-3>T- 
 
 CORNELL 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 WALTER F. WILLCOX 
 ENDOWMENT FUND 
 
DATE DUE 
 
 PHCft<S>WWi 
 
 »fe«i4Xiy'"* 
 
 EO IN U. S.* 
 
 oj.equato 
 
 3 1924 028 752 
 
ADVENTUEES 
 
 IN 
 
 THE GREAT FOREST 
 
 OF 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA 
 
 AND THE 
 
 COUNTRY OF THE DWARFS 
 
 By PAUL DU CHAILLU 
 
 AUTHOR OF " THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SON " ETft 
 
 WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 ABRWSED AND eOFVLAK EDIXIOH 
 
 HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS ii f„ 
 NEW YORK AND LONDON . | | 
 
 W ■ '■ t ■ \' 
 

 
 1U4 
 
 A'' 
 
 Copyright, 1871, by Kaupek & Brothers. 
 Copyi-iglit, 1890, by Harper & Brothers. 
 j:'l ',10 Copyright, 1899, by Baui. do Ciiaillu. 
 
 M ' *' ! All riijhts reserved. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The heroic exploits of Stanley and his followers have aroused 
 a fresh interest in African exploration, and my former works on 
 Equatorial Africa being now out of print, I have been encouraged 
 by my publisher to condense into one popular volume, and to re- 
 issue, the narrative of my journeys. 
 
 I may claim to be the first white man who penetrated into that 
 vast and unbroken forest which, as I have elsewhere written, 
 extends north and south of the equator, varying in breadth from 
 two to tliree degrees on each side of it. Now and then, prairies 
 looking like islands, resembling so many gems, are found in the 
 midst of this dark sea of everlasting foliage. 
 
 In this great woody wilderness man is scattered and divided 
 into numerous tribes. The forest, thinly inhabited by man, is still 
 more scantily inhabited by those species of animals found in great 
 number in almost every other part of Africa. There are neither 
 rhinoceroees, zebras, girafEes, nor ostriches, and few of the many 
 species of the antelope group, including elands and gazelles, are to 
 be seen. Hence large carnivorous animals are scarce; the lion is 
 quite absent, leopards and two or three species of hyenas and jack- 
 als only being found. There were no beasts of burden — neither 
 horse, camel, donkey, nor cattle. The only true domesticated 
 animals were goats, sheep, and fowls: I found the goats increas- 
 ing in number as I advanced into the interior, and the fowls de- 
 creasing. 
 
 On the other hand, this region is peopled by a large number 
 of venomous serpents, by several formidable kinds of ants, and 
 by many strange varieties of apes, headed by the King of the 
 African forest, the Gorilla. 
 
 In this strange and weird country I travelled alone, making 
 friends with the various tribes, studying their language, and al- 
 ways being passed on from one to another with friendly com- 
 
Ti PREFACE. 
 
 mendation. I took do tent with me, but trusted entirely, when I 
 was not residing in any village, to such temporary shelters, roof- 
 ed with leaves, as the natives are accustomed to make for them- 
 selves. 
 
 No roads traverse this dense jungle ; the villages and settle- 
 ments of the different tribes, which are often separated by wide 
 and desolate tracts of uninhabited country, are connected by nar- 
 row and tortuous paths, which form the only channels of com- 
 munication. From these branch off occasional hunting tracks, 
 which, after a score of miles, frequently lose themselves, or come 
 to an abrupt termination ; and woe betide the man who, without 
 guide or knowledge of the paths, should lose himself in this in- 
 extricable labyrinth. 
 
 Before leaving New York for London to attend to the publica- 
 tion of "Explorations in Equatorial Africa," my much-esteemed 
 friend and publisher, Mr. Fletcher Harper, said to me : " Paul Du 
 Cliaiiln, your book is soon to be published in England. As you 
 see, your name is on the title-page. I want now to give you 
 some advice: Stick to it — stick to it." Astonished, I asked 
 what he meant. He answered, with a smile, "Stick to it." Being 
 then young and unsophisticated, I could hardly realize what he 
 meant. 
 
 The bitter controversy which arose in England on the publica- 
 tion of my first book explains it. That bitterness has passed 
 away, and has been almost forgotten — at any rate by myself — 
 except in so far as it is associated with the names of those dear 
 friends who there stood by me through it all — chief among them 
 Sir Richard Owen, Sir Roderic Murchison, H. W. Bates, my ven- 
 erable publisher, John Murray, and many others. The best of 
 my specimens of gorillas are now in the Natural History Section 
 of the British Museum ; some are to be found m the United 
 States; while my other collections are distributed amono" various 
 museums, chiefly in America. 
 
 A few travellers, and Mr. Stanley at their head, have touched 
 the outskirts of the country I traversed, and have confirmed by 
 independent testimony my narrative, more especially on such 
 points as the existence of tribes of cannibals and dwarfs — which 
 I was the first to discover — the density and vast extent of the 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 
 central forest of Africa, and the existence of a huge range of 
 mountains to the eastward ; but no white man, so far as I am 
 aware, has been able to penetrate to the haunts of the gorilla and 
 bring home specimens killed by himself since my time. 
 
 I ought to mention, in conclusion, that in order to avoid rep- 
 etition and retracing my steps more than is necessary, I have so 
 grouped ray several journeys as to deal with each district sep- 
 arately ; but to make this arrangement more clear, I now give 
 a chronological table of my journeys according to years and 
 months. 
 
 First Expedition. 
 
 1855. October, left New York. 
 
 " December, reached Africa. 
 
 1856. January to March, at Gaboon. 
 " April, started for Cape Lopez. 
 
 " July 27, started for Corisoo to visit the Fans. 
 " October, returned to Corisco Bay, ascended the Moondah, 
 and crossed to Gaboon country. 
 
 1857. February 5, started from the Gaboon for Commi country 
 
 to explore the Ogobai. 
 
 1858. February 26, set out for Goumbi. Explored the Rembo 
 
 and Ovenga country. 
 " August 13, returned to Biagano. 
 " October 10, started from Biagano for the Ashira and 
 
 Apiugi countries. 
 
 1859. Returned from Apingi country to Biagano. 
 " JiLTie, embarked for America. 
 
 Second Expedition. 
 
 1863-4. Explore again the Commi country. 
 
 1864. October, leave Goumbi for the Asliira country and Olen- 
 
 da's village. 
 
 1865. March, start for the Otando country and Mayolo's village. 
 " May, from Mayolo's village to the lands of the Aponos, 
 
 Ishogos, Ashangos, etc., and the country of the dwarfs. 
 " July, fi"-ht with the natives, and retreat to the sea-shore. 
 " September, sail for England. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Gaboon — The Mpongwo tribe — The Mpongwe one of the great 
 families of the negro race — Decrease of the Mpongwe and other tribes 
 — Their villages and houses — Appearance of the Mpongwe — Their 
 dress — Their cunning as Iraders .. .. .. .. ., 1 — 6 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Old King Glass — His death — Secret burial — Mourning customs — The 
 election of a new king — Treatment before being made a king — Food 
 —Plantation 6—10 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Corisco Island — The Mljengo tribe — Death of Tonda — Sorrowful scene — 
 Departure for the Muni river — Mliango — Adventure at sea — Capture 
 of a debtor — Lost in the Muni mangrove swamps— Arrival at 
 Dayoko's — Reception .. .. .. .. '.. .. 10 — 17 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 A king in Africa — Jealousy of the natives in regard to tra<le — Dayoko 
 wants to keep me — Appearance of Mbousha — Death of a wizard — 
 Departure for the interior — Asc(nt of tlie Muni — A Shekiani village 
 — The Ntamliounay and Noonday rivers — Mbene village — A new 
 plantation — Reception by King Mbene — Offer of a wife . . 17 — 28 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Return of Dayoko's men — All alone — lam Mbene 's white man — Different 
 tribes — An ideal country for an African — Mbondemo houses — Poly- 
 gamy — Its political aspect — Causes of quarrels and wars — Departure 
 for the cannibal country — Among tliu hills — A strike for higher jiay 
 in tlie dense forest — Huts for travellers — A beautiful torrent — High 
 mountains — A big snake — Snakes as food — Discovery of goi-illa 
 
X CONTENTS. ' 
 
 tracks — Fright of the women — Unsuccessful gorilla hunt — Return to 
 the camp — Superstitions about gorilla — Starvation — Coming to a 
 Tillage .. - -, 29—45 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Hunger — Meeting with cannibals — They think I am a spirit — Great crowds 
 of cannibals — Appearance of the Fans — Fan dress — (-iorilla hunting — 
 Fierce attack of a gorilla — His horrid appearance — Death of a gorilla 
 — The Bakalai — Wailing of the Bakalai — Love of the people for 
 tobacco .. ,. .. .. .. ..■^~ r.~ ~ 46 — 57 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Departure for a Fan village— ^Cannibal practices of the Fans — Fierce 
 appearance of the king — Head-dress of the Fans — A queen jjf the 
 Fans — A Fan village — Signs of cannibalism everywhere — Refusal of 
 cooked food — Ndiayai and his warriors — Weapons of the Fans — Drum, 
 musical instruments . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 — 70 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Elephant hunting with the cannibals — The king hunts with me — Appear- 
 ance of the forest — Man killed by an elephant — Ceremonies round a 
 dead elephant — Habits of the elephant — Fan marriage ceremony — 
 Eating those who die a natural death ^^'Bim-ery of the Fans — 
 Cannibalistic custom — Blacksmith — Pottery — Among the cannibal 
 Oshebas — Bunbakai, king of the Oshebas — Dare not go further 
 inland — Idol worship among the cannibals . . . . . . 70 — 87 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Back to the coast— King Mbene gets a cannibal wife — The Fans regret 
 my departure — Good-bye to the Fans and their mountains — The rains 
 — Leopards — Mbicho villages — The Noya River — Wanga — King 
 Alapay — Hunting with nets — Ferocious ants — The great forest — Over 
 a mangrove swamp — A big snake . . . . . . . . gy 99 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Journey to Cape Lopez — Princess Akerai — A plantation — Prairie land 
 
 Caught in a storm — Mpongwe canoe-buildeis — Large size of canoes 
 
 Ogoula-Limbai— Ogoula a great elephant hunter— Getting into 
 canoes — Our predicament — The negroes great swimmers 100 107 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Sangatanga — The royal residence — Tl>e Oroungou people — Visit to King 
 Bango — The Mafouga — The king's crown — A ball given in my 
 honour — Songs — Rum in plenty — Five reputed idols .. 108 115 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Journey inland from Sangatanga — Preparationa for hunting— The king 
 gives me three great hunters— Beautiful appearance of the country 
 — Buffaloes and elephants — Cool nights — Hippopotami — An ap- 
 proaching caravan — Mistrust — The village of Ngola — King Njambai 
 — Shinshooko's house —Torturing a woman — Rescue — Appearance of 
 the Shekianis — Their methods of warfare — My guns and watches are 
 objects of wonder — Customs of the Shekianis — Our camp — Sliooting 
 two leopards — Superstitions in regard to leopard's tail and liver — 
 Aboko kills an elephant — Butfaloes — Retura to Sangatanga— Tlie 
 Oroungou burial-ground .. .. .. .. .. 115 — 134 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Camma country — The coast line — Surf — The schooner Caroline — 
 Crew — A tornado — Trouble at the mouth of the Fernand Vaz river — 
 King Sangala and Ranpano — Saugala sends a hostage — Great palaver 
 — Intense excitement — Discretion the better part of valour — Buildiag 
 my settlement — I have to be severe . . .. .. .. 135 — 144 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The Commi people — King Olenga-Yombi — I am obliged to attend a ball — 
 Native love of rum — Fetich-houses — Mbuiri-i and Abarabou — O^engua 
 — Ifouta tossed by a buflalo — A live young gorilla — How he was cap- 
 tured^His appearance — I call Idm " Joe " — He is uutameable — His 
 escape and recapture — Death of Joe — Shipping a young gorilla for 
 London — Surprising gorillas in a plantain plantation — How gorillas 
 walk — Another young live gorilla — How he was captured — The 
 mother brought in not dead — Gorillas are often gregarious — Shooting 
 hippopotami at night on shore — Habits of the hippopotamus — Combat 
 between two hippopotami .. .. .. .. .. 144 — 166 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Ascent of the Ogobai — The Anengue lake — King Damagondai — Dama- 
 gondai lecturing his wives — King Shimbouvenegani — Shelters of the 
 nshiego-mbouve' — Killing a nshiego-mbouve' ; its appearance — Hunt- 
 ing the crocodile — Damagondai's idol — Troubles during the descent 
 down the river .. .... .. .. .. .. 167 — 183 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 The dry season — Migration of birds — Serpents — The ceremony of bola 
 ivoga — Theory of the Commi about disease — Death of Ishungui — A 
 greater doctor — Exorcising a sorcerer — Fear of witchcraft by the 
 people — Capture of a young gorilla — Death of its mother — Death of 
 the young gorilla — I am foisoned — Punishment and release of the 
 poisoner.. .. .. .. .• -. .■ 183 — 195 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 King Quengueza sends his son to me as a hostage — Invitation to come to 
 his country — AsBembling tlie Biagano people — I leave my property 
 in their hands — Binkimongami appointed the keeper of my goods — 
 Good-bye to Eanpauo — Departure for Goumbi — Ascent of the Bembo 
 — A man in ntohogo — Eeception by Quengueza— Goumbi— Super- 
 stitions of King Quengueza — Ceremony for driving away the aniemba 
 — The alumbi house — Hunting — Killing a gorilla — Ordeal — Capture 
 of a young gorilla — Superstitions about gorillas — Bakalai villages — 
 King Obindji— Trial by hot iron 195—218 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 I discover a new ape — Tlie kooloo-kamba — Gouamba, or craving for meat — 
 Troublesome flies — Malaouen — Numerous traces of gorilla — Killing a 
 large male gorilla — Start for tlie ebony country — The ebony tree — 
 Severe attack of fever — Take 150 grains of quinine in tliree days — 
 Kindness of women during my illness — Death of a young wizard — 
 Killing a nshiego-mbouve' — Capture of a young nshiego-mbonve' — 
 His face is white — His mother is black — The young nshiego-mbouve' 
 becomes tame — Ho turns darker as he grows older — Privileges of 
 women — Tlie idol said to have walked and talked .. 219 — 240 
 
 CHAPTEB XIX. 
 
 Njambai — Worship of Njambai by women only — I get a peep inside the 
 house of Njambai — Great wrath of the women — I am in a perilous 
 position — Mbaiigo and Quengueza take my part — Paying a fine — 
 Gorilla hunting — Man killed by a gorilla — His gun bent— Gambo — 
 The ibolai and igoogouai flies — The iboco and nchouna flies — Great 
 number of parrots — The eloway wasp — Superstition in rcgaril to 
 diflerent animals as food .. .. .. .. .. 240 — 252 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Ants — The bashikouay ant — Its ferocity — Groat moving armies of bashi- 
 kouays — Plow they spread — Their mode of attack — They travel 
 night and day — Every animal and insect flies before them — The 
 white ants — Tlieir buildings — Their habits — How they repair their 
 houses — Their appearance — The ipi, or scaly ant-eater . . 253 — 262 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Subdivision of tribes — Tribes divided into clans — Chieftainship — The 
 ciders— Two kinds of slaves — Polygamy — Religious notions of the 
 negroes — Idols — Fetiches and chiunis — Rabolo's fetich — The curse oi 
 witchcraft — Thednctor— Power of the doctor .. .. 203 — 271 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 The gorilla — Habitation of the gorilla — Habits of the gorilla — His food — 
 Shyness of the female gorilla — Fierceness of tlie male — His enormous 
 strength — Height of the gorilla — His appearance — Hands and feet of 
 the gorilla — Hanno and Pliny on the gorilla — The chimpanzee — Dif- 
 ference between the chimpanzee and the gorilla — Habits of young 
 chimpanzee — The nsliicgo-mbouve, or bald-headed cliimpanzee — The 
 nkengo-nshiego — The kooloo-kamba . . .. .. ,. 271-290 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 The Bakalai people — Tribes widely intermixed — Roving tendency of the 
 Bakalai — Instability of their villages — Their quarrelsome habits — 
 Their war customs — Marriage customs — Negroes' knowledge of human 
 nature — Musical instrmnents . . . . . . . . ' . . 290-297 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Another journey for the interior— Meeting of the people of Biagano— 
 Good-bye to Biagano — Arrival at Gourabi — Death of Mpomo — 
 Witchcraft ceremony — Drinking of the mboundou — Execution for 
 witchcraft — Hogo, a sfiirit living in the moon — Invocation of Ilogo — 
 A species of manatee . . . . . • . • ■ ■ • • 298-308 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Arrival at Mpopo — Death of Querlaouen — Obindji enjoins Okendjo to take 
 care of me— A cheery evening — Our entry into Asliira-land — Arrival 
 at Akoonga — King Olenda sends men to fetch me— Extraordinary 
 appearance of King Olenda— He receives me with great honour — The 
 Ashira plain — Numerous villages — Appearance of the Ashira people 
 
 Dress Mode of dressing the hair — Women's toilette — Pernicious 
 
 eifect of smoking wild hemp — Story of a leopard attacking a gorilla — 
 Shelter of the nshiego-mbouve — Starvation— Scramble for my cut 
 hair 308-330 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Preparations to go to the Apingi country— The Ovigui river— A dan- 
 gerous bridge — The primeval forest — Beautiful brooks and rills — 
 Travellers' shelters- Leopard attacking a buffalo— Remandji, king of 
 the Apingi— A big river— Crossing the Bembo Apingi— Offer of a 
 negro for supper— Stories about a cloven-footed race — I am made king 
 —Am invested with the kendo— The kendo, the emblem of royalty— 
 Tattooing— Supposed to be married to an Apingi woman— Industrious 
 habits of the Apingi — Ownership in trees— Their knowledge of 
 weaving — Powerful fetich to kill leopard .. .. .. 330-348 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 The ceremouy of bongo — Ascending the Eerabo Apingi — Apingi canoea 
 — Apingi villages and houses — Great reputation of the Apingi 
 fetiches — Quaint customs in regard to getting a wife — Spiders — Up- 
 setting of a canoe — Apingi woman in the water — Customs regarding 
 the dead — The Samba Nagoshi Falls — Grand and beautiful sight — 
 Legend regarding the falls — The Rembo Okonda and the Kembo 
 Ngouyai — Different tribes — Eastward from the Apingi country — No 
 more shoes — Bleeding feet — Starvation — Farewell to the Apingi 
 country 348-364 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 A long absence— jWrecked in the breakers — Once again with my faithful 
 Commi — Saugala, Makombe', Binkimoiigani dead — Ranpano and his 
 superstitions — I receive fresh supplies — Departure for the interior — 
 Arrival at Goambi— Quengueza invokes the spirits of his ancestors — 
 Departure from Obindji — Advice of Quengueza to my men — Once 
 more in Ashira-land — A whole group of gorillas — Quarrels between 
 my men and the Ashira — The small-pox — A terrible plague — De- 
 parture of Quengueza — Fearful effects of the plague — Death of King 
 Olenda— A valley of the dead 364-380 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 Departure from the Ashira country — Crossing the Ovigui again — A village 
 of slaves and their plantations — I am plundered — Illness of Macondai 
 — He is left behind — A beautiful forest tract — Robbed again by my 
 porters — The Koola nut — Hunger — The Mpegui nut . . 380-387 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 Arrival in the Otando prairie — Mayolo — Present of food — Mayolo makes a 
 speech — Illness of Mayolo — Ariival of Macondai — Surgical practice of 
 the Otandos — A female doctor — The legend of Akenda Mbani — Pro- 
 tecting the village against witchcraft — My speech to Mayolo — Speech 
 of Igala — Mayolo gets tipsy — Monkeys as food — I send men to 
 Apono-land — Their reception — The people wonder at my powerful 
 magnet — The Otando people — Native dogs.. .. .. 388-401 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Start for Apono-land — An Apono village — Fright of the people — King 
 Nchiengaiu — The village of Mouendi — The story of the sun and of 
 the moon — Nchiengain and Mayolo drunk with palm wine — Their 
 enthusiasm for going inland— The Aponos a merry people — They love 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 to get tipsy — Leaving Nohiengain'a village — Cross a large river — 
 Ishogo and Apouo villages— The village of Dilolo— A war cloud— A 
 great meeting — The Apono village of Mokaba— Appearance and 
 dress of the Aponos — The Aponos a warlike people — Iron workers — 
 Their weapons — Aponos accompany me to the Ishogo country — 
 Nchiengaiu returns to his country — Arrival among the Ishogos— The 
 villages of Igoumbie' and Yengue 401-409 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 The Apono country— The village of Mokaba— Large quantity of palm- 
 trees — Palm wine a favourite drink — Many men with scars — The 
 Ocuya performance — The Apono people — Fashion— Weapons of the 
 Aponos — From Mokaba to Igoumbie' — A large village — Singing at 
 night 410-420 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIIL 
 
 From Igoumbie to Yengue' — Discovery of a deserted village of the dwarfs 
 — Curious houses of the dwarfs— Yengue' — The king makes his ap- 
 pearance — Popularity of my red woollen caps — Presented with goats 
 and fowls -Superstitions in regard to twins — The village of Mokenga 
 — I am said to have moved a huge granite block — A village fetich- 
 tree — Leopards — King Quembila — Panic among the Ishogoo — Dismiss 
 my Apono porters and guides — The Ishogo tribes — Appearance of the 
 people — Women's head-dress — Wealth of an Ishogo man — The Ishogos 
 are celebrated weavers . . . . . . . . . . . . 420-434 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 I leave Mokenga — Engage Ishogo porters — The home of rain — The story 
 of the rainy and dry seasons — Strike among the Ishogos for more pay 
 — Drastic measures threatened — Among Ashango villages — Our en- 
 trance into Niembouai — Why chiefs do not show themselves at first 
 — The Njavi, Abombo, and Asliangui tribes — Hear of a large river — 
 A village idol — The mbuti men, or doctors . . .. .. 434-441 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Tlie dwarfs, or Obongoa — Villages of dwarfs —Another deserted village of 
 dwarfs — A new village — We approach with great caution — Fliglit <■{ 
 the dwarfs — Meeting some dwarfs — Their shyness — Leaving the dwarf 
 village in despair — Return to their village — The people had fled — 
 Cunning of the dwarfs — Laughable scene when maisuririg some of 
 them — Appearance of the dwarfs — Modes of burial of the dwarfs — 
 ^he dwarfs great trappers and hunters of game^Mode of life of the 
 dwarfs — Tliey are scattered all over the equatorial forests towards the 
 east 441-44'J 
 
xvi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Dopnrture from Niembouai — Onwards towards the east — A queer ferry — 
 Appearance of the country — The village of Niembouai Olomba — 
 Numt:rou3 beehives — Ashaugos — The Apouo and Ashira languages 
 the same— Appearance of the Ashangos — Attacked by Bashikouay 
 ants — Leave Niembouai Olomba — The village of Mombana — Outfit 
 of a bride— Presentation of Ntchiugo, or red powder — Three different 
 paths to the Njavi country 449—457 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVn. 
 
 Arrival at Mouaou Kombo — True Ashango clans — Trouble brewing — De- 
 parture of the Niembouai and Mobana people — Retire from the village 
 — A palaver — Peace made — Return to the village — Promise to take me 
 to the Njavi tribe — A terrible accident — A man accidentally killed — 
 Great panic among the natives— War drums beating . . 457 — 463 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVm. 
 
 A momentous pause — The head wife of a friendly chief killed — A general 
 shout of war — The order of retreat — A deadly struggle commences — 
 Igiila and I are wounded — My men naiTowly escape — Making a 
 desperate stand — Long rifle firing — Tumultuous shouting — Devotion 
 of my Commi men — Throwing away our heavy loads — Another stand 
 — Tlie enemy is cowed — Troubles threatened among the natives — 
 Advice to my men in case I am killed or die — Passing Niembouai 
 Olomba at night — Travelling tlirough the forest in darkness — Arrival 
 at a plantation — Friendly welcome — Stories of our struggles — The 
 war-disli prepared between the people of Mobana and Mouaou-Komba 
 — I am supposed to change my shape during the figlit — Leaving 
 Igoumhie' — Farewell to the Ishogos — On our way towards the sea- 
 shore — Meeting with Quengueza . . . . . . . . 463- — 476 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 Map .. 
 
 Mpoiigwe Woman — Mode of Dressing the Hair 
 
 Mbiindemo Blan and Woman, showing manner of i 
 
 and Burdens 
 Fan Warrior 
 
 Fan Woman and CI lild .. 
 Fan Shield and Spears 
 
 My First Gorilla 
 
 Ndiayai, King of the Fans 
 
 Fan Bowman 
 
 Poisoned Arrows, in a Skin Bag 
 
 Fan Knife and Axes 
 
 Grand Reception by the Cannibals 
 
 Fan Warriors 
 
 Fan Drum and Handja . . 
 
 TheHandja 
 
 Elephant Battle among the Fans 
 Fan Blacksmiths . . 
 
 Fan Pottery 
 
 Fan Pipes . . 
 Fan Spoon . . 
 
 Crossing a Mangrove-Swamp 
 Horn and Bell of Iron 
 Shekiani Spoons 
 
 Wambee : the Shekiani Banjo . . 
 Encampment for the Night 
 Ncheri — a diminutive Gazelle 
 Commi Man and Woman 
 Native tossed by White Bull 
 loung Gorilla 
 
 River Navigation in Equatorial Africa 
 Nshiego-mbouve (young ) 
 Crocodile-hunting on Lake Anengue 
 Idol, Goddess of the Slaves 
 Ouganga exorcising a Sorcerer . . 
 Prisoner in Ntchogo 
 Reception at Goumbi 
 Kendo 
 
 Obindji in his Easy-chair 
 The Kooloo-kamba 
 Death of the Gorilla 
 Hunter killi d by a Gorilla 
 The Bongo Antelope 
 2 
 
 To fac 
 ying Chililr 
 
 page 1 
 2 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 The Bashikouay Ant, magnified to twice its natural size 
 
 Nests of Mushroom Ants and Tree Ants 
 
 Nests of Forest Ants 
 
 Ipi, or scaly Ant- eater 
 
 Whip, or the African Peace-maker 
 
 Gorilla's head 
 
 Gorilla, male 
 
 Gorilla, female 
 
 Gorilla, female 
 
 Gorilla, male 
 
 Gorilla, young 
 
 Gorilla, red jump .. 
 
 Gorilla, shedding teeth . . 
 
 Chimpanzees 
 
 Nshiego-mbouve and young 
 
 Nshiego-mbouve's . . 
 
 Head of Kooloo-kamba 
 
 Kooloo-kambas 
 
 Bar of Kooloo-kamba 
 
 Skeleton of Man . . 
 
 Skeleton of Gorilla 
 
 Group of Bakalai . . 
 
 Ibeka : Musical Instrument of the Bakalai 
 
 Harp of Bakalai 
 
 Decapitation Scene at Goumbi . . 
 
 A Roll of Asbira Tobacco 
 
 Ashira Thread and Needle 
 
 Ashira Iron Weapons 
 
 Ashira Belles 
 
 Liamba Leaf, or Wild Hemp 
 
 Cynogale Velox 
 
 Nshiego-mlxiuve in his Shelter . . 
 
 Ogana : an Asliira Housekeeper , . 
 
 Rude Bridge over the Ovigui 
 
 The Leopard and his Prey 
 
 Apingi Man and Woman with Ndcngui or Green Cloth 
 
 An Apingi Village 
 
 The Kendo Squirrel 
 
 Wicker-work Rattle to drive the Devil out 
 
 Apingi tools 
 
 Opaitai, or Porter's Basket 
 
 Gorillas surprised in the Forest . . 
 
 Mokaba. An Apono Village 
 
 Isliogo Houses of Igoumbie, with Ornamented Doors 
 
 Ishogo Fashions. — Oblique Chignon 
 
 Ishogo Fashions. — Horizontal Chignon . . 
 
 Ishogo Fashions. — Vertical Chignon 
 
 Ishogo Fashions. — Male head-dress 
 
 Ishogo Loom and Shuttle 
 
 Approach to the Camp of the Obongo Dwarf 
 
 An African Group 
 
 Retreat from Ashango-Land 
 
EXPLOEATIONS AND ADVENTUKES 
 
 IN 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFEICA. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 The Gaboon — The Mpongwe trilje — The Mpongwe one of the great 
 families of the negro race — Decrease of the Mpongwe and other tribes 
 — Their villages and houses — Appearance of the Mpongwe — Their 
 dress — Their cunning as ti-adera. 
 
 As a lad I left America for the Western Coast of Africa in 
 tlie month of October, 1855. My purpose was to spend some 
 years in the exploration of a region of territory lying between 
 lat. 2° north and 2° south on the West Coast. 
 
 The ooast-line of this region is dotted here and there with 
 negro villages. The power and knowledge of the white man 
 extend but a very few miles from the coast ; and the interior 
 was still a tm-ra incognita. Of the natural history — which was 
 the subject that interested me most — sufficient was known to 
 assure me that here was a field worthy of every effort of an 
 explorer and naturalist. 
 
 As I intended to remain a little time on the Gaboon to 
 acclimatize myself more perfectly, I took up my residence 
 among my friends of many years, the American missionaries, 
 whose station is at Baraka, eight miles from the mouth of the 
 river. Here I found a welcome and a hospitable home. 
 
 The Mpongwe, the Coast natives — once numerous, were, 
 like so many of the African tribes, from various reasons 
 entirely disappearing. 
 
 The fact of this mysterious and, to some extent, unac- 
 
2 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. I. 
 
 countable extermination of certain tribes, who die out, leav- 
 ing no mark behind them, is patent to every observer. 
 
 The Mpongwe are a branch of one of the great families of 
 the negro race, which has moved gradually from the head- 
 waters of the Nazareth down towards the sea-shore, extending 
 its limits meantime to the north and south, until now they 
 are found from the Gaboon Eiver on the north to Cape St. 
 Catherine on the south. A portion have taken possession of 
 the sea-shore, and others are located inland. They have pro- 
 bably taken the place of other tribes who have disappeared in 
 
 MPONGWE WOMAN — MODE OF DRESSINQ THE HATE. 
 
 the strange way in which even the Mpongwe are now gradu- 
 ally lessening ; the Ndina tribe is nearly gone, only three 
 persons remaining of what was once a numerous people. 
 
 All the divisions of the Mpongwe speak the same language, 
 with a difference of only a few words ; though other tiibes, 
 sandwiched between, speak an entirely different tongue. I 
 know only that there are eight different tribes now settled 
 along the coast south of the Gaboon and in the interior, who 
 speak the same language and have evidently a common 
 origin. 
 
 The Mpongwe live in villages, which are generally located 
 
Chap. I. THE MPONGWE. 3 
 
 witli particular regard to the trading facilities afFoided by 
 the iiosition, for these uegroes are inveterate traders — in fact, 
 the most intelligent and acute merchants on the coast. Their 
 villages, though not extensive, have generally but one main 
 street, on both sides of which the houses are built. Some- - 
 times there are a few short cross-streets. In a considerable 
 village, the main street is often 20 yards wide and 200 yards 
 long. The houses, of course, vary in size according to the 
 wealth of the owner. They are built of a kind of bamboo, 
 which is obtained from a species of palm very plentiful here- 
 abouts, and whose leaves also furnish them mats for the 
 roofs. Indeed, this palm is one of the most generally useful 
 products of the country to the negroes. 
 
 The bouses are always of a quadrangular form, and from 
 20 to 100 feet in length or breadth. The principal room is 
 in the centre. The floor is of clay, which is pounded hard, 
 and by long use becomes a hard and clean flooring. Both 
 houses and street are neatly kept. 
 
 The walls are built up by first driving stakes into the 
 ground, and to these stakes the split bamboos are neatly tied. 
 One set is tied outside and another inside, and the crevices 
 which are left between are made close with the leaves of the 
 palm-tree. Thus the walls are smooth and glossy, and per- 
 fectly clean. 
 
 The Mpongwe are the best-looking people I have seen, 
 looking very much like the Mandigoes ; of ordinary size and 
 with pleasant negro features, but handsomer than the Congo 
 tribes. The men wear a shirt, generally of English, French, 
 or American calico, over which is wrapped a square cloth, 
 which falls to the ankles. To this is added a straw hat for 
 the head. Only the king is allowed to wear the high silk 
 hat. The wealthier men and chiefs are fond of dress, and 
 delight to show themselves in a bright military costume, 
 sword and all. 
 
 The principal, and, in most cases, only garment of the 
 women is a square cloth, which is wrapped about the body, 
 and covers them from above the hips to just below the knees. 
 On their bare legs and arms they delight to wear great 
 numbers of brass rings, often bearing from twenty-five to 
 
4 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. I. 
 
 thirty pounds of brass on each ankle in this way. This 
 ridiculous vanity greatly obstructs their locomotion, and 
 mates their walk a clumsy waddle. 
 
 The most characteristic trait of all the negro tribes I have 
 seen is their great eagerness and love for trade. 
 
 Let me here give the reader an idea of 'African commerce. 
 The rivers, which are the highways of the country, are, of 
 course, the avenues by which every species of export and 
 import must be conveyed from and to the interior tribes. 
 Now, the river-banks are possessed by different tribes. Thus, 
 while the Mpongwe hold the mouth and some miles above, 
 they are succeeded by the Shekiani, and these again by other 
 tribes, to the number of almost a dozen, before the mountains 
 of the interior are reached. Each of these tribes assumes to 
 itself the privilege of acting as go-between or middle-man to 
 those next to it, and charges a heavy percentage for this 
 office ; and no infraction of this rule is permitted under 
 penalty of war. Thus a tusk of ivory or a piece of ebony 
 may belong originally to a negro in the far interior, and if 
 he wants to barter it for " white man's trade," he dares not 
 take it to a market himself. If he should be rash enough to 
 attempt such a piece of enterprise his goods would be confis- 
 cated, and he, if caught, fined by those whose monopoly he 
 sought to break down, or most likely sold into slavery. 
 
 He is obliged by the laws of trade to intrust it to some 
 fellow in the next tribe nearer to the coast. He, in turn, 
 disposes of it to the next chief or friend ; and so ivory, or 
 ebony, etc., etc., passes through probably a dozen hands ere it 
 reaches the factory of the trader on the coast. 
 
 But this is only half the evil. Although the producer sold 
 his ivory, and though it was re-sold a dozen times, all thi8 
 trade was only a commisgion business with no advances. In 
 fact, the first holder has trusted each successive dispenser with 
 his property without any equivalent or " collateral " security. 
 Now, when the last black fellow disposes of this piece of 
 ebony or ivory to the white merchant or captain, he retains, 
 in the first place, a very liberal percentage of the returns for 
 his valuable services, and turns the remainder over to his 
 next neighbour above. He, in turn, takes out a commission 
 
 M 
 
Chap. I. TEE NEGEOES AS TRADESS. 5 
 
 for Ms trouble and passes on wliat is left ; and so, finally, a 
 very small remainder — too often nothing at all — is handed 
 over to the poor fellow who has inaugurated the speculation 
 or sent the tusk. 
 
 The consequence is that the interior tribes — who own the 
 most productive country — have little or no incentive to trade. 
 
 The trade in slaves is carried on in exactly the same way, 
 except that sometimes an infraction of trade-laws, or some 
 dii-turbance on account of witchcraft, causes a war between 
 two tribes. 
 
 I have heard the negroes called stupid, but my experience 
 shows them to be anything but that. They are very shrewd 
 traders indeed ; and no captain or merchant who is a new 
 hand on the coast will escape being victimized by their 
 cunning in driving a bargain. 
 
 Say that to-day the good ship Jenny has arrived in the 
 river. Immediately every black fellow is full of trade. The 
 ship is boarded by a crowd of fellows, each jabbering away, 
 apparently at random, but all telling the same story. 
 
 Never was there snch a dearth of ivory, or whatever the 
 captain may want ! 
 
 Never were the interior tribes so obstinate in demanding a 
 high price ! 
 
 Never was the whole coast so bare ! 
 
 Never were difficulties so great ! 
 
 There have been fights, captain ! 
 
 And fever, captain ! 
 
 And floods, captain ! 
 
 And no trade at all, captain ! 
 
 Not a tusk of ivory ! 
 
 Now, whUe they are pretending that nothing is fo be 
 bought, that there is no ivory on the coast, all this time the 
 cunning fellows have their hands full, and are eager to sell. 
 They know the captain is in a hurry. The coast is sickly. 
 The weather is hot. He fears his crew may fall sick or die, 
 and he be left with a broken voyage. Every day is there- 
 fore precious to him ; but to the black fellows all days are 
 alike. 
 
 Even then, however, there are tedious hours of chaffering. 
 
6 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. I. 
 
 A negro has perhaps only one tusk to sell, and he is willing 
 — as he must live on this sale for a long period of idleness — 
 to give much time to its proper disposal. He makes up his 
 mind beforehand how much more he will ask than he will 
 eventually take. He brings his tusk alongside ; spends the 
 afternoon in bargaining, and probably takes it back ashore at 
 dusk, to try again the next day ; till at last, when he sees he 
 cannot possibly get more, he strikes the bargain. I have 
 known several days to be spent in the selling of a single tusk 
 or a single cask of palm-oil. 
 
 Of course, the captain protests that he is not in a hurry — 
 that he can wait — that they shan't tire Mm out. But the 
 negroes know better ; they know the fatal advantage their 
 climate gives them. 
 
 When it is supposed that a captain or trader will return to 
 the coast no more after his present voyage, then he is pro- 
 perly victimized, as then the native has no fear of future 
 vengeance before him ; and I have known many individuals 
 who by the system of " trust " were all but ruined — getting 
 scarce any return at all. 
 
 CHAPTEK 11. 
 
 Old King Glass — His death — Secret burial — Mourning customs — The 
 election of a new king — Treatment before being made a king — Food — 
 Plantation. 
 
 While I was in the Gaboon old King Glass died. He had 
 long been ailing, but stuck to life with a determined tenacity. 
 He was a disagreeable old heathen, but in his last days 
 became very devout — after his fashion. His idol was always 
 freshly painted and brightly decorated ; his fetich was the 
 best-cared-for fetich in Africa ; and eveiy few days some great 
 doctor was brought down from the interior, and paid a lar<Te 
 
 fee for advising the old king. He was afiaid of witchcraft 
 
 thought everybody wanted to put him out of the way by 
 bewitching him ; and in this country your doctor does not 
 
Chap. II. DEATH OF KING GLASS. 7 
 
 try to cure your sickness; his business is to keep oif (he 
 witches. 
 
 The tiibe had grown tired of their king. They thought, 
 indeed, that he was himself a most potent and evil-disposed 
 wizard, and though the matter was not openly talked about, 
 there were few natives who would pass his house after night, 
 and none who would be tempted inside by any slighter pro- 
 vocation than an i:rresistible jug of rum. Indeed, if he had 
 not belonged to one of the most noble families of the Mpongwe 
 tribe, I think he would perhaps have been killed, so rife was 
 suspicion against him. 
 
 When he became ill at last everybody seemed very sorry ; 
 but several of my friends told me in confidence that the 
 whole -town hoped he would die ; and die he did. I was 
 awakened one morning early by the mournful cries and wails 
 with which the African oftener assumes a sham sorrow than 
 eases a real grief. All the town seemed lost in tears. It is 
 a most singular thing to see the faculty the women of Africa 
 have for pumping up tears on the slightest occasion, or on no 
 occasion at all. There needs no grief or pain to draw the 
 water. I have seen them shed tears copiously, and laughing 
 all the while. 
 
 The mourning and wailing lasted six days. On the 
 second the old kins' was secretly buried. The Mpongwe 
 kings are always buried by a few of the most trustworthy men 
 of the tribe in a spot which they only know of, and which is 
 for ever hidden from all others. This custom arises from a 
 vain belief of the Mpongwe that, as they are the most able 
 and intelligent people of Africa, the other tribes would like 
 much to get the head of one of their kings, with the brains 
 of which to make a powerful fetich. Such an advantage 
 they are not willing to give to their neighbours. Now, as it 
 is customary to hang a flag or a piece of cloth where a 
 Mpongwe is buried, these old men hung also a large piece of 
 bright cloth over a spot where the king was not laid. Where 
 he was put I cannot tell, because the secret was not told even 
 
 to me. 
 
 During the days of mourning the old men of the village 
 busied themselves in choosing a new king. This also is a 
 
8 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. II. 
 
 secret operation. The choice is made in private, and commu- 
 nicated to the populace only on the seventh day, when the 
 new king is to be crowned. Eat the king is kept ignorant of 
 his good fortune to the last. 
 
 It happened that Njogoni, a good friend of my own, was 
 elected. The choice fell on him, in part because he came of a 
 good family, but chiefly because he was «, favourite of the 
 people and could get the most votes, i do not know that 
 Njogoni had the slightest suspicion of hisfelevation. At any 
 rate, if he had, he shammed ignorance vei*- well. As he was 
 walking on the shore, on the morning of the seventh day, he 
 was suddenly set upon by the entire populace, who proceeded 
 to a ceremony which is preliminary to the crowning, and 
 which must deter any but the most ambitious men from 
 aspiring to the crown. They surrounded him in a dense 
 crowd, and then began to heap upon him every manner of 
 abuse that the worst of mobs could imagine. Some spat in 
 his face ; some beat him with their fists ; some kicked him ; 
 others threw disgusting objects at him ; while those unlucky 
 ones who stood on the outside, and could reach the poor fellow 
 only with their voices, assiduously cursed him, his father, his 
 mother, his sisters and brothers, and all his ancestors, to the 
 remotest generation. A stranger would not have given a 
 cent for the life of him who was presently to be crowned. 
 
 Amid all the noise and struggle, I caught the words which 
 explained all this to me ; for eveiy few minutes some fellow, 
 administering an especially severe blow or kick, would shout 
 out, " You are not our king yet ; for a little while we will do 
 what we please with you. By-and-by we shall have to do 
 your will." 
 
 Njogoni bore himself like a man and a prospective king. 
 He kept his temper, and took all the abuse with a smiling 
 face. When it had lasted about half-an-hour they took him 
 to the house of the old king. Here he was seated, and became 
 again for a little while the victim of his people's curses. 
 
 Then all became silent ; and the elders of the people 
 rose and said, solemnly (the people repeating after them), 
 " Now we choose you for our king ; we engage to listen 
 to you and to obey you." 
 
Chap. II. CORONATION ORGIES. 9 
 
 A silence followed, and presently the silk hat, which is the 
 emblem of Mpongwe royalty, was brought in and placed on 
 Njogoni's head. He was then dressed in a red gown, and 
 received the greatest marks of respect from all who had just 
 now abused him. 
 
 Now followed a six days' festival, during which the poor 
 king, who had taken with the office also the name of his 
 predecessor, was obliged to receive his subjects in his own 
 house, and was not allowed to stir out ; six days of indescrib- 
 able gorging of food and bad rum — of beastly drunkenness 
 and uproarious festivity. Numbers of strangers came in 
 from surrounding villages to pay their respects; and all 
 brought more rum, more palm-wine, and more food. Every- 
 thing that tended toward festivity was given away, and all 
 who came were welcome. 
 
 Old King Glass, for whom for six days no end of tears had 
 been shed, was now forgotten ; and new King Glass, poor 
 fellow, was sick with exhaustion, for day and night he had to 
 be ready to receive and be civil to all who came. 
 
 Finally, all the rum was drunk up, the allotted days were 
 expired, and quiet once more began to reign. Now, for the 
 first time, his new majesty was permitted to walk out and 
 view his domains. 
 
 The vegetable food of the Mpongwe, and with little 
 variation of most of the other tribes of this region near the 
 sea-shore, consists of Indian corn, the plantain, yams, sweet 
 potatoes, cassava (manioc), pumpkins, and pea-nuts. The 
 last produce enormously, and considerable oil could be made 
 from them if any one would give attention to their cultivation 
 for this purpose. The forests abound in wild fruits and nuts, 
 some of which are eaten ; for instance, the pine-apple grows 
 wild in all parts of this region. 
 
 Their plantations are never near their villages, and often 
 many miles away. The consequence is, that during the dry 
 season the Mpongwe villages are mostly deserted, all hands, 
 men, women, and slaves, being busily engaged on their 
 farms in preparing the soil for the crop which must be 
 put down by the beginning of the rainy season. This is 
 a busy time, as generally new clearings have to be made. 
 
10 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. III. 
 
 for which the men out down the trees and burn them, when 
 the women come in and put in the crop. They use no 
 ploughs or hoes, but only a little tool like a gardener's 
 dibble, with which they turn up a piece of sod, put in a 
 seed, cover it over, and pass on to the next. But rude as 
 their agricultural knowledge is, they sometimes raise good 
 crops. 
 
 The Mpongwe eat the meat of almost every animal found 
 in the forest and river — deer, antelopes, wild boar. Civili- 
 zation has taught them not to eat animals of other orders 
 like the other natives, such as chimpanzee, crocodile, monkeys, 
 rats, and so forth ; such food is eaten by their slaves. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Corisco island — The Mbengo tribe — Death of Tonda — Sorrowful scene — 
 Departure for the Muni river — Mbango— Adventure at sea — Capture 
 of a debtor — Lost in the Muni mangrove swamps — AiTival at Dayoko's 
 — Reception. 
 
 It was my intention to proceed first on an exploration of 
 the Eiver Muni, and for this purpose I sailed from Gaboon 
 for Corisco Island, where I was to get canoes and men to 
 help me at least a part of the way up river. 
 
 The island is not more than twelve miles in circumference, 
 with a population of about 1000 souls. The people are quiet, 
 peaceable, and hospitable to strangers. They belong to the 
 Mbenga tribe, the most enterprising traders and the most 
 daring boatmen. 
 
 This tribe inhabits not only Corisco, but also the land 
 about the neighbouring Capes Steiras and St. John. Their 
 language differs somewhat from the Bakalai, but has, like 
 that, no letter E, while the Mpongwe and its dialects abound 
 in the use of this letter. 
 
 A few days before I left the island, Tonda, a Mbenga fellow, 
 died, and at his funeral I was witness to a singular ceremony, 
 akin to the " waking " of the body. 
 
 The mother of poor Tonda, who heard that I wished to see 
 
Chap. III. NATIVE MOURNING. 11 
 
 him once more, led me to the house where the body was 
 laid. The narrow space of the room was crowded ; about 
 two hundred women were sitting and standing around, 
 singing mourning songs to doleful and monotonous airs. 
 They were so huddled together that for a while I could not 
 distinguish the place of the corpse. At last some moved 
 aside, and behold ! the body of my friend. 
 
 It was seated in a chair. 
 
 It was dressed in a black tail-coat and a pair of pantaloons. 
 
 It had several strings of beads about the neck. 
 
 Altogether, it was a ghastly sight, though the pallid face 
 of death cannot be seen in the negro. 
 
 As I stood looking, filled with solemn thoughts, in spite of, 
 or rather because of, perhaps, the somewhat ludicrous con- 
 trasts about me, the mother of Tonda approached. 
 
 She threw herself at the feet of her dead son, and begged 
 him to speak to her once more. 
 
 And then, when the poor corpse did not answer, she uttered 
 a shriek, so long, so piercing, such a wail of love and grief, 
 that the tears came into my eyes. Poor African mother ! 
 she was literally as one sorrowing without hope ; for these 
 poor people count on nothing beyond the present life. For 
 them there is no hope beyond the grave. " All is done," they 
 say, with an inexpressible sadness of conviction that some- 
 times gave me a heartache. Truly, it is worth while to bear 
 words of comfort and promise to such as these. 
 
 As I left the hut the wailing recommenced. It would be 
 kept up by the women, who are the ofEcial mourners on these 
 occasions, till the corpse was buried. Then the family and 
 friends would lay aside their ornaments for many months, 
 would -refrain from dancing and all manner of merry-making, 
 till at last all is forgotten again. 
 
 I made preparations for a long journey, in which I intended 
 to explore the Muni to its head-waters ; to cross, if possible, 
 the Sierra del Crystal mountain, and see what kind of country 
 and what manner of people were to be found there. 
 
 My voyage was to be made alone, so far as white com- 
 panions were concerned. Mbango, a chief or head-man 
 among the Corisco people, was engaged to accompany me, to 
 
12 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. III. 
 
 introduce me to a friend of his, an influential king on the 
 Muni. 
 
 We set out in Mhango's canoe on the 27th of July. The 
 canoe was hewn out of a single tree. My crew consisted of 
 twelve black fellows, besides Mbango, all armed with guns. 
 I foresaw that, from the dread all the coast natives have of 
 the cannibal tribes said to be living in the interior, I should 
 have difficulty in carrying all my baggage. I therefore 
 determined not to encumber myself with supplies of pro- 
 visions or anything else that could be spared. My outfit 
 consisted only of the following articles : — A chest containing 
 100 fathoms of prints, 19 pounds of white beads, a quantity 
 of small looking-glasses, fire-steels and flints, a quantity of 
 leaf tobacco. In addition to which came mj' greatest depend- 
 ence, viz., 80 pounds of shot and bullets, 25 pounds of powder, 
 and my guns. 
 
 The day on which we sailed was beautiful. There was a 
 fine breeze, and we passed in rapid succession the islets 
 which dot the Bay of Corisco, Leval, Banian, and Big and 
 Little Alobi. I was in high spirits at the auspicious com- 
 mencement of my trip, when one of those peculiar detentions 
 occurred which arise out of the ill-regulated trade system of 
 Africa, and which would be laughable were they not 
 vexatious. 
 
 Mbango was a great trading man. Therefore Mbango had 
 debts owing him. Now Mbango's debtors, like most debtors 
 on the African coast, were not fond of paying, and I found 
 that Mbango made a practice of lying in wait for them, 
 seizing them, and robbing them of what they happened to 
 have with them, as a kind of new way to pay old delats. 
 
 Accordingly, as we were sailing along, my steersman kept 
 an unusually sharp look-out ahead. His care was presently 
 rewarded. We saw a large boat sailing along down toward 
 us carelessly, as though they had no enemies to dread. No 
 sooner, however, were the boatmen near enough to recognize 
 us than, with a little shout of surprise, they put about a-nd 
 sailed and paddled off in the utmost haste. 
 
 But Mbango also gave a little shoiit. He recognized in 
 the same moment in the other boat a veteran poor debtor of 
 
Chap. III. SETTLING OLD SCORES. 13 
 
 his. Turning our boat after tlio other, he urged his men to 
 paddle, and meantime shouted to the otliers to stop. 
 
 But the more he called " Stop ! " the harder they paddled 
 oflF. 
 
 Now our side became excited. Mbango called that he 
 would fire upon them. 
 
 This only frightened them more. 
 
 Our men seized their guns, and (slyly shaking the powder 
 out of the touch-holes, I must say to their credit) pointed 
 directlj' at the flying boat. 
 
 Now the women even seized paddles and plied them vigor- 
 ously. 
 
 Then our side fired a few random shots over the heads of 
 the flying debtors. Still they paddled on. 
 
 By this time, however, it became apparent that our 
 boat was the i'astest. Presently, indeed, we overtook the 
 other. 
 
 I had been sitting quietly watching the fun ; but now, as 
 we hauled alongside the enemy's boat, and I saw a good deal 
 of fierce blood up on both sides, I began to remonstrate. I 
 did not wish to see blood spilt, nor did I care to be upset in 
 the scufile ; but my voice was drowned in the uproar. A 
 desperate hand-to-hand fight began at once as we ranged 
 alongside. How we el^caped upsetting I do not yet under- 
 stand. I was wet through ; the canoe took in water — when 
 suddenly the other canoe again gave us the slip. 
 
 Now the chase began again. Again we shouted, and the 
 other side paddled as for dear life ; but it was of no avail. 
 Presently we again hauled alongside, and this time we made 
 fast. Then came another fight, in the midst of which the 
 boatmen, seeing they were about to be overpowered, suddenlj' 
 leaped into the water and swam off. Mbango caught two of 
 them, and took, besides, a woman prisoner ; then coolly turned 
 on his course again, saying to me with a smile that he had 
 done a very good day's work. He explained that these people 
 had long owed him a quantity of bar-wood, for which he had 
 paid in advance, and, now that he had some of the party 
 prisoners, they would soon settle up. 
 
 About a mile from the mouth of the Muni are Big and 
 3 
 
14 BQUATOniAL AFRICA. Chap. HI. 
 
 Little Alobi, two small islets. The first has a few native 
 villages, ruled by King Mpapiny, who this day presented me 
 with, a chicken and a bunch of plantains, on which I made 
 my dinner. In return I gave his negro majesty some heads 
 of tobacco. 
 
 Here we remained over night, I sleeping ashore, while 
 Mbango's favourite slave man kept watch over the boat. 
 
 The following morning several Muni Kiver men came 
 down to see me, having heard that I was about to go up the 
 river ; and in the afternoon we sailed with a favourable tide 
 for the village of Mbango's friend, Dayoko. We had a fail 
 wind, and the boat fellows availed themselves of it to lie 
 about and do nothing, which they know how to do perfectly. 
 These canoes do not sail on the wind at all ; but before it, 
 with their sails of country matting, they make very good 
 headway. 
 
 Yesterday I measured our canoe — thirty-five feet long, 
 three feet wide, and about three-and-a-half feet deep ; made, 
 as before said, out of one immense tree. The Muni, the river 
 which I was now to ascend, empties its waters into the Bay 
 of Corisco, in lat. 1° 2' N., and long. 9° 33'. It is formed by 
 the confluence of three other streams, the Ntongo, a stream 
 of forty miles length, whose course is S.W. by W. ; the 
 Ntambounay, which runs an easterly course for thirty miles, 
 and then turns to the south-west fur forty miles more, when 
 it disappears in the mountains ; and the Noya, which runs 
 from its rise sixty miles to the north-east, and then west for 
 twenty miles more. The Ntambounay and the Noya both 
 have their sources in the Sierra del Crystal. Their banks 
 are sparsely populated by various tribes, speaking different 
 dialects. The Muni is, like most of the rivers of the coast, 
 bounded by mangrove swamps ; but near the mouth, where 
 we sailed to-day, the highlands were visible in the back- 
 ground, and made up a picturesque scene. The point forming 
 one side of the bank at the mouth is high land, and on it 
 several Shekiani villages are located, which look very pretty 
 from the river. 
 
 As we ascended the river the banks became more swampy ; 
 and, at the distance of seventeen miles from the mouth, we 
 
Chap. III. THE MUNI MANGROVE SWA31FS. 15 
 
 came to a beautiful little island, formed by the junction of 
 the Ntongo with the Muni. 
 
 Some miles above the mouth of the Ntongo, the Ndina 
 empties its sluggish waters into theJlfwni. The Ndina is but 
 a swampy creek, overrun with mangrove jungles, back of 
 which are to be found some villages, to which the well-gTiided 
 traveller is led by native paths which no one but an ex- 
 perienced woodman would perceive. It was the Ndina 
 which we were now to ascend. As the tide was against us, 
 and was stronger than the wind, we put down our sail, 
 which had carried us along thus far, and the crew took to 
 their paddles. 
 
 When we had pulled about twelve miles up the creek, 
 through a continuous mangrove swamp, in which the sluggish 
 current of the river often lost it.self, I saw that my men 
 began to look uneasy. Presently it leaked out that they had 
 lost their reckoning. They had thought ere now to have 
 arrived at Dayoko's village — our destination — and began to 
 be discouraged. 
 
 So here was a pleasant prospect of passing the night in the 
 swamp, where we were like to be eaten up by mosquitoes, 
 whose buzz was already noisy, and whose sharp bills began 
 to make themselves felt thus early in the afternoon. 
 
 In the midst of our perplexity a Mbenga boat came down 
 the stream, and, on inquiry, its crew told us that Dayoko's 
 village was yet a considerable way off. They gave us, how- 
 ever, the right direction — an important matter, as in the 
 approaching gloom we were like to glide out of the main 
 channel into some of the numerous side " reaches," or bayous, 
 which lead in from the main stream. Thus encouraged, the 
 men again took to their paddles, and, to show their joy, began 
 to sing. 
 
 Presently we came to a very small collection of huts ; and 
 here I asked a fellow standing on the bank to guide iis up to 
 Dayoko's. He was ready to do so, but seeing probably thiit 
 I was anxious to get ahead, thought to make a good baigain 
 with me. He wanted two fathoms of cloth, two heads of 
 tobacco, and two pipes. This was unreasonable, and I at once 
 refused to have anything to do with him. 
 
16 EQVATOEJAL AFRICA. Chap. III. 
 
 Nothing gives these people so poor an opinion of a white 
 man as the discovery that they can victimize him in a bar- 
 gain ; and accordingly I was always careful to let no one get 
 the better of me even in trifles. Fortunately the moon 
 presently rose, and we were enabled to thread our way up 
 the crooked creek, and found by-and-by the mouth of a smaller 
 creek, at whose head Dayoko lives. 
 
 When we arrived the tide was out, and I had, in conse- 
 quence, to wade through the stinking mud-bank which lay 
 before, and, to some extent, defended the village. Such mud- 
 banks, which at low tide are dry, emit a most offensive smell, 
 and doubtless cause much sickness. 
 
 'I'he noise of our approach awakened the whole village, 
 and the men came down tcjwaids us, with their old trade 
 muskets loaded, and ready for a fight should it prove, as 
 oftens happens, a midnight raid of the enemy. These people 
 have the luck of Ishmael ; every man's hand seems against 
 them, and their hand is against every man. They are con- 
 stantly quarrelling, and scarce ever sleep without fear of a 
 hostile incursion. The treacherous enemy comes down upon 
 a sleeping village, and shoots the unsuspecting inhabitants 
 through the chinks in their bamboo houses, then escapes 
 under cover of the darkness. This is the style of warfare all 
 over this part of Africa. 
 
 They were greatly rejoiced when they found us to be their 
 friends the Mbenga. Visions of " trade " began to loom before 
 them ; they opened their arms, set up a shout of gladness, 
 and immediately conducted us in state through the village to 
 the house generally set apart in every considerable negro 
 town for strangers. 
 
 Here a great fire was kindled, and presently Dayoko him- 
 self came in, his eyes not half opened, for he had but just 
 waked up, and pretty soon the house was filled and surrounded 
 by most of the men and women of the village. 
 
 Then began the " salutation " — a tedious formality among 
 the African tribes. All the chief men of Dayoko, together 
 with himself and his wives, sat round the fire, and, when all 
 was hushed, Mhango, our head-man, began his oration. In 
 this it is required that every most minute adventure and 
 
Chap. IV KINO DAYOKO. 17 
 
 incident of tlie voyage up river shall be alluded to, and thus 
 a catalogue made of everything that has happened. The 
 speaker delivers himself in short sentences. All sit round 
 frilent and open-mouthed, and at intervals the chief men give 
 little grunts of approbation. At last all was told, and, to my 
 great satisfaction, Mbango sat down. 
 
 Immediately all ceremony was dropped ; every man carried 
 off his friend to have a talk about trade, night seeming no 
 objection, and the women began to prepare some food, of 
 which I stood in much need. I sat down before an immense 
 basket of boiled plantains and a few boiled fish, and made a 
 very hearty meal. This ended, I was shewn to my place in 
 the house assigned me for sleeping, when I was glad enough 
 to wrap myself in my mosquito-netting and sleep till day- 
 break. 
 
 CHAPTEK IV. 
 
 A kin<; in Africa — Jealousy of the natives in regard to trade — Dayok o 
 wants to keep me — Appearan'-e of Mbousha — Death of a wizard — 
 Departure for the interior — Asrent of tlie Muni — A Sliekiani village 
 — The Ntiimbounay and Noonday livers — Mbene village — A new 
 plantation — Reception by King Mbene — Oifer of a wife. 
 
 Mt first business on the following day was to talk to Dayoko 
 about my expedition into the interior ; to ask his permission 
 to go, and obtain from him an escort. 
 
 A stranger going into an African village and seeing the 
 chief or king living in a manner as simple and as needj- as 
 any of his subjects, would little expect that such a king 
 possesses great authority in his own tribe, and wields great 
 influence among his neighbours. Dayoko, for instance, was 
 chiefly remarkable as the oldest living man in the village. 
 He was a trader like the rest, a beggar like the rest, and was 
 very glad to accept from me a propitiatory offering of an old 
 diess-coat which, having done duty for a whole winter in 
 New York, had been put away, with other cast-ofi" garments, 
 for this very purpose. 
 
18 EQV \TORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IV. 
 
 But Dayoko is the oldest and most influential chief among 
 the Mbousha tribe. His age gives him great authority among 
 his own people, and a judicious culture of the marriage rela- 
 tion has given the shrewd old fox no end of fathers-in-law in 
 every tribe within a hundred miles. Now, to have a father- 
 in-law in Africa means to have a friend in need, a man to 
 whom you can confidently send a bit of ivory or bar-wood to 
 sell, and vphom you call on in an emergency where he can 
 help you. In fact, the more -wives a man has the more power 
 he gains in this way, and women are chiefly valuable because 
 by their means amicable and commercial relations are culti- 
 vated and subsist between the tribes. Dayoko was already 
 an old man. He had begun to marry when quite young, had 
 married, right and left, all about him ever since, and was 
 now related to one or two great men in every tribe which 
 he could by any means reach. Thus he promised to prove a 
 most useful ally to mo. 
 
 Though Dayoko's palace was no bigger than the hut of any 
 of his well-to-do subjects, I found, as was to be expected, that 
 he had more wives and more slaves than the others. And I 
 (bund, too, that his voice in the councils was of great weight, 
 and that, in certain cases, he possessed a veto power which 
 rendered him supreme. 
 
 My first aim was to convince everybody that I did not want 
 to trade. 
 
 Having established this point, I called Dayoko into my 
 house and gave him the present with which a negotiation is 
 generally opened. I gave him the coat before mentioned, 
 aliout twenty yards of cotton cloth, some powder, some look- 
 ing-glasses for his wives, and some gun-flints. 
 
 His majesty accepted graciously all my oifering. 
 
 'J'hen I spoke of going into the Fan or cannibal country. 
 
 Dayoko thought my project impossible. 
 
 I would die on the way, and he should have my death on 
 his soul — a consideration which seemed to affect him greatly. 
 
 I should be murdered by the cannibals and eaten. 
 
 There was war on the river, and the tribes would not let 
 mo pass. 
 
 And .so on 
 
Chap. IV. PUErARATIONS FOR A START. 19 
 
 Seeing that I exhibited no signs of repentance, the ohi 
 sinner turned on a new tack. His country was full of beasts 
 and birds. Why not hunt here ? and he would give me as 
 many men as I wanted. 
 
 Finally, I told him, with a great show of firmness, that go 
 I would, if not with his people, then with some one else. 
 
 Hereupon he relented, fearing probably that I would leave 
 him, and that thus he should not make so much out of me as 
 he calculated. 
 
 It is as well to add that I did not let any of his fellows 
 peep into my chest. They are all greedy, and think that 
 eveiy white man is by nature a Crossus, and owner of untold 
 wealth in cloth, looking-glasses, gun- flints, powder, and 
 tobacco. 
 
 It was at last determined that I should go under Dayoko's 
 protection. So on the third day after my arrival I sent my 
 Mbenga men back, and was now left alone among my new 
 friends. I am to wait for a party going to Mbene's people, 
 who lived farther up river, and in whose charge Dayoko pro- 
 poses to put me. If they do not come, I shall get an escort 
 of his Mbousha men. 
 
 Meantime, numbers of the neighbouring tribes come daily 
 to see me. Most of these have never seen a white man before, 
 and are filled with astonishment at my long hair, at my 
 white skin — -it is really tanned a veiy dark brown by this 
 time — and at the clothes I wear. They stand about me in 
 such crowds that often I am half-suffocated with the stench 
 which their uncleanly bodies give out. 
 
 While waiting, I amused myself with hunting. 
 
 I have still to wait for the people Dayoko promises. This 
 will make some detention, as they are here on agricultuTal 
 intents, and the men are out all day cutting trees, and the 
 women clearing the ground ; everything is busy bustle. 
 This is the dry season, and now all planting must be done, 
 for in a few weeks the rains come on, and then it is too late. 
 
 The dry season is delightful in Africa. It is the season of 
 flowers, of birds — who flit through bushes at all hours, and 
 charm one with their meteor-like flight — of everything 
 pleasant. 
 
20 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IV. 
 
 These Mbouslia look very much, like the Shekiani people. 
 They have the usual negro features, and are of medium 
 height. They are less warlike than the Shekianis, but quite 
 as superstitious and cruel, as I had occasion to know. I 
 heard one day, by accident, that a man had been appre- 
 hended on a charge of causing the death of one of the chief 
 men of the village. I went to Dayoko, and asked about 
 it. He said yes, the man was to be killed ; that he was a 
 notorious wizard, and had done much harm. 
 
 So I begged to see this terrible being. 
 
 I was taken to a rough hut, within which sat an old, old 
 man, with wool white as snow, wrinkled face, bowed form, 
 and shrunken limbs. His hands were tied behind him, and 
 his feet were placed in a rude kind of stocks. This was the 
 great wizard. Several lazy negroes stood guard over him, 
 and from time to time insulted him with opprobrious epithets 
 and blows, to which the poor old wretch submitted in 
 silence. He was evidently in his dotage. 
 
 I asked him if he had no friends, no relations, no son, or 
 daughter, or wife to take care of him. He said sadly, " No 
 one." 
 
 Now, here was the secret of this prosecution. They were 
 tired of taking care of the helpless old man, who had lived 
 too long, and a charge of witchcraft by the greegree man 
 was a convenient pretext for putting him out of the way. I 
 saw at once that it would be vain to try to save him. 
 
 I went, however, to Dayoko, and argued the case with him. 
 I tried to explain the absurdity of charging a harmless old 
 man with supernatural powers ; told him thaf. God did not 
 permit witches to exist ; and iinally made an offer to buy the 
 old wretch, offering to give some pounds of tobacco, one or 
 two coats, and some looking-glasses for him — goods which 
 would have bought me an able-bodied slave. 
 
 Dayoko replied that for his part he would be glad to save 
 him, but that the people must decide ; that they were much 
 excited against him ; but that he would, to please me, try to 
 save his life. 
 
 During the night following I heard singing all over the 
 town all night, and a great uproar. Evidently they were 
 
Chap, IV. DEATH OF A WIZARD. 21 
 
 preparing themselves for tlie murder. Even these savages 
 cannot kill in cold blood, but work themselves into a frenzy 
 of excitement first, and then rush oif to do the bloody- 
 deed. 
 
 Early in the morning the people gathered together, with 
 the fetich-man in their midst. His blood-shot eyes glared in 
 savage excitement as he went around from man to man 
 getting the votes to decide whether the old man should die. 
 
 In his hands he held a bundle of herbs, with which he 
 sprinkled three times those to whom he spoke. Meantime a 
 man was stationed on the top of a high tree, whence he 
 shouted from time to time, in a loud voice, " Jocoo ! Jocoo!" 
 at the same time shaking the tree strongly. 
 
 " Jocoo " is devil among the Mbousha, and the business of 
 this man was to keep away the evil spirit, and to give rotice 
 to the fetich-man of his ajiproach. 
 
 At last the sad vote was taken. It was declared that tlie 
 old man was a most malignant wizard ; that he had already 
 killed a number of joeople ; that he was minded to kill many 
 more, and that he must die. No one would tell me how he 
 was to be killed, and they proposed to defer the execution till 
 my departure, which I was, to tell the truth, rather glad of. 
 The whole scene had considerably agitated me, and I was 
 willing to be spared the end. Tired and sick at heart, I lay 
 down on my bed about noon to rest and compose my spirits 
 a little. After a while I saw a n}an pass my window, almost 
 like a flash, and after him a horde of silent but infuriated 
 men. They ran toward the river. 
 
 Then, in a little while, I heard a couiile of sharp, piercing 
 cries, as of a man in great agonj', and then all was still as 
 death. 
 
 I o-ot up, guessing the rascals had killed the jDoor old man, 
 and turning my steps toward the river, was met by the crowd 
 returning, every man armed with axe, knife, cutla.^s, or spear, 
 and these weapons, and their own hands and arms and bodies, 
 all sprinkled with the blood of their victim. In their frenzy 
 they had tied the poor wizai'd to a log near the river-bank, 
 and then deliberately hacked him into many pieces. They 
 finished by splitting open his skull and scattering the brains 
 
22 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IV. 
 
 in the water. Then ihey returned, and, to see their be- 
 havimir, it woukl have seemed as though the country had 
 just been delivered from a great cuise. 
 
 These Africans suppose that no cruelty is too great to 
 practise upon a wizard; and this kind of legalised murder, 
 though it temporarily excites their passions, does not seem to 
 afflict them with any remorseful feelings at all. 
 
 The following day we were to start for the interior. 
 Dayoko gave me two of his sons to be of my party — a pi( ce 
 of real good luck for me. Also, he sent messages to all the 
 neighbouring tribes to command good treatment for me. 
 
 The men asked to be paid before we started — a dangerous 
 practice, as they are likely to run away. But as they were 
 Dayoko's men, and he had treated me well, I thought best to 
 agree. They are real extortioners. I had to pay for canoes, 
 for mat sails, for paddles, for every least thing necessary for 
 the outfit; and every fathom of cloth or string of beads that 
 could be got from me on any pretext I was relieved of. Then, 
 to make them happier, I went to their wives, who had all 
 been verj' kind to me, and gave each some tobacco to solace 
 her in her husband's absence. 
 
 At last, and just before we were to start, when all was 
 ready and the men were gathered, I had again to assure 
 Dayoko that I did not at all intend to trade, but only to 
 hunt for the gorilla, and visit the mountains and their 
 inhabitants. 
 
 So at last we were off. My party consisted of two sons of 
 Dayoko, myself, and several men to carry my chests and guns. 
 Mbene, the Mbondemo chief, for whose place we are bound, 
 is to take me into the heart of the Sierra del Crystal, and 
 then " perhaps we shall cross over beyond." 
 
 We started in canoes, and paddled up a creek which led 
 into the Muni. The course of the stream was dotted and 
 interrupted by many small islands, the shores of which were 
 bordered with graceful palms. Evidently we had got out of 
 the dull and dreary region of mangrove swamps. 
 
 Towards night we reached a Shekiani village, where we 
 had to stop all night. It was a most uncomfortable night. 
 I never saw natives so excited as were these savages at the 
 
Chap. IV. STAUT FOR THE INTEKIUR. 23 
 
 appearance of my chests. Their cupidity was excited by 
 what they thought must bo fabulous riches in my poshossion, 
 and I was told' at once by a head-uiau that I could not pass 
 to the interior without paying to this Shekiani town a 
 tribute of six shirts, 100 fathoms of cloth, three great-coats, 
 and a great quantity of looking-glasses, files, and beads, etc. 
 
 As the excitement seemed to grow the longer I stayed, I 
 ordered my men to lie in my hut, thinking that the fear of 
 killing members of a friendly tribe might deter them from 
 firing in upon me during the night. I lay quietly down, 
 with my double-barrelled gun by my side, ready for instant 
 action, fully resolved to sell my life at as dear a rate as 
 possible. Meantime, Dayoko's sons went out to palaver with 
 the chief. 
 
 I did not sleep a wink all night. All night the crowd 
 surrounded my house, talking, shouting, singing, and in the 
 greatest excitement. At last, about four o'clock, things be- 
 came a little quieter, and towards daylight those who were 
 not asleep were still. 
 
 As early as I could go out I called on the king, and told 
 him that my chests contained only powder, shot, and other 
 heavy things necessary for my joiirney ; and also I gave his 
 majesty a few fathoms of cloth, and distributed a few leaves 
 of tobacco among his big men ; at which all were much 
 satisfied. They asked for rum, but that I never give to 
 these natives, and so refused of course. Finally we left 
 them, many of the people following us along the river, and 
 wishing us good luck and speedy return. 
 
 We left our large canoe at the Shekiani village, and passed 
 up the Ntambounay into the Noon' 'ay Eiver, making in this 
 day, Tuesday, August 19th, a toilsome journey of twenty- 
 nine miles, twelve of which were on the Noonday. 
 
 The landscape continued beautiful on the Ntambounay. 
 The palms lining the river-banks, and the numerous small 
 islands which stud its smooth and glass-like bosom, the 
 occasional gazelles which started away from the water- side as 
 our canoe swept into sight, the shrill cries of various monkeys 
 gazing at us in astonishment and terror, the clear sky and 
 the magnificent solitude of these forests which surrounded us. 
 
24 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. IV 
 
 and tlirough the trees of whicli we saw only at considerable 
 intervals the smoke curling up which announced a village 
 hid in the wilderness : all this was a constant delight to every 
 sense. 
 
 As we were sailing lazily along, I espied two eagles sitting 
 on some high trees about eighty yards off. Willing to give 
 my fellows a taste of my quality, I called their attention to 
 the birds, and then brought both down with my double- 
 barrel. They could hardly believe their eyes for surprise, 
 such shooting being almost miraculous to them. When they 
 had got a little over their astonishment, I heard them say, 
 " Ah ! if he had fought those Shekiani fellows last night, 
 how many he loould have killed ! " 
 
 In the far distance the ranges of the Sierra del Crystal 
 could be seen, the second and higher range rising above the 
 first. The river we were ascending seemed to abound in fish, 
 which jumped frequently out of the water in pursuit of their 
 insect prey ; and the bright-blue kingfishers shot across the 
 water hither and thither, breaking the quiet with their shrill 
 screams. 
 
 As we got higher up the Noonday the stream became 
 naiTow, and finally almost dwindled away. Part of its 
 course lay through a tangled thicket or jungle of aloe-trees, 
 whose sharp thorns tore our clothes, and wounded me so 
 that I was covered with blood. We had here a fair sample 
 of African " river " travel. The aloe-jungle grew, in many 
 places, right into the narrow stream, and so filled it up that, 
 had I not seen it, I should never have believed that a canoe 
 could pass through. In several places we had to get out 
 and carry the canoe over fallen trees which entirely barred 
 our progress, and all througli it was a battle with the jungle, 
 and a passage through a swamp rather than fair navigation. 
 Yet this is the only highway of this country, by which the 
 natives bring all their ivory, ebony, and india-rubber, etc., 
 to the coast ; for even this is better than travelling through 
 the almost impenetrable jungle on foot, in which case their 
 poor women have to bear the heavy loads on theit shoulders. 
 
 Dark came on before we had reached Mbene's town, which 
 was the nearest settlement, and I had the ugly prospect 
 
Chap. IV. MAKING PLANTATIONS. 25 
 
 before me of passing the night- in this deadly swamp. For- 
 tunately I had fallen in, at the Shekiani town, with a son of 
 King Mbene ; and this good fellow, now, seeing my men 
 wearied out and unable to go farther, volunteered to hurry 
 on to his father's town and bring assistance. How far it 
 was we knew not ; but he went off. 
 
 We waited an hour, but no help arrived. Then I sent out 
 two of my men to meet the party and hurry them on. Two 
 hours more passed, and I had begun to despair of help, when 
 loud shouts ringing through the woods gave us notice of the 
 approach of our friends ; and presently rushed in among us 
 King Mbene himself, his face radiant with smiles, and shout- 
 ing a welcome to me. He was followed by a large party of 
 men and women, who took up my boxes and other things. 
 Mbene took one of my guns, and, thus relieved, wo hurried 
 on to the town or encampment of my royal friend, which 
 proved to be about six miles oif. 
 
 The people had been heie such a little while that they had 
 not had time to cut a road to the river, so that the few miles 
 we traversed from the river-side were of the roughest. 
 Happily, elephants are plentiful hereabouts, and when we 
 could we walked in their huge tracks — the rushing of a herd 
 effecting quite a clearing in the woods, though everything 
 grows up again with marvellous rapidity. 
 
 I expected to come to a town. My astonishment was great 
 when I found, instead of the usual plantations of plantain- 
 trees which surround the collection of huts which make up 
 an African village, an immense mass of timber thrown down 
 helter-skelter, as though a hurricane had passed through this 
 part of the forest. It appeared tliat Mbene's people had their 
 village at some distance off, but came here to make new 
 plantations, and this was their way of making a clearing. 
 It is the usual way among these tribes. The men go into 
 the forest and choose a site for the plantation ; then cut down 
 the trees in any way, just as luck or fancy may direct ; let 
 everything lie till the dry season has sufficiently seasoned 
 the great trees, when they set iire to the whole mass, burn it 
 up, and on its site the women then plant their manioc, maize, 
 and plantains. 
 
26 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. IV. 
 
 It was only with the greatest difficulty, and with many 
 tears from thorns and trijjs from interposing bonghs, that I 
 got through this barrier, than which they could not have 
 made a better wall of defence for their village. For, once 
 get an enemy entangled in such a piece of ground, and they 
 conld pepper him at their convenience, without fear of 
 retaliation. 
 
 At last, when my patience was entirely gone, and my few 
 clothes were literally hanging in ribbons about me, we 
 arrived at the camp. Here we were received in grand 
 African style. Guns were fired, the people shouted and 
 danced, everybody was as jolly as though everybody's 
 brother had just come back rich, and I was immediately 
 installed under a shed, whither the king graciously followed 
 me with a present — very welcome indeed — of a goat and 
 some bunches of plantains. 
 
 The plantain is the bread of all these tribes. Lucky would 
 they be if they always had such bread to eat ; but Iheir 
 thriftless habits leave them without even the easily-cultivated 
 plantain, and force them to eke out a wretched subsistence 
 from the wild roots, nuts, and berries which are found in 
 the forests. 
 
 Mbene's village or encampment is situated at the foot of 
 the first granite-range of the Sierra del Crystal. The forest- 
 clad hill-sides were visible in tlie distance, and were to me a 
 delightful spectacle. The people had not as yet built them- 
 selves houses, but were living in camp, under rude sheds 
 composed of leaves spread thickly over four-forked sticks 
 planted in the ground. Here each head of a family gathered 
 Ills wives, children, and slaves about him, and rested in 
 safety and peace. One of the best constructed of these 
 sheds — one whcise stick stood upright, and whose leafy roof 
 was water-tight — was given me, and here I presently fell 
 soundly asleep, after first placing my two chests near my 
 head. 
 
 On rising the next morning, I found that we were really 
 not more than ten or fifteen miles from the hills. Yesterday 
 erening we could see two ranges ; the lower 500 or 600 feet 
 high, and the farther and higher from 2000 to 3000 feet high. 
 
Chap. IV. RECEPTION BV KING MBENE. 27 
 
 It is beyond these hills that the Fans — the cannibal tribe — 
 live, and the gorilla also has here his home. 
 
 Mbene excused himself for what he thought a shabby 
 reception of me. He said that his people had but just come 
 here ; that the men had been busy all the dry season cutting 
 down trees and clearing the woods. He said that they had 
 had very little to eat ; had been obliged to beg food of the 
 neighbouring tribes, and half the time had nothing to eat 
 but the nut of a sort of palm, of the sap of which they make 
 a kind of intoxicating drink. This nut is very bitter. It 
 is shaped like an egg, with rounded ends. To prepare it, it 
 is divested of its husk and soaked in water for twenty -four 
 hours, when it loses in part its exceedingly bitter taste, and 
 becomes tolerably palatable to a hungry man. Sometimes 
 hunger presses them to eat the nut without soaking it — I 
 have been compelled to do so— and it is then excessively 
 disagreeable. 
 
 I saw at once that it would not do for me to stay long 
 with Mbene, for I could not live as these people do ; and my 
 own stores, though I had a few crackers and sea-biscuits 
 left, would not last long, and ought to be kept for possible 
 sickness. 
 
 The negro tribes of this region are half the time in a 
 state of starvation by their utter improvidence. They seem 
 unable to cope with want, even with so fertile a country as 
 theirs to help them. Such encampments as this of Mbehe's 
 are common among all the tribes. Their agricultural opera- 
 tions are of the rudest kind, and, from the necessity of 
 seeking out the most fertile soil, as well as from general 
 habit, they prefer to go a distance from their villages to 
 clear and plant the ground. They never plant two successive 
 jears in the same place, and have, therefore, much labour in 
 clearing the ground every time. And, after all, it is not 
 uncommon for a village to lose all the fruits of its labours 
 by the incursions of a herd of elephants, who trample dovm 
 what they do not eat up. This happens especially to plantain 
 plantations. 
 
 The encampment is called an olaho. An olako is a romantic 
 scene to look at, particularly in the night, when every family 
 
28 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IV. 
 
 has its fire, near which its beds are made under the shades 
 before described. ■ But hunger spoils the prettiest romance ; 
 and I would have given up the camp willingly for a good 
 roast fowl or a sufficient supply of bread. 
 
 I told Mbene that as his place had no food- to offer I must 
 go farther ; explained to him my objects ; and finally it was 
 agreed that his brother Ncomo should accompany me with a 
 party as far as the Fan tribe. So much was settled without 
 difficulty ; but still several weeks passed ere my company was 
 ready to start. The king's wives supplied me with mats for 
 my bed, and under these I put dry leaves enough to make a soft 
 couch. On each side of the bed I built a fire to keep off the 
 mosquitoes., which were very troublesome, and thus I tried 
 to sleep at night. My days were spent in hunting. 
 
 I ought to add that, with usual African hospitality, my 
 kingly friend offered me a wife on my arrival at his place. 
 This is the common custom when the negroes wish to pay 
 respect to their guests, and they cannot understand why 
 white men should decline what they consider a mere matter 
 of course. 
 
 The mosquitoes penetrated through the smoke of my 
 fires, and bit me so that I could scarce sleep on the first 
 night after my arrival, and, to make matters yet more 
 unpleasant, the rain poured on me through a leaky place 
 in my leafy shelter. 
 
 I went to make arrangements with Ncomo for an early 
 start, and found that his women had gone out to beg food for 
 their trip. Mbene gave me a chicken for my dinner — an 
 unusual luxury. But I had to shoot my fowl before eating 
 it. The natives build no perches for their poultry, and the 
 consequence is that the chickens fly to roost in the topmost 
 branches of the trees, where they are safe from predatory 
 attacks of all kinds, either by their owners or by wild 
 beasts. 
 
 When I declined Mbene's offer of a " wife," he said, " Oh 
 well, she can at any rate wait on you and cook for you ; " 
 and so I am lucky enough to have a good cook. The negroes 
 use a good deal of pepper in their cooking, which I think 
 healthy for this climate. 
 
Chap. V. " MBENB'S WHITE MAN." 29 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Return of Dayoko's men — All alone — I am Mbcne's White Man — Different 
 tribes — An ideal country for an African — Mbomlemo houses — Poly- 
 gamy — Its political aspect — Causes of quarrels and wars — Departure 
 fur the cannibal country — Among the hills — A strike for higher pay 
 in the dense forest — Huts for travellers — A beautiful torrent — High 
 mountains — A big snake — Snakes as foorl — Discovery of gorilla 
 tracks — Fright of the women — Unsuccessful gorilla hunt — Return to 
 the camp — Superstitions about gorilla — Starvation — Coming to a 
 village. 
 
 To-day (August 20th, 1856), I sent back Dayoko's men, and 
 am now in Mbene's power and at his mercy. He is a very 
 good fellow, and I feel myself quite safe among his rough 
 but kindly people. I have found it the best way to trust 
 the people I travel among. They seem to take it as a 
 compliment, and they are proud to have a white man among 
 them. Even if a chief were inclined to murder, it would 
 not be profitable in such a case, for the exhibition of his 
 white visitor among the neighbouring tribes does more to 
 give him respect and prestige than his murder would. 
 
 They speak of me now as " Mbene's white man." Before, 
 I was " Dayoko's white man." The title has comfort and 
 safety in it, for it would be a great insult to Mbene for any 
 stranger to molest Ms white man, and it is to his own honour 
 to feed him as well as he can. 
 
 Of course, one must have tact enough to satisfy the chief 
 with occasional little presents, given him generally in private, 
 so that his people may not beg from him, and given, also, not 
 as though yon wished to conciliate — for it will not do to 
 show any symptoms of fear, however much cause there may 
 be — but apparently as friendly gifts. 
 
 This is the only safe way to get ahead in this country, and 
 I never found a chief whose " white man " I was for the time 
 but would help and further my plans and journeys. 
 
 Dayoko's men are to return to Mbene's camp in three 
 months to look for me, and I have to be back, if possible, by 
 that time. 
 
 The women have brought in a supply of the bitter palm 
 4 
 
30 EQVATOhtAL APriOA. Chap. V. 
 
 seeds and of other fruits, mostly more palatable than that 
 bitter abomination, but unfortunately not so plentiful. 
 Among these is a round nut the size of a large walnut, 
 containing three or four oily kernels, each of the size of a 
 peanut ; when these were roasted they were not disagreeable. 
 And there was a remarkable magnificent fruit which I never 
 saw before, resembling in general shape a bunch of grapes, 
 each grape olive-shaped, and the whole of a bright scarlet 
 colour. It was really a splendid sight to see these glowing 
 bunches hanging from the trunks of the trees which bear 
 them. The seed is larger than that of the olive ; the skin 
 not so thick as that ; and the pulp is quite juicy and of 
 a pleasant flavour. 
 
 The Mboiidemo tribe is allied to the Mhisho, Mbihi, Mbotisha, 
 Ibouay, Acoa, and Shelciani tribes. The speech of all these 
 tribes is nearly alike. They can all understand each other. 
 Also, they have the same general customs and superstitions, 
 and the same nomadiu habits. The Mhondenio live or have 
 their towns in the mountains of the interior east of Cape 
 Lopez, and in that tract of country which extends from north 
 of the Muni to the Moondah Eiver. 
 
 Mbene had moved his village twice, his present removal 
 making the third. I asked what reasons moved him to these 
 changes. The first time, he said, a man had died there, and 
 the place was " not good " after that. The second time he 
 was forced to move because they. had cut down all the palm- 
 trees, and could get no more mimho (palm-wine), a beverage 
 of which they are excessively fond, though they take no pains 
 to preserve the trees out of the soft tops of which it is made. 
 But these are very plentiful all over the country ; and it 
 seems easier for them to move than to take care of the trees 
 surrounding their settlements, useful as they are to them ; 
 for they furnish not only the wine they love, but the very 
 bitter nut I mentioned before, which often keeps them from 
 starvation. A country which has plenty of palm-trees, plenty 
 of game, a good river, and plenty of fish, is the ideal region of 
 a Mbondemo settler or squatter. 
 
 The Mbondemo houses are mostly of uniform size, generally 
 from twelve to fifteen feet long, and eight or ten feet wide. 
 
Chap. V. "SO MANY DOORS, SO MANY WIVES." 31 
 
 They are built on both sides of a long and tolerably wide 
 street, and invariably join each other. The chief's house 
 and the palavei-house are larger than the others. The ends 
 of tlie street are barricaded with stout sticks or palisades, 
 and at night the doors or gates of the village are firmly 
 closed, and persons approaching, if they cannot explain their 
 intentions, are remorselessly shot down or speared. The 
 houses have no windows, and doors only on the side towards 
 the street ; and when the door of the street is locked, the 
 village is, in fact, a fortress. As an additional protection, 
 however, they often cut down thorny brushwood and block 
 up the surrounding approaches ; and, also, they always locate 
 the village on the top of the highest hill they can find in 
 the region where, for the time being, they squat. All this 
 shows — what is the truth — that they are a quarrelsome, 
 though not a brave race. They are continually in hot water 
 with their neighbours, and never know when they are to 
 be attacked. 
 
 Within, the Mbondemo house is divided by a bark partition 
 into two rooms ; one the kitchen, wheie also everybody sits 
 or lies down on the ground about the fire ; the other the 
 sleeping apartment. This last is perfectly dark ; and here 
 are stowed their provisions and all their riches. To ascertain 
 how large a family any Mbondemo householder has, jou have 
 only to count the little doors which open into the various 
 sleeping apartments : " So many doors, so many wives," it 
 was explained to me. The houses are made of bark and a 
 kind of jointless bamboo, which is got from the trunk of a 
 particular palm. The strips are tied to posts set firmly into 
 the ground, with rope made from the vines of the forest. 
 The roofing is made of matting. The houses are neither so 
 large, so substantially built, nor so good-looking as those of 
 the Mpongwe. 
 
 To-day (21st) my men have been getting ready their guns 
 for enemies or game. The tribes of Africa have so many 
 petty causes of quarrel tliat they arc always in danger of 
 a fight. They are so bound together by ridiculous super- 
 stitions of witchcraft, and by the entangling alliances of 
 polygamy, and greatly also by their want of good faith in 
 
32 EQUATOniAL AFRICA. Chap. V. 
 
 trade, that no man can say where or why an enemy is 
 waiting for his life. 
 
 I have already spoken of the system of intermarriages by 
 which a chief gains in power and friends. But there are 
 other means of securing allies. For instance, two tribes are 
 anxious for a fight, but one needs more force. This weakling 
 sends one of its men secretly to kill a man or woman of 
 some village, living near but having no share in the quarrel. 
 The consequence is, not, as would seem most reasonable, that 
 this last village takes its revenge on the murderer, but, 
 strangely enough, that the murderer's people give them to 
 understand that this is done because another tribe has in- 
 sulted them, whereupon, according to African custom, the 
 two villages join, and together march upon the enemy. In 
 eifect, to gain a village to a certain side in a quarrel, that 
 side murders one of its men or women, with a purpose of 
 retaliation on somebody else. 
 
 A man pays goods or slaves for his wife, and regards her 
 therefore as a piece of merchandise. Young girls — even 
 children in arms — are married to old men for political effect. 
 The idea of love, as we understand it, seems unknown to 
 these people. The inhabitant of the sea-coast has no hesita- 
 tion in bartering the virtue of his nearest female relatives, 
 nor are the women averse from the trafBc, if only they be 
 well paid. 
 
 Adultery with a black man is punishable by fine among 
 all the tribes, and this law, which is strictly executed, is the 
 cause of a most singular state of things. Husband and wife 
 combine to rob some fellow with whom the woman pretends 
 to carry on an intrigue, making sure of being discovered by 
 the husband, who thereupon obtains a recompense suificient 
 to heal his wounded honour, and upon which he and his wife 
 and accomplice are able to live for some time. 
 
 Unlawful intercourse with the women of a neighbouring 
 tribe or village is the cause of nearly all the " palavers," and 
 wars, and fights in Africa. If a tribe wants to fight, they 
 make this the cause by getting one of their women to intrigue 
 with a man of the other tribe or village ; and even if they 
 do not want to fight, they are often forced into it. 
 
Ohah. V. WOMEN AS BEASTS OF BDEDEN. 33 
 
 Then the system of intermarrying involves half-a-dozen 
 tribes in the quarrel of two. Each chief calls on his i'athers- 
 in-law to assist, and thus the country is thrown into uproar; 
 property is unsafe, and becomes almost valueless to them; 
 agricultural operations are impeded, and whole villages 
 gradually disappear from the scene of contention, either by 
 migrating, starving out, or being killed out. 
 
 The women not only provide all the food, they are also 
 the beasts of burden in this part of Africa. My party from 
 Mbene's town consisted of Mbene's two sons, Miengai and 
 Maginda, a j'oung man named PmiUandai, and half-a-dozen 
 stout women to bear my heavy chests and other luggage, 
 and food for the journey. 
 
 We started at length on the morning of August 24th. 
 The natives had done what they could to gather food before- 
 hand for the trip, but the result, was poor enough. My own 
 supplies were by this time completely exhausted. The half- 
 dozen biscuits I had in reserve were for sickness or a great 
 emergency. Besides this, they had succeeded in getting 
 several large bunches of plantains and a good many of the 
 bitter palm-nuts, and that was all the commissariat. 
 
 I took with me 70 pounds of shot, 19 pounds of powder, and 
 10 pounds of arsenic for killing and preserving my specimens ; 
 also my chests, containing cloth, tobacco, beads, &o., to buy 
 food and give presents to the natives we should meet. I 
 made Miengai carry the shot, as the women had already 
 enough. But my men were all loaded with goods on their 
 own account, consisting of brass kettles, iron pots, jugs, &c., 
 and about 100 pounds cf salt, put up in little packages of 
 three or four pounds. 
 
 The packing of the women is a subject of great importance. 
 They carry their loads in heavy, rude baskets, suspended 
 down the back ; and it is necessaiy that these should be 
 carefully arranged, with three or four inches of soft tree- 
 fibre next to the back to prevent chafing. 
 
 When all was arranged — when everybody had taken leave 
 of all his friends, and come back half-a-dozen times to 
 take leave over again, or say something before forgotten — • 
 when all the shouting and ordering, and quarrelling were 
 
84 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. V. 
 
 done, and I had completely lost patience, we at last got 
 away. 
 
 In about five miles' travel we came to tlie banks of the 
 Noonday Eiver, which is here a narrow, but clear and beauti- 
 ful stream, so clear that I was tempted to shoot a fish of 
 curious shape I saw swimming along as we stood on the 
 bank. 
 
 I fired a charge of small shot into him ; but no sooner had 
 I pulled the trigger than I heard a tremendous crash on the 
 opposite bank, above six or seven yards across, saw some 
 small trees torn violently down, and then came the shrill 
 trumpetings of a party of frightened elephants. They had 
 been standing in dead silence on the opposite bank in the 
 jungle, whether watching us or not we could not tell. I 
 was sorry I fired, for we crossed the stream close by, and 
 might have killed one but for the fright they got, which 
 sent them out of our reach. 
 
 After crossing the Noonday, and travelling ten miles in a 
 north-east direction, we reached a range of granite hills, 
 which are a part of the Sierra del Crystal mountains. The 
 hills were very steep. I ate a few boiled plantains, then we 
 ascended the crooked and poorly-marked path up-hill, which 
 wound its devious course about immense boulders of granite 
 and quartz, which, scattered along the declivity, gave the 
 country a very strange look. 
 
 This range was about 600 feet high, and the summit 
 formed a table-land three miles long, which also was strewed 
 with the immense quartz and granite boulders. 
 
 Passing this table-land, we came to another tier of hills, 
 steeper and higher than the first, which also had to be sur- 
 mounted. In this kind of travelling I find that the natives 
 had a great advantage over me. They use their bare feet 
 almost as monkeys do theirs. Long practice enables them to 
 catch hold of objects with their toes, and they could jump 
 from rook to rock without fear of falling, while I, with thick 
 shoes on, was continually slipping. 
 
 We were yet on the first platemi when Miengai suddenly 
 made me a sign to keep very still. Ho and I were in advance. 
 I thought he had discovered a herd of elephants, or perhaps 
 
Chap. V. A NATIVE ENCAMPMENT. 88 
 
 a leopard. He cocked his gun, and I mine, and there we 
 stood for five minutes in perfect silence. Suddenly Miengai 
 sent a " hurrah " rolling through the forest, which was 
 immediately answered by shouts from many voices at no 
 great distance, but whose owners were hid from us by the 
 rocks and trees. Miengai replied with the fierce shout of 
 the Mbondemo warriors, and was again answered. Going a 
 little farther on, we came in sight of the encampment of a 
 large party, who proved to be some of Mbene's people just 
 returning from a trading expedition to the interior. 
 
 It was a curious picture. They lay encamped about their 
 fires to the number of about a hundred — young and old, men 
 and women ; some gray and wrinkled, and others babes in 
 arms. They had evidently travelled far, and were tired out. 
 They had collected india-rubber, and had in charge some 
 ivory, and were now about to take these goods to Mbene or 
 some other river chief, to be sent down from hand to hand to 
 the " white-man market." 
 
 Here even I noticed the cruel way in which the women are 
 obliged to work. The Mbondemo men lay about the fires, 
 handling their spears and guns, and talking or sleeping, 
 while the women were doing the cooking and making the 
 camp comfortable, and such of the children as could walk 
 were driven out to collect firewood for the night. 
 
 Being tired ourselves, we built our camp-fires near the 
 party, and I had the opportunity next day to see them get 
 under way. The men carried only their arms, and most of 
 them were armed to the teeth. The women and larger chil- 
 dren carried, in the usual baskets, suspended along the back, 
 the food — of which they seemed to have a good supply — the 
 ivory and india-rubber, and besides — still in the basket — 
 such of the babies as could by no means get along alone. 
 The old people were not exempt from light burdens, thongh 
 they bad to totter along with the help of long sticks. 
 
 The whole party were very thinly clothed, even for Africa. 
 They had with them an old chief, to whom they seemed to 
 pay much reverence, and he was constantly waited upon by 
 his wives, of whom ho seemed to have several with him. I 
 gave them r. little aalt, for which they seemed very grateful. 
 
36 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. V, 
 
 Next morning we broke up before daylight, after enting a 
 very scanty breakfast of a few cooked plantains. It rained 
 all day, and consequently we tramped all day in the mud. 
 wet through, and chilly. About noon wo met another large 
 party of travelling Mbondeiiio returning from the interior. 
 
 WBONDEMO MAN AND WOMAN, SHOWING MANNER OF CAUEYING CHILDREN 
 AND BUHDENS. 
 
 They had never seen a white man before, and stared at me 
 with all the eyes they had. I fear my appearance gave them 
 but a poor idea of white people. I was clothed in only 
 a blue drill shirt and trowsers, both wet, and the latter 
 muddy. They begged for gome tobacco "to warm WiQxa, 
 
Chap. V. A'TALArER." • 37 
 
 selves," and a few leaves whicli I gave them made them 
 perfectly happy. 
 
 Among this party were two fellows, named Ngolai and 
 Yeava, who were from Mbene's village, and well known to 
 Mbene's sons. These offered to go with us if we would give 
 them food, as theirs was nearly gone, and Miengai and 
 Maginda promising this much, they at once joined our party. 
 
 After a walk of about eighteen miles in the rain, through 
 thick woods, and over a rough hilly country (and in a general 
 direction of E.S.E.), we came to our camp, and to my delight 
 found very large and commodious huts ready for us. This 
 is a highway, it seems, of this country, though no signs of a 
 road are visible, and diffeient parties of traders had built 
 and kept up these very negt Hud comfortable sheds. 
 
 We built great fires and made ourselves comfortable. I 
 had three fires lit about my bod of brush, hung up my wet 
 clothes to dry, and, after comforting myself with a little 
 brandy, went to sleep in much more than usual snugness, 
 not knowing the "palaver" which was in store for me on 
 the morrow. 
 
 When we got up, much refreshed, my men came and said 
 they were tired, and would not go a step farther if I did not 
 pay them more cloth. 
 
 They seemed in earnest, and I was, as may be imagined, 
 in considerable trouble of mind. To return now, when I 
 had proceeded so far, was not to be thought of. To be left 
 alone would have been almost certain death, and to give 
 what they demanded was to set a bad precedent to my 
 guides. Finally, I determined to put on a bold front. I 
 went into the crowd, told them — pistols in hand — that I 
 should not give them any more cloth ; that neither could 
 I permit them to leave me, because their father, Mbene, had 
 given them to me to accompany me to tlie Fan tribe. So far, 
 I told them, they must go with me, or else— here I motioned 
 with my pistols — there would I'C war between us. But, I 
 added, if they were faithful, I would give each something 
 additional when the trip was done. 
 
 After a consultation among themselves, they finally said 
 that they were pleased with what 1 said, and were my friends. 
 
88 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. V. 
 
 Hereupon, with great lightness of hoart at my escape from 
 an ugly dilemma, I shook hands with thorn, and we set out 
 on the journey. 
 
 It was ten o'clock before we made a start on this day. We 
 were now approaching the second mountain-range of the 
 Sierra del Crystal, and passing through a wild country, 
 densely wooded, rough, and strewn along tho higher ground 
 with immense boulders, which gave an additional wildness 
 to the scene. Up, and up, and up wo struggled, through a 
 forest more silent than I recollect to have noticed in Africa 
 before. Not even the scream of a bird or tho shrill cry of a 
 monkey to break the dark solitude — and either would have 
 been welcome. 
 
 Nothing was heard but the panting breathings of our party, 
 who were becoming exhausted by tho ascent, till, at last, I 
 thought I heard a subdued roar as of a fall of v/'ater. It 
 grew plainer as we toiled on, and finally filled the whole air 
 with its grand rush ; soon turning a sharp corner of a declivity 
 and marching on a little way, the torient literally burst 
 upon our sight. It was an immense mountain-torrent dashing 
 down-hill at an angle of twenty-five or thirty degrees, for 
 not less than a mile right before us, like a vast, seething, 
 billowy sea. The river-course was full of the huge granite 
 boulders which lie about hero as though the Titans had been 
 playing at skittles in this country ; and against these the 
 angry waters dashed as though they would carry all before 
 them, and, breaking, threw the milky spray up to the very 
 tujis of the trees which grew along the edge. 
 
 Where we stood at the foot of the rapids the stream too 
 a winding turn down the mountain ; but we had the whole 
 mile of foaming rapid before us, seemingly pouring its mass 
 of waters down upon our heads. 
 
 These were the head-waters of the Ntambounay. 
 
 Drinking a few handfuls of its pure, clear, cool water, we 
 travelled onward, still up-hill and partly along the edge of 
 the rapids. In another hour we reached a clear space where 
 a Mbondemo village had once stood ; this was the summit. 
 
 From this elevation — about 5000 feet above the ocean 
 level — I enjoyed an unobstructed view as far as tho eye 
 
Chap. V. A SERPENT FEAST. 39 
 
 could reach. The hills we had surmounted the day before 
 lay quietly at our feet, seeming mere mole-hills. On all 
 sides stretched the immense virgin forests. And far away 
 in the east loomed the blue tops of the farthest range of the 
 Sierra del Crystal, and, as I strained my eyes toward those 
 distant mountains which I hojaed to reach, I began to think 
 how this wilderness would look if only the light of civiliza- 
 tion could once be fairly introduced among the black chil- 
 dren of Africa. I dreamed of forests giving way to planta- 
 tions of coffee, cotton, and spices ; of peaceful negroes going 
 to their contented daily tasks ; of farming and manufactures ; 
 of churches and schools ; and, luckily raising my eyes heaven- 
 ward at this stage of my thoughts, saw pendent from the 
 branch of a tree beneath which I was sitting an immense 
 serpent, evidently preparing to gobble up this dreaming 
 intruder on his domains. 
 
 My dreams of future civilization vanished in a moment. 
 Fortunately my gun lay at hand. I rushed out so as to " stand 
 from undei," and, taking good aim, shot my black friend 
 through the head. He let go his hold, and, after dancing 
 about a little on the ground, lay dead before me. He 
 measured a little over thirteen feet in length, and his fangs 
 proved that he was venomous. 
 
 And now that civilization of which I had mused so 
 pleasantly a few minutes before received another shock. My 
 men cut off the head of the snake, and, dividing the body 
 into proper pieces, roasted it and ate it on the spot ; and I — 
 poor, starved, but civilized mortal ! — stood by, longing for a 
 meal, but after a while I had to learn also how to eat snake 
 or starve. 
 
 When the snake was eaten, and I, the only empty-stomached 
 individual of the company, had sufficiently reflected on the 
 disadvantages of being bred in a civilized country, we began 
 to look about the ruins of the village near which we sat. A 
 degenerate kind of sugar-cane was growing on the very spot 
 where the houses had formerly stood, and I made haste to 
 pluck some of this and chew it for the little sweetness it had. 
 But, as we were plucking, my men perceived what instantly 
 threw us all into the greatest excitement. Here and there 
 
40 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. Y. 
 
 the cane was beaten down, torn up by the roots, and lying 
 about in fragments which had evidently been chewed. 
 
 I knew that these were fresh tracks of the gorilla, and joy 
 filled my heart. My men looked at each other in silence, and 
 muttered Nijuyla, which is as much as to say in Mpongwe 
 Nyina, or, as we say, gorilla. 
 
 We followed these traces, and presently came to the foot- 
 prints of the so-long-desired animal. It was the first time I 
 had ever seen these footprints, and my sensations were 
 indescribable. Here was I now, it seemed, on the point of 
 meeting face to face that monster of whose ferocity, strength 
 and cunning the natives had told me so much ; an animal 
 scarce known to the civilized world, and which no white 
 man before had "hunted. My heart beat till I feared its loud 
 pulsations, and my feelings were really excited to a painful 
 degree. 
 
 By the tracks it was easy to know that there must have 
 been several gorillas in company. We prepared at once 
 to follow them. 
 
 The women wore terrified, and we left them a good escort 
 of two or three men to take care of them and reassure them. 
 Then the rest of us looked once more carefully at our guns — 
 for the gorilla gives you no time to re-load, and woe to him 
 whom he attacks ! We were armed to the teeth. My men 
 were remarkably silent, as they were going on an expedition 
 of more than usual risk ; for the male gorilla is literally the 
 king of the African forest. 
 
 As we departed from the camp, the men and women left 
 behind crowded together, with fear written on their face. 
 Miengai, Makinda, and Ngolai set out in one party, and 
 myself and Teava formed another, for the hunt. We 
 determined to keep near each other, that in emergency we 
 might be at hand to help each other. And for the rest, 
 silence, coolness, and a sure aim were the only cautions to 
 be given. 
 
 As we followed the tracks we could easily see that there 
 were four or five of them ; though none appeared very large. 
 We saw where they had run along on all fours, the usual 
 mode of progression of these auinias ; and where, from time 
 
Chap. V. A GOHILLA HUNT. 41 
 
 to time, they had seated themselves to chew the canes they 
 had borne off. The chase began to be very exciting. 
 
 We had agreed to return to the women and their guards, 
 and consult upon final operations when we should have dis- 
 covered their probable cause ; and this was now done. To 
 make sure of not alarming our prey, we moved the whole 
 party forward a little way to where some leafy huts, built 
 by passing traders, served for shelter and con,cealment. And 
 having here stowed the women — who have a lively fear of 
 the terrible gorilla, in consequence of various stories current 
 among the tribes of women having been carried off into the 
 woods by the fierce animal — we prepared once more to set out 
 in chase, this time hopeful to get a shot. 
 
 Looking once more to onr guns, we started off. I confess 
 that I had never been more excited in my life. I had heard 
 of the terrible roar of the gorilla, of its vast strength, its 
 fierce courage, if, unhappily, only wounded by a shot. I 
 knew that we were about to pit ourselves against an animal 
 which even the leopard of these mountains fears. 
 
 We descended a hill, crossed a stream on a fallen log, and 
 presently approached some huge boulders of granite. Along- 
 side of this granite block lay an immense dead tree, and 
 about this we saw many evidences of the very recent presence 
 of the gorillas. 
 
 Our approach was very cautious. We were again divided 
 into two parties. Makinda led one and 1 the other. We 
 were to .surround the granite block behind which Makinda 
 expected the gorillas to be found. Guns cocked and in hand, 
 we advanced through the dense wood, which cast a gloom 
 even in mid-day over the whole scene. I looked at my men, 
 and saw plainly that they were in even greater excitement 
 than myself. 
 
 Slowly we pressed on through the dense brush, fearing 
 almost to breathe lest we should alarm the beasts. Makinda 
 was to go to the right of the rock, while I took the left. 
 Unfortunately, he circled it at too great a distance. The 
 watchful animals saw him. Suddenly I was startled by a 
 strange, discordant, half-human, devilish cry, and beheld 
 four young gorillas running towards the deep forests. We 
 
42 EQUATOlilAL AFHICA. Chap. V. 
 
 fired, but hit nothing. Then we rushed on in pursuit ; but 
 they knew the woods better than we. Once I caught a 
 glimpse of one of the animals again, but an intervening 
 tree sisoiled my aim, and I did not fire. We ran till we 
 were exhausted, but in vain. The alert beasts made good 
 their escape. When we could pursue no more we returned 
 slowly to our camp, where the women were anxiously ex- 
 pecting us. 
 
 As I saw the gorillas running — on their hind legs — they 
 looked fearfully like hairy men ; their heads down, their 
 bodies inclined forward, their whole appearance was like 
 men running for their lives. Take with this their awful 
 cry, which, fierce and animal as it is, has yet something 
 human in its discordance, and you will cease to wonder that 
 the natives have the wildest superstitions about these " wild 
 men of the woods." 
 
 In our absence the women had built large fires and pre- 
 pared the camp, which was not so comfortable as last night's, 
 but yet protected us from rain. I changed my clothes, which 
 had become wet through by the frequent torrents and 
 puddles we ran through in our eager pursuit, and then we 
 sat down to our supper, which had been cooked meantime. 
 
 As wo lay about the fire in the evening before going to 
 sleep the adventure of tlie day was talked over, and of course 
 there followed some curious stories of the gorillas. I 
 listened in silence to the conversation, which was not ad- 
 dressed to me, and was rewarded by hearing the stories as 
 they are believed, and not as a stranger would be apt to draw 
 them out by questions. 
 
 One of the men told a story of two Mbondemo women who 
 were walking together through the woods, when suddenly 
 an immense gorilla stepped into the path, and, clutching one 
 of the women, bore her off in spite of the screams and 
 struggles of both. The other woman returned to the village, 
 sadly frightened, and related the story. Of course, her com- 
 panion was given up for lost. Great was the surprise, 
 therefore, when, a few days afterward, she returned to her 
 home. She related that the gorilla had misused her, but 
 that she had eventually escaped from him. This and many 
 
Chap. V. GOMLLA StOBlES. 43 
 
 similar stories I subsequently found to he devoid of all 
 credit. 
 
 " Yes," said one of the raen, " that was a gorilla inhabited 
 by a spirit." Which explanation was received with a 
 general grunt of approval. 
 
 They believe, in all this country, that tlicre is a kind of 
 gorilla — known to the initiated by certain mysterious signs, 
 but chiefly by being of extraordinary size — which is the 
 residence of certain spirits of departed negroes. Such goiillas, 
 the natives believe, can never be caught or killed ; and, also, 
 they have much more shrewdness and sencethan the common 
 animal. In fact, in these " possessed " beasts, it would seem 
 that the intelligence of man is united with the strengtli and 
 ferocity of the beast. No wonder the poor African dieads so 
 terrible a being as his imagination thus conjures up. 
 
 One of the men told how, some years ago, a party of 
 gorillas were found in a cane-field tying up the sugar-cane in 
 regular bundles, preparatory to carrying it away. The 
 natives attacked them, but were routed, and several killed, 
 while others were carried oft' prisoners by the gorillas ; but 
 in a few days they returned home uninjured, with this horrid 
 exception : the nails of their fingers and toes had been torn 
 oif by their captors. 
 
 Some years ago a man suddenly disappeared fiom his 
 village. It is probable that he was carried off by a tiger ; 
 but as no news came of him, the native superstition invented 
 a cause for his absence. It was related and believed that, as 
 he walked through the wood one day, he was suddenly 
 changed into a hideous large gorilla, which was often pur- 
 sued afterwards, but never killed, though it continually 
 haunted the neighbourhood of the village. 
 
 Here several spoke up and mentioned names of men now 
 dead whose spirits were known to be dwelling in gorillas. 
 
 Finally, the story which is current among all the tribes who 
 at all know the gorilla was rehearsed, viz. : that this animal 
 lies in wait in the lower branches of trees, watching for 
 people who go to and fro ; and, when one passes sufficiently 
 near, grasps the luckless fellow with his powerful feet, and 
 draws him up into the tree, where he quietly chokes him. 
 
44 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. V. 
 
 Many of. the natives agree, I say, in ascribing to the 
 animal this trait of lying in wait for his enemies and draw- 
 ing them up to him by his " lower hands," as they may 
 properly be called. But I have little doubt that this story 
 is incorrect. Of course, the secluded habifs of this animal, 
 which lives only in the darkest forests, and carefully shuns 
 all approach to man, help to fill the natives with curious 
 superstitions regarding it. 
 
 This day we travelled fifteen miles, ten of which were 
 easterly, and five to the south-east. 
 
 The next day we went out on another gorilla-hunt, but 
 found no traces at all. 
 
 We rose early next morning, and trudged oif breakfastless. 
 There was not a particle of food among us. We crossed 
 several streams, and travelled all day through a forest of an 
 almost chilling gloom and solitude, ascending, in the midst, 
 the sfeepest and highest hill we have so far met with. I 
 suppose it to be part of the third range of the Sierra. 
 
 I felt vexed at the thoughtlessness of my men, who ought 
 to have provided food enough to last us. But I ought to 
 praise the poor fellows, for, though long hungry themselves, 
 they gave me the greater part of the few nuts they found. 
 
 This is one of the hardest days' travel I had accomplished. 
 We made twenty miles in a general direction of east, though 
 some deduction^must be made for deviations from a straight 
 line. 
 
 The forest seemed deserted. Not a bird even to kill. We 
 heard the chatter of a few monkeys, but sought in vain to 
 get near them for a shot. 
 
 The next morning I woke up feeble, but found that the 
 fellows had killed a monkey, which, roughly roasted on the 
 coals, tasted delicious. To add to our satisfaction, Makinda 
 presently discovered a bee-hive in the hollow of a tree. We 
 smoked the bees out and divided the honey, which was full 
 of worms, but was nevertheless all eaten up. We were so 
 nearly famished that we could scarce wait for the hive to be 
 emptied. No sooner was the honoy spread out on leaves and 
 laid on the grass, than everyone of the men was ready to 
 clutch the biggest piece he could lay his hand on and eat 
 
Chap. V. WE AFFROACII THE FAN COUNTRY. 45 
 
 away. There might have been a fight, to prevent which I 
 interposed, and divided the whole sweet booty into equal 
 shares, reserving for myself only a share with the rest. This 
 done, everyone — myself included — at once sat down and 
 devoured honey, wax, dead bees, worms, dirt, and all, and 
 our only sorrow was that we had not more. 
 
 We had a hard time getting through old elephant tracks, 
 which were a better road then the path through the jungle. 
 Saw no animals, but met with several gorilla-tracks. 
 
 Towards two o'clock the men began to be very jolly, which 
 I took to be a sign of our approach to a village. Presently 
 they shouted, and, looking uf) towards the face of a hill 
 before us, I saw the broad leaves of the plantain, the fore- 
 runner of an African town. Since we left Mbene's town 
 these were the first human habitations we had met with, and 
 I was not a little refreshed by the sight. 
 
 But alas ! as we approached we found no one coming out 
 to meet us, as is the hospitable way in Africa, and when we 
 got to the place we found it entire! j^ deserteil. It was an 
 old town of Mbene's people. Presently, however, some 
 Mbicho people living near, relatives of Mbene's, came to see 
 us, and gave us some plantains. But I could not get what 
 I needed most — a fowl. 
 
 The Mbichos were in great amazement. None had ever 
 seen a white man befote. They thought me very singular. 
 
 We spent the evening in our houses drying and warming 
 ourselves. It was much better than the forest, even though . 
 it was only a deserted town. 
 
 I judged myself here about 150 miles from the coast. 
 With the exception of a Mbicho town near by, we were now 
 surrounded on three sides by Fan villages, and shall make 
 the acquaintance of these cannibak in a very short time. 
 
46 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. VI. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Hunger — Meeting with cannibals — They think I am a spirit — Gfreat crowds 
 of cannibals — Appearance of the Fans — Fan dress — Gorilla hunting — 
 Fierce attack of a gorilla — His horrid appearance — Death of a gorilla 
 — The Bakalai — Wailing of the Bakalai — Love of the people for 
 tobacco. 
 
 Next day Mbene came, whioli gave me great relief, for he is 
 a steadier and more influential man than his sons. He 
 was exhausted from his travels, and when I told him we 
 needed food, he immediately set off to a Fan village a few 
 miles off for a supply. Unable to wait for his return, I 
 started off with my men to meet him, hoping perhaps to 
 shoot something by the way. My hunger accelerated my 
 movements, and pretty soon I found myself half a mile ahead 
 of my companions and in sight of a chattering monkey, who 
 dodged me whenever I took aim at him, and whom I vainly 
 tried to get down off his perch on' the high tree where he 
 lived. 
 
 After watching this animal for some time, I happened to 
 look down before me, and beheld a sight which drove the 
 monkey out of my mind in an instant. Judge of my 
 astonishment when before me I saw a Fan warrior, with his 
 two wives behind him. I was at first alarmed, but im- 
 mediately saw that all three were quaking with deadly 
 terror. The man's shield shook and rattled, to such a degree 
 was he frightened ; his mouth stood open — the lips were 
 fairly white ; one of his three spears had fallen to the 
 ground, and the other two he held in a manner betokening 
 great fear. 
 
 The women had been carrying baskets on their heads, but 
 these had been thrown to the ground, and they stood in 
 perfect silence and terror looking at me. 
 
 They all thought, it appeared afterwards, that I was a 
 spirit who had just come down out of the sky. As for me, 
 my first thought, when I took in the situation, was — Suppose 
 these people grow desperate with fear, then I may have a 
 poisoned arrow launched at me. And if they got over their 
 
Chai'. VI. 
 
 THE FANS. 
 
 47 
 
 terror ere mj' companions arrived, tlien I was likely to have 
 a spear sent tlirough me, unless I vs^ere quicker than my 
 antagonist and sluit him, which I by no means desired to do ; 
 for, aside from the hatred of unnecessary bloodshed, I should 
 by sxicli a course have endangered my life among his 
 countrymen. 
 
 I smiled and tried fo look pleasant, in order to reassure 
 
 FAN WARRIOK. 
 
 them a little ; but this only made matters worse. They 
 looked as though upon the point of sinking to the ground. 
 
 Then I heard the voices of my men behind coming up, and 
 presently I was safe, and the Fan people were relieved of 
 their terror. jMiengai smiled to see it, and told the man 
 he need not regard me as a spirit, for I was his father's 
 white man, come from the sea-shore on purpose to visit 
 
48 'MQVATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. VI. 
 
 the Fan. Then I gave the women some strings of white 
 beads, which did more than anything else to ease their 
 fears. 
 
 On our return we found that Makinda had brought some 
 plantains, but no fowl. I had now been a week without 
 tasting flesh, except only the monkey we shot on the way, 
 and felt very much in need of something better. 
 
 For the rest of the day we held levee in my house. Great 
 crowds of Fan from the neighbouring villages came to see 
 me. The men did not appear very much frightened, but the 
 women and children were excessively so. But all kept at a 
 very respectable distance. One glance from me toward a 
 woman or child sufficed to make these run off. 
 
 If I was not frightened, I was at least as much surprised 
 by all I saw as the Fan could be. These fellows, who now 
 for the first time saw a white man, were to me an equal 
 surprise, for they are real, unmistakeable cannibals. And 
 they were, by long odds, the most remarkable people I had 
 thus far seen in Africa. They were much lighter in shade 
 than any of the coast tribes, strong, tall, well-made, and 
 evidently active; and they seemed to me to have a more 
 intelligent look than is usual to the African unacquainted 
 with white men. 
 
 The men were almost naked. They had no cloth about 
 the middle, but used instead the soft inside bark of a tree, 
 over which in front was suspended the skin of some wild-cat- 
 or other animal. They had their teeth filed, which gives the 
 face a ghastly and ferocious look, and some had the teeth 
 blackened besides. Their hair or " wool " was drawn out 
 into long thin plaits ; on the end of each stiff plait were 
 strung some white beads, or copper or iron rings. Some 
 wore feather caps, but others wore long queues made of 
 their own wool and a kind of tow, dyed black and mixed 
 with it, and giving the wearer a most grotesque appearance. 
 
 Over their shoulders was suspended the huge country knife, 
 and in their hands were spears and the great shield of ele- 
 phant-hide, and about the necks and bodies of all was hung 
 a variety of fetiches and greegrees, which rattled as they 
 walked. 
 
;3 
 
 FAN WOMAN ANI> CHILD. 
 
50 EQUATORIAL AFHIGA. Chap. VJ 
 
 The Fan shield is made of the hide of an old elephant, and 
 only of that part which lies across the Lack. This, when 
 dried and smoked, is hard and impenetrable as iron. The 
 shield is about three feet long by two-and-a-half wide. 
 
 Their fetiches consisted of fingers and tails of monkeys ; of 
 human hair, skin, teeth, hones ; of clay, old nails, copper 
 cliains, shells; feathers, claws, and skulls of birds; pieces of 
 ir-'iu, copper, or wood; seeds of plants; ashes of various 
 substances ; and I cannot tell what more. Prom the great 
 variety and plenty of these objects on their persons, I suppose 
 these Fail to be a very superstitious people. 
 
 The women, who were even less dressed than the men, 
 were much smaller than they. These, too, had their teeth 
 filed, and most had their bodies painted red, by means of a 
 dye obtained from the bar-wood. They carried their babies 
 on their backs in a sling or rest made of some kind of tree- 
 bark and fastened to the neck of the mothei'. 
 
 Such were the strange people who now crowded about me, 
 examining every part of my person and dress that I would 
 allow to be touched, but especially wondering at my hair and 
 my feet. The former they could not sufficiently admire. On 
 my feet I had boots ; and as my trousers lay over these, they 
 thought, naturally enough, that the.-e boots were my veritable 
 feet, and wondered greatly that my face should be of one 
 colour and the feet of another. I showed myself to as 
 good advantage as I could, and surprised them very much — 
 as I wished to do — by shooting a couple of swallows on the 
 wing in their presence. This was thought a wonderful feat. 
 They all went off at four o'clock, promising to return 
 to-morrow and bring me some fowls. 
 
 These Fan belong, T should think, to a different family of 
 the negro race from the coast natives, or indeed any tribes I 
 have seen before. Their foreheads do not seem so compressed ; 
 but it is curious that in many the head runs up into a kind of 
 peak or sugar-luaf. This indicates a low scale of intelligence ; 
 but it must be said, to those people's credit, that they are in 
 some things much more ingenious than their neighbours. 
 They extract iron from the ore, and show great ingenuity, 
 with such poor implements as they have, in making their 
 
Chap. VI. THE FANS. 51 
 
 weapon.s, as the illustrations I give of those in my collection 
 will show. 
 
 FAN SHIELD AND SPEABS. 
 
 I spent the day chiefly in looking about the town and 
 neighbourhood — really doing nothing. As I walked along, 
 
52 EQVATOJilAL AFRICA. Chap. VI. 
 
 a Fan woman gravely asked me why I did not take off my 
 clothes ? She felt sure they must be a great hindrance to me, 
 and if I would leave off these things I should be able to 
 walk more easily. 
 
 The next day we went out all together for a gorilla-hunt. 
 The country hereabout is very I'ough, hilly, and densely 
 crowded; consequently, hunting is scarcely to be counted 
 sport. But a couple of days of rest had refreshed me, and 
 I was anxious to be in at the death of a gorilla. 
 
 We saw several gorilla-tracks, and about noon divided our 
 party, in the hope of surrounding the resting-place of one 
 whose tracks were very plain. I had scarce got away from 
 my party three hundred yards when I heard the report of a 
 gun, then of three more, going off one after the other. Of 
 course I ran back as fast as I could, and hoped to see a dead 
 animal before me, but was once more disappointed. My 
 Mbondemo fellows had fired at a female, had wounded her, as 
 I saw by the clots of blood which marked her track, but she 
 had made good her escape. We set out at once in pursuit ; 
 but these woods are so thick, so almost impenetrable, that 
 pursuit of a wounded animal is not often successful. A man 
 can only creep where the beast would run. 
 
 Night came upon us while we were still beating the bnsb, 
 and it was determined to camp out and try our luck again on 
 the morrow. 
 
 We started early, and pushed for the most dense and im- 
 penetrable part of the forest, in hopes to find the very home 
 of the beast I so much wished to shout. Hour after hour we 
 travelled, and yet no sign of gorilla. Only the everlasting 
 little chattering monkeys — and not many of these — and 
 occasioTially birds. In fact, the forests of this part of Africa 
 — as the reader has seen bj' this time — are not so full of life 
 as in some other parts to the south. 
 
 Suddenly Miengai uttered a little elude with his tongue, 
 which is the native's way of showing that something is 
 stirring, and that a sharp look-out is necessary. And pre- 
 sently I noticed, ahead of us seemingly, a noise as of some 
 one breaking down branches or twigs of trees. 
 
 This was the gorilla, I know at once, )iy the eager and 
 
Chap. VI. A GORILLA. 53 
 
 satisfied looks of the men. They looked once more carefully 
 at their guns, to see if by any chance the powder had fallen 
 out of the pans ; I also examined mine, to make sure that all 
 was right ; and then we marched on cautiously. 
 
 The singular noise of the breaking of tree-branches cun- 
 tinued. We walked with the greatest care, making no 
 noise at all. The countenances of the men showed that they 
 thought themselves engaged in a verjr serious undertaking ; 
 but we pushed on, until finally we thought we saw through 
 the thick woods the moving of the branches and small trees 
 which the great beast was tearing down, probably to get 
 from them the berries and fruits he lives on. 
 
 Suddenly, as we were creeping along, in a silence which 
 made a heavy breath seem loud and distinct, the woods 
 were filled with the tremendous barking roar of the gorilla. 
 
 Then the underbrush swayed rapidly just ahead, and 
 presently before us stood an immense male gorilla. He had 
 gone through the jungle on all-fours ; but when he saw our 
 party, he raised himself erect and looked us boldly in the face. 
 He stood about a dozen yards from us, and was a sight I 
 think I shall never forget. Nearly six feet iiigh (he proved 
 four inches shorter), with immense body, huge chest, and 
 great muscular arms, with fiercely-glaring large deep gray 
 eyes, and a hellish expression of face, which seemed to me 
 like some nightmare vision ; thus stood before us this king of 
 the African forest. 
 
 He was not afraid of us. He stood there, and beat his 
 breast with his huge fists till it resounded like an immense 
 bass-drum, which is their mode of offering defiance ; meantime 
 giving vent to roar after roar. 
 
 The roar of the gorilla is the most singular and awful noL-^e 
 heard in these African woods. It begins with a sharp bark, 
 like an angry dog, then glides into a deep bass roll which 
 literally and closely resembles the roll of distant thunder 
 along the sky, for which I have sometimes been tempted to 
 take it where I did not see the animal. So deep is it that it 
 seems to proceed less from the mouth and throat than from 
 the deep chest and vast paunch. 
 
 His eyes began to fla.^h fiercer fire as we stood motionless on 
 
54 EQVATOHIAL AFltlCA. Chap. VI, 
 
 the defensive, aud the crest of sh^irt hair which stands on his 
 fcjjeliead began to twitch rapidlj' up and down, while his 
 powi rful I'angs were shewn as he ugain sent forth a thiinderous 
 roar. And now truly he reminded me of nothing but some 
 lielli.'ih dream creature — a being of that hideous order, half- 
 man, half beast, which we find pictured by old artists in 
 Some representations of the infernal regions. He advanced 
 a few stujjs — tlien stopped to utter that hideous roar again — 
 uilvanci.d again, and finally stopped when at a distance of 
 nbout six yards from us. And here, just as he began 
 another of his roars, beating his breast in rage, we fired and 
 killed him. 
 
 With a i^roan which had something terriblj' human in it, 
 and yet was full of brutishness, he fell forward on his face. 
 'J'he budv sho k convulsively for a few minutes, the limbs 
 moved ^.bout in a struggling way, and then all was quiet — 
 deaih had done its work, aud I bad leisure to examine the 
 huge body. It proved to be five feet eight inches high, and 
 tint muscular development of the arms and breast showed 
 what immense strength it had possessed. 
 
 My men, though rejoicing at our luck, immediately began 
 to quarrel about tie apportionment of the meat — for they 
 really eat this creature. I saw that they would come to 
 blows presently if I did not interfere, and therefore said I 
 would myself give each man his share, which satisfied all. 
 As we were too tired to return to our camp of last night, we 
 determined to camp here on the spot, and accordingly f-oon 
 had some shelters erected and dinner going on. Luckily one 
 of the fellows shot a deer just as we began to camp, and on 
 its meat I feasted while my men ate gorilla. 
 
 I noticed that they very carefully saved the brain, and was 
 tnld that charms were made of this — charms of two kinds. 
 Prepared in one way, the charm gave the wearer a strong 
 hand for the hunt, and in another it gave him success with 
 women. This evening we had gorilla stories again — but all 
 to the same point already mentioned, that there are gorillas 
 inhabited by human spirits. 
 
 We returned to our deserted village next day, and found a 
 division of travelling Bakalai in pos-session. These people, 
 
56 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. VI. 
 
 with whom fortunately I could speak, had lived on the Noya, 
 some distance from here. They were now moving to be near 
 some of their tribe. I asked why they left their former 
 village, and learned that one morning one of their men, 
 while out bathing in the river, had been shot. Hereupon 
 they were seized with a panic, believed the town attacked by 
 witches, and at once resolved to abandon it and settle else- 
 where. They had all their household goods with him — 
 chests, cloth, brass kettles, wash-basins, pans, &o., as well as 
 a great quantity of yams, plantains, and fowls. 
 
 They were glad to get some tobacco from me, and I was 
 glad to barter a little away for provisions. 
 
 At sunset everyone of them retired within doors. The 
 children ceased to play, and all became quiet in the camp 
 where just before had been so much life and bustle. Then 
 suddenly arose on the air one of those mournful, heart- 
 piercing chants which you hear among all the tribes in this 
 land — a wail whose burden seems to be, " There is no hope." 
 It was a chant for their departed friends ; and as they sang, 
 tears rolled down the cheeks of the women, fright marked 
 their faces and cowed their spirits — for they have a belief 
 that at the sunset hour the evil spirits walk abroad among 
 tbem. 
 
 I listened to try to gather the words of their chants ; but 
 there was a very monotonous repetition of one idea — that of 
 sorrow at the departure of some one. 
 
 Thus they sang : 
 
 " We clii noli liibella pe na beshe. 
 Oh, you will never speak to us any more. 
 We cannot see your face any more; 
 You will never walk with us again, 
 You will never settle our palavers for us." 
 
 And so on. 
 
 These poor people lead dreadful and dreary lives. Not 
 only have they to fear their enemies among ueighbourin <>■ 
 tribes, as well as the various accidents to which a savao-e life 
 is especially liable, such as starvation, the attacks of wild 
 beasts, &c., but their whole lives are saddened and embittered 
 
Chap. VI. THE BAKALAI. 57 
 
 by tho fears of ovil spirits, witchcraft, and other kiiidred 
 superstitions under which they labour. 
 
 After they had chanted for half-an-hour, thoy came over to 
 my house with various fowls and other food to buy " white 
 man's tobacco " to cheer them on their journey. I was very 
 glad to trade with them, and boiight fowls, plantains, sugar- 
 cane, and pine-apples. In Western Africa, men, women, and 
 children all smoke. They never chew, unless they learn 
 the practice of the whites; but smoking seems to be a very 
 grateful occupation to them. 
 
 The next morning all was bustle in camp. The Bakalai 
 were cooking a meal before setting out on their ti'avels. It 
 is astonishing to see the neatness with which these savages 
 prepare their food. I watched some women engaged in 
 boiling pilantains, which form the bread of all this region. 
 One built a bright fice between two stones. The others 
 peeled the plantains, then carefully washed them — just as a 
 clean white cook would — and, cutting them in several pieces, 
 put them in the earthen pot ; this was then half filled with 
 water, covered over with leaves, over which were placed the 
 banana peelings, and then the pot was placed on the stones 
 to boil. Meat they had not, but roasted a few ground-nuts 
 instead ; but the boiled plantains they ate with great quan- 
 tities of Cayenne pepper. 
 
 Next day we had promised to go among the Fans to live, 
 so to-day we went hunting again. I had no padlock to my 
 house, and was in a quandary how to leave what would 
 certainly be stolen — all my provisions. Fortunately, 1 
 bethought me of some sealing-wax, and went to work to seal 
 up my door with pieces of twine, to the great amusement of 
 the rascally Miengai, who saw his game baulked, but could 
 not help laughing. This evening, as I sat in my house, tired, 
 I perceived a smell of burning meat. Stealing out, I found 
 my fellows sitting about a fire and roasting an animal which 
 I could not recognize. Their duty is to bring me all they 
 kill, but they evidently did not. They seemed much ashamed, 
 and I told them thej^ need not come to me for more powder. 
 
58 EQVATOBIAL AFRICA. Giiai-. Vlt. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Departure foif a Fan village — Cannibal practices of tlie Fane — Ficjoe 
 appearance of tlio king — Head-dross of the Fans — A queen of the 
 Fans — A Fan village — Signs of cannibalism everywhere — Refusal of 
 cooked food — Ndiayai and his warriors — Weapons of the Fans — Drum, 
 musical instruments. 
 
 The next.morniug we moved off for the Fan village, and 
 now I had the opportunity to satisfy myself as to the can- 
 nibal practices of these people. I was satisfied but too soon. 
 As we entered the town I perceived some bloody remains 
 which looked to me to be human ; bnt I passed on, still 
 incredulous. Presently we passed a woman who solved all 
 doubt. She bore with her a piece of the thigh of a human 
 body, just as we should go to market and carry thence a chop 
 or steak. 
 
 The whole village was much excited, and the women and 
 children greatly scared at my presence. All fled into the 
 houses as we passed through what appeared the main street 
 — a long lane — in which I saw here and there human bones 
 lying about. 
 
 At last we arrived at the palaver-house. Here we were 
 left alone for a while, though we heard great shoutings going 
 on at a little distance. I was told by one of them afterwards 
 that they had been busy dividing the body of a dead man, 
 and that there was not enough for all. The head, I am told, 
 is a royalty, being saved for the king. 
 
 Presently they flocked in, and before long we were pre- 
 sented to the king. This personage was a ferocious-looking 
 fellow, whose bodjr, naked with exception of the usual cloth 
 about the middle, made of the bark of a tree, was painted 
 red, and whose face, chest, stomach and back were tattooed 
 in a rude but very effective manner. He was covered with 
 charms, and was fully armed, as were all the Fans who now 
 crowded the house to see me. 
 
 I do not know if the king had given himself a few extra 
 horrid touches to impress nie ; but if so, he missed his mark, 
 for I took care to retain a look of perfect impassiveness. 
 
Chap. VII. A FAN KING AND QUEEN. 59 
 
 All the Fans present wore queues, but the queue of Ndiayai 
 the king was the biggest of all, and terminated in two tails, 
 in which were strung brass rings, while the top was orna- 
 mented with white beads. Brass anklets jingled as he 
 walked. The front of his middle-cloth was a fine piece of 
 tiger-skin. His beard was plaited in several plaits, which 
 also contained white beads, and stuck out stiffly from the face. 
 His teeth were filed sharp, and coloured black, so that the 
 mouth of this old cannibal, when he opened it, put me un- 
 commonly in mind of a tomb. 
 
 The queen, who accompanied her lord, and who was 
 decidedly the ugliest woman I had ever seen, and very old, 
 was called Mashumba. She was nearly naked, her only 
 article of dress being a strip of the Fan cloth, dyed red, and 
 about four inches wide. Her entire body was tattooed in the 
 most fanciful manner ; her skin, from long exposure, had 
 become rough and knotty. She wore two enormous iron 
 anklets — iron being a very precious metal with the Fan — 
 and had in her ears a pair of cojiper ear-rings two inches in 
 diameter, and very heavy. These had so weighed down the 
 lobes of her ears that I could have put my little finger easily 
 into the holes through which the rings were run. 
 
 I think the king was a little shaken at sight of me. He 
 had been originally much averse to the interview, from a 
 belief that he would die in three days after seeing me. 
 Finally Mbene reassured him. 
 
 Mbene was in his glory. He had charge of a white man, 
 among a people whom he himself feared, but who he saw 
 feared, in turn, me, whom he knew very well. He told the 
 Fan king that he had brought him a spirit, who had come 
 many thousands of miles across the big ivater to see the Fan. 
 
 The king replied that this was well, and sent off' his queen 
 
 the ugly one — to prepare me a house. And after a few 
 
 more civilities, but very little formality of any kind, his 
 majesty withdrew. 
 
 Presently I was conducted to my house. The village was 
 a new one, and consisted mostly of a single street about 800 
 yards long, on which were built the houses. The latter were 
 small, being only eight or ten feet long, five or six wide, and 
 
60 EQUATORIAL AFEICA. Chap. Vll. 
 
 four or five in height, with slanting roofs. They were made 
 of bark, and the roofs were of a kind of matting made of the 
 leaves of a palm-tree. The doors run up to the eaves, about 
 four feet hig-h, and there were no windows. In these houses 
 they cook, eat, sleep, and keep their store of provisions, the 
 chief of which is the smoked game and smoked human flesh, 
 hung up to the rafters. 
 
 All the Fan villages are strongly fenced or palisadoed, and 
 by night they keep a careful watch. They have also a little 
 native dog, whose sharp bark is the signal of some one 
 approaching from without. In the villages they are neat 
 and clean, the street being swept, and all garbage — except, 
 indeed, the well-picked bones of their human subjects — is 
 thrown out. 
 
 After visiting the house assigned me, I was taken through 
 the town, where I saw more dreadful signs of cannibalism in 
 jiiles of human bones, mixed up with other offal, thrown at 
 the sides of several houses. I find that the men, though 
 viewing me with great curiosity, are not any longer afraid of 
 me, and even the women stand while I approach them. 
 They are a more manly and courageous race than the tribes 
 towards the coast. 
 
 Then we returned to the king, where we were presented 
 to his four wives, who showed uncommon dislike to my 
 presence. Mbene is in great glee, as wherever he goes he is 
 surrounded with Fan fellows, who praise him for being 
 the friend of the spirit. Indeed, he has always been proud 
 of this, and tells now, with no little pleasure, to the 
 astonished Fans, that two before me have visited him, which 
 is a fact. 
 
 Towards evening we retired to our houses. I called the 
 king into mine, and gave him a large bunch of white beads, 
 a looking-glass, a file, fire-steel, and some gun-flints. His 
 face was fairly illuminated with joy, and he took his leave, 
 highly pleased. Presently afterwards one of the queens 
 brought me a basket full of bananas. Some of these were 
 already cooked, and these I at once refused, having a horrid 
 loathing of the flesh-pots of these people. I stated at once 
 my fixed purpose to have all cooking done for me in my own 
 
CuAt. VII N1)IA YAl, KING OF TEE FANS. 
 
 61 
 
 
 
 \. 
 
 nbiayjIi, king of the fans. 
 
62 EQUATOIUAL AFRICA. Chap. VII, 
 
 kettles, and mean to be involved in no man-eating — even at 
 second-hand. 
 
 Shortly after sunset all became silent in the village, and 
 everybody seemed inclined to go to sleep. I barred my door 
 as well as I could with my chest, and lying down on the 
 dreadful bed which was provided for me, placed my gun by 
 my side ready for use. For though they be ever so friendly, 
 I cannot get it out of my head that these people not only 
 kill people, but eat them, and that some gastronomic caprice 
 might tempt them to have me for a dinner while I am among 
 them. 
 
 I said dreadful bed. It was a frame of bamboos, each 
 about an inch in diameter. Of course it was rough ; and I 
 found my bones aching so in the morning, that I might as 
 well have slept on a nail-heap or on a pile of cannon-balls. 
 But I slept, and was not interrupted, though, on going out 
 next morning, I saw a pile of ribs, leg and arm bones, and 
 skulls (human) piled up at the baok of my hoiise, which 
 looked horrid enough to me. In fact, symjitoms of can- 
 nibalism stare me in the face wherever I go, and I can no 
 longer doubt. 
 
 I had told the king that I should like to see him dressed 
 in war array, so this morning (September 1st) he called upon 
 me with his queen and a cortege of his chiefs. The body 
 was again painted red ; he wore a shield of elephant's hide, 
 and was armed for the offensive with three spears and a little 
 bag of poisoned arrows. His head was splendidly decorated 
 with the red feathers of a touracaw (corythaix) ; his teeth 
 were painted very black ; and his whole body was covered 
 with greegrees and fetiches, to protect him from death by 
 spears, guns, and witches. 
 
 Everybody admired the head-dress of Mashumba, the 
 queen. It was a cap of white beads. These beads form the 
 most desired ornaments of the blacks, and, with tobacco 
 and powder, are the best trade a traveller can take into the 
 interior. 
 
 Ndiayai remarked that, while surrounded by his warriors, 
 he feared nothing, and spoke of the bravery of his people ; 
 and I am read}' to believe them an unusually warlike tribe. 
 
CllAl'. VII. 
 
 NATIVE ]]'!■: A PONS. 
 
 63 
 
 They pointed out one man to mo who Lore the name of 
 " Leo2)ard," because of his bravery. Ho had killed many of 
 their enemies, and also manj^ olei)hants. 
 
 They h-ive a great diversitj' of arms. Among the crowd 
 to-day I saw men armed with cross-bows, from which are 
 shot either iron-headed arrows, or the little, insignificant- 
 looking, but reallj' most deadly, poison-tipped arrows. These 
 axe only slender, harmless reeds, a foot long, whose sharpened 
 ends are dipped into a deadly vegetable poison which these 
 people know how to make. The arrows are so light that 
 that they woulu blow away if simply laid in the groove of 
 
 FAN BOWMAN. 
 
 the bow. To prevent this, they use a kind of sticky gum, a 
 lump of which is kept on the under side of the bow, and 
 with which a small spot in the groove in lightly rubbed. 
 Tho handle of the bow is ingeniously split, and by a little 
 peg, which acts as a trigger, the bow-string is disengaged, 
 and, as the spring is very strong, sends the arrow to a great 
 distance, and, light as it is, with great force. They are good 
 marksmen with their bows, which require great strength to 
 bend. They have to sit on their haunches, and apply both 
 feet to the middle of the bow, while they pull with all their 
 strength on the string to bend it back. 
 
 The laro-er arrows have an iron head, something like the 
 
6i 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. VIl, 
 
 sliarp barbs of a harpoon. These are used for hunting wild 
 beasts, and are about two feet long. But the more deadly- 
 weapon is the little insignificant stick of bamboo, ncit iriore 
 than twelve inches long, and simply sharpened at one end. 
 This is the famed poison-arrow — a missile which bears 
 death wherever it touches, if only it pricks a pin's-point of 
 blood. The jioison is made of the juices 
 of a plant which was not shown me. They 
 dip the sharp ends of the arrows several 
 times in this sap, and let it get thoroughly 
 dried into the wood. It gives the point a 
 red colour. The arrows are very carefully 
 kept in a little bag, made neatly of the 
 skin of some wild animal. They are much 
 dreaded among the tribes about here, as 
 they can be thrown or projected with such 
 power as to fake effect at a distance of 
 fifteen yards, and with such velocity that 
 you cannot see them at all till they are 
 spent. This I have often proved myself. 
 There is no cure for a wound from one 
 of these harmless-looking little sticks — 
 death follows in a very short time. 
 
 Some of the Fans bore on their shoulders 
 the terrible war-axe figured on the following 
 page, one blow of which quite suffices to 
 split a human bkull. Some of these axes, as 
 well as their spiears and other iron-work, 
 were beautifully ornamented with scroll- 
 work, and wrought in graceful lines and 
 curves which spoke well for their artisans. 
 
 The war-knife, which hangs by the side, is a terrible 
 weapon for a hand-to-hand conflict, and, as they explained to 
 me, is designed to thrust through the enemy's body ; they 
 are about three feet long. There is another huge knife also 
 worn by some of the men now in the crowd before me. This 
 is over a foot long, by about eight inches wide, and is used 
 to cut down through the shoulders of an adversary. It must 
 do tremendous execution. 
 
 POISONEl' ARROWS 
 IN A SKIN BAG 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 FAN' WEAPONS. 
 
 65 
 
 Then there is a very singular pointed axe, which is thrown 
 from a distance. Tlie figure (1) will give the reader an idea 
 of the curious shape of this weapon. When thrown it strikes 
 with the point down, and inflicts a terrible wound. They use 
 it with great dexterity. The object aimed at with this axe 
 is the head. The puint penetrates to the brain, ;'nd kills the 
 victim immediately ; and then the round edge of the axe is 
 
 1. Tomtihawk. 
 
 FAN KNIFE AND AXES. 
 
 2. Knife. 3. Sheath. 
 
 4. War-axe. 
 
 used to cut the head off, which is borne away by the victor 
 as a trophy. 
 
 The spears, which are six to seven feet in length, are 
 thrown by the natives with great force, and with an accuracy 
 of aim which never ceast-d to surprise me. They make the 
 long slender rod fairly whistle through the air. Most of 
 them can throw a spear effectively to the distance of from 
 twenty to thirty yards. 
 
t ^_: 
 
 X 
 
 
 &> 
 
 t^*- •» . — . 
 
 
 ' J* 
 
 'J5 
 
 illiillliiliiniiiiiiiiii 
 
Chap. VII. FAN FESTl YITIES. 67 
 
 Most of tlie knives and axes were ingeuionsly slieathed in 
 covei's made of snake-skins, or human skin taken from some 
 victim in battle. Many of these sheaths are ingeniously 
 made, and are slung round the neck Ly cords, which 
 permit the weapon to hang at the side out of the wearer's 
 way. 
 
 The only weapon of defence is the huge shield of elephant's 
 hide; but this is even bullet-proof; and as it is very large 
 — three-and-a-half feet long by two-and-a-half broad — it 
 suffices to cover the whole body. 
 
 Besides their weapons, many of the men wore a smaller 
 kuife — but also rather unwieldy — which served the various 
 offices of a jack-knife, a hatchet, and a table-knife. But, 
 though rude in shape, they used it with great dexterity. 
 
 It was a grand sight to see so many stalwart, martial, 
 fierce-looking fellows, fully armed and ready for any desperate 
 foray, gathered in one assemblage. Finer-looking men I 
 never saw ; and I could well believe them brave, did not the 
 completeness of their armoury prove that war is a favourite 
 pastime with them. In fact, they are dreaded by all their 
 neighbours, and, if they were only animated by the spirit of 
 conquest, would soon make short work of the tribes between 
 them and the coast. 
 
 To-day several hundred Fans from the surrounding villages 
 came in to see me. Okolo, a great king among them, gave 
 me his knife, saying it had already killed a man. To-night 
 there is a great dance in honour of the arrival of a spirit 
 (myself) among them. This dance was the wildest scene I 
 ever saw. Everybody was there ; and I, in whose honour 
 the affair was, had to assist by my presence. The only music 
 was that of a rude drum — an instrument made of a certain 
 kind of wood, and of deer or goat skins. The cylinder was 
 about four feet long, and ten inches in diameter at one end, 
 but only seven at the other. The wood was hollowed out 
 quite thin, and the skin stretched over tightly. To beat it 
 the drummer held it slantingly between his legs, and with 
 two sticks beat furiously upon the uiiper, which was the 
 larger, end of the cjdinder. 
 
 This music was accompanied with singing, which was less 
 
m 
 
Chap. VII. 
 
 MUSICAL INSTBDMENTS. 
 
 69 
 
 melodious even than the drumming. As for the dancing, it 
 "Sfas an indescribable mixture of wildness and indecency. 
 
 They had au instrument of another kind, and of so in- 
 genious a construction that it is not altogether unworthy 
 of more civilized people. This, which they call the handja, 
 consists of a light reed frame, 3 feet long by 1^ broad, into 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 FAN DEUM AND HANDJA. 
 
 which are set and securely fastened a set of hollow gourds, 
 covered by strips of a hard red wood found in the forests. 
 Each of these cylinders is of a different size, and all are so 
 graduated that the set forms a regular series of notes. A 
 handja generally contains seven. The perfoimer sits down, 
 lays the frame across his knees, and strikes the strips lightly 
 with a stick. There are two sticks, one hard, the other soft, 
 and the principle is the same on wliich music has been pro- 
 
70 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 ClIAP. VIII. 
 
 chiced in France from a series of glasses. The tone is very 
 clear and good ; and though their tunes are very rude, they 
 can play them with considerable skill. Each gourd has a 
 little hole on the side, covered with the skin of a spider. 
 One of the consequences of the dance is that we are to 
 
 THE HANDJA. 
 
 have a great elephant-hunt, and women are busied in cooking 
 food and men in preparing arms for this great game. The 
 few guns owned by the Fans have been carefully furbished 
 up, and I have prepared my two for action, expecting great 
 things from such desperate hunters as these. 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 Elephant hunting witli the caniiibala — The king hunts with me — Appear- 
 ance of the forest — Man Ivilled by an elephint — Ceremonies round a 
 (lead elephant — Ihihits of the elepliant — Fan marriage ceremony — 
 Eating tliose wlin die a natural death — Bravery of the Fans — 
 Cannibalistic ciielom — Blacksmith — Pottery — Among the cannibal 
 Osliebas — Bunbafcii, king ot the Ot'hebas — Dare not go furthei 
 inland — Idol worship among the cannibals. 
 
 About five hundred men assembled f^r the hunt on the 
 morning of September 4th. Tliey were divided into diiferent 
 parties, each of which set out for the part of the forest 
 
Chap. VIII. ELEPBANT HUNTING. 71 
 
 assigned it. Meantime Ndiaijai and I went togetlier to the 
 general rendezvous, a walk of about six hours through the 
 woody and mountainous country which I have already 
 described. The march was conducted in jjerfect silence, and 
 every care was taken not to alarm any game which might be 
 near our track. Arrived at our halting-place, we immediately 
 began to build our camp, and had hardly got our shelters 
 constructed when it began to rain. 
 
 The next morning we set out for the hunting-ground. 
 And here a most remarkable sight presented itself. The 
 elephant, like most other great beasts, has no regular walk 
 or Tpaih, but strays somewhat at random through the woods 
 in search of food ; but it is his habit, when pleased with a 
 neighbourhood, to remain there for a considerable time, and 
 not to let any small matter drive him away. Now, of 
 this the Fan take advantage. The forests here are full of 
 rough, strong, climbing-plants, running up to the top of 
 the tallest trees. These creepers they tear down, and with 
 them ingeniously, but with much labour, construct a kind of 
 huge fence or obstruction, not sufficient to hold the elephant, 
 but quite strong enough to check him in his flight and 
 entangle him in the meshes till the hunters can have time to 
 kill him. Once caught, they quietly surround the huge 
 beast, and put an end to his struggles by incessant discharges 
 of their spears or guns. 
 
 Presently a kind of hunting-horn was sounded, and the 
 chase began. Parties were stationed at different points of the 
 barrier or " tangle," as we will call it, which had an astonish- 
 ing extent, and must have cost mucli toil to make. Others 
 stole through the woods in silence and looked for their 
 prey. 
 
 When tliey find an elephant they approach very carefully. 
 The object is to scare him and make him run toward some 
 part of the barrier — generally not far off. To accomplish 
 tliis, they often crawl at their full length along the ground, 
 just like snakes, and with astonishing swiftness. 
 
 The first idea of the animal is flight. He rushes ahead 
 almost blindly, but is brought up by the barrier of vines. 
 Enrao-ed, and still more terrified, he tears everything with 
 

 
 
 
Chap, VIII. DANGERS OF ELEPHANT HUNTING. 73 
 
 his trunk and feet. But in vain ; tlie tongli vines, nowhere 
 fastened, give to every blow, and the mure ho labours, the 
 more fatally he is held. 
 
 Meantime, at the fii-st rush of tho elephant the natives 
 crowd round ; and while he is struggling in their toils they 
 are plying him with spears, often from trees, till the poor 
 wounded beast looks like a huge porcupine. This .'-2ica]iiig 
 does not cease till they have killed their prej'. 
 
 To-day we killed four elephants in this way. It w,is quite 
 an exciting time to the natives, though I confess of less 
 interest to me after I had seen the first killed. It seemed 
 monotonous and somewhat unfair; nevertheless, there is 
 sufficient danger about it. The elephants aljout here have 
 the reputation of holding man in slight fear, and the 
 approach and attack are work for the greatest courage and 
 presence of mind. Even then fatal accidents occur, 'fo-day 
 a man was killed. ' I was not present at the accident, but he 
 heems to have lo-t his presence of mind, and when the 
 elephant charged wnth great fury at a cTuwd of assailants, he 
 was caught, and instantly tiampled under foot. 
 
 When his companions saw that he was dead, they in turn 
 grew furious, and actiiallj^ pursued the elephant, which whs 
 making its escape, charged upon it, and so beset it with 
 spears, that in a few minutes it was dead. I never saw men 
 so excited with rage. They began even to cut tho dead 
 animal to pieces for revenge. 
 
 They have certain precautionary rules for these hunts, 
 which shew that they understand the animal. For instance, 
 they say you must never approach an elephant but from 
 behind, as he cannot turn very fast, and you have time to 
 make your escape after firing. Great care is necessary that 
 the vines which are so fatal to the elephant do not also 
 catch his pursuers. I was told that it was not unfre(|Uont for 
 a man to be thus hopelessly entangled, and then deliberately 
 killed by the elephant. Often it becomes necessary for the 
 hunters to retreat, and, as they can scnrce outrun the great 
 heavy animal, at such times all hands take refuge in trees, 
 ■which tliey climb with astonishing swiftness — almost like 
 monkeys. Even then, however, a man must select a stout 
 
74 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chai-. VIII. 
 
 tree; and Ndiayai told me of a case where a small saplinj; 
 was pulltd down by an enraged lieast, and the occnpaut had 
 a narrow escape for his life. 
 
 Now followed the rites with which they oifer thanks for 
 a good day's hunt to the idol who, in their belief, guides 
 their fortunes. Without those preliminary rites, no meat is 
 touched. 
 
 First comes the whole party and dances around the ele- 
 phant, while the medicine or greegree men cut off a portion 
 — invariably from one of the hind legs — of each elephant. 
 This was the meat intended for an offering to the idol. This 
 meat was put into baskets, afterward to be cooked under the 
 direct superintendence of the greegree man and the men who 
 killed the particular animal. Finally, the whole party 
 danced about the baskets and sang songs to their idol, beg- 
 ging for another such good hunt as this one. 
 
 The king was of opinion that if this ceremony were neg- 
 lected they would get nothing next time; but thought their 
 songs and dances would please the idol, who would give 
 them even more elephants in future. 
 
 The sacrificial meats are taken into the woods, where it is 
 probable they regale some panther — if the shrewd medicine- 
 man does not himself come and eat them. And the body of 
 the poor fellow who was killed to-day is, I am told, to be sent 
 to another Fan village, to he sold and eaten. This soems the 
 proper and usual end of the Fans. They will not eat their 
 own people. 
 
 The elephants were cut up the next day, and the meat was 
 all hung up to be smoked, which these natives understand how 
 to do. 
 
 The persistence with which the elephant in this part of 
 the country sticks to a spot which affords him such leaves as 
 he best likes, is very remarkable. It is in pait, probablj', 
 from a scarcity of his favourite trees. I have seen them 
 remain for days in the immediate vicinity of such a set of 
 fences as I have described, where the natives, of course, 
 each day killed some. Sometimes, too, they will almost 
 enter the towns, pulling down the small trees, and breaking 
 branches off the larger, to get the food which best suits 
 
Chap. VIII. MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. 75 
 
 their taste. Often, however, they leave a neighbonrhoitd 
 at the first attack, when the natives follow and make new 
 fences. 
 
 They have another way of killing elephants, which I saw 
 used in the woods this daj', and have often seen since. They 
 discover a walk or path throngh which it is likely that a herd 
 or single animal will soon pass. Then they take a piece of 
 very heavy wood, which the Balcalai call lianou, and trice it 
 up into a high tree, where it hangs, with a sharp point, 
 armed with iron, pointing downward. It is suspended by a 
 rope, which is so arranged that the instant the elephant 
 touches it — which he cannot help doing if he passes under 
 the lianou — it is loosed, and falls with tremendous force on to 
 his back, the iron point wounding him, and the heavyweight 
 generally breaking his spine. 
 
 It is generally supposed that the elephant is found only in 
 the plains ; but, from various observations in this region, I 
 conclude that the animal also frequents the mountains and 
 rough high country. Their tracks are frequently met with 
 among the mountnins, and several times I have scarcely been 
 able to believe my ey( s when I saw plainly the foot-prints of 
 the huge animal in spots which it could only have altained 
 by the ascent of almost isreoijiitous hill-.sides — ascents which 
 we found it difficult to make ourselves. 
 
 The elephant-meat, of which the Fan seem to be very 
 fond, and which they have been cooking and smoking for 
 three days, is the toughest meat I had tasted, and when 
 it has been boiled for two days, twelve hours each day, 
 it is still tough. I cannot explain its taste, because we 
 have no flesh which tastes like it; but the flavour is not 
 unpleasant. 
 
 As we were returning, I learned fiom the king a very 
 curious particular of the Fan customs, of which I did not 
 suspect any of these West African tribes. It appears that 
 they never marry their girls before they have arrived at the 
 age of puberty, and that they have a care for the chastity of 
 their young women. I had already remarked, what I suppose 
 is the natural result of the Fan custoin, that these people 
 have more children by far than either the Shekiani, Bakalai, 
 
76 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. ' Chap. VIIL' 
 
 Mbicho, Mbondemo, Mbousha, or any of the interior tribes I 
 have seen north of the equator. Those tribes are gradually 
 but surely disappearing, but the Fans seem likely to 
 survive. 
 
 The Fan marriage ceremonies are very rude, but are an 
 occasion of great jollity. Of coiirse, the husband has to buy 
 his wife, and the shrewd father makes a bargain with him as 
 well as he can, putting on a great price if the man's love is 
 very ardent ; so that I was told it sometimes took years 
 before a man could buy and marry his wife. If trade with 
 the sea-shore were better it would not be so hard ; but as 
 " trade " is the most precious thing, " trade goods " are 
 always expected as payment for a wife. Hence their bravery 
 as hunters ; for ivory is one of the chief articles they send 
 down to the coast ; and though, after a hunt like that before 
 related, the meat is shared, the ivory belongs to those who 
 killed the animal, who have, however, to divide the proceeds 
 with their immediate relatives. Copper and brass rings, 
 white beads, and the copper pans called neptuues on the 
 coast, are the chief articles of trade which are a legal tender 
 for a wife among the Fans. 
 
 When a wedding is in prospect the friends of the happy 
 couple spend many days in obtaining and laying in great 
 stores of provisions — chiefly smoked elephant-meat and 
 palm-wine. They engage hunters to keep up the supply, 
 and accumulate enough to feed the great numbers who are 
 expected to come. When all is ready, the whole town as- 
 sembles, and, without any ceremony, but merely as a public 
 sale, as it were, the father hands his daughter to her husband, 
 who has generally already paid her price. 
 
 The " happy pair " are, of course, dressed finely for the 
 occasion. The bridegroom is attiied in a feather head-dress 
 of glowing colours ; his body is oiled ; his teeth are black 
 and polished as ebony ; his huge knife hangs at his side ; and 
 if he can kill a leopard or panther, or other rare animal, its 
 skin is wrapped about his middle in a graceful way. The 
 bride is very simply dressed, or rather she is (like all the 
 Fan women) not dressed at all. But for this occasion 
 she is ornamented with as many bracelets as she can get, 
 
Chap. VIII. CANNIBALISM. 77 
 
 of brass or copper, and wears ber woolly locks full of white 
 beads. 
 
 When all are assembled, and the bride is handed over to 
 her lord, a general jollification ensues, which lasts sometimes 
 for many days. They eat elephant-meat, get tipsy on palm- 
 wine, dance, sing, and seem to enjoy themselves veiy much, 
 until at la>t wine grows scarce, and the crowd returns to an 
 involuntary s )briety. 
 
 While I was talking to the king some Fans brought in a 
 dead body which they had bought in a neighbouring town, 
 and which was now to be divided. J could see that the man 
 had died of some disease. I confess I could not bear to stay 
 for the cutting up of the body, but retreated when all was 
 ready. It made me feel sick. I remained till the infernal 
 scene was about to begin, and then retreated. Afterwards I 
 could hear them from my, house growing noisy over the 
 division. 
 
 Eating the bodies of persons who have died of sickness is a 
 form of cannibalism of which I had never heard among any 
 people, so that I determined to inquire if it were indeed a 
 general custom among the Fans, or merely an exceptional 
 freak. They spoke without embarrassment about the whole 
 matter, and I was informed that they constantly buy the dead 
 'of the Osheba tribe, who, in return, buy theirs. They also 
 buy the dead of other families in their own tribes, and, besides 
 this, get the bodies of a great many slaves from the Mbichos 
 and Mbondemos, for which they readily give ivory, at the 
 rate of a small tusk for a body. 
 
 Until to-day I never could believe two stories — both well 
 authenticated, but seeming quite impossible to anyone unac- 
 (jTiainted with this people — which are told of them on the 
 Gaboon. A party of Fans who came down to the sea-shore 
 once actually stole a freshly-buried body from the cemetery, 
 and cooked it and ate it among them ; and at another time a 
 party conveyed a body into' the woods, cut it up, and smoked 
 the flesh, which they carried away with them. The circum- 
 stances caused a great fuss among the Mpongwe, and even the 
 missionaries heard of it, for it happened at a village not far 
 from the missionary grounds, but I never credited the stories 
 1 
 
78 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. VITI. 
 
 till now, though the facts wore well authenticated by 
 witnesses.* In fact, the Fan seem regular ghouls, only they 
 practise their horrid custom unblushingly and in ojDen day, 
 and have no shame about it. I have seen here knives 
 covered with human skin, which their owners valued very 
 highly. 
 
 To-day the queen brought me some boiled plantain, which 
 looked very nice ; but the fear lest she should have cooked it 
 in some pot where a man had been cooked before — which was 
 most likely the case^ — made me unable to eat it. On these 
 journeys I have fortunately taken with me sufficient pots to 
 do my own cooking. 
 
 They are the finest, bravest-looking set of negroes I have 
 seen in the interior, and eating human flesh seems to agree 
 with them, though I afterwards saw other Fan tribes whose 
 members had not the fine air of these mountaineers. As 
 everywhere else, locality seems to have much to do with it. 
 These were living among the mountains, and had all the 
 appearance of hardy mountaineers. 
 
 The strangest thing about the Fans (next to their hideous 
 cannibalism) is their constant encroachments upon the land 
 westward. Year by year tribes' of Fan are found nearer the 
 sea-shore ; town after town is being settled by them on the 
 banks of the Gaboon ; and in the country between the Gaboon ' 
 and the Moondah they have come down to within a few 
 miles of Point Obendo. In fact, they seem a stirring race, 
 and more enterprising than the Bakalai, Mbondemo, Mbicho, 
 and even the Mpongwe ; and I think will leave these 
 gradually behind and take possession themselves of the whole 
 line of sea-shore. 
 
 It has been supposed that these Fans are, in fact, the 
 Giagld or Jaga, who formerly invaded the kingdom of Congo, 
 
 * Those stories seem so incredible, and even the fact that these people 
 actually buy and cat the corpses of their neighbours — resting as it does 
 upon my statement alone — has excited so much evident disbelief among 
 friends in this country to whom I have mentioned this custom, that 1 am 
 very glaiJ to be able to avail myself of the concurrent testimony of a friend, 
 the Rev. Mr. Walker, of the Gaboon mission, who authorises me to say 
 that he vouches for the entire truth of the two stories above related. 
 
Chap. VIII. IRON-WORKING. 79 
 
 and who seem to have been a similar people. The fact is, 
 however, that in my later jo\iriieys to the head-waters of 
 the Nazareth, and into the interior, south of the present 
 location of the Fans, I could find no tribes who knew any- 
 thing of such a peojsle. Now, the migration of the Fans is so 
 slow a process that, whichever way they move, it is impossible 
 they should not be remembered by the tribes among whose 
 villages they have scattered their own ; and were they 
 indeed the Jaga of the south, I must have come on their 
 traces somewhere. Moreover, all the Fans, when asked 
 whence they came, point to the north-east, or east-north-east. 
 No matter how many different men or villages you j)ut this 
 question to, the answer is alwaj's the same. 
 
 The Fans tattoo themselves more than any of the other 
 tribes I have met north of the equator, but not so much as 
 Some to the south. The men are less disfigured in this waj' 
 than the women, who take great pride in having their 
 breasts and abdomen entirely covered with the blue lines 
 and curves. Their cheeks also are full}' marked in various 
 figures, and this, with the immense copper and iron rings 
 which weigh down the lobes of their ears, gives them a 
 hideous appearance. 
 
 They have considerable ingenuity in manufacturing iron. 
 The articles of trade which they wish for most seem to be 
 white beads — used for ornaments everywhere in this p)art of 
 Africa — and vessels of copper and brass. The " nejitune " — 
 a plate of yellow copper, which has long been one of the 
 standard articles of trade imported hither by the mercliants, 
 and which is found very far in the interior — the Fans cut up, 
 and it seems to pass as a kind of medium of exchange. 
 
 Iron ore is found in considerable quantities through the 
 Fan countiy cropping out at the surface. They do not dig 
 into the ground for it, but gather what lies about. To get 
 the iron they build a huge pile of wood, heap on this a con- 
 siderable quantity of the ore broken up, then comes more 
 wood, and then fire is applied to the whole. As it burns 
 away, wood is thrown on continually, till at last they per- 
 ceive, by certain signs, that they have made the iron fluid. 
 All is then permitted to cool, and they have now cast iron. 
 
80 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. YIII- 
 
 To make this malleable and give it temper, tliey put it 
 through a most tedious series of heatings and hammerings, 
 till at last they turn out a very superior article of iron and 
 steel, much better than that which is brought to them from 
 Europe. It is a fact that, to make their best knives and 
 arrow-heads, they will not use the European or American 
 iron, but prefer their own. And many of their knives and 
 
 FAN BLACKSMITHS. 
 
 swords are really very finely made, and, for a rude race, 
 beaiitifully ornamented with scroll-work on the blades. 
 
 As blacksmiths, they very far surpass all the tribes of this 
 region who have not come in contact with the whites. 
 Their warlike habits have made iron a most necessary article 
 to them ; and though their tools are very simple, their 
 patience is great, and, as the reader will perceive from the 
 
Chap. VIII. SKILFUL WORKMEN. 81 
 
 pictures of their arms, they produce some very neat work- 
 manship. 
 
 The forge is set up anywhere where a fire can be built. 
 They have invented a singular bellows, composed of two 
 short, hollowed cylinders of wood, surmounted by skins 
 accurately iitted on, and having an appropriate valve and a 
 wooden handle. The bellows-man sits down, and moves 
 these coverings up and down with great rapidity, and the air 
 is led through small wooden pipes into an iron joint which 
 emerges in the fire. 
 
 The anvil is a solid piece of iron of the shape seen in the 
 illustration. The sharp end is stuck iuto the ground, and 
 the blackfsmith sits alongside of his anvil and beats the iron 
 with a singular hammer, which is simply a piece of iron 
 weighing from three to six pounds, and in shape a truncated 
 cone. It has no handle, but is held by the smaller end, and, 
 of course, the blows require much more strenglh. It is a 
 little curious that, with all their ingenuity, they should 
 not have discovered so simple a thing as a handle for a 
 hammer. 
 
 Time is of no value to a Tan, and the careful blacksmith 
 spends often many days and even weeks over the manufacture 
 of a small knife, while weeks and months are used to turn 
 out a finished war-knife, spear, or brain-hatchet. The small, 
 graceful, and often intricate lines with which the surfaces of 
 all tlieir best weapons are very beautifully ornamented are 
 all made by the hand and a chisel-like instrument, stiuck 
 with the hammer. They evince a correct eye, and a gond 
 deal of artistic taste. 
 
 They have also some skill in for]ning pottery, though the 
 onlj' objects of clay they use are the cooking-pot and the jiipe. 
 The former is in shape much like our common iron cooking- 
 pot. It is remarkable chiefly for the very regular shape they 
 give it merely by hand, for of the lathe they are, of course, 
 ignorant. When the clay is moulded it is set in the sun to 
 dry, and afterwards thoroughly baked in the fire. Pipes are 
 made in the same way, but the stems are always of wood. 
 Many of the Tan had iron pipes, which they seemed to prefer 
 to those of clay. 
 
82 EQUATORIAL AFIIIGA. CnAr. VIII. 
 
 Water is carried or kept in gourds, and in jugs made of a 
 kind of reed tightly woven and afterward coated with a kind 
 of glim. Tliis gum is first softeued in the fire, and then 
 thickly laid over the outside of the vessel. When completed, 
 
 FAN POTTERY. 
 
 1. Cobking-pot. 2. Water-jar. 3. Palra-wiiio Dottle 
 
 it forms a durable, water-tight vessel; but it is necessary, 
 before using it, to keep it standing in water for a fortnight, 
 to take away the disagreeable taste of the gum. 
 
 FAN PIPES. 
 
 They smoke leaves which looked to me like a kind of wild 
 tobacco, and which seem to grow p)lentifully here. 
 
 The meat of the elephant is their chief subsistence, while 
 tlie ivory is their only export ai'ticle, and, therefore, very 
 important to thoin, as thereby they get their brass, copper, 
 
Chap. VIII. FEVITS AND VEGETABLES. 83 
 
 kettles, looking-glasses, flints, fire-steels, and beads, wliiuli 
 have become almost necessities to tliem. Of all these, how- 
 ever, they set the greatest value on copper and brass. 
 
 Tlieir agricultural operations are very rude, and differ but 
 little from those of the surrounding tribes. Like them, they 
 cut down ihe trees and brush to make a clearing, burn 
 everything that is cut down, and then plant their crop in 
 the cleared space. The only agricultural instrument they 
 have is a kind of heavy knife or cutlass, which serves in 
 place of an axe to cut down trees, and for many other pur- 
 poses, such as digging the holes in which they plant their 
 manioc or plantains. 
 
 Their staple food is the manioc, a very useful plant, because 
 it yields a large return, and is more substantial food than the 
 plantain. It is cultivated by cuttings ; and one little stem, 
 stuck carelessly into the ground in their manner, produces in 
 a season two or three large roots the size of a yam. They 
 also boil the leaves and eat them, and they make excellent 
 " greens." 
 
 Besides manioc they have plantains, two or three kinds of 
 yams, splendid sugar-cane, and squashes, all of which they 
 cultivate with considerable success; but the manioc is the 
 favourite. Enormous quantities of squashes are raised, chiefly 
 for the seeds, which, when pounded and prepared as they 
 know how to do, are much prized by them, and by me too. 
 At a certain season, when the squash is ripe, their villages 
 seem covered with the seeds, which everybody spreads out to 
 dry. When dried, they are packed in leaves and placed over 
 the fireplaces in the smoke, to keep off an insect which also 
 likes them. The process of preparation is very tedious. A 
 portion of seeds is boiled, and each seed is divested of its 
 skin. Then the mass of pulp is put into a rude wooden 
 mortar and pounded, a vegetable oil being mixed with it. 
 When all is well mixed, a portion is finally cooked over a 
 charcoal fire, either in an earthen pot or in a plantain leaf. 
 It is then very sweet, and I think nourishing, and certainly 
 quite pleasant. 
 
 Of the mortars above mentioned every Fan family pos- 
 Besses at least one. They are of wood, and are in fact 
 
84 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. VIII. 
 
 troughs, being two feet long by two or three inches deep 
 and eight wide. Besides these, every village owns and uses 
 in common two or three immense mortars (also of wood), 
 which are needed to pulverize the manioc-root. When it is 
 reduced to flour it is made into little cakes, which may be 
 kept for several days. They are also very fond of led 
 pepper, which plant is found in abundance near all the 
 villages. 
 
 While on the subject of food, I ought to say that they do 
 not sell the bodies of their chiefs, kings, or great men. These 
 receive burial ; and consequently they do not eat every body 
 that dies. It may be that when people die of some peculiar 
 disease they are not eaten. 
 
 Slavery does not seem very prominent among them, though 
 a great many of the Fans themselves are yearly sold for 
 slaves to the coast traders on account of witchcraft accusa- 
 tions, debts, adultery, &c. 
 
 So vague and unsatisfactory were the rumours I heard of 
 country and people in the farther interior that I shall nut 
 make any guess at the condition of that vast region. Only 
 I think it quite likely that, as the Fan and Osheba tribes 
 point eastward as the place of their origin, their manners 
 and customs, with such knowledge as they have of iron and 
 of poison, and such changes in life as the different circum- 
 stances of the country may necessitate, may be characteristic 
 of the tribes beyond. 
 
 On September 10th, Ndiayai, the king, took me over to- 
 an Osheba town some miles away, whose king was his friend. 
 The town, the people, the arrangements, eveiything looked 
 just as in the Fan town. I should not have known they 
 were of a different tribe had not Ndiayai assured me it whs 
 so. I imagine they wre not very far apart, however. Like 
 the Fans, the Osheba look warlike, and are tall ; their women 
 are smaller, and hideously ugl3', and tattooed all over their 
 bodies. A large part of their intercourse with the Fan 
 village consists in the interchange of dead bodies, and I saw 
 as many human bones lying about the Osheba village as 
 among the Fans. 
 
 King Bunbakai, the Osheba chief, seeing that his friend 
 
Chap. VIII. DARE NOT GO FVIiTIIEB INLAND. 85 
 
 Ndiayai did not die after having seen me, decided to come 
 out and have a look at me himself. He was a sociable old 
 fellow, dressed iu the Fan style, and every way acting as a 
 Fan king might. We stayed with him several days, as I 
 had come in gieat part to see what lay farther east toward 
 the interior, and how I should get farther. But I was now 
 come to my ultima thule. After every inquiry, made with 
 the help of mj^ Mbondemo followers, I could get only this 
 information : — that beyond the Osheba village, two or three 
 days' journey off, there lived other tribes, also cannibals, 
 whose names my informants did not know. It was said, 
 however, that they were warlike, and used poisoned arrows. 
 AVhen I desired to advance in that direction the pieople 
 seemed unwilling, even afraid, to accompany me ; assuring 
 me that on account of the wars at present in existence be- 
 tween tribes there, any party attempting to visit either side 
 would run the risk of being waylaid with poisoned arrows 
 by the other. 
 
 I had a great desire to go on, but confess that these stories 
 and some other considerations cooled my ardour. I was 
 completely at the mercy of the Fans, tind should be still 
 more so if I advanced, for Mbene's men would not go farthei'. 
 And I could not forget that the Fans, though apparently well 
 disposed toward me, had a great penchant for human iiesh, 
 and might — by one of those curious freaks which our tastes 
 play us — be seized by a passionate desire to taste me. To 
 fall sick among them would be to tempt them severely and 
 unjustifiably. Then I had not goods enough to carry me 
 among a strange people and also bring me back ; and I feared 
 that, left in poverty, I should fail to receive among them the 
 respect and obedience which the beads, tobacco, and powder, 
 copper and brass rings of a white man always obtain for liim. 
 Moreover, the Fan language is such a collection of throat 
 sounds that I not only could not got to understand it, but 
 could not for some time distinguish any words. The Osheba 
 is yet worse ; and harsher, ruder, or more guttural sounds I 
 never heard made. Now, as Mbene's men would not go with 
 me, nor even stay long here, I was like to be left without an 
 interpreter; and to go among any new tribes beyond the 
 
86 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. VIII. 
 
 mountaius entirely unable to hold communication with them 
 would have been labour almost altogether in vain. I there- 
 fore determined to make some longer stay with King Ndiayai, 
 and then return by a new route to the seashore. 
 
 The Fans are a very sujjerstitious people. Witchcraft 
 seems to be a very common thing to be accused of among 
 them, and the death-penalty is sternly executed. They set 
 little value on life ; and-as the dead body has its commercial 
 value, this consideration too, probably', has its weight in 
 passing sentence of death. 
 
 Polygamy is a fertile source of quarrels and bloodshed 
 among them. 
 
 They have a great reverence for charms and fetiches, 
 and even the little children are covered with these talis- 
 mans, duly consecrated bj' the doctor or greegree man of the 
 tribe. They place especial value on charms which are sup- 
 posed to liave the power to protect their owner in battle. 
 Chief among these is an iron chain, of which the links are 
 an inch and a half long by an inch wide. This is worn over 
 the loft shoulder, and hanging down the right side. Besides 
 this, and next to it in value, is a small bag, which is sus- 
 [jended round the nock or to the side of the warrior. This 
 bag is made of the skin of some rare animal, and contains 
 various fragments of others, such as dried monkeys' tails, 
 the bowels and claws of other beasts, shells, feathers of 
 birds, and ashes of varions beasts. All these are of the 
 rarer animals, in order that there may not be too many 
 charms of one kind, which would diminish their value and 
 power. 
 
 The chief village of each clan of the Fans has a huge 
 idol, to whose tem25le all that family gather at certain periods 
 to worship. This worship consists of rude dances and singing. 
 The idol-houses are mostly surrounded by a number of skulls 
 of wild animals, prominent among which I recognized the 
 skull of the gorilla. To take away or disturb these skulls 
 would be counted sacrilege, and worthy of death. I do not 
 think they offer human sacrifices. 
 
 Tlic non-cannibal tribes do not intermari-y with their 
 cannibal neighbours, as their peculiar practices are held in 
 
Chap. VIII. BACK TO THE COAST. 87 
 
 too great abhorrence. Trade is, however, likely to break 
 down this barrier. Within two or three years the ivory of 
 the Fans has so far excited the cujaidity of their neighbours 
 that two or three chiefs, among whom Mbene was one, have 
 been glad to take Fan girls to wife, in order thus to get the 
 influence of a Fan father-in-law. The poor Fans, who are 
 farthest of all from the coveted white trade, are but too glad 
 to got a son-in law nearer the seashore ; and I have little 
 doubt but in a few j'ears they will even succeed in inter- 
 marrying with other tribes to a considerable extent. 
 
 The Fan have left the impression upon me of being the 
 most promising peoiDle in all Western Africa. They treated 
 me with unvarying hospitality and kindness ; and they seem 
 to have more of that kind of stamina which enables a rude 
 people to receive a strange civilization than any other tribe 
 I know of in Africa. Energetic, fierce, warlike, decidedly 
 possessing both courage and ingenuity, they are disagreeable 
 enemies ; and I think it most probable that the great family 
 or nation of which they are but a small offshoot, and who 
 should inhabit the mountainous range which subsequent 
 explorations convince me extends nearly if not quite across 
 the continent — that these mountaineers have stayed in its 
 course the great sweep of Mohammedan conquest in this part 
 of Africa. 
 
 FAN SPOON. 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 B;ick to the coast— King Mbene gets a cannibal wife— The Fans regret 
 my rk-piirlure— Gond-bye to the Pans and their mountains— The rains 
 —Leopards — Mbirlio villages — The Noya River— Wanga— King 
 Alaj.ay- Hiintingwitb nets— Ferocious ants— The great forest— Over 
 a mangrove swamp — A big snake. 
 
 We now began to make ready for our return to the sea. I 
 was to go as far as his village with Mbene, and thence take 
 
88 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap, IX. 
 
 my new route. Mbene had since our arrival obtained a 
 daughter of King Ndiayai for his wife; a point of great 
 exultation to this politic old negro, who rejoiced that so rare 
 an honour should fall to him, and hoped to receive large 
 consignments of ivory from his father-in-law's people, on 
 which he would pocket a profitable percentage. 
 
 The Fans seemed very sorry that I was about to leave 
 thom, and all expressed a wish for my return. Ndiayai gave 
 me a native knife as a token of remembrance, which was aS 
 much as receiving a be-diamonded snuff-box from another 
 sovereign — for knives are precious in Africa. I offered a 
 large price to another man for a superb knife he had, but 
 could not get it. His father had given it to him, he said, 
 and he could not part with it. 
 
 So at last we were fully ready, and left the Fans and their 
 mountains. These mountains have a climate which is by no 
 means African in the popular conception. Since we have 
 been here we have had rain during every night ; and it has 
 been so much clouded that I do not think the sun has shone 
 clearly for three consecutive hours on any day in as many 
 weeks. The country seems well watered, and the soil is 
 exceedingly fertile. The climate is, of course, much healthier 
 than it is on the rivers near the coast, and the people in 
 consequence are more robust and energetic. 
 
 The warriors of this part of Africa — with the exception of 
 the Fans and Osheba — are not overstocked with courage. 
 They applaud tricks that are inhumanly cruel and cowardly, 
 and seem to be quite incapable of open hand-to-hand fight. 
 To surprise man, woman, or child in sleep, and kill them 
 then ; to lie in ambush in the woods for a solitary man, and 
 kill liim by a single spear-thrust before he can defend him- 
 self; to wayliiy a woman going to the spring for water, and 
 kill her ; or to attack on the river a canoe much smaller and 
 weaker than the attackers : these are the warlike feats 1 have 
 heard most praised and seen oftenest done in this part of 
 Africa. 
 
 The rainy season had by this time (September) fairly set 
 in in these mountains, and the thunder, lightning, and heavy 
 showers are common both day and night. We find great 
 
Chap. IX. THE NOYA RIVER. 89 
 
 comfort in using the shelters erected and conscientiously kept 
 in repair by the caravans or trading-parties of negroes who 
 pass over this track. They give at least some shelter from 
 the everlasting rains. We have found them kept in good 
 repair wherever we have been. It is customary for every 
 party to do what repairs are necessary. 
 
 On our way back we saw many elephant-tracks, but no 
 animals. 
 
 At night the cries of leopards often awoke me ; but 
 they were not very near us, our fires probalily keeping them 
 off. I had four distinct fires about my shed, and these I 
 now carefully poked u[i and fed, that no hungry leopard 
 might be tempted to rush acro.ss the lines ; and then returned 
 to sleep. 
 
 One day we saw a strange water-snako, whoso body was 
 black, with rings of bright yellow along the whole length. 
 My men were much alarmed when they saw it, for they said 
 its bite was mortal ; they tried to kill it with their spears, 
 but it managed to escape them. They told me that besides 
 being poisonous it was very good to eat, and gave as a caution 
 that the head must be cut off immediately it is killed, in order, 
 I suppose, to prevent its fangs from fastening on any part of 
 the bodj'. 
 
 At last, after some hard travelling, the forest being very 
 dense, and often swampy, while numerous streams, bridgeless, 
 of course, had to be crossed on crazy hjgs, we came to a 
 small creek leading into the Noj'a, which was only two or 
 three hundred yards distant. We seized on two canoes we 
 found empty, and as these would not hold all our party, I 
 put in all my goods and as many men as I could make room 
 for, and made the others promise to wait till we sent a canoe 
 for them, which was likely to be soon. Sure enough, scarce 
 had we emerged into the Noya (a noble stream, refreshing to 
 look upon after the wretched creeks which had boon crossed 
 for two days at very frequent intervals), than we met a couple 
 of women fishing in two canoes. I promised them some 
 leaves of tobacco if they would go and bring along the men, 
 and they were only too glad to do so. 
 
 Thus we descended the Noya. The banks here are clothed 
 
90 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IX 
 
 with trees of a pleasant shape and a dark evergreen verdure, 
 which made a favourable contrast to the immense gloomy 
 mangrove-swamps which line all these rivers near the sea- 
 shore. Here and there we saw little native villages 
 peeping through the woods, looking so quiet and pleasant 
 that for the moment I could forget the horrors of witch- 
 craft and other cruelties which rule even in these peaceful 
 groves. 
 
 Towards afternoon we came to the village of a chief named 
 Wanga, Mbene's friend, who had sent a message to me to 
 stop at his place on my way down. We were received with 
 acclamation ; all the joeople turned out to see me, and there 
 was the usual singing, dancing, and cutting capers. The. 
 chief took me immediately to his own house, the best in the 
 town ; but I was not destined to remain quiet, for presently 
 the house and all the neighbourhood began to fill up with 
 people eager to take a look at me. I was this time doubly a 
 hero ; for they had heard of my trip to the Fan country, and 
 had prophesied that I should be killed and eaten by those 
 terrible people, of whom all these tribes seem to stand in 
 great awe. Now that I was come back in safety, they openly 
 proclaimed that I must be the lucky owner of a fetich of very 
 remarkable powers. The king complimented me on my safe 
 return, and asked why I cared to see the cannibals and go to 
 their country. 
 
 When I answered that I went there to shoot birds and 
 animals strange to me, there went up a general shout of 
 astonishment, and I fear I lost some of the confidence and 
 admiration of the hearers, for they could scarce give credence 
 to what appeared so foolish. Nevertheless, Wanga invited 
 me to stay as long as I pleased with him. 
 
 Next morning I noticed the beautiful situation of Wanga's 
 village, which I had been too weary to appreciate the night 
 before. It lay on the edge of a steep bank overhanging the 
 Noya. Immediately behind the town was a heavy forest of 
 grand old trees, many of vast size, both for height and 
 thickness. The undergrowth was tolerably dense, and huge 
 vines stretched from tree to tree, like gigantic snakes. 
 
 I spent several days in the villages near here, and was 
 
Chap. IX. KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES. 91 
 
 everj'where received with kindness and also with curiosity. 
 The natives had never seen a white man before, and, of 
 course were full of surprise, and alarm too, for a time. 
 Others, who were more experienced, asked curious questions 
 about the manners and customs of the white people. When 
 I told them that a man was put into prison for having two 
 wives, both men and women set up a shout of wonder, but 
 seemed to think that, though the white man's country must 
 be a great country, the white men were themselves more 
 lucky than wise. 
 
 Wauga had promised me a new set of guides if I would 
 stay some days with him ; accordingly, I sent Mbene's men 
 back, ■with proper acknowledgments, and prepared for a start 
 with my new guides. 
 
 We were to go down the Noya for a few miles and then 
 take the laud, leaving our canoes to return. 
 
 I wanted very much to go off privately, but that would 
 not do. The king and the whole village, male and female, 
 about two hundred people, came down to bid mo good-bye, 
 and 1 had to shake hands all round, which took more time 
 than I cared to spare for the j^urposo. But it was the last 
 pleasure I was ever likely to do to a jseople who had received 
 me with very great kindness. One feels a strange softness 
 about the heart on leaving ono of these simple African 
 villages, where, a stranger in a strange land, he has yet been 
 treated kindly, and all his wants supplied. The people seem 
 really sorry to see j'ou go ; and as you leave, thinking that 
 in all human probability you will never meet these kind 
 people again, you feel sorrier than you expected. 
 
 We descended the Noya for a few miles, hailed at every 
 turn by the inhabitants of villages who wished us to stop ; 
 and then abandoned our canoes and took to the land. For 
 some miles it was very swampy, and the loads of my men 
 made travelling difficult and tedious. I had now with me 
 the entire results of this expedition, and this formed no light 
 burden, even for the stout, finely-made negro fellows I had. 
 The people along the Noya are a fine-looking race, not above, ■ 
 but up to, the " middle height," with rather intelligent 
 features, and not very black. They, seem to live very happily 
 
92 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IX 
 
 in their villages, though, of course, all the vices and 
 superstitions of Africa infect them, and often make brutes 
 of them. 
 
 Presently we came to high land, and then the landscape 
 regained somewhat of the beauty it had about Wanga's 
 village, while we were able to push ahead faster over the 
 solid ground. Towards sunset we reached a place called 
 Ezongo, where the inhabitants, seeing our heavy loads, and 
 supposing that I brought them vast and unheard-of amounts 
 of trade, turned out with the greatest amount of enthusiasm 
 to welcome me. 
 
 Their ardour cooled sourewhat when they learned the 
 contents of my packages, and I found in the course of the 
 evening that the rascally chief or king of Ezongo, thinking 
 I must place a great value on things I had gone so far to 
 get, had determined to hold me till I paid a heavy price to 
 get away. 
 
 I was very angry at this outrage ; and for a while things 
 looked as though I should have trouble. I determined .not 
 to submit to an imposition which would leave me empty- 
 handed and defenceless, even if it would have answered to let 
 any one of these fellows impose on me under any circum- 
 stances. There seemed likely to be a palaver. I determined 
 to fight for my rights, but was, of course, anxious to get all 
 settled peaceably. The king, urged on by his people, who 
 seemed a greedy set of rascals, insisted on his price. At last, 
 my Mbicho guides from the Noya tried to settle the matter. 
 They were wise enough to get the king to come to me with 
 them alone. I gave the rascal a coat and an old shirt, and 
 told him what was literally true — that I was very poor, and 
 could not pay what his people wanted, and that he must be 
 on my side. He went out at once and harangued the turbu- 
 lent extortioners. I watched the result with considerable 
 anxiety ; but at last, seeing that he would succeed, paid my 
 Wanga-town guides, and prepared to set out for Yoongoolapay, 
 a village whose chief I had seen on the coast some time 
 before, when he made me promise to pay him a visit on my 
 return from the interior. 
 
 I was now commercially so reduced that I had only a few 
 
Chap. IX. ASHIGA-EDNTING. 93 
 
 white beads left to pay to my guides, and was gla,d onough 
 to be gettiug down towards the territory of a man who knew 
 me, and would probably trust me. 
 
 We arrived at our destination late in the afternoon, and 
 were received with great demonstrations of joj'. My old 
 friend, King Alapay, was very glad to see me, and ashed me 
 to stay some days, which, being very much worn out with 
 constant exposure and anxieties, I determined to do. His 
 village is situated ripon a high hill overlooking the sur- 
 rounding country, and a beautiful stream skirts the foot of 
 the hill. 
 
 A considerable number of independent Mbicho villages lie 
 here within a circuit of a few miles, and live in great har- 
 mony with each other, all having pi'udently intermarried to 
 such a degree that they are really one large faniilj'. I was 
 made welcome among them all, and spent some very pleasant 
 days in hunting, and particularly in that kind of sport called 
 here ashiga-hunting, or net-hunting — a practice very common 
 among the Bakalai tribes. 
 
 This singular sport is very much practised in this pai't of 
 Africa, and, as it is generally successful, is a local amusement, 
 and brings out the best traits of the natives. I was always 
 very fond of it. 
 
 The nets are made of the fibre of the pine-a23ple plant, and 
 also with the fibres of a kind of tree, which are twisted into 
 stout threads. They are from sixty to eighty feet long and 
 four to five feet high, and every village owns several. But 
 as few villages have sufficient to make a great spread, gene- 
 rally several unite in one grand hunt and divide the proceeds : 
 the game caught in any net being the share of its owners. 
 
 The first day we went out, half-a-dozen villages met 
 together at an appointed place, the men of each bringing 
 their nets. Then we set off for a spot about ten miles off, 
 where they had a clearing in the dense woods which had 
 been used before. We moved along in silence, so as not to 
 alarm the animals who might be near our ground. The dogs 
 — for dogs are used for this hunt — were kept still and clo.se 
 together. 
 
 Finally we arrived on the ground, and the work of 
 
94 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IX. 
 
 spreading the toils began. Each party stretched a single 
 net, tying it up by vines to the lower branches of trees ; but 
 as all worked in one direction, and each took care to join his 
 and his neighbour's net together, we in a very short time had 
 a line of netting running in a wide half-circle, and at least 
 half-a-mile long. 
 
 This done, a party went out on each side to guard the 
 sides and prevent escape, and the rest of us were then ready 
 to beat the bush. We started at about a mile from the nets, 
 and, standing about fifty yards from each other, advanced 
 gradually, shouting and making what noise we could, at the 
 same time keeping our guns in readiness to bring down any- 
 thing which should come in our way. The sport would 
 have been less exhausting had not the jungle been so dense. 
 Though this very spot was frequently used for net-hunting, 
 and therefore more cleared than the neighbouring wilder 
 wood, yet we were obliged to proceed almost step by step, 
 and every native was armed, besides his gnn, with a kind of 
 heavy cutlass or machete, with which it was necessary literally 
 to hew out a way, the vines making a net- work which only 
 the beasts of the forests could glide through without trouble. 
 
 As we advanced, so did the men who guarded the flanks, 
 and thus our party gradually closed on the prey, and presently 
 we began to hear shots. I heard the shots, but could see 
 nothing, and had only to hold my own gun in readiness, and 
 pray that my neighbour might not shoot me by mistake ; for 
 they are fearfully reckless when on a chase. 
 
 At last we came in sight of the nets. We had caught a 
 gazelle of a very minute size — a pretty little animal — which 
 does not grow to be larger than a pointer. It is very grace- 
 ful, and ought to make a pretty pet, though I have never 
 seen one tamed. There were several other little quadrupeds, 
 and a large antelope was held and shot before I came up ; 
 and another antelope, being shot at and missed, rushed for- 
 vrard and got entangled in the net. 
 
 Having drawn this cover, we gathered up the nets and the 
 dogs — who enjoyed the sport vastly — and walked oif to try 
 another place. 
 
 I do not wonder at all at the bad shots the natives make. 
 
Chap. IX. , BASBIKOUAY-ANTS. 95 
 
 Wlierever I have been among theni my sliots liave excited 
 astonisliraeiit ; and this not so much because my guns are 
 better, as because I have good powder, and thej' do not know 
 how to load a gun. The negro idea is to put in as much 
 powder as he dares, and on top of this as mucli old iron as he 
 can afford to throw away in one shot. If the powder was of 
 onlj' average strength they would blow themselves to pieces, 
 but the traders on the coast make it very mild by adultera- 
 tions ; and I have actually seen bits of iron of various shapes 
 rammed into a gun till it was loaded to within a few inches 
 of the muzzle. Consequently, the recoil is heavy ; they dare 
 not hold the guns to their shoulders, and blaze away very 
 much at a venture. 
 
 Walking over to another part of the forest, about three- 
 quarters of an hour distant, we again spread our nets. Here 
 we had better luck, catching a number (if antelopes, deer, 
 and some smaller animals. This seemed enough for one day, 
 of which I was very glad, for I was tired out. 
 
 Before breaking up, all the game caught was had together, 
 that all might see it. And now I had opportunity to notice 
 the curious little dogs, alioirt a foot high, and sharp-eared, 
 who had been of such material assistance driving the animals 
 into our toils. They were standing looking at their prizes 
 with eager and hungry eyes. They do not look very in- 
 telligent, but are of the greatest use in this sport, because 
 when they bark the game is never far off, and thus they warn 
 the hunters. Often i hey go out on hunts for themselves ; 
 and it is no unusual thing for half-a-dozen dogs to drive an 
 antelope to the neighbourhood of their village, where they 
 give tongue, and the hunters come out and kill their quarry. 
 
 I was glad to go to sleep early, but was scarce soundly 
 asleep when I was turned out of the house by a furii.us 
 attack of the hashilcouay ants. They vv^ere already all over 
 me when I jumped up, and I was bitten tcrriblj'. I ran out 
 into the street and called for lielp. The natives came out, 
 and lights were struck, and presently I was relieved. But 
 now we found that the whole village was attacked. The 
 great army was pouring in on us, doubtless excited by the 
 smell of meat in the houses ; and my unfortunate antelope 
 
96 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. IX. 
 
 had probably brought them to my door. All hands had to 
 turn out for defence. We built little cordons of fire, which 
 kept them away fiom places they had not yet entered, and 
 thus protected our persons from their attacks ; and towards 
 morning, having eaten everything they could get at, they 
 left us in peace. As was to be expected, I found my antelope 
 destroyed — literally eaten up. 
 
 The vast number, the sudden appearance, the ferocity and 
 voracity of these frightful insects never cease to astonish 
 me. Last night they poured in literally by millions and 
 billions, and only when many fires were lighted were they 
 forced from that direct and victorious course which they 
 o-enerally hold. Then, however, they retreated in parties, 
 and with the greatest regularity, vast numbers remaining to 
 complete the work of destruction. 
 
 The negroes of the villages differ but little fiom those on 
 the coast, except that they are dirtier. The women seem to 
 lay on the oil and red earth thicker than their husbands ; 
 seem to wear dirtier cloths about their middles, and are 
 actually less endurable when gathered in a crowd about a 
 fire, as is their wont, than the men. 
 
 I noticed a custom or superstition which is common to all 
 the tribes I have visited, and the reason or supposed reason 
 for which I have never been able to jsersuade any one to tell 
 me. On the first night when the new moon is visible all is 
 kept silent in the village ; nobody sjjeaks but in an under- 
 tone ; and in the course of the evening King Alapay came 
 out of his house and danced along the street, his face and 
 body painted in black, red, and white, and spotted all over 
 with spots the size of a peach. In the dim moonlight he had 
 a frightful appearance, which made me shudder at first. I 
 asked him why he painted thus, but he only answered by 
 pointing to the moon, without speaking a word. 
 
 There are other and varying ceremonies in different tribes 
 to welcome the new moon ; \>\\t in all the men mark their 
 bodies with charmed chalk or ochre ; and no one has ever 
 been prevailed on to tell me the meaning of the rites or the 
 particulars of the belief. I suppose the common men do not 
 know it themselves. 
 
Chap. IX. CROSSING A MANGROVE-SWAMP. 97 
 
 Our path lay through an immense forest — a grand soli- 
 tude, gloomy and, even at midday, unpenetrated by the sur 
 Here the silence was only made more striking by the occa 
 sional shrill scream of a parrot or the chatter of a monkey. 
 We saw no other animals, though elephant-tracks abounded. 
 
 The biggest ivory of the coast comes from this belt under 
 the equator. I have seen a tusk whose weiglit was 110 
 pounds, but this was an extraordinary instance ; the most 
 weigh from twenty to fifty pounds. 
 
 Alapay's /iead-wife, at his village, made me a quantity of 
 igouma, or cassava-bread, the day before we started, so that 
 with a little fish and some plantains I was not likely to 
 starve, even if \\& did not enter any villages on the way. 
 The igouma is made by pounding and making a paste of the 
 cassava. This paste when boiled becomes very thick and 
 firm, and it is then shaped into loaves a foot long and four 
 or five inches in circumference, and jsermitted to dry, when 
 it becomes hard and tough, and may be kept several weeks, 
 though it becomes sour and unfit for a civilized stomach 
 generally after two or three days. But it will not do to be 
 squeamish in Africa, which, with all its tropical richness of 
 vegetation, is as good a place to starve in as any man could 
 desire. 
 
 As we neared a stream, we came to a mangrove-swamp. 
 It was high tide, and there was not a canoe to be had. To 
 sleep on this side among the niangroves, and be eaten up by 
 mosquitoes, was not a pleasant prospect, and to me there 
 seemed no other. But my men were not troubled at all. 
 We were to cross over, quite easily too, on the roots which 
 projected over the water's edge, and which lay from two to 
 three feet apart at irregular distances. It seemed a desperate 
 venture ; but they set out, jumping like monkeys from place 
 to place, and I followed, expecting every moment to fall in 
 between and stick in the mud, perhaps to be attacked by 
 some noxious reptile whose rest my fall would disturb. I 
 had to take off my shoes, whose thick soles made me more 
 likely to slip. I gave all my baggage and guns and pistols 
 to the men, and then commenced a journey whose like I hope 
 never to take again. We were an hour in getting across — 
 
narflri 
 
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Chap. IX. A PERILOUS MARCH. 99 
 
 an hour of continual jumps and hops. In the midst of it all 
 a man behind me flopped into the mud, calling out "Omemba ! " 
 in a frightened voice. 
 
 Now, " omemba " means snake. The poor fellow had put 
 his hand on an enormous black snake, and, feeling its cold, 
 slimy scales, let go his hold and fell through. All hands 
 immediately began to run faster than before, and to shout 
 and make all kinds of noises to frighten the serpent. But 
 the poor animal also took fright, and began to crawl away 
 among the branches as fast as he could. Unfortunately, his 
 flight led him directly towards some of us ; a general panic 
 now ensued, everybofly running as fast as he could to get out 
 of the way of danger. Another man fell into the mud below, 
 and added his cries to the general noise. I came very near 
 getting a mud-bath myself, but luckily I escaped. But my 
 feet were badly cut up. 
 
 HORN AND BELL OF IRON, 
 
 TO KEEP THE DEVIL OUT. THE BELL IS SOUNDED TO DRIVE OUT THE EVIL 
 
 SPIRITS, WHILE THE GOOD ONES COME INTO THE HORN. 
 
100 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. X. 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 Journey to Cape Lopez — Princess AUerai — A plantation — Prairie land^ 
 Caught in a storm — Mpongwo canoe-builders — Large size of canoes 
 — Ogoula-Limbai — Ogoula a great elepliant liunter — Getting into 
 canoes — Our predicament — Tlie negroes great swimmers. 
 
 From the Gaboon I iDrepared myself for a trip to Cape Lopez, 
 south of the Equator. 
 
 When all was ready, I placed all my goods, and guns, and 
 ammunition in one of the immense canoes which the Mpongwe 
 make, and we started for Mbata Creek, on which lay the 
 plantation of King Eompochombo. 
 
 We entered the Mbata Creek at 4 p.m., and paddled up and 
 up, the stream growing narrower all the time, and more 
 overhung with trees, till about midnight the men had to pull 
 the canoe through the brushwood, which made more swamp 
 than creek. This brought us soon to the end of the creek, 
 and then we found ourselves on the royal plantation. 
 
 The king was at his town on the coast, but had given 
 orders to have me forwarded on to Cape Lopez, Sangatanga, 
 the chief town of the cape, being about sixty miles from 
 Mbata. 
 
 My baggage was immediately taken to the king's first 
 wife's house. Though so late, or rather now getting early, 
 the people were not asleep. It is a singular habit the 
 Africans have — they do not sleep at night, but lie about 
 their fires, and smoke and tell stories, dozing oif all day 
 afterwards. I was not surpiised, therefore, to find the 
 Princess Akerai lying, with three or four other women near 
 a huge fire (the thermometer was at 85°), smoking her pipe, 
 and saying she was glad to see me. 
 
 However, all was busy in an instant. The princess hurri( d 
 oft" to cook me some plantains and fish which her slaves were 
 preparing, and which I greatly enjoyed, for our day's joui'ney 
 had made me hungry. A fire was built in the centre of the 
 floor of the house which I was to occupy, and around this 
 several of the king's wives assembled, while the queen busied 
 herself in preparing a corner for my sleeping accommodation. 
 
Chap. X. START FOR CAPE LOPEZ. 101 
 
 For bed I had a mat — simple enougli, but not so hard for the 
 bones as the bamboo couch I had enjoyed at Mbene's or in 
 the cannibjl country ; and there was added to my mat, in this 
 case, the unusuul luxury of a mosquito netting, by help of 
 wliich I was able to enjoy a good sleep. 
 
 The village, which lies at the head of the Mbata Creek, is 
 surrounded by a fertile prairie, which was now in full culti- 
 vation. The people have a great many slaves, and the 
 women seem really to have a taste or liking for agricultural 
 operations. Here I saw on every hand, and for several miles 
 in all directions, fields of ground-nuts, jdantains, corn, sugar- 
 cane, ginger, yams, manioc, squash (a great f;ivourite with 
 all the negroes); while near their little huts were growing 
 the paw-tree, the lime, the wild orange, together with abun- 
 dance of plantains and pine-apples. 1'hey seemed even to 
 care for animals, for everywhere I saw goats and the diminu- 
 tive African chickens. 
 
 The queen rules supreme, managing everything, and or- 
 dering the labour of the slaves and the succession of the 
 agricultural operations. Occasionally, she sets her own hand 
 to the planting, which is the labour of the women, the men 
 cutting down and burning the bushes, which spring up with 
 such rapidity wherever the African soil is left for a season 
 untouched. 
 
 As 1 intended to spend some months in the Cape Lopez 
 country, I had brought a very inconvenient quantity of 
 luggage, which was to be transported overland to Sanga- 
 tanga from here, Mbata being the head of navigation in this 
 direction — to carry all this required some thirty men. These 
 I asked the queen for next morning, saying that I would 
 give each man five fathoms of cotton cloth, some beads, and 
 tobacco. She made no difficulty, but, of course, several days 
 were required to get everything ready for a start. 
 
 Finally, all was prepared, and we started. Our way led us 
 for ten or twelve miles through a fine prairie, interspersed 
 with occasional hills, and making altogether a beautiful 
 country for agriculture. South of the Gaboon the country 
 changes very much, and is generally less rough and better 
 adapted to the growing of yams and other farm-products 
 
102 EQUATORIAL AFIIICA. Chap. X. 
 
 than any I had seen before. Here, as we travelled along, we 
 came occasionally upon the huts of slaves who lived here, 
 far away from their Mpongvve masters on the coast, and tilled 
 the soil on their own account, sending a tribute of its pro- 
 ducts down to the seaside whenever canoes came up the 
 Mbata for it. They seemed quite happy, as they were cer- 
 tainly independent, for slaves. The old men and women lay 
 lazily in front of their little huts, smoking ; and on every 
 hand were smiling fields of plantains, manioc, pea-nuts, and 
 yams. 
 
 Towards twelve o'clock we approached the sea, and could 
 hear the distant boom of the surf. Presently the sky, before 
 clear, became overcast, and before long we were in the midst of 
 a wild storm — almost a toinado. It thundered and lightened 
 violently, and rained as it rains only in Africa. We rushed 
 for a little hut we saw before us, and were kindly recei\ed by 
 an old negro and his wife, who lived there. In about an hour 
 the storm was over, and the sky was again clear. These 
 storms are frer^uent here in the season, and sometimes do 
 much damage, tearing down trees, and overwhelming the 
 plantations in ruin. 
 
 Half-an-hour's walk brought us to the beach, along which 
 we now had to walk. The soft sand made our journey 
 exhausting ; I was forced to take off my shoes, as I sank 
 down above my ankles at every step. This lasted the whole 
 day, and I was glad when night came and we stopped. On 
 one side was the rolling sea, and on the other the dark green 
 forests, coming down in seemingly impenetrable masses 
 nearly to the shore. Every mile or so a creek cut its way 
 through this mass of green, and wound its devious course 
 into the interior, having a curious appearance — canal-like — 
 from the way in which the vegetation began on the very 
 banks, in the same solid masses which presented their fronts 
 seaward. It was a real solitude, the roar of the sea breaking 
 the grim silence of the forest only to make that more impres- 
 sive. From time to time we recognized the lonesome cry 
 of the chimpanzee, which is the chief inhabitant of these 
 wihls. 
 
 Just at sunset we came upon a beautiful little prairie or 
 
Chap. X. CANOE-BUILDING. 103 
 
 natural clearing, situated quite intlie middle of the woocis, 
 and received an unexpected welcome from the owner of some 
 huts we saw in front of us. He proved to be a Mpongwe, 
 named Mbouma, whom I had known at the Gaboon. He had 
 come hither to spend the dry season in making canoes, the 
 trees surrounding his little cleaiing being of unusual size. He 
 had chosen for the scene of bis labours one of the prettiest 
 spots I have seen. The little prairie was a mile long, by 
 perhaps one-third of a mile wide, perfectly clear, and covered 
 with a luxuriant growth of grass, which, when the sun lay 
 on it next morning, shone with a golden glory. The very 
 beasts of the forest seemed to rejoice in its brightness ; 
 monkeys leaped nimbly along the trees on its skirts, and the 
 song of the birds in the morning gave a charm to the whole 
 scene which few of the African wilds can boast. 
 
 Mbouma had moved hither temporarily, but with his whole 
 family — wives, children, and slaves. They had built shel- 
 ters, rude but sufficient leaf-roofed huts. 
 
 He showed me some immense trees he had cut down, and 
 which were intended for canoes. Several of these vessels 
 were already completed and ready to launch. A Mpongwe 
 canoe is sometimes of very considerable size. MLouma had 
 one finished, which was 60 feet long, 3^ feet wide, and 3 feet 
 deep. The process of canoe-building is very simple. The 
 tree is felled, cut to the requisite length, divested of limbs, if 
 any are in the way, and then fire is ajjplied to burn out the 
 inside. This fire is carefully watched and guided till all the 
 inside is eaten away. Then the mpano, the native adze, is 
 used to trim all off neatly, and to give shape to the outside. 
 They know very well how to do this ; and their larger canoes 
 are very stout and reliable craft, in which considerable coast- 
 ing voyages are sometimes made. Unfoitunately the making 
 of the canoe is mostly the least part of the work. The 
 canoe-tree (for only one kind of tree is used for this purpose) 
 grows almost invariably some miles away from the water, 
 and the unlucky boat-builder's greatest undertaking is the 
 launch. Often, they have to transport a sixty- foot canoe 
 eight or ten miles overland to the nearest creek or river. In 
 this case they cut a path through the woods, and on this lay 
 
104 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. X. 
 
 rollers two feet apart, on wliioli, with miich trouble, the 
 little vessel is pushed along. 
 
 Mbouma was very fortunate in his choice of locality. His 
 farthest canoe was but two miles from the seashore, and he 
 thought his labour easy enough. But he was forced to send 
 all his canoes by sea to the Gaboon. 
 
 Little prairies like this of Mbouma's occurred constantly 
 between this and Sangatanga, the head town of the Oroungous. 
 They were great reliefs to the dreary journey. 
 
 We continued to skirt the seashore, our aim being to gain 
 a Shekiani village, where we purjaosed to stop the night. 
 
 We reached a village where the chief, Ogoula-Limbai by 
 name, turned out to meet us at the head of his whole village, 
 which consisted of thirty men, sixty or seventy women, and a 
 prodigious number of children. I was welcomed and con- 
 ducted to a house — a real house — the most convenient and 
 substantial I had met with among the wild negroes. It was 
 high, had a plank floor, and was really wonderful for a 
 savage chief's abode. It had several rooms partitioned off 
 with planks ; and when I had rested and talked awhile I was 
 asked into another room, where a new surprise awaited me. 
 The walls of this room were covered with wall-paper, and all 
 around were hung little pictures of saints. A table was 
 covered with a real cotton cloth, on which was my dinner, 
 which I was now asked to eat. The piece de resistance was a 
 splendid roast of boar-meat, juicy and fragrant. The wild 
 boar is very plentiful hereabouts, and makes a very fine roast. 
 The animal is black. 
 
 Ogoula has the reputation of being the greatest hunter of 
 elephants in all the country about here. As he could speak 
 Mpongwe, he told me some of his adventures, which proved 
 that he was indeed a daring and export fellow. Going out 
 to the hunt one day, he met two elephants. Being alone he 
 had but one' gun, and would have retreated and watched for 
 a safer chance ; but the great beasts saw him and did not 
 give him any opportunity of escape. He was obliged to 
 make a stand ; and taking good aim he killed one elejihant. 
 Unfortunately it was the female, and the male, seeing its 
 partngy fall, immediately rushed at him. He turned to 
 
Chap. X. TRANSPORT DIFFICULTIES. i05 
 
 retreat, and cauglit his foot in a trailing creeper. The more 
 he struggled the more ho became entangled, and meantime 
 his pursuer was tearing down everything in its way, and 
 was almost on top of him when he got his foot loose, and 
 swung himself into a young sapling which stood at Inind. 
 Scarce had he done this, when the elephant trumpeting with 
 rage, was beneath him. It seized the sapling with its trunk 
 and swayed it violently back and forth, determined to pull it 
 down. But as it swung on one side, Ogoula, nimble through 
 desperation, was able to catch at another which stood near, 
 and when the elephant seized this, he gave himself a great 
 swing and caught the outsi retched branch of a huge full- 
 grown tree, from which he clambered to a safe height where 
 he could afford to laugh at the vain rage of hi^ enemy. 
 
 The negroes are not generally good marksmen, but they 
 have great nimbleness and considerable presence of mind, 
 and often escape in situations where a white man w^ould most 
 likely be killed. 
 
 As my men were very much exhausted with the weight of 
 my baggage, I asked Ogoula to let me have a canoe, which he 
 did. The road to Sangatanga by sea was a little further, but 
 a good deal easier than along the yielding sand of the sea- 
 shore ; BO the luggage was to be put in the canoe, and I and 
 part of the people to go witli it. 
 
 I slept on a sofa-bed — another relic of the Portuguese — 
 with a negro boy to fan me, and a torch by whose smoke it 
 was hoped the musquitoes would he driven off. As the natives 
 here, including Ogoula himself, are great thieves, my things 
 were placed in a room near mine, where my men slept. 
 
 About one o'clock I woke up, roused up the men, and pro- 
 ceeded to the seashore. Here wo found ourselves in a position 
 so common, and so characteristic of the negroes' dealings, 
 that I will describe it. I had bargained for a canoe and paid 
 for it, expecting, of course, to have it in such a condition 
 that we could use it. 
 
 Now we could find no paddles. I went to Ogoula, who 
 said they must have been stolen, but offered a new set for two 
 fathoms of cloth and two bottles of rum. 
 
 I refused, point-blank, to be cheated. 
 
106 EQUATOEIAL AFRICA. Chap. X. 
 
 Ogoula frowned — looked blacker than usual, in fact, and 
 declined to help us. 
 
 There was much " pHlavei," and finally one of my men 
 gave his own cloth and got the paddles. I was very angry, 
 but could do nothing ; and happilj' Ogoula was just in the 
 same state. He thought himself ill-used that I had given 
 hira no rum (which I never carried for the natives), but could 
 do nothing — but cheat. Had I not been escorted by Eompo- 
 chombo's men, no doubt I should have had trouble — probably 
 been robbed. 
 
 We now put our things aboard, got in, and put oif. Tbo 
 surf was high, the boat deep-laden, and, uuluckil3', we got 
 caught in a mountain of a breaker, which turned us over in 
 an instant but a few yards from the shore, and sent us all 
 into the water, which, fortunately for me, was not deep. 
 
 Here was another mess. We got ashore again, kindled an 
 immense fire, and then my men, who were, as all the coast 
 negroes are, good divers, set out, and in an amazingly short 
 time fished up everything we had lost but one or two small 
 packages. I was very glad to find my guns again, for with- 
 out them I should have been in a bad plight. The powder, 
 fortunately, had been so carefully packed that it was not 
 injured ; and, as for the rest, I came off very well. 
 
 Last of all, the paddles were hunted up. They had been 
 washed ashore a long distance off. Then we lay down by 
 the fire till dawn and dried ourselves, and, when day broke, I 
 had all the things again put into the boat, and sent the men 
 off to make their way round, determining myself to walk 
 overland. 
 
 While we lay about the fire, I kept a good look-out for my 
 friend Ogoula, and was rewarded by seeing his rascally face 
 peering at us through the darkness. He came down when 
 he saw himself discovered, and expressed himself very sorry ; 
 but I felt certain that if we had been in confusion I should 
 have been jjlundored. These negroes seem to be unable to 
 keep their hands off property that has been cast ashore by 
 the sea, no matter how slight the accident. 
 
 I set out with a man to carry my gun and show me the 
 way. Towards noon we came to a village, where, fortu- 
 
Chap. X. ABBIVAL AT SANGATANGA. lOT 
 
 nately, we got soniothing to eat, for I was very hungrj'. In 
 the aftei'nooii we came to the Sliarlc Eiver; rightly named, 
 for its mouth was actually alive with huge sharks, which 
 swaiu about our frail canoe as we crossed in such an out- 
 rageously familiar manner that I was rather glad to get 
 safely across. 
 
 The negroes boast that they can swim the river without 
 danger if only they have nothing red about them ; and, 
 in fact, all my men swam across without accident, first care- 
 fully concealing those parts of their scanty dress which 
 might have the obnoxious colour. They also offered to take 
 me over on their backs ; but this I refused, from a fear that 
 the sharks might make an exception in my case to their 
 general rule. These fish are here held sacred — which may 
 have something to do with their harmlessness. The natives 
 believe that if they were to kill one there would be no safety 
 from their attacks thereafter. It is certainly very singular 
 that they should not attack men in the water, for on any 
 other of the numerous points on the coast where they 
 abound a man would be instantly killed did he venture 
 among them. 
 
 I'he prairies grow larger and more important as the 
 traveller approaches Sangatanga, and in the interior they 
 form a still larger portion of the country. The change is 
 very curious and very decided, as north of the Gaboon such 
 a thing as a clear patch is almost unknown ; all being vast, 
 dense, hardly penetrable forest. All the interior, from 
 (.'aboon to Sangatanga and Nazareth Eiver, is hilly, rolling 
 land, and contains large prairie traotg, where the bufialo has 
 his home and pasture. Each clearing is lined with dense, 
 evergreen forests, where the bufl'alo spends his days, grazing 
 only by night ; and these forests shelter the elephant, leopard, 
 and all the varied fauna of these woods, which abound much 
 more in game than the country north of the Gaboon. 
 
 I did not reach Sangatanga till a little before dark, having 
 travelled sixteen hours, counting an hour's rest on the way. 
 
108 EQUATORIAL AFEICA. Chap. XI. 
 
 CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 Sangatnnga — The royal rcsidenoc — Tlio Oi'ouiigou people — Visit to King 
 Bango — The Mafouga — The king's crevvn — A ball given in my honcwi 
 — Songs — Rum in plenty — Five reputed idols. 
 
 The hills above Sangatanga assume very fantastic shapes, 
 and are many of them quite steep. Along their sides, where 
 they are bare, they are covered with thousands of the curious 
 hills of the white ants which abound hereabouts. 
 
 Sangatanga is set upon a tolerably high hill fronting the 
 sea-shore, between which and the town, a distance of about 
 two miles, stretches a lovely prairie, about which are scat- 
 tered numerous little villages. The view is charming, for, 
 turning the eye upwards from the landscape which lies at 
 one's feet, the beholder sees before him the boundless stretch 
 of the ocean, whose billows seem pouring in to overwhelm 
 the shore. I never tired of this fine landscape, which was 
 doubly refreshing after my long and tedious journeys in the 
 unpicturesque regions north of the Gaboon, where the coast- 
 lino almost everywhere is a deadly_,swampi, and the interior 
 an interminable forest. 
 
 At the top of the hill was the royal residence, where dwelt 
 the king of the Oroungou tribe. He is a powerful chief, and 
 his tribe — over whom he rules almost as a despot by his per- 
 sonal influence — are a thriving and influential people. 
 
 Cape Lopez proper is in lat. 0° 36' 10" S., and long. 8" 40' E. 
 from Greenwich. It takes its name from the Portuguese, who 
 formerly called it Cape Lopez Gonsalvez. It is chiefly a long 
 sandy point projecting into the sea, on which it gains some- 
 what every year. This point protects the bay, which is 
 quite large and full of shallows and banks, so that vessels 
 are obliged to anchor far from the shore. The cape looks 
 from the sea something like overflowed land. The point 
 is so low that the bushes and trees growing on it seem from 
 a distance seaward to be set in the water. 
 
 The indent of the bay is about fourteen miles, and several 
 small rivers empty their waters into it near its base. The 
 Nazareth, a more considerable stream, also has its mouths 
 
Chap. XI. KING BANGO. 109 
 
 here, as well as tlie Fetich Eiver, one of its branches. The 
 bay has frequent banks and shalluws, but the water is very 
 deep' near the cape itself, and vessels of large size may sail 
 in, almost or quite touching the land without danger. 
 
 The inner shores of the bay are swampy and overgrown 
 with mangroves, which come quite down to the water's edge, 
 in their usual gloomy and impenetrable masses. The water 
 here is brackish, from the large quantity of fresh water 
 brought down by the Nazareth and other streams. This part 
 of the coast has a gloomy, dirtj', sickly appearance — the black 
 waters lushing into the sea, the long mangrove-flats sending 
 up noisome exhalations, and filling the air with a pungent 
 and disagreeable odour of decaying vegetation. The bay 
 abounds with all sorts of delicious fish, and the cape itself is 
 a famous place for turtle. 
 
 King Bango, if he were not a drunken vagabond, might 
 be a prosperous king. Back from the seashore the land 
 becomes higher and hilly, the mangroves give place to forests 
 of jDalm and more useful woods, and fine prairies dot the 
 country quite thickly. The whole of this district was then 
 given to the slave-trade. 
 
 In the morning after my arrival the king sent his mafouga 
 (his intendant, major-domo, herald, and secretary of state) 
 to the village where I had stopped, to ascertain who was the 
 white man who had come, and what was his business. 
 
 The Oroungo language being almost identical with the 
 Mpongwe, I was able to converse with the mafouga, and in- 
 formed him that I was too tired to speak to or see anyone, 
 but that next day I would see the king. 
 
 At eight o'clock the following morning I accordingly 
 prepiared for my visit to King Bango, or Pass-all — the last 
 being the name given him by the tradeis. The royal palace 
 is surrounded by a little village of huts, in which reside the 
 royal v/ives, of whom there are really a vast number (over 
 300), as the king takes pride in keeping up the largest harem 
 to be found on this part of the toast. 
 
 As I entered the village the mafouga met me, with the 
 king's cane borne aloft, and inquired, in an official voice, my 
 business, and if I desired to see the king. 
 
no EQUATOEIAL AFSICA. Chap. XI 
 
 I answered, Yes — somewliat disgusted at so much ceremony, 
 tliough the crowd of loyal subjects who had followed me up 
 were hugely pleased. 
 
 I was asked to wait awhile, and presently (the royal wives 
 having put the finishing touches to their toilets, perhaps) I 
 was admitted to the palace. 
 
 It was an ugly hole of a house, set on pillars, and of two 
 stories. The lower story consisted of a dark hall, flanked on 
 each side by rows of small dark rooms, looking uncommonly 
 like cells. At the end of the hall was a staircase, steep and 
 dirty, up which the mafouga piloted me. When I had 
 ascended, I found myself in a large room, at one end of which 
 was seated King Bango, surrounded by about a hundred of 
 his wives, and with his interpreter sgid some of his principal 
 men standing near him. 
 
 The king — a middle-sized, not over-clean, dissipated-look- 
 ing negro, dressed very lightly in a shirt and a dilapidated 
 pair of pantaloons — wore on his head a crown which had 
 been presented to him by some of his friends the Portuguese 
 slavers, and over his shoulders a flaming yellow coat with 
 gilt embroidery all over it — apparently the cast-off coat of 
 some rich man's lackey in Portugal or Brazil. The crown 
 was shaped like those commonly worn by actors on the stage, 
 and was probably worth when new about two pounds. But 
 his majesty had put around it a new band or circlet of pure 
 gold, which must have been worth at least forty pounds. 
 He was very proud of this crown. He sat on a sofa, and 
 held in his hand a cane, which officiated as sceptre. 
 
 Most of his wives present wore silks. I was presented to 
 the queen or head wife, an old woman, and by no means 
 pretty. 
 
 The king remarked that the slave-trade no longer prospered. 
 He complained of the English, who were the cause of this 
 stagnation, and feared much that in a few j'ears more he 
 would be left without customers. 
 
 He next addressed me in French, and told me he had been 
 to Brazil and- also to Portugal, having lived two years in 
 Lisbon, and knew how to read Portuguese — a bit of know- 
 ledge which must have been, handy in his business affairs. 
 
Chap. XI. ROYAL CEREMONIES. Ill 
 
 It was easy to see that his foreign travel had done him little 
 good. 
 
 He told me that the entire village on the hill was occupied 
 by his family and slaves, and that about two hundred of his 
 men were now in the country on his plantation. To my 
 question of how many children he had, he replied that lie 
 did not know the exact number, but at least six hundred, 
 which, from after observation, I consider a fair estimate. 
 
 The next morning that absurd personage, the mafouga, 
 who was evidently the result of his royal master's visit to 
 Lisbon, came down to my house to announce that the king 
 would return my visit in the afternoon. Accordingly, at 
 two o'clock I arranged mj^ little hut, and jJi'esently a great 
 beating of drums announced that King Eango was under 
 way. Soon a great procession of people appeared, at the 
 head of whom the king was borne in a hammock. I wept 
 out to meet him, and found, to my surprise, that he could 
 not move. I thought, at first, that he was dead-drunk, but 
 was presently informed that his left arm and leg w^ere 
 paralyzed. His people lifted him out of his hammock and 
 seated him on a seat which I had prepared, and here six of 
 his wives surrounded him with fans. The rest of his family 
 who were present also crowded around, and I soon perceived 
 that all the women were drunk. His majesty had called at 
 one of the slave-factories on his way to my house, and there 
 rum had been served out to the whole cortege. Evidently 
 the royal ladies had managed to get more than their share. 
 
 Bango was dressed as yesterday, except that he had on a 
 new crown, which I asked to see. He took it off. I found 
 that it was also a tawdry concern, but enriched with gold to 
 the value of at least a thousand dollars. It contained some 
 poor imitations of precious stones, and was evidently thought 
 an object of great value and beauty by its possessor. After 
 praising its beauty, I returned it ; whereupon his majesty 
 tried to pick a quarrel, saying that neither Portuguese, 
 English, French, Spaniards, or Americans had ever before 
 asked him to take off his crown, and that he thought I 
 intended to insult him. Of course I said I had a great desire 
 to behold, near to, such a beautiful object, which seemed to 
 
112 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XI. 
 
 pacify him. He informed me that this crown ha 1 been given 
 him by a celebrated slave-trader on the coast, well known 
 under the name of Don Jose, and that it was sent as a special 
 gift from one of the richest firms of Eio Janeiro, who had 
 dealt largely with him. 
 
 While we were talking, one of the women was slyly kick- 
 ing me on the shins and winking at me, which I sincerely 
 hoped the king, her husband, would not see, as I had no 
 desire to arouse his jealousy. When we ceased, all the 
 women began to ask for rum, which I refused, but gave them 
 instead several heads of tobacco, and then formally presented 
 the king with two large pieces of cloth. This put him in 
 good humour, and, after some refreshments, he set out for 
 home. 
 
 The next night a ball was given by the king in my honour. 
 The room where I had been first received was the ball-room. 
 When I arrived, shortly after dark, I found about one hundred 
 and fifty of the king's wives assembled, many of whom were 
 accounted the best dancers in the country. Shortly after- 
 wards singing began, and then a barrel of rum was rolled in 
 and tapped. A good glassful was given to each of the women, 
 and then the singing recommenced. In this the women only 
 took part, and the airs were doleful and discordant. The 
 words I could not always catch ; but here is a specimen : — 
 
 "When we are alive and well. 
 Let us be merry, sing, dance, and laugh; 
 For after life comes death ; 
 Tiien the body rots, the worms eat it. 
 And all is done for ever." 
 
 When everybody was greatly excited with these songs, the 
 king, who sat in a corner on a sofa with some of his favourite 
 wives next him, gave the signal for the dance to begin. 
 Immediately all rose up and beat a kind of tune or refrain 
 to accompany the noise of the tam-tams or drums. Then six 
 women stepped out and began to dance in the middle of the 
 floor. The dance is not to be described. Any one who has 
 seen a Spanish fandango, and can imagine its lascivious 
 movements tenfold exaggerated, will have some faint con- 
 ception of the postures of these black women. To attain 
 
Chai-. XI. IDOL-HOUSES. 113 
 
 the greatest possible indecency of attitude seemed to be the 
 ambition of all six. These were relieved by another set of 
 six in course of time, and so the ball went on for about two 
 hours, when, what with occasional potations of rum and the 
 excitement of the dance and noise, the whole assemblage got 
 BO uproarious that I had thoughts of retreating ; but the king 
 would not suffer it. He and all the people seemed to enjoy 
 it all exceedingly. 
 
 Next women came out, one at a time, and danced their 
 best (or worst) before a closely-critical audience, who, watch- 
 ing every motion with jealous eyes, were sure to applaud by 
 audible murmurs of pleasure at every more than usually 
 lewd pas. At last this ceased, and two really pretty young 
 girls came out hand in hand and danced before me. I was 
 told that they were daughters of the king, and he desired 
 that I should take them for my wives. 
 
 Finally the room began to smell too high for me, and, as 
 the revelries were getting madder all the time, I slipped out 
 and betook myself to my hut to sleep. 
 
 Near the king's house I passed three little houses, in which 
 I was then told were deposited five idols, which, I knew, 
 were considered the most powerful on all the coast from 
 Banoko to Mayombai. They are thought to be the great pro- 
 tectors of all the Oroungou tribes, and are themselves placed 
 near the king's house, who delights to do them honour, and 
 whom they protect from all evil. 
 
 The five idols are deposited in three houses. Pangeo, a 
 male idol, is married to Aleka, and the two stand together in 
 one house. Pangeo is the special protector of the king and 
 his people, and watches over them by night, keeping off 
 ever}' evil. 
 
 Makambi, a second male idol, is married to Abiala, and 
 they have a second house to themselves. Poor Makambi is a 
 powerless god, his wife having usurped the power. She 
 holds a pistol in her hand, with which it is'supposed she can 
 kill any one she pleases : for which reason the natives fear 
 her greatly. She protects them from various evils : and 
 when they are sick they implore her to make them well, and 
 bring her presents of food to propitiate her. 
 
114 EQUATOItlAL AFIIICA. Chap. XI. 
 
 Last, comes a bachelor- god, Numba, wLo is the Oroimgou 
 Neptune and Mercury in one, keeping off the evils which 
 are likely to come from beyond sea and ruling the waves. 
 He has the third house all to himself. 
 
 These idols are all large, and very rudely carved and orna- 
 mented. The people seem to place great value upon them. 
 I offered 20 dollars for one, but was told I could not buy it 
 for 100 slaves even, which is as much as to say that it was 
 not to be bought. 
 
 The next day I wandered about the town watching the 
 lazy negroes, and did not return to my house till after dark. 
 I struck a match and set fire to a torch to go to bed by ; and 
 casting my eyes about to see if anything had been disturbed, 
 noticed something glittering and shining under my alcoko or 
 low bamboo bedstead. I did not pay much attention to the 
 oliject, which did not seem important by the dim light of the 
 torch, till, just as I ajjproached the bed to arrange it, I saw 
 that the glitter was proiluced by the shining scales of an 
 enormous serpent which lay quietly coiled up there within 
 two feet of me. My first motion was to retreat behind the 
 dour; then I bethought me how to kill it. But unfortunately 
 my two guns were set against the wall behind the bed, and 
 the snake was between me and them. As I stood watching 
 and thinking what to do, keeping the doorway fairly in my 
 rear for a speedy retreat, I noticed that my visitor did not 
 move, and finally I mustered up) courage to creep along the 
 floor to the bedside and quickly grasp one gun. Happily 
 it was loaded very heavily with large shot. I placed the 
 muzzle fairly against one of the coils of the serpent, and 
 fired, and then ran out. 
 
 At the report there was an instant rush of negroes from 
 all sides, eager to know what was the matter. They thought 
 some one had shot a man, and then run into my house for 
 concealment. Of course they all rushed in after, helter- 
 skelter; and as quickly rushed out again, on finding a grciit 
 snake writhing about the floor. Then I went in cautiously 
 to reconnoitre ; happily my torch had kept alight, and I saw 
 the snake on the floor. My shot had been so closely fired 
 that it had cut the body fairly in two, and both ends were 
 
Chap. XII. PREl'AUATIONS FOB A START. 115 
 
 now flopping about the floor. I gave the head some blows 
 with a heavy stick, and thus killed the animal ; and then, to 
 my surprise, it disgorged a duck, which it had probably 
 swallowed that afternoon, and then sought shelter in my hut 
 to digest it quietly. This pretty sleeping companion measured 
 eighteen feet in length. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Journey inland from Sangatanga — Preparations for bunting — Tlie king 
 gives me three great liunters — Beautiful appearance of the country 
 — Buffaloes and elephants — Cool nights — Hippopotami — An ap- 
 proaching caravan— Mistrust — The village of Ngola — King Njambai 
 — Sliinshooko's house — Torturing a woman— Rescue — Appearance of 
 the Shekianis — Their methods of warfare — My guns and watches are 
 objects of wonder — Customs of the Shekianis — Our camp — Shooting 
 two leopards — Superstitions in regard to leopard's tail and liver — 
 Aboko kills an elephant — Buffaloes — Keturn to Sangatanga — The 
 Oroungou burial-ground. 
 
 I ASKED the king for permission to go into the interior on 
 a hunting expedition ; he immediately gave me twenty-five 
 men to carry my luggage and help me in my undertaking. 
 Of these, three were his majesty's own slaves, and i-eputed 
 the greatest hunters in the country. They were the providers 
 of the royal table, and passed their lives in the hunt and in 
 the bush. They killed elephants on his account, bringing 
 him home the ivory. 
 
 I desired to penetrate into the hitherto unexplored interior 
 of this latitude till we should meet the Nazareth River, which 
 I was told we should do at the distance of about one hundred 
 miles to the east. For their services I agreed to give the 
 men twenty fathoms of cotton cloth each, if they behaved 
 themselves faithfully towards me. 
 
 As we were to meet elephants, leopards, buffaloes, and the 
 gorilla, I provided myself with a good supply of bullets. 1 
 was told that game was very plentiful in all the region I 
 was now to visit, people being scarce, and the country more 
 favourable than in those regions north of the Gaboon. 
 
 At half-past five we were already on the march, myself 
 
116 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XII. 
 
 ahead, with Aboko, my head-man, and Niamkala, the next 
 best, at my side, and four other hunters, and twenty-three 
 young men, as bearers and assistants, following us. 
 
 The way led through some beautiful prairies, each sur- 
 rounded by dark forests, and seeming like natural gardens 
 planted in the wilderness. It does not need much time to 
 get into the " backwoods " here. By three o'clock Aboko 
 announced to me that we were now where any moment we 
 might come upon elephant or buffalo ; and in a short time, 
 sure enough, we saw a bull standing deer-like upon the edge 
 of the wood, watching us. He stood for some minutes, safe 
 out of range, and then turned into the wood, evidently not 
 liking our appearance. We ran round to intercept his tract, 
 and I waited at one pass in the wood for Aboko and two 
 others to get clear round and drive the bull towards me. 
 Suddenly I saw something approaching me out of the deep 
 gloom of the forest, but, not looking closely, took it to be one 
 of my men. It came towards me, and I walked unsuspiciously 
 forward to a clear space. Here the thing caught sight of 
 me, and, with a shrill scream, ran back into the woods. 
 Then first I knew that in the dark (for in these forests day- 
 light is almost shut out) I had mistaken a chimpanzee for a 
 man. I was vexed ; for the beast was but about thirty yards 
 off when it ran, and I could have shot it easily. Presently 
 my men returned, and had a hearty laugh at me for my 
 mistake. 
 
 At six we camped in the midst of a prairie, my men col- 
 lecting from the nearest forest an immense quantity of fire- 
 wood, and building fires which must have been visible at a 
 great distance. Our supper was of roast venison and plantains 
 — good enough for such hungry fellows as we ; and shortly 
 after seven, we stretched ourselves with our feet to the fires, 
 and wrapped up, I in my blankets, and the men in whatever 
 they could get together of leaves and grass. No wonder the 
 poor fellows love a fire. They are very lightly dressed, and 
 the winds here, near the equator as it is, in the dry season 
 are very cold when the sun is' not up to warm them. I 
 could not rest well for cold, though I had a thick blanket 
 about me. 
 
Chap. XII AN APPROACHING CAIUVAN. 117 
 
 The night was clear and very chilly for Africa, and I 
 could not sleep, though I had placed my boxes to windward 
 for shelter. So about two o'clock I roused everybody up to 
 move on, thinking it easier to keep warm in motion than 
 while lying still. The men were very glad. Poor fellows ! 
 they had suffered more than I. Fortunately it was bright 
 moonlight, and we could see our -way clearly across the 
 prairie. A couple of hours' sharp walking brought us to a 
 thick wood so situated as to shelter us from the wind. Here 
 we quickly built a tremendous fire, and again stretched out 
 for a short nap, which lasted till sis, or sunrise, when the 
 cry of the gray partridge (Francolinus squamatus) aroused us. 
 
 Sunrise found us under way again ; and before us a fine 
 stretch of prairie, on whose farther borders were quietly 
 grazing several herds of buffaloes, which quickly ran into the 
 woods. While they remained they gave the wild country 
 a singularly civilized appearance. It looked like a great 
 grazing farm in June, with cattle, and hay almost ready for 
 harvest; a fine, quiet, old-oountry picture here in the wilds 
 of Africa. 
 
 Towards nine o'clock we came to a large pool or lakelet, 
 and here I saw for the first time a hippopotamus. A dozen 
 of these vast unwieldy creatures were sporting and snorting 
 in the water, now popping their huge unshapely heads out, 
 and then diving to the bottom. Aboko persuaded me not to 
 kill any of them, as he justly remarked we could not have 
 got them out of the water ; and the proper way is to take 
 them when they come on shore at night to feed. 
 
 Shortly after we came to an open space, and saw in the 
 distance what I took at first to be a herd of buffalo, but 
 which proved to be a caravan approaching us. When they 
 saw us they prepared for trouble — for here there is no law, 
 and every man's hand is against his brother. The greater 
 number hid in the grass ; and, after some reconnoitring, four 
 fellows, well armed, came towards us to ask if it was peace 
 or war. When they saw me, thej' were at once filled with 
 surprise, and, losing their fears in their amazement at seeing 
 a white man in the interior, began to shout out to their 
 company to come and see the Otangani. 
 
118 EQUATOItlAL AFRICA. Chap. XII. 
 
 They were bound soutli and west with tobacco, salt, and 
 goods, and intended to bring back slaves and ivory. They 
 were Shekianis, who are the prevailing people in the interior 
 hereabouts. We reached about the middle of the afternoon 
 the village of Ngola, the residence of a Shekiani chief named 
 Njambai, a vassal of King Bango, who had sent word by 
 Abuko that I was to be entertained as long as I liked to stay 
 and hunt. It contained about fifty neat houses, running 
 in a double row along a long street, in the African fashion. 
 But the whole place had a pleasing look of neatness which 
 was not peculiarly African. It lies sixty miles due east 
 from Sangatanga. 
 
 As we approached, the women caught sight of me and ran 
 screaming into the houses. It is curious that nothing excites 
 so much terror in an interior African village as the appear- 
 ance of a white man. The women and children run for 
 their lives, and seem to be afraid that the mere sight of a 
 white will kill them. Here, however, the men did not seem 
 to be afraid, as my cannibal friends were; and, though 
 Njambai had never before seen a white man, he received me 
 very courteously. Aboko delivered King Bango's message, 
 to which Njambai replied to me that he owned all the country 
 hereabouts, and I should have as many men to help me hunt 
 it as I wished. All which being satisfactorily arranged, I 
 was escorted to the house of the king's brother, which, being 
 the most commodious in the town, was set apart for my use. 
 
 I did not go out the next day, and counted myself lucky 
 that I did not, for I was able to save the life of a poor woman 
 who was being killed with the most horrible tortures. After 
 dinner, as I was reading, I heard a woman crying out as if 
 in great pain. On my asking what was the matter, a man 
 told me the king was punishing one of his wives; and some 
 others hinted that I had better go and try to save her life. 
 I huiried over to the king's house, and there, in front of the 
 veranda, a spectacle met my eyes which froze my blood with 
 horror. A woman, naked, was tied by the middle to a stout 
 .stake driven into the ground. Her legs were stretched out 
 and fastened to other smaller stakes, and stout cords were 
 bound round her neck, waist, ankles, and wrists. These cords 
 
Chap. XII. RESCUE OF A VICTIM. 119 
 
 were being twistt-d with sticks, and when I arrived the sltin 
 •was already bursting from the terrible compression. A great 
 crowd of spectators was standing around, not miioli excited. 
 I suppose they were used to such scenes. 
 
 I walked up, and, taking the king by the arm, asked him 
 to release the poor wretch for my sake, and not to kill her. 
 When I spoke, the twisting ceased. The executioners seemed 
 willing enough to suspend operations. The king hesitated, 
 and was not willing to be balked of his revenge. He walked 
 into his house. I followed him, and threatened to leave his . 
 town immediately if he did not release her. Finally he 
 gave in, and said, " Let her loose yourself. I give her to 
 you." 
 
 I rushed immediately, and, being unable to untie the 
 savage cords, cut them with my knife. The poor creature 
 \\ as covered with blood. Some of the ropes had penetrated 
 so deeply that the flesh had burst open, and she bled freely. 
 But she was not seriously hurt. I went immediately in to 
 the king and made him promise me that he would not punish 
 her again. Then I asked what she had done to deserve such 
 punishment. He said she had stolen the bead belt which 
 he usually wore around his waist and given it to her lover — 
 a heinous offence truly. 
 
 Then, to change the current of his ebony majesty's thoughts, 
 I pointed out to him a small bird sitting upon the top of a 
 high tree near his house, and said I could kill that bird. 
 He said it was impossible, as I knew he would. I sent for 
 my gun, took aim, and brought down the bird, amid the loud 
 .shouts of his majesty and the populace. They examined mj^ 
 gun, which had a cap-lock, and was a great wonder to tbem, 
 as, of course, they use only flint-looks. Then they said I had 
 a greegree or fetich to help me shoot. No one who had not 
 a powerful charm could do such things, they thought. 
 
 Then, to clinch their good-hiunour, I brought out my 
 match-box and struck a liglit. This has never failed to get 
 me a great reputation among the interior negroes. It is a 
 trick which seems to them the most marvellous of all, and 
 these Shekianis wore never tired of seeing me " make fire." 
 The Shekiani tribe, and those people who are closely allied 
 
120 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. XII. 
 
 to tliem and sjoeak various dialects of their language, occupy 
 a portion of the sea-shore and interior as far as 80 miles from 
 the sea — from the banks of the Muni and Moondah down as 
 far south as the banks of the Ogobay. Through this great 
 extent of country they are scattered in villages, having no- 
 where any central point of union. Still they manage to keep 
 up their nationality. In some parts they are most numerous 
 near the coast ; in others they range as the second, third, and 
 even fourth tribe inland. Thus they are settled near the 
 mouth of the Muni and Moondah, and inhabit the sea-shore 
 between the latter river and the Gaboon ; while south of the 
 Gaboon they have given way to the Mpongwe, and have 
 their villages in the interior. 
 
 SHEKIANI SP00N3. 
 
 In person they are of ordinary size, generally light- 
 coloured for negroes. They are warlike, treacherous, much 
 given to trading, and are real cheats. They are ardent 
 hunters, and have sufficient courage and great skill in wood- 
 craft, being very lithe and active, light of foot, and cunning 
 in their manoeuvres to approach their prey. They are 
 quarrelsome, and have constant " palavers," either with their 
 own villages or those of other tribes. They have but little 
 clan feeling, and the intercourse between neighbouring 
 villages of Shekiani is not always friendly, and scarcely ever 
 intimate. The men, in common with all other African men 
 I have met, have little or no taste for agriculture ; they leave 
 the culture of the ground to their women and slaves. 
 
 In their warfare cunning plays a most important part. 
 
Chap. XII. P0LYGA3IY. 121 
 
 They laugh at the courage of the white man who faces his 
 enemy, and delight most in ambushes and sudden surprises. 
 If one man has a quarrel with another, he lies in wait for 
 him, shoots him as he is passing bj' the way, and imme- 
 diately retreats. Then, of course, the dead man's friends 
 take up his quarrel ; then ensue other ambushes and murders ; 
 frequently a dozen villages are involved in the palaver, and 
 the killing and robbing goes on for months and even years, 
 each party acting as occasion offers. This breeds a feeling 
 of insecurity which is destructive to all settled habits. 
 Often, to escape assassination, a whole village moves away 
 and builds anew at some distance ; and perhaps then the 
 enemy reaches them, or new complications arise, giving cause 
 for new murders. 
 
 Withal, they are not bloodthirsty, but simply careless of 
 human life, passionate, and revengeful. 
 
 Polygamy, of course, prevails among them, and takes rank 
 as a political institution. 
 
 Though chastity is not valued for itself, adultery is a 
 serious offence among townsmen. It is punished by fines, 
 graduated according to the means of the offender ; and many 
 men are sold annually into slavery where the fine cannot be 
 levied in any other way. Sometimes the guilty man compro- 
 mises by working for a certain time for the injured husband, 
 and sometimes blood alone heals the difficulty. 
 
 Each man has generally a head or chief wife — mostly the 
 woman he married first ; and for anyone to have criminal 
 intercourse with this woman ranks as a most heinous crime, 
 for which the offender is at least sold into slavery. When 
 the husband forms new marriage connexions, and, as often 
 happens, his new bride is but a child, she is then put under 
 the care and guardianship of the head wife, who brings her 
 up to the proper age. They marry also with their slave- 
 women ; but the children of these women, though fr«e, have 
 less influence and position among the people than the children 
 of free women. Trequently the women desert their husbands 
 for abuse or other causes, and run off to other villages ; and, 
 as it is a point of honour to return no fugitives of this kind, 
 here is another fertile source of palaver and war. 
 
122 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XII. 
 
 The women are treated very harshly. The men take care 
 to put all the hardest work on their wives, who raise the 
 crops, gather lire wood, bear all kinds of burdens ; and, where 
 the bar-wood trade is carried on, as it is now by many 
 Shekiani villages, the men only cut down the trees and split 
 them into billets, which the women are then forced to bear 
 on their backs through the forests and jungle down to the 
 river-banks, as they have but rude paths, and beasts of 
 burden are unknown in all this part of Africa. This is the 
 most severe toil imaginable, as the loads have to be carried 
 often six or seven miles or more. 
 
 The Shekiani tribe, like all other African tribes, is divided 
 into clans, and, though these clans grow very large sometimes, 
 marriage between members of the same clan is prohibited. 
 Children add much to a man's consequence, especially boys ; 
 and a fruitful woman enjoys, for this reason, great favour. 
 In cases where, as frequently happens, the head of the 
 
 WAMBEE : THE SHEKIANI BANJO. 
 
 family is old and decrepit, the mother of many children has 
 no questions asked her. They know nothing scarcely of the 
 care of children, and lose a great proportion through mistaken 
 treatment in infancy. 
 
 Though they have villages, they may almost be called a 
 nomadic people. They are continually moving about the 
 country, shifting their quarters for such causes as a palaver 
 with a neighbouring town, the death of the chief, or a belief 
 that their village is bewitched. Then they gather up all 
 their household goods, and, collecting what provisions they 
 can, move off in a body, sometimes many weary miles away. 
 
 Their superstitions, similar to many of other tribes, are of 
 the most degrading and barbarous character. I shall men- 
 tion here only that the belief in witchcraft is general, and 
 
Chap. Xll. SBEKIANI CUSTOMS. 123 
 
 causes much misery ; wliilo of idols, evil and good spirits, 
 greegrees, fetiches and charms, there seems no end. 
 
 In different localities the Shekiauis are known by sub- 
 names, and the chief of these are the Mbondemo or Ndemo, 
 the Mbicho, the Ntaimou, and the Acoa — tlio hist inhabiting 
 the interior between the Gaboon and Cape Lopez — the Mbiki, 
 the Mbousha, and the Iliouay. All these speak dialects of 
 the Shekiani, but hold themselves fo be separate tribes. 
 
 We were now about fifteen miles from Njambai's village ; 
 I concluded to make my permanent camp in a jiretty prairie, 
 where we were near water, and had a wide stretch of forest 
 on one side of us for our hunts. The men thought it a good 
 place, one likely to afford us good sport, especially as the 
 lake was likely to draw beasts to its banks to drink. 
 Accordingly, we spent a whole day in arranging our 
 encampment in such a way as to make everything coni- 
 foi table and secure. Fortunately it is now the dry season, 
 and we have no rain, but only the cold night- winds to fear. 
 With branches of trees we built ourselves shelters which 
 should protect us from the wind. I had my boxes piled in a 
 solid mass to windward of my own bed; and, having locked 
 everything up, threatened to shoot the first man who stole 
 anything from me. Then we built light roofs of leafy 
 branches over our sleeping-places, arranged the fires, and 
 behold ! a village. In the midst of our work came ten 
 slaves of Njambai laden with plantains, which the good 
 fellow had sent after me — a most welcome supply. 
 
 When all was done, and we were ready for supper, I again 
 warned my men to be honest and keep their fingers at home. 
 They are good fellows ; but I have found that, while all 
 savages steal, in this part of the country — where the slave- 
 trade prevails, and where the negroes have come in contact 
 with the lowest class of whites — they are much greater thieves 
 than is even usual wifli them. So I threatened to kill the 
 first man I caught troubling my property — to shoot without 
 mercy ; " and then," said I, with great sternness, " when I 
 have blown your brains out, I will settle the matter with 
 your king." 
 
 To which Aboko coolly replied that this arrangement was 
 
Chap. XII A LEOVARD. ' 125 
 
 not likely to do them an}' particular good — another little 
 specimen of African humour. 
 
 Of course, they all protested loudly that they were honest; 
 but I knew their temptations, poor fellows ! and had more 
 confidence in their faith that I would certainly kill the thief 
 than in their good resolutions. 
 
 When this little matter was settled, we drew around the 
 fire. The sun was just setting. In a huge kettle suspended 
 over the fire was boiling a quantity of the juicy buffalo- 
 meat ; before us was a great pile of roasted plantains ; and 
 so, seating ourselves about the immense fire, for the evening 
 was growing chilly, we took a hearty supper together. 
 
 After dinner they drank a jug of palm-wine, which had 
 been brought from Ngola ; and then, to crown their feast 
 with the greatest delight of all, I went to my box, and lifting 
 the lid, while the shining black faces peered at me with 
 saucer-eyes of expectation, took out a huge head of Kentucky 
 tobacco. This " brought down the house," so to speak ; there 
 was a wild hurrah of joy as I distributed a good portion to 
 each, and in a few minutes all were lying about the fire 
 smoking, with that peculiar air of utter content into which 
 the African falls so readily at the slightest opportunity of 
 fire and tobacco-smoke. Then ensued wild stories of hunting- 
 adventures, of witchcraft, and evil spirits, well fitting the 
 rude picturesque surroundings ; and they lay there talking 
 and talking till at last I was obliged to remind them that it 
 was late, and time to feel sleepy. 
 
 The next morning (June 1st) Aboko and I went out in 
 search of elephants, while Niamkala went with some other 
 men to hunt for wild boar, and, if he could find them, gorilla 
 and chimpanzee. I had poor luck, killing only a few small 
 monkeys and birds, of no value ; but as we were returning to 
 the camp I had quite unexpectedly, as such good luck 
 generally comes, the great shot of the day. As Aboko and 
 I were walking carelessly along, I heard the cry of a gray 
 partridge near by, and turned back to get a shot if possible, 
 as they are fine eating. As I pushed into the grass— we 
 were just on the edge of the firest — I saw suddenly several 
 buffalo, one of which I made sure of, as he stood a little in 
 10 
 
126 EQUATORIAL AFllIG A. Chap. XII. 
 
 advance of the rest, and the grass was high enough for a 
 stealthy approach. Aboko and I advanced slowly towards 
 the unconscious bull, who stood a fair mark ; and I was about 
 to raise my gun when Aboko made a quick sign to hold still 
 and listen. As we stood perfectly motionless I heard, at 
 apparently a little distance before us, a low purring sound, 
 which might have been taken by a careless ear for the sound 
 of the wind passing through the grass. But to Aboko's 
 quick ear it betokened something else. His face grew veiy 
 earnest, and he whispered to me " Njego," which is Shekiar)i 
 for leopard. 
 
 The noise continued, and we moved slowly and very 
 cautiously a few steps ahead to get a position where we could 
 see over the grass. The position was not a pleasant one. 
 The leopard comes out generally by night only, and nothing 
 but extreme hunger will bring him out of his lair in open 
 day. Now, when he is hungry, he is also unusually savage 
 and quick in his motions. We knew the animal was near, 
 but conld not by any means get a sight of him. As the 
 wind blew from it towards us, I perceived plainly a strong 
 and peculiar odour which this animal gives out, and this 
 proved moie decidedly that it could not be far off. The 
 thought passed through my mind — was it watching us ? Did 
 its eyes penetrate the grass which we could not see through ? 
 If so, was it perhaps getting ready to spring ? 
 
 Meanwhile our buffalo-bull stood stupidly before his herd 
 not twenty yards from us, utterly innocent of the presence 
 of so many of his formidable enemies, and little suspecting 
 the curious circumstances to which he was about to owe 
 his life. 
 
 Just then we moved a little to one side, and, peering 
 through an opening in the grass, I beheld an immense 
 leopard, a female, with a tiny little leopardling near her 
 side. The beast saw us at the same moment, turning her 
 head quickly at some slight noise we made. She had been 
 watching the buifalo so intently as not to notice our 
 approach. As I watched her, it seemed to me as though 
 a curious look of indecision passed over her face. She, too, 
 had more game than she had looked for, and was puzzled 
 
Chap. XII. LEOPARDS. 127 
 
 which to attack first. Hor long tail waved from side to 
 side, and her eyes glared as she sought for a moment for 
 a decision. But I saved her the trouhle ; for in less time 
 than it takes to write it down I had put a hall into her 
 head, which, luckily for us, relieved her of further care for 
 prey. At the same time Ahoko fired into the little leopard 
 and killed it. 
 
 I thought the men would have lost their senses for joy 
 when we called them to get our prizes. The leopard is one 
 of the most feared animals of these forests. The gorilla is 
 said to kill the leopard, but is not so dangerous to man 
 as this great cat. Thus it is considered a great feat to kill 
 one of these animals, and the whole camp was alive with 
 excitement. Guns were fired, and everybody shouted aloud 
 
 ■^^^-::^§''<' 
 
 NOHEKI — A DIMINUTIVE GAZELLE. 
 
 In the midst of this noise Mamkala came into camp with 
 some wild boars and a ncheri — a curious little beast — which 
 were a welcome addition to our hill of fare. 
 
 Then, after supper, the men painted themselves and sang 
 songs over the leopards till I made them go to sleep, whioli 
 was not till towards morning. They danced, they sang 
 songs of victory, they abused and exulted over the deceased 
 leopard. They addressed comical compliments to its beauty — 
 and it is really a most beautiful animal. They shouted, 
 " Now you will kill no more people ! Now you will eat no 
 more hunters ! Now you cannot leap on your prey ! " And 
 so on, till the mummery grevs^ past laughing at. 
 
128 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XII. 
 
 The next morning, however, I first learned the full extent 
 of their rejoicing, and the great importance attached to the 
 killing of this feared beast. I was drawn to where we had 
 suspended the body to keep the ants from it by a noise of 
 angry quarrelling, and found Niamkala asserting his deter- 
 mination to have the end of the leopard's tail, while the rest 
 of- the hunters were all asserting equal rights to it, and the 
 non-combatants, tlie bearers of our luggage, looked on in 
 envious silence, evidently wishing they could also put in 
 claims. On inquiry, I found that the lucky possessor of the 
 end of a leopard's tail was sure to be fortunate among the 
 women, and could, in virtue of this powerful charm, win as 
 many hearts as he might desire. 
 
 Laughing at them, I reserved the desired tail for him 
 among them who should behave best, and thought I had 
 settled the quarrel. But now came a fresh division. Aboko, 
 Niamkala, and Fasiko each wanted the whole brain of the 
 animal. For a few minutes a fight seemed imminent on this 
 head, which seemed even more strenuously disputed than the 
 other. I discovered that the brain, if properly dried and 
 mixed with some other charm called monda, and the nature 
 of which I could not understand, gave its possessor dauntless 
 courage and great fortune on the hunt. And I was so happy 
 as to persuade my three hunters — who really needed no such 
 amulet to patch up their courage — that a part was in this 
 case as good as the whole. 
 
 This settled, I found that the liver was laid before me. As 
 this had no value or interest for me, I was going to kick it 
 aside and walk off, but was stopped and entreated to take off 
 the gall, and myself destroy it. This was to be done to save 
 the whole party from future trouble. It appears that the 
 negroes believe the gall of the leopard to be deadly poison, 
 and my men feared to be suspected of having concealed some 
 of this poison by their friends or enemies at Sangatanga. 
 To settle which beforehand I was now to destroy it, and 
 afterwards to bear witness for them, if by chance they were 
 accused of poisoning. Of course I did so, though convinced 
 that this is a mere superstitious belief. 
 
 A strange and horrid form of monomania is sometimes dis- 
 
Ohap. XII. POPULAR SUPERSTITIONS. 129 
 
 played by these primitive negroes. An instance was related 
 to me so circumstantially by Akondogo, cbief of one of the 
 Commi villages, and so well confirmed by others, that I can- 
 not help fully believing in all the principal facts of the case. 
 
 Poor Akondogo said that he had had plenty of trouble in 
 his day ; that a leopard had killed two of his men, and that 
 he had a great many palavers to settle on account of these 
 deaths. 
 
 Not knowing exactly what he meant, I said to him, " Why 
 did you not make a trap to catch the leopard?" To my 
 astonishment, he replied, " The leopard was not of the kind 
 you mean. It was a man who had changed himself into a 
 leopard, and then became a man again." I said, " Akondogo, 
 I will never believe your story. How can a man be turned 
 into a leopard ? " He again asserted that it was true, and 
 gave me the following history : — 
 
 Whilst he was in the woods with his people, gathering 
 india-rubber, one of his men disappeared, and, notwithstand- 
 ing all their endeavours, nothing could be found of him but 
 a quantity of blood. The next day another man disappeared, 
 and in searching for him more blood was found. All the 
 people got alarmed, and Akondogo sent for a great Doctor to 
 drink the mboundou, and solve the mystery of these two 
 deaths. To the horror and astonishment of the old chief, the 
 doctor declared it was Akondogo's own child (his nephew and 
 heir), Akosho, who had killed the two men. Akosho was sent 
 for, and, when asked by the chief, answered that it was truly 
 he who had committed the murders ; that he could not help 
 it, for he had turned into a leopard, and his heart longed for 
 blood ; and that after each deed he had turned into a man 
 again. Akondogo loved his boy so much that he would not 
 believe his own confession, until the boy took him to a place 
 in the forest where lay the two bodies, one with the head cut 
 off, and the other with the belly torn open. Upon this, 
 Akondogo gave orders to seize the lad. He was bound with 
 ropei, taken to the village, and there tied in a horizontal 
 position to a post, and burnt slowly to death, all the people 
 standing by until he expired. 
 
 But on careful inquiry, I found it was a case of mono- 
 
130 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Ohap. XII. 
 
 mania in the boy Akosho, and that he really was the murderer 
 of the two men. It is probable that the superstitious belief 
 of these morbidly imaginative Africans in the transformation 
 of men into leopards, being i arly instilled into the minds of 
 their children, is the direct cause of murders being committed 
 under the influence of it. The boy himself, as well as Akon- 
 dogo and all the people, believed he had really turned into a 
 leopard, and the cruel punishment was partly in vengeance 
 for witchcraft, and partly to prevent the committal of more 
 crimes by the boy in a similar way, for, said they, the man 
 has a spirit of witchcraft. 
 
 Elephants are not very plentiful in this region, at least at 
 this season, and seem to travel a good deal, not finding their 
 feed in such abundance as to induce them to stay long in one 
 place. We had travelled nearly the whole of the 7th, when 
 at last, late in the afternoon, we came across our quarry. 
 Emerging from a thick part of the forest into the plain which 
 bordered it, we saw to our left, just upon the edge of the 
 wood, a solitary bull-elephant. The huge animal stood quietly 
 by a tree, unconscious of our joresence. I was struck with 
 the vast bulk of this giant of the forests. The eye and mind 
 had leisure to dwell upon his size, and the place was well 
 adapted to comparisons. Trees seemed but small saplings to 
 me when I measured them with the immense beast which was 
 standing placidly near them. 
 
 But there was not much time for this feeling. What we 
 had to do was to kill him, though I felt a sense of pity at 
 destroying so great a life. I was very anxious to get the 
 first shot myself, but, after taking in all the chances of ap- 
 proach, was compelled to admit that I could not manage it 
 with any certainty'. Tlie grass was burned in every direction 
 to leeward of him, and, we dared not risk approaching him 
 from the windward for fear he should smell us. 
 
 I was therefore reluctantly compelled, as a sensible hunter, 
 to resign in favour of Aboko, whose eyes glistened with 
 pleasure, at the oj)portimity of showing his skill. 
 
 Cocking his musket, he dropped down into the short grass, 
 and began to creep up to the elephant, slowly, and on his 
 belly. It was a splendid piece of woodcraft. We stood be- 
 
Chap. XII. A PIllZE. lai 
 
 hind some trees, whither we had all retired to consult, and 
 watched Aboko as he glided through the grass, for all the 
 world like a huge boa-constrictor ; for the slight glimpses we 
 caught of his back, as he moved farther and farther away 
 from us, resembled nothing so much as the folds of a great 
 serpent winding his way on. 
 
 Finally we could no longer distinguish any motion. Then 
 all was silence and impatient waiting, suddenly broken by 
 the sharp report of a gun ringing through the wood and over 
 the plain, and eliciting screams of surprise from sundry 
 scared monkeys and birds who had perhaps watched the 
 secret approach with us, though from a better point of view. 
 As the smoke cleared away I saw the huge beast helplessly 
 tottering, till it finally threw up its trunk and fell in a dead 
 mass at the foot of a tree. The men began to shout with 
 excitement at such a good shot, and we all hurried up to the 
 shapeless black mass, whose flesh was yet quivering with the 
 death-agony. Aboko's bullet had entered its head below the 
 ear, and, striking the brain, was at once fatal. 
 
 Aboko began to make fetich-marks on the ground around 
 the body, and, this done, we took an axe which we had 
 carried along and broke the skull, in order to get out the two 
 tusks. These belonged to Aboko of right, but, as he was 
 King Ban go's slave, he was bound to give one to that sable 
 tyrant. The proceeds of the other would be divided among 
 the party, Aboko retaining, of course, the most considerable 
 share. The tusks weighed but 30 pounds each. 
 
 We slept that night near our prize, about which the natives 
 built a ring of fire to keep off intruders. The next morning, 
 when news came into camp of our luck, all the fellows hurried 
 out to bring in the meat, which was immediatelj' smoked, and 
 was to be carried into Sangatanga to be sold and given away. 
 
 I never saw men happier than these poor fellows. They 
 ate nothing but meat, but ate such quantities that several of 
 them have got sick, and I have been obliged to give them 
 laudanum in brandy to cure their diarrhoea. The camp is 
 full of meat. I had to have a separate shanty built on one 
 side and to leeward of the camp, where all the meat is now 
 smoked and kept, as I could not stand the smell. 
 
132 EQUATOBIAL AFSWA. Chap. XII. 
 
 The 16tli and 17tli were passed in shooting birds about the 
 camp, some of which I have stuffed, but no new species. The 
 men had meantime been hunting and exploring in various 
 directions ; and as tliey reported that great herds of buffalo 
 (Bos hracMclieros) frequented every night a prairie situated 
 about ten miles from our camp, I determined to have a set-to. 
 
 Wo set out towards .sunset of the 17th, and by 8 o'clock 
 reached the forest wliicli bounded the prairie in which we 
 hoped to find our game. Securing for oui-selves safe hiding- 
 places in the woods on the edgo of the plain, we lay down 
 and waited. 
 
 Now, waiting is tedious ; but waiting in a cold night from 
 8 to 2 o'clock, every moment expecting what does not come, 
 is apt to try the patience. Mine was entirely gone, and I 
 wished mj'self comfortably under my blanket in camp, when 
 suddenly the buffaloes came. Aboko heard them coming, and 
 presently a herd of about twenty-five stately animals emerged 
 from the woods and scattered quietly about the grassy plain. 
 The moon was going down, and we could see from our hiding- 
 place the long shadows of the buffaloes silentl^^ gliding one 
 way and another, but never near enough to us for a shot. 
 Soon they felt quite at ease anil began feeding, ever and anon 
 gambolling sportively with each other. Seeing them en- 
 gaged, we crawled upon them with great care, and at a snail's 
 speed. We had almost got within safe range when a sudden 
 change of wind discovered us to them. Thej' snuffed up the 
 air suspiciously, and instantly gathering together disappeared 
 in the woods. 
 
 We reached King Bango's residence on the afternoon of the 
 23rd. The men who were his slaves immediately surrendered 
 to him a great part of what they had brought in, whether 
 meat or ivory ; and then, protesting that this was all, were 
 let go about their business, and to tell their adventures to 
 their excited townsmen, amid whose enthusiastic acclamations 
 we had entered the town. 
 
 My men came on the 27th to be paid. We parted with 
 great good-feeling. If I ever want them thej' will be glad 
 to come with me ; and I should be glad to have them, for they 
 were a very good set of fellows. 
 
Chap. XII. OROUNGOU BVRYING-GEOUND. 133 
 
 To the reader there may seem little real difference in con- 
 dition between slave and freeman in Africa, but in reality the 
 difference is quite as great here as it is in other and more 
 civilized slave-holding nations. Even in this rude Ca})e 
 Lopez country to bo born of a slave mother is a disgrace, and 
 debars the unfortunate from much of the respect and autlio- 
 rit}' which his daily companions enjoy, and this thougli the 
 child so born is in reality free, as it follows the condition of 
 the father. The slave, in Africa, does not speak for himself. 
 If he is in trouble, if there is an " adultery palaver," a 
 " stealing palaver," or " trading palaver," his master must 
 speak for him, and clear him if possible. 
 
 Near Fetich Point is the Oroungouburying-ground, which 
 I went to visit. It was distant about half a daj''s pull in a 
 canoe. It is a grove of noble trees, many of them of mag- 
 nificent size and shape. The natives hold this place in great 
 reverence, and refused at first to go with me on my contem- 
 plated visit, even desiiing that I should not go. I explained 
 to them that I did not go to laugh at their dead, but rather 
 to pay them honour. But it was only by the promise of a 
 large reward that I at last persuaded Niamkala, who was of 
 our party, to accompany me. The 'negroes visit the i^lace 
 only on funeral errands, and hold it in the greatest awe, 
 conceiving that hero the spirits of their ancestors wander 
 about, and that these are not lightly to be disturbed. I am 
 quite sure that treasure to any amount might be left here 
 exposed iu perfect safety. 
 
 The grove stands by the sea-shore. It is entirely cleared 
 of underbrush, and, as the wind sighs through the dense 
 foliage of the trees and whisjsers in the darkened, somewhat 
 gloomy grove, it is an awful place, even to an unimpressible 
 white man. Niamkala stood in silence by the strand, while 
 I entered the domains of the Oroiingou dead. 
 
 They are n(jt i)ut below the surface. They lie about 
 beneath the trees in huge wooden coffins, some of which, 
 by their new look, betokened recent arrivals ; but by far the 
 greater number were crumbling away. Here was a coffin 
 falling to pieces, and disclosing a grinning skeleton within. 
 On the other side wore skeletons, already without covers, 
 
134 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XII. 
 
 which lay in dust beside them. Everywhere were bleached 
 bones and mouldering remains. It was curious to see the 
 brass anklets and bracelets in which some Oroungou maiden 
 had been buried still surrounding her whitened bones, and 
 to note the remains of goods which had been laid in the 
 same cofiSn with some wealthy fellow, now mouldering to 
 dust at his side. In some places there remained only little 
 lieaps of shapeless dust, from which some copper, or iron, or 
 ivory ornament gleamed out to prove that here, too, once lay 
 a corpse. 
 
 Passing on to a yet more sombre gloom, I came at last to 
 the grave of old King Pass-all, the brother of his present 
 majesty. The coffin lay on the ground, and was surrounded 
 on every side with great chests which contained the pro- 
 perty of his deceased majesty. Among these chests and on 
 the top of them were piled huge earthenware jugs, glasses, 
 mugs, plates, iron pots and bars, brass and copper rings, and 
 other precious things which this old Pass-all had determined 
 to carry at last to the grave with him. And, also, there lay 
 around numerous skeletons of the poor slaves who were, to 
 the number of one hundred, killed when the king died, that 
 his ebonj' kingship might not pass into the other world 
 without due attendance. 
 
 One day I saw a negro carpenter fellow go into his private 
 fetich-house, and was lucky enough to be able to watch his 
 motions without being discovered. He first built a little fire 
 in the middle of the hut, then stripped and marked his body 
 with white chalk, making very peculiar and careful stripes 
 on one of his arms and in the centre of his breast. While 
 doing this, which took some time, he kept up a constant 
 mumbling of Avords which I could not understand, but which 
 were doubtless prayers addressed to his fetich. Then the 
 fire was extinguished and the hut was shut. When he came 
 out I laughed at him ; but he took the whole matter very 
 seriously, of course, and told me that the spirit Numha, which 
 has its dwelling in the ocean, had gone into his chest, and 
 would kill him if he had not exorcised it by the ceremony I 
 saw. This spirit, Numba, has also something to do with the 
 moon, but what I could not discover. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Camma country — The coast line — Surf — The schooner Caroline — 
 Crew— A toniado— Trouble at the mouth of the Fertiand Vaz river — 
 King Sangula and Eanpano — Sangala sends a hostage — Great palaver 
 — Intense excitement — Discretion the better part of valour — Building 
 my settlement — I have to be severe. 
 
 The " Camma country " begins to tlie south of Cape Lopez in 
 lat. 0' 40' S., and extends to the southward as far as the Eiver 
 Camma, in lat. 1° 50' S., and to the east for about fifty miles 
 from the coast. It is a well- watered region ; the Mexias, and 
 some minor branches of the great Ogobay River, running 
 into the sea in its northern bounds, while the Fernand Vaz, 
 the Camma, and the Setti have their mouths farther down, 
 at various points of the Camma coast. 
 
 The coast-line is generally low and swampy ; a heavj' surf 
 makes landing difficult, exce^jt at a few points protected by the 
 shape of the land ; and the shore, viewed from the sea, has so 
 monotonous an aspect that seamen find it difficult to recognize 
 their whereabouts, even after considerable experience of the 
 coast. The mouths of the rivers, however, are readily recog- 
 nized by the great streams of fresh water which they send 
 with considerable force into the sea, discolouring it for some 
 distance from shore, ^s also by the breakers on the bars which 
 line their mouths. 
 
 The surf on the coast is much the worst during the dry 
 season, or from June to September. During the rains land- 
 ino- is much easier; but even then one needs skilful natives 
 and the best canoes. 
 
 I knew by experience that I should meet with more than 
 usual difficulties in mj' attempts to penetrate into the interior. 
 The natives here had never heard of me ; they had had so 
 little intercourse with whites that they were even more 
 jealous than those to the north ; and I expected nothing less 
 than to have, in the first place, to win their confidencfe and 
 respect by living among them near the coast for a consider- 
 able time. For this reason I made preparations for an 
 absence of from fourteen to twenty months, during which I 
 expected to be entirely alone. 
 
136 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIII. 
 
 When all was ready I went on board the Caroline — and 
 should have been glad to have come immediately ashore 
 again. My captain was a Portuguese negro, Cornillo by 
 name. The crew, who numbered no less than seven, were 
 Mpongwe, Mbenga, and Croomen, no more than two of whom 
 could understand each other, and not a soul could understand 
 the captain. To add a little more to this confusion of 
 tongues, I brought on board two Mpongwe men and their 
 wives, who were to serve me as headmen, interpreters, and 
 for other purposes in the new locality where I intended to 
 make my home. 
 
 We got on board at daylight, and by dint of steady shout- 
 ing and a great deal of loafing about, with a little work 
 now and then, we got the anchor up just at dusk. The 
 captain did not much like that we should leave port on 
 Friday, but I told him I would take the responsibility. No 
 sooner had we got out into the swell than every man (and 
 woman) on board, except the captain, got sea-sick. The cook 
 was unable to make breakfast next morning, the men were 
 lying about looking like dying fish, and in the canoe which 
 we had on deck, Oyaya, one of my Mpongwe men, sea-sick 
 himself, was vainly striving to comfort his newly-married 
 wife, who was more sea-sick than he. 
 
 We hoped to get down to the Camma region in five days. 
 But on the 5th, our sailing-day, and for three successive days 
 thereafter, we had light head winds and a head current, and 
 on February 10th we were caught in such a storm as I hope 
 never to be in at sea again. 
 
 The- steering had gone on so badly when the captain was 
 below that I was forced to stand watch. I was sleeping 
 soundly, having steered for four hours, and had been perhaps 
 an hour in my berth, when I was awakened by the captain's 
 voice giving orders to take down the mainsail. I jumped on 
 deck immediately, knowing there must be at least a heavy 
 squall coming. But no sooner did I cast my eye to leeward than 
 I saw how imminent the danger was. This coast is troubled 
 by frequent squalls of wind, lasting, in general, but a short 
 time, but of terrible violence, and followed by torrents of 
 rain. Such a squall was now coming up. The black clouds 
 
Chap. XIII. A FERILOVS POSITION. 137 
 
 wliicli had gathered about the horizon were becoming lurid 
 white with startling quickness. It seemed ahnost as though 
 they were lit up bj' lightning. This was the wind, which 
 would now in a moment be upon us. As yet, all was still. 
 
 I turned to see if the mainsail was down, but found nothing 
 done to meet the squall. The captain was shouting from the 
 wheel, the men were running about, half-scared to death, 
 also shouting, and in the pitchy darkness (for I could not 
 actually see my hands when held close before my eyes) no 
 one could find the halliards. In the midst of our trouble the 
 wind came roaring down. I seized a knife determined to 
 cut everything away ; but just then somebody let go the 
 halliards, and, in the nick of time the mainsail came half- 
 way down. Just then the squall broke upon us with the 
 roar and force of a tornado. The jibs flew away in rags in a 
 moment. The vessel sank over on her beam-ends. The 
 water rushed on to her decks, and the men sung out that we 
 were drowning, as, in fact, we should have been in a very 
 few minutes. Happily the wind sliifted a little, and by the 
 light of some vivid lightning we seized on the mainsail and 
 pulled it down, holding it so that the wind should not catch 
 it again. 
 
 So she righted, and in about twenty minutes the squall 
 died off, and was succeeded by a driving rain, pouring down 
 in such torrents, that we could get no protection from it even 
 below. 
 
 The next morning we had no jibs, and our other sails were 
 severely damageil. This did not help us along very fast. It 
 was not tiU the 13th that we made the land; but now no 
 one on board knew where we were, not even our captain, who 
 brings up every day an old quadrant, about the use of which 
 he knows as much as a cow does about a musket. At last a 
 canoe came off to ask me to land to start a factory, as they 
 had plenty of ivory and palm-oil and other trade. If I had 
 gone ashore I should probably have found not a gallon of oil, 
 not the smallest tusk of ivory. The great anxiety of every 
 one of these negroes is for a factory, just as a western town- 
 builder's chief desire is for a railroad. They lie, and beg, 
 and almost force a white man ashore, thinking themselves 
 
138 EQVATOIIIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIII. 
 
 safe if tliey can induce him to set up a little factory and 
 trust them with some goods ; for they do not, as a general 
 thing, intend to pay him. 
 
 However, a speculative friend in the canoe informed us we 
 were off Cape St. Catherine, and therefore a good many miles 
 south of the mouth of the Fernand Vaz ; so we turned about 
 to retrace our steps. Sailing close in shore, at every village 
 we passed we were hailed by canoes full of negroes begging 
 us to start a factory in their place. In some villages we 
 could even see the large house, looking very fine from the 
 sea, but doubtless poor enough seen close to, which was 
 intended for the great factory which should make everybody 
 rich. This house was genei'ally surrounded by huts, in 
 which lived the natives waiting for their commercial millen- 
 nium, which, alas ! never comes. I paid no attention to 
 their entreaties, and was even firm enough, to the surprise of 
 everybody, to decline a magnificent offer of two slaves made 
 by the natives of Aniambia, or Big Camma, who came off 
 with a message from their king. 
 
 At last we came to the mouth of the Fernand Vaz, and our 
 fame and the disappointment of the natives had gone befoie 
 us. It had been determined in the Gaboon that I should set 
 up my establishment in the town of King Eanpano. As the 
 Caroline passed Ranpano's sea- village, of course a canoe came 
 off to beg me to land. But they evidently had little hope; 
 and their surprise was extravagant when I assented, and told 
 them I had come on purpose to set up a factory with them. 
 
 I never saw men so anxious for trade as these wild Africans 
 are. They remind me of what is said of Western land specu- 
 lators, and really they have quite as much enterprise and 
 quite as sanguine a temperament as those worthies. 
 
 Eanpano's men, in whose town it had been determined I 
 should set up my establishment, wanted much to hug me, 
 and were so extravagant in their joy that I had to order 
 them to keep their hands oif. I sent one of my men in their 
 boat to bear a message to the king, and took one of theirs for 
 a pilot, being now anxious to get across the intricate bar and 
 fairly into the river before dark. As we sailed along into 
 the river, boats shot out to meet us belonging to different 
 
Chap. XIII. I LAND AT ELINDE. 139 
 
 villages, and presently I had a oiowd alongside anxiuus to 
 board us and sufficient almost to sink us. They took me for 
 a slaver at first, and immediately called out their names in 
 Portuguese. One was Don Miguel, another Don Pedro, 
 another Don Francisco. They began to jabber away in 
 Portuguese, which I do not understand, so I set my captain 
 at them, who had some difficulty in pursuading them that I 
 came on no such errand. They belonged to Elinde, a town 
 just at the mouth of the Fernand Vaz, whose king is named 
 Sangala. They praised the greatness and power of Sangala, 
 and decried poor Kanpano, until I had to order all hands 
 ashore for the night, being anxious to get a good quiet sleep 
 to prepare for to-morrow. 
 
 During the night a fellow named Nchouga came off to see 
 me. He was brother to the king of Cape Lopez. The king, 
 falling sick, accused this Nchouga of bewitching him ; where- 
 upon the latter, to save his life, fled the country and came 
 down to get protection from Sangala, his father-in-law. 
 This is one of the uses of fathers-in-law. 
 
 Nchouga now came off to tell me that Sangala was master 
 of all the river, and that he would not let me go up to 
 Eanpano's, who was only a vassal of the great Sangala. 
 Therefore he advised me as a friend to go ashore at Elinde. 
 Fortunately, I knew Mr. Nchouga. 
 
 Next morning (14th) Sangala sent off a boat for me. I 
 took two interpreters, and, on my arrival in Elinde, which is 
 about two miles from the river's mouth, was conducted to 
 the best house. Hither came Sangala presently, drunk, and 
 attended by a great crowd of eager subjects. He grew very 
 angry when I stated my intention of passing up the river 
 and going into the interior ; declared I should not ; he was 
 the big king, and I must settle in his town. 
 
 We had some sharp words, and I explained to his majesty 
 that I saw through all his lies. Then he said he would 
 not make any palaver if I would have a factory in his town 
 too. 
 
 I refused, but oifered to dash him — give him some pre- 
 sents. 
 
 He refused this offer. And now, Eanpano having come, 
 
HO liQUATOIlIAL AFRICA. Chaf. XIII. 
 
 anrl assuring me that I should be backed up, I told Sangala 
 I should force my way up. 
 
 All this time rain was pouring down. When the talk 
 ended Eanpano took me in his canoe to his river-village, a 
 town which the pcop)le had but just started, their real town 
 being on the sea. Thither (to the sea-town) we went next 
 day. I found it a very substantial place for an African town, 
 having some good houses, and looking much like a Mpongwe 
 village. But I saw that my goods could not be brought 
 hither without great trouble, nor nry specimens of natural 
 history shipped through the surf without great danger, and 
 so told Eanpano I raust live on the river ; whereupon he 
 gave me at once as much land as I wanted, and I am to have 
 houses built for myself. 
 
 Meantime the excitement had spread over the country, and 
 all Eanpano's friends gathered to help fight Sangala. Tt was 
 really a droll but exciting scene to see canoe after canoe come 
 in, loaded with armed men, drums beating, and all hands 
 shouting and waving swords, guns, and spears. All were 
 prepared to assist Eanpano's white man, and all were anxious 
 to burn and plunder Elinde. King Eitimbo, who has a 
 i'actory in his own town, kept by a Mpongwe fellow, and 
 belonging to a New York house, had two canoes and fifty 
 men. King Mombo, from Sanguibuiri, had also two canoes; 
 in short, we had in all no less than twenty big canoes, and 
 could muster, on the morning of the 17l-h, about three 
 hundred men, most of whom were drunk on palm-wine, and 
 as noisy and as ready for fight as drunkenness will make an 
 African. 
 
 Drums were beaten, and songs sung, and guns fired, as we 
 paddled down the river ; all hands had their faces painted 
 white, which is a sign of war, and were covered with fetiches, 
 greegrees, and other amulets. One who did not know the 
 genuine and never-failing cowardice of the Africans, would 
 have supposed these terrible fellows bent upon the most 
 bloody of raids. I was not disappointed when, sighting 
 Sangala's town, they pushed over to the other shore out of 
 the way, and took care to keep the Caroline between the 
 enemy and themselves. 
 
CiiAp. xm, I AM MADE KINO. 141 
 
 We found that Sangala had also gathered his friends, and 
 had about one hundred and fifty men ready for fight. These 
 fellows were painted more outrageously than my side, having 
 red as well as white applied in broad stripes. They looked 
 like so many devils, shouting and firing oif guns — ^eaoh side 
 knowing the oomiuou lack of courage, and thinking it prudent 
 to scare the other in advance. 
 
 There was a grand palaver, in the midst of which I sent 
 word to Sangala that if he stopped me I would blow his 
 canoes out of the water with grape-shot, and then go and 
 bring a man-of-war to finish him up. (This threat of a man- 
 of-war always strikes terror into their guilty consciences.) 
 I loaded my guns and pistols, and made my men put good 
 charges into their pieces, and awaited the event. 
 
 Presently a boat came to ask me ashore, Sangala sending 
 his chief wife to be hostage for my safety. I determined to 
 go ashore, and, to show these negroes that I had no fear of 
 them, took the woman along with me, to her great joy. 
 Eanpano and his brother kings protested against my rashness, 
 as they thought it. All this had its effect upon them, and 
 Eanpano was evidently impressed, as also was old Sangala. 
 
 We met on neutral ground outside his town. His army 
 was drawn up in battle array, and made a fine savage dis- 
 play, many of the men, in addition to their paints, wearing 
 beautiful leopard-skins about their waists. They came up to 
 us at a full trot when we were seated, and made as though 
 they would spear us all ; but it was only a kind of military 
 salute. After this, Sangala said he would let me pass up for 
 a barrel of rum. I refused to give rum, but was obliged to 
 give him 1 6 dollars, also a number of pieces of cloth and other 
 things, and then the great quarrel was settled. 
 
 Eanpano was delighted. He said he would no more be 
 king, but install me in his place, and made the greatest 
 promises of good treatment. We loaded seventeen canoes 
 from the Caroline, and pulled up to the village where I was 
 to make my home and headquarters for some time ; and, to 
 my great astonishment, though we did not reach the town 
 till after dark, not a thing was stolen. The next day the 
 schooner was emptied; and, I am glad to say, thej' stole not 
 11 
 
142 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIII. 
 
 a single article from me. While I was thinking over a plan 
 for my house, on the evening of my arrival, in came Eanpano 
 with his head wife to get his present. He came slily, that 
 his people might not see him ; and I made him happy w^ith 
 ten pieces of cloth, a gun, a neptune,"* a kettle, and some beads 
 and other trifles. 
 
 The next day everybody was set to work. I chose the 
 site for the house, a beautiful little spot in the high prairie 
 about one hundred and fifty yards distant from the huts of the 
 village. It faced the river which I was to explore, and where 
 a school of hippopotami were playing about every day on a 
 shoal; had a grove at its back, and a rivulet of clear spring- 
 water rippling along one side. 
 
 Hither every day the men brought me the long straight 
 branches of a kind of palm growing by the river-side, which 
 are used for the sides of a native house. Some gathered the 
 leaves of the same tree, from which mats for roofing are 
 made, and others went through the woods collecting wild 
 vines, with which to tie the poles or bamboos together, and 
 long slender poles to set up at the corners to tie the bamboo 
 sides up to. The women cleaned the ground, and every 
 evening huge piles of building-material were laid at my feet, 
 of which I accepted what was good, and sent away the rest. 
 
 Everything went on very pleasantly until the 10th of 
 April, when pay-day came for my men. I had settled with 
 some, when a fellow for whose labour I had promised him 
 twenty-fou]' dollars in goods, had the imj)udence to ask forty 
 for his party. I refused, whereupon one of the workmen 
 threatened me with his knife. Here was a very bad case 
 indeed, and one of which I felt that I must make an example. 
 I ran for my gun, and threatened to shoot the fellow, who 
 was put out of my way by his friends. Then I called for 
 the king, and demanded that the rascal should be sent to my 
 house in chains. 
 
 He said " Yes," but evidently did not want to find him ; 
 and I, who felt that I must make an example of the man if 
 I looked for peace and respect in the future, only insisted the 
 more that they should catch him. 
 
 * A flat copper disli to boil salt water in ortler to procure the salt. 
 
Chap. XIII. MY DEALINGS WITH THE NATIVES. 148 
 
 At last, seeing that they only pretended, I sent for my 
 Crooraen and began to pack up my goods, saying I would go 
 back to the Gaboon, and would not stay among such men. 
 
 The king came to me, and upon his knees begged me not 
 to go; and finally, seeing I was determined, set oflf with 
 some men for the plantation where they had stowed the 
 offender. He was one of the oldest and most influential 
 people of the town, and they were very loth to give him up. 
 
 On the next day (the I2th) the man, whose name was 
 Ovenga, was brought in. The excitement was intense. The 
 people were gathered in a crowd, and talked over the matter ; 
 the king looked almost pale with anxiety, and Ovenga him- 
 self shook like a leaf. I demanded that he should be tied, 
 brought to my house, and severely flogged. They begged 
 that his cloth might not be taken oft", as it would be a disgrace 
 to expose an old man. To this I consented ; but sat, with a 
 hard, stern face, waiting for the poor criminal. When at 
 last he stood bound before me, I scolded him well for his 
 attempt to cheat, and made much of the enormity of his 
 threat. Then I said I could pay only what I had promised ; 
 that it was a great outrage to threaten with a knife; that 
 his own people acknowledged my justice in tlogging him, but 
 that, as they did not know " white man's fashions " in such 
 matters, I had determined to forgive him, and not flog him 
 at all ; with which I set him free. 
 
 Instantly thunders of applause rang through the village, 
 guns were fired, singing and dancing began all over, and 
 never was such a set of jolly fellows. It was the only way 
 to treat them. If I had passed Ovenga's threat by, I should 
 probably have been murdered at some future time. 
 
 On the 13th of April I took possession of my new place, 
 which, being quite a village, I have called Washington. 
 
 At the back of my house is a wide extent of prairie. In 
 front is the river Npoulounai winding along ; and I can see 
 miles on the way which I shall soon explore. Its banks are 
 lined with mangroves ; and, looking up stream almost any 
 time, I can see schools of hippopotami tossing and tumbling 
 on the flats. 
 
 As I am entirely at the mercy of the negroes now, I am 
 
144 EQUATOniAl AFRICA. Chap, XIV. 
 
 very strict, but entirely just, in my dealings ; making myself 
 obeyed, and that without loss of time. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The Commi people — KingOlenga-Yombi — I am obliged to attend a ball — 
 Native love of rum — Fetich-houses — Mbuirri and Abambou — Ovengua 
 — Ifouta tossed by a buffalo — A live young gorilla — How he was cap- 
 tured — His appearance — I call him " Joe " — He is uutameable — Hia 
 escape and recapture — Death of Joe — Shipping a young gorilla for 
 London — Surprising gorillas in a plantain plantation — How gorillas 
 walk — Another young live gorilla — How he was captured — The 
 mother brought in not dead — Gorilla are often gregarious — Shooting 
 hippopotami at night on shore — Habits of the hippopotamus — Combat 
 between two hippopotami. 
 
 And now, having finished my village, I vsrill say a word 
 about the people. They are very much like the Mpongwe, 
 and have the same language, with a few local variations. 
 The women here, also, wear on their legs a large number of 
 brass rings. 
 
 They call themselves Oommi. They possess the sea-shore 
 from south of Cape Lopez to Cape St. Catherine, having also 
 one or two villages on the Mexii-s. Their chief town is 
 Aniambia, once a large and flourifcisBjg place. 
 
 Every enterprising Commi fellow builds a few huts for a 
 village in what he thinks an advantageous situation ; then 
 builds a big house for the factory which is to come ; and then 
 does nothing for the remainder of his life but wait for this 
 blissful coming. It does not occur to him to collect ivory, or 
 oil, or india-rubber. He prefers rather to lie in wait for 
 passing vessels, and try with his most honeyed words to 
 persuade some luckless captain ashore. 
 
 I bought a splendid canoe, which I hoped would be service- 
 able to me in my up-river explorations. I was now anxious 
 to be off, and determined to make a short trip to the sea-shore 
 by way of Aniambia. This would carry me first about 
 thirty-five miles up the Fernand Vaz, and then across the 
 land. 
 
Chap. XIV. 
 
 THE FEBNAND VAZ. 
 
 145 
 
 The mouth of the Fernand Vaz is obstructed by bars, on 
 which the sea breaks with considerable violence ; but the 
 channel has generally thiee, and in the rainy season four, 
 fathoms of water. The banks at the mouth are low; and it 
 
 COMMI MAN AND WOMAN. 
 
 is not only a diificult land-fall to make from sea, but a very 
 dreary piece of land when made. 
 
 On the morning of the 14th we set out. I had satisfied 
 myself that Kanpano was anxious to have me remain in his 
 
14G FQUAl'imiAL AFRICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 town, as were also his people : and I had little fear of injury 
 to my things in my absence so long as this good opinion of 
 me was kept up. I therefore called the people together 
 before my departure, and said that I had perfect confidence 
 in them ; that I was their white man, and had come to them 
 through much difficulty and danger (cheers) ; that Sangala 
 people wanted me, but I was determined to live with the 
 honest folks of Biagano (great cheering) ; that I was going 
 away for a few days, and hoped to find my gooils all safe 
 when I came back. 
 
 At this there were great shoutings of "You can go!" 
 " Do not fear ! " " We love you ! " " You are our white 
 man ! " " We will take care ! " and so on ; amid which my 
 sixteen men seized their paddles and we set off for Aniambia, 
 which lies on the sea-shore, near a point north of Cape St. 
 Catherine, and sufficiently sheltered to make a safe landing- 
 place. 
 
 The king, Olenga-Yombi, came in from his plantation 
 when he heard the joyful news that a white man had arrived, 
 and I made him a formal visit. He was a drunken old 
 fellow, surrounded by a crowd of the chief men of the town. 
 His majesty had on a thick overcoat, but no tro.users ; and, 
 early as it was, had already taken a goodly quantity of rum 
 or palm-wine. I was invited to sit at his right hand. I 
 told him I had come to purchase a little ivory and to hunt, 
 having heard that there was game in his country. After 
 presenting him with a few strips of cloth, some pipes, and 
 several heads of tobacco, which put him in a good temper, 
 he declared I was a good white man, and should go wherever 
 I chose. 
 
 On the next evening (17th), the king held a grand dance 
 in my honour. This is an honour I abominate, but one 
 which cannot be declined, because the natives enjoy it too 
 much themselves. All the king's wives, to the number of 
 forty, and all the women of the town and neighbourhood 
 were present. Tortunately the dance was held out in the 
 street, and not in a room. The women were ranged on one 
 side, the men opposite. At the end of the line sat the 
 drummei\s beating their huge tam-tams, which make an 
 
CnAr. XIV. ANIAMBIA 147 
 
 infernal and deafening din, enough to distract a man of weak 
 nerves. And, as tliough for this occasion the tam-tams were 
 not entirely adequate, there was singing, and shouting, and 
 a series of brass kettles, which also were furiously beaten ; 
 while, as a last and most ingenious addition, a number of 
 boys sat near the drummers beating on hollow pieces of wood. 
 It is curious what a stirring effect the sound of the tam-tam 
 has on the Africans ; they lose all control over themselves at 
 its sound, and the louder and more energetically the horrid 
 drum is beaten, the wilder are the jumps of tlio male African, 
 and the more disgustingly indecent the contortions of the 
 women. 
 
 As may be imagined, to beat the tam-tam is not a labour 
 of love. The stoutest negro is worn out in an hour at 
 furthest, and for such a night's entertainment as this a series 
 of drummers is required. 
 
 The people enjoyed it vastly, their only regret being that 
 tliey had not a bairel of rum to drink in the pauses of the 
 dance. But they managed to get just as drunk on palm- 
 wine, of which a great quantity was served out. The ex- 
 citement became greatest when the king danced. His 
 majesty was pretty drunk, and his jumps were very highly 
 applauded. His wives bowed down to his feet while he 
 capiered about, and showed him the deepest marks of venera- 
 tion, while the drums and kettles were belaboured more 
 furiously than ever. 
 
 The next day I visited the two fetich-houses. Aniambia 
 enjoys the protection of two spirits of very great power, 
 named Abambou and Mbuirri. The former is an evil spirit, 
 the latter is beneficent. They are both worshipped; and 
 their accommodations, so far as I was permitted to see, were 
 exactly alike. 
 
 The}' were housed in little huts, each about six feet square 
 and six feet high. The fetich-man, Avho is also doctor and 
 town-oracle, led me to where they stood together at the end 
 of the village, and respectfully opened the doors for me to 
 look into his holy places. 
 
 In the house of Abambou I saw a fire, which I was told is 
 not permitted to go out. I saw no idol, but only a large 
 
148 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 chest, on the top of which lay some white and red chalk and 
 some red parrot-feathers. The chalk is used to mark the 
 bodies of the devout on certain occasions when vows are 
 made. The feathers were probably part of the trappings of 
 the spirit. 
 
 Abambou, the devil of the Commi, is a wicked and mis- 
 chievous spirit, who lives near graves and in burial-grounds, 
 and is most comfortably lodged among the skeletons of the 
 dead. He takes occasional walks through the country ; and, 
 if he is angry at anyone, has the power to cause sickness and 
 death. Tlie Commi cook food for him, which is deposited in 
 lonely places in the woods ; and then they address him in a 
 flattering manner, and ask him to be good to them, and, in 
 consideration of their gifts, to leave them alone. I was 
 present once at a meeting where Abambou was being ad- 
 dressed in public. They cried continuallj'', " Now we are 
 well ! Now we are satisfied ! Now be our friend, and do 
 not hurt us ! " 
 
 The oiferings of plantain, sugar-cane, and ground-nuts are 
 wrapped in leaves by the free men, but the slaves lay them 
 on the bare ground. Sometimes Abambou is entreated to 
 kill the enemies of him who is making the sacrifice. A bed 
 is made in Abambou's house, and here he sometimes comes 
 to rest himself when he is tired of going up and down the 
 coast. At the new moon great quiet reigns in the Commi 
 villages, and then the people pray to their spirits, of whom 
 each family or subdivision of the tribe owns two, kept in a 
 small hut in the village of the oldest chief of that family. 
 
 Mbuirri, whose house I next visited, is lodged and kept 
 much as his rival. He is a good spirit, but has powers much 
 the same as Abambou, so far as I could see. Being less 
 wicked, he is not so zealously worshipped. 
 
 There is a third and much dreaded spirit, called Ovengua. 
 This is the terrible catcher and eater of men. He is not 
 worshipped, and has no power over diseases. But he 
 wanders unceasingly through the forests, and catches and 
 destroys luckless travellers who cross his path. By day he 
 lives in dark caverns, but at night he roams freely ; and even 
 sometimes gets into the body of a man, and beats and kills 
 
Chap. XIV. IFOVTA TOSSED BY A BULL. 149 
 
 all who come out in the dark. Sometimes, they relate, such 
 a spirit is met and resisted by a body of men, who wound 
 him with spears, and even kill him. In this case his body 
 must be burned, and not even the smallest bone left, lest a 
 new Ovengua should arise from it. There are many spots 
 where no object in the world would induce a Commi negro 
 to go by night, for fear of this dreadful monster. It is really 
 a frightful superstition to an ignorant and credulous people, 
 and I do not wonder at their fear. 
 
 They have a singular belief that when a person dies who 
 has been bewitched, the bones of his body leave the grave 
 one by one, and form in a single line, which line of bones 
 gradually become an Ovengua. 
 
 I set out early on the 19 th to try and get a shot at some 
 buffalo, which were said to be in the prairie at the back of 
 the town. Ifouta, a hunter, accompanied me, and met with 
 an accident through losing his presence of mind. We had 
 been out about an hour, when we came upon a bull feeding 
 in the midst of a little prairie surrounded by a wood which 
 made our approach easy. Ifouta walked around opposite to 
 where I lay in wait, in order that, if the animal took alarm 
 at him, it might run towards me ; and then began to crawl, 
 in the hunter fashion, through the grass towards his prey. 
 All went well till he came near enough for a shot. Just then, 
 unluckily, the bull saw him. Ifouta immediately fired. The 
 gun hung fire, and he only wounded the beast, which, quite 
 infuriated, as it often is at the attack of hunters, immediately 
 rushed upon him. 
 
 It was now that poor Ifouta lost his presence of mind. In 
 such cases, which are continually happening to those who 
 hunt the Bos brachicheros, the cue of the hunter is to remain 
 perfectly quiet till the beast is within a jump of him, then 
 to step nimbly to one side, and let it rush past. But Ifouta 
 got up and ran. 
 
 Of course, in a moment the bull had him on his horns. It 
 tossed him high into the air once, twice, thrice, ere 1 could 
 run up, and by my shouts, draw its fury to myself. Then it 
 came rushing at me. But my guns do not hang fire, and, as 
 I had a fair shot, I killed it without trouble. 
 

CiiAP. XIV. A LIVE JOVNG GORILLA. 151 
 
 Ifouta proved to be considerably bruised, but, on the whole, 
 more scared than hurt ; and when I bad washed him in a 
 creek close by, be was able to walk home. 
 
 I found, on my return, that all the Biagano people had 
 moved from the sea-shore and built themselves huts near my 
 house. I bad reason to fear for my fowls and goats ; but, on 
 remonstrating, was assured by all hands that they would 
 not steal from me, and that they did not want to live away 
 from their white man. Tobacco was what brought them to 
 me. They thought they would get none unless they were 
 near me. 
 
 On the 4th of May, some hunters who had been out on my 
 account brought in a young gorilla alive ! 
 
 YOUNG GORILLA. 
 
 It was a little fellow of between two and three years old, 
 two feet six inches in length, and as fierce and stubborn as a 
 grown animal could have been. 
 
 My hunters, whom I could have hugged to my heart, took 
 him in the country between the Kembo and Cape St. Catherine. 
 By their account, they were going, five in number, to a 
 village near the coast, and walking very silently through the 
 forest, when tbej' heard what they immediately recognized 
 as the cry of a young gorilla for its motJier. The forest was 
 silent. It was about noon ; and they immediately deter- 
 
152 KQUATOMIAL AFBICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 mined to follow the cry. Presently they heard it again. 
 Gnns in hand, the brave fellows crept noiselessly towards a 
 clump of wood, where the baby gorilla evidently was. They 
 knew the mother would be near ; and there was a likelihood 
 that the male, the most dreaded of all, might be there too. 
 But they determined to risk all, and, if at all possible, to take 
 the young one alive, knowing what a joy it would be for me. 
 
 Presently they perceived the bush moving ; and crawling 
 a little further on in dead silence, scarce breathing with ex- 
 citement, they beheld, what has seldom been seen even by the 
 negroes, a young gorilla, seated on the ground, eating some 
 berries which grew close to the earth. A few feet further on 
 sat the mother, also eating of the same fruit. 
 
 Instantly they made ready to fire ; and none too soon, for 
 the old female saw them as they raised their guns, and they 
 had to pull triggers without delay. Happily, they wounded 
 her mortally. 
 
 She fell. The young one, hearing the noise of the guns, 
 ran to his mother and clung to her, hiding his face, and em- 
 bracing her body. The hunters immediately rushed toward 
 the two, hallooing with joy as they ran on. But this roused 
 the little one, who instantly let go his mother and ran to a 
 small tree, which he climbed with great agility, and there he 
 sat and roared at them savagely. 
 
 They were now perplexed how to get at him. No one 
 cared to run the chance of being bitten by this savage little 
 beast, and shoot it they would not. At last they cut down 
 the tree, and, as it fell, dexterouslj' threw a cloth over the 
 head of the young monster, and thus gained time to secure it 
 while it was blinded. With all these precautions, one of the 
 men received a severe bite on the hand, and another had a 
 piece taken out of his leg. 
 
 As the little brute, though so diminutive, and the merest 
 baby for age, was astonishingly strong and by no means good- 
 tempered, they could not lead him. He constantly rushed at 
 them. So they were obliged to get a forked stick in which 
 his neck v\ as inserted in such a way that he could not escape, 
 and yet could be kept at a safe distance. In this uncomfort- 
 able way he was brought into the village. 
 
Chap. XIV. '-JOEY." ■ 153 
 
 There the excitement was interise. As the animal was 
 lifted out of the canoe in which he had come a little way 
 down the river, he roared and bellowed, and looked around 
 wildly with his wicked little eyes, giving fair warning that 
 if he could only get at some of us he would take his 
 revenge. 
 
 I saw that the stick hurt his neck, and immediately set 
 about to have a cage made for him. In two hours we had 
 built a strong bamboo house, with tho/slats securely tied at 
 such distances apart that we could see the gorilla and it 
 could see out. Here the captive was immediately deposited ; 
 and now, for the first time, I had a fair chance to look at my 
 prize. 
 
 It was a young male gorilla, evidently not j'et three years 
 old, fully able to walk alone, and possessed, for its age, of 
 most extraordinary strength and muscular development. Its 
 greatest length proved to be, afterwards, two feet six inches. 
 Its face and hands were very black, eyes not so much sunken 
 as in the adult. The hair began just at the eyebrows and 
 rose to the crown, where it was of a reddish-brown. It came 
 down the sides of the face in lines to the lower jaw much as 
 our beards grow. The upper lip was covered with short 
 coarse hair ; the lower lip had longer hair. The eyelids very 
 slight and thin. Eyebrows straight, and three-quarters of an 
 inch long. 
 
 The whole back was covered with hair of an iron-gray, 
 becoming dark nearer the arms, and quite white about the 
 anus. Chest and abdomen covered with hair, which was 
 somewhat thin and short on the breast. On the arms the 
 hair was longer than anywheve on the body, and of a grayish- 
 black colour, caused by the roots of the hair being dark and 
 the ends whitish. On the hands and wrists the hair was 
 black, and came down to the second joints of the fingers, 
 though one could see in the short down the beginning of the 
 lono- black hair which lines the upper parts of the fingers in 
 the adult. The hair of the legs wan grayish-black, becoming 
 blacker as it reached the ankles, the feet being covered with 
 black hair. 
 
 When I had the little fellow safely locked in his cage, I 
 
154 ' EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 ventured to approach, to say a fevvenooTiraging words to him. 
 He stood in the furthest corner, but, as I approached, bel- 
 lowed and made a precipitate rush at me ; and though I 
 retreated as quickly as I could, succeeded in catching my 
 trouser-legs, which he grasped with one of his feet and tore, 
 retreating immediately to the corner furthest away. This 
 taught me caution for the present, though I had a hope still 
 to be able to tame him. 
 
 He sat in his corner looking wickedly out of his gray eyes, 
 and I never saw a more morose or more ill-tempered face 
 than had this little beast. 
 
 The first thing was, of course, to attend to the wants of 
 my captive. I sent for some of the forest-berries which these 
 animals are known to prefer, and placed these and a cup of 
 water within his reach. He was exceedingly shy, and would 
 neither eat nor drink till I had removed to a considerable 
 distance. 
 
 The second day found Joe, as I had named him, fiercer 
 than the first. He rushed savagely at anyone who stood 
 even for a moment near his cage, and seemed ready to tear 
 us all to pieces. I threw him to-day some pine-apple leaves, 
 of which I noticed he ate only the white parts. There 
 seemed no difficulty about his food, though he refused now, 
 and continued during his short life to refuse, all food except 
 such wild leaves and fruits as were gathered from his native 
 woods for him. 
 
 The third day he was still morose and savage, bellowing 
 when any person approached, and either retiring to a distant 
 corner or rushing to attack. On the fourth day, while no 
 one was near, the little rascal succeeded in forcing apart two 
 of the bamboo rails which composed his cage, and made his 
 escape. I came up just as his flight was discovered, and 
 immediately got all the negroes together for pursuit, deter- 
 mining to surround the wood and recapture my captive. 
 Running into the house to get one of my guns, I was startled 
 by an angry growl issuing from under my low bedstead. It 
 was Master Joe, who lay there hidden, but anxiously watching 
 my movements. I instantly shut the windows, and called 
 to my people to guard the door. When Joe saw the crowd 
 
Chap. XIV. A SA VAGE PET. - 155 
 
 of black faces he became furious, and, witli bis eyes glaring, 
 and every sign of rage in bis little face and body, got out 
 from beneatb tbe bed. We shut tbe door at the same time 
 and left him master of the premises, preferring to devise some 
 plan for his easy capture rather than to expose ourselves to 
 his terrible teeth. 
 
 How to take him was now a puzzling question. He had 
 shown such strength and such rage already, that not even I 
 cared to run the chance of being badly bitten iu a hand-to- 
 hand struggle. Meantime, Joe stood in the middle of the 
 room looking about for his enemies, and examining, with 
 some surprise, tbe furniture. I watched with fear lest the 
 ticking of my clock should strike his ear, and perhaps lead 
 him to an assault upon that j)recious article. Indeed, I should 
 have left Joe in possession, but for a fear that be would 
 destroy the many articles of value or curiosity I had hung 
 about the walls. 
 
 Finally, seeing him quite quiet, I despatched some fellows 
 for a net, and opening the door quickly, threw this over his 
 head. Fortunately we succeeded at the fiist throw in fatally 
 entangling the young monster, who roared frightfully, and 
 struck and kicked in every direction under the net. I took 
 hold of the back of his neck, two men seized his arms and 
 another bis legs, and thus held by four men this extraordi- 
 nary little creature still proved most troublesome. We 
 carried him as quickly as we could to the cage, which had 
 been repaired, and there once more locked him in. 
 
 I never saw so furious a beast in my life as he was. He 
 darted at everyone who came near, bit the bamboos of the 
 house, glared at us with vicious and sullen eyes, and 
 in every motion showed a temper thoroughly wicked and 
 malicious. 
 
 As there was no change in this for two days thereafter, 
 but continual moroseness, I tried what starvation would do 
 towards breaking his spirit ; also, it began to be troublesome 
 to procure bis food from the woods, and I wanted bira to be- 
 come accustomed to the civilized food which was placed before 
 him. But he would touch nothing of the kind ; and as for 
 temper, after starving him twenty-four hours, all I gained 
 
156 EQUATORIAL AFIilCA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 was that he came slowly up and took some berries from the 
 forest out of my hand, immediately retreating to his corner 
 to eat them. 
 
 Daily attentions from me for a fortnight more did not 
 bring me any further confidence from him than this. He 
 always snarled at me, and only when very hungry would 
 he take even his choicest food from my hands. At the end 
 of this fortnight I came one day to feed him, and found that 
 he had gnawed a bamboo to pieces slily and again made his 
 escape. Luckily, he had but just gone ; for, as I looked 
 around, I caught sight of Master Joe making off on all fours, 
 and with great speed, across the little prairie for a clump of 
 trees. 
 
 I called the men up, and we gave chase. He saw us, and 
 before we could head him off made for another clump. This 
 we surrounded. He did not ascend a tree, but stood defiantly 
 at the border of the wood. About one hundred and fifty of 
 us surrounded him. As we moved up he began to yell, and 
 made a sudden dash upon a poor fellow who was in advance, 
 who ran, tumbled down in aifright, and, by his fall, escaped, 
 but also detained Joe sufficiently long for the nets to be 
 brought to bear upon him. 
 
 Four of us again bore him struggling into the village. 
 This time I would not trust him to the cage, but had a little 
 light chain fastened around his neck. This operation he re- 
 sisted with all his might, and it took us quite an hour to 
 chain securely the little fellow, whose strength was some- 
 thing marvellous. 
 
 Ten days after he was thus chained, he died suddenly. He 
 was in good health, and ate plentifully of his natural food, 
 which was brought every day for him ; he did not seem to 
 sicken until two days before his death, and died in some 
 pain. To the last he continued utterly untameable ; and, 
 after his chains were on, added treachery to his other vices. 
 He would come sometimes quite readily to eat out of my 
 hand, but while I stood by him would suddenly — looking me 
 all the time in the face to keep my attention — put out his 
 foot and grasp at my leg. Several times he tore my panta- 
 loons in this manner, quick retreat on my part saving my 
 
Chap. XIV. LIVE GORILLAS. 157 
 
 person ; till at last I was obliged to be very careful in my 
 appruaches. TLo negroes could not come near him at all 
 without setting him in a rage. He knew me very well, and 
 trusted me, but evidently always cherished a feeling of 
 revenge even towards me. 
 
 After he was chained, I filled a half-barrel with hay and 
 set it near him for his bed. He recognized its use at once, 
 and it was pretty to see him shake up the hay and creep into 
 this nest when ho was tired. At night he always again shook 
 it ujJ, and then took some hay in his hands, with which he 
 would cover himself when he was snug in his barrel. 
 
 I subsequently embarked another live gorilla for Europe, 
 and hoped that he would arrive safely and gratify the world 
 of London with a sight of this rare and wondei'ful ape in the 
 living state ; unfortunately, he died on the passage. He did 
 very well for a few weeks, I am told, as long as the supply of 
 bananas lasted which I placed on board for his sustenance. 
 The repugnance of the gorilla to cooked food, or any sort of 
 food except the fruits and juicy plants he obtains in his own 
 wilds, will always be a difficulty in the way of bringing him 
 to Europe alive. I had sent him consigned to Messrs. Baring, 
 who, I am sure, never had any such consignment before. I 
 promised the captain that he should receive one hundred 
 pounds if he succeeded in taking the animal alive to London. 
 
 During the few days he was in my possession he remained, 
 like all the others of his species that I had seen, utterly un- 
 tractable. The food that was offered to him he would come 
 and snatch from the hand, and then bolt with it to the length 
 of his tether. If I looked at him he would make a feint of 
 dartin"- at me, and in giving him water I had to push the 
 bowl towards him with a stick, for fear of his biting me. 
 When he was angry I saw him often beat the ground and his 
 leo-s with his fists, thus showing a similar habit to that of the 
 adult gorillas which I described as healing their breasts with 
 their fists when confronting an enemy. Before lying down 
 to rest, he used to pack his straw very carefully as a bed to 
 lie on. He used to wake me in the night by screaming 
 suddenly, and in the morning I more than once detected him 
 in the attempt to strangle himself with his chain, no doubt 
 12 
 
158 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Ch4P. XIV. 
 
 tkrougli rage at being kept prisoner. lie used to twist tlie 
 chain round and round the post to which it was attached 
 until it became quite short, and then pressed with his feet 
 the lower part of the post until he had nearly done the 
 business. 
 
 One lovely morning, when going quietly along the borders 
 of a large plantation, I heard, in the grove of plantain-trees 
 towards which I was walking, a great crashing noise, like 
 the breaking of trees. I immediately hid myself behind a 
 bush, and was soon gratified with the sight of a female 
 gorilla ; but before I had time to notice its movements, a 
 second and a third emerged from the masses of colossal 
 foliage ; at length no less than four came into view. 
 
 They were all busily engaged in tearing down the larger 
 trees. One of the females had a young one following her. I 
 had an excellent opportunity of watching the movements of 
 the impish-looking band. The shaggy hides, the protuberant 
 abdomens, the hideous features of these strange creatures, 
 whose forms so nearly resemble man, made up a picture like 
 a vision in some morbid dream. In destroying a tree, they 
 first grasped the base of the stem with one of their feet and 
 then with their powerful arms pulled it down, a matter of 
 not much difficulty with so loosely-formed a stem as that of 
 the plantain. They then set upon the juicy heart of the tree 
 at the bases of the leaves, and devoured it with great vora- 
 city. While eating they made a kind of clucking noise, 
 expressive of contentment. Many trees they destroyed. 
 Now and then they stood still and looked around. Once or 
 twice they seemed on the point of starting off in alarm, but 
 recovered themselves and continued their work. Gradually 
 they got nearer to the edge of the dark forest, and finally dis- 
 appeared. I was so intent on watching them, that I let go 
 the last chance of shooting one almost before I became aware 
 of it. 
 
 The next day I had no expectation of seeing gorillas in 
 the same plantation, and was carrying a light shot gun, 
 having given my heavy doable-barrelled rifle to the boy to 
 carry. The plantation extended over two hills, with a deep 
 hollow between, planted with sugar-cane. Before I had 
 
Chap. XIV. CAPTIVE GOltlLLAS. 159 
 
 crossed the hollow I saw on tlie opposite slope a monstrous 
 gorilla, standing erect and looking directly towards me. 
 Without turning my face I beckoned to the boy to bring me 
 my rifle, but no rifle came — the little coward had bolted, and 
 I lost my chance. The huge beast stared at me for about 
 two minutes, and then, without uttering any cry, moved off 
 to the shade of the forest, running nimbly on his hands and 
 feet. 
 
 I had eioellont opportunity of observing, during these two 
 days, the manner in which the gorillas walked when in open 
 ground. They move along with great rapidity and on all 
 fours, that is, with the knuckles of their hands touching the 
 ground. When the gorillas that I watched left the plantain- 
 trees, they moved oflf at a great pace over the ground, with 
 their arms extended straight forwards towards the ground, 
 and moving rapidly-. I may mention also that having now 
 opened the stomachs of several freshly-killed gorillas I have 
 never found anything but vegetabile matter in them. 
 
 My old friend Akondogo brought me a young living gorilla, 
 the largest I had eVer seen captured alive. Like Joe, this one 
 showed the most violent and ungovernable disposition. He 
 tried to bite every one who came near him, and was obliged 
 to be secured by a forked stick closely applied to the back of 
 his neck. This mode of imprisoning these animals is a very 
 improper one if the object be to keep them alive and to tame 
 them, but, unfortunately, in this barbarous country, we had 
 not the materials requisite to build a strong cage. The 
 injury done to this one by the forked stick eventually caused 
 his death. 
 
 One day one of my men came in with the startling news 
 that three live gorillas had been brought, one of them full 
 grown. 1 had not long to wait ; in they came. First, a very 
 large adult female, bound hand and foot ; then her female 
 child, screaming terribly; and lastly a vigorous young male, 
 also tightly bound. The female had been ingeniously secured 
 by the negroes to a strong stick, the wrists bound to the 
 upper part and the ankles to the lower, so that she could not 
 rench to tear the cords with her teeth. It was dark, and the 
 scene was one so wild and strange that I shall never forget 
 
100 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIV 
 
 it. The fiendish countenances of the Calibanish trio, one of , 
 them distorted by pain, for the mother gorilla was severely 
 wounded, were lit up by the ruddy glare of native torches. 
 
 The young male I secured by a chain which I had in readi- 
 ness, and gave him henceforth the name of Tom. We untied 
 his hands and feet; to show his gratitude for this act of 
 kindness he immediately made a rush at me, screaming with 
 all his might ; happily the chain was made fast, and I took 
 care afterwards to keep out of his way. The old mother 
 gorilla was in an unfortunate plight. She had an arm 
 broken and a wound in the chest, besides being dreadfully 
 beaten on the head. She groaned and roared many times 
 during the night, probably from pain. 
 
 I noticed next day, and on many occasions, that the vigor- 
 ous young male, whenever he made a rush at any one and 
 missed his aim, immediately ran back. This corresponds 
 with what is known of the habits of the large males in their 
 native woods ; when attacked they make a furious rush at 
 their enemy, break an arm or tear his bowels open, and then 
 beat a retreat, leaving their victim to shift for himself. 
 
 The wounded female died in the course of the next day ; 
 her meanings were more frequent in the morning, and they 
 graduallj' became weaker as her life ebbed out. Her death 
 was like that of a human being, and afflicted me more than I 
 could have thought possible. Her child clung to her to the 
 last, and tried to obtain milk from her breast after she was 
 dead. I photographed them both when the young one was 
 resting in its dead" mother's lap. I kept the young one alive 
 for three days after its mother's death. It moaned at night 
 most piteously. I fed it on goat's milk, for it was too young 
 to eat berries. It died the fourth day, having taken an un- 
 conquerable dislike to the milk. It had, I think, begun to 
 know me a little. As to the male, I made at least a dozen 
 attempts to photograph the irascible little demon, but all in 
 vain. The pointing of the camera towards him threw him 
 into a perfect rage, and I was almost provoked to give him a 
 sound thrashing. The day after, however, I succeeded with 
 him, taking two views, not very perfect, but sufficient for 
 my object. 
 
Chap. XIV. HABITS OF THE GORILLA. 161 
 
 The capture of the female was the first instance that had 
 come to my knowledge of an adult gorilla being taken alive. 
 The place where they were found was on the left bank of the 
 Fernand Vaz, about thirty miles above my village. At this 
 part a narrow promontorj^ projects into the river. A woman, 
 belonging to a neighbouring village, had told her people that 
 she had seen two squads of female gorillas, some of them 
 accompanied by their young ones, in her plantain field. The 
 men resolved to go in chase of them, so they armed them- 
 selves with guns, axes, and spears, and sallied forth. The 
 situation was very favourable for the hunters ; they formed 
 a line across the narrow strip of land and pressed forward, 
 driving the animals to the edge of the water. When they 
 came in sight of them, they made all the noise in their power, 
 and thus bewildered the gorillas, who were shot or beaten 
 down in their endeavours to escape. There were eight 
 adult females altogether, but not a single male. The negroes 
 thought the males were in concealment in the adjoining 
 woods, having probably been frightened away by the noise. 
 
 It is clear that, at certain times of the year, the gorillas 
 go in bands more numerous than those I saw in my former 
 journey. I have myself seen two of these bands of gorillas, 
 numbering eight or ten, and have had authentic accounts 
 fiom the natives of other similar bands. It is true that, 
 when gorillas become aged, they seem to be ]nore solitary, 
 and to live in jjairs, or, as in the case of old males, quite alone. 
 I have been assui'ed by the negroes that solitary and aged 
 gorillas are sometimes seen almost white ; the hair becomes 
 grizzled with age, and I have no doubt that the statement of 
 their becoming occasionally white with extreme old age is 
 quite correct. 
 
 Gorillas are attracted to this district by the quantity of a 
 little yellow berry, called mbimo, growing there on a tree 
 resembling the African teak, and by the abundance of two 
 other kinds of fruits, of which they are very fond, and which 
 grow on the sandy soil of this part of the coast-land ; one of 
 these fruits is called nionien, about the size of a nectarine, 
 and of the colour of the peach, but not having the rich bloom 
 of this fruit ; it is produced by a shrub that creeps over the 
 
162 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 sandy soil; the other resembles in size and colour the wild 
 plum, and is a fruit of which I am myself very fond. 
 
 The gorilla is of migratory habits at some seasons of the 
 year. He is then not found in the districts usually resorted 
 to by him when the berries, fruits, and nuts are in season. 
 
 On the 20th of May I went up the river about five miles 
 to shoot hippopotami. There was here a place in the river 
 shallow enough for them to stand in and play around ; and 
 here they remained all day, playing in the deep water, or 
 diving, but for the most part staniling on the shallows, with 
 onlj' their ugly noses pointed out of the water, and looking, 
 for all the world, exactly like so many old weather-beaten 
 logs stranded on a sand-bar. We approached slowly and 
 with caution, to within thirty yards of the herd, without 
 seeming to attract the slightest attention from the sluggish 
 animals. Stopping there, I fired five shots, and, so far as I 
 could see, killed three hippopotami. The ear is one of the 
 most vulnerable spots, and this was my mark every time. 
 The first shot was received with but little attention ; but the 
 struggles of the dying animal, which turned over several 
 times, and finally sank to the bottom, seemed to rouse the 
 herd, who began to plunge about and dive down into the 
 deep water. The blood of my victims discoloured the water 
 all around, and we could not see whether those which escaped 
 were not swimming for us. 
 
 Presently the boat received a violent jar, and, looking 
 overboard, we perceived that we were in the midst of the 
 herd. They did not, however, attack us, but were rather, I 
 imagine, anxious to get away. We, too, pulled out of the 
 way as fast as we could, as I was not anxious to be capsized. 
 Of the dead animals we recovered but one, which was found 
 two days after on a little island near the river's mouth. 
 
 I now determined to go on a night hunt after hippopotami. 
 These animals come ashore by night to feed. As I have said 
 before, the Feruand Vaz runs for many miles parallel with 
 the sea-shore, separated from the sea by a strip of sandy 
 prairie. On this prairie the river-horses feed, and the 
 " walk " of a herd is easily discernible at a great distance, 
 looking very much like a regular beateu road, only their 
 
Chap. XIV. EIFFOPOTAMI. 163 
 
 immense tracks sliowing who are its makers. In the path 
 no grass grows ; but the ground is hard, and solidly beaten 
 down by their constant passage to and fro. It is curious 
 that they will not even leave such a walk if they have been 
 attacked there, but come back without fail. This gives the 
 hunter a great advantage. 
 
 We chose a moonlight night, and paddled up to the vicinity 
 of one of these " walks," where Igala, my hunter, and I set 
 out by ourselves. I had painted my face with a mixture of 
 oil and soot, which is a prudent measure in a white hunter in 
 Africa, where the beasts seem to have a singularly quick eye 
 for anything white. We chose the leeward side of the track, 
 for the hippopotamus has a fine sense of smell, and is easily 
 alarmed at night, feeling, probably, that on land his sluggish 
 movements and huge bulk have their disadvantages. We 
 lay down under shelter of a bush and watched. As yet none 
 of the animals had come out of the water. We could hear 
 them snorting and splashing in the distance, their subdued 
 snort-like roars breaking in upon the still night in a very 
 odd way. The moon was nearly down, and the watch was 
 getting tedious, when I was startled by a sudden groan, and, 
 peering into the half-light, saw dimly a huge animal, looking 
 doubly monstrous in the uncertain light. It was quietly 
 eating grass, which it seemed to nibble off quite close. 
 
 There was another bush between us and our prey, and we 
 crawled up to this in dead silence. Arrived there we were 
 but about eight yards from the great beast. The negroes who 
 hunt the hippopotamus are sometimes killed. The animal, 
 if only wounded, turns most savagely upon its assailant ; and 
 experience has taught the negro hunters that the only safe 
 way to approach it is from behind. It cannot turn quickly, 
 and thus the hunter has a chance to make good his escape. 
 This time we could not get into a very favourable position, 
 but I determined to have my shot nevertheless, eight yards 
 being safe killing distance, even with so poor a light as we 
 had by this time. 
 
 Igala and I both took aim. He fired ; and, without waiting 
 to see the result, ran away ns swiftly as a good pair of legs 
 could carry him. I was not quite ready, but fired the 
 
164 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 moment after him; and, before I could get ready to run— in 
 which I had not Igala's practice — I saw there was no need to 
 do so. The beast tottered for a moment, and then fell over 
 dead. 
 
 This closed our night's sport, as none of the herd would 
 come this way while their companion lay there. So we 
 returned home, poor Igala remonstrating with me for not 
 running as he did, this being, as it appeared, considered one 
 of the chief accomplishments of the hippopotamus-hunter. 
 Our good luck created great joy in the village, where meat 
 was scarce. 
 
 The feet of the hipjDopotamus are curiously constructed, 
 to facilitate their walking among the reeds and mud of the 
 river-bottoms, and swimming with ease. The hoof is divided 
 into four short, apparently olumsj', and unconnected toes; 
 and they are able, by this spread of foot, to walk rapidly 
 even through mud. I have seen them make quick progress, 
 when alarmed, in water so deep that their backs were just 
 on the river-level. 
 
 After watching for a great many times the movements of 
 the hippopotamus, I became assured that the huge crooked 
 tusks, which give its mouth so savage an appearance, are 
 designed chiefly to hook up the long river-grasses on which 
 the animals feed in great part. Often 1 have seen one descend 
 to the bottom, remain a few minutes, and re-appear with its 
 tusks strung with grass, which was then leisurely chewed up. 
 They make the whitest of all ivory, and in the Gamma country 
 the beasts are much hunted for the sake of the tusks, as the 
 dentists of Europe make a demand for this white ivory. ' 
 
 The animals consort together here in flocks of from three 
 to thirty. They choose shallows in the rivers, where the 
 depth of the water allows them to keep their footing, and yet 
 have their whole bodies submerged. Here they remain all 
 day, swimming off into the deeps and diving for their grassy 
 food, gambolling in the waves, and from time to time throw- 
 ing up a stream of water two or three feet high. This is 
 done with a noise like " blowing," and is doubtless an effort 
 for breath. It is pleasant to watch a flock peacefully enjoy- 
 ing themselves, particularly when they have two or three 
 
Chap. XIV. HABITS OF THE HIPFOPOTAMOS. 165 
 
 young among them. The little fellows, who are comically 
 awkward, play about their dams, and I have often seen them 
 seated on the back of the mother, and chasing each other 
 about the shoals. 
 
 They prefer parts of the rivers where the current is not 
 very swift, and are therefore to be found in all the lakes in 
 the interior. Also, they like to be near their grass-fields. 
 They are very fond of a particular coarse grass which grows 
 on these prairies, and will travel considerable distances to 
 hunt this up, always returning, however, before daylight. 
 Their path overland is very direct. Neither rocks, nor swamps, 
 nor bushes can prove formidable obstacles to a water-beast of 
 such bulk ; and one of their peculiarities is that they will 
 always return to the water by the same road they came. 
 Some of their favourite grass was growing on a little plain 
 at the back of my house, and several times I found hippopot- 
 amus-tracks not more than fifty yards from the house. They 
 had not feared to come as near as this; though, probably, if 
 the wind had been from me to them, they would have 
 avoided the place. 
 
 They always choose a convenient landing-place, one 
 where the bank has a long and easy incline, and this they 
 use till they have eaten up all the provender which lies in 
 that vicinity. Before going ashore they watch for an hour, 
 and sometimes for two hours, near the landing, remaining 
 quiet themselves and listening for danger. The slightest 
 token of the hunter's presence on such occasions sends them 
 away for that night. If no danger appears, they begin to 
 wander ashore in twos and threes. I never saw more than 
 three of a herd grazing together; and during, their stay 
 ashore they place more dependence on their ears than on 
 their eyes. I have watched closely in many hunts, and am 
 convinced that the beast walks along with his eyes nearly 
 shut. This makes the approach easier, -though their hearing 
 is very quick ; and it is common to get within three or four 
 yards before firing. I generally tried to get at least as near 
 as four yards, and found my most successful aim to be at a 
 spot near the shoulder, and one just behind the ear. 
 
 When playing in the water this animal makes a noise very 
 
166 EQUATOniAL AFUICA. Chap. XIV. 
 
 much resembling the grunt of a pig. This grunt it also 
 utters when alarmed at the near approach of man. The 
 stuffed skin loses its original colour, so that our stuffed speci- 
 mens do not give a true idea of the clay-colour of the live 
 beast. Its excrement is like the horse's, but smaller and 
 dryer. 
 
 When enraged, or suddenly disturbed, it utters a kind of 
 groan, a hoarse sound, which can be heard at a considerable 
 distance. They are very combative among themselves, and 
 I often saw marks on their bodies of desperate conflicts. One, 
 a male, which I killed, had its thick hide lacerated in a 
 frightful manner in numerous strip)es, from a fight. The 
 young males suffer particularly in these encounters, as they 
 are much imposed upon by the grown males, who are jealous 
 of them. Their principal weapons of oifence are their huge 
 tusks, with which they strike most savage blows. 
 
 I once witnessed a combat between two hippopotami. It 
 occurred in broad daylight. I was concealed on the bank of 
 the stream, and had been for some time watching the sports 
 of a herd, when suddenly two huge beasts rose to the surface 
 of the water and rushed together. Their vast and hideous 
 mouths were opened to their widest possible extent ; their 
 eyes were flaming with rage, and every j)ower was put forth 
 by each to annihilate the other. They seized each other with 
 their jaws ; they stabbed and punched with their strong 
 tusks ; they advanced and retreated ; were now at the top of 
 the water, and again sank down to the bottom. Their blood 
 discoloured the river, and (heir groans of rage were hideous 
 to listen to. They showed little powers of strategy, but 
 rather a p)iggish obstinacy in maintaining their ground, and 
 a frightful savageness of demeanour. The combat lasted an 
 hour. It was evident that their tusks could not give very 
 dangerous wounds to such thickly-protected bodies as theirs. 
 At last one turned about and made off, leaving the other 
 victorious and master of the field. 
 
CIIAPTEE XV. 
 
 Ascent of the Ogobai — The Aucugue lake — King Damagondai — Dama- 
 gondai lecturing his wives — King Shimbouvenegani — Shelters of the 
 Nshiego Mbonve— Killing a Nsliiego Mbouve' ; its ajipearance — 
 Hunting the crocodile— Damagoudai's idol — Troubles during the 
 descent down the river. 
 
 After poor Joe Gorilla died I jsrepared to set out upon my 
 explorations up river. 
 
 We were to make a start on the evening of May 27th, and 
 on that morning I called king and people together, and gave 
 them charge of my property. 
 
 I next counted my ten goats in their presence, and told 
 them I wanted no leopard-stories told me when I came hack 
 . — at which they shoiited and laughed, and declared neither 
 they nor the leoi:)ard should touch them. 
 
 I had twelve stout i^addlers in my canoe. 
 
 We found the Npoulounay for the first eight miles to run 
 through the mangrove-swamps, which render navigation so 
 disagreeable. Above that the banks became higher and 
 clearer. 
 
 About sixty miles from Biagauo we came to a fork in the 
 river. We took the right branch. A few miles further up 
 there was another tributary, which we entered, as this led 
 to the lake. The stream was here about two hundred yards 
 wide, but with very low, marshy banks, and no wood. Im- 
 mense fields of reeds and other water-weeds covered the 
 marshy soil as far as we could see from our little canoe, and 
 gave the landscape an aspect of utter desolation. The stream 
 had scarce any current, the water was turbid, and the smell 
 of decaying vegetation exceedingly unpleasant. In the far 
 distance beyond the plains we could see the outlines of hills 
 and higher plains. Where these join the marsh, crocodiles 
 are found in great plenty, as I was told now by the natives, 
 and found for myself afterwards. 
 
 While I was wondering at the change in this sluggish 
 liver from the rapid-flowing Ogobai, we came suddenly to 
 what seemed the end of navigation in this direction. The 
 
168 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. XV. 
 
 river was here as wide as at the mouth, but closed suddenly'. 
 Paddling round the shore, to try for some possible outlet, for 
 it would be too bad to have taken so much trouble to get into 
 this nasty cul-de-sac, we found at length a stream, not more 
 than six yards wide, which poured with a tolerably rapid 
 current into what seemed to me now only a lagoon. Up this 
 narrow avenue we pushed, much doubting where it would 
 lead us, for none of my men had been here before, and I was 
 going by guess-work. 
 
 As we ascended the narrow, deep little stream, it branched 
 oif in several places, and became gradually narrower, till at 
 last we were pushing our canoe laboriously along through a 
 deep, crooked ditch, not more than two yards wide, and 
 overhung with tall reeds, on which great numbers of birds 
 were balancing themselves, as though enjoying our dilemma. 
 
 For two hours we pushed along in this way, and I was 
 upon the point of giving up and returning, when we suddenly 
 emerged into the long-looked-for lake of Anengue. A body 
 of water, at least ten miles wide, and dotted with various 
 beautiful wooded isles, was spread suddenly before our glad- 
 dened eyes. On one side the lake is bounded by hills which 
 come close down to the shore. On the other the hills recede, 
 and between them and the water lies a dreary extent of low 
 maish. Several villages were in sight, all located at the 
 summit of hills, and towards one of these we pushed with 
 what speed we could, for all hands were tired and hungry. 
 
 There are very few villages between Biagauo and the 
 Anengue — we counted but seven ; and yet the countrj"- seems 
 habitable enough. I was struck with the immense height of 
 some of the palm-trees which lined the banks. They were 
 really giants even in these primitive woods. 
 
 From the 1st to the 10th of June I spent in exploring the 
 lake and its islands. I find everywhere deep water enough 
 for steamers of moderate draught to have free play. The 
 whole country around is literally filled with the india-rubber 
 vine. 
 
 Game is not very abundant in this part of the countrj', 
 and the animal most hunted is the porcupine. They hunt 
 with dogs, which track the truculent little beast to its lair 
 
Chap. XV. CROCODILE SHOOTING. 169 
 
 or burrow, whence it is dug out by Ibe men. The dogs 
 hunted by scent, and never barked at a deserted hole. 
 
 Here it burrows among the huge boulders which cover the 
 ground. I noticed that the dogs were very careful not to 
 touch the animal till they were sure it \\'as dead, having 
 probably had sad experience of its sharp spines. 
 
 It is as well to add here that, though most of the West 
 African villages have crowds of dogs, I could never learn of 
 a case of hydrophobia, nor did the natives even know of such 
 a disease as madness in doss. 
 
 o 
 
 Later in the season, when I came again, the appearance of 
 the lake had changed. Now the surface of the Anengue was 
 dotted with numberless black mud-banks, on which swarmed 
 incredible numbers of crocodiles. We actually saw many 
 hundreds of these disgusting monsters sunning themselves 
 on the black mud and slipping off into the water to feed. 
 I never saw so horrible a sight. Many were at least twenty 
 feet long ; and, when they opened their frightful mouths, 
 looked capable of swallowing our little canoes without 
 trouble. 
 
 I determined to have a shot at these beasts, who seemed 
 noways frightened at our approach. Making my men paddle 
 pretty well in, I singled out the biggest of a herd, and 
 lodged a ball in his body by way of the joints of his forelegs, 
 where the thick armour is defective. He tumbled over, and, 
 after struggling in the water for a moment, sank into the 
 mud. His companions turned their hideous snaky eyes 
 down at him in momentary surprise, but did not know what 
 to make of it, and dropped back to their sluggish comfort. 
 I shot another, but he sank also ; and as my men did not like 
 to venture in the black mud after them, we got neither. 
 
 Paddling carefully past great numbers of crocodiles, into 
 whose ready jaws I was by no means anxious to fall, and past 
 several native villages, we at last reached the town of mj' old 
 friend Damagondai, who stood upon the shore ready to receive 
 me. He was dressed in the usual middle-cloth of the natives, 
 and a tarnished scarlet soldier-coat, but was innocent of 
 trousers. But his welcome was none the less hearty, though 
 the unmentionables were lacking. 
 
Chai-. XV. DAMAGONDAI. 171 
 
 A great crowd was assemLled, visit(jrs not being frequent 
 here; and when the presence of a wonderful white man 
 hecaine inown, the anxiety of the people to see me knew no 
 bounds. Quarters were provided for mo bj' the king, who 
 was rejoiced to see me, and sent me a goat ; which, in this 
 part of the country, where they have no tame cattle, is as 
 much as half-a-dozen bullocks would be in South Africa. 
 
 His village, which contains about fifty huts, lies on some 
 high ground at a little distance from tlie water ; and the 
 people came to meet us on the shady walk which connects 
 them with the lake. Everybody seemed glad to see us. I 
 distributed presents of tobacco, gave the king some cloth, 
 and put him in a good humour, though he could scarce forgive 
 me for not bringing him rum also. I noticed in the middle 
 of the village a strongly-built goat-house, which is a sign 
 that leopards sometimes come this way. 
 
 Damagondai put all his village at my disposal, and sug- 
 gested that I had better pick out two or three of the best- 
 looking girls for wives for myself. He was somewhat amazed 
 when I declined this pleasant oft'er, and insisted upon it that 
 my bachelor life must be very lonely and disagreeable. 
 
 The king is a tall, rather slim negro, over six feet high, 
 and well put together, as most of these men are. I suppose 
 in war or in the chase he had the usual amount of courage, 
 but at home he was exceedingly sujjerstitious. As night 
 came on he seemed to get a dread of death. He grew 
 querulous; told the men to stop their noise; and at last 
 began to groan out that some of the people wanted to bewitch 
 him in order to get his property and his authority. Finally 
 he got excited, and began to curse all witches and sorcerers ; 
 said no one should have his wives and slaves. 
 
 The old fellow began to lecture his wives, telling them to 
 love him and to feed him well, for he had given a great deal 
 of money and goods to their pareiits for them, and they were 
 a constant expense and uneasiness to him ; to all which the 
 poor women listened with groat lespect ; and no doubt made 
 up their grateful hearts to give their lord and master a good 
 breakfast next morning. 
 
 At last this dreariest of African nighls got too slow for 
 
172 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XV. 
 
 the people, who suddenly struck up a dance and forgot all 
 about witchcraft. And I, too, was tired, and went to my 
 dreams. 
 
 The Anengue people, though they intermarry with their 
 neighbours the Commi, are not permitted to come down to 
 the sea-shore for trade. This would disturb the monopoly, 
 and monopoly is the most sacred thing in West Africa. The 
 consequence is that they have no energy or life among them. 
 
 On the 5th, the day after our arrival, Damagondai took me 
 across the lake to the village of one Shimbouvenegani, a king 
 with a big name and a small village, who lives fifteen miles 
 off, at the eastern end of the lake. 
 
 We found the king with the long name not at his village, 
 but at his olako, a place temporarily erected in the woods 
 when the people of a village want to hunt, or fish, or pursue 
 agriculture. They had chosen a charming spot in the woods 
 just upon the shores of the lake, which hej'e had high, abrupt 
 banks, and looked more like a pleasant river than a lagoon. 
 Their mosquito-nets were hung up under the trees, and every 
 family had a fire built, and from the pots came the fragrant 
 smell of plantains and fish cooking. We were seated at a 
 rude table, and presently Shimbouvenegani came up, rejoiced 
 to see me. The usual ceremony of introduction was gone 
 through, Damagondai relating that he had brought his white 
 man over here because game was plenty, and to do a favour 
 to his friend the king. 
 
 The latter was a meagre negro of between sixty and seventy 
 years old, dressed in a very dirty swallow-tailed coat, and in 
 what had been — so I imagined — some thirty or forty years 
 ago a silk or beaver hat. 
 
 The people gathered about to examine my hair— that con- 
 stant marvel to the interior negroes ; and presently some 
 large pots of palm-wine were brought, whereupon all hands 
 proceeded to celebrate my arrival among them. I added 
 some tobacco, and then their happiness was complete. 
 
 Meantime Damagondai -had presented me to his eldest son, 
 Okabi, who lived in this village. It is curious that in this 
 country the eldest son of a chief always lives abroad. Okabi 
 hurried off to contrive a little shelter of tree-branches for my 
 
Chap. XV. NSHIEGO MBOVVE. 173 
 
 nse, put up a table for mo, and arranged liis alcoko or bed for 
 my sleeping; then gave me in charge to his two wives, who 
 were to take care of me. 
 
 The next morning Shimbonvenegani sent me some plantains 
 and a quantity of sugar-cane by the hands of a young black 
 woman, who also brought a message that she was to be my 
 wife. I had to decline the matrimonial proposal, which 
 seemed to grieve the black nymph, while her royal master 
 was merely surprised, but evidently thought that it was 
 right I should do as I pleased. 
 
 This day we went out on a hunt — one of those hunts which 
 are marked with the brightest of red ink in my calendar. 
 On this day I discovered a new and very curious ape. 
 
 As I was trudging along, rather tired of the sport, I 
 happened to look up at a high tree which we were passing, 
 and saw a most singular-looking shelter built in its branches. 
 I asked Okabi whether the hunters here had this habit of 
 sleeping in the woods, but was told, to my surprise, that this 
 very ingenious nest was built by the Nsliiego Mbouve, an ape, 
 as I found afterwards, which I put in the genus Troglodytes, 
 and called Troglodytes calvus ; an animal wliich had no hair 
 on its head. 
 
 I saw at once that I was on the trail of an animal till now 
 unknown to the civilized world. A naturalist will appreciate 
 the joy which filled me at this good fortune. I no longer felt 
 tired, but pushed on with renewed ardour and with increased 
 caution, determined not to rest till I had killed this nest- 
 building ape. One such discovery pays the weary naturalist- 
 hunter for many months of toil and hardship. I felt already 
 rewarded for all the inconveniences and expenses of my 
 C'ommi trip. 
 
 I saw many of these nests after this, and may as well say 
 here that they are generally built about fifteen or twenty 
 feet from the ground, and invariably on a tree which stands 
 a little apart from others, and which has no limbs below the 
 one on which the nest is placed. I have seen them at the 
 height of fifty feet, but very seldom. This choice is probably 
 made that they may be safe at night from beasts, serpents, 
 and falling limbs. They build only in the loneliest parts of 
 13 
 
174 EQUATORIAL AFSICA. Chap. XV. 
 
 the forest, and are very shy, and Keldom seen even by the 
 negroes. 
 
 Okabi, who was an old and intelligent hunter, was able to 
 tell me that the male and female together gather the material 
 for their nests. This material consists of loafy branches with 
 which to make the roof, and vines to tie these branches to the 
 tree. The tying is done so neatly, and the roof is so well 
 constructed, that until I saw the nshiego actually occupying 
 his habitation, I could scarce persuade myself that human 
 hands had not built it. It throws off rain perfectly, being 
 neatly rounded at the top for this purpose. The material 
 being collected, the male goes up and builds the nest, while 
 the female brings him the branches and vines. The male and 
 female do not occujiy the same tree, but have nests not far apart. 
 
 From all I have observed, I judge that the nshiego is not 
 gregarious. The nests are never found in companies ; and I 
 have seen even quite solitary nests occupied by very old 
 nshiogos-mbouve, whose silvery hair and worn teeth attested 
 their great age. These seemed hermits who had retired from 
 the nshiego world. 
 
 They live on wild berries, and build their houses where 
 they find these. When they have consumed all that a par- 
 ticular spot affords, they remove and build new houses, so 
 that a nest is not inhabited for more than eight or ten days. 
 
 We travelled with great caution, not to alarm our prey, 
 and had a hope that, singling out a shelter and waiting till 
 dark, we should find it occupied. In this hope we were not 
 disappointed. Lying quite still in our concealment (which 
 tried my patience sorely), we at last, just at dusk, heard the 
 loud peculiar " Hew ! Hew ! Hew ! " which is the call of the 
 male to his mate. We waited till it was quite dark, and then 
 I saw what I had so longed all the weary afternoon to see. 
 A nshiego was sitting in his nest. His feet rested on the 
 lower branch ; his head reached quite into the little dome of 
 a roof, and his arm was clasped firmly about the troe-tmnk. 
 This is their way of sleeping. 
 
 After gazing till I was tired through the gloom at my poor 
 sleeping victim, two of us fired, and the unfortunate beast 
 fell at our feet without a struggle or even a groan. 
 
Char XV. 
 
 mmmo mbouve. 
 
 175 
 
 We Luilt a fire at once, and made our camp in this place, 
 that when daylight came I might first of all examine and 
 skin my prize. The poor ape was hung vip, to be out of the 
 way of the bashikouay and other insects, and I fell asleep on 
 my bed of leaves and grass, as pleased a man as the world 
 could well hold.* 
 
 NsmEGO MBOUVE (yotjnq). 
 
 Next morning I had leisure to examine the nshiego. I 
 was at once struck with the points of difference between it 
 and the chimpanzee. It was somewhat smaller than the 
 chimpanzee I had killed ; blit its great distinction was its 
 bald head. This is its mark. This specimen was 3 feet 
 11 inches high or long. It was an adult. Its skin, where 
 there is no hair, is black, in its natural state. The throat, 
 
 * For description of the animal, see ' Proceedings of tlie Boston Society 
 of Natural History,' June, 1860. 
 
176 EQVATOETAL AFRICA. Chap. XV. 
 
 "breast, and abdomen are covered witii short and rather thin 
 blackish hair. On the lower part of the abdomen the hair is 
 thinnest ; but this is not perceived unless looked at carefully, 
 as the skin is the colour of the hair. On the legs the hair is 
 of a dirty gray mixed with black. 
 
 The shoulders and back have black hair between two and 
 three inches long, mixed with a little gray. The arms, down 
 to the wrist, have also long black hair, but shorter than in the 
 gorilla. The hair is much thinner, in general, than on the 
 gorilla, and the skin is not so tough. I noticed that the bare 
 places, where the hair is worn off by contact with hard sub- 
 stances in sleeping, were different from the bare places which 
 are so conspicuous on the chimpanzee. 
 
 There is a yet greater difference between this animal and 
 the gorilla. It is not nearly so powerful as that monster. 
 Its chest is of far less capacity ; its muscular development is 
 not on the same prodigious scale ; its arm is a little longer ; 
 and the fingers of the gorilla are not only shorter, but also 
 much more powerful than those of the nshiego mbouve. 
 There is also a similar difference in the fingers of the feet. 
 The largest nshiego I shot measured a few inches over four 
 feet in height, and its spread of arms was almost seven feet. 
 
 The hair of the nshiego is blacker, longer, and glossier 
 than that of the gorilla. The latter has his head covered 
 with hair, while the former is bald, both male and female. 
 The nose of the nshiego is not so prominent as the gorilla's ; 
 the mouth is wider ; the ears are much larger ; the chin is 
 rounder than that of the gorilla, and has some thin, short 
 hairs on it. The posteriors of the nshiego are bare, and there 
 the skin is white. The eyebrows of the nshiego are of thin 
 black hair, but long. The side of the face is thinly covered 
 with hair, commencing about the middle of the ear. 
 
 I sent my prize into the olako, and on our way back we 
 had the good luck to kill another. This was a very old 
 animal, with venerable aspect, silvery hair, and decayed 
 teeth. It measured 4 feet 4 inches. Its weight was so con- 
 siderable that, to carry it, we had to take out its intestines. 
 I found in the stomach only some leaves. On my return to 
 the olako I stuffed my two prizes, ready to send home. 
 
Chap, XV. CEOCODILE SHOOTING. 177 
 
 On the 9tli we had a great croondile-hunt. The people 
 were very glad, as they seem extravagantly fond of the 
 meat. They kill more or less every day at this villnge, 
 and so at the others ; but the negroes are so lazy that they 
 were glad to let me go and save them the trouble. The 
 crocodile has not much meat on him, so that, though some 
 were killed every day, the village was never sufficiently 
 supplied. 
 
 We went in canoes. These canoes are of a very singular 
 construction ; quite flat-bottomed, very light draught, about 
 fifty feet long, and not more than two broad. They are 
 ticklish craft. The oarsmen stand up and use paddles seven 
 feet long, with which they can propel one of these boats at a 
 very good rate. The canoes are, of course, easily capsized — 
 the gunwale being but a few inches above the water ; but 
 they do not often tip over. What surjirised me most was the 
 way the negro paddlers stood up at their work all day without 
 tiring. 
 
 The negroes hunt the crocodile both with guns and a kind 
 of harpoon. They have very poor guns, and powder is a 
 scarce article with them ; so the harpoon is most used. The 
 vulnerable part of the animal is near the joints of his forelegs, 
 and there they endeavour to wound it. Though so many are 
 killed, they do not decrease in numbers, nor, strange enough, 
 do they seem to grow more wary. As we started out we saw 
 them swimming about in all directions, and lying on the 
 mudbanks sunning themselves. They took no notice of our 
 boat at all. As we were to shoot, we were obliged to look 
 for our prizes on the shore, for, if killed in the water, they 
 sink and are lost. Presently we saw an immense fellow 
 extended on the bank among some reeds. We approached 
 cautiously; I took good aim, and knocked him over. He 
 struggled hard to get to the water, but he bad been hit too 
 surely. His strength gave out ere he could reach it, and 
 with a few final kicks he was dead. We got one more, and 
 then they brought another canoe, and capsizing it along the 
 shore, rolled the dead monsters in and paddled off for the 
 village. One measured eighteen and the other twenty feet 
 in length. I never saw more savage-looking jaws. They 
 
* ' 
 
 
Chap. XV. OGATA. 179 
 
 were armed with most formidable rows of teeth, and looked 
 really as though a man would be a mere bite for them. 
 
 During the heat of the day these animals retire to the reeds, 
 where they lie sheltered. In the morning and late afternoon 
 they come forth to seek their prey. They swim with great 
 silence, making scarce even a ripple on the water, and make 
 pretty good progress. The motion of the paws in swim- 
 ming is like that of a dog, over and over. They can stand 
 quite still on top of the water, when thej' may be seen 
 looking about them with their dull, wicked eyes. They 
 sleep in the reeds, not for long in the same place. Their 
 eggs they lay in the sand on the islands in the lake, covering 
 them over with a laj'er of sand. The great abundance of 
 fish in the lake makes them increase as fast as they do. The 
 negroes seemed lather indifferent to their presence, and cer- 
 tainly did not view them with the loathing and horror they 
 inspired in me. 
 
 On tlie 11th I went on a hunt. Coming home, I found 
 near the water the hole or burrow of an ogata. This is a 
 species of alligator which lives near pools, and makes a long 
 hole in the ground with two entrances, in which it sleeps 
 and watches for prey. The ogata is a night-roving animal, 
 and solitary in its habits. It scrapes this hole with its paws 
 with considerable labour. It lives near a pool, for the double 
 reason, I imagine, that it may bathe, and because thither 
 come bock, for which it lies in wait in its hole. The negroes 
 tell me that the ogata rushes out with great speed upon any 
 wandering animal, and drags it into the hole to eat it. When 
 they discover one of these holes they come with their guns — 
 which are generally loaded with iron spikes — and watch at 
 one end, while a fire is built at the other entrance. When it 
 becomes too hot, the ogata rushes out and is shot. I killed 
 one, which proved to be seven feet long. It had great 
 strength in its jaws, and very formidable teeth. 
 
 As we were paddling along, on our return to Damagondai's 
 town, I perceived in the distance ahead a beautiful gazelle, 
 looking meditatively into the waters of the lagoon, of which 
 from time to time it took a drink. I stood up to get a shot, 
 and we approached with the utmost silence. But just as I 
 
180 EQUATUltlAL AFRICA. Chap. XV. 
 
 raised my gun to fire, a crocodile leaped out of the water, 
 and, like a flash, dived back again with the struggling 
 animal in its powerful jaws. So quickly did the beast take 
 his piey that, though I fired at him, I was too late. I do 
 not think my bullet hit him. I would not have believed that 
 this huge and unwieldy animal could move with such velocity ; 
 but the natives told me that the deer often falls prey to the 
 crocodile. 
 
 On the 14th I gave Shimbouvenegani two pieces of cotton 
 cloth, some tobacco, and beads, and returned to Damagondai's 
 town. Here I found a canoe' from King Eanpano, who had 
 sent to inform me that a vessel was on the coast by which I 
 could send things to America if I wished. I determined to 
 go down immediately and send some specimens off. 
 
 The people of the Ogobay and the Auengue are of the 
 same tribe with the sea-shore Commi. They intermarry ; their 
 customs and superstitions are the same ; their palavers are the 
 same ; and, though they are more peaceable, they have the 
 will to be just as great rascals. The country behind the 
 river-swamps is very rich in all manner of tropical products, 
 and ebony is found in the hills ; but to transport heavy 
 substances twenty miles to the river or lake-shore, in a 
 country where there are no roads, is too much trouble for 
 these lazy fellows — for which reason very little is cut. The 
 copal-tree ia also found, as well as the india-rubber vine. 
 They raise sugar-cane in great quantities, yams, ground-nuts, 
 plantains, manioc, and sweet potatoes. The chief commercial 
 produce of the country at present is ivory, of which a small 
 quantity is brought down every year. 
 
 In Damagondai's town I was so fortunate as to become 
 possessed of one of their idols or mhuitis. It is a mistake to 
 suppose that these natives worship their greegrees and fetiches. 
 Wherever I have been I have found the headman or chief 
 of each family in possession of an idol, which was worshipped 
 by that family. This whole matter is kept so secret that, 
 unless the traveller paj'S particular attention, he may live in 
 a village for weeks, and not know of this idol's existence. 
 
 Damagondai's idol was a female figure, with copper eyes 
 and a tongue made of a sharp sword -shaped piece of iron. This 
 
A FEMALE IDOL. 
 
 181 
 
 
 11 
 
 explained lier chief attributes ; she cuts to 
 pieces those with whom she is displeased. 
 She was dressed in a Sheldani cloth, cover- 
 ing her from the neck down. She is said 
 to speak, to walk, to foretell events, and to 
 take vengeance on her enemies. Her house 
 is tlie most prominent one in the whole 
 village. She comes to the people by night, 
 and tells them in their sleep what is going 
 to happen. In this way, they asserted, my 
 coming had been foretold. They worship 
 her by dancing around her, and singing 
 her praises and their requests. Sometimes 
 a single man or woman comes to prefer a 
 request; and once I saw the whole village 
 engaged in this rite. They offer her sugar- 
 cane and other food, which they believe 
 she eats. 
 
 I tried to buy this goddess, but, ugly as 
 she is, Damagondai said no money would 
 puichuse her. But he insinuated that for 
 a proper price I could have the goddess of 
 the slaves. These poor fellows were absent 
 on the plantations, and after council with 
 his chief men, the king determined to tell 
 them that he had seen their nibuiti walk off 
 into the woods. I packed her up and took 
 her ofi' with me, and now give her portrait. 
 
 In the afternoon news came that Oshoria, 
 the king of a town situated at the junc- 
 tion of the Anengue and Ogobai rivers, 
 intended to stop me on my way down 
 and exact tribute for my passage. Poor 
 King Damagondai was much troubled. He 
 sent his brother down with a present of 
 a plate, a mug, and a brass pan to propitiate 
 him. I was very angry, and detei mined to 
 ])ut down Mr. Oshoria. We cleaned our 
 giiiiS, and I prepared my revolver ; and next 
 
 IDOL, GODDESS OP 
 THE SLAVES. 
 
182 HQDATOniAL AFUWA. Chap. XV. 
 
 morning we set out without waiting for the king's brother's 
 return, greatly to the dismay of these peaceable people. 
 
 When we came in sight of Guaibuiri, Oshoria's village, I 
 saw that some of my fellows began to show the white feather. 
 1 therefore told them I would blow out the brains of the first 
 man who failed to fight to the death, at the same time pointing 
 to my revolver as the intended instrument of death. They 
 have a great respect for this wonderful revolver ; and imme- 
 diately answered me, " We are men." 
 
 So we pulled up to the village. On the shore stood about 
 one hundred and fifty fellows armed with spears and axes, 
 led by ten men who had guns. I went immediately up to 
 them, revolver in one hand and double-barrelled gun in the 
 other. At this piece of bravado they became very civil, and 
 instead of firing at my party received us peaceably. 
 
 Damagondai's brother hurried dov/n to meet me, and 
 announced that there was no palaver. I was then led to 
 where the quarrelsome Oshoria stood, whom I reproached for 
 his conduct, telling him tliat if anybody had been killed the 
 palaver would have been on his head. He said lie had been 
 vexed that I did not stop to see him on my waj' up ; and after 
 making further excuses, added, " Aoue olome ; " which means, 
 " Thou art a man ; " an expression used in several ways, 
 either to designate a smart man, or a rascal, or, in the best 
 sense, a very brave man. I was content to accept it as an 
 intended compliment. 
 
 I was presented with fruits and fowls, and we were pre- 
 sently the best of friends ; and when I brought down a little 
 bird which sat on a very high tree, they all declared I must 
 have a very big shooting-felich, and respected me accordingly ; 
 and to show them I was not afraid of them I spent the night 
 at their village. 
 
 Leaving this place, we got back to Biagano without further 
 trouble. 
 
 My coming back was fortunate, for in a few days after 
 came a high and mighty visitor from far up the Eiver Kembo. 
 King Quenguoza, of whom I had often heard from the Commi 
 men, lives up the Rembo about ninety miles, and is king over 
 a large tribe of people. He was a man whom I had not even 
 
Chap. XV. KING QVENGUEZA. 183 
 
 hoped to see here, and wliose influence and friendship I was 
 Very glad to have. He came down some months before in 
 considerahle state, in three cauoes, with three of his favourite 
 wives, and about one hundred and thirty men. When he saw 
 me he was much astonished, and said he had heard of me for 
 a great hunter, and had expected to see a tall and etout man, 
 and not such a feeble body as mine. He was now convinced, 
 be said, that I must have a brave heart, to hunt as I did. 
 
 Fortunately the king and I could talk together without an 
 interpreter, so that I did not need any Commi to confound 
 my words and misrepresent my wishes. 
 
 The king told me there were plenty of gorilla and nshiegos 
 in his country, and that if I would come I should have liberty 
 and protection to hunt and do what I pleased. I was ready 
 to go immediately, but he said the fall of the rainy season 
 would be the best time, and so I put my visit off. 
 
 I had sent the kind-hearted old fellow ofl' well contented, 
 with his canoes full of presents of iron bars, brass rods, &c. 
 He promised me great sport, and an introduction to some 
 tribes of whom even these Commi knew nothing, and who 
 are, therefore, beyond even their ultima Thule. To do him 
 greater honour, my people fired a salute as he started off, 
 with which he was highly delighted — as an African is sure 
 to be with any noise. 
 
 CHAPTEE XVI. 
 
 The dry season — Migration n{ birds — Serpents — The ceremony of bola ivnga 
 — Theory of the Commi abont disease — Deatli of Isliungui — A great 
 doctor — Exorcising a sorcerer— Fear of witchcraft by the people — 
 Capture of a young gorilla — Death of its mother — Death of the young 
 gorilla — I am poisoned — Punishment and release of the poisoner. 
 
 The dry season was now setting in in earnest. It is curious 
 that most of the birds which were so abundant during the 
 rainy season had by this time taken their leave, and other 
 birds, in immense numbers, flocked in to feed on the fish, 
 which now leave the sea-shore and the bars of the river- 
 mouth, and ascend thi- river to spawn. 
 
184 EQUATORIAL AFIilCA. Chap. XVI. 
 
 The breakers on the shore were now frightful to see. The 
 coast was rendeied inaccessible by them even to the natives, 
 and the surf increased to that degree at the mouth of the 
 river even, that it was difficult to enter with a canoe. 
 Strong breezes prevailed, and though the sky was constantly 
 overcast, no drop of rain fell. The thermometer fell some- 
 times to 6-1:° of Fahrenheit, and I suffered from cold, as did 
 also the poor natives, who make no provision of thick 
 clothing for such weather, though it is the same every year. 
 The grass on the prairies was dried up to powder. The ponds 
 are dried uj) ; only the woods keep their resplendent green. 
 
 At this season the negroes leave their villages and work on 
 their plantations. Biagano was almost deserted ; all hands 
 were on the plantations ; the women harvesting the crop of 
 ground-nuts, one of the staples of this country, and the men 
 building canoes and idling around. Their plantations are 
 necessarily at some distance off, as the sandy prairie is not fit 
 to cultivate, being only, in fact, a deposit of the sea. 
 
 Fish, particularly mullet, were so abundant in the river 
 that sometimes, when I took my evening constitutional in a 
 canoe on the water, enough mullet leaped into the boat to 
 furnish me a breakfast next day. 
 
 Birds flocked in immense numbers on the prairies, whither 
 they came to hatch their young. 
 
 The ugly marabouts, from whose tails our ladies get the 
 splendid feathers for their bonnets, were there in thousands. 
 Pelicans waded on the river- banks all day in prodigious 
 swarms, gulping down the luckless fish which came in their 
 way. I loved to see them swimming about in grave silence, 
 and every nioment grabbing up a poor fish, which, if not 
 hungry, they left in their huge bag, till sometimes three or 
 four pounds of reserve food thus awaited the coming of their 
 apjsetite. 
 
 I found great flocks of the Ibis relitjiosa (the sacred Ibis of 
 the Egyptians), which had arrived over-night, whence I could 
 not tolL 
 
 Ducks of various kinds built their nests in every creek and 
 in every new islet Ihat appeared with the receding waters. 
 Cranes, too, and numerous other waterfowl flocked in, every 
 
Chap. XVI. BIRDS AND REPTILES. 185 
 
 day bringing new birds. All como, by some strange instinct, 
 to feed upon the vast shoals of fisli which literally filled the 
 river. 
 
 On the sea-shore I sometimes caught a bird, the Sula 
 capensis, which had been driven ashore by the treacherous 
 waves to which it had trusted itself, and could not, for some 
 mysterious reason, get away again. 
 
 And finally, every sand-bar is covered with gulls, whose 
 shrill screams are heard from morning till night as they fly 
 about greedily after their finnj' prey. 
 
 Land birds are equally plentiful ; but I have time to enu- 
 merate only one curious species. This is the bee-eater, of 
 which I discovered two new species. The common one is the 
 Meropicus hicolor, with breast of a gorgeous roseate hue, and 
 looks as he flies about like a lump of fire. The bee-eaters feed 
 on bees and flies, and are remarkable for the nests they build. 
 These are holes in the ground, always on the edge of some 
 bank or acclivity, and in these they sleep at night. 
 
 Serpents are not so common as in the rainy season, but do 
 not altogether abandon the country, as I had reason to 
 discover one night. I had retired to rest, but was roused by 
 a tremendous fluttering among my chickens. I rushed out 
 immediately, expecting to catch a thief, but found nobody ; 
 and as the houses were not broken into, returned to my own 
 room, thinking it was only a false alarm. But I was no 
 sooner in than I rushed out again, for, in the dim light, I 
 found myself upon the point of stepping upon a huge black 
 snake. I had my gun in my hand, and lost no time in 
 blowing his head to pieces with cold lead. He was ten feet 
 long, and of a kind whose bite is said by the negroes to be 
 fatal. The hideous beast was just swallowing one of my 
 chickens when I killed it. It had been among the fowls, 
 which accounted for the noise I heard. The negroes rushed 
 in when they heard the report of my gun, and with great joy 
 cut off the head of their enemy. 
 
 Now the river was covered with muddy islands, left dry 
 and covered with reeds ; among which sported the flamingo 
 — a bird not seen here in the wet season. All these reedy 
 islets were submerged when I passed up last May. 
 
)86 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. ' Chap. XV [. 
 
 rrom August 18tli to the 31st I was badly ill with 
 dysentery and sj^mptoms of malignant fever, contracted, 
 probably, in the Anengne marshes. In three days I took 
 one hundred and fifty grains of quinine, and thus happily 
 succeeded in breaking the force of the fever, which was the 
 more dangerous of the two diseases. 
 
 By September 9th I was pretty strong again, and the 
 people came to ask me if I was willing for them to hola ivoga, 
 that is, to make a terrible noise with their ceremonious 
 breaking of the mourning-time. I gave my consent, and 
 next day great numbers of canoes came down to help in this 
 ceremony. When any one of importance dies, the tribe or 
 town cease to wear their best clothes, and make it a jJoint to 
 go unusually dirty. This is to mourn. Mourning lasts from 
 a year to two years. As for the breaking up of mourning, 
 this shall now be described. 
 
 The man who had died left seven wives, several slaves, a 
 house, a plantation, and other property. All this the elder 
 brother inherits, and on him it devolves to give the grand 
 feast. For this feast every canoe that came brought jars of 
 mimho or palm-wine. Sholomba and Jouibuai, the heir, had 
 been out for two weeks fishing, and now returned with several 
 canoe-loads of dry fish. From their plantations quantities of 
 palm-wine were brought in. Everyone in the village fur- 
 bished up his best clothes and ornaments. Drums and kettles 
 were collected ; powder was brought out for the salutes ; and 
 at last all was ready for bola ivoga. 
 
 The wives of the deceased seemed quite jolly, for to-morrow 
 they were to lay aside their widows' robes and to join in the 
 jollification as brides. The heir could have married them all, 
 but he had generously given up two to a younger brother and 
 one to a cousin. 
 
 At seven o'clock in the morning three guns were fired off 
 to announce that the widows had done eating a certain mess> 
 mixed of various ingredients supposed to have magical virtues, 
 and by which they are released from their widowhood. They 
 now put on bracelets and anklets, and the finest calico they 
 had. About nine all the guests sat down on mats spread 
 about the house of deceased and along the main street. They 
 
Chap. XVI. , AN ORGY. 187 
 
 were divided into little groups, and before each was set an 
 immense jar of mimbo. All began to talk pleasantly, till 
 suddenly the Biagano people fired off a volley of about one 
 hundred guns. This was the signal for the drinking to begin. 
 Men, women, and children set to ; and from this time till 
 next morning the orgies were continued without interruption. 
 They drank, they sang, they fired guns, and loaded them so 
 heavily as they got tipsy, that I wonder the old trade-guns 
 did not burst; they drummed on everything that could 
 possibly give out a noise; they shouted; and the women 
 danced— such dances as are not seen elsewhere. They are 
 indecent in their best moments. The reader may imagine 
 what they were when every woman was furiously tipsy, and 
 thought it a point of honour to be more indecent than her 
 neighbour. 
 
 Next day, about sunrise, Jombuai came to ask me to assist 
 at the concluding ceremony. His brother's house was to be 
 torn down and burned. When I came they fired guns, and 
 then, in a moment, hacked the old house to pieces with axes 
 and ctitlasses. When the ruins were burned, the feast was 
 done. And this is to go out of mourning among the Commi. 
 
 Hardly were the rejoicings done, when Ishungui, the man 
 who had faithfully taken care of my house in my absence, 
 lay at death's door. He had gone out on Jombuai's fishing- 
 excursion, caught cold, and had now a lung fever. I knew 
 when I saw him that he must die, and tried to prepare his 
 mind for the change. But his friends by no means gave him 
 up. They sent for a distinguished fetich doctor, and under 
 his auspices began the infernal din with which they seek to 
 cure a sick man. 
 
 The Commi theory of disease is that Abambou (the devil) 
 has got into the sick man. Now this devil is only to be 
 driven out with noise, and accordingly they surround the 
 sick man and beat drums and kettles close to his head ; fire 
 off guns close to his ears ; ting, shout, and dance all they can. 
 This lasts till the poor fellow either dies or is better — unless 
 the operators become tired out first, for the Commi doctors 
 either kill or cure. 
 
 Ishungui died. He left no property, and his brother buried 
 
' 4'" 
 
Chap. XVI. A SOUCEBEU. 189 
 
 him without a coffin in a grave in the sand, so shallow that, 
 wlien I chanced to come upon it some days after, I saw that 
 the wild beasts had been there and eaten the corpse. The 
 mourning lasted but six days ; and as there were no wives or 
 property, so there was no feast. The relatives of the deceased 
 slept one night in his house, as a mark of respect ; and then 
 all that remained was to discover the person who had be- 
 witched the dead man. For that a young man, generally 
 healthy, should die so suddenly in course of nature was by 
 no means to be believed. 
 
 A canoe had been despatched up the lake to bring down a 
 great doctor. They brought one of Damagondai's sons, a 
 great rascal, who had been foremost in selling me the idol, 
 and who was an evident cheat. When all was ready for the 
 trial, I went down to look at the doctor, who looked literally 
 like the devil. I never saw a more ghastly object. He had on 
 a high head-dress of black feathers. His eye-lids were painted 
 red, and a red stripe, from the nose upward, divided his fore- 
 head into two parts. Another red stripe passed round his 
 head. The face was painted white, and on each side of the 
 mouth were two round red spots. About his neck hung a 
 necklace of grass and also a cord, which held a box against 
 his breast. This little box is sacred, and contains spirits. 
 A number of strips of leopard and other skins crossed his 
 breast, and were exposed about his person; and all these 
 were charmed, and had charms attached to them. Prom 
 each shoulder down to his hands was a white stripe, and 
 one hand was painted quite white. To complete this 
 horrible array, he wore a string of little bells around his 
 body. 
 
 He sat on a box or stool, before which stood another box 
 containing charms. On this stood a looking-glass, beside 
 which lay a buffalo-horn containing some black powder, and 
 said in addition to be the refuge of many spirits. He had a 
 little besket of snake-bones, which he shook frequently during 
 his incantations ; as also several skins, to which little bells 
 were attached. Near b}- stood a fellow beating a board with 
 two sticks. All the peojjle of the village gathered about this 
 couple, who, after continuing their incantations for awhile^ 
 14 
 
190 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVI. 
 
 at last came to the climax. Joinbuai was told to call over the 
 names of persons in the village, in order that the doctor 
 might ascertain if any one of those named did the sorcery. 
 As each name was called the old cheat looked in the glass 
 to see the result. 
 
 During the whole operation I stood near him, which 
 seemed to trouble him greatly. At last, after all the names 
 were called, the doctor declared that he could not find any 
 " witch-man," but that an evil spirit dwelt in the village, 
 and many of the people would die if they continued there. 
 I have a suspicion that this final judgment with which the 
 incantations broke up was a piece of revenge upon me. I had 
 no. idea till next day how seriously the words of one of these 
 (ougangd) doctors is taken. 
 
 The next morning all was excitement. The people were 
 scared ; they said their mbuiri was not willing to have them 
 live longer there ; that he would kill them, &c. Then began 
 the removal of all kinds of property and the tearing down of 
 houses; and by nightfall I was actually left alone in my 
 house with my Mpongwe boy and my little Ogobai boy, 
 Makondai, both of whom were anxious to be off. 
 
 Old Kanpano came to beg me not to be offended ; that he 
 dared not stay, but would build his house not too far away ; 
 that the mbuiri was now in town : he advised me as a 
 friend to move also ; but nobody wished me ill — only he 
 must go, &c. 
 
 I did not like to abandon my houses, which had cost me 
 money and trouble, and where I was more comfortably settled 
 than I had ever before been in Africa. So I called a meeting 
 of the people, and tried to induce some of them to come over 
 and live with me. Now, though they loved tobacco, though 
 they worshipped trade, though they had every possible in- 
 ducement to come and live near me, " their white man," as 
 they called me, it was only with the greatest diiBculty I 
 could get some men who had already worked for me to 
 come over and stay in my place. These began immediately 
 to build themselves houses, and by October 8th the little 
 village was built, of which I was now, to my great surprise, 
 offered the sovereignty. I remembered how the new king 
 
Chap. XVI. VISIT TO IRENDE. 191 
 
 was made in the Gaboon ; and thongli it seemed romantic to 
 be the chief of a negro town in Africa, the thought of the 
 contumely which precedes the assumption of royalty de- 
 terred mc. Finally the men determined to have me as the 
 chief next to Eanpaiio, and with this my ambition was 
 satisfied. 
 
 On the 1st of November I went in a canoe, with guns and 
 provisions, up to Irende, a town about forty miles up) the 
 Fernand Vaz. Hereabouts there was likelihood of some good 
 hunts ; so I had been told. In fact, wo killed a number of 
 wild red pigs, and some beautiful, but very shy, red gazelles. 
 It is a curious circumstance — which I think I ascertained to 
 be a fact — that on this part of the Fernand Vaz the gorilla 
 lives only near the left bank, and the chimpanzee only near 
 the right bank of the stream, until one reaches the Eembo 
 Eiver. 
 
 On the 9th I started for the town of my old friend 
 Makaga, where I was heartily received. We went out on a 
 gorilla-hunt on the 10th, but took too many men, and pro- 
 bablj' made too much noise ; for we saw none, and returned 
 next day with our tiouble for our pains. On the 13th I 
 went out with only one hunter, and he took me to a p)art of 
 the country full of the wild pine-apple. The gorilla is very 
 fond of the leaves of this plant, of which it eats the white 
 stems. We saw great quantities Ihus eaten away, therefore 
 we hoped to find here the beasts themselves. 
 
 About no(jn, Mbele, my hunter, was some distance ahead, 
 when suddenly I heard his gun fired. I ran up and found 
 he had shot at and killed a female g(jrilla about half-grown. 
 
 Coming back we heard the cry of the gorillas off at one side 
 of our path. We approached, but were discej-ned, and came 
 up only to sec four young animals making off on their all- 
 foiirs into the woods. I noticed that in their trot their 
 hind legs seemed to play in between their arms ; but they 
 made very good speed. 
 
 Before we got to town again I shot a mhoijo, a very shy 
 animal, of the wolf kind, with long yellowish hair and 
 straight ears. I have often watched these beasts surrounding 
 and chasing small game for themselves. The drove runs 
 
192., EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVI. 
 
 very well together ; and as their policy is to run round and 
 round, they soon bewilder, tire out, and capture any animal 
 of moderate endurance. 
 
 I found this a great gorilla country ; the animals even 
 approached the town early in the morning, and I found that 
 I need not make long journeys in order to reach the hunting- 
 ground. But they are very difficult of approach ; the 
 slightest noise alarms them and senils them off. It is only 
 once in a way that you can surprise an old male, and then he 
 will fight you. 
 
 On the 25th I got another young gorilla. This time I 
 was accessory to its capture. We were walking along in 
 silence, when I heard a cry, and presently saw before me a 
 female gorilla, with a tiny baby gorilla hanging to her 
 breast and sucking. The mother was stroking the little one, 
 and looking fondly down at it ; and the scene was so pretty 
 and touching that I held my fire, and considered — like a 
 Boft-hearted fellow — whether I had not better leave them in 
 peace. Before I could make up my mind, however, my 
 hunter fired and killed the mother, who fell without a 
 struggle. 
 
 The mother fell, but the baby clung to her, and, with 
 pitiful cries, endeavoured to attract her attention. I came 
 up, and when it saw me it hid its poor little head in its 
 mother's breast. It could neither walk nor bite, so we could 
 easily manage it ; and I carried it, while the men bore the 
 mother on a pole. When we got to the village another scene 
 ensued. The men put the body down, and I set the little 
 fellow near. As soon as he saw his mother he crawled to 
 her and threw himself on her breast. He did not find 
 his accustomed nourishment, and I saw that he perceived 
 something was the matter with the old one. He crawled 
 over the bodj', smelt at it, and gave utterance, from time to 
 time, to a plaintive cry, " Hoo, hoo, hoc," which touched my 
 heart. 
 
 I could get no milk for this poor little fellow, who could 
 not eat, and consequently died on the third day after he was 
 caught. He seemed more docile than the others I had, for he 
 already recognised my voice, and would try to hurry towards 
 
Chap. XVI. I AM POISONED. 193 
 
 me when ho saw me. I put the little body in alcohol, and 
 sent it to Doctor Wyman, of Boston, for dissection. 
 
 The mother we skinned ; and, when I came to examine 
 her, I found her a very singular specimen. Her head was 
 much smaller than that of any other gorilla I ever saw, and 
 the rump was of a reddish-brown colour. These are pecu- 
 liarities which made this specimen diiferent from all others 
 I have seen. I called her, therefore, the gorilla with the 
 red rump. 
 
 On the 29th and 30th of November I took my last hunts 
 near Makaga's place. I found gorilla growing scarce. I had 
 hunted thein too perseveringly ; so I determined to return to 
 Biagano to make ready for my trip up the Eembo. 
 
 I found all safe, and at once prepared for my next trip. 
 This, however, was put off by one of those accidents which 
 happen in these barbaric countries olice in a while. On the 
 5th of December I was poisoned by my cook. He was a 
 Sangatanga fellow, who had been sent to me from the 
 Gaboon because I could not stand the cooking of my Biagano 
 friends. He had served in the Cape Lopez slave-factories, 
 and had there learned treachery and thieving. For a time 
 he behaved well ; but by-and-by I began to miss things, and 
 made sure, after watching the Commi fellows pretty closely, 
 that the thief could be none other but my cook. 
 
 On this day I was preparing a tiger's skin which Igala, 
 my hunter, had killed the night before, and had to send cook 
 for something in my storehouse. He came back without the 
 key, which he said was lost. I told him if he did not get it 
 before night I would punish him. 
 
 I had Sholomba, a native prince, to dine with me, and we 
 had fowls, chicken-soup, and a goat for dinner. It happened 
 that Sholomba's family hold chickens in abhorrence as food, 
 believing that one of their ancestors had been cured of a 
 deadly disease by the blood of a fowl ; therefore he ate of the 
 goat. I took two plates of chicken-broth, and had scarce 
 finished the last when I was seized with frightful pains and 
 vomiting, and diarrhcea set in, and lasted all night. I never 
 suffered such frightful torments. 
 
 When I was first taken sick I called Boulay, the cook, who 
 
194 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVI. 
 
 said he had put nothing in the soup ; but when chaiged with 
 poisoning, turned and iled into the woods. The next after- 
 noon, when I was somewhat easier, my people brought the 
 wretch in. He had fled down river, but had been caught. 
 Eanpano and all were very angry, and demanded the life of 
 him who had tried to kill their white man. It was jDroved 
 that he had gone into my storehouse with the key he said 
 was lost ; and, after some prevarication, he admitted that he 
 had taken two tablespoon fuls of the arsenic I always had at 
 hand there, and put it in my soup. I owe my life to his over- 
 dose ; consequently to a kind Providence. 
 
 Eanpano kept Boulay in chains till I was well enough to 
 sit in judgment over him. Then it was determined tliat he 
 should suffer death ; bixt I interfered, and desired that he 
 should be let off with one hundred and ten lashes with a 
 whip of hippopotamus-hide. Eleven £if the stoutest /reemen 
 of the town were chosen to administel the punishment, and 
 when it was over Boulay was again put in chains. 
 
 Bad news travels even in this country, where there are 
 neither mails nor post-roads. Boulaf- had brothers in Cape 
 Lopez, who ill some way heard of his rascality. They were 
 troubled at this disgrace to their family, and appeared before 
 me one day witli four slaves in their train. They thanked me 
 for not killing their brother, which, they said, I had a right 
 to do. They said, '• Boulay has conducted himself ;is a slave 
 in trying to poison his master." Then they begged me to 
 give him to them and to splare his life, and handed over to 
 me the four slaves they had brought as an equivalent. 
 
 The brothers were old, venerable, and honest-looking men. 
 They evidently grieved deepljr for the crime of their kinsman. 
 I tokl them that in my country we did not " make palaver 
 for money ; " that I might have killed their brother, accord- 
 ing to their own laws. Then I called Boulay, and told him 
 how meanlj' he had treated me ; then, taking oif his chains 
 myself, I handed him over to his brothers, with the four 
 slaves they had given me. They thanked me again and 
 again. Eanpano forbade Boulay ever to return, and so they 
 went back to Cape Lo|)ez. 
 
 I found myself, after some weeks, not only entirely re- 
 
Chap. XVII. DEPARTURE FOR GOVMBI. 195 
 
 covered from the effects of the arsenic, but also cured of a 
 fever which bad long beset me. Where quinine has ceased 
 to affect the traveller in Africa, solutions of arsenic are 
 sometimes administered, and with good effect, in fever cases. 
 
 CHAPTEE XVII. 
 
 King Quengueza sends his son to me as a hostage — Invitation to come to 
 his country — Assembling the Biagano people — I leave my property 
 in their hands — Einkimongami appointed the keeper of my goods — 
 Good-bye to Ranpano — Departure for Goumbi — Ascent of Eembo — 
 A man in ntchogo— Reception by Quengueza— Goumbi — Superstitions 
 of King Quengueza— Ceremony for driving away the aniemba — The 
 alumbi house — Hunting — Killing a gorilla — Ordeal — Capture of a 
 young gorilla — Superstitious about gorillas — Bakalai villages — King 
 Obindji — Trial by hot iron. 
 
 Towards the close of January, 1858, when I was thinking of 
 King Quengueza and of my approaching visit to him, the old' 
 fellow sent down his eldest son to me with a lot of ebony, 
 and his youngest son, a boy of ten, who was to be left with 
 me. Quenguez I sent word that I must come soon ; that I 
 should have his escort to go to the far interior, and that he 
 was ready to cut ebony for me. Meantime, lest I should be 
 afraid to tmst myself in his hands, he sent his young son, 
 who was to remain in Eanpano's hands as hostage for my 
 safety. " You see," he sent word, " I am not afraid of you. 
 You may tnist me." 
 
 This message determined me to get ready at once for my 
 trip. I packed my goods and put my house in order, and at 
 last called together the people of Biagano for a serious talk. 
 I knew they were opposed to my taking trade-goods to the 
 interior, but I could not go without. I therefore told them 
 that I not only now was, but intended to remain, their white 
 man ; that I took goods only to pay my way, and that my 
 explorations would help their trade, while I only wanted to 
 hunt. At the same time I told them, if they did not help 
 me with canoes I should leave them and never come back. 
 
19G EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. SVn. 
 
 They were glad to let me go where I wished, and to help me 
 as far as I needed help. 
 
 Next day I had a more formal ceremony still. In my 
 houses remained about two thousand dollars' worth of ebony 
 and goods, together with ivory, all my specimens not sent to 
 America, and various other things of value. These were to 
 remain, and I had to trust to the honour of a parcel of black 
 fellows for their safety. 
 
 Accordingly I took Eanpano and some of his head-men all 
 over the premises, showed them everything I had which was 
 to remain ; then said, " Give me a man to keep all safe, that 
 I, who am your white man, may lose nothing." 
 
 They gave me at once old Einkimon garni, the king's 
 brother, to whom I promised good pay if my things were 
 kept safe. I 
 
 Then I distributed tobacco to all tW people ; and next 
 morning (February 26th) we set off lor G-oumbi, Quengueza's 
 place. ' '^^^. 
 
 I had to take my big boat, becaiise no^noe would hold all 
 the goods, powder and shot, guns and provisions I required. 
 I had 26 guns, 150 pounds of lead, 200 pounds of coarse 
 trade-powder, 30 pounds of fine pow^cj. lor myself, about 
 10,000 yards of cotton cloth, 400 pounds of beads, and quan- 
 tities of iron and brass j)ots, kettles, and pans ; caps, coats, 
 shirts, looking-glasses, fire-steels, flints, knives, plates, glasses, 
 spoons, hats, &o., &o. This is an African explorer's outfit. 
 For this I hoped to get not only friendly treatment, but 
 ebony, ivory, and wax, and perhaps india-rubber. 
 
 We were fifteen in all in my boat. Another canoe, with 
 other fifteen men, followed us. In my own boat, Jombuai, a 
 fellow from my own town, and who had married some wives 
 up the Eembo, was tlie head man; Quengueza's little boy 
 was of our party, and also the brave little Makondai, whom I 
 had at first determined to leave behind, as being too small to 
 stand the fatigues of such a journey. The little fellow 
 entreated so to be taken with us that I at last consented. 
 lie behaved like a trump, and I had no occasion to regret my 
 confidence in him. 
 
 When we had got a few miles up river the slaves of Jom- 
 
Chap. XVII. 
 
 ASCENT OF EEMBO. 
 
 197 
 
 buai came down to bid him good-bye, and brought him a 
 large quantity of plantains— a welcome accession to our 
 provision-store. A few miles up and we were clear of the 
 mangroves, ami the river began to widen, and its shores 
 became beautiful. Fine palms lined the banks, and seemed 
 even to guard them from the encroachments of the full river, 
 which ran along quite level with its banks. 
 
 We pulled neaiiy all night, and by noon of the next day 
 
 PRISONER IN KTCHOaO. 
 
 reached Monwe Island, thirty-five miles from the mouth of 
 the river, but only about ten miles from the sea. Here we 
 took a rest, the heat being excessive. 
 
 A little above Monwe the Fernand Vaz becomes much nar- 
 rower. It then takes an easterly direction ; and from this 
 jjoint upward it is known to the natives as Rembo, which 
 means " The Eiver." At Quayonbi several small islands 
 
198 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 divide the river temporarily into different channels, without, 
 however, seriously obstructing the navigation. 
 
 The land which divides the river into three here we found 
 to be mere muil-banks, half-overflowed and covered with 
 reeds. When we got into the main stream I found it suddenly 
 narrower, but a full rushing tide, two hundred yards wide, 
 and from four to five fathoms in depth all along, with no 
 shallows or other impediments to navigation. 
 
 On the 28th we passed numerous villages, my men shout- 
 ing, singing, and firing guns, and the people gazing at us 
 from shore in great wonder. In the afternoon I went ashore 
 at the village of " Charley," a quarrelsome fellow, who had 
 become known to white traders some years before by seizing 
 and imprisoning a whole canoe-load of negroes who had been 
 sent up on a trading expedition. He put them into a very 
 uncomfortable kind of stocks called wteAog'o, which consists of 
 a heavy billet of wood in which the feet are stuck, and a 
 lighter billot into which the hands are secured. Thus the 
 man is helpless both against men and against mosquitoes 
 and flies; and here the poor fellows were kept till the trader, 
 who was waiting in a ship, sent up a ransom for them. 
 
 The two chiefs treated me very well, and said they felt 
 friendly towards me, as indeed they showed by killing in my 
 honour the fatted calf (it was a goat), and sending besides 
 some chickens and plantains. They were much alarmed at 
 the charmed pistol (one of Colt's revolvers), which I fired off 
 to show them how many of them I could kill without 
 stopping. 
 
 About one o'clock the next day (the 29th) we came to 
 Goumbi, the residence of King Quengueza. Heie we were 
 received in a most triumphant manner. I could not make 
 myself heard for shouts and the firing of guns. The whole 
 popTilation of Goumbi crowded down to the shore to see me ; 
 and I was led up in procession to an immense covered space, 
 capable of holding at least a thousand people, and surrounded 
 by seats. These were quickly filled up bj' the people, among 
 whom I presently found there were strangers from various 
 parts of the interior, drawn thither by the news that 1 
 was coming up to Goumbi, and now gazing at me, and 
 
200 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 especially at my bair, with the greatest wonder in their 
 Countenances. 
 
 A large high seat was appointed for me, and another close 
 to it was for Quengueza, who presently arrived, and, with a 
 face beaming with joy, shook hands with me. 
 
 He is an old, white-woolled negro, very tall, spare, and of 
 a severe countenance, betokening great energj' and courage, 
 which he has, and for which he is celebrated all over this 
 country. He is a very remarkable man, considering his 
 opportunities ; and has more natural intelligence than any 
 other negro I met in Africa. He made haste to explain to 
 me that, as he was in mourning for his brother, who had died 
 two years ago, he could not dress finely. He had on a finely- 
 knit black cap, and a cloth of black also, both of Ashira make, 
 and really beautiful ; no shirt — which article is not allowed 
 to mourners — and an American coat too small for him. 
 
 When he had done welcoming me, I called his little son, 
 Akoonga, whom he had sent me as a hostage, and who had 
 been brought up in my canoe. When he came forward, I 
 said to the king, in a loud voice, that the people might hear, 
 " You sent your son to me to keep, so that I might feel safe 
 to come to you. 1 am not afraid. I like you, aud can trust 
 you. I believe you will treat me and u\y men rightly ; and 
 therefore I have brought your little son back to you. I do 
 not want him for safety." 
 
 At this there was tremendous shouting, and all the people 
 seemed overjoyed. 
 
 Then I reminded the king of his promise to let me go into 
 the interior, and to help me. The king and the people 
 shouted approval. Then I said I had come to benefit them. 
 1 had brought goods, and would buy their ebony and ivory, 
 as much as they would get. At this announcement the 
 shouts and rejoicings grew boundless and obstreperous. I had 
 touched — as I expected — their most sensitive nerve. 
 
 The king then rose to reply. There was immediately a 
 dead silence — for Quengueza is honoured by his people. He 
 first gave me a large house, which he pointed out to me. It 
 had a verandah with seats in front. Then he turned to the 
 people, aud said : — 
 
Chap. XVII. RECEPTION AT GOVUlBI. 201 
 
 " Tliis is my nianrjani (white man). He has come from a 
 far country to see mo. I went down to beg him to come up 
 to me. Now he has come. Let no one do any harm to his 
 people. For him I need not speak. Give food to his people. 
 Treat them well. Do not steal anything. A big j)alaver 
 would come on you." 
 
 Then he addressed himself to the Ashira and Bakalai, 
 who were present, saying, " Beware ! Do riot steal my white 
 man, for if you should make the attempt, I would sell 
 you all." 
 
 This closed the ceremonies. 
 
 Goumbi is ninety-five miles from the mouth of the river. 
 It is the last town of the Commi ; and is important because it 
 commands the whole of the upper river, so far as the natives 
 are concerned, by a hereditary right. The Ahouya clan, 
 who reside in Goumbi, and of whom Quengueza is the chief, 
 claim, and are allowed to have, the sole right of trading up 
 river. Sometimes they allow a few down-river Commi who 
 have wives in Goumbi to go up and cut ebony ; but even 
 this privilege is t-paringlj' granted, and for all intents and 
 purposes Quengueza has a monopoly of all the commerce with 
 the rich country beyond, and really considers the jieople who 
 live above him as his vassals. 
 
 It is very singular that among all these people descent and 
 inheritance are taken from the mother. The son of a Commi 
 man by a woman of another tribe or nation is not counted a 
 Commi ; and to narrow it dov\ n to families, to be a true Abouya 
 (citizen of Goumbi), it is necessary to be born of an Abouya 
 mother. If only the father were Abouya, the children would 
 be considered half-breeds. 
 
 Up to Goumbi there is safe navigation for little steamers 
 in almost every month of the year, and with light-draught 
 sieamers at any time. The river is deep and narrow, and the 
 banks steep all the way up. About fifteen miles above 
 Quayombi the current becomes stronger. Here the hills 
 come down to the river, receding however above. The 
 country seemed fertile and productive ; and the number 
 of villages we passed on our way argues well for its fertility. 
 
 On the 1st of March I received a visit from one Igoumba, a 
 
202 BQVATOIIIAL AFlllCA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 chief of the Ashiras, an interior people. He had fled from his 
 home because he had been accused of practising sorcery. 
 Also several Bakalai chiefs came to see me, and asked me to 
 visit their country. 
 
 Quengueza was all this time perfectly happy. He danced, 
 and sang, and made jokes, and altogether was as jolly as 
 though all his wishes and desires had been gratified at once. 
 He gave me back his little boy, Akoonga, to stay with me ; 
 and, as Makondai is already my steward, the young prince 
 has been appointed to wash my dishes. I gave Quengueza 
 his present of fifty yards of cloth, a gun, a neptune, and some 
 beads, &c. He was greatly pleased, and promised again that 
 I should go into the interior as far as he had authority and 
 influence. 
 
 Nevertheless he is curiously superstitious. For a year he 
 had not passed down a street which leads most directly to 
 the water, but had always gone a roundabout way. This 
 was because when he came to the throne this street was pro- 
 nounced to be bewitched by an enemy of his ; and he was 
 persuaded that if he passed by it he would surely die. Several 
 times efibi ts had been made by distinguished doctors to drive 
 away the witch which there lay in wait ; but the king, 
 though he believed in sorcery, had not much faith in the 
 exercisers or doctors. 
 
 A last attempt to drive off the aniemha or witch was made 
 on the night of March 2nd-3rd. A famous doctor from the 
 far-ofl' Bakalai country had been brought down to perform this 
 act. His name was Aquailai. The people gathered in great 
 numbers under the immense hangar or cove'-ed space in which 
 I had been received, and there lit fires, around which they 
 sat. The space thus covered was one hundred and fifty feet 
 long by forty wide, and roofed with bamboo and leaves. 
 About ten o'clock, when it was pitch-dark, the doctor com- 
 menced operations by singing some boasting songs, recounting 
 liis power over witches. This was the signal for all the 
 people to gather into their houses and about their fires under 
 the Itangar. So much haste did they make, that two women, 
 failing to get home, and afraid to go farther through the 
 streets, took refuge in my house. 
 
Chap. XVIl. EXORCISM. 203 
 
 Next all the fires were carefully extinguished, all the lights 
 put out ; and in about an hour more not a light of anj' kind 
 was in the whole town except mine. I gave notice that white 
 men were exempted from the rules made in such cases, and 
 this was allowed. The most pitchy darkness and the most 
 complete silence reigned everywhere. No voice could be 
 heard even in a whisper, among the several thousand people 
 gathered in the gloom. 
 
 At last the curious silence was broken by the doctor, who, 
 standing in the centre of the town, began some loud babbling 
 of which I could not make out the meaning. From time to 
 time the people answered him in chorus. This went on for 
 an hour, and was really one of the strangest scenes I ever 
 took part in. I could see nothing but the faces of the two 
 women in my house, who were badly frightened, poor things ! 
 as, in fact, all the people were. The hollow voice of the 
 witch-doctor resounded curiously through the silence; and 
 when the answer of many mingled voices came through he 
 darkness, it really assumed the air of a serious, old-fashioned 
 incantation scene. 
 
 At last, just at midnight, I heard the doctor approach. He 
 had bells girded about him, which he jingled as he walked. 
 He went separately to every family in the town, and asked if 
 the witch which obstructed the king's highway belonged to 
 them. Of course all answered, " Ko." Then he began to run 
 up and down the bewitched street, calling out loudly for the 
 witch to go off. Presently he came back and announced that 
 he could no longer see the aniemba, and that doubtless she 
 had gone, never to come back. At this all the people rushed 
 out and shouted, " Go away ! go away ! and never come back 
 to hurt our king ! " 
 
 Then fires were lit, and we all sat down to eat. This 
 done, all the fires were once more extinguished, and all the 
 people sang wild songs until four o'clock. Then the fires 
 were again lit. 
 
 At sunrise the whole population gathered to accompany 
 their king down the dreaded street to the water. 
 
 Quengueza, I know, was brave as a hunter and as a warrior. 
 He was also intelligent in many things where his people were 
 
204 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 very stupid. But the poor old king was now horribly afraid. 
 He was assured that the witch was gxme ; but he evidently 
 thought himself walking to almost certain death. He would 
 have refused to go if it had been possible. He hesitated, but 
 at last determined to face his f/'te, and walked manfully 
 down to the river and baolf amid the plaudits of his loyal 
 subjects. 
 
 I was at first puzzled to know the meaning of certain 
 miniature huts which are seen standing behind or between 
 the dwelling-houses, and which are held sacred. No one but 
 the owner himself is allowed to enter these little huts ; but 
 Quengueza's great friendship for me overcame his African 
 scruples in my case ; and I was permitted, on my return 
 from the iuterior, to examine his alumhi-honse. These erec- 
 tions are spuken of by the natives as fetich-houses ; and if, 
 jierchance, a stranger is allowed to peep into one, he sees a 
 few boxes containing chalk or ochre, and upon a kind of little 
 table a cake of the same, with which the owner rubs his body 
 every time he goes on a fishing, hunting, or trading expedi- 
 tion. The chalk is considered sacred, and to be smeared with 
 it serves as a protection from danger. If you are a great 
 friend, the chalk of the alumbi will be marked upon you on 
 your departure from the residence of your host. But the 
 boxes generally contain also the skulls of the ancestors of the 
 owner, at least those relatives who were alive during his own 
 life-time ; for, on the death of such a relative, his or her head 
 is cut off and placed in a box full of white clay, looking like 
 chalk, where it is left to rot and saturate the chalk ; both 
 skull and saturated chalk being then held sacred. The 
 skulls of twin children are almost always used for the 
 alumbi. 
 
 When a guest is entertained of whom presents are expected, 
 the host, in a quiet way, goes from time to time into the 
 fetich-house and scrapes a little bone-powder from a favourite 
 skull, and puts it into the food which is being cooked as a 
 present to the guest. The idea is that, by consuming the 
 scrapings of the skull, the blood of their ancestors enters 
 into your body, and thus, becoming of one blood, you are 
 naturally led tjlove them, and grant them what- they wish. 
 
Chaf. XVII. EMBLEMS OF WEALTH. 205 
 
 By the 6tli, matters began to bo put in train for some 
 hunting-expeditions. Food was scarce in town on account of 
 the great number of strangers present ; but the king's thirty 
 wives — he has only this moderate number— bring food forme 
 and my men every day. Quengueza has given me Etia, his 
 favourite hunter and slave, for a guide in the bush. This 
 Etia is a fine-looking old man, a native of the far interior, 
 whence the king bought him many years ago. He lives now 
 on a little plantation outside of town, where he had a neat 
 house and a nice old wife, who always treated me in a kind 
 motherly way. Etia's business is to supply the royal larder 
 with " bush-meat ; " and he hunts almost every week for this 
 purpose. 
 
 Also, Quengueza gave me Mombon, his overseer, chamber- 
 lain, steward, man of business, factotum ; the man whose 
 place it was to take care of the king's private affairs, set his 
 slaves to work, oversee his plantations, and who had the care 
 of the keys of the royal houses. Mombon was to see that I 
 was made comfortable in town. 
 
 A man's wealth is reckoned here, first by the number of 
 slaves he owns, next by the number of wives, and then by 
 the number of chests. Chests are used to secure goods in. 
 Therefore chests have come to be the synonym here for 
 property of this kind, as banks indicate money with us. 
 Now, chests, to be secure, must have locks, and therefore locks • 
 of American make are in great demand all over this country. 
 Native locks are not very secure. But as locks secure chests, 
 so keys are worn in great numbers as the outward symbol of 
 ownership in locks and chests and property. And I found 
 shams even in Goumbi, for several of my Commi friends had 
 a o-reat array of chests, most of which were empty; and 
 indeed it is the mode to collect as many boxes as you can, no 
 matter if you have nothing to put in them. 
 
 Some of their houses have locks also. But to have a lock 
 you must have a door ; and though this door is a very narrow, 
 shabby affair, a whole great tree must be whittled down with 
 their rude axes to make the board which shall answer for a 
 door. Therefore doors are a luxury in Goumbi, as indeed 
 also on the coast. 
 
 15 ' 
 
206 EQDATUBIAL AL'BWA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 On tlie 8tli we started for a two daj^s' hunt. Etia and 
 Gambo, the latter a son of Igoumha, an Ashira chief, and a 
 noted hunter, and a few others, with myself, made up the 
 party. Wo set out from Etia's house, where the old fellow 
 had skulls of elephants, hippopotami, leopards, and gorillas 
 ranged around as tro23hies of his prowess. Gambo was an 
 ill-looking fellow, by reason of being much pitted with the 
 small-pox ; but he had fiery eyes, good courage, and a kind 
 heart, as I discovered. 
 
 I was amused at a remark Quengueza made, as we started 
 from the town together. " See," said he, to some people, 
 " how hunters love each other ! No matter if they come from 
 different nations, and are different people. See how my 
 white man loves these black huntei s ! " 
 
 We had been going through the woods about three hours, 
 when at last we came upon fresh gorilla-tracks. Etia now 
 sot out by himself, while Gambo and I walked silently in 
 another direction. The gorilla is so difSoult of approach that 
 we bad literally to creep through the thick woods when in 
 their vicinity. The dead silence and the tediousness of the 
 approach, together with the fact that the hunter cannot expect 
 to see his enemy till he is close upon him, while even then the 
 gloom of the forest makes him but dimly visible — all this 
 makes the hunt of this animal most trying to the nerves. For 
 *it is in the hunter's mind that if he misses — if his bullet does 
 not speed to the most vital point — the wounded and infuriated 
 animal will make short work of his opponent. 
 
 As we crept silently along, suddenly the woods resounded 
 with the report of a gun. We sped at once towards the quarter 
 whence the report came, and there found old Etia sitting 
 complacently upon the dead body of the largest female gorilla 
 I over saw. lie bad hit her fatally with his first ball. The 
 total height of the animal was 4 feet 7 inches ; length of the 
 hand, 7^ inches; length of the foot from the hair comprising 
 the heel, 8i inches ; round of hand above the thumb, 9 J inches ; 
 ditto under the thumb, 9 inches. Length of the fingers (hands) : 
 thumbs, 1| inches; first finger, 4 inches; second, 4^ inches ; 
 third, 3| inches ; fourth, Scinches. Circumference of the fingers 
 (hands) ; thumb, 2| inches ; first finger, 3t inches ; second, 
 
Chap. XVII. DRINKING THE MBOUNDOU. 207 
 
 4 inclies ; third, 3 J- inches; fourth, 3 inches. Gircuniference 
 of the toes : thumb, Sg inches ; first finger, 2j inches ; second, 
 2 J inches; third, 2-^ inches; fourth, IJ inches. This was a 
 huge animal for a female, for these are always much smaller 
 than the males. 
 
 The nest morning I heard a great commotion on the planta- 
 tion, and learned that an old doctor, named Olanga-Gondo, 
 was to drink the mboundou. This is an intoxicating poison, 
 which is believed by these people to confer on the drinker — 
 if it do not kill him — the power of divination. It is much 
 used in all this part of the country to try persons accused of 
 witchcraft. A poor fellow is supposed to have bewitched his 
 neighbour, or the king, and he is forced to drink mboundou 
 to establish his innocence. If the man dies he is declared a 
 witch. If he survives he is innocent. This ordeal is much 
 dreaded by the negroes, who often run away from home and 
 stay away all their lives rather than submit to it. The doctors 
 have the reputation of being unharmed by the mboundou * 
 and I am bound to admit that Olanga drank it without serious 
 consequences. Nevertheless it is a deadly and speedy poison. 
 I have seen it administered, and have seen the poor drinker 
 fall down dead, with blood gushing from his mouth, eyes, and 
 nose in five minutes after taking the dose. I was told by a 
 native friend that sometimes, when the mboundou-drinker is 
 really hated, the dose is strengthened secretly ; and this was 
 the case, I suppose, in those instances where I saw it prove 
 
 * I gave to Prof. Jolm Torrey, of New York, some of the leaves aud 
 root of this remarkable plant for chemical analysis, and insert here the 
 note in wliich he communicates Ids opinion as to its properties and 
 chemical affinities. 
 
 " From the intensely poisonous quality of the root, and the symptoms 
 which result from its administration, there can be little doubt that the 
 active principle is a vegeto-alkali belonginp; to the Strychnine group. 
 Under a powerful glass, I have not been able to detect any crystalline 
 salt in the bark. The taste of the infusion is extiemely bitter. The 
 ligneous portion of the bark is mufh less active, is very hard, and, from 
 the numerous annual rings, it must be of very plow growth. 
 
 " The mboundou pretty certainly belongs to a natural order that 
 contains many venomous plants — viz., the LoGANiACEiE ; and, from the 
 peculiar veining of tlie leaves, it is probably a species of Strychnos 
 belonging to that section of the genus which includes 8. nux vomica." 
 
208 EQUArOniAL 4FRICA. Chap. XVU. 
 
 fatal. I have also been assured by Begroes that sometimes 
 the veins of the person who drinks it burst open. 
 
 This time 1 overlooked the whole operation. Several of 
 the natives took the root and scraped it into a bowl. Into 
 this a pint of water was poured. In about a minute fermen- 
 tation took place : the ebullition looked very much like that 
 of champagne when poured into a glass. The water then 
 took the reddish colour of the cuticle of the mboundou root. 
 When the fermentation subsided, Olanga was called by his 
 friends. The drinker is not permitted to be present at the 
 preparation of the mboundou, but he may send two friends 
 to see that all is fair. 
 
 When Olanga came he emptied the bowl at a draught. In 
 about five minutes the poison took effect. He began to stagger 
 about. His e3es became bloodshot. His limbs twitched 
 convulsively. His speech grew thick;* and other important 
 symptoms showed themselves, which are considered as a sign 
 that the poison will not be fatal. The man's whole behaviour 
 was that of a drunken man. He began to babble wildly ; 
 and now it was supposed that the inspiration was upon him. 
 Immediately they began to ask him whether any man was 
 trying to bewitch Quengueza. Tliis question was repeated 
 several times. At last he said, " Yes, some one was trying 
 to bewitch the king." Then came the query, " Who ? " 
 But by this time the poor fellow was fortunately hopelessly 
 tipsy, and incapable of reasonable speech. He babbled some 
 unintelligible jargon, and presently the palaver was declared 
 over. 
 
 While he was being questioned, about one hundred people 
 sat around with sticks in their hands. These they beat 
 regularly upon the ground, and sung in a monotone — 
 
 " If he is a witch, let the mboundou kill him. 
 If lie is not, let the mboundou go out." 
 
 The whole ceremony lasted about half an hour ; and when 
 
 * A frequent and involuntary discharge of the urine is the surest in- 
 dication that the mboundou will have no fatal effect, as it proved with 
 Olanga, otherwise it is generally followed by death. The very words 
 employed by the men when any one drinks the poison seem to imply what 
 are its usual consequences. 
 
Chap. XVI r. TRIALS FOR SORCERY. 209 
 
 it was over the people dispersed, and Olanga, who had by 
 that time partially recovered, lay down to sleep. I was told 
 that this old Olanga could drink the poison in very con- 
 siderable quantities and at frequent intervals, with no other 
 ill effect than this intoxication. This gave him, of course, a 
 great name among these superstitious people. 
 
 Accusations of sorcery are really the cause of very many 
 troubles and miseries among these people. On the 11th 
 Obindji's younger brother was brought up on a charge of 
 having bewitched to death his elder brother, Obindji's pre- 
 decessor. This man had been dead a year, and his poor 
 brother had already drunk mboundou three times to establish 
 his innocence. Still the charge was pushed. ■ He gave away 
 some slaves for peace' sake. But now his brother-in-law 
 demanded another trial. 1 interfered and procured his release, 
 at least while I am here. 
 
 Next day (the 10th) we were to go to a considerable 
 distance, to a spot where Etia gave me hopes we should 
 catch a young gorilla alive, perhaps. This I was most 
 anxious of all to do. I would have gone through any 
 hardships and peril to get one large enough to be kept 
 alive. 
 
 This time we had a large party : Etia, Gambo, myself, and 
 ten men, each armed and laden with provisions for a couple 
 of days. The men were covered with fetiches and charms. 
 They had painted their faces red, and had cut their hands — 
 this bleeding of the hands being done for luck. The fellows 
 were very nearly naked — but this is their usual habit. 
 
 As for me, I had also made extra preparations. I had 
 blackened my face and hands with powdered charcoal and 
 oil, and my blue drill-shirt and trousers and black shoes 
 made me as dark as any of them. My revolver hung at my 
 side, with ammunition-bag and brandy-flask. My rifle lay 
 upon my shoulder. All this excited the admiration of the 
 crowd who assembled to see us set out. 
 
 Quengueza was greatly delighted, and e_xolaimed, " What 
 kind of ntangani (white man) is this? He fears nothing; 
 he cares for neither sun nor water; he loves nothing but 
 the hunt." 
 
210 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVII 
 
 The old fellow cliarged the people to take great care of his 
 white man, and to defend him with their lives if need be. 
 
 We travelled all day, and about sunset came to a little 
 river. Here we began at once to make a fire and leafy 
 shelters for the night. Scarce was the firewood gathered, 
 and we safely bestowed under our shelters, than a storm 
 came up, which lasted half an hour. Then all was clear 
 once more. We cooked plantains and smoked fish. I fried 
 a piece of ham for myself ; and, with tobacco afterwards, we 
 were as jolly as could be. Now came stories of gorillas, to 
 which I always listened with great interest. The natives of 
 the whole gorilla region have like superstitions about these 
 ferocious beasts, though each relater speaks from different 
 authority. 
 
 " I remember," said one, " my father told me he once went 
 out to the forest, when just in his path he met a great 
 gorilla. My father had his spear in his hands ; when the 
 gorilla saw the spear he began to roar. Ttien my father 
 was terrified and dropped his spear. When the gorilla saw 
 that my father dropped the spear he was pleased. He looked 
 at him, then left him and went into the thick forest. Then 
 my father was glad, and went on his way." 
 
 Here all shouted together, " Yes ! so we must do when we 
 meet the gorilla. Drop the spear. That appeases him." 
 
 Next Gambo spoke ; " Several dry seasons ago a man sud- 
 denly disappeared from my village after an angry quarrel. 
 Some time after an Ashira of that village was out in the 
 forest. He met a very large gorilla. That gorilla was the 
 man who had disappeared. He had turned into a gorilla. 
 He jumped on the poor Ashira, and bit a piece out of his 
 arm. Then he let him go. Then the man came back, with 
 his bleeding arm. He told me this. I hope we shall meet 
 no such man -gorillas. They are very wicked. We would 
 have terrible times." 
 
 Chorus : "No, we shall not meet such wicked gorillas." 
 
 Then one of the men spoke up : " If we kill a gorilla 
 to-morrow, I should like to have a piece of the brain for my 
 fetich. Nolhing makes a man so brave as to have a fetich of 
 gfirilla's brain. Tliis gives a man a strong heart." 
 
Chap. XVII. A GAFTIVE GORILLA. 211 
 
 C/jorws (of those who lemained awake): "Yes! this gives 
 a man a strong heart." 
 
 Thus we gradually dropjsed off asleep. 
 
 Next morning we cleaned and reloaded our guns, and 
 started off to the hunting ground. Wo had gone on ahout 
 an hour when we hoard the cry of a young gorilla after its 
 mother. Etia heard it first, and at once pointed out the 
 direction in which it was. 
 
 At once we began to walk with greater caution than 
 before, and presently Etia and Gambo crept ahead, as they 
 were expert with the net, and also the best woodsmen. I 
 unwillingly remained behind, but dared not go with them 
 lest my clumsier movements should betraj^ our presence. 
 
 In about half an hour we heard two guns fired. Eunning 
 up we found the mother-gorilla shot, but her little one had 
 escaped. They had not been able to catch it. 
 
 The poor mother lay there in her gore, but the little fellow 
 was off in the woods ; so we concealed ourselves hard by to 
 wait for its return. Presently it came up, jumped on its 
 mother, began sucking at her breasts and fondling her. 
 Then Etia, Gambo, and I rushed upon it. Though evidently 
 less tlian two years old, it proved very strong, and escaped 
 from us. But we gave chase, and in a few minutes had it 
 fast ; not, however, before one of the men had his arm 
 severely bitten by the wicked little wretch. 
 
 It proved to be a young female. We carried it back to 
 the mother, first securing it with some stout cords and 
 sticks. It ran to its dead mother, and in a touching way 
 buried its head in her bosom, and seemed really ■to feel 
 grief. 
 
 We determined to go back to the camp for the day. The 
 mother was at once skinned, and I took skin and skeleton, 
 while the men divided the meat among them. The little one 
 was then carried along, but jsroved very troublesome, making 
 savage attempts to bite all who came near her. 
 
 The mother-gorilla was 4 feet 4 inches in height ; the 
 little one was 2 feet 1 inch high. 
 
 The little one, unhappily, lived but ton days after capture. 
 She persistently refused to eat any cooked food, and any- 
 
212 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 thing, in fact, but the nuts and berries which they eat in 
 the forest, and which my men were obliged to gather daily 
 for her use. 8he was not so ferocious as the male I had 
 before, but quite as treacherous and quite as untamable. 
 She permitted no one to approach her without making offen- 
 sive demonstrations. Her eyes seemed somewhat milder, but 
 had the same gloomy and treacherous look, and she had the 
 same way as my other intractable captive, of looking you 
 straight in the eyes when she was meditating an attack. I 
 remarked also the same manoeuvre practised by the other 
 when she wished to seize something — say my leg, which, by 
 reason of her chain, she could not reach with her arm ; she 
 looked me straight in the face, then quick as a flash threw 
 her body on one leg and arm, and reached out with the 
 other leg. Several times I had narrow escapes of a grip 
 from her strong great-toe. I thought I saw sometimes that 
 when she looked at me it was as though she wei-e cross- 
 eyed, but of this I could not make certain. All her motions 
 were remarkably quick, and her strength, though so small 
 and young, was extraordinary. 
 
 While she was alive no woman who was enceinte, nor the 
 husband of such woman, dared approach her cage. They 
 believe firmly that should the husband of a woman with 
 child, or the woman herself, see a gorilla, even a dead one, 
 she would give birth to a gorilla, and not to a human child. 
 This superstition I have noticed among other tribes too, and 
 only in the case of the gorilla. 
 
 When we leturned to town I found the king: makine a 
 tremendous row about the misconduct of a piece of property 
 he had inherited from his deceased brother. 
 
 Now the piece of property which had caused Quengueza's 
 ire was the favourite wife of the deceased king. The mourn- 
 ing-time was nearly over, and Quengueza had announced that 
 the royal widows should be divided among his male rela- 
 tives—cousins — he reserving to himself only one or two 
 of the best-looking. Now the royal fancy had been set 
 particularly upon this one in question, and she, with feminine 
 
 perverseness, bad been caught in an intrigue with a common 
 
 but very good-looking — fellow of the town. Quengueza was 
 
Chap. XVII. A EAINSTORM. 213 
 
 highly enraged. He swore he would not take a single one 
 of his brother's widows. He swore revenge on the fellow 
 who had so displaced him. The people were very much 
 distressed. They came in a body and begged him to take 
 at least two of his brother's wives. The town was agitated 
 the whole day upon the important question ; and I was 
 pleased to hear at sunset that Quengueza had at last thought 
 it best to accede to the wishes of his people. So that fuss 
 was over. 
 
 On the 18th of March I asked Quengueza to help me 
 forward to the interior. The Bakalai and Ashira chiefs had 
 both asked me to come to their country, assuring me good 
 hunts and kind treatment. 
 
 On the 22nd, we got off for up the river. Quengueza and 
 I with my baggage were in a large canoe, which had twenty- 
 two paddlers. The Ashira and Bakalai chiefs followed in 
 other canoes, and after them followed several Goumbi canoes. 
 It was intensely hot. Even the negroes suffered ; and, though 
 I had a thick umbrella over my head, and sat quite still, I 
 had frequently to bathe my head, for I feared a sunstroke. . 
 
 The river is naiTOw but quite deep above Goumbi, and the 
 current is much stronger than below. It is, in fact, now a 
 real and live river, flowing in a deep channel between high 
 lands and hills. 
 
 The iirst town we stopped at was Akaka, the first of the 
 Bakalai towns, about fifteen miles from Goumbi. From here 
 I could see the high mountains of the far interior. They 
 rose blue against the sky to the E.N.E. 
 
 A little before we got to Akaka we came to a holy place 
 on the river called Evendja-Quenrjouai. Here all hands got 
 out of the canoes to dance. It is the rule that all who have 
 not passed up the river before shall sing a song of praise (o 
 the god of the place, and pluck a branch from a tiee which 
 must be set in the mud near the shore. This is for luck. 
 Poor Makondai was hurried off to take his share in the 
 devotions before I knew what was going to be done. 
 
 In the afternoon we lay by at a plantation, while a terrible 
 rainstorm burst over the country, cooling the air deliciously. 
 These storms, which come up at this season nearly every 
 
214 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 day, help one to bear tlie dreadful heat which, without this 
 relief, would be, I believe, insupportable. To-day at noon 
 my thermometer stood at 119° Fahrenheit in the shade of 
 my umbrella. 
 
 When we stopped for breakfast next day, I noticed a little 
 way from vis an extraordinary tree, quite the largest in 
 height and circumference I ever saw in Africa. It was a 
 real monarch of even this great forest. It rose in one 
 straight and majestic trunk entirely branchless, till the top 
 reached far above all the surrounding trees. There at the 
 top the branches were spread out somewhat like an umbrella, 
 but could not give much shade, being so high. I found that 
 this tree was highly venerated by the people, who call it the 
 oloitmi. Its kind are not common even here, where its home 
 is said to be. Its bark is said to have certain healing pro- 
 perties, and is also in request from a belief that if a man 
 going oif on a trading expedition w^ashes himself first all 
 over in a decoction of its juices in water, he will be lucky 
 and shrewd in making bargains. For this reason great strips 
 were torn off this tree to the height of at least twenty feet. 
 
 Bakalai villages became more frequent ; and I see that 
 these people are more energetic and provident than the sea- 
 shore tribes. At Mpopo I saw thousands of plantain trees 
 surrounding the village. Finally we arrived at the village 
 of Obindji, a chief who is a great friend of Quengueza's. 
 
 We came up firing guns and singing songs. When we 
 approached the shore Obindji came down in great state, 
 dressed in his silk hat (the crown), a coat and shirt, and a 
 nice cloth. He was ringing his kendo, a bell, which is the 
 insignia of kingship here and among some other tribes of 
 Central Africa — something like a royal sceptre. 
 
 I said, " Why do j'ou ring your kendo?" * 
 
 * The kendo is a rude bell of iron, fashioned with a long handle, also 
 of iron and of the same piece, as shown in the engraving. The sound 
 which with us announces the vicinity of a herd of cows or sheep, in Africa 
 precedes the advent of the sovereign, who uses the kendo only when on 
 visits of slate or on business of impoi'tance. The skin represented on the 
 cut in tlie opposite page, is stalled into the bell to prevent the possibility 
 of its sounding when not required. 
 
Chap. XVII. 
 
 TBE KENDO. 
 
 215 
 
 He replied, " Obindji's heart is glad, and he thanks his 
 Mboundji (fetich) that he has to-day come up higher than 
 he ever stood before. A Mbuiri (spirit) has come to see 
 Obindji." 
 
 When we were landed, and the two kings and I were 
 
 seated in 
 c h ai r s, the 
 grand recep- 
 tion began. 
 Quengueza 
 gave an ac- 
 count of his 
 entire intercourse with me from the time he 
 camedown to see me to the present hour. All 
 was said in short sentences ; and the people 
 who listened gave frequent approval. Then 
 Obindji replied, giving, in like manner, a 
 statement of his feelings when he heard that 
 Quengueza was about to bring a white man 
 to see him, etc. 
 
 The town of Obindji is about 140 miles 
 from the mouth of the river. The clan is 
 very powerful ; but when their chief wished 
 to remove to the river from his inland 
 settlement, most of his people lefused. 
 
 They have a few guns among them ; but 
 a man who owns a gun and some powder is 
 rich. They were much astonished at my 
 percussion-locks, and yet more at my re- 
 volver, which was a constant marvel to 
 them. Revolvers of simple construction 
 would bring almost any price among these 
 KENDO people if they could be made with flint- 
 
 locks, 
 the town, and another which lay just above, separated 
 from Obindji's by a narrow creek, were surrounded with 
 extensive manioc plantations. Here I notice again that the 
 Bakalai raise better crops than the lower tribes. 
 
 One very old chief came down from his town, over a hun- 
 
210 EQVATOBIAL AFBICA. Chap. XVII. 
 
 dred miles farther up the river. When he came ashore 
 Quengueza and I went to see him in his house, waiving 
 ceremony on account of his age. When he saw me he started 
 back, and was much moved. He exclaimed, " You are not a 
 man. You are a mbuiri" (spirit). He had come the long 
 journey, he said, to see the man who made guns and powder. 
 
 I had a laugh at Quengueza, who endeavours to teach all 
 his neighbours the ideas he gets from me. In common with 
 many of his subjects, the old fellow was much troubled with 
 fleas, and when, as he stood talking with me, a flea became 
 too troublesome, he used to adroitly catch him, and gravely 
 crack him on his thumbnail. This disgusted me so that I 
 remonstrated, and at last succeeded in reforming this one of 
 his abuses. But no sooner had he given up the disgusting 
 practice himself, than he at once forbade it to all his own 
 subjects, and became a most zealous advocate of decency 
 among our Bakalai friends. 
 
 " Why do you crack your fleas before my white man, eh? 
 Dirty fellow ! Go away 1 You make my white man sick ! " 
 he used to cry out. And to-day, when we had our interview 
 with the up-river chief, Quengueza was equally zealous — 
 though more polite — with him. But the old man replied, 
 "Thus have I done all my life — it is now too late;" and 
 gravely continued his massacre. 
 
 Obindji's chair is a remarkable specimen of furniture, the 
 only question arising in my mind is to know how my friend 
 Obindji finds comfort in such a position. It is really amusing 
 to me to look at him while he is seated on a little stool, his 
 back resting on the main part of the arm-chair, while his 
 arms are supported by two of the roots. In this attitude he 
 seems to enjoy his pipe most wonderfully, and presents a 
 perfect type of African laziness. The easy-chair is made out 
 of a single root of a tree. 
 
 As Obindji's village is to be our headquarters, we are having 
 houses built. The men have gone out into the forest to collect 
 bark, and leaves, and posts. Meantime Sunday came, and I 
 requested Quengueza to make the men rest on this day, ex- 
 plaining to him the nature of our Sabbath. 
 
 The old man was piizzled for a moment, then said : — 
 
Chap. XVII. 
 
 KING OBINOJI. 
 
 217 
 
 " We are much hurried now. Suppose you put off the 
 Sunday for three or four weeks ; then we can have as many 
 Sundays as you want." 
 
 I had a slight attack of fever, caused doubtless by the 
 great heat we buffered from on the river. Some of the men 
 had fever, too, and also Quengueza's brother. I gave them 
 quinine, which cured them and relieved me too. 
 
 Up-river chiefs continue to come in with their wives, slaves, 
 and people^ all anxious to see the man who makes guns, 
 beads, iron and brass kettles, etc. ; and all rapt in astonish- 
 ment at my strange appeiranco. Many of the chiefs are 
 
 OBINDJI IN HIS EASY-OHAIR. 
 
 fine-looking fellows, well armed with spears and. bows. They 
 seem brave and warlike. 
 
 On the 30th my house was done. I had with me an 
 American clock ; and this excited the constant wonder and 
 awe of the people, who could not be persuaded but it was a 
 spirit, and a very powerful spirit, keeping watch over me. 
 A Bakalai chief who is to hunt with me brought me in a 
 female gorilla which he had killed in the woods. This 
 female was not quite full-grown. It measured three feet 
 eleven inches. Its canine teeth had not attained their full 
 size. The face was intensely black, as were also the hands 
 and feet. The hair on the crown was reddish, but not so 
 
218 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Ouaf. XVII. 
 
 deep a colour as in some older females I have seen. On the 
 body the hair was a blackish-red, and no longer on the arms 
 than on the rest of the body. The breast was covered only 
 with very light down. 
 
 On the 2nd of April I saw another trial by ordeal per- 
 formed. A little boy, son to Aquailai, the doctor who had 
 driven the witch from the main street of Goumbi, reported 
 that one of Quengueza's men had damaged a Bakalai canoe. 
 The owner required to be paid for the injury. The Goumbi 
 man denied the act, and asked for trial. An Ashira doctor 
 was called in, who said that the only way to make the truth 
 appear was by the trial of the ring boiled in oil. Hereupon 
 the Bakalai and the Goumbi men gathered together, and the 
 trial was at once made. 
 
 The Ashira doctor set three little billets of bar-wood in 
 the ground with their ends together, then piled some smaller 
 pieces between, till all were laid as high as the three pieces. 
 A native pot half-full of palm-oil was set upon the wood, 
 and the oil was set on tire. When it burned up brightly a 
 brass ring from the doctor's hand was cast into the pot ; the 
 doctor stood by with a little va^^e full of grass soaked in 
 water, of which he threw in now and then some bits. This 
 made the oil blaze up afresh. At last all was burned out, 
 and now came the trial. The accuser, the little boy, wa.s 
 required to take the ring out of the pot. He hesitated, but 
 was pushed on by his father. The people cried out, " Let 
 us see if he lied or told truth." 
 
 Finally he put his hand in, seized the red-hot ring, but 
 quickly dropped it, having severely burnt his fingers. At 
 this there was a shout, " He lied ! he lied ! " and the Goumbi 
 man was declared innocent. 
 
 I ventured to suggest that he also would burn his fingers 
 if he touched the ring; but nobody seemed to consider tliis 
 view. I judge that where an accuser has to substantiate a 
 charge in this way information is not easily to be got. 
 
Chap. XVIL TH£; KOOLOO-KAMBA. 219 
 
 CHAPTEE XVIII. 
 
 I discover a new ape — The kooloo-kamba — Gouamba, or craving for meat — 
 Troubltsome flies — Malaouen --Numerous traces of gorilla — Killing a 
 large male gorilla — Start for the ebony country — Tlio ebony tree — 
 Severe attack of fever — Take 150 grains of quinine in three days — 
 Kindness of women during my illness — Death of a young wizard 
 — Killing a nshiego-mbouve — Capture of a young nsliiego-mbouv^^ 
 His face is white — His mother is black — The young nshiego-mbouve 
 becomes tame — He turns darker as he grows older — Privileges of 
 women — The idol said to have walked and talked. 
 
 On the 6tli we set off for a two or three days' hunt. Wo 
 went up-river for about ten miles, and then struck inland to 
 a deserted Bakalai village, where we made our camp. When 
 that was arranged we went out to look for gorilla-tracks. It 
 was too late to hunt ; but Querlaouen, my chief hunter, 
 wanted to be ready for the morrow. I saw nothing; but 
 Malaouen, another hunter^ came in after dark, and said he 
 had heard the cry of the kooloo, and knew where to find it 
 in the morning. I myself on returning to the camp had 
 heard this cry, but did not know what animal had tittered it. 
 
 Of course I asked what this kooloo was, and received for 
 answer a circumstantial description of the animal, which 
 threw me into the greatest excitement ; for I saw that this 
 was most certainly a new species of ape, of which I had not 
 even heard as j'et. It was called kooloo-kamba, by the Goumbi 
 people, from its noise or call, " kooloo," and the Commi word 
 kamba, which means " speak." The Bakalai call it simply 
 " koola." 
 
 The kooloo was said to be very rare here, and there was 
 a chance only that we should find that one whose call had 
 been heard. 
 
 At the earliest streak of dawn I had my men up. We had 
 fixed our guns the night before. All was ready, and we set 
 out in two parties. My party had been walking through 
 the forest about an hour, when suddenly I stepped into a 
 file of bashikouay ants, whose fierce bites nearly made me 
 scream. 
 
 We had hardly got clear of the bashikouays when my ears 
 
220 EQUATOllIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVIII ■ 
 
 were saluted by the singular cry of the ape I was after. 
 " Koola-kooloo, koola-kooloo," it said several times. Gambo 
 and Malaouen alone were with me. Gambo and I raised our 
 eyes, and saw, high up in a tree-branch, a large ape. We 
 both fired at once, and the next moment the poor beast fell 
 with a heavy crash to the ground. I rushed up, anxious to 
 see if, indeed, I had a new animal. I saw in a moment that 
 it was neither a nshiego-mbouve, nor a chimpanzee, nor a 
 gorilla. Again I had a happy day — marked for ever with 
 red ink in my calendar. 
 
 We at once disembowelled the animal, which was a male. 
 I found in its intestines only vegetable matter and re- 
 mains. The skin and skeleton were taken into camp, where 
 I cured the former with arsenic sufficiently to take it into 
 Obindji. 
 
 The animal was a full-grown male, four feet three inches 
 high. It was less powerfully built than the male gorilla, 
 but as powerful as either the chimpanzee or nshiego-mbouve. 
 When it was brought into Obindji, all the people and even 
 Quengueza, at once exclaimed, " That is a kooloo-kamba." 
 
 The kooloo-kamba has for distinctive marks a very round 
 head ; whiskers running quite round the face and below the 
 chin; the face is round; the cheek-bones prominent; the 
 cheeks sunken ; the jaws not very prominent— less so than 
 in any of the apes. The hair is black; long on the arm, 
 which was, however, partly bare. 
 
 Of its habits these people could tell me nothing, except 
 that farther interior it was found more frequently, and that 
 it was, like the gorilla, very shy and hard of approach. 
 
 Meat was now becoming scarce. Half a boar given me by 
 Querlaouen was welcome to me, as indeed it was to Quengueza, 
 whom we found almost crying with an affection which is 
 common in Africa, and is called gouamha — but for which we, 
 happily, have no name. Gouamha is the inordinate longing 
 and craving of exhausted nature for meat. The vegetable 
 diet here is not of a satisfying nature at best. Just now all 
 provisions were scarce in Obindji, and even Quengueza had 
 not- tasted meat for four days. He was exhausted, nervous, 
 and, though a stout old fellow, really whimpering. This 
 

 THE KOOLOO-KAMBA. 
 
tii EQVATOnUL APHICA. Chap. XVlll. 
 
 was (jouamba, of wliicli I havo suifored often enough in these 
 wilds to vouch that it is a real and frightful torture. 
 
 I came into the village just when the ceremonial dance was 
 about to be performed which precedes the division of elephant 
 meat. This is a thankoffering to two spirits, Mondo and 
 Olomho, who seem to have an influence on the hunt. An 
 Ashira doctor was loading in the ceremonies. I find here, as 
 I have heard it said also in more civilized countries, that the 
 prophet gains in repute the farther he travels from home. 
 In Goumbi a Bakalai doctor was held in high esteem. In 
 Biagano a Goumbi doctor was chief of all the "prophets. 
 Here, among the Bakalai, only an Ashira doctor was thought 
 worthy. So it goes. 
 
 They had three pieces, cut from the hind-quarters of the 
 elephants, boiling in large pots. Around these they danced, 
 while the Ashira doctor chanted praises and petitions to the 
 spirits. A piece was cut off and sent into the woods to 
 appease the hunger of these deities (or more likely of their 
 representatives, the leopards), and then the rest was eaten. 
 Next came the division of the great heaps of uncooked meat. 
 The town, the town's friends, the hunters, the hunter's 
 friends, and their friends, all came and got shares. I received 
 about fifty pounds for myself; I was glad to have it; for 
 meat was scarce, and I had the ajjpetite of a hunter. 
 
 The killing of an elephant is an event among the Bakalai 
 here, not only for the meat, but because the ivory is sent 
 down to the coast, and procures for them the cloth, powder, 
 guns, trinkets, etc. 
 
 Hunting in the rear of the village, on the 16th, I shot a 
 curious bird, the Aleilic castanea — a new species. It is said 
 by the natives to have a devil in it — for what reason I could 
 not discover ; probably for none. But its habit makes it 
 singular. They fly in a small flock, and follow industriously 
 the bashikouay ants in their marches about the country. 
 The bird is insectivorous ; and when the bashikouay army 
 routs before it the frightened grasshoppers and beetles, the 
 bird, like a regular camp-follower, pounces on the prey and 
 carries it off. I think it does not eat the bashikouay. 
 
 Snakes are quite abundant in these woods. As we push 
 
Chap. XVm. A NAIiROW ESCAPE. 223 
 
 through the bush we often see some groat anaconda hanging 
 from a projecting bough, waiting its prey. The other day I 
 shot a little bird which, in its fall, lodged among some vines. 
 I was anxious to get it, and began to climb up after it. Just 
 as I was reaching out for my bird, a snake, belonging to one 
 of the most venomous kinds found in this part of Africa, 
 stuck out his head at me from the thick vine foliage. I was 
 very much startled, and drojJiaed down to the ground with- 
 out loss of time. 
 
 Fortunately I had only to drop a few feet. It was one of 
 the narrowest escapes I had in Africa — for there is no cure 
 for this serpent's bite, and I could literally feel its breath 
 against my face before I saw it. 
 
 Singulaidy few accidents happen from snake-bites among 
 the natives. They wander everywhere barefooted, and seem 
 to have no dread till they see a snake, when they scamper off 
 fast enough if it is very venomous. The python they kill 
 because they like its meat, which, they say, makes a delicious 
 soup. 
 
 When, as here, I am hunting regularly, I get up at five in 
 the morning. Monguilomba then makes me a strong cup of 
 coffee, which is served by Makondai. This drunk, daylight 
 shows itself; I start for the bush and hunt until ten, which 
 is my breakfast-hour. After breakfast I stuff the birds shot 
 in the morning, and rest till thiee. Then out again into the 
 bush till six, which is sunset and dark here, when I get back 
 and find my dinner ready, with Makondai to wait on me. 
 After dinner bird-stuffing goes on again, till all the prizes of 
 the day are secure. That done, I go among the people and 
 hear them tnVs. until it is time to go to sleep. 
 
 This is the average day. Of course, when we go out on 
 great hunts, all orderly arrangements arc broken up; and 
 I have often to sit up half or all the night to prepare 
 my prizes, which will not keep till next day in this hot 
 climate. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 20th of April, we set out for one of our 
 great hunts, going up the river a short distance and then 
 striking into the forests. We found many open spots in 
 these woods, where the soil was sandy, and the grass was not 
 
22-1 EQUATORUL AFRICA. Chap XVIIl. 
 
 very luxuriant, growing not more than two feet tigh. The 
 sun is very oppressive in these clear spots. 
 
 We were troubled, too, on the prairie by two very savage 
 flies, called by the negroes the hoco and the ncliouna. These 
 insects attacked us with a terrible persistency which left us 
 no peace. They were very quiet bloodsuckers, and I never 
 knew of their attacks till I felt the itch which follows the 
 bite when the fly has left it. This is again followed by a 
 little painful swelling. 
 
 The next day we were out after gorillas, which we knew 
 were to be found hereabouts by the presence of a pulpy pear- 
 shaped fruit growing close to 'he ground, the tondo, of which 
 this animal is very fond. I also am very fond of the subdued 
 and grateful acid of this fruit, which the negroes eat as well 
 as the gorilla. It is curious that that which grows in the 
 sandy soil of the prairie is not fit to eat. 
 
 We found everywhere gorilla-marks, and so recent that we 
 began to think the animals must be avoiding us. This was 
 the case, I think, though I am not sure. At any rate we 
 beat the bush for two hours before, at last, we found the 
 game. Suddenly an immense gorilla advanced out of the 
 wood straight towards us, and gave vent as he came up to a 
 terrible howl of rage — as much as to say, " I am tired of 
 being pursued, and will face you." 
 
 It was a lone male — the kind who are always most fero- 
 cious ; and this fellow made the woods ring with his roar. 
 
 He was about twenty yards off when we first saw him. 
 We at once gathered together, and I was about to take aim 
 and bring him down where he stood, when Malaouen stopped 
 me, saying, in a whisper, " Not time yet." 
 
 We stood therefore in silence, guns in hand. The gorilla 
 looked at us for a minute or so out of his evil gray eyes, then 
 beat his breast with his gigantic arms, gave another howl of 
 defiance, and advanced upon us. 
 
 Again he stopped, now not more than fifteen yards away. 
 Still Malaouen said, " Not yet." 
 
 Then again an advance upon us. Now he was not twelve 
 yMrds off. I could see plainly the ferocious face of the mon- 
 strous ape. It was working with rage ; his huge teeth were 
 

226 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 ground against each other so that we could hear the sound ; 
 the skin of the forehead -was moved rapidly backwards and 
 forwards, and gave a truly devilish expression to the hideous 
 face ; once more he gave out a roar which seemed to shake the 
 woods like thunder, and, looking us in the eyes and beating 
 his breast, advanced again. This time he came within eight 
 yards of us before he stopped. My breath was coming short 
 with excitement as I watched the huge beast. Malaouen 
 said only " Steady ! " as he came up. 
 
 When he stopped, Malaouen said, " Now." And before he 
 could utter the roar for which he was opening his mouth, 
 three musket-balls were in his body. He fell dead almost 
 without a struggle. 
 
 " Don't fire too soon. If you do not kill him he will kill 
 you," said Malaouen to me — a piece of advice which I found 
 afterwaids was too literally true. 
 
 It was a huge old beast indeed. Its height was five feet 
 six inches. Its arms had a sjDread of seven feet two inches. 
 Its huge brawny chest measured fifty inches round. The 
 big toe or thumb of its foot measured 6f inches in circum- 
 ference. Its arm seemed only immense bunches of muscle, 
 and its legs and claw-like feet were so well fitted for grahbing 
 and holding, that I could see how easy it was for the negroes 
 to believe that this animal conceals itself in trees, and pulls 
 up with its foot any living thing — leopard, ox, or man — that 
 passes beneath. There is no doubt the gorilla could do this, 
 but that he does it I do not believe. They are ferocious, 
 mischievous, but not carnivorous. 
 
 The face of this gorilla was intensely black. The vast 
 chest, which proved his great power, was bare, and covered 
 with a parchment-like skin. The body was covered with 
 gray hair. Though there are sufficient points of diversity 
 between this animal and man, I never kill one without 
 having a sickening realization of the horrid human like- 
 ness of the beast. This was particularly the case to-day, 
 when the animal approached us in its fierce way, walking 
 on its hind legs, and facing us as few animals dare face 
 man. 
 
 On the 27th of April Quengueza and I, with about twenty 
 
Chap. XYIII. THE EBONY TMEE. 227 
 
 slaves and some hunters, started up river for the ebony 
 country, where the king wislied to cut wood, while 1 
 hunted. All the forests up here are full of precious woods. 
 Ebony is found in greatest plenty at the top of the hills 
 which line, at some distance, the river-course. Bar-wood is 
 found everywhere, and in great abundance. The natives 
 have not yet cut much of it. The india-rubber vine is found 
 on all hands. There are also many other varieties of hard 
 woods, some pink, some chestnut, some yellow in colour, and 
 all susceptible of a high polish. 
 
 The ebony-tree is not found on low ground, or near the 
 river. It is met with all along the ridges and hills which 
 run here north and south. It is one of the finest and most 
 graceful trees of the African forest. Its leaves are long, 
 sharp-pointed, dark green, and hang in clusters, producing a 
 grateful shade. Its bark is smooth, and of a dark-green. 
 The trunk rises straight and clean to a considerable height — 
 often fifty or sixty feet ; then large heavy branches are sent 
 out. I have seen one of these trees which had a diameter of 
 five feet at the base. The mature ebony- tree is always found 
 hollow, and even its branches are hollow. Next the bark is 
 a white " sap wood," which is not valuable. This, in an 
 average tree, is three or four inches thick, and next to this 
 lies the ebony of commerce. The young trees are white or 
 sappy to the centre; and even when they attain a diameter 
 of nearly two feet the black part is streaked with white. 
 Trees less than three feet in diameter are not cut down. 
 
 The ebony-tree is found intermixed with otheis in the 
 forest. Generally three or four trees stand together, and 
 none others within a little distance. Thus the cutters move 
 through the woods constantly seeking trees. 
 
 As we were to stay a month, the king took some of his 
 wives with him. We pulled up the river against the strong 
 current as before. 
 
 We were bound to the town of a chief named Anguilai, 
 whom I had met at Obindji's village. The place was called 
 N'calai-Boumba, and was a considerable town, though very 
 lately built. We were nearly all day on our journey. On 
 the way we passed several villages. The ri\'er-banks all tho 
 
228 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 way up are densely wooded. We saw but one monkey and 
 a few birds the whole day. 
 
 Anguilai's town is the hottest place I had thus far been in 
 in Africa. Most of the negroes have wit enough to build on 
 the top of some hill, where they get a breeze. But this town 
 was set in a hollow, and the houses were so small ami close 
 as to be quite unendurable to me. All these Eembo Bakalai 
 are but lately come from the interior. They have been 
 induced to move to the river by Quengueza, who makes them 
 useful to hira, and they are not yet at home there. N'calai 
 Boumba was not yet a year old. The people were still 
 awkward canoe-men. 
 
 On the 29th I went down to a little village called Npopo, 
 and found the people all gone into the bush. Everything 
 was open and exposed to thieves ; chickens and goats were 
 straying about, and I wondered to see such carelessness in the 
 village. But in the centre, looking^own on everything, 
 stood the mhuiti, or idol of Npopo, a copper-eyed divinity, 
 who, I was informed, safely guarded everything. It seemed 
 absurd ; but I was assured that no one dared steal, and no 
 one did steal, with the ej'es of this mbuiti upon him. 
 
 This uncommonly useful divinity was a rudely-shaped 
 piece of ebonj' about two feet high, with a man's face, the 
 nose and eyes of copper, and the body covered with grass. 
 
 On the last day of April I was confined to my bed with 
 fever. In three days I took 150 grains of quinine and 
 two heavy doses of calomel. This was the severest attack I 
 had yet had in Africa. I suffered very much from the heat 
 in the little houses, and was glad when Quengueza had his 
 shades built on the ebony-ground and we moved thither. 
 
 While I lay sick the people came and entreated me not to 
 hunt so much and so constantly. They said, " Look at us ; 
 we hunt one day and rest two. When we hunt three days 
 we rest a week after it. But you go out every day ! " I 
 think they are right, and shall follow their rule. 
 
 I shall never forget the kindness of the women to me 
 while I was sick. Poor souls ! they are sadly abused by 
 their task-mastors ; are the merest slaves, have to do all the 
 drudgery, and take blows and ill-usage besides ; and yot at 
 
Chap. XVIII. CRUEL SUPERSTITIONS. 229 
 
 the sight, of suffering their hearts soften just as in our own 
 more civilized lands ; and here, as there, no sooner did sick- 
 ness come than these kind people came to nurse and take 
 care of me. They tried to cook nice food for me ; they sat 
 by me to fan me ; they brought more mats for mj' bed ; 
 brought me water ; got me refreshing fruits from the woods ; 
 and at night, when I waked up from a feverish dream, I used 
 to hear their voices as they sat around in the darkness, and 
 pitied me and devised ways for my cure. They thought 
 some aniemba (devil) had entered my body, and could not be 
 persuaded that I was not bewitched. 
 
 Poor Anguilai was sadly alarmed at mj' illness. He ac- 
 cused his people of wickedly bewitching me ; and one still 
 night walked up and down the village, threatening, in a loud 
 voice, to kill the sorcerers if he could only find them. 
 
 On the 5th of May I was able to walk again a little, and 
 on the 6th one of those barbarous scenes occurred in the 
 village which show how even these kind-hearted negroes are 
 incited to horrid cruelties by their devilish superstitions. 
 A little boy of ten years had been accused of sorcery. On 
 being examined, he confessed that he had " made a witch." 
 Hereupon the whole town seemed to be seized of the devil. 
 They took spears and knives, and actually cut the poor little 
 fellow to pieces. I had been walking out, and returned just 
 as the dreadful scene was over. I doubt if I could have 
 saved his life had I been on the spot. As it was, I could not 
 even make the wietched men feel shame at their bloody act. 
 'J'hey were still frantic with rage, and were not quiet for 
 some hours after. 
 
 The next day I witnessed another curious scene of super- 
 stition. One of the king's wives stood up in the open street 
 and had herself cut on the back of her hands with knives. 
 She bled very freely, and seemed to be very glad in her 
 heart at the pain inflicted on her. I asked what was the 
 reason for such conduct ; and she explained, with a smiling 
 face, that she was weakly and barren, and that now she 
 would be strong and have children. It seems to be their 
 method of letting blond. 
 
 On the 8th we started for the ebony-woods. Our new 
 
230 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Ohap. XVIII. 
 
 location was about nine miles from the river, on the side 
 of a long hill, and close by where a cool sparkling rivulet 
 leaped from rock to rock down into the plain, making most 
 pleasant music for me as I lay, weak and sick, in camp. 
 Five huge ebony-trees lifted their crowned heads together 
 in a little knot just above us. All around were pleasant and 
 shady woods. It was a very pleasant camp, but proved to 
 have one drawback : we nearly starved to death. On the 
 11th we began to suffer from gouamba, and got no meat. So 
 I went out myself and shot several birds. 
 
 At last I could stand the gouamba, or craving for animal 
 food, no longer, and determined to make up a regular hunting- 
 party, and stay out till we got something to eat. Malaouen 
 told me that if we went off about twenty miles we should 
 come to a better game country ; and so we started in the 
 direction he pointed out, where, he thought, we should also 
 find the gorilla, or perhaps the nshiego-mbouve. 
 
 The men were covered with greegrees and fetiches, and 
 had out their hands fur luck. Anguilai told me that his ogana 
 (idol) had told him that to-morrow the heart of otanga (the 
 white man) would be glad, for we should kill game. 
 
 For some hours after we started we saw nothing but old 
 tracks of different wild beasts, and I began to think that 
 Anguilai's ogana had been too sanguine. Finally, towards 
 twelve o'clock, when we were crossing a kind of high table- 
 land, we heard the cry of a joung animal, which we all 
 recognised to be a nshiego-mbouve. Then all my troubles 
 at once went away out of ray mind, and I no longer felt 
 either sick or hungry. 
 
 We crawled through the bush as silently as possible, still 
 hearing the baby-like cry. At last, coming out into a little 
 cleared space, we saw something running along the ground 
 towards the spot where we stood concealed. When it came 
 nearer we saw it was a female nshiego-mbouve, running 
 on all-fours, with a young one clinging to her breasts. She 
 was eagerly eating some berries, and with one arm supported 
 her little one. 
 
 Querlaouen, who had the fairest chance, fired, and brought 
 her down. She dropped without a struggle. The poor little 
 
Ohap. XVIII. A WHITE-FACED NSHIEGO. 231 
 
 one cried " Hew ! hew ! hew ! " and clung to the dead body, 
 sucking the breasts, burying its head there in its alarm at 
 the report of the gun. 
 
 We hurried up in great glee to secure our capture. I 
 cannot tell my surprise when I saw that the nshiego baby's 
 face was pure white — very white indeed— pallid, but as white 
 as a white child's. 
 
 I looked at the mother, but found her black as soot in 
 the face. The little one was about a foot in height. One 
 of the men threw a cloth over its head and secured it till we 
 could make it fast with a rope ; for, though it was quite 
 young, it could walk. The old one was of the bald-headed 
 kind, of which I had secured the first known specimen some 
 months before. 
 
 I immediately ordered a return to the camp, which we 
 reached towards evening. The little nshiego had been all 
 this time separated from its dead mother, and now, when it 
 was put near her body, a most touching scene ensued. The 
 little fellow ran instantly to her, but, touching her on the 
 face and breast, saw evidently that some great change had 
 happened. For a few minutes he caressed her, as though 
 trying to coax her back to life. Then he seemed to lose 
 all hope. His little ej'es became very sad, and he broke out 
 in a long plaintive wail, " Ooee ! ooee ! ooee ! '' which made 
 my heart ache for him. He looked quite forlorn, and as 
 though he really felt his forsaken lot. The whole camp 
 was touched at his sorrows, and the women were especially 
 moved. 
 
 All this time I stood wonderingly staring at the white face 
 of the creature. It was really marvellous and quite incom- 
 prehensible ; and a more strange and weird-looking animal I 
 never saw. 
 
 While I stood there, up came two of my hunters and 
 began to laugh at me. " Look, Chelly ! " said they, calling 
 me by the name I was known by among them, " look at 
 your friend. Eveiy time we kill gorilla, you tell us, ' Look 
 at your black friend ! ' Now, you see, look at your white 
 friend !" Then came a roar at what they thought a tremen- 
 dously good joke. 
 
232 EQUATORIAL AFIIICA. Chap. XVIII 
 
 " Look ! lie has got straight hair, just as you have. See 
 white face of your cousin from the bush? He is nearer to 
 you than gorilla is to us." 
 
 And another roar. 
 
 " Gorilla has not got woolly hair like we have. This one 
 has straight hair, like you." 
 
 " Yes," said I ; " but when he gets old his face is black ; 
 and do not you see his nose how flat it is, like yours ? " 
 
 Whereat there was a louder laugh than before. For, so 
 long as he can laugh, the negro cares little against whom the 
 joke goes. 
 
 I may as well add here some particulars of the little fellow 
 who excited all this surprise and merriment. He lived five 
 months, and became as tame and docile as a cat. I called 
 him Tommy, to which name he soon began to answer. 
 
 In three days after his capture he was quite tame. He 
 then ate biscuits out of my hand; ate boiled rice and 
 roasted plantain ; and drank the milk of a goat. Two weeks 
 after his capture he was perfectly tamed, and no longer 
 required to be tied up. He ran about the camp, and wljen 
 we went back to Obindji's village, found his way about 
 everywhere and into the huts just as though he had been 
 raised there. 
 
 He had a great affection for me, and used constantly to 
 follow me about. When I sat down, he was not content till 
 he had climbed upon me and hid his head in my breast. He 
 was extremely fond of being petted and fondled, and would 
 sit by the hour while anyone stroked his head or back. 
 
 He soon began to be a very great thief. When the people 
 left their huts he would steal in and make off with their 
 plantains or fish. He watched very carefully till all had left 
 a house, and it was difSoult to catch him in the act. I 
 flogged him several times, and, indeed, brought him to the 
 conviction that it was wrong to steal ; but he could never 
 resist the temptation. 
 
 From me he stole constantly. He soon found out that my 
 hut was better furnished with ripe bananas and other fruit 
 than any others ; and also ho discovered that the best time to 
 steal from me was when I was asleep in the morning. At 
 
Chap. XVm, ■' TOillJl/r." 233 
 
 that time he used to crawl iu on his tiptoes, move slyly 
 towards my bed, look at my closed eyes, and, if he saw no 
 movement, with an air of great relief go up and pluck 
 several plantains. If I stirred in the least he was off like a 
 flash, and would presently re-enter for another inspection. If 
 my eyes were open when he came in on such a jjredatory 
 trip, he at once came up to me with an honest face, and 
 climbed up and caressed me. But I could easily detect an 
 occasional wistful glance towards the bunch of plantains. 
 
 My hut had no door, but was closed with a mat, and it 
 was very funny to see Tommy gently raising one corner of 
 this mat to see if I was asleep. Sometimes I counterfeited 
 sleep, and then stirred just as he was in the act of taking off 
 his prize. Then he would drop everything, and make oif in 
 the utmost consternation. 
 
 He knew the hours of our meals, and was present at as 
 many of them as possible ; that is, he woiild go from my break- 
 fast to lialf-a-dozen others, and beg something at each. But 
 he never missed my breakfast and dinner, knowing by 
 experience that ho fared best there. I had a kind of rude 
 table made, on which my meals were served in the open part 
 of my house. This was too high for Tommy to see the 
 dishes ; so he used to come in before I sat down, when all was 
 ready, and climb up on the pole which supported the roof. 
 From this perch he attentively surveyed every dish on the 
 table, and, having determined what to have, ho would 
 descend and sit down at my side. 
 
 If I did not immediately pay attention to him he began to 
 howl " Hew ! hew ! hew I " louder and louder, till for peace 
 sake his wants were satistied. Of course I could not tell 
 what he had chosen for dinner of my different dishes, and 
 would offer him first one, and then another, till the right one 
 came. If he received what he did not want, he threw it 
 down on the ground with a little shriek of anger and a stamp 
 of his foot ; and this was repeated till he was served to his 
 liking. In short, he behaved very much like a badly-spoiled 
 
 child? 
 
 If I pleased him quickly, ho thanked me by a kind of 
 gentle murmur, like "Hoohoo!"and would hold out his hand 
 
231 EQUATORIAL AFRtCA. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 to shake mine. He was very fond of boiled meat — particu- 
 larly boiled fish, and was constantly picking bones he col- 
 lected about the town. He wanted always to taste of my 
 coffee, and when Makondai brought it, would beg of me, 
 in the most serious manner, for some, and if given without 
 sugar he would not drink it. 
 
 I made him a little pillow to sleep on, and this he was 
 very fond of. When he was once accustomed to it he never 
 parted from it more, but dragged it after him wherever he 
 went. If by any chance it was lost, the whole camp knew 
 it by his howls; and sometimes I had to send people to 
 look for it when he had mislaid it on some forest excur- 
 sion, so that he might stop his noise. He slept on it always, 
 coiled up into a little heap, and only relinquished it when I 
 gave him permission to accompany me into the woods. 
 
 As he became more and more used to our ways, he grew 
 more impatient of contradiction, and more fond of being 
 caressed ; and whenever he was thwarted he howled in his 
 disagreeable way. As the dry season came on it became 
 colder, and Tommy began to wish for company when he 
 slept, to keep him warm. The negroes would not have him 
 for a companion, for he was for them too much like one of 
 themselves. I would not give him room near me. So poor 
 Tommy was reduced to misery, as he seemed to think. But 
 soon I found that he waited till everybody was fast asleep at 
 night, and then crawled in softly next some of his black 
 friends, and slept there till earliest dawn. Then he would up 
 and away undiscovered. Several times he was caught and 
 beaten, but he always tried it again. 
 
 He showed an extraordinary fondness for strong drink. 
 Whenever a negro had palm-wine Tommy was sure to know 
 it. He had a decided taste for Scotch ale, of which I had a 
 few bottles, and even begged for brandy. Indeed, his last 
 exploit was with a brandy-bottle, which, on going out, I had 
 carelessly left on my chest. The little rascal stole in, and 
 seeing it, and being unable to get out the cork, in some way 
 broke it. When I returned, after some hours' absence, I 
 found my precious bottle — it was the last, and to the traveller 
 in this part of Africa, brandy is as indispensable as quinine 
 
Cbap. XVIIt. DEATH OF TOMMY. 235 
 
 — broken in pieces, and Master Tommy coiled up on the 
 floor by the side of the fragments in a state of maudlin 
 drunkenness. When he saw me, he got up and tried to 
 stagger up to me, but his legs tottered, and he fell down 
 several times. His eyes had a glare of human drunkenness ; 
 his arms were extended in vain attempts to reach me ; his 
 voice came thick ; in fact, he looked disgustingly and yet 
 comically human. It was the maudlin and sentimental htage 
 of human drunkenness very well represented. I gave him 
 a severe thrashing, which served to sober the little toper 
 somewhat ; but nothing could cure him of his love for 
 liquor. 
 
 He had a great deal of intelligence ; and if I had had 
 leisure I think I might have trained him to some kind of 
 good behaviour, though I desjDaired of his thieving disposi- 
 tion. He lived so long, and was growing so accustomed to 
 civilized life, that I began to have great hopes of being able 
 to carry him alive to America. He delighted to eat with the 
 negroes ; while they were seated round the dish he used to 
 dip his hands into it at the same time they did. As the dry 
 season advanced, and the nights grew cooler, he became 
 exceedingly fond of sitting near the fire with the men in the 
 evening ; and Master Tommy seemed then to enjoy himself 
 wonderfully, and quite as much as any human being. From 
 time to time he looked up into the faces of those round him, 
 as if to say, " Do not drive me away ! " and the very white 
 colour of his face contrasted singularly with the black heads 
 around him. His eye was intelligent, and when left to him- 
 self his whole countenance had a look of sadness, sometimes 
 painful to behold. Many times I tried to penetrate and read 
 the inward thoughts of this wonderful little creature, which 
 not only excited my wonder, but that of the natives. Tommy 
 had a reputation quite as great as mine throughout the 
 country. But alas ! poor Tommy. One morning he refused 
 his food, seemed dowmcast, and was very anxious to be petted 
 and held in the arms. I got all kinds of forest-berries for 
 him, but he refused all. He did not seem to suffer, but ate 
 nothing ; and next day, without a struggle, died. Poor 
 fellow ! I was very sorry, for he had grown to be quite a 
 
236 - EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 pet companion for me ; and even the negroes, tliougli he had 
 given them great trouble, were sorry at his death. 
 
 The mother of Thomas was an adult feniiJe, aged, to judge 
 by her teeth, which were much vrorn ; but quite black in the 
 face and hands. Eyebrows thin, and from half to three- 
 quarters of an inch long. Eyelids thin and short. Upper 
 and lower lips and chin sparsely covered with short gray 
 hairs. Neck hairy. Thin hair on the cheeks, beginning at 
 the temples parallel with the upper part of the ear. Ears 
 large. The head entirely bald down to a line drawn from 
 ■ the middle part of the ears behind ; this bald skin was quite 
 black. On the back fine black hair. Eump partly bare, and 
 where bare the skin was quite loldte. Hair on the chest 
 grayish-black and thin, growing thicker on the abdomen, and 
 grayer on the legs. Height 3 feet 9 inches. This female 
 differed very decidedly from the female of the gorilla or 
 chimpanzee. 
 
 Tommy turned darker as he grew older, and at his death 
 was j'ellow rather than white. 
 
 My men were now getting short of every kind of provisions, 
 and I was obliged to purchase for them from the villages. 
 The chief articles brought were some loaves of ndica, a kind 
 of bread made of the seeds of the wild mango-tree pounded 
 and dried. It does not taste unpleasantly, but I could not 
 live on it. There was also a clear yellow oil, which, when 
 cool, had the colour and consistency of scorched lard, and was 
 called agali njavi (njavi oil). It is made with infinite labour, 
 from the seeds of a certain tree which is abundant here, and 
 is one of the finest ornaments of these forests. They boil the 
 seed, then mash it on a hoUowed-out board, and then squeeze 
 out the not very abundant oil with their hands. It makes a 
 nice-looking oil, which is used to cook meat in ; and thua 
 prepared, meat does not taste badly. 
 
 They also mix the oil with a kind of odoriferous powder 
 called yomho, and this mixture is then applied in great quan- 
 tities upon their wool. They think it gives out a pleasant 
 fragrance, but in reality it makes an abominable stench. 
 
 But another use of the oil is really sensible. "When the 
 men have been for some time out in inclement weather, or 
 
Chap. XVIII. A HUGE GORILLA. 237 
 
 are dustj' or parched with working in the sun, their skin 
 becomes dried up, cracked, and reddish iu colour. Then they 
 come home, wash themselves clean, and smear themselves all 
 over with this soft oil. The dried-up skin becomes in a little 
 time smooth, and of a shiny, healthy black again. Palm-oil 
 is used elsewhere for this purpose ; but the palm-oil tree is 
 very scarce here, and the little of the oil they have is brought 
 from the Ashira country to the east, which is now my 
 Promised Land, towards which I daily lift longing eyes. 
 
 On the 1 8th, as we were hunting, I heard in the far 
 distance what I at first took to be muttering thunder, but 
 presently perceived the noise to be caused by a male gorilla 
 which was roaring to its female ; who, after a while, could 
 be heard answering with a weaker roar. The forest resounded 
 with the tremendous voice of this animal. The echoes swelled 
 and died away from hill to hill, until the whole forest was full 
 of the din. 
 
 Unluckily I had gone out with my smallest gun loaded 
 with shot to shoot birds. I put in a ball insteail of the shot, 
 and determined to follow up the animids. Bj^-and-by I could 
 hear the deep drum-like sound which the mule gorilla causes 
 by beating his breast with his huge fists. The jungle was 
 quite thick, and our advance slow. Poor Makondai was in a 
 great fright as we heard the animal, which kept up its 
 terrible roaring, waiting at short intervals to hear the replies 
 of its female. 
 
 Presently I heard trees cracking, and saw through the 
 woods how every few minutes a sapling was swung about 
 and then broken off. While I was watching these actions I 
 Nuppose the animal became aware of the presence of danger, 
 for presently a dead silence followed on the loud roars ; and 
 when, gun in hand, I broke through the wood, my gorilla 
 was gor;e. 
 
 I am sure that I must have heard this gorilla's roar three 
 miles off, and the noise of beating his breast at least a milo 
 No words can describe the thunderous noise which it produces. 
 
 In examining the wood where these gorillas were moving 
 and feeding, I learned, for the first time, the cause of the 
 great wear there is on the canine teeth of this animal, and 
 17 
 
238 EQVATOFilAL AFRICA. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 espeiially of the male, which I could iifit licforo account for, 
 and also saw some surpvising evidences of their strength. 
 Several trues, each of wliich was from four 1o six inches in 
 diameter, had been broken down by these animals; audi 
 found that they had bitten into the heart of these trees and 
 eaten out the pith. Now the wood is hard, and by the pecu- 
 liar form of the gnawing I saw at once that it was by this 
 work that the very singular abrasion of the canines is 
 caused. 
 
 The Rembo is s ill deep and rapid as far as we ascended, 
 and the land becomes more mountainous, the hills approach- 
 ing nearer and nearer to the banks of i\vi river. When we 
 returned, the town was tilled with joy at our success on the 
 hunt. Quengueza made himself sick carousing on four hams 
 which I gave him from my share of some wild J>igs we had ■ 
 shot. The old fellow has brought all the ebony down — a 
 heavy job, as the pieces weighed from twenty to sixty 
 pounds, and had to be carried on men's shoulders over a very 
 rough and woody country. 
 
 On the 30th we started with one hundred men up the 
 Ofuuhou, the river which joins the Eembo, just above 
 Obindji, for a Bikalai town cilled Njali-Coudie, the chief of 
 which was a friend of Quengueza's, who had sent to promise 
 me some gorilla-hunts if I would come to see him. 
 
 Obindji's town was nearly at slarvation-point. Tiio poor 
 fellows had been very generous to us while they had food to 
 give ; but now was the time of general scarcity, when the 
 la^t crop was eaten up, and the coming crop was not j'et 
 ready. They were actually living on the poor roots they 
 could gather in the woods. In Mbango's town they were a 
 little better off; but, even hero, our advent soon created a 
 famine. The staples of tbis country are plantains and 
 manioc. New plantains, even if plucked green, will soon 
 ripen and rot. They do not know how to dry and preserve 
 them. Manioc may be dried, and thus made to last two 
 months at farthest ; but long before that it is poor eating. 
 Of course, there are periods every year when these 23erishable 
 provisions are eaten up. 
 
 Mbango had been informed of our approach, and had built 
 
Chap. XVIII. PMVILEGES OF WOMEN. 239 
 
 for me a very neat, commodious bark house, witli a clay floor 
 pounded hard, an(\ all very clean and comfortable. The 
 village itself is one of the neatest I have seen among the 
 Bakalai. When I had eaten my dinner, the people came in 
 crowds to see me. My hair was, as usual, the most singular 
 part of my person to them. A considerable number of female 
 strangers were in the town to celebrate the feast of Njambai, 
 one of their spirits; and these could not look at me or 
 wonder at my appearance enough. 
 
 There was such a crowd, indeed, that next day food be<j;an 
 to grow scarce, and I had to send Makondai over, with thirty 
 men and some articles of barter to buy some plantains. In buy- 
 ing food, beals are the bt-st currency. The women cultivate 
 the ground and sell the surplus products, and thej' prefer 
 beads above everything else. The women in all this country 
 seem to have a good deal of privilege in this way. They are 
 expected to feed their husbands ; and Quengueza frequently 
 tells his wives to feed him well and take good care of him, 
 because he treats them well. But what is left or not needed 
 of the fruits thus raised the men have no right to. The 
 women sell and keep for themselves the artiole.s received. 
 Makondai returned next day with forty-five bunches of 
 plantains and two fowls — a very good supply for the time. 
 
 Meantime the feast went on, and gave me a sleepless night, 
 as no African feast or ceremony is complete without shouting, 
 singing, drumming, and dancing, and playing on such a 
 harp as is shown in the picture on p. 297. Mbango, it appears, 
 is the head or chief of his clan or family, which includes half- 
 a-dozen towns within thirty miles around. As chief, Mbango 
 keeps the idol of the clan, and all come hither at regular 
 periods to sing songs of invocation to it. It is a female 
 figure, of wood, nearly life-size, and with cloven feet like 
 those of a deer. Her eyes were of copper ; one cheek was 
 painted red, and the other yellow. About her neck hung a 
 necklace of tigers' teeth. She is said to have great power, 
 and the people believe that on certain occasions she nods her 
 head. She is said to talk frequently— as might, indeed, be 
 expected. She is very highly venerated by the people. 
 
 On the 30th and 31st, however, there was a dead silence 
 
240 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XVIII. 
 
 and a great darkness. No light was allowed but my own. 
 The mbuiti (idol) was set out in the middle of the street, and 
 the people stood all around her. She is said to have bowed, 
 walked about, and spoken to some one, expressing her pleasure 
 at two gazelles which had been oflfcred her the night before. 
 She ate some of the meat — so I was assured— and left the 
 rest for the people. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Njambai — Worship of Njarabai by women only — I get a peep inside the 
 house of Njambai — Gieat wrath of the women — I am in a perilous 
 position -Mbango and Quengueza take my part — Payiiig a fine— 
 Gorilla hunting — Man killed by a gorilla — His gim bent— Gambo — 
 The ibolai and igoogouai flies — The iboco and rjchouna flies — Great 
 number of parrots — The eloway wasp — Superstition in regard to 
 ditferent animals as food. 
 
 0>f the 2nd (June) the women began their peculiar worship 
 of Njambai, which, it seems, is their good spirit ; and it is 
 remarkable that all the Bakalai clans, and all the females of 
 tribes 1 have met during my journeys, worship or venerate a 
 spirit with this same name. 
 
 This worship of the women is a kind of mystery — no men 
 being admitted to the ceremonies, which are carried on in a 
 house very carefully closed. This house was covered with 
 dry palm and banana leaves, and had not even a door open to 
 the street. To make all close it was set against two other 
 houses, and the entrance was through one of these. Quen- 
 gueza and Mbango warned me not to go near this place, as 
 not even they were permitted so much as to take a look. All 
 the women of the village painted their faces and bodies, beat 
 drums, marched about the town, and from time to time 
 entered the idol-house, v^^here they danced all one night, and 
 made a more outrageous noise than even the men had made 
 before. They also presented several antelop)es to the goddess, 
 and, on the 4th, all but a few went off into the woods to sing 
 to Njambai. 
 
 I noticed that half-a-dozen remained, and in the course of 
 
Chap. XIX. WOMEN AND TBEIR WORSHIP. 241 
 
 the morning entered the Njambai-house, where they stayed 
 in great silence. Now my curiosity, which had been greatly 
 excited to know what took place in this secret worship, 
 finally overcame me. I determined to see. Walking several 
 times up and down the street past the house to allay sus- 
 picion, I at last suddenly pushed aside some of the leaves, 
 and stuck my head through the wall. For a moment I could 
 distinguish nothing in the darkness. Then I beheld three 
 perfectly naked old hags sitting on the clay floor, with an 
 immense bundle of greogreea before them, which they seemed 
 to be silently adoring. 
 
 When they saw me they at once set up a hideous howl of 
 rage, and rushed out to call their companions from the bush. 
 In a few minutes these came running in, crjnng and lament- 
 ing ; rushing towards me with gestures of anger, and 
 threatening me for my offence. I quicklj^ reached my house, 
 and, seizing my gun in one hand and a revolver in the 
 other, told them I would shoot the first one that came inside 
 my door. The house was surrounded by about three 
 hundred infuriated women, every one shouting out curses at 
 me ; but the sight of my revolver kept them back. They 
 adjourned presently for the Njambai-house, and from there 
 sent a deputation tn ihs men, who were to inform me that I 
 must pay for the " palaver " I had made. 
 
 This I peremptorily refused to do ; telling Quengueza and 
 Mbango that I was their stranger, and must be allowed to do 
 as I pleased, as their rules were nothing to me, who was a 
 white man and did not believe in their idols. In truth, if I 
 had once paid for such a transgression as this, there would 
 have been an end of all travelling for me, as I often broke 
 through their absurd rules without knowing it, and my only 
 course was to declare mj'self irresponsible. 
 
 However, the women would not give up, but threatened 
 vengeance not only on me, but on all the men of the town; 
 and as I as positively refused fo pay anything, it was at last, 
 to my great surprise, determined by Mbango and his male 
 subjects that they would make up from their own possessions 
 such a sacrifice as the women demanded of me. Accordingly 
 Mbango contributed ten fathoms of native cloth, and the 
 
242 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. XIX. 
 
 men came one by one and put their offerings on the ground 
 — some plates, some knives, some mugs, some beads, some 
 mats, and various other articles. Mbango came again, and 
 asked if I, too, would not contribute something ; but I 
 refused. In fact, I dared not set such a precedent. So when 
 all had given what they could, the whole amount was taken 
 to the ireful women, to whom Mbango said that I was his and 
 his men's guest, and that they could not ask me to pay in 
 such a matter, therefore they p^iil the demand themselves. 
 With this the women were satisfied, and there the quarrel 
 ended. Of course I could not make any further investiga- 
 tions into their mysteries. The Njambai feast lasts about 
 two weeks. I could learn very little about the spirit which 
 they call by this name. Their own ideas are qnite vague. 
 They know only that it protects the women against their 
 male enemies, avenges their wrongs, and serves them in 
 various ways if they please it. 
 
 On the 7th we went on a gorilla hunt. I gave powder to 
 the whole party. Six were to go off in one direction for 
 gazelles and whatever luck might send them ; and six others, 
 of whom I was one, were to hunt for gorillas. We set ofi 
 towards a dark valley, where Gambo, Igoumba's son, said we 
 should find our prey. The gorilla chooses the darkest, 
 gloomiest forests for its home, and is found on the edges of 
 the clearings only when in search of plantains, or sugar-cane, 
 or piine-appile. Often they choose for their peculiar haunt a 
 wood so dark that, even at midday, one can scarce see ten 
 yards. This makes it the more necessary to wait till the 
 monstrous beast approaches near before shooting, in order that 
 the first shot may be fatal. It does not often let the hunter 
 reload. 
 
 Our little party separated, as is the custom, to stalk the 
 wood in various directions. Gambo and I kept together. One 
 brave fellow went off alone in a direction where he thought he 
 could find a gorilla. The other three took another course. 
 We had been about an Lour separated when Gambo and I 
 heard a gun fired but a little way fiom us, and presently 
 another. We were already on our way to the spot where we 
 hoped to see a gorilla slain, when the forest began to resound 
 
244 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIX. 
 
 witli the most terrific roars. Gambo seized my arms in great 
 agitation, and we hurried on, both filled with a dreadful and 
 sicl;ening alarm. We had not gone far when our worst fears 
 were realised. The poor brave fellow who had gone off alone 
 was lying on the ground in a pool of his own blood, and 1 
 thoiight, at first, quite dead. His bowels were protruding 
 through the lacerated abdomen. Beside him lay his gun. 
 The stock was broken, and the barrel was bent and flattened. 
 It bore plainly the marks of the gorilla's teeth. 
 
 We picked him up, and I dressed his wounds as well as 1 
 could with rags torn fjom my clothes. When I had given 
 him a little brandy to drink he came to himself, and was able, 
 but with great difficulty, to speak. He said that he had met 
 the gorilla suddenly and face to face, and that it had not at- 
 tempted to escape. It was, he said, a huge male, and seemed 
 very savage. It was in a very gloomy part of the wood, and 
 the daikness, I suppose, made him miss. He said he took 
 good aim, and fired when the beast was only about eight 
 yards off. The ball merely wounded it in the side. It at 
 once began beating its breasts, and with the greatest rage 
 advanced upon him. 
 
 To run away was impossible. He would have been caught 
 in the jungle before he had gone a dozen steps. 
 
 He stood his ground, and as quickly as he could reloaded 
 his gun. Just as he raised it to fire the gorilla dashed it out 
 of his hands, the gun going off in the fall ; and then in an 
 instant, and with a teirible roar, the animal gave him a 
 tremendous blow with its immense open paw, frightfully 
 lacerating the abdomen, and wilh this single blow laying bare 
 part of the intestines. As he sank, bleeding, to the ground, 
 the monster seized the gun, and the poor hunter thought he 
 would have his brains dashed out with it. But the s;orilla 
 seemed to have looked upon this also as an enemy, and in his 
 rage almost flattened the barrel between his strong jaws. 
 
 When we came upon the ground the gorilla was gone. 
 This is their mode when attacked — to strike one or two blows, 
 find then leave the victims of their rage on the ground and 
 go off into the woods. 
 
 We hunted up our companions and carried our poor fellow 
 
Chap. XIX. DEATH OF A GORILLA HUNTER. 245 
 
 to the camp, where all was instantly excitement and sorrow. 
 They entieated me to give him medicine, but I had nothing 
 to suit his case. I saw that his days were numbered ; and 
 all I could do was to make him easy bj' giving him a little 
 brandy or wine at intervals. He had to tell the whole story 
 over again ; and the people declared at once that this was no 
 true gorilla that had attacked him, but a man — a wicked 
 man turned into a gorilla. Such a being no man could escape, 
 they said ; and it could not be killed, even by the bravest 
 hunters. This principle of fatalism and of transmigration 
 of souls is brought in by them in all such cases, I think, 
 chiefly to keep up the courage of their hunters, on whom such a 
 mischance exercises a very depressing influence. The hunters 
 are the most valued men in these negro villages. A brave 
 and fortunate one is admired by all the women ; loved — ■ 
 almost worshipped — by his wives ; and enjoys many privi- 
 leges among his fellow-villagers. But his proudest time is 
 when he has killed an elephant or a gorilla and filled the 
 village with meat. Then he may do almost what he pleases. 
 The next day we shot a monster gorilla, which I suppose is 
 the same one that killed my j)oor hunter, for male gorillas 
 are not very plentiful. 
 
 The poor fellow who was hurt by the gorilla died on 
 the 9th. 
 
 Gambo and I have been hunting for a week after 
 another gorilla. The natives said that a monstrous animal 
 had been several times seen in the forest some ten miles to 
 the east. We had been on the hunt for several hours, when 
 we came upon tolerably fresh tracks of an animal which I 
 saw must be a very large one. These tracl^s we followed 
 cautiously, and at last, in a densely wooded and quite dark 
 ravine we came suddenly upon the beast. There were two 
 gorillas, a male and female. Owing to the dense jungle, in a 
 nook of which they were concealed, they saw us first. The 
 female uttered a cry of alarm, and ran off before we could get 
 a shot at her, being lost to sight in a moment in the bush. 
 The male, however, whom I particularly wanted, had no idea 
 of running off. He rose slowly from his haunches and at once 
 faced us, uttering a roar of rage at our evidently untimely 
 
240 TCQUATOTIIAL AFjRICA. Chap. SIX. 
 
 intrusion. Gambo and I wiro accompanied only by a single 
 huutor and an Asliira boy, wlio bore an extra gun. The boy 
 fell back, and we stood side by side and awaited the advance 
 of the hideous monster. In the dim half-light of the ravine, 
 his features working with rage, his gloomy'-, treacherous, 
 mischievous gray eyes, his rapidly-agitated, and frightful, 
 satyr-like features had a horrid Ljok, enough to make one 
 fancy him really a spiirit of the damned. 
 
 He advanced upon us by starts, as is their fashion, pausing 
 to beat his fists upon his vast breast. 
 
 We stood at our posts for at least three long minutes, guns 
 in hand, before the great beast was near enough for a safe 
 shot. In this time I could not help thinking of the misfor- 
 tune of my poor hunter but a few days ago ; and, as I looked 
 at the gorilla before us, I could fancy the horror of the situa- 
 tion when, with empty gun, the poor fellow stood before his 
 remorseless enemy, who came upon him, not with a sudden 
 spring like the leopard, but with a slow, vindictive certainty 
 which is like fate. 
 
 At last ho stood before us at a distance of six yards. Once 
 7uore he paused, and, raising his head, began to roar and beat 
 his breast. Just as he took anotlier step towards us we fired, 
 and down he tumbled, almost at our feet, upon his face, dead. 
 
 Parrots, of varied colours and size, are now screaming and 
 chattering all day in the open woods. One in particular, the 
 gi'ay parrot, flies in flocks of hundreds together, and makes 
 the whole forest alive with its screams. These birds build their 
 nests in hollow trees, and are very sociable in their nature. 
 
 In spite of all my endeavours during my former and this 
 last journey, I have been unable to kill the gnaiionien, a 
 most formidable eagle; but several times I have been startled 
 in the forest by Iho sudden cry of anguish of a monkey who 
 had been seized by this "leopard of the air," as the natives 
 often call it, and then saw the bird with ils prey disappear 
 out of sight. 
 
 One day, hunting through the thick jungle, I came to a 
 spot covered with more than one hundred skulls of monkeys 
 of different sizes. Some of these skulls must have been those 
 of formidable animals, and these now and then succeeded, it 
 
Chap. XIX POISONOUS FLIES. 247 
 
 appears, in giving such bites to this eagle that they disabled 
 liim, Tor a while I thought myself in the Valley of Gol- 
 gotha. Then I saw at the top of a gigantic tree, at the foot 
 of which were the skulls, the nest of the bird, but the young 
 had flown away. I was told by the natives that the 
 guanonien comes and lays in the same nest year after year. 
 When an adult specimen will be procured, it may be found 
 to rival in size the condor of America. 
 
 This upper country has few mosquitoes, but, in their stead, 
 several varieties of flies, which are exceedingly troublesome. 
 The igoogouai is a small, almost imperceptible gnat, which 
 appears in great numbers in the morning, until ten o'clock, 
 from which time it is seen no more till four, when its opera- 
 tions are recommenced, and last till sunset. These little 
 flies are most determined bloodsuckers, very sly in their 
 approaches, but leaving behind them a bite which itches 
 terribly and for a considerable time. Small as they are, 
 even the thick hides of the negroes are punctured by them 
 In hunting they are very troublesome, and often made my 
 men so nervous that they could' hit nothing. 
 
 Another is the iholai, an insect twice as large as our com- 
 mon house-fly. It approaches you with a sharp whistle, and 
 its sting is long and strong enough to pierce the thickest 
 clothes one can wear in the heat of an African summer. 
 The sting is so sharp that I have often jumped up with the 
 sudden pain, which was as if a pin had been stuck savagely 
 into my person. But the bite of this insect, if painful, does 
 not last, like that of another of the same size, which is called 
 the nchouna. This fly makes no noise to warn you of its 
 approach, and inserts its bill so gently that often it gets its 
 fill of blood before you know you are bitten. Pjesently, 
 however, the itching begins, and lasts for several hours, 
 varied, at intervals, by sudden sharp stabs of pain, as though 
 a scorpion had bitten you. Often this lasts the whole day. 
 These last-named animals are found mostly on the rivers. 
 
 The iboco, another fly, is the size of a hornet, and very 
 quick in its motions. Its bite is the most severe of all, and 
 clothing is no protection from them. Often the blood has 
 run down my face or arm from one of their savage attacks, 
 
248 EQUATOIIIAL AFBICA. Chap. XIX. 
 
 and even tlie well-tanned skin of the negroes is punctured till 
 it bleeds, so that one would tliink a leech had been at work 
 on them. 
 
 But most dreaded of all is the eloway, a nest-building wasp 
 which frequents the water-side, where its clay hives are hung 
 to the pendent branches of trees. This fly is really a monster 
 of ferocity, and the natives run from it as they do from no 
 other animal or insect of these woods. The eloway is a little 
 fly, shaped much like a bee, but not quite so big. The body 
 is longer in proportion than that of a bee. Their hives are 
 made of clay, and evidently have separate apartments, as the 
 whole pendent bottle-shaped mass is filled with holes, each of 
 which has a little roof over it. They generally choose a 
 branch which is full of leaves for their nago or nest, and thus 
 are hidden from view. The clay of the nest is so hard that 
 even a bullet fired from a reasonable distance made no im- 
 pression upon it, as I found by several trials. The hives 
 seem to be very full ; when disturbed I have seen them 
 issuing in large swarms, and several from each hole. 
 
 When troubled they are very savage, and attack with a 
 kind of blind rage. Sometimes when paddling down the 
 Eembo a canoe accidentally strikes against a tree containing 
 an eloway nago. Instantly they fall ferociously upon the men. 
 The natives always dive into the water and swim under 
 water for a little distance ; but I noticed that if one of these 
 venomous little insects had settled on a man, he clung to him 
 even in the water, and had literally to be picked off. In such 
 cases I always covered myself up with matting and lay still till 
 they retired. Happily, they do not pursue far ; and when the 
 enemy is out of their sight they return quietly to their nests. 
 
 Their bite is exceedingly painful, and they leave in the 
 wound an acid poison, whicli pains for two or three days. 
 At intervals of an hour the poison seems to gather fresh force, 
 the wound begins to throb, and for a little while is excessively 
 jiainful. The natives fear these eloways very much, and 
 retreat with all e.xpedition when they have accidentally dis- 
 turbed a nest. When they see a nest, also, they always 
 paddlo to the opposite side of the stream. Going nearly 
 naked, they are very much exposed to its attacks; and its 
 
Chap. XIX. SERPENTS AND TUEIR HABITS. 249 
 
 motions are so very quick tliat even a speedy tumble over- 
 board does not generally save them from one or two bites. 
 
 Of snakes all this back country lias a great abundance. A 
 few are harmless ; some of the large species attack the larger 
 beasts and crush them in their folds ; or, if smaller, thej' have 
 poison-fangs. It is curious that the negroes have no vegetable 
 or other remedy for a snake-bite ; but they are not often 
 bitten. The snakes are easily alarmed, and the noise of an 
 approaching hunter scares them out of his path. Sometimes 
 they hang from the limbs of trees, waiting, probably, for 
 prey to pass beneath, and several times such a pendent 
 animal has given me a fright by falling down beside me as I 
 stood under a tree. But they never attack man, so far as I 
 have seen. I saw and killed on several occasions pythons 
 measuring from twenty to twenty-five feet; but the largest [ 
 ever saw had been killed by a party of natives, and was just 
 skinned as I came up. This was on the Eembo. The skin 
 measured a little over thirt3'-three feet in length. 
 
 The smaller snakes feed on birds, and squirrels, and rats, 
 which I am convinced, from frequent observation, they are 
 able to charm with their look. Tliis power of charming I had 
 always doubted, but I was convinced by one day watching 
 a venomous black snake, over four feet long, subduing and 
 catching a squirrel which sat on the lower branch of a tree. 
 It was in the rear of Obindji's village. I had gone out to shoot 
 birds, and my attention was attracted by the very peculiar 
 and continued chattering of a squirrel. When I saw it I did 
 not know what to make of its movements. It seemed as 
 though tied to its branch and very anxious to get away. Its 
 head was thrust forward, its eyes fixed and glaring ; but its 
 body trembled, and was jerked about from side to side. All 
 the time it was screaming and chattering in a really pitiable 
 manner. Following the direction of its glance I saw the 
 cause of its alarm. The black snake was slowly creeping out 
 on the limb, and as steadily kept his eyes on his victim. The 
 whole curious process went on under my inspection for at 
 least ten or twelve minutes, during all which time the snake 
 seemed to fix the gaze of the squirrel iTpon itself. The 
 squirrel came nearer and nearer, until it reached the mouth 
 
250 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XIX 
 
 of the snake, which made a spring, grasped its prey in its 
 month, and "quickly coiled its folds about it. 
 
 I have seen many such cases of charming, both of birds 
 and squirrels ; and sometimes firing my gun dissolved the 
 charm, by diverting momentarily the gaze of the suake. 
 
 The country about here is probably one of the richest 
 fields for an enterprising naturalist now remaining in the 
 world. Equatorial Africa seems to have a fauna of its own. 
 The lion, common both to North and South Africa, is not 
 found here at all. Neither are the zebra, gnu, giraffe, 
 rhinoceros, or ostrich, and the great number of antelopes so 
 common in other parts of the continent, known here. There 
 are no tame cattle, no horses, no donkeys ; in fact, the only 
 domesticated animals are goats and fowls, and a species of 
 t^heep. Several kinds of gazelles offer sport to the hunter- 
 naturalist ; and I saw several specimens of a very beautiful 
 antelope (the Bongo), which may be considered one of the 
 handsomest antelopes yet discovered in Africa. Swift of foot, 
 as are all its kind, and exceedingly graceful in its motions, 
 though more heavily built than most antelopes. Among the 
 carnivora, the leopard takes the first rank. It is a very large 
 and majestic animal here. There is also a hyena, whose raids 
 among the goats are often troublesome ; and several varieties 
 of tiger-cats. 
 
 Among the most peculiar of the monkeys is the little 
 oshingui, one of the smallest of the whole monkey tribe. It 
 is a frolicsome and innocent little animal, and remarkable for 
 its fondness for the water ; so that where you meet one of 
 them hopping about the branches overhead, you may be sure 
 wuter is not far off. They always sleep on some tree the 
 branches of which overhang a water-course. This little 
 monkey is also a great favourite with the monkey-birds 
 (Buceros alho-cry status), which I often saw playing with it. 
 
 Not only was I now sick, but also poor and ragged. My 
 clothes were torn and patched, and I looked, in reality, very 
 little better or more civilized than my negro friends. Food 
 was scarce ; and though my friends and hunters, Querlaouen, 
 Obindji, and others, gave me what they had, it was robbing 
 them. So I told Quengueza we must go. 
 
Chap. XIX. 
 
 A CDBIOVS SUPERSTITION. 
 
 251 
 
 Before leaving I had a glimpse at another curious super- 
 stition of these people. One of the hunters had shot a wild 
 bull, and when the carcass was brought in the good fellow 
 
 
 Si 
 
 '''ft,- f\r 
 
 ifi 
 
 'T, 
 
 
 THE BONGO ANTELOPE. 
 
 {Trogc'laphtis albo-virgatus.') 
 
 General colour, liriglit orange, \viUi a chestnut patcli between the horns 
 and eyes, below wbieh ts a white crescent, having in the middle a dark 
 brown stripe ; but the chief features of the animal are the stripes on each 
 side. 
 
252 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap, XIX 
 
 sent me an abundant supply of the best portions. The meat 
 is tough, but was most welcnme for a change. I had a great 
 piece boiled for dinner, and expected Quengueza to eat as 
 much as would make several hungry white men sick. Judge 
 of my surprise, when, coming to the table and seeing only 
 the meat, he refused to touch it. 
 
 I asked, why ? 
 
 " It is roondah for me," he replied. And then, in answer 
 to my question, explained that the meat of the Bos brachi- 
 cheros was forbidden to his family, and was an abomination 
 to them, for the reason that many generations ago one of 
 their women gave birth to a calf instead of a child. 
 
 I laughed ; but the king replied verj- soberly that he could 
 show me a woman of another family whose grandmother had 
 given birth to a crocodile — for which reason the crocodile was 
 roondah to that family. 
 
 Quengueza would never touch my salt-beef, nor even the 
 pork, fearing lest it had been in contact with the beef. In- 
 deed they are all religiously scrupulous in this matter ; and 
 I found, on inquiry afterwards, that scarce a man can be 
 found to whom some article of food is not " roondah." Some 
 dare not taste crocodile, some hippopotamus, some monkey, 
 some boa, some wild pig, and all from this same belief. They 
 will literally suiFer the pangs of starvation rather than break 
 through this prejudice ; and they very firmly believe that if 
 one of a family should eat of such forbidden food, the women 
 of the same family would surely miscarry and give birth to 
 monstrosities in the shape of the animal which is roondah, or 
 «lse die of an awful disease. 
 
 Sometimes I find that the fetich-man forbids an individual 
 to touch certain kinds of food for some reason, or no reason 
 rather. In this case the prohibition extends only to the man, 
 and not to bis family. 
 
 It is astonishing how strictly such gluttons as they are 
 adhere to their scruples. It shows the power a superstitious 
 faith has even over a lawless people as these are. I am 
 certain nothing in the world would have induced the old 
 king to eat the flesh of the wild bull, or even to eat out of a 
 dish in which that had been cooked or otherwise contained. 
 
CiiAr. XX. THE BASEIKOUAY ANT. 253 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Ants — The !i«sliil;ouay nnt— Its ferocity — Great moving armies of bashi- 
 kouays — How tliey spi-ead — Tlieir mode of attack — Tliey travel 
 night and day — Every animal and insect Hies before them — The 
 white auts — Tlieir buildings — Tlieir habits — How they repair their 
 houses — Their appearance — The ipi or scaly ant-eater. 
 
 In the forests of this part of Africa are found vast numbers 
 of ants, some of whose tribes are so terrible to man, and 
 even to the beasts of the wood, from their harsh bites, their 
 fierce temper and voracity, that their path is freely aban- 
 doned to them, and they may well be called lords of the 
 forest. 
 
 1 know of ten different species of ants found in these 
 regions, all differing widely in their choice of food, the 
 quality of their venom, the manner of their attack, or the 
 
 QHE BASHIKOUAY ANT, MAGNIFIED TO TWICE ITS NATURAL SIZE. 
 
 time of their operation. The most remarkable and most 
 dreaded of all is the hashikouay, of which I have spoken 
 before. 
 
 They carry nothing away, but eat all their prey on the 
 spot. It is their habit to march through the forests in a 
 long regular line — a line about two inches broad and often 
 several miles in length. All along this line are larger ants, 
 who act as officers, stand outside the ranks, and keep this 
 singular army in order. If they come to a place where 
 there are no trees to shelter them from the sun, whose heat 
 18 
 
254 ~ EQUATORIAL A FUWA. Chap. XX. 
 
 tliey cannot bear, tliey iinniediatoly cuustruct underground 
 tunnels, tlirougli wliich tlie whole army passes in columns to 
 the forest beyond. These tunnels are four or five feet under- 
 ground, and are used only in the heat of the day or during a 
 storm. 
 
 Wlien they grow hungry the long file spreads itself through 
 tlie forest in a front line, and attacks and devours all it 
 overtakes with a fury which is quite irresistible. The 
 elephant and gorilla fly before this atlack. The black men 
 run for their lives. Every animal that lives in their line of 
 march is chased. They seem to understand and act upon 
 the tactics of Napoleon, and concentrate, with great speed, 
 their heaviest foices upon the j)oint of attack. In an in- 
 credibly short sj)ace of time the mouse, or dog, or leopard, or 
 deer is overwhelmed, killed, eaten, and the bare skeleton 
 only remains. 
 
 They seem to travel night and day. Many a time have I 
 been awakened out of a sleep, and obliged to rush from the 
 hilt and into the water to save my life, and after all suffered 
 intolerable agony from the bites of the advance-guard, who 
 had got into my clothes. When they enter a house they 
 clear it of all living things. Cockroaches are devoured in an 
 instant. Eats and mice spring round the room in vain. An 
 overwhelming force of ants kills a strong rat in less than a 
 minute, in spite of the most frantic struggles, and in less 
 tlian another minute its bones are stripped. Eveiy living 
 thing in the house is devoured, They will not touch vege- 
 table matter. Thus tbej' are in reality very useful (as well 
 as dangerous) to the negroes, who have their huts cleared of 
 all the abounding vermin, such as immense cockroaches and 
 centipedes, at least several times a year. 
 
 Wlien on their march the insect-world flies before them, 
 and 1 have often had the approach of a bashikouay army 
 heralded to me by this means. Wherever they go they make 
 a clean sweep, even ascending to the tops of the highest trees 
 in pursuit of their prey. Their manner of attack is an im- 
 petuous leap. Instantly the strong pincers are fastened, and 
 they only let go when the piece gives way. At such times 
 this little animal seems animated by a kind of fury which 
 
Chap. XX. TBE BASBIKOUAY ANTS. 255 
 
 causes it entirely to disregard its own safety, and to seek only 
 the conquest of its piey. The bite is very painful. 
 
 The negroes relate that criminals were in former times 
 exposed in the path of the bashikouay ants, as the most cruel 
 manner of putting them to death. 
 
 When on their line of march they require to cross a narrow 
 stream, they throw themselves across and form a tunnel — a 
 living tunnel — connecting two trees or high bushes on op- 
 posite slides of the little stream, whenever they can find such 
 to facilitate the operation. This is done with great speed, 
 and is effected by a great number of ants, each of which 
 clings with its fore claws to its next neighbour's body or 
 hind claws. Thus they form a high, safe tubular bridge, 
 through which the whole vast regiment marches in regular 
 order. If disturbed, or if the arch is broken by the violence 
 of some animal, they instantly attack the offender with the 
 greatest animosity. 
 
 There is another species of bashikouay which is found in 
 the mountains to the south of the equator. It is of great 
 size. The body is gra) ish- white in colour ; the head of a 
 reddish-black. Its fangs are very powerful, and it is able to 
 make a clean bite out of a piece of flesh. It is thus a very 
 formidable insect ; but fortunately its motions are not so quick 
 as those of its fierce brother ; it does not march in such vast 
 armies, nor does it precipitate itself upon its prey with such 
 iiTesistible fuiy. In its motions it is almost sluggish. They 
 do not invade villages, nor climb trees in pursuit of prey ; 
 and I do not think them nearly so voracious as their fellows 
 before mentioned. If they were, they could doubtless clear 
 the country of every living thing, for they are much more 
 powerful. They are, in fact, to ants what whales are to 
 fishes. 
 
 There are many different species of white ants (Termites), 
 the nests of which are very conspicuous objects in the 
 prairies. 
 
 The Mushroom-hived Termes. — They build a singular edifice, 
 or hive, shaped like gigantic mushrooms, which are scattered 
 by tens of thousands over the Otando prairie. The top is 
 from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter, and the column 
 
■^56 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XX. 
 
 about five inches : the total height is from ten inches to 
 fifteen inches. After the grass has been burnt they present 
 a most extraordinary appearance ; near Miij'olo they are met 
 with almost at every step. They are not all uniformly built, 
 as they appear at a distance, but differ in the roundness or 
 sharpness of their summits. I opened a great number of 
 these, and follovred up my researches day after day into 
 
 NESTS or MUSHROOM ANTS AND TKEE ANTS. 
 
 the habits of their inhabitants. These and all similar 
 edifices are built to protect the white ants against the in- 
 clemencies of the weather, and against their enemies, which 
 are very numerous, and include many predaceous kinds of 
 fellow ants. 
 
 The mushroom-shaped hive is not so firmly built in the 
 ground but that it can be knocked down by a well-planted 
 kick. It is built of a kind of mortar after being digested in 
 
Chap. XX. HABITS OF THE WHITE ANTS. 257 
 
 the stomachs of the ants. When felled, the base of the pillar 
 is found to have rested on the ground, leaving a circular 
 hollow, in the middle of which is a ball of earth full of 
 cells, which enters the centre of the base of the pillar, and 
 the cells are eagerlj' defended by a multitude of the soldier 
 class of the ants, which I took to be males, all striving to 
 bite the intruder with their pinoer-like jaws. On breaking 
 open the ball — which, when handled, divided itself into 
 three parts — I always found it full of young white ants in 
 different stages of growth, and also of eggs. The yoimg 
 were of a milky- white colour, while the adults were yellowish, 
 with a tinge of grey when the abdomen is full of earth. 
 Besides these young ants, there were a great many full- 
 grown individuals, whom I took to be females, and who 
 appeared to be the workers or labourers. These have not 
 elongated nippers like the soldiers, but have very bulky 
 abdomens, and they are inoffensive. Besides these soldiers 
 and workers, I always saw, whenever I broke a hive, a very 
 much larger specimen than the other two, which came in 
 from the inner galleries, looked round, and went away again. 
 These large ants w^ere very few in number. There ■were, 
 therefore, three distinct sets of individuals. To these large 
 ones I shall give the name of head-men or chiefs. 
 
 In order to examine the rest of the structure I often took 
 an axe and broke the nest into several pieces; but the 
 material was so hard that it required several blows before 
 I succeeded. I tried then to make out the structure of the 
 chambers and galleries of which the interior was composed. 
 But before I could do this, I was somewhat perplexed at 
 discovering that there was another distinct species of white 
 ant mixed up with the proper architects of the edifice. The 
 soldiers of this other species were much smaller and more 
 slender, and, as I broke the pieces, these two kinds fell to 
 fighting one another. On close inspection I found that 
 these slender fellows came out of cells composed of a yellow 
 earth, whilst the others inhabited cells of black earth. The 
 yellow colour was due to a coating of some foreign substance 
 on the walls of the cells. The chambers inhabited by the 
 slender species did not communicate with those peopled by 
 
258 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XX. 
 
 the lords of the manor ; they seemed rather to be inserted 
 into the vacant spaces or partition walls between the other 
 cells. No doubt they had intruded themselves, after the 
 building had been finished, from under the ground. 
 
 In the fight the larger kind showed no mercy to the 
 smaller. It was quite marvellous to witness the fury with 
 which the soldiers of the one kind seized the bodies of the 
 
 NESTS OF FOREST ANTS. 
 
 others with their powerful pincer-jaws, and carried them 
 away into their own chambers. 'I'he soldiers of the slender 
 kind also possessed long pincer-like jaws, and I noticed in 
 one instance, when a worker of the larger kind had seized a 
 small worker, who was in her last struggle for life, that one 
 of these slender soldiers flew to the rescue, and snapping 
 into the soft abdomen of the assailant, twice its size, let out 
 its contents ; the slender one then fell from the pincers that 
 
Chap. XX. NESTS OF WHITE ANTS. 259 
 
 had gripped her, but life was extinct. The rescuer came, 
 examined the body, and seeing that she was dead, went away 
 and disappeared ; if she had been only wounded she would 
 probably have been carried away, as they do the young. I 
 may here remark that, with the exception of the head, the 
 body of the termites is exceedingly soft. On examining the 
 structure of the soldiers, it is evident that their powerful 
 pincer-jaws are made for wounding and piercing, while the 
 structure of the workers shows that their pincers are made 
 for the purposes of labour. Nothing astonished me more 
 than this impetuous attack ; nay attention was intense on 
 this deadly combat ; the weaker species knew I he vulnerable 
 point of his formidable enemy, who was too busy to protect 
 himself. A further examination showed me that the mush- 
 room-like cap of the whole edifice was composed of both 
 black and yellow cells. This curious mixture of two species, 
 each building its own cells and yet contributing to form an 
 entire and symmetrical edifice, filled me with astonishment. 
 The wonder did not cease here, for in some of the mushroom- 
 like beads there was still a third kind quite distinct from 
 the other two. 
 
 The mushroom nests are built very rapidly, but when 
 finished they last, in all probability, many years. The ants 
 work at them only at night, and shut out all the apertures 
 from the external air when daylight comes, for the white 
 ant abhors daylight; and when they migrate from an old 
 building to commence the erection of a new one, they come 
 from under the ground. Sometimes they add to their 
 structures by building one mushroom-head above another ; I 
 have seen as many as four, one on the top of the other. The 
 new structures are built when the colony increases; new 
 cells must be found for the new comers. The shelter is 
 quite rain-proof. 
 
 I passed hours in watching the tiny builders at their daily 
 labours in the cells, which I was enabled to do by laying 
 open some of their cells, and then observing what went on 
 after all was quiet. So soon as the cells are br. ken, a few 
 head-men or chiefs are seen ; each one moves his head all 
 round the aperturOj and then disappears into the dark gal- 
 
260 EQUATORIAL AFB.ICA. Chap, XX. 
 
 leries, apparently without leaving anything. Then the 
 soldiers come ; these do no work, but there must be some 
 intention in these movements ; they no doubt were on guard 
 to protect the workers. I was never able, even with my 
 magnifying glass, to see theiu do anything. The workers 
 then come forward, and each of them turns round and ejects 
 from behind a quantity of liquid mud into the aperture, and 
 finally walls it up. They come one after the other, and all 
 of them leave their contributions ; this is done first in a row 
 from one end of the aperture to another, then each ejection 
 is put on the top of the other with a precision that would do 
 honour to a bricklayer or stonemason. The question to me 
 was to know if the same ants went away to eat more earth 
 and came again. How much would I have given to be able 
 to see into the dark recesses of the chambers ! The apertures 
 of the cells were only closed during the day, and during the 
 following night the jjart of the siructure which I had 
 demolished was rebuilt to its original shape. Some of them 
 brought very small grains of sand or minute pebbles, and 
 deposited them in the mud ; when demolishing their shelter, 
 I saw several cells filled with these little pebbles, which I 
 had also collected and preserved. Soon after others came 
 and closed up the cell. The earth which they eat can be 
 seen shining through the thin skins of their bodies, but I 
 was unable to see where it was stored in the interior of the 
 edifice. The mud is mixed with gluey matter, through the 
 digestion, when it is ejected, and with this material the 
 little creatures are enabled to build up the thin tough walls 
 which form their cells, and, in course of time, the firm and 
 solid structure of the entire nest. Sun and rain are equally 
 fatal to the white ants ; thus it is necessary that thcj' should 
 build a hive impervious to light, heat, and rain. I have put 
 while ants in the sun, and they were shortly afterwards 
 killed by its heat. I thought each cell whs, perhaps, inhabited 
 only by one ant, but the great number I saw in each 
 mushroom-like edifice made it quite improbable that it 
 should be so. 
 
 One may retire to bed in fancied security, with no sign of 
 white ants about, and in the morning wake to find little 
 
Chap. XX. 
 
 TEE SGALT ANT-EATEB. 
 
 261 
 
 covered ways overspreading the floor and chests of clothing 
 and stores, and the contents of the chest entirely destiojed, 
 with thousands of the busy ants engaged in cutting the 
 things with their sharp jaw-blades. Everything made of 
 wool or silk is, however, invariably spared. At Mdyolo this 
 kind of ant was very abundant, and was a cause of much 
 anxiety to me. 
 
 The pangolin genus (Manis of zoologists) to which the Ipi 
 
 ^** '■^rf-** -iV A'S *••.<' 'Mt' '-5 ' * 
 
 IPI, OR SCALY ANT-EATER. 
 
 (Pholidotus Africmnm.) 
 
 belongs is a very singular group of animals. They are ant- 
 eaters, like the Mijrmecojjliaga of South America, being like 
 them quite destitute of teeth, and having a long extensile 
 tongue, the extremity of which is covered with a glutinous 
 secretion, by means of which they catch their prey. But, 
 whilst the South American ant-eaters are clothed with hair, 
 like ordinary mammalian animals, the pangolins have an 
 
2C2 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XX, 
 
 armour of large scales, implanted in the skin of the upper 
 surface of the body from the head to the tip of the tail, and 
 imbricated or overlapping, like the slates on the roof of a 
 house. The animals look, at first sight, like curious heavj- 
 bodied lizards, but they have warm blood, and nourish their 
 young like the rest of the mammalia. 
 
 The ijji lives in burrows in the earth, or sometimes in the 
 large hollows of colossal trunks of trees which have fallen to 
 the ground. The burrows that I saw were in light soil on 
 the slope of a hill. There are two holes to each gallery, one 
 for entrance and the other for exit. This is necessary, on 
 accouat of the animal being quite incapable of curving its 
 body sideways, so that it cannot turn itself in its burrow. 
 The bodies of pangolins are very flexible vertically, that is, 
 they can roll themselves up into a ball, and coil and uncoil 
 themselves very readily, but they cannot turn round within 
 the confined limits of their burrows. In hunting them we 
 had first to ahcertain, by the footmark, or more readily by 
 the marks left by the trail of the tail, which was the entrance 
 and which the exit of the burrow, and then, making a trap 
 at the one end, drive them out by the smoke of a fire at the 
 other ; afterwards securing them with ropes. The freshness 
 of the tracks told us that the animal had entered its burrow 
 the previous evening ; for I must add that the ipi is nocturnal 
 in its habits, sleeping in its burrow throughout the day. 
 When it wanders at night the natives say that they can hear 
 the rattling of its large scales. 
 
 I was rewarded by finding two sjiecimens, an adult female 
 and a young one ; the skins and skeletons of both I preserved 
 and afterwards sent to the British Museum. The adult 
 measured about four feet and a half from the head to the 
 tip of the tail. The flesh of the ijoi is good eating. I found, 
 on dissection, nothing but the remains of ants in their 
 stomachs. The tail is very thick, and makes a large track 
 on the aTOund in walking. 
 
Chap. XXI. TRIBAL DISTINCTIONS. 263 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Subdivision of tribes — Tribes divided into clans — Cliieftainship — The 
 elders — Two kinds of slaves — Polygamy — Eeligioue notions of the 
 negroes — Idols — Fetiches and charms — Eabolo's fetich — The curse of 
 witchcraft — The doctor — Power of the doctor. 
 
 Among the tribes which I visited in my explorations I 
 found but one form of government, which may be called the 
 patriarchal. There is not sufficient national unity in any of 
 the tribes to give occasion for such a despotism as prevails 
 in Dahomey and in other of the African nationalities. I 
 found the tribes of Equatorial Africa greatly dispersed, and, 
 in general, no bond of union between parts of the same tribe. 
 A tribe is divided into numerous clans, and these again into 
 numberlet^s little villages, each of which possesses an inde- 
 pendent chief. The villages are scattered, are often moved 
 on account of death or witchcraft, as I have already explained 
 in the narrative, and not unfrequently are engaged in war 
 with each other. 
 
 The chieftainship is, to a certain extent, hereditary, the 
 right of succession vesting in the brother of the reigning 
 chief or king. The people, however, and particularly the 
 elders of the village, have a veto power, and can, for sufficient 
 cause, deprive the lineal heir of his succession, and put in 
 over him some one thought of more woi th. In such cases 
 the question is put to the vote of the village ; and where 
 parties are equally divided as to strength, there ensue some- 
 times long and serious palavers before all can unite in a 
 choice. The chief is mostly a man of great influence prior 
 to his accession, and generally an old man when he gains 
 power. 
 
 His authority, though greater than one would think, judg- 
 ing from the little personal deference paid to him, is final 
 only in matters of every-day use. In cases of urgency, such 
 as war or any important removal, the elders of the village 
 meet together and deliberate in the presence of the whole 
 population, who finally decide the question. 
 
 The elders, who possess other authority and are always in 
 
•264 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXI. 
 
 the counsels of the chiefs, are the ohiest members of important 
 families in the village. Eespect is paid to them on account 
 of their years, but more from a certain regard for " family," 
 which the African has very strongly wherever I have known 
 him. 
 
 There are two kinds of slaves in all the tribes I met. One 
 class are domestic servants, who are not sold out of the tribe, 
 and who, while suffering some disabilities as slaves, have yet 
 a large portion of liberty, and a certain voice and influence 
 in the village'v^rhere they are owned. They are protected by 
 their master ; have often property of their own ; and their 
 chief duty is to provide him with food, either by hunting or 
 by assisting in the tillage of the ground, which is the labour 
 of free women and the female slaves. 
 
 Masters are seldom very severe with their slaves, because 
 they fear that the slave will in revenge bewitch them. The 
 slave is held to be in a very inferior position to a free 
 man ; and the master may kill his slave if he will, no one 
 having the right of interfering between them. The laws or 
 customs of the country protect him in this privilege, which 
 I have myself known to be exercised. Many slaves enjoy the 
 confidence of their masters to that degree that they are sent 
 on long trading journeys with much valuable j^roperty. 
 They are generally faithful to such trusts. 
 
 Polygamy exists everywhere. A man's great ambition is 
 to have a great many wives. These cultivate the ground for 
 him, and it is, in fact, their duty to feed him. He does not 
 interfere with their labours on the soil. They are responsible 
 for his daily fuod. The man buys his wife of her father for 
 a sum agreed on, often when she is but a child. She becomes 
 his wife sometimes at the age of iivo, and sometimes still 
 younger. Often the young child is placed under care of the 
 future husband's chief wife. A man's claims on his father- 
 in-law for help in trade, or in a palaver, are rigidly respected, 
 and this gives additional value to a great number of wives. 
 I have found that the wives rarely disagree among them- 
 selves. 
 
 Men marry at every opportunity, and at all ages up to 
 seven ly or eighty. Obedience- is the wife's first duty, and 
 
CHAr. XXI. 
 
 SriBITS OF THE DErAUTED. 
 
 265 
 
 I 
 
 it is enforced without mercy. Such a whip as is figured 
 below is an important instrument found in every house. It is 
 made of the hide of the hijipopotamus or manatee, and is a 
 barbarous loeapon, as haril and heavj' as iron. Tliis is laid 
 on with no light hand, the worthy husband crj'ing 
 out, " Kascal, do you think I paid my slaves for you 
 for nothing?" A stroke of the whip often leaves 
 a life-hmg mark ; and I saw very few women in 
 all my travels who had not some such marks on 
 their persons. 
 
 Their religious notions are of the loosest and 
 vaguest kind, and no two persons are found to 
 agree in any particulars about which the traveller 
 seeks information. Superstition seems in these 
 countries to have run wild, and every man believes 
 what his fancy, by some accident, most forcibly 
 presents to him as hurtful or beneficial. 
 
 They fear the spirits of the recewJZjz-departed ; 
 and besides placing furniture, dress, and food at 
 their graves, return from time to lime witli other 
 supplies of food. When men and women are slain 
 over a grave, they even believe that their spirits 
 join that of him in whose honour they have been 
 killed. During the season appointed for mourn- 
 ing, the deceased is rememljered and feared; but 
 when once his memory grows dim, the negro ceases 
 to believe in the prolonged existence of the de- 
 parted spirit. 
 
 Ask a negro where the spirit of his grandfather 
 or great-grandfather, whom he did not know, is, 
 and he will reply confidently that it is " done," 
 " gone out," no more, or that he does not know 
 where it has gone. 
 
 I have frequently held such conversation as this — 
 
 " Do you believe there is a God ? " lOi 
 
 " Yes." 
 
 " Do you think you will see this God when you die ? " 
 
 " No." 
 
 "After death all is done," is a proverb always in their 
 
26G EQVATOSIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXI. 
 
 mouths. The fear of spirits of the departed seems an in- 
 stinctive feeling for which they do not attempt to account to 
 themselves, and about which they have formed no theory. 
 They believe the spirit is near and about them; that it 
 requires food and property ; that it can and sometimes does 
 harm them. They think of it as a vindictive thing, to be 
 feared and to be conciliated. 
 
 I found in aU the tribes I visited a faith in the existence 
 and power of the two great spirits, one called Abambou or 
 Ocoucou, and. the other Mbuirri. They have other names in 
 various tribes, but wherever I journeyed I found this belief. 
 Some tribes believe them to be married to two female spirits. 
 They are said sometimes to walk into the village by night 
 and to let their voices be heard. These two spirits are the 
 potent ones ; they seem to be more powerful than all the 
 others. In sickness and on other grave occasions they are 
 always invoked. 
 
 The name Aniamhie stands, I think, for God. But yet they 
 have no idea of a Supreme and Almighty Spirit, Creator and 
 Preserver. The word aniemha, which sounds much like the 
 previously-named, and is probably derived from the same 
 root, signifies " possessed by a witch." 
 
 The large idol of a clan is kept in a house made for the 
 purpose, and hither come its worshippers when they are 
 about to proceed on a hunting or other important expedition. 
 They present food, and then invoke its protection by dancing 
 and singing before it. Such idols are handed down from 
 generation to generation, and are much feared. There are 
 also private idols, possessed and worshipped by individuals ; 
 but these have less general authority. 
 
 Their idols, which are always repulsive figures, are believed 
 to speak, to walk about, to eat and drink. 
 
 After the idols come the charms or greegrees, called by 
 them mondah. Greegree, like fetich, is a term of European 
 origin. In these mondahs they have implicit faith. No 
 negro in all this region but has about his person one or 
 more of these articles. The preparation gives a considerable 
 revenue and much honour to the doctors, who have, however, 
 themselves the greatest confidence in these things. The 
 
Chap. XXI, A PECULIAR 310NDAH. 267 
 
 mondalis are generally worn about the nock or waist ; are 
 made of the skins of rare animals, of the claws of birds, 
 of the teeth of crocodiles or leopards, of the dried flesh 
 and brains of animals, of the feathers of rure birds, of the 
 ashes of certain kinds of wood, of the skin and bones of 
 serpents, etc. Every greegree has a special power. One 
 protects from sickness ; ' another makes the heart of the 
 hunter or warrior brave ; another gives success to the lover ; 
 another protects against sorcery ; some cure sterility, and 
 others make the mother's breast abound in milk for her babe. 
 The charmed leopard-skin worn about the warrior's middle 
 is supposed to render that worthy spear-proof ; and when he 
 has an iron chain about his nock no bullet can hit hitn. If 
 the charm fails, his faith is none the less firm, for then it is 
 considered that some potent and wicked sorcerer has worked 
 a too powerful counter-spell, and to this he has fallen a 
 victim. 
 
 I will here give a curious instance of their superstitious 
 regard for felichism. The building of a new house, which I 
 had chosen for my residence, and which I had bought of 
 Eabolo, a petty chief, approached completion. Nothing re- 
 mained to be put up except the verandah ; but an obstacle 
 existed to its completion which my men dared not remove. 
 This was a formidable mondali or fetich, which my friend 
 Eabolo had made in his village before I purchased it, and 
 which I now found was close to the site of my house, at what 
 was formerly the entrance to the single street of the village. 
 Almost all the villages in this country have something of this 
 kind at tlieir entrance, constructed to prevent the entry of 
 witchciaft and death, or to bring good luck to the inhabi- 
 tants. Eabolo's talisman was considered to be a very effec- 
 tive one, for since the village was established, twelve dry 
 seasons ago, no one had died there. This was no great wonder, 
 since there were only fifteen inhabitants in the place. 
 
 My builders came to me to say they dared not remove 
 Eabolo's fetich, and prayed me not to touch it until Eabolo 
 came, otherwise there would be a big palaver. It seemed 
 likely I should have some difficulty, for Eabolo had already 
 spent the purchase-money of his village, distributing the 
 
2C8 EQUATOniAL AFRICA. Chap. XXI. 
 
 goods amongst liis wives and numerous fathers-in-law. How- 
 ever, I was firm, and when Eabolo came I was peremptory 
 in demanding that the rubbish should be cleared away. He 
 submitted at last, and commenced to cut down the bushes 
 which Covered the lalisman, and dig wp the mysterious relics. 
 The first thing that I saw turned up was the skull of a chim- 
 panzee buiied in the sand ; then came the skull of a man, 
 proljably an ancestor of Eabolo, and a mass of broken plates, 
 glas.ses, and crockery of all sorts, which had been placed 
 there to keep company with the mondali. He then removed 
 the two upright poles with cross-bar and talismanic creeper 
 growing at their foot, which constituted the protecting portal 
 of the village, the negroes all the while standing around 
 with looks of blank amazement. It is the belief of the 
 negroes that, as long as the creeping-jilant keeps alive, so 
 long will the fetich retain its efficacy. A similar plant 
 covered both the heaps of skulls and rubbish. At the foot of 
 t'ds portal and underneath the creej)er were more chimpanzee 
 skulls and fragments of pottery. In the ground near the 
 two poles were also two wooden idols. We removed the 
 whole, and I need not tell my readers that no evil conse- 
 quences ensued. As to Eabolo and his subjects, thej' flattered 
 themselves that it was this powerful fetich which brought 
 me to settle on this spot. They have, in common with all 
 the negroes of this part of Africa, a notion that there is some 
 mj'sterious connection or affinity between the chimpanzee 
 and the white man. It is owing, I believe, to the pale face 
 of the chimpanzee, which has suggested the notion that we 
 are descended from it, as the negro has descended from the 
 black-faced gorilla. I heard of other head men of villages 
 making mondahs with skulls of chimpanzees associated with 
 skulls of their ancestors, believing that these would draw 
 my heart to them and induce me to give them presents. 
 
 The greatest curse of the whole country is the belief in 
 aniemha — sorcery or witchcraft. The African firmly believes 
 death to be always a violence. He cannot imagine that a man 
 who was well two weeks ago should now be lying at death's 
 door with disease, unless some potent wizard had interfered, 
 and by witchcraft broken the thread of life and inflicted 
 
Ohap. XXI. SDPEIiSriTIONS OF WITCHCRAFT. 269 
 
 sickness. They have the most terrible and debasing fear of 
 death. 
 
 " Are you ready for death ? " I sometimes asked. 
 " No ! " would be the hasty reply. " Never speak of that ; 
 ah ! " with a shudder of horror. 
 
 And then a dark cloud settled on the poor fellow's face ; 
 in his sleep that night he had horrid dreams, and for a few 
 days he was suspicious of all about him, fearing for his poor 
 life, lest it should be attacked by a wizard. 
 
 If the African is once possessed with the belief that he is 
 bewitched, his whole nature seems to change. He becomes 
 suspicious of his dearest friends. The father dreads his 
 children- -the son his father and mother, the man his wife, 
 and the wives their husband. He fancies himself sick, and 
 really often becomes sick through his fears. By night be 
 thinks himself surrounded with evil spirits. He covers 
 himself with fetiches and charms, makes presents to the idol 
 and to Abambou and Mbuirri ; and is full of wonderful and 
 frightful il reams, which all point to the fact that the village 
 is full of wicked sorcerers. Gradually the village itself 
 becomes infected by his fears. The people gro\^ suspicious. 
 Chance turns their suspicions to some unlucky individual, 
 who is supposed to have a reason for a grudge. Finally, the 
 excitement becomes too high to be restrained ; and often they 
 do not even wait for a death, but begin at once the work of 
 butchering those on whom public suspicion is fastened. On 
 the death oi a. free man, at least one or two persons are killed, 
 but this is not generally the case when women, children, or 
 slaves die. The law of witchcraft makes no distinction, as 
 regards its victims, between prince, slave, or free man, male 
 or female. 
 
 In such cases the influence of the ouganga, or doctor, is 
 always potent for evil. He gains in power by every such 
 scene ; and it is his interest, therefore, to foster rather than 
 to restrain the excitement. His incantations are waited upon 
 with breathless interest, and woe to the luckless man or 
 woman who has offended him, fir now he has his revenge. 
 His decisions follow often the prejudices of the multitude, who 
 have suspected beforehand those that are thought to be 
 19 
 
270 EQL'A'WllIAL AFniCA. Chap. XXI. 
 
 possessed of the anicmha. From the doctor's doeision there is 
 no appeal but that of. driiiluDg the mhoundou. 
 
 I have often endeavoured to get at the secret thoughts of 
 the doctors or wonder-workers among these people. They 
 lead the popular superstition in such manner that it is almost 
 impossible to suppose they are themselves deceived, and yet 
 it is certain that most of them have a kind of faith in it. 
 Nevertheless, it is not likely that they are imposed upon to 
 the same extent as the cominon people, and this because they 
 are most barefaced impostors themselves. They go about 
 covered with charms to which they themselves give import- 
 ance. They relate most wonderful dreams and visions, and 
 when they fasten a charge of sorcery on any person, it is 
 scarce possible to conceive tliat in such a case they are the 
 victims of delusions which they themselves create. Indeed, 
 I must say, that generally for months before popular feeling 
 points to those who are believed to be wizards. I have never 
 found them very friendly to myself, aiid never disposed to 
 assert or deny anything. One thing only I can assert about 
 tliem : they can drink great quantities of mboundou without 
 taking harm from it. And this is one great source of their 
 power over the people. 
 
 The ouganga, or doctor, is a personage whose chief powers 
 are the ability (which is real) to drink great quantities of the 
 mboundou poison, and the power (which is imaginary) to 
 discover sorcerers, and to confer powers on greegrees and 
 chaims, which, without his manijmlations, are worthless. 
 This personage enjoys, therefore, great consequence in his 
 tribe or village. His word is potent for life or death. At 
 his command — or rather at his suggestion — the village is 
 removed : men, women, and children are slain or enslaved ; 
 wars are begun and ended. 
 
 On the eve of all the more important undertakings of the 
 village or tiibe a doctor is consulted, who pretends to be able, 
 by certain ceremonies of divination, to foretell the issiie, and 
 by this they shape their conduct. It sometimes happens, too, 
 that a negro, not a doctor, is seized with the belief that ' 
 Obambou (a devil) is in his body. The bowels are the seat 
 of this possession ; and the possessed goes about in a wild 
 
Chap. XXII. MYTHS ABOUT THE GORILLA. 271 
 
 way — sees visions, dreams, and pretends to foresee future 
 events, gaining sometimes considerable temporary prestige. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 The gorilla— Habitation of the gorilla— Habits of the gorilla— His food 
 — Shyness of tl]e female gorilla — Fierceness of the male — His enormous 
 strengtli — Height of the gorilla — His appearance — Hands and feet of 
 tlie gorilla — Kanno and Pliny on tho gorilla — The cbimpanzee — Dif- 
 ference between the chimpanzee and the gorilla — Habits of young 
 chimpanzee — The nshiogo-mbouve', or bald-headed chimpanzee — The 
 nkengo nshiego — Tho kooloo-ki^iuba. 
 
 It is my good fortune to be the only white man who can 
 speak of the gorilla from personal knowledge ; and while 
 my experience and observation prove that many of the actions 
 reported of it are false and vain imaginings of ignorant 
 negroes and credulous travellers, I can also vouch that no 
 description can exceed the horror of its appearance, the 
 ferocity of the attack of the male, or the impish malignity of 
 its nature. 
 
 I am sorry to be the dispeller of such agreeable delusions ; 
 but the gorilla does not lurk in trees by the roadside, and 
 drag up unsuspicious passers-by in its claws, ami choke them 
 to death in its vice-like paws ; it does not attack the elephant, 
 and beat him to death with sticks ; it does not carry off 
 women from the native villages; it does not even build itself 
 a liouse of leaves and twigs in the foiest-troes and sit on the 
 roof, as has been confidently reported of it, and the numerous 
 stories of its attacking in great numbers have not a grain of 
 truth in them. 
 
 It lives in the loneliest and darkest portions of the dense 
 African jungles, preferring deep wooded valleys and also 
 rugged heights. The high plains also, whose surface is 
 strewn with immense boulders, seem to be favourite haunts. 
 Water occurs everywhere in this part of Africa, but I have 
 noticed that the gorilla is always found very near to a 
 plentiful supplj'. 
 
272 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXII. 
 
 It is a restless and noiiiailio beast, wandering from place 
 to place, and scarce ever fcjiind for two days together in the 
 same neighbourhood. In part this restlessness is caused by 
 the struggle it has to find its favourite food. The gorilla, 
 though it has such immense canines, and though its vast 
 strength doubtless fits it to capture and kill almost every 
 animal which frequents the forests, is a strict vegetarian. I 
 examined the stomachs of all which I was lucky enough to kill, 
 and never found traces there of aught but beriies, pine-apple 
 leaves, and other vegetable matter. It is a huge feeder, and 
 no doubt soon eats up the scant supply of its natural food 
 which is found in any limited space, and is then forced to 
 wander on in constant battle with famine. Its vast paunch, 
 which protrudes liefore it when it stands upright, proves it to 
 be a great feeder; and, indeed, its greft frame and enormous 
 muscular development could not be supported on little food. 
 
 It is not true that it lives much or at all on trees. I found 
 them almost always on the ground, although they often climb 
 the trees to pick berries or nuts, but after eating they return 
 to the ground. By the examination of the stomach of many 
 specimens, I was able to ascertain with tolerable certainty 
 the nature of its food, and I discovered that, for all I found, 
 it had no need to ascend trees. It is fond of the wild sugar- 
 cane ; especially fond of the white ribs of Ihe pine-apple leaf; 
 and also eats the pith of some trees, and a kind of nut with 
 a veiy hard shell. This shell is so hard that it requires a 
 strong blow with a heavy hammer to break it ; and here is 
 probably one purpose of that enormous strength of jaw which 
 long seemed tome thrown away on anon-carnivorous animal, 
 and which is sufficiently evidenced by the manner in which 
 tlie barrel of the musket of one of my unfortunate hunters 
 was flattened by an enraged male gorilla. 
 
 Only the young gorillas sleep on trees, for proteclion from 
 wild beasts. I have myself come upon fresh traces of a 
 gorilla's bed on several occasions, and could see that the male 
 had seated himself with liis back against a tree-trunk. In 
 fact, on the back of the male gorilla there is generally a patch 
 on which the hair is worn thin from this position, while the 
 ncst-building Trogloclytcs-calvus, or bald-headed nshiego, which 
 
Chap. XXII. FIERCENESS OF MALE GORILLA. 273 
 
 constantly sleeps under its leafy shelter on a tree-branch, has 
 this bare place at its side, and in quite a different way. I 
 believe, however, that while the male always sleeps at the 
 foot of a tree, or elsewhere on the ground, the female and the 
 young may sometimes ascend to the tree-top, as I have seen 
 marks of such ascension. 
 
 Of adults, I found almost always one male with one female, 
 though sometimes the old male wanders companionless. In 
 such cases, as with the " rogue " elejihant, he is particularly 
 morose and malignant, and dangerous to approach. Young 
 gorillas I found sometimes in companies of five ; sometimes 
 less, but never moi e. The young always run off, on all-fours, 
 shrieking with fear. They are difficult to approach, as their 
 hearing is acute, and they lose no time in making their escape, 
 while the nature of the ground makes it hard for the hunter to 
 follow after. The adult animal is also shy, and I have hunted 
 all day at times without coming ui^on my quarry, when I 
 felt sure that they were carefully avoiding me. When, how- 
 ever, at last fortune favours the hunter, and he comes 
 accidentally or by good management upon his prey, he need 
 not fear its running away. In all my hunts and encounters 
 with this animal, I never knew a grown male to run off. 
 When I surprised a pair of gorillas, the male was generally 
 sitting down on a rock or against a tree, in tlie darkest corner 
 of the jungle, where the brightest sun left its traces only in a 
 dim and gloomy twilight. The female was generally feeding 
 close by ; and it is singular that she almost always gave the 
 alarm by running off with loud and sudden cries. 
 
 The common walk of the gorilla is not on his hind legs, 
 but on all-fours. In this posture, the arms are so long that 
 the head and breast are raised considerably, and, as it runs, 
 the hind legs are brought far beneath the body. The leg and 
 arm on the same siile move together, which gives the beast a 
 curious waddle. It can run at great speed. The young, 
 parties of which I have often pursued, never took to trees, 
 but ran along the ground; and at a distance, with tlieir 
 bodies half-erect, looked not unlike negroes making off from 
 pursuit : the hind-legs moved between the arms, and those 
 were somewhat bowed outwarch I have never found the 
 
274 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXII. 
 
 female to attack, tliongh I have been told by the negroes 
 that a mother with a young one in charge will sometimes 
 make fight. It is a pretty thing to see such a mother with 
 the baby gorilla sporting about her. I have watched them in 
 the woods, till, eager as I was to obtain specimens, I had not 
 the heart to shoot. But in such cases my negro hunters 
 exhibited no ten'ler-heartedness, but killed their quarry 
 without loss of time. 
 
 When the mother runs off from the hunter, the young one 
 grasps her about the neck, and hangs beneath her breast 
 with its little legs about her body. 
 
 The strength of the gorilla is evidently enormous. That 
 with its jaws it can dent a musket barrel, and with its arms 
 break trees from four to six inches in diameter, sufficiently 
 proves that its vast bony frame has corresponding muscle. 
 The negroes never attack them with other weapons than 
 guns ; and in those parts of the far interior where no Euro- 
 pean guns had yet reached, as among the Apingi, this great 
 beast roamed unmolested, the monarch of the forest. To kill 
 a gorilla gives a hunter a life-long reputation for courage 
 and enterprise even among the bravest of the negro tribes, 
 who are generally, it may be said, not lacking in this quality 
 of courage. 
 
 The gorilla has no cries or utterances that I have heard 
 except those already desciibed — the short, sharp bark, and the 
 roar of the attacking male, and the scream of the female and 
 young when alarmed ; except, indeed, a low kind of cluck, 
 with which the watchful mother seems to call her child to 
 her. The young ones have a cry when in distress ; but 
 their voice is harsh, and it is more a moan of pain than a 
 child's crj'. 
 
 It uses no artificial weapon of offence, but attacks always 
 with its arms, though in a struggle no doubt the powerful 
 1eeth would play a part. I have several times noticoil skulls 
 in which the huge canines were broken off, not woi-n down, 
 as they are in almost all the adult gorillas bj' gnawing at 
 trees which they wished to break, and which, without being 
 gnawed into, are too strong even for them. The negroes in- 
 formed me that such teeth were broken in combats between 
 
Chap. XXII. APPFABANCE OF GORILLAS. ,275 
 
 the males for the possession of a female, and I think this 
 quite probable. Such a combat must form a magnificent 
 and awful spectacle. A struggle between two well-matched 
 gorillas would exceed, in that kind of excitement which the 
 Komans took such delight in, anything in that line which 
 they were ever gratified with. 
 
 In height adult gorillas vary as much as men. The adult 
 males in my collection range from five feet two inches to five 
 feet eight. 
 
 The colour of the skin in the gorilla, young as well as 
 adult, is intense black. This colour does not appear, how- 
 ever, except in the face, on the breast, and in the palms of 
 the hands. The hair of a grown, but not aged specimen, is 
 in colour iron-gray. The individual hairs are ringed with 
 alternate stripes of black and gray, which produces the iron- 
 gray colour. On the arms the hair is darker and also much 
 longer, being sometimes over two inches long. It grows up- 
 wards on the fore-arm and downwards on the main-arm. Aged 
 gorillas, the negroes told me, turn quite gray all over ; and I 
 have one huge male in my collection whose worn-out tusks 
 show great age, and whose colour is, in fact, a dirty gray, 
 with the exception of the long black shaggy hair on the arm. 
 The head is covered with reddish-brown hair, short, and 
 extending almost to the neck, or where the neck should be. 
 
 In the adult male the chest is bare. In the young males 
 which I had in captivity it was thinly covered with hair. In 
 the female the mammfe have but a slight development, and 
 the breast is bare. The colour of the hair in the female is 
 black, with a decided tinge of red, and not ringed as in the 
 male. The hair on the arms is but little longer than that on 
 the body, and is of a like colour. The reddish crown which 
 covers the scalp of the male is not apparent in the female till 
 she is almost grown up. 
 
 The eyes of the gorilla are deeply sunken, the immense 
 overhanging bony frontal ridge giving to the face the expres- 
 sion of a constant savage scowl. The mouth is wide, and the 
 lips are sharply cut, exhibiting no red on the eilgos, as in the 
 human face. The jaws are of tremendous weight and power. 
 The huge canines of the male, which are fully exhibited 
 
276 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXII 
 
 ■when, in his rage, he draws back his lips and shows the red 
 colour of the inside of his mouth, lend additional ferocity 
 to his aspect. In the female these canines are smaller. 
 
 The almost total absence of neck, which gives the head the 
 appearance of being set into the shoulders, is due to the back- 
 ward position of the occipital condyles, by means of which 
 the skull is set upon the trunk. The brain-case is low and 
 compressed, and the lofty ridge of the skull causes the cranial 
 
 QOEILLA S HEAD. 
 
 profile * to describe an almost straight line from the occiput 
 to the supraorbital ridge. The immense development of the 
 temporal muscles which arise from this ridge, and the corre- 
 sponding size of the jaw, are evidences of the great strength 
 of the animal. Young gorillas have twenty milk teeth, then 
 twenty-eight, subsequently increased to thirty-two. 
 
 The eyebrows are thin, but not well defined, and are almost 
 
 * The maximum brain of the mnle gorilla, as recorded up to the present 
 time, is 3405 cubic inclies ; the average of ten males, 29-70 ; the maxi- 
 mum of three females, 29'6 ; average of three females, 26. Maximum of 
 three chimpanzees, which has a much smaller boTiy head, 26 in. ; minimum, 
 22 ; nshiego-mbouve, 22 ; kooloo-kamba, 25. Tlie young usliiLgo-mbouve, 
 21 and 18, showing the slow growth of brain (P. B. Du C, 1890). 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 SIZE OF THE GORILLA'S ARM. 
 
 277 
 
 lost in the hair of the scalp. The eyelashes are thin also. 
 The eyes are wide apart ; the ears are smaller than those of 
 man, and in form closely resemble the human ear. They are 
 almost on the same parallel with the eyes. In a front view 
 of the face the nose is fl^tt, but somowhat prominent — more so 
 than in any other ape ; this is on account of a slightlj' pro- 
 jecting nose-hone. The gorilla is the only &]>& which shows 
 such a projection, and in this respect it comes nearer to man 
 than any other of the man- like apes. 
 
 The profile of the trunk shows a slight convexity. The ■ 
 
 GOEILLA, MALE. 
 
 GOEILLA, FEMALE. 
 
 chest is of great capacity ; the shoulders exceedingly broad ; 
 the pectoral regions show slightly projecting a pair of nipples, 
 as in the other apes and in the human species. The abdomen 
 is of immense size, very prominent, and rounding at the sides. 
 The arms have prodigious muscular development, and are 
 very long, extending as low as the knees. The fore-arm is 
 nearly of uniform size from the wrist to the elbow. The 
 great length of the arms and the shortness of the legs form 
 one of the chief deviations from man. The arms are not so 
 long when compared with the trunk, but they are so in com- ■ 
 parison with the legs. These are short, and decrease in sfee 
 
278 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. 
 
 Chap. SXII. 
 
 from below the knee to tlie ankle, having no calf. The 
 superior length of the arm (humerus) in proportion to the 
 
 GORILLA, FEMALE (facial angle, 51). 
 
 
 /i.y 
 
 GORILLA, MALE (facial angle, 49). 
 
 foie-arm, brings the gorilla, in that respect, in closer anthro- 
 poid affinities with man than any of the other apes. 
 
 The hands of tho animal, especially in the male, are of 
 immense size, strong, short, and thick. Tho fingers are short 
 and of great size, the circumference of the middle finger at 
 
CiiAP. XXII. FOOT OF TEE GORILLA. 279 
 
 the first joint being in some gorillas over six inches. The 
 skin on the back of the fingers, near the middle phalanx, is 
 callous and very thick, which shows that the most usual 
 mode of progression of the animal is on all-fours, and resting 
 on the knuckles. The thumb is shorter than in man, and not 
 half so thick as the forefinger. The hand is hairy as far as 
 the division of the fingers, those, as in man, being covered 
 with short thin hairs. The palm of the hand is naked, 
 callous, and intensely black. The nails are black, and shaped 
 like those of man, but smaller in proportion, and projecting 
 very slightly beyond the ends of the fingers. They are thick 
 and strong, and always seem much worn. The hand of the 
 gorilla is almost as wide as it is long, and in this it approaches 
 nearer to those of man than any of the other apes. 
 
 The foot is proportionally wider than in man. The sole is 
 callous and intensely black, and looks somewhat like a giant 
 hand of immense power and grasp. The transverse wrinkles 
 show the frequency and freedom of movement of the two 
 joints of the great toe, proving that they have a power of 
 grasp. The middle toe, or third, is longer than the second 
 and fourth, the fifth proportionally shorter, as in man. 
 
 The toes are divided into three groups, so to speak. Inside 
 the great toe, outside the little toe, and the three others 
 partly united by a web. The two joints of the great toe 
 measured, in one specimen, six and a half inches in circum- 
 ference. As a whole, the foot of the gorilla presents a great 
 likeness to the foot of man, and by far more so than in any 
 other ape. In no other animal is the foot so well adapted for 
 the maintenance of the erect position. Also, the gorilla is 
 much less of a tree-climber than any other ape. The foot in 
 tlie goiilla is longer than the hand, as in man, while in the 
 other apes the foot is somewhat shorter than the hand. The 
 hair on the foot comes to the division of the toes. With the 
 exception of the big toe, the others present a great likeness 
 to those of man, being free only above the second phalanx ; 
 they are slightly covered with thin hair and free. 
 
 The passage in the Periplus, or voj'age of Hanno, in which 
 it is supposed he alludes to the animal now known as the 
 gorilla, reads as follows : — " On the third day, having sailed 
 
280 
 
 EQUATOniAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XXII, 
 
 from thence, pa>slng the streams of fire, we came to a bay called 
 the Horn of the South. In the recess was an island like the 
 first, having a lake, and in this there was another island full 
 of wild men. But much the greater part of them were 
 women with hairy bodies, whom the interpreters called 
 
 gorillas But pursuing them, we were not able to 
 
 take the men ; they all escaped fr<;m us by their great agility, 
 being cremnohates (that is to say, climbing precipitous rocks 
 and trees), and defending themselves by throwing stones at 
 us. We took three women, who bit and tore those who 
 caught them, and were unwilling to follow. We were 
 obliged, theieforo, to kill them, and took their skins off, 
 
 GORILLA, VOimO 
 
 (facial auijlu tJ2). 
 
 GOKILLA, EED BUMP 
 
 (facial angle, 51). 
 
 GORILLA, SHEDDING TEETH 
 (facial angle, 52). 
 
 which skins wore brought to Carthage, for we did not 
 navigate f irther, provisions becoming scarce." 
 
 According to Pliny, the skins were hung in the temple of 
 Juno, and the name gorillas was changed to gorgones. Two of 
 these skins wore yet in the temple at the time when Carthage 
 was taken. " Penetravit in eas (Gorgades Insulas) Hanno 
 Poenorum imperator, prodiditque hirta feminarum corpora, 
 viros j)ernicitate evassisse, duarumque gorgonum cutes argu- 
 ment] et miraouli gratia in Juuonis tomplo posuit, spectatas 
 usque ad Carthaginem oaptam." 
 
 Of the chimpanzee (Troijlodiiies nigei-), an animal long 
 though not very thoroughly known to naturalists, I regret 
 
Chap. XXII. HABITS OF THE CHIMPANZEE. 281 
 
 that I have nothing now to state. Though found in almost 
 all the regions which I visited, it is everywhere very rare, 
 except near the Danger, Gaboon, and Capo Lopez countries. 
 I killed one and saw another in my Cape Lopez expedition ; 
 and I for a short time owned two young living specimens. 
 Both of these died, however, before I was able to make any 
 observations upon their peculiarities. 
 
 Those apes which live much in trees, as the chimpanzee, 
 have fingers on both their fore and hind feet much longer 
 than the gorilla's, which, indeed, approximate much nearer 
 to the construction of the human hand and foot, and are, by 
 reason of this different construction, less fitted for tree-climb- 
 ing. Here I may state that, though young chimpanzees are 
 often captured by the negroes of the Muni, Moonda, and 
 Gaboon rivers, which shows that they are somewhat abun- 
 dant in those regions, 1 never met with a single shelter there, 
 and consequently have come to the conclusion that they make 
 none. 
 
 The chimpanzee differs from the gorilla in these chief par- 
 ticulars : — It is a groat troe-climber, passing much of its time 
 among the branches of the great trees of tropical Africa. It 
 is, though wntameable when grown, still not fierce and malign 
 like the gorilla. It has never been known to attack man, 
 and its young are tractable and easily tamed. While the 
 gorilla resists man, the chimpanzee files to the densest woods : 
 it is therefore hunted with even greater difficulty than the 
 gorilla. 
 
 The young consort in small companies, but the adults go 
 in pairs or singly. The young have a yellow face, which 
 changes to an intense black as they grow older. They are 
 difficult to keep in a state of captivity, dying almost invari- 
 ably of consumption or dysentery. 
 
 I may observe that, though the negroes are very ingenious 
 in their contrivance of traps for nearly all the greater beasts 
 of the forest, catching by various devices not only the elephant, 
 hippopotamus, antelope, and monkeys, but even the leopard, 
 I know of no case in which an ape of any kind was caught in 
 this way. 
 
 The chimpanzee is remarkable for its unusually wide geo- 
 
282 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. XXII. 
 
 graphical range. It is found from the Gambia in almost 
 every degree of latitude down to the parallel of St. Philipe 
 Benguela. 
 
 Its food consists of berries, leaves, and nuts. So far as I 
 have been able to ascertain, it builds no shelter like the 
 nshiego-mbouve. In the Cape Lopez country I examined 
 and inquired diligently, but could find no trace of any such 
 habit, although the negroes are familiar vs^ith the animal. In 
 the Gaboon country the chimpanzee is called nshiego ; in the 
 interior it is known as the ncheko, a name which very much 
 resembles that of the leopard — n'gego. 
 
 A negro from a neighbouring village brought me a young 
 
 CHIMPANZEE. cmMPANZEE (facial angle, 54). 
 
 male chimpanzee about three years old, which had been 
 caught in tlie woods on the banks of the Npoulounay about 
 three months previously. Thomas, for so I christened my 
 little protege, was a tricky little rascal, and afforded me no 
 end of amusement; he was, however, very tame, like all 
 young chimpanzees. Unfortunately, Thomas was lame in one 
 hand, several of the fingers having been broken and healed 
 up in a distorted position. This was caused by his having 
 been maltreated by the village dogs, who were sent in chase 
 of him one day when he escaped from his captors and ran 
 into the neighbouring woods. I had Tom tied by a cord to a 
 pole ia the verandah of my hut, and fed him with cooked 
 plantains and other food from my own table. He soon got 
 to prefer cooked to raw food, and rejected raw plantains 
 
"^^Ks 
 
 
 «.■■■!■".■ .'ii. 
 5-' ■>.,.■!' 
 
 
 NSHIEGO-MBOUVE AND YOUNG, 
 
 (.Troglodytes-calvus.) 
 
 -SB!»» 
 
•28i EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Ciiai-. XX[I. 
 
 whenever they were offered to him. The difference in tam- 
 ability between the young chimpanzee and the young gorilla 
 is a fact which I have confirmed by numerous observations, 
 and I must repeat it here, as it was one of those points which 
 were disputed in my former work. A young chimpanzee 
 becomes tame and apparently reconciled to captivity in two 
 or three days after he is brought from the woods. The young 
 gorilla I have never yet seen tame in confinement, although I 
 have had four of them in custody, while still of very early age. 
 
 One day I witnessed an act of Master Thomas which seemed 
 to mo to illustrate the habits of his species in the wild state. 
 A few days after he came into my possession I bought a 
 domestic cat for my house ; as soon as the young chimpanzee 
 saw it he flew in alarm to his pole and clambered up it, the 
 hair of his body becoming erect and his eyes bright with 
 excitement. In a moment recovering himself he came down, 
 and rushing on the cat, with one of his feet seized the nape 
 of the animal, and with the other pressed on its back, as if 
 trying to break its neck. Not wishing to lose my cat, I inter- 
 fered and saved its life. The negroes say that the chimpanzee 
 attacks the leopard in this way. 
 
 The nshiego-mbouve (Troglodytes-calvus) has a much nar- 
 rower range than the chimpanzee, and even than the gorilla. 
 I found it only in the table-lands of the interior and in the 
 densest forests. I have reason to believe that it is found 
 indifferently in the haunts of the gorilla in the farther inte- 
 rior, and do not know that the two species quarrel. It differs 
 from the gorilla in being smaller, milder, far more docile, less 
 strong, and in the singular habit of building for itself a nest 
 or shelter of leaves amid the higher branches of trees. I 
 have watched, at different times, this ape retiring to its rest 
 at night, and have seen it climb up to its house and seat 
 itself comfortably on the projecting branch, with its head in 
 the dome of the roof, and its arm about the tree. 
 
 The distinctive marks of the T. calvics, those which prove 
 it to be a separate variety of the chimpanzee, may be stated 
 as follows : its head is bald, and shining black ; its temper is 
 not fierce like the gorilla's ; its j'oung is wJdte; while the 
 young gorilla is black, and the young chimpanzee yellow. 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 THE BALD-HEADED APE. 
 
 285 
 
 Its head is nearly round, and Lullet-furmed ; the nose is very- 
 fiat ; tlie ears larger than in the gorilla, but smaller than in 
 the kooloo-bamba and chimpanzee ; the eyes sunken ; the teeth 
 and canines small when compared with the gorilla's. The 
 arms reach a little below the knee. The hands are long and 
 slender ; the foot shorter than the hand. The toes are free. 
 
 NSHnEGO-MBOirVE 
 
 (facial angle, 65). 
 
 NSHIliQO-MBOUVE 
 
 (facial angle. 55). 
 
 NSHiEGO-MBOTJVE (young). 
 
 The callosities on the back of the fingers show that this 
 animal goes commonly on all-fours, and rests its weight on 
 the doubled-up hands. The hair is of one uniform rusty- 
 black colour. The male is larger than the female. I have 
 killed an old male whose skeleton seems more powerful than 
 that of any female gorilla I have seen, but I suspect it to 
 have been an uncommonly large specimen, it being much 
 larger than the other adult specimen I had. 
 
 Opposite Aniambe, on the right bank of the Fernand-Vaz, 
 I found a f'ird species of chimpanzee of a variety new to me, 
 20 
 
286 liQUATOBUL AFBIGA. Chap. XXII. 
 
 and called by the natives nkengo nschiego. It is distin- 
 guished from the coiamon form of the chimpanzee by its face 
 being yellow. All ihe specimens of the old bald-headed 
 chimpanzee that I have found had black faces, except when 
 quite young," when the face is white and not yellow, and the 
 common chimpanzee, although yellow-faced when young, 
 becomes gradually black as it grows old. There are, there- 
 fore, three varieties of the chimpanzee distinguished by the 
 negroes of Equatorial Africa. I do not here include the 
 kooloo-kainba, which appears to be very rare. 
 
 Lastly, we come to the kooloo-kamba. This ape, whose 
 
 
 ~'.«i^# ' ' 
 
 HEAD OF KOOLOO-KAMBA. 
 
 singular cry distinguishes it at once from all its congeners in 
 these wilds, is remarkable, as bearing a closer general re- 
 semblance to man than any other ape yet known. It is very 
 rare, and I was able to obtain but one specimen of it. This 
 is smaller than the adult male gorilla, and stouter than the 
 female gorilla. The head is its most remarkable point. This 
 struck me at once as having an expression curiously like to 
 an Esquimaux or Chinaman. The face is bare and black. 
 The forehead is higher than in any other ape, and the cranial 
 capacity greater by measurement proportionally to size. The 
 eyes are wider apart than in any other ape. The nose is flat. 
 The cheek-bones are high and prominent, and the cheeks 
 sunken and " lank." The ridge over the eyes is well marked. 
 The muzzle is less prominent and broader than in the other 
 
CbAP. XXII. 
 
 THE KOOLOO-KAMBA. 
 
 287 
 
 apes. The sides of the face are covered with a growth of 
 straight hair, which, meeting under the chin like 1he human 
 whiskers, gives the face a remarkably human look. The 
 
 KOOLOO-KAMBA (facial angle, 57). kooloo-kamba. 
 
 arms reach below the knee. The hair on the arms meets at 
 the elbow, growing upwards on the fore-arm and downwards 
 on the arm. The body is hairy. The shoulders are broad ; 
 the hands long and narrow, showing it to bo a tree-climber. 
 The arms and hands are very muscular. The abdomen is 
 very prominent, as it is in the gorilla. The ears are very 
 large, and are more nearly like the human ear than those of 
 
 EAE OF EOOLOO-KAMBA. 
 
 any other ape. The subjoined cut is from a drawing made 
 with great care from my specimen, and shows this singular 
 ear very correctly. 
 
288 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XXII. 
 
 SKELETON OF MAN. 
 
 Man has 
 12 (and eometimes 13) pairs of ribs, 5 lum},ar (sometimeB 4) vertebra. 
 7 corvical vertebra. 5 sacral do. 
 
 12 dorsal (and .ometimeB 13) verte- 8 carpal (wrist) bones, 
 braj. 
 
Chap. XXII. 
 
 SKELETON OF GORILLA. 
 
 289 
 
 SKELETON Of GOKILLA. 
 
 Tlie Gorilla has 
 13 pairs of ribs. 3 lumbar vertebra). 
 
 7 cervical vertebrae. 
 13 dorsal do. 
 
 6 sacral do. 
 
 8 carpal (wrist) bones. 
 
290 EQUATOItlAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIII. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 The Bakalai people — Tribes widely intermixed — Roving tendency of the 
 Bakalai — Instability of tlieir villages — Their quarrolsonie liabits — 
 Their war customs — Marriage customs — Negroes' knowledge of 
 human nature — Musical instruments. 
 
 Befoee resuming tlie narrative, I think it well to give the 
 reader some account of the Bakalai. 
 
 The Bakalai are one of the most numerous, widely extended, 
 and important tribes I met with in Equatorial Africa. Their 
 settlements are widely scattered, and they are often found 
 living in independent towns in regions chiefly occupied by 
 other tribes. How far they reach inland I cannot tell. To 
 the Ashira they were known as neighbours, and even the 
 Apingi pointed eastward towards the unknown centre of the 
 continent when I inquired for Bakalai. 
 
 These Bakalai are reputed to be very warlike, and various 
 circumstances show that they are so. They are much dreaded 
 by other tribes ; and I find that these others have left all the 
 right side of the river to their fighting neighbours. Those 
 who live on the river-bitnk, however, are in some sort bound 
 to keep the peace ; for they have no right near the water 
 but with the leave of Quenguezn, and this they get only on 
 promise of peaceable behaviour. 
 
 Their houses also show their prominent trait. They are 
 not built of split bamboos, like those farther down the river, 
 but of bark, which is peeled off large trees in slips four to 
 five feet long and a foot wide, and securely lashed on the 
 sides. This makes them tight. The walls always have open 
 strips, through which an enemy can see to shoot those inside. 
 From this danger the bark walls protect them. The houses 
 here are saiall, however, not more than twelve feet long by 
 eight wide. Tliey are generally two rooms deep, and in the 
 back room the family sleep, while in front their goods are 
 kept. In war-time they change their sleepiog-places in the 
 house eveiy niglit, so that the enemy luay be at a loss where 
 to fire when attacking from the outside. 
 
 The tribes of Western Africa are curiously intermixed, as 
 
Chap. XXIII. HABITS OF THE BAKALAl. 291 
 
 the reader will Lave seen eie this from the accounts of my 
 wanderings among them. This happens because the most 
 enterprising are always striving to get possession of the 
 rivers, which are the only highways of the country. From 
 these they drive away the weaker tribes, or lather portions 
 of tribes. 
 
 One of the peculiar traits of the Bakalai is their roving 
 character. They never stay long in one place. A Bakalai 
 village is scarce built — often the plantations have not borne 
 fruit the first time — when they feel impelled to move. Then 
 everything is abandoned ; they gather up what few stores of 
 provisions they may have, and start off, often for great dis- 
 tances, to make with infinite pains a new settlement, which 
 will be abandoned in turn, sometimes after a few months, 
 though occasionally they remain a year or two, and even 
 more, in the same place. 
 
 Many things contribute to this roving tendency, but first 
 of all is their great fear of death. They dread to see a dead 
 person. Their sick, unless they have good and near friends, 
 are often driven out of the village to die in loneliness in the 
 forest. I have twice seen old men thus driven out, nor could 
 I persuade anyone to give shelter or comfort to these friend- 
 less wretches. Once an old man, poor and naked, lean as 
 Death himself, and barely able to walk, hobbled into a 
 Bakalai village where I was staying. Seeing me, the poor 
 old fello A' came to beg some tobacco — their most cherished 
 solace. I asked him where he was going. 
 
 " I don't know." 
 
 " Where are you from ? " 
 
 He mentioned a village a few miles off. 
 
 " Have you no friends there ? " 
 
 " None." 
 
 "No son, no daughter, no brother, no sister?" 
 
 " None." 
 
 " You are sick ? " 
 
 " They drove me away for that." 
 
 " "What will you do ? " 
 
 "Die." 
 
 A few women came up to him and gave him water and a 
 
292 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIII. 
 
 little food. But the men saw death in his eyes. They drove 
 him away. He went sadly, as though knowing and submit- 
 ting to his fate. A few days after his poor lean body was 
 found in the wood. His troubles were ended. 
 
 When a man dies in a Bakalai village the stability of that 
 settlement has received a violent shock. If a second dies, 
 then the people at once move away. They think the place 
 bewitched ; they fancy death, dreaded death, stalking in their 
 midst. A doctor is called, who goes through his incantations, 
 and some poor wretch Is condemned to drink the mboundou. 
 Often several friendless creatures are accused and condemned 
 in a breath, and murdered in cold blood. Then the village is 
 broken up ; the people set out again upon their wanderings, 
 and fix upon some lonely spot for new plantations and a new 
 home. 
 
 It is as though they were all their lives vainly fleeing 
 from the dread face of death. This, indeed, is the refrain of 
 all their sad songs, the burden of every fear. Having little 
 else to lose, they seem to dread, more than any other people 
 I ever knew, the loss of life. And no wonder; for after 
 death is to them nothing. 
 
 "Death is the end." " Now we live ; by-and-by we shall 
 die ; then we shall be no more." " He is gone ; we shall 
 never see him more ; we shall never shake his hand again ; 
 we shall never hear him laugh again." This is the dolorous 
 burden of their evening and morning songs. 
 
 And still, by a strange contradiction, they are extravagantly 
 superstitious. Believing that there is no life beyond this, 
 they yet fancy a ghost or spirit in every moving tree or bush 
 after night, and in the twilight hour are sometimes over- 
 pcwvered with an undefinable dread, which makes them fear 
 to come even outside their huts. 
 
 Another cause of fear is their treacherous and quarrelsome 
 disposition. They are constantly quarielling with their 
 neighbours. I have already explained the singular ideas 
 they have of retaliation. Once I was in a village, when, on a 
 sudden, I heard great wailing among the women. I found that 
 two women had been killed bj' some persons unseen, while 
 they were standing iu the neighbouring creek, washing. 
 
Chap. XXIII. CUSTOMS OF THE BAKALAI. 293 
 
 The murderers were not known for some days. All w as 
 consternation in the village. 
 
 Then it somehow reached their ears that these women ha 1 
 been killed by men who had come from a village fifty miles 
 oif. This village had a palaver or quarrel with one nearer. 
 The'.' came down and killed two women of a village which 
 they had no quarrel with, and this made the villagers, whos9 
 relatives they had thus murdered, their allies. This singular 
 doctrine of alliance seems to be accepted by most of the 
 tribes. 
 
 When war has really broken out in the country once, there 
 is no rest nor safety. No man or woman in any village can 
 take a step in any direction, day or night, without fear of 
 death. They lay ambuscades to surprise each other's villages. 
 They shoot through the tree-bark of which their houses are 
 made, and kill sleeping persons. They use every unfiir 
 means of warfare ; and the meaner the attack and the greater 
 the treachery, the more glory they have won. In such times 
 of war fire.s are put out after dark, because they give light to 
 the enemy ; the people keep a dead silence, lest their voices 
 .should betray their whereabouts ; the hunters fear to hunt, 
 the women and slaves to j^lant, and, in consequence, every- 
 bcdy is in a condition of semi-starvation. This lasts some- 
 times for months. At last whole districts are depopulated ; 
 those who are not killed desert their villages, and all, perhaps, 
 because a man in one village stole from one in another and 
 refused satisfaction. 
 
 While I was in Obindji's village, the Bakalai chiefs and 
 people, to the number of several hundreds, met together to 
 ask justice on the head of Pende, Obindji's brother, who was 
 charged with having stolen the bones of a dead person to 
 make a fetich, which fetich would keep trade away from a 
 particular town. This palaver was very violent ; and I 
 think, if Quengueza had not been on the spot, would have 
 ended in bloodshed. Pende denied having done what he was 
 charged with, and I do not believe that anybody thought 
 him o-uilty towards the end of the fuss. Nevertheless, to 
 obtain quiet, the poor fellow had to give three slaves to the 
 three chiefs who were the principal accusers. 
 
Chap. XXIII. MABRUGE AMONG THE BAKALAI. 295 
 
 The Bakalai are of the ordinary size. The men are gene- 
 rally well made ; some are of small stature ; and I have seen 
 among them some splendid specimens of manhood. They 
 are not very black, but have iuU negro features. They are 
 not very strong, chiefly, I suppose, because they live poorly ; 
 but they have great powers of endurance, and on this account 
 make admirable hunters. 
 
 They generally prefer to marry very young girls ; and 
 often young children are regularly bargained away. In 
 this case they remain with their parents till (he age of 
 puberty. 
 
 When a man has chosen a girl, he calls on her parents and 
 explains his wishes. They put a price upon her, which he 
 pays, and then the poor girl is turned over to him. The 
 more children she has, the more her husband loves her, and 
 the greater is her importance in the town. The population 
 being small in nearly all the villages, ever)- birth is hailed 
 with joy ; and as girls have a money value, lhey are as highly 
 thought of as boys, who make hunters and wan iors. Few 
 Bakalai women have many children. Those who do have 
 their own way in many things, and are able to tyrannize 
 over their own household and rival wives. 
 
 It is a curious fact, that, though they will take their 
 brother's or father's wives in marriage, they will not marry 
 a woman of the same family or clan with themselves. This 
 is the case, also, among other tribes. 
 
 Those who live on the river have great iishing excursions, 
 which furnish them with a portion of their sustenance. 
 When the rivers recede at the approach of the dry season, the 
 waters remain behind on the plains in pools. To one of these 
 pools a village of Bakalai will come^men, women, and 
 children — and, with earthenware pots and bowls, empty out 
 the water. The poor fish, for whom no way of escape is open, 
 struggle vainly against their enemy, who finally, having 
 thrown out nearly all the water, rush in pell-mell and take 
 out the fish. These are killed, and what are not eaten on the 
 spot are smoked for future use, and thus a considerable store 
 is often laid by for a needy time. 
 
 For hunting, almost all, even of those who live far beyond 
 
296 EQUATOMIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIII. 
 
 the region wLere wliite men penetrate, make use of guns and 
 powder. These are the chief articles of trade, and are most 
 sought for by ihe natives everywhere. Tor the women beads 
 are the most valued ; and even the men do not despise 
 ornaments. 
 
 The negroes, as a rule, are the shrewdest judges of human 
 nature (hat ever I met. Lying is thought an eiiviable ac- 
 complishment among all the tribes, and a more thorough and 
 unhesitating liar than one of these negroes is not to be found 
 anywhere. A man does not, therefore, believe what another 
 says, but watches his countenance, and forms his opinions 
 from the other's looks. Now in this species of almost intuitive 
 judgment the Bakalai excels all his brethren of the other 
 tribes. Sometimes men came to Obindji and told him long 
 stories on some subject of importance. The old chief would 
 listen gravely and say nothing to the speaker, but presently 
 would come to me and say — 
 
 " The man lies." 
 
 " But how do you know ? " I would ask, knowing that the 
 man's story was perfectly straightforward and not at all 
 improbable. 
 
 " I watched his face," was the reply. " We Bakalai watch 
 the face. The words are nothing ; but the face tells us." 
 
 All the negroes are fond of music of certain kinds. The 
 tam-tam is the noisiest instrument, and is used for all dances 
 and ceremonials. But they have also a guitar, and a harp of 
 eight strings — an ingenious instrument, on which some of 
 the men play with a good deal of skill ; and some of their 
 airs were really pretty, though sad and monotonous. The 
 ombi, as this is called, is a source of great delight to them. 
 Often and often I have heard it played all night, while the 
 crowd of listeners sat in silence around the fire. While the 
 tam-tam rouses their feelings, and really throws them into a 
 frenzy, the ombi has a soothing and softening effect upon 
 them. 
 
 Both instruments are called omhi. One, which is shaped 
 like a banjo or guitar, has but four strings. The other, with 
 eight, is a harp. Both are made of thin pieces of a resonant 
 wood, sometimes covered with snake, gazelle, or goat skin. 
 
Chap. XXIII. 
 
 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 297 
 
 The strings are the long, fine, fibrous roots of a tree, and 
 answer their purpose very well. The sound of the ombi 
 with eight strings is soft and somewhat musical, and is used 
 to accompany the voice ; in such cases the airs are generally 
 plaintive. 
 
 IBEKA : MUSICAL INSTRUMENT Or THE BAKALAl. 
 
 HAEP or BAKALAl. THE STRINGS ARE MADE OUT OP THE DRIED ROOT OF A 
 SPECIES OF TREE. 
 
298 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIV. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXIV. 
 
 Aiiiitlier journey for the interior— Meeting of the people of liiagano — 
 Gooil-bye to Biagano — Arrival at Gounibi — Death of Mpomo — 
 Witchcral't ceremony — Drinking of the mboundou — Execution for 
 witchcraft — Ilogo, a spirit living in the moon— Invocation of Ilogo — 
 A species of manatee. 
 
 Having returned from Obindji to the sea coast in order to 
 deposit my collections in safety, I was, on the 10th of Octo- 
 ber, 1858, ready to leave Biagano, Eanpano's village, for 
 another expedition ; my health restored, my spirits in some 
 measure recovered, and eager for the new region. 
 
 Quengueza was still too weak to travel, so I determined to 
 start without him. 
 
 Ranpano and his people had been urging me for some time 
 not to go ; and now, when I was all ready, the old king 
 called a grand palaver, which I attended, and of which the 
 chief purpose was to persuade me not to venture into the 
 interior. 
 
 My good old friend Ranpano was really solicitous about 
 me. He made me an address, in which he informed me that 
 he had heard the interior people wanted to get me into their 
 power. They wanted to kill me, in order to make a fetich 
 of my hair. They had very many fetiches already, and 
 were very anxious to make their collection complete — so it 
 appeared. 
 
 I replied that I had no fear of them ; that, so far, I had 
 been brought back safely to them. 
 
 Then he said, "We love you. You are our white man 
 (ntangi»ii). What yon tell us we do. When you say it is 
 wrong, we do not do it. We take care of your house, your 
 goats, your fowls, your parrots, your monkeys. You are the 
 first man that settled among us, and we love you." 
 
 To which all the people answered, " Yes, we love him ! 
 He is our white man, and we have no other white man." 
 
 Then the king said, " We know that writing talks. Write 
 us, therefore, a letter to prove to your friends, if you do not 
 come back, that it was not we who hurt you." 
 
Chap. XXIV. TME OFFICE OF MAKAGA. 299 
 
 To this fullowod various objections to my going, to all of 
 whicli I was obliged to make grave answers. 
 
 Finally, when they gave me up, all exclaimed in accents 
 of wonder, " Ottangani angani (man of the white men) ! 
 what is the matter with you that you have no fear? God 
 gave j'ou the heart of a leopaid ! You were born without 
 fear ! " 
 
 More than a year ago the Commi gave me the title of 
 " malcaija," an honourable name, which only one man, and he 
 the bravest and best hunter in the tribe, may bear. The 
 office of the makaga is to lead in all desperate affairs. For 
 instance, if any one has murdered one of his fellow-villagers, 
 and the murderer's town refuses to give him up (which is 
 almost always the case, they thinking it a shame to surrender 
 anyone who has taken refuge with them), then it is the 
 business of the makaga to take the best men of the villages, 
 lead them to the assault of that which protects the murderer, 
 and destroy that, with its inhabitants. It is remarkable 
 that, in all the Commi country, the murder of a free man is 
 punished with the death of the niuiderer. My title was 
 rather an honorary one, as I was never called on to execute 
 justice among them. 
 
 At last Eanpano gave me sixteen men to take me to 
 Goumbi, from where Quengueza's people were to help me 
 forward. 
 
 Quengueza sent orders to his brother, who acted as his 
 vice-regent at Goumbi, to give me as many people as I 
 wanted, and to afford me protection as far as I needed it; 
 and especially named Adoimia to be the chief of the party 
 who were to accompany me to the Ashira country. 
 
 When all this was done, there was, according to African 
 custom, a formal leave-taking. Quengueza's men, Eanpano's, 
 and mine gathered before the old king, who solemnly bade 
 us God-speed, taking my two hands in his and blowing upon 
 them, as their custom is ; saying, " Go thou safely, and 
 return safely," and so I bid good-bye to Biagano. 
 
 We arrived at Goumbi on the 13th October, after meeting 
 with two very heavy storms of wind and rain on the way. 
 The people asked after their king, who had gone away well, 
 
300 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIV. 
 
 and whom, they thought, I ought to have brought back in 
 the same condition. 
 
 I was asked to go and see an old friend of mine, Mpomo, 
 who was now sick. They had spent the night before drum- 
 ming about his bedside to drive out the devil. But I soon 
 saw that neither drumming nor medicine would help the 
 poor fellow. The film of death was already in his ej'es, and 
 I knew he could scarce live through the approaching night. 
 He held out his hand to me in welcome, and feebly said, 
 " Chally, save me, for I am dying." 
 
 He was then surrounded by hundreds of people, most of 
 them moved to tears at their friend's pitiable condition. 
 
 I explained to hiru that I bad no power to save him. But 
 he and those all around had the conviction that, if only I 
 wished, I could cure him. They followed me to my house, 
 asking for medicine ; and at last, not to seem heartless, I 
 sent him a restorative — something, at least, to make his re- 
 maining moments easy. At the same time 1 warned them 
 that he would die, and thej' must not blame me for his death. 
 This was necessary, for their ignorance makes them very 
 suspicious. 
 
 When I awoke next morning I heard the mournful wail 
 which proclaimed that poor Mpomo was gone to his long 
 rest. This cry of the African mourners is the saddest I ever 
 heard. 
 
 In the last moments of a Commi man who lies at the point 
 of death, his head-wife comes and throws herself by him on 
 his bed. Then, encircling his form with her arms, she sings 
 to him songs of love, and pours out a toirent of endearing 
 phrases, all the village standing by uttering wailings and 
 shedding tears. Such a scene was always very touching 
 to me. 
 
 When I went to Mpomo's house I saw his poor wives sitting 
 in tears upon the ground, throwing moistened ashes and dust 
 over their bodies, shaving their heads, and rending their 
 clothes. 
 
 In the afternoon I heard talk of witchcraft. 
 
 The mourning lasted for two days. On the 17th the body, 
 already in a state of decomposition, was put in a canoe and 
 
CHAr. XXIV. TEE FJiAU UF WITCBCilAFT. 301 
 
 takt'ii to the cernutoiy of the Gouiubi people down tlie river 
 some fifty miles. It was pitiable to see the grief of his poor 
 wives. They seemed to have really loved him, and sorrowed 
 for him now that he was dead, as they had earefully and 
 lovingly attended upon him tilf he died. I saw them, on the 
 night of his death, weeping over him, one after the other 
 taking him in her arms. It was a strange sight. In these 
 sorrowful moments there was no sign of jealousy between the 
 poor women, that I could see. All were united by their love 
 ibr the same object. 
 
 Those who have studied the African character, and know 
 how much they are gi\'en to dissimulation, cannot be certain 
 whether the display of love comes from real sorrow or not. 
 Of course, every wife ought to appear much distressed, for, 
 sliould they not show a profound sorrow they would certainly 
 be accused of bewitching their husbands. I have even known 
 cases where the mother was killed as the cause of the death 
 of her own child. 
 
 On the day Mpomo was buried proceedings were begun to 
 discover the persons who had bewitched the poor fellow. 
 They could not be persuaded that a 30ung man, hale and 
 hearty but a few weeks ago, could die by natural causes. A 
 great doctor was brought from up the river, and for two 
 nights and days the rude scenes which I have already once 
 given an account of were repeated. 
 
 At last, on the third morning, when the excitement of the 
 people was at its height — when old and young, male and 
 female, were frantic with the desire for revenge on the 
 sorcerers — the doctor assembled them about him in the centre 
 if the town, and began his final incantation, which should 
 disclose the names of the murderous ^orcerers. 
 
 Every man and boy was armed, some with spears, some 
 with swords, some wiih guns and axes, and on every face 
 was shown a determination to wreak bloody vengeance on 
 those who should be pointed out as the criminals. The whole 
 town was wrapt in an indescribable fury and horrid thirst for 
 huuiau blood. For the first time I found my voice without 
 authority in Goumbi. I did not even got a hearing. What 
 I said was passed by as though no one had spokon. As a last 
 21 
 
302 SQUATOSIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIV, 
 
 threat, when I saw proceedings begun, I said I w-ould make 
 Quengueza punish them for the murders done in his absence. 
 But alas ! here they had outwitted me. On the day of 
 Mpomo's death they had sent secretly to Quengueza, who 
 was on the sea-coast, to ask if thoy could kill the witches. 
 He, poor man ! sick himself, and always afraid of the power 
 of sorcerers, and without me to advise him, at once sent 
 back word to kill them all without mercy. So they almost 
 laughed in my face. 
 
 Finding all my endeavours vain, and that the work of 
 bloodshed was to be carried through to its dreadful end, I 
 determined, at least, to see how all was conducted. 
 
 At a motion from the doctoi-, the people became at once 
 quite still. This sudden silence lasted about a minute, when 
 the loud, harsh voice of the doctor was heard — 
 
 "There is a very black woman, who lives in a house" 
 — describing it fully, with its location — " she bewitched 
 Mpomo." 
 
 Scarce had he ended when the crowd, roaring and screaming 
 like so many hideous beasts, rushed frantically f(jr the place 
 indicated. They seized upon a poor girl named Okandaga, 
 the sister of my good friend and guide Adouma. Waving 
 their weapons over "her head, tliey tore her away towards the 
 waterside. Here she was quickly bound with cords, and then 
 all rushed away to the doctor again. 
 
 As jjoor Okandaga passed into the hands of her murderers, 
 she saw me, though I thought I had concealed myself from 
 view. I turned my head away, and prayed she might not 
 see me. I could not help her. But presently I heard her cry 
 out, " Chally, Chally, do not let me die ! " 
 
 It was a moment of terrible agony to me. For a minute I 
 was minded to rush into the crowd and attempt the rescue of 
 the poor victim. But it would have been of not the slightest 
 use. The people were too frantic and crazed to even notice 
 my presence. I should only have sacrificed my own life 
 without helping her. So I turned away into a corner behind 
 a tree, and — I may confess, I trust — shed bitter tears at my 
 utter powerlessness. 
 
 Presently silence again fell upon the crowd. Then the 
 
Ohap. XXIV. A TERRIBLE WITCHCRAFT SCENE. 303 
 
 harsh voice of the devilish doctor again rang over the town. 
 It seemed to me like the hoarse croak of some death-fore- 
 telling raven — 
 
 " There is an old woman in a house " — describing it — " she 
 also bewitched Mpomo." 
 
 Again the crowd rushed off. This time they seized a niece 
 of King Quengueza, a noble-hearted and rather majestic old 
 woman. As they crowded about her with flaming eyes and 
 threats of death, she ruse proudly from the ground, looked 
 them in the face unflinchingly, and, motioning them to keep 
 their hands off, said, " I will drink the mboundou ; but woe 
 to my accusers if I do not die ! " 
 
 Then she, too, was escorted to the river, but without being 
 bound. She submitted to all without a tear or a murmur for 
 mercy. 
 
 Again, a third time the dreadful silence fell upon the town, 
 and the doctor's voice was heard — 
 
 " There is a woman with six children. She lives on a 
 plantation towards the rising sun. She, too, bewitched 
 Mpomo." 
 
 Again there was a furious shout, and in a few minutes 
 they brought to the river one of Quengueza's slave-women, a 
 good and much- respected woman, whom also I knew. 
 
 The doctor now approached with the crowd. In a loud 
 voice he recited the crinie of which these women were accused. 
 The first taken, Okandaga, had— so he said — some weeks 
 before asked Mpomo for some salt, he being her relative. 
 Salt was scaice, and he had refused her. She had said un- 
 pleasant words to him then, and had by sorcery taken his 
 life. 
 
 Then Quengueza's niece was accused. She was barren, and 
 Mpomo had children. She envied him. Therefore she had 
 bewitched him. 
 
 Quengueza's slave had asked Mpomo for a looking-glass. 
 He had refused her. Therefore she had killed him with 
 sorcery. 
 
 As each accusation was recited the people broke out into 
 curses. Even the relatives of the poor victims were obliged 
 to join in this. Every one rivalled his neighbour in cursing, 
 
Chap. XXIV. BEATS OF OKANDAGA. 305 
 
 each fearful lest lukewarniness in the ceremony should expose 
 him to a like fate. 
 
 Next the victims were put into a large canoe with the 
 executioners, the doctor, and a number of other people, all 
 armed. 
 
 Then the tam-tams were beaten, and the proper persons 
 prepared the mboundou. Quabi, Mpomo's eldest brother, held 
 the poisoned cup. At sight of it poor Okandaga began again 
 to cry, and even Quengueza's niece turned pale in the face — 
 for even the negro face has at such times a pallor which is 
 quite perceptible. Three other canoes now surrounded that 
 in which the victims were. All were crowded with armed 
 men. 
 
 Then the mug of mboundou was handed to the old slave- 
 woman, next to the royal niece, and last to Okandaga. As 
 they drank, the multitude shouted, " If they are witches, let 
 the mboundou kill thim ; if they are innocent, let the 
 mboundou go out." 
 
 It was the most exciting scene of my life. Though horror 
 almost froze my blood, my eyes were riveted upon the 
 spectacle. A dead silence now occurred. Suddenly the slave 
 fell down. She had not touched the boat's bottom ere her 
 head was hacked off by a dozen rude swords. 
 
 Next came Quengueza's niece. In an instant her head was 
 off, and the blood was dyeing the waters of the river. 
 
 Meantime poor Okandaga staggered, and struggled, and 
 • cried, vainly resisting the working of the poison in her 
 system. Last of all she fell too, and in an instant her head 
 was hewed off. 
 
 Then all became confused. An almost random hacking 
 ensued, and in an incredibly short space of time the bodies 
 were cut in small pieces, which were cast into the river. 
 
 When this was done the crowd dispersed to their houses, 
 and for the rest of the day the town was very silent. Some 
 of these rude people felt that their number, in their already 
 almost extinguished tribe, was becoming less, and the dread of 
 death filled their hearts. In the evening poor Adouma came 
 secretly to my house to unburden his sorrowing heart to me. 
 Ho, too, had been com^iellcd to take part in the dreadful 
 
306 EQUATOIilAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIV 
 
 scene. He dared not even refrain from joining in the curses 
 heaped upon his poor sister. He dared not mourn publicly 
 for her who was considered so great a criminal. 
 
 Before leaving Goumbi, a grand effort was made by the 
 people to ascertain the cause of their king's sufferings. 
 Quengueza had sent word by my men to his people to consult 
 Hof/o, a spirit said to live in the moon. The rites were very 
 curious. To consult Ilogo, the time must be near full moon. 
 Early in the evening the women of the town assembled in 
 front of Quengueza's house, and sang songs to and in praise 
 of Ilogo, the spirit of Ogouayli (the moon), the latter name 
 being often rejieated. Meantime a woman was seated in the 
 centre of the circle of singers, who sang with them, and 
 looked constantly towards the moon. She was to be inspired 
 by the spirit, and to utter prophecies. 
 
 Two women made trial of this post without success. At 
 last came a third, a little woman, wiry and nervous. When 
 she seated herself the singing was redoubled in fury; the 
 excitement of the people had had time to become intense ; 
 the drums beat ; the outsiders shouted madly. Presently the 
 woman, who, singing violently, had looked constantly towards 
 the moon, began to tremble. Her nerves twitched ; her face 
 was contorted ; her muscles swelled ; and at last her limbs 
 straightened out, and she lay extended on the ground, 
 iu.sensible. 
 
 The excitement was now intense and the noise horrible. 
 The songs to Hogo were not for a moment discontinued. The 
 words were little vai ied, and were to this purport : — 
 
 " Ilogo, we ask thee I 
 Tell who lias bewitched the king ! 
 
 "Ilogo, we ask thee, 
 What shall we do to cure the king? 
 
 " The forests are thine, Ilogo ! 
 The rivers are thhie, Ilogo I 
 The moon Is thine ! 
 O moon I O moon I O moon ! 
 Thou art the house of Ilogo! 
 Shall the king die? O Ilogo I 
 Ilogo ! O moon I O moon I " 
 
Chap. XXIV. ILOGO, THE SPIRIT OF THE MOON. 307 
 
 These words were repeated again and again, with little 
 variation. The woman, who lay for some time insensible, 
 was then supposed to be able to sec things in the world ot 
 Ilogo, and was expected to bring back a report thereof. When 
 she at last came to her senses, after half an hour's insensibility, 
 she looked very much prostrated. She averred that she had 
 Seen Ilogo ; that he had told her Quengueza was not bewitched ; 
 that a remedy prepared from a certain plant would cure him ; 
 and so on. I am convinced the woman believed what she 
 said, as did all the people. It was a very curious instance of 
 the force of imagination and extreme excitement combined. 
 
 Abuse is the negro's forte and his delight. 
 
 " Your chief has the leg of an elephant ! " sings one ; and 
 another — 
 
 " Ho ! his eldest brother has the neck of a wild ox ! " 
 
 " Your women are dirty and ugly ! " 
 
 " You_ have no food in your village, poor fellows. Ho ! 
 ho!" 
 
 And so they go on pouring out ridicule upon the discom- 
 fited foe. Nothing touches a negro so quickly as ridicule. 
 
 The morning after our arrival at Acaca we set off in small, 
 very flat canoes, made for hunting the Manga. A manga 
 doctor accompanied us. We went into the Niembai, on 
 whose grassy bottom the manga, or manatee, dwells, and here 
 stationed the boat among the high reeds which lined the 
 shore. The doctor spread a powder he had in a pouch 
 thickly on the water, and returned then towards the reeds. 
 Presently, while we kept silence, a great beast came to the 
 •surface, and began greedily sucking in the powder. Imme- 
 diately they stole upon it with the canoe, and, when they got 
 near enough, fastened a harpoon to it. To this was attached 
 a long strip of native rope. The animal immediately made 
 for the bottom, but in a few minutes came to the top, and 
 presently, after some struggles, died. 
 
 Before it was cut up the manga doctor went through some 
 ceremonies which I did. not see, and nobody was permitted to 
 see the aiiimal while he was cutting it up. 
 
 This manga is a new species of manatee. Its body is of a 
 dark lead colour ; the .skin is smooth, very thick, and covered 
 
308 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 in all paits wilh single bristly hairs from half an inoh to an 
 inch ill length. The e^ es are verj' small ; the paddles are 
 without nails. The specimen we killed was ten feet h'ng. 
 Its circumference was very considerable, but I could not get 
 at it to measure it. This animal feeds on the leaves and 
 grass growing on the river-banks. 
 
 The people were greatly rejoiced. The beast weighed 
 about 1500 pounds, as I calculate from its requiring eighteen 
 men to drag it, and the meat is delicious— something like 
 pork, but finer grained and of a sweeter flavour. To-night, 
 all hands were smoking it. The doctor was greatly rejoiced 
 at his success, and jjraised himself to me at a great rate. But 
 I could not discover the composition of his powder, which 
 was certainly quite efBcacious. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXV. 
 
 Arrival at Mpopo — Drath of Qiierliiouen — Obindji enjoins Okendjo to take 
 care of me — A cheery evening — Our entry into Ashira Land — Arrival 
 at Akoonga — King Olcnda sends men to fetch me — Extraordinary 
 appearance of King Olenda — He receives me with great honour — The 
 Ashira plain — Numerous villages — Appearance of the Ashira people 
 — Dress — Mode of dressing the hair — Women's toilette — Pernicious 
 effect of smoking wild hemp — Story of a leopard attacking a gorilla 
 — Shelter of the nahiego-mbouve — Starvation — Scramble for my cut 
 hair. 
 
 On tlie 24th of October, 1859, we started for the interior. 
 When we got to Mpopo I found my men would not be able to 
 carry all my luggage. I had to hire more. The chief asked 
 his wives to furnish some slaves for me, but they asked such 
 a pi ice for their services that I would not give it. It is 
 curious how seldom a husband in this country interferes with 
 that property which he has given to his wives. The women 
 jealously guard their rights in this respect, and so long as 
 they feed their husbands and make 'them comfortable, they 
 are not, in many things, subject to male rule at all. 
 
 As wo approached Obindji's village,'we came to the planta- 
 tion of my old fiiend Querlaouen. I got out of the canoe. 
 
Chap. XXV. DEATH OF QUERLAODEN. . 309 
 
 and went ashore to greet the good old African and his wife 
 and children, for whom I had brought presents such as they 
 wished. But alas! I found no house or plantation. The 
 place was deserted ; the jungle was thickest where his little 
 clearing had been, and I walked back with disappointed 
 and foreboding heart. On the river-bank I met a Bakalai, 
 who told me poor Querlaouen's story. Some months before 
 the old hunter had gone out after an elephant. His slave 
 who was with him heard the report of the gun, and, finding 
 that his master did not return, set out to seek him. He 
 found him in the forest, dead, and trampled into a shape- 
 less mass by the beast, which he had wounded mortally, but 
 which had strength enough left to rush at and kill its enemy. 
 The poor body was brought in and buried. But now came 
 in the devilish superstitions of the Africans. This family 
 really loved each other. They lived together in peace and 
 unity. But the people declared that Querlaouen's brother 
 had bewitched him and caused his death. The brother was 
 killed by the mboundou ordeal, and the women and children 
 had gone to live wath those to whom they belonged by the 
 laws of inheritance, and were thus scattered in several 
 villages. 
 
 On the 26th we got to Obindji's village. The old fellow 
 was rejoiced to see me, and here I got several Ashira men 
 and two Bakalai, which makes my troupe up to thirty-two 
 men all told, and sets me on my way rejoicing. 
 
 One of the Ashira fellows was here last spring when I was 
 here. He had brought a slave to Obindji to sell for him, and 
 he had been waiting for the proceeds ever since. He might 
 have waited a year or two longer if I had not come, and he 
 would have done so quite willingly. The creditor in such 
 case lives with the debtor. Okendjo was fed by Obindji's 
 wives ; and to comfort and cheer him while he was waiting, 
 Obindji gave him one of his own wives — a hospitable custom 
 in this part of Africa, which a man is always expected to ob- 
 serve towards his visitors. Whenever I entered a strange 
 village, the chief always made haste to place apart, and often 
 his whole harem at my service. Time was literally of no 
 account to Okendjo. Ob'ndji's village was as jolly a place 
 
310 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 as any village of his own country. And perhaps in a few 
 months his goods would come. So the days went on plea- 
 santly with him. 
 
 When he heard my destination mentioned, he at once con- 
 ceived the brilliant idea of having the honour of guiding the 
 first white man to his king, and thus gaining imperishable 
 renown to himself. I was very glad to have him, as he was 
 a very intelligent negro. 
 
 Early on the 27tli we were awakened by the voice of 
 Obindji, who was recommending Okeudjo to take great care 
 of " his white man," and see that nothing hurt him. We 
 were soon under weigh. Our road led up the Ofoubou for 
 some three miles and a half. Then we struck off due east, 
 and after half an hour's arduous travel we got through the 
 marshy bottom land which bounds the river, and stood at the 
 foot of a mountain ridge, along which lay the route to 
 Ashira-land. Here we gave three cheers, and with great 
 hopes I led the way into a new terra incognita. 
 
 By five that night, when we encamped, we had advanced 
 in a straight line about twenty miles from the Ofoubou. 
 The country was mountainous, very rugged, and very 
 thickly wooded with great trees. The ground was in many 
 places thickly strewn with the immense boulders which I 
 had noticed in my journey to the Fans, only here quartz 
 rock was more abundant. Numerous streams of the purest 
 and most ery.stalline water rolled in every direction, tumbling 
 over the rocks in foaming cascades, or purling along in a bed 
 of white pebbles. 
 
 Our camp was full of life this evening. The men were 
 rejoicing in anticipation of great trade in slaves and ivory, 
 and gave their imagination full swing. When trade was ex- 
 hausted, they rejoiced over the wives they would get among 
 the Ashira, where they expect, as strangers from a far land, 
 to be sumptuously entertained. And at last Okendjo capped 
 their pleasure by promising them great feasts of goats and 
 plantains, the Goumbi and Bakalai regarding Ashira-land as 
 the country of goats and plantains. 
 
 We were kept awake between one and three o'clock by the 
 roarings of a leopard, which, however, could not face the 
 
Chap. XXV. TOWASDS ASEIEA-LAND. 311 
 
 fire, which we had kept blight, so he could not make his 
 breakfast upon one of us as he desired. But neither did I 
 think it quite safe to venture into the gloom after him. 
 
 This day the country was much as yesterday. Ebony 
 grows in great abundance. The poorer the soil, the taller 
 the trees, and the more numerous do these trees become. In 
 many places the rains had washed away the soil from the 
 immense and wide-spreading roots which ran along the 
 ground looking like huge serpents. To-day we saw for the 
 first time a tree new to me, and which uiy men called the 
 indoonoo. It has an immense girth, and is a much taller and 
 better shaped tree than the baobab, which is not found in 
 this part of Africa. I measured one, of only moderate size, 
 which had fallen down, and found it, at some feet from the 
 base, eight feet in diameter. 
 
 The blocks of quartz grow larger and larger as we pro- 
 ceed. To-day there were some which were really stupendous 
 masses, and it was a most curious sight to see our caravan 
 filing between two such ponderous blocks, looking like pig- 
 mies alongside of these huge boulders. 
 
 Towards evening, at last, we began to see signs of a 
 change in the face of the country. Plantations could be seen 
 from time to time ; the soil became more clayey ; and at last 
 we emerged from the immense forest. I saw spread out 
 before me the great Ashira prairie-land, dotted plentifully 
 with villages, which looked in the distance like ant-heaps. I 
 stood for a long time on the edge of a bluff, taking in this, 
 one of the finest Lindscapes I ever saw in my life. Far as 
 the eye could reach was a high rolling prairie. As I after- 
 wards discovered, the plain is about fifty- five miles long by 
 ten wide. All over this vast jjlain were scattered collections 
 of little Ashira huts. The hills and valleys were streaked 
 with ribbon-like paths, and here and there the eye caught 
 the silver i-heen of a brook winding along through the undu- 
 lating land. In the far distance loomed up mountains 
 higher than any I had yet seen, and whose peaks were lost in 
 the clouds. It was a grand sight. 
 
 To make our entry into Ashira-land properly, Okendjosent 
 two men ahead to announce, that " the spirit" was coming to 
 
312 EQUATORIAL AFMICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 see them, and that he (Okendjo) had been selected as his 
 guide. Soon, in the nearest village, we began to see people 
 moving about hurriedly, and in half an hour the whole plain 
 knew something had occurred. Meantime those nearest us 
 came out to meet us, and we moved forward to them. When 
 they saw me, all stopped, and the majority turned back with 
 awe and alarm depicted on their faces. We continued to 
 advance slowlj'. It was nearly dusk when we entered the 
 nearest village. But very few of the people dared to 
 approach me ; and even those took to flight if I fixed my 
 eye upon them, evidently fearing I would do them a 
 mischief. 
 
 Okendjo walked ahead of me, proclaiming, in a most 
 magniloquent manner, the many virtues of the great white 
 man or spirit whom he had brought to see his countrymen. 
 And the ciovvd answered to his words in shouts, " Then tan- 
 gani has come ! The spirit has come to see our land — our 
 land, which he never saw before ! " 
 
 It happened luckily that the chief of the first 'Village we 
 came to was a brother of Okendjo. Akoonga met us at the 
 entrance of his place, and said, " Is it true, Okendjo, what I 
 hear, that you bring to us this man ? Is it not an hallucina- 
 tion of my mind, occasionerl by too much palm-wine ? Is he 
 the spirit who makes the guns, the cloth, the beads, the brass 
 rods, and the copper lings? " 
 
 Okendjo ri<plied, " He is the man. This is he of whom 
 you have heard so mucb. He comes from a far country to 
 see us." 
 
 Then the people shouted. A house was given me, and 
 when I had taken possession the chief came, followed by ten 
 of his wives, each bearing two bunches of plantains, which, 
 with fear and trembling, they deposited at my feet. Next 
 were brought four goats, twenty fowls, several baskets of 
 grouud-uuts, and many bunches of sugar-cane. 
 
 When these were delivered, Akoonga said to Okendjo, 
 " Tell the spirit that I thank him that he stays in my village 
 a night. Tell him he is welcome, and all those who follow 
 him. He is the master while he is here. This food is for 
 him. As fiir his people, my women will cook for them." 
 
Chap. XXV. KING OLENDA'S MESSENGERS. 313 
 
 I thanked him. 
 
 Then, showing me the house, he said, " It is your house ; 
 TLiy wives aio yours ; my slaves are yours ; my people are 
 yours." 
 
 After supper, being tired, I lay down, but was not yet 
 asleep when I heard the chief say to his people, " Be silent ; 
 do not trouble the spirit ; do not speak lest you awake him. 
 Neither our forefathers nor ourselves ever saw such a wonder 
 as this." 
 
 The consequence of this kind and very unusual forethought 
 was that I enjoyed a very good night's rest. 
 
 By my reckoning, the village of Akoonga is two hundred 
 and forty miles east from Cape Lopez. 
 
 Early next morning the rush of people began. They were 
 less afraid than on the evening before, and crowded around 
 me in such masses th;it 1 was nearly stifled. As usual, my 
 hair was the great object of wonder to them. I stood it as 
 long as I could, biit at last had to ask the chief to send them 
 away. Not to disappoint their cuiiosity too much, I con- 
 sented to walk through the streets at intervals of an hour or 
 two, and thus give all an opportunity to look at me. 
 
 In the morning, Olenda, the king or head chief of the 
 Ashiras, sent two messengers with presents of goats and plan- 
 tains, and a desire that I should come to his town. I sent 
 back word that I would the day after to-morrrow ; to-day my 
 feet were too sore. 
 
 The king sent word that I should be carried if I would 
 come. 
 
 I replied that I would come on the day I had appointed. 
 That I never broke my word nor ever changed my mind. 
 
 Accordingly, on November 2nd, early in the morning, I 
 was aroused by King Olenda's jieople, who had come to escort 
 me with singing and dancing. I took leave of Akoonga, 
 giving him a present of one hundred yards of cloth, and some 
 beads, and an old shirt, whereat he was vastly delighted. 
 
 My men had now easy times. My baggage was carried 
 altogether by the Ashira, who marched ahead singing wild 
 songs celebrating my arrival among them. After a journey 
 of ten miles over the grassy prairie we came to Olenda's 
 
814 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 village, which may be called the capital of the tribe. I was 
 coiiclucted to the best house in the place ; and, after waiting 
 half-an-houi-, the ringing of the kendo announced the apiproach 
 of the king. 
 
 At last King Olenda stood before me — a most surprising 
 object indeed. He was an old, old man, with wool as white 
 as snow, face a mass of wrinkles, and body thin, lean, and 
 bent almost double with age. He had painted his haggard 
 old face red on one side, and. white on the other, in streaks, 
 and, as he stood before me, I wondered as much at his appear- 
 ance as did he at mine. 
 
 When we had looked at each other for some five minutes he 
 made me a formal address in Ashira, which was translated 
 for me by Okendjo. He said, " I have no bowels. I am like 
 the Ovenga Eiver ; I cannot be cut in two. But also I am 
 like the Niembai and Ovenga rivers, which unite together. 
 Thus my body is united, and nothing can divide it." 
 
 This gibberish, which may possibly have had some mystic 
 significance, I afterwards discovered was the regular and in- 
 variable salutation of the Ashira kings, Olenda's predecessors, 
 time out of mind. Each chief and important person has such 
 A salutation, which they call Icomho. 
 
 Then he continued : " You, the spirit, have come to see 
 Olenda. You, the spirit, have put your feet where none like 
 you have ever been. You are welcome." 
 
 Here the old king's son, also a very old negro, with snow- 
 white wool, handed over to the king two slaves, which the 
 king formally presented to me, together with three goats, 
 twenty bunches of plantains, twenty fowls, five baskets of 
 ground-nuts, and several bunches of sugar-cane. 
 
 " This," said he, " is to salute you. Whatever else you 
 want, tell me. I am the king of this country. Whatever 
 else you wish, let it be known to me." 
 
 I replied that slaves I did not want. 
 
 Then more of the old man's children came ; all old, and 
 wrinkled, and white-headed men. They stood before me, re- 
 garding me vdth wonder and awe ; while the people, of whom 
 thousands were gathered from all the villages of the prairie, 
 looked on in silence, and expressed their surprise in whispers. 
 
Cnsv. XXV. KING OLENDA WELCOMES ME. 315 
 
 At last the old king turned to his people and said, " I have 
 seuu many things in my life, and many wonderful things, and 
 now I am ready to die, for I have seen the spirit from whom 
 we reoeixe all things. It will always he said in our nation 
 by those coming after us, that in the time of Olenda the spirit 
 first appeared and dwelt among us. You are welcome " 
 (turning to me). " Keep this spirit well " (to his people) ; 
 " he will do us good." 
 
 Nob. 9th. — The last week has been devoted to seeing and 
 being seen. From all the one hundred and fifty villages of 
 the plain the people have streamed to Olenda's town to see 
 " the spirit." They come in the night, sleep on the ground 
 outside the town, and in the morning crowd about me, 
 following me with curious gaze, wondering at my hair, and 
 trying, unobserved, to get a glance at my eyes. The moment 
 I look at them they run off, especially the women and children. 
 The African has a great dread of the steady look of a white 
 man's eye. They believe it has an evil-working influence, 
 and it is certainly a potent weapon to reduce a refractory or 
 turbulent crowd. Even the bravest warrior will quail 
 beneath the steady glance of a white man. 
 
 My clock is an object of constant wonder to them. They 
 think it watches over me. Its constant ticking day and night 
 is noticed, and this, to them, denotes the watchfulness of my 
 familiar. Nothing could persuade them that a musical-box, 
 which I sometimes wound up and caused to play for them, 
 was not a very powerful devil in my employ. And, though 
 they have a few guns and knew their use, my revolver excited 
 not only their admiration, but a superstitious kind of rever- 
 ence. They could not comprehend a machine which could 
 fire time after time right ahead without stopping. 
 
 The Ashira plain, which I have in this week to some extent 
 explored, is the finest and most delightful country I had seen 
 in Africa. The soil is light, but tolerably good. The undu- 
 lations of the prairie, which is, in fact, a tnble-land surrounded 
 on all sides by higher mountains, give the landscape a 
 charming variety. The surrounding mountains, the splendid 
 peak of the Nkoomoo-nabouali on the north, the Andele and 
 Ofoubou to the south, the peaks of Ococoo to the east, are all 
 
316 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 covered with dense masses of forest, and lend a solemn 
 majesty to the scene, from whatever point it is viewed. 
 They thoroughly disclose the great prairie, their forests 
 reaching to the very feet of the hills. 
 
 I learned from the natives that beyond the Nkoomoo- 
 naboTiali I'ange a sujperb cataract was known. A stream 
 called the Eembo Ngouyai runs through a high defile, and 
 finally falls into the plain down an abrupt precipice, resuming 
 its course around the very base of the mountain. Its roar 
 fills the whole surrounding country, and its vapour rises 
 along the sides of the mouHtain into a magnificent rainbowed 
 column visible at a great distance. This great fall is called 
 the Samba Nagoshi. 
 
 The villages were so scattered at random that I could not 
 
 A BOLL OF ASHIEA TOBAOOO. 
 
 make an accurate count of them, but there are between 160 
 and 200. They are the neatest I have seen in Afiica. The 
 houses are small, but cleanly, and built of tree-bark. The 
 village is generallj' composed of one long street, with houses 
 on each side. The streets are kept very clean ; and this is 
 the only tribe where the ground at the back of the houses is 
 also cleared off. The villages are surrounded by thousands 
 of plantain trees, and regular paths connect them with each 
 other. I learned that villages are removed, as among other 
 tribes, for death or witchcraft, but not beyond the plains. 
 
 Behind every village, in particular near the boundary of the 
 forest, are great plantations, carried on with much industry, 
 and where tobacco, peanuts, plantains, yams, and sugar-cane 
 are grown in quantities which make this a land of plenty, 
 
Chap. XXV. APPEARANCE OE THE ASHIRAS. 317 
 
 where no man starves. Bushes of wikl cotton were seen now 
 and then, but not in great plenty. As I stood on one of the 
 highest hills which diversify the plain, and cast my eyes over 
 the scene, the yellow waving grass and cane fields contrasting 
 with the dark green of the forest, reminded me strongly of 
 the harvest fields of my home, and gave the landscape a 
 charm of homely rural beauty which is lacking elsewhere in 
 this part of Africa, where all is wild and grand, but where 
 the traveller's heart often aches for something which shall 
 remind him of home. 
 
 The people are among the finest I had seen in Africa. 
 They are evidently a distinct peojtle, for the Bakalai and 
 other tribes who surround them are much lighter coloured. 
 The Ashira are invariably coal-black. The women, in par- 
 ticular, have fine forms, and, though they have full negro 
 features, many of the young women have a grace of carriage 
 
 ASHIRA THEEAD AND NEEDLE. 
 
 and a sprightlincss of manner which is something quite 
 un-African. 
 
 The dress of the men and married women consists of a 
 flowing garment called a ndengui, which is made of a kind of 
 cloth woven by them, and which I found, in many cases, of 
 very fine and tolerably even texture. The thread which is 
 used is ©btained from a species of palm. They take the leaf, 
 which is from two to three feet long, and strip off from it 
 the thin cuticle, which is then dried, and becomes a tolerably 
 firm yarn. They told me that this tree is very short-lived, 
 dying after having borne fruit once. The loom is a compli- 
 cated structure, which is suspended between two trees, or 
 poles, at the front of the house. It is worked on the same 
 principle on which seamen make their mats on board ship, 
 havino- two sets of " dividers," to separate the web and admit 
 the shuttle with the warp. 
 22 
 
L18 
 
 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XXV. 
 
 They sew very neatly with a wooden needle and thread, 
 a skein of which is here represented. 
 
 By a singular fashion, which I never saw elsewhere, girls 
 and young women, till they are married, are not allowed to 
 wear any clothing except the narrow grass-cloth girdle about 
 the middle. They wander about as freely as a total absence 
 of the sentiment of modesty can let them. Their scant toilet 
 was simply a fashion of such long standing that it was taken 
 as a matter of course. 
 
 The men, who are not nearly so finely-built as the women, 
 though they too are superior to the men of the surrounding 
 tiribes, wear on their heads caps of grass-thread knit in a most 
 
 ASHIEA IRON WEAPONS. 
 
 beautiful manner, something in the style of the crochet-work 
 which is the amusement of our ladies. The cap is called 
 ashiia. From their shoulders hangs a bag, not unlike the 
 fashion of our game-bags, with a mass of pendent strings 
 surrounding the bag. It is a very pretty thing, and is used 
 to carry whatever they may have, which we would put in 
 our pockets. 
 
 Both men and women are very fond of copper ornaments, 
 such as bracelets and anklets, which they manufacture from 
 the copper brought hither by the Bakalai from the sea-shore. 
 
 Some of their grass-cloth retains its natural colour, which 
 is a dark buff. Other articles are dyed black in a very 
 
Chap. XXV. 
 
 DYEING NATIVE CLOTS. 
 
 319 
 
 ingenious manner. A beautiful bush, wbicb grows in abund- 
 ance here, bears a profusion of small berries in wMcli 
 the dye is secreted. To obtain it, however, it is necessary 
 first to rub the cloth thoroughly with clay until it is quite 
 covered, and then put it to soak for a day in running water. 
 After soaking twenty-four hours it is put in a kettle with 
 
 AbHIRA BELLES. 
 
 ■water and the beriies and bark, and some leaves of the same 
 tree. The whole is boiled for three or four hours. When 
 tlie cloth is taken out it is of a light black or brown colour. 
 It does not turn of the peculiar deep shining black till it is 
 once more rubbed in clay and soaked in running water. 
 The Ashira women dress their hair in a very curious way, 
 
320 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 and quite differently from any negroes I have seen. The 
 pictures here given make an explanation unnecessary, except 
 to say that the protuberance on the top of the head and the 
 projecting horns are their own vv^ool, made stiff by being 
 strung over such substances as plantain-leaves or sticks. 
 The toilet of an Ashira lady's head is rather a complicated 
 aff;dr ; but then a head " lasts " a good vk^hile. The hair is 
 covered with palm-oil. 
 
 The women paint their bodies red with the dye obtained 
 from the barwood-tree. They are particularly fond of wearing 
 copper rods about their necks, which makes them look as 
 though ready collared for the slave-market. Both men and 
 women file their teeth slightly in the middle, and it does not 
 produce an unpleasant effect on the stranger. Occasionally 
 I saw an old man with teeth filed to a point, as is the savage 
 custom in many of the African tribes. It gives the coun- 
 tenance a peculiar look of ferocity which is not soon for- 
 gotten. 
 
 Seeing no slaves, although I had been some days at Olenda's 
 town, I began to think they had none. But I soon discovered 
 that the poor slaves, on hearing of my arrival, had been 
 panic-struck. They thought, poor fellows ! that I had come 
 to carry them off to the sea-shore to be fattened, and then 
 carried off to the white man's country to be eaten, and that I 
 myself intended to eat a few, which is the iise they fancy we 
 make of slaves. Accordingly 'they retreated to the planta- 
 tions, where they hid themselves, and resolutely refused to 
 make their appearance ; nor would any assurances or en- 
 treaties of mine induce them to come forth. Their masters 
 only' laughed. 
 
 The women are very industrious, and seemed to me milder 
 mannered, as they certainly were healthier, than elsewhere in 
 Africa. They do not become wives till they have arrived 
 fully at the age of puberty, which is one sufficient reason for 
 the greater beauty of the little nation, and for its intellectual 
 ■ superiority, as denoted by the cloth manufactures, and the 
 settled and provident mode of life. Polygamy, of course, 
 prevails ; and parents sometimes sell their children, which is 
 not thought a crime. - 
 
Chap. XXV.. SMOKING LI AMB A LEAVES. 321 
 
 This whole country is well watered. Along every distant 
 mountain-side rivulets are dancing downward, and are lost in 
 the jjlain, or eventually fall into the Ovenga or Ovigui, which 
 flow past, the last emptying into the Eembo Apingi. 
 
 While I was resting in one of the villages, a poor crazy 
 fellow came capering and singing along the street. I was so 
 much amused at his antics, and at the forbearance of the 
 people witli him, that I gave him an old torn coat I had with 
 me. At this he was vastly delighted, and redoubled his 
 jumps and songs, while the villagers wore also much pleased. 
 The poor fellow followed me for several days, and tried to 
 show his gratitude by dancing and singing for my diversion. 
 In this part of Africa idiots — those who are dull, stupid, 
 senseless, and gloomy — are much disliked and soon got rid of. 
 Generally they are sold to another tribe as slaves. But such 
 poor light follows as this was are kindly treated, and I think 
 regarded with a certain superstitious reverence. I have seen 
 but three such in all my journey's, but have seen many 
 brutish idiots. I may as well add here that cases of deafness 
 are very rare. I do not remember to have met any, except 
 very aged people. Among the Bakalai I found one mute, and 
 I have seen in anolher tribe two humpbacks — both, by the 
 way, remarkably cunning fellows. I do not remember a 
 single case (jf blindness in all my journeys, not even among 
 the very aged. 
 
 I found in these hill villages a plant they call the liamha, 
 and which the men cultivate with great care. The leaf is 
 used to smol^e in their clay pipes, and has powerful exhilarant 
 and narcotic effects. From some leaves which I brought 
 home I have discovered ihat this liamba is nothing else than 
 the well-known Cannabis Indica, or Indian hemp, from which 
 the far-famed Eastern drug hasheesh is made. 
 
 One day I found a village in great excitement. One of the 
 men had loeen smoking liamba leaves, and had run out to the 
 forest in an insane state, and it was feared he would be eaten 
 by wild beasts. Such cases are not uncommon in the Ashira 
 country. Under my own observation afterwards, one lianiba- 
 siuoker became furiously and permanently insane, and I saw 
 many who were miserably debilitated by the habit. 
 
322 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XXV. 
 
 'J'here aro among the Ashira many confirmed liamba- 
 smokers, and the habit seems very quickly to fix itself with 
 a fatal tenacity. Beginners I have seen fall down in con- 
 vulsions from the first few puffs. Practised smokers are seen 
 laughing, talking, quarrelling, and acting in all respects like 
 drunken persons. Insanity is often its ultimate result on 
 those who persi.st in its use. I have several times seen men 
 run into the forest under the influence of a few whiffs of 
 liamba, perfectly unconscious and raving. 
 
 LIAMBA LEAF, OR WILD HEMP. 
 
 The negroes acknowledge its pernicious effects, but yet its 
 votaries increase; and though the plant is yet unknown to 
 the sea-shore tribes, they will soon fall under its subjugation, 
 for it is making gradual but sure advances. I never saw the 
 leaf on the sea-shore, but once saw a few of the seeds in the 
 possession of a slave in a slave-factory. He was carefully 
 preserving them, intending to plant them in the country to 
 which he should be sold. 
 
 The negroes choose for the liamba a soil humid, rich, and 
 
Chap. XXV. A GORILLA AND LEOPARD STORY. 323 
 
 near the summit of a bill, in a sunny exposure, where it may 
 secure the greatest amount of heat. 
 
 Hasheesh and the Gannahis Indica are so well known that 
 it is not necessary to say anything about them here. The 
 plant is a native of Abyssinia, Persia, and Hindostan, and is 
 not, in my opinion, indigenous to this part of Africa. This 
 I think, because I nowhere heard of its growing wild, and 
 because the Ashira and Apingi, the only people I met with 
 who use it, cultivate it with considerable care. How it came 
 thither, or how they first came by a knowledge of its qualities, 
 I could not learn. 
 
 On the 1 2th I took with me to hunt a number of Ashira, who 
 covered themselves with fetiches, as usual, and gashed their 
 hands for good luck. They were in high spirits because a 
 fetich had given indications that we should get much game. 
 When we had camped that evening, and after a rain-tornado 
 had passed and left us in quiet in our leafy shelters, the men 
 began to tell stories of the gorilla. Some of these were such 
 as the reader has already met with in this volume ; but two 
 were told of quite a diiferent kind. One of these related how 
 a gorilla was walking in tte forest, when suddenly he met a 
 ngego or leopard. The gorilla stopped, and so did the 
 leopard. The latter, being hungry, crouched for a spring at 
 his foe, whereat the gorilla set up a hideous roar. Undis- 
 maj^ed by this, the leopard made his leap, but was caught in 
 mid-air by the gorilla, who seized his foe by the tail, and 
 whirled him round his head till the tail broke off, and the 
 animal escaped, leaving his brush in the hands of the 
 gorilla ! 
 
 The leopard ran away to his companions, who, when they 
 saw him, asked, "What is the matter?" whereupon the 
 unfortunate beast recounted his defeat. At this the chief 
 Qgego howled and howled till all the leopards of the forest 
 oame, who, when they saw their brother's injury, vowed 
 vengeance, and set out to find the gorilla. 
 
 They had not long to hunt. When the gorilla saw them 
 coming he broke down a tree, of which he made a club, 
 which he swung round and round his head, and kept the 
 troop of leopards at bay. At last, however, he grew tired, 
 
32t EQUATOIilAL AFRICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 and then the leopards rushed on him with one accord and 
 soon killed him. 
 
 Next came a storj^ of a gorilla and an elephant, told with 
 a good deal of dramatic force. As the gorilla was walking in 
 the forest with his wife and baby, they came suddenly upon 
 a huge elephant, who said, "Let me pass, gorilla, for these 
 woods belong to me." 
 
 " Oh, oh ! " said the gorilla. " How do the woods belong 
 to thee ? Am I not master here ? Am I not the man of the 
 woods ? Do I not roam where I please ? " 
 
 And, ordering his wife and baby to go aside, he broke down 
 a large tree, and brandishing it like a club, made at the 
 elephant, whom he soon killed. The body of the elephant 
 was found by a man a few days afterwards, with the club of 
 the gorilla lying by its side. 
 
 This story, the narrator assured me, was a fact ; and I 
 think he firmly believed it. 
 
 The next morning I succeeded in bagging several wild 
 boar. These animals are not only verj' savage, but singu- 
 larly active. When I brought down the boar, three others 
 which were with him were much startled, and, in their fright, 
 made a leap which must have measured over ten yards. I 
 have seen them repeatedly leaping across the Ovenga, where, 
 by my own measurement, it was more than eight yards 
 across. Once 1 saw one miss the opposite bank, and I shot 
 it in the water. 
 
 This wild boar is peculiar to this part of Africa, and is a 
 new species. I have called it Potamochoeriis alhifrons. The 
 animal looks somewhat like the Potamoclioerus penicillatus. 
 It is a very remarkable-looking animal, attaining a great 
 size, and conspicuous for a curious white face, adorned with 
 several large warty protuberances on each side, half-way 
 between the nose and eyes. These, and the singular long 
 bristles which surround the eyes and the long ears, ending 
 in a tuft of coarse hair, give the animal a very remarkable 
 expression. The colour of the body is red. 
 
 We got no gorillas on this hunt, but I killed a very 
 remarkable animal, the Oi/nogale velox, resembling a small 
 otter, and the only animal of this genus known, as yet, I 
 
Chap. XXV. 
 
 NEST OF N-8EIMG0-UB0VVE. 
 
 325 
 
 believe, in Africa. I have called it velox because of the 
 extreme rapidity with which it darts through the water after 
 its prey. 
 
 At sunset of the third day we heard the call of a nshiego- 
 mbouve {Troglodytes calvus). I immediately caused my men 
 to lie down, and was just getting into a hiding-place myself, 
 when I saw, in the branches of a tree at a little distance, the 
 curious nest or bower of this ape ; hard by, on another tree, 
 was another shelter. We crept up within shot of this nest, 
 and then waited, for I was determined to see once more the 
 precise manner in which this animal goes to rest. We lay 
 flat on the ground, and covered ourselves with leaves and 
 brush, scaice daring to breathe, lest the approaching animal 
 should hear us. 
 
 CTNOQALE TELOX. 
 
 From time to time I heard the calls. There were evidently 
 two, probably a male and female. Just as the sun was setting 
 I saw an animal approach the tree. It ascended by a hand- 
 over-hand movement, and with great rapidity ; crept care- 
 fully under the shelter, seated itself in the crotch made by a 
 projecting bough, its feet and haunches resting on this bough ; 
 then put one arm about the trunk of the tree for security. 
 Thus, I suppose, they rest all night; and this posture 
 accounts for some singular abrasions of hair on the side of the 
 nshiego-mbouve. At a little distance off I saw another 
 shelter made for the mate. • ,,.,'■ .,; ,i . '; 
 
32C EQUATORIAL AFIilCA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 No sooner was it seated than it began again to utter its 
 call. It was answered, and I began to have the hope that I 
 should shoot both animals, when an unlucky motion of one ot 
 my men roused the suspicions of the ape in the tree. It 
 began to prepare for descent, and unwilling to risk the loss 
 of this one, I fired. It fell to the ground dead. It proved to 
 be a male, with the face and hands entirely black. 
 
 As we were not in haste, I made my men cut down the 
 trees which contained the nests of these apes. These are 
 made by the animal to protect it from the nightly rains. 
 When the leaves begin to dry to that degree that the struc- 
 ture no longer sheds water, the owner builds a new shelter, 
 and this happens generallj' once in ten or fifteen days. At 
 this rate the nshiego-mbouve is an animal of no little industry. 
 
 On the 18th I told Olanda that I wished for men to help 
 me ascend the high peak of Nkoomoonabouali, which was 
 vbout forty miles oif. He laughed, and said I could not do 
 it ; I should starve, in the attempt ; besides, there was a 
 mighty spirit living there which would prevent us from 
 passing. However, I had set my heart on ascending this 
 peak ; and though it proved impossible to draw the slaves 
 from their concealment, I managed to bribe a sufficient 
 number of freemen to be my guides through the impene- 
 trable forest which lay between the prairie and the mountain- 
 top, and to help me in the ascent. The negroes are excellent 
 woodmen, and are very rarely lost, even in a forest where 
 they are strangers. 
 
 On the night of the 22nd a tremendous rain-storm put out 
 our fires and left us most uncomfortable. Next morning we 
 heard the roar of a gorilla, and killed it. 
 
 By the evening of the 24th we had ascended I could not 
 tell how far up the mountain-side. The woods were still 
 dense; every step was attended with difficulties. The 
 negroes were suffeiing from hunger, and we had but one 
 day's provisions left. Mj' poor i ag.s could no longer be kept 
 together, and at every advance my bleeding body bore witness 
 to the difficulties of a farther ascent. ; so I determined not to 
 risk certain death by starvation, but rather to return. 
 
 So, on the 26th, we set out on our way back, praying only 
 
NSHlEGO-MBOUVli IN Ills SHELTElt. 
 
328 EQUATORIAL AFUICA. Chap. XXV. 
 
 that we migM not starve by the way. Fortunately, one of 
 the men discovered a bees' nest in a tree, and we ate up their 
 wormy store of honey ; and in the afternoon we shot a 
 leopard, which lay in a tree just ahead of us as we were 
 passing along, and I dare say hoped to make his dinner off 
 one of our party. It was a splendid beast, and very large. 
 We lost no time in cutting it to pieces, and had a satisfactory 
 supper from leopaid-steak. 
 
 But there was only a bite a-piece for the party, and we 
 were balf-famished. The next morning we rose weak and 
 depressed. I could scarce stand. We picked a few berries 
 for breakfast, and again made for the plain. I took a last 
 mouthful of brandy, and, to encourage the men, walked in 
 advance, and assumed a degree of high spirits which I did 
 not in reality possess. 
 
 21th. — This morning I could only v\ith great difBculty rise 
 from my pour bed of leaves. We set forward without break- 
 fast. I dared not send the men into the forest for berries, 
 for every hour was precious, and they might not find any 
 after all. So we walked on with empty stomachs, praying 
 for a sight of the plain. 
 
 On, and on, and on, through the gloomy jungle, no man 
 saying a word to the other, and every one looking anxiously 
 for the first sign of the prairie-land, which now seemed a 
 very fairy-] and to me. 
 
 At last, in the afternoon, about three o'clock, a sudden 
 lighting up of the forest's gloom gave us hojDe, and after 
 another hour's anxi(jus marching the wide plain lay before 
 us. With a simultaneous renewal of strength and hope, we 
 set off on a run, nor stopped till we had reached a village at 
 the very bounds of the bush. Here the people were at first 
 very much alarmed at our appearance and our frantic actions. 
 " Food, food, food ! " was all that any of us could cry out. 
 When they discovered that we did not mean mischief, they 
 approached, and, learning our necessities, made baste to 
 supply us with all manner of food in their possession. One 
 came with yams, another with plantains, others with little 
 baskets of cassava ; find all expressed sorrow tiiat they had 
 nothing better to ofl'cr. The chief killed a goat for me, 
 
Chap. XXV. HAIR CUTTINQ. 329 
 
 which we ate up as fast as it could be cooked. I feared I 
 should be sick from putting too large a share on my so long 
 empty stomach ; but, happily, the goat did not disagree with 
 any of us. Probably there was not enough of it. 
 
 The weather has been very hot lately ; and, as my hair 
 was too long for comfort, I told Makondai one day to cut it 
 for me, giving him a pair of scissors I had in my kit. He 
 
 OGANA : AN ASHIKA HOUSEKEEPEB. 
 
 did not do it veiy artistically, but in the interior of Africa 
 one comes to care little for looks or fashions. When he had 
 done he gathered up the cut hair and threw it out into the 
 street. I was not attending to what was going on, and was 
 surprised presently at a noise of scuflaing and fighting in 
 front of my house. 
 
 I looked out and beheld a most laughable scene. The men 
 
330 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVI. 
 
 were buaily picking up the scattered hairs, and those who 
 couhl. not get at them were disputing possession with their 
 luckier neighbours. Even the old king, Olenda, was in the 
 midst, eager for a shaie. As each got what he could, he 
 would tie them up carefully in the corner of his ndengui, and 
 walk off very contentedly. 
 
 I called Olenda and asked what was the use of this hair. 
 He replied, " Oh, spirit ! these hairs are very precious ; we 
 shall make mondas (fetiches) of them, and . they will bring 
 other white men to us, and bring us great good luck and 
 riches. Since you have come to us, oh spirit ! we have 
 wished to have some of your liair, but did not dare to ask for 
 it, not knowing that it could be cut." I was happy that it 
 had not occurred to them to appropriate violently my whole 
 head, hair and all, and was glad enough to let the old king 
 walk off with his precious lock of a white man's hair. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Preparations to go to the Apingi countiy — The Ovigui river — A dan- 
 gerous bridge — The primeval forest — Beautiful brooks and rills 
 
 Travellers' shelters — Leopard attacking a buffalo — Eemandji, kinf of 
 the Apingi — A big river — Crossing the Eembo Apingi — Offer of a 
 negro for supper — Stories about aeloven-footed race — lam made king 
 
 — Am invested with the kendo— The kendo, the emblem of royalty 
 
 Tattooing— Supposed to be married to' an Apingi woman— Industrious 
 habits of the Apingi — Ownirsliip in trees — Their knowledge of 
 weaving — Powerful fetich to kill leopard. 
 
 My determination to go farther into the interior has aroused 
 the jealousy of the Ashiras. All the chiefs came in to Olenda 
 and expressed their disapproval of my project. They do not 
 wish their trade interfered with, and are fearful, if a white 
 man once reaches the far East beyond them, those people will 
 not be content to trade with the Ashira longer. I stated my 
 objects, and that I did not go as trader, but as traveller, and 
 to collect new animals. At last Olenda said, " This white 
 man must go where he wishes. He has been sent to me by 
 my friend Quengueza. He must do what he pleases." 
 
Chap XXVI. I TAKE LEAVE OF OLENDA. 331 
 
 Then the wily chiefs asked me what I would give them 
 as presents if I was permitted to go. To this I put on a 
 show of anger, and asked if I was not their guest, their 
 stranger, and whj- they were so mean as to beg me for my 
 goods? They seemed much ashamed. Of course I gave 
 them some trifles afterwards for good will. 
 
 It is curious to see how greatly slaves are trusted in this 
 country. The owners of these fellows had no security for 
 their return, nor for the goods they intrusted to them ; for I, 
 of course, would not become responsible for them. But they 
 were sure to return. They, who were originally themselves 
 from an interior tribe, have come to feel greatly attached (o 
 Goumbi, and look down with contempt on the Ashira, whom 
 they call " men of the woods." 
 
 Dec. 4lh. — Food has been collected and cooked for my trip. 
 I am to gi\ e the Ashira men six fathoms of cloth each to go 
 with me to the Apingi country and wait for me there. Olenda 
 gave me a numerous band, including three of his sons to 
 accompany me, Minsho, Iguy, and Aiaguy, the latter a very 
 common name here. 
 
 It rains nearly every day, and every few days we have 
 tremendous storms of wind and rain. All the rivers are 
 swollen, and the prairie looks very green and beautiful. 
 
 We set out on Dec. 6th. Early in the morning Olenda 
 called us around him, and after telling his sons to take good 
 care of me, the venerable old man proceeded formally to bless 
 us, wishing us good success. It was a touching scene. At 
 the close he took a sugar-cane, bit a piece of the pith, and 
 spat a little of the juice in the hand of each one of the party, 
 at the same time blowing on the hand. Then he said solemnly, 
 " Let all have good speed with you, and let it be as smooth 
 (pleasant) as the breath I blow on your hand." Then Minsho 
 received the cane, which he is to bring back. 
 
 I found that the prairie was much more swampy to the 
 eastward, towards the foot of the hills, than I had supposed. 
 We had to walk through much mud, and often to wade 
 through considerable pools and swamps of standing water, 
 produced by the constant heavy rains. In one of these 
 Bwampj we had to wade up to our middles in muddy water, 
 
332 Equatorial afriga. chap. xxvi, 
 
 and some of the party slipped down on the roots with which 
 the bottom is covered. 
 
 The forest beyond the line of the prairie is also inhabited. 
 We passed over a dozen villages, the people of which flocked 
 out to see the " white spirit." They were all Ashira. 
 
 Towards noon we approached the Ovigui Eiver, a moun- 
 tain-torrent, which was to be crossed by a rude and very 
 dangerous bridge. This bridge I had dreaded all day, and 
 when at last I saw it I was by no means reassured. The 
 stream was about thirty yards wide, and rushed through the 
 forest, overflowing its banks. The waters were very swift, 
 and I saw that even a good swimmer would be helpless here, 
 and would soon be dashed to pieces against the fallen trees 
 which jutted out in every direction. Now I swim but very 
 little. 
 
 The bridge was a complicated, shaky structure, of which 
 the engraving will give the reader some idea. 
 
 It appears that the Ovigui had its bed, till some years ago, 
 not here, but some hundreds of yards on the other side. This 
 is a trick that some of the mountain-streams of Africa have 
 Now in the new bed stood certain trees vsrhich native ingenuity 
 saw could be used as the piers for a bridge. In this place 
 two trees, standing each about seven or eight yards from one 
 side, were chosen. Other trees opposite on the banks vi^ere 
 so cut as to fall into these. Thus were formed two portions 
 of the bridge, and these, though sufficiently rude, were not 
 seriously bad fur a traveller. It now remained to unite the 
 still open space in the centre, between the two " piers," and 
 here came the tug. Unable to transport heavy pieces of 
 timber, they had thrown across this chasm a long, slender, 
 bending limb, which sagged down in the middle until, when 
 it bore a man's weight, its centre was three feet below the 
 surface of the rushing tide. Of course no one could walk on 
 this without assistance, so a couple of strong vines had been 
 strung across for balustrades; but as these vines were of 
 necessity so slack as to be parallel with the bamboo, they 
 were of the very slightest assistance. 
 
 My heart failed me as I stood looking at this rioketr 
 concern. To add to the pleasurable excitement of the scene. 
 
Chap. XXVI. 
 
 A RUDE BRIDGE. 
 
 333 
 
 Minslio told me that this was a much better crossing than 
 some others they had lower down, hut admitted that even 
 here some half-dozen of their people had been drowned within 
 a year. 
 
 EUDE BRIDGE OVEI! THE OVIC.UI. 
 
 I watched the party crossing with great interest. One 
 man slip[icd when midway, but luckily recovered himself. 
 He dropped only a box of mine containing two pairs of shoes. 
 Another, who was carrying a gun, so narrowly escaped falling 
 as to drop that, which was also swept off and lost. Mean- 
 23 
 
■S'H EQUATORIAL AFBI 'A. Chap. XXVI, 
 
 time I wondered if I should follow in the wake of my shoes 
 and gun. 
 
 At last all were across but Minsho. I had stripped to my 
 shirt and trousers, and set out on my trial, followed by 
 Minsho, who had a vague idea that if I slipped he might catch 
 me. It was an unpleasant suspense in every way ; and as I 
 crossed the centre part, and felt the current beating against 
 my legs and almost seeming to have a hold on me, with 
 purpose to drag me away, I vowed I would never try such 
 an enterprise again. However, I managed to hold on to the 
 vine and drag myself up, very weak and pale with excite- 
 ment, but outwardly necessarily calm, as it would not do to 
 let these natives see me make a difficulty of anything they 
 could do. 
 
 Again we plunged into the primeval forests of ebony, bur- 
 wood, india-rubber vines, and other strange trees and shrubs. 
 After about two miles of travel we came to a curious little 
 strq) of prairie, which was five or six miles long, but only a 
 few hundred yards wide. This they called Odjiolo. It was 
 not inhabited. 
 
 A few miles farther on the path led over a curious steep 
 mount called Mount Ocoucou. We had to climb the almost 
 perpendicular sides, and I had to grasp branches or vines as 
 I ascended the face of this high hill. Having surmounted 
 that and three others, with inteivening plains and valleys, 
 all covered with dense forests, we at last found ourselves on 
 the banks of another little purling mountain-brook which 
 skirted the base of our last hill, the Aloumy. Here we lit 
 fires, built shelters, and camped for the night. This day we 
 made but twenty miles, fifteen of which were due east. 
 
 Dec. 1th. — As we advance the country becomes more rugged 
 and mountainous. On every side brooks and rills and small 
 streams are wending their way down to the Ovigui, or 
 towards the Apingi river, and very frequently we have to 
 march along the bed of a purling brook, the only way which 
 the broken and rocky country affords us. This day was 
 exceedingly trying for our feet. We picked our way through 
 a dense and gloomy forest, every step obstructed by rocks 
 and broken ground. This is evidently the favourite haunt 
 
Chap. XXVI. TIUVELLESS' SBELTBR8. 335 
 
 of gorilla. Several times during the day we heard his roar 
 in the distance. We heard also the cry of a nshiego-mbouve. 
 
 As we advanced, the scenery became even more grand and 
 picturesque. We were already on a high plain or table-land, 
 but our route led us continxially to higher levels by regular 
 gradations of ascent. Some of the hills we had to surmount 
 were from two to three thousand feet high. The higher we 
 got, the vaster became the piles and boulders of quartz and 
 granite, which seem to have been scattered over the face of 
 all this country by some vast convulsion of nature ages ago. 
 
 This country is very abundantly watered, and we passed 
 some considerable streams. One of these we traced upwards 
 for several miles, as it ran along the foot of some huge hills 
 which we had to ascend one after another. The highest 
 peaks of this range were called the Kayambi and the Boundou, 
 and another called the Okoukoue. We crossed the Louvendji, 
 which is one hundred and twenty feet wide. 
 
 Passing this, we came at sunset to a bando — a, travellers' 
 house — a rude shelter left by former caravans at the foot of 
 a high hill called Koungou. 
 
 The bando was occupied by a party of Apingi, who, when 
 they saw me, instantly ran off, very much soared. It was 
 only after many persuasions that they could be brought back. 
 Presently a tremendous tornado came up, followed by rain, 
 which made us glad we had reached shelter. Such storms 
 frequently do great damage to the woods, and are very 
 dangerous to travellers, as trees are uprooted, and branches 
 fall on every side. 
 
 The bando here was roofed with peculiar and very large 
 leaves from two trees, \vhich are called here the shayshayray 
 and the quayrjayray. 
 
 To-day we travelled about twenty-five miles in a general 
 direction of east. 
 
 Bee. 8th. — This day the country was less wild, and the hills 
 very few. We saw in the distance about mid-da}' some 
 Bakalai villages, situated on a little prairie, but my people 
 were afraid to approach them. No persuasions of mine would 
 induce them to go near. They were afraid, Minsho said, of 
 trouble with the Bakalai. 
 
Chap. XXVI. KING RE3IANDJI. 337 
 
 Dec. 9tli. — Last night, fortunately for me, it was clear and 
 brigM starliglit. About midnight our camp was awakened 
 by a tremendous roaring, and, jumping up, I saw in the plain 
 before me a grand and exciting scene. A wild buffalo had 
 been wandering in the woods, and a leopard had leaped upon 
 him. The poor animal rushed, with roar after roar of agony 
 and fright, into and across the plain, vainly plunging and 
 striving to loose the claws of his enemy, who sat upon his 
 hump, and was, as we could see, sucking the blood from his 
 neck. The poor beast doubtless fell a victim to the leopard, 
 whose attack is generally fatal. It was a splendid sight, 
 though it lasted but for a few minutes. 
 
 This day, and also the nest (lOtli), we journeyed along to 
 the eastward, hurried onward by a lack of food. As usual in 
 Africa, all the provisions we could carry could not be made 
 to last above three days. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 10th, as we were passing through 
 a dense wood, we heard people talking not far from us, and 
 presently we stood before Eemandji, a king of the Apingi 
 tribe. He was a fine-looking old negro. At sight of me he 
 and his company stood silent and amazed for a few minutes, 
 looking at us. Then the king began on a sudden to dance 
 about in a most unroyal and crazy manner, shouting again 
 and again, " The spirit has come to see me ! the spirit has 
 come to see my country ! " 
 
 When he was a little pacified he told us he came to fish, 
 and must now go for his wives, whom he had sent on before, 
 and who had food. We were directed to go on to a bando 
 not far off, whither he would return for the night, as his 
 town was too distant. 
 
 We went on, hoping that the women would have food for 
 us. Meantime night came on ; it grew darker and darker ; 
 and as we did not reach our rendezvous, and I was half- 
 famished, I pushed ahead, to try if I could not kill a str.ay 
 gazelle for .supper. 
 
 Presently I thought I perceived an animal a little off the 
 path, and, stepping towards it, suddenly pitched head fore- 
 most into an elephant-trap, a hole about eight feet long by 
 six feet wide and ten deep ; a wretched place, where I lay 
 
338 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVI 
 
 helpless, momentarily expecting to see some huge serpent 
 fall on the top of ine. I cried out lustily, and fortunately 
 was heard by my people and dragged out with a creeper, 
 which they cut and let down to me. 
 
 In these holes the Apingi catch their elephants. I saw 
 many of them afterwards. They are ingeniously covered 
 with brush and leaves, but are evident enough to a man who 
 has once seen or fallen into one. 
 
 Finally we reached the camp, and when Eemandji came he 
 had but a few fish to eat, therefore we poor half-famished 
 fellows had to go to sleep supperless. All night we endured 
 torments indescribable from mosquitoes, which must be of a 
 new kind, for their sting was like that of a bee. In the 
 morning our bodies were swollen as though we had been 
 beaten all over. Smoke and fire seemed to have no effect 
 upon them. I never suffered such torture in my life. 
 
 The next morning we started off again, and, after a three 
 hours' march, came at last, by a sudden opening of the forest, 
 upon a magnificent stream, the Eembo Apingi. It was much 
 larger than I had been led to expect — about three hundred 
 and fifty j'ards wide, as far as I could guess, and evidently a 
 considerable body of water. As I stood in delight, looking 
 down upon the beautiful river, whose waters were gliding 
 down towards the great sea, a tremendous cheer from a crowd 
 which had quickly collected about me announced to the 
 people on the other side, where the villages were, that " the 
 white man ' had come. The cheer was responded to by 
 gathering crowds on the opposite bank, and presently some 
 exceedingly frail, narrow canoes and several rafts were pushed 
 across to ferry us over. The Apingi have villages only on 
 the farther bank of the river. 
 
 I got into a canoe, which was managed by the Apingi 
 boatmen with much skill. The Ashira know nothing of 
 boating. The rafts were composed of several logs tied 
 together. Their motion was very slow. 
 
 The shouting continued until I was safely housed in the 
 largest house in Eemandji's village. This was a little hut, 
 with, fortunately, a piazza in front; for, when I had secured 
 iiiy goods inside, there was scarce room for me to turn. 
 
Ohap. XXVI. A STUANGE WELCOME. 339 
 
 Presently Eemandji came to me, followed by all the old 
 men of his village and the chiefs from neighbouring villages. 
 He brought me two dozen fowls, and some bunches of plan- 
 tains, and baskets of cassava, which being laid at my feet, he 
 addressed me, saying, " I have beheld what our forefathers 
 never saw, what I never saw before. I bid welcome to thee, 
 oh white man ! oh spirit ! I thank your father," turning to 
 lyiinsho, " for sending this spirit to me, for nothing greater 
 could happen to us." 
 
 Then he said, " Be glad, oh spirit ! and eat of the things we 
 give thee." 
 
 Whereupon, to my astonishment, a slave was handed over 
 to me bound, and Eemandji said, " Kill him for your evening 
 meal ; he is tender and fat, and you must be hungry." It 
 took me a moment to recover from my astonishment. Then 
 I shoot my head, spat violently on the ground, and made 
 Minsho tell them that I abhorred the people who ate human 
 flesh, and that I and my people never did so. 
 
 To which Eemandji replied, " We always heard that you 
 white men eat men. Why do you buy our people? Why 
 do you come from nobody knows where, and carry off our 
 men, and women, and children ? Do you not fatten them in 
 your far country and eat them ? Therefore I gave you this 
 slave, that you might kill him, and make glad your heart." 
 
 It was a difficult matter to explain to the king that he was 
 much mistaken, and that we do not eat our slaves. 
 
 When at last my meal was cooked and served for me, 
 Eemandji came in to taste of what was provided, and to 
 drink of the water that was set for me. This is a custom 
 obseived in every tribe I have visited, and is to show the 
 gnest that he runs no risk of being poisoned. Even the 
 wives taste of the food they set before their husbands, they 
 not being permitted to eat with the men. 
 
 I may add here that the negroes have no prejudices on the 
 subject of meat which has died a natural death. Even if it 
 is very high they relish it, and if the beast has died of disease, 
 that makes no odds to their tolerant stomachs. 
 
 As u.su;d, ttie people are full of wonder at my appearance. 
 They a\oid my glance, they admire my wonderful straight 
 
340 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVI. 
 
 hair, my white stin (which is pretty black by this time), and 
 my clothing; and at last several urgently requested me to 
 take oft' my " foot coverings," that they might see if I had 
 toes like them. 
 
 I asked with surprise why they had a doubt upon the 
 subject, and was then informed that they had thought 
 perhaps I was like a people far away in the interior, whom 
 they call the Sapadi, and who have cloven feet, like ante- 
 lopes. 
 
 Now, wherever I have been in Africa, I have heard this 
 legend ; and the nation called Sapadi are always situated in 
 much the same place — in Central Equatorial Africa. At Cape 
 Lopez slaves from the interior had told me of such a people 
 among the Commi the curious legend is devoutly believed 
 Quengneza's peojile mentioned them ; and now these Apingi 
 proved believers. 
 
 Eemandji immediately called one of his slaves and a man 
 of the Shimba tribe, both of whom declared positively, and 
 with a look of great truthfulness, that they had seen the 
 Sapadi ; that they were people, black, and in all things like 
 themselves, only thoy had feet split like an antelope. 
 
 I asked why they did not capture these people and send 
 them to the coast as slaves ; to which was answered that they 
 were so far off that they did not reach them. 
 
 That there was a nation cloven-footed they Avere firmly 
 persuaded, and no reasoning could shake their belief. Indeed, 
 I suppose my white skin and straight hair were quite as 
 wonderful to them as a Sapadi's cloven foot. 
 
 It is curious that wherever I have heard of this people 
 they have had the same name, Sapadi. But the negro has 
 so vivid an imagination that all conjectures as to the origin 
 of the superstition are vain. Some fellow may have dreamed 
 it, and afterwards infected the country with his dream. 
 Among the Commi many people believe that the whites who 
 make the cloth which traders bring them are not like us, 
 but a race with but one eye, and that in the middle of the 
 forehead. 
 
 Dec. IGtJi. — Yesterday I wound my musical-box and set it 
 on an Apingi stijol in the street, in the midst of a great 
 
Chap. XXVI. MY REPUTATION. 341 
 
 crowd who had come in to see " the spirit." They were 
 infinitely surprised and afraid at the sweet sounds, and 
 particularly when I went away from it and left it to play 
 alone. They looked from me to the box, and back, and 
 finally exclaimed, " Lo ! the devil speaks to him ! " My 
 clock is kept on the piazza, and its constant tic-tac, particu- 
 larly in the still night, when it can be heard over the village, 
 seems to strike them with awe. They say the spirit watches 
 over me, especially when I sleep, and would kill any one who 
 should try to injure me or my property. 
 
 When they saw me write they at once exclaimed that I 
 was about to make cloth, and this was the pattern. Where- 
 upon ensued a council of about thirty Apingi chiefs, who, 
 after due deliberation, came, Eemandji at their head, and 
 addressed me, saying, " Spirit, you are our king. You have 
 come to our country to do us good. You can do everything." 
 And then requested that I would now proceed to make for 
 them a pile of beads as high as the highest tree in the village 
 (pointing to it), that they and their women and children 
 might go and take as much as they wished. Also cloth, and 
 brass kettles, and copper rods, and guns, and powder. And 
 all the people, who had gathered around, to the number of 
 several thousands, to listen, answered " Yo ! yo ! " as a sign 
 of approval. 
 
 They believed fully that I made by night all the articles 
 which I gave them day after day in return for fruits and 
 food, and that I hid them in the forest during the day, to be 
 produced as occasion required. Nor could I convince them 
 that I had not the power to make these articles by a simple 
 operation of the will. It was a severe disappointment to all 
 who had gathered from many miles around to witness the 
 expected miracle. Most of the Apingi chiefs had come hither 
 bringing whole villages of people with them, who encamped 
 in the forest in such numbers that starvation soon began to 
 appear in the camp. Even an Ashango chief had come from 
 a hundred miles eastward, so quickly does great news travel, 
 bringing some of his people to carry away a share of the 
 gooils which I was to create so miraculously. As they 
 approached, the faces of the great crowd were beaming with 
 
342 
 
 EQUATORIAL AFIilCA. 
 
 Chap. XXVI. 
 
 satisfactioD, and they had so little doubt, that if, indeed, I 
 had done the wonder they asked, these poor heathen would 
 scaice have heen surju-ised. It was a most strange and curious 
 
 Ml 
 
 APINGI BIAN AND WOMAN WITH NDENGTJI OB GREEN CLOTH. 
 
 scene to me. Tliey went away grieved, because, as they 
 thought, I refused to do them a kindness. 
 
 As the peoiilo frojn all tlie neighbouring villages came to 
 look at me, I got a good idea of them without going about 
 
Chap. XXVI. A LEOPABD TBAP. 343 
 
 myself. The women seem to be very fruitful, more so than 
 with any tribe I have before seen in Africa. Almost ever J 
 woman I see has three or four children. But they are 
 hideously ugly, rather small, compared with the men, and 
 tattooed all over in a manner which they think beautiful, but 
 which is to me hideous. Both men and women file their 
 front teeth to a sharp point, which gives their faces a fright- 
 fully savage appearance. 
 
 In colour they are rather a yellowish black. Indeed, I 
 have remarked that, in all parts of the continent, from the 
 boimds of the Sahara to the Apingi, the natives of the moun- 
 tainous regions of the interior are much lighter than the 
 people of the seaboard and the plains or desert. 
 
 On the 17th we went into the forest to construct a trap for 
 leopards,,two goats having disapjjeared the night before from 
 a flock belonging to Eemandji. The trap was a very singular 
 and most ingenious structure. Tiiey cut a great many 
 sticks, which were firmly put into the ground close together, 
 and in two lines or rows, about two feet apart. To make 
 them more firm, they were tied together with grape-vines, 
 and then more sticks were laid across the top, and also 
 strongly lashed down. One end of the row v\as left open ; the 
 other was closed, a live goat having first been fastened there. 
 This, by its bleating, was to lure the leopard, who, crawling 
 into this cul de sac, had not sense enough to get out again, 
 the space being purposely made too narrow to admit of his 
 turning round. This kind of trap is also used to catch the 
 small gazelle (ncheri), and other, small animals of the woods ; 
 and I afterwards saw such traps for the smaller beasts, quite 
 a mile long, with various oi^enings, all turning inward, and 
 admitting, but not emitting the bewildered prey. 
 
 On the 18th I was formally invested with the kendo, which 
 is here, also, the insignia of the head-man or chief ruler. 
 Eemandji put the kendo over my shoulder, which gave me 
 like power with himself. It was done in the presence of an 
 immense crowd, who shouted out their approval, and pro- 
 mised to obey me. Eemandji said, " You are the spirit, 
 whom we have never seen before. We are but poor people 
 when we see .you. You are of those whom we have often 
 
344 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVI. 
 
 heard of, wlio come from nobody knows where, and whom we 
 never hoped to see. You are our king and ruler ; stay with 
 us always. We love you, and will do what you wish." 
 Whereupon ensued shouts and rejoicings; palm-wine was 
 introduced, and a general jollification took place, in the 
 orthodox fashion at coronations. From this day, therefore, 
 I may call myself Du Chaillu the First, King of the Apingi. 
 Few sovereigns have assumed rule with so general approval 
 of their subjects, I imagine. Of course, I would not submit 
 to the ill-usage which the king elect has to undergo here, as 
 among the Gaboon or other tribes, before his investiture ; 
 therefore it was omilted in my case. 
 
 The kendo used here is made by the Shimba, a tribe still 
 farther east, who are reputed the greatest workers in iron in 
 all this region. From them all these interior tribes obtain 
 the few iron articles they possess. 
 
 This country is full of palm-trees, of the kind the fruit ol 
 which yields oil. I had never seen such vast quantities oi 
 palms, all hanging full of ripe nuts. Much oil might easily be 
 made here, and transported on rafts by water to the seaboard, 
 if only the trade could once be opened. The Apingi eat the 
 nuts, and seem to thrive upon them. They make but little 
 oil, and use that chiefly to rub on their heads and bodies. 
 The Ashira are their only customers, and that to the 
 extent of only a few calabashes of oil annually, for which 
 they pay such a trifle that it is not worth their while to 
 make it. 
 
 They are fond of the palm-wine, and go out regularly into 
 the forest to obtain it. In my wanderings and hunts, I 
 often saw the calabash hung to a tube inserted in the tree ; 
 the owner comes for it early in the morning, and generally 
 drinks it in the forest alone, lest, if he took it into the village, 
 some thirsty friend might beg a drop. They do not kill the 
 tree to get the juice, as do many other tribes. The men 
 love to get drunk. I have seen half the men in a town 
 drunk at the same lime. But it must be said' for the women 
 that they are much more temperate, though sometimes they 
 also get drunk. 
 
 The women have a particular form of tattooed lines which 
 
Chap. XXVI. A PREDICAMENT. 345 
 
 is thought most beautiful. A broad stripe is drawn from the 
 back of the neck along the shoulders, across the breasts, 
 meeting in an acute angle in the hollow of the chest. Other 
 stripes are drawn in curves along the back, and from the 
 breast down over the abdomen. The more of these marks, 
 the greater is the beauty. They are permitted to wear only 
 two of the little squares in which the Apingi grass- cloth is 
 made, and consequently go nearly naked, while their hus- 
 bands are often fully covered. I cannot divine the origin of 
 this custom ; but it has robbed the women of any remnant of 
 modesty which exists naturally in other tribes. Eemandji's 
 head-wife or queen, a rather pretty young woman, after the 
 Apingi custom, came with her husband one day to see me. 
 I gave her a piece of bright cotton cloth, which delighted 
 her so much that she immediately began, to my great dismay, 
 to disrobe herself, in order to put on my present. But when 
 she had reduced herself to a state of nature, something else 
 of my goods attracted her attention, and she began to talk 
 and look around her with the most complete unconcern for 
 some time, before she bethought her of the neglected cloth, 
 with which she endued herself very leisurely. 
 
 I had a little adventure with aoother of the women. The 
 king, on my arrival, signified to me, with the usual liberality 
 of African kings, that any of his wives, or any of anybody 
 else's wives that pleased my eyes, I was requested to consider 
 my own. I, of course, replied that in our country we did 
 not marry in this off-hand way ; which he could not at all 
 understand. As, however, the women are the housekeepers, 
 when I was settled a little I chose one of the oldest and 
 ugliest that I saw, and installed her as my housekeeper, cook, 
 and maid-of-all-work. For two or three days all went well. 
 But one morning I was waited upon by a deputation of men 
 and women, who hailed me with much joy as their relative ; 
 thanked me for the honour I had done them in taking their 
 relative to wife ; and gravely asked me for presents to make 
 their hearts glad on such a joyful occasion. 
 
 I confess that for once I lost my temper. I took a stick 
 and drove my new relatives out of the village, packed off my 
 slandering housekeeper after them, and heaped all the abuse 
 
346 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXYI. 
 
 upon them I was master of in Apingi. They fled with the 
 utmost consternation. 
 
 When I told Eemandji of the affair, he laughed and said, 
 " You see — why don't you take my advice ? " 
 
 The Apingi are, for Africans, a very industrious people. 
 Tlie men do some worh here, and this is an extraordinary 
 sight in this part of Africa. They make fine grass-cloth, for 
 which they aie noted among all the tribes. It is called 
 mbongo when in squares, and, by the tedious course of trade 
 from tribe to tribe, comes even to the sea-shore. The other 
 tribes farther eastward also make this cloth. 
 
 The men are the weavers among the Apingi. The loom is 
 a complicated instrument, much resembling that used by the 
 Ashira. The loom is stretched under the verandah of the 
 house, and it is a very pretty and cheering sight, as one 
 walks along the street, to see a number of busy weavers 
 weaving this fine and very useful cloth. 
 
 The Apingi have the reputation of making the softest 
 grass-cloth in all this region. Some of their coloured patterns 
 are very pretty. The pieces, owing to the short staple of 
 the fibre used, and their inability to give it a longer twist, 
 are never more than three feet long by about two wide. To 
 work in colours, they first dye the threads, and very in- 
 geniously work them in the weaving. It is a day's work to 
 make one plain square or mbongo; and to make a coloured 
 one takes two, and sometimes three days. The square is 
 about two feet long and eighteen inches in width. When 
 sent off to bo sold they are tied up in packages of twenty or 
 thirty. In this shape they find their way even down to the 
 coast, and are everywhere used for garments, and also for 
 mosquito-bars. My bars wore always of this stuff. The 
 natives prefer it to our common trade-cottons; and here, in 
 Apiugi-land, the people did not care to exchange their cloth 
 for mine, for which I did not blame them. 
 
 To make a ndengui several of the mbongo pieces are 
 sewed together with thread and a wooden needle, and the 
 sewing is done quite as neatly as ours. The men are the 
 tailors. From six to nine cloths go to a ndengui. The 
 dandies among the Apingi wear sometimes a cloth thrown 
 
Chap. XXVI. VALUE. UF LKOVAUD tiKlNS. 347 
 
 over the shoulder, more for ornament than iiwe. The' women 
 are strictly restricted to the vciy moderate costume I have 
 already described. 
 
 The holding of property in trees of any kind is something 
 new to me in Africa, and shows that the Apingi have made 
 a very important step in advance of the Bakalai and iShekiani, 
 and all the other trihes I have met. Moreover, an Apingi 
 village stands and remains in the same place, at least for a 
 long time. They are a settled people, and need onl}- flocks 
 and cattle to make them a very prospering nation. Among 
 the other tribes described in tliis book, a town is only a 
 temporary resting-place, abandoned at the first death ; land 
 and trees, of whatever kind, are free to any one ; and even 
 with the Mpongwe of the Gaboon, who have long been imder 
 trading influence, though they cannot aiford to remove a 
 whole town, the house in which a man has died is destroyed, 
 never to be raised again on the same spot. The reader will 
 appreciate the delight with which I hailed a jjeople who 
 live on the same spot for several generations ; who cultivate 
 and acknowledge private jjroperty in trees ; and who make 
 cloth. 
 
 18</4. — Yesterday I told Eemandji I wanted to go on a 
 leopard-hunt. He immediately brought me a man who had 
 a fetich which enabled him to kill leopards ad lihitum, and 
 without personal danger. I laughed. The man said, " Laugh, 
 oh white man ! but you will see." 
 
 He went through a mass of ceremonies, then told me I 
 must not accomjiany him, but the next day I should see a 
 leopard. His big mondah would help him. 
 
 This morning he started, and, to my surprise, came in the 
 afternoon with a handsome leopard. He asked so much for 
 the skin, which they value for ornaments, that I would not 
 buy it. I suppose they must be plentiful in the forest, and 
 shall go out and kill some for myself. 
 
 The strip of skin cut from the head along the spine to the 
 tail is used here as a war-l;)elt, after being charmed by the 
 fetich-man or ouganga. This makes the weaver invulnerable, 
 they say. No spear, or arrow, or bullet can hit a man who 
 has such a belt on. Of course, as only one belt can be made 
 
348 EQOATOBIAL AFBIGA. Chap. XXVII. 
 
 from each skin, and nothing but a leopard's skin will answer, 
 these bear a high price, every warrior placing a great account 
 upon his personal safety. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXVII. 
 
 The ceremony of bongo — Ascending the Eembo Apingi — Apingi canoes 
 — ^Apingi villages and houses — Great reputation of the Apingi 
 fetiches — Quaint customs iu regard to getting a wife — Spiders — Up- 
 setting of a canoe — Apingi woman in the water — Customs regarding 
 the dead — The Samba Nagoshi Falls — Grand and beautiful sight — 
 Legend regarding the falls — The Kembo Okonda and the Bembo 
 Ngouyai — Different tribes — Eastward from the Apingi country — ^'^'> 
 more shoes — Bleeding feet — Starvation — ^ Farewell to the Apingi 
 country. 
 
 On the 20th, as I was speaking with Eemandji, a man came 
 and laid his hands on the chief's head. He said, "Father, I 
 want to serve you. I choose you for my master, and will 
 never return to my old master." 
 
 This ceremony is called hongo, and is a curious phase of 
 African slavery. It obtains more or less in all the tribes. 
 When a slave gets hard treatment from his master, and has 
 reason to be dissatisfied, he slips off to another village and 
 chooses for himself a new master. This man is obliged to 
 accept and protect him. He cannot refuse. Nor is any 
 " palaver " made on this account. No one, for instance, 
 could hold Eemandji responsible for this act. He may even 
 visit immediately the village from which the slave has run 
 away ; only the slave himself must not go back thither, else 
 he exposes himself to be reclaimed. The bongo is given 
 always to a person of another village, and always to one of 
 another family or clan in the same tribe. The technical term 
 is to " beat bongo," in allusion to the laying on of hands. 
 This singular custom has a marked influence on the condition 
 of the slaves, who have always open to them this legitimate 
 and tolerably easy avenue of escape from tyranny. It pre- 
 vents families being separated, in particular, for nothing will 
 make a slave leave his master so quickly as having his wife 
 
Chap. XXVII. ASCENT OF THE lUiMBO AVINGI. ' 349 
 
 sold away from liiiu. Even soliiary freeiueu avail them- 
 selvL'8 of this custom to secure protection. 
 
 To day canoos were being procured for an usceiit of the 
 river. They got quite a little fleet together for mo ; but all 
 are small, and so easily capsized, that navigation is by no 
 means comloitable to me, who can scaico swim a stroke. 
 However, there was no help for it, so I pj-epared for accidents 
 by tying my compass to a cord fastened about my neck, then 
 tied my gun fast by a long ropo to the canoe, which would 
 float in any case, and took, besides this, only a little box con- 
 taining a change of clothes and two pairs of shoes (the 
 most necessary article hereabouts to the tiaveller). Then 
 Remandji, myself, and a paddler, got in and started, followed 
 by the fleet. 
 
 The canoes are quite flat in the bottom, float almost 
 entirely above water, and are very well designed to stem the 
 swift current of this river, which runs, at this time of the 
 year, at the late of four or five miles pier hour. 
 
 Before we started necessity coni]iolled lue to spend a morn- 
 ing at the river-side washing my clothes. The negroes have 
 so little idea of even the commonest cleanliness, that they 
 never wash their scanty garments. 
 
 We ascended the river at a very slow rate, passing the 
 shores at the rate of about two or three njiles the hour. The 
 people sang as they paddled. I sat very still and very un- 
 comfortably in the bottom of the boat. 
 
 We passed several villages in about three hours after start- 
 ing. These Apingi villages are not as pretty to look upon as 
 those of the Ashira. In the latter I find always a verandah 
 next the house, wheie the cooking is done; while in the 
 Apingi house the same room has to serve as store-room, bed- 
 room, and kitchen. They are built of bark, as those of the 
 Ashira and many other tribes, and are covered with a matting 
 made of palm leaves. There is generally one larger house in 
 the village, which belongs to the chief. The villages have 
 no high fence or pickets, which is an evidence that the people 
 are not warlike. 
 
 We landed at the village of Agobi, a chief I had seen 
 before. He gave mo some fowls, but complained that the 
 24 
 
Chap, XXVn. PVBCUASE OP WIVES. 351 
 
 leopards had eaten up all his goats. I saw here the largest 
 ashangou-tree I ever saw. It was hung full of the olive- 
 shaped fruit. This is larger than our olives, quite fleshy, 
 and, when ripe, of a dark red colour. This tree, and a 
 number of others, Agobi told me had been' planted by his 
 grandfather, which shows that property has been respected 
 among these people for at least two or three generations. 
 Most of these villages are surrounded by groves of these trees. 
 The fruit is boiled, and has then an agreeable acidity both 
 pleasant and wholesome in this climate. 
 
 I find that the superstitions of this people are as great as 
 those of the tribes nearer the sea. They hold that death is 
 caused by witchcraft ; but yet (hey do not remove after 
 ever}' death as do the Commi, Shekiani, Bakalai, and the 
 other tribes. Among the sea-shore tribes the Apingi have 
 great repute as wizards, and Apingi-land is tlie land of 
 aniemba, where any one may leam to become a powerful 
 sorcerer. Consequently, the Apingi fetiches are very highly 
 valued by the coast tribes, especially those professing to 
 remove barrenness. I had special instructions from a number 
 of childless fathers in my town on the sea-shore to bring them 
 some Apingi mondahs. 
 
 In the evening we had a dance, and Agobi, bent on the 
 utmost civility, sent some women to dance for my especial 
 delectation. I quickly sent them back, preferring to take 
 my amusements with the mass. The African dances are 
 much alike everywhere, and had long ceased to amuse 
 me. 
 
 To-day I inquired of a young mail, who had for wife the 
 prettiest woman in the Apingi country, why he was so 
 ragged; his ndengui being all torn and worn out. He 
 calmly answered, " This woman has entirely ruined me." I 
 asked how it happened, and he replied that in order to get 
 possession of her from her husband, he had been obliged to 
 give all he possessed in the world. From this conversation 
 I learned that it was customary in the Apingi country, that 
 when a man fell in love with his neighbour's wife, and she in 
 her turn loved hira, the lover might secure her for himself by 
 giving the same amount in goods or slaves to the husband as 
 
352 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVtL 
 
 he had given to obtain hor in the first instance. Under such 
 circumstances he cannot refuse, and the -woman becomes the 
 wife of another. 
 
 As I was walking through the forest on a hunt the next 
 day, I was bitten by one of the immense yellow-spotted 
 spiders which are so numerous in all the African woods and 
 openings, and in the huts of the natives as well. Some of 
 the spiders of this country grow to an immense size. I have 
 frequently seen them with a body as large as a spiarrow's egg. 
 The house-sjjider, which lives chiefly on flies and cockroaches, 
 is mostly of a dull grey, which conceals its approach in the 
 gloom of the hut. One species of house-spider does not make 
 a web for its prey, so far as I have been able to discover. It 
 conceals itself during the day in the crevices of the hut, and 
 preys only by night. At the approach of evening, the cock- 
 roaches, which swarm in every African hut, come forth to 
 act their part of scavengers. Then, by the dim light of a 
 torch, and half-smothered with the heat, I have, for hours at 
 a time, watched the motions of this spider. It comes out 
 very carefully from its lair, and, having got a good station, 
 remains perfectly rigid and motionless often for half-an-hour, 
 waiting for some unlucky cockroach to pass by. At last 
 the cockroach, rushes past. In an instant the spider has 
 pounced upon him. Now ensues a tug and battle which is 
 of the greatest interest, and which is often pirolonged for 
 half-an-hour. The great African cockroach grows to the 
 size of an almost full-grown mouse, and is a strong and some- 
 what formidable animal to the spider. The latter fastens on 
 its back, and, to prevent being borne ofi', clings with two of 
 his hairy legs to the floor or sides. All the cockroach's 
 endeavours are to escape. Ho tugs and jerks, and often 
 succeeds in dragging his enemy off for some distance. Then 
 the spider manages to catch hold with his feet again, and 
 once more the struggle is renewed. All this time, however, 
 the spider is sucking away at the juices of the cockroach, 
 and so presently the struggles grow weaker and weaker, 
 and the poor cockroach succumbs : whereupon his enemy 
 drags off the body to some corner, where it can be finished 
 at leisure. 
 
Chap XXVII. SPIDSBS. 353 
 
 Another very large house-spider spins a web, and catches 
 its prey of flies and cockroaches as ours do. 
 
 But the largest and most numerous species are found in 
 the forest. The largo black and yellow spotted one by which 
 I was bitten spins its web in every wood. The web is a 
 bright yellow, like the same colour in the spider's body. It 
 is generally placed in an open space between two shrubs, and 
 is pften three feet in diameter. The thread is very coarse, 
 and so strong, that when, walking rapidly, I have inad- 
 vertently run against such a web, I have felt a very per- 
 ceptible resistance to my progress. The bite of this insect 
 is very painful, but not poisonous. The pain, which is like 
 running a red-hot needle into the flesh, is soon over, and the 
 wound heals up immediatel}^. I have been several times 
 bitten by this spider. 
 
 One or two species have very short legs, and flat, oval 
 bodies, surrounded by pointed spurs, looking, when taken 
 from their webs, more like bugs than veritable spiders. All 
 the wood-spiders use webs to entangle their prey. They are 
 of many colours ; but none are poisonous to man, so far as I 
 have been able to discover, by the personal trial of being 
 bitten, or by the report of the natives. 
 
 Also, during my stay at Agobi's village, I shot two remark- 
 able little animals. One, called by the Apiugi the Icendo, is 
 a squirrel, and the smallest, by far, yet known. I have called 
 this new species, Schirus minutus. 
 
 When my guide saw my shot, and the poor little thing 
 tumbling to the ground, he was greatly amazed at such skill; 
 and when wo got back to the village, the negroes told me, 
 with astonishment, that this was the first time they had ever 
 known a kendo killed. They concluded that I had a very 
 powerful mondah, by whose aid alone I could accomplish such 
 wonders. Many have begged me to make them mondahs to 
 give them skill in the hunt. 
 
 On the 20th we made about thirty miles up stream. No 
 rapids impeded our progress, and, though the current was 
 strong, the water was everywhere of good depth, averaging 
 from throe to four fathoms. This is the rainy season. The 
 eongs of numerous birds resounded gaily over the waters, 
 
354 
 
 EQUATOniAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XXV fl. 
 
 and the busy hum of insect life came with a gentle buzz to 
 us as we voyaged along. Everything was clad in brightest 
 green. The river-bank, down to the very water's edge, was 
 a mass of verdure. 
 
 In the afternoon, near sunset, the accident which I had 
 provided against happened. A canoe, attempting to cross 
 the rapid river, was borne down by the current, and, before 
 
 THE KENDO SQUIRREL {Schirus minutm) — natural size. 
 
 we could get out of the way, swept down upon us. In a 
 moment both frail boats were capsized, and the men were 
 swimming for the shore. As for poor me, I dared not trust 
 my unskilful self to the sti'eam. I clung to the canoe. 
 Happily, we were not far from shore, and Eemandji an<l my 
 paddler soon dragged the boat to where I could get a footing 
 and wade out. I could not help laughing at the old woman 
 
Chap. XXVII. TREATMENT OF TWINS. 355 
 
 wtose canoe had caused the accident. She swam off down 
 stream like a buoy, shouting continually, " Where is my 
 bunch of plantains ? Give me my plantains ! " Climbing 
 out at a bend of the river, she waited for her capsized canoe 
 to float along, secured that, and then got in again and 
 paddled off, full of complaints at losing her plantains. All 
 these Apingi swim like so many fishes, and, I suppose, have 
 occasion enough for the accomplishment, with their little 
 cockle-shell boats. 
 
 Wet as I was, and with my little box of clothes and rifle 
 soaking, we marched off to a village near which we were 
 capsized. As we entered, my nostrils were assailed by a 
 most horrible and loathsome smell. On inquiry, I learned 
 that it proceeded from the putrid corpse of a man who had 
 died seven days ago. It is their custom to keep the body 
 just as long as it will hold together. It lies in the house in 
 which it died, and the only wonder is that the stench does 
 not breed a disease. 
 
 I at once told Eemandji that I could not stay there unless 
 they buried the corpse immediately. I was accordingly con- 
 ducted to the windward end of the village, where the air 
 was but little tainted. Judge of my astonishment when, 
 presently, a man appeared, bearing upon his shoulders the 
 nearly naked and festering body. They had determined that 
 it was well to humour my prejudice, and this was the funeraf. 
 cortege. They make no cofiBn, but always bear the corpse 
 out on the shoulders of the nearest male relative. No man 
 follows the deceased to his last resting-place. There is no 
 cemetery, and they leave the body at but little distance from 
 the village. No grave is dug, but it is laid in a clear space, 
 and near it are placed some tusks of ivory, or some of the 
 bracelets or other ornaments of deceased. 
 
 While I was in this village a woman gave birth to twins, 
 and one of the children was immediately killed, the negroes 
 of this and most of the other tribes holding that if both are 
 permitted to live the mother will die. In Obindji's town I 
 once saw two boys, seven years old, who had both escaped, 
 and their mother too ; but all the people looked upon her as 
 a remarkable woman. 
 
35G EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVI I. 
 
 Salt is very scarce liero, and bears a liigli value. It is all 
 brought from tlie sea-shore, the Capo Lopez pioople making 
 considerable (j^uantitios yearly, which is then scattered over 
 the interior. Here, among the Ajjingi, it is so scarce that 
 ten pounds of poor salt will buy a boy slave. It is a great 
 luxury ; I have little doubt that they suffer for the lack of it. I 
 think the frecjuency of skin-diseases and ulcers here is caused, 
 partly, by lack of salt. 
 
 On the 24tli, having procured the largest, stoutest canoe I 
 could find, I sot off down the river to try to get a glimpse 
 of the great wonder of this region, the great fall of Samha 
 Nagoshi, of which I had already hoard so much. I was ac- 
 companied by a dozen canoes full of negroes. The stream is 
 very rapid. This was tho rainy season, and the banks were 
 filled, the water turbid and yellow, and the current swift, 
 running at tho rate of about five miles an hour. We swept 
 rapidly down stream past the villages of the Kamba, Aviia, 
 Osounga, and Njavi tribes. 
 
 Tho scenery grew grander and bolder as we advanced. 
 The mountains neared ; the banks became high and pre- 
 cipitous ; the force of the current increased ; and every mile 
 of downward progress seemed to bring us to a more magni- 
 ficent country. At last we could hear the dull boom of the 
 fall in tho distance. The negroes told me it was still a long 
 distance off — as near as I could tell, at least five or six miles; 
 but even here the river began to break up into rapids, and 
 navigation in the small Apingi canoes became too dangerous 
 to risk it farther. So I pulled the canoe to shore, and called 
 a halt. By this time it was nearly dark. We had come 
 down from Eemandjl's about sixty miles. We made our camp 
 by the side of the stream, and in hearing of tho fall, which 
 I determined to sco the next day by an overland journey. 
 
 Wo to(ik, for some distance, a path which followed the 
 course of the river, and then descended a steep bank to the 
 margin of tho river itself. Here we beheld the first rapids. 
 The bod of tho stream was encumbered with boulders of rock 
 of various sizes, through which rushed the water with great, 
 force. Wo followed the river margia for about tv.-o hours, 
 scrambling over rocks. 
 
Chap. XXVII. THE SAMBA NAGOSHI FALLS. 357 
 
 At length we emerged on the brink of the stream, and saw 
 before us a broad seething torrent, madly rushing down 
 between steep and rocky banks with deafening roar. It was 
 not a cataract, but a torrent of fearful velocity and grand 
 proportions, leaping in huge billows, as though the whole of 
 the water of the river dropped into a chasm and bounded out 
 again, over ridges of rock ; the scene was rendered more 
 magnificent by the luxuriant tropical foliage of the banks, 
 and the steep hills rising on each side, and clothed to their 
 summits with glorious foregt. The width of the stream was 
 not so great as at Luba, and the torrent roared along one 
 mass of foam as far as the eye could reach. 
 
 The stream here was about 150 yards in width, but a rocky 
 island in the middle, covered with trees, breaks the fall of 
 water into two unequal parts, only one of which could be 
 seen from either side. The right-hand Fall was about 
 seventy yards wide, the water rushing in immense volume 
 down a steep incline. Besides the island several detached 
 islets and masses of rock divided this body of water, so that 
 the cataract did not present one imposing sheet of water, as I 
 had expected, and the total fall was only about fifteen feet. 
 The rocks were of red granite, both in the middle of the Falls 
 and on the mainland. 
 
 The sight was wild, grand, and beautiful; but it did not 
 quite impress me with the awe that the rapids below inspired. 
 We see here the River Ngouyai, after flowing through the 
 Apingi valley in the interior, and receiving the waters of the 
 Ovigui and many other streams, bursting through the barrier 
 of the hilly range which separates the interior of Africa from 
 the coast-land. The high ridges which have been broken 
 through by the river rise on each side, covered with varied 
 forest, and the shattered fragments encumber the bed of the 
 stream for miles. The falls and rapids must vary greatly 
 according to the season and the amount of water in the river. 
 At the foot of Fougamou my aneroids gave an altitude of 
 347 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 Like all other remarkable natural objects, the Falls of the 
 Ngouyai have given rise, in the fertile imaginations of the 
 negroes, to mythological stories. The legend runs that the 
 
358 ■ EQUATOSIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVII 
 
 main Falls aie the work of the spirit Fougamou, who resides 
 there, and was in old times a mighty forger of iron ; but the 
 rapids above are presided over by Nagoshi, the wife of Samba, 
 who has spoiled this part of the river in order to prevent 
 jjeople from ascending and descending. The Falls to which 
 the name Samba is given lie a good day's journey below 
 the Fougamou, but, from the description of the natives, I 
 concluded they were only rapids, like Nagoshi above. The 
 Fougamou is the only great fall of water. It takes its name 
 from the spirit (rubuiri) who is said to have made it, and 
 who watches it constantly, wandering night and day round 
 the Falls. Nagoshi, the rapid above, takes its name from 
 a spirit said to be the wife of Samba, as I have already 
 stated. 
 
 A legend on this subject was related to us by our Aviia 
 guide, to the following effect : In foimer times people used 
 to go to the Falls, deposit iron and charcoal on the riverside, 
 and say, " Oh, mighty Fotigamou, I want this iron to be 
 worked into a knife or hatchet " (or whatever implement it 
 might be), and in the morning when they went to the place 
 they found the weapon finishod. One day, however, a man 
 and his son went with their iron and charcoal, and had the 
 impertinent curiosity to wait and see how it was done. They 
 hid themselves, the father in the hollow of a tree, and the 
 son amongst the boughs of another tree. Fougamou came, 
 with his son and began to work, when surldenly the son said, 
 " Father, I smell the smell of people ! " The father replied, 
 " Of course you smell people; for does not the iron and char- 
 coal come from the hands of peojDle ?" So they worked on. 
 But the sun again interrupted his father, repeating the same 
 words, and then Fougamou looked round and saw the two 
 men. He roared with rage, and to punish the father and 
 his son, he turned the tree in which the father was hidden 
 into an ant-hill, and the hiding-place of the son into a nest 
 of black ants. Since then, Fougamou has not worked iron 
 for the people any moie. 
 
 My men told me that before the moving hither of the 
 savage and treacherous Bakalai, the Apingi used to penetrate 
 down river as far as the Anenga tribe, who command the 
 
Chap. XXYII. PENETBATING EASTWARDS. 359 
 
 juuctiou of the Eembo Ngouyai and the Eembo Okanda. 
 The tribes on this bank of the river are named, commencing 
 above, the Njavi, Evili, Ngaloi, and Anenga. 
 
 I was assured that the Eembo Okanda was much larger 
 than the Eembo Ngouyai, and I know that its shores must 
 be populous, for from there are brought a great many of the 
 slaves which supply the Cape Lopez market. Eemandji, 
 who had been over the ground, informed me that the Eembo 
 Okanda was five or six days' journey off, to the north or 
 north-west, and that the intervening country was very 
 mountainous. He named the following tribes as inhabiting 
 this fine liver : the Meouandji, the Mosheho, the Madouma, 
 the Njavi, the Npovi, and the Moshobo. 
 
 Beyond these lie the Njavi, and in their country a great 
 fall or rapid obstructs the liver, which is even there a very 
 large stream. Beyond the Njavi is an unknown land even 
 to the Apingi, who had never been as far as there, but from 
 which they hear through their slaves. 
 
 On the 28th I set out on an exploration of the mountain- 
 range, which extends almost due east so far as I can see from 
 the highest point near Eemandji's village. 
 
 On the first day we made twenty-five miles due east. We 
 stopped f 'r the night in an Apingi village where we were 
 received with shoijts of welcome. Most of the people had 
 already seen me en my first arrival in Eemandji's village. 
 The next njorning we set out again, and, travelling east- 
 ward about twenty miles, reached at nightfall an Isogo 
 village, the chief of which was one of Eemandji's numerous 
 fathers-in-law. 
 
 The men armed and stood on the defensive, and the women 
 screamed and ran away when thej^ saw mo coming. If 
 Eemandji had not been with me, I suspect I should have had 
 difficulty in explaining my wishes. 
 
 The air is tolerably pure and cool on these high mountains; 
 my spirits were high ; I was now going straight east, and, 
 though I had not goods enough with me to pass me very far, 
 yet my depot at Eemandji's village was sufficiently supplied 
 to pay all I might owe. My hopes were bright that I might 
 now penetrate at least 400 miles direct east, and settle the 
 
3C0 h'QUATOEIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVII. 
 
 questioned extension of this hitherto unknown mountain* 
 range so far across the continent. 
 
 We started on the 29th. The way was somewhat rocky, 
 and the forest dense. Eoads there were not, and my com- 
 panions did not even know the country. We travelled by 
 compass, avoiding the eminences, and keeping, the greatest 
 part of the time, the rocky rivulets for our paths. Of course 
 such paths were terrible for my shoes. The first day I wore 
 out a pair of shoes, the heels giving way. Fortunately, I 
 had provided a spare pair, and I was able to go on the next 
 day. On the first night, as we slept around our fire, we 
 were awakened by the scream of a leopard, which did not, 
 however, come within shot, nor did we venture after it, as 
 man has no fair chance with this animal by night. When 
 the leopard ceased his cries, a terrible tornado came up, 
 which broke down trees and branches all around us, and this 
 was followed by a heavy rain-storm, with strong lightning, 
 which lasted till five o'clock a.m. 
 
 The next morning, donning my fresh pair of shoes and 
 making a frugal breakfast of plantains, we set out again. 
 The majestic forest through which we travelled seemed to be 
 quite devoid of life, except indeed insect life. 
 
 As we were travelling through the forest I suddenly started 
 a flock of monkeys. One of my young men, Ishoungi by 
 name, was with me. Ishoungi, who was as black as a 
 crow, had, in less than a minute, become covered all over with 
 blotches, which gave him a ghastly spotted appearance, 
 frightful and sickening to the view. It was a complete and 
 most singular metamorphosis. The swellings extended under 
 my own observation, and in less than five minutes scarce a 
 spot on his whole body was left in its pure black state. Even 
 his face was covered. His lips were disfigured, his nose put 
 out of shape, his eyes closed. 
 
 This singular disease is known to the Ashira by the name 
 oietita. The swellings are large, but of diff'erent sizes and 
 shapes, and look much as though the subject had been badly 
 scalded. The skin is raised, and a thin matter collects 
 beneath it. An intolerable itching pain follows, which makes 
 the poor sufferer scream with agony. I dropped my monkey 
 
Chap, XXVII. DENSITY OF FORESTS. 361 
 
 and led poor Ishoimgi to a little brook not far off, where I 
 sprinkled him with water, which seemed somewhat to ease 
 his pain. Presently one of the Ashira men came along, and, 
 seeing his condition, took out some yellow bark of a tree, 
 unknown to me, from a pouch he carried. This he made fine, 
 then chewed it with water in his mouth. When 'he had 
 chewed it a little he spat the juice on the other's body, and 
 Ishoungi rubbed and spread it gently. Wherever it touched, 
 the swelling went down. In little more than twenty minutes 
 — certainly less than half an hour — the swellings were gone, 
 leaving scarce any mark upon his body. 
 
 The gloom of the woods was something quite appalling to 
 the spirits. It seemed a fit place for the haunt of some 
 sylvan monster, delighting in silence and the shades of night. 
 I was on the look-out for gorillas ; but the natives did not 
 seem to expect to find even many of them here, though they 
 knew the animal. 
 
 These lifeless forests, so different from the teeming brush 
 
 WICKER-'WOEK BATTLE TO DRIVE THE DEVIL OUT. 
 
 of Southern Africa, fill the traveller with awe. Dependent 
 in a great degree upon his rifle for his living, the miserable 
 explorer finds himself here in momentary danger of starva- 
 tion. For of the cumbrous provision of the negroes it is quite 
 impossible to carry an adequate supply. With starvation 
 staring us in the face, we pushed on energetically, and by 
 the evening of the second day had made, by my reckoning, 
 about sixty-five miles from the last Isogo village, in a crooked 
 direction, or a little more than a hundred from Eemandji's 
 tovra. 
 
 The ground had been getting rougher all the day before ; 
 our paths were the course of streams ; and now, about two in 
 the afternoon, occurred what I had been dreading. My last 
 pair of shoes gave out completely. They were torn, both 
 
362 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVII. 
 
 upper and sole, and at every step my bleeding feet were more 
 and more torn, till at last the agony grew too great, and I 
 could not set a step forward without almost an accompanying 
 scream. 
 
 The pain obliged me to lie down near a brook where I had 
 stopped to bathe my wounded feet. We built a fire, and, 
 keeping my gun in readiness for any passing game, 1 sent my 
 men ahead to see if they could spy out a village. Evidently 
 the vague report of a three days' journey was a delusion and 
 a snare. 
 
 The good fellows were gone two hours. They came back 
 with a small monkey and a serpent nearly twelve feet long, 
 of the boa species. The monkey they gave me. The snake 
 made them a meal, and something over. 
 
 Then, finding it impossible to advance farther, I sent two 
 men to climb the highest tree in siglit, and fasten the 
 American flag at its top. When it floated out on the breeze, 
 I made my men give three cheers for the star-spangled 
 banner. 
 
 Of the journey back I liave but a dim and feverish recol- 
 lection. I remember that my feet got worse instead of better ; 
 that when the wretched shoes were be^-ond even tying to- 
 gether with vines, I cast them away, and bandaged the feet 
 with what remained of my shirt. That on the second and 
 third day we had not even a little bird to eat, but plunged 
 forward in a stupid apathy of hunger and pain. That on the 
 fourth morning one of the men espied a gorilla, who came 
 roaring towards us, beating his vast chest, and waddling up 
 to the attack with fierce utterances and soul-freezing aspect, 
 eyes glaring, and the monstrous face distorted with rage. I 
 remember that when my gun-carrier shot the huge beast, 
 the men rushed upon it, and tore rather than cut it up, to 
 stifle with its flesh the hunger which was gnawing at their 
 vitals. 
 
 Then we went on, relieved for a time from starvation, I 
 dragging my bleeding, bare, and swollen feet over the rough 
 and thorny ground, till at last, at noon of the fifth day, we 
 came to the Ishogo towns. 
 
 Here I lay but half-conscious for three days. The peojjle 
 
Chap, XXVII. A SORRY 1' LIGHT. 363 
 
 brought me food ; the kiud women Lathed and oiled my 
 feet. 
 
 When I could walk once more, though not without pain, I 
 returned to Reraandji's, packed up my few goods and journals, 
 and set out on the way bade. For the first time in my life I 
 was home-sick — really and thoroughly home-sick. 
 
 When I told Eeinandji that I must return, he called 
 Minsho and said, " The spirit must go back. We are sorry ; 
 but as it is his will, we must submit. Wait, however, that 
 we may get him food, that he may not be hungrj" on the 
 way." Thereupon the people brought me fowls, plantains, 
 
 APINGI TOOLS. — 1. axe; 2. BIPANO. 
 
 and manioc. The kendo I was requested to keep, " that when 
 you come back you may be our master." 
 
 Eemandji also gave me two beautiful grass caps done in 
 fine crochet- work, and which have excited the admiration 
 of many ladies in this country for the neatness of their 
 work. 
 
 I gave the old chief my knife and fork, and afterwards, at 
 tiis own special request, covered the walls of his hut inside 
 with some New York papers which I had received on my way 
 to the Ashira, and whose columns had helped to while away 
 my inactive days here in the far interior. He was very 
 proud of this, and promised to preserve them till the next 
 
364 mtlATORtAL APBlCA. Chap. XXVIL 
 
 white spirit came to see him, to whom it will doubtless be a 
 curioiis spectacle. He said, " When, in after years, I tell the 
 people from far away that a white spirit came to see me and 
 was my friend, they will say, ' Yon lie.' Then I will show 
 them these things which you have left me. Then they will 
 believe." 
 
 I was presented with a large anvil of iron, used by the 
 Apingi in their blaoksmithing operations; but it was tor 
 heavy to carry off, and moreover, as iron is the gold of these 
 people, it would have been cruel to rob them. They work 
 iron very neatly, but not to so great an extent as the Fan, 
 who are the best blacksmiths I saw in Africa. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 A long absence — Wrecked in the breakers — Once again with my faithful 
 Commi — Sangala, Malcombe, Binkimongani dead — Eanpano and his 
 superstitions — I receive fresh suppUes — Departure for the interior — 
 Arrival at Goumbi — Quengucza invokes the spirits of his ancestors — 
 Departure from Obiudji — Advice of Quengueza to ray men — Once 
 more in Ashira-laud — A whole group of gorillas — Quarrels between 
 my men and the Ashira — The small-pox — A terrible plague — De- 
 parture of Quengueza — Fearful effects of the plague — Death of King 
 Olenda — A valley of the dead. 
 
 After a long absence I found myself on the Guinea coast in 
 the beginning of the year 1863 prepared to make further 
 explorations. I was once more among my faithful Commi 
 on the banks of the Fernand Vaz river, but at a standstill ; 
 for I had had the misfortune before landing to be upset ia 
 the terrific breakers which line the coast here, and had lost 
 many useful and valuable objects, among them my scientific 
 instruments. I had only been saved from a watery grave 
 through the superhuman efforts of my canoe-men, ^vho were 
 splendid swimmers. 
 
 Death had been busy during my absence. Old Sangala, 
 the chief of Elinde, at the mouth of the river, was dead, and 
 
Chap. XXVIII. DEATH OF OLD FRIENDS. 365 
 
 his widuws had all married again ; but they gave me a warm 
 welcome, especially the old konde (head wife), who cooked 
 my food for nae whilst I stayed, and became eloquent in re- 
 calling the events of the good old times when Sangala was 
 alive. Her husband showed no jealousy at this discourse, 
 for here widows are allowed freely to praise their former 
 husbands. 
 
 At the village of Makombe I found that the chief was 
 dead, and that Ilougou, his heir, who had helped me to build 
 my former settlement of Washington, had been accused of 
 having caused his death by witchcraft, and forced to drink 
 the mboundou ordeal, which ended in his own life being 
 sacrificed. It is dangerous in this unhappy country to be 
 the heir of any man who sickens and dies. 
 
 Einkimongani was also dead. I felt the loss of the honest 
 old fellow, who, the natives told me, was continually talking 
 of me during my absence, counting the seasons as they rolled 
 past, and carefully guarding the house and gardens, in the 
 firm hope that 1 should soon return. It was universally 
 believed, of course, that he had been bewitched through 
 jealousy of my friendship) for him. 
 
 I went to the burial-ground to see his grave. The road to 
 it from my hut led across the prairie and through a few 
 groves of trees to the margins of one of those pretty islands 
 of wood which diversify the sandy grass-land of the Fernand 
 Vaz. The cemetery was recognisable from a distance by the 
 numerous poles fixed in the ground. Einkimongani's body 
 had been placed in a box or coffin ; it is only, however, the 
 head men who are laid in boxes, and they are not interred in 
 the earth, but laid, according to the old native habit, on the 
 surface, or inserted a small depth into the ground. The 
 wood of my old friend's coffin was decayed, and I could see 
 his mouldering bones inside, together with the remains of 
 his valuables that were buried with him, consisting of jugs 
 and pots, a quantity of brass buttons, the remains of a coat, 
 and an old umbrella-stick, which was all that was left of this 
 article, a present from me, and which he always carried 
 about with him. 
 
 Old Eanpano had some strange notions about witchcraft, 
 25 
 
.%6 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVUL 
 
 spirits good and bad, which I think were peculiar to him. 
 One day he took into his head that he should die if he entered 
 my hut, for ho had been told that some one having an ani- 
 emba (a witch) had made a mondali, and had put it under the 
 threshold of my door, so that, should he enter my hut, the 
 witch would go into him and he would die. 
 
 No persuasion of mine could induce the old chief to come 
 into my hut, and after a time I got angry with him, and 
 told him that he ought not to refuse to come and see me. 
 The good old chief immediately sent for some doctors, who, 
 of course, at once declared that it was true that some one 
 wanted to bewitch him, and had put a mondah at my door to 
 kill him. But they said it could be removed now that the 
 people knew that there was one. 
 
 Immediately the ceremonies for banishing the witch began.' 
 For three consecutive days th-ey danced almost incessantlj'', 
 and invoked the good spirits ; and one fine morning, whilst 
 I was occupied in writing inside the hut, unaware that any 
 one was ajjproaohing, Eanpano came to my door, fired a gun, 
 and enlered the hut in a great hurry, muttering invocations 
 and curstjs ; he then became easier in his manners, having, as 
 he thought, thus cleared the moral atmosphere: 
 
 One day a schooner appeared in the ofSng, and soon after- 
 wards the news came that the little vessel was for me. My 
 friends, Messrs. Thomas Baring, Joshua Bates, and Eussell 
 Sturgis, of the firm Baring Brotheis, had at my request 
 despatched this small craft loaded with all the necessaries 
 for my expedition without knowing even if I should ever be 
 able to repay them ; but soon afterwards the vessel sailed 
 back to them loaded with a cargo of ebony which Quengueza 
 and Obindji had cut in the meanwhile while I was waiting, 
 and also a young live gorilla was consigned to them, which 
 unfortunately died on the voyage. 
 
 At last I was enabled to start for Goumbi. Quengueza was 
 to accompany me as far as the Ashira-land. 
 
 The day before my departure, on the 28th October, I was 
 awakened by the beating of the kendo, the voice of the old chief 
 invoking, in loud tones, the spirits of his anceetors to protect 
 us on our journey. 
 
Chap. XXVIII. 31 ¥ BODY-GUAKD. 3G7 
 
 Quengueza appeared with his body, face, forehead, and 
 arms marked with patches of different colours from the ochre 
 cakes of his alimibi house. These cakes had, according to 
 custom, been saturated, some of them generations before, by 
 tlie decaying heads of his ancestors. 
 
 The roll of his ancestors was a foimidable one — Igoumbai, 
 Wombi, Eebouka, Ngouva, Ricati, Olenga Yombi, and many 
 others. 
 
 From Goumbi we proceeded to Obindji, whore, on the eve 
 of our departure into new countries, old Quengueza made a 
 speech to my men. " You are going into the great forest," 
 said he ; " you will find there no one of your tribe ; look up 
 to Chaillie as your chief, and obey him. Now, listen to what 
 I say. You will visit many strange tribes. If you see on 
 the road, or in the street of a village, a fine bunch of plan- 
 tains with ground-nuts lying by its side, do not touch them, 
 leave the village at once ; this is a tricky village, for the 
 people are on the watch to see what you do with them. If 
 the people of any village tell you to go and catch fowls or 
 goats, or cut plantains for yourselves, say to them, ' Strangers 
 do not help themselves ; it is the duty of a host to catch the 
 goat or fowl, and cut the plantains, and bring the present to 
 the house which has been given to the guest.' When a 
 house is given to you in any village, keep to that house, 
 and go into no other; and, if you see a seat, do not sit upon 
 it, for there are seats which none but the owners may sit 
 upon. But, above all, beware of the women ! I tell you 
 these things that you may journey in safety." The speech 
 of the old sage was listened to with great attention. Like 
 most other good advice, it was not followed ; if it had 
 been, many of my subsequent troubles would have been 
 avoided. 
 
 I chose for my body-guard ten faithful negroes. It was on 
 these men that my own safety, among the i-avage and un- 
 friendly tribes we might expect to meet within the far 
 interior, depended. I knew I could thoroughly rely upon 
 them, and that, come what might, they would never hurt a 
 hair of my head. It would have been better if I could 
 have obtained twenty-five Commi men, but this was not 
 
368 EQVATOUIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVIIL 
 
 possible. Many were willing to go, but their parents 
 objected. 
 
 The best of them were Macondai, now grown a stalwart 
 
 r 
 
 OPAITAI, OR rOBTEK's BASKET. 
 
 young man and completely devoted to me, and my hunter 
 Igala, a good and faithful friend. Igala I considered my 
 right-hand man. He was a negro of tall figure and noble 
 bearing, cool and clear-headed in an emergency, brave as a 
 
Chap. XXVIII. QVENGVEZA AND HIS FETICH. 309 
 
 lion, but with me docile and submissive. In our most 
 troublesome marches he used to lead the van, whilst I brought 
 Tip the rear to see that the porters did not run away with 
 their loads. I could always rely upon him ; and, with twenty 
 such as he, there would be little difficulty in crossing Africa. 
 He was also my taxidermist, for I ha 1 taught him to skin 
 and preserve animals. His rejiutation was great amongst the 
 (,'ommi as a hunter, and he u.sed to make quite a trade by 
 selling fetiches to the credulous people who wished to possess 
 liis skill and good luck in this respect. Igala, however, had 
 a, weakness ; he was too amorous, and his intrigues with the 
 wives of chiefs gave me no end of trouble. Another good 
 man was Eebouka, a big strapping negro, whose chief faults 
 were bragging and a voracious appetite. Then there were 
 Igalo, next to Macondai the youngest of the party, a light- 
 coloured negro, excitable and tender-hearted ; and Mouitchi, 
 Retonda, Rogueri, Igala (the second), Eapelina and Ngoma 
 — six slaves which belonged to the interi(jr given to me by 
 the various chiefs whose friendship I had acquired on the 
 banks of the Fernand Vaz. I dressed my men all alike in 
 thick canvas trowsers, blue woollen shirts and worsted caps. 
 Shirts being the more important article of dress, they had 
 three each. Trousers I had found it quite necessary for 
 negroes to wear on a march, as they protected the legs from 
 the stings of insects, fi'om thorns, and many other injuiies to 
 which they are liable. Moreover each man had a blanket to 
 keep him warm at night. All tbe six slaves had volunteered 
 to accompany me ; they were not forced to go, against their 
 will, at the command of their masters. Most of these men 
 now handled fire-arms for the first time, and the possession 
 of a gun to the six men who had been slaves all their lives 
 was one of the inducements which made them willing to 
 accompany me. 
 
 Quengueza never travelled without his fetich, which was 
 an ugly little pot-bellied image of wood, with a row of four 
 cowries embedded in its abdomen. As he generally wore an 
 old coat when he travelled with me, he used to keep this 
 dirty little thing in one of the pockets. Waking or sleeping 
 the fetich was never suffered to be away from him. When- 
 
■.no EQUATORIAL AFIllGA. Chap. XXVIII. 
 
 ever he ate or drank he used to take the image and gravely 
 pass its belly with the row of projecting cowries over his 
 lips, and when I gave him anything to drink he would always 
 take it out and pour a libation over its feet before drinking 
 himself. It used to puzzle mo where the four sacred cowries 
 came from ; I believe they came across the continent from 
 Eastern Africa. 
 
 Next morning we marched over a wild, hill}', and wooded 
 country until eleven o'clock, when we emerged on the pleasant 
 undulating grass-land of Ashira. An extensive prospect here 
 lay before us; to the south extended the Igoumbi Andele 
 and Ofoubou Orere ranges of hills, and to the north the 
 lofty ridges of the Nkoumou Nabouali, riear which lie the 
 Falls of Samba Nagoshi. At two p.m. we entered, in the 
 midst of the firing of guns and great hubbub, the village of 
 Olenda, where we were received with great demonstrations 
 of joy. — 
 
 An assembly of the bead -men of Ashira-land, presided 
 over by King Olenda, was held to discuss the important 
 subject of my journey towards the east. 
 
 I learnt, in the course of the palaver, the cause of Olenda's 
 opposition. It appeared that after I had left, the Apingi, the 
 people could not comprehend what had become of me, and 
 Remandji their chief had much trouble with them. They 
 declared he had hid me in the forest, with the intention of 
 keeping me for himself. So they came in a body to ask him 
 what had become of me. They also demanded that he should 
 give them some of the presents I had given him. A few 
 days afterwards Remandji died, and his son shortly followed 
 him. The cry of witchcraft of course was raised, one party 
 saying that some of the neighbouring people had killed their 
 chief, through envy of his possession of the ntangani, whilst 
 others (and these pi-ovailed) said that I had killed him, 
 wishing, on account of the friendship I had for liim, to 
 cany him with me to my own country. The present chief, 
 I afterwards learnt, had secretly sent messengers to Olenda 
 to warn him against forwarding me through his country. 
 ITe said that be did not want to follow the " spirit," as 
 Remandji and his son had done, but would prefer to stop 
 
Chap. XXVIII. PLANTAIN-GROVES. 371 
 
 at home and eat plantains. The present world was good 
 enough for him. 
 
 After a long discussion it was decided that I should go 
 through the Otando country, and that Olenda should send 
 forthwith a messenger to the chief, apprising him of the 
 intended visit, and requesting him to send a party of men 
 to help in carrying my baggage. This is the best, and, 
 indeed, the only plan of getting from place to place in this 
 part of Africa. 
 
 ■ One of my excursions in the neighbourhood of Olenda was 
 to the village of my former friend the chief Angouka. 
 
 The most remarkable feature about his place was the great 
 extent of his plantain-groves. It was the largest plantation 
 of this tree I had ever seen in Africa ; there being, according 
 to my calculation, about 30,000 trees, most of them planted 
 about five feet apart. Each tree would bear, on an average, 
 half a dozen shoots, which would in time grow to trees, but 
 the natives generally cut all these away except two or three. 
 The bunches of plantain produced by each tree weighed from 
 20 to 40 lbs., but I found many weighed as much as from 
 80 to 120 lbs. No cereal could give in the same space of 
 ground so large a supply of food. There were many 
 varieties ; some bear about six months after the sprouts are 
 planted, others eight or ten months, and others again not 
 before eighteen months ; these last generally bear the largest- 
 sized bunches. The sight of this great plantation, with the 
 magnificent foliage covering the gentle hollows and slopes, 
 was most pleasing. 
 
 While in the Ashira prairie I made different explorations 
 of the forest. In one of the excursions my men were tired 
 with the exertions of the day before, for we had been wet 
 all day, so, to keep them up to the speed, I led the column 
 myself. We were soon buried again in the shades of the 
 forest. It was a wild, desolate district, and I marched along 
 in anything but ,a cheerful mood. I was a little ahead of my 
 party, when my reverie was suddenly disturbed by a loud 
 crashing and rustling in the trees just before me. Thinking 
 it might be a flock of monkeys feeding on some wild fruit- 
 tree, I looked up, peered through the thick foliage, and was 
 
372 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVIIL 
 
 thoroughly roused by seeing on a large tree a whole group ot 
 gorillas. I had nothing but a walking-stick in my hand, but 
 was so struck at the sight that I was riveted to the spot. 
 Meantime the animals had seen me, and began to hurry 
 down the tree, making the thinner boughs bend with their 
 weight. An old male, apparently the guardian of the flock, 
 alone made a bold stand, and stared at me through an open- 
 ing in the foliage. I could see his hideous black face, 
 ferocious eyes, and projecting eyebrows, as he glared defi- 
 ance at me. In my unarmed condition I began to think of 
 retracing my steps, but the rest of my party coming up at 
 the moment, with clatter of voices, altered the state of 
 things. The shaggy mcmster raised a cry of alarm, scram- 
 bled to the ground through the entangled lianas that were 
 around the tree-trunk, and soon disappeared into the jungle 
 in the same direction as his mates. 
 
 The first days of the New Year were spent by me in much 
 anxiety of mind. There were, in the first place, many 
 unpleasant disputes with the Ashira people, on account of 
 the intrigues of my Commi men with the native women, and 
 these led to a quarrel between me and Mpoto, Olenda's 
 nephew, who was very violent. Mpoto was a hot-headed 
 negro, never well disposed towards strangers. He came, 
 with the intention of making a disturbance, one morning 
 from his village, which was within a short distance from 
 Olenda, and singling out my head-man, Igala, pointed a 
 loaded gun at his head. I was obliged to interfere, otherwise 
 blood would have been shed, and only prevented him from 
 firing by levelling a revolver at him. All my men had 
 seized their arms, and a general melee was imminent. Igala 
 behaved like a brave fellow as he was, facing the enraged 
 Mpoto when the muzzle of the gun was within a few feet of 
 his head, and you could not see a muscle move in his fearless 
 countenance. Olenda interposed afterwards as peace-maker, 
 and Mpoto was so terrified at the old man's threatening to 
 curse him, that he bent down, and, taking hold of the 
 patriarch's feet, implored his forgiveness. I threatened and 
 chastised my men, but all my endeavours to put a lasting 
 end to the evil were fruitless. 
 
•■ %> S*»^^^ '^^iM. ^^^ JK* .toiMF ^m fti^ */Ti( xSSkSk ^ " >^ ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 f^ 
 
 GOniLLAS SUKPRISED IN TUB FOBKST. 
 
374 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXTITI. 
 
 Wliilst we were engaged in collecting a sufficient number 
 of Ashira porters to aid in transporting my baggage, a most 
 serious cause of anxiety arose. 
 
 Elanga, one of Olenda's nephews, was taken ill with, a 
 disease which the natives had never before seen. It waB 
 described to me, and I thought I recognised in the descrip- 
 tion the symptoms of small-pox. The next day the news 
 came from a neighbouring village that Elanga had died. 
 There was a great deal of mourning and wailing among the 
 people ; and all the inhabitants of Olenda, with the exception 
 of the old king, went to join in the wild manifestations of 
 grief. Now, Elanga was one of the Ashira men who had 
 been to Obindji to fetch my baggage, and a suspicion of 
 foul play or witchcraft, as usual, arose in the minds of the 
 Ashira people, which, in addition to the other causes of 
 unfriendliness, threatened to embarrass my movements. 
 After the lapse of a few days, two other cases of the disease 
 occurred, also in men who had carried my goods from the 
 Bakalai country. I began to be alarmed, for I knew what 
 havoc such a pestilence would cause amongst these people 
 if it gained head. But I had no fear for myself, for I had 
 been, fortunately, re-vaccinate<l in London a fortnight before 
 I left England, little thinking what I should have afterwards 
 to pass through. 
 
 The first step I took was to keep my Commi men away 
 from the places where the disease had shown itself. This 
 was remarked by the people, and their suspicions were 
 strengthened. They began boldly to accuse me of having 
 introduced the eviva (thing that spreads, i.e., the plague), or, 
 as they sometimes called it, the opunga (a bad wind), amongst 
 them ; they declared that I had brought death with me 
 instead of bringing good to the people ; that I was an evil 
 spirit ; that I had killed Bemandji, king of the Apingi, and 
 so forth. 
 
 At length the calamity which I had so much dreaded came 
 upon us ; the plague broke out with gieat violence in Olenda 
 village, causing obstacles to the progress of my expedition 
 which had well-nigh proved fatal to it. The first victim was 
 the head wife of Olenda himself. The awful scourge spread 
 
Chap. XXVIII. OUTMBEAK OF SMALL-POX. 375 
 
 with a rapidity that frightened me. Several of the mourners 
 who had been to Elanga's funeral had fallen ill of the disease. 
 This was not to be wondered at, considering their style of 
 mourning, the relatives and neighbours all surrounding the 
 corpse, touching and even embracing it, whilst crying out, 
 " Do speak to us — do not leave us ! Oh, why do you die ? " 
 I had urged Olenda not to allow these mourning ceremonies 
 to take place, telling him of the results that would follow. 
 None of the people of the surrounding villages would come 
 near us. In a few days more than half the people of Olenda 
 caught the infection. I became alarmed for the safety of the 
 noble old Quengueza and his men ; and my first desire was 
 to see him free from the danger, and returning to his 
 own country. But he refused to It ave me. " Chaillie," said 
 lie, " I cannot go back. I came here to see you through 
 this countiy, and I should feel shame to leave you in your 
 troubles." 
 
 It was in vain, however, that I tried to get Quengueza to 
 send away his little boy. When I went to see him, I found, 
 to my horror, that be had got the boy in his hut, laid on a 
 mat near his own, and was nursing him with the tenderest 
 care. If the noble old fellow had caught the disease himself, 
 it would have completely put an end to my expedition ; 
 besides, many of his own people were going in and out of 
 the hut, and all my quarantine regulations were totally 
 upset. To my expostulations the old man only replied, " If 
 I get the plague, it will be God's (Aniembie's) palaver." 
 
 Three times I had mustered porters for my onward journey, 
 and had each time been disappointed through the poor fellows 
 falling ill of the epidemic before even the packing of the 
 loads was completed. I had now given away a large quan- 
 tity of my goods, and had much reduced my baggage ; but 
 still it would require more men to carry it than were now 
 in a condition to work in Olenda's village. Thirty men were 
 iill that could be mustered at the command of Olenda, and 
 they are so proud that they would not go to another clan to 
 get porters from among their friends. The bargaining for 
 pay was the m(!St difficult I had ever experienced. The 
 rascals knew the difficiilty I was in, and increased their 
 
37G EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXVIII. 
 
 demands accordingly. When settling the price of their 
 services, all the older men took my part in the haggling 
 match, beating down the demands of the younger ones ; of 
 course lookinii; forward to the natural reward of their parti- 
 sanship in higher pay for themselves. 
 
 My plan now was to get all my own men away from the 
 small-pox by sending them on first with part of the goods to 
 the Otando country, under the guidance of Arangui, myself 
 intending to follow with the rest of the baggage on Arangui's 
 return. To this arrangement my faithful lads would not 
 agree at all. They conferred together, and then told me 
 they would not leave me here alone. " Who," said they, 
 " in the midst of this fearful sickness, is to cook for you 
 and wash your clothes ? These Ashira may poison you, by 
 putting the gall of a leopard into your food. Some of us 
 must remain with you, come what may ! " I was obliged to 
 accede to their wishes, and chose five of them to remain 
 with me, Macondai, Ngoma, Igala (Quengueza's slave), Igalo, 
 and Ketonda. The rest, Igala, Eebouka, Mouitohi, Eapelina, 
 Kogueri, together with the porters, who comprised all the 
 disposable men of Olenda's clan, departed on the following 
 morning. This division of my party was a great mistake on 
 my part ; it tempted the Ashira people to form a plot to 
 plunder me. 
 
 Quengueza now left me to return to Goumbi. He believed 
 I was now well on my way to the white man's country, and 
 told me not to forget to bring him back a big bell, a silver 
 sword, a brass chest, and plenty of fine things. On parting 
 he took my two hands in his own, blew on them, and invoked 
 the spirits of his ancestors to fake care of me. 
 
 After Quengueza's departure the small-pox increased its 
 ravages. Not a day passed without its victims, each fresh 
 death being announced by the firing of guns, a sound which 
 each time pierced through me with a pang of sorrow. From 
 morning to night, in my solitude, I could hear the cries of 
 wailing, and the mournful songs which were raised by the 
 relatives round the corpses of the dead. The curses of the 
 natives fell thick on me as the author of their misfortunes. 
 To these miseries another one was soon added in the shape of 
 
Chap. XXVIII. DEATH OF OLENDA. "ill 
 
 famine. There was no one left to gather food ; and my men 
 in searching for it in the neighbouring villages were driven 
 back aud threatened with death by the terror-stricken 
 inhabitants, who believed that we were the carriers of the 
 plague and of the famine. 
 
 All Olenda's wives were down with the disease ; but, 
 happily, the king himself remained my friend, and as long as 
 he had food he shared it with us. But sorer trials than 
 famine were in store for us. One wretched night a sudden 
 wailing burst forth, and soon became general throughout the 
 village. It was the announcement of the death of Mpoto, 
 the favourite nephew and heir-apparent of Olenda. The 
 tremulous and feeble voice of poor old Olenda was heard in 
 the early morning singing the plaintive songs of grief. 
 The death of Mpoto was imputed by the people to me, on 
 account of the quarrel I had had with him ; and a general 
 complaint was made that, whilst all the Ashira were falling 
 ill, the white man's people were untouched. "We were in 
 great danger of being attacked by the enraged people of 
 Mpoto, and had to keep watch for some time with loaded 
 revolvers ready at hand. He was the last of his clan to be 
 struck down with the disease, if, indeed, it was the small-pox 
 of which he died. In fact, he, Macondai, and I, were the 
 only people remaining ta ell at that time, for my three other 
 faithful lads had, to my infinite grief, fallen ill with the 
 worst type of the infection ; Ngoma, especially, was a great 
 suiferer, for the skin sloughed off his body in large patches ; 
 his face was swollen up, and the putrid smell that came from 
 his body was dreadful. He lay beside my bed ; for there 
 was no hut but my own in which I could put him. Igala, 
 Quengueza's slave, was in almost as bad a state. 
 
 Soon after this came the final blow — Olenda himself 
 sickened and died ! No one can imagine the anxiety I felt 
 when, one morning, he complained to me of burning heat and 
 thirst. The fever increased in the course of the next two 
 days, and with it weakness and drowsiness, but without any 
 external appearance of small-pox. When I sat by his bedside, 
 the old man, seeing my sorrowful countenance, would say, 
 " Do not grieve, Chaillie ; it is not your fault ; you have not 
 
378 EQUATORIAL AFBICA. Chap. XXVIII. 
 
 caused my illness, I know it." On the third night a sudden 
 cry of anguish from house to house in the village, the mean- 
 ing of which I knew too well, told me that my only remaining 
 friend was no more. 
 
 Happily, matters took a better turn than I expected. His 
 relatives consoled me, saying that although Olenda was 
 dead, his clan had not died with him ; he had left people 
 liehind him, and they would carry out his wishes, and see 
 that I had j>orters to take my baggage to Otando. This day 
 Macondai fell ill. A high fever, the precursor of the small- 
 pox, seized him, and for a week I knew not whether I should 
 lose my beloved boy. And now I was indeed alone, with no 
 one to help me. I had to fetch water, to search for firewood, 
 and to cook for myself, as well as for all my poor stricken 
 followers. 
 
 The villagers exerted themselves to procure food for me. 
 Those who were now well enough crept towards the planta- 
 tion to get plantains for me ; and even the invalids, men and 
 women, sent me offerings of food, saying, " We do not want 
 our stranger to be hungry." 
 
 Poor Olenda was buried in the cemetery of the chiefs of 
 tlie Ademba clan, the clan of Ashira over which he had been 
 the head. The cemetery was in a little grove of trees just 
 outside the village. I gave the people powder to fire a salute 
 at the funeral, and they came and begged from me an umbrella 
 to bury with him, this being an article which it was thought 
 very necessary and desirable to bury with their chief. There 
 was great grief on the burial day ; the women shaved their 
 heads, dressed themselves in rags, and besmeared their bodies 
 with ashes; and as the body was carried out of the village, 
 cries of anguish and lamentation were heard ; all the people 
 shouting out, " He will not take care of us any more — he will 
 not speak to us any more. Oh, Olenda, why have you left 
 us ! Oh, Olenda, why have you left us ! " The corpse of the 
 old chief was placed on the ground, in a sitting posture, 
 euTcloped in a large European coat which I had given him, 
 and by his side was the umbrella ; the head looked already 
 like a skull, covered with dry, wrinkled, parchment-like 
 skin. By his side lay a chest containing the various presents 
 
Chap. XXVIII. MAVAGES OF THE SMALL-POX. 379 
 
 I had given him, and also plates, jugs, cooking utensils, bis 
 favourite pipe, and some tobacco, and a fire was burning, 
 which the people keep alight day and night by the corpse of 
 a chief, sometimes for many weeks. There was also a plate 
 of victuals, brought, according to the custom of these jjeople, 
 for the corpse to eat, and renewed daily for some time. All 
 around lay the bones of the ancestors of the Ademba chief. 
 For several mornings after his burial the people came to me 
 and declared that they had seenOlenda the jirevious evening, 
 walking in the village, and that he had told them that he 
 had not left them entirely, but would come from time to time 
 to see how they were going on. 
 
 TJie once cheerful prairie of Ashira had now become a 
 gloomy valley of the dead ; each village was a charnel-house. 
 Wherever I walked, the most heartrending sights met my 
 view. The poor victims of the loathsome disease in all its 
 worst stages lay about in sheds and huts ; there were hideous 
 Bores filled with maggots, and swarms of carrion flies buzzed 
 about the living but putrid carcases. The stench in the 
 neighbourhood of the huts was insupportable. Some of the 
 sick were raving, and others emaciated, with sunken eyes, 
 victims of hunger as well as of diseas •. Many wretched 
 creatures from other villages were abandoned to die in the 
 bush. How I bewailed my hard fate, and wished myself 
 back, even though it were only as a street-sweeper, in one of 
 the cities of Europe ! 
 
 The small-pox gradually diminished from sheer lack of 
 victims for further ravages ; but the Ashira people had 
 grown more distrustful, and something was evidently going 
 wrong. At length three of my men suddenly made their 
 appearance from Mayolo. They had left all well, but, to my 
 surprise, told me that Arangui had left two days after their 
 arrival in Mayolo, and must therefoie have long ago arrived 
 in Ashira. Some underhand movement was evidently going 
 on, probably with a view to plunder me, and I suspected 
 Ondonga to be at the bottom of it, as it was he who had 
 repeatedly told me that Arangui still remained in Otando. I 
 soon learnt, on further inquiry, that several of the loads had 
 never reached Mayolo at all, that the porters had gone back 
 
380 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Cuap. XXIX. 
 
 to their plantations with them, no doubt Ly order of Arangui, 
 ■who would have a large share of the spoil afterwards; the 
 porters had scattered themselves along the forest road, some 
 sleeping in one place and some in another, and almost every 
 load had been rifled of part of its contents. My followers 
 had been tired of waiting for me, and they told me that the 
 Otando messengers, who had returned in such hot haste, 
 were driven from Ashiraland by the threats of Arangui, who 
 had seized one of them, and made him prisoner ; and thinking 
 that something was wrong, my men had resolved to despatch 
 three of their number, weU armed, to know the cause of my 
 detention. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 Departure from the Asliira country — Crossing tlieOvigiii again — A village 
 of slaves and tlieir plantations — I am plundered — Illness of Macondai 
 — He is left behind — A beautiful forest tract — Eobbed again by my 
 porters — The Koola nut — Hunger — The Mpogni nut. 
 
 At length, after several months of weary delay, the hour 
 arrived for our departure from the Ashira settlement. I had 
 suffered in this unfortunate place more than words can 
 describe ; racked with anxiety on account of the fearful 
 epidemic which had dogged my footsteps. My party of ten 
 men had become reduced to seven. Eetonda was dead ; Igala 
 (Quengueza's slave) was left behind, although much better ; 
 and tiogueri, the slave given to me by Makaga Nchango, had 
 run away. But as he was an inveterate thief, I did not 
 regret his loss. Yet I should have been happy, if I could 
 have felt that the dreaded plague was left behind us, for we 
 were now again en route towards countries never before 
 visited by a European. 
 
 About a mile or so east of Olenda commences the great 
 forest which bounds the eastern side of the Ashira prairie ; 
 and |ust within its borders flows the impetuous Ovigui. I 
 crossed by a bridge — a slippery log lying across the torrent, 
 with a rope of lianas stretched from tree to tree to hold on 
 
Chap. XXIX. A SLA VE VILLAGE. 38i 
 
 by. There had lieon a very heavy rain the previous night, 
 and the Ovigui had overflowed its banks, forming three 
 channels separated by islands. 
 
 A march of about a mile beyond the river brought us to a 
 large plantation, the chief slave settlement of the late King 
 Olenda. The plantation extended over a picturesque and 
 undulating tract of ground, with brooks of crystal water in 
 the hollows. In places where these cool streams flowed 
 under the shade of trees, their banks were most delightful, 
 being overgrown with rich vegetation, and the trunks and 
 branches of the trees overhead covered with vines and 
 jiarasitic plants. The great quantity of plantain-trees in the 
 open ground, with their gigantic, glossy leaves, the patches 
 of ground-nuts, and the light green blades of the sugar-cane, 
 gave a pleasant aspect to the place, and hid the charred 
 trunks and stumps of trees which are otherwise so unsightly 
 in these clearings. 
 
 The slave village had its chief, himself a slave, and all 
 called themselves the children of Olenda. He was an 
 Ashaugo man, a chief in his own country, and probably sold 
 into slavery on account of witchcraft. He was a savage of 
 noble bearing, and apparentlj^ of good disposition. He had 
 several wives and a large family of children. The other 
 slaves called him father, and he exercised quite a patriarchal 
 authority over them. 
 
 "We spent the night here, and early the next morning 
 Ondonga arrived with the porters. The first disagreeable 
 news I heard was that several of them had run away before 
 starting, taking, of course, their pay with them. I next 
 discovered that three of my boxes were missing. Notwith- 
 standing the protestations of Ondonga, I was convinced that 
 he was at the bottom of another plot to rob me in the midst of 
 my troubles. He appeared, however, rather alarmed at what 
 had been done, and in the course of the day the boxes were 
 brought in, but they had been opened and rifled of half their 
 contents. At this, Ondonga pretended to be in a violent rage 
 with the unknown thieves, and declared in a loud voice that 
 there should be war against those who had dared to rob his 
 white man. For a moment I thought he was sincere, and 
 26 
 
382 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIX. 
 
 that, being young, his authority as successor to Olenda was 
 not sufficiently estaLlished over his unruly clan to prevent 
 me from being robbed by his subjects. The old slave-chief 
 joined in the well-acted cry of indignation, and actually put 
 spears into the hands of his sons, and bid them go forth with 
 the rest to demand the restitution of my property. They 
 then all hurried out of the place, shouting, cursing, and 
 vowing death to the thieves. 
 
 A greater calamity to me than the loss of my property, 
 and the desertion of several frightened porters which fol- 
 lowed, was the illness of Macondai, who had been at last 
 struck down with the small-pox. We could not delay our 
 journey, and I was very reluctant to leave him behind, on 
 many accoimts. When we resumed our march he tried to 
 walk with us, but he became so ill that we were forced to 
 come to a stand. I held, as was my custom in cases of diffi- 
 culty concerning the safety of our party, a palaver with my 
 faithful body-guard, but to my proposition that I should 
 remain behind and take care of Macondai they opposed a 
 decided negative. The poor lad himself prayed us to leave 
 him. " All your porters will desert you," said he, " if you 
 do not go on, and you will never reach Mayolo." We finally 
 decided to leave Igala with him at a plantation in the 
 neighbourhood, and Ondonga promised, with every appear- 
 ance of good-will, to send people to take care of him. 
 
 We now continued our march. The country became more 
 and more picturesque at every step. We were seven days on 
 the road between the slave village and Mayolo; but this 
 included considerable stoppages, for the road is a narrow path 
 through a most varied and picturesque but dense forest, 
 clothing the hills and valleys of the mountain range, which 
 extends in a north and south direction,- between the Ashira 
 and the Otando territories ; a continuous ridge, broken up 
 into a great number of hills, of greater or less elevation, with 
 steep slopes and narrow valleys ; tlie highest elevation at 
 which I crossed the range was about 1,200 feet. The hills 
 are of j^rimitive rock ; and numerous blocks of quartz lay 
 strewed along the path nearly all the way. Quartz crystals 
 also covered the beds of the sparkling brooks that flowed at 
 
Chap. XXIX. I AM ROBBED. 383 
 
 the bottom of every vtilley, all running in a northerly 
 direction. It was impossible to see far on either side of the 
 path ; in many places there was a dense growth of underwood, 
 including a dwarf species of palm-tree, and the ground was 
 strewn all over with wrecks of the forest in the shape of 
 broken and lotting branches, upturned trees, and masses of 
 decaying leaves. 
 
 It was most toilsome marching up the steep hills, en- 
 cumbered with the weight of our loads. A few miles south- 
 east of the plantation, we came unexpectedly upon a most 
 enchanting sight. One of the numerous tributaries of the 
 Ovigui here descends from the upper valleys, down the 
 broken hill-side, in a most lovely cascade, filling the neigh- 
 bouring forest with spray and favouring the growth of 
 countless ferns and glossy-leaved plants. There was, how- 
 ever, throughout the whole march a great scarcity of animal 
 life. 
 
 But guides and porters alike were bent on plundering me. 
 I found it impossible to keep them all together. All sorts of 
 excuses were invented for lagging behind, and I soon made 
 the discovery that they were hiding their provisions in the 
 bush — a sign that they intended to rob me and run away by 
 the same road. 
 
 On the first and second nights I ordered all the loads to be- 
 piled up near to the shed under which I slept, but on the 
 third night, when we were assembled together to sleep, 
 Mintcho and several of the porters were not forthcoming. 
 They had stayed behind and did not overtake us till the next 
 morning. On their arrival, Mintcho took the bull by the 
 horns and told me to look into some of my boxes, for he 
 thought they had been opened and plundered. lie accused 
 others of being the thieves, and mutual recriminations ensued, 
 which ended in several of the porters laying dnwn their 
 loads and running away, and the rest (including some of the 
 thieves) declared that it was of no use going any further, as 
 the white man had been robbed and would not give them 
 their pay. On opening some of the boxes I found a great 
 number of valuable articles had been stolen. I was im- 
 prudent enough, at first, to accuse Mintcho of knowledge of 
 
381 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIX. 
 
 the tliefts, a step wliioli nearly led to my being left alone in 
 the wilderness. I was obliged to retract, and allay bis fears 
 by saying that I did not hold him responsible. Towards the 
 evening of the fourth day we came to a standstill ; so many 
 porters had run away, that there were no longer men enough 
 to carry our goods. 
 
 The weather was stormy, and it was almost impossible to 
 shelter ourselves from the rains which fell every night. We 
 could find no large leaves to make a good thatch fijr our sheds. 
 As time went on, hunger came to add to our miseries. We 
 were now reduced to very slender rations indeed. 
 
 I gathered our party together, and consulted with them 
 as to what was best to be done. To my suggestion that some 
 of the Ashira men should go forward to Miiyolo and ask for 
 porters, Mintoho and his friends opposed a decided negative. 
 Neither would they allow two of their men and two of my 
 Commi boys to go to Mayolo. I finally resolved to send 
 Mouitchi, with the Otando man who had been Arangui's 
 prisoner. He departed with the promise of returning in two 
 days with men to carry our goods, and a supply of food. 
 
 I was now left with the Ashira rascals, eight in number, 
 and vyith only two of my faithful Commi men to aid me in 
 keeping watch over them. Wo were encamped in a small 
 open space in the loneliest and gloomiest part of the forest, 
 on the top of a long sloping path which led into a deep 
 valley on the Otando side. We were absolutely without 
 food, myself and my two men Eebouka and Ngoma having 
 agreed to watch in our turns the Ashira, who pretended to 
 be asleep on the opposite side of the road. My baggage, 
 alas ! still too large and the cause of all my troubles, lay 
 piled up beside our camp fire in front of us. 
 
 We whiled away the early hours of night in talking of 
 Quengueza and the country by the sea-shore, or in relating 
 and listening to legends and fables. 
 
 The following legend, connected probably with some natural 
 phenomenon in one of the neighbouring rivers, is a sample of 
 these African stories: — 
 
 Atungulu Shimba was a king who attained the chief 
 authority in his village by right of succession, and built 
 
Chap. XXIX. ATUNGULU SHIMBA. 385 
 
 eight new houses. But Atungulu had sworn that whosoever 
 should quarrel with him he would eat him. And so it really- 
 happened until, finally, after eating his enemies one after the 
 other, he was left alone in his dominions, and he then married 
 the beautiful Arondo-ienu, daughter of a neighbouring 
 king. 
 
 It was Atungulu's habit, after his marriage, to go daily 
 into the forest to trap wild animals, with the Ashinga net, 
 leaving his wife alone in the village. One day Njali, the 
 eldest brother of Arondo-ienu — for Coniambie (King of the 
 Air), their father, had three sons — came to take back his 
 sister out of the clutches of Atungulu Shimba ; but the king 
 arrived unexpectedly and ate him up. Nest came the 
 second brother, and he was also eaten. At last came 
 Eeninga, the third brother, and there was a great fight 
 between him and Atungulu, which lasted from sunrise to 
 midday, when Eeninga was overpowered and eaten like his 
 two brothers before him. 
 
 Eeninga, however, had a powerful fetich on him, and came 
 out of Atungulu alive. The king, on seeing him, exclaimed, 
 " How have you contrived this, to come back ? " He then 
 smeared him and Arondo-ienu with alumbi chalk, and putting 
 his hands together, blew a loud whistle, saying afterwards, 
 " Eeninga, take back your sister." He then went and threw 
 himself into the water, to drown himself, through grief for 
 the loss of his wife. 
 
 Before dying, Atungulu Shimba declared that if Arondo- 
 ienu ever married again she would die ; and the prophecy 
 came true, for she married another man and died soon after. 
 Her brother Eeninga, thereupon, through sorrow for the loss 
 of his sister, threw himself into the water in the place where 
 Atungulu died, and was drowned. 
 
 "At the spot where Atungulu Shimba died a stranger sees, 
 when he looks into the deep water, the bodies of the king 
 and Arondo-ienu side by side, and the nails of his beautiful 
 wife all glittering like looking-glasses. Prom that time, 
 water had obtained the property of reflecting objects, and has 
 ever since been called by the name of Arondo-ienu, and 
 people have been able to see their own images reflected on its 
 
366 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXIX. 
 
 surface, on account of the transparency given to it by the 
 bright nails of Arondo-ienu.* 
 
 Hunger came, but there was no food to be had. There 
 was no help fur it, but to divide our party and go in search 
 of something to eat in the forest ; some, therefore, went to 
 look for Koola nuts, and others took their guns and wandered 
 in search of monkeys, or any other game they might find. 
 The whole day passed, however, without anything being 
 found, and we again went supperless to bed. 
 
 It was unfortunate for us that Koola nut-trees were so 
 scarce in the part of the forest where we now lay, for this 
 valuable nut is generally an unfailing resource at this season 
 of the year. The natives never think of taking with them much 
 food on a journey in the season when Koola nuts are ripe, but 
 trust in finding their daily bread, as it were, under the trees. 
 The tree is one of the tallest and finest in these forests. It 
 grows singly, or in small groups, and yields so abundantly 
 that, when the nut is ripe, the whole crown appears one mass 
 of fruit. The nut is quite round, and has a very hard shell, 
 so liard that it has to be broken with a stone. The kernel is 
 about as large as a cherrj', and is almost as compact in 
 substance as the almond. It is very nourishing and whole- 
 some ; about thirty nuts are enough for a single meal. The 
 wild boar feeds on them in the nut season, and becomes 
 extremely fat with the nutritious diet. 
 
 The next day I wont also mj'self into the bush, accompanied 
 by an Ashira boy, and leaving Eebouka armed to the teeth 
 to watch my baggage. I was so much weakened by hunger 
 and anxiety that I could scarcely walk. For a long time I 
 could find no traces of game of any kind. 
 
 I returned weary and hungry to the camp, and tried to 
 sleep under my shed. But I could not sleep, and, in my 
 prostrate condition, visions passed through my mind of the 
 many good dinners I had eaten at the hospitable boards of 
 my friends. Dinners which I had entirely forgotten now 
 lecurred to my memory with an almost morbid vividness. I 
 could tell eveiy dish, and recalled the pleasant savour of 
 many good things. 
 
 * lenu means " lookiDg -glass " in the languages of tribes near the sea. 
 
Chap. XXIX. THE MPEG VI NUT. 387 
 
 But things began to mend. The Ashira returned from 
 their chase snocessful, having killed two monkeys. These 
 men who had so remorselessly plundered me, and with whom 
 my relations had been for a long time none of the pleasantest, 
 came forward with great disinterestedness and gave the whole 
 of the meat up to me. I refused however to take it, and told 
 them that they were to divide it among themselves. They 
 insi.-.ted, however, upon giving me the lion's share, which I 
 did not a second time refuse, and a most hearty and refresh- 
 ing meal we made off our monkey. 
 
 On the following day, hour after hour passed and no arrival 
 from Otando. The Ashira men began to feel uueas}'. They 
 thought something was in preparation against them ; that 
 Mayolo was mustering a force to come and punish them for 
 their treachery to the white man, and for their imprisonment 
 of an Otando subject. I had great difficulty, as the day wore 
 on, to prevent them from leaving me. 
 
 At length voices were heard in the valley on the Otando 
 side, then the report of a gun, and up bounded the long line 
 of Otando men, headed by Eapelina, to the rescue, laden 
 with provisions, and merry as crickets. Ma^'olo had sent for 
 my own use a stock of Mpegiii nuts, two fowls, and plenty of 
 plantains. The arrival was most welcome, for wo were again 
 helple.-s with hunger. We had been again without food all 
 day, and it was now evening. 
 
 Mpegui nuts are the product of a large tree which grows 
 abundantly in some parts of the forest, but is nowhere 
 planted by the natives. The nut is quite different in form 
 from the Koola nut already described. It is round, but the 
 kernel is three-lobed and full of oil. The oily nature of the 
 nuts enables the natives to manufacture them into excellent 
 cakes, by pounding them in a wooden mortar, and enclosing 
 the pulp in folded leaves, and then subjecting it to the action 
 of smoke on a stage over a wood-fire. They eat it generally 
 with meat as we do bread, but when animal food is scarce it 
 forms a good reserve, and is very palatable, seasoned with a 
 little salt and pepper. 
 
388 EQUATORIAL AFRICA Chap. XXX 
 
 CHAPTEE XXX. 
 
 ArriTal in the Otando prairie — Milyolo — Present of food — Mdyolo makes a 
 speech — Illness of Mayolo — Arrival of Macondai — Surgical practice of 
 the Otandos — A female doctor — Tlie legend of Akenda Mbani — Pro- 
 tecting the village against witchcraft — My speech to Mayolo — Speech 
 of Igala — Mayolo gets tipsy — Monkeys as food — I send men to 
 Apono-land — Their reception — The people wonder at ray powerful 
 magnet — The Otando people — Native dogs. 
 
 On the evening of the 24th March we emerged from the 
 gloom of the forest into an open tract of grass-land, the 
 Otando prairie. A wide stretch of undulating country lay 
 open before us; the foreground of which was formed by 
 prairie, the rest appearing as a continuous expanse of forest 
 with long wooded ridges in the distance, one behind the 
 other, the last and highest fading into blue mist in the far 
 distance. As we approached the village of Mayolo, we fired 
 off the customary signal-shots, and these brought a response 
 of the same kind. The chief of the village possessed only one 
 old Tower-marked musket, minus the stock, which had long 
 been worn out ; it was still, however, a good gim. Powder 
 was a scarce article in this inland country, and nothing but 
 the hope of getting more from me could have induced Mayolo 
 to waste his small stock. 
 
 A number of men soon made their appearance, and led us, 
 with loud cheers, to the palaver-house of the village. The 
 beating of the kendo was then heard, and Mayolo himself 
 was seen in the street advancing towards us ; his body 
 streaked with alumbi chalk, and muttering mysterious words 
 as he slowly marched along. On being seated, and after 
 stopping tlie beating of the kendo, he looked towards my 
 Ashira guides, and exclaimed, " So here he is at last, the 
 great spirit with his untold wealth ! " Then, turning to me, 
 he told me of the great trouble he had had with the Otando 
 people, who had tried all thej' could to dissuade him from 
 receiving me, saying that I brought the plague and death 
 wherever I came. 
 
 Mayolo was the principal chief of the Otando country. He 
 was a man of striking appearance; tall, broad-shouldered, 
 
Chap. XXX. MY INTRODUCTION TO THE CHIEFS. 389 
 
 and very light-coloured for a negro. His eyes were small 
 and piercing, and there was in them far more intelligence 
 than is usually seen in negroes. His right hand had lost 
 several of its fingers through the bursting of a gun, for he 
 had been, in his younger da5's, a great elephant-hunter, and 
 his bravery was well known all over the neighbouring 
 countrj'. He had a pleasant expression of features, notwith- 
 standing that his face was daubed with ochre-coloured chalk 
 of various shades ; one cheek being red and the other nearly 
 white, including the circuit of the eyes. His people seemed 
 to regard him with great reverence. 
 
 After Mayolo retired, a present of a large goat and two 
 enormous bunches of plantains was biought in. We had a 
 great feast that evening. It was astonishing to see the 
 quantity my Commi men could consume. Negroes can stand 
 hunger well for a few days, but they make amends for it 
 when food is put before them in abundance. 
 
 At a gathering of the head men of the neighbouring vil- 
 lages, belonging to Mayolo's clan, there was much speechify- 
 ing and excitement. Mayolo swelled with pride on intro- 
 ducing the white man to them, and as I spread out the goods 
 I intended for each of them as payment for the men they 
 had sent to my assistance, he exclaimed, pointing at the 
 goods : " Look ! this is the sort of plague the white man 
 brings among us. Would you ever have had any of these fine 
 things if I had not invited him to come?" The appeal was 
 not to be resisted. They all went away at the end of the 
 palaver in good humour, and the next morning brought into 
 the village presents of fowls, goats, ground-nuts, and plan- 
 tains. After this there were more speeches, and then the 
 important ceremony, for me, of making return presents to all 
 the donors. I had previously shown Mayolo what I intended 
 to give, and he had remonstrated with me for giving them 
 too much, saying they did not know the value of the things. 
 I adhered, however, to my purpose, and was rather astounded 
 to hear Mayolo, on coming out of the hut, tell the chiefs that 
 he had been persuading me to give each of them a good 
 present ! On their side they tried to look dissatisfied, and 
 demanded more. This J. resisted, and made a show of taking 
 
390 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX. 
 
 back the whole. They all laughed and said, " No, we were 
 only trying it on ; " and looking at one another, they added, 
 " He is a man ! " which means he is not to be humbugged, 
 and is a high compliment. 
 
 We had been only four days in Otando-land, when, to my 
 great sorrow and vexation, Mayolo fell seriously ill. Thus it 
 was my fate to see another chief cast down after my arrival 
 in his country. Should Mayolo die, I felt that my expedition 
 must come to an end, for it would be impossible to drive 
 the idea out of the heads of the superstitious negroes that my 
 presence was the cause of the death of their chiefs. The 
 heat in the shade was about 92° Tahr., and in the sun it 
 reached 130° or 135° Fahr. I took, at night, several lunar 
 observations, ascertaining the distances between the moon 
 and Venus and between the moon and Spica, and obtained 
 also several meridian altitudes of stars. It was fortunate 
 that the scoundrels had not robbed me of all my stock of 
 (juinine and calomel. 
 
 l^he great heat of the weather culminated on the evening 
 of the 5th of April, and we then had a most terrific storm, 
 with claps of thunder exploding over our heads that made 
 the whole place shake with the concussion. Deluges of rain 
 accompanied the electric explosion, and the weather became 
 much cooler. 
 
 April 8th. To-day one source of anxiety was taken off my 
 mind in the arrival of Igalo with my poor boy Macondai. 
 The state of Macondai was, however, a great drawback to my 
 rejoicing. 1 was horrified on beholding him. His head was 
 swollen and covered with pustules, the nose seemed literall}' 
 eaten up, and his body was in the same state. But the worst 
 sight was one of his legs ; it was so swollen that it looked 
 more like the foot of an elephant than that of a human being. 
 
 On the 22nd of April I saw a curious example of the 
 surgical practice of the Otando people. In the stillness of 
 the afternoon, when the heat of the vertical sun compels 
 every one to repose, I was startled by loud screams, as though 
 some unfortunate being was being led to death for witchcraft. 
 On going to the place, 1 found a helpless woman, who was 
 afflicted with leprosy, and suffering besides under an attack 
 
Chap. XXX. NATIVE SVBGEONS. 391 
 
 of lumbago, undergoing an operation for the latter disease at 
 the hands of the Otando doctor and his assistants. They had 
 ni;ide a number of small incisions in the back of the poor 
 creature with a sharp-pointed knife of the country, and were 
 rubbing into the gashes a great quantity of lime-juice mixed 
 with pounded cayenne-pepper. The doctor was rubbing the 
 irritating mixture into the wounds with all his might, so that 
 it was no wonder that the poor creature was screaming with 
 pain, and rolling herself on the ground. It is wonderful to 
 observe the faith all these negroes have in lime-juice mixed 
 with cayenne-pepper. They use it not only as an embroca- 
 tion, but also inteinally for dysentery, and I have often seen 
 them drink as much as half a tumblerful of it in such cases. 
 The pepper itself I believe to be a very useful medicine in 
 this climate, for I have often found benefit from it when 
 unwell and feverish, by taking an unusual quantity in my 
 food. 
 
 I must relate what I saw afterwards in the course of 
 Mayolo's illness. I knew the old chief had been regularly 
 attended by a female doctor, and often wondered what she 
 did to him. At length one morning I happened to go into 
 his house when she was administering her cures, and 
 remained, an interested spectator, to watch her operations. 
 Mayolo was seated on a mat, submitting to all that was done 
 with the utmost gravity and patience. Before him was 
 extended the skin of a wild animal. The woman was 
 engaged in rubbing his body all over with her hands, mut- 
 tering all the while, in a low voice, words which I could not 
 understand. Having continued this wholesome friction for 
 some time, she took a piece of alumbi chalk and made with it 
 a broad stripe along the middle of his chest and down each 
 arm. This done, she chewed a quantity of some kind of rootle 
 and seeds, and, having well charged her mouth with saliva, 
 spat upon him in different places, but aiming her heaviest 
 shots at the parts most affected. Finally, she took a bunch 
 of a particular kind of grass, which had been gathered when 
 in bloom and was now dry, and, lighting it, touched with the 
 flame the body of her patient in various places, beginning 
 at the foot and gradually ascending to the head. Mayulo 
 
392 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX. 
 
 smarted with the pain of the burns, when the torch remained 
 too long. When the flame was extinguished the woman 
 applied the burnt end of the torch to her patient's body, and 
 so the operations ended. 
 
 I was much amused one evening, whilst my men and a 
 number of villagers were lying about the fires near our 
 encampment, by a story or parable related by a very talkative 
 old fellow who seemed to be the wag of the village. It was 
 as follows :— ■ . 
 
 Akenda Mbani. 
 
 Eedjioua had a daughter called Arondo, and she was very 
 beautiful. Eedjioua said, " A man may give me slaves, goods, 
 or ivory to marry my daughter, but he will not get her ; I 
 want only a man that will agree that when Arondo falls ill, 
 he will fall ill also, and that when Arondo dies, he will die 
 also." Time went on ; and, as people knew this, no one came 
 to ask Arondo in marriage ; but, one day, a man called 
 Akenda Mbani (" never goes twice to the same place ") came, 
 and he said to Eedjioua, " I come to marry Arondo, your 
 daughter ; I oome, because I will agree that when Arondo 
 dies, I will die also." So Akenda Mbani married Arondo. 
 Akenda Mbani was a great hunter, and, after he had married 
 Arondo, he went hunting, and killed two wild boars. On 
 his return, he said, " I have killed two boars, and bring you 
 one." Eadjioua said, " Go and fetch the other." Akenda 
 Mbani said, " My father gave me a nconi (a law) that I must 
 never go twice to the same place." Another day he went 
 hunting again, and killed two antelopes ; on his return, he 
 said to Eedjioua, " Father, I have killed two kambi (ante- 
 lopes), I bring you one." The king answered, " Please, my 
 son-in-law, go and fetch the other." He answered, " You 
 know I cannot go twice to the same place." 
 
 Another time he went hunting again, and killed two 
 bongos (a kind of antelope). Then Eedjioua, who saw that 
 all the other animals were being lost, said, " Please, my son- 
 in-law, show the people the place where the other bongo is." 
 Akenda Mbani replied, " If I do so I am afraid I shall die." 
 
 In the evening of the same day a canoe from the Oroungou 
 
Chap. XXX. LEGEND OF AKENDA MBANI. 393 
 
 country came with goods, and remained on the river side. 
 Akenda Mbani said to his wife Arondo, " Let us go and meet 
 the Oroungous." They saw them, and then took a box full 
 of goods and then went back to their own house. The people 
 of the ■village traded with the Oroungous ; and, when the 
 Oroungous wanted to go back, they came to Akenda Mbani, 
 and he trusted them ten slaves, and gave them a present of 
 two goats, and many bunches of plantains, mats, and fowls ; 
 then the Oroungous left. Months went on ; but, one day, 
 Arondo said to her husband, " We have never opened the box 
 that came with the Oroungous. Let us see what there is in 
 it." They opened it, and saw cloth ; then Arondo said, 
 " Husband, cut me two fathoms of it, for I like it." Then 
 they left the room ; then Arondo seated herself on the bed, 
 and Akenda Mbani on a stool, when suddenly Arondo said, 
 " Husband, I begin to have a headache." Akenda Mbani 
 said, "Ah, ah, Arondo, do you want me to die?" and he 
 looked Arondo steadily in the face. He tied a bandage round 
 her head, and did the same to his own. Arondo began to cry 
 as her headache became worse ; and, when the people of the 
 village heard her cry, they came all round her. Kedjioua 
 came, and said, " Do not cry, my daughter ; you will not die." 
 Then Arondo said, " Father, why do you say I shall not die? 
 for, if you fear death, you may be sure it will come." * She 
 had hardly said these words than she expired. Then all the 
 people mourned, and Eedjioua said, " Now my daughter is 
 dead, Akenda Mbani must die also." 
 
 The place where people are buried is called Djimai ; the 
 villagers went there and dug a place for the two corpses, 
 which were buried together. Eedjioua had a slave buried 
 with Arondo, besides a tusk of an elephant, rings, mats, 
 plates, and the bed on which Akenda Mbani and Arondo 
 slept; the cutlass, the hunting bag, and the spear of Akenda 
 Mbani were also buried. The people then said, "Let us 
 cover the things with sand, and make a little mound." 
 When Agambouai (the mouth-piece — the speaker of the 
 village) heard of this, he said to Eedjioua, " There are 
 
 * Wlien an African is ill, his friends consider it wUI cause his death to 
 say he will die. 
 
391 EQUATOnjAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX. 
 
 leopards here." Then Redjiuua said, " Do not have a mound 
 over my child's burial-place, for fear that the leopards might 
 come and scratch the ground and eat the corpse of my child." 
 Then the people said, " Let us then dig a deeper hole," and 
 they took away Arondo and Akenda Mbani, and placed both 
 on stools, and then dug and dug, and put back the things 
 that were to be buried with Arondo, and then laid her in her 
 place. Then they came to Akenda Mbani, who then awoke 
 and said, " I never go twice to the same place ; you put me 
 in the tomb and you took me away fiom it, tliough all of you 
 knew that I never go to the same place again." When 
 Eedjioua heard of this he became very angry, and said, " You 
 knew that Akenda Mbani never goes twice to the same place; 
 why did you remove him ? " Then he ordered the people to 
 catch Agambouai, and cut his head oiF. 
 
 Moral. 
 
 Formerly it was the custom with married people that when 
 the woman died the man should die also, and vice versa. But 
 since the time of Akenda Mbani the custom is altered, and 
 the husband or the wife no longer die with their partners. 
 
 To protect the village from the wizards who might enter 
 it from the neighbouring villages, and who had been accused 
 as the cause of Mayolo's troubles, the doctor, accompanied by 
 the whole of the people, went to the paths leading to 
 Mayolo from other villages, and planted sticks at intervals 
 across them, connecting the sticks by strong woody creepers, 
 and hanging on the ropes leaves from the core of the crowns 
 of palm-trees. It is a recognised law among these people 
 that no stranger can come within these lines. When I asked 
 Mayolo what he would do if any one was to force the lines, 
 he said there would then be a grand palaver, but that there 
 was no fear of such an event, for it never happened. 
 
 I learnt to-day that the Otando man, who had accompanied 
 me from Olenda, had since died of the plague, and the people 
 of other villages had naturally come to the conclusion that 
 his being in contact with me was the cause. He was one of 
 Mayolo's fathers-in-law. 
 
Chap. XXX. MY SPEECH TO MAYOLO. 3U5 
 
 I now called my people, and Mayolo and his people, 
 together, and made a formal and resolute demand to be fur- 
 nished with guides and porters to the Apoiio country. The 
 speech which I made on this occasion was in the following 
 words : — 
 
 " Mayolo, I have called you and your people togettier, in 
 order that you may hear my mouth. When one of your 
 people goes to the Ashira country to make trade, his heart 
 is not glad until his friends there have given him twde, 
 although he may have been well treated in the meantime, 
 had plenty given him to oat, and a fine woman lent him as a 
 wife. When you go to the Apono country in order to get a 
 slave on trust from your friend the chief, or some large tusk 
 of ivory from an elephant he has killed, you are not satisfied 
 until he has sent you back to your village with the slave 
 or the ivory ; and your friend never fails to send you back 
 with your desire granted. It is the same if you go to a man 
 whose daughter you are very fond of, and who has promised 
 to give her to you as a wife. For if, when you go to 
 his house to get his daughter, instead of her he gives j'ou 
 plenty of food, your heart is not glad, though you have 
 plenty to eat. The food will taste bitter, for it is not what 
 you came for ! 
 
 " So it is with me : I am not happy. I have not come to 
 you, Mayolo, to make trade, to get slaves and ivory, or t(j 
 marry your daughters. If I had come for these things, I am 
 sure they would have been given to me long ago. (The 
 assembly here all shouted ' Yes ! they would have been given 
 to you long ago ! ') 
 
 " But you all know that I have not come for these things. 
 I told you when I came, and you knew it before, that I 
 wanted to go further away. I love yon and your people. 
 (Interruptions of ' We know you love us.') You have been 
 kind to me and to my men. Though some of them have 
 slept with your women, you have done nothing to them. 
 You have given us plenty to eat ; you have stolen nothing 
 from my men or from me; I have been here as if in my own 
 village. (Here they cried out, 'It is your own village; you 
 are our king,' Mayolo leading the chorus.) If I wanted to 
 
396 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX. 
 
 get angry witli you, I could not find a single cause for it. 
 (At this Mayolo stiffened himself up and looked around, 
 quite proud.) A few days after my arrival you, Mayolo, fell 
 ill. You have a good head ; you know that I did not make 
 you ill. I was very sorry to see you ill, for I have a heart 
 like yourself. How could I like to see Mayolo, my only friend, 
 ill? (Here Mayolo smiled, and looked prouder than ever.) I 
 love you, and I love yotir people for your sake. (Shouts of 
 ' We are all your friends.') I am not an evil spirit ; I do not 
 delight in making people ill ; I do not bring the plague, 
 for it was in your country before I came. (Loud shouts of 
 ' Eovano ! ' — it is so.) My own people have also been ill ; 
 how could I make them ill ? If you wanted to go amongst 
 other tribes, would j'ou spread illness before you ? So it is 
 with me ; to go into the interior I must make friends. The 
 plague goes where it likes and asks nobody. The people are 
 afraid of me ; they do not see that I bring them fine things : 
 beads, looking-glasses, cloth, and red caps for their heads. 
 These are things that I wish to leave with the people wher- 
 ever I go. 
 
 " Now, Mayolo, you are getting better. You have a say- 
 ing among yourselves that a man does not stand ahme in the 
 world ; he has friends, and there are no people who are with- 
 out friends. You Otando have friends among (he Apono and 
 Ishogo people, where I want to go. If you ask trade of these 
 friends, they give it to you. I come to you to ask you the 
 road. Come and show me the road through the Apono 
 country ; it is the one I like the best, for it is the shortest. 
 I will make your heart glad, if you make my heart glad. I 
 have things to give you all, and I want the news to spread 
 that Mayolo and I are two great friends, so that after I am 
 gone people may say, ' Mayolo was the friend of the Oguizi.' " 
 
 The last part of the speech was received with tremendous 
 shouts of applause, and cries of " Eovano ! Eovano I " Mayolo 
 joining in with the rest. 
 
 Mayolo deferred his answer to the next day. The men 
 were seated round in a semi-circle, the women forming a 
 cluster by themselves, and in front was stationed a boy 
 holding a goat, by the side of which were two bunches of 
 
OiiAP. XXX. I TREAT MAYO LO. 397 
 
 plantains ; my own people were also present. Mayolo began 
 his speech, and, as is customary, addressed a third person, 
 Igala, saying : — 
 
 " When a hunter goes into the forest in search of game, he 
 is not glad until he returns home with meat. So Chaillie's 
 heart will not be glad, until he finishes what he wishes to 
 do. I have heard what Chaillie has told me. I am a man. 
 Chaillie, the Oguizi (spirit) has come to Mayolo; I am 
 Mayolo ; there is no other Mayolo but me. I am ashamed 
 at this long delay ; I have a heart, and Chaillie shall go on. 
 The people are afraid of Chaillie ; we all know that he is a 
 spirit ; from the time of our fathers were born, his like has 
 never been seen. I am Mayolo, and Chaillie shall go on his 
 way, and then his heart will be glad." 
 
 Then turning to me, he said : " During the days you have 
 to wait, take this goat and these two bunches of plantains, 
 and eat them. We shall soon be on the long road, but I 
 must feel the way first ; we must do things little by little. 
 You cannot catch a monkey, unless you are very careful in 
 going to it." 
 
 I answered one of their sayings. " If you had said ' Wait, 
 wait,' and I saw that you were not telling me the truth, the 
 goat you have just given me could not be good, and I would 
 have returned it to you, for it would- taste bitter ; but I 
 believe you." 
 
 Thus I had to content myself whilst Mayolo was exerting 
 himself to open the way for me into Apono-land. In the 
 afternoon I made Igala cut, with a lancet, into the abscess 
 on Mayolo's shoulder, which gave him great relief after the 
 discharge of the matter. The good fellow thanked me very 
 much, and we became better fiiends than ever. Next day he 
 was so much elated with the improvement in his health, that 
 hii got tipsy on a fermented beverage made with ripe plan- 
 tain. All the people of the village had a jollification in the 
 evening to celebrate the recovery of their chief; Maj'olo 
 being the most uproarious of all, dancing, slapping his chest, 
 Qnd shouting " Here I am alive ; they said I should die 
 because the spirit had come, but here I am." 
 He had several of the jars of the country full of the 
 27 
 
308 EQUATOHIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX. 
 
 fermented beverage. Fortunately, ho was very inoiFensive 
 when under tlio influence of drink. Scarcely able to stand 
 steady, be came up to me, crying out, " Here I am, Cbaillie, 
 well at last. I tell you I am well, Oguizi ! " and, in order 
 to prove it to me, be began to leap about and to strike tbo 
 ground with his feet, saying, " Don't you see that I am well? 
 The Otando people said, the Apono said — as soon as they 
 heard that you had arrived in my village—' Mayolo is a dead 
 man ! ' As soon as 1 fell ill, they said, ' Mayolo will never 
 get up again ! ' " 
 
 Throughout the month of April I frequently regaled 
 myself wilh what I used to consider a very good dinner: 
 that is, a haunch of monkey cooked on the grill. Formerly 
 .1 had always hud a great aversion to eating monkeys (not, 
 however, from any ideas about their relationship to man), 
 but hunger and the scarcity of other animal food had com- 
 pelled me lately to make many a meal on these animals. 
 This is the height of the monkey season in Otando-land, the 
 season lasting through March, April, and May, during which 
 months they are so fat that their flesh is really exquisite 
 eating. I know of no game better or more relishing ; the 
 joints must be either roasted or grilled, to bring out the 
 flavour of the meat to perfection. At all other times of the 
 year except these three months monkeys are lean, tough, and 
 tasteless. Many wild fruit trees are now in full bearing and 
 the monkeys have splendid feed. I finished my dinner with 
 pine-apple as dessert. 
 
 The whole country is very rich in spiders ; they are oi 
 wonderful diversity of form. Some of them are so large, 
 and their webs so strong, that birds are said to be caught in 
 them. There are house-spiders, tree-spiders, ground-spiders. 
 These spiders are exceedingly useful, and rid the country of 
 many unpleasant flies. How many times I have seen them 
 overpower prey which seemed much stronger than them- 
 selves ! The web-spiders seemed to have but a few enemies, 
 but the house and wall-s[iiders, which make no web, have 
 most inveterate enemies in the shape of two or three kinds oi 
 wasps. During the day I have seen these wasps travelling 
 along the walls with a rapidity that astonished me, and, 
 
Chap. XXX. EFFECTS OF MY MAGNET. 393 
 
 finally, wLen coming tu a spidur, immediately iiouiiot; upon 
 (ho iinfiiituualo insect and overpower it by tLe (jiiickness of 
 the movements of their legs, and succeed in cutting one after 
 the other the legs of the spider close to the body, and then 
 euck it, or fly away with it to devour it somewhere else. 
 
 Oshoumouna and the men sent by Mayolu to open the 
 way for me into Apono-land, returned, frightened away by 
 the reception they had met with from the people of the Apono 
 village to which they had gone, and which is situated on the 
 riglit bank of the Rembo Ngouyai. As soon as they said who 
 they were, and that they had beads with which to buy some 
 salt — for the Apono trade a good deal in salt, paying for 
 it in slaves — the villagers shouted but, " Go away ! go away ! 
 We don't want to have anything to do with the Oguizi, or 
 with the jieople who have come in contact with him ! We 
 do not want your beads ! We want nothing that came with 
 the Oguizi ! " 
 
 Many people of Mayolo's clan came to see, before I left the 
 country, the many wonderful things I had bro^Ight with 
 me. I got out a galvanic battery, and experimented on sucli 
 of them as I could persuade to touch the handles. When they 
 felt the shock they cried out " Eninda !" this being the name 
 of a species of electric fish found in the neighbouring streams. 
 They all cried, "Why did you not show >is these things 
 before ? " I exhibited my largo magnet, which I knew wouhl 
 astonish them. I asked one man to come near with his 
 Apono sword, and staggered him by taking it out of his 
 hand with the magnet. I asked for other swords and knives. 
 All were handed to me at arm's length, for they were afraid 
 nf approaching the magical instrument, to which the red 
 paint gave additional terrors. When they saw their knives 
 and swords sticking to the magnet without dropping, some- 
 times by the edges and sometimes siderways, they all shouted 
 out ; " He is surely an Oguizi (spirit) to do these things." 
 I invited them to take the instrument in their hands, but 
 they dared not ; Mayolo's curiosity eventually overcame his 
 fears, and he handled the magnet with the air of a man who 
 is doing something very courageous. 
 
 As the time approached for our departure, a marked in- 
 
400 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX. 
 
 crease of attention and kindness was noticeable on his part. 
 Every day a present of eatables came to my hut cooked by 
 his head wife — one day a plateful of yams, another day a 
 dish of cassava, and so forth. But I suspected a trick was 
 being played upon me, having recently become acquainted 
 with an African custom, of which I had not previously heard, 
 and which consisted in serving, in dishes given to a guest, 
 powder from the skull of a deceased ancestor, with a view to 
 soften his heart in the matter of parting presents. This 
 custom is called the alumhi. 
 
 I had long known of the practice of preserving in a 
 separate hut the skulls of ancestors, but did not know of this 
 particular use of the relics. In fact, a person might travel 
 in Africa for years without becoming aware of this singular 
 custom, as no negro will divulge to you the whole details of 
 such a matter, even should he be one of your best friends. 
 
 The Otando people are not very dark-skinned. They had 
 various fashions as regards their teeth. Many file the two 
 upper incisors in the shape of a sharp cone, and the four 
 lower ones are also filed to a sharp point. Others file the 
 four upper incisors to a point. A few among them have the 
 two upper incisors pulled out. They tattoo themselves on 
 the chest and stomach, but keep the face smooth. Among 
 the young people very few have their teeth filed ; the custom 
 is dying out. 
 
 The native dogs are trained to be useful for hunting. One 
 day, in my rambles near Mayolo, two of them had a severe 
 fight with a very large white-nosed monkey (cercopitliecus), 
 and came back to me in a dreadful state, especially my dog 
 Andeko, who, being always the first in a fray, generally 
 came off worse than his comrade. In this encounter with the 
 white-nosed monkey, he had the flesh of his fore-leg bitten 
 through to the bone, and his upper lip was cut in two by a 
 terrible gash. Andeko was famous for his courage. He had 
 at different times taken alive young gorillas, young chim- 
 panzees, and young boars. 
 
 These native dogs are keen, active animals ; they are seen 
 in the interior of purer blood than in the Commi countary, 
 where they have become much changed by crossing with 
 
Chap. XXXI. NATIVE DOGS. 401 
 
 European dogs of various breeds, brought by trading vessels. 
 The pure-bred native dog is small, has long straight ears, 
 long muzzle, and long curly tail — very curly when the 
 breed is pure. The hair is short and the colour yellowish, 
 the pure breed being known by the clearness of this colour. 
 'I'hey are alwaj^s lean, and are kept very short of food by 
 their ownei-s ; in fact, they get no food except what they 
 can steal. Although they have a quick ear, I do not think 
 highly of their scent. They are good watch-dogs, but are 
 often destroyed by leopards in the night. Hydrophobia is 
 unknown in this part of the continent. I have only now to 
 coufirm that statement ; it appears, therefore, conclusive that 
 heat is not the cause of this terrible disease. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Start for Apono-lnnd — An Apono village — Fright of the people — King 
 Ncliii-ngain — The village of Moueiidi — The story of the sun and of 
 the moon — Nchiengaiii and Miiyolo drunk with palm wine — Their 
 enthusiasm for going inland — The Aponos a ni'Try people — They love 
 to get tipsy — Leaving Nehieugain's village — Cross a large river — 
 Ishogo and Apono villages — The village of Dilolo — A war cloud — A 
 great meeting — The Apono village of Mokaba — Appearance and 
 dress of the Aponos — The Apouos a warlike people — Iron workers — 
 Their weapons — Aponos accompany me to the Ishogo country — 
 Nchiengain returns to his country — Arrival among the Ishogos — The 
 villages of Igoumbi^ and Yeiigue'. 
 
 We left Mayolo on the 30th of May, in the morning. The 
 good chief accompanied us, and our party consisted of about 
 thirty men, including twenty porters, all heavily laden with 
 my baggage. My own load was, besides a double-barrelled 
 gun and two revolvers, fifty ball-cartridges, thirty bullets, 
 six pounds of shot, and a quantity of powder and caps : 
 altogether about forty pounds weight. 
 
 As we left the village, they all shouted, " The Oguizi is 
 o-oino- ! the Oguizi is going ! we shall never see him more 1 " 
 
 Marching onwards, always in an easterly direction, we 
 
402 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXI. 
 
 arrived, at half-past four, at (he village of the Apono chief 
 Nohiengain, which is calk'd Mouendi. The territory of the 
 Apono tribe lies chiefly to the south-east of this place. 
 
 We halted before entering the village, at the request of 
 Mayolo, to arrange tlie order of going in, for it was necessary 
 to avoid anything that might give alarm to the timid 
 savages, who had never before received a similar visitor. 
 The passage of inhabited places would henceforward be the 
 most difScult part of our journey ; as long as we had nothing 
 but forests, rivers, and mountains to traverse, provided we 
 could get plenty of food, all would go well ; but to contend 
 with- the sujierstitious fears and greedy avarice of the chiefs 
 and villagers was a serious matter. It was settled that 
 Mayolo, who was the friend aud nkaga (born the same day) 
 of Nchiengain, should go first, and that the rest should 
 follow at intervals one by one. We marched towards the 
 entrance of the village in dead silence. 
 
 As we approached, the peop>le who first caught sight of us 
 began to flee. The women cried out as they ran with their 
 babes in their arms, " The Oguizi ! (spirit) the Oguizi ! He 
 has come, and we shall die ! " They wept and shrieked ; I 
 heard their cries with dismay, but did not knovi^ till after- 
 wards that the small-p ix had already swept through this 
 village. 
 
 When we reached the middle of the village, there was not a 
 soul remaining except Nohiengain himself and two men, who 
 stood with fear depicted in their countenances near the 
 (juandja (a kind of house open in front) of the chief. Nchien- 
 gain, however, had given his consent to our coming, and 
 seemed to have inwardly resolved to brave it out. He had 
 fortified himself against evil by besmearing his body with 
 great streaks of the alumbi chalk, and hanging all his fetiches 
 around him. 
 
 The persuasive tongue of Mayolo soon calmed his fears. He 
 gathered courage to look me steadily in the face. I then 
 addressed him in the Ashira language, and recounted the 
 treasures in beads, caps for the head, coats, and cotton prints 
 that I had brought for him ; finally he began to smile and 
 took my proffered hand. Beads vi-ero promised to the women, 
 
CnAr. XSXI AN AFONO CHIEF. 403 
 
 and gradually the people came back to their houses. Towards 
 evening I went round the village, looked into the huts, 
 laughed with the people, and distributed beads. Good 
 humour was restored, and the remark became general that the 
 Oguizi was a good spirit after all. 
 
 Nchiengain is a tall, slender old negro, with a mild and 
 timid expression of features. He is the leading chief of the 
 Apono tribe in these parts ; but his clan is now, I hear, 
 almost extinguished. His village is one of the iiuest and 
 cleanest I have yet seen, the houses being neat, built chiefly 
 of bamboo, or strips of the leaf-stalks of palm-trees, and 
 arranged in symmetrical lines. I have measured the street, 
 and find it to be 447 yards long and 18 broad. The houses 
 are small and quite separate from one another ; the height of 
 the roof is about seven feet ; and each house has its little 
 verandah in front, under which the inhabitants take their 
 meals and sit to smoke and chat. I notice that many of the 
 men have their two middle upper incisor teeth pulled out, 
 and the two next to them filed to a point. Some of the 
 women beautify themselves in a similar way ; they also 
 endeavour to improve their looks by tattooing themselves in 
 long scars on their foreheads, between their eyebrows, and 
 on their cheeks in a line with the middle of the ear. 
 
 Although the chief seems to be of a good disposition, I 
 found him no better inclined to forward my journey than 
 any of the others I had dealings with. Like the Olenda 
 peop)le, he wanted the chief who had brought me to his place 
 to leave me in his hands ; this being the first step necessary 
 to enable the rapacious negroes to get all they could out of 
 me at their leisure. Mayolo was firm in his demand to have 
 me forwarded across the Eembo in two days. Our palavers 
 lasted all this day and the next. I gave him a quantity of 
 goods, but, as was to be expected, he expressed his dissatis- 
 faction, with a view to get more out of me. I left Mayolo 
 with him, and by some means or other he persuaded him to 
 be contented. What could I do with a man who believed 
 that I made all these things myself, by some conjuring 
 process? for it is thus that that Nchiengain argued with 
 Mayolo : " The cloth and beads and guns cost him no trouble 
 
404 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXI. 
 
 to make ; why does he not give me more of these things 
 which do me so much good ? " " Mayolo," he would continue 
 in course of his many palavers with him, " you eat me with 
 jealousy. Why do you want yourself to take the Oguizi to 
 the Ashango country ? why not go back and leave him to me ? 
 I want it to go far and wide that the Oguizi and Nchiengain 
 are big friends." 
 
 June 1st. A number of Apingi men came up the river to-day 
 from their villages, which are situated a few miles lower 
 down the river banks, towards the north or north-west. 
 They fraternised with the Apono, and we had great noise, 
 tam-tamming, drinking, and confusion. 
 
 Sometimes I u.sed to be amused by the ideas of the people 
 about the heavenly bodies. Like all other remarkable natural 
 objects, they are the subjects of whimsical myths among 
 them. According to them, the sun and moon are of the same 
 age, but the sun brings daylight and gladness and the moon 
 brings darkness, witchcraft, and death — for death comes from 
 sleep, and sleep commences in darkness. The sun and moon, 
 they say, once got angry with each other, each one claiming 
 to be the eldest. The moon said : " Who are you, to dare to 
 speak to me ? you are alone, you have no people ; what ! are 
 you to consider yourself equal to me? Look at me," she 
 continued, showing the stars shining around her, " these are 
 my people ; I am not alone in the world, like you." The sun 
 answered, " moon, you bring witchcraft, and it is you 
 who have killed all my people, or I .should have as many 
 attendants as you." According to the negroes, people are 
 more liable to die when the moon first makes her appearance 
 and when she is last visible. They say that she calls the 
 people her insects, and devours them. The moon with them 
 is the emblem of time and of death. 
 
 Some of the inhabitants of a neighbouring Apono village, 
 who had been most hostile to my coming to their country, 
 having since heard that I had brought no evil or sickness 
 with me here, now came to see me. As soon as my friend 
 Nchiengain saw them, he went up to them in great anger, 
 crying out, " Go away, go away ! Now that j'ou have smelt 
 niva (my goods or present), you are no longer afraid, but 
 
Chap. XXXI. SPILLING THE TALM-WINE. 405 
 
 want to come ! " So the men went away without my speaking 
 to them. 
 
 June 2nd. Towards evening both Nchiengain and Miiyolo 
 got drunk with palm wine, and their ardour to go forward 
 with me was sometliing astonishing. They say they are 
 going with me far beyond the Ashango ; they are men ; they 
 will even travel by night, as there will be the moon with us. 
 
 Many of the people are drunk to-night, following the 
 example of the two chiefs. I had always heard from the 
 slaves near the coast that the Apono were a merry race, and 
 I now iind it so with a vengeance. Since my arrival here 
 there is nothing but dancing and singing every night. 
 
 June Srd. We left Moueudi with a great deal of trouble 
 this morning. Nchiengain and Maj'olo wanted to renew their 
 libations of the previous evening, and, in fact, were half- 
 drunk soon after daylight ; but I went to the hut where 
 the symposium was going on, and, kicking over the calabashes 
 of palm-wine, sent the chiefs and their attendants to the 
 right-about. I could not, however, get Nchiengain away, 
 and we started without him. I wondered afterwards at the 
 good-nature of these people, who saw with composure a 
 stranger knocking over so large a quantity of their cherished 
 beverage. They did not resent my act, but only gi-umbled 
 that so much good liquor was spilt instead of going down 
 their throats. 
 
 We reached the banks of the river, distant about three 
 miles from the village. The Ngouyai was here a fine stream, 
 from ten to fifteen feet deep, flowing from the S.S.W. 
 
 It was now the dry season, when the water is about ten 
 feet below the level of the rainy season. I could not but 
 admire the magnificent trees, which towered above the 
 masses of lower trees and bushes growing from the rich soil ; 
 some of them grew on the very brink of the stream, and their 
 trunks were supported by erect roots, looking like maypoles, 
 eight or ten feet high, and projecting in places over the water. 
 
 Nchiengain's flat-bottomed canoe carried my party and 
 baggage across in seven journeys. Nchiengain arrived at 
 the river-side, reeling drunk, just as we were shoving off 
 with the last load, and I told the men to pretend not to hear 
 
40G EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXI. 
 
 his shouts for the return of the canoe to embark him, so he 
 had to come over alone when we had all landed on the other 
 side. 
 
 Ath. We left the banks of the river at a quarter past 
 six a.m. Shortly afterwards we passed through an Apono 
 village, and at half-past eight a.m. came to three Ishogo 
 villages close together. It was no new feature to find a 
 settlement of a tribe living in the middle of a district belong- 
 ing to another tribe. 
 
 The Ishogos of these villages knew that I was to pass 
 through the places. They had heard of the untold wealth I 
 brought with me, and were annoyed when they perceived my 
 intention to pass on without stopping. The villages are 
 built in an open grassy space ; and as soon as the caravan 
 came in sight the excitement was intense. Women, children, 
 and armed men came around, shouting and entreating; some 
 running along the line of march, with goats in tow, offering 
 them as presents if I would stay with them, even if it was 
 only for a night. It is the custom in all these villages to 
 offer a present of food to a stranger if the inhabitants wish 
 him to stay with them ; and the acceptance of the present 
 bj^ the stranger is a token of his intention to remain in the 
 place for a time. They offered also ivory and slaves, and the 
 more I refused the offers, the more pertinacious they became. 
 Their sole wish, of coui se, in asking me to stay, was to get 
 as much as they could of the coveted goods I brought with 
 me. Our Apono companions mourned over the goats that I 
 might have had. 
 
 The direct easterly path from here led to a number of 
 Apono villages ; these we wished to avoid in order to escape 
 a similar annoyance to that which wo had undergone in the 
 morning from the Ishogos, and so struck a little more 
 southerly, or S.S.E. by compass. Our road lay for three 
 hours over undulating prairie land, with occasional woods ; 
 one of the open spaces was a prairie called Matimbie irimba 
 (the praiiio of stones) stretching S.E. and N.W. 
 
 At the S.E. end of the prairie we came to a village called 
 Dilolo. Our rccopition hero was anything but friendly. We 
 found the entrance to the one street of the village barricaded 
 
Chap. XXXI, A FIGHT IMMINENT. 407 
 
 and guarded by all the fighting men, armed with spears, bows 
 and arrows, and sabres. When within earshot, they vented 
 bitter curses against Nchiengain for wanting to bring the 
 Oguizi, who carries with him the plague into their village, 
 and prohibited us from entering if we did not want war. 
 The war drums beat, and the men advanced and retired 
 before us, spear in hand. We marched forward, nevertheless, 
 and the determined fellows then set fire to the grass of the 
 open space leading to the village barricade. Wishing to 
 avoid an encounter, and also the fire which was spreading at 
 a great rate over the prairie, we turned by a path le.iding 
 round the village ; but when we had reached the rear of the 
 place, we found a body of the villagers moving in the same 
 direction to stop our further progress. Most of them appeared 
 half-intoxicated with palm wine, and I now felt that we 
 were going to have a fight. Presently two poisoned arrows 
 were shot at us, but they fell sh(.)rt. Nchiengain then came 
 up and walked between my men and the irritated warriors, 
 begging me not to fire unless some of us were hit. The 
 villagers, seeing that we made no display of force, became 
 bolder, and one of them came right up and with his bow 
 bent threatened to shoot Eapelina. My plucky lad faced the 
 fellow boldly, and, showing him the muzzle of his gun, told 
 him he would be a dead man if he did not instantly' j>ut down 
 his bow. All my Commi boys came up, and ranging them- 
 selves on the flanks of our caravan with their guns pointed 
 at the enemy, protected the train of porters as they filed past. 
 I was glad to see also our Apono companions taking our 
 part ; they got enraged with the villagers, and some of them 
 laid down their loads, and rushed to the front waving their 
 swords. I watched the scene calmly, and surveyed the field 
 where war might at any moment break out. Behind us the 
 country was all in a blaze, for the fire had spread with great 
 rapidity. The Apono porters being so resolutely on our side, 
 I had no fear as to how the conflict wuuld end. It is a point 
 of honour with these primitive Africans that they are bound 
 to defend strangers whom they have undertaken to convey 
 from one tribe to another, though they may rob him. We 
 went on our way, Nchiengain shouting from the rear to the 
 
408 EQUATOniAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXI. 
 
 discomfited warriors that there would be a palaver to settle 
 for this when he came back. 
 
 I was prouder than ever of my boys after this, and profited 
 by the occasion to strengthen them in their determination to 
 go forward. There was no going back after this, I told 
 them ; they all shouted, " We must go forward ; we are going 
 to the white man's country ! " 
 
 We continued our march till half-past four p.m., when we 
 encamped for the night in the middle of a wood, where there 
 was a cool upring of water, close to a cluster of Apono vil- 
 lages. In the evening we heard the cries of the people, the 
 weeping of the women, and the beating of the war drums. 
 The burthen of their lamentations was, " Nchiengain, why 
 have you brought this curse upon us ? We do not want the 
 Oguizi, who brings the plague with him. The Ishogo are 
 all dead, the Ashango have left ; it is of no use your taking 
 the white man to them ; go back, go back ! " We slept with 
 our loaded guns by our side. 
 
 June hill. At daylight this morning I got up and looked out 
 over the broad prairie, and, to my agreeable surprise, 1 saw no 
 signs of war. Shortly al'terwards a deputation of three men 
 came from the village to try to persuade Nchiengain not to 
 pass through, on account of my bringing death wherever I 
 went. But the tnisty and sensible old chief, in a long 
 speech, showed them that it was a foolish alarm about my 
 bringing the eviva, and that the plague came quite indepen- 
 dent of me, for it had passed throixgh his village long before 
 the Oguizi had come near it. The ai'gument seemed to have 
 a good effect; they retired, and shortly afterwards both 
 Nchiengain and Mayolo were sent for to the village; this 
 was followed by a messenger arriving for me. 
 
 When I came into the open space chosen for the meeting, 
 at some distance from the village, I was not a little surprised 
 to see about 200 of the villagers assembled, all gravely seated 
 on the grass, in a group of a semi-circular form. As I 
 advanced towards them, I was amused to see the front row 
 getting uneasy and wriggling off into the rear, followed by 
 the next row, and so on. Nchiengain a-tdressed me, saying 
 tliat he had sent for me to tell ine that the villagers wiehed 
 
Chap. XXXI. MEDICINE DA YS. 409 
 
 me to leave the wood in whioli I was eucamped, and to move 
 to the top of a grassy hill a little further oif. If I did that 
 all the people would come and see me, and bring me food, 
 and on the following day would be willing that I should 
 continue my journey. 
 
 Late in the afternoon, three head men of neighbouring 
 villages came to invite us to their respective villages. One 
 of the elders was from a large place not far distant, called 
 Mokaba, and Mayolo .recommended mo to go to this village 
 in preference to the others, because its representative had 
 offered us the greatest number of goats, namely, three. 
 Nohiengain was too far gone in intoxication, having had a 
 drinking boiit with the chiefs of the village where we now 
 were, to accompany us. After a short march we entered the 
 friendly town of Mokaba, amidst the shouts of the whole 
 population. 
 
 My own men now enjoyed much better health than they 
 did at the commencement of our expedition ; for, strange to 
 say, these negroes cannot bear as much fatigue and hardship 
 as I do, and generally after a long march or a hunt they fell 
 ill. But I could never make them come and tell me as soon 
 as they felt the first symptoms of being unwell, so, at fixed 
 periods^once a fortnight, or once a month, according to the 
 season — they were summoned to my "dispensary" to be 
 dosed all round. I had fixed days for the different medicines : 
 one day was castor-oil day, another was blue-pill or calomel 
 day, a third was the " feast of Epsom salts." They all had 
 to come up in single file, and, one after the other, were 
 ordered to swallow their dose. Now and then one or two 
 of them tried to escape the medicine parade ; and, when I 
 called them up, each had some ready excuse for his non- 
 attendance, but in vain. This was generally on castor-oil 
 day, for they said that they did not mind the other medicines, 
 but that this was " so bad ; " and many were the wry faces 
 that were made before the dose was swallowed by the entire 
 company. However, I found that my plan had very good 
 results, as my men had much better health than they had 
 before I adopted it. 
 
410 BQUATOBIAL AFRICA. ' Chap. XXXII. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXII. 
 
 The Apono country — The village of Mokalia — Large quantity of palm 
 trees — Palm wine a favourite drink — Many men with scars — The 
 Ocuya performance — The Apono people — Fashion — Weapons of the 
 Aponos — From Moliaba to Igoumbic — A large village — Singing at 
 night. 
 
 June 6t]i. Mokaba and most of tlie other villages of tlie Apono 
 tribe are situated in an open tract of undulating country, 
 partly wooded and partly open prairie. The distance of the 
 town from Mayolo is not more than twenty -seven miles in a 
 direct line, and within a short distance of the Ngouyai. 
 
 I liked the Aponos, and got on very well whilst in their 
 country. They showed themselves to be honest, and were 
 faithful in carrying out the engagements they entered into 
 with me, in spite of the numerous palavers we had. I 
 lost none of my property by theft whilst I was amongst 
 them. 
 
 The village of Mokaba is large and well arranged ; it was 
 the prettiest village I have ever seen in Africa. There are 
 upwards of 130 houses or huts, which, as in other West- 
 African villages, are so arranged as to form one main .street. 
 But, in Mokaba, several houses are connected so as to form a 
 square, with a common yard or garden in the middle, in 
 which grow magnificent palm-trees. Behind the houses, too, 
 are very frequently groups of plantain and lime-trees. The 
 village being thus composed of a series of small quadrangles 
 and back-gardens containing trees with beautiful foliage, the 
 whole effect is very charming. In the rear of the houses, 
 amidst the plantain-groves, they keep theii- goats, fowls, and 
 pigs. This was the only village where I saw tame pigs. I 
 was struck witli the regularity of the main street ; but, 
 besides this, there was another narrower street on each side 
 of the village, lying between the backs of the houses and the 
 plantain-groves, and kept very neat and closely-weeded. 
 Each house has in front a verandah, or little open space 
 without wall, occupying half the length of the house ; the 
 other half, in equal portions on each side, forms apartments 
 in which the owners sleep and keep their little property. 
 
. 'f'-' --u^'"- 
 
 fe 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 >'V'-'^^'' 
 
 ' 
 
 " 
 
 MOKAliA. AN AVUKO MLLAGB. 
 
412 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXII. 
 
 When a man marries, lie immediately builds a house for 
 his new wife ; and, as the family increases, other houses are 
 built; the house of each wife being kept separate. The 
 palm-trees in the quadrangles are the property of the chief 
 man of each group of houses ; and, being valuable property, 
 pass on his death to his heir, the next brother or the nephew, 
 as in other tribes. Some of these palm-trees tower up to a 
 height of fifty feet, and have a singular appearance ia the 
 palm-wine season from being hung, beneath the crown, with 
 hollowed gourds receiving the precious liquor. 
 
 The large quantity of palm-trees in and around the village 
 furnish the Aponos of Mokaba with a ready supply of their 
 favourite drink, palm-wine ; they are a merry people, and 
 make a regular practice of getting drunk every day as long 
 as the wine is obtainable. I often saw them climb the trees 
 in early morning, and take deep draughts from the calabashes 
 suspended there. Like most drunken people, they become 
 quarrelsome ; and being a lively and excitable race, many 
 frays occur. Happily, the palm- wine season lasts only a few 
 months in the year : it was the height of the drunken season 
 when I was at Mokaba. I saw very few men who had not 
 scars, or the marks of one or more wounds, received in their 
 merry-making scrimmages. Their holidays are very frequent. 
 Unlimited drinking is the chief amusement, together with 
 (lancing, tam-tamming, and wild uproar, which last all 
 night. 
 
 They are very fond of the ocuya performances. The ocuya 
 is a man supporting a large framework resembling a giant, 
 and whimsically dressed and ornamented, who walks and 
 dances on stilts. In Mokaba, he appears in a white mask 
 with thick open lips, disclosing the rows of teeth minus the 
 middle incisors, according to the Apono fashion. The long 
 garment reaches to the ground, covering the stilts. It 
 struck me as a droll coincidence that his head-dress resembled 
 exactly a lady's bonnet ; it was surmounted by feathers and 
 made of the skin of a monkey. Behind, however, hung the 
 monkey's tail, which I cannot say has its parallel in European 
 fashions. 
 
 The curiosity of the Mokaba people is most troublesome. 
 
Chap. XXXII. HOUSES OF THE APONOS. 413 
 
 The way they come upon me is sometimes quite startling ; 
 they sidle up behind trees, or crawl up amongst the long 
 grass until they are near enough, and then, from behind the 
 tree trunks, or above the herbage, a number of soot-black 
 faces suddenly bob out, staring at me, with eyes and mouth 
 wide open. The least thing 1 do elicits shouts of wonder ; 
 but if I look directly at them they take to their legs and 
 run as if for their lives. 
 
 The Mokaba people took alarm at night in seeing me look 
 at the stars with my instruments ; and the chief, accompanied 
 by his people, came and told me they would build a shed for 
 me at a distance from the houses. 
 
 The Aponos are no doubt a branch of the great Ashira 
 nation, like the Ashira Kamba, the Ashira Ngozai, and the 
 Otando, all of whom, as well as the Aponos, speak the Ashira 
 language. TheAshangos also speak the Ashira " language, 
 although they are divided from the Aponos by the Ishogo, 
 who speak an entirely different language. But the Aponoa 
 are distinguished from all the other branches of the Ashira 
 nation by their sprightliness of character ; and they are clean 
 and well-looking. Their villages are larger, better arranged, 
 and prettier than those of the Otando and Ashira Ngozai. 
 Each house is built separate from its neighbours, and they 
 attend to cleanliness in their domestic arrangements. Their 
 country is an undulating plain, varied with open grassy 
 places covered with a pebbly soil, and rich and extensive 
 jiatches of woodland well adapted for agriculture, in which 
 they make their plantations. I cannot make an estimate of 
 the total population of the tribe ; their villages were numerous 
 along our line of march from Mouendi. 
 
 Both men and women are distinguished by their habit of 
 taking out the two middle upper incisors and filing the two 
 others, as well as the four lower incisors, to a point. The 
 women have for ornament tattooed scars on their forehead ; 
 very often these consist of nine rounded prominences similar 
 in size to peas, and arranged in the form of a lozenge between 
 their eyebrows, and they have similar raised marks on their 
 cheeks and a few irregular marks on the chest and abdomen, 
 varying in pattern in different individuals. They also rub 
 28 
 
414 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXII. 
 
 themselves with red powder derived from the common bar- 
 wood of trade. They dress their hair in many ways. They 
 do not practise tattooing so much as the Apingi, who deco- 
 rate their chests and abdomens with various kinds of raised 
 patterns. The Apingi and the Ishogos speak the same 
 language. 
 
 The Aponos are a warlike people, and are rather looked up 
 to with fear by the Apingi and the Ishogos, whose villages 
 are close to theiis. They are not such skilful workers in 
 iron as tha Fans, or as some other tribes further to the east. 
 The iron-ore which they use is found plentifully in some 
 parts of their prairies : it occurs in lumps of various sizes, 
 and is dug from the soil ; the deeper they dig the larger and 
 purer are the lumps. They melt it in little thick earthen- 
 ware pots, holding about a pint each, and use, of course, 
 charcoal in tempering the metal. Their anvils are large and 
 well made, but the construction of them is apparently beyond 
 their ability, as all the anvils which I saw came from the 
 Abombo and Njavi tribes, who live further towards the east. 
 The Abombos and Njavis manufacture also a superior kind of 
 straight sword four feet long, the handle of which is made of 
 wood and is in the shape of a dice-box, through the middle 
 of which the handle-end of the sword passes. 
 
 The bows of the Aponos are very different from the cross- 
 bows of the Fans, which I have described ; they are not 
 nearly so powerful, but, at the same time, not so clumsy ; 
 they are of very tough wood, and bent nearly in a semi- 
 circle, with the chord measuring about two feet, and the 
 string of Vjegetable fibre. The arrow is rather heavy ; the 
 head is of tempered iron, triangular in shape, and prolonged 
 in a tubular- form for the insertion of the shaft ; the shaft is 
 not secured into the head, so that when the arrow enters 
 into the body of a man or animal, the sharp triangular lance- 
 head, coated with poison, remains in the wound, whilst the 
 shaft drops out. The arrows are kept in cylindrical quivers 
 made of the bark of a tree, and not in bags. . 
 
 Their spears, also, are different from those of the Fans, and 
 are similar to those described by Burton, Grant, Speke, and 
 other travellers, as used by the tribes of Eastern Equatorial 
 
Chap. XXXII. AFONO WEAPONS. 415 
 
 Africa. They are much heavier and clumsier than the spears 
 of the Fans, and cannot, therefore, like them, bo thrown to a 
 great distance. The head is lance-shaiied, without barbs, and 
 a foot in length. In fight they are used for thrusting, at close 
 quarters. Sabres are the most common weapons with these 
 people ; they are curved, and have wooden handles. The 
 metal of which the blades are made, although pretty well 
 tempered, by means of the charcoal used, is full of flaws. 
 Some of the people use round shields made of wicker-work. 
 Each of my Apono porters carried a sabre, besides his bow 
 and quiver of arrows. Tbe possession of a sword is a mark 
 of manhood with these people, and all the young men think 
 it honourable to obtain a sword before they acquire a wife. 
 In fact, the chief things coveted by the young dandies of the 
 tribe are a sword, a grass-web cap of the country, and a 
 handsome derif/ui, or garment of striped grass-cloth. The 
 red worsted caps which I carried, as part of Tiiy stores, im- 
 mediately drove their native caps out of fashion, and, indeed, 
 created a perfect furore. It was a sure way of gaining the 
 good will of an Apono man to present him with one of these 
 caps. 
 
 The Aponos are industrious weavers of grass-cloth, which 
 forms the clothing of both sexes. The cloth is woven in 
 small pieces with a fringe, called hcmgos, and is sometimes 
 beautifully fine ; when several hcmgos are sown together, the 
 garment is called a dengui ; the women wear only two pieces, 
 or bongos, one on each side, secui'ed at the toj) over the hips, 
 and meeting in front at the upper edge. 
 
 It might be supposed, from the frequency with which I 
 met with villages on the march, that the Apono country was 
 thickly inhabited, especially as the villages wore large, a few 
 of them containing about, a thousand inhabitants. But it 
 must be recollected that the pathways, along which we were 
 obliged to march, were the roads leading from one village to 
 another. I travelled, therefore, through the peopled part of 
 the country. Away from these main pathways there were 
 vast tracts of prairie and some wooded land remaining in 
 their original desert condition. 
 
 It is settled that nineteen Apono porters are to accompany 
 
416 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXII. 
 
 me to the Isliogo country with their chief Kombila.* 
 Nchieiigain returns to his own place. Before he left me we 
 assembled all our new men, and he made a speech to Ihem 
 whilst I distributed the pay. He told them how Olenda had 
 delivered me to Mayolo and Mayolo to him, and that now 
 they must take me safe to the Ishogo people, who would pass 
 me over to the Ashango, and so on. They were to see that I 
 had plenty of goats and plantains, and then if their ta.sk was 
 well done they would receive their reward as he and his 
 people had done. 
 
 June \Otli. — We pursued a direction a little north of east. 
 The ground soon began to rise, and we entered on a i-iohly- 
 wooded hilly country, in which were numerous plantations 
 and villages of slaves belonging to the head-men of Mokaba. 
 
 We continued our journey to the south-east, and at half- 
 past three arrived at a large Ishogo village called Igoumbie. 
 We did not intend to stay, and marched straight through ; 
 the people all hiding themselves in their huts, with, the ex- 
 ception of a lew men bolder than the rest, who stood staring 
 at us, without uttering a word, as we marched along. When 
 we had passed through, the village, we stopped near the road 
 or pathway on the other side, about fifty yards beyond. 
 Then Kombila and some of our Apono men went back to the 
 village, and spoke to the people. One of the elders of the 
 place was a great friend of Kombila's, and they all knew the 
 Mokaba people. So Boulingue, Kombila's friend, came back 
 with him to our encampment, and begged me to come and 
 stay in the village, saying that they did not wish us to pass 
 their place without their giving us something to eat. 
 
 I could not ascertain who was the chief of this village, if 
 there was any. Since I have left Mouendi I cannot find out 
 
 * As proper names may be of some ntility in the study of the native 
 languages, 1 subjoin the names of my porters : — 
 
 Head man, Kombila. Second in command, Mbouka. 
 
 Ipandi, Kassn, Boushouboi;, 
 
 Foubou, Mondjego, Djemhd, 
 
 Batali, Mombon, Boulingue, 
 
 Njomba, Budinga, Nchago, 
 
 Mozamba, Miyendo, Noueti, 
 
 Mousoumbi, Mafoumbi, Momelou. 
 
Chap. XXXII. TEE VILLAGE OF IGOUMBIE. 417 
 
 that there are any head-men or chiefs in the villages, but 
 there seemed to be a certain number of elders, who hold 
 authority over their respective villages. Here three elders, 
 beating the kendo, came and presented me, each one, with a 
 goat and several bunches of plantains — prefacing their 
 piesents with three tremendously long speeches. 
 
 At a glance I perceived that I was among quite a different 
 tribe from those I had hitherto met with. The mode of 
 dressing the hair, both with men and women ; the shape of 
 their houses, each with its door ; the men smeared with red 
 powder ; all these points denoted different customs. 
 
 I was very much amused with these Ishogos, especially 
 with the women. Wlien they thought I was not looking at 
 them, they would partially open the door of their hut and 
 peep out at me. As soon as I looked at them, they imme- 
 diately closed the door, as if greatly alarmed. When they 
 had to go from one house to another, and had to pass the hut 
 in which I was located, and at the door of which I was seated, 
 they hurriedly crossed to the other side of the street, putting 
 their hand up to the side of their face so that they might not 
 see me — apparently with a view to avoid or avert the " evil 
 eje." 
 
 June \lth. — Igoumbie is the largest village I have met with 
 yet, and forms one long and tolerably broad street. I counted 
 191 huts; each hut has a wooden door, and is divided into 
 three compartments or chambers. The houses are generally 
 placed close to each other, not wide apart like the houses of 
 the Aponos. There are many of the curious alumbi houses 
 scattered about. A large mbuiti, or idol house, stands about 
 half way down the street, with a monstrous wooden image 
 inside, which the villagers hold in great reverence. The 
 village being so large, the inhabitants seem to have thought 
 it required several palaver-houses, for I noticed four or five. 
 The palaver-house is an open shed, which answers the pur- 
 pose of a public-house, club-room, or town-hall, to these 
 people ; they meet there daily to smoke and gossip, hold 
 public trials or palavers, and receive strangers. What was 
 most remarkable, there was here an attempt at decorative 
 work on the doors of many of the houses. The huts, neatly 
 
418 EQUATORIAL AFHICA. Chap. XXXII. 
 
 built, with walls formed of the bark of trees, Lad their doors 
 painted red, white, and black, in coinplioated and sometimes 
 not inelegant patterns. These doors were very ingeniously 
 made ; they turned upon pivots above and below, which 
 worked in the frame instead of hinges. Each house is of an 
 oblong shape, about twenty-two feet long by ten or twelve 
 feet broad; the door being in the middle of the front, tliree 
 
 ISHOfiO HOUSES <W IGOUMEIE, WITH OBNAMENTED DOGES. 
 
 and a half feet high and two and a half ft-et broad. The 
 walls are four and half feet high and the highest part of the 
 roof is about nine feet. 
 
 I could not sleep last night on account of the noise made 
 by these Ishogos. They sang their mbuiti songs until day- 
 light, marching from one end of the village to the other. 
 When at a distance their singing did not sound unpleasant, 
 but when close by it « a& almost deafening. During the day 
 
Chap. XXXII. DRUNKEN LEADERS. 419 
 
 I made friends with the Ishogos, and gave them sundry small 
 presents. Many of the women came and gave me bunches 
 of plantains, sugar-cane, and ground-nuts, and seemed much 
 pleased when I tasted them. 
 
 June 12t]i. We took leave of Igoumbie a little before 
 8 A.M. The people seemed unwilling to let us go, and the 
 elders begged us to stay another day. 
 
 Some tampering took place with my Apouo porters, and I 
 had great diificuUy in preventing them from throwing down 
 their loads and going back. It was an awkward position to 
 be placed in ; but, by dint of coaxing and promising extra 
 pay if they would accompany Kombila to the place to which 
 he and thej' had agreed to take me, they resumed their loads, 
 and we continued our march. 
 
 We passed two Apono villages near together ; and halted 
 for breakfast by a small stream of water near the second one. 
 We were soon surrounded by villagers bringing fowls and 
 plantains. The noise and confusion were so great that I 
 went away alone for a walk in the thick of the forest, leaving 
 my men to bargain for fowls and eggs. All the villagers 
 wanted to get some of my beads. 
 
 We resumed our march at half-past twelve. Kombila 
 annoyed me much by slinking behind, and getting drunk 
 with another of my men, named Mbouka, an elder of Mokaba, 
 who at the last moment said he would accompany us for a 
 walk. Under one pretext or another they had remained 
 behind ; and as they had told the villagers to follow them 
 " with the drink," when they knew that I was far enough 
 off, they took their libations. They both made their appear- 
 ance after causing a long delay, and Mbouka had a calabash 
 of palm wine in one of the country bags, which I detected, 
 the bag being of a great size. I was resolved to put a stop 
 to this, so forced the man to give up his bag, and poured the 
 wine out on the ground, to the great dismay of Kombila, and 
 to the extreme indignation of Mbouka, who grieved that the 
 earth should receive the wine that would have so rejoiced his 
 stomach. He- protested that I ought to pay him back the 
 beads he had paid for the wine. This palm-wine di inking 
 had been a great annoyance to me. Our porters srpiandered 
 
420 EQUATORIAL AFUIGA. Chap. XXXIII, 
 
 their pay (which consisted chiefly of heads) in buying wine 
 at the villages, and were thus spending all their money before 
 we reached the journey's end. 
 
 The Apono porters threatened again to leave their loads 
 unless I gave them an increase of pay ; but I was determined 
 to resist this imposition, and declared I would shoot down 
 the first man that mutinied. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 From Igoumbi^ to Yengue — Discovery of a deserted village of the dwarfs 
 — Curious houses of the dwarfs — Yengue' — Tlie king makes his ap- 
 pearance — Popularity of my red woollen caps — Presented with goats 
 and fowls — Superstitions in regard to twins — The village of Mokenga 
 — I am said to have moved a huge granite block — A village fetich- 
 tree — Leopards — King Quembila — Panic among the Ishogos — Dismiss 
 my Apouo porters and guides — The Ishogo tribes — Appearance of the 
 people — Women's head-dress — Wealth of an Ishogo man — The Ishogos 
 are celebrated weavers. 
 
 We were now bound for Yengue, and on our way thither, in 
 traversing the wild forest through Avhich runs the highway 
 of the country, we came suddenly upon a cluster of most ex- 
 traordinary diminutive huts, which I should have passed by, 
 thinking them to be some kind of fetich-houses, if I had not 
 been told that we might meet in this district with villages 
 of a tribe of dwarf negroes, who are scattered about the 
 Ishogo and Ashango countries and other parts further east. 
 
 I had heard of these people in the Apingi country, under 
 the name of Ashoungas ; they are called here, however, 
 Obongos. From the loose and exaggerated descriptions I 
 had heard, I had given no more credence to the report of the 
 existence of these dwarf tribes than to that of men with 
 tails, who had stools with a hole in them for tlieir tails to 
 be put through, or to the stories of the Sapadi, or cloven- 
 footed men. The sight of these extraordinary dwellings 
 filled me with curiosity, for it was really a village of this 
 curious people. I rushed forward, hoping to find some at 
 least of their tenants inside, but they had fled on our ap- 
 proach into the neighbouring jungle. The huts were of 
 
Chap. XXXIII. ARRIVAL AT YENGUE. 421 
 
 a low oval shape, like a gipsy tent ; the highest part — that 
 nearest the entraBce — was about four feet f j om the ground ; 
 the greatest breadth was about four feet also. On each side 
 were three or four sticks for the man. and woman to sleep 
 up.on. The huts were made of flexible branches of trees, 
 arched over and fixed into the ground at each end, the 
 longest branches being in the middle, and the others suoe-es- 
 sively shorter, the whole being covered with large leaves. 
 When I entered the huts, I found in each the remains of a 
 fire in the middle of the floor. We scoured the neighbour- 
 hood for some distance, but could find no traces of them. (A 
 fuller account of these strange creatures will be found in a 
 subsequent chapter.) 
 
 Finally, we came to Yengue, an Ishogo village, almost as 
 large as Igoumbie, situated on the banks of a river called 
 Ogoulou, one of the afiluents of the Ngouyai. 
 
 Before entering the village, we stopped until all the porters 
 were collected together. Then Kombila and I took the lead, 
 followed by my Commi men. We marched through the 
 street of the village — the villagers looking at us, open- 
 mouthed — until we reached the large ouanja, which was 
 almost at the farthest extremity of the village; Kombila all 
 the time exclaiming to the alarmed villagers, " Do not be 
 afraid ; we have come to see 30U as friends ! " 
 
 Kombila then went and spoke to some of the elders, who 
 came to me, and presented fowls and plantains. 
 
 As usual, the king was not at Yengue. But one of the 
 elders took great care of me ; so after a while I called him 
 into my house, and made Kombila tell him that I had not 
 come to do them harm, but good. Then I put on his head a 
 bright shining red cap, and round his neck a string of very 
 showy beads. As he came out of my hut, the shouts of the 
 people were deafening. I then distributed a few beads 
 amono- the women. My Aponos did the same, and to-night 
 the ice is partly broken, and the people are very friendly 
 with me. Komlaila having told the women that I was very 
 fond of sugar-cane and ground-nuts, they brought me some, 
 layino- them at my feet. In return I gave them bestds, and 
 chatted with as many as I could get to talk to me. 
 
422 EQVATOHIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXSIII. 
 
 June mil. The man whom I suppose to be the head chief 
 of Yengue airived in town this afternoon. It appears that 
 he had fled through fear at my approach, and had gained 
 confidence only on hearing that I was not such a dreadful 
 being as he had imagined. The news of the red cap I had 
 given to the elder had reached his ears ; for the first thing 
 he asked me was whether I would give him one also. Last 
 night I heard a man walking in the streets of the village and 
 saying, in a tone of voice like that of a town crier, " We 
 have the Oguizi amongst us. Beware ! There is no mondah 
 to prevent us from seeing him during the day, but let no one 
 try to see him in his house at night, fur whoever does so is 
 sure to die." 
 
 After the arrival of the chief, things looked quite promising. 
 A formal reception palaver took place in the open street, the 
 Apono guides seated in a row on one side, and the Ishogos on 
 the other. Kombila stated at great length, as usual, the 
 objects of my journey, and the king answered in a speech of 
 greater length still. The chief gave to Kombila, as presents 
 for me, two goats, ten fowls, nine bunches of plantains, and 
 a native anvil. The ceremony finished in a kind of war- 
 dance, in which the Aponos took part. 
 
 The singing and dancing during this -uproarious night 
 were partly connected with a curious ceremony of this people, 
 namely, the celebration of the mpaza, or the release from the 
 long deprivation of liberty which a woman suffers who has 
 the misfortune to bring forth twins. 
 
 The custom altogether is a very strange one, but it is by 
 no means peculiar to the Ishogos, although tliis is the first 
 time I witnessed the doings. The negroes of this part of 
 Africa have a strange notion or superstition that when twins 
 (mpaza) are born, one of them must die early ; so, in order, 
 apparently, to avoid such a calamity, the mother is confined 
 to her hut, or rather restricted in her intercourse with her 
 neighbours, until both the children have grown up, when 
 the danger is supposed to have passed. She is allowed 
 during this time to go to the forest, but is not permitted to 
 speak to any one not belonging to her family. During the 
 long confinement no one but the father and mother are 
 
Chaf. XXXIII. HOW TWINS ARE REGARDED. 423 
 
 allowed to enter the hut. and the woman must remain chaste. 
 If a stranger goes in by any accident or mistake, he is seized 
 and sold into slavery. The twins themselves are excluded 
 from the society of other children, and the cooking utensils, 
 water vessels, etc., of the family are tabooed to everybody else. 
 
 The house where the twins were born is always marked 
 in some way to distinguish it from the others, in order to 
 prevent mistakes. Here in Yengue it had two long poles on 
 each side of the door, at the top of which was a piece of 
 cloth, and at the foot of the door were a number of pegs 
 stuck in the ground, and painted white. The twins were 
 now six years old, and the poor woman was released from 
 her six years' imprisonment on the day of my arrival. 
 During the day two women were stationed at the door of 
 the house with their faces and legs painted white — one was 
 the doctor, the other the mother. The festivities com- 
 menced by their marching do^vn the street, one beating a 
 drum with a slow measured beat, and the other singing. 
 The dancing, singing, and drinking of all the villagers then 
 set in for the night. After the ceremony the twins were 
 allowed to go about like other children. In consequence of 
 all this trouble and restriction of liberty, the bringing forth 
 of twins is considered, and no wonder, by the women as a 
 great calami t}'. Nothing irritates or aunoj's an expectant 
 mother in these countiies so much as to point to her and tell 
 her that she is sure to have twins. 
 
 The river Ogoulou, on the banks of which Yengue is 
 situated, is a fine stream forty or fifty yards broad, and of 
 great depth in the rainy season. It is now about ten feet 
 deep, and I perceived that it was fifteen feet lower than the 
 highest water-mark. The banks of the river show signs of 
 a very considerable population ; for about a mile on each 
 side of the valley is full of plantations both new and old ; , 
 the most extensive plantations of ground-nuts I ever saw in 
 Africa are found here — they extend along the slopes of the 
 banks of the river for miles. 
 
 The Yengue people were afraid I should take their canoes 
 by force to cross the Ogoulou, and when I was about to start 
 had hidden them in the jungle. It required a long parley 
 
424 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXIII. 
 
 to bring them to reason. At length three ferry-boats were 
 brought, one old and rotten. The owner of this last boat was 
 an old man, who knew how to drive a very hard bargain — he 
 required four measures of powder for the loan of the boats, 
 and when I had given him four asked five, when I had 
 given him five he raised his demands to six, and so on. It 
 finished at last in the usual way by my indignantly refusing 
 his demands : he then came round to more moderate terms, — 
 the move readily because he saw that the other two boat- 
 owners were ready to take us at my price — and we embarked, 
 all Yengue crowding down to the water-side to see us off, the 
 chief himself leading me to the boat. 
 
 Before we had emerged from the river valley we passed 
 through several Ishogo villages ; the country then began to 
 rise, and we marched over a hilly district, all covered, as 
 usual, with impenetrable jungle. The forest paths were 
 narrow, and the most varied and strange forms of vegetation 
 rose on either side. We were delayed some time on the way. 
 At two p.m. we reached an elevated plateau, and a little 
 before three arrived at the Ishogo village of Mokenga, about 
 six miles to the eastward of Yengue. 
 
 The village was surrounded by a dense grove of plantain- 
 trees, mnny of which had to be supported by pules, on 
 account of the weight of the enormous bunches of plantains 
 they bore. Little groves of lime-trees were scattered every- 
 where, and the limes, like so much golden fruit, looked 
 beautiful amidst the dark foliage that sun-ounded them. 
 Tall, lowering palm-trees were scattered here and there. 
 Above and behind the village was the dark green forest. 
 The street was the broadest I ever saw in Africa ; one part 
 of it was about 100 yards broad, and not a blade of grass 
 could be seen in it. The Sycobii were building their nests 
 everywhere, and made a deafening noise, for there were 
 inousands and thousands of these little sociable birds. 
 
 Mokenga, being on the skirts of the interior mountain 
 ranges, its neighbourhood is very varied and picturesque. 
 The spring from which the villagers draw their water is 
 situated in a most charming spot. A rill of water, clear and 
 cold, leaps from the lower part of a precipitous hill, with a 
 
Chap. XXXIII. IHE FETICH TREE. 425 
 
 fall of about nine feet, into crystal basin, whence a rivulet 
 brawls down towards the lower land through luxuriant wood- 
 lands. 
 
 Not far from Mokenga there was a remarkable and very 
 large boulder of granite perched by itself at the top of a hill. 
 It must have bren transported there by some external force, 
 but what this was I cannot undertake to say. I thought it 
 possible that it might have been a true boulder transported 
 by a glacier, like those so abundant in northern latitudes. 
 Although I visited it and examined it closelj^, I found no 
 traces of grooves upon it. On nny way from Mokaba to 
 Yengue, I saw no boulders of quartz or granite. 
 
 My visits to this enormous block of granite were so 
 numerous that they attracted the notice of the natives, and I 
 was not a little surprised, one fine morning, to find the 
 village in a state of great excitement about the rumour that 
 the boulder was not in the same place as it had alwa3's been, 
 and that the Oguizi had moved it. 
 
 In almost every Ishogo and Ashango village which I 
 visited there was a large tree standing about the middle of 
 the main street, and near the mbuiti or idol -house of the 
 village. The tree is a kind of Ficus, with large, thick, and 
 glossy leaves. It is planted as a sapling when the village is 
 first built, and is considered to bring good luck to the in- 
 habitants as a talisman : if the sapling lives, the villagers 
 consider the omen a good one ; but if it dies they all abandon 
 the place and found a new village elsewhere. This tree 
 grows rapidly, and soon forms a conspicuous object, with its 
 broad crown yielding a pleasant shade in the middle of the 
 street. Fetiches, similar to those I have described in the 
 account of Eabolo's village on the Fernand Vaz, are buried 
 at the foot of the tree. The tree, of course, is held sacred. 
 An additional charm is lent to these village trees by the 
 great number of little social birds (Sycohius, three species} 
 which resort to them to buill their nests amongst the foliage. 
 These charming little birds love the society of man as well 
 as that of their own species. They associate in these trees 
 sometimes in incredible quantities, and the noise they make 
 with their chirping, chatting, and fuss in building their nests 
 
426 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXIlI. 
 
 and feeding their young is often greater even than that made 
 by the negroes of the village. 
 
 The place appeared deserted when we entered, all the 
 doors were closed, and we took possession, undisturbed, of a 
 large unoccupied shed. A few men soon afterwards were 
 seen peeping at us from afar with frightened looks. Kombila 
 shouted to them, " How is it that when strangers come to 
 your village you do not. hasten to Kalute them?" They recog- 
 nised some of the Aponos, and shouted back, " You are right, 
 you are right ! " Then they came to us and gave us the 
 usual salutation of the Ishogos, which is done by clapping 
 the hands together and stretching them out, alternately, 
 several times. We returned the compliment in the same 
 form, and then ensued much tedious speechifying on the 
 part of Kombila, who related all that had happened to us 
 since we commenced our expedition. 
 
 The " M'bolo " salutation, common to the Mpongwes of the 
 Gaboon and all the tribes of the Ogobai, is unknown in this 
 interior country. 
 
 June nth. Last night as some of my men were fixing 
 their mosquito nets outside the huts, they were told by the 
 Mokenga people that they had better sleep inside and secure 
 well the doors, as leopards were roaming about the village, 
 and had lately killed many of their dogs and goats. Tliey 
 added that in a neighbouring village a leopard had killed 
 several people. So careful were they of my safety, that a 
 body-guard of three of my men came to protect me whilst I 
 was out taking meridian altitudes. One of them fell asleep 
 before my work was half done, and made the rest of us laugh 
 by snoring most boisterously. This sort of thing generally 
 happened when any of the negroes pretended to keep watch 
 whilst I wjs out in the night taking observations. I was 
 once startled at midnight by hearing a formidable snore close 
 to where I stood. Looking on the ground I saw my man 
 Igalo fast asleep, his gun by his side. Kicking him gently, 
 I asked him why he was not in his hut. He replied, " Do 
 you think I conid leave you here alone at night amongst 
 people who use poisoned arrows? No; I keep watch." 
 
 June 18th,. I^he king Qnembila made his appearance to-day, 
 
Chap. XXXIII. PANIC AMONG THE I8R0G0S. 427 
 
 thinking that the bad wind or plague I had brought with 
 me had now had time to blow away. He was clad in 
 grass-cloth, and wore a covering on his head in shape some- 
 what resembling a turban. On his arrival a grand palaver 
 was held ; the Ishogo people ranging themselves on one 
 side, and my Apouo attendants and Commi body-guard on 
 the other. 
 
 June I'dth. A panic seized the Ishogos at night. The 
 news somehow spread through the village (no one could tell 
 who brought it) that in all the villages 1 had gone through 
 the people were dying fast, especially those to whom I had 
 given things. The fear was so great that many of the 
 women took the beads I had given them and threw them 
 away in the woods. Happily, Quembila took my part. I 
 assembled the villagers together, and addressed him in the 
 usual way by parable. " When you marry a woman," I 
 said, " she loves you, she brings you plenty of food, she 
 presents you with the fish she catches in the forest stream ; 
 are you then to flog her ? (Cries of ' No, no ! ') But it is 
 this which happens when I come to your village. You give 
 me food, you give me a house to live in, your women are 
 kind to me — how, then, can I bring evil on you ? " They all 
 shouted : " You are right. The Ishogos are jealous of us ; they 
 spread bad news to prevent us getting some of your good 
 things." Many of the young men came forward and offered 
 themselves as porters to take me to the Ashango country ; 
 while the chief and the elders came and presented me with a 
 goat as a peace-offering. 
 
 It being thus agreed that the Ishogos should take me to 
 the Ashango country, I dismissed my Apono party. 
 
 These people do not seem to sleep at night, for they sing 
 and dance and beat their tam-tams until morning. They 
 seem to be afraid of darkness, believing that night is the 
 time when the spells of witchcraft are the most potent. 
 
 The Ishogos are a fine tribe of negroes ; they are strongly 
 and well built, with well-developed limbs and broad shoulders. 
 I consider them superior to the Ashiras in physique, and I 
 remarked that they generally had finer heads, broader in the 
 part where phrenologists place the organs of ideality. With 
 
428 
 
 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. 
 
 Chap. XXXIIl 
 
 some of them their general appearance reminded me of the 
 Tans. The women have good figures ; they tattoo them- 
 selves in various parts of the body — on tVie shoulders, arms, 
 breast, back, and abdomen — and some of them have raised 
 pea-like marks, similar to those of the Apono women, between 
 the ejebrows and on the cheeks. Both men and women 
 adopt the custom of pulling out the two middle incisors cf 
 
 ISHOQO FASHIONS. OBLIQUE CinGNON. 
 
 the upper jaw, but this mode of adding to their personal 
 attraction is not so general as among the Aponos ; many file 
 their upper incisors and two or three of the lower ones to a 
 point. 
 
 The men and women ornament themselves with red 
 powder, made by rubbing two pieces of bar-wood together ; 
 but their most remarkable fashions relate to the dressing of 
 
Chap. XXXIII. 
 
 FEMALE HEAD-DRESS. 
 
 429 
 
 the hair. Three different ways of hair-dressing are most 
 prevalent among the Ishogo belles. In order to give shape 
 to the chignon, they make a framework, generally out of old 
 pieces of grass-cloth, and fix the hair round it. 
 
 One tower, instead of being perpendicular to the crown, is 
 inclined obliquely from the back of the head, and the head is 
 clean shaven almost to the middle. The neck is also shorn 
 closely up to the ears. 
 
 The whole structure must require years of careful training 
 before it reaches the perfection attained by the leaders of 
 
 ISHOGO FASHIONS. — HORIZONTAL CHIGNON. 
 
 Ishogo fashion. A really good chignon is not atlained until 
 the owner is about twenty or twenty-five yenrs of age. It 
 is the chief object of ambition with the young Ishogo women 
 to possess a good well-trained and woll-greased tower of hair 
 of the kind described. Some women are far better dressers 
 of hair than others, and are much sought for— the fixing and 
 cleaning of the hair requiring a long day's work. 
 
 Once fixed, these chignons remain for a couple of months 
 without requiring to be re-arranged, and the mass of insect 
 life that accumulates in them during that period is truly 
 29 
 
EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXX III. 
 
 430 
 
 astouisliing. However, the women make use of tlieir large 
 iron or ivory hairpins in the place of combs. They wear no 
 
 ISHOGO FASHIONS. — VEKTIOAL OHISNON. 
 
 ornaments in the ears, and I saw none who had their ears 
 pierced; they are very different from the Apingi in this 
 
Chap. XXXIU. 
 
 MALE nE AD- DRESS. 
 
 431 
 
 respect. Like tlie women of other tribes, they are not 
 allowed to wear more thun two dcnguis, or pieces of grass- 
 cloth. This stinted clothing has a Indicious efifect in the fat 
 dames, as the pieces do not then meet well in the middle. 
 The men also have fancy ways of trimming their hair. 
 
 ISHOGO FASHIONS. — MALE HEAD-DltEfS. 
 
 Tlie most fashionable style is to shave tlie whole of the head 
 except a circular patch on the crown, and to form this into 
 three finely-plaited divisions, each terminating in a point and 
 hanging down. At the end of each of these they fix a large 
 bead or a piece of iron or brass wire, so Ihat the effect is very 
 
432 EQUATOHIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXIIl. 
 
 singular. The I«hogo peoiile sliave their eyebruas and pull 
 out their eyelashes. 
 
 The native razdr, with which both men and women shave 
 themselves, is a kind of curved and pointed knife made of 
 iron, well worked and tempered with charcoal, the cutting 
 edge being the convex side. It is four or five inches long 
 and has a wooden handle. Slabs of slaty stone are used as 
 whetstones. 
 
 The wealth of an Ishogo man, contained in liis hut, consists 
 of numerous baskets and dishes or large plates made of 
 wicker-work, and a large stock of calabashes to contain 
 water, palm oil, and palm wine, all which are suspended from 
 the roof. The baskets and wicker-work plates are made 
 either of reeds or of the rind of a kind of wild rotang, divided 
 into thin strips. The calabashes are hardened by long 
 exposure to smoke, in order to make them more durable. A 
 highly-valued article is the cake of tobacco, carefully en- 
 veloped in leaves and suspended, like the rest of the property, 
 from the roof. Numerous cotton-bags and cooking vessels 
 are hung about, or stored away, and on the walls are the 
 bundles of the cuticle of palmdeaves, of which their bongos 
 are woven. 
 
 The Ishogos are a peaceful tribe, and more industrious 
 than tribes who live nearer the sea-shore. Very few of them 
 bear scars or signs of hostile encounters. Offensive weapons 
 are not common ; at least, they are not carried about on 
 ordinary occasions. I saw very few spears and bows and 
 arrows carried in that way, but sabres arc more general, and 
 they carry these along with them in their friendly visits 
 fiom one village to another. Their villages are surrounded 
 with palm-trees, and they are not sparing of the favourite 
 intoxicating beverage obtained from them ; it must be said 
 to their discredit that they are far more given than the 
 Aponos to sell their kindred into slavery. The Ishogos speak 
 the same language as the Apingi, which, as I have already 
 remarked, is quite distinct from the Ashira idiom. 
 
 The people are noted throughout the neighbouring tribes 
 for the superior quality and fineness of their bongos. They 
 are industrious and skilful weavers. In walking down tho 
 
Chap. XXXIII. 
 
 ISBOGO WEAVERS. 
 
 43» 
 
 main street of Mokenga a number of ouandjas, or houses 
 without walls, are seen, each containing fonr or five looms. 
 
 ISHOGO LOOM AND SHUTTLE. 
 
 with the weavers seated before them weaving the cloth. 
 The weavers, as you pass b3% are sure to be seen smoking 
 
4?,l EQUATOEIAL AFRICA. Cbap. SXXIV. 
 
 iheir pipes and chatting to one another whilst going on with 
 (heir work. The weavers are all men, and it is men also 
 who stitch the bongos together to make dunguis or robes of 
 them. The bongos are very often striped, and sometimes 
 made even in check patterns ; this is done by their dyeing 
 some of the threads of the warp, or of both warp and woof, 
 with various simple colours ; the dyes are all made of decoc- 
 tions of different kinds of wood, excep)t for black, when a 
 kind of iron ore is used. The bongos are employed as 
 money in this part of Africa. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 I leave Mokonga — Engage Isbogo poitera — The home of rain — The story 
 of the lainy and dry seasons — Strike among the lahogos for more pay 
 — Drastic measures thi'oatcned — Among Asliango villages — Our en- 
 trance into Niembouai — Why chiefs do not show themselves at first 
 — The Njavi, Abombo, and Ashangui tribes — Hear of a large river — ■ 
 A village idol — The mbuti men, or doctors. 
 
 June 21st. I engaged eighteen Ishogo porters, paying them, 
 as customary, their wages beforehand, and promising them 
 further pay if they performed their engagements to my satis- 
 faction. I also gave a present to each of the elders who had 
 given me goats, fowls, or plantains. King Quembila is too 
 old and feeble to accompany me, so I am to have as guide 
 one of the leading men, nami d Mokouuga.*" 
 
 Soon after leaving Mokenga the country became more and 
 more mountainous as we t;ravelled onward ; but the path led 
 through thick foiests, and we conld nut obtain extensive 
 views except in places where trees had been felled for 
 plantations. 
 
 Our road led us over M(5unt Migoma, and from it I had a 
 
 * The following are the names of my Ishogo party : — 
 Head man, Biokonnga. 
 
 Mokanbi, Nchien*i-ani-orere, Maboungo, 
 
 Mokanbiyengo, Moniljo, Moquia 
 
 Nchiengani, Doutai, Mandolo, 
 
 Maduta, Morgaiigue, Medjambi, 
 
 Makinia, Matomba, Ncliando. 
 
 Madibako, Mandja, 
 
Chap. XXXIV. WEATHER LORE. 435 
 
 magnificent view of the country to tlie south and south-east. 
 Ranges of hills, all wooded to the summit, stretched away as 
 far as the eye could reach. By compass, I found the ran.ges 
 to tend N.W. by W. and S.E. by E. 
 
 The Ashaiigo mountains seem to be, if I may use the negro 
 expression, the home of the rain. I doubt very much 
 whether in any other country in the world it rains more than 
 in the mountainous regions of the interior. On the western 
 coast, near the equator, there are only two seasons, the rainy 
 ar.d the dry. 
 
 The rain begins in September and ends in May. 
 
 As I advanced into the interior the prospect became 
 apparent of a continuous rainy season, for the books of Burton, 
 Speke, and Grant sho wed me that I had probably nothing 
 other to expect. 
 
 I was once much amused by the story one of the men related 
 about the dry and wet seasons. The remarkable dryness of 
 the present season had been talked over a good deal, and it 
 was this conversation that led to the story. As usual with 
 the African, the two seasons were personified, Nchango being 
 the name of the wet, and Enomo that of the dry season. 
 One day, the story went, Nohanga and Enomo had a great 
 dispute as to which was the older, and they came at last to 
 lay a wager on the question, which was to be decided in an 
 assembly of the people of the air or sky. Nchango said, 
 " When I come to a place rain comes." Enomo retorted, 
 " When I make my appearance the rain goes." The people 
 of the air all listened, and, when the two disputants had 
 ceased, they exclaimed, " Verily, verily, we cannot tell which 
 is the eldest, you must both be of the same age." 
 
 June 23rd. We forded the Odiganga — which was by no 
 means an easy task, owing to the strength of the current — 
 and reached the village of Magonga. 
 
 At this Ashango village my Ishogo porters found many 
 friends and fathers-in-law ; and, although we had marched 
 only five miles to-day, they pleaded fatigue in order to have 
 an idle day with them. Mokounga made all sorts of excuses 
 to put a stop to the march. The villagers, to propitiate me, 
 brought me as a present a goat and some plantains. 
 
436 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXIV. 
 
 After mucli ado, we succeeded in leaving the village. 
 
 After hreakfast the porters came to me in a body, and 
 mildly asked me to give them each a few beads to enable 
 them to purchase ground-nuts in the Ashango villages. I 
 opened n\j bags and distributed a few beads amongst them ; 
 but I was not a little surprised immediately afterwards to 
 find that a mutiny had been resolved upon. They began to 
 complain that I had been more liberal to the Aponos than to 
 them — that I had given them a great many things, for they 
 saw them ; and the chief spokesman, the same man who had 
 been the chief cause of our troubles at the last village, had 
 the impudence to say to his comrades, " If ho will not give us 
 more beads, let us leave hirn." The whole body then laid 
 down their loads, and said tliey would return to their homes. 
 This was a critical moment ; I felt that an energetic step was 
 necessary to put an end to such insubordination. I gave the 
 order to my Commi men to arm, and in a few moments, the 
 resolute fellows stepped forward and levelled their guns at 
 the heads of tlie offenders. I told them to go now, and they 
 would see how many would reach the other side of the 
 brook alive. The movement had its due effect — they all held 
 out their hands and begged to be forgiven. These little 
 mutinies I fmiid were all arranged beforehand; they are 
 attempts at extortion, and the rascals in planning them 
 agree not to proceed to extremities. 
 
 In the course of time we arrived at a large Ashango village, 
 called Ojego or Moyogo, through which we passed without 
 stopping ; the inhabitants, who seemed to be more astonished 
 at my lace-boots than at anything else, cried out, " Look ! 
 he has feet like an elephant ! " 
 
 VVe reached another Ashango village, of which I was 
 unwilling to accept the hospitality owing to the noise and 
 annoyance caused by the villagers ; in fact, I felt that my 
 head would not stand it, and so fixed my camp at a short 
 distance from it; erecting as usual slight sheds of poles 
 thatched with leaves. 
 
 The altitude was 1480 feet above the sea-level. The 
 thermometer at six a.m. marked 72° Fahr., and at noon only 
 73". In the early morning a thick mist lay over the magui- 
 
Chap. XXXIV. TEE NJAVI PEOPLE. 467 
 
 ficent woodlands, and half hid the village and surrounding 
 palm-trees from our view. 
 
 It is very curious that one side of the street of this village 
 is peopled by the Ashango, and the other side by the Njavi 
 tribe. This was the only opportunity I had of seeing people 
 of the Njavi tribe. It apj)eared that they had been driven 
 westward to this place by the enmity of a powerful tribe, 
 the Ashangui — whose country lies near theirs on the east ; 
 for the territory occupied by the Njavi lies between Ashango- 
 land and the country of the Asbangui. These Njavi were 
 the shyest and most timid negroes I had met with. They 
 would never allow me to enter their houses. 
 
 The streets of all the Ashango villages I have yet seen are 
 less broad than those of the Ishogo villages. As to the in- 
 habitants, my first impressions were unfavourable. They 
 brought us no food either for sale or presents. My Ishogo 
 men began to show signs of discontent, this time not against 
 me but against the villagers ; they said, " If there is nothing 
 to eat, let us be off. We do not stop at villages where goats 
 are not given to the Oguizi ! " I fed my porters well, for 
 many were induced to come from hearing the stories told by 
 the Aponos of the great number of goats they had eaten 
 while with me. It is a great task that I have undertaken. 
 The ordinary difficulties of the way, the toilsome marches, 
 the night watches, the crossing of rivers, the great heat, are 
 as nothing compared with the obstacles and annoyances 
 which these capricious villagers throw in our way. I begin 
 to dread the sight of an inhabited place. Either the panic- 
 stricken people fly from me, or remain to bore me by their 
 insatiable curiosity, fickleness, greediness, and intolerable 
 din. Nevertheless I am obliged to do all I can think of to 
 conciliate them, for I cannot do without them. 
 
 June 2&lh. At length we were again en route. For several 
 miles we continued to ascend; and whenever we could obtain 
 a view through breaks in the forest we saw higher ground 
 towards the east and south-east. Huge rooks of ferruginous 
 sandstone bordered the line of our route. Our entry into 
 Nierabouai was a pleasant affair compared with our reception 
 at most of the other villages. This was chiefly owing to one 
 
438 EQUATOTtJAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXIV. 
 
 of the elders of Niembouai having been at Mokenga while I 
 was there; and who, having returned before us, had prepared 
 the inhabitants. The best honse in the village had been 
 prepared for mo. It belonged to the elder who had met us 
 ut Mokenga, and who now claimed mo as his guest, and, 
 according to the custom of the country, no one disputed his 
 claim. 
 
 Jane 27th. The king of Niembouai, like most of the other 
 moiiarchs of these regions, did not show himself on my 
 arrival — he was absent until about noon to-day. I have 
 now been told that the reason why the chiefs keep away 
 from the villages until I have been in them some time is, 
 that they have a notion that I bring with me a whirlwind 
 which may do them some great harm ; so they wait until it 
 has had time to blow away from the village before they 
 make their appearance. 
 
 Presents and food for sale came in early, and we were well 
 supplied. 
 
 June 28tJi. The ground is soaked after so many hours of 
 steady rain, and this is in the middle of the dry season on 
 the coast. There is evidently no sharp distinction between 
 the seasons in these liigh inland regions. 
 
 I was told to-day, and it was repeated to me in every place 
 afterwards, that there is a tribe called Ashangui, very nu- 
 merous, and clover workers in iron, who live a few days' 
 march further on towards the east, on the banks of a large 
 river. This river must either be the Congo or some unknown 
 stream flowing towards the great river. It is remarkable 
 that the people in most of the Ashango villages were very 
 anxious to get gunpowder from me ; the i^ortors Avanted to 
 be paid partly in powder, and many of the villagers were 
 jirovided with a little measure made of a hollowed gourd 
 exjiressly for the purpose of measuring the powder that they 
 received from me in payment of food and so forth. I won- 
 dered at first why they were so anxious to obtain gunpowder, - 
 as tlioy had no guns. They replied that a trilje called 
 Ashangui, living beyond the Kjavi and Abombo, bought it 
 and gave thom iron for it; that all the iron they had came 
 from tlicre ; that there was a good deal of iron " in the land ; " 
 
Chap. XXXIV. 4 PALAVER AT NIEMBOVAI. 439 
 
 that all the anvils came from there, and that their swords, 
 spears, and arrow-heads — in fact, all their edged implements 
 were made of iron bought from that country. 
 
 We must cionclude, from their buying the powder, that the 
 Ashangni are in possession of guns, which they obtain from 
 traders on the Congo. From Nienibouai eastward I found 
 beads were not uncommon, and these must have been obtained 
 by way of the Congo and through the Ashangui ; in fact, all 
 the natives told me they came up the large river. 
 
 June 2'itli. The sky in this elevated region is almost con- 
 fctautly clouded or hazy. All day yesterday it was either 
 clouded or overspread with a thick haze; the sun was dimly 
 seen only for a few minutes about four o'clock, and at night 
 the moon did not remain visible long enough to enable me 
 to take lunar observations. 
 
 A grand palaver was held to-day. The elders of Niembouai 
 were all mustersd, seated in a half-circle on the ground, and 
 smoking their long pipes — which are about three feet in 
 length — with imperturbable gravity. The great number of 
 old people seen here was quite remarkable, and the fact 
 speaks well for the healthiness of the climate or the absence 
 of wars and deaths on account of witchcraft. The people 
 here, and also among the Ishogos, seemed to have more 
 respect for old men than in other tribes. It required a long 
 explanation by Maduta and Mokounga to convince the wise 
 men that I had not come to their country to buy slaves and 
 ivory, but simply to travel from one tribe to another. Maduta 
 is related to some of the villagers by marriage, and this 
 favoured our arrangements. He finished a long rigmarole, 
 which took him about an hour to deliver, by saying that the 
 Ishogos had now fulfilled I heir duty in bringing me safely 
 to Ashango-land, and that the duty, or, as their language 
 expressed it, the "shame" (or point of honour) remained 
 with the Niembouai peoi^le to carry mo on a stage further. 
 
 The Ashangos unanimously shouted " We have shame, we 
 will pass the Oguizi on." 
 
 This evening I went to see the village idol, or mbuiti, and 
 to witness a great ceremony in the mbuiti-house. As with 
 the Aviia and other tribes, the idol was a monstrous and 
 
440 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXIV. 
 
 indecent representation of a female figure in wood ; I had 
 remarked that the further I travelled towards the interior, 
 the coarser these wooden idols were, and the more roughly 
 they were sculptured. This idol was kept at the end of a long, 
 narrow, and low hut, forty or fifty feet long and ten feet 
 broad, and was painted in red, white, and black colours. 
 When I entered the hut, it was full of Ashango people, ranged 
 in order on each side, with lighted torches stuck in the ground 
 before them. Amongst them were conspicuous two mbuiti 
 men, or, as they might be called, doctors, dressed in cloth ot 
 vegetable fibre, with their skins painted grotesquely in 
 various colours, one side of the face red, the other white, and 
 in the middle of the breast a broad yellow stripe ; the circuit 
 of the eyes was also daubed with paint ; these colours are 
 made by boiling various kinds of wood, and mixing the 
 decoction with clay. The rest of the Ashangos were also 
 streaked and daubed with various colours, and by the light 
 of their torches they looked like a troop of devils assembled 
 in the lower regions to celebrate some diabolical rite ; around 
 their legs were bound white leaves from the heart of the 
 palm-tree ; some wore feathers, others had leaves twisted in 
 the shape of horns behind their ears, and all had a bundle ot 
 palm-leaves in their hands. 
 
 Soon after I entered, the rites began. All the men squatted 
 down on their haunches, and set up a deafening kind of wild 
 song. There was an orchestra of instrumental performers 
 near the idol, consisting of three drummers with two drum- 
 sticks each, one harper, and a performer on the soundino' 
 stick, which latter did not touch the ground, but rested on 
 two other sticks, so that the noise was made the more resonant. 
 The two mbuiti men, in the meantime, were dancing in a 
 fantastical manner in the middle of the temple, putting their 
 bodies into all sorts of strange contortions. Every time the 
 mbuiti men opened their mouths to speak, a dead silence 
 ensued. As the ceremony continued, the crowd rose and 
 surrounded the dancing men, redoubling at the same time 
 the volume of their songs, and, after this went on for some 
 time, returning to their former positions. This was repeated 
 several times. The mbuiti men, I ought to mention, had 
 
Chap. XXXV. THE DWARFS. ' 441 
 
 been sent for from a distance to officiate on the occasion. 
 The mbuiti men, like the witchcraft doctors, are important 
 persons among these inland tribes ; some have more reputa- 
 tion than others, but in general those who live furthest off 
 are most esteemed. 
 
 June 30th. The altitude of Niembouai I found to be 1896 ft. 
 above the level of the sea. The village lies in 1° 58' 54" S. 
 lat. and 11° 56' 38" E. long. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXV. 
 
 The dwarfs, or OboDgos — Villugcs of dwarfs — Another deserted village of 
 dwarfs — A new village — We approaeh with great caution — Flight of 
 the dwarfs — Meeting some dwarfs — Their sliyness — Leaving the dwarf 
 village in despair — Eeturn to their village — The people had fled — 
 Cunning of the dwarfs — Laughable scene when measuring some of 
 them — Appearance of the dwarfs — Modes of burial of the dwarfs — 
 The dwarfs great trappers and hunters of game — Mode of life of the 
 dwarfs — They are scattered all over the equatorial forests towards the 
 east. 
 
 I HAD heard that there was a ^village of the Obongos, or 
 dwarfed vsdld negroes, somewhere in the neighbourhood of 
 Niembouai, and one of my first inquiries on arriving at the 
 place was naturally whether there was any chance of my 
 seeing this singular people, who, it appears, continually 
 come into their villages, but would not do so while I was 
 there. The Ashangos themselves made no objection, and 
 even offered to accompany me to the Obongo village. They 
 told me, however, that I had better take with me only a 
 very small party, so that we might make as little noise as 
 possible. Two guides were given me, and I took only three 
 of my men. We reached the place after twenty minutes' 
 walk. In a retired nook in the forest were twelve huts of 
 this strange tribe, scattered without order, and covering 
 altogether only a very small space of ground. The shape of 
 
442 EQUATORIAL Ab'HlGA. Chap. XXXV. 
 
 the huts was the same as that I have before described in the 
 deserted Obongo village near Yengue. When we approached 
 thorn no sign of living creature was to be seen, and, in fact, 
 we found them deserted. The huts are of such slight con- 
 struction, and the Obongos so changeable, that they 
 frequently remove from one place to another. The abodes 
 were very filthy ; and whilst my Commi men and myself 
 were endeavouring to examine them, we were covered with 
 swarms of fleas and obliged to beat a retreat. The village 
 had been abandoned by its inhabitants. 
 
 Leaving the abandoned huts, we continued our way 
 through the forest ; and presently, within a distance of a 
 quarter of a mile, we came on another village, composed, 
 like the last, of about a dozen ill-constructed shelters, 
 scattered about, without any regular order, in a small open 
 space. The dwellings had been newly made, for the branches 
 of trees of which they were formed ha'd still their leaves on 
 them, quite fresh. We approached with the greatest caution, 
 in order not to alarm the wild inmates, my Ashango guides 
 holding up a bunch of beads in a friendly way, and shouting 
 " Do not run away ; the spirit has come with us to give you 
 beads ; " but all our care was fruitless, for the men, at least, 
 were gone when we came up. Their flight was very huiried. 
 We hastened to the huts, and luckily found three old women 
 and one young man, who had not had time to run away, 
 besides several children, the latter hidden in one of the 
 huts. 
 
 The little holes which serve as doors to the huts were 
 closed by fresh-gathered branches of trees, with their foliage, 
 stuck in the ground. My Ashango guides tried all they 
 could to calm the fears of the trembling creatures ; telling 
 them that I had come to do them no harm, but had brought 
 some beads to give them. I finally succeeded in approaching 
 them, for fear seemed to have paralysed their powers of 
 moving. I gave them some beads, and then made my 
 Ashango guides tell them that we should come back the next 
 day with more beads, to give some to all the women ; so 
 they must all be there. One of the old women, in the course 
 of a short time, lost all her shyness and began to ridicule the 
 
^-^^^^ 
 
 
 :** 
 
 
 
 
 aJJ* 
 
 
 
 I Ik 
 
 "IS* 
 
 
444 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXV. 
 
 men for having run away from us. Slie said they were as 
 timid as the nchende (squirrel), who cried " Que, Que," and 
 in squeaking she twisted her little body into odd contortions, 
 with such droll effect that we all laughed. 
 
 When I brought out my tape to measure her, her fears 
 returned ; thinking perhaps that it was a kind of snake that 
 I was uncoiling out of its case, she trembled all over. I told 
 her I was not going to kill her, but it required another 
 present to quiet her again. I accomplished my task at last. 
 I also measured the young man, who was adult, and probably 
 a fair sample of the male portion of his race. 
 
 We then returned to Niembouai. I had waited an hour, in 
 the vain hope that the men might come back to their huts. 
 By the way, the Obongo women seem to know how to tell 
 lies as well as their country-women of larger growth; for 
 when I inquired where the rest of the people were, they at 
 once replied that they were gone into the forest to fetch 
 firewood and to trap game. 
 
 The next day (Jidi/ Isf) I went again to their village, and 
 saw only one woman and two children. I had not come 
 early enough, the birds had flown. Luckily, the woman was 
 one of those I had seen the day before. I gave her and the 
 children a number of beads. Then suspecting that the 
 mother of the children was in the hut close by where they 
 stood, I went to it, took off the branch that had been put at 
 the entrance to signify that the owner was out, and then 
 putting half of my body into the hut, in the best way I 
 could, I finally succeeded in seeing in the dark something 
 which soon after I recognised as a human being. My 
 Ashango man called to her, telling her not to be afraid. I 
 succeeded in getting hold of one of her legs and pulled her 
 out of her abode. She seemed terribly frightened as I 
 looked at her, and avoided my direct glance. I was then 
 told that she had lost her husband a few days before, when 
 they lived in the now deserted village which I had seen on 
 my way hither. She had over her forehead a broad stripe 
 of yellow ochre. 
 
 I desired my Ashango guide to ask the women where they 
 
Chap. SXXV. MEASUREMENT OF VWAUFS. 4*5 
 
 buried their dead ; but he told me I had better not ask the 
 question, as they might get frightened, and the woman who 
 had just lost her husband might cry. 
 
 I gave the poor widow some beads, and then left tht-iu 
 again ; my old friend Misounda (for she told me her name) 
 inviting me to come back in the afternoon, as the men would 
 then have returned from the woods. I accordingly returned 
 in the course of the afternoon, but no men were to be 
 
 seen. _ 
 
 On a siibsequent visit I found the village deserted by ttie 
 women as well as by the men— at least, as we approached it, 
 the women, who had heard us, ran into their huts ; among 
 them I caught sight of my old friend Misounda running to 
 hide herself. This was doubly disappointiDg, as I had 
 flattered myself that I had quite tamed her. When we 
 entered the village not a sound was to be heard, and the 
 branches of the trees had been put up at the doors of all the 
 huts, to make us believe that the people had all gone into 
 the woods. My Ashango guide shouted aloud, "We have 
 come to give you more beads; where are you?" Not a 
 whisper was heard, no one answered our call ; but there was 
 no room for any mistake, as we had seen the women enter 
 the huts I therefore went to the hut of my old friend, 
 Misounda, took off the branch, and called her by name, but 
 there was no answer. It was so dark inside that I could see 
 nothing ; so I entered, and tumbled over the old woman. 
 Finding that she was detected, she came out, and pretended 
 that she had been fast asleep. Then she called out to the 
 other women, saying that I was not a leopard co.ne to eat 
 them, and that they need not be afraid. 
 
 In the course of other visits which I made to the village 
 during my stay at Niembouai I succeeded in measuring five 
 other women. I could not help laughing, for all of them 
 coTcred their faces with their hands; and it was only in 
 the case of Woman No. 1 that I could get any measure- 
 ments of the face. Unfortunately, I could not take the same 
 measurements for all. I did the best I could under such 
 circumstances. In order to allay their fears, I tried to 
 measure one of my Ashango guides, but he refused, being as 
 30 
 
416 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXV. 
 
 much frightened as the- women. The measurements are as 
 
 follows : — 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Woman No. 1, total height 4 4i 
 
 „ between the outer angles of the eyes SJ 
 
 „ No. 2, total height 4 YJ 
 
 „ No. 3, considered unusually tall . . . . 5 OJ 
 
 „ round the broadest part of the head 1 9i 
 
 „ from the eye to the ear 4 
 
 „ No. 4, total height 4 8 
 
 „ round the head - . 1 10 
 
 „ from the eye to the ear 3| 
 
 „ No. 5, total height 5 
 
 „ round the head 1 9 
 
 „ from the eye to the ear 4 j 
 
 „ No 6, total height 4 5 
 
 „ round the head 1 10^ 
 
 „ from the eye to the ear 4J 
 
 Young man, total height 4 6 
 
 The colour of these people was a dirty yellow, much 
 lighter than the Ashangos who surround them, and their 
 eyes had an untamable wildness about them that struck me as 
 very remarkable. In their whole appearance, physique, and 
 colour, and in their habitations, they are totally unlike the 
 Ashangos, amongst whom they live. The Ashangos indeed 
 are very anxious to disown kinship with them. They do 
 not intermarry with them ; but declare that the Obongos 
 intermarry among themselves, sisters with brothers, doing 
 this to keep the families together as much as they can. The 
 smallness of their communities, and the isolation in which 
 the wretched creatures live, must necessitate close inter- 
 breeding ; and I think it very possible that this circumstance 
 may be the cause of the physical deterioration of their race. 
 Their foreheads are exceedingly low and narrow, and they 
 have prominent cheek bones ; but I did not notice any 
 peculiarity in their hands or feet, or in the position of the 
 toes, or in the relative length of their arms to the rest of 
 their bodies ; but their legs appeared to be rather short in 
 proportion to their trunks ; the palms of their hands seemed 
 quite white. The hair of their heads grows in very short 
 curly tufts ; this is the more remarkable, as the Ashangos 
 
Chap. XXXV. APPEARANCE OF THE DWARFS. 447 
 
 and neighbouring tiibes have rather long bushy hair on 
 their heads, which enables them to dress it in various ways ; 
 with the Obongos the dressing of the hair in masses or plaits, 
 as is done by the other tribes, is impossible. The young 
 man had an unusual quantity of hair also on his legs and 
 breast, growing in short curly tufts similar to the hair of the 
 head, and all the accounts of the Ashangos which I heard 
 agreed in this, that the Obongo men were thickly covered 
 with hair on these parts of their body ; besides, I saw myself, 
 during the course of my stay at Niembouai on my return, 
 male Obongos in the village, and although they would not 
 allow me to approach them, I could get near enough to notice 
 the small tufts of hair : one of the men was black. The 
 only dress they wear consists of pieces of home-made cloth 
 which they buy of the Ashangos, or which these latter give 
 them out of pure kindness, for I observed that it was quite 
 a custom of the Ashangos to give their old worn denguis to 
 these poor Obongos. 
 
 The modes of burial of these savages, as related to me by 
 my Ashango companions, are curious. The most common 
 habit is to place the corpse in the interior of a hollow tree in 
 the forest, filling up the hole with branches and leaves 
 mixed with earth ; but sometimes they make a hole in the 
 bed of a running stream, diverting the current for the 
 purpose, and then, after the grave is covered in, turning 
 back the rivulet to its former course. I cannot, however, 
 vouch for the accuracy of this story. 
 
 The Ashangos like the presence of this curious people near 
 their villages because the Obongo men are very expert and 
 nimble in trapping wild animals and fish in the streams, the 
 surplus of which, after supplying their own wants, they sell 
 to their neighbours in exchange for plantains, and also for 
 iron implements, cooking utensils, water-jars, and all 
 manufactured articles of which they stand in need. The 
 woods near their villages are so full of traps and pitfalls that 
 it is dangerous for any but trained woodsmen to wander 
 about in them ; I always took care not to walk back from 
 their village to Niembouai after nightfall ; for in the path 
 itself there were several traps for leopards, wild boars, and 
 
448 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXV. 
 
 antelopes. From the path, traps for monkeys could be seen 
 everywhere : and I should not at all have relished having my 
 legs caught in one of these traps. I was surprised at the 
 kindness, almost the tenderness, shown by the Ashangos to 
 their diminutive neighbours. On one of my visits to the 
 village I saw about a dozen Niembouai women, who had 
 come with plantains to exchange for game, which they 
 expected to be brought in by the men. As the little hunters 
 had not returned from the forest, they were disappointed in 
 this errand ; but seeing that the Obongo women were 
 suifering from hunger, they left nearly all the plantains 
 with thorn as a gift, or, perhaps, on trust, for outside the hut 
 they were cooking roots of some tree, which did not seem to 
 me very nourishing. 
 
 The Obongos never remain long in one place. They are 
 eminently a migratory people, moving from place to place 
 whenever game becomes scarce. But they do not wander 
 very far ; that is, the Obongos who live within the Ashango 
 territory do not go out of that territory — they are called the 
 Obongos of the Ashangos — those who live among the Njavi 
 are called Obongo-Njavi— and the same with other tribes. 
 Obongos are said to exist very far to the east, as far, in fact, 
 as the Ashangos have any knowledge. They are distinct 
 from the people amongst whom they live, yet living for 
 generations within the confines of the same country. They 
 plant nothing, and depend partly for their vegetable food on 
 roots, berries, and nuts, which they find in the forest; 
 indeed, the men spend most of their days and many of their 
 nights in the woods, and it was partly on this account, and 
 their excessive shyness, that I was unable to examine them 
 closely. When they can no longer find wild animals in the 
 locality where they have made their temporary settlements, 
 they are sometimes apt to steal food from their more civilized 
 neighbours, and then decamp. Their appetite for animal 
 food is more like that of a carnivorous beast than that of a 
 man. Often they satisfy their hunger with meat alone. 
 
 One day I enticed the old woman, whose heart I had gained 
 Ijy many presents of beads, to Niombouai simply by promising 
 her a joint of goat-flesh. I had asked her if she was hungry 
 
Chap. XXXVI. DEPARTDEE FROM NIEMBOUAI. 449 
 
 — without answering me, she drew a long breath, drawing in 
 her stomach, to make me understand that it was very empty. 
 When she came, I tried to put her off with a bunch of 
 plantains, but she stuck tenaciously to my hut until I had 
 fulfilled my promise of giving her some meat, repeating the 
 word, etava, elava (goat, goat). Through her and an Ashango 
 interpreter I took down a few words of the Obongo language ; 
 it contains words of Asbango ; indeed their dialect is a 
 mixture of what was their own original language and tbe 
 languages of the various tribes among whom they have re- 
 sided for many years past. I was told that now and then 
 one of them will leave his people, and come and live among 
 the Ashangos. My guides were kind enough to inform me 
 that, if I wanted to buy an Obongo, they would be happy to 
 catch one for me. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXVI. 
 
 Departure from Niembouai — Oiiwarfia towards the east — A queer ferry — ■ 
 Appearance of the country — The village of Niembouai Olomba — 
 Numerous beeliives — Ashangos — The Apono and Ashira languages 
 the Slime — Appearance of the Ashangos — Attacked by Basliikouay 
 ants — Leave Niembouai Olomba — The village of Monibana — Outfit 
 of a bride — Presentation of Nteliingo, or red powder — Three different 
 paths to the Njavi country. 
 
 July bill. We were delayed three more days in Niembouai 
 through the illness of Ngoma, one of my Commi boys. I 
 paid the Ashango porters on the 2nd, and had some difficulty 
 in getting them away after the two days' delay without 
 giving them more.* Besides these we had eight porters to 
 
 • The names of my Ashango porters were as follows : — . 
 
 Magouga — Head man, 
 
 Adnombo, Mayombon (the 2nd), Mokela, 
 
 Mayombon, Moushagou, Madoungou, 
 
 Bishelo, Ibalo, Maniaga, 
 
 Moquangue, Dibako, Mamague, 
 
 Divangui, Dishelo, Badinga, 
 
 Moshelekai, Bengouin, Mayoubon, 
 
450 EQUATOHIAL AFBICA. Chap. XXXVI. 
 
 carry the loads of my Commi men, and a varying number 
 followed to carry the provisions and kettles. We had also 
 generally with ns three or four old fellows who followed us 
 f 1 om village to village, expecting to feed well on the road, 
 and at the end of a few days to get something for speech- 
 making ; for they thought they helped me wonderfully in 
 this way. With them departed Mokounga. 
 
 We started, led by Magouga, an influential man of Niem- 
 bouai. The path gradually descended into the valley of the 
 Ouano, a river which falls into the Odiganga. I found on 
 reaching its banks, about three miles east of Niembouai, that 
 we had descended more than 600 feet, the altitude being 
 1285 feet. The Ouano was about 30 or 40 yards wide, and 
 too deep to be forded. 
 
 We crossed this stream by a singular kind of ferry. The 
 boat or raft was formed of two logs of light wood, fifteen feet 
 long, and a flooring of laths, tied by their ends to the logs, 
 so as to form a rude vessel four or five feet broad. The boat 
 was propelled by the feirymen across the current, and, to 
 prevent its being swept down stream, it was attached, by 
 means of a stout creeper looped at the end, to a rope stretched 
 between trees across the river. Upright sticks were fixed in 
 the side-beams of the raft for the standing passengers to hold 
 on by. Our party were transported across the stream by 
 means of this contrivance in five journeys. In the rainy 
 season, when the ciirreiit is exceedingly strong, this ferry 
 must be very useful. I had never before seen a ferry of this 
 kind in Africa. 
 
 We ascended a high hill called Mogiama, the summit of 
 which was 2264 feet above the sea-level. Soon after, we 
 passed a small Ashango plantation, with a few huts on its 
 borders and patches of the wild tobacco-plant and of the 
 hemp. The tenants of the huts had fled at our approach, 
 and we cooked our dinner at the forsaken fires of the settle- 
 ment. My Ashango porters insisted upon killing their goat 
 here. When I asked them wh}' they had not killed and 
 eaten it at Niembouai, they replied that they were afraid 
 their own people would have asked them for some of the 
 meat. T then asked them why they did not wait until we 
 
Chap. XXXVI. 
 
 ON THE MAIiCH. 
 
 451 
 
 had reached the village to which we were going. Their 
 reply was the same— the people there also would ask them 
 for some of the meat. They sticceeded in eating the whole 
 of the goat at one meal ; after wliich they came to me saying, 
 " You see we have eaten the whole of it. Ashango people 
 have big stomachs." 
 
 The country continued very hilly, and we made dSlours to 
 avoid the steep ascents. At length, a little before the sun 
 
 AN AFRICAN 6E0UP.* 
 
 DRAWN FROM LIFE BY A. H. H. M. 
 
 set, we reached the village of Mongon, 12° 3' 37" E. long., 
 latitude 1° 56' 45" S. Many of my porters had relatives here, 
 and we were received in a fiiendly manner. We passed the 
 night in the village, and the place is 2488 feet above the sea- 
 level. 
 
 * This goat, parrot, hen, an<l idol were brought over by me, and 
 presented to tlio cliildren of my publisher, under whose care the three 
 former lived for a considerable number of years. 
 
452 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVI. 
 
 We left at about eight a.m. the next day, and after two 
 hours' march arrived at a small village called Niongo, virhere 
 we stopped for breakfast. 
 
 July 6th. The importunities of the villagers and their 
 chief delayed us here nearly three hours. I was getting 
 annoyed at these repeated delays. It was now nearly a year 
 since I left the coast. At last, I told the chief that if he was 
 so fond of me I would tie him with ropes and carry him with 
 us : we were allowed, after this, to depart without further 
 trouble. Of course I refused the proffered goat ; for it is an 
 universal rule with these tribes that, a present being received 
 by a stranger from the villagers, he is bound to make some 
 stay in the place. The refusal of the present of food is a 
 token that you do not wish to remain, hence the pertinacity 
 of these people in trying to force goats and so forth upon us, 
 when we are passing a village. I was again brought to a 
 standstill by the porters laying down their loads and de- 
 manding more pay. This was the Ishogo scene over again, 
 and terminated in the same manner, by the vigorous measure 
 of bringing my Commi men up with the muzzles of their 
 guns levelled at the heads of the offenders, followed by their 
 sudden repentance, and their laughing over the affair, as 
 usual, saying, " Let us stop a while and have a smoke. Do 
 you think we would leave you in the woods ? People may 
 be left in a village, but not in the forest." 
 
 About four P.M. we reached the village called Niembouai 
 Olomba, or " Further Niembouai," to distinguish it from the 
 other place of the same name which I will call Niembouai 
 West for the sake of distinction. We had made but eight 
 miles in a direct line in four hours' march ; but the road lies 
 over a succession of hills, eveiywhere thickly wooded ; and 
 travelling is most toilsome, heavily-laden as we all were. 
 
 We were received with great joy by the chief, who is the 
 " father," head chief, or king of this clan of Ashangos. 
 Houses were allotted to us ; presents of goats and plantains 
 were laid at my feet ; and I was glad to find that the old 
 chief had not run away. He had one of the mildest expres- 
 sions of face I had seen ; was tall, and about 60 years old. 
 
 The people of Niembouai Olomba were shy, but many of 
 
Chap. XXXVI. THE ASHANGOS. 453 
 
 them had seen me at Niembouai West. Like all the villages 
 in these mountains, it is surrounded with groves of plantain- 
 trees. Goats are very abundant, and the goat-houses are 
 scattered here and there throughout the village. Swallows 
 were flying over the streets, and numerous birds were singing, 
 perched on the surrounding tall trees, behind the plantain- 
 groves. In the street of the village is seen, now and then, 
 the stump of an old tree, which time has not been able to 
 destroy ; for here, wherever the people settle or plant, the 
 trees have to be cut down, and the stump and roots are left 
 to perish by the action of time. Niembouai Olomba is a 
 large village containing about 184 houses. Formerly this 
 and Niembouai West constituted one town (i.e., the popula- 
 tion all lived in one place). Nearly all the houses have bee- 
 hives fixed to the walls, and the honey is beautifully white 
 and well- flavoured. Wax is very abundant in Ashangoland, 
 and of a fine quality : the beehives were made simply of the 
 bark of trees, rolled up so as to form a cylinder, thus imitating 
 a hollow tree in which bees make their hives in the wild 
 state. The ends of the cylinder are closed with pieces of 
 bark, in which holes are made for the entrance and exit of 
 the bees ; wooden hoops are fixed at each extremity to keep 
 the cylinder in shape. 
 
 Although the Ashangos are certainly quite a distinct tribe 
 from the Ishogos, for they speak a diiferent language, I did 
 not notice any striking dift'erence in their appearance or 
 habits. Their language is the same as that of the Ashira. 
 In one particular they contrast advantageously with the 
 tribes nearer the coast, namely, in the amplitude of their 
 clothing. All are well clothed with the beautiful native 
 cloth of this region. I did not even see any naked children. 
 The denguis or robes of chiefs are of unusually large size, 
 and are worn generally very gracefully. They seem to tattoo 
 themselves rather more than the Ishogos do ; the women do 
 not pierce their ears for ear-ornaments ; their head-dress is 
 the same as that of the Ishogo women. Although the streets 
 of the Ishogo villages were broader, the houses of the 
 Ashangos are larger than those of their neighbours. Both 
 tribes adopt the cu.stom of taking out their two middle upper 
 
454 BQUATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVl. 
 
 incisors, and of filing the other incisors to a point; but the 
 Ashangos do not adopt the custom of filing also the upper 
 incisors. Some of the women have the four upper incisors 
 taken out. They submit to this process, in order to be con- 
 sidered the leading belles of the village. All of them, both 
 male and female, shave oif their eyebrows and pluck ont 
 their eyelashes, and both tribes smear themselves with 
 ntohiugo, or red powder. 
 
 Beating the woman is here of very rare occurrence, I am 
 told ; and I have not, myself, seen a single case of woman- 
 beating. In fact, the women have their own way in many 
 things. Almost every Ashango carries a sabre made by the 
 Shimba and Ashangui tribes. Their other weapons are spears 
 and jioisoned arrows. They do not forge any iron here, but 
 get it from tribes further east. They have the reputation 
 of being more quarrelsome than the Ishogos, and of being 
 greater liars. This sin of lying is, unfortunately, thought 
 of little matter in this part of the world. 
 
 July 8th. Last niglit, as I was quietly lying on my bed, 
 I was aroused by a rustling and scratching noise in the hut 
 and the flying of numerous cockroaches, some of them 
 alighting on the back of my neck, which, by the waj^ 
 produces one of the most unpleasant sensations I know of. 
 I knew it must be an invasion of Bashikouay ants, and 
 started up and called my men. The active creatures were 
 already on my bed, and I was lucky in making my escape 
 without being half devoured by them. They were. attracted, 
 no doubt, by a quarter of goat's meat hanging in the chamber, 
 fur, unfortunately, my sleeping room is obliged to be also 
 ]iiy store-room. The men hastened to fetch hot ashes to 
 spread over the floor, which was black with the shining 
 bodies of these most destructive ants, who come to their 
 work in dense masses. Had their progress not been checked 
 they would have finished our goat-meat in a very short time, 
 for they were already climbing the walls, and we had to 
 sweep them down on the hot cinders, not daring to apply a 
 torch to the wall of such a combustible edifice as an Ashano-o 
 hut. In the afternoon I ascended one of the hills which 
 form so grand a feature in the landscape close to Niembouai. 
 
Chap. XXXVI. INSUBORDINATE POSTERS. 455 
 
 An almost perpetual mist shrouds the summit of this hill, 
 which is called Birogou Bouanga. I found the altitude to 
 be 2574 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 From the summit of Birogou Bouanga I could see the 
 country for many miles round. The mountains appeared to 
 be, for the most part, of nearly equal height. 
 
 July 12th. We did not leave Niembouai Olomba without 
 trouble. First, my porters of Niembouai West wanted an 
 increase of pay; then the people of Niembouai Olomba 
 wanted them to leave me with them, and to go back to their 
 own country, saying that they could take care of me. 
 Magouga retorted that he also could take care of me. On 
 their referring the matter to me, in order to please both 
 parties, I said I would take half my porters from Niembouai 
 West, and the other half from Niembouai Olomba. 
 
 When at length we started, Magouga and the chief of 
 Niembouai Olomba were both with me, and with Eebouka 
 we formed the rear-guard of the caravan. I kept constantly 
 on the alert, and took care always to make one of these two 
 leading men walk before me, for, in so wild a country, one 
 cannot be too careful. 
 
 We were now on our march to the country of the Njavi 
 tribe, who live to the east of Ashangoland. My Ashango 
 porters were to convey me to the principal village of the 
 Njavi, and I had hoped that all would go smoothly, now that 
 we had left Niembouai and were again on the road. But 
 further troubles were in store for me. Several of the porters 
 went on ahead, and, concealing themselves in the forest, let 
 us pass them, and then made off to their own village. When 
 we halted to rest the porters, I discovered that several of them 
 were missing. The absentees all belonged to Niembouai 
 West. We waited for them, but in vain. Both they and 
 their, loads were gone. 
 
 Being determined to check this new evil at its commence- 
 ment, I ordered a halt near Mobana, and, seizing Magouga, 
 placed three of my Comtui men as guard over him, with orders 
 to shoot him if he attempted to escape ; and I told him that 
 1 should not release him until the lost property was restored 
 by the Niembouai ^sorters under his leadership. In the 
 
456 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVI. 
 
 meantime tiie old chief of Niembouai Olomba, with his 
 people, came to me, and said, " I have nothing to do with 
 this — here are all my people, here are all their loads. Why 
 did you not take my people only ? We do not steal in my 
 village." 
 
 Mobana is a large village situated on the top of a high 
 hill, at a height of 2369 feet above the level of the sea. The 
 range, at the foot of which Niembouai is situated, is the 
 highest of the four ranges, reckoning from the coast. The 
 houses are like those of Niembouai. Numerous beehives 
 hang against the houses or are scattered among the 
 plantain-trees. Goats are plentiful ; some of them are of 
 great size, and very fat. While here, I assisted at the 
 departure of a young woman who had been given in marriage 
 to a man of a neighbouring village. Her father was to take 
 her there, with all the marriage outfit. It consisted of eight 
 wooden plates ; two large baskets for carrying plantains from 
 the plantations, or calabashes full of water from the spring ; 
 a great number of calabashes ; a large package of ground- 
 nuts ; a package of squash seeds ; two dried legs of antelope ; 
 some fine nchandas (the name given to the denguis here), 
 and her stool. Several members of her family carried this 
 elaborate outfit. The bride-elect was smartly dressed ; her 
 headdress had been huilt up most elaborately the day before. 
 As she left the village, the people remarked to each other, 
 " Her husband will see that the Mobana people do not send 
 away their daughters with nothing ! " 
 
 Her old mother accompanied her to the end of the street, 
 and then returned to her home, looking proud and happy at 
 having seen her daughter go with such an outfit. 
 
 After we entered Mobana, the villagers wanted my men to 
 smear themselves with nlcMngo or red powder, bringing for 
 this purpose several of their wickerwork dishes, on which 
 was placed a quantity of the pigment. This I found a 
 general custom amongst the Ashangos when a host wishes 
 to welcome a guest ; and a visitor to a village or a house is 
 only too hapj)y when the elders or the owner of the house 
 request him to make hinaself red, for it is a sign of their 
 good wJUi As we were entering the village we met a 
 
Chap. XXXVII. MOUaOV KOMSO. 457 
 
 Niembouai man coining out quite furious about something 
 or other, and venting threats and curses ; on asking him what 
 was the matter, he said that the Mobana people had not 
 offered him the ntcMngo, and he was going back to the place 
 whence he came. 
 
 At the foot of the hill on which Mobana stands, there is 
 a stream called Bembo, flowing in a north-easterly direction. 
 The natives pointed towards the east when I inquired as 
 to its further course. 
 
 I have at last succeeded in hiring porters. Eakombo and 
 his men have sworn to carry me to the Njavi country. The 
 good old chief of Niembouai Olomba has taken his departure 
 to return to his old village. 
 
 The country, as far as I am able to see eastward and 
 south-eastward, continues hilly, the hills being of moderate 
 elevation. There are three paths from Mobana leading into 
 the Njavi country ; one towards the north-east, one nearly 
 due east, and a third south-east. Mobana is 1° 52' 66" S. lat. ; 
 longitude, by my dead reckoning, I place about 12° 27' E. 
 
 July 21 si. We proceeded in an easterly direction, passing 
 several villages, one of which was called Kombo ; and after 
 a march of nearly four hours we reached the village of 
 Mouaou Kombo, 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 Arrival at Mouaou Kombo— True Ashango clans— Troubles brewing- 
 Departure of tlie Niembouai and Mobana people — Retire from the 
 
 village A palaver — Peace made — Return to the village — Promise to 
 
 take me to the Njavi tribe — A terrible accident — A man accidentally 
 killed— Great panic among the natives— War drums beating. 
 
 The first events on my arrival at Mouaou Kombo were not 
 encouraging ; but still the difficulties I encountered were only 
 of the ordinary sort which every African traveller meets 
 with, and were nearly overcome, when the event happened 
 which brought my further progress to an end. In the first 
 place, I found that Rakombo and his Mobana porters in- 
 tended to break through their agreement to take me to the 
 
458 EQUATORIAL AFRICA Chai-. XXXVII 
 
 Njavi country. The Mouaou people belonged to a different 
 clan from the Mobanas, and there appeared not to be a 
 cordial understanding although there had been a good many 
 intermarriages between them. We had no sooner arrived at 
 the village — the elders of which at first behaved well, giving 
 me a large house to stay in — than the Mobana porters, having 
 laid down their loads, gave us the slip ; one by one, on some 
 pretence or other, they sneaked off amongst the trees which 
 surround the village, and we saw them no more. It was in 
 vain that I threatened Eakombo. I could see nothing to 
 enable me to fix the blame on him ; he declared that the 
 Mouaou people would not allow him to take me onward. 
 
 On the second day after my arrival (July 23rd), the head 
 chief, named Kombo, made his appearance, and gave me 
 presents of goats and plantains to indicate that I was welcome, 
 then he called the villagers together and made them a long 
 speech, to the effect that the Niembouai and Mobana people 
 having left the " Spirit " in their hands, it fell to their duty 
 to take me onward to the Njavi country ; and that they were 
 not to rob me, for, if they did, they would surely die, as had 
 happened to the Niembouaians. It was then that I learnt 
 that the thieves must have been tasting my arsenic, or had 
 probably mixed it with the salt they had stolen. I soon 
 made friends with the people, engaged porters, and paid 
 them, and all seemed to be going on well for a fresh start. 
 
 On the day following I found no signs of readiness for 
 departure. The chief came to me, and explained that the 
 men were obliged to go to the forest to cut firewood to leave 
 with their vidves. It is true that this is the custom of these 
 people ; fur, amongst the Ishogo and Ashango, the men on 
 leaving their wives have to gather a sufHcient quantity of 
 firewood to last their families during their absence. Kombo, 
 addressing himself to Igala — for, when holding a palaver, 
 these people never address themselves directly to the person 
 for whom the speech is intended — said, " I see by the look 
 of the Oguizi that he thinks I am deceiving him, and that I 
 lie; he must not judge me so harshly. A man may have a 
 fine body, yet, if his heart is bad, he is an ugly man ; there- 
 fore, if a man's heart is good, people should not look at his 
 
Chap. XXXVII. MY ADVANCE IS STOPPED. 159 
 
 body. To morrow the Ogtiizi will see whether I have a good 
 heart or a bad heart : Kombo will take him to the Njavi 
 country." 
 
 In the afternoon the village street became deserted. I 
 walked down it, but could see no one. I called my men 
 together ; Igala shook his head, and said that they were all 
 gone to " mogoua orouugo " (hold a secret meeting), and that 
 it boded no good. 
 
 Such was indeed the case. When the meeting broke up 
 all the men of the village assembled before my hut, and the 
 chief began a long rambling speech, the purport of which 
 was that I must give them more goods before I could leave 
 the place. He said the Niembouai Mobana people had left 
 me because they were unable to take me to Njavi ; that he 
 alone could help me forward, and I must therefore pay him 
 at least as much as I had paid the people at other places. 
 He asked particularly for the pieces of a large brass kettle 
 which I had broken yesterday, and also for many measures 
 of gunpowder. 
 
 The question of more pay was not, however, what had 
 drawn the people to their secret meeting. The true cause 
 was the arrival of a deputation, from some villages further 
 ahead, to threaten the Mouaou people with war if they came 
 with me through their villages. The aim of the embarrassed 
 Kombo was to gain time, during which he might settle his 
 outstanding palavers with the hostile villagers further on. 
 
 The next day (July 25th), on finding there was no chance 
 of our departure, I made up my mind to retire for a time 
 from the village, and show my displeasure in that way 
 this being an eifective mode of bringing them to reason, for 
 I knew they would come and humbly promise everything I 
 wanted to induce me to come back. I made all the porters 
 return the pay in beads that I had given them, and then 
 with my men transported my baggage to a distance in the 
 woods, on the borders of one of those beautifully clear 
 streams which are so frequent in this mountainous region. 
 The amount and weight of my baggage were still very 
 great. The path down to the place of our letreat was very 
 steep, and, from what I could gather by a survey of our 
 
4B0 JSQtJATORIAL AVRICA. Chap. XXXVlI. 
 
 position, I found we should be on the main eastern road 
 from Mouadii. The villagers looked on at our proceedings 
 in mute amazement. 
 
 Before evening the whole of the baggage was removed. 
 My men erected sheds, and collected firewood to cook our 
 supper. The place was a very pleasant one, under the 
 shade of magnificent trees whose closely interwoven crowns 
 would protect us from the night mist, which dissolves in a 
 sf)aking drizzle almost every night in this humid country. 
 The path near our encampment was a broad and wrell-trodden 
 one, showing that it was one of the highways of the district. 
 
 As soon as we had finished, I sent Igala and two other 
 men, well armed, along the path to try to find the next 
 village, and ascertain, if possible, why they did not wish us 
 to pass through. My messengers returned in about two 
 hours, Igala laughing whilst describing to me the ignomin- 
 ious way in which the waniors of the village, armed to 
 resist our progress, ran away at the sight of him and his 
 two companions. The villagers told him that they had no 
 quarrel with me, but had an old feud with the Mouaou 
 people about two slaves that were owing to them, and that 
 they were determined not to let them pass until the debt 
 was paid. " If that is the case," said Igala, " why don't you 
 come and fetch our luggage and take us on yourselves?" 
 To this they returned evasive answers ; they would call a 
 council of the people to consider the matter, and give us an 
 answer to-morrow, &c., &c. 
 
 It was impossible to get at the truth of the case. How I 
 wished I had an armed party, strong enough to force my 
 way through the barriers which the caprice and trickery of 
 these savages opposed to my progress ! With twenty men 
 like Igala and Macondai, I would have set all these vapour- 
 ing fellows at defiance, and have been half-way across the 
 continent by this time. Before we laid down to rest I had 
 branches cut from the trees and strewed all around our 
 encampment, to prevent, by the noise and impediments they 
 would cause, a nocturnal surprise, which I thought very 
 likely to happen, for parties of men from time to time 
 sneaked through the woods, and after talking to us and 
 
Chap. XXXVII. MY PROSPECTS IMPROVE. 461 
 
 taking note of our position, quietly went back again. They 
 were armed with hearded spears similar to those carried by 
 the Fane, and which they get from the Ashangui tribe. I 
 did not sleep all night. My negroes kept watch, taking it 
 in turns, three sleeping and three waking, and I made them 
 tell stories one after the other, speaking loud, so as to show 
 the people we were awake and watchful. 
 
 July 2Qih. Early in the morning, as I had expected, a 
 deputation from Mouaou, consisting of all the elders of the 
 village, came to me, and with sorrowful countenances asked 
 why I had deserted them. Thej' prayed me to come back, 
 and repeated that it was not their fault that my journey 
 had been delayed, but the fault of the next village ahead. 
 They promised earnestly that if I came back they would 
 send me forward in two days, and by another route, to the 
 south-east, so as to avoid the hostile villages, the people of 
 which, they said, had made up their minds now to take me, 
 but had laid a plan to leave me in the middle of the forest 
 and run away with the baggage. 
 
 As the promised answer did not come from the other 
 village, and the Mouaou elders seemed to be sincere, I 
 agreed to go back. In a few moments all my baggage was 
 shouldered by strong men, and, with shouts of rejoicing, we 
 marched up the hill to the village. All the population was 
 then out to receive us. The chief came in state, with his 
 countenance painted and his royal bell ringing, and, after 
 repeating what the elders had said, made us presents of 
 goats and plantains. Soon after, the honde, or head wife, of 
 the chief came to tell us that she was cooking a large pot of 
 the koa root for me and my men, and all went pleasantly. 
 The villagers were thoroughly sincere this time, and I felt 
 happy, for there were not likely to be any more obstacles in 
 my way before arriving in the Ashangui country, on the 
 banks of the large river, which every one was now telling 
 me of. I had heard that in one day we should get through 
 the districts on this side of the Ashangui country ; that in a 
 few hours after leaving Mouaou Kombo we should be among 
 the Njavi tribe ; and that we could, in the same day, pass 
 through the country of the Abombos. 
 31 
 
462 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVII. 
 
 But four men from the hostile village, arrayed in war- 
 rior's attiie and brandishing plantain-leaves over their 
 beads, came in. They said they had held their palaver this 
 morning and had decided not to let the Oguizi pass; there 
 would be war if the Mouaou people attempted to bring me. 
 
 Kombo, who was seated by my side, told me to hide 
 myself in my hut, so as not to give the strangers the 
 pleasure of seeing me ; he then ordered my men to make a 
 demonstration with their guns to intimidate these vapouring 
 warriors. I laughed as I saw the men taking to their heels 
 as soon as Igala advanced towards them, firing his gun in 
 the air. But my men got excited, and hurrying forward 
 into the open space to fire their guns in the air, one of the 
 weapons loaded with ball went off before the muzzle was 
 elevated. I did not see the act ; but, immediately after the 
 report of the guns, I was startled to see the Mouaou villagers, 
 with affrighted looks and shouts of alarm, running in all 
 direction. The king and his head wife, who were both near 
 me, fled along with the rest. 
 
 " Mamo ! Mamo ! " (the untranslatable cry of anguish of 
 these poor Africans) was now heard on all sides. I rushed 
 out, and not far from my hut saw, lying on the ground, the 
 lifeless body of a negro : his head shattered and his brains 
 oozing from his broken skull. Igala ran to me with terrified 
 looks, saying, " Oh, Chaillie, I could not help it ; the gun 
 went off! " The inevitable consequences of the deed flashed 
 across my mind. The distrust of my motives amongst these 
 people, which had only just been overcome, would now 
 return with redoubled force. They would make common 
 cause with the enraged warriors of the neighbouring 
 villages ; hundreds of men, armed with poisoned spears and 
 arrows, would soon be upon us. I called to the king to come 
 back and not be afraid ; but already the war drums were 
 beating. Kombo shouted : " You say you come here to do 
 no harm and do not kill people ; is not this the dead body of 
 a man? " It was out of the question our trying to make our 
 way eastward ; without goods and without escort, there was 
 no help for it but to go back to the Ishogo country as fast 
 as we could. 
 
Chap. XXXVIII. 1 AM FOltCKD TO IlETHEAT. ,463 
 
 I got my men tngoilier, seven in number, anci gave a few- 
 hasty directions about the baggage with wliich our hut was 
 iilled. I dill not l<iiow what to do. The thought flashed 
 across my mind that it woiihl be best to set iire to tlie hut; 
 but I dreaded the further sacrifice of life that miglit be 
 caused by the exido.'^ion of so miich gunpowder. Our main 
 purpose now was to got away on the forest patli before the 
 warriors, who woukl otherwise impede our advance and 
 rouse other villages ahead. Ammunition was what was 
 must necessary to us now ; I served out. a good supply of 
 bullets and powder to each man ; loaded some of them with 
 my most valuable articles, my journals, photographs, natural 
 history specimens, and a few of my ligtiler goods, and took, 
 for my share of the burdens, five chronometers, a sextant, 
 two revolvers, rifle, with another gun slung at my back, and 
 a heavy load of ammunition. " Now boys," I said, " keep 
 together, do not be afraid, and do not fire until 1 give the 
 order ; if it is God's will that we should die, we must die ; 
 but let us try our best, and we may reach the sea in safety ! " 
 The brave lads, although struck with terror, and fully 
 comprehending the gravity of the situation, stood their 
 ground. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVITI. 
 
 A momentous pause — The liead wife uf a fi iendly chief killed — A general 
 shout of war — The order of retreat — A deadly struggle oomnienees — 
 Igala and I are wounded — My men narrowly escape— Making a 
 desperate stand — Long rifle firing — Tunrnltnous shouting — Devotion 
 of my Commi men — Throwing away our heavy loads — Anotlier stand 
 — The enemy is cowed — Trouhles tlireateiicd among the natives — 
 Advice to my men in case I am killed or die — Passing Niemboiiai 
 Olomba at niglit— Travelling tlirough the forest in darkness— Arrival 
 at a plantation — Friendly welcome— Stories of our struggles— The 
 war-dish prepiired between the people of Mobana and Mouaou-Komba 
 — I am supposed to change my shape during the fight— Leaving 
 Igoumbie' — Farewell to the Isliogos — On our way towards the sea- 
 shore-Meeting with Quengueza. 
 
 Foil a moment there seemed a chance of the affair being 
 patched up. Igala had explained in shouting to the 
 
464 EQUATOBIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVIII. 
 
 frightened Kombo and the elders, that it was all an accident 
 and that I would pay the value of twenty men in goods if 
 they would listen to me. I had hurriedly taken out a 
 qiiantity of beads and cloth and spread it on the ground in 
 the middle of the street, as the price of the life. One of the 
 head men had e.ven come forward, saying, " It is good, let us 
 hold the palaver." The war drums had ceased beating. 
 But it was but a gleam of sunshine in the midst of a storm ; 
 at that moment a woman came rushing out of a hut, wailing 
 and tearing her hair — the head wife of a friendly head man 
 had been also killed by the fatal bullet which, after killing 
 the negro, had pierced the thin wall of her hut ! 
 
 A general shout arose of " War ! " and every man rushed 
 for his spear or his bow. I gave the order for the retreat ; 
 for 1 saw at once that there was no chance of peace, but that 
 a deadly struggle was about to commence. Away we went ; 
 Igala took the best of our remaining dogs, and led the van ; 
 I bringing up the rear. It was not an instant too soon ; 
 before we were well on the forest path leading from the 
 village, a number of arrows were discharged at us ; Igala 
 was hit in the leg, and one of the missiles struck me on the 
 hand, cutting through one of my fingers to the bone. 
 Macondai and Rebouka, in leaving the village, narrowly 
 escaped being transfixed with spears, and only succeeded in 
 repelling their assailants by pointing their guns at them. 
 If I had not stopped them from firing, they would have shot 
 a number of them. Wild shouts, and the tramp of scores of 
 infuriated savages close behind us, put us on our mettle. I 
 shc)uted to my men not to fire, for we were in the wrong, and 
 to the villagers that we would not shoot them if they did 
 not pursue us to the forest, but that if they followed us we 
 should certainly kill them. 
 
 Our pursuers had the disadvantage that they were obliged 
 to stop every time they wanted to shoot, to adjust the arrow 
 and take aim, and in the forest paths we were often out of 
 sight round turnings in the road before they could deliver 
 their shot. Bloreover, their bravest men durst not come up 
 to close quarters with us, although they often came near 
 enough to make us hear their shouts of defiance ; they cried 
 
Chap. XXXVIIT, WE ARE PUE8UED. 465 
 
 out that it was of no use our attempting to escape from 
 them, that we did not know the road through the bush, and 
 should never j^et out of it alive. They seemed to be most 
 bittei- against Igala, whom thej^ called Malanga. " You 
 have tasted blood," they shouted out, " and your own blood 
 must be shed." Thej^ dodged about, took short cuts through 
 the jungle, and we were in constant fear lest some spear or 
 arrow should come from behind the trees on our ilanks, and 
 finish us for good. Besides it would be impossible long to 
 keep up the pace at which we ran. After behaving so 
 steadily at starting, a sudden and unaccountable panic seized 
 my men when we were some distance on the road, and for 
 about ten minutes no shouts of mine could make them stop. 
 To lighten themselves they threw load after load into the 
 bush, and the toil of months was irrecoverably lost. 
 
 After we had retreated some four or five miles, finding 
 that our enemies still pursued us, I felt that it was time to 
 make a stand and give them a sjjecimen of our power, for if 
 we allowed theui to go on in this way there would be danger 
 of their rousing against us the villagers ahead. I ordered a 
 halt. Mouitchi, one of our number, was missing, and we 
 concluded be had fallen a victim ; our pursuers, before we 
 left the village, had shouted to us that they had killed him ; 
 poor Igala, my best and bravest man, complained sorely of 
 the wound in his leg. He believed the lance was poisoned. 
 There was time only for a few words of encouragement ; our 
 pur.-uers were in sight, and a number of men were threading 
 the jungle apparently with a view of flanking us. . I 
 shouldered my long-range rifle, and, as the leader advanced 
 adjusting his bow, I fired. His right arm dropped broken 
 and powerless by his side, and the next man behind fell 
 with a crash amongst a mass of fallen leaves and branches. 
 Eebouka also fired at a man in the bush, who disappeared 
 suddenly, as if shot, down a steep bank. This served as a 
 check for the present, and we jogged on more leisurely. 
 
 We had not gone far when a tumultuous shouting was 
 heard behind us and a large number of warriors hove in sight, 
 more furious than ever. The path was most difficult, over 
 one steep hill after another and the village of Mobana, likely 
 
Chap. XSXVIII. A PERILOUS EETBEAT. 467 
 
 to be hostile to us, was only about a mile from us. We 
 increased our speed, but our pursuers were within range, 
 and a paralysing thud, accompanied by a sharp pain, told me 
 that I had been again struck. This time it was in my side ! 
 I had no time to stop to take the arrow out, and the barbed 
 head having gone through the leather belt of my revolvers, 
 the point was working in my flesh every step I took, causing 
 the most acute torture. Had its force not been arrested by 
 the resistance of the leather, it would probably have killed 
 me. After I was struck, Igala, the unfortunate cause of all 
 our woe, who kept close by me during our flight, turned 
 round and by a quick and well-directed shot laid the loo 
 skilful bowman low. The unfeigned sorrow and devotion of 
 my men at this juncture were most gratifying to me. I was 
 getting weak from loss of blood, and a burning thirst was 
 tormenting me. They asked what was to become of them if 
 I should die ? I told them to keep together, come what 
 might ; and, if they escaped, to deliver all my journals and 
 papers to the white men. Wherever we stopped for a few 
 minutes during this disastrous day, they came round me and 
 asked me how I felt, and what they could do for me. 
 
 My strength began to fail me, and I had myself to follow 
 Ihe example of my men in throwing away things to lighten 
 the load I carried. To my great sorrow I had to throw into 
 the bush my beautiful double-barrelled breech-loading rifle, 
 a magnificent weapon, carrying a two and a half ounce steel- 
 pointed ball. 
 
 Another check was necessary. Igala said, " I know I am 
 going to die, but let me kill a few of these fellows first." 
 He concealed himself behind a tree, whilst we contiuued 
 forward to draw on the men, for we had found that the 
 tactics of our pursuers were to send to the van their most 
 expert bowman to get as near to us as they safely could, 
 while the rest of them remained behiud, shouting loudly, to 
 make us believe tbat they were all far off. The foremost 
 was not long in coming within Igala's range, who fired, and 
 the man fell. 
 
 At last we crossed the difficult stream near Mobana called 
 the Bembo, and commenced the ascent of the steep hill on 
 
468 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVIIL , 
 
 which the village is situated. It was a critical stage in our 
 retreat. We thought it likely messengers might have gone 
 by other paths to rouse the people against us, as the men 
 who pursued us shouted out, " Men of Mobana, do not let the 
 Oguizi's people pass ! they have killed our people ! " As we 
 expected, we found the fighting men all ranged in battle 
 airay at the further end of the village. Our road, however, 
 lay a little out of their way ; we passed quickly, and were 
 soon again immersed in the shade of the forest path. 
 
 So far from being free, we were now followed by the 
 Mouaou and Mobana -warriors united. The path led at first 
 down the hill and we hurried along it at full speed so as not 
 to be caught at a disadvantage. A little further on, half- 
 way up another hill, Igala and Eapelina stayed behind and 
 shot another man, wounding him only, and s.ending him 
 howling back to his companions. 
 
 After this there was a lull for a short time. We stopped 
 and considered what was best to be done. We were all tired 
 with our long run over the rugged hilly forest road. I had 
 wished to escape without causing any further sacrifice of life 
 if possible, but it was plain that unless we killed more than 
 we had done we should be unable to free ourselves from our 
 enemies before nightfall, and then they might surround us 
 and massacre us all. My men and myself agreed that we 
 should here choose a place to make a last stand, and give 
 them a lesson that should put a stop to them. 
 
 We had leisure to look out for a good position, for we 
 knew the district, and remembered every hill. On the slope 
 of one of the hills there was a place where a number of trees 
 grew close together. We stationed ourselves each behind a 
 broad trunk, but all within a short distance of each other, 
 and there waited the arrival of our pursuers. As usual, the 
 bowman came oif first, but we heard the noise of a multitude 
 not far behind them, all bellowing forth curses on our heads. 
 As soon as a good number were visible down the broad and 
 tolerably straight road, Igala and Eapelina both fired. One 
 man fell, evidently dead, and another was wounded in the 
 face, to all appearance his jaw broken. Ngoma then took 
 liis aim, but his shot fell wide, The fellows seemed to be 
 
Chap. XXXVIII. A RESPITE. 469 
 
 cowed at this unexpected otislaught, and when we suddenly 
 emerged from behind the trees and showed ourselves, tViey 
 all beat a retreat. It was our last combat, and although we 
 heard them for a long time afterwards, it was always at a 
 great distance. 
 
 We now breathed more freely. We halted, laid down our 
 loads and rested, keeping a sharp lookout at the same time. 
 My clothes were quite saturated with blood ; but the flow of 
 blood appeared to have carried off the poison, for I felt no 
 further ill effect from the wound except the pain, and it was 
 healed three weeks afterwards. 
 
 The action of the poison used by the natives is not very 
 rapid ; it causes corruption of the flesh around the wound, 
 discharge of matter, and eventually gangrene ; when an 
 arrow or spear penetrates into the bowels, death is, of course, 
 certain to ensue, but if the wound is only an external one it 
 is very seldom fatal. The arrow-head which had pierced my 
 side was found, when wrenched from the wound, to have 
 been poisoned ; but the coating of poison had been fortunately 
 scraped off it in passing through the leather, and my wound, 
 though extremely painful, was not a dangerous one. 
 
 As we were again shouldering our otaitais (now almost 
 empty) to resume our march, we descried a man a short 
 distance off, walking stealthily through the bushes up the 
 hill and occasionally hiding himself. He was coming 
 towards us, and we were at once on our guard again. Igala 
 volunteered to go down and watch his movements. We 
 waited the result in dead silence. The man came nearer, 
 and we saw that he had a gun in his hand : it was Mouitchi, 
 whom we had given up for lost ! He had escaped without a 
 scratch, by running along by-paths in the forest within 
 sound of the noisy crowd of our pursuers. He told ue that 
 the men we had hit in the last encounter were dead, and 
 that our pursuers had resolved to desist from following us, 
 saying that they should all be killed one by one if they 
 went on., 
 
 'J'he forest after this resumed its accustomed stillness, 
 undisturbed by the savage war-cries and still more savage 
 purses of the infuriated Ashangos. We had another village 
 
470 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVIII. 
 
 to pass, Ni-embouai Olomba, where I thought we might be 
 attacked. Before we reached the place we met two women 
 in the path belonging to Mobana. Igala wanted to shoot 
 them, but I prevented him and gave him a sharp reprimand 
 for thinking of such an act. I had given him an order at 
 starting that if any women, old men, or children should be 
 met with on the road he must let them pass unhurt, but that 
 he was to shoot down armed men without mercy, this being 
 necessary for our safety. Igala did not like this style of 
 making war ; he said this was not the white man's country, 
 and we ought not to fight in white man's fashion. 
 
 Thus we went on till sundown. We were then near the 
 village of Niembouai Olomba, and had travelled at least 
 over twenty miles of ground without food since nine o'clock 
 in the morning. 
 
 I thought it unsafe in our exhausted state to run the 
 gauntlet of this large and possibly hostile village, through 
 which lay the only path we knew, and my men agreed with 
 me that our best plan would be to retire into the forest, 
 some distance from the main road, and sleep there till 
 midnight. We might then pass through before the fighting 
 men were aroused and seized their weapons. 
 
 The plan was canied out. We plunged into the dense 
 part of the forest, and then lay down on the ground to sleep, 
 in a small open space, muzzling our dog that he should not 
 betray our hiding-place. Darkness had closed in : silence 
 was broken only by the mournful cry of a solitary owl. My 
 exhausted men thought neither of leopards, nor poisonous 
 snakes, nor hostile savages, but slept soundly ; as for myself, 
 I was too anxious to sleep, and Igala distressed me by his 
 moaning from time to time, although he tried all he could to 
 suppress it. 
 
 The night air was misty and cold. As I lay awake on 
 the damp ground, I thought of kindred and friends, of the 
 many happy hours I had spent in happy homes, amidst 
 every luxury of civilized life ; and I felt desolate. 
 
 At last I thought it must be near midnight. I looked at 
 my watch. I was right ; so I awoke my men and sent two 
 of tbem into the path that leads to the village, telling them 
 
Chap. XXXVIII. A NIGHT MARCH. ill 
 
 to go and see if all was quiet. They returned with a 
 favourable report. Then calling them all close to me, I said, 
 " My boys, I have fought for you as hard as I could, but the 
 time may be near at hand when I shall not be able to do so 
 any more. I may be killed to-night, or I may not be strong 
 enough to fight much longer. Whatever happens, remain 
 together ; listen to Igala, your chief, and do not throw away 
 my Journals.* Even if you have to throw away everything 
 else, do not throw them away, but deliver them into the 
 hands of the white men on the coast." 
 
 My men clung close round me as I spoke, and all, with 
 voices full of love, said, " Chaillie, you are not to die I You 
 are not to die ! We will bring you alive to our people ! 
 You shall always be with us." I answered, in a laughing 
 tone, in order to cheer them up ; "I do not say I am to die 
 to-night ; but only that I might die. Don't you know that 
 Chaillie knows how to fight?" They all said, " Yes, yes ; 
 and we also know how tu fight — we are men ! " We then 
 shouldered our bundles and guns, and struggled through the 
 entangled thicket, tearing ourselves with thorns, into the 
 path, and thence to the village street. We here paused, and 
 called each other in a low voice to make sure we were all 
 together ; for it was so intensely dark that we could not see 
 a yard before us. It was necessary to guard against a 
 possible ambush, for the villagers must have been aware 
 that we were near their place, and they knew that we could 
 not venture to travel except along the main path of the 
 country, which passed through their village. We then 
 stepped forward, like desperate men. We took the middle 
 of the street, which was a very long one, treading cautiously, 
 with our guns cocked, and ready at the slightest warning. 
 At one house we heard people playing the native harp 
 inside; we crossed lightly to the opposite side of the street, 
 and passed without having alarmed the inmates. We then 
 came near the end of the street, and were thinking that all 
 danger was passed, when suddenly a bright fire blazed up 
 
 * One of the volumes of the journal, together with my route-maps, 
 numerous notes, and two copies of nstronomical and meteorological 
 observations, bad already been lost iu the retreat. 
 
472 EQUATORIAL AFBIOA. Chaf. XXXVIII. 
 
 right before us ! As we stood motionless waiting for the 
 next move, a kind voice spoke out in the darkness — " It is 
 tlie Oguizi's people; go on ! go on ! there is no harm t(j you 
 in my village ; pass on ! you will find the path smooth ; 
 there is no war for you ! " It was the voice of the old king, 
 who was thus, with some of his people, waiting ojir passage, 
 with the good intention of speeding us on with kind words. 
 
 On we went in the darkness of the night ; through 
 Kwamps and water-courses, over stony hills and thorny 
 biakes, often losing the path, and wandering about for some 
 time before finding it again. At about three o'clock in the 
 morning we came to a field of cassava. We halted, made a 
 fire, gathered some of the roots, and roasted them to eat, for 
 we had had no food since our flight began the preceding 
 morning, and were quite worn out with fatigue and hunger. 
 This renewed our strength, and I offered up a silent prayer 
 to that gracious Providence who had so marvellously 
 preserved my little band. 
 
 July 27th. A little before daylight (as soon as we could 
 see our way through the forest), we resumed our march, 
 Igala limping along with his lame leg, and I marching among 
 the men encouraging them with hopeful words. After going 
 a short distance we came to a place where two paths diverged, 
 and a dispute arose amongst my men as to which was the 
 right way. Eebouka, who was now leading us, fixed upon 
 one way as the right one, and Ngoma declared the other was 
 the proper path ; he knew it, he said, by a monkey trap by 
 the side of the road, which we had passed on coming to 
 Niembouai Olomba. The majority declared in favour of 
 Eebouka, and so we took his path 
 
 We continued on this road till midday, when it was 
 necessary to halt and make a search for something to eat, 
 for we were all ravenous with hunger. Some of the men 
 dispersed on foraging expeditions, and two of them soon 
 returned successful, having found a small grove of plantains 
 from which they gathered several bunches. We made a fire 
 on the margin of a pretty rivulet under the shade of trees, 
 and cooked and ate our meal. Soon after, having resumed our 
 onward march, we arrived at a small village surrounded by 
 
Chap. XXXVIII. A FRIEND IN NEED. 473 
 
 plantains, which we knew at once we had not seen on our 
 outward journey. Ngoma was now triumphant, and Eebouka 
 and his followers discomfited. I was obliged to interfere 
 to put an end to their dispute, and we then boldly walked 
 into the village and spoke to the people. 
 
 The place proved to be a plantation of one of the head men 
 of Niemboiiai Olomba, next in influence to the king. He 
 was a fine old fellow, with snow-white hair, and with that 
 genial expression of features which is often seen in negroes 
 of a better sort. He received us with great kindness, inviting 
 us to stay and eat something; and, on our accepting his 
 offer, ordered his women to cook us a fowl and some plan- 
 tains. The women gave my men sugar-cane and mpegui 
 nuts, and the old man apologized for not having a goat to 
 offer us. 
 
 The people of the village naturally asked us why we h;id 
 returned so soon. My men were not behindhand in satisfying 
 their curiosity ; but they took care to conceal the fact that 
 we were the aggressors, though through no ill-intention on 
 our part. They said we had been attacked, and had had to 
 fight our way back. Each of them boasted of bis own feats 
 and prowess, saying how many of the warriors of Mouaou 
 Kombo he had beaten off. 
 
 Whilst we were thus engaged, our old guide Magouga 
 came in. The arrival of this faithful old man was most 
 fortunate for us. He proved himself to be a real friend in 
 need. He had heard, when he got up in the morning at 
 Niembouai, that we had passed in the middle of the night, 
 and had immediately set off to overtake us. He must have 
 walked very fast. He seemed overjoyed to see us, and said 
 he had returned to Niembouai Olomba from Mobana, in- 
 tending to remain until he had heard of our safe passage 
 through the Njavi country ; for he had anticipated that we 
 should have great difficulties with the people of Upper 
 Ashangoland, who were a bad set. Magouga seemed not to 
 have heard a correct account of the Mouaou affair. All he 
 knew was that the people had driven us away, and that we 
 had killed many of their warriors. He told us that one of 
 the men shot by Igala was the head warrior of Mobana, and 
 
474 EQUATOEIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVIII. 
 
 that this was likely to be made a casus belli between the 
 Mobana villagers and the people of Mouaou Kombo, who 
 were held to be the cause of the death. The Mobanas were 
 already cooking the " war dish " in order to march against 
 the village of Mouaou Kombo. 
 
 The "war dish" is the pot of magic herbs and fetiches 
 which is cooked with a great deal of mystery and ceremony 
 on the eve of going to meet an enemy. The mess is cooked 
 in a very large vessel, and the affair is presided over, as a 
 matter of course, by the most renowned fetich doctor of the 
 tribe. So soon as the cooking is completed, the warriors 
 swallow part of the contents of the ve.ssel, and smear their 
 bodies over with the rest ; when they have succeeded in 
 exciting themselves to the requisite pitch, they rush forth to 
 attack the village they intend to assault. 
 
 It was evident from the confused statements of Magouga 
 that the country was all in a ferment behind us. He said 
 the Mouaou people had abandoned their village and retired 
 to the forest, fearing lest I should return and burn it. They 
 said all the arrows they had shot at me would not pierce me, 
 but had rebounded from my flesh ; and they were filled with 
 superstitious fears of the power of so mysterious a being I 
 must here add that my men and myself kept the fact of my 
 having been wounded a secret from all the negroes on our 
 homeward march; my men knew as well as myself how 
 important it was that I should maintain the reputation of 
 being invulnerable; and it was universally believed that 
 the arrows of the Ashangos glanced from my body without 
 hurting me. Magouga said he had heard that at one time I 
 had turned myself into a leopard, and hid myself in a tree, 
 and had sprung upon the Mouaou people as they came to 
 make war on my men ; that at other times I turned myself 
 into a gorilla, or into an elephant, and stnick terror and death 
 among the Mouaou and Mobana warriors. Magouga finished 
 his story by asking me for a " war fetich," for he said I must 
 possess the art of making fetiches, or I and my men could 
 act have escaped so miraculously. 
 
 After a good rest and a hearty meal we left the good old 
 chief of the plantation-village, and continued our homeward 
 
Chap. XXXVIII. CONCLUSION. 475 
 
 march, now under the guidance of Magouga. On parting I 
 gave the old chief a quantity of beads out of our remaining 
 stock, and also a red powder fiask, which latter present 
 delighted him beyond measure, and he said he would keep it 
 in remembrance of me. 
 
 August bill. We left Igouinbie to-day, to the great sorrow 
 of the villagers, who wished me to stay longer with them. 
 
 The Ishogos are the kindest-hearted and the gentlest 
 negroes I ever met with. As soon as my men had shouldered 
 their otaiais, and the people ^aw that we were ready to start, 
 the whole population came out. This time we had to pass 
 through the whole length of the village. They followed 
 behind us — the women were the most conspicuous. They all 
 shouted out, " Go on well, go on well ; nothing bad shall 
 happen to you ! " When we reached the end of the village, 
 aiid just before turning into the path that would take us out 
 of their sight, I turned round, and, taking off the remnant 
 of what was once a good Panama hat, I waved it in the air. 
 Immediately a dead silence succeeded to the noise, and 1 
 shouted, " Farewell, good Ishogos ! " As I disappeared from 
 their view among the trees of the forest we were entering, 
 suddenly a wild and sorrowful shout of the multitude reached 
 our ears. They all cried out with one voice, " We shall see 
 the good Oguizi no more ! We shall see the good Oguizi no 
 more ! " Then all became again silent, and once more we 
 trod the path of this gigantic forest on our way to the sea- 
 shore, traversing, but without any guide, the same countries 
 through which we had passed on our way to the interior. 
 * *- * *- * * 
 
 On reaching Quengueza's encampment on the river Oven ga 
 we were received with a most hearty welcome ; the loyal old 
 chief hugged me to his breast, and I am sure I reciprocated 
 the joy he felt at our meeting. He beat his kendo, and, in a 
 kind of solemn chant, thanked the spirits of his ancestors, 
 whom he had invoked when I left Goumbi with him for the 
 Ashira country, for my safe arrival. 
 
476 EQUATORIAL AFRICA. Chap. XXXVTTT. 
 
 In September, 1866, I quitted the shores of Western 
 Equatorial Africa for the last time with many regrets, leaving 
 behind me many kind friends and bearing away with me 
 many warm remembrances.