ijjs 555 inrtni- , — , ■ ■ ■ . H«HKj^e-iraaec5i?ffCtiee£H:-eir CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY DATE DUE - ^ hOfS ^U6 ^^]p ^**^ y^-^—^ -y- . - fi^iftu.jy TJ7 • GAYLORD PRINTED IN U.S.A. Cornell University Library DC 733.N87 1 Goss. .ro. PffiisaffiifiSMflil miWMi^Q ^3^ go6 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028137606 GOSSIP FROM PARIS DURING THE SECOND EMPIRE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ANTHONY B. NORTH PEAT GOSSIP FROM PARIS DURING THE SECOND EMPIRE CORRESPONDENCE (i 864-1 869) OF ANTHONY B. NORTH PEAT Attache au Cabinet du Ministre de rinterieur and, later. Attache au Conseil d'Etat SELECTED AND ARRANGED BY A. R. WALLER NEW YORK D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 1903 PREFACE THE letters from which the following selections have been made were sent daily from Paris during the years 1864 to 1870, by Mr. Anthony B. North Peat, Attach^ au Cabinet du Ministre de rintdrieur, who died from the effects of an accident during the early days of the siege of Paris. They were addressed mainly to the readers of the Morning Star, a daily London paper, the organ of the Man- chester school of politics, but several appeared else- where, notably in The Yorkshire Post. Thanks are due to the proprietors of the latter paper, and to the proprietors of the Daily News, with which the Morning Star was incorporated when it ceased to exist as a separate paper in 1870, for their kind permission to reprint. As Attach^ Mr. North Peat saw every morning the telegrams which passed through the Home Office, and thus was enabled to test the accuracy of current reports. The natural objection to a Government Attach^ being the correspondent of a foreign paper was waived shortly after the correspondence began, and, the sanction of His Excellency, the Marquis vi PREFACE de Lavalette, having been obtained, the letters were continued with the approbation of the Government. The letters thus contributed were handed to the publishers of the present volume for publication in the spring of 1902. They form nine bulky volumes, and range over the political and social life of Paris during those few years. They are essentially the letters of a journalist, and, in selecting about one- twelfth of the material to form the present volume, I have sought to give that which might interest readers of to-day. In the form in which they were preserved the letters were naturally full of misprints ; I have tried to eliminate these as far as may be, but I cannot hope entirely to have succeeded. A. R. W. NORTH PEAT LETTERS ETRETAT " A CHEAP bathing-place on the French coast" — such JTx. is the desideratum inquired for in a letter bearing the London postmark, signed " The Father of Six Children," which thefacteur handed me this morning. I reply to pater- familias. Take the steamer from Southampton to Havre, and thence proceed by omnibus to Etretat. Twenty years ago the very name of Etretat was unknown. Even now it is marked on few maps. Alphonse Karr, that most fascinating of French modern writers, was ill. He had overworked his brain. Rest and seclusion were ordered. His friends advised him to try Fecamp, but Fecamp is a mere port, and the scenery around is bare and ruggec^ — therefore utterly uncongenial to the future amateur gardener of Nice. He wandered on, and a few miles farther east found himself in a green valley lying between wooded hills. The scene became more picturesque at every turn of the road. Broad fields of golden corn, quaint homesteads, luxuriant orchards, rich pastures dotted over by the splendid animals so peculiar to Normandy met his eye on every side. Suddenly a lovelier picture still burst on his sight. A broad expanse of liquid sapphire, fishing-boats and their sepia-tinted sails, a quiet bay half encircled by a tiny village and guarded, as it were, by gigantic rocks, standing out at sea like monster sentinels. On the extreme right these rocks form a magnificent arch, 2 RESIDENTS beneath which the tide gurgles in rolling masses of white foam ; while on the left a needle-shaped peak stands out in the sea : on either side a line of white cliffs and a wide extent of green downs. Alphonse Karr stood amazed, and inquired the name of the village. Brought into notice by the magic of his brilliant pen, Etretat has become the favourite resort of the literary and artistic world. The valley leading to it is now studded by villas belonging to many of the celebrated men of the day, who seem to take delight in fixing their abode as near heaven as possible. The edifice, however, which, seen against the sky-line as you arrive from Beuzeville, attracts most attention, is the residence of a retired grocer, who, having accumulated a considerable sum of money in the brown sugar and yellow soap line, bethought himself of turning into a Norman baron of the feudal times, and accordingly he built himself a castle, with moat and keep, and dungeon dark and drear, and strong portcullis, putting, as he fondly flattered himself, the finishing touch to his faithful imitation of the habits and customs of Norman barons by seducing the village sexton into dig- ging up a skeleton out of the churchyard, which the man of sugar and spice hung in chains over the tower-flanked entrance of his castle. The consternation of the simple- minded fishermen, and more especially the terror of their wives, at this spectacle can be easier imagined than described. M. le Maire " transported himself," as the French express it, to the spot, a proces verbal was made out, but the baron grocer refused to return his skeleton to its mother earth in the churchyard. The affair came to the ears of M. le Prdfet, whereupon not only was the order issued for the instant restoration of the skeleton to its rightful place, but the instigator of the deed was heavily fined for having induced the sexton thus to violate the sanctity of the churchyard, the poor man himself dismissed with the malediction of the Church, and furthermore sentenced to three months' im- prisonment. I must do the would-be feudal baron the justice to say that on his release he promoted him to the post of AT ETRETAT 3 warder, or, in common parlance, concierge, in which sinecure he now flourishes. Beneath this formidable castle stands the residence of Offenbach, with whose musical compositions Europe is so well acquainted. Less ambitious than his neighbour, M. r spicier, the author of La Belle Hilene built a comfortable house, where he dispenses hospitality with no sparing hand. Paul Courrier's castellated mansion, by its size and solid masonry, proves that journalism is not utterly unremunera- tive. The house of M. Pr6vost-Paradol has a less imposing aspect; but instead of discussing the architectural fancies of literary celebrities. We quitted Paris by the first train, having booked ourselves for Beuzeville. From Beuzeville we proceeded to Etretat by omnibus. Unfortunately, it was market-day, and the said vehicle — an abominable cross be- tween the diligence of olden days and a third-class railway carriage, was therefore filled by stout Norman dames, each in charge of heavily-laden baskets of squeaking fowls, odor- iferous onions and every variety of strong-smelling herb. The road was at first profoundly uninteresting. However, after enduring martyrdom for two long hours, the view of the lovely valley and distant sea somewhat restored our equa- nimity ; and by the time we entered the Grande Rue, where the arrival of the omnibus was evidently the event of the day, a benignant smile illumined our hitherto irate coun- tenances. La Grande Rue! You naturally picture rows of gas- lighted restaurants and plate-glass-windowed shops. These illusions must be dismissed. Etretat is innocent of gas. The word "restaurant" to its inhabitants would be as in- telligible as a passage from the Koran. 'Tis true La Grande Rue boasts of a library, where, after minute investigation, I discovered some of Paul de Kock's worst novels enfeuilleton, of which I was offered the perusal for the moderate sum of thirty sous. La Grande Rue likewise has its jeweller, whose stock consists of a few silver-worked clasps, and I did once see an ancient watch in the window ; but I suspect that 4 THE SEA respectable timepiece belonged to the proprietor, and was expected to act the part of a decoy duck. There is likewise a modiste, who, I was informed, constructed the wonderful flannel headgear, hood-shaped, in which the fair portion of the visitors, for some inconceivable reason, delight to disfigure themselves. And, lastly, La Grande Rue has a butcher, whose stall is occasionally decorated by one or two headless sheep. The plage is the grand rendezvous for the world in general. The exclusives take refuge in the Casino — a gay little edifice erected on the beach, possessing a terrace-walk. From this height the rank and fashion of Etretat look down with pity not unmingled with scorn on the vulgar crowd below. The plage! How can I convey an idea of its picturesque and comical singularity ? The said plage, or beach, stretches in a crescent form around the bay. Rows of bathing-boxes separate it from the village, behind which stretches the green expanse of downs and the receding valley, while as you lounge on its sunny banks the lovely bay, walled in by white cliffs, terminating on the right by the arch of rock and on the left by the needle peak, lies at your feet, and every now and then its rippling waters compel you to shift your position to a higher ledge of shingle. Beneath an awning formed by a tattered sail stuck on four poles are to be found those who have bathed, and who therefore criticise those who are bathing, and not a little unmercifully, oblivious of the fact that they themselves presented quite as grotesque an appearance as their victims a few hours earlier in the day. It is im- possible not to be struck by the imperturbable coolness with which bathers of both sexes emerge from their boxes and brave the gaze of the loungers, each attired in a tight garment of dark serge, to which ladies add a sort of kilt, the object of which has ever been a mystery to me. With a laudable desire to conceal this frightful costume from the public, each bather shrouds his person as best he may in a sort of chlamy- de of white flannel, which he deposits on the beach as he enters the sea. Ladies adopt hats of oil-silk, and perhaps AT ETRETAT 5 imagine this head-dress becoming ; others adorn round caps with red trimmings, but vain are these efforts. The whole get-up is conspicuous for ugliness, and neither the genius of Poole nor the art of Worth himself could mitigate its hideous character. The best swimmers go out in canoes, and paddle far out to sea, whence they take headers, and, pushing the canoe before them, return to shore; but the majority, especially the ladies, are satisfied with jumping off a boat moored for their advantage about fifty yards out to sea, thence swimming home. It is a fact that almost every French woman swims with remarkable ease, whilst few amongst the English can accomplish above a few strokes. I saw better swimming by the fair sex than by the male bipeds. A good swimmer is quickly known, and becomes the hero of the beach. As he appears on the plage he is pointed out to new-comers, and from the instant he emerges in the flannel chlamyde he is a personage of interest. As he takes his first header every lorgnon is directed to his move- ments. He feels this, and, inspired by the ambition of an acrobat, does his best to amuse his audience. Marvellous are the costumes in which the male portion of the visitors attract the attention and, for aught I know to the contrary, the admiration of the fair sex. For what reason I know not, Hessian boots extending high above the knee are extensively patronised even by such men as Offenbach, Prdvost-Paradol, etc. Now, as — unless you deliberately walk into the sea — you have no more chance of wetting your lower extremities at Etretat than in Oxford Street, the object of this precautionary measure I never could fathom. Some men — evidently the " swells " — break out in entire knicker- bocker suits of white flannel ; others in bright blue ; and a few in black velvet. The ordinary " tile " is naturally discarded, and the brilliant scarlet berret of the fishermen universally adopted. These patches of bright colour scattered on the beach have an admirable effect. A sudden movement among the knickerbockers aroused our attention, and a rush to the water's edge " motive" as we 6 WASHING AND CROQUET perceived, by the approach of fishing-smacks, returning after twelve hours' absence. Roughly as these boats are built, they are especially picturesque and graceful in their shape. The dark brown sails, patched and discoloured, tell of many a storm-tossed night and many a day of hardship. On a boat coming in, the women of the village swarm down to the beach, their first motive being to hear the news, and the next to wind up the windlass by which each smack is hauled up on the beach high above the water-mark. Men take no part in this arduous undertaking. I have seen as many as twelve women engaged for half an hour in pushing round the spokes of the huge wheel by which the rope to which the boat is attached is wound up on shore, whilst crowds of men and boys looked on without the slightest offer of putting their own shoulders to the wheel. I am not an advocate for women's right of voting as a general principle, but I maintain these women have as good a right as their ungallant other halves to have a voice in the councils of the nation. Mr. Stuart Mill ought to come to Etretat. The washing establishment of the village is a most primi- tive institution. On washing-day you may see some dozens of women kneeling on the beach, delving amongst the shingle till they each make a circular basin-shaped hole amongst the stones. If you watch for a few minutes, this hole is speedily filled by fresh water, in which your shirts and collars are sub- merged and acquire a far better colour than under the eau de javelle process, so extensively practised by your Parisian blanchisseuse. The most curious fact is that when the tide is in, the sea covers this part of the beach, and completely washes over the holes recently made by the blanchisseuses. Nevertheless, the supply of soft water never fails, and is, the women assured me, of the best quality. I can assert that my shirts were remarkably well washed. Croquet flourishes amongst the English colony. A member of that respected portion of the community informed me, in a tone Lord Dundreary himself would have envied, " Etretat is looking up, I have played three games to-day." The AT ETRETAT 7 ground is reached along a perfect labyrinth of green lanes, overshadowed by beeches and oaks ; on either side are charming residences of every possible style of architecture, each surrounded by brilliant flower gardens and masses of wood. That of Madame Dorus Gras is most picturesque — the house being on the side of the valley, with the pleasure grounds sloping down to the road. M. de Villemessant's is perched on a rock, defying the elements, after a most un- comfortable manner. But, alas for France ! Croquet will never be acclimatised beneath her sunny skies, any more than cricket, in spite of the efforts of the club and its spirited president The French look on while we play, but they " do not see it." Meanwhile let me recommend La Pass^e, where this popular game is celebrated, to the serious attention of all persons engaged in love-making or flirting of any kind. The romantic wood which clothes the hillside is eminently designed for the re- search after botanical or entomological specimens, or for the pursuit of sylvian studies in general. It is rich in spots peculiarly appropriate to those tite-d-tites wherein brown hats are to be seen in close propinquity to scarlet berrets. And when these shady groves have been duly explored, you have but to cross the hillside to find yourself on the downs, from the edge of which the white cliffs shelve in a perpendicular line to the sea. A charming expedition is that to the Chambre des Demoi- selles. Once upon a time the castle of a Norman count crowned this peak. A Saxon chief loved his daughter. But the Norman scorned the Saxon alliance. The fair Clothilde pined in her bower, and looked out towards the sea. One moonlight night a man's form appeared at her turret window. It was the Saxon with a rope of silken scarves. She allowed him to lower her into the boat which had conveyed him across the Channel. This done, he prepared to follow ; but, lo! he stumbled, and fell into the boiling surf, never to rise. The young lady expiated her attempted escape by perpetual imprisonment in the Chambre des Demoiselles. The spot 8 VICTIMS OF THE SEA where her lover sank to rise no more is called Le Trou k r Homme. It's a lovely story merely ; I beg leave to doubt that a castle ever existed on the cliff. The fragments re- presenting the said chambre, to my eye, bear a strong family resemblance to the rocks that lie scattered around. Un- romantic this, but, nevertheless, true. Another expedition, but one which involves almost goat- like activity, is that to the Chaudron on the opposite cliff. On the way thither you pass the little chapel de N6tre Dame du Bon Secour, where the wives of fishermen out on distant expeditions pray, day and night, for their husbands' safe return, and, confident in the Virgin's power to save, deposit their little offerings at her shrine. Passing this rudely-sculp- tured chapel, you proceed along the falaise till you perceive steps cut in the rock, by which, supposing you to be endowed with peculiar tenacity of purpose, you descend to the level of the sea, and find yourself at the entrance of a gallery bored in the solid stone by the action of the tide. Having crept through this narrow passage, you reach a fissure in the cliff called the Chaudron. In rough weather, or at high tide, the sea rushes up this fissure in clouds of steaming foam. This spot invariably recalls to my memory one very similar on the south-western coast of Ireland, where, not many summers since, I joined a party of friends. One stormy afternoon we set forth from their house to observe the effect of the gathering tempest from a projecting rock, called the Puffing Hole, there being in its centre a large hole through which, in rough weather, the sea rises in columns of spray, producing the effect of a monster jet d'eau. Our party consisted of my friend and his wife, and two daughters, the youngest of whom on this fatal afternoon leant on the arm of an officer in the army, to whom she was engaged. The walk was rendered most unpleasant in consequence of the rising wind ; but we considered ourselves amply repaid by the magnificence of the scene. The Atlantic was literally lashed to fury. Never had the waves risen to such amazing height. The lovers stood together on the brink of the slippery rock. The columns of water forced by the violence of the waves through the hole ETRETAT'S ROMANCE , 9 rose to some sixty or seventy feet high. Well-nigh blinded by the clouds of spray, we turned to leave the spot when a wild shriek, louder than the storm, pierced the air, and we saw a whirling, struggling mass disappear from the rock. Twenty- four hours later the corpses of Emily C and Colonel S were washed on shore — fast locked in each other's arms. The young girl's mother died a few months afterwards of the effects of the shock. Etretat has also its romance. Amongst many English visitors there arrived in the autumn of 1 86- the daughter of an English peer. The lady lived alone. She was a fervent Catholic, and, although somewhat eccentric in her habits, she was evidently a person of cultivated mind and artistic tastes. Months elapsed. Winter, in all its bleak desolation, made of Etretat the most lonely spot on the coast. Still the lady dwelt with her little Norman maid in the cottage on the cliff. Another summer and autumn brought the usual influx of visitors, but the lady mixed not with them. She lived apart, and for all amusement went out boating, attended by her little maid. The boat the lady preferred belonged to Cyrille, a fisherman, whose daring exploits at sea had won for him the sobriquet of " Le Hardi." His fiancie had died on the eve of their marriage. This sudden grief imparted a sadness to his manner which subdued its native roughness. Moreover, he was marvellously well-looking. At the close of the second winter, the marriage of Le Hardi and the English lady of the cottage on the cliff was celebrated at the ancient Norman church by the old cure of the village. The world of Etretat greatly marvelled. " Que voulez vous ? — the lady has money," said the world. Five weeks elapsed. A white sea-gull flew past the cottage window and perched on a distant cliff. The lady wished for its wing to place in her hat. Cyrille took his gun — her gift to him — and, promising to return in a few hours, kissed his bride — his last kiss — for the gun burst, and he was carried home a lifeless corpse. A window of peculiar beauty and splendid colouring in the ancient Norman church bears the following inscription : — "A la Memoire de Cyrille." THE FLOWERS OF PARIS FLOWERS have the rare privilege of being loved by all — by the rich as well as by the poor, by the civilised as well as by the savage. It is not only in the midst of plenty that people conceive the idea of emjDellishing their dwellings with flowers. Their cultivation on a large scale among the French peasantry and by the poorer classes of great cities, has, perhaps, contributed more to the civilising of the coarser organs than all the treatises of philosophy ever penned. Those who have studied French life in its different phases can testify that a honeysuckle around the door of a cottage, or a jessamine on a window-sill, are always good omens to a tired traveller. For my part I know of a pro- fessional beggar in Paris who only tunes his harp and sings before those houses on whose balconies ivy, nasturtium, or sweet pea are struggling for existence, well aware that the hand which cultivates plants can never be closed against the supplications of the poor. At one of the windows of the house in which I live are a few geraniums, a fuchsia, and a rose. I always notice that it is before this window that those who have obtained a licence to beg congregate, very certain that from the flower-pots will fall something to their advantage. Fortunately, however, flowers do not attract the attention of beggars alone. Many are the great men and women of France who have held these floral apostles in reverence ; many have been the consolations derived by kings and queens from their twined petals and perfumed breath. Louis XIV. specially loved the scent of the orange blossom, and had one huge tree in every room of his palace. Mdlle. MARIE ANTOINETTE ii de la Valliere, wishing to conceal her state, surrounded her- self with tuberoses, the scent of which, although peculiarly- agreeable to the Grand Roi, was considered as fatal to women in her situation. Marie Antoinette was passionately- fond of flowers, and constantly wore natural ones on her Court dresses. On the morning of the day on which she was to receive for the first time the Emperor and Empress of Russia, travelling under the name of the Comte and Comtesse du Nord, the Queen desired her tirewoman to bring the dress she was to wear into her boudoir, and wreathe it with fresh flowers according to her own directions. The woman was thus employed when Louis XVI. and one of his ministers entered ; the King looked surprised, as his visit had been announced. " You will pardon this breach of etiquette," explained the Queen, " but the flowers are natural, and would fade if not arranged at once." The flowers she loved so well conveyed to her the last pleasurable sensation she experienced in life. When immured in the dark and damp dungeon still to be seen at the Conciergerie, Madame Richard, the wife of the concierge of the prison, brought her daily a bouquet of the flowers she had always preferred — pinks, tuberoses, and above all, her favourite Juliennes. For this innocent act was Madame Richard denounced to the revolutionary tribunal and imprisoned. In later years another, who likewise occupied a throne, and was also hurled from her high estate to reap the bitter fruits of humiliation, devoted her latter days of solitude to the cultivation of flowers. The Empress Josephine's gardens at Malmaison were the wonder of her time. With the aid of her gardener, Dupont, she collected every variety of rose then known in Belgium, Holland and England, and even succeeded in raising many new varieties still in high repute in the horticultural world. The lily and violet have played an important role in the history of France. Under the Bourbon dynasty, the great actress, Mdlle. Mars, was hissed and insulted because she appeared on the stage with a bouquet of violets, that flower having been selected by the first Emperor as his emblem. 12 ROSES AND LILACS The circumstance was the cause of several duels being fought. In France at present the rose is the favourite flower. I believe but one woman ever lived who hated the very sight of that blossom, and still more its perfume, and that woman was Anne of Austria. At the present moment roses are the fashion, and specially sought for by lovers and fiances. In winter, as well as in summer, four hundred pounds' worth of roses are sold in Paris alone, which makes 4,320,000 roses in the year. As it is the custom in France only to give white roses to young girls, even throughout the winter, the gardeners of the environs have invented a special system of forcing by which this flower can be produced at any time of the year. Rose trees are placed under frames at a heat of 20 Reaumur for thirty to forty days, during which time the plant, whatever be the original colour of its blossoms, pro- duces white roses. To alter the colour of the plant this heat is gradually increased and every ray of light excluded from the frame during the last days previous to the opening of the flowers. The white lilac plants and bouquets, sold at so high a price in the streets of Paris during winter, are pro- duced in this manner. Many are the purchasers of white lilac plants who, having carefully preserved them during the winter, have planted them out in their gardens in the spring and been amazed to see their delicate white blossoms repro- duced in the coaser kind of the common tree lilac. This fact very nearly caused the rupture of a long engagement between two young friends of mine, which engagement had, however, stood the test of time and much opposition. A few years ago the young j^^wc/^ received from her lover a beautiful plant of white lilac, covered with delicate blossoms and pale sea-green leaves. I am not learned in the language of flowers, but I am instructed by one less ignorant than myself that white lilac signifies constancy, and I know not how many other equally valuable attributes. It was a parting gift. Victor de M was to start the following morning for Algeria, to join his regiment of Spahis quartered at Blidah. Lucille well-nigh killed the plant with care, for the fiance was to THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS 13 return in spring and claim her for his bride ; her whole heart was set, therefore, on its reflowering then. Truly the poor lilac recovered marvellously (when planted out in the open ground) from the evil effects of spending a winter in the heated atmosphere of a drawing-room, and grew and put forth leaves, but lo 1 they were a horrid dark green, and blossoms came of a vulgar lilac such as one gathers in the hedgerows. The very next day after this discovery Victor de M returned, and horror ! his first inquiry was for the white lilac, for he had attached a superstitious interest to its reflowering. Lucille vainly tried to turn his thoughts to another subject, biit he persisted, and, at last, with a beating heart, she led him to the sunny spot in the garden where it was flourishing, and at that moment a mass of lilac flowers. " But that's not the plant I gave you." "Mais si, I have taken such care of it." " That is not my plant ; that has been given to you by someone else — by your cousin perhaps in the Garde Imperiale, that Alphonse, as you call him, who was always hanging about, and, now I think of it, bringing you flowers besides." In vain his betrothed assured him that it was the very plant he had given her on that last day when she had shed such bitter tears. She admitted the transformation was strange — inexplicable ; but she had prayed so much to the Blessed Virgin, maybe it was a special mark of her favour — a miracle, in fact. "Sapristi! Miracle, indeed! Cousin Alphonse, in the Garde Imperiale, was the miracle, and it was for his sake, or for the sake of his uniform, she had watered it, and wept over it, and prayed to the Virgin over it, and — and " A thought struck poor Lucille at this crisis. "You re- member where you purchased the plant?" Certainly he remembered — at Montreuil, and it had taken him half a day to get there ; and he might have saved himself that journey and another beside it. " Will you return there," sobbingly asked his fiancee, " and relate what has occurred, for my sake ? " 14 THE STORY OF Not he. He wouldn't go to Montreuil with such a coq d-l'dne story. The case was plain. He would return to his regiment, and never think of woman again. They were all alike for that matter, as his father had often told him, and his colonel and all his comrades — only he had thought Lucille was different. It is easy to get into a rage and storm away, but it is not always quite so easy to act up to what one has said in the white heat of jealousy. The ride from Ville d'Avray to Paris was long, and M. le Lieutenant had scarcely cantered down the avenue of my friend's chateau before he repented his hasty words. The thought occurred to him he might as well turn his horse's head towards Versailles and dine at Duboux, and perhaps in the evening he would take Montreuil on his way home. True, it would be fourteen miles ! What cared he for fatigue ? Life was all one to him now. He had come from Algeria — and, by-the-by, given up the chance of a lion hunt with Pertuiset — all for the sake of the veriest coquette that ever breathed ; but he ought to have thought of it before. That Alphonse was always at Ville d'Avray, and, besides, his regiment of La Garde had been quartered at Versailles that winter. So convenient a lounge too — ^just ten minutes by rail. However, for the curiosity of the thing, and just to clear his conscience, he would go to Montreuil, and never mind the dinner at Duboux. And to Montreuil he rode, and at a slapping pace too, very much as if he cared to get there. On reaching the gate of the nursery garden his heart beat somewhat quickly. " Was Monsieur Bertin in the gardens ? " Monsieur was engaged — he was making up a bouquet de manage, for which he was selecting the flowers. " Monsieur le Lieutenant would find him at the white-lilac frames." " Ravi de revoir, monsieur," exclaimed old Bertin, on again seeing his excellent customer. " I am making up the wedding bouquet of the great heiress who is to marry Capitaine " " Hang the bouquet ! " thought Victor de M , as he ruthlessly interrupted his loquacious friend by a succinct LUCILLE AND VICTOR 15 narrative of what was said to have occurred to his last purchase, adding that naturally he did not believe in any such transformation. " Pardon, M. le Lieutenant, rien de plus simple. This is my forcing-house. There are three hundred lilacs ; their blossoms, as you see, are white, their leaves pale green. Next spring I plant them out ; they become common lilacs, or rather return to what they originally were. Here is my system." " Merci ! " cried Victor de M , " I am rather in a hurry, as I have to get back to Ville d'Avray before dusk " ; and so saying he dashed out of the garden, much to the amazement of my quiet old friend Bertin and to the discomfiture of an officer in the uniform of La Garde, against whom he knocked as he tried to rush out of the narrow gate. As he raised his k^pi and attempted to apologise, he recog- nised the identical cousin Alphonse he had so much belied. " So you have returned from Algeria. I invite you to ray wedding to-morrow. I marry Mdlle. Bonnefonds, the millionaire," said the latter, after a hurried recognition. " Ah, I congratulate you," responded Victor, as he jumped on his horse. One month later I received my billet de faire part for the marriage of M. le Lieutenant Victor de M— and the fair Lucille ; and as the bride swept past me in the aisle of the cathedral church of St. Louis, at Versailles, a delicious frag- rance of white lilac perfumed the air, and I remarked that her bridal robes were profusely adorned with that graceful flower. The nursery gardens of Paris are well worthy the attention of the visitor. The most interesting, however, is that belong- ing to the city, known by the name of the Fleuriste de la Muette, situated at the Passy gate, in the Bois de Boulogne. This vast horticultural laboratory contains about forty hot- houses, some of which are of colossal proportions. There are few roses cultivated here, for the simple reason that their flowers are invariably robbed during the night by lovers anxious to win a smile from their various lady-loves by the offering of a rose. It required at least three sergents de ville 1 6 HORTICULTUBAL in each square, and several more in such open gardens as the Champs Elys^es and the Pare Monceaux, to defend the roses. This being considered a somewhat superfluous duty by M. le Prdfet de Police, who required his men for different work, roses are but sparingly bestowed on the inhabitants of Paris. In the establishment in question, which is one of the most extensive in Europe, and the largest in France, fuchsias, cannas, pelargoniums, verbenas, calceolarias, ageretums,] and chrysanthemums are chiefly cultivated. Three thousand frames shelter the young plants from the changes and chances of this variable climate, and immense subterranean chambers, lighted and heated by gas, preserve the bulbous plants during the winter. One immense hothouse is devoted to the rear- ing of the palm trees so successfully planted out during the summer months, four to camellia trees, and several to solanums, caladiums, begonias, hibiscus, musa gigantea, wigandea, etc. Qne hundred gardeners alone are occupied in the task of multiplying these plants, whose number this year amounted to 3,000,000. The City Nursery Gardens possess 350 varieties of fuchsias, represented by 100,000 plants. Of pelargoniums there are 200,000 plants, of which 15,000 are of the kind so popular in England called Mrs. Pollock. I saw but one specimen of the Lucy Greve, which single specimen is taken as much care of as though it were a delicate young duchess. Of the palm tribe, these gardens possess 400 different species, and have 20,000 trees at this moment scattered over the various public gardens of the capital, where, thanks to the immense care bestowed on them, they thrive, as will be remembered by those who visited the Pare Monceaux this summer. Several thousand are likewise employed to decorate the Imperial residences, and more especially the apartments of the Empress, who much admires their graceful form. The amorphi, with which the Tuileries Palace is decorated on f^te nights, are here cultivated on a large scale ; and I was informed by the Chef Multiplicateur, who accompanied me through the gardens, that for a ball no less than 60,000 of these flowers were forwarded to the LABORATORIES 17 palace. Of camellias I was shown 1,400 varieties. One greenhouse is filled with plants in a state of convales- cence, struggling back to life and health after a season of dissipation, sufferers from their many appearances at Court balls, State dinners to sovereigns at the H6tel de Ville, soiries at Princess Mathilde's, and all public entertainments ; and, poor camellias ! they had a hard life of it this year, what with the Emperor of Russia, the Sultan, and all the rest of the Royalties — they had scarcely a night of fresh air, and indeed their appearance tells of gas-lighted corridors and stifling saloons. Another greenhouse is occupied by camellia trees kept in reserve, from which blossoms are cut and fastened on any bare branch of the trees intended for the decoration of one of these Court or Ministerial f^tes. Of these, four have historic interest. Each measures from twenty to twenty-five feet in height. These, with two others, were sent to France in the year 18 14, as gifts from Emperor Francis to his daughter Empress Marie Louise, and were then con- sidered as Imperial gifts of no slight value, each plant then valuing one hundred and twenty pounds. Two alone have died. The four that remain are in splendid health, and are at this moment covered with buds. The Empress Eugenie's apartments, at whatever palace she may occupy, are supplied with fresh plants to the number of eighty or a hundred twice every week. When Her Majesty is in Paris it is the duty of the chief city gardener to see to this. He personally superin- tends the selection of the plants, which are conveyed to the Tuileries in a covered spring cart. Her bouquets are sent daily. On entering the fern houses I was struck by the subdued light which was produced without the aid of blinds. I remarked that all these houses had a white appearance on the glass as of a substance smeared over it. On inquiry I learnt that this shade was favourable to the growth of weak plants, and was obtained by a composition of blanc d'Espagne and colle de poisson — whiting and isinglass — which, once applied with a brush, cannot be washed off by rain or snow. Ferns and plants whose chief beauty consists in their foliage i8 FRENCH GAHDENERS are now more the fashion in Paris than mere flowering shrubs, as they are considered more decorative. Ferns are therefore specially cultivated, and being the tenderest foster- lings of nature, it is no wonder they are tended with so much care and attention. The grand object of every French gardener is not only to shelter them from the direct rays of the burning sun, but to produce for their benefit that moist and still atmosphere which prevails in tropical climes. Some of these festooning the branches and trunks of trees sent from Australia on account of the rare ferns attached to their bark are of extreme delicacy of structure, and I could not help admiring the wiry drapery of their verdant fronds. Much struck was I also with the specimens of the lycopodium, sending out their runners or creeping stems in all directions, to the length of many yards, which strike deep in the turf below, taking root there and thus multiplying the plant ad infinitum, and without the intervention of the talented Chef Multiplicateur, to whose intelligence and kind consideration I owe these details. What strikes one most in the treatment adopted by French gardeners is that their shrubs and fruit trees seem to be cut and shaped, and follow a fashion, as do our coats and waistcoats. Of this, for instance, you have a proof in the laying out of some of the Paris squares, and more especially in the fantastic forms given to the yew trees and hedges which skirt the alleys and terraces of the Pare of Versailles, the stiff formality of which is eminently suggestive of the stately and dignified manners of the Court of the Grand Monarque. Even the twining, graceful ivy, trained screen-wise against the railings of the palaces in Paris, is trained to grow in even undulations. The artificial and somewhat stiff regu- larity with which the geraniums, fuchsias, etc., are planted, in admirable contrast as to colour, it is true, leads one to fancy that the system of training adopted for the schoolboys of France is now being applied to French flowers. The latter, it must be allowed, appear to prosper marvellously well under this system of Imperial discipline. LETTERS August 2Zth, 1864. IN the Figaro there appears a most amusing letter soi- disant from the " spirite " of Madame de S^vign^, remon- strating in most pathetic language against the statue which is proposed to be erected to her memory at Vichy. She complains of the unfair harshness of the decree which con- demns her, merely because her letters to her daughter were agreeably written, either to stand upright in the middle of a public square, or, like Moliere, to sit eternally on a fountain at the corner of a street. She implores posterity to spare her being thus held up to ridicule, and suggests that the money voted for the purpose be distributed among distressed authors, or devoted to the erection of an institution for their support in old age or sickness. Of the late fetes at Versailles, an amusing episode has come to my knowledge. After the opera, it had been the Empress's intention to amuse her royal guest by a promenade in the gardens of the palace, which were illuminated by myriads of coloured lights, and whence the fireworks could be better seen than from the windows of the palace. The gods, however, were not propitious, and the Emperor decided against needlessly running the chance of being thoroughly drenched. Her Imperial Majesty had no idea of sacrificing any part of her programme, and, turning to the King of Spain, said : " II ne pleut pas ; Sire, votre bras," and sallied forth, the Emperor being thus compelled to follow. The result was that the crowd, surprised at seeing the Court party in evening costume and blazing with diamonds on the terrace, burst through the lines of soldiers who ought to have 19 20 VICTOR HUGO'S BUST kept a clear space as far as the Fontaine de Latone for them, and literally mobbed the Imperial party. With his usual tact, however, the Emperor, addressing the people, said : " Mes amis, je vous ai c6d6 la fdte ; amusez vous bien, mais de grfice laissez nous circuler," which words had a magical effect. August 2gth. Orders have been sent to the naval authorities to hasten the departure of the various transports under orders for Vera Cruz to bring home the French troops from Mexico. The first regiments are expected to arrive here about the middle of October ; their entrance into Paris will of course be the excuse for a grand military fdte, at which the National Guard will probably display the same laudable zeal for self-preserva- tion which they evinced after the last review, returning as they did either sheltered under umbrellas or comfortably ensconed in cabs, carts, or nondescript vehicles, to the infinite amusement of the lookers-on. M. Delangle, Vice-President of the Senate, in a speech to the Agricultural Committee of Cosne, was most eloquent on the subject of liberty, stating that the year 1789 had been the era of the emancipation of French intellect, and pro- claiming, amidst the enthusiastic cheers of his audience, that the spirit of civilisation had transformed every part of the world where the flag of liberty floated. These fine sentiments fall harmlessly on the ears of Nivernois peasants, but I venture to counsel Monsieur Delangle to alter his tone when next he apostrophises the Senate, otherwise he will have to endure the mortification of seeing his photograph disappear* from the prominent position it occupies at Nadar's : at least, if I may judge by the curious document which emanated yesterday from the Ministere de I'lntdrieur, bearing the signature of one of the heads of the Home Office, M. Juilleret, who, poet though he be, and of mean merit, is evidently not an admirer of Victor Hugo. This document is a reply to a demand made by M. Leboeuf, a sculptor, for POACHING 21 permission to sell copies of a bust which he has just executed at Jersey of Victor Hugo, of a striking likeness and remark- able execution. After some legal preliminaries the minister, through M. Juilleret, consents to the sale on the following peculiar and express condition, namely, that copies of the bust intended for sale should on no pretence whatever be exhibited either in the windows or in any exposed part of a shop — d la condition expresse de ne mettre ce buste ni aux vitrines ni i I'italage. Is this meant as a ministerial joke ? Poaching has become a standard evil in France, and the most stringent measures are about to be adopted for its prevention. Although shooting is only to commence on the 3rd of next month, which is somewhat later than usual, game has already been sold in Paris, every imaginable expedient being resorted to in order to elude the vigilance of the custom-house officers stationed at the barriers. Their atten- tion was last week attracted by the unusual number of pigeons and fowls brought into the market. On investigating these innocent-looking birds, they proved to be partridges and pheasants in disguise — "wolves in sheep's clothing." Last Friday, at the St. Lazare Station, the unusual dimen- sions of a crinoline having created some surprise, the fair wearer was politely requested to step into the waiting-room, when, with the aid of some of the female employees, no less than forty partridges were detached from the above-mentioned "cage," as in this instance the lady's garment might with every truth be denominated. August list. A most singular trial has taken place at Madrid. A soldier was cited last week before the police-court for having stolen a gold cup of considerable value, which had been placed as a votive offering on one of the numerous altars dedicated in that city to the Virgin. The soldier at once explained that he and his family being in great distress, he had appealed to the Holy Mother for assistance, and that while engaged in prayer and contemplation of the four millions' worth of 22 THE RULE OF THE JOCE.EY CLUB jewels displayed on her brocaded petticoat, she stooped, and, with a charming smile, handed him the golden Cup. This explanation was received by the court in profound silence, and the case handed over to the ecclesiastical commission, to whom it at once occurred that, however inconvenient the admission of the miracle might be, it would be highly im- politic to dispute its possibility. They therefore gave the cup to the soldier, at the same time solemnly warning him for the future against similar favours from images of any kind, and impressing him with the conviction that the Virgin required profound silence from him as a proof of his gratitude. September /\.th. A curious autograph of Tasso was sold to-day, which gives an insight into the poet's early struggles : " I, the under- signed, acknowledge to have received from Abraham Levy 25 livres, for which sum I have pledged a sword of my father's, six shirts, and two silver spoons." The document bears the date of March 2nd, 1 570, at which time Tasso was twenty-six. The Jockey Club, before whose decrees the fashionable world bend, have decided that the English custom of shaking hands is henceforth to be considered the correct thing ; and furthermore, in order to protect ladies from the annoyance of having to return the bows of any man who may choose to take off his hat to them in public, the English fashion is to be adopted of ladies bowing first. The lions of this very exclusive and aristocratic club, in their anxiety to imitate rivals on your side of the water, not only employ English tailors, but cultivate beards i I'Anglaise, which genre being copied by the less privileged loungers of the boule- vards, the outward appearance of the male portion of the Parisian public is undergoing a process of transformation. In the absence of all political news, the French papers are. entirely occupied by the ascent of the Geant from Brussels. THE LIFE OF JULIUS CAESAR 23 The interest King Leopold showed in its success has flattered the vanity of M. Nadar's concitoyens, and every detail is minutely given of his interview with the King. The differ- ence of weight between the French and Belgic gas, the latter being so much heavier, caused a considerable delay in the first start. The King inquired if all was going on well. " Not yet," replied Nadar ; " but now that your Majesty has arrived, I have no fear as to the result." "Above all," said the King, "be sure to throw out your ballast in Belgium. I have sworn to preserve intact I'intigriti du territoire." The evening previous to their departure from Chalons, the Emperor, Prince Humbert, and General Roon escorted the Prince Imperial to see Punch and Judy performed at the soldiers' theatre. The Emperor and the Prince Imperial laughed immoderately at the well-known conjugal squabbles with which we are so familiar. Towards the conclusion, one of the colonels present went up to the Emperor and reminded him that he had not paid for his place. The Emperor, look- ing rather puzzled, asked what he was to give. " A cross of the Legion d'Honneur to one of my captains, sire ; he is the bravest officer in your Majesty's service," which was, of course, instantly and very graciously bestowed. The price at which Henri Plon is about to publish the Emperor's Life of Caesar, viz. 6 f per volume, has caused severe animadversion. Henri Plon has already published the four volumes Louis Napoleon wrote when a prisoner at Ham, and must have made a good thing of it ; but their price being 40 f (;^i i6j.), there has never been the slightest fear that the Republican ideas they contain should be disseminated among the people, by whose suffrage, however, their author was called to the throne. It is admitted as natural that this Life of Caesar, emanating as it does from an Imperial pen, should be got up with a certain expense, printed on good paper, etc., but at least, it is said, let there be a cheap edition for the people. As they chose the man, it is only fair to allow them to read his thoughts and inspire themselves with his ideas. 24 AUSTRIA AND ITALY September gtk. Madame de Sevignd, in one of her wittiest letters, previous to announcing to Madame de Grignan the startling intelli- gence that La Grande Mademoiselle, to whom four thrones had been successively offered, was actually going to marry an ordinary mortal — a mere duke — puzzled her daughter by stating that the fact she had to write was the most wonderful, the most surprising, the most astonishing, etc., of events, and proceeded to say she would give her ten, nay twenty, even a hundred guesses, and yet she defied her to hit on the truth. Had I not more regard for your precious time before reveal- ing to you the news which has been to-day the gossip of political salons, I might string together a chapter of adjectives no less marvellous than those of Madame de S^vignd. It appears — what shall we hear of next? — that Italy — I mean the kingdom of Italy — is on the point of being recognised by — I am really tempted to let you guess — by no less illustrious personages than all the Hapsburgs collectively and individually ! It certainly sounds more than improbable, and the Ind^pendance Beige doubts the possibility of those august Imperial Highnesses and Majesties being sufficiently up to the time of day to show so much common sense. It is thought, however, to be a clever dodge of the Cabinet of Vienna, who, by thus flattering Victor Emmanuel, hope to induce the Unitarian party of Italy to renounce their cherished hope of liberating Venetia. Even this argument would not, I think, stand good. Austria well knows that to free Venice from her hated and hateful yoke is the dream of every true Italian, and that Victor Emmanuel is not the man to be cajoled by any amount of Court ceremonial into so disgraceful a compromise. Last Sunday the f^te Les Loges, at St. Germain, took place. During the Restoration this fete was patronised by the world of fashion. The amount of wine drunk in one single day came to 19,200 bottles, besides beer, etc. In those palmy TAN AS MANURE 25 days the clowns who came down from Paris were often most amusing and witty. I remember having been present with several of the beau monde when a mountebank, enumerating the treasures contained in his anatomical collection, men- tioned the skull of the Duke of Wellington. " The Duke's skull ! " cried out someone present. " Why, he is alive and perfectly well ! " " Of course," said the showman, " I am aware of that ; but this is his skull when he was a child ! Walk in, ladies and gentleman, and you wrll never spend money more profitably." September 12th. The Debats of Saturday received a communication from the Minist^re because it ventured to comment on the changes in the names of the streets — a harmless subject, I should have thought. September \'^th. A farmer of Troyes having remarked that while the cholera was raging in that town some years ago the inhabitants of every house in the neighbourhood of tan-yards escaped the disease, has turned his observation to profit as to the cultiva- tion of the potato. Previous to planting his potatoes he takes a shovelful of tan, which he throws into the hole. The whole of a field thus manured with tan has produced a magnificent crop, whilst an adjoining tract of land, which had not under- gone this preparation, has only yielded diseased roots. It appears that potatoes, after being gathered, and placed in a cellar containing tan, are equally preserved from disease. The mystery of the Iron Mask again occupies the attention of bibliophiles, and a new and rather amusing story is circulated in literary papers this week on the subject. It states that the Iron Mask induced the governor of the Bastille to admit a lady, who, for a very large sum settled on her, consented to share his prison life. A son was born, who was transported to Corsica, in the charge of a person who was 26 THE EXECUTION OF told that he came di buona parte ; or, in other words, that he was well born. The idea started is that this child was the ancestor of Napoleon I. September i^th. At the agricultural show of the Vaucluse a young girl of twenty won the first prize at the ploughing match, although there were several male competitors and she had to manage four horses. A private letter from Foix contains the most curious details regarding Jacques Latour, who was guillotined the day before yesterday for his share in the murder of the four inhabitants of Chateau Baillard. It appears that on Sunday Latour re- ceived the gaol chaplain with respect, and listened to his prayers and exhortations with apparent attention, even accept- ing a crucifix and some books he had previously refused. This improved state of mind lasted till the gaoler entered his cell at five o'clock to handcuff him. Latour seemed surprised ; but the gaoler, who has shown the utmost forbearance towards him, explained with great caution that his last hour was approaching, as the execution was to take place at seven the following morning. For a moment Latour seemed to be stunned, then, becoming perfectly furious, he broke out in the most fearful language, cursing the judges, jury, and society in general — " The demons, the anthropophagi, and that chaplain, an aide-de-camp of Satan, perhaps Lucifer incarnate." His howls and shouts of rage seemed to excite him the more, and, catching the crucifix with his manacled hands, he broke it into bits with his teeth, spitting out the fragments with a con- centrated rage that was awful to witness. Suddenly he made a dash at the books, and, throwing them on the ground, sneeringly said, " Ah, the old chaplain will be delighted when he comes, but he need not show himself — gare!" Then, hearing a ring at the door of his cell, " Ha, here is the fellow, Satan — Lucifer ! I will inform him that to-morrow I shall sing, ' De le Gargouille ' " (a most obscene song). " That will JACQUES LATOUR 27 be fun ! " The aged chaplain, whose patience and devotion to the miserable wretch had been beyond praise, then asked for a final interview. " See him ? Not I ! I only want to see the executioners." At six on Monday morning the chaplain was, however, in attendance, determined to do his duty to the last. "Old sinner, what do you want?" was Latour's greeting. " Lucifer, avaunt ! Go and see your friend Satan. Ah, how glad I shall be to see him ! Jacques Latour is not the man to fear him. It will be the other way — Satan will be afraid of him ! " His breakfast was brought to him, which he had ordered the night before. "This is first-rate beef," said he ; " but I should have preferred a slice of my own leg, and if anyone had fried a bit for me I should have been obliged ! " At a quarter to seven the gendarmes came to convey him to the carriage. As he walked along the corri- dors he heard one of the horses neigh. "Ah, I hear Rosinante, Don Quixote de la Mancha's steed." Then, seeing the young daughter of the gaoler, he called out, " Ah, there is Dulcinea Toboso, the lady of my thoughts. Good morning, Dulcinea." He wished to walk to the place of execution, but as it rained, he got into the carriage, the aged chaplain following on foot evidently absorbed in prayer, looking deeply distressed. A picquet of soldiers and several brigades of gendarmes sur- rounded the scaffold. The crowd was tremendous, but perfectly silent, even when the carriage was in sight, Latour standing in it and singing in a loud voice, " La Mere Gaspard," a song very popular among the people. He smashed one of the glasses with his head before getting out of the carriage. , As he reached the foot of the scaffold, the chaplain again attempted to speak to him, but Latour turned to the execu- tioner and ascended the steps of the scaffold, singing, in so stentorian a voice that every word was heard over the place, the parody he himself composed of the " Marseillaise " — " AUons, pauvre victim e. Ton jour de mort est arrivd ; Centre toi de la tyrannie Le couteau sanglant est levd ! " 28 ILLUSTRATED EGGS He continued to sing on the platform and while he was being tied to the bascule, and, literally, the sound of his voice only ceased when his head fell into the basket beneath the guillotine. There was not the slightest expression of sym- pathy among the crowd, who seemed utterly disgusted. September lytk. Last Saturday the town of Saumur was thrown into a state of the utmost excitement, yet neither Vermout, Fille de I'Air, nor the Emperor had made their appearance. Neither less nor more than a miracle had taken place ; not, indeed, that a dying person had been restored, or a beatific vision rejoiced the soul of some true daughter of the Church : it was simply a hen that had suddenly acquired the power of laying illus- trated eggs. Her last performance in this line, triumphantly exhibited to one thousand persons who congregated in the Rue de la Visitation, was an egg bearing a raised sphere on which a cross, a sun and a Latin inscription were clearly visible. The attention of the police was at last attracted, and the miraculous hen was put in charge of one of that respected body, who received strict orders to mount guard on the marvellous bird till eggs should be laid. This second egg proved even more rich in clerical designs than the first, an "Ecce Homo," a weeping Magdalen, and an inscription, this time in French, appearing to the puzzled policeman's astonished gaze. A prods-verbal was made out, and the aiifair tried at the petty sessions ; it was explained by the well-known process of drawing in wax on the egg and plung- ing it for two minutes in a bath of hydrochloric acid. September v^th. If we are to believe the Correspondance Fhdale of Berlin, the King of Prussia had good reason to be pleased with his interview with Empress Eugenie, as the Emperor had com- missioned her to assure him of the very cordial feelings he PUMPKIN FETE 29 entertains at this moment for Prussia. The Correspondance states that the Empress, who takes the deepest interest in the political destiny of France, has been seriously offended by the supercilious and overbearing spirit in which England has thrown over her alliance with France. The enthusiasm with which Garibaldi was received in England offended the Empress much more than the Emperor, and suggested to her the propriety of seeking among Continental Powers for an ally less uncertain and more to be relied on than England. The reception given in France to General von Roon, the Minister of War of Prussia, confirms the Correspondance F^odale in the opinion that the Court of the Tuileries wishes to prove its friendly disposition towards that of Berlin. I am firmly convinced that the tone adopted by Earl Russell in his diplomatic communications with the Tuileries has dis- pleased the Emperor, whose policy towards England has ever been dictated by a spirit of conciliation ; but that he should seek for a point d'appui at a Court which invokes divine right as its political aegis appears utterly incredible. The pumpkin, which, as you know, is very much cultivated in France for soup, had its annual f^te the other day. It has been for several years the custom of the Agricultural Society of Paris to offer a prize to the gardeners of the suburbs for the largest pumpkin they can send to the Halles Centrales. Its coronation takes place, and a procession in its honour. This year the king of potirons weighed 276 lbs., and his waist measured more than three yards in circumference. His majesty cost 108 f, or £\ 6s. Another phenomenon of the botanical world is a mushroom twelve inches in diameter and thirty-two in circumference, which was found in the woods at Viroflay, belonging to the Due de Morny. It is a real fact — and not a newspaper story — that five amateurs of these fungi dined off this marvellous mushroom. 30 THE FRANCO-ITALIAN I September 2\st. The Moniteur of this morning is mute on the all-absorbing topic of the day. The Constitutionnel alludes to it in guarded terms. However, La Patrie, which, notwithstanding its professions of independence, I have good reason to know receives its instructions from high quarters, announces the Franco- Italian Convention as the great event which occupies public attention. The Opinion Nationale writes on no other subject, yet in every instance the details are quoted from Italian papers. The Opinione of Turin states that on the 1 5th the Convention was signed at St. Cloud by M. Drouyn de Lhuys, M. Nigra, and the Marquis Pepoli, who started instantly for Turin, where he arrived at midnight. The King summoned a Privy Council, when it was decided that Parlia- ment should meet on the 4th of October. The first clause of the Convention stipulates the evacuation of Rome by French troops within two years ; the second, that Rome be garrisoned and the Pontifical territory defended by Italian troops, and that the Pope may enlist foreigners in his service on con- dition that their number does not endanger the safety of the Italian kingdom ; the third, non-intervention of all Catholic Powers ; the fourth, that Italy be responsible for that portion of the Pontifical public debt which has been incurred by the provinces annexed to her territory in the late war ; fifth, that Florence be within six months the capital of Italy. This last stipulation has, of course, excited much regret at Turin. L'ltalie hints at a secret clause wherein France undertakes to supply troops to Italy in case of an Austrian invasion. As the Opinion Nationale exclaims, it is not Roma capitate dltalia, but it is a good step towards it. At the end of fifteen years of useless attempts at conciliation France leaves the Pope tite-ci-tete with his people. Two years are given him, however, and the Opinion is glad of it, as otherwise the ultramontane party would accuse France of mauvais valoir ; but, as is justly remarked, if Pius IX. does not use the next CONVENTION 31 two years to more profit than he has the last fifteen, it is mere waste of time. After all, France was by no means compelled to protect a Government which has invariably thrown overboard every advice it has given. Italy compro- mises nothing, and gives up nothing. She merely under- takes neither to disturb nor permit to be disturbed the terri- tories which, thanks to the French bayonets, are still under Papal sway ; and in the matter of foreign enlistment dis- tinctly stipulates that on no pretence, or under no disguise, are foreign troops to garrison Rome ; otherwise the French evacuation would be a mere farce ; and, be it remarked, that in case the maintenance of temporal power is, after a fair trial, acknowledged to be an impossibility, Italy does not undertake to decline any inheritance to which she may be called by the voice of the people. September 22nd. A despatch from Schwabach announces that the Emperor of Russia was expected to arrive there yesterday on his way to Berlin. He will, of course, visit the Empress Eugenie, whose return to Paris is daily expected. The cause of her quitting France so suddenly is now pretty clear. She, a fervent Catholic, to say nothing more, could not of course sanction by her presence at St. Cloud, a Convention which will deprive the Holy Father of the French sentinels who for so many years have mounted guard at the Vatican. The opening of the Yacht Club at Cannes is the great event of the day in the nautical world. Three years ago Lord Brougham and half a dozen English families were monarchs of all they surveyed in that very lovely spot. The French hatred for travelling is proverbial. When health did compel a family to quit its beloved Paris, Naples, Florence, or Nice were the only places thought of. However, the opening of a railroad between Toulon and Cannes has suggested the idea that within twenty hours of Paris a climate in which even tropical plants blow in the open air, combined 32 THE YACHT CLUB, CANNES with charming scenery, can be attained with very little fatigue. Several names of distinction in the Paris world are inscribed in the visitors' book, among them Mdme. du Chaponay, M6rimee, the novelist, and Victor Cousin. It is reported that the latter is to be one of the new Senators. The rage of La Gazette de France is really amusing at the mere supposition that the old philosopher and historian could be seduced even to be useful to his country under a tricolour flag. The Emperor has rechristened one of the streets leading to the H6tel de Cluny " Rue Victor Cousin." But to return to Cannes. On the first of October a magnificent hotel, which has cost ;^70,ooo, is to be opened, and next to this palace the members of the Yacht Club have built their club-house. This has been done by subscription, the inhabit- ants of Cannes having put their names down for £?>,ooo. The situation has been admirably selected. The view from the windows is a perfect oceanorama. The members have got up their club-house with perfect taste, and have secured the services of a first-rate chef. The forty members who started the idea are to have their inaugural dinner on the 1st October. Baron Rothschild has sent two magnificent female Wapiti, born at La Ferrieres, to the Jardin d'Acclimatation, on their way to the King of Italy. The garden is a sort of grand hotel for travelling beasts, which, having landed at Marseilles, are delighted to find capital beds and excellent food — I can hardly write cuisine — at the jardin, on their way to the various Zoological Gardens in Europe. It is extensively used for this purpose, which was an idea of M. Geoffroy de St. Hilaire, the grandson of the great naturalist, and who is now the directeur en chef. Victor Emmanuel is one of the most successful acclimatisers of the day. His ambition is to introduce the larger species of game into Italy ; he has already every known variety of the deer and the nucleus of a herd of kangaroos. Prince Napoleon is gradually turning his park at Meudon into a miniature _;«r^?« d'acclimatation, and takes great interest in the subject. LA GRIPPE 33 September 2ird. At last, after having kept us for six days in suspense, Government condescends to allow the Moniteur, in its own special columns, not, indeed, to announce the Franco-Italian Convention, but to quote from the Constitutionnel the few guarded observations it has permitted that paper to com- municate to its readers. Therefore, even now, the well- ascertained news is not officially stated. The passage quoted merely gives the first of the three clauses of the treaty, namely, the evacuation of Rome within two years, the permission granted to the Pope to enlist for his personal security foreign Catholic volunteers, and the clause by which Italy is made responsible for the debt incurred by the newly annexed States, which had belonged to the Pope. The next three columns of the Moniteur contain, in large type, a letter written by the Emperor in May, 1862, to M. Thouvenel on the state of Italian affairs, evidently now reproduced to prove that the present Convention was not a Napoleonic coup d'itat, but the result of a preconceived plan. This is all the Government thinks good for us to-day; perhaps to- morrow we may be told a little more. Verily the care taken lest our nerves should be injured by too sudden a shock is really touching. For the last two days it has hardly ceased raining ; the result is that Paris coughs and sneezes from morning to night — anything but pleasant to witness or listen to ; for when a Frenchman has a grippe he sneezes and coughs in good earnest, and sets to work as if he were paid to do so. If you enter an omnibus, walk on the boulevards, or go into a cafe you are now so much bored and persecuted by the Dieu vous benisse, which invariably accompanies each convul- sive sneeze, as one was a few weeks ago by that most senseless and stupid exclamation, " H6, Lambert ! " I could not gather any political news to-day in consequence of this epidemic. The friends from whom I generally get information I found either 34 CRINOLINES AT MASS in bed or taking foot-baths a lafarine de inoutarde — a capital remedy, by-the-by, and one which is particularly adapted to this hot-headed people, inasmuch as by drawing the blood to the feet it instantly relieves the brain. It would be well if the ultramontane and clerical party had speedy recourse to this calming process, for they are at present in a state of rage, the alarming symptoms of which are not far removed from delirium tremens. They can by no means digest the political pill which the Emperor has thought fit to administer to Italy. The very idea that French bayonets will no longer be employed to keep up the temporal as well as spiritual power of his Holiness is driving them mad. An ecclesiastical commission sat this week to decide on the increased tariff for the chairs hired to ladies in the churches and chapels of Paris, it having been proved to demonstration that in a space which ten years ago accommo- dated a hundred persons, but thirty-seven can now find sitting room. Naturally an enormous deficit in the church revenue has been the result. The conclusion of the board of inquiry has been that as one crinoline takes the place of three individuals, the rent of chairs ought to be raised in proportion. In a church of Alsace it has been already decreed that wearers of crinolines should pay i f for low mass and i^ f for high mass. September 2^th. At the Bourse yesterday I heard nothing spoken of but the Franco-Italian treaty. In a financial point of view the prevailing opinion decidedly is that the Convention will be so far favourable to Italy as to allow a loan to be contracted for on very favourable terms ; but en revanche it will in no wise facilitate the Pope's acquisition of the one hundred million francs he is in so much need of just now. Florence, I am told, is already in the hands of speculators, who are rapidly purchasing as much ground as they can get hold of, knowing that as the city is to be the capital of Italy, they will make SCANTY COSTUME 35 fabulous sums, and in a very short time. It is even whispered that certain intimes of the Tuileries, who were fortunate enough to have had an inkHng of what was in contemplation some weeks before the news of the Convention reached us from Italy, went themselves to Florence ; or in cases where that was not possible sent trustworthy agents, who purchased large tracts of land, with a view of selling them at an enormous profit as soon as the Court takes up its residence in the fair City of Flowers. Last Friday afternoon the frequenters of the Tuileries Gardens were startled by the apparition of three fair ladies in costumes of the First Empire, evidently meant to typify the drapeau tricolore, one being in red, the second in blue, and the third in white. There was an utter absence of crinoline, and belts were the only articles above the waist. Certainly ceintures are now worn very wide, and the afternoon was warm. Still the gardiens did not appear to appreciate these toilettes, and they were speedily invited, as the French say, to retire, and with the honours of war. The scene re- called to mind the well-known story of the beautiful Madame Tallien (Prince de Chimay's widow), who in the time of the Directory appeared in the gardens of the Palais Royal in a somewhat similar costume, and early the following morning received a magnificent box, to which a gold key was attached. It contained one solitary vine leaf It is not so very long since the Archbishop of Paris, having the private entrie to a concert given by an illustrious personage, entered by a doot behind a crowd of ladies. In their efforts to make way for him, one said in an apologetic tone, " Your Grace must excuse us ; really our dressmakers put so much material in our skirts " " That none remains for the corsage," interrupted the Archbishop. I mentioned to you some weeks ago that the Mexican ladies replaced diamonds in their coiffures and on their ball dresses by the luminous cucujo, captured by Indians for their special adornment. The Presse of this morning gives a most interesting account of these jewelled insects, six of which 36 INSECTES-BIJOUX arrived by the last Mexican steamer, and were consigned to the eminent naturalist, M. Pasteur. At the last meeting of the Academy of Sciences experiments were made as to the light emitted, and an analysis made of its quality. As I stated, it is proved to be sufficiently strong to admit of reading by the light of one cucujo, which, although of the nature of that of the glow-worm, exceeds it in intensity and steadiness, casts no shadow, and has a slightly yellow tinge. Serious efforts are to be made to acclimatise and propagate these insectes-bijoux, which, however expensive a process, would be economy itself to the husbands of the queens of fashion, whose incomes are so seriously encroached upon and often utterly ruined by the sums lavished upon a Paris season. One of the heaviest expenses in which caprice involves them is the resetting of jewels, which the number of bals costumis given during the winter makes a matter of necessity. One instance last season came under my own knowledge of a parure of diamonds having been remounted thirteen times. The amount of the bill I leave you to guess ; but indeed jewellers' bills are not the only heavy item in the household ledger, as Madame Rattazzi, nie Bonaparte Wyse, and widow of the Prince de Solms, wore a muslin dress at Dieppe last week, the laundress's bill for the washing of which amounted to 250 f. {£\o\ A novelty has just been started for the amusement of that section of the curious who delight in sensational horrors — a visit to the Morgue, for instance. The new excitement is a Monsieur Christophe Deland, who departed this life A.D. 1 72 1, and who, having been buried between strata of guano, is now — A.D. 1864 — not only in a state of perfect preservation, but rather good-looking to boot, giving one the impression that he probably made conquests in his day. He may be seen any day, from twelve to four, in his glass coffin, at the shop of his fortunate proprietors, opposite the Porte St. Denis, for the moderate sum of 50 centimes. SOLDIER-GARDENERS 37 September 2'jth. The spot has been decided upon for the erection of the Hotel Dieu, and voted for unanimously. No less than nine of the most ancient and narrowest streets in Paris will be knocked down, to the regret of no one, as even M. Cuvillier- Fleury could produce no historic association which their destruction will efface, save that at the corner of the Rue des deux Ermites stood the shops of the barber and pastry- cook who sold the far-famed pdtes, so renowned for the peculiar delicacy of their flavour, which were discovered to be made of human flesh, the barber naturally supplying fresh corpses. This being ascertained, the worthy associates were broken on the wheel, their houses knocked down, and an edict passed forbidding any persons building on the spot, which decree was reversed in 1536 by Francis I. You are aware that privates in the French army are each in turn taught and obliged to work at every trade necessary for the clothing and feeding of the regiment. For instance, every man takes it in turn to cook ; and if the soup be not properly seasoned or the vegetables sufficiently boiled, woe to the unlucky cooks on duty ! Now a novel experiment has proved most successful at the camp at Chalons, where the privates were made to turn gardeners, the practical result to each regiment being 40,000 cabbages, with potatoes, carrots, turnips, and parsnips in proportion. It has been decided that kitchen gardens are to be attached to every barrack, the work of which is to be done by the regiment, an immense saving being thus effected for the State, and much of the men's time employed which would otherwise be spent in public-houses or other mischief. September 2gth. Garibaldi has written one of his charming and characteristic letters to the author of La Grande Epopee de Van II., in which the great man defines that period (1793-4) as "the grand 38 FRENCHMEN AND LIBERTY epoch of heroism and virtue," which for him has — I quote the hero's words — " un attrait invincible^ Admiral van Dackum's order at Copenhagen to the Danish squadron has excited as much hilarity in France as in its native land. The Admiral liberally grants leave of absence to the men of the fleet on condition that but one goes ashore per day, by which economical arrangement the last sailor will spend a day on land in the year A.D. 1 868. October ^ik. I have noticed that several of the newspapers, com- menting upon M. de Persigny's last speech, have said that the noble duke was right in stating that the French did not deserve more liberty than is now granted to them. Though I am myself a fervent apostle of liberty, still I cannot help partly agreeing in this statement. No one is less desirous than I am to speak ill of France, or sneer at everything French ; still I do believe this country is governed pretty much as it deserves to be. A Frenchman is not fit to be trusted with liberty, a strong proof of which was given in '48, when, during the first few months, after the flight of Louis Philippe, the nation took advantage of the perfect freedom it possessed to commit every kind of excess. The fact is that when Louis Napoleon seized the reins the country was on the verge of ruin. A Frenchman is, more or less, born to be rode roughshod over, and he himself is positively happier when ruled with a rod of iron. Of course, I am not alluding to the poor and down-trodden who, cursing the inequality of human condition, now and then break out in occasional riots and are shot down by canons rayes. I refer to the middle and upper classes, who are the deadliest enemies of Re- publican principles, and especially the nouveau enrichi or parvenu class, who in France are more ostentatious and self- important than any aristocracy in Europe. The prominent features in a Frenchman's character are pride and vanity, and these are the only points on which you can speak. The OFFICIAL TYRANNY 39 First Emperor understood this perfectly when he instituted the "Ldgion d'Honneur" and decreed that for any service rendered to Government a Frenchman v/ould be rewarded by the i-uban rouge ; and by this same ribbon the nation has been enslaved. There is not a man in France, no matter what his station, who will not sneak and cringe to any party to obtain the right to adorn his buttonhole with it. It was a clever idea of the First Empire, inasmuch as every Govern- ment since its creation has obtained immense gratuitous services therewith. But to return to my subject — liberty. I maintain that a Frenchman likes to feel that everything around him is so organised that he has not the trouble of thinking for himself Twelve hours after he is born on this soil of liberty he is taken to the Mairie, and there ticketed, as it were, through life. The paternal government watches over his education, and, at twenty-one, unless he buys a man to replace him, incorporates him into some regiment, and takes care that while there his ideas do not become too inde- pendent. If he proves a good and obedient boy, he will be rewarded by the " Croix." Ruled by despotism, the French become despots in their .turn. Witness the tyranny of your landlord on every possible occasion, the wearisome forms railway officials compel you to submit to ; and this spirit pervades every French administration, private as well as public. An amusing illustration of this was mentioned to me lately. M. Bagier, the manager of the Italian Opera, whenever he engages an actor or actress, makes them sign an agreement in which there is the following clause : — " A. B. undertakes to live within fifteen minutes of the theatre." Mario, the celebrated tenor, having been requested to sign this, telegraphed to the manager the following inquiry : — " What do you mean ? Am I to understand fifteen minutes' walk, ride, drive, or railway?" M. Bagier's reply was, " Balloon travelling ! " 40 A HUSBAND-BEATER December Z2nd. The report of an attempt on the life of King Victor Emmanuel has caused an immense amount of gossip. The first details of the affair were given by the special cor- respondent of L' Europe, who stated that the King had received a wound in the shoulder. The truth, however, is that his Majesty did receive a wound, not however in the shoulder, but a little lower down in the arm, and not from the dagger of an assassin but from the lancet of his surgeon in ordinary. He is not quite well, and was bled. Voildi, tout ! December z^th. A case of separation is to occupy the forensic talent of Lyons, arising from a most original cause. A husband of colossal strength complains of having been beaten by his wife. It appears that for several months the neighbours of this ill-assorted pair have been disturbed by the cries and moans of the wife, caused by the blows inflicted from the herculean arm of her lord and master. The lady vowed vengeance in words not loud, but strong ; and thus she fulfilled her purpose : the husband returned one evening unusually weary, from hunting, dined and drank copiously, immediately retiring to his bed, when he was soon in the arms of Morpheus — dreaming, perhaps, but not of the long packing- needle and strong twine which, by the fair hands of his wife, were fast enclosing him, a helpless mass, in his sheets. This preliminary measure taken, the lady, armed with a powerful stick, returned with interest the accumulated blows of past years, till, exhausted by the exertion, she was compelled to pause. After an instant's rest she made a deep curtsey to her belaboured husband, and announced to him her intention of eloping to her parents' residence. In one of my late rambles in the neighbourhood of Paris I was much struck by some labourers who were hard at work digging up a large tract of ground, and mixing up cartloads ST. HUBERT'S DAY 41 of tattered cloth with the earth. Having inquired as to the utility of such a proceeding, I was told that rags possess great fertilising powers, and that they are now very gener- ally adopted as manure, especially to counteract the bad effects of the siliceous soil. The quantity necessary to enrich four acres of ground amounts to about 3,000 kilogrammes, which is equivalent to 45,000 kilogrammes of stable manure, ajid costs only 180 f The results produced by this mixture of old rags and earth are slow, but lasting ; their beneficial effect can be traced six years after they have been put into the ground. The more torn and the more their texture is worn away, the more are they suited for manuring purposes. December 26ik. On St. Hubert's Day Comte de la Ferriere, Master of the Hounds, opened the season by a grand mass at four o'clock in the morning, in the ancient church, which was brilliantly illuminated for the peculiar occasion. Twenty whippers-in and his whole hunting establishment, wearing the livery of his house, were arranged down the nave. At the elevation of the Host the men sounded their horns. The church even at that early hour was crowded by people attracted to witness this curious revival of an ancient custom. The scientific world of Paris is much occupied by the experiment which M. Graof intends making of flying from the towers of Notre Dame by his new machine. He under- takes to remain suspended in the air with as much ease as a bird. I only hope he may not have borrowed the wings of a canard. December 2Zth. The cold is fearful and the Seine is partly frozen over — a hint the rats have taken to inhabit the sewers of the metropolis, where the temperature is always eight or ten degrees above zero. At ten o'clock this morning the sewer- 42 GOLD BUTTONS men of the Boulevard Sebastopol, who had entered by the opening near the Church of Saint Laurent, hunted before them a whole army of rats, who rushed by hundreds out of the gate of the sewer which issues on the Seine in front of the Theatre du Chdtelet. There was nothing for them but to swim for the sheets of ice floating past, and the effect of swarms of rats of every imaginable size thus navigating on the Seine was inexpressibly absurd. The flotilla arrived safely at the Pont Neuf, but the ice-blocks coming in contact with the piers of the bridge caused numerous shipwrecks. However, a considerable number went on all right till they came to the Pont des Arts, and some of the lucky adven- turers even reached the Pont Royal. A crowd assembled to watch their progress, and seemed infinitely amused by the sight. December lOth. You are aware that the general character given to the English in Paris society is that of humour or eccentricity. These characteristics were undoubtedly exemplified by the appearance of a soi-disant English gentleman (?) at a ball last week, whose dress-coat was adorned by buttons of a novel kind, manufactured by no less a personage than France herself, issuing from a workshop on the quays , called the Mint. These buttons were 20 f. pieces. The price of the coat I leave you to guess. The idea, however, is not as absurd as it might seem; for instance, if a button be missing, you have only to open your purse to replace it, and if you have forgotten your purse, as is the habit of some people, you have but to snatch off a button and pay for your wants, by which means your coat serves to pay your debts and your purse to adorn your coat. Then if this fashion of wearing coins for buttons takes, a glance will enable one to judge of a man's position. Coppers would indicate a workman, a franc button a lawyer or clerk, the broad 5 f. piece a retired butcher or grocer, and so BONBONS AND NEWSPAPERS 43 on. Bonbons and their boxes are the events of the week. A crowd collects daily opposite the shop of a celebrated and very amusing vaudevilliste, who unfortunately failed in changing his pieces into gold, and turned sugar-baker in despair. One window is occupied by a gigantic box of sky-blue velvet, extensively got up with roses and point d'Alen^on, the price of which is 1,500 f (;^6o), while in the opposite window stand Monsieur et Madame Polichinelle, whose glittering persons can be acquired for the moderate sum of 2,500 f (;£"ioo), their humps, as I was instructed, being filled by bonbons. I had gazed with wonder at a huge white velvet case embroidered in pearls, but I confess its beauty paled before these gorgeous sugar-boxes. January 2nd, 1865. The Vienna papers publish the will of a half-pay Austrian officer, which has created considerable amusement. He leaves his fortune to his nephew, who has a situation in the Post Office, on condition that he shall never on any occasion indulge in his favourite occupation of reading newspapers. The old gentleman institutes three persons his trustees, whose duty it will be to watch his luckless heir, and, in case of a single infringement of the clause, dispose of his property to other members of his family. The said property consists of two houses, money in the funds, and a landed estate. January 6th. A few years ago a vast tract of country, called " Les Landes," situate to the south-west of Bordeaux, and extend- ing to about twenty leagues in length and twelve in breadth along the Bay of Biscay, was inhabited by a few miserable shepherds, whose families lived in a state of semi-barbarism, and who were annually decimated by marsh fever and ague. The whole of this desolate region, parched in summer and submerged in winter, was valued in 1846 at 900,000 f., the precise sum for which a single hectare of ground at 44 THE LANDES Montmartre may be purchased. To M. Chambrelent it first occurred that it would be possible to transform this vast waste into a habitable country at the cost of one sou per square yard, or 20 f per hectare. In 1849 he purchased the bog of Saint Alban, and commenced operations, the result of which is that a thriving farm and village have replaced a swampy marsh, a hectare of potatoes producing 145 hectolitres, or a net profit of 435 f. ; a hectare of tobacco giving a gross return of 1,045 f- and a net profit of 330 f, or six times the value of the soil. The purchase money of the estate was 30,000 f. ; 100,000 f. has been laid out on it, and in twenty years its woods alone will bring up the value to one million. M, Chambrelent in vain urged his neighbours to follow his system, when in 1857 ^^ Imperial decree took the municipal councillors of the district by surprise, giving them twelve years wherein to drain and sow ^ 1 50,000 hectares. There was nothing for it but to sell, and that quickly. At first purchasers came in slowly, but prices rose, and 85,000 hectares were bought by the Imperial Government, which accepted a contract by which this tract was to be thoroughly drained and cultivated by 1869: now, it will be completed by 1865. The result already obtained in one part of the country, where asparagus has been especially cultivated, is that the first bundle sent up to the Paris market last spring fetched the enormous sum of 30 f. This is scarcely to be credited of a country, where, five years ago, the inhabitants stalked about on stilts four or five feet high. The result is that 3,000 square kilometres — a space six times the extent of the department of the Seine — has been re- claimed, and 150 square kilometres annexed to the French territory without a shot fired or a protocol signed. Thus the Landes, from having been a mere waste of shallow pools, sodden morasses, and glaring heaps of sand, now bids fair to be one of the most productive districts of France. THE COMTE5SE DE CI\ RY 45 January Zth. Another trial which has aheady come before the courts is shortly to amuse the public. The Comtesse de Civry claims from her father. His Serene Highness Charles, Duke of Brunswick, a pension of 30,000 francs a year in consideration of her husband having lost his hereditary property during the revolution of 1848, and of her finding it impossible, with seven children, to live on air. The Duke's mania for wigs of various hues is weU known, as well as the precautions he took to secure the safety of his diamonds in his strawberry-cream-tinted palace. Rue Balzac Every spike of the gilt railing which siuTOunded it was movable, on the slightest touch setting hundreds of bells in motion. The diamonds were encased in a chest under his own bed, on opening which, unless provided with His Serene Highness's own key, a dozen revolvers fired in the intruder's face. Notwithstanding these prudential measures, his own footman, a man named Smith, quietly walked off one summer's evening of last year with some few millions' worth of the said diamonds. These accumulated trials, in every sense of the word, induced the Duke to quit his rose-coloured palace, and transport himself, his diamonds (for it will be remembered that Smith was captured), his wigs, and walking-sticks to Holland, and this will considerably retard the proceedings in the case of his daughter, the " Comtesse de Civry versus Charles of Brunswick." The Opinion Nationale has a very clever feuilleton from the witty pen of Edmond About on the subject of la culture des eaux. M. Abouf s idea is that nothing could contribute so much to the comfort of the poorer class than the proper working of the rich mine of food which the ocean contains. Amongst the striking facts which M. About brings forward to prove the superiority of fish versus flesh, in point of economy and nutrition qualities, he makes the following calculations as to what a tureen of soup, or, as the French term it, a pot-au-feu, has cost. The animal from which the 46 LA CULTURE DES EAUX meat has been taken, admitting that he weighed 400 kilos., must have consumed 60,000 kilos, of grass during his life. When killed he yields 300 kilos, of meat, the hundredth part of which is required to make the above-mentioned pot-au-feu. Substitute for this piece of beef a young salmon of 3 kilos., of two years and a half old — he was born in a stream, he spent eighteen months in a river, he swam to the sea, and in twelve months made his 3 kilos., or 7 lbs. weight of good food. To convey an idea of the marvellous fecundity with which the inhabitants of the ocean are gifted, M. E. About states that one herring lays 35,000 eggs, a mackerel 845,000, a sturgeon 7,500,000, a turbot 9,000,000, a cod 9,344,000. Then, adds M. About, suppose the 845,000 mackerel eggs all became fish, and the 422,000 spawners produce an equal number, you will have 360 billions of fish — that is sufficient to support all His Holiness's faithful children in the French Empire during the whole of Lent ; but, setting Lent aside, M. About trium- phantly points to the hardy and healthy populations of the coast, whose numerous families are a strong contrast to the pale and sickly population of the Faubourgs. January gtk. La Patrie of this morning contains very curious details of nursery gardens at Epluchard, near Angers, belonging to M. Andrd L6ray, whose Gothic house was the ancient maison de plaisance of old King Ren6, father of our Henry VI.'s Queen Margaret. The gardens contain six hundred varieties of ever- greens, four hundred of coniferous trees, a most remarkable collection of Sophora willows, and every imaginable novelty in the way of forest trees and new kinds of underwood ; but the most signal triumph won by this monster cultivator is the acclimatisation of the camellia, specimens of which tree cover one hectare of land, and in many instances have attained the height of six yards, or rather metres — their magnificent con- dition and glorious flowers proving a perfection rarely attained in conservatories. Some of these camellia trees have outlived thirty winters, and endured twenty degrees centigrades of cold. X. B. SAINTINE 47 January 2ird. Proudhon's death has been quickly followed by that of X. B. Saintine, who died last Saturday. His funeral took place this morning from his house, Rue des Marais, at the Church of Saint Martin ; and all the literary celebrities of the day attended. Saintine was born in Paris, 1 798 ; he was Honorary President of the Soci^t^ des Gens de Lettres, and last August was given the cross of Officer of the Legion d'Honneur. To the world he was best known as author of Picciola, which has been translated into almost every European language ; but in Paris his name is imperish- ably connected with the stage by his L'Ours et le Pacha and the Riche d' Amour. He was fellow- labourer with Scribe, Amelot, Varin, and Duvert in all their best works. Picciola won for him renown and the ribbon of the L6gion d'Honneur as early as 1837. Saintine was one of the few romance writers of France who, scrupulously avoiding an immoral allusion or a sensational effect, won a world-wide reputation as one of the most fascinating writers of the day. There is an exquisite purity of diction and a chaste tone of thought throughout his most poetic conceptions. A most strange incident, which took place at the moment when Proudhon's funeral was about to leave his humble residence for the cemetery, well-nigh caused a popular de- monstration. He died, as you are aware, true to the principles he had so energetically advocated, declined the attendance of a priest, and on being asked to confess to the cur6 of the parish, turning to his wife, said, " I shall confess to you." Thousands of the working classes, as well as immense numbers of his admirers, had assembled in the narrow street Rue de Passy, and were about to follow his bier, when the 92nd Regiment, with its Colonel at its head, and the drums beating a quick march, suddenly turned into the street. The crowd shouted, " Silence ! Respect the dead ! " The regiment came to a dead stop. The crowd 48 SLUGS AND SNAILS shouted, " Battez aux champs ! " calling for the peculiar roll of the drums always executed at military funerals. The drummers obeyed. The Colonel then interfered, some of the friends of the family came forward, and some inaudible con- versation took place. The Colonel gave the word to proceed, saluting the coffin with his sword. The mob, satisiied with this extorted homage, shouted, " Vive la Ligne ! " A second regiment, the First Grenadiers, followed, but, warned in time of the temper of the crowd, they marched past, their drums having ceased beating. The strange part of this history is that a letter has appeared from Lieutenant - Colonel Pietri denying the whole transaction — refuting the affair as if it were a disgrace to the Service. Two letters have already been published in the Opinion Nationale from people present, who assert the facts above stated, adding their amazement that Colonel Pietri should venture to deny a transaction witnessed by so many thousands. Horticulturists make fierce complaints of the ravages committed this year by slugs and snails, the destruction of which has become a serious subject of consideration. It is calculated that loo slugs eat 2.\ lbs. of grass per day ; there- fore 5,000 consume the food of a cow, and as they chiefly select the youngest shoots after sowing time, they are more mischievous. General Higouet has established on his farm a systematic war against these invaders by means of an iron cutting instrument attached to a stick, with which he arms his farm-servants, and sends them forth immediately after the harvest has been reaped. A single man has destroyed 4,000 in one day ; thus on the farm of Veyrac 100,000 are killed annually. From August to October these 100,000 would have devoured 2,000 lbs. weight of grass daily, which is equivalent to 250 kilos, of hay, the value of which is I2f. 50 c. Multiplying this by ninety days, the result gives 20,250 kilos, of hay (value 1,125 f., or ;^45), which would have been de- stroyed had not the war been waged, whereas the pay of the labourers employed in eradicating this plague of slugs and snails only amounted to 50 f , or £2. A CURE FOR NERVES 49 The unpublished works of Proudhon are in course of revision with a view to their being published. It appears that at the period when Proudhon was a typographic printer he was employed in the editing of a very beautiful copy of the Bible. He kept one copy for himself, which he had bound with two blank leaves between each page. This Bible he read daily, writing his reflections on the intervening leaves, and their number proved how constantly he made the Scriptures his study. Le Bulletin de Paris states that the Minister of Public Instruction (M. Duruy) has, in obedience to the Emperor's commands, notiiied to Madame Proudhon that an annuity will be paid to her from the Civil List. It is certain that the family are left with very small means of living. A new system of cure for nervous sufifering has been the subject of conversation for some weeks past, but the first experiment triumphantly cited in proof of its success having been the cure of a frightful attack of neuralgia in the head, by means of a copper saucepan worn helmet-wise, I declined mentioning the subject. However, a serious article appears to-day, which I cannot leave unnoticed, reminding the world in general of the theory started by Paracelsus that every organ of the human frame has a certain afifinity for a special metal or vegetable. The Zurich doctor argued thence that as the heart is known to be influenced by the sun, and as gold is the symbol of the sun, therefore most diseases can be cured by certain solutions of that metal ; that as the liver is influenced by the planet Saturn, of which Mercury is the symbol, liver disease could be cured by preparations of mer- cury, and so on. Doctor Burcq, starting from totally opposite premises, has, however, invented a system of metallotherapia, which engages the serious attention of the scientific world at the present moment. The writer of the article states that he was present last Monday at the following experiment. A person had been for two days suffering intense agony from intercostal pain, which had all the characteristics of neuralgia. Doctor Burcq was sent for. He applied an iron disc to the so STRAUSS AND ROSSINI part affected, with no result. He wished to try the influence of copper. A brass candlestick being near at hand, he applied it, on which the pain instantly vanished. January 26th. I have been told — but I cannot vouch for the authenticity of the fact — that Colonel Pietri, whose most singular conduct at the funeral of Proudhon I informed you of, has been put under arrest for a fortnight. The adventure of Colonel Pietri reminds one of the story of another French officer, who, happening to pass one day at the head of his regiment before the Clos-Vougeot's celebrated vineyards, ordered his soldiers to stop and carry arms, thereby rendering military honours to the best of wines. January 2'jth. A new element of success is to attract the habituis of the balls in the Opera House to the next fete. Strauss, the well- known musical composer (not the apostle of Rationalism), has decided that Rossini's fanfare shall be introduced into a hunting quadrille, which he has composed for the occasion, to accomplish which he applied to all the masters of hounds residing in or near Paris for permission to employ their huntsmen to sound their horns at the right moment in the said quadrille. Permission granted, the next thing to do was to have a rehearsal. The place of meeting was naturally a wineshop, and the one selected was one well known in the Rue St. Honor6, near the Halles, the hour fixed being ten o'clock at night. Strauss was punctnal, gave his name to the dame du comptoir, who received him with the utmost politeness, and handed him a small wax taper, requesting him to descend a ladder, at the bottom of which he would find a staircase, then a trap-door, on opening which another ladder would bring him to the desired place of meeting. By no means liking this subterranean excursion, the great man, however, was ashamed to show the white feather, and. LE NOTRE'S ARMS 51 dimly lighted by the flicker of the rat de cave, which only made the darkness the more visible, he obeyed, and, greatly to his own astonishment, at the third floor underground found himself in a vast hall, where a jolly party of huntsmen received him by a blast that would have aroused the Seven Sleepers. The mystery is explained by the fact that M. le Pr^fet de Police has issued a decree forbidding horns to be sounded in Paris. The Rue St. Honor6 is almost impassable opposite the Church of St. Roch in consequence of the reparations of the old portico now going on. It was built in 1738. Corneille, Maupertuis, Mignard, and Le Notre, the designer of the Gardens of Versailles, the Tuileries, etc., are all buried within its walls. In 1675 the Grand Monarque, in acknowledgment of Le Notre'S genius and his great services, granted him letters patent of nobility, to which the King wished to add a coat-of-arms. " Sire," said the artist, " my family arms are three snails charged on a head of cabbage. I shall quarter a spade on my shield, if your Majesty will permit me to do so, as I owe to that instrument all the marks of royal favour with which I am overwhelmed." February 2nd. A new mode of robbery is recorded in this morning's papers as having taken place at one of the last performances of Linda di Chamouni at the Italian Opera, and the ingenuity as well as originality with which it has been carried out strikes one as worthy of Cartouche himself. Her Majesty was present on the night in question. A box within three or four of the one occupied by the Empress attracted the attention of the house, from the peculiar magnificence of the costume worn by a foreign lady, who, accompanied by her husband, had entered it at the commencement of the first act. The lady's dress bespoke an Eastern origin, but the peculiar form and exquisite workmanship of her diamond earrings excited great admiration. Her husband quitted her for a few moments 52 A PAIR OF EARRINGS between one of the acts. A low knock at the door of the box attracted the lady's notice. A most gentlemanlike person presented himself, bearing a message from Her Majesty, expressive of her great admiration of the earrings worn by the lady, and her extreme curiosity to be allowed to look at one for a few seconds. The lady, somewhat astonished, complied instantly with the soi-disant equerry's request, and a few seconds afterwards, on her husband's return, related the circumstances. To him the story seemed improbable, and on inquiry from one of Her Majesty's suite he ascertained it to be the device of a robber — but too late. The next morning the husband started early to give all the details to the Prefect of Police, when, about half an hour after he had left his hotel, a person from the Prefecture asked to see the lady, and, producing a letter from M. le Pr6fet, explained the necessity of at once depositing the remaining earring in the hands of the police, in order to facilitate the search for the one abstracted on the previous night. The lady acceded to the demand of the detective with less hesitation than to the polite request of the equerry, and Cartouche's rival possessed a pair of rare diamond pendeloques instead of one — a close-fitting dark dress, tightly buttoned to the throat, and a huge beard having trans- formed the quondam equerry, got up in an evening dress of faultless perfection, into an active police agent. February $tk. Invitations have been issued for a grand soir/e at Rossini's house for Friday, the loth instant. The great maestro has allowed the secret of a new opera to transpire, of which, it is said in the musical world, he intends to allow, his friends to judge on the evening in question. Rossini said the other day to Marmontel, professor of instrumental music at the Conser- vatoire, " I am told that my compositions for the piano are difficult to execute from defective fingering. This is more than probable ; I am but a fourth-rate performer, and ought to apply for admittance to the cours at the Conservatoire to EUGENE DELACROIX 53 improve myself," at which joke Marmontel laughed. To his surprise, next morning Rossini made his appearance at the Conservatoire, and asked for a ticket for M. Marmontel's cours. M. Auber, before handing it to him, wrote on it, " Regular attendance will not be required from this pupil." The following anecdote of Count' Pourtal^s, whose gallery occupies so much attention at this moment, gives one a charming idea of the man himself, therefore I repeat it. The Count's attention was attracted to the works of a young artist, exhibited for the first time at the Salon ; the name was then unknown, and it was with some difficulty the Count procured his address. He wrote to request the young aspirant to bring one of the pictures exhibited to his house, which request was at once acceded to. " I should like to add your picture to my collection, sir," said the Count. " May I venture to inquire its price ? " " Two thousand francs," replied the young man, debating within himself whether he had not ventured on too large a sum. " Ten thousand francs ! " replied the great man, feigning temporary deafness. " Very well, then, consider the transaction as settled." The artist, unwilling to benefit by a mistake, at once explained the error he fancied the Count had committed. " Pardon," interrupted M. de Pourtal^s, " je ne marchande jamais." The young artist died lately in the zenith of his world-wide reputation, and at the coming sale two of his pictures will be competed for by more than one crowned head. February Zth. Yesterday a party of Eugene Delacroix' friends met at M. F. Villot's house to see his great work, " The Assassina- tion of the Bishop of Li^ge," lit up by a reflector precisely as Delacroix himself had directed. The evening previous to the sale, which is to take place next Friday, it will be ex- hibited thus lighted. The catalogue contains the following interesting details as to this chef-d'ceuvre of the great artist. The rough sketch was made in 1827, Horace Vernet had 54 NEWSPAPER BAITS just been named Director of the Ecole de Rome, and his father, Carle Vernet, accompanied him to Italy. Delacroix took his studio, No. 15, Quai Voltaire. There he set to work on this picture, but found so much difficulty in its composition that he recommenced it eight times. " The white tablecloth," he said to M. Villot, " will be my Austerlitz or my Waterloo. I begin it to-morrow, come and see me in the evening." His friend was punctual. Delacroix, in a short, red, flannel blouse, pallet in hand, opened his door. " All right," he exclaimed, " it is my Austerlitz," showing the picture. The cloth, thrown into strong relief by the bloody scene, lighted up the whole canvas with marvellous effect. The Duke of Orleans gave 1,500 francs for the picture, a mere fraction of its worth, but Delacroix was then unknown. M. Villot purchased it at the late Duchess's sale. It has been exhibited twice in Paris and once in London, in 1862. You are aware that it is the practice for all French papers to offer subscribers a premium varying in value according to the length of the abonnement. Thus La France offered George Sand's Histoire de Ma Vie, sixteen volumes, for a year's subscription ; the Constitutionnel, Lamartine's Confidences, two volumes, for six months ; and in a journal de modes I saw twelve photographs of the subscriber, to be taken by Pranck, offered as an inducement for a three months' abonne- ment. To all this we are accustomed, but quite a novel idea has been struck out by a paper started at Rome last week. This journal has been fortunate enough to secure no less a boon than the blessing of His Holiness the Pope, and its editor offers to spread the papal benediction over all who subscribe within a specified time to his paper. The Opinion Nationale inquires whether three-months' subscribers will be equally blessed with more pious souls who write down their names for a year's benediction as well as for the paper. The hippophagic, otherwise horseflesh, banquet came off yesterday, so I understand, at the Grand Hotel, one hundred and thirty odd persons having taken tickets. The dinner took place in the great Salle Hemicycle. THE HORSEFLESH BANQUET 55 Horse soup, horse-boiled aux choux, horse en bosuf d la mode, horse roast, horse pAti defoie with trufifles, were successively eaten and discussed. At dessert M. de Quatrefages, the Chairman of the Horseflesh Committee, drank to the memory of the illustrious Geoifroy de Saint Hilaire, who first suggested the idea of turning that noble animal to the vile use of feed- ing mankind. M. Gustave Geoffroy Saint Hilaire, the Director of the Jardin d'Acclimatation, returned thanks for the honour done to his father. M. Jules Delbruck next addressed the company, putting the thing in a moral point of view which struck me as original. He said that, whereas now horses were abused and made to work while breath was in them, once accepted as an article of food pains would be taken by their possessors to preserve them from injury, and a speedier end would be put to their life of toil by the necessity of kill- ing them before they had attained a great age. This, however, was victoriously refuted by the next speaker, the Director of the Veterinary School of Alfort, who pleasantly assured the guests that in order to prove that a horse was good for food to the last, he himself had supplied the chef of the Grand H6tel for the dinner they had just eaten with pieces of used- up old animals, with scarcely any flesh on their bones, the youngest of the lot having attained fourteen years and the others twenty, and even two-and-twenty years of age. The effect of this speech on the assembly reminded me of a story told of Alexandre Dumas, who while travelling in Russia and being offered a bear steak for his dinner accepted the novelty, and, after eating the whole, remarked on its excel- lence to the master of the hotel. The latter replied, " Ah, he was an awful beast, and hard to catch ; but our best shot killed him last night. He had eaten the young man's father, whole, in the morning." S6 THE VERNETS February it,th. A dynasty of artists, who for one hundred and fifty years held their undisputed sway in France, became extinct on the 17th January, 1863, in the person of that king of historical painters, Horace Vernet. Their history has appeared this week, written by Amddee Durande, entitled Joseph, Carle, et Horace Vernet. The book is charmingly written, and, I should say, would be very popular in England. After tracing the brilliant career of Joseph and Carle, we come to the more recent life of Horace, telling of his birth in the Louvre, which had been the home of three generations of the family, where the child drew soldiers and horses before he could write his name. Carle had been a fierce Royalist ; Horace, the future master-painter of battle-pieces, was enthusiastically attached to the Empire. Horace Vernet's pictures, Bdranger's songs, and Queen Hortense's airs were the events of the day even before Horace went to Rome. Louis Philippe's acces- sion recalled him to France, and the formation of the historic galleries of Versailles supplied him with abundant work. The King sent him to Algeria to study the scenes of his son's victories. On his return Horace quarrelled with the King about the price of a picture and started for Russia, but returned home to paint with more genius and rapidity than any of his contemporaries. Horace Vernet differed widely from his son-in-law, Delaroche, on the principles of art, but was deeply attached to him. For many years I lived in a house close to his atelier ^.t Versailles, Impasse des Gendarmes; I was a child at the time. I used to see Louis Philippe pay- ing him visits whilst he was painting, at the Jeu de Paume, his gigantic picture of the "Due d'Aumale taking the Smilah." He was a spare, short man, full of nerve and activity. In 1848 he was colonel of the National Guard of Seine-et-Oise, and the uniform became him extremely. No one ever painted the French soldier as he did. I have often, in the galleries at Versailles, observed privates staring at Horace HIPPOLYTE FLANDRIN 57 Vernet's battle-pieces, recognising with the greatest delight the likeness of one of their comrades, for he always sent to the barracks for his models. He and I were neighbours for many years, and I have only one complaint to make of him, namely, that to the infinite detriment of my breakfasts and dinners Horace Vernet enticed a splendid woman cook out of my house to sit as model for an Algerian slave in his great picture of the "Smilah." But revenons d nos moutons. Amed^e Durande's book is well worth reading. February lyth.. The exhibition at the Ecole des Beaux Arts of the works of Hippolyte Flandrin opened yesterday. The proceeds are to be given to the Association for Poor Artists. Eleven pictures, forty-three portraits, and a most interesting collection of cartoons and sketches of the frescoes which Flandrin executed for the Churches of Saint Germain-des Prds, St. S6verin, and St. Paul de Nimes are exhibited. Flandrin excelled in his portraits, which are perfect photographs in accuracy of likeness and detail. His portrait of" Napoleon HI." and of the " Jeune Fille a I'CEillet," well known as Madame de Mackau, are types of opposite style : selon mot, the former is an unrivalled portrait, conveying the character of the Emperor with startling accuracy to the spectator, and the latter a very ordinary picture. His portrait of Prince Napoleon is another success ; Flandrin preserved the like- ness, while strongly marking the Napoleonic cast of features so peculiar to the Prince. Count Walewski's portrait is admirable, whereas neither the Countess Sieyes nor the Countess Maison have sufficient softness of colouring to please me. His own portrait conveys to one the idea of an ill-tempered ascetic, whereas poor Flandrin was one of the gentlest and most timid of human beings, his mild nature being deeply tinged with melancholy. As a work of art the portrait has immense value, but it does not do the great man justice as a likeness. A lady in the crowd, contemplating S8 COLOURS AT THE INVALIDES the portrait of a young girl simply attired in white, the sleeves and petticoat of whose dress are of the narrow pro- portions worn a few years ago, exclaimed, looking at her own flowing skirt, the ample dimensions of which certainly measured some six or seven yards in circumference, " Est-il possible que de cela nous sommes arriv^es a ceci ? " March ^rd. A most interesting ceremony has taken place at the Invalides, which recalls the visit of the Allies to Paris in 1 8 14, who in the papers which give an account of it are designated as nos ennemis. It appears that when these said ennemis were on the point of entering Paris, Marshal S^rurier, then Governor of the Invalides, determined to burn no less than 1,417 stand of colours taken at different periods by the armies of France from foreign nations ; this holocaust was hurriedly accomplished in the dead of night, and so imper- fectly that several old soldiers were able to abstract some of the flags : these, a devoted adherent of the Empire, Baron d'Autist, has with indefatigable energy collected and presented to the Emperor. Among them the Scotch standard of the 66th Regiment, two Egyptian flags taken from the Mamelukes, two Prussian, one Austrian, two Spanish, and one Portuguese standards. To these General d'Autist has added two pur- chased by him in Switzerland, one of which was presented by Richelieu under the regency of Marie de Medicis to the Grisons. It is in perfect preservation, and bears the device, " If God be for us, who can be against us ? 1619." A second is in a ragged condition, and has the date 1476 embroidered on it. The Grisons rallied round this flag at the Battle of Morat, where the Swiss beat the Burgundian Duke, Charles le Tem^raire. These relics were transferred on Sunday last to the Invalides, escorted by a squadron of Chasseurs, and were received by Comte de Brancion, surrounded by his staff", and the old soldiers drawn up in line within the gates. The Comte, as he took each standard from the cavalry officer HAT FEATHERS 59 who had the charge of it, handed it to an invalide decorated with the Legion d'Honneur. A procession was then formed, at the head of which were the twelve invalides carrying the twelve ancient trophies of their country's victories. These led the way to the chapel, where, to the solemn peal of the organ and shrill note of the bugle, the old banners were replaced in the niches from which they had been hurriedly torn forty-one years since. Avts aux dames, the feathers of the sophophore are the last caprice of fashion. One of its queens having worn a plume of this bird in her hat, the rest of the fair Parisian world must naturally be adorned by the same brilliant plumage. One pair was imported last year by the Socidtd du Jardin d'Acclimatation, and it is a fact that the officials attached to the gardens have been persecuted by the importunities of every class of the fair sex, from that of the duchess to the anonyma of the day, for even one feather of this rara avis. The petitioners, however, have been heartlessly refused, as even the Gardens possessed but the male bird, the hen having died. En revanche, however, they sell the wings of Chinese ducks, of golden pheasants, and of an American bird almost for their weight in gold, and find this new traffic quite as remunerative as the more serious sale of acclimatised animals. The prison of the Madelonnettes, opposite the temple, is occupied by condemned criminals of both sexes as well as by persons awaiting their trial. The juvenile vagrants and young thieves are organised on a military plan, the well- behaved being raised to the rank of corporals and sergeants. Besides being taught to read and write, they are instructed in some trade, such as shoemaking, tailoring, weaving, etc. Lately they have also received lessons in music, and the results obtained are surprising. On Shrove Tuesday a vocal concert was given by sixty of these unfortunate lads, who had been trained by Aime Paris according to the Chevd method. They sang the chorus in Don Juan, to which M. Aimd Paris set French words ; the " Tirelire a Jacquot," 6o REFORMATORIES by Clapisson ; " Les Forgerons," by Ascoli ; " Des Deux Avares," by Gr^try, and several other well-known airs. The young musicians seemed quite surprised at their own per- formance, which was most creditable. They also went through the exercises M. Paris wrote out on a blackboard with a precision of rhythm and intonation which is often wanting in professional chorus singers. The applause of the audience, which consisted of five hundred poor prisoners, was pleasant to hear. They encored several of the pieces, and these the governor of the prison immediately directed the singers to repeat, the genuine delight depicted on their rough countenances seeming to give him the utmost gratifi- cation. He was heard to state that sirice the mass sung by these young Orph^onistes at Christmas he had not been required to inflict a single punishment. This is a grand result obtained by music, and, be it remembered, among some of the most corrupt and debased of the human race. March c,ik. The ceremony of replacing the standards recovered by Baron d'Autist at the Invalides last Sunday has raised the question as to what has been the fate of Frederick the Great's sword, which Napoleon I. took from Potsdam after the Battle of Jena, and sent to the Invalides as a trophy of his great victory. It appears that on the night during which the con- flagration of the standards took place by order of Marshal Serurier, this sword was sawn in four parts, and each portion built into the four inner walls of the Hotel des Invalides. March gth. As it is likely that the debtors' prison of Clichy will be done away with during the course of this session, the follow- ing details on its organisation may prove interesting. The average number of prisoners for debt sent there is from 450 to 500. When the prisoner has passed the three great entrance AND PRISONS 6 1 gates he is paid 45 f. per month — a sum totally inadequate to his support, as Government neither supplies him with firing nor any kind of provision, and many of the unfortunate in- mates have to support their families out of this pittance of IS. id. per day. Necessity is the mother of invention. In 1848 the prisoners formed an association for their mutual support, and, strange to tell, Government did not attempt to interfere with their plan. A committee, chosen by ballot among the prisoners, drew up the following regulations : Each member was bound to subscribe 10 c. {id.) per day, which would give him the privilege of using the close oven purchased by the association, likewise baths at a reduced price, and to mess with the association at the rate of Sal costumi at Mi-Carime, to which the Duke gave an unwilling consent. It is to be feared that owing to the Duke's constant acts of generosity a very small pro- vision has been made for his children. The dull sound of cannon booming across the hushed city announced, at an early hour, that all that remains of De Morny was this day [March 1 3] to be laid in the grave. Summoned in the name of " La Duchesse de Morny et ses enfants " to the Palace of the Presidency at eleven o'clock, the immediate friends of the family, the great officers of State, forty of the senators, the Corps L^gislatif, the Cour de Cassation, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, diplomatists, and courtiers, thronged the corridors and the magnificent salle which had been converted into a " chapelle ardente," where lay the plain, black velvet coffin covered by a silver-edged pall. The whole of the outside of the building was draped with black, and the motto in silver, " Pro Patrii et Imperatore," was inscribed on the columns. In the Cour d'Honneur waited the silver-and- 66 THE FUNERAL OF black hearse, surmounted by the coronet of the late Duke, over which black crape was thrown. At half-past eleven the coffin, followed by General Comte Flahaut, Marquis de la Valette, atid the attendant crowd, was carried out, and the hearse, surrounded by an escort of the Cent Gardes, pro- ceeded towards the Madeleine. Immediately following came the late Duke's state carriage draped with sables, two Court carriages magnificently turned out, the servants wearing state liveries, the splendid horses caparisoned with scarlet- and-gold harness ; the state carriages of Prince Napoleon and Princess Mathilde ; the Duchess's private carriage ; next to which came a plain English brougham, bearing the foreign coronet of a count and that of an English peeress. Next followed the state equipage of the Austrian Embassy, occupied by Her Excellency Princess de Metternich, the state carriages of the senators, the private carriages of the deputies, ambassadors, etc. The streets were lined with troops from an early hour. The procession was escorted by squadrons of every cavalry regiment quartered in Paris. The shops were closed, and every window, balcony, and even the roofs of the houses crowded by persons of every class and grade. I must not omit that a deputation of the Polish Committee, wearing their tattered uniforms, formed part of the procession. Within the immense church of the Madeleine the densest gloom prevailed, the floors, walls, and ceiling being covered with black cloth, relieved at wide intervals by small escutcheons, emblazoned by the ducal arms and coronet, and by shields bearing the initial " M " in silver. Every ray of outward daylight was excluded, and an unearthly shade produced by green fire burnt in gigantic silver sconces, which, mingled with the subdued light of thousands of wax tapers, added to the sepulchral scene in the interior of the vast church. The sound of muffled drums informed us of the approach of the coffin. Two lines of white-robed priests, preceding the Archbishop of Paris wearing his full canonicals and mitre, moved slowly down the aisle to the great entrance, the choir singing the Miserere, occasionally interrupted by DE MORNY 67 the deep peal of the organ. Borne by eight men, the coffin was carried up the centre of the church, followed by the representatives of the Emperor, General Fleury, Marshal Vaillant, and the Duke de Bassano, and was placed under the catafalque prepared for its reception, over which a baldequin, lined with ermine, was suspended, surrounded by several hundred tapers. On swept the brilliant crowd — the white uniforms of the Austrian, the scarlet coats of the English, representatives of the Embassy, the dark green dress of the Italian envoy and his attaches, the crimson robes of the presidents of the law courts, the bright yellow costume of the great officers of justice, contrasting with the dark uniforms of the French marshals and the black-and- gold embroidered state dress of the senators and deputies. The effect of this mass of brilliant colour, thrown into the strongest relief by the sable hue of the gloomy background, was very striking. The Duke de Persigny, the Ministre d'Etat, the Chancellier of the Ldgion d'Honneur, and the Ministre de I'lnterieur, wearing their grand cordons, took their places in black velvet fauteuils at each corner of the catafalque ; while the representatives of the Emperor and ambassadors were placed near the grand altar. The Arch- bishop intoned the service, standing at the head of the coffin, his mitre and train borne by attendant bishops. In the tribune reserved over the grand altar for the family of the Duke I remarked several ladies, whose grief seemed almost uncontrollable. The ceremonies of the church concluded in half an hour. As the coffin issued from under the broad person of La Madeleine, a bright flash of sunlight burst from the lowering clouds and lit up the scene with marvellous effect. The dense crowd was kept in line by the Garde Imp^riale. At a slow pace the immense procession moved towards Pere la Chaise, where the body will lie till prepara- tions for its reception are completed on the Duke's estate in Auvergne. As I left the cemetery the Ministre d'Etat, M. Rouher, was speaking, and M. Schneider, the Vice-President, was to 68 THE PELISSIER deliver the second oration over the grave. None of the evening papers can reproduce these speeches, as the hour is so late, and the line of carriages alone took one hour and a quarter to pass. A great country has paid its last homage to its favourite statesman with all the pomp and circumstance that could surround the funeral ceremony ; but if long lines of ministers in their state uniforms, of diplomatists from every Court in Europe, and of deputies in embroidered uniforms, marked that, although crdpe covered their swords, their attendance was officially required, there are breaking hearts and bitter tears for De Morny, and deep, unfeigned sorrow is widely felt for him. March \t,th. A most extraordinary case of parricide has been brought before the assizes of the Puy de D6me, and occupies public attention. An old couple named P^lissier Grimardias were living at the beginning of i860 in the town of Maringues, the husband being then seventy years of age and the wife sixty. P,^lissier had been an old soldier of the First Empire, but had turned baker. He had a son Jean, who was married, but had no children, and a daughter Fran5oise, married to one Morand. From his youth Jean Pdlissier had been remarked in the neighbourhood for the brutality of his character. He had of latter years constantly been heard to say that when people's parents became old and useless, they ought to be got rid of. In December, 1857, Jean P^lissier was im- prisoned for having thrown a wooden shoe at a girl's head. He had often struck his wife with an iron instrument used in the process of baking. His only companion was a returned convict. In the beginning of i860 quarrels as to money matters between him and his parents arose, and Jean succeeded in inducing the whole family to set out for Riom, a town nineteen kilometres from Maringues, to consult a lawyer. He, however, managed to send home his wife and sister. They were much surprised next day at the non-appear- MURDERS 69 ance of the old couple or of Jean, who did not return till midnight, when he stated that his father had met an old comrade, a man named S6n6, who had a very profitable wine business at Marseilles, whither he had induced his parents to accompany him. In a few days Jean read aloud a letter from his father to his wife and sister, in which the old man begged he would join him at Marseilles, and bring with him a supply of clothes for himself and his mother. Jean left home immediately, and returned in the course of a few days, reporting most favourably of his father's new business, stat- ing that his mother assisted in Sene's shop, and that both were making considerable sums of money. It must be remembered that neither his wife nor sister could read. During the years 1860-3 Jean from time to time read out similar letters and absented himself from home, in- variably returning with money, which, he stated, his parents had given him. Meanwhile his sister repeatedly expressed a wish to accompany him on a visit to her parents, and at last insisted on doing so last May. In spite of all the difficulties Jean raised to her journey, she commenced her preparations, when on the nth Jean received a letter from Sen6, announcing the death of old Madame Pdissier, and stating that just as the old man was starting for Maringues to inform his family of her death he himself died of apoplexy. Jean set off instantly in a state of most demon- strative affliction. A sudden doubt flashed across the mind of his sister. She inquired at the post office, and on ascer- taining that no letter from Marseilles had been delivered to her brother she felt convinced that he had murdered her parents. Jean made his appearance at the end of two days. A frightful scene ensued. To the appeals of his family as to what he had done with his parents he replied, " That is my secret. What has been done will benefit you all, and I abide the consequences." His sister, frantic with grief and horror, and perfectly convinced of his guilt, took him apart, implored him to save the honour of the family, and begged him to commit suicide rather than ascend the scaffold. A few 70 JEAN PELISSIER hours later the poor creature, struck with remorse for having suggested a fresh crime to her brother and maddened by des- pair, cut her own throat. The police having got scent of the suicide and of its motive, succeeded in capturing Jean, who had left Maringues the night of his sister's death. The investiga- tions which followed showed that no trace could be found of the prisoner's father and mother after their arrival at Riom, but it was ascertained that on the following night the prisoner had employed a carrier to convey a large box, weigh- ing at least 300 lbs., from that town to his own residence at Maringues, that the prisoner himself accompanied the cart, and took the box into his house without disturbing his wife or anyone else. There is reason to believe that this box contained the bodies of the missing couple, and that the prisoner had succeeded in concealing or destroying them during the long interval between the crime and his apprehen- sion. When the carrier gave his evidence in court, the prisoner asserted that it was all false. After the Procureur- Gdndral had addressed the Court for the prosecution, the prisoner requested permission to make a statement to the Court in the Council Chamber, which was granted, and when the public audience was resumed the prisoner repeated the declarations already made in private, to the effect that his father and mother had both thrown themselves into the Rhone at Lyons. The counsel for the defence then proposed to postpone the further hearing of the case, but the Court decided that the trial should continue, a decision which was loudly applauded by the public. The President accordingly summed up the evidence, and the jury having brought in a verdict of guilty, with extenuating circumstances, the Court sentenced the prisoner to hard labour for life. March 26ih. The great event of the day is the judgment delivered in the case of M. Rogeard, author of Les Propos de Labienus, and his printer, Riquier Laind, which was not known when I THE DEATH OF COBDEN 71 closed my letter of Friday. It runs thus : " Seeing that Rogeard published during the first days of this month a pamphlet of twenty pages, entitled Les Propos de Labienus ; that the first edition of 1,200 copies was seized at the office of the printer, Riquier Laine ; that this pamphlet, professing to be a picture of the Roman Empire during the reign of Augustus, under the pretext of a conversation between two Romans, Gallien and Labienus, on recently published memoirs of the Emperor Augustus, discusses the affairs of France and of its Sovereign, casts the most outrageous and infamous libels on the person of the Emperor ; that furthermore these cleverly devised calumnies rise in virulence to the delirium of evil passions — therefore in publishing and selling this pamphlet Rogeard, its author, has been guilty of a public attack on the person of the Emperor, which makes him amenable to Article 86 of the Penal Code." The incrimination of the printer, Riquier Laind, precedes the sentence, and reads thus : " Rogeard is sentenced to five years' imprisonment and Riquier Laine to one month's imprisonment." Fortunately for him, Rogeard is in Belgium, and, I should say, not likely to return to Paris just at present. I happen to know that Riquier gave the pamphlet to his men to print without having the slightest idea of its contents. His attention was only attracted to it by the crowds of persons who suddenly came to his office to purchase copies. He then read it from mere curiosity. April ird. The death of Mr. Cobden has created a great sensation in Paris. All this evening's papers contain leading articles of considerable length, giving a biographical sketch of the life of the great economist, and passing a high eulogium on his untiring efforts and persevering labours in the interest of free trade. The Temps considers that France will regret Mr. Cobden as much as in England. He was an unflinching supporter and advocate of the Franco-English alliance, and, though he waged an unceasing war against English prejudices, 72 FRENCH PAPERS ON COBDEN England ought to feel more proud of having produced him than any other modern statesman. Mr. Cobden was well known in Paris society, having often resided here, and attracted to his salon a large circle of the politicians and literary men of the day. The Temps concludes its article in the following words : " Mr. Cobden was le fils des ceuvres" a characteristic expression, meaning that he owed his great name to his own exertions. " But," continues the Temps, " we are quite correct ; he was also the son of English liberty, and of that admirable Constitution which represses no indi- vidual exertion. It was by the mere power of liberty, fully granted as it is in England, that the unknown village boy rose to fame and influence, and compelled Government to adopt his ideas, and in the teeth of the aristocratic party accomplished a tremendous revolution in the political economy of the world. In spite of the Revolution of '89, France has never brought forth a man of his caste." La France says that Mr. Cobden was a living example of what ideas, while they are true and just, can produce when they act under the impulse of genius, patriotism, and faith. His doctrines, in which every superior mind of the present day participates, are surely and rapidly advancing towards con- summation. The Presse has put its pages into mourning, and Emile de Girardin declares that but for Cobden Sir Robert Peel would have little chance of being remembered by posterity. He describes Cobden, who had declined to become a member of the Government, as "the minister of enlightened public opinion in England," and remarks that Cobden was in truth more powerful than the whole Cabinet, for he had succeeded in changing the entire course of the foreign policy of his country. Europe, says M. de Girardin, ought to appoint a day of general mourning for the deceased statesman. M. Paulin Limayrac, chief editor of the Consti- tutionnel, says in that journal that " in the death of Mr. Cobden England loses one of her most illustrious citizens, and economic science one of its loftiest and purest lights. The last time we had the honour of seeing Mr, Cobden he THE MULE RIGOLO 73 spoke about France and her Sovereign in terms which are engraved on our memory, and still more deeply on our heart." The debates on the address have, I admit, absorbed a con- siderable portion of public interest, but the mule Rigolo has been the event of the week, and if I have not mentioned him before, mea culpa, I humbly crave your pardon, and proceed at once to put you au courant of all that concerns this marvellous beast. Rigolo was sent by the proprietor of the Vienna circus to M. Degeau, the manager of the Cirque de lTmp6ratrice, as well as of the Cirque Napol6on. Rigolo belongs to the Opposition, which probably accounts for his popularity, and distinctly refuses to listen to gentle remon- strances or angry invectives, were they even backed by the strong arms of the Government whippers-in themselves. Rigolo arrived in Paris, and appeared in the arena of the Cirque Napoleon with the prestige of his reputation. He had thrown every rough-rider in Germany, and for the last few days he kept up his character. However, Rigolo was con- quered — first by a common gamin, to whom, when on the mule's back, the bright thought occurred to blind him by put- ting his hands over the beast's eyes. Rigolo stood motionless. T\\e gamin was paid the prize of 100 f, and was tremendously cheered, and Rigolo, crestfallen and humble, was led back to his stable amidst shouts of derision. But Rigolo's hour was not yet come. Saturday evening a man, to all appearance a groom, entered the arena. Rigolo had successively thrown dozens of rough-riders. This unassuming individual walked up to him, and in less time than I can write completely mastered him ; whereupon a scene ensued which defies description, and even surpassed the memorable field-day of last Thursday in another arena, in the vehemence of the excitement manifested by the actors as well as the audience. On the victory of the strange groom being evident the men of the circus, conscious of their defeat, interfered to prevent the man carrying out the programme and winning his 100 f by riding three times round the circus. On perceiving this 74 THE DEATH OF COBDEN the audience rose simultaneously. A storm of hisses and groans was speedily accompanied by a volley of projectiles, chiefly consisting of the small stools so liberally supplied in all places of public entertainment in France. Rigolo escaped to his stables, and Leotard endeavoured to put an end to the disturbance by attempting to commence his usual gymnastic feats. Notwithstanding several remonstrances on the im- prudence of attempting to perform in the midst of such a scene, he began his feats, and met with a severe fall. This excited the audience to such a pitch that they rushed into the arena, charged the circus grooms, who had to fly, refused to allow Leotard to recommence, and for at least three- quarters of an hour the hisses, groans, and shouts of " Rigolo ! Rigolo ! " continued, when a division of Gardes Municipaux and a strong body of sergents de ville, under the orders of several police agents, appeared and very speedily cleared the house. I must say the police were wrong — the groom ought to have been allowed to gain his loof, which he had every chance of winning fairly. April 4tk. " We regret to announce the death of Mr. Richard Cobden. France unites with England in paying the tribute of regret to this great economist." Such are the first words of the first paragraph of the Moniteur of this morning, which devotes one of its columns to an able sketch of the great man's career. It commences thus : " The nineteenth century has lost one of the men who have shed the most lustre on the age, and whose life characterises the r61e which it will take in the history of humanity." The article is unsigned ; its style singularly resembles that of an illustrious author, whose friendship for Mr. Cobden is a matter of history. I do not translate it, because Renter has conveyed it to you. It concludes by the following remarkable words : — "Richard Cobden, on his death-bed, had the satisfaction of seeing his great work, so fully appreciated {si grandement comprise) by Napoleon III., radiate over the whole of M. PREVOST-PARADOL 75 Europe from the impulse of a French statesman. In that respect France has been faithful to her initiatory mission. Richard Cobden understood this ; he loved France. France will not forget him." With the exception of Emile de Girardin's leading article in La Presse, which paper, by-the- by, appeared last night with a mourning border, this notice in the Moniteur is the best, though not the longest, which has as yet been published on the great man of the day. Last night I happened to be at a soirie in a fashionable salon. The only topic of conversation was the immense loss even this country has sustained in the death of Mr. Cobden, which, from its suddenness, startled the Parisian world, and has created a painful sensation, as well as a deep feeling of regret, only equalled by that experienced on the death of the Duke de Morny. In France Mr. Cobden's genius was appre- ciated and admired, while the kindness of his heart and the unswerving honesty of his principles won for him universal esteem and affection. April ph. The nomination of M. Prdvost-Paradol to the vacant chair at the Academy has taken Paris by surprise, and gives sincere pleasure to all men of independent views. The new Academician is one of the staunchest supporters of the Orleanist party, and has steadily declined all the tempting offers which have been made to entice him over to the ranks of the Government party, his talented pen being a weapon they would gladly see wielded in their cause. His pointed and clever articles in the D^bats and the Courrier du Dimanche always attract attention, and the latter paper undoubtedly owes much of its popularity to the fact that M. Pr^vost- Paradol is one of its contributors. Yet, although I am of the new Academician's most steady admirers, and appreciate his talent and independence, I cannot help admitting that the veteran writer, Jules Janin, had a prior claim to M. Ampere's vacant chair. M. Paradol had sixteen votes, M. Jules Janin fourteen. At the dinner given yesterday by the Societe des ^6 A LITERARY DINNER Gens de Lettres, under the presidency of Baron Taylor, this feeling was strongly manifested by the literary men of France. One hundred and fifty were present. As soon as the news of the result of the elections reached us, M. Leo Lesp^s, whose nom-de-plume is " Timothee Trimm," a daily writer in the Petit Journal, rose and proposed a toast to the "father of the feuilletonistes of France — Jules Janin," which was received with the greatest enthusiasm, and the Academy was hissed. Camille Doucet has been returned to fill Alfred de Vigny's vacant chair. The true importance of M. Pr^vost- Paradol's election is that it is a political protest, organised, of course, by M. Guizot. To return to the dinner : the only remarkable speech made was that of Paul F6val, our Presi- dent for this year, pointing out the necessity of union if we are really sincere in our scheme of reorganisation and reform. I cannot say much for the speech of M. le Baron Taylor, although he is a noted personage. He made a most unfortu- nate allusion to his own liberality in having telegraphed to Epernay for some dozens of champagne for our benefit, expressing a pious hope that, like good little boys, we would not take too much. Of course, that paragraph of his speech was anything but applauded. For the last few years Baron Taylor's whole occupation in life has been presiding over dinners on every possible occasion, and this habit has become a second nature to such an extent that he gives directions to his household in the usual accepted forms of speech adopted on public occasions, calling his cook to order as though she were a troublesome speaker, and announcing to his servants that they were requested to vote for the dinner. The salient fact at yesterday's dinner was the presence ol femmes de lettres. However learned and witty these blue-stockings may have been, I cannot in truth say much for their beauty. M. PARADOrS ELECTION ^^ April \oth. M. Sainte-Beuve is to present the prods-verbal of the ballot, which took place on the 6th to replace Count Alfred de Vigny and M. Ampere at the Acad^mie Frangaise, to the Emperor at the Tuileries. This duty devolves on M. Sainte-Beuve, he being director of the Academy. M. Sandeau is to reply to the speech of M. Camille Doucet, and M. Guizot to that of M. Pr^vost-Paradol. The latter is to allude to M. Ampere's Histoire Romaine d Rome, a sub- ject which excites peculiar interest just at present ; the young Academician's speech will, therefore, be listened to with deep attention. M. Paradol will certainly appear singularly youthful among the grey-headed forty, and his election has excited the bitterest animadversion on account of his extreme youth. I do not know his age, but his slight figure and delicately-chiselled features combine to increase the defect which undoubtedly time will remedy. A good story is told, or has been invented, of his concierge. Since Thursday, on which day he was elected, the old lady has been well-nigh driven out of her wits by the accumulation of letters, notes, cards, and messages of congratulation which she has been commissioned to deliver, and naively asked M. Paradol, " Sir, are you once more going to prison that all these visits arrive ? " — alluding to the imprisonment inflicted on him for one of his satirical attacks on Government. As I have not seen M. Paradol since his election I cannot vouch for the story. April lyik. There exists perhaps in France but one power which has kept its ground, in spite of revolution, and exerts as great an influence at the present day on society as it did when Moliere wrote and Rabelais laughed, and that power is Ridicule. Not only has Ridicule outlived monarchs of every political creed, but in many instances Ridicule has been the 78 DAUMIER'S CARICATURES hammer by which the thrones of these kings have been smashed to pieces. " Le Ridicule tue," says the French, and never was there a truer saying as applied to this country. Were I to be asked who contributed most to the fall of Louis Philippe, Guizot or Daumier, I should unhesitatingly reply, Daumier. His transforming the head of Louis Philippe into a pear, which caricature covered the walls of Paris for years, was undoubtedly the first blow to the July monarchy. A French writer, who certainly possessed to a high degree the power and bitterness of satire of Thackeray combined with the humour of Dickens, M. Champfleury, has for many years made it his special study to ascertain whether the sense of the ridiculous and of satire was ever expressed by means of caricature among the ancients. He now puts before the public the result of his long and laborious research in the form of a charming volume, Histoire de la Caricature Antique, illustrated by the most curious engravings. Champ- fleury does not, however, inform us to which nation it first occurred to hold public men up to ridicule by means of caricatures, and thus expose their hollowness and put their weak points before the world in strong relief, but he clearly proves that the Assyrians and Egyptians practised the art of caricaturing. In fact, he has no hesitation in classing as caricatures some of the peculiar drawings those nations indulged in, which have been discovered on the stupendous monuments they have left of their skill in architecture. I cannot help agreeing with Champfleury, and I do believe that the art of caricature — traces of which have been found in the wilds of Siberia, as well as in the more recently dis- covered regions of the globe — must have existed from the first day that it struck a man's mind to trace upon the ground a sketch of a human face. I regret to say that among the curious satirical prints contained in Champfleury's book is one of so blasphemous a nature that I cannot venture to describe it. It is, moreover, one of the most im- portant graffites that exists, and was discovered in a garden near Mount Palatin. This only tends to prove that all is CHAMPFLEURY ON CARICATURES 79 not ludicrous in caricature, and that comicality among the ancients was of a more serious nature, and not so jocose as it has since become. Champfleury's Histoire de la Caricature Antique is sure to be a great success here, and with a few alterations and the suppression of one or two of the illustra- tions would certainly be welcomed by the intellectual classes in England : a translation of the work might prove re- munerative to a publisher. It is exquisitely got up, and written with his usual talent ; du reste no one is more fit to treat the subject of ridicule than Champfleury, he himself being a literary caricaturist of no mean order. He delights in caricature, not only because it laughs down many of the major and minor humbugs of society and wages war against all sham, cant, and conventionalism, but because it tends to improve the moral tone of society by exciting mirth, which is decidedly serviceable to our bodily health. Champfleury agrees with Professor Hufeland, of Berlin, that the royal practice of having buffoons and jesters at table during meals was founded on true medical principles. Such being the case, I strongly recommend you to get the book, and thus save your constitution many a blue pill and your pocket many a doctor's fee. April \%th. From three to seven o'clock yesterday the Champs Elysees presented a scene essentially typical of Parisian life. To say that the vast space from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de I'Etoile was a moving mass of life is no exaggeration, for the broad avenue was not only densely thronged by car- riages and riders going to the races at Longchamps, but the side walks were so closely packed by fauteuils and chairs, from which the fashionable world, who from accident or caprice did not go the races, passed in review the toilettes of their friends as they drove by, that the humbler idlers of the day with difficulty were able to thread their way along the wide footpaths, and indeed were mostly compelled to walk in the side gardens, where troops of children — some in 8o THE CHAMPS ELYSEES goat-carriages, others shouting with glee at the time-honoured quarrels of " Polichinelle " and "La M^re Gigogne," or gazing with wonder at tinsel marionettes — were as thoroughly en- joying Easter Monday as their parents in the Longchamps grand stand. Amidst the gay and brilliant throng were types of every class. It was curious to see an ambassador and his lovely daughter seated next to a group of holiday folks evidently come up from the country to stare at the Paris world ; young clerks enjoying their only day's rest from the thankless labour of the pen ; bourgeoises displaying for the first time the glories of bran new silk dresses, elbowing a courtly group of Tascher de la Pageries and the Chamber- lain's daughter, the belle of the season — the fair Mademoiselle de Bassano. It was a gay and pleasant sight, and we of the plebeian race felt delighted to find our chairs actually touching those of personages of no less mark than His Excellency Lord Cowley, Viscountess Royston, etc. The carriages ! how can I convey to you the faintest idea of their number or variety? Conspicuous among those to which the word equipage can apply was the perfectly turned-out victoria of their Excellencies of Metternich, whose splendid bays, capi- tally matched, and stepping out at the right pace, were ridden by a postillion, his jacket and the body of the carriage being of that intense yellow which makes the equipages of the Austrian Embassy so peculiar. The Prince and Princess were its occupiers. The Princess's costume, a lady told me, was of ecru silk ; I can testify only to a bouquet of white moss roses which was placed before her. A carriage and four bearing a ducal coronet attracted attention from the postillions' turquoise satin jackets, bearing escutcheons with the family arms embroidered on the left sleeve. A landau excited no little merriment laden with carriage builder's workmen. It was unpainted, and the head opened and closed every three minutes, evidently as an advertisement for the inventor of this convenient mode of securing its occupants from rain, which allowed them to enjoy sunshine as they might find it agreeable. The Prince Imperial drove past THE RACES AT LONGCHAMPS 8i with his escort, two little boys occupying the back seat. When he bows he has the most good-humoured and amused smile, which conveys to me the idea that the child himself wonders why the people make a fuss about him. Several low, open carriages were drawn in the style of the old Empire — the harness of rope, grelots attached to the horse-collars, postillions with powdered queues and round hats, bright yellow tights and short green coats, not jackets, faced with red. Count Frederic de Lagrange, as usual, won La Bourse; M. Daru, the Prix de la Grotte; M. Teisseire, the Prix de Guiche ; and Count de Lagrange, twice conqueror, the Prix du Cadran. The event of the day was the race for the Lut^ce prize, 8,000 f, for three -year -olds and upwards, entrance 200 f. ; thirteen horses were entered, eight started. Tourmalet came in first, the property of M. Lupin. And as I walked home from this gay scene, passing up one of the side streets leading to the Rue Fortin, I was attracted to a group of little children chattering in English, their own deep mourning and that of their attendants betokening their orphanage. A likeness in the features of the baby child caught my attention : they were the fatherless children of him who had been almost the founder of the races which had occupied all Paris on that day ; and I asked myself, " Who among that gay and brilliant crowd has thought of De Morny lying dead among the graves of Pere Lachaise ?" April igth. At the last meeting of the Academy of Sciences the Emperor's physician, Dr. Rayer, presented the report, drawn up by M. Chenu, medecin principal, on the results of the medico -chirurgical service of the French hospitals in the Crimea and Turkey during the campaigns of 1854-1856. The following are the frightful statistics contained in page 579 of the report of the number of casualties from ist April, 1854, to 6th July, 1856, and of the deaths resulting either from the effects of wounds or maladies caught in the East up to 31st December, 1857: — G 82 THE MURDER OF PRESIDENT LINCOLN Killed or lost on the field of battle . . 10,240 The loss of the Simillante . . . 702 Died of various diseases, specially cholera, previous to the Battle of Alma . . 8,084 Died of cold and illness before Sebastopol 4,312 Died in hospital up to 31st December, 1857 72,247 Total . 95,585 The French sent 309,268 men to the East ; one-fifteenth were either killed or died of wounds and 74,000 of disease — that is to say, one-fourth of the troops. April 26th. The evening papers are unanimous in their expressions of grief and indignation as to the murder of President Lincoln. The Temps says : — " It is an odious crime and a useless one. Lincoln has died surrounded by the purest of glories and bearing a crown such as no statesman ever wore before him. 'Tis not in vain that he has fought the battle of liberty, and his work will survive him. The providential mission of the United States cannot depend on the mere life of one man, and the liberty which gave birth to Lincoln, and to which Lincoln sacrificed his life, will certainly give birth to other worthy defenders." April 2'jth. The long-impending case of Elizabeth Wilhelmina {nie Countess de Colmar) Brunswick, married, 1847, to the Viscount de Civry, has at last come on. The case for the plaintiff has been undertaken by no less a personage than the veteran leader of the Opposition, M. Marie, whose brilliant eloquence and forensic talent are as well known at the bar as within the precincts of the Corps L^gislatif. M. Allou will reply for the defendant. His Royal Highness Charles Duke of Brunswick. M. Marie recapitulated the history of the case from the year 1825, when the young THE CIVRY-BRUNSWICK CASE 83 Duke, at the age of twenty-two, strikingly handsome and very captivating, arrived in London with all the prestige of his rank, the son of " Brunswick's fated chieftain," " who knew that peal too well which stretched his father on a bloody bier" on the battlefield of Jena. The Duke had, moreover, the singular advantage of being nephew to "the first gentleman in Europe," and, as the tale M. Marie un- folds will prove, appears to have benefited by the example and precepts of his royal uncle, our gracious Sovereign George IV. In London Society His Royal Highness met, at the house of her aunt. Countess Pipper, the beautiful Miss Colville, then seventeen, with whom it was his royal pleasure to fall in love and to whom he proposed a left-handed marriage, asserting that he had talked the matter over with his uncle, the Duke of Sussex, who, having himself done likewise, very probably did consent thereto. The unfortunate girl believed his royal word, and, attended by Miss Matthews and her servants, escorted by the Duke's aide-de-camp, sailed for Calais, where she was met by the Duke and his brother, the present reigning Prince. On reaching the ducal territory she found the chateau of Wendessen prepared for her service. Her daughter, born in 1826, was baptised with all the cere- monial used on the birth of the children of royal princes. The golden font of the Brunswick family was used on the occasion ; the godfather (the present Duke) was represented by his chamberlain ; the child was named after its grand- mother, the Grand Duchess of Baden, and created by letters patent Countess of Colmar. The ducal arms adorned the child's carriage, and her numerous attendants received orders from the Duke in person to watch over the child with the utmost assiduity. Two years later her mother, outraged by His Royal Highness's conduct with a danseuse, fled during his absence from her splendid home, carrying her child with her, but leaving her jewels and even clothes at Wendessen. On the Duke's return he traced her to London, despatched Baron de Girsewold, his first aide-de-camp, with written orders to claim the Countess Colmar, then aged two years, 84 THE CIVRY-BRUNSWICK CASE supplying Miss Mathews with letters of credit on Hammer- sly 's bank for the child's expenses, and desiring her to take charge of the child till further orders. The Duke arrived some months later, and, attended by his chamberlain, Baron d'Andlau, inspected a school at Notting Hill, where he subsequently placed the little Countess, stating her to be his daughter, and desiring that she should be instructed in music by Diilcken, then music-master to the present King of Han- over, and in dancing by Madame Bourdin, who gave lessons at the time to Her Royal Highness Princess Victoria. In 1835 the Duke informed Miss Mathews in person of his wish that she should go to the school at Notting Hill, and, in accordance with orders already communicated to the heads of that establishment, take charge of his daughter to his residence, 52, Chaitnps Elysees, where Miss Mathews was to transfer her to the charge of the Baron and Baroness d'Andlau. The Countess was supplied with a magnificent wardrobe, jewels, etc., and resided in Paris under the care of the Baroness, having the command of her father's establish- ment, carriages, etc., till she was, by the Duke's orders, placed at a school in Nancy, where, at the age of sixteen, she heard the celebrated Pere Lacordaire preach, and under his influence turned Catholic, on which His Royal Highness announced that his religious feelings were so profoundly shocked that he refused to pay for her support, and gave her up totally. The case exciting the interest of the Civry family, whose chateau is close to Nancy, the Count and Countess adopted the young girl, and consented to her marriage with their eldest son, the Viscount de Civry. The consent of the Duke was asked and granted. The marriage took place in London in 1847, and the faire parts were issued in the name of " Baron d'Andlau, Chamberlain to His Royal Highness Prince Charles of Brunswick, Sovereign Duke, etc., who has the honour to announce the marriage of his august daughter, Elizabeth Wilhelmina d'Este Brunswick, Countess de Colmar, with M. Eugene, etc.. Viscount de Civry." She is now Viscountess de Civry; her husband was ruined in 1848, and. THEOPHILE GAUTIER 85 the family estates sold ; she is the mother of eight children, and claims a maintenance from her rouged, bewigged, and diamond-buttoned father, the worthy disciple and nephew of Europe's first gentleman, the exiled Royal Highness Charles, Duke of Brunswick, who fled from his pink palace. Rue Balzac, because his footman stole his diamonds, and because his starving daughter and grandchildren asked for a few thousand francs. The great event of the artistic world of France came off to-day. At twelve o'clock the great exhibition opened. Among the most characteristic figures in the Salon was Theophile Gautier, a "shocking bad hat" attached to the back of his huge head by some process of adhesion known to himself alone, masses of dishevelled hair hanging in heavy locks anywhere but in the right place, and catalogue in hand, making and destroying reputations by the glance of his eye or the stroke of his pen. May yth. The exhibition of paintings is free on Sundays. The physiognomy, if I may use the expression, of the crowd on that day differs essentially from that to be remarked on week- days, when artists come to listen to the criticisms of the world of fashion that fill the Salon and crowd around the ac- knowledged success of the day. On Sunday the rooms are filled by the population of Versailles, Bougival, St. Cloud, and all the environs of Paris, who instinctively select their favourite pictures, regardless of the fiat of feuilletonistes, even of the great Thdophile Gautier himself Yesterday I could scarcely pass from Salle D to Salle G, so dense was the crowd around a picture I had not previously remarked, the subject of attraction being the lovely Princess de Lam- balle in the midst of the Septembrists ; a ruffian, armed with a huge billet of wood, is in the act of aiming at her head ; while another hired assassin with a pike (Tissot, prob- ably, whom I have had the advantage of seeing) and a furious mob, excited and drunk with blood, are about to 86 A DOG SHOW tear the Princess to pieces. I passed on to Corot's lovely- landscape of the Lake Nemi. No notice whatever was paid to it, and yet it is lovely— the distance so exquisitely given, and the receding background marvellous in truth and drawing. The colouring I think less pleasing than that of Fromentin's, but I dare not venture to utter this idea here. I have just left the dog show. I have always had a love of dogs from the day when I was trusted with the important office of throwing a sou to the organ-grinder who used regularly to station himself under the nursery windows, attended by a great white dog, on which rode a red-frocked monkey, and a good dog he was. His race is extinct; so patient, so intelligent and active, and, above all, never bark- ing. The dogs at the exhibition make a frightful row, and no wonder, chained as they are day and night, and separated from their beloved masters. The nights of Musard's con- certs are nights of agony to them. Last Saturday selections from the Favorita were performed, of which the canine race did not approve, and they simultaneously joined in a dis- approbatory chorus, which drove the habitues of that most enjoyable concert half wild. Among the poodle dogs ex- hibited — which breed, by-the-by, is remarkably well repre- sented — is one which beats poor Monito, who, it will be remembered, played at dominoes, and always won at whist. The dog exhibited now is a good Catholic, never eats meat on a Friday, and knows beforehand the changes of the weather as well as the late Mathieu de la Drome. The chief objects of attraction are the thirty -nine Vendean dogs, direct descendants of the celebrated white hounds with which the gay and gallant Henri IV. hunted, as also the Breton pack of M. de Madre. The packs of Count d'Osmond and M. de Caillard, lodged under an iron shed ornamented with thirty boars' feet, trophies of a single hunting season, attract great admiration. There are a great number of splendid pointers. There are King Charleses in abundance ; the hairless dogs of China, Turkey, and Mexico; lots of Scotch THERESA OF THE ALCAZAR 87 terriers, and some few valuable shepherds' dogs, as well as several fine Newfoundlands ; but the most singular part of this exhibition is the pet lap-dog department. Some are really- beautiful little things — snow-white seems to be the fashionable colour this year ; but the mise en scene reminds one of " my lady's boudoir." Each has a little room to itself, the sides lined with rose or blue satin, trimmed with lace and ruches of ribbon, and the gardien gravely informed me that several declined their food unless served on a silver plate. I hope they are not insulted by being offered a plated dish. One of these kennels is a regular dressing-room, worthy of a de- scendant of Ninon de I'Enclos: brushes, combs, sponges, puffs, and perfumes being scattered about. The proprietor of this elegant apartment is a white Havanna dog. The catalogue was not published this morning ; therefore I know not to whom this happy quadruped appertains. The general arrangements are perfect. The fine trees of Cours-la-Reine form an agreeable shade from the burning rays of the sun. Each animal is placed according to its class, and a ticket indicates its race and name. A characteristic story reached me of Theresa, who is constantly invited to sing in the salons of the aristocratic Faubourg St. Germain. After the celebrated songstress had entranced her audience at the Duchess of S 's party last Thursday some of the jeunesse dorh asked her if the songs she had just acted as well as sung were the same as she was in the habit of performing at the Alcazar. "Oh, no," was her reply. " What I have sung here would not be tolerated by the police." The greatest success which has been known for a long time in the theatrical world is Le Supplice dune Femme, which has been mentioned as the joint composition of Emile de Girardin and Alexandre Dumas fils. This statement is hardly correct. Emile de Girardin some months ago wrote a very clever play, which he asked his friend A. Dumas fils to read over and arrange for the stage, as his political occupa- tions prevented his devoting sufficient time to the necessary 88 M. DUMAS AND M. DE GIRARDIN details of the work. M. Dumas accepted the task, willingly made all the arrangements for the performance of the piece, superintended the rehearsals, and finally announced to M. de Girardin that his drama would be performed last Monday. The polhniste was punctual, and was seen by the crowded audience to take his seat and listen with attention for a few moments ; presently he seemed puzzled, then excited. He stood up, sat down, left the box, returned, again listened, read the printed play, and finally, notwithstanding the evi- dent efforts of his friends, left the theatre in disgust. The fact is M. Dumas had rewritten the play, scarcely preserving the original idea of M. de Girardin, and rewritten it with such undeniable talent that the enthusiasm of the audience can only be conveyed by the French expression, " La salle a ^te enlev^e." Had M. Dumas's Supplice d'une Femme proved a failure it might have consoled the politician for the non- appearance of his drama, but that it should have been so radically altered as to be unrecognisable even by himself, and yet be an undoubted success, was a trial even the veteran politician could not stand with common patience. The piece continues to be the great event of the theatrical world. It is beyond any doubt the best-written and most touching piece which has appeared on the French stage for many years. M. de Girardin cannot take this quietly. He has sent his original play to Michel L^vy, with a preface written by himself. The publisher gave him 5,000 f, for the preface, which, en grand seigneur, he at once sent off to Mdlle Favart. May 2Sth. A charming anecdote of the Empress has reached me from Boston. A lady in very reduced circumstances, but who had once occupied a superior station, formed a collec- tion of the varied leaves of the magnificent trees for which the forests of America are so celebrated, whose brilliant tints are well known to exceed in vivid colouring even the foliage of tropical plants. Part of this curious collection was HIDDEN TREASURES 89 placed in an album and sent to one of the crowned heads of Europe, a precisely similar album being sent by the same steamer to the Empress of the French. But the reception of the poor lady's offering at the Courts in question was very different. From the first arrived an acknowledgment penned by an official, stating that "for once" the Sovereign "had condescended to accept the offering, which, however, it was hoped would not be considered as a precedent or encourage- ment for any future similar gifts." From the second the donor had the infinite gratification of receiving a few lines from the pen of Her Imperial Majesty, expressing her surprise at the extreme beauty of the specimens contained in the album, " qu'elle trouvait ravissante," and requesting the lady to accept the ring which she enclosed as a token of her " reconnaissance" the value of the ring being ;^20. Red-tapeism versus genuine kindness of heart. June Stk. Paris hardly knows the unexplored mines of wealth it contains in the private collections of curiosities amassed by connoisseurs. How often do we not wish to travel in order to visit distant galleries or museums, and yet it frequently happens that at our very door we have treasures far more precious than those which amateurs go hundreds of miles to see. For instance, I have just visited a private gallery which very few English have even heard of It is situated in a small avenue which runs into the Faubourg St. Honord, and is the property of M. Aristide le Carpentier. I can only compare this gallery to the Mus6e de Cluny. You enter by a sculptured door, the bronze knocker of which is wrought with such rare skill that Baron Rothschild offered M. le Carpentier eighty pounds for it, but the latter refused to sell it, You ascend a staircase, and are struck by the design of the open gilt iron- work of the balustrade. It was once that of the pulpit in St. Germain des Pres. You seize a chased steel ball attached to a chain of marvellous work, and are presently all but deafened by a tam ! tam ! loud enough to arouse the Seven 90 M. LE CARPENTIER'S Sleepers. The door has flown open, and you are admitted within the sanctum sanctorum. A series of quaintly shaped rooms meet your eye, the walls of which are closely covered by weapons of every shape and age, inlaid with gold, silver, or ivory ; while bahuts of sculptured ebony, chairs of ancient oak, tables of Pompeian bronze well-nigh fill every spot. These rare treasures are flecked by patches of purple and crimson light, which stream in through ancient stained-glass windows. The contents of the glass cases which cover the tables would require the pen of a catalogue writer to detail. Relics from Etruria, vases from Greece, jades from China, armour worn by the old Capetian kings, instruments of tor- ture occupy the larger ones against the walls ; but in the smaller cases is a collection of cinquecento jewellery and onyx, chalcedony, sardonyx, and cornelian cameos, unrivalled for beauty of workmanship and intrinsic value in any public museum. The cameos are mounted in gold boxes, and many of them have been the property of crowned heads. One, the sight of which would make an amateur of cameos break the tenth commandment, is marvellous, consisting of a scene from Greek mythology, carved under a trellis -work, both layers of work being cut in the same stone. Among the relics of the middle ages is the poire d'angoisse (choke pear or gag), which, once inserted into the mouth, distended by means of a secret spring till the victim was strangled in excruciating but mute agony. Among the Indian curiosities is a single grain of rice, which, seen through a powerful mag- nifying-glass, you perceive to be the carved image of an Indian god seated in a pagoda ; next to this lies a cherry stone, on which a whole Indian battle, warriors, horses, etc., are carved ; a coloured alto-relievo of Judith and Holo- fernes, a foot and a half in height, carved on a single hippopotamus's bone ; Marie Antoinette's bagpipes, on which she and her ladies used to play at Trianon, disguised as shepherdesses — it is still covered with faded green silk and trimmed with rose-coloured knots ; a hurdy-gurdy bearing the lilies of France, once the property of Catherine de COLLECTION 91 Medicis ; a game of goose with the cypher and crown of Louis XV. ; a cabinet of medals, exquisitely inlaid with ivory, brought from Italy by Cardinal Mazarin, and given by him to Anne of Austria, her initials and crown inlaid over each lock in its numerous drawers. There still exist ninety gold and silver Roman medals ; a few of the original collection are missing. I specially admired a dagger and powder pouch in carved ivory lying in a splendid velvet box. M. le Car- pen tier then told me that during the revolution of 1830 he had felt somewhat nervous lest the value of his collection should attract the cupidity of the lawless mob which roamed about the streets for so many days. One night, at a very late hour, he heard loud and sudden knocking. With infinite precaution he opened the street door. An old man, evidently much agitated, entered, and showing the case of splendid ivory carvings I had remarked, told him they had belonged to the great Emperor, and asked him to purchase them at once. On M. le Carpentier requesting him to leave the box till the next day, he said, " I am a duke ; I have lost every- thing. I want money to-night, but I shall return and buy them back if affairs settle." The generous collectionneur at once gave him the sum he had asked, and has never heard of him since. Another touching anecdote is attached to a nugget of gold, the first ever brought from California to Europe. Twenty-eight years ago a poor invalid presented himself, and, taking out of his tattered coat an enormous block of quartz, asked M. le Carpentier if he would purchase it, assuring him it was full of gold. The first thought that struck the antiquary was that the man was insane. " I am not mad," he said ; " I have come to ask you to apply to Government to give me a vessel and crew of a hundred men, and I promise to return with a cargo of gold." M. le Car- pentier, confirmed in his original impression, insisted on the poor man eating, and in exchange for a small piece of the quartz he gave him a napoleon, telling him he might return whenever he pleased. The poor man never reappeared. Meanwhile M. le Carpentier had the fragment analysed, and 92 CALIFORNIAN GOLD to his amazement it proved to contain pure gold. Fifteen years elapsed ; a parcel and a letter were left at his door ; the parcel, wrapped in an old handkerchief, was heavy. The letter was worn and almost illegible. On deciphering it it proved to be the dying statement of the poor traveller, and, through the neglect of the lodging-house keeper at which house he had died a few days after his interview with M. le Carpentier, had never been delivered. The packet, I need not say, contained the block of quartz. The letter was thus worded, " You alone listened to me ; you alone stretched out a helping hand to me. Alas, it was too late ! I am dying. I bequeath my secret to you. The country whence I brought this gold is called California ! " To describe the effect of re- ceiving this by a mere act of neglect fifteen years too late is impossible. The magic of that name was utterly un- known at the time of the incident, and the poor sailor who brought the first specimen of Californian gold actually died of want. The- Comtesse de Civry has lost her trial, her marriage with a French subject having made her amenable to French law, by which her father, the Duke of Brunswick, is not compelled to support a child not born in wedlock. The fact of the Duke having taken up his residence in Holland will prevent her pursuing her claim at Brunswick. June igth. English visitors to this city, whilst smoking a cigar or sipping cafi on the boulevards, must have remarked a poorly dressed man hanging about, watching the smokers with anxiety — but his object may not have struck them. These men have invented a new trade, and manage thereby to eke out a livelihood. They carefully gather all the cigar-ends they can collect, and take them to an estaminet behind the Porte Saint-Martin, which has the following curious motto on its ensign, " Au tabac gratis k discretion," underneath which is the information, addressed to the public in general, that any person taking a glass of wine in this establishment has the LA ROQUETTE 93 privilege of smoking any amount of tobacco gratis, the tobacco being the chopped cigar-ends of the Paris population carefully ground and sifted. June 20th. The Empress spent four hours yesterday at La Roquette, the prison for juvenile offenders. Her Majesty arrived at half-past nine, attended by the Minister of the Interior, M. de Lavalette, and the Comtesse de Labddoyere, Lady-in- Waiting. No previous intimation of the visit having reached the establishment, it took the governors completely by sur- prise. The Empress insisted not only on seeing the infirm- ary and chapel, but inspected five hundred cells, interrogating many of the prisoners separately, drawing from them the history of their past lives and the details of the crimes for which they were incarcerated with such touching kindness that when she arose to quit the salle, where the young prisoners had been allowed to assemble at her request, several of them burst into tears, and literally sobbed with emotion as she took leave of them. Those who were present say that the Empress herself was so much affected that she could not address them as she intended, but her private con- versation with each must necessarily have left a deeper impression than any speech would have done. The carriage drove out of the yard at half-past one. The prison itself has the appearance of a feudal castle, consisting of a hexagonal pile with circular turrets at the angles, from each of which wings converge to a circular one in the centre. The offenders, all under the age of sixteen, are detained here for the purpose of correctional education, which is carried on till their twentieth year. Nothing can exceed the monotony of the system to which they are subjected, each young convict being perpetually confined to his cell, except when taken to the chapel or granted one hour's exer- cise in one of the six interior courts. Twelve trades are taught to the inmates. Each cell is the boy's workshop as well as his bedroom, and while he is at work a grated window 94 HORSES AND CARRIAGES in his door is left open in order that he may listen to a monitor who stands in the passage and dictates in a loud voice. The names of the boys are not even known to the overseers, who call them by the number of the cell they occupy. The prison contains five hundred offenders at this moment ; their cost is 38,000 f. per year. The result of this cellular education is very inferior to that of the farm- house system at Mettray. This colony is lodged in twelve separate houses, each of which accommodates twenty-five individuals, under the care of a chef, and the three hundred offenders are employed in agricultural pursuits, being also instructed in the rudiments of chemistry and natural science, so that, on the term of their sentence expiring, they are returned to their families with a practical knowledge of farming, which renders them valuable members of society. The best proof of the advantage of the Mettray system is the fact that, although the farms are not enclosed by walls or watched by sentinels, during the year 1864 not a single inmate attempted to escape. June 2'jth. The upper ten thousand have left Paris for their chateaux, or Trouville, Dieppe, Arcachon, Etretat, or some of the in- numerable bathing-places so rapidly springing into notice. The few who are still in town are detained in consequence of the prorogation of both the Senate and Corps L^gislatif. These are no longer to be met on the Champs Elys6es between five and six ; they drive to the Bois after dinner, and, notwithstanding the brilliant illuminations on the lake, even Mr. Chadwick's black horses, which created so great a sensation at Longchamps, are difficult to distinguish. Some of the equipages which crowd the drive having been in Paris all the season, one recognises them at once : for instance, M. Bejot's four-in-hand, from the great height of his horses, seventeen hands at least, and their peculiar high action. M. Bejot's hunting stables are worth seeing ; he has a chestnut mare which was the envy of all the meet at IN THE BOIS 95 Chantilly last season. The Duke de Mouchy, chevalier des dames par excellence, drives a victoria. His coachman is English ; his horses a pair of dark bays, so perfect in shape and slight in their limbs they are mistaken for thoroughbreds. The harness is London make, the " M " surmounted by a ducal coronet and encircled by the motto in exquisitely chased silver. The whole turn-out is perfect. Madame Davillier, daughter of gallant old Marshal de Saint Jean, is one of the few ladies who drives herself, and right well she handles the ribbons. Her little basket carriage and pair are as well turned out even as those of her formidable rivals in the science of driving, whose splendid turns-out lead the ignorant to imagine their owners to be Grand Duchesses, or at least Queens retired from business. M. Talleyrand P6rigord, as the Faubourg St. Germain persists in calling the Duke de Montmorency, has a trotting pony, which he drives in his victoria at a pace that is amazing. Naturally, riding in the dark is not possible, there- fore the ladies have started a new fashion since the hot weather set in, and go early in the morning. Princess de Bauffre- mont on a dark bay mare, the Duchess of Fitzjames and her two sons, Baronness Lejeune, Countess de Baulaincourt Baroness de Pierre and Baroness Saint Didier may be seen almost every morning enjoying a canter in the shady alleys of the Bois, riding better than any women in France, capitally mounted, and dressed as ladies ought to dress on horseback. Du reste, each and all I have mentioned ride to hounds, and manage their hunters as well and as gracefully as they do their park hacks, as anyone who hunted last season the Touraine and Anjou country can testify. Balls and soirees are things of the past. The few of the great world who are yet in town have even given up their weekly receptions. Her Majesty remarked on the cricket-ground, as an apology for not taking some strawberries offered to her, it is really too hot to eat, uttered, by the way, with a perfect English accent ; it is really too hot either to receive or to go to your friends' receptions. Meanwhile the great world 96 GLADIATOR must do something, therefore the lion of the season receives, and very select company too. In fact, I only wish he had sent me an invitation. No less a personage than Gladiator has been at home at five o'clock every afternoon at his stables. Avenue de la Faisanderie, to those whom his master, Count Frederic de Lagrange, distinguished by an invitation. His first levie was attended by the whole Corps L^gislatif, who were admitted to his box in rotation. Gladiator being a staunch supporter of the Government, since His Majesty's friendly visit to him, is said to have kicked at the Opposition. He is now, as you are aware, at Newmarket. A well-known sporting character has offered two hundred napol6ons to any- one who would procure for him as many hairs of Gladiator's tail as would make him a ring. July lyth. The publisher J. Rothschild publishes this day the biography of no less illustrious a personage than Gladiator, accom- panied by the history of Count de Lagrange's breeding stables at his Chateau Dangu, in the Vexin. The author of this work, M. Louis Dumagy, is one of the best authorities on all matters connected with the Turf, and writes better than many of the literary gentlemen whose names are sent up by our Soci6t6 des Gens de Lettres for the Legion d'Honneur. The book is excessively amusing, and I trans- late the following curious details as to the origin of Glad- iator : — " The birth of Gladiator was by no means trusted to chance. The Count de Lagrange had remarked that the blood of Miss Gladiator and that of Monarch had already produced admirable results, and wished to increase the specimens he possessed of this breed. The illustrious Monarch, however, was capricious, and showed an indiffer- ence to the attractions of Miss Gladiator which it was necessary to deceive. His imperious Majesty's eyes were bandaged, and the celebrated stallion became as blind as love itself — and thus was the great Gladiator created." FEMALE ATTIRE 97 July igth. Dentu sells two thousand copies per day of M. Dupin's pamphlet on the extravagances of female attire. Notwith- standing which I doubt that next winter we shall see the queens of fashion less sumptuously attired than when they last floated by in their luxurious barouches d la Daumont, half sunk beneath clouds of lace, worth the purchase money of an estate. Who can say, however? The tiny pamphlet may work a revolution, and our fair duchesses return from their chateaux arrayed as simply as the shepherdesses of Trianon, who managed all the same to look bewitchingly lovely, in spite of their chintz costumes and muslin fichus. But they were high-born ladies, who needed no lavish ex- penditure to advertise their rank, whereas M. Dupin truly remarks, the wearers of toilettes which ruin honest, hard- working husbands and compromise the morality of wives are, in nine cases out of ten, nouveaux enrichis, who lower themselves, and show a base spirit of servility in aping the dissolute manners and the squandering habits of the worst days of the Regency. Prince Esterhazy, writes a correspondent from Vienna, has managed to ruin himself. In his case this proves talent. His Highness's income amounts to ;£^200,ooo per annum. There is an execution of the estates, the debts amounting to the trifling sum of two million sterling, plus ;^50,ooo. The odd ;^SO,ooo come in at the end as a mere item, or, as the French more expressively say, un ditail. Prince Esterhazy is one of the five great landlords of Europe. Prince de Piombino is his rival in Italy, the Due d'Ossuna in Spain, the Marquis d'Aligre in France, who, by-the-by, has done his best to dis- inherit his daughter. That lady's estates, however, extend over some twenty thousand hectares, to say nothing of her chiteaux, hotels, and houses in Paris and elsewhere. H 98 STRANGERS IN THE BOIS July 2,},rd. Between seven and eight the Bois de Boulogne is almost deserted, as at that moment Paris is at dinner. Few at that time are the wanderers by the edge of that loveliest of all artificial lakes, which, with its island, rustic bridge, and headlands, mimics nature with provoking accuracy. Some, however, there always are, and the curiosity of these has been latterly excited by the appearance of a huge landau, drawn by a pair of respectable old steeds, whose pace does not precisely rival that of Gladiator. The coachman has likewise a superannuated aspect, and suggests the idea that he and his equipage flourished half a century ago. By the side of the venerable Jehu, a negro, in true oriental costume, may be seen. But the peculiarity of the carriage is the absence of windows, their place being filled by boards decorated with coloured arabesques, which do not quite join, so that if you are sharp, as the unwieldy vehicle turns a corner, you may catch a glance at its inmates. A mass of cream-tinted bournous is all that you will distinguish, and two pairs of exquisite eyes, almond-shaped, enshrined by lashes which rest on the cheeks of their fair possessors, and surmounted by eyebrows such as Leonardo da Vinci has given his Jaconde, and such as a due manipulation of the pinceau sepia gives our Paris beauties. The elder lady, aetat fourteen, occupies the back seat ; her younger rival reclines on velvet cushions in the front of the carriage. All this is not easy to see, for the Emir Abd-el-Kader's wives utter a shrill cry if they perceive you, and the carriage instantly dis- appears with a rapidity one could scarcely believe possible, seeing its cumbrous and antiquated form. July 2^l/i. Several of the newspapers have commented severely on the very primitive costume adopted by English bathers at Margate and Brighton, Their revelations on the subject BATHING-DRESSES 99 were, of course, eagerly read in Paris. I must say that any person attempting to bathe either on the French coast or in any French river after this fashion runs the risk of being taken up by two gendarmes, an instance of which happened to come under my knowledge lately in the case of an English gentleman. To the writers of the articles I allude to I recommend the perusal of an arrite issued last week by the Mayor of Croissy, a bathing-place on the coast, whereby no man or boy is allowed to enter the sea without a complete suit. Hitherto a set of nether garments is all that the law, by Act of Louis Philippe, has insisted on. M. Sosth^ne de la Rochefoucauld, who, as Director of the Opera under Charles X., enforced the necessity of ballet dancers wearing inexpressibles, and the King of Prussia who issued a decree that every statue in his garden was to be attired in a uniform, cannot compete with the delicate susceptibility of the Mayor of Croissy. Imagination cannot picture what the feelings of his worship would be were he transported to the beach of Margate. August 6th. A curious discovery, which excites immense curiosity in the literary world, has been made by the proprietor of a curiosity shop in the Rue de Grenelle. It is nothing less than seventeen autograph letters of Cardinal Richelieu, six of which are addressed to the notorious Marion Delorme. This historic treasure has been found in a piece of furniture of the time of Louis XIII., which contained a secret drawer. I have just had the pleasure of pursuing the lecture " Mrs. Grundy," an inhabitant of New York, has thought fit to administer to me for having dared to describe the equipages and horses which were to be seen during the season in the Bois de Boulogne. If the good lady could only pay a visit to Paris at this moment, it would rejoice her heart to witness the present aspect of the Champs Elys^es. Her feelings would not be hurt by the sight of any splendid carriages, thoroughbred horses, or by any princes " tooling " their own lOO PLEBEIANS AND PATRICIANS drags ; neither by the Emperor driving his own Amdricaine, or the Emir reclining in one of the Court barouches. Mrs. Grundy would find, on the contrary, crowds of light-hearted loungers, ouvrieres en blouses, grisettes, and soldiers. She might, a son aise, indulge in a drive through the Bois in a cab, or, if that were too aristocratic a conveyance, the lady might fear- lessly enter an omnibus or even a washerwoman's cart if it better pleased her so to do, and thus exhibit her shawl and coal-scuttle bonnet. She will even find me, in spite of the aristocratic sympathies of which she accuses me, happy to show her the mountebanks at the barriers, and even treat her to a glass of Biere de Strasbourg. Having proved to Mrs. Grundy that I am a mere plebeian, and more so than even herself, inasmuch as she turns her back to her readers, I shall once more risk her anger by giving a curious detail of one of the upper ten thousand, who boasts of being descended in direct line from Adam's third son Seth. I refer to the family of Crony Chanel, who claims the title of Marquis d'Este, usurped for the last few centuries by the Dukes of Modena. They state that at the time of the deluge Noah took their family title-deeds into the ark. At their chateau may be seen a picture of that event, wherein one of the drowning men waves a scroll above his head, on which is inscribed, " Dieu tout Puissant, sauvez les titres de la maison de Crony." August "jth. Let me mention, for the benefit of lovers of the marvellous on the stage, a piece called Le Diluge, which fills the theatre with a dense throng of enthusiastic spectators. Palaces of Babylonish magnificence are burnt by roseate fire, Chaldean plains covered by tents and flocks of sheep are submerged beneath the avenging floods. The ark in the course of con- struction is, however, in imminent peril of being altogether abandoned in consequence of a strike among Noah's work- men, who demand an increase of wages, and threaten to desert to the heathen priest Cleophas. Noah holds out, EPIDEMICS loi and will not yield to the clamorous call for more gold. He and his three sons have but five days before them to com- plete the ark, yet fearlessly set about the gigantic task, relying on the proverb, "Aide-toi et le ciel t'aidera" (Help yourself, and heaven will assist you), which is realised in this instance by a host of angels who obligingly descend and finish the job. This idea has, of course, been suggested by Murillo's picture, which we have all admired at the Louvre, called " La Cuisine des Anges," representing the unexpected arrival at a Spanish monastery of two of the king's inspectors of convents, and the despair of the good monks in consequence of the denuded state of their larder, from which they are miraculously relieved by a flight of the loveliest of angels, who set about peeling carrots and roasting mutton with as much agility as if they had graduated under Soyer or Brillat-Savarin. August 2^ih. One of the characteristic traits of the age is the periodical occurrence of a mania of one kind or another. A book, and a very interesting one too, could be written on these peculiar epidemics, which exhibit themselves again and again at longer and shorter intervals. A few years ago grey-haired people as well as little children were seized with the stampomania, and then our most secret drawers, our most private papers, our most loving letters of bygone years were ransacked by our best friends in search of queens', emperors', and presi- dents' heads, all the more valuable if those whose name they bore had departed this life. Then came the crestomania, then the potichomania, which consisted in converting plain glass jars into magnificent specimens of porcelain and pottery ware. This last mania assumed a still more virulent craze when decalcomania was ushered into the world. The fair sex was more especially affected by this mental epidemic, and so entirely did it get possession of them that, for a while, nothing took so amazingly at shops, fancy fairs, and bazaars as did the samples of this home-made mimicry of the costly I02 DUBRONIMANIA wares of Sevres and Dresden. But decalcomania, like other manias that have gone before it, speedily ran its course, and has in Paris, at least, given way to the stronger attractions of a more scientific and important novelty — termed the Dubroni- mania. You will naturally ask what I mean by this outlandish expression. Dubroni is the name of a young and most promising engineer, a pupil of the Ecole Polytechnique. Laid up for several years with bad health, his mind remained as active as ever. Amidst the most intense bodily sufferings, he applied himself, night and day, to the study and perfection of photography, hoping to initiate the masses into its mys- teries by simplifying the manipulations and turning photo- graphy into a drawing-room amusement within the reach, of every purse. In this Dubroni appears to have been quite successful, inasmuch as his ingenious apparatus entirely does away with the necessity of an operating chamber. You have no longer to dread any stains or spots on your dress or hands, as the chemical operations are all accomplished with the pipette, a small instrument by means of which you can intro- duce into the camera obscura, through a little orifice, the different chemical baths which the plate must undergo previous to its bearing a picture. Dubroni, after having pursued his experiments with unabated ardour, is certainly entitled to the honour of attaching his name to the science of photography. Another distinguishing feature of his liliputian apparatus is the readiness with which it can be set up for use and repacked in a box which does not exceed in size that of a lady's writing-desk. Among the notabilities who are amusing themselves during their summer vacations with the appareil Dubroni are the well-known diplomatists Marquis de la Valette, M. de Persigny, and no less a person- age than Prince Napoleon himself. August lofh. Last Sunday the little village of Villers-Bocage, near Caen, was early astir, bedecked with streamers, flags, and garlands, in honour of the inauguration of the statue of their RICHARD LENOIR 103 great compatriot, Richard Lenoir. Born in 1765, of humble parents, he graduated in the school of privation and hard- ship. As early as twelve years of age young Lenoir evinced a marked disposition for trade, and succeeded in rearing pigeons and dogs, which he sold on market-days at Villers- Bocage. At seventeen he left his home, with twelve francs in his purse, and walked to Rouen, where he made enough to pay his way to Paris. The first year he amassed forty pounds by the sale of common delft ; by the end of the second he found himself the possessor of a thousand pounds. He then hired a large shop and started in business ; but the Reign of Terror had commenced, therefore he returned to his family and liberally contributed to the support of his old parents. In two months, however, he went back to Paris, and, associating himself with a partner, made one loan of ;£'i20, on which they realised a clear profit of ;£'4,40O (i 12,000 f.) At this period it first occurred to Lenoir to enter on the manufacture of cotton goods, which had never been done in France. He started his first loom in a back street. Rue Bellefond, which proved so remunerative that he induced the First Consul to grant him possession of a deserted con- vent. Rue de Charonne, which he converted into a cotton factory. From that epoch his prosperity steadily increased ; Lenoir cleared ;^i,700 per month. He then established cotton factories at Alen9on, Caen, L'Aigle, and Chantilly, which gave employment to above 20,000 hands, and by which he realised no less than ;£'48,ooo a year (12,000,000 f). The duties on cotton introduced in 1810 ruined him. In vain the Emperor lent him ;^6o,ooo. Lenoir never re- covered his former wealth, and died in the year 1840 in com- parative poverty. September \st. The last literary gossip is that M. Thiers has just sold his History of Florence to his publisher for ;^20,ooo. M. Ernest Renan has completed his Vie de Saint Paul. He breakfasts (in English read " lunches ") once a week at the well-known I04 A WAR OFFICE ENTOMOLOGIST Restaurateur Magny, with a somewhat mixed company of his friends, M. Edmond About, Messieurs de Goncourt, etc. The other day their host, while relating his late voyage to the East, remarked that he had been unable to land at Patmos, in consequence of a frightful hurricane. " Well," exclaimed Barbey d'Aurdvilly, " he could not land at Patmos ! No wonder ; it was the storm of the Apocalypse and Saint John himself I'a repoussi'.' On entering the hall at the exhibition of useful and noxious insects, held in the Palais de I'lndustrie, my atten- tion was attracted by a landscape which I thought must be due to the brush of Corot or Isabey. On a closer investiga- tion, however, I perceived to my amazement that it had been entirely worked out by the application of myriads of insects, the various lights and shades of the scene being given by the variegated hues of insects selected from every tribe on account of their appropriate colouring. The details of this picture have just been published. Ento- mology appears to have been for years past the favourite study of M. M , clerk at the War Office. As the classification of his insects proceeded their varied tints struck him, and the idea occurred to him of utilising their different hues for the reproduction of a favourite view of his native village. He possessed 45,000 of the Coleoptera ; with these he painted his foreground. He had almost as great a number as 4,000 varieties of the insect tribe, which supplied every tone requisite for his landscape, and certainly his four years of patient labour has been rewarded by wonderful success, considering the peculiar nature of the materials. September yd. From the south we have a most interesting report of the inauguration of Frangois Arago's statue in his native town of Estagel. To honour the ceremony there arrived savants from Germany, England, Italy, and Spain. The pr^fet of the department. General Renault, President of the Council, ARAGO'S STATUE 105 the General of the district, and a formidable array of func- tionaries, mayors, and county notabilities came at an early hour to witness the ceremony of unveiling the statue and to listen to the speeches pronounced on the occasion by the French railway king, M. P^reire ; by the President of the Academy of Science, M. Bertrand ; and, as representative of the Ecole Polytechnique, by M. Michel Chevalier. M, Pdreire, before entering on the life of the great Arago, passed a splendid encomium on Michel Chevalier, whom he designated as one of the masters of economic science, whose life had been devoted to commercial liberty and to the benefit of the working classes. M. Pdreire reminded his audience that as early as 1831 young M. Chevalier had traced the network of railroads which now covers the face of Europe, and he decided all should have a common terminus — the coast of the Mediterranean. This plan, carried into execution by M. P6reire and his brother, is now realised and in active operation. He then spoke of Arago, and told of his early start on the road to scientific distinction. A pupil of the Ecole Polytechnique, Arago at once entered the Bureau des Longitudes, and at twenty-three was named member of the institute. An enthusiastic student of pure science, he early devoted himself to its practical applica- tion. Thus it was he who first demonstrated the utility of paratonnerres, and first discovered magnetism by electric currents, which is nothing less than the first principle of the telegraph. Arago and his friend Fresnel took a leading part in establishing the system of concave reflectors and convex lenses, which have proved so invaluable for light- houses, and so great a blessing to sailors. Arago perfected the compass and many other equally useful inventions. The special object of his life, however, was to popularise science, which, in his estimation, rose in importance far above litera- ture. Well I remember in my college days the celebrated debate on the draft of a Bill for secondary instruction which M. Guizot laid before the Chambers in February, 1836. The debate lasted fifteen days, the subject of discussion being io6 EULER'S PRESCRIPTION whether the programme of public education was to be altered, and, if so, was science or literature to be the pre- dominant study of future generations? M. de Sade and M. de Lamartine spoke in favour of literary studies, while MM. de Tracy and Arago pleaded the superior value of scientific acquirements. The magnificent oration of M. Arago was read to us in college by our professors, and well I re- member the following anecdote making a lasting impression on our memories. M. Arago craved the permission of the Chambers to refer to an incident in the life of the great Euler. " Euler," he said, " was eminently pious. One Sunday afternoon a celebrated preacher of one of the Berlin churches said to him : ' Alas ! the cause of religious truth is lost. Faith no longer exists. Would you believe it ? ' said the preacher — ' I pictured creation in all its poetry, in all its marvellous beauty. I quoted the Bible itself Half my audience slept ; the others left the church.' ' Try the follow- ing experiment,' said Euler. ' Instead of quoting Greek philosophers to convey an idea of the vastness of creation, tell your audience of the facts science reveals to us. Tell them that the sun is one million two hundred thousand times greater than our earth. Tell them that the planets are worlds ; that Jupiter is fourteen hundred times larger than our earth ; describe the wonders of Saturn's ring. Tell them of the stars, and convey an idea of their distance by the scale of light. Tell them it traverses eighty thousand leagues per second. Tell them that there exists not a star whose light reaches us in less than three years ; that from several the light only attains our hemisphere in thirty years : and from positive facts pass on to the great probabilities of scientific discovery. Say, for instance, that certain stars might be visible millions of years after their annihilation, because the light they emit requires several millions of years to reach our earth, etc' Next Sunday the great Euler awaited his friend's arrival with impatience. He came, but depressed and profoundly afflicted. 'What,' exclaimed Euler — ' what has happened ? ' 'Ah,' replied his friend, ' I am THE DAVENPORT BROTHERS 107 most unfortunate. My congregation forgot the respect due to God's holy temple — they cheered me ! ' " Arago only entered the political arena at the age of forty-four. His speeches on electoral reform, the precursor of universal suffrage ; on public instruction, in which he dwells on the superior utility of the knowledge of living languages over mere classic studies, have never been forgotten. In 1848, as Minister of Marine, he marked his brief possession of power by the abolition of slavery in all the French colonies. M. Pdreire concluded his speech by recalling the remark of Arago himself in his speech on universal suffrage — that the title-deeds by which the French people had acquired a right to a voice in the government of the nation were the names of Rousseau, Fourier, Moliere, Mass^na, Kleber, Marceau, each and all sons of artisans or labourers. September "jth. A fortnight has scarcely elapsed since the two Davenport Brothers, having recourse to a most efficacious medium by the press, announced their intention of edifying the Parisian public by an evocation of spirits. This announcement ex- cited considerable curiosity, and people of notoriety in the world of letters and of science rushed to investigate the phenomena produced by these charlatans. Many besides were the good, simple souls who exulted at the very idea of hearing the sound of guitars, violins, and harps without the intervention of earthly fingers ; and no doubt the lessee of the Grand Opera must have rejoiced at the prospect thus held out to him of being able, in case of a new strike among his present band, to form an orchestra of spirits. I have seen people who have left the Davenport soirees in the highest glee at having been favoured with blinks and winks, squeezes of hands and slaps on the back, vouchsafed to them from the trans-mortuary world. I must add that some of the best papers of the day, of established reputation and of extensive influence and circulation, instead of " showing up " io8 M. ROBIN'S CHALLENGE this flagrant charlatanism, have given their adhesion to these mysterious apparitions, and have thus contributed to their scandalous trickeries. Their reign here has, however, not been of very long duration. It only required the acute intelligence of one man to lay bare the fraud. Robin, whose interesting scientific soirees were so much resorted to last winter and spring, at once detected the imposition, and revealed the tricks in a very clever letter published in the Union of this morning. I need not describe the trick. M. Robin acknowledges that it is performed with matchless skill. He concludes by saying, " I defy the brothers to repeat their tricks in my own theatre, which I place at their dis- posal, and the product of their seance I shall hand over to the governors of the Charenton Asylum (for lunatics). I lay down three conditions. The first is that I bind the brothers my- self. I stipulate that I be tied with them in their own press, and I further undertake to supply the place of their five attendants." If the Davenport Brothers are wise they will accept this challenge. Yet, in spite of M. Robin's revela- tions, the taste for spiritual manifestations is so great in this ■ country that, however grossly material, however disgustingly human, however mixed with fanatical ignorance, arrogance, and presumption, they are not likely as yet to be hissed down, and we may expect to hear of scores of people turn- ing crazy about the Davenport exhibition, as they have on table-turning and spirit-rapping. I happened myself last season to be present at a party given by English residents in Paris, where a nobleman who for many years wrote " M.P." after his name gravely discussed a pencilled message he had received the previous evening through a medium from the departed soul of the late Duke de Morny, with whom the late M.P. for had been on terms of intimacy. The Petit Journal gives us some curious details of an inci- dent which took place at the recent execution of a man named Picot at Marseilles. The unfortunate criminal ascended the scaffold, followed by four men enveloped in long robes of coarse, tan-coloured canvas, their features concealed by hoods THE MISERICORDIA 109 of the same material, in which two small apertures were made to enable them to see their way. The Marseilles population made way for them in respectful silence, recog- nising at once these men as members of a brotherhood who are bound by oath to perform the most menial services for the poor, and specially devote themselves to attend on the condemned and bury their remains. The evening before an execution the members of this brotherhood, sprung from every class of society, meet in conclave and draw lots as to which among them are on the following morning to take possession of the scaffold — for when the executioner and his assistants have accomplished their bloody work they retire immediately. The prior of the community first recites the words, "There is no longer a criminal here, but the mortal remains of a man, created in the image of God, whom we are about to inter." The four brothers respond " Amen," ascend the scaffold, undo the straps by which the body has been bound to the bascule, place it on a white cloth, join the head to the trunk, and, having made a deep bed of bran and straw, proceed to sew up the corners of the winding sheet and place the body in the bier they have brought for the purpose. They then carry it to the cemetery, where the almoner, whose office it has been to attend the criminal in his last moments, reads the service of the dead. General de Damas, peer of France and Minister of War during the Restoration, was one of the confraternity, and his stall in their chapel happened to be next to that of Father Jerome, a poor street crossing-sweeper. The vow is often made during a time of peculiar affliction, or at a moment of imminent danger. Once made, however, it is religiously kept. September ?>tk. M. Robin published last night the reply of the Brothers Davenport to his challenge. They accept it, making their own terms, however, which are as follows : They require M. Robin to deposit a sum of ;^400 (10,000 f,), and under- no JEAN ALTHEN take on their part to do likewise. The experiments are to take place in the presence of twenty witnesses. They require M. Robin to perform precisely the same manoeuvres that they will go through in the presence of the above number of persons, to make use of their cords, press, and instruments, and to accomplish the same feats in the same space of time that they have taken. In case of M. Robin producing similar results the ;^400 deposited by the brothers will be handed over to him ; in the case of his failure, however, the Daven- port Brothers will claim the ;£'40O paid by M. Robin. Towards the end of the last century a poor man returned from Persia to his native village, bringing with him some seed, which he craved the permission of a farmer to plant in a corner of his farm. His work accomplished, misery and starvation drove him to seek for shelter in the hospital, where he died. His name was Jean Althen, but who he was and what had taken him to Persia none knew or cared to inquire. After his death, however, the cultivation of madder transformed vast marshes and waste lands into valuable property, and in a few years the whole of the south of France discovered that a new source of wealth had been suddenly opened up. Avignon has not forgotten the humble peasant to whom France owes the introduction of this valuable dye, and has decreed a statue to the memory of Jean Althen. September lotk. That most graceful and imaginative of artists, Gustave Dord, is on a visit to the great bibliophile, M. Mame, whose magnificent edition of the Bible is to be illustrated by the creative fancy of his guest at the rate of no less a sum than 200,000 f. (;£'8,ooo). September 14th. The scene of last night at the Salle Herz during the stance of the Davenport Brothers defies description. M. le Due de and another gentleman were accepted by the crowd THE DAVENPORT FIASCO in of spectators as umpires. However, their interference was not required, as a civil engineer who happened to be present, following the lead of M. Robin, the conjurer, who had on Monday night so successfully imitated their mysteries, discovered that the iron bar to which the brothers were so firmly bound was movable by means of a spring which at once set them free. Upon this being revealed the row that ensued was frightful. The crowd rushed towards the press, from which the brothers had evaporated with the agility which no doubt is the attribute of spirit agents. Hisses, shouts, and cries of vengeance rent the air ; police poured into the salle, and only succeeded in restoring order by assuring those present that their money would be returned to them. Thanks, therefore, to M. Robin, the scientific conjurer, so remarkable for the acuteness of his intelligence and the accuracy of his judgment, this huge sham has been unmasked. The bubble of the hour has burst, and not even M. Delamarre in the columns of the Patrie will succeed in making the Parisian public believers in the manifestations of disembodied intelligences as revealed in the persons of the Messrs. Davenport. No rational person present at this humiliating exposure could suppress the feelings of pity and contempt that alternately rose in his mind. What has become of the wretched impostors does not appear. September lyth. AW gourmets know Chevet's windows in the Palais Royal, and remember the display of birds' nests from China, ortolans from Italy, truffles from Perigord, and pdt^s de foie gras from Strasbourg, which have fascinated their gaze each time they passed its savoury precincts. Yesterday a mush- room weighing no less than 14 lbs. occupied the centre of the ^talage. It belongs to the species called by the lugu- brious epithet of " TSte de Mort." " Death's Head" is certainly not an encouraging name to append to an edible, but the resemblance this monster specimen bears to a human skull explains its selection. The woods of Vincennes produced this king of all the mushrooms. 112 SPIRITUALISTS' SEANCES September \%th. In spite of the signal failure of the Davenport tricks, public attention in Paris appears to be once more attracted towards spiritism. The Journal de Rouen, a most sensible paper to my idea, strongly urges the medical men of France to interfere and point out the dangers attending the evoca- tion of spirits. I have already informed you of the existence in this city of more than fifty thousand believers in spiritual- ism, of whom the high priest is Alan Karder, whose sundry publications and weekly paper have a wide circulation. It is a known fact, and one which has lately been demonstrated before the Academie de Medicine, that cases of mental alienation have increased twenty-one per cent, since the importation from America of this new belief. In one small country town it has been proved that no less than fifty-five women have become so perfectly mad after attending one seance held by a celebrated spirit evoker that they were transferred within a few days of its taking place to a lunatic asylum. Secret meetings are still going on, to which the initiated and believing are alone invited by special favour of the spiritual high priests ; not gratis, however. It is curious to remark how the love of filthy lucre extends even to the unseen world of the departed. Their souls only consent to reply to the summons of their brethren at the rate of thirty francs per ticket. I am further instructed that these dis- embodied intelligences require the protection of no less than fourteen sergents-de-ville, who mount guard over their manifestations in the adjoining department. That the Pr6fet de Police should adopt this preventive measure is but natural considering the row of last Tuesday. Yet the sanction thus granted by Government is a tacit encouragement to charlatanism in its most dangerous form and a most humili- ating one for rational minds. At a moment when neither Thiers nor Pelletan, Berryer nor Jules Favre would be allowed to address twenty-five persons on any subject, whether BISMARCK AS DAVENPORT 113 political or literary, we see Government extending its pro- tecting aegis over a pair of quacks, and allowing full liberty to the emancipation of coats, guitars, tambourines, flutes, etc. As most justly, writes the Temps, M. le Prdfet de Police would only send his emissaries to a republican meeting to close the doors of the building in which it was held and arrest its orators. True it is that the fooleries of the Messieurs Davenport do not endanger the State, still, they do the human intellect. They can only lead to the mental aberra- tion of weak intellects. That Government should ignore their existence one can understand and approve, but that it should actually protect, or even appear to protect them, is rather too much of a good joke. If we were floating on a sea of liberty we should make no remark. But when we have witnessed the fruitless efforts of eminent men, of members of the Institute even, to obtain permission to give lectures on subjects utterly disconnected with politics, when we know by bitter experience what our liberty of the press amounts to, we do maintain it to be monstrous that this grotesque superstition should flourish under the protection of armed authority. September igtk. By-the-by, the Charivari of this morning publishes a most amusing article, in which it compares the Davenport Brothers to M. de Bismarck, the latter boasting of being able to perform quite as clever tricks provided he be left in the dark. He invites France, England, and the other European nations to be present at his performance, and then blows the candles out ; whereupon England complains of having received a slap on the cheek and a kick. France can't make out where they come from, the other nations think it very clever, and all join in recognising that the tricks are admirably per- formed. Poor Denmark is entirely stripped of its garments, which are found on the back of Prussia. England exclaims " Shocking ! " at the sight of the perfect nudity of Denmark. The only difference between Bismarck and the brethren is 114 DUMAS V. PREFONTAINE that the former has not been made to refund money, as the Davenports were forced to do last week. There are epochs in the world's story which are constantly revived in our memories, and of which the episodes are, as it were, re-enacted in the discussions to which they seem destined eternally to give rise. Who has not fought over the conflicting evidences as to the innocence or guilt of the fair Scottish Queen, in whose defence Why te- Melville so lately shivered a lance ? Centuries have elapsed, and yet we eagerly pursue every freshly discovered fragment that tells for or against that most fascinating mother of our luckless Stuarts. It was but the other day I read an angry polemic in an English literary paper as to the exact spot of Hampden's burial, and we have been fighting over Voltaire's empty coffin, and vainly asking what has become of his bones. The lawsuit between the representatives of the jewellers Boehmer and Bossange and the de Montmorency, heiress of the Cardinal de Rohan, as to the arrears due for the necklace which Marie Antoinette was supposed to have ordered, is fresh in the memory, it having come on last year, and final judgment having been delivered after an interval of seventy years. Once more the decapitated Royal Family of France are literally summoned to the bar, arid their slightest acts made the subject of a trial which occupies several columns of the morning papers. " La Route de Varennes — M. Alexandre Dumas versus the Heir of the Pr^fontaine Family," is the heading of this strange affair, which originates in the account given by the celebrated romance writer of the part taken by M. de Prdfontaine during the attempted flight of the Royal Family. The question is, Did the Queen descend from the carriage and enter M de Pr^fontaine's house, and there inquire the cause of delay in the relays of post- horses, or is Alexandre Dumas' statement correct that on the Queen's alighting M. de Prdfontaine closed the doors of his house, which called forth from Louis XVI. a reproach in which he reminded him of his double oath of fidelity to him taken as officer and as Knight of St. Louis? It will be LA ROUTE DE VARENNES 115 remembered that the berline in which the family travelled was driven by M. de Maiden disguised as coachman, and attended by M. de Valory in the dress of a courier. An escort of hussars and a relay of horses were expected at Varennes, but by one of those inexplicable fatalities which are destined to destroy accurate combinations neither the one nor the other awaited them. M. de S^ze pleads the Prdfontaine cause, and states that the grandfather of his client was a quiet country gentleman, whose family had always been attached to the Cond6s, he himself being the agent of their estates in the Clermontais ; that on the night of the 23rd June, 1791, he went in his dressing-gown and slippers to see that his hall door was securely fastened, when he heard a carriage stop, from which several persons alighted, who asked him to admit them, one of whom he recognised as the Queen. She entered a room, where she rested for a few moments, and this room has been preserved since that night in precisely the state it was in" on the night of this memorable occurrence. The court ruled that Dumas and Michel Levy publish within one month an edition of La Route de Varennes, with an extract from the pamphlet of M. de Valory, which asserts M. de Prdfontaine to have been a respectable person, whose house was a place of safety for the Royal Family, although he had not been a party to their flight, and that had it been in his power he would undoubtedly have pointed out the ford and lent horses required to cross the river of Varennes ; that, furthermore, the Queen alighted at his house, to which she was conducted by M. de Maiden, and that she rested there a few moments. Dumas and Levy will have to pay the costs, and are forbidden to sell any copies of La Route de Varennes without this explanatory note. This is by no means the first time Alexandre Dumas has been summoned to the bar by the descendants of families who consider themselves aggrieved by the part he has made their ancestors play in his novels. The Marquis d'Epinay Saint-Luc instituted a lawsuit against him in consequence of his having stated, in his romance La Dame de Monsoreau, that ii6 M. PREVOST-PARADOL'S PARROT his ancestor, Frangois d'Epinay de Saint-Luc, Grand Mattre de I'Artillerie under Henry IV., and a distinguished general, had been one of the mignons of Henry HI. The court ruled, however, that as two hundred and fifty years had elapsed since the said Frangois d'Epinay de Saint-Luc's demise, it could not undertake to protect his memory from M. Dumas' fertile pen. The youngest and latest enrolled of our academic forty is not precisely distinguished by his devotion to the actual order of things. M. Pr^vost-Paradol possesses a charming residence at Etretat, which most enjoyable of all the sea- bathing places on the coast has become a rendezvous for the literary and artistic world. His many avocations prevent his residing there constantly, but he runs down to his family whenever he can find a few days' leisure. The fetes of the 15th of August, to use a slang term, Pembitent, and to escape from their demonstrative loyalty he started by the night train of the 14th, and speedily fell asleep, to awake at the early dawn in old Normandy, and rejoice in the conviction that he was safe from mercenary cheers and paid Imperialism. Suddenly in his very ear the cry rang sharp and clear, " Vive I'Emp'r-reur!" pronounced with the peculiar rolling sound of the " r " and suppression of the second syllable, so familiar to those who have listened to the claque of a Paris mob. Our young Orleanist started. He was alone in the carriage, and the few peasants loitering about the station at which the train had stopped were evidently absorbed by their baskets of fowl or butter, intended for the up train to Paris. Was it an hallucination — a sort of nightmare, the result of the cramped position in which he had slept ? " Vive I'Emp'r- reur ! " again was shrieked. This time it was past a joke. In starting from his seat he touched a cage. The horrible fact became apparent ; his own parrot had turned Imperialist — a phenomenon subsequently explained by the confession of an intimate friend whom he had kept waiting an uncon- scionable time the previous day in his library, and who had maliciously relieved his tedium by teaching M. Paradol's parrot loyalty to his Sovereign. LES GAMMES D'OSCAR 117 September 20th. I heard of the death of Prince Joseph Bonaparte at Rome a few days ago. At the conclusion of the funeral ceremonies — that is, after the coffin of the Prince had been deposited in its appointed place in the family vault — the mattre d'hotel of the defunct walked up to the coffin and said in a grave tone, "Vostra altezza non commanda viente?" (What are Your Highness's orders?). No reply issuing from the coffin, the mattre d'kdtel backed out, and, on reaching the portico of the church, shouted to the coronetted carriages without : " Tornate a casa, sua altezza non commanda niente ! " (Home, His Highness has given no orders). The custom dates from the fifteenth century. September 21st. " La Revue " — that is, the annual review of the events of the year — at the Folies Marigny will bear the title, On dit que c'est drdle. I shall not say so, however, till I have seen the piece. The theatre itself is a charming little bonbonniere, coquettishly hidden among the bosquets of the Champs Elysdes, got up in very good taste, and altogether more attractive in its decorations than is the tone of the pieces usually performed there, which are selected for the special delectation of the shopboys and bonnes of the neighbourhood. Les Gammes d' Oscar has had an unusual run. Its utter absurdity attracts crowds every night. Oscar, the hero, is a cheese-seller desperately in love with a fair widow, who is landlady of a cafi, and whose charms fascinate her customers. The enamoured cheesemonger disguises himself as a waiter, and thus enters the service with the determination of devising a plan for sending away her admiring clients, in each of whom he sees a rival. The scheme he hits upon is ingenious. No sooner has flaneur taken his seat, called for a paper, and asked for his inevitable glass of absinthe, than Oscar, attired in the traditional snow-white apron, and brandishing his ii8 FEUILLETONS baton of office in the form of a particularly well-polished coffee-pot, approaches and sings the solfige in a cracked voice and completely out of tune. A second repetition of this scale infallibly sends the most ardent lover as far from the cafe as even Oscar can desire. Oscar honestly puts the money he concludes would have been spent by the vanishing cus- tomers out of his own purse into the till, as well as three sous that would have been handed to himself in the character of waiter into the urn destined to receive these contributions. The amazement of the fair widow when she appears equipped for conquest to take possession of her throne as the presiding divinity of the cafi, to find it utterly untenanted, and Oscar's explanatory dialogue, excites shouts of merriment among the laughter-loving soubrettes who frequent Les Folies Marigny. September 2%th. Notwithstanding the tropical heat we are enduring, les feuiHes cFautomne are beginning to fall ; and, if we are to judge by the following authentic anecdote of the literary feuilletons, they are rapidly following a like fate. M. Pessard, collaborateur of the Temps, tells us that a popular novelist offered his last romance to the editor of a paper which is to appear in a few days, to be entitled Le Soleil. The editor accepted the offer on the following conditions : the writer in question was to supply four feuilletons per week, and to receive in payment £ip (i,0CX)f.) a month. The editor of the Soleil, however, reserved to himself the right at the expiration of two months of requiring that the plot should either terminate within eight days of the notice he would issue to the author or last several weeks ! M. Pessard considers this anecdote as a curious illustration of the habits and customs of the present day. However, as he truly re- marks, the editor of the Soleil has not the honour of being the original inventor of caoutchouc novels. Give honour di. qui le droit, and if M. Delamarre, of the Patrie, has no other LES DRAMES DE PARIS 119 merit, it is only fair to acknowledge he has every right to take out a patent for the idea. The popular romance writer, Viscount Touson de Jerrail, wrote the first part of his "Drames de Paris" for the Patrie. He received an un- expected summons from M. Delamarre, and, on presenting himself, was thus accosted by his literary chief : " You must be good enough to clear out my lower story within a week " (II faut que vous me nettoyez mon rez de chaussee d'ici ^ la fin de la semaine). M. Delamarre meant by the term " rez de chaussee" the lower portion of his paper devoted to feuilletons. " But," replied Touson, " I have fifteen living personages." " That is your affair ; by the end of the week my rez de chaussie must be vacant. Invent an epidemic — do what you please ; but I must have my rez de chauss^e^" Touson vanished. During the four ensuing days he killed off fourteen personages by fire, sword, poison, drowning, etc. Meanwhile a reaction had taken place in the calculating mind of the wary editor. It was evident that " Les Drames de Paris " helped to sell his paper, and it was by no means so clear that the romance of the author to whom he had promised the space Touson occupied so remuneratively would attract so many subscribers. A second time Touson received a summons to M. Delamarre's study, but this time it was to implore him to continue " Les Drames de Paris " for one hundred more feuilletons. "But," objected Touson, " I have but a single personage left — Rocambole. You desired me to kill off all my characters within a week. How can I go on ? " " Rocambole, Rocambole," replied M. Delamarre ; " it's a good name. Write a second part." Viscount Touson de Jerrail acquiesced, and La Patrie acquired four thousand fresh subscribers. An intimate friend of mine translated some years ago Mrs. Wood's clever work, East Lynne, under the name of Lady Isabel, and published it in the said rez de chaussee of La Patrie. He likewise, when he had proceeded half-way in his work, was summoned to M. Delamarre's study. " I sent for you," said the autocrat, " to ask you to complete Lady Isabel within ten days." My friend, perfectly I20 EAST LYNNE aghast at this imperative mandate, replied that he was merely the translator of the work, and that even had he the permission of the authoress, the story was so far advanced that to curtail it was impossible. " Quite possible," retorted M. Delamarre ; " Lady Isabel is dying of consumption ; let her hang herself ; dest dans les mceurs Anglaises." My friend regretted his inability to conform to his chiefs ideas of British customs, whereupon the latter clapped his hat on his head, which you are aware is the greatest insult a Frenchman can oiiTer you, and my friend, following his example, vanished. Lady Isabel appeared in its full length, and was one of the most popular romances La Patrie ever published, the un- deniable proof of which was that newsvendors sold the paper by crying, " La Patrie — Lady Isabel!' But the hatred of the autocrat of La Patrie for my friend is bitter and un- dying. By-the-by, I happened to spend yesterday evening in one of the Legitimist salons of Versailles, where I was assailed by a torrent of reproaches in consequence of having erroneously stated that the Duke de Gramont Caderousse, whose early death has created so painful a sensation at the Jockey Club, was nephew of the celebrated Count d'Orsay, and therefore son of the Gramont Duchess, before whose beauty and wit half Europe went down some forty years ago. It appears that the deceased Duke belonged to a very distant branch of the Gramonts, second son of Charles de Gramont, Duke de Caderousse His eldest brother. Attach^ d'Ambassade, was lost at sea, and thus the Jockey Club lion became Duke ; whereas the head of the Gramonts — who, till, the Revolution swept away feudal fiefs and petty sovereignties, were princes of Bidache, in the Pyrenees, and lords of the country — is the Duke of Gramont, who was ambassador to Rome in 1863, and whose Duchess was n^e Mackinnon. Having acknowledged my ignorance, I trust I shall be forgiven, although I have not the slightest chance of pardon from the Quartier St. Louis of Versailles, the old Legitimists of that last stronghold of French aristocracyj FRENCH LAW OF SUCCESSION 121 deeming an error in pedigree a sin which no amount of peni- tential contrition can obliterate. A curious insight into French law was revealed to me by the death of the late Duke. It appears that when he succeeded to the title he found himself master of seven millions, over which he had uncontrolled sway. A few years of Paris life, however, made sensible inroads on this fortune. His heirs became alarmed. A conseil de famille was summoned, and the late Duke was what is technically called interdit — that is, his estates and funded property were put in charge of an agent selected by the family council, who is made responsible that no portion of it be sold or made away with, and that the actual possessor shall only receive the interest thereof. An instance of a case in point came under my own knowledge last season. A member of the Jockey Club lost 60,000 f. one night, and had not wherewith to pay. His estates were held in trust for him in consequence of his extravagance, although he was a man of thirty. He rushed next morning to his man of business (Monsieur C ), told him of his loss, and added his determination to blow out his brains if Monsieur C did not enable him to clear his honour by giving him the means of paying the debt. Monsieur C , reckoning on his client's youth and appearance of health, and seriously believing in his threat of suicide in case of the debt being un- paid, took on himself the responsibility of giving the 60,000 f. His client has died, and Monsieur C must refund the sum to his heirs. The Duke de Gramont Caderousse will give the lawyers work, even after his death, in consequence of his having left his fortune to his doctor, which is contrary to French law. We have of latter years seen so many instances of the influence medical men exercise on their patients that the law appears to be a very wise one. 122 LES CHANSONS October ^rd. " Tout en France finit par des chansons " — that is, " Every- thing, whether political or social, ends in a song " ; at least, so says the old Gallic adage. The cholera, which continues its ravages in spite of sanitary measures, of the prescriptions of doctors, and processions to holy places, seems to have fled before the merry songs and witty effusions of the working population of Marseilles. It cannot be denied that mirthful songs have a beneficial influence on a terror-struck people. I know of medical men in Paris who, having failed to cure patients suffering from blue devils or spleen by ordinary means, have succeeded by sending them to the Bouffes Parisiens, or the Palais Royal Theatre. Songs have the privilege of diverting the careworn and inspiring the de- sponding. In the workshops and manufactories of France it has been noticed that artisans get through double the amount of work as soon as they strike up a convivial song. I remember in 1848 having been present when a few hundred gamins, of fourteen or fifteen, enrolled in the Garde Mobile, successfully fought against experienced and determined barri- cadeurs, merely because they were excited by their own heroic songs, such as the " Chant du Depart " or the " Mar- seillaise." The effect of national and warlike tunes must, indeed, be terrific, inasmuch as the present Government does not allow them to be sung or played in Paris or the country. Alas ! under the present rigime, the literature of songs has indeed fallen low. No longer do we hear those mystic utterances sweeping the heartstrings with irresistible power, and giving voice to the emotions of a whole people. We are now compelled to waste our enthusiasm on vile trash, such as " II a des battes ! Bastien ! " " Ohd Lambert ! " or the " Nau- frage Davenport." This last production, with which the organ-grinders and strolling singers of Paris bore us, is mild and innocuous when compared with many of the so-called comic songs now afloat, abounding as they do in indelicate NAUFRAGE DAVENPORT 123 allusions and profane jests. This " Davenport " shipwreck begins thus : — " Du fin fond de I'Amdrique, Partent deux spirits jumeaux, Qui, franchissant I'Atlantique, Ddbarquent en trois bateaux. Leur addresse fait merveille ; John Bull croit, c'dtait pr^vu, Qu'avant de voir la pareille, (Bis) II n'avait jamais rien vu. " Les deux fr^r's se regard'nt sans rire Et se dis'nt : AUons a Paris . . . C'est le d^mon qui nous inspire. lA nous serons sacrds . . . spirits ! Si la curiositd les tente, Ces Pariseins, qui n'sont pas forts, Nous gagn'ront vingt mill' livr's de rente Avec une calfeche k huit r'ssorts. Trololoido." Eight verses follow, although they do not precisely shine by their wit. They nevertheless will contribute to finish off the Brothers Davenport, seeing that, in France, /e ridicule tue. The song is stamped with the blue stamp of the Home Office, which proves that M. le Ministre is not a convert to spirit- ualism as represented by these American brothers. October a^th. A good story has come to us from Ischl, where M. de Bismarck was spending a few days previous to his start for Biarritz. So was also Mdlle. L — ■ — , a most charming actress, celebrated alike for her genius and the rigid correctness of her conduct. The minister and actress met on the public walk ; the former recognised the favourite of last season, joined her, and a conversation ensued which continued till he found himself at the door of a photographer's chalet. M. de Bismarck did not quit his agreeable companion, but chatted on, till suddenly the photographer, from under his black veil, rushed out and requested the Prussian minister to stand 124 A STORY OF BISMARCK somewhat on one side, "as otherwise," he explained, "the person of your Excellency will appear in the picture nigh to that of the prima donna." " Mademoiselle," exclaimed the terrified diplomatist," retreating precipitately. " Oh, pray, re- main where you are ; the photograph is intended for the fianci, and he will be so much flattered by the honour," etc, etc. M. de Bismarck could not refuse, and thus it happened that the Prime Minister and the Italian cantatrice appeared in the same carte de visite. The absurd part of the story is, that the Prussian police, imagining that the result had been obtained by cutting out the separate portraits of the person- ages with a malicious intent, have seized the copies sold at Berlin, notwithstanding which the photograph has reached Paris and is to be purchased on the boulevards. October i6tk. The first number of Le Soleil has appeared this evening, and inaugurates its advent by the following story, which is not bad : " ' Ah ! ' exclaimed a tender nurse, ' I have made a mistake — I have given you a spoonful of ink instead of the medicine.' The doctor, arriving in the midst of the scene of despair which ensued, instantly prescribed that the patient should swallow a sheet of blotting-paper." October \%tk. It appears that Italy's hero, Garibaldi, actually wants money, and sent his favourite charger Marsala to be sold by auction at Genoa. The splendid animal had been presented to him by the inhabitants of Sicily, and it must therefore have gone hard with the hero of a hundred fights to part with his favourite charger. The auction took place ; one bid was made of £^o, another of £60, and a third of £?>o. No one seemed inclined to give a better price, when someone suddenly offered ;£'200, which was naturally accepted. The purchaser was Victor Emmanuel, and thus it happens that Marsala is now the show horse of the royal stables. THE EMPRESS AND THE SICK 125 October 2'^rd. At a quarter before ten this morning, as I was walking past the Hopital Beaujon, a dark coach and pair drove up to the entrance in the Faubourg St. Honor^, and the Empress, accompanied by a lady-in-waiting and by her chamberlain, M. de La Grange, descended and entered the hospital, where I can assert she remained until past eleven. Her Majesty was attired in black silk and wore a grey bonnet. From the best authority I learn that she requested to be taken to the cholera wards, where she approached the bed of each patient, and in the case of the dying the Empress knelt by their side and endeavoured to hear their last earthly wish. Having gone slowly through every ward. Her Majesty visited the kitchens of the hospitals, and requested to see the food prepared for the sick of ordinary maladies. The enthusiasm excited by this visit among so impressionable a people as the French can hardly be imagined. The Empress has been represented in England as distinguished only by her personal beauty, dignity, and graceful demeanour ; but Her Majesty has won the heart of the country by her mental gifts, which are of no mean order. Her mind is large and comprehensive, and she has, especially within the last few years, regarded power but as the means of enabling her to do the greatest amount of good to her fellow-creatures. Her heart is cast in the mould of charity. She derives more pleasure from the exercise of domestic virtue than from the routine of State etiquette or the glare of adulation which necessarily surrounds her throne. The hours she spent last spring in the cells of La Roquette Penitentiary, drawing from each of the juvenile delinquents the history of his life, and the days she has since devoted to the remodelling of the prison system, which has led to such beneficial results to the young delinquents of France, have made a deep impression. Her conduct at Biarritz, when in the dead of the night she quitted her brilliant salons to take her place by the cot of 126 M. GUSTAVE GIRARD'S COURAGE Emile de Girardin's child, then dying of the worst form of diphtheria, for the sole purpose of inducing the child to swallow medicine that had been refused, will never be forgotten. Her visit to-day to the crowded wards of the Beaujon — the words of womanly tenderness with which she strove to comfort the dying and give courage to the convalescent — this act of fearless courage and devotion has proved more than any public ceremonial could do that the Empress Eugenie is worthy of her exalted station. As the plain, dark carriage, drawn by a pair of post-horses and attended by a single servant, drove her away from the hospital, I heard a workman en blouse, cry out with " unpaid " enthusiasm, " Bravo ! nous vous sommes -^devouds a la mort ! " Froni the H6pital Beaujon she drove to the H6pital Lariboisiere, where the first cholera patients were taken. This hospital was built by Countess de Lariboisiere, who, during Louis Philippe's reign, left 3,000,000 f. by will for its erection. I see by the evening papers that to-morrow Her Majesty will visit I'Hopital Saint Antoine. Very different is the example set by some of the aristo- crats of the Faubourg St. Germain, who have fled en masse to Versailles, or returned to their chateaux. The shade of the grand monarque must rejoice to see his stately terraces and majestic avenues once more crowded by duchesses and marquises, and the exclusive Quartier St. Louis congratulates itself on the acquisition of so many recruits of its own order. It is true, the plebeian crowd fling the epithet colonie depoltrons at these coronetted cowards, whose sole occupation is to pre- serve their own frivolous existence. Not one of these is M. Gustave Girard, whose acquaintance I have not the honour to have, but to whom I fervently wish the Legion d'Honneur, since he undoubtedly deserves it. M. Girard was one of the young students of Montpellier who volunteered to respond to the appeal from Toulon for medical help. M. Girard, perceiving that the usefulness of many of the hospital aids and other subordinates was neutralised by their fear of the disease, had the immense courage to collect a PALE ALE AND CHOLERA 127 number of them round the bed of a dying man, and, taking the perspiration off his brow, placed it on his tongue ; and, to further convince them that cholera was not infectious, he approached the corpse of another who had expired two hours previously, and, removing the black fur which was encrusted on the dead man's tongue, he put it on his own. M. Girard risked his life ; may he reap the full benefit of his philan- thropic devotion. There is but a step from the sublime to the ridiculous. The brewers of Paris complain of the cholera, not that it rages at this moment, or that it has carried off such a number of useful members of society. Not in the least ; but because its presence among us prevents their selling their beer. Therefore the Worshipful Company of Brewers, like the King of Beasts in La Fontaine's fable, cry out, " Haro, sur ce baudet d'ou nous vient tout le mal ! " The brewers raise a hue-and-cry against the medical men who have dared to say that beer is the worst beverage for us during these cholera times, and the said company, in a letter to the Temps, endeavoured to prove that pale ale and half-and-half are the only true panacea against the fell disease. Their arguments are, that as in every beer there is from five to ten per cent, of alcohol, it must be anti-choleraic ; furthermore, that beer contains carbonic acid gas, which, in the form of eau de seltz, is strongly recommended ; and that the rest of its component parts are strongly albuminous. That gallant veteran. Marshal Regnaud de St. Jean d'Angely, has given order that flannel belts should be distributed to every soldier in his division, besides the supplementary ration of hot coffee which I mentioned yesterday. The Pr^fet of Police has followed the old Marshal's example by giving one of these preventive belts to every policeman ; he has, moreover, established in every quarter of the town a canteen supplied with rum and every medicine that could be required in the case of the sudden illness of any of these men. 128 VICTOR HUGO October 2i^th. However widely opinions may differ as regards Victor Hugo as a politician (he has been, it will be remembered, by turns a Legitimist, an Orleanist, and a republican), there is one point upon which all are agreed, viz. that he is gifted with genius. His works contain some of the sublimest creations of French poetry. There is in Victor Hugo a singular mixture of Horace and Anacreon, of Corneille and Ronsard, of Shakespeare and Byron, of Goethe and Schiller. In most of his writing there is a wild grandeur of conception at once awing and fascinating. His new volume. Chansons des Rues et des Bats, which appeared to-day, is, as far at least as I can judge by a rapid perusal, destined to a great success. It so far resembles the Excursion that in it are to be met separate pieces or passages which stand out with more majesty, more profound thought, and more beauty than the others. A poem may be read — as, for instance, " Le Nid," "Les Etoiles Filantes,""Hilaritas,""Al'Oreille du Lecteur," " Le Baiser," etc. — with exquisite and unimpaired enjoyment as an independent fragment. Some of these scenes are of consummate power, and, what strikes one even on the most careless glance at the book, open it where you will, is the inconceivable prodigality of new imagery. Speaking of Victor Hugo recalls to my mind an incident in his life which is not sufficiently known, and which certainly tells much for the goodness of his heart. Barb^s, the celebrated re- publican and disciple of Robespierre, had been condemned to death during the reign of Louis Philippe. On the eve of the execution the sister of Barbes went to the poet and implored him to ask the King to grant her brother's reprieve. He tried and failed. The Court were at that time mourning for the idolised Princess Marie of Wurtemberg, so early snatched by consumption, and the Count of Paris was just born. It was midnight of the I2th of July. His Majesty had retired. The poet wrote on a slip of paper the following A HAIRDRESSER'S WEDDING 129 stanza, placing it on a table opposite the door of the King's chamber : — " Par votre ange envol^e ainsi qu'une colorabe, Par ce royal enfant, doux et frgle roseau ! Grice encore una fois — grice au nom de la tombe, Grice au nom du berceau ! " Louis Philippe, on awaking, read the lines, and Barbes was saved. November ^th. A marriage in high life occupies no less than two columns of the Gazette des Etrangers ; the details are chronicled by no less literary a pen than that of Henri de P^ne. The church, we are informed, was crowded by the foule par^e — a crowd attired in full dress. M. I'Abbd Reyneval pronounced a touching discourse. At the wedding dinner a telegram con- veyed the congratulations of Her Majesty the Queen of Prussia to the bridal couple, while two poets composed verses in honour of the important event. You probably expect to hear of a Bismarck, a Metternich, or probably even a Bonaparte, having entered the holy 'state of matri- mony. The regal felicitations were tout simplentent addressed to the hairdresser, M. Leroy, whose daughter espoused his apprentice, M. Albert, the paternal domicile being 422, Rue Saint Honor6. Writing of coiffeurs reminds one of coiffures, and certainly the most singular freak of fashion in this item of female attire which has startled us vieux garqons is the tricoque, which, perched partly on one ear and partly on the huge chignon of the coquettes (or shall I write cocottes ?) who are beginning to make their appearance on the Champs Elysees, strikingly recall Van Blarenberghe's admirable de- lineations of the Gardes Frangaises. November 6th. Corresponding for a Paris paper is as much as one's life is worth. The celebrated duel of 1862, where Henri de Pene was compelled to fight successively with two officers, will not I30 VICTIMS OF DUELS have been forgotten. The staff of the Figaro has fought twelve duels in the last ten years — the thirteenth occurred on Friday. Count de Rochefort, in an article on the panic- stricken monarchs who have fled from their dominions on account of cholera, made a remark which awoke the sus- ceptibilities of a youthful Don Quixote, the Duke of A . He sent a challenge to M. de Rochefort, who accepted it. Meudon was appointed rendezvous for this choleraic-mon- archical duel. Thirty paces was the appointed distance chosen. Although each fired three times, neither was hit. The Spanish Duke shook hands with the Count, and both drew back to their respective pdnates. It is all very well to laugh in England, where civilisation has effaced that remnant of barbarism from its customs ; but here, how many a noble spirit can I recall whose life has thus paid for a harmless squib or for a mere slip of the pen ! Poor Dillon, of the Sport, among the latest, Armand Carrel, and how many others in the past! November 12th. The Evinement assures us that it is by no means patronised by the De Rothschild family, with one member of which it is not even acquainted. This statement is necessitated by the fact that five of its columns are devoted to a laudatory leader of the various members of that financial dynasty. Among othet anecdotes, one charming story is related of Baron Gustav de Rothschild, who lately married Mdlle. Anspach, eldest daughter of the Conseiller of the Cour de Cassation. The fair bride's dowry was ;^20,ooo. The evening of the wedding-day the Baron brought his young wife to his residence, and on taking her to a fairy boudoir he had arranged for her reception he handed a small parcel to her. " Will you refuse to grant your husband's first request ? " " Of course not," replied the youthful Baroness. "Then add the ;^20,ooo which this envelope contains to your little sister's portion." The Ev^nement further informs us that Baron James Rothschild rises at ANECDOTES OF M. DUPIN 131 seven, and, whilst he is being shaved and dressed by his valet Felix, M. Boudeville, professor of elocution, reads the moping papers to him. It is to be hoped he gives the correct intonation to the market reports, etc. At eight o'clock the Baron proceeds to his office, where he works till six, whence he goes to play his rubber of whist at the club. The family dine at eight, after which they meet in the salons Baroness James, who receives Thiers, and all the nobilities of the day, whence, however, the Baron sometimes escapes to criticise the actions of the pupils of his teacher, M. Boude- ville, at the Theatre de la Tour de Auvergne. The papers of the day are filled by anecdotes of the late M. Dupin, whose sudden death, the other day, has been the event of the week. It appears that when President of the Chambers he acquired somewhat the tone of a schoolmaster. He more than once blew up Berryer for a habit he had of cutting with his penknife at the desk opposite which he sat in the Chambers ; but nothing excited his indignation so much as members of the House who, although apparently replying to speeches on the impulse of the moment, had, in fact, arrived with notes of what they intended to say. One especially attracted his attention, and, seeing this gentleman on one occasion working himself into a state of frightful excitement from not being able to put his notes in proper order, M. Dupin called out, " Monsieur, Jinissez-en, you may shuffle your cards as you will, you will never find the ace." He knew by heart those who made a practice of suddenly interrupting a speaker. On one occasion, when Lamartine was in the midst of one of his brilliant speeches, forewarned by the President, he suddenly stopped, crossed his arms, and looked straight at the pro- fessional interrupter, who did not see the trap laid for him. "I am waiting, sir, for your interruption," M. Lamartine coolly said to him. Of course, a shout of laughter from all sides of the House greeted this saillie. M. Dupin's remarks on the various modes in which the deputies drank the glass of water which, in his time, was always ready for a speaker in 132 MEN AND DRINKS the tribune were most amusing. M. de Lamartine scarcely- touched the glass with his lips. Jules Favre, on the contrary, impetuously gulped down the oflScial beverage, while Thiers imbibed it slowly. Puritan Guizot drank the fluid in its pristine purity, without admixture of sugar, and courtly De Montalembert swallowed it slowly, a perfect syrup of eau sucree. M. Dupin's dexterity in ringing the presidential bell was sometimes marvellous, a practice he used un- mercifully during any parliamentary tempest, especially whenever the storm blew from an unfavourable quarter for the ministerial bench. November igtk. In contradiction of the rumours afloat as to the disposal of M. Dupin's property, it is stated on apparently good authority that he has bequeathed the ;£" 12,000 a year (300,000 f.) which he had accumulated to his fourteen nephews. Eleven wills have already been found duly signed and sealed, almost rivalling in number the political creeds professed by the late Procureur-General. Speaking of him it occurs to me to mention that one of the most strange documents he published was his revision of the trial of our Saviour, which he did from a mere legal point of view, and proved by reference to the Roman as well as the Jewish law that the sentence passed on our Lord was perfectly illegal. In this pamphlet M. Dupin does not allude to the religious phase of the question ; he merely criticises the proceedings of the Jewish Sanhedrin. November 22nd. Handbooks on all imaginable subjects abound, and to the long list in circulation the Count de Montigny has added one bearing the singular title : Handbook for Outriders, Coachmen, Grooms and Stable Boys. A great subject, un- doubtedly. We only hope the Count's genius was enabled to grasp his subject. LAMARTINE ON MEXICO 133 November 2ird. M. de Lamartine is pretty severely criticised in the Dibats of this morning, owing to an article which he has written in the last number of the Entretiens Littiraires, and bearing on the Mexican question. M. de Lamartine seems suddenly to have become a convert to the present Government, in- asmuch as he entirely approves of the French expedition to Mexico, which he considers "a grand idea, just as is necessity, vast as the ocean, novel as the d. propos, the con- ception of a statesman, pregnant as is the future, a thought which will result in the salvation of America and of the whole world ! " The common sense of the public, justly remarks the Dibats, which cannot boast of being as vast as the ocean, views the expedition as being in opposition to the spirit of American institutions, one of the funda- mental principles of which leads the people to resent with bitter intensity the slightest attempt at European inter- ference in its affairs. The masses of the French nation by no means seize either the utility or the i propos of this aggression, which the poet, on the contrary, considers as not having been carried out with sufficient energy. Accord- ing to him, the hour having arrived to preach a general crusade of all the European populations against Americans, whom he considers as the Saracens of modern times. Of what crimes does this chantre des harmonies poetiques accuse the American nation ? Simply of possessing cotton and gold mines, of which Europe would gladly profit. The desire to seize these he considers as both natural and just. What, however, would the author of Miditations Poetiques say if the Americans attempted to appropriate the vine- yards of Burgundy and Bordeaux on the pretext that they have nothing of the kind at home, and that these vineyards are worth their weight in gold ? Another reproach which M. de Lamartine makes to that nation is that it has not acquired the polished manners or the correct tone of good 134 LAMARTINE AND THE DEMOCRACY society. Whatever amount of importance he attaches to questions of politeness or personal amiability, one must confess that it is rather difficult to declare war against a people because they are not well up in etiquette ; but let us put aside these puerilities and come to their real crime in the eyes of M. de Lamartine. The population of the United States are the representatives of democracy, and are jealous of all that are superior to themselves. "Americans," writes the poet, "cut down the aristocratic giants of the forests, and delight in knocking them down, jealous as they are even of great works of nature. They treat the mighty superiorities of intelligence in like manner ; they annihilate their great men as they cut down their trees." The D^bats attributes the violence of this attack to the feelings of rancour which Lamartine bears towards democracy ever since 1848, when, as you are aware, the poet canvassed for the presidency of the French Republic, and could only secure a few thousand votes. The D^bats may be right, still I am not inclined to be as severe on the poet as is this Orleanist organ. It appears to me that it would have been better taste had the Dibats left this souvenir unevoked, for let it be said to the eternal honour of the author of the Girondins that though he did not succeed in grasping sovereign power he met his fate with the cool heroism of a man who had done his duty. In 1848 he defied the wrath and refused to yield to the imperious demands of Red Republicans, and, though he failed to associate order with freedom, when he withdrew from the political arena he carried with him the admiration of his friends and the respect of his opponents. November 2i^h. MM. Alfred Tramhaut and Jules Ladimir have almost com- pleted a work which will attract attention. Its title, Les Femmes Militaires, of itself excites curiosity. The following sketch of the Countess de Saint Borlemont will convey an idea of its contents. Alberte Barbe, daughter of the Seigneur LES FEMMES MILITAIRES 135 of the Chateau de la Neuville, was born in 1607, and at the age of twenty-seven married the Count de Saint Borle- mont, a colonel in the service of Charles, Duke of Lorraine. The lady, wholly given up to masculine exercise, appears to have quarrelled with her husband at the outset of her married life, and yet her conduct was in all other respects strictly correct. The Count, however, followed the banner of his master, and fought with the Imperialists, who, in 1636, had coalesced with Austria against Louis XIII., while she remained steadfast to her attachment to France. Her chateau being attacked by Spanish troops, the heroic Countess, at the head of her tenants, not only defended it, but in a sortie completely routed and put to flight the attacking party. During the seven following years Alberte successfully repulsed the foreign regiments who attempted to harass her dependants. On one occasion, while her husband was absent with the Duke of Lorraine on a distant expedition, the Countess gave a temporary asylum to a French officer in command of a detachment of cavalry sent to her support. The young man thought he might spend his time agreeably in the intervals of military occupa- tions by making love to his chatelaine. He received a challenge signed Chevalier de Borlemont, purporting to have been sent by the lady's brother-in-law. The officer accepted the cartel, and went to the place of meeting. The Countess, disguised as a man, awaited him. The duel took place, and the lady succeeded in disarming her foe, to whom she restored his sword, saying, " Sir, you thought you were fighting with a cavalier; learn in future that wives can defend their honour during the absence of their husbands." With her own hands the Countess killed, during her various military exploits, four hundred individuals. When General Erlach passed through Champagne she attacked three German soldiers whom she caught in the act of taking the horses from her plough, and kept them at bay till her own men came to her rescue. On one occasion, while leading the attack on a German castle, she mounted the breach, and. 136 GOUNOD'S MASS effecting an entrance, found herself alone in a room with seventeen men, armed to the teeth, whom she managed to disarm. On the death of the Count this femme militaire entered the convent of Bar le Due, but the life of seclusion was too severe for her, and she was obliged to return to the Chateau de la Neuville, where she died 1660, leaving one daughter, who married Louis des Arnoises, Seigneur de Commercy. November 2%th. So great was the anxiety of the public to hear Gounod's Mass that as early as ten o'clock this morning every avail- able spot in the magnificent church of St. Eustache was filled by a dense crowd, who patiently waited fully two hours before the first notes of the organ were heard. The church is cruciform ; the centre of the nave was reserved for the accommodation of the artists who were taking part in the ceremony, while the rest was occupied by reserved seats, the two aisles being equally crowded. We had ample time to admire the stained glass of the clerestory windows, the elaborate tracery which adorns the triforium gallery, the side chapels lately restored in the Byzantine style, but oyer one of which the arms and cardinal's hat of the mighty Richelieu still remain. A movement in the crowd attracted our attention to the fact that way was to be made for mesdames les quiteuses, who, preceded by stately beadles in all the pomp of white-feathered cocked hats, were led by attendant squires to their seats. Would I could borrow the pen of some fair chroniqueuse to record the gorgeous attire of these pious women. Deeply engraved on my memory is the bewitching smile which beamed on my bewildered senses from beneath a thing of pink crape, called, I believe, a bon- net, while a mass of mauve velvet gracefully swept by, the attendant squire meanwhile calling out in stentorian voice, "L'oeuvre de Sainte Cecile," the fair quSteuse offering her scarlet velvet and gold bag to all around. Heavens ! when I felt the mauve velvet approach my chair ! To offer her less A FETE AT COMPIEGNE 137 than gold would have been simply an insult. Was there no escape? I looked despairingly around. It was a hopeless case ; for, in the distance, lo, I beheld four of her sisterhood sumptuously arrayed kneeling at each side of the door armed with these terrible scarlet bags, wherewith they en- trapped the passers-out — and note, we had paid for our chairs, so this flank movement came rather hard on the unwary. Certainly Gounod's Mass, meanwhile, was well worth hearing. The Kyrie Eleison, sung by four hundred artists of the Conservatoire, with an accompaniment of eight bassos, six harps, and the full opera orchestra, can better be imagined than described. Madame Sax's voice rang out clear and full, and great as was the space she had to fill, her voice proved equal to the task. The solo on the violin by Allard sur- passed our expectations ; in execution it could not have been equalled by any living artist, and perhaps the simple character of the composition gave greater scope to the ex- treme delicacy of his performance than the more complicated pieces we usually hear him execute. There was a movement as the last note died away which told of the thrilling effect this exquisite interlude had upon the vast audience. The Benedictus was one of the finest parts of the day's services. November 2gth. Les Commentaires de Char, or Review of 1865, appears to have been a complete success at Compiegne, chiefly owing to the brilliant comic talent of the Princess de Metternich, on whom the difficult task devolved of performing three differ- ent parts, in each of which she acquitted herself with a perfect mastery of her subject, and an dfropos which ex- perienced actresses would have envied. The company present included the Imperial family, the sixty-seven guests of the second series, General von Wimpfen, the keeper of the Imperial forests, and Viscountess de la Panouge, M. and Madame Jules Lecoq, and the Procureur Imperial. Precisely at nine the curtain of crimson velvet, splendidly embroidered 138 INCIDENTS OF THE FETE in gold, rose and displayed the Champs de Mars, in the fore- ground of which somewhat arid space stood a saucy-looking marchande de plaisirs, personified by Jamy Louis Conneau, who, in payment for that popular biscuit, receives a kiss from Count de Solms, a marchand of that detestable beverage called coco, upon which she remarks, " C'est pour avoir du plaisir." M. de Lambert, as mayor of a country village, M. Prudhomme by name, appears admirably got up in a brown coat, broad-brimmed hat, silver spectacles, and nankin inex- pressibles, and complains that he had prepared a clever speech, but that " La Censure " had cut it short. A cantinikre (Princess de Metternich) informs the prosy mayor that C6sar is to review the troops. " What ! the C6sar of Roman history ? Impossible. He is at Compi^gne." " May be," replies the Vivandi^re, " I shall be sure to make him out." She looks round the house, and perceiving the Emperor re- quests him to passer la revue. " Ah, sire, you will not. Very well; whether you like it or not, 1865 shall be reviewed by you, as you sit in your armchair." The Marquise de Gallifett, as Trade, leads the way in a costume of white and gold crowned by rays of light ; she attends upon France (Countess Pourtales) whose fair complexion and chevelure dorie is admirably set off by her helmet and cuirass of gold and silver scales, over which a green velvet mantle, emblazoned by the Imperial Arms and symbolic bees, is most becomingly draped. The strike of the cabmen next appears, represented by the Princess, attired in a coachman's top coat, long gaiters, and round hat, with the black cockade and silver band peculiar to her house. She requests M. Prudhomme to engage her by the month, seeing that her husband has struck work, and she has several children to support. The Princess truly asserts that, like Mary Draper, " she'd ride a wall or drive a team, for nothing could escape her." All these merits she details with perfect imitation of a cabby's tone and gait. She was, however, more applauded when she re- appeared as the impersonation of Song, wearing a white petticoat on which in black lines were musical keys, over AT COMPIEGNE 139 which floated a tulle skirt spangled with silver, her black velvet bodice a mass of diamonds, and her headdress two roses and aigrette of brilliants. She sings a clever risum^ of the musical art from the time of Mazarin, during the reign of the Grand Monarque, the Regency, and the Empire, with a tact and wit for which the ambassadress is so remarkable. " L'Africaine " was represented by Baroness de Poilly and Viscount d'Aguado, the latter as Vasco da Gama, who sang one of Offenbach's bouffe duo to the air of " Litzchen and Fritzchen." The interchange of the visits of the French and English fleets was given by Viscount d'Espenilles, as a volunteeer, and Viscount de Fitzjames, as a French sailor, who recommends his brave ally " Ayez toujours un canon k la poche, On ne sait pas ce qui peut arriver." Mr. Blount personated La Diva Patti, not an enviable task, and the Marquis de Caux Cocodette, a term, as you are aware, applied to a woman of the world, who copies in dress and tone the anonymas of the demi-monde. The soirie terminated by a trio sung by the Past, General de Mellinet, as an invalid soldier ; the Present, the Marquis de Gallifett, in the uniform of his regiment ; and the Future, the Prince Imperial, a young grenadier, which trio is described as having been a chef d'ceuvre of tact, wit, and d propos. December a^th. On Saturday took place the opening of the new theatre Les Fantaisies Parisiennes before a select public, as well as all the literary notabilities of this capital. The bill of fare consisted of a prologue in verse, a farce. La Derniere Nuit d'une Veuve, La Pajttomime de VAvocat, and a charming operette of Donizetti called II Campanello. The pantomime was the great success of the evening, the comic combinations of which do great credit to the imagination of Champfleury. The celebrated clown Deburau was received with great I40 CENSORSHIP OF THE PRESS applause. He is a first-rate mimic, and has the talent of setting the whole room in a roar. His imitation of the gestures and manner of a baritone was admirable. Mademoi- selle Bonheur made a charming columbine, and fascinated all by her grace and beauty, not a little set off by tasteful cos- tume. The first evening was quite a success, and augurs well for the popularity of the Fantaisies Parisiennes, whose three attractions are fun, frolic, and gaiety. The theatre itself is a perfect little bonbonniere, arranged with exquisite taste in the rez de chaussde of 26, Boulevard des Italiens, which house is the property of the Marquis of Hertford. It appears that the censorship of the Press objected to one line in the prologue, and the verse in question was altered twelve times before Messieurs les Censeurs would allow it to pass, the point at issue being the expression, " Les dpoux sortent de leurs bains." " Their baths ! " exclaimed the austere Cato of the Board of Censure ; " the plural is not marked by the sound, and it might imply that husband and wife bathed together. C'est tres indecent." December Jth. I mentioned the celebration of the Empress's f^te at Com- piegne on the 15th of last month, and the numerous bouquets of exotic flowers with which Her Majesty's guests presented her. M. de Nieuwerkque, it appears, was fortunate enough to have been able to offer a treasure of no slight artistic value, it being one of the few water-coloured drawings extant by Prudhon, not only bearing his signature, but being a por- trait of himself in the costume he wore at .a ball given by the First Consul. The story of the discovery of this trouvaille is curious. M. Luquet, a well-known connoisseur, was wan- dering a few weeks ago along the remote Rue Mouffetard, when suddenly his attention was arrested by a drawing lying among some old fashions in the window of a barber's shop, the name Prudhon being daubed in red letters at a corner of the sketch. We all know how scarce an authentic Prudhon has become of late years. Assuming a tone of indifference, A DRAWING BY PRUDHON 141 M. Luquet inquired whether cette image (a tel-m for a child's penny print) was for sale. " No," replied he of the razor, in the act at the moment of imprisoning a grizzled gendarme in the shroud-like shaving cloth ; " that is, it belongs to my father ; he will be at home about six." Punctual as the clock of N6tre Dame was our amateur. " Papa," said the barber, "it's the gentleman for your bon homme." The old man could hardly totter along. " You want to buy my Prudhon, sir ; for it is a Prudhon, I can answer for that. He himself gave it to me one evening I had curled his hair d Titus for a ball at the Tuileries. You see, sir, I was his hairdresser, and like- wise the great M. David's." This long preamble sounded ominous to the anxious ears of M. Luquet. "Sell my Prudhon ! Well, I never thought of such a thing. You see, I am half-blind and cannot see, so I gave it to my grandson, Adolphe, to amuse himself with, and it is a miracle he has not snipped it with his scissors." " But," replied M. Luquet, " one might give Adolphe something he would like better." A splendid Zouave balancing on an elastic in the window of a toy-shop opposite suggested the idea, which he mentally prayed might prove a tempting bait to M. Adolphe. " Cer- tainly, and as you are a connoisseur I would prefer you to have my Prudhon ; my grandson will only tear it." " How much will you sell it for ? " " Oh, it is an original, and signed, and that is something. Would you think it too much if I asked fifteen sous?" December 11 tk. I recorded the opening of the Fantaisies Parisiennes, where pantomime, for the first time since the Funambules were demolished, attracts French curiosity under the auspices of M. Champfleury. The success of the evening is the perfor- mance of Deburau, whose life has had many singular phases. His father, the celebrated comedian, determined on making him a painter of porcelain, and entered him as an artist at the Sevres manufactory. But the theatre was his vocation, and the vases entrusted to him were decorated by groups of 142 DEBURAU columbines and harlequins. On his father's death he threw away his brushes and studied with so much earnest purpose that in ten years he had made a name. He suddenly dis- appeared from Paris. He had started on a tour over Europe. On his return he was in a small hotel at Nevers with his wife, intending to remain forty-eight hours ; but to sleep during the first night was impossible, seeing that the occupant of the room overhead spent his in pacing his room with creaking boots. Deburau summoned the waiter at early dawn and despatched him with a message to his enemy imploring him to adopt list shoes as his chaussure. " Who has sent you ? " inquired he of the noisy boots. " The actor, M. Deburau." " Deburau ! " exclaimed M. Bravay ; " why, I have scoured Europe in search of him ! " " Well, sir," replied the gargon, " he begs you will change your boots." But M. Bravay had already dashed downstairs, and was in the actor's presence. He had had for fifteen months in his portfolio an engagement from the Egyptian Viceroy, Said Pacha. Deburau signed it, and started for the kingdom of the Pharaohs, escorted by Harlequin, Cassandra, and Columbine. Safd Pacha had a movable theatre. His Highness was constantly travelling ; the performance therefore took place in an ancient temple of Sesostris one night, perhaps the next in a palace of the Pacha ; the third in the identical hall where the priests of Isis taught Pythagoras, and so on. And as varied as the mise-en-scine were the modes of transport. At times the troupe traversed the desert on camels ; as often Columbine, Cassandra, and Pierrot found themselves sailing up the Nile in a dahabieh. At the end of ten months of this nomadic existence Deburau returned to Paris. Last Tuesday, about one o'clock, two gentlemen called at Rossini's residence, and asked if he was at home. The servant showed them into the dining-room, and presently informed them that his master (who happened to have a bad cold) was out walking on the boulevards. The visitors, aware that nothing could be more unlikely than that a man whose chief occupation was coughing and sneezing would start out THE KING OF PORTUGAL AND ROSSINI 143 with the barometer at freezing-point, particularly insisted upon seeing Signor Rossini. The servant unwillingly conveyed the message. Rossini came out of his room and asked what they wanted. One of the gentlemen said that he had been sent by Don Ferdinand (at this moment Regent of Portugal) to present his compliments, and to be kindly remembered to him. Rossini made a suitable reply, and said that he had heard by the papers that his son, the present King, was in Paris. " He is," said the youngest of the intruders. " C'est moi, cher maitre ! " " And how could I recognise the King in a great-coat and grey hat ? " The young monarch, after a long chat with the great maestro, asked if he had not a piano. " Yes, two." The King sat down and played from memory passages from Guillaume Tell, from the Trovatore, etc., accompanied by M. de Paiva, his ambassador, who is as good a musician as himself. On taking leave of Rossini the King begged of him to accept the insignia of a new order he has lately created, called the Order of Merit. December lyth. The following anecdote may amuse you. Jules Janin, the illustrious critic of the D^bats, and the brilliant feuilletoniste, who has so often been unsuccessfully proposed for the vacant chair at the Academy, was crossing the muddiest part of the Boulevard des Italiens, which is in course of being macada- mised, when the friend with whom he was walking expressed the hope that justice would at length be done, and that he would soon be numbered among the forty immortals. " Why not?" replied Jules Janin; "everything being macadamised in our days, I do not see why I should not be macadamised also." December 20th. Last week a young foreigner, dressed with perfect sim- plicity, went into Devisme the gun -smith's shop on the Boulevard des Italiens, and asked for a double-barrelled gun 144 A GENUINE NIMROD to shoot wild boars, and expressed his anxiety to try Devisme's new explosive balls. M. Devisme happened to be in the shop, entered into conversation with the young man, and, at once recognising a genuine Nimrod, remarked that as it was absurd to try either guns or balls in a mere shooting- gallery, he invited him to his country place at Argenteuil, where he was going to shoot the following day, and would be very happy to be accompanied by his new acquaintance. The young man asked how long it would take to reach his house. " Two hours," replied Devisme ; " I start by the ten train. In half an hour we shall reach our destination, and it will take us about three-quarters of an hour to try the guns, and half an hour to return ; but it occurs to me that eleven is breakfast hour. I can offer you a cutlet and an omelette, hunter's fare." " Bravo ! " said the young foreigner, " I accept." After selecting his gun, Devisme inquired his name and address. The young man took the pen and wrote in the book of addresses, " Roi de Portugal, Grand Hotel." December 2\st. A most curious trial has just taken place in consequence of the death of an old lady, Mdlle. de Serilly, who died last February at Theil. You are aware that on the death of public functionaries the State has a right to take possession of their papers, manuscripts, and documents of all kinds, and abstract therefrom whatever may refer to public affairs. Mdlle. de Serilly had carefully preserved an immense number of official papers which had been handed down in her family from one generation to another. She possessed 630 docu- ments referring to the administration of one of her ancestors, M. d'Etigny, who was prefect of Auch during the last century; 429 official papers bearing on the official life of another d'Etigny, who was governor of Beam during the reign of Louis XIV. ; furthermore several papers signed by Louis XV., and countersigned by Choiseul ; letters from the Count de Toulouse, from Marshal d'Etr^es, etc., etc. M. le THE DE SERILLY CASE 145 Prdfet d'Yonne, in the name of Government, claimed one and all of these family papers. Last year the tribunal of Sens tried thS case, and delivered a verdict for the De Serilly family. The prefect appealed to the Paris courts and, to the infinite satisfaction of all those who possess family archives of any historic interest, the prefect has lost his cause. Six hundred papers, however, referring to the administration of a sub-prefect actually living, are to be given up to the Govern- ment. To this the family never objected. M. Oscar de Vallons made an able speech, which is worthy of study for those curious in French law. He clearly explained that the only motive that actuated the Government in such a case was its anxiety to preserve historic records for the use of the public in general ; but as he justly remarked, if in this instance a verdict were given against the heirs of Mdlle. de Serilly, every family would be exposed to the chances of having its muniment chest rifled by Government at any moment and the most private documents taken. The publicity to which death exposes a family in France is very singular to our English ideas. The moment your relative expires it becomes your duty to send for the inMecin Ugiste who inspects the dead body, and notifies to the prefect the fact of his decease. In a few hours the police commissary arrives and seals up every drawer, secretaire, and possession of your late relative. These seals can only be removed after the family council, as it is called, has met, and read the will of the deceased in the presence of a public functionary. An instance of the extreme inconvenience to which this practice leads came under my own notice in the case of an English lady whose husband had been pasteur of a church in the neighbourhood of Paris. From the fact of her brother being absent from the house and travelling at the time of the demise of the pasteur, the family council could not meet for six weeks, during which interval the lady had not even access to her own writing-drawer, or the power of withdrawing certain moneys belonging to herself independently of her late husband. 146 JOUR DE L'AN January ^rd, 1866. Long lines of wooden booths are annually erected along the boulevards during the first week of the year, belonging to the wives of poor artisans and workmen, who stack their fragile tenements with gingerbread and sugarsticks for the supply of the poor of their own class. On Saturday evening iat a late hour, two ladies, closely veiled, walked along the whole line of these stalls, which extend from the Rue de la Paix to the Porte Saint-Martin. It was re- marked that these ladies selected the poorest of the booths to make their purchases, and that when asked 50 c. (s); flounced chestnut satin, tulle and silver, and blue butterflies, 350 f. (;^I4) ; March — Black silk dress, trimmed with jet and watered ribbon, 700 f. (;£^28) ; total, 3,050 f. The season over, the Duchess left Paris for the country. THE DISPUTED BILL 233 M. Maugas had previously sent in his bill several times, and at last wrote to the Duchess to say that on presenting himself at her house he had been referred to M. Desnoyers, the Duke's agent, who, to Kis infinite amazement, had offered him 2,500 f (;^ioo) instead of 3,050 f. He supposed some mistake had occurred. The dresses in question were certainly not cheap, but they were of a style which involved consider- able outlay. A fortnight later M. Maugas wrote a second time to remind the Duchess that she had made no terms when ordering the goods, and had merely desired that they should be as perfect as possible, which her grace admitted them to have been ; that, although it was by no means the habit of his establishment to have recourse to the strong arm of the law, if he did not receive the money due to him he would not shrink from this unpleasant alternative. In reply to this declaration of war a Voutrance, M. Desnoyers wrote a most insolent letter to Maugas, the chief accusation therein being that if his customers did not agree beforehand as to the terms on which he undertook to equip them for conquest, it was evident he took advantage of their confiding natures to charge double what was his due. M. Desnoyers may be right, but the tone of his letter was familiar and sneering. The affair was brought before the Courts yester- day. M. Beaulieu pleaded for Maugas ; he opened the case by producing bills of every sovereign house in Europe, entering into minute details as to dresses supplied to every empress, queen, and princess in the Almanack de Gotha, thereby proving that in comparison to the price supplied to these high and mighty personages, the Duchess's attire was absurdly cheap. Why, one of the queens on his books had just paid 3,400 f. {£12,2) for a mere dinner dress ; another, an empress, I believe, 3,800 f. ; and so on ; and as to Princess Dagmar, the wife of the Caesarewitch, her last dress cost 7,000 f. (;^28o). The counsel for the Duchess pleaded in her defence that she had agreed to a sort of tariff", by which her robes were to cost 700 f all round. The court has referred the affair to the expertise of Madame La 234 PRINCE NARISHKINE Ferriere, before whom the blue butterfly and brown tulle, etc., attire is to be laid, and on her decision as to its intrinsic value this curious case will be decided. January 2t,th. Prince Narishkine is looking out for a house, but as yet he has failed in his search — one of the sine qud nons he insists upon being that he should have eight salons en suite. Mean- while the Prince has taken a villa near the Bois de Boulogne, where he was dining a few days ago with his friend and countryman the Prince . At dessert Prince Narishkine remarked on the beauty of the fruit basket, and asked his host if he cared about it. " Not in the least," was the reply. " Will you let me have it for such and such a sum?" " My plate room would not be worth seeing if I parted with it, for that is the best thing it contains." " I will buy the room also." " Very well," replied the host. " And the hdtel besides," added Prince Narishkine. " With all my heart." " And the cellar ? " " Soit." "And the stables?" "Certainly." "And the carriages and horses ? " " Yes." " And what will you give me for all ?" " Four hundred thousand francs." " All right ; done." " But on one condition," said Prince Narishkine ; " that I sleep here to-night, and that you leave here after dinner." The Prince replied that the clause was so spirituelle- ment excentrique that he would agree to it likewise. The 4CX),ooo f were laid on the dessert table, partly in notes and partly in gold. The recent host rang the bell, gave orders to his groom of his chambers to pack up his wardrobe. Prince Narishkine accompanied his friend and guest to the door of a carriage which he graciously lent to him who an hour before had been its possessor ; and thus Prince Narishkine became the host of the Villa Ranelagh. THE HISTORY OF A TRIBUNE 235 February \st. The tribune which has just been re-established at the Corps L^gislatif is the original one, and its history is most curious. It belonged formerly to the Salles des Cinq Cents ; the bas reliefs with which it is adorned belong to that period, and consist of two female figures, one of which represents History in the act of writing, and the other Fame sounding a trumpet. The double faces of Janus may be seen beneath these bas relievos, one looking at the fact as typified by History, and the other looking at the future, which is Fame, the whole sur- mounted by Liberty. On the i8th Brumaire this tribune was concealed in a cellar of the Legislative Palace ; yet care had been taken to number each block of marble, of which it is composed, so that when parliamentary debates again were the order of the day the marble blocks were simply rearranged in their primitive order. Under the July Monarchy this tribune was placed in the present Legislative Chamber, where it remained till 1852, when it was again taken to pieces and replaced in the vaults of the palace, each piece, as formerly, being carefully numbered. The blocks of marble have been fifteen years again resting from the fatigue of supporting the weight of eloquence which has emanated from the orators of France, and now, owing to the intercession and liberal ideas of M. de Walewski, are once more to emerge into the political arena of the Second Empire. The tribune is reached by an ascent of six steps, and it was in this tribune that the well- known scene occurred within a few months of the fall of the Orleanist Dynasty, when Guizot, who was then speaking on a question of vital importance, uttered the following words to several members who were scrambling up the steps to en- deavour to interrupt his speech : " Montez, messieurs, montez ; vous n'arriverez jamais jusqu'^ la hauteur de mon mepris ! " 236 THE ROBBER AND THE CARDINAL February ^th. A curious scene occurred the other day in one of the great salons of the Faubourg St. Germain. The Duke de G gave a splendid concert, to which he invited His Eminence the Papal Nuncio and his secretary. Both dignitaries accepted the invitation, but on entering the salon were somewhat sur- prised at the evident astonishment their appearance created. Their surprise increased when they remarked the Duchess of G (who, as lady of the house, advanced to receive them) appeared extremely embarrassed. The enigma, however, was quickly solved. The diva selected to entertain the noble company proved to be the chanteuse of the Eldorado, Theresa. Both prelates, on being made aware of this, instantly quitted the Duke's house. As has been justly remarked, the circum- stance is a sign of the times. The representative of the head of the Church is invited to a private party, and the person selected to entertain him is a woman whom even the sterner sex blush to listen to. February 6tk. Princess Wolowski gave a grand dinner last week to a party of gourmets. Conversation turned on the delicacies of former days which have gone out of fashion. A veteran gourmet recalled ^^pdti de rouge gorges (robin-redbreasts), of which the Marquise de Cr^qui writes in her spirituel memoirs. The Cardinal de Greves was so fond of robin-redbreast pie that he never travelled without one. On one occasion the Cardinal was waylaid by the prince of highwaymen, Cartouche, who treated him with the utmost politeness, merely " annex- ing" his pastoral cross and ring, ten louis, two bottles of Tokay, and his robin-redbreast pdtd. Cartouche took off his hat to his secretary, and said he was trop gentil to be robbed. " Well," said the Cardinal, " if you let my secretary off so easily you ought, at least, to give us back our pie and one bottle of Tokay." " Ah ! " sighed the highwayman, " it looks SCOTCH DRESSES FROM PARIS 237 too good to give it up ; but if Your Eminence will sit down and share it with us, I shall be delighted to be your host." The Cardinal was scandalised, but love of robin-redbreast pdti overcame his scruples, and he and his secretary accepted the proffered hospitality. Princess Wolowski has promised a pdti de rouge gorges to her friends at their next meeting. February 20th. When Her Majesty the Empress visited Nancy last autumn, where embroidery or muslin is the special occupation of the peasantry, she ordered several dresses to be put in hand for her own use, one of which has been completed and sent to the Tuileries. The design consists in a broad ribbon of open work thrown carelessly around scattered lilacs, heartsease, and all the symbolic flowers, the fond of the dress consisting in a marvellous variety of minute flowers, which diminish in size towards the upper part of the skirt. The value of this chef d'ceuvre of hand labour is ;£'so. M. Horrer, from whose embroidered muslin factory it has issued, considers it the best specimen ever produced by French embroideresses. The description of this dress reminds me of an amusing fact which occurred at the time of the Emperor and Empress's visit to Switzerland, when it had been the intention of Her Majesty to ascend Mont Blanc. Her Majesty expressed a wish to have some Scotch travelling dresses, such as she had seen during her visit to the Highlands. The Minister of Foreign Affairs undertook the commission, and sent the order at once to the French Consul at Edinburgh, who replied that in ten days the box would reach the French Embassy in London. The given delay elapsed, but no tidings of the costumes reached Paris. His Excellency telegraphed to the French Ambassador, who in his turn telegraphed to the Consul at Edinburgh, and received the following reply: "The boxes have not yet arrived." " What boxes ? " was telegraphed back from the French Embassy. "Why, the boxes con- taining the costumes ordered from Paris." The Scotch 238 AN INTERESTING AUTOGRAPH costumes the Empress had admired had come from Paris, and none such were to be had in Edinburgh, or had ever been made in that capital. February 2^th. A curious autograph, unique of its kind, has been dis- covered by M. Philarfete Chasles, Conservator of the Mazarin Library, and Lecturer at the College of France. M. Chasles, in searching among the treasures of this library, has been fortunate enough to find a copy of Euripides of the Sixteenth Century (edition Plantin), on the fly-leaf of which are in- scribed the names of Marshal d'Ancre, the husband of Marie de Medici's friend, who himself was murdered within the walls of the Louvre, by order of Louis XIII., whilst his wife was condemned to death as a sorceress. The Marshal's names appear to have been Cosme Antoine Baptiste Concini ; the Greek words " Kleina palaion " are written beneath the names in the same ink, whilst on the reverse side of the page are several passages from the works of Euripides, translated into Latin, and probably the ambitious courtier applied these to himself. This is the first time the Marshal's exact names have been discovered. The icrou of his wife and the details of her horrible death are to be found in the registers of the conciergerie. March \th. I have just witnessed a disgraceful sight. A funeral ceremony had just terminated at the Madeleine ; the colifin was to be seen, surrounded by the relatives of the deceased, issuing from the grand entrance, when suddenly several hundred persons rushed up the broad perron, and occupied the magnificent flight of steps leading to the entrance of the church, in order to secure a good view of the Boeuf Gras, which presently came by, preceded by the usual masques, blowing squealing trumpets, shouting, grimacing, and dancing ; and these carnivalesque antics cease not in the presence of death. The French are generally remarkable for A BAL-COSTUME 239 the respect with which they treat the dead. The coffin of a pauper, carried along on a mere hand-cart, is saluted by every passer-by, whatever be his rank, and the man who does not raise his hat as the dead pass is considered as a regular brute. But the carnival, with its heathenish mysteries, appears to deaden every natural feeling, and the people allow themselves to be stultified to all sense of decency. This year the chief feature of the procession consists of a lofty car, bearing a colossal model of the genius of France, rising over a globe of gold, and inviting the nations of the earth to the Great Exhibition. The figure is remarkably well executed. The car was filled by persons of both sexes, attired in the costumes of Asia, Africa, and America. Twelve giants, ten feet in height, representing the inhabitants of different portions of Europe, follow this triumphal car. Yesterday the procession paid its visit to the Tuileries, and, according to ancient tradition, their Majesties and the Prince Imperial appeared on the balcony of the Cour de I'Horloge, and were enthusiastically cheered. Her Majesty wore a cloak of Algerian gold tissue, and a bonnet of pale blue crape. The most brilliant fite as yet given this season has been the bal-costumi at the Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres. The Marquise de Moustier put aside her Legitimist exclusion, and did the honours to the Imperialist guests with all the grace and cordiality of a grande dame of the olden times. Their Majesties were present, in domino, and remained to a late hour, but were not recognised by any of the guests. Prince Napoleon wore a Venetian cloak, and appeared un- masked. To describe the brilliant costumes of the beauty of the fair debutantes, whose first appearance in the great world has been postponed till this long-expected fete came off, is simply impossible. There was a greater number of dominoes than is usual on these occasions. The truth is, the irresistible love of amusement inborn in every French woman at times conquers vanity, and induces them to lay aside the tempta- tion of attracting admiration by a brilliant toilet for the sake of indulging in witty repartees and malicious remarks, by 240 THE TRAPPIST MODEL FARM which the freedom of a domino enables them to disturb the peace of mind of their dearest friend. This somewhat cruel sport is the delight of every French femme de monde, and as bal-costum^s are rare events in the annals of the season, they improve the occasion when it presents itself. March 6th. The Mois Agricole of this month contains an interesting account of the Trappist Model Farm, founded by the monks of Staiieli, near the village of Cheragas, in Algeria, celebrated for the variety of odoriferous plants which grow wild in the neighbourhood. Marshal Bugeaud granted the Trappists i,2(X) hectares of land in 1843. Two years afterwards a sum of 300,000 f. (;^ 1 2,000) was spent on the buildings of the mon- astery, which are not yet finished, although ;^20,ooo has been expended on them. The stock of animals on the farm is magnificent. The Trappists have cows which yield sixteen quarts of milk per day, which is an enormous quantity in Algeria, where the native cows do not yield as much as a goat in France. Besides milch cows, there are 50 head of black cattle, 400 sheep, and as many pigs on the farm. Another farm produce is 600 kilos, of honey, produced annually. They require more land, however, as they have not sufficient for cereal crops. There are 108 monks, of which 22 belong to the choir, and 10 are priests. Twenty ordinary workmen are regularly employed at the convent, besides any poor infirm people, or convalescents recently discharged from hospital, who may ask for a day's work. None are ever refused, \yhen the Emperor visited Algeria, he wished to visit Staiieli. He was received by the Superior, mitre on head, at the threshold of the monastery, who invited him to luncheon. During this repast the Abb6 desired that the table should be served with the dishes which compose the ordinary fare of the Trappist brothers — that is, vegetables boiled in water and without any seasoning. " The rules of our order prevent us taking any other species of food ; but our monks are so much in the habit of living on these simple SOLDIER-MONKS 241 dishes that they do not perceive the want of seasoning." " Have you tasted them, monseigneur ? " inquired the Emperor, turning to the Bishop of Algiers, who was next to him. " Yes, sire," replied his lordship, " I tasted them once, and it was quite enough." The Emperor was not a little surprised to hear that there were a dozen old soldiers of the Garde Impdriale among the monks of Staiieli. He spoke most kindly to one of them, who had been selected to be his guide. " Are you pleased with your life at La Trappe ? " "Very much pleased, sire" The Emperor appeared sur- prised, but he was still more amused when he heard of the conversation one of them had had with General Fleury, who was the colonel of the regiment in which he served. " What put it into your head," inquired the General, " to turn Trappist ? I did not know that a regiment of Guards was a preparation for the cloister. I certainly never suggested the idea to you." " I beg your pardon. General, it was you." " I ! How is that ? " " You taught me discipline, so that of the convent did not appear too severe for me." The General laughed heartily, and said he had never dreamt of being master of novices. March jth. An amusing adventure occurred to a foreign gentleman who received an invitation to the State Ball, which took place last Wednesday at the Tuileries. Being a stranger, he naturally inquired whether any particular dress was required on these occasions, when he was informed that he must appear en uniforme, which expression does not alone imply military, naval, or civil costume, but likewise signifies court dress. The gentleman, however, not aware of this, pro- ceeded to a tailor on the Boulevards, and, seeing a splendid suit of blue, magnificently embroidered with gold, thought he could not do better than order a similar suit wherein to make his appearance at the ball. On his arrival at the palace he was much gratified by the respect with which he was received, and not a little flattered by being ushered into R 242 AN UNFORTUNATE COSTUME the presence of their Majesties by the private entrh, crowded at that moment by several personages whose dress was similar to his own. He remarked that several of them looked at him with some surprise, and evidently inquired among each other who he was ; but seeing that they all looked gentlemen and persons of a certain age, he innocently congratulated himself on having done the right thing. A few moments, however, had scarcely elapsed when an official, in a gorgeous scarlet and gold uniform, came up to him, and in a somewhat peremptory tone requested him to follow him into the next room. When beyond earshot of the company he perceived that the said dignitary had summoned two gentlemen in black, one of whom inquired his name and address, and by what means he had entered the palace. Nothing was easier to reply to than the said queries. " If your statements be true, why disguise yourself as a senator?" Writing of balls reminds one of the Duke d'Ossuna's ball at St. Petersburg last week, of which Madame de obligingly read a description at her reception of yesterday. The Duke is the wealthiest man in Europe ; his property extends from Cadiz to Trim. He is Spanish Ambassador to Russia, but his salary is distributed among the poor at Madrid by his agent, an ex-Minister. He wished to give a ball last week at his Embassy, but nothing the Russian capital could produce was considered worthy in his idea of appearing at the party. The Duke telegraphed, to Paris for lOO footmen, 200 mattres d'hotel, and engaged 300 moujicks to work under these higher functionaries. On the ball night icx) horsemen and 150 of his private guard did duty outside the Embassy. This little party cost 80,000 f., of which 10,000 f. were spent in roses, violets, and camellias. A rival millionaire, the Marquis of Hertford, has just given M. Miellet 45,000 f. (;£'i,8oo) for a clock in buhl, the works of which are considered as chefs d'ceuvre of workmanship. THE PRINCP^S RIDING-MASTER 243 March nth. It appears from the following anecdote that the Prince Imperial is kept in remarkably good order by his tutors. He was taking his riding lessons the other day ; the child rode round the ring leaning to the off side of his pony instead of towards the centre of the circle. His equerry, M. Bachon, desired him to ride as usual. The Prince paid no attention. " Monseigneur," said M. Bachon, " I beg of you to ride in your proper position, otherwise I shall have to take you off your pony." The child did not seem to hear. M. Bachon went up to him, stopped the pony, and quietly lifted the Prince off his saddle. Monseigneur coolly lay flat down on the sand, and there he stayed. M. Bachon told him that if he did not get up he would make the pony walk over him. Upon this he got up, and was very obedient during the rest of the lesson. However, the Emperor came into the school just as the scene was nearly over. As soon as the child saw his father — " Papa, Bachon forced me to " " What ! You say Bachon ? " " Yes, papa ; Bachon." " Say Monsieur Bachon," replied the Emperor. The child did not utter another word. The Emperor, on hearing from the equerry what had happened, informed his son that M. Bachon had been perfectly right, and had acted in accordance with his express orders. Next day the Prince was out riding, and suddenly stopped his horse and said, " M. Bachon, will you allow me to call you ' Bachon ' when we are alone ? " " No, monseigneur ; your father forbid you to do so." " Yes, but when we are quite alone nobody will know anything about it." " Well, yes ; but only when we are quite alone." March i^th. Gratitude and generosity are certainly not the distinctive features of the French character. Here is a man, a poet, a romance writer, a statesman, too, who in 1848 saved the 244 LAMARTINE country from anarchy — his name Lamartine, and that name known from one end of the globe to the other. Not only is it synonymous with poetry of the highest order, but it speaks of earnest faith, of honesty of purpose, and of un- daunted courage. Lamartine is now seventy-six years of age, and lives in a miserable abode in the Rue Cambac^r^s ; he works day and night, with the hope of preventing his rapacious creditors from seizing, acre by acre, wall by wall, the antique manor of St. Point, where his ancestors are buried, which estate the old man clings to with the tenacity of age and old associations. To preserve this remnant of the family property, the poor writer works out his brains, but at seventy-six it is no longer easy to write ; age has well-nigh frozen the sources of thought, which no longer flow on with the clearness and rapidity of twenty or even ten years ago. The Emperor asks France to give the author of Jocelyn, the poet of France, the statesman who in '48 assuaged the worst passions of an infuriated mob, a national testimonial. Surely this is but common justice ! Yet there is not a newspaper, whether city or provincial, whose columns do not teem with violent invectives at this act of generosity, and who do not abuse the illustrious poet whom it is their good pleasure to represent as a common beggar, constantly asking for alms. It is scarcely worthy of a great nation thus to grudge a reward to one of its greatest names. In 1848 Lamartine stood at the helm of government, calm, collected, and fearless, while the angry surges of a turgid ocean of revolutionists roared around him. Who can read without a thrill of horror, and then a glow of admiration, his encounter with the deputy Lagrange? This maniac, whom the events of February, 1848, had literally deprived of his reason, rushed up to his colleague and demanded not only proscription, but the guillotine. " You shall have neither," calmly replied Lamar- tine. "You refuse to concede proscription — then die!" shouted the deputy, drawing a couple of loaded pistols from his breast-pocket. " Your demands will not be granted, and LAMARTINFS SACRIFICES 245 you dare not fire at me," quietly responded the poet-states- man, as he stared at Lagrange, who was howling like a wild beast, actually tearing his clothes and the very flesh from his bones in his mad excitement. I need not remind you that during the nefarious year 1848 Lamartine proved to the world that he had as much courage in his soul as poetry in his heart. In the presence of the fatal red flag and of the revolutionary mob the orator neither evinced weakness nor fear. " Citizens," he exclaimed, as he addressed the infuriated multitude from the balcony of the H6tel de Ville, " that red flag which you are now promenading about the streets of Paris has only been round the Champ de Mars, dabbled in the blood of the people ; whilst the tricolour standard has gone round the world carrying within its folds the name, the glory, and the liberty of our country." It is right to recall these noble and patriotic words at a moment when France, stultified by egotism, makes such a fuss about granting the paltry sum of ;^i6,ooo sterling to the aged poet, patriot, and statesman. Be it furthermore remembered that Lamartine sacrificed a magnificent fortune, broke up a splendid establishment, and dismissed a host of family re- tainers, in his devotion to his faith. On a wild and raging sea of furious men he paured the oil of his wondrous eloquence, until the surging elements of fratricidal war melted away in peace. That Lamartine has been reckless, over-generous, and a spendthrift, no one can deny ; but he was led away by a good heart and a generous spirit. " I am dying of hunger," wrote one day to him a gentleman who has since become a great personage. " Well," replied Lamartine, "here are five hundred francs ; forgive me if the sum is so trifling." Dargaud, one of his most attached friends, perfectly maddened by seeing him perpetually the victim of intriguing applicants, one day made his appearance at the little house, Rue Cambac^res, which the poet still inhabits, and said, "Give me all the keys. I intend to remain here as factotum ; and I shall keep the money." Next morning Dargaud went out, taking the keys of the secretaire with him. During his short 246 PARIS IN MUD absence a lady, in the habit of collecting for the poor of Madeleine, rang and explained the object of her visit. Madame de Lamartine ordered the servants to break open the secretaire, and, taking 800 f., which were there in bank- notes, slipped them into the aristocratic hand of Madame la QuSteuse. Her husband looked at her with a smile on his lips, and played with his spaniels. That day there was not a franc in the house to buy dinner with. I am told that the allocation of ;£" 16,000 proposed by the Emperor will meet with as much opposition in the Chambers as it has met with in the Press. One deputy, alluding to M. de Lamartine's line of conduct during the Revolution of 1848, went so far as to say, " He is an incendiary who became a fireman in order to extinguish the very fire which he himself had kindled." March 22nd. To give an idea of the weather we have had, and of its results, I need only say that the day before yesterday the Emperor, who started from the Tuileries in his waggonette (which he drives himself), attended by General Fleury, went to the Exhibition, and found the circulation quite inter- rupted by carts, waggons, a perfect sea of mud, and small mountains of stones. The Emperor gave it up, and next tried the Rue St. Dominique. The case was yet more hopeless. The street is cut up, and reminds one of the descriptions one has read of towns in a state of siege. His Majesty had nothing for it but to turn his horses' heads and try the Avenue de la Motte Piquet. This was rather worse than the two preceding means of access. Unaccustomed to allow himself to be conquered by difficulties, he drove off in the direction of the Rue de Crenelle, but at the corner of the Rue de la Comete, his waggonette was well-nigh upset against a perfect barricade of stones, scaffolding, and every sort and kind of impediment against progress. The Emperor laughed heartily at his disasters; he got down (leaving his THE "RED, WHITE AND BLUE" 247 whip in the carriage), discussed the state of things with some of the householders who happened to be standing at their doors, listened to the complaints of the injuries they had sus- tained in consequence of the carelessness of the municipal authorities, and, after hearing all they had to say, got into the waggonette again and drove home to the Tuileries. This morning, by six o'clock, the inhabitants of the Rue de Crenelle were not a little amazed to see a regiment, not of soldiers, but of five hundred workmen, pickaxe and shovel in hand, take possession of their street. In a few hours the street was as clear as the Rue de la Paix, and in the afternoon His Majesty might have been seen driving his waggonette again, attended by General Fleury, along the Rue de Crenelle, loudly cheered by groups of its inhabitants, as well they might. There is nothing in this world like seeing after things oneself, as the Emperor appears to think. His son is better, and we hope the result of the last operation will complete his recovery. April 2^th. The Exhibition of the Champ de Mars is not the only one in Paris at this moment which attracts the curiosity of visitors. The lilliputian ship, the Red, White and Blue is now at the Pompeiian Palace, Avenue Marigny, in charge of Captain John Hudson and his companion M. Franck, who give most interesting details of their miraculous voyage across the Atlantic in a cockle-shell of two tons and a half It is an iron boat, its mast and rigging exactly the same as those of a frigate, each detail being in perfect proportion. When one sees the tiny boat, one can scarcely credit the fact that two men in full possession of their senses could have started on so mad an enterprise. It has been repaired and repainted, and now presents the coquettish appearance of a pleasure-boat. Captain Hudson not intending to return to America in the same hazardous manner, the city of Paris will probably purchase the Red, White and Blue for the Mus6e de 248 PLANS OF FORTRESSES Marine. Meanwhile, the fairy craft must be removed from the Pompeiian Palace, seeing that the palace is about to be transformed into a travellers' club, an establishment much wanted in this gay metropolis, where English tourists especi- ally miss so much the luxury of a club. The situation of the Pompeiian Palace in the Champs Elysees, and therefore in the centre of the English quartier, as well as the disposition of the reception-rooms, make it peculiarly suitable for this purpose. It is to be fitted up with the most scrupulous regard to comfort and utility. Another exhibition which attracts many visitors at present, chiefly on account of the political situation of affairs, is that of the plans-reliefs of all the fortified places in France, now to be seen at the Hotel des Invalides. It is an awful undertaking for ignoramuses such as myself to be taken in tow, as I had the honour of being, by a naval officer whose sole dream in life is of gabions, and bastions, and trenches, and stockades. To such, the six galleries and the hundred and five plans convey a foretaste of paradise. They are beautifully executed and extremely picturesque. The first which attracts attention is Grenoble, its citadel, the River Drac, and Mount Rachais, which rises 840 metres above the Isere. Ten years were em- ployed in the construction of this model, which cost a fabulous sum. There is a plan next to this whose chief merit to the uninitiated is that it takes to pieces, and, therefore, a child present suggested the luminous idea that it would make a capital toy, the said toy being the fort of the Scheld, with its subterranean staircase of 1,774 steps, hollowed out of solid rock. This staircase, which connects the upper and lower fort, takes to pieces, and can be carried away at the good pleasure of the inhabitants. The plan of Strasbourg is a marvellous work, including the entire city and the sur- rounding country, the citadel, the advanced works, tljie course of the Rhine, the railroad, the Robertsau, the bridge of Kehl, the cemetery with its lilliputian tombs and its microscopic crosses. Above the city rises the cathedral, — and the copy here is executed with exquisite accuracy and detail — the GOUNOD'S "ROMEO AND JULIET" 249 lacework of the double spire is a perfect chef d'ceuvre of carving. If you have the strong weakness from which my naval companion suffered for sieges, you can indulge your fancy by studying Sebastopol, done after Marshal Niel's designs ; Antwerp, likewise, with its dismantled outworks ; Rome, with its Villa Garibaldi, the field works, the Trastevere, and the part of the city which lies on the border of the Tiber, from the Sixtine bridge to Mount Aventinus ; Constantina also, with its Oriental architecture, the ravine of Rummel, its cascade and its fortress, and the famous rock whence light- headed wives are ruthlessly precipitated in the name of morality and the Prophet. [Heavens ! if a similar rock and a similar custom existed in the neighbourhood of Paris !] Corfu, Luxemburg, Gibraltar, Cyprus, and Tournay, are likewise here, and a plan of the whole of Switzerland, with its lakes and its mountains, its valleys, its forests, and its precipices. All this in carton p&ti, and about as high as the table. Although an ant would cross the Lake of Geneva in two minutes, and a fly would traverse the glaciers of Monte Rosa and reach the Jungfrau in one, still the proportions have been so accurately preserved, and all has been executed with so much artistic skill, one cannot help experiencing a feeling of pleasure at retracing the scene of one's varied adventures in that lovely country on this model, and one begins to dream again of the fair Berneoise, who kissed hands to us from the upper window of the picturesque chalet, where we spent such pleasant hours in our boyhood days, when every rosy-cheeked milkmaid assumed to our verdant imagination the poetic form of a Hebe, if not a Venus. April 2()th. The first night of Gounod's Romeo and Juliet at the Theatre Lyrique was an immense success. Madame Car- valho was in splendid voice, and received a perfect ovation. The history of the composer is interesting. It is related of him that as a boy at college every possible effort was made 250 GOUNOD AS A BOY to destroy his musical genius. His professor, M. Poirson, was in despair. His parents intended him for the Ecole Normale. On its being announced to him that he was to go up for the necessary examination, the boy burst into tears, and steadily refused to continue his classical studies. His mother appealed to M. Poirson, and implored him to recall her boy to what she considered to be his duty. The stern professor accordingly sent for him, and in the same tone said, "So you wish to be a musician?" "Yes, sir," replied the terrified boy. "But that is not a profession." " What, sir, the profession of Beethoven, of Mozart, of Gluck, is not a profession?" "But," interrupted his interrogator, " you must remember that Mozart at your age had already ' composed music worth publishing, whereas you have only scribbled notes on paper. However, here is your last chance — if you really are a musician, you can set words to music." The old man copied out the poem " Joseph." " A peine au sortir de I'enfance." The boy rushed up to his school desk, and, after studying the subject, wrote an air and accompaniment, which he brought back to his professor and showed to him, pale with emotion, as he felt that on his judgment his future career depended. He sang it to the old man, who listened in amazement, and led him to his draw- ing-room, where he made him play the accompaniment on a piano. Those present were enraptured by the beauty of the composition, and it was at once decided that young Gounod must follow the bent of the undoubted genius with which he was gifted. April lOth. A curious concert took place yesterday evening at the Petite Bourse — that is, at the opening of the Passage Jouffray — where the flaneurs of the Great Bourse congre- gate to discuss the news of the day. It was pouring rain, therefore the crowd was considerable. Two miserable Savoyards were vainly endeavouring to collect a few sous IMPROMPTU CONCERTS 251 by scraping on their villainous violins, when MM. Leonard and Weniawski, who happened to be among the group of newsmongers, took their instruments and played, to the amazement of their audience, some of the exquisite airs with which they have enlivened the musical world of Paris this season. Needless to remark that a perfect shower of silver fell into the caps of the poor little Savoyards, who little anticipated so rich a harvest. A similar impromptu concert once took place at Halle, near Leipsic. The great French violinist, Seligmann, observed a blind beggar vainly endeavouring to make a few groschen by his performance on a cracked violin in the market-place of Halle, and with an impulse of true good-nature took the instrument out of his hand and quickly collected a crowd of listeners, who were too happy to contribute to the old beggar's relief while listening to the marvellous performance. M. Seligmann returned the violin to the old man, whose only expression of gratitude consisted in, " Now, sir, won't you give me some- thing for having lent you my instrument ? " Such is human gratitude ! The construction of a new market-place at the corner of the Place d'ltalie and the Rue Mouffetard has caused the disappearance of one of the most curious and picturesque establishments in Paris, styled the Cabaret a Saint Michel. In the palmy days of the July Monarchy and of Vidocq's rule at the Prefecture, the said cabaret was the scene of many a razzia, and gave the myrmidons of the police more trouble than almost any similar place of meeting in the city. The interior arrangements were peculiar. In one of the back rooms was a camp-bed, on which were stretched those who during the course of the evening became dead drunk. This room was called the Morgue. Above the door was a coarse painting representing a giant conquering a promiscuous-looking beast, whose type it would be difficult to define, beneath an inscription, " Au grand Saint Michel." Du reste, this cabaret was specially patronised by the chiffon- niers of the Faubourg St. Marcel, who considered it as their 252 THE CABARET A SAINT MICHEL club, and who established a set of rules which they no more attempted to break through than if they had been trained at the Reform or at the Carlton to the ways and customs of club life. The chiffonniers, who possessed a box in a good condition, as well as a rake with a clean handle and shining steel, had a salle to themselves. This was called the House of Lords (Chambre du Peers). Those whose implements were old and worn were only admitted to the House of Commons (Chambre des Deputes), whereas the lower class, who, having no box, carried away whatever they gathered in a mere towel, were consigned to the Chambre des Pro- letaires. However aristocratic and exclusive these rules, the various classes never quarrelled or condescended to mix with each other. They ate in their separate salles, their knives and forks being chained to the various tables. The beverage dignified by the name of wine was served in an earthen pot called "le petit pere noir." The peculiar idiosyncrasy of this cabaret, however, had considerably disappeared since the Empire. June i^th. I was present at the first performance given by Madame Ristori at the Theatre des Italiens when she appeared in Elisabetta d' Ingkilterra, and, although it was the night of the ball given at the Prussian Embassy, the house was well filled. Ristori is magnificent as Queen Elisabeth — full of dignity, passion, and fire. At the close of the second act, when brandishing her father's sword, she contemptuously throws the scabbard at the feet of Philip II.'s ambassador and swears to undertake a war of extermination in Spain, she was overwhelmed with thunders of applause, and bouquets were showered at her feet. In the third act, when she allows her temper to burst forth against Essex, she made the whole house thrill under the excitement of THE FIRST NIGHT OF HERNANI 253 her anger. In the fourth act one almost shares the tortures the Queen undergoes in presence of the unbending firmness of Essex. The fifth act reproduces Delaroche's tableau, with which we are all familiar in the gallery of Luxembourg. The Queen is aged, and death is at her bedside. Ristori altogether was magnificent, deck, who acted the part of Essex, was much and deservedly applauded. Ristori's brother will be a first-rate actor; he took a minor part, and did it admirably. The house was filled by the first-class critics of the day — such as Th^ophile Gautier, Hippolite Lucas, Alexandre Dumas and his daughter, Emile de Girardin, etc. Giacometti, the poet, who wrote Elisabetta, is now engaged on a piece to be entitled Marie Antoinette, especially for Madame Ristori. The subject was suggested by the great tragMienne, who will study the new rdle during her eight months' tour in America, and return to Paris prepared to perform it. June 21st. Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Aosta were present last night at the first night of Hemani, at the Th^dtre Frangais, in company with Princess Clothilde. The Grand Duchess Marie occupied a box opposite that of the Prince. It would be impossible to exaggerate the scene of excitement which the house represented on the rising of the curtain. There was literally not one available spot unoccupied whereon standing room could be found. Well- known writers, distinguished artists, were too happy to find a place in the orchestra, in the couloirs, or next to the rmnpe. The crowd without was as dense as the crowd within. The cafis in the neighbourhood were crammed by men connected with the press, taking notes and receiving reports of the impression made on the audience. Mdlle. Favart, Moubant, etc., acted admirably, but never was the public in better temper or more determined to be pleased. For ten minutes the audience, unmindful of the etiquette which forbids the 254 SAINT LOUIS' PSALTER actors to reappear on the stage of the Frangais during the course of the piece, called — nay, shouted — for the re- appearance of Moubant at the end of the first act. In fact, there has seldom been witnessed such a scene as that of last night. The cries for Victor Hugo were as enthusiastic as though we could have hoped their echoes reached the ears of the poet. In 1830 his name could scarcely have been repeated with more genuine enthusiasm than it was last night by the audience at the Thditre Frangais. The decorations and scenery for last night's representation alone cost 50,000 f. (;£'2,ooo). June 22nd. Antiquarians will learn with pleasure that a Psalter, once the property of Saint Louis, has been discovered in the library of the University of Leyden. That excellent monarch seems to have been rich in copies of the psalms, since one Psautier in which he inscribed his royal name in particularly illegible characters is to be seen in the Mus^e du Souverains at the Louvre, and there is another in the Imperial Library. The copy found at Leyden bears the inscription : " Ce psautier est a Monseigneur Saint Loys, Roy de France, au quel il aprist en enfance." June 26th. The death of Dr. Trousseau has revived many interesting anecdotes of his early days. When but fourteen he was attending a course of lectures on magnetism given in a small country village, where it happened that Dr. Bretonneau was recruiting his health. A workman whose sight had been seriously injured by a splinter of iron having entered his eye, was attended by the doctor, who, with all his skill, utterly failed in extracting the small fragment embedded in the mass of inflamed flesh. The boy Trousseau heard of the case, and returning from a lecture on the power PAYMENT IN DIAMONDS 255 of the magnet asked leave to try its success. As the experiment could not produce pain, leave was granted, and in a few seconds the future prince de la science showed the iron splinter attached to the head of the magnet. Dr. Breton- neau, struck by the boy's intelligent application of the facts revealed to him in the lecture, adopted him as his pupil, with what results we all know. During the last two months Dr. Trousseau pointed out daily to his class of hospital students the progress of the disease which carried him off, and a few days before his death inspected the tomb he had ordered to be erected for himself. He said the masons had done their work well ; and, after paying them, drove to an under- taker's, where he arranged as to his funeral, settling the amount it was to cost, remarking as he did so that relations were usually overcharged, and he was determined his family should only pay what was right. August 21 St. The Duke of Brunswick, of diamond notoriety, has a rival, not only in eccentricity, but likewise in the extent of his col- lection of precious stones. M. Negroin is the name of this happy individual. He lately called on Me. Yves, a well-known notary, and requested of him to look out for an hotel, the price of which was not to exceed ;^ 16,000 sterling. Me. Yves, having found an hotel which suited the great man's fancy, proceeded to make out the deed of sale. On the day fixed for payment the man of law was somewhat startled by re- ceiving a handful of diamonds instead of the gold pieces he was accustomed to. "What difference can it make?" said the nabob. " Send for an expert ; he will tell you that my stones are of the purest water. I will deposit for the value of a million, if you wish, at the bank, in order that he may select those he prefers." The verification took place, the diamonds were acknowledged to be of the purest water, and thus the bargain was concluded. A few days after this curious transaction M. Negroin called again on Me. Yves, and begged of him to purchase a country-house for him within a few 2S6 A ZOUAVE QUACK miles of Paris. There were to be gardens, hot-houses, a park, etc. The price was to vary from ;^2 5,000 to ;^30,ooo sterling. "Will you pay, sir, for this estate in diamonds ?" "Certainly," replied M. Negroin. " I possess several millions' worth. I do not wish to dispose of them just now, because there is a fall in their price both in the Paris and London markets ; but those who receive these stones in payment are fortunate, for their value is greater than their current price." Me. Yves, although tolerably accustomed to deal with eccentric cus- tomers, declares he never met with so curious a specimen of humanity as M. Negroin. The great novelty of the day, and the subject of all con- versation, is the miraculous gift of healing possessed by a Zouave of the name of Jacob, who, by the mere exercise of his will, performs daily the most extraordinary cures on paralysed persons who for years have been unable to move without assistance. The Zouave receives no payment for the boon he confers ; he is perfectly unassuming in manner, and does not attempt to explain by what means he accomplishes the cures he undoubtedly effects. His regiment is quartered at Versailles, but, in consequence of the difficulty the poor experienced in reaching the only portion of the barrack in which he was allowed to receive his patients, the Count de Chateauvillain, himself a paralytic, offered him the use of several rooms in his hotel, where Zouave Jacob daily administers relief to thousands who flock from all parts. The Count publishes in the La Petite Presse a plain statement of his own experience of the efficacy of Jacob's influence. He drove in his carriage, accompanied by his wife, to the manu- factory of M. Du Noyet, where Jacob was engaged with several poor and disabled patients. The Count, who had been paralysed for years, was supported by his footman and a workman, who obligingly lent him his arm from his carriage to the salle, where he was allowed to take a place in the circle of the sick surrounding Jacob. Persons were being trans- ported on litters or carried in men's arms to his presence, many being so utterly helpless as to be unable to sit upright, JACOB THE ZOUAVE 257 and only able to support themselves by leaning against each other. As soon as the room was full Jacob entered and said, " Let no one speak until I question him, or I shall go away." Perfect silence ensued. The Zouave then went from one sick person to another, telling each exactly the disease from which he or she was suffering. Then to the paralytics he simply said, " Rise." The Count, being of the number, arose, and that without the slightest difficulty. In about twenty minutes Jacob dismissed the crowd. M. de Chateauvillain walked to his carriage without the slightest difficulty, and when his wife wished to express her gratitude to Jacob he replied that he had no time to listen, for he had other patients to attend to. Medical men are themselves taken by surprise, but the facts are not contradicted. August 22nd. The Zouave guMsseur is decidedly the lion of the day. The importance attached by the public, as well as by the Press, to the soi-disant cures operated by this private affords a striking indication of the temper of the public appetite in this country towards supernatual agency. France is a Catholic nation, and cannot do without miracles. Its faith would die away were it not for the weeping virgins and Zouave gu^risseurs. To many the facts accomplished by the said Zouave appear as a delusive farce and extravagance of superstition ; but to many more I am assured it is a serious and all-absorbing faith. Scores of people in Paris, as well as Versailles, are actually made crazy by the miracles operated by Monsieur Le Zouave. He has created the greatest curiosity, and hundreds of men and women of character and ability now seek opportuities to witness and investigate phenomena produced by Jacob Le Zouave. If this Jacob is a mere impostor, which many persons broadly assert, it is nevertheless confessed by candid and careful investigators that he is most successful in concealing his imposture. The fact is that Jacob, disdaining the former manifestations of spiritualism, which merely consisted in 258 JACOB'S "CURES" rocking, lifting, rapping, or tapping, has had the good sense to turn his mind towards things of ordinary and tangible utility. He does not pretend to introduce you to Socrates and Solomon, to put you in communication with Voltaire or Alfred de Musset, and offer to describe to you the scenery of the planet Jupiter or the star of Aldebaran, but he, more practical and matter of fact, undertakes to rid you of rheuma- tism, gout, amaurosis, palsy, etc. For startling effects, the phenomena which he produces are worthy of the age of Michael Scott. I gave an account of them in one of my last letters. It now remains to be known by what means or influence he manages to perform such miracles. The Figaro, who the other day gave a most flourishing description of the prodigies accomplished by Jacob, now writes as follows : " As long as the Moniteur does not insert the name of the Zouave as Dean of the College of Physicians, as long as the invalides still make use of crutches, I shall still persist in believing that the Zouaves are more fitted to destroy than to cure men. Parisians are too apt to believe in any foolishness of this kind. Were we to announce that Markowski had dis- covered the way to fly through the air like a swallow, and that on Sunday next he intends dancing a polka at fifteen million feet above the Arc de Triomphe, in the neighbour- hood of the Great Bear, on that very day, and at the appointed hour, forty thousand Parisians would, with their telescopes, invade the Champs Elys^es." Meanwhile the crowd of vehicles, from the coronetted carriage of a peer to the cart of a costermonger, which block up the entrance to the Rue de la Roquette, has so effectually stopped all thoroughfare that the police have been obliged to post up notices informing the public that the stances are discontinued for the present. It is reported, however, that Jacob is going to establish himself at the "Cirque Napoleon," Boulevard du Temple. Yesterday he only arrived at the Rue de la Roquette at three o'clock, yet the crowd was so dense that all access to the shops in the street was utterly impossible. FEUILLETONS 259 August 2,otk. You are aware that the Situation, an anti-Prussian paper, was started by M. Hollander, a name unknown in the literary world, but well known in certain official circles. Alexandre Dumas, one evening last spring, was engaged in writing his Blancs et Blues when he was surprised by the future editor, who abruptly asked the author of Monte Cristo, " Are you on the side of the Austrians or the Prussians ? " "On neither side," replied Dumas. "Prussians represent brute force, whilst Austrians represent hereditary despotism." " But," inquired M. Hollander, " if the Austrian Government granted an increase of liberty, would you write a novel in their defence ? " " Not only would I do so, but I would glorify the Emperor. An Emperor who bestows a constitu- tion on his Austrian subjects after Solferino, and on his Hungarian people after Sadowa, appears to be a remarkably intelligent man." "Well," said M. Hollander, "I want a novel entitled Terreur Prussienne d Frankfort; will you undertake it ? " " Yes, on condition that if I have ruffians in the story I shall invent them myself." " Agreed. I re- quire sixty feuilletons, of 400 lines each — 84,000 lines in all." " But if the story only makes fifty-eight feuilletons ? " " I require sixty." Dumas took out his pen, and calculated sixty feuilletons at 400 lines each, 3 1 letters each line — that is, 744,000 letters. " When do you require the work ? " " By the fifteenth June?" "That's too soon. In the first place, I have not the necessary documents." "We supply them," said M. Hollander. " I grant fifteen days more, till the first July, at twelve." "Agreed." It was presented as the clock struck twelve on the ist July. Dumas says he never wrote a work that gave him so much trouble or that pleased him so much. The farce of the Zouave guMsseur has been played out. Marshal Foray is considerably the worse for the fall he got 26o BAUDELAIRE'S FUNERAL in attempting to throw away his crutches in obedience to Jacob's word of command. The whole thing has proved another monstrous humbug, such as was the Davenport Brothers. Whether the man believes in himself I cannot take on myself to say ; but Paris has ceased to believe in him. I have heard a bookbinder state that at a recent meeting of the magnetisers of the Faubourg St. Honor^ to which the Zouave Jacob was invited, he (the bookbinder), a true Parisian, challenged this soi-disant worker of miracles, and called him a charlatan ; he furthermore informed him that if he was able to cure the sick and banish suffering, he was willing to administer to him a remarkably well-dealt kick, with the hope that he could instantly relieve himself of the pain thereby inflicted. This polite offer, I need not say, was declined by the Zouave. September 2nd. This morning, at ten o'clock, took place the funeral of Charles Baudelaire, one of the most gifted writers of the present generation. He dies, however, in a madhouse, for this reason, perhaps : that he allowed his intellect to descend into those abysses which, according to De Quincey's own words, " have, like the sea, swallowed treasures without end, that no diving-bell will bring up again." Baudelaire made his name by his first work, Fleurs du Mai, as well as by his translation of Edgar Poe's works, which he popularised, and which are now well known to the great majority of the read- ing world of France. Baudelaire was a dandy of the Beau Brummel order ; for many years the exquisites of the Boule- vard des Italiens watched his appearance among them in order to ascertain what was the last new thing in ties and waistcoats. This weak point of his character is difficult to understand when one studies his writings, more especially his analysis of the works of De Quincey, wherein he displays a penetration and broad appreciation of the genius of the opium-eater strangely inconsistent with his trivial devotion to external circumstances. CONVICTS AT TOULON 261 September i^th. Berezowski, who attempted the life of the Emperor, arrived at Toulon on the nth. As soon as he entered the precincts of the bagne, the grey-and-yellow dress of a cellular prisoner was taken off, and the red jacket and green cap worn by those condemned for life were put on. The un- fortunate young man was then taken to the prison forge — his feet were already swollen and painful from the long march he had just had. A heavy chain was fastened on his right leg by a massive ring ; he did not appear to suffer during the operation, and quickly rose from the recumbent position in which it is always performed, taking up the chain in his hand, which otherwise drags on the ground. The head was shaved, as is the custom, in squares — that is, one square perfectly bare and on the next the hair is left about half an inch long. In spite of this disfiguring process and the green cap, it was remarked that young Berezowski had a certain look of distinction, and even a gentle, intelligent expression of countenance. One of the gaolers, who was not aware that his fingers had been injured, asked him what was the matter with his hand. " It was the pistol," he replied ; " I was cured in three weeks by the application of cold water." While his ten companions were having their irons riveted on, Berezowski remained quietly in a corner of the forge, and spoke to no one. He will not be chained to another convict, as is usually the case, but will remain in one of the convicts' rooms chained to a triangle iron, which is fastened to the camp bed of the prisoners, and through which a bar is slipped, thus preventing their moving beyond the length of their chain. In a month, unless the wretched young man first turns mad, he is to be sent to New Caledonia. 262 FLOURED SHEETS September i^th. The last gossip from the chateaux of the great world is a practical joke played on the Marquis de Gallifett, husband of the celebrated beauty whose many fascinations are said to have captivated the heir-apparent to the throne. The Marquis, some weeks since, went on a visit to a friend's chateau, where a large party of ladies of rank were as- sembled. On the morning after arrival he was much sur- prised to discover that he was covered with flour, which had been sifted over his sheets. Naturally the heat of the bed had made this flour adhere to his body, and he therefore bore a strong resemblance to a miller. The Marquis summoned his servant, and desired him to scrape the flour off every part of his body, and keep it with the utmost care. At breakfast he made no remark on the strange circumstance, and re- mained a week in company with his fair enemies. The whole party reassembled a fortnight later at a country-house in another department. M. de Gallifett, on arriving, entered the drawing-room with a magnificent cake, the beauty of whose decorations excited the admiration of all the ladies, who immediately insisted on tasting it. It was pronounced a chef doeuvre of culinary art, and possessed a peculiar flavour the ladies declared was quite new to them. " That is not unlikely," replied the Marquis, " as it is made of the flour sifted over my sheets at the Chateau de ." September 2'jth. A valuable work has just appeared, and one which will produce an impression on society in general. Madame la Comtesse de Bassanville has entered the literary arena as authoress of a Guide de CMmonial. Henceforth no luckless wight need tremble lest he should commit an awkward mis- take in the presence of Emperors, ministers, or other high personages, if unaccustomed to the precincts of palaces, and COURT ETIQUEITE 263 compelled to seek an audience from a crowned head. He has only to be armed with the volume in question, and he may confidently brave all the gold-coated chamberlains in Europe. The amount of genuflexions to be performed before reaching the Emperor are curious to read. From the salle d'attente the petitioner is summoned by the chamberlain on duty, by whom he is escorted to the Emperor's salon. At the door he is to make a low bow, or sweeping curtsey, as the case may be ; walking a few steps further, he is to renew this salutation ; advancing towards the sovereign, he is to make a third, and await respectfully till he addresses him. " Oui, sire," or "Non, sire," or "Madame," is the correct mode of replying to their Majesties, who are invariably spoken to in the third person. The three bows appear to me an awfully difficult task to get through, and since this valuable work of Madame la Comtesse has appeared I have resolved to engage a dancing master and forthwith acquire the art of genuflexions. However monkey-like these laws of etiquette read, they more or less exist in every country. Unless of Imperial blood, the Czar's guests stand when they are admitted to the honour of seeing him condescend to eat. Louis XIV. decreed that at the councils, when despatches were received and opened, the ministers should remain standing, however long the council might last. Till the Revolution in France the ladies presented to the Queen kissed the edge of her dress, while duchesses were allowed to kiss the said garment at the knees. Well might Jules Noriac write a book on La Bitise Humaine! The only wonder is that he did not extend so suggestive a topic to several volumes. September 2gth. Last week the following scene occurred at the Etampes Station on the Orleans line. The train stops there for ten minutes. As it started a gentleman jumped into a carriage occupied by a lady, at whose feet lay a mastiff" of most ferocious aspect. The gentleman touched his hat, and was 264 A RAT RAREY about to replace in its case an unlighted cigar he had in his mouth, when the dog not only growled, but made a dash at him, and the lady, whose expression of countenance bore a strong resemblance to that of the dog, started from her seat, seized the cigar out of the gentleman's mouth, and threw it out of the window, remarking as she did so, " I dislike smokers — they make me ill " ; on which the gentleman, politely taking his hat off, and remarking, " I do not like mastiffs — they annoy me," took the dog by the back of the neck and pitched him out by the same route his cigar had taken. October 2nd. Last Sunday was celebrated the close of the fair at St. Cloud. The most popular of the shows of the season un- doubtedly has been I'homme aux rats, well known to the inhabitants of the Quartier Mont Parnasse, where he has held his headquarters for the last thirty years. The name of this Rarey of the rat race is Antoine Leonard. If the former succeeded in breaking in the worst- tempered brute ever created, Leonard in three weeks certainly accom- plishes the difficult task of inculcating habits of obedience on the biggest rats that ever ran. His favourite scene of action are some cross alleys in the 14th and iSth Arrondissements. His sole theatre is a sort of perch, which he sticks into the ground, and he then takes his corps de ballet out of his pocket. At his word of command the rats run up and down the perch, hang on three legs, then on two, stand on their head, and in fact go through a series of gymnastic exercises that would put Blondin himself to the blush. His crack actor is a grey rat he has had in his troupe for eleven years ; this old fellow not only obeys Leonard, but is personally attached to him. It is a most curious sight to see Leonard put him on the ground, and then walk away. The creature runs after him and invariably catches him, however many turns he may make to avoid him. An Englishman offered 50 f. for him about two years ago, but Leonard would not separate from his old and attached friend. BLESSED WATER LOST 265 October yth. The SiMe of this morning publishes a very interesting article as regards a certain Cdsar Moreno, the following details concerning whom are very curious. He is an Italian, native of Piedmont, and speaks forty-two languages. He was sent for by Victor Emmanuel. " As you are acquainted with every known patois, you can talk to my Ethiopians," said the King — the said Ethiopians having been sent over by the Viceroy of Egypt with a present of Arabian horses. The blacks were sent for. Moreno, to their amazement, addressed them in their native idiom. "What did they say to you?" inquired the King, after the negroes' departure. " That your Majesty was wrong to have had them baptised, because they have remained Mussulmans in heart and soul. Blessed water lost, sire ! " The King laughed. From his youth Moreno hated our country, and, as he was bitten by the mania for travelling, he went to India, and became aide- de-camp to Nana Sahib. At Cawnpore he had a duel with an English officer, who laid his head open with a sabre, on which Moreno levelled his revolver, and while quoting from Richard III., " Despair and die ! " shot his adversary dead. After the defeat of Nana Sahib, Moreno went to Singapore, where some Malays tell him of an island where rivers of gold and mines of diamonds are in abundance. Moreno accordingly freights a steamer, and, assisted by his Malay friends, arrives at this Eldorado, which is inhabited by a diminutive race of blacks, who look upon him much as the Aztecs did on Cortez, and he is forthwith led before their chief, whose palace is formed of the interwoven branches of a palm tree. Moreno makes himself so agreeable that no less than three of the chief's daughters are bestowed on him as wives. Meanwhile he explores the island, draws a map thereof, and, having obtained his father-in-law's leave to pay a visit to his white friends, he arrives at Florence, where he obtains an audience 266 THE TABLE OF THE MARSHALS of Victor Emmanuel, and urges him to fit out an expedition to take possession of this auriferous land. His Majesty, however, what with Garibaldi and Bismarck, has enough on hand just now. Moreno, considerably disgusted, starts for Paris, where he now is, awaiting the arrival of the Emperor and an audience which he has solicited. Whether he will obtain it is not for me to say. If he finds his proposal to extend the French possessions in the East rejected by the Cabinet of the Tuileries, Moreno starts for New York, where he flatters himself he will form a company, in whose name he will take possession of the island, dethrone his father-in-law, and establish factories, whence the superabundant and much- neglected wealth of this newly-discovered Eldorado will flow in shiploads of gold and precious stones to the shores of Europe. In conclusion, I beg to remark that Cdsar Moreno is an utter stranger to me ; I do not dispute his Columbus- like faculty of discovering hitherto unheard-of islands, but I leave the responsibility of the preceding statements wholly to Monsieur Edmond Texier, of the Sikle. October iitk. Tables may thank the spirits of the past for the amount of public attention they have occupied within the last few years. The world of strangers and enthusiasts for the first Emperor rush to Malmaison on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, not so much to inspect the souvenirs there collected of the Empress Josephine as to look at a table styled, par excellence, the table of the marshals. Austerlitz had been fought and won. Napoleon's predominant ideas at that crisis were first to perpetuate the remembrance of his victory, and, secondly, to convince the world that the china manufactory of Sevres could produce finer works than any other in the world. He sent for Isabey, the great miniature painter, father of the present artist, and commissioned him to paint a table, which would measure nine feet in circumference, and on which he himself would be pourtrayed, surrounded by Bernadotte, Murat, Berthier, Lannes, Ney, Bessi^res, Duroc, Caulaincourt, LOW DRESSES 267 Marmont, Davout, Mortier, Soult, and Angereau. Isabey was not in the habit of painting on china, and declined the offer. The Emperor uttered but two words, but they were very significant, "/^ veux'.' Isabey set to work in 1805, but, unaccustomed to work on china and to calculate the change effected by exposing his painting to the heat of a furnace, which alters the tone of many colours, especially affecting blue tints, he felt hopeless of success. In despair one day as he paced his atelier, a pot of a rich blue substance caught his eye. " What is that ? " he inquired of an apprentice. The lad tremblingly replied that it was a compound he was trying. He had used some of his master's colours to produce it, and fearing discovery, had hidden the result. In a few hours Isabey's marshals were done in the blue he had so long sought in vain. The apprentice boy, Riancreu, is now con- servator of the Sevres manufactory. The table was completed in 18 10. During the period of its execution Napoleon paid Isabey an annual sum of 6,000 f It was placed in the Salle des Marechaux, and subsequently in the Louvre. During the occupation of Paris by the allied armies Isabey saw a rope placed round the Vendome Column, and heard it doomed to destruction. He naturally trembled for his table. M. de Serres, to rescue it from destruction, purchased it from the directors of the Louvre, then glad to get rid of a Napoleonic souvenir. He gave 60,000 f for it. During Louis Philippe's reign he wished to sell it to the Government, but was only offered 50,000 f. for it. M. de Serres died lately. His widow has sent the table to the Malmaison Exhibition, and it is said the Emperor intends purchasing it. November ^th. A good story is related of the Emperor Francis Joseph, who is well known at Vienna to dislike the present exagger- ated d^colleti style so fashionable among young ladies belonging to the great world. A certain Princess X was the star of Vienna during two successive seasons. Her features were not in strict accordance with the classic line of 268 L'ABBE MORIN beauty, but en revanche, her neck and shoulders were faultless — only one saw somewhat too much of them. One evening at a Court ball the Princess was all but innocent of any cor- sage, and the little that her dressmaker had added to her skirts was not particularly useful. The lady complained of cold and shivered, and as she passed the Emperor shrugged her lovely shoulders completely out of the lilliputian corsage, saying, " I am so cold — b-r-r-r ! " The Emperor beckoned to one of the equerries-in-waiting, and gave him an order. In a few seconds he reappeared with the Princess's opera cloak, which the Emperor took from him and quietly placed on the shoulders of the fair frileuse. November nth. The Moniteur de la Flotte gives intelligence which will be received with sorrow by many a broken-hearted convict and many a repentant criminal, whose very existence is well-nigh forgotten, even in their own families. Abb6 Morin, the almoner of the convict hulks at Toulon, has died. Neither politician nor soldier, his mission was nobler than either, namely, to bring consolation to the afflicted and hope to the despairing. Admirably he fulfilled it. When first appointed chaplain to the Bagne his task appeared hopeless. His predecessor — a Spaniard — had brought scorn and insult on his holy office. It occurred to the Abb6 that if he could amuse his wild and infidel audience instead of lecturing them he might catch their attention. M. d'Exauvilliers had just published a series of little books, in which grave questions on morality and religion were treated in the form of dialogues. The Abbd got as many copies of these as he had members in his congregation. He entered the salle and read aloud the introduction, which explained that in a certain village the Mayor, M. Dupont, was a sceptic, MaJtre Thomas an infidel, Gros Pierre a blasphemer, etc. The Abb6 asked for the best readers amongst his audience. Much amazed, a dozen stepped to the front as quickly as their heavy chains and THE ABBE'S METHODS 269 manacles permitted. To each he handed a pamphlet. The Abb6 reserved to himself the rdle of the village curate. He begged the first nearest to him to begin. The convict at once tried to give the right emphasis to the part allotted to him. The Abb6 read his reply. The second culprit read the next remark, and so on. The men got into the spirit of the book, and the spectators seated round listened with profound interest to this novel scene. The subject was grave, but admirably treated. Naturally the curate had the best of the day, and when, in his closing address, he victoriously refuted the arguments of the infidel, the blasphemer, the atheist, etc., a burst of applause resounded from every side of the salle. On the following Sunday the only difficulty he had to combat was the anxiety of each convict to secure a part. The Abb6 varied his repertoire, and from that hour he conquered, not the respect only, but the affection of his congregation, composed, be it remembered, of the vilest criminals on the face of the earth. But his work ended not within the prison walls. He rested not till he had built and endowed the Convent du Bon Pasteur, wherein are sheltered two hundred reclaimed women. During the last years of his life Abbe Morin was Chaplain-General to the Fleet, and devoted a portion of each Sunday to reading and explaining to the men on board the vessels stationed at Toulon a portion of God's Word, with what success officers and men testified by their numerous attendance at the good Abba's funeral. November i^th. It is almost inconceivable, and scarcely to be credited, how difficult it has become for a family to find a respectable apartment in a tolerably good situation in this metropolis, the difficulty arising from the exactions of the landlords. Many among the prosperous class refuse to let their apart- ments to doctors, pasteurs, curates, or notaries, alleging as a reason that professional men receive visitors of all classes —^perchance even poor, shabbily dressed persons, who do 270 PARISIAN LANDLORDS not look well on the staircase. Indeed, pasteurs are par- ticularly objected to, as many in Paris have the vulgar habit of inviting the poorest among their congregation to come to them on all occasions, and at all sorts of strange hours. For instance, I dined lately with Pasteur G . While at dessert he was summoned by a mere mechanic to baptise his dying infant. Au premier, in the same house lives a banker of great repute. That very day he gave a dinner to one of the ministers. " Was it suitable," inquired the landlord next morning, "that his Excellency's wife, Madame la Marquise, should meet on the stairs an unwashed ouvrier, leading by the hand a ragged little urchin ? " The pasteur must receive his poor at more suitable times — early in the morning before the great world was up. I had a laugh at my excellent friend when he related the story to me, as I remembered he had only secured the apartment by the ruse of not mentioning his profession. But landlords object even more to persons who have children. A few months since a gentleman and his wife took an apartment near the Champs Elysdes for the usual period of three years, the lease to be renewed for six or nine years at the expiration of the term. The landlord was charmed to receive them as tenants, seeing that after strict inquiries he had ascertained their fortune to be ample, and that they had been married ten years unblessed with children. These were the tenants he liked. Ten years married by the registry at the Mairie, and never had a child, and the lady by no means young. A few months scarcely elapsed before a horrible rumour, communicated by the concierge to his cook, and by that personage to his valet, who took an opportunity while laying out his master's clothes to insinuate the chance of a new tenant being added to those already in possession of the premier. The result was instantaneous. Hastily com- pleting his toilette, the infuriated landlord rushed down- stairs, rang violently at the door of Monsieur F , and demanded an immediate interview, which, being granted, Monsieur F. was assailed by the most violent invectives, LOUIS BLANC 271 accused of treacherously breaking the express terms of the lease, and finally threatened with a lawsuit. There are landlords who furthermore stipulate that their tenants are neither to keep dogs, cats, or even canaries. December nth. A touching anecdote was related to me of Blanc the other day, which proves him not only to be endowed with genius, but with a good heart. One day — this was a few days after the Revolution of 1848 — he met the celebrated Chaudesaigues staring vacantly at some caricature in a shop window. " What are you about ? " inquired of him the author of the Historic de dix ans, striking him familiarly on the shoulder. Chaudesaigues turned round and looked at him. His features were emaciated, his eyes sunk with suffering and sickness. " I am learning how to die of hunger," replied Chaudesaigues. Louis Blanc, deeply moved, took him home, opened his secretary, which contained a sum of 300 f , and putting 200 f into the hands of the unfortunate man, said, " It is only an advance on the money I shall owe you for work I am anxious you should undertake for me." Another anecdote worth relating : Having heard that the son of General was ill and unable to leave his bed, and with- out anyone to take care of him, M. Louis Blanc instantly set out to his lodgings and acted as his nurse. He spent the night with his young friend. Day had scarcely dawned when the ringing of the bell was heard. Louis Blanc went to open the door. A man rushed in frantically with a bill, demanding in the most violent language instant payment. Louis Blanc returned to his friend's bedside, told him that he (Louis Blanc) was obliged to quit him for a few hours, as he had been sent for. He then left the house with the creditor, took him home, and paid the bill, which amounted to 400 f. The young invalid only knew two years later that Louis Blanc had saved him from being arrested for debt. 272 GUSTAVE DORE December I'itk. Gustave Dord has just sold the immense picture which occupied so large a space in the central salon of the Annual Exhibition this year to an American amateur for ;^2,200. The subject, it will be remembered, is a gambling table at Baden. Several of the celebrated anonymas of the day sat for the portraits of this picture, which is a lifelike photo- graph of the scene daily enacted at the German kursaal. An Englishman in the foreground, attired in a knickerbocker suit of tweed, seated across a chair, evidently more absorbed by the slight figure of one of the queens of the demimonde than by the Rouge et Noir going on at the table, is one of the best-drawn figures in the picture. Its merit was incontest- able, but there was a universal expression of regret that an artist who has soared so high for the choice of his subjects should have stooped so low as to attract the attention of the petit crevh of the Jockey Club, or the applause of the Quartier Breda. The Marquis of Hertford writes a letter in the Moniteur des Arts of this morning, in which he requests a story may be contradicted of his having given 80,000 f. for a Titian originally sold to a huckster for thirty shillings, and subsequently to a picture dealer for as many pounds — the said dealer having, as the story goes, discovered its merit, and sold it to the Marquis for the sum stated. Lord Hert- ford begs to state that he has purchased no such picture, and wishes the fact to be known, inasmuch as since the publica- tion of the legend he has been assailed by offers from all parts of Europe of hitherto undiscovered Titians, the price of which gems, the Marquis writes, vary, odd to say, from 80,000 f to 100,000 f., but 80,000 f. is the usual tariff. MESSIEURS LES GAMINS 273 December igih. The star of the hour at the Italiens is the American canta- trice. Miss Harris, whose graceful manners and expressive countenance, combined with a voice of marvellous flexibility and sweetness, attracts immense popularity. One of her last performances was in Crispino e la Comare, where, especially in her upper notes, she accomplishes perfect tours de force. In the duo of the second tableau of the first act Miss Harris sang with M. Ciampi, and was encored at each verse, re- called, and rapturously applauded. The same evening the baritone, Steller, made his dibut in Lucrezia Borgia. No doubt he will be in London next season, as he has proved a success over here. His voice is one of the finest we have heard for a very long time, and created a sensation. He has, moreover, the rare merit of pronouncing the words with distinctness, and acts remarkably well. The gamins de Paris, who are accustomed to receive bows from crowned heads, cannot understand why the Sultan only touches his fez in return for their shouts of "Vive le Sultan!" Messieurs les gamins do not consider themselves treated with sufficient respect and courtesy, and this explains why, when he visited the exhibition this year, they vocifer- ated in his ears, "Otez done votre calotte!" Abdul Aziz Khan might certainly have done so without running the chance of catching cold, but as Commander of the Faithful, his Ottoman Majesty could not do so without compromising his dignity. Someone remarked to me that as sultans are forbidden to walk on any ground but Mussulman territory, he had avoided the difficulty by stuffing his boots with Turkish earth. 274 MESDAMES LES BLANCHISSEUSES January \A,th, 1868. One of the specialties of this capital is the fite of the blanchisseuses, annually celebrated at Mi-car6me, and in- tended, I conclude, to give us a tantalising idea of the attractions of the washing population of Meudon, Sevres, Suresnes, Asni^res, Viroflay, the one and all of these localities being tenanted by washermen and washerwomen. For this show they are transformed into mythological personages, some representing Hercules, Jupiter, or Bacchus ; their fair companions, Venus, or Hebe, or Pomona. The greater number, however, are in carnival attire, and some of the costumes admirable in effect, though perhaps wanting in accuracy of detail. The lower classes of Paris society, in fact, are metamorphosed — women wear men's clothes, and walk about stick in hand ; whilst men are disguised as women, some wearing widespread crinolines, others not even a single petticoat. A curious sight it is, and not one calcu- lated to impress a stranger with an exalted idea of French morality. One of the shows of the last Mi-car^me was that of two little carriages, drawn by twelve lilliputian horses, and bearing along twelve tiny boys, varying in age from five to six years, in the costumes of athletes. The cars were inscribed with the high-sounding words, "Les terribles Lutteurs du Grand Gymnase," this naturally being an ambulatory advertisement to attract the Paris badaud to the boxing matches at the Grand Gymnase. La boxe, by-the-by, as the French designate our national sport, is becoming an institution in this capital, A friend of mine took an apart- ment some time ago in the Rue des Ecurier d'Artois, solely on account of the retired and quiet character of that quartier. " 'Tis true," he repeated to his acquaintances, " I pay a high price for my apartment, but my wife is nervous and requires a quiet situation, and our street is so quiet." Lo ! a fortnight ago a club pour la boxe was established under his very windows, and its members box away till the small hours of the morning to the unmitigated disgust of the inhabitants of La Rue des Ecurier d'Artois. MORAL POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS 275 January i^^th. The recent death of the Due de Luynes, distinguished alike for his scientific attainments and unbounded munificence, will be fresh in your memory. His son, a volunteer in the Ponti- fical Zouaves, being prevented from resuming his regimental rank by the duties inseparable from the possession of the vast estates to which he succeeded on the death of his father, has presented His Holiness with twelve rifled guns, wishing, as he himself remarked, to be represented in the regiment. The Pope, when expressing his gratitude for this noble gift to M. de Luynes, inquired how he could acknowledge this act of princely generosity. " By allowing me to give twelve more guns in case these should not prove sufficient " — a reply eminently characteristic of this Ultramontane yet chivalrous race. January igth. I think it right to inform you that a sort of surveillance is now exercised over our pocket-handkerchiefs. It is considered as highly objectionable to use one of those handkerchiefs adorned with the portrait of the first Emperor. At the representation of " Malbrouck s'en va-t-en guerre " one of the actors, L^onie, thought he would produce a comic effect by sneezing in a pocket-handkerchief bearing the equestrian figure of Napoleon I. No one dreamt of sedition, and the present Empire did not appear the worse for the joke, when one evening a country sous-pr^fet, happening to see the piece, was struck with horror at recognising the well-known features on the square of cambric applied to the nostrils of L^onie. Fired by patriotic zeal, he returns to his prefecture, and in- stantly communicates to his chief, the prefect, the horrible cir- cumstance he himself has witnessed. The prefect, on hearing the awful communication, believes it to be his duty to address a confidential report on the subject to the Minister, to whom 276 CHEMICAL HUSBAND WANTED he reveals the dangers which the State incurs by permitting such treasonable acts in the Theatre de I'Ath^n^e, Rue Scribe. The Minister writes to his colleague, another excellency ; that excellency summons M. Camille Doucet ; notes, prods verbaux, etc., etc., are exchanged ; Ldonie, utterly unconscious that his handkerchief had become an affair of State, is in- formed that if he does not get another of less seditious import he will probably be arrested on the stage by a company of gendarmes. You will be glad to hear that the outraged feel- ings of prefectorial and ministerial loyalty are appeased, as L^onie has bought another handkerchief, and, having myself been present at a recent representation of " Malbrouck s'en va-t-en guerre," I can assert that he now uses a hand- kerchief on which Croquet taming his lions is splendidly printed. Who knows if this may not be symbolical of no end of treachery and sedition. January 20th. Although it is not my habit to send you advertisements, still I think the following one important, inasmuch as it may prove useful to a great many people who are doubtless anxious to provide themselves with wives. I translate liter- ally, as I find it in a morning paper : " A young lady of forty-eight, having a moderate income, but possessing a patent for a new invention, wishes to marry a gentleman of sixty-five well versed in chemistry." This last appears to me a new requisite in the matrimonial market. February %th. The last fashion in the robbery line may be as interesting as the " newest style " in dress, and the following episodes strike me as worthy of record on account of their novelty : At the last Bal de I'Op^ra a commercial agent met a masked lady, as he imagined of the great world. A carriage and livery servants awaited her exit. She graciously permitted the admirer to accompany her to her house, but on condition THE LATEST FASHION IN ROBBERY 277 of his allowing her to blindfold him. The drive lasted about an hour, at the expiration of which time the carriage stopped at a house. They entered, and, ascending a staircase of thirty steps, M. B heard a door open. On the lady taking off the bandage from his eyes, he found himself in a brilliantly lighted apartment, and in the presence of three men armed with poniards and revolvers. " If you stir, you are a dead man ; give us your money, and you shall be left at the Pantheon." There was, of course, no alternative ; the victim laid his purse on a table, and at five o'clock in the morning was deposited at the Pantheon, the carriage im- mediately starting off at full speed. The police vainly endeavoured to trace out the affair, but no light was thrown on the mystery till a few evenings since. M. Paul B , a grocer, was walking home by the Rue Soufflot, when a young woman suddenly fell almost at his feet, and in such a manner that M. Paul B was obliged to support her. She appeared to have sprained her ankle, and therefore to be unable to walk. The grocer had nothing for it but to offer her his arm, and assist her to her lodging. Rue Mouffetard. Arrived at the parte cochere, her sufferings prevented her ascending the stairs without his aid. She lived au sixikme, and on reaching that storey she knocked at a door, which at once opened, and M. Paul B was instantly seized by three men, who enacted precisely the scene of the Bal de I'Opdra robbery, with the slight difference that they obligingly in- formed their victim they belonged to a society scattered over Paris ; therefore, if he betrayed them to the police, his life would not be safe in any quarter. This has proved perfectly correct, the police having already twelve of their gang in safe keeping. February \2th. The Duchess of Hamilton (Princess Mary of Baden) gives soirees dansanies every week. At the last the absence of Madame de was much regretted, more especially when it became known that she was seriously ill. It appeared, 278 ECCENTRIC PETITIONS however, that the lady in question constantly believes herself to be dying. Her husband is absent on a political mission, and she accordingly sent him the following telegram : "Return instantly. I am very ill — dying." To which M. de replied : " Pressing business. Wait a fortnight." Madame de has waited. March wth. The Senate has decidedly the monopoly of eccentric peti- tions. Amongst the humorous string of those yesterday laid before that austere assembly notice the following. It is worthy of record, inasmuch as it is in utter contradiction to that of the worthy Sieur Boutron, of Loiret. That patriot expressed a wish that the Colonne Venddme should be de- molished and the bronze thereof melted down into work- men's tools or saucepans — I forget which ; also, that the flags and trophies which adorn the Chapel of the Invalides should be restored by France to their original owners — that is, the nations they were respectively taken from. Now M. Quicherat, a worthy " propridtaire a Paris," for so he describes himself, does not share the ideas emitted by the Sieur Bou- tron. In the petition he laid before the Senate yesterday he on the contrary urges the necessity of erecting a monument in commemoration of all the great achievements accom- plished by the French army under the present reign. The petitioner humbly submits to the consideration of the senators his conviction that too long a period has already elapsed, and that the country ought speedily to bestow on "our recent victories tjie traditional consecration which triumphs on the field of battle suggest to nations imbued with a proper spirit of jealousy as to their national honour." The place whereon to erect this monument, remarks the petitioner, is already prepared. Where else should it be elevated but on the very spot where the Emperor drew rein on first entering Paris, when surrounded by an enthusi- astic crowd, who so vociferously cheered their Sovereign? — that spot is the Place d'ltalie, 13th Arrondissement. A TO THE SENATE 279 few more of the petitions which engrossed the attention of that sapient assembly appear to me worth noticing. Nos. 127 and 258 bear the signatures of M. Cazkes, of Pouyastruc (Hautes Pyrenees), and of the Sieur Cra- mohzeaux, barrister, of the Haute Vienne. These gentle- men solicit the intervention of the Senate to obtain that the Prince Imperial (aged twelve) be, without further delay, associated with the Imperial Government under the name of Napoleon IV. The petitioners remark that by the inex- orable law of nature which compels sovereigns to have successors, peoples and dynasties are often exposed to perils and dangers ; therefore it would be a measure of the highest prudence to forestall these disagreeable accidents by operat- ing an association, or, as it were, establishing a continuous stream of sovereign power, without awaiting moments of crisis. Petition 181 is, indeed, a strange one, judging by the following paragraph, which appears in the official report of yesterday's debate : Le Sieur Manvergnier, of Limoges, begs to call the attention of the Minister of the Interior to certain observations he has made, the result of which is that he has discovered the means by which every torrent of rain can be turned off land bearing crops of pasture. Premising that clouds are merely sea-water converted into vapour by the heat of the sun, the petitioner suggests that they should be condensed by means of huge fire-engines, and the water thus formed turned off on the sea-coast, which, this scientific luminary remarks, is usually uncultivated. Petition 191 will, at all events, have the result of proving that its author, M. Deiss, of Paris, is anxious to proclaim to the world at large that he is a staunch Bonapartist (probably he purports standing at the next elections for one of the Paris cir- conscriptions). However, M. Deiss de Paris, as he styles himself, humbly craves from Government that henceforth in all cafis, reading-rooms, libraries, etc., where the Opposition papers are taken in, the managers of the above-named establishments may be compelled to take in a like number of Ministerial and official journals, as in this way, sapiently 28o KINGLY RELICS remarks the petitioner, persons frequenting such establish- ments will have the antidote next to the poison — le contre- poison d. c6ti du poison. March I2th. The Secolo of Milan announces that a tailor of Milan possesses the identical pair of breeches in which the first Emperor fought the battle of Marengo. These necessary articles of dress, being somewhat the worse for that great victory, were sent to the said tailor to be patched, and further- more as a pattern for a new pair. The man of shears appears to have considered the inexpressibles in question as " past mending," and kept them altogether. It appears that he bethought himself that some hundred years hence they would be considered as a relic of the young conqueror who was sweeping Austrian armies before him as though they were so much dust, and would be worth money, so he had their identity proved and registered by a notary. Relic collectors have another opportunity of buying up the old clothes of defunct royalty. The old King of Bavaria preserved every article he ever put on — from his boots to his hats, from his shirts to his overcoats^ — from the year 1823 to the date of his death ; and, moreover, with an eye to the instruction of the future historian of dress, had each garment entered in a register according to chronological order. He did something more to the purpose, however, for his heirs, as he left 250 millions of money. March loth. The best balls of this season — naturally I do not allude to official entertainments — have been given by the American colony in Paris. Mrs. Gowan's receptions, Mrs. Downing's and Mrs. Norton's bals-costumh have been the events of the gay world. The last-named lady and Colonel Norton gave a masked ball last Friday, which was unusually brilliant and piquant from the fact of everyone present, including the master of the revels, being masked ; and the most amusing A MASKED BALL 281 incidents were the result. The Press was represented by Madame Schlieker, whose costume of black and gold was illuminated by the designs of printing machines, the names of various newspapers, and other symbols of the profession. Mrs. Pratt, daughter of the well-known American Dr. Sims, was admirably costumed as a red Indian, her skin being dyed, and her magnificent black chevelure, which hung far below her waist, confined by a feather coronal, and her many- coloured petticoat also embroidered with feathers, the dress having the merit of being authentic. The Javanaise, Mdlle. Duhamel, in powder and hoop. Miss Harris, ringing the silver bells of Folly, and Miss Kate Harris, in the crimson, white, and gold costume of the wife of a Hungarian magyar, were the fairest amongst the belles. Why Le Petit Crev6 Anglais should have been represented by M. de Morlot in a dress of cloth of gold, fitting perfectly tight, a melon of gold in guise of headgear, and immense standing-up collar, I know not. The inevitable umbrella, the Briton's faithful com- panion, carefully encased in shining oilsilk, hanging at his side, one understood, for an Englishman and his umbrella are inseparable ; but I am not aware of having exhibited myself to the public, or observed my countrymen doing so, in golden apparel; and since the days of railway travelling the milord whose portmanteau is stuffed with banknotes has become a rara avis in Paris — he is to be found doing the Nile in his yacht, or fly-fishing by the banks of the Nor- wegian fiord ; but nowadays the great mass of the English who convert the Rue de Rivoli into a succursale of Oxford Street is not encumbered by the gold that glittered on the Petit Crev6's person. Oiseau Bleu was a success amongst the ladies, who pronounced him, for I am oblivious of his name, " charmant " ; such lovely blue wings ; and then the cap of blue feathers and the birds' heads on his shoulders, and his winged boots — ravissant, as a young lady confided to me. The host, all but invisible beneath a huge wig, specta- cled moreover, and disguised as a Breton notary, was only unmasked at an early hour on Saturday morning. The 282 LEMERCIER DE NEUVILLE'S floral decorations, as usual in Paris, were most artistic — twining ivy, pyramids of white camellias and violets, adorned the supper-table, which did credit to the hospitality of the land of the Stars and Stripes. March 2,1st. The Cercle des Beaux Arts, a club much resorted to by some of the most talented of the literary and artistic world of P^ris, is situated in the Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin. To be admitted one must, as in English clubs, be presented by two members, and go through the ordeal of a ballot. If I mention this club, it is because I was last night at a soiree given by its members, which was interesting in every detail. We had not only good singing and good music, but we were entertained by some of Lemercier de Neuville's humorous marionettes, masks and grimaces of the most celebrated personages of the day. The acting, though performed after the fashion of Punch and Judy, is most witty and eminently satirical. The political characters are lifelike, and unmis- takable from their resemblance — the tone of voice and gestures of each personage are imitated to perfection. Lemercier de Neuville is not only a capital actor, but a first- rate writer. Why he has turned into a montreur de marion- ettes he himself has most touchingly explained in his amusing work, I pupazzi. In 1863 poor, and burdened with a family, he was endeavouring to gain his livelihood by his pen. We all know the struggles of a young unknown writer, the hopeless effort to induce editors to accept a work signed by an untried name, the polite excuses and the insolent rebuffs by which one is, as the French expressively designate this sort of thing, ^conduit. Lemercier got a few articles placed, but the " black dog " was at his door. His little child was sick — dying, in fact. On his cradle lay broken toys. He would awake and ask for fresh amuse- ment ; some numbers of Le Boulevart, on the first pages of which were Cargot's inimitable " charges," lay scattered on the floor. An idea struck the father : he cut out the carica- MARIONETTES 283 tures, pasted them on some cardboard, on which he had been sketching, and with some broken wire from the toys con- structed a series of marionettes. The child awoke and screamed with delight. De Villemessant brandished his razor, Nadar sent up his balloon, Rossini tossed maccaroni in his saucepan. " But why," asked the boy, " has that gentleman a razor ? " " Oh, because he writes the Figaro, and Figaro was a barber." The child's question suggested to him that for the great majority to whom the idiosyncrasies of great men are unknown " charges " ought to be accom- panied by an explanation. He wrote a few verses, imitating the style of each writer — satirical, of course, but easily re- cognisable. Some of his artist friends, surprised by the novelty and the humour of the child's show, insisted on his giving a soiree. It was a success, although the audience, consisting of the young litterateurs of the day, was perhaps the most fastidious and the least easy to please of any in Europe. Five years have elapsed, and Lemercier de Neu- ville and his " pupazzi " are now as well known as any of the characters he satirises. Musical soirees and Lent are synonymous terms in Paris. The Parisian woman of fashion will dance at balls given by heretics, but at her own house she will entertain you with music only, which is rather an expensive enjoyment just now. Madame A gave a concert lately at her house in the Avenue Gabriel, at which a scene from a popular partition was performed. Altesse, first flutist of the Opera orchestra, executed a few bars of one of the airs. When Madame A next day asked him what she was in his debt, he replied, " A hundred francs, madame." " What ! for eighty notes ? " " Oui, madame." To help us to endure the period of fasting mackerel have benevolently allowed themselves to be caught in numbers hitherto unknown in the annals of fisheries ; 9,800 baskets of them arrived at the Paris market yesterday morning, and remarkably fine of their kind they were. 284 NILSSON April 2(jth. Last night — or to be more technically correct, this morning — our Swedish nightingale sang for the last time, and ere this reaches you she will be in London. The great world, the artistic world, the musical world, proved their appreciation of her genius, and their sincere regret at parting with her, by crowding the vast enceinte of the Grand Opera in such numbers that there was not an available spot within the salle which was not occupied by some representative of the highest ranks of Paris society. As early as three o'clock in the day there was no possibility to obtain a ticket, whatever sum you might offer for it. I shall not give an account of the libretto, which is a mere musical adaptation of Shakespeare's Hamlet. Neither shall I attempt to convey an idea of the magnificent mise-en- scene of this opera, which for the last month has attracted the whole of Paris ; my sole object is to record the tremendous success achieved last night by Mdlle. Christina Nilsson. In the first three acts, although her part does not call forth her powers either of singing or acting, she nevertheless steals upon us siren-like, magnetising her audience by the charm of her voice, as well as by her own exceeding loveliness. Yet, apparently, evidently unaware of those gifts, perfectly childlike, and even unconscious of the effect she produces on the spectators. Few artists, let it be said, would be able to personify Ophelia as truly as she does. That is, suffering love's pangs without once confessing them ; making a secret of this love and never divulging it ; and even when in a hope- less state of madness, only manifesting her devotion to Hamlet by tears and sighs. When she sang an exquisite air — borrowed, as I am told, from her own country — we listened as though we were in the presence of real insanity, so eloquently and truly did she act this difficult part. So natural and unsophisticated, so full of pathos was she in this admirable and touching scene, that I detected many a tear in those who most frantically applauded her. In all truth it AS OPHELIA 28s may be said that the whole of that excited audience gazed upon Ophelia with all the tenderness, with all the intensity of love of Hamlet himself; and had Shakespeare himself been present, he too, poor fellow, would have lost his heart to Ophelia-Nilsson, so exquisite was her rendering of the sim- plicity, the childish delicacy, the virgin innocence, as well as the sorrow and despair of his heroine, all of which were expressed in notes sweet and melodious, such as belong not to earth, and lead the imagination to soar to higher spheres. In the song in which are depicted the wild, rambling fancies of her mind, the sudden transition from gaiety to sadness is so dramatically performed by the Swedish nightingale that she here reveals herself as great an actress as she is an unrivalled cantatrice. It was at this moment that burst forth from every part of the house the most frantic applause, such as in a long experience of Paris audiences I have never wit- nessed, and such, indeed, as led me to believe that the madness of Ophelia had proved contagious and seized upon the audience. In the annals of musical history never was such an ovation made to an artist. It was a scene never to be for- gotten, and not easy to be described, when the crowded and brilliant audience, rising simultaneously and giving vent to its excitement, took leave of one endeared to them, not only by her enchanting voice, but by her personal qualities and youth- ful charms. To write that bouquets were flung from every part of the house and literally covered the stage is sober fact. Hundreds fell from the boxes, and of a size and beauty that must have cost fabulous sums ; and not only was this extraordinary demonstration made by the audience, but a gigantic floral trophy of white lilies and lilacs was offered to her by the manager, and each of the actors, actresses, dan- seuses, and choristes presented her with wreaths, crowns, and floral devices of every imaginable form — some in leaves of gold and silver ; one garland which Ophelia held in her hand for a few moments was formed of the wax blossoms of the Stephanotis and the white flowers of the Gardenia, interwoven with long streamers of silver ribbon. This representation 286 THE "FIGARO" ON ESQUIRES produced the unprecedented sum of 14,147 f., an amount unheard of in the annals of the Grand Opera. Hamlet in twenty-two nights has brought in above £^10,200 sterling. May \2th. There is a time-honoured saying, '"Tis never too late to learn." I therefore am glad of an opportunity of conveying instruction which I myself received with due deference from the Figaro. It would appear that the question has been put to that popular journal as to what the origin and mean- ing of " esquire " added to our patronymics may be ; in fact, why John Brown is addressed " John Brown, Esq." " The word ' esquire,' " replies the Figaro, " in its popular accepta- tion, is a title of courtesy granted to persons who conceive it to be derogatory to their dignity to be addressed as ' Sir John So-and-So' or 'Sir Thomas So-and-so.' However," continues this erudite journal, " this distinction is going out of fashion, and persons belonging to the upper classes no longer indulge in the puerile vanity of adding this title to their surname." I translate literally. May \()th. You will remember the adventure of the Prussian engineer ofiScers whose good pleasure it was to spend some days in the vicinity of Meudon, and in the garb of workmen to drink at a cabaret by an unaccounted-for accident frequented by the men employed in the manufacture of the portable cannon invented by the Emperor. The story goes that Marshal Niel is particularly curious as to the manufacture of German beer, and, wishing to ascertain precisely the amount of hops used in the breweries along the Rhine, sent a party of French engineer officers to make inquiries on this interesting subject. By another unaccounted-for accident these officers were only interested in the manner in which beer was made in fortress towns. This peculiarity struck M. de Bismarck, who, to save further trouble and expense, M. DE BISMARCK'S GENEROSITY 287 has obligingly forwarded Marshal Niel plans of all the Prussian-Rhenane fortresses, together with a design of the best breweries in each of the Rhenane frontier cities. The story strikes me as too good to be true. June ^th. The law which in France compels property to be equally divided amongst the children at the death of the head of a family constantly brings treasures of art into the public sale- rooms, and long-forgotten works are thus brought to light, executed by our best masters for personages of importance, whose possessions, utterly swept away by successive revolu- tions, are now represented by poor and unknown descendants, in many cases utterly unconscious of the value of the few relics of the past glories of their house they may yet have preserved. Two instances have lately proved an agreeable surprise to the world of art A panel was sold the other day on which was painted a child of two or three years lying on a mattress of white satin. From one hand gold pieces are falling, whilst with the other he presses a dove to his heart. Above are zephyrs and other mythological personages. On close investigation it has been proved that the painting is from the brush of no less a master than Boucher, the panel being executed by order of Louis XV. to decorate one of the apartments of the Grand Trianon, the subject having been his grandson, Louis XVI., when a child. The panel was subsequently presented by Queen Marie Antoinette to one of her ladies. A still more curious incident occurred last week at Versailles. One of the brightest ornaments of the Court of Louis XVI., the Countess Ghika, died, aged ninety-three, at the beginning of this year. The Countess, having lost her husband as well as his property by the first revolution, was granted a small pension by the Bourbons on their return to power, which pension was continued by successive Governments to the hour of her death. Charitable persons added to this pension, and one amongst them, visiting her at Versailles on one 288 A STORY OF SAINTE-BEUVE occasion, noticed a portrait of a beautiful woman in Court dress, and inquired who it represented. " Me," replied the ancient lady, " and the painting is by Prudhon." The lady died, the few possessions were sold, and with them the picture. My friend, absent at the time of the auction, re- turned, to be informed that the Prudhon had been sold for 2 f. to a brocanteur, and, truly, at his shop -door, he dis- covered the treasure, which he repurchased for lo f. : he is now in possession of a picture valued at 12,000 f, it having all the merit of never having passed into the hands of a cleaner. Du reste, a mere sketch by Prudhon sold last week at the Hdtel Drouot for 600 f. {£24). The Countess is in the Court dress of the period, adorned with jewels and rich lace. June ^th. A rather amusing incident is related to have occurred during the visit Prince Napoleon paid M. de Sainte-Beuve to congratulate the latter on the speech delivered by him at the Senate. When the Prince called upon the senator, he was received by Sophie, his well-known servant, and as M. de Sainte-Beuve was dressing. His Highness entered into a con- versation with the ancient dame. " M. de Sainte-Beuve," observed the Prince, " must have been highly satisfied with the ovation made to him by the students." " Oh yes, sir," replied Sophie, who thought she was paying a compliment to the Prince, " they all shouted, ' Vivent les Impdrialistes ! ' " "You are mistaken," interrupted the Prince, "you did not hear well ; they cried ' Vivent les materialistes ! ' not ' Vivent les Imp^rialistes!'" Sophie was puzzled, and asks for explanations. June yth. Paris is at this moment in a state of wild excitement. Cabmen coolly ask 50 f. to take you to Longchamps and back, a distance which on an ordinary day you certainly would accomplish for 5 f. At the hour at which I write not a ON THE RACECOURSE 289 vehicle of any kind, not even a milkman's cart, is to be had for any amount of love or money. I chanced to dine in an aristocratic quarter of this city last night, and I undertake to assert that during five hours I heard no subject alluded to but the probable events of this day on the racecourse, varied occasionally by feminine voices engaged in exciting each other's jealousy by descriptions of the chefs d'ceuvre of millinery in which the fair ones are at this moment equip- ping themselves for conquest ; but, alas ! the clouds as I write are lowering, and a shadow of darkness ominous to muslins and laces is falling over the land. Alas for the doomed toil- ettes ! The general opinion, at the pigeon-shooting yesterday afternoon and at yesterday's races, amongst the French, was that the Marquis of Hastings's Earl was a better horse than Suzerain. Note, I attempt not to utter a prophecy, I merely repeat what I heard, and likewise some bitter feeling ex- pressed that the English had refused to back French horses. I give these echoes sous toutes rhervh. Paris is crowded with foreigners. Amongst the English who will be Resent are the Marquises of Lansdowne and Hastings, the Duke of Hamilton, Lord Newport, General Hastings Doyle, Lord Stamford, the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, Captain and Lady Mary Craven, Mr. S. Gladstone, and all the men of note in the sporting world. The hotels are filled to over- flowing, and the avenue of the Champs Elys6es at this hour presents the appearance of one unbroken mass of equipages. Ladies' tickets for the grand stand, even at 10 f , and gentle- men's at 20 f., were not easy to obtain yesterday afternoon, and a tremendous crowd was expected. June Zth. 1 was not mistaken in the opinion I expressed. The Earl, as I said, proved a better horse than Suzerain, and won magnificently by a length. The competitors were Suzerain, Blueskin (Mr. Savile's property), Vale Royal, and Count Lagrange's Nelusko. The French were confident of their favourite's success, and even when the two horses were u 290 AN ENGLISH VICTORY standing together before the start, sneered at the idea of the Marquis of Hastings winning the day. The result of the race was not for one minute doubtful, the Earl, after the first three-quarters of a mile, keeping well ahead, and winning easily by a length. The English cheered tremendously. Fordham was dragged off his horse, and the character so well known on every French racecourse, Joey Jones, wearing the Marquis of Hastings's colours — red and white — got into the saddle, and cheered and hurrahed as long as his voice lasted. But the victory was received by the French in dead silence ; the great majority did not attempt to conceal their annoyance. The Emperor congratulated the Marquis of Hastings, but almost immediately crossed the course, the Empress leaning on his arm, to his carriage, and at once drove back to the Tuileries. The display of jealousy on the part of the French is not commendable, inasmuch as when Gladiateur was victorious in England no such feeling was manifested. The scene on the course was brilliant and striking, although the sun did not shine, and the ladies trembled for their toilettes. The weather kept up, and the afternoon belied the threatening aspect of the morning sky. The Court arrived in three open carriages attelis d la Dau- nwnt. The Grand Duchess Marie of Russia and the Count and Countess of Flanders joined the Imperial party at the grand stand, and saw the race from the Emperor's box. The Empress was most becomingly dressed in blue silk, flounced with Brussels lace, a fichu Marie Antoinette of the same lace, and a straw bonnet wreathed with wild flowers. The beauty and distinction of the youthful Countess of Flanders struck everyone. She recalls her sister. Queen Stephanie of Portu- gal, whose early death was so much deplored ; and report says the Countess is as amiable as her sweet, intelligent countenance would lead one to expect. This is by no means the first time the French have been beaten on their own ground. In 1863 Mr. Savile's Ranger, when 20,134 spectators paid for entering within the lines, and in 1866 the Duke of Beaufort's Ceylon, when 38,012 spectators LE GRAND PRIX 291 swelled the receipts, carried off the Derby of France. The prize consists of a piece of plate presented by the Emperor and of a hundred thousand francs presented partly by the city of Paris and partly by the railway companies. For the first time the Prince Imperial made his appearance in the weighing yard. He was under the escort of his cousin, Prince Achille Murat, who appears to be spending his honeymoon anywhere but in Mongolia or St. Petersburg. The yellow clarence of the Marchioness of Hastings, picked out with pale blue, excited considerable curiosity, especially as the postillion's jacket was rose-coloured. June