CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND GIVEN IN 1891 BY HENRY WILLIAMS SAGE 3 1924 028 853 392 olin Overs Date Due PRINTED IN NO. 23233 The original of tiiis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028853392 HISTORY OF ESSEX COUNTY WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF SOME OF ITS PROMINENT MEN AND PIONEERS EDITED BY H. P. SMITH SYRACUSE, N. Y. D. MASON & CO., PUBLISHERS i88s D. MAgOJ of iron, graphite, sulphuret of iron, quartz, epidote, and pyroxene are found. Gneiss and primary limestone are found along the eastern border of the hy- persthene in Ticonderoga, and east part of Schroon, Moriah, and Westport, and west portion of the town of Essex, skirting also the west and northwest flanks of the hypersthene, and occurring largely near Newcomb lake. Porphyry is not frequent in Essex county. Cannon's Point, a mile or two below the village of Essex, furnishes the best specimen of this volcanic rock. It is found between layers of slate; and it is seen rearing its low columnated cliffs along the lake shore in the neighborhood of the village ; in the fields, in low cliffs, and in a bluff 200 feet in height, at a locality called Rattlesnake Den. Toward Split Rock the lake shore is strewed with fragments of this rock. It is spread over the surface, not like the other volcanic matter, trap, disposed in veins ; and it is sprinkled with crystals of red feldspar, of which substance it is formed. The magnetic oxide of iron is diffused throughout the county. In the town of Newcomb it occurs in a far greater degree than all the rest, particularly at and around Lakes Henderson and Sanford. The ores found here are all mag- netic in character ; are black in the mass, and are generally mixtures of the protoxide and peroxide, one atom of the former to two of the latter. They are known to some extent by the names of the localities where found. The Sanford ore is found on the west flank of a mountain of 700 feet, sloping gradually to the east border of the lake of that name, and two miles from what is known as the " Upper Works " (see history of the town of Newcomb.) The length of the Sanford vein is between two and three miles. This immediate locality is probably unsurpassed in its iron deposits, and numerous beds exist within an area of three miles. A vein of what is called the coarse-grained black ore lies near to and even beneath the old settlement of the Upper Works ; it is computed to extend more than 3,000 feet, with a width of between 700 and 800 feet. Another vein, called the fine-grained ore, lies about eighty rods east of the site of the works, on a ridge. It extends northwest more than half a mile from the works, with a breadth of over 150 feet. On the west border of Lake Henderson, nearly a mile from the village, is another vein of the fine- grained ore ; another on the west bank of Lake Sanford, and still another on the east side of Sanford Mountain. On the East river it is seen in large masses of pure ore, and on the west "side of Lake Sanford, about three miles southwest from the Upper Works, is an extensive mass known as the Cheney ore bed. The foreign minerals in the Sanford vein are labradorite, hypersthene, common feldspar and the crystalline green variety and hornblende. All of this iron de- posit described thus far is in the town of Newcomb. Natural Characteristics. 27 The town of Minerva also gives evidence of great mineral wealth, and the deposit has been worked. In the town of Schroon are the Schofield and the Skiff beds, both of which have been energetically worked. Two beds have been worked in Crown Point near the Schroon line. What is known as the Moriah iron district is scarcely second to that of the Adirondacks, and about a score of beds and mines have been opened and extensively worked. This district continues into Elizabethtown and Westport, where some fifteen beds have been opened. Most of these ores produce the best of iron and steel. ^ The unaltered sedimentary rocks of the county occupy but an extremely narrow belt along Lake Champlain. The Potsdam sandstone, the lowest of these rocks, is found principally at Keeseville, where it is cloven into the wonderful Ausable chasms. The southern limit of the rock in mass is in the town of Willsborough ; but it is seen at Ticonderoga, at the falls of the outlet to Lake George ; at Mount Defiance, and shows itself along the shore towards Crown Point ; it is seen near Bulwagga Mountain, in a belt a mile wide ; at Cedar Point, at Port Henry and at Westport. The Chazy limestope is found near the village of Westport and in the neigh- borhood of the village of Essex, here in the form of a bluff nearly 200 feet above the lake. The Trenton limestone is found at the village of Essex, filled with fossils, and also about two miles farther south. The Utica slate appears at Split Rock and also a mile along the lake shore in contact with the Chazy limestone, at which points it is traversed with trap dikes and veins of calcareous spar. It is again seen a little north of Essex, its low banks with the upper surface only exposed, traversing the shore to Peru Bay. It is confined to Essex and a few miles of the lake shore north, and in it no important minerals are found. The tertiary of Essex lines in insulated beds the shore of Lake Champlain throughout the entire length of the county. A list of the minerals found in the county embraces labradorite, magnetic oxide of iron, quartz, pyroxene, feldspar, hornblende, serpentine with carbon- ate of lime, graphite, asbestos, scapolite, mica, garnet, tabular spar, chondrodite, spinelle, tourmalin, zircon, idocrase, sphene, phosphate of lime, sulphuret of iron, copper, silver, porcelain clay and soap-stone. Those that have been profitably developed are iron, graphite (see history of Ticonderoga), feldspar to a limited extent, while the hypersthene, sandstone and limestone rocks are quarried to a considerable extent, as we shall note in the town histories. Forests. — The original forests of the county were largely constituted of pine, hemlock and spruce, which grew to an unusual size, and furnished the early settlers with a resource for profit that was of great benefit. Even at the 1 Full descriptions of the various beds and mines in the county will be found in the^subsequent town histories, to the industries of which they more properly belong. 28 History of Essex County. . I present day, as will 'hereafter appear, the lumber interest is by no means an insignificant one. Many of the streams have been cleared of obstructions, chiefly at the expense of the State, for the more advantageous transportation of logs down their currents. Among the hard woods that are natives of the county are the maple, beech, birch, elm, oak, hickory and butternut. The white oak was in early years ex- ported in large quantities to Canada, and is now shipped to some extent south- ward. Red and white cedar formerly abounded, but the former is nearly ex- terminated. Much of the woodland in the county has been cleared for lumber and man- ufacturing purposes, particularly near the iron beds. As the wood has become somewhat scarce in the later years, coal is gradually taking its place in many industries. Where pine and other soft wood forests have been felled, a second growth, almost entirely of hard woods, quickly springs up in its place and soon furnishes a growth that may be profitably cut. Flora. — The flora of the county is, perhaps, richer than that of any other State. In reference to this subject Mr. Street says in the introduction to his work on the Indian Pass: Among the most beautiful of the flowering plants may be mentioned the species of clematis, virgin bower, one of which climbing on trees and shrubs mingles its clusters of large purple flowers with the green foliage of the supporting branches. In the valleys and about the lakes and ponds, many species of the orchis family find a home. Of these curious plants some of the finest are the arethusa bulbosa (bulbous arethusa) ; the pogonia ophioglossoides ; the calapogon or grass pink, and the orchis spectabilis. Seven or eight species of viola are found, and plants and shrubs of the rose tribe abound. On the summits of the highest mountains are many rare plants, some of them found elsewhere only in extreme northern latitudes. The aren- aria greenlandica (Greenland sandroot) and potentilla tridentata (white cinque- foil) are only- found on the loftiest peaks of these mountains, or of the White mountains, while the golden- rod of Whiteface and Mount Marcy is found on no other mountains in the State. There are two beautiful specimens of kalmia, or laurel, found in the marshes ; also two exquisite species of azalea, a pink and a whi'te, seen in marshes and on shady hillsides ; and in the meadows a very beautiful species of iris ochro- leuca (yellow iris), a large splendid yellow flower growing in the town of Lewis. Animals and Fish. — The animals that have been found in the county em- brace the moose, bear, deer, fox, beaver, muskrat, mink, martin and lynx. The moose has now, doubtless, disappeared from this region ; it is a number of years since one has been killed ; but it is not very many years ago that they were numerous and hunting them formed the most exciting sport for the in- habitants. The deer is still numerous in the depths of the forests of portions of the county, and large numbers of them are slain every year. The salutary Natural Characteristics. 29 game laws are gradually becoming more and more a power for the preserva- tion of this beautiful and desirable animal. The small black bear is still met with in considerable numbers in some parts of the wilderness, and the wolf is occasionally killed. During the early settlements their depredations were a sore tax upon the limited stock pens of the pioneers. The beaver was very plentiful here in early days; but it is believed they are entirely exterminated. Numerous remains df their wonderful works exist in different parts of the county, where they erected their dams, which caused the overflow of large sections, destroying all vegetation. These flats subsequently became overgrown with natural grasses which were of great utility to early settlers. The smaller and fur-bearing animals mentioned were formerly numerous and of considerable value to the settlers ; but, while they are still found, their numbers are greatly diminished. Fish have always been abundant in the waters of the county and are so still. Lake Champlain is stocked with nearly all the common varieties that are found in fresh waters. Besides, if we may believe the account of the intrepid Cham- plain, who gave the lake its name, he found in its depths scaly monsters of hideous mien. He says: "Among the rest there is one called by the Indians, chaousarou, of divers length. The largest, I was informed by the people, are of eight and ten feet, I saw one of five feet, as thick as a thigh, with a head as big as two fists, with jaws two and a half feet long, and a double set of very long and dangerous teeth. The form of the body resembles that of the pike and is armed with scales, that the thrust of a poniard cannot pierce, and is of a silver gray color." Perhaps it is as well for our credulity that Champlain made the poor Indians responsible for the biggest of these fish. The quotation is an excellent description of the bill fish, or dog fish, which is quite numerous in Lake Ontario, and, according to Mr. Watson, still exists in Lake Champlain, but rarely taken. The muskalonge is found in the lake and attains great size. The lake shad is taken in considerable numbers in the lower portions of the lake, by the use of seines ; it rarely takes a spoon or bait. The pickerel abounds in the lake and'is taken in great numbers and in almost all ways; but its quality in these waters is not the finest. Two species of sturgeon have been occasionally taken in the lake ; but it is not a desirable food fish. The yellow perch is very abundant and is highly esteemed. The smelt is a comparatively new comer in the lake and is much prized. Bull-heads and eels abound also, and a few other unimportant varieties. In the clear streams of the interior and western part of the county and in many of the lakes the speckled trout, the king of table fish, is found in reason- able abundance, a fact that adds to what has already been said to convince the sportsman that here is a spot where he can enjoy his tastes to the utmost. What is known as the lake trout is found in many of the interior lakes and is 30 History of Essex County. second only to the speckled trout in dainty flavor. Specimens of this fish have been caught weighing fifty pounds, while those of about ten pounds are not uncommon. Few other varieties offish are found in these interior waters. Natural Ctiriosities. — This chapter may be appropriately closed with a brief reference to some of the more prominent natural curiosities for which this county is noted. Chief among these and one of the most remarkable natural wonders in the country is the Indian Pass. This great gorge, a stupendous evidence of some mighty upheaval of ages ago, was felicitously named by the Iridians, " Otneyarh," the stony giants. On one side of this wonderful pass Mount Mclntyre rises by a steep acclivity at an angle of about forty-five de- grees, while on the other the naked and almost perpendicular rocky face of Wallface, a " mighty bastion," towers to a height of from eight hundred to twelve hundred feet, and is more than a mile in length. The base of this appall- ing precipice is about two thousand feet above tide water. Mr. Street in his entertaining work on this natural phenomenon gives this vivid description : " Its 'shape is that of a half moon curving outwardly, a mighty bastion. Directly from below up sprang the gray furrowed wall, with a debris of loose rocks, looking like mere pebbles, piled five hundred feet at its base, and soar- ing upward till it seemed it might catch the very clouds floating over it. The grand sight took away the breath, like an ascent in a balloon. The eye grew dizzy in struggling up, up, to master its height. It appeared almost like sur- mounting the battlements of heaven, — as if the monster had been obliged to break an opening through the sky to rear its horrible brow to its full altitude. Let it be remembered, also, that the bottom of the gorge, the lair of the monster, was lifted more than eighteen hundred feet above the sea level, and some idea might be gained of the fearful and crushing height. Although this was the loftiest point of the pass, yet far northward, with scarce less height, on waved and surged the wall, cutting the blue with a sharp, jagged sky-line. It was a magnificent spectacle, worthy the God whose finger had plowed it." Although this is a highly figurative description and betrays the poetic side of the author's character, it is, nevertheless, not entirely an extravagant picture. The truth is, pen nor pencil can portray the sublime grandeur of this stupen- dous wall, and the human mind is overwhelmed with awe in its presence. "So exact and wonderful is the .stupendous masonry of this bulwark," says Mr. Watson, " that it seems, could human nerve allow the effort, a stone dropped from the summit might reach the base without striking an impediment." Here' nature reigns, silent, gloomy and alone, in all her wild majesty. Here starts the little rill that becomes in the course of its devious and long wander- ings, the noble Hudson. The Indian Pass is in the town of North Elba. Wilmington Notch. — This is another curiosity of a similar general charac- ter to the Indian Pass, to which it is only second in grandeur and impressive- Natural Characteristics. 31 ness. This gorge is cut through the mountains at the foot of Whiteface, which rises in an almost perpendicular ascent 2,000 feet above the bed of the Ausable, which, crowded into a narrow flume, " bursts through the mountain obstructions and thunders onward in its furious career." 1 Opposite Whiteface another precipitous acclivity towers upward with almost equal sublimity. The Ausable, having passed between the mountain precipices, tumbles headlong into an abyss more than one hundred feet in depth. This stream is one long succession of falls, rapids and cascades, through scenery of surpassing beauty, and developing water power of marvelous proportions. Ausable Chasm and the "Walled Banks." — After flowing quietly along the valley past Keeseville, the Ausable passes through a remarkable channel or chasm nearly a mile in length and varying in depth from sixty to one hun- dred feet. The walls of this channel are solid rock and mostly nearly vertical. This wonderful natural phenomenon is thus vividly pictured in Stoddard's Adirondacks Illustrated : "This freak of nature is not alone of its kind, but one of a system of rents in the earth's surface that probably extend' all over the northern portion of the State, the most noticeable of the others being at Chateaugay Falls ; on the Opalescent, and higher up on the east and west branches of the Ausable. Neither are we to say how or when they were formed ; the walls that now are from ten to fifty feet apart, were undoubtedly some time united and solid ; projections on the one hand are often faced by corresponding depressions on the other ; layers of rock on one side duplicated on the other. Prof Emmons, State geologist, found here petrified specimens of the lowest or first orders of animal life, and ripple marks made when the rock was in its plastic state ; above these, in successive layers, towers seventy feet of solid rock." Lateral fissures extend into this chasm, tjirough which stairways have been constructed for the accommodation of tourists ; the lands on either side, with improvements made, are now in the control of a corporation. Split Rock. — This natural monument is noticed by travelers passing down Lake Champlain, in the town of Essex. It rises about thirty feet from the water and is separated from the main promontory by a narrow fissure. Its surface comprises half an acre of land. It was probably separated from the promontory by the gradual action of the elements. Rainbow Falls. — A beautiful cascade in Keene, on Rainbow brook about a mile from the Ausable ponds. The fall is more than one hundred -feet clear and vertical. It is in a wild and romantic locality, amid scenery that well re- pays the visitor for his labor in reaching it. The Hunter's Pass. — Between parallel precipices on Dix's Peak and Nipple- Top, on the line between North Hudson and Keene, is a pass known by the above name, which is in many respects the equal of Indian Pass. It is in the depths of a wild and rugged region and, therefore, seldom visited. 1 Wallace's Descriptive Guide to the Adirondacks. 32 History of Essex County. Mineral Springs. — A number of mineral springs have been found in the county and a few of them have developed excellent qualities in the water. These will be definitely described in the histories of the towns where they exist. CHAPTER III. INDIAN OCCUPATION. Improbability of More than Temporary Occupation by Indians — Lake Champlain as a Highway for Indian Canoes — Origin of the Name, " Adirondaclc '' — Legendary Indian Conquest in North Elba — Traces of Occupation Anterior to the Indians — Claimants to Territory of Essex County at the Advent of the Europeans — Tradition of the Origin of the Iroquois League — Its Peculiarities — Military Statutes of the Confederacy — Personal and Social Habits and Characteristics — Missionary Labors. FEW authentic traces of permanent Indian occupation of the territory of Essex county, or, indeed, of any portion of the Great Wilderness of Northern New York, have been discovered ; but that it was traversed to a considerable extent, particularly for hunting and fishing, by the tribes of the Algonquin ^ nation who inhabited the valley of the St. Lawrence and portions of Canada, and by the eastern tribes of the Five Nations of the powerful Iroquois, a part of whose extended domain now constitutes the State of New York, is a fact conclusively established. That the more mountainous and rugged portions of the wilder- ness immediately westward from Lake Champlain and constituting a part of the present Essex county, was not made the site of Indian villages, is probably due to the forbidding natural features of the region and the fact that it was frontier territory to both the northern Indian nations and the Mohawks, the eastern most tribe of the Iroquois Confederacy. ^ But along the eastern boundary of this mountainous and almost impassable region extends a portion of the beautiful Champlain valley, which was formed by the Almighty into an unsurpassed natural highway for the canoes of the Indians through the waters of the long, narrow lake, reaching, with its smaller sister above (Lake George), from the very doors of the "Long House " of the iThename " Montagners," was applied to all the St. Lawrence Indians, and was derived from a range of mountains extending northwesterly from near Quebec. — Dr. E. B. O'Callaghan's Note on Champlain. 2 That the Adirondack (or Algonquin) nation, and after them the Iroquois, traversed if they did not inhabit the region, does not admit of a doubt. Tradition asserts that the partisan Rogers, so famous for his exploits at Lake George, destroyed in the absence of the warriors an Indian village on the '■ Plains of Abraham" in thepresent town of North Elba. He was pursued and overtaken by the warriors of the tribe at the Boquet river, just below Elizabethtown, where a battle took place.— Street's Indian Pass. Indian Occupation. 33 conquering Iroquois to the territory of their enemies, the Adirondacks,i and other tribes of the north and west. Who will doubt that this beautiful high- way was often in pre-historic times, as it was in later days, cut by the fugitive furrows that followed fleets of bark canoes, bearing victors or vanquished from bloody encounters, or parties of triumphant hunters laden with the spoils of a wonderful hunting-ground? Upon this feature of our subject Mr. Watson says in his excellent work on Essex County : " The long and narrow tract of water known to us as Lake Champlain was doubtless the war-path of the Huron and Iroquois in their mutual hostile and sanguinary incursions. The mind may readily portray fleets of the Indian war-canoes, caparisoned in the gorgeous trappings of bar- baric pomp, bounding over the dark and still 'waters of the lake, while the paddles kept tune to the cadence of their war- songs; or gliding stealthily along the silent shores, upon their mission of rapine and blood." The lake was named' by the Indians in their beautifully appropriate nomen- clature, and doubtless with reference to its location and use, " Caniadere Guarante," or, " The Lake that is the Gate of the Country. "^ In support of the tradition, which is quite obscure, of the conflict between Rogers and the Indians on the " Plains of Abraham," which has been men- tioned, is the finding of numerous relics at the scene of the traditionary battle. These relics embrace remains of war weapons of both Europeans and Indians. Other vestiges of Indian occupation exist in the town of North Elba, indicat- ing that at some former period large numbers of Indians congregated there, at least temporarily. Traces of Indian occupancy, in the form of rusty knives, hatchets, arrow-heads, pottery, etc., have been found in other localities ; but these traces are very slight, except at North Elba, as noted, and around the Saranac lakes. Although without the present boundaries of Essex county, it is proper to state that here indubitable evidences of Indian occupation, even down to a comparatively recent date, have been found. Alfred B. Street, who made considerable research in this direction, is au- thority for the statement that more than a hundred years ago a large tribe of the Saranac Indians inhabited the forests through which runs the Indian Car- rying-Place (the celebrated Indian Carry, between the foot of the Upper Sar- anac lake and Stony Creek ponds, Franklin county), an old path named by iThis Indian name is derived from the Iroquois words " Ga-ron-dah " (trees) and " Ha-des" (they eat). Hence the word " Ha-de-ron-dack" (wood or tree-eaters). It was changed by the French, who dropped the " H " and pronounced the substituted " I " like the English " E." An Indian tra- dition says that many years ago a nation attacked the Iroquois, who drove them north around Sarato- ga and Lake Champlain, where they sued for peace; this was granted by the victors, whotaunted them by saying they had become so powerless that they could no longer kill game in the forests, but would be forced to " eat trees." ^Documentary History. " Petaoubough," — signifyinga double pond or lake branching out into two — is another Indian appellation, referring, probably, to its connection with Lake George. — R. W. Liv- ingston. 3 24 History of Essex County. them " the Eagle-nest Trail of the Saranacs." The site of the clearing held their village and council-place. They claimed as their exclusive hunting- grounds not only the Eagle-nest forests, but those of the Wampum Waters (the Stony Creek ponds), the Stream of the Snake (Stony Creek) and the Sounding River (the Raquette), from the lake of the Blue Mountain to Wild Mountain at the Leap of the Foaming Panther (Perciefield Falls). In other portions of the northern wilderness, but without the boundaries of Essex county, still more definite traces of Indian occupation have been dis- covered. Many of these traces also strongly indicate the presence of a people long anterior to the Indians and possessed of far more skill in the rude arts. It is not our purpose to enter at all into the fruitless argument to prove or disprove the theoryof the occupation of this continent by an earlierand more inteUigent race than the Indians ; but many indications render such a theory plausible, or else show that the Indians themselves had retrograded previous to the coming of Europeans, as they have since. " Nothing is more, common than to find along the lands that skirt the fertile bottoms which form the shores of the trib- utaries of the St. Lawrence, the broken remains of rude pottery, seldom suf- ficiently entire to enable one to determine the original form, and usually im- pressed, while in a plastic state, with various fanciful figures, differing from each other in fragments of different utensils, but possessing a general resem- blance. Not unfrequently a rude resemblance to the human face is noticed on these fragments. The material of this terra cotta is usually clay and coarse sand, generally well tempered and baked. Stone axes, gouges and chisels, flint arrow-heads, amulets and beads of steatite, and other personal ornaments, implements of bone, apparently used as needles and as tools for marking im- pressions upon their pottery, and fragments of bones and broken shells, the remains of ancient feasts, indicate in broken and disconnected, but still intelli-' gible language, the pursuits of our predecessors upon this soil"! Many of these relics are now in possession of persons living in the north- eastern counties of the State, and some of them show the workmanship of master hands and are equal in form and detail to the steel implements of mod- ern days. Traces of mounds and trench inclosures have also been found, par- ticularly in St. Lawrence and Franklin counties, all telling in mute language of a race that has passed away forever. To conclude a necessarily brief and imperfect consideration of the subject' of Indian occupation of Essex county, it may be stated that at the time of the advent of Europeans to this region, this territory "and the surrounding vicinity was at least nominally claimed by the Mohawks, the eastern branch of the Iro- quois Five Nations, while at the same time it was a part of the frontier of that great confederacy, as it was also of the northern and northwestern tribes.^ 1 Hough's History of St. Lawrence and Franklin Counties — 1853. 2The Algonquirs were a large family occupying (at the advent of the Europeans) all Canada, New- England, a part of New York and Pennsylvania; all New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia; Indian Occupation. 35 The Iroquois'- Indians who, we have presumed, were the nominal posses- sors of the territory treated in these pages, comprised originally five related tribes or clans, mostly within the present State of New York ; they were called Mphawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas and Senecas, and were located across the State from east to west in the order just named. Indian tradition ascribes their origin to Hiawatha, the incarnation of wisdom, about the beginning of the fifteenth century. He came from his celestial home to dwell with the On- ondagas, where he taught the related tribes all that was desirable to promote their welfare. Under his immediate tutelage the Onondagas became the wisest counselors, the bravest warriors and the most successful hunters. While Hia- watha was thus quietly living, the tribes were attacked by a powerful enemy from the north, who laid waste their villages and slaughtered men, women and children indiscriminately ; utter destruction seemed inevitable. In this extremity they turned to Hiawatha who, after thoughtful contemplation, ad- i vised a grand council of all that could be gathered of the tribes, saying, " our safety is not alone in the club and dart, but in wise counsels."- The council was held on Onondaga lake and the fires burned for three days, awaiting the presence of Hiawatha. He was troubled with forebodings of ill- fortune and had resolved to not attend the council ; but in response to the im- portunities of messengers, he set out with his beautiful daughter. Approach- ing the council he was welcomed by all, who then turned their eyes upward to behold a volume of cloudy darkness descending among them. All fled except Hiawatha and his daughter, who calmly awaited the impending calamity. Sud- denly and with a mighty swoop a huge bird, with long and distended wings de- scended upon the beautiful maiden and crushed her to death, itself perishing with the collision. For three days and nights Hiawatha gave himself up to ex- hibitions of the most poignant grief At the end of that period he regained his wonted demeanor and took his seat in the council which, after some delibe- ration, adjourned for one day. On the. following day Hiawatha addressed the council, giving to each of the five nations their location and degree of impor- tance, as we have already noted. The advice of the venerable sage was delibe- rated upon until the next day, when the celebrated league of the Iroquois was formed and its details perfected. Whether or not there is any foundation in fact for this traditionary source eastern North Carolina above Cape Fear, a large part of Kentucky and Tennessee, and all north and west of those States east of the Mississippi. They were the most powerful of the eight distinct Indian Nations in possession of the country when discovered by the whites. Within the folds of this nation were the Huron-Iroquois, occupying a greater portion of Canada south of the Ottawa river and the region between Lake Ontario and Lakes Erie and Huron, nearly all of the State of New York and a part of Pennsylvania and Ohio, along the southern shores of Lake Erie. — LossiNG. iThe name "Iroquois " was given these Indians by the French, who prefixed the name " Huron," because their language indicated the Hurons, who were seated on the shores of Georgian Bay, to be a part of the Iroquois family, and, like them, were isolated in the midst of the Algonquins when discov- ered by the French. — Lossing. 2 RUTTENBAR. 36 History of Essex County. of the confederacy, it grew into one of the most remarkable and powerful com- binations known to history, a marvel to civilized nations and stamping the genius that gave it birth as of the highest order. The tradition further relates that Hiawatha now considered his mission on earth as ended and delivered to his brothers a farewell address, which concluded as follows : " Lastly, 1 have now assisted you to form an everlasting league and covenant of strength and friendship for your future safety and protection. If you preserve it, without the admission of other people, you will always be free, numerous and mighty. If other nations are admitted to your councils they will sow jealousies among you and you will become enslaved, few and feeble. Remember these words, they are the last you will hear from the lips of Hiawatha. Listen, my friends, the great master of breath calls me to go. I have patiently waited his summons. I am ready; farewell." As his voice ceased the air was musical with sweet sounds and wHile they listened to the melody, Hiawatha was seen seated in his white canoe, rising in mid air till the clouds shut out the sight, and the melody, gradually becoming fainter, finally ceased.^ Previous to the formation of the Iroquois confederacy each of the five na- tions composing it was divided into five tribes. When the union was estab- lished, each tribe transferred one-fifth of its numbers to every other nation, thus giving each nation their several tribes, named as follows ; tortoise, wolf, bear, beaver, deer, potatoe, snipe, heron. The snipe and heron correspond with the Httle plover, and the hawk with the eagle of the early French writers. Some authors of repute omit the name of the Potatoe tribe altogether. These tribes were formed into two divisions, the second subordinate to the first, which was composed of the four first named. Each tribe constituted what may be called a family and its members, who were all considered brothers and sisters, were also brothers and sisters of the members of all the other tribes having the same device. It will be seen that an indissoluble bond was thus formed by the ties of consanguinity, which was still further strengthened by the marriage relation. It was held to be an abomination for two persons of the same tribe to inter- marry ; every individual family must therefore contain members from at least two tribes. The child belonged to the tribe, or clan, of the mother, not the father, and all rank, titles and possessions passed through the female line. The chief was almost invariably succeeded by a near relative, and always on the female side ; but if these were unfit, then a council of the tribe chose a successor ' Both reason and tradition point to tlie conclusion tliat the Iroquois originally formed one undi- vided people. Sundered, like countless other tribes, by dissension, caprice, or the necessities of a hunt- er's life, they separated into five distinct nations. — Parkma\'s Jesuits. By the early French writers, the Mohawks ard Oneidas were styled the lower or inferior Iro- quois ; while the Onondagas, Cayugas and Senecas were denominated the upper or superior Iroquois, because they were located near the sources of the St. Lawrence. * * ' To the Mohawks was al- ways accorded the high consideration of furnishing the war captain, or "Tekarahogea," of the confed- eracy, which distinguished title was retained with them until the year 1814. — Clark's Onondaga. Indian Occupation. 37 from among remoter kindred, in which case he was nominated by the matron of the late chiefs household. The choice was never made adverse to popular will. Chiefs and sachems held their offices only through courteous, winning behavior and their general good qualities and conduct. There was another coun- cil of a popular character, in which any one took part whose age and experi- ence qualified him to do so ; it was merely the gathered wisdom of the nation. The young warriors also had their councils ; so, too, did the women. All the government of this " remarkable example of an almost pure democracy in gov- ernment "^ was exercised through councils, which were represented by depu- ties in the councils of the sachems. In this peculiar blending of individual, tribal, national and federal interests lay the secret of that immense power which for more thari a century resisted the hostile efforts of the French ; which caused them for nearly a century to be alike courted and feared by the contending French and English colonies, and enabled them to exterminate or subdue their neighboring Indian nations, until they were substantially dictators of the con- tinent,2 gaining them the title of "The Romans of the New World." The military dominated the civil power in the league, and the army, which was supplied by volunteers, was always full. Every able-bodied man was sub- ject to military duty, to shirk which was an everlasting cause of disgrace. The warriors called councils when they saw fit and approved or disapproved of pub- lic measures. But their knowledge of what is now considered military science, while vastly better than that of many of their neighbors, was insignificant when viewed from a modern civilized standpoint. They seldom took advantage of their great numbers and acted in concert as a great confederacy, but usually carried on their warfare in detached tribes or parties. Their bravery, however, and their strategy in their peculiar methods of fighting, are unquestioned. In the forest they were a terrible foe, while in an open country they could not suc- cessfully contend with European disciplined soldiery ; but they made up for this, to a large extent, by their self-confidence, vindictiveness and overwhelming desire for ascendency and triumph. There is considerable difference in the writings of authors as to the true military status of the Iroquois.^ While the Iroquois Indians were superior in mental capacity and less im- provident than the Algonquins and other nations, there is little indication that they were ever inclined to improve the conditions in which they were found by the Europeans. They were closely attached to their warrior and hunter 1 LOSSING. 2 The Iroquois league or confederacy was given an Indian name signifying " They form a cabin," which was fancifully changed to "The long house," the eastern door of which was kept by the Mo- hawks, and the western by the Senee^s, with the great council fire in the center, with the Onondagas. ' They reduced war to a science, and all their movements were directed by system and policy. They never attacked a hostile country till they had sent out spies to explore and designate its vulnerable points, and when they encamped they observed the greatest circumspection to guard against surprise. Whatever superiority of force they might have, they never neglected the use of stratagem, employing all the crafty wiles of the Carthaginians. — De Witt Clinton. 38 History of Essex County. life ; hospitable to friends, but ferocious and cruel to their enemies ; of no mean mental capacity, but devoting their energies to the lower, if not the lowest, forms of enjoyment and animal gratification ; they had little regard for the marriage tie, and lasciviousness and unchastity were the rule ; their dwellings, even among the more stationary tribes, were rude, their food gross and poor, and their domestic habits and surroundings unclean and barbaric ; their dress was ordinarily of skins of animals, until the advent of the whites, and was primiti^^e in character; woman was degraded into a mere beast of burden; while they believed in a supreme being, they were powerfully swayed by superstition, incantations by " medicine men," dreams and the hke ; their feasts were exhibitions of debauchery and gluttony. Such are some of the more prominent characteristics of the race encoun- tered by Samuel Champlain when he floated up the beautiful lake that borders Essex county, two hundred and seventy-five years ago, and welcomed them with the first volley of bullets from deadly weapons — a policy that has been followed with faithful pertinacity by his civilized successors. These Indians possessed redeeming features of character and practice ; but these were so strongly dominated by their barbaric way of living and their savage traits, that years of faithful missionary labor among them by the Jesuits and others was productive of little good.^ The society of Jesus, or Jesuits, was founded in 1539 and planted the cross amid the most discouraging circumstances,' overcoming almost insurmountable obstacles, in Europe, Asia, Africa and America. When Champlain opened the way for French dominion in the latter country, the task of bearing the Christian, religion to the natives was assigned to this noble and unselfish body of devotees. While their primary object was to spread the Gospel, their second- ary and scarcely less influential purpose was to extend the dominion of France. Within three years after the restoration of Canada to France, in 1736, there were fifteen Jesuit priests in the province, and they rapidly increased and ex- tended their labors to most of the Indian nations on the continent, including the powerful Iroquois. ' _ In 1654, when peace was temporarily established between the French and the Five Nations, Father Bablon was permitted to found a mission and build a chapel in the Mohawk Valley. The chapel was built in a day. " For marbles and precious metals," he wrote, " we employed only bark ; but the path to heaven is as open through a roof of bark as through arched ceilings of silver and gold." War was again enkindled and the Jesuits were forced to flee from the Iroquois ; but their labors never ceased while opportunity was afforded. lln 1 712 Rev. William Andrews was sent among the Mohawks by the society for propagating the Gospel, to succeed Rev. Thoroughgood IMoor; but he abandoned the work in 1719, failing in it as his predecessor had. Says Hammond's History of Madison County ; " He became discouraged and asked to be recalled, saying, ' There is no hope of making them better — heathen they are and heathen they still must be.' " This is but one example of most of the missionary efforts among the Indians. Indian Occupation. 39 There were twenty-four missionaries who labored among the Iroquois be- tween the years 1657 ^"^^ 1769. We are directly interested only in those who sought converts among the Mohawks. These were Isaac Jogues, the recital of whose career in the Indian country forms one of the most thrilling chapters of history. He was with the Mohawks as a prisoner from August, 1642, to the same month of the next year, and as a missionary with the same nation in 1646, in October of which year he was killed. Simon Le Moyne was with the Mohawks about two months in 1655 ; again in 1656 and the third time from August, 1657, to May, 1658. He died in Canada in 1665. Francis Joseph Bressani was imprisoned by the Mohawks about six months in 1644. Julien Garnier was sent to the Mohawks in May, 1668, and passed on to the Onon- dagas and Senecas. Jacques Bruyas came from the Onondagas to the Mohawks in July, 1667, left for the Oneidas in September and returned in 1672, remain- ing several years. Jacques Fremin came in July, 1667, and reniained about a year. Jean Pierron was sent in the same year and also remained about one year. Francis Boniface labored here from 1668 to 1673, when he was suc- ceeded by Francis Vaillant De Gueslis. These faithful missionaries were followed in later years by such noble workers as Rev. Henry Barclay, John Ogilvie, Revs. Messrs. Spencer, Timothy Woodbridge and Gideon Hawley, Rev. Dr. Eleazer Wheelock, Rev. Samuel Kirkland, Bishop Hobart, Rev. Eleazer WiUiams, Rev. Dan Barnes (Methodist) and others of lesser note, all of whom labored faithfully and with varying de- grees of perseverance for the redemption of the Iroquois. But all were forced to admit that their efforts as a whole were unsatisfactory and discouraging.^ Later religious and educational work among the Indians, even down to the present time, while yielding, perhaps, sufficient results to justify its prosecu- tion, has constantly met with the most discouraging obstacles among the tribes themselves.^ The advent of European nations on the American continent was the fore- runner of the downfall of the Iroquois confederacy, and doubtless the ultimate extinction of the Indian race. The French invasion of 1693 and that of three years later cost the confederacy half of its warriors ; their allegiance to the iThe Rev. Mr. Kirkland, who acts as missionary among the Oneidas, has taken all the pains that man. can take, but his whole flock are Indians still, and like the bear, which you can muffle and lead out to dance to the sound of music, becomes again a bear when his muffler is removed and the music ceases. The Indians will attend public worship and sing extremely well, following Mr. Kirkland's notes ; but whenever the service is over they wrap themselves in their blankets, and either stand like ■ cattle on the sunny side of a house, or lie before a fire. — Doc. History. ■ Mr. Kirkland was one of the very ablest and most self-sacrificing of the missionaries, and what he could not accomplish in his work it may safely be concluded others could not. In reference to his labors an anonymous writer, in his Massachusetts Historical Collection (1792), says : "I cannot help being of the opinion that Indians .... . never were intended to live in a state of civilized society. There never was, I believe, an instance of an Indian forsakinghis habits and savage manners, any more than a bear his ferocity." 2 There is little existing evidence thjt the Jesuits labored in the vicinity of Lake Champlain, but Mr. Watson deems it improbable that they did not. 40 History of Essex County. British crown (with the exception of the Oneidas) in the Revolutionary War, proving to be an allegiance with a falling power, — these causes, operating with the dread of vengeance from the American colonists who had so frequently suffered at the hands of the savages, broke up the once powerful league and scattered its members to a large extent upon the friendly soil of Canada, or ' left them at the mercy of the State and general government, which consigned them to reservations. In this connection it is deemed for the interest of readers to insert a num- ber of Indian names as applied to rivers, lakes, islands, localities, etc., in the present State of New York, or near thereto, with their probable meaning as developed by various investigators : — " Chateaugay. — This is by some supposed to be an Indian name ; but it is French, meaning gay castle. The St. Regis Indians call it ' 0-sar-he-hon,' a place so close or difficult that the more one tries to extricate himself the worse he is off This probably relates to the narrow gorge near Chateaugay village. "Indian River. — On Morgan's map ' 0-je-quck.' The St. Regis name it by the same appellation as Black Lake, which see farther on. " Raquette River. — A French word, meaning a snow shoe. It is said to have been first so called by a Frenchman named Parisein, long before settle- ments were begun in that 'region, and that the name was suggested by the shape of a marsh near its mouth. The Iroquois name, 'Ni-ha-na-wa-te,' or rapid river, is peculiarly applicable. It is said that Colonel Louis, the Indian chief, told Benjamin Raymond, when surveying, that its Indian name meant ■ noisy river,' for which reason it has often been written ' Raquet' "St. Lawrence river. — 'Cat-a-ro-qui,' said to be French or Huron. Sig- nification unknown. On Morgan's map, ' Ga-na-wa-ge.' " St. Regis river and village. — ' Ak-wis-sas-ne,' where the partridge drums. " Salmon river. — ' Kent-si-a-ko-wa-ne,' big fish river. "Black lake. — ' 0-tsi-kwa-ke,' where the ash tree grows with large knobs for making clubs. " Champlain. — ' Ro-tsi-ich-ni,' the coward spirit. The Iroquois are said to have ofiginally possessed an obscure mythological notion of three supreme be- ings or spirits, the good spirit, the bad spirit, and the coward spirit. The latter inhabited" an island in Lake Champlain, where it died, and from this it derived the name above given. " Hochelaga. — Former name of Montreal, or its vicinity. " ' 0-ser-a-ke.' — Beaver dam. " Canada. — ' Ka-na-ta,' village. " Montreal. — ' Ti-o-ti-a-ke,' deep water by the side of shallow. " New York. — ' Ka-no-no,' signification not known. " Quebec. — ' Te-kia-tan-ta-ri-kon,' twin, or double mountains. Indian Occupation. 41 " Saratoga. — ' Sa-ra-ta-ke,' a place where the track of the heel may be seen, in allusion to a locality, said to be in the neighborhood, where depress- ions like footsteps may be seen on the rock. " Schenectady. — ' Ska-na-ta-ti,' on the other side of the pines. " Ticonderoga. — 'Tia-on-ta-ro-ken,' a fork or point between two lakes. — Hough. " Ticonderoga. — ' Che-on-de-ro-ga,' where the waters meet. It has eleven other Indian names. — STREET. " Mount Marcy. — ' Tahawus,' he splits the sky. " Mount Seward. — ' Ou-kor-lah,' the great eye. " Santanoni. — ' Si-non-bo-wanne,' the great mountain. " Mount Mclntyre. — ' He-no-ga,' home of the thunder. " Mount Golden. — ' Ou-no-war-lah,' scalp mountain, from the baring of the rocky peak by slides. "Bald Peak. — (North Hudson) ' 0-no-ro-no-rum,' bald head. "Whiteface. — ' Thei-a-no-gu-en,' white head. With reference to the naked white rock at its summit ; also, ' Wa-ho-par-te-nie.' " Hurricane Peak. — ' No-do-ne-yo,' hill of the wind. "Mount Pharaoh. — ' On-de-wa,' black mountain. " ' Kayadarosseras.' — The lake county. " Indian Pass. — ' He-no-do-wa-da,' the path of the thunderer. Also, ' Os- ten-wanne,' great rock; ' Otne-yar-heh,' the stonish giants; and ' Ga-nos- gwah,' giants clothed with stone. " Whiteface Glove. — ' Kur-loo-na,' spot of the death song. From the murmur of the pines in the clove. "Ausable Forks. — 'Tei-o-ho-ho-gen,' the forks of the river. " Flume of the Opalescent river. — 'Gwi-en-dau-qua,' a hanging spear. " The Iron Dam at the village of the Upper Works. — ' Tsi-nag-she,' place of beavers. " Lake Champlain. — ' Ganiadare Guarante,' the door of the country. Also, ' Peta-ou-bough,' a double lake branching into two — with reference to Lake George. — STREET. " Split Rock. — ' Re-gioch-ne,' or, Regio rock, or Rogeo. From the name of a Mohawk Indian drowned at the rock. It denoted the boundary be- tween the Iroquois and northern Indians. " Lake George. ■'— ' An-dia-ta-roc-ti,' the place where the lake narrows, or, where the lake shuts itself Also, ' Tsi-non-drossa,' and ' Ganiadere-oit,' tail of the lake, namely, part south of Ticonderoga. Likewise, ' Ka-nor-do-ro,' narrows of the lake ; and ' Horicon,' also tail of the lake, namely, appendage to Lake Ghamplain. Although the latter name was affixed by the novelist Gooper, taken from an Indian tribe, yet for its beauty, euphony, and adapta- tion, it should be adopted as the sole name. — STREET. 42 History of Essex County. " Lake Henderson. — ' Ga-nu-da-yu,' handsonne lake. " Lake Golden. — ' Ta-wis-ta-a,' the mountain cup. " Avalanche Lake. — ' Ta-ne-o-da-eh,' lofty lake, or, lake high up. (Lies 2,900 feet above tide). " Pharaoh Lake. — ' On-nis-ske,' white or silver lake. " Ausable Ponds. — ' Ga-wis-da-ga-o,' two goblets side by side. " Schroon Lake.- — 'Sca-ni-a-dar-oon,' a large lake. Abbreviated to ' Scaroon,' hence Schroon. The above is a Mohawk word found in old land papers, applied to Schroon lake. In addition, ' Ska-ne-ta-no-wa-na,' the largest lake. Also, ' Scarona,' the name of an Indian girl who leaped over a precipice from her French lover and was drowned. Likewise, ' Rogh-qua- non-da-go,' child of the mountain. " Schroon River. — ' Gain-bou-a-gwe,' crooked river. " Hudson River. — ' Co-ha-ta-te-a,' (Mohawk) great river having moun- tains beyond the (Cahoh) Cohoes falls. Also ' Sha-te- muc,' (Mohegan) from ' Shata,' a pelican or swan. The reason for the name is not known." In Mr. Street's Indian Pass he gives the derivation of the following names of mountains : Mount Marcy derives its name from William L. Marcy ; Mount Seward, from William H. Seward ; Dix's Peak, from John A. Dix ; Mount Mclntyre, from Archibald Mclntyre ; Mount Henderson, from David Hen- derson ; Mount Robertson, from Archibald Robertson ; Mount Golden (this mountain was formerly called Mount McMartin, from Duncan McMai-tin, but subsequently named after David C. Golden) ; Wallface derives from the wall of Indian Pass ; Whiteface, from the white feldspar at its summit, bared by slides ; the Noon Mark, from the sun standing over its top at noon ; Big Pitch- off, from a leaning rock of 500 feet at the northeast corner of its crest ; Little Pitch-off, from its impending appearance ; and both also from Pitch-off Moun- tain ; the Gothics, from their dark, wild aspect ; the Raven derives from such a bird shot upon the mountain by the first explorer for the State road from Sandy Hill to the Canada line. Wood Hill, from its leafy look ; the Gobble, generally supposed to be from the rock resting on the summit, but more evidently from its want of being " cobbled " or mended, or, as the phrase now goes, " reconstructed ;" Hurricane Peak, from a lurking wind rushing at all that climb the ascent ; Boquet river, named by William Gilliland, from the flowers upon its banks. Some assert it derives its name from Colonel' Bo- quet, who encamped upon its borders, but it bore the name before his ap- pearance. Others derive it from baquet, the French for bucket. Others again from bosquet, a thicket. European Discovery and Occupation. 43 CHAPTER IV. EUROPEAN DISCOVERY AND OCCUPATION. The First European Colonists — Discoveries by Columbus and His Immediate Successors — Com- petition for the New World Territory — New France audits Colonization — Failure of the Scheme — The Second Attempt and its Failure — Final Success — Champlain's Advent — Explorations under De Chastes and De Monts — Champlain's Colony of 1608 — Founding of Quebec — Champlain's Expedition against the Iroquois — The First Battle — Henry Hudson and Dutch Colonization — The English Colonies at Jamestown and Plymouth Rock — Claims of three European Powers — Subsequent Career of Cham- plain — Fortunes of New France. BEFORE we proceed to the consideration of eveiits immediately preceding and directly connected with the settlement of the Champlain valley, let us briefly glance at the more prominent earlier occurrences which prepared the way for it. It is now scarcely four hundred years since the occurrence of the event which began the civilization of the American continent by the race who are now its possessors ; and during the ages that preceded that event, no grander country in all respects ever awaited the advance of civilization and enlightenment. With climate and soil diversified between almost the widest extremes ; with thousands of miles of ocean shores indented by magnificent harbors to welcome the world's commerce ; with many of the largest rivers of the globe intersect- ing and draining its territory and forming natural commercial highways ; with a system of l^kes so grand in proportions as to entitle them to the name of in- land seas ; with mountains', hills and valleys laden with the richest minerals and almost exhaustless fuel ; and with scenery unsurpassed for grandeur, it needed only the coming of the Caucasian to transform a continent of wilderness inhab- ited by savages, into the free, enlightened republic which is to-day the wonder and the admiration of the civilized world. The first Europeans to visit America were Scandinavians, who colonized Iceland in 875, Greenland in 983 and about the year 1000 had pushed their discoveries as far southward as the State of Massachusetts. But it was towards the close of the fifteenth century before the country became known to southern Europe, a discovery accidentally made in a quest of a westerly route to India and China. In 1492 the Genoese, Christopher Columbus, set out on a voyage of discovery under the patronage of the Spanish power, and in that and the two succeeding years made his tropical discoveries. The Venetian sailor, John Cabot, was commissioned by Henry VII, of England, in 1497, to voyage to the new territory and take possession of it in the name of England. He dis- covered New Foundland and portions adjacent. In 1500 the coast of Labra- dor and the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence were explored by two broth- ers from Portugal, named Cortereal. In 1508 Aubert discovered the St. Law- 44 History of Essex County. rence, and four years later in 1512 Ponce de Leon discovered Florida. Ma- gellan, the Portugese navigator, passed through the straits which now bear his name in 1 5 19, and was the first to circumnavigate the globe. In 1 534 Jacques Cartier explored the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, and five years later Fer- nando de Soto explored Florida. In 1578 an English navigator named Drake discovered Upper California. These brief data indicate that not a century had passed after the discovery of Columbus, before the different maritime powers of Europe were in active competition for the rich prizes supposed to exist in the new world. While the Spaniards w6re pushing their acquisitions in the South, the French had gained a foothold in the northern part of the continent. Here the cod fish- eries of New Foundland and the prospect of a more valuable trade in furs opened as early as the beginning of the sixteenth century by Frenchmen, Basques, Bretons and Normans, held out the most glowing inducements. In 1 5 1 8 Baron Livy settled there (New Foundland) and in 1524 Francis I, of France, sent thither Jean Verrazzani, a noted Florentine mariner, on a voyage of explora- tion. He sailed along the coast 2,100 miles in the frail vessels of the period and returned safely to his country. On his coast voyage he entered a large harbor, which is supposed to have been that of New York, where he remained fifteen days ; it is believed that his crew were the first Europeans to land on the soil of the State of New York. He proceeded north as far as Labrador and gave to the whole region the name of New France, thus opening the way for the future contest between France and England. Ten years later(i534) the same French king sent Jacques Cartier, a St. Malo pilot, to the new country ; he made two vo3'ages and ascended the St. Lawrence river as far as Montreal (Hochelaga). As he sailed up the broad stream on St. Lawrence day (August loth, 1534) he applied to the river the name of the illustrious saint whose memory is perpetuated by that day. In the following year Cartier sailed from France with a fleet which bore many of the nobility of France, who departed for the new country filled with high hopes and bearing the blessings of the church ; they were to begin the colonization of " New France." They ascended the river and "moored at what is now known as the Isle of Orleans. Cartier from this point penetrated to the Indian town of Hochelaga. and to this he gave the name of Mont-Royal, the beautiful and opulent Montreal of modern times." 1 The explorer was warmly greeted by the Indians who tendered him the utmost homage and hospitaHty. The party of Frenchmen passed the ensuing winter at the Isle of Orleans, suffering much from the rigors of the climate, and, having taken formal possession of the country with a deal more of pomp and ceremony than of real acquisition and settlement, they abandoned their colonization scheme early in the following season and returned to France. As a beginning of the long list of needless 1 Watson's Essex County. European Discovery and Occupation. 45 and disgraceful betrayals, treacheries and other civilized (?) abuses to which the too confiding natives were subjected by the different European nations, Cartier inveigled into his vessel Donnegana, the Indian chieftain, who had been a gen- erous and hospitable host, and bore him with several others into hopeless cap- tivity and final death. The failure of this colonization movement and the severity of the northern winters prevented further attempts in the same direction for several years. In 1540 Cartier was sent back with Jean Francis de Robarval, a gentleman of Picardy, who was appointed by his king as lieutenant-general over the " new countries of Canada, Hochelaga and Saguenay ;" this commission conferred power over a vast territory with the plenary powers of vice-royalty.^ In 1 543 Robarval came over the second time, in company with the pilot Jean Alphonse, of Saintouge, when they took possession of Cape Breton. At this time the settlement at Quebec was begun. But Robarval was no more suc- cessful than had been his predecessor in colonization or in pushing discoveries, and for the half century succeeding his advent to New France, during which period the rulers of the mother country found their hands full of business in the religious wars which were occurring at home, little or nothing was accom- plished in that direction. In 1598 the next unsuccessful attempt was made to colonize the region of the St. Lawrence, by pouring out upon the country the convicts from the French prisons ; and it was finally left to private enterprise, stimulated by the hope of large gains from the fur trade, to make the first suc- cessful effort towards the permanent occupation of the country. By the year 1600 Chauvin had obtained a broad patent, which formed the basis of a trade monopoly, and repeated and prosperous voyages had been made. This commercial success stimulated others to enter the same field, and in 1603 Aylmer De Chastes and a company of Rouen merchants organized a company, the existence of which becomes of paramount historic importance as having introduced to the field of his later great work, Samuel de Champlain, discoverer of the lake and the territory of which this history treats, and the real founder of New France, as well as the most illustrious of those who guided its destinies. " Champlain was born at Brouage, a seaport situated on the Bay of Biscay. Addicted to an intercourse with the sea by the associations of his boyhood, near the most tempestuous waters of Western Europe, he gratified his instincts by a connection at an early age with the royal marine of his native country., Although a Catholic by birth and sentiment, he followed in the civil wars of France the ' Banner of Navarre.' When that cause had triumphed he re- ceived a pension from the gratitude of his liberal but impoverished leader. Too active and ardent to indulge in the relaxations of peace, he conceived the 1 This parchment title aud these titular functions overshadowed a vast region, and extended in every direction along the gulf and river St. Lawrence, comprehending in its wide domain the present limits of New England and Northern New York. — Watson. 46 History of Essex County. design of a personal exploration of the colonial possessions of Spain, and to thus obtain a knowledge of their condition and resources, which was studiously vailed from the world by the jealous policy of that government. His scheme was sanctioned by the wise and sagacious head of the French administration. Through the influence of a relative in that service Champlain secured the command of a ship in the Spanish West India fleet. This singular position, not' perhaps, in perfect accordance with modern conceptions of professional honor, was occupied two years, and when he returned to France his mind was stored with the most valuable information and his journal, ladened with the re- sults of keen observation of the regions he had visited, was quaintly illustrated by his uncultivated pencil." ^ De Champlain must have been born with the uncontrollable instinct of in- vestigation and desire for knowledge of the material world that has always strongly marked the great explorers. He made a voyage and landed at Vera Cruz, penetrated to the city of Mexico and visited Panama. More, his jour- nal shows that he conceived the idea of a ship canal across the isthnius by which " the voyage to the South Sea might be shortened by more than fifteen hundred leagues." When Champlain returned to France he encountered De Chastes, who had just obtained from his government the privilege of bearing to the new coun- try the Cross and there extending the dominion of France. Champlain saw here his opportunity, while De Chastes appreciated at its true value the pecul- iar qualities of the navigator. They became associated and Champlain, ac- companied by Pont-Greve, a skillful navigator, embarked in a simple vessel and sailed from Honfleur on the 5th of March for the St. Lawrence, which they reached after a short and prosperous voyage. Advancing up the noble stream to " Hochelaga " they found nothing left of the palisades described by Cartier sixty-eight years before, and but a remnant of the population that ex- plorer had discovered, in the forms of a few wandering savages of another race and language. These natives excited Champlain's visions of immortal fame by describing to him in rough drawings the course of the majestic stream, the lakes of its source, and the surrounding rich country. He thereupon de- termined to give up his future years to the exploration of this new world, and returned to France imbued with that purpose. Here he found the abettor of this enterprise, De Chastes, dead ; but his rights and privileges had passed to the Sieur de Monts, "a Protestant gentleman of character and high position." He had obtained from the government a patent which included in its scope a vast extent of territory, stretching from near the site of Philadelphia on the south to the Forty-sixth parallel on the north, and extending east and west indefinitely. Here he determined to found a colony which should enjoy among other blessings, freedom of religious belief and practice. But in gath- 1 Watson's Essex Countv. European Discovery and Occupation. 47 ering his colonists his impartiality included all classes, from the nobleman to the convict from the prison, and all shades of religious conviction or of none at all. Such a gathering amid the surroundings that existed at that time on the St. Lawrence could scarcely hope to endure. De Monts made an effort to colonize Acadia, and also occupied a portion of Maine. A companion of his founded a colony at Port Royal, the first permanent European settlement north of St. Augustine. In all these projects Champlain was intimately asso- ciated, from 1604 to 1607, during which period he explored the shores of New England to Cape Cod. He published a chart of this coast, which proved to be of great value. Finally the valuable prerogatives of De Monts were taken from him with- out scruple, and he conferred their privileges, as far as he was able, on the Baron de Pourtraincourt, with whom Champlain again sailed for. " New France." They were accompanied by a considerable number of colonists. Reaching the coast of New England they explored it still farther and again returned to France. In 1608 Champlain, having counseled his protectors that the banks of the St. Lawrence was a more propitious site for their new empire, he was sent with Pont-Greve. They embarked in a small vessel laden with all of the nec- essaries for the proposed colony, and materials with which to begin the fur trade. Sailing up the river they selected the bold promontory at the conflu- ence of the St. Charles with the St. Lawrence and there founded Quebec. Here active and energetic labor began. The forests were felled, cabins erected and fortifications built, and a garden was planted. In the succeeding September Pont-Greve sailed for France, leaving Cham- plain with twenty-eight companions, to occupy the little settlement until his return in the spring with additional supplies and colonists. The winter was a terrible one to the little band ; the scurvy broke out among them and when the vessel of Pont-Greve came up the river in the spring, only eight survivors wel- comed it and the comforts it brought for their relief To satisfy his thirst for exploration and conquest, Champlain prevailed upon Pont-Greve to remain at Quebec, while he should unite with the Indians and march forth into the unknown country which they had described to him. They had said that the country they desired to conquer was thickly settled ; that to reach it they must pass by a waterfall, thence into another lake, from the head of which there was a carrying-place to a river, which flowed towards the coast. This course of their intended march is clearly understood at this day as lead- ing up Lake Champlain to Ticonderoga ; thence up the outlet of Lake George past the falls ; thence through Lake George to the Hudson river. Accordingly, with this purpose Champlain made up his party of Indians (which was increased by the addition of sixty warriors at the mouth of the So- rel) and two Europeans and in May ascended that river to the Chambly rapids. 48 History of Essex County. in name twenty-four canoes, whence they reached " a great lake and gave it his own Passing along what now constitutes the eastern borders of Essex county, h? s^w what he thus mentions in his journal : " These parts, though agreeable, are not inhabited by any Indians, in consequence of their wars." On the other shore, though, he was assured by his companions, the Iroquois had many vil- lages which embraced "beautiful valleys and fields fertile in corn, with an in- finitude of other fruits." As they entered the great lake they saw " a number of beautiful islands filled with fine woods and prairies." " Game and wild ani- mals abounded on these islands." He describes the larger islands and the rivers that discharged " into the lake surrounded by fine trees similar to those we have in France, with a quantity of vines, handsomer than I ever saw, and a great many chestnuts." ^ Referring to the exuberance of fish in the lake, Champlain related some wild tales of his savage alKes. Continuing their route on the west side of the lake, he says, " and contemplating the country, I saw very high mountains on the east side covered with snow," and he observed " others to the south not less high but without snow." The Indians informed him " that here were beau- tiful valleys and fields, fertile in corn, with an infinitude of other fruits, and that this country was inhabited by the Iroquois." ^ In proceeding up the lake it was the practice of the Indians to send three of their canoes in advance, as night approached, and if no enemy was discov- ered, to retire in peace. Against " this bad habit of theirs " Champlain expos- tulated, but to little purpose. In this manner " they proceed until they ap- proach an enemy's country," when they advance " stealthily by night, all in a body except the scouts, and retire by day into picket forts where they repose." Thus the party proceeded up the lake to their landing-place, a full and graphic account of which journey is contained in Champlain's journal. Following is his vivid description of his meeting and battle with the Iroquois : — " Now on coming within about two or three days' journey of the enemy's quarters, we traveled only by night and rested by day. Nevertheless, they never omitted their usual superstition to ascertain whether their enterprise would be successful, and often asked me whether I had dreamed and seen their enemies. " At nightfall we embarked in our canoes to continue our journey and as we advanced very softly and noiselessly, we encountered a war party of 1 Mr. Watson says the wild grape vine is yet a striking feature in the natural products of the Cham- plain valley. He adds, " I conjecture that Champlain must have confounded the chestnut with the butternut tree, which occurs in abundance and of vast size in these localities." ^Upon this allusion Mr. Watson observes, "The presence of snow upon the mountains of Ver- mont, none of which exceeds 5,000 feet in height, in July is incredible, and (..hamplain was probably deceived by an optical illusion produced by clouds or mist. I am inclined, however, to conjecture that ^the words 'west' and 'east' have been transposed. From the east side of the lake he might have seen the bold and naked peak of ' Whiteface ' from \yhich that mountain derives its name. It is situated in the town of Wilmington." European Discovery and Occupation. 49 Iroquois.i on the 29th day of the month, about 10 o'clock at night, at the point of a cape which juts into the lake on the west side. They and we began to shout, each seizing his arms. We withdrew toward the water and the Iroquois repaired on shore, and arranged all their canoes, the one beside the other, and began to hew down trees with villainous axes, which they sometimes get in war, and oth- ers of stone, and fortified themselves very securely. Our party, likewise, kept their canoes arranged the one along side of the other, tied to poles so as not to run adrift, in order to fight all together should need be. We were on the water about an arrow shot from their barricade. " When they were armed and in order, they sent two canoes from the fleet to know if their enemies wished to fight, who answered they desired noth- ing else ; but that just then there was not much light, and that we must wait for day to distinguish each other, and that they would give us battle at sunrise. This was agreed to by our party. Meanwhile the whole night was spent in dancing and singing, as well on one side as on the other, mingled with an infin- itude of insults and other taunts, such as the little courage they had ; how pow- erless their resistance against their arms, and that when day would break they should experience this to their ruin. Ours, likewise, did not fail in repartee ; telling them they should witness the effects of arms they had never seen before ; and a multitude of other speeches such as is usual at the siege of a town. " After the one and the other had sung, danced and parliamented enough, day broke. My companions and I were always concealed, for fear the enemy should see us in preparing our arms the best we could, being, however, sepa- rated, each in one of the canoes of the savage Montaquars. After being equipped with light armor we took each an arquebus and went ashore. I saw the enemy leave their barricade ; they were about 200 men, of strong and ro- bust appearance, who were coming slowly toward us, with a gravity and assur- ance which greatly pleased me, led on by their chiefs. Ours were marching in similar order, and told me that those who bore three lofty plumes were the chiefs, and that there were but these three and they were to be recogniz'ed by those plumes, which were considerably larger than those of their companions, and that I must do all I could to kill them. I promised to do what I could, and that I was very sorry they could not clearly understand me, so as to give them the order and plan of attacking their enemies, as we should indubitably defeat them all, but there was no help for that ; that I was very glad to encour- age them and to manifest to them my good will when we should be engaged. 1 The name " Iroquois," is used in the translation of Champlain's works, and also here, as best ren- dering the meaning clear to the reader ; but it was, of course, not known at the time of the occurrence of these events. The Mohawks were known to the Dutch as the " Maquaes," and as " Agnies " to the Canadian Indians ; to the latter the name of " Montagners '' was applied, which was derived from a range of mountains extending northwesterly from near Quebec, as explained on the first page of this chapter. i so History of Essex County. " The moment we landed they began to run. about two hundred paces toward their enemy, who stood firm, and had not perceived my companions, who went into the bush with some savages. Ours commenced calling me in a loud voice, and making way for me opened in two, and placed me at their head, marching about twenty paces in advance until I was within thirty paces of the enemy. The moment they saw me they halted, gazing at me and I at them. When I saw them preparing to shoot at us, I raised my arquebus, and aiming directly at one of the three chiefs, two of them fell to the ground by this shot ; one of their companions received a wound of which he died afterwards. I had put four balls in my arquebus. Ours on witnessing a shot so favorable for them, setup such tremendous shouts that thunder could not have been heard ; and yet, there was no lack of arrows on the one side or the other. The Iroquois, were greatly astonished seeing two men killed so instantaneously, notwithstanding they were provided with arrow-proof armor, ^ woven of cotton thread and wood; this frightened them very much. Whilst I was reloading one of my companions in the bush fired a shot, which so astonished them anew, seeing their chief slain, that they lost courage, took to flight and abandoned their fort, hiding themselves in the depths of the forest, whither pursuing them, I killed some others. Our savages also killed several of them and took ten or twelve prisoners. The rest carried off the wounded. Fifteen or sixteen of ours were wounded by arrows ; they were promptly cured. . " After having gained the victor)'- they amused themselves plundering Indian corn and meal from the enemy ; also their arms which they had thrown away to run the better. And having feasted, danced and sung, we returned, three hours afterward, with the prisoners. " The place where the battle was fought is in forty^three degrees some min- utes latitude, and I named it Lake Champlain." This battle, the first of the long series that was to consecrate the locality with the blood of three contending powers, was doubtless fought near, if not directly upon the promontory afterwards occupied by Fort Ticonderoga. This opinion is advanced by the best authorities. The plan of the campaign and the route to be traveled, as described to Champlain by his savage com- panions, led beyond question up the outlet from Lake Champlain to Lake George. Hence there is no reason for assuming that they followed farther up the coast than Ticonderoga, and ample reason for believing that here would be their landing place. The Indians had told Champlain that after traversing the lake they " must pass by a water-fall and thence into another lake three or 1 Mr. Watson says that "the allusion to this armor presents an interesting and suggestive in- quiry. We know of the product of no indigenous plant, which Champlain might have mistaken for cotton. He must have been familiar with that plant. The fact he mentions implies either the exist- ence of a commercial intercourse between the. natives of the North and South ; or perhaps the Mohawks may have secured the cotton as a trophy in some of their southern incursions." Without desiring to argue the question, it is still pertinent to state that it is doubtful if the Indians could at that early date have obtained cotton upon any southern incursion. ' European Discovery and Occupation. 51 four leagues long." No clearer description of the route from one lake to the other can be written at this day. " Standing upon his field of battle, proud and confident of the future, and gazing out upon the beautiful sheet of water which had borne him to the scene of his triumph, Champlain gave to it his own name, and as such it per- petuates his memory. An attempt was made in later years by his country- men to substitute the name of ' Mer des Iroquois,' but this injustice was hap- pily prevented."^ Thus was signalized the first hostile meeting between the civilized white man and the untutored Indian. Low as the latter was found in the scale of intelligence and humanity, and terrible as were many of the subsequent bloody deeds of the Iroquois, it cannot be denied that their early treatment by the Europeans was scarcely calculated to foster in the savage breast any other feeling than bit- terest hostility. It is like a pathetic page from a romance to read that " the Iroquois are greatly astonished, seeing two men killed so instantaneously," one of whom was their noble chief; while the ingenuous acknowledgment'of Cham- plain, " I had put four balls in my arquebus," is a vivid testimony of how little mercy the Iroquois nations were to expect thenceforth from their northern enemies and the pale-faced race who were eventually to drive them from their domain. But it was an age in which might was appealed to as right oftener than in late years, and the planting of the lowly banner of the Cross was often pre- ceded by bloody conquest. In the light of the prevailing customs in the old world at that time, we must view the ready hostility of Champlain towards his helpless enemies. The Algonquin Indians, who had passed through a generation or more of warfare with the Iroquois and were generally getting the worst of the contest, now found themselves armed with a weapon with which they could, for a time, win victory on any field. Let us now turn for a moment to other events which had an important bearing on the settlement of this part of the country. A few weeks after the momentous battle between Champlain and the Indians, Henry Hudson, an intrepid English navigator, then in the employ of the Dutch East India Company, moored his vessel (the Half-Moon), a mere yacht, in the waters of the great river that now bears his name; this event occurred on the 3d of September, 1609. He met and entertained the natives, and was hospitably received by them ; but before his departure he conferred upon them experimental knowledge of the effects of intoxicating liquor — an experience perhaps more baneful in its results than that conferred by Champlain a hundred and fifty miles northward, with his new and murderous weapon. Hudson ascended the river to a point within less than a hundred miles of that reached by Champlain, returned to Europe ft 1 Watson. 52 History of Essex County. and, through the information he had gained, soon after estabhshed a Dutch colony for which a charter was granted in 1614, naming the region " New Netherland." In 1623 it was made a province or county of Holland. In 1614 they established a fort on Manhattan Island and one in the following year on the site of Albnny. In 1621 the Dutch West India Company was formed and took possession of " New Amsterdam" under the charter granted them. For fifteen years they remained at peace with the Indians; but the harsh and un- wise administration of William Kieft, who was appointed director-general in September, 1637, provoked the Indians to hostilities and opened a war which continued with but little interruption during the remainder of the Dutch occu- pancy, and often endangered the very existence of the colony. Meanwhile, in 1607, the English had made their first permanent settle- ment- at Jamestown, Virginia, and in 1620 planted a second colony at Plymouth Rock. These two colonies became the successful rivals of all others, of what- ever nationality, in the strife that finally left; them masters of the country. On the discoveries and the colonization efforts we have briefly noted, three European powers based claims to a part of the territory embraced in the State of New York. England, by reason of the discovery of Cabot, who sailed under letters patent from Henry VII, and on the 24th of June, 1497, struck the sterile coast of Labrador, and that made in the following year by his son Se- bastian, who explored the coast from New Foundland to Florida, claiming a ter- ritory eleven degrees in width and extending westward indefinitely. France, by reason of the discoveries of Verrazzani, claimed a portion of the Atlantic coast ; and Holland, by reason of the discovery of Hudson, claimed the country from Cape Cod to the southern shore of Delaware bay. As we have stated, the Dutch became:, for the time being, the possessors of the region under consideration. In concluding this chapter it will not be out of place to make a brief refer- ence to the later career of Champlain, intimately associated as he was with the civilized knowledge of the beautiful waters that bathe the border of Essex county, although the events noted are not directly connected with this history. The year following his discovery of the lake, Champlain passed in France ; but the opening season of 161 1 found him again ascending the St. Lawrence. He selected and laid out the foundations of Montreal and further advanced the in- terests of New France. But calamity threatened the colony, when Henry, who had been his firm ally and protector, was killed by Ravillac. Champlain turned back to France and secured the appointment first of Count de Soissons, and upon his death, of the Prince de Conde, as guardian and protector of New France, with all the powers of vice-royalty. In 1612 Champlain returned to Quebec, clothed with the power of sovereignty granted him by De Conde. In the following year he ascended the Ottawa in quest of a fabulous sea, of which he*had heard tales ; but he returned disappointed. Montreal soon became a European Discovery and Occupation. S3 trading mart of importance, and Conde succeeded in obtaining grants confer- ring extended privileges, and in 1615 Champlain returned to the scene of his toils, freshly inspired. He had become equally zealous in the CathoHc faith and took with him several Franciscan monks. A council was held at Montreal at which Champlain and the gathered Indians entered into a treaty of alliance for the extermination of the western tribes of the Iroquois.^ At the same time Le Caron, one of the monks, unselfishly offered to accompany the Hurons to their villages, which he did, and was the first European who gazed upon Lake Huron. Champlain again navigated the perilous waters of the Ottawa, traveled to Lake Nepissing and thence was guided to the great lake. He con- templated it with admiration and gave it the name of " Merdouce," which was changed to Lake Huron. ^ Here Le Caron had erected the cross and a te deum was chanted and a mass said. The Huron warriors assembled and, descending the lakes in great numbers, entered the country of the Senecas. Here they found a fort of great strength and constructed with remarkable skill, while their village was inclosed by strong palisades of timbers thirty feet in height. After a fruitless siege of several days, and in spite of the expostulations of Champlain, the baffled Hurons resolved to abandon the enterprise and retreat. Champlain was wounded in the knee and leg by the Seneca arrows and was bound to the back of a vigorous savage, " like an infant in its swaddling clothes," and carried many leagues, impatient and suffering. The approaching winter he passed in the lodge of a Huron chief and in visiting the remote tribes of the Algonquins. Returning again to civilization, Champlain erected the castle of St. Louis. In 161 6, at the end of one of his visits to France, he came back with a young and beautiful wife. In 1628 he heroically defended Quebec against the Eng- lish, capitulating only when his almost famished garrison were forced to aban- don the hope of succor. But peace soon liberated Champlain and restored Quebec to France. " Before and subsequent to these events, the checkered career of the explorer had been impressed by perpetual trials, perplexities and vicissitudes, with alter- nate depressions, and a return to power and position. Vanquishing by his in- flexible perseverance and profound sagacity the hostilities of rivals and the evasions of a despotic government, he returned the last time, in 1633, to the state his wisdom and zeal had created, invested by Richelieu with all his former pre- rogatives. Having suppressed the Indian excitement which had agitated his province, conciliated the jarring jealousies and angry feuds of mercenary traders and arbitrary officials, and amply asserted and perfected the dominion of his sovereign over a vast region, Champlain died in 1635, and is commemorated 1 Champlain asserts that he engaged in this scheme "to satisfy the desire I had of learning some- thing of that country." 2 Champlain stood on the northern shores of Lake Huron, a thousand miles from the Atlantic, five years before the foot of the Puritan Pilgrims rested on the rock at Plymouth. — Watson. 54 History of Essex County. in the annals of the country he served so ably and with such fidelity as ' the father of New France.'" CHAPTER V. THE FRENCH AND INDIAN WAR. The Champlain Valley as a Field of Warfsre — End of the Dutch Regime — De Courcelle's Expedi- tion — M. de Tracy's Incursion against the Mohawks — Events of 1666 and 1667 — Count de Fronte- nac — Peace of 1673 — Renewal of Hostilities — De la Barre's Proposed Expedition against the Sen- ecas — Arrival of De Nonville — His Policy — Invasion of the Senecas' Country —7 Revenge of the In- dians — Montreal Sacked and Burned — Return of Frontenac — 1 hree Expeditions — Schenectady Burned — English Apathy ■ — Failure of Two Movements against the French — John Schuyler's Successful Incursion — Deplorable Condition of the French Colonists — Famine — Frontenac's Operation against the Mohawks and Onondagas — Peace. FROM the date of the death of Champlain lintil the end of French domina- tion in New France, the friendship established by that great explorer be- tween the northern Indians and the French was unbroken, while at the same time it led to the unyielding hostility of the Iroquois, and especially of the Mo- hawks. If truces and formal peace treaties were formed between these antag- onistic elements, they were both brief in tenure and of little general effect. As a consequence of this and the fact that Lake Champlain was the natural high- way between the hostile nations, it became the scene of prolonged conflict and deeds of savage atrocity which retarded settlement and devastated its borders. " The feuds of the peoples of Europe and the malignant passions of Eiiropean sovereigns, armed the colonies of England and the provinces of France in con- flicts where the ordinary ferocity of border warfare was aggravated by the re- lendess atrocities of savage barbarism. Each power emulated the other in the consummation of its schemes of blood and rapine. Hostile Indian tribes, panting for slaughter, were let loose along the whole frontier upon feeble set- tlements, struggling amid the dense forest, with a rigorous climate and reluc- tant soil, for a precarious existence. Unprotected mothers, helpless infancy and decrepit age, were equally the victims of the torch, the tomahawk and scalping knife. Lake Champlain was the great pathway, equally accessible and useful to both parties, of these bloody and devastating forays. In the sea- son of navigation they glided over the placid waters of the lake, with ease and celerity, in the bark canoes of the Indians. The ice of winter afforded them a broad, crystal highway, with no obstruction of forest or mountain or ravine or river. If deep and impassable snows rested upon its bosom, snow shoes were readily constructed, and secured and facilitated their march." The French and Inijian War. 55 We made a brief allusion a few pages back to the hostility that was provoked between the Dutch and the Indians by the ill-conceived action of Kieft, who was director-general for about ten years succeeding 1637, when he was suc- ceeded by Peter Stuyvesant, in May, 1647, as director-general, or governor. He was the last of the Dutch officials in that capacity, and the firm and just course followed by him harmonized the difficulties with the Indians and also with the Swedes who had colonized in the region of the Delaware. On the 1 2th of March, 1664, Charles II, of England, conveyed by royal patent to his brother James, Duke of York, all the country from the River St. Croix to the Kennebec, in Maine ; also Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard and Long Island, together with all the land from the west side of the Connecticut river to the east side of Delaware bay. The duke sent an English squadron, under Admiral Richard Nicolls, to secure the gift, and on the 8th of September following Governor Stuyvesant capitulated, being constrained to that course by the Dutch colonists, who preferred peace with the same privileges and liberties accorded to the English colonists, to a prolonged and perhaps fruitless contest. Thus ended the Dutch regime. The English changed the name of New Am- sterdam to New York. The Dutch had, during their period of peace with the Iroquois, become thrifty and well-to-do through the energetic prosecution of their missionary work of trading guns and rum to the Indians, thus supplying them with a two- edged sword. The peaceful relations existing between the Dutch and the Indians at the time of the English accession were maintained by the latter; but strife and jealousy continued between the English and French, the former steadily gaining ground, both through their success in forming and maintaining an alliance with the Iroquois and the more permanent character of their set- tlements. In the hope of avenging past injuries and to put an end to future incursions, the people of New France resolved, in 1665, to send against the Mohawks a force that would not return until their enemies were wiped from the face of the earth. On the 23d of March of that year Daniel de Runy, Knight, Lord de Courcelles, was appointed governor of Canada, and in September of that year arrived with a regiment, several families and necessaries^ for the estab- lishment of a colony. In June of the same year M. de Tracy was appointed viceroy of the French possessions in America, and brought with him to Quebec four regiments of infantry. On the 9th of January, 1666, De Courcelles started with less th^n six hundred men on a long and perilous march of nearly three hundred miles in mid-winter, when the snow was four feet deep. " The gov- ernor caused slight sledges to be made in good numbers, laying provisions upon them, drew them over the snow with mastiff dogs." ^ The men traveled 1 It is recorded that the first horses were brought to Canada on this occasion. 2 Relations of the march. — Doc. History. 56 History of Essex County. on snow shoes. Lake Champlain was thus passed and after a march of thirty- five days, during which many of the men were frozen and all suffered great hardship, they arrived within twenty leagues of the Mohawks. Here they learned from prisoners taken that the greater part of the Mohawks and Oneidas had gone to a distance to make war upon the " wampum-makers." Watson says they " were only preserved from destruction by the active, though ill- requited beneficence of a small Dutch settlement, standing on the outer verge of civilization. The potent influence and urgent intercessions of a prominent, although private, citizen of Schenectady averted from the suffering and de- fenseless Frenchmen the vengeance of the exasperated Mohawks " — (refer- ring to Arent Van Corlear). His unselfish act was gratefully acknowledged by the colonial government, and De Tracy urged him to visit Quebec. Corlear accepted this courtesy in the year 1667, and while making the passage of Lake Champlain was drowned " by a sudden squall of wind, in crossing a great bay."i Deeming it " useless to push further forward an expedition which had all the effect intended by the terror it spread among all the tribes," ^ Courcelles retraced his march. The magnitude of this expedition, although it resulted in no immediate dis- aster to the Iroquois, prompted them to sue for peace, and a treaty was con- cluded in.May, June and July, 1666, by the Senecas, Oneidas and Mohawks, respectively. Pending the negotiations, the Mohawks committed an outrage on the Fort St. Anne garrison, and M. de Tracy was convinced that the treaty would be rendered more stable if the Mohawks were further chastised. Ac- cordingly in September, at the head of 600 troops and 700 Indians, he made an incursion into the Mohawk country, only to find it deserted by the wily savages. After destroying their villages and crops, he returned. In the following } ear (July, 1667) was concluded the peace of Breda, be- tween Holland, England and France. This gave the New Netherlands to the English, and Acadia (Nova Scotia), with fixed boundaries, to the French. But the period of quiet was of short duration, for in [669 we find the French again at war with their old antagonists, the Iroquois. On account of these unceasing hostilities the French found it difficult to harvest their crops in safety ; suffering and consternation prevailed and many prepared to return to France. But in April, 1672, Count de Frontenac was appointed governor and lieuten- ant-general of Canada, and under his efficient administration, confidence was restored and a treaty of peace again established in 1673.^ 1 Mr. Watson feels no hesitation in locating this bay as what is now known as Willsborough bay, in Essex county. He says : "I am strongly fortified in my conjecture by the statement of Dr. O'Calla- ghan, that an ancient map exists in the office of the surveyor-general of the State, on which this bay is named Corlear's bay." 2 Doc. History. 3 Count de Frontenac writes September 14th, 1674: "In spite of the efforts of the Dutch to get the Iroquois to make war on the French, the Iroquois came last year on solemn embassy to Montreal, brought eight children belonging to the principal families of their villages, and ratified the^treaty made with them in 1673." — Colonial History of New York. The French and Indian War. 57 In 1684 another rupture occurred between the French and Iroquois. M. de la Barre was then governor of New France, and Colonel Dongan governor of New York. The Frenchman led an expedition against the Senecas, but hearing that the latter would be reinforced by Dongan with " 400 horse and 400 foot," he gave up his purpose. This pretentious expedition, which ended so ignominiously, subjected De la Barre to severe censure and in the following year he was superseded by the Marquis de Nonville, who came over instructed to preserve a strict neutrality. This he found to be impossible and so informed his sovereign. Reinforcements were sent him for a determined attack upon the Senecas, and in the summer of 1687 an expedition of 2,000 French and In- dians was organized and marched against the enemy. This large force impelled the Indians to adopt their customary tactics for self-preservation, and their vil- lages were deserted, or nearly so. After destroying everything of value, the expedition returned. This bold incursion into the country of their strongest nation alarmed the Iroquois, and they applied to Governor Dongan for protec- tion. It was promised them, of course, with accompanying advice that they should not make peace with the French ; but De Nonville called a meeting of chiefs of the Five Nations at Montreal to arrange a treaty, and they decided to send representatives. Before this was consummated, and on account of alleged treachery on the part of De Nonville, the Iroquois became deeply angered against the French and burned for revenge. In July, 1689, 1,200 Iroquois warriors landed on the upper end of the island of Montreal, burned houses, sacked plantations, massacred men, women and children and retired with twenty-six prisoners, most of whom were burned alive. In October following they made a similar incursion at the lower end of the island, which was like- wise devastated. These successful invasions were of incalculable injury to the French interests, and becoming known to their Indian allies, already disgusted with De la Barre's failure, caused many of them to seek an alliance with the English and open trade with them. "They would have murdered the whole French colony to placate the Iroquois, and would certainly have done it," says Colden, " had not the Sieur Perot, with wonderful sagacity and eminent hazard to his own person, diverted them." The French colony was now in a pitiable condition, but an unexpected and welcome change was at hand. The divided counsels of the English colonies, growing out of the revolution in the mother country resulting in the accession of the Prince of Orange to the throne, gave a new aspect to affairs. The Count de Frontenac, whose previous administration had been wise and efficient, was again appointed governor May 21st, 1689, and arrived in October. Pie had learned the futility of prosecuting a war against the Iroquois and made earnest efforts to negotiate a peace with them. Failing, he determined to terrify them into neutrality. For this purpose he fitted out three expeditions, one against New York, one against Connecticut and the third against New England. The 58 History of Essex County. first was directed against Schenectady, which was sacked and burned on the night of February 9th, 1690. A band of the French and Huron Indians, after a march of twenty-two days "along the course of West Canada creek," 1 fell upon the doomed hamlet. But two houses were spared, and fifty or sixty old men, women and children and about twenty Mohawks, " in order to show them that it was the English and not they against whom the grudge was enter- tained." The French made a rapid but disastrous retreat, suffering from the severe weather and the harassing pursuit of their enemies. This and other assaults at other points so disheartened the people at Albany that they resolved to retire to New York ; their course was altered only after a delegation of the brave Mohawks had visited them and reproached them for their supineness, urging them to a courageous defense of their homes. This heroic conduct of the Iroquois challenges our admiration ; notwithstanding French intrigues and Jesuitical influence, combined with exasperating English apathy, which ap- peared willing to sacrifice these savage yet noble allies, they adhered to their early allegiance. Repeated incursions by the French and Indians at last awakened the Eng- lish colonists to the conviction that they must harmoniously unite in their 1 In a foot note in his excellent work on Essex county, Mr. Watson makes the following interesting observation : " This is opposed to the generally received idea that this road was along the line of Lake Champlain. A route by West Canada creek implies an avenue of communication between Canada and the Mohawk valley different from that afforded by the usual line traversed by the French, either from Oswego or by the way of Lake Champlain. The route mentioned possibly had a lernlinus on the St. Lawrence, near the mouth of the Black River. Writers constantly advert to the use of such an inter- mediate channel ; but their attention does not seem to have been directed to its locality or character. Sir John Johnson, it is stated, when he violated his parole arid fled with the mass of his tenantry to Canada, consumed nineteen days, with great exposure and suffering, in traversing the wilderness by some interior line, known to him and the Indians. But no further light is thrown upon a question, which to my mind is invested with much geographical and historical interest. I will venture the pre- sumption, that, at this period more than one familiar route had been established through the vast pri- meval forests, which embrace the western confines of Essex county, which still exist in their original gloom and solitudes. No other route would have been available, when both Oswego and Champlain, as often occurred, were in the occupation of a hostile power. The valleys of the streams which flow into the Mohawk and Hudson, and which almost mingle their waters with the affluents of the St. Law- rence, might have been ascended, and the lakes and rivers of the wilderness may have been used with great facility for a canoe navigation. A few trifling carrying places would have interposed only slight impediments, and when closed by the frosts of winter these waters could still afford a most favorable route of communication. Other avenues through this wilderness were undoubtedly accessible, but my own observation has suggested one which I will trace. The upper valley of the Hudson may have been penetrated, until the line is reached of a small branch, which, starting from the lakes in the vicinity of the Adirondac works, finds its way to the Hudson. Passing up the valley along which this stream gradually descends, the inaccessible range of mountains would be avoided. Thence traversing the In- dian pass in nearly an imperceptible ascent, the plains of North Elba would be reached and these open upon the vast plateau of the wilderness, along which the Racket rolls a gentle current, adapted to the Indian canoe, to the St. Lawrence. This idea possibly explains the origin of the modern name which has been assigned to the wonderful structures known to the natives as ' Otneyarh,' the place of stony giants. Gentlemen of great intelligence and careful observation have assured me that they have noticed evidences in the wilderness of other ancient pathways disclosed by still open tracks, the vestiges of rude bridges and the mouldering remains of coarsely hewn vehicles calculated for manual transportation." The French and Indian War. 59 efforts against their enemies, if they would succeed. A convention was accord- ingly held in New York in 1690, constituted of delegates from Massachusetts, Connecticut and New York, at which it was resolved to combine their strength for the subjugation of Canada. Massachusetts engaged to equip a fleet and attack the French possessions by sea, while the other two States should assault Montreal and the forts upon the Sorel. The land forces mustered at Lake Ceorge in formidable numbers, embarked in canoes and sailed to Ticon- •deroga. Embarking again on Lake Champlain, but little progress was made when the expedition was abandoned through failure in supplies and dissensions in the force. The failure of these efforts and the heavy expenses incurred left the colonies in a more defenseless situation than before. In the same year John Schuyler (grandfather of Philip Schuyler of Rev- olutionary fame) organized a band of about one hundred and twenty " Chris- tians and Indians" for an incursion into the French possessions. He cautiously passed down Lake Champlain and landed in the vicinity of Chambly.^ Leav- ing his canoes in safety, he penetrated to La Prairie, far within the line of the French fortresses. The unexampled bravery of the little force contributed largely to its remarkable success. They fell upon the French colonists, who were unsuspectingly engaged in their harvest, and in the savage spirit that then controlled such movements, committed young and old alike to slaughter. The ■" scalps of four women folks " were among the trophies. In the summer of 1691 Major Peter Schuyler led an expedition against the same settlement. He marched, according to his journal, on the 21st of June from Albany to Stillwater, twenty-four miles. On the 24th they proceeded to "Saraghtoga;" on the 26th to the first carrying place (Fort Mills), and thence to the second carrying place (Fort Edward). On the 28th they marched to the last carrying place (Fort Anne) where they biiilt canoes. July 9th "came Ger- rard Luykosse and Herman Vedder, from a party of eighty Mohawks, at a lake right over Saraghtoga [Saratoga lake, the Indian name of which was Kay- aderoga] who went by the way of Lake St. Sacrament ^ [Lake George] and 1 In Schuyler's journal he says that " they proceeded down the lake to Canaghsione " (the two rocks ' ten miles below Whitehall), "killing a couple of elk on the way for food." On the 15th they encamped a mile beyond "Cruyn Puint" (Crown Point). On the i6th they advanced to Kanordoro (the Narrows), and the 17th proceeded to Ogharonde (Windmill Point), where plans for the attack were laid. The 23d they reached La Prairie and found the inhabitants peacefully engaged in their harvest. The savages fell upon them and slaughtered indiscriminately. Returning, the journal says they, on the 26th en- ■camped at " the little stone fort," this being the first record of any considerable force halting at Ticon- " 14th, very cold clear weather. This day Mr. John McAuley acted as Vendue master in the sale of the carcass, hide and tallow of George Hicks' cow which was accidentally killed by an ox in the stall a few days ago, the sale was as follows, viz. : — "John Chism, i fore quarter of beef, " Nehemiah Smith, i hind quarter at . " And I fore quarter at " William Gilliland, esq., i hind quarter at " And I cow and 1 calf skin at " I head and tallow at ;^ 2 2 3 " Vendue master charges viz. : " Advertise the day of sale the three most publick places in Willsborough, £ 5 " Commission on sale at 5 per ct. 2 i 7 I h Ss ■s 12 3 s 3 10 3 7 3 2 3 First Conolization. 107 " Net proceeds to be paid to William Gilliland at Willsborough, for account of Geo. Hicks, £ i- 15 2. " The frequent appearance of new names throughout this Journal are some- thing of an indication of the gradual growth of the settlement, which must have been considerable. " 19th March. This forenoon he (Robt. McAuley) came with the mare, and Mr. Logan on his horse. Yesterday and to-day we had pleasant weather, fine sleighing across the lake ; this afternoon we went down the river and round Chism's Point to R. McAuley's on the ice. This day the Mr. McAuleys be- gun to draw logs for themselves to the sawmill, and this day Smith and Burke began to clear on my mother's lot." It is said that the horse mentioned here is was the first one introduced into Gilliland's colony. "April 1st, the wetness of this afternoon hurried me home (from a survey- ing expedition) to Milltown in order to have my trough secured, least the flood might injure it in case the river should break up. On my arrival found a con- siderable flood in the river, though not half broke up, the snow almost all off the cleared land. " May 5th, John and James Young, James Gilliland and his wife and Anne Hussey arrived this day from New York. " 7th, went with the Youngs to view their land ; they like the tract much. " 1 8th, went with the Youngs to lay out lots which they made choice of, and engaged from me at 12s. per acre, I giving each of them 50 acres at i pound sterling per acre forever, viz. — John Young's lot begins at a Pine tree standing at the edge of the lake on Cape Elizabeth (being William McAuley's S. E. tree) and runs from thence W. 147 1-2 ch., then S. 18 ch., then east to the lake, and along the lake to the place of beginning, containing 265 acres of land. James Young's tract begins at Elizabeth Sandy Point, and runs thence W. 139 ch., S. 21 ch., east to Lake Champlain, and along the lake as it runs to the place of beginning, containing 264 acres of land. Interest to be paid after the expiration of 12 mos. from this date." The last entry that occurs in the Journal in anything like regular order is that of June 2d, below. From that time on, the annals of the colony and the personal history of Gilliland must be made out in the light of tradition and the public documents, which will be alluded to. "June 2d, planted the following; muskmelons,, shaped 20th July; rad- ishes, lettuce, tong grass, parsley, savory, celeri, late cabbages, mustard, leeks and onions ; they all came up very short, owing I believe to dry weather." The next entry is under date of July iSth, 1772, and records a public sale, under the following interesting heading: "Agreeable to Advertisement pub- lished and put up at the house of Eliakan Ayres, the sale of said Ayres' farm and effects is that day brought on at his late house, for immediate payment in io8 History of Essex County. ready money, produce or work equivalent, viz., etc." One of tlie items in the charges of the "Vendue master," and which would scarcely be acknowledged in these days as a legitimate charge against the proceeds of the sale, was "rum at the vendue, ;^o 2 O." Here occurs a break of nearly three years in the Journal a period which witnessed great changes in the vicinity of Gilliland's colony and the birth of portentous events throughout the country. The little colony on the lake had grown apace ; lands were rapidly cleared and improved and everything betok- ened the steady advancement of the community in all the arts of peace ; while set- tlers were beginning to locate at other points along the lake from Ticonderoga (which see) to Canada. The progress of Mr. Gilliland's colony down to the spring of 1775 is attested by the formation of a local organization comprising the inhabitants, who bound themselves together by a somewhat remarkable covenant, which is here quoted. It appears from the writings of Mr. Watson that he considered this covenant to be the possible forerunner of other political measures on the part of Gilliland and his leading neighbors, looking to the es- tablishment of some sort of separate province, or government, of which he should be the head ; or that it at least had a deeper and more important purpose than appears on its face. Whether or not this is the fact, it is still more prob- able that another scheme, in which Gilliland and the Elder Skeene were the principal figures, had already been agitated, and which might have had an ex- tended influence upon the politics of the country. It contemplated the organ- ization of a new province, the limits of which were to extend from the St. Lawrence to the Connecticut, and from Canada on the north to an indefinite southern boundary. Skeene, then the possessor of large landed estates at Skeenesboro and other points in the vicinity of Lake Champlain, was to be made governor of the projected province, and Crown Point the capital. In support of this view Mr. Watson says in a foot note : " William Gilliland, the son of the pioneer, who at the commencement of the Revolution was a boy of fourteen, and died at Salmon river in 1847, assured Mr. Sheldon that this project was a theme of frequent conversation with his father. That he had often himself- read the corres^Dondence between Skeene and his father on the subject, and that he had letters of Skeene still in his possession. Mr. Gilliland, who was a gentleman of great intelligence, engaged to find the letters and submit them to Mr. Sheldon, but he soon after died without having opportunity to fulfill the engagement. With the permission and aid of the Messrs. Gilliland, who reside at Salmon river, on the original estate (1863), I have carefully examined the family pa- pers, but found no trace of these documents. I learn that on the death of the younger Gilliland a portion of his papers passed into the hands of another mem- ber of the family, and I have been unable to procure a further trace of them." If such a plan was seriously contemplated by men occupying such stations in their localities as were held by Gilliland and Skeene, and had been consum- First Colonization. 109 mated at a time when the controversy between Vermont and New York was at its height, the consequences might have been momentous. Following is the covenant of the people of Willsborough : — "WILLSBORO, MARCH 17TH, 1775. "We the subscribers, inhabitants of Willsboro, finding it necessary to make regulations concerning roads, fences, bridges, and hogs, have this day assem- bled for that purpose, and have entered into the following resolves. To be binding on us respectively, by every tie of honor and honesty, for the space of twelve months from this date, and also to be equally binding on such other persons as may become inhabitants of this settlement during the said term, which resolves are entered upon by a majority of votes. '^ " First, concerning roads, it is thought necessary the roads should be two rods wide, but for the present year only to be made as the overseers shall think sufficient. The owners to clear the wood off his own lot for one road as far as the road goes on his lot. "Secondly — it is resolved, that the road so far as it may pass through land not taken up shall be made in the manner before mentioned ; also the bridges to be made of good lasting timber and such banks as must be dug away, shall be done by the settlement in general. Each man assisting thereat faithfully, who are capable thereof, on being thereunto named by the overseers. " Thirdly — resolved, that as to bridges it is necessary to build one across Mr. McAuley's creek ; one across the gully, one across Plum creek ; oae across Mr. Ithamer Day's creek, and the bank be dug away; one across Armstrong and McGinniss brook, one across the two brooks .of George Brymers, and one across a small brook opposite to Mr. George Belton's house ; also that the road from Mr. Belton's to Mr. Gilliland's saw-mill shall be kept open and passable at the general charge as above ; the whole to be done next fall as the overseers shall direct ; and such persons as shall fail or neglect to perform their part shall pay such other person or persons as shall be hired at five shillings per day, and that neither gates or bars shall obstruct the said road. " Fourth — as to fences, resolved, that if any damage shall be committed by small or large cattle on the land or lots of those whose fences are five feet high and otherwise close and strong, the same shall be paid by the owner of said cattle according as the overseers, of the fences shall apprize, providing that hogs shall be yoked from the first of July, to the middle of October with good and sufficient yokes. " Also that the roads shall be laid out betwixt this time and next fall by the overseers assisted by Mr. Gilliland. 1 Here is the essence of a democratic and representative government. The majority control, malce laws, and levy taxes, and those who voluntarily become members of the community are to be governed by tliis action. The identity of spirit and almost of language in tliis humble compact, and the memor- able pledge \\hich, scarcely a year later, linked together an heroic band of patriots, is somewhat re- mar'