove seeds, let lay over- night in a weak syrup. Next morning drain through a colander ; and for each pound citron, take a pound white sugar ; boil the sugar until quite a thick syrup is formed, then drop the citron in and cook down thick ; when done, pour out on plates and leave near the stove until dry, then sprinkle with granulated sugar and keep in glass jars. Lemon and orange peel can be prepared in the same way, but with- out laying in syrup overnight. Or, simply boil the citron in water until it is clear and soft enough to be easily pierced with a fork ; take out, put in a nice syrup of sugar and water, and boil until the sugar has penetrated it. Take out and spread on dishes to dry slowly, sprinkling several times with powdered sugar, and turning until it is dried enough. Pack in jars or boxes with sugar between the layers. Candied Currants. — To candy currants it is only necessary to dip them into syrup prepared as for Candied Cherries. They are made very nice by sifting powdered sugar over when taken from the syrup. Candied Orapes and Berries prepared same way. Candied Lemon Peel. — Soak the peels in salt and water over- night ; in" the morning freshen in three waters and boil till tender ; make a syrup of a quart water to a pound sugar and simmer the peels in it half an hour ; pour into a bowl together and let stand until next day, then make^ a syrup to cover them of a pound sugar to a pint water for each pound pulp, boiling till it threads ; put the peel into DRIED FRUITS. 343 the syrup, boil half an hour, take out and drain on a sieve, andas the candy dries, transfer to a dish to dry in a warm place. Candied Orange Peel prepared same way. When the orange peel is sliced very thick it is called Orange Citron Candied Peaches. — Peel and slice ripe peaches, make a thin syrup and boil fruit until it looks clear ; lay on a sieve to drain, then roll in dry brown sugar and expose to the sun ; change to dry dishes, dip in sugar again and leave until entirely dried and crys- tallized Candied Tomatoes. — Scald and skin pear-shaped (or any small- sized) tomatoes, and to eight pounds add three pounds brown sugar ; cook without water until the sugar penetrates, and they have a clear a,ppearance, take out, spread on dishes, and dry in the sun, sprink- ling on a little syrup while drying ; pack in jars or boxes, in layers with powdered sugar between. Thus put up they will keep for any length of time, and are nearly equal to figs. Candied Peaches may be prepared in same way. Dried Apples. — Take only good, sound fruit, pare, quarter and core and slice lengthwise ; spread in the sun or fruit evaporator to dry, or run them on strings and hang near kitchen fire. A piece of coarse muslin or net stretched over a frame and hung from the ceil- ing, may also be used for drying. When found that winter apples are not keeping well it is an excellent plan to begin drying at once to prevent waste, and despite the prejudice against dried apples, the fruit so put up at home may be made with a little painstaking into sauce and pies that will be eaten with a relish in the spring when fruit is scarce and high. Dried Apple Sauce. — Look over dried apples carefully ana soak until tender in enough cold water to cover, allowing for swelling. The old-fashioned dried apple requires soaking overnight, or for several hours ; the delicate sliced dried apple, sold as "evaporated apple," requires only about fifteen minutes, in just water enough to cover. The former must be carefully washed before soaking, but the sliced apple is perfectly clean. Boil in the water it was soaked in, stead- ily and slowly, and stir often, keeping closely covered. Break up the dried rind of an orange for every quart of apple, and boil with it. When soft, like jam, take off and rub through sieve. Sweeten, to taste and serve cold. Some like to season highly with cinnamon. To prepare quickly, soak fifteen minutes in clean warm water ; drain, cover with cold-soft water, place on the stove, let boil slowly two to four hours, mash fine, sweeten and season with cinnamon very highly. For a nice sauce with raisins, put two pounds dried apples and one pound raisins in a crock with plenty of water and set on back of stove. Let boil slowly all day. When almost done add a lemon 344 DRIED FEUITS. peeled and sliced very thin and two pounds sugar. Never add sugar until about five minutes before removing from the stove, otherwise the fruit will be toughened and hardened. A nice way of serving is to raise a border of dried apples prepared as in first recipe above, in a large dish or ice cream saucer, as the case may be, fill the hol- low middle with boiled custard and spread a meringue of sweetened and whipped whites of eggs on top. Brown with hot salamander or shovel. Black Apple Sauce is made with dried apples and dried black raspberries stewed together. Soak both separately overnight in water to cover. Stew the apples in .water soaked in, until half done, then add raspberries, without the juice, and when both are nearly done sweeten to taste and simmer gently a few moments longer. Dried Bananas. — A method for drying bananas has been pat- ented in Jamaica, and they may now be purchased in the larger cities. The fruit retains its flavor in a remarkable degree. The banana is cut in half lengthwise and dried slowly, which prevents fermentation and decay. They are prepared for use as other dried fruits. Dried Blackherries. — Dry in the sun, or fruit evaporator, or in the oven, like apples, being careful when drying in oven not to scorch them in the least. Dried thus, blackberries make excellent pies and are better if not stewed for this purpose. If simply put in the crust with sufficient water and sugar and a very little flour they will be found to cook quickly and retain their fresh flavor in a remarkable degree. Some prefer, however, to dry them with sugar, allowing a pound sugar to eight or ten quarts berries ; put over the fire with a half pint water and bring slowly to boiling point ; then skim out berries and spread on plates to dry, pouring the juice over, a little on each plate Dried Rasvherries may be prenared after either method. Dried Cherries. — Cherries may be put into a slow oven and thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. Be careful that the oven is not too hot. They should then be taken out, tied in bunches and stowed away in a dry place. Nice cooked with sugar for winter dessert. Another method of di-jdng is to stone them and put into a preserving kettle with plenty of sugar, about five table- spoons to each quart ; simmer till the fruit shrivels, when it should be strained from the juice. Place the cherries in an oven cool enough to dry without baking them. The same syrup may be used to do another quantity of fruit, though some boil the syrup until very thick and pour it over the fruit as it dries, a little at a time. Pack in jars and paste paper over the top. An excellent method of drying both cherries and currants is to put in jars first a layer of fruit, then a layer of sugar, in the proportion of half a pound sugar to pound fruit and let stand overnight ; place them to boil, skim- DRIED FRUITS. 345 ming off all scum, let boil ten or fifteen minutes, skim out and spread on dishes to dry in the sun, or by the fire, turning frequently until dry ; then place on pans in oven, stirring with the hand often until the heat is too great to bear. They may then be packed in jars ■with sugar, or put away in paper sacks, or stone crocks with a cloth tied closely over the top, and are an excellent substitute for raisins in puddings or mince pies. To dry cherries without sugar, stone, and set them over the fire in the preserving pan ; let them simmer in their own liquor, and shake them in the pan Put them in common china dishes ; next day scald again and/ when cold put on sieves to dry in moderate oven. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do them. Put away in a box with a paper between each layer. Dried Currants. — Take one pint sugar to a pint stemmed ripe currants ; put them together in a porcelain kettle, a layer of cur- rants at the bottom ; when sugar is dissolved, let boil one or two minutes, skim from the syrup, and spread on plates to dry in a partly cooled oven. Boil the syrup until thickened, pour it over the cur- rants, and dry it with them. Packin jars and cover closely. Black- herries may be dried in the same manner. An economical way of making jelly is to boil the liquid after currants are taken out, skim- ming well, unt'il it becomes a jelly, and put away in jelly glasses. Dried Gooseberries. — To seven pounds goosederries add a pound and a half of powdered sugar, strewing it over them in preserving kettle. Let remain over a slow fire till they begin to break, and then remove. Repeat this process two or three days ; then take the gooseberries from the syrup and spread out on sieves in the sun or near the fire to dry. The syrup may be used for other preserves. When quite dry put away in tin boxes on layers of paper. They will keep in this way all winter, and may be used for pies, tarts, etc. Dried Greengages. — Procure fruit before quite ripe and leave stems on. Weigh, and allow a pound sugar and one-fourth pint water to each pound fruit, boil to a rich syrup, skim, put in the fruit and boil ten minutes, take from fire and drain the fruit ; next day boil the syrup and put in the fruit, and continue the process five or six days ; after draining the last time, place the greengages on a hair sieve and set in oven or other warm spot to dry ; keep in a box. with paper between each layer, in a dry place. Dried Peaches. — In preparing peaches for drying, if peeled at all do it by immersing for an instant in hot water as directed in Canning Fruits. It is said that in peaches, as in potatoes, the best of the fruit lies nearest the skin, and for this reason some never .peel peaches for any purpose but rub them thoroughly with a woolen cloth. Dried peaches are better when halved and the cavities sprinkled with sugar while drying. The fruit must be good, however, as poor 346 DRIED FRUITS. fruit can not be redeemed by any process. Another excellent way is to dry them in the oven, and, when about half done, place in a crock a.layer of peaches alternately with a layer of sugar ; tie papers over them and set away. Dried Peach Sauce. — Prepare as Dried Apple Sauce, |)ut do not mash or season so highly. Cook in porcelain, without stirring, and sweeten to taste just before taking from fire. Very nice sweet- ened with maple sugar. Dried Pineapple. — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, place it on dishes, strew over plenty of granulated sugar, and keep in a hot closet or very slow oven eight or ten days, turning the fruit every day until dry. Then put the slices on tins and set them in a quick oven for ten minutes. Let cool and put away in dry boxes with paper between each layer. Dried Plums. — Select perfect fruit, just ripe but not soft, wipe and stone and put in a porcelain kettle with a quarter pound sugar for every pound fruit. Heat slowly to extract the juice and scald thoroughly, but without boiling. Skim the plums out with a coarse wire skimmer and spread carefully on platters ; more plums may be scalded in same syrup, and when all are done boil the syrup until quite thick and pour over the plums placed to dry. Dry as quickly as possible. Some gather plums when full grown and just turning color and dry them whole. Prick the fruit, to prevent burst- ing, put into a saucepan cold water and set on fire until at boiling point ; then take out, drain, and boil gently in syrup, made in pro- portion of one-fourth pint water to every pound sugar. If the plums shrink and will not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan, give them another boil and set them away. Next day add more sugar boiled almost to candy ; jDut all together in wide-mouthed jar and place in cool oven for two nights. Then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over and dry in a cool oven. Prunes. — Look over and wash nice French prunes ; simmer gently in plenty of water, with a small stick cinnamon and a table- spoon strong vinegar to a pound of fruit, for ;it least six hours, and when thus thoroughly done, add just enough brown sugar to slightly sweeten them and thicken juice with a very little corn starch wet up in cold water ; or in place of vinegar use a quarter teaspoon cream tartar mixed with corn starch, let prunes just boil and remove from stove. This makes a most delicious sauce and when nearly done a few kernels extracted from the prune stones, dropped in the juice, give a delicate flavor. Browned Pruni'.t. — Soak prunes overnight in cold water, boil until tender, not allowing them to break, and take out the pits. DRIED FRUITS. 347 Grate some chocolate, mix it with three ounces powdered sugar and beaten whites of three eggs. Dip the prunes one by one in the mix- ture, and put them, without allowing them to touch, on a buttered tin. Bake fifteen minutes and serve hot. Prune Tapioca. — Soak half pint tapioca in one quart water three or four hours, keeping it just tepid, add juice of a lemon, and a little grated rind, three-fourths cup sugar and boil till clear, stir- ring occasionally. Place One and half pints stewed, sweetened and seeded prunes, without juice, in dish and cover with the tapioca. When cold cover with some whipped cream and serve. Or for Cherry Tap- ioca, place two cups dried cherries or three of stoned fresh ones, cooked and sweetened, in dish, cover with the boiled tapioca, and if wished, stir together and put in a mold ; then serve with whipped sweetened cream. Prune Whip. — Sweeten to taste and stew three-quarters pound prunes ; when 'perfectly cold, add whites of four eggs beaten stiff; stir all together till light, put in a dish, and bake twenty minutes ; when cold, serve in a larger dish, and cover well with good cream. Dried Fruit in Oakes. — Any fruit may be preserved by dry- ing as follows : To every pound fruit allow half pound sugar, with a little water. When water and sugar are heated, take fruit in skim- mer, and dip it for about a minute into the sugar, then spread it on tins. After all the fruit has been done thus, boil down the sugar to a rich, thick syrup, and pour it over the truit. The fruit must now be put either in the sun, or in a warm oven, till it is in a dried ge- latinous condition. Let remain till quite dry, when put in bags, di- viding it into cakes. These cakes will keep a long time, and when wanted for use, merely require a little hot water put to them, and probably extra sugar. Fruit Pastes. — These are really candied frui'tS in another form. Care must be taken in cooking not to scorch them. For an Apple Paste, peel and core sound, ripe apples and put in water until quite soft ; then rub through a puree sieve with a wooden spoon, weigh the pulp and put in a preserving kettle with same -weight of sugar and boil twenty minutes ; pour out thin on plates ,or in molds and dry on a cool stove or in a cool oven. Or, put an equal weight of ap- ples and stoned plums into a preserving pan. Boil without adding any water. When the fruit begins to get soft add a pound sugar to each pound pulp. Boil slowly for an hour, and pour into shallow molds ; place these in a slow oven, when the preserve will dry un- til it resembles a Fruit Cheese. To make an Apricot Paste, take ripe apricots, and put them in a preserving-pan with a little sugar, place on the side of the fire to reduce to paste, then rub through a hair sieve, allowing a half pound sifted sugar to every pound pulp. Put 348 DRIED FRUITS. it on the fire and boil ten minutes. Spread on tins to dry. Make Peach Paste tlie same, cooking ten minutes longer. For Currant Paste, take either red or white currants, rub through a sieve, after having picked them over thoroughly ; put the mashed fruit in a pan over the fire, stirring until it forms a paste ; remove it, and to every pound pulp put one and quarter pounds fine sugar. Mix together, and boil twenty minutes ; spread out on tin plates, cut into shapes and dry. For Orange Paste, press out the juice of five Seville oranges, boiling the rinds till they are very soft. With a thin wooden or bone spoon scoop out the pulp ; pound the rinds in a mortar, as fine as.possible, with half the juice of the oranges. Rub all through a hair sieve, and keep on the fire until it becomes like marmalade. Empty it out and weigh, allowing two pounds fine granulated sugar to each pound pulp. Boil it ten minutes, spread out thin on tin plates or tins, and cut it to any shape ; dry it and keep in tin boxes. Make Lemon Paste in same manner, but do not use any juice. To make either Cherry or Plum Paste stone the fruit, boil to a jam, put through a sieve and finish as in first recipe for Apple Paste. These pastes may be cut into rings or any fancy shapes, and colored wi,th a few droDS of the usual coloring. GAME. 349 G-AME. Under this head are included all the edible wild animals and wild fowl. No market in the world is so abundantly supplied with this species of food as the American. The point of contrast between the flesh of wild animals and that of domesticated and ar- tifically fed ones is the greater hardness and solidity of the flesh, the greater proportion of solid fibre to the juices, the less p1:oportion of water and fat in the juices, and the greater proportion of lean to fat. Hence it follows that under the same circumstances (say when both ■the wild and the tame animals have been killed within a day) the mastication of the flesh of wild animals is less easy, the flavor is more concentrated, and the proportion of flesh-forming compounds is greater. They are therefore strong foods, and if well digested are highly nutritious. Their decided flavor is also a recommenda- tion to invalids or others who, being satiated with ordinary food, need something to stimulp,te a defective appetite. White meated game should be cooked to well-done ; dark meated game rare, and should always be sent to table very hot, with hot plates. Keeping game renders it more tender, and brings out its flavor, and the longer it can be kept without tainting the better it is. This is especially true of the pheasant and snipe. Any game may be kept several days, in good condition by caring for it as follows : Pick, draw and rinse quickly with pure cold water ; wipe dry, and rub lightly inside with a mixture of fine salt and black pepper. If to be kept quite a while put in the cavity of each fowl a piece of charcoal, or rub in- side and out with powdered charcoal, hang in a cool dark place and cover with a cloth, alwaj's hanging by the neck. Small 350 GAME. birds, unless too many of them, may be kept in refrigerator. Char- coal is an admirable preventive of decomposition. If hunters would draw game ipimediately after killing and stuff with hay, until it could be placed in the hands of the cook, it would be found to have a fresher, finer flavor and would keep much longer. Of game birds the woodcock outranks all in delicate tenderness and sweet flavor, but must not be kept too long. The thigh is especially deemed a choice tidbit. The leg is the finest part of the snij/e, but generally the breast is the most juicy and nutritious part of birds. When birds have become tainted, pick clean as soon as possible and im- merse in new milk for twenty-four hours, when they will be quite sweet and fit for cooking. Prairie chickens will keep well two or three days. Birds should be carefully dry-picked if feathers are wished, and if the wings are wanted, cut them off at the first joint be- fore picking. Some then remove all feathers that come off easily, plunge for an instant inboiling hot water, and finish picking ; while others do not put in water at all. When picked, singe, draw, wipe clean and remove all shot. Or, a quicker, easier and much nicer way is to skin without picking ; if the skin is not broken make a small incision in the back and it will easily pull off. It is better not to skin ducks and geese, which should be dry-picked, scalded, and rolled in a woolen cloth ten or fifteen minutes ; then finish picking and scrape the skin if necessary. Singe, draw and dress. Singeing with alco- hol is much nicer and cleaner than with paper and does not darken the skin. Pour four or five tablespoons in a pan, light it and hold game over it. If more alcohol is wished, do not add till all is con- sumed. Game should not be washed, unless absolutely necessary for cleanliness. With cq,re in dressing, wiping inside with a damp cloth will render them perfectly clean. If necessary to wash, do it quickly and use as little water as possible. Some wash the inside of game, particularly prairie chickens, with soda and water, rinsing Avell with clear water, then dry with cloth. The more plainly all kinds of wild birds are cooked the better they retain their fine flavor. They require a brisker fire than poultry, but take less time to cook. Their color, when done, should be a fine yellowish brown. Broiling is a favorite method of cooking game, and all birds are exceedingly nice roasted, especially quail. To broil, split down the back, open and flatten the breast bone by covering with a cloth GAME. 531 and pounding, and lay the inside first upon the gridiron ; turn as soon as browned, and when almost done take off, place on a platter, sprinkle with salt, and return to the gridiron. When done, place in a hot dish, butter both sides well and serve at once. The time required is usually about twenty minutes. Broiling is the simplest of all forms of cooking and may be done well with a little attention. A brisk, clear fire, not too high in the stove, is necessary to do it with ease, but if necessary to have a high fire for other cooking, elevate the gridiron on two bricks to prevent scorching. Have the gridiron . — Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding day will answer for this dish. Cut into joints, GAME. 355 reserve the legs, wings and breasts until wanted ; put the trimmings into a stewpan with four shallots and a pint stock, simmer about half an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a tablespoon butter into a stewpan ; when melted, dredge in a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones; boil and strain again; add 'juice of half a lemon and cayenne and salt to taste ; lay in the pieces of duck, and gradually warm through, but do not boil, or the meat will be hard. The gravy should not be too thick, and should be very highly seasoned. The squeeze of a Seville orange is a great im- provement to this dish. Roast Wild Buck. — The peculiar flavor of wild ducks is not liked by many and may be removed by parboiling with a carrot or an onion before roasting, having first singed them, wiped well the in- side with wet towel and cut off head. When tender stuff with a bread-dressing seasoned with salt, pepper, onion and sage ; roast be- fore a brisk fire or in oven, basting often, until brown and tender. When the ducks are taken up, skim and thicken the gravy with browned flour and send to table in a tureen. Serve currant or grape jelly with the ducks. Instead of the stuffing, a^imple dressing of parboiled onions mixed with chopped sage, salt, pepper and a good slice of butter may be employed, or stuff with chopped celery or mashed potatoes and when brown season with salt and pepper. _ It will take about three-quarters of an hour to roast ducks well; twenty minutes will do them rare. When preferred rare it is best not to stuff them. Cut an onion in two and put in the body, then truss or bind, dredge with salt, pepper and cloves and roast in quick oven thirty minutes or before a hot fire forty, basting often. Serve with currant jelly or equal parts currant jelly and dry mustard mixed, or with garnish of fried hominy and currant jelly, or apple sauce and green peas. Teal can be cooked like Wild Duck. Many cooks stuff them with a bread and onion dressing, but this spoils their flavor ; it is better to serve an onion and bread sauce with them, if liked. The birds should be quickly roasted or baked in a hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes, as th'ey are liked medium or well done. Season with pepper and salt and serve a sliced lemon or fresh green salad with them. Stewed Wild Duck. — Cut up and parboil fifteen minutes with a carrot or onion ; cut into joints, put in a stewpan and cover with a gravy made of the giblets," neck, etc. ; season with salt and pepper, a bunch sweet herbs and chopped onions, and stew gently till done. Take up the meat, thicken the gravy with browned flour, boil up once, pour over the duck and serve immediately. Or for a Stew with Oreen Peas, parboil, or half roast, then put into a stewpan with a pint water, or beef gravy, a few chopped mint and sage leaves, pep- per, salt and half an onion chopped very fine. Cook fifteen minutes and skim out the herbs ; then add a quart green peas and cook half 356 GAME. hour longer. Stir in a tablespoon each butter and flour, boil up once, and serve with the duck in center of dish and peas around. Some prefer to cook the peas separately and serve rounded up in center wjth the joints around. Some stuff and roast the ducks twenty minutes then take out and stew as above. Duck Stewed with Rice is liked by many. To prepare, quickly brown the duck in a hot oven ; meantime peel an onion, chop it fine, and put into a saucepan with heaping tablespoon butter ; when the duck is brown, cut in joints, put with the butter an onion, and fry all together till the onion is brown ; then stir in a tablespoon flour and brown it, add a pint of boiling water, a high seasoning of salt and pepper, and half a cup of rice which has been picked over and washed. Cover and cook all gently half an hour, being careful not to burn. If rice absorbs all the water, add more as required, but do not make very moist. When both rice and duck are tender, serve them together. The remains of a cold roast duck may be made into a stew with a pint gravy and a little sage ; cover closely, and simmer half an hour ; add a pint boiled green peas, stew a few minutes, remove to a dish, and pour over it the gravy and peas. « Salmi of Duck. — Save remnants of cold duck or other game, trim meat off neatly, set aside ; place all the remains (boneS, gravy, etc.,) in a saucepan and cover with cold water ; bring gentlj' to a boil ; skim, add an onion that has been cut up and fried brown {not iurned) ; simmer gently for about an hour, then set saucepan in a cool place- long enough to allow the fat to rise and "settle on top;" skim this off carefully — it will be nice to fry potatoes with. Now return saucepan to fire, and when about to 1 >i)il strain off liquid ; set on again, add salt and skim. If the liquid looks cloudy, let it boil up, throw in a little cold water, and the scum will rise. Xow put in the pepper and such spice as may be desired, also a bunch of herbs tied ujj in a piece of muslin, or very finely powdered. Take a large spoon of flour that has been baked in the oven and kept for gravy, mix it well with a lump of Dutter same size, put this and the meat all in together and stir well until it is just ready to boil again, but see that it does not hoil ] cover closely and set back where it may keep vcrif hot without cooking. The safest plan is to put the ■saucepan in a vessel of hot water for ten or fifteen minutes. Roast Wild Goose. — Dry pick, as feathers are especially choice, and if possible pick clean, as meat is nicer if not scalded, but if all cannot be removed, plunge in boiling water, wrap quickly in a woolen cloth and let stand fifteen minutes, when finish picking and scrajDe with a knife to better clean tlie skin, singe with alcohol, draw, wash or wipe clean and parboil with an onioninside (alargeonion to an eighx-pound goose) in slightly salted boiling water till commenc- ing to be tender, half an hour for a young goose, longer if an old one. Take out, rub inside with salt and pepper and stuff with a Bread- GAME. 357 Dressing as given in first recipe for Roast Turkey, or as follows : Quart finely minced bread-crumbs, tablespoon minced onion, level teaspoon each salt, pepper, sage and chopped parsley if liked, one. egg, half cup warm water, half cup butter or fat from fried sausage ; mix ingredients all together in a pan, not making the dressing too moist, as it will absorb , gravy while baking. The egg should be first mixed with the water. Or stuff with a Potato- Dressing made as follows : Mash six boiled potatoes through a colander, and add two teaspoons each butter and onion juice, and one each salt, white pepper and sage ; or first chop an onion and fry a light yellow in the butter,_ and add the potato and a well-beaten egg. Or for an Onion- Dressing, peel four large onions, put into boiling water, let simmer five or ten minutes and just before they are taken out put in ten sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness, skim out and chop very ime, add quarter pound bread-crumbs, seasoning, and two tablespoons butter, and work the whole together with yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be readj^ for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and many do not parboil the onions, but merely use them raw. The stufiing then is not nearly so mild. This is nice for either goose, ducks or pork. If for goose add the liver, first simmered a few moments and then very finely minced. Or, boil in water to cover four apples, peeled and cored, four onions, sage and thyme leaves. When done, pulp through a sieve, removing leaves ; then add enough pulp ofmealypotatoes to cause stuffing to be so dry as not to stick to hand. Season with pepper and salt. 'Par: a, Fruit- Dress- ing^ stew one pound prunes as in recipe for stewed prunes, using as lit- tle water as possible, and add to them same quantity of tart apple sauce and a few raisins if liked, and let stew together till quite dry, adding sugar to taste (some prefer twice as much apple sauce as prunes ) ; stuff as above or, when bread-dressing is used, it is very nice to garnish with spoonfuls of this around the goose ; or omit prunes and use teacup raisins, using raisins also in the gravy ; or take three quarters pound pulp of tart apples, which have been previously baked or steamed, ^dd two ounces bread-crumbs, some powdered sage, a finely chop- ped onion, and season with a little cayenne pepper. After goose is stuffed, sew up and tie in shape as described in recipe for roast tur- key. Place in oven on dripj^ing pan, on a trivet or pieces of hard wood, with a little of the water in which goose was parboiled ; put bits of butter or slices of fat salt pork over the goose, and to make extra nice, unless very fat, add a little butter to the drippings each time of basting, which will want to be every ten minutes, adding more of the parboiled water as needed. Where the onion flavor is an objection, simply put hot water in the roasting pan. When al- most done baste with melted butter, dredge with flour, let brown, then a little more butter till nicely frothed and browned. Some claim, that a specially nice way to roast is to begin by basting with a teacup cider; then, when it begins to warm, dredge with flour; 358 GAME. afterwards baste with its own fat and gravy, mixing with the cider. In either way, when browned, place in pan in oven, as directed, till grp,vy is made, using the giblets in the same manner, if good, as for Roast Turkey, adding also the parboiled water from the goose. Those liking onion flavor can slice onion when used in parboiling, putting some slices inside goose and some in kettle, and leave all in the water for the gravy. Place goose on hot platter, made hot by pouring hot water upon it, being careful to pour in center first ; gar- nish with a border of baked, cored, tart apples, being careful not to have them bursted. Always serve apple sauce with goose. Wild Duck c&n be prepared in same way. Goose, duck and all game, being rather dry, are especially nice larded, but placing pieces of salt pork on them while cooking answers the same purpose, but does not present the handsome appearance when served as does a Larded Goose. Smoked Goose. — Split the goose down the back, rubbing it well with quarter ounce saltpetre," afterwards salting with common salt, and rubbing with coarse brown sugar ; let it lie in pickle for about ten days if it be summer, but fourteen if winter ; rub it and turn it regularly every day, roll in saw-dust, and smoke it. The breast alone is nice prepared as above. Any wild game can be prepared in like manner. Braised Grouse. — Clean thoroughly, washing out the inside in soda and water, and then rinsing and wiping. Truss, but do not stuff the birds ; tie them in shape. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with slices of fat salt pork ; lay the grouse upon these ; sprinkle minced onion and parsley over them, with pepper, salt and a little sugar. Cover them with more pork, and pour in a large cup of soup stock, or other broth. Cover very closely ; simmer one hour ; turn the birds and cook — always covered— until tender. Dish the grouse, strain the gravy, thicken with browned flour, boil up and pour into gravy-boat. Patridges and Wild Pigeons may also be cooked in this way. Boast Grouse. — Clean and wash the birds, lard breast and legs run a skewer into the legs and through the tail, and tie firmly with twine. Dredge with salt, rub the breast with soft butter and dredge thickly with flour. Put into a quick oven and cook twenty minutes if wanted very rare ; if wished better done, thirty minutes. Baste often. Serve on toast which has been soaked in the dripping-pan and buttered, or on bread sauce sprinkled with fried bread-crumbs, and garnish with parsley. Or clean, truss, and stuff the birds ; cover with thin slices of corned ham, binding all with buttered pack thread. Eoast three-quarters of an hour, basting with butter and water three times, then with the dripping. "\^^hen quite done, dish with the ham laid about the body of the bird. Skim the gravy, thicken with browned flour, and season with pepper and the juice of GAME. 359 a lemon. Or put a tablespoon butter in each bird, then lay each one, covered with strips of bacon, on a slice of dry toast in the drip- ping-pan ; ^s soon as they begin to get at all dry moisten them well with stock,^ and baste and turn them several times. Serve on a hot platter garnished with parsley or cress, and the toast (which will be delicious) cut^n points. Grouse Pie. — Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound rump- steak cut into neat pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints ; but if small, they may be laid in the pie whole ; season highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper ; pour in a half pint broth, and cover with a puff paste ; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and bake about an hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones and trimmings will make the gravy, by stew- ing them with an onion, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace ; this should be poured in after the pie is baked Orouse Salad. — Boil eight eggs hard, throw them into cold water and shell, cut a thin slice off the bottom so they will stand in dish, cut each one into four pieces, lengthwise, and make a very thin flat border of butter, about one inch" from the edge of the dish the salad is to be served on; place the pieces of egg upright, close to each other, the yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately ; lay in the center a fresh green salad of whatever is in season, and, hav- ing previously roasted the grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare the sauce as follows : Put one tablespoon chopped shallot or onion into a bowl with two table- spoons sugar, the yolk of an egg, a teaspoon minced parsley, tea- spoon and half salt, and stir in gradually four tablespoons Chili vinegar and twelve of oil ; when all ingredients are well mixed put the sauce on ice or in a cool place. "When ready to serve, whip four tablespoons cream rather thick, which lightly mix with it ; then lay inferior parts of grouse on the salad, put sauce over so as to cover each piece, then add more salad and the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be orna- mented with a little dot of radishes or beet-root on the point. An- chovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds may be placed be- tween; or cut gherkins in slices, and use as a border. The remains of Cold Pheasant or Partridge may be used in same manner, and will make a very delicate dish. Grouse Sandwiches. — Chop cold grouse very fine, and then pound in a mortar, or rub through a sieve with a potato-masher; mix the pounded meat with an equal quantity currant jelly, and put it between thin slices of bread without crust. Or cut the meat in small thin slices, and put it between leaves of lettuce laid on thin slices of buttered bread ; the lettuce leaves may be dipped in plain salad-dressing, made by mixing three tablespoons salad oil with one 360 GAME. of "vinegar, and a seasoning of salt and pepper, or sauce of currant jelly and mustard may be used. Jugged Hare. — Skin, wipe with a towel dipped in boiling water, to remove the loose hairs, dry thoroughly and cut in pieces, strew with pepper and salt, fry brown, season with two anchovies, a sprig of thyme, a little chopped parsley, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and grated lemon peel. Put a layer of the pieces with the seasoning into a wide-mouthed jug or jar, then a layer of bacon sliced very thin, and so on till all is used ; add a scant half pint of water, cover the jug close and put in cold water, let boil three or four hours, according to the age of the hare ; take the jug out of kettle, pick out the uh- melted bacon and make a gravy of a little butter and flour with a little catsup. A teaspoon of lemon peel will heighten the flavor. Roast Hare. — Have the hare skinned and well cleaned, stuff as fowl, with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, chopped fat pork, a little sweet majoram, onion, pepper and salt, just moistened with hot water. Sew up with fine cotton, tie legs closely to the body in a kneeling position, lay in dripping-pan, back uppermost, pour two cups boiling water over it, cover with another pan and bake, closely covered — except when basting with butter and water — for three quar- ters of an hour. Uncover, baste freely with the gravy until nicely browned; dredge with flour and baste with butter until a fine froth appears on the surface. Take up hare, put in another pan on a trivet or rack and place in oven while gravy is being made. Skim that left in the pan, add water if necessary, season, thicken with browned flour, stir in tablespoon currant jelly and some chopped parsley, boil up, pour a few spoonfuls of it over the hare, and serve the rest in a gravy-boat. Clip the threads and send the hare in with currant jelly around it, as this is an indispensable accompaniment. Some baste well with milk for a short time, and afterwards with but- ter, basting often so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When nicely frothed, dish, remove the twine, and send to table with a little gravy in dish, and a gravy-boat of same. For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for milk and butter in basting, which must be continued almost without inter- mission. If liver is good, it may be parboiled, minced, and mixed with the stuffing ; but it should not be used unless quite fresh. The Jack Rabbit of our western prairies is said to be closely akin to the much prized English hare and equally as fine eating. Some broil slightly over the coals, to give firmness to the flesh, then cover with slices of fat pork from the neck to the legs, roast it for an hour, and serve with sharp sauce to which has been added the chopped liver. Landrails — After birds have been drawn they should be wiped very clean with a damp cloth. Tlu'y must be continuously basted GAME. 361 with butter, and will take about fifteen minutes to cook. Put them on a layer of fried bread-crumbs on an exceedingly hot dish. Send to table with a tureen of bread sauce, and one of good gravy. This is a nice side dish. Mashed Partridge. — Take three partridges and after they are plucked and drawn, roast rather underdone, covering with paper, as they should not be browned ; cut into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs and breasts ; put these into a stewpan, cover and set by until gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and put into a stewpan with a sliced carrot, three or four mushrooms, three sliced shallots, a bunch of savory herbs, two cloves, and six whole peppers, and fry lightly in a little butter, pour in three-fourths pint stock, add the bones and trimmings from the partridges, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain the gravy, let cool, and skim off every particle of fat ; put it to the legs, wings, and breasts; let all gradually warm through on back of stove, and when on the point of boiling, serve, garnishing the dish with crou- tons. The remains of roast partridge do very well dressed in this way, although not so good as when the birds are only half roasted. This recipe is equally good for Pheasants, Prairie Chickens, etc., but care must be taken always to skin the joints. Potted Partridge. — Pluck and draw the partridges and wipe inside with a damp cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper and salt, mix together and rub every part of the birds with this. Pack as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of butter over, and cover with a coarse flour-and-water crust. Tie a paper over this, and bake rather more than one and a half hours ; let the birds getcold, then cut into pieces for keeping, pack closely in large potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should be kept in a cool dry pla-ee. The' butter used for potting game will answer for basting, or for paste for meat-pies. Roast Partridge. — Clean and wash out the inside with soda water, afterwards rinsing in fresh water. Unjoint the legs at the first joint, truss and cover breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork, tying the pork on with twine. Place the partridge on its back in the baking-pan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut on it ; set it in a quick oven, baste often with butter and serve on a dish sur- rounded by bread-crumbs fried brown and arranged in small heaps ; pour over the bird a gravy made frorii the drippings in pan thickened with browned flour and flavored with lemon juice. Or spread thin slices of ham or bacon over the entire bird and tie on with twine, removing just in time to brown nicely. Stewed Partridges. — Prepare two young partridges as for roast- ing, lard the breasts with three or four strips fat bacon, cutting off the ends, and place the birds in a stew pan, with a cabbage cut in 362 GAME. quarters and heart removed, over them ; put in also a carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, bunch sweet herbs, quarter teaspoon pep- per, quarter pound Bologna sausage (uncooked) and half pound rather lean bacon, slightly freshened. Put in broth or stock to cover and a half cup good drippings. Cover closely, first placing a cloth over stewpan, then fitting in the cover and simmer an hour and a half. Take out the meat and place in oven to keep hot, drain the cabbage and stir in a pan over fire with seasoning of salt and pepper until free from moisture, then place a layer on a dish, take out and undo the birds and lay them around the outer edge and put more cabbage in center. Cut the sausage and bacon in slices and serve as a garnish with the sliced carrot. Make a brown gravy in the stewpan and send to table with it. Partridge Pie. — Line a deep pie dish with veal cutlets and over them place a slice of ham and seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw and wipe the partridges, cut ofi"legs at first joint and season inside with salt, pepper, minced parsley and a small piece butter, place in dish and pour in half pint any stock, or water and table- spoon butter will do ; line edge with puff-paste and cover with same, bake three-quarters of an hour, brush over with the Roll Glaze or simply a yolk of egg and bake fifteen minutes longer. If partridges are large, split in two. Partridges with Mushrooms. — Prepare brace of young part- ridges, dredge a little flour over and brown them equally and hghtly in hot butter. Put them side by side into a stewpan, pour in as much rich brown gravy, seasoned with salt and cayenne, as will half cover them, and stew Very gently until half done. Turn them over, put in with them two dozen small mushrooms, and simmer again until the birds are done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over them. Rissoles of Partridge. — Take three roast partridges, one half cup mushrooms, one cup each butter, flour, cream, and broth or water, a slight grating of nutmeg, a little lemon juice, pepper and salt. Cut meat into the smallest dice, mince the mushrooms and add, sprinkle with a teaspoon of mixed pepper and salt, grate a lit- tle nutmeg and squeeze a lemon over. Make a cream sauce by stir- ring the butter and flour together in a saucepan and adding the broth and cream when it begins to bubble, and when the sauce is ready moisten the meat with it, stir up well and set it away to be- come cold. Then make out in rolls about the size of a finger, roll in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs and fry in hot lard. Pile in the dish and garnish with fried parsley. Broiled Pheasant. — Scald and skin, cut the breast in two and the rest in joints, being careful to remove all shot ; put in hot water all except the breast (which will be tender enough without parboiling) GAME. 363 and boil until it can be pierced with fork ; take out, rub over salt and butter, and broil with breast over brisk fire ; place a lump of butter on each piece, season with pepper and set all in the oven for a few minutes. For breakfast, serve on fried mush, and for dinner, on toast with a bit of currant jelly over each piece, or with Sara- easantwth Potatoes. ^oga potatocsln Center. Or it may be served with toast cut in pieces about two inches square, over which pour gravy made by thickening the liquor in which the birds were boiled with a little butter and flour rubbed together and stirred in while boiling. This is more appetizing but not as handsome a method of serving as above. Garnish with water-cresses, pepper-grass or other greens. Or put pieces into a frying-pan with a little lard, and when browned on both sides, and about half done, take out and drain ; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs with which has been mixed a good seasoning of cayenne and salt. Broil over moderate fire about ten minutes, or rather longer, and serve with mushroom sauce, sauce piquant, or brown gravy in which a few game-bones and trimmings have been stewed. Prairie Chick- ens, Partridges and Squirrels may be prepared same way. Roast Pheasant. — The bird should be carefully plucked, drawn and singed, then stuff with a dressing made as follows : Take two snipes and draw them, putting the bodies on one plate, and the liv- ers, etc., on another. Take off the flesh and mince it finely with a little beef, lard, a few truffles, pepper and salt ^^ ,,«ifnilllB»>v to taste, and stufi" the pheasant carefully with /^iiillR(«> this. Cut a slice of bread, larger than the ^^^^S ^Sm^^^ i^ bird, and cover it with the liver, etc., a ^s ^^^^ ^C^^Z^^rJ few truffles, with an anchovy and a little fresh Roast piiea.aiit butter added, if liked. Put the bread thus prepared, into the drip- ping-pan, and when the bird is roasted place it on the preparation, and surround with Florida, oranges. Moast Prairie Chickens a,nd Partridges are equally delicious. Pheasant Cutlets. — Procure three young pheasants that have been hung for a few days ; pluck, draw, and wipe them inside ; cut into joints ; remove the bones from the best of these ; put the back- bones, trimmings, etc., into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables and seasoning to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets to a good shape, egg and bread-crumb them, broil over a clear fire, pile high in a dish, and pour under them the gravy made from the bones, which should be strained, flavored and thickened. One of the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet. Boast Pigeons. — Only young and tender pigeons should be roasted. Dress carefully, and after washing clean, wipe dry and put into each bird a small piece of butter dipped in cayenne. Or fill 364 GAME. ttem with a stuffing of bread-crumbs, a tablespoon butter, a little salt and nutmeg, and three oysters to each bird (some prefer chop- ped apple). Truss the wings over the back and roast at least thirty minutes in a quick oven, keeping constantly basted with butter. Dish with young water-cresses, or a garnish of parsley and serve with browned gravy. Or they may be roasted with a slice of bacon over the breasts. Stewed Pigeons. — Put the pigeons in a large stewpan with a cup water to keep from burning and a tablespoon butter for each bird. Cover, and simmer slowly until a nice dark brown. Turn occas- sionally and see that each is well placed in the liquor. When about half done take out and set in oven or over hot water to keep hot while a gravy is made. Chop the giblet& very fine, with a little onion and parsley. Put into the gravy, pepper and salt, boil up and thicken with browned flour. Put the pigeons back in the pan, cover tightly and cook slowlj until tender. If there is not enough liquor for the gravy, add boihng water before putting in the giblets. Or put slices of bacon in bottom of stewpan ; lay in the pigeons, side by side, carefully tied in shape, all their breasts Uppermost ; add a sliced carrot, an onion with a clove stuck in, a teaspoon sugar, and chopped ^ parsley, and pour over enough stock or boiling stewed pigeons, water to cover them. Put thin slices of bacon over the pigeons ; cover them as closely as possible, adding boiling water or stock when necessary, and simmer until very tender. Serve each pigeon on a thin piece of buttered toast, and for an extra dish with a border of spinach, or make little nets of spinach on pieces of toast, putting a pigeon into each nest. For Pigeons a la Mode, make a stuffing of bits of salt pork, dry bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper, thyme, and one egg. Stuff each bird, lay in a stewpan, cover with water, and add a little thyme and the juice of a lemon. Cook until tender and serve with a gravy made as above. Pigeon Pie. — Make either a fine puff paste or a rich baking powder crust, as liked ; lay a border of it around a large dish, and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, or a very tender steak free from fat and bone ; season with salt, cayenne pepper and mace. Prepare as many pigeons as can be put in one layer in the dish ; put in each pigeon a small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt ; lay them in the dish breast downwards, and cut in slices a half dozen hard-boiled eggs, and put with them ; put in more butter, some veal broth and cover the whole with crust. Bake slowly an hour and a half. The pigeons majr first be fried a light brown in butter. Or split the birds and cut in quarters and put in first a laver of steak, then one of pigeons and then one of sausage meat higbly seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered allspice, then another layer of each until all are used. Pour in just enough hot water to moisten and GAME. 365 cover the pie with crust, wetting the edges to make them adhere ; cut little slits in the crust to permit the steam to escape j brush the crust with beaten egg and bake in moderate oven two hours. For another excellent pie take about eight pigeons or other small birds, and make a- stuffing of bread and onions. Stuff each bird, then put into a stewpan about a tablespoon lard, and a dessert-spoon flour and brown nicely ; cut a small onion very fine and fry it, adding the birds which should fry awhile before putting a pint of water over them, and let them boil until done. Take them out ; add about two dozen oysters, with a little of the oyster-water, to gravjr, a table- spoon butter, salt, black pepper, allspice, and nutmeg ; line a bak- ing-dish with pastry, put the birds in with the gravy, cover with the pastry and bake. Pot-Boast of Prairie Chickens.— :Skiia., draw, wash, wipe dry, tie in shape without stuffing, and parboil in water to cover ; cook till tender, adding more water if necessary. Take out chicken and pour broth in crock to keep for gravy. Put two tablespoons butter in ket- tle, let brown, put in chicken and keep turning it till nearly browned, about five or ten minutes, then add pint broth in which it was par- boiled, put on cover and let cook till almost dry, then add more broth, season with salt and pepper and keep cooking and adding broth till chicken is done, and there is a pint of rich brown gravy left in kettle. Take out chicken, put in pan in oven to keep hot, and make a Sour Cream Gravy by adding one pint sour cream, and one tablespoon baking molasses. Thicken with a tablespoon flour stirred smooth in a little cream, either sweet or sour, let boil five minutes and then serve chicken on hot platter, garnished, if liked, with parsley, and gravy in gravy boat. Pheasants, Quail, Duck, Spring Chickens and any small game are nice cooked as above, and the gravy can be made in same way where game is roasted in oven. Boast Prairie Chickens. — Skin or pluck them, as preferred, cut off head and feet, and draw without breaking intestines, wash, and for each bird put a tablespoon finely chopped onion in a frying-pan over the fire with two heaping tablespoons finely-chopped salt pork or butter ; as soon as the onion is brown add a heaping cup soft bread-crumbs, a level teaspoon each salt and any powdered sweet herb except sage, a saltspoon pepper, and a tablespoon butter; use this as soon as hot for stuffing the birds, and either put them before a good fire to roast, or in a dripping-pan set in a hot oven ; cook about half an hour, basting occasionally with drippings from them ; when done keep hot while a gravy is made as follows : Place the dripping-pan over fire ; for each bird stir in a level tablespoon flour until it is brown, and then gradually stir in a scant pint boil- ing water ; season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let boil two or three minutes, and serve with the birds. Garnish with sprigs of parsley alternated with currant jelly. A delicious sauce cto be 366 GAME. made by mixing half a glass currant jelly for each bird with the drippings in the pan, and stirring the sauce over the fire until it boils to the proper consistency; another excellent cold sauce is made by mixmg a tablespoon dry mustard thoroughly with a glass of currant jelly. Plain boiled potatoes, or potatoes re-warmed, with butter, salt and pepper, may be served with the birds. Boast Pheas- ant and Partridge the same way. Steamed Prairie Chicken. — Wash thoroughly but quickly, using some soda in the water, rinse and dry, fill with dressing, sew up with cotton thread, and tie down the legs and wings ; place in a steamer over hot water till done, remove to a dripping-pan, cover with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, place in the oven and baste with the melted butter until a nice brown ; serve with either apple sauce, cranberries, or currant jelly. Stewed Prairie Chicken. — Cut in joints, put over the fire in a saucepan with butter and brown quickly ; for each bird add half a glass currant Jelly, level teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper and sufiicient boihng water to cover ; cook slowly until tender, adding a little more water if necessary, and serve them on toast, with the gravy from the pan poured over. Or, put about tablespoon butter, and two of salt pork, cut into bits, in a saucepan, and set on quick fire ; when butter is melted put the bird in, and brown it all round ; then add four small onions, half a carrot in slices, salt and pepper, stir till onions and carrots are partly fried ; then add a pint of good broth and a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil gently till done. Dish the bird, strain the gravy over it, and serve hot. Salmi of Prairie Chickens. — This is an excellent way of serv- ing the remains of roasted game ; but when a choice dish is desired, the birds must be scarcely more than half roasted. In either case cut up neatly, and strip every particle of fat and skin from the legs, wings, and breast ; bruise the bodies well, and put them with the skin and other trimmings into a stewpan ; add two or three sliced shallots or onions, small blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns ; pour in a pint or more of good veal gravy or strong broth, and boil briskly until reduced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the bones well to obtain all the flavor, skim off the fat, add a little cay- enne and lemon juice and heat the birds very gradually in it with- out allowing it to boil; place bits of fried bread round a dish, arrange the birds in the center, give the sauce a boil, and pour it over them. Partridges and other wild-fowl can be prepared in same way. Fried Quail. — Split open on the back and boil until tender ; have an equal quantity butter and lard hot in frying-pan, put in the birds and fry a nice light brown. Lay the quau on slices of GAME. • 367 toasted bread and pour over them a nice gravy made in pan. Pheasants oiay be cooked in same way, served on platter without toast. Roast Quail. — Pluck and dress like chickens, wipe clean, and rub both inside and out with salt and pepper ; stuff with any good dressing, and sew up with fine thread ; spread with butter and place in an oven with a good steady heat, turning and basting often with hot water seasoned with butter, salt and pepper ; bake three-quar- ters of an hour. When about half done add a little hot water to the pan, and it is well to place a dripping-pan over them to prevent browning too much. Add to the gravy, flour and butter rubbed to- gether, and water if needed. Or, when cleaned, cover the birds with thin slices of ham or bacon and then wrap in grape leaves or tie in buttered paper, place in pan with piece of butter size of hazelnut and baste well, adding very little water. While the quail are baking cut as many square pieces of bread as there are birds, fry in hot lard, put on dish, and when done, lay the birds on them, removing the twine which holds the legs, and the paper. Some prefer to re- move the papers to brown the birds before taking up. Turn the gravy, thickened with the quail livers pounded to a paste, over the birds ; decorate the dish with water-cress sprinkled with vinegar or lemon juice. Or send to table with a plate of fried bread-crumbs and bread sauce in a tureen. In serving put a quail on each plate, pour over a tablespoon of the sauce, and on this place a tablespoon crumbs, or the sauce-boat and plate of crumbs may be passed separ- ately. To make the sauce, roll a pint dry bread-crumbs, and pass half of them through a sieve. Put a small onion into a pint milk, and when it boils remove the onion, and thicken the milk with the half pint sifted crumbs ; take it from the fire, and stir in a heaping teaspoon butter, a grating of nutmeg, pepper and salt. To prepare the crumbs, put a little butter into a saucepan, and when hot throw in the half pint of coarser crumbs which remained in the sieve ; stir over the fire until they assume a light brown color, taking care that they do not burn, and add a small pinch cayenne pepper. Steamed Quail. — Clean the birds carefully, using a little soda in the water in which they are washed ; rinse, wipe dry, and fill with dressing, sewing up nicely, and binding down the legs and wings with cords. Put in a steamer over hot_ water, and let cook until just done. Then place in a pan with a little butter ; set them in the oven and baste frequently with melted butter until a nice brown. They ought to brown nicely in about fifteen minutes. Serve on a platter, with sprigs of parsley alternating with currant jelly. Quail Fricassee. — Prepare six quail as for roasting. Grate the crumb of a small stale loaf of bread, scrape one pound fat bacon, chop thyme, parsley, an onion and a lemon peel fine, and season 368 GAMK. with salt and pepper ; mix with two eggs ; put this forcemeat into the quail, lard the breasts and fry brown ; place them in a stewpaa with some beef stock and stew three-quarters of an hour ; thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve with forcemeat balls around the dish and strain the gravy over the birds. Pigeon Fricas- see is prepared as above. Quail on Toast. — Dry pick, singe with paper, cut off heads, and disjoint legs at first joint, draw, split down the back, and break down breast and backbone so they will lie flat ; soak in salt and water for five or ten minutes, drain and dry with a cloth, lard with bacon or butter, and rub salt over them, place on broiler and turn often, dipping two or three times into melted butter; broil about twenty minutes. Have ready as many shoes of buttered toast as there are birds, and serve a bird, breast upward, on each slice with currant jelly. Or cook them, prepared as above, in a covered pan in hot oven, with a very little water, until nearly done. Then fry in frying-pan with hot butter to a nice brown, and serve on buttered toast. Make a sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken lightly with browned flour and pour over each quail. Plover and Reed Birds may be broiled in same way. Pigeons should be first parboiled and then broiled and served same. Pabhits. — They are in best condition in mid-winter and are prepared for cooking by first skinning by cutting a slit under the throat ; as it is pulled off, turn skin over so as to enclose the hair that it may not touch the skin ; or cut skin of legs around first j oints ; loosen skin oft hind legs all around, and cut it inside thighs as far as tail, then turn the skin back until the hind legs are free from it, and hang up the carcass by them ; next pull the skin downward toward the head, slipping out the fore legs when they are reached ; after cutting off feet, either cut off head at neck or skin it, and cut off end of nose with skin, then draw, wash, wipe dry, and in cooking them always lard, or lay or tie pieces of salt pork or bacon over them as they are dry meated. Boiled Rabbit. — Skin, wash well in cold water, and let soak for about fifteen minutes in warm water, to draw out the blood. Bring the head round to the side, and fasten it there by means of a skewer run through that and the body. Put the rabbit in sufficient hot water to cover, let boil very gently until tender, which will be from half an hour to an hour, according to its size and age. Dish and smother it either with onions, mushroom, or liver sauce, or parsley and butter ; the former is, however, generally preferred to any of the last named sauces. When liver sauce is preferred, the liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very finely, or rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce. GAME. 869 Curried RahMt. — Have the rabbit carefully drawn, skinned and washed ; cut into joints and putin stewpan with two tablespoons butter or drippings and three sliced onions ; let brown, but not burn ; pour in one pint boiling stock ; mix one tablespoon each curry and flour smoothly in a little water, and put in pan with pepper and salt and one teaspoon mushroom powder ; some add also a few cloves ; simmer half an hour or more ; squeeze in juice of half a lemon, a little parsley, and serve in the center of a platter with a half pound rice, boiled dry, piled round it. Water may be used instead of stock, and a little sour apple and grated cocoa-nut stewed with the curry if liked. Fricasseed Rabbit. — Skin and cut in pieces. Lay in cold water a few minutes, drain and put in saucepan with pepper and a quarter of a pound of pickled pork, cut in strips. Cover with water, and simmer half an hour. Then add an onion chopped, a tablespoon of chopped parsley, a blade of mace, and two cloves. Mix to a smooth paste a tablespoon flour, stir it in and simmer till meat is tender, then stir in half cup rich cream. If not thick enough add a little more flour. Boil up once and serve. Or for a Creoled Rahhit, put pieces in an earthen bean-pot with close cover,^ alternate with lay- ers of sliced onions, and season highly with salt and pepper ; cover the top with slices of raw ham or bacon, and bake in a moderate oven an hour and three-quarters. Serve hot. Fried Rabbit. — When nicely dressed lay it in a pan with cold water, add a half cup salt and soak overnight. In the morning drain off' water, cut up and roll each piece in corn meal and let stand till time to cook for dinner ; then rinse, cut up and parboil in slightly salted water, with one large or two small onions sliced in it, until tender ; take out, roll in corn meal or equal parts meal and flour and fry in a little butter a nice brown. Make a gravy in the pan or serve with onion sauce. Or, dip the pieces in beaten egg, then roll in cracker crumbs and immerse in lard, or half lard and beef drippings, or American cooking oil, as fritters, and fry brown. Garnish with slices of lemon alternated with green leaves. Some prefer to thus soak and parboil rabbits before roasting, thinking it gives a more delicate flavor. Potted Rabbit. — Cut one large rabbit or two small ones in pieces and put it in a stone jar ; cut one pound each veal and bacon in large dice, mix and add livers and a teaspoon mace, cloves, and black pepper, and a teaspoon salt, and fill the spaces between the pieces of rabbit. Lay a thin slice or two of bacon on top and one bay leaf, then cover with a lid of plain paste made of flour and water only, set the jar in a pan or pot containing water and bake in a slow oven three or four Hours. There is no water needed in the meat. A greased paper on top will keep the paste from burning. When 24 370 GAME. done, set the jar away to become cold, then pick meat from pieces of rabbit and pound to a paste with veal and bacon and fat, and if any gravy at the bottom, boil down almost dry and mix it in. Sea- son to taste. Press solid into small jars or cups, and cover the top with the clear part of melted butter. Keep tightly covered in a cool place. For Sandwiches of Potted Rabiit, make baking powder or buttermilk biscuits large in diameter, but thin and flaky, split them, spread one half with butter, the other with potted rabbit and place them together again. Roast RdUbit. — Rub inside with pepper and salt and fill with a dressing made of bread-crumbs, chopped salt pork, thyme, onion, and pepper and salt, sew up, rub over with a little butter, or pin on it with wooden toothpicks a few slices of salt pork, add a little water in the pan, and baste often, or roast without a dressing ; and some, larding as above, pour boiling water into bottom of pan, cover with another pan of equal size, letting rabbit steam half an hour; then take off cover, baste with a little butter, and let brown. Serve with mashed potatoes and currant jelly, and always serve a nice pickle with any dish of rabbit. Roast Reed Birds. — Roasting by suspending on the little wire which accompanies the roaster, is the best method ; turn and biiste frequently ; they are often roasted with a very thin slice of salt pork fastened round each with skewer ; serve on toast with the drippings from the pan poured over. An oyster rolled in bread-crunabs and well seasoned with pepper and salt may be placed in each bird be- fore roasting. For Baked Reed Birds, wash and peel with as thin a paring as possible large potatoes of equal size, cut a deep slice off one end of each, and scoop out a part of the potatoes ; drop a piece of butter into each bird, pepper and salt, and put it in the hollows made in the potatoes; put on as covers the pieces cut off, and clip the other end for them to stand on ; tie ihem with twine and set in a baking pan upright, with a lit- tle water to prevent burning, bake slowly and when done remove the twine and tie instead with cord, tape or ribbon and send to table on a napkin. Or bake in a dripping-pan' with plenty of butter, turning to brown both sides. They may also be boiled in crust like dumplings. Roast Snipe. — Snipe are best roasted with a piece of pork tied to the breast and placed before an open fire ; or rub with butter and put in pan on trivet or muffin rings without water and cook half an hour, or they may be stuffed and baked. In either case serve on^ toast. Or run them on skewers alternately with thin slices of bacon or small sausages, and roast as above ; when done season with salt and pepper, and serve hot at once on the skewers; toast can, be served with them. This is a nice way for all small birds. Serve on toast. GAME. 371 Stewed Squirrel. — Skin as rabbits (see recipe) and cut in pieces, discarding the head ; lay them in cold water ; put a large tablespoon lard in a stewpan, with an onion sliced, and a tablespoon of flour ; let fry until the flour is brown, then put in a pint of water the squirrel seasoned with salt and pepper, and cook until tender' When half done put in strips of nice puff-paste and a little butter* Roast Teal. — Choose fat plump birds, after frost has set in, as they are generally better flavored. Skin, draw, and roast in oven in a little butter and water if needed ; serve with a brown or orange gravy and garnish with sliced lemon. For Fried Teal, cut up, fry in pan, turning to brown both sides, and when done add season- ing and half cup- currant jelly ; stir teal about in the jelly and serve on slices of toast with the jelly turned over each piece. Fried Grouse is prepared in same way, some using only the breast, and also Fried Duck. The jelly dressing may be omitted, serving with a teaspoon cold currant jelly on each piece instead. Broiled Venison. — Cut thin slices from the loin or take cutlets from the leg, season with pepper and salt and broil quickly on but- tered gridiron. Or bread the slices before broiling-. Dish on hot platter with bit of butter under each and serve with a gravy sauce or a dish of currant jelly, and for vegetables baked potatoes and stewed mushrooms. Fried Venison. — Take slices from the loin or leg and place in -frying-pan which has been covered to depth of half an inch with butter made smoking hot, and quickly brown both sides ; season with pepper and salt and put in two tablespoons jelly to each pound venison. Slices an inch thick should cook twenty minutes. Serve hot with the gravy from pan poured over. It may be fried without the jelly but is much nicer with it. Mashed Venison. — Remove the bones from cold venison, and mince it fine ; to a pint of minced venison allow two tablespoons each butter and currant jelly ; heat them together, season the mince palatably with salt and pepper, and serve on toast, very hot. Veni- son Fatties is another good way to utilize bits of cold venison ; chop fine, heat with some of the gravy left from dinner, season with pep- per and salt, then fill patty-pans with the venison and cover the top with crust ; bake until crust is done brown. Boast Venison. — The haunch, the leg, and the saddle of veni- son, which is the double loin, are best for roasting or baking. Wash in warm water and dry well with a cloth, season with salt and pep- per, and wrap in several sheets of buttered paper or cover with a coarse paste made of flour and water, though some use both paper and paste, first putting a sheet of white paper, buttered, over the fat, then spjread with the paste, half an inch thick, and over this put a 372 GAME. sheet or two of strong paper, binding the whole firmly on with twine ; then either put it before the fire on a spit, or place in a drip- ping-pan in very hot oven, and cook about fifteen minutes to the pound if desired medium rare. If roasted before the fire baste con- stantly while cooking and in either case, about twenty minutes before it is done, quicken the fire, carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge with flour, and baste well with butter until it is nicely frothed, and of a pale brown color ; if a haunch, garnish the knuckle- bone with a frill of white paper, and serve with an unflavored gravy made from the drippings in a tureen, and currant jelly or jelly and mustard sauce. As the principal ' iiiiiil'fiiiii object in roasting venison is to fi^^^^J^^^^^^^^j^f^ best mode of doing so where ex- iffl|iH|lli|p^^'^^^^^^^^^ai ordinary cases the paste may be Roast Hauaoh of \ eni»on. dispensed with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead ; it will not require so long cooking without the paste. Send to table on a hot platter, or better on a hot-water platter as illustrated, and serve on hot plates, as the venison fat so soon cools ; to be thoroughly enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The neck and shoulder may be roasted in same manner. Some wash the venison in lukewarm vinegar and water before roasting and rub well with butter or lard to soften the skin, while others remove the dry outer skin entirely, and think it better to tie on the papers and paste the day before wanted. One mode of baking is to place in dripping-pan with boiling water in the bottom, invert another pan over it to keep in the steam, and let it cook thus an hour with a good fire ; wet all over with hot water, cover again and bake an hour and a half longer ; then remove papers and paste, let brown half an hour, basting every five minutes, and finish by dredging with flour and butter to make a froth. Or bake in dripping-pan simply covered with the paste, basting every ten minutes with the hot water or gravy from the pan, removing the paste half an hour before done, and finish as above. Take up on a hot dish, skim the gravy left in dripping-pan, strain, thicken with browned flour, add two teaspoons currant jelly, and pepper and salt. Boil for an in- stant, and serve in a gravy-boat. Or a very nice gravy is made thus : Pour all the fa:t from the baking pan, and put in the pan a cup boiling water. Stir from the sides and bottom and set back where it will keep hot. Put a tablespoon butter in a small frying- pan with, small slice of onion, six pepper-corns and four whole cloves. Cook until the onion is browned, add a heaping teaspoon flour, and stir until browned ; then gradually add the gravy in the pan ; boil one minute, strain, and add a half teaspoon lemon juice and three tablespoons currant jelly. Serve both venison and gravy very hot. Or after the venison has been put in the oven chop all bits trimmed GAME. 373 from it, and put over the fire, with any venison bones available, or use beef bones ; cover with boiling water, season with salt and pep- per, add ten whole cloves or about quarter of small nutmeg, and simmer gently while venison is baking, taking care to keep covered with water. Take up the venison when done and keep very hot- while gravy is made as follows : Set the baking-pan over the fire, stir into it a heaping tablespoon flour, and brown it, then strain into it the liquid from the bones, season with salt and pepper and stir in as much currant jelly as liked. To bake Venison a la Mode, re- move the bone from the haunch, and make a large quantity of force- meat, or stuffing of bread-crumbs, bits of pork, an onion minced tine, a small piece of celery, or celery-seed, parsley, and sage. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Press in the stuffing till the hole left by the bone is filled. Sew up the opening and sprekd over it nice lard, sprinkling with pepper and salt, or bake as above, in a paste, until wpU done. Serve with either of the gravies given. Stewed Venison. — Use the neck, shoulder, inferior part of the leg or the backbone with the layer of tender meat each side, for a stew; cut into several pieces, and put in a stewpan -with just water or stock enough to cover it ; add a grated onion, bunch sweet herbs, salt, black pepper, and part of a red pepper pod. Simmer gently from three and a half to four hours, and if it becomes rather dry add boiling water ; it is well to stew with it some slices of fat mutton ; just before serving thicken with flour rubbed smooth in an ounce of butter^ Serve with red currant jelly. Another way is to put the venison in a saucepan in which butter enough to cover half an inch in depth has been made smoking hot. Brown the venison in this and stir with it a tablespoon flour for each pound ; when the flour is browned cover the venison with boiling water, add a teaspoon currant "jelly for each pound, and season with salt and pepper. Cover closely and stew half an hour, or until tender ; serve hot with the sauce in which it has been cooked poured over. For a stew from the remains of roast, cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and if there is sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is preferable to any other. Should there not be enough, put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of any good gravy or stock ; stew gently for an hour, and strain gravy. Put a little flour and butter into stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add strained gravy, and let boil, skim and strain again, and when a little cool put in the slices of venison. Place stewpan on back of stove and when on the point of simmering, serve ; do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Boast Woodcock. — Put an onion, salt and hot water into a drip ping-pan with the birds and baste for ten or fifteen minutes ; then change pan ; put in a slice of salt pork and baste with butter and. pork drippings very often ; just before serving dredge lightly with 374 GAME. flour and baste. Or fill with a rich forcemeat of bread-crumbs, pep- per, salt, and melted butter ; sew up and roast, basting with butter and water, from twenty minutes to half an hour. When half done, put circular slices of buttered toast underneath to catch the juice, and serve on these when taken up. Boast Snipe and other small birds same way. Fried Woodcock. — Dress, wipe clean, tie the legs close to the ■ body ; skin the head and neck, turn the beak under the wing and tie it ; fasten a very thin piece of bacon around the breast of each bird, immerse in hot fat for two or three minutes. Season and serve on buttered toast. Some pier.ce the legs with the beak of the bird, as illustrated. Fried Snipe is prepared in same way. ^'''"' 'w'""*™*- Broiled Woodcock is a favorite dish. Split them down the back and broil, basting with butter, and serve on toast. Bird Compote. — Prepare as for roasting and fill each with a dressing made as follows : Allow for each bird the size of a pigeon one half a hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, a tablespoon bread-crumbs, a teaspoon chopped pork ; first season the birds with pepper and salt, then stuff and lay them in a kettle that has a tight cover. Place over the birds a few slices of pork, add a pint water for twelve birds, dredge over them a little flour, cover, and put them in a hot oven. Let them cook until tender, then add a little cream and. butter. If sauce is too thin thicken with a little flour. Potted Oame. — Take any cooked remains of game and pound well together, having previously removed all skin and bone. Add to the paste pounded mace, allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, pepper, and a lum^p of sugar pounded, Any remains of ham maj' be in- cluid-ed with the game, and should be of an equal quantity. "Rub the paste through a wire sieve. If no ham be added use an equal amount of butter. Mix it well again, and place in pots or jars, cov- ered with either clarified butter or lard. When required for use, dish on an aspic jelly and garnish with fresh parsley. Puree of Game and Bice. — This is a pretty and economical dish, coming under the head of secondary cookery. Take the re- mains of any kind of roast or boiled game, put into a stewpan with a gill of water, stick of celery, a little thyme, and an onion. SSoil gently together. Mince meat, and pound in a mortar with a small bit of butter, and a spoonful gravy from the bones. This should be in a state of pulp ; rub through a hair seive, put in stewpan with stock from bones, which ought to be reduced to less than a gill in quantity. Add a gill cream, a sprinkling merely of pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a teaspoon flour ; dish with rice, potato croquettes, poached eggs, and thin narrow strips of bacon as a garnish, or with merely the rice and tufts of parsley. r,VME^ 375 Spanish Stew. — Use hare, rabbit, chicken, partridge or pheas- ants, put up, wipe with damp towel and save the giblets. Put the pieces in a pan with sweet oil and onion sliced and fried brown. Add some chopped ham and sweet herbs, season with cayennne pep- per, and sufficient beef broth to cover well ; add the giblets, let sim- mer, skim off the grease, stir meat from the bottom, and when done add the juice of two oranges. Serve hot in covered dish. Western Pie. — Pluck and skin blackbirds or small birds of any, kind, enough to fill a baking-dish of medium size, cut off heads and feet, except leaving feet on half a dozen for upper row ; draw them without breaking entrails, put birds into saucepan, with enough boil- ing water to cover, tablespoon each butter and flour rubbed to a smooth paste to each dozen birds, and a palatable seasoning of pepper and salt, and let stew gently until tender. For every dozen small birds boil three eggs hard, remove shells, and cut eggs in halves and while birds are stewing, make Western Pie a ulce crust as directed in Pastry, line a bak- ing dish and partly bake it ; when birds are tender put them in it, together with the hard boiled eggs, pour in as much of the gravy used in stewing the birds as the dish will hold, put on a cover of pastry, brush the top with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven, until upper crust is done. If any gravy remains after filling pie, keep hot and serve with it. Blackbirds skinned, parboiled, and fried or broiled and. served on toast are delicious. Washington Roast. — Have a pair of young wild ducks careful- ly skinned and cleaned, wipe inside and out with a wet towel and stuff with potatoes, boiled until tender, mashed as if for table, and seasoned with teaspoon grated onion, pepper, salt, teaspoon powder- ed herbs and two heaping tablespoons butter, or a dressing made with milk or cream may be used, or do not stuff at all'. Sew up the ducks, truss them, put in baking pan, set in hot oven and as soon as lightly browned dredge them well with flour and baste with drip- pings in pan, or with butter. Bake half an hour, basting two or three times. Serve with Giblet Gravy. Or make an Orange Sauce by scraping tablespoon each fat bacon and onions and fry them togeth- er five minutes, then add juice of an orange and tablespoon currant jelly. Skim off all fat from baking pan, put in above mixture, and a little thickening if necessary, boil up and serve. Epicures prefer this method to that of first parboiling the ducks. For Stewed Ducks have them nicely picked ; stuff with bread and butter flavored with onions, pepper, and a few celery-seeds ; flour them, then brown in lard in frying pan ; put in a few slices of ham in iron stew-pot chopped onions, water, pepper, and salt, with a few blades of mace ; add ducks and let them stew gently but constantly for two or three hours ; flour them each time they are turned in pot ; thicken gravy with butter rolled in flour, and serve hot. 376 GRIDDLE CAKES. GRIDDLE CAKES. Griddle-cakes should be well beaten when first made, and cakes in which eggs are used are much Ughter when the eggs are separated, whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites beaten to a stiff froth just before baking. All griddle-cakes are much nicer mixed and kept overnight, to allow the flour to swell, stirring in the whites of eggs and soda or baking powder, when used, just before baking. Cakes are much more easily, quickly and neatly baked if made in a vessel with a spout from which the batter may be poured, and one can be provided for this purpose. Have the griddle clean, and if the cakes stick sprinkle on salt and rub with a coarse cloth before greasing. The neatest way to grease a griddle is with a large piece of ham or pork rind kept for this purpose, and some use a thick slice of turnip. Many prefer griddles made of soap-stone, which need no greasing — grease spoils them — ^but they need to be very hot. They are more costly and more easily broken than iron, and with care cakes may be baked on an iron griddle without greasing, if it is he^t polished, and rubbed well with a cloth after every baking. The artificial stone griddle illustrated is a new article, light and durable, equally as good as the soap-stone, doing away with all grease and smoke and much cheaper. Whether greased or not, iron griddles, if Ariwoioi stone oriddio. propcrly Cared for, need washing but seldom. Immediately after use they should be carefully wiped and put away out of the dust, never to be used for any other pur- GRIDDLE OAKES. 377 pose. Do not turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking, as it makes them heavy ; this rule should never be departed from, save in making fruit cakes, when it is necessary to turn them quickly to form a crust to confine the juice of the berries, and again to cook them thoroughly ; serve all cakes the same side up as when taken from griddle. The cake lifter illustrated is almost indispensable in turning cakes smoothly and evenly and the cake Litter, cost of it is small. Buckwheat cakes are highly esteemed for win- ter breakfast, but are very properly never, or rarely, served in sum- mer, as the chief value of buckwheat as a food is its heat produc- ing properties. In making batter, bread or corn meal cakes, either sour milk or buttermilk may be used with soda; or sweet milk or water with baking powder, as convenient, using same proportion of other in- gredients, and remember that one heaping teaspoon baking powder possesses the same rising properties as one level teaspoon soda. A greater proportion of either of the rising powders is necessary with buckwheat, Graham and corn meal than with flour. Batter Calces. — Make a batter of one quart each flour and sour milk, and let stand overnight. In the morning add. three eggs beaten separately, a tablespoon butter, and two level teaspoons soda. Pulverize the soda very jine before measuring, then thor- oughly mix with the flour. Add whites of eggs just before baking on the griddle. For Corn Calces use two-thirds corn meal and one- third flour. Sweet milk or water may be used with two heaping teaspoons baking powder thoroughly mixed with the flour. These may also be made without eggs, and some prefer to sweeten them, using either molasses or sugar to taste. Buttermilk may be used instead of sour milk. For Raised Batter Calces take three eggs, one teaspoon sugar, one coffee-cup each sweet milk and warm water, four tablespoons potato yeast, flour enough to make a stifi batter ; beat yolks and sugar well, stir in milk, water and yeast, aiiid lastly flour, stir well, and set in warm place to rise ; when light, beat whites to a stiff froth, and stir into batter with a pinch of salt. Very nice for breakfast if set the night before. For Tomato Cakes, slice large, solid ripe tomatoes, cover with the batter without yeast and fry on a griddle ; season with pepper and salt while frying. Bread Cakes. — Soak stale bits of bread overnight in sour milk ; in the morning rub through a sieve or colander, and to one quart add yolks of two eggs, one teaspoon each salt and soda, two table- 378 GRIDDLE CAKES. spoons sugar, and flour enough to make a batter a little thicker than for buckwheat cakes ; add last the well-beaten whites of eggs, and bake. Or for Bread Calces with Corn Meal, soak bread-crumbs overnight in one quart sour milk, rub as above, and add four well- beaten eggs, two teaspoons soda dissolved in a little water, one table- spoon melted butter, and enough corn meal to make the consistency of ordinary griddle-cakes. It is better to beat yolks and whites separately, stirring the whites in just before baking. Either sweet milk or water may be used, with two heaping teaspoons baking powder, instead of sour milk and soda. And if wanted to bake im- niediately, pour enough hot water over the bread to moisten it well, then put through a colander and add other ingredients as above, with, if necessary, a little sweet milk, sour milk or buttermilk, as liked, to give the proper consistency. Some add a little shortening of butter or cream. To make Raised Bread Cakes, Soak the bread in enough cold milk to make it very soft, almost liquid ; then beat it to a smooth batter over the fire and let it get scalding hot ; cool a little, and to each quart soaked bread stir in one tablespoon yeast, two well-beaten eggs, level teaspoon salt, and enough flour to form a batter that .will hold a drop let fall from the spoon. Cover it with folded towel and let rise overnight, if the cakes are intended for breakfast, or five hours, if to be used at noon or evening. Buckwheat Cakes. — Buckwheat flour, when properly ground, is perfectly free from grits. The grain should be run through the smut- ter with a strong blast before grinding, and the greatest care taken through the whole process. Adulteration with rye or corn cheapens the flour, but injures the quality. The pure buckwheat is best, and is unsurpassed for griddle-cakes. To make batter, warm one pint sweet milk and one pint water (one may be cold and the other boil- ing) ; put half this mixture in a stone crock, add five teacups buck- wheat flour, beat well until smooth, add rest of milk and water, teaspoon salt, and last a teacup yeast. Or, same ingredients and pro- portions may be used except adding two tablespoons molasses or sugar, which makes them brown nicely, and using one quart .v^ater instead one pint each milk and water. Some like also to shorten them with two tablespoons melted lard. Or, another rule, sift one quart buckwheat flour and add a cup scalded corn meal, tablespoon sugar and teaspoon salt. Stir in a half cup yer.st and mix to a good iSatter with lukewarm water. Set to rise in a warm nlace overnight and before baking in the morning, thin if necessary with warm water, and if it is even the least bit sour add a half teaspoon soda, but take out a cup of the batter, before adding the soda, to serve as a rising for the next baking and put away in a cool place. If this is done every morning, fresh yeast will not be necessary for several days; some who bake cakes every morning use no other yeast all winter and think them better raised thus. Some never stir buck- wheat cakes after they have risen, but take them out carefuUy with GEIDDLE CAKES. 379 a large spoon, placing the spoon when emptied in a saucer, and not back again in the batter, w heat flour is used by many instead of corn meal, and it is recommended by some that oats be ground with buckwheat, one-third oats to two-thirds buckwheat. Some good housekeepers in the country who make salt-rising bread and thus do not keep a supply of yeast constantly on hand may be glad when buckwheat cake time comes, of a recipe for mak- ing T^east without Yeast : Take a tablespoon and a half each New Orleans molasses and warm water, stir in enough flour for a thin batter and set in a warm place. It will soon begin to throw up bub- bles and in a short time ferment. While waiting for this, make ready for it by boiling a teacup of hops in two quarts water twenty minutes ; strain and stir in a pint flour and tablespoon salt, beating until free from lumps. Put over the fire and boil again until of the consistency of good starch; if too thick, thin with boiling water. Turn into a bowl, cpver, and let stand till lukewarm and stir in the rising of molasses, etc. Set where it will be kept warm, but not hot, until light, when place in a jug, cork tight, and put away in a cool place. The following recipe is considered by some especially nice for buckwheat cakes : Catnip Yeast. — Pare and boil six medium-sized potatoes ; tie in a clean white cloth one handful cat- nip (fresh or dry) and boil with potatoes ; when they are thoroughly cooked take out catnip, mash potatoes with a fork and if not smooth put through a colander or sieve ; add a half teaspoon ginger, hand- ful sugar, teaspoon salt, and water in which potatoes were cooked to make about two quarts, cool to blood-heat, add half pint yeast. Set in a warm place to rise. It will rise rather slowly in making, but will raise cakes, bread, etc., quicker than hop yeast. The advantage of catnip over hops is that more yeast can be used in cold weather, as is always necessary, without danger of giving a bitter taste. buckwheat Cakes. — To make buckwheat cakes without yeast, mix overnight with warm water, a little salt, and tablespoon molas- ses, one pint buckwheat flour, to the usual consistency of griddle- cakes. When ready to bake for breakfast add two teaspoons bak- ing powder, thinning the batter if necessary, and bake immediately on a hot griddle. Or for Quick buckwheats, take one pint sour milk or buttermilk, teaspoon soda, tablespoon baking molasses, or a little sugar ; thicken with buckwheat flour to the consistency of batter-cakes. Water may be used, or sweet milk and baking pow- der, but the cakes will not be as tender. Bake on a hot griddle. Cerealine Cakes. — Sift three-fourths cup flour, teaspoon baking powder and pinch of salt togetjier, add three well-beaten eggs, table- spoon sugar and a cup cereahne, and stir in a pint milk. Bake as usual on a griddle, or in a buttered round frying-pan, putting in enough batter each time to make a cake covering half bottom of pan, turn to brown both sides, butter each cake, .roll up separately. 380 GBIDDLE CAKES. sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. Or take half pound boiled cerealine, three tablespoons sugar, two and one- half cups flour, one and one-half teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, teaspoon salt and three-fourths pint milk. Bake on griddle. ' cereauue caie>. ' Clam, Cakes. — Sift two heaping teaspoons baking powder with a quart flour and make a batter with one pint milk and one T)int liquor from canned clams, adding a tablespoon syrup, little salt, four tablespoons melted butter, and well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Stir in two two-pound cans of chopped clams and bake as other griddle cakes. Corn Cakes. — One pint corn meal, one of sour milk or butter- milk, one egg, one teaspoon soda, one of salt. A tablespoon flour or half tablespoon corn starch may be used in place of the egg ; bake on a griddle. The scalding of corn meal takes away the raw taste and cakes made as follows will be much more delicious : One pint corn meal, one teaspoon salt, small teaspoon soda ; pour on boiling water until a little thinner than mush ; let stand until cool ; add yolks of four eggs, half cup flour, in which is mixed two teaspoons cream tartar, and stir in as much sweet milk or water as will make the batter suitable to bake ; beat the whites well and add just before baking. Or pour three cups boiling milk gradually over one cup corn meal, stirring to avoid lumps ; sift one teaspoon salt, one of baking powder and two tablespoons sugar with one cup flour and add when scalded milk is cool ; then stir in two well-beaten eggs. A tablespoon cream or a little butter may be added, and some scald the milk, pour over meal, stirring in the butter and sugar and let stand overnight, adding other ingredients in the morning. To make Raised Corn Cakes, scald a quart corn meal, cool with cold water so as not to scald the yeast, add two tablespoons yeast, one of flour, and salt to taste. Let stand overnight, and in the morning add two well-beaten eggs. Farina Cakes. — Scald four tablespoons farina at night with a pint boiling water. In the morning thin with one quart milk stirred in slowly to avoid lumps, and add two well-beaten eggs, one table- spoon melted butter, salt to taste and enough flour to make a good batter. Add a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two, heap- ing, of baking powder. Flannel Cakes. — Make hot a pint of sweet milk, and into it put two heaping tablespoons butter, let melt, then add a pint of cold milk, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs — placing the whites in a cold glace — a teaspoon salt, four tablespoons potato yeast, and sufficient our to make a stiff batter ; set in a warm place to rise, let stand three hours or overnight ; before baking add the beaten whites ; fry like any other griddle-cakes. Be sure to make batter just stifi"enough; GRIDDLE CAKES. 381 for flour must not be added in the morning unless it is allowed to rise again. Or take one cup corn meal, two of flour, three of boil- ing milk, one-fourth yeast cake dissolved in four tablespoons cold water, or one-fourth cup liquid yeast, one teaspoon salt, one table- spoon sugar, two of butter. Heat the milk to boiling and pour it over the meal and butter. When cool, add the other ingredients and let rise overnight and bake on griddle. French Pancakes. — Beat together till smooth yolks of six eggs and a half pound of flour, melt four tablespoons butter and add to batter, with one of sugar and a half pint milk, and beat until smooth. A little grated lemon peel may be added if wished. Put a large tablespoon at a time into small hot frying-pan about five inches in diameter, slightly greased, spread batter evenly over surface of pan by tipping it about, fry to light brown on one side — about four min- utes — then sprinkle sugar over or spread with jelly, jam or preserves, roll up in pan, take out carefully without breaking and set where it will keep hot while others are fried, sending to table as hot and as quickly as possible, dusting with sugar just before serving. By make- ing cakes thin they will not need turning, which is difiicult to do when cakes are large. For Plain French CaJces, make as much batter as will be required, allowing one egg and a quarter saltspoon salt to four heaping tablespoons flour and a half pint milk. Beat yolks of eggs, add other ingredients, beating thoroughly, and stir in well- whipped whites, bake and roll as above. Fruit Calces. — Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one teaspoon salt, two of baking powder, one tablespoon brown sugar ; add two well-beaten eggs, a pint oi milk and a half pint blueberries, blackberries or raspberries. Have the griddle hot enough to form a crust as soon as the batter touches it, turn quickly to form a crust on the other side to confine the juices of the berries ; turn again on each side to bake thoroughly. Oluten Cakes. — One pint sour milk, level teaspoon soda; tTiicken with gluten or entire wheat flour as for batter cakes ; one or two eggs may be added, and sweet milk and baking powder may be used in place of sour milk and soda. These are as nice as buck- wheat cakes and more wholesome. Graham Cakes. — One cup each sour cream and tepid water, two eggs, the best Graham flour (unsifted) to make a thin battea-, and scant level teaspoon soda dissolved: in the tepid water. The water must not be too hot, or the cakes will be greasy and soggy. Bake slowly on not too hot a griddle. Or take one quart sifted Graham flour, teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, and milk or water enough to make thin batter. Or, if a mixture is preferred, take one pint sifted Graham flour, half pint each corn meal and flour, or half Graham and half corn meal, heaping teaspoon sugar, half teaspoon 382 GHIDDLE CAKES. salt, one egg, pint buttermilk, teaspoon soda. Another excellent recipe requires two cups Graham flour, one of flour, two and a half of milk, one tablespoon sugar, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, two eggs. Boil half the milk, pour it on the Graham and stir until smooth ; add the cold milk, and set away to cool ; mix the other ingredients with the flour and rub through a sieve, and add with the eggs, well beaten, to the Graham and milk. Rye Cakes made the same. What is known as "Number One" Graham flour does not need to be sifted. Green Corn Cakes. — To one quart grated corn (raw) add yolks of three eggs, cup sweet cream (milk maybe used, adding table- spoon butter), one cup flour, the well-beaten whites, teaspoon bak- ing powder^, bake on griddle and serve hot. Some use a handful fresh bread-crumbs and not so much flour. Horrmhy Cakes. — Beat a large tablespoon butter into two cups soft boiled hominy, add a tablespoon white sugar, little salt and three well-beaten eggs, beating all well together; then stir in a quart milk and a cup flour with two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Or take half hominy and half flour, and water may be used instead of milk. Rice Cakes made same. Bake very qtiickly. Oat Meal Cakes. — One cup each cooked oat meal and flour, one egg, one teaspoon each sugar and baking powder and half teaspoon salt, mixed with enough cold water to make a nice batter. Beat all well together and bake on griddle. Potato Cakes — Six boiled potatoes cooled and mashed through a colander (cold potatoes maybe used), two eggs, three tablespoons flour, sweet milk to make rather stiff batter, salt, and a little pepper if liked. Fry on griddle. Nice with butter, syrup or jam. Y or Grated Potato Cakes, after peeling and washing potatoes, wipe dry, grate quickly and to each cup grated potato allow one egg, and heaping tablespoon flour. Beat potato and egg thoroughly flve minutes, add flour and teaspoon salt. Have tablespoon drippings or lard in frying-pan, put in batter to cover bottom half inch thick, and there mUst be enough fat to show around the edge of cake. When brown turn and brown the other side. Place in oven on plate and bake a second one, adding more fat to pan if necessary, then a third, etc., till all are baked., Place in layers and serve at table cut as jelly cake, only larger slices. Make in the proportion of one grated po- tato to each person. These are nice for breakfast or tea and with potato slaw, cake or fruit and a cup tea, cofiee or chocolate, one has almost a "company tea." Rye Cakes. — Warm a quart new milk, beat two eggs very light, and add gradually with sufficient rye meal to make a moderate bat- ter, putting in the meal a handful at a time ; add a saltspoon salt GRIDDLE CAKES. 383 and large tablespoon any fresh yeast. Beat very light and put in a warm place to rise. Bake on hot griddle and eat with butter, molasses, or honey. Corn Cakes may be made after this recipe, or use rye and corn in equal proportions. Rice Cakes. — Boil half a cup rice ; when cold mix one quart sweet milk, the yolks of four eggs, and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter ; beat the whites to a froth, stir in one ^^:^^^^^Ss#) teaspoon soda, and two of cream tartar ; add a lit- ^S^^^^^^^m tie salt, and lastly the whites of eggs ; bake on a ^^^Scj^^^y griddle. A nice way to serve is to spread them Kics cakcs. while hot with butter, and almost any kind of preserves or jelly ; roll them up neatly, cut off the ends, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve immediately. Or boil until soft a half pound rice, drain off water, mash well, stir in butter size of an egg, and when cold add six eggs beaten very light, pint flour, and quart lukewarm milk. Beat all well together, and bake on a hot griddle. Squash Cakes. — One cup cooked and sifted squash, two eggs, one and a half pints milk, little salt, flour to make good batter, and two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Or take one pint flour, scant pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half as much soda, four tablespoons sugar, two cups sifted squash. Mix the flour with the other dry ingredients, and rub through a sieve ; add beaten eggs and milk to the squash, and pour on the flour. Beat till smooth and light and bake on griddle. Or take a half pint cold stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colander ; mix with two well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. Sift together half pint each Graham flour and corn meal, half teaspoon salt, heaping tea- spoon baking powder. Mix all smoothly and thoroughly into a bat- ter and bake quickly on hot griddle. 384 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. ICES AND ICE-CREAM. Perfectly fresh sweet cream makes the most delicious ice-cream, and what we term double cream, standing twenty-four hours, is best. This sweetened and flavored gives the justly renowned Philadelphia lee-cream, having a cream-white tint and a full rich flavor. It is made either of cooked or uncooked cream ; the latter gives a light snowy texture, greatly increased in quantity but not as fine in quality as if the cream is cooked, by placing in a custard kettle, stir- ring often till water in outer pan boils, then adding sugar, taking off fire, flavoring, letting stand a moment, straining, cooling and freez- ing as directed hereafter. This gives a cream of greater body and richness and prevents any tendency to curdling if cream should ac- cidentally not be perfectly fresh, caused by very hot sultry weather, or a passing thunder-storm. This is made more delicious, adding light- ness to the richness, by reserving a part of cream, whipping it and adding when cream is half frozen, beating it well in with a wooden paddle ; and less flavoring is needed, a quarter less at least, if it is added to the whipped cream, as freezing diminishes the strength of flavoring ; consequently, when added before freezing, the cream must be over-flavored. Freezing also lessens the strength of the sugar, so if the cream preparation is sweetened to taste, one must also over- sweeten. For whipped cream some let single cream stand twelve hours after skimming, and then skim off the richer portion, thus obtaining the "cream of the cream." It will be so rich that it can all be whipped to a stifi" froth without any remainder. This is the true double-cream. When eggs are added to the cream before freezing, making a custard, it is known as Neapolitan Ice-cream, and as it contains a ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 885 large proportion of eggs, yields an ice as solid, rich and smooth as the finest butter, and has a pronounced custard flavor, and lemon-yel- low color. It is prepared as follows : Strain and beat yolks of eggs to a smooth cream, add sugar and beat again. Strain and whisk the whites to a froth as stiff as possible, stir briskly into the yolks and sugar, and mix with the cream. Cook in a custard kettle or a pail set within a kettle of boiling water over a brisk fire, stirring con- stantly, until it slightly coats a knife blade dipped into it, and does not run. Be careful not to let it curdle. Take off fire, strain through a wire sieve (or a linen crash towel kept for the purpose and marked "Ice Cream,") into a crock or pan, cover with gauze, and let stand till cool, then freeze. It is well to reserve some of the cream and whip and add as above. These two creams are made of the pure cream ; when made of part new milk and cream it is called Lac- teanola Ice-cream and is made either with or without eggs : With JEggs, by boiling the new milk, reserving a part of it, in custard ket- tle and adding beaten yolks of eggs mixed with the reserved milk and stirred slowly into the hot milk ; let cook two or three min- utes, add sugar and in few moments take from fire and strain while hot, as above ; cool, add double cream and flavoring, or add only part of the cream. Set custard in a cool place and when ready to freeze add well-frothed whites, and whe|Li half frozen, the reserved cream, whipped. Or Without Eggs, by boiling the milk, as above, and adding a rounded tablespoon flour (if cream to be added is very thick, use less), or a little less of corn-starch or arrowroot, to every quart milk, mixed smoothly with a part of the milk ; let cook fifteen minutes, then add sugar and cook five minutes, stirring all the time ; remove from fire, strain and put in a cool place ; when cold and ready to freeze add part of the cream and all the flavoring, and when, half frozen, the rest of the cream, whipped; or after straining, let cool and then freeze and when half frozen add all the cream, whipped, and with it the flavoring as directed above. If cream does not whip easily add beaten white of an egg. Sugar is not added to the whipped cream. In any of the methods the mixture should be placed in a bed of ice to cool so that it may be ice-cold when put in freezer, as it will then freeze easier, quicker and smoother and require less ice. It is also well when poured in can to let stand five or ten minutes before freezing as it will then surely be thoroughly chilled, as the salt with the ice niakes a more intense 386 ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. cold. When eggs are used, strain through a sieve — they beat easier and smoother for it; if yolks and whites are to be beaten separately, strain each before beating. Fruit loe-Greams, when of berries, are made in proportion of a quart cream, a quart fruit and a pound sugar, allowing the berries to stand for awhile well sprinkled with part of the sugar, mashing, straining the juice, adding the rest of sugar to it, and stirring till a clear syrup, and then adding to the ice-cold mixture just before commencing to freeze, or beating into it after it is frozen, which is the better way. In the latter case use in preparing the cream or custard, half the sugar to be used in recipe and mix the rest with the fruit juice and stir in when frozen. If the fruitis preferred in the cream, cut into dice the firm-fleshed fruits such as the pine-apple, apricot, peach and plum, mix lightly with halt the sugar and when it is dissolved mix with frozen cream ; for strawberries and raspberries, mash or chop gently, add sugar and mix with the frozen cream. In addition to this, add whipped cream and sweetened whole berries just as the cream is ready to serve, in the propor- tion of a cup berries and a joint of whipped cream to three pints of the frozen mixture. Canned berries may be used in the same way. Or a pint mashed berries or peaches, cut fine, added to a quart ordinary ice-cream, when frozen makes a delicious Fruit Ice-cream. In either case, with juice or fruit, let stand in freezer till ready to serve, or put in molds and pack as directed hereafter. In flavoring with vanilla the vanilla bean may be used by split- ting in two, cutting in pieces and cooking in the milk ; the flavor- ing for Almond Cream should be prepared by blanching and pound- ing the kernels to a paste with rose water, using arrowroot for thick- ening. Always use the Princesse Almond. For Cocoa-nut Ice- cream, grate cocoa-nut and add to the cream and sugar just before freezing. The milk should never be heated for pine-apple, straw- berry, or raspberry cream. It is often desirable to be able to make ice-creams and water-ices of the summer fruits when they are out of season and at same time retain as much as possible of their ac- customed flavor and freshness, also to avail one's self of the finest fruits of the various kinds at the lowest rates obtainable in the height of the season, and for this purpose make plentifully of FruH Flavors, as given in Jams and Jellies. For making ice-cream use ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 387 either fine granulated sugar or white sifted sugar, except where cream or milk is not cooked, then use best pulverized sugar. Both the Lacteanola and Philadelphia, being eggless, are con- sidered better adapted to be used with fruit, as the eggs and fruit flavors are not thought to blend well, but this is a matter of taste. The eggless creams are more economical where one has plenty of cream, as each dozen eggs requires half pound sugar to sweeten them and each quart cream or milk half pound, also. Any propor- tion of eggs may be used to a quart of milk or cream, using sugar in quantity to correspond, viz : for three eggs, eighth pound sugar, making with the half pound sugar for milk, five-eighths pound sugar. A freezer — White Mountain, Peerless or any of the best patent freezers — a wooden paddle made of hickory, maple, ash or oak, a fine wire sieve or crash strainer, seem almost a necessity ii;! making ices and ice-creams, and there are also many other articles used which are given in Kitchen Utensils ; of course one can make th9m without so complete an outfit but the process is more tedious. Put ice in a coarse cofFee-sack, pound with an ax or mallet until some lumps are size of an egg and most of them as small-as a hickory-nut ; see that the freezer is properly set in tub, the beater in the socket, the cover secure, and a cloth in the hole and tin cup inverted over it, first hav- ing put on cross-piece, and turned the crank to see if everything is right ; now place around it a layer of ice three or four inches thick, then a thin layer of salt — rock salt pounded fine or the common coarse salt is best, some advise sea salt, but never use table salt, as it causes the ice to melt too rapidly — then ice again, then salt, and so on until packed full, with a layer of ice last. The propor- tion should be about three-fourths ice and one-fourth salt. Pack very solid, pounding with a broom-handle or stick, then remove the cover and pour in the ice-cold preparation, filling only two-thirds full, leaving room for expansion ; replace cover and after five or ten min- utes pack ice down again and begin to freeze, turning the crank slowly and steadily until rather difficult to turn ; open can, add whipped cream, beat in well with wooden paddle, cover, and again turn till difficult to turn longer ; some claim this last turning of eight or teix minutes should be as rapid as possible. Half an hour will freeze it, although the make of freezer and quality and quantity of creair. govern the time, pure cream taking the longest. Unless dan- 388 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. ger of water entering can, do not draw off while freezing as the in- tense cold of the water assists greatly in freezing. When done, brush ice and salt from and remove the cover, take out heater, scrape the cream down from the sides of freezer, beat well several minutes with a wooden paddle, replace the cover, fill the hole with a cork or a clean cloth and over this invert a tin cup, let off all the water, pack again with ice (using salt at bottom and between layers but none at top of tub), heap ice on the cover, spread over it a piece of carpet or a thick woolen blanket kept for this purpose, and set away in a cool place to harden two or three hours, or until needed. Some wet the blanket or carpet well with the icy brine that was drawn off and after an hour or two open the freezer, scrape down and beat cream again, and pack down with fresh ice and salt. In very warm weather it may be necessary to renew the ice and salt a second, or even a third time ; the only rule is that as often as the brine appears at the top, causing the ice to float, it must be drawn off, and the tub repacked. Keep the blanket wet with the brine; the evaporation causes intense cold, and helps to keep the ice from wasting, but when "brine blanket" is used cover top of freezer first with a drj^ blanket, then ice, etc. About twenty-five pounds ice is necessary for two or three gallons ice-cream in sumrner time, and the best is that which is por- ous and full of air cells, commonly called "snow ice." Snow itself is also an excellent freezing material and as it is often desirable to be able to make ices in the winter season, when there is no ice in the house, if there be snow upon the ground it makes an excellent substitute. It needs only to be packed down firmly in the freezing tub, and enough water added to make a thick mush ; then put in the salt, and freeze as usual. Large freezers require much less ice and salt, in proportion to their contents, than small ones ; for a gallon freezer use about ten pints pounded ice, and three of salt. If a larger proportion of salt is used than one-fourth, the cream will freeze sooner but will not be so smooth and rich, and some only take one-fifth salt. Do not let agrainof salt or a drop of hrineget into the cream. For evening use, cream should be cooked in the morning, cooled and frozen by mid-day. If wanted at the noon meal, cook previous evening, cool overnight, and freeze early next morning, or it may be cooked very early in morning. It needs several hours to harden and ripen ; newly frozen cream is always somewhat mushj', and wanting in body and flavor. The creams produced by this method^ ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 389 faithfully and skillfully applied, will be firm, smooth and fine- grained like the best butter or jelly. Some freeze in a warm place, believing that the more rapid the melting of the ice the quicker the cream freezes. If cream begins to melt while serving, beat up well from the bottom with the long wooden paddle. After the last beating and before covering again with ice, if wished molded, fill cream solidly in every part of mold, that there may be no air spaces, working up and down with a spoon, which pregses the cream in every part and also lightens it ; heap it a lit- tle above the brim, press the cover downhard, bind a buttered cloth over the joint, or use buttered or oiled paper put on with paste or gum tragacanth, bury it in a pan or tub of ice and salt and cover with a blanket. If it be a figure or design in two parts, fill each half of mold a little more than full ; the excess squeezes out on shutting it. Some cover top of cream in mold with thick white paper. When ready to serve, wash mold with cold water to remove the brine ; take off cloth, and wipe mold dry, lift off cover; turn mold over on a plate, and if room is warm, it will slip off the cream in a few seconds. It is better not to use warm water on the mold ; it causes the cream to melt and run down the surface in unsightly streams. The variety of molds is very large, from the plain pyra- mid to the most elaborate combinations of figures, animals, flowers and fruits, corresponding to the flavor, as oranges for orange ice-cream, etc., and new designs and devices are brought out every year. The Pyramid is made of a great many styles, both plain and fluted, and is useful for center-pieces, either of one or of several varieties and colors of creams or water-ices, put in layers. The Brick is a plain, oblong mold, with straight, slightly tapering sides. It is made of several sizes, from a pint to two quarts. The Cabinet, so called from its being used for Cabinet puddings, is oval in shape, about nine inches long, six inches wide, and four inches deep, and Contains two quarts. It is a very convenient mold for Tutti Prutti, blanc-mange, all kinds of boiled puddings,>^and many sorts of cake. A small cab- inet mold, holding enough to serve one guest, is four inches long, two inches wide and two inches deep. All these molds have tightly fitting covers and tapering sides, to allow their contents to be easily turned out. In the final packing of salt and ice, and when molds are packed, if rock salt is used, have it in small lumps size of a pea. The directions for making Self-freezing lee-cream with an 390 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. old fashioned freezer without patent inside, are as follows : After preparing the freezer as above and placing the cream or custard in can, remove lid carefully, and with a long wooden paddle beat the cream like batter steadily for about five or six minutes. Replace lid, pack two inches of pounded ice over it, spread above all several folds of blanket or carpet, and leave it untouched for an hour ; at the end of that time remove the ice from above the freezer-lid, wipe off carefully and open the freezer. Its sides will be lined with a thick layer of frozen cream. Displace this with the paddle, work- ing every part of it loose ; beat up cream again firmly and vigorously for fifteen or twenty minutes, until it is a smooth, half-congealed paste. The perfection of the ice-cream depends upon the thorough- ness of the beating at this point. Put on cover again, pack in more ice and salt, turn off brine, cover freezer entirely with ice, and spread the carpet over all. At the end of an hour or two again turn off brine and add fresh ice and salt, but do not open the freezer for two hours more. At that time take the freezer from the ice, open it, wrap a towel wet in hot water about the lower part and turn out a solid column of ice-cream, close grained, firm and delicious. Any of the recipes for ice-cream may be frozen in this way. Or they may be frozen without any freezer, by simply placing in a covered tin pail, setting latter in an ordinary wooden bucket, and proceeding as above directed for Self-freezing Ice-cream, always remembering to not much more than half fill can or pail, as the action of cream against sides of can when it is beaten hastens the freezing. A delicate way of serving ice-cream is to place upon it a spoon of whipped cream, and the most elaborate is to enclose it in me" ringues or kisses (see Confectionery).. Pill the shells with whatever ice-cream or other ices prepared, put together by twos, thus forming a large egg, tie it around with a ribbon of suitable color, and send to table. When several kinds are served at one time, they are desig- nated by ribbons of the same color as the creams or ices ; white for almond or vanilla, brown for chocolate, pale and deep yellow for lemon,pine-apple and orange, pink for strawberrj^, green for pistachio, fawn for peach and apricot, and so for all the others. Sometimes, after filling, the edges of the shells are lightly touched with the soft part that was removed, to make them stick together. For Mav- hled Meringues, fill with two or more creams of different colors, as for example, vanilla in one-half and chocolate in the other, or straw- ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 391 berry and orange, lemon and pistachio, peach and almond, and any other combination fancy may dictate. A pleasing contrast also is furnished by filling one-half with ice-cream and the other with water- ice, or one with a vanity and the other with frozen fruit. The ribbons should be double-faced and of shades to correspond with and indi- cate the contents ; or take plain ribbons of the two colors required, stitch two pieces, one of each color, together at ends, each half the en- tire length wished, and tie around the meringue, finishing in a bow- knot, one-half of the bow thus being of each color. Angel or Cream Cake, Cream Sandwiches, White Lady Fingers, or Centennial Drops are nice served with Ice-cream. For freezing small molds and also Bisque or Biscuit Glace have a large tin mold, either square or rectangular ; fill this with little paper cases, which must fit the tin mold exactly in every part. These little cases may be made round, oval, oblong, square, or as little baskets, and about the size of a patty pan, of smooth, heavy white paper or light card-board, and a frill of lace paper put around the edge gives a pretty effect ; fill with the mixture, and cover mold with a hermetically fitting top. In the bottom of a wooden box, made for the purpose eight inches larger each way, with a cover and handles, put about six or eight inches of pounded ice and coarse salt in alternate layers ; in this place tin mold of filled caseswith another eight inches of ice and salt ; cover the whole with a thick, heavy cloth, or blanket, and let stand six or eight hours. The box containing ice should have a small i:)lugged hole, to allow escape of water from melted ice. When mold is taken from ice, wipe well before opening, to prevent any salt-water getting in. Or a more elaborate square tin box is made with shelves, with feet at each cor- ner to support them, and called a "cave," and when shelves are filled and placed in, one above the other, is also packed in the outer box with ice and salt. Then there is a patent cave that is round like an ice-cream freezer ; to fill, put shelf into can, packed as for ice-cream, cover with cases, then another shelf and so on till all are added ; put on lid, press tightly down, bind the joint like any mold, cover with pounded ice, then with a woolen cloth or blanket, then ice and salt and the "brine blanket." Let stand as ice-cream, draw- ing oif water and repacking if necessary. There should be a hole, with a wooden plug, in the side of ice-tub just above bottom the same as in an ice-cream freezer. Any one having the latter may 392 ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. have tin shelves made to fit the can, with three supports or feet two or three inches high, and if wished an extra cover without any opening in top, although with that plugged and carefully protected it will not be necessary ; remove beater, put in shelves, fill, cover, bind and cover with ice as above. In caring for patent ice-cream freezers, the cogs should be oiled occasionally and every part of the can, beater, etc., should be well cleaned and dried on top the stove or in sun before putting away. In making recipes refer to table of weights and measures for relative proportions of pounds, pints, teacups, gills, etc. Whipped cream may be added when cream is half frozen, or later, just before it is packed for hardening, and the quantity given in the following recipes is measured before whipping. In all recipes where only cream is used, part new milk may be substituted in any proportion wished, using with it the arrowroot, corn-starch or flour m proportion as given, remembering that the milk must always be cooked with the sugar and thickening, strained, cooled and then the cream added ; but when cream alone is used it may be cooked or not as liked. Always use a custard kettle and strain all mixtures while hot. In giving proportions of ingredients in difierent recipes where cream and m.ilk are used the term liquid will be given to cover both. Custard ice-cream or Neapolitan is considered by some preferable for Caramel, Chocolate, Coffee, Lemon, Vanilla and the difierent nut creams, and the Philadelphia and Lacteanqla, without eggs, as already suggested, better adapted to fruit flavors, but where the light- ness given by eggs is wished without the flavor, the whites alone can he used and added when cream is partially frozen. It is better to use earthen bowls, crocks, jars, etc., to hold any of the milk, cream or fruit preparations while in process of making ice- creams, and we feel like repeating instructions for adding fruit and juices, as one will be fully repaid for the extra trouble. Always add juice when cream is partly frozen, and especially is this true of very acid fruit, as currants, 'lemons, etc., for it is apt to curdle the cream if added before freezing; if fruit is used, chop and udd just before serving, or if to be molded, when put in mold. In winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam maj be substituted for it ; it should be melted and worked through a sieve before being added, and if the color should not be good a little prepared cochi- neal may be put in to improve its appearance. In recipes where ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 393 candied fruits are used the Frencli are of course the best, but one can dry and prepare them at home, and if either are not obtainable a substitute can be had by using any firm-fleshed, home-made pre- serves, such as cherries, strawberries, pears, peaches, pine-apples or quinces. Drain off syrup, chop into dice, roll in pulverized sugar and stir into cream, as above. In vanilla flavoring some use the ?>ean, a small bean to a quart, others heaping tablespoon powder, others half ounce vanilla sugar, while most use half tablespoon ex- tract to above proportion. The preparing, flavoring, molding and serving of ice-creams can be so varied, according to the taste of the kitchen-queen, that by carefully reading directions and recipes she can soon make any combinations wished, and by adding "here a little and there a little" create new and delicious flavors. Almond loe-cream. — Cook two quarts cream, the prepared almonds and three teacups sugar in custard kettle, strain, cool and freeze ; prepare almonds as follows : blanch and rub to a paste, with four tablespoons each sugar and creaAi reserved from the above quantities, half pound shelled almonds and a few drops rose water. Add when half frozen one quart eream, whipped, teaspoon almond extrsfct and half vanilla. For Almond Caramel, put the blanched almonds in oven, roast quickly to a yellow brown and then prepare and add as above, adding half teaspoon caramel in place of almond extract. For Pistachio Ice-cream make as above, using pistachio nuts instead of almonds, with a heaping teaspoon Spinach Coloring to give a fine color. If wished with eggs, use eggs and more sugar in proportion as given in general directions. Some use only two ounces shelled nuts to each quart cream. Any Nut Ice-cream can be made in same way except that walnuts and hickory nuts ate not blanched. Arrowroot Ice-cream. — Boil two quarts milk, addhalf pint arrow- root mixed smooth with pait of the milk and two pounds sugar ; when cold add two quarts cream, whites of six eggs, tablespoon any flavoring and freeze. Boston Ice-cream. — Make a boiled custard of three pints cream three teacups sugar and yolks of ten eggs ; strain, cool, freeze and add teacup crumbs ofsteamed brown bread, prepared by drying, grating and sifting, pint cream, whipped, and weU-frothed whites, and pack as directed. This can be made without eggs, and also by cooking part of crumbs with custard, giving rather more body to cream. Buttermilk lee-cream.— Strain buttermilk through athin cloth, so as to remove all lumps and particles of butter, add sugar until very sweet and flavor with vanilla. Freeze as directed. 394 ICES AND lOE-CKEAM. Caramel Ice-cream. — One and a half pounds brown sugar, three quarts cream, one pint boiling milk. Put sugar in an iron frying-pan on fire and stir until it is a liquid, stir it in the milk, strain, and when cool add to cream. Whipping all or part of the cream makes it more delicious. Or to any of the cooked founda- tions or preparations add only half the sugar to the milk or cream and make a caramel as above with the rest, add to boiled mixture, strain, cool and freeze. The flavor may be varied by browning the sugar more or less. Chestnut Ice-cream. — The native chestnut may be used, but is not as fine as the Italian variety. Boil, and to a quarter pound pulp add two tablespoons sugar, and four of cream, rub to a smooth paste and add it to three pints cream, three teacups sugar and twelve eggs ; cook, strain, cool, freeze, and add, just before packing, a pint cream, whipped, and juice of one orange. Chocolate Ice-cream. — Scald one pint new milk, add by de grees three-quarters pound sugar, two eggs, and five tablespoons grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little milk. Beat well for a moment or two, place ove» fire and heat until it thickens, stir- ring constantly, set ofi", add a tablespoon of thin, dissolved gelatine, and when cold, place in freezer; when it begins to set, add a quart of rich cream, half of it well whipped. To make a mold of chocolate and vanilla, freeze in separate freezers, divide a mold through the center with card-board, fill each division with a different cream, and set mold in ice and salt for an hour or P""=y i™-""'™- more. For that delicious preparation, Chocolate Fruit Ice-cream, add when crea m is frozen French candied fruit, or a cofiee-cup preserv- ed peaches, or any other preserves, prepared as directed. For Spiced Chocolate Ice-cream, cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar; prepare spice by pouring over three-quarters teaspoon best pulver- ized cinnamon, seven tablespoons boiling water and let stand on back of stove, (must not boil), twenty minutes ; pour off clear liquid and add to it quarter pound grated chocolate, or less if not wished highly flavored. Add this to the hot cream, strain, cool and freeze as directed. When half frozen add one pint cream, whipped and fla- vored with half teaspoon vanilla. Delicious served in glasses or dishes covered with tablespoon whipped cream or meringue, also very dainty molded in individual molds and surrounded with whip- ped cream. For Chocolate Caramel, make as above, using four tablespoons caramel in place of cinnamon, adding it with the whip- ped cream and vanilla.. Or to the above hot cream mixture add a chocolate paste made as follows : Stir in a dish, set in pan of hot water, six tablespoons grated chocolate, two tablespoons each sugar and boiling water, till smooth and glossy ; adding whipped white of an egg just before removing from fire, is an improvement. After add- ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 395 ing to mixture, strain, cool, freeze and finish as above, adding whip- ped cream and flavoring. For Chocolate Custard, to any two quarts custard preparation add the above paste and one table- spoon dissolved gelatine and proceed as above. For Chocolate Moss, mix one quart double cream, whipped to a stiff froth, and drained on sieve, with half pound sugar and three-quarters tablespoon vanilla. Meantime have two' squares Baker's chocolate melted by plac- ing in a small tin basin over a teakettle boiling water. Stir choco- late carefully into the whipped cream. Pour into freezer, taking out beater, or in a pail and freeze without stirring. When wished for the table, dip a. cloth in boiling water and wrap about the freezer until the cream slides out, or better, let freezer stand in warm room for a little while. Slice and it looks like variegated moss. Two tablespoons gelatine, soaked in cold water two or three hours, may be added to the whipped cream. Five tablespoons grated choco- late to each quart liquid, in any of the above recipes, gives a pleas- ant flavored ice-cream. Cocoa-nut Ice-cream. — Cook one pint milk, three eggs, grated rind of one lemon and a teacup and a half sugar in custard kettle ; when thickened, strain, cool, freeze, and when half frozen add cup grated fresh cocoa-nut, prepared as candied fruits in Cabinet Ice- cream, one quart cream, whipped, and juice of one lemon. Des- sicated cocoa-nut can be used without any preparation. Custard Ice-cream. — Beat yolks of five eggs,add eight well round- ed tablespoons white sugar ; boil a quart milk, stir with it one table- spoon corn-starch (previously dissolved.in a little cold milk) ; when cooked until as cream, cool, add one quart cream, the eggs and sugar ; season with lemon or vanilla and freeze. Plain custard is also good frozen. Sliced peaches greatly improve this or any frozen custard, added just before serving the cream. Coffee Ice-cream. — Grind very fine a quarter pound coffee, half each Mocha and Java, or use the pulverized, taking only half as much. Put one quart cream on in custard kettle ; when hot add coffee and cook ten or fifteen minutes, strain, add pint more cream, yolks of- twelve eggs and three teacups sugar ;_ cook, strain, cool, freeze and when half frozen add pint cream, whipped, and also the whites ; or where the made coffee is used, scald a pint milk and stir in a tablespoon arrowroot, mixed smooth in a little cold cream, add two cups sugar and cup very strong clear coffee sweetened to taste ; when cold stir in quart cream, whipped, and freeze ; or for 'Whipped Coffee Ice-cream, whip one quart double cream, add cup each sugar and strong black coffee, whip to a froth, pile in goblets, freeze and serve. In winter time can be placed out doors or in summer time in Cave as described. For White Coffee Ice-cream, pour one quart boiling cream over half pound freshly roasted whole Mocha 396 ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. and Java, half and half; place in custard kettle and keep on back of range for an hour or so, where water in outer kettle will keep hot, not hoil ; strain, return to inner kettle and add yolks of twelve^ eggs, beaten smooth with teacupandhalf sugar; when it begins to thicken, take off, strain, cool, freeze, and when half done add pint cream, whipped, and if ^J^^^P? wanted very delicious the well-frothed ^^ ^^g^^P ^ whites may be used; if so, add with the "ooffle Icecream. Cream, and use in the custard a half teacup more sugar. Mold in melon mold and serve surrounded by whip- ped cream. Tea Ice-cream is made as above, using one ounce tea. Eggless Ice-cream. — One quart cream,two quarts new milk, scant half teacup flour, or two tablespoons, and one and a half pounds gran- ulated sugar, or three teacups ; put three pints milk in custard kettle, or in pail, set in kettle of water ; when hot stir in flour, previously mixed smooth in one pint new milk ; let cook ten or fifteen minutes, stirring once or twice, then add sugar and stir constantly for a few minutes till it is well dissolved. Remove and strain while hot through a crash strainer. When cold add one pint cream and place in freezer. When half frozen, take a wooden paddle, scrape down sides and stir in well one pint double cream, previously whipped and flavored with one and a half tablespoons va- nilla, put on cover and pack as directed. This makes one gallon and is sufficient for two dozen dishes ; or take in all three pints new milk, one and a quarter pints cream, one tablespoon flour, two teacups sugar, and one tablespoon vanilla, and prepare as above, reserving and whipping all instead of part of cream and adding when half frozen. This makes sufficient for' sixteen or eighteen dishes ahd any proportion maybe taken for a less number. For Fig Ice-cream two teacups figs cut fine may be added with the whipped cream. For Almond Ice-cream, to each quart liquid, milk or cream, use four ounces shelled almonds prepared as follows : Blanch and pound to a paste with half pint cream or milk and four tablespoons sugar, re- served from above quantities and a few drops rose water to prevent oiling of nuts ; add to milk in custard kettle and cook with rest of sugar ; finish as above and add with whipped cream half teaspoon almond extract and quarter teaspoon vanilla ; or if a more decided nutty taste is wished add the nuts with the flavoring ; or for Car- amel Cream add in proportion of two tablepoons caramel, made as directed, and a quarter ' teaspoon vanilla to each quart liquid when preparation is half frozen. For Filbert Ice-cream, make as the Almond and Almond Caramel. Any of the recipes with fruit, nut or any flavor where all cream is used can be made as above, using same proportions of liquid, only two-thirds new milk to one-third cream, or half and half, or any proportion wislied, preparing milk as above, and adding other in- ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 397 gredients. as in recipe. In whipping cream for ice-cream, if double cream is used, it is not alway.s necessary to drain on sieve, ajr it will all whip stiff enough to be used. Gelatine Ice-cream. — Soak one half package of Cox's gelatine in a pint new milk ; boil two pints new milk, and pint and a third sugar, strain, add the soaked gelatine, stirring well ; when cold add one quart cream, tablespoon vanilla, and freeze ; or reserve half of cream, whip and add as directed. Ginger Ice-cream. — Bruise four ounces preserved ginger in a mortar or bowl, using potato masher, add two-thirds pint powdered sugar, and one pint cream ; mix well, strain, freeze and when ready to pack add two ounces preserved ginger, cut in dice, and juice of one lemon and pint cream, whipped. Harlequin Ice-cream. — This is any three ice-creams wished arranged in layers, as illustrated, in the Brick mold ; vanilla, pistachio and strawberry are used together, or choco- late, strawberry and vanilla, or almond, or any nut or fruit cream, or a water-ice is used for one layer. The mold is then ■ "J- j,;^=rv_I~3iP^5iSJt=^^ bound and packed as directed. Hichory-nut Ice-cream. — A pound hickory-nut kernels, two cups sugar, quart cream. Pick over the kernels carefully for pieces of shell, then pound in a mortar with a little sugar and water added. Put two" tablespoons of the sugar over fire without water, stir con- stantly till melted and browned, add a little water to dissolve it, then add to cream with the sugar and nut paste and freeze. Jam, Ice-cream. — Prepare one pound of jam as directed, add one and a quarter pints cream, mix well and strain, freeze, and when partly frozen add juice of one lemon. Apricot, Raspberry, etc., are very nice made in this way. Kentucky Ice-crearn. — Make a half gallon rich boiled custard, sweeten to taste, add two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a half cup cold milk ; let the custard cool, put it in freezer, and as soon as it begins to freeze add one quart cream, whipped, and just before serving one pound raisins and 'one pint strawberry preserves. Blanched almonds or grated cocoa-nut are additions. Some pre- fer currants to raisins, and some also add citron chopped fine. Italian Ice-cream. — Whip three pints cream and add to it three-quarters pound best pulverized sugar and tablespoon vanilla ; freeze, and when frozen and ready for packing stir carefully into it the following : Half teacup granulated sugar, cooked in quarter pint water till it "threads" when a little is taken up on a spoon, or will become as soft wax when tested in cold water ; then pour it Blowly 398 • ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. over the well-frothed whites of two eggs, pouring with the left hand and beating constantly with the right, as in making Boiled Icing, till it is cold. After stirring into frozen cream, cover and pack as directed, or the cream may be cooked instead of whipped. For Italian Custard Ice-cream, cook the cream with two teacups gran- ulated sugar, yolks of nine eggs ; strain, cool, add the vanilla, freeze and finish as above. For Whipped Ice-cream, whip quart cream, add two-thirds pint pulverized sugar and half tablespoon vanilla ; freeze as directed. Any other flavoring may be used. Lemon Ice-cream. — To two quarts sour cream that has soured quickly, take one of sweet cream, pound and a half sugar, the juice and rind of one lemon ; cut the rind thin, and steep it ten or fifteen minutes in half a pint of the sweet cream over boiling water ; strain, cool, and add to the rest, and freeze ; or make a custard of one quart cream, yolks of six eggs and three and a half teacups sugar, (reserving six tablespoons, two for preparing the zest, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, and four to mix with the juice, obtained as directed, of three lemons and one small orange ; ) let boil, strain, cool and freeze : To grated rind of two lemons, being careful not to grate any of white pith, as it is bitter, add the preparedjuice, let stand an hour or two, strain and add with pint cream, whipped, and the well beaten whites, to the cus- tard when half frozen ; or make as above, omitting juice and rind and flavor with tablespoon lemon extract. Macaroon Ice-cream. — One and one-half pints cream, half tea- cup dry macaroons, grated and sifted, teacup white sugar, yellow rind of one orange, grated, and the juice of two. Whip cream, add_ sugar, freeze, and when half frozen add macaroons and the orange juice and rind ; or to any half frozen preparation, in proportion of teacup or half pound sugar to each quart cream or milk, add the sifted macaroons and if almond macaroons add six drops extract almond to same. For Macaroon Caramel, first roast macaroons to a yellow brown and add a few drops caramel, and for Triple Ice-cream make as above and add tablespoon each sponge cake, macaroon and meridgue crumbs, prepared by grating and sifting when dry. Flavor with teaspoon and a half nectarine extract. Serve in the little cases, first placing them in the "cave" as described. New York Ice-cream. — Boil quart thin cream, with teacup and a half sugar and a vanilla bean in it. Beat yolks of twelve eggs light and pour the boiling cream to them. Set on fire again for a minute. This yellow custard will not become frothy, rich and 1 ght in the freezer if cooked too much, and should be taken off and strained as soon as elightly thickened. Freeze as directed. Mold in a round mold with a chocolate cream for center layer and a lemoa cream above. This is very delicious. ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 399 Orange Ice-oream. — Cook two quarts cream and two teacups sugar, cool, strain and freeze. Prepare juice of one dozen oranges and one lemon 'as in Saratoga Ice-cream, add grated rind of two oranges, and cook to a syrup with one and one-third teacups sugar, strain, cool and mix with cream when half frozen. Strawberry Ice-cream is made as above, first preparing one quart juice from two or three quarts berries, by mashing through the wire sieve, add- ingtopulp in sieve when juice ceases to run, two-thirds teacup sugar (this is in addition to quantity given for ice-cream), let stand an hour, mash,- strain and add to first juice, then cook to a syrup and finish as above. A teaspoon or two orange juice added with the syrup makes a delicious flavor. Raspberry Ice-cream is made as the Strawberry using the Cuthbert variety. For Riced Orange Ice- cream, wash and parboil eight or nine tablespoons best rice, put in custard kettle with quart milk and pint cream, teacup and a half sugar and a pinch salt ; cook till grains are almost dissolved ; when done, stir in yolks of six eggs and two tea- spoons vanilla, mix well together, freeze as _ directed, then place in mold and pack. When moed orange ioe.oream. ready to serve take from mold and place on the top and around the base a dozen oranges prepared as in Orange Compote. Peach Ice-cream. — Mash to a pulp one quart peaches, strain through a hair sieve and add six ounces of loaf-sugar which has been on range to dissolve a few minutes ; add one pint and a half cream, a few drops of cochineal to give a nice peach-color and freeze as directed ; or cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar, strain and when cool freeze ; when half frozen add one heaping pint peach pulp mixed to a smooth paste with two teacups sugar and add also the pint of cream, whipped. Two quarts peaches make one pint pulp. If wished, reserve quarter of them, cut in dice and add to cream just before serving. To prepare pulp do not peel till just ready to use, as all light fruits darken so quickly, and it is better to even drop in cold water as soon as peeled, but must not remain long as juice will be extracted; chop in fruit bowl, mash, and add sugar as above, stirring till dissolved and strain before adding to frozen cream. Peach loe-oream. If Pcach Flavor Is uscd, take twice as much as of the pulp and mix it with the cooked cream after latter haS cooled. Canned peaches are used same way as fresh fruit, utilizing the juice for pudding sauces or ices. Any of above recipes may be molded and surrounded with pieces of the fruit when served. Nice Apricot and Apple Ice-cream maybe made as above, except do not pare fruit. Plum and Cherry Ice-cream are made same way, exciept after stoning and mashing the fruit add a few of the kernels pounded to a paste, and the dark fruits can stand an hour or so, stirring occasionally ; if the light fruits are placed in a covered 400 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. dish they may also be kept awhile and will strain easier. Any fruit may be used as above and for Swiss /ce- cream whip all of the cream, instead of cooking a part, using powdered sugar and not straining ; freeze, add fruit and finish as above, and if wished even more delicious add with the fruit whites of six eggs, beaten with a quarter teacup sugar. Pine-apple Ice-cream. — Three pints cream, two large ripe pine- apples, pared, and eyes, heart or core removed, as latter is bitter, two pounds powdered sugar ; slice pine-apples thin, scatter sugar between slices, cover and let stand three hours ; cut or chop it up in the syrup, and strain through a hair seive or double bag of coarse lace ; beat gradually into the cream, and freeze, adding when half frozen a pint of cream, whipped ; reserve a few pieces of pine-apple, unsugared, cut into square bits, and stir through cream when frozen. Peach Ice-cream may be made in same way ; or for Saratoga Ice-cream take above pro- portions, using granulated sugar ; cook the cream and two teacups sugar, strain, cool and freeze and when half frozen,addfruitjuice prepared as follows: p'-'pp'^ 1==--=-==^ Mash and strain the pulp, a heaping pint, and to this add juice of two oranges and one lemon. (To better obtain juice of latter, roll, rub with a spoonful or two of sugar to obtain the zest, then pare, scrape off all of the inner white rind down to pulp, as this is bitter, cut in half, pick out seeds, squeeze out juice, dissolve the zest in it and strain.) Cook all the juice with two teacups sugar to a syrup, strain and cool and add with the pint of cream, whipped, when preparation is half frozen. Mold and serve with whipped cream as a garnish. Pine apple darkens very quickly and should be cooked as soon as pre- pared. Banana Ice-cream is made as above, using teacup less sugar, and juice of one lemon, or half and half orange and lemon. Strawberry Ice-cream. — Sprinkle strawberries with sugar, mash well and rub through a sieve ; to a pint juice add half a pint good cream, make very sweet, freeze, and when half frozen, stir in lightly one pint of cream, whipped, and handful of whole strawber- ries, sweetened. Mold and pack ; or mash with a potato pounder in an earthen bowl one quart of strawberries with one pound of sugar; rub through a colander, add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Or if not in the strawberry season, use the French bottled strawberries ( or any canned ones ), mix juice with half a pint of cream, sweeten, freeze and add whipped cream and strawberries as above. Peach'ox Apple Ice-cream, may be made in same way, using very ripe peaches and the yellow bellflower apple. In molding, one can put an inch layer of any of the above fruit creams and then fill with Vanilla Ice-cream, dropping in here and there a little candied fruit. This makes Cab- inet Ice-cream and can be prettily molded by placing carefully some of the candied fruit next mold before filling, and more elaborately ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 401 by filling the mold two-thirds full of Almond Ice-cream ; set it in bed of ice and salt ; then to two quarts ice-cream, whip half pint double cream, mix in lightly one-third pint piilverized sugar and add quar- ter pound each blanched almonds, candied cherries, pears and apricots, first soaking fruits and nuts in a hot sugar syrup till soft, then chopping into dice and lightly dusting with pulverized sugar ; mix this prepared cream carefully- through the ice-cream in mold, put on cover, bind and pack as directed. For Surprise Ice-cream, put three pints of strawberries in a deep dish with one cup pulverized sugar and juice of one orange ; whip four pints cream and add two cups sugar, freeze, take out beater and draw frozen cream to sides of freezer. Fill space in center with the strawberries and sugar, and pile the frozen cream over them. Put on cover and pack as di- rected. When the cream is turned out, garnish the base with straw- berries. Raspberries or any fruit may be used in same way, taking a little less sugar for sweeter fruits, and may be molded as in Fruit Surprise. Tea Ice-cream. — Pour a pint cream over four tablespoons Old Hyson tea, scald in custard kettle, or by placing the dish contain- mg it in a kettle of boiling water, remove fr-om fire and let stand five minutes ; strain into a pint cold cream, scald again, and when hot mix with it four eggs and teacup and a half sugar, well beaten together ; let cool and freeze. Vanilla Ice-cream. — Mix three pints sweet cream, pint new milk, pint pulverized sugar, whites of two eggs, beaten light; freeze. Serve plain or as Fruit Surprise by lining a mold with it, then fill center with fresh berries, sweetened, or fruit cut in slices, and cover with the ice-cream, put on lid, bind and set in freezer for half an hour, with salt and" ice well packed around it. The fruit must be chilled, but not frozen. Strawberries and peaches are delicious thus prepared. Or for Vanilla Custard Ice-cream, cook in kettle in proportion of one quart cream, six eggs and teacup and a half sugar ; strain, cool, add third of tablespoon vanilla and freeze as directed ; reserving the whites, beating and adding when custarri is half frozen, makes it lighter ; adding when this is frozen ready to pack, half pint mixed candied cherries, raisins, currants and citron prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, makes Tutti Frutti Ice-cream. Cream Biscuit. — These are generally made of all cream,although we give a recipe with part milk and three with a syrup. The cream must be pure double cream, whipped to a stiff froth and drained on sieve as directed. ^There are only one or two kinds that are frozen as ice-cream ; for the others, molds, paper cases, fruit cases, etc., are filled with the mixture and placed in the cave, as directed, for three~ or four hours. The cave in which the ice-cream freezer is utilized is best, and using the same care in packing as with ice-cream there would be no necessity for a different cover or for binding the joint 26 402 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. after covered ; so the only additional article needed would be a set of shelves to fill the size freezer used, and it would be wise to have two or three extra shelves with feet of different heights so that in- dividual molds, glasses, fruit cases and any other receptacle in which ice-cream, biscuits, ices, etc., are molded could be frozen. Or as a substitute for all a large tin pail can be used for freezer and round pieces to fit made of heavy white card-board for shelves, plac- ing them on top each layer of cases, etc. When thus used do not fill cases quite full and after placing a layer of them in pail, cover with a round piece of clean white paper to fit, then the card-board shelf, then more cases and so on till all are used, when cover pail_, pack and finish as directed. Below are recipes of different varieties of biscuits. Custard Biscuit. — Beat well eight yolks of eggs, with teacup and a quarter sugar, a very little salt and one pint cream. Stir over the fire until slightly thickened. Flavor with either vanilla pow- der, the almond or lemon extract or coffee or chocolate. It may also be made by adding z. puree of peaches, strawberries, raspberries, or pine-apple to custard. Freeze as ice-cream and when half frozen stir in lightly one-half pint of cream, whipped ; then partly fill pa- per cases with the mixture, smooth over the tops and place in ice- cream cave. Fruit Biscuit. — Beat yolks of eight eggs and four teacups sugar well together, add quart of any fruit juice, cook in custard kettle, strain and place on ice, and add to it two ounces gelatine, dis- solved by adding a very little warm water, placing it in pan of hot water and setting on back of range. "When mixture thickens add quart cream, fill cases, and place in cave. Italian Biscuit. — Boil together pint each granulated sugar and water twenty minutes, add well-beaten white of an egg and boil ten minutes longer. Strain into an earthen dish and add yolks of twelve eggs and whites of two and five tablespoons orange juice. Set dish in a pan of hot water during process of beating. Beat briskly until it resembles a well-prepared, firm, sponge-cake batter. Fill cases with it and smooth over tops and pack and fireeze as above. Or the mixture may be frozen in one mold, and some sifted macaroon powder or grated chocolate sprinkled over the surface, to imitate a baked souMe, and with care the hot salamander maybe used. By adding three-quarters pint peach pulp and stirring lightly with the mixture half pint cream, whipped, and a quarter teaspoon va- nilla, luscious Peach Biscuit will be the result, and can be filled in paper cases, or in the Brick mold, or in a long mold just the width and height of the cases, and when frozen, turn out, cut in slices, or if in long mold in pieces size of cases and frost with a Chocolate Ice, made of half pint syrup and four ounces best chocolate, smoothly mixed, and frozen ; or a Strawberry or Raspberry Ice may be used, ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 403 and some add to the ice whites of three eggs beaten well with three tablespoons sugar. Serve in paper cases. Or for Strawberry Biscuit add pint strawberry pulp instead of peach and then the half pint cream, whipped. Fill in cases and surround each with a band of stiff paper, reaching half an inch above the edge of the case, pinning ends together to secure them ; freeze in cave, and when ready to serve, remove the bands and cover with macaroons bruised fine and browned in oven, and one can quickly use the Salamander iron if liked. The bands of paper are meant to give the appearance to the biscuit of having risen in process of baking. Nut JBiscuit. — Make a syrup as in Vanilla Biscuit, cool and add the nuts blanched and prepared as for ice-cream, quarter pound shelled nuts to each quart cream, and the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs ; return to fire, stir quickly till it thickens, coating the spoon, ' then strain into a large bowl and beat till cold. Whip quart cream and add lightly with half teaspoon almond extract, if almond or pistachio nuts are used, and fill in cases. Any flavoring may be used, and blanched nuts and candied fruits, prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, may be added just before filling cases. Vanilla Biscuit. — Beat well together the yolks of eight eggs, and eight ounces powdered sugar. Flavor one pint new milk with vanilla, and boil it. Dissolve in a vessel set in hot water one and a half ounce of gelatine, and as soon as it is dissolved mix with the boiling milk, pour slowly over eggs and sugar, stirring all the time ; when well mixed pass through a sieve and put in very cold place to cool. Whip one pint cream and add it slowly to the cold mixture ; fill cases and freeze. Or, With Syrup, cook in custard kettle tea- cup and a quarter sugar and one gill water, add yolks of eight eggs and stir well for five or ten minutes ; strain into an earthen bowl and beat with an egg beater till it is stiff and cold. Whip quart thick double cream, flavor with quarter tablespoon vanilla and stir it lightly into the above ; fill the cases, pack in cave, and finish as directed ; or part of mixture may be colored and flavored with rasp- berry syrup and placed in bottom of caseSj then fill them with the plain vanilla and freeze. Or in Fruit Biscuit, fill two-thirds full with the mixture, freeze, and fill up with some water-ice that blends with the flavor used in mixture : For Strawberry Biscuit use a layer of Orange Ice ; for Pineapple Biscuit, Lemon Ice, etc. Any of the above mixtures may be made more elaborate by glazing, but as that needs a confectioner's skill we will not describe it ; but the mere icing of them is given in Strawberry Biscuit, and one can cover their tops when ready to serve with whipped cream or with a plain meringue, and the mixture can also be filled in Lemon or Orange cases, made by cutting oS' top from fruit and carefully removing pulp. Sherbet Crystal. — Boil one pint sugar and pint and half 404 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. water fifteen or twenty minutes, beat yolks of fifteen eggs very light and strain. Place syrup in custard kettle and add yolks, beating with an egg-whisk for ten minutes. Remove inner kettle from fire, place in a pan of cold water and continue beating fifteen min- utes. Pack mold in ice and salt, and spread on sides and bottom of it one quart Strawberry or Raspberry Sherbet ; when hardened, put the cooked mixture in center, being careful not to disturb the sherbet, cover all with a piece of thick white paper, put on cover and finish as directed in packing molds. Glazed Meringue. — Any ice-cream maybe meringued and glazed successfully. Boil three-quarters pint milk and stir in tablespoon gela- tine that has been soaked an hour or two in half cup cold water, strain into quart cream, add tablespoon vanilla and half pound pulverized sugar ; when frozen, take out beater and pack the cream smoothly, be- ing careful to have the top perfectly level,and pack with ice as directed. When ready to serve, make a meringue of the whites of six eggs and six tablespoons pulverized sugar. Turn the cream out on a fancy dish and cover every part well with the meringue. Brown with a red hot salamander or shovel and serve immediately ; or put the frozen cream in round mold and imbed in ice and salt; have a flat round sponge cake on plate, and when ready to serve turn mold quickly out upon it, cover with the meringue and glaze as above. Another way to serve any ice cream, without the glazing, is to bake a sponge cake in one of the crown molds, ice it with a white icing, and when ready to serve place on platter, spread inside with any fruit jelly liked and fill center with any ice-cream, frozen in freezer but not molded ; heap whipped cream, sweetened, on top of center and around base of cake and serve. Frozen Pudding. — Put one pint milk in custard kettle, beat three eggs and teacup sugar together, and add, stirring all the while. Pour the hot custard on twenty-five dry lady fingers, add cup dried currants and let cool. When cold, add two tablespoons orange juice and pint cream, whipped to a froth. Freeze the same as ice- cream. When frozen wet a melon mold in cold water, sprinkle a few currants on the sides and bottom and fill with frozen mixture ; bind and pack as directed. Serve with Apricot Sauce around it. Or With Gelatine, take dozen each macaroons and cocoa-nut cakes, doz- en and a half lady fingers, and a cup dried currants. Prepare mold as above, sprinkle sides and bottom with currants and put in lay- ers of the cakes, sprinkling with currants till all are used. Put a pint and a half milk in custard kettle, when hot, stir in two table- spoons gelatine, soaked one hour in half cup cold milk, then add four eggs beaten well with teacup sugar, and cook four minutes, stir- ring all the while. Take off', and add pinch salt and one teaspoon vanilla. Pour this, a few spoonfuls at a time, on the cake and let cool. When cold, cover with thick white paper, and it is well to ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 405 let paper extend over the edges and then close the cover tight upon it ; bind and pack in ice and salt. Or a more elaborate pudding is made by adding to the gelatine custard a pint cream and three more eggs, ^ while cooking ; remove from fire and add half tablespoon nectarine extract and strain into mold till within half an inch of top, having first half filled it with cake, fruit and nuts, placed in layers as above, using macaroons, lady fingers, currants, seedless raisins, citron and blanched almonds, preparing currants, raisins and cit- ron as in Cabinet Ice-cream and chopping the almonds. Now cut a piece from a sheet of sponge cake to fit top and place on the cus- tard, cover tightly with the lid and let the pudding cool. When cold, bind and pack as directed, for three or four hours. Serve with any pudding sauce, or a rich custard, or whipped cream, sweetened. Any kind of stale cake, macaroons or meringues, dried or preserved fruit, candied fruit or flavoring may be used, although for the latter our confectioner tells us that Nectarine Extract is more delicious for cabinet puddings ; while we have had success in all fruit pud- dings in mixing the flavor, vanilla and lemon, half and half. The famous Nes^elrode Pudding can be made with or without eggs and differs verjr little from any of the iced puddings, save there must be chestnuts in it. With Eggs, boil or blanch forty chestnuts, and as in ice-cream the Italian are best to use, peel, mash and rub through a sieve and, cook in custard kettle with yolks of twelve eggs, pint cream and two teacups sugar; when it thickens strain and add teaspoon vanilla and pinch salt ; or mix the chestnut pulp with clari- fied syrup, pint sugar and pint water, as in Italian Biscuit, add cream and eggs as above and place in custard kettle, stirring constantly until it begins to thicken, remove and add vanilla. When either mixture is cold, put in freezer and freeze, adding when partly frozen, four tablespoons orange juice, pint of cream, whipped, and two ounces each citron, currants and raisins, three ounces each preserved pine-apples, and candied apricots and cherries, soaked or cooked in syrup as above ; then chop raisins, slice citron very fine and cut the pine-apple and apricots into dice ; or put mixture in freezer, and freeze without stirring, scraping down the cream from sides of can with the paddle as fast as it freezes and lightly mixing till smooth. Cover, and when frozen place inmold, stirring carefully into it the fruit prepared as above, and pint cream, whipped ; cover, bind, and set in cave. To make Without Eggs, take a pint chestnut pulp, add two teacups sugar and rub to a smooth paste, add teaspoon vanilla and mix it gently with a pint of cream, whipped ; put in freezer and freeze without stirring, as above ; then add to it quarter pound each currants, raisins and citron, prepared as directed ; put in molds and place in cave or the pail as described. Serve with any pudding sauce, custard or whipped cream. Or, With Pineapple, boil' one pint and a half shelled chestnuts half an hour, rub off skins, pound to a paste and to it add a pint shelled almonds, blanched and pre- 406 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. pared as above. Make a syrup of pint each sugar and water and the juice from one can pine-apple, cook twenty minutes in custard kettle and add beaten yolks of eleven eggs, placing on .back of range and stirring constantly till it thick- ens, some using an egg beater. Take off, place inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat fifteen minutes longer and let cool; then mix nut paste with half pint cream and rub through < the sieve, add to mixture and freeze. Prepare Menon Mbia. three-quarters pound mixed French candied fruit, as in Cabinet Ice-cream, chop and add with the canned pine-apple cut fine, table- spoon vanilla, six tablespoons orange juice and half pint cream, whipped, when mixture is half frozen, or when ready to mold. A melon mold makes the handsomest dish and when served stick here and there roasted chestnuts or blanched almonds, dipped in a candy syrup, then slightly cooled, and also garnish the melon with them. Some add the candled fruit, flavoring, etc., to the mixture before freezing, but the extra trouble will well repay one. Strawherry Vanity. — Beat yolks of nine eggs and two teacups pulverized sugar to a cream, and to this add one quart strawberry juice, prepared as for Strawberry Ice-cream, mixed with two teacups sugar till all dissolved. Place mixture on ice and strain into it half box gelatine, dissolved, and when it thickens slightly, stir in gently one quart pure double cream, whipped. When it begins to harden, fill in a large mold, or individual molds, and pack. Serve in two or three hours, as Vanities are more like the different creams and do not want to be as hard as ice-cream. Whole strawberries may be dropped in just before molding. Serve with whipped cream sweet- ened, or it is nice with simply sweetened cream, flavored with straw- berry juice; or with a custard made by cooking in custard kettle one pint milk or cream, yolks of three eggs and naif teacup sugar ; remove from fire and add the well-whipped whites, quarter pint strawberry juice and a teaspoon orange juice andlet become ice-cold. The same flavor of Vanities can be made as of ice-creams, using same proportion of fruit juice as above, and candied and preserved fruits can be added as before in ice-creams. For other fla,vors as vanilla,cof- fee, chocolate, etc., use quart water instead of fruit juice. Orange and Lemon Vanities may be served in the Fruit Cases by cutting off about an inch from the top of fruit corresponding to the Vanity, carefully taking out the pulp and filling with the mixture ; or a more economical way is to cut fruit in halves, take out pulp, then paste on a rim of buttered paper extending au inch and a half above the edge, fill and place in Ice-cream Cave ; or any Vanity can be filled in a cake-c^se as described on bottom of page 108 and then placed in cave. It would be better to first loosen cake from mold, then return to mold, carefully cut out center, fill and set in cave in the cake-mold, as that would keep it in shape. When ready to serve ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 407 take out carefully, invert on platter, placing it right side up, and heap a meringue or whipped cream upon the Vanity in center. In Lemon Vanity use only one and a half pints juice, and in Banana and Chocolate use teacup less sugar. Ices. These are generally made of water, sugar and juice of fruits, al- though the fruit juice is used alone with its measurement of sugar, as pint for pint. The juice is obtained by rubbing fruit through a wire sieve, all except oranges and lemons (as with them none of the pulp is used), and then straining through the ice-cream, or three cornered jelly strainer, although with peaches, apples, apricots, etc., some prefer the pulp also, and do not strain. Where any seeded fruits are used, it gives a iine flavor to leave a few of the kernels of "the seed in the pulp for an hour or so, and some mash them to a paste and add, straining juice when used, but as in all flavoring, give only a slight hint rather than a decided taste. In making the first kind, if the water and sugar are not well mixed before freezing, lihe sugar will sink to bottom and there will be a sharp unpleasant taste, or the mixture will be granular and mushy in texture, like a hardened mixture of sweetened snow and water, and melt very quickly, even in the freezer, if it is left open a few moments, and will soon become soft and spongy. But by following directions given ices can be made as smooth and firm as the best ice-cream and much resemble it in texture. The sugar and water must be cooked in a kettle to a clear syrup, clarified if not clear, scum removed, and the hot syrup strained through the ice-cream strainer and let be- come ice-cold. Pour it into freezer, packed as for ice-cream, add the strained fruit juice, and other materials, if any, and freeze as directed ; it will usually take from fifteen to twenty minutes to effect the first freezing of ices, as they require more time than ice-cream. Then open can, scrape down sides, and beat till smooth, and add ( if three pints water) one white of egg, beatenwith a tablespoon pulver- izeid sugar to a stiff" froth, or Meringue, and work as smoothly as pos- sible. Too many whites of eggs are apt to give a milky look, as they melt out rapidly. Draw off" brine, renew ice and salt, place the 408 ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. "brine blanket" over all as in ice-cream, and let stand to harden and ripen, for two or three hours. Open can, renew beating, repack as before and when frozen, serve. Water-ices increase in bulk one-half when frozen as above. For what are termed Granites or Sherbets, where a syrup is not made nor the meringue added, turn out as soon as half frozen, or as wet snow. When Fruit Flavors are used, add them to the syrup when partially cooled, or place in dish in a pan of hot water and beat tiU melted and then add. Use earthen bowls, crocks, wooden spoons, etc., for mixing as in ice-cream. For ices, a good general rule is pint syrup to each pint fruit juice, or pint and a half Fruit Flavor, and to make syrup, take pint and a half granulated sugar to one pint water, boil fifteen minutes, add half of white of an egg, well beaten, let boil, strain and cool. Any of the fruit shrubs or fruit juices, canned expressly for this, make delicious ices, and juice from can- ned plums and all the berries may be used with good results. The above is one rule, but we give many different recipes that have been successfully used, making different grades of richness, flavoring, etc., although care must be taken not to make too sweet as it will not freeze as readily. Ices are usually served in glasses as illustrated,but if molded, must have a small quantity of dissolved gelatine added to enable them to keep their shape. After mold is filled make air-tight by placing a piece of writing paper around the edges, and then shutting cover of mold upon it ; bind and pack as directed, and when ready to serve wipe the ice and salt off mold very carefully and dip in cold water. Ices when frozen should be perfectly smooth and soft enough to yield easily to the spoon, if brittle or solid it is an indication that too much water has been used. A pretty orna- mentation for them is made by preparing a gelatine jelly in the usual manner, then reduce by slow boiling to little more than half, color as desired, strain, flavor, and cool on large platters, pouring it about . third inch thick ; when cold cut out with any of the vegetable cut- ters, leaves, flowerB,etc., place on the molded ices and also garnish with them when served. This is equally ornamental for ice-cream. Any fresh fruit cut in pieces, or candied or preserved fruit, or nuts, the last three prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, may be added just before molding, or if not molded just before serving the ice. It is Dish of Ices. ICES AND iCE-CREAM. 409 especially necessary with ices that they be beaten up well before dishing from freezer, and in using canned fruit use less water in proportion to fruit. Apple Ice. — Grate, sweeten and freeze yellow bellflower apples ; canned apples may be mashed and prepared in same way. JPears, peaches or quinces can also be frozen as above. Or make a syrup of three pints of water and four teacups sugar ; let cool. Quickly slice unpared, tart and nicely flavored apples, then chop, mash and rub through wire sieve until a pint of pulp and juice is obtained, which add immediately to syrup ; freeze, add meringue and finish as directed. Peach, Pear, Apricot, Cherry, Nectarine and Plum Ices are made in same manner. Canned fruit may be used with less water in syrup and if Fruit Flavor is used, take proportion as given. Apricot Ice. — Cut in pieces two cups best apricots and stew with the blanched kernels in two cups water and one cup sugar un- til tender, then rub through sieve and put in freezer. Freeze, and when partly frozen beat in well-frothed whites of two eggs, or the meringue as described above, and finish as directed. Just before serving stir in cup sliced apricots. Canned apricots may be used with their syrup using less water. Peach Ice may be prepared in same way. Cherry Ice. — Take two quarts sweet cherries, one of water and three teacups sugar. Pound fruit in mortar so as to break the stones and strain the juice through a fine strainer. Boil the cherry pulp with some of the sugar and water to extract the flavor from the ker- nels, and rub that through the sieve ; mix all together and freeze. This may be molded with a nut cream by lining a mold with the ice and filling the middle with the cream; bind and pack as directed. Or if served direct from the freezer, place the ice as a border in the individual dishes aud the nut ice-cream in the center. This is a nice way to serve difierent creams and ices. Citron Ice. — Make two quarts rich lemonade, well flavored with the rind ; if grated rind is used, the lemonade must be strained before putting in citron. Slice enough citron thin and small to loosely flll a half-pint -measure, and add to lemonade. Let boil a moment, or if made previous evening, this will not be necessary ; cool, freeze, and when partly frozen add the meringue and finish as directed. Preserved Watermelon can be used in same way. Currant Ice. — Boil down three pints water and a pound and a half sugar to a quart, skim, add two cups currant juice, and when partly frozen, add whites of five eggs. 410 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. Oooseberry Ice. — ^Stew gooseberries until soft, squeeze through, ice-cream strainer, and to every pint juice add pint and a half gran- ulated sugar and pint water ; mix well, and freeze ; when half frozen add whipped whites of three eggs. Orape Ice. — Stew a cup ripe Concord grapes, mash with a pint sugar, add juice of a lemon and pint water, strain and freeze. Lemon Ice. — To one pint lemon juice, add one quart sugar, and one quart water,' in which the thin rind of three lemons has been allowed to stand until highly flavored ; when partly frozen add the whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Or prepare nine lemons and three oranges, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, being very careful to extract every seed, as they cause a bitter taste. To a syrup made of quart and a half water and four^teacups sugar add lemon juice, will be about half pint, and half as much orange, and when partly frozen add the meringue of one egg ; prepare zest from only half the lemons. Serve in glasses with tablespoon meringue, (whites of two eggs beaten well with two tablespoons sugar), flavored with orange juice, on each glass. Orange Ice. — Make as above, using nine oranges and one lemon ; when frozen fill in the orange fruit cases and place in Ice-cream Cave for three or four hours, and it is then made more delicious by covering the ice in each case with a meringue and browning quickly with a red hot salamander, serving immediately. The orange pulp taken from cases can be used in obtaining juice. Or make a thick syrup by boiling two teacups sugar with teacup water ; divide thre& of the oranges, after peeling, by the natural divisions, and drop the pieces into the boiling syrup, first extracting the seeds ; grate the yellow zest of the remaining three oranges into a bowl and squeeze m the juice; then pour the syrup from the scalded slices into the bowl, and keep the slices on ice, to be added last. Add quart water and juice of a small lemon to sj'rup, strain and freeze. When partly frozen whip four whites firm, stir them in and beat up the iqe till it looks- like cream ; cover closely and pack with more ice and salt, and when done mix in gently the orange slices, without breaking them. Serve in ice-cups, glasses or saucers. Raspberry and Strawberry Ice can be made as above, using with the lemon juice, a little orange juice also in the strawberry. Peach Ice. — Make a syrup or not as liked, in proportion as given in directions and add one can or twelve fresh peaches well mashed. When frozen add beaten whites of three eggs and finish as directed. Or, peel and quarter the fresh peaches, add sj'rup, and put at once in mold, having first placed some of the slices of peaches in bottom of mold ; cover, bind and pack for five or six hours ; cream and sugar may be used instead of the syrup, making Peaches and Cream Ice. Whipping the cream is an addition. ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 411 Pine-apple Ice. — Bruise a half pound fresh pine-apple in a mortar, add juice of one lemon, half pint water, pint clarified syrup, strain and freeze, adding the meringue when half frozen if wished. For Tutti Frutti Ice, place a layer of Lemon or above ice in a Brick mold, making it quarter full, and place in ice and salt ; then mix an equal portion each candied apricots, cherries, strawberries or any fruits wished, and blanched almond or pistachio nuts, pre- pared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, in all about a pound of mixture, with a quart of Strawberry or Orange Ice, and add to mold till three- fourths full ; smooth and add of first ice^ Lemon or Pine-apple, till full to overflowing. Bind and pack as directed for three or four hours. Preserved fruits may be used, prepared as in ice-cream directions, and a little preserved ginger or angelica root is a choice addition. Use other ices also, according to difierent tastes. Snow Ice. — Add quarter pound sugar to half pint cream, and flavor highly with vanilla or lemon ; if lemon juice is used, more sugar will be required. Stir in newly-fallen snow until thick as ice- cream, and any kind of fruit juice may be used instead of cream. In either case the snow must not be added until just before serving. Strawberry Ice. — Nice sound fruit should be obtained, stems removed, and the berries gently wiped perfectly clean and dry ; then put into a dish, and place pulverized sugar over them, stirring with a wooden spoon until fruit is slightly mashed. Rub pint pulp with gill and a half juice through wire sieve, add pint clarified syrup ,„/\i<\r\ Ayv, /^^ ^"^^ freeze. Pour into small glasses, and arrange in dish as illustrated, on a foun- dation of green leaves ; or mash two quarts strawberries with two pounds sugar ; let strawberry Ice. staud an hour Or morc, squeeze in a crash strainer, pressing out all juice, add equal measure water ; and when half frozen, add the white of one egg beaten with tablespoon pulver- ized sugar. Colorings. — '^ ox Blue rub" a piece of indigo with a little water and add by drops to the mixture to be colored until the desired shade is reached. For Brown use grated chocolate, or for a very light brown, Caramel, which is prepared for immediate use by put- ting cup granulated sugar in iron skillet or frying-pan set over fire, and stirring constantly until a dark brown color and as thick as molasses. When properly done a cup sugar will make five table- spoons coloring. When preparing for bottling, boil a longer time, then add a half pint water and boil again, until a little cooled in saucer is found thick as molasses or honey. If too thick, or if it candies, add a little more water and boil again. _ Bottle, and if kept corked it will never spoil. For Green use either the Parsley or Spinach Coloring, given on page 180. For Pink use strawberry, currant or cranberry juice or jelly. If a bright Bed is desired, mia 412 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. one drachm each pulverized alum and cream tartar, four drachms powdered cochineal, two ounces loaf sugar and saltspoon soda ; or same proportions in level tablespoons are two-thirds tablespoon pul- verized alum, half tablespoon cream tartar, two and a half of pow- dered cochineal, four of pounded loaf sugar and the saltspoon soda; boil ten minutes in half pint pure soft water and when cool bottle and cook for use. For Yellow, use the juice of a carrot or the grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice or a lit- tle water, and squeezed through a cloth. When a deeper color is wanted boil a little American saffron with a little water till a bright yellow, strain and cool, and use enough to give desired shade ; some use a mixture of an ounce turmeric with four of deodorized alcohol, shaking till dissolved and then straining and bottling. No objec- tion can be made to the use of any of the above, save perhaps to the blue, which is very seldom used, and only for Ornamental Icing. The others are all fruit or vegetable preparations, and their use adds greatly to the handsome appearance of ices and ice-creams, icing, jellies, cakes, creams and pudding and other sauces. To guard against getting in too much coloring, use by putting in a very little at first, mixing well, then add a very little more until desired shade is obtained. Gopher Orange Ice — Make a syrup of three pints water and one quart sugar ; when cool add two gills lemon juice and three of orange juice ; freeze and when half frozen add white of one egg, beat- en well with tablespoon sugar. Thoroughly beat it with the ice, finish freezing and serve. Strawberries or slices of pineapples gently stir- red through ,;ws<5e/b re serving (if added too long before, they "freeze and are unpleasant to eat) make a delicious variety. Pine-avple Ice may be made of canned pine-apple using pint of juice, and gill lemon juice with above proportion of syrup, adding the pine-apple cut in dice just before serving, if wished. With all ices it is always better to add a gill of lemon juice, as the acid assists in the freezing and also adds to the flavor. Any proportions of the recipe may be made ; above makes about two dozen dishes. ICING. 413 ICING. Nothing adds more to the elegance of a well spread table then a handsomely iced and ornamented cake, which with a little care and painstaking can as well be prepared at home as ordered from the caterer, and at much less expense. For a plain quickly made icing for a loaf of cake of ordinary size take white of one egg and eleven heaping teaspoons pulverized sugar. If obtainable, use the confectioners' sugar known as "XXX." Be careful not to get in any of the yolk of the eggs, as then the icing will not beat up well, and be sure the bowl, spoon or spatula, and all utensils used are perfectly free from grease. Beat well, and do not attempt to make the icing thick and stiff by adding sugar alone, or it will run. Good icing de- pends upon good beating as well as quantity of sugar. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and add pulverized sugar gradually, beating all '■°°'*™ ^f*'"''- the time. A wooden spatula is better than a spoon for beating in the sugar. There are various opinions about the length of time icing should be beaten, some giving half an hour, others a much shorter time. Some break the whites into a broad platter and at once begin adding sugar, and keep adding gradually, beating well all the while until all sugar is dissolved and the icing is perfectly smooth. Thirty minutes' beating ought to be sufficient. Lastly, add flavoring, rose, pine-apple or almond for white or delicate cake, and lemon or vanilla for dark or fruit cake. The same amount of material, prepared with the whites of eggs unbeaten, will make one- third less icing than if the eggs are beaten to a stiff froth before adding the sugar; but those who prefer this method think the icing is enough smoother and softer to pay for the extra quantity required. There is a medium method much used by the best of 414; TCING. housekeepers ; the eggs are beaten to a slight foam, sugar added gradually, or all at once, and when thoroughly incorporated, flavor and use. Sometimes the whites of eggs will not froth readily, when add a pinch of alum, sugar, salt or soda ; a teaspoon lemon juice or a little citric acid whitens icing, and the white of one egg whipped separately and beaten in just before putting on the cake makes the icing smooth and glossy. A little corn-starch helps to thicken ic- ing. If the flavor is lemon juice, allow more sugar for the additional liquid. Have the icing ready when the cake is baked and be sure that it is thoroughly beaten before removing cake from oven ; if pos- sible, have some one beating while cake is being removed. Invert a common tin milk -pan, placing it on a clean paper, so that if any icing falls off it can be used again, then place the cake on the pan, trim off all unsightly excrescences with a clean, sharp knife and ap- ply icing, pouring it around the center of the cake and smoothing off as quickly as possible with a knife ; it should run over the cake, be- coming as smooth as glass, and adhere firmly to it. If the icing is a little stiff dip the knife in cold water. Dredging the cake well with flour when taken from the oven and wiping carefully before ic- ing will keep the icing from running ; when icing only the top of cake, place a rim of stiff white paper around it to keep the icing in place until it sets. If but one person is engaged in preparing cake and ic- ing, and must necessarily stop beating while getting the cake in readiness, it will be best to beat the icing a iew minutes again be- fore placing on cake. As eggs vary in size, some common sense must be used in the quantity of sugar. Practice only will teach just how stiff icing ought to be. An excellent proportion is three-fourths teacup pulverized sugar to the white of one full-sized egg, but more sugar is sometimes required. In preparing for a large party, when it is inconvenient to ice each cake as it is taken from the oven, and a number have become cold, place in the oven to heat before icing. If wanted very nice, put the icing on in two coats, letting the first dry before putting on the second, when the icing left may be suffi- ciently thinned with water, if necessary, to work smoothly, or more icing may be prepared, taking care to have it just soft enough to run smoothly, and yet not run off cake — better to be a little too stiff than too thin. Tp apply the second coat, place the icing in a lump in center of cake, and let it run level of its own accord ; or if a lit- ICING. 415 tie stiff,, spread it out with a knife, taking care not to spread it quite to edge of cake (within a quarter of an inch), as it will run to the edge of itself; if it is not fully smooth, place a knife under the cake and shake it a little, which will cause all the rough parts to become smooth. To ice the sides of the cake, add a little more sugar to the icing, and beat it in well ; then with the knife place it on the sides of cake until fully covered ; and by holding the knife perpendicularly, with the edge to the icing, and the back leaning a little towards the icing, draw it all around the side of the cake ; when it comes round to the starting point, suddenly givd" the knife a twist, and turn the back from the icing, and at the same time and by the same motion, remove the edge from contact vrith the icing. If this is done neatly and quickly one will hardly be able to find where it is joined. The cake now needs only to be dried, and it is ready for the ornamental icing or piping. Ornaments, such as gum drops, candies, orange flowers or ribbons should be put on while the icing is moist. It is nice when the frosting is almost cold, to take a knife and mark the cake in slices. Alrtiond Icing. — Blanch half pint sweet almonds by putting them in boiling water, taking off skins, and spreading upon a dry Dloth until cold ; pound a few of them at a time in a mortar till ^^'ell pulverized : mix carefully whites of three eggs and three-quarters pint powdered sugar, add almonds, flavor with a teaspoon vanilla or lemon, ice the cake and dry in a cool oven or in the open air when weather is pleasant. Or take two cups sugar, pour over a half cup boiling water, cook until ropy ; beat_ whites of two eggs, stir into sugar and beat until cold ; add flavoring extract (bitter almonds is best), and one and a half cups blanched and chopped sweet al- monds. Boiled Icing. — Beat white of one egg to a stiff froth ; boil one cup granulated sugar and one-half gill or four tablespoons water till it threads when dropped from spoon. Pour in a fine stream while boiling hot, into the beaten egg, stirring briskly all the time and con- tinue stirring the mixture in the "ro,und and round" way, never stop- ping till icing is thick and cold. Flavor as liked. For OonfectioneT'' s Boiled loing^, take whites of six eggs and beat to a stiff froth with half pound sifted granulated sugar. Boil another half pound sugar with a pint water (adding piece of cream tartar size of a pea) until a drop taken on the finger (first dip the finger in cold water) will pull into a fine thread? by touching with the thumb. Then pour this 416 ICING. into the whites of eggs, stirring very swiftly to cook all alike, and lastly add six ounces sifted XXX sugar. Or, boil three-fourths pint granulated sugar, moistened with four tablespoons hot water, briskly for five minutes or until it "jingles" on the bottom of the cup when dropped into cold water, or "ropes" or threads when dropped from the end of spoon. Then with left hand, pour the boiling syrup upon the well-beaten whites of three eggs in a small stream, while beating hard with right hand. This is an excellent frosting and may be flavored as liked. If preferred, add half pound sweet almonds, blanched and pounded to a paste, or a cup of hickory-nut meats, chopped fine, and it will be delicious. Some also add half cup stoned and chopped raisins. This will ice the top of two large cakes. An- other method is to beat whites of four eggs with one and one-third pints powdered sugar, stir in a cup water and boil all together until thick and creamy, adding flavoring after taking from fire. For Boiled Icing Without Eggs, boil a cup granulated sugar four or five min- tes with five tablespoons milk. Stir on ice or in cool place until cold and creamy, and wait until cake is cold before icing. Economical, and preferred by some to that with eggs. Any of the above recipes makes a nice Chocolate Icing with the addition of grated chocolate to tq,ste. Chocolate Icing. — Six rounded tablespoons grated chocolate, one and a half cups powdered sugar, whites of three eggs ; beat whites but very little (they must not become white), add chocolate, stir it in, then pour in the sugar gradually, beating to mix it well. An- other method used by confectioners is to put the desired quantity of Baker's eagle cocoa in a pan and place it in boiling water until cocoa is dissolved, then add powdered sugar to taste, and beat it in well ; to give a gloss add also the whites of two eggs, slightly whipped, to every pound of cocoa used ; beat the sugar and whites of eggs weU together, and with a knife spread the cocoa (or rather the chocolate now that it has the sugar in it, for chocolate is simply cocoa sweet- ened ) , evenly on the cake ; be as quick as possible, for as soon as it cools it hardens. If simple Cocoa Icing is wanted use the cocoa and whites of eggs only ; but if sweet or chocolate icingj add sugar. To help a little in first attempt, add one tablespoon hot water to a pound cocoa ; this will keep it moist and liquid a little longer, but it will take longer to harden. What is known as Cream Chocolate Icing is pre- pared in same manner, using half cocoa and half pure cream, and sweetening to taste. In this case use no whites of eggs, but simply dissolve the cocoa as above described, then add sugar, and afterwards gradually stir in cream. Chocolate icing is also used to ice jeUy cakes and other small cakes, and chocolate eclairs ; it may also be used as an icing for anything, and can be piped, ornamented, or decorated with Piping Icing. Cocoa may also be_ mixed with plain icing ; add little or much cocoa as desired,' and it may be used for icing a cake or for piping or ornamenting in the same manner as ICING. 417 other icing. For Chocolate Icing With Oelatine, soak a teaspoon gelatine one or two hours in three tablespoons water. Pour on it one-fourth cup boiling water, and stir in one and two-thirds cups powdered sugar. Grate two squares chocolate and stir into this mixture. Use immediately. For Boiled Chocolate Icing, beat one and two-thirds cups pulverized sugar into unbeaten whites of two eggs. Grate two squares chocolate, and put it and one-third cup sugar and four tablespoons boiling water in small frying-pan. Stir over a hot tire until smooth and glossy, and then stir this into beaten whites and sugar. Enough for two loaves or one layer cake. Or for a much richer icing boil two cups granulated sugar and half cup water together for five minutes and add small cup grated chocolate. When a drop hardens in cold water stir four whole eggs in rapidly, beating all the while. Cook five minutes, stir- ring constantly, and flavor with vanilla, if liked. Does not crack nor break, and for this reason is highly prized. To make Chocolate Caramel Icing, take one cup brown sugar, one square Baker's choc- olate, grated, and, one tablespoon water or milk ; simmer gently twenty minutes, and spread on cake while hot. Or boil half cup milk, cofFee-cup sug>>i;, butter size of an egg and two tablespoons grated chocolate twenxy minutes, or till thick. Flavor with vanilla, or some add a pinch best pulverized cinnamon. To ice small cakes with this, take them on a fork and dip into the icing deep enough to ice both top a«d sides. If to be put together in pyramidal form, ice the bottom anu sides, instead of top, because of the more uniform sur- face. To keep the icing from becoming cold and hard while using, set in a pan of hot water or over steam until all are iced. The above caramel is nice in which to dip the balls made in French Candy. For Spiced Chocolate Icing, warm a half cake chocolate in the oven ten minT-+es ; add a heaping cup of sugar, teaspoon cinnamon, half teaspoon each pulverized cloves and ginger, two teaspoons vanilla, pour in a little water, stir all well together and melt to a smooth paste. CCear Icing. — Mix a cup nice gelatine jelly with a teaspoon lemon juice and whites of two eggs until smooth, and pour over the cake. If the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place for a few min- utes in a moderately warm oven. Confectioner^ s Icing. — Break whites of four eggs into a large shallow platter in a cool room — in summer set on ice — and whip until they foam but do not whiten. Sift in a pound (one and one- third pints) powdered sugar, quite slowly, beating all the time steadily from the bottom so as to bring up every drop of egg at each sweep of the egg whip, and so continue until the mixture is as white and fins as snow, and oSn be cut with a knife as clean and smooth as if it were cake, when it is ready for use. Apply in two coats. Suf- 27 418 ICING. ficient for one large or two small loaves of cake, and those who pre- fer a Hard Icing will find nothing better. Corn-starch Icing. — White of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, ten heaping teaspoons powdered sugar and one of corn-starch. Eggless Icing. — To one heaping teaspoon laundry starch and just enough cold water to dissolve it, add a little hot water and cook in a pan set in hot water till very thick (or cook in a crock ; either will prevent its burning or becoming lumpy). Stir in two and two- thirds cups sugar while the starch is hot ; flavor to taste, and spread on while the cake is a little warm. This should be made the day before using, as it takes longer to harden than when made with eggs, but it will never crumble in cutting, and is excellent. French Icing. — Take white of one egg with twice its bulk in water, about four tablespoons, and beat as stiff as possible ; then add XXX sugar till as thick as plain icing, and teaspoon flavoring. It will take about one pint sugar, or three-quarters of a pound. This is especially nice for layer cakes, and in building sprinkle over each layer any nut meats liked, English walnuts, hickory nuts or blanched almonds, chopped, and for top layer place on in halves. One large egg or two small eggs will ice three layers. Use also for top of large cakes but is not nice for the sides. This is very deli- cious, can be put on in as thick a layer as wished, and is like the French Candy (uncooked), except more water is used ; when making it one can use part for icing and thicken the rest for the candj% Gelatine Icing. — Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three table spoon warm water,add a cup pulverized sugar andbeat until smooth Flavor to taste. Or soak the gelatine in a tablespoon cold water half an hour ; dissolve in two tablespoons hot water ; add one cup powdered sugar and stir until smooth. Glaze Icing. — Stir beaten white of one egg with a little water and set over boiling water until the mixture boils; then put- in a few drops cold water, stir in a cup powdered sugar, boil to a foam and use. Or stir into one pound powdered sugar, one tablespoon cold water ; beat whites three eggs a little, not to a stiff froth, and add to the sugar and water ; put in a deep bowl, place in a vessel of boiling water and heat. It will become thin and clear, afterward begin to thicken. When quite thick take from fire and stir while it cools till thick enough to spread with a knife. This will ice several ordinary sized cakes. Isinglass Icing. — Pour a half cup boiling water on a sheet isin- glass and stand it in warm place to dissolve slowly. "When there is no scum on top add a pound powdered sugar and a heaping teaspoon ICING. 419 corn-starch. When cakes are cold, pour the icing over, smooth it down as little as possible and set away in a cool place to harden. Nice, and much easier than to make icing with eggs. Lemon Icing. — Beat whites of two eggs and two cups sugar to- gether, and add juice and part of the grated rind of two lemons, strained. Or make Confectioner's Icing and add the strained juice and zest of one lemon, with eight tablespoons more powdered sugar. Color if desired with a few drops Yellow Coloring. Orange Icing made s^me, adding also teaspoon lemon juice. Marble Icing. — Cover cake with any plain white icing, let hard- en a little, color some of the icing with chocolate and spread it over the white, and so on as many layers as desired. Spread with a knife and dry in cool oven. Meringue Icing. — A nice icing for pies, puddings, etc., is made by beating the whites of six eggs to a very firm froth, they cannot be beaten too stiff, and if not stiff the meringue will not be good. While beating add a saltspoon salt, and heaping teaspoon powdered sugar; when well beaten stir in well but very lightly half a pound (a little more than half a pint) powdered sugar; with a knife spread a coating of the meringue all over the pie after baking, and if wanted ornamented fill a cone with the meringue icing and proceed to work out some design. When finished return to oven to take a light brown color. Any design may be worked with this as well as with other icing, but the patterns are larger and are done with a cone with a larger portion cut off the point. For centers of meringue pies use such designs as a swan, an ear of corn, an anchor, a "true lover's knot," a Maltese cross, a bunch of grapes, or whatever fancy dictates ; the pie may be decorated with fruit jelly in addition to the Meringue Top. mcriugue piping, putting on the jelly with a cone, and in the same manner as the piping. Chocolate is not used on meringue work, neither is the meringue ever colored except a . light cream ; pink colored sugar is sometimes sprinkled over it. To color pink simply drop a little cochineal color on some granulated sugar, and rub it together until colored, then dry, rub it apart and keep in bottle ready for use. It will keep its color for years. This icing is used on lemon pies, peach pies, etc. Orange Icing. — Mix a half pound powdered sugar with one tablespoonful each orange juice and boiling water, and half the grat- ed rind of an orange ; beat till fine and smooth, strain, and spread on the cake, while still warm, about an eighth of an inch thick, 420 ICING. smoothing it carefully with a wet knife. This is especially nice for sponge cake. Pearl Icing. — Break whites of three eggs in clean china bowl with a round bottom. Add about half pound finest powdered sugar and beat vigorously with a wooden spatula till it begins to thicken, then add level saltspoon cream tartar and one drop indigo blue ; add about quarter pound sugar ; continue beating and add more sugar, a teaspoon at a time, until the icing is as thick as wished, using in all about a pound. Plain Icing. — Beat whites of three eggs until frothy, not white' adding one and a third pints powdered sugar gradually with one hand, beating briskly with the other. Flavor with teaspoon vanilla. Another proportion is whites of two eggs to a half pound sugar (a little more than a half pint), with a little lemon juice or tartaric acid to whiten. When icing sponge cake with plain icing it is an improvement to first grate orange peel over top of cake. Quick Icing. — Put cup sugar into a bowl with a tablespoon lemon juice and unwhipped whites of two eggs, or add the sugar gradually. Beat together until just smooth and pour over the cake ; if the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place in a moderately warm oven. Snow Icing. — Put one pint white sugar, unbeaten whites of three eggs aijd a teaspoon rose or lemon extract into an earthen dish, stir well together and set in saucepan boiling water ; stir con- stantly and cook eight or ten minutes, or until white and glistening. Put on cake while icing is Avarm, as it hardens quickly. Soft Icing. — Mix a half pound finely pulverized, sifted sugar, with a tablespoon boiling water, and the same of lemon or any fruit juice, and spread at once on the cake while still warm from the oven, about an eighth of an inch thick. Especially nice for all kinds of sponge cake, and other light and dry cakes, such as snow cake, etc. Transparent Icing. — Boil a pound granulated sugar with a half pint water until thick as mucilage : then rub with a wooden spoon against sides of pan until white and milky. Stir in one teaspoon vanilla extract and pour while hot over the top of the cake, com- pletely covering it. Tutti Frutti Icing. — Boil a pint granulated sugar with a half cup water until it "threads." Pour this into the well-frothed whites of two eggs and beat till cool; mix together a half pound blanched and chopped sweet almonds, and a quarter pound sultana or seed- less raisins, swelled in hot water, and the same of finely chopped citron, and stir into the icing. Very nice for sponge and "fruit cake. Water Icing.— Take any quantity powdered sugar required, add enough cold water to form a thick paste (it will not take much) ; ICING. 421 beat well, and if too thin so that it runs too much, add a little more sugar. To every pound sugar, add a level teaspoon cream tartar ; when this icing is prepared, spread it with a knife over the cake, and allow it to dry ; then ornament or decorate it with Piping Icing or currant jelly. This water icing may also be colored a light shade of pink with cochineal, or a light cream color with saffron. For a mauve color, add a drop of indigo blue to the pink color ; but none of these colors must be decided, only a simple tint. Water icing is used for tops of pound, sponge and jelly cakes. Tellow Icing. — Take the yolk of one egg to nine heaping tea- spoons powdered sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Use day it is made. Ornamental Icing. Ornamental icing consists in working two or more colors of icing on one surface — such, for instance, as pink and white, or choco- late and white, either with or without the addition of crystallizing. To ice a cake white and pipe or ornament it with pink pipery, or ice it with pink or chocolate icing and pipe it with white icing, would constitute ornamental icing. But there is another method called "inlaid," which consists of (iifferent colored icing on the same sur- face, not simply a different colored piping on icing. To do this take a cone, cut a fine point off; fill it as instructed in Artistic Piping, draw fine lines first straight down one inch apart, then across at same distance at right angles, forming squares one inch across. Fill these in alternately with either white or pink and white, and then chocolate icing or pink and chocolate, which leaves the squares in two colors, as they appear on a chess-board. The icing must be soft enough to just run smoothly ; the lines will prevent it from run- ning together. Any desired pattern may be worked in this manner by simply running a line of piping to form the design, then filling in as above. This may be varied by marking out any design, and with a small pastry brush washing it over with white of egg or gum- water, then covering with fine granulated sugar, either white or colored ; or cover it with powdered chocolate or rolled rock candy, either pink or white ; shake off what will not stick, and the design will be covered with sugar; pipe around the edge of the design with a fine cone of Piping Icing, and it is complete. 422 OENAMENTAL ICING. Crystallization. — Simply cover the cake while the icing is wet with granulated sugar, white or pink. Or use pink_ or white sugar or rock candy crushed. To crystallize only a portion of the icing, and that in any particular design, first allow the icing to dry, then wash the part to be crystallized with white of egg or gum-water, and cover with sugar ; then shake off what will not remain on. Artistic Piping with Diagrams. — For the benefit of those who wish to excel jn the art of ornamenting bride or other cakes with icing, technically called "piping," a sheet of diagrams is given which almost explains itself, and will require but Uttle study by those having a taste for artistic work, and by mastering this sheet of diagrams before attempting anything more elaborate, one will soon be able to ornament a cake equal to an expert. This applies to all kinds of ornamenting, as it is all done in the same manner, no mat- ter whether the material used be butter, lard, or savory jelly for the decoration of tongues, roast chicken, hams, etc., or sweet jelly, choco- late or sugar for the ornamentation of all kinds of cakes. To use jelly for decorating or piping cakes, set in a place where it will get just warm enough to pass through the cone with a gentle pressure ; in cold weather it is well to also beat it with a spoon, making it of uniform consistency. When ready for use fill cone with it, and proceed as directed for piping, using cone as if it contained icing. Piping Icing. — Prepare in same manner as plain icing, but make stiff enough to retain its shape, or at least so that it will not run smoothly by adding a little more sugar (a teasjioon perhaps), and a little extra beating. To use it, fill the meringue bag already described in confectionery, or have ready some paper cones, made by folding or rolling up a piece of paper in form of a cornet, and se- curing joint with a little mucilage or white of eggs (see No. 1, in page of diagrams) ; with a sharp knife cut ofi" point of cone so as to leave hole any size needed, from a pin's size to half an inch in diameter (see 2, for plain round work). If a star is wished (3), cut off point of cone to form an aperture equal to center of star, then cut out points, as shown in 22. If for a leaf, cut as shown in 24. To save trouble of cutting cones use little brass tubes, made for the purpose, to be had at a cost of from ten to fifteen cents each. In using these cut off point of paper cone large enough to allow tube to come through half its length. Fill the cones three-fourths full with pre- pared icing, fold down top securely, so the icing will not force back, and commence the ornamentation. Have the cake ready iced, and mark out with a lead-pencil as lightly as possible the design on the cake ; then go over design with the cones of icing, as hereafter described, until the design is complete. It is of course necessary to have first mastered the diagrams in order to so arrange the vari- ous ones as to form a harmonious whole and produce an artistic design. QQOO oooo . ooooOObooooo ^oOOOOO(/ /^^O^ SIAGEAMS. 423 424 ORNAMENTAL ICINS. To practice the use of the cones, procure a perfectly smooth walnut board, about twelve inches square. This being dark and the icing white the work can be easily seen, and if every thing is clean the sugar need not be wasted, as it can be scraped oflf and used for other purposes. Fill a cone with icing, take it in left hand, and place thumb of right hand on the folded part or top ; use thumb to press on cone to force out icing at point, in same manner as when using a syringe. Force out the icing with regular and even pressure, and draw a number of fine lines, as even and straight as possible, by dropping point of cone in left hand corner of board, and with an onward mo- tion, in accordance with the flow of icing, which will be little or much, in proportion to pressure given tube, run it straight on to right hand corner (4). This line can be made larger by pressing harder on cone. Repeat this, giving cone a zigzag motion (5) ; then commence light, gradually increasing pressure, to produce a line small at one end and large at the other (6) ; reverse by beginning heavy and finishing light (7). Disconnect cone from icing, by takiug oif pressure from cone, and giving a quick, sudden upward jerk. Do some cross stringing (8], then 9 to 17; with same cone, held perpendicularly, (pushing the icing out till drop is required size, then suddenly detach in manner above mentioned), drop difierent sized dots (18 to 20) ; then commencing at large end first and gradu- ally drawing fine thread; do No. 21. Take the star cut cone (22), and drop star dots, same as in 18, 19, and 20 ; with a circular or rotary motion, make roses (23) ; then repeat with the star cone all done with plain round cone. Next take the leaf cone (24), and by beginning at large end of leaf first, and gradually drawing to a point, make the leaf as long as desired (25) ; form veins in leaf by giving cone a wavy motion. Then put two together (26), and with star cone add a rose (27), then three leaves and a rose (28) ; then four, as in 29 ; then five, with simple plain dot in center (30). With plain round cone, make 31, adding 21 for top finish ; with same cone, make stems of 32 and 33, and with leaf cone add leaves. Do the same in 34, adding a ring of dots, also a rose, with star cone ; next, vrith same plain round cone, do 35, by giving cone a wavy motion ; also 36, by giving it a sudden jerk, first to left, then to right, then straight down middle, as shown in 37. This seems a good deal on paper, but can all be done on a board very easily if one has the patience to go slowly at first. Having gone thus far, one may now form an original design by making whatever combination fancy dictates, from the scrolls, lines, curves, etc., shown in diagrams ; it may be somewhat crude at first, but practice will make perfect. As an example, which will explain the whole, first make a simple combination, producing a bunch of grapes. With leaf cone make four loaves (38),and with plain round ORNAMENTAL ICING. 425 cone add stem ; also, with same kind of cone, only cut a little larger to make a larger drop, add grapes by making a succession of dots, gradually making higher in the middle (39) ; then as a finish, with plain small cone add the scroll shown running over the grapes. An- other illustration : To make a large leaf, in imitation of those used on bride's cake, first mark the outline of leaf (40), and with plaiii round cone run cross lines, as shown in 8, also in 41 ; then with plain round cone add the edge in dots, shown in 20 and 42. For further illustration, see cut for top of jelly or other cake (page 429) made up of grapes and leaves described. Heavy and light work may be done with same cone by adding pressure; for instance, if using a cone with fine point, by drawing with a regular motion and even pressure, a line of icing is produced the same size as the hole though which it comes ; but if the cone is drawn along slower than icing comes out, a heavier line results ; to make a very fine line with same cone, use even pressure, but draw cone along very fasti ; bear in mind there is a limit to size, and when that is reached to press harder will burst the cone ; when the limit is reached, if a larger flow is wanted have another cone with larger opening at point. This applies to all shapes, whether round, star, or leaf. The cone may be used same as a pen, pressing heavy and light ; for example, if making a scroll, like 11, with fine round cone, when the bend of scroll is reached giving the cone a little more pressure causes more sugar to flow, thus producing the fullness in the curve ; when this is done withdraw pressure and continue as before. Bride's Cake. — ^A reference to the design for bride's cake top, No. 1, will show that it is a combination of the scrolls, etc., given m the diagrams for artistic piping; it is not given as a design or a work of art, but sim- ply to show how those scrolls, etc., can be connected and arranged so as to form a de- sign. After making this, one will be sur- prised to find how easy a task a second will be. Note that this design is made up of 36, 20, 13, 18, 6, 8, and 21 of the diagrams ; also note that two leaves are of one pattern and two of another. When pip- ing cake make all four leaves of same Brida'BOateTop.No. 1. pattcm, whichevcr preferred. The two are given simply to illustrate the diagrams. A cut for the side of cake is given for refer- ' ence if wished to pipe the side. This is 17 in sides ar cakes. the diagrams, and the bottom is finished off with simple, plain round dots (2 in diagrams), all of one size. The cut for bride's cake top No. 426 ORNAMENTAL ICING. Bride's Cake Top No. 2. 2 18 more correct as a design, and should be attempted after practicing on design No. 1. These designs will answer for top of any cake as well as bride's cake ; and for latter, use nothing but white icing, and white piping, and in the center marked "for i' ' ' ic Cm, j' ^^^ vase," insert a vase for bouquet, or spray of Sf ^ >■ *S'"*w5>e Om flowers. The addition of a few sugar- roses Sf^ "^^ilS4.j*J cf ^^^ silver leaves, procurable at all confec- Tp< ^pr^*" ^ p tioners, will add to the effect. Place the cake on a lace paper, on a silver or plated salver. The use of orange blossoms is not imperative in the decoration of bride's cake, though generally used. It is also admissible to use pink roses or other flowers, very spar- ingly, or even yellow to match with the orange blossoms, or in place of them ; but use none rather than too many. If the side of bride's cake is not piped, place a silver band round it. This can be pro- cured of any confectioner. Dessert Cake. — This consists of either a pound or sponge cake mixture baked in a high mold ; if no other is at hand use an ice- cream mold as represented in cut. Thoroughly clean and dry the mold", then warm and butter it with a brush (by warm- "" ing it the butter goes in all parts), turn it bottom up to drain out all excess of butter, dust with sifted flour, giving it a knock to remove any excess of flour ; place it, small end down, in a tin or pasteboard box to pre- vent its falling over, fill it three-fourths full with the cake mixture and bake in steady heat. Remove it from mold, and when cold, if to be ornamented, have ready some icing thin enough to just run smoothly but not run oflf. Place cake on a plate, and with a spoon place the icing on top of cake, and let it run down the sides; continue this until all parts are covered ; let it drain jj^^^ cse. down a minute or so, then place a knife under bottom of cake, remove to another plate, and set in warm place to dry. This method of icing shows, up the pattern of^^ the cake nicely. To ornament the cake, simply pipe it, as before described, allowing pattern of cake to be the guide ; where there is no pattern ornament it as fancied, but usually the pattern of cake will furnish the design. In an ice-cream mold there is not much pattern further than fluting. A cut of one baked in a pyramid ice- cream mold is given, together with some idea as to how to ornament it. Where the dots appear, substitute red and yellow gum drops, if desired. " When the cake is piped set it on a plate or salver on lace paper, place a bouquet or spray of flowers on top and add a few silver ORNAMENTAL ICING. 427 leaves. It looks very pretty iced a light pink and piped in white ; but do not use chocolate icing, as it sets so soon, unless pretty well accustomed to it. Jelly Cake. — Trim off edge of cake, and give it a thin coating of Water Icing, have a cone of Piping Icing ready and proceed to work out the design given in cut. After making that, any other can be easily made. With cone of white icing or pink, if preferred, pipe on the white lines in cut and fill in between these lines with fruit jelly, using a cone filled with jelly; next, with the leaf cone pipe lOn the leaves for the grapes, as de- scribed in diagrams for Artistic Piping, ' No 38 ; then with plain round cone pipe on the grapes, as described in No. 39, in diagrams. The edge is simple plain dots of white icing; see diagram No. 2. The bunch of grapes may be piped on with fruit jelly instead of jeuy Cake Top. iclug ; chocolate icing instead of ■water icing may also be used for the top. Then pipe in icing and jelly as before, or ice with jelly instead of either chocolate or water icing. In that case, where jelly was used between the white lines of icing, use chocolate or pink icing. Or ' dispense with the top icing of either jelly, chocolate, or water icing, if wished, and simply work out the design as shown in the white piping and jelly. But the above is most artistic. Charlotte Russe. — This may be made of either sponge or pound- cake mixture, and baked in a fancy mold, but if this is not at hand an ordinary two-quart ice-cream mold will answer the purpose. Af- ter being baked and completely cooled, carefully scoop out the inside, leaving the walls an inch thick, and fill with whipped cream or russe filling. Ice the cake with thin icing, either pink or white, and pipe in contrasting colors. Thus, if iced white, it should be piped pink, and vice versa. Further ornamentation can be made by a proper dis- tribution of pastilles, crystallized fruits, etc., and the whole surmounted by a small spray or bouquet of flowers. Another way of making is to use stale sponge or pound-cake ; first cut the base with a sharp knife (see figure 1 in cut), then a piece as in figure 2, then figure 8. Then hollow out cake as above, (see dotted line in 1 and 2) and fill with cream ; then piece 3 is added and secured. Next take a thin piece of cake, not more than a quarter of an inch 428 ORNAMENTAL ICING. in thickness, and cut out pieces 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, and set aside for ^ future use. Then take the artist's spatula and cover the ^^ whole russe with red or some other colored jelly. This done, <^ ^ place on the pieces 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, in their respective . C23 places — the jolly will hold them. Leave the cut part out- Y^\ p, side, so that none of the baked parts will show, and the de- I I L^ sired effect is produced. Next pipe and otherwise ornament the russe as heretofore directed and finish the whole by adding a spray or bouquet of flowers on top, or with a bouquet ^|L of leaves piped on with a leaf tube. Another way W^ to make the russe is to cut the base out of ^k a solid piece of cake ; make the hole and fill with ^H cream ; lay on that a thin piece of cake. Then with JHk a cone and tube pile up the cream in pyramid Mk^ shape. Have ready six strips cut the proper jffiM shape, *. e., the same width at the bottom as one JSk^. of the six sections of the base, and gradually j^B^I^^ tapering to the top. Place these pieces in their J^^^^^sL. proper position, fasten them with a little icing, J^^^^^^a cover the whole with jelly, as in the other case, ^ ^M^^ pliiSQ , or leave plain. In either case pipe and otherwise ^*^======ifis ornament it. If preferable, place the strips to charlotte Emse. form piece 3, securing them with icing ; then force cream through the opening on top. Chantilly Custard. — The plates from 1 to 4, inclusive, show the manner of making the receptacle for the custard, which is thus j^^^^k^ V- described : First, procure a mold for sponge-cake /T'r'''"''"'""'i i\" or jelly, about one quart or three pints size, with a / If Ij \ fancy fruit or flower top (see plate No. 1). Bake /' '=J".~".".V.P'' \ in this a cake of sponge or plain pound mixture, ^ ^.^js as preferred, and when baked and cold — it is all the better if kept for a day or two — cut ofi'the top (see figures 2 and 3), and ice it with thin white icing. When thoroughly dry, lightly col- or the difi"erent fruits or flowers with their natural colors. Do not lay on the colors too heavily, or the effect will be spoiled. Next cut out center of cake (see figure 1), and fill cavity thus made with a boiled custard, adding chopped almonds if liked. -^^^^^>. When the custard is set and cold replace the top as in ^^^^T figure 2, and pipe the outside of cake in any way liked, following the " ' "■ design here given, or the design for dessert cake, or selecting from page of diagrams. The light and dark balls ^^^Tr>- ^* *^® bottom of the design given are Snded to represent pink and yellow pastiUes placed alternately ORNAMENTAL ICING. 429 (see figure 6). But a much easier, cheaper, and mor^efifective mode is simply to stick on gum-drops of difierent colors. If a good, clear white gum-drop can be procured use the three colors alternately — red, yellow and white — and the effect is very nice. The beauty of such a piece of work amply repays any lady who has the time and taste, for the trouble of mastering the accom- plishment, and for the small cost of material. The cost of the lat- c^,„„„ ^.^,^_ ter, when compared with the price which would be charged by a professional caterer for a similar piece of work, is very small. Raised Pie. — Make dough as for Meat Pie; roll half inch thick and cut out the base, (2), prick with a fork to prevent blistering, and lay aside on the pan ready for baking. Then prepare the oval bottom, (3), wash over with, egg, and place evenly on cen- ter of base. Now roll out dough, half an inch thick, in a narrow strip, long enough to go all round oval bottom (measure out- side of oval by passing a string around it) ; cut straight and even, one inch wide. Wet ends, which should he cut slanting to make fit closely, and lower edge, and wrap this around the oval piece which lies on base, join- ing ends and bottom edge securely. Now fill case to within half an inch of top with bran, place over it a thin cover of dough (with small hole in center) ; wash the outside (except top, which only serves to keep sides in place,and is not used) with egg, and bake in a moderate oven till brown. When cold, cut out top, turn out bran, and shell _ is ready for filling. To make cornucopias, fold up dough the same as in making a paper cone, and also fill with bran. Bake separately from pie. Now fill shell with a meat or game filling as in Meat Pies : place jelly (cut in pieces one-half inch square) on top (6), and mold, a but- ter lamb and place on top of it, (7). Add the chopped parsley, (8) ; also place the cornucopias in position. Place cut roots (4) one in each cornucopia (9) ; place sliced lemon on top edge and add small root flowers at base of cornucopias, securing them with butter. Pipe side )of pie as illustrated, using butter instead of sugar. 430 JAMS AND JELLIES. JAMS AND JELLIED. It is as important when making jams as whtn canning that only perfect fruit be used, as if fruit has passed tne ripe stage ar.4 begun to ferment in the slightest degree the jam will not keep well. The fruit should be carefully cleaned and thoroughly bruised, as mashing it before cooking prevents it from bacoming hard. Cook in a porcelain-lined or granite iron -ware preserving kettle. Never put f^uit or fruit juice in tin, either to let stand or to cook. Boil the fruit fifteen or +wenty minutes and skim before adding the sugar, s the flavor is thus better preserved, Hsually al- 1 jwing three-quarters of a pound sugar, granulated 3 best, to a pound of fruit — by measure a scant pint sugar to quart whole fruit, or pint when Preserving Kettle, mashcd J and then boil half an hour longer skimming if necessary. Have a plate at hand for the skimmings, which should be added to vinegar barrel, as directed in Economical Vinegar. Use same utensils in making jams as in Canning Fruit, and it is also convenient to have a plate upon which to put spoon, dipper, etc., when not in use. If loaf sugar is used it should be dried and broken into small pieces before mixed with fruit. If left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. Do not remove lid from range, as this will be likely to make the jam burn. To prevent scorching while cooking, jams require almost constant stirring, and every house-keeper should be provided with r, small paddle with handle at right angles with the blade (similar to an apple-butter "stirrer," only smaller), to be used in making jams and JAMS AND JELLIES. 431 marmalades. Jams are usually made from the more juicy berries, such as blackberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc. ; marma- lades from the firmer fruits, such as pine-apples, peaches and apri- cots. Both require the closest attention, as the slightest degree of burning ruins the flavor. They must be boiled sufficiently, and have plenty of sugar to keep well. To tell when any jam or mar- malade is sufficiently cooked, take out some on a plate and let it cool. If no juice or moisture gathers about it, and it looks dry and glistening, it is done thoroughly. Pour in small cans, jar^ or glasses, let cool, and either seal as canned fruit, or secure like jelly, by first pressing paper, cut to fit glasses, dipped in alcohol or brandy, down close on fruit, and then putting on the tin covers ; or if one has not covers, larger papers, brushed on the inside with white of egg, with the edges turned down over the outside of the glasses. Keep in a cool, dry, dark place. Examine every two or three weeks for the first two months, and if there are any signs of mold or fermentation the jam must be boiled over again. When jelly glasses or glass cans are used for either jams or jellies, as a precaution against breaking when the hot mixture is poured in, prepare the cans or glasses as directed mlast method given on page 146 of Canning Fruits. It has recently been found that cotton is one of the best coverings for any preparation of fruit, as neither light, air nor mois- ture easily penetrates it. Make a covering of the cotton for the top of jelly and jam glasses and tie down over the tin covers or papers. Some housekeepers have excellent success in keeping fruit by pour- ing over tops of cans clarified butter or mutton tallow, a half inch thick, or covering to that depth with fine white sugar. This will apply- equally as well to jellies. Apple Jam. — Peel, core- and cut apples in thin slices and put in preserving kettle with three-quarters pound white sugar to every pound fruit ; add a few cloves, a small piece ginger and a thin rind of lemon (tied in piece of muslin), stir with a wooden spoon over quick fire half an hour, when it will be ready to can or put into glasses. Apficot Jam.— Pare as thinly as possible (by immersion is best) and halve three pounds sound, ripe apricots, and take out stones ; place in* deep dish, and strew over half their weight of finely sifted sugar; let stand overnight. Then put them with syrup that 432 JAMS AND JELLIES. will have oozed from them in preserving-kettle, add a few kernels blanched and sliced, and boil very gently half an hour, stirring con- stantly. Put into glasses or cans and cover closely. Or the fruit may be simply stewed tender, and passed through a colander, add- ing sugar, pint for pint ; boil until clear, and put up as above. Blackherry Jam. — Measure or weigh and put fresh ripe berries into preserving-kettle, crush to a pulp with potato masher, and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, or until about half the juice has boiled away, skimming often; add three-fourths pound sugar to each pound fruit and finish as directed. Currant and all Berry Jams made same way. Carrot Jam. — Select young carrots, wash and scrape clean, cut in round pieces, put over fire with water to cover and simmer until perfectly soft ; then press through puree peive, weigh, and for every pound allow pound sugar, grated rind of a lemon, strained juice of two, and six chopped bitter almonds ; put pulp over the fire with sugar and boil five minutes, then add other ingredients and as soon as these are well mixed put up in self-sealing cans. This is an imi- tation of Apricot Preserves, for which it is a very good substitute, but must be put up in thoroughly tight cans, according to directions for Canning Fruits, or it will not keep. Cherry Jam. — Stem and wash cherries and boil till soft in very little water ; put through colander to remove stones, then return to fire, sweeten to taste, boil thick as other jams and put up same. To make a very nice jam, take six pounds cherries weighed before stoning, stone and boil in their juice until nearly dry ; then add four pounds sugar and pint currant juice and boil all together until_ it jellies, which will be in from twenty minutes to half an hour ; skim jam well, keep it well stirred, and a few minutes_ before done, crack some of the stones and add the kernels ; these impart a very deli- cious flavor. Currant Jam. — Pick from stems and wash thoroughly with the hands, put in preserving-kettle and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often, and skimming off all scum ; then add sugar in pro- portions given and finish and put up as directed in preface. The addition of one pound raisins to each gallon currant jam converts this into very fine French Jam. Damson Jam. — Stone the damsons, weigh, and to every pound allow three-fourths pound sugar. Put fruit and sugar over the fire, keep stirring gently until sugar is dissolved, and carefully remove scum. Boil about an hour from the time it commences to simmer all over alike ; it must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to burn and stick to the pan. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears like jelly, it is done. JAMS AND JELLIES. 433 Gooseberry Jam. — Stew nice ripe berries in a little water, press through a coarse sieve, return to the kettle and add three-fourths pound sugar to each pound pulped gooseberry ; boil three-quarters of an hour, stirring constantly ; pour in jars or bowls, and cover as directed in preface.. Some use an equal weight of fruit and sugar. If one prefers to keep the berries whole, put the sugar into kettle and add water enough to melt it ; drop the fruit into the hot syrup and cook until the syrup begins to thicken around the berries. Do not stir but shake the kettle gently occasionally to keep the fruit from burning, and cook until a little jellies when cooled in a saucer. Put up as previously directed. Blackierry Jam is made same way. To make Oooseherry Jam with Currant Juice select the rough red gooseberries, if possible, stem and weigh them and allow a half pint currant juice and five pounds sugar to six pounds fruit ; put goose- berries and currant juice over the fire and heat until fruit begins to break, then add the sugar and keep simmering until the mixture be- comes firm or jellies. Skim carefully, and keep stirring that it may not burn. Grape Jam. — Stem ripe grapes and slip off skins ; put pulp in kettle with cup water and boil until seeds separate ; strain, allow one pound sugar to one pint pulp, put all together in kettle with half the skins, boil until skins are tender, strain and put in glasses. Or simply stew the grapes in a little water, and press through a col- ander or coarse sieve, add sugar in proportion of three-quarters pound to a pound fruit, and finish as directed. Plum Jam, made same way, adding a little water to plums to assist in straining. Green-gage Jam. — To every pound fruit, weighed before ston- ing, allow three-fourths pound sugar. Halve the green-gages, take out stones, and put fruit in preserving kettle; bring to a boil, then add sugar, and keep stirring over a gentle fire till melted ; remove scum as it rises, and just before jam is done add half the blanched kernels and boil rapidly five minutes. Peach Jam. — Peel the peaches thinly with a silver knife, or if not too ripe by immersing in hot water, remove stones and weigh, allowing one-third their weight of sugar. Put in preserving kettle with sugar strewn in, set over fire, bring gradually to a boil and boil gently and steadily two hours, skimming as often as scum rises and stirring occasionally — constantly toward the last to prevent burning. Very ripe peaches, or the sound portion of those partly decayed may be used for jam. Some prefer rather more sugar, and steW the peaches until soft, then put them through a sieve or colander before adding sugar. Pie-plant Jam. — Cut in pieces about one inch in length ; to pound pie-plant, add a pouna sugar : cut it up in the afternoon be- fore it is to be cooked; scatter the sugar over it and let stand 28 ^ 434 JAMS AND JELLIES. overnight ; in the morning drain off the syrup and boil till it thick- ens ; then add the pie-plant and boil fifteen minutes, or till it is done. Or to every pound pie-plant allow a pound sugar and rind and juice of half a lemon ; wipe pie-j)lant dry, cut in small pieces and put over fire with the sugar ; mince the lemon peel very fine ; add it and the juice to the other ingredients and keep well stirred; if very young, boil one hour, if old two hours. It will keep good for years. Omit the lemon and it is called Pie-plant Butter. For Pie-plant and _ Orange Jam, peel six oranges ; remove as much white pith as possible, divide them, and take out seeds ; slice the pulp in preserving kettle, add rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, and the loaf sugar, which should be broken small. Peel one quart pie-plant, cut in thin pieces, add to the oranges, and stir all together over gentle fire until jam is done. Remove all scum as it rises, put the jam into pots, and, when cold, cover. Should pie-plant be very old, stew it alone for quarter of an hour before other ingredients are added. Pine-apple Jam. — To one pound grated pine-apple add three- fourths pound sugar and boil ten minutes. Plum Jam. — Weigh, then halve and stone the plums, spread on large dishes, sprinkle sugar over inthe proportion of three-fourths pound to pound fruit, and let stand one day. Then simmer gently half an hour and boil rapidly fifteen minutes. Remove scum as fast as it raises and stir constantly. May be flavored nicely by cracking a few stones and adding kernels just before jam is done. The sweet varieties of plums do not require so much sugar. Quince Jam. — Boil fruit in as little water as possible until soft enough to break easily ; pour off all water and rub with spoon until entirely smooth. To each pound quince add ten ounces brown sugar, and boil twenty minutes, stirring ofteij. A more elaborate recipe requires seven pounds quinces, two of sour oranges and nine of sugar ; cut quinces into dice and boil with them in one quart water, one-third or less of the orange rind ; when quinces are tender add oranges and sugar and boil fifteen minutes. If sour oranges cannot be obtained use lemons. If quinces are not acid use less , sugar. Very excellent. Raspberry Jam. — Use small or crushed berries, carefully re- jecting all decayed ones; prepare as directed, and allow two- thirds their weight in sugar ; crush the berries in preserving kettle with potato-masher or wooden spoon, and beat well and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, add sugar and finish as in genej-al directions. Or add currants in proportion of one-third currants to two-thirds raspberries ; or use only the juice of currants, half pint to each quart mashed raspberries, and as a substitute two or three tablespoons currant jelly may be well beaten, thinned with a little water and added as the juice. Another method of making is to crush the ber- ries and sugar together, and let stand two or-three hours before cook- JAMS AND JELLIES. 435 ipg, then proceed as above. Make Strawberry Jam same way, al- lowing sugar in proportion of three-fourths the weight of the fruit. Frnit Jellies. Vegetable jelly is a distinct principle existing in fruits, which possesses the property of gelantinizing when boiled and cooled, and is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies, although the name of jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on the subject. When made of gelatine, jellies have no nutrition, and are simply used to carry a palatable flavor, but the fruit jellies are wholesome as well as palatable. Always make in a porcelain or granite iron-ware kettle. Never use tin utensils either in preparing the juice or making the jelly. Use the best refined or granulated sugar, and do not have the fruit, especially currants and grapes, overripe. To make clear, handsome jelly the fruit must be quite fresh and all blemishes removed". Currants and berries must be made up as soon as picked, and should never be gathered imme- diately after a rain, as they are greatly impoverished by the moisture absorbed. Never on any account let them stand overnight. Nearly all fruit jellies may be made in same way, whether currant, plum, crab-apple, gooseberry, quince, apple, peach or grape, using less su- gar for the sweeter fruits. The first five fruits mentioned jelly very easily and quickly, and the others will give no trouble if directions are faithfully followed. Cherries will not jelly alone, and must be mixed with one-fourth their quantity of currants, or gelatine may be used with them, an ounce to a quartof juice. All fruit forms into jelly more readi- ly if not quite ripe. Have the flannels and cloths used for straining perfectly clean and white, and the strainer stand illustrated will be found a great conven- ience. The cut explains itself, and the stand can be made by any one at all fa- miliar with the use of tools. To extract the , juice, place frtiit in kettle with just enough water to keep from burning, or bruise with potato masher until enough juice starts for the same purpose, stir often, and let remain Strainer Stand. 436 FRUIT JELLIES. over fire until thoroughly scalded; or a better but rather slow- er method is to place it in a stone jar set in kettle of tepid water, boil until fruit is well softened, stirring frequently, and then strain a small quantity at a time through a strong coarse flan- nel, crash or cotton bag, wrung out of hot water, after which let it drain, and squeeze it with the hands as it cools, emptying the bag and rinsing it off each time it is used. A three-cornered bag is best and there is not so much need of pressing a bag of this shape, the weight of the fruit in the large part causing the juice to flow freely at the point. Press occasionally at the top and sides if necessary, but the jelly will be clearer if the juice is allowed to drain through without squeezing. The small salt bags do nicely for straining a small quantity and can be kept for this purpose. If jelly is wanted very nice, strain the juice again through a clean cloth, then return it to the clean preserving kettle. The larger fruits, such as apples and quinces, should be -cut in pieces, cores removed if at all defective, water added to just cover them, boiled gently until tender, turned into bag and placed to drain for three or four hours, or overnight. Make not over two or three pints of jelly at a time as larger quanti- ties require longer boiling. As a general rule allow equal rgeasures juice and sugar. Some boil juice rapidly ten minutes from the first moment of boiling, skim, add sugar, and boil ten minutes longer; but a better way, which insures a clearer jelly, is to spread the sugar in a large dripping-pan, set in oven and stir often to prevent burn- ing ; boil the juice twenty minutes, skimming carefully, add hot sugar, let boil five minutes and pour into the prepared jelly-glasses immediately, as a thin skin forms over the surface when jelly cools, which should not be broken as it keeps out the air, and if formed upon the top of glasses of jelly acts as a preservative. Do not put on paper dipped in alcohol or brandy till jelly is cold, as the skin might thus be broken. This applies to jams when put up in glasses or stone jars. It is always best to test jelly before pouring into glasses, as some fruit juices require longer boiling than others to re- duce to jelly. The simplest test is to take a few drops on a spoon and by holding it in a cool place and turning from side to side one can easily tell when it jellies, as it will jelly on the spoon and not run ; or drop a little in a glass of very cold water, and if it immediately falls to the bottom it is done ; or if when dropped in a saucer and set on ice or in a cool place it does not spread, but remains rounded, it PEUIT JELLIES. 437 is finished. Be careful not to have so hot a fire when boiling as to scorch and so ruin the jelly, and too long cooking after the sugar is added ■will make it dark and strong. Some strain through the bag into glasses, but this involves waste, and if skimming is carefully done is not necessary. A little butter or lard, rubbed with a cloth on outside of glasses or cans, will enable one to pour in the boiling fruit or liquid, the first" spoon or two slowly, without breaking the glass. If jelly is not very firm, let it stand in the sun covered with bits of window glass or pieces of mosquito netting, for a few days. Never attempt to make jelly in damp or cloudy weather if firmness and clearness are desired. When ready to put away, cover as directed for jams. If pulp is wanted for jam do not squeeze the fruit too hard, and it can be made up very nicely. The jelly should be placed in a dry, dark, cool place and examined toward the end of summer, when if there are any signs of fermentation, reboil. Jelly needs more at- tention in damp rainy seasons than in others. When jelly is wanted in its greatest perfection do not squeeze through strainer at first, simply use what will drain through of itself. This will make a beautifully clear jelly. The remainder of the juice may be squeezed through and jelly made of it as usual, but it will not be so nice as that made from the first drippings. Jelly designed for frequent use, as for making jelly cake, sand- wiches, serving with meats, etc., may be put up in stone jars,for which the half gallon is a nice size, but must be carefully covered again each time after opening. Writing paper cut to fit the tops and dip- ped in alcohol or brandy is best for the first covering for jars as well as glasses, then cover as directed in jams. Apple Jelly. — Quarter and core but do not pare nice tart red- cheeked apples', and boil until soft ; then strain with very little pressing and after boiling up and skimming thoroughly add three- fourths the quantity of sugar and boil until it jellies nicely. It will be delicious and of a beautiful pink color. Too ripe apples will make it dark. Some do not add sugar until about five minutes before jelly is done, and if apples are perfectly sound many cook the cores. Green apples are often used for jelly, and a very good article may be made by boiling the parings of apples with the sound cores in as little water as possible until soft, and finish as above. Three-quarters of a pint sugar to a pint juice is the rule of some housekeepers, who 438 FEUIT JELLIES. also clear the jelly with whites of eggs. But if juice is properly- strained and skimmed this should not be necessary. A German method of making is to let the apples boil untouched until they break, then set away in the kettle, if it can be spared, otherwise in an earthen bowl, for three days ; then drain without pressing, add a pound sugar to every pint juice, and boil three-quarters of an hour. Pill glasses, and cover. Some economical housekeepers pare and core the apples and do not strain so closely but that they may be used for sauce or pies. If the flavor of lemon is liked boil half the peel of one with every two dozen apples, but lemon juice is thought by some to render the jelly muddy and thick ; when used strain it in just before jelly is done. If the jelly is wanted light colored peel the apples. Apple jelly, ornamented when put into the molds with preserved greengages or other preserved fruit, turns out very prettily for dessert. Apple jelly is also made very delicious by the addition of orange and lemon iuice, equal parts of both, in any proportion liked, half and half, or one-fourth orange and lemon to three-fourths apple juice. Crab- Apple Jelly. — Wash and quarter large Siberian crabs, but do not core, cover to depth of an inch or two with cold water, and cook to a mush ; pour into coarse cotton bag or strainer, and when cool enough, press or squeeze hard, to extract all juice. "Wring a piece of fine Swiss muslin or crinoline out of water, spread over col- ander placed over a crock, and with a cup dijj juice slowly in, al- lowing plenty of time to run through ; repeat this process twice, rinsing out the muslin frequently. Allow the strained juice of four lemons to a peck of apples, and three-quarters of a pound sugar to each pint juice, though some use a pound sugar to pint juice. Boil the juice from ten to twenty minutes ; while boiling sift mthe sugar slowly, stirring constantly, and boil five minutes longer. This is generally sufficient, but it is alwajra safer to try it, and ascertain whether it will jelly. This makes a very clear, sparkling jelly. The pulp may be made into jam or marmalade. For Transcendent Crah- Apple Jelly, prepare the transcendent or any variety of crab- apples as Cultivated Wild Plums, adding flavoring of almond, lemon, peach, pine-apple or vanilla to the jelly in the proportion of one teaspoon to two pints, or more if wished stronger, just before it is done. Or make without flavoring. Dried Apple Jelly. — Wash carefully two quarts dried apples and let soak in soft water to cover for half an hour ; put on to cook in same water, adding if needed more to cover, and cook two or three hours ; strain the juice, and to every pint add three-quarters pound Bu^ar and juice of two lemons ; boil till when tested it will jelly, then finish as directed. Some add a few raisins to apples when cooking. Apricot Jelly. — Take out stones ftom two quarts apricots, cut in small pieces, and lay them in preserving-kettle with a clove, well FEUIT JELLIES. 439 Eounded, and juice of half lemon ; cover with water, set on moderate re, and boil slowly til^well cooked. Strain, and when juice is all squeezed out, put it in kettle with three-quarters pint sugar to every pint juice ; boil till it jellies. Blackberry Jelly. — Select nice, not over-ripe berries, and pre pare as directed for all jellies in preface, allowmg three-fourths as much sugar as juice, though some use pint for pint. Others prefer to use the berries while still red, but the jelly from fruit in so green a state will wholly lack the delicious flavor of that made from the ripe berries. Cherry Jelly. — Stone and stem a quantity of best cherries, and to every four pounds add one pound red currants ; put into preserv- ing-kettle, place over the fire and reduce all to a mash, stirring all the while with the wooden spatula. Strain by pressing through a hair sieve, and filtering through a jelly bag. To each pint fruit add three-quarters pint or a pint sugar as liked. Place again on fire and boil to a jelly, removing the scum, and fill glasses or jars. A very nice jelly, and excellent for flavoring summer drinks. Oranherry Jelly. — Prepare juice as in general directions, add one pound sugar to every pint, boil and skim, and test by dropping a little into cold water. When it does not mingle with the water it is done. The pVilp may be sweetened and used for sauce. Instead of squeezing to obtain juice some prefer to let the cooked fruit hang in the jelly bag to drip overnight. Then proceed as directed- for all jellies. Currant Jelly. — Do not pick from stem, but carefully remove all leaves and imperfect fruit, place in a stone jar and follow general directions, allowing for each pint juice a pint sugar. Some use a pound sugar to pint juice. Or weigh the fruit and to each pound allow half the weight of granulated or pure loaf sugar. Put a few currants in porcelain-lined kettle, and press with potato-masher, or anything convenient, in order to secure sufiicient liquid to prevent burning; then add the remainder of fruit, and 'boil freely twenty minutes, stirring occasionally, to prevent burning. Take out and strain carefully through the three-cornered strainer above mentioned, putting the liquid into either earthen or wooden vessels. When strained return liquid to kettle, without ' trouble of measuring, and let it boil thoroughly for a moment or so, skim well and add the sugar, which has been heated as directed in preface. The moment the sugar is entirely dissolved, the jelly should be done, and must be immediately dished, or placed in glasses. It will jelly upon the side of the cup as it is taken up, leaving no doubt as to the result. Blacklerry and Strawberry Jelly are made by either of above meth- ods, and a very finely flavored jelly is obtained by mixing red rasp- berry and currant juice, two parts former to one of latter. Make 440 FRUIT JELLIES. Black Currant Jelly as abovej using only half pound sugar to pint juice. Or if the "currants are wished for jam or to dry take pint cur- rants, picked off stem, pint sugar, place m kettle on stove, scald well, skim out currants, strain juice and cook until it jellies. Dry cur- rants on plates, or make into jam, adding half pint sugar with, one- third currants and • two-thirds raspberries. When currants are dried put in stone jars aiid cover closely. To extract currant juice without boiling fruit, crush the fruit with the hands in large earthen bowl, about a quart at once. Pour the currants into the strainer, and when all crushed and draining, stir them about with the hand and squeeze the thin juice from them ; then take about a pint and a half of the crushed fruit at a time in a strong towel and squeeze ; the thick juice that comes at the very last it is well to put aside for currant shrub ; the first can be used with that already strained for the jelly. A jelly of a prettier color is ob- tained by mixing the white and red currants, half and halt. Some take the trouble to make jelly from the white and red currants sep- arately, then harden it in successive layers in glasses. For the pro- cess see directions given for making Ribbon Jell}'. Another pretty arrangementis to melt jelly before serving, add little dissolved gelatine, put in mold and set in ice-box or cool place to harden. Some housekeepers report excellent success in making Uncooked Currant Jelly: To one pint currant juice from raw fruit, add a pint granu- lated sugar ; stir the juice very slowly into the sugar until sugar is dissolved, then let stand twenty-four hours and it will be stiff jelly. Turn into glasses, cover with a thin covering and set in the sun two or three days, then cover as directed and put awaJ^ Half a bushel of currants makes twenty-two and one-half pint glasses of jelly. Ulderberry Jelly. — One quart elderberries, one pint watei : boil together a few minutes, then press through a towel till all juice" is extracted ; one quart crab-apples and one pint water boiled to- gether, and juice extracted in same way; the apples should be cut once or twice through before boiling ; mix juice of both together, and for every pint juice take one pound white sugar and boil about ten or fifteen minutes, till it will jelly nicely ; elderberry juice will not jelly when taken alone, but by adding the juice of apples a beautiful jelly is made. Four-Fruit Jelly. — Take equal quantities ripe strawberries, raspberries, currants, and red cherries ; all should be fullj^ ripe, and the cherries must be stoned, taking care to preserve the' juice that escapes in stoning, and add it to the rest ; mix the fruit together, put into a linen bag, and squeeze thoroughly ; when it has ceased to drip, measure the juice, and to every pint allow a pound and two ounces best loaf sugar, in large lumps. ]Vux juice and sugar together ; Eut them in a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, and boil for half an our, skimming frequently. Try the jelly by dipping out a spoon- FKUIT JELLIES. 441 ful, and holding it in the open air ; if it hardens readily it is suffi- ciently done. Oooseberry Jelly. — To every quart green gooseberries add _ a pint water and boil until bursting and almost a jam. Then strain and proceed as in general directions, adding a pound sugar to each pint juicej Requires longer boiling than most jellies. Juice may be obtained without boiling the ftuit as in Currant Jelly, if preferred, and some let them stand twenty-four hours after cooking before straining, Or hang in jelly bag all night. Grape Jelly. — Prepare fruit and rub through a sieve ; to every pound pulp add a pound sugar, stir well together, boil slowly twenty minutes, then follow general directions ; or prepare the juice, boil twenty minutes, and add one pound sugar to one pound juice after it is reduced by boiling ; then boil ten or fifteen minutes. Or crush the grapes over the fire and do not strain until thoroughly heated through. Or put on grapes just beginning to turn, boil until broken, place in jelly-bag, let drain without pressing and finish as in general directions. Just before jelly is done some add a teaspoon dissolved gum-arabic, or a little gelatine, but .if fruit is not too ripe and the directions heretofore given have been carefully followed this will not be necessary. Some use pound sugar to each pint juice, meas- ured just after straining. Green grapes, about half ripened, are best for jelly. Wild Grape Jelly is ra&diQ same way. Some cook the grapes whole, but if first pulped^ through a sieve, the pulp may be used for jam, marmalade, or be eaten while-fresh for sauce at tea. Muscadine Jelly.— ^qyieeze skins from muscadines, saving all the pulp and juice, and add to each quart a dozen or twenty of the skins, ot enough to give a rich crimson color ; too many will make the jelly dark, and if none are used it will have a muddy color. If there is not sufficient juice to prevent scorching add a little water, set on brisk fire and cook twenty to thirty minutes ; take off and strain through flannel jelly-bag, once only ; add pint sugar to each quart juice, return to fire and boil hard twenty minutes without stirring. Test, boiling until it will jelly, and put away in glasses. Peach Jelly. — Crack one-third of the kernels and put them in the jar with the peaches, which have been pared, stoned and sliced, though some prefer not to pare, and simply rub off the down. Heat in a kettle of boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is well broken. Strain, and to every pint juice add the juice of alemon. Measure again, and to every pint juice add a pound sugar. Heat sugar very hot, and add when the juice has boiled twenty minutes, and been well skimmed. Let it come to a boil and take instantly from the fire. Very nice for jelly cake. Pie-plant Jelly. — ^Wash the stalks well l^t do not peel, cut in- to pieces an inch long,put them into a preserving-kettle with enough 442 FRUIT JELLIES. water to cover, and boil to a soft pulp ; strain through a jelly-bag. To each pint juice add pound sugar ; boil again, skimming often, and when it jellies on the skimmer remove from the fire and put in- to jars. Or after cut in pieces put in crock with a very little sugar and a few spoonfuls water ; place in oven, cover and cook slowly till soft, strain and to each pint juice take pint sugar and finish as in general directions. Some flavor with extract of lemon just before it is done. Pine-apple Jelly. — Pare and grate fruit and to each pound fruit take pound sugar, stir till sugar is dissolved and cook and test as above. Strain into glasses and cover as directed. This is delicious molded and served as a Dessert Jelly, surrounded with sweetened whipped cream if liked. Plum Jelly. — If plums are wild (not cultivated) put in pan and sprinkle with soda and pour hot water over them, let stand a few moments, then stir once or twice ; take out and put on with water just to cover, or less if plums are very juicy ; boil till soft, dip out juice with a china cup ; then strain the rest without squeezing. Take pint for pint juice and sugar, and boil, test and finish as directed in preface. For CulUvated Wild Plum Jelly make as above without using soda. Take plums that are left after straining and press through a sieve and take pint for pint of sugar and pulp, boiling the latter half an hour, and then adding sugar, boiling ten or fifteen minutes more. Half a pint sugar Ao a pint pulp makes a good Plum Marmalade, and one-third pint to pint, boiling it longer, is nice canned and used for pies, adding milk, eggs and sugar as for squash pies. Plum-Amyle Jelly may be made by preparing the juice of crab-apples ancl plums as above, mixing the juice in any proportion wished, half and half, or less of either fruit, and finish as in general directions. The marmalade is made in the same wav as above. Some add a little ginger root. A bushel apples and peck of plums make forty pints jelly ,^ part crab-apples and part mixed, and sixteen quart glass cans of mixed marmalade. In making either kind of jeUy the fruit may be squeezed and juice strained twice through Swiss or crinoline and made into jelly. The pulp can not then be used for marmalade. For a Rich Marmalade take the crab-apple and plum pulp without first straining for jelly and make as in Plum IMarmalade. Quince Jelly. — Rub the quinces with a cloth until perfectly smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold water until level with the fruit, boil until very soft but not red ; pour in three-cornered_ strainer and hang up to drain, occasionally pressing to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to press hard enough to expel the palp ; some let it hang overnight. To a pint juice allow pint sugar, and boil fifteen minutes, or until it will jelly : pour into tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general direc- PRUIT JELLIES. 443 tions. If the quinces are pared and cored before cooking, the pulp can be made into marmalade by adding three-fourths pound sugar, and a fourth pound juicy apples to each pound quinces. If quinces are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with good tart apples, boiled and strained as above, make excellent jelly, and the quinces may be used for preserves. Jtiaspherr}/ Jelly. — Cook red raspberries until the juice separ- ates, then strain and proceed as directed in preface, adding three- fourths as much sugar as juice. Or the juice may be obtained by mashing and straining, without cooking. Care must be exercised in selecting the berries, as if at all over-ripe the juice may not jelly readily. Success is sure, however, if one part currant juice is added to two parts raspberry, and some use half and half. Strawberry Jelly. — Mash the berries and strain through jelly- bag without squeezing. Put juice on stove and follow general di- rections, adding sugar pint for pint. The berries must be firm and freshly gathered, as the slightest tendency to fermentation will pre- vent the juice becoming jelly. Tomato Jelly. — Cut a peck yellow tomatoes in pieces, boil until soft, and strain ; put the juice on, after measuring, with a sliced lemon added and boil half an hour ; add sugar pint for pint, let dissolve and come to boiling point, when it should be jelly. Test until prop- erly done, then strain into glasses. Fruit Flavors. — These are very easily prepared, and very con- venient for flavoring and coloring ices and ice-creams, dessert jel- lies, sherbets, drinks for the sick, creams, pudding sauces, etc., when fruit is out of season. Directions for preparing the juices or pulps of the different fruits have already been given in Ices and Ice-creams, and the process of making is the same for all : Mix the given quan- tities prepared fruit juice or pulp and sugar together, stirring until sugar is dissolved and a clear syrup results ; then pour into glass fruit jars of pint or quart size, same as used for canning, cover closely with their lids, stand in wash-boiler and finish as directed in third recipe for Canned Peaches, on page 153, boiling half an hour after boiling point is reached. Put cans away as directed in Canning Fruit. If properly prepared these flavoi^g will keep two or three years and when used will have all the flavor' of the fresh fruit juices. For Orange Flavor to each pint prepared orange juice add juice of one lemon and three cups granulated sugar. Make Strawberry Flavor same way using prepared strawberry juice and juice of only half a lemon. For Raspberry Flavor take a pint prepared rasp- berry juice, juice of half a lemon, or half gill currant juice, three and a half cups sugar. For Cherry., Currant, Orape, Plum and Apple Flavors use a pint prepared juice and three cups sugar. For Jr'each, Apricot, and tfectarine Flavors allow three cups sugar to each pint prepared pulp. 444 DESSERT JELLIES. Dessert Jellies. Very handsome jellies for dessert are made with gelatine formed in fancy molds, and when fruit is added exceedingly elegant and or- namental dishes result. But there are a few points connected with the use of gelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be too strongly impressed upon housekeepers and cooks . It should always be soaked in cold water till thoroughly saturated or so soft that it will tear with the fingers. In some cases it should be soaked for not less than five or six hours. The liquid containing gelatine should never be boiled, except in cases when it cannot be avoided, such as in clearing a jelly with white of egg, when it is necessary to raise the temperature to boiling point to coagulate the albumen ; but two minutes' boiling is quite sufficient for that purpose. Use as little gelatine as possible; that is, never use more than will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. The jfrejudice common against gelatine which existed in former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its qual- ities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly, hard, tough, and unpalatable, which compared very unfavorably with the deli- cate jellies made from calves' feet, the delicacy of which arose from the simple fact that the gelatine derived from calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jel- lies too strong. Persons accustomed to use gelatine \\'ill know that its "setting" power is very much affected by tlie temperature. In hot weather a little more gelatine than ordinary should be added. If jelly is not perfectly clear after straining, beat up whites of eggs and add, bring to aboil and skim, then strain again. Do not use lemon extract for flavoring jellies made with gelatine, as it imparts a milky appearance, and as in making these jellies ornament is the chief aim, it is desirable to have them as clear and transparent as possible. To mold, rinse the mold in cold water, and then fill. Jelly is some- times formed in a mold with a cylindrical tube- in the center, and when turned out the spacein center is filled witli whipped cream. If wanted still more ornamental dot the whipped cream with straw- berries, or any kind of preserved fruits, such as cherries, grapes, slices of peaches, etc. Any jelly left over, whether fruit or gelatine, may be reheated in a custard kettle and molded again. If of two colors, mold as directed for Ribbon Jelly, or in anv wav fancied. Blanc- DESSERT JELLIES. " 445 manges may also be remolded in same way, and by placing with the jelly in mold, half and half, makes a pretty dish. To Serve any des- sert jelly wrap a cloth wrung out of water around the mold and turn out. Apple Jelly. — Core and cut two dozen apples into quarters , boil with rind of a lemon until tender; drain off juice, strain it through jelly-bag, and to each pint add a half pint sugar and a half ounce gelatine, previously soaked and simmered gently in half pint water ; boil all together slowly fifteen minutes and strain into molds. Turn out, when cold, and serve surrounded with whipped cream or custard. Aspic Jelly. — To three pints clear stock (that made from knuckle of veal is good) add two ounces gelatine that has been soft- ened in cold water. Beat up whites and shells of two eggs and one yolk ; add them to the stock, and put into a saucepan, with a table- spoon catsup, one of vinegar, and a teaspoon each savory, thyme, marjoram and parsley, and a smaller quantity of mace, cloves, all- spice, white pepper and salt, with one wineglass wine. Set over a slow fire, stirring till it boils ; then cook slowly a few minutes, giv- ing it constant attention ; set aside to settle, strain through a coarse cloth or a fine sieve, and turn into mold to harden. It should be perfectly clear, and may be cut into blocks or dice for garnish, or cut into thin slices and alternated with slices of ham or beef; or it may be melted and poured upon chopped chicken in a mold. There are many other ways in which it may be useful and ornamental. It is very nourishing, and generally very acceptable to sick persons, especially if given to them in small quantities ice-cold. Another Aspic or Savory Jelly Is prepared from four pounds knuckle of veal, one beef's foot, three or four slices ham, any poultry trimmings, two carrots, one onion, a bunch of savory herbs, glass of sherry, three quarts water, seasoning to taste of salt and whole white pepper. Put ham in bottom of stewpan with other ingredients on top and sim- mer all very gently four hours. Then strain and cool, turn into a clean stewpan, leaving all sediment behind, add whites of three eggs to clarify, boil until it becomes white, stirring constantly, then strain and use as above. GalPs-Foot Jelly. — Boil four feet cut in three pieces in thre quarts water very slowly, until reduced to one quart ; strain and se away until cold ; then take off fat, and put the clear jelly in a stew pan, add a half pound powdered sugar, juice of two lemons, and chopped peel of one if flavor is liked, and whites of two eggs ; boil ten minutes, strain and put in glasses or molds to harden. A more 446 DESSEBT JELLIES elaborate recipe is the following : Cut the feet across the first joint, and through the hoof, place in a large sauce-pan, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to the boiling point ; when water boils, re- move them, and wash thoroughly in cold water. When perfectly clean put into a porcelain-lined or granite iron-ware saucepan, add cold water in the proportion of three pints to two calf's feet, put sauce-j)anover_fire, and when water boils, set aside t^ a cooler place, where it will simmer very slowly five hours ; strain through a fine sieve, or acoarse towel, let stand overnight to set, remove the fat that has risen to the top, and to make quite clean dip a towel in boiling water and wash the surface, which will be quite firm. Now place in saucepan, and melt, add juice two lemons, rinds of three cut into strips, one-fourth pound cut loaf-sugar, ten cloves, and one inch cinnamon stick. Put whites of three eggs, together with the shells (which must first be blanched in boiling ^^^^gj^ water), into a bowl, beat slightly, and pour into sauce- fj^^^^^ffl pan, continuing to use the egg-beater until the whole Uullllllflllr boils, when the pan should be drawn aside where it will simmer gently for ten minutes, skimming off all scum as it rises. While simmering, prepare a piece of flannel by pouring through it a little warm water ; and when the jelly has simmered ten minutes, pour it through this bag into a bowl, and repeat" the process of straining un- til it is perfectly clear, when add a half gill of sherry (or brandy, or brandy and sherry mixed in equal proportions), stir well, pour into molds, and place upon ice or in a cool place until jelly sets and be- comes firm enough to turn out and serve. Chocolate Jelly. — Two pints cream, three ounces sugar, four ounces chocolate, grated ; boil all together, stirring well until fine and frothy, add three-fourths ounce gelatine, stir until thoroughly dissolved, turn into mold and let cool on ice. Cider Jelly. — One package of gelatine, grated rind of one lemon and juice of three ; add one pint cold water, and let stand one hour ; then add two and one-half pounds loaf sugar, three pints boiling water, and one pint cider, put into molds and set in a cool place. Coifee Jelly. — Half box Cox's gelatine soaked half an hour in half cup cold water (as little as possi- ble), one quart strong cof- fee, made as if for table and sweetened to taste ; add dissolved gelatine to the hot coffee, stir well, ,^ crowa M^d.' strain into a mold rinsed just before using with cold water; set "°™T™'t" whipped Liikm."*''"' on ice or in a very cool place, and serve with whipped cream. This jel- ly is very pretty formed in a crown mold. When turned out fill DESSERT JELLIES. 447 the space in center with whipped cream. Orange Jelly is delicious served in same way. Cornstarch Jelly. — Wet five tablespoons corn-starch, one cup sugar, and pinch of salt with cold water, and add one teaspoon lemon or vanilla extract for flavoring; stir the mixture into one quart boil- ing water and boil five minutes, stirring all the while ; pour into cups previously dipped in cold water. This quantity will fill six or seven cups. If wished richer, milk may be used instead of water. Good for invalids. Easter Jelly. — Color calfs-foot jelly a bright yellow by steep- ing a small quantity of American saffron in the water. Pare lemons in long strips about the width of a straw, boil in water until tender, throw them into a rich syrup, and boil until clear. Make a. blanc- mange of cream, color one-third pink with poke-berry syrup, one- third green with spinach, and leave the other white. Pour out eggs from a hole a half inch in diameter in the large end. Wash and drain the shells carefully, set them in a basin of salt to fill, pour in the blanc-mange slowly through a funnel, and place the dish in a refrigerator for several hours. When ready to serve, select a round, shallow dish _ about as large as a hen's nest, form jelly in it as a Easter jeiiy. lining, remove the egg-shells carefully from the blanc-mange and fill the nest with them ; scatter the strips of lemon peel around it like straws, and around the edges jolace pieces cf the green blanc- mange cut out from a small sheet of it, cooled in a dish as in Italian Jelly. Fruit Jelly. — Soak a box of gelatine one hour in pint cold water ; when well soaked pour on a pint boiling water ; then put in a quart of any kind of fruit, strawberries, raspberries or cherries are nice ; add balf cup sugar and one spoonful lemon juice ; pour into a mold, and when cold eat with cream and sugar or whipped cream. It is ■delicious. T^emon Jelly. — Three good-sized lemons, sliced, half a pound white sugar, two ounces isinglass or gelatine, dissolved in two quarts cold water, a stick of cinnamon, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat whites of three or four eggs, and when the gelatine is dissolved stir them well with the other ingredients; boil five minutes, strain through a flannel jelly-bag into molds and set on ice ; or the eggs, cinnamon and nutmeg may be omitted. Or soak half a box gela- tine one hour in cold water ; add nearly a pint boiling water, one and a half cups su- gar, a little salt, and the grated rind and »^^^ juice of three lemons ; set on the stove till Jolly In oiMBM. it boils, then strain it into glasses, and when cold serve with whipped cream heaped on top. For Lemon 448 DESSERT JELLIES. Snow Jelly dissolve a box gelatine in nearly a quart boiling water, add the juice of five lemons and enough sugar to sweeten to taste ; strain and set aside until nearly cool. Beat whites of five eggs and whip into the jelly ; turn into a mold and let stand until cool. After it becomes solid, turn out and decorate with pieces of red jelly. Orange Jelly. — Two quarts water, four ounces gelatine, nine oranges and three lemons, a pound sugar, whites of three eggs ; soak gelatine in pint of water, boil the three pints water and sugar to- gether, skim well, add dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon juice, and beaten whites ; let come to a boil, skim carefully, boil until it jellies, and pour into mold. The eggs may be omitted, when the jelly must be strained. The grated rind of one orange put in with the juice gives a fine flavor, or some of the sugar may be rubbed on the rinds. A very attractive way of serving is to keep the orange rinds whole by removing juice and pulp with the handle of a tea- y^ltelMLvA spoon from a small opening in one end, drain yMHlH^Pyj and wipe them dry. Use the juice for the ^^MMJK^fflJ^ jelly, iijiicie as above without the eggs, and ^My^^^fralfti carefully strained ; then color one-half of it fi^^Hl'Sii^H^^Sl pink with a few drops cochineal coloring, ^^^X^^M^^Sw let stand until nearly cold, and fill the rinds ^^^^^^^^^r with alternate stripes of the pink and ^"^^^^^^^^^^ white jellies. When perfectly cold cut in- d?^'"?^S !>^il3ifr to quarters and pile tastefully on a dish Oranges Pilled with Jelly. with tufts of grccu leavcs Intcrspersed. Calf s Foot, or any variety of jelly, or different blanc-manges, may be used at choice to fill the rinds ; the colors, however, should contrast as much as possible. For Mock Oranges, prepare as above (without eggs) but do not color the jelly with which they are to be filled, and when cold carefully cut in halves. Should be prepared the day be- fore wanted. Serve as real fruit piled in glass dish with green leaves around. Another elegant dish is made by preserving the sections of two oranges whole, taking care not to break the thin inner skin surrounding them. Pour half the jelly in mold and let harden on ice, keeping remainder hot by standing in hot water. Then arrange the prepared sections of orange in a circle on jelly in mold, around the edge, then add just enough jelly to cover the orange sections, let it harden, put in remainder and set away to cool. If all of last half of jelly is poured over the sections they will rise to the top. When making in a hurry, instead of molding sections in jelly keep to gar- nish the dish. Peach Jelly. — Add to the juice from a can of peaches a cup granulated sugar and boil until clear, skimming carefully ; when no more scum rises, put in the peaches and let boil up once "; then care- fully take them out without breaking, and pour the hot syrup over a box gelatine that has soaked an hour in a cup cold water; add DESSERT JELLIES. 449 juice of a lemon, cup each granulated sugar and boiling watei* and put all over the fire, stirrijig constantly until the gelatine is entirely dis- solved ; strain while hot ; put the peaches in a mold, pour the jelly over, and set in a cold place for several hours before wanted. Pie-plant Jelly. — Peel enough pie-plant to fill a quart mold, cut in half-inch lengths, and stew gently to a pulp with an equal weight of sugar ; dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a gill of water over the fire ; add it to the pie-plant when tender, and let it boil up ; then pour in a mold wet with cold water, and let cool. Serve with -vrhipped cream or powdered sugar. Pig''s Foot Jelly. — Take the liquor in which fresh pig's feet have been boiled, strain through a flannel bag and set away to cool until next day ; then remove all grease from the top, return to the fire and add to each quart of jelly one-half pound white sugar, juice of two lemons or two dessertspoons lemon extract, a little cinna- mon bark and the whites of two eggs (the latter to clarify it) ; boil all together ten or fifteen minutes and strain again into glasses, bowls, cups or molds of any shape. Let cool, after which cover closely and set in a cool place ; it will keep a long time, is delicious eaten with cake, either with or without cream, according to taste, and is very strengthening and refreshing for invalids. Pine-apple Jelly. — Take a small can pine-apple, a cup and a half sugar, package of gelatine, one lemon, white of an egg, and a quart water. Soak the gelatine in half a pint cold water for two hours and a half. Cut pine-apple into small pieces and put it with juice and remainder of water into a saucepan to simmer for ten minutes.; beat white of egg well, and put it into a stewpan with the soaked gelatine, the sugar, and juice of lemon. At the end of ten minutes strain the pine-apple mixture into the stewpan. Heat slowly .to boiling point, then set back where it will keep hot for twenty minutes without boiling. Strain and put away in molds to harden. It will take five or six hours for the liquid to become perfectly set. ■ RiVbon Jelly. — Color half the desired quantity of lemon or any light jelly with a few drops of cochineal coloring ; pour in wet mold a little of the light jelly, and when set a layer of equal thickness of the red, and so alternate until mold is full, waiting until each layer has. hardened before adding another, and keeping the jelly warm in hot water until all is used. Tapioca Jelly. — One cup tapioca, ■ three cups cold water, juice of one lemon and a pinch of the grated peel ; sweeten to taste ; soak the tapioca in water four hours ; set in a saucepan boil- ing water ; pour more lukewarm water over the tapioca, ^^^^^ > if it has absorbed too much of the liquid, and heat, stir- i^^^Sffl ring frequently. If too thick after it begins to clear, MBIIIlDli' put iu very little boiling water. When quite clear, put in the sugar 29 450 DESSEET JELLIES. and lemon. Pour into molds. Eat cold with sweetened cream flavored to taste. For a nice jelly with fruit juice put a quarter of a pound tapioca over a gentle fire in sufiicient water to reach two inches above it ; use custard kettle in order that it may cook very slowly without danger of burning ; it must be stirred thoroughly about every five minutes if an ordinary saucepan is used ; if the water cooks away add half a cup cold water at a time, using only sufficient to keep tapioca moist enough to prevent burning ; when only very small white particles are visible in the center of the grains of tapioca, in- stead of adding more water stir in a pint of any fruit juice, or the syrup from canned or preserved fruit, and let it be slowly absorbed by the tapioca. Unless the fruit juice is quite sweet enough, sugar may be added, to make the tapioca palatable ; when it has absorbed the fruit, turn it out into a plain mold or bowl, and let stand until perfectly cold before using. Milk and powdered sugar may be served with it ; or it may be iced and ^erved alone. Whipped Jelly. — This is a very pretty dessert dish and easily prepared. When any gelatine jelly is set a little, put in bowl and whip with egg-whisk until full of air-bubbles. Fill the mold, and put on ice. The light frothy appearance is very pleasing, and the ad- dition of preserved fruits, well stirred in, about two cups to a quart jelly, forms a handsome dish. Jelly with Fruit. — Fresh fruits arc often molded -^ith gelatine jellies for dessert and present a very handsome appearance, the fruit being arranged around sides of mold, or placed in center, or in any manner fancied. The cut given shows rsyS^r^^^^Sa^ jelly molded with cherries. Have ready jf^5jlJl|Sl|4^B a pint and half jelly which must be very ^KMMfiiBl'llM53> clear and very sweet, the raw fruit requir- ''^n^ „~. -_.~^^^"' ing additional sugar. Select nice, per- jeiij Moiaed with chemes. feet fruit and pick off stalks. Begin by putting a little jelly at bot- tom of mold, placed in pan of ice in lumps ; let stand until hard before putting in fruit, keeping remainder of jelly hot bv placing in kettle of hot water. When the jelly is hard arrange the fruit around sides of mold, bearing in mind that it will be reversed when turned out. Then add a little more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and when that has hardened add another row of fruit and jelly in same way, and so on until mold is full. Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries and currants are put in raw, but peaches, apricots, plums, apples, etc., are better for being first boiled in a little clear syrup. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty jelly & may be made with preserved fruits. When served garnish with the same fruit as laid in the jelly ; for instance an open jelly with Open Mold, strawberries may have a little of the same strawberries. fruit filled in the center as illustrated. This is also a delicious way DESSERT JELLIES. 451 of serving ice-cream, as the open mold can be filled with Straw- berry Ice-cream, or any ice-cream, placed in the cave and then quickly turned out and the center filled with the berries. A stem of fresh grapes apparently suspended in a deep mold of transparent jelly is also a beautiful ornament for the table. To secure this effect, place the grapes stem 'downward in mold, and to keep in position while pouring in jelly attach two threads as near top of stem as possible, bring around the mold and tie, having bunch exactly in center. Have jelly quite cold but not hardened, pour it in around grapes, filling up to top of mold and set away to cool. Before turning out of mold, clip the threads as closely as possible, and by using a sharp-pointed pair of scissors they may be clipped quite close to the stem. Or if jelly is cold enough the threads may be carefully removed when they are reached in pouring in, then fill to top. Italian Jelly is also very ornamental, and is made by half filling a mold with jelly and when hard arranging round sides of mold a circle of little cakes of blanc-mange, v.'hich must have been cooled in a sheet of the desired thickness and cut out for this purpose. Finish as directed above. Jelly Sandwiches. — These are very nice for children's parties, and are an attractive addition to any table. The Accommodating UaJce recipe, in which neither butter nor milk is used, is excellent for sandwiches : Beat six eggs very light, add a cup and a half sugar and beat again ; then lightly stir in a cup and a half sifted flour. A teaspoon baking powder in the flour, and a tablespoon vinegar may be used, but neither are essential. Bake in deep round cans (the ordinary baldng powder cans are a nice size for this purpose), well buttered, filling only a little more than half full to allow for rising. When done and cold turn out and cut in slices as thick as liked, spread with jelly, place two together,and neat little round sandwiches are made. The cake is also excellent baked in a loaf, and any loaf cake may be baked in the cans, the round slices being a novelty on any table. Chocolate Cake baked as above and made into sand- wiches is a favorite with the little folks. The following is one of the best recipes : Put a half cup sweet milk, yolk of one egg and two and a half tablespoons grated chocolate over the fire until it comes to boiling point, then take off, let cool, sweeten to taste and beat it into the following cake mixture : One cup granulated sugar, half cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon baking powder, half cup sweet milk, two cups flour. This may also be baked in a loaf or makes a very elegant layer cake spread with white icing flavored with vanilla. Or make after this recipe : One cup each cream and sugar, two eggs, two teaspoons baking powder and flour to make good cake batter. Bake in the cans, slice and spread with jelly ; or, if variety is wanted, bake in gem or patty pans and ice with the Chocolate Caramel Icing. given in Icing. 452 DESSERT JELLIES. French Sandwiches are also favorites with children. Make bat- ter after any sponge cake or other recipe preferred and bake in small round cans, so that the slices will be about the size of silver half dollars. Or drop on buttered paper, a teaspoon at a time, stirring a little stiff for this, and when baked trim off edges to size desired as above with tin cutter or any small round tin box lid. Spread with jelly, put together and ice the tops. For a nice variety use different jellies and icings ; ice those spread with red currant jelly with choc- olate icing, those with peach jelly with any white icing flavored with almond, and the icing for the raspberry sandwiches should be col- ored pink with a few drops cochineal coloring or cranberry juice, and may also be flavored with almond. The easiest way to ice these sandwiches is to take each half on a skewer or fork and dip it in the icing, of which there must be quite a quantity so as to give the right depth ; stand the other end of skewer in a box of sand, salt or su- gar until icing is dry ; then put together with the jelly as above. For Cream Sandwiches cream a pound each butter and sugar ; froth whites of twelve eggs, stir in the yolks and beat all smoothly to- gether. Mix three-fourths pound corn-starch with fourth pound flour, sift twice and add to above with teaspoon vanilla ; beat till light and fine, bake in can as above, slice and put together with whipped cream. Boiled Icing or French Icing. Or bake in patty pans and ice tops. Nice with ice-cream. Victoria Sandwiches are also nice : Take four eggs, and half pound each sugar, butter and flour with a quarter saltspoon salt ; beat the butter to a cream, dredge in flour and sugar, stir well to- gether, and add the eggs, well beaten. Beat all together about ten minutes, butter a long shallow tin, pour in batter, and bake in mod- erate oven twenty minutes. Let cool, spread one half cake with a layer of any nice jelly or jam, place over it the other half, press the pieces slightly together, and then cut in long finger-pieces and pile in cross bars on a glass dish. MEATS. 453 MEATS Every practical housekeeper should spare no pains to perfect herself in this, one of the most important (by many considered the most important,) departments of cooking. Complete directions for buying and -curing meats will be found under the heads of Market- ing and Curing Meats, so that here only instructions for cooking are given. If cooked when first killed, meat will be found tender ; if kept a littie time the muscles stiffen and it will be tough, but if left a longer time the muscles relax and the meat becomes more tender than at first. Young meat of all kinds should be cooked very thoroughly to be wholesome. Beef is always "hung," as it is termed, at least a week in all first-class markets before cut up, in the re- frigerator in summer, and is kept sometimes' two weeks in cold winter weather. The leg and haunch of mutton is also preferred by many after it has been hung three days or longer, but all other meats, save game, should be cooked as soon after being killed as possible. If necessary to keep meat several days in summer, W9,sh over with vinegar, cover lightly with bran and hang in a high room or passage where there is a constant current of air. While hanging, change the position of the meat occasionally to distribute the juices evenly. Should there be any signs of a change before it is possible ) use it, rubbing the meat over lightly with salt will preserve it a day or two longer. Meat is more likely to spoil in rainy weather than dry and should be cared for accordingly. Beef suet may be kept a long time in a cool place without freezing, or by burying it deep in the flour barrel so as to entirely exclude the air. To restore tainted meat, wash in water in which a little borax has been dissolved, cutting away all discolored portions. 454 MEATS. The best manner of cooking tougli meat is to boil it very slowly until tender, letting tbe water all boil away, then brown in kettle or oven. Tougli steaks, etc., are improved by laying two hours on a dish containing three or four tablespoons each vinegar and salad oil, or butter, a little pepper, but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes. The action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extract- ing their juices. Some simply soak in vinegar and water, allowing three-fourths pint vinegar to three quarts water for a ten-pound piece, and let lie in this six hours, or longer if a larger piece. To thaw frozen meat, place in a warm room overnight, or lay it for a few hours in cold water — ^the latter plan being best. The ice which forms . on the surface as it thaws is easily removed. If cooked be- fore it is entirely thawed, it will be tough. Meat once frozen should not be allowed to thaw until just before cooking. When ordering a rolled roast have the butcher send home the bones to be used in making soup, stock, gravies, etc. Chop or break them in small pieces and boil with onion, celery, turnip, carrot and parsley or any one or two of these. American housekeepers have yet much to learn from the French cook who throws nothing away. Instead of going to the, butcher for meat out of which to make stock he utilizes bones as above, or employs the trimmings of joints for this purpose, and converts the skimmings from the soup pot or drippings from roast or boiled meats into uses for which butter and lard are pressed into service by most cooks. For directions as to the care and preparation of drippings etc., see recipe for Clarified Drippings. Most people also have the idea that a finely flavored dish must cost a great deal ; this is a mistake, for if one has untainted meat, or sound vegetables, or even Indian meal, to begin with, it can be made delicious with proper seasoning. One reason why French cooking is much nicer than any other is that it is seasoned with a great variety of herbs and spices ; these cost very little, and if a few cents' worth were bought at a time one would soon have a good as- sortment. The mixed spi-ces and herbs, now to be had in all large cities, are very nice for seasoning meats, gravies, etc., and save the trouble of preparing. Recipes for their preparation are given, how- ever, for those who prefer to mix them at home. If all the season- ings — spices, herbs, etc., — mentioned in recipes are not to be had, make the best use of those at hand by combining them judiciously. MEATS. 455 But no matter how nicely cooked and seasoned, meat is often utterly spoiled in serving. It should always be neatly dished on hot plat- ter and sent to table with very hot plates, heated in warming oven or in a pan over hot water. Especial attention to this point is neces- sary when serving mutton, as nothing is more unpleasant than a showing of cold mutton fat on a still colder plate. For very full directions for garnishing meats see Garnishes, though suggestions will be found with nearly every recipe. If one has not the articles recommended, others may be substituted, according to the fancy of the cook and the meat may of course be served without any garnish, yet its attractiveness adds much to the enjoyment of any dish. Glazing adds greatly to the appearance of meat and full direc- tions will be found under Glaze, in Gravies. Braising is a favorite method of cooking meats in France and Germany and several rec- ipes are given. Complete general directions for the more common methods employed follow under appropriate heads. Very complete instructions for Carving Meats will also be found under that head later on, a careful study of which, with the many illustrations given, will enable anyone to become an accomplished carver. Boiled Meats. — Boiling is the most economical way of cooking meats,when properly done, as there is comparatively little waste in boil- ing from the fact that fat melts less quickly than in broiling or roast- ing, and the covering of the pot retards evaporation, while the water absorbed by the meat adds to its bulk to a certain extent without detracting from its quality; the liquor in which it is boiled, or "stock," makes excellent soups and gravies and should always be put by for this purpose. Every economical housekeeper will provide nerself with a stock-pot, which should be kept in a cool place and all remains of soups, gravies, etc., emptied therein, save that from nautton or fish, which must be kept separate. Inattention to the temperature of the water and too early application of salt causes great waste in boiling meats. To make fresh meat rich and nutritious it should be placed in a kettle of hoilinff water (pure soft water is best), skimmed well as sooii as it begins to boil again, and placed where it will boil slowly but constantly. There should be enough water to entirely cover the meat and to last until thoroughly cooked. The kettle should be large enough so that the meat will not touch the sides, and some place a plate in the bottom to prevent scorching. Care must be taken to remove all scum at the first boiling, and as fast as it rises, or it will quickly sink and spoil the appearance of the meat. The meat should be occasionally turned and kept weE 456 MEATS. under the water, and fresh. boiling water supplied if it evaporates too much in boilingj Plunging in hot water hardens the fibrine on the outside, encasing and retaining the rich juices — and the whole theory of correct cooking, in a nut-shell, is to retain as much as possible of the nutriment of food. No salt should be added until about half an hour before the meat is done, as it extracts the juices of the meat if added too soon ; do not fail to remove the scum that rises after salt- ing. Boil gently, as rapid boiling hardens the fibrine and renders the meat hard, tasteless, and scarcely more nutritious than leather, without really hastening the process of cooking, every degree of heat beyond the boiling point being worse than wasted. There is a pithy saying : " The pot should only smile, not laugh." The bubbles shiould appear in one part of the surface of the water only, not all over it. This differs from "simmering," as in the latter there is merely a sizzling on the side of the pan. But the water must always be kept at boiling heat, or simmering, else it will soak into the meat and render it flat and insipid. Salt meat should pe put on in cold water so that it may freshen in cooking. Allow twenty minutes to the pound for fresh, and thirty-five for salt meats, the time to be modified, of course, by the quality of meat. A pod of red pepper in the water wiU prevent the unpleasant odor of boiling meat from fill- ing the house. Never pierce meat with a fork when taking up or turning, as this allows the rich juices to escape ; tie a stout cord around the meat when put into kettle with which to lift it out. If meat seems tough, put a tablespoon or two of vinegar in the water before putting in meat. Dried and smoked meats should be soaked for some hours before putting into water. White meats, like mutton and poultry; are improved in appearance by boiling rice with them ; or boiling closely tied in a coarse well-floured cotton cloth is better, and cooked in this way the meat will be very juicy. The cloth must be wrung out of scalding water and dredged inside thickly with flour. When the meat is wanted to slice cold it will be much im- proved if left to cool in the water in which it is cooked. When to be served hot take up as soon as done. To boil meat Au Court Bouillon make a Marinade by cooking in a saucepan one large onion and two slices each carrot and turnip ten minutes in two tablespoons butter j then add four clov6s, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three stalks celery, half teaspoon each pepper and mustard, stick cinnamon and one quart cider, or pint each vine- gar and water. Put meat in kettle, add marinade and water to cover and cook till tender, adding two tablespoons salt quarter of an hour before it is done. This is also nice for stewed beef or fish. Any flavor- ing not liked can be omitted in any marinade. The meat boiled for soup may be made into Jellied Meat by taking from the bones, chopping, and seasoning well with catsups and spices, moistening with a bowl of the liquor in which it was boiled (taken out for this before vegetables are put in) and put into molds ; when cold turn MEATS. ^S? out and slice. If the liquor is not thick enough to jelly, boil down or add a little gelatine. Broiled Meats. — Broiling is the most wholesome method of cooking meats, and is most acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is made more tender by pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but some of the juices are lost by the operation ; cutting it across in small squares with a sharp knife on both sides, being careful not to cut quite through, is better than either. Tough meats are also im- proved by laying for two hours on a dish containing three or four tablespoons each of vinegar and salad oil (or butter), a little pepper, but no salt; turn every twenty minutes; the action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim oif all superfluous fat, but never wash a freshly-cut steak. Never salt or pepper steaks or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, dip in melted butter. Place the steak on a hot, well-greased grid- iron and leave only long enough to sear one side so that the juices cannot escape, then turn and sear the other, and cook from five to twelve minutes, as wanted rare or well done, turning often, almost continually, to keep in the juices and prevent scorching ; the time required for cooking depends also upon thickness of steak and kind of broiler used. Dish on a hot platter, season with salt and pepper and bits of butter, cover with a hot platter and serve at once. A small pair of tongs are best to turn steaks, as piercing with a fork frees the juices. If fat drips on the coals below, the blaze may be extinguished by sprinkling with salt, always withdrawing the gridiron to prevent the ' steak from acquiring a smoky flavor. Always have a brisk fire, whether cooking in a patent broiler directly over the fire, or on a gridiron over a bed of live coals. As the success of the broil depends upon the state of the fire, be sure that it is very hot, perfectly free from smoke and will last during the broiling, whether one or more steaks are to be cooked. If the fire is not very clear put a cover over the meat when using a gridiron, which will prevent its blackening or burning, and this is an especially good plan when the meat is thick, or when broiling birds or chickens, which are apt to be rare at the joints un- less, this is 4one. A charcoal fire is of course best for broiling. BroiUng steak is the very last thing to be done in getting breakfast or dinner ; every other dish should be ready for table, so that thia may have the cook's undivided attention. A steel gridiron with slender bars is better than the ordinary iron one, as the broad, flat iron bars fry and scorch the meat, imparting a disagreeable flavor. A light wire broiler that can be kept in the hand and turned quickly 458 ' MEATS. is the best, if one has not a patent broiler. In using the patent broilers, such as the American and the later and better Dover, care must be used to keep all doors and lids of stove or range closed dur- ing the process. The dampers which shut off the draft to chimney should be thrown open before beginning, to take the flames in that direction. Never take lid from broiler without first removing it from fire, as the smoke and flames rush out past the meat and smoke it. Fried Meats. — Frying, proper, is immersing in enough hot fat to cover the article, and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, the food is quickly crisped at the surface and does not absorb the fat. The process of cooking in just enough fat to prevent sticking has not yet been named in English, but is called Sauteing in French and is popularly known as frying in this country ; it is not nearly so nice nor healthful a method as Frying iy Immersion, though very generally practiced everywhere. The secret of success in immersing is what the French call the "surprise." The fire must be hot enough to sear the surface and make it impervious to fat, and at the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon as meat is browned by this sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place on stove, that the process may be finished more slowly. This method of frying renders the meat more tender, and is a nice way of cook- ing tough steaks. For instructions as to preparing and heating fat, see Fritters. When improperly done, frying results in an unwhole- some and greasy mess, unfit for food, but with care, plenty of fat (which may be used again and again), and the right degree of heat, nothing is easier than to produce a crisp, delicious and healthful •dish. Steaks and chops, or cutlets, are very nice either single- breaded or dipped in batter, as Fritters, and fried. For complete di- rections for breading see Croquettes. Finely sifted bread-crumbs, cracker dust, granula, cerealine, Graham and corn meal are all used for breading meats. Be sure that the fat for frying is clean and fresh and free from salt, or the article fried will have a bad odor. Half lard and half beef drippings make a good frying mixture for either sauteing or immersing, though lard is largely used alone, and for those who cannot eat articles fried in lard, drippings or Ameri- can cooking oil should be used. The latter is much superior to any- thing else for frying purposes, and the drippings from veal, lamb, beef and pork are better than lard, if carefully clarified according to directions hereafter given : but the mutton fat should be clarified and put away by itself and used only for frying mutton chops, etc., as many persons dislike the flavor. -Fried meat should be sent to table the moment it is done, as the smallest delay tends to make the meat lose its crispness and become flabby. Larding Meats. — This is a very nice way of preparing meat, game or poultry for roasting. Either fat bacon or fat salt pork may MEATS. 459 be used, and is better for this purpose if cured without saltpeter,, which reddens white meats. For larding small birds cut the bacon or pork into strips of same size one and a half inches long and a six- teenth of an inch thick ; for chickens from an eighth to quarter of an inch thick, and for venison, beef and other meats two inches long and half an inch thick. These strips are called lardoons and are inserted in the surface of the meat with a larding needle as follows : With the point of larding needle make three distinct lines across ha lf an inch apart ; run needle into third line, at further side, and ^ bring it out at the first," placing one -of the lar- doons in it ; draw the needle through, leaving one-fourth inch of bacon exposed at each end ; proceed thus to end of row ; then make another line half an inch distant, stick in another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving the ends of the bacon all same length ; make the next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lar- doons of the first row ortwo,proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded in chequered rows as shown in cut. After inserting the needle work it around a little to enlarge the opening, and the lardoons will slip through easier. In warm weather it is well to place the lardoons in a bowl of ice to harden before using. Care must be taken not to have the strips too large for the needle or they will be pressed out as soon as the loose part of the needle touches the meat. Before Larding Birds-, hold breast over clear fire for a min- ute, or dip it in boiling water, then proceed as above, using a smaller needle than for meats. Larding needles are not expensive costing only from ten to thirty cents, but if one is not at hand the larding can be very neatly done by making incisions with a pen-knife and pushing the lardoons through with the fingers, pinching the meat up with one band while cutting and putting the lardoons in with the other. When preparing a roast in haste, strips of fat salt pork or bacon are often tied over meat or breasts of birds, instead of larding, and this is called "barding." The fat from the fowl itself may be used for this purpose instead of bacon. All white-fleshed birds are improved by larding, as well as veal and sweetbreads. Molded Meat. — Chop fine a pound lean meat of any kind, and add to it a chopped onion, tablespoon fine bread-crumbs, teaspoon salt, saltspoon white pepper, cup gravy (made by boiling the bones or piespes left after cutting off the lean, then straining and season- ing). Stir all together and let stand half an hour. Butter a deep bowl, pudding dish or mold, press in the mixture and cover with a plate. Place in a pan of water and cool in moderate oven one hour. Turn out carefully and serve hot with any of the following sauces : For Molded Mutton, gravy with a dessertspoon of currant jelly ; ioY Beef, gravy flavored with mushrooms or horse-radish sauce; for 460 MEATS. Veal or Fowl, tomato sauce ; for Pork, apple auce, fresli onions or onion sauce. It can also be sliced cold. Potted Meats. — If wanted to be kept for some time, the meat must be good and well dressed, biit if to be used within a day or "two any odds or ends will do ; when cooked, all bone, skin and sinew must be removed, and the meat pounded in a mortar with clarified butter, cayenne, and spices to taste, until a smooth paste. Press the mixture into pots or jars of small size, until about two-thirds fuU. Pour a layer of clarified melted butter, or good drippings (beef is pref- erable to any other), or mutton suet, upon the top of the paste to the depth of an eighth of an inch, for the purpose of excluding the air. Always wait till the meat is cold before potting and press very firmly into the jars, not allowing.a drop of gravy to get in, for it will turn the potted or preserved meat sour. Tie oilskin or oiled paper over the jars. The air must be excluded. Although these pastes are fit to eat almost immediately they will keep perfectly good for a year,and often a longer period. The most popular meats for potting are Veal, Ham, Beef, Tongue, Oame and Poultry. Fish is done in the same way — such as Anchovies, Prawns and Shrimps. Potted foods of this description are intended as relishes for the breakfast, lunch- eon and supper-table chiefly, served in slices or spread on toast or bread. Any cold remains of meat may be potted, and in every well- regulated English house potting is an every-day afiair for the cook. If ham, game, tongue, beef, or fish is served one day, it comes on potted next day at lunch or breakfast. This is a very good way of managing left-over food, instead of invariably making into hashes, stews, etc. Clariiied Butter for potting, or any of the other pur- poses for which it is used, is prepared by placing the biitter in a bowl and set in a saucepan of cold water, (or use a custard kettle), which should be heated slowly until butter melts and the scum forms ; remove from fire, skim, and return to warm again gently, then let stand a moment or two to settle, strain and put over the potted meat, or bottle for future use. When taken off the pots as opened for table the butter may be used for common pie paste, bast- ing meats and for fish sauce. Roasted Meats. — Roasting proper is almost unknown in these days of stoves and ranges — ^baking, a much inferior process, having taken its place. In roasting, the joint is placed close to abrisk, open fire, on a spit or in a tin kitchen, turned so as to expose every part to the fire, and then moved back to finish in a more moderate heat. The roast should be basted frequently with the drippings, and, when half cooked, with salt and water. To roast in oven, the preparations are very simple. The fire must be bright and the oven hot. Trim off any torn or bruised portions from the roast, which will need no washing if it comes from a cleanly butcher ; wiping with a towel dampened in cold water is all that is needed ; if washing is necessary, MEATS. 461 dash over quickly with cold water and wipe dry. Washing and soaking fresh meat draws out its juices and impairs its nutriment. A large piece is best for roasting, this being especially true of beef. If meat has been kept a little too long, wash in vinegar, wipe dry, and dust with a very little flour to absorb the moisture. Place in pan, on a trivet, or ' two or three clean bits of hard wood or bones laid cross-wise of pan, to keep it out of the fat. If meat is very lean, add a tablespoon or two of water ; if fat, the juices of the meat will be sufficient, and the addition of the water renders it juiceless and tasteless. The oven should be very hot when the meat is put in that the surface may be quickly seared or browned over and the juices confined. Keep the fire hot and bright, baste every ten or fifteen minutes, and when about half done season well with salt and turn the roast, also seasoning the turned side, always keeping the thick part of the meat in the hottest part of the oven. Take care that every part of the roast, including the fat of the tenderloin, is cooked so that the texture is changed. If the fire has been properly made, and the roast is not large, it should not require replenishing, but, if necessary, add a little fuel at a time, so as' not to check the fire, in- stead of waiting until a great deal must be added to keep up the bright heat. Most persons like roast beef and mutton underdone, and less time is required to cook them than for pork and veal or lamb, which must be very well done. Fifteen minutes to thepound and fifteen minutes longer is the rule for beef and mutton, and twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer for pork, veal and lamb. The directions for beef apply equally well to pork, veal, mut- ton and lamb. Underdone meat is cooked throughout so that the bright red juices follow the knife of the carver ; if it is a livid purple it is raw, and unfit for food. When done, the roast should be a rich brown, and the bottom of the pan covered with a thick glaze Re- move the joint, and those who do not salt before or while roasting now sift evenly over with fine salt, and it is ready to serve. Never salt before cooking, as it draws out the juices. To keep the roast hot w^hile making the gravy place it in a pan or on an old platter in the oven. To prepare gravy, pour off the fat gently, holding pan steadily, so as not to lose the gravy which underlies it ; put pan on stove, and pour into it a half cup boiling water, varying the quantity with the size of the roast ; soup or thin stock of any kind is better than water if at hand ; add a little salt, stir with a spoon until the particles adhering to sides of pan are removed and dissolved, making a rich brown gravy ; if necessary add a thickening of a little flour, mixed smooth with water, though if a nice, juicy roast, the gravy is much better without. Some first stir the flour into the drippings, then pour in boiling water. In roasting all meats, success depends upon basting frequently by dipping the gravy from the pan over the meat with a large spoon, turning often so as to prevent burning, and carefully regulating heat 462 MEATS. of oven. Roasts prepared with dressing require more time than those "without. In roasting meats if necessary to add water do not put it in until the meat has heen in the oven about half an hour, or until it begins to brown, and then only a very little, a half cup or so, of hot water. The appearance of a roast is very much improved by dredging with flour after each basting, commencing about half an hour before the meat is done. Do this with the flour after dredging evenly all over, first seasoning with salt. When the flour has be- come thoroughly browned, which will be in about ten minutes, baste and dredge ag^in ; continue thus until done, then season with pep- per and the meat will be sent to table coveredwith a handsome brown crust. Do not baste after the last dredging, and never baste after dredging until the flour has become thoroughly browned. If wanted nicely frothed, baste with butter the last time, then dredge with flour. Although we consider the above much the better method of roasting meat, some prefer to omit the dredging entirely, and others begin to dredge with the first basting. Some good cooks first cover the bottom of pan rather lightly with flour, then put meat on trivet in pan and place in oven until the flour is browned ; sufficient water is then added to cover bottom of pan, the oven is closed for about ten minutes, when the meat is basted with the liquid in pan and dredged with salt, pepper and flour ; this is repeated every fifteen minutes until roast is done. The claim is made that though the steam from the water and the salting of the meat both have a ten- dency to draw out the juices, by beginning thus early to dredge with flour a paste is formed over the meat which keeps in the juices and also enriches the roast. Whichever method is followed, be sure that the oven is hot when the meat is put in and the heat kept steady throughout. The meat-rack or trivet is a necessity no housekeeper should attempt to do without, and its cost is small. It keeps the meat from the bottom of pan and prevents scorching, or the soaking out of the juices when water is used. An excellent marinade for basting roast meats is made by chopping some fat bacon with a clove of garlic and sprig of parsley, adding salt, pepper, tablespoon vinegar, and four of oil ; beat up well, and baste the meat with it while roasting. The variation in roasted meats consists simply in the method of preparing before putting in the oven. Some are to be larded, some stufied with bread dressing, and others plaia, as above, only seasoning with pepper and salt. To prepare a Pot-roast, which is a favorite method of cooking meats with many, place the meat, neatly trimmed if a thick piece, or rolled and skewered if thin, in a hot stewpan or round-bottomed kettle, in which there is a little fat or butter if needed and turn to quickly^ brown or sear over on all sides to confine the juices. Then turn in a little hot water, cover closely (a seasoning of herbs or spice may be added as liked), and simmer gently until done. The time required depends upon size MEATS. 463 and quality of roast, a four-pound piece from shoulder of beef re quiring about three hours. Care should be taken that the meat does not scorch or burn to bottom of kettle, though onljr just sufficient water to prevent this should be kept in kettle, adding a little as it cooks away. Turn the meat occasionally to brown and cook all sides alike, and toward the last it should fry gently in its drippings. Observe the same rule for seasoning with salt and pepper as given for other roasts. The cheaper cuts of meat are usually cooked in this way, though some think almost any piece juicier and richer when- properly done. Pot-roasts are sometimes larded, when meat is very lean. A rich gravy may be made from drippings in kettle. Steamed Meats. — This is by far the nicest and most economical way of cooking meats ; place in steamer over hot water and cook till tender ; put in pan, with any herbs or spices, if wished, season with salt and brown in oven by basting and dredging with flour as in Roasted Meats. In a hot oven it will brown nicely in twenty or thirty minutes. Stewed Meats. — The inferior parts of meat are generally' used for stews, which if properly prepared are very palatable. If made from fresh meat, it should be immersed in boiling water at first, and then placed where it will simmer slowly until done, as in Boiled Meats, skimming well ; when done, season, add thickening, and flavor to taste. Sliced potatoes and any vegetables liked are cooked in stews, and some first fry both meat and vegetables a few minutes, or until brown, before pouring over the water in which they are to be cooked, and which should be only just enough to cook the meat and leave sufficient for gravy. A simple stew of meat, well seasoned, with dumplings dropped in just before done, is relished by nearly every one, and dumplings are often added when vegetables are used. Thin pieces of meat may be spread with a dressing, rolled and tied, then stewed with any additions of flavoring, vegetables etc., preferred. Trimmings from roasts and other meats, cut into pieces of same size, may be made into stews, and any cold meat may be thus utilized. Stews should cook very slowly after the boiling point is reached. Boiled Beef. — Select a good rib piece, or thick piece from the round or rump, as a simple cut would be too thin ; the flank, plate and brisket, though all good boiling pieces, are too thin to boil to advantage without rolling, but are very easily rolled and kept in place with twine or skewers. Wipe the meat with a, damp cloth and put on to boil as directed in Boiled Meats. Allow twenty minutes to each pound for boiling, and when just done, add seasoning of salt and serve with any salad preferred, or Horse-radish Sauce., made as follows : Take equal proportions of horse-radish and boiled apples, grate together with good vinegar and a little sugar and rub with a 464 MEATS. wooden spoon until mixture is smooth. Garnish with tufts of scraped horse-radish, boiled vegetables or parsley. If meat seems tough add a tablespoon or two vinegar when put on to boil. For a Pot-au-fen put six pounds beef in pot containing four quarts water, set on back of stove, skim, and when nearly boiling add teaspoon and a half salt, half pound liver, two carrots, four turnips, one head celery, two onions (one of them browned), with a clove stuck in . each, and a piece of parsnip. Skim again, and simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then ; skim off part of fat, put slices of bread in a soup-tureen, dish half the vegetables over tHem, and pour in the broth ; serve the meat separately with the other half of the vegetables. Bouilli Beef. — Procure a piece of rump weighing from twelve to thirteen pounds and 'have the butcher remove bone; put an onion in cavity, rub meat all over with mixed spices and let stand two days to become tender. Remove the onion when put to boil. Boil slow- ly three or four hours, skimming carefully ; add six or eight cloves two blades mace and a few celery tops to water in which it is to be boiled, and about two hours before done put in two carrots, thinly sliced, an onion and some allspice and whole peppers. For the gravy, thicken a pint of the meat liquor with browned flour, add a few capers and a tablespoon catsup, pour over beef and serve. Braised Beef. — Lard six or eight pounds good, lean beef with salt pork. Slice and brown two onions, a half carrot and half tur- nip, with six slices pork. When a rich color draw vegetables to one side of stewpan; dredge the beef with flour seasoned with salt and pepper and put in pan. Brown on all sides but do not burn ; add a quart boiling water, any sweet herbs liked, and cook slowly four hours, basting every twenty minutes. Add to gravy a can of toma- toes and cook ten minutes, strain, pour around beef and serve. Braised Chicken is cooked the same, trussing as for roasting with- out stuffing. To prepare a Braised Brisket., first skin and trim it ; then cut out bone, put in bottom of kettle and add a carrot, turnip, and small onion cut in small pieces, sprig of parsley, a root of parsley, a bay leaf, tablespoon whole cloves, two of pepper-corns, red or dried pepper, half cup vinegar. Place meat on this with boiling water to cover ; set kettle where it will boil, keep covered, and when boiling put on back of stove, add heaping teaspoon salt and simmer three hours or longer. Take up and keep hot while making gravy by straining broth and rubbing vegetables through a sieve, put a little in saucepan with heaping teaspoon cold drippings and tablespoon flour ; stir till nicely browned, then add little over pint of the strained broth, half cup at a time, till a nice gravy, and season to taste ; or if vegetables are cooked with meat allow time for each kind to cook MEATS. 465 before meat will be done. Braised Fillet of Beef is done after either of above methods, putting it in the oven a few minutes before serving to dry the larding. Garnish with cut vegetables, cutting into squares, diamonds, or balls or other shapes with vegetable cutter, and Braised i?metot Beet pile in little heaps around the platter, interspersing with aspara- gus heads, cauliflower blossoms, celery tops or sprigs of parsley. The fillet may be served whole or cut in slices ready for serving, as illus- trated. For a Braised Boll of Beef, procure a piece of flank fifteen to eighteen inches long and six or eight inches wide. Have butcher take off outside skin. Season with salt, pepper and powdered cloves and allspice to taste. Roll up in tight roll, tie in shape and cook same as brisket with vegetables. Best cooked in jar with cover cemented on, or use great care in keeping covered. To make more elaborate a forcemeat can be made of one cup soaked bread, quarter cup chopped salt pork with seasoning of pepper, and spread over the flaijk, or sausage can be used in same way, then rolled up as before. The regular utensil used by the French for braising is an earthenware pot or' pan with lid cemented down with a paste of flour and water. Another utensil is a kettle with a sunken lid or pan fitting tightly inside of kettle, and hot ashes and charcoal put in this. A gentle fire under the kettle cooks the meat perfectly. An ordinary iron kettle does very well, however, if kept closely covered. When the kettle with hot charcoal is used cover the meat with buttered paper. Curried Beef. — Fry two sliced onions a light brown in two tablespoons butter and mix in a tablespoon and a half curry powder ; add beef cut into inch square pieces, with a pint milk, and a quarter of a cocoa-nut, grated and strained through muslin with a little water, and simmer thirty minutes, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Turn into a dish, squeeze in a little lemon juice and . send to table with a wall of mashed potato or boiled rice around it. Potted Beef. — Season three pounds beef with pepper and salt and put in a pan, with a half pound butter cut into bits over it. Cover closely with an air-tight cover or a paste crust and bake four hours and a half. When cold cut out all stringy pieces, pound the beef in a mortar and work to a paste with four tablespoons fresh butter, some of the gravy from baking pan and a seasoning of grpund allspice and cloves, a little mace and pepper. Press into jars and cover with clarified butter. Some use any cold beef left over for potting. Potted Veal may be prepared same, omitting the cloves. If to be kept long the beef should first be rubbed with a pound com- mon salt, quarter ounce saltpetre and two ounces coarse sugar and let remain in brine two days before seasoning and cooking, and when potted it should be covered with the butter and tied down with but- ■tered paper or oil-cloth cover. For Pounded Beef, boil a shin of 30 466 MEATS. twelve pounds of beef until it falls readily from the bone ; pick to pieces, mash or pound gristle and all very fine and pick out all hard bits. Set the. liquor away and when cool take off all fat ; boil the liquor down to a pint and a half, then return the meat to it while hot, add what salt and pepper is needed, and any spice liked ; boil up a few times, stirring all the while and put in mold or deep dish to cool. Serve cold and cut in thin slices for tea, or warm it for breakfast. Another excellent method is to cut the lean meat from a ten-pound shin of beef, break up the bone and lay it in the bot- tom of a soup-kettle, lay the nieat on the bones, cover with cold water, set over the fire and slowly heat to boiling point, removing all scum as it rises. Meantime peel two turnips and two onions of medium size, scrape a carrot, and put them with the beef after broth is skimmed ; put in about half a cup parsley or sweet herbs, if ob- tainable, without breaking the stems, and a level tablespoon salt ; cover kettle closely, and boil slowly six hours ; then take up the meat, fat and gristle, and free it from bone ; put into a colander and rub through with a potato-masher ; season highly and press it down firmly in a tin or earthen mold. Strain the broth in which the beef was boiled and save it for soup, first using enough to just moisten the beef in mold ; put a weight on the beef to keep it down, and let cool entirely before using. When quite cold turn out of mold, and cut in thin slices before sending to the table. Nice for luncheon or supper. Pressed Beef. — Roll and tie a piece of corned brisket of beef in a cloth and simmer gently in plenty of water four or five hours ; when done remove the string, tie the cloth at each end, put upon a dish with another dish over, upon which place a heavy weight, leav- ing it until quite cold, then take the meat from the cloth, trim and glaze it lightly, and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh pars- ley. Or take any fresh^ lean beef and boil closely covered till it will fall from the bones ; use only enough water to prevent burning ; mix and chop tine ; put it in a pan or deep dish ; skim excess of grease from the cooking liquor and add to each three or four pounds of meat a tablespoon gelatine, dissolved ; put it on a large platter or tin that will fit the dish, and place on this a twelve to twenty pound weight ; when cold it will be a solid mass from which slices may be cut ; will keep several days, even in warm weather, if kept cool. Boast Beef. — The fillet or tenderloin is, of course, the choicest roast, but so expensive that it is served only at very elegant dinners or banquets ; next comes the sirloin roast, then the rib, round, rump, and shoulder or chuck roasts. In choosing a rib roast some prefer the first second and third ribs, called the fore-rib roast, while others order the third, fourth and fifth, which contain more meat and are without doubt most economical. There are twelve ribs of which the last five are classed with chuck roasts. A two-rib roast is sufficient MEATS. 467 for a half-dozen persons, and no less should be roasted for a smaller number, as a one-rib roast wastes and dries up greatly in cooking. Prepare and cook as directed in Roasted Meats, or in any of the recipes that follow. When ordering a rib roast have the bones re- moved and the roast rolled and skewered or tied in compact form. When served take out wooden skewer and replace with a silver one. If one has not a meat rack or trivet,- the bones may be ordered sent home with the roast and placed under it when put in pan. Some prefer to cover the roast with a coarse flour and water paste, which should be taken off to baste and brown the meat before serving. For a nice Bump Roast take three pounds of rump, trim nicely, and cut off all fat. Chop all sorts of sweet herbs together, very fine, with a little shallot and a great deal of spice, put in saucer that has been rubbed with garlic, and cover with vinegar. Cut fat bacon into long slips, dip it into the herbs and vinegar, and let the herbs be very thick upon the bacon; lard the beef regularly with these on both sides, if necessary, in order that it should be thoroughly flavored. Rub the beef over with the remainder of the herbs and spice, flour it, add piece of butter, size of walnut, rolled in flour, and pint water. Bake in oven, strain the gravy,, which will scarcely require either thickening or browning, and serve with pickles on top. Excellent when cold, but should be served hot at first. The gravy may be boiled to a glaze if liked. For a Oerman Roast procure a rib-piece or loin-roast of seven to eight pounds. Beat it thoroughly all over, lay it in the baking pan and baste with melted butter. Put it inside the well-heated oven, and baste frequently with its own fat, which will make it brown and tender. If, when it is cooking fast, the gravy is growing too brown, turn a glass of German cooking wine into the bottom of the pan, and repeat this as often as the gravy cooks away. The roast needs about two hours time to be done, and must be brown outside but inside ^till a little red. Season with salt and pepper. Squeeze a little lemon juice over it, and also turn the gravy upon it, after skimming off all fat. Or choose four pounds rib beef, take out bones, put in pan with some beef broth and cook until all broth is absorbed. Then take some parsley, garlic and twenty mushrooms chopped fine, a good piece of butter, pepper, salt, mix well and spread the beef with it, cover with buttered paper and bake in a quick oven till well cooked on all sides. For French Roast Beef,^ leave the meat two days in winter and eighteen hours_ in summer in a prepa- ration of four tablespoons sweet oil, seasoning of salt and pepper, two tablespoons chopped parsley, four sliced onions, tw;o bay leaves and juice of half a lemon ; put half on meat and half under it ; this improves the meat and makes it more tender. Place the meat on the spit or in pan for roasting, and baste with these seasonings or with melted butter. The oven should be quick and as soon as a coating or crust forms, the fire can be slackened a little to prevent burning. Baste well and often, and serve underdone and juicy. 468 MEATS. Some like a Bed of Vegetables for roast beef, which is prepared by placing in pan some scraps of salt-pork, a tablespoon each sliced carrots, and turnips, teaspoon each sliced onions and pepper-corns, half a dozen whole cloves, half a bay leaf and a little parsley ; or use only the pork with a part of the vegetables, etc. Add a very little water, unless a great deal of pork is used. When done, pour away nearly all the drippings, leaving about two tablespoons, which rub through a fine sieve with the vegetables, using a potato-masher, and return pulp to pan, or put in saucepan, add one tablespoon flour, stir till brown and then slowly add one pint water. A Round Roast of beef is nice with the bone removed and the cavity filled with force-meat. A nice way to prepare a thin piece of flank or low priced steak, is to make a dressing of bread-crumbs as for roast turkey or chicken, spread over the meat, and beginning at one end roll up tightly, bind with twine and roast as directed. Very nice sliced off thin for luncheon or tea. A good Mustard Sauce to serve with roast beef is made by thoroughly mixing one tablespoon vinegar, two of dry mustard, a teaspoon each flour, salt and sugar, beaten yolks of two eggs, and a cup water. Dissolve two tablespoons butter on the fire, add to the above mixture and stir till it boils. If too stiff, add water or vinegar, as it must pour out like cream. Thinly-sliced pickles, or a teaspoon tarragon vinegar improve the sauce. Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding is a favorite dish in many families. Prepare and bake as above, and about half an hour before the roast is done make the pudding and turn into a hot buttered pan like the one in which the meat is cooking. ^ Place a rack across it, not in it, and remove the roast from the pan in which it is cooking and witTYoA^ireSraing. placc it ou thls, that the drippings from it may enrich the pudding. If one has not another pan, the meat may be taken up, the gravy poured off, the pudding placed in the same pan, the rack placed over and the meat returned. If a rack is not at hand skewers or strips of clean hard wood may be put aceoss the pan resting on the edges, to keep the meat off the pudding. Serve the pudding cut in squares as a garnish for the roast. The following is the recipe for the real old-fashioned English pudding : Put six large tablespoons flour with a teaspoon salt into a bowl and stir in enough milk from a pint and a half to make a stiff batter ; when perfectly smooth add remainder of milk and four well-beaten eggs ; beat all thoroughly for a few minutes, then turn into pan as above directed. An ordinary bread dressing is often baked in the pan with the roast and served with it. Rolled ^ee/.— Procure a nice flank of beef and when ready for cooking, pepper and salt it well and spread over thinly with a dress- ing made as for turkey stuffing, then roll up and tie, winding with. MEATS. 469 twine to keep in place and sew in a clean, floured cloth ; put a small plate in the pot and on this put the meat, pouring ^^ oyer suflScient boiling water to cover. Boil gently