P^Jl 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SB 413.C55G23 
 
 Modern chrysanthemum '="''"',^,,!,?|™,n,'"'' 
 3 1924 002 803 165 ™. 
 

Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tiiis book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002803165 
 
MODERN 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM 
 
 CULTURE 
 
 FOR THE MILLION. 
 
 A Handbook tor the Amatehe and Cottage Gahdbnek • 
 
 By GEORGE GARNEE, 
 
 SILVEE MEDALLIST FOR HIGH-CLASS CHRYSANTHEMUM, 
 
 VEGETABLE AND FRUIT CULTURE; HEAD GARDENER 
 
 TO A. C. DRUMMOND, ESQ., CADLAND PARK, 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON. 
 
 Mltb illustrations. 
 
 LIVEEPOOL : 
 BLAKE & MACKENZIE, PRINTEES AND PUBLISHERS. 
 
 1897. 
 
 [all ItlQHIS BEaEAVUD— COPYRIGHT.] 
 
 9 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 THE writer of this work is well known to the 
 undersigned as a most "successful grower of 
 Chrysanthemums. Any information from his pen 
 cannot fail to be of service, and if the details contained 
 in this most useful book be acted upon success will be 
 assured. I have known the author for many years, and 
 must admit I have never met with a grower of this 
 popular plant who has devoted more care and study to 
 master their requirements than he has. From taking 
 cuttings to the flowering stages, he is equally keen. 
 As a grower or exhibitor ; when residing in this 
 neighbourhood, he had no equal (note the principal 
 prizes he has won). His awards, when acting as judge 
 at exhibitions are seldom questioned, this duty being 
 made easy for him by his own practical knowledge. 
 The work will be hailed with delight by all who have 
 a love for, and a desire to further the interest in. 
 Chrysanthemum culture. Particularly do I recom- 
 mend it to amateurs, young beginners, and market 
 growers. 
 
 ALFEED SKINNER. 
 
 HiGHCLiFFE Estate, 
 
 Christchukch, Hants. 
 
PRINCIPAL 
 PRIZES WON BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 Two Silver Cups, open to all England. 
 
 Two FlKST-CLASS CERTIFICATES. 
 
 Four Medals, and many First Prizes 
 at some of the leading exhibitions 
 in the Country. 
 
INTEODUCTION. 
 
 THE enthusiasm inspired by this deservedly popular 
 flower instead of diminishing increases yearly. 
 Amateurs and Cottagers are now taking a keener interest 
 in the cultivation and exhibiting of Chrysanthemums 
 than formerly, and although this little book is written 
 chiefly for those who grow the plants for exhibition, 
 both large and small growers will find the instructions 
 embodied in its pages a help to them, as the only 
 difference between growing for exhibition and for 
 home use is solely that the plants in the latter case 
 are, as a rule, grown more bushy in shape to produce 
 a larger number of smaller blooms. But in many 
 instances large blooms of first-class quality are coveted 
 for conservatory decoration at home, and in all cases, 
 if the right methods be not adopted, such blooms 
 are not forthcoming, notwithstanding all the labour 
 which may have been bestowed upon the plants to 
 bring about that result. 
 
 We have endeavoured to give in this book what 
 we consider the most important essentials (which we 
 
have found to be absolutely necessary in our own 
 practical experience) in the routine of culture and 
 general management of the plants and flowers, in 
 as few words as possible. 
 
 The attention of our readers is especially directed 
 to the growing custom of exhibiting groups of 
 Chrysanthemums with and without foliage plants, 
 and also of cut blooms of Chrysanthemums and 
 autumn - tinted foliage, for effect. Some of the 
 arrangements which have come under our notice 
 have, indeed, been charming, and the large number 
 of people who gather around and admire them 
 testifies to the popularity of such exhibits. 
 
 We would like to encourage the use of Chrysan- 
 themums as summer bedding plants in large gardens, 
 especially where there are large borders to be filled 
 up. As dot plants in long borders, as clumps by 
 themselves, and as odd plants in the cottager's garden, 
 Chrysanthemums are most useful. Further, we would] 
 desire to say that exhibitors of some experience may 
 find hints and reminders in this little book which 
 will be a help to them in carrying out the work' 
 which they all love so well. 
 
 The history of the Chrysanthemum is not dealt| 
 with in these pages, but only the culture, and that 
 is given in plain language — such as we hope will 
 be understood by all growers. 
 
 G. G. 
 
Group of Chrysanthemums. 
 
INDEX 
 
 FAQE. 
 
 Anemone Chryaanthemums... 61 
 
 Arrangement of blooms 43 
 
 of blooms and foliage ... 49 
 
 of a group of plants 48 
 
 Blooms, arranging on boards.. 43 
 
 dressing opening 40 
 
 final dressing of 43 
 
 labelling 45 
 
 preserving expanded ... 42 
 
 staging 46 
 
 taking to shows 46 
 
 Boards, arrangingbloomson... 43 
 Bushes, topping plan tsjto form 6 
 branch_of, not disbudded 11 
 
 Compost for first potting 4 
 
 for second potting 8 
 
 for final potting 19 
 
 Crown Bud, to secure taking. 31 
 
 swelling 33 
 
 Cuttings, illustrations of 1, 2 
 
 Damping of the petals 38 
 
 Dressing opening blooms 40 
 
 of the blooms, final 43 
 
 Early Chrysanthemums 63 
 
 Feeding 28 
 
 Fire heat 37 
 
 Flowering buds, securing the.. 31 
 
 '- retarding the 34 
 
 Frames, plants in 5 
 
 Group of Chrysanthemums ... vii. 
 
 Incurved Chrysanthemums ... 57 
 
 Queen of England .. 7 
 
 Jap. William Falconer... 51 
 
 Indoors, Chrysanthemums ... 35 
 Insects 26 
 
 Japanese Anemone Chrysan- 
 themums 60 
 
 Chrysanthemums 52 
 
 Yellow Dragon ... 18 
 
 FACE. 
 
 Japanese Chrysanthemum, 
 
 Golden Thread 47 
 
 Madame Carnot ... 23 
 
 Judging 50 
 
 Labelling the blooms 45 
 
 Market, Chrysanthemums for 63 
 
 treatment of plants for... 11 
 
 Mildew 26 
 
 Open-air, placing the plants in 14 
 Open borders, planting in 9 
 
 Petals, damping of the 38 
 
 Pompon Chrysanthemums ... 61 
 
 Anem. Chrysanthemums 62 
 
 Potting, first 4 
 
 second 8 
 
 intermediate 14 
 
 final 19 
 
 Preserving expanded blooms ... 42 
 Propagation 1 
 
 Eeflexed Chrysanthemums ... 60 
 EtoiledeLyon ...39 
 
 Shows, taking the blooms to. . . 46 
 
 Single Chrysanthemums 62 
 
 Staging blooms and foliage ... 49 
 
 blooms on boards 46 
 
 Summer Chrysanthemums ... 62 
 months, treatment in ... 2t 
 
 Table of management 52 
 
 Terminal bud, taking 32 
 
 Top dressing 30 
 
 Topping plants to form bushes 6 
 
 Treatment, first potting 4 
 
 second potting 8 
 
 intermediate potting 14 
 
 final potting 19 
 
 during summer months.. 24 
 
 of Incurved varieties ...67 
 
 of Japanese varieties ... 62 
 
 Ventilation 37 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 PEOPAGATION. 
 
 WE are not in favour of rooting the cuttings of 
 Chrysanthemums too early, especially if handsome 
 looking plants with a large number of blooms is the 
 desire of the grower. Late varieties should be rooted in 
 December, and the earlier ones in January and February. 
 Select the strongest cuttings — not the soft, sappy ones, 
 but those which are sturdy in growth and have no bud 
 showing in the point. Take off each cutting just under 
 
 or above the soil in the pot 
 (not oS the old stem of the 
 plant, except in cases of 
 necessity), and under a joint, 
 afterwards removing the leaf 
 from that joint also. Have 
 the compost in which it is 
 intended to root the cuttings 
 in readiness, and pots 2J 
 inches in diameter (washed 
 clean inside and out). As 
 soil used for the purpose of 
 rooting will be retained 
 throughout the season, it is 
 important that it be of good 
 quality. Loam and leaf 
 mould, in equal proportions, 
 with sufficient sand to make 
 
 Showing a Chrysanthemum cutting ^V,- rnasa nr^rnna in siiit.aVilp 
 Inserted singly in athumb pot. with coarA '^°® ^^^^ porOUS, IS SUltaDle. 
 
 rcSt"™?*"^;%*'„%XX™.K?.* Manure in any form at this 
 ""our^osZ"""' """""•*' ^"^ "'""■'•'■" stage is not needed. 
 
2 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 Crock the pots with one piece of broken potsherd, 
 and a little dry moss ; fill them with the prepared soil, 
 scatter a small quantity of sand on the surface, make a 
 hole with a small blunt dibber in the centre, and insert 
 the cuttings. One in each pot is sufficient, and make 
 the soil firm around it. Sprinkle a little more sand over 
 
 Showing cuttings inserted around the side of the pot. Best adopted 
 for grouiing the plants as bushes, and for market. 
 
 the top of the soil in the pots, water gently but thoroughly, 
 and place the pots in a cool frame on a hard bed of coal 
 ashes, or plunge the pots to the rim in the ashes. If a 
 cool frame is not available, the pots may be stood on a 
 stage close to the glass in a greenhouse or vinery. Boxes 
 in lieu of movable frames will answer the purpose if they 
 
Chhtsanthemum Culture for the Million. 3 
 
 are 9 inches deep, and squares of glass are placed on the 
 top. The aim should be to keep the cuttings air-tight 
 till they are rooted, as they will then strike more quickly 
 than if allowed to flag. 
 
 Occasionally sprinkle the cuttings over-head with tepid 
 water to keep them fresh. Wipe the glass and the inside 
 of the frame dry, daily. If the soil in the pots becomes 
 too dry, water thoroughly with tepid rain water. Shade 
 from bright sunshine. 
 
 Some varieties will root sooner than others. When 
 the cuttings are sufficiently rooted, remove them to another 
 frame, or shelf, where they will be exposed to the full 
 light. Guard against frost. At this stage from 40 to 
 45 degrees of heat should be maintained. Avoid high 
 temperatures at all stages of growth, as Chrysanthemums 
 are not benefited, but weakened, by forcing, or an undue 
 closeness of atmosphere after they are rooted. Sturdy 
 growth should be encouraged — short jointed, showing 
 plenty of strength. Label each variety correctly, and 
 make a list of each section, stating the number of cuttings 
 put in (which should always be a little in excess of what 
 is finally required), so that a selection of the strongest 
 and best rooted plants may be made. 
 
 -^<^a^fmu^ 
 
 -^DO 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 FIRST POTTING, 
 
 PRINCIPAL PARTS OF COMPOST. 
 
 Loam. 
 
 Soot. 
 
 Leaf soil. 
 
 Wood ashes 
 
 Horse manure. 
 
 Sand. 
 
 Size of pots, 3J inches. 
 
 THOSE plants which are sufficiently rooted will need 
 re-potting during the latter part of February and 
 early in March. A mixture of one half good loam, one 
 quarter leaf soil, one quarter horse manure (which has 
 been partially heated in a heap to expel some of the rank 
 steam, is the best for this potting), and a 6-inch potful 
 of soot and one of wood ashes to every barrow-load of 
 the above parts, with a sufficient quantity of coarse sand 
 to make the whole mass porous, will constitute a suitable 
 potting soil. We do not advocate the use of artificial 
 manures in any form at the first potting. 
 
 Presuming that the plants have been in 2^ineh pots, 
 those which are 3|- inch in diameter should now be used. 
 Wash the pots quite clean — particularly so inside ; also 
 wash the crocks that are to be used as drainage. Both 
 pots and crocks must be quite dry. Place one large crock 
 or oyster shell over the hole in the bottom, then a few 
 small ones, following on with a few half-decayed leaves. 
 The leaves will prevent the fine soil from being washed 
 down and clogging the drainage, and the roots of the 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 5 
 
 plants will soon fasten upon them. The soil must be in 
 a nice moist condition, but not too wet. After the work 
 of potting is completed stand the plants in a cool frame 
 on a bed of ashes, about 15 inches from the glass. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE PLANTS IN FRAMES. 
 
 Keep the frame close for a few days after placing 
 the repotted plants in it. Shade them slightly from very 
 bright sunshine. Water sparingly at first; a light syringing 
 each day, at noon, if the sun is bright will be beneficial 
 to the plants. When the danger of severe flagging of 
 the leaves is over, and the weather permits, give a little 
 air and cease shading. If mildew is observed on the 
 plants, rub flour of sulphur on the afiected parts with 
 the thumb and fingers. 
 
 Grow the plants as hardy as, possible, admitting air on 
 all favourable occasions, but avoid subjecting them to 
 draughts. They will at this stage make rapid progress in 
 growth, and no check must occur. During the bright 
 sunny days which will at this time of the year become 
 more frequent, great care and attention will be required 
 in the management of Chrysanthemum plants. 
 
 Being in small pots, and the sun shining strongly 
 upon them, the soil soon becomes dry, and flagging of 
 the foliage results. It will be advisable to examine the 
 plants several times each day and water any which may 
 require it, rather than leave them till a fixed time and 
 then water all indiscriminately. Use tepid rain water. If 
 hot water from a boiler or other vessel is not available 
 for warming the water in bulk before using it, keep a 
 large can full in the frame in which the plants are growing, 
 the water will thus always be of the same temperature 
 
6 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 as that in the frames. By adopting this simple plan, 
 risk of check to the growth of the plants will be greatly 
 lessened. Should mildew appear on the leaves, apply 
 flour of sulphur as before advised. Spells of bright 
 sunshine and cold winds are generally followed by black 
 and green fly, which infests the points of the shoots, and 
 if not eradicated they soon cripple the plants. Tobacco 
 powder lightly sprinkled on them while the plants are damp 
 will quickly clear out the enemy. Afterwards syringe the 
 powder ofif with clean water, which will greatly benefit 
 the plants. Some of the tallest of the plants will now 
 require slender stakes to support them. Due allowance 
 must be made for the swelling and lengthening of the 
 stems of the plants, therefore do not tie the ligatures too 
 tight. Pay regular attention to airing, and when the 
 weather is favourable take the lights off altogether. The 
 climatic conditions are not favourable when the sun is 
 warm, and at the same time a cold east wind is blowing ; 
 more harm than good would be done to the plants if the 
 lights are removed under such circumstances. Tilt the 
 lights so as to avoid draughts, and wait for more genial 
 weather before exposing the plants fully. 
 
 TOPPINa PLANTS TO POEM BUSHES. 
 If it is the intention of the grower to eventually 
 possess a large plant with many blooms, the point of 
 each one should be taken off when the plants are about 
 6 inches high, say in February. Three or four new shoots 
 will grow afterwards, these will in due time produce a bud, 
 each of which should forthwith be removed. Three more 
 young growths may be selected from each parent shoot 
 and trained to stakes. After the points of the shoots have 
 
; Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 7 
 
 been removed, the soil in the pots should be kept somewhat 
 drier until fresh growth begins. Thus one plant will 
 produce a much larger number of flowers, but of course 
 smaller than would be the case if only one stem was retained 
 till the first natural break, and from that period three more 
 only, to produce as many blooms. The potting, tying, 
 feeding, and general treatment in other matters of bush- 
 grown plants should be much the same as that advised for 
 those grown for the production of large blooms only, 
 excepting the pinching out of side shoots which on the 
 latter must be promptly removed as fast as they appear. 
 
 Queen of England, Blush, Inc. 
 
8 Chrysanthemum Cultdee for the Million. 
 
 SECOND POTTING. 
 
 PRINCIPAL PABTS OF COMPOST. 
 
 Loam. 
 Leaf soil. 
 Horse manure. 
 
 Finely ground Bones. 
 
 Soot. 
 
 Ordinary wood ashes. 
 
 Chrysanthemum ashes. 
 Size of pots, 5 and 6 inch. 
 
 WE have just described how to top plants which it is 
 intended shall be grown on to form bushes. These 
 plants will now be in the right condition to re-pot. In 
 most cases the plants in the general collection will be 
 in 3J-inch pots, and will require to be shifted into 5-inch 
 and 6-inch ones. Put the weaker growing varieties into 
 the former, and the strongest into the latter size. A 
 richer compost may, with advantage, be used at this 
 re-potting. A suitable mixture will be the following, viz. : 
 fresh loam — with the grass in it just decayed — pulled in 
 pieces, and the finest soil sifted out. Sweet leaf soil and 
 sand jshould be added to the above in the following 
 proportions, viz. : two parts loam, one part leaf soil, and 
 one part old mushroom bed manure, or fresh horse manure ; 
 a 6-inch potful of ground bones, one of soot, and one of 
 wood ashes, to every barrow-load of compost. If the 
 stems of the old Chrysanthemums are burnt, and a 3-inch 
 potful of the ashes also added, the plants will be much 
 benefited, and the foliage will assume a darker green colour 
 and have more substance in it. Mix all the parts together 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 9 
 
 and keep the compost in a shed, for if wetted with rain 
 it will clog together and form a mass in the pots, which 
 the young roots will not readily penetrate. Pot more 
 firmly than hitherto, using clean pots and have sound 
 drainage in them. All plants which are, up to this stage, 
 without the support of stakes should have some placed 
 to them forthwith and be neatly tied. Return the plants 
 when potted to the frames, and treat them as advised 
 at the last potting. 
 
 The variety, Mrs. Alpheus Hardy (a white, hairy, and 
 delicate sort), must have pots smaller than the above 
 mentioned to grow in, and should be potted in one part 
 loam and two parts leaf soil, with which plenty of sand 
 and a small quantity of old mortar have been mixed. 
 No manure must be used in the soil in which this variety 
 is grown ; also pot less firmly. It is more satisfactory if 
 grown in a cool greenhouse during the summer months. 
 
 PLANTING CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN OPEN BORDERS. 
 Some varieties are most useful for planting out of doors 
 where they will flower freely. Flora, deep yellow; very 
 free-flowering. This is a Pompon variety and flowers early. 
 Other Pompon varieties suitable are M. W. Piercy, orange- 
 red, 2 J feet high ; Prederic Marronet, bronze, 2 feet ; Mrs. 
 CuUingford, white, 2 feet; Strathmeath, rose, 2 feet; 
 Pr^oocite, red, 2 feet; Canari, yellow, 18 inches. Suitable 
 Japanese varieties are Madame Desgranges, white ; its sport 
 G. Wermig, yellow, 2 feet; Harvest Home, bronze, 2^ 
 feet; Carrie Denny, amber, 2 feet; M. G. Griinerwald, 
 white, 2 feet ; Goldmine, rich bronze, 2 feet ; Roi des 
 Precoces, deep crimson, 2 feet ; and Ryecroft Glory, rich 
 yellow, 3 feet. These are a selection of varieties which, if 
 
10 Cheysanthemum Cultdee foe the Million. 
 
 planted on sheltered borders, will give a wealth of bloom 
 in the autumn very useful for cutting purposes. 
 
 Where these autumn-flowering sorts are planted out- 
 side, provision should be made to protect them from early 
 frosts, and to facilitate this work we would advise that 
 a place be chosen and the Chrysanthemums planted in 
 groups near to a wall or hedge, on a border facing south, 
 south-west, or west. A temporary covering can then be 
 easily fixed to a rough framework over them. Treat the 
 plants in their early stages of growth the same as the 
 others. Towards the end of April plant them out in 
 the positions as above suggested ; water, mulch, and tie 
 the branches to stakes as required. Neglect in this 
 respect will result in the loss of many branches through 
 breakage by wind and rain, and will also cause them to 
 grow in a very straggling manner. Pinching of the points 
 or side shoots is not necessary, as the aim of the grower 
 will be to produce a large number of neat blooms. 
 
 Excepting in very severe winters, the majority of the 
 plants will survive if left out in the borders where they 
 have flowered, but it is safer to lift the stools (as soon 
 as the flowering stems have been cut off) and place them 
 in a cold frame, in a mixture of leaf soil and loam. 
 Protection from excessive frost may thus be easily afforded 
 to the plants at a minimum of labour, and they will be in 
 good condition for planting out again the following April. 
 
 Before transferring the plants to outside borders all 
 weakly growths should be removed, retaining only the 
 strongest. As a means of securing strong stocky shoots, 
 give air fully on all favourable occasions. Young plants 
 should not be neglected for the sake of old ones, but the 
 stock may be greatly increased by taking care of old 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 11 
 
 stools, and, if need be, dividing them into several 
 portions in the manner just described, instead of allowing 
 them to suflFer through exposure to frosts. Cottagers and 
 
 amateurs who do not 
 possess greenhouses 
 need not despair of 
 having a nice show of 
 Chrysanthemums in 
 the early autumn 
 months if they will 
 follow these instruc- 
 tions. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 FOE. MARKET. 
 
 Where large num- 
 bers of these plants are 
 grown for producing 
 a plentiful supply of 
 medium-sized flowers 
 for market, much 
 labour is necessary if 
 proper attention be 
 given to their many 
 wants. If grown in 
 pots, constant regard 
 to the requirements of 
 the plants is essential, 
 or the return at the 
 end of the season will 
 
 Jhis Engraving shows a branch which has 
 not been disbudded, cimaequenily all the shoots not be a favourable 
 and buds ore growing, and wilt form a mass, 
 or bush, of numerous small flowers suitable one. 
 for cutting and placing in small oases. 
 
12 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 The young plants should be treated up to the end of 
 April as advised for the growing of bush plants. At this 
 stage they should be planted in open, but sheltered, borders 
 in well-prepared soil. The staking and watering of the 
 plants must be carefully attended to, and a mulch of 
 rotten dung placed on the surface of the soil early in 
 June. The aggregate amount of work during sumncer 
 will be much less than if the same number of plants 
 were grown throughout the season in pots. But for 
 general use, and for convenience, pot plants are the best in 
 the autumn. We are only recommending planting out in 
 borders in exceptional cases, such as extreme pressure of 
 other work during summer, and an insufficient supply of 
 empty pots at the time of final potting. Just before the 
 advent of frost, lift the plants very carefully, retaining as 
 much soil as possible around the roots, and transfer them to 
 the borders of peach or tomato houses without unnecessary 
 delay. Fill up all open spaces around each root firmly with 
 fine soil; syringe the plants well; place a shading on the roof 
 of the house — which should be kept rather close for a few 
 days — -when full ventilation may be gradually given and 
 the shading removed. If these instructions are carefully 
 attended to but little check will be felt by the plants, 
 although a certain amount must be expected owing to the 
 unavoidable mutilation of the roots. We would only 
 advise this method of growing Chrysanthemums for market 
 where circumstances warrant it. We have seen it practised 
 with great success. Small plants are the most useful for 
 market purposes. Cuttings should not be rooted too early ; 
 February and March being the best months for their 
 propagation. The aim of the grower should be to obtain a 
 plant with foliage on it of a dark green colour down to the 
 
Chrysakthemum Culture for the Million. 13 
 
 base. Ample room should be allotted to these plants 
 during the summer, confining the roots to as small pots as 
 possible without causing a stunted growth. When confined 
 to small pots the plants will require nourishment after the 
 middle of June. Judicious applications of soot and liquid 
 manure water ; and approved artificial manure applied in a 
 dry state to the surface of the soil, and also dissolved in 
 water (according to the directions given with each kind), 
 will answer the purpose. When the time arrives for 
 placing these plants under glass, the same principle as to 
 room must be observed. Crowding of the plants together 
 will, in three week's time, undo the whole season's work. 
 Strive to preserve the foliage in a robust, healthy state 
 Customers will be found who will readily buy such 
 specimens for the adornment of their windows, porches and 
 small greenhouses, and the grower will be well repaid for 
 his labour. 
 
 Select a few of the best varieties and grow large 
 numbers of each, rather than many sorts and few of each one. 
 White, yellow, bronze and dark red are the best colours to 
 choose, but the two first named are the most popular. For 
 early flowering the following are good and reliable sorts, 
 and command the readiest sale, viz. : — Madame Desgranges, 
 white ; Lady Selbourne, white, very free flowering ; Yellow 
 Selbourne, In both the growth and flowers this variety 
 resembles its parent, except colour, which is a very pleasing 
 yellow ; Niveus, pure white ; Gloire du Rocher, orange- 
 amber ; Mrs. Rundle, white ; Lady Laurence, pure white ; 
 Boule de Neige, white ; Flora, red, shaded rose (Japanese 
 variety); W. H. Lincoln, rich deep yellow; H. W. Rieman, 
 this is a later variety than Lincoln, similar habit, and pure 
 yellow flowers produced very freely; Source d'Or, orange 
 
14 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 and gold ; Ryecroft Glory, yellow ; V. Morel, deep mauve, 
 from buds secured on terminal shoots ; W. Holmes, chest- 
 nut-red; Lady Fitzwygram, white; Golden Gem, bronze; 
 Mrs. Hawkins, deep yellow ; L. Canning, white, very late ; 
 Mdlle. Lacroix, white; Val d' Andorra, orange-red; and 
 Elaine, pure white. These are a few sorts which may be 
 depended upon to give satisfaction. There are others also 
 good. New varieties are constantly coming to the front, but 
 few of them possess sterling merit. We would recommend 
 that new ones be tried on a small scale at first, and 
 thoroughly tested, before replacing older and tried sorts 
 with them. 
 
 PLACING THE PLANTS IN THE OPEN-AIR, FEBDINa, 
 AND INTERMEDIATE POTTING. 
 In the Southern counties of England the best time to 
 place the plants out of doors is the end of April and early 
 in May. In the North, it will be advisable to defer this 
 work till towards the end of May. In each case the plants 
 should be protected. Select a sheltered position, but one 
 not undei, nor too near, tall trees, as they would obstruct 
 the light, draw the young plants up, and thus weaken the 
 growth. Stand the pots on a firm bed of ashes, tiles or 
 boards to keep the worms out. If on the two latter, 
 provision must be made for the water to drain away freely. 
 If the foliage becomes dry, a few degrees of frost will not 
 harm the plants, but it will be best to temporarily protect 
 them at night until all risk is over. A framework of 
 laths, upon which a few mats or some coarse canvas can be 
 laid, will answer the purpose admirably. Cold east and 
 north-east winds do much injury to the tender foliage at 
 this time of the year. We always guard against such 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 15 
 
 danger by placing scrim, or mats, 3 feet high, fastened to 
 stakes driven into the ground all round the plants, and 
 ■which is allowed to remain in this position for a few weeks. 
 The Spring time is a very busy one for the gardener; 
 generally more work demanding his attention than can be 
 properly done. Consequently something has to be neglected, 
 and Chrysanthemums are often the things which suffer. 
 Once we neglected them, under pressure of other work at this 
 time, and we were constantly reminded of our remissness 
 all through the remainder of the season by the unsatisfac- 
 tory appearance of the plants. The final potting of 
 Chrysanthemums can be delayed for a time, argues the 
 busy gardener, and so it may, but at what expense ? There 
 is no appreciable difference to be noticed in the spring, but, 
 undoubtedly, the autumn display of bloom will be affected. 
 Not- only should the final potting take place as soon as the 
 plants need it, but intermediate potting is sometimes 
 necessary before the final shift is made. By selecting those 
 plants which are urgently in need of more root-room, and 
 giving it to them forthwith, the general high standard of 
 quality of the whole of the stock will be increased, whereas 
 if this is neglected it will be lowered. Only a very small 
 shift on into a larger pot is necessary. We advocate a little 
 feeding at this time to the majority of those plants not 
 re-potted. "Weak liquid manure twice within seven days, 
 and a table-spoonful of artificial manure, dissolved in two 
 gallons of rain water, given once a week will assist the 
 growth of the plants very much. We are strongly in favour 
 of giving such assistance, but must warn our readers not 
 to exceed the quantity of stimulant stated. The same kind 
 of soil should be used at the intermediate potting as that 
 used for the previous one. These re-potted plants will 
 
16 Chrysanthemum CuLTaKE for the Million. 
 
 not require any help from manure water until the roots 
 have taken a good hold of the new soil. 
 
 THE FIRST BUD. 
 
 During the greater part of May, and throughout June, 
 the first bud will form in the points of the shoots. Some 
 of the earliest varieties may be retarded by retaining this 
 bud for a short time instead of forthwith removing it. To 
 secure a few later crown buds of the " Queens, " and of 
 some of the earliest varieties of Japanese and Incurved, 
 pinch off one inch of growth when removing the first buds. 
 The buds which form on the growths afterwards produced 
 will be delayed a week or thereabouts. Only treat a few 
 plants in this way. As soon as the bud is taken out, or the 
 tops pinched off — as in the case of the those just mentioned; 
 and also the very late varieties (of which " Boule d'Or " is 
 an example) which should have the tops removed — some on 
 April 20th, and others on April 30th — the whole strength 
 of the plant goes to the production of the new growths, 
 which were visible around it. Moderately late varieties 
 need the bud to be removed as soon as possible without 
 injuring the young shoots, as the object of the cultivator is 
 to hasten the production of the crown bud on the succeed- 
 ing shoots. " Viviand Morel " and " Charles Davis " are 
 generally very troublesome in the matter of bud formation ; 
 that is, instead of growth shoots following the removal of 
 the first bud, more buds are formed. Experience teaches 
 us to persistently remove all successive buds as soon as they 
 are large enough to handle ; that is the right thing to do. 
 Growth shoots will eventually assert the lead, and from 
 them splendid flowers, of good colour and large size, may be 
 looked for at the proper time. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 17 
 
 "When the buds appear, and are large enough, snip 
 them out and reserve the three top shoots, and these will 
 afterwards grow freely if the plant be in good health. 
 Remove all side growths beneath the above-mentioned 
 three, so that they may have all the support of the plant 
 concentrated in them. This selection of three shoots 
 applies to those plants which are grown specially for the 
 production of fine blooms. "We have always found the 
 varieties " Princess of Teck,'' " Hero of Stoke Newington," 
 and " Mrs. Norman Davis " to be failures when the crown 
 bud has been ''secured" in the ordinary way, for it 
 invariably formed a hard bud with a short, hard flower 
 stem; the flower opening in an irregular and altogether 
 unsatisfactory manner. We mention this here as the 
 reason why. Towards the end of June, or very early in 
 July, the points of the shoots should be removed once more, 
 as the resultant growths which then form give the most 
 desirable blooms. Although rather later in forming, instead 
 of being hard the buds open more freely and regularly, and 
 develop into fine, deep blooms of good shape and colour. 
 
18 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 19 
 
 FINAL POTTING. 
 
 PRINCIPAL PARTS OF COMPOST. 
 
 Loam. 
 
 Leaf soil. 
 
 Horse manure. 
 
 Soot. 
 
 Ordinary wood ashes. 
 
 Bone meal. 
 
 Chrysanthemum ashes. 
 Dry lime. 
 Artificial manures. 
 Sand. 
 
 Size of pots, 8 inch, 9 inch and 10 inch. 
 
 TIME FOR FINAL POTTINa. 
 
 TOWARDS the end of May, and during June, the plants 
 must be placed in the large pots. Do not pot all of 
 them in a haphazard manner, whether they require it or 
 not, but pick out those which are sufficiently advanced in 
 root action and deal with them first, and the others in due 
 course before they become pot-bound. 
 
 SOIL. 
 This, the rooting medium for the plant, has been 
 described by some cultivators as of secondary importance 
 during the growing period ; feeding, bring in their estima- 
 tion, the chief essential. We grant that feeding is a most 
 important item in the culture; but, unless the potting 
 compost be of the right kind, as regards quality and 
 lasting properties, feeding will not be so effectual; thus 
 we see that neither is independent of the other. With 
 regard to the quality of the soil as affecting the growth of 
 different sections of Chrysanthemums, we maintain that. 
 
20 Chrysanthemum Coltdee fok the Million. 
 
 especially in dealing with the Japanese, it is not possible to 
 obtain blooms of the highest merit from plants which have 
 been grown in soil of poor quality. Very rich soil will not 
 answer so well for the Incurved section, because depth, 
 solidity, and general refinement of bloom would not be 
 forthcoming from plants grown in such material; neither 
 would this desirable quality be apparent in the Japanese 
 section if the plants were loosely potted, i.e., the soil not 
 firmly rammed into the pots. It will be clearly seen by the 
 grower that Chrysanthemums must be potted finally in two 
 difierent qualities of soil, namely, one well-enriched for the 
 Japanese, and the other not so rich for the Incurved. The 
 soil suitable for the latter section is also better adapted for 
 the Anemone-flowered, Reflexed, Single and Pompons. 
 
 We were once engaged in potting some Chrysanthemums 
 when a gentleman came upon the scene and enquired 
 whether we were pounding medicine with pestle and mortar, 
 he remarking that the " ramming " suggested that operation 
 to him. Let it be clearly understood that excessively hard 
 potting is not recommended, but the soil should be pressed 
 down firmly, no spaces ought to be left around the sides of 
 the pots, and the roots on each ball of soil must not be 
 bruised. Soil which is sufficiently firm for Geraniums will 
 not be so for Chrysanthemums. 
 
 Before beginning to pot have all the pots and crocks 
 washed clean; especially the insides of the pots. Any 
 plants which may be found to be dry should be watered 
 copiously, and allowed to remain a few hours before 
 handling them. 
 
 For Japanese, mix well together the following compost : 
 one half sound loam with the grass only just decayed, chop 
 it small enough for use, and remove the finest fibreless 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 21 
 
 portion by sifting the whole through a half-inch sieve, one 
 quarter part moderately fresh horse manure, and one 
 quarter part half decayed leaves. To each barrow load of 
 the above add a 5-inch potful of soot, one of bone meal, one 
 of some approved artificial manure, one of ordinary wood 
 ashes, half a potful of Chrysanthemum ashes, a handful of 
 dry lime, and sufficient coarse sand to make the whole 
 porous. In mixing the soil for the other sections use a 
 smaller quantity of horse manure, and a 4-inch pot for 
 measuring out the manure, ashes, soot and bones. If the 
 soil be mixed and placed in a heap in an open shed, facing 
 north, for a month prior to use, it will prove of still more 
 value. 
 
 After the pots are crocked by placing a large potsherd 
 with the hollow side down over the hole, and then smaller 
 ones to the depth of two inches, put a few leaves (oak or 
 beech preferably), or very thinly-cut fresh turf over them, 
 and a sprinkling of soot. This will help to keep the worms 
 out, and benefit the plants also. Then place a small 
 quantity of the coarser parts of the soil on the soot, and 
 make it firm with the blunt end of the rammer ; upon this 
 portion put the ball of soil attached to the plant without 
 more disturbance of the roots than is necessary through the 
 removal of the old crocks. With the wedge-shaped end of 
 the stick make each layer of soil firm as the potting 
 proceeds. Leave a space of 1 J inches below the rim of the 
 pot, then watering may be done effectually, and room will 
 be provided for top-drossing in the summer. Amateurs 
 especially err in this matter by filling the pot too full of 
 soil at first; a difficulty is caused when, later on, it is 
 necessary to apply additional soil as a top-dressing. Eight, 
 9 and 10-inch pots will be quite large enough to use ; we 
 
22 Chrysanthemum Cdltdrb for the Million. 
 
 have seen very fine plants grown in 7-inoh pots ; but, except 
 for special purposes, these are too small for the final potting. 
 Replace the small stakes with stronger ones, and stand 
 the plants in their summer quarters; which should bo 
 sheltered from the south-west winds. Tiles or boards 
 should be used to stand the pots on ; in fact, anything that 
 will keep out worms, and not block the drainage of the 
 water from the pots, will do. When the plants are growing 
 taller they are easily blown down by strong winds, unless 
 they are secured to some support. String tied to posts 
 driven firmly in the ground should not be used. Wire is 
 most suitable. Two strands for the tall varieties, and one 
 for the dwarf ones, will be sufficient. These wires must be 
 stretched tight from post to post, and the stakes which 
 support the plants made secure to the horizontal wires. 
 Do not, however, tie any portion of the plant to the wires. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 23 
 
24 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 TEEATMENT OF THE PLANTS DUEING 
 THE SUMMEE MONTHS. 
 
 AFTER the last potting, every care must again be 
 exercised in watering ; the plants will soon lose their 
 bottom leaves if the soil is constantly saturated with water. 
 If grown for grouping, and as specimens, the loss of the 
 basal leaves will cause much disappointment, as such plants 
 would look very ordinary when placed besides others which 
 were clothed with healthy foliage to the rim of the pot. In 
 very dry, hot weather, a thorough syringing will be of more 
 service to them than watering the soil too much. Of course 
 we do not mean that the syringing is to take the place of 
 watering, as the soil must be thoroughly saturated when dry 
 enough to require it, but during the first month after 
 potting only water when really necessary, always picking 
 out the dry ones, and not beginning at one end of the row 
 and watering all the plants indiscriminately. When the 
 pots have become nearly full of roots more water will be 
 required, and in very hot weather watering several times 
 each day is necessary. Those plants which are at this time 
 (end of June or thereabouts) showing the first bud should be 
 treated as previously advised. 
 
 There are more varieties in cultivation at the present 
 time which produce flowers of even greater excellence than 
 most of the older ones, and which do not grow very high, 
 consequently stakes are not required so long as they were 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 25 
 
 formerly, and the plants are more easily housed to advan- 
 tage in the autumn. Three stakes (one to each shoot) should 
 be placed to every plant, and in the case of dwarf varieties 
 all the stakes— which need not be so stout for these — may be 
 inserted in the soil in the pot. For tall plants, one central 
 stake only is needed ; this should be driven firmly into the 
 soil, and two small side sticks attached to the wires only 
 and the shoots fastened to them. Very sturdy-growing 
 varieties do not require side stakes at all, but simply 
 looping to the central one with matting. Drive the stakes 
 down the insides of the pots in the new soil in which the 
 plants have been potted, and not too near to the stem, or 
 many roots may be destroyed. Keep all suckers regularly 
 removed throughout the summer months, and, indeed, these 
 should be pulled off until the blooms are one quarter open. 
 
 ^^^ 
 
26 Chrysanthemum Cdltuee foe the Million. 
 
 INSECTS AND MILDEW. 
 
 MILDEW usually infests the leaves on the under side; it 
 is white in colour, like hoar frost, and is easily 
 eradicated by rubbing flour of sulphur on the affected parts. 
 Two ounces of soft soap dissolved in four quarts of boiling 
 water, and, when cool, syringed on the plants will also 
 destroy the mildew. Use the remedies on the first appear- 
 ance of the mildew and prevent it from spreading. 
 
 Black and green fly should ha dislodged by applications 
 of tobacco powder. These pests generally gather round 
 the points of the young growths. There is a small yellow 
 thrip which also infests the growths at the point and 
 cripples the young leaves very much if left long undisturbed. 
 Apply tobacco powder also in this case while the plants 
 are wet with dew. Ladybirds are often found on Chrysan- 
 themums in the summer, and are destroyed by sonae growers, 
 but it is a mistake to kill them as they are the gardener's 
 friend, they eat the fly, but do absolutely no harm to the 
 plants. 
 
 Worse than any of the pests just mentioned is a disease 
 which sometimes destroys many plants, viz. — the loss of 
 leaves, and often the entire plant, through the leaves from 
 the base upwards turning black. Half of each leaf at first 
 is discoloured, the other half turns a dull yellow, and they 
 either fall off or dry up. This is caused, we believe, through 
 giving too much water to those plants which are defective 
 in root action. The disease is aggravated when strong 
 
Cheysanthkmum Culture foe the Million. 27 
 
 liquid manure is given to such plants. On the first sign of 
 blackness in the leaf, the plants so affected should be turned 
 out of the pots and the roots examined ; if few roots are to 
 be seen, only clear water should be given until root action 
 is freer, keeping the soil somewhat drier than formerly for 
 a short time. 
 
 Another disease which affects the young growths of the 
 "Queen" family only is also a disastrous one. This occurs 
 about the month of August, just before the formation of the 
 flower bud which is so eagerly looked forward to by the 
 anxious grower. The whole of the point of the shoot is 
 affected, but not always every shoot on each plant. The 
 young leaves wither and go soft and flabby. Free growth 
 is arrested for a period of ten days or so, then it again 
 commences, but these particular leaves, instead of growing 
 to the normal size, remain stunted, showing at the end of 
 the season the exact place on the shoot where the check 
 occurred. On many plants so affected the flower buds which 
 follow are worthless, as they never develop into shapely 
 blooms. The cause of this withering of the points of 
 growth we are not able confidently to state, but undoubtedly 
 a check to growth has occurred, given, we believe, through 
 over dryness at the roots after a top-dressing of fresh soU. 
 has been put on. This is the chief cause of the evil. Why 
 it does not affect other sorts in the same way is a puzzle to 
 us, unless it be that the constitution of the "Queen" 
 section is entirely different to that of other varieties. 
 
28 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 FEEDING THE PLANTS. 
 
 COMMENCE feeding the plants as soon as the roots 
 begin to entwine round the ball of soil at the sides 
 of the pots, and keep on applying manure water (at first 
 in a weak state) up to the time that the blooms are nearly 
 half open. Most of the artificial manures, if applied 
 according to the directions given with each kind, are highly 
 beneficial to the growth of Chrysanthemums. Soot water, 
 too, is invaluable as a stimulant to growth. It should be 
 placed in a bag, tied up, and then put into a barrel or tank 
 of rain water. Stir the bag about in the water occasionally, 
 but always use the water in a clear state, and not 
 immediately after moving it to and fro in the tank. Sheep, 
 goat, cow, and fowl dung may be similarly treated. 
 
 Artificial manure may be applied in a dry state, or 
 dissolved in water first. If given dry apply it immediately 
 after watering, or after rain, and not while the soil is dry 
 in the pots, as it would very probably burn the surface 
 roots, and so do more harm than good. Sulphate of 
 Ammonia and Nitrate of Soda hasten the growth, but if 
 used indiscriminately a vast deal of harm would soon be 
 done. We once tried Nitrate of Soda on a plant (Alfred 
 Salter) to test its strength and eifect. Immediately after 
 applying it the leaves assumed a dark green colour ; they 
 very perceptibly thickened, being twice as large as those on 
 plants which were not treated in this manner. The Nitrate 
 was given about three times each week for two months at 
 
Chbysanthemum Culture for the Million. 29 
 
 the rate of a tea-spoonful each time. The plant at the end 
 of that period was nearly two feet higher than the others of 
 the same variety in the row. Final result — a large bud, 
 deformed even in that stage of growth, which developed 
 into a large, flat, coarse bloom, very inferior to those on the 
 other plants. If less than half the quantity of Nitrate of 
 Soda had been given once in two weeks during the two 
 months, the plant would have received quite sufficient 
 stimulant. We give this statement as a guide to growers. 
 It should also be clearly understood that with the Nitrate 
 of Soda only weak liquid manure, soot water, and clear 
 water should be given alternately, with an occasional 
 sprinkling of some good artificial manure, and not Sulphate 
 of Ammonia as well. Use the latter as you would Nitrate 
 of Soda, in the place of it, and not in conjunction. Pigeon 
 dung is stronger than fowl's dung ; both are valuable as a 
 soluble manure in a weak state — that is, well diluted with 
 clear rain water — but if used in a raw state, either as a top- 
 dressing alone, or mixed with the soil, it is dangerous, as it 
 burns the roots, and also causes worms to breed in it. 
 
30 Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 
 TOP-DEESSING. 
 
 WE like to top-dress with rich soil twice during the season, 
 viz., towards the end of July, and again after the 
 bulk of the buds which are to remain on the plants have 
 been secured. The soil for this purpose should be collected 
 and stacked two months before it is wanted for use. 
 
 Cut off the main portion of the grass, and when the 
 remainder has dried chop the turf into pieces, sift out the 
 fine soil, and mix with it a 7-inch potful of ground bones, 
 one of soot, and a bushel of horse manure to each barrowf ul 
 of soil. Place the compost in a solid heap in an open shed 
 where rain can be kept off it till required for use. If the 
 heap remains in this position for a month it will be of more 
 value at the end of that time than if used immediately after 
 the mixing. Put the top-dressing on at the two periods 
 previously mentioned, leaving room at the first one for the 
 second application. 
 
 Use the rammer freely and so make the soil very firm 
 on the surface. Ring the pots after top-dressing to be sure 
 that the soil is not too dry underneath, or, what is better, 
 well water all that require it, about an hour before perform- 
 ing this operation, as the damp appearance of the new soil 
 may otherwise deceive the eye, and harm to the plants 
 accrue. Feed the plants so as to obtain a free, luxuriant 
 growth, but avoid over-forcing. The aim should be to 
 secure wood which will thoroughly mature in our climate. 
 Wood which is not ripe at the time the plants are housed 
 in the autumn will not give the best flowers. Continue to 
 syringe the plants freely in hot weather, and pay constant 
 attention to the tying of the shoots as growth advances. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 31 
 
 SECUEING THE FLOWEEING BUDS. 
 
 FLOWER buds on the plants of certain varieties will, 
 sometimes, make their appearance in the points of the 
 leading shoots at most inconvenient dates, when exhibiting 
 
 is the real purpose for 
 which they are grown. 
 Some kinds, especially of 
 the " Queen " family 
 among the Incurves, and 
 " Viviand Morel" (and its 
 sport — "Charles Davis") 
 among the Japanese, are 
 more troublesome in this 
 respect than others. We 
 strongly recommend the 
 removal of all buds which 
 show on these plants 
 during July and the early 
 part of August, and also 
 those on all other very 
 early varieties. Further 
 growth will then com- 
 mence, which will in due 
 time produce another 
 flower bud. These re- 
 sultant buds may not 
 grow into such large 
 
 Securing -taking " the Grown Bad. The flowerS aS the cultivator 
 cross lines denote which shoots to remoue. 
 
32 
 
 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million, 
 
 may desire to have, but they will contain good qualities, 
 
 which flowers from too early buds rarely possess. " Boule 
 
 d'Or," and other very late varieties, may show buds in the 
 
 last week in July if the plants were " topped " about April 
 
 20th. Such buds will be ready for " securing " — that is, 
 
 removing all young shoots which grow around them, and 
 
 leaving the buds — about August 3rd, and all secured at 
 
 that date will be in bloom in November at the right time. 
 
 We have often seen advice given about the " Princess of 
 
 Wales " type, namely, that the 28th of August is quite soon 
 
 enough to secure the buds of these varieties, which now 
 
 embrace a rather large 
 
 section of the best quality 
 
 Incurved sorts. We 
 
 have obtained very good 
 
 blooms from buds secured 
 
 at the date just named, 
 
 but they would not bear 
 
 comparison with others 
 
 taken about the 15th 
 
 August. All buds of 
 
 these varieties should be 
 
 secured by August 25th, 
 
 and then deep, high 
 
 quality blooms may be 
 
 looked for in November. 
 
 Such buds will be fully 
 
 developed by November 
 
 5th. Only about 5 per 
 
 cent, of good blooms will 
 
 develop from buds of the 
 
 Securing "taking" the Terminal Butt. 
 
 "Queen" and "Empress" ^^^ "''"^^ ''"'^ "''^ " guide as to which 
 
 ^ buds should be remoued. 
 
Chrysanthemum Cultuee for the Million. 
 
 33 
 
 family which have been secured during the first week in 
 August. The lust week in that month and the first in 
 September being a safer time ; though buds which show on 
 August 15th should be retained. The best date for securing 
 
 The "Crown Bud" smelling properly. 
 
 the buds of each variety of Incurved and Japanese is given 
 in the table at the end of this book, together with other 
 details of prime importance. Do not remove all the 
 growths at one time when securing the bud, but a few at a 
 time, when they are large enough to be taken off without 
 
 D 
 
34 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 injuring what is left. If tlie plants are growing freely at 
 that period, there is no necessity for feeding with chemicals. 
 Carefully watch the growth, and as soon as help is need- 
 ful give weak soot water first, follow that in a few days with 
 diluted liquid manure ; after which artificial manures will 
 be beneficial in assisting to plump up the buds. Keep 
 a sharp watch for earwigs, which do much damage at this 
 period by eating the centre of the bud out, and also the 
 stem below the bud. During the daytime examine all 
 curled leaves, and between the stem of the plant and the 
 stake, for these pests ; and at night, with a lantern, 
 examine not only the stems and leaves but particularly the 
 buds. All side shoots on the stems of the plants must be 
 pinched regularly while they are in a small stage, for if left 
 to grow several inches long before removal, they will rob 
 the plant of much strength. 
 
 RETARDING THE BUDS. 
 When the buds on some of the plants are too forward 
 remove such plants to a cool place facing north, if possible, 
 where they will be screened from the sun in the middle of 
 the day, but in an open position, not under trees, nor too 
 near to a high wall. We remember a gardener — a beginner 
 in Chrysanthemum culture — once trying to retard, and to 
 keep dry some buds which were just beginning to show 
 colour, by tying small paper bags over them. When he 
 removed the bags he found, to his dismay, that he had 
 provided an excellent harbour for earwigs, which had in the 
 meantime entirely destroyed his most forward blooms. 
 This experiment was never repeated. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 35 
 
 PLACING CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 INDOOES. 
 
 THE dates given are for the Southern counties. In the 
 North of England, Midlands, Scotland, and the 
 North of Ireland, all plants which are grown to produce 
 exhibition blooms should be safely housed before the advent 
 of frost in those localities. Unless they can be protected at 
 night none should be left exposed to the night air after 
 September 20th. In Scotland a week earlier even will be 
 a better date for housing the late blooming sorts. Bush 
 plants for general decorative use may be left out a little 
 later than the dates given above, but they, too, must not be 
 exposed to frost, as it cripples the shoots, and undoes the 
 work of a whole season. The evil effects of frosts on opening 
 buds is soon apparent in the wholesale decay of the flowers 
 after housing. The latest flowering varieties should be 
 housed first. Those which are very backward may be put 
 under glass about September 20th, if the blooms are 
 required at an early date, and others before the colours of 
 the florets can be seen. The 1st of October is the date 
 generally accepted by growers as the best one for housing 
 the bulk of the plants. From the 1st to the 10th of 
 October we have, with few exceptions, experienced rather 
 severe frosts ; during which time any plants that are not 
 housed are safer if placed in an open shed at night, not only 
 to be protected from frost, but also from the dew, 
 which soon ruins the flowers, by causing decay after housing. 
 Remove all decayed leaves before housing the plants, and 
 
36 Cheysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 do not crowd them too close together, but admit all the 
 light possible to preserve the foliage in a green condition as 
 long as you can. Stand specimen plants by themselves. 
 Greenhouses, vineries, peach houses, glass verandahs, and 
 even porches and large windows may be utilised for the 
 protection of Chrysanthemums at this season of the year, 
 but very lofty, dark conservatories, and similar structures, 
 are not suitable. A few of the earliest plants may be 
 placed in a house which faces north, north-east, or east (if 
 such be available). The opening of the blooms will thus be 
 retarded, and the grower have an opportunity of exhibiting 
 some of his best blooms — it may be at the same time as 
 those which are naturally much later. The late kinds must 
 be fully exposed to light and sunshine, and also placed in a 
 slightly warmer house in order to have the blooms quite out 
 at the desired time. Place the plants so as to avoid having 
 the blooms too near to the glass ; they must not be closer 
 than 3 or 4 feet. Ventilate freely at first both at the top 
 and front of the house, and also leave the door open. Do 
 not syringe the plants after housing, if the buds are opening, 
 as the water would lodge in the florets and cause decay. 
 
 Water as usual when the plants are in need of it. Place 
 a large lump of lime in a tub, or can, and mix it with water. 
 When the lime has settled at the bottom, use the clear 
 water for watering the plants once every ten days till the 
 blooms are three parts developed ; it will help to prevent 
 damping of the blooms. 
 
 When the blooms are about half expanded, and are con- 
 sidered to be too forward, the house must be shaded. This 
 is best done by laying mats or other material on the glass 
 outside, immediately over those flowers which require it. The 
 advantage of this kind of shading is that it can be removed 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 37 
 
 when dull weather supervenes. We always shade exhibition 
 blooms from strong sunshine, especially the Incurved 
 varieties. If this precaution be not taken some of the 
 petals will reflex instead of incurving naturally. It is 
 advisable, also, to turn the blooms of the Incurved varieties 
 — especially the "Queens" — from the sun. Keep the blooms 
 of the last named in an upright position until nearly fully 
 developed, the petals will then form into place and produce 
 a deep, solid bloom. At this stage the branches may be 
 depressed so as to admit of the flower hanging downwards 
 towards the light ; support must be given to the flowers 
 while in this position, or their weight will cause many losses 
 through breaking of the flower stem immediately below the 
 bottom petals. 
 
 FIRE HEAT AND VENTILATION. 
 These are two important items at this stage, and will 
 require careful manipulation. Too much fire heat is 
 harmful, as also is excessive ventilation, when the flowers 
 are nearly open. The ventilators at the top of the house 
 should be left slightly open to admit a little air night and 
 day, except in foggy weather, when, if the sun be entirely 
 obscured by the fog, all ventilators should be closed. If, 
 however, the sun shines upon the house it must not be closed, 
 even during fogs, but a small opening should be left at the 
 top. It is wise to hang scrim canvas over the ventilators 
 in foggy weather. Indeed we always had some coarse scrim 
 fastened to the ventilators when the flowers were opening ; 
 cold draughts were thereby prevented, while sufficient air 
 was admitted. From 43 degrees to 50 degrees is a suitable 
 temperature for Japanese, and a few degrees lower for the 
 Incurved and other varieties. 
 
38 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 DAMPING OF THE PETALS. 
 
 LARGE numbers of fine blooms are lost every year 
 through damping. The blooms are affected in 
 different ways. Sometimes they are speckled all over as if 
 pepper had been dusted on them ; the spots turn to a rusty 
 brown colour, and the effect is to render the blooms thus 
 damaged worthless for exhibition. The spots are caused by 
 a too low temperature in the house at night ; the blooms 
 being colder than the surrounding atmosphere, moisture 
 condenses on them, and the sun shining upon them the 
 following day causes the spots just referred to. Prevention 
 is better than cure in this, as in other cases. During very 
 cold weather, especially when fogs are prevalent, suspend 
 a piece of scrim or tiffany cloth about a foot above the 
 blooms; this covering will retain much of the moisture 
 which would, in its absence, descend upon the blooms and 
 thus cause injury to them. Remove the covering the next 
 morning as soon as the air in the house feels drier. 
 Another form of damping is the decay of the ends of the 
 petals, which occurs at intervals over the entire bloom, and 
 is caused by too much moisture at the roots of the plants. 
 On the first appearance of this decay remove all damaged 
 petals, keep the soil drier for a few days, and then give a 
 watering of clear lime water. This malady is not so 
 disastrous to the blooms as the " spotting " is. We have 
 occasionally found whole flowers decay at the base of the 
 florets. Water dripping from the roof (in some oases the 
 result of syringing) and lodging in the blooms soon brings 
 on decay. This may easily be prevented, unless the roof of 
 the house be very defective. 
 
Chrtsanthemum Culture for the Million. 39 
 
40 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 DRESSING THE BLOOMS WHILE 
 OPENING. 
 
 THE fiaal dressing of the flowers will of course be done 
 when they are cut and are under preparation for 
 exhibition. We have been oifered good remunerations by 
 gardeners if we would give them a few lessons in "dressing," 
 and have had much difficulty in convincing some that the 
 dressing is commenced while the blooms are still only 
 partially developed on the plants, and not left until they are 
 out and ready to place on the show boards. What we mean 
 by " dressing " the blooms while they are growing on the 
 plants, is the removal of all twisted and mal-formed petals; 
 and this applies more particularly to the Incurved section. 
 The Japanese, Japanese Anemone, and all the other sections 
 are greatly improved in shape and appearance by judicious 
 manipulation of the blooms while they are expanding. We 
 must, however, give a word of caution to intending 
 exhibitors, or our instructions may cause some to incur loss 
 through recklessly following our advice. It is this : do not 
 injure the petals which are left in each individual flower by 
 pinching or twisting them with the tweezers, which should 
 be used for removing the mis-placed ones. The flowers 
 should be examined in the following manner, viz., after they 
 are a quarter or half open carefully take out all unruly 
 petals — pull them clean out, do not leave a portion in, or it 
 will decay, and may cause others to do so. By removing 
 these ill-shaped petals the others will grow into their proper 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 41 
 
 places, thus improving the bloom, and causing much less 
 labour to be bestowed upon each one at the last moment. 
 This will allow of more time on the morning of the show to 
 attend to other necessary details. When the blooms are 
 three parts out a number of seed florets will be visible — 
 in some varieties, notably the "Princess of Wales" type, 
 more than others — carefully pluck out all such florets. They 
 are yellow in colour, short and sturdy, and if left cause the 
 petals to grow outwards, and not inwards as they should 
 do. When the Incurved varieties are well advanced, and 
 the sun is strong, guard against an undue rise of tempera- 
 ture by placing mats (several in thickness if need be) on the 
 glass outside. If once the petals are reflexed through too 
 much heat it will be a difficult matter to place them right 
 again. Flowers of this section growing on unripe wood 
 never incurve gracefully as do those which are produced on 
 thoroughly matured stems. 
 
42 Chetsanthemum Culture foe the Million. 
 
 PEESERVING FULLY-EXPANDED 
 BLOOMS. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM flowers last for a considerable 
 time in a fresh condition after they are quite 
 developed. Growers of these plants are, consequently, not 
 troubled in this respect so much as are those of Boses 
 for exhibition purposes. But, notwithstanding the good 
 keeping qualities of Chrysanthemums, some blooms are 
 difficult to preserve for any length of time in a fit condition 
 for exhibiting. It is much better to retard the opening of 
 the blooms by keeping the plants in a cooler temperature 
 than to try to keep them fresh for a long time after they 
 are fully expanded ; but when they are open too soon it is 
 imperative that something should be done to preserve them. 
 We have removed plants with blooms quite out, to an empty 
 stable, and kept them fresh for more than ten days. Others 
 we have cut with long stems and placed them in bottles of 
 water in a spare bedroom. They will keep in excellent 
 condition in such a position for a week. 
 
 Incurved flowers should have thin wire tied to the 
 stems, and then they can be bent in a slightly pendulous 
 position (so as not to disarrange the petals) without 
 breaking the stem. 
 
 The blooms on specimen plants, and those which are 
 intended for grouping purposes, may be preserved, for a 
 short time only, in sheds, as the leaves would suffer too 
 much by being placed in semi-darkness ; and these, as well 
 as the blooms, should be as fresh as possible. Water very 
 sparingly all plants after the blooms are at their best. 
 
Cheysanthemcm Cultuee foe the Million. 43 
 
 FINAL DRESSING, AND PLACING 
 THE BLOOMS ON THE BOARDS. 
 
 AREANaiNG THE BLOOMS ON BOARDS. 
 
 SOME of the Japanese varieties produce such immense 
 blooms that it would be impossible to place all the 
 largest sorts in one row on the board without undue 
 crowding. Therefore intermix the large and smaller sorts 
 so as to have an even stand of blooms. Place a good bloom, 
 one with great depth, at each corner and elevate all so as 
 they will present the best front to the judges, and show the 
 form and characteristics of each variety. There are cups 
 and tubes offered for sale by various makers which possess 
 the latest improvements, and make the work of staging a 
 very pleasant occupation. Blend the colours on the stand 
 in a pleasing manner. Select all the blooms in the daylight 
 and then determine the position which they are to occupy 
 on the stands, or boards, as this work can be carried out 
 much more satisfactorily in daylight than by artificial light. 
 Remember that if the colours are well arranged on the 
 stands it will help very much towards winning the prize. 
 
 Read very carefully the rules contained in the schedule 
 as to size of boards, number of varieties admitted in each 
 class, (fee, of the show, and comply with them in every 
 particular, so as to avoid disqualification. 
 
 FINAL DRESSING. 
 The Incurved varieties will require much attention in 
 the matter of dressing and general finish. Place the largest 
 in the back row, the medium in the middle, and the smaller 
 
44 Cheysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 sized ones in the front, so that each row of blooms appears 
 even in depth and width. Have depth and freshness in the 
 selected specimens; also rich colour. Nearly all the 
 deformed petals will have been removed while the blooms 
 were on the plants. Take each bloom separately, tie a very 
 small stake to the flower stem of Incurves — and others 
 which require support — to keep the bloom in an upright 
 position, then place it in a suitable sized cup, and take out 
 with the tweezers those petals which will not properly 
 incurve and overlap the others. Begin at the top of the 
 bloom and place all petals in regular order all over it. Do 
 not dwarf the flower by drawing the stem down too much 
 in the tube. If patent fasteners are not attached to each 
 cup and tube, then use pieces of cork. Fill the cup half 
 full of water. All this work must be done with great care 
 and judgment so as not to injure the tender petals. 
 
 The Japanese do not require any formal dressing, but 
 only irregular petals removed. Single, Pompon, Reflexed, 
 and Anemone-flowered should have extra long individual 
 petals and seeds removed, and be placed on the stands so 
 that the full beauty of each flower will be clearly seen. 
 
Chkysanthemum Culture for the Million. 45 
 
 BEST METHOD OF LABELLING 
 THE BLOOMS. 
 
 STANDS of Chrysantlieniums are frequently seen at 
 shows labelled in a very slovenly manner. A piece of 
 paper is torn up and the names often carelessly written 
 upon it. The papers are simply laid loosely upon the front 
 of the stand, or stage, sometimes they are knocked off and 
 are hastily replaced, probably, in the wrong positions. 
 Two methods of labelling to be commended are, first : — 
 fastening securely to the stand a neatly cut label in front of 
 each row of blooms, bearing three names each, which will be 
 for the back, middle and front row blooms respectively. But 
 the following is a better method, viz. : — fasten the labels on 
 an upright wire which has been firmly attached to the 
 stand at the back, each label bearing the names of the 
 three blooms immediately in front of it. Write the names 
 with black ink legibly and correctly. If any variety be 
 replaced by another after the labelling has been done, be 
 careful to correct the name on the card also. 
 
46 Chrysanthemum Cultdek foe the Million. 
 
 TAKING THE BLOOMS TO THE SHOW, 
 AND STAGING. 
 
 WHEN the blooms are placed on the stands the latter 
 should be securely fastened in tiers, in boxes which 
 have been specially made for the purpose, and which are 
 dust proof. The inside of the box should be very smooth, 
 or much damage may be done to the outside petals of some 
 of the blooms through rubbing against the sides. Have 
 the boxes made wide enough to enable the stands to be 
 put in and taken out with ease. The stands are easily 
 made secure in their respective places by wedging them 
 with pieces of wood. Use a cart with springs if possible, 
 and take every care throughout the journey, whether it be 
 short or long, by road or rail, to prevent damage from 
 jolting. However assiduous the exhibitor may be in this 
 matter the blooms will require all his attention after he 
 arrives at the show, in readjusting some of the petals, 
 especially of the Incurved section, before they can be 
 placed on the stage in a condition that will bear the critical 
 examination of the judges. When taking plants to a show 
 place them so that the pots fit tightly against each other in 
 a covered van, should one be available. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 47 
 
 Golden Thread. 
 
48 Chrysanthemum Cultuee foe the Million 
 
 HOW TO AREANGE A GROUP OF 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 EXPERIENCED exhibitors always group their plants 
 at home before taking them to the show; they are 
 then able to place every plant in the most advantageous 
 position. Having once arranged the group, the work of 
 re-constructing it in the show room will probably be done 
 with even better judgment. Always contrive to have a few 
 plants bearing high-class blooms of the Incurved sorts, 
 as they greatly improve the merits of the group. Dwarf, 
 and semi-dwarf plants with healthy foliage and carrying 
 deep, high-coloured fresh blooms are the best with which 
 to form a group. Avoid stiffness in arrangement. Procure 
 an undulating surface of blooms. Wash the pots before 
 taking them from home. Do not have unnecessary stakes 
 visible ; all supports should be painted green. Place the 
 best foliaged and dwarfest plants on the outsides of 
 the group. Fill all the space allotted, but avoid undue 
 crowding. Blend the colours in a pleasing and effective 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 49 
 
 HOW TO STAGE A GEOUP OF CUT 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 
 AND COLOURED FOLIAGE. 
 
 CLASSES for these are more numerously provided now 
 than they were formerly. This is a step in the 
 right direction, and charming exhibits are seen at all 
 the principal shows. Such arrangements deserve every 
 encouragement. We will presume that a given space has 
 to be filled in the most artistic manner; if too many 
 colours are used the effect will be marred. The following 
 colours are quite sufficient for the purpose, viz. — yellow, 
 bronze, white, and dark-red or crimson-maroon. Autumn- 
 tinted foliage — especially beech branches and hardy ferns — 
 judiciously intermixed with Chrysanthemum blooms (to 
 which a foot or more of stem is attached, clothed -with 
 healthy leaves) are materials with which a most pleasing 
 effect may be produced. 
 
 The same remarks apply to bouquets and epergnes of 
 Chrysanthemums and foliage. Lightness in the arrange- 
 ment and suitability of colours are the two essentials to 
 to be studied. 
 
50 Chrysanthemum Culture foe the MiI/LIOn. 
 
 JUDGING CHRYSANTHEMUM 
 BLOOMS, GROUPS, &c. 
 
 JUDGING by points in close competition is admitted 
 by all good growers and adjudicators to be the only 
 safe and reliable method in awarding the prizes. 
 
 Depth of bloom — especially of the Incurved varieties — 
 freshness, size, form, good colour, solidity and general 
 finish are the chief features to be considered. Coarse 
 blooms will not win when smaller ones possessing refine- 
 ment — which is the result of careful manipulation of the 
 buds at the right time, and general good culture— are 
 staged against them. In judging groups of Chrysan- 
 themums, the above enumerated qualities in the blooms 
 are necessary, with the additional ones of well-grown, 
 thickly foliaged plants, and artistic arrangement. 
 
 With regard to bouquets, epergnes, and cut blooms 
 with foliage arranged for efiect, lightness and harmony in 
 colours are the principal points to be observed. These 
 remarks on judging are few, but sufficient. Complicated 
 instructions are not necessary, but will harass and not assist 
 a person in awarding prizes for exhibits. 
 
Ohetsanthemum Culture for the Million. 51 
 
52 
 
 Chrysanthemum Ocltdee foe the Million. 
 
 A TABLE 01= 
 
 In this table we give, in an abbreviated form, a list of some ' 
 management, which we trust will be of great service to those w. 
 
 Abbreviations generally used in reference to Chrysanthemun!' 
 Japanese Eeflexed ; Inc., Incurved ; Sef., Reflexed ; Aneri 
 Anem., Pompon Anemone ; Sing., Single. 
 
 JAPANESE 
 
 Name. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Heii 
 
 Avalanche 
 
 Beauty of Castlewood. 
 Beauty of Exmouth... 
 
 Bouled'Or 
 
 Cecil Wray 
 
 Charles Davis 
 
 Colonel Chase 
 
 Col. W. B. Smith 
 
 Commandant Blusset.. 
 
 E.Beckett 
 
 Edith Tabor 
 
 E. Molyneux 
 
 Etoile de Lyon 
 
 Eva Knowles 
 
 Florence Davis 
 
 G. C. Schwabe 
 
 Golden Gate 
 
 G. W. Childs 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc.. 
 Jap. Inc.. 
 Jap. Inc.. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Ref.. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Ref.. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Ref.. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc.. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 white 
 
 red, reverse buff 
 
 ivory white 
 
 yellow, shaded orange 
 
 light yellow 
 
 buff-yellow 
 
 blush 
 
 terra-cotta 
 
 carmine-purple 
 
 yellow 
 
 lemon-yellow 
 
 maroon, gold reverse . 
 
 rose-purple 
 
 apricot, gold reverse . 
 white, green centre . 
 
 carmine-rose 
 
 yellow, shaded buff . 
 dark crimson 
 
 dwar 
 dwar 
 medf 
 
 d- k 
 war 
 
 dwal 
 
 med. 
 
 med. 
 
 med. 
 
 dwar 
 
 dwar 
 
 med. 
 
 med. 
 
 dwar 
 
 med. 
 
 med. 
 
 med. 
 
 dwar 
 
 dwar 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 
 
 53 
 
 [RYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 lest varieties in each section, with other details relating to their 
 
 leit. 
 
 —Jwp., Japanese; Jwp. Inc., Japanese Incurved; Jwp. Ref., 
 
 none; Jwp. Anem., Japanese Anemone; Pom., Pompon; Fom. 
 
 piETIBS. 
 
 .rly, 
 imm 
 Ute. 
 
 Size of 
 Pot for 
 Final 
 Potting, 
 in inches 
 
 ly... 
 
 10 
 
 3 ... 
 
 10 
 
 B ... 
 
 10 
 
 B ... 
 
 10 
 
 d. ... 
 
 10 
 
 d. ... 
 
 10 
 
 d. ... 
 
 9 
 
 d. ... 
 
 10 
 
 d. ... 
 
 10 
 
 :iy ... 
 
 10 
 
 id. ... 
 
 10 
 
 tly ... 
 
 10 
 
 « ... 
 
 10 
 
 d. .. 
 
 10 
 
 e .. 
 
 10 
 
 id.... 
 
 9 
 
 id. ... 
 
 10 
 
 id.... 
 
 9 
 
 When to secure the Final Bud. 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 10 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 20.. 
 
 crown, August 1 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 20., 
 
 crown, August 10 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 20-30. 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 10-25. 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 10-25. 
 
 Date to House 
 the Plants. 
 
 Size of Blooms 
 in inches. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 dia. depth. 
 
 H by 5 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 n .1 5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7 .. 5 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 7 n 6 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7 n 5 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 8 „ 6 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7 M 6 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7 ., 5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7 rt 6 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 6^ M 5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7 „ 6 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 7 M 5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 8 n 6 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 7i„ 5 
 
 Sept. 25 
 
 6^ M 5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H " 4 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H " 5 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 6 M 4 
 
54 
 
 Chetsanthemum Culture foe the Million. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Hairy Wonder 
 
 Henri Jacotot fils... 
 H. L. Sunderbruck ... 
 
 International 
 
 J. Shrimpton 
 
 Le Verseau 
 
 Lord Brooke 
 
 Louise 
 
 Mdme. Ad. Chatin . 
 Mdme. Ad. Moulin . 
 
 Mdme. Carnot 
 
 Mdme. M. Ricoud . 
 MdUe. Marie Hoste . 
 MdUe. Therese Key . 
 
 Mons. Bernard 
 
 Mons. Charles Molin. 
 Mons. Panckoucke . 
 Miss Dorothea Shea. 
 Miss Maggie Blenkiron 
 Miss Rita Schroeter. . . 
 Mrs. Alpheus Hardy... 
 Mrs. Charles Blick .. 
 
 Mrs. C. H. Payne 
 
 Mrs. E. G.Hill 
 
 Mrs. Falconer Jameson 
 Mrs. W. H. Lees ... 
 
 Mutual Friend 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 Phoebus 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Ref. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc. 
 Jap. Inc. 
 Jap. Inc 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Ref. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Ref. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. 
 Jap. Inc 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc. 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap 
 
 Jap. Inc. 
 Jap. Ref. 
 
 reddish bronze 
 
 crimson, gold reverse 
 
 bright yellow 
 
 salmon-red 
 
 crimson and scarlet 
 
 rose, striped white 
 
 orange, shaded red 
 
 white, suffused lilac 
 
 creamy white 
 
 white , 
 
 white 
 
 rose-lilac , 
 
 creamy white 
 
 ivory white 
 
 rosy purple 
 
 bronze and yellow 
 
 rich yellow 
 
 terra-cotta 
 
 orange-red and yellow . . , 
 
 white, striped lilac 
 
 white (hairy) 
 
 white 
 
 rose and white 
 
 white, shaded lilac 
 
 orange-bronze, str'k'd yell. 
 
 white, tinged pink 
 
 white, tinted lilac 
 
 sulphur-white 
 
 clear yellow 
 
Chrysanthemum Cultueb foe the Million. 
 
 55 
 
 aite of 
 
 Pot for 
 
 Final 
 
 Potting, 
 
 in inchea. 
 
 When to secure the Final Bud. 
 
 Date to HouBe 
 the Plants. 
 
 Size of Blooms 
 in inchea. 
 
 8 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 20.. 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown or term , Aug. 10-25.. 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 late cr. or term., Aug. 20-30. 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 20-30.. 
 crown or term., Aug. 15-30.. 
 crown or term., Aug. 5-25... 
 
 crown, August 10 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 late crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 5-15 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 late crown or term., Aug. 20 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown, August 5 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 20-30, 
 
 crown, August 10 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Sept. 20 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Sept. 25 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 1 
 
 dia. depth. 
 
 H by 4i 
 7i „ 6 
 
 H 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 6i 
 
 7 
 7 
 7 
 7 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 7 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 6 
 
 7 
 
56 
 
 Chrysanthemum Culture foe the Million. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Variety. 
 
 Cktlour. 
 
 Heigl; 
 
 President Borel ... 
 
 Puritan 
 
 Kichard Dean 
 
 Rose Wynne 
 
 Souvr. de Petite Amie 
 Stanstead White ... 
 
 Sunflower 
 
 Thomas Wilkins ... 
 
 Vi viand Morel 
 
 W. G. Newitt 
 
 W. H. Lincoln 
 
 W. Seward 
 
 W. Trioker 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. Inc 
 Jap. 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. Inc 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. ... 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 Jap. . . . 
 
 purple-rose 
 
 pink and white (at its best) 
 crimson, gold reverse... 
 
 blush 
 
 white 
 
 pure white 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 yellow 
 
 mauve 
 
 white 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 dark crimson 
 
 rich rose 
 
 med. ' 
 
 dwar]' 
 
 dwarl' 
 
 med. '' 
 
 dwari' 
 
 dwari' 
 
 med. 
 
 dwari I 
 
 dwari 
 
 med. 
 
 dwarf 
 
 med. 
 
 dwarf i 
 
 incurve: 
 
 Name. 
 
 Alfred Salter 
 
 Baron Hirsch 
 
 Brookleigh Gem ... 
 Chas. H. Curtis ... 
 
 D. B. Crane 
 
 Emily Dale 
 
 Empress of India... 
 
 Globe d'Or 
 
 Golden Empress ... 
 Hero of S. Newington 
 J. Agate 
 
 Colour. 
 
 lilac-pink 
 
 golden-buff, reverse crim.-red 
 
 rosy purple 
 
 rich yellow 
 
 bronze-buff, shaded red 
 
 straw-yel., suffused bronze... 
 
 pure white 
 
 buff-yellow 
 
 pale yellow 
 
 deep rose-pink 
 
 white 
 
 Height. 
 
 med. . 
 med. . 
 tall.... 
 med. . 
 dwarf, 
 med. . 
 med. . 
 med. . 
 med. . 
 dwarf, 
 med. . 
 
 Early, 
 Mediii] 
 or Lat< 
 
 med. : 
 early ' 
 early i 
 med. i 
 med. ! 
 med. • 
 med. : 
 med. 
 med. ) 
 late ; 
 med. , 
 
Chrysanthemum Cultubb foe the Million. 
 
 57 
 
 Size of 
 
 Pot lor 
 
 Final 
 
 Potting, 
 
 in inches. 
 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 9 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 9 
 10 
 
 When to secure the Final Bud. 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown, August 10 
 
 crown, August 12 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 10-25. 
 
 crown, August 15 , 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 10-25., 
 
 crown, August 5 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 10-25.. 
 late cr. or term., Aug. 20-30, 
 
 crown, August 15 
 
 late cr. or term., Aug. 15-30 
 
 terminal, August 30 
 
 crown or term., Aug. 10-30., 
 
 Date to House 
 the Plants. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 
 Oct 
 Oct. 
 Oct. 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 
 Size of Blooms 
 in inches. 
 
 dia. depth. 
 6^ by 4J 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 6 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 H 
 
 7 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 4 
 5 
 5 
 
 ^ 
 
 5 
 5 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 EETIES. 
 
 When to secure the Final Bud. 
 
 Date to House 
 the Plants. 
 
 Size of Blooms 
 in inches. 
 
 late crown or term., Aug. 15, Sept. 8. 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 late crown or term., Aug. 15, Sept. 8. 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 terminal, August 30 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 terminal, August 30 
 
 crown, August 25 
 
 Oct. 1—5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 5 
 Oct. 1 
 Oct. 5 
 Sept. 25 
 Oct. 1 
 
 dia. depth. 
 5 by 3^ 
 
 H 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 5 
 
 4 . 
 5i , 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 4 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 3 
 
58 
 
 Chrysanthemum Coltube for the Million. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Jeanne d' Arc 
 
 John Doughty 
 
 JohnFulford 
 
 John Salter 
 
 Lady Hardinge 
 
 Lord Alcester 
 
 Lord Rosebery 
 
 Lord Wolseley 
 
 Lucy Kendall 
 
 Mdme. Darier 
 
 Miss M. A. Haggas 
 
 Mr. Brunlees 
 
 Mrs. Heal 
 
 Mrs. J. Mitchel ... 
 Mrs. Norman Davis 
 Mrs. R. Bahuant . . . 
 Mrs. R. C. Kingston... 
 Mrs. Robinson King, 
 Mrs. S. Coleman .... 
 
 Mrs. W. Shipman 
 
 Nil Desperandum .... 
 
 Owen's Crimson 
 
 Prince Alfred 
 
 Princess of Teck .... 
 
 Princess of Wales 
 
 Queen of England . 
 
 Robert Petfield 
 
 Violet Tomlin 
 
 W. Tunnington 
 
 purplish white 
 
 fawn, suffused rose . 
 
 crimson-red 
 
 cinnamon-red 
 
 rose 
 
 primrose-yellow 
 
 rose-purple 
 
 bronze-red 
 
 red 
 
 yellow, shaded purple-red 
 
 yellow 
 
 Indian-red 
 
 pure white 
 
 amber 
 
 golden yellow 
 
 rose-purple 
 
 lilac-pink 
 
 deep yellow 
 
 rose, shaded yellow 
 
 fawn 
 
 orange-red 
 
 carmine-rose 
 
 white, suffused pink 
 
 blush rose 
 
 rose-blush 
 
 silver-rose 
 
 violet-purple 
 
 buff-brown , 
 
 Height. 
 
 tall 
 
 tall 
 
 med. ... 
 
 tall 
 
 dwarf... 
 med. ... 
 med. ... 
 
 tall 
 
 tall 
 
 med. ... 
 
 tall 
 
 med, ... 
 
 tall 
 
 dwarf... 
 dwarf... 
 
 tall 
 
 med. ... 
 med. ... 
 
 tall 
 
 dwarf. . . 
 
 tall 
 
 dwarf... 
 
 tall 
 
 dwarf... 
 
 tall 
 
 med. ... 
 med. ... 
 
 tall 
 
 med. .., 
 
 The dates given for '* securing" the buds are suitable for nearly all districts froii~' 
 on some varieties in the Northern districts, and, as a general rule, the shows, too, are 
 advisable to place " "~ " .■— ». y^^ jjjj^j given ii^ 
 
Chrysanthemum Cultuee for the Million. 
 
 When to secure the Final Bud. 
 
 Date to House 
 the Plants. 
 
 Size of Bloom 
 in inches. 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 dia. 
 5 
 
 depth, 
 by 4 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5 
 
 1, 3i 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5 
 
 .1 3* 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H 
 
 „ 3i 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 H 
 
 ., 2^ 
 
 Oct. 1—5 
 
 H 
 
 M 4 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 4 
 
 „ 3 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 5 
 
 M 3h 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 U 
 
 • 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 4 
 
 ' H 
 
 Oct. 1—5 
 
 H 
 
 , 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H 
 
 , 3J 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H 
 
 . 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H 
 
 , 2^ 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H 
 
 ■ H 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5 
 
 , 3J 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H 
 
 1 H 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5 
 
 . 4 
 
 Oct. 1—5 
 
 H ' 
 
 , 3 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 4 , 
 
 ■ H 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 4 , 
 
 , 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5 , 
 
 3^ 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 5 , 
 
 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 4 , 
 
 2* 
 
 Oct. 5 
 
 5 , 
 
 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5i , 
 
 4 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 H ' 
 
 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 5 , 
 
 3 
 
 Oct. 1 
 
 4 , 
 
 3 
 
 terminal, August 30 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 terminal, August 25 
 
 terminal, August 20 
 
 crown, August 25 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 20, Sept. 15.. 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 25 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 terminal, August 30 
 
 crown, August 25 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 20 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 20, Sept. 8... 
 
 terminal, August 30 
 
 crown or terminal, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, Aug. 15, Sept. 8... 
 
 crown, August 20 
 
 crown or terminal, August 20 — 30 ... 
 crown, August 20 
 
 >tb to South of Great Britain ; but the best buds will naturally be a little later in showing 
 t than in the South. But as regards the right time for housing the plants, it will be 
 ijoing ta 
 
60 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 
 
 To tabulate the undermentioned varieties would be to 
 repeat the same details in reference to most of them ; we 
 therefore propose to give a selection of the best sorts in 
 each section (those which will be found to be most useful to 
 growers) together with their colours. If the cultivator 
 wishes to exhibit ; to obtain the best blooms he must not 
 secure the very early crown buds. Late crown and 
 terminal buds give the best formed and neatest flowers, 
 especially of the Pompon, Pompon-anemone, and Single 
 varieties. Crown buds should be secured as late as possible 
 — in the ordinary way of cultivation, of course. Between 
 August 15th and September 15th is the best period in 
 which to secure the buds of the following varieties to obtain 
 the blooms in their best form : — 
 
 EIGHTEEN EEELEXED. 
 Annie Salter, golden yellow, dwarf; Cloth of Gold, 
 light yellow, tall; Chevalier Domage, yellow, dwarf; 
 CulUngfordii, crimson, dwarf; Dr. Sharpe, purple-magenta, 
 dwarf; Distinction, golden yellow, tall; Emperor of China, 
 white, suffused blush, tall ; Elsie, pale yellow, dwarf ; 
 Golden Christine, fawn yellow, dwarf ; Irene, white, shaded 
 rosy buff, medium; Julie Lagrav^re, cinnamon-red, dwarf; 
 King of Crimsons, crimson, dwarf; Peach Christine, rose- 
 pink, dwarf; Pink Christine, light pink, dwarf; Putney 
 G«orge, crimson, medium ; R. Smith, crimson, yellow base, 
 medium ; White Christine, white, dwarf ; William Neville, 
 orange and red, medium. 
 
 SIXTEEN JAPANESE ANEMONES. 
 Bacchus, crimson, dwarf; Fabian de Mediana, lilac, 
 shaded purple, medium ; Jeanne Marty, blush-white, shaded 
 lilac, tall ; Judge Hoitt, pink, taU ; Madame Berthe Pigny, 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 61 
 
 rose, shaded yellow, medium; Madame Clos, rose-lilac 
 
 florets, tipped yellow, medium; M. Pankoucke, purple, 
 
 disc tipped bronze, medium; Madame R. Owen, white, 
 
 disc shaded yellow, tall; Madamoiselle Cabrol, rose-pink, 
 
 dwarf; Marguerite SoUeville, rose-lilac, medium; Marguerite 
 
 Villageoise, blush, disc rose, medium ; M. Charles Lebocqz, 
 
 buff, disc yellow, tall ; Sabine, sulphur-yellow, medium ; 
 
 Soeur Dorothee Souille, light rose, dwarf ; Sir W. Raleigh, 
 
 pale blush, medium ; W. W. Astor, blush, shaded rose, 
 
 medium. 
 
 EiaHTEEN LAUGE ANEMONES. 
 
 Acquisition, rose-lilac, disc yellow, medium ; Empress, 
 
 blush, disc rose, tall ; Emperor, blush, disc sulphur-yellow, 
 
 dwarf ; E. C. Jukes, purple, medium ; Fleur de Marie, 
 
 white, dwarf; Georges Sand, bronze, disc red, dwarf; 
 
 G-luck, yellow, dwarf; George Hawkins, yellow, dwarf; 
 
 Gladys Spaulding, pale yellow, dwarf; J. Thorpe, Jun., rich 
 
 yellow, medium; Lady Margaret, pure white, tall; Miss 
 
 Annie Lowe, yellow, tall ; Miss Margaret, blush, disc 
 
 yellow, medium ; Mrs. Pethers, lilac, disc rose, dwarf ; 
 
 Mrs. C. J. Salter, orange-buff, dwarf ; Mrs. Judge Benedict, 
 
 rose, disc yellow, medium; Madamoiselle Nathalie Brun, 
 
 white and gold, medium ; Prince of Anemones, lilac, dwarf. 
 
 TWENTY POMPONS. 
 Bijou de I'Horticulture, white, early; Black Douglas, 
 dark crimson, dwarf; Bob, reddish brown, dwarf; Cedo 
 Nulli, white, gold, brown, and lilac, especially useful for 
 specimens ; James Forsyth, orange ; Lizzie Holmes, light 
 yellow ; Madamoiselle Elsie Dordau, lilac-pink, early, 
 dwarf; Madamoiselle Marthe, white, dwarf; Marabout, 
 white, dwarf; Marion, deep orange; Model of Perfection, 
 rosy lilac, dwarf ; Miss Lily Stevens, white, dwarf ; Nellie 
 
62 Chrysanthemum Cultuek for the Million. 
 
 Bainford, bronze-yellow; Prince of Orange, orange-amber; 
 Snowdrop, pure white, grand for specimens; Soeur Melaine, 
 white, dwarf ; W. "Westlake, yellow, striped red, dwarf. 
 
 TWELVE POMPON ANEMONES. 
 Antonius, golden yellow, dwarf; Eugtee Lanjoulet, 
 yellow guard florets, disc orange, dwarf; Emily Rowbottom, 
 creamy white ; Firefly, scarlet guard florets, disc yellow, 
 tall; Jeanne Hachette, white guard florets, disc yellow, 
 late ; Mr. Astie, yellow guard florets and disc, dwarf ; 
 Madame Montels, white guard florets, yellow disc, dwarf ; 
 Magenta King, magenta guard florets, yellow disc, medium ; 
 Marie Stuart, lilac guard florets, yellow disc, dwarf; Miss 
 Nightingale, blush guard florets, light yellow disc, dwarf; 
 Queen of Anemones, crimson-rose, dwarf; Regulus, cinnamon 
 guard florets, bronze disc, dwarf. 
 
 TWELVE SINGLE-FLOWERED. 
 Admiral Sir T. Symonds, yellow, tall ; D. Windsor,, 
 brownish red, tall ; Effie, rich crimson, medium ; Ethel 
 Smith, pink and white, medium ; Florence, white, suffused 
 rose, medium ; Lily Owen, chestnut-red, medium ; Mary 
 Anderson, white, suffused blush, dwarf; Marigold, brownish 
 red, tall ; Magenta King, magenta, white disc, medium ;. 
 Miss Mabel Wilde, rose, tall; Miss Rose, white, suffused 
 pink, medium ; Mrs. W. Wood, pure white, tall. 
 
 EIGHTEEN SUMMER-FLOWERING. 
 Blushing Bride, rose-lilac ; Captain Webb, pink ; 
 Curiosity, lilac ; Golden Madame Desgrange, yellow ; Grace 
 Attiok, white, quilled petals; Lady Fitzwygram, white, 
 very dwarf; L'Ami Conderchet, white and yellow, free; 
 Madame Desgrange, white, dwarf; Madame Jollivart, white;. 
 
Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million. 63 
 
 Mrs. Hawkins, rich yellow ; M. Gustave Grunerwald, pink, 
 suffused blush; Mr. W. Piercy, red, changing with age to 
 orange; Precocity, crimson, good; Precocity, yellow; 
 Piercy's Seedling, bronze and yellow, good ; Snowdrop, pure 
 white ; White St. Crouts, white, dwarf ; Yellow L'Ami 
 Conderchet, deep gold. 
 
 FIFTEEN EAELY-FLOWEEING. 
 
 La Neige, white; La Vierge, white; La Vogue, 
 yellow ; Mons. Cossart, orange, good ; Mons. Hoste, deep 
 crimson; Mons. W. Holmes, rich crimson, good; Mrs. 
 CuUingford, blush-white ; Mrs. Dixon, golden yellow ; 
 Mrs. G. Glenny, primrose-yellow ; Mrs. G. Rundle, pure 
 white ; Bycrof t Glory, bronze and yellow ; Samuel Barlow, 
 salmon-pink ; Soeur Melaine, white ; Souvenir de Madame 
 Menier, crimson and gold ; Vierge Japonaise, white, good. 
 
 VABIETIBS ADAPTED FOE. SMALL POT CT7LTTJRE. 
 
 Soeur Melaine, white, dwarf habit. This may be grown 
 in pots and sold in the market in a growing state. Other 
 sorts which will answer this purpose, too, are Source d'Or ; 
 Lady Selbourne, white; Yellow Selbourne; Peter the 
 Great, yellow ; W. H. Lincoln ; William Robinson, salmon- 
 orange ; October Yellow, bright yellow ; Edwin Beckett, 
 yellow, dwarf. Of single varieties suitable for growing in 
 small pots either for market or home purposes the following 
 will be found most useful, viz. : — Miss M. Anderson, pure 
 white; Terra-cotta, a splendid variety; Freedom, yellow, 
 fragrant; and Gus Harris, rose, dwarf. When the cultivator 
 decides to grow plants in small pots for market, or for 
 decorative purposes at home, the cuttings should not be 
 struck before March or April, then, if the plants receive 
 
64 Chrysanthemum Culture for the Million, 
 
 proper attention afterwards, they will be well furnished with 
 leaves, and this is very desirable. 
 
 There are a great number of varieties of Chrysan- 
 themums — considerably more than a thousand. The names 
 selected and enumerated in this book are, therefore, only a 
 few out of such a vast array of sorts. They are, nevertheless, 
 the pick — the ones which possess the greatest merit — and 
 as new sorts are introduced every year in such bewildering 
 numbers, and with such high credentials, the young grower 
 will be puzzled as to which is the best to select. If he 
 makes his beginning, or adds to his collection by choosing 
 some of the varieties described in this book, and thereafter 
 cautiously adds each year a few new sorts of undoubted 
 merit, and does not discard old favourites before he is sure 
 he has better ones to put in their place, he will be on the 
 safe and sure way to success. Finally we would remind 
 growers that only about forty per cent, of plants under- 
 going average good culture may be expected to yield 
 exhibition blooms. 
 
 ^^^s? 
 
The "REX" Tags. 
 
 For affixing Fruit Trees and Creeping Plants to Walls. 
 
 J. nume Gibson's Patent, 9087. 
 
 Made from Medicated Waterproof Canvas with Brass 
 Eyelets and Galvanized Nails attached. 
 
 CHEAP AND EFFECTIVE. 
 
 In Boxes containing 3 doz., price 6d. ; or 12 doz.for IjQ. 
 
 Amateurs and Professionals agree that for handiness and 
 efficiency tliese Tags are unequalled. 
 
 TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 87, SOUTHEANK BOAD, 
 
 SouTHPOKT, October Sth, 1897. 
 Dear Sib,— In my judgment your '* Rex " Garden Tags are 
 in every way admirable, and to the amateur are a special boon in 
 respect to the great saving of time that they elTect. The work 
 which has hitherto been tedious and troublesome is now almost a 
 pleasure. Faithfully yours, 
 
 Mr. J. Hume Gibson, Southport. EDW.iED THORP. 
 
 The Nubsekius, Cambbidge Road, 
 
 SooTHPOBT, Sepiemher 11th, 1897. 
 Sib, — ^We have seen your Patent " Rex " Tags, and consider 
 they are the best things in the market for the purpose of nailing 
 up all kinds of climbers, and when better known will be extensively 
 used. Yours truly, 
 
 Mr. Gibson, Southport. W. H. STAKSFIELD. 
 
 To be obtained throughout Great Britain from 
 Seedsmen and Ironmongers. 
 
 WHOLESALE FROM 
 
 OSMAN & CO., 
 
 132, Commercial Street, LONDON, E. ; 
 
 OB 
 
 BLAKE & MACKENZIE, 
 
 School Lane, LIVERPOOL. 
 
81 HIGHEST AWARDS. 
 
 GOLD MEDALS from all the principal Exhibitions. 
 
 PDie iGiGilc Guano 
 
 ADJUDGrED by the most eminent growers 
 throughout the world 
 
 The most Reliable, 
 The Richest Food, 
 
 AND 
 
 The most Natural Fertiliser. 
 
 FOR EVERY FORM OF GROWTH. 
 
 REGISTERED, 
 
 Send for book, « All abont Ichthemfc," by the late Db. Tatloe, F.G.S., 
 Gratis and Post Free. 
 
 This Guano, for the convenience of small users, is put up in hand- 
 some enamelled Tins at 6d. and 1/- ; sealed Bags, 7 lbs., 2/6 ; 14 lbs., 
 4/6, carriage extra. Larger Bags, 28 lbs., 7/6 ; 56 lbs., 12/6 ; 
 1 cwt., 20/-, carriage paid. 
 
 May be obtained from the principal Nurserymen, Seedsmen, 
 Florists, and Chemists, or DIRECT OF 
 
 WILLIAM COLCHESTER, 
 
 IPSWICH, ENGLAND. 
 
 SHIPPING DEPOTS ALL OVER THE WORLD.