mi f^ftf/jjii CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE WORDSWORTH COLLECTION FOUNDED BY CYNTHIA MORGAN ST. JOHN THE GIFT OF VICTOR EMANUEL OF THE CLASS OF I919 DESCEIPTIVE GUIDE TO ' ' ' ' THE ENGLISH LAKES, AND ADJACENT MOUNTAINS: "WITH NOTICES OF OF THE CISTRICr _,^ BY JONATHAN OTLEY. EIGHTH EDITION. TO WHICH IS ADDED, AN EXCURSION THROUGH LONSDALE TO THE CAVES. KESWICK : PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR; BY SIMPKIN, MARSHALL & CO., STATIONERS' COURT, LONDON AND JOHN FOSTER, KXRKBY LONSDALE. 1849. 1 ) D- PREFACE. Guides and Tours to the Lakes have formerly been pre- sented to the Public, with the single recommendation of conducting the stranger to some chosen spot, where, in the the opinion of the writer, the scenery might be viewed to the best advantage. It is admitted that the gratification of the eye is a leading consideration with many of those who make the Tour of the Lakes ; but it is not so with all. The reflecting mind will feel more satisfaction in acquiring some knowledge of the constitution, the natural history and productions of the region which he visits. As a resident among the objects he attempts to describe, the Author of this Manual has possessed many opportunities of making observations, which would escape the notice of the transient visitor — the compiler from the works of others — or even of one who undertook a tour for the especial purpose of making a book. Availing himself of these advantages, and a little experi- ence in survejdng, he constructed a Map of the District, divested of many errors which had been copied into former maps, and containing some particulars not to be found in any other. This map has been re-engraved and corrected up to the present time, with the addition of Railways and other important matters ; it is accompanied with such de- scriptions, directions, and remarks, as have been judged likely to be serviceable to the Tourist ', in conducting him through the most eligible paths for viewing the varied see- nery, and at the same time conveying some information on the structure and phenomena of these interesting regions. The Lakes have been so often and so copiously dilated upon, that a concise description of them is all that has been thought necessary ; but the observations upon the different Mountains are extended to some length, as they have been generally very inadequately and often very inaccurately described. The Pubhc have so far appreciated his labours as to en- able him to dispose of seven editions, every one of which has been carefully revised, and interspersed with additional matter ; but the original design has never been departed from — to supply as much information as possible, without making the book either cumbrous or expensive. In a former edition a new feature was introduced in the form of sketches, by the Author's own unpractised hand, of the most remarkable Ranges of Mountains surrounding the different Lakes, as they appear from select stations on the roads, or places easy of access. This has been found a more intelligible mode of communicating their names than any verbal description, more easily remembered, and to obviate the necessity of many questions, often wished to be put when no one is at hand to answer. This jiepartment has since been considerably extended, and the execution intrusted to experienced artists ; and has latterly been con- sidered so necessary an adjunct to a work of this kind, that it has been unreservedly imitated in rival publications. To this edition has been superadded an Excursion through the Vale of Lune, and to the Caves of the West-Riding of Yorkshire. CONTENTS. The Lakes 1 Windermere 2 View from Bowness 5 View from the road between Troutbeck Bridge and Bowness 7 Esthwaite Water 6 Grasmere Water .■ 7 Rydal Water 7 View from Red Bank Head 7 Thirlmere 8 Coniston Water 9 View from near Bank Ground 9 Derwent Lake 10 View from Crow Park 10 UUswater 13 View from Pooley Bridge 13 View of Patter dale from Place Fell 14 Brothers Water 15 Hawes Water 16 View from Measand Beck 16 Bassenthwaite Lake 17 Buttermere Lake 17 Crummock Lake 18 View from near Lowes Water Church 18 Lowes Water 19 Ennerdale Lake 20 View from between Kirkland and Salter .... 20 Wast Water 21 View from Nether Wasdale 22 The Tarns 25 Waterfalls 32 Rivers 37 vi contents. Mountains 39 Skiddaw 40 Sketch of Skiddaw and Saddleback. ....... 40 Helvellyn 47 Group of Mountains from Helvellyn 47 Scawfell and Pikes 52 Saddleback 56 Gable— Pillar— Bowfell 57 Grasmoor — Grisedale Pike — Carrock Fell 58 Black Comb— Coniston Fell 59 Fairfield 60 Langdale Pikes — High Street 61 Wansfell Pike— Whiteless Pike 62 ' Loughrigg Fell 63 Bearings and Heights op Mountains 64 Crags 66 Antiquities — Druidical Circles 67 King Arthur's Round Table 68 Mayburgh — Barnscar — Beacons — Hardknot Castle 69 Castles — Furness Abbey — Calder Abbey — Shap Abbey 70 Explanation op Terms 72 Season for Visiting the Lakes 75 General Directions and Excursions — Stages in the District 7t Carlisle to Keswick 78 Whitehaven to the Lakes 79 Lancaster 80 Lancaster to Ulverston 82 Ulverston 84 Ulverston to Furness Abbey and Coniston 85 Coniston to Ambleside 85 Milnthorp to Kendal 86 Kendal 86 Kendal to Hawes Water 87 contents. vi! General Directions and Excursions — Kendal to Shap Wells 88 Kendal to Bowness and Ambleside 89 Bowness 90 Bowness to Esthwaite Water and Coniston .... 91 Low Wood Inn 92 Ambleside 93 Ambleside to Langdale 94 Ambleside to Loughrigg Fell, &c 97 Ambleside to Ullswater 98 Ambleside to Eskdale and Wasdale 99 Ambleside to Keswick 101 Penrith 104 Penrith to Ullswater 104 Pooley Bridge Inn to Patterdale 104 Penrith to Hawes Water 105 Cockermouth to the Lakes 107 Keswick 107 Round Derwent Lake 115 To Borrowdale by Watendlath 117 Through Borrowdale to Buttermere 118 Drive to Scale Hill and Buttermere 121 Keswick to Wast Water and Calder Bridge. ... 122 Return from Calder to Keswick 125 Drive round Bassenthwaite Lake 128 Keswick to Ullswater 130 Appendix 131 Botanical Notices 133 Geology OF THE District 144 Meteorology 158 Floating Island in Derwent Lake 162 Black-Lead Mine in Borrowdale 165 Lonsdale AND THE Caves ■• 169 Explanation of the Map viii EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. The Boundaries of Coun- I TIES, where not formed by >are marked by small dots. streatas J Turnpike Roads by strong double lines. Other Carriage Roads. ... by smaller double lines. Inferior Carriage Roads, by a line on one side. ^iToTds^^"^^^^' °^ Bridle J j^ ^^^j^^ ^^^^^ oflongish dots. Foot Paths by single lines of the same. Names of Market Towns, in Roman Capitals. Parishes and Townships, in Italic Capitals. Mountains and Rivers . . in small Roman. Churches and Chapels . . are denoted by small crosses. ^ Rous Js ^''''' ^""^ ^''^''''' } ^^ «" "P'"" '^'"''''• Waterfalls j ^^ « few strokes on each s i of the stream. Railways, thus : N i i,i i i i i i i ii I I I I LLL ' I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I LOUGHRIGG TARN, WITH LANGDALE PIKES. THE LAKES. The Mountainous District in which the EngHsh Lakes are situated, extends into three counties, Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, which form their junc- tion at a point denoted by three shire stones, upon the mountain Wrynose, near the road side. Lancashire is separated from Cumberland by the river Duddon ; from Westmorland by the stream running through Little Langdale, and by Elterwater and Windermere, until south of Storrs Hall ; after which the river Winster forms the boundary till it enters the sands near Methop. Westmorland is parted from Cumberland by the moun- B a THE LAKES. tain ridge leading over Bowfell to DunmaU Raise, and from thence over the top of Helvellyn; then by the stream of Glencoin to UUswater, and by the river Eamont till it enters the Eden. Windermere Lake is said to belong to Westmorland, at least its islands are claimed by that county, although the whole of its western and part of its eastern shores belong to Lanca- shire. Coniston and Esthwaite Lakes, with Blelham tarn and the tarns of Coniston, are whoUy in Lancashire. Grasmere, Rydal, and Hawes Water, with several tarns, lie in Westmorland. The head of UUswater is in West- morland, but below Glencoin it constitutes the boundary between that county and Cumberland. Derwent, Bas- senthwaite, Buttermere, Ennerdale, and Wastwater, are in Cumberland. Before this country became so much the resort of strangers, the word Lake was Httle known to the native inhabitants ; but to the ancient termination mere. Water was usually superadded, as Windermere Water, Gras- mere Water. WINDERMERE Having given its name to the adjoining parish, it has been thought necessary, in speaking of the lake itself, to add the word water, or lake, by way of distinction. It is the largest of the English Lakes, being upwards of ten miles in length, measured upon the water ; by the road on its banks it is considerably more. Its greatest breadth is about a mile, and depth nearly forty fathoms. Several promontories push into the lake from each side; and between two of these, near the middle of its i 1 .High Raise .Ullskarth, Wythburn Head ;/^ .Stile .Loughrigg Fell (line 2) .[Raise Gap] .Gilbert Scar (line 2) .Nab Scar .Great Rigg • Fairfield . [Rydal Park] ''Id .Wansfell Pike ...Red Screes, near Kirk- stone •••Woundale Head Troutbeck Hundreds (1,2) ...Cawdale Moor ...Threshthwaite Mouth ...High Street ...Froswick ...111 Bell ...Yoak ...Applethwaite Fell WINDERMERE. 6 length, is a public ferry, on the road from Kendal to Hawkshead. The numerous islands with which it is enriched, are chiefly grouped near the middle of the lake ; admitting ample scope for the exercise of sailing. The principal, called Belle- Isle — in compliment to the late Mrs. Curwen, who purchased it into the family — is a beau- tiful plot of thirty acres, surmounted by a stately man- sion, and encircled by a gravel walk of nearly two miles, which strangers, in quest of the variegated surrounding scenery, are freely permitted to perambulate. Besides this, are Crow- Holm, two Lily of the Valley-Holms, Thompson's -Holm, House- Holm, Hen- Holm, Lady- Holm, and Rough-Holm; and to the south of the Ferry, Berkshire-Island, Ling-Holm, Grass-Holm, Silver-Holm, and Blake- Holm. Windermere is stocked with a variety of fish, of which char are the most esteemed. Char, being taken by nets in the winter months, are potted, and sent to different parts of the kingdom. The principal feeders of the lake are the Rothay, having its source in Grasmere; and the Brathay, issuing from Langdale. These two rivers unite their streams about half a mUe before entering the lake; and a remarkable circumstance is, that the trout and char, both leaving the lake about the same time, to deposit their spawn, separate themselves into the two different rivers; the char making choice of the Brathay, and the trout taking to the Rothay. This lake is situated in a country finely diversified by sloping hills, woods, and cultivated grounds, with lofty mountains in the distance. Its banks are adorned with bmldings, which combine better with the scenery of this, than they would with that of the more northern lakes. WINDERMERE, Storrs-Hall, late the mansion of Colonel Bolton, is beautifully situated upon a low promontory, and Ray- rigg upon a bay of the lake. Calgarth-Park, once the residence of the late Bishop (Watson) of LlandafF, has a lowly, and EUeray, for some time the abode of Professor Wilson, an elevated situation. The modern erection called Wray- Castle is a prominent feature; and the vUlas of Brathay, Croft-Lodge, and Wandlass-Howe are con- spicuous objects near the head of the water. The Station, belonging to Mr. Curwen, is a building erected upon a rocky eminence above the Ferry house. The path leading to it is decorated with native and exotic trees and shrubs ; the upper story commands extensive views of the lake and surrounding scenery : and the windows, being partly of stained glass, give a good representation of the manner in which the land- scape would be affected in different seasons. The view towards the north has every essential for a beautiful landscape : a bold foreground, a fine sheet of water, graced with islands : the village of Bowness, the man- sions placed at various points, the rich woods, and distant mountains, all contribute to enrich the scene. The southern half of the lake is narrower; but its shores are beautifully broken and wooded. Some may choose to commence their survey of Win- dermere at Newby Bridge, and observe the scenery unfolding itself as they advance. Others will be more gratified by the prospect bursting upon them at once, in fuU expansion, as it does from a more elevated approach. All the way, from two miles south of Bowness, to the head of the lake, the views are excellent; and every rising ground affords something new in the combination. Rayrigg-Bank has the most complete view of the whole <^ ...Old Man — Coniston Fell # .The Carrs ..Wetherlam . [ Wrynose Gap] ■^ ..Pike of Bliscow (line 2) ..Crinkle Crags ..Scawfell Pike ..Bowfell ..Great End ..Lingmoor (line 2) •Hindside •Great Gable ,.Pike of Stickle .Harrison Stickle ..Paveyark .High Raise .Silverhow (line 2) .Hammerscar (line 2) WINDERMERE. 5 lake, from north to south ; but a station about a mile from Low Wood Inn, on the highest part of the road towards Troutbeck, being more elevated, gives the most distinct view of all the islands, and the spaces between them. About Troutbeck Bridge, the range of moun- tains, extending from Coniston Old Man to Langdale Pikes, appears to great advantage : the Pikes, on Scaw- feU, (the highest land in England,) being seen on the left of Bowfell ; and, between it and Langdale Pikes, stand Great End and Gable, as if guarding the pass at Sty- Head. From a certain part of the lake the summit of HelveUyn can just be seen, beyond the fells of Gras- mere and Rydal. It may also be seen from the top of BrantfeU, and from Post-Knot below. A peep at Skiddaw is obtained at the junction of the Cartmel and Milnthorpe roads, a mile and a half south of Bowness. A walk, or a ride, along the sequestered road from the Ferry towards Ambleside, will be found agreeable to the contemplative mind ; and during a voyage on the northern part of the lake — without which no tour can be called complete — a variety of both near and distant scenes are presented to the view in delightful succession. As the boat proceeds from the landing place at Low Wood, a person, previously acquainted with the distant mountains, will feel a pleasure in observing how the highest Pike on Scawfell seems to march forth from be- hind BowfeU, and the Gable from behind Langdale Pikes. Bowness is an irregularly built but very neat vdlage, on the banks of the lake ; and there are several genteel residences in the neighbourhood. The Windermere Hotel is a stately erection at the terminus of the Kendal and Windermere Railway, about a mUe and a half from Bowness ; Low Wood Inn stands sweetly at the edge of B 2 WINDERMERE. the water ; and Ambleside is at a convenient distance for making excursions, either upon the lake or to the adjacent vaUies and mountains. At Newby Bridge, on the foot of the lake, is an ex- cellent inn, where boats, conveyances, and post-horses may be had ; the Ferry Inn, on the Lancashire side, is provided with similar conveniences; and the inns at Bowness, Low Wood, and Ambleside are spacious, and furnished with every requisite accommodation. ESTHWAITE WATER Is a small placid lake, nearly two mUes in length, and distinguished by a fine swelling peninsula, which reaches far into the water from the western side. It is situated near the ancient little town of Hawkshead, in a beautiful open valley, which is crowned with gentle eminences, and decorated with an agreeable composition of houses, fields, and trees. On a pond called Priest Pot, near the head of this lake, there is a Floating Island, 24 yards in length, and' five or six in breadth, supporting several alder and wiUow trees of considerable size. Differing from the one in Derwent lake, which rises occasionally from the bottom, this remains always upon the surface, generally resting against the shore ; ' but, when the water is high, it is sometimes moved from side to side by a change of wind; and, by such means, has undoubtedly been torn from the bank at some remote period. A reverend vicar, troUing in Esthwaite Water, seven days in May, 1842, caught the unprecedented number of 130 pike, averaging in weight about 2lbs each. • Hammer Scar . Silver How >^1 .UUskarlh, Wythbum Head k^\^ w Y SI 4^: .Helm Crag (line 2) •Stile . Littledale Pike, Skiddaw . [Raise Gap] •Calva.in Callbeck Fells .Part of Helvellyn .Seat Sandal .[Grisedale Hause (1.2)] ,. Great Rigg, Fairfield ,." Green-head Ghyll" Words. ..Forest Side Fell i^ ^ni & ..Nab Scar . Scandale Fell .[Rydal Park (line 2)] .Yoak, near Kentmere .Loughrigg Fell ( 7 ) GRASMERE LAKE Is not large, but well formed ; and placed near the con- fines of a cultivated valley, vi^hicli, with the parish, takes the name of Grasmere. The island, containing about four acres of verdant pasture, forms a striking contrast to the massively wooded islands on some of the neigh- bouring lakes. It rises boldly from the water, in a fine swelling form; and its smooth green surface, when spotted with cattle grazing, has a beautiful appearance. Most of the lakes, in order to be seen to advantage, require the progress to be made from the foot towards the head of the lake; but Grasmere, being completely encircled by mountains, is an exception to the general rule. The view from Dunmail Raise was much admired by Mr. Gray; others have spoken highly of that from Townend; and Mr. West chose his station on Dear- bought hill, at the head of Red Bank, on the opposite side. In short, from whatever point the approach to Grasmere is made, the prospect is always pleasing. There are two good houses for the accommodation of travellers: the Red Lion, supplying post horses and jaunting cars, is near the Church ; and the Swan on the turnpike road. A new hotel, called HoUins, is recently opened. RYDAL WATER Is of smaller dimensions, and formed in a more contracted part of the vaUey; it receives the river flowing from Grasmere lake after a course of about half a mUe. It is ornamented by two picturesque islands, on one of which the herons build their nests in the trees; and it is O RYDAL WATER. bordered by meadows and woody grounds, surmounted on one side by the precipitous rocks of Nab Scar, and on the other by the steeps of Loughrigg Fell. The fish in Grasmere and Rydal Waters are pike, perch, (provincially called bass,) and eels, with a few trout. THIRLMERE — Commonly called Leathes' Water, from the family to whose estate it belongs, and sometimes Wythburn Water, from the valley in which it is partly situated — lies at the foot of "the mighty Helvellyn;" upon the highest level of any of the lakes, being nearly 500 feet above the sea; it is upwards of two miles and a half in length, and intersected by several rocky promontories; it is divided into an upper and lower lake, between which a picturesque wooden bridge leads to Armboth House. The depth of this lake, which has been reported to be very great, has not been found to exceed eighteen fathoms, and it is opposite a rock on the road side called Clark's Leap. A wooded island, of half an acre, lies near the shore, on the lower or northern part of the lake. Travellers are commonly satisfied with a sight of this lake from the road; but those who have leisure may obtain better views of the lower and finer part of the lake, from different stations in the grounds near Dalehead House; and the upper part of the lake, with its mountains, is best seen by those who, in travelling southwards, turn off near the fourth mile- stone from Keswick, and pass the farm-house at Smaithwaite, and along the western side of the water, by Armboth House, to the foot-bridge. The most perfect view of the whole lake is from a rocky eminence at a little distance from its northern end. .Walney Scar .Brown Pike .Prism .Tilberthwaite Fell .Yewdale Crags ..Yewdale ..Raven Crag ..Holm Fell ( 9 ) CONISTON WATER, Called in some old books Thttrston Water, is a lake of considerable magnitude, being six miles in length ; but wanting in that agreeable flexure of shores so conducive to the beauty of a lake. Near its foot, however, are some finely wooded, rocky promontories ; which, from certain points, add greatly to the prospect. It has two small islands, but they are placed too near the shore to contribute much to its importance. As the principal mountains lie on the western side and at its head, the best views are in consequence obtained in a progress from its foot, on the eastern side, or from a boat on its surface ; but those who have leisure may be gratified by the variety afi'orded in an excursion quite round the lake. Its greatest depth is twenty- seven fathoms. It is well supplied with trout and char; the latter are said to be better here than in any other lake; they are taken by nets in winter, and it was formerly supposed they could not be tempted by any kind of bait; however, they are sometimes taken by angling, with a hook baited in a peculiar manner with a minnow. The inn, at Waterhead, is pleasantly situated on the margin of the lake, and furnishes parties with pleasure- boats, conveyances, and post-horses. Waterhead House, the property and occasional resi- dence of James Garth Marshall, Esq., M.P. for Leeds, stands delightfully on a rising ground a short distance from the inn. ( 10 ) DERWENT LAKE, Near Keswick, is of the most agreeable proportions. In breadth, it exceeds any of the neighbouring lakes, being nearly a mile and a half; although its whole length is little more than three miles. Lakes of greater length generally extend too far from that mountain scenery, which is so conducive to their importance ; but Derwent lake appears wholly surrounded; and visitors are at a loss which to admire most — the broken rocky mountains of Borrowdale on the one hand, or the smooth flowing lines of Newlands on the other; while the majestic Skiddaw closes up the view to the north. The islands are of a more proportionate size, and disposed at better distances, than those in any of the neighbouring lakes. The largest, called Lord's Isle, contains about six acres and a half, and is covered with stately trees, forming a fine rookery. It is situated near the shore, on which account, probably, it was selected for the residence of the family of Derwentwater; but the house has long been in ruins, and nothing now remains but the foundation. This, and the smaller island called Rampsholm, formed part of the sequestrated estate of James, Earl of Derwentwater, who suffered on Tower Hill as a particeps criminis in the rebelhon of 1715. It was purchased from Greenwdch Hospital, in 1832, by the late John Marshall, jun., Esq., of Leeds. The Vicar's Isle, the property and occasional residence of H. C. Marshall, Esq., contains about six acres, beauti- fully laid out in pleasure grounds, interspersed with a variety of trees, and crowned with a house in the centre. For some years it was called Pocklington's Island, while it belonged to a gentleman of that name ; and is now, by way of pre-eminence, styled Derwent Isle. .Brand Fell (line 2) .Glaramara .Castle Cras (line 3) .[Esk Ilause] .Great End .Scawfell Pike .Gate Crag ^ si w Eld .Blea Crag .Bull Cra? .Cat Bell .Hindscarth .Skelgill Bank .Robinson .High Stile .Vale of Newlands (1. 3) . Red Pike ■Ravvling End ...Causey Pike ■••Sail ...HI Crags ...Barrow ...Swinside (line 2) .Grisedale Pike DERWENT LAKE. 11 One, nearer the middle of the lake, is called St. Her- bert's Isle, from being the residence of that holy man, who, according to the Venerable Bede, was contemporary with St. Cuthbert, and died about a. d. 687. It appears that several centuries afterwards, the anniversary of his death was, by the bishop of the diocese, enjoined to be celebrated upon this spot in religious offices. Some remains of what is said to have been his cell are stiU to be seen among the trees with which the island is covered. About 1798, a small grotto or fishing cot was built by the late Sir Wilfred Lawson, of Brayton House, to whose successor the island now belongs. There are other small islets ; as Otter Isle, situated in a bay near the head of the lake, the views from which have been much admired; a piece of rock called Tripet- holm, and two others known by the name of Lingholms. Besides these permanent islands, an occasional one is sometimes observed, called the Floating Island : being a piece of earth, which, at uncertain intervals of time, rises from the bottom to the surface of the lake ; but still adhering by its sides to the adjacent earth, is never re- moved from its place. Within the last forty years, it has emerged thirteen times ; remaining upon the surface for longer or shorter periods. In a succeeding part of this work the discussion of this subject wiU be resumed at greater length. The lands bordering the lake belong principally to three wealthy proprietors. The heirs of the late Mr. Marshall hold the Derwentwater estate on the east ; Major- General Sir John Woodford, the late Lord Wil- liam Gordon's estate on the west ; and Mr. Standish, late Stephenson, the south. An estate of J. Pockhngton Senhouse, Esq., at Barrow, also adjoins the lake, and his 12 DERWENT LAKE. house boldly overlooks it. The neat cottage of Sir John Woodford is secreted by lofty woods, on the edge of a placid bay, on the western side of the lake. Derwent lake lies 228 feet above the level of the sea; its depth does not in any part exceed fourteen fathoms : a great portion of it scarcely one fourth of that measure. It is supplied chiefly from Borrowdale, and forms a reser- voir for the water, which, in heavy rains, pours down the steep mountains on every side; by which means its surface is often raised six or seven feet ; and, in an extraordinary case, it has been known to rise a perpen- dicular height of eight feet, above its lowest water mark. At such times the meadows are overflowed, all the way between this lake and Bassenthwaite. Its surface being large in proportion to its depth, causes it to be sooner cooled dovpn to the freezing point; and it frequently affords a fine field for the skater. In January^ 1814, the ice attained the thickness of ten inches ; and once or twice since that time it has nearly reached the same dimensions. The fishery and right of navigation on the east side belong to the Derwentwater estate ; on the west, to the Earl of Egremont ; and on the south, to the freeholders of Borrowdale. The fish are trout, pike, perch, and eels. The trout, which are very good, are taken by angMng, in the months of April and May ; the pike and perch, during the whole summer. It would be superfluous to enter into a description or enumeration of the different views on this lake : many attempts have been made to describe them — but they must be seen to be duly appreciated. Parties navigating the lake may be landed to view the cascades at Barrow and Lowdore : at the latter place is a .Barton Feil ...Swarth Fell ...Stile End .Winter Cra? O GQ ...[Martindale Hause] ...Hartsop Fells ...Hallen Fell (line 2) ...Place Fell ...Stone Cross Pike ...Birk Fell "Dolly Waggon Pike ...Nether Cove Head ...Helvellyn High Man •••Catchety Cam (line 2) ...Helvellyn Low Man ...Herring Pike (line 3) ...Keppel Cove Head ...Raise ...[Greenside] ...Gowbarrow ..Dunmallet DERWENT LAKE. 13 public-house, where a cannon is kept for the echo, which on a favourable opportunity is very fine; the sound being reverberated from the rocks encompassing the valley, at intervals proportioned to their respective distances. To such as have not another opportunity of viewing the scenery of Borrowdale, it may be recommended to leave the boat at Lowdore, and to walk forward to Bow- der Stone, a distance of two mUes; where is a good prospect of the upper part of Borrowdale, with Castle Crag on the right, Eagle Crag on the left, and Great End Crag in the distance : the vOlage of Rosthwaite, shel- tered by rising hiUs and stately trees, on the verge of green meadows, filling up the middle space. ULLSWATER Ranks second in point of size, being nine miles long^ but rather wanting in breadth : yet, on account of its winding form, the disproportion is not so much observed. It has the greatest average depth of any of the lakes, being in many places from 20 to 35 fathoms. The country about its foot is rather tame; but its head is situated among some of the most majestic mountains, which are intersected by several glens or small vaUies ; and their sides embellished with a variety of native wood and rock scenery. Three rocky islets ornament the upper reach of the lake; they are called Cherry-Holm, WaU-Holm, and House-Holm; the last of which is a fine station for viewing the surrounding country. This lake abounds with trout, which are sometimes caught of very large size : char are likewise found, but not of the best quality. Large shoals of a peculiar kind 14 ULLSWATEK. of fish are met with, called here the skelly ; and great quantities of eels are taken in the river Eamont, below Pooley Bridge, as they migrate from the lake in autumn. The foot of the lake seems to be embanked by a con- glomerated mass of pebbles; the same composition forms the finely wooded hill called Dunmallet, which stands Hke a centinel to guard the pass. The "mighty Helvellyn," flanked right and left by subordinate mountains, is seen in the most favourable point of view from Pooley Bridge. The borders of the lake are ornamented with several handsome villas. Ewesmere hill commands delightful prospects up the lake; Colonel Salmond's beautiful resi- dence at Waterfoot, retires from the view; on the borders of the lake are those of Rampsbeck, Beau-Thorn, Lemon- House, and Old- Church : at a httle distance Watermil- lock; and at Hallsteads, on a fine promontory with undulating grounds, William Marshall, Esq., M.P. for East Cumberland, has an elegant house. Lyulph's Tower is a hunting box, built by the late Duke of Norfolk in his deer park ; and Airey Force may be seen by application to the keeper who resides here. Glen- coin is a farm placed in a sweet recess, where a brook divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. At the foot of Glenridding, the Pcev. H. Askew has a tasteful cottage ; and towards the foot of Grisedale, a seat of W. Marshall, Esq., stands upon the site of the ancient Patterdale Hall. The only carriage-road lies on the north-west side of the water, sometimes on a level with its surface, and commanding an unobstructed view; at other times deeply shaded in ancient woods, permitting only occa- sional glimpses of the lake ; but on the opposite side the pedestrian will be well repaid for a ramble along Place- 1-3 H— I to .Place Fell ...Cawdale Moor ...Hartsop Dod ...[Kirkstone Pass] ...Red Screes ...[Deepdale Park] ...Birks ...Dolly Waggon Pike ...[Grisedale] ...Eagle Crag ...Bleaberry Crag ...Helvellyn Pile ...Hall Bank (line 2) ...[Raise] ...[Glenridding] ...Greenside ...Herring Pike ...Glenridding Dod(l. 2) ULLSWATEE. 15 fell and Birkfell. From the slate quarry there is a grand view of the mountains, just including the highest point of Helvellyn; and from many parts of the path, and above it, the vievt^s are truly picturesque and beautiful. If the tourist aspires to more extensive prospects, they may be attained by climbing the mountain to a certain height ; where the lower extremity of the lake may be seen over the beautiful grounds of Hallsteads. This lake, like others, is most advantageously seen by commencing at its foot ; so that, whether by the road, or in a boat, the grandeur of the scenery is continually increasing as the traveller approaches the mountains ; but the views from the lake are more open, and the water itself appears more spacious, from the boat on its surface, than from any elevation above it. There is a comfortable inn at Pooley Bridge, on the foot of the lake ; and another at Patterdale, a little dis- tance from its head. They both furnish boats upon the lake : and the long- wanted medium of locomotion by land, has for some years been supphed by horses and suitable conveyances being furnished both at Pooley Bridge and Patterdale. BROTHERS WATER, — So called from the circumstance of two brothers having been drowned together, by the breaking of the ice, — is a small lake, situate in that part of Patterdale called Harts- hop, on the road leading to and from Ambleside. In the latter direction, descending from the steeps of Kirk- stone, its first appearance is always greeted with pleasure by the tourist in search of the picturesque ; who considers it the commencement of a new series of beauties. ( 16 ) HAWES WATER Is nearly three miles in length, and half a mile in breadth. It is almost divided iato two parts by the projection of a plot of cultivated land from the N. W. side. Its head is encompassed by lofty mountains, but they exhibit less variety of outline than those of Derwent and UUswater. Its eastern side is bounded by Naddle Forest, the lovs^er part completely wooded, and surmounted by the lofty Wallow Crag ; beyond which the hill side is scattered with aged thorns. The western side has more cultiva- tion, and a few farm-houses sheltered by trees. The houses, with the exception of Mr. Boustead's, at Mea- sand-beck, and Mr. Holmes', at Chapel Hdl, are mostly walled without mortar; and the deciduous trees associate well -with, the rest of the scenery. Opposite the head of the lake, Castle Crag is a prominent featvire in the land- scape. This lake is weU stocked with fish of various kinds ; but they are chiefly preserved for the table of Lowther Castle. Lying beyond the usual circuit of the lakes, and at a distance from the great roads and places of entertain- ment, Hawes Water is often omitted. But tourists, who can contrive to visit it without hurry or fatigue, will find it a sweet retired spot. There is a public-house at Mardale Green, about a imle above the head of the lake ; and a spacious inn, with one of smaller dimensions, at Bampton Grange, a distance of two miles from its foot. CZ2 ^J,)... Wallow Crag ...Naddle Forest (the lower part, which stretches into the lake, is called Gumes.) ...Harter Fell ...Riggindale (line 2) ...Bleak-How Crag (1. 4) ...Castle Crag (line 3) ...Birk Crag (line 3) ...High Street ...Whelter Crag (line 2) ...Kidsey Pike .Lad Crag .Measand End .Rnotts •Blennerhasset . [Fordendale] .[Birker Gill] ( 1^ ) BASSENTHWAITE LAKE Is of somewhat greater length than Derwent, but of less breadth, and without islands. Being further from the mountains, it is not viewed with the same interest as some other lakes. Its western side is rather too uni- formly wooded, the eastern has a greater breadth of cultivation, on which side are some fine bays and pro- montories ; but here the road recedes too far from the lake to exhibit it to advantage. However, tourists who have leisure for a ride or a drive of eighteen miles, round this lake, may obtain some pleasing views ; especially from the foot of the lake, and from some points of Wythop woods. This lake is of less depth than Der- went. Pike and perch are the principal fish : salmon pass through it, to deposit their spawn in the rivers Derwent and Greta, but are seldom met with in the lake, BUTTERMERE LAKE, Situate in the valley of that name, is nearly encompassed by superb rocky mountains. It is about a mile and a. quarter in length, scarcely half a mile in breadth, and fifteen fathoms deep. Tourists visiting Buttermere, by way of Borrowdale, pass along the side of this lake; those who travel in carr riages generally content themselves with the view of ij from a hill near the village. c 2 ( 18 ) CRUMMOCK LAKE, Connected with Buttermere by a stream along the fur- ther edge of a plot of fertile land, is nearly three mUes in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and twenty- two fathoms deep. It is situated between the two lofty and precipitous mountains of Grasmoor, on the eastern, and Melbreak, on the western side ; and, in combination with the more distant hUls, it makes a beautiful picture. The best general views of the lake are from the rocky point on the eastern side, called the Hause ; and from the road between Scale HUl and Lowes Water : and the views of the mountains, from the bosom of the lake, are excellent. On one side stands Grasmoor, with its lofty precipitous front ; on the other, Melbreak rises abruptly from the water's edge ; Whiteless Pike, Robinson, Ran- nerdale Knot, Fleetworth Pike, Honister Crag, Red Pike, High StUe, and the Haystacks, surmounted by Great Gable, all contribute to the magnificence of the scene. Both these lakes are well stocked with trout and char, the latter of which are smaller in size, but perhaps not inferior in quality, to those of Windermere or Coniston. There is a comfortable inn at Buttermere, between the two lakes, and another at Scale Hill, on the foot of Crummock; at one of which places a boat is usually taken, as well for a survey of the scenery, as being the most convenient way of seeing the noted waterfall of Scale Force, on the opposite side of the lake. .Grasmoor .Witeless Pike ..FleetworthPike ...Rannerdale Knot ...Great Gavel ■•■HayStack.s(1.2) ( 19 ) LOWES WATER, A small lake of about a mile in length, has given name to the parochial chapelry in which it is situated. Shaping its course towards Crummock, its direction is contrary to that of the neighbouring lakes, from which it differs also, in another point : they generally exhibit the most interesting mountain scenery in looking towards the head of the lake ; this, on the contrary, is more tame towards its head, while at its foot the mountains appear of bolder forms. It is not the difference between one sheet of water and another, but the endless variety of scenery with which they are associated, that gives to every lake its peculiar character. Lowes Water, viewed from the end of Melbreak, exhibits a sweet rural landscape, the cultivated slopes being ornamented with neat farm-houses and trees: but, taking the view in an opposite direction, the lake makes a middle distance to a combination of mountains scarcely to be equalled. Parties who visit Lowes Water from Scale Hill, gene- rally content themselves with a view from the place of its first presentation ; but those who approach it from the west, have the advantage of beholding it in connection with a most magnificent assemblage of mountains. On the left, Grasmoor, Whiteless Pike, Robinson, and Ran- nerdale Knot; on the right, Burnbank and Carling Knot; in front, Melbreak rises in an aspiring cone, flanked by High Stile and Red Pike on one hand, and the perpen- dicular-fronted Honister Crag on the other. ( 20 ) ENNERDALE LAKE Is about two miles and a half in length, and three quarters of a mile in breadth. It is more difficult to obtain a good sight of this than of any other lake. The best general view may be had near How Hall ; but as the principal mountain scenery, with part of the lake, is seen to advantage from the road by which tourists generally pass from Wast Water to Lowes Water and Buttermere ; few like to extend their journey two or three miles for any improvement to be made in the prospect. Pedestrians, anxious to explore the inmost recesses of the mountains, may follow the lake to its head, and after passing the sequestered farm of Gillerthwaite, continue their route four or five miles along the narrow dale, by the transparent stream of the Lisa, which is fed by the crystal springs issuing from the side of the mountain ; and either turn to the left, by the pass called Scarf Gap, to Buttermere ; or to the right, over the Black Sail, to Wasdale Head. This way a horse might be taken, and some enterprising tourists will venture with horses, to cross both these passes in their route from Wasdale to Buttermere. This lake is well stocked with trout : here is also an inferior kind of char, which enter the river in autumn to deposit their spawn ; contrary to the habits of those in the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock. There are two small public-houses at Ennerdale Bridge; but not calculated to afford much accommodation to travellers. At one nearer the lake a boat may be procured. High Craff Bowness Knot (line 3) Latterbarrow (line 2) Anglebarrow (line 3) Wind Yate ( 21 ) HEAD OP WAST WATER. WAST WATER Is a lake full three miles in length, and more than half a mile in breadth. It has been recently sounded to the depth of 45 fathoms; but we have been told of a particular spot, where a line of double the length did not reach the bottom : which must at any rate be several fathoms below the level of the sea. It is pro- bably owing to its great depth, in proportion to the extent of surface, that it has never been known to freeze; the duration of winter not being sufficient to cool the whole mass of water to that temperature which permits ice to be formed upon its surface. The fish of Wast Water are chiefly trout, with which it is weU stored : it also contains a few char. Boats are kept by neighbouring gentlemen for the diversion of angling; and the appearance of the Screes from the lake is magnificent. At Nether Wasdale, about a mile and a half from the foot of the lake, there are two public-houses where travellers may have refreshment, and boats on the lake, if required : there is no other between this and Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, a distance of fourteen miles, one third of which is very difficult mountain road. 22 Wast water. Wasdale Head consists of about half a dozen dwellings sheltered by trees, and a small Chapel, in the midst of an area of arable land, encircled by the loftiest mountains. A public-house here is much wanted; the kind hospitality of the inhabitants being not unfrequently drawn upon by strangers; but it is expected that a license to entertain travellers will shortly be obtained by one of the house- holders. Bowderdale has a single farm-house, in a lateral valley opening near the middle of the lake. At Crook Head, near the foot of the lake, Stansfield Rawson, Esq., of Halifax, has a neat Gothic summer residence, called Wasdale Hall. The mountains environing Wast Water are lofty and majestic. A shivery mountain side, called the Screes, bounds the lake on the south-east, extending quite into the water ; so that it cannot be passed on that side, even by a pedestrian, without considerable difficulty, and some danger. From some points of view, Yewbarrow forms a fine apex, while Kirkfell retires behind it; at the head of the dale the pyramidical Gable appears conspicuous ; Lingmell comes boldly forward on the right, over which Scawfell and the Pikes reign pre-eminent; the Hay Cock may be seen through the lateral vale of Bowder- dale, and the Pillar crowns the head of the branch called Mosedale : MiddlefeU, running along the margin of the lake on the spectator's side, and the Screes on the oppo- site, complete the panorama. In short. Wast W^ater afibrds many peculiarities weU worth visiting once, but scarcely sufficient to yield that increased degree of plea- sure in a second and third inspection, which would be experienced on Derwent, Ullswater, or Windermere. Buckbarrow Pike Middlefell Yewbarrow Great Gable ( 25 ) THE TARNS. There are numerous other receptacles of still water, which, being too small to merit the appellation of Lakes, are called Tarns. Existing in a principal valley, they contribute little to its importance ; environed with swampy ground, they seem to represent the scanty remnant of a once more considerable lake. But in a recess on the side of a vale, or on a mountain, as they are generally placed, their margins being well defined, they become more interesting. Reposing at the foot of lofty precipices, and sometimes appearing as if embanked by a collection of materials excavated from the basin which they occupy, they afford ample room for conjecture as to the mode of their formation. Being sheltered from the winds, their surface often ex- hibits the finest reflections of the rocks and surrounding scenery, highly pleasing to the eye of such as view them with regard to the picturesque ; but it is more agree- able to the wishes of the angler, to see their surface ruffled by the breeze. Tarns in the tributary streams of Windermere. Blelham Tarn lies at a short distance, in the direction of Hawkshead. This and Loughrigg Tarn were formerly noted for the production of the Hirudo medicinalis, the medicinal leech ; but draining and cultivation have exter- minated the species. Elterwater is one of the largest of the Tarns ; and having given its name to a small hamlet in Langdale, it became necessary, in speaking of the water itself, to add the word Tttrn by way o^ distinction. It is nearly a mile in length, and divided n 26 TARNS. into three parts. By the sudden influx of water from the two Langdales, the low meadows on its margin are frequently overflowed, and rendered wet and swampy. To obviate this, great pains have lately been taken in opening its outlet ; by which means the dimensions of the water have been greatly contracted ; and the fishery of trout has been nearly annihilated by the introduction of that voracious fish, the pike. Loughrigg Tarn is a circular piece of water of about twenty acres, en- vironed by green meadows, intermixed with rocky woods and cultivated grounds. Its glassy surface dis- plays beautiful reflections of the farm-houses, fields, and trees, surmounted by rockj^ steeps ; and when taken in combination with Langdale Pikes in the distance, it makes an excellent picture. Little Langdale Tarn, in the valley of that name, is one whose consequence is lessened by the swampiness of its shores. Blea Tarn, lying on the high ground between the two vales of Great and Little Langdale, has a few fields and a se- questered farm-house adjoining, and called by its name — " A liquid pool that glittered in the sun, and one bare Dwelling ; one abode, no more !" Wordsworth. Stickle Tarn, at the foot of Pavey-ark, a huge rock in connection with Langdale Pikes, is famous for the quality of its trout. Its dimensions have been greatly enlarged by its adaption as a reservoir for the gunpowder mills at Elterwater. The stream falhng into Langdale, at Millbeck, in a foaming cataract, may be seen at a distance. Codale Tarn is a small piece of water, containing a few trout, perch, and eels. It sends a small stream down a rocky channel into Easdale Tarn, which is one of the largest mountain tarns, seated TARNS. 27 m the western branch of Grasmere vale, among rocky precipices, of which Blakerigg, or Blea Crag, famous for the production of the Vaccinium Myrtillus, (Bilberry, Bleaberry, Whortle-berry,) is the principal. Its stream is, from its frothy whiteness, called Sour-milk Gill, and, when well supplied with water, is a striking object from the road. Tarns in the environs of Ullswater. Ayes "Water is of more extended dimensions than most of those called tarns; and is much frequented by anglers. The stream from it passes Low Hartshop, joining that from Brothers Water near the foot of the latter. Angle Tarn, lying north of the last, upon the mountain separating Patterdale from Martindale, is one of the smaller class ; but of a curious shape, having two rocky islets, and a small broken peninsula. Its stream, in a quick descent, reaches the vale about half a mile further down. Grisedale Tarn, one of the larger class, lies in the junction of the three mountains, Helvellyn, Seat- sandal,* and Fairfield. The road over the Hause, from Grasmere to Patterdale, passing the tarn, is accompanied by its stream down the vale of Grisedale, which unites with the parent vaUey near the Church. Red Tarn, also of considerable extent, covering upwards of twenty acres, is upon the highest level of any of the mountain tarns ; being upwards of two thousand three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and about seven hundred feet below the summit of Helvellyn ; from whence into it you might almost cast a stone, Keppel Cove Tarn * From a small space of ground here the rain water sheds into Windermere, Ullswater, and Derwent ; entering the sea by the river Leven into Morecambe Bay ; by the Eden into the Solway Frith ; and by the Derwent into the Irish Sea^ 28 TARNS. is posited in a singular manner, not in the bottom of the glen, but in a kind of recess formed on one side ; it is separated from Red Tarn by a narrow mountain ridge called Swirrel Edge, which branches off from Helvellyn and is terminated by a peak called Catsty Cam, modern- ized into Catchedecam; below which the two streams unite to form the brook of Glenridding. All these tarns afford good diversion for the angler : Keppel Cove pro- duces a bright, well-shapen trout ; those of Angle Tarn are by some considered of superior flavour ; but when quantity as weU as quality is taken into account. Ayes Water may perhaps be allowed the pre-eminence. Tarns connected with Howes Water. Small Water — rightly named — hes between Harter Fell and High Street ; and is passed by a mountain track leading from Kentmere to Mardale, over the hause called Nan Bield. Blea Water, separated from the last by a projection of High Street, lies at the foot of a lofty rock called Blea Water Crag. Before reaching the valley, their two streams become united, and passing Mardale Green, it makes the principal feeder of Hawes Water. Tarns in the Feeders of Coniston Water. Two or three pools, between the hills on the north of Coniston Waterhead, are called simply The Tarns ; while those in the western quarter have received the more dignified appellation of Waters. Levers Water, the largest, is situated in a wide valley, between the moun- tains Old Man and Wetherlam. Low Water, placed on the Old Man's side, belies its name, as it occupies the highest level. Their united streams, after a succession TARNS. 29 of pretty waterfalls, pass Coniston Church, in their way to the lake. Gates Water [Goat's Water] reposes between the Old Man's western side, and the foot of the precipitous Dow Crag, [Dove Crag.] Besides being, in common with the other tarns, stocked with trout, it also contains some char. Its stream forms the rivulet of Torver. Blind Tarn is a small reservoir of water devoid of outlet. Beacon Tarn, a small one, near the foot of the lake. Seathwaite Tarn, one of the largest class, emptiea itself into the river Duddon ; it is separated from Levers Water, only by a narrow mountain ridge. In the rise of the river Kent, the mere, or tarn, giving to the valley in which it was situated the name of Kent- mere, has, in the progress of agricultural improvement, been, some years since, annihilated ; but, in the upper part of the vale, a reservoir covering about 40 acres has lately been constructed to regulate the supply of water, by which several mUls in the neighbourhood of Kendal are put in motion. Skeggles Water, on the heath- clad mountain be- tween that and Long-Sleddale, is small and uninteresting. Tarns tributary to Derwent Lake. A second Blea Tarn, containing excellent trout, is situated on the heathy mountain between Wythburn and Borrowdale. After a course of nearly two miles, the water is received by Watendlath* Tarn, which covers * A specimen of the diversity of local orthography: — Watendlath—DonaXA, 1774. Wattendleth— Clarke, 1789. Watanlath—^Sf est, 1796. Watenlath — Hist. Cumb. 1794. Wordsworth, Greeu, Parson and White, Gilpin, Housman. Watendletfi— Ware, 1808. Watinlath — Alison, 1835, Wilkinson. b2 30 TARNS. about a dozen acres ; but is now nearly destitute of fish of any kind : the trout, for which it was once famous, have been destroyed by the introduction of their enemies, the pike ; yet, on account of its romantic scenery, the valley of Watendlath is still worthy of being visited. It is the stream from these tarns which, after running two miles further, along a narrow valley, forms the famed cataract of Lowdore. Angle Tarn, stocked only with a few perch, lies on the north of Bowfell, in the head of the stream falling into the branch of Borrowdale, called Langstreth. At the foot of Eagle Crag, this is joined by another stream, from the branch of Greenup ; and after passing Stonethwaite and Rosthwaite, joins the Seathwaite branch a little further down the vale. Sprinkling Tarn, of irregular shape, reposes under Great End Crag : it abounds with excellent trout ; but they are too well fed, or too wary, to be easUy tempted by the bait of the angler. Sty-head Tarn, in some maps called Sparkling Tarn, lies about three quarters of a mile below the last, near the road to Wasdale. The water, which it receives from Sprinkling Tarn, seems to have been deprived of its nutritive qualities ; as its fish are of a very inferior kind. The stream, running from thence towards Seathwaite, has some fine frothy breaks, and one graiid waterfall, before it reaches the bottom of the vale. Dock Tarn and Tarn of Leaves — one on the east side of Stonethwaite, the other between Seathwaite and Langstreth — are barely entitled to be mentioned. Harrop Tarn, though but a small piece of water, is the principal one belonging to Thirlmere. It lies on the western side of Wythburn, and its stream, called Dob Gill, passing a few houses, joins the rivulet in the vale a little before it reaches the lake. TARNS. 31 Scales Tarn, on the east end of the mountain Saddle- back, is an oval piece of water, covering an area of three acres and a half, its two diameters being 176 and 124 yards, its depth 1 8 feet ; it is uninhabited by the finny tribe. Some very exaggerated descriptions of this tarn have found their way into the History of Cumberland and other publications. From its gloomy appearance, occa- sioned by being overshadowed by steep rocks, its depth was supposed to be very great ; and it has been repre- sented as the crater of an extinct volcano; an assump- tion not supported by present appearances. Its stream, nearly encompassing Souterfell, is called the Glen- deramakin, which, passing Threlkeld, joins that from Thirlmere to form the Greta. Bowscale Tarn, which empties itself into the Caldew, is seated in a basin, singularly scooped out in the side of a hdl. Over Water lies to the north of Skiddaw, in the rise of the river Ellen. Burtness Tarn, or Bleaberry Tarn, lies on the south-west side of Butter- mere, in a recess between High Stile and Red Pike ; its stream forms the cataract called Sour-milk GUI. Floutem Tarn serves as a land-mark in passing between Buttermere and Ennerdale ; as Burnmoor Tarn does between Wasdale-head and Eskdale. Devoke Water, connected with the Esk near Ravenglass, is famous for the excellence of its trout, and as a place of resort for water fowl. There are some other small tarns of little consequence in themselves, and seldom seen by strangers ; therefore they scarcely require to be noticed : such as Eel Tarn, Stony Tarn, and Blea Tarn, in Eskdale ; Greendale Tarn, and the two Tarns above Bowderdale, in the Was- dale mountains. ( 32 ) THE WATERFALJ.S. LowDORE Cascade constitutes one of the most mag- nificent scenes of its kind among the lakes. It is not a perpendicular fall, but a foaming cataract; the water rushing impetuously from a height of 360 feet, and bounding over and among the large blocks of stone with which the channel is filled ; so that when the river is full, it is a striking object at three mUes distance. To the left, the perpendicular Gowder Crag, nearly five WATSRFALLS. 33 hundred feet high, towers proudly pre-eminent; while from the fissures of Shepherd's Crag on the right, the oak, ash, birch, holly, and wUd rose, hang in wanton luxuriance. At the place where it is usually seen, more than half the height of the fall lies beyond the limits of the view, and in dry seasons there is a deficiency of water ; yet its splendid accompaniments of wood and rock render it at all times an object deserving the notice of tourists. Winding round Shepherd's Crag towards the top of the fall, and looking between two finely-wooded side screens, through the chasm in which the water is pre- cipitated, a part of Derwent lake with its islands, beyond it the vale of Keswick, ornamented with white buildings, and the whole surmounted by the lofty Skid- daw — forms a picture in its kind scarcely to be equalled. Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, has an upper and lower fall, more perpendicular than that of Lowdore, and exhibits to advantage a smaller quantity of water. From the top of the fall, the lake and vale, when not intercepted by trees, are seen in fine perspective. White Water Dash, on the north of Skiddaw, is conspicuous from the road between Ireby and Bassen- thwaite ; and viewed from its foot, with the lofty Dead Crag on the right, is a good picture. Scale Force, near Buttermere, is the deepest in all the region of the lakes : it is said to fall at once one hundred and fifty-two feet, besides a smaller fall below. The water is precipitated into a tremendous chasm, be- tween two mural rocks of sienite, beautifully overhung 34 WATERFALLS- with trees v/hich have fixed their roots in the crevices ; the sides clad with a profusion of plants which glitter with the spray of the fall. Visitors generally scramble past the lower fall and proceed along this chasm, where the air, filled with moisture and shaded from the sun, feels cool and damp as in a cellar ; tiU the more copious sprinkling of the spray compels them to retrace their steps. AiREY Force, on UUswater, is concealed by ancient trees, in a deep glen in Gowbarrow Park. The water, compressed between two cheeks of rock, rushes forth with great violence, and dashing from rock to rock, forms a spray, which, with the sun in a favourable di- rection, exhibits all the colours of the rainbow. Skelwith Force is not of great height, but it has the most copious supply of water of any cascade among the lakes. From Skelwith Bridge there is a road on the Westmorland side of the river, whence looking down upon the basin, the turmoil of the water appears very interesting ; and just beyond this, there is a good view of Elterwater : but, as a picture, the fall is better seen from the Lancashire side, where the Langdale Pikes, appearing between the cheeks of the rock, make an ex- cellent distance. Rydal Waterfalls. — The upper is a considerable cascade, pouring out its water, first in a contracted stream, down a perpendicular rock ; and then, in a broader sheet, dashing into a deep, stony channel. The lower, being near the house, forms a beautiful garden scene. WATERFALLS. 35 HEAD OP STOCK GILL. Stock Gill Force, at Ambleside, is a combination of four falls in one ; it falls from a height of 70 feet ; the water, divided into two streams, after a moment's rest in the middle of the rock, is finally precipitated into the deep, shaded channel below. Dungeon Gill is a stream issuing between the two Pikes of Langdale. The water falls about 20 jmrds into an awful chasm, with overhanging sides of rock, between which a large block of stone is impended like the key- stone of an arch. CoLwiTH Force is a fine waterfall, and is but little out of the way for those who make the tour through Little Langdale. Birker Force, on the south side of Eskdale, is a stream of water emitted between lofty rocks, and pour- 36 WATERFALLS. ing from a great elevation down the hil] side in a stripe of foam. Dalegarth Forck, or Stanley Gill, on the same side of the valley, is a sublime piece of scenery. From the ancient mansion of Dalegarth Hall, now a farm- house, a path has been formed, crossing the stream from side to side, three times, by lofty wooden bridges. The water falls, in successive cascades, over granite rocks, which rise on each side to a stupendous height, and are finely ornamented with trees, and fringed with a profusion of bilberry, and other plants, rooted in the Taylor Gill is a dry chasm, meeting the stream of water from Sty-head Tarn near the head of the Sea- thwaite branch of Borrowdale ; and below their junction is a lofty waterfall : a good object from the road to Wasdale. Sour-milk Gill is a name applied to some mountain torrents, on account of their frothy whiteness resembling butter- milk from the churn. We have Sour- milk GUI near Buttermere, Sour-milk Gill in Grasmere, and Sour- milk Gill near the Black-lead Mine in Borrowdale. The above enumerated are some of the most noted of the falls ; but tracing the mountain streams into their deep recesses, they present an inexhaustible variety : smaller indeed, but frequently of very interesting fea- tures. ( 37 ) THE RIVERS Of this district are not of large dimensions ; but issuing from rocky mountains, and running in pebbly channels, the water they contain is remarkable for its clearness and purity. From the central cluster of mountains about Bowfell, Scawfell, and Gable, many of them derive their origin; others have their source in the neighbourhood of Helvellyn and High Street. The Derwent has its rise in BorroM^dale ; its branches are known by different names till it reaches the lake, from whence it is called the Derwent till it enters the sea. The river issuing from Thirlmere, commonly called St. John's beck, has formerly been called the Sure; the one from Mungrisdale by Threlkeld Glenderamakin ; after their junction, it takes the name of Greta, and receives the Glenderaterra from between Skiddaw and Saddle- back ; passing Keswick, it joins the Derwent, shortly after that river leaves the lake. In heavy rains the Greta sometimes rises so suddenly that it inverts the stream of the Derwent above their junction, so that the lake is for a short time literally filled from all quarters. The water issuing from Buttermere, Crummock, and Lowes "Water, forms the river Cocker, which falls into the Derwent at the town named, from this circumstance. Cocker mouth. The Ellen rises in the mountains north of Skiddaw, and passing Uldale, Ireby, and Ellenborough, falls into the sea at Maryport. The several becks of Patterdale unite in UUswater, the river issuing from thence is called the Eamont; it receives the Lowther, from Hawes Water, Swindale, and Wet-Sleddale, near Brougham Castle; and is afterwards as BIVERS. absorbed in the Eden, which enters the Solway Frith a little below Carlisle; having first received the Petterill, which rises near Greystoke, and the Caldew, from the east side of Skiddaw. Two small streams, crossing the road between Kendal and Shap, fall into the Lune — which at Kirkby Lonsdale is a fine river, and crossed by a lofty antique bridge ; it is navigable at Lancaster, a httle below which place it falls into the sea. The Kent, rising in Kentmere, receives the Sprint from Long-Sleddale, and the Mint from Bannisdale. It washes the skirts of Kendal, and enters the sea near Milnthorp, where it is joined by the Belo. The becks of Great and Little Langdale, combined in Elterwater, form the Brathay, and those of Grasmere and Rydal the Rothay, which unite in Windermere : after leaving the lake, it is called the Leven, which joins the Crake from Coniston upon the sands below Penny Bridge, The Duddon rises on the south of Bowfell, and sepa- rates Cumberland from Lancashire. Unretarded by any lake, it pursues its course in a pellucid stream, and enters the sea on the north of the Isle of Walney. The Esk, rising on the east of Scawfell, retains its iiame till it enters the sea at Ravenglass ; where the Irt from Wasdale, and the Mite from Miterdale, join it upon the sands. The Bleng, passing Gosforth, falls into the Irt above Santon Bridge. The water flowing from the north side of Gable runs in a long meandering stream down Ennerdale : it is called the Lisa tiU it enters the lake ; afterwards the EJien till it falls into the sea, half way between Ravenglass and St. Bees. The Colder enters the sea near the same place. ( 39 ) THE MOUNTAINS Of the Lake district are of sufficient elevation to com- mand extensive prospects over the surrounding country; yet not so high as to create any disagreeable sensations in climbing their slopes, or traversing their ridges, in favourable weather. Their magnitude imparts a sublimity to the scenery, without overcharging the picture with any dispropor- tionate objects. The rocks and ravines on their sides convey some knowledge of the materials whereof they are composed; and, by their variety of soil and elevation of surface, they are adapted to the production of different kinds of vegetables. In the summer season the bottoms of the glens are grazed by cattle; the flocks ascend their steeps, and nibble a scanty sustenance from the blades of grass peep- ing out between the stones on the highest summits. Some of the sheep are annually drawn from the flock, and placed in the inclosures to fatten — and the mutton hams produced from these mountains are famed through England; but many remain upon the commons during winter, when, in deep snows, the occupation of the shep- herd becomes arduous. Foxes breed in caverns on the mountains; but being accused of the destruction of young lambs and poultry, the shepherds declare war against them whenever they are found. A few Red Deer are still remaining upon the Fells of Martindale. Eagles, which half a century ago were frequently seen in their lofty flights over these mountains, are not now to be met with. Though they built their nests in the most inaccessible rocks, the shepherds were so bent upon 40 MOUNTAINS. their destruction, that they contrived, by the help of ropes, annually to take away or destroy either the eggs or the young; tiU at length the species has been whoUy exter- minated from the country. A small bird called the Dotterel is found upon Skid- daw, and other high mountains. Grouse breed in parts thickly covered with heath. About the latter end of October, Woodcocks begin to arrive, and are frequently met with on the woods and commons bordering on some of the lakes. SKIDDAW. A view of the country, from at least one of the eminent mountains of the district, is considered as forming a part of the tour, by those who can muster strength and reso- lution for the undertaking; and for this purpose Skiddaw is, on several accounts, generally selected. It is nearest to the station at Keswick, most easy of access, as ladies may ride on horseback to the very summit; and stand- ing in some measure detached, the view, especially to the north and west, is less intercepted by other mountains. Skiddaw is the supreme of a group of mountains about thirty miles in circumference; including Saddleback, Car- rock, and the Caldbeck fells: its height, according to Colonel Mudge, is 3022 feet above the sea. A mean of seven different trials with the barometer, between the years 1809 and the present time, makes it 2808 feet above Derwent lake; and the result of a geometrical process by the late Mr, Greatorex, in 1817, agrees with the same very nearly. The body of the mountain is a rock of dark-coloured clay-slate, in some parts of which crystals of chiastolite are found imbedded; and among its vegetable productions ..HuUock ..Long Side ..Carlside ..Carsleddam (line 2) ..Broad End, near the highest point ..Skiddaw Man ..Little Man .Howgill Tongue (line 2) 2 w S ..Jenkin HiU ..Lonscale Fell .Latrigg .High Row Fell r ..Priest Man ..Linthwaite Pike, Sad- dleback j.,V ..Knot AUer ..Scales Fell SKlDDAW, 41 are the different species of Lycopodium and Vaccinium, the Calluna vulgaris, and Empetrum nigrum; and upon the summit the Salix herlacea peeps forth among the stones. Anticipation of an extensive prospect being the princi- pal motive for ascending a mountain, it is a question frequently asked, "Which is the best time of day for going to Skiddaw?" It is not easy to give a precise answer to this question ; the morning is commonly re- commended, and generally the sooner you are there after the sun has fully illumined the mountains the better; whether in an early morning, or on a dispersion of the clouds in any other part of the day. During a clear cold night, the vapour is copiously precipitated from the higher into the lower parts of the atmosphere ; so that very early in a morning, the sum- mits of the mountains, gilded by the sun, appear in great magnificence ; and the contrast of light and shade upon their sides is very interesting. But, at such times, a haziness often prevails in the valleys ; which, as the air becomes warmed by the sun, again ascends ; and at the same time receives an augmentation by the vapour arising from the ground ; the tremulous motion of which may sometimes be perceived, as it exudes from the sur- face of the earth in places exposed to the most direct action of the solar rays. After a succession of dry and hot days the air is sel- dom favourable for a prospect ; but between showers, or when clouds prevail — provided they are above the alti- tude of the mountains — the view is often extended to a great distance. When the atmosphere is loaded with clouds, the middle of the day affords the greatest proba- bihty of their rising above the mountains ; and a mid- B 2 42 seiddIw. day light gives the most general iUumination to objects on every point of the horizon. A declining sun may throw a beautiful blaze of light upon some parts of the landscape ; but its effects will not be so general ; and a person remaining upon the mountain tQl the sun goes down, especially in Autumn, wiU. find night come on apace as he descends. Sometimes, when clouds have formed below the summit, the country, as viewed from above, resembles a sea of mist; a few of the highest mountain peaks having the appearance of islands, on which the sun seems to shine with unusual splendour. And when the spectator is so situated that his shadow falls upon the cloud, he may observe some curious meteorological phenomena. I'o those who have frequently beheld it under other circum- stances, this may be a new and interesting spectacle; but a tourist, making his first and perhaps only visit, wUl naturally wish to have the features of the country more completely developed. It is a grievous, though not an uncommon circum- stance, to be wrapt in a cloud, which seems to be con- tinually passing on, yet never leaves the mountain during the time appropriated for the stay ; but those who are fortunate enough to be upon the summit at the very time of the cloud's departure, will experience a gratification of no common kind ; when — like the rising of the cur- tain in a theatre — the country in a mGment bursts upon the eye. It wiU always be better to seize on a favourable opportunity for a mountain excursion, than to attempt to fix the time beforehand ; other journeys, where the state of the air is of less importance, may be deferred. , A telescope may assist in the examination or recognition SKIDDAW. 43 of a particular building or object; but in. viewing the great features of the prospect, it can render little assist- ance : it is only when the air is clear that it can be used with advantage ; and then the field of vision is so exten- sive, and the objects so numerous, that sufficient time is seldom afforded for individual contemplation. From Keswick to the top of Skiddaw the barometer falls very nearly three inches ; and the air often feels colder than the thermometer would seem to indicate ; which may be owing, partly to the heat acquired by the exertion in climbing, and partly to the greater quantity of moisture in the air, with a current prevailing upon the summit ; by which the heat evolved by the body is more rapidly dispelled from the clothing ; but the difficulty of breathing, which some have apprehended from the di- minished pressure of the atmosphere, is not found by experience. The distance to be travelled from Keswick to the top of Skiddaw is nearly six miles. Since the inclosure of the common took place, in 1810, the way has been varied at the discretion of the gentlemen through whose ground it lies. Visitors generally take the Penrith road, by the side of the river Greta for half a mile^.to the toll- bar ; where, crossing the river to Mr. Spedding's house, and then turning to the left, and winding along the skirts of Latrigg, by an occupation road, at a pleasant elevation, the lake of Derwentwater, the town of Keswick, the beautiful valley, and encircling mountains, are seen to great advantage. Part of the lake of Bassenthwaite also comes in view ; but it adds little to the value of the prospect. Beyond the precincts of Latrigg we have little appear- ance of a road ; but having turned to the right from one 44 SKIDDAW. gate, and to the left from the next, a wall — first on the left hand, and afterwards on the right — pomts out the way. The ascent hitherto has been so gentle, that at the distance of three miles we have reached but one third of the required altitude : but now we begin to encounter a more steep part of the mountain. As we advance in height, the objects in the valley appear to be diminished in magnitude and importance ; but our prospects are enlarged, by mountains at a greater distance rising into view ; among which are those of Coniston, and the hyperbolic summit of the Pike of Stickle, in Langdale. Having reached one half of the altitude, the wall makes a turn to the right, where we leave it — our path lying more directly up the hill — and having combated this steep for about a quarter of a mile further, we find ourselves upon a turfy plain of moderate acchvity ; and by degrees obtain a view of the sea, with a portion of Scotland beyond it — the Isle of Man gradually advancing from behind the western mountains. In a small hoUow, if the weather is not too droughty, we meet with a spring of water ; and, as it is the last by the way, it may be taken advantage of to dilute the brandy, which — with a few biscuits or sandwiches — a provident guide will not forget to recommend. We are now upon the verge of a tract bearing the name of Skiddaw Forest, although without a tree. The heath is well stocked with grouse, for the protection of which a lodge was erected by the late Earl of Egremont. Here the river Caldew takes its rise ; and from hence in a serpentine course makes its way to CarUsle. A new view to the northward now opens to us, over the narrow part of Solway Frith into Scotland ; and we descry the long-looked-for pile upon the summit of the mountain. SKIDDAW. 45 Following a beaten track, we leave a double-pointed hill on our left, beyond which succeeds another steep ascent of 500 feet, where we suddenly regain a view of Derwent- water and the mountains beyond it. At the top of this steep we reach the last point seen from the valley ; it is the south end of a ridge, covered with fragments of slaty rocks ; and towards its further end lies the object of our journey, which is marked by a large pile of stone, erected in 1826, by a detachment of the Ordnance surveyors. Here the lake of Derwent and vale of Keswick are hid from us ; but our attention is now arrested by more distant objects. The town of Whitehaven is concealed from our sight; but the headlands of St. Bees beyond it are conspicuous, and the Isle of Man in the same direction. Workington, with its shipping, may be seen due west, and further northwards Maryport, and the fashionable bathing-place of Allonby. Cockermouth, with its church and castle, is seen over the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake ; and be- tween us and the borders of Scotland lies a large extent of cultivated country, in which the city of Carlisle stands as a central object. Beyond Solway Frith, the mountain CrifFel, in Kirkcudbrightshire, appears near the shore ; and on its right is the mouth of the river Nith, on which stands the town of Dumfries. To the left lies the small island called Hasten, at the foot of the water of Orr ; and further west, the mouth of the Dee, at Kirkcudbright, opening into the large bay of Wigton. Beyond it, the bay of Glenluce, with Burrow Head, and the MuU of GaUoway, are sometimes visible. The houses and corn- fields on the Scottish coast are often distinguishable ; with mountains rising behind mountains to an intermin- able distance. The Cheviot hills appear in the direction 46 SKIDDAW. of High Pike ; but it would be in vain to look for the German Ocean, which has sometimes been represented as visible from hence. Penrith and its Beacon may be seen, and beyond it the lofty Crossfell, with some of the eminences bordering upon Northumberland, Durham, and Yorkshire. To the right of Penrith are the walls of Brougham Castle, and the mansion of Lord Brougham. The hills sur- rounding Ullswater are in view; and the top of Ingle- borough appears beyond the end of High Street. Through the gap of Dunmail Raise, the estuary of the Kent, be- low Milnthorp, appears in two small portions, sepsirated by the intervention of Yewbarrow, a hill in Witherslack; and the Castle of Lancaster may sometimes be discerned with a telescope, beyond the southern edge of Gummers- how, in Cartmel Fells. The superior eminences of ScawfeU and Gable have been in full view during our ascent, and we may now discover Black Comb through an opening between the latter and KirkfeE; and part of the Screes mountain beyond Wast Water, between Kirkfell and the Pillar. In the same direction, may Snowdon, in Wales, possibly be sometimes discerned ; and to the right of the Isle of Man, perhaps the Irish mountains; but nine times out ten it would be in vain to look for either. It would be superfluous to enumerate more of the ob- jects which on a very fine day may be seen from this mountain ; it is the province of the guide to point them out as they rise into view, or as a favourable light renders them most clearly discernable. It is not those objects that are seldom and dimly seen, that ought to receive the greatest attention; but rather such as may be dis- tinctly known and properly appreciated. It must not SKIDDAW. 47 be expected that objects at fifty miles distance should appear as distinct as these near at hand ; indeed it often happens, that they cannot be seen at all, though the air to a moderate distance seems remarkably clear; yet still a person who sets out with a disposition to be pleased, will, on any tolerably fine day, be sufiiciently compen- sated for his trouble; and the more the distant objects are veiled from view, the higher wiU the near ones rise in estimation. One of the most vexatious circumstances, and which not unfrequently happens, is to meet with a small cap of cloud upon the summit, that entirely excludes all pros- pect from thence; in such a case, the party — if on foot, and not over timid — ought to be conducted from the south end of the ridge downwards about 600 feet to a part of the mountain called Carlside, where most of the objects may be seen that should have been visible from the summit, and the homeward journey, by the hamlet of Millbeck, not at aU lengthened — only in parts steeper. By deviating from Carlside tarn, along the ridge to the point of HuUock, the city of Carlisle may just be seen; and an unrivalled view of Bassenthwaite Lake. A party on horseback might go a little to the northward from the summit, make their descent into the valley of Bas- senthwaite, and after refreshing at the Castle Inn, return to Keswick on the western side of the Lake. HELVELLYN AiFords a more complete geographical display of the lake district than any other point within its limits : several of the lakes may be viewed from thence, and the mountains in every direction appear in a most splendid arrangement; 48 HELVELLYN. while, from the south to the western part of the horizon, the distant ocean may be discerned through several of the spaces between them. According to Colonel Mudge, the height of Helvellyn above the level of the sea is 3055 feet. It is about 2540 feet above the Nag's Head, at Wythbum, from which place it is most frequently ascended; the distance here being the shortest, and a guide can be had. It is too steep to make use of horses ; but by an active person on foot it is easily surmountable. The ascent on this side is no where difficult or dangerous ; it may be commenced at the six mile stone, at the King's Head, or other places nearer Keswick, where the views in the progress upwards are less circumscribed than at Wythburn. By leaving the turnpike road at Fisher Place, the waterfalls in Brotto Gill on the left hand are brought into notice; in one of these the water is projected further from the rock than in any other cascade in the neighbourhood. From this place, as we advance in altitude, the ISkes of Thirl- mere and Bassenthwaite are gradually developed to the sight; Skid daw and Saddleback being in view to the north; and the mountains lying to the south-west pro- gressively appearing to rise up beyond the long and un- interesting fell, which lies between the lake of Thirlmere and the valley of Borrowdale. On the western side of the mountain, about the dis- tance of three hundred yards from its summit, and three hundred perpendicular feet below it, there is a spring called Brownrigg Well, where the water issues in all seasons in a copious stream; its temperature in the sum- mer months being generally from 40° to 42°; and vphen mixed with a little brandy, as recommended by " mine host" of the Nag's Head, it malces a grateful beverage. HELVBLLYN. 49 This mountain is also frequently ascended from Pat- terdale; where, for three-fourths of the way, the ascent is gentle, and gradually opens out pleasing views of the lake of Ullswater, with the scenery around and beyond it. More immediately below, is the narrow vale of Grisedale, surmounted by the lofty St, Sunday Crag, which casts its solemn shade into the valley. On reaching the first ridge of the mountain, the long-looked-for summit pile is discovered on the top of a rocky precipice, seven hun- dred feet in height above Red Tarn, which lies inclosed in the bosom of the mountain before us. From hence the shortest way is one that many would hesitate to venture upon; while others might think it a stigma upon their courage to decline it. It lies along the top of Striding Edge, which in some parts affords little more footing than the ridge of a house, whUe its sides are far steeper than an ordinary roof. A less difficult way is to leave the tarn on the left hand, ascending Swirrel Edge, which is comparatively smooth; yet here is a little rocky scrambling to gain the top of the precipice; in the midst of which it will be well to halt, and take a view of Bas- senthwaite Lake, with its environs, which cannot be seen from the highest part of the mountain. The ground towards the summit forms a kind of moss- clad plain, sloping gently to the west, and terminated on the east by a series of rocky precipices; and here the prospect on every side is grand beyond conception. Con- siderable portions of the lakes of Ullswater, Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite, v»dth several of the mountain tarns, are to be seen. Red Tarn is seated so deeply below the eye, that, compared with its gigantic accom- paniments, it would scarcely be estimated at more than half its actual dimensions. To the right and left of Red 50 HELVEILYN. Tarn, the two narrow ridges called Striding Edge and Swirrel Edge, are stretched out in the direction of the lamina of the slaty rock, of which this part of the moun- tain is composed. Beyond Swurrel Edge lies Keppel- cove Tarn; and at the termination of the ridge rises the peak of Catsty-cam, modernized into Catchedecam, or Catchety-cam. Angle Tarn, and the frothy stream from Ayes Water, may be seen among the hills beyond Patterdale; and more remote, the estuaries of the Kent and Leven, uniting in the wide bay of Morecambe, and extending to the distant ocean. Chapel Isle is an object in the Ulverston channel; and a small triangular piece of water, near the middle of Windermere, serves as a direction to the town and castle of Lancaster, which are sometimes visible from hence. Tlie sea, circumscribing the western half of the Lake district, from Lancaster sands to the Solway Frith, is here and there visible be- tween the peaks of the distant mountains; each portion in succession reflecting the sun's rays to the eye of the spectator, as the luminary descends towards the western horizon. On the banks of Ullswater, Hallsteads, the beautiful residence of William Marshall, Esq., occupies a promi- nent station. From the foot of the lake the vale of Eamont leads towards Brougham-Hall and the ruins of the ancient Castle near it. The cultivated country about Penrith is bounded by a chain of mountains topped by the lofty Crossfell ; to the right of which are high grounds separating Westmorland from Durham and Yorkshire; and further still to the right, the crowned head of Ingleborough stands conspicuous. Black Comb, in the distance beyond Wrynose, fills up the space be- tween the fells of Coniston and Langdale; Crinkle Crags .Old Man — Coniston •Wetherlam (line 2) . Carrs, or Scars .Grey Friar o .Harrison Stickle (line 2) .Crinkle Crags OQ td td t?d 5p ^ ;r'^V'r PW ^/s- ...Hanging Knot ...Scawfell Pike ...Great End ...Lingmel ...Glaramara .Green Gable .Kirkfell . Seatallan . Yewbarrow .Hay Cock .Pillar • Steeple .Honister (line 2) .High Crag .High Stile .Red Pike . Robinson . Melbreak .Blake Fell .Whiteless Pike . Grasmoor .111 Crags .Whiteside . Causey Pike (line 2) .Grisedale Pike HELVELLYN. 51 and Bowfell are exceeded in altitude by the Pikes on Scawfell; on the opposite side of Sty- head, the Gable rears his head to a considerable elevation; and in a favourable state of the atmosphere, the Isle of Man ap- pears to rise so close beyond the top of Kirkfell, that the distance of more than fifty miles between them can scarcely be estimated. The PiUar of Ennerdale holds a respectable station; and the mountain beyond Buttermere, with its three protuberances, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, rises behind Honister Crag and the Dalehead of New- lands. Grasmoor and Grisedale Pike look well up among their neighbours, while Skiddaw and Saddleback abate nothing of their importance on being viewed from this elevation. The mountains of Scotland, seen beyond the Solway Frith, fill up the distance; and nearer to our station. High Street, Ill-bell, Fairfield, and many other neighbouring eminences, ought not to be overlooked. Place Fell, and other mountains of Martindale, rise boldly beyond Ullswater; but between this and the foot of Hawes Water, they present less variety of outline. By traveUing along the ridge, to a little distance each way, a variety of prospects may be enjoyed; which those who return directly leave unseen. On proceeding a little northward, one of the islands on Windermere comes in view; and from the lower or northern man, the lakes of Thirlmere and Bassenthwaite may be seen; by deviating a little to the westward, we see a small portion of Gras- mere; and by following the edge of the precipice from the summit to some distance southward, better views of Patterdale present themselves; and the descent to Wyth- bum may then be made, down steeply sloping ground, to a rocky knoll called Bursett Crag; where is a good view 52 HELVELLYN. of Thirlmere, as also of Bassenthwaite Lake. Such as wish to descend at Grasmere may go southwards to the foot of Grisedale Tarn, where a track will be found which joins the turnpike-road five miles from Ambleside; but the best view of Grasmere will be had by leaving the tarn on the left, and winding round the summit of Seat Sandal. Some have extended their excursion from Helvellyn to Fairfield, holding on the mountain ridge to Amble- side; but after making the unavoidable descent of 1350 feet to Grisedale Tarn, a second ascent of 1230 feet will mostly be thought too fatiguing. By exertion too long continued, the mind as well as the body becomes enerva- ted, and incapable of enjoyment; as it has been known in some, who, travelling through Borrowdale in a morn- ing, would not overlook the most trifling object; yet, in the latter part of the same day, have passed the most interesting scenes on Wast Water, without making any other inquiry than, " How far is it to the inn?" SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. The highest point of elevation in all this mountainous district, indeed in all that part of the united kingdom called England, is situated near the commencement of the vales of Langdale, Borrowdale, Wasdale, and Esk- dale: highest not merely as rising above other moun- tains, but as measured from its own base — being 3000 feet above Wast Water. Two rival peaks are called in the Ordnance Survey, Scaw Fell (high point), and Scaw Fell (low point), and their heights respectively 3166 and 3092 feet. Convinced by repeated observations that the difference of altitude does not exceed 60 feet, I have SCAWFEIili ^ND THE PIKES. 53 Stated their heights at 3160 and 3100 feet. The lower point, rismg from a bulky mountain between the vales of Wasdale and Eskdale, is well known as Scawfell; the higher lies nearer Borrowdale, and comprehending more than one peak, has been called, by the inhabitants of Wasdale-head, "The Pikes." Latterly, it seems by common consent, the highest point is called Scawfell Pike : and since the erection of the large pile of stones upon it in 1826, there is no danger of mistaking the place. Although the distance between the two points does not exceed three-quarters of a mile, it is a work of some difficulty to pass from one to the other, on account of the deep chasm, called Mickle Door, which separates them. Excepting some tufts of moss, very little vegetation is to be seen upon these summits. They are chiefly com- posed of rocks, and large blocks of stone pUed one upon another; and their weather-worn surfaces prove that they have long remained in their present state. The prevail- ing rock is a kind of indurated slate, in layers of finer and coarser materials, which gives to the surface a rib- bed or furrowed appearance; the finer parts are compact and hard as flint; upon which the lichen geograpMcus appears in peculiar beauty. Scawfell-Pikes may be ascended on foot from any of the adjacent vales, but most conveniently from Borrow- dale ; yet the distance from a place of entertainment, the ruggedness of the ground, and the danger of being caught in a cloud — to which, from its situation, it is more subject than its neighbours — altogether conspire against its bemg visited by any other than hardy pedes- trians : and strangers should so calculate their time, that night may not overtake them on such places. To be en- f2 54 SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. veloped in a cloud is of itself disagreeable ; cloud and night together would be dreadful. Horses and carriages may be used as far as Sea- thwaite, in Borrowdale, after which the mountain may be ascended on foot at the discretion of the conductor. One way is to leave the Wasdale road at the bridge, proceeding by the side of the giU towards the pass called Esk Hause, and from thence turning up the back of Great-end, which presents its bold rocky front towards Borrowdale, and commands extensive prospects towards both Derwentwater and Windermere. Beyond this there are two unavoidable dips and rises before the summit of the highest Pike can be gained. Another way is to follow the Wasdale road to Sty-head Tarn; from thence, with Great-end Crag on the right, pass Sprinkling Tarn, and join the before-mentioned route. This is perhaps the easiest way, but rather circuitous. From Sty-head Tarn the ascent may be made by steep clambering to the top of Great-end, which affords fine views by the way, and is nearer than the last. But many — after arriving at Sty-head, and obtaining a sight of the pile — wUl be inclined to take the shortest way, by the foot of the great rocks, with a steep ascent at last to the summit. And those who take the last-mentioned route in their progress, should be advised to pass over Great-end and the intermediate summits in returning, for the sake of the varied prospects which they afford. Or the excursion may be agreeably made from the Strands, by a boat be- ing taken to the head of the lake, and the ascent made upon Lingmel. The divergency of several vallies from this point, has been compared to the spokes of a wheel ; and in tracing their courses upon a map, the simile may be applicable SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES, 55 enough ; but upon the spot, the resemblance is not so striking — the mountains run athwart one another in such a way, that little can be seen of the intervening vallies. Here we overlook an immense assemblage of moun- tains, exhibiting the stern grandeur of their rocky sum- mits ; but their general arrangement is not so splendid, nor their forms so well defined, as when viewed from Helvellyn, or from the ascent to Skiddaw ; and there is a deficiency of the rich lowland views that may be had from the latter mountain. Satiated by mountain scenery, the eye is instinctively turned towards the sea, which opens to a great extent, and shews the various indentations of the Lancashire and Cumberland coasts ; with the Isle of Walney stretching from the bay of Morecambe to the estuary of Duddon. The top of Ingleborough may be seen in the distance ; but it requires a very clear atmosphere to dis- cern the mountains of North Wales, which stretch out to the right of Black Comb. The Isle of Man is fre- quently visible ; and when the surface of the sea is covered with a thin film of vapour, the effect at first sight is curious ; the island appearing more like an ob- ject in the clouds than one seated in the water. The fells of Coniston exclude the view of Lancaster sands ; but an opening, between the Old Man and Dow Crag, directs to the church and castle of Lancaster. Some portions of Scotland appear on the right and left of the Ennerdale and Derwent Fells ; and we are just permitted to see that part of the lake of Windermere which lies between the Low Wood Inn and Bowness ; also the eastern side of Derwentwater, and a part of Wast Wa- ter, with Devoke Water, Sty-head Tarn, and a small mountain tarn, above Bowderdale. ^§ SCAWPELL AND THE PIKES. From a point a little to the southward, we can take a peep into the head of the vale of Eskdale, far below us ; and beyond it, see a single habitation in Seathwaite, near the rise of the Duddon. Passing towards Great-end, a portion of Crummock Lake comes in sight ; and from Great-end, and Esk Hause, there are more open views towards the head of Windermere, Loughrigg, Elterwater, and Derwentwater. SADDLEBACK — Being at a greater distance from the station at Keswick than Skiddaw, of somewhat inferior elevation, and the ascent not quite so easy — is seldom visited by strangers. It is better situated than Skiddaw for a view towards the south, and also of the neighbourhood of Lowther and Penrith; but the western view is greatly intercepted. It has formerly been called Blencathera, and it is from its shape, as seen from the viciuity of Penrith, that it has received the name of Saddleback. Its height is 2787 feet, and its rock is a primitive clay- slate, similar to that of Skiddaw. The southern side is formed into a series of deep ravines and rocky projections; while to the north, it descends in a smooth grassy slope : and iu a deep hollow, below a rocky precipice on its eastern end, a small dark tarn is cmriously placed ; as more fully de- scribed at page 31. On two occasions, in 1 743-4, the aerial phenomenon called mirage was observed on a portion of this moun- tain called Souther-Fell or Souterfell : the lover of the marvellous will find an ample detail of the circumstances in "Clarke's Survey of the Lakes," (pub. 1789.) ( 57 ) GABLE, OR GREAT GAVEL — So called from its shape — is a fine object as viewed from Wasdale, from Ennerdale, or from Crummock Lake; it is also seen from Windermere. It is 2925 feet in height, and was remarkable for a well of pure water on the very summit. This was not a spring issuing in the common way out of the earth ; but was supplied imme- diately from the atmosphere, in the shape of rains and dews. It was, till partly demolished, a triangular recep- tacle in the rock, six inches deep, and capable of holding about two gallons ; which, by containing water in the driest seasons, served to shew how slight a degree of evaporation is carried on at this altitude. The rock of Gable is a very hard, compact, dark- coloured stone, with garnets imbedded. THE PILLAR — A mountain rivalling the Gable in height — is situ- ated between the vale of Ennerdale and that branch of Wasdale-head called Mosedale. It presents, towards Ennerdale, one of the grandest rocky fronts anywhere to be met with; and has derived its name from a projecting rock on this side, which was originally called the Pillar Stone, and had been considered as inaccessible, till an adventurous shepherd reached its summit, in 1826. The rock is a kind of greenstone, more porphyritic than that of Gable. BOWFELL Rises proudly in view from Windermere and Esthwaite Lakes. It is 2911 feet in height, and sheds the rain 58 BOWFELL. water into Borrowdale, Langdale, and Eskdale. It is easiest of access from Langdale, but may be reached from any of the above-mentioned vales, or from the vale of Duddon. GRASMOOR Is a bold rocky mountain on the eastern side of Crum- mock Lake ; it is sometimes called Gxasmire, a name in no wise corresponding with its appearance. It rises to the height of 2756 feet. The side towards the lake is extremely rocky and barren ; but the eastern side is a grassy slope, and on its summit is a plain of several acres. It affords a good bird's-eye view of the Lakes of Buttermere, Crummock, and Loweswater, with their adjacent mountains; and a considerable portion of the Cumberland and Scottish coasts. GRISEPALE PIKE Rises to a lofty apex, as its name implies. It is 2580 feet in height; and is well situated for a view of the vale of Keswick to the east ; and a considerable part of the county of Cumberland, with the sea, the Isle of Man, and the mountains of Galloway, to the west and north. CARROCK FELL Malies one of the flanks of that mountain group, whereof Skiddaw forms the crown. It is upwards of 2000 feet in height; and shews a double-pointed summit, on which a space appears to have been once inclosed by a wall. Its basis is a crystalline rock of the nature of sienite; CARHOCK FELL. 59 and in its neighbourhood are veins of lead and copper, with other substances highly interesting to the mineralo- gist and geologist. BLACK COMB, Pronounced Black- Coom, probably from the dark hollow on its south-east side, stands near the southern boundary of Cumberland. Forming the extremity of the mountain chain, it may be seen at a great distance ; and is a fine station both for land and sea prospects. In 1808, it was made one of Colonel Mudge's stations, in the pro- cess of the Trigonometrical Survey. He calculated its height to be 1919 feet above the level of the sea. Its principal rock is of clay- slate, similar to that of Skiddaw, covered by a large tract of peat earth, which is used for fuel in the adjacent hamlets, CONISTON FELL. The highest point of Coniston Fell is called The Old Man, from the pile of stones erected on its summit. It is 2577 feet in height, and has a good view of the rocky mountains, Scawfell and Bowfell, and, at a distance, the highest point of Skiddaw. Coniston Lake is seen in full proportion, with a part of Windermere. Two tarns ap- pear upon the mountain — the smaller called Low "Water, though on a higher level, the larger Levers Water — and on the western side of the hill, but not seen from the summit, is Gates Water, lying at the foot of the pre- cipitous Dow Crag. Standing open to the south, un- incumbered by other mountains, the Old Man commands a complete view of all the fine bays and estuaries of the 60 CONISTON FELL, Lancashire and part of the Cumberland coasts — the Isles Walney and Man — and over the mouth of the river Duddon, on a favourable day, Snowdon and its neigh- bouring mountains may sometimes be distinguished. Beginning to ascend at the Black BuU, near Conis- ton Church, you meet on your left a stream abounding in pretty vs^aterfalls ; the copper mines near Levers Water, and slate quarries between Low Water and the summit, can be seen by the way; and the descent may be made, at choice, more in front of the mountain. Those who admire a lengthened mountain excursion, may begin the ascent at FeUfoot, in Little Xangdale, and surmounting the Carrs and the Old Man, descend to Coniston. The summit of the hill, like the quarries on its sides, is of a fine, pale blue, roofing slate. In some places a hard felspathic rock abounds ; and between this and Coniston Church, on the western side of the stream, the commencement of the darker slate, belonging to what is now called the Silurian system, may be observed. FAIRFIELD — 2950 feet above the level of the sea — makes a fine mountain excursion from Ambleside, commencing the ascent at Rydal, encircling Rydal-head, and returning to Ambleside by Nook End. Lakes and Tarns to the number of ten, may be enumerated in this excursion ; namely, UUswater, Windermere, Esthvi^aite, Coniston, Grasmere, and Rydal lakes ; and Elterwater, Blelham, Easdale, Codale, and Grisedale tarns : oftener than once, may eight of them be reckoned from one station. Here is likewise a good view of the difi^erent creeks and inlets of the sea towards Lancaster and Ulverston. ( 61 ) LANGDALE PIKES, Called Pike of Stickle, and Harrison Stickle, are by their peculiar form distinguished at a great distance. They afford some good views to the south-east: but being encompassed on other sides by higher mountains, the prospect is somewhat limited. Harrison Stickle, the higher, is 2400 feet above the level of the sea : it is more easily ascended, and has the better prospect to- wards Rydal and Ambleside; but the Pike of Stickle has the advantage of catching, through an opening in the hills, a more perfect view of the lake of Bassenthwaite, and the mountain Skiddaw — from both of which Har- rison Stickle is nearly excluded by the interposition of higher lands. HIGH STREET Seems to have taken its name from an ancient road which appears as a broad green path over this mountain. It is probably the highest road ever formed in England, being 2700 feet above the level of the sea. On account of its central situation, between the vales of Patterdale, Martin- dale, Mardale, Kentmere, and Troutbeck, and being connected vvath others at a little distance, an annual meeting was formerly held here, when the shepherds of the several vales reciprocally communicated intelhgence of such sheep as might have strayed beyond their proper bounds ; and to enliven the meeting, races and other diversions were instituted ; ale and cakes being supplied from the neighbouring villages. High Street affords some good prospects ; but being at a distance from any place of entertainment, it is seldom visited by strangers. Pedestrians, fond of mountain rambles, might, with a G 62 HIGH STREET. guide, pass over it from Patterdale into Troutbeck, or Kentmere; or into Mardale, and thence by Hawes Water to Bampton — from whence are roads to Pooley Bridge, Lowther, Penrith, and Shap. WANSFELL PIKE Stands near the junction of the green slate with the dark slaty limestone. It rises nearly 15G0 feet above Windermere Lake. This is a moderate elevation, com- pared with many of its neighbours ; yet it is not deficient in prospects. It affords excellent views of Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal lakes ; the tovms of Ambleside and Hawkshead, with the beautifully diversified scenery in the neighbourhood. Further distant are seen the sands of Milnthorp, Lancaster, and Ulverston, with the majes- tic mountains of Coniston and Langdale. In a walk from the Pike, towards Kirkstone, it is curious to observe Great Gable start out, as it were, from behind Langdale Pikes, and appearing to separate itself from them still further as the spectator makes his progress along this ridge. Wansfell may be conveniently visited either from Ambleside or Low Wood Inn : and a walk across the Troutbeck Hundreds, from the pubUc house, called the Mortal Man, to Skelgill, has been highly recommended. WHITELESS PIKE Is attached to the mountain Grasmoor, and rises with a steep ascent to the height of nearly 2000 feet above Buttermere. It commands excellent views of the three lakes of Buttermere, Crummock, and Loweswater ; with the summits of all the principal mountains from Hel- vellyn to those of Borrowdale, Wasdale, Ennerdale, and WHITELESS PIKE. 63 Buttermere. The Isle of Man is also in sight, and a considerable portion of the shires of Kirkcudbright and Wigton, in Scotland. LOUGHRIGG FELL Is easy of access from Ambleside, or from the public road between the Scroggs and Highclose. It is scarcely 1000 feet above Windermere, and 900 above Grasmere Lake ; and the moderate degree of exertion required to climb it, will be amply repaid by the prospects. It is just what might be wished in the place where it stands — high enough to command a view of the circumjacent vallies ; and not so lofty as to lessen the importance of the surrounding mountains. Every rocky knoll presents a new combination of scenery. Windermere, a fine ex- panse of water, with its ornamented banks ; the town of Hawkshead and its environs, with Blelham Tarn, and the irregularly- shaped Esthwaite Water; Loughrigg, with its Tarn, and Langdale with Elterwater ; the beautiful vales of Grasmere and Rydal, with their two lakes ; and the town and highly-embellished neighbourhood of Ambleside, are the lowland objects. The circumscribing mountains of Coniston, Langdale, Grasmere, Rydal, Ambleside, and Troutbeck, are at such eligible distances, that not only their elegantly- formed outlines, but also their varied surface of rock and verdure, can clearly be distinguished. Small portions of Coniston Water and Thirlmere are just sufficient to shew the places of those two lakes. The mountain Skiddaw seen over Dunmail Raise, and the top of Ingleborough in the direction of the Low Wood Inn, are extraneous objects beyond the common bounds of the panorama. 64 BEARINGS AND HEIGHTS Station I. — Scawfell Highest Point, The Pikes. Latitude 54° 27' 24" N. Longitude 3° 12' W. Height 3160 feet. Skiddaw Ingleborough, YorksMre Black Comb, Cumberland , . . Snowdon, Caernarvonshire , , . Holyhead Mountain, Anglesea. North Barule, Isle of Man . . . Slieve Donard, Ireland Mull of Galloway, Scotland. , . Burrow Head, Scotland Goat Fell, Arran Crif Fell, Scotland BEARINGS. 10° NE Distances in miles. 14 58 SE 38 19 SW 15 20 SW 103 37 SW 100 78 SW 49 80 SW 112 77 NW 68 68 NW 51 40 NW 116 26 NW 38 3022 2361 1919 3571 709 1804 2800 2900 1831 Station II. — Skiddaw. Latitude 54° 39' 12" N. Longitude 3° 8' 9" W, Height 3022 feet. Wisp Hill, near Mospaul Inn . . Carlisle Cheviot Hill, Northumberland . . Cross Fell, Cumberland Saddleback Nine Standards, Westmorland . . Ingleborough Helvellyn Black Comb Snowdon Snea Fell, Isle of Man Slieve Donard, Down Nearest Coast of Ireland Mull of Galloway Burrow Head Goat Fell, Arran Crif Fell Ben Lomond, Stirling Queensberry Hill , 9° 26 35 82 78 68 42 32 15 19 64 75 83 89 84 46 43 29 22 NE 45 NE 19 NE 70 NE 27 SE 4 SE 38 SE 46 SE 10 SW 29 SW 138 SW 59 SW 120 SW 96 NW 69 NW SO NW 109 NW 28 NW 122 NW 48 1940 2658 2901 2787 2136 236] 3070 1919 3571 2004 2800 2900 1831 3269 2259 OF MOUNTAINS. 65 Station III. — Helvelltn. Latitude 54° 31' 43" N. Longitude 3° 0' 21" "W. Height 3070 feet. Cheviot Cross Fell Stainmoor Ingleborough Bidston Lighthouse, Cheshire Garreg Mountain, Flintshire Old Man, Coniston Snowdon Black Comb Snea Fell Crif Fell BEAEINOS. DiBtaPCM in miles. 28° NE 75 60 NE 24 88 SE 34 45 SE 36 1 SW 79 8 SW 87 21 SW 12 24 SW 112 34 SW 22 74 SW 61 40 NW 38 2658 2901 2361 835 2577 3571 1919 2004 1831 Station IV. — Coniston Old Man. Latitude 54° 22' 20" N. Longitude 3° 6' 34" W. Height 2577 feet. Calf, near Sedhergh Great Whernside, Kettlewell .... Whernside, near Dent Pennygant Ingleborough Pendle Hill Lancaster Fleetwood Moel Fammau, Denbigh Peel Castle, or Pile of Fouldrey. . Carnedd Llewellyn, Caernarvon . . Carnedd David, Caernarvon Snowdon, Caernarvon Penmaen Mawr, Caernarvon .... Holyhead Mountain Black Comb Snea Fell Burrow Head Skiddaw g2 90° E 72 SE 71 SE 70 SE 64 SE 44 SE 31 SE 9 SE SW SW 23 SW 23 30' 23 40' 24 SW 41 SW 46 SW 84 SW 64 NW 4 NW 25 48 31 38 33 49 25 30 85 21 92 93 99 85 98 12 55 56 20 2188 2263 2384 2270 2361 1803 1845 3469 3427 3571 1540 709 1919 2004 3022 ( ee ) THE CRAGS. Well-formed overshadowing mountains make tlie lakes more attractive ; and rocks, by their endlesss variety of form, add diginity to the mountains. Some of the most remarkable of the Crags are — The Pniar, in Ennerdale ; Honister Crag, near Buttermere ; Scawfell Crags, between Wasdale Head and Eskdale ; Broad Crag on. the Wasdale side, and Broad Crag on the Eskdale side, of Scawfell Pikes ; Paveyark, in Langdale ; Rainsbarrow Crag, in Kentmere ; Saint Sunday Crag, in Patterdale; Nab Scar, near Rydal; Striding Edge, Helvjsllyn ; Sharp Edge, Saddleback ; Dead Crag, Skid- daw; Wallow Crag, near Keswick, and Wallow Crag, near Hawes Water; Wallowbarrow Crag, in the vale of Duddon ; Castle Crag, in Mardale, Castle Crag, in Bor- rowdale (said to have been a Roman Station), and Castle Head, near Keswick; Green Crag, in Legberthwaite, sometimes called the Enchanted Castle, or Castle Rock of St. John's ; Gait Crag [Goat Crag] , in Borrowdale, Gait Crag and Iron Crag, near Shoulthwaite, and Gait Crag in Langdale ; Dow Crag [Dove Crag] , in Coniston Fells, Dove Crags, in Patterdale, and Dow Crag, in Eskdale ; Bull Crag and Littledale Crag, in the vale of Newlands ; Eagle Crag, in Borrowdale, Eagle Crag, in Buttermere, and Eagle Crag, in Patterdale; Falcon Crag, near Derwent Lake ; and a Raven Crag in almost every vale : one of the most conspicuous of which is that overlooking Leathes Water. ( 67 ) DRUIDICAL CIRCLE, NEAR KESWICK. THE ANTIQUITIES. A Druidical Circle, 100 feet by 108 in diameter, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, at the top of the hill, a mile and half from Keswick. It is formed by rough cobble stones of various sizes, similar to what are scat- tered over the surface, and imbedded in the diluvium of the adjacent grounds. The largest stands upwards of seven feet in height, and may weigh about eight tons. Ten other stones form a square within, on the eastern side. LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. A monument of the same kind, but of far larger dimen- sions, called Long Meg and her Daughters, stands near Little Salkeld, seven miles N. E. of Penrith. This circle is 350 paces in circumference, and is composed of 67 massy unformed stones, many of them 10 feet in height. At seventeen paces from the southern side of the circle, stands Long Meg — a square unhewn column of red free- stone, nearly 15 feet in girth, and 18 feet high. 68 ANTIQUITIES. On the common called Burnbanks, near the foot of Hawes Water, there are five tumuli of earth, called Giants' Graves ; of the origin of which we have no tradition. KING ARTHUR'S ROUND TABLE. " Red Penrith's Table Roctnd, For feats of chivalry renown'd." — Sir W. Soott. King Arthur's Round Table is a circular plot of ground about 52 yards in diameter, encompassed by a trench and bank of earth; with places of entrance on two opposite sides. It is situated between the rivers Eamont and Lowther, rather more than a mile from Penrith, in an angle between the road to Kendal and that to Pooley Bridge. Mayburgh lies about a quarter of a mile distant from the last, between the river Eamont and the road to Pooley. An area of near one hundred yards in diameter is circumscribed by a mound, formed of an enormous quantity of pebble stones, apparently gathered from the adjoining lands — surmounted by a fence wall of more modern date, and shaded by lofty trees. There is an entrance on one side, and near the centre stands a rough porphyritic stone about 10 feet in height, and 16 in ANTIQUITIES. 69 circumference. The dates and piirposes of these two interesting pieces of antiquity are left entirely to con- jecture. MAYBURGH. " Mayburgh's mound and stones of power, By Druids raised in magic hour." — Scott. A plot of ground near the foot of Devoke Water ex- hibits traces of numerous buildings in the form of streets. It is called the city of Barnscar. Upon the summits of Grasmoor, Binsey, and Car- rock Fells, there are remains of basin-shaped cavities, walled round, and apparently intended as Beacons. The Beacon, standing in the centre of a large plantation on Penrith fell, is a more modern erection of hewn stone, having been rebuilt in 1719, and commands extensive views of the country. On the west side of the mountain Hardknot, a space about two acres is encompassed by the remains of a wall, with places of entrance on each vo ANTIQUITIES, of the four sides. There seem to have been towers at the different gates and corners, and several interior erec- tions. Stations, retaining the name of Castles, when scarcely a vestige of their works remains, are found in several places upon the mountains. They are generally charac- terized by pieces of freestone, which must have been brought from a distance of several miles, at a time when the roads were very imperfectly formed. Remains of Castles of a more permanent construction are to be seen at Kendal, Cockermouth, Egremont, KUTNS OP KENDAL CASTLE. Brougham, Penrith, and Dacre. Part of that at Cocker- mouth has been repaired, and is inhabited ; the one at Dacre is used as a farm house; the rest are in various stages of decay. Fiurness Abbey is situated in a narrow dell, in a fertile district of Lancashire, called Low Furness. It was founded in 1127, by Stephen, afterwards king of Eng- land, and involved in the general wreck of religious houses in 1537. The monks were of the Cistercian order, from Normandy. The church has been upwards of 300 feet in length, and the nave 74 in width; the length of the transept near 140 feet, its width 37, and ANTiaxJITIES. 71 the height of the side walls about 54 feet. The central tower is levelled with the side walls, and only one of its stupendous arches, nearly 60 feet high, left standing; yet enough remains to shew the style of architecture, and to give some idea of its former magnificence. A few years ago, the proprietor. Lord G. Cavendish, caused the rubbish to be cleared away: by which many pieces of sculpture were brought to light that had lain buried for centuries. CALDER ABBEY. Calder Abbey lies about four miles south of Egremont. It was founded by the second Ranulph de Meschines, about seven years after that at Furness — on which it was dependent — and on a much smaller scale. Some of the walls, with the arches which supported the tower, and a part of the colonnade, are still in good preserva- tion. On the banks of the river Lowther, about a mile west of Shap, may be seen some remains of an Abbey of still smaller dimensions; which was founded about the year 11 50. The tower is the chief part left standing. ( 72 ) EXPLANATION OF PROVINCIAL TERMS. Barrow, a term, often intended to signify an artificial hill, is also applied to natural ones. There is Barrow on the west side of Derwent Lake, a hill 1200 feet high; there is Whitbarrow near Penrith, and Whitbarrow near Witherslack ; Yewbarrow in Witherslack, and Yewbar- row in Wasdale. Latterbarrow explains itseK — a hill branching from the side of a mountain : we have Latter- barrow at the foot of Wast Water, and Latterbarrow in Ennerdale. Knot, a small rocky protuberance on the side of a mountain. Cop, a little round-topped hiU. Don is generally applied to a secondary elevation attached to one of the larger mountains ; and mostly having a rounded summit. There is the Dod on the western side of Skiddaw; another in front of Red Pike; and Starhng Dod, nearer Ennerdale. In the mountain range, proceeding north from Helvellyn, are Stybarrow Dod, Watson Dod, and Great Dod; and in Patterdale, Glenridding Dod, and Hartsop Dod. How generally implies a hill rising in a valley ; (the sides of such hUls are frequently ornamented with dwell- ings.) There is the How, half way between the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite ; Pouter How, at the head of Bassenthwaite lake, and Castle How, at its foot; Great How near Rosthwaite, and Great How near Leathes Water; the How and Butterlip How in Gras- mere, the How in Ennerdale, and the How near Lough- rigg Tarn, with several others. Numerous diluvial hiUocks of a parabolic form are found in the heads of EXPLANATION OF TEEMS. 73 several vales — in both the Langdales, in Greenup vale in. Borrowdale, and in the head of Ennerdale — where they are peculiarly interesting, especially to the geologist. Scab or Scaur, escarpment, a range of rock; most common in limestone districts. Screes, a profusion of loose stones, the debris of the rocks above, resting upon a declivity as steep as is pos- sible for them to remain ; so that the least disturbance in any part communicates a motion, somewhat between sliding and rolling, which frequently extends to a dis- tance, and takes some time before quiet is restored. Door, an opening between two perpendicular cheeks of rock: as Mickle Door — Coom Door — Low Door, modernized into Lowdore. Coom in some districts, and Cove in others, denotes a place scooped out of the side of a mountain ; there is Black Coom or Comb ; The Coom and Gillercoom, in Borrowdale: Keppel Cove, Brown Cove, Pted Cove, Ruthwaite Cove, and others, in the side of Helvellyn. Slack, a lesser hollow. Fell, the same as mountain, a large hill. Cam [comb] , the crest of a mountain, like that of a cock : as, Catsty Cam — Rosthwaite Cam. Man, a pile of stones on the summit of a hiR. Neese [nose], a ridge running from the summit of a mountain steeply downwards : as. Gavel neese — Ling- meU neese. The bill of a bird is called its "neb;" so neb, nab, KNAB, or sNAB, like ness, naze, or neese, means a pro- montory or projecting piece of land, either into a lake or from the end of a mountain. There are Landing Nab and Rawlinson's Nab on Windermere, Nab Scar above Rydal Water, Nab Crag in Wythbum, and in Patterdale; H 74 EXPLANATION OF TERMS. Bowness on Windermere; Bowness, Broadness, and Scar- ness, on Bassenthwaite lake; High Snab and Low Snab in the vale of Newlands. Hause, the throat, a narrow passage over a height between two mountains: as Esk-hause, Buttermere- hause. Thwaite is a common termination to names of places, and is understood by some to signify a piece of land en- closed and cleared. We have Rosthwaite, Longthwaite, Stonethwaite, and Seathwaite, in Borrowdale ; all which endings are locally pronounced long, as Rost-whait. Applethwaite near Windermere, and Applethwaite near Keswick; Brackenthwaite in Cumberland; Satterthwaite and Seathwaite in Lancashire; are aU usually pronounced short, as Apple -thet. Grange, a farm or habitation near the water; as Grange in Borrowdale, Grange in Bampton, Grange in Cartmel, and Marsh Grange on the river Duddon. Holm or Holme, an island, or a plain by the water side. Kell, or Keld, a spring of water. Wath, a ford across a river. Syke, in provincial dialect, is a stream of the smallest class : as Heron- Syke, near Burton — dividing the coun- ties of Westmorland and Lancashire. Gill (sometimes wrote Ghyll, to secure the hard sound of the G) is a mountain stream confined between steep banks, and running in a rapid descent. These giUs are in- strumental in enriching the vallies by the spoil of the mountains ; they contribute to the formation of a plot of superior land on the side of a valley ; or sometimes a low promontory sweeping with a bold curve into a lake. Beck is a term used promiscuously for river, rivulet, or brook ; it signifies a stream in the bottom of a vale, and EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 75 to which the gills are tributary. These becks receive a name from some dale, hamlet, or some remarkable place which they pass, and in their course the appellation is frequently changed; for instance, a stream running north from Bowfell, and receiving several augmentations in its progress down Borrowdale, is called Langstreth beck ; then Stonethwaite beck, Rosthwaite beck, and Grange beck, till it enters Derwent lake, thence it has the name of Derwent to Workington, where it falls into the sea. THE SEASON For visiting the lakes depends much upon the taste of the Tourist. They may be seen with pleasure at any time from the beginning of May to the end of October, provided the weather be favourable. Pedestrians will feel the month of May an agreeable season, and they will then find more room at the inns. Towards the end of June, many professional gentlemen are at liberty, and students at the Universities often find it advantageous to spend three months among the lakes ; thus blending in- struction withhealthy recreation. Large parties commonly require more time in fitting out, and are later in arrival : so that the most busy time is generally from the last week in July to the middle of September. The artist will prefer the richly diversified colouring of autumn, which wUl be in the greatest perfection in the month of October. To such as make the tour with a disposition to be pleased, every season has its peculiar charms. The budding spring, the blooming summer, the luxuriant 76 THE SEASON. autumn, and even the biting frosts of winter, have each their respective attractions. In spring, all nature is in her most cheerful mood : it is pleasing to observe the daily progress of the various kinds of trees as they spread out their leaves, and the different plants as they expand their blossoms; v^rhile the feathered choir enliven the air with their morning and evening songs. In the middle of summer, all is gay ; the heat of the sun may at times incommode, but the lengthened days will afford a few hours for retirement in the shade, and the evenings are free from the chilling blasts prevalent at other seasons- In autumn, the fields, the woods, and the mountain sides, display the most splendid variety of colouring, and the air is often favourable for distant prospects; but the days are somewhat contracted, and for long excursions more early rising is required. Even in winter, the lakes still exhibit the same expanse of water, or a glassy sheet of ice, admitting of the pleasing and healthful exercise of skating; the mountains — whether naked, or partially or wholly covered with a mantle of snow — still reign in their won- ted majesty; the rocks have lost nothing of their grandeur, and the waterfalls are occasionally rendered more striking by the splendent and fantastic forms in which their spray is congealed. But it should be kept in mind that more rain falls in mountainous than in open countries, and the showers come on more suddenly. The time of the tourist should, therefore, be so calculated as to allow him now and then a spare day; as there is a probability that the greatest part of a day will be sometimes of necessity spent within doors — when the museums, and exhibitions of natural and artificial curiosities, will be the principal resources. ( 77 ) GENERAL DIRECTIONS : WITH NOTICES OF THE MOST INTERESTING OBJECTS PASSED IN BACH ROUTE. STAGES. MILES. Lancaster (over Sands) to Ulverston 22 Lancaster to Milnthorp 14 Milnthorp to Newby Bridge 15 Newby Bridge to Ulverston 9 Ulverston to Hawkshead 16 Hawkshead to Bowness, by the Ferry 6 Ulverston to Coniston Waterhead 15 Coniston Waterhead to Bowness, by the Ferry 9 Coniston Waterhead to Ambleside 8 Milnthorp to Kendal 8 Milnthorp to Bowness, by Crosthwaite 14 Lancaster to Burton 11 Burton to Kendal 11 Kendal to Bowness 9 Bowness to Ambleside 6 Kendal to Low Wood Inn 12 Kendal to Ambleside 14 Bowness to Newby Bridge 8 Newby Bridge to Hawshead 9 Hawkshead to Ambleside 5 Low Wood Inn to Penrith 27 Low Wood Inn to Keswick 19 Ambleside to Patterdale 10 Ambleside to Penrith 25 Ambleside to Keswick 17 Keswick to Cockermouth 13 Cockermouth to Whitehaven, by Workington 16 Keswick to Penrith 18 Penrith to Carlisle 18 Keswick to Wigton 20 Wigton to Carlisle 11 H 2 78 ROUTES. In making the Tour of the Lakes, various routes present themselves, the choice of vi^hich must depend upon circumstances of taste, convenience, and mode of travelUng. Keswick and Ambleside are central points, from which the English Lakes and their surrounding vallies and mountains are generally visited. Keswick may be made head quarters for the Cumberland Lakes ; Ambleside, for those of "Westmorland and Lancashire. There are other places — as Bowness, Low Wood, Coniston Waterhead, Patterdale, and Pooley Bridge — where a few days might be spent very agreeably ; and a deviation to Shap Wells might be advantageous to health, as well as recreation; and in consequence of increased facilities for travelling, the Spaw at Gilsland might also be reached at a moderate sacrifice of time or expense. Tourists from the north may proceed from Carlisle by railway to either Wigton or Penrith. Carlisle to Wigton is 11 miles, Wigton to Keswick 20 miles. After leaving Wigton, there are some good views over the Solway Frith to the finely indented Scottish coast, and distant mountains; and further on, Bassenthwaite Lake, which some say should be first visited, is seen from the road — one of the richest views of the valley in which it is placed being from the top of a bank about four miles after leav- ing Ireby. There is also a good retrospective view about five miles before reaching Keswick. Having seen the vale of Borrowdale, the lakes of Derwent, Butter- mere, Crummock, Lowes Water, Ennerdale, and Wast Water, the mountain Skiddaw, and other objects to be visited from Keswick, the routes to which will be detailed hereafter, proceed by Thirlmere, stopping at Wythburn to ascend Helvellyn, if that be concluded on ; then by Grasmere and Rydal to Ambleside. After making ex- ROUTES. 7& cursions from thence to Langdale, Loughrigg, and otlier places in the vicinity, proceed to Coniston; thence by Hawkshead and Esthwaite Water to the Ferry on Win- dermere, crossing to Bowness and Ambleside; from thence over Kirkstone to Patterdale, Ullswater, and Pooley Bridge, and Hawes Water, if that is to be in- cluded, and finish the tour at Penrith, or at Shap. Tourists arriving by railway at Penrith, may go first to Hawes Water, returning to Pooley Bridge; then by Ullswater to Patterdale, and over Kirkstone to Ambleside, Windermere, Coniston, Langdale, Rydal, and Grasmere, and over Dunmaii Raise to Keswick; from whence, after having made the recommended excursions, return by Threlkeld to Penrith. Or they may reverse the tour by, driving first to Keswick, and conclude with Ullswater or Hawes Water. Parties landing at Whitehaven, Workington, or Mary- port, with an intention of seeing all the lakes, and proceeding southwards, may go through Egremont to Calder Bridge, 10 miles; from thence by Gosforth to the Strands, 7 miles. At Strands there are two inns, and it is about a mile and a half further to the foot of the lake. Havina: seen Wast Water, return to Calder Bridge, and by Cold Fell, or by Egremont, to Ennerdale; and by Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere, to Keswick; and, progressively, to the rest of the lakes: — or they might first take Ennerdale and Wasdale, then go through Eskdale, and either over Hardknot and Wrynose, or over Walney Scar, or, according to the means of conveyance, by Broughton to Coniston ; and, to complete the circuit of the lakes, conclude with Buttermere, Crummock, and Lowes Water. To visitors from the south, various routes have been O^ STEAMERS AND RAILWAYS. formerly pointed out as radiating from Lancaster ; but by the introduction of steam, and the construction of railways, they have been all nearly superseded. From Preston a railway branches off to Fleetwood — a place which has in about a dozen years sprung up from little better than a rabbit warren, to a town of 3000 in- habitants, with splendid hotels, and wharfs, holding communication, by steam, with various parts of the United Kingdom. Steamers, occasionally from Liver- pool, and regularly from Fleetwood, after a pleasant voyage of about an hour, land passengers at a pier near Peel Castle; from whence a railway takes them by Furness Abbey to Dalton, where conveyances attend to convey them to Ulverston, and forward to the lakes. Close to the abbey is a station, and an hotel has been constructed for the accommodation of such as incline to explore the venerable ruin. From Newby Bridge, steamers on Windermere ply several times a day to Ambleside; calling at Bowness, and landing passengers at the Ferry Inn and Low Wood, if required ; or, after leaving the Abbey Station, might pursue the longer branch of the railway to Broughton, and thence by conveyance to Coniston Waterhead, 11 miles, having the lake in view for three miles, and forward to Ambleside. Railways, although they add nothing to the natural beauties of a country, and rarely conduct tourists to the .best points for viewing those scenes of which they are in quest, contribute gi-eatly to the facility of ap- proach to the verge of the district; and being set down at the most convenient station, parties are at hberty to form their excursions to intermediate places at pleasure. Now that the Lancaster and Carlisle Railway has been opened throughout, and the Kendal and Winder- LANCASTER. Si mere brought to Birthwaite, about a mile and a half from the lake at Bowness, it will be eligible to commence the survey with that Queen of Lakes. From the Ferry Inn, of which Professor Wilson says, " There is not a prettier place on all Windermere than the Ferry-House, or one better adapted for a honey moon," visit Coniston, (as at a subsequent page,) and from Ambleside, see Langdale and the vicinity. Then (as advised) proceed to Keswick; from whence see Borrowdale, Buttermere, Wasdale, Skiddaw, and other celebrated objects. Proceed to UUswater, through Gowbarrow Park, and fall upon the railway at Penrith ; or go by Lowther Castle, and join the railway at Clifton. Hawes Water may be visited from Pooley Bridge, most conveniently by pedestrians, who may turn off at Bampton Grange and meet the railway at Shap. LANCASTER Is a well-built town, with upwards of 14,000 inhabi- tants. It has a handsome stone bridge over the Lune, and, about a mile further up is a grand aqueduct by which the canal is conducted across the river. On the west of the town the railway passes over a stately viaduct ; the three principal arches constructed of timber, in a peculiar manner. The castle occupies a commanding situation ; it is used as the county gaol, and has spacious halls for the administration of justice; and from a turret, called John o' Gaunt's Chair, is a most extensive and beautiful prospect. An ancient Church, with a lofty tower, stands upon the same eminence ; and from some points of view appears as forming a part of the structure. The King's Arms, Royal Oak, and Commercial, are the principal Inns. 82 KIRKBY LONSDALE. The ancient coach road from Lancaster was either by Burton or by Milnthorp, to Kendal, each a distance of 22 miles. Opposite the village of Bolton, about two miles to the right, is a natural cavern, called Dunald Mill Hole. It is inferior in extent and grandeur to some in the West Riding of Yorkshire and in Derbyshire : but to those who have not an opportunity of visiting others, it may give some idea of the nature of these subterranean cavities. Warton Crag on the left, and Farlton Knot on the right of the road, are two stratified hills of limestone, rising to a considerable height : the latter said to be nearly 600 feet above the road. The quarries, where the immense blocks of stone used in the construction of bridges on the railway have been pro- cured, are worthy of notice. On the Milnthorp road, the waterfall at Beetham Mill attracts the notice of the traveller. Another line from Lancaster is up the Vale of Lune, and by Kirkby Lonsdale to Kendal. The distance is greater by 8 miles than that just mentioned ; but the drive up Lunesdale is much admired. LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON, OVER THE SANDS. MILES. MILES. 4 Hest Bank 4 10 Kent's Bank 14 2 Flookborough 16 1 Cark 17 3 Canal- foot 20 2 Ulverston 22 For such as travel by animal power to Furness Abbey, the shortest way is to cross the Lancaster and Ulverston Sands, which has by some been described as a very interesting ride. LANCASTER TO TJLVERSTON. 83 Flookborough is a village lying betwen the estuaries of the Kent and Leven ; it has two comfortable inns fitted for the reception of persons making use of a medicinal spring near Humphrey Head, two miles distant. This water is considered a mild and safe purgative; and, were suitable accommodations erected upon the spot, there would be no doubt of its becoming a place of consider- able resort. On the other hand is the small town of Cartmel, with its ancient Church ; between Flookborough and the Leven Sands, surrounded by a fine park, hes Holker Hall, the seat of the Earl of Burlington : and on the opposite shore of the Leven are the noble woods of Conishead and Bardsea. To avoid the sands, the crossing of which has in some instances been attended with danger, the more circuitous road by Milnthorp is generally preferred. From Lancaster to Milnthorp is 14 mUes by rail, and from this station to Newby Bridge is 15 by coach, and 9 more to Ulverston. After passing Heversham and Levens, the Ulverston road turns to the left over some large tracts of peat-moss, where the two isolated ridges of limestone, called Whitbarrow and Yewbarrow, may be observed on the right, as forming lofty scars towards the south and west, and reposuig upon the slaty rock of the neighbourhood. The first, from its abrupt termination, may be known at a great distance ; and the latter may be discerned from Skiddaw, with the water of the estuary appearing on each side. At Newby Bridge is the choice of continuing the Ulverston road, or proceeding along the banks of Win- dermere, by Bowness and Low Wood to Ambleside. The road to Ulverston now follows the course of the Leven to Backbarrow, where it crosses the river by a 84 tJLVERSTON. bridge situated among manufactory erections. Leav- ing Hollow Oak on the left, it passes over some peat- moss, and presently approaches the sands; where it is interesting to meet the flowing tide, as it washes against the breastwork of the road. The river Crake, which issues from Coniston Water, is then crossed by a bridge under which the tide flows, and we join the old road near a place called Green Odd; where small craft take in their lading, consisting chiefly of slate, timber, and iron. From Newby Bridge to Ulverston is 9 miles. ULVERSTON Is a neat market town, containing 5352 inhabitants, and two good inns, the Sun, and the Braddyll's Arms. It communicates with the channel of the Leven by a short canal admitting vessels of considerable burden. From Ulverston to Dalton is 5 mUes, and from Dalton to Furness Abbey (described in a former page,) nearly 2 miles. A mile west of the Abbey, from the top of Hawcoat, there is a prospect, over a richly cultivated country and a part of the sea, to a most extensive range of distant mountains : and from the more lofty station of Birkrigg, the view of Furness and the surrounding coast is singu- larly beautiful. Two miles from Ulverston is Conishead, generally called the Priory, a place highly extolled by Mr. West, who says, " It is a great omission in the curious traveller, to be in Furness and not to see so wonderfully pretty a place." Since then the mansion has been wholly rebuUt, and is indeed a splendid resi- dence. Ulverston is upon the slaty rock, Dalton upon mountain limestone ; and the valley in which Furness PUKNESS ABBEY, 85 Abbey is placed, is flanked by red sandstone, from which the Abbey has been built. Iron ore is procured in large quantities from veins in the limestone ; good specimens of red hematite are sometimes obtained, with specular iron ore and quartz crystals. Before the introduction of steamers on Windermere, it was usual, on leaving Ulverston for the Lakes, to com- mence with Coniston, and the road generally preferred leads by Lowick Chapel, where there is a good view of Coniston Lake, with the mountains at its head, and Helvellyn in the distance; and after crossing Lowick Bridge, it proceeds up the eastern side of the lake to Waterhead Inn, distant from Ulverston 15 miles. At Coniston, besides the views of the lake from its banks, and from its bosom in a boat, the lovers of land- scape beauties may find some pretty walks in the vales of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite. A full length view of the lake is obtaiued in passing over the hiU called Tarn- hows, on the road towards Elterwater; and an excursion to Levers Water, the copper mines, and the Old Man, on a fine day, would be very interesting. The geologist may occupy himself in tracing a stratum of transition limestone, alternating with slate, as it bassets out upon the hills, on the north-west of the road leading towards Borwick Ground; just beyond which place this lime- stone has been quarried and burnt, on the left of the road to Ambleside. The slate quarries about Tilber- thwaite, and the copper mines on TUberthwaite Fell, may also be visited ; and on the road to Ambleside, the Brathay flag- quarry may be considered worthy of notice. From Coniston, parties may proceed by Borwick Ground and Brathay to Ambleside, 8 miles ; or through Hawkshead, by the side of Esthwaite Water, to the »b KENDAL. Ferry Inn, where they will meet with accommodation ; and after taking a view of Windermere, from Mr. Cur- wen's Station-house, cross the water to Bowness, distant from Coniston Waterhead 9 miles ; or halt at the Ferry Inn, and thence proceed by the western banks of the lake to Ambleside, distant fromConiston by this route 14 mUes. Of parties who travel in carriages, some will proceed directly to Kendal, and from thence to Bowness, Low Wood, or Ambleside ; or for such as wish to enter at once upon the centre of Windermere, there is a shorter and less hilly road from Miln thorp to Bowness, through Crosthwaite and Winster, in one stage of 14 miles. From Milnthorp to Kendal is 8 nules : the road crosses the Kent near the ancient mansion of the Howards at Levens; and passes the castellated Hall at Sizergh, the family seat of the Stricklands, erected soon after the Conquest. KENDAL CASTLE— THE KEEP. KENDAL Is a clean and well-built town, of considerable trade, with a population of 12,000 inhabitants. It is situate at the junction of the Carlisle road by Penrith, with the Whitehaven road by Ambleside, Keswick, and Cocker- mouth. It is famous for the manufacture of various kinds of woollen goods and fancy waistcoats. Here i» KENDAL. 87 a marble manufactory, where several varieties of the limestone of the country, as well as foreign marbles, are worked and polished. The remains of an ancient Castle, formerly the residence of Queen Catherine Parr, the sixth and last consort of Henry VIII., stand upon a verdant hill on the east side of the town, which commands an extensive view over the river, the town, and adjacent country; bounded by noble ranges of mountains. On a mount on the other side of the town is an obelisk in memory of the revolution in 1688. This mount — Castle How Hill, or Castle Law Hill — vulgarized into Cassy-co Hill — was it is said the place where, in times long gone by, justice was administered. The King's Arms and Commercial are the principal Inns. The Kendal and Windermere Railway, branching oif from the Lancaster and Carlisle at Oxenholme, two miles south of Kendal, has a station on the east side of the town ; and proceeds from thence to Birthwaite, eight miles and a quarter. Hawes Water may be visited from Kendal, on horse- back or by pedestrians, through Kentmere or Long- Sleddale: the latter has been described with a high degree of colouring in some former publications; but in planning an excursion, several things are to be taken into consideration — as, what kind of conveyance the road will admit of, how that conveyance is to be sup- plied, and at what places refreshment may be obtained Long-Sleddale is a valley possessing all the requisites of meadows, woods, mountains, rocks, and waterfalls ; but they are deficient in that harmony of composition which renders some of the more northern vallies so attractive to the tourist. The road over Gatescarth, between Branstree and Harter Fell, is steep on both sides, yet such as a horse 88 MARDALE. may be ridden, or possibly a cart may pass ; and from the highest part there is an extensive view towards the sea. The way from Kentmere, over Nan Bield, between Harter Fell and High Street, is still more difficult. Mardale Green, to which the road descends, is about 15 miles from Kendal, and the same from Penrith ; it is bounded by the mountains Branstree, Harter Fell, and High Street. From the last of which a narrow ridge, called Long Stile, projects so far as to seclude it from the other part of the valley; and beyond this rises the apex of Kidsey Pike. Here are two or three dwellings, one of which is a public-house ; and the Dun BuU, on Mardale Green, wiU be no alarming or unwelcome object to the weary traveller. KENDAL TO HAWES WATER, BY SHAP. Three miles before reaching Shap, the railway, upon a lofty embankment, passes the Shap Wells Hotel, lying at a short distance on the left. The house is weU fur- nished, and fitted up with baths and every accommoda- tion for the different classes of visitors, and is much frequented. The water has been analyzed by Dr. Al- derson, in conjunction with Dr. Fyfe, and is designated as a most genial and sanative saline spring ; milder than the Harrogate Purgative Spaw, more active than the Gilsland Water, and in its properties nearly allied to that of Leamington. Although the railway passes vdthin a few hundred yards of the place, it is rather annoying to parties intending a sojourn, that there is no station nearer than Shap at which they can alight; and they are obliged to return, as it were, by some other convey- ance for four miles. HAWES WATER. 89 Parties for Hawes Water go from Shap to Bampton Grange — four miles of indifferent carriage- road, and two mUes more to the foot of Hawes Water — and if the route is extended to the head of the lake and Mardale Green, it will add another four miles ; and it will then be, by the carriage-road, about 14 miles to Pooley Bridge, or 16 to Penrith. On foot or on horseback, by passing over Moor Do- vack, the distance to Pooley Bridge may be reduced two miles. KENDAL TO BOWNESS AND AMBLESIDE. To Bowness is 9 miles, to Low Wood Inn 12, and to Ambleside 14 miles. Both these roads lead over elevated ground, from whence, looking towards the west and north-west, a most splendid arrangement of mountains is presented to the view, as delineated at page 6. On the north and east may be seen the Rydal, Troutbeck, Kentmere, and Howgill Fells ; south-west. Black Comb ; and south- east, the distant table-land of Ingleborough. Now that tourists from all parts of the kingdom can be brought by railway to the terminus of the Kendal and Windermere at Birth waite — where the Windermere Hotel, on an elevated position, claims especial notice ; being within a mile and a half of the centre of the lake, and conveyances attend the trains three times a day to conduct passengers to the inns — BOWNESS Is the place generally chosen for a commencement of what may be truly called " The Tour of the Lakes." I 2 90 BOWNESS. Bowness is situated upon a fine bay of Windermere, which is literally crowded with boats of various descrip- tions ; and, among others, a neat steamer enters the bay several times a day, during the summer months, for the conveyance of passengers alternately to the north and south ends of the lake. The walls of the houses and gardens are beautifully decorated with evergreens and flowers. The White Lion has, since the visit of Queen Adelaide, in 1840, been designated The Royal Hotel; it has extensive accommodations, with a neat flower garden and elevated grass-plot adjoining. The Crown is beau- tifully situated upon a rising ground overlooking the village, and is equally spacious. The Stag's Head stands near the Church-yard. Near the Crown Inn, and on a site equally elevated, stands an elegant school-house, erected in 1836 by the late Colonel Bolton. The Church possesses some painted glass, said to have been brought from Furness Abbey ; and its cemetery contains the remains of the late Bishop Watson. Near Bowness are eminences of various degrees of elevation, allowing the lake with its environs to be viewed from a higher or lower station at pleasure. Bis- cuit How is a rocky elevation just above the village ; over which, with its church, it has a perfect view ; the boats riding at anchor in the bay, the principal islands, and a prospect of the water extending north and south towards both ends of the lake. From the front of the school there is likewise a comprehensive view ; and as- cending above the Crown Inn to Post Knot, a small projection from Brantfell, now surrounded by trees, the view is enlarged ; and from the summit of Brantfell it is still more extensive and more interesting. Since the opening of the Railway, in April, 1847, it BOWNESS. 91 has been found that the houses existing in Bowness were quite insufficient for the increasing population, as well as greatly deficient in accommodation for the numerous visitors, which the railway has been instrumental in drawing to the place : in consequence, new buUdings have risen up in a way of which the residents a few years ago could have had no conception ; and, to meet the requirements of an increasing population, a neat Chapel has been erected near to the terminus of the railway at Birthwaite, by the Rev. J. A. Addison, who has also built a handsome residence on a delightful eminence adjacent. " Saw you ever banks and braes and knolls so bedropt with human dwellings ? There is no solitude about Windermere. Here in amicable neighbourhood are halls and huts — here rises through groves the dome of the rich man's mansion, and there the low roof of the poor man's cottage, beneath its one single sycamore."* BOWNESS TO ESTHWAITE WATER AND CONISTON. MILES. MILES. 2 Cross Windermere to Ferry House 2 4 By Esthwaite Water to Hawkshead 6 3 Coniston Waterhead 9 3 Berwick Ground 12 5 Ambleside 17 Coniston Lake and its environs may be visited from Bowness ; first crossing the Ferry on Windermere, and passing beneath The Station, which is built upon a rock, tastefully ornamented with evergreens and flowering shrubs, and may be visited by the way. Ascending a long steep hill, there is a retrospect across the lake, * Wilson. 92 BOWNESS. backed by the wooded heights of Cartmel Fells. At the top of the hill there is a prospect of the Coniston mountains ; and a mile further on, Bowfell and Langdale Pikes appear in magnificent array. There are some neat houses in the hamlet of Sawrey ; and Esthwaite Lodge is a beautiful seat on the other side of the water. Here are sweet views over the expanded valley in which the town of Hawkshead is placed, with its church upon an elevated site. The road passes on the margin of Es- thwaite Water, where the Coniston, Langdale, and Grasmere mountains may be seen ; and, when less ob- structed by trees, the easternmost point of Skiddaw could be seen through the gap of Dunmail Raise, with Seat Sandal, Helvellyn, and Fairfield to the right hand. Passing through the little market town of Hawkshead, where conveyances are kept at the Red Lion, the road hes over high grounds, and has a steep descent to the inn at Coniston Waterhead, distant from Bowness 9 miles. Round the head of the lake there is a beautiful admixture of wood and grass lands, swelling in fine undulations. By taking a boat half way down the lake, its principal beauties are unfolded ; and the return may be made by the head of Wmdermere to Ambleside, 8 miles ; but it would add great variety to the excursion to return by Wray and Belle- Grange, along the side of Windermere Lake to the Ferry Inn, 10 miles. LOW WOOD INN Is a convenient place to take a boat upon the lake of Windermere, and the high ground above it commands excellent views. A pleasing excursion, on foot, may be made by taking the turnpike road towards Ambleside, LOW WOOD INN. 93 about a mile and a half, to Low Fold, where a road turns off, ascending to High Skelgill, thence by Low SkelgiU, to the Troutbeck road, by which return to Low Wood ; in the whole about five miles. From High Skelgill the walk might be extended to Wansfell Pike. From a place near the junction of the SkelgUl and Troutbeck roads, may be observed one of the most enchanting scenes among the lakes — comprehending the most per- fect view of all the islands on Windermere, separated by the most desirable spaces — the lake spread out into beautiful bays, and its shores ornamented with elegant villas, planted on various elevations. Excursions may also be made from Low Wood to Coniston, to Langdale, or over Kirkstone to Ullswater. Here, whUe the admirer of landscape takes his views of the lake and mountain scenery from the rising ground, and the angler amuses himself upon the water, the geo- logist may be employed in examining the position of the transition limestone and the slate, where they have been worked, in two adjoining quarries near the road, about a quarter of a mile north of the inn. AMBLESIDE Is an ancient chartered town, with a population of 1100; but its market is little more than nominal. It is irregu- larly built, upon a rising ground, commanding good prospects of the adjacent scenery. The Salutation and Commercial are the principal Inns; there are other public houses that accomodate travellers; besides several houses fitted up as private lodgings. Boats upon the lake Windermere are also provided by the inns ; and convey- ances attend the railway trains, and steamer. ( 94 ) Ia(. BRIDGE HOUSE, AMBLESIDE. FROM AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE. MILES. MILES. 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 2 Colwith Cascade 5 3 Blea Tarn 8 3 Dungeon Gill 11 2 Langdale Chapel Stile 13 5 By High Close and Rydal to Ambleside. ... 18 The Langdale excursion from Ambleside or Low Wood, presents a variety of lake and mountain scenery, scarcely to be equalled in a journey of the same length during the whole tour. It was formerly performed chiefly on horseback, but carriages adapted to the road can now be obtained, and are more frequently employed. Passing Clappersgate, the party may either proceed with the river on the left, to Skelwith Bridge ; or, crossing Brathay AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE. 95 Bridge, take the river on the right, by Brathay Chapel and Skelwith Fold ; the latter route may be recom- mended to pedestrians. At Skelwith Bridge is a public- house, and, a little further up the river, a capacious ■waterfall ; but the road by Skelwith Fold, being on a higher elevation, commands a fuller view into Great Langdale. After the junction of the two roads, there is a view of Elterwater. The road entering Lancashire at Brathay, or at Skelwith Bridge, re-enters Westmorland at Colwith Bridge ; a little above which is a splendid cascade. After passing Little Langdale Tarn, the ancient pack-horse road, from Kendal to Whitehaven over Wry- aose, takes the left hand ; the one to be pursued turns to the right, ascending the common to Blea Tarn ; near to v/hich the Langdale Pikes exhibit their most magnificent contour. Leaving the tarn and the solitary farm-house • — the scene of Wordsworth's " Recluse" — on the left, proceed to the edge of the hill, where you wUl have a nne view of the head of Great Langdale, into which the road steeply descends. A stream issuing between the two Pikes, and falling among broken felspathic rocks, constitutes the noted waterfall called Dungeon Gill. At Middlefell Place the horses may be left; and a guide procured to the Fall or the Pikes. Mill Beck, the stream flowing from Stickle Tarn, gives name to two farm- houses, at one of which similar accommodation may be obtained. Following the road down Great Langdale, the traveller will arrive at Thrang Crag, where the rock in a slate-quarry is excavated in an awful manner ; and soon after pass the chapel, near which is a small ale-house. Here parties on horseback, taking the road to the left, come to a second prospect of Elterwater ; and near the farm-house called High Close, there is a fine view over 96 EXCURSIONS. Loughrigg Tarn, with Windermere in the distance; then crossing a road leading from Skelwith Bridge, we come in sight of the peaceful vale of Grasmere, near the sta- tion recommended by Mr, West. The road from thence is formed along the skirts of Loughrigg Fell, in a kind of terrace, from whence there is a rich view of the lake and vale of Grasmere on the left. Further on, the road approaches Rydal Water ; and soon after passing that and the village of Rydal, the turnpike road is joined, and in a mile more, the excursion is concluded at Am- bleside, after a most pleasing circuit of eighteen mUes. Parties in carriages are obliged to hold to the right from the chapel to the gunpowder works ; then to the left towards Loughrigg Tarn ; and from thence by Clappers- gate to Ambleside. A variety of shorter excursions may be made from Ambleside : a walk of seven hundred yards from the inn to the waterfall of Stock GUI should not be neg- lected; and one of a mile and a half may be taken to the falls of Rydal. A ramble round the lakes of Rydal and Grasmere — round or over Loughrigg Fell — a more ele- vated walk to Wansfell Pike — or the still more lofty circuit of Fairfield, on a favourable opportunity — wUl not fail to please such as dehght in extensive prospects. Those who have not already seen Coniston, may take an excursion thither; and UUswater may also be visited from hence, by the steep carriage-road over Kirkstone. Some who travel on horseback may choose a ride over the mountains Wrynose and Hardknot, through the vale of Eskdale to the Strands in Nether Wasdale, about 24 miles; and next day by Wast Water, Styhead, and Borrowdale, to Keswick, 20 miles. ( ^1 ) MILLS AT AMBLESIDE. AMBLESIDE TO LOUGHRIGG FELL, AND LOUGHRIGG TARN. It is a pleasant stroll for a pedestrian through the fields to Miller Bridge, from whence a path leads over the lower part of the fell. After reaching the open common, a tourist of taste will not be confined to the path, but, by rambling from knoll to knoll, will obtain a most pleasing variety of prospects ; and on reaching the top of Ivy Crag, a large rock overlooking Loughrigg Tarn, he wiU have an instantaneous burst upon a most extraordinary assemblage of landscape beauties. Re- turning from the top of the rock, and proceeding by the path, he wiU soon perceive Loughrigg Tarn in the best position for a picture ; having Langdale Pikes in the distance. Leaving Loughrigg Tarn on the right hand, he may follow the road towards Grasmere, past the house called Scroggs, till he gain a sight of Grasmere Lake ; then turning ofi" to the right, he will enjoy the beautiful views of Grasmere and Rydal, from the terrace K 98 DUNGEON GILL, road mentioned in a former page ; and for such as have not included this part of the road in a former excursion, it may be highly recommended; a walk altogether of about seven or eight miles. Or, on leaving Ivy Crag, he may traverse over the highest part of the fell, and make the descent towards Rydal. Those who travel in carriages, may go by Clappers- gate, leaving Loughrigg Tarn and Grasmere Lake on the right hand, and Grasmere Church on the left ; re- turning on the eastern side of the two lakes, by the hamlet of Rydal to Ambleside ; an excursion of ten miles. If required, a deviation maybe made to Skelwith Force, or into Great Langdale, as far as MiUbeck and Dungeon Gill, of which a recent visitor observes, " The most curious feature of Dungeon Ghyll is two huge rocks, which appear to have been rolling down simul- taneously from the Pikes above, and to have met and jammed together across the top of the chasm, forming a bridge, which it is a favourite feat with adventurous spirits to cross over." Another hypothesis, with rather less of imagination and more of probability, is, that these twin blocks were left in their original position, as now seen, when by some unexplained force the subjacent rock was scattered below. AMBLESIDE TO ULLSWATER. MILES. MILES. 4 Top of Kirkstone 4 3 Kirkstone Foot 7 3 Inn at Patterdale 10 This is a very steep carriage- road, rising 1300 feet from Ambleside, and falling 900 feet on the other side. This hill has taken its name of Kirkstone from a de- AMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND WASDALE. 99 tached mass of rock, standing at a little distance from the road, and bearing some resemblance to the form of a house. Near the summit is a public-house, called the Traveller's Rest, said to be the highest dwelling in England. The road passes close to the edge of Brothers Water, which in character approaches that of a lake, although its dimensions are not greater than some of the mountain tarns : the level meadows on the further side are bordered by native woods, surmounted by pre- cipitous rocks; the road then leads through a narrow but pleasant valley to the inn at Patterdale. Here a boat may be taken upon UUswater, after which the re- turn may be made the same way; or from Patterdale the carriage may be driven along the side of Ullswater to Penrith, 15 mUes. Or it may sometimes be preferred to stop at Pooley Bridge, from whence Lowther Castle and Hawes Water may be visited. Or turning to the left in Gowbarrow Park, by Matterdale, Hutton Moor, and Threlkeld, to Keswick, 19 miles. AMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND WASDALE. MILES. MILES. 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 li Colwith ii 2i Fellfoot 7 2 Top of Wrynose 9 2 Cockley Beck 11 4 Dawson Ground, Wool Pack 15 3i King of Prussia 18i 3 Santon Bridge 21^ 2i Strands, Nether Wasdale 24 This tour may be made on horseback, or, with some little difficulty, in a cart; taking the road to Little Langdale, as before described, and following the old 100 AMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND WASDALE. pack-borse road over Wrynose and Hardknot, both of whicb bills are very steep. Near tbe road on Wrynose are tbe tbree shire stones of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire. From Westmorland we here pass into Lancashire ; and crossing the head of the Duddon at Cockley Beck, we enter into Cumberland. From the top of Hardknot there is a view of tbe sea, and the Isle of Man in the horizon ; and half way down tbe hiU on tbe right, are the ruins of a place called Hardknot Castle ; but having been built without mortar or cement, scarcely any part of the walls are left standing. The small river Esk winds along a narrow valley, among verdant fields, surmounted by rugged rocks, and about a mile and a half down the valley is a public-house, formerly the sign of the Wool Pack, about 15 miles from Ambleside. On the left hand, in travelling down the valley, there are two remarkable cascades. The first is seen from the road; but the other, which lies beyond the chapel, requires a walk of more than half a mile to view it. From the hamlet of Bout, a dim track leads over Burnmoor to Wasdale Head ; but the road should be kept nearly to Santon Bridge, when it turns off to the right, to the Strands at Nether Wasdale ; where there are two pubhc-houses. After seeing Wast Water, par- ties on horseback may go over Styhead, and through Borrowdale, to Keswick; but with a cart, it wUl be necessary to go by Gosforth to Calder Bridge, from thence by Ennerdale Bridge, or by Egremont, to Lamp- lugh and Scale Hill, and thence either by Buttermere or Lorton to Kesvsdck. Sometimes this excursion has been varied, by returning from Wasdale, by Ulpha, to Brough- ton, and thence by Coniston to Ambleside. ( 101 ) AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. MILES. MILES, li Rydal 1^ 3 Grasmere Inn 4^ 4 Nag's Head, Wythburn 8^ 2-1- King'sHead U 6 Keswick 17 The route from Ambleside to Keswick lies through the midst of lake and mountain scenery. At one mile from Ambleside, a road crossing Pelter Bridge, on the left, leads to Langdale, or round Loughrigg Fell. To the right, among ancient oaks, stands Rydal Hall, the patrimonial residence of Lady le Fleming, who has built and endowed a neat chapel in the village. Above the chapel is Rydal Mount, the residence of Wordsworth, the poet-laureate, and beyond the hall the Rydal Water- falls. Next is Rydal Water, with the heronry upon one of its islands ; and a little further the extensive slate quarry of Whitemoss. The road is then conducted to the margin of Grasmere Water, and gives a good view of that admired vale. At the further end of which, between the branches of Easdale and Greenburn, stands Helm Crag, distinguished, not so much by its height, as by its summit of broken rocks, which Mr. Gray likens to " some gigantic building demolished ; " Mr. West, to "a mass of antediluvian ruins;" Mr. Green, to the figures of a "lion and a lamb;" Mr. Wordsworth, to an "astrologer and an old woman cowering;" Mr. Budworth, to a " number of stones jumbled together after the mystical manner of the Druids ;" Mrs. RadclifFe says, " Helm Crag rears its crest — a strange fantastic summit, round, yet jagged and splintered;" and the traveller who views it from Dunmail Raise, may think that a mortar elevated for throwing shells into the valley, K 2 102 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. would be no unapt comparison. A road turns off on the left to the church, near which stands the ancient Red Lion Inn, respectably kept by Robert Newton and Sarah his wife, in 1792, when Captain Budworth and his friend on "a fortnight's ramble to the Lakes" had a bespoke dinner at tenpence a head.* The Hollins, or Lowther Hotel, a recent conversion from a gentleman's villa, stands upon a verdant slope, a little distance from the turnpike road ; and the Swan is upon the road about four miles and a half from Ambleside. By taking quarters for a few days at one of the inns, or for a few weeks at private lodgings, the time may be agreeably occupied in prying into the nooks and comers in and around Grasmere. The long hill of Dunmail Raise is next to be ascended. It rises to the height of 750 feet above the level of the sea; and yet it is the lowest pass through a chain of mountains which extends from Black Comb, on the south- ern verge of Cumberland, into the county of Durham. Having overcome the steepest part of the road, Skiddaw bes-ins to shew his venerable head in the distance ; and here is a retrospect over Grasmere vale, and through a vista of mountains, extending as far as Hampsfield Fell, near the sands of Lancaster. At the highest part of the road, a wall separates the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland ; and a large heap of stones, called Dunmail Raise,t is said to be the cairn or sepulchre of Dunmail, last * For the information of landlords, and the benefit of tourists, we are tempted to give the bill of fare on this occasion : " Roasted pike, stuffed— A boiled fowl— Veal cutlets and ham— Beans and bacon— Cabbage— Pease and potatoes— Anchovey sauce— Parsley and Butter— Plain butter— Butter and cheese— Wheat bread a.nd oat cake— Three cups of preserved gooseberries, with a bowl of rich cream in the centre — for two people, at ten pence a head." f " A great heap or raise of stones." — Burn. SAINT John's vale. 103 king of Cumberland, who was defeated here by the Saxon monarch, Edmund, about the year 945. The lake Thirl- mere, or Leathes' Water, now comes in view, and the road passes between the inn and the chapel of Wythbum; about eight miles and a half from Ambleside, and the same distance from Keswick. The mountain Helvellyn is now upon the right; but the road lies so near its base, that the full height of the mountain cannot be seen. After passing a little way upon the margin of the lake, we come to another steep ascent, where Armboth House, formerly the residence of Mr. Jackson, on the other side of the water, is a good object. Dalehead Hall, the ma- norial seat of Mr. Leathes, stands on this side of the water, but is hid from us by an intervening hill. Having passed the summit, there is a delightful view through the vale of Legberthwaite, with its prolongation of Fornside, and Wanthwaite — together constituting what is com- monly called St. John's Vale — beyond which the lofty Saddleback, with its furrowed front, closes the scene. " The narrow valley of Saint John, Down sloping to the western sky. Where lingering sunbeams love to lie." — Scott. There is a pubhc-house at the King's Head, six miles from Keswick, and a road turns off on the right towards Threlkeld, passing under the massive rock of Green Crag, sometimes called the Castle Rock of St. John's — the scene of Sir Walter Scott's romantic poem, " The Bridal of Triermain." Near this, a tremendous thunderstorm, in 1749, swept away a mill, and so buried one of the millstones amongst the ruins that it has never yet been discovered. The Keswick road inclines to the left, and, surmounting 104 PENRITH. the cultivated ridge called Castlerigg, there is a full view of Derwent Lake, with part of that of Bassen- thwaite, the town and vale of Keswick, with its sur- rounding mountains. It was here that Mr. Gray, on leaving Keswick, found the scene so enchanting, that he " had almost a mind to have gone back again." PENRITH Is a good market town, with 6561 inhabitants. It is a considerable thoroughfare, being situated at the junction of the Yorkshire and Lancashire roads to Carhsle and Glasgow. The principal inns are the Crovra. and the George. From Penrith to Alston Moor is 20 mUes, to Appleby 14, to Carhsle 18, to Kendal by Shap 27, to Keswick 18. UUswater may be visited from Penrith, going either by Eamont Bridge and Tirrel, or by Dalemain, to the inn at Pooley Bridge, 6 mUes ; with carriages, the former road is generally preferred. Pooley Bridge is a desirable station for the lovers of angling, or to take a boat for viewing the scenery of UUswater. During the first part of the voyage, the banks of the lake are cultivated, and adorned with seve- ral handsome villas ; the mountains, right and left, are humble ; but in front there is a full view of the " mighty Helvellyn." On the second reach of the lake, the mountains on the left malie a nearer approach, and the shore on the right becomes more wooded. The boat may proceed to the head of the lake at Patterdale, or by the way be landed at Lyulph's Tower, for the view of Airey Force ; from whence the third division, or head of the lake, appears surrounded by the lofty and romantic HAWES WATER. 105 mountains of Patterdale. Or the carriage may be driven by WatermUlock, and by the side of the lake through Gowbarrow Parks, by Lyulph's Tower, to the inn at Patterdale, distant from Penrith 15 miles. From Patterdale, either return the same way to Pen- rith, or by Brothers Water, and over the very steep pass of Kirkstone, to Ambleside, 10 miles; or otherwise turn off in Gowbarrow Park, by Dockray and Hutton Moor, to Keswick, 19 miles. It will be generally be found most convenient to visit Hawes "Water from Penrith, by way of Eamont Bridge ; turning to the right at Arthur's Round Table, to Askham, 5 mUes ; thence by Helton, and Butterswick, to Bamp- ton, nearly 5 more. From many parts of the road, the Castle and noble woods of Lowther, with the lofty lime- stone rocks of Knipe Scar, are important objects. Leaving Bampton Grange, with its church, on the left hand, two miles more bring us in sight of Hawes Water. Some will content themselves with travelling a couple of miles along the banks of the lake, and thence return to the Grange for refreshment. At this place there are two public-houses ; one of which has been rebuUt, and fitted up in a commodious manner. Those who wish to penetrate the hidden recesses of the mountains, may go the whole length of the lake, and afterwards pass the chapel of Mardale, which is a small bmlding closely embowered with yews and sycamores, its walls exhibiting some neat monumental inscriptions ; particularly one to the memory of one of its ministers, who died in 1799, having served the cure upwards of fifty years. Here the mountains seem to forbid all fur- ther progress ; but turning the end of the hill, the party will find an inn at Mardale Green ; from whence they 106 LOWTHER CASTLE. may either return the same way, or pass over the moun- tains to Long-Sleddale or to Kentmere. Having viewed the lake and its accompanying scenery, the party may either return to Penrith or meet the rail- way at Shap. But to such as make this excursion on foot, or on horseback, it will be found a pleasing variety to turn off the road, to the left, a little before arriving at Helton, and follow a track over the common called Moor Dovack, which affords a fine view of Ullswater and its neighbouring scenery; and at Pooley Bridge are two commodious inns, from whence the road may be taken by Dalemain to Penrith. Parties taking up their quar- ters for a few days at Pooley Bridge, may visit Hawes Water, and Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale, most conveniently from thence. LOWTHER CASTLE. This magnificent pile was erected by the late WiUiam Earl of Lonsdale. The first stone was laid in the month of January, 1802, and the buildings were so far com- pleted as to be partly occupied by the family in the summer of 1809. It is entirely of stone, of a beautiful rose-tinted white, exceedingly smooth and durable, ( 107 ) COCKERMOUTH Is a good market town, with 4935 inhabitants, It pos- sesses an ancient castle, has a handsome bridge over the river Cocker, which runs through the town to join the Derwent ; and the Globe is an inn furnished with every requisite accommodation for travellers. Parties from Cockermouth visiting the three lakes of Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere, will find it the most eligible way by Pardshaw, Mockerin, and Fangs ; by which the lake of Lowes Water is seen in combination with lofty mountains ; and the road from thence to Scale Hill affords excellent views of Crummock Lake, with the surrounding mountains. From Cocker- mouth to Scale Hni by this route is about 11 miles. After visiting Crummock and Buttermere, the party may either proceed through Newlands to Keswick, or return through the pleasant vale of Lorton to Cocker- mouth ; and next morning, by the side of Bassenthwaite Lake to Keswick. KESWICK. Having by different roads conducted the several par- ties to Keswick, it must be made head quarters for a while, to examine the curiosities of the place — to enjoy the rich scenery in its neighbourhood — and to make ex- cursions, some of a few hours, some of a day, and others perhaps of more than one day. Keswick has upwards of 2400 inhabitants. Woollen goods and black-lead pencils are the chief manufactures. The principal inns are the Royal Oak and Queen's Head ; there are other houses where parties may be accommo- 108 KESWICK. dated, besides many neatly furnished private lodgings. Here are two museums, exhibiting the natural history of the country, and numerous foreign curiosities : one was established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, and is still kept by the family ; the other by a daughter of the late Thomas Hutton, who died in 1831, at the age of 85 ; specimens of minerals are kept on sale at both. Mr. Wright has a good assortment of geological, mineralogi- cal, botanical, and marine specimens ; and Mr. Cooper, a brilliant collection of minerals — all on sale. A faith- ful Model of the Lake District, on a scale of three inches to a mUe, constructed and exhibited by Mr. FHntoft, is well deserving inspection. The Rock Harmonicon, a series of pieces of stone, collected in the neighbourhood, arranged in rows, and tuned to a musical scale by William Bowe, will astonish the ear of the auditor by the sweet tones given out by so uncouth an instrument. Circulating libraries are kept by the booksellers, Mr. Bailey and Mr. Ivison. Post-chaises, ponies, and jaunt- ing cars may be had at the inns, with experienced guides for excursions by land; and neat pleasure-boats, with intelligent boatmen, for the water. The town of Keswick is, with the adjacent valHes, included in the parish of Crosthwaite. The church, situated at the distance of three quarters of a mile from the town, is a prominent feature in the landscape ; and the tower commands an exquisite view of the valley and surrounding mountains. It is dedicated to St. Kenti- gern ; but the date of its erection is not known. The original leaden roof was removed in 1812, and a cover- ing of slate substituted. The interior was wholly re- newed in 1845, chiefly at the expense of Mr. Stanger, who laid out about £4000 in re-seatmg and carving, DR. SOUTHEY. 109 and in the insertion of a large window of stained glass : other windows have since been added by subscription. In the south aisle of the chancel a monument has been erected to the memory of the late Dr. Southey, poet-laureate, at the expense of £1,100, raised by contribution. The recumbent figure is sculptured in beautiful Carrara marble : the tomb is of Caen stone. The west end bears the following inscription : TO THE MEMORY OF ROBERT SOUTHEY, WHOSE MORTAL REMAINS ARE INTERRED IN THE ADJOINING CHURCHYARD. HE WAS BORN AT BRISTOL, AUGUST XII. M.DCC.LXXIV. AND DIED, AFTER A RESIDENCE OF NEARLY XL YEARS, AT GRETA HALL, IN THIS PARISH, MARCH XXI. M.DCCC.XLIII. THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED BY FRIENDS OF ROBERT SOUTHEY. At the east end of the tomb are the following lines, from the pen of his venerable friend, the present Poet ■ laureate : Ye Vales and Hills, whose beauty hither drew The Poet's steps, and fixed him here, on you His eyes have closed ! And ye, loved Books, no more Shall Southey feed upon your precious lore. To Works that ne'er shall forfeit their renown Adding immortal labours of his own — Whether he traced historic truth, with zeal For the State's guidance or the Church's weal. Or fancy, disciplined by studious art. Informed his pen, or wisdom of the heart. Or judgments sanctioned in the Patriot's mind By reverence for the rights of all mankind. Wide were his aims, yet in no human breast Could private feelings find a holier nest. His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was vowed Through a life long and pure; and Christian faith Calm'd in his soul the fear of change and death. 110 CASTLEHEAD. The vicarage has been erected upon a wisely- chosen spot, a rising ground about a quarter of a mile from the parish church, commanding excellent views ; and Dovecote, now called Lairthwaite, the residence of James Stanger, Esq., has a site equally favoured. Saint John's Church, a neat structure of hewn stone, from a quarry at Lamonby, occupies a commanding situation at the south- east end of the town ; it was opened for divine service on the 9th of September, 1838, and consecrated by the Bishop of Carlisle, December 27, in the same year. The building was commenced by the late Mr. Marshall, and completed and endowed by his widow. A neat par- sonage-house and a school-house have also been erected by members of the family. T. S. Spedding, Esq. occu- pies a neat house at Greta Bank. Greta Hall, the late abode of Dr. Southey, stands upon a deHghtful emi- nence at the north end of the town ; and Mrs. Turner's, at Derwent Hill, between the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite, has a view to both. Castlehead, (pronounced Castlet,) a wooded rock in the centre of the Derwentwater estate, rising 280 feet above the lake, is an excellent station for an introduc- tion to the beauties of Keswick vale. From the Bor- rowdale road, at one-third of a mile from the inn, a path turns off by which the hill is ascended ; and from its summit the lake of Derwent is finely displayed, with its numerous bays and islands. Lord's Island, near the shore, was once the residence of the family of Derwent- water ; the smaller island of Rampsholm lies beyond it ; St. Herbert's Isle nearer the middle of the lake ; and to the right the Vicar's Isle, on which H. C. Marshall, Esq. has a beautiful residence. The circumjacent mountains of Borrowdale and Newlands make a fine panorama. FRIAE, CEAG. Ill At the head of Borrowdale appears Great End Crag, beyond it a part of Scawfell, with the highest of the Pikes. Looking through the vale of Newlands, Red Pike, distinguished by its colour, rises over Buttermere. To the eastward, Wanthwaite Crags, and Great Dod, form the end of the mountain range extending from HelveUyn. To the north, Skiddaw rises finely, and Saddleback may be seen over the trees. Crosthwaite Church is a good object in the vale, and over the rising ground beyond Bassenthwaite Lake, the mountain Crif Fell, in Scotland, shews his head. This may be thought too elevated a station for the eye of a painter ; but as a general view of the lake, the town, and the valley, it is excellent. Some of the lower stations, formerly recom- mended, are rendered less inviting by the too great pro- fusion of wood upon the shores of the lake, and upon its islands ; but this rock will always remain sufficiently prominent for a prospect ; and at the same time a study for the geologist. A walk of half a mUe to the water side, with a con- tinuation of a quarter of a mile along it to Friar Crag, is the favourite promenade of the inhabitants of the town, and afi'ords much gratification to strangers. Turn- ing to the right from the road leading to Borrowdale, the prospect is over Crow Park, to the vaUey and moun- tains of Newlands, with High-stile presiding over But- termere in the distance : in retrospect, Skiddaw rises majestically over the town. Crow Park, now a fine, swelling, verdant field, was once a wood of stately oaks, but cut down about the year 1750. Cockshot Hill, to the left, is shrouded by trees ; but a pretty peep at the lake may be had from its summit, and a walk round its margia may sometimes be taken, on account of the shel- 112 VIEW FROM FRIAR CRAG. ter it affords. Coming in sight of the lake, Vicar's Isle is most happUy placed, the house just appearing through the variegated foliage of the trees. Along the margin of the water, numerous boats are moored, some belong- ing to private individuals, others kept for the accommo- dation of visitors ; and, at the termination of the walk on the low promontory of Friar Crag, the eye is saluted with a full prospect of the lake, bounded by the cele- brated mountains of Borrowdale. To the left, near the shore. Stable HUls farm is reared upon the site where stood Lord Derwentwater's stables at the time his man- sion was upon the adjacent island. The Parks, part cultivated, part wooded, occupy the rising ground, over which Wallow Crag shews his massive rocky front; those, with the lands betwixt the town and lake, form the Derwentwater estate, for some time belonging to Greenwich Hospital, but purchased by the late John Marshall, jun., Esq. Further on lies Barrow House, the property of J. Pockhngton Senhouse, Esq., and above it the pastoral farm of Ashness ; beyond the small island of Rampsholm pours the far-famed cataract of Lowdore ; and Castle Crag appears between the more lofty moun- tains of Brund Fell and Gait Crag, like a centinel placed to guard the entrance of Borrowdale. To the right of St. Herbert's Isle, Catbells with front of brighter green, shelve down towards the lake ; which is chiefly bordered on that side by the woods of the late Lord WUham Gordon, now Sir John Woodford's. Looking through the lateral vale of Newlands, Red Pike appears beyond Buttermere; and more to the right. Causey Pike and Grisedale Pike shew their aspiring peaks ; the pass of Whinlatter, and the mountains of Thornthwaite, lying still further to the riarht. THE BRtriDS TEMPLfi. 113 # @© ©<^® © ©O ® (i»® To visit the Druids' Temple, the Penrith road is pur- sued for nearly a mile, a portion of which lies on the banks of the Greta ; it then holds to the right, passing Field Side, the residence of Joshua Stanger, Esq. The road has now become steeper, so that a longish half mile takes many a short step to pace it ; and having arri- ved at the highest part of the road, the object vnU. be found in a field on the right hand. It will be acknow- ledged that few places on so moderate an elevation com- mand so complete a panorama. The vale of Naddale lies under the eye, beyond it is HelveUyn, with its subordi- nate Dods extending to Wanthwaite Crags, on the left you have the majestic Skiddaw and the serrated Saddle - l2 114 VOYAGE ROUND DERWENT WATER. back ; at the foot of the latter, Threlkeld with its white church ; and in the far east, the lofty Crossfell terminates the view : the fells of Castlerigg, Newlands, Buttermere, and Braithwaite, occupy the western portion of the horizon. We have given a plan of the circle, on a scale of 40 feet to an inch, with the exact number of stones, in the positions they have occupied from time beyond memory, and as they remain to this day. May 2nd, 1849. Very probably the spaces have been once filled up by smaller stones, which have been long since removed for secular purposes. On the west side of the field, a lane, called Castle Lonning, leads into the Ambleside road, at about the same distance from Keswick. Excellent views of the vale and mountains are also obtained from the Vicarage, from Ormathwaite, from many parts of a road leading by Applethwaite and Mill- beck, along a pleasant elevation at the foot of Skiddaw, and from the side of Latrigg. Those who admire more extensive prospects, may climb to the top of Latrigg — Wallow Crag — Swinside — Catbells — Causey Pike — Grisedale Pike, or Grasmoor ; and to crown the whole, for once, to the summit of Skiddaw, Helvellyn, or the still more lofty station of Scawfell Pike. A voyage round Derwent Lake wdl agreeably fill up a space of two or three hours in any part of a seasonable day, and is generally thought particularly refreshing after the fatigues of a morning's ascent of Skiddaw. Passing Friar's Crag, a fine bay opens out, shewing, on the left, the wooded rock of Castlehead, with Saddleback beyond it ; in front, the Lord's Island, with the wooded steeps of Wallow Crag ; and coasting under the lofty VOYAGE ROUND DERWENT "WATER. 115 Falcon Crag, the boat may be landed to view the cas- cades at Barrow and Lowdore, and return by the western side of the lake. ROUND DERWENT LAKE. MILES. MILES. 2 Barrow House, and Cascade 2 1 Lowdore, ditto 3 1 Grange 4 1 Bowder Stone 5 1 Return, and cross the River at Grange. ... 6 4^ Portinscale 10^ H Keswick 12 A delightful excursion may be made round Derwent Lake, either on horseback or in a carriage. The road lies along the foot of the wooded park of Derwentwater, with the lake on the right, and the lofty rocks of Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag on the left ; and in many places it commands excellent views. About a mile and a half from Keswick it lies just above the margin of the lake, where the prospect was greatly admired before it was ob- scured by extended planting. "A country beautiful by nature is rarely improved by art,"* and modern planta- tions more frequently hide beauties than create them. Two miles from Keswick, a road on the left leads to Watend- lath, and we pass the beautiful mansion of Barrow. A fine cascade behind the house may be seen by strangers on application at the lodge. Another mile brings us to Lowdore — famous for its waterfall. Here is a neat public-house, furnishing boats and pleasure carriages ; a cannon also is kept for the echo, which is very fine, especially in a stiU evening. Rather more than four miles from Keswick, we have the hamlet called the Grange, upon the opposite bank of the river. * Southey. 116 BOWBER STONE. About Lowdore and Grange, the draftsman will find employment for his pencil ; and the geologist will ob- serve the transition, from the blackish clay slate upon which he treads, to the more variously aggregated and paler coloured rocks on his left hand and before him. The bridge at Grange might be crossed, as the short- est route ; but it may be recommended to proceed forward another mile to the Bowder Stone — a fragment BOWDER STONE. of rock about twenty yards in length, and half as much in height, — remarkable for being curiously poised upon one of its angles, hke a ship upon its keel, vdth a httle more support towards one end. Its weight has been variously computed from 1771 to 1971 tons. But it is not merely for the sight of this stone, that travellers are advised to advance so far. It is chiefly for the prospect here obtained into the interior of Borrowdale, which ex- pands itself as far as Rosthwaite ; beyond which the vale is divided into two parts, the one branching off towards Grasmere and Langdale, the other towards Wasdale and Buttermere. Returning to Grange, the road then crosses the river, and is carried along a pleasant elevation above the lead BOKROWDALE BY WATENDLATH. 117 mines and woods of Brandlehow and Water End, or Derwentwater Bay, the house standing sweetly sheltered on the margin of the lake. From this elevation, the lake, with its islands, bays, and promontories, is seen to great advantage. The road then crossing the pleasant vale of Newlands, joins the Cockermouth road at Portinscale, and reaches Keswick in a circuit of 12 miles. At Port- inscale, the Blucher Hotel has been greatly enlarged, and furnishes boats and conveyances. TO BORROWDALE BY WATENDLATH. On a second excursion to Borrowdale, on foot or on horseback, the road by Ashness to Watendlath may be taken. From a bridge above Barrow Cascade, there is a splendid view of the valley, with the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite ; and a little further on, by deviating to the edge of a precipice on the right, the waterfall of Lowdore comes in view, and the lake appears at an awful depth of 380 feet beneath your feet. After losing sight of the lakes, the road lies along a contracted valley, by the side of the stream which supplies the cataract of Lowdore. At the distance of five miles from Keswick, it reaches Watendlath, which consists of a few anti- quated cottages and farm buildings ; just beyond which the tarn is placed, amidst a small area of green meadows, surrounded by wild and uncultivated hiUs. A steep track leads up the hiU, from the highest part of which, 640 feet above Derwent Lake, the summit of Helvellyn may be seen ; and a fine view opens into the most dis- tant parts of Borrowdale; it then descends steeply to Rosthwaite, whence the return may be made by Bowder Stone to Keswick; a circuit of 14 miles. To contract 118 KESWICK TO BTJTTERMEEE. this excursion, the stream from "Watendlath may be crossed about a mile beyond Ashness ; then turning towards Lowdore, there is a magnificent view of Der- went Water and Bassenthwaite, through the opening above the waterfall, which may be taken at pleasure from a higher or a lower station ; so as to embrace a larger or smaller portion of the lake and its islands. KESWICK TO BUTTBRMERE. MILES. MILES. 5 Bowder Stone 5 1 Rosthwaite 6 2 Seatoller 8 2 Honister Crag 10 2 Gatesgarth 12 2 Buttermere 14 9 Through Newlands to Keswick 23 An excursion through Borrowdale to Buttermere may be made on horseback, or in a car adapted to the road, taking the route before described as far as Bowder Stone : a mile beyond which, at Rosthwaite, is a decent public-house. A little further, a road on the left leads by Stonethwaite, over the steep mountain pass called the Stake, to Langdale. Tourists have sometimes been advised, by this track, to connect Borrowdale with Lang- dale, in one excursion ; but the better way is to explore Langdale from Ambleside, and Borrowdale from Keswick. At Seatoller, about eight miles from Keswick, a road on the left leads to the black-lead mine, and to Wast Water; and here the Buttermere road, turning to the right, ascends, by the side of a stream broken into pretty waterfalls, up a steep hill ; from which there are some fine retrospective views of the upper parts of Bor- rowdale; and Helvellyn soon begins to shew his head KESWICK TO BUTTEEMERE. 119 over the mountains of Watendlath. In passing the hause, (which rises 800 feet above the level of Derwent Lake,) Honister Crag, in majestic grandeur, is presented to the view; between which and Yew Crag, the road now sharply descends. Both these rocks are famed for producing roofing slate of the best quahty ; and the edges of the road are beautifully tufted with Alchemilla alpina. Gatesgarth dale, through which the road now goes, (twice crossing and re-crossing the stream,) is a narrow valley strewed with large blocks of stone, fallen from the rocks above; and solemnly shaded by the lofty Honister, which towers to the height of 1 700 feet above the valley at its foot. We now re-enter upon the same soft clay- slate rock which we parted from at Grange, and the change is soon apparent in the smooth- ness of the road. Opposite to the farm of Gatesgarth, which is two miles from the inn at Buttermere, a shep- herd's path leads over the mountain, by a pass called Scarf-gap, and, after crossing the narrow dale of Enner- dale, proceeds to Wasdale Head over a second and higher mountain called the Black SaU. The crags on the left of Scarf-gap are, from their form, called Hay- stacks ; and to the right, three adjoining summits are called High-crag, High-stile, and Red-pike. The two first are composed of what some would call a porphyritic greenstone rock, the third of a reddish sienite : and be- tween the second and third lies Burtness Tarn. The road, after passing Gatesgarth, touches upon the margin of Buttermere Lake, and a little further upon the left is the neat sheltered cottage of Haseness ; and another mile brings us to the inn at Buttermere, distant from Keswick, by this route, 14 miles. Facing the inn, on a rocky site, formerly occupied by 120 BUTTEEMERE TO KESWICK. a miniature chapel, a new one, not much larger, has been erected in 1840, at the expense of a stranger. The Rev. Vaughan Thomas, of Oxford. At Buttermere, a boat is usually taken upon Crum- mock Lake, as well for the views of the scenery as being the most convenient way of seeing Scale Force. It is an agreeable walk of half a mile to the water, and after a pleasant little voyage of nearly a mile, a walk of three- quarters of a mile reaches to the fall. Travellers may indeed walk from the inn to Scale Force ; but the path being wet and unpleasant, a boat is greatly to be pre- ferred. If the weather be unfavourable for using the boat, a good view of Crummock Lake may be had, bjr riding a mile and a half on the eastern side, to the rocky point called the Hause. After the necessary refresh- ment at Buttermere, it is an agreeable ride of nine miles through the peaceful vale of Newlands, and by Portin- scale to Keswick. On leaving Buttermere, we encounter a steep hill ; but the road, as well as the mountain side, is much smoother than the ascent from Borrowdale. In about a mile and a half we reach the top of the Hause, and sud- denly glance upon the further edge of Derwent "Water, with the wooded rock of Castlehead, and the mountain Saddleback. The first part of the descent into the vale of Newlands is steep, but the road soon becomes smooth and pleasant. From the foot of Rawling End we gain a beautiful view over Derwent Lake and the vale of Keswick, and join the Cockermouth road at Portinscale. Should any objection arise to the road through New- lands, the excursion may be prolonged by the side of Crummock Lake, where Melbreak is a fine object on the opposite shore, and, passing the precipitous Grasmoor, DRIVE TO SCALE HILL, AND BUTTERMERE, 121 turn to the left to Scale Hill ; or by the more direct road, in view of the vale of Lorton, and over Whinlatter to Keswick. DRIVE TO SCALE HILL, AND BUTTERMERE. MILES. MILES. 2| Braithwaite 2| 2J Summit of Whinlatter 5 3 Lorton 8 4 Scale Hill 12 4 Buttermere 16 9 Through Newlands to Keswick 25 The best way for a carriage to Scale Hill, or Butter- mere, is by the old road towards Cockermouth, over the steep mountain Whinlatter, which in the length of two mUes rises to the height of 800 feet above the valley. After passing the sixth milestone, a road turns to the left, crossing a brook and winding round the end of a hill, where a fine view is presented over the cultivated vale of Lorton, and as far as the distant mountains of Kirkcud- bright. At Scale Hill, a boat may be taken on Crummock Lake, from whence the mountains surrounding that and Buttermere may be seen to great advantage. The party may be landed for a view of Scale Force, and again for a walk to the village of Buttermere, and a view of the lake from a hill near it — returning the same way to Keswick. But should there be any objection to taking a boat, the carriage may be driven along the side of Crummock Lake to the inn at Buttermere, and the re- turn made through the vale of Newlands, by the road described in the last page ; which requires steady horses, as it rises the height of 760 feet in less distance than a mile and a half. M ( 122 ) KESWICK TO WAST WATER. MILES. MILES. 8 To Seatoller 8 1 Seathwaite 9 3 Sty Head 12 2 Wasdale Head 14 6 Nether Wasdale Strands 20 4 Gosforth 24 3 Calder Bridge 27 Tourists, who have no objection to the saddle, will generally be much gratified by an excursion on horseback for two days : by which plan, Borrowdale and Wast Water are seen on the first day ; and Ennerdale, Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere on the second. The road up Borrowdale, as far as Seatoller, has already been described ; from whence the Wasdale road is on the left to Seathwaite ; opposite to which, on the right, lies the famous Black-lead Mine, Carriages may be used as far as Seathwaite, but beyond that the road becomes a mere track, fit only for horses accustomed to the country. A waterfall presents itself to view on the right ; and after crossing a rude bridge, the ascent of the -mountain is commenced by a winding path. On passing a piece of water called Sty Head Tarn, the bold and lofty crag of Great End appears on the left ; and beyond it, in tower- ing majesty, the highest Pikes of Scawfell, rendered more conspicuous by an object erected a few years ago, during the prosecution of the Trigonometrical Survey. Great Gable is close upon the right ; but the grandeur of its form is better appreciated at a distance. The highest part of the road at Sty Head is 1250 feet above the nearest house ; and in the first part of the descent, a magnificent view presents itself : the small valley of Wasdale Head appearing as if sunk below the generaj WASDALE HEAD. 123 level, and the sea at a distance seeming to rise in the horizon. The lake of "Wast Water is not yet in sight, being hid by a projecting mountain on the left, called Lingmell. A steep zigzag track now descends on the side of Gable, down which the horses may be led ; as it is neither quite safe nor agreeable to ride. Crags of the most grotesque forms overlook the road, and the side of the hill is profusely strewed with stones, in some of which garnets may be found imbedded ; and, in cross- ing the stream which issues between Gable and Kirkfell, a rock of reddish granite may be seen in the bed of the rivulet. Wasdale Head comprises a level area of 400 acres of land, divided by stone walls into small irregular fields, which have been cleared with great industry and labour ; as appears from the enoi-mous heaps of stones, piled up from the surplus after completing the in closures. Here six or seven families have their Chapel, of a size propor- tionate to the number of inhabitants, and in a style according with the situation ; and what Mr. Gray formerly said of Grasmere, may with equal propriety be appKed to this vale : " Not a single red tile, no gentle- man's flaring house or garden walls, break in upon the repose of this little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its neatest, most becoming attire." After passing the inhabited part of the valley, the road approaches the lake, which shews the purity of its water by the clean blue gravel washed upon its shores. As the road proceeds along the margin of the lake, the screes on the opposite side form a striking object, and the mountains left behind should not be forgotten ; re- trospective views taken at short intervals, will shew the 124 GOSFORTH, majestic and varied forms they assume, on being viewed from different points. After passing Over Beck Bridge, at the foot of Bowderdale, and just before entering the gate, the mountain Yewbarrow appears in a fine conical shape, and between the slopes of it and Lingmel the distance is beautifully filled up by Gable ; and one of the best views of the lake is a mile further on, from a rocky projecting knoll ; or from the grounds of Wasdale HaU. Towards the lower parts of the lake, the shores are more rocky ; and the composition of the rock is changed, from a kind of greenstone, to a reddish sienite. It has been suggested, that Wast Water would be more advantageously seen, by reversing the excursion, so that the principal mountain views would be always in prospect on advancing up the vale. As far as relates to Wast Water alone, this is certainly true ; but Bor- rowdale, Lowes Water, and Crummock, may be seen to more advantage by this route ; besides, tourists gener- ally congratulate themselves on having passed over the most difficult part of the road on the first day. Having left the lake about a mUe, a road turns off on the left to Ravenglass ; and at the Strands, near the Church of Nether Wasdale, there are two small public- houses, at one of which it may be necessary to take some refreshment, after a morning's ride of 20 miles, and none of the best road. About four miles further, is the village of Gosforth, where a tail column, carved with unintelligible charac- ters, stands in the church-yard on the right ; beyond which the roads from Wasdale, Eskdale, and Ravenglass become united. The country now becomes more culti- vated, and the principal views are towards the sea, with the Isle of Man in the distance; and the mountain RETURN FROM CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. 125 rocks are succeeded by a red sandstone. From hence it is nearly three mUes of excellent road to Calder Bridge, at which place are two neat and comfortable inns, where lodgings are generally taken for the night. Three- quarters of a mile above the bridge, lie the remains of Calder Abbey, delineated at p. 71, to which is a pleasant walk. The path leads by the side of the river Calder, where its banks are finely covered with wood, and passing the mansion of T. Irwin, Esq., which adjoins the Abbey, the venerable ruin appears to view. Captain Irwin has built and endowed a neat Chapel in the village of Calder Bridge, which stands in the parish of St. Bridget's, Beckermont. Ponsonby Hall, the residence of E. Stan- ley, Esq., M. P., is at a short distance from the bridge ; and the Parish Church stands in the park. RETURN FROM CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. MILES. MILES. 8 Ennerdale Bridge 8 3 Lamplugh Cross 11 4 Lowes Water 15 2 ScaleHill 17 4 Buttermere 21 9 Keswick 30 From Calder Bridge there is an excellent road of ten miles to Whitehaven ; but that usually taken by tourists, on horseback or on foot, inclines more towards the mountains. For some miles the principal prospect is over a cultivated country to the sea, with the Isle of Man and the Scotch mountains in the distance. About three miles from Calder Bridge, having sur- mounted Cold Fell, the two rival points of ScawfeU appear over the neighbouring mountains, separated by M 2 126 CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. the yawning chasm of Mickle Door ; and two miles fur- ther, the town of Egremont is seen through a naiTow vale on the left. Seven miles from Calder Bridge, a part of Ennerdale Lake appears in sight ; and after passing the hamlet of Ennerdale Bridge, in which stand the church and two small public-houses, the lake is observed from the rising ground at Kirkland, in another point of view, accompanied by the grand mountain scenery of Ennerdale, amid which the PUlar rises conspicuous. Turning to the right, by the public-house at Lamp- lugh Cross, in a mile further we pass between the hall and the church : the hall is now rebuilt in the shape of a modern farm-house, the only remains of its ancient grandeur being a gateway, with the inscription, " John Lamplugh, 1595." Two miles further, turning to the right at a farm-house called Fangs, and descending the hill, we first come in sight of the small lake of Lowes Water, accompanied by a rich assemblage of mountains. On the left, beyond Low Fell, we have the towering, barren front of Grasmoor, succeeded by Whiteless Pike, Robinson, and Rannerdale Knot, beyond Crummock Lake. On the right lie Bumbank and Carling Knot ; in front, Melbreak rises in an aspiring cone, flanked by High Stile and Red Pike on one hand, and the peaked, perpendicular front of Honister Crag on the other. Between the last and Rannerdale Knot is just seen a part of the mountain called Hay Stacks, near Stone- thwaite, in Borrowdale ; at a gate opening to the com- mon, the top of the Pillar may be seen to the right of Red Pike. Soon after passing this lake, that of Crum- mock presents itself in one of its best combinations : the mountains seeming to have changed places since we viewed them on Lowes Water, Then crossing the river CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. 127 Cocker, we shortly arrive at Scale Hill, distant from Calder Bridge about 17 miles. If Buttermere has not been previously visited, a boat may be taken upon Crummock Lake, which, with a walk from the edge of the water to Scale Force, will make a pleasing variety. In the meantime the horses may meet the party at Buttermere, and the return to Keswick be made through Newlands — making this day's journey nearly 30 miles. Those who have seen Buttermere, may save above a mile, by taking the shorter carriage road from Scale Hill : along which there is a pleasant view of the vale of Lorton : and also a fine view of the vale of Keswick, in descending the hill from Whinlatter. Those who think this circuit too much for two days, may extend it to three, by staying one night at Nether Wasdale, and another at Scale Hill. To visit Wast Water in a carriage from Keswick, as has of late become the more general plan, it will be necessary to go by Scale Hill, Lowes Water, and Lamp- lugh ; thence preferring the road by Cleator and Egre- mont to Calder Bridge. A good view of the mountains of Ennerdale can be had from this road ; but it requires a lengthy deviation to see much of the lake. Parties desiring a fuller inspection may go towards Ennerdale Bridge, and to the Boat, an inn upon the margin of the lake, where they can have a boat, and other accommo- dation. They may go from the bridge either over Cold Fell, or by the Wath to Cleator, and, as before directed, to Calder Bridge ; where, having viewed the remains of the Abbey, quarters may be taken for the night. In the morning proceed to the Strands, where a boat may be engaged on Wast Water, and, if desired, Scaw- feU Pike may be ascended ; and the return made the same way, or by Whitehaven and Cockermouth, 128 DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. Parties on a tour are generally disinclined to retracing their steps, and in this route would be glad to find their way to Keswick on fresh ground, — and such as feel themselves equal to a walk over the mountains to But- termere, may discharge their conveyance at Wasdale Head. Here is not an inn, but, upon occasion, some- thing " such as the house affords" may be had at Mr. Ritson's ; and the walk from hence to Buttermere may be accomplished in three to three-and-a-half hours. Say up Mosedale to top of Black Sail, Ih. 20m. ; cross the Lisa in Ennerdale Dale, 20m.; by the stream, 10m.; Scarf Gap, 30m.; Gatesgarth, 25m.; Buttermere, 35m.; making three hours twenty minutes. Accommodation may be had at Buttermere, and a conveyance to Keswick. Or the shorter walk over the Stye Head to Seathwaite may be preferred, which may be accomplished in about an hour and a half; — say to the top 45m., and the same from thence to Seathwaite. As at Mr. Ritson's, " such as the house affords" may be had at Mr. Dixon's, and by previous arrangement, a carriage may be ready at Seathwaite, at a time appointed ; or, for parties who think it too much to walk over the hill, ponies may be bespoke at Keswick, to meet at Wasdale Head. DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. MILES. MILES. 8 Peel-Wyke 8 1 Ouse Bridge 9 1 Castle Inn 10 3 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 13 5 Keswick 18 This being thought less interesting than most of the other lakes, is often reserved to the last ; but some have DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 129 remarked that it ought to be visited first, or before the imagination became too much elated by the more promi- nent features of the other lakes. However, tourists who prefer an easy journey, wiU find objects to please, in a perambulation of 18 miles round this lake. On the western side the road is much improved, and rendered very commodious for traveUing ; it is in some parts en- closed in woods, in others opening to excellent views. There is a public-house at Peel-Wyke on the western side, another at Castle Inn on the eastern. The road at the foot of the lake is much encumbered by trees ; but by walking a few paces through a gate, nearly opposite Armathwaite Hall, the prospect from the margin of the lake is extensive ; and the botanist may perhaps find something worth his notice. On the eastern side, the traveller would sometimes wish for a nearer approach to the lake ; but few would think themselves repaid for the trouble of visiting West's stations on the promontories of Broadness and Scarness. Those who are not inclined to make the whole circuit of the lake, may take a ride by the foot of Skiddaw, to a station a httle above the road upon an open common, at the distance of five miles from Keswick. Here the prin- cipal part of the lake may be seen, with the three bold promontories of Bowness, Broadness, and Scarness, and in returning (if on horseback or on foot) take the upper road, by Mdlbeck, Applethwaite, and Ormathwaite, from whence some of the best views of Derwent Lake and its environs will be found. From Applethwaite, or Orma- thwaite, they may take the nearest road to Keswick, or proceed by an occupation way along the side of Latrigg, and enter the town by the Penrith road. ( 130 ) KESWICK TO ULLSWATER. MILES. MILES. 8 Moor End 8 7 Gowbarrow Park 15 4 Patterdale 19 Return the same way ; or 10 Pooley Bridge 30 6 Penrith 36 Or^ over Kirkstone to Ambleside .... 10 Ullswater may be visited from Keswick on horseback or on foot ; leaving the Penrith road at the third mile- stone, crossing the vale of Wanthvs^aite, and passing over a bleak mountain side to Matterdale. Carriages have formerly been obliged to continue on the turnpike road to Beckses, eleven miles ; but a new road is now constructed on the western side of Mell Fell, which shortens the distance two miles. After leaving St. John's Vale and the mountain Saddleback behind, these roads are equally uninteresting, till they unite at Dock- ray ; but after entering Gowbarrow Park, the prospect of UUswater is presented in one of its richest points of view ; exhibiting the upper reach of the lake, with its three islands and delightful bays. Place Fell in front, rising immediately from the water's edge to the height of 1160 feet, and to the right a vast assemblage of mountains ; among which Scandale Fell and Saint Sun- day Crag rise conspicuous. Airey Force and Lyulph's Tower lie a little to the left, and it is then about four miles of delightful road to the inn at Patterdale, or six to Pooley Bridge. It has been customary for carriages from Keswick to be taken by Dacre to Pooley Bridge ; but it is preferable to turn off by Hutton John, and cross the valley to Bennet Head; by which a much earher and bet- ter view of Ullswater is obtained before reaching the inn. APPENDIX. 131 An attempt to enumerate all the permutations that might be made in these excursions ; or all the pleasing points, from which the varied scenery of this interesting region might be viewed ; would be an endless, and, in fact, an useless task. Persons who delight in exploring a country, need only be made acquainted with the out- lines : they will feel more pleasure in finding out the rest. As an Appendix to these directions, it may not be irrelevant to mention some objects which may be seen on the way, to and from the lakes, by different lines of road ; for which the author is partly indebted to the Penny Magazine. Returning from the lakes, by way of Kendal towards Leeds, the tourist crosses the vale of Lune, at Kirkby lionsdale. Near Ingleton, the mountain Ingleborough, the waterfall of Thornton Force, and the Slate Quarries, are interesting to the geologist as well as to the lover of the picturesque : also the caves of Yordas and Weather- cote, with others of smaller note ; at the foot of a steep hiU, a mile before reaching Settle, by the side of the road, is the celebrated ebbing and flowing well of Gig- gleswick. Four miles to the east of Settle, lie Malham Cove and Gordale Scar, two of the most remarkable spots in England. Wharf dale, still more to the east, is beautiful from its source in the moors, to Otley and Harewood, a few miles from Leeds. The grounds of Bolton Abbey are the gem of this valley. From Penrith, the eastern road by Stainmoor and Leerainglane skirts a lovely country. There is some pretty scenery between Penrith and Appleby, and the wild road over Stainmoor is striking and pleasant on a 132 APPENDIX. line day. From Bowes, Barnard Castle may be visited ; and Teesdale, one of the finest Yorkshire valleys, with its two waterfalls. High Force and Cauldron Snout ; also Winch Bridge, one of the first attempts at a bridge of suspension. At Greta Bridge, on the high road, lies the well- known scenery of Rokeby. At Catterick Bridge the Swale is crossed, about three miles below Richmond. Swaledale has some pretty scenery, but is inferior to Wensleydale, the next valley to the south, which is traversed by the Ure, and extends westward nearly to Ingleborough. Hardraw Scar, near Hawes ; Aysgarth Force, near Askrigg ; and Jeveraux Abbey, are the most remarkable objects in it. Lower down, on the banks of the Ure, near Ripon, stands Fountains Abbey, which needs no praise. Ripon Minster is a fine specimen of our early ecclesiastical architecture. From Ripon there is a double communication with the south, either by Boroughbridge and the York road ; or by Harrogate, Harewood, and Leeds. Knaresborough possesses some objects of curiosity, but scarcely sufficient to leai' the tourist so far out of his way. A party from Kendal might visit the scenery of Wen- sleydale by going first to Sedbergh, and thence through the vale of Garsdale to Hawes ; or having proceeded as far as Ingleton, after viewing the natural curiosities in that neighbourhood, may go from thence to Askrigg, and there fall into the route above described. BOTANICAL NOTICES. Without entering upon a systematic arrangement of the botany, or attempting an enumeration of all the rare plants of the district ; it is hoped that the annexed fa- miliar notices of such as may be Ukely to attract the attention of tourists, in their rambles through a region possessing such variety of soil and situation, may be acceptable to some readers. In shallow parts of lakes, where the bottom is of peat, the Scirpus lacustris and Arundo Phragmiiis,* Bull-Rush and Common Reed, rear their heads on high above the water ; the leaves and flowers of the Nymphcea alba and Nuphar lutea, the White and Yellow Water-Lily, float upon the surface ; and the bottom is rendered verdant by a commixture of Lobelia Dortmanna, Littorella lacus- tris, and Isoetes lacustris. The Lobelia spreads a tuft of radical leaves upon the bottom, and in July shoots up its spike of delicate pale flowers above the water ; the Littorella puts forth its long and slender stamina most freely, when in a dry summer it is exposed upon the * The Phragmitis communis, (Bab.,) said by authors to blossom in July, does not blow here before the latter end of September; and then only in favourable seasons. 134 BOTANICAL NOTICES. shore : and the Isoetes, being one of the plants which perfect their fructification under water, has its leaves pulled up by water-fowl, in the winter season, to extract the spores concealed in their bases. Several species of Potamogeton, Pond- weed, grow in the lakes. Myriophyllum spicatum aud Sium inundatum inhabit slow streams and shallow parts of lakes. Chara flexilis grows in shallow, and C. vulgaris in deeper parts of Derwent Lake. Sparganium ramosum, in ditches ; S. natans, in Derwent Lake : both of these, with S. sim- plex, may be found in Naddle-beck, near Keswick. Typha latifolia^^ also grows at the last-mentioned place ; T. angustifolia, in Rydal "Water. The spongy shores of the lakes and pools are margined with Equisetum limosum ; Hippuris vulgaris grows in ditches near Cartmel Well ; Cladium Mariscus, on the edge of Cunswick Tarn, near Kendal; Ranunculus aqua- tilis, in the rivers Derwent, Kent, and Eamont; (Enanthe crocata, in the river Brathay ; Myosotis palustris, Forget, me-not, and Alisma plantago, are common ; Nasturtium officinale. Water- cress, in springs and ditches in calcare- ous soils, but has been rare among the lakes tiU increased by planting. Meadows subject to lake floods are covered vdth the various species of Carex, along with Eriophorum, Cot- ton-grass ; E. vaginatum, on the boggy parts of moun- tains, is called Moss-crops, and is the early spring food of sheep ; Menyanthes trifoliata, Buckbean ; Comarum palustre, Juncus filiformis, and Juncus uliginosus, on the isthmus near Derwent Lake ; the last named, when on * This differs from the description given by Sir J. E. Smith, in the stem being leafy all the way up. It is, I believe, the angusti- folia that has its leaves all from the bottom. BOTANICAL NOTICES. 135 shore, is a low creeping plant, but, rooted under water, it shoots up leaves like hairs to the length of a foot or more. Saxifraga aizoides, in watery places on Barrow Side, near Keswick ; S. granulata, in drier ground near the same place, and at Mayburgh ; S. hypnoides, near Thirl - mere, Kirkstone, and Long-Sleddale; S. stellaris, near the summits of Skiddaw and Helvellyn ; S. tridactylites , at Keswick. Saxifraga oppositifolia, and Silene acaulis, have been observed by H. C. Watson, Esq., near Great End Crag, in Borrowdale ; and by Mr. Wright on Hel- vellyn. Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, Golden saxi- frage, is common on the margin of springs. A species of Cochlearia, not exactly the grcenlandica of Smith and Hooker, is abundant in springs all around Helvellyn, but rarely found in other parts of the lake district.* Parnassia palustris, Grass of Parnassus, and Narthecium Ossifragum, Bog Asphodel, in moist elevated pastures on the way to Skiddaw. Primula farinosa. Bird's-eye, in similar situations, in Loughrigg, near Bampton, Hesket Newmarket, and Cunswick Tarn. Pinguicula vulgaris, Butterwort, and Drosera rotundi- folia, Sun-dew, common in shallow bogs ; D. longifolia is more rare, but found in Borrowdale, and Ullock Moss, where the bog is deeper. Vaccinium Oxycoccos, Cran-berry, grows in poor boggy ground, sparingly near Rydal Water, in Thorn- thwaite, and more plentifully in Mungrisdale ; V. Myr- * It is the variety C. alpina, of Babington, has fleshy leaves, pods tapering to both ends, may be said to be biennial ; in the garden it arises from seed, and maybe produced by offsets ; it frequently lives over vyinter, but rarely blossoms more than once from the same root. Another variety, with more veined, different shaped leaves, 9,nd less fertile, is found near Sty Head. 136 BOTANICAL NOTICES. tillus, Bilberry, Whortle-berry, or Blea-berry, is common in rocky woods and on mountain sides, near Derwent Lake and on Skiddaw Dod ; V. Vitis idcea, Red Whor- tle-berry or Cow-berry, inhabits loftier situations, and retains its fruit longer ; it grows on the summit of Skiddaw, but is more fruitful on the mountains between Derwent and Crummock Lakes. Empetrmn nigrum grows at a great altitude upon mountains, in a moist soU ; its berries are said to be the food of grouse. Arbutus Uva~ursi, was found by Mr. Watson on the west side of Grasmoor. Large tracts of peaty moors are covered with Calluna vulgaris, common Ling, which affords shelter for grouse ; in August, its blossoms give the mountains a rich pur- ple hue, and it is the source from which bees obtain a great portion of their honey : a variety is sometimes observed with white flowers. Erica cinerea grows in places more rocky, and remains longer in blossom ; E. Tetralix, in Ullock Moss and Gosforth. Statice Arme- ria. Thrift, or Sea GUliflower, in salt marshes, and near the top of Scawfell. Rhodiola rosea, and Oxyria reni- formis, in the rocks of Helvellyn, ScawfeU, Raven Scar, and Ashness Gill. JJlex Europeeus, the large early flowering Furze or Whin, is too common in the neighbourhood of Keswick ; JJlex nanus, a smaller kind, blossoming in autumn, is more prevalent between Pooley Bridge and Askham, in Buttermere, and Wasdale ; at Bolton Wood, near Gos- forth, intermixed with the large blossomed heath, it gives an appearance of richness to land otherwise barren. Juniperus communis, the common Juniper, erroneously called Savin, grows on the mountain between Wythbum and Borrowdale, on Place Fell, Loughrigg Fell, at a BOTANICAL NOTICES. 137 great altitude upon Grisedale Pike, and most plentifully in the pastures between Windermere and Coniston. Salix herhacea, the least Willow, on the summit of Skiddaw, on Saddleback, Helvellyn, and the mountains between Derwent and Crummock Lake. Alchemilla alpina, Cinquefoil Lady's Mantle, on the mountain be- tween Borrowdale and Buttermere, and at the foot of Wanthwaite Crags. Orchis hifolia, 0. maculata, and 0. conopsea, one to two miles, and 0. Mascula at three mUes, from Keswick, on the Penrith road ; O. conopsea, on Hartley Hill, Buttermere, and above Seatoller. Listera Ovata, and L, Nidus- Avis, under Wallow Crag ; L. Cordata, near Helvellyn. Erythrasa Centaurium, Gentiana campestris, Cynoglossum officinale, Erodium cicutarium, and Gerani^ um sanguineum, near Flimby ; Agrimonia Eupatoria, Campanula latifolia. Geranium sylvaticum and G. pra- tense, Lysimachia vulgaris, Rosa cinnamomia, Thalictrum flavum, and Senecio saracenicus, in Howray, near Kes- wick ; Campanula glomeraia, near Ullswater. Meum athamanticum, Spignel, Bristow Hills, near Keswick ; Peucedanum Ostruthium, in Legberthwaite ; Lepidium hirtum. Crow Park ; Solidago Virgaurea, Var. cambrica. Friar Crag Wood, near Keswick ; Thalictrum majus f^ and Genista tinctoria, at the foot of Bassenthwaite. Pimpinella Saxifraga, Burnet Saxifrage, and Sanguis- orba officinalis. Great Burnet, are common in the fields ; Poterium Sanguisorba, Salad Burnet, on Kirkhead in Cartmel, and on Kendal Fell ; Primula Veris, Cowslip, is common in calcareous soils, but rarely found among the lakes. Chrysanthemum segetum, the Yellow Corn * A note of interrogation signifies some doubt as to the species, n2 138 BOTANICAL NOTICES. Marigold, was formerly so troublesome in some com fields, that the land infested with it was considered infe- rior in value ; but by the improved system of husbandry it is nearly eradicated. Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum, the Great Daisy, in grass lands, is increasing to an inju- rious degree in many parts of the lake district. When land has been exhausted by continuing too long under tillage, it is subject to be overrun by Poten- tilla anserina, White Tansey or Silverweed, with Tussi- lago Farfara, Colt's-foot, which it is next to impossible to eradicate. Triticum repens, Couch-grass, or Twitch, with its long creeping roots, is also a source of annoy- ance to the farmer. The rare Pyrola secunda and P. media ? have been found among the rocks near Keswick; P. minor? Im- patiens Noli-me-tangere, Hypericum Androsamum, and Arum maculatum, near Ambleside ; Eupatorium cannahi- num, near Low Wood Inn, and in Wasdale ; Bidens tri- partita, near Keswick. Convallaria majalis, Lily of the Valley, on an island in Windermere, and near Skelwith Force ; Anchusa sempervirens , at Bowness and Long- Sleddale ; Paris quadrifolia, One-berry, on the turnpike side near Bannerigg, in a lane between EUeray and Bowness, near Stock Gill, and in Lowther Woods. Tamus communis, Bryony or Wild Vine, with its red berries, ornaments the hedges near Windermere Lake, but is rarely found further north. Vicia sylvatica, on the banks of the Lune ; Galium boreale, and Saponaria officinalis, under the bridge at Kirkby Lonsdale ; Origa- num vulgare, at Kirkby Lonsdale, Humphrey Head, and Mayburgh; Parietaria officinalis. Wall Pelitory, near Cartmel Well, and on the walls of Cartmel Church, Furness Abbey, and Calder Abbey, and a single root BOTANICAL NOTICES. 139 had fixed itself upon one of the piers of Kirkby Lons- dale Bridge. Meconopsis cambrica, Yellow Poppy, in Long-Sleddale ; Glaucium luteum, Yellow Horned Poppy ; Glaux Maritima, Anenaria peploides, and Eryngium ma- ritimum, on the coast near Flimby and Flookburgh ; Hyoscyamus niger, Henbane, at Dub Mill, near AUonby, and at Flookburgh ; Atropa Belladonna, deadly Night- shade, has been found on the shore near Flookburgh, but formerly more plentiful near Furness Abbey. Gera- nium pratense, Malva moschata, and Campanula latifolia, about Kirkby Lonsdale. Many of the plants inhabiting woody ground may be found in Castlehead Wood, Keswick ; such are Anemone nemorosa, Asperula odorata, Betonica officinalis, Circcea lutetiana, Convallaria multiflora, Corydalis claviculata. Digitalis purpurea, Epilobium montanum, Erysimum Alli- aria. Geranium lucidum, G. rohertianum, Geum urhanum, Hyacinthus nan scriptus, Hypericum humifusum, H. pulchrum, H. perforatum, Lapsana communis. Lychnis dioica, Lysimachia nemorum, Melampyrum pratense, Mer- curialis perennis, Orobus tuberosus, Oxalis acetosella, Prenanthes muralis. Primula vulgaris, Rubus idceus, Sanicula Europ