LIBRARY ANNEX M2 d CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARV 924 058 948 94B I Cornell University ^ Library The original of tiiis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924058948948 DMC LIBRARY Drawn Thread Work St Series ALBERi R. fVIAiv^ LIBRARY TjRNELL UNIVFP' EDITIONS TH. de DILLMONT Societe a responsabilite limitee MULHOUSE (France) All rights reserved 538 openwork insertion with knotted clusters set contrariwise, overcast bars and festoons in darning stitch. Dra^vn Thread Work The empty spaces produced in linen b}' grouping together with stitches several threads, isolated by the drawing out of warp or woof threads or both, constitutes what is known as " drawn thread work ". By grouping together and covering the isolated threads with different stitches the most varied combinations and the richest patterns can be produced, suitable either as sole decoration or as a finish to cross stitch or other embroidery. The simplest kind of drawn work is known as "hem-stitching" which consists in drawing out a few parallel threads of the material at the head of a hem and fastening up the upper and last cross-thread to the folded hem above it, so as to prevent its ravelling downwards ; thus leaving small open spaces between each of the clusters of threads. The borders, inser- tions and grounds, the Italian cut stitch, the different kinds of American, Danish and Norwegian openwork (•*) and, finally, the Reticella cut work of Italian and Greek origin, are all more complicated and elaborate forms of drawn or openwork ; the latter being a transition from openwork on linen to lace work. The patterns of modern work of this kind are very similar to certain lace patterns, they resemble the American ones and contain, like these, stitches and figures often employed in the Teneriffe lace. (*) See, at the end of this album, the Ust of the pubUcations of the D-M-C library, containing a great variety of patterns for every kind of work. 4 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES Viewed as regards the execution there are two kinds of openwork on linen : the one is produced by drawing out a certain number of either the warp or the woof threads, this is known as drawn work (the ItaHan punto tirato) ; the other requires the removal of both warp and woof threads and is known as cut work (the Italian punto tagliato). Materials. — Openwork on linen is done on woven stuffs, the warp and woof threads of which should as far as possible be of equal size so that the spaces left by the removal of the threads may be regular in form. For table, bed and toilet linen, all the different kinds of white, cream or ecru linens, used for embroidery, are suitable : for decorative articles, coloured linen known as English or Scotch linens are preferable. The different kinds of tammj'- cloth serve for chair-backs, curtains and blinds ; gauze and cambric, for dress trimmings. For the openwork, when the threads of the stuff have been removed, a strong, twisted thread should always be used, one or other of the following articles, bearing the D-M-C trade mark; D-M-C Alsatian thread (Fil d'Alsace) (*), D-M-C Alsatian twist (Retors d'Alsace), D-M-C Alsatian cordonnet (Cordonnet d'Alsace), D-M-C Cotton lace thread (Fil a dentelles), D-M-C Crochet cotton 6 cord (Cordonnet 6 fils), D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special), D-M-C Crochet cotton, bell mark (Cordonnet a la cloche), D-M-C Alsatia, D-M-C Knotting cotton (Fil a pointer), D-M-C Alsa, D-M-C Flax lace thread (Din pour dentelles) or D-M-C Flax thread for knitting and crochet (Din pour tricoter et crocheter). The working thread should, generally speaking, be of the same size as the threads of the stuff but for the raised parts which are to stand out in special relief a coarser thread should be used. For all the fillings and decorative figures in darning stitch, a loose pliable thread should be selected, such as D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special), com- posed of several strands, of which one or more can be used as required, or else D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle), D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread (Din floche) and D-M-C Rayon for embroider}^ (Raj'onne a broder) all with a slight twist. Openwork on linen is generally done in one colour only, white on white, or in the same shade as the stuff ; but we should recommend white thread for cream and ecru stuffs and a (*) The French names, in brackets, are those stamped on the labels of the DM-C articles. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Fig. 2. Another single hem-stitch. slightly tinted thread for the coloured lines. Openwork on linen in several colours is not often met with. To facilitate the reproduction of our patterns, directions as regards the course of the work and the materials to be used are given, either beneath the engravings in the text or, in the case of the plates, at the back of each plate. Insertions (punto tirato). Insertions are made, as we have already said, by drawing out either the horizontal or the ver- tical threads. The openwork hems form the starting point of this kind of work. These hems often take the place of the ordinary hem when a richer effect is desired. Wider insertions are used as a trimming for bed and table-linen instead of embroidery or lace insertion. Rows of hem-stitch wor- ked with the machine. — Rows of hem-stitch can be more quickly worked by machine than by hand. Narrow rows can be worked without being mounted on a frame. In this case it is ad- visable to stretch the shuttle thread very tightly. For the shuttle thread use D-M-C Machine thread (Fil pour machine) No. 150, for the top thread D-M-C Alsatian twist (Retors d'Alsace), D-M-C Alsatian cordonnet (Cordonnet d'Alsace) and D-M-C Alsa for the bands of hem-stitch. Single hem-stitch (figs, i and 2). — Draw out two threads beneath the foldover, then tack down the hem above the iso- lated threads. P'asten in the working thread on the left, then slip the needle from right to left under three isolated threads, draw it out and pass it, upwards from below, under two threads of the fold of the hem. (See fig. i.) For the hem fig. 2, prepare it like the preceding one, and Fig. 4. Serpentine hem-stitch. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Four-sided stitcli. Fig. 6. Crossed back-stitch Right side. work as before from left to right, except that after having slipped j^our needle under the two perpendicular threads j^ou insert it into the hem, downwards froni above, over one thread, so that it comes out exactly at the verj^ edge of the fold. These stitches, which ma^^ also be made on the wrong side of the work, form a kind of cord beneath the hem. Ladder hem-stitch (fig. 3). — After making the first row of stitches, as shewn in fig. I, draw out a few more threads, 5 in all. Then turn the work and make a second row of stitches like the first. You collect the same threads as in the first row thus forming vertical rungs or steps. Serpentine hem-stitch (fig. 4). — Here again the first row of stitches is made as in fig. i, bj' taking up each time an even number of threads. For the se- cond row take up half the threads of two clusters, so as to divide the rungs or steps which will thus form a serpentine line. How to secure the edges of the stuff in openwork. — After drawing out the threads for a hem or an insertion, you must secure the threads of the stuff on both sides of the openwork, so as to keep them in their place and prevent their slipping into the openwork part. This is an indispensable precaution in the case of wide hems or insertions ; for small articles of fancy-work it is not so necessary. The simplest way of securing the edges is shewn in figs, i and 3, it can also be done by straight and oblique stroke stitches, set singly or grouped together in the shape of scallops or squares (see plates I and IV). For the openwork parts, combined with embroidery in colours, use cross stitch and plaited stitch (see plates XIII and XIX). In work of a more minute description the edges are button-holed or overcast, as has been done in the patterns represented in Fig. 7. Crossed back-stiteh. Wrong side. Fig, S. Fancy stitch worked in one journey. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Fig. 9. Fancy stitch worked in two journeys. Fig. 10. \MioIe clusters interverted once. plates II, III, VIII, IX, XI, XII and XVIII, where the stitches are thickly padded, thus producing a raised effect. Figs. 5 to 9 also illustrate some stitches that may be used for this work. Four-sided stitch (fig. 5). — Draw out one thread of the stuff, skip three threads and draw out one. The stitches are made in a row from right to left. Begin with a vertical stitch upwards over the three isolated threads, then carry the needle on the wrong side of the work three threads downwards to the left, make one horizontal stitch to the right which will touch the verti- cal stitch at the top, and finally bring out the needle below to the left of the horizontal stitch. Then make a vertical stitch again and so on. Bj^ drawing the thread tight you get small square stit- ches accompanied above and below by little eyelet holes. In looselj' woven .stuffs it is not necessar}^ to draw out a thread top and bottom, the openwork effect results of itself by the threads being drawn closely together. Crossed back-stitch (figs. 6 and 7). Divided clusters interverted The right and the wrong side of this stitch both serve for securing the edges of the stuff. Leave a band of stuff, three threads deep, then draw out one thread above and below. For the execution described by the engraving, fig. 6, you insert the needle as for ordinary back-stitch, .slip it under the stuff, slanting it a little towards the second outline of the drawing, and bringing it out one thread beyond the Kg- i.^- Two whole clusters ^ ^ .... interverted once first stitch. After making one back-stitch ,vith two haif-ciusters. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES over two threads of the stuff, sHp the needle upwards again under the stuff and bring it out two threads further on for a new stitch. Fig. 13. Two whole clusters interverted once with four half-clusters. Fig. 14. Four clusters once interverted and once crossed. The intercrossing of the threads and the way this stitch is worked on the wrong side are shewn in fig. 7. Fig. 15- Four clusters ouce interv^erted and twice crossed. Fig. 16. Whole clusters once interverted and three times crossed. Fancy stitch worked in one journey (fig. 8). — Here again the band of stuff is three threads deep, but two threads of the stuff must be drawn out both above and below. Beginning below on the right, make two back-stitches from left to right over four disengaged threads, these are followed by two stitches over three horizontal threads and DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES two vertical ones, sloped to the right ; after which you make two horizontal back-stitches over four threads at the top to come back to the first line with two slanting stitches over Fig. 17. Two clusters once iuterverted in two rows. Fig. iS. Four clusters doubly iuterverted in two rows. three horizontal and two vertical stitches, sloped to the right. Continue in this manner drawing the stitches very tight and the open parts will come out very distinctly. Fancy stitch k^'"-"^' worked in two journeys (fig. 9) The stitchesare made over five horizontal threads, and one thread is drawn out top and bottom The first row consists of single stitches, see figs, i to 3, one of which is worked upwards and the other down wards (see also the explanatory on the left side of the engraving). In the second journey j^ou add a row of oblique stitches in the middle of the band, set between the stitches of the first row; in the engraving these stitches are shewn by a dark thread. Fie; 19 Three lowed mserti n with diMded clusters once inter\Lrted and little waved insertions between. detail Materials : Coarse linen with double threads, in ecru, and D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Corn yellow 712. 10 DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Different ways of openworking the bands of drawn stitch. — The openwork can be produced in various waj^s : 1° By drawing the li^teStii^ta^ffi^iiiffiliMiffl clusters of threads opposite waj's ; 2° Fig. 2o. Insertion with interverted clusters in two rows. llaterials : Coarse tammy cloth with double threads, in ecru, and D-M-C Special crochet cotton No. 3, in Snow-White. By knotting the clusters ; 3° Bj' embroidering over the clusters ; 4° By linking the clusters together with small decorative subjects. Different w^ays of drawing the clusters together interverted (figs. 10, II, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18). — You draw the clusters together opposite ways bj^ slipping a needle and coarse thread under one cluster which you then slip over one of the next clusters. To keep the clusters in their new position you pass the coarse thread between the clusters that are interverted. You can draw the clusters opposite ways in one journey or in several parallel lines, then you can take either whole clusters, or divided ones, or several clusters at once as will be seen from the following examples. We begin with the small strips made ill one journej'; fig. 10 shews us the plainest one, two whole clusters once interverted. For this you draw, as we have just said, the second cluster over the first and the coarse thread passes over the second Fig. 21, Insertion Mith interverted clusters crossed three times and embroidered over. ^Materials : Coarse Unen, in ecru, and D-M-C Flax thread for knitting and crochet Xo. R, in white. Fig. 22. Triple clusters knotted once with a vertical thread. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES II Fig. 23. Triple clusters knotted twice with two parallel vertical threads. cluster and under the first. For the stripe fig. 11 the clusters are divided before they are interverted ; this pattern presents a less open efiiect than the j preceding one. The engraving fig. 12 shews two whole clusters interverted with two half-clusters and fig. 13 a design consisting of two whole and four half clusters. The patterns of figs. 14 and 15 are formed of four clusters inter- verted at the same time. For fig. 14 you draw the third and fourth clus- ters over the first and the second, which gives a subject crossed once, whilst for fig. 15 you intervert the third and the fourth clusters and the fourth and the second ; in this way the clusters appear crossed twice. Finally fig. 16 shews how to execute in one journey a row crossed three times. To get this effect you intervert the fourth and first clusters, the sixth and the third, the eighth and the fifth and so on. Two more patterns are added in which the clusters are interverted in two parallel rows. Fig. 17 shews a double row of the motives of fig. 10, and fig. 18 a double row of the motives of fig. 15. The position of the needle shows the working of the second row. Three-rowed insertion ■with divided clusters once interverted and little waved insertions between (fig. 19). — The following patterns are to shew the uses to which the different crossed open- work stitches just described can be put. For the three-rowed insertion, fig. 19, repeat the stitch illustrated by fig. 3 six times ; the first and sixth time for beginning and finishing the insertion, the second and fifth time after having drawn Fig. 24. Quadruple clusters, divided, knotted twdce ^^'ith two vertical threads. Fig. 25. single clusters knotted once in a serpentine line without overcasting stitches. 12 DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Fig. 26. Double clusters knotted once in a serpentine line with overcasting stitches. Fig. 27. Quadruple clusters once knotted in a serpentine line with overcasting stitches. Fig. 28. Sextuple clusters twice knotted with a pattern consisting of button-holed squares. out six threads of the stuff, the third and the fourth time after drawing out eight threads. All the clusters must consist of four threads of the stuff. The first and the third rows must be worked after fig. 4, the middle row after fig. 11. Insertion with interverted clusters in two rows (fig. 20). — After drawing out twelve threads of the stuff and securing the edges with the stitch shewn in fig. 3 worked over three disengaged threads, you make two series of stitches interverting the whole clusters as shewn in fig. 17. Insertion with interverted clusters crossed three times and embroidered over (fig. 21). Draw out twenty-five threads of the stuff ; the isolated threads on both sides are then secured by oblique stroke stitches over six threads. The clusters are then crossed in the middle of their height by means of the stitch represented m fig. 16, after which you introduce another thread each side of the first, following the clusters proceeding from the first assemblage. After draw- ing the first threads through you surround the clusters with overcast stitches by means of a second thread, thus enclosing them between two threads. Different w^ays of knot- ting the clusters (figs. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31). The insertions with knotted DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES 13 Fig. 29. Single clusters knotted with the Turkish knot. clusters constitute a second variety of drawn thread work on linen. The knotted clusters can be made in one or more parallel rows, and the auxiliary thread that serves to make the knots, may be visible and form at the same time part of the pattern, or maj^ be used only for the knots and pass more or less invisibly from one cluster to another. For a single row you connect the clusters by a knot formed by an interverted chain stitch, in more elaborate patterns you can use both overcasting and button-hole stitch. We recommend all these kinds of openwork being done on the wrong side, in this way it will be found easier to carry the thread invisibly from one cluster to another and the chain stitch will also present a better appearance. We begin our series of patterns by those with knotted clusters worked in one row and in which the auxiliary thread is visible ; fig. 22 shows the making of a knot with an interverted chain stitch in an insertion formed by triple clusters, once knotted. The thread with which j'ou make the collect- ing knots descends vertically and links the clusters together. In fig. 23 the clusters appear much longer, they are knotted twice, which forms a pattern with horizontal bars in the middle of the insertion. For fig. 24 you draw four clusters together and these are afterwards divided in the second row so as to form in the middle a serpentine pattern. In the next figures the thread that served to make the knots is carried over the clusters without shewing in the empty spaces between. Fig. 30. Double clusters knotted with the Turkish knot. Fig. 31. Clusters knotted in serpentine line by horizontal stitches. 14 DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Fig. 32. Insertion formed of two rows of triple clusters once knotted. Materials : Coarse tamni}' cloth with double threads, in ecru, D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread No. 16, in Cream 579. The little insertion fig. 25 is a specimen of single openwork without the edges being overcast or secured in any way by stitches, as in small articles of fancy-work. The clusters of threads are knotted in a zig-zag line by means of single chain stitches and without overcasting stitches between these latter. Fig. 26 shews a si- milar pattern but with the edges secured against fraying and the clusters encircled in the middle by an overcasting stitch. For the insertion illustrated by fig. 27 you each time knot four clusters together ; the serpentine bars in the middle of the strip are lightly overcast. Fig. 28 shews an in- sertion consisting of a double row of sextuple clusters, the middle bars set in the shape of lo- zenges are encircled with fill button-hole stitches. The single Turkish I knot, fig. 29, is often used when the edges of a wide insertion are to be ornamented with a row of eyelet holes. After drawing out two or three threads of the stuff col- lect three or five together by means of the knot explained by the engraving, and the result will be a row of small round holes. Fig. 30 shews the use of the Turkish knot to collect two clusters in a wider insertion. In this way small isolated crosses are formed, the opposite to those in fig. 22, where the clusters are visibly connected by the thread that served to make the collecting knot. Fig. 33. Insertion of knotted clusters with vertical bars. Materials : Coarse tammy cloth, in cream, D-M-C Crochet cotton, special quality, No. 5. in Cream 579. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Finall}', in fig. 31, we give a narrow serpentine insertion where the pattern is formed solely by horizontal overcasting stitches ; this work is not very strong and we cannot recommend its use save in certain fancy articles not exposed to much wear. The ensuing pattern of insertions will shew the use of the stitches we have been described. Insertion formed of twro rows of triple clusters once knotted (fig. 32). — Draw out twice twelve threads of the stuff with an interval of four threads, and secure the edges from frajdng by stitches over 2 threads, as in fig. 3. After fastening in the thread, knot three clusters together by means of three interverted chain stitches, see also fig. 22. The thread that crosses the middle of the empty spaces between must always be given a little play. Insertion of knotted clusters writh vertical bars (fig. 33). — The stitches to secure the edges are to be worked over four threads, you then draw out twenty threads between the edges. The pattern itself is worked after fig. 23, only instead of knotting the clusters together with only one chain stitch you do it with three. Turkish insertion with two rows of isolated clusters (fig. 34). — After securing the edges by stitches set over three horizontal and four vertical threads, draw out for each band sixteen threads of the stuff. The crossed figures of the second band are interverted as regards those of the first band. Fig. 30 shows the working of the stitch. Fig. 34. Turkis _ with two rows of isolated clusters. Materials : Ivinen of medium coarseness, in white, D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Golden yellow 782. FiK 3 ^ Fig 36 Lorded isolated Corded bars m bars. zig-zag line. i6 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES ^31 i^gt TlStJkJ.^::^ =Na=^^^^H i - K H K ►— -^V— s-^^^E^fc .CL IMp-^^f^ Fig. 37. Bars covered with darnine stitches. Different ways of embroidering the clusters (figs. 35, 36, 37, 38). — The third class of drawn work comprises the insertions with embroidered clusters ; this work requires more trouble and patience than the preceding kind, for the clusters of threads entirely disappear under the embroidery that forms the pattern. The stitch most frequently used for this embroidery is darning stitch, together sometimes with overcasting and button- hole stitches. Fig. 35 explains the making of the little corded bars used either for orna- menting a narrow hem or for making latticed grounds in works of a larger size. (See also the grounds figs. 72 to 78, and the borders figs. 97 to 99.) — As seen in fig- 35. tfie thread is carried downwards from above in the middle of the cluster to be corded; be- ginning at the bottom, you completely surround the cluster, consisting in this instance of four threads of the stuff, with overcasting stitches. Fig. 36 shews the corded bars placed in a zig-zag line. Here the bars are worked alternately up- wards and downwards, and over clusters of three threads onh^ At the junction of two bars you connect them by two overcasting stitches over the six threads they are composed of ; in this way you have an insertion of serpentine bars. The bars covered with darning stitches, fig. 37, always require clusters made of an even nuinber of threads. The bars are made from right to left, to and fro, the needle being always inserted in the middle of the threads of the cluster. Insert the needle, eye foremost, the point turned against the thimble, this facilitates the work and prevents you from splitting the threads of the clusters. When the bar is finished, turn the work round, so as always to work in the same Fig. 38. Pyramids covered with daruing stitches. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES 17 direction, that is to say, having the finished part on the right of your needle. To shew how larger figures are worked in darning stitch, we give in fig. 38 an insertion composed of pyramids in course of execution and shewing the work in progress. The needle travels to and fro over a settled number of clusters till all the threads of the stuff are entirely covered. Insertion in darning stitch. — The following patterns repre- sent insertions of Slav or Hungarian origin ; they are executed in darning stitch. These insertions are employed as borders for trimming house-linen and wearing apparel they are mostly executed in white on ecru linen more rarelj' in colourb In the latter case, verj bright decided colourb are preferable : red, blue, green and orange, some parts are even embroide- red in black. In addition 'i^SirMSSfMSS^^'i^MmiMvfi^^^ Fig. 40. Insertion with three rows of bars in darning stitch in three colours. Materials : Coarse tammy cloth with double threads, in white, D'M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Scarlet 304, Pistachio green 319 and Mandarin j^ellow 741. Fig. 39. Insertion with two rows of bars in darning stitch in one colour. Materials • Coarse linen in cream D M C Crochet c ittou bell mark No =; m ecru to these patterns we give a series of Persian subjects copied from the ancient veils, which are famous for their great beauty. In these kinds of drawn work it often happens that the embroidery stitches that cover the clusters fill up the whole width of the insertion, it will therefore in these cases be unnecessary to secure the threads of the edges by over- casting stitches. Insertion ■with tivo ro'ws of bars in darning stitch in one colour (fig. 39). — Draw out 14 threads. Pass the working thread so that it may disappear under the darning stitches made to and fro over ten threads, in sufficient number to cover the isolated threads to half their height. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Fig. 41. Insertion with three ro\^"S of bars of different lengths in darning stitch. Materials : Coarse linen with double threads, in w-hite, D-]M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread No. 8, in Golden bronze 5S8. To reach the second cluster, reinsert the needle under the last darning stitches, carry the thread under the isolated threads and begin the second cluster by dividing the threads as the figure indicates. Fig. 37 also explains the execution of the ^^!^4:i^^^L^u^L^u^L-^ bars in darning stitch. Insertion with three rows of bars in darning stitch in three colours (fig. 40). — After drawing out 18 threads of the stuff, collect the ver- tical threads and work the darning stitches over the ten threads as in tig. 39, but in three colours instead of one, using al- ways the same colour for .tp three clusters in a dia- i^ gonal line. Insertion Avith three rows of bars of diffe- rent lengths in darning stitch (fig. 41). — vSecure the edges with stroke stitches set slanting over four threads of the stuft", then draw twenty hori- .,v,x^ zontal threads for the '^" openwork. The bars of the Fig. 42. Insertion in darning stitch. . -u ■ v Diagonalrowsof bars of two sizes form the pattern. ^WO exterior roWS, whlch Materials : Linen of medium coarseness, in white, are longer than thoSC of DM-C Flax lace thread No. i6, in white. ,1 -j n j 1 the middle row, take a few more stitches to cover them than the middle ones which are nearly square. Insertion in darning stitch. Diagonal rows of bars of two sizes form the pattern (fig. 42). — The edges are se- cured by oblique stitches over four threads of the stuff and 28 threads are then removed for the openwork. The pattern is composed of two diagonal rows of five bars covered with darning stitches worked over two clusters of threads, which DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES 19 alternate with one diagonal row of five squares worked over 3 clusters of threads. Insertion in darning stitch writh pattern of pyramids (fig 43) — Heie too the edges are first secured bv oblique Fis: 43 liisLition m daminc; ^titeh \mUi p^ ItLiii oi juiiuud^ Materials Coaise linen, m white, D M C Floss flax or flounshm^ thread No 8, in Golden bronze 588 or D-M-C Special stranded cotton, in Hazel-nut brown 423. Li^\\i'Xj-^\ t5i?S \a U5ta ^liaSta^iiJi^ tirilid"3iai:iT5id& Fig. 44. Insertion in darning stitch in three colours. Materials : Einen of medium coarseness, in white, D-M-C Floss flax or flourishing thread No. 8, in Indigo 311, Geranium red 349 and Saffron 725. stitches over four threads ; the oi^enwork requires the removal of thirty threads of the stufl". The pyramids are worked over twelve clusters of threads, the little squares placed in diagonal lines over two. 20 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES Insertion in darning stitch in three colours (fig. 44). — • The pattern requires the removal of thirty threads and the edges are secured by oblique stitches over three threads of the stuff. One subject of this insertion takes twenty clusters; you begin by the wide parts forming the pyramids, iHiim4|a^^u^]lKgilg.M^^ ^J^i^^ ^ ^'^'^ . covered 5|!^iy;t_,;Ti^.^.^i-5-yn^^ with darning stit- ches in dark blue over three clusters. The inside bars of the pyramids are worked in red, the bars between them in yellow, the latter taking two clusters of threads. Insertion in darning stitch with lozenge pat- tern (fig. 45). — ^^ tj i^iH, For this figure draw out 32 threads and Fig. 45. Insertion in darning stitch with lozenge pattern. Materials : Coarse linen with donble threads, in cream, D-M-C Pearl cotton No. 5, in Royal blue 797, ("cranium red 340 and T^n-^crine yellow "4'' w w %p w "^w '^^''1^ ^Tr n'' ^'f-r .-.=^ „'■*'- **v - w to form the corner of the insertion fig. 50. Fig. 59. How to form the corner of the insertion fig. 32. finish it. As the engraving shews the pattern may also be worked in two colours. Arrangement of the insertions at the corners (figs. 54, 55. 56)- — When insertions form the borders to a square piece of work, you begin by cutting the threads to within a | inch of the edge of the hem or of the insertion itself, then you iso- late them as fig. 54 shews. You introduce the isolated threads into the foldover of the hem and fix them there with button- hole stitches, fig. 55, or else if the hem stitching is not to be interrupted, you turn the threads down at the back and sew them down there with a few stitches, fig. 56. Formation of the corners of insertions of one row^ (fig. 57). — By drawing out both the warp and the woof threads you get an empty square at the corner which is then filled by a small decorative figure. As an example we give, in fig. 57, the small insertion with interverted clusters, fig. 10, the empty 26 DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES ^^^»^ ,11'^^=^" IV" mi I Fl-, 6o Cutting out the threads inside the square of stiiff. square at the corner of which is ornamented by a wheel with eight spokes, j^ou carry the thread of the first insertion to the opposite edge, insert it into the hem, then carry it back to the centre of the wheel that is to be made ; trace the five other spokes, make the wheel on seven threads, fasten the thread on the opposite side of the second insertion, pass it under the wheel and make the eighth spoke by taking the thread across to the second insertion. Forming the corners of insertions consisting of several rows (figs. 58 and 59). — In the case of insertions consisting of several rows, you can make the corners in two different ways ; either you cut the threads right up to each strip of stuff, or you draw out all the threads up to the hem. We give examples of both ways. Fig. 58 shews the corner of inser- tion fig. 50 for which the threads have been cut up to each strip of stuff. The small corners are filled with a small wheel of four spokes, the big one with a wheel of twelve spokes richly orna- mented, see also fig. 84. The corner fig. 59 of the insertion fig. 32 is more troublesome to make. For it, all the threads near the hem have been cut ; the disengaged threads from the middle strips of stuff are Fig. 61. Drawing transformed into bars in darning stitch, out the threads throughout the and the four empty corners are filled whole surface of the stuff. .,, , , r ■ t j_ i With wheels of eight spokes. Cut stitch (Punto tagliato). — For cut stitch embroidery you draw out both the warp and the woof threads. The number of threads to be drawn out depends not only on the pattern chosen, but also on the stuft' on which the embroidery is to be done. The threads remaining between the empty spaces then serve as canvas for the different kinds of stuff. You must be careful only to choose stuffs with the warp and woof threads of equal size, so that the spaces left by the removal of the DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES 27 threads may be exactly square ; otherwise the appearance of the work, when finished, will suffer considerably. Cut stitch done -with the machine. — As in the case of the patterns done in drawn stitch those in cut stitch can also be done with the machine. For their execution see directions given on page 5. Cutting out the threads inside the square of stuff (fig. 60). — Often embroideries in cut stitch are framed in other kinds of embroidery. In such cases, you cut the threads to about one inch within the work, and only then isolate them so as to preserve the inside edges of the stuff intact. You must draw out an equal number of threads both ways. For most Fig b- Fc^tconcd ed^L liir cut stitch cnibr( ndcr\ Corded edge for ciit-stitch embroidery. patterns you have to leave as many threads as you remove. Fig. 60 shews four threads removed and four left. Drawing out the threads throughout the w^hole surface of the stuff (fig. 61.) — In fig. 61, where the threads are drawn out to the edge, you will observe four threads drawn out for every three left. This difference is admissible when you want to make the work more transparent than it would be by removing and covering the same number of threads. Festooned edge for cut-stitch embroidery (fig. 62). — To prevent the cut edges of stuffs from unravelling they should be festooned or button-holed, as shewn in the engraving fig. 62. Corded edge for cut-stitch embroidery (fig. 63). — A small cord or overcasting is almost better than festooning for strengthening the edges in the more elaborate patterns. You calculate, before cutting into the stuff, how many threads you 28 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES Fig. 64. First openwork ground. ^^^ith horizontal and vertical bars. have to remove, then trace out your pattern with tacking stitches ; this done you cut to within two threads of the tracing stitches, the stuff to be removed, and immediately overcast the cut edge with stitches made over one or two padding threads, which gives a slight relief to the edges. Grounds. — The sixteen subjects we are now going to describe, designated "grounds", are chiefly used to ornament the openwork parts in pieces of work of a certain importance as regards size, see plate XVI ; they can always be used as insertions or scalloped borders, as has been done for the patterns illustrated by our plates XI and XII. The easiest subjects are those in which the clusters are only partly embroidered over or merely knotted like those of our first figures. They are followed by patterns in which the ground consists of corded bars or bars worked in darning stitch, copied from old pieces of needlework of Italian or Persian origin. These are rather long and difficult to do but workers will be rewarded for their trouble by the solidity and beauty of the result. First openvrork ground. With horizontal and vertical bars (fig. 64). — Cut three horizontal and three vertical threads, leaving an interval of three threads between. By drawing out the cut threads you get an open ground resembling net. The isolated threads are overcast in diagonal rows so as to make round bars. The intersections of the threads are covered by an oblique stitch ; the bars, according to their Fig. 65. Second openwork ground. with clusters connected together : diagonal rows. DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES 29 Fig. 66. Third openworis: ground. With interverted loop stitches. direction, by two vertical or two horizontal stitches, as the engraving shews. Second openwork ground. With clusters connected together in diagonal rows (fig. 65.) — In height and breadth: cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. Here likewise the ground is worked in diagonal rows ; the pattern is formed by con- necting the clusters together by a single knot in a coarse thread. The engraving ex- plains how the knot is made. Third openwork ground. With interverted loop stitches (fig. 66). — In height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an in- terval of four threads. Here the pattern is produced b}^ isolated loop stitches placed in every alternate emptj^ space and which embrace each way the four disen- gaged threads of the net. As seen in the engraving, these stitches are worked in diagonal rows, and the thread in its passage from stitch to stitch is hidden under the little square of stuff. Fourth openwork ground. With loop stitches set in lines (fig. 67). — In height and breadth : cut six threads leaving an interval of six threads. This ground is more covered than the foregoing one, each empty space is filled by a loop stitch interlaced over only three disengaged threads of the net and worked in vertical rows. By the clusters being divided in this manner, you get oval eyelet holes between the squares of stuff. Fig. 67. Fourtli openwork ground. With loop stitches set in lines. 30 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES Fig. 68. Fifth openworlj ground. With diagonal net. Fifth openwork grovmd. With diagonal net (fig. 68). — In height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. Begin by making the diagonal net, for which you lay a thread covered afterwards by overcasting stitches set very wide apart. In the engraving, all the threads running from right to left are laid and overcast, likewise some of the threads from left to right crossing the first ones ; it shews too how to lay the thread and overcast it. When the net is quite finished, 5'ou frame each square of stuff — which seems covered with a thread stretched across diagonally — with square stitches to be worked in horizontal rows. Sixth openwork ground. With knotted clusters and filling of single spiders (fig. 6g). — In height and breadth : cut nine threads leaving an interval of nine threads. With the disengaged threads form clusters con- nected once horizontally or vertically by means of a knot described for the ground fig. 65, or by an interverted chain stitch. When all the clusters are knotted, stretch across the diagonal threads that com- plete the spiders. Here the thread passes — always diagonally — over the ist, 2nd and 3rd, under the 4th, 5th and 6th, and over the 7th, 8th and 9th of the nine threads of the squares of stuff, which gives greater firmness to this openwork. You begin by stretching the threads across from left to Fig. 69. Sixtli opcnworl: ground. With knotted clusters and filling of single spiders. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES 31 70. Seventh openwork ground. With interverted clusters right, and this layer iinished you stretch the threads across in the opposite direction, taking care to connect them in the middle by a knot and thus putting a small spider with six legs in each empty space. Seventh openwork ground. With interverted clusters and filling of single spiders and wheels in darning stitch (fig. 70). In height and breadth : cut twelve threads leaving an in- terval of twelve threads. The disengaged threads, divided into three equal clusters, are to be divided and interverted in horizontal and vertical rows. When all the clusters are interverted, you begin by stretching the ^nd eUmg of smgle spiders and wheels J • 1 . 1 T in daruine stitch. diagonal threads across, passing them over the ist to the 4th, under the 5th to the 8th and over the 9th to the I2th of the threads of the squares of stuff. Where the threads cross each other you connect them b}? a single knot, thus forming spiders. Finally? the squares of stuff are orna- mented with a little wheel in darning stitch, for which you pass the thread four times under the diagonal threads. Eighth openwork ground. With knotted clusters, spiders in loop stitch and lozenges in flat stitch (fig. 71). — In height and breadth: cut twelve threads leaving an interval of twelve threads. The disengaged threads are to be divided into two equal groups and knotted in the middle by a single knot in a horizontal Fig. 71. Eighth openw-ork ground. With knotted clusters, spiders in loop stitch and lozenges in flat stitch. 32 DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIES Fig. 72. Ninth ground. Willi corded bars and little overcast direction. The empty spaces are filled by a loop stitch placed in the corners of the squares of stuff and connected each time with the stretched threads by a single knot. I^astl^^ you ornament the squares of stuff by a lozenge formed of stroke stitches, alternately vertical and horizontal. Ninth ground. With corded bars and little overcast crosses (fig. 72). In height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an in- terval of four threads. Begin by the vertical rows of corded bars, executed according to the indications given for fig. 35 ; on reaching the middle of everj'' second bar lay a horizontal thread to form the overcast bars for the little crosses. In making the rows of horizontal bars, lay the vertical threads which are to intersect the horizontal bars so as to form little crosses (note the position of the needle in the engraving). Tenth ground. With corded bars and squares of little overcast crosses (fig. 73). — In height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. In this pattern four empty spaces alternate regularly with four which are ornamented with little overcast squares. This ground is worked like the preceding one : 3'ou begin by making the rows of vertical bars with the overcast horizontal ones, then in cording the horizontal bars you complete the little crosses by the vertical bars. 1 M ™Ls 1 e IMS sit^ 1 Ifc^3 ud M i^ iiwt* 111 ' IS ^ ^ r^-~— saj^-' ---4 sS^^^^^^^^~j L t i ^ ^^^^ Fig. 73. Tenth ground. With corded bars and squares of little overcast crosses. DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES 33 Fig. 74. Eleventh ground. With corded bars and interverted loop stitches. Eleventh ground. With corded bars and interverted loop stitches (fig. 74). — In height and breadth: cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. This pattern which is very like fig. 66, is also ornamented with loop stitches. You begin by finishing all the vertical rows of corded bars, then whilst working the horizontal rows, you add a loop stitch in every second emptj^ space, beginning it alwaj^s in the middle of a bar. Twelfth ground. With corded bars and diagonal crosses of overcast bars (fig. 75). — In height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. Our engraving iig. 75 represents a ground of corded bars with diagonal crosses of overcast bars which recalls the pattern of fig. 68. You first complete the corded ground, then indepen- dently of it you add the over- cast crosses. For these crosses 3^ou begin by making all the diagonal bars in every second empty space, that slant from right to left, then you com- plete the crosses by adding the rows of bars that slant from left to right (note also the position of the needle in the engraving). Thirteenth ground. With corded bars and overcast diagonal bars (fig. 76). — In height and breadth: cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. This ground looks rather more transparent than the preceding one, for the empty spaces are only ornamented with overcast Fig. 75. Twelfth ground. \^'ith corded bars and diagonal crosses of overcast bars. 34 DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st SERIES Fig. 76. Thirteenth ground. With corded bars and overcast diagonal bars. bars. The corded ground is here worked in diagonal rows, see tig. 64, then, starting from the middle of the little squares of stuff, you make the overcast bars at the same time. Fourteenth ground. With corded bars and oblique crosses formed of bars in darning stitch (fig. 77). — In height and breadth : cut four threads leaving an interval of four threads. This ground consists again of four empty squares alter- nating with four squares filled with a cross of bars in darn- ing stitch. Having finished the ground of corded bars, you make diagonal rows, to and fro, of bars in darning stitch over the whole surface. For each bar you lay two threads ; the darning stitches are made as indicated for fig. ■^'] . Fifteenth ground. With double corded bars and spiders in single darning stitch (fig. 78). — In height and breadth : cut six threads leaving an interval of six threads. For this pattern you begin by completing all the double rows of corded vertical bars ; in course of doing which you make two horizontal stitches over three threads in the middle of the little squares of stuft' that form themselves at the intersection of the bars. As you make the horizontal bars you set the two vertical stitches and at the same time the spiders in single darning stitch. ^^ ^ ^fU#44^ iiU: Jj- J m g i ^3/ 1 1 up S E plf A . L 1^ ft '^j I i 1 IIMH y Fig. 77. Fourteenth ground. \^^itli corded bars and oblique crosses formed of bars in darning stitgh. DRAWN THREAD WORK - 1st SERIKS 35 Sixteenth ground. With bars in interverted darning stitch and spiders in single darning stitch (fig. 79). — In height and breadth : cut six threads, leaving an interval of ^ ^^^^^ m 1 i(^^ ^B ^^^ ^ ^c^ii'^iii^^^^ K aV^^ilV->'^ \^m ^^^ Mm ^^^^^^m m awi' i 1 ^^ ^^^^^^s 1 LwHH Fiu;. 78. Fifteenth ground. With double corded bars and spiders in single darning stitch. six threads. The ground of bars in interverted darning stitch is made in diagonal rows ; you make alternately one liorizontal and one vertical bar, see fig. 37. ^ i^ pw^^^ mm '^^^^^ P ^CrTTTm?^ i/sM/'^^^m lj^'jLlUjf^^lj^fflV^if;lJ,iJau ' ^^^mIWB MWfflSpffi ^ffl k ^^^S ^ i m 1^^ ' k| jjaj^ Fit; 7-v5«(,-:;~>5^ inr5::a:::;-.Tr For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOEEFUS-MIEG & C'^ vSociete anonyme MULIIOUSE-BELFOKT-PARIS Directions for working the pattern on Plate III: Border with knotted fringe for chamber-towels, dresser-cloths and sideboard covers, worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-!!M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Nos. 3 and 20. (See explanatory details, figs. 25, 50 and 84.) Embroider the straight lines over 3 threads of the stuff with D-]M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20. Draw out 8 threads for the narrow insertions, the clusters of which number 6 threads, and 24 threads for the wide in- sertion in which the clusters are formed of 3 threads of the stuff. The two rows of dots embroidered with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3 take 12 horizontal threads, the border turned to the fringe also takes 12 threads. The needlework is done with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20. All rights reserved Plate in DRAWN THRPZAD WORK 1st .Series For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOLLFUS-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme MULHOUSE-EELFORT-PARIS Directions for working the pattern on Plate IV: Part of a sofa- veil, worked on coarse tammy cloth with double threads with D-M-C v'^pecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Nos. i, 2 and 10. (See explanatory details, tigs. 5, 30, ^J and 71.) Embroider the rows of four-sided stitches over 3 threads of the stuff with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. 10. Draw out twice 7 threads for the little crossed insertions, and leave 5 threads between for the strip of tammy cloth to be covered with vertical stitches made with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. i. Embroider the triangular frame with D-AI-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 2. Draw out 14 threads for the empty squares and leave 6 threads for the intermediate bars. Do the needlework with D-il-C .Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 10. All rii-hts l■ese^^■ed PUac IV DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series l-l^i^^^^^^i^*' 11 < .! » » . » ' « ,! r • t , y mMm ►i^,V»«>--v<^^:;'^;^.'',;'-'-''''^'' ''"''■' For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOLLFUv^-MIEG & C'^, .Societe anonyme MULHOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS Directions for working the pattern on Plate V: Border with corner, for table-napkins and tray-cloth, worked on coarse tammy cloth with double threads with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Nos. 2, 10 and 20. (See explanatory details, figs. 8, '^'j , 90 and 91.) Embroider the scalloped outside edge in darning stitch with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 2 over 7 threads of the stuff. Draw out twice 16 horizontal threads leaving 6 threads of the stuff between. Draw out 16 vertical threads leaving alternately 6 and 12 threads between. Do the needlework with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. 10 and the connecting outlines in Russian stitch with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. 20. In the inside, leave an interval of 10 threads, draw out twice 2 threads leaving 3 threads between. Make the openwork seam over clusters of 4 threads. All rights reserved Plate V DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st Series mi '-w; -»--T?t; : : ; : : :::;::;••■-::•:;::::•■; ^'SftW'^t ■ ,,. ,• ; . ,. ,■ .•; (; ;; ).. 1. ) >, ■:.:( f//->'}y''*''-Jq:-''m\'\>'" ;■•' ■■■■',> ','*(•' '■'.''■/.■.■I 9' For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DODDFUvS-MIEG & O^ , Societe anonyme .MULHOUSE-BELPORT-P.iRIS Directions for working the patterns on Plate VI: Four rivieres for toilette articles, worked on coarse linen with double threads with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Xo. 3 and D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonuet special) Nos. 2 and 3. (See explanatory details, tigs. 5, 6, 7, 10, 22, 27, 31, 37 and 38.) First riviere — Draw out 8 threads in the middle, lea\-e 2 threads top and bottom for the two rows of crossed stitches and draw out i thread. Second riviere — Draw out 14 threads in the middle, leave 3 threads top and bottom for the rows of four-sided stitches worked over 3 threads in height and 2 threads in width and draw out I thread. Third riviere — L~)raw out 10 threads in the middle, leave 2 threads top and bottom for the two rows of four-sided stitches and draw oiit i thread. I'ourth riviere — Draw out 18 threads in the middle, leaA'e 3 threads on each side, then draw out 3 threads at the top and bottom, lea\-e 3 more threads and draw out i thread. The crossed stitches are done over 2 threads in width and 3 threads in height. Use the D-;\I-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3 for the lace stitches, the D-]\I-C vSpecial crochet cotton No. 2 for the \^aA-ed line in the third riviere and the D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3 for the darned motifs in the fourth ri\-iere. All riss'hts reserved I'latc VI DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series BJM>»-* »■ »- «' » » »-«^».*-HM7*-»-*r*-*:*"*-*-*-*-* t^.^-*^ »<^''*'-*-*-'k'«-Ji'-»Hk*-«r^ • » •» »•• 1 •«• e •••»•• »i »:••»»*»» • »» » »••••••»«•••»•• » » » I ^'■iri-»^**-t,4.-*** a.'«-«^»-*-*-** •^»'ih-|h|ri--t-*-«r»4. A-lKIMHt-ft-^-i-ft a.-*"«,»-»4"»-(M ii.'V.' «:*■-«:» ••*.«.«.• *-• v.o « • V « V •'« « » 9 ■:«-•,•'« v.* «.« 4 9 f;* » « 9 v,«-v^ « v IT t.-»HM. • *» * «-»#»"»*^ »«-»»**> «.«.♦» ». «-^ •'••.^i-*^** «»• »***«' <»l (T;--; tt^tt^'^ t.-^^ A-t^. S—t ^.^ »■ -J-*.*--*-^-* >-*--*..*-*-* .4-4..*-+ -V*-* *- 4- »-»^»^-fc.t,^*-t-4. *-*-»-* For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DODU'UvS-MIEG & C'<", Societe anoiiyme mUUKII'Sr.-BELFDRT-PARIS Directions for working the patterns on Plate VII: Two borders for curtains and sash-blinds, worked on coarse tammy cloth with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Nos. 3 and 20 and D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3. (See explanatory details, figs. 22, '^'] and 38.) First border — Draw out 24 threads for the wide riviere, leave 10 threads, then draw out 12 threads top and bottom. The clusters number 3 threads and are held together with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20. Work aU the other stitches with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3. Second border — Draw out 15 threads for the wide riviere, leave 7 threads top and bottom, draw out 8 threads, leave 7 threads and draw out 9 more threads. The clusters consist of 3 threads and are fastened with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 20. Work the wheels with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cor- donnet special) No. 3, all the other stitches with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3. All rights reserved rune VII DRAWN THREAD WORK — ist Series For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOU.FUS-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme MULHUUSF.-BI'lLFORT -PARIS Directions for working the patterns on Plate VIII: Three borders for table- and house-linen, worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-]M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. 3 and D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Xo. 3. (See explanatory details, figs. 5, 22, 23, 37, 38, 63, 81, iiZ, 84 and 85.) First border — \\'ork the rows of vertical and four-sided stitches o\-er 3 horizontal threads. Draw out 35 horizontal threads, then in the direction of the length leave alternately 28 threads and cut 8 threads. Second border — Work the rows of vertical stitches over 4 horizontal threads, the rows of four-sided ones o^•er 3 hori- zontal and 4 vertical threads. Draw out 45 horizontal threads, then in the direction of the length, lea\-e alternately ^2 threads and cut 20. Third border — "Work the rows of \-ertical stitches over 4 horizontal threads, the rows of four-sided ones over 3 hori- zontal and 4 \-ertical threads. Draw out 60 horizontal threads, and then in the direction of the length, leave alternately 40 threads and cut 25. Do all the work ^^■ith D-^M-C Special crochet cotton (Cor- donnet special) X^'o. 3, excepting the thick parts in darning stitch which are done with D-]\rC Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Xo. 3. All rights reserved Plate VIII DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DODDI'UvS-MIEG & C^^, Societe anonjaiie IMULIIUUSE-BELFORT- PARIS Directions for working the patterns on Plate IX: Two grounds for cushions, pincushions, chair-backs and table-centres, worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8 and D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. lo. (vSee explanatorj' details, figs. 38, 63, 83, 84 and 85.) First ground — Do the framing of the figures with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8 over 3 threads of the stuff and draw out 20 threads both ways inside the squares, leaving an interval of 8 threads between the figures. Work the orna- mental figures with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 10. Second ground — Do the framing of the figures with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8 over 3 threads of the stuft". For the big empty space in the middle, draw out 12 threads both ways, leave 3 threads between and draw out 5 threads. Do the ornamental figures with D-^M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 10. AH rights reserved Plate IX DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st Series f-^^^A ■^2S?^.- "^^^srEir- i?5*nF jEias-' .c"K-::' miy-cu- iS;^-3£- iiasii m r-sffl^ ?-i^kS^:vi "ts,m^^ •^«#W»^'^ >'*"'~-"'""'''ii± « -SIa ^^ l'"or working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOLIJ<'UvS-MlEG & C'^ vSociete anonyme MTTLirOITSE-BELFftRT- PARIS Directions for working the pattern on Plate X: Ground for cushions and chair-backs, worked on coarse linen with double threads with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3. (See explanatory details, figs. 3, 6, 23, 37 and 38.) !Leave 12 threads for the big squares of linen, draw out 3 threads for the narrow insertions, leave 3 for the strips of stuff and draw out g for the wide insertions. The clusters consist of 2 threads of the stuff. Do all the embroidery with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3. All rights ruscrvud Plate X DRAWN THREAD WORK — ist Series vtl •■^4E."Cfc<.r.'^A*-.' Mmmm ^p.i-iniinin5inminTi^ 1 itr, ^•ffl^a^g^'^ sb** ; s*i^^4 For working, t:se the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DODDFU.S-MIEG & C'^, Societe anonyme MTJLHOUSK-BKLrORT-PARIS Directions for working the patterns on Plate XVII: Two borders for trimming articles of dress, worked on fine tammy cloth with D-^I-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Nos. 5 and 8. (See explanatory details, figs. 8, 9, 22, 38, 50, 81, 82 and 84.) Narrow border — Work the two rows of finishing-off stitches over 6 horizontal threads and 4 vertical ones with D-]M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5. Draw out 40 threads for the openworked insertion ; the needlework is done with D-il-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8, excepting the little horizontal bars in darning stitch, which are worked with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5. AMde border — Do the two rows of finishing-off stitches and the supplementary row of the hem of 6 horizontal and 4 vertical threads, with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5. Draw out 75 threads for the wide insertion and 8 for the narrow ones, the intermediate strips of stuff number 12 threads, the needlework is done with D-i\I-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 8. All rights reserved Plate XVII <4««<549«f««l«1l«lf«««4€€^ W4 .« I&i! £ ■•k'^ A^'A' ^< AS A -A- A?-&i a!' A« A ^ ^- ^ lA'-A'^ '^ "■^ For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOIJJ'US-MIEG & C'f, v'^ociete anonyme MULIIOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS Directions for working the patterns on Plate XVIII: Border and square for table-linen, worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-M-C v'^pecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3 and D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5. (See explanatory details, tigs. 22, 3S and 63.) Border — Do the framing of the sc[uares over 4 threads of the stuff and lea\-e 56 vertical threads between the figures. In the inside, draw out each way three times S threads and lea\-e twice 8 threads. Beave 12 threads of the stuff abo\-e and below, draw out 3 threads for the narrow insertions, the clusters of which consist of 4 threads. vScjuare figures — A^'ork the framing of the squares over 3 threads of the stuff with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 5 ; leave an interval of 8 threads between the squares. Do the work with D-^BC Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 3, excepting the parts in darning stitch which are to be done in D-;\BC Bearl cotton (Coton joerle) No. 5. All riyhts rL'Scrvcd Platr xviir DRAWN THREAD WORK 1st vSenes LW^-'f m iiipiipippiisiii: «*yi-«li:il!i!iili 1^^ •1, '-■■■ : 'J. a/:- ^wm^i^ f.^- 6 ';;;-:-?!*lB0r ■ S W««T.;;t;.;;;|7 - \M."f}^'^-y} For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DODLFUS-MIEG c& C'^, Societe anonyme mulhousi:-bi:lfort-paris Directions for working the pattern on Plate XIX: Big ground for carpet, bed- and cradle-spreads, &c., worked on coarse linen with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. i and D-J\rC Pearl cotton (Coton perle) Nos. i and 3 and D-M-C vSpecial stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25. (See explanatory details, figs. 87, 88 and 89.) Draw out 14 threads for the large openwork parts and leave 28 threads for the linen squares, the edges of which are finished off with D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25, with stitches over 2 quadruple threads. Work the edge of the little squares, for which you cut 6 threads inside both ways, in plaited stitch with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. 3, over a quadruple thread. Do the leaves in darning stitch with D-M-C Pearl cotton (Coton perle) No. I, the spiders in the middle of the figures and the isolated loop stitches with D-M-C vSpecial crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. i, and the intermediate figures with 10 strands of D-M-C Special stranded cotton (Mouline special) No. 25 in the same shade as the stuff. AIJ rights reserved Plate XIX DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DODDFUS-MIEG & O^, .Societe anonyme MULHOUSE-BELPORT-PARIS Directions for working the pattern on Plate XX: Triple border for table and bed-linen, worked on linen of medium coarseness with D-]\I-C .Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) Xo. 40. (See explanatory details, figs. 35 and 38.) Draw out 50 threads of the stuff for the wide insertion and 2^ for the two narrow insertions lea\-ing five times 13 stitches between each. Finish off the edges with button-hole stitches connecting clusters of 3 threads each. Do the whole of the work with D-M-C Special crochet cotton (Cordonnet special) No. 40. All rights restrved Plate XX DRAWN THREAD WORK — 1st Series For working, use the D-M-C Cotton and Flax threads DOIJJ'US-MIKG & Cie, Societe anonyme MULIIOUSE-BELFORT-PARIS D'M-C LIBRARY In the endeavour to develop the taste for fancy needlework and to make better known the use of the numerous articles made especially for sewing, embroidery, crochet work, knitting, &c., by the Societe anonyme Doi.i,Fus-MiEG & Ci", the Company has published a series of works, which together form a complete library of information dealing with every known kind of needlework. Although these publications surpass all that has ever been done in this way before — by their artistic value, the choice of the designs, and the attention applied to their execution — yet, they are sold at a price quite inferior to their real value. They could not have been produced at such favorable prices, had it not been for the numerous editions published and the aim they are intended to serve. Each album is edited in several languages and is composed of a series of unpublished and much varied designs accompanied by explanatory texts. Ladies who do not find in our assortment the languages with which they are acquainted, will nevertheless be able to use successfully the albums of the D-M-C Library. Owing to the clearness as well as the perfection of the designs, the text becomes a secondary question and it will always be easy to execute most of the patterns shown in these albums without having need of the text. Further on will be found a description of these publications, which can be obtained of booksellers, mercers and at needlework depots or direct from the Comptoir AlsaciEn de BrodEriE, anc* Th. dE Dielmont, Muehouse (France). List of the publications OF THE D • M • C L.I BRARY * Encyclopedia of Needlework. A handsome volume in-16^0 of about 800 pages, illustrated by 1107 engravings and 13 coloured plates. English binding. Gilt top. * The ABC of sewing. Pamphlet in-8°, 12 pages of text, 23 explanatory illustrations and a plate of letters. * The ABC of knitting. Pamphlet in-80, 16 pages of text, 17 explanatory illustrations. Albums for Cross Stitch Embroidery, 1st, Ilnd and Ilird Series (Albums de Broderies au Point de Croix). 1st Series: 32 plates. Ilnd Series: 40 plates with coloured designs. Ilird Series : 40 plates. In-4°. * Cross Stitch • New Designs, 1st Series. Album in-8°, containing 24 coloured plates, composed of grounds, borders, &c. * Cross Stitch ■ New Designs, Ilnd, Ilird and IVth Series. Three albums in large octavo, each containing 20 coloured plates. * Cross Stitch ■ New Designs, Vth Series. Album in large octavo, containing 16 coloured plates of borders, backgrounds, &c. * Marking Stitch, 1st Series. Album in-8° of 12 coloured plates. * Marking Stitch, Ilnd, Ilird and IVth Series. Three albums in-8° each containing 16 coloured plates. (*) The publications marked with an asterisk (*) are edited in English. IJST OF THE PUBI,ICATIONS OF THE D-M-C I are edited in English. I