TT 8-73 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 067 91 218 ~^'^-^'^^^^'^^^''i ^'i ^^^' ^^'^^^'■'>^^^^^^'i'■v^'■^^'^'■^^^^^ ^'■^■-'- ^> «<>^^ ^ ^'^ ^V■ ^^ ■.^ ^ ■ - tt ^v ^ /\/£\A/lomO/\/ to/v^. | ■»^■ .,■^ . ^ ^<<. ; «p ^»■ ^ ^^ v^ ^^^^ ■ ^^ ■ ^,^:< ' :^.■7g^■^■^■^^T':^'j^■gggss^ f.'i\:«. BOOKS we publish ori--^ . . Knitting, Crocheting and Embroiilering. 1. ART NEEDLEWORK BOOK is a book devoted lo the general subject of fancy work. It contains nS pages about fiq^uallydivliied upon the themes of Knitting, Crocheting and Embroidering. SeKt for ioc. or for io HOLDBRS AND 4c. FOR MAlilKa. ' 2. pOYLEY AND CENTREPIECE BOOK is devoted entirely to the subject of Embroidery. It has chapters on Embroidery Stitches, Centrepieces, Doyleys, Ideal Honifon, Luncheon and Tea Clctths, Cut Work, Table .Spreads jn Denim and Jewel Embroidery. Sent for ioc. or for 10 Holders AND 4C. FOR MAILING. 3. CROCHET BOOKLE T deals with crocaet&lg. It gjves directions for cro ^">p ShiuJes, ,.. e'Cj [G. .' ■■' ,/■' ■*•■ BLU: ~^,.., .,^^, . „„, ™,^.„v ., proper shadts" ; ,tot prg. Pmaj$ ^. IIMwtt feiMTPOR^c.. 5. JEWEL BOOK, *hiQh treats the subject of Jewel Embroidery, tellingr how the work is done apd what shades of silk a- e used. It shows engraved illustrations of six patterns and gives plain directibns for working each.' SENT FOli iSc. OR FOR 6 HOLDERS AND 3c. FOR MAILING. 6. DELFT BOOK deals with the subject of Delft Embroidery. It explaitis the character o^tlie work and enumerates the true Delft shades. It shows our Delft patterns and no embroiderer can read the book without a desire to > undertake this simple and beautiful work. SENT FOR 6c. OR FOR^ HOLDERS.AND 3c. FOR MAILING. ; . 7. ROSE BOOK IS devoted to Flower Embroidery and particularly tp tke embroidering of Roses. It has illustrations of our beautiful 602 line of RoseDesignsand tells definitely how these Rose Designs shou'd be workied. ' SENT FOR 6c. OR FOR 6 HOLDERS AND 3c. f6R MAILING^ 8. BOHEMIAN GLASS BOO!K shows our new Bohemian Glass Design series of patterns 606-A, B and C. It also has illustrations of four beautifiil Ten Cloths, with full directions for working. SENT FOR 6c. OR FOR 6 HOLDERS AND 3c. FOR MAILING. 9. CHAFING DISH BOOK has etigravings of a beautiful set of linens, to U(ie 1 :wUh th^ CBafifig Dish. SENT FOR 4c. OR FOR 4 HOLDERS AND 3c We Will i^eitd these books io any address upon receipt of the proper remittance. THE BRAINERD & ARHSTRONQ SILK CO., ^,, . 99 UNION STREET, NEW LONDON, CONN. UkikUikUUikUlklklUHkiikkUlkiL kkiiikikikikUft THE MOST UP TO DATE BOOK' 1 TTTTTTTT -ON- Table Adornment and Popular Fancy Work-^S Doyley ands Centrepiece Book. The Brainerd & Armstrong Co. * -OFFICE5 841 Broadway, New York. 621 narket Street, Philadelphia. 120 Kingston Street, Boston, Hass. 5 Hanover Street, Baltimore, Md. . .,., fc . .,. ALBERT fi. MANN| PRINCtPAL FACTORIES, NEW LONDoIjI^KAKY inTTnTTWTT r TnTTTTnTTTTTTnmTTTTTTTnTTTTnTmmmnTTTmnTTnyTTTTTTTnTTTTTTnffi We Wish All Ladies Who Teach Art Needlework, Also all dealers in Art Embroidery materials, especially those who in summer visit mountain and seashore resorts, and those who go south in winter, would correspond with us, (provided there are any such who do not already use our silks altogether) in regard to Embroidery Silks and Fabrics. We think we know nearly all who travel in this way and they, without exception, use our silks. They find their business increases steadily and are kind enough to say it is largely because our silks are always reliable. Their customers know our silk and, as soon as they know the articles offered are embridered with our goods, they know the colors are absolutely fast, and do not hesitate to buy. When you write us for catalogue, prices, etc., please address The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 84 1 Broadway, New York City, or 621 Market St., Philadelphia. 120 Kingston St., Boston, Mass. 5 Hanover St., Baltimore, Md. INDEX. * ^ 'P'^'^ — I. Embroidery or Needle Painting, . . 3 II. S ome Helps in Embroidery, ... 7 III. Embroidery Stitches — Kensington, . . o IV. Centrepieces, ..... 22 V. Doyleys — Round and Oval Doyleys — Square Doyleys — Bowl and Small Dish Doyleys, . . 33 VI. Ideal Honiton Work, .... 44 VII. Tea and Luncheon Cloths, . . . 51 VIII. Jewel Embroidery, .... 62 IX. Directions for Cut Work, ... 68 X. Table Spreads in Denim,. . . . yi XI. Some Useful Articles Embroidered in Black, . 74 XII. List of Patterns and Stamped Linens, . 81 INTRODUCTORY. THE popularity of our previous publications on embroidery mat- ters, the ever increasing interest in the art of embroidery and, most of all, the solicitations of our friends, have convinced us that the time is appropriate for the publication of a book w^hich shall deal largely with the subject of Luncheon Cloths, Centrepieces, Doyleys and such kindred work as contributes to the highest .form of table adornment. In the preparation of our " Doyley and Centrepiece Book" it has been our purpose to introduce such a range of patterns that it may be welcomed by the experienced worker, and at the same time to present designs and directions of such simplicity that the beginner need not hesitate to attempt them. The materials, colors and stitches which are suggested in con- nection with each of the various designs ^ave been selected by embroid- erers of acknowledged reputation, and can be relied upon to profluce artistic and harmonious effects. In all cases Brainerd & Armstrong's Wash Silks are to be used in order to meet with success in following the instructions given in this book. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO. Embuoideiry or Keedle Painting. •••••• {■' ONCLUSIVE evidence exists that the decoration of textile fabrics by the aid of the needle has been practiced from the very earliest ages. In the directions given for the construction of the Tabernacle, hangings for the doors "of blue, and purple, and scarlet, and fine twined linen wrought with needlework," are especially named in Exodus xxvi : 36 ; and the garments of Aaron and his sons were to be for glory and beauty, "similarly adorned." From these early times, down through the Middle Ages, when, as Shakespeare w^rites of Marina, — " Or when she would with sharp needle wound The cambric which she makes more sound by hurting it, And with her needle composes Nature's own shapes of bud, bird, branch or berry,'' women have been artists with the needle. In recent years the art of embroidery has made w^onderful progress, and is still on the increase. It has commanded the attention of artists and won the respect and admiration of the most cultivated people. It has created a demand for new fabrics ; and as it is now carried out in this coun- try, the art of embroidery is practically the art of stitchery. The first requisite for' good work, is good material. The best worker cannot do herself justice if compelled to use a silk whch splits or frays in spite of all her care ; or one whose lustre is quickly lost, — notwithstanding the most careful handling, — rendering 4 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S her work dull and lifeless, even before it is completed. The best is the cheapest. An inferior silk is not economical at any price. It is much better economy to pay a little higher price in order to have a silk which will not run in washing, and render practically worthless a piece of work upon which has been expended that which is more valuable than money, — time and patience. In purchasing, the "Asiatic Dye " Wash silks, manufactured by The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., the embroiderer can be certain that the, colors are absolutely fast, as they have stood the test of many years. The particular thread to be selected depends largely on the character of the work and the artistic effects to be produced. It is our intention to describe these different embroidery threads, and to enumerate some of the ways in which they may be used to he best advantage. "Asiatic" Filo is the most useful thread for flower embroidery • -' the silk par excellence for working table linen. It is finer, than any other of the embroidery threads, and for this reason gives a larger range to the skillful worker to produce the most harmonious shadings and artistic effects. It is especially adapted for small floral designs on fine linen and is popular for very fine work with Honiton braids. We call attention to the following points to be observed in its use : (a; Nkedi.e. It is a common mistake to use a needle with a long eye, which is intended more for crewels than for silks j the long eye permitting the silk to slip about, thus roughening its delicate texture. Generally speaking, the ordinary sewing needle, No. 8, will be found right for heavy linen, and No. 7 for lawns, sheer goods or any kind of bolting cloth, (b) Threading. If a double strand is required, do not thread the needle with two strands, but take one strand and double it by drawing the needle to its central point and knotting the ends. A little thought will show that in the first case the loose ends are apt to knot and tangle, to the great detriment of not only the silk but also of the material, (c) Holding Needle. Do not grasp the needle too tightly. Hold it firmly between thumb and forefinger, and do not hold the thread at all. (d) Needles for Shading. In using two or three different shades, keep on hand needles threaded with each. This will greatly expedite the work. "Asiatic Roman" Floss i^ similar to "Asiatic" Filo, but much heavier. Its slight twist is just right to give a fine effect without costing the labor of the DO Y LEY AND CERTREPIECE BOOK. finest work ; it is designed to be used without dividing, and consequently the work develops rapidly and very rich, striking effects are produced. A remarka- ble quality of the thread is its pliability ; in fact this is characteristic of all The Brainerd & Armstrong Silk Co.'s threads. The fabrics best adapted to em- broidery with this thread are linens of the heavier grade and such fabrics as ai-e generally chosen for larger pieces, as table covers, sofa cushions and bedspreads. •'Asiatic Honiton Lace " Sillc is a new thread especially designed for use with lace braids. It produces beautiful effects in other lines of work, but reaches the highest degree of art when used in butlon-holing the delicate braids and in the further elaboration of the now popular Ideal Honiton work. It moves through fine linen and the lace with perfect ease without becoming roughened and without drawing the threads of the ground material. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery is more tightly twisted than Roman Floss and contains more than twice the quantity of silk in a single thread. Its strength and durability render it invaluable in the decoration of articles for gen- eral use and it is applied in more various ways than any other of the threads. It is specially adapted to button-holing and working edges, as well as very desirable in ecclesiastical work and the working of flannels and soft woolen goods. "Asiatic " Rope Silk is used for larger and bolder work than any thread yet mentioned. It is like "Asiatic Roman " Floss in quality and finish, differ- ing only in the quantity of silk composing the thread. It is indispensible in decorating draperies, portieres, panels and screens, and can be employed in all the stitches mentioned for the other threads. "Asiatic Art Rope" Silk is a new thread similar to Rope, but a trifle harder twisted. It is particularly suited to pronounced work on Terry or Denim and meets all requirements of a heavy silk with a tight twist. "Asiatic" Outline Embroidery is similar to the Honiton Lace Silk, soft twisted and of beautiful finish. It is almost exclusively used in outlining initials and other forms of lettering, but it is by no means limited to this style of work. It c'ombines well with the other threads and is much used in lace work. "Asiatic Medteval " Embroidery is similar to "Asiatic" Twisted, but coarser and heavier. It reminds one of the rich, ornate style used in the temple and palace decorations of the Middle Ages. It may be worked on Terry and similar heavy stuffs or portieres, table cloths, screens and large pillows. "Asiatic" Couching Silk is our largest twisted thread and is alwajrs efiective in very heavy, solid and outline work. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S Ii^ tlie AboVe List. of our " Asiatic Dye " Wash Silks can be found some thread perfectly suited to every known form and minute detail of needle embroidery which is practiced at the present day. If the worker is persuaded into buying some inferior silk by her dealer, and if the colors run and she makes a failure of her w^ork, she cannot avail heiself of the excuse that the proper thread for her work could not have been found in our list of Wash Silks, every one of which we guarantee to stand washing according to directions, and which has already stood the test of years. Sometimes a lady finds that a dealer has mixed a few skeins of some other silk with the skeins of our manufacture which were ordered. Perhaps he does this because he can make more profit on an inferior grade ; perhaps because the exact shades were missing in his line of our goods ; but in either case the lady has a perfect right to return the unknown silks and to insist that her dealer send her no silk except that which has the name, The Brainerd & Armstrong Silk Co., printed in a prominent position on the tag. Some other dealer is pretty sure to have the shade she desires, but in case the lady is still unable to obtain the shades of our silk desired and if her dealer will not get them for her, she may then, send the proper amount to us and we will see that her order is promptly filled the day it is received by one of our city stores. Some Helps in En^biToideuii^j Our "Art Needlework " Book. Is our largest book on Art Needlework. There are over 1 20 pages on Embroidery, Mountmellick Work, Crocheting, Knitting, &c., with over 75 engraved illustrations. It is all that an experienced worker in silks could wish, but the directions are so plain that a beginner in this facinating work need not fear to attempt them. Sent Postpaid to any ".ddress for 10 cents in stamps, or for 10 empty Holders and 4 cents in stamps to cover postage and wrapping. Our New "Blue Book." The object of this book is to render easy the selection of those colors which will produce the best effect and give the closet repre- sentation in copying nature. Many ladies do not attempt embroidery in colors because they do not have what is sometimes called ' ' an eye for color," and knowing their own limitations, dare not attempt to match the shades or to select colors in which to work a flower, even though it be one with which they are familiar. This little book overcomes this difficulty by giving the exact colors of silk to be used in embroidering over eighty (80) different flowers, leaves and fruits. Sweet Peas, Trailing Arbutus, Trumpet Vines, Roses, Violets — almost everything in the floral world has its color exactly represented in fast colored silks of the best texture for embroidery. Sent to any address for 4 cents in stamps, or for 4 Holders and a 2-cent stamp to cover postage and wrapping. 8 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK GO'S. Our New Shade Card. This card shows all the numbers mentioned in the " Blue Book" as well as the whole 300 different shades in which the "Asiatic Dye" Wash Silks are now being dyed. It enables one to order intelligently by number and furnishes samples of our silk, representing a variety of kinds differing from each other in twist and size. Sent to any address on receipt of lo cents in stamps, or for 20 empty Holders and 4 cents in stamps to cover postage and wrapping. Our New Catalogue. Our catalogue gives a full list of our silks. It describes minutely the individual threads and the purposes for which they are adapted. In a word, it gives much information which is an aid in purchasing and using our silks intelligently. Sent to any address for a stamp, or sent postpaid for two empty Holders. Have you seen our New ^^^_Patent Silk Thread Holder? t The most experienced among needle-workers have always found it difficult to prevent fine flosses from roughing and snarl- ing. The new Patent Thread Holder, of which the Brainerd & Armstrong Co. holds the exclusive patent, solves this problem for all time. It keeps the thread from becoming tangled ; the silk is not exposed to rough surfaces; the last thread drawn from the holder is in as good condition for use as the first. Many ladies who have had silk in the new holder write us that they will hereafter buy silks in no other form. •J Illh.stuated Kn^buoideuy Stitches^ VERY lover of needlework will appreciate the pains and expense incurred to get explanations, drawings and engravings to illustrate the follow- ing stitches used in embroidery. By reading carefully the directions, and obseiT- ing the drawings opposite, any one may be able to understand and make them. Outline Stitch consists of a long stitch forward on the face of the material, arid a very short stitch back on the under side. This is also called cording stitch, or STEM syiTCH. When the needle is brought up tbrougb the preceding stitch, instead of beside it, the work be- comes SPLIT STITCH. Chain Stitch is made by bringing the needle through a loop of the silk, each loop forming a link like a chain. CHAIN STITCH. Brier, Feather or Coral Stitch, of several varie- ties, is made by bringing the needle out over a loop of the silk, each loop forming a branch. OUTLINE STITCH, OR STEM STITCH. BRIER, FKATHER OR CORAL STITCH. FRENCH KNOT. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S ILLUSTRATED EnBROIDERY STITCHES. French Knot is made by twisting the needle once or twice around the thread, passing the needle straight down through the material, and drawing the knot tight. Bullion, Wound or Point de Minute 5titch is formed by coiling thread tightly around the needle, drawing the needle and thread through the coil out for the desired length, then passing needle down through the material to hold the coil in place. BULLION, OR POINT DE MINUTE. SATIN STITCH. Satin stitch consists of regular long stitchesi closely laid together to represent a smooth, raised, satin-like effect. Queen Anne, or Weaving Stitch, is a regular, fine darning. Darning, of various kinds, is now largely used i.i embroidery, principally in.backgrounds. qUEEN ANNE, OR DARN- ING. CATALOGUE OF EMBROIDERY STITCHES. ILLUSTRATED EriBROIDERY STITCHES. Kensington Filllng-In Stitch is an irregular kind of SATIN stitch. .KENSINGTON FILLING- IN. Bird's-Eye is a sort of chain stitch, from a cen- tral point, the loop caught down by a short stitch. bird S-EYE. Beading Stitch is a loop or knot, formed over the s-i principal thread. BEADING. Laid Stem Stitch is similar to satin stitch, or OVERCAST STITCH, but IS worked over an outline, giv- ing it a raised effect. LAID STEM STITCH, OR OVERCAST. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S ILLUSTRATED EMBROIDERY STITCHES. Twisted Stitch. — One thread is twisted around another, and the two held in place by invisible stitches. TWISTED. Buttonhole Stitch, or Scallop Stitch, is that bordering stitch seen in the edges of ordinary flannel ^ embroidery. BUTTONHOLE STITCH, OR SCALLOP STITCH. Ladder Stitch. — The outlines are first traced, the edges worked in buttonhole stitch, the rounds of the ladder in overcast or over-seam stitch, and the material between the rounds of the ladder cut away. LADUtR bllTCH. Janina Stitch resembles a broad cross-stitch.. janina. CATALOGUE OF EMBROIDERY STITCHES. "3 ILLUSTRATED EflBROIDERY STITCHES. Couching consists in laying down one or more cords, and securing them hy regular stitches. When one fine thread is used in place of a cord, the -work is called tracing, or tracing-stitch. COUCHING. Italian, or Holbein Stitcties, are perpendicular, horizontal, or diagonal short stitches, suitable for can- vas embroidery. ^^ 'I r/ ITALIAN OR HOLBEIN r^MTl^ : Point Russe consists of any number or order of artistically disposed long stitches. . POINT DE RUSSE. Dot Stitcll is a mere point, also called seed stitch, used for light filling-in. It is made like an ordinary back stitch, except that the needle is not put back to the place from which it is drawn out, but an interval about the length of a stitch remains unworked. Plusll Stitch, consists in couching pieces of silk upon the material by one invisible stitch in the centre of each piece, and raising the ends up like the pile of plush or velvet, trimming the top smooth, if necessary. NEW STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY. A NUMBER of new stitches have recently made their appearance in art embroidery. They are not, strictly speaking, new, but are, in reality, old ones revived. Their adaptation, how^ever, is new. Aniong the stitches newly adapted are the following : Qobelin Stitch is one copied from old tapes- tries. It is a filling stitch but it differs from Kensing- ton FILLING IN, being strictly regular instead of irregu- lar. It is worked somewhat like satin or laid stitch, but it need not necessarily be so close ; it is rather a system than a stitch and is not used for thin leaves and stems where satin stitch proper would be allowable. Gobelin STITCH takes the form of long straight lines — whether these lines are perpendicular, diagonal or horizontal, all used in the same pattern must be parallel to each other, so far as possible. The completed work often shows a series of stripes or blocks of exactly the same width, so far as the pattern will allow. Gobelin stItch is used to fill large leaves, arabesques and backgrounds in conventional' patterns. Ismit Stitch is one borrowed from Turkish em- broideries. It is used to fill long leaves and petals and is generally seen in conventional roses. It is a bi-oad CAT STITCH, adapted to the shape of the petal. It some- what resembles Janina, but is looser, not giving the effect of a vein down the middle as Janina does. To work isMiT STITCH, begin at the tip of the petal and work {roin you. ISMIT STICK. GOBELIN STITCH. CATALOGUE OF LATEST STITCHES. IS Bulgarian Stitch is a system borrowed from the Oriental embroideries which are ex- ecuted in the finest silks. It may be described as an artistic combination of back stitch and OUTLINE. The stitches, of course, are not of the same length, but adapt themselveo to the curves of the pattern. Bulgaria>t differs from ordinary outline in that it gives the effect of satin stitch or Kensington Bulgarian stitch. FILLING, and it differs from these in that it always proceeds along the length ut the pattern, never diagonally nor crosswise. Darning, of the kind commonly known as "running," is now largely used in deco- rative needlework. It is now the practice to outline a spray of flowers with one pale tint, and let the foundation-material itself constitute the filling. The background is then made by running in threads of bright color. The darning itself is simple enough, DARNING. ^jjjj. j{ j„ay jjg made as effective as one chooses. The stitches may be of regular or irregular lengths— they may form regular rows and patterns, or be as fantastically disposed as desired. One color may be used or half a dozen. Tapestry effects may be copied, and, in some cases, water, sky or grass suggested. The straight lines of gobelin filling stitch, described above, may be imitated in darning. If it is desired to use i-unning stitches in the pattern and not in the back- ground, the horizontal lines may appear only on the outline, giving the effect of what is generally known as HALF-SOLID KENSINGTON. Half-solid Kensington. As will be seen by the illustration, half-solid Kensington is done in the regular SATIN or FILLING stitch. If a similar effect is to be brought out with running stitches, of course all the lines will be either horizontal or perpendicular, to correspond with the threads of the material. One color, half-solid Kensington i6 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S BRICK COUCHING. or at most a few, is all that can be employed — the proper colors must come to the surface in the proper places, the greater part being kept underneath. If desired a different color may be run in for a background. Brick Couching is derived from old ecclesiastical embroideries. It differs from ordinary couching in that the threads are sewed down so as to form a regular pattern like brick-work. It may be varied by taking two or more threads at a time, or by placing several crossing threads in one group. Brick couching is particularly suitable for rope-silk embroidery. Gold cord was the material orig- inally used. Brick couching is not the same as brick stitch, of which an example is here given. Brick Stitcli is in reality a system of running or darning. First run a row of stitches of the same length, with a space of the same length between each two stitches. Then run another row in the same line, so that the stitches will come in the spaces left vacant. Make a number of rows in the same way, keeping all the rows the same distance apart. These constitute the horizontal lines of the brick-work. Now run in the perpendicular lines, seemg that they alternate properly. One perpendicu- lar aVays runs from the middle of one brick to the space between the two above it. Of course, in running the horizontal lines, care must be taken to have the stitches alternate, the space between two coming oppo- site the middle of another. Brick stitch is suitable for filling large leaves in conventional designs. Rope silk may be used for the purpose. BRICK stitch. POINT DE BRUXELLES. Point de Bruxelles. What some call brick, BASKET or BOX STITCH is in reality an old point-lace stitch— Point de Bruxelles, or Brussels Point. It is simply a loose buttonhole stitch. The loops may be drawn into various CATALOGUE OF LATEST STITCHES. 17 shapes as desired. Point de bruxelles is not the only lace stitch now intro- duced into art needlework, as «rill be seen from the following : Point de Feston. This will be easily recognized by those who are familiar with antique lace, or as it should be called, Guipure d'Art. This kind of lace is made on a coarse netting composed of squai-es, upon which are worked the lace stitches. Point de festok is a triangular mass worked across the corner of a square. It con- POINT DE FESTON. • 4. j: ■ ^ ^ j j, j: , sists of a series of loops around the founda- tion thread, the netting being turned from side to side in working, so as to form a woven leaf somewhat as in ismit stitch. Begin in the corner of the square, throw the thread irotn you towards the left, pass the needle under the perpendic- ular thread and up again between the floating thread and the corner ; draw close and then turn the work sidewise ; do the same over the horizontal thread. Repeat alternately. The netting upon which Guipure d'Art is made is generally called Slet. To make such a netting with the needle constitutes the lace stitch known as Point DE Filet. Backgrounds and leaves are now sometimes filled with a needle- work imitation of Point de Filet, as seen in illustration. Upon this is then executed the Point de Feston A regular, close darning or weaving of the kind now generally called Queen Anne is like the lace stitch known as Point de ToiLE — only in this but one thread is used. Besides point-lace stitches. Crochet Stitches are often introduced into embroidery. A series of single crochet stitches very readily imitate close buttonhole stitch. Sometimes these are worked over brass rings or stout cords, and then fastened to a pattern like appliqud figures. Petals are frequently worked sepa- rately in double crochet, and then applied. A simple row of picots, loops or chains sometimes constitutes a a very effective edging. Cat Stitch. With this issue, we present our read- ers with a better illustration of old-fashioned cat- ^. , ^ cat stitch. STITCH than ever before. i8 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S Border Stitch. Also a variety of cat stitch, known as border stitch. In cat stitch, work Jrota you; in border stitch, toward you. Both of these stitches are sometimes called herring-bone. > border stitch. Herring-Bone. Another kind of herring-bone is made in much the same way as brier, coral or feather stitch, which only differ a little in the number of branches and the slant of the needle. herring-bone. Single Brier Stitch, which may be known by its regular slant. Otherwise it is not very different from loose buttonhole stitch or point de bruxelles. single brier stitch. Double Chain. This may be recommended as the most elegant edging for applique figures. Work two rows of plain chain stitch, then take a third thread and lace the two rows together by their inner edges. double chain. CATALOGUE OF LATEST STITCHES. 19 Persian Stitch resembles cat, janina or ismit, but differs from alV these in that three threads are car- ried by the needle at once, and the crossings overlap each other, the needle always coming up at the edge in the opening between two stitches previously taken. When finished a row of Persian embroidery looks like a band of braid. PERSIAN STITCH. Roman Stitcll is a mode of filling a leaf, and at the same time forming a vein down the center. The stitches are like laid or satin stitch, but they are caught down in the center as in couching. Begin at the tip of the leaf on the left side, lay the thread across to the right. Put the needle down, bring it up in the middle of the leaf, between yourself and the laid thread ; put the needle down again, from you and over the laid thread ; bring it up again beside the point at which it first came up at the beginning and proceed as before. ROMAN STITCH. Leviathan Stitch. This is one of the old tapestry filling stitches. It is really a double cross stitch. When made much larger, it constitutes star stitch. LEVIATHAN STITCH. M> THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S Solid Embroidery or Kensin^on. This embroidery may be done either in the hand or in a frame. Coramenc the work at the stem. Do not make a knot in jour silk, but run the thread from a little way above the end of the stem ; then work upward in a short outline or stem stitch. After the outline has been made with stem stitch and the center Ime and veins put in, fill each half of the leaf separately, in sections. Begin at the base and follow the outline only to the point indicated by the first vein, always keeping the thread at the right of the needle; work back again to the base, reversihg the thread. The length of all stitches in solid embroidery should be proportioned to the size of the leaf or flower , if the stitches are too short the *ork wall look rough and uneven; if too long, it will look too thin. In the CATALOGUE OF EMBROIDERY STITCHES. division line between the shades, the edges of each Should be left uneven and ragged, in order that the stitches of each color may be thoroughly blended and no distinct line between the shades may appear. The flower is worked on the same principle as the leaves, alternate short and long stitches, running always from the center to the outer edge. The edge is so broad in proportion to the center, the latter being usually a mere point, that a great many short lines and extra stitches will be required to shade the petals correctly. An amateur is apt to fail just here. Supposing the edge to be light, and the center dark, the worker will probably make all her lines of the same length, or she will have a regular alternation of long and short lines. The good worker, on the other hand, will scarcely make two lines of the same length, and while making the edge perfectly smooth and solid, will leave spaces toward the center — the more irregular the better. Then choosing for her second shade one but little darker than the first, she will blend the two, by means of the irregular spaces, so intimately that one can scarcely tell where one begins and the other ends, except that the center is darker than the edge. If the center is to be much darker than the edge, use several shades, passing gi-adually from one tint to another until the desired tone is reached ; but never, unless working autumn leaves, pass abruptly from dark to light. Some find it easier to work from the center abruptly from dark to light. Some find it easier to work from the center toward the edge. Except in flowers with very large centers, as daisies and sun- flowers, it is best not to leave any opening, but fill the whole space and put the French knots, which constitute the usual center, on the top. These rules for shading apply equally well to leaves. Avoid a light, whiteish streak down the side of a leaf, but blend the tints gradually. The proper arrangement of color is of far greater importance than the regular placing of stitches, and no embroidery can be artistic without it. Centuepieces> ERHAPS no piece of embroidered table Irnen will appeal more strongly to the average housekeeper than the centrepiece. In its elaboration the needlewoman may allow her fancy free rein, knowing that the centerpiece will be observed by all observers. In shape the centrepiece may be round, oval, rectangular — any shape, in fact, which will suit the dining table. The material is most always linen. For a square lunch center, eighteen inches, or 20 x 24 inches, is a suitable size. As with all table linen, the hemstitched hem, or cut work edge, is the most satisfactory in the long run. Fringes will mat and look untidy, and comting only results in a generally ragged appearance. Hemstitch a two-inch hem, or work a cut edge in even buttonhole or long and short stitch. The next step is the ornamentation, and let the worker remember that upon this depends the success of her work. Having chosen a suitable linen, and the "Asiatic Dye " embroid- ery silks, which are the best wash silks procurable, the workwoman- ship must not fall below the standard. For a beginner, it is best to start with some dainty, sketchy pattern having much outline. As for instance, a lattice design, dotted here and there with tiny flowers. Selecting carefully several shades of a single color, which contrasts with the flower color, the design may be made really artistic by mingling the shades, not with geometrical precision, but with a due regard for light and shadow. A dainty centrepiece is one sprinkled, ' powdered " as the phrase is, with tiny daisies or violets, rose buds or forget-me-nots. When all DOYLEY AND CENTREPIECE BOOK. 23 these tiny blossoms are mingled, the pattern is known as Dresden, because of its resemblance to the famous china. Such a center, care- fully worked, is worthy of becoming an heirloom. Tiny butterflies, leaves or bow knots of floating ribbon may be added with quaint effect. The needlewoman, eager to dabble in colors of a rainbow hue, can hardly be brought to realize that a centrepiece embroidered with "life size" maiden's hair fern in three shades of green, with bronze red stems, cannot be surpassed for daintiness. Such a design is par- ticularly appropriate for the dinner table, w^here, until recently, no color except white was ever allowed. The introduction of Honiton lace braids into pieces of embroidery gives charming results. Not as flower centers or leaves where the lace work is incongruous, but scattered over the cloth, serving to diversify the pattern. Arranged in stars, single petals, or circles, they are appliqued to the front of the linen with white "Asiatic Hon- iton Lace" Silk or "Asiatic" Filo, using long and short stitch. The cloth is then cut away from the reverse side. A particularly elegant centrepiece, which also did service as a tea table cover, was ornamented entirely with sprays of star-like flowers and leaves connected by floating ribbons and huge butterfly bows, all of the "oval" and "tape" Honiton lace braid. The Louis XV. patterns^ as they are called, now found on every- thing from furniture to jewelry, are never so charming as when re- produced on linen. The scroll-like edge should be worked with long and 'short button-hole stitch, which makes the cut edge. Inside this edge the shading is with pale green, yellow or pink, using two shades of the tint in long, sketchy stitches, broken at the edge, but laid evenly side by side. The flowers and leaves on such a centrepiece should be worked in their respective colors, using the palest shades, that the effect of the completed cloth may be dainty and delicate. Embroidery, like its sister art of painting, has its impressionist school, whose followers work buttercups shaded to deepest orange, 24 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S pansies with hearts of ink)- purple, and poppies that flame from the snowy linen. If the worker has a good knowledge of color values and where to lay the shading, no design could be more effective. Flowers so embroidered look best when in a set pattern, as a circle of flowers with the stems all toward the center and blossoms all toward the edge, with scant foliage, so that the greens may not obtrude. Such a cloth is of course circular. The danger lies in being over anxious to make an impression. To the needlewoman with a little talent for sketching, everything will suggest new and fanciful designs, — field flow^ers, a book cover, a rug or piece of upholstery. Having drawn the design on paper, it may be transferred by means of carbon paper or traced directly on the linen as it is held over the design against a window pane. Once started successfully, the dainty work may become not only a source of pleasure but of income. "SARAH DREWSTER." The designs which immediately follow have been found especially adapted to tray-cloths or centrepieces. But the line of demarkation is so indistinct between centerpiece and doyley that the purpose for which the embroidered piece is intended can only be decided by its size and is often simply a matter of choice. It accordingly follows that a design which is suitable for a centrepiece can generally be adapted for a doyley, and it is not a difficult matter for one who has any skill in drawing to even combine parts of two designs, and thus create a third. See Pages 81-83 in regard to Perfor- ated Patterns and Stamped Linens. "ASIATIC DYE" SILK WILL WASH. SQUARE CENTREPIECE. On a fine quality of linen have this design stamped. It consists of Wild Roses and leaves, with corner bow knots of ribbon. Size when finished is 24 x 24 inches, including hemstitched hem. ILLUSTRATION NO. I. The flowers and leaves could be done in outline with pleasing effect, but wiK be very elegant if worked in long and short stitch. It will add greatly to their beauty if, after the ribbon is outlined, the spaces are filled in with fancy stitches, such as cat-stitch, feathbr-stitch, double rows of long and short buttonholeing, etc. The embroidery would be very effective if shades of the "Asiatic Roman" Floss were used, but "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss could be used to good advantage. Make some of the roses light, some dark. For the latter, 2472, 2473, 2474, 2475; for the former, 2470, 2470a, 2471, 2472. A good yellow for the centers would be 2014 or 2015. Bow-knots, 2002. For the rose leaves, 2560, 2561, 2562. Materials — Linen 26 x 26 ins. ; 3 skeins of yellow "Asiatic" Filo ; 2 skeins of each shade of green, 6 in all ; i dozen skeins of the pinks for roses j 3 skeins of white for bow-knots. 26 THE BRAINER0 & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S ROUND CENTREPIECE. This shows a design of Red Carnation Pinks with leaves, also bow-knots and flowing ends. In size it is 22 inches. These flowers would be very pretty if ILLUSTRATION NO. 2. worked in solid Kensington with "Asiatic" File Silk Floss, 2062, 2062 a, 2063, shading in lightly 2064. For the foliage, greens, 2560, 2561, 2562, 2564.' The bow-knots may be of white,. No. 2002, and the streamers the same. When the embroidery is finished buttonhole the circle all round with "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk, white or colored. Materials -Linen, 22 x 22 inches; about 6 skeins of "Asiatic" Filo for the flowers ; 4 skeins for leaves ; 3 of white for bow-knots ; 6 skems of "Asi- atic " Twisted Embroiderv Silk. '•ASIATIC DYE " SILKS HAVE WASHED FOR YEARS. 27 OBLONG CENTREPIECE have this Chrysanthemum design, also scalloped edge, stamped on a fine quality of linen. The size is 20x28. The edge is buttonholed with "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery or "Asiatic Roman " Floss in white, 2002, Or colored, if 28 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S preferred. The sprays of yellow flowers are worked in solid Kensington with "Asiatic Roman" Floss, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 201S, 2019, 2020, 2021. These numbers include the entire line of yellows, ranging from pale canary yellow to deep orange. Of course only a part of these shades need be used, if desired. The leaves are greens, 2390, 2390a, 2391, 2392, 2393. Materials— Linen, 1 7x25 inches ; i dozen skeins of yellow ' 'Asiatic Roman " Floss ; 6 skeins of green ; i dozen skeins of "Asiatic " Twisted Embroidery Silk for edge. NARCISSUS CENTREPIECE. One of the easiest and most effective designs to be done in outline stitch is the conventional Narcissus pattern here shown. The flower is scattered irregu- ILLUSTRATION NO larly over the entire length of the cloth singly, and in groups of two and three. This is a simple pattern and can be readily copied from the illustration. The cente. s of the flowers are marked out with a ten cent piece. There are seven petals surrounding this, which are Jong and slim, with a line extending through them for veining. These are worked entirely in the simple and well-known outline stitch. White "Asiatic" Etching Silk No. 2003 would be pretty for the flowers. The centers could be finished with French knots or dots in orange shade, 2018, or more on the yellow. Finish with a hemstitched hem all around. MATERiALS-Linen, 24 ^ 32 inches; 9 skeins oi white "Asiatic" Etching Silk ; 3 skeins of color, if wished. 'ASIATIC DYE" WERE FIRST WASH SILKS. 29 VIOLET CENTREPIECE. Lovers of elaborate needlework will surely be delighted with this handsome violet and scroll design, for there are great possibilities in its execution. The scrolls in the center may be simply outline or filled in with fancy stitches. Gold thread crossed with silk might be used for this center. A word about the color- ing of this design may be helpful. "Asiatic Roman" Floss is recommended, although the "Asiatic" Filo would look well for the delicate ilowers. The ILLUSTRATION NO. $■ violets should be worked with 2610, 2611, 2612, 2613, or the new shades 2680, 2681, 2682, 2683; stems, 2560, 2561, in solid Kensington. The scrolls would look well in wh=te, 2002, straw, 2631, or palest green, 2560. The scallops may be outlined with "Asiatic Roman" Floss of palest green, 2560, or violet, 2520. Materials— I dozen skeins colored "Asiatic Roman" Floss or "Asiatic" Filo. A fine quality of linen would be good for this design. The size of linen is 22 X 22 inches. 30 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S MORNING GLORY CENTREPIECE. Here we have an elegant design for a round centrepiece 36 inchs in diameter. The Morning Glory design is stamped on a fine quality of linen. The edge is first worked in buttonhole stitch. White is oftenest used, but if one fancies, it may be a color, using "Asiatic Roman" Floss or "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery. ILLUSTRATION NO. 6. The Morning Glories, buds, leaves and stems, are worked with "Asiatic Roman" Floss, although "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss would be very dainty. The flowers and buds are solid Kensington stitch; the stems, simple outline, using the green shade, 2472, for the latter. Work the edges of the petals with darkest shade, working into the cup with the lightest shades blended into white 2002. One, two or three colors of the flowers may be used: Pink Morning Glories, 2471, 2472, 2473, 2474, 2002. Blue Morning Glories, 2030a, 2030, 2031, 2031 a, 2002. Purple Morning Glories, "ASIATIC DYE" SILK CHEAPEST BECAUSE BEST. 31 2a30, 2231, 2232, 2002. Red Morning Glories, 2130, 213 , 2132, 2133, 2002. Leaves aijd Foliage, 2560, 2561, 2562, 2563, 2564, 2565'. Materials — Linen 36x36 inches ; i dozen and a half of silk for flowers and leaves ; i dozen skeins for buttonholeing edge. BACHELOR BUTTON CENTREPIECE. The foundation for this is linen, with a design of Bachelor Button sprays. The edge is buttonholed. "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss would work nicely here, ILLUSTRATION NO. 7. as the design of edge is so fine. White or color can be used, as preferred. The flowers may be worked in long and short stitch or solid Kensington, with shades 2600, 2601, 2603, 2604, 2605, or 2591, 2592, 2593, 2594, 2595. For the stalks and leaves, green, 2560, 2561, 2562, 2563. A great deal depends on the worker in all these designs. Great care must be taken to shade as nearly natural as possible. Materials— Linen 18x18 inches; 6 skeins of "Asiatic" Filo for flowers; 6 of green for stalks and stems ; 6 for edge. 3» THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S SQUARE NOVELTY CENTREPIECE. This odd design will certainly pay tlie worker when finished. Of course the edges are buttonholed, flowers and all, so that it may be cut out readily. The comers may be buttonholed with white "Asiatic Roman" Floss, in long and SHORT STITCH. The ribbon with white also, having fancy stitches for filling. ILLUSTRATION NO S. Solid Kensington is often used for ribbon. Pale pink or pale green would also be effective. Pink, yellow, blue or green, in the palest shades, would be pretty to work the flowers, using long and short stitch. It is an 18-jnch square in size. Materials — Linen i8x 18 inches ; about a dozen skeins of "Asiatic Roman" Floss. Note — In working short and long or fancy buttonhole edges for centerpieces, doyleys or other arucies, the best embroiderers go over the edge a second time, working a plain buttonhole into the edge first worked. This prevents fraying when the edge is cut out. Save Your Holders. They are worth something to you. LADIES EVERYWHERE showed so much interest in our last competition for cash prizes that we have decided to make a similar and more liberal offer in our present catalogue. In order to induce all embroiderers to insist on having Brainard & Arm- strong's " Asiatic Dye" Wash Embroidery Silks we have decided to redeem our empty Holders as outlined in the following pages. After using the silk from the paper Holders, save the empty Holders, mail them to us, and we will send you the prizes as offered on other pages. We cannot redeem parts of Holders — that is, they must all be full length, not torn in pieces. If you have friends who embroider, get them to save the old Holders for you, unless they, also, are going to try for the prizes. As there are loi cash prizes, every one stands a good chance of winning one of them. If 3'ou save only a few Holders it may pay to send them in, for if only a few try, you will be pretty likely to get a small cash prize anyway. Notice also that saving only a few Holders will enable you to take advan- tage of one or more of the offers on the following page. These Liberal Offers Hold Good Only Until Nov. ist 1899. SEE NEXT PAGE. Notice. — It is hardly necessary for us to say that our friends can place implicit confidence in the brief testimonial letters which we have placed at thf bottom of each page. They came to us entirely unsolicited, and we have the originals from which they were copied at this office. TDeBrainerd&flrmsironflSliKGo. 99 UNION STREET, NEW LONDON, CONN. Save your Empty Holders. THEY ARE GOOD FOR ONE OF THE FOLLOWING PRIZES No. 1 Our New Doyley and Centrepiece Book we send to any address for lo Holders and 4c. to cover postage and wrapping No. 2 Our Latest Sample Card we send for .0 Holders and loc. to cover postage and wrapping. No. 3 Our Art Needlework Book, latest edition, we send for lo Holders and 4.C. to cover postage and wrapping. No. 4 Our Popular " Blue Book " we send for 4 Holders and a 2c. stamp to cover postage. No. 5 Our Crochet Booklet we send postpaid for 4 Holders and a 2c. stamp. No. 6 Our Catalogue and Waste Emb'y Book we send free for 4 Holders and a 2c. stamp. No. 7 The Large Picture, "Can't You Talk," 14 x 22 inches, no adver- tising on it, a beautiful picture, free for 30 Holders and 4c. to cover postage and packing. No. 8 Half Ounce Package of Waste Emb'y Silk, any assortment— No. I, z, 3, 4 or 5, as described in our Waste Book — sent for 20 Holders and loc. to cover postage and packing. No. 9 One Bunch of 25 Skeins of Plain Emb'y Silk (not wash silk but the old style common embroidery) any color desired, free, for 10 holders and four 2C. stamps to cover postage and packing. No. 10 A Large Line of Stamped Linens (as shown in our Doyley and centrepiece Book). See list of Linens, pages 81-83, ^°^ offers. No. II A i9 X i9 inch Linen Centerpiece (violet design) stamped ready for working, with complete instructions in regard to silk, stitches and color- ing, sent free for 35 empty Holders and 20c. See list of Linens, pages 81-83 for offers. No. 12 Our Jewel Book we send for 6 Holders and 3c. to cover postage. No. 13 Our Delft Book we send for 6 Holdei-s and 3c. to cover postage. No. 14 Our Rose Book we send for 6 Holders and 3c. to cover postage. No. 1 5 Our Bohemian Glass Book we send for 6 Holders and 3c. to cover postage. No. 16. Our Chafing Dish Book we send for 4 Holders and 2c. to cover postage. *-- No. 17. $300.00 in Cash. For details in regard to Cash Prizes, see opposite page 70, and for offers of Stamped Linens see list of Linens, pages 81 to 83. ,,. , , , T September 19th, 1894. I cannot refrain from telhng you how attached I am to your silks and how very delightful it is since you have fixed them in Holders so they do not tangle. It is certainly the best way we have ever had and I thank you for the pleasure it has already given me." Mrs. C. M. F,, Louigville, Ky. The Brainerd & Armstrong Silk Co. 99 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. Dojjleys^ O PART of the taole .linen has received more at- tention than the doyley. It is adapted to a multi- tude of uses, not the least attractive of w^hich is to be placed under the crystal finger bow^l, through !»" the clear waters of vsrhich one sees the delicate designs. They are the particular pride of the housekeeper who delights in securing or utilizing for her service the oddest, newest or most delicate conceits to be found. When made of fine linen and carefully embroid- ered with choice colors, they bring large prices. Doyleys of the present time are perfect marvels of loveliness, their size varying according to their use, and they may be made square, oval or round in form, to suit individual fancy or capricious taste. These purely decorative accessories are used lavishly upon every well appointed table, arid are almost always elaborately embroidered. They are worked in all sorts of stitches and edged in various ways, perhaps the least serviceable way of finishing them is with fringe, but if made double it will last some time. The simple hem is most serviceable. Lately the scallop has been mostly used as a means for finishing the edge, a very pretty way for adapting it is to run graceful little tendrils toward the center of the doyley. Squares varying in size from five to nine inches are most desir- able for placing under finger bowls or any small dishes and these are most effective when worked in some small design, or adorned with an open pattern of drawn work. 34 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S If these doyleys are not trimmed about the edges with a fine bit of lace, they should be finished off by means of a narrow fringe, as the threads are so peculiarly woven that they will not pull out suc- cessfully for hem stitching. The latter mode is always preferable for finishing linen doyleys, being much more durable and more easily laundered under this form. Flowers, such as violets, buttercups, daisies, sweet peas, nastur- tiums, carnations and rose buds are scattered upon them in the most irregular manner, as if they, had fallen there, and embroidered solidly in the natural colors of the different flowers. The word doyley, now a familiar one with the ladies, is derived from the name of Robert D'Oyley, one of the followers of William the Norman. He received a grant of valuable lands on the condition of a yearly tender of a tablecloth of three shillings' value at the feast of St. Michael. Agreeable to the fashion of the time, the ladies of the D'Oyley household were accustomed to embroider and ornament the quit-rent tablecloths ; hence these cloths, becoming curiosities and accumulating in the course of years, were at length brought into use as napkins at the royal table and called doyleys. "MEG RILL." DELFT SHADES ARE EXACT REPRODUCTIONS. 35 ROUND D0YLEY5- ILLUSTRATION NO. 9. Daisy Doyley This pretty 9-inch Doyley is very simple and easily worked. The design is stamped on a foundation of linen. Buttonhole the edge with white "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss, or a pale color, if wished. The round circles in the center are outlined with "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss same shade as edge. The delicate little daisies are worked in "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss with white 2002, doing solid work. Tip the centers with yellow 2012 or 2013. Stems white, or green 2480. , Materials — Foundation, linen 12x12 inches; half a dozen skeins of white "Asiatic" Filo ; 2 skeins of straw color. Doyley for Water Bottle. This Doyley has for its foun- dation fine linen or lawn. The edge is embroidered in button- hole stitch with "Asiatic" Twist- ed Embroidery Silk, No. 2002. The round lines in the center are worked in outline with white "Asiatic" Filo Floss. No. 2002. The scroll work is dona in outline stitch with "Asiatic" Filo, No. 2016, gold color. Materials — Linen, 12x12 inches; 6 skeins of "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery ; 3 skeins white "Asiatic" Filo ; 6 skeins of No. 2016, gold color, "Asi- atic" Filo. ixlustration no. 10. 36 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S Renaissance Embroidery. The fringed Doyley is classic in ety\e. The beauty and grace of the Renaissance is copied from the Acan- thus leaf. This Doyley should be worked on a fine quality of linen. In order to fringe a circular doyley, button- hole stitch the round stamped line firm- ly and closely with two strands of "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss, 2001 or 2002, white or green, No. X2280, or pink 2472. Pull the threads apart at the illustration no. 11. four sides. Then pull the threads apart at the corners and trim to the circular . form with sharp scissors. Work the leaves solidly with green No. 2280, and the thin line scrolls that jut out from the main circle in outline stitch with pink "Asiatic" Filo Silk Floss No. 2472. An effective result may be obtained with this design by marking the stitches heavier near the main rib and carrying the finer near the ends of the leaves, and in this way a more delicate feeling is produced than if the lines were all worked of uniform width. Materials— Linen, 12x12 inches; six skeins of pink "Asiatic" Filo Si! Floss; six skeins of green. Arbutus Doyley. This Doyley should be fringed in the same manner, and the design should be carried out in the natural colors with "Asiatic" Filo, working either solidly or in long and short Ken- sington stitch. For the flowers use 2470, 2470a, 24.71, 2472, 2473, 2474. The leaves may be worked with 2560, 2561, 2562, with a suggestion of brown 2444 in the oldest leaves. The brown may be used for the stems. The ribbon ILLUSTRATION NO. 13. 'ASIATIC DYE" SILKS WORK SMOOTHLY. 37 may be white 2002 or the palest pink 2237, and will look best if worked in solid Kensington all over the ribbon. Materials — Linen, 14 x 14 inches; i skein of "Asiatic" Filo, 2062; i skein 2444 ; 6 skeins of pinks. Sweet Pea Doyley. This eight-inch Doyley is a very effective one when the design is worked with "Asiatic" Filo in pinks, Nos. 2472, 2473, 2474, or pur- ples 2040, 2041, 2042, and white 2002. The leaves are 2622 and the edge may be button- holed in white 2002, or any delicate color pre- ferred. Work in solid Kensington stitch. Remember in embroidering sweet peas that nature plays strange freaks in coloring this pretty flower, and the markings are strong and individual. 2002 white is used to shade the pinks and purples and also to work an illustration no. 13. entire flower, putting in the markings with either the purples or pinks. The outer portion of sweet pea petals are generally of the lightest shade. Button-hole the scalloped edge of doyley with two strands of "Asiatic" Filo No. 2002. Materials — Linen, 9x9 inches; 4 skeins pink "Asiatic"' Filo; 4 skeins purple ; 6 skeins white. Pansy Doyley. A pretty way to work this nine-inch doyley would be to button-hole the scal- lops ; then for the pansies cover each petal with basket stitch of white "Asiatic" Filo 2002, using one thi-ead; the edges of the petals are finished with gold thread, button-holed on with gold-colored floss. The centres could be filled in with French knots, the veinings in simple outline. When finished cut out with sharp scis- sors. Materials — Linen, 10 x 10 inches ; i illustration no. 14. , dozen skeins "Asiatic" Filo, No. 2002. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S SQUARE DOYLEYS^-^^^ Square Doyley. Square doyleye are very popular at present. They may be bought already hemstitched for 25 cents and upward. Have any design stamped. These doyleys give a touch of tone and elegance to the plainest table and add materially to the refinement of the most sumptuous. One yard of fine linen, 36 inches wide, will cut quite a number of doyleys ; allow for a quarter inch hem. The design is a graceful festoon of wild ILLUSTRATION NO. I?. .^, . ^. .,, ,„ , ,, ■' roses, with floating ribbons. Work the roses in SOLID KENSINGTON STITCH with "Asiatic" Filo, shades 2474, 2475, also a touch of 2473. The ribbon solid in white, 2002. MATERIALS' — Linen, 12x12; 3 skeins of pink "Asiatic" Filo; 3 skeins of ■white. Square Doyley. This doyley has a hemstitched hem. Each corner is stamped with a forget-me-not design. The size is 12 x 12 after it is hemstitched. Work the flowers solidly with blue "Asiatic" Filo, in shades 2030, 2031, 2032; dot the center with yellow, 2014. The leaf shades are 2391 ■nd 2392. Materials— Linen, 12x12 inches; i skein of each of three shades of blues ; i skein yellow ; I tkein of each of two greens. ILLUSTRATION NO. 16. "ASIATIC DYE" SILKS GIVE ARTISTIC COLORINGS. 39 Dresden Doyley These dainty little doyleys are very beauti- ful when properly and careful!}' worked. Dres- den embroidery consists of sprays of flowers dropped on all over, extending on to the hem. The flowers are worked in palest tints of blue "Asiatic" Filo, such as 2030, 2031, 2031a; pinks, 2470, 2471, 2472; yellows, 20H, 2012, 2013. Work the leaves in oliye green, Nos. 2050a, 2050, 2051, in imitation of the Dresden china. The stitch used is solid Kensington. illustration no. 17. Materials — Linen, 18x18 inches ; i skein of each of twelve colors. ^ '^y..... > 4 1^ ■*' ^ -^ -^ ^" ^ :^ ILLUSTRATION NO. l8. the pink. Ribbon Doyley. This design stamped on a linen foundation is neat and pretty. Work the ribbon outline, each end, with the palest pink "Asiatic " Filo, No. 2470 a; then cat- stitch the inside of ribbon with same shades. Work the forget-me-nots with blues, 2030, 2031 , 2032 ; give the center a touch of the pink, 2470. Stitch for the flowers is SOLID KENSINGTON. Size of doyley, 10 x 10 inches. Materials — Linen, 12 x 12 inches; i skein each of three shades of blue "Asiatic" Filo; 3 skeins of Clover Doyley This nine inch doyley is square, finished with a hemstitched hem. The foundation is of fine while linen, and the design consists of clover blossoms, with their foliage tied to- gether in the center with a bow of ribbon. The flower is worked solidly with "Asiatic" Filo, in shades 2571, 2572, 2573, 2574. The leaves, 2050a, 2050, 2051, 2052. The stems and tendrils, 20503. Work the ribbon bow solidly in a pale shade of pink or white. Materials — Linen, 14x14 inches; i skein each of "Asiatic" Filo for flowers; i skein each of three greens for leaves. ILLUSTRATION NO. 19. 40 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S Thistle Doyley. Another scalloped doyley. Buttonhole the heavy scallop with "Asiatic Roman" Floss, white, 2002. The thistles are worked in shades of "Asi- atic" Filo, long and short stitch, shades 2040, 2041, 2042. For green use 2390a, 2391, 2392. Materials — Linen, 9x9 inches ; i skein each of three shades for flowers; for greens, 3 skeins. ILLUSTRATION ^fO. 20. ii S u a ii a a fi^iaa(Xi large medal- lions ; 16 medi- um medallions; 16 smallest me- dallions ; I doz- en skeins "Asi- atic HonitoB Lace" Silk. Ideal Honiton Centrepiece. Illustra- tion No. 31. — This beautiful design of an i8J^ inch centerpiece has for its foun- 5° THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S dation fine linen. The flowers and leaves are made with braid, a medallion being used for each petal and leaf. They are sewed down with "Asiatic Honiton Lace " Silk in reversed buttonhole stitch, and eyelet holes are used for the center of the flowers, though they can be worked solidly if preferred. Tlie circles in the border should be filled with spider webs or lace stitches, and the linen cut away. A heavily buttonholed border finishes this design. Some prefer to use "Asiatic" Filo for the border. Materials — Linen, 22 \ 22 ; braid No. 437, 2 yards (or 64 medallions); 3 yards No. 411 ; 9 skeins of " Asiatic Honiton Lace" Silk. illustration no 32. Ideal Honiton Doyley. The illustration No. 32 shows a finished doyley, with the floral part in each corner, formed entirely of Honiton lace. The lace braid No. 416 and 431 is basted down nicely, then sewed down firmly, using the '-Asiatic Honiton Lace" Silk. The bais between the rounds of braid are worked over and over firmly and closely. Tea and Liincl^eon Cloths^ ^ HE tiny spread tea table is becoming more and more a familiar object in our American drawing-rooms, as the pretty English custom of five o'clock tea is being universally adopted in this country. This informal " dish of tea " and the two o'clock cup of chocolate are bringing into general requisition the dainty embroidered tea and luncheon cloths. A round weave, heavy linen and a fine linen lawn are the most suitable ground materials for these cloths. They should be embroid ered in the Brainerd & Armstrong embroidery silks. The large variety of these silk threads makes it possible for the worker to choose her decoration from a wide field of styles of needlework. ." Asiatic ■' Filo is without doubt the most beautiful of all the embroidery threads, and is more nearly like those wonderful strands found in ancient embroideries than any other material of mod- ern manufacture. Those who use it should, however, bear in mind that its purpose is for fine work on fine materials. The coarsei threads are designed for and are more appropriate to heavy linens and for work which may be called broad or sketchy. Of these threads "Asiatic Roman" Floss may be mentioned first, as coming next to "Asiatic" Filo for a grade heavier work. It has much the same quality as the Filo used double, and produces very much the same effect with less work, because it is more easily " laid." It is delight- ful to handle, and in the "long and stiort" stitch border work it is 52 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S most lustroifs. "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk may be combined with this border work in "Asiatic" Roman Floss as an outline to it in the Kensington outline stitch, or by itself it is most effective in outline work, being heavier than the "Asiatic" Outline Silk. This latter thread carries perfectly on linen ; its twist is of such a character that it does not knot or fray, but it is for a finer weave than the "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery. "Asiatic Art Rope" Silk and "Asi- atic " Rope Silk are especially adapted to outlining and long and short stitch border work, as well as to the so-called fancy stitches or to conventional designs to be embroidered on the very heavy soft linens which are so much used for tea cloths. Either conventional designs or drawings from nature are equally suited to the decoration of the cloths. A knowledge of the simple rules of complimentary colors will aid the worker in selecting the color combination for the former, and the Brainerd & Armstrong " Blue Book " will be of real value to the general worker who is not herself an original artist, in working flowers. It contains the label numbers of the proper shades of silk to be used for a large variety of flowers, fruits and leaves. To so classify these shades has required much careful work on the part of professional workers. Tea and luncheon cloths should be finished with hemstitched hems or hemstitched fringe. Narrow " drawn work" may be usedtto secure the hem instead of the conventional stitch, but it is not the highest art to use elaborate bars of it with embroidery. Indeed, it is better not to " trim " embroidery, both because it detracts from it and because two styles of decoration should not be combined in this way. Therefore there is no finish as rich and so in keeping with simple linen as the hem. It may be two or three inches deep on heavy linens. Narrow hems are prettier for lawns. They may be from one to one-quarter inch deep. A fine lace is a dainty finish on a lawn square, and may be " overhanded " around the hem or mounted on the edge, lapping, as a heading would, half an inch. An especially PATENT THREAD HOLDERS ARE CONVENIENT. 53 pretty way to use lace is to mount it its full width, the lower edge turned up instead of, as usual, down. Serviettes are appropriately used with the cloths. They should be eighteen inches square, including fringe or hem. Embroider one comer to correspond with the cloth. Fold once each way, making a nine-inch square, which should itself be folded diagonally. It is not now necessary that one color should prevail in the appointments of the afternoon tea-table ; indeed, contrasts are newer, and so long as they are harmonious they are perfectly artistic. The following designs, with the accompanied directions for embroidering, will serve as examples and guides for tea and luncheon cloth decoration, and will also aid the worker in points of quantity and materials. Lily Pattern. Illustration No. 33. — This corner design in lilies affords opportunity for a study in white and green. This combination is always pleasing, and the special advantage of using it for a ter cloth is that, when it is brought in contact with the many colors likely to be in the drawing-room, there is little danger of a discord. This is a. bold design, and may be, for this reason, adapted to the largest size cloth — that is, to a cloth one yard and a quarter square. The general weight of the cloth should be in accord. It should be of heavy linen and have a deep hem. A very pretty effect is often gained by using a linen of a partial bleach, but this is a matter of taste in coarser styles of work. To carry out the idea of richness, which this heavy linen with its deep hemstitched hem will have, use Brainerd & Armstrong's "Asiatic Roman" Floss in embroidering the de- sign. Beside white, 2002, for the blossoms, use the lightest green, 2430, for their shadowtint, and for the leaves 2430, 2430a, 2431, 2432. Do the work in long and SHORT STITCH. The long stitch in this broad work may be from three-fourths to one inch long, and the short stitch in its proper proportion. Keep the high light on the outer petals, shading those in perspective with the green. The calyx may also be of this light green. The deep greens should be kept to the central leaves, 54 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S and the lightei- greens used to terminate the design in its side leaves. If a touch of color is wanted use 2014 for the stamens, working the anthers solid ; the slant for the stitches of these little dots is at a slight angle with the stamens rather than perpendicular to them. Materials — Supposing this study to be enlai-ged to sixteen inches, it will require a cloth not smaller than forty inches square to carry it. To repeat the design in each corner, one will need about four dozen skeins of white silk, one doz- en of each of the shades of green. One skein of yellow will be sufficient, if it is used. ILLUSTRATION NO. 33. Rose Pattern. Illustration No. 34. — This study of roses is another simple design, but less conventional, and so admitting of a broader treatment as to color, but requiring a more careful method of working. A heavy, round weave, white linen should be used and a double thread of the Brainerd & Armstrong "Asi- atic ■ Filo. The bunches may be scattered around the square, not closer than one half inch to the hem. If the edge is finished by fringing keep the embroidery at least one inch from it, and be sure also to weight the corners PATENT HOLDERS KEEP SILK FROM SOILING. 55 —that is, to have the design heaviest in them. A powdering of the loose buds and a few leaves will extend the idea of decoration over a large surface, and this is a good method to give an elaborate elifect to the piece without elaborate work. The drawing suggests such roses as the " Marechal Neil" or the " Catherine Mermet," and the suggestion will be vivified, as it were, if the blossoms are beautifully embroidered in the soft yellows or shell pinks, with their leaves is soft greens. It is not always advisable to use striking, decided colors on while, but if subdued greens are used one may venture the red rose, and have a very glow- ILLUSTRATION NO. 34. ing, delightful effect. In this latter case solid embroidery is not to be thought of; indeed, the " long and short" work or a second row only of stitches imposed ir one thread of "Asiatic" Filo over the first row of two threads, is more appro- priate on linen than solid embroidery. The numbers of the proper shades for the flowers are in the different colors as follows : Yellows, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2016; pinks, 2470, 2471, 2472, 2473; reds, 2062, 2064, 2065, 2066; greens for leaves, 2430, 2430a, 2431; stems in browns, 2360 and 2362. The very light shade given for tlie flowers in each color ii» intended for the rolled over edges of the petals. These folds should be worked 56 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S with stitches at an opposite angle to those of the other part of the petals, and a row of the deepest shade should be placed under them to throw t4iem out, into which the light s'hades should be blended. The openings in the buds should be touched in with a stitch of deep color. Materials — A tea cloth one yard square will carry these roses life size. The linen should be rather fine, though always a round weave. To repeat this study four times in "Asiatic" Filo will require four skeins of each of the three light shades and two of the deepest of the flower shades ; greens, three of each ; browns, two of each shades. Jonquil Pattern. This arrangement of the Jon- quil is very artistic, in that it pos- sesses a quality rare in close designs — -namely, looseness. It will balance in the corners of a tea cloth beauti- fully, and its combination of green and yellow has an especially fresh look on white linen. In embroidering these flowers one needs to give careful attention to the slant of the stitches, because the character of the blossoms is altogether dependent upon their direction. If the worker has the Jonquil itself in mind the direction of the petal veins will be a sufiicient guide. In the oval petals around the cups the stitches should slant from nXUSTRATION NO •?!;. . , J the edge m slightly toward the center veins. The cups should be worked with stitches perpendicular at the middle and slant- ing gently out on their flaring edges. The deepest shade of yellow should throw into shadow, and so show the depth of the cup behind the light edge. This design is a good one for the Kensington outline stitch, because it is full in line expression. To work it in this way one should use the beautiful "Asi- atic" Rope Silk, or "Asiatic Art Rope" Silk if the linen is very heavy. The "Asiatic Roman" Floss will be better on a lighter cloth, or the "Asiatic" Out- line Embroidery Silk. Outline firmly with a fine stitch, and alwacs in this work be careful to keep the character of the drawing. The spirit of the flowers will be more truly felt if this work is done in all white. Outline embroidery is intended PATENT HOLDERS KEEP SILK FROM ROUGHING. 57 to suggest only, and as it is very simple work, it is not artistic to require it in its suggestiveness to include color and shades of color, as well as form. The label number of the white silk is 2002. The following are the numbers of the silks needed to do the work, as it will be most effective in colors, and embroidered with long and short stitch : Blossoms, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016; leaves in the frosty blue greens, 2430, 2430 a, 2431, 2432. Materials — A tea-cloth worked in this way may be Email — one yard square — and the design will take about two dozen skeins of the heavy threads mentioned. If done in colors the quantity will be one-half doz- en of each of the first four ILLUSTRATION NO. 36. shades of yellow ; three skeins of each of the darker yellows ; greens, two skeins lightest shade, one of the other three shades. Chrysanthemum Pattern. Illustration No. 36. — A composition study such as this graceful chrys- anthemum and scroll corner requires more cai-eful woi-k in its treatment than designs with a single motive. The forms in this case are perfectly harmonious, and it is not less necessary that the colors should be. The following color 58 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S combinations in the Brainerd & Armstrong "Asiatic" Filo are suggested j The leaves in all cases, 2430, 2430a, 2431, 2432. If you desire to have the blos- soms yellow use 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, with the beautiful pale lavender shades, 2520, 2040a, 2230 and 2231, in the scroll. With the blossoms shell pink, 2239, 2240, 2240a, 2241, work the scroll in the gaslight greens, 2436, 2480, 2482, 2483. With the blossoms lavender, 2520, 2040a, 2230, 2231, work the scroll white, 2002, shading it with pale green, 2430. With the blossoms in old rose, 2670, 2671, 2672, 2673, 2674, work the scroll in soft yellows, 2630, 2631, 2632. Chrysanthemums are most satisfactory when they are worked long and SHORT STITCH on each side of the petals, the slant being slightly in. Commence at the apex of the petals with a perpendicular stitch. This is the first long stitch, and if the design is enlarged to life size it may be three-fourths of an inch long. On the convex sid« of the petal work from the top down and in, on the concave side, work from the surface of the petal up and out to the'outline. This little rule will be very helpful in working narrow petals, also grasses and oblong leaves. Never impose one series of stitches upon another ; for instance, when these petals lap work the one which lies back £rst, well down to the line of the one which crosses it, but not over it. When this entire petal is worked, both above and below, work the forward petal with a lighter shade. Its edge will in this way be well covered and perfectly up against the first petal as background. The curving forms of the scroll are far more diificvilt to express in solid embroidery than figures in straight lines. For this reason an inexperienced worker may do well to content herself with tipping the curves long and short stitch, and outlining their long sides in "Asiatic Roman" Floss. This work may be made quite elaborate by repeating the outline two or more times, letting the lines touch each other. To woi'k the scroll solid or x,ong and short Stitch border work, see instructions under Illustration No. 37. A tea or luncheon cloth having this design embroidered in each corner will be very elaborate and beautiful. It will be in good taste to use separate chrysanthemums as a powdering on the cloth, but they should be smaller than the corner flowers. Materials— This study enlarged to nineteen inches will be proportionate to a yard and a quarter cloth. The quantity of silks respectively are: Lightest green, one-half dozen skeins ; one of each the other three shades. In the blos- som shades, one-half dozen lightest, four second and third shades ; two of the deepest shades. For the scrolls tipped and outlined with "Asiatic Roman " Floss one-haM dozen ; two light shades ; two each of the other shades. PATENT HOLDERS KEEP SILK FROM SPLITTING. 59 Scroll Pattern. Illustration No. 37. — This is a beautiful example of scroll drawing, and it is especially adapted to embroidery. The merit of the design cannot be appreciated fully in so small a drawing, but it will be perfectly apparent on enlarging. The width between the lines of the enlarged scroll will be from one- fourth to one-half inch, and this gives opportunity for .1 row of stitches on each side. When the scroll runs out into a single line in the small figure, it also will have width. There is a very pretty way to work such curves as terminate these lines. It is a process Avhich raises the embroidery while it accomplishes the turns. Bring the needle up at the extreme end of the line and send it down on the line one-half inch in advance. Bring it up again on the line of the stitch, but in advance of its beginning send it down in front of its termination, so that this second stitch so laid will lap the first. Continue these stitches, be- ing guided by the outline curve, and lapping each over the ones preceding it, and the result will be a beautiful ridged line. (This is the correct way to work a complete circle.) These stitches should run into long and SHORT STITCH where the scroll widens en its convex side, and the concave side may afterwards be worked in the way suggested for the inner side of the chrysanthemum petal. The cross bar work may be diapered or darned or left plain. This dainty composition is suited to linen lawn, which make/s beautiful tea cloths. The lawns are more and more taking the place of heavy linens, and although they require finer work, they certainly repay it in the daintiness of their folds over the tea-table. A single thread of "Asiatic " Filo should be used for embroidery on this material. The following combination is suggested for this study : Use the terra cotta, Nos. 2150a, 3360b, 2360a, 2360, 2361, for the scroll, and the blues, 2030, 2031, 2032, for the forget-me-nots. Scatter blue forget-me- nots as a powdering over the cloth, or near the hem only. ' Materials — The cloth should de one yard square. Terra cotta shades of ■ilk, one dozen skeins lightest, eight second shade, six skeins third shade, four ILLUSTRATION NO. 37. eo THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S fourth shade, one deepest. Blues, three lightest shade, three second shade and two skeins of the deepest. Two skeins of two shades of green will be Sufficient for the tiny leaves, Nos. 2430 and 2431. A skein of yellow, No. 2014, will be needed for the French knot, which should be in the center of the flowers. Sweet Pea Pattern. Illustration N0.38 — Sweet peas are one of the prettiest blos- soms for lawn, worked in one thread of Brain- erd & Armstrong's "Asiatic" Filo. In embroidering sweet peas beautiful effects can be produced by using dull purples with pinks and white, or by combining old rose and blue of a purple tint. The best shad- ings for this flower are the following pinks : 2300, 2301, 3302, 2303, 2150a, 2150 b, 2151. For the leaves and stems use the follow- ilng greens: 2430, 2430a, 2431, 2432. The petals should be worked in the long and short stitch in the two middle shades ; the tiny center spine should be worked in the deepest, and the folds which cover over on each side of it should be of the lightest shade. These folds and the spines should be raised by working long stitches over them first, and then covering these with stitches at a pretty angle. Outline the tendrils with the lightest green. Sweet peas expressed in the glossy "Asiatic " Filo are among the flowers which are most satisfactory in embroidery. When they are well worked they are, indeed, exquisite. They are not as difficult as amateur. illustration no. 38. PATENT HOLDERS KEEP SILK FROM TANGLING. 61 sometimes fear, only it is necessary that the worker study their unique charac- ter. Have a cluster of the blossoms on your work table, and you will find in the petal veining the correct answer to questions of stitch direction. In general it may be said of these studies for tea and luncheon cloths that their stems and other single lines should be worked in Kensington outline, and that linens to be embroidered in solid or partially solid work should be stretched in hoops, in order that the imposed stitches may be laid with perfect accuracy of direction and tension. "L. BURTON WILTON." /JeWel Kmbi^oideuy. EWEL WORK is simple, but requires the utmost nicety to keep the perfect shape of the jewel, and to get them covered evenly and smoothly. The pattei-n, which should be stamped upon linen of fine quality, should have all the outline design worked before putting in hoops, or a frame, as it is easier to do outlining in the hand. For most work, where there is to be a varietj' of colors used in the jewels, it is most artistic to have all scroll work done with "Asiatic" Filo in white No. 2002, or in yellow No. 2016, and the scallops with "Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery Silk of the same color. After the outlining is done the linen should be stretched in a frame, or over hoops, and the jewels "filled" with embroidery totton, as is done in large designs on flannel. The stitch used is the satin stitch and all the stitches run in the same direction, crosswise. of the pattern for round jewels, and lengthwise for oblong ones. Have each jewel well filled, rounded up to the center, and the outline correctly preserved. After the "filling" is finished the jewels are all to be covei-ed with "Asiatic" Filo in satin stitch, very evenly and fully, and with each stitch exactly at right angles to those of the "filling." The shades of silk used are of the palest tint for the dot, and the edge finely outlined with a darker shade of the same color. The two shades should be in decided contrast of the same color. Great care should be taken to preserve the shape of the round jewel and to round up the center so that the lightest should be higher than the outlined edge. We append a list of shades to be used in making the different jewels. Amethyst, 2521 and 2524, or 2680 and 2683. Emerald, 2080 and 2081. Qarnet, 2062 a and 2065. PATENT HOLDERS ARE IMMENSE. 63 Opal. This should be made of a number of colors in the palest tints, shaded in -with the very palest in the center for a high light. The colors used are 2480, 2520 a, 2030 b, 2237 and the edge 2590. Pearl, 2590 a, 2600a. Ruby, 2130 and 2136. Topaz, 2630 and 2634. Turquoise, 2270 and 2273. A pretty pink which makes a good effect, especially with emeralds, is made with 2300a and 2672. Another pretty combination for a delicate . effect is White, 2001, outlined with 2714. "WiLLARD Westmore." The suggestions which have been made thus far have been general in character, and are- intended to convey a general idea of some of the characteristics of Jewel Embroidery. But in order that we may show more perfectly some of the beautiful effects which can be pro- duced by this style of work, we shall include in this little book the following series of stamped linens, which we can sell to your dealer if you wish him to secure them for you. Pattern 395 A. In working the jewels nearest the scallop, make the alternate jewels of 2014 and 2016 in "Asiatic" Filo. Work over cotton to raise^them ; around edge of jewels with same colored silk. To work the outspreading rays, do the long one and every other one in herring-bone stitch, and outline the remaining ones with 2480. Pass now to the inside circle of jewels and work them with Nos. 2480 and 2481, having raised them as previously explained. Do the projecting rays with 2014 and 2016 in the same manner as explained for the outside row. Border— Button-hole the scalloped pattern 395 A. edge with "Asiatic Roman" Floss, No. 2016, and use same shade to shades outline outline 64 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S the line above the scallop." In the space between the line and the scallop, put in fancy stitches with 24S2, Green, or fill in a double cross-stitch, making it like lace or net work. Materials — Use Brainerd & Armstrong's ''Asiatic D^'e'' Silks ; 4 skeins 2480, 6 skeins 24S2, 4. skeins 2014, 4 skeins 2016 ''Asiatic' Filo; also 6 skeins 2016 "Asiatic Roman" Floss. Pattern 395 B. In the first place work the wreath of jewels. Starting fi-om bow-knot, make first jewel with 2670, next 2220 (this jewel does not appear in the illustration but is on the linen), then 2065, and center jewel with 2522, with dot above and below of 2633, Then reverse in same order to bow-knot. Next festoon start with 2522, then 2635, 2L65 and 2220, with dots 2670, and reverse as before. All jewels to be raised ver^- high and outlined. Work leaves with 2620 and 2621, shading light at tips. For bow-knot or ribbon, use "Asiatic" Filo, 2002, to cat-stitch from side to side, giving the effect of ribs on the web of the ribbon, and outline the edges with No. 2482. This gives a beautiful effect. All jewels inside of bow-knot do with 2621. ^ Border — Button-hole stitch with iiSi^ "Asiatic Roman" Floss. No. » 2002. pattern 395 B. jyjj^j^g pendant jewel in border with 2220 and jewel under it with 2163; next pendant with 2670 and jewel 2621; next pendant with 2522 and jewel 2633. Repeat in same order. Materials — Use Brainerd & Armstrong's "Asiatic Dve" Silks: 3 skeins 2002, I skein 2482, 2 skeins 2220, i skein 2163, 3 skeins 2522, 2 skeins 2065, 2 skeins 2620, 4 skeins 2621, 2 skeins 2633, j skeins 2635, 3 skeins 2670 "Asiatic" Filo; also 4 skeins 2002 "Asiatic Roman" Floss. Pattern 395 C. In order to work the jewels in outer circle, take "Asiatic" Filo No. 2221 and make one whole set of five round jewels, including center with this shade and PATENT HOLDERS ARE EASY TO CARRY ABOUT. 6S the four oblong or pointed jewels of No. 2165. In the next set use 2082 for round ones and 2065 for oblong. The dot above these rosettes is done in 2232 and pointed jewel above this in same shade as round dots in rosette. The pendants of jewels should next be worked. Make all in one pendant of No. 2522, and the next of 2065 and alternate all the way round. All jewels are stuffed very high by working over cotton. A finishing pretty effect is had by taking 2635 and dai-ning, in fine PATTERN 395 c. stitches, all the space outlined inside the ribbon-edged pendant. Border— Button-hole the scallops with "Asiatic Roman" Floss No. 2633. Then with two-thread "Asiatic" Filo No. 2635 outline everything on the pattern except the round dots and the pointed or oval jewels. Materials— The Brainerd & Armstrong's "Asiatic Dye" Silks: 4 skeins 2065, 2 skeins 2221, 3 skeins 2522, 2 skiens 2164, - skeins 2082, i skein 2232, 6 skeins 2635, "Asiatic" Filo; also 5 skeins of 2633, "Asiatic Roman" Floss. Pattern 395 D. The flower is worked solid. The back petals are worked with the darkest Violet on the edge, shading gradually into White at the base. The petals that lap over begin with White, shading to Violet. Make the petals that turn back light on the edges, shading to Violet, using about two or three shades. Vein when necessary in the petals with Violet, No. 2522. Work stamen in Yellow, No. 2014. Leaves— Work the leaves solid, shading lightest at the tip, (barker at the base. In turned leaf, work the light on tip, shading darker on the deepest under part; begin again with lightest Green at the fold, shading gradually to dark at base. Stem of flower work in 2622 solid. Border — Work the scallop in button - hole stitch with "Asiatic Roman" Floss. The dots above the scallop work in 2520, "Asiatic" Filo, having first stuffed them very high with cotton. Then outline each dot with 2521 Filo. 66 THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S Materials — Use Brainerd & Arm- strong's "Asiatic Dye" Silks; 2 skeins 2520, 3 skeins 2521, i skein 2522, 5 skeins 2002, 2 skeins 2620, 2 skeins 2621, 2 skeins 2622, i skein 2623, i skein 2624, i skein 2014; also 4 sKeins of 2002, "Asiatic Roraan"Floss. Pattern 395 E. PATTERN 395 U. Work the large scallops in White, No. 2002, "Asiatic Roman" Floss, with button-hole stitch, to the first line; use White, "Asiatic" Filo, raised high for the loop. The scroll should be outlined in No. 2633, "Asiatic" Filo. Fill between the lines with small seed stitches, and make the dots in this scroll work with 2521, "Asiatic" Filo. In the stars work the oblong jewels white 2671, and the round jewels in the center with 2621 ; next star work ob- long jewels 2220, and round jewels with 2164. All jewels are outlined with same shade they are worked with and stuffed high. Border — Work small scallop with cluster of jewels in button-hole on1:he edge, with "Asiatic Roman" Floss, No. 2633; work into that "Asiatic" Filo, 2635, then 2631, shading to the depth of an inch. The center PATTERN 395 E. jewel in the cluster work is 2521. The jewels round this work alternate with 2065 and 2621. Materials— Use Brainerd & Armstrong's "Asiatic Dye" Silks: 3 skeins 2671, I skein 2164, 2 skeins 2521, 2 skeins 2220, i skein 2065, 2 skeins 2621, 1 skein 2002, i skein 2631, 4 skeins 2633, 2 skeins 2635, "Asiatic" Filo ; also 3 fckeins 2002, 2 skeins 2633, "Asiatic Roman" Floss. PATENT HOLDERS SAVE UNTIEING KNOTS AND 67 UNSNARLING TANGLES. Pattern 395 F. In the large scallop, button-hole the edge with 2481, "Asiatic Roman" Floss, and work into it "Asiatic" Fxlo, 2002, long and short stitch, with one thread. Cluster in center work solid ; the oblong jewel work in 2483, and the round jewels work with 2481. In the festoon of jewels the largest one in the center work with 2481 ; alter- nate jewels 24S3, then 24S1. Passing to pendant of jewels (this is not shown in the illustration), work next to the center one in 2483, next in 2484. Chain should be outlined with 2481, and jewels with their own shade. Stuff and raise the jewels high with cotton before working. Border — Work scallop forming fluer-de-lis in button-hole stitch with "Asiatic Roman" Floss, No, 2002. Work into that "Asiatic" Filo, No. 2481, one thread, long and short stitch, only at top and bottom. Lines should be outlined with same shade. Dots at each end of fluer-de-lis work solid with 2484. The three center dots work in 2483 ; two others alternate in 2483 and 2484. Materials — Use Brainerd & Armstrong's "Asiatic Dye" Silks: 4 skeins 2481, 3 skeins 2483, 3 skeins 2484, 3 skeins 2002, "Asiatic" Filo; also 5 skeins 2481, 3 skeins 2002, "Asiatic Roman" Floss. pattern 395 F. ^<^^^^ Dinjections FoiT Cut A^ork. HERE has been, lately, much interest taken in cut work, Venetian embroidery and Roman embroidery, all of which are but the same style of work under different names. In the present article we shall endeavor to give minute directions, that any who may be interested in this branch of work may, by the aid of these directions and the references to the illustrations, be able to work the patterns with en- tire satisfaction to themselves. The first consideration is, of course, the mate- rial tp be used, which should be firm and not ravel easily ; this being procured, and the pattern having been stamped upon it, the next thing is to stretch the work in a frame, or small hoops, which are more convenient than the frame, in that they are more easily held when working ; or another expedi- ent is to baste the material to a stiff paper, if neither frame nor hoops are to be had. Then, first, the filling stitches are put in ; and these will be more readily un- der stood from our cut. The stems it will be seen are worked in cat-' stitching exactly as illustration no. 39. PATENT HOLDERS PLEASE EMBROIDERERS. 69 ILLUSTRATION NO. 4O. the seams of a flannel skirt are stitched flat ; some of the spaces are filled with lattice work, some with French knots and others with detached sprigs of briar stitching. Any other stitches that fancy dictates may be equally well used. By trying these separate stitches on a small scrap of material, one will easily learn the most convenient as well as the most economical manner of executing them. After all the spaces of the part of the work in the frame have been filled with these stitches, the buttonholing of the outline is begun. This is accom- plished either with or without the aid of a cord or small, flat braid. When the braid or cord is used, it is laid along the outline, and caught into place by buttonhole stitches at small intervals, perhaps one-sixteenth of an inch apart. When the cord or braid is not used, the buttonhole stitches are set quite close together. The bars which connect the different parts of the pattern and serve to hold it together after ' the intervening material is cut away are worked at the same time as the buttonholing — that is, a short portion of the buttonholing is worked until the place for a bar is reached, and then, without cutting the thread, it is passed. across where the bar is to be, caught at the other side and twisted back to the place of beginning ; the buttonholing is then continued until another bar is necessary. In this waj' the awkwardness of passing the thread from one bar to another is wholly avoided and the work is neater. Some ladies, instead of twisting the thread back for these bars, work back to the place of starting with buttonhole stitches on the single thread. This method makes a rather heavier bar, and is to be preferred in very open patterns. Where small rings are introduced, they are worked separately beforehand, and held in position while the connecting bars are worked. The manner of making these rings is as fol- lows : The thread is first wrapped once or twice around something of suitable size — a lead pencil is a good size for large rings, and a small crochet needle will answer for smaller ones — and after being slipped off the pencil carefully, the ring is either buttonholed or crocheted over all around, thus making it quite substantial. Small rings may also be worked at the intersection of the bars. After the work is entirely completed, the portions to be cut away are removed by means of sharp scissors, the cutting being done on the wrong side, ILLUSTRATION NO. 4I. 7° THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO.'S and, of course, great care must be taken not to cut any of the bare or other work. These directions are minute, for the purpose of assisting any who may not have perfectly understood the manner of working from former articles on the same subject. And if the process is not perfectly clear on reading the directions, it would probably become so if a small piece of work is begun and the directions followed ; each step will then be clear as one comes to it. ILLUSTRATION NO. 42. The pattern would be very handsome worked on silk sheeting. Thus worked it would form an elegant center for a plush sofa cushion, and for this purpose the center of the square should be cut out, and in order to do this the braid on the inside of the square should be buttonholed both ways. When used as an applique for a sofa cushion it could form a frame for initials or other embroidery. Worked on cream linen it would form a striking decoration for dark blue Bolton sheeting, denim or plush. Cash Prizes p2b OLD HOLDERS. IN ADDITION TO ALL THE ^'""^ ^^ OTHER PREHIUMS OFFERED FOR HOLDERS We shall give the following Cash Prizes on December ist, 1899, to those who, up to Nov. 1st, 1899, have returned us the Largest Number of Wash Silk Holders. Holders from any of our " Asiatic Dye" silks count the same, that is, it makes no difference whether the Holder is from our " Asiatic" Etching Silk, " Asiatic" Filo or any other of our Wash Silks. When Holders are sent to us we will give you the Premiums offea-ed on the preceding pages, according to the offers there, if you specify definitely at the time, which premiums you wish. They must be ordered when you send the Holders, and not long after the Holders have been returned to us. We will also credit you the same Holders to count for these Cash Prizes. All these Cash Prizes will be given to those who return us the largest number of Holders previous to Nov. ist, 1899, that is, up to and including Oct. 31st, 1899. They may be sent in any time after Nov. ist, 1897. All must be received previous to Nov. ist, 1899, and all must be addressed to The Brainerd & Arm- strong Co., 99 Union Street, New London, Conn. To person returning largest number, First Prize, $50, $50.00 To person returning next largest number. Second Prize, $25, - 25.00 To 4 persons returning next largest numbers, $10 each, - 40. 06 To IS " " " " " $ S " - 75.00 To 30 " " " " " $ 2 " - - 60.00 To 50 " " , " " " $ I " 50.00 101 prizes in aU, amounting to $3oo.oo October 22d, 1894. " I think your new Skein Holder is a very great improvement and a much needed one, as the silk was almost sure to be wasted the other way." Mrs. J. B, S., Lansdowne, Pa. The Brainerd & Armstrong Silk Co., 99 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. k'%^'%^'%/%/%^%^%^^%%^%^%/% iANew I Embroidery I Hoop . . . -OF- Hard Rubber Highly Polished Iil> t Floss. ^j^ This "Asiatic Caspian" Floss is specially suited for scallop ^ ^1^ work on Doyleys and Centrepieces, as well as for darning and cross- "^^ '^ stitching. It is dyed in the following shades, as snown in Brainerd ^k. & Armstrong's New 1898 Shade Card : .^T ^Br- Yellow — 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018. -^^ ^j^ Qrape— 2300, 2301, 2302, 2303. x^^ ^^ Blue — 20303,2030,2031,20313,2032. >5c Pink— 2470 a, 2470, 2471, 2^72, 2473, 2474. jj^ Brown — 2160, 2160b, 2161, 2162, 2163, 2163a, 2164, 2165. "^^ Red— 2150a, 2150, 2150b, 2151, 2152, 2153, 2154. .^ Olive — 2560, 2561, 2562, 2563, 2564, 2565. ^1^ ^. Pansy— 2520, 2521, 2522, 2522 a, 2523. .^ ''^ Old Blue — 2710,2711,2712,2713,2714. ^ ^r- Pearl White— 2001. Pure White— 2002. -^' 1' Cream White — 2003. ,., ^ 1 ^ ^ ALL ART NEEDLEWORKERS ARE PLEASED WITH THE NEW THREAD. * ^ ^^ One Sample Skein only, any color, together with one of our ~^^ ^ new "Blue Books," giving directions for embroidering over 170 ^ JBr- flowers, fruits and leaves, sent to any address for three two-ceht -^^ ■'. stamps. Address '^^ ^ THE BRA/NERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO., ^ n1/ 100 Union St., New London, Conn. ~^/ ART FABRICS CUT UP IN SQUARES. 25 X 25 in., for Cushions and Table Covers. 30 X 30 in., for Table Covers. 50 X 5o in., for Table Covers. 20 X 60 in., for Table and Bureau Scarfs. Prices are as follows: SQUARES OF FIGURED TERRY. 25 inches by 2S inches, $ 85 I 50 inches bj 50 inches, $3-45 30 inches by 30 inches, 1.25 | 20 inches by 60 inches, " 1.65 Sir,K SHEETING AND COUNTERPANE GOODS. 24 inches by 24 inches, - $1.00 I 48 inches by 48 inches, - $400 36 inches by 36 inches, 2.00 ). 24 inches by 72 inches, - 2.70 Send 10 Cents in Stamps for a Line of Samples. The above tat>ies Bhow the sizes of some special squares in Figured Terry, Silk Sheeting and Counterpane Qoods. We cannot cut these goods into squares of other dimensions. In case you desire squares of other sizes we would refer you to the following, where the price is quoted by the yard : SILK SHEETING— Made in Ecru, Old Blue, Pink, Nile, Old Rose, Green, Black, White, 72 inch width, $4.00 per yard. Made in Nile, Pink, Ecru, White, 24 inch width, $1.50 per yard. FIQURED TERRY— Made in Old Gold, Old Rose, Sage Green, Ecru, New Red, Bismark, Old Blue, Black, Cream, White, 50 inch width, $2.50 per yard. COUNTERPANES— Made in Old Blue, Nile, Old Rose, Bismark, Ecru, White, 72 inch width, $4;oo per yard. COTTON CANVAS— Made in Old Blue, Pongee, Dark Blue, Yellow, Red, Brown, Olive, Old Rose, Light Blue, Old Gold, Red, White, Plain Pattern, 72 inch width, $i.oo per yard. Made in White and Ecru, Fancy Pattern, 72 inch width, $ 1. 10 per yard. 99 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. Our New Sample Card for 1898. SHOWS 380 COLORS in which our Wash Silks are made, also samples of each of the following threads : ' Asiatic " Filo Silk Floss or ' ' Asiatic " Filo. 'Asiatic Roman" Floss. ' Asiatic Art Rope " Silk. 'Asiatic" Twisted Embroidery. 'Asiatic " Rope Silk. 'Asiatic Honiton Lace " Silk. 'Asiatic" Etching Silk or Outline Silk. 'Asiatic Parian" Floss. 'Asiatic Caspian " Floss. ' Asiatic Mediseva.l " Silk. ' Asiatic " Couching Silk. 'Victoria" Knitting and Crochet Silk. ' Hamburg" Knitting Silk. 'B. & A." Crochet Silk. 'Star" Crochet Silk. 'Whip Cord Twist" Crochet Silk PRICE 20 CENTS. THIS CARD WILL ENABLE YOU to see at a glance what shades are made, and to decide upon those best suited to your work. If you have this card you can order our silks by number from your own storekeeper, or, where you cannot get them in your ow^n city, from a more remote dealer who carries a full line of our goods. WE MAIL THIS COLOR CARD to any lady for 20 cents, in stamps, although it costs us much more than this amount. The reason we are willing to send it at this low price is because we have found from past experience that any lady who once has our card and uses our silks will always thereafter insist on having Brainerd *& Arm- strong's Wash Silks and will take no other. We send this card to any addrsss for 20 cents or for 20 of our Patent Holders and 10c. to cover postage and wrapping. The Brainerd 8l Armstrong Spool Silk Co. 99 Union St., New London, Conn. EMBROIDERY SILK. ONE DOLLAR'S WORTH FOR 40 CENTS. 40 Cents Will Buy One Ounce of Our sure ky-r^llQJ^-^^ |-K-f Factory Ends, Odd Lengths and Assorted ^Ull»l»ld UI Colors", and is sold at less than half the price of regular skein Embroidery. IL IS pill up One ounce in a box, all ready to be mailed. %-l- iQ crklH 40 cents a box. One ounce sent postpaid on receipt ■ L 13 3\JIU of price. A Club order for 5 ounces, with $2 remit- tance at one time, will entitle you to one ounce extra without charge. This Silk is not intended for fine work on Wash riaterials. Inasmuch as there is likely to be some of our Plain Embroidery Silk — which is dyed by the old process— among the other silk in these packages, we cannot guarantee that any of it will stand washing. NOTICE!— WHAT WE CANNOT DO. We cannot assort any particular shades ; we cannot sell less than one-half ounce. Address THE BRAINERD & ARHSTRONQ CO., 99 UNION ST., NEW LONDON, CONN. T^ ART INTERCHANGE ONE YEAR $4 With Premium FOR 1897 Will Hurpaes all former volumee. The aim will be to maictain its preHent high position as the foremost art and household monthly magazine published. The remarkable success of this popular mag- azine is due to the great care and pains taken in every department to meet, in a thorough and conscientious manner, the wants of its patrons, and its constantly increasing subscription list is the highest mark of appreciation of our efforts. No Home Complete Without It SIX MONTHS $2 Single Copies 35 CENTS Fine Art Decorative Art InduBtrial Art Biographies of Artists Illustration Sketching Fainting in Gil and Water Colors Wood Carving Photography China Fainting Art Criticism Ceramics modeling in Clay Architectural Flans Artistic Photography Home Decoration Embroidery Art Notes and News Etc., Etc. THRBE SLEEPY KITTEXtJ, OUColors. UizelOxlTln. Given i^iththcChristmas <189S) Number. Price, 25a. if sold Binglj. During the coming year subscribers will have the benefit of many specially attractive features, which have been arranged for, regudlesa of expense to the publishers. The color studies to be 'given will be superior to any heretofore issued, and will emorace an unusual variety of the best subjects from the studios of leading artists They will be chosen with a view to meeting every purpose, whether ss models for copying or for wall iiecoration. EVERY number of tais oldest and best househo d ma^. zine is lavishiy illustrated and is accompanied by superb fac-similics of oil and w&ter color paintings, and large extra design sujppxniei ts for a.l branches of Aome decor- ation. Subscriptions may begin at any time, or your dealer can Buppfyyou. Yearly, $4.00; trial, three mon^if $1.00; single copies, 35 cents. For only 25 ota ''ill he sent to everyone mentioning this book, a specimen copy of the ART INTERCHANGE with two design supplements and the two exquisite color plates shown in this advertisement. BDPERB STUDY OP CHaTSANTHEMUMS, Water ColorB. Bj Paul de Lonrpre. 8i«e, 8 1^ x 36 inchea GlvBn with the ChriHtmafl (1896) Number. Prioe, 50 oents, if sold Bingly. SUBSCRIBE NOW FOR 1897 AND SECURE ONE OF THE SPECIAL OFFERS HADE BELOW The following unusual offers are made to every reader of this book, subscribing promptly for 1 897. The full amount of $4 must be sent dfirect to us with choice of premium clearly specified, so as to avoid confusion in fillingyour order. For $4 you will receive The Art Interchange for 1897, and will get in addition. FREf:, the six months' numbers, from Julv to December, 1896, inclusive, accompanied ay all the beautiful color and other supplements. By taking advantage of this offer NOW ^ou get 18 months, which include our Thanksgiving, Xmas, and other specially attractive numbers, for $4.00 — with 36 color pictures and 36 design supplements. The color studies include our Violets, Fansies, Chrysanthemums, Kittens, Land- sca^j^. Marines, Figures, Dog's Head, etc., making . most charming variety, worth in any art store from $8 to $15 alone. This is an exceptionally liberal offer, and to secure full advantage of it you must lose no time in subscribing. * Or, if you prefer china designs, instead of above offer, we will send you as a premium^ FREE, a choice collection of 20 sheets, containing a great variety of beautiful designs in color for china painting. SPECIAL TRIAL OFFER For $1,00 will be sent to every one mentioning the 1896 Needle Work, 6 attractive Numbers <3 The Art Interchange, all beautifully illustrated and full of most valuable information on art matters and practical suggestions in all branches of Home Decorations, together with 12 design supplements and 1 2 superb oil and water color pictures. This generous offer includes our exquisite companion pictures, Pansies,T;hrysanthemums (shown above), Roses, and Violets, each 8 x 35 inches in size, and embraces landscapes, figures, etc. The pictures alone, at catalogue prices, sell for ^S'/S- They make beautiful subjects for framing, and are admirably adapted for copying. Order Now before the supply is exhausted. Every one sending for this generous offer has the privilege of subscnbing for a full year at only $3.00. General catalogue and prospectus for 1897 sent for 2-cent stamp. THE art INTERCHANQE, 152 W. 23d Street, New York. Established in 1856. Potted Meats, Lunch Meats, Boneless Hams, Rolled Ox Tongue, Game, Curried Fowl, BONED TURKEY, BONED CHICKEN. Truffled Chicken Livers, Soups, Plum Pudding, Extra Quality Peaches and Pears, &c. 49-No solder used inside the can. No acid ever used in soldering the Cans. We make no pretension to cheap prices, but guarantee the quality of every Can. Sold by all fiist-dass Grocers. RICHARDSON & ROBBINS, Dover, Del. PHYSON'S INK. BoTT+i in£)euble.! THE OLDEST! Testimony Over 60 Years All Family and Personal Linen should be Indelibly marked, and nothing is so Reliable and Satisfactory as PKYSON'S INK. Established in 1834. The name of Parson's has been a " Household Wordi' for over halt a century. A single letter even saves confusion in sorting clothing and often prevents loss. THE " ORIGINAL BRIQQS CRYSTAL MARKING PEN," Established over 30 years, will be found convenient for Coarse Marking. Price 25 Cents PAYSON'S COMBINATION contains i bottle Payson's Ink and i Briggs Pen. Price 50c. Payson'g Ink Separate. Price 25c. The above sold by druggists and stationers everyvirhere. If your dealer does not keep them, they vifill be sent at the above prices, postpaid, by A. L. WILLISTON, Manufacturer, Payson's Ink received the Highest Award Medal and Diploma, at the Cen- tennial, Philadelphia, 1876; World's Fair, Chicago, 1893. fe%%%%%%%^%%>%^%%%%^%'%%%%%^/«!%%%%' J i %%%^ PRIZES SKiZE YOUR HOLDERS. WE OFFER THE FOLLOWING FRIZES FREE FOR OUR WASH SILK HOLDERS : 1. Our New Dojiey and Centrepiece Book. 2. Our Latest Sample Card. 3. Our Art Needlework Book. 4. Our Popular Blue Book. 5. Our Crochet Booklet. 6. Our Catalogue and Waste Emb'y Book. 7. The Large Picture, "Can't You Talk.?" 8, Half ounce package Waste Em- broidery Silk. 9. Plain Embroidery Silk (not fast colors). 10. A Large Line Stamped Linens. 11. A Linen Centrepiece. I.;. Our Jewel Book. 13. Our Delft Book, 14. Ovir Rose Book. 15. Our Bohemian Glass Book. 16. Our Chafing Dish Book. ? J iZ: S300.00 INCHSH. For particulars see pages opposite 32, 33 and 70 inside this book. THE BRAINERD & ARMSTRONG SILK CO., iJfte S^raii^erc^ ^