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Cornell University Library 
 SF 487.P56 5th ed. 
 
 The Philo system of progressive poultry 
 
 3 1924 003 04C 
 
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Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tiiis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003043092 
 
The Philo System 
 of Progressive Poultry Keeping. 
 
 By E. W. Philo. 
 
 The purchasers of this book are given the 
 right to make and use any and all appliances 
 herein contained. They are not given the 
 privilege to manufacture for others or to give 
 others the right to use them. 
 
 ONE DOLLAR. 
 
 Fifth Edition. 
 
 1908 
 
 The Poultry Review, 
 Elmira, N. Y. 
 
(J) / 2J/^ S ^- C 
 
 Copyrighted 1907 
 
 BY 
 
 E. R. Philo. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In publishing our system of Progressive Poultry Keeping we 
 simply give the facts about all branches of the work that have 
 been learned from experiments conducted by the hand of the 
 writer. We have learned by actual tests that many theories ad- 
 vanced by the majority of poultry writers are without founda- 
 tion. Men gifted with the power of imagination and the ability 
 to write an entertaining article have been given too much space 
 in publications. 
 
 Our experience in poultry keeping dates back over a period of 
 thirty years, and the mistakes made during that time, 
 if properly explained, would fill a book much larger than this one. 
 While many of our mistakes were expensive and discouraging, we 
 were determined to win out, and as the failures came, we had the 
 opportunity to study the causes, and again start from the foun- 
 dation to overcome the difficulties. Many times the discoveries 
 were surprising to us as they will, no doubt, be to you, and were 
 not put down as facts until each of them had been tested for at 
 least five years, and many of them much longer. 
 
 We have learned that artificial heat supplied to chickens is not 
 only unnecessary, but better poultry may be raised without it. 
 The average ordinary wood brooder is too complicated, expensive, 
 and there is too much danger of chilling, overheating, or burning 
 the chickens. When they come into this world they are supplied 
 with an abundance of heat and all we have to do is to retain it. 
 
 When green cut bone is fed liberally to breeding stock, good 
 eggs from which to hatch strong chickens are not obtained, neith- 
 er are the eggs likely to be fertile. 
 
 The best two pound broilers can be raised when confined to a 
 space of one square foot, when there are not too many in the flock. 
 
 Pullets may be properly matured in a space of one and a half 
 square feet, and a laying hen will do her best when given three 
 square feet of space. 
 
While it is generally understood that the largest egg yields 
 from laying hens are obtained from the smallest flocks, the sys- 
 tem is not in general use. 
 
 It is not uncommon to get six eggs from six hens in a flock 
 seven consecutive days. To get sixty eggs from sixty hens in a 
 flock, one day in the year is hardly possible, and, as far as our 
 knowledge goes, is not on record. Sixty hens properly bred and 
 kept in ten colony coops will lay sixty eggs per day many days in 
 the year, and at least twenty-five per cent, more eggs than the 
 flock containing sixty hens. When chicks do their best they 
 must also be kept in small flocks. 
 
 The natural desire of men to get rich quick without much kno'w- 
 ledge of the business, or capital to invest is probably the excuse 
 for large flocks. They estimate the profits from a given number 
 of hens they wish to keep, and figure the cost of the poultry plant 
 would be less when the fowls are maintained in large flocks. 
 
 Our aim has not been simply to get the greatest returns, as we 
 have given more thought to economy, and simplicity in labor 
 saving devices, making it possible to keep large numbers of laying 
 hens in small flocks at no greater expenditure for appliances 
 than where large numbers are kept together. Everything in 
 connection with our system is made with a view of using all kinds 
 of material to the best advantage, and without waste. The lum- 
 ber, wire, muslin and waterproof covering required in the construc- 
 tion of our appliances are all standard sizes and may readily be 
 obtained in all villages and cities. 
 
 While the advantages of the Philo System are many they can 
 all be summed up in one word ' ' success. ' ' Follow the entire plan 
 as outlined and success is sure. 
 
 Very truly yours, 
 
 E. W. Philo. 
 
STARTING IN THE POULTRY BUSINESS. 
 
 The best way to start in the poultry business is to begin with 
 two pairs of the best birds (not related) that you can afford to pur- 
 chase. (When the details of our system are carefully followed 
 and the breeding stock is right, it will be perfectly safe to handle 
 as large a business from the start as you can provide necessary ap- 
 pliances for and the time required for proper attention and care. 
 However, the disadvantages are likely to be inferior stock that 
 possibly have been inbred, or that have not been raised in a way 
 to build up a constitution of vigor and hardiness which is the 
 foundation to a successful business.) 
 
 By starting with two pairs of the best stock obtainable, with 
 the assurance that they have not been inbred, you will get 
 large profits more quickly than to start with a dozen or more 
 birds. It would not be difficult to raise twenty five pullets and a 
 good bunch of cockerels the first season from two hens, furnish- 
 ing breeders that would give you three hundred pullets the 
 second year, and this would enable you to do as large a business 
 as ycu like the third season. While these figures may look 
 large, they are not over estimated, as we are getting still 
 greater returns right here in our own yard, and are not giving them 
 as careful attention as is possible to do. 
 
 Purchasing the best eggs obtainable for hatching is also a desir- 
 able way to start in the business, and in many cases would be less 
 expensive than to buy the stock. We would not advise you to 
 buy stock that would cost less than ten dollars per pair, unless you 
 positively know the quality and can get them for less money. 
 
 Two settings of eggs at five dollars each should produce more 
 and better stock than you could purchase for an equal amount of 
 money, and it sometimes- happens that better birds are raised 
 from eggs sold than are raised by the producer. 
 
 If you are to buy eggs for the foundation stock they should be 
 hatched in Feb. or March if the fertility is guaranteed. If not, 
 get the eggs during the natural season for hatching, April, May or 
 June. 
 
 The advantages of getting eggs for hatching that are layed dur- 
 ing January or February are that you are sure they were layed by 
 winter layers and after breeding in this manner for two or three 
 generations your hens will lay as naturally through the cold win- 
 ter months as others do in June. 
 
If they are to be hatched during the winter or early spring, 
 one of the winter coops should be ready when they hatch, 
 which win provide the necessary protection to keep them in the 
 best possible condition at all times. 
 
 Some provision should be made for hatching the eggs before 
 they are ordered, as you cannot afford to take chances on 
 finding a broody hen, or the prompt delivery of an incubator. 
 The successful man is the one who is just a little in advance 
 of his business, and takes time by the forelock. 
 
 LOCATION. 
 
 One of the advantages of our system is that you can start in 
 the business where you now live, provided you have foiu" square 
 feet of land for each fowl you wish to keep. Three-fourths of 
 the land is for the fowls, and one-fourth for walks. It is better, 
 however, to have twice the amount of land required, that you 
 may alternate the poultry yard with the garden, thereby puri- 
 fying the ground and making a garden that will astonish the 
 natives. 
 
 Should the soil be low and damp it will be necessary to fill in 
 with sand or gravel so it will be slightly above the ground 
 around it. If dry and there is some gravel in the soil it will 
 not be necessary to fdl in. Stony or coarse lumpy soil should 
 be avoided, as it is necessary to keep the ground mellow, which 
 is easily accomplished after spading, with the aid of the hens, 
 to keep it stirred up. 
 
 In selecting a new location to make a specialty of the poultry 
 business you will find it of advantage to get a place where the 
 soil is composed principally of sand or gravel. It is also an 
 advantage to have it slightly rolling with a South or East expos- 
 ure to the sun. By selecting a gravelly soil the hens are furnished 
 a natural grit which is not only a saving in the expense account 
 of the plant, but is actually preferred by the fowls to the manu- 
 factured grit. 
 
 A nice apple orchard is a fine place during the hot summer 
 months, and the increased production of the trees, and the im- 
 proved quality of the fruit will add much to the profits of the 
 plant. Grape vines and plum trees grow quickly and make a 
 desirable shade, as well as being very productive. 
 
 The combination of poultry, fruit, and garden is one of the best, 
 
and the possibilities from an acre lot can hardly be estimated. 
 To make the combination complete a few colonies of bees should 
 be kept. There is hardly a thing that the writer has undertaken 
 that has brought as large returns for the amount of capital invest- 
 ed and labor required as from the honey bee. Last season 200 
 pounds of white clover honey in one pound boxes were taken 
 from one colony of bees, made up from two new swarms com- 
 bined. The time required to care for the bees was less than a day 
 and the value of the honey was thirty dollars. This of course was 
 an uncommon yield, still half that amount is not an uncommon 
 yield, and the returns are large enough to make the business 
 interesting. 
 
 SELECTING BREEDERS TO PRODUCE LAYERS. 
 
 It would be treading upon dangerous ground to select any one 
 breed of fowls as being superior to others as egg producers. In 
 our experience it is not so much the breed as the strain, as careful 
 and intelligent breeding will do wonders in a few generations. 
 It will make setters of non-setters, and non-setters of the breed 
 that is often found broody, if you wish to breed to that end. It 
 is also possible to make the very best layers from poor ones, and 
 very poor ones from the best. 
 
 We have selected the Single Comb White Orpingtons simply 
 for the reason that there is more money in them for us at the pres- 
 ent time than many of the other breeds. After carefully selecting 
 and breeding them for five years we find they will lay more eggs 
 in a year than any fowls we ever kept, although we consider it 
 possible to make as good layers from many of the older breeds. 
 Like all breeds they have other good qualities, but we will not go 
 into the details of any particular breed as it is largely a matter of 
 choice of the poultryman. 
 
 When undertaking the fancy part of the poultry business, 
 there are advantages in selecting a new breed, and growing up with 
 them. There are many noted breeders of the older varieties, 
 making it difficult to compete with them, while in the newer var- 
 ieties there are less experts at the work, making it possible to gain 
 a substantial footing at an earlier date. 
 
 For utility breeding, either eggs or meat, it would be exceeding- 
 ly difficult to improve on many of the old standbys. 
 
The systems for selecting layers that are now advertised in the 
 poultry journals were practiced by the writer fifteen years ago. 
 The width of the hen and general make up will determine to a cer- 
 lain extent her value as a layer. It is not always true with us,as 
 we find some of the hens that are not quite as wide behind as the 
 widest, are superior layers, and the only correct way is to know to 
 a certainty how many eggs each individual hen will lay in a given 
 time, and we do not consider it necessary to have a complete 
 years record, as every hen will show her productiveness in each 
 lot of eggs layed between her rest periods. After a hen has layed 
 a certain number of eggs she will either rest for a few days or be- 
 come broody when the stock of egg-making material has been ex- 
 hausted. The time required for this rest seldom varies, it gener- 
 ally being just one week from the time the last egg was layed be- 
 fore furnishing the first one of the new lot. This is, of course, 
 when the hens are properly fed and in good condition. 
 
 In our tests we find the number of eggs layed between the rest 
 periods are sometimes not over nine, while others will lay forty to 
 fifty or more without stopping. The number of eggs layed be- 
 tween each rest is not sure to indicate the value of the hen as an 
 egg producer, as it often happens that the hen producing twelve 
 eggs between the rest periods will lay them in twelve consecutive 
 days, while the one laying more eggs without stopping often re- 
 quires two days to lay one egg. A day and date record for two 
 months should determine the quality of the hen as an egg producer . 
 
 The pullets that first begin laying, or those that commence 
 while quite young are generally the best layers. The philosophy 
 of this is that the pullets that lay first have matured most quickly 
 because constitutionally more vigorous. The same physical con- 
 ditions will enable her to produce a larger number of eggs than 
 the pullet that was slower in coming to maturity because of a less 
 vigorous constitution 
 
 There are two points to be considered in selecting layers that 
 we have never known to fail. The largest individual hens of any 
 breed are never the best layers, and the hens laying the largest 
 eggs never lay as many of them in a given length of time. When 
 finding a hen that will lay twelve eggs in twelve consecutive days 
 the eggs will seldom weigh over twenty-five ounces to the dozen 
 and the hen laying very large eggs requires two days to make 
 
every egg. As long as eggs are sold by the dozen it is an advan- 
 tage to the poultrymen to breed hens that will lay eggs averaging 
 about twenty-live ounces to the dozen. They are not considered 
 small, and will sell at the highest market price. 
 
 The color of the eggs is also another point to be considered, as 
 eggs of a uniform color, either white or brown, are more attractive 
 and will generally bring a little better price when marketed. 
 
 Breeding from the best layers for three or four generations will 
 produce a strain of fowls that is capable of producing its like, 
 while a good laying hen that has not the breeding back of her is 
 not as likely to produce her equal. 
 
 In summing up we will give a few points that go to make up the 
 most productive hen. 
 
 One that is not over large for her breed, and that is especially 
 wide and deep in her fluff. 
 
 One that has a very large crop for her size and has it well filled 
 at night, and one that lays eggs of a medium size. 
 
 SELECTING BREEDERS FOR BROILERS. 
 
 In selecting the breeders for broilers, capons etc., one's aim 
 should be extreme hardiness, early maturity and large, well 
 developed frames. These qualities are all possible with the best 
 layers, still they are not the best for the broiler farm. The hen 
 that only lays every other day puts more vitality into the egg. 
 
 She is generally the largest of the breed, and her eggs also are 
 large, furnishing more nutriment for the growing embyro, and 
 more yolk for the chick to absorb, to give it a good start in life 
 after being hatched. 
 
 With the average stock, first crosses will make the best broilers, 
 and make them more quickly than the ones raised from thorough- 
 breds. This is on account of the breeders not being related, and 
 is the point which should convince poultrymen that the practice 
 of in-breeding is a mistake. It is possible, however, to get as 
 good results from the thoroughbred stock, when they have not 
 been in-bred and when their constitution and vigor has been re- 
 tained to the highest degree. 
 
 The "First Cross"is breeding together two distinct breeds, and 
 the offspring would be hybrids, not valuable to use as 
 breeders, for mating together or crossing with a thoroughbred of 
 another breed. 
 
10 
 SELECTING BREEDERS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 In breeding for exhibition, the American Standard of Perfection 
 should be consulted and birds selected conforming as nearly as 
 possible to the Standard requirements. When it is possible, the 
 male should be especially strong in the points where the females 
 are weakest. The size and shape of the hen, and color of the male 
 bird are reproduced in nine cases out of ten. A Black Minorca 
 male crossed with Barred Rock females will produce black fowls 
 shaped like Rocks, and a Rock male crossed with Minorca hens 
 will produce barred fowls shaped like Minorcas. While there may 
 be exceptions to the rule, it may safely be relied upon in nearly 
 every case. The chicks hatched from the first six eggs layed after 
 the mating, are not as likely to follow the color of the male as 
 those layed after the first six. 
 
 heg bands should be used on all breeders and a careful record 
 kept; giving as many details as possible, including weight, color 
 etc., just as given on a score card as indicated on opposite page, the 
 necessary cuts being made after carefully comparing the bird with 
 the illustration in the Standard and making the cuts for imper- 
 fections as indicated therein. 
 
 For pedigree breeding this record is indispensible, as it is the 
 only means by which we can ascertain facts about breeders of the 
 past, that we may know to a certainty the true qualities of the 
 stock from which our birds have sprung. It is also an educator in 
 itself, as it plainly shows from one generation to the next the im- 
 provements made, and how they were brought about; besides 
 the stock thus raised has a market value greatly in excess of stock 
 of the same quality that has been produced by chance or hap- 
 hazard breeding. 
 
 There are sixteen individual toe marks that may be made by 
 punching the web between the toes in all the combinations. As 
 soon as the chicks are hatched they should be thus marked, and a 
 careful record kept showing their ancestors. When the chicks 
 have matured it is an easy matter to tell the breeders which are 
 producing valuable show birds, and which should be retained 
 foi many years, or as long as they will produce superior stock. 
 
 It sometimes happens that the best specimens do not produce 
 the best stock. Several years ago we lost all of our best male 
 birds of one breed at the close of the hatching season. There 
 
11 
 
 OFFICIAL SCORE CARD OF THE AMERICAN POULTRY 
 ASSOCIATION. 
 
 Date 
 
 Owner . . . 
 Address . . . 
 Entry No . 
 
 Variety. . . 
 
 Sex 
 
 Band No . 
 ■Weight. . . 
 
 
 Shape 
 
 Color 
 
 Remarks 
 
 Symmetry 
 
 
 
 
 Weight or Size 
 
 
 
 
 Condition 
 
 
 
 
 
 Head and Beak 
 
 
 
 
 Eyes 
 
 
 
 
 Comb 
 
 
 
 
 Wattles and Ear-Lobes 
 
 
 
 
 Neck 
 
 
 
 
 Wings 
 
 
 
 
 Back 
 
 
 
 
 Tail 
 
 
 
 
 Breast 
 
 
 
 
 Body and Fluff 
 
 
 
 
 Legs and Toes- 
 
 
 
 
 ♦Hardness of Feather 
 
 
 
 
 tCrest and Beard 
 
 
 
 
 Total Cuts Score . 
 
 ♦Applies to Games and Game Bantams, 
 t Applies to Crested Breeds. 
 
 Name of Judge. 
 Secretary 
 
 This lorm shouM De usea to keep aa accurate record ol tlie breeding stock, We 
 pan furnish printed cards as aljove (or 25 cents per 100, postpaid. 
 
12 
 
 was one bird left that we considered worthless as a breeder. We 
 were anxious to raise a few more chickens, and is was too late in 
 the season to purchase a valuable bird, so we concluded to make 
 a trial of the one we had. To our surprise the best specimens we 
 raised that season were from this male bird which we had consider- 
 ed worthless, and the chickens were especially strong in points 
 that were defective in the old bird. The breeding back of this 
 bird was of the very best, and the qualities produced by him were 
 the superior qualities of his ancestors. 
 
 Seconds from carefully bred stock, are more valuable for breed- 
 ing purposes than the firsts from stock that has been carelessly 
 bred. 
 
 THE BEST AGE FOR BREEDERS. 
 
 In this respect our experience differs from the theories advanced 
 by most breeders, as it is generally claimed that cockerels mated 
 to two year old hens are best. 
 
 We get best results from breeders both male and female that are 
 just past one year old. The pullets having then reached maturity 
 the time of laying large eggs, are then fully?developed and should 
 be in better physical condition than either earlier or later in life. 
 
 Our breeding stock is all hatched in Feb. or March, and are 
 grown as rapidly as possible, commencing to lay in August or 
 September, and laying from sixty to one hundred eggs each before 
 the new year, when they are to be used as breeders. 
 
 From twenty-five to fifty per cent, of the winter hatched pullets 
 will go through the moult in October or November generally com- 
 pleting it in about hah the time required by old hens. After com- 
 pleting the moult they are full fledged hens and in prime condition 
 for breeders or the show room. The fertility of the eggs is then 
 at its best ; and the chicks after being hatched, are more easily 
 raised than those from old or very young hens, besides reaching 
 maturity at an earlier age. 
 
 This system also has the advantage of raising stock that comes 
 to laying during the cold Winter months as naturally as the aver- 
 age stock is laying in May and June. 
 
13 
 
 It is best to use breeding stock from which to raise exhibition 
 fowls as long as it will produce birds of superior quality. Fe- 
 males from five to ten years old are often valuable. 
 
 FERTILITY. 
 
 Three days after mating, fertile eggs may be expected. If the 
 matings have been changed, some results from the last cross will 
 be in evidence. The following six eggs are also likely to produce 
 birds showing the characteristics of either mating. 
 
 Careful tests have shown that not over twelve eggs will be fer- 
 tilized after the sexes have been separated, and in many instances 
 the fertility ends with the sixth egg. After two weeks mating we 
 may except nothing but the results from the last mating. 
 
 When a hen becomes broody she may be taken from one pen 
 and placed in an other where she should again commence laying 
 in one week. The first egg layed will be fertilized by the last mat- 
 ing. 
 
 BREEDING IN LINE. 
 
 Line breeding is to use our own stock and not to introduce new 
 blood without the knowledge of what it will produce. 
 
 Inbreeding is generally practiced to start line breeding, al- 
 though it is not the proper way for best results, especially in 
 breeding utility stock, as the vitality is weakened to a certain ex- 
 tent, requiring several years to overcome the bad effects. 
 
 Our way to start line breeding is to get eggs or stock from two 
 poultrymen who are separated by as many miles as possible. 
 The birds are not as likely to be related as those from the nearby 
 poultry yards; and should they be related, the fact that they 
 have been bred under different conditions of climate, etc., will 
 render them of nearly as much value as birds not related. You 
 will then carry two distinct strains and may use the male birds 
 from one side to cross with the females of the other side. After 
 the first cross it will be necessary to cross first cousins, which is 
 not considered inbreeding, and this will produce stock that is more 
 likely to inherit the good qualities of its ancestors. 
 
14 
 
 CARE OF THE BREEDING STOCK. 
 
 Natural conditions are the essential points to success. While 
 it is not possible in a cold climate, during the best breeding season 
 of the year, to bring about perfectly natural conditions, we are 
 to do so as nearly as possible. 
 
 It is necessary to commence the work before the first cold 
 weather, that the change maybe gradual and the fowls hardened 
 under natural conditions to the extreme cold weather. They 
 must be protected from the wind and direct draft, having at the 
 same time the full outside weather conditions, and without being 
 in the rain or snow. Our combined Summer and Winter Colony 
 coop is well adapted to get the desired conditions. Other build- 
 ings may easily be arranged with but little expense and labor, 
 that will answer the purpose, and save the cost of the colony coop. 
 
 We used the loft of an old barn for some of our best breeding 
 stock last Winter with very satisfactory results. There was not 
 any glass or window opening, so large openings were made on the 
 South side six inches from the floor, six inches from the roof and 
 six feet long. A tight box three feet wide, three feet deep and 
 just long enough to accomodate the fowls on two perches, allow- 
 ing two feet in length for every five birds, was nailed in the rear 
 of the room two feet above the floor, the opening of the box 
 facing the South, or front of the room and covered with a 
 burlap curtain that was let down every night to retain the heat 
 of the fowls, keeping them comfortable and at the same time sup- 
 plying an abundance of fresh air. It was nearly as cold in che 
 room out side of the roosting box as the outside weather conditions 
 yet the fowls in the box did not suffer, and their combs were not 
 frosted. 
 
 Whole oats, dry wheat bran, cut clover and oyster shells were 
 kept in boxes all the time, and a little wheat, buckwheat and barley 
 was scattered in the litter in the morning, or at night after roost- 
 ing time, so they might exercise enough to warm up, and get their 
 blood circulating. Cracked corn was used for the night food and 
 scattered in the litter about three o'clock in the afternoon, which 
 would keep them busy until roosting time. Water was given 
 them in the morning and at noon; and on very cold days it was 
 necessary to empty out the ice and furnish water four or five times 
 during the day. If the water supply is allowed to run short the 
 egg supply will suddenly be cut off. 
 
15 
 
 We never feed condition powder, or any of the patent material 
 for promoting egg production, as it weakens the vitality of the 
 stock and brings about unnatural conditions that are ruinous to 
 the fertile egg supply. Green cut bone was never given as we 
 had discovered that eggs were not good for hatching after the 
 fowls were fed green cut bone during the Winter. When lean 
 beef can be had at a reasonable cost it is advisable to use it, and 
 the results will be very satisfactory. Bone, if fed at all should be 
 
 'Uhis ulilily pullet laid 38 eggs in September and the first two weeks of 
 October, valued at a little over one dollar, and all the eg^s were laid before 
 
 she was seven months old. 
 dried and ground, or burned and crumbled. Grease, tallow, and 
 the marrow of the bones should never be fed except to fowls 
 that are being fattened. 
 
 The pen of fourteen hent, in the bam loft furnished u<: frjin 
 eight to twelve, and occasionally, fourteen eggs per day during the 
 entire Winter and Spring. Nine eggs were set the 20th of Jan- 
 uary to test fertility, and nine chicks were the result. After the 
 20th, all perfect shell eggs were incubated, and the lowest fertil- 
 
16 
 
 ity during the winter was five infertile eggs from one hundred. 
 Several settings showed one hundred per cent.fertility,many times 
 hatching every egg. The average hatch during the Wmter was 
 over ninety per cent.from all eggs set, and ninety eight per cent, 
 of the chickens assigned to our brooder coops were successfully 
 raised. 
 
 KEEPING EGGS FOR HATCHING 
 
 The very best treatment to give eggs for hatching is to set 
 them the same day they are layed. When breeding from one 
 or two hens this is not always advisable. They may be kept in 
 good condition for a week or two, although we seldom incubate 
 eggs over one week old. It is not uncommon to hatch eggs six 
 weeks old, still it is not advisable, as it would be very difficult to 
 raise the chickens. The loss of fertility is not the only thing to 
 be taken into consideration. The evaporation of the moisture 
 from the egg commences at once, taking with it some of the 
 material necessary to grow a strong chicken, and making a 
 depreciation in its value each succeeding day until the egg is 
 worthless foi incubation. The age of the egg before commencing 
 to incubate has much to do with the amount of moisture to be 
 supplied during the process of incubation. A perfectly fresh egg 
 in a properly constructed incubator should never require sup- 
 plied moisture. While the moisture may be supplied to bring out 
 a satisfactory hatch, the same quality of material cannot be 
 replaced that was lost by evaporation, and the vitality of the 
 chick is weakened to a degree corresponding to the age of the 
 
 egg- 
 It is not best to turn the eggs every day as is generally advised, 
 for it weakens the albumen, making it more volatile and capable 
 of penetrating the shell to a gt eater extent; besides bringing the 
 germ capable of producing life nearer the surface of the shell, 
 until finally it becomes attached, when it is worthless for incu- 
 bation. 
 
 As the temperature is increased above the freezing point, 
 evaporation increases in propoition. An egg kept at a temper- 
 ature of eighty degrees will loose as much in weight in one week 
 
17 
 
 as it would in two weeks at a temperature of fifty-five degrees; 
 and its value at two weeks is not of equal value to eggs kept at 
 a temperature of fifty-five degrees, as the temperature is too high 
 to retain the living germ in a perfectly dormant condition. 
 
 A low temperature does not weaken the vitaUty of the germ. 
 If too low it kills it outright and the egg may be kept as an infer- 
 tile egg, and it will dry up in time without decaying. We have 
 had good hatches from a basket of eggs where twenty-five percent 
 of them were frozen and cracked open. About twenty five per- 
 cent, of those not cracked were killed, while the other fifty per 
 cent, produced fine chickens that were raised to maturity, and 
 made healthy stock. 
 
 In all of our experiments the germ has been killed at some point 
 between twenty -four and twenty-eight degrees above zero when 
 exposed for at least twelve hours. A temperature below fifty 
 degrees is better for eggs that are to be hatched than at any point 
 higher. 
 
 Never stand eggs on the small end that are intended for incuba- 
 tion. It is not their natural position. After standing on the 
 small end for a week or two the embryo will float near the air cell 
 in the large end of the egg. The chick will grow naturally for 
 about ten days, then the growth will not be normal, and the chick 
 not properly matured at hatchirg time. It is also more likely to 
 bring the chicks head at the small end of the egg, making it near- 
 ly impossible to free itself from the shell without help. 
 
 A temperature of eighty-five degrees for twenty-four hours will 
 start incubation,and the e!mbryo will die during the next twenty- 
 four hours, unless the temperature is raised to at least one hun- 
 dred degrees. The egg will then decay. 
 
 A temperature of 1 1 5 degrees for five hours will kill the germ 
 and the egg will appear infertile, and will keep nearly as long as 
 an infertile egg. 
 
 CONTROLLING THE SEX. 
 
 To raise cockerels select a very strong active male. A young 
 bird is generally better than an ol 1 one. Then select hens that 
 are from two to five years old. When but one hen is used in the 
 bi?eeding pen you will hatch from seyenty to ninety per cent,coc^- 
 
18 
 
 erels. By increasing the number of females in the pen you will 
 increase in proportion the number of females raised. 
 
 To raise nearly all pullets, use an old male bird or a cockerel 
 not especially active mated to thirty or forty good lively pullets. 
 You will not be likely to get the highest average fertility, but the 
 chickens hatched will run largely to pullets. In one experiment 
 we raised seventy pullets from seventy seven chickens hatched. 
 
 The early hatched chickens are likely to run to cockerels to a 
 much greater extent than those hatched from the same pens later 
 in the season. 
 
 When the vitality of the male is greatly in excess of the fe- 
 males the chicks will run largely to males, and when the females 
 are superior in that respect, a large portion of the chicks will be 
 pullets. 
 
 SELECTING EGGS. 
 
 In selecting eggs from which to hatch our best layers, those 
 weighing about twenty-five ounces to the dozen have the prefer- 
 ence. 
 
 The shells should be smooth and uniform in shape and color. 
 The ones that have a ridge around the center, and those with 
 rough ends are rejected. When the rough end appears firm and 
 the shell as thick as other portions of the egg it may safely be 
 used. 
 
 Eggs having a metallic ring when being handled or rubbed be- 
 tween the hands are infertile, and the eggs that feel smooth and 
 solid with a dull heavy ring like a ripe watermelon are best. 
 
 Large eggs are best to hatch broilers from as rule, although the 
 eggs weighing twenty -five ounces or more should produce quick 
 maturing broilers. 
 
 Hens eggs weighing more than thirty-two, or less than twenty- 
 four ouoioes to the dozen shculd never be set. 
 
19 
 
 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 
 
 The success of artificial incubation depends fully as much upon 
 the quality and condition of the eggs as the machine or operator. 
 Eggs produced under the conditions outlined in this book are 
 easily hatched as compared with the eggs produced without any 
 definite knowledge as to what is actually required. 
 
 Nine out of every ten failures are due directly to improper care 
 the first week of incubation, and although the chick will develop 
 under improper handling, it will not hatch properly unless it has 
 been properly developed at the end of the first week. 
 
 If there has been too much cooling, or the temperature has been 
 low during the first seven days it is exceedingly difficult to get 
 satisfactory results, the hatch is likely to be delayed and chicks 
 hatched with crooked toes. When they have been properly 
 handled the first week the chances are good for a good hatch even 
 though they suffer from neglect during the later stages, and after 
 two weeks of proper handling they will hatch when subjected to 
 very harsh treatment. 
 
 First Week- 
 
 At the end of the first twenty-four hours after the eggs have 
 been placed in the machine the thermometer should register 
 about one hundred and two degrees with the bulb touching the 
 upper surface of the egg. This temperature should be maintained 
 as, steadily as possible during the first week with but little airing. 
 
 The, relative position of the eggs should be changed at least 
 twice daily, and three, times is better when they can be quickly 
 changed without much eoohng. The machine should not be 
 opened rp^pre than two minutes at a time during the first week. 
 
 In turning it is not important that the egg should be turned ex- 
 actly half way over, simply change their position. 
 
 'Nature has provided for the very frail condition of the embryo 
 during the first five days in two ways. First by giving a hen the 
 instinct to stick closely to the nest ,during this time, and secondly 
 by allowing- the eipbyro to float to tlie surface no matter what 
 position the egg is in, during the first five days, that it may come 
 in contact with the heating surface of the hens body. After 
 
20 
 
 five days- when the embryo becomes stationary there is quite a 
 net work of blood veins, and the rapid movement of the heart 
 causes the blood to circulate over half way around the egg thereby 
 generating heat that is a help in overcoming excessive cooling. 
 
 Second Week. 
 
 At the beginning of the second week the blood veins should 
 completely encircle the egg near the air cell. Should there be a 
 space not covered it would indicate a lack of heat, too much cool- 
 ing or a deficiency in the egg. If there is a clear space of a quarter 
 inch between the extreme ends of the blood veins and the egg 
 is not at fault, the defective work of the first week may be par- 
 tially overcome by carrying the temperature a half degree higher 
 than is best under natural conditions during the remainder 
 of the hatch. 
 
 When properly developed, at the beginning of the second week 
 the temperature should be carried as nearly as possible at 103 
 degrees. The eggs should be turned two or three times daily as 
 during the first week, and when turning the last time at 'night 
 they should be cooled about five minutes when the room temper- 
 ature is from sixty to seventy degrees. If qbove seventy degrees 
 they should be cooled one minute longer for every two degrees 
 above seventy. When the room temperature is below sixty, one 
 minute should be taken from the five.for every five degrees cooler 
 which would allow but one minute, (about the time require! to 
 turn the eggs) in a room temperature of forty degrees. If the 
 temperature of the eggs should be found above 103 degrees the 
 eggs should be cooled ten minutes longer for each degree too high. 
 If found at 104 degrees they should be cooled fifteen minutes, or 
 twenty five minutes if found at 105 degrees. 
 
 Should the temperature of the eggs get below the' desired point 
 at any time do not cool or turn them, close the machine quick- 
 ly and allow the eggs to warm up first. If the lamp should acci- 
 dently go out allowing the eggs to get cold, a few flat bottles of 
 hot wdt( r laid on the eggs will quickly restore the heat. 
 
 Third Week. 
 
 The rules as above for the second week are used during the last 
 
 , w eek, and the only changes made are to allow the temperature to 
 
 run a half degree higher, and cool the eggs five i^iinvt^s longa-, 
 
21 
 
 making the standard time for cooling ten minutes in place of five, 
 and the temperature of the eggs 103 1-2 deg. in place of 103. \> 
 
 By cooling the eggs the last thing at night they have a better 
 chance to regain the lost heat-, and are not as Ukely to get over- 
 heated before morning. 
 
 On the seventh.twelf th.and seventeenth days cool the eggs a full 
 half hour in a room temperature of about seventy degrees. In 
 cooling the eggs thus the contents contract drawing through the 
 , pores of the egg shell a good supply of oxygen. 
 
 The above directions apply to machines heated with hot air 
 from above. When they are heated from the bottom or are 
 heated with hot water, the temperature should be maintained 
 one half degree cooler than above. 
 
 Never under any conditions put eggs on top of the eggs on the 
 trays so there will be two layers. 
 
 When the regulator of a machine has been properly adjusted, 
 give it plently of time to do its work before readjusting. Many 
 hatches are ruined by playing with the regulator. After the eggs 
 have been cooled the damper will sometimes open with a temper- 
 ature of ninety degrees. When they are thoroughly heated 
 through and before setting down to business the thermometer 
 will register 104 or 105 degrees before it has time to reach the cor- 
 rect adjustment. The fact that the thermometer registers a little 
 high does not indicate that the inside of the eggs have reached 
 that degree of heat, as it requires several hours to change the 
 temperature of the egg more than one degree. 
 
 Testing. 
 
 The eggs should be tested as soon as the germ can be detected, 
 which is about five days for eggs with white shells, and one week 
 for eggs with brown or dark colored shells. In testing hold the 
 egg between the thumbs and fingers of both hands, keeping the 
 hands as flat as possible to exclude the light near the egg. Close 
 the hands on the eggs so there will not be any openings for light 
 between the hands and eggs. Then by holding the egg before a 
 strong light you can see perfectly the condition of the egg and its 
 contents. Egg testers are not to be compared with this sj'stem 
 after having a little practice and learning just how to hold the egg. 
 
22 
 
 Three eggs may be tested in this manner in the same time re- 
 quired to test one with an ordinary tester. 
 
 Discard all eggs that are perfectly clear, and those having a 
 decided dark ring around the embryo, as these are imperfectly 
 fertilized and will not produce a chicken. 
 
 Chickens have more difficulty in getting out of the shells when 
 the temperature has been carried too low than they do when the 
 average temperature has been full high enough. Too much cool- 
 ing the first week will retard the growth of the embryo to such an- 
 extent that the albumen will not all be consumed. The chick 
 will hatch a day or two late and will be glued to everything it 
 touches. 
 
 Unless your machine is very poorly constructed, moisture 
 should never be supphed before the last week, and then is not re- 
 quired when newly layed eggs are being incubated. When the 
 hatch is delayed and the chicks are slow in breaking the shell, 
 dampen a woolen cloth with hot water and lay it over the eggs. 
 
 As soon as the chicks are dried qS they should be removed 
 at once to the brooder. (See brooding.) 
 
 HATCHING WITH HENS. 
 
 All sorts of interesting and uninteresting advice has been given 
 ■about setting hens. When a person has one good hatch they 
 take it for granted that they have solved the problem. 
 
 Regarding the location of the nest, the advice most generally 
 given is to place it on the ground. After careful tests for thirty 
 years we are unable to say that the ground is a better place to set 
 a hen than the loft of a barn. 
 
 Poor results in hatching with hens may be traced to but few 
 causes provided the eggs are what they should be. Broken eggs" 
 in the nest IS the most common cause of failures and from a neglect 
 to thoroughly clean the shells so the pores will be opened. During 
 the first week of incubation it will not injure the embryo if the 
 egg IS thoroughly coated for twenty-four hours and then thorough- 
 ly cleaned. If coated twelve hours the second week the chances 
 are against them and the egg perfectly coated the third week for 
 two hours will kill the chick. . 
 
23 
 
 The quiet hen that would naturally be considered the best 
 setter is really the poorest hatcher, she retains the same position 
 on the nest too long at a time, not giving the eggs air or the em- 
 bryo exercise by moving about and changing the position of the 
 eggs. The hens doing the best work are those having a nervous 
 temperament, changing about on the nest and changing the posi- 
 tion of the eggs in the nest with their beak. 
 
 When you have.^^ xlose setter, she should be lifted every time 
 you have the opportunity, changing the eggs about in the nest 
 with your hands. The eggs that feel cool, or not quite as warm as 
 others should be placed in the center of the nest. 
 
 You can save every chick by removing the eggs as soon as the 
 first one is found pipped and placing them between woolen cloths 
 thick enough to retain the heat and keeping them near the 
 stove or in a temperature from eighty to ninety degrees. This 
 would not answer foir three or four eggs containing chicks without 
 keeping them in a warmer place, but where there are ten or more 
 the heat of the chicks will do the work when properly retained. 
 Your chicks will then be free from lice and may be raised in our 
 brooder without artificial heat. 
 
 We shipped eggs this summer that were about to hatch, over 
 three hundred miles by express. They were billed out eggs, and 
 received as chickens with a one hundred per cent, hatch. The 
 next week we received a letter from the party receiving the chicks 
 saying that he had received a box containing fourteen fine chick- 
 ens and some eggs shells. These eggs were properly incubated 
 and would have hatched if laid on the floor and covered with a 
 blanket. 
 
 BROODING THE CHICKS. 
 
 Chickens may be raised and kept in perfect condition without 
 supplying artificial heat. It is easier, however, to use some heat 
 for the first two or three days in Summer and a week or two in 
 the Winter or early Spring. 
 
 As soon as they are out of the shell, or at least a dozen or more 
 of them, they should be removed to the brooder having a tempera- 
 ture sufficient to keep them comfortable without crowding. We 
 never use a thermometer in the brooder as it is better to watch 
 the condition of the chickens and regulate the heat to make them_ 
 
24 
 
 comfortable. Many times when governing the heat of the brood- 
 er by fixed rules the chicks will be overheated or possibly chilled. 
 Just a glance at them should tell one whether they are comfortable 
 and when guided in this manner the results will be more satis- 
 factory. 
 
 After carefully testing our new brooder without artificial heat 
 the old style brooder will be a thing of the past. (See Broodei 
 without heat.) 
 
 Chicks removed to the brooder while very young learn the ways 
 of the brooder more quickly than the ones that are left in the 
 hatcher for a day or two. The last efforts to free themselves from 
 the shell is a greater tax on their system than at any other time 
 during incubation. Absorbing the yolk of the egg is next to the 
 last work accomplished by them before leaving the shell, by this 
 act they are provided with food and should sleep quietly during 
 the next twelve hours. 
 
 Large brooders are a mistake no matter how many chickens 
 are to be hatched or raised. It is better to keep them in small 
 flecks, not over fifty the first week and twenty-five will do better 
 1 han more. The second week they should be divided in flocks of 
 twenty to twenty-five and when forcing a few fine speciinens for 
 the show or some special work they should again be divided leav- 
 ing but ten in one run. 
 
 When there is much more room in the brooder than the chicks 
 fill there is always circulating air that is a serious objection to the 
 youngsters' welfare. 
 
 When artificial heat is used in the brooder it is just as important 
 to have the heat automatically regulated as to regulate the tem- 
 perature of the incubator, as any fluctuations in the heat that 
 would prevent the egg from hatching would render the chick of 
 but little value. 
 
 A TRICK OF THE TRADE. 
 
 How to save fully matured chicks that could not hatch without help. 
 
 Fully one third of all the chickens that are fully developed at 
 the hatching time are unable to free themselves from the shell, 
 and many times unable to make the first little opening. When 
 they have been properly grown up to hatching time they can all 
 
25 
 
 be saved. There are just as many lost in proportion to the num- 
 ber set under hens, as in incubators. 
 
 When the time has come for the egg to hatch and there is no 
 sign of life, hold the egg to the light and find the air cell. With a 
 sharp pointed knife blade make an opening about the center of 
 the air cell. By holding your thumb firmly against the side of the 
 knife near the point of blade you will avoid cutting deep. Make 
 the opening the size of a dime and you can then see the condition 
 of the chick. When its beak is through the inner lining of the egg, 
 take the head of a pin holdi ng the pin at right angle with the egg 
 and carefully chip out the shell around the l^ge end of the egg 
 commencing at the chicks beak. By being a little careful the 
 shell may easily be chipped so it will disconnect the large end of 
 the shell without injuring the membrane or causing it to bleed. 
 
 Then roll the egg up in a moistened woolen cloth strip four 
 inches wide by about ten inches long.. The ends left open so the 
 chick can get out without assistance and lay the egg back in 
 the machine to hatch. 
 
 In the majority of cases it would not be necessary to cut the 
 shell loose with the pin as described, as the small opening in large 
 end of the egg furnishes a liberal supply of air, and chicks that 
 would not hatch otherwise come out nicely, without the danger 
 of smothering just as they are about to leave the shell, 
 as the woolen cloth causes the chick to sweat and softens the 
 lining of the egg so the chick can make its escape without any 
 great effort. 
 
 Our first experiment with the above plan was made several 
 years ago after we had bought two settings of expensive eggs, 
 When the time came for the eggs to hatch we found but ten eggs 
 containing chickens, eight of them hatched out nicely and the 
 other two could not crack the shell. The two eggs not hatched 
 represented to us $4.20 cents, worth making an effort to save. 
 We opened the large end and found the beaks open and the chick- 
 ens gasping for breath in their effort to crack the shell. After 
 watching them a few minutes their beaks closed, and the expan- 
 sion caused by breathing was not so great. They were rolled up 
 in cloth as above described and hatched out as bright and lively 
 as the rest, and all of the ten chicks were raised to matxuity. 
 
26 
 THE FIRST FOOD. 
 
 After the chickens have been properly hatched, the success in 
 raising them depends largely upon the care they get during 
 the first week. 
 
 Nearly all writers say,"starve the chicks after they are hatched" 
 some going as far as seventy-two hours before giving any food. 
 That is not nature's way, neither is it the best way. As soon as 
 the chickens are old enough to run about and pick for food they 
 should be given something nourishing to eat, and also something 
 to drink. 
 
 It is generally claimed that to give chickens food before they 
 have digested the absorbed yolk of the egg, the food given will 
 be used in place of the egg, and the chicken will run down ^nd 
 finally die. The facts are, that when the yolk is not digested it 
 has been baked or hardened by improper incubation, especially 
 overheating, leaving it in a hardened state causing it to become 
 indigestible. Although the chicken will sometimes live six or 
 eight weeks it will dwindle and die in spite of all that can be done 
 for it. The yoUc must remain in a liquid form until it has been 
 entirely used to build up the system of the chick. It matters not 
 how much food the chicken has been given, or how soon it was fed, 
 the yolk will be used, if not rendered indigestible before being ab- 
 sorbed. 
 
 The first food should be bread crumbs slightly moistened with 
 sweet milk. A very little at a time should be sprinkled around 
 several times during the day where the chicks run, or about every 
 two hours for best results. The bread used should be thoroughly 
 dried and baked so it-will roll fine. Hard boiled eggs rolled in 
 the dry crumbs will add variety to the ration and help to give them 
 a good start in life. Dry oat meal or oat flakes should be given 
 as soon as they will eat them and should be fed once each day 
 during the first three weeks. Both sweet milk and water is placed 
 before them as soon as they will drink. While it is possible to 
 raise chickens without anything to drink during the first week, 
 they do better when given both milk and water. When the sweet 
 milk is too expensive to feed we give Hardings Granulated Milk, 
 which is a condensed form of milk costing less than the sweet 
 milk and does very nicely for the chickens after they are two or 
 three weeks old. After the first day they are given a very little 
 
27 
 
 of Hardings Baby Chick Food twice daily, and the amount is in- 
 creased each day until they are given all they will eat twice daily 
 for the first three weeks, and longer if you can afford it. Dry 
 coarse wheat bran is placed before them the first day, in little 
 boxes about one inch deep and is kept before them constantly at, 
 all times, and at all ages of the poultry. When they are educated 
 from the first to eat bran it is astonishing to see the amount they 
 will consume. If they are out of the bran for a half day and then 
 given a fresh supply they will leave all other food and eat the 
 bran. Half the bulk of food used for our poultry at all ages is 
 dry wheat bran. 
 
 Fine grit sand or fine gravel is given them from the first, al- 
 though fed very sparingly the first day or until the chickens know 
 its value. If given all they will eat at first they will sometimes 
 eat too much, but are not so much inclined to when fed very young. 
 
 Finely cut clover is used for litter and a large portion of it is 
 eaten by the chickens. It adds bulk to the food and helps to ex- 
 pand the crop giving it a large capacity which is necessary to get 
 the best results. 
 
 In feeding the sweet milk it is necessary to give it in a way that 
 will prevent the chickens from getting it on them. We use the 
 Lathrop chick server and find them very satisfactory. 
 
 Raw lean meat is very fine food when it can be obtained with- 
 out costing too much, althou jhour wofkis very successful without 
 it. It was not used this season in our home yard, where we raised 
 so many chickens without lus= and in perfect condition. 
 
 FEEDING THE FIRST THREE WEEKS. 
 
 The chicken that is propeny handled the first week of its life is 
 practically half raised. Like incubation if the first week's work 
 is properly executed the results are reasonably sure and the work 
 easy if not the proper conditions may never be expected to ex- 
 ist with a lot of chickens that have been improperly handled the 
 first week 
 
 After 'the first week the bread and milk may be discontinued, 
 although one feeding a day would be an advantage where the sup- 
 ply may be had at not too great an expense. 
 
 If not on the ground a liberal amount of garden soil or sand 
 should be sifted and spread over the run for the chicks to work in. 
 
28 
 
 It will aid digestion and strengthen the legs, which will be necessary 
 to keep pace with the rapidly increasing weight of the body 
 Some of the chick food should be thoroughly mixed in the soil 
 every day. It will keep them hustling to find the little seeds and 
 finely cracked grain. 
 
 ' Never attempt to raise chickens in cellars, or any place below 
 the surface of the ground. 
 
 GRADING. 
 
 One of the most difficult tasks is grading the chickens without 
 discarding valuable birds, and doing the work in time to fit the 
 seconds for two pound broilers when but eight weeks old. 
 
 The color of the eye sometimes changes when they are from 
 eight to ten weeks old, so it will be necessary to do some guess 
 work in grading three weeks old chickens regarding the color of 
 the eyes; The earlobes also change and take on the final color 
 when from eight to ten weeks old. 
 
 The color of the feathers on buff and white breeds should be 
 good when the chicken is small and the feathers just starting, al- 
 though there is often a slight change in the color when they take 
 on their adult pljmage. The best specimens may be selected 
 when they are but three weeks old. The legs and beak change 
 some aftei this age, still they are beginning to take on the final 
 color, and a very fair conclusion may be made. 
 
 It is not difficult after a little practice to tell about what~ the 
 comb will be, and all birds not strictly up to your expectations 
 in that respect should be turned into broilers, excepting the early 
 pullets that are bred for eggs, as they ^should be retained regard- 
 less of the required standard qualities. 
 
 The utility birds are more easily selected at a very young age 
 as those looking the brightest and the ones maturing in advance 
 of others of the same age will always make the hustling hens. 
 They should have a bright keen eye, be quick in motion, and be 
 the first to reach the feed when it is given them. This class will 
 be the last to take up their abode for the night, and the first to 
 put in an appearance in the morning. 
 
29 
 TWO POUND BROILERS IN EIGHT WEEKS. 
 
 The care of the chickens during the first three weeks is the same 
 as before described, and the work of finishing up the broilers is ac- 
 complished in the following five weeks. 
 
 After the first three weeks they should be fed little and often, 
 five times daily to get the best development in the shortest space 
 of time. 
 
 All food should be moistened with milk excepting the cracked 
 com fed at night and the dry wheat bran that is constantly before 
 
 TjWo-Pound Broilers, Eight Weeks Old. 
 
 them. Sweet milk to drink, as well as water, should be given to 
 get the best quality and largest quantity at the proper age 
 
 The mash at first should consist of equal parts of corn meal, 
 ground oats and wheat bran. When they are four weeks old 
 gradually change the bran for middlings until one sixth of the 
 mash is composed of middlings when six weeks old gradually in- 
 crease the amount of com meal and add a little linseed meal to 
 the mixture. 
 
30 
 
 All moistened food for chicks or fowls should be slightly salted 
 as if for table use. 
 
 The chicks should be provided with cut clover, or other green 
 food, and not over twenty chicks put in a single flock. 
 
 When forcing for heavy weight they must be kept on the ground 
 to prevent leg weakness. The ground should be spaded nearly 
 every day and not allowed to get wet from a soaking rain. 
 
 When the feeding has been properly handled the crops should 
 be stuffed at night. If they are not full and the chicks are iii- 
 clined to fill them, a iittle less food should be given early in the 
 day and gradually increased untii the last feeding time at aigh<-. 
 
 When broilers are allowed to roam the fields they develop 
 muscles in the legs and the fies"h will be nearly as hard and firm as 
 that of older fowls. A broiler raised by this system is as tender 
 as a squab and the quality cannot be excelled. 
 
 In a few instances we have raised broilers weighing a little over 
 two pounds in seven weeks. 
 
 LEG WEAKNESS. 
 
 Winter chicks are often troubl<;d with a weakness of the legs, 
 and some times the toes will turn under until they lose the use 
 of their feet. Indigestion is the cause, and the best remedy is to 
 stop all fattening food such as corn and com meal. Give plenty 
 of ground oats, wheat bran and milk, until they have recovered 
 the use of the feet, then feed sparingly of rich foods and those 
 hard to digest. 
 
 Leg weakeness is seldom, if ever, found when the chicks are on 
 the ground, and when it is possible to keep them there it is much 
 better than on board floors. 
 
 GAPES. 
 
 The gap worm is bred and lives in the ground during the Win- 
 ter multiplying in the windpipe of the chick from two to six weeks 
 old. Chicks that are already troubled may be kept in our Anti- 
 Lice brooder using airslaked Hmeand pulverized sulphur sprinkl- 
 ed over the hanging cloth of the brooder. When the chicks 
 
31 
 
 move about in the brooder the lime is sifted through the cloth 
 causing the chicks to enhale a little of it during the night. A very 
 little of the lime should be used at a time or you will likely smoth- 
 er the chicks. The same treatment is also good for colds, canker 
 etc. 
 
 When fresh ground from the field is supplied for the brooder 
 runs to a depth of about ten inches your chicks will never have 
 the gapes. 
 
 LICE. 
 
 Sprinkle a little Uce powder over the hanging cloth of the anti- 
 louse brooder and there will be no lice. 
 
 When the buildings are overrun with lice the best remedy is 
 boiling water. Thoroughly drench the inside of the building 
 with dippers full of boiling water. Do not use a spray as the 
 water will cool before reaching the lice. 
 
 Dissolve as much salt as possible in the water and one treat- 
 ment will generally last a full season. 
 
 Old fowls dusting in wood ashes will be free from lice. 
 
 iJ- FEEDING FROM THREE TO EIGHT WEEKS. 
 
 - T 
 
 All chickens that are intended for breeders or to stock the egg 
 farm should be fed to produce bone and muscle after they are 
 tferee weeks old, rather than flesh. They take on fat readily 
 during the next few weeks, and unless properly fed are likely to 
 get too heavy for their legs, and also troubled with indigestion, 
 either- of which will retard the growth and make a second of 
 chicks that should stand in the front rank. 
 
 After three weeks old they should be fed as many kinds of 
 small grain as you can get, including cracked com for the night 
 food. This should be given in the morning and at night. Dur- 
 ing the day they have all the dry wheat bran they will eat, and 
 a verj- little chick food is raked in the run to keep them busy. 
 Qyeenjood or finely cut clover is supplied every day. Avery 
 "jlttle meat scraps or fresh lean meat is excellent,but not altogether 
 necessary, unless in case of weakness in the parent stock caused 
 
32 
 
 by inbreeding or improper feeding. When the meat is not sup- 
 plied, either sweet or granulated milk should be fed. Unless 
 there is an abundant supply of natural grit, the manufactured 
 . kind should be fed liberally. 
 
 FROM EIGHT WEEKS TO MATURITY. 
 
 When the chicken has been properly handled until eight weeks, 
 old its whole nature soon changes and the food given all goes to 
 
 Oats and Wheat Bran Devlop the Frame. 
 
 Duild Up tne frame. At this age they will stand very heavy feed- 
 ing without injury, or adding to their flesh, in fact it is very diffi- 
 cult to keep them in good condition for market or the table, as 
 the tendency is to grow lean and lank rather than fat. 
 
 In order to keep up with the rapid pace of development it ioi 
 necessary to tenipt thdr appetite by feeding moistened mask for 
 
33 
 
 the morning food and also late at night so there will be some for 
 the early morning before the attendant has put in an appearance. 
 
 The mash should consist of equal parts ground oats, wheat bran 
 and com meal slightly moistened with milk, and seasoned with a 
 little salt. When the milk cannot be had, some granulated milk, 
 fresh lean meat, or meat scraps should be fed in small quantities. 
 
 At noon they are given whole oats that have been covered with 
 water since morning. After the first week they may be fed dry. 
 
 Dry wheat bran, green food or cut clover must be fed to fur- 
 nish the bulk and keep them in perfect condition. 
 
 Cracked com is fed late in the afternoon before giving the mash 
 for night. In this way they are induced to eat more than they , 
 otherwise would, should the mash and cracked com be fed at the 
 same time. 
 
 The success of the work depends entirely upon the amount of 
 food they can be made to consume and digest. Besides the quick 
 development we get hens better adapted for the large egg yields, 
 as all food not required to keep up the system must be turned 
 into eggs, and the amount of the egg yield depends entirely upon 
 the amount of food the hen can be made to consume. 
 
 FEEDING FOR EARLY MATURITY. 
 
 The pullets are now three months old, and have been fed in a 
 manner to develop the frame with large strong bones, lacking only 
 the filling out to make perfectly matured birds. 
 
 Our aim now is to feed all we can get them to eat of as many 
 kinds of food as we can get, consisting of whole grain, ground food, 
 shell, green food, etc. The time of the day for feeding the different 
 kinds of food does notmatterverymuchifthey get whole grain at 
 night with a liberal amount of com. To determine when they 
 are properly fed the condition of the crop at roosting time and in 
 the early morning will tell the story. When ready for the roosts 
 the crops should be completely filled and rather hard, and in the 
 morning they should be comparatively empty. 
 
 When the crops are not completely filled at night there is some- 
 thinglacking in the bill of fare that they need, and should be tried 
 with a little of every thing we have to feed until they get what they 
 are so much in need of. The bulky food should be given largely 
 
34 
 
 during the early part of the day as it is easily digested, giving 
 them a good appetite for the more substantial food later in theday. 
 When food is left in the crop in the early morning there should 
 be more gravel or grit fed, and for this we prefer ground oyster 
 or clam shells in addition to the gravel- as it supplies lime besides 
 digesting material in larger quantities than obtained from the 
 crushed stone, marble, or granite. When this fails to bring the 
 desired results, less solid food should be given them, and more 
 of the bulky food. Cases of indigestion are seldom found when 
 they have access to the dry wheat bran. 
 
 The wet mash should be fed at least once each day, either in 
 the morning or at noon consisting of: 
 
 100 pounds wheat bran 
 
 50 lbs. com meal 
 
 50 pounds ground oats 
 
 25 pounds oil cake meal 
 
 25 pounds dry beef scraps. 
 The mash should be seasoned with a little salt and a very little 
 pepper, either black or red, but not more than would be used to 
 season food for the table. 
 
 Dry wheat bran and whole oats, should be kept before them all 
 of the time. 
 
 HOW TO GET LARGE EGG YIELD. 
 
 In the care of the breeding stock the essential points are well 
 covered to get large egg yields. When the eggs are to be market- 
 ed and are not used for incubation, better yields may be had by 
 increasing the amount of meat food and providing sweet milk after 
 the br.tter fat has been removed. The milk will not injure the 
 quality of the eggs for incubation, neither will fresh lean meat. 
 Commercial meat scraps when not composed entirely of lean meat 
 will injure the quality of eggs for hatching when fed in quantities 
 to get the largest egg yield. 
 
 The best egg yields are obtained where the hens have an abun- 
 dance of bulky food, clean water, oyster shells, sweet milk, fresh 
 lean meat, a large variety of grain, dry wheat bran, and a com- 
 fortable roosting place. Never feed laying hens by measure. 
 Give them all they will eat or you cannot get the best egg 
 yield. See that the hens are provided with all of the above 
 and your egg basket will be well filled. 
 
is 
 HOW TO BUILD THE. BROODER COOP. 
 
 The sides and ends making the body part of the coop is made 
 from one inch lumber, dressed sides and edges so they may be 
 painted to make them more attractive and durable. 
 
 The front and back boards are twelve inches wide and six feet 
 long. The ends and center partitions are eleven inches wide and 
 two feet ten inches long, being made one inch narrower to pro- 
 vide room for the light wood frame covered with wire netting 
 and muslin so the top will come just as high as the top edge 
 of the front and back boards. 
 
 The center partition is held in position with cleats so it can be 
 easily removed when not required to retain the heat for the little 
 chickens. One comer of the partition board is cut out to make 
 an opening four by four inches for the chickens to run back and 
 forth. ' 
 
 The frame to. cover the top is made of one- half by two inch 
 strips dressed all sides and is made six feet long by two feet nine 
 . and three-quarter inches wide, or just right size to fit the opening 
 loosely where it is to be used. One end of this frame is covered 
 Yidth a medium grade of unbleached muslin, and the other end 
 with one inch mesh wire netting. The inth mesh being used 
 to keep sparrows out. 
 
 The end covered with musUn is placed over the brooder end to 
 retain theheat and give -perfect ventilation. The frames are neither 
 hinged or fastened in position, as it is handy to have them mov- 
 able for the several different uses and adjustments, and are used 
 later in the season when the chickens are large to form the front 
 half of the gable roof. 
 
 The cover or roof is made of thin lumber three feet long nailed 
 at the ends on two cleats two by one inch and six feet long. The 
 thin lumber is, covered with water proofing material to protect 
 the lumber and keep the outside of the coop dry, and the roof is 
 hinged to the back board of the coop. When closed at night 
 there is a space of one-half inch above the muslin on either end for 
 ventilation. 
 
 When brooding chickens during the coldest Winter weather, 
 both ends of the frame should be coverd with muslin, and a 
 strip of glass about ten inches along the front edge of frame in 
 place of muslin is an advantage during zero weather and dark days. 
 
m 
 
 (^rooder Coop. 
 
37 
 
 HOW TO USE THE BROODER COOP. 
 
 During warm weather the chickens may be placed in the brood- 
 er coops, and brooder without artificial heat as soon as hatched 
 and dried off. If removed to the brooder while very young they 
 learn to accept it quickly, running out and in without attention. 
 (See brooding with self suppUed heat) 
 
 They are confined to the brooder end of the coop under the mus- 
 lin until they are two or three days old, or old enough so they will 
 find their way back to the brooder without assistance. ]_^ 
 
 The ground under the coop should consist largely of sand or 
 gravel, and thoroughly sifted unless very fine and mellow that 
 the chick food may be raked in and the chicks able to scratch it 
 all out. When the chicks are larger it is necessary to spade the 
 ground to keep.it clean and in healthful condition for the chickens. 
 
 When there is twice as much ground as required for coops it is an 
 advantage to move the coops once each week to give the ground 
 a chance to purify the soil by absorbing the ammonia and de- 
 composed matter from the droppings, requiring less spading to 
 keep everything in a perfect sanitary condition. 
 
 It is not uncommon to find filthy conditions in poultry yards 
 where valuable stock is being raised, when a few minutes properly 
 used every day would keep ever)rthing in fine order. 
 
 The cover is used as a protection against storm, and the direct 
 rays of the sun when too warm for the comfort of the chickens, 
 and may be lifted to any desired angle to make the chickens com- 
 fortable with unfavorable weather conditions. When the chicks 
 are very young the cover is let down flat at night to retain the 
 heat. 
 
 The illustration JFig. 3, shows the adjustment after being con- 
 verted into a colony coop. The partition is removed and a six 
 foot roost nailed at the ends about one foot from the back, so the 
 bottom edge of the front frame may be dropped to the ground 
 without interfering with the roosting chickens, the roof will then 
 nearly cover the top. The roof and frame are brought together 
 at the top and held in position with screw hooks. Muslin is 
 tacked loosely on the ends bf cover and also on the body part of 
 the coop near the top edge to enclose the ends. By placing the 
 muslin so the selvedge edge will come next to the frame it ;vill 
 not require tacking there, and the frame may be removed to 
 catch chickens, or to let the cover down in case of a severe storm. 
 
38 
 
 The cost of this brooder coop is not over half the <:ost of 
 coops commonly used for the same purpose. The chickens are 
 at all times under the best possible conditions to raise tnem 
 practically without loss. 
 
 For an experiment a cockerel weighing about three POU^ds 
 was taken from one of the coops and given his liberty, and the 
 free run of the garden. In just a month he gained one pound 
 in weight while those confined in the coops gained one and a 
 half pounds each. This bird was given the same kind of food 
 as those confined besides having the pick of the garden. 
 
 SUMMER COLONY COOP. 
 
 Every poultryman, farmer or fancier will find our light colony 
 coop of much value.even though our entire system is not adopted. 
 They are especially well adapted for use as a desirable place to 
 keep a small breeding pen from early spring until the end of the 
 season. They may also be used to the best advantage as a brood- 
 er coop, .as well as for broody hens, fattening cockerels, maturing 
 pullets, and growing the capons. 
 
 The cost of material and labor to build this style coop is not 
 over half that required to build the ordinary coop, and its value 
 in a poultry plant can hardly be over estimated. 
 
 Two panels four feet wide and twelve feet long are used in form- 
 ing the coop. Two three cornered ends are made with doors, and 
 one partition covered with muslin make the complete coop with- 
 out furniture. The center partition being used only in cold weath- 
 er to retain the heat while the fowls are roosting, or when used as 
 a brooder coop to retain the heat for the chickens. 
 
 The lumber ;j?ed is hnlf or three-quarter inch strips two incJies 
 wide and four feet long runningup and down, the ends are nailed to 
 three by one inch strips twelve feet long. Heavy water proof 
 roofing material is used to enclose the ends and six feet of the cen- 
 ter is covered with one inch mesh wire netting, making a roosting 
 room, feed room and park, The one inch mesh wir? is used to 
 keep "-parrows out- 
 
39 
 
 art. — -r^ 
 
 CONSTRUCTION OF THE COLOY COOP. 
 
 To make the panels mark out a place on a floor four feet wide 
 by twelve feet long, and draw a four foot cross line, three feet 
 from either end leaving six feet in the center. By measuring 
 with a ro.i about thirteen feet long from corner to corner in the 
 form of a letter X you will get the panels perfectly square when 
 the measurements are alike from either corner. Nail four or five 
 cleats 'along each of the twelve foot hnes, place the two inch strip 
 twelve feet long on one of the lines and the three inch strip on the 
 other. Cut roofing material that is three feet wide in strips four 
 feet long, and one inch mesh wire netting that is f jur feet wide in 
 strips six feet three inches long. Tack the roofing an'l netting 
 in place on one of the twelve foot stripes, then nail over this the 
 six, four foot strips as indicated in the drawing. Nail other end 
 of the four foot strips, and also the roofing and wire to the other 
 long strip drawing it tight and smooth. Turn the panel over and 
 nail the roofing and netting to the four foot strips, and the panel 
 will be completed. 
 
46 
 
 When two long panels have been completed stand theni up and 
 fasten the top edges together, then spread the bottoins three teet 
 six inches. You will then have the exact size and shape tor the 
 end panels. Make a drawing on the floor of this size. Lay a 
 piece of ten inch board along the bottom line, then hold over the 
 long lines a straight edge strip which will give the bevel to mark 
 the ten inch board making a pattern to be used in markmg out as 
 •many of the ten inch boards as will be needed to complete the 
 
 • coops. . 
 
 In the same manner lay a one by two inch strips along the tour 
 foot line, find the center o^ the bottom line which will be twenty 
 two inches from the corner, lay a strip over this line with the other 
 end over a point where the two four feet lines intersect, marking 
 along this strip will give the correct miter for the upper comer, 
 and a pattern to use in laying out the others. The doors are 
 mace in the same manner of a proper size to fit inside the other 
 frame, and long enough to lap a half inch over the face side of 
 
 the ten inch base board. 
 
 The doors are covered with muslin or roofing material and hing- 
 ed to the frame making the end panel. 
 
 When used early in the spring and late in the fall panels four 
 by six feet covered with roofing material are used over the netting 
 to protect the birds from the rain and snow. They are fastened 
 at the top with screw hooks or light hinges, and are raised at any 
 desired angle to overcome unfavorable weather conditions. 
 
 The arrangement of the roosts, nests, etc., are plainly shown in 
 the drawings. 
 
 HOW TO USE THE COLONY COOP. 
 
 It is best to place the colony coop over mellow soil without 
 grass sod, as the fowls require exercise to keep them in perfect 
 condition. A handful of whole oats raked or spaded in the mel- 
 low soil every day will provide the necessary attraction and also 
 some green food, as some of the grain will not be discovered until 
 it sends forth a delicate sprout that is greatly admired. 
 
 When not limited for room, the most desirable conditions may 
 be had by seeding to clover a strip of ground six feet wide by 
 twenty-five feet long. One by six inch hemlock boards should be 
 
41 
 
 placed in the ground along either edge of the clover sod, extending 
 about one inch above the sod to protect the edges from being 
 scratched out. The colony coop is placed crosswise over the sod 
 (when thoroughly established,) in a manner to bring the portion 
 enclosed in netting over the sod with the three feet on either 
 end over mellow soil for exercise and dusting. The coop is mov- 
 ed three and one half feet, or just its width every day to give its 
 occupants a fresh supply of clover, and also to prevent them 
 from digging up the roots. The space of twenty five feet will al- 
 low seven days for moving the coop without being in the same 
 position any two days, allowing seven days to replenish the clover 
 that is consumed in one day. This brings about ideal conditions 
 for a breeding pen of six hens, and when they fail under such con- 
 ditions to produce six eggs per day many days in the season they 
 have not been properly bred. 
 
 When limited for room the coop may be kept in one position 
 during the entire season by thoroughly working the soil. 
 
 WINTER COLONY COOP. 
 
 In our winter colony coop we have combined a complete poul - 
 try plant, especially well adapted for housing and yarding poul- 
 try of all ages from the day they are first hatched, at all seasons 
 of the year, and in all weather conditions from the hottest summer 
 days of the south to the coldest days of the extreme north. With 
 this coop it is possible for parties renting property, and the city 
 fancier limited for space to raise as fine poultry, and get as large 
 returns as the farmer who has unlimited range. The entire 
 poultry plant is moved as easily as household furniture,and a day's 
 notice (without handling a hen) will enable one to locate his plant 
 many miles from the original site. 
 
 Many people refrain from keeping poultry on account of the 
 cost of building without any assurance of being able to dispose 
 of the buildings at the original cost. With our system there will 
 be a demand for the coops when properly constructed of good 
 material at nearly the price of their actual cost, as booder and 
 colony coops are always in great demand,and the cost of building 
 them to accomodate any number of hens is not over three-fourths 
 as much as a large house would cost to accomodate the same num- 
 
42 
 
 ber of fowls. The egg yield will be at least twenty-five per cent, 
 greater than where twenty-five to fifty hens are kept in one tlock, 
 and-alargernumberof the chickens hatched may be raised, 
 making better fowls than would be possible to raise under ordi- 
 nary conditions. 
 
 DESCRIPTION. 
 
 The standard size of the coop is three feet wide, six feet long 
 and four feet high to the eaves with a gable one foot higher mak- 
 ing the extreme height five feet to the top of the gable. It is 
 made two stories high with nest boxes, roosts, feeding troughs 
 etc., on the second floor. Aside from the space required for nest 
 boxes, stairs etc., there is left about thirty square feet of floor 
 space,which is ampk room for six laying hens and one male bird, 
 fifty chicks the first three weeks or twenty-five chickens until 
 they weigh three pounds each. Fifteen pullets may be matured 
 until they are ready to lay, or twelve capons grown to perfection. 
 It has many advantages over the brooder and colony coop, and 
 were it not for the fact that they are more -expensive to build this 
 one style is all we would ever use. 
 
 CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 They are made from half inch, three-fourths or one inch lum- 
 ber either matched or square edged and dressed. When a good 
 grade of matched lumber is used in the construction and nicely 
 painted they make a very attractive coop that does not look out 
 of place in the best kept yards. When the cheaper grades of 
 lumber is used it is necessary to cover the entire outside with 
 water proof roofing material, and when a good grade is used, and 
 nicely applied they are attractive and durable. 
 
 The ends are made three feet wide, four feet high to the eaves, 
 and one foot higher to the top of gable. One end is made solid 
 with three cross cleats of one by two inch lumber, one being 
 nailed at the bottom, one two feet from the bottom for the second 
 floor to rest on and the other across to the eaves. The other end 
 is made like a frame with three inch sides, three inch bottom and 
 
iVinter Colony Coop, 
 
 Frames are made of 5^ x 1 inch strips of lumber and covered with one-inch wire netting to 
 enclose the lower story. Wire nails axe inserted in small holes through the ends of the coop 
 into the ends of the frames to hold them in position. The frames are removed when spading or 
 raking the soil and should be made about half an inch smaller.than the opening, 
 
44 
 
 gable, leaving an opening two feet six inches wide by three feet 
 nine high to be covered with muslin, and wire cloth to keep out 
 dogs, cats, rats etc. Extreme cold nights the coop is closed with 
 the exception of this window which provides the necessary ventil- 
 . ation. Where the climate is very cold it is well to make a 
 frame just the right size to fit this opening, covering it with 
 muslin to keep out the cold. When in place there will be 
 about an inch space between the two thicknesses of muslin 
 covering the window opening. 
 
 The sides are composed of two panels two feet wide by six feet 
 long and hinged in the center, the top half being secured with 
 nails or screws to the ends, and the bottom half left unfastened so 
 it may be opened by swinging up from the bottom. Both sides 
 are made alike. 
 
 The floor for the second story is made three feet wide and five 
 feet ten inches long, leaving an opening ten inches wide 
 by twenty inches long at the window end for the stairs 
 which is made from a board just wide enough to close the opening 
 and three feet long. Blocks are nailed on to aid the chickens in 
 climbing.and the board is hinged at the back ends so it may be 
 lifted on very cold nights to retain the heat, and closed while very 
 young chickens are being raised in the upper story until they are 
 large enough to ascend the stairs. 
 
 The back portion of the roof is covered with one panel two feet 
 wide by six feet four inches long, allowing a projection of two in- 
 ches at the eaves and over the gable ends. The front is the same 
 size, and divided in two sections that one may be raised at a time. 
 They are cleated on the ends of the boards that the battens will 
 not interfere with the frames under them. They are hinged to 
 the top of the back roof and allowed to extend over it one inch so 
 there will be a one inch lap when the front is open to prevent the 
 rain from leaking through. This one and one half inch is added 
 to their width making them two feet and one inch wide, or one 
 inch wider than the back portion of the roof. 
 
 Two frames are made of one half by two inch lumber, lapped 
 and nailed at the corners, and just the right size to fit the open- 
 ing when the front half of the roof is raised. One of these frames 
 is covered with muslin and the other with wire netting. In fine 
 weather both sides of the front portion of the roof is opened, and 
 on very cold days the side over the muslin. These frames are 
 
45 
 
 made to slide. In feeding and caring for the fowls one frame 
 is slid over the other, and both are removed when cleaning the 
 second floor after the fowls have been driven down stairs. 
 
 In making the nests a ten inch board, two feet four inches long 
 is placed in the opposite end fro-n the window fourteen inches 
 from the end, two pieces of lumber fourteen inches long and three 
 inches wide are used to divide the two nests and hold the straw in 
 place where the hens enter. A board fourteen inches wide by 
 three feet long is placed over the nests with a two inch strip around 
 the sides, and a roost one by two inches and three feet long 
 is fastened in position in the center of the board three inches above 
 it. The roost is used for a handle to remove the dropping board 
 to gather the eggs or to clean the board, which should be aportion 
 of the days work. 
 
 A strip of lumber two inches wide is' placed at the window end 
 of the coop next to the stairs to prevent the litter from being 
 s::ratched down stairs. 
 
 A frame is made of two by fours, twelve feet long and three feet 
 wide with one center piece. They are set edgewise and are used 
 as sills. Place them where you wish the coop to stand, and level 
 them with the top about two inches above the ground leaving a 
 two inch space inside to be filled with fine gravel and sand. The 
 coop is placed on one end of these sills facing the south in winter 
 and north in the summer. A child or lady can lift one end of the 
 coop with a short lever, and slide under it a broom handle or gas 
 pipe, allowing it to be pushed along easily for cleaning. During 
 the summer it should be alternated on the sills once every week, 
 and in the winter kept over the one end to keep the soil as dry as 
 possible. 
 
 " The door on the back side of the first floor of the coop is never 
 opened in winter, and the front side is opened on pleasant days. 
 By opening both sides and the front half of the roof in summer 
 a shade is provided by the hanging doors and roof and admitting 
 a free circulation of air to keep the fowls comfortable, and in fine 
 condition. 
 
 As these coops are all made from panels they may be con- 
 structed indoors, and but few minutes will be required to set 
 them up when completed. 
 
 Twelve foot lumber either six or twelve inches wide is used 
 without waste and with but little ripping the boards. 
 
46 
 
 TRAP NEST CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 Half inch lumber is used in making the trap nest. " The size we 
 prefer is twelve inches deep eighteen inches long and thirteen in- 
 ches wide. The sides of the box containing the nest is twelve in- 
 ches wide by eighteen inches long, the back end is twelve inches 
 wide by thirteen inches long and the top fourteen inches wide by 
 eighteen inches long. The bottom board on which the nest, is 
 placed is twelve and three-quarter inches wide by seventeen in- 
 ches long, and the rest is the same width of the bottom board 
 and thirteen inches long. The sides of the nest to keep the straw 
 in place are three inches wide. The trap is five inches wide by 
 twelve and three-quarter inches long. One inch screws are put 
 through the side of the box three and one-half inches from the 
 bottom into the trap board one inch from the front side. An eighth 
 inch hole is drilled through the side of the box so the trap will 
 work easily, and any desired tension may be had by tightening 
 the screw so a very light hen will spring the trap as she steps on 
 
47 
 
 the front part of the nest. A tin strap half inch wide by two and 
 one-half inches long connects the bottom board to the trap three 
 quarters of an inch from the screw upon which the trap swings. 
 When not using a front board for the hens to enter the nest it is 
 necessary to rip a half inch off the front side of trap (excepting a 
 small corner where the tin is attached) to prevent the nest being 
 closed as the hen enters, or before she steps in the nest. The trap 
 maybe reversed and used outside as an entrance board if desired. 
 The bottom board is held in place by two screws through the sides 
 of the box into the back end of board so the weight of the hen will 
 press the board down and close the nest. The cleat shown in 
 the drawing on the bottom board under the trap is not used, and 
 the trap is allowed to lay flat on the bottom board. 
 
 A three inch strip of lumber is nailed in the top of the front 
 opening so there will be an opening of two inches when the trap is 
 closed. 
 
 This nest is entirely without springs or catches, and is sure to 
 close when the hen enters. The weight of the trap, when open 
 holds it in position and all that is necessary to set it is to push it 
 down as in illustration. The measurements given in the drawing 
 are for Leghorns and other small breeds, and the size given in 
 the plan of construction is adapted to larger fowls. 
 
 BROODING CHICKENS WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEAT. 
 
 Thousands of chickens are raised every year without artificial 
 heat. It is not a new discovery as it has been practiced in China 
 and Egypt many centuries, yet Americans usually quick to take 
 advantage of improved mehods, have been slow in discovering 
 the advantages of this system. We as Americans are not satis- 
 fied to accomplish things is a small way like our ancient friends, 
 and have endeavored to devise appliances whereby the chickens 
 may be tiu-ned out like the output of great factories. Although 
 the output may be unlimited nature has something to say when 
 its laws are violated to any great extent. Raising the chickens 
 is not at all unlike hatching them. By furnishing a little higher 
 degree of heat than is given the eggs under natural condition we 
 hasten the process of incubation from twenty-four to forty-eight 
 hours, and get bright healthy looking youngsters until the time 
 
48 
 
 arrives for them to derive nourishment from the absorbed yolks 
 the excessive heating having hardened the yolk the chick must 
 soon perish. Chickens thrive for a time when subjected to a 
 temperature above that supplied by the mother hen, still the bad 
 effects are soon discovered and the chicken dwindles without any 
 apparent cause. Nature also rebels when the number of chicken, 
 in one flock is greatly in excess of those raised under natural con- 
 dition. 
 
 We have raised chickens successfully for many years without 
 supplying heat, and in many instances where the temperature 
 would drop below zero for a week at a time, and without loss or 
 bad effect on any of the chickens. Until the last few years our 
 experiments have been too elaborate, and complicated to be prac- 
 tical. All that is really required is a very simple devise by which 
 the natural heat of the chicken is retained. 
 
 The plan we give in this book is very simple yet the proper con- 
 ditions may be had for^successful work, and without the dangers 
 so common and fatal with the average artificially heated brooder. 
 
 ^Brooder Without Artificial Heat. 
 
 CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 Make a box of half inch or thicker lumber ten inches deep and 
 eighteen inches square. Rip the box six inches from the bottom 
 or four inches from the top so there will be two boxes without 
 covers that are hinged together so they will close as they were be- 
 fore ripping, near the top make six one inch holes in two ends for 
 ventilation. Make a frame of one half by one inch lumber so it 
 will fit the inside of the box, the corners being lapped and nailed. 
 On the underside of this frame tack cloth loosely so it will hang in 
 the center nearly two inches below the frame. Nail two cleats 
 
49 
 
 across the ends of the bottom box to hold the frame in position. 
 
 Cut an opening on the opposite side of the hinges in the bottom 
 section three and one-half by three and one-half inches squaire 
 for the chicks to enter. When the chickens crowd away from 
 the small opening in front of the hover on cool nights, a very 
 little of the litter should be scraped up in front of the opemng. 
 On very cold nights, when the chicks are small, it is sometimes 
 best to bank the opening with the litter until nearly closed. It 
 
 The proper type for market poultry, broilers, etc. 
 should never be entirely closed or the chicks will come out in 
 the morning like drowned rats. Just a little caution at first 
 until you have learned the "trick" and you will never return 
 to artificial heat When it is desirable to carry the brooder 
 about a screw hook may be used in front to fasten the two sec- 
 tions together. Iron handles can be purchased at the hardware 
 store for a few cents that may be screwed on the cente? q{ the to^ 
 
50 
 
 making it easy to handle with chickens in, although not as nice 
 to store away at the close of the season as without the handles. 
 •From ten to fifty chickens maybe kept in the brooder for one 
 week.twenty -five for three weeks, and twenty until they will weigh 
 one and a half pounds each. 
 
 BROODING 
 
 When the chicks are first hatched the box is filled to the cloth 
 covered frame with cut clover or other fine litter. A small nest 
 is made in the centre just large enough to hold the chickens, and 
 as soon as the chickens are old enough to run out, a httle depres- 
 sion is made in the litter to the opening of the brooder. -A half 
 pound of cotton batting is laid over the cloth frame for several 
 days or as long as needed to retain the heat when it may be re- 
 moved, or a portion at a time, and later some of the Utter is re- 
 moved as well as the cloth frame when the chickens are large en- 
 ough to raise the temperature of the brooder to the desired point. 
 
 'i'his brooder has the advantage of perfect ventilation without 
 draft, and no possible danger of chilling or overheating the chick- 
 ens. 
 
 FEED HOPPER. 
 
 A feed hopper that does not allow the fowls to waste a portion 
 of the dry mash is an exception to the rule. 
 
 The simple box arrangement illustrated above is more satisfac- 
 tory in our work than any other we have tried. It does not hold 
 as large a supply of feed as many, still the simplicity, cost of con- 
 struction, and saving in the feed should compensate for the ad- 
 ditional labor in filling. 
 
 The box is six inches deep, ten inches wide and as long as neces- 
 sary to accommodate the flock. Posts extending three inches 
 above tJie top of the box are nailed in the comers to hinge the 
 cover to and hold it in position. 
 
51 
 
 The box is filled a little over half full of feed and a strip of one 
 inch mesh wire netting just the size of the inside of the box is 
 laid on the feed which prevents the fowls drawing the feed out 
 of the box with their beaks. 
 
 GALVANIZED IRON TROUGH, 
 
 The illustration of the galvanized iron trough is well adapted 
 to our colony coops, and are used for either food or water. The 
 illustration shows the construction. The size we generally use is 
 three and one half inches deep, and two and one half inches across 
 the opening, and fifteen inches long. Two snaall holes are punch- 
 ed near the top of either end, and the trough is hooked over two 
 nails. They may be made any length as desired, but the width 
 should not be over the size given as the fowls could then stand in 
 them, or on the front edge. 
 
 Ice is easily removed by springing the sides, and will expand 
 rather than crack when the water is freezing. 
 
 By giving the ends a half inch bevel, making the bottom one 
 inch shorter than the top they may be nested, and will take less 
 room when stored. 
 
 SPROUTING OATS. 
 Green Food Costing About 15 cents per Bushel. 
 
 This food has proved itself to be for us a most excellent egg- 
 producer. It serves as a green food all the year round, and the 
 fowls are extremely fond of it. The way this feed is prepared is 
 as follows : 
 
 Take a quantity of oats or rye and soak them in water for 24 
 hours. Then poiu: off the water and put the oats in an ordinary 
 box which has holes in the bottom to let the water drain off. The 
 oats are watered with a sprinkUng-pot night and morning, using 
 very hot water — the hotter the better. As soon as the oats begin 
 to sprout we spread them out in the box to the thickness of two 
 
52 
 
 inches, and still continue to water them night and morning. In 
 about ten days or two "weeks, depending upon how warm the room 
 is in which they are kept, they will be ready to feed. When 
 in the proper condition to feed, the sod will be about three to four 
 inches thick, and the growth of green feed on top of this will be 
 about six or eight inches high. We feed a block about two or 
 three inches square of this to each pen of six fowls. We have been 
 
 v^atuting Pullets in the Colony Coop. 
 
 using this feed throughout the winter and must say that our hens 
 have never laid so well as this winter. We have averaged a fifty 
 per-cent egg production all winter long. This can be fed also to 
 young chicks, although it should be fed at a time when the sprouts 
 are an inch or two inches long. To keep the oats from growing 
 into stalk as it grows in the field it is necessary to turn it once or 
 
t 
 
 S3 
 
 twice a day. This will make the sprout grow very long, and pre- 
 vent the stalk from starting. 
 
 A $500.00 BUSINESS FROM 20 HENS. 
 
 Under several headings in this book we give particulars about 
 our work this season that has brought such large returns from 
 twenty hens on a space thirty by forty feet in our city garden. 
 While these figures are the results of our labor for several months 
 less than a year, it has taken us five years to build up the strains 
 of fowls from which this record was made. With our present 
 knowledge of selecting and breeding as set forth in this book we 
 think a better record could be made in a shorter space of time. 
 
 By having our little plant on a prominent street in the city we 
 had free advertising, and it proved to be the very best kind. 
 Parties passing could hardly help seeing a beautiful lot of pure 
 white fowls nicely kept, and the parties who were enlightened re- 
 garding the quality of stock could tell they were well bred. Early 
 in February we started hatching with the Cycle Metal Mother, or 
 Brocder-Hatcher which gave us three hundred chickens fi om 
 three hundred and fifty eggs set. All of the baby chickens were 
 brooded in the Metal Mother the first week, and egg#were being 
 incubated in the same machine constantly from February until 
 May, keeping a supply of newly hatched baby chickens in a glass 
 case where they could be seen by people passing by. It was 
 not long before there was a demand for the eggs at $5 per 
 setting in excess of the amount of eggs we wished to sell. Nine- 
 teen settings were sold netting us $95. 
 
 76 broilers were sold at eighteen cents per pound live weight 
 which brought us $38.40. 24 UtiUty pullets at $2 each, $48. 
 5 Utility cockerels at $3 each, $15. Two trios of breeders at|$10 
 each, $20. Total receipts to date $216.40. We now have one 
 hundred of the best pullets and thirty cockerels on hand that we 
 could sell quickly in the same market to nearby fanciers for $300 
 netting us $5 16. 40 from twenty hens in less than one year. There 
 are many very valuable birds in the lot that are worth to us very 
 much more than the price estimated. 
 
 While the space of ground occupied by the poultry has been 
 given as thirty by forty feet.one corner of this space had a small 
 building on is not usedforpoultry where fifty more chickens could 
 
54 
 
 have been raised, adding a considerable to the returns from the 
 small plot of ground. 
 
 We now have grape vines set between the coops to furnish 
 shade, and when they come into full bearing will add many dol- 
 lars to the income of the plant. 
 
 There were always eggs with imperfect shells that were not 
 suitable for hatching, supplying the table for a family of five. 
 
 Jl $500 Poultry Plant, 30 x 40 feet. 
 
 One to three chickens have been used on the table nearly every 
 week. Although an accurate account of the feed used for the 
 poultry, and the eggs and poultry for the table has not been kept, 
 it is safe to estimate that one will offset the other making the am- 
 ount of cash received for the poultry and eggs, and the poultry 
 now on hand a clear gain. 
 
NOTICE. 
 
 All the appliances used in connection with 
 the Philo System may be purchased of the 
 Cycle Hatcher Co., of Elmira, N. Y. Catalogue 
 free. i 
 
56 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Artificial Incubation 19 
 
 Brooding the Chickens 23 
 
 Brooding the Chicks Without Artificial Heat 47 
 
 Best Age for Breeders 12 
 
 Breeding in Line 13 
 
 Care of Breeding Stock •. 14 
 
 Construction of Summer Colony Coop. 39 
 
 Construction of the Winter Colony Coop 42 
 
 Construction of the Brooder Without Artificial Heat 48 
 
 Controlling the Sex 17 
 
 Description of the Winter Colony Coop 42 
 
 Fertility • 13 
 
 First Food..... 26 
 
 Feeding the First Three Weeks 27 
 
 Feeding from Three to Eight Weeks 31 
 
 Feeding from Eight Weeks to Maturity. 32 
 
 Feeding for Early Maturity. 33 
 
 Feed Hopper. 50 
 
 Grading..' 28 
 
 Gapes 30 
 
 Galvanized Iron Trough 51 
 
 Hatching with Hens 22 
 
 How to Use the Summer Colony Coops 40 
 
 How to Get Large Egg Yield 34 
 
 How to Build the Brooder Coop 35 
 
 How to Use the Brooder Coop 37 
 
 Keeping Eggs for Hatching 16 
 
 Leg Weakness 30 
 
 Lice 31 
 
 Location 6 
 
 Starting in the Business 5 
 
 Selecting Breeders to Produce Layers 7 
 
 Selecting Breeders for Broilers 9 
 
 Selecting Breeders for Exhibition.. 10 
 
 Selecting Eggs 18 
 
 Summer Colony Coop 38 
 
 Sprouting Oats 51 
 
 Two Pound Broilers in Eight Weeks 29 
 
 Trick of tha trade 24 
 
 Trap nest construction 46 
 
 Winter Colony Coop 41 
 
 $600.00 Business from Twenty Hens ........................................... 53 
 
ill Ot© in ID IB E 
 
 Pamphlet 
 Binder 
 
 Gaylord Bros., Inc. 
 
 Makers 
 ■Syracuse, N.Y. 
 
 Pat. No. 877188