Cornell University Library CC312.D2 C95 1887 Ancient crosses of Dartmoor with a desc 3 1924 029 808 932 ■cc 3/SL JfT7 THE ANCIENT CROSSES OE DARTMOOR. The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://archive.org/details/cu31924029808932 THE ancient Crosses of Bartmoor; WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THEIR SURROUNDINGS. BY WILLIAM CROSSING. In many a green and solemn place, Girt with the wild hills round, The shadow of the holy Cross Yet slcepeth on the ground. Richard J ohn King — The Forest of the Dartmoors. EXETER : JAMES G. COMMIN, HIGH STREET. LONDON : C. ELKIN MATHEWS, 6, VIGO STREET, W. 1887. L.y M^£s^ Printers, Exeter. ^C^p^^ Prefaa. An intimate acquaintance with Dartmoor, the result of explorations extending over many years, has enabled me to gather much of interest per- taining to its history and its customs, and a close knowledge of the various objects of antiquity to be found within its borders. My researches in this region of rocky tor and rushing river I have never tired of pursuing, a love for its dear old hills, extending back as far as memory will carry me, attracting me to its wild solitudes, where, by the side of the stone circle and the moss-covered cairn we seem to stand on the border-land between the present and the dim and distant past. How much of poetry is there in the memorials of a people who have lived on these hills, and who saw the moor as we see it now ages and ages ago. There is truly a rich reward offered to the student of our antiquities which is denied to those who look with indifference upon the remains of a by- IV. $vdui. gone day. The light which the grey stones of the Celts shed around, enabling us to obtain glimpses of a people of olden days, becomes not obscured as we advance to historic times, for when we find the menhir no longer reared upon the heath, and the circle and the dolmen cease to be up-raised, the record is not broken, for the symbol of that faith which is the salvation of fallen man, rough- hewn from the moor-stone block, takes their place, and the lamp is still kept brightly burning. But these memorials which testify to the pre- sence of men who desired to see by the green paths of the moor the emblem of their religion, have in many instances yielded to the rude buffet- ings of the wintery blast, or have been cast down by those in whom, in a later day, these rudely fashioned stones could call forth no tender feel- ings. Too often have I discovered an old cross overturned and all but shrouded from view by the heather springing up around it, its broken shaft and mutilated arms silently upbraiding the carelessness which permitted it to remain prostrate on the ground. To chronicle the existence of such as were previously unknown and to collect evidence, if such might be discovered, respecting the time and purpose of their erection, as well as of those $xzitcct, v. of which mention had been made by others, has been to me a very pleasant and congenial task ; and the happy days spent on the breezy hills of the old moor in my search after these relics, which the companionship I enjoyed rendered happier still, will never be forgotten. My description of these venerable memorials of the days of yore originally appeared in the third volume of the Western Antiquary, upon the com- pletion of which the articles were reprinted. Further researches bringing me acquainted with additional facts, I contributed a supplementary article to a later volume of that magazine, since the appearance of which I have been able to add still more to my knowledge respecting these interesting objects of antiquity. The fol- lowing pages consist of a revision and extension of those articles, together with an Appendix, in which I have a;iven notes of such matters ft as seemed to me to require it to make the work complete. The accompanying map will be found of great service to such as are not well ac- quainted with the moor, as it will enable them to identify the situation of all the principal objects and places in its confines referred to in the text. In the pages of the magazine I have alluded to, I ventured to put forth a plea in behalf of these old memorials, and asked whether some- thing could not be done to preserve them to us. I pointed out that being links which connected us with a past age we could ill afford to spare them, and that but little trouble would be neces- sary to re-erect such as were fallen, so that the antiquary might no longer be pained at seeing them occupying an ignoble position. This appeal was not made in vain, for the Honorary Secretary of the Dartmoor Preservation Association was empowered by that body to take steps in this matter, and to this end communi- cated with me, and in the summer of 1885 the good work was commenced. A short account of our operations is given in the Appendix. Ere long, I hope to see the whole of these ancient crosses restored to a condition akin to that in which they originally were, — a hope in which I shall be joined bv all who are interested in the preservation of our antiquities. Splatton, South Brent, Devon, 7th March, 1887. Dartmoor, The wild and elevated tract of country known as Dartmoor is situated in South Devon, and according to Dr. Berger's report in Moore's history of the county, contains nearly three hun- dred and fifty square miles of surface. Other authorities, however, estimate it to be considerably less in extent, the difference arising accordingly as the various commons surrounding what is now considered as Dartmoor proper, have been in- cluded or not. These commons partake of its character in every particular, and undoubtedly at no distant time formed one with it. There is a large extent of moor-land lying to the east- ward of Moretonhampstead and Lustleigh, bounded by the river Teign, which De la Beche in his Report on the Geology of Cornwall, Devon and West Somerset, considers to be both geologically and geographically a part of Dartmoor, and it was by including this, and other similar tracts, that Dr, Berger arrived at the estimate he has given httmoox. of its size. These portions of moor-land have, however, been cut off by cultivation from the moor proper, and have not been included by the other authorities when making their estimates. In a report to the House of Commons the size of the moor is given as one hundred and thirty thousand acres, or two hundred and three square miles, and this we may consider to be the extent of what is now generally known as Dartmoor,' and over which the investigations, the results of which appear in the following pages, extend. The market towns and principal villages which surround it, and which are situated nearly on its borders, are Okehampton, Chagford, Moretonhamp- stead, Ashburton, Holne, South Brent, Ivybridge, Cornwood, Plympton, Shaugh, Meavy, Walkhamp- ton, Tavistock, Lydford and Bridestowe. Its most southerly point is at the foot of the Western Beacon above Ivybridge, and the distance from this spot to its northern verge, immediately above the market town of Okehampton, is, as the crow flies, somewhat over twenty-two miles. Its breadth is about ten or twelve miles, though at its widest part, from Black Down on the west to Ilsington Common on the east, it is over seventeen. These distances being from point to point in a straight line, it is needless to say that it would be im- ' glnttmcujr. i x - possible to traverse them without going over a much greater extent of ground. Dartmoor is a very elevated region, its average level ranging from 1,200 to 1,400 feet, while many of its hills attain an altitude of 1,700 or 1,800 feet, and some over 2,000, the highest summits being on its borders. Most of the hills are crowned with a rugged pile of granite rocks, known as a tor, and frequently assuming grand and fantastic propor- tions. Numerous rivers take their rise in the vast bogs which are found on many of its highest parts, among which are the Dart, which gives name to the district, the Teign, the Taw, the Tavy, the Avon, the Erme, the Plym, &c, besides a great number of smaller streams. Its principal river, the Dart, is sometimes erroneously stated to have obtained its name from the swiftness of its current, which, however, is not greater than that of many other of the streams on the moor. In all proba- bility it is a corruption of the Celtic word dwr, water, which root we find in the names of various rivers in countries peopled by the Celtic tribes. In many of its lonely and desolate parts the eye can rest upon nothing but a vast stretch of heath, with here and there a rocky tor, peeping over the gloomy looking ridges, a desert waste, from which even the faintest signs of civilization x. glartmoor. are absent. In others, deep valleys down which rush foaming torrents over rocky beds, the pre- cipitous sides being clothed with furze and heather, with many a huge granite boulder half hidden in the wild and tangled growth, the numerous tors lifting high their rugged crests and standing like sentinels around. King John disafforested the whole of the county of Devon, with the exception of Dartmoor and Exmoor, and the former has continued to be a roval forest down to our own dav. It is annexed to the Duchv of Cornwall, and is consequently always held by the Prince of Wales, but in the event of there being no male heir apparent it reverts for the time to the crown. Various per- ambulations have been made from time to time for the purpose of defining the limits of the forest, which lies in the centre of the moor-land region, its boundaries being, in some parts, several miles from the cultivated country, the intervening tract being claimed as common land by the numerous parishes bordering it, which parishes are known as lying within Venville. A perambulation made in the year 1240 may be seen in Risdon's Survey of Devon, but another which was made in 1609 is the one now generally acted upon. The bounds are defined by natural Pnrtmtnjr. objects, such as a hill, a tor, or a river, the com- mons, or Venville Precincts, surrounding it differing in no way from it in appearance. It is divided into quarters, of which the north is the largest. Ancient customs still survive on Dartmoor. It is a home for our old superstitions and legendary tales, — a place where much that found favour with our ancestors, and which, with questionable taste, is now voted out of fashion, still finds a refuge, and where freedom from all artificiality may be enjoyed. The artist may find there ample employ- ment for his pencil, the disciple of Walton may revel to the full in the pursuit of his art. The geologist, the botanist, or the antiquary have there a rich field in which to indulge their various tastes, and the lover of nature can never tire of the delights afforded by a ramble through the secluded valleys, and over the breezy hills of wild and rugged Dartmoor. In the accompanying sketch map the situation of the various crosses described in the following- pages are designated by a small cross with a refer- ence figure to the Table below, by which its name may be ascertained. The main rivers are marked, also the market towns which are situated on the borders of the moor, and the principal places ftartmoor. named in the work. The central portion enclosed within the thin line represents the forest, and the dotted line defines the limits of the moor, while the double lines show the direction of the high roads which cross it. I. Hobajon's Cross. IS- Crosses on Terhill. 2. Petre's Cross. 16. Crosses on Down Ridge. 3- Cross formerly at Buckland 17- Horn's Cross. Ford. 18. The Coffin Stone. 4- Huntingdon Cross. 19. Ouldsbroom Cross. 5- Pearl's Cross. 20. Crosses at Widecombe-in- 6. Roman's Cross. the-Moor. 7- Cross near Cadaford Bridge. 21. Cross on Rippon Tor. 8. Merchant's Cross. 22. Hameldon Cross. 9- Siward's or Nun's Cross. 2 3- Bennett's Cross. IO. The Windypost. 24. Cross formerly on Merripit II Cross on Whitchurch Down. Hill. 12. Cross on Walkhampton 25- Maggie Cross. Common. 26. Inscribed Stone at Stickle- 13- Childe's Tomb. path. 14. Crosses in Fox Tor New- 27. Cross at Fitz's Well, Oke- take. hampton Park. list rf plates. Childe's Tomb To Face Title. Map of Dartmoor Page xiv Huntingdon Cross ,, 14 Roman's Cross ,, 20 Cross near Cadaford Bridge - ,,22 Merchant's Cross „ 24 Siward's or Nun's Cross ,, 28 The Windypost ,, 38 Crosses in Fox Tor New-take ,, 64 Bennett's Cross „ 94 Cross at Fitz's Well, Okehampton Park , f io§ THE HE crosses which are to be found on Dartmoor, like most of our Devonshire examples, are of ^d simple form, and cannot boast of the beauty which belongs to some of those existing to the westward of the Tamar. A few only possess any ornamentation, and that in a very slight degree ; and, with one or two exceptions, no inscriptions are to be seen on them. Their surroundings, however, invest them with a charm peculiarly their own ; for we cannot behold these old lichen-stained and weather-beaten me- morials of the past, standing in close proximity to the remains of the rude habitations of the Celts, without contrasting in our minds the dark times when those huts were peopled, with the clear daylight which beamed forth when the cross was planted, and with the blessings which Christianity has spread over the land. Among the grey tors they stand in solitude — the far-stretching heath on every side — with no sound to break the stillness that reigns around but the rushing of the streams from the rugged hill-sides. B JUtrimt (Stresses x»f gartrmror. As we gaze upon them, we can let our thoughts stray back to the time when they were first reared, and in fancy may see the wondrous events which have since taken place on the stage of this world's vast theatre. Nor will it fail to strike us how little have all these events affected what we can see around us. The granite tors still lift their lofty heads to the sky, the blossoms of the mountain still wave on the heath, the stream yet pursues its way over its rocky bed, and all is here unchanged. While events which have shaken the outside world, and have decided the fate of nations have been occurring, these hills and valleys, huge rocks and winding streams, have remained as in the days of old, and these venerable stone crosses have been lost in the solitariness of the moorlands. At early morn when all is fresh and bright, when the dew-drops sparkle on the heather, " And drowned in yonder living blue, The lark becomes a sightless song,'' the impressionable mind will experience a pleasure- able emotion at beholding here, far from the haunts of man, the emblem of the Christian faith. At the hour of sunset, when the shades of evening are beginning to settle over the wilds, and we hear that moaning sound so peculiar to the Dartmoor rivers as the twilight approaches, a calm feeling steals over us, which is heightened when, perchance, we find ourselves beside an old granite cross, alone on the heath ; and when night spreads her dark robe over mountain and plain, and the sole light is that which is lent by the pale stars, that form will forcibly Hjobaj.cm'0 ©toss. remind us of the power which the religion of the cross has exercised over the darkness of our land, and which it has so happily dispelled. The hands that fashioned these time-worn relics have long since mouldered in the tomb ; and they themselves are oft-times overturned and shattered, deeply impressing us, as we contemplate their ruin, with the certainty that all the works of man will fall and crumble away before the touch of Time. It is not difficult to determine for what purpose the cresses on Dartmoor were erected. That some were simple boundary marks is certain, and others were very probably set up to point out the direction of the ancient moor-tracks. It would seem that their position often indicated the point where two roads crossed, or where one diverged from another; and as these old tracks were in manv cases nothing' J o more than a grassy path, and in places scarcely to be distinguished, such marks were of the greatest utility, and no doubt often safely guided the traveller when pursuing his way over the hills of the silent moor. ^dbajan'0 In commencing our examination of these (Krogig. crosses we shall direct our steps to Three Barrows, a lofty hill rising high above the left bank of the Erme, where, on the slope near the summit, we shall find the shattered remains of one, lying amid the granite with which the ground is strewed. This hill, which is about two miles to the northward of Harford Church, is crowned with three large cairns, whence its name, and during an exploration of one of them by Mr. Jlttcient drosses of gartmoxrr. Spence Bate, recorded in the fifth volume, (1872) of the Transactions of the Devonshire Association, part of a cross, consisting of one of the arms and the top of the shaft, was found near at hand. This, he, with great probability, supposed to be a portion of one which he states was set up by a jury of survey, empanelled to settle some bounds in this part of the moor about a century and a half before. He also considered that in it he saw all that remained of a cross which is mentioned on an old map of Dartmoor as Hobajon's Cross, and which is there represented as standing on two steps, and is situated nearly in the middle of a row of upright stones. This row extends from Butterdon Hill, near the Western Beacon above Ivybridge, to with- in a short distance of Sharp Tor, which overlooks the enclosure known as Piles New-take. At the former place it is seen leading directly from a circle thirty-five feet in diameter, of which the stones, with the exception of two, (and those partially so) are fallen. This encloses a small cairn about twenty feet in diameter, much dilapidated. It has been supposed that the old map in question dates back as far as 1240, in which year a perambu- lation of the forest was made, or even earlier ; but, as Mr. J. Brooking Eowe points out in his Cister- cian Houses of Devon* this cannot be the case, because on it there is a representation of the Abbey Church of Buckland, which Abbey was not founded until 1278. He considers it to be of two centuries later date. Further on, I shall bring forward some evidence which I think will show that this view is 1 Transactions Devon Association, vol. vii., p. 345. gjjobajmt'js Gbcoes. the more correct one ; but without going into this question now, it certainly appears from the map, that a cross was standing in the stone-row at the time it was drawn, but I am not so sure that it was ever fixed on steps as it is there represented. Another cross, which I shall notice hereafter, is shown on the map as standing on steps in the same manner, although nothing of the sort is to be seen near it now, so that it is possible that this was nothing more than a conventional mode of the draughtsman to indicate the existence of these crosses, and it was not, perhaps, intended, or considered necessary, to convey a perfectly correct idea of their form. Mr. Bate accounts for the cross being erected in the stone row on the hypothesis that those who reared it, finding the dark clouds of superstition clinging to the heathen relic, were anxious to plant the symbol of Christianity amid the rude erections of the Pagans. This, indeed, may have been the case, but I am inclined to think it quite as probable that the cross was erected simply as a boundary mark. When the object for which the stone-row was primarily erected was forgotten, it was naturally looked upon as a boundary, and still continues to serve as such, constituting, as far as it extends, the line which separates Ugborough and Harford Moors. As fresh perambulations of the bounds were made, in all likelihood new marks were added, and Hobajon's Cross we may not un- reasonably consider to be one of these. The mutilated cross which is at present to be seen, consists, as stated, of the top of the shaft and JUuient (tarss«0 cf jllarimaflt one of the arms only. This arm is ten inches in length, the shaft measuring sixteen inches from its upper surface, and being about fourteen inches in width. As the sides of it, however, are not quite parallel, the width is not the same throughout, but is rather greater at the top. It must have been a massive cross when in its complete state, with a breadth across the arms of about two feet eight inches ; its height, of course, it is impossible to determine. The fracture runs across in an oblique direction from under the remaining arm. One side of the shaft is ten inches in thickness, the other only seven inches. It is now lying on the slope of the hill toward the river Erme, not far from the north-western cairn. From the absence of any other cross near the spot, I think we may safely conclude that this is the one that the jury, whom Mr. Bate speaks of, erected on one of the cairns on this hill ; and that it is also the old Hobajon's Cross is nearly certain, for, although the existence of this mutilated head is not generally known, the name still lingers here — a small heap of stones at no great distance from the top of the hill being called bv the moor-men, Hobajon's Cross. This point forms the starting place when the bounds of a portion of the moor in this locality, over which the lord of the manor of Ermington exercises certain rights, are perambulated — the first record of such perambulation being in the year 1603. If the supposition be correct, as no doubt it is, that we now see on Three Barrows a portion of this ancient cross, we know that it must have been Hobajon's (&V023- brought from the stone-row, as we have no reason to consider the map wrong in representing it as standing there, but other hands, I think, than those of the jury of survey did this. From the fact of the manor boundary mark bearing the name of Hobajon's Cross, it would seem likely that at one time it was erected there, in which case we should perhaps be inclined to consider that those who were engaged in marking out those bounds, were concerned in the removal of the cross ; but T am of opinion that they were not those who took it from its original position, although it is not impossible that they may have used it as a mark to their boundary. In the account of Buckfast Abbey in Dr. Oliver's Monasttcon there is an inquisition on the boundary of Brent Moor, dated 1557, 1 at which time certain rights and privileges pertaining to it were held by Sir William Petre in virtue of his possession of the manor of South Brent. This boundary line was marked by four crosses at certain points ; one on the centre cairn at Three Barrows, one on the cairn known as Western Whitaburrovv, a third at Buck- land Ford, and a fourth at the confluence of the Avon or Aune with the Western Wellabrook, and they each had the words " Bunda de Brentmore," engraven on their faces. I am inclined to believe that it was for the purpose of serving as a mark to these bounds that Hobajon's Cross was taken from the row of stones, and if it ever stood on the little cairn marking the boundary of the lands over which the manorial rights of Ermington extend, it was 1 Monasttcon Dioecesis Exoniensis, p. 378. Jtttcieitt attests of. ~§&ttmom. taken there from Three Barrows, in which case the jury of survey, to whom Mr. Bate has alluded, must have found it there, and set it up once more upon the great cairn on the hill. There is no trace of any inscription to be seen on the portion which now remains of this interesting relic, and how it became so mutilated it is impossible to say. I have carefully examined the stone-row on- several occasions, but could never find any traces of the steps, as shewn on the map, and, as before observed, it is doubtful whether they ever existed. On a stone at the extreme end of the row 1 nearest Sharp Tor, and which is much larger than most of the others which compose it, I observed a small incised cross measuring seven inches in height and five and a half inches across. This stone is evidently an addition to the row, but is distinguishable, at a glance, from a modern boundary post. It stands about three and a half feet above the ground, and appears to mark some important point, as it is placed in the middle of a small, rough, circular pavement, about six feet nine inches in diameter. May we not allow that there is a probability that this inscribed stone marks the spot, where, in years long since flown, the old cross was standing, and that it was set up after the removal of the latter as a memorial of it by those who were interested in preserving these particular bounds ? I do not forget that the map represents 1 From its commencement at the circle on Butterdon Hill, to its termination at this stone, the row is 1,791 yards in length. The distance of the centre cairn on Three Barrows from the stone is 2,325 yards. |f)obiijfltt'0 Qttoss. Hobajon's Cross as being in the centre of the stone- row, and this stone, as I have said, is at its end ; but the row is continued from this point by modern boundary stones, and in all probability was so con- tinued by older ones at the time the map was drawn, so that if the cross really stood on the spot in question, in placing it in the middle of the row, the map would be substantially correct. There is one consideration we must not overlook, which is, that it would not have been a very difficult task to have removed the cross from Three Barrows, and to have re-erected it in the row, instead of setting up another stone there in its place. But it is not unlikely that it may have been found broken, though perhaps not in such a mutilated state as we see it now, and was no longer in a condition to be placed in its old position. The view from the commanding height of Three Barrows, or as old records have it, Threberis, is one of great variety and beauty. A large portion of the country lying between the southern frontier of Dartmoor and the Channel is spread out before us like a magnificent panorama, and the most prominent headlands on the South Devonshire coast are plainly visible. On the other side we look into the moor. Away to the northward is seen the boggy land in the neighbourhood of Erme Head, with the distant tors peeping over the dark brown ridges. On our left, the river flows at a great distance below the wind-swept height on which we stand, and Piles Wood is discernible far down the steep, stretching along the bank of the stream. JUrient QLvog0Z0 oi fJnrttnxKur. Before leaving Three Barrows we must not omit to observe the fine track-line which runs up from the East Glaze to the centre cairn, and pursues its course down the slope of the hill towards the little stream that falls into the Erme. Metre's Proceeding in a northerly direction we Cross, shall make our way towards Western Whitaburrow, one of the bounds of the forest ; and in so doing shall follow the line of posts that mark the boundary of Brent Moor, which boundary appears to be indicated on the old map by a line on which are placed what seems to be meant for three stones. The cairn which bears the name of Western Whitaburrow is sixty-three yards in circumference, and according to the inquisition alluded to, the second cross marked with the words " Bunda de Brentmore " stood here. Until about the year 1847 it was to be seen erect on the centre of the cairn ; but it was then partially destroyed by some workmen in the employ of a company which was formed for the purpose of extracting naphtha from the peat that here abounds, but which was not a success. The works were close to Shipley Bridge, and the peat was taken thither from this spot on tram-waggons ; the old tram-road is now in a very ruinous condition, but still serves as a bridle-path. There being no place of shelter near, the labourers erected a house on the cairn with the stones of which it was composed, and, requiring a large stone as a support for the chimney-breast, they knocked off the arms of the cross and used the shaft for that Jjctrc'a Cross. purpose. The house has been taken down for several vears ; the walls, to the height of about three or four feet, being all that is now to be seen of it, but the shaft of the cross has, fortunately, not been lost. It is now set up on the cairn, and has recently had the broad arrow cut on it by the Ord- nance surveyors. It measures four feet in height, and about fifteen inches in width. The end which is now uppermost has had pieces cut from the corners, leaving a sort of shoulder, which has the appearance of having been made to fit into a socket, and I therefore take this to be the bottom of the shaft. The name of it, too, is still unforgotten, for the spot is seldom called by its older appellation of Whitaburrow, 1 but is generally known as Petre's Cross. Sir William Petre, of whom Prince in his Worthies of Devon gives us an account, and who was, as already stated, the possessor of certain rights over Brent Moor, was born at Tor Newton, in the parish of Tor Brian. He was Secretary of State in four reigns, those of Henry VIII, Edward VI, Mary, and Elizabeth ; and, it is said of him that 1 So spelled with the addition of an e in the Perambulation of the Forest of 1609 ; in that of 1240, the name is spelled Whyte- burghc. It is Eastern Whitaburrow, however, which is mentioned in these perambulations, and not Western Whitaburrow ; but this would appear to be an error, as the former spot does not form one of the forest bounds, but is situated on Brent Moor. The boundary runs straight from the confluence of the Western Wella- brook and the Avon to Western Whitaburrow. The cairn known as Eastern Whitaburrow is ninety yards in circumference, and twelve yards in height. The name is pronounced with the i long, as though spelled White-a-burrow. i2 Qnciznt Qttosszs of Qxttmoot. in this office he was " smooth, reserved, resolved, and yet obliging." He amassed great wealth derived from the monastic possessions which were granted to him. He died in 1571, and was buried at Ingatestone in Essex. (Cross ftirttterlg Our search for the third cross will at take us to Buckland Ford — so we BucMani jfori. shall make our way down the hill in a north-easterly direction, and, passing a bound-stone, shall soon reach the foot of a steep narrow gully, close to which we shall observe an old path, which we shall descend for a short distance to a point where it crosses a small stream which falls into the Avon just below. This is Buckland Ford, but we shall look in vain for the cross. I have carefully searched around the spot, yet have never been able to find it, nor can I learn that any one has ever seen it. Some mining opera- tions appear to have been carried on near the bank of the Avon, and it is possible that the cross may have been destroved bv those who were concerned in them. The old track which crosses the stream at this ford is called the Abbots' Way, and can be traced from Dean Moor for several miles, passing the source of the Erme, and the head waters of the Plym. It formed a direct means of communication between the abbeys of Buckland and Tavistock on one side of the moor, and Buckfast on the other. The name by which I have always heard it called by the moor-men is Jobbler's or Jobbers' Path, which it doubtless obtained from being used by ®rc03 formed]) at ^toxkkttb Jfo-rb. 13 the yarn-jobbers in former days. The monks of Buckfast were extensive traders in wool, and this commodity, and yarn spun from it, no doubt often formed the loads which were carried on the backs of horses on this old road. It appears more than probable that it passed near where Princetown now is, for I find that Mr. Burt in his preface to Carrington's Dartmoor, published in 1826, states that traces of a trackway called Jobber's Cross were visible across bogs near the prison. Although we shall be unsuccessful in finding the cross at Buckland Ford, we shall be well repaid for having visited the spot, for the surroundings com- bine to form a most pleasing picture of a moorland valley, secluded and quiet, closed in by hills on every hand. Behind us stretches the heathery slope known as Bush Meads, anciently Bishop's Meads ; to our left (in summer time covered thickly with ferns) a hill rises precipitously from the Avon, which here bends round in a fine sweep. On our right hand, the bottom of the valley is shut in by Dean Moor, and immediately in front of us on the opposite side of the river, is Huntingdon Warren, a fine bold hill of good hard ground, free from heather, but covered in places with scattered granite. Several enclosures, the rude erections of the Danmonii, are in sight, and tell us that this quiet valley was once thickly peopled by the ancient inhabitants of the moor. Not far from where we stand the Avon is spanned by a rude bridge of two openings, formed of slabs laid on a centre pier, consisting partly of i4 Jlttrimt Gttossts ot gartmoxrr. the natural rock, 1 and further up the stream we catch sight of a craggy hollow, from which the river seems to issue. On approaching it, we should discover that the Avon here falls, in a series of small cascades and widely-spreading rivulets, over a number of rocky ledges, and forms a most interesting picture. I^unttltgtion From Buckland Ford we shall follow (£rogS. the Abbots' Way to the Avon, and cross it at another ford, at a spot known to the moor-men as Lower Huntingdon Corner, immediately above the confluence of this stream with the Western Wellabrook. It is here where the inquisition says the fourth cross was set up, and we shall be gratified at observing it still standing erect a few yards from the bank of the river. It is now known as Huntingdon Cross, and is situated at the corner of the warren. It is immediately within the forest bounds, and close to the spot where the parish of Lydford (in which the whole of the forest lies) joins the parishes of Dean and Brent. On some maps it is called Buntingdon Cross, but this must certainly be an error. The name Huntingdon is not improbably derived from aim, water (in this particular instance the 1 This bridge, although constructed in a precisely similar manner to those which are undoubtedly of very ancient erection, is distinguishable from them at a glance. Here the edges of the granite are not rounded as they naturally are in the older examples. The two stones which form the roadway, and which once were evidently one, show the marks of a bar used in splitting them. The bridge, however, presents a very picturesque appearance. Huntingdon Cross. HEIGHT-FeW-AW-A-HA" FEET. Hhmtmgiicm t&voes. 15 name of the river which here flows by) and dan, a hill, i.e. the water hill, which certainly commends itself as a very suitable appellation, for it is bounded on two sides by the Avon or Aune, and on a third by the Wellabrook. Huntingdon Cross is romantically situated in a kind of hollow, the rising ground surrounding it being covered with patches of heather, with here and there a grey boulder of granite. All around is still and silent, save the low murmuring of the waters as they run over their pebbly bed. The only signs of life are the furry inhabitants of the warren, and, perchance, a herd of Dartmoor ponies, wild as the country over which they roam, and a few sheep or cattle grazing on the slopes. The cross is surrounded by rushes, and a dilapidated wall — the warren enclosure — runs near it. It stands a little out of the perpendicular, and is close upon four and a half feet in height. Across the arms it measures one foot ten inches. There is no trace whatever of any inscription to be seen upon it. Evidences of the occupancy of man, and of the works of his hand, are plainly visible in this spot. The Abbots' Way is here distinctly seen ascending the left bank of the river as it makes for the enclosed country above Dean Burn. Along the bank of the Wellabrook old mining operations have left their traces ; and on the slope of the hill to the east is a large circular enclosure, two hundred and eighty yards in circumference, and between it and the Avon are nine hut circles. Further down the river these hut villages are numerous, especially on the left bank. 1 6 JVntient (tosses ot ^artmocr. With our examination of Huntingdon Cross, we shall conclude the survey of the four which formerly served to mark the bounds of Brent Moor. pearl's Owley Gate, which opens on to Ugborough (JTrOSS. Moor, below the Eastern Beacon, will be the point from whence we shall next start. Here we shall observe a rough track, which pursu- ing for a short distance, and crossing the head of a little brook, we shall find has become a smooth green path of considerable width. By following this grassy road, which runs nearly due east and west, (and which we should be well able to do, even after it loses its present character and is covered with heather, for it is marked throughout the whole of its course by small heaps of stones placed at short distances apart) we shall reach the moor gate at Harford ; the path forming the most direct route between that place and Owley, from whence a road leads to Brent. We shall, however, find the object we are in quest of at about midway, and nearly a mile from the gate by which we have entered on the moor. It is the top of the shaft, and one of the arms of a very curious old cross, and it is much to be lamented that it has been so mutilated. It is known as Pearl's Cross, 1 (a corruption probably of some older name) and is situated by the side of the path we have been following, close to the point where it is intersected by an old road, which though 1 I know not how far my orthography may be correct, but I spell the name as I have generally heard it pronounced. $Cittl'0 Qltoss. 17 now exhibiting the marks of wheels and showing us that it is sometimes used as a way tor bringing in peat, is no doubt an ancient track, and can be traced a considerable distance. It passes between Sharp Tor and Three Barrows, and goes direct to Left Lake Ford, and from thence to one of the boundary stones of Ugborough and Harford Moors. From this point it becomes a narrow path, but can be followed as far as the stream which runs down Stoney Bottom into the Erme. Erme Pound is at no great distance from this place, and a little further on, the Abbots' Way crosses Redlake. In the opposite direction this old road may be traced to the enclosed lands on the south of the Eastern Beacon. The shaft of Pearl's Cross is missing, and the mutilated head is simply fixed up on a few loose stones. There is little doubt, however, that it is now found within a very short distance of its original site, and that it served to mark the path by which we have come from Owley, and also the one which crosses it. Although what remains of this cross is but a fragment, it is sufficient to show that it possessed a certain amount of roughly executed ornamentation. It appears to have been cylindrical in shape, and across the upper and under surfaces of the arm there are projections about an inch and a half high, and about two and a half inches wide. The same are also to be observed on each side of the top of the shaft, the only part of this which is now remaining. These must have given the cross a very interesting appearance, when in its complete C Jtrtrtent Qtveeste oi Jlartmom:. state ; and there is no other example of a Dart- moor cross in which this rude kind of ornamentation occurs, nor is there anything of the sort to be observed on those which are portrayed in Blight's Ancient Crosses and Antiquities of Cornwall. The portion which is left to us of this interesting relic, measures from the top of the shaft to the fracture, which is immediately below the arms, one foot eleven inches. One arm is completely gone, and the end of the other has also been broken. From the present extremity of this arm to the further side of the shaft from where the other has been broken off, the measurement is one foot five inches. From the upper surface of the arm to the top of the shaft it is nine and a half inches, and the diameter of the arm is about one foot. It presents a very weather-beaten appearance, and though ornamented in the manner described, is rougher on its surface than most of the crosses which are found on the moor. This, however, may have arisen from the wearing away of the granite. Turning our faces towards the direction from which we have come, a very pleasing view is presented. The little market town of South Brent lies at the foot of the lofty eminence known as Brent Hill, which rises conspicuously above the surrounding country. The vale of the Avon to- wards Avonwick, with the woods which cover the steep bank of the river, is plainly visible, and, as far as the eye can reach, are cultivated fields, with here and there a farmstead nestling amid the trees. On our right we perceive the rocks on the summit of the Eastern Beacon, and near us on each hand are several low, dilapidated cairns. lomnn'0 (jtosa 19 Proceeding once more in a westerly direction, we shall observe at a short distance from the cross, a row of single upright stones intersecting the path nearly at right angles ; and a little further on, we shall again approach the row of stones which runs from Butterdon Hill towards Sharp Tor, and which here crosses our grassy track. As Pearl's Cross is very much nearer the stone row than the cross on Three Barrows, some doubts may perhaps enter our minds as to whether the former may not be the old Hobajon's Cross after all, under a new name ; but the recollection that the name of the latter still exists near Three Barrows, will prove sufficient to enable us to dismiss this idea. The path will now take us down a slope, and we shall pass the source of a rivulet that falls into the Erme, just below Harford, and following the little heaps of stones shall reach the moor gate. A few minutes will bring us to Harford Church, and from thence to the bridge, on the road to Cornwood, which we shall follow, and after a beautiful walk through true Devonshire lanes, we shall find ourselves in that village. Homan'S The next cross which we shall visit is Cross. situated on Lee Moor, whither we shall now proceed by the road which leads to Meavy, and shall perceive it on the right-hand side immediately beside the highway, and at no great distance from the clay works. Rowe in his Per- ambulation of Dartmoo'/ has a passing notice of this cross, " the shaft of which," he says, " appears to have been broken oft, as there is only enough C 2 20 JUtmrtt Qtxoests cf Jartmoor. now left to raise the cross slightly above the large block, in which a socket has been formed to receive it." Since this was written, however, it has been placed upon a shaft, and properly fixed in the socket, and now stands erect. For this act of careful preservation, we are indebted to the late Earl Morley. I presume the old shaft could not be found, as the present one does not seem to have originally belonged to the head, but has apparently been made for it. Its sides and the face nearest the road have been squared, but the back part of it remains in its rough, natural state. The block in which the socket is cut, is about fourteen inches in thickness, and is circular in shape, the diameter of it being about three feet and a half. Whether this block always belonged to the cross or not, I am unable to say, but, as we know from Eowe that the head was resting in the socket cut in it before its restoration took place, it seems probable that it did. I have been informed that the head of this cross was found lying on the moor near at hand, and placed here for preservation ; but while this was so, it would not necessarily prove that the stone did not originally belong to it. Standing as this cross does by the road-side — if not in its original position, at all events not far from it — it was doubtless erected like Pearl's Cross to point out the direction of an ancient track, the forerunner probably of the present road. Near at hand, an old path leads across the common to the village of Shaugh, and we may not unreasonably suppose that the cross also indicated the point where this branch diverged. Roman's Cross, Lee Moor. Height, Five Feet Ten Inches. ioimm'a (Hxcrss. It is known in the neighbourhood as Roman's Cross, and stands five feet ten inches in height, and is two feet across the arms. The shaft measures from the bottom to the under surface of the arms about four feet two inches, and is thirteen inches in width. One corner of it is bevelled, and that the other should be so treated was probably in- tended, but from some cause or other it was left unfinished. It has been suggested to me that the name of this cross became attached to it in consequence of its being probably styled by those in the vicinity the Roman Cross, and so in course of time it came to be called Roman's Cross. If this be so, the name would, of course, be a comparatively modern one. It has, however, occurred to me whether or not the name may have been corrupted from Rumon. The Abbev of Tavistock was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Rumon, and the road, to which we may suppose this cross served as a mark, was doubtless frequently traversed by pilgrims journey- ing to that abbey, and they may have bestowed the latter saint's name upon the old land-mark. I must not omit to mention another object in the immediate neighbourhood, in which we find the same name as that of the cross occurring. I allude to the excavation known as the Roman Camp, which, however, seems to be nothing more than a remnant of some ancient mining operations. A tradition affirms that this cross was erected to mark the spot where St. Paul once preached, and we shall probably not be sceptical regarding it, when it is proved to our satisfaction that St. Paul ever set foot in Britain. 22 Jtnrieitt (&V08SZ8 of Ipartmoor. Many rude stone remains are to be found in the vicinity of Roman's Cross, but the spoliator has, unfortunately, been at work among them. The view from the spot where this interesting relic stands, embraces an extensive range of the cultivated country to the south and south-west, bounded by the Channel ; while to the north and north-east are seen the granite crests of numerous tors. Brent Tor is a conspicuous object far away to the northward, while the rocky piles of Great and Little Trowlsworthy Tors rise near at hand. (Cross near Leaving Roman's Cross, we shall pro- Catiaforll ceed by the road to Cadaford Bridge, 13rftlge. which spans the river Plym, or, as it is not unfrequently called in this part of its course, the Cad. Crossing it we shall make our way up the slope of Wigford Down, and, at a very short distance in a north-westerly direction, shall come upon a portion of what must once have been a remarkably fine cross. It was discovered lying near here by the soldiers encamped in the vicinity, during the Autumn Manoeuvres in 1873, and was set up by them, to commemorate some event, on the centre of a small grassy mound, rather more than nine feet in diameter, and sur- rounded by a little trench. The greater part of the shaft is gone, but the portion now remaining measures from the surface of the ground to the top, about two and a half feet, and across the arms, two feet five inches. The width of the shaft below the arms is thirteen inches, and from the upper surface of the arms to the top of the shaft, it is Portion of Cross near Cadaford Bridge. Height, Two-and-a-Half Feet. (Exoas near (Eabaforb $$ribge. 23 exactly twelve inches. The shaft tapers from the arms upward ; below them it appears to have had its sides parallel. On one side of this cross there is a fracture, a piece being split off from it, but the face which now fronts westward is uninjured. On this side I observed three incised crosses ; one on each arm, and the third, a little larger than the others, in the centre, exactly where the arms intersect the shaft. There are faint traces of what seem to be incised crosses on the fractured side, but thev cannot be determined as such with certainty. We may not unreasonably suppose that this cross was originally set up as a mark to the same road that Roman's Cross served to point out, on the line of which, as I have observed, the present highway (which passes close to the spot on which the cross is now placed), was, very likely, formed. The surroundings are of a very pleasing character. The river, termed by Carrington " the ever-brawl- ing Cad " flows at a short distance from us, on its way to mingle its waters with the Mew, at the foot of the romantic Dewerstone, from thence rolling onward — • " Thro' arching bridges, moss'd by hoary time, Or, hung with clustering verdure, thro' rich meads, Till flowing on thro' Saltram's towery groves, It pours its tribute to the restless sea." 1 Trowlsworthy Warren house, with numerous enclosures near it, is seen on the hillside ; a few 1 Howard's Bickleigh Vale, p. 33 24 JUuwnt dtto0see of. ^nvtmoox. tors lift their rugged crests above the slopes, while Pen Beacon and its companion height of Shell Top rise above the whole, and a true picture of Dartmoor border scenery is presented. merchant's Turning our back upon this attractive Cross, scene, and following the road up the ascent in front of us, we shall soon reach Ringmoor Down, along the skirts of which we shall make our way to Lynch Hill. The road here winds down this steep declivity to the Mew, and at the foot of it, on the very verge of the common, we shall be pleased at observing a remarkably fine cross. In the vicinity, it is known by the name of Merchant's Cross, and is the tallest of any on the moor, being no less than eight feet two inches in height. It measures across the arms two feet three inches, and they are fourteen inches in depth. From the bottom of the shaft to their under surface the distance is five feet ten inches. Fourteen inches is the width of the shaft at its widest part, but in some places it is not quite thirteen. Just below the arms, the shaft is ten inches in thickness, but lower down is two inches less than this. On each side of it there is an incised cross in the centre of the shaft, where it is intersected by the arms. They are both of one size, and measure two feet four inches in height, and nearly fourteen inches across, being about one inch broad. The cross is in a fine state of preservation, a small piece only, from the under corner of the southerly arm, being broken off. In proportion to •^ri^..^ Merchant's Cross. Height — Eight Feet, Two Inches. Jttcvchstnt's QttosB. 25 the height of it, the arms are rather short, project- ing but seven inches on each side of the shaft, the top part of which rises twice that distance above them. It leans a little towards the east, and stands on a small patch of greensward on the right of the road in descending the hill ; two lofty trees, an oak and an ash, spread their foliage above it. An up- land road here branches off to Sheepstor, which is about two miles distant. There is a tradition that this cross marks the grave of a suicide ; but while it is possible that a burial may have taken place near it, it is more probable that it pointed out the road over the moor by which we have reached it, and that pious hands erected it with the two-fold object, perhaps, of serving as a guide, and also to bring forcibly before the minds of those who journeyed this way, the religion of which it was emblematical. Indeed, tradition now relates that the wayfarer used, before setting out over the waste, to kneel before this cross and pray for protection on his journey. A charming bit of scenery is presented from Merchant's Cross. We have lost sight of the more extensive prospect observable from the top of Lynch Hill, but we have gained a near view of a beautifully wooded little valley. Yennadon forms a barrier to the north, with a fine plantation of firs stretching part way up its slope. 1 To the north- east the thick foliage of BurratorWood clothes the 1 This common is generally known as Yennadon (or Yannadon) Down, but the addition of the latter word is, without doubt, a re-duplication. The moor-men exhibit a tendency to indulge in this propensity when speaking of the tors and other objects on the Jlttcient Qtvoeets at jsrimoxn:. side of the valley, and trees also cover the bottom, hiding the stream which courses along it, while towards the east are pasture fields adjoining the common, which stretches around to the point where we stand, and rises high behind us. The granite peak of Lether Tor is seen peeping over the trees at the head of the valley, forming a strik- ing contrast to the softer features in the foreground. We shall now proceed to Merchant's Bridge near at hand, beneath which flows the Mew as it emerges from its leafy screen, and crossing it, shall leave Meavy on our left, and mount the hill towards Yen- nadon, not for the purpose of examining another cross, but with the object of enjoying the view of the beautiful scenery which is commanded from that common. Did we visit Meavy, we should find the base of a cross in that village, and further back at Shaugh, should also have seen one standing in a hedge at some short distance to the eastward of the church, had we extended our walk to that place. These, however, would partake more of the character of village crosses, and although close to the borders of the moor, cannot, of course, be considered as Dartmoor crosses, and do not therefore come within the scope of these observations. We shall not fail to be delighted with the varied prospect which we obtain from Yennadon. Rocky steeps, smiling fields, hills covered with gorse and heather, thickly wooded glens, and wide stretches moor. Hentor Tor, Laughter Tor, Ingator Tor, Lakehead Head, Hameldon Down, are examples of this, and many others might be given. JBell J) col 47 keep along its verge, and shall be led directly to the pool. Lying in a deep hollow, Crazy Well Pool bursts upon the view suddenly from whatever side it is approached, but the best effect is produced by sighting it first from the northern side, where the bank is highest, and where a few steps will bring to our view — as by the wand of an enchanter — a broad, deep tarn, where, but a moment before, a common covered with gorse and heather, with a few scattered hillocks, alone met the eye. There is no doubt that this hollow is an artificial excavation, the remains, in all probability, of some mining operations, numerous old workings of a similar character being found all around this part of the common. A belief has arisen among some of the country people that the pool ebbs and flows with the tide, and that it has no bottom, the old story being still related on the moor that the bell-ropes of Walk- hampton church were once tied together, and let down into the pool, without finding any. According to Rowe, however, the pool was drained nearly dry, in the year 1844, in order to supply the deficiencies of the leat near by, and its depth was then ascertained. There is a ballad, from the pen of the son of Mr. A. B. Johns, the artist, founded on a tradition that Piers Gaveston was concealed on the moor, during one of his banishments, and the scene of it is laid at Crazy Well Pool. Here, at early dawn, clothed in a peasant's dress, Gaveston awaits the coming of the Witch of Sheepstor: — 48 Jltttiettt (Sxos&ts ot glartnuwr. " ' Where lags the witch ? she willed me wait Besides this mere at daybreak hour, When mingling in the distance sate The forms of cloud and tor. ' She comes not yet ; 'tis a wild place— The turf is dank, the air is cold ; Sweeter, I ween, on kingly dais, To kiss the circling gold ; ' Sweeter in courtly dance to tell Loves tales in lovely ears ; Or hear, high placed in knigthtly selle, The crash of knightly spears. ' What would they say, who knew me then, Teacher of that gay school, To see me guest of savage men Besides this Dartmoor pool ? ' " The witch comes not, but Gaveston sees her face grow out of his own, as he peers into the pool ; and, letters formed by a rush moving over the surface of the water, enable him to read his fate — " Fear not, thou favourite of a king, That humbled head shall soon be high." Alas ! A double meaning was contained in these words, as Gaveston learned too late. He returned to court, and once more basked in the sunshine of the royal favour, but a cruel fate at last overtook him — " Beside the block his thoughts recall That scene of mountain sorcery — Too late ! for high on Warwick wall In one brief hour his head must be." 1 1 Johns. Gaveston on Dartmoor.