ToUs^e SSSS5SSSSSSSSSSSS l^iniclieGii CORNELL UNIVERSITY ," BR*[fy 3 1924 086 713 777 ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. ex lihris ^i. ircaiiittg is in tJbe mittit, ^^txtisz is to iJbc htxh^f Jtttit man tteeits Wiit ttf be toltule. Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924086713777 MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN W^^t to ?|abe for J.uncI)eon BY MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN Author of " The Boston Cook Book" DODGE PUBLISHING COMPANY 23 EAST 20th STREET Copyright, 1904 by Dodge Publishing Co. CONTENTS Part I Lunelieons — ^Formal and Informal 5 The Guests 7 The Table and Linen 11 The China and Silver 13 Laying the Table 15 Decorations 31 The Family Table 27 How shall we serve our Luncheon? 39 The Menu 87 School, PicniCj or Traveling Lunches 41 Part II Plan of the Book 4?— 51 Table of Proportions 53 " Measures 53^ " Equivalents .- 5f Eecipes for Preparatory Work 57 — 78 " " Appetizers 81 Fruit Appetizers 91 3 Contents Stock SoTipa 101 Cream Soups 113 Pish 123 Shell Fish, etc 135 Potatoes 145 Entrees 153 Meats 161 Vegetables 173 Poultry and Sauce 183 Salads 195 Desserts 207 Frozen Desserts 217 PART I Lruncheons Formal and Informal THE GUESTS THE terms lunch and luncheon, mean- ing a light meal between the break- fast and dinner, are often used in- discriminately ; usually we say in daily par- lance, "What shall we have for lunch to- day?" but when we invite our friends to share the meal, we use instinctively the more formal and elegant word "luncheon." Some^ thing of this etymological difference haa crept into the meal itself, for the simple noon meal of the family, has become one of the most elaborate functions of modern soci- ety life. A luncheon is the popular form of ex- changing hospitality with intimate friends, or offering courtesy to a stranger. The hour The Hour may be any time between twelve and two*""'^ o'clock, usually one or half -past one; and the '^™'^''^'* guests are generally limited to women. It is a brave man indeed who can go through! the trying ordeal of "the one man at a ladies' luncheon." 7 The Guests An impromptu invitation may be given verbally to a friend whom one meets down town or at the club; but be certain that it is sincere lest you be non-plussed if she ac- cepts; and be careful so to order your daily regime that the presence of one or two ex- tra persons at the noon hour, will not dis- arrange Katy's regular work, or disturb your own serenity. Let your guest share what you have, with- out a word of apology, being governed by the principle that what is suitable to place be- fore your family, is good enough to offer your friend; and what the food lacks in quantity may be made up in variety, or at least in courtesy. But when you specifically invite your friends or strangers as a mark of honor, then honor them with the best your house Concern- affords; and invite them sufficiently in ad- inginvi- vance, to show that you are giving them ** °°" more than a moment's thought. Invite them by note, written formally in the third per- son, or informally, as occasion demands; and they in turn should answer by note, written in the same style, and sent within 8 The Guests twenty-four hours. Guests should plan to arrive not more than ten minutes before the hour, and on no account be late. Hats are not removed, except at very in- Hata formal affairs, and gloves not till seated at ^^^ the table. Any street or afternoon costume with a well fitting fresh waist is suitable. Guests go into the dining room on the an- nouncement from the maid that "luncheon is served," and generally find their places by cards. If there is no member of the fam- ily to take the host's place, some guest fa- miliar with the ways of the house usually enters first and aids in assigning places, the hostess coming last with the one se- lected to sit at her right hand. It is a pretty custom in some houses to seat the stranger guest first at the right of the host- ess, then while the table is being made ready for the dessert she changes with the one who is opposite the hostess. Many claim that ^^^ this is the place of honor for her at all piace times, for there she may better command of Honor the whole table; and as she is presumed to already know her hostess, this gives her opportunity for better acquaintance with 9 Tlie Guests the other guests. Where the stranger is a visitor in the house, and the luncheon is in her honor, it is eminently proper that she have this place; It would appear to be unnecessary to re- mind one that great judgment and tact are desirable in the selection of guests, were it not so often the fact, that many a luncheon is not a success, merely from lack of thought in this matter; or, to be more charitable, perhaps it is from lack of knowledge of all the w'hims and prejudices-' and imaginary slights, which enter so largely into mod- ern society. 10 THE TABLE AND ITS LINEN IF you prefer a round table and are not the owner of an heirloom of old ma- hogany, you can order a top made in sections, which can be fitted to your square table whenever desired. Where the serving is done at the table, the latter, whether round or long, should be wide enough to give ample room between the covers and the centre decorations. An excess of even four inches, two on each side, gives a vast amount of satisfaction as compared with! a table lacking that in width. But for a luncheon a-la-Eusse a small table will not be objectionable. Chairs with very high backs are in the way of the waitress and those with rounded seats and no low bars between the front legs are very uncomfortable for a long sitting. Several small hassocks will not come amiss. 11 The Table and Its Linen therefore bear these facts in mind when fur- nishing your dining room. It is always wise to provide a good qual- ity of table linen, the best your purse will allow. Firm, closely woven linen wears much longer than a thin sleazy material, and always looks well; if the cloth is of good quality and clean, there need be no undue anxiety when the unexpected guest arrives. The It is well to have the napkins match the Napkins cloth, but that is less essential than that they be of good size, a little smaller than the regular dinner napkin. Small napkins have their place but not at a formal lunch- eon. While if one is to buy new embroidery, something in lace, or without color may be the latest style, there is no reason why such pieces as you already have, if they are artis- tic, should not be used ; for when fresh flow- ers are not possible, they add a bit of color which is pleasing. 12 CHINA AND SILVER I CANNOT repress a feeling of impa- tience at the directions so often seen, to serve such and such luncheons, on blue, or pink, or some other dishes; as if everyone could have dishes of all colors and designs at her command. Most persons have to use what they have, therefore we give only a word to those who, perhaps, may be just furnishing their china closets. Select some simple pattern, either plain simple white or with a gold band or design, or style some conventional pattern in quiet colors; ^"'«''"«'' pink with a little green, perhaps blends with all flowers and foods, better than any other color. For everyday use many persons consider the old blue Canton china as the most suit- able and serviceable. But there will surely be some time when you will wish you had some other color; a whole set of anything will seldom be needed, but a few pieces of some more delicate coloring and texture will not come amiss. 13 China and Silver ■""e While our silversmiths ofiFer us utensils ^"'^' and implements designed for each course and each kind of food, unless one has am- ple means, it is not wise to buy too great a variety; for often one will answer for many purposes. A plentiful supply of sterling silver tea, dessert and tablespoons, and forks of me- dium size, and one set each of steel knives medium size, and silver dessert knives with pretty and serviceable handles, and a few pieces for special serving, will add greatly to the beauty of the table and the comfort of your guests. Very large or very heavy knives and forks are not desirable for lunch- eons, nor for dinner. 14 LAYING THE TABLE THE illustration, facing page 16, shows a simple and yet correct way to lay the table, when the polish admits of dispensing with the cloth. Large doilies of lace are laid at each cover The and in the centre, and a variety of smaller formal sizes, but all open work, are placed where- "°'^^^°° ever needed. Each cover, or place for each guest, has on it all that is needed until the dessert. First, the service plate, which is not re- moved until the first course after the soup is served.. This plate serves to hold the plate or cup containing the appetizer, oys- ters, soup, etc. In this instance, the appe- tizer is grape fruit and strawberries, served in glass cups and saucers, with a fruit spoon on the plate. At the right, on the outside, is the soup spoon and theii a knife next the plate; just beyond the upp^r corner is the tumbler. If wine is served it is usually LfSLyiikg the Table sauterne, and the glass stands a little be- low the water glass. Where space is limited the tumbler could stand on the large doily. At the left are the forks, one on the outside for the meat and one next the plate for the salad. It is always advisable to follow the Arrange- generally accepted regulation, and arrange ment for the kuivcs and forks, with the one to be used Knives first on the outside. Those that remain for Forks *^^ ^^^* courses are less in the way, and less liable to become mixed with your next neighbor's, than when on the outer edge of the cover. With a square doily, the lower edge of the handles may be all in line, but here each is a little above the other, follow- ing the curve of the doily. In either way let uniformity and accessibility be your aim, rather than mere display. Whether with or without a maid, it is better to have the knife and fork service for the dessert brought in with the plates for that course, instead of laying them all on at first. Guests have been known to be so absent-minded, or so absorbed in the enjoyment of the luncheon that every piece of silver at their cover has been used during the first course. 16 •a 2§ _o o o •- 3 C m g 2 j: c B J3 Laxin^ the Table The bread-and-butter plate, with the but- The ter spreader on it, is at the left upper cor- ^"^e^** ner; if placed too low, it is in the way of the g"^^^^ hand, and if on the right it crowds that side piate of the cover, and as bread is always taken from the left hand, especially when it is used as a pusher, this seems to be the proper place. It has been known to be so far away that it entirely escaped the notice of the guest. A spoon needed for sherbet is placed in sherbet front of the plate. The fancy individual ^p°°" salts are placed at the right front, and a Fancy bonbon box, fashioned like a pink rose, ^^"^ filled with nuts, stands at the left. The fish Bonbon and salad courses seldom need a knife, and box if the meat course should not, then omit the knife, as the butter spreader answers for the bread. In this case lay the forks at the right, as they will be used entirely with the right hand, then place the teaspoon at the left and draw the napkin nearer the plate. If oyster forks are needed, lay them at the oy»'e' outer edge or across the soup spoon, or on ^°^' the plate with the oysters, if you prefer. In brief, lay your cover each day, accord- 17 I^ayin^ the Table ing to your menu, and vary the minor mat- ters according to your taste and belong- ings; but follow the essentials carefully. Remember there is usually a good reason for well established customs, but accept fads and new fangled notions slowly, unless the reason for their adoption be thoroughly sound and sensible. The napkins are folded square, with edges even; — fancy foldings being too sug- gestive of cheap restaurants to be allowed on private tables. They are laid flat on the Napkina table, or in the service plate if space be Folded limited, with the fold at the top, and the Square juitjai right side up. See illustration (page 102) for bouillon service, where the detail of one cover is given. The place for the initial is in the lower right hand corner, taking the hem not the selvage as the bottom of the napkin; but it is often seen at the upper left hand cor- ner. It may be put on straight, or diag- onally across the corner, but always exactly in the centre when the napkin is folded for the last time into the perfect square. If fringed napkins are used, which are 18 Laying tlie Table usually folded diagonally in the ironing, and they are large as in this illustration, they may be folded over lightly withouit pressure to save space on the table; but I prefer not to hide a roll in the fold. EoUs belong on the small plate, where they are placed just before luncheon is served. Where the service is limited to one waitress, or none, the cube of butter may accompany the roll. Butter is not improved in flavor by rolling it into fancy strips or balls, except when it is to absorb some extra flavor of flowers or con- diments ; and a symmetrical piece, cut from a square pat, is a more appetizing morsel to many tastes, and a great saver of time and patience. Fancy china and cut glass dishes filled with radishes, pimolas, nuts and bonbons, have a place around the centre, within easy Arrange- reach of the guests, who are supposed to mentof be at liberty to pass and help themselves to ^®"*''*" these relishes without formality. In the il- lustration, the radishes and pimolas were removed to the corners to balance the light and shade for the camera. 19 Laying the Table With a highly polished table, it will be necessary to avoid having very hot dishes served at the table; and to guard against any possible blemish, a thick mat, made to fit, with an asbestos interlining, may be laid under those of lace or thin material. A bare table is more suitable for a summer luncheon, or where the menu is chiefly of cold dishes. Unless well polished and free from blemish, cover the table entirely or use large service doilies. 20 DECORATIONS THE service, being all from the side, or d-la-Eusse as it is termed, noth- ing else is laid on the table, except the decorations; but the sideboard, or serv- ing table, is supposed to have arranged on it, everything that will be needed for each course, like the water, bread, service for the salad and dessert, etc. In this matter of decoration simplicity is always allowable and to many minds is simpiic- in far better taste, than the over-loaded, fan- 'ty '" ciful, sometimes grotesque arrangements, j^^^^^^' or abominations, which seem to be the fad now, at least in photographic illustrations, if not on real tables. A single variety of flowers each in its own season, arranged in a glass vase to show the stems, or in a low dish, as best suits the flower, with its own leaves, or some more fitting green vine or fern, will always give pleasure. 31 Decorations So will also some simple arrangement for souvenirs, such as carnations in front of the plate, to be donned at once by the guests, or violets made into souvenir bunches, but massed in a low dish, and distributed dur- ing the serving of the coffee. Life is too short and time too full of regu- lar duties, and pursuits, and pleasures, and reading, and study, and other means of social and mental, and spiritual growth, to be frittered away in doing much of the deco- rating, that is merely an exhibition of the taste of your florist, or the depth of youi purse, but which often entails an undue ex- penditure of strength and money on the part of those who attempt to imitate the hostess who can afford this luxury. Therefore in this illustration we present only a bunch of white roses in a glass vase, with ferns around the reflector and laid carelessly, and yet with design, near the corners; and none of the dishes following will have anything but a simple eatable gar- nish. Anything in the way of table decorations that goes beyond simplicity in design, 32 Decorations should have some elemept of individuality, something appropriate to the guest, or the day, or the occasion; and if any one were to attempt to please every taste, or design something for every occasion, it would re- quire a volume, yes, many volumes, to even suggest anything that would apply to each of these varying conditions. It would be impossible for any one except a professional decorator, who knows the appointments of each house to even suggest appropriately. Therefore we will drop the matter here, with emphasis on this final resume. a Final Let the decorations of your table he your Eesumc fine linen, your lace and embroidery, some- thing that can be laundered well, and not of silk or satin. Let your floral decorations be simple, harmonious in color and especially in fra- grance; the odor of many strong scented flowers is too suggestive of funerals to be enjoyed with our food. Let the garnishings of the dishes be sim- ple, suitable, eatable, and not suggestive of hours of unnecessary labor, of stucco work or of French millinery. 33 Decorations In these pages I do not advocate, by il- lustration or recipe, any of the unneces- sary quirls or sham effects in garnishings which seem to be essential in some minds. Whipped cream and mayonnaise flutings have been so overdone, that it may be a re- lief to find that some dishes can be photo- graphed without them; and it surely will be a saving of time and food, if these some- what expensive materials, can be more simply combined with the dishes which they are supposed to improve. Tindesir- There is nothing attractive or appetizing able Gar- in pineapple served in its own hollow shell, nishing rpQ ^jq sure it grew in it, and when the fruit is perfect, the rich color of the rind might add something to the general color scheme of the table. But one who has once pared the fruit, or scooped out the pulp from its scaly covering would surely prefer not to have any suggestion of this outer coat when enjoying the juicy pulp. A cooked banana skin does not add beauty to the fruit inside, but with oranges, tomatoes and melons there is less that is objectionable. Eoses are queenly, indeed, in their place, 24i Decorations but no human hand ever made a perfect imi- tation; the most skillful artist cannot du- plicate the texture, so why waste your time in carving one from a turnip or beet. One should be content with the genuine article, en masse in the rose bowl, or care- Eoaes lessly disposed around the cloth ; for who can enjoy even a rose next her food, when she sees a member of the Macrodactylus sub- spinous family, or even the tiny Aphis, con- testing her claim to the cake. The brilliant plumage of our feathered friends is beautiful to look upon in life; but when laid over the stuffed and cooked body to simulate life, it surely is not eirtistic, much less harmonious. 25 FAMII^Y TABLE THE table (illustration facing page 28) is arranged to show the daily family luncheon service; or as it would be arranged for guests, when the serving is done by the hostess; the small The table at the right holding everything for the serving salad, fruit, nuts and cheese, and tbe shelf below hiding all traces of the first course after its removal from the large table. The decorations here are a centre piece of em- broidery, pink carnations on white linen, and so true to nature are their raised powers and green stems, that no real flowers are needed; the pot of ferns in a silver basket, on the reflector, giving jus^ the desired touch of real life. This is typical of a decoration which one could always hav^, independent of ;the florist, and ^ith no great drain on xine's pocket money. Tbe menu here may begin with bouillon, The or perhaps one of fhe thick soups, or a **«°" 27 Family Table chowder, which is served from the tureen by the hostess, and passed from one to another. Then might follow a course of creamed fish in ramekins, or croquettes, which could be kept warm at the range; or it may be cold meat, or something to be prepared in the chafing dish; but which ever it is, lay each cover with its needed furnishings, and have all the silver required by the hostess for serving the respective courses, at the right and left of her cover; have the water pitcher, bread tray, with wafers also, and the jelly jar, or whatever is needed, on the opposite corners. In this way the serving may be done without confusion, and the hostess need not leave the table more than once. Follow the same general rules as for a formal luncheon. Decide on your menu and then lay the table accordingly. 28 HOW SHALL WE SERVE OUR LUNCHEON? THE daily family luncheon is fre- quently a movable feast, hastened or prolonged to suit the conveni- ence of children who must conform to school hours. Or perhaps the monarch in the kitchen needs a chance for uninterrupted work on some arduous task, or the subject in the upper realms will lunch with her club. For these reasons it is well to make the service as informal as possible; but there should always be enough of formality to make it agreeable for the guest who happens in, and to prevent selfishness, or friction. This is a fine chance for the daughters of the house to take their first lessons in pre- siding, and also in serving; an art which can better be acquired by this actual prac- tice, than by studying the theories of others. 29 Serving Ltinctieon The For the formal luncheon, given without a Formal waitress, the first thing to be remembered Without ^^' *^^* ^* ^^ "^* ^^ unpardonable sin for the a hostess to leave the table for the necessary Waitress changing of courses. We intite our friends to honor them by our attentions and courtesies. How can we honor them more than by serving them? If we are unwilling to rise and ofifer them a clean jilate, or think we cannot entertain them because we have no maid, we might as well entertain them at a hotel. This element of personal service Is the The charm of home hospitality^ and nothing has Charm doue more td destroy its true ^spirit, than Ho^T* the attempt on the part of many families of t&lity moderate means, to, as Dr. Holmes so trenchantly expressed it, "ape the glittering upstart fool." Menus may be so planned that all this may be done without confusion, and doubt- less many persons who have always been accustomed to the attentions of a trained waitress, will enjoy an occasional respite from too much formality. Some member of the family, if there be 30 Servingf I^unclieon a daughter, or younger friend, should assist the hostess in this duty, that she may have the needed rest to enjoy the dainty meal, or time to devote to her guest. To do this service ^'decently and in order" the same general rules apply to each andi every occasion. While it is an established custom at a for- mal luncheon in some homes never to leave a guest without a plate before her, until everything is removed for the dessert, it is unwise, if you have no waitress, to follow this in daily life. It makes many unneces- sary dishes and muth extra work. When hot dishes are to be served by the hostess, the hot plates should be placed in front of Position her, not more than four or five at first, the "'""shes others at the side, if more are needed, family Whatever accompanies the main dish, may Table be placed nearby if it is convenient for her to serve it, or in front of one of the guests, who will graciously lend a hand in serving. All other courses will be served in the same way, the guest passing the olives, radishes, etc. But when the service of waitress or 31 ServiniS Luncheon daughter can be renderea, all plates or cups containing the portions designed for each person should be placed on the table di- rectly before them, or at the right, if it be some side dish, or coffee; and presented from the right side. Do not offer them on a tray and expect the guest to reach over and lift it from the tray. If service plates are on the table, the waitress takes the plate from the hostess in her right hand or brings it in from the side, and if it be soup, or any- thing in a ramekin, she places it on the serv- ice plate. When this course is to be re- moved, she takes the soup plate or ramekin, leaving the service plate on the table. Then she takes the plate containing the next course in her right hand, goes to the right of the guest, and with her left hand takes up the service plate and places the hot Always plate with its contents before the guest. Change When ready to remove this course she *''°™ simply repeats this, always remembering to Eight provide herself with the next plate before removing the one last used and changing always from the right. But any course which is presented on a 32 Serving LrUncheon platter or dish from which the guest is to, help herself, should be presented from the left, and held in the waitress' hand with a folded napkin under it (or on a tray, if there be two or more dishes) and held low enough and near enough for the guest to use her right hand in taking what she desires. Everything that accompanies a course ia removed with that course, and before re- moving the plates. Then, if the next course is served from the side, the waitress comes in with this course, places it before the guest as she removes the plate last used; but if it is to be a course served by the hostess, she leaves an empty plate before the guest, then brings in the course for the hostess, with several plates, and takes them when filled and changes as before. All this may seem complicated, but it is very simple, when one once forgets the old rule of "everything to the left," and adopts serve this more sensible method : '™™ t'^e "Place the filled plate at the right," JJ^'j.*' "Offer for choice at the left." Or to make from it even more brief, ti>e Left 33 Serving Luncheon "Serve from the right," "Ofifer from the left." The guest accepts what is set before her, toying with her bread if she cannot eat the course, but oifering no comment; she may accept or decline anything offered her from the left. The waitress should see that all are sup- plied with water, bread, or whatever goes with each course; usually no plates are re- moved until all are finished. The guest, when she has eaten one course, lays her fork The Knife and knife on the plate with the tines up, ^"^ and handles directly in front, that they may not be in the way in removing the plate. Never leave a knife or fork that has been used on the cloth ; and in passing your plate for a second portion, which is sometimes allowable on informal occasions^ lay them on the bread and butter plate, or against the roll, if no plates are provided. Before the dessert, the waitress removes everything except the nuts and bonbons; and with a soft fringed napkin crushed loosely in her hand she brushes the crumbs off into a plate or small tray. 34 Serving Luncheon Even in formal luncheons, the hostess often prefers to serve the dessert, for it is generally embellished in some way. The waitress brings her the plates and spoons or forks necessary, and one is laid on each plate, and it is passed at the right as before. Or, the waitress may bring to each guest, a plate containing a doily, a finger bowl, fruit or small knife, and teaspoon, with an The extra plate, usually of glass and smaller. Dessert below the finger bowl, if ice cream is to be part of the dessert. The guest immediately removes the spoon or knife to the table at her right, and the finger bowl with its doily at her left in front. Then she takes a por- tion of the ice cream, or whatever dessert is passed her, and places it on the glass plate. Then this is removed, leaving the under plate for the fruit or cheese, or whatever may be served last. This is also a con- venient way for the hostess without a maid, but she would probably have only one course for dessert. Coffee may be served serving from the side, and sugar passed on a tray the by the maid. Or, the hostess, if she pleases, ^°^^^ 35 Serving^ Luncheon may pour it directly from a pot over an alcohol lamp; or it may be passed by the maid later in the parlor, or poured by the hostess at a table in some cosy corner. Pro- vide cream, for some will desire it. Guests take leave of their hostess within an hour, unless especially invited to remain for some entertainment. A call within a week is not required after a luncheon, as it is after a dinner, but it would be kindly to, at least, show in some way, and very soon, your appreciation of the courtesy of your hostess. 36 WHAT SHALL WE HAVE FOR LUNCHEON? BUT tow shall we decide what to have for our luncheon? It is indeed a perplexing question, when one re- members the great variety of foods which our markets offer us, and the multiplicity of combinations our chefs have arranged for our enjoyment and possible assimilation. Freedom of choice is allowable in arrang- ing our luncheon menus, and individuality is particularly desirable ; for they are gener- ally too stereotyped to be attractive. One tires so quickly of such entertainments, if every hostess serves chops, or lobster New- burg. For the everyday family luncheon, two^ courses are suflftcient. One should be sub- courses stantial (but this need not necessarily be sufficient first) and the other should be of a lighter 'J'^'^ ^^ nature; and each may have as an accom- Luncheon 37 "What Shall We Have? paniment something which on a more cerei- monious occasion would be served as a separate course. By substantial, we mean some dish which is rich in proteid and fat; that is, it contains either meat, fish, eggs, cheese, legumes, nuts or some of the richer cereals: and by lighter dishes we mean those which contain a large portion of starch, sugar, or water — like white bread, potatoes, rice, light cakes, simple salads, simple puddings, succulent vegetables and fruits. Large roasts of meat or poultry are sel- dom served at formal luncheons, and but few vegetables, never more than one with a course. Potatoes are served with some kinds of fish, peas with chops, etc. ; any one vegetable in season may accompany the steaks or meat dishes, and a few are served alone. If your service and appointments permit, Only you may interlard several of the minor ^o"' courses between the principals, but it is gen- ^ °p"*^^, erally considered in better taste to have Luncheonionly fouF courscs, and of these only one should be substantial. Your main dish 38 "What Shall "We Have? may be either fresh meat, fish, game, or some rich combination of these v;ith other materials, never more than one of these, ex- cept for very elaborate occasions, then bfr gin with a very light appetizer or soup — not both — ^and follow it with a light salad and simple sweet; often the salad will be sufficient second course. If you wish to have a rich salad, like lob- ster or chicken (which, by the way, are suit- able only at such times, or for collations), have a simple fruit appetizer; or, if some- thing warm is needed, let it be a delicate cream soup, and follow it with a simple ice. Again, if you plan to have a rich des- Rich sert, let it follow a dinner of cold meat, or i>essert some simple vegetable served as a course, fo°,o„ like asparagus on toast, or creamed cauli- coia flower. One might go on indefinitely ***** arranging these courses, but if you compre- hend the principle you will adapt it to your environment better than another can do it for you. One point to be remembered is, not to serve the same material twice, even if it be in a different form. Unless it be that you in- 39 What Shall W^e Have? vite your friends to your country place to eat strawberries, or peaches, or to the shore for sea food: then the same thing might appear in several ways. But generally one does not care to have a cream soup and then a vegetable, and, per- haps, an entree in white sauce, or to have oysters raw, and fried, or as a salad, at the same meal. 40 SUGGESTIONS FOR. SCHOOL, PICNIC, OR TRAVEI^LING LUNCHES TIN boxes, or pretty baskets of suit- able size and light weight, may be found in our stores ; some of them fitted with compartments and receptacles for the various articles which are usually prepared for such occasions. It is better for children to have something especially for their own use, and which can be kept in good condition ; care being taken that the napkins (which might as well be The plain white Japanese, if your laundry bill Napkins has to be considered,) are fresh each day, and that all remnants of food are removed, the box washed and well aired, after each day's return from school. For a travelling or picnic party of any large number, and particularly if there is to be some conveyance to and from the place 41 School and Picnic Lunches for luncheon, it might be advisable to pro- vide one's self with a hamper elegantly fitted with every needful or imaginary article. They are marvels of convenience and help greatly in keeping everything sep- arate and in perfect condition and really tempt the appetite. There cost is gener- ally equal to their convenience, but for those whose purses will not permit such a luxury, a steamer cooker with its various compartments will be found a fair rival, as far as convenience goes. For the traveller on a short journey, and where dining cars are not to be found or patronized, there is nothing better than a paper box and some bottles or jars of con- venient size, which may be left when their usefulness is ended, in some waste bin by the way. There will be but few ounces of extra or useless weight, which is not the case with the imported hkmpers. These often weigh, when empty, more than some persons could well carry. Suggested The following menus will show the great Menus variety one may arrange for either of the occasions when such meals are needed : 42 School and Picnic launches "So. 1. Spiced beef sliced, rye muffins, cup cus- tard, bananas. No. 2. Boast beef or cold steak sandwiches, canned fruit, hermits. No. 3. Stuffed eggs, buttered rolls, oranges. No. 4. Chicken sandwiches, tiny rice puddings, peaches, milk. No. 5. Cheese sandwiches, gingerbread, prunes. No. 6. Tongue sandwiches, apple tarts, pecans. No. 7. Fishballs, Graham bread and butter, prune whip, lemonade. No. 8. Baked bean sandwiches, potato salad, ap- ples, gingersnaps. No. 9. Jelly or jam sandwiches, sliced ham, little plain cakes, milk. No. 10. Lettuce sandwiches, stem strawberries with sugar, cream cheese balls, cookies. Formerly such lunches were confined to sandwiches, cakes, etc., with perhaps a bottle of cold coffee or lemonade; but as cakes and rich sweets are often the things least to be desired, it is wise to provide some receptacle in which a greater variety of foods may be carried. Small fruit jars, with glass covers and rubbers, which may be tightly sealed, — tiny tumblers for a small portion of stewed fruit, or soft pudding, tiny custards, puddings and timbales, meat or fish, salads and many other foods, will 43 Scliool and Picnic Lrunches all find a place in the lunch box prepared by one who is willing to give some thought and time to this duty. .Waxed paper is almost a necessity, if things are to be kept separate and in attractive condition. Plates made of wood as thin as paste- board are cheap and especially convenient for picnics and travellers, where no table is procurable; and a cheap knife, fork and spoon add little to the weight, but much to one's comfort. 44 Part II Plan of tHe Book Tables of Proportions Measures and Equivalents Preparatory WorK R.ecipes 45 PLAN OF THE BOOK THE purpose in this arrangement of recipes is to suggest dishes which are suitable for luncheons in each month of the year, are simple and inexpen- sive for the daily meal of the housekeeper, who is at the same time cook and waitress, and sufficiently elaborate for the occasional time when she, or the one with ample help, wishes to tempt her fastidious guest or to do honor to her chosen friend. Many foods are seasonable at all times, some especially so during certain months, but generally foods are cheapest when they are in season in that locality; they harmon- ize best with other foods then in season, and are better relished then than when eaten out of season, except by those who are striving to "get on" in eating, as well as in their style of living generally. The recipes are classified under their re- spective heads as commonly associated, and 47 Plan of the BooK under each class the first recipe is supposed to be something suitable for the first month, the second for February, and so on, the last for December. From the unlimited num- ber of combinations of food materials, only such have been selected as will illustrate the different methods of preparation or serving, but enough have been chosen to give a great variety for each month. The recipes in the month preceding or follow- ing any given month will generally be equally appropriate. Each recipe is typical of many others which might be prepared in the same way by using different material, and from them one may arrange many menus, even for the same month, if she keeps in mind the limit of four courses. There are many dishes suitable for luncheons, both formal and informal, which wiill naturally occur to mind, from custom or seasonableness, but of which lack of space forbids more than a brief mention. lAmong these are many kinds of hot breads and muffins (left-overs from break- fast, perhaps), waffles and griddle cakes, 48 Plan of the BooK meat and fish left-overs, fishballs, omelettes, etc., which were formerly served only at breakfast ; but where the custom of making the first meal more simple prevails, these may be utilized for luncheon. It is often the only occasion where they can be util- ized; and if every housekeeper would make it the rule to see what the larder contains before ordering the day's supplies, much that is frequently wasted might be com- bined to advantage, and prove anew that "many mickles make a muckle." Cold meat from the plain roast, or when made into the appetizing loaf, is indis- pensable for the box or basket lunches for the school, the picnic, or the traveller. Potatoes, rice or macaroni, in combina- tion with meat, fish, cheese, milk and vege- tables, and served as stews, chowders, scal- loped dishes, croquettes, ragouts, and yes, — even as the much-despised hash, — have an honored place on the luncheon table. Then we have no better place for the unlimited variety of sandwiches, shortcakes, cookies, doughnuts and gingerbread, which the late dinners have driven away from their former 49 Plan of the BooR place at supper; some of them have reap- peared at our afternoon teas, but this popu- lar meal is only a luncheon at another time of day, than the one usually known by that name. The refreshing stewed fruit, or the baked and canned fruits, may be served alone, or in some of their manifold combinations with milk, eggs, and cream, as puddings, or some other form of dessert. Some of these combinations are suggested in the recipes given in detail, and for many of them each housekeeper already has her own favorite formula. Limited space also makes it impossible to give detailed directions for all the proc- esses in the preparation of each dish, or its cost, or the number it will serve. Ability to make fractional estimates is always de- sirable and often necessary in cooking and providing. Much must be left to individ- ual judgment and taste, for the most care- fully prepared formula cannot be followed at all times, or under all conditions. But the underlying principles of each method, or combination, and the propor- 50 Plan of the BooK tions, have been emphasized, leaving their adaptation to special conditions for each reader to work out according to her indi- vidual need. By keeping in mind the table of propor- tions (which is no more difllcult than the multiplication table), and being careful to add all seasoning materials in small por- tions at first, until you have gauged the family taste, one can easily dispense with the accurate "one-fourth-teaspoon-of-this, and the one-eighth-teaspoon-of-that," which is the estimate of some other person and may not suit your family at all, and find that "a dash of pepper," or a "shake of salt," or "just a suspicion of mace," is sufficiently accurate, and that "season to taste" is allowable. 51 Table of Proportions Equal parts of flour and liquid for batters. Twice as much flour as liquid for muffin mixtures. Three times as much flour as liquid for bread. Four times as much flour as liquid for pas- try and very stiff doughs. One tablespoon of butter, one-half teaspoon of salt and one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, to one pint of most vegetables. One teaspoon of salt to one quart of water, or one quart of soupstock, or two quarts of flour. One-fourth teaspoon of salt to one quart of custard, or one loaf of sponge cake, or one cup of white sauce. One-eighth teaspoon of pepper, or less, to one cup of white sauce. A speck, or dash or shake of cayenne, or paprika, is what would cover one-fourth inch square surface. A teaspoon of soda to one pint of sour milk, or one cup of molasses. From a few drops of almond, to one tea- spoon of vanilla, or one tablespoon of wine, for flavoring one quart of custard. 52 Table of Measures One rounded table or teaspoon, rounds up over the edge as much as the bowl of the spoon hollows below. One level table or teaspoon, is measured by heaping the spoon slightly, then cutting off wlith a knife just on a line with the edge of the spoon. Salt, spices, soda, baking powder and pep- per are more accurately measured by the level teaspoon, and the proportions given in recipes generally, are for fractions of level teaspoon. Butter, sugar, and flour are measured more quickly by the rounded tablespoon and by one with an accurate eye, as exactly as the level measure, and one who has been accustomed to the one motion, will seldom care to take the time for the two. One cup means a cup filled to the brim. The suffix ful is omitted now in all my writing of the words teaspoon, table- spoon, and cup; for it is no more neces- sary there, than to write pintful or quartful or peckful. 53 Table of Equivalents One cup is one-half pint. One cup of solid butter, chopped meat, granulated sugar, or milk, is about half a pound. One cup of flour is one-fourth pound. One rounded tablespoon of butter, or two level tablespoons, is one ounce, or one- eighth of a cup, or one-fourth of one of the squares of a pound pat of creamery butter. If this fact be kept in mind, one can cut off her tablespoon of butter with one stroke of the knife, and save the use of a spoon, or cup, and the waste that always follows the changing of the butter from one place to another. There is no one measure used more frequently in cooking than this same tablespoon of but- ter, and it is well to know how to esti- mate it in various ways even from the two- pound roll, or the mass in the firkin. This is but a fractional part of the arith- metic of cookery, but it will be sufficient to make the recipes intelligible. Si Preparatory WorK 55 BREAD, PASTRY, CAKES, BEVERAGES, SAUCES FOR ENTREES, DRESS- ING FOR SALADS, ETC. NOTES UNDER the head of Preparatory Work, we include the dishes which one must have at all times and sea- sons, but only a few of each could be given in a book of this size. Here again we repeat that if you understand principles and pro- portions you do not require specific recipes for every combination. 67 Bread, R.olls One cup of scalded milk, or half water, half milk, one-half teaspoon, each of sugar and salt (one teaspoon of lard or butter, if for rolls), from one-fourth to one whole yeast cake, according to time for rising, softened in one-fourth cup of water, and about three cups of bread flour, or half white and half Graham, or one-fourth white and three-fourths fine entire wheat. Mix in the order given and knead, or cut with a knife until smooth. Cover and rise until double in bulk, hastening the process by setting the bowl in a pan of warm water. Shape into two round loaves, put side by side in a brick loaf pan, or into balls, size of English walnut, placed in round gem pans, or into small balls, then into finger- shaped rolls, side by side, or into rolls partly cleft in the middle. Rise again and, when double, bake. Let rolls rise longer than loaf, and bake in a hotter oven. Pulled Bread Remove the crust from a fresh loaf while still warm, then with two forks pull off the 68 Pulled Bread soft portion in long thin strips. Lay them in a pan and brown in a hot oven until crisp and a delicate golden color. Serve hot with the cheese course. Croustades Remove the crusts from bread a day old and cut in blocks of any desired size or shape, and cut out enough from the centre to leave space for the filling of creamed meat, or fish, etc. Spread with butter and heat until crisp in hot oven. They are made also to serve as a foundation against ■which to stand cutlets, chops, etc. Croutons Cut bread in dice and dry, toast or brown in deep fat, use in soups, or if large, as a base for various entries. Brovrn Bread Sift together one pint of corn meal and one pint of rye flour, or in place of the rye, use coarse wheat meal (Graham), or, one cup of white and one cup of rye flour, one 59 Brown Bread level teaspoon of salt and two level tea- spoons of soda, then mix with one pint of thick sour milk and one cup of molasses, and add a little water if not moist enough to pour easily. Half fill well-greased bak- ing powder cans, cover and steam three hours, longer will not harm them. To serve for luncheon, cut in thin slices and serve hot, or toasted slightly, or cold as sandwiches. I^uncKeon R.oUs, Sandvriches Remove the crusts from thin slices of bread, spread with soft butter and roll, fasten with a wood pin, or put them down with the edge underneath and lay a plate, or folded napkin, over to keep them in shape, or roll in waxed paper. Bread for sandwiches should be cut very thin, spread with plain or fiavored butter, and then with any paste or mixture which your taste or ingenuity can combine. The crust may be removed, or not, as occasion demands. The two slices are put together, pressing enough to make them adhere, and 60 Luncheon R.olls, Sand-wiches if large cut them into oblongs, diamonds, triangles, or as preferred. Or, cut the bread first into any fancy shape. Brown, white and entire wheat bread may be used. Mayonnaise, anchovy butter, sweet cream and plain or creamed butter, flavored with minced parsley, cheese, green peppers, chut- ney, horseradish, lobster, crab, shrimp, sar- dines, olives, watercress, nasturtiums, and any other condiments, are used to first cover the bread; the filling may be minced ginger and cumquats; or maraschino cher- ries and nuts; or any minced meat, fish or game, made into pastes with the dressing; or it may be minced salad vegetables, like lettuce, chives, parsley, celery, cucumbers, etc. BaKin^ Povrder Biscuit Sift together two cups of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt and three level teaspoons of a cream-of-tartar baking powder, then rub or cut in one rounded tablespoon of but- ter or half lard and half butter. Wet with about two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk into a soft dough. Knead until smooth, roll out 61 BaKinif Poivder Bisctxit two-thirds inch thick, cut with an inch-and- half cutter, (or even smaller is better) and bake in a hot oven. EoU even thinner, if to be used as crusts for fricassees, or creamed meats. Cheese Straivs or IVafers Chop one heaped tablespoon of butter into one cup of pastry flour, add one-fourth tea- spoon of salt, one cup of grated cheese, and make into stiff dough with ice water. KoU very thin, cut with a pastry jagger into strips one-fourth inch wide, and six inches long, bake, and serve, piled log-cabin-fash- ion, or tied in bundles, with salad. For Wafers, sprinkle grated cheese on any of the thin unsweetened wafers and brown slightly, adding paprika or mustard to the butter which is spread on the wafer first. These are more satisfactory than those made from pastry. Fried Corn Meal Musli Mix one tablespoon of flour and one tea- spoon of salt with one pint of corn meal 62 Fried Corn Meal Mush and make into a batter with one pint of cold milk. Then stir it gradually into one quart of boiling water over the fire, and after boiling briskly for five minutes, set it over boiling water and cook for half an hour. Turn into wet bread pans and when cold, cut into half-inch slices, dip in flour and fry brown in butter, or salt pork fat. Use baking powder cans for round shapes. Pastry- Chop two rounded tablespoons of lard and one-fourth teaspoon of salt into one heaped cup of pastry flour, and wet with ice water into stiff dough. Pound it out flat on floured board. Dot it with dabs of butter, flour lightly, roll up, turn half round and pat out again. Eepeat four times, using in all one-fourth cup of butter. Pat out thin and lay on a pan on ice, till chilled; then roll as desired for plates or small tarts, or to cover small moulds making shells for fanchonnettes, or to use with various fill- ings. 63 Puff Paste, for Patties, £tc. One solid cup of butter washed and pat- ted out into three long thin pieces, and laid on a napkin in a pan between two pans filled with broken ice. Crumble one piece of butter into two cups of pastry flour with one-half teaspoon of salt, then wet with ice water to a dough as soft as can be handled. Pat out into oblong shape : lay one strip of butter on middle, fold sides to the middle, then the ends, pat out again. Do the same with remaining piece of but- ter ; and after the last patting out, lay it in the ice pans for fifteen minutes. Then roll out lightly with quick strokes, until a large rectangle; fold sides and ends to the mid- dle as before, turn half way round, and pat until half-inch thick; then roll again. Do this four or five times, then lay on ice again and when cold, roll out thin, cut into rounds and cover with rings, for patties, fill the centres with soft bread and bake the pieces cut from the rings, by themselves. Bake in hot oven, remove bread, fill and replace the centre for tops. Volauvent. — Koll one-third inch thick, cut with a large oval cutter, lay on rim 64 Puff Paste, for Patties, £tc. three-fourths inch wide, fasten it with white of egg, and fill with bread. Out out from another portion a piece for the cover, a trifle larger than the first to al- low for shrinking, and bake by itself. Or, fit the paste over the bottom and sides of a deep pan, prick holes to prevent uneven rising, and bake on the pan set on another to keep it from the oven. When done, in- vert, fill and put on the cover. Ornament the cover with fancy strips along the edge, if you prefer, before baking. Li^ht CaRes Sponge Cake in one of its many forms as Angel, Sunshine, Lady Fingers, or Sponge Drops, is the most suitable cake to serve at a luncheon, as it usually accompanies ice cream of some kind ; and rich butter cakes are not needed. Beat the yolks of five eggs until thick, add one cup of fine granulated sugar and continue beating; add one tablespoon of lemon juice with the grated rind of half a lemon and a dash of salt. Beat the whites 65 U^ht CaRes stiff but not too dry, fold half of them into the yolks, sift over half a cup of flour, give one or two turns with the spoon, then add the remainder of whites, and another half cup Of flour. Mix as lightly as possible, turn into greased pans lined with paper, and bake about forty minutes in moderate oven. Or bake in two shallow pans and cut into small shapes and cover with soft frost- ing. An^el CaRe Mix one cup of flne granulated sugar, one-eighth teaspoon of salt, one scant cup of flour and sift four times. Fill one cup with egg whites and beat them until very stiff, sift over them one level teaspoon of cream-of-tartar, and add one teaspoon of pure vanilla, or a few drops of almond. Sift the flour mixture over the whites, fold it in gently, and fill an ungreased pan (one with funnel preferred) and bake in moder- ate oven, about forty minutes. Invert the pan and when cool, remove the pan and frost the cake. 66 Boiled Frosting; Boil one cup of fine granulated sugar w'ith one-third cup of hot water, without stirring, until the syrup taken up on a skewer will thread. Beat one egg-white stiff, add one-fourth teaspoon of cream-of- tartar, and pour the boiling syrup over the egg in a fine stream, beating at same time, and continue beating until it thickens, and is smooth, then spread on the cakes while still warm. Pound CaKe This is one of the simplest foundations for the richer cakes and if you prefer to include those in your menu, follow this for- mula and bake it in a variety of fancy- shaped tins. Oream one cup of butter '(solid)' with one-and-three-quarter cups of fine granu- lated sugar, add one-half teaspoon of mace and five unbeaten eggs, one at a time, and two cups of pastry flour. Beat barely enough to mix, for the cake should not be light and coarse-grained, but of a fine, soft texture, not heavy, but simply soft and rich. 67 Pound CaRe Bake in shallow pans, and cut into fancy shapes, or bake in small pans and frost with different colors if you like. Eclairs Melt one-fourth cup of butter in one cup of boiling water in a small sauce pan; add one-fourth teaspoon of salt and when boil- ing, add quickly one cup of pastry flour; stir constantly until smooth and the dough may be taken up in one mass. Cool, beat in four eggs, one at a time, force the mixture through a small tube in a pastry bag, making tiny pencil-like strips, about five inches long, on a buttered pan, and some distance apart. Bake until light and dry. Frost with soft frosting; or make them larger and fill with whipped sweetened cream, and frost only the top. Chocolate Mix one level tablespoon of arrowroot, or cornstarch, two tablespoons of sugar, a dash of salt, and two squares of chocolate, or four tablespoons of rich cocoa, and pour 68 Chocolate on gradually one cup of boiling water. Stir until it thickens, then turn it into the dou- ble boiler, with three cups of scalded milk and let it cook fifteen minutes. Put one cup of whipped cream into a chocolate pitcher, turn in the chocolate and stir with a twirler, or egg beater, until very foamy. Fill cups two-thirds full, put a tablespoon of thick whipped cream on top, and serve with a lump of sugar in the saucer. Chocolate for luncheon usually accompa- aies the entire meal, or it may be served as a course in place of sherbet. It is most suitable when the menu is light. BlacK Coffee Allow one-fourth cup of freshly ground coffee for one cup of water. Put the powdered coffee into a filtering pot, pour the boiling water through twice, then bring the pot forward where it will boil up once before serving. Or, mix the ground coffee with a portion of egg-white (one egg to one cup of grounds) add cold water and let it boil five minutes 69 BlacK Coffee after it reaches the boiling point. Pour in one-fourth cup of cold water, let it stand two minutes, then serve. Coffee may be served in the parlor after the luncheon if preferred. Lemonade Shave off the yellow peel from one lem- on, and press out the juice from three, add one quart of boiling syrup, (one cup of sugar and one quart of water). Cool and strain and add ice when serving. Fruit Puncli Prepare one quart of mixed summer fruits, strawberries, raspberries, pineap- ples, cherries, substituting peaches and grapes in their season for those which come earlier. Add the juice of three lemons and three oranges and mash them well. Pour over them a hot syrup of one cup of sugar boiled five minutes with two cups of water. Add some shavings of lemon or orange peel. When cold and ready to serve strain it and add one quart of Apollinaris 70 Fruit PuncH water. Add if you wish one pint of tea, made as usual, when you add the boiling syrup. Add more sugar if needed. Serve in frappe cups, during the luncheon. Iced tea is also served at luncheons. "White Sauce or Bli^nc Mix one-half level teaspoon of salt and one-eighth teaspoon of pepper with one level tablespoon of cornstarch, or arrowroot; or with one rounded tablespoon of flour, and stir them into one rounded tablespoon of butter, after melting it in a smooth sauce pan. Cook until it bubbles, stirring well. Add one cup of hot milk, or thin cream, or water, or white stock, one-third of it at a time, and stir well until each portion has thickened. To make a richer sauce add the yolks of one or two eggs as you take it from the fire, heating the sauce only enoilgh to become well blended. Or, saut6 the minced vegetables in the hot butter before adding the starch, to give finer flavor. By adding celery salt, paprika, lemon juice, onion juice, parsley, capers, bay leaf, 71 Wliite Sauce or Blanc curry powder, cooked celery, onions, car- rots, green or red sweet peppers, oysters, lobsters, etc., you may have all the vari- eties of white sauce. Thick Sauce for Croquettes. — Double the flour and butter, but scant the butter slightly when using thick cream. To make the smooth, velvety, French white sauce, or veloute, use rich veal or chicken stock, and keep the sauce over boiling water two hours; skimming off the liquid butter as it rises, and flavor with meat or vegetable essence, or glaza Broivn Sauce or R.oux Use the same proportions as in white sauce, one tablespoon each of butter and flour, for one cup of hot water or brown stock, but let the flour cook in the butter until well browned. To make it for roast meat, use the fat or dripping from the meat instead of butter. Add mushrooms, currant jelly, chives, pickles, wine, catsups, etc., to make the different varieties. To make Espagnole, the richest sauce, use stock 72 BroMrn Sauce or R.oux made from lean beef and veal browned to caramel in hot butter with onions, until well glazed, then covered with thin stock and reduced by long simmering to one- half the amount. After making the roux with this rich stock, let it cook two hours slowly, skim off the fat as it rises and flavor as desired. Glaise is simply Consomme reduced by long boiling to one-fourth the amount, one quart reduced to one cup. Tomato Sauce Add one-half cup of highly seasoned strained tomatoes to one-half cup of milk, or cream, or white stock in making whito sauce. Or use it alone, or with half the amount or equal amount of brown stock, for a darker sauce. 73 CooKed Dressing Cream four tablespoons of butter, add two level teaspoons of salt, one level tea- spoon of mustard, one-half teaspoon of pa- prika. Heat four tablespoons each of chicken or veal stock and tarragon or plain vinegar. Beat four egg-yolks slightly, in a sauce pan, add slowly the hot vinegar and stir as it cooks over hot water. When thick remove from the fire, and add the butter gradually. This will keep some time and when ready to use, take a fourth, or half of it, and add to it an equal bulk of whipped cream, if for a vegetable salad; twice the bulk if for a fruit salad; and one-half the bulk if for chicken or lobster. Add sugar to taste when using it for a fruit salad, and omit the mustard at first. White of egg beaten stiff may be used if you have no cream, and sometimes you may like to beat in slowly one-half cup of oil, as for a mayon- naise. IVhipped Cream Dressing To one cup of thick cream whipped stiff, add three tablespoons of lemon juice and 74 IVhipped Cream Dressing salt and pepper to taste. When used, for oysters add three tablespoons of grated horseradish; for fish add one-half cup of grated cucumber, soaked in vinegar. Add also mustard or a few drops of Tabasco where high seasoning is needed, and minced chives, parsley, or watercress, or sweet green or red pepper, as desired. French Dressinif Make it fresh at the table, or just before serving, either by mixing all together in a small cup, or by dressing the salad with the four materials separately. The formula is only a guide to proportions, for they will vary with the nature of the salad dressed, and individual taste. Use lemon instead of vinegar, whenever possible. Tarragon and claret vinegars are more agreeable to many than the very acid, plain cider vinegar. French dressing is suitable for nearly all salads and may be used to season those served with mayonnaise. Proportions: One-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of freshly ground pep- 75 French Dressing per, three tablespoons of olive oil, and one tablespoon of vinegar, or lemon juica Add when desired a dash of cayenne, or paprika, or a few grains of nutmeg or cinnamon, (these for fruit salads), and when onion is desired use a few drops of juice, or rub a cut onion or a clove of garlic round the bowl, or soak minced onion in the vinegar and strain it out. Mustard is used with some salads. Mix the condiments with the oil, then add the acid and stir until it be- comes slightly thick. Or, sprinkle the salad with the dry materials, add oil and toss about, then add acid last. Mayonnaise Dressings Mix in a small cup, one-half teaspoon each of salt and mustard, (omit mustard and use one teaspoon of pow'dered sugar if for fruit salads), a dash of cayenne and one tablespoon each of lemon juice and vinegar, and stir until well mixed. In a small sauce pan standing in a larger pan of broken ice, put the yolk of one fresh cold egg, and stir (not beat) with a wooden spoon until 76 Mayonnaise Dressing smooth and beginning to thicken, draw it toward the left and tilt the pan down while you pour in one teaspoon of olive oil, which stays near the lower edge, and then as you continue stirring take up a little of the oil at each stroke. When all mixed in and perfectly blended pour in more, and con- tinue in this way until half a cup is used, adding between times occasionally a tea- spoon of the acid mixture, and then add oil in larger portions, increasing as the dressing increases in bulk. Continue until one cup is used, or more if you please, for, with this foundation, you may go on using a quart if need be, adding more seasoning and acid in proportion. Should the dress- ing separate, try stirring in a little thick cream, or white of egg, and if all these fail, begin in another bowl with a new yolk and add this curdled mixture gradually. When ready to use, take out a portion and blend it with an equal amount of thick cream, whipped, or egg-white beaten stiff, until of the desired consistency. It may be colored with color pastes, or lobster coral, or spin- ach, etc. Sauce Tartare is made by 77 Mayonnaise Dressing adding a mixture of finely minced green, or acid condiments, like capers, pickles, olives, parsley, chives, etc., to the mayonnaise. Jellied Mayonnaise. — Add one cup of chicken Aspic Jelly made by dissolving one- half box of softened gelatin in one cup of boiling chicken stock, and stirring it as it begins to jelly, into one pint of mayonnaise and beating thoroughly. 78 Appetizers of Vegetables, FisK, Meat, Eggs, Etc. 79 APPETIZERS THE appetizers are usually placed on the luncheon table, in fancy, or appropriate dishes, and passed with their respective courses. Celery should be clean, cold and crisp, and if stringy, scrape it well before serv- ing. It is pretty when curled, but not so easily eaten. If the stalks have fresh, perfect tips, stand them up in a suitable glass, if not, then lay them in a low glass dish or tray. Radishes Wash, trim off the rootlet, and all but one inch of the stem. Trim the red skin down into petals if you like. Serve on ice in a glass dish, or with the olives if your service is limited. 81 Olives and Pimolas The latter are preferred now generally, and their brilliant centres make an effective garnish, or blend well with the curled cel- ery, but not with radishes. Salted Nuts Almonds, peanuts, filberts, pecans, wal- nuts, and boiled or roasted chestnuts may be served at luncheons, either plain or salted. To salt them simply brown them slightly in the oven and sprinkle with salt while hot, or roll first in melted butter or olive oil and brown in the oven. Bonbons These should be selected to harmonize with the dominant color of the luncheon, and should be fresh. They may be served in tiny cases at each cover, or all together. Chocolates, fruits glac6, French candied fruits, butter cups, and peppermints are the favorites. They are served at the close of the meal. Other appetizers which are served from 82 Bonbons the side, or on each service plate before the guests come in, are as follows: Janua,ry Oyster CocKtail Oysters for this form of serving should be the smallest possible to procure, provided they are of good flavor; but if only large ones are feasible, cut them into small por- tions, or use only the round soft parts, re- serving the tough gills for some other pur- pose. Keep them on ice until ready to serve. The dressing for the cocktail should be made of a mixture of several of the cat- sups and hot fiery sauces, and the commonly liked condiment, horseradish, blended with lemon juice, or the pulp of some other acid fruit like tomato or grape fruit. TKe pro- portion may be varied to one's liking for these pungent compounds; probably each housekeeper will have her own favorite for- mula, but for those who have none the fol- lowing may be tried. Mix two tablespoons of horseradish, two tablespoons of lemon juice, one tablespoon of tomato catsup, one-fourth teaspoon of salt 83 Oyster CocKtail and one-fourth teaspoon of Tabasco sauce. This will be sufficient for six glasses. Put the oysters in tall, shallow glasses, allow- ing six if small, and four if large, to each person. Add the proportion of the mixture and serve very cold. It is better to chill the oysters and the cocktail separately, for if the oysters stand long in the mixture they become tough. Little NecK Claxns February Allow six small clams for each person and remove them from the shells just be- fore serving. Have some small tomatoes peeled and hollowed out and put the clams in them. Dress with the following mix- ture: One-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of paprika, three drops of Tabasco sauce, one teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one tablespoon of olive oil, two tablespoons of vinegar and one teaspoon each of minced chives and parsley. Mix it in a small bowl with a piece of ice and stir it until thick and well blended, then remove the ice and apportion it to each tomato. 84 March Anchovy Canapes Prepare thin slices of bread, cut in oval, round or oblong shape, one for each per- son and toast them a delicate brown, then spread with butter and lay a whole anchovy on each, curling it round in the centre, or across diagonally. Put a pimola in the cen- tre, or cut it in halves and lay one each side of the anchovy. Fill the spaces with minced whites and sifted yolks of two hard boiled eggs, allowing two for six canapes. The design may be as varied as your taste sug- gests, and if more green is desired use minced capers or parsley. April Oysters in the Half Shell Blue Points are the favorite for this ap- petizer, partly on account of their small size, and partly for their delicious and del- icate flavor. Have them opened at the mar- ket, as near the hour for luncheon as pos- sible, but if this be impracticable, keep them in the shell after opening and surround with ice. With an oyster opener and a careful observation of the method in the hands of an expert, and a little practice, one may be able to strike just the place near the hard 85 Oysters in the Half Shell connecting muscle, which admits the point of the knife. Hold the oyster with the hol- low shell down and the pointed end toward you, and find this point near the upper right-hand corner. By observing the posi- tion of the dark spot in the inside of the shell you will open the next more easily. Out the oyster from the shell, and turn it over in the hollow shell, and arrange these in a plate of broken ice. From four to six is the allowance for each person. Serve a slice or point of lemon in the centre. See that the shells are well cleaned before open- ing or serving. Bars of brown bread slightly toasted may accompany the oysters, if wafers or crack- ers are not desired. Or serve the cocktail mixture in a tiny glass in the centre, then those who like the sauce may dip their oysters into it. (See illustration on opposite page.) Caviare Canapes May Suat^ round slices of bread, one-third inch thick, in hot butter, until a delicate 86 Caviare Canapes golden brown. Drain and cool. Chop suf- ficient watercress very fine to make two ta- blespoons, and then mix it well into the same amount of creamed butter; add salt and paprika to taste, and spread it on the toasted bread. Cover with a layer of ca- viare, sprinkle lemon juice over it and serve on a small plate lined with a paper doily. June Crab Canapes Cut slices of fresh bread one-half inch thick and spread with anchovy paste, then sprinkle crab meat over the surface, with a few bits of minced green pepper. Press it slightly into the butter and serve as above. July Clam Canapes Remove the soft parts from hot boiled clams and chop them fine. Add the yolk of one raw egg beaten slightly, and suffi- cient soft white bread crumbs to make a smooth paste. Season with lemon juice, black pepper and melted butter. Spread it on half-inch slices of brown bread and staad in the oven until hot, then serve at once. 87 Lobster Canapes August Dry and pound fine the coral from two large lobsters and mix with it the green fat until a smooth paste. Season it with lemon juice and paprika and salt if needed. Spread it on thin, unsweetened wafers of any shape desired, and serve on a doily. The yolks of hard boiled eggs may be added if the sup- ply of lobster fat is scanty. Sardine Canapes September Remove the skin and bones from the sar- dines and mash them to a paste. Season with lemon juice and spread it on round of brown bread. Lay a ring of the white of hard boiled egg in the centre and fill the space with minced olives, and surround the ring with the sifted yolk of the egg. Ramr Os^Sters October Select large oysters of the best quality and after looking over carefully, divide them into small portions and surround the dish with broken ice until ready to serve. But do not do this any earlier than neces- 88 R.a-«r Oysters sary. Arrange a ramekin dish in a bed of broken ice, for each cover, and prepare a sauce by mixing one tablespoon of lemon juice, one tablespoon of pure grated horse- radish and a dash of paprika, with one cup of whipped cream, measured after whip- ping. When ready to serve, put a portion of oysters in each ramekin and cover with two teaspoons of the whipped cream sauce. Serve with oyster crackers. Novemher Clieese Canapes Make bread boxes by cutting out the centre from round or square slices of bread one inch thick. Beat the white of one egg light and mix it into one cup of finely crumbled or grated cheese, season with paprika and a dash of salt and fill the boxes, heaping; arrange on a pan and bake about ten minutes in a hot oven and serve at once on a napkin. 89 ChicRen Liver Croustades December Cut rounds of bread one inch thick, hol- low them in the centre and saut6 them in hot butter. Have ready the livers of two fowls, boiled and mashed through a puree sieve; add one cup of hot, thick cream and yolk of two eggs, slightly beaten. Cook over hot water until the egg thickens and then season with salt, paprika and lemon juice, and fill the croustades with the mix- ture. Sprinkle minced parsley over the top and serve at once. 90 Appetizers of Fruit 91 January Grape Fruit, Plain Wipe the fruit and cut it in halves, cross- wise. If the halves do not stand evenly cut off from the bottom. Run a knife around each carpel of pulp and loosen it from the tough membrane, then cut out the pithy centre with as much of the membrane as will come out easily. As many persons pre- fer the fruit without sugar, do not sweeten all of them before serving, but pass pow- dered sugar to those who desire. If pre- ferred, remove the pulp and serve it in small cups on a paper doily laid on a pretty plate. There is more comfort in eating the pulp from the glass than from the grape fruit shell. Have the fruit well chilled be- fore serving. February Oranffes Divide the oranges through the middle and serve plain, with an orange spoon, and sugar for those who desire. Or, pare off the skin close to the pulp and serve on a fork, the pulp to be eaten off from the edge, leav- ing the pithy centre on the fork. 93 Grape Fruit March For an elaborate luncheon, a mixture of other fruits with that of the grape fruit is desirable. Remove the pulp from each half, allowing one large grape fruit for four per- sons. Mix with it the pulp of two oranges, and one tangerine cut in bits, one red ba- nana cut in dice, one-half cup of maraschino cherries cut in halves, four brandied figs cut in bits, and one cup of white grapes skimmed, halved and seeded. Add pow- dered sugar to taste and two tablespoons of syrup from the cherries (with one table- spoon of rum, if desired). Chill the mix- ture and serve in frappe glasses or lemon- ade cups, on a lace doily arranged on the glass plate, with an orange spoon. Other fruits, like pineapple and straw- berries, cut in bits, may be used in their season. Strawberries 'April Select the largest and freshest berries, with stems, and arrange them on individual dishes with a mound of powdered sugar in the centre; provide a strawberry fork, if convenient, but fingers may be used. X^ee illustration on opposite page.) 94 May Pineapples Cut the fruit in thin slices, pare, cut into bits, discarding the core, sweeten with pow- ' dered sugar and keep on ice until needed; then serve in baskets made of lemon skins, trimmed on the bottom so they will stand upright, and notched round the edge if you care to take the time. June Cherries Einse and drain dry, chill and serve on individual plates, on a bed of leaves, if pos- sible. They are eaten without sugar. Apri- cots are also seasonable. July Currants or Raspberries Currants as a first course for luncheon should be served on the stem and carefully selected, then rolled in powdered sugar and chilled. Or if this be impracticable, mash and strain the currants and mix the juice, after sweetening to taste, with fresh rasp- berries, or diced bananas, or bits of fresh apricots, and serve in frappe glasses. Have them all very cold. 95 Salpicon of Summer Fruits This is a better word than cocktaAl for this combination. It may be made of two or more fruits in any proportions desired, and served in fruit shells, or glass cups. Lemon juice will blend with almost any mixture and nearly all fruits that are in season together will harmonize. Blackber- ries and currants are better mashed and strained, using the juice only. These mixtures will be suitable during any of the summer months, and may be used also in the winter, made from canned fruits, or such winter fruits as may be pro- cured. Melons and Canteloups August Watermelon is more frequently served at the close of a meal, but there is no reason for not serving it at the beginning if de- sired. On a hot August day it is very ac- ceptable. It should be thoroughly chilled and just before serving scoop out cone- shaped portions with a tablespoon, giving it a twist through the red pulp until a perfect cone is secured. Serve two on each plate and pass salt and pepper to those who de- 96 Melons and Canteloups sire. A mixture of one-half cup of pow- dered sugar, one-half teaspoon each of pure cinnamon and salt, is worth trying. Canteloups are as popular for summer luncheons as grape fruit in its season. Wash the outside and cut them in halves, remove the seeds and stringy portion, and set them on ice until well chilled, but on no account put ice into them, as it draws out the juice and flavor. Keep them chilled be- fore dividing, if possible. If very large, one-half or a less portion, will be sufficient, but frequently the two halves will be none too much. Serve powdered sugar and salt With the melon. 'September Peaches or Plums These are served pared, halved and stoned, with a mound of powdered sugar at the side. Or if the skins be very thin, simply cut them in halves and the pulp may be eaten from the skins with a spoon. Sometimes the cavities are filled with sugar and lemon juice, or the pulp of some sweet soft plums, but generally the flavor of the peach is preferred by itself. 97 Grapes, Natives October Select nice shapely bunches and have them carefully washed and drained; then serve on a small plate, and tie the stem with a bow of ribbon if you like such deco- rations. Grapes, Malaga 'November Malaga grapes may be served in small bunches, the same as our native varieties, or they may form part of any salpicon of fruit. If so they should be skinned, halved and seeded. This is not difficult to do if you have a sharp pointed knife and once learn the knack. BaKed Fruit December Apples, quinces, or bananas may be baked and served hot, and, offer a very appe- tizing course for a luncheon in cold weather when something hot, or at least warm, is more to be desired than to begin the meal with cold fruit. Apples and quinces should be wiped, cored and the cavities filled with sugar, put 98 BaKed Fruit into a granite pan and half filled witK water; basted frequently and cooked until tender. Then dot with bits of butter and serve hot. Bhubarh.-!— Cut without peeling, add sugar, one cup to one pint of fruit. Let it stand several hours, then bake until soft and rich in color. Add no water. 99 Soups, Made witH Stock 101 January Consomme Two pounds of knuckle of veal, four pounds of beef from the lower part of the round and a four-pound fowl, one pint of mixed onion, celery, carrot and turnip, one tablespoonful of mixed sweet herbs, tied in a bag, one teaspoon of mixed whole spice and one tablespoon of salt. Out the lean off from the bone and divide into inch pieces; cut the veal in small por- tions and leave the fowl whole, but cleaned as for roasting. Brown the onions in hot dripping, and then brown half of the beef; put all bones, beef, veal and fried onions into the soup ket- tle, cover with four quarts of cold water, rinse off the glaze from the frying pan, add that, lay the fowl on top, and let the whole simmer three hours. Remove the fowl when tender, and use it for other purposes. Then add the cut vegetables, herbs and spices, and simmer until the meat is in shreds. Strain, and when cold remove the fat, clear the stock with the white of one egg for each quart of stock. Add the egg unbeaten to the cold stock, and add more seasoning if needed. Stir as it heats, and when it has 103 Consomme boiled two minutes, or the egg is thick, stand on back of the range until it settles ; add one-half cup of cold water to hasten the settling. Then strain it through fine cloth laid over wire strainer, and heat again just before serving. Serve it plain, or with any, one, or combination of several finely divided, cooked vegetables, or with bits of vermicelli or macaroni. ChlcKen Gumbo February The basis of a gumbo is okra, either fresh or canned, which, on account of its muci- laginous character, gives body to the soup. Chicken, or oysters, crabs, shrimps, veal, or any portions of previously cooked poultry or game may be used, with a little ham or bacon to give flavor. And the broth is still further flavored with tomatoes, sweet corn and onions, and seasoned with red or green pepper pods, salt and sometimes with sweet herbs. Fil^e powder made from young sassafras leaves, dried, is often used to give more smoothness. It ig a dish capable of many variations ilO-t ChicRen Gumbo providing the essentials are not lacking. A formula which will serve simply as a sug- gestion is all that is necessary. Brown the meat of a four-pound fowl, after disjointing, in some hot lard with the ham or bacon. Eemove it and add one quart of okra pods sliced, and one large onion and one sweet green pepper, or a bit of red pepper pod. Pour on boiling water to cover, add the tomatoes, skinned, and the other seasonings, and let the whole simmer for two hours, or until the meat is tender. When corn or oys- ters are used add those fifteen minutes be- fore serving. March Bouillon Four pounds from the top of the round, or any lean portion of beef, cut fine and cover with three quarts of cold water. Bring it to a boil slowly and simmer until tender, about four hours. Add a seasoning of one onion, one tablespoon of mixed cloves and pepper corns, and a bit of bay leaf, after two hours. When done, strain, cool, remove fat and clear as for Consomme, Serve in cups. (See illustration facing page 102.)] 105 Veal Soup Cook a knuckle of veal as directed for Bouillon, omitting the clove and pepper corns, and using celery seed or stalks, and white pepper for seasoning. After straining it add one-half the amount of thin cream and heat again, and just before serving stir in the yolks of two eggs, removing it from the fire at once, that the egg may not curdle. Serve in cups with whipped cream on top. Yary it by adding a few, bits of parboiled sweetbread to each cup. BisQue of Crab, or Lobster April Wash the shells, remove the meat, cover the shells with cold water, add one onion and sprig of parsley and boil half an hour, or until reduced to one pint. Strain, and add to the liquor one pint of hot milk ; boil again and thicken with one-half cup of fine white bread crumbs. Add one cup of the finely minced crab, or lobster, etc., and sea- son with salt and cayenne. Bisque of Fish. — Use any kind of white blooded fish for the solid portion, and a cod's or haddock's head and bones for the stock, and proceed as above. 106 BisQue of Crab, or Lobster Bisque of Canned Salmon, — Drain off the oil, discard skin and bones and proceed as for crab meat, using only milk for stock. Bisque of Clams. — Chop the raw clams fine, cook in double boiler one hour, add white sauce, season and "strain before serv- ing. Or, use steamed clams; chop only the hard parts and cook in hot milk half an hour, then strain; add the soft parts, and thicken with powdered cracker and butter, and season with salt, pepper and a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce. May Tomato Soup, with StocK Take equal parts of strained stewed tomato and any kind of soup stock; heat, flavor with salt, green pepper, bay leaf and a teaspoon of whole spice tied in a bag and removed after a few minutes, unless the stock used has been very highly seasoned. Blend with one tablespoon of cornstarch cooked in one tablespoon of butter and stirred into the boiling soup. Cook five min- utes and strain again before serving. Pass croutons or browned wafers with the soup. 107 Fruit SoupSf Cold 'June Cook one quart of any of the summer fruits — cherries, currants, raspberries, or gooseberries (alone or in any combination desired, using, of course, less of the sour varieties than of the others) — in one quart of water until soft. Mash and strain through flue sieve. Put the juice on to boil again and thicken with one tablespoon of corn- starch wet in cold water. Boil five minutes and add lemon juice and sugar to taste. Keep on ice and serve very cold. Iced Bouillon July Prepare the bouillon as directed on page 105, and after straining it pack it for one hour in ice and salt; or if this is not desirable serve it in cups one-third filled with shaved ice. Clam Cliovrder August Prepare the clams by steaming and remov- ing shells, shirt and black ends and rinse well. Drain off the water from the sediment. Fry three slices of fat salt pork, cut in bits, 108 Clam Choivder with' two small onions, sliced. Strain out the scraps, and add to the fat the clam water, diluted one-half with boiling water ; add also one quart of thinly sliced scalded potatoes. Cook until tender; add the clams and one pint of thick white sauce made with one pint of milk and two tablespoons each of butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper and serve with wafers. Fish Chowder. — Boil the head, skin and bones ; strain, and proceed as above, adding the fish with the potatoes. September Oyster Bisque Parboil one pint of oysters; drain; remove the soft portions and reserve to use in the soup later. Chop the hard parts and rub through a sieve, add to the liquor and heat again ; add one pint of thin white sauce, and when the two are well blended add salt, paprika, mushroom catsup, or Tabasco to taste. Just before serving add the portions of oysters and serve in cups with dried (not browned) crotltons. 109 ChicRen and Celery Soup October Boil and mash one pint of sliced celery; rub through a sieve and add to it an equal amount of the water in which a chicken has been cooked. Add one cup of thick white sauce made with cream, and after boiling five minutes season with salt, white pepper and a dash of mace, and serve in cups with a bit of finely minced green pepper on the sur- face, or sift into it some of the white meat of chicken. Left-Over Soup November Eemove the skin and fat from the rem- nants of roasted or broiled meat, game or poultry, and cut off all the good meat in tiny portions. Put the bones in a kettle and cover with cold water; add other left-overs if you have not enough of any one kind. Let them simmer until the bones are clean, add- ing one onion and a few bits of celery root or tips, or of carrot, after the first hour. Strain and set aside to cool ; remove the fat and heat the stock to boiling point. Add caramel to color if needed and serve with a tiny poached timbale of the meat in each cup. (See Chicken Timbales.) 110 December Scotcln Broth Discard the fat from two pounds of shoul- der of mutton ; cut the lean meat in half-inch pieces; cover with cold water, two quarts, and let it come to the boiling point slowly. When the scum comes up white remove it, and then add one-half cup of pearl barley which has soaked for several hours and been steamed nearly soft in the double boiler. Add also one cup of grated carrot and one large onion browned in hot butter. Let it all cook slowly until the meat is tender and the bones clean. Remove the bones and add salt and pepper and a little flour thickening. Serve without straining and add a sprink- ling of minced parsley to each cup. Ill Cream Soups 113 CREAM SOUPS, BISQUES, ETC. SELECT from the various vegetables, delicate meats, white and shell fish and some varieties of nuts, such as are in season, using occasionally some of the canned products, and thus have a different soup every month. They would naturally follow after this order, although some of them are suitable at any time. January — Dried Beans, Peas, Lentils, Corn Meal, Chestnuts, Peanuts, English Walnuts. February — Hulled Corn, Canned Limas and Corn, Potato, Canned Peas. March — Tomato (canned) with stock. Lettuce, Spinach, Cucumber. April — Lobster, Canned Artichokes, Sweetbreads, Canned Corn, Watercress. May — Onions, Asparagus, White Fish, New Beets, Sorrel. 115 Cream Soups, BisQues, Ctc. June — Green Peas, Summer Carrots, Crabs, Fresh Salmon. July — String Beans, Summer Squash, Lobster. August — 01am, Corn on Cob, Fish, Shelled Beans. September — Cauliflower, Mushroom, Fresh Tomato, Fresh Succotash. October — Mushroom, Celery, Oyster. November — Chestnut, [Winter Carrot, Turnip. December — Salsify, Canned Salmon, Green Pepper, Cheese. To avoid repetition similar recipes are grouped instead of being arranged by the months. For green vegetables, follow recipe for asparagus; for canned vegetables, follow potato, and for salad vegetables or greens, follow spinach. lie Cream of Red Beans, £tc. Soak one cup of dried beans, peas, op Jentils over night, drain, add cold water and boil until soft; press all through a puree sieve, dilute with hot milk until like thin cream, and for one quart of the soup blend with one cup of white sauce. Season with salt, pepper and mustard if liked, and serve with thin slices of lemon or hard boiled eggs. Cream of Chestnuts, £tc« Shell and blanch the chestnuts; chop the walnuts and peanuts and allow one cup of either to one quart of soup. Cook the nuts in one pint of water until nearly done ; then add one pint of chicken or thin stock and one tablespoon each of chopped onion, cel- ery and parsley, and cook until tender. Rub all through a sieve; blend with one cup of white sauce, and season with salt, pepper and a dash of nutmeg or lemon juice. Cream of Aspara^usi £tc« Shell or scrape as needed ; wash, put over in cold water and cook until soft, letting most of the water boil away. Mash, rub iir Cream of Asparagus, Ctc. through sieve, dilute with hot milk and blend with one cup of white sauce to each pint of the soup. Season with salt and pep- per and a little sugar to the peas and beans, a teaspoon of lemon juice to the carrots and beets, and a speck of mace to the asparagus. Before mashing reserve some of the tips to serve with the asparagus, half a cup of whole peas for that variety, and the same amount of the orange part of the carrot to press through a ricer into the tureen. Make either of them richer by adding eggs, or part chicken stock, or thin cream, just before removing from the fire. For sweet corn, boil the scraped cobs in cold water to cover half an hour. Strain, add the pulp, cook five minutes and blend with white sauce as above. Cream of Potato, Ctc. Discard the water from the boiled pota- toes, and from the canned peas and arti- chokes. Chop the corn unless it has been first grated. Cook a stalk of celery, or an onion, or a bit of green pepper with the potato to give extra flavor. Mash and rub 118 Cream of Potato, Etc* through a sieve, dilute with hot milk till like thin cream. Boil again and blend with one cup of white sauce to each pint of pulp or soup. Add salt and pepper to each kind, and a little sugar to the peas, corn and suc- cotash. Add slivers of fresh celery, or green pepper to the potato when in the tureen, and of crisp fried bacon to the corn, and fried or toasted croutons to the peas. Tomato BisQue To one pint of hot, highly seasoned, strained tomato, made less acid by a bit of soda, add one pint of white sauce (made with part milk and part oyster liquor, or chicken stock, if convenient), using one tablespoon of cornstarch instead of two of flour, and adding an extra tablespoon of butter in small portions after blending the two. Season with salt, cayenne and a dash of mace. Cream of Spinach* £tc. Pick over, trim or pare, wash, cut small if needed, put on in cold water and boil until soft, drain, chop fine or mash through sieve, 119 Cream of Spinacli* Etc. add boiled vegetable water, and to each pint of pulp and water add one pint of white sauce. Season with salt and pepper, grated lemon rind or juice, or a dash of nutmeg, iand if desired richer add just before taking up, the yolk of one, or one whole egg, beaten with one cup of hot thin cream ; or add one cup of whipped cream after it is in the tureen or cups. These vegetables, having less thickenirig material (or starch) than potatoes, peas and beans, need a larger proportion of white sauce. Cream of Onions Scald one pint of sliced Bermuda onions, or the large Spanish kind ; drain and cook in one rounded tablespoon of butter in a stew pan, stirring often, for ten minutes. Add one cup of water or white stock, and one of tomato juice, or thin pulp, and simmer until done. Eub through puree sieve, and add one pint of hot white sauce. Season with salt and black pepper, and after filling the cups or plates add a teaspoon of sifted egg yolk and a bit of minced parsley. 120 Cream of Cauliflower Trim, soak top down, boil twenty minutes, drain and discard the water, cut off the tip of each floweret, put remainder through a sieve and stir it into one quart of hot milk in double boiler, thickened with one tablespoon each of butter and flour creamed together. Add butter, salt and pepper and a little lemon juice, or omit lemon if cheese is used. Add tips, sprinkled or not, as you prefer, with grated cheese. Creatn of Mushrooms Wash or wipe fresh mushrooms, cut fine, and sautd in two tablespoons of hot butter over a slow fire ilntil the juice flows, adding cream gradually as the butter is absorbed; cook ten minutes, then add one quart of hot milk and simmer half an hour. Press through a sieve, heat again and thicken with a tablespoon of butter Tolled in one of flour or cornstarch. Season with salt and pep- per, and serve with croutons. The stems may be used for the soup and sifted, and the peeled sautM caps served in the tureen if preferred. 121 Cream of Salsify Scrape a bunch of salsify, keeping the roots in cold water, slice thin and cook in water to cover ; add one tablespoon of minced onion, one of celery and a bit of bay leaf; simmer until tender. Remove the bay leaf and add three cups of milk, and when it boils again thicken with one tablespoon of butter rolled in two tablespoons of flour; cook five to eight minutes longer and serve without straining. Serve with it a sliver of broiled salt codfish. 132 FisH 123 January Halibut Timbales Scrape off the pulp from a slice of raw halibut, or run it through a chopper and press it through a puree sieve. To one cup of the pulp add one-half teaspoon of salt, a dash of cayenne and a few drops of onion juice; then beat in gradually the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs and one cup of thick whipped cream. Fill buttered timbale moulds, decorating them around the bottom and sides first, if you like, with bits of truf- fle, olive or lobster coral ) ; place them in pan of hot water with a strainer between ; cover with buttered paper and bake fifteen min- utes. Turn out and serve with Hollandaise sauce or with cream sauce flavored with lemon and minced parsley. Hollandaise Sauce. — Stir four egg yolks, one at a time into one-half cup of creamed butter; add one tablespoon of lemon juice, one-eighth teaspoon of salt and a dash of paprika. Add gradually one cup of hot water and cook over boiling water until thick, stirring constantly. 135 Scalloped Fisli in Shells February Out cold boiled fish in half-inch dice; al- low one cup of white sauce for one cup of fish; season the white sauce with salt, pep- per, onion juice and lemon juice, and make it richer, or not, as you please, with one hard egg yolk sifted in, or one raw yolk di- luted with one-fourth cup of hot cream. Combine the fish dice with the sauce and fill fancy fish-shaped dishes, or the real shells, or ramekins, with the mixture; cover with buttered crumbs and brown in a hot oven. Sprinkle minced parsley or diced green pepper over the top before serving, and lay a tiny point of lemon on the side. [(See illustration on opposite page.) Creamed Fish March Pare and remove a slice from the top of half of a shapely cucumber and scoop out the centre ; prepare one for each cover ; then scald them and fill them with hot creamed fish, prepared as for scalloped fish. Re- place the slice and serve hot. The portions removed may be utilized in making a sauce, or in salad. 126 3 O" o u B O Creamed Fish Pan Fish, Fried; Trout, Herring, Perch, Butter Fish, Scup, Etc. — Eemove head and tail, or not, as you please; clean, gash one inch apart down to the bone on each side; roll in fine white corn meal or flour, and brown quickly on each side in hot salt pork fat. Garnish with sliced lemon, parsley and Tartare sauce^ served in a pepper shell. April Broiled Shad Split down the back ; remove the head and tail, and wipe. Lay it on a greased broiler and cook under the gas, or over hot coals until well browned on the flesh side. Turn and cook the skin side until crisp. Being so fat it needs no butter before cooking, and salt is better added when done, as it dries the fibres if cooked in. Remove to a hot platter, first scraping off most of the crisp skin. Dress with salt, butter and lemon juice, and garnish with watercress or pars- ley. If served from the side divide it into shapely portions, those in the middle being the choicest. Mackerel, small blue fish, 137 Broiled Shad white fish, trout, and small cod may be cooked in the same way; but cod and white fish should be buttered before cooking. The backbone may be removed if desired. To Plank a Shad. — First secure a hickory or white oak plank, from one and one-half to two inches thick; tack the fish, skin side down, to the plank and cook before the open fire or in a hot oven about twenty minutes. Season and serve on the plank, or not, as preferred. Fillets of Flounder Mai/ Have the fish skinned and the flesh re- moved from either side, forming two long thin portions or fillets. Spread them with soft butter, salt, pepper, onion juice and lemon juice, or with creamed butter flavored to your taste, with either lobster coral, an- chovy paste, sardine paste, or a mixture of chopped acids, pickles, olives, capers, pars- ley, onions, chives, or cress, and salt and pepper. EoU the fish into tight rolls, and fasten with a wooden skewer ; then steam, or stew 128 Fillets of Flounder in fish stock, made from the bones, or bake about twenty minutes, basting with the stock, or egg and crumb and fry in deep fat. Eemove the skewers and serve on a platter with sauce, or on individual dishes and sauce at the side. Fillets of bass and other thin fish may be prepared in a similar way; thin slices of halibut and other large fish are called fillets, and may be rolled, or not, as you please. June Broiled Salmon Slice from three-fourths to an inch thick ; broil over a clear fii«, and when warmed through spread with butter ; turn and again add butter, and when done the flesh will leave the bone readily. Remove to a hot dish and peel off the skin ; remove the bone and press the four portions together to look like one slice. Spread with creamed butter, lemon juice, salt, pepper and minced parsley. Broiled Halibut (under gas). — Broil one side until heated through; then turn and spread the other side with a paste of creamed! 129 Broiled Salmon butter and flour; flavor with minced onion and tomato pulp. Cook till brown and serve with this crust side up. Boiled Salmon 'July Tie a three or four-pound piece of fresh salmon in a square of cheese cloth ; immerse in boiling water and simmer from thirty to forty minutes, or until the flesh will sepa- rate easily. Drain it, remove the skin, and the bone if possible, and rearrange like a whole piece on a hot platter; or serve it in individual portions, covered with thick white sauce and garnished with hard boiled eggs and lemon. Serve with it dressed cucumbers and iPrench potato balls, sprinkled with minced parsley. Or, serve it cold with Sauce Tartare, as a salad. Stuffed Smelts August Cook to a soft paste one cup of soft, white bread crumbs in one cup of milk and beat until smooth ; add one beaten egg, one tea- spoon of lemon juice, one teaspoon of minced parsley, one of olives, and one cup of the soft 130 c IS •T3 > o « o in c '% o C o O C IS 3 "is stuffed Smelts parts of oysters minced fine. Clean large smelts, cut open and stuff them, close with a few stitches, lay them in a pan lined with buttered paper, skewer the head and tail to- gether, and fill the space between with the stuffing; place them in a steamer and cook about fifteen minutes; remove carefully with a broad knife and serve on individual plates, with a sprig of cress. Bake them '" you pre- fer, sprinkling with buttered crumbs. September Fish Cutlets Chop fine one cup of cold boiled fish '(white varieties preferred), and mix with it one cup of thick white sauce. Season with minced parsley, onion juice, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and when cold shape into cutlets, or roll like croquettes; cover with crumbs, egg and crumbs, and fry in smoking hot deep fat. Drain and serve on a doily with a bit of parsley. October Canned Salmon Cut off a slice from the top of green sweet peppers ; remove the seeds and white fibres. 131 Canned Salmon Fill with a mixture of equal parts of minced salmon and white sauce and seasoned with salt, lemon juice and cayenne. Sprinkle buttered cracker crumbs over the top; place in a pan of hot water and bake twenty min- utes. Any other cooked fish freed from bones and skin may be used in the same way. Salt Fish Roll November Put a piece of nice thick salt fish in cold water, and as it soaks pick it apart into slivers. Pare twice the amount of potato and cut into pieces the size of English wal- nuts. Boil potatoes with fish on top until tender. Drain off the water quite dry, and add for each cup of fish one tablespoon of butter, a little pepper, and salt, if needed. Mash and beat well ; then beat in one beaten egg, or two whites. Drop it from a table- spoon into hot, deep fat, or into salt pork fat, making the cake fiat as it goes into the fat. Or spread the whole in a spider well greased, and when brown, turn over and toss out like an omelet or roll. Or, shape the mixture into cones or cylin- 132 Salt Fish Roll ders, crumb — egg — and — crumb, and fry like croquettes. Garnisb with pickles, cut like a fan. Canned Finnan Haddie may be used in the same way, simply heating the fish and mixing it with hot potato, or with thick white sauce. December Halibut Turbans Have a slice of halibut cut two inches thick. Remove the skin and cut the fish into small, round, drumlike portions, using an open tin baking powder box to guide the cutting. Lay them in a steamer and cook until firm, about twenty minutes. Serve with white sauce, flavored with parsley and lemon. Or, use a thin slice, remove the skin and bone and roll each of the four fillets, fasten with skewers and steam or bake in milk. Serve with white sauce, made with half tomato and half milk. (See illustrar tion facing page 130.) 133 SHell Fish, Frogs' Legs, Etc. 135 January Creamed Oysters Parboil one pint of prepared oysters, that is, oysters freed from bits of shell, and rinsed if gritty, drain, and use the liquor with enough cream to make one and one-half cups, in making a thick white sauce. Season with salt, pepper, mace or nutmeg, add the oysters, using only the soft parts if large, and serve them in fancy shells. Sprinkle fine minced green pepper over the top and serve very hot, each shell on a fancy doily laid on medium sized plates. February Fried Oysters Use large oysters, drain between cloth without pressure, roll in seasoned bread crumbs, then in beaten egg diluted with one tablespoon of milk, and again in the crumbs, and fry, a few at a time, in smoking hot, deep fat. Drain and serve three or four, ac- cording to the size, on each plate, with a small cup-shaped leaf of lettuce, in which place a tablespoon of Sauce Tartare. 137 Sauted Oysters March For a small company these may be pre- pared at the talfle on a chafing dish, using two if necessary. Lay the prepared oysters on a bed of cracker crumbs, rolled rather coarsely, and seasoned with salt and black pepper. This may be done just before luncheon is served, and the oysters brought in on a plate with the chafing dish outfit. Put enough butter into the blazer to more than cover the bottom, lay in the oysters and turn as soon as light brown, adding more butter as needed. Serve from the blazer and pass olives, or some home-made piccalilli, or other acid sauce. Shad R.oe April Lay the roe in a shallow baking pan and half cover with milk and bake in the oven about fifteen minutes, basting with the milk, two or three times. Let the milk cook away at the last and baste with the butter, and when slightly brown, remove, and pour over it a cream sauce made richer with the yolks of two eggs, and flavor with lemon juice, salt and cayenne; garnish with parsley. 138 Lobster Nevrburff Saut^ two cups of lobster dice, in two tablespoons of hot butter in the blazer, add a dash of cayenne, or one tablespoon of minced green pepper, letting it cook in the butter. Add also two tablespoons of sherry, if you approve. When hot stir in two beaten eggs diluted with two cups of hot thin cream and set the pan over hot water to prevent curdling. When well mixed serve at once. This is not a Newhurg without the sherry, but tarragon vinegar is a good substitute, and if used, you may call the dish Lobster k Ik Tarragona. June Froifs' Leifs Use the hind legs only, which should be skinned. Parboil them five minutes in salted lemon water, then drain and saut^ in hot butter and serve with white sauce flavored with lemon. Serve them in small long dishes or oval ramekins. July Soft Shell Crabs Be sure they are fresh, pull off the sand bags and the feathery substance on the sides. 139 Soft Sbell Crabs Binse and wipe dry. EoU in fine white corn meal, or in very fine sifted bread crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and saut6 in hot salt pork fat, or roll in meal or flour, then in beaten egg and then again in meal, and immerse in deep smoking hot fat. Drain and serve on a bed of watercress with Sauce Tartare. Clam Fritters August Chop the raw clams, after removing all objectionable parts, like the black ends, the dark string along the edge, and any bits of shell. Add them to a fritter batter, and fry by dropping a small portion into deep hot fat, or on a griddle in salt pork fat. Fritter Batter. — Beat yolk of one egg, add one-fourth cup of milk, one teaspoon of melted butter, a little salt, one teaspoon of vinegar and the chopped clams (one cup for this amount) and then stir in flour enough to make almost a drop-batter. Let it stand ten minutes, then add the beaten whites and more flour or milk to make it right to fry. 140 September Scallops These may be fried like oysters, after first letting them stand five minutes in scalding water and draining well. But sometimes it is not desirable to have frying done before a luncheon, and then they may be cooked en Coquille. Out each scallop once across the fibres and then into quarters, and put them into the shells, sprinkle with minced green pepper, lemon juice, a drop of onion juice, and nearly cover with thin cream ; put but- tered cracker crumbs over the whole, and bake about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve on a doily lined plate, with a bit of watercress. October Scalloped Oysters Allow one cup of rolled cracker, seasoned with salt and pepper and moistened with one-third cup of melted butter, for one pint of oysters. Add lemon juice to the oysters and a teaspoon of Worcestershire (or a ta- blespoon of wine if you prefer), but the sim- ple oyster fiavor is better to many tastes. Ar- range in alternate layers, — crumbs, oysters, crumbs, oysters and crumbs, never having 141 Scalloped Oysters more than two layers of oysters, as if more, those in the centre will be under done and those on the outside over done. Have the thickest layer of crumbs on top. Bake in small shells, or ramekins, or in one shallow dish. When the juice boils up and the crumbs are brown they are done- Crab Terrapin November Use one can of crab meat, or one pint of the fresh boiled crab. Add to it one parboiled sweetbread, or one cup of fresh mushrooms cut fine and sauted in butter and cream. Stir two tablespoons of flour into two of hot butter and add gradually one cup of hot thin cream. Add the crab meat mixture, and salt and pepper to taste. Keep it hot in the double boiler ten minutes. Just before serv- ing stir in the yolks of two eggs diluted with a little of the sauce, and two tablespoons of sherry wine. Serve in ramekins with wafers. 143 December Oyster Patties* £tc« Have ready the pattie shells, or volauvent made from nice puff paste, or croustade or box shaped loaf of bread, which ever form you prefer to hold the oysters. Parboil the oysters, drain, make a white sauce with part oyster liquor, part rich chicken stock, and part cream, one pint of the mixture, and add yolks of two eggs and an extra tablespoon of butter just before serving. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and half a cup of sauted fresh mushrooms; add the oysters cut small, and when hot fill the cases. Allow plenty of sauce, if you serve it in large form. Put on the cover and serve hot. 143 Potatoes 145 January Frencli Fried Potatoes Cut large raw, pared potatoes into eighths lengthwise, then into strips, soak in cold water half an hour, drain, dry, fry a few at a time in hot deep fat, less hot than for cooked mixtures. February Mashed Potatoes Drain off the water from six boiled pota- toes when done, (pared before cooking), re- turn to the fire, add from one-third to one^ half cup of milk, one tablespoon of butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, a dash of celery pepper or celery salt and common pepper, and mash all together and beat with a wire beater, or large fork, until very smooth and light. If too soft keep over the fire and beat longer. If too stiff add a trifle more milk. Turn out lightly without pressing down smooth. For Potato Roses add two egg yolks and more cream, enough to force the mixture easily through a star tube in a pastry bag. Press it out where the garnish is to be, and if desired, baste with beaten egg and brown slightly. 147 Potato CroQuettes March Season one pint of hot sifted boiled potato with one tablespoon of butter, a dash of salt and paprika, a few drops of lemon juice, a teaspoon of minced parsley or two table- spoons of grated cheese, and when cool, add the yoke of one egg and one or two table- spoons of cream. When cold shape into rolls or small balls, crumb, egg and crumb and fry in smoking hot deep fat. Vary them if you like by making a well in a ball of the potato, then put in a teaspoon of creamed peas, or chicken, or crumbled cheese, draw the potato over and crumb as before. Hastied BroMrn Potatoes April Chop quite fine one pint of pared raw potatoes. Put two tablespoons of good beef dripping into a frying pan, add the potatoes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add two tablespoons of stock or hot water, cover tightly and let them cook very slowly on the back of the range. Peep in occasionally after fifteen minutes and try them. When soft draw over the fire and let them brown like hash. Add a very 148 Hashed Broivn Potatoes little water or stock if needed during the cooking, and at the last add milk or cream if you prefer. When a thick crisp crust has formed all over the pan loosen at the edges and turn over and over and toss out like an omelet. May Potato Balls, Parisienne Press a French ball cutter into largo pared potatoes, the depth of the cutter, then give it a rolling turn in the potato and when withdrawn you will have a perfect ball, if you have pressed deep enough before turn- ing it over. Press the next time far enough away to avoid the hole left by the first. Einse, cook in water at a gentle boil about twelve minutes. When done drain, roll in melted butter, sprinkle with minced parsley and salt, or serve with a HoUandaise, or a thin white sauce. June Bermuda Potatoes Boiled Wash, scrub, scrape or pare, cook in boil- ing salted water from twenty to thirty min- 149 Bermuda Potatoes Boiled utes. Drain, roll in melted butter and serve with Hollandaise sauce, or with minced pars- ley. Creamed Potatoes July Cut cold boiled potatoes into small dice, sprinkle with salt, pepper and celery salt. Put into a sauce pan, half cover with milk or thin cream and eook until it is absorbed, add one tablespoon of butter and one of minced parsley and serve at once. BaKed Potatoes August Wash, scrub, cook in hot oven about half an hour, if large three-quarters; turn them twice and crush the skin as you take them out. Serve at once and uncovered, that the steam may escape. Stuffed Potatoes. — Bake, remove inside, season, mix with any kind of minced meat or fish, with sauce, or cream, pile high in each skin, cover with beaten egg-white or buttered crumbs and brown slightly. 150 September Potatoes au Gratin Season hot mashed potato, or baked po- tato scooped from the halved skins, with but- ter, salt, cayenne, grated cheese and cream ; refill skins, or use shells, cover with buttered crumbs and bake until brown. Or, use layers of sliced cold boiled pota- toes, cheese and white sauce, cover with crumbs and bake fifteen minutes. October Glazed S-w^eet Potatoes Spread one tablespoon of butter over the bottom of a baking pan, sprinkle with one of sugar, cover with a layer of sliced cold baked or boiled sweet potatoes (one- third inch) not too close; add another spoon of butter and sugar and another layer of pota- toes, butter and sugar, add hot water to nearly cover. Cover with a pan and bake half an hour, or until water is absorbed and potatoes glazed. Use more butter and sugar if you wish them richer. 'November BaKed Street Potatoes Select small potatoes round as possible, and scrub well, then bake until soft but do 161 BaKed Sifireet Potatoes not burn. Wipe off the browned skin, stand them upright in a small cup, like an egg cup, cut off a slice from the top, put in a piece of butter and serve very hot. To be eaten from the cup, adding butter as needed. Lyonnaise Potatoes December One pint of sliced cold boiled potatoes, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook one tablespoon of minced green pepper and one of minced onion in two of butter until soft but not browned. Add the potatoes and toss about until they absorb the butter. Add one tablespoon of tarragon vinegar and keep hot until ready to dish. Then add minced parsley. 153 Entrees of Eggs, Vege- tables and CHeese 153 January Green Peppers Stuffed Cut off the tops, remove seeds and fibre, and boil five minutes. Fill with cold baked beans seasoned with minced onion and pickles. Cover with buttered bread crumbs and bake half an hour, basting with butter melted in hot water. Serve on squares of toasted brown bread. 'February Moulded Spinach Pick over, wash in five waters and cook in its own juices until tender. Drain, chop very fine, heat again, season with butter, salt and pepper, and moisten with a bit of hot cream to make a smooth mixture; pack in small moulds and turn out on a platter; with the whites of hard boiled eggs in the centre, the whole yolks between the moulds, and a sprig of green on the edge. Serve hot as an entree, or cold as a salad, with French dressing. March Cheese Croquettes Cook two tablespoons of cornstarch in two of hot butter, add one cup of hot cream gradually, and when thick and smooth sea- 155 Cheese Croquettes son with salt, cayenne, one-half teaspoon of mustard, and one tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese; then stir in one cup of rich American dairy cheese, cut in small dice, and when melted add yolks of two eggs. Turn into shallow pans and when cold cut in small oblong pieces, cover with crumbs, egg and crumbs, and fry in smoking hot deep fat. Drain and serve hot, with a plain lettuce salad, or with toasted wafers. Spaghetti -with Tomato April Cook spaghetti in corn beef stock, or any good stock, until nearly tender and the stock reduced, then add condensed tomato (to cover, and let it simmer twenty minutes. Add a generous portion of butter, and when it is absorbed, add salt and pepper and serve. Pass Sap-sago cheese with this course, or use any other preferred variety. Asparagus Mai/ This is always more acceptable as a course by itself. Trim off the tough ends and cook the re- 156 Asparaifus mainder in boiling water, slightly salted un- til tender. Drain and serve on toast. Spread the toast with butter and add more to the asparagus, after it is laid on, add salt and a shake of pepper. For a formal luncheon cut the asparagus in three-inch pieces, and the toast a trifle longer, and serve it in in- dividual dishes. Or cut in inch pieces and moisten with cream sauce, add lemon juice, and serve in cases made from scooped out rolls, slightly browned first in the oven. June Spanish Omelet Cook in a small sauce pan two tablespoons of butter, one tablespoon each of minced green pepper, onion, or chives and four mushrooms minced. When yellow add one cup of strained reduced tomato, and let the mixture simmer while you prepare the ome- let. Beat four eggs slightly, add four table- spoons of thick cream, and a little salt. Ttirn into a hot buttered pan and lift up the cen- tre as it cooks, and when the cooked portion is all drawn away from the edges and it is nearly firm, put the solid portions of the 157 Spanish Omelet sauce over the omelet, and fold and turn out and pour the liquid part around the edge, and serve at once. Broiled Tomatoes July Cut large smooth tomatoes in two or three thick slices. Lay them on a broiler, and as they heat spread with butter and cook until done, adding butter as needed ; sprinkle with salt and pepper when done and serve very hot; or saut^ them in hot butter if preferred. Corn Fritters August To one cup of fresh grated corn pulp add one beaten egg and one tablespoon of flour; season highly with salt and black pepper, add one-half teaspoon of baking powder and fry by small portions in hot butter, turning when brown. Use two eggs if the corn is thin. Corn on the cob should be served as a course, with small doilies laid on the plate to use in holding the hot corn, and a fork to cut through the rows. By running the 158 Corn Fritters point of one tine up through each row with a little pressure, every kernel may be opened. September. Broiled Mushrooms Select enough of the largest mushrooms '(Campestris) to allow one to each guest, and lay them in melted butter slightly salted and peppered. Cut the remainder in fine slices. Saut^ them in one tablespoon of butter, and when the juice flows, add enough cream to cover and let them simmer ten minutes. Have ready slices of bread toasted on the under side. Broil the selected mushrooms and when done, pour the minced mixture on the toast, and lay a whole broiled mush- room on top of each, and serve at once. October Cauliflower au Gratin Cut boiled cauliflower into small portions and put into a baking dish, or several small baking shells. Cover with a white sauce into which you have stirred some grated cheese, one-half cup to one cup of sauce. Cover the whole with buttered cracker crumbs and bake until brown. 159 Curried £^^s vrith R.ice November Pack a buttered border mould with hot boiled rice, and let it stand until it will turn out. Make a white sauce, using one teaspoon of curry powder with the flour, and when smooth add to it four to six hard boiled eggs sliced in fourth-inch slices; when hot season with salt and pepper if needed, and turn it into the rice border and serve hot. Or, mould the rice in small forms, leaving a cavity in the centre, and fill with the eggs and sauce. Cheese Souffle December Cook one-half cup of soft bread crumbs with one cup of hot milk to a smooth paste, add one cup of grated cheese and when this melts add yolks of two eggs beaten well, and a dash of pepper. When the egg is slightly thickened remove from the fire and let it cool a little, then fold in the stiflly beaten whites. Fill buttered serving dishes, and bake in a moderate oven about fifteen min- utes. Serve instantly. Better wait for the souffle, than to have it wait. 160 Meats 161 January Broiled SteaK Broil a sirloin or rump steak (cut one- and-one-fourth inches thick) until pink all through and crisp outside, turning fre- quently to ensure this result. When done season with salt and butter, and arrange a cup of lettuce leaves in one corner, in which put a mixture of one-half cup of whipped cream and three tablespoons of prepared horseradish and three tablespoons of lemon juice. Or, cut the steak in narrow strips and serve from the side with a tiny lettuce cup filled with the horseradish sauce on each plate. Serve bananas sautM in hot butter, first cutting in halves each way, with the steak. February Mutton Chops Select the kidney chops, with a bit of ten- derloin on each, cut one and one-half inches thick, trim off the flank and use for a stew. Cook them under the gas, turning once, and when brown all over they will be done; about eight minutes. Serve them around a mound of mashed potatoes, and with no other sauce than a little salt. It will be a pleasant 163 Mutton Chops change from the sauces usually served, and your guests can but enjoy it if the mutton is of the best quality. Mutton en Cocruille au Gratin Cut cold cooked lean mutton into dice, and put into a baking dish, or shells, or rame- kins, with alternate layers of oysters, (and spaghetti if you like), and moisten with a highly seasoned tomato sauce. Sprinkle but- tered cracker crumbs and cheese over the top and bake until they are brown. Breaded Veal MarcU Inch slices from the loin. Remove the bone and skin, pound and press it into good shape. Crumb, egg and crumb, and cook slowly in the hot veal suet, with butter added if the suet be lacking, or use salt pork fat. Cook thoroughly but do not burn them. Serve with tomato sauce. 164 CO a o u O 'April Crown of Lamb For this dish use the rib chops, and have the marketman prepare it, using two, three, or four sets of four chops each. They are split between each rib on the inside and bent round and tied into a circular shape with the meat inside the ring. The bones are scraped clean for about two inches. Cover these with a band of buttered paper while baking. Bake about half an hour. Remove the paper and trim each bone with a paper ruffle. If you have a large crown, fill the centre with mashed potato and have peas round the outside. Divide between each rib in serv- ing. [(See illustration facing page 164.), May Svreetbreads If perfect when they come from the mar- ket there will be a large round portion joined to a long narrow one. Trim off the loose membranes, pipes, etc., and cook in boiling salted water with one tablespoon of lemon juice for twenty minutes, thirty if large. Drain and let cold water run over them until chilled. Drain again and cut in slices, saut^ in hot butter, and serve with white sauce; 165 Siveetbreads garnish' with minced parsley on each slice. Or, dip in melted butter and broil. Veal Birds, or R.olls June Pound well trimmed slices of raw veal from the leg, until one-fourth inch thick, and shape into pieces two by four inches. Spread each piece with a nicely seasoned stuffing, prepared as for roast chicken. Roll up tightly and tie. Dredge with salt, pep- per and flour, and brown slightly in hot but- ter and veal suet mixed. Add thin cream to half cover and let them simmer until very tender, about half an hour. Add lem- on juice to the cream left in the pan, and the beaten yolk of one egg just as you remove it. Serve each bird on a slice of toast, and pour some of the sauce over it. Add a little horseradish to the sauce if you prefer. Jellied Veal, Etc. July Use a shoulder of lamb, or a knuckle of veal, or a small fowl, not too old. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil quickly. Skim, and then let it simmer until tender 166 Jellied Veal, Etc. and the bones clean. Cook with it an onion, a stalk of celery, or a bit of bay leaf and a teaspoon of salt. When tender remove the meat and pick it all from the bones. Ee- turn the bones to the water and boil until reduced to one cup. Pick the meat into bits, remove the fat from the stock and season to taste. Avoid too much of the sweet herb flavor, but celery, salt, lemon and parsley, will go well with chicken, and just a sus- picion of herbs with the lamb or veal. Add the stock to the meat and make it quite moist, then pack it into a buttered pan and set away to cool. Slice when cold and serve garnished with shredded lettuce. August Svreetbreads (Chaudfroid) Melt three tablespoons of butter, add four tablespoons of corn starch or arrowroot, one- half teaspoon of salt, a dash of paprika and when smooth stir in gradually one cup of cream and one-half cup of veal stock mixed. When thick, add one tablespoon of granu- lated gelatine softened in one-fourth cup of cold water. Cook until smooth and thick. 167 Siveetbreads. E.tc. Color it to taste ; with two egg yolks for yel- low, adding one-fourth cup more of stock or milk; or with tomato pulp for red; or to any desired shade with color pastes. For a brown sauce let the butter brown before adding the starch". Tomato with a brown sauce will give a terra cotta color. Have the cooked meat or sweetbreads cut in shape for serving and well chilled; then cover them all over with the sauce, and be careful that it is smooth. Keep very cold until serving time. 8tand the meat up against a mound of mixed vegetable salad, or serve individually on a bed of shredded lettuce. Tongue in Jelly September Boil three pints of clear, rich consomme stock, add one box of gelatine (which has been soaked in one cup of cold water). Stir till dissolved and use it to mould a cold boiled tongue. Put into the mould stock to the depth of half an inch, and let it be- come firm. Then lay in the tongue and slowly pour in the remainder of the stock. 168 Tongue in Jelly When cold dip quickly into warm water, in- vert on a platter and lift off the pan care- fully. The tongue is first cooked in boiled salted water at a gentle heat until tender, then skinned and tied into good shape, and allowed to become cold. Serve whole, if to be carved at the table, or in slices cut very thin, with some of the jelly on each portion. October Salpicon in Timbale Cases Mix three-fourths cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt and one-half cup of milk to a smooth batter; add one slightly beaten egg, one tablespoon of melted butter, or olive oil, then beat all together until very smooth. Turn it into a cup and dip a Swedish timbale iron (which has stood in hot lard for five minutes, or until quite hot) into the batter cup to within half an inch of the top, give it a slight tilt to one side as you lift it out, then plunge it quickly into the hot lard and hold it there until the case is a delicate brown. Lift out, drain, turn over on to soft paper and remove the case. Fill them with 169 Salpicon in Timbale Cases any preferred mixture of meat, game, or poultry, cut in small dice and moistened' with an equal amount of rich cream, or brown sauce, according to the meat used. Season appropriately. Beef Fillet, Bearnaise Sauce November Out the tenderloin into steaks three- fourths inch thick, and trim into shape. Broil quickly over hot fire and serve with a sauce made ready before the broiling. Pour two tablespoons of hot water over One tablespoon of minced onion or chives, or shallot, and let it simmer while you cream one-fourth pound pat of butter. Beat yolks of four eggs, add one-half teaspoon of salt, a dash of cayenne, and the strained water, and cook over hot water until thick and smooth, stirring constantly and lifting up frequently.. Add two tablespoons of tarragon vinegar, then stir in the creamed butter in small por- tions. Serve a tablespoon of the sauce on each fillet. 170 E T3 ID % T3 a a M C ;3 tie c ■l o m December Tongue Fillets Sauted Cut a cold boiled tongue in long thick slices and trim into shapely oblongs. Saut^ one minced onion and one-fourth cup of diced carrot in hot butter, with a bit of bay leaf and half a teaspoon of mixed whole spice. When cooked, add one cup of stock or the tongue liquor, and season with salt and paprika. Strain it over one tablespoon of flour cooked in one of hot butter and when thick and smooth keep it hot while you saut6 the tongue in hot butter. Cover with the sauce and serve. 171 Vegetables 173 January Bananas Sauted Peel, scrape, divide once each way, lay the quarters in hot butter, turn when brown, and when done add a little salt and lemon juice* Serve with beefsteak or veal chop. BaKed Scttiash in Shell Divide Hubbard squash into squares (two inches), steam till tender, drain and set the shells into ramekins or small dishes, season with salt and butter while eating it from the shell. February Cucumbers Pare off a thick slice at the stem end, and a thin paring elsewhere. Soak in cold water ten minutes, drain very dry, and serve with French dressing, accompanying the fish course. Slice them with a fluted cutter, if preferred, and serve like a whole cucumber, or in overlapping slices, or like a Greek cross; add the dressing just before serving. Or chop the cucumber fine, add one table- spoon of vinegar and stir it into a HoUand- aise Sauce. Or chop fine and to one cup of cucumber, add salt, cayenne, a few drops of 175 Cucumbers onion juice and one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice, and mix it well into two cups of thick whipped cream. Serve with cold boiled salmon. I^ice March Soak one-half cup of washed rice in one pint of cold water, in top of double boiler half an hour, then boil it briskly until nearly dry, add one-half teaspoon of salt, place it over boiling water, add one cup of hot milk and let it steam until tender and milk ab- sorbed. Remove cover to dry it off before serving. Use it in place of potatoes, with veal, or Iamb, or chicken. French ArtichoKes April Cut off the stalk, cook in boiling salted water half an hour, serve one to each person, or divide if large, or you have many courses. Put a tablespoon of Hollandaise on each plate. The base of each leaf is dipped in the sauce and bitten off, then the fond, or bottom, is eaten with a fork. Or, serve cold with mayonnaise. 176 •^r*- 'May String Beans These are found in city markets all the year, both green and yellow varieties; the yellow are preferred by many. Pare off a thin strip to ensure removing all the strings, , then cut in long narrow slanting strips, and , soak in cold water. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a stew pan with a tight cover, add one teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of minced onion, a dash of pepper and one- fourth teaspoon of nutmeg. Put in the beans with the water that adheres to them, as you lift them out, cover tightly and cook very slowly until tender, one to two hours. Shake the pan frequently, and if a hissing sound is heard, add water, merely to cover the bottom. They should be dry when done, June Peas Shell, wash quickly, cover with boiling water, cook until tender, letting water nearly all evaporate. Add salt, sugar, a dash of pepper, but be generous With butter. Or add a little cream if you like. Canned Peas. — Pour off all the liquor and 177 Peas rinse in several waters to remove taste of the tin. Drain, heat quickly in butter, salt, a bit of sugar and pepper. Serve quite dry and as a garnish for crown of lamb, chops, croquettes, or any entree of chicken or lamb. Summer Sctuash July Select very young, tender specimens, yel- low crook necks. Wash, pare very thin where they are at all hard, cut in thick slices and cook in boiling water barely to cover, until tender. Turn into a cheese cloth strainer over a bowl, mash, squeeze, but not too dry; then add butter, salt and pepper and serve at once. When tender the seeds will cook soft, but if they are large remove them before cooking. 'Buttered or Creamed Beets. — ^Wash care- fully new beets, cook in boiling water until tender (one hour if quite young), immerse in cold water and rub off skins with the hands. Slice thin and then again into dice. Keturn to the fire and toss about in hot but- ter, salt, pepper and lemon juice, and serve very hot. Or serve in a thin cream sauce. 178 August Summer Carrots Wash, trim, cook in boiling salted water, barely to cover, until tender; peel and cut in quarters lengthwise and serve in white sauce. Or put them in bating dish, sprinkle with sugar, and dot with bits of butter, add one tablespoon of lemon juice and four of hot water, or stock, and let them bake until well glazed. Canned Ohra. — Turn the contents of a can of okra into a stew pan containing one table- spoon of melted butter. Heat through quickly, add salt, a bit of pepper, and one tablespoon of lemon juice and serve very hot. September Sieva Beans Select the small Lima or Sieva beans. Shell, wash, cover with boiling water, cook until tender, letting water nearly evaporate at the last; add butter, salt, sugar, and pepper, or use cream and less butter. Succotash. — ^Add grated sweet corn to the beans in equal proportions, ten minutes be- fore serving. 179 I^ed Cabbage October T»im, divide into quarters, soak, drain, slice very thin, drain again and put into a stew pan in which you have fried a slice of fat salt pork, first cutting it in tiny dice. Add one tart apple cut fine and one-fourth «up of hot water for one-quart of shredded cabbage. When half done, add two table- spoons of vinigar. Keep it well covered dur- ing the cooking and it should be nearly dry when done. Salsify "November Wash, cook in boiling water until tendeli', peel, cut in halves and divide in two-inch lengths, and saut6 quickly in hot butter; or dip in fritter batter and fry in hot deep fat^ Gape Turnip. — Slice one-half inch thick, cut in dice, cook in boiling salted water till tender. Drain and serve in white sauce ; or mash, season with salt, pepper and butter, 180 December Brussels Sprouts Eemove outer leaves, soak in salted water one hour. Drain, cook in boiling water until tender, from fifteen to twenty-five mini utes. Toss about in hot butter, add lemon juice, salt and pepper, and serve plain, or on a mound of mashed boiled chestnuts, or in ramekin shells with white sauce and but- tered crumbs and bake until browned, Crmherry Sauce. — Put one quart of washed cranberries, one pint of sugar and one cup of water in porcelain kettle. Cover tightly and cook ten minutes after they boil. Serve without sifting. 181 Poultry and Game 183 January Devilled Fillets of ChlcRen Out the raw meat into long thin strips, or use the legs of cooked turkey, or thin por- tions of the breast, dip them in melted but- ter and broil until cooked or heated through, then place on a hot serving dish and spread with the hot mixture, two tablespoons of vinegar, two of Worcestershire sauce, or mushroom catsup, or Al sauce, one teaspoon of made mustard, one tablespoon of chut- ney sauce, and a dash of salt. These hot compounds are largely a matter of taste and may be added separately as preferred, or the meat may be gashed and laid in the devilled mixture before broiling. February Salmi of DucR Cut the lean meat in small cubes, discard the skin and fat, stew the bones and strain for stock. Cook two tablespoons of sliced onions in two tablespoons of hot butter until brown, add two tablespoons of flour and one cup of hot stock, season with salt, cayenne, one tablespoon of tomato catsup, and one-half cup of currant jelly. Add six stoned olives 185 Salmi of DucR six chopped mushrooms and the diced game (about two cups). Simmer ten minutes, then add one-half cup of claret, or the juice of one sour orange. Serve on fried bread, or squares of fried cornmeal mush. Braised Piifeons March Split the pigeons down the back, allow- ing one half for each person. For three or four pigeons, cook three slices of bacon in a frying pan until crisp, remove and cut into bits. In the fat cook one-half cup of sliced onion and carrot for five minutes. Put three tablespoons of butter in the casserole [(or into a granite pan having a tight cover, if you have no casserole), dredge the pigeons with flour and brown them slightly in this. Pour over them three cups of brown stock, or hot water, add the bits of bacon, the vege- tables, an inch of bay leaf, two cloves and six peppercorns, or a tablespoon of minced green pepper. Cover tightly and let it cook on top of the range or in the oven until ten- der, from one to three hours, according to the age of the birds. Twenty minutes be- 186 Braised Pigeons fore serving, add a pint of potato balls (cut with a French cutter and browned first in hot butter) and half a cup of canned mush- rooms cut in halves. Or, add canned peas ten minutes before serving. When done, re- move the liquid fat from the top, and if the flour has not thickened the liquor enough, add more brown roux. Serve in the casse- role, or if done in a pan, serve from the side. Steak, Veal, and Poultry may be prepared en casserole. April Broiled Sctuabs Split down the back, cut off head and feet, singe, dip all over in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, wrap them in buttered paper and broil over quick fire from ten to twelve minutes. Eemove papers and serve on squares of toast spread with sifted spinach. Mai/ ChicKen Croquettes 'Allow equal parts of thick white sauce and finely minced cooked chicken breast. 187 ChicKen CroQuettes Season with salt, cayenne, lemon juice, minced parsley and a few drops of onion juice. Cool and then shape into cylinders, crumh-egg-and-crumb, and fry in deep smok-^ ing hot lard. Use half cream and half chicken stock for the sauce. See White Sauce. ChicKen Tlmbales June Take enough of the breast of raw chicken to fill a cup packed in solid, chop it fine, or run it twice through a meat chopper, re- moving all the fibres. Cook one cup of soft white bread crumbs in one-half cup of milk and stir to a smooth paste. When cool stir it gradually into the meat, then rub it all through the puree sieve, add one teaspoon of salt and a dash of paprika. Beat the whites of four large eggs stiff, then beat them gradually into the paste. Line small timbale moulds with a round of buttered paper, decorate the sides, if you please, with fancy shapes of carrot or hard egg, or with peas, mushrooms or truffles. Nearly fill with the forcemeat and stand them on a fold 188 ClkicRen Timbales of paper, or wife netting, in a pan half filled with water, and bake in a moderate oven about fifteen minutes. Turn out on a hot platter and surround with a rich cream sauce, fiavored with truflSes, or mushrooms, as you prefer. Garnish with peas. Mousselines. — These moulds are rounded on the bottom like a thimble and when filled are propped up in a timbale mould, which is flat on the bottom. Sometimes the bottom rounds up into the centre like a hat with a high turned-iip brim. The mixture, which is very rich with thick whipped cream, fills the hollow Space, and when cooked and turned out the centre is filled with some salpicon of game, etc., in a rich sauce. July Quail on Toast Dress as for roasting, with the feet bent up and tied over the vent. Hub all over with soft butter, and lay a slice of fat salt pork over the breast. Bake in a quick oven, basting often, add two tablespoons of water after five minutes, bake half an hour ; being 189 Quail on Toast white meat, they should be well done. Serve on buttered toast moistened with hot water mixed with a tablespoon of mushroom cat- sup. Serve canned cherries with this game; or serve diced bananas in fresh currant syrup. IVoast DucKlin^s August Dress, spread with soft butter and cook in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Add a very little water, after they have browned, for the frequent basting. Serve from the side half a breast for each cover and pass hot green apple sauce. Squeeze the juice from a sour orange into the gashes when carving. Cook wild ducks rare without stuffing; and tame ducks well done with stuffing of potato flavored with celery and onion. Green Apple Sauce. — Put quartered, pared tart apples into a porcelain kettle, partly cover with hot water, cover tightly and stew till tender. Mash, add butter, salt and sugar, and serve hot. Do not sift un- less lumpy. 190 September Broiled ChicKen Dress, split down the back, pound the breast down, lay it on a buttered baking pan, spread all over with softened butter, salt, pepper and flour, or cracker dust. Bake about twenty minutes, adding half a cup of water after five minutes. Then re- move to the broiler and cook five to ten min- utes longer, to brown. Serve with melted butter, lemon juice, and minced parsley com- bined. October Venison, in the Blazer Cut the venison three-fourths inch thick and into pieces for serving; let them lie in spiced vinegar for several hours. Drain and cook quickly at the table, in hot butter in the blazer. When done, remove, add to the pan another tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of currant jelly, or port or claret; when hot return the meat, and serve at once with Sauted Bananas, which may be prepared by another person with an extra chafing dish. 191 Grouse or Partridi^e November Dress and truss for roasting, without stuffing. Cover the breast with fat salt pork, place a cube of bread soaked in tarragon vinegar inside and cook in hot oven about twenty minutes for grouse (which should be rare) ahd thirty for partridge. Partridge being a dry meat, remove the pork after ten minutes and the fat also, and add sweet or sour cream to the pan, enough to half cover, and baste frequently with this. Then serve with the seasoned cream for a sauce. Grouse are not often stuffed, but a few bits of celery may be put in if desired. Serve with Bread Sauce. Cook one-third cup of soft bread crumbs in one pint of hot milk, with two table- spoons of onion, fifteen minutes in double boiler, add one tablespoon of butter, one- half teaspoon of salt and a dash of pepper, and cook until the grouse is ready. Pour it around the bird and cover with buttered brown crumbs; or serve from the side, carv- ing the breast only, in thick slices, and serve sauce and crumbs with each portion. 193 December R,eed Birds Choose potatoes of suitable shape, divide lengthwise and cut out a little potato from each half; dress the birds and season with melted butter, salt and pepper. Lay one in each half potato case, or use the breast only, if large, and bake until the potato is done. Baste with melted butter in hot water. Serve in the case. 193 Salads 195 January Grape Fruit White grapes, skinned, halved and seeded, — grape fruit pulp in as large portions as possible and well drained, almonds or Eng- lish walnuts blanched and shredded, pista- chios nuts in thin slivers, pecan nuts broken into bits, boiled chestnuts sliced, mandarin and sour oranges freed from all pith and seeds and cut small, French fruits, brandied figs or peaches, and pineapples diced, — ^may be used in combinations of two or more kinds, with or without celery and green pep- per, or sweet red pepper, using the orange or lemon or grape fruit juice in place of vine- gar, and dressed with oil and slightly with salt, and served on lettuce leaves, in cups made from the fruit skins. They will be very acceptable for luncheons at this season, and take the place of a sherbet or punch. Or they may be dressed with sherry, or rum and sugar. February Lettuce Salad Wash each leaf by itself, pile on a wet napkin, tie and lay on ice. Arrange in salad bowl like an open head, or on a platter 197 Lettuce Salad in individual portions made up of four leaves, graded size, and either dress it all together, or pass the dressing in a bowl. [(See illustration.) Vary it by adding grated cheese, or minced chives, or pepper- grass, or finely broken nuts, or minced green pepper. Or use the largest leaves cut into narrow strips and garnish with strips of cream cheese and pecans. ^(See illustration facing page 196.): Lobster Salad March Marinate one pint of diced lobster with a French dressing and when very cold, arrange in lettuce cups and serve with mayonnaise poured over the top. Crab Salad may be prepared in the same way, and either will be suitable for the principal dish at a spring luncheon when hot meat is not desired. Chicken 'Salad. — Prepare in the same way, using white meat and an equal amount of sliced celery, combining them first with some of the mayonnaise and serving withl 198 Lobster Salad lettuce. Add hard boiled eggs halved length- wise, to either salad if the main ingredient is scanty. April Sweetbread Salad Mix equal parts of diced boiled sweet- breads and raw cucumbers with the Whipped Cream dressing and serve sur- rounded with a wreath of watercress. Oysters may be used instead of sweetbreads, and if so, add horseradish to the dressing. Egg Salad is seasonable at this time. Simply cut hard cooked eggs in quarters lengthwise and serve hot on lettuce with French dressing, or grate the yolks over the lettuce, or make them into a paste with minced tongue or ham, moisten with may- onnaise or cream, make into small balls and arrange in groups of three in a lettuce cup, surrounded by finely shredded dark green lettuce. May Potato Salad One pint of potatoes boiled in their skins and sliced while hot, each layer seasoned 199 Potato Salad with minced Bermuda onions (two of me- dium size), a sprinkling of salt and paprika, and a tablespoon of oil. Continue the lay- ers until all are used, then toss over care- fully, and add more oil until the potatoes will not take any more. Add one-half as much vinegar as oil. Let it stand in the ice- chest at least an hour, longer is better, and before serving taste and add more salt or vinegar if needed. Make it into a smooth mound on a platter and garnish with sprays of parsley. Or sprinkle some minced pars- ley or green pepper, or canned red pepper, over the top. When this is to be one of the substantial dishes on a hot day, add yolks of hard eggs to the garnish, or use mayonnaise dressing. Salad of Summer Frtxits June Combine any two or three of the summer fruits with the cream mayonnaise dressing and serve in layers in a glass salad bowl, keeping each fruit by itself. If a sweet dressing is liked, make it in this way: Make a white sauce with cream instead of 300 Salad of Summer Fruits milk, add one-fourth, cup of lemon juice and just before removing from the fire, stir in quickly the yolks of two eggs beaten with one-fourth cup of sugar, add salt to taste, and a bit of mace (just a hint of it) . Let it become very cold before serving. Combine oranges, bananas, pineapples and strawberries. Or cherries, with bits of nuts in place of the stone, and with pine- apples, or not. Sprinkle rose petals over sliced bananas and cover with cherries or use apricots in place of bananas. Combine sliced peaches with shredded al- monds and serve with whipped cream sweetened, and made acid with lemon juice. July Macedoine of Vegetables Combine any remnants of cold boiled vegetables and dress with French dressing, using onion, or scallions, or chives quite freely. Potatoes, peas, cucumbers, for one combination. Potatoes, beets, scallions and string beans, make another. Peas, carrots and celery still another. 801 Macedoine of Vegetables Asparagus tips, sliced radishes, and shredded lettuce, and so on, the combina- tions are unlimited. Nasturtiums make a lovely garnish for many summer salads, and the minced stems with a bit of the seed give a delightful piquancy. Tomato Salad August Peel by first rubbing all over the tomato with a broad knife, to slightly loosen the skin from the pulp; or if necessary, scald, but slightly, then cut in slices and serve plain with French dressing passed at the table; or with sliced cucumbers; or, cut out in points from the centre half way down to the stem, in five places, turn them back from the centre pulp, making a tulip; or, slice off from the top and remove centres and fill with diced cucumbers, celery, nuts, or artichoke fonds, or cauliflower flowerets, or any preferred combination; and dress with French or mayonnaise dressing. Use yellow egg tomatoes in the same way. Onion blends well with tomato, and lettuce 202 "3 a B o c §-2 o u o u E a T) M Tomato Salad may be used in many ways as a garnish or receptacle. (See illustration facing page 202.) Melon Salad. — If melons are not used at the beginning or as an ice, they may appear as a salad dressed simply with French dress- ing, or with salt, pepper and sugar to taste. September Catilifloiver Salad Arrange the bits of flowerets in a salad bowl, with watercress round the edge, and cover with grated cheese, or a sprinkling of green pepper, and serve with French dressing. Lima Beans, boiled till tender, but not broken, and when cold dressed with salt, paprika, oil, minced chives and vinegar and served in lettuce leaves, or tomato cupsi, may be used now to give variety. 203 Salad in Green Pepper Cups October Slice off the tops, remove seeds and white fibres, and scald for ten minutes. Drain and chill, then fill with minced cabbage and celery, moistened with mayonnaise. Nut Salads November Boiled chestnuts combine well with bana- nas and oranges; English walnuts with peas, celery, apples, carrots, cheese and figs; pecans with apples, celery and many others; and either dressing is suitable. A general formula would be Equal parts of apple and celery and one- fourth part nuts. Cut celery in crescent shaped pieces as it naturally slices, and the apples in eighths, and then across in thin slices, and crumble but not chop the nuts. Use French, or may- onnaise or the boiled dressings, — enough to moisten, and serve on lettuce. Tomato Jelly Salad December Soak one-half box of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water fifteen minutes, dissolve 204 Tomato Jelly Salad in three cups of boiling, highly seasoned, strained tomato, using a little hot water if one can of tomato does not make the full three cups. When dissolved turn it into small moulds wet in cold water; or, use moulds of two sizes if a hollow shape is de- sired. Chill, turn out on lettuce, and dress with the cooked or mayonnaise dressing. Fill the cups of jelly with some diced mix- ture; celery and nuts, cucumbers, or any combination you please. 205 Desserts 307 January Stewed Fi|(s Use the large whole figs usually seen in bags. Wash them in lukewarm water, then add fresh cold water and let them soak un- til plump. Heat gradually and simmer until very tender. Skim them out and boil the syrup down until thick, adding lemon juice to remove the excess of sweet. Strain it over the figs and serve cold, with plain cream, or surround with whipped cream. February Prune Souffle Stone and mash one dozen stewed prunes drained from the liquor. Beat the whites of four eggs very stiff, add four tablespoons of powdered sugar, the prunes and a few drops of lemon juice. Beat thoroughly, then turn into buttered moulds (small size) and bake about fifteen minutes, or until they puff up and are firm. Serve at once with sweetened whipped cream. March Caramel Custard Brown one-fourth cup of sugar in a hot pan, add one tablespoon of hot water and 209 Caramel Custard stir it into one pint of hot milk; pour this over three egg yolks, slightly beaten, add a dash of salt and one-half teaspoon of va- nilla. Pour it into small moulds buttered slightly, stand in a pan of hot water and bake about fifteen minutes, or till firm and a knife comes out clean. When cold, turn out and serve with: Caramel Sauce. — Melt one-half cup of sugar in an omelet pan, stir, and when brown add one-half cup of water; simmer ten minutes and serve when cold. Sponcfe Pudding April Scald all but a fourth of a pint of milk. To the cold milk add one cup of flour, one- half cup of sugar and a dash of salt, and when smooth stir it into the hot milk and cook ten minutes, stirring often. Add one rounded tablespoon of butter in small por- tions; remove, and when cool, stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs. Half an hour before serving time fold in the stiffly beaten whites, turn into a buttered pudding dish 310 c Sponi^e Pudding^ and bake in a moderate oven, in a pan of hot water, about half an hour. Serve imme- diately with a wine sauce. Or, bake it fif- teen minutes in individual moulds set in a pan of water. Creamy Sauce. — Cream one-half cup of butter, add one cup of powdered sugar and when light add slowly two tablespoons of sherry. Just before serving, heat over hot water barely enough to make it pour. May Strawberry- Short CaRea Make dough as directed for biscuit on page 61, add one beaten egg to the milk, and bake in muffin pans, or cut out in thin rounds with a large cutter. Bake, split and spread with a thick layer of mashed and sweetened strawberries, warmed just enough to melt the sugar and a tablespoon of butter. Cover with the half removed and pile that high with the fruit, and serve as hot as possible. an Sweet Omelette. Orange June Beat yolks of three eggs light, add three tablespoons of powdered sugar and three teaspoons of orange juice ; fold in the stifily beaten whites. Cook in hot buttered ome- let pan till it begins to puff, then stand in the oven to set the top. When firm in the centre, fold over, turn out on a hot platter, sprinkle powdered sugar over the top, and score it twice diagonally with a hot poker. Pineapple may be used in place of orange. '(See illustration opposite.) Charlotte R,usse July Soak one-half box of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water, when soft, add a scant cup of boiling water, juice of one lemon, one cup of sugar and one pint of orange juice. When dissolved, strain and fill a border mould wet in cold water, and place in a pan of ice. Whip one pint of thick cream with one-half cup of powdered sugar, a few grains of salt and a teaspoon of lemon juice until stiff. Turn out the jelly on a large round dish, stand up a row of lady 312 C O 3 o B *C a c 3 o Charlotte R.usse fingers round the inside, and fill the space with the whipped cream and serve. (See illustration facing page 212.) August Fruit Bavarian Cream Soak one-fourth box of gelatine in one- fourth cup of cold water; cook two egg yolks, beaten with one-fourth cup of sugar and a dash of salt, in one cup of hot milk, till smooth like soft custard, and strain into a pan set in ice water. When cool, add one- half cup of fresh fruit juice (cherries, rasp- berries, strawberries, orange, or half cur- rants and half bananas, mashed, sifted and sweetened to taste). When it begins to thicken, fold in one cup of thick cream whipped stiff, and turn into small moulds; then turn out and serve with some of the fresh fruit for a garnish, or the syrup for a sauce. September Peaches with Cream Line ramekins or small shallow dishes or fancy boxes with sponge drops, put into each half of a nice large peach pared and 213 Peaches ivith Cream stoned, fill the cavity with powdered sugar and shredded sweet almonds, moistened with whipped cream, and fill up the mould with thick cream sweetened and whipped stiff. Stick several of the almond slivers in the cream, or use bits of vanilla-rolled wafers in the same way. Flavor the cream with rum if you approve. Tartlettes. Fanchonnettes October Line small tins with paste, or cover the outside; prick holes in several places and bake on a tin sheet. Turn out and fill with : Lemon Butter. — Beat three eggs well, add two cups of sugar, beat again, add grated rind and juice of three lemons, one cup of water and one teaspoon of butter. Boil five minutes or until thick, and when cool seal in small glasses. Use it for tarts, or sandwiches. Or fill the lined pans before baking with squash or pumpkin prepared as for deep pies, and bake until firm. Mince meat, stewed apples, cranberries, or rhubarb, may be used for filling. 314 November Chestnut Cream Boil and mash one pint of large shelled chestnuts, add a dash of salt, and if not smooth, sift; stir in two tablespoons of powdered sugar, two tablespoons of cream, two of the syrup from canned cherries, or of Maraschino, and six or eight cherries cut in bits. Half fill glass cups with the mix- ture and pile on top thick cream whipped stiff sweetened and flavored with Maras- chino. December BaRed Bananas Peel and scrape three red bananas, divide once each way, and lay in a baking dish, sprinkle with three tablespoons of sugar, a dash of salt and three teaspoons of lemon juice and dot with three tablespoons of butter. Add water to half cover the fruit. Bake half an hour basting often. Serve hot on Egg Toast. (Bread sliced, soaked in one cup of milk, salted and thickened with beaten egg, and sautM in hot butter on each side.) 215 Frozen Desserts and PuncHes 217 January Lemon Ice. Frozen Mint Boil one cup of sugar with one quart of water and the shaved rind of one lemon ten minutes. Strain, and, when cold, add the juice of three lemons and enough more water to make the full quart, and more sugar if needed. Freeze in three parts ice and one salt until soft. Tint one-half of the ice pale green and flavor with essence of peppermint (one-half teaspoon) and serve the two colors in the same glass cup, or sep- arately if any do not like the mint. If fresh mint is at hand, crush a few sprigs in the hot syrup and add a fresh sprig to each cup. Or flavor the ice with Crfeme de Menthe cordial after freezing. MilK Sherbet Pack the freezer in three parts ice and one part salt. Turn into the can one quart of fresh milk; soak the shaved rind of two lemons in the juice of four, add a little sugar, and press hard with a punch stick; remove the peel, add sugar enough to make a thick batter (about one-and-one-half cups), and turn, or strain if necessary, into 319 MilR Sherbet the cold milk. Turn the crank until the cream is stiff, remove beater, repack, and let it stand to ripen. Serve in sherbet glasses. Biscuit Tortoni February Boil one cup of sugar in one-fourth cup of water until it threads, then pour it slowly into four egg yolks beaten in top of double boiler, stir over boiling water till it coats the spoon. Beat as it cools, add one teaspoon of vanilla, one tablespoon of wine (sherry or Maraschino,) and one pint of thick cream whipped stiff and one-half cup each of powdered macaroons and lady fingers. Freeze in the can without stirring, then pack in fancy paper cases, and sprinkle powdered vanilla wafers over the top. Put the boxes in the freezer can, with waxed paper between the layers, and let the can stand in ice and salt from two to three hours. Serve in the boxes, on a fancy plate lined with a paper doily. Bombs or round moulds, melon and small moulds representing all forms of flowers 220 Biscuit Tortoni and fruits are used for shaping ices and creams. Layers of two kinds or of three (harlequin) are packed in brick forms, and all sorts of combinations may be made, and served with or without sauces. March Red Orang^e Sherbet Boil two cups of water and one cup of sugar fifteen minutes, add one teaspoon of granulated gelatine softened in cold water, and the juice of one lemon. Pour it over one pint of orange or peach pulp, strain and when cold, freeze. If you prefer, cook six of the peach ker- nels in the syrup. Or omit the gelatine and pour part of the hot syrup over one or two beaten egg whites, and stir this mixture (meringue) into the partly frozen ice, then continue the freezing until stiff. This will give another variety. Freeze in three parts of fine ice and one of salt, and turn crank slowly until it stiffens, then rapidly until it turns hard. 221 White Parfait April Boil one cup of sugar and one cup of water until it threads, pour it slowly on to three egg whites beaten very stiff, beat un- til cold, then fold in one pint of thick cream, whipped very stiff; add one table- spoon of lemon juice and one cup of pre- served ginger cut very fine and rubbed to a paste with one tablespoon of the juice. Or use two cups of pineapple juice and pulp cut fine, in place of the ginger, retaining the lemon. Or flavor with four tablespoons of the liquor from Maraschino cherries, and serve the cherries and liquor as a sauce with the cream. Fill moulds of any desired shape, pack in equal parts ice and salt and let stand three hours. No stirring. Yellow Parfait May Beat the yolks of from two to six eggs, add slowly one cup of pure maple syrup, (boiled five minutes to reduce it,) cook in the double boiler until it coats the spoon; strain, beat until cold, fold in one pint of heavy cream whipped stiff, then freeze, 222 Yellow Parfait without stirring, in equal parts of ice and salt, and when turned from the mould, or served, sprinkle the top with finely chopped salted almonds, or with vanilla wafer pow- der. Some prefer to make a plain vanilla cream, with half the usual amount of sugar, (which is one cup boiled in one-fourth cup of water) and pour over it when serving a hot Maple Sauce, made by boiling one cup of thin cream, one pound of maple sugar broken into bits, and one rounding table- spoon of butter, in a sauce pan without stir- ring, until it forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Keep the pan in another of hot water until ready to use. It will remind one of the waxing off on the snow in sugaring time. Fruit Parfait. — Use one cup of sugar boiled five minutes with one-fourth cup of water, then add it to the eggs and cook until smooth. Add from one to two cups of fruit juice. The more juice the more egg needed to stiffen it, and sugar to sweeten. 223 Mousse June Soften one-fourth box of gelatine in one- fourth cup of cold water, dissolve in one- fourth cup of boiling water, add it to one pint of strained strawberry juice, sweeten to taste, (about one and one-half cups pow- dered sugar) ; chill, and as it begins to thicken, fold in carefully the drained whip from one pint of single cream whipped with a churn. Turn into melon moulds, cover with buttered paper and tin cover, pack in equal parts of salt and ice, and let stand three hours. Serve with Strawberry Sauce. — Boil one cup of water and three-fourths cup of sugar five minutes, cool, add two cups of cold strained straw- berry juice. Or line the mould with plain strawberry cream, and put the mousse in the centre. Plam Strawberry Cream is made in this way. Add one cup of powdered sugar to one quart of berries, mash, and after fif- teen minutes add one cup of thin cream or rich milk, then squeeze the juice through cheese cloth to keep back the seeds. Add 224 Mousse sugar to taste and one pint, or less of cream, scalded and cooled. Freeze as for Rich Ice Cream. July Frappe or Punch Boil four cups of water and two of sugar fifteen minutes; add the shaved rind of half a lemon and half an orange, and one cup of lemon juice. Pour it over one pint of fresh pineapple juice and pulp. When cold, strain and freeze in two parts of ice and one of salt, until soft like mush. Serve in cups. Use equal parts of ice and salt if time ia limited. Punch. — To the above mixture add after freezing, one-half cup of rum, or Maras- chino or champagne. Stir it into the frozen mixture thoroughly, or simply pour it over as you serve it. The formula for Orange Sherbet and for Lemon Ice may be used for punch. Melon Frappe. — Add one-fourth cup of lemon juice and one cup of sugar to one 225 Frappe or Punch quart of canteloup pulp, and press through! fine sieve. Freeze soft. Clam Frappe. — Steam thoroughly cleaned clams until they open. Drain, let the water stand until clear, pour off the sedi- ment, and strain through fine linen and freeze soft, in equal parts of ice and salt. Frozen Fruit ^August Cut any of the fresh summer fruits in tiny pieces, and use alone or in suitable combinations with two or more others. Add powdered sugar to taste, turn into the freezer can, without the beater, and let them stand packed in ice until well chilled. Serve in glass cups three-fourths full and top ofE with any suitable sherbet or water ice, or with sweetened whipped cream. The juice of one lemon to each quart of fruit will im- prove the flavor. Wmter Fruits. — Boil three cups of sugar in three cups of water ten minutes, with the shaved rind of one lemon. Strain, cool. Di- 32S Frozen Fruit lute the mashed pulp of three red bananas and one-half can of apricots with the juice of three oranges and three lemons and one cup of water, then press it all through a sieve, add the syrup and from one to two cups of thin cream. Freeze as directed for Rich Custard. September Plain Custard Ice Cream Use one pint of milk and cream, one cup of sugar and two whole eggs, (or one quart of milk, four whole eggs and one rounded tablespoon of butter) . Use also with either formula, two level tablespoons of flour, or one of cornstarch or arrowroot, to give body and smoothness in place of the large amount of eggs and cream in other form- ulas. Mix the starch and one-half cup of sugar and stir into the boiling milk until thick and smooth, then stir occasionally for twenty minutes. This long cooking is nec- essary to prevent any taste of the starch. Beat the yolks, add one-half cup of sugar, [(except whea caramel is used,) dilute with 237 Plain Custard Ice Cream a little of the hot mixture, then stir it in and cook for a moment. If chocolate flavor is desired add melted chocolate to suit taste and color. If butter is to be used, add it now, then remove and cool. When cold, add from one cup to one pint of thin cream and the flavoring, then strain into the freezer. Freeze as directed for Kich Ice Cream. Peach Ice Cream. — Cover one quart of the peeled and sliced fruit with powdered sugar to taste. Let it stand one hour, mash, strain, press through a sieve and stir it into the cream when partly frozen, using either recipe for the foundation. For Caramel, add caramel prepared' as directed on page 210. Neapolitan Ice Cream October Make custard with four yolks beaten with' one cup of sugar, a dash of salt and one pint of hot milk, and cook until it coats the spoon; strain, add the whites beaten until stiff, but not dry; when cold, add one pint 238 Neapolitan Ice Cream of cream, whipped or not as you please. This may be varied by using thin cream, for the cooked portion and only two eggs, or by using whites alone, or yolks alone, or by dissolving one level tablespoon of soft- ened granulated gelatine in the hot cus- tard before straining. Flavor with a va- nilla bean while cooking, or with vanilla ex- tract to taste, when cold. Freeze in one part rock salt to three parts fine ice and turn crank until stiff. Remove beater and pack down in the can, or pack in pound bak- ing powder boxes, buttered paper over top, cover and surround with ice and less salt for one hour. Serve with Hot Chocolate Sauce. — Boil one-half cup of sugar and an inch of stick cinnamon in one cup of water five minutes, remove the cinnamon, and add one square, or ounce of chocolate melted over hot water and mixed with one-half cup of milk, and when boil- ing, stir in one tablespoon of arrowroot or cornstarch wet in one-fourth cup of cold water. Stir while it boils for five minutes, add a dash of salt and one teaspoon of va- 239 Neapolitan Ice Cream nilla, and serve in a pitcher, pouring a por- tion over each slice of cream. Frozen Pudding November. Flavor a Neapolitan ice cream after freezing, with sherry or rum, and stir in from one to two cups of French candied fruit, cut in bits and soaked in the wina Pack in melon moulds, surround with ice and salt for two hours. Serve with or with- out rum, OP Bum Sauce. — Beat two egg yolks with one-fourth cup of powdered sugar, until very light, add two tablespoons of Jamaica rum and the whites beaten stiff; beat all together until thick and creamy, and serve very cold. Nesselrode Pudding. — ^Make the same as Frozen Pudding, adding one cup of sifted, boiled chestnut pulp, with the fruit. With either pudding a mixture of drained pre- served fruits, OP boiled raisins, citron and candied peels, or brandy figs may be used. 230 'December Philadelphia Cream Scald one quart of thin cream, (or, three cups of thick cream and one cup of milk,) add one scant cup of sugar and a dash of salt. When dissolved, cool and flavor to taste. Freeze as for Neapolitan Ice Cream. For 'Sultana Roll, tint the cream with green color paste, flavor with one-half tear spoon of bitter almond extract, and if pos- sible add one-half cup of finely chopped pis- tachio nuts. Freeze and line pound baking powder tins with the cream, one-half inch in depth. Press Sultana raisins (which have soaked in wine) into the cream here and there, and fill centre with sweetened and flavored whipped cream. Cover with ice cream, then with a round of buttered paper and the tin cover, pack in salt and ice for three hours. Serve with Claret or Currant Sauce. — Boil one-half cup of sugar with one-fourth cup of water until slightly thickened ; when cold add one- half cup of claret or currant juice. 231 Index. INDEX Many subjects included in the Index will not be found under a recipe by that name. But these materials may be prepared after the method or be used in the combina- tion on the page designated. Or, the word may be only another name for the same formula. Almonds, 82. with Peaches, 213. in Salad, 202—208. Anchovy Canapes, 85. Appetizers, 81 — 90. Fruit, 93—99. Apples, 98. in Salad, 204. Apple Sauce, 190. Apricots, 95. in Frozen Fruit, 226. in Salad, 201. Artichokes. French, 176. in Salad, 202. Artichoke Soup, 118. Asparagus. Cream of, 117. in Salad, 202. on Toast, 156. Soup, 117. Aspic Jelly, 168. Baking Powder Biscuit, 61 233 Bananas. Baked, 98, 215. in Frozen Fruit, 226. Saut6d, 175. in Salad, 201. Bavarian Cream. Fruit, 213. Bean Salad, 201, 203. Bean Soup. Dried, 117. Green, 118. Beans. Lima, 117. Sieva, 179. String, 177. Beef. Fillet of, 173. Beefsteak, 163, 173. Beet Soup, 117. Beets. Buttered, 178. Creamed, 178. Birds. Eeed, 193. Biscuit. Baking Powder, 61. for Fricassees, 61. Tortoni, 220. Index Bisque. Clam, 107. Crab, 107. Pisli, 106. Lobster, 106. Oyster, 109. Salmon, 107. Tomato, 119. Bonbons, 83, Bouillon, 105. Iced, 108. Bread, 58. " Brown, 59. Bread. Pulled, 58. Broth, Scotch, 11. Brussels Sprouts, 181. Butter Pish, 127. Butter. Lemon, 314. Cabbage. Bed, 180. Salad, 204. Cake. Angel, 66. Pound, 67. Sponge, 65. Canapes. Anchovy, 85. Cavaire, 86. Cheese, 87. Clam, 87. Crab, 87. Lobster, 88. Sardine, 88. Canteloups, 96. Caramel Custard, 209. Ice Cream, 228. Sauce, 209. 234 Carrots. Creamed, 179. Cream of, 118. Glazed, 179. Casserole of Pigeons, 186. Cauliflower. Cream of, 121. au Gratin, 159. Salad, 203. Soup, 121. Caviare Canapes, 86. Celery, 81. Cream of, 110, 119. Salad, 204. Soup, 110. Charlotte Eusse, 212. Cheese Canapes, 89. Croquettes, 155. Salad, 198. Souffle, 160. Straws, 62. Wafers, 62. Cherries, 95. Maraschino, 22. in Salad, 201. Cherry Soup, 108. Chestnut Cream, 215. Chestnuts, 82. Cream of, 117. in Ice Cream, 230. in Salad, 197, 204. Chicken. Broiled, 191. Chaudfroid, 167. Croquettes, 187. Fillets Devilled, 185. Gumbo, 104. Index Chicken. Jellied, 166. Liver Croustade, 90. Mousselines, 189. Salad, 198. Soup, with Celery, 110. Soup, with Okra, 104. Timbales, 188. Chives in Salad, 196. Chocolate, 68. Ice Cream, 237. Sauce^hot, 229. Chops. Lamb, 163. Mutton, 163. Chowder. Clam, 108. Pish, 108. Clam. Bisque, 107. Canapes, 87. Chowder, 108. Cocktail, 84. Prappe, 226. Fritters, 140. Soup, 107. Clams. Little Neck, 84. Cocktail. Clam, 84. Oyster, 83. Codfish. Small Whole Fresh, 127. Salt, 132. Balls. Salt, 132. Hash. Salt, 132. CoflEee, 69. Confections, 82. Consomme, 104. Com. Creamof Canned,118. 235 Com. Cream of Green, 118. Fritters, 158. Soup. Hulled, 117. Meal Mush, 62. Fried, 62. Soup, 117. Com on the Cob. Sweet, 158. Crab. Bisque, 107. Canapes, 87. Salad, 189. Soup, 106. Terrapin, 142. Crabs. Soft Shell, 140. Cranberry Sauce, 181. Cream. Bavarian Fruit, 213. Chestnut, 215. Souffle, 210. Soups, 115—122. Creme de Menthe, 219. Croquettes. Cheese, 155. Chicken, 187. Fish, 131. Potato, 148. Croustade, 59. Croustade of Chicken Livers, 90. Crolitons, 59. Cucumber Salad, 175, 199. Sauce, 75, 175. Shells, 126. Soup, 117. Index Cucumbers, 176. Currants, 95. Curried Eggs, 160. Custard. Caramel, 209. Ice Cream. Plain, 327, Ice Cream. Eich, 238. Cutlets. Fish, 131. Veal, 164. Desserts, 209—215. Desserts. Frozen, 219 — 231. Devilled Fillets Chicken, 185. Game, 185. Turkey, 185. Dressing. Cooked Salad, 74. French, 75. Horseradish, 75, Mayonnaise, 76. Whipped Cream, 74. Ducklings. Eoast, 190. Duck. Salmi of, 185. Eclairs, 68. Egg Salad, 199. Toast, 215. Eggs. Curried, 160, Entries, 155—160. Espagnole Sauce, 72. Fanchonnettes, 63, 214. Figs in Salad, 197. Stewed, 209. 236 Filberts, 82. FiMe Powder, 154. Fillet of Beef, 170. Fillets of Bass, 128. Chicken, 185. Devilled, 185. Flounder, 128. Game, 185. Halibut, 128, 133. Tongue, Sauted, 171. Turkey, 185. Finnan Haddie, 133. Fish Balls, 132, Bisque, 106. en Coquille, 126, Creamed, 126. Croquettes, 131. Cutlets, 131. Fried, 127. Hash, 132. Left Over, 126, 131. Fish EoU, 132. Salt, 132. Fish Scalloped, 126, Fish, 123—133. Bass, 129. Bluefish, 127. Butterfish, 127. Chowder, 108. Codfish. Salt, 132. Codfish. Small Fresh, 127. Finnan Haddie, 133. Flounder, 128. Index Fish. Haddock, 126, 131. Halibut, 1S5, 129, 133. Herring, 127. Mackerel, 127. Panfish, 127. Perch, 127. Salmon, 129, 130, 131. Scallops, 141. Scup, 127, Shad, 127, 128. Smelts, 130. Trout, 127. Whitefish, 127. Flounder. Fillets of, 128. Fowl in Consomme, 104. Frappe. Clam, 226. Lemon, 225. Melon, 225. Orange, 225. Pineapple, 225. Fritters. Clam, 140. Com, 158. Frogs' Legs, 139. Frosting. Boiled, 67. Fruit Appetizers, 93 — 99. Baked, 98. , Bavarian Cream, 213. Frozen Summer, 226. Frozen Winter, 226. Punch, 70. Salad, 94. Salpicon, 96. Soups. Cold, 108. 337 Game, 185, 193. Birds. Eeed, 193. Ducklings, 190. Grouse, 192. Partridge, 192. Pigeons, 186. Quail, 189. Venison, 191. Ginger Parfait, 22. Glaze, 73. Gooseberries, 108. Grape Fruit. Plain, 93- 94. Salad, 197. Grapes. Native, 98. Malaga, 98. Grouse, 192. Gumbo. Chicken, 104. Haddock, 106, 126, 131. Halibut. Broiled, 129. Timbales, 125. Turbans, 133. Herring, 127. Hors d'euvres. (See Appetizers.) Horseradish Dressing, 75. Hulled Corn Soup, 118. Ice Cream. Almond, 231. Biscuit Tortoni, 220. Bombs, 220. Caramel, 228. Chocolate, 228. Custard. Plain, 227. Index Ice Cream. Custard, Bich, 328. Fancy, 220. French, 228. Fruit, 226. Frozen Pudding, 330. Ginger, 222. Harlequin, 221. Maple, 222. Maraschino, 222. Moulded, 224. Neapolitan, 228. Nesselrode Pudding, 230. Parfait. White, 222. Yellow, 222. Peach, 228. Philadelphia, 231. Pineapple, 222. Pistachio, 231. Strawberry Mousse, 234. Strawberry, Plain, 234. Sultana Eoll, 231. Vanilla, 228. Ices. Water, 219. Frappes, 225. Punches, 225. Sherbets, 221. Jellied Mayonnaise, 78. Jelly. Aspic, 78. Orange, 212. Lamb Chops, 163. Crown of, 165. Jellied, 166. 238 Left Over Soup, 110. Lemonade, 70. Lemon Butter, 214. Ice, 219. Lentil Soup, 117. Lettuce Salad, 197. Soup, 119. Lobster Bisque, 106. Canapes, 88. Cream of, 106. Newburg, 139. Salad, 198. Soup, 106. a la Tarragona, 139. Macedoine of Vegetables, 201. Maple Parfait, 222. Sauce, 223. Mayonnaise, 76. Meat, 163—173. Beefsteak, 163. Beef Tenderloin, 173. Lamb Chops, 163. Lamb, Crown of, 165. Lamb, Jellied, 166. Mutton, 163. au Gratin, 164. Sweetbreads, 165. Tongue in Aspic, 168. Tongue FiUets, 167, 171. Veal Birds, 166. Veal Cutlets, Breaded, 164. Index Meat. Veal Jellied, 166. Melon Frappe, 325. Salad, 203. Melons, 96. Milk Sherbet, 219. Mint Ice, 219. Mousse. Strawberry, 224. Mousselines Chicken, 189. Mush. Pried Com Meal, 62. Mushrooms, Broiled, 159. Cream of, 121. Nasturtiums in Salad, 202. Neapolitan Ice Cream, 228. Nuts. In Salad, 197, 198, 201, 204. Salted, 82. in Soup, 117. Okra. Canned, 179. Soup, or Gumbo, 104. Olives, 82. Omelette. Orange, 312. Spanish, 157. Sweet, 212. Onions in Salad, 200, 201. Cream of, 120. Orange Jelly, 313. Omelet, 213. Sherbet, 331, Oranges, 93. in Salad, 197, 201. in Game Sauce, 190. 239 Oyster Bisque, 109. Cocktail, 83. Patties, 143. Volauvept, 143. Oysters en Coquille, 137. Creamed, 137. in Croustade, 143. Pried, 137. in Half Shell, 85. Eaw, 89. Sauted, 138. Scalloped, 141. Parfait. Pruit, 223. Ginger, 333. Maple, 232. Maraschino, 222. Pineapple, 232. White, 232. Yellow, 232. Partridge, 192. Paste. Plain, 63. Puff, 64. Patties, 64. Peach Ice Cream, 228. Sherbet, 221, Peaches, 97. in Salad, 201. with Whipped Cream, 213. Peanut Soup, 117. Peanuts in Salad, 197, 304. Salted, 82, Index Pea Soup, Canned, 118. Dried, 117. Green, 118. Peas. Canned, 177, Green, 177. Pecans in Salad, 197, 204. Peppers. Green Sweet, 155. Cups of, 131. Stuffed, 131, 155. Perch, 127. Pigeons en Casserole, 186. Pimolas, 82. Pineapple Frappe, 225. Omelet, 212. Parfait, 222. in Salad, 201. Pineapples, 95. Pistachio Nuts in Ice Cream, 231. Salad, 197. Plums, 97. Potato Balls, 149. Croquettes, 148. Eoses, 147. Salad, 199. Soup, 118. Potatoes. Baked, 150, Boiled, 149. Creamed, 150. Fried, 147. au Gratin, 151. Hashed Brown, 148. Lyonnaise, 152. Mashed, 147. 340 Potatoes. Parisienne, 149. Stuffed, 150. Sweet, 151. Baked, 151. Glazed, 151. Poidtry and Game, 185 — 193. Prune Souffle, 209. Pudding. Frozen, 230. Nesselrode, 230. Sponge, 210. Punch. Frozen, 225. Fruit, 219, 221, 225. Bum, 225. Quail on Toast, 189. Quinces. Baked, 98. Eadishes, 81. in Salad, 202. Easpherries, 95. Eeed Birds, 193. Ehubarb, 99, Eice, 176. with Curried Eggs, 160. EoUs, 58. Luncheon, 60. Eoux, 72. Eum Sauce, 230. Salads, 197—205. Apple, 204. Asparagus Tips, 202. Banana, 201. Index Salads. Bean, 203. Cabbage, 204. Carrot, 201. Cauliflower, 203. Celery, 204. Cheese, 198. Chestnut, 197, 204. Chicken, 198. Chive, 198. Crab, 198. Cucumber, 175, 199. Egg, 199. Fish, 130. Fruit. Summer, 200, Winter, 200. Grape Fruit, 197. Lettuce, 197. Lobster, 198. Macedoine, 197, 201. Melon, 203. Nasturtium, 202. Nuts, 198, 204. Orange, 197, 201. Pecan, 198. Potato, 199. Salmon, 130, 175. Sweetbread, 199. Tomato, 202. Tomato Jelly, 204. Vegetable. Mixed, 201. Walnut, 204. Salmi, 185. Salmon. Bisque, 107. Salmon. Boiled, 129. Broiled, 130. Canned, 107, 131. in Pepper Cases, 131. Salad, 130, 175. Soup, 107. Salpicon. Fruit, 96. Game, 169. Meat, 169. Poultry, 169. Salsify. Fried, 180. Sauted, 180. Cream of, 122. Sandwiches, 60. Sardine Canapes, 88. Sauces. Bearnaise, 170. Blanc, 71. Bread, 192. Brown, 72. Caramel, 210. Chaufroid, 167. Chocolate. Hot, 229. Claret for Game, 191. Claret for lee Cream, 231. Cranberry, 181. Cream, 71, 192. Cream and Lemon, 166. Creamy, 211. for Croquettes, 72. Cucumber, 75, 175. Currant, 231. Espagnole, 72. HoUandaise, 125. 341 Index Sauces. Horseradish, 163. Maitre d'Hotel, 191. Maple, 223. Eum, 230. Strawberry, 324. Tartare, 77. Tomato, 73. Veloute, 72. White, 71. Scallops, 141. Scotch Broth, 111. Scup, 127. Shad. Boiled, 127. Planked, 128. Koe, 138. Sherbet. Milk, 219. Orange, 221. Peach, 221. Shortcake. Strawberry, 211. Shrimps in Gumbo, 104. Smelts. Stuffed, 130. Sorrel Soup, 120. Souffle. Cheese, 160. Cream, 210. Prune, 209. Soups, 103—122. Artichoke, 118. Asparagus Tips, 117. Bean, Dried, 117. Green, 118. Lima, 117. String, 119. Beet, 117. 242 Soups. Bouillon, 105, 108. Carrot, 118. Cauliflower, 121. Celery, 110, 119. Cheese, 121. Chestnut, 117. Chicken, 104, 110. Clam, 107. Cold, 108. Consomme, 103. Com, Canned, 118. Green, 118. Hulled, 117. Meal, 117. Crab, 106. Fish, 106. Fruit, 108. Game, 110. Gumbo, 104. Left Over, 110. Lentil, 117. Lettuce, 119. Lobster, 106. Mushroom, 121. Nut, 117. Onion, 120. Oyster, 109. Pea, Canned, 118. Dried, 117. Green, 118. Peanut, 117. Pepper, Green, 118. Potato, 118. Index Soups. Poultry, 110. Salmon, Canned, 107. Fresh, 106. Salsify, 122. Scotcli Broth, 111. Sorrel, 120. Spinach, 119. Squash, 117. Succotash, 118. Sweetbread, 106. Tomato, Canned, 107, 119. Fresh, 117. Turnip, 119. Veal, 106. Walnut, 117. Soups with Cream or Milk, 115—122. Soups with Stock, 103—111. Spaghetti, 150. Spinach, Moulded, 155. Soup, 119. Sponge Pudding, 310. Squabs, 187. Squash, Hubbard, 175. Summer, 1.78. Strawberries, 94. in Salad, 201. Strawberry Ice Cream, 224. Mousse, 224. Sauce, 224. Shortcake, 211. Succotash, 179. Soup, 118. 'Sultana Roll, 231. Sweetbreads, Boiled, 165. Broiled, 166. Creamed, 169. Chaudfroid, 167. in Salad, 199. in Soup, 106. Sweet Potato Cases, 193. Sweet Potatoes, Baked, 151. Glazed, 161. Table of Equivalents, 54. Measures, 53. Proportions, 52. Tartletts, 63, 214, Terrapin, Crab, 142, Timbales, Chicken, 188. Halibut, 125. Swedish, 169. Toast. Egg, 215. Tomato Cups, 202, 204. Jelly, 204. Salad, 202. Sauce, 73. Soup with Cream, 119. Stock, 107. Tomatoes. Broiled, 158. Egg or Yellow, 202, . Tongue Fillets. Chaud- froid, 167. Sauted, 171. in Aspic Jelly, 168. Trout, 127, Turbans. Halibut, 133. 243 Index Turflip. Creamed, 180. Mashed, 180. Soup, 119. Vanilla lee Cream, 238. Vanilla Wafers with Peaches, 328. Veal Birds, 166. Veal. Birds, 166. Breaded, 164. Chops, 164, Cutlets, 164. Jellied, 166. EoUs, 166. Soup, 106. Vegetables, 175—181. Artichokes, 176. Asparagus, 156. Beans. Lima, 179. Sieva, 179. String, 177. Beets, 178. Brussels Sprouts, 181. Vegetables. Cabbage. Eed, 180. Carrots, 179. Celery, 81. Cucumbers, 175. Okra, 179. Peas. Canned Green, 177. Fresh Green, 177. Eice, 176. Salsify, 180. Squash. Summer, 178. Hubbard, 175. Turnip, 180. Venison, 191. Vinegar. Claret, 75. Tarragon, 75. Vol-au-vent, 64. Wafers. Cheese, 63. Walnuts, 83. Walnut Soup, 117. Watercress Soup, 119. [Watermelon, 96. S44