ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass ^ From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 090 142 211 The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924090142211 ■■^.sry'y GOOD HOUSEKEEPER'S COOK BOOK BY EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD EDITED BY M. A. ARMINGTON ILLUSTRATED NEW YORK CUPPLES & LEON COMPANY IK COFTBIGHT, 1908, BY TSE New Tobe Hebaio Oel NEW REVISED EDITION OOFSBIGHT, 1914, BY SlBiE New YasK Hebald Oo. aU RightB Beservea TABLE OF CONTENTS DEFASTMENTS PAGES Tables of Weights and Measures vii Measurements Equivalent to One Pound viii Table of European Measures c: ix Time Tables for Cooking x to xiv Soups 5 to 11 Fish 12 to 20 Poultry 21 to 26 Eggs 27 to 31 Meats 32 to 48 Vegetables 49 to 80 Game 81 to 88 Sauces 89 to 94 Salads ,. 95 to 101 Cookies 102 to 104 Pastry 105 to 141 TABLE OF CONTENTSr-Continued DEPAHTMENTS PAGES Bread 142 to 154 Candies 155 to 163 Preserves and Jellies 164 to 187 Drinks 188 to 194 Ices 195 to 200 Dishes for Invalids 201 to 207 Menus 208 to 248 Index,..,.., 249 to 256 TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. The inexperienced housewife will find the following tables of weights and measures of wonderful help in her first culinary efforts; while even the experienced cook will find this ready reference arrangement of ines- timable value when attempting recipes that, without these simple rules, would necessitate a waste of time in tedious weighing. Measuring-cups, holding one-half pint, divided into quarters or thirds, and measuring- spoons — teaspoons and tablespoons — may now be obtained in any hard- ware or department store. By having this kitchen measuring-set the young housekeeper will have much better success than by using the haphazard method — "a favorite measuring-cup and spoon"— of a gen- eration ago, with its vexatious results. A case-knife, for leveling and dividing ingredients, should also be at hand, as it is almost indispensable in securing uniform measurements. It should be remembered that flour, meal, powdered and confectioners' sugar should be sifted before measuring. Mustard and baking powder, from standing in boxes, should be stirred to lighten; while salt, which is inclined to lump, should be rolled and crushed between sheets of strong manila paper. When a recipe calls for a "cupful" it means all the 'cup will hold; a "teaspoonful" or a "tablespoonful" means all the spoon will hold — the case-knife to be used in leveling the top. In measuring butter or other fats, pack firmly into the cup or spoon and level with the knife. 1 cup equals 54 pint. 1 gill equals Yt. cup. 1 common tumblerful equals J^ pint. 1 common wineglassful equals 4 tablespoons — J^ gill. 16 tablespoons equal 1 cup. 3 teaspoons equal 1 tablespoon. 2 tablespoons butter equal 1 ounce. 4 tablespoons flour equal 1 ounce. 1 heaping tablespoon granulated sugar equals 1 ounce. 2 heaping tablespoons flour equal 1 ounce. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 2 heaping tablespoons powdered sugar equal 1 ounce. 2 heaping tablespoons ground coffee equal 1 ounce. 1 tablespoon milk, vinegar or brandy equals Yz ounce. A breakfastcupful of bread crumbs well packed equals about 4 ounces. A breakfastcupful of very finely chopped suet slightly heaped up weighs about 4 ounces. A heaping breakfastcupful of brown sugar weighs about half a pound. . A heaping breakfastcupful of stoned raisins, well packed, weighs about half a pound. 1 square Baker's chocolate equals 1 ounce. Yi cup almonds blanched and chopped equals 1 ounce. "A few grains" is less than one-eighth teaspoon. "A dash of pepper" equals Yt saltspoonful. The juice of an ordinary lemon is about a tablespoonful. MEASUREMENTS EQUIVALENT TO ONE POUND. The following table, showing the amount of diflerent ingredients that constitute a pound, will be found very useful and practical for quick, reliable reference when making pound-cake, etc. Butter, or other fats, packed solidly 2 cups Coffee 454 " Corn meal, granulated ly^ " Eggs large 9, smaller 10 Flour, pastry etc., sifted 4 " Flour, entire wheat Z% " Flour, Graham 4}/^ " Meats, finely chopped 2 " Milk or water 2 " Oatmeal 2?^ " Oats, rolled 4^^ « Rye meal 4j4 " Rice \T/i " Sugar, granulated 2 " Sugar, powdered 2% " Sugar, confectioners' 3H " Sugar, brown 2}^ " WEIGHTS AND MEASUBES TABLE OF EUROPEAN MEASURES. Should the housewife be following recipes from French or English sources, she should measure all teaspoonfuls and tablespoonfuls of solid or dry ingredients rounding, or, in other words, as much above the spoon as below. This table for both solid and fluid ingredients will be fotmd useful in following such recipes. 1 rounding tablespoonful of flour J4 ounce 1 " " " sugar 1 " 1 " " " butter 1 " 1 tablespoonful of ordinary liquids J4 " 1 teaspoonful 54 tablespoonful 2 teaspoonfuls 1 dessertspoonful 4 teaspoonfuls 1 tablespoonful 1 dessertspoonful Vz tablespoonful 2 dessertspoonfuls ■ , 1 tablespoonful 1 saltspoonful yi teaspoonful 45 drops of water 1 teaspoonful 1 teaspoonful 1 fluid dram 16 oz. avoirdupois, or commercial weight 1 pound A hundredweight 112 pounds TiV/i gallons — ^liquid measure 1 barrel 2 barrels 1 hogshead 1 barrel of potatoes, about. ISO pounds 1 " " flour 196 1 " " sugar, about 350 TIME TABLES FOR COOKING. These rules should be modified according to the age and quality of the meat, fish, fruit or vegetables; according to the size of the loaves of bread or cake, and according to the method Hsed in roasting or baking — whether it be a quick or slow method or en casserole. Baking and Roasting. Apples, sweet (slow) 30 minutes Apples, sour (slow) 20 " Bananas 30 " Beans, with pork 6 to 8 hours Beef, fillet, rare 20 to 30 minutes Beef, ribs or loin, well done per pound 12 to 16 " Beef, ribs or loin, rare " " 8 to 10 " Beef, braised " " SO to 60 Bread (white, loaf) 45 to 60 " Bread (Graham, loaf) 35 to 45 " Bread (sticks) 10 to IS " Bread (entire wheat) 1 hour Biscuits or rolls (raised) 12 to 20 minutes Biscuits (baking powder) 12 to 20 " Com Cake (thin) IS to 20 Com Cake (thick) 30 to 35 Cake (layer) 10 to 15 Cake (loaf) 40 to 60 Cake (pound) l^A to IJ^ hours Cake (fruit) 1^4 to 2j^ " Cake (wedding) 3 " or steam 2 hours and bake l}^ hours Cake (sponge) .,• 45 to 60 minutes X TIME TABLES FOR COOKING Cookies 5 to 10 minutes Chicken per pound IS minutes or more Cheese straws 8 to 10 minutes Duck, domestic per pound 25 " Duck, wild " " 12 " Fish, whole, as bluefish, salmon etc., " " 15 " Gems 25 to 30 " Gingerbread 20 to 30 " Goose per pound 15 " Grouse 25 to 30 " Ham per pound 15 " Lamb, well done " " IS to 18 Lamb, leg. " " IS " Lamb, forequarter " " 15 " Lamb chops 15 to 20 " Liver, whole per pound 12 " Muffins, baking powder 20 to 25 " Muffins, yeast about 30 Mutton, leg, well done per pound IS minutes or more Mutton, leg, rare " " 10 " Mutton, saddle, rare, without flank " " 9 " Mutton, shoulder, stuffed " " IS to 25 Oysters, scalloped 25 to 30 " Partridge 20 to SO " Patties 20 to 2S Pies 30 to 40 Pie crust 12 to 18 Pigeons, potted 2 hours Pork, well done per pound 30 minutes Pork, chine or spareribs 3 to 3j4 hours Potatoes, white 40 to 45 minutes Potatoes, sweet, medium size ■• 30 to 40 " Pudding, baked batter 35 to 45 " ' Pudding, bread 30 to 40 '. Pudding, custard 30 to 45 " Pudding, custard, baked in cups 20 to 25 " Pudding, Indian 2 to 3 hours Pudding, poor man's rice 2 to 3 " Pudding, tapioca 1 hour Scalloped and au gratin dishes 20 to 30 minutes Scalloped dishes of cooked mixtures 10 to 15 " Tarts 15 to 20 Timbales about 20 " TIME TABLES FOR COOKING Tomatoes, whole, slow oven 30 to 40 minutes Tomatoes, stuffed. 30 to 40 " Turkey per pound IS " Veal, well done " " 18 to 20 Venison, rare " " 10 " .Waffles 2 to 3 Boiling. Asparagus 20 to 30 minutes ^Artichokes, globe, sliced 45 " Artichokes, Jerusalem, sliced 20 to 30 " Artichokes, Jerusalem, whole 4S " 'Beans, string 1 to 2 hours 'Beans, shelled, green 45 minutes Beans, lima, dried, soaked 45 " Beans, lima, young, fresh 30 " Beans, soup, dried, soaked overnight, slowly. 2 hours Beans, if for baking, until skin cracks 30 minutes Beef, fresh per pound 25 to 40 " Beef, corned " " 30 " Beets, new 45 to 60 Beets, old 4 to 6 hours Brussels sprouts, fresh 30 minutes Cabbage, quarter head 20 Cabbage, chopped 20 Carrots, cut into dice 30 to 40 Cauliflower 20 to 30 Celery, stewed 30 Coffee , 1 to 3 Corn, green, sweet, after it begins to boil 7 Chicken per pound 15 to 20 Fowl, if tender " " IS Cucumbers, cut into quarters 30 Eggs, soft boiled 3}4 to 5 Eggs, hard boiled 20 to 25 Fish, small 6 to 10 Fish, bass and blue per pound 10 Fish, clams and oysters 3 to 5 Fish, codfish and haddock per pound 10 Fish, halibut, whole or thick piece. " " 15 Fish, salmon, whole or thick piece " " 10 to 20 Ham " " 25 to 30 FTER washing one pint of the black or turtle beans, cover well with cold water and let them soak over night. In the morning put in the soup kettle over the fire, adding five quarts cold water, a half pound of salt pork cut in fine pieces and a quarter pound lean, fresh beef. Cover closely and cook over a mod- erate fire for an hour. Chop fine one carrot, one small turnip and two small onions. Add to the other ingredients and continue the cooking two or three hours longer. Half an hour before serving season with salt, pepper, a tiny pinch of mace and a little ground clove. Strain through a colander, then add a half gill sherry or port. Have ready in a hot tureen three or four hard boiled eggs, sliced, and one lemon cut' in thin pieces. Pour the soup over them and serve with croutons, which are simply little cubes of bread toasted to a golden brown in the oven. After cutting the bread spread on pie tins and watch closely, shaking the tins from time to time until all the pieces are evenly colored. Kept in glass cans these crou- tons may be made ahead, as you have a few slices of stale bread, and are then always ready for immediate use. Sometimes very small sau- sages are boiled for ten minutes in this soup and served one in each plate. CREAM OF CELERY SOUP.— Do not use the green, outermost stalks of celery, but those partially blanched. Wash and scrape, and when you havd the equivalent of two heads, cut in inch pieces, using a few of the leaves, cover with a quart of water or water and white stock, and cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour. When tender press through a puree sieve, add a quart of hot milk, and when it reaches the boiling point thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour blended with the same amount of butter. Stir constantly until the soup is smooth and creamy, add a tablespoonful of minced parsley and a half cup of cream and serve with soufHe balls. 6 SOUI SPLIT PEA SOUPv— For this you can use either the green or yel- low split peas. Pick over carefully, removing all imperfect ones, wash thoroughly, cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morn- ing pour off the water in which they were soaked and put into the soup kettle; allow for two cups of the peas four quarts cold water, a half pound fat salt pork cut in small pieces, and if you happen to have it, a ham bone or bit of bacon. Cover closely and let simmer on the back of the range for five or six hours, taking care that it does not scorch. About an hour before serving add two medium sized onions, chopped, two stalks of celery and a sprig of parsley. At the end of an hour, strain through a coarse sieve and return to the stock pot the soup, which will be smooth and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper, add a pint of hot milk or not, as preferred, and if liked quite thick, beat in a tablespoonful flour stirred smooth with a tablespoonful of butter. Cook ten minutes longer and serve with the croutons. A tablespoonful of fine minced parsley sprinkled in at the last makes a pretty garnish, and quarters of cut lemon passed with soup are welcomed by many. VIRGINIA OYSTER SOUP.— Take two quarts fresh oysters and wash through two waters. Strain the liquor and add to it two stalks celery, chopped fine; four blades of mace, black pepper, cayenne and salt to season. Simmer five minutes; then add a quarter pound butter rubbed smooth with two tablespoonfuls flour and three pints rich milk or part cream. Let them come to a good boil; stir all the time; add the oysters and let them boil up once, no more, or they will shrivel. Serve at once. SCOTCH BROTH. — Remove skin and fat from three pounds scrag of mutton and cut in small pieces, scraping the meat from the bones. Put the bones in one kettle with a pint and a half of cold water and simmer gently. At the same time put the meat in another kettle and cover with two quarts of cold water. Bring quickly to a boil, skim carefully, then add three-fourths of a cup of barley that has been soaking several hours in cold water, and skim again. Have ready a scant half cup each of carrot, onion, turnip and celery, cut into small dice, and add to the kettle with the meat. Strain off the stock in which the bones have been cooking, to be sure no splinters of bone get in. Cook to- gether in the frying pan two tablespoonfuls of butter and a spoonful and a half of flour, add a cupful of the strained water gradually, then when smooth and thickened put in the pot of broth. Season with salt, pep- per and a little minced parsley, simmer ten minutes longer and serve without straining. FISH SOUP.— Put a tablespoonful of butter in a stewpan over the fire and then fry in it three chopped onions. When a golden brown add a cup of tomatoes, a carrot, three or four whole cloves, salt and pepper to season. Put in a dessertspoonful sugar, a bay leaf, sprig of thyme and a quart of water. Cook until the carrot is quite soft, then add any SOUPS f cold fish, bones and all, or thin slices of raw Ush, and simmer twenty minutes. To*at small pieces of bread, enough to cover the bottom of the soup tureen. Add a half sflass of white wine to the soup, strain over the toast and serve. SAVORY SOUP.— This is known to good French housewives as "Soup de la bonne menagere," and it is well named. Its ingredients may be varied according to materials on hand, but here is an excellent framework to go by. Cut into fine dice one large onion, one good sized turnip and two small carrots and fry brown in drippings or butter. Then add to them a half cup of hot water and let simmer about twenty min- utes. Now put into the soup kettle with half a can stewed tomatoes a small cup chopped raw cabbage, four stalks celery and a bunch of parsley chopped. If you have fresh thyme and summer savory, put in a sprig of each. Failing fresh herbs, drop in for half an hour one of the little soup bags that come already prepared for seasoning soups. These are invaluable where soups are frequently used. Now if you have bones left over from roast beef, veal or chicken, add them, taking off any meat that clings, cut in small pieces and add at the last. Cover bones and vegetables with three quarts boiling water and stew gently for four hours. Then thicken slightly with a cupful mashed potato or a tea- spoonful cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water, remove the bones and seasoning herbs, add the diced meat and a teaspoonful minced pars- ley and serve hot. CLAM BROTH SERVED EN TASSE.— Wash three dozen Little Neck clams in the shell in cold water, place in a saucepan over the fire, add a quart of hot water and cook until the shells open. As fast as they do so, remove the clams from the shells and chop. Return the chopped meat to the clam "broth, with a pat of butter, pepper to season, and more salt if required. Cook five minutes and serve hot or cold in cups with crackers. CLAM CHOWDER.— Put into the bottom of a kettle some thin slices of fat salt pork and fry crisp, but not too brown. Next add a layer of potatoes cut in rather small pieces, then one of finely sliced onions, next one of tomatoes, then a layer of finely chopped clams, preferably Little Neck. Crush a handful of pilot biscuit in the hand and spread over the clams, repeating this process until the kettle is nearly full, seasoning each layer of clams with a very little salt and pep- per. Over the top sprinkle some of the regular chowder spice that comes already mixed, or make your own mixture of a little thyme, a few tarragon leaves and a couple of bay leaves, with a dusting of ground cloves. When everything is in pour in the juice of the clams and water to nearly cover, put on a tight fitting lid and stew slowly three-quarters of an hour. Uncover, give the chowder a stir and serve. CLAM BOUILLON. — Chop fine two cnpfuls clanae and put in a sauce- pax »n« 4tfi« Str* m. their ewa Ugvor. Scald and «kiai, then add two' • SOUPS cupfuls boiling water, one tablespoonful chopped celery, a sprig of pars- ley, a bay leaf and pepper to season. Bring to a boil, skim, strain through a cheesecloth and serve in cups with whipped cream on top. TURKEY SOUP.— This is made of the framework and other left- OTers of the turkey. Put the carcass and other bones in the soup kettle, cover with cold water, add a sliced onion, a cupful of tomatoes, half a cupful of well washed celery tops, and salt and pepper to season. Simmer gently two or three hours, until the bones are clean, then strain and serve. BEEF SOUP.— Get a shin of beef and have the bones cracked. Put over the fire in a large kettle with a gallon of water (cold), and sim- mer six hours; skim well. Then add two turnips, chopped fine, two carrots, one onion, two Irish potatoes, all chopped, a pint of tomatoes, a tablespoonful of salt, and in season a half dozen ears of corn, the corn cut from the cob, the cobs to be added when ready to thicken, then re- move. Just before dinner thicken with a little browned flour mixed with cold water; boil a few moments, add seasoning if necessary, and serve. POTATO SOUP.— Wash, peel and cut four medium sized potatoes into small pieces. Put into a stewpan with cold water to cover, add a teaspoonful salt and cook until the potatoes are done. Take from the fire, drain off the water, mash and turn over them a pint of milk sea- soned with a teaspoonful chopped onion, celery or celery seed that has been scalded in a double boiler. Mix well, season to taste, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour melted with a tablespoonful of butter, add a tablespoonful minced chives or parsley and serve with croutons or crackers. CONSOMME. — Consomme proper is a double stock — that is a broth prepared from beef and chicken or veal. The meat and vegetables are cooked to pieces so as to extract every bit of the flavor. The broth is then cleared from every particle of fat and clarified until as clear as amber. Here is a reliable recipe for consomme that may be altered a little according to materials on hand: — Four pounds lean beef, pre- ferably from the shin; four pounds knuckle of veal or a little smaller quantity of fowl, four quarts cold water, an eighth of a pound of lean ham or bacon chopped, a half dozen each cloves and peppercorns, one bay leaf, three onions, one carrot, one turnip, two stalks celery, three sprigs parsley, a tablespoonful salt, a bunch kitchen herbs, three eggs {whites and shells), the rind and juice of one lemon. Wipe and cut the meat in small pieces, wash, peel and cut the vege- tables in thick slices. Put the bones, marrow and part of meat in the stock pot and cover with the water. Meanwhile brown the vegetables in a little dripping or some of the ham fat, then brown the remainder of the meat. Add to the contents of the kettle together with the various seasonings and simmer five or six hours until the meat is in rags. Strain and, when cold, remove the fat. SOUPS 9 Heat the soup again, mixing with it the whites of the eggs with the crushed shells and the lemon. Boil ten minutes, strain through a fine strainer, heat again and serve with slices of lemon. CREAM OF CORN PUREE.— For this you can use a pint of fresh corn, cut from the cob, or a pint of this vegetable canned. Add to a pint of plain white stock or simply water, let it come to a boil and cook ten minutes. Meantime, add a sliced onion to a quart of milk in the double boiler and heat to the boiling point. Thicken with a tablespoon- ful flour blended with a tablespoonful butter, cook until creamy, add a little of the hot stock in which the corn has cooked, then stir in with the corn. Cook ten minutes, strain through the puree sieve, pressing through as much of the corn and onion as will go. Add a tablespoonful cream or butter and a cupful half-inch cubes toasted bread and serve as hot as possible. SOUP STOCK. — In making stock fresh, lean and juicy meats, prefer- ably beef, with a little veal and ham, produce the best results. Cracked bones, especially the marrow and gristle, should be used, as they furnish the richness and body necessary to solidify the stock into jelly when cold. Meat alone gives simply a broth like beef tea. The proportions of meat and bone should be about equal in weight and a quart of cold fresh water is allowed to every pound of meat and bone. In most families where roasts of beef, steaks and poultry are freely used there is usually material enough to keep the stock pot supplied without pur- chasing meat especially for it. When fresh meat is bought for stock select a piece from the shin of beef or lower part of the round and have the butcher crack the bone. Wipe the meat with a cloth wrung out of cold water, then cut the meat in small pieces. Wash the bones to remove any small bits that may adhere. Put the bones in a kettle and pack the meat about them. This may be all beef or beef and veal in equal proportions, or simply beef and veal knuckle bone and a ham bone chopped in pieces. Now pour in the cold water and bring very slowly to the boiling point. If you are going to make a clear soup, like consomme, skim carefully as soon as the scum gathers. Do this three times, adding a quarter glass of cold water each time to bring the scum to the surface. If you are not particular about the clearness of the soup it is not necessary to skim more than once, as the scum is but the albumen and juices of the meat which have been drawn out and mixed with the cold water. The next step is to add the seasonings, which may be used in these proportions: — For every quart water allow an even teaspoonful salt, a tablespoonful each chopped celery, onion, carrot, turnip and parsnip, a few chives, four sprigs parsley, two peppercorns and two cloves, a, bay leaf and a teaspoonful mixed herbs. One of the little spice bags that come with herbs all properly pT0 (10 SOUPS portioned is best, but failing that you can make your own combination of sweet ba.eil thyme and summer savory tied in a little cheesecloth bag. Now push back on the range, simmer gently for five hours until the meat is in rags, strain carefully through a cloth or fine sieve. While cooling set the jar in a cool place (not the ice box) and leave uncovered. It keeps better to cool quickly. When quite cold it may be put in the ice box. If you are going to use it at once the fat may be removed when cold, but if it is to be kept several days the fat, by ex- cluding the air, helps to preserve the stock. BOUILLON. — Bouillon proper is always beef broth prepared from boiled beef with vegetables to season. As neither meat nor vegetables are boiled longer than necessary to cook them, an extra allowance of bone and sinew is added in order to get out as much gelatine as possible. To make bouillon for serving eight persons allow five pounds good fresh beef from the middle of the leg, two pounds bone (have the ■butcher break them), two quarts and a half cold water, a heaping tea- spoonful salt, a small bunch kitchen herbs or a spice bag, two cloves, two peppercorns, one onion, one stick celery, or a teaspoonful celery salt, one small carrot and a half turnip. Lay the bones in the pot first. Wipe the meat, remove all fat and cut in small pieces. Lay on the bones, cover with cold water, add the salt and place on the range where it will come slowly to a boil. As soon as the scum rises, remove, and, if the liquor boils too fast, pour in a quarter cup cold water to check the boiling and make the scum rise. Repeat twice. Now add the sea- soning herbs and sliced vegetables and simmer gently, not boil, for three or four hours. Remove vegetables and herbs before they cook to rags, leaving the meat only in the kettle until the end of the process. During the cooking, the meat should boil down to but three and one- half pints. Strain, pour into a perfectly clean vessel and, when cold, remove the fat. When ready to serve heat and pour in cups. LOBSTER BISQUE OR PUREE.— Cover the shell and claws of a lobster with a quart of cold water to make a foundation for the soup. Heat a tablespoonful butter in chafing dish blazer or a saucepan; stir in a tablespoonful flour and cook until it is bubbly. Add a cupful of the strained liquor obtained from cooking shell and claws and stir until smooth and thickened. Add a cupful lobster pickings from the shell, with salt and pepper to taste, and simmer about five minutes. Add a cupful warm milk, boil up once and serve. A little lemon juice may be added at the last moment if desired. This makes a pint, just enough to serve two persons. PUREES OR THICK SOUPS.— Purees are among the most nour- ishing of soups. They may be made of flesh, fish, game, fowl, vege- tables or fruits. The general plan of making these soups is the same, so that if the cook knows how to make a good asparagus or pea soup SOUPS 11 she can easily manage other vegetable soups, each taking a different name, according to materials. One made of carrots is known as carrot puree or Crecy. The use of potatoes makes it a Palbmentier, or with fresh green peas a St. Germain. Purees made of shell fish are known as bisques. To any of these soups the clear soup stock may be used mixed with a puree of cooked and strained fish, flesh, fowl or vegetable, with or without the addition of milk. Purees are usually served with croutons of toasted bread or souffle balls. CARROT PUREE OR POTAGE A LA CRECY.— Take four large red carrots, two potatoes, two onions and two sticks celery. Cut up and fry brown in beef drippings. Then put all into a saucepan with a quart of hot water; cook until the vegetables are quite soft and press through a puree sieve. Return to the fire; add two cloves, a tablespoon- ful of butter; two tablespoonfuls finely minced parsley, with a little sugar, salt and pepper to season. Have ready a pint of milk heated and thick- ened with a teaspoonful cornstarch or tablespoonful flour, add to the soup, bring to a boil and serve with croutons or souffle balls. FRUIT PUREES. — These are usually served cold in small glass bowls or bouillon cups. Stew the fruit, berries, apples, prunes, peaches, cherries — ^what you will — in water until tender, using as much water as you have fruit. Press through a puree sieve, then thicken with corn- starch or arrowroot, allowing a level tablespoonful to each pint strained juice and pulp. Sweeten to taste, cook until clear and, at the last, add a tablespoonful lemon juice or wine. If tapioca or sago is used for the thickening it will require longer cooking than the corn- starch. CODFISH BALLS. AKE a cup and a half of raw salt codfish and pick up. Peel and cut into small pieces three cups of raw potatoes. Put potatoes and fish in a stewpan, cover with boiling water and cook until potatoes are done. Pour off the water, stand on back of stove five minutes to dry and steam, then mash and beat until fish and potatoes are fine and light. Add butter the size of an egg, one egg unbeaten, pepper and more salt, if necessary. Beat altogether until as "light as feathers," then shape in a tablespoon without much smoothing. Have ready a kettle of boiling fat, drop the balls in not more than four or five at a time, and fry about a minute. It is easier to use a wire basket for the frying. Drain on kitchen paper, and serve with gherkins or sliced green tomato pickles. Somewhat similar are the codfish puffets. Mix in the same way as the balls, but instead of one egg use the stifHy whipped whites of two when mixing. Shape the fish mixture into round biscuits like cakes and flour both sides. Have ready some crisp slices of fat salt pork and the drip- pings. Keep the pork hot while the pufifets are quickly browned in the hot dripping. Drain on paper, arrange on a hot platter with a slice of the crisped pork under each pufifet and a tiny pickle on top. SALT MACKEREL.— To bake salt mackerel, soak in cold water over night, the split side down. Cut off fins and tail. In the morning wash and put in a shallow baking tin, split side up. Pour three gills of milk over it and put in a moderate oven. Cook twenty minutes. Mix together a tablespoonful each butter and flour, season with pepper and stir smooth with two tablespoonfuls hot milk. Add to the milk in the pan. Cook ten minutes longer, slide the fish on to a hot platter and pour the sauce around it. If preferred, the mackerel may be baked in a tomato sauce instead of the milk. To broil, soak over night, wash and wipe dry. Broil over a clear fire 12 FISH 18 ten or twelve minutes, putting the split side to the fire first. Seaso'm ■with butter and lemon juice and serve hot with baked or creamed potatoes. BAKED FISH. — To bake these whole, clean thoroughly, drawing the intestines out at the gills, but do not split. Make a dressing from one cup of bread or cracker crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter and a seasoning of salt, pepper, lemon juice, parsley, onion, pickles or celery, to suit. There are no hard and fast rules about a dressing. Use what you have on hand and what the family likes. Fill the fish with this, then skewer or tie, to hold in place. Every housekeeper should have a special pan for baking fish and an iron sheet with rings at the ends for handles, just the size to slip into the dripping pan. Failing this, put a broad strip of cheesecloth across the pan before laying in the fish. This will enable you to lift it out, when done, without breaking. As fish bake through more evenly if placed upright in the pan instead of on the side, they hold in place better if skewered into the shape of the letter S. To do this it is necessary to leave the head on, then pass a threaded needle through it, then through the middle of the body, and lastly the tail, draw tight, then fasten the ends. Put two or three thin slices of fat salt pork under the fish, cut gashes in the fish two inches apart on each side, fill these with tiny strips of fat salt pork, or, better still, brush the whole fish with olive oil, then dust with salt, pepper and flour. Put into a hot oven without water, protecting the tail with a piece of oiled paper. As soon as the flour brown.s lightly begin basting and continue doing this at ten minute intervals. The oven should be hot and fifteen minutes should be al- lowed to the pound in baking. When done, lift carefully on to a hot platter, draw out the strings or skewer, remove the pieces of pork, garnish with slices of lemon and minced parsley, and serve with Hol- landaise or sauce tartare. FILET DE BASS. — ^While this delectable fish tidbit usually appears under the name of "filet de sole," it is oftener than not the less expensive but almost as good bass. Wash and wipe the filets dry with a clean towel, trimming the fins close to the filet with a pair of scissors. Dust with salt, and lay in a covered dish with a minced onion, the juice of a half lemon and a tablespoonful finely cut parsley and thyme. Let stand half an hour. Twenty minutes before serving wipe dry again, dust lightly with flour, dip in well beaten egg, then roll in fine bread crumbs. When all are prepared, fry in boiling hot lard until a delicate brown on both sides. Arrange on a hot dish and serve with parsley arid lemon or sauce tartare. German way of Cooking Black Bass. — For two pounds of bass cut in filets, allow a quart sweet brown beer, a teaspoonful butter, a small onion sliced, six allspice, a bay leaf and a piece of honey cake, two inches square, grated. Put beer and fish in the fish boiler and add salt, peppei; 14 PISH and the allspice. Add onion, butter and bay leaf; cook fifteen minutes, add crumbed honey cake; cook fifteen minutes longer and serve. WHITE MOUNTAIN MACKEREL.— Mackerel as usually cooked is a dry fish, but prepared in this way is moist and delicate. Wash the , fish and bake without any water in the pan, excepting that used for basting. When nearly done, pour thick cream over the fish and return to the oven. Scald a cup of milk and thicken with a half teaspoonful flour rubbed with a teaspoonful butter. Pour over the fish and serve. STUFFED SMELTS.— Select good sized fresh smelts, clean and wipe dry. Remove the insides without splitting the stomach open. Stuff with a forcemeat the same as for the large baked fish, using a stiff paper cone to put the stuffing in; or stuff with shredded fish, such as haddock or bass, mixed with white of egg, a little cream, salt and nutmeg. Place in a well buttered pan and moisten with melted butter or oil; add chopped parsley and white wine. Bake in a very hot oven for ten minutes and serve with Hollandaise sauce. FRIED SMELTS. — Clean the smelts, wipe dry, dredge with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then fry quickly to a light golden brown in olive oil or salt pork drippings. Arrange "fish bone" pattern on a hot' platter, garnish with slices of lemon and parsley and serve with sauce tartare. SHAD ROE. — When the roe comes from the market parboil in salted -water, to which a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar has been added. Then put in the ice box until needed. This preliminary treat- ment not only prevents its spoiling, but lessens its tendency to "pop" and splutter while broiling or frying. To broil, brush over with melted butter or olive oil, then broil; or, split lengthwise, dust with flour or sifted bread crumbs, lay into beaten egg and crumbs again, and fry to a golden brown in hot pork fat, olive oil or butter. Shad Roe Croquettes. — For croquettes, after they have been boiled ,and allowed to get thoroughly cold, take off the skins and break the tiny eggs apart with a fork. Have ready a rich cream sauce, made from two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, two tablespoon- fuls of milk and one of cream. Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice. Add the prepared roes and let the whole mixture boil up a moment. Stir in a beaten egg and turn into a shallow dish to cool. When perfectly cold form into oval balls about the size of a walnut. Egg and crumb and fry in smoking hot fat to a delicate brown. Drain on soft paper and serve with cucumber or sauce tartare. PLANKED SHAD. — Use for this purpose a plank of some hard ,wood — ash, hickory, cedar, oak or cherry — cut in dimensions to fit the oven. If you have no family heirloom of this kind, charred and sea- .spned, you can buy one in any of the housefurnishing stores. These are FISH 15 fitted out with steel rods or bars to hold the fish in place. Heat the board very hot, turning over and around so that all parts will be uni- formly warmed. Split the fish down the back, lay it skin side next the plank and fasten in place. If you have no patent contrivance, large headed tacks will answer. Brush the fish over with olive oil or melted butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. If you have a gas stove, cook under the flame; otherwise in the oven, unless you are so fortunate as to have an open fireplace. Keep hot a mixture of melted butter, lemon juice and- cayenne, and with this baste the fish frequently until the sur- face is brown and the fish firm and flaky. About twenty-five minutes in a very hot oven will be required. When ready to serve place the fish, plank and all, on a large platter or japanned tray, take out the tacks or other fastenings, garnish with cress or parsley and lemon and serve as quickly as possible with any fish sauce preferred. Squeeze a little lemon over the fish. The plank should never be washed, but rubbed with a dry cloth. SALMON CROQUETTES.— Free a pound and a half of salmon, fresh or canned, from skin and bone and chop fine. Season with the juice of a half lemon, a tablespoonful chopped parsley, a teaspoonful salt and a dash of paprika. Mix well. Put two cups of milk on to boil. Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls butter and three of flour. When melted and bubbly, add the hot milk and stir until smooth and thick. Add the salmon, stir until hot, then turn out on a dish to cool. When quite cold and firm, form into croquettes, roll in fine crumbs, then in egg and again in crumbs. Fry in deep, boiling fat and serve very hot with a garnish of lemon and parsley. If these are served for the fish course, accompany them with potatoes persillade. BAKED HADDOCK. — Haddock, which is in season all the year, may be boiled, fried, made into chowder or baked. In baking it can be left whole and stuffed, or, more economically, have head and back- bone removed to make into fish stock for sauce or soup, then the filets stuffed and baked. To do this cut off the head, which hardens in the baking, then with a sharp knife make an incision along the backbone the entire length of the fish. Draw the fish away from the bone on each side, cutting at right angles with the bone. Cover bones and head with cold water and let them cook while the fish is baking. For the two long strips of flesh left after boning and beheading make a stuffing com- posed of one cup bread or cracker crumbs, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, a teaspoonful each chopped parsley and onion, a teaspoonful chopped pickles or a tablespoonful chopped celery and leaves, one beaten egg, or simply the white of an egg, a saltspoonful salt and pepper and I'e'mon juice to season. Add water to moisten, then spread on one- half of each slice of fish and fold the other half over it. Put one on top of the other, skewer together, sprinkle with buttered bread crumbs, lay in a buttered pan with a strip of greased cheesecloth laid under, not only to keep the fish from sticking but to assist in lifting from the pan 16 SHELL FISH to the platter when ready to serve. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes and put on dish with a sauce poured around it. To make the sauce melt in a saucepan three tablespoonfuls butter, add to it three table- spoonfuls flour, and when bubbly stir into the mixture a scant pint of the fish stock strained from the bones. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. CODFISH WITH WALNUTS.— Soak one pound codfish over night, then pick apart in as large flakes as possible. . Fry a pounded clove of garlic in a tablespoonful of lard or together with an onion cut fine. Add the fish and fry a light brown. Have in readiness four slices of bread soaked in cold water until soft and then the moisture squeezed out. Add to the fish, together with a half cup of walnuts chopped fine. Stir well, add cream, or even water, to moisten; cook five minutes and serve. BROILED SMELTS.— Split large smelts down the back, remove the backbones, rub with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Broil in a double broiler two minutes on a side, arrange on a hot dish and gar- nish with fried parsley. Serve with sauce Bernaise. CLAM FRITTERS. — The secret of success in cooking clams is not to overdo them. Long cooking toughens. Simply cook until the edges curl. To make fritters, which are excellent for breakfast, supper or luncheon, steam the clams until their shells begin to open, then re- move and chop, saving the clam juice. For a family of four, twenty- five clams will be sufficient for a meal. Having chopped the clams fine, put into a mixing bowl and sift over them two scant cups pastry flour. Beat three eggs, whites and yolks separately. Add to the beaten yolks a cupful of clam juice that has been strained through a cheesecloth and a quarter teaspoonful soda dissolved in a teaspoonful hot water. Stir well, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites, adding a trifle more flour if the batter seems too thin. Have ready a kettle of bubbling hot fat, drop in the batter by the teaspoonful. fry a deep golden brown on both sides and serve with a garnish of sliced lemon, Graham muffins or popovers. STEAMED "LITTLE NECKS."— Scrub the clams thoroughly and arrange in a steamer, standing over a kettle of boiling water. Let the water continue to boil rapidly for fifteen or twenty minutes until the clams open. Lift out the clams, saving the liquor that has filled the shells, and strain it through a piece of cheesecloth. Pull off the thin skin around the edge of the clams, and with the fish shears snip off the black end. Reheat the liquor, but do not allow it to boil. When ready to serve pour into as many small cups as you have individuals to serve. Add to each a bit of butter and a dusting of paprika or white pepper. Stand the cup in the centre of a large soup plate and range the clams around it, five or six to each plate. Garnish with a little parsley SHELL FISH 17 and lemon. With an oyster fork the clams may then be removed from the shells, dipped in the liquor and eaten with brown bread and butter sandwiches. The clams and liquor must be very hot. CLAM MOUSSE. — ^To make a quart of the mousse you will require three or four dozen clams, according to size. Put them into a kettle with about a pint of cold water and cook until the shells open. Remove the clams, strain the liquor through a cloth and measure. To two and two- third cupfuls clam juice allow one and one-third cupfuls whipped cream; put the clam liJ^uor in a freezer, season with celery salt to taste, and freeze to a mushlike consistency; stir in the whipped cream, freeze five minutes longer, then serve or pack in ice and salt until needed. SCALLOPED CLAMS. — Chop twenty-five clams fine and season with cayenne and a trifle of salt. Cook together a tablespoonful each butter and flour until "bubbly," and a cupful liquid, half milk and half clam juice, with a tiny pinch of soda, and stir until smooth and creamy. Add the chopped clams with a beaten egg. Have ready large clam or scalloped shells, butter on the inside and fill with the clam mixture, smoothing over with a silver knife blade. Arrange on a baking dish and bake about six minutes, or until well browned. Garnish with pars- ley and pass sliced lemons with them. BUTTERED CRABS.— Crabs should always be boiled alive, being plunged into cold water. As the water warms add a handful or two of salt, then cook from twenty to twenty-five minutes until bright red in color. If thrown at once into boiling water they are apt to throw off their claws with a sudden jerk, which allows the water to soak into the flesh. As the scum rises after putting in the salt skim carefully. Crabs are usually sold ready boiled, which simplifies the matter for the cook. In selecting them choose those that are firm and stiff and will not rattle. The eyes should be bright and claws and legs all on. The male crab has larger claws than the female, but less body. The female has also a broader tail. For buttered crabs take the meat from a large boiled crab, cut up small and mix with buttered crumbs and chopped parsley, having about a third of the bulk of the crab meat. Season with cayenne and pack back in the shell, spread with softened butter and a little lemon juice. Cover with a layer of bread or cracker crumbs, with more butter on top. Set in a slow oven and cook until brown. CRAB CROQUETTES.— Take the meat from the shells of two medium sized boiled crabs and cut rather fine. Put into a saucepan a tablespoonful and a half each of butter and flour, and when bubbly add gradually one cupful of milk. Stir until it boils, then cook gently for ten minutes. Add the crab meat, with salt and pepper to season, mix thoroughly and turn out on a plate to cool. When nearly cold make into little rolls about three inches long. When quite cold brush over with beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs and cook for two minutes in boil- ing fat. Drain a minute on soft paper, then serve. 18 SHELL FISH TERRAPIN. — ^To prepare the terrapin, allow them to move about a few moments in lukewarm water before plunging in boiling water. Boil until tender, the small ones from twenty to thirty minutes, the larger sometimes as long as an hour and a quarter. Take out on a tray and let them drain a little. To open, lay on their backs, heads from you, loosen and remove the shells, then take out the sand bags and gall, being care- ful not to break the latter. Do not use any of the meat on the head. That on the neck is good. Separate the meat and cut up very fine, with liver and entrails. Place all in a stewing kettle and barely cover with boiling water. Let cook half an hour. Then into the contents of this kettle mix the following dressing: — For two large or fifteen small terra- pins mash the yolks of three hard boiled eggs with one-half pound but- ter, one even tablespoonful salt, one teaspoonful Jersey pepper or a half saltspoonful cayenne. Add three scant tablespoonfuls browned flour, and three-fourths pint of cream. Stir all until smooth and well mixed, then add to the prepared terrapin; boil slowly for fifteen minutes, stir- ring frequently. If not sufficiently thick add a little more flour. If too thick reduce with boiling water. Serve very hot in a covered dish, accompanying it with hot baking powder biscuit and baked potatoes. BROILED LOBSTER,— Slit a boiled lobster lengthwise and pick out all the uneatable parts. Open it out flat, dust with salt and pepper, place a teaspoonful of butter on each half. Place the halves on a grid- iron and heat slowly over the fire. When done, set them in their shells on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and lemon and serve. OYSTER SHORTCAKE.— Make a good shortcake batter, using two cups pastry flour sifted, with- two teaspoonfuls baking powder and a half teaspoonful salt. Rub in a quarter cup butter, then add one egg beaten and mixed with a scant cup of milk. Spread on a buttered biscuit tin and bake in a quick oven. Split and spread with butter. For the filling, which should be ready by the time the cake is baked, scald a quart of oysters in their own liquor, skim, remove the oysters and put where they will keep hot. Strain the broth and return one cup to the saucepan. Mix together two tablespoonfuls butter and one of flour, stir into the boiling liquor and season with salt, pepper and celery salt. Let this just come to a boil, add three tablespoonfuls cream and the oysters. Stir a moment until well heated, fill into the shortcake and serve at once. LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG.— Pick out the meat of a lobster, cutting in any size desired, and measure two cupfuls lightly. Put into the chafing dish or a saucepan a rounded tablespoonful of butter, and when melted add the lobster meat and a half cupful of sherry and simmer ten minutes. Beat the yolks of three eggs thoroughly and add to them a tablespoonful of cream, so that they will not curdle. Add a scant half cupful of cream to the lobster and wine and cook until it bubbles. Season to taste with salt and pepper. As soon as it bubbles stir in SHELL FISH 19 the beaten yolks and serve as soon as it thickens, adding at the very last, if desired, a tablespoonful of brandy. This is a matter of personal taste. MUSSELS IN SHELLS.— These are delightful, though not half well enough known. Procure small mussels, as they are the most deli- cate; scrape the shells and wash through several waters to remove all the grit. Put into a saucepan and toss over a quick fire for a few moments until the meat comes easily from the shells. Squeeze all the liquor from them, strain into a saucepan, add the mussels and heat, not allow- ing them to cook. Add a little flour to thicken, with butter, nutmeg and pepper to season. They will not require any salt. Clean the mus- sel shells, cover with buttered crumbs, add a layer of the seasoned mus- sels, then more buttered crumbs. Moisten with a little of the liquor, place a few bits of butter on top with a fine sprinkling of dried parsley, and cook in a hot oven until a bright brown. PHILADELPHIA LOBSTER SALAD.— Boil one large or two medium sized lobsters and pick to pieces when cold. To make the dress- ing for them, beat the yolks of two raw eggs with a teaspoonful salt, a pinch of cayenne, a half tablespoonful powdered sugar and full tea- spoonful mustard wet with vinegar. Add gradually and at first very slowly one cup olive oil. When quite thick whip in the strained juice of one lemon. Beat five minutes before adding two tablespoonfuls vine- gar. Just before serving add to the dressing one-quarter cup sweet cream whipped to a froth; stir all well together and into the lobster. Line a salad bowl with the crisp heart leaves of lettuce, put in the sea- soned meat and cover with a little more whipped cream; if a little more acid i,s liked, four tablespoonfuls of vinegar may be used. CURRIED LOBSTER. — Take the meat from a medium sized boiled lobster and cut in small dice. Put into the chafing dish (for the lobster and the chafing dish go hand in hand) one rounded tablespoonful but- ter. When hot add a tablespoonful minced onion, and cook until it reaches the yellow stage, but not a moment longer. Mix one rounded tablespoonful flour with a teaspoonful (or more, according to taste) of curry powder and stir into the hot butter. Add a cup hot milk or thin cream and stir until it thickens and is smooth and creamy. Add two cups of the diced lobster meat, and as soon as thoroughly heated serve on delicately browned slices of toast or crisped crackers. OYSTER COCKTAILS.— For the cocktails use the small Blue Points or cherrystone oysters and allow five or a half dozen to each cover. Put on the ice until thoroughly chilled. For six covers, mix together three tablespoonfuls each vinegar, grated horseradish and to- mato catsup. Add six teaspoonfuls lemon juice and a few drops tabasco. Have this dressing also where it will be very cold. When ready to serve put the oysters in chilled glasses, pour the sauce over, set each 20 SHELL FISH glass on a service plate and serve with thin slices of buttered brown bread. COLD CRAB RAVIGOTE.— Allow to one pint fresh crab meat two large tomatoes boiled, one large green pepper, one red pepper and a tablespoonful of parsley, minced fine. Chop tomatoes and peppers, re- moving all the pepper seeds. Mix all the ingredients together with mayonnaise to make quite moist. Season with salt and paprika. Fill cleaned crab shells with the mixture, heaping it, and garnish with a little cut pickle and cut lemon. A couple of anchovies may be added to the top of each one, if preferred. This will make six shells. PICKLED OYSTERS.— For one hundred large oysters allow one pint white wine vinegar, one large red pepper broken into small bits, two dozen each whole cloves and black peppers and a dozen blades of mace. Put the oysters with their liquor into a porcelain lined kettle and bring slowly to the scalding point, but do not allow them to boil. Remove the oysters when at their plumpest, just before the edges begin to cockle, and set aside to cool. Strain the liquor, return to the kettle, add the vinegar and spices, bring to a good scald and pour over the oysters when almost cold. Cover the jar that contains the oysters and set in a cool place until the next day, and then put up in glass cans and set in a cool, dark place. LOBSTER FARCIE.— Take the lobster meat carefully from the shell, avoiding the stomach, which is usually called the "lady," and the intestines. Cream together a large tablespoonful and a half butter, a tablespoonful fliour and a pint of hot milk and stir constantly until the mixture thickens. Take from the fire, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, with salt, pepper or paprika to season. Mix thoroughly with the meat and return to the shell that has been carefully trimmed and cleaned. Brush over with white of egg, dust with fine crumbs and brown quickly. ROAST CHICKEN. — For roasting, select a dry picked chicken not . over a year and a half old. Remove all the pin feathers, singe thor- oughly, wash well inside and out, reject the tips of the wings, cut oflE the neck close to the body, draw up the skin and skewer to the back. Dust the inside of the chicken with salt, pepper and a little poultry seasoning. If stuffing is not desired — and this is a matter of taste, many good cooks preferring to dispense with it — rub the outside of the ■ fowl with olive oil, dust with salt and pepper, then powder thickly with flour. Truss the wings and legs close to the body, lay in a dripping pan with one or two thin slices of fat salt pork. Put the lowd breast down so that the juices may run into the breast. Put a half cup boil- ing water in the pan, then cover. If you have no covered roasting pan, improvise one from two baking pans or a stew kettle laid over the pan. Before laying the chicken in protect it with sheets of paraffine paper or strips of old muslin moistened with olive oil. Roast in this way for an hour and a quarter, then remove the covers and brown the chicken, basting often. CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE.— Cut in pieces as for a fricassee. Put into a frying pan two tablespoonfuls olive oil or butter, and when hot add a couple slices of onion, brown slightly, then add the pieces of chicken, part at a time. Brown lightly on both sides. As fast as done remove and add more. When all are browned arrange in a cas- serole together with a pint peeled button onions and a cupful carrots cut in narrow strips. Cover with a pint of stock, or, failing that, a pint of hot water in which a teaspoonful beef extract has been dissolved. Put on the cover of the casserole and bake until nearly tender. Have ready a dozen potato balls that have been browned in butter, and add to the contents of the casserole together with a half cup mushrooms, if desired. A little sherry is also deemed an improvement by some. Make a brown sauce by melting two tablespoonfuls butter in a saucepan, adding a tablespoonful and a half flour and browning lightly before putting in stock enough to make a smooth, creamy sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add to the contents of the casserole or serve separately in a sauceboat. Serve the chicken directly from the casserole. 21 22 POULTRY SMOTHERED CHICKEN^— Split the chicken down the back, sea- son with salt and pepper, and dredge well with flour both sides. Put into a bake pan a small cup stock and a quarter pound butter. Arrang* the giblets on the bottom and on them lay the chicken, breast down. Cover the pan closely and baste every ten or twelve minutes. Allow about fifteen minutes to the pound in roasting. When tender take out the chicken and lay on a hot platter. Mash the giblets, add a cup rick cream and serve with buttermilk or beaten biscuit. CHICKEN A LA BALTIMORE.— Prepare as for boiling; then cut into joints, wipe dry, season well with salt and pepper, dip into beaten egg; then roll in fine bread crumbs. Place in a well buttered pan, pour olive oil or melted butter over them and bake in a steady oven for twenty-five minutes. When tender remove to a hot dish. Make a good cream gravy to pour over the chicken, and serve with corn fritters and thin crisped slices of bacon. BROILED CHICKEN.— For broiling, the chickens must be small and young, as they are split down the back. Remove all the feathers and cut the oil bag out. Crush the breast bone with a blow from a mallet or rolling pin to flatten the bird evenly, or, if an expert at boning, remove the breast bone. Take out all the bits of lungs and dark matter on the inside of the chicken, as well as any superfluous fat. Wash in cold water and wipe and pat perfectly dry. Some cooks advise no washing at all, simply wiping with a damp cloth, but fastidious house- wives usually prefer to make sure the bird is quite clean. Season with salt and pepper and brush over with olive oil. It takes but a little and gives a far better flavor than butter, which is apt to burn. Place on a greased broiler over a clear coal fire or under the gas flame, having the inside of the chicken next to the flame. Do not have the fowl too near the flame, as it requires slow broiling, the inside longer than the outside. It will take about twenty minutes. Serve on a hot platter. Melt a tablespoonful of butter, add a little salt and pepper, a teaspoon- ful each lemon juice and minced parsley, and pour over the chicken. Garnish with cress and French fried potatoes and serve with golden brown waffles. If there is the slightest doubt about the age of the broiler, steam the chicken first by laying on a roasting rack placed over the dripping pan of boiling water. Invert a pan over it so as to keep in the steam, and set in a hot oven for twenty minutes. At the end of this time rub the broiler with oil, dredge with salt and pepper and proceed as directed above. CHICKEN EN CASSEROLE.— Take a chicken weighing about three pounds, cut into pieces, clean and lay in cold water for a half hour tO' draw out the blood. Drain, dry on a clean cloth and put into a stewpan with just enough milk and water in equal proportions to cover. It will take about a quart. Add a small onion with three cloves stuck in it. POULTRY 28 a few sprigs of parsley and a salt-spoonful each salt and pepper, and simmer gently until the pieces of chicken are tender. Take out and put where they will keep warm while you prepare the cream dressing. Put three tablespoonfuls each butter and flour in a saucepan and stir until blended, but not a particle browned. Add the broth and a cup of cream and stir until smooth and creamy. Add more salt if necessary, and, if you like, a suspicion of mace. This matter of seasoning depends always upon individual taste. A beaten egg may be added or not, as preferred, but the sauce must not be allowed to cook after the egg is added, lest it curdle. A half cup mushrooms is frequently added, but is not essential. Now arrange the pieces of chicken on a large hot platter. Put the two back pieces in the middle of the dish and arrange on them, one above the other, first the neck in two pieces, then the pinions and second joints. Rest the legs and wings against the side of the square and put the pieces of breast on top. Arrange the giblets and mush- rooms round the base with baking powder biscuits split in halves. Pour over the sauce and serve. CHICKEN CROQUETTES.— Have in readiness a cup and a half cold boiled chicken chopped rather fine. Put into a saucepan four tablespoonfuls butter, and when melted add a tablespoonful each fine chopped onion and parsley. Cook slightly, then add seven tablespoon- fuls flour and cook about ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add half a teaspoonful salt and pepper with ground mace and thyme to season. Then put in gradually one scant quart milk and chicken broth in equal proportions. When smooth and the consistency of rich cream gravy add the chicken and a hard boiled egg minced fine. Stir well, then set away to cool. When quite cold mould into croquettes about two and a half inches in length, dip in fine bread crumbs then in beaten egg, and lastly in crumbs again. Be sure \ the croquettes are thoroughly coated with egg and crumb. Fry in deep hot fat. Drain on soft paper, tuck a tiny spray of parsley in the end of each croquette and serve hot. CHICKEN CURRY. — Select a tender chicken and cut in pieces as for a fricassee. Cover with cold water, adding two small onions cut in pieces, a bay leaf, a bunch sweet herbs and a small stalk soup celery. Put in salt and pepper to season, then simmer slowly for three-quarters of an hour or until tender. Take the chicken up on a hot platter and thicken the broth with two tablespoonfuls butter stirred with two table- spoonfuls flour. Mix a heaping teaspoonful curry powder with a little of the broth and add to it the yolks of three beaten eggs and the juice of half a lemon. When the gravy is smooth and thickened stir in slowly the curry, egg yolks and lemon, but push the kettle back on the stove, so there will be no danger of the egg curdling. Pour the gravy over the chicken on the platter and arrange a border of rice around its edge. Serve very hot. 24 POULTRY STEWED DUCK.— This is the best way to cook a duck about whose age there is any question. Clean and joint as you would a chicken for fricassee. Put into a stewpan with several finely minced slices of cold ham or salt pork, add water to barely cover, and, as the scum arises, re- move. Stew gently about three-quarters of an hour, keeping the stew- pan covered. Then add a chopped onion, a little minced parsley, a tablespoonful catsup, and salt to season, and cook another half hour or until tender. Now mix, until smooth, two teaspoonfuls ground rice or a tablespoonful ordinary flour with a wineglass of port, stir into the gravy, color a rich brown with culinary bouquet, cook until smooth and thickened, turn into a deep dish, and serve very hot with green peas and cranberry jelly. GUINEA FOWLS.— Young fowls may be roasted or broiled. Older ones should be stewed according to the directions given for stewing ducks. To broil a young guinea fowl, wash thoroughly and split down the back. Wipe dry, flatten slightly, brush over with olive oil, dust with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and broil over a clear fire. Cook about fifteen minutes, then pour over, when in a dish, a rich brown gravy and garnish with mashed potatoes in little mounds; use watercress also. To roast them, fill with any dressing preferred. Rub over with olive oil and dust with salt and pepper. Sprinkle well with flour and put in a hot oven for an hour and a half, basting frequently. The giblets should be cooking meantime in water to cover. When the fowl is roasted season the gravy with onions and parsley. Add the finely minced giblets and thicken with browned flour or color with the culinary bouquet. Serve currant or grape jelly with guinea fowl. ROAST GOOSE. — A green goose from three to four months old is a great delicacy and is cooked like a game bird without stuffing. Sea- son inside and out with salt and pepper, put half a white onion inside to absorb any strong taste, dredge the outside with flour and roast in a hot oven for about an hour. Serve with boiled white onions and apple sauce. For an older goose, and even so it should not be more than a year old, you may use the time honored stuffing of potatoes and sage. Having thoroughly cleaned and washed the bird in soda water, re- move all the fat that can be reached from under the skin or inside. This may be saved and tried out to use later for goose grease. To make the stuffing boil for twenty minutes or half an hour a half dozen potatoes. Peel and mash, adding to them a tablespoonful salt, a tea- spoonful pepper, a teaspoonful powdered sage and two tablespoonfuls white onions minced aild fried yellow in butter. Mix these ingredients lightly together, then bind with two tablespoonfuls melted butter. Sea- son the goose on the inside with salt and pepper, stuff and truss. Dredge with salt and pepper and a liberal allowance of flour. Dry on a rack in a dripping pan and put into an extra hot oven to roast. As POULTRY 25 soon as it begins to color pour a pint of boiling water under the rack and begin basting the fowl. Baste and dredge with flour every fifteen minutes, and cook fully two hours. When well done and thoroughly browned put on a hot platter. Skim off the fat in the dripping pan, stir in a tablespoonful flour, then add a cupful hot water or stock to make the gravy. Strain and serve. A dish of tart apple sauce always goes with roast goose. Other good stuffings for roast ^oose are pota- toes and walnuts and prunes and rice. ROAST TURKEY.— A fine plump hen turkey should always be se- lected in preference to the male bird. While some advanced cooks now advise roasting turkey without any stuffing, most people cling to the dressing. This may be the dry Philadelphia stuffing, chestnut and mar- row, oysters, potato, celery, rice, almost any combination, in fact, that in- dividual preference dictates. For a chestnut stuffing peel fifty or sixty of these nuts, blanch by putting in boiling water until the skins are loosened, then remove them between thumb and forefinger. Now put the nuts in boiling water and cook until tender. Drain and chop very fine. Empty two marrow bones, cut the marrow in small pieces and mix with the nuts. Season with salt and pepper, moisten slightly with sweet cream and fill the turkey, taking care not to press the dressing in too closely. Should you prefer the dry Philadelphia stuffing, which is a marvel of lightness, prepare it this way: — Crumb fine two quarts stale bread. Season with two even tablespoonfuls salt, teaspoonful pepper, two table- spoonfuls each powdered summer savoy and minced parsley, and one of powdered sage. Rub a cupful of butter through the crumbs, then fill the cavity and sew up. Push the legs close to the body and draw the wings back so that the breast stands out plump and fair, an easy and inviting task for the carver. Rub the turkey all over with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Place on a rack in the dripping pan and set in a medium hot oven to roast. Baste often with boiling water in which a tablespoonful olive oil has been placed and after each basting dredge with flour. Fifteen minutes is usually allowed to the pound in roasting. Place the giblets in a sauce- pan over the fire, cover with cold water, add a bit of onion and a half teaspoonful salt and cook until tender. Place the turkey on a hot plat- ter, remove thread or skewers. Skim all fat from the gravy, thicken with flour and add enough of the giblet liquor to make the consistency required. Cook five minutes, strain and add the chopped giblets with culinary bouquet to color a rich brown. Accompany with cranberry sauce or jelly. ROAST DUCK. — Never try to roast an old duck. Be sure your bird is young and tender. If drawn by the butcher see that all the pipes in the vicinity of the crop are removed. Take out the leaves of extra fat, pick, singe and remove pinions, legs and oil bag. Wash the outside of the duck in hot water, rubbing vigorously to get out as much of the oil as possible. Rinse the inside in cold water, then truss after 26 POULTRY stuffing the craw and body with peeled and quartered apples. These are to absorb the strong taste of the duck and are not to be eaten, Dredge the duck with salt and pepper, rub over with olive oil, then dredge with flour and roast in a hot oven, basting frequently, for half an hour. Serve with orange or olive sauce, green peas and fried corn mush or hominy. Apple sauce or black currant jelly go well with roast duck. If the duck is specially fat and heavy treatment of this sort is efficacious in removing the grease. After trussing place the bird on a rack in a dripping pan, in a slow oven. When heated through take from the oven and prick the duck all aver lightly (just through the skin) with a fork. Press out all the oil possible with the back of a case knife. Drain the oil from the pan and return the bird to the oven. In fifteen minutes again drain the oil from the pan, then dredge the bird with flour, put a little hot water in the pan and bake until tender. The heat in the oven should be quickened as soon as the superfluous oil in the bird has been removed. Orange Sauce. — ^To make the orange sauce that goes so excellently with roast duck chop fine enough bacon to make a tablespoonful and fry with a tablespoonful chopped raw onion until the latter is lightly colored. Add the juice of an orange, a wineglass of port, with some of the drippings from the duck freed from grease. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot. An orange salad is another delightful accom- paniment to roast duck. A famous dish with bon vivants is roast duck carefully boned after roasting, then the bones with the thighs and other inferior portions put into a press that comes on purpose and their juices extracted and poured over the breast of the roasted fowl. In this way the consumer gets the quintessence of all that is excellent in the birds. DRESSINGS. — Stuffing for chickens, ducks, turkeys or geese may be made of bread with seasonings of celery and parsley, of bread and sau- sage, of bread and ham, oysters or chestnuts. A good bread dressing is made in this way: — Put into a saucepan four tablespoonfuls butter and a half teaspoonful onion juice. When the butter is melted add a cup and a quarter of fine bread crumbs, two teaspoon fuls each minced parsley and celery, a teaspoonful salt and pepper to season. Toss until well heated, then add just the least bit of hot water or milk to moisten slightly and with it one beaten yolk of egg. Fill the body and crop of the chicken, leaving plenty of room for the dressing to swell, then sew up. The sauce for the chicken may be of oyster flavoring, of the cooked and finely chopped giblets, of olives, mushrooms or .celery. To make the giblet sauce take the well cleaned gizzard, liver and heart, cover with cold water in a small saucepan and simmer until tender. Chop fine. When you have removed the fowl to a hot dish, pour the giblets with the broth in which they were cooked into the dripping pan with the drippings, thicken with a little browned flour, season with salt and pepper to taste and send to the table in a sauceboat. FRIED EGGS. — Olive oil or nice clear ham fat is the nicest frying medium for eggs. With butter they burn and blacken, and lard gives them an unpleasant taste. If not an adept at opening eggs, break first into a cup. Put three tablespoonfuls of oil in the frying pan and when well heated turn in the eggs, one or two at a time. With a limber knife fold the white over the yolk as it begins to set, and cook about' fifteen seconds. Turn over and cook the same length of time on the other side. Lift out carefully and place on a heated platter. Proceed in this way until all the eggs necessary are fried. The same amount of oil will cook eight or ten. Mix together a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper, season the eggs and serve. Be careful not to cook the eggs too long. The time specified is quite enough. Fried eggs with bacon are cooked in the same wa.y. Cook the bacon first and keep hot while the strained fat is put into a clean frying pan. Cook the eggs one or two at a time so that they can be lifted out without tearing each other. Season and serve arranged in the center of a platter, with the sliced bacon as a garnish, or put an egg on each slice of bacon. EGGS IN CASES. — Make some paper cases from stiff white paper, about three inches square. Butter them inside and half fill with sifted bread crumbs seasoned with cayenne, salt and chopped parsley. Dot with bits of butter, then break an egg into each case and cover with the sifted, seasoned crumbs until the cases are nearly full. Put into a hot oven or on a gridiron over a clear fire for three or four minutes, then serve very hot. HARD BOILED EGGS.— Where eggs have to be boiled hard, cook twenty minutes in water kept just below the boiling point. Drop into cold water before "shelling." In winter, when eggs are very cold, they should be warmed slightly before being plunged into boiling water. Either let them stand in the hot kitchen a few moments or pass through the steam from a boiling kettle. Twenty minutes' cooking will render the yolk of an egg so dry and mealy that it can easily be rubbed smooth for salads or other mixtures. 27 28 EGGS CURRIED EGGS.— Put into a chafing dish brazier or frying pan two tablespoonfuls butter and two small onions finely chopped. Cook until they brown, then stir in two dessertspoonfuls curry powder mixed with two tablespoonfuls flour. Stir until mixed, add one cup veal or chicken stock, beat again with a wire whisk until smooth and creamy, add two tablespoonfuls cream and six hard Ijoiled eggs sliced. When thoroughly heated through turn onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread and serve. Chinese eggs are much like the curried eggs, omitting the curry. For a half dozen hard boiled eggs sliced allow one tablespoonful butter, one of flour, one-half cup stock, one-half cup milk, one tablespoonful minced parsley, a half teaspoonful salt and pepper to season. Cook the sauce, add the eggs and when steaming hot serve. BAKED EGGS. — There are a number of different ways of baking eggs, among which the following are perhaps best: — Cover the bottom of a low stone china baking dish with a layer of fine crumbs. Break as many eggs, one by one, as there are people to be served and lay carefully in the buttered crumbs. Sift over them more crumbs, seasoned and buttered, and bake until the crumbs are brown. Or cut thin slices of bread, trim off the crusts, lay on a thickly buttered dish and cover with thin slices of cheese. Beat enough eggs to cover the bread, season with salt, pepper and, if liked, a little nutmeg, and pour over the bread. Bake in a moderate oven until the eggs are set, then serve very hot in the same dish. Again, slice a half dozen hard boiled eggs, put a layer in the buttered dish, sprinkle with grated cheese, add another layer of eggs, then more cheese, and so on until all are used. Turn enough white sauce over the dish to thoroughly moisten the crumbs, dust with buttered crumbs and bake ten minutes. Sometimes these are known as Sienna eggs. Another variation is to beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, salt lightly and spread roughly in the bottom of a buttered dish. Make nests for the yolks of the eggs some distance apart, carefully lay them in, dust with salt and pepper, and bake until the white is a golden brown. Baked eggs, known as "bonne femme," are made in this wise: — Slice two white or yellow onions and fry a delicate brown in butter or olive oil. Butter a dish, spread the onions over it, break over them the re- quired number of eggs, season with salt and pepper and bake in a hot oven. When done, sprinkle with fried bread crumbs and serve. DEVILLED EGGS. — Boil eggs twenty minutes and when cool s'hell. Cut into halves crosswise and remove the yolks without breaking the whites. Put the whites of the same egg together, that they need not get separated. The yolks may be put in the bowl. When all are cut, rub the yolks to a cream with melted butter, add a little made mustard or sauce from the chow chow bottle, a little chopped pickle or olives, and salt and paprika to season. Fill the mixture into the whites, put the halves together as they belong, and as if preparing them for the EGGS 29 picnic basket fasten together with a couple of little Japanese wooden toothpicks before wrapping in waxed paper. The picks serve as handles in eating. If they are to be put on the home table press the halves together and arrange on a bed of cress or lettuce. For a change, finely minced meat highly seasoned is often added to the yolks. The devilled mixture that will be left over makes a spicy filling for sand- wiches. Another way of using devilled eggs is to spread the yolk mixture left over on a shallow baking dish, place the eggs on it and cover with a thin cream sauce, veal or chicken gravy. Sprinkle with buttered crumbs and bake until the crumbs are a delicate brown. A grating of cheese may be incorporated with the crumbs, if desired. FRENCH OMELET.— Beat four eggs slightly, whites and yolks to- gether, just enough so that you can lift up a spoonful. Add four table- spoonfuls cream, a teaspoonful salt and a little paprika or white pepper. Put a teaspoonful butter in a clean, hot omelet pan and turn in the mixture. Then with a fork pick up the cooked egg from the center, allowing the uncooked to run under. Continue doing this until the whole is of a soft, creamy consistency. Place over a hotter portion of the fire to set and brown, then fold over and turn on to a hot platter. EGGS A LA CARACAS.— Shred two ounces smoked dried beef. Add one cup tomato, a quarter cup grated or potted cheese, a few drops onion juice and paprika to season. Melt in a chafing dish or saucepan two tablespoonfuls butter, add the mixture and toss lightly until heated. Add three or four eggs lightly beaten and cooked until creamy, stirring all the time. Or similarly take fine minced lean bacon and place in a frying pan with a little lard or butter and fry until done. Add a quarter cup tomato, and when thoroughly hot, four or five eggs lightly beaten and peppered to season. Toss and stir, scraping from the sides and bottom of the pan, then roll over into an omelet and serve. SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH GREEN PEPPERS.— Toast as many slices of bread as there persons to be served and lay on a dish to keep hot. Put a tablespoonful butter in the frying pan and while heating break as many eggs as are needed into a bowl. Six eggs is a good number for four or five people. Allow a tablespoonful cream or water to each egg. Milk is not good for an omelet or scramble. As soon as the butter is melted and begins to bubble, turn the eggs in, and as the whites begin to set lift and stir with a silver fork. Have ready two finely chopped sweet green peppers from which the seeds have been removed, and after the eggs begin to cook stir the peppers through the mixture. Cook a half moment, dish on the hot toast, garnish with a little watercress or parsley and serve at once. If the toast is preferred soft, dip each slice for a moment in hot milk before covering with the scramble. Plain scrambled eggs are cooked just the same as the French omelet, allowing a tablespoonful cream or water to each egg. 30 EGGS After cooking they are not folded or browned like the omelet, but simply poured into a hot dish or served on toast. PLAIN OMELET.— Beat the yolks of two eggs until lemon colored and thick. Add two tablespoonfuls milk, a saltspoonful salt and pepper to season. Beat the whites stiff and dry and cut and fold them into the yolks, but do not stir or beat. Have a clean smooth omelet pan well heated and buttered with teaspoonful butter. Rub the sides of the pan until every bit of the surface, has been greased. When hissing hot turn in the mixture and spread evenly. Lift at once to the side of the fire and cook carefully, slipping a limber knife blade under to keep it from burning in the middle. Put into the oven a moment to dry the top, then roll over toward the right; slip off on a hot platter and serve as quickly as possible. To vary the omelet, one tablespoonful chopped parsley added to the yolks when beating transforms it into a parsley omelet. A few tablespoonfuls grated corn makes a corn omelet; oysters parboiled and drained, cooked clams chopped fine or grated cheese spread over the omelet just before folding will give you an oyster, clam or cheese omelet. Other combinations that go well with an omelet are minced onion, cold boiled salmon, shredded; green peppers, minced fine; mushrooms, shrimps, minced ham or chicken, stewed tomatoes or raw sliced tomatoes. EGGS AND ARTICHOKES.— These are extremely popular now at fashionable luncheons, and are as good as they are attractive looking. Steam or cook in lightly salted water as many artichoke buttons as there are guests to serve. Place each on a round of bread a little larger in 'diameter than the artichoke, that has been delicately browned in butter, and over the artichoke drop a poached egg trimmed to just the size of the foundation. Pour over the egg a small quantity of sauce Hollandaise or brown tarragon sauce, add a dash of paprika and serve hot. A variation is to use hard boiled eggs instead of poached ones. In this case cut hard boiled eggs in halves, place an artichoke button on each round of toasted bread, the half an egg, cut side downward. Garnish with parsley and serve with a good gravy. Hollandaise Sauce. — Rub to a cream a half cup of butter, then add the yolks of two eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addi- tion. Put in the juice of half a lemon, a saltspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika or cayenne and half a cup of boiling water. Set the bowl containing the mixture in a saucepan of boiling water and stir rapidly and constantly until it thickens like boiled custard. Take im- mediately from the fire. Tarragon vinegar may be used in place of the lemon juice, with the addition of a few tarragon leaves blanched and cut up small. LYONNAISE EGGS.— Put into a frying pan or the chafing dish blazer two tablespoonfuls butter or olive oil. When hot add two table- EGGS 81 spoonfuls minced onion and one tablespoonful parsley and fry until the onion is light yellow. Add a tablespoonful flour and one cup milk or good broth. When smooth and creamy add four hard boiled eggs, sliced, and serve as soon as heated through. A change in serving is to simply chop the whites of the eggs and add to the sauce, boil up once and garnish with the yolks of the eggs. BOILED EGGS.— The best way to boil eggs is not to boil them at all. Put them in a pan, cover with boiling water, put on a lid and push back on the range where the water will keep hot, but not boil, for ten minutes. The white should be of a jellylike consistency and the yolk soft but not "runny." Cooked in this way the whites will be as digesti- ble as the yolks. They should be served at once, as they harden by being kept in the hot shell. If the shell of an egg is cracked before boiling, prick several small holes in the thickest part of the egg to prevent the contents ozing out while cooking. SPANISH OMELET. — For this take six eggs, one medium sized •tomato cut fine or its equivalent in canned tomatoes, one small onion, three tablespoonfuls milk, a dash of red pepper, five mushrooms, a quar- ter pound bacon minced and fried brown and a quarter teaspoonful salt. Having browned the bacon, add to it the tomato, onion and mushrooms chopped fine and cook fifteen minutes. Break the eggs in a bowl with- out separating, and beat vigorously. Add to them the salt and pepper. Put a tablespoonful butter in the omelet pan and, when melted and the sides of the pan are thoroughly greased, pour in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until well set. Now quickly pour the mixture from the other frying pan over the omelet, fold over once and turn out into the center of a hot platter. If any sauce is left over, pour around the omelet and serve at once. BRAIZED BEEF. AKE a piece of beef from the rump having one side covered with fat. Remove the bone, season the meat with a tablespoonful salt and a teaspoonful pepper; roll up and tie firmly with string enough to keep in shape. Saw the bone into small pieces, lay in a broad-bottomed saucepan with two ounces each larding pork and raw ham, two onions and one carrot sliced. Add a bouquet of herbs, lay the meat on top and put in two quarts stock or broth. Cover with buttered paper, adjust the lid, push to the side of the stove and simmer about three hours. Take out the meat, lay in a roasting pan with some of the broth and roast thirty minutes, basting frequently. Strain the rest of the broth clear from fat and reduce by boiling, uncovered, until it becqmes a half glaze. Take up the meat and lay on a hot dish, add the glaze to the gravy remaining in the pan, thicken slightly with a table spoonful^ each butter and flour cooked together, then add the juice of one lemon and a teaspoonful sugar. Pour a little of the sauce over the meat and serve the rest in a sauce bowl. NOISETTES OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF.— Cut from the end of a tenderloin of beef slices about five-eighths of an inch thick. Flatten down to about three-eighths of an inch and trim round. Salt on both sides, pepper, and place over the fire in a hot saucepan containing a tablespoonful each of olive oil and butter. Cook rapidly seven minutes arrange on small pieces of toast that have also been fried in oil, pour a little gravy over them and serve very hot. A mushroom puree may be substituted for the gravy. BULLOCK'S HEART.— Put the heart in cold water, wash well and leave for an hour to draw out the blood. Take out, dry on a cloth, cut in halves, rub with flour, and fry in drippings or butter in the frying 32 MEATS 3S pan until a light brown. Transfer to a saucepan, with two or three onions sliced and fried in the same butter; add a sprig of thyme or a spice bag, and salt and pepper to season, then pour in sufficient hot water or stock to cover. Place on the fire and simmer gently for three hours. Remove, skim the fat from the broth, cook uncovered until reduced somewhat, thicken slightly with flour or cornstarch stirred smooth in a little cold water and put in a little claret and a teaspoonful of culinary bouquet. Place the heart again in the pan, reheat, place on a hot dish, pour the gravy about it and serve very hot, with baked potatoes. The heart is also nice stuffed and roasted. Soak as before in warm water for half an hour, wipe dry, fill with a forcemeat well sea- soned, then roast, basting frequently. It will take about two hours. Serve with a rich gravy or sauce piquant. ROAST BEEF.— In buying a roast, ribs, the back of the rump or the second cut of the sirloiii are best for those who like their meat rare. Cross ribs are selected by those who like their meat well done. The time allowed for roasting a large piece of meat is usually twelve minutes for every pound and one minute for the pan. A smaller piece of meat does not require nearly so much time in proportion. It is important to remember, however, the smaller the cut the hotter should be the fire when first put into the oven. An intensely hot oven sears the ex- terior of the meat, the same as in boiling, and prevents the drying up of the riieat juices. After the surface is once seared the temperature of the oven should be reduced and the meat allowed to finish slowly with frequent basting. A roast of four pounds will be cooked just right in forty minutes if liked rare. For a very small roast it is a good plan to dredge it with flour, then brown in some of the suet either in the dripping pan or a frying pan set on top of the stove. As soon as' browned all over finish the roasting in the oven. In turning the meat never pierce with a fork, which allows the juices to escape and disturbs the tissues. Opinions differ as to the proper time for seasoning the roast. Some prefer to salt and pepper it when put into the oven. Others follow Queen Victoria's favorite way and have it seasoned when half done, while others leave the meat unseasoned for each one to season at the table. There is also a difference of opinion as to whether suet or water should be added to the pan when it goes into the oven. If you wish a fine brown do not add water until the meat is seared. After that a little boiling water or beef stock may be used in the basting. If too dry a little olive oil wiped over the roast when it first goes in makes it exceedingly juicy and toothsome. To tell when it is done test with the blade of a knife, pressing the upper surface. If it is springy you may know it is still rare. Lift carefully onto a hot platter, cover closely a few moments for the meat to "sweat" and allow the blood driven to the centre of the piece to return to the outside. This makes the first slice of the roast as tender and juicy as the middle. While the best gravy for the roast is the plate gravy that collects as soon as the meat is cut, many families still use old fashioned flour 3'4 MEATS gravy also. To make this, turn off any superfluous grease left in the pan after the meat is taken up and into the remainder stir a tablespocn- ful browned flour. Stir until smooth, then add boiling water or stock and stir until creamy. Season with salt and pepper and strain into a heated gravy boat. If the flour is not browned enough to make a rich gravy a tablespoonful of culinary bouquet will make it so. YORKSHIRE PUDDING.— Sift together a heaping pint flour, a teaspoonful salt and a teaspoonful and a half baking powder. Add a tablespoonful butter and rub fine in the flour. Beat two eggs until light and add to them a pint of milk. Stir into the flour and mix quickly into a thick batter. Pour a few spoonfuls of the beef drippings from the roast into hot gem pans or a long tin pan and turn in the batter. Bake in a medium oven, basting with the drippings from the meat. This is a more convenient way than the old method of baking the pudding in the pan under the meat, besides giving it more crust. Serve as a garnish to the roast, well seasoned with the plate gravy and drippings from the meat. BEEF A LA MODE. — Procure a nice piece of beef from the under part of the round weighing about six pounds. Wipe, trim ofif the edges, place in a deep earthen dish and cover with spiced vinegar made as follows: — Cook for five minutes in a small porcelain saucepan one cup vinegar, an onion chopped fine, a little salt, mustard, pepper, clove and allspice. Let the meat remain in the marinade several hours, stir- ring frequently. Chop fine an onion and a little parsley, add a teaspoon- ful salt and the same amount of pepper. Cut four ounces larding pork and the same amount raw ham into finger thick strips, and make with the carving steel or a pointed knife incisions an inch apart in the meat. Roll the pork and ham in the seasoning and then insert alternately into the incisions. Bind the beef into shape with a narrow strip of cotton cloth, then dredge with flour. Cut up two onions, half a carrot and a half turnip, fry in hot drippings or pork fat until brown, then place in stewpan. Brown the meat all over in the same drippings and place on top the vegetables. Add a half pint Rhine wine and white broth to reach half way up the meat and add a spice bag to flavor. These bags can be purchased at first class grocers,' and contain just the right admixture of seasoning herbs. Cover the meat with buttered paper, adjust the lid and simmer gently four hours, or until quite tender.I When done remove the strings and lay on a large warm dish. Free the broth from fat, and strain. Melt a tablespoonful butter in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful flour, stir and cook until frothy. Add one pint of the strained broth, cook five minutes and strain part of it over the meat. Garnish the beef with boiled potatoes, carrot balls and small glazed onions, passing the remainder of the gravy in a sauce boat. BROILED STEAK.— While porterhouse or sirloin steaks are the approved cuts for broiling, even a tougher steak can be broiled if MEATS 35 treated first in this way: — Put three tablespoonfuls olive oil and one tablespoonful vinegar in a large flat dish. Lay the steak on the mix- ture and let it rest for half an hour. Then turn and let it rest another half an hour in the same quantity oil and vinegar. Two inches is the approved thickness for a broiled steak. If broiled over coal the fire should be clear and bright. If under gas flame leave the oven door open that the air may circulate freely while the steak is broiling. A steak two inches thick will take about fifteen minutes to broil. To tell when meat has cooked sufficiently, press with the back of a knife. If it offers a slight resistance it is rare. If cooked to perfection the re- sistance will be a little stronger. Experience will soon teach this. Meantime have the seasoning for the steak prepared. Rub a hot tin plate with a clove of garlic, and place on it a half tablespoonful butter, a teaspoonful salt and a saltspoonful pepper or paprika. As soon as the steak comes from the broiler place on this and baste with melted, seasoned butter. Transfer to a heated platter and dress with tomato or mushroom sauce or simply butter and fine minced parsley. Two or three thin slices of lemon rolled in fine minced parsley make a pretty garnish for the ends of the steak. BEEF TONGUE. — In purchasing a tongue, salt or fresh, select one with smooth skin. A rough skinned one indicates age. A smoked tongue should be soaked over night in cold water before cooking. Wash well and trim off any extra fat. Draw the tip of the tongue around to meet the roots, and skewer in' place. Put into kettle with cold water to cover, and in case of a fresh tongue add two tablespoonfuls salt. To either smoked or fresh tongue now add a small red pepper, a few savory herbs, a spice bag, bay leaf, a stalk of celery, and parsley, carrot or whatever soup herbs you have at hand. Simmer gently, and as the water boils away add more, so as to keep the tongue covered until nearly done. When it can be easily pierced with a fork it is ready to take from the fire. If you want to use it right away, remove the skin, but if it is to be served cold let it cool without peeling in the water in which it was cooked. In serving cold tongue whole it should be glazed and trimmed with parsley. If sliced, cut evenly and arrange the slices in a circle around the platter, the slices overlapping. Pile watercress in the centre and serve with sauce tartare. Tongue is also served in aspic and garnished with sliced cucumbers. HARICOT OF OX TAIL. — Put one cup butter in a saucepan and when melted add two ox tails, divided into natural sections, and two onions chopped. Cook until the onions are a light brown. Add two table- spoonfuls flour and stir until frothy. Put in three pints of hot water.. When it reaches the boiling point, skim, then simmer an hour on the back of the stove. Add two carrots and two turnips, cut in rather large pieces, and cook an hour. Add potatoes cut in slices, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook twenty minutes. Take out the vegetables, pile in the centre of a dish with the tails around them, pour the gravy 86 MEATS over, and serve with boiled onions as a garnish. Ox tails are also delicious broiled. Joint and put into a stewpan with sweet herbs and stock to cover. Simmer gently two and a half hours, then take up and drain on a sieve. Roll in yolk of egg and finely grated crumbs and broil over a brisk fire, turning constantly. Arrange on a hot dish, gar- nish with fried parsley and serve with sauce tartare. CORN BEEF, ENGLISH FASHION.— For this the brisket is best and to get it just right it should be corned at home. For a ten pound brisket of flat ribs you will need a pickle made in this way: — Into three gallons of boiling water put three pounds of common salt, two pounds of rock salt, two ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre. Stir until well disssolved, without boiling again. Let this stand until morn- ing, then strain and put in the beef. Turn every day. The beef should stay in at least a day for every pound of meat, and for a tongue (for this is an excellent pickle for tongue), three weeks. When ready to cook remove the bones, drain and wipe. Cut into equal parts and place one on the other in such a way that the fat and lean mix well. Tie together and wrap in cheesecloth. Put into a large stewpan, cover with cold water and cook slowly, allowing twenty minutes to each pound, and a half hour extra. When tender, drain. Have ready an earthenware crock, put the beef in, opening the cloth so that it will lie smoothly. Arrange the fat and lean as you desire. Cover with a bf^ard half an inch thick, and place a weight on it. Set in a cool place until the next day. Take off weight and board, turn out on a large platter, garnish with parsley or cress and small radishes, and cut crosswise in small strips. HUNGARIAN GOULASH.— Cut about two pounds of flank steak into small squares and an onion into pieces, and cook both in a pan with a little butter a few moments, but not long enough to take much color. Place a layer of the meat in a flat bottomed kettle of good size. Over this put a layer of the onions, and so on until all the meat is used, and as many onions as desired. Add enough cold water to cover the upper layer of meat. Put over the fire and bring to a boil. Allow two cup- fuls of canned or sliced tomatoes to each quart of the meat and onion mixture, and when they have reached the boiling point (on no account before), pour the tomatoes over the mixture, but do not stir. Now push the kettle back on the stove where it will simply bubble on the side, not boil. Simmer two hours. Have ready peeled some small potatoes of uniform size, and put into the kettle, pushing the meat and onions gently to one side to make room for them. The contents of the kettle must not be stirred more than absolutely necessary. As soon as the potatoes are done, which will be in about twenty minutes, serve. MOCK DUCK. — Have a large cut of round steak at least two inches thick. Place on the meat board and spread with a forcemeat made from two cups bread crumbs, a half cup butter, a small onion. MEATS 37 chopped; a tablespoonful salt and pepper, and cloves to season. The Germans like a half cup seeded raisins added to this. Roll the meat about the filling and secure with strips of cotton cloth. Flour well all over, then brown in drippings or olive oil, turning from side to side until evenly browned all over. Now add to the stewpan or dripping pan, as you elect to cook your duck, some good broth or rice stock, flavoring it with a few slices of onion, a bay leaf and any other season- ings desired. Cook on the back of the stove or in the oven until the meat is tender. Take from the pan and place on a hot platter. Skim the fat from the surface of the sauce remaining in the pan, add a little flour to thicken and chili, vinegar or lemon juice to season. Strain over the meat and serve with a garnish of cooked spaghetti. TRIPE A LA LYONNAISE.— In whatever way tripe is to be. cooked, the preliminary treatment is the same. It comes to us from the butcher already boiled or pickled. It should then be thoroughly washed and soaked in salt and water, washed again, then put into water and simmered a short time until perfectly tender. When cold it may be prepared in any way desired. For cooking a la Lyonnaise, cut in long, fine strips about an inch in width. Put into a saucepan three table- spoonfuls olive oil, and when hot add two tablespoonfuls white onions cut in thin slices. Cook to a delicate golden color. Add the tripe. Cook slowly fifteen minutes, season with salt, pepper, a dash cayenne, a tablespoonful parsley and a tablespoonful tomato conserve. Serve with grated cheese. Both cheese and conserve can be purchased in the Italian quarter most reasonably. The conserve comes in little tin cans and keeps well after being opened. A spoonful is quite sufficient for ordinary seasoning. Tripe is also delicious served with bacon. Fry thin slices of bacon until crisp. Take from the pan and put where it will keep hot. Have the tripe cut in pieces ready for serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in flour or cornmeal and brown quickly in the hot fat. Serve with the bacon. IRISH STEW. — Use for this the ribs and neck of mutton, cut in pieces. Put in a frying pan with a little hot water at first, until the fat begins to try out, then brown in its own fat. Cut in dice some car- rots, turnips and potatoes, keeping the latter separate. Add the car- rots and turnips to the meat, together with a sliced onion, two stalks of celery, cut in small pieces, and a cup of canned tomato. Add boiling water to cover and cook gently about two hours or until tender. About twenty minutes before serving put in a pint of diced potato and two tablespoonfuls of minced parsley. When done add a little green pepper, cut in fine strips, thicken with flour diluted with cold water to make a thin paste, season with salt and pepper and serve with or without dumplings. The latter may be baked the same as biscuit or made in this way: — Sift together two cupfuls of flour, three level tea- spoonfuls of baking powder and a half a teaspoonful of salt. Rub in a tablespoonful of butter, using the tips of the fingers, then add seven- 38 MEATS eighths of a cup of milk, mixing quickly with a knife. Drop by table- spoonfuls in a perforated pie tin or buttered steamer, set over the stew, cover tightly and steam without uncovering for twelve minutes. BREAST OF LAMB STUFFED.— Have the butcher remove all the bones from a forequarter of lamb, or do it yourself, using a good sharp pointed knife and cutting along the bone under the meat until you can pull it out. Wipe carefully and stuff with a dressing of well seasoned bread crumbs. Roll tightly and secure with a string. Put a generous piece of butter or a couple tablespoonfuls of olive oil in a frying pan and when hot lay the lamb in it and turn until browned all over. Then transfer to a dripping pan with a half cupful boiling water. Dredge with flour and season well with salt and pepper, cover closely and bake slowly. Or, if you prefer, you can steam the rolled breast until partially done, then put into the oven to finish cooking and browning. SCOTCH STEW.— For this use three pounds lamb or mutton from the forequarter. Cut the lean meat in inch pieces, discarding skin and fat. It is the skin on the mutton that gives it the woolly taste so many object to. Put into a kettle, cover with three pints cold water, bring quickly to a boil and skim. Add a half cup barley that has been soaked in cold water over night and cook gently for an hour and a half. Put the bones into a second kettle, cover with cold water, heat slowly to the boiling point; skim and cook an hour and a half. Strain and add the stock to the meat. Fry five minutes in butter or beef drippings a quar- ter cup each of turnip and carrot cut in dice, and an onion thinly sliced. Add to the stew with salt and pepper to season, and cook until the vege- tables are tender. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth with a talilespoonful of butter, and just before serving throw in a tablespoonful of minced parsley. BREADED LAMB CHOPS.— French the chops by trimming off the strip of fat and skin on the long end of the bone. They should be thick and juicy. Wipe with a damp cloth. Have ready on a plate an egg beaten slightly and mixed with a tablespoonful of warm water, salt and pepper to season. On another plate have some fine dry sifted bread crumbs, also seasoned with salt and pepper and a tiny bit of fine minced parsley. Have in readiness also a kettle of smoking hot fat. Dip each chop in the egg, both sides, then in the crumbs, and two at a time plunge into the smoking fat. If more are put in at a time it cools the fat too much and the chops soak grease. Draw to the edge of the fire and cook from six to eight minutes. MOCK VENISON. — This is a favorite way of preparing mutton in the chafing dish. The loin is the portion utilized, making an excellent substitute for venison. For four loin chops you will require one leve4 tablespoonful of butter, one-quarter cup of port wine and a dessert- spoonful of currant jelly. Let the butter get very hot, brown, but not MEATS 89 burned. Trim the fat from the chops, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and put in the browned butter quickly. As soon as slightly browned add the wine and jelly, put on the cover of the dish and let simmer from six to ten minutes, according to the thickness of the chops. If the chops are cooked beyond the pink stage they become tough. As soon as taken up add as much more wine and two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs to the gravy remaining in the pan and serve with the chops. A relish of currant jelly accompanies this very good imitatioa of venison. FRICASSEE OF LAMB.— Cut up enough cold lamb to make one quart diced. Season with salt and pepper, put into a baking dish and pour over the meat a sauce made as follows: — Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and when hot add a tablespoonful of flour and cook until brown. Then add one scant pint of water and when it boils, up season with salt, pepper and a little onion juice and pour over the meat. Set in the oven and cook for twenty minutes, covered. To make the dumplings, sift together one pint of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. Repeat three times. Rub into the sifted mixture a half tables- spoonful of butter, and then wet with one small cup of milk. Roll out and cut into very small biscuit. Place on top the meat and bake twelve or fifteen minutes in a very hot oven. Serve at once. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.— Select a large leg of tender muttoa and have it sent two or three days before you wish to serve it. Wipe with a damp cloth and rub over with a mixture of spices, using a half teaspoonful each cloves, pepper, ginger, cinnamon and powdered mint. Rub thoroughly and hang the mutton in a cold place for a couple of days. When ready to cook put into a good sized dripping pan, add four sliced onions, a cup of seedless raisins and two quarts of hot cider. The cider must be sweet. Cover the mutton with oiled paper and then with another pan and put in a hot oven. As soon as the meat is browned reduce the heat and then cook slowly, basting frequently with the cider. When about half done add to the cider a teaspoonful of salt. When ready to serve put the mutton on a hot platter, arrange the raisins about it, boil the cider down quickly to a thick, rich sauce, strain and serve in a sauce boat. GRILLED BREAST OF MUTTON.— Put the meat into a sauce- pan of salted water and simmer until about half done. Take out, score, sprinkle with salt and pepper and brush over with yolk of egg. Cover with bread crumbs and finely minced fresh mint, or dry mint powdered, and broil over a clear fire until cooked through and a light brown. Serve with tomato sauce or a sauce made by cooking a pint of gravy with a minced onion and a tablespoonful minced pickles. Cook ten minutes,, thicken with a tablespoonful each flour and butter rubbed together, put into a hot gravy boat and serve. 40 MEATS ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.— The saddle of lamb or mutton is simply the loins cut off before the carcass is split open down the back. If a large saddle is used the tail is left on. If medium sized, it will roast in an hour and a half. If large, it will require two hours. Take the skin from the top of the fat and kidneys from the under side. Cut the suet on top in points and raise a little to make a decoration. Roll the flaps under and tie in a well rounded shape. It should first be exposed to intense heat until browned, then seasoned with salt and pepper, basted frequently with its own drippings and cooked rare. In carving, cut slices the length of the saddle and parallel to the backbone, then slip the knife under and separate from the ribs. After carving the top, turn and cut the tenderloin in the same way. Serve with red or black cur- rant jelly, and if desired a cucumber sauce made in this way: — Peel a couple of large cucumbers, slice and place in cold water, lightly salted. Peel and slice a medium sized white onion and put with the cucumber in a small stewpan, with gravy to cover. Simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, season with salt and pepper and add a tablespoonful lemon juice. Garnish the saddle with cucumbers and serve the sauce in a boat. HARICOT MUTTON.— Cut three pounds lamb or mutton into inch pieces, trimming off the fat. Season with salt and pepper. Put a table- spoonful butter or drippings in a saucepan over the fire and when hot add one finely sliced onion and a half clove of garlic. Cook two or three minutes, add the meat, toss for a few moments, cover and cook twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add a half cup boiling water and simmer gently until the meat is tender. Meantime melt two tablespoon- fuls butter in a saucepan, put in two tablespoonfuls flour and when blended add a quart of meat broth made from the bones, a bouquet of herbs and a half dozen small onions. Cook ten minutes, then add to the meat, cover and cook half an hour longer. When ready to serve remove the bouquet and every particle of fat, put the meat in the centre of a hot platter and dress with one pint each cooked string or lima beans and the same amount of carrot dice. Peas may also be added or sub- stituted for either vegetable. CROWN ROAST OF LAMB.— This roast, sometimes known as Philadelphia roast, consists of rib chops trimmed and skewered to- gether. Put into a small dripping pan, meat side down, season with salt and pepper and roast in a quick oven just long enough to brown prop- erly. Fill in the centre when serving with riced potato or green peas. Serve with mint sauce or mint jelly. To make the jelly, pour two cups of boiling water over a bunch of freshly bruised mint leaves, then sim- mer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes. Strain, and to a pint of liquid add one package of currant, lemon, or any of the patent jellies, or a half package of gelatine that has been soaked for twenty minutes in a little cold water reserved from the original amount measured out. Add sugar .to sweeten and currant or lemon juice to make a pleasing acid. Stir MEATS 41 the softened gelatine until dissolved, and set away to cool. As it begins to thicken put in two tablespoonfuls of capers. Mould in tiny individual cups or one large mould and garnish with tiny sprigs of mint. This is nice to serve with any form of roast lamb or mutton. BREAKFAST BACON.— The secret of cooking breakfast bacon so that it will be dry, crisp and a delicate light brown consists first in cut- ting it thin, then in having it ice cold when put into the frying pan if to be fried. The pan should be hot, yet not red hot, and care is necessary to keep the rashers cooking evenly; a slice of lean needs to be turned over on to the fatter part to keep it from getting too dry. In doing small quantities it is well to put a little bacon fat in the pan. Save what is left each day when frying and pour into a little jar to keep it. Shake the pan rapidly while the bacon is cooking and toss over to crisp into little rolls. While most people find frying the handiest way to cook bacon in small quantities, there is no better or easier way with a gas stove than to cook it in the oven. Cut the rashers with mathematical precision, and the bacon should be so chilled that it is very firm-and can be sliced wafer thin, and lay the slices in a sheet iron baking tin or spider, one slice overlapping the other so that each strip of lean rests on the fat of the rasher underneath. Put in the oven and leave until cooked. An appetizing addition to the dish of breakfast bacon is green peppers. Select firm green peppers and cut into rings, removing all the seeds. Soak for twenty minutes in salted ice water. Drain, pat dry on a clean cloth and fry in the pan in which the bacon has fried crisp. Keep the bacon hot meanwhile. When the peppers are tender heap them up in the centre of a small hot platter and arrange the slices of feacon around them. ROAST PIG. — Get a plump little pig, from three to four weeks old. Wash thoroughly in cold water, inside and out, taking special care to see that the eye sockets, ears and throat are perfectly clean. Rinse in cold water and wipe dry. Rub over the inside with salt, pepper and a little sifted sage. Make a dressing, using a quart fine bread crumbs, three tablespoonfuls melted butter, a large apple, chopped, and one small onion, a few sprigs parsley minced, salt and pepper to season and milk to moisten. Fill the body of the pig with this dressing, pressing full, then drawing the skin together with a coarse needle and thread. Roll the ears and legs in oiled paper, bending the fore feet under the body and the hind feet backward. Skewer in place. Put a corn cob or bit of hard wood between the jaws to keep them open. Put the pig in a dripping pan, rub the skin with olive oil or butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Place in a brisk oven. Baste for a time with hot water and melted butter or olive oil, then later with the drip- pings. The easiest way to do this is with a swab of white cloth tied to a skewer. When the pig seems tender, which will be in from two to two and a half hours, remove the oiled paper from the legs and ears and cook about fifteen minutes longer. Arrange on a large platter a bed 42 MEATS of watercress, or celery tips, lift the pig tenderly on it, remove the stick from the mouth, replacing it with a small rosy apple or a lemon, put a necklace of cranberries, popcorn or parsley about the neck, and serve with gravy and tart apple sauce. The stuffing may be varied by using mashed potato instead of the bread. Cold slaw, cranberry jelly, brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes or potato croquettes are all appropriate to serve with roast pig. PIGS' FEET. — These make a delicious dish for breakfast or as an entree. They usually come from the butcher's already boiled. Split the feet and make sure they have been properly cleaned. Season with salt and pepper, roll in olive oil, then in fine bread crumbs and broil over a clear fire, allowing four minutes to a side. Or dip in batter and fry in olive oil or hot butter. Serve with sauce piqUant or maitre d'hotel but- ter. They may also be boned by dropping in boiling water for four or five minutes, then drain, wipe, season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, dip in beaten egg and crumbs and fry in hot fat. PORK PIES. — Get two pounds lean pork trimmings and cut into inch pieces. Season vyith a teaspoonful and a half salt and a teaspoon- ful pepper. Place in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Add two onions, medium size, cover and cook gently until tender. Drain off the broth from the meat. Put into a frying pan a tablespoonful each butter and flour, and when bubbly add two cupfuls of the broth in which the meat was cooked. Season with a little lemon juice and cook until the sauce is smooth and thickened. Add the meat and set aside to cool. Make a good crust, using two cups flour and one cup lard, a teaspoon- ful salt and cold water to make into a paste. Butter small earthen bowls or pie plates, dust with flour, line with crust and fill with the meat, but no gravy. Cover with paste, leaving a hole in the centre for the escape of steam and bake in a medium hot oven. Keep the gravy hot. When the pies are baked put a small funnel in the hole in the centre of the crust and pour in as much as the pies will hold. Another way is to put the meat in bowls without any under crust, then cover with a crust and bake. SAUSAGE. — While sausage is not to be commended for a steady diet, good home made or pure commercial sausage is not an unwhole- some breakfast dish on a cool morning, while cooked over the camp or picnic fire it is hardly surpassed. Link sausages are nice covered with water and boiled a few moments, then grilled over the fire or browned in the oven. Another appetizing way is to pick the sausages apart, then cook in cream sauce, like dried beef. Sausage and onion make a good combina- tion. Allow a tablespoonful of chopped onion to a pound of sausage. Brown in a frying pan with the sausage and sprinkle over it when serv- ing. Fried apples or apple fritters are also excellent accompaniments to fried sausage. To bake sausage take a roll of the country sausage and MEATS 48 place in a dripping pan. Dust ligiitly with flour and make a wall of potato around it, peeling the potatoes, cutting them in half and standing the cut side against the sausage. Bake in a moderate oven until the potatoes are tender and brown and the sausage well done. Use the drippings from the sausage for a cream gravy to go with the sausage and potato. BROILED HAM.— Have the ham sliced rather thick. Freshen slightly by soaking in ice water over night or by parboiling it in enough water to cover. Wipe dry, place between the bars of a gridiron and brown slightly on both sides. Season with pepper and more salt if needed, and serve with orange or apple fritters. Fried eggs may also accompany it if desired. To make the fritters slice oranges or apples in thick slices, from which all peeling and cores have been removed. Make a fritter batter, allowing to one cup sifted flour a teaspoonful bak- ing powder and a pinch of salt, two beaten eggs, a quarter cup sugar (or not according to taste), and a half cup milk. Fry in hot ham fat or a kettle of deep lard, and as soon as brown drain on butcher's paper and dredge lightly with powdered sugar. BAKED HAM WITH CIDER SAUCE.— This is especially delight- ful for buffet luncheons or high teas. Select a ham weighing from seven to nine pounds, scrape the outside, then scrub with a clean brush and rinse well. Place in a good sized kettle, cover with cold water and set over the fire. When it reaches the boiling point skim thoroughly, then push back where it will simmer for a couple of hours. Take from the fire and let the meat remain in the liquor in which it was cooked until just lukewarm. Take out the ham and peel off the skin, which should come off easily. Place in a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven, basting frequently at first with hard cider sweetened with brown sugar and afterward with the drippings from the pan. When the ham is baked prepare a dressing of one cupful rolled bread crumbs or cracker dust, a teaspoonful dry mustard, two teaspoonfuls brown sugar, one beaten egg and cider to make a paste. Spread over the ham, dot with cloves and bake long enough to color a rich brown. To make the sauce put into a small saucepan over the fire a level table- spoonful each butter and flour, and when melted and frothy add a cup of highly seasoned stock. Cook ten minutes, then add a cup of cider, strain and serve. LIVERWURST. — Quite familiar is the old Southern dish of liver, wurst. Take six pigs' haslets (heart, liver, &c.), look over carefully, removing all imperfect parts. Put into a pot of water lightly salted and cook until tender. Chop fine. In another pot put about five pounds of fat pork. Boil until tender, take off the' rind, chop fine and add to the liver. Throw away the water in which the haslets were cooked, as it is not fit for food, but save the water in which the pork was cooked. Put the chopped mixture in the water with a dozen onions, chopped fine. 44 MEATS Cook until the onions are tender. Season with powdered sage, salt and pepper, and then sift in meal and cook until thick enough to fry. Pour into moulds and when cold slice and fry. SCRAPPLE. — Use for this the head of a young pig, with heart, liver, kidneys and all the lean trimmings. Do not use the fat pieces. Take from the head as much of the jaw bone as possible, with all the teeth, and cut off the gristly snout and ears. Clean thoroughly and put into a large saucepan with the heart, liver, kidneys and lean meat. Cover with cold water and boil until all the bones in the head fall apart. Strain off the liquor into another pot and set back on the stove to keep warm. Pick over the meat, removing all the bits of bone and gristle. Return the meat to the strained liquor and again place over the fire, seasoning with salt, black pepper and sage. Now stir into the liquor cornmeal and buckwheat in the proportion of two of cornmeal to one of buckwheat and cook until the entire mass is about the consistency of mush. Pour into deep pans and put in the cellar to cool. This is a cold weather dish, but is excellent in a northern camp for the summer. SALT PORK AND CREAM GRAVY.— This is just a plain coun- try dish, but one which almost every one likes. Slice salt pork thin and put in a frying pan with water to cover. Cook until the slices of pork look pinkish and the water has evaporated. Roll each slice in a little flour, shaking off all that is superfluous, and return to the spider. Fry until crispy brown on both sides, watching closely that they do not blacken. Take up the slices of pork on to a hot platter, then stir into the fat remaining a tablespoonful flour. Stir until well blended, then ■ pour in a cup of milk. Stir again until smooth and thickened, add a half cup cream or more milk, with pepper to season, and pour over the pork. This cream gravy is specially delicious with buckwheat cakes. ROAST SHOULDER OF PORK.— Have the bone removed and the space filled with a dressing of Sage and onion, or one similar to that used in the roast pig. Roll up and secure with a string. Place in a dripping pan. Rub salt, pepper and the grated rind of lemon over the scraped top and squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Bake with an even heat, basting frequently. The meat must be well done to be good. Serve apple sauce or prunes with this. The Swedes make a dressing for fresh pork roast of prunes and rice. Soak a quarter pound of prunes in cold water over night. Cover with boiling water and cook until nearly tender. Blanch one cup rice, add prune juice and water to makp three cups in all, add a teaspoonful salt and boil until the rice is tender. Add the prunes stoned and cut in pieces. A dozen chestnuts or butternuts may be added for variety. CALF'S BRAINS.— Wash the brains thoroughly, rejecting all the small membranes. Place in a quart of cold water to which a table- spoonful of vinegar has been added, soak for twenty minutes or half an MEATS 45 hour, then drain. Drop into boiling water and cook three minutes — no longer. Pour off the water- and replace with cold water. After this preliminary treatment they are ready for use in any way desired. Put on the ice until ready to cook. To bread them, cut each portion of brain in half, season with salt and pepper, dip in egg, then cracker crumbs and fry in butter or olive oil until browned on each side. Take up care- fully so as not to break them and serve with a tomato or brown butter sauce. Or brush over well with melted butter or oil, roll in seasoned bread crumbs, place each piece on a slice of bacon and bake in a hot oven for half an hour. Serve with sauce piquant. The blanched brains may also be cut in inch cubes, dipped in fritter batter and fried in hot, deep fat; be browned in butter and served on a bed of boiled spaghetti covered with tomato sauce and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese; or, cut in small pieces, put in scallop shells or ramekins, covered with tomato sauce, grated cheese and buttered crumbs and baked until slightly colored. ROAST SHOULDER OF VEAL.— Have the bones removed from the shoulder, then fill with a good forcemeat and sew up. Season the meat with a large tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper mixed, rubbing in thoroughly. Brush over with olive oil, lay in a roast- ing pan, place in a hot oven and roast, basting with olive oil and hot water until a light brown. If preferred, thin slices of larding pork may be put on top of the roast to furnish the necessary fat for the basting. When colored, add a cupful of boiling water to the pan, then continue to roast and baste until the meat is tender. This will take about two hours. It is a good, plan to invert a pan over the roast during the last hour to keep the steam in and the meat from becoming too dry. When ready to serve, take the roast on a hot platter, remove all fat from the gravy, thicken slightly with a tablespoonful of cornstarch or flour stirred smooth in a little cold water, cook a few moments, add culinary bouquet to color a rich brown, then strain and serve with the roast. VEAL POT PIE. — Take about three pounds lean veal from the shoulder or other inexpensive cut that has but little fat about it. Dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Put a little pork drippings, olive oil or butter in the bottom of a round bottomed iron pot, and when hot turn in the meat and let it brpwn. When well colored, add boiling water to cover and a small sliced onion and let it simmer a couple of hours, or until thoroughly done. Then prepare the dumplings in this way: — Sift together two cupfuls flour, a teaspoonful and a half baking powder and a half teaspoonful salt. Add a cupful milk, mix quickly and drop the batter in large spoonfuls on the meat. Take care not to let them fall into the gravy, else they will be heavy. Cover closely and cook steadily ten minutes or longer; but do not uncover under ten minutes. Arrange around the edge of a hot platter, dish the meat in the centre, add flour to the gravy, enough to thicken, cook a couple of minutes, strain over the meat and serve immediately. If preferred, the dumplings may be 46 MEATS mixed the same as baking powder biscuit; baked, then split and used ■with the meat and gravy in the same way. BRAISED VEAL. — For this use either the fricandeau or prime piece of a leg of veal which weighs from three to four pounds, the shoulder "boned and stuffed or the breast. Most of the bones of the breast will not need to be removed, as they become tender in the cooking. Brais- ing is the ideal way of cooking veal. The old time braising was done in a- regular braising kettle with a cover which held coals, thus cooking "both top and bottom at the same time. To-day nearly all braising is done in the oven in shallow pans, with deep, close fitting covers. The meat, seasoned or stuffed, is put in the pan, covered with hot stock and an abundance of herbs, seasoning, the vegetables, like young onions and carrots, covered closely, then braised with frequent bastings until brown, juicy and thoroughly cooked. The time required is usually about three hours. A good forcemeat for stuffing veal is made by running through a meat chopper a pound lean veal and a quarter pound sausage meat. Soak the crumbs of a half loaf of bread in cold water, then squeeze dry. Add a tablespoonful salt, a teaspoonful pepper, two onions chopped fine and fried in a little olive oil or butter, and parsley, sage or thyme to season to taste. Stuff the breast or shoulder with this mixture and tie up. CALF'S EARS. — Scald in boiling water, rub with a coarse cloth, drain and cook for three hours in stock or water seasoned with onion, salt and bay leaves. When tender take out, slit the top of the ear, and, having made a rich cream sauce of two tablespoonfuls each butter and flour, a cupful of milk or stock, with salt, pepper and nutmeg to season, simmer the ears in this for an hour. When ready to serve stir in the yolks of two eggs and a little lemon juice and dish on toast, with a :garnish of sliced hard boiled eggs. When a more elaborate dish is desired, extend the slit in the ear and garnish with trufHes or mushrooms. CALF'S HEAD ENTIRE.— When the head comes from the market already scraped and cleaned all that is necessary to do is to scald it and rub with a coarse cloth to take off any remaining hairs. Have ready a saucepan large enough to hold the head, which should be tied in a piece of thick muslin. Cover completely with boiling water. Let it boil up once or twice, skim thoroughly, then add salt, pepper, parsley, a little onion and carrot, a spice bag or, failing that, a bay leaf, two or three cloves and a little marjoram. Then push back on the range, where it can simmer gently for five or six hours. When done remove the muslin, lay the head on a white napkin with a garnish of lemon and parsley, trim the ears so they look shapely and put a lemon in the mouth. Serve with sauce piquant. Save all the broth in which it was cooked, as it makes a thick jelly suitable for soups and sauces. If preferred \he head may be boiled entire, then boned and the meat cut in small pieces. Put a cup of the stock over the fire and when hot thicken with a tablespoonful ■of flour stirred smooth with a tablespoonful of butter. Season with salt MEATS 47 and pepper, add two heaping cupfuls of the meat to the stock and cook for five minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs with a cupful sweet cream, stir into the stock and take at once from the fire. Add two tablespoon- fuls Madeira and a squeeze of lemon juice and serve with baked pota- toes and hot raised biscuit. Prepared in this way it is an excellent sub- stitute for terrapin, which it closely resembles in taste. VEAL CROQUETTES.— Mince fine one cupful of r.old veal, add a half cupful of cooked sweetbreads, also cold and minced, one cupful of cooked rice, a few drops of onion juice, and minced parsley, celery or thyme to season. Moisten with a little rich veal stock, and heat over the fire. Add salt and pepper and one beaten egg yolk, cook for one or two minutes and turn out on a dish to cool. When firm and cold, form into croquettes, pear shaped, stick a clove in the small end, to simulate the stem, roll lightly in bread crumbs, then in beaten egg to which a tablespoonful of milk has been added, again crumb and fry in smoking hot fat until a golden brown. VEAL GOULASH. — Fry a tablespoonful chopped onion to a golden brown in a tablespoonful olive oil or butter. Add a pound lean veal cut in inch pieces. Season with salt and paprika, sprinkle with a tablespoon- ful flour and stir until slightly browned. Then add one cupful stock or water, cover and simmer for an hour. Add one cupful diced raw pota- toes and cook fifteen minutes longer. Add a tablespoonful minced pars- ley or green peppers, cook five minutes more, then serve. VEAL A LA MARENGO.— Take three pounds lean, juicy veal, freed from fat and bones. The neck is particularly suitable for this purpose. Cut in cubes about two inches in size. Put in the bottom of a pot two tablespoonfuls of oil or pork fat drippings, and when hot add a sliced onion and cook a golden brown. Then add the veal seasoned with salt and pepper and dredged lightly with flour and fry until well browned. Watch closely and turn as required. When all the pieces are brown, pour three cupfuls good white stock over the meat with a half cup strained tomatoes and a soup bag to season, or a little celery, parsley, thyme, cloves and bay leaf. Simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour, then dish on a hot platter with a circle of heart shaped pieces of fried or toasted bread about it. Skim the gravy, then thicken and strain over meat and bread. Serve with rice and green peas. FRICANDEAU OF VEAL LARDED.— This is a thick cut of three or four pounds from the leg. Remove all skin and tendon and pound with a potato masher until almost as tender as pulp. This is the French method of treating veal and is an essential thing to do. Beef, on the other hand, is ruined by the pounding process, which breaks the fibres and lets out the juices. After the pounding, form into a loaflike shape and lard the upper part with delicate strips of fat and salt pork. Season with salt and pepper, sear in hot fat, sprinkle with just a suspicion of 48 MEATS powdered sugar and roast in a rather cool oven. When ready to serve garnish with carrots boiled or fried and cut in long strips, peas and potato balls. CALVES' TAILS.— Cut three or four tails in two inch lengths, then parboil ten minutes. Drain and put into a stewpan, cover with water or stock, adding a quarter pound bacon from which the rind has been removed. Cook slowly until the tails are tender and the broth re- duced nearly half. Slice the bacon and arrange around a mound of cooked spinach, well seasoned. Make a circle of the tails around outer circumference of the dish, thicken the broth with flour, color brown with culinary bouquet or browned flour, season with a little lemon and pour over the whole. SWEETBREADS.— The first treatment of sweetbreads is always the same, no matter in what form they are to be served. When they come from the market soak in cold water for two hours, then boil five minutes in fresh water, drain and drop again in cold water. Now wipe, pull off the windpipes and fibres, after which they may be prepared in any way preferred. If you wish them creamed, cook until tender, then flake or cut in small pieces. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, add a scant tablespoonful of flour, and as soon as blended add a cupful of rich milk or cream, with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over delicately browned slices of toast. Or fry the sweetbreads and an equal quantity of mushrooms in butter, then blend with cream, slightly thick- ened. In broiling, sweetbreads after being blanched are dipped in oil, salted and peppered, then broiled over a clear fire. Sweetbreads and ia|con go excellently together. After the preliminary treatment fry in jfitton fat and serve with slices of fried bacon and cucumbers. Sweet- l^eads and peas are another happy combination. Fry slices of the sweet- breads brown in olive oil or butter, arrange them on a hot dish in a circle around a mound of hot, well seasoned peas. For a curry cut the sweetbreads into dice shaped pieces and cook tender in a little white stock of chicken or veal, to which a few slices of onion have been added as seasoning. When tender remove the onion, thicken the broth slightly, add a teaspoonful of curry powder and a few drops of lemon juice, then serve very hot. CHOU FARCI OR STUFFED CABBAGE.— This is a very popu- lar dish in England and on the Continent and finds appreciation by many who would not eat cabbage in any other way. Select a firm head of cabbage, green or red, pick clean and lay in salted water for an hour, pulling the leaves apart, but not breaking them off. Drain, put into boiling salted water and cook fifteen minutes. Drain and cool. Have ready a forcemeat made of a pint Italian chestnuts mixed with an equal quantity sausage meat, mashed potato and sausage, or a cup and a half chopped roast beef, mutton or veal, with half as much fine crumbs and weak stock to moisten and herbs to season. Cut out the stalk of the cabbage, leaving a cavity large enough for the forcemeat. Pack in, wrap the cabbage in a crocheted net made for the purpose, or a piece of cheesecloth, then simmer slowly in a saucepan with a cup of broth well seasoned. Cook for an hour and a half, tightly covered, remove the wrapping, lay the cabbage on a heated platter and pour over it a gooj brown sauce. A variation is to put the stuffing between" the leave&jo! the cabbage as well as in th^ centre, filling all the interstices. FRENCH ARTICHOKES, COLD.— A French artichoke to be eaten cold with French salad dressing should have the leaves left on, the stalk trimmed off close to the bottom, then be plunged into salted boiling water and cooked until the leaves pull off readily and the little cup or fond at the base is tender. Drain and chill. When ready to serve have the dressing in little sauceplates at each plate. The correct way to eat the artichoke is to pull off the leaves one by one, dipping the flesh end in the sauce and nibbling off the little bits of flesh. When the leaves begin to be flabby and without meat at the end pull out all with the bristly heart. This leaves the little fond of the vegetable, which is eaten by pouring the rest of the dressing into it, then separating into mouthfuls. A delightful introduction to a course dinner on a hot night is the heart of a cooked artichoke cut with a cooky cutter to give it a fancy edge, then thoroughly chilled. Fill the cup of the fond with caviare sprinkled with finely minced parsley, and the yolk of a hard boiled egg, pressed through a ricer or frosting bag in star or flower design. A few drops of lemon juice gives the needed zest. 49 50 VEGETABLES CANAPES OF ASPARAGUS.— This makes an exceptionally dainty entree. To prepare the canapes, take slices of stale bread about two inches thick and stamp into meat rounds with a biscuit cutter. With a smaller cutter mark a circle in the centre of each and scoop out the crumbs to the depth of an inch. This must be carefully done so as to leave a firm bottom and sides. Beat an egg and add to it a cupful of milk. Arrange the canapes in a shallow dish and pour the milk and egg mixture over them. This amount will make five or six canapes. Let them lie in this just two or three moments, then take up carefully and slip into a kettle of boiling lard. They must not be crowded. They will turn a golden brown in just a moment and need to be carefully watched to prevent their getting too dark. . Take out with a skimmer and drain on soft paper. Cook the tender tops of a pint of asparagus, then drain well. Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls butter and one spoonful flour. When bubbly add a half cupful boiling water and let come to a boil. Add the cooked asparagus, the juice of half a lemon and a tablespoonful chopped parsley. Fill the canapes with this, arrange on a napkin or platter and garnish with slices of cut lemon and parsley or cress. STUFFED ARTICHOKES.— Trim oS about half an inch from the tops of the artichokes and cut off the leaves from the bottom. Wash thoroughly the rest of the vegetables, put into a saucepan with plenty of boiling salted water and cook until tender. Take out, drain, scoop put the fibrous insides and press perfectly dry. Put the tops of the leaves in a frying pan with two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and fry. Place in another frying pan three tablespoonfuls of chopped bacon, and as it fries out add two tablespoonfuls of flour. Put in a few minced herbs to season, then pour in a little broth to make a thick sauce. Cook five minutes. Season the artichoke cups with salt and pepper, fill with the cream dressing and cover the top of the cup with a thin slice of bacon, tying with a string to keep it in position. Put into a baking pan with a little gravy or broth and bake twenty-five minutes. Arrange the cooked leaves on a hot dish, remove bacon and string from the. artichoke cups, place on the cooked leaves and serve hot. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.— Great care is necessary in cooking Jerusalem artichokes, as, owing to the absence of starch, they do not become dry and mealy in the cooking like the potato. A nice way to prepare them is to cut in slices, boil in salted water until tender, but not too soft. It will take about twenty minutes. Drain and dry on a soft towel. Put a tablespoonful of butter inxa frying pan, add one onion sliced and cook until a light yellow, then put in the artichokes and toss until a delicate brown. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and minced parsley. Or wash and peel the 'chokes, cut in small cubes, then cook in boiling salted water, taking care not to overcook them. Put in a baking dish or individual ramekins, sprinkle on a layer of grated Parmesan cheese and cover with cream sauce. Put buttered crumbs over the top and bake VEGETABLES 51 ■until the crumbs are a golden, brown. The artichokes may also be cooked tender and added to a good white or cream sauce, or cooked in milk with a little onion, using a double boiler for the cooking and thick- ening with flour. They also make an excellent cream soup. DANDELION GREENS.— Pick over tender dandelion leaves, wash carefully through several waters, then throw into an abundance of boil- ing salted water and cook gently for fifteen minutes. Drain, turn cold water over them from the faucet, to chill and blanch. Drain again. Chop fine and when nearly ready to serve warm in a frying pan with butter, pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little nutmeg. Mound in a hot dish and slice two or three hard boiled eggs over them. Dandelion greens are also cooked with bacon. In this case cook the well cleaned leaves ten minutes in boiling salted water, then drain and return to the saucepan with fresh water and a pound of bacon allowed to a half peck dandelions. Add salt, pepper and a little onion, and boil gently until tender and nearly dry. Serve the greens on a hot platter with the bacon sliced and arranged around it. DANDELION SALAD. — For salad use the common dandelion blanched by growing through a depth of sandy soil or under earthen pots is preferred by many to the choicest cresses. Blanched in this way it is delightfully tender, crisp and white, without the bitter taste. Suc- cessive crops of this may be grown throughout the summer if not al- lowed to blossom. The tender green leaves of young field dandelions picked before the plant blossoms are also used for salad. To prepare for serving, wash several times in cold water, drain well, put the leaves in a dish and cut fine. Sprinkle with salt, cover and stand in a cool place for several hours. Then drain again. Mix six tablespoonfuls of oil with three of vinegar or lemon juice and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Pour over the leaves, toss well and serve. ASPARAGUS. — ^The French method of cooking asparagus is to im- merse the stalks tied up in a bundle in boiling salted water, allowing the tips to stand above the water, so as to steam tender while the tougher portions are boiling. Cook until tender but not broken, and serve with melted butter, white sauce or a Hollandaise sauce. A French woman eating asparagus takes a stalk at a time in her fingers, dips the head in the sauce provided and daintily nibbles down the stalk as far as it seems tender. In America it is usually served on buttered toast, each slice of toast being dipped into the asparagus liquid. The "up-State" method of cooking asparagus is preferred by many. Only the tender portions of the stalks are used, the tougher parts being reserved for the stock pot. Cut the tender portions of the stalks into half inch lengths and cook until tender in just enough boiling salted water to cover well. When tender — and it will not require more than twenty minutes — season them and the liquid in which they were cooked with salt and pepper, plenty of butter and cream or milk, and 52 VEGETABLES serve on toast alone or in deep individual serving dishes. In this way the whole distinctive flavor of the vegetable is preserved. COLD ASPARAGUS.— There are many ways of treating cold asparagus, all of which are appetizing. With just a French dressing it is dainty and specially attractive on a hot day. With a little mustard added to the dressing, many like it still better. With a mayonnaise or sauce tartare it comes close to perfection. Again, lemon juice or simply salt is used with chilled asparagus. To be eaten cold, asparagus must always be well drained and perfectly chilled. EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE.— Cut the egg plant in slices, peel, cover with salt and put a weight on top of the piled up slices tc extract the bitter, acrid juice. At the end of two hours fry in olive oil or good drippings, and arrange part of the slices in layers around the sides and bottom of a cooking pot. Lay the other fried slices one side. Now fry, in the same drippings, one pound chopped meat and one onion, sliced, and put a layer of the meat and onion on top of the sliced egg plant in the saucepan. Next should come a few slices of tomatoes, sea- soning all with salt and pepper. Over this put another layer of egg plant, then more meat and tomato, and so continue until all the ingredi- ents are used. Add a little stock or hot water to partially cover, put on the lid and cook gently on top of .the stove until the water is almost gone. This is a delicious way of cooking egg plant and hearty enough for the substantial course at dinner. STUFFED CUCUMBERS.— Choose large cucumbers, two or three in number, peel and remove the seeds with an apple corer. Fill the cavities with a forcemeat made of a half pound minced veal, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, also chopped; a half tablespoonful chopped onion, a tablespoonful minced parsley, one beaten egg, salt and pepper to season and crumbs to make a good consistency for stuffing. Place the stuffed cucumbers in a stewpan with a cup of stock, a tablespoonful butter, a tablespoonful vinegar and a minced onion and simmer for an hour. Strain off the sauce and thicken it with a half tablespoonful of flour. Pour over the cucumbers and serve as an entree. GREEN CORN SUCCOTASH.— Cut the raw corn from the cob, first scoring each row, then pressing out the pulp with the back of a knife, leaving the hulls on the cob. Cook the cobs in a little water for twenty minutes, then strain and add the water to the shelled beans, which should equal the corn in quantity. Cook gently until the beans are tender. When nearly done add the corn pulp, cook five minutes longer, season highly with butter, cream, salt and pepper (a little sugar if desired) and serve hot. GREEN CORN CHOWDER.— This is a savory mixture of green corn, green peppers and tomatoes. To a half dozen ears of corn allow VEGETABLES 53 five tomatoes, five green peppers and five small onions, all minced. Cook the onions a golden grown in a little bacon fat, then add the other vege- tables, having the corn cut from the cob as nearly whole as possible. Cover with boiling water and simmer for an hour. Season with salt and pepper and serve. CORN FRITTERS.— These are a favorite garnish for fried chicken or Belgian hare. To a cupful of fresh corn pulp cut from the ear allow a half cup cracker crumbs mixed with a half cup milk. Add two eggs, whites and yolks beaten together, and season with salt and pepper. Have ready a very hot spider or pancake griddle, well greased with butter or olive oil, and drop in the batter, a spoonful at a time. When the fritters are brown on one side turn to the other, that they may be well cooked through. Four minutes will make them a golden brown. TO COOK CUCUMBERS.— For those who cannot eat cucumbers raw or tire of them in that fashion there are many ways of preparing them tastily. Pared, cut in halves and the seeds removed, they may be boiled until tender in salted water, then served on a hot dish with plenty of melted butter. Or they may be cut into dice, boiled in salted water, drained and served on toast with a cream sauce. "They are delicious cut in rather thick slices, dried with a towel, dusted with salt and peper, dipped into beaten egg, then in crumbs, and fried. Serve with hash or minced meat. To serve with mutton cutlets, English fashion, cut the peeled cucum- ber in thick slices and fry brown in a little butter, seasoning with salt, pepper and a little minced onion. Cover with stock and simmer gently for half an hour. Just before serving squeeze a little lemon juice into the pan. Serve the cucumber in the gravy, with the cutlets around. CUCUMBER SALAD. — Cut off three-quarters of an inch or more from the ends of each cucumber, and take off a thick paring, as the bitter juice lies next the skin. Shave with a vegetable cutter or cut in thin, even slices and throw into ice cold water until ready to serve. Drain, place in a pretty china bowl or low glass dish with cracked ice and serve with a French dressing or simply salt, pepper and vinegar. Bermuda onions or young home grown onions, sliced thin, are often mixed with cucumbers. In this case a dusting of finely minced parsley over the salad will do much toward removing all odor of the onion. A little minced fresh mint is also deemed an addition to raw cucumbers by some people. Cucumbers also combine well in salad with sliced raw tomatoes, ribbons of green peppers and cold boiled pickled beets. GREEN CORN OMELET. — Score the rows and scrape out the pulp of five small plump ears of corn. Mix with five well beaten eggs, one teaspoonful cream, and salt and pepper to season. Have hot and buttered a sheet iron frying pan. Pour in the mixture and shake and tilt the pan until it is evenly cooked. Roll and serve on a hot platter. 54 VEGETABLES CELERY ROOT SALAD, CELERY RELISH.— Peel the roots, put in cold water for twenty minutes, then put into a saucepan with cold water to cover and salt to season. Cover and cook until the roots are tender. Drain, cut the roots in slices, then chill. When quite cold, cover with a French dressing. To make the relish take wide pieces of tender, crispy celery, and fill each one with a mixture of cream cheese, paprika, cream, chopped olives and salt. Chill and serve with brown bread or thin crackers. BROILED SWEET CORN.— Husk the corn ears, then steam for fifteen minutes or cook in boiling water three minutes. Drain and dry on a towel. Lay on a well greased broiler and toast over a good bed of coals or under the gas broiler, turning until brown on every side. Serve with salt and plenty of sweet butter. GREEN CORN PUDDING.— For a medium sized corn pudding use the pulp of a half dozen ears. The easiest and best way to cut corn from the cob for pudding, fritters or corn oysters is to score the kernels with a sharp knife, cut a slice from the tops of the different rows of corn and then with a dull knife scrape out the pulp remaining. Beat two eggs together, add a half teaspoonful salt and a cup and a half of milk. Stir in the corn pulp, and bake the whole for about two hours in a deep pud- ding earthenware dish. Keep covered. If the corn lacks sweetness two tablespoonfuls sugar may be added to the eggs in stirring them with the other ingredients. The pudding should be of the consistency of custard. DELICATE WAYS OF COOKING CARROTS.— Scrape and boil young carrots in salted water until tender. Cut in halves lengthwise, roll in fine cracker crumbs or flour, then in egg and cracker crumbs again and fry in olive oil or hot butter until a golden brown. Sprinkle with fine chopped parsley and serve very hot; or, after scraping and boiling, cut in strips and roll in sugar to which has been added a little salt. Have oil or butter very hot, drop in the strips of carrots, and as soon as the edges brown take up, sprinkle with parsley and serve. These are known as caramel carrots. To cream carrots scrape, slice thin crosswise and boil in salted water until tender. It will take about an hour. For each cupful carrot allow one-half cupful sweet cream, a salt- spoonful each salt and sugar, a teaspoonful butter and a sprinkling of pepper. Add to the drained carrots. Just before sending to the table add a few freshly toasted crackers, well buttered. If desired a teaspoon- ful flour may be combined with the butter, making a regular cream sauce. DRESSING FOR CABBAGE COLD SLAW.— Have ready three cupfuls fine shaved cabbage. Put into the frying pan or chafing dish (for this is an approved chafing dish relish to serve with trout or smelts) four level tablespoonfuls of butter and two rounded tablespoon- VEGETABLES 55 fuls flour. Melt together until creamy, add a level saltspoonful white pepper or a speck of cayenne, a level saltspoonful salt, a teaspoonful mustard, four teaspoonfuls sugar and a half cupful vinegar and cook until smooth. Beat the yolks of two eggs until lemon colored and thick, and add quickly to the vinegar. Pour the hot mixture over the egg. A half cupful cream can also be added if desired. Pour the vine- gar rapidly into the cream and it will not curdle. Milk is more apt to curdle on account of its lack of oil. If you use milk, double the quantity of butter, then pour over the cabbage and toss until well blended. CAULIFLOWER SALAD.— Trim the cauliflower, then soak, head down, in cold salted water for an hour. Plunge into boiling salted water and cook until tender, but not sodden. Drain dry and set aside until cold. Pick into small flowerets and cut the stalks in pieces, keeping stalks and flowerets separate. Put the stalks in a bowl and mix with them a tablespoonful each minced onion and parsley. Make a dressing, using eight tablespoonfuls oil, three of tarragon vinegar, or half and half vinegar and lemon juice, half a teaspoonful salt and a saltspoonful mustard and paprika. Pour over the cauliflower, toss and mix carefully and lightly, and arrange with the flowerets on the top. Garnish with olives and slices of lemon or minced parsley and hard boiled egg yolk put through a ricer. BOILED CORN. — In selecting corn, that with short, thick ears, green, tender husks and dark silk will be found best. To test the con- dition of the corn turn back the husks and press a kernel with something sharp. The farmer uses his thumb nail. If the milk flows freely the corn is in the pink of condition. Like peas, corn loses its sweetness after being broken from the stalk. Freshly picked it is at its best. In boiling, remove the outer husks, turn back the inner husks and twist together over the ear. Bind with a husk, put in a saucepan, spread the outer leaves over the top, pour on cold water to cover and bring quickly to a boil. Cook only five or six minutes, as overcooking toughens. Strip off the husks, wrap in a serviette and serve piping hot. If the family is large it is a good plan to cook the corn in relays. CELERY, APPLE AND NUT SALAD.— Clean the celery nicely, wash well, then crisp by keeping in a damp napkin on the ice. When ready to use cut in crescent shaped slices and put in a bowl. For one cupful celery add one cupful thin slices of tart apple and a half cupful pecan or walnut meats. Marinate with a French dressing and serve in lettuce cups. Other celery combinations that go well for salads are equal parts fine dried potato and celery, equal parts of shredded cabbage, fine cut celery and English walnuts, with mayonnaise; celery and pineapple in equal quantities marinated with lemon juice, then dressed with mayonnaise and garnished with lettuce leaves and pistache 56 VEGETABLES nuts; canned herrings broken in pieces and mixed with celery and cooked beets in equal parts; celery and sweetbreads with mayonnaise; celery, green peppers and tomatoes. CABBAGE SALAD. — When celery is unobtainable in the summer a little crisped cabbage may be used in combination with veal or chicken in a salad. It also combines well with salmon, tomatoes, lobster, cucumbers, sweet peppers and shrimps. When cabbage is to be shaved or chopped for cold slaw or salad, it should be laid in cold water for an hour or two first to get crisp. Dressed with lemon juice and the best olive oil it is much more delicate and digestible than when vinegar is used. Another excellent dressing for a cabbage salad is made in this way: — Chop or shave fine a medium sized head of cabbage that has been crisped and season to taste with salt and pepper or paprika. For the dressing, beat the yolks of two eggs, add two table- spoonfuls melted butter, and beat again. Add a tablespoonful thick, sour cream, two tablespoonfuls sugar, half a cup vinegar and a sprinkle of mustard, and beat until thoroughly incorporated. Pour over the cabbage and mix. FRIED EGG PLANT. — No way of cooking egg plant is more suc- cessful than frying, as the preliminary work of removing all acridity can then be thoroughly done. Cut the plant into slices about half an inch thick, rub each slice with an abundance of fine salt, lay them in a bowl one over another and cover with cold water. Put a saucer and weight on top to hold them down and let remain for three or four hours. Rinse off the slices and dry each one with a cloth. Season with pepper, dip in beaten egg, then in dried and sifted bread crumbs and fry in drippings or olive oil until a golden brown on each side. They must be thoroughly cooked, but not burned. CELERY WITH CREAM SAUCE.— Cut the white stalks into two- inch lengths and cook in boiling salted water to cover until tender. It will take about half an hour. Drain, saving the water for soup stock, and cover the pieces with a cream sauce made from two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, salt and pepper to season and a cupful and a half of milk. Less flour and a fresh egg yolk added to the sauce makes it that much richer. STUFFED EGG PLANT.— Parboil a good sized, firm egg plant for ten minutes, then lay in ice cold water for an hour. Meantime make a forcemeat, using a half cup minced boiled tongue or ham, a teaspoon- ful each minced parsley and onion, salt, pepper, a beaten egg and a little cream to moisten. Take the egg plant from the water, wipe dry and cut in halves lengthwise. Scrape out the seeds and enough of the pulp to make a good sized cavity. Chop the pulp and add to the dressing already prepared. Fill the cavity, fit the two halves to- gether and bind in place with a strip of clean muslin. Lay in a deep VEGETABLES 57 baking pan, pour a cup of stock around the vegetable, cover and bake!; half an hour. Lift into a hot dish, remove the binding and pour about the plant the gravy that has formed or a butter or tomato sauce. The French prefer to use sausage mixed with bread crumbs for their force- meat. In a formal course dinner, stuffed egg plants hot and with a sauce, is usually served alone as a separate course following the roast. At the ordinary family dinner it comes on with the meat, or at a season of extreme heat, takes the place of meat. In the latter case the stuffing should be hearty. BOILED CABBAGE.— Cut a small head of cabbage into quarters, cutting through the stalk. Put head down in a large pan of salt water to draw out any insects that may be hidden among the leaves. Take out, drain and cut into large slices, removing the stalk. Put into a large saucepan of boiling water, add a tablespoonful salt and cook with the cover partly oflF for half or three-quarters of an hour, dependent upon the size of the cabbage. Take out and drain through a colander, pressing, to remove as much of the water as possible. Put into a chopping bowl and chop, season with salt, pepper and butter, and serve hot. Cabbage is also used when boiled in the water in which corned beef has been previously cooked, or with salt pork or bacon. In this case the meat is cooked first, the cabbage being added three- quarters of an hour or so before time for serving. BOILED LIMA BEANS.— Shell the beans and throw into cold water for a half hour before cooking. An hour before they are required drain, cover with boiling water, add salt to season, or, if preferred, a little piece of fat salt pork, and cook gently until tender. When done, drain off the water (be sure and save it for your stock pot), add pepper and a little fresh butter and serve. To serve Hollandaise style, cook until tender, adding salt when half cooked. When done there should be very little liquid remaining. If too much, drain. For one quart of the beans beat a quarter of a cup of butter to a cream. Add the yolk of an egg, a tablespoonful minced parsley, a quarter teaspoonful paprika and half a tablespoonful lemon juice. When well blended stir carefully into the beans to avoid crushing them, and serve at once. CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.— If the cauliflower is exceptionally perfect and fine, pick off the coarse outer leaves, wrap in a cheesecloth, cover and cook in boiling salted water for about half an hour, but do not cook until it is sodden. Drain thoroughly and put into a deep dish, dredge thickly with grated Parmesan cheese, then a thinner layer of stale bread crumbs, and on this a number of little pieces of butter the size of filberts. Cook in a brisk oven to a golden brown and serve hot. If the cauliflower is not perfect, after cooking in the salted water break into flowerets, put them with the stems, broken in pieces, in a shallow baking dish, sprinkle with pepper, grated cheese and crumbs moistened in melted butter. Add a little milk to moisten, then another 58 VEGETABLES layer of the flowerets, crumbs, cheese, etc., with a thin layer of buttered crumbs on top. Bake until delicately browned. STRING BEANS (Italian Style).— Take the fresh, tender beans, break off tops and bottoms carefully, stringing both sides and paring the edges neatly. Wash in cold water, soak half an hour, then drain and throw in a saucepan of boiling salted water. Add for each quart beans two tablespoonfuls olive oil or sweet butter, then simmer half an hour or longer until tender. When ready to serve add more seasoning and plenty of sweet butter. Another improvement for many tastes is the adding of a half cup stewed tomatoes at the same time with the boiling water and olive oil. Still another way of seasoning string beans calls for grated cheese, chives, a little minced parsley, the yokes of two eggs, beaten with a tablespoonful powdered sugar and a cup whipped cream. N BRUSSELS SPROUTS.— Pick over the sprouts, then wash thor- oughly through several waters. Place over the fire with water to cover, adding a little salt and a small amount of baking soda. Leave off the lid and cook rapidly twenty-five minutes, or until tender, then drain. Put into a saucepan a good bit of butter, add the sprouts, with salt, pepper and, if desired, nutmeg to season and toss until the sprouts are heated through. Serve mounded on a hot dish, or on slices of hot buttered toast, if preferred. BEET GREENS.— Take the young, tender tops of beets and the young beets when necessary to "thin out" in the garden. Wash very thoroughly through several waters, cover with boiling water, lightly salted, and cook until tender. Drain, chop, season with salt and pepper and serve with a garnish of the yolks of hard boiled eggs put through a ricer. If desired a little salt pork or bacon can be boiled with the greens and sliced and served with them. SPANISH BEANS.— Soak two and a half cupfuls of small red beans in water over night. In the morning cook two hours in fresh water, then add one-half can of strained tomatoes. Fry two good-sized onions a delicate brown in a half cupful of olive oil, add two whole Chili peppers and salt to taste. Turn all into the beans and cook slowly an hour and a half. Just before they are done add one tablespoonful of vinegar. These keep well even in warm weather, and the oftener they are warmed up the better they taste. EGG PLANT AU GRATIN.— Cut the stem end from a good sized plant and scoop out the inside, leaving just enough wall to hold the shell in shape. Cook in boiling salted water for ten minutes, then lay in cold water while preparing the forcemeat. Put the pulp that was scooped out in a bowl, rejecting the seeds and sprinkle with salt. Leave for an hour with a plate and weight on top. At the end of that time VEGETABLES 59 squeeze well and drain. Chop. Put a pint of canned tomatoes or a quart of fresh ones in a saucepan with a few slices of onions, two sprigs of parsley, a clove and a bit of bay leaf and simmer twenty minutes, stirring often. Strain through a coarse sieve, allowing the tomato pulp to go through. Add to the egg plant that was chopped a cupful bread crumbs soaked in milk and a part of the tomato puree, reserving the rest for a sauce. Add the yolks of two beaten eggs, salt and paprika to season and a tablespoonful butter. Mix thoroughly, then stuff the plant, spread- ing a thin layer of buttered crumbs over the top. Put in a baking dish, in which you have poured three tablespoonfuls olive oil, and bake half an hour in a hot oven, basting frequently. Season the remainder of the tomato, which is to be used as sauce, reheat, and pour over the egg plant when ready to serve. BEET AND RHUBARB JELLY.— This is a fine relish to serve with the meat course. Take equal parts of young beets, boiled tender, and rhubarb sliced without peeling. Cook together until very tender, put through a sieve, then through a jelly bag. Measure the juice, and to a pint allow a pound of sugar. Heat the sugar in the oven, add to the hot juice and cook five minutes longer. Turn into heated glasses and cover when cold. GREENS. — The list of edible "greens" is much more varied than usually supposed. Beside the commonly known spinach, Brussels sprouts, kale, lettuce, dandelion, beet greens and water cress, there are mustard greens, sorrel, chicory, "doucette," or corn salad, escarole, narrow dock, cowslip, horseradish, milk weed, rhubarb tops, purslane and pig weed. The table preparation is similar in all. There must be first a thorough looking over, then washing piece by piece in at least five different waters. Cover with boiling water to which a half teaspoon- ful common cooking soda has been added to preserve their color and cook until tender. A crust of bread in the water in which they are boiling will absorb much of the odor brought out in the cooking. When done put in a colander to drain, then chop and reheat in butter, season- ing with pepper and, if liked, a little nutmeg. For very robust appetites a piece of fat pork cooked with the greens gives a seasoning that "goes to the right spot." They are, however, more delicate and wholesome when cooked in boiling water and seasoned with butter; OKRA GUMBO. — Cut into pieces a two or three pound chicken and brown lightly in a kettle containing a tablespoonful each lard and butter. Add two slices of ham cut into squares and a cup hot water; then simmer, stirring often, for ten or fifteen minutes. Add a medium sized onion chopped fine, a half pod red pepper without the seeds, a couple of tomatoes peeled and sliced, a sprig of parsley and a quart of okra pods thinly sliced. When all these ingredients are cooked and browned pour over them three quarts boiling water, push back on the range and simmer about an hour. Serve hot with boiled rice. 60 VEGETABLES LENTILS.— To cook lentils, look over carefully, wash thoroughly and soak over night in cold water. In the morning drain, then cover with boiling water and simmer gently for several hours until tender. After this the treatment may be varied. They may be sauted in butter, with or without a little onion, then covered with a brown sauce made by adding a tablespoonful browned flour and a teaspoonful vinegar. The contents of the pan may be made into croquettes by seasoning lentil pulp with salt, pepper, onion juice and parsley, wetting with a little cream and shaping into croquettes, dipping in egg and bread crumbs and frying in deep fat. Serve with mint or tomato sauce. Curried lentils are also nice. Cook German lentils that have been soaked over night in vegetable stock. When quite soft, add a teaspoonful curry paste, a fried onion, a chopped apple and teaspoonful chutney. Mix well and serve with a border of boiled rice and chipped potatoes. A cupful of lentils will serve for a family of four or five, as the vegetables swell in the cooking. BOILED OKRA. — ^Wash and cut off the ends of young pods, cover with boiling salted water and cook about twenty minutes, until tender. Drain, add cream (a scant cup to a quart of okra), a tablespoonful butter and salt and pepper to taste. Another way of stewing is to cook it with tomatoes. To a pint okra pods, washed and sliced, allow a tdozen ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced, and one medium sized onion. Stew slowly for an hour, adding a tablespoonful butter, a scant tea- spoonful salt and pepper to season. No water will be required, the tomato juice sufficing. In the West Indies lemon juice and cayenne are also added to stewed okra. SUMMER BEETS.— Choose the smooth, round variety, wash and clean without bruising or cutting the skin, leaving on a number of stalk leaves to prevent losing any of the beet juices. Cook in boiling salted water for one or two hours, dependent upon their size, then plunge at once into cold water, when the skin can be rubbed off between the fingers without a particle of waste. Cut the beets in thin slices or cubes, sprinkle with pepper, salt and a speck of sugar, and if they have become slightly chilled in the peeling put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful butter. Toss lightly, without breaking, until heated through, then serve. Or use hot cream instead of butter, and when hot add a little lemon juice or vinegar and a tiny bit of sugar. Some like them quite acid with cider vinegar. This is a matter of individual preference. Others like a little grating of nutmeg added to the season- ings. KOHLRABI.— This is a sort of cabbage-turnip combination^ the stem swelling out above the ground to the size of a large turnip. It is a great favorite with the Germans, who cook it as follows: — Trim off the leaves, peel, cut into quarters and boil in slightly salted water until tender. Serve with a cream sauce poured over it. Still another way of VEGETABLES 61 cooking is to take oflE the tops and strip ofiE the stem. Chop leaves and head fine and cook in salted boiling water about twenty minutes. Drain and serve with a sauce made as follows: — Fry a small piece of bacon with an onion until well browned; remove meat and onion, add a little hot water and thicken with browned ilour, or the ordinary flour, using a teaspoonful culinary bouquet to color a rich brown. BROILED EGG PLANT.— Slice the same as for frying and soak in salt and water for a couple of hours. Then drain, wipe dry, brush each slice on each side with olive oil and broil over a clear coal fire or under the gas flame. Arrange on a hot platter and spread with hot butter beaten to a paste with lemon juice. BAKED BEETSv— Many old-fashioned cooks like the English way of baking beets instead of boiling. They claim they preserve their natural sweetness better when baked. Wash well, but no not break the skin. Put into a baking tin with a little hot water thrown over them. When tender, peel, slice and serve with oil and lemon' juice, pepper and salt, or butter, pepper and salt. Boiled beets are fine chilled, sliced with celery, and covered with mayonnaise. BAKED MUSHROOMS.— Peel and remove the stems from large, fine mushrooms. Lay in a porcelain lined saucepan with a tablespoonful sweet butter. Let the juice gradually draw out, then season lightly with salt and pepper, and saute. Put round slices of toast in the baking dish, cover with mushrooms and liquor from the pan in which they have been sauted, cover with the glass bells that come on purpose for mushrooms and bake for from fifteen to twenty minutes. When ready to serve add a tablespoonful hot cream to each dish and serve under the bells. If you have no bells, let the mushrooms simmer six minutes in the porcelain saucepan, adding as much cream as you have mushroom liquor, season with salt and pepper, and serve on slices of delicately browned toast. BROILED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST.— Pare neatly, trim off the stems of large niushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, wipe over with olive oil, then broil over a hot fire until the caps are filled with juice. Lay carefully on slices of brown toast, put a piece of butter on each mushroom and serve hot. These are a delicious accompaniment to broiled birds. A few drops of lemon juice is deemed an addition to the taste. STRING BEANS (Sauted in Butter). — Prepare the beans as usual and cook in boiling salted water until nearly tender. Drain and place in a saucepan over the fire, adding a generous lump of butter and salt and pepper to season. Cook until quite tender, add a little finely chopped parsley and serve very hot. 62 VEGETABLES MUSHROOMS WITH TOMATOES.— Take medium sized, firm to- matoes and with a sharp knife cut a thin slice from the stem of each. Scoop out a portion of the pulp with a teaspoon and sprinkle the cavity lightly with salt and pepper. Take button mushrooms, remove the stems and rub off the outside covering with a bit of clean flannel dipped in salt. Lay a mushroom in each tomato. Chop the stems of the mush- rooms fine, also a tablespoonful fat salt pork. Add the pulp taken from the tomatoes with an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs and the juice of half an onion. Mix all together, fill each tomato with the mix- ture and replace the tops that were cut off. Set in a buttered baking pan, lay on each tomato a bit of butter or a small slice of fat salt pork and bake until the inside mixture is thoroughly cooked. Serve very hot. FRIJOLES OR MEXICAN BEANS.— For a small family wash a pint of the small brown beans and put to soak over night. In the morning parboil and throw away the water. Cover with fresh water and simmer until the beans are tender but not broken. Take a quarter pound breakfast bacon, cut into tiny squares and snip a Spanish pepper into bits, using the scissors for this purpose. Omit the seeds of the peppers. Now put all into a deep crock, or bean pot, arranging in layers with beans at the bottom and bacon at the top. Season each layer of the beans with a little salt and just a suspicion of brown sugar. If too dry add more water, for the beans take up a great deal in the baking and the dish should be juicy, though not mushy, when done. Bake all day in a slow oven and serve for supper. Fresh pork cut in squares is sometimes used instead of the bacon, in which case more salt is required. The pork or bacon which always forms the top layer should be brown and crisp. BOSTON BAKED BEANS.— Soak one quart of well washed pea or kidney beans over night. In the morning drain, cover with fresh cold water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of soda and let them come to a boil. Cook until the skins crack when you blow upon them. Strain. Take half a pound of salt pork, "streak of fat and streak of lean," wash and score the rind. Pack the beans in an earthen pot until about two- thirds full. Add the pork and cover with the rest of the beans, leaving just the rind exposed. Take a good dessertspoonful of salt, two of molasses, half a teaspoonful of mustard and a quarter of a saltspoonful of red pepper. ■ Add a pint of warm water and pour over the beans. Bake slowly all day, or put in the oven at six o'clock and bake covered all night. Add water from time to time to keep the beans moist, until the last few hours. When done the beans should be soft and tender, but whole; brown on top, yet moist, and the pork cooked to a jelly. PICKLED MUSHROOMS.— Select small button mushrooms freshly gathered. Cut the stems off quite close and wipe ofl the outer covering with clean flannel dipped in salt. Throw into cold water, lightly salted. VEGETABLES 63 but drain quickly and wipe dry with a soft cloth, or the moisture will weaken the pickle. For each quart prepared mushrooms allow a scant quart white wine vinegar, a heaping teaspoonful salt, a teaspoonful white pepper, a tablespoonful ginger, ground or sliced, a quarter of a salt- spoonful cayenne tied in a cloth, two blades mace and a few gratings nutmeg. Bring to a scald, throw in the mushrooms and cook from six to ten minutes, according to size. If some are larger than others put the larger ones into the vinegar a moment or two before the smaller ones are added. As soon as tender, put in small glass jars, dividing the spices equally between them. As soon as cold seal and keep in a cool, dark place. Use small jars, as the contents of the can spoil quickly after being opened. LENTIL HASH. — To make the hash mix together one pint cooked lentils, one-half pint cold potatoes chopped; two tablespoonfuls butter, two tablespoonfuls chopped onion, half a cup of milk and salt and pepper to season. Cook slowly half an hour in a buttered frying pan, then brown and turn on a hot dish. Garnish with a little parsley and serve alone or with poached eggs dropped on top of the hash. KALE. — ^There are several varieties of kale, the most desirable be- ing the dwarf green curled. It is in season both spring and fall. To cook it remove all old or tough leaves, wash thoroughly, then cover with boiling salted-water. Cook rapidly, uncovered, until the vegetable is tender. Drain, pressing out the water, chop fine, then put into the frying pan with butter and a little meat broth or water to moisten slightly. Season with pepper and a little more salt, if needed, cook five minutes and serve hot. BEAN CROQUETTES. — Boil two cupfuls white beans that have been soaked in cold water over night. Add one sliced onion and cook until beans and onion are tender. Pass through a sieve and season with a heaping tablespoonful butter, melted, two eggs well beaten, salt, pepper and minced parsley. If necessary, moisten the mixture with gravy or hot water flavored with beef extract. Mould into croquettes, roll in egg and bread crumbs and fry in deep hot fat. Serve with to- mato sauce. FRIED ONIONS. — Slice rather large white onions, soak in milk ten minutes, then drain, dip in flour and immerse in boiling fat hot enough to brown the onions instantly. A wire basket is a great convenience for frying. The moment the slices are crisped remove. If allowed to cook five or six minutes the slices cannot be kept whole. If you have no frying basket take out with the skimmer and drain on brown paper. Cooked in this way the onions will be firm yet well cooked and delicious. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve. COOKED LETTUCE. — When lettuce is too old and too tough for salad, it may be cooked in a variety of toothsome ways. The Germans 64 VEGETABLES stuff it. Trim and clean a half dozen heads of cabbage lettuce. Wash thoroughly, cut the hearts out of each and lay aside for salad. Parboil the rest of the heads four minutes, drain and stuff with sausage force- meat. Tie each head carefully in shape, lay in a buttered dripping pan, add a half cup rich stock or gravy and season with salt and pepper. Cover closely, cook fifteen minutes, then untie, dress on a hot dish and pour the sauce in which they were cooked over them. Serve hot. If there is not sauce enough, stir in the stock remaining in the pan after the lettuce has been taken up a tablespoonful each of butter and flour. Season with salt and pepper, add a cupful stock or hot water and stir until smooth and creamy. Add a teaspoonful culinary bouquet to flavor and color a rich brown. Pour over the lettuce and serve. The Ger- mans also fry lettuce, boiling the head first in salted water, then drain- ing until cool, after which it is dipped into an ordinary frying batter and cooked in deep fat. Lettuce may also be, prepared like greens in boiling salted water, then drained, chopped and seasoned with melted butter, salt, pepper and a little broth to moisten. PEAS WITH PORK.— Cut a quarter pound fat salt pork into small pieces. Put a tablespoonful butter in a saucepan over the fire, and when it melts add the pork. Cook to a light brown, then add a quart shelled peas, one-half cupful water or stock, a small white onion and salt and pepper to taste. Cook gently until the peas are tender. LETTUCE FOR SALAD.— Remove the outer withered leaves, cut off the stalks and break the tender leaves apart. Remove the thick veins and put in cold water. Shortly before serving, drain in a wire basket or colander, shaking well to free from all moisture, then put in a salad dish. Never dress lettuce until a few moments before serving, as it wilts quickly. If the leaves are all tender and delicate they may be served whole. Where they are large, yet tender, they may be cut in ribbons with a pair of shears. A good dressing for lettuce consists of a mixture of three tablespoonfuls each of oil and vinegar, a scant half teaspoonful salt and pepper to season. Two or three hard boiled eggs may be cut in quarters and laid on top of the salad. An Italian dressing for lettuce is' made in this way: — Stick part of a clove or garlic into a bit of bread and pour over this a French dressing made of three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one of tomato juice, fresh or canned, a teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly together and pour over the lettuce. Lettuce combines well with any other salad and is invaluable as a garnish. OKRA SALAD. — ^Wash the pods and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and chill. Then they may be eaten from the fin- gers with French dressing like cold asparagus, or may be sliced and mixed with cucumbers, tomatoes or green peppers, alone or in combi- nation. An individual plate of French dressing accompanies each portion. VEGETABLES 65 Where the pods are to be eaten out of hand the stenris are not re- moved, but left for handles. A few okra pods added to the pickle jar will be found a great addition. MUSHROOM CATSUP.— The old recipe for mushroom catsup given by Dr. Kitchner, the great English epicure of the eighteenth cen- tury, is still considered the best known. A few drops will go further than twice the quantity of any other brand. To make it, gather a gallon of flap mushrooms and allow six ounces of salt to that quantity. Sprinkle the salt evenly over the gills of the mushrooms, arranging them in layers in a large porcelain dish. In about three hours, when the salt has thoroughly penetrated the mushrooms, mash with a wooden potato masher and let them remain for two days, occasionally stirring and mashing. Allow to each quart one ounce and a half black pepper, half an ounce allspice, two inches ginger root, two bay leaves and two blades of mace. Boil the catsup for two hours longer, strain through a hair sieve without squeezing, then cook until reduced to about half the quantity. Bottle in small bottles, filling in the neck with a teaspoon- ful olive 1 oil or French brandy. Seal. The unpressed mushroom can be utilized in preparing a catsup for immediate use. Heat over a slow fire, press through a sieve until all the juice is extracted, then season and proceed as with the first grade. LENTIL AND RICE CAKES.— This is a good substitute for Ham- burg steak. Soak a half cup lentils over night and then simmer in boil- ing salted water until tender. Cook one-half cup rice and add to the lentils. Chop a small onion fine and add to the mixture, together with a little parsley, thyme, and salt and pepper to season. Form into cakes, dip into beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs and fry in hot drippings or olive oil to a golden brown. Serve with onion sauce and gravy. CREAMED ONIONS. — Peel a quart of medium sized white onions, cover with boiling water, adding a teaspoonful salt for each quart of water. Boil rapidly ten minutes with the cover partly ofiE, then drain and cover again with fresh boiling water. Cook until tender but not broken, drain and add milk to cover (it will take about lialf a cup for every six onions). Simmer until quite done, then thicken with a tablespoonful butter, rubbed smooth with a tablespoonful flour. Add salt and pepper to taste, cook, stirring all the time until the sauce is creamy and thick- ened, then pour into a hot dish to serve. A change may be made by turning the onions, sauce and all, into a serving dish that can go into the oven, covering with buttered cracker crumbs, then baking until brown. Still another variation is to cover the top of the cracker crumbs with grated cheese. Onions cooked in this way will be found very deli- cate and not odorous. PARSLEY. — No bit of parsley should ever be wasted. Leaf, stalk and root are all excellent for seasoning soups, sauces, forcemeats and 66 VEGETABLES salads. Whenever any is left over, dry in the oven, rub through a sieve and bottle for ready use. Minced fresh parsley is a delicious addition to creamed potatoes, potato salad, fish and cream soups of every sort. Fried parsley is delightful served with fried fish. Wash a few stalks of fresh parsley, dry well, put in a frying basket and plunge in a kettle of deep hot fat. Fry a moment only, lift up the basket, remove the parsley with a skimmer, salt lightly and serve around the fish on the platter. A pretty garnish for fried or broiled fish is circles of lemon, dotted with fine minced fresh parsley. SCALLOPED OKRA.— Wash and slice a pint of okra pods, then brown in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Shake over the fire four or five minutes, add a cupful boiling water, a teaspoonful minced onion, one-half teaspoonful salt, and simmer half an hour. Wash one-half cupful rice and boil twenty minutes in salted water. As soon as tender, drain and shake dry. Into a buttered baking dish put alter- nate layers of rice, okra and thin sliced tomatoes, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper and butter, and having the last layer of the rice. Put bits of butter over the top and bake half an hour in a hot oven. PANNED TOMATOES (With Cream Gravy).— Wash good sized solid tomatoes and cut in halves. Put skin side downward in a buttered baking tin. Put a lump of butter on each tomato, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then bake until soft but not browned. Have in readiness as many slices of buttered toast as you have tomatoes, and lift the tomatoes on the toast. Make a cream gravy in the usual way, pour over the toast and tomatoes and serve. PARSNIP FRITTERS.— Boil the vegetables until tender in boiling salted water. Press through a colander, then mix with them two beaten eggs, salt to season and flour to bind stiffly. With floured hands divide the mixture and pat into small round cakes. Brown in a frying pan in hot butter on one side, then turn to the other. They should be a golden brown. Drain, pile on a hot dish, garnish with fried or fresh parsley and serve. SPANISH OKRA. — ^Wash a quart of tender pods, cut ofif the ends, but do not slice. Put into a saucepan with a quarter pound of lean raw ham, chopped fine, and enough good stock or gravy with thick stewed tomatoes to cover. Simmer gently, until the okras are tender, adding a little onion juice or suspicion of garlic, if desired. When the okras are quite tender add a tablespoonful each butter and flour, rub to a cream and stir until smooth and thickened. Simmer five minutes longer, turn into a hot dish, sprinkle with minced parsley and serve. GREEN PEPPERS (For Salads or Relishes).— The simplest way of serving green peppers, uncooked, is to cut thin slices from the green outside, omitting the white inner part. These strips are eaten raw with VEGETABLES 67 salt, like celery, and are an approved accompaniment to fried soft shell crabs. Sliced in thin rings, the sweet green peppers make a tasty addi- tion to sliced cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, or, indeed, almost any salad. A heaping tablespoonful of chopped green peppers combines excellently ■with scrambled eggs or any mince of veal, chicken or lamb. Chicken salad is delicious served in green pepper cups. To prepare the cups, take green peppers, cut off the tops and carefully remove all the seeds, without breaking the shell. Put into cold water for twenty minutes or longer, then drain, wipe and fill. Among other excellent fillings for green peppers are chopped nuts. The old-fashioned butternut, chopped and lightly salted, makes a de- licious filling. The tiny green peppers are delightful filled with chopped walnuts. They should be prepared the day before using. Scrape all the seeds and soft fibre from the peppers, great pains being taken not to break the pretty stem ends of the vegetables. Use a small sharp pointed knife. Fill with the chopped and lightly salted nuts, replace the stem end, then set in the icebox until ready to serve with the meat or salad course. A pepper salad containing equal parts of green and sweet red peppers and celery, all chopped fine and mixed with mayon- naise or French dressing, is excellent to serve with the meat course. PEAS. — ^Unless fresh from the vines, peas are improved by an hour's soaking in cold water before shelling. Do not shell until nearly ready to cook, then add a few well washed pods to give the peas flavor. If the peas are young and tender, the simplest way of cooking them is best. Shell, cover with boiling water and cook gently with the cover partially off for about twenty minutes, or until tender. _ Over-cooking ruins peas and takes away the fresh green color which is so desirable. Some good cooks advise the addition of a little soda to soften and give a green color to peas, but this is not advisable. If peas have reached that extremity they are only fit for soup, or to be cooked with pork, which tends to soften them. Do not salt until about half done. A little sugar may be added at the same time if the peas lack natural sweetness, but use it with discretion. When done, add plenty of sweet butter and, if liked, a little cream. This last addition is a favorite with "up-State" cooks. Epicures declare that there is a natural affinity be- tween the flavor of mint and peas, and both French and English cooks usually add a sprig of mint to every mess of peas. A head of lettuce also combines well with peas. It should be added during the cooking, but removed before serving. The natural juice of the lettuce expressed in the cooking makes almost enough moisture for the peas. PARSNIPS.— To bake, wash, scrape and cut the parsnips length- wise into quarters. Put into a steamer and steam one hour, then place in a baking dish, seasoning with salt and pepper. Pour over them some nice meat drippings and bake until nicely browned. Drain on soft paper and serve. To boil, wash but do not scrape. Put into a sauce- pan of boiling water well salted and cook until tender. This will take an hour or longer, according to size. When done rub off the skins with 68 VEGETABLES a rough towel, lay in a hot dish and serve with butter or cream sauce. For boiling, split into thick slices after boiling and, removing the skin, dip in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper and broil over a hot fire. Parsnips may also be boiled and mashed, like potatoes, sea- soning with salt, pepper and butter. BAKED POTATOES.— Select oval potatoes having a smooth, un- marred skin, and of uniform size. Scrub until perfectly clean, then rinse and drain. Put in an old baking tin, kept for this purpose, or on the clean oven grate and bake in a hot oven. Forty minutes is about the time required for the baking. Serve as soon as done. Sweet po- tatoes should be boiled until almost tender before baking, then put in the oven to finish. To test whether potatoes are done, press with a cloth. Cold baked potatoes may be warmed so as to be almost as palatable as fresh ones, if they are dipped in hot water, then put into the oven and allowed to remain just long enough to get perfectly hot, but not long enough to harden. Contrary to general opinion, cold baked potatoes may be creamed or fried quite as satisfactorily as the boiled ones. FRIED PEPPERS.— Select peppers that have not commenced to turn red; take out all the seeds and slice crosswise into cold water. Leave for twenty minutes, then take out and pat dry on a soft towel; sprinkle with salt, shake in flour until covered, then fry slowly in hot olive oil or pork drippings for five or six minutes. When done they should be soft and slightly browned. They are excellent served with steaks, chops or cold meats, or combined with rice in this way: — ^Wash and boil a cupful rice, then turn into a vegetable dish. Fry one-half dozen peppers cut in rings in butter or oil. Mix the rice in the dish with a rich tomato sauce, arrange the pepper rings about it, pour the butter in which they were cooked over all and set in the oven, covered, for three or four minutes before serving. SWEET POTATOES.— These should receive their first cooking with skins on. After that they may be prepared in a variety of ways. Select those of uniform size, wash, drop in boiling water and cook fifteen minutes. Take out and lay in the oven to bake until mealy and tender. Peel before sending to the table. Good as they are this way, they are much richer with a second cooking. Cut cold baked or boiled sweet potatoes into quarter-inch slices. When you have a pint put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the frying pan or earthen dish, and when very hot lay the potatoes in. Sprinkle the top with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, pour over lightly two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and. cook until hot and brown. Cold potatoes may also be cut lengthwise into slices one-quarter of an inch thick and be fried in hot drippings or butter to a golden brown. STUFFED PEPPERS.— This is the most common and one of the satisfactory ways of serving green peppers. Select sweet peppers of uniform size, wash and plunge in boiling salted water. Let them simmer VEGETABLES , 69 five minutes, drain, cut off the stem ends and remove the seeds and soft inside. Wipe, stuff with any forcemeat desired, replace the covers, brush with oil. Set in a baking pan and bake for fifteen or twenty minutes* basting frequently with stock or melted butter. Among the forcemeats specially suited to green peppers are minced sausage meat mixed with grated onion, buttered bread crumbs, parsley and lemon; bread crumbs and minced ham, well seasoned with butter, salt and parsley and mois- tened with tomato juice; cooked veal, chicken, or half and half veal and chicken with soft bread crumbs, seasonings of salt, summer savory and thyme and stock or butter to moisten. Ham and chicken in combi- nation make good forcemeat, as does half a cupful of minced boiled ham or tongue with a cupful fine bread crumbs, onion juice, parsley, melted butter and salt to season. Nuts and rice make another good forcemeat, using half as much chopped nuts as hot boiled rice, seasoning with a little butter, tomato and salt. Baste frequently with hot salted rwater, with stewed tomato stock or beef extract dissolved in hot water. PEA SALAD. — Cook the peas in water to cover, then chill. Serve alone on lettuce leaves with a boiled or French dressing, or combine with sweetbreads, turnips, carrots, sweet or white potatoes, separately or altogether in a Macedoine salad. To make the latter, cook separately the turnips, carrots and white and sweet potatoes, mix with the peas and serve on lettuce leaves, with French dressing.^ A little variation is made by cutting into dice a root of cooked celery, a boiled beet and a carrot, adding to this mixture a small cup of steamed asparagus tops, one- half cup each cooked string beans and peas and a chopped raw onion. Mix well, season with salt and pepper to taste, then pour on two table- spoonfuls of oil and one of vinegar. Toss, heap in a mound and chill. Just before serving spread a cup of mayonnaise over the top. If one or more of the above mentioned vegetables are lacking their places may be supplied with almost any leftovers on hand. PARSNIP STEW. — Allow for one pound of fresh parsnips one pound fat salt pork and one pound potatoes. Chop the pork fine, pare the potatoes and slice thin; scrape the parsnips and cut in thin slices. Put a layer of pork in a stewpan, follow with a layer of potatoes, then one of parsnips. Repeat with pork, potatoes and parsnips until all have been used. Cover with cold water, season with salt, pepper and celery salt, thicken with a little Boston cracker rolled fine, and set on the back of the stove where it can cook gently for three-quarters of an hour. BAKED GREEN PEAS.— Take the pods from a quart of sweet green peas and cook the pods for an hour in boiling salted water. Strain and cook the liquid down to a scant pint. Add a tablespoonful of but- ter, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper to taste. Put the peas into a buttered baking dish or individual ramekins, pour the liquid over, sprinkle fine buttered crumbs over the top, cover and bake for half an hour. Uncover and bake a golden brown, then serve. 70 VEGETABLES ONIONS RAW AND IN SALAD.— For eating raw or as a salad select young home grown onions or the mild Spanish or Bermudas. Peel, slice, cover with hot water and let them stand covered for half an hour. Turn off the water, pour on as much more ice cold and leave them half an hour to crisp. Drain, dress with salt and vinegar or a French dressing with oil and serve. To banish the odor a little sugar or parsley moistened with vinegar, eaten immediately after, will be found effective. Follow with a thorough rinsing of the mouth and teeth, using a few drops of tincture of myrrh in water. People who think they cannot eat raw onions will find that prepared in this way there will be no after effects of heartburn or bad breath. A salad of cucumber and sliced onion or shaved cabbage and thin onion rings is appetizing, dressed with a plain French dressing or a mayonnaise. It must be borne in mind that old onions are much stronger than new, and red than white or yellow. GREEN PEA PUREE.— Simmer gently for one hour and a half a pound of lean lamb and a slice of bacon in one quart and a half of water. Add a sprig of mint, a teaspoonful of minced onion, salt and pepper to taste, and a quart of green peas. Simmer one-half hour, then press through a colander. Make a rich white sauce, using a tablespoon- ful of flour and a heaping tablespoonful of butter, with one cup and a half of hot milk. Add salt, pepper and sugar to taste, then the pre- pared peas; gently bring to a boil and serve hot. Dried or split peas may be soaked over night, then cooked until tender (it may take sev- eral hours), then pressed through a colander and treated like the fresh peas. CREAMED PEAS (In Turnip Cups or Bread Croustades).— Make a good white sauce, using a tablespoonful each of flour and butter with a cup of milk. Add a pint of peas cooked tender and season to taste with salt and pepper. Have ready a dozen new round white turnips, medium size, that have been boiled in salted water until tender. Drain, scoop a hollow in the centre, cut a slice from the bottom so the turnips will stand upright and fill with peas. For the croustades have ready thick rounds of bread, their centres stamped out with a cooky cutter. Fry these in butter and fill with the creamed peas. If preferred, the peas may be cooked in boiling water to cover, with the addition of a sprig of parsley, one of mint and a small green onion. Remove the onion, parsley and mint, add a tablespoonful of butter, a little pepper and the yolks of two eggs beaten with veal or chicken stock or cream. Stir until the sauce thickens a little, then fill the croustades. BAKED POTATOES ON HALF SHELL.— Bake rather large po- 'tatoes in a brisk oven for about forty-five minutes. When soft take out, cut in two lengthwise, remove the interior, taking care not to break the skin. Put into a bowl, and for six potatoes allow a table- spoonfur butter, a teaspoonful salt, one-h^f teaspoonful pepper and a scant cup of hot cream. If milk is used be more generous with the VEGETABLES 71 butter. Unsweetened condensed milk may also be used. Now whip briskly until the mass is as "light as a feather" and snowy white, return to the shells, smooth the top of each with a knife dipped in cold milk, set on the oven grate to crisp and serve at once. A little grated cheese is sometimes sprinkled over the top of the potatoes, then crisped. GLAZED ONIONS.— Mild onions are required for this way of cook- ing. Melt one-half cup butter in a saucepan, then put in as many peeled onions as will fit in without crowding. Move about until all are well coated with butter, sprinkle with a tablespoonful sugar, then pour over the onions a well flavored soup stock, well salted (if you have no stock on hand, dissolve a little beef extract in hot water), and simmer until the onions are tender. Take off the lid of the saucepan and let the stock simmer down to about one-half cupful. Serve in a heated covered dish as an accompaniment to a roast of mutton. BOILED POTATOES.— Potatoes are nicer, of finer flavor and more nutritious if not peeled before cooking. The best part of the potato, the salts or flavoring principle, lies next the skin, while according to experiments at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station it has been found that three per cent of the carbohydrates and four per cent of the albuminoid material are lost when potatoes are cooked with their skins removed. Scrub the potatoes in cold water with a vegetable brush. Then with a very sharp knife cut a little band of skin around the centre of the potato and a little bit of the skin from each end. Put finto the saucepan, cover with boiling water, cook rapidly about fifteen minutes, and salt in the proportion of a tablespoonful to a dozen pota- toes; then continue boiling ten or fifteen minutes longer, until the potato is tender enough to be pierced with a fork or skewer. Drain at once, I^ush back on the stove, and let them steam uncovered until every particle of the steam has gone and the potatoes are mealy. They may be served in their jackets or without, as preferred. The peeling is quickly accom- plished. If they must be kept warm any length of time a layer of cheesecloth spread over the kettle will keep out the cold air and assist in retaining the heat. If the potatoes are of different sizes put the large ones in first, and after 'they have boiled five minutes add the smaller. Old potatoes are sometimes better if soaked in cold water for one-half hour before cooking, but new ones lose much of their nutritive value if soaked. If you prefer to peel the potaties before cooking peel thin. In the case of new potatoes the thin outer skin can be rubbed off with a brush or coarse towel. Another nice way to boil potatoes with their jackets on is to put into hot brine and boil until tender. If you can get this from some salt manufactory, as at Syracuse, it is best. If not, make it at home; but it must be strong. Serve with jackets on and plenty of good butter. CREAMED POTATOES.— These may be made from freshly boiled potatoes or cold ones diced. For a pint of potatoes make a white sauce, 72 VEGETABLES allowing one tablespoonful flour and two of butter, one cupful milk, a tablespoonful chopped parsley, a little cream, if you have it to spare, and salt and pepptr to season. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and stir until bubbly and well cooked. A frequent cause of failure with creamed potatoes comes from the raw taste of the flour. Add the milk and seasoning with the cream. One-half cup is a good allowance. As soon as the sauce thickens and grows smooth, add the potatoes, which may be whole if new and small, diced, or cut in balls, if older. Do not stir. When well heated, add the fine minced parsley and serve. Potatoes may also be baked in cream. Cut into dice, put in a buttered baking dish, dust with salt and pepper, cover with cream sauce, sprinkle with a fine layer of cheese or bread crumbs, and bake until a golden brown. ONIONS STUFFED WITH CHEESE.— Boil large Spanish onions a few minutes, then cut in two and remove the centres. Fill the cavity with a dressing made of bread crumbs, minced ham, grated cheese, and salt, butter, pepper and thyme to season. Pack all you can get in. Place in a baking dish with an inch of deep gravy or stock, or failing these, beef extract dissolved in hot water. Place a bit of butter on each onion and bake, basting frequently. It will require about one-half hour. An- other good forcemeat is made of a mixture of chopped cooked meat, chicken, sweetbreads or veal, an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs, moistened with cream and melted butter and seasoned to taste. Pliace in buttered muffin rings, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and bake. PUMPKIN CHIPS. — Tajce what quantity you choose of good, sweet pumpkin (the old Connecticut field pumpkin is best), halve, take out the seeds and cut into chips the size of a dollar. For each pound pumpkin allow one pound of fine white sugar and a gill of lemon juice. Put the chips in a deep dish and sprinkle over each layer a layer of sugar. Turn the lemon juice over the, whole. Let it remain a day, then boil the whole together, with one-half pint of water allowed to each three pounds of pumpkin, one tablespoonful of ground ginger tied up in muslin bags and the peel of the lemony cut into shreds. When the pumpkin becomes tender turn the whole into a stone jar and set away in a cool place for a week. At the end of that time pour the syrup off the chips, boil down until rich and thick, then turn back over the pumpkin and seal. This makes a delicious sweetmeat. SCALLOPED POTATO.— This is a hearty dish for supper on a cold night or for a substantial dinner. Peel thin, then slice crosswise in rather thin pieces. Let stand in cold water for ten or fifteen minutes, then drain. Have ready a good sized earthen baking pan and butter well. Put in a layer of sliced potatoes, then season with salt and pep- per, dot with bits of butter and sprinkle lightly with flour. Add another layer of potato, season in the same way, and so proceed until the dish is full, with plenty of butter on top. Now pour in hot milk until you VEGETABLES 73 can just see it through the top layer of potato, and bake in a moderate oven from half to three-quarters of an hour. If it browns too fast cover at first. Then uncover and brown. A little grated onion or onion juice may be used in seasoning the layers if desired. Potatoes Persillade. — ^To make these, wash and peel nice white pota- toes, then cut into small balls with a potato scoop that comes for that purpose. Boil in lightly salted water, drain dry and serve with melted butter, and minced parsley poured over them. SCUFFLED POTATOES.— Cook a quart of peeled potatoes in boiling salted water until tender. Drain, mash fine and mix with the potatoes one cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of butter and the well beaten yolks of two eggs. Whip until light, fold in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth and pepper to season, and put the potatoes in a soufHe dish. Make five or six dents on top of the potatoes, put a little bit of butter in each, set the dish in a medium oven and bake to a light brown. Set into the silver souffle service dish and serve. FRENCH FRIED POTATOES.— Old potatoes are better for this, or the little yellowish potatoes that German cooks use for potato salad. These contain more gluten. Peel very thin and cut in long thin strips lengthwise. Let them stand in cold salted water for two or three hours. Drain and wipe dry; put into a wire basket and fry in very hot, deep fat until brown. Take out and lay on a piece of manila paper to absorb the fat; dust with salt and serve. Another way to fry potatoes is to put a little olive oil in a deep frying pan; when very hot add sliced cold boiled potatoes. Cover, and cook until a golden brown, turning once. Drain, put in a hot vegetable dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Still another way, that the French chef delights in, is to chop cold boiled potatoes, then season lightly with salt, pepper and onion juice. Put a couple of tablespoonfuls of olive oil or good drippings in the fry- ing pan, turn in the potatoes, press into a solid cake and cook slowly until crusty and brown on the under side. Turn on a hot platter, with the brown side uppermost. MASHED POTATOES.— Peel potatoes of uniform size, cover with boiling water and cook until tender, salting the water in which they are cooked when the potatoes are about half done. Drain off the water, then with a fork or wire potato masher beat to a fluff in the same sauce- pan in which they have been cooked. When entirely free from lumps add for every pint of potatoes about one-third of a cup of hot milk, a table- spoonful of butter, and salt and pepper to season. Whip until as light as a feather. Heap in a hot dish, but do not snxooth the top; leave it piled lightly. If necessary to keep hot for some time, set the pan con- taining the potatoes in a saucepan of hot water, but leave uncovered or cover lightly with a single fold of cheesecloth. Mashed potatoes left over may be utilized in a variety of ways. To make potato pompon take the potato up by spoonfuls and make into balls. Roll in beaten egg. 74 VEGETABLES then in bread or cracker crumbs and fry like doughnuts in hot fat. A little minced onion, parsley or nutmeg may be mixed with the potato if desired; or make a potato omelet by adding to a cupful of mashed potatoes one cup of sweet milk, three eggs well beaten, a tablespoonful of flour and a little salt. Mix until smooth, turn into a heated frying pan, with a tablespoonful melted butter, and fry both sides, turning when brown. Mashed potatoes left over may also be added to shredded codfish for codfish balls, may be mixed with well beaten egg yolks made into flat cakes and fried in butter, or baked in a buttered tin in the oven, or mixed with a little grated cheese, put into ramekins or a but- tered pudding dish with a layer of cheese on top and baked until brown.. POTATO BALLS. — Peel six large ripe potatoes, then with a potato scoop cut out little balls about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Wash well in cold water, then drain and pat dry. Put in a baking dish with a tablespoonful of melted butter, toss until well coated, sprinkle with salt and pepper and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. If you prefer to stew them, cook until tender in boiling salted water; drain; have ready a thin cream sauce, put in the potatoes, boil three or four minutes, adding a tablespoonful of fine minced parsley and serve. Potato balls are also served in a maitre d'hotel sauce. Boil, drain, put in a saucepan with a tablespoonful butter and a teaspoonful minced parsley. Simmer, covered, five minutes, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them and serve very hot. DUTCH POTATOES.— Peel rather good sized potatoes thin, then with an apple corer cut out a tunnel through each centre. Have ready as many frankfurter sausages as you have potatoes and draw one through each cavity. Place in a dripping pan and lay a blanket of fat salt pork or a thin slice of bacon on each potato. Pepper lightly and bake until the potatoes are tender, basting occasionally with the drippings and a little hot water. GERMAN LYONNAISE~POTATOES.— Fry one-half cupful thin sliced onions in butter or drippings to a light brown, then add one and one-half pints sliced or hashed cold boiled potatoes, season with salt and pepper and fry to a lighter brown than the onions. Five minutes before serving add a tablespoonful fine minced parsley and three tablespoonfuls vinegar, toss lightly and serve very hot. STUFFED POTATOES.— Select large, oval potatoes, scrub thor- oughly, rinse in cold water and bake in a moderate oven until all but done. Take from the oven, cut in halves, scrape out the pulp from each half, put in a dish, season with salt and pepper, and butter and cream to moisten, and whip light with a fork. Fill the shells with the pulp, heaping moundwise. Grate a little Parmesan cheese over each and stand under the gas flame or in the oven long enough to brown. Serve hot. The melted cheese adds greatly to the flavor. Another way is to make a fine hash with some cooked fish, fine herbs and the potato pulp. VEGETABLES 75 adding seasoning, butter and a little white sauce. Stuff the potatoes, cover with more white sauce and cheese if desired, then brown in the oven. Or cut a piece from the side of the baked potato, scoop out some of the pulp, season and beat light, then return to the shell, leaving just enough room to hold a raw egg broken in. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and return to the oven long enough for the egg to "set." SWEET POTATO SOUFFLE.— Boil and bake four medium sized potatoes. When done peel and mash. Beat the yolks of two eggs. Add two tablespoonfuls of cream to them, then beat into the potato, with salt and pepper to season, and place the dish in the oven while you beat the whites to a stiff froth. Draw the dish to the edge of the oven, fold in the whites, replace and bake until light and a delicate brown. Serve at once before it falls. SWEET POTATOES EN SURPRISE.— Select plump oval pota- toes, rather long; wash, and boil about fifteen minutes. Remove, drain and . dry. Cut in two lengthwise and scoop out an opening in both parts, deep and wide enough to hold a small bird, such as a reed or blackbird. Prepare as many birds as you have potatoes, cleaning and seasoning with salt and pepper. Dust the cavities in the potato with salt and pepper, then brush with olive oil. Lay in the bird, trussed and sea- soned, with a thin, waferlike piece of bacon or larding pork tied over its breast. Put the two halves together and close with a string. Lay in a buttered baking dish and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. Take out, cut the strings on potatoes and birds, put the two halves to- gether again and serve very hot. THE PUMPKIN. — For all general uses, the pumpkin is dryer and sweeter baked. Cut in quarters or halves, remove all seeds and place in a large dripping pan. Bake, without adding water, for about one hour, or even less, according to size. The skin will then be soft and crispy and the flesh dry and mealy. Scrape out with a spoon, put into a colander and press through. It is then ready for pies, pancakds or croquettes. All the watery juice that exudes should be saved to make a loaf of delicious pumpkin juice brown bread. The seeds are appetiz- ing and among the Italians take the place of our salted nuts. Wash free from the sticky shreds that surround them, then dry in the sun or a rather cool oven. When ready to salt, spread on a baking tin, salt liberally, then set in a hot oven, shaking and stirring often until crisp. SORREL. — ^This delicately acid vegetable may be used in combina- tion with spinach or cooked alone as a vegetable or soup. As a vege- table to serve with roast veal, roast pork or chops, cook the same as spinach, adding the yolks of one or two eggs after boiling, chopping and sauteing in butter. It also makes a tasty addition to any green salad. SPINACH. — Spinach is one of the most delicate and healthful of all the pot greens. It is one of the vegetables that improves with each successive warming over, so that the French housewife usually cooks 76 VEGETABLES it in a quantity with the idea of reheating it. Like all greens, it must be carefully looked over and thoroughly washed. Cut off all the stalks, put into a large pan of cold water, plunge up and down to remove the sand, then lift out into a second pan of water. Do not attempt to drain the water off, as that leaves the sediment at the bottom. Rinse a third time, then put into a kettle with the least bit of water (there is usually enough clinging to the leaves) for fifteen or twenty minutes. It may be seasoned with salt while cooking. Drain, cover with cold water and drain again, pressing free from moisture. Chop fine. Have ready in a frying pan a tablespoonful of hot butter, add the spinach, season with salt, peppei and, if liked, a little nutmeg and cream. If cream be used less butter yill be required. Heat thoroughly and serve on a hot dish, surrounded by toasted bread points. Garnish with the yolk of a hard lioiled egg ^ ut through a ricer over the spinach. PUMPKIN A LA ITALIENNE.— Boil pieces of pumpkin in salted ■water for fifteen minutes. Drain, put two tablespoonfuls of butter or olive oil in a frying pan, and when melted lay in the sliced pumpkin, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Toss over the fire a few min- utes, then lay the slices in a buttered baking dish, sprinkle grated cheese •on top and bake until nicely browned. Serve very hot as a vegetable. SPINACH CROQUETTES.— These are made from one-half peck spinach, boiled, cooled and chopped fine. Mix with it two tablespoon- fuls of butter, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, one teaspoonful of sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and salt and pepper to season. Add one-half cup of milk, heat thoroughly, then cool. When cold shape into croquettes, dip in egg and crumbs and fry in the usual way. SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT.— Salsify is one of the most wholesome and delicious of vegetables, easily prepared, and with almost no waste. The green tops make an excellent salad in combination with lettuce, onions or tomatoes. Having cut off the tops of a bunch of salsify, scrape the roots as you would carrots, cut in small slices and soak in cold water for an hour or two. Then cover with boiling water to half their depth, salt to season, and simmer gently until tender. If there is any water left, save it for the stock pot. Put in a tablespoonful of butter and a cup of rich milk or cream, then thicken slightly with one- half tablespoonful of fiour. Cook two or three minutes until smooth and creamy, then season with white pepper and pour over slices of delicately browned and buttered toast. SALSIFY FRITTERS.— Scrape and slice a quart of salsify roots and simmer in boiling salted water until tender. If they are to be used for dinner at night they should be ptit to cook early in the afternoon. Let the water boil off instead of draining, in order to preserve the fine oyster flavor of the plant. Press through a colander. Sift into a bowl a pint of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one-half tea- spoonful of salt. Beat two eggs thoroughly and add to them enough VEGETABLES 77 sweet milk to make a good muffin batter when added to the dry ingred- ients. Drop in the salsify, season with pepper and more salt if neces- sary. Have ready a frying pan in which is a tablespoonful of good pork drippings or olive oil, and when smoking hot drop in the fritters from the point of a spoon. When brown on one side, turn and brown the other. Take up with a perforated ladle, rest for a moment on soft paper to absorb all grease, and serve hot. These are almost as good as fried oysters. SALSIFY AU GRATIN.— Boil the salsify without scraping until tender, when the skin may be peeled off. Slice thin. Put into buttered shells or one large baking dish, as preferred, a layer of salsify, then one of crumbs, with salt, pepper and butter to season. Repeat until all the salsify is used, having buttered crumbs at top. Pour in as much milk as the dish will hold, and bake brown. A pleasing change, on occasion, is to sprinkle grated cheese on top with the bread crumbs.,, SWISS SPINACH.— Cook and thoi-oughly drain the spinach. Chop fine and mix with two whole eggs and the yolks of two or three others, according to the amount of spinach cooked; one or two milk rolls soaked in milk until soft, a little stock or gravy to moisten and salt, pepper and nutmeg to season. Stir over the fire until the mixture has thickened and is very hot, then having buttered a casserole or any, baking di^h that can be sent to the table, sprinkle the bottom with fine bread Crumbs and pile the spinach that has been cooled and beaten up with the whites' of three or fotir eggs whisked stiff. Bake three-quarters of an hbiir and serve with a good gravy or sauce mou'sseline. This dish is so hearty that it can be served alone instead of iheat. Son.etimes, a grating of cheese is added just befoi-e it goes into the oven. SUMMER SQUASH. — These are of two varieties, the yellow crook neck and the round white. In selecting them make sure the skin can be pierced easily. When young and tender they may be cooked without paring, but if hard they must be peeled, and much of the flavor and body are lost. Remove the stem and blossom end, cut in pieces and slip in a coarse cheesecloth bag. Cook in boiling salted water until tender. Take out of the bag and drain, put unopened into the colander, then with a potato masher press. This extracts all the juice. Open the bag, finish the mashing with a silver fork, season with salt, pepper and butter and serve .very hot. Or follow the Southern custom of boiling directly in the salted water until tender, then drain through a cheesecloth bag in the colander. After the juice is all removed put the pulp through a colander and return to the stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter, one- half cup of cream and salt and pepper to season. Place on the back of the stove where the squash will not burn and simmer an hour or more until the water has evaporated and the squash is dry and creamy. WINTER SQUASH. — Wash, dry and cut in pieces, using a can opener to cut the shell. The pieces should be about three inches square.; 78 VEGETABLES Take out the seeds, brush the inside of each piece with butter, place in a baking pan and bake in a medium hot oven until tender. Serve on the shells, brushing again with melted butter and seasoning with salt and pepper. Another way is to peel the squash, remove the seeds and cut in small pieces. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, allowing the water to dry off. Mash well, season with salt, pepper and butter and mound on a hot dish. TOMATO PASTE. — To make the paste to use in seasoning sauces, soups or with macaroni, peel and slice tomatoes, then cook in a porce- lain kettle until a soft pulp. Rub through a sieve and return to the kettle, which should have been washed and rubbed inside with a clove of garlic. For each peck of tomatoes allow a sweet red pepper minced fine, discarding the seeds, a rounded tablespoonful of salt and teaspoon- ful of white pepper. Set on the back of the range or in the oven, pro- tecting the bottom of the pan from scorch by an asbestos mat, and simmer gently until a thick pulp. Then spread on shallow plates or put in a cool oven or in the sun until dried to a stiff but flexible paste. Pack in glass cans or parafifine paper in tin boxes and keep where it will be dry and cool. When ready to use soften an inch or two of the paste in hot water. STUFFED TOMATOES.— The preliminary treatment of tomatoes to be stuffed is all the same, but the fillings are legion. Select tomatoes of firm texture and equal size. Cut a cap from each and with a spoon handle or vegetable scoop remove the seeds and as much of the soft pulp as you desire. Turn upside down for a few moments to drain off super- fluous juice, then season the inside of the cups with salt and pepper. The stuffing may be widely varied to suit individual taste and materials on hand — it may be simply well seasoned bread crumbs, with plenty of butter, minced parsley and' egg to bind; the tomato pulp that has been removed, mixed with minced onion; bread crumbs and seasonings; cooked rice seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and a little curry; creamed onions with bread crumbs; Parmesan cheese and bread crumbi^ a cream of filling or a forcemeat of minced ham or sausage. Still other fillings that are popular are oysters with cracker crumbs and seasonings, raw chopped beef well seasoned with onions, salt and pepper, a chicken and mushroom forcemeat, sweetbreads, eggs, or cooked macaroni and cheese. Most fillings need to be cooked before putting in the tomato, as the latter cooks so quickly. The tomatoes may be served on rounds of buttered toast or plain, as preferred. BAKED TOMATOES.— Cut nice, smooth fruit in halves and place skin side down in a buttered dripping pan; season with salt and pepper, put a little bit of butter on each, sprinkle with cracker dust and bake about twenty minutes. Or select smooth, round tomatoes of equal size, pour boiling water over them, skin and cut out the stem end. Roll in cracker dust, then in beaten egg and again in the cracker dust, and VEGETABLES 79 pack in a buttered baking dish that can be sent to the table, as the tomatoes look better if not disturbed. Season with salt and pepper, put a bit of butter on each and bake in a quick oven about twenty min- utes, basting often with melted butter and a little hot water. FRIED TOMATOES.— Both green and ripe tomatoes are excellent fried. For the former, wash, dry, and cut in rather thick slices, without peeling. Cover with boiling water and set back on the range, so the water will keep hot, but not boil, for fifteen minutes or until the to- matoes turn a pale golden color. Drain, dip in flour or fine corn meal, seasoned with salt and pepper, then fry a nice brown in pork or bacon drippings and serve very' hot, arranging in little piles of two or three and putting a piece of butter on each slice as dished. These are a fine accompaniment to lamb chops or veal croquettes. To fry the ripe to- matoes, slice large, firm fruit in medium thick slices, seasoned with salt and pepper, sprinkle plentifully with fine corn meal (as j^nuch as will cling to each side), then fry in smoking hot fat until browned on both sides. Take up carefully with a broad bladed knife or pancake turner and arrange in little piles on a hot platter. Put another tablespoonful of butter or pork drippings in the pan, add an equal amount of flour, stir until frothy, then pour in milk or cream to make the consistency desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper, pour over the tomatoes ■and serve. BROILED TOMATOES.— Cut into half inch slices firm tomatoes (the beefsteak variety is best for broiling) and dust with salt and pepper. Wipe a fine broiler over with olive oil, lay the tomato slices on closely and broil over a clear fire. Some sprinkle the slices with fine cracker dust or bread crumbs before broiling. This is a matter of taste. Serve with plenty of butter on toast or without, as preferred. To devil them, ar- range on a hot chop platter after broiling, and pour over them a sauce made by heating together two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a saltspoonful of mustard, a dash of cayenne, one-half teaspoonful of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. CURRIED TOMATOES. — The green tomatoes are best for this pur- pose, cut into thick slices. Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter and when hot add two tablespoonfuls of fine minced onion. Cook to a golden brown, add one teaspoonful of curry powder, put in the tomatoes and fry on both sides, seasoning with salt and pepper. STEWED TOMATOES. — Scald the tomatoes, then peel and cut in small pieces, discarding the hard portion about the stem. Put into a stewpan and set over the fire. Cook gently about twenty minutes, count- ing from the time it commences to boil. When nearly ready to serve, season, allowing for each quart of tomatoes about one-half tablespoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one generous tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of sugar, if desired. This may be slightly 80 VEGETABLES .thickened with flour stirred smooth in a little cold water or a few powdered cracker crumbs. To make a puree to serve with roast beef, mutton or pork, add to the tomatoes while cooking a few spoonfuls of good gravy, with a little onion, parsley and herbs to season. When the tomatoes are tender, rub through a fine hair sieve, having first taken out the seasoning herbs. Dissolve one tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, add one tablespoonful of flour, and when blended add the tomato pulp and another spoonful of gravy. Serve very hot. BAKED TURNIPS.— Peel, slice thin and cook fifteen minutes in salted water.^ Drain, place in a buttered baking dish and pour over them a cup of good, clear stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of sugar. Bake until tender, basting often. Serve in a hot dish with the pan gravy, which should be slightly thickened, poured over them. TURNIP BALLS.— Wash and peel fine grained turnips, then cut Into balls, using a vegetable scoop. Drop into boiling water, lightly salted, adding also a very little sugar and cook until tender, Ijut not broken. Drain, cover with drawn butter or cream sauce, sprinkle lightly with minced parsley and serve very hot. BOILED TURNIPS.— Peel, slice and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well, mash with a wooden vegetable masher, season |with salt, pepper and butter and serve; or, instead of mashing, chop in rather large pieces, return to the stcwpan, seasoning with plenty of butter, salt and pepper, then add three or four spoonfuls of water or beef stock and cook until the seasonings have been well absorbed. Small turnips may be peeled and boiled whole, then have their centres scooped out and refilled with creamed peas. TURNIPS AU GRATIN.— Peel and cut into cubes. Cover with cold water and cook five minutes, then drain and cover with boiling salted tiwater or white stock and simmer gently until tender. Make a cup of good white sauce, using a tablespoonful each of butter and flour. Melt the butter, add the flour and as soon as blended without browning add a tablespoonful of grated cheese. When it has melted pour in a cup of milk, stirring until smooth and creamy. Season with salt and pepper and pour over the turnips. Put into a well buttered gratin dich, and if too dry add a little more milk. Cover wjth buttered crumbs and brown in a quick oven. FRIED TURNIPS.— Peel, slice and throw into cold water for half an hour. Drain, then put into boiling salted water and cook until a fork can pierce them, but not until broken. Drain, and when cold pat dry on a soft towel. Dip in cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again. Lay on the ice for an hour to harden, then fry in olive oil or butter until it is a light brown. ^^-\ TEAL, WIDGEONS, and other small ducks. S^*., PREPARATION necessary before cooking teal, widgeons, etc., is to singe, draw, and if intended for roasting, truss the required number of birds, cut off heads and feet and wipe with a damp cloth. Put a tablespoonful of butter and sprink- ling of salt and pepper inside each bird, lay in a dripping pan with a peeled onion, then roast in a very hot oven for fifteen or twenty min- utes, basting every few minutes, using more butter or olive oil if required. Make a sauce by browning lightly in a tablespoonful butter an onion chopped fine. Add a tablespoonful of flour and brown also, then a cup each of port wine and hot water, with salt, pepper and a tiny bit of nutmeg to season. Stir the sauce until it boils, then pour over the birds. If preferred the ducks may be split down the back without dividing, browned in a brisk oven for ten or fifteen minutes, then placed on a gridiron, flesh side next the fire, and broiled five minutes. Make a good browned gravy, place the birds on slices of toast, garnish with slices of beef and watercress and serve with red currant jelly and orange salad. They may be also broiled and served on toast, spread with maitre d'hotel butter. BROILED REEDBIRDS.— Dress the birds without splitting, tuck an oyster in each one, broil quickly over a clear fire about five minutes, season and serve at once on slices of well buttered toast. They may also be fried in smoking hot fat, in which case they are split down the back, seasoned and rolled in corn meal or sifted crumbs before frying, or they may be roasted with thin slices of bacon skewered on each little breast, and four birds arranged on a skewer. Roast seven minutes in a hot oven. BAKED WILD GOOSE. — Pluck, draw and singe a wild goose, then soak in salt and water for twelve hours before cooking. If you have any doubts about its age, cut up an onion, put in the inside, sew up, 81 82 GAME plunge into boiling water, then set back on the stove where it will simply simmer for an hour. Take out, remove the onion, which will have absorbed much of the strong wild taste, then stuff the bird with a plain bread stuffing or one made of mashed potatoes with chopped celery, onion and seasonings to taste. Sew up the bird, truss and put in a baking dish. If the goose is not fat enough to baste with its own drippings, lay strips of fat salt pork over the breast and tie in place. Put a little water in the pan, well seasoned with salt and pepper, and baste the bird frequently until done. The baking should be in a moderate oven and the bird should be frequently turned so as to brown evenly on all sides. Serve with giblet gravy and apple sauce. WILD DUCKS. — While there are more than twenty varieties of the wild duck the cooking is about the same. Ducks should be roasted or broiled, as a general thing, but always served rare. Twenty minutes in a very hot oven will cook them enough to suit the average masculine taste, but women as a rule prefer them to be cooked five or ten minutes longer. Like venison and other wild game, they must not be washed, but simply wiped with a damp cloth. Some culinary authorities advise stuffing wild duck with celery to improve the flavor, but if they have come from good feeding grounds all they require is to be cooked as simply and quickly as possible. With canvasback, redhead or mallard it is like painting the lily to attempt to improve the flavor. If they are to be broiled, split through the back ■without detaching the pieces and flatten with a rolling pin. Sprinkle inside with salt and pepper and lay on a dish while you rub them over with olive oil inside and out. Dust sparingly with flour, then broil, flesh side first, over a clear fire or under the gas flame. Turn and broil the back. A good plan with a gas range is to broil the inside until brown, then set the rack in the roasting pan in regular oven to finish. Dress on a hot dish, spread with maitre d'hotel butter and decorate with watercress. The proper concomitants for duck broiled or roasted are crisp celery, |fried hominy, Baltimore apple bread and currant jelly, black or red. In roasting sprinkle with salt, set in a brisk oven and cook eighteen or ^(wenty minutes. Untruss, arrange on a hot dish with two tablespoonfuls of broth to moisten the inside and serve with fried hominy. PLOVER OR DOUGH BIRD.— Until recently the plover, though highly esteemed abroad, was little appreciated in this country, save by sportsmen. Now it is a favorite tidbit with all epicures. As the plover is small, allow one for each person. Pick carefully, singe and draw. Take out the eyes, trim oflE the toes, skin the head and fasten back against the body, as the brain is considered a great delicacy. Season Inside and out with salt and pepper, and brush with olive oil. Cover the breast with a thin slice of bacon, heat a pan, place the plover in it and bake in a piping hot oven from twelve to fifteen minutes. Lift out the birds and place on slices of delicately browned toast. GAME 83 Pour into the pan one-half cup of well flavored white broth, stir with the drippings and pour over the birds and toast. Garnish with watercress and lemon points and serve with a cress salad. HARES.— Hares must always be skinned before cooking, and if intended for roasting must be trussed to give the proper effect. If preferred, all bones may be removed and the body reformed so that it can be easily carved. But this requires a certain amount of dexterity that all amateur cooks do not possess. In dressing the animal be sure to remove the thin muscular membrane extending from the flank over the intestines. It is this that gives the strong flavor that many object to. For broiling split, wipe inside and out with a damp cloth; rub the legs and shoulders with butter or olive oil, then lay in a deep earthen dish with a sliced onion, a few sprigs of thyme and parsley, a bay leaf, a cup of vinegar and one-half cup of water, a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper and let them lay twenty-four hours or even longer to marinate. Keep covered with another dish. When ready to broil, drain, cut deep gashes in the thick part of the back that the heat may penetrate it, rub again with oil or butter and broil over a clear fire, turning often. When thoroughly done, transfer to a hot platter, rub well with butter, season with salt and pepper and garnish with parsley. GROUSE.— Grouse may be split in halves through the back without separating, seasoned with salt and pepper, rubbed over with olive oil and broiled over a brisk fire, then served with a good mushroom sauce. They may be cut in halves lengthwise, skinned, rolled in bread crumbs and oil or melted butter, fried over a moderate fire, turning so as to cook both sides, then served with a rich sauce. They may be larded and baked, stewed, made into a pie, or used in a salmi. The latter is a specially nice way of preparing them. Cut cold roast grouse in pieces for serving. Put into a frying pan one-quarter of a cup of butter, and when hot add one tablespoonful of raw ham chopped fine, a slice of onion and a stalk of celery chopped. Cook until the vege- tables are colored, then add one-quarter of a cup of flour, and when that is browned and frothy three-fourths cup of brown stock or gravy. Season with one-half teaspoonful of salt and a few grains cayenne, cook five minutes, strain, add the grouse and when the meat is thor- oughly heated through arrange on a hot serving dish and set where it will keep warm while the sauce is prepared. Add one-half wineglass of sherry and the thin shaved rind of a half lemon to the gravy in the pan, cook two minutes longer, pour over the grouse and serve with a garnish of fried bread points. POTTED PIGEONS. — Clean the pigeons, tie in shape, then sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour. Place some thin slices of fat salt pork or butter, if preferred, in the bottom of an earthen jar or small porcelain kettle and lay the pigeons on it. Put a few slices of onion on the birds and pour over the whole boiling water. Cover the jar or kettle so that 84 GAME no steam escapes and set in a pot of water where it will simmer steadily for two hours or until the birds are tender. When stewed enough take up on a hot dish, skim the fat from the gravy, thicken with a table- spoonful of butter and flour rubbed to a cream, then add a spoonful of cream and a little lemon peel. Pour the sauce over the birds and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. If desired, the pigeons may be stuffed before jugging. In this case add to their giblets, minced fine, a little shredded beef suet, bread crumbs, parsley and marjoram to sea- son, and one or two eggs to bind. HASSENPFEFFER.— This is the favorite German way of cooking hare or rabbit. After a careful cleaning, being particular not to break the gall bladder or the liver, cut into pieces, making four bits of the backbone from thighs to shoulders. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan and when hot add two tablespoonfuls of chopped bacon, two small carrots scraped and chopped fine, a bay leaf, a couple of cloves, a clove of garlic, with salt and pepper to season. If liked, a few button mushrooms may also be added. Put in the hare and when nicely browned stir in one-half cup of vinegar and water. Cover closely and simmer gently until the meat is tender, adding at the last a cupful of cream. Serve with noodles. ROAST HARE. — ^This may be done in either of two ways. Gash the thick part of the flesh on the back, and if the hare is an old one lard with fine strips of bacon or fat salt pork. Boil the liver, chop, and mix with bread crumbs, a slice of fat salt pork and a good forcemeat, seasoning well with salt, pepper, nutmeg and any preferred herbs. Use the water in which the liver was cooked to moisten, and a beaten egg to bind together. Stuff the body and sew or skewer. Rub with olive oil or butter and roast, basting often until done. Milk is often used in the basting, epicures thinking it to be a great improvement in keeping the flesh juicy. An hour usually suffices for the roasting. A few moments before taking up dredge with flour, then froth with butter. Take up in a hot dish, add to the gravy a table spoonful each of butter and flour rubbed together, a tablespoonful culinary bouquet, the juice of an onion and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Bring to a boil, strain and serve in a boat. Garnish the hare with slices of lemon, dotted with currant jelly and parsley. Another way is to cut the hares in halves, separating the forequarters from the hind. Bone the saddles, but not the legs. Prepare a marinade of white wine vinegar seasoned with a little onion juice, lemon, celery; salt and pepper, and lay the saddles in this bath for twenty-four hours. Take out the pieces, stuff the boned saddles with a good forcemeat, give them a nice rounded shape and tie with tapes to hold firmly. Place in the roasting pan with a pint of broth, having a piece of fat salt pork placed over each saddle, and bake in a hot oven forty-five minutes, basting frequently. Strain the gravy over them when dished for serving and decorate with croutons or noodles. Use the fore- quarters for a stew. GAME 85 PIGEON PIE.— Clean and wipe four pigeons. Split and put in a saucepan with enough good broth to nearly cover. Simmer gently Until tender. Take out and remove some of the larger bones. Cut the hearts and livers into bits. Have ready four hard boiled eggs sliced, butter a deep pudding dish, and fill with alternate layers of the pigeons, eggs and minced hearts and livers. Season with salt and pepper. Make a gravy with one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and one and one-half cupful of the broth. Season with salt and pepper, and pour one-half into the dish. Cover with a layer pf good paste, making an incision in the middle of the crust to allow for the escape of steam and ornament the edges of the pie with braids, leaves or rolls of the crust. Bake for one hour in a moderately hot oven. When nearly done, brush over the top of the pie with the yolk of an egg beaten with a little milk. Serve hot with baked potatoes and the rest of the gravy. HARE PIE. — Skin, joint, and then cut into half joints, saving the blood. For a pair of hares chop fine a pound of veal, one onion and a little parsley, and mix with a pound of sausage, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Soak the pieces of hare in salt water twenty minutes, then stew gently in boiling water to cover until they begin to be tender. Take up the pieces of meat and thicken the gravy, adding salt, pepper and butter to season. Have ready a deep earthen pudding dish, well buttered, and on the bottom put a layer of the hare meat. Over this arrange a layer of the sausage and veal mince, adding, if desired, a layer of sliced hard boiled eggs, with salt and pepper to season. Alter- nate in this way the hare, iriince and seasoning, until all the material is used. Cover the whole with a thin layer of bacon or fat salt pork. Pour in the blood added to the gravy, together with the juice of a half lemon and a cup of Madeira wine. Cover with a good crust and bake an hour in a moderate oven; If it shows signs of browning too quickly cover with paper. PIGEONS. — ^The young pigeons or squabs are best broiled. Split the birds down the back, rub over with salt, pepper and olive oil, or butter — olive oil is better, in that it does not burn so easily— ^sprinkle with cracker dust and broil over a clear fire. Serve on pieces of hot toast, with a crisp slice of bacon laid on each bird. They may also be stuffed and roasted. One way is to fill with a dressing made of seeded Taisins, bread crumbs, salt, pepper and a little cinnamon, with stock to moisten. After stuffing, skewer or tie the birds into shape, rub the outside with butter or olive oil, and dredge with flour or fine crumbs. Put in a baking pan, blanketing each bird with a thin slice of bacon, add a little hot stock or water to the pan and bake in a hot oven, basting ■often. When cooked, place on slices of toast or fried hominy, thicken the gravy with browned flour or season well, darkening with culinary bouquet, and pour over the birds. WOODCOCK. — Woodcock may be broiled whole or filleted, may be served in croustades or as a salmi, or roasted. For broiling, pick out the 86 GAME eyes and skin the heads. Split through the backs without separating the parts, then season with salt and pepper, roll in olive oil and broil over a clear fire with their bills tucked in their breasts. Broil on each side for four or five minutes and serve on delicately browned slices of toast. Spread with maitre d'hotel butter and garnish with crispy slices of bacon. To roast, put a cranberry or two in each body and truss, fastenr ing the legs close to the body. Toast as many slices of bread as you have birds. Lay a slice of toast tinder each bird to catch all the juices, and roast half an hour, basting frequently with butter. Serve on a hot plate, the toast under each bird, and garnish with thin slices of lemon and watercress. SALMI OF WOODCOCK.— Split four woodcocks lengthwise down the back and divide into joints. Bruise the livers and hearts of the birds and put with them in a casserole. Dust over with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, two teaspoonfuls of French mustard and three table- spoonfuls of grated yellow peel of lemon. Moisten with the juice of five lemons and a little white wine and set in the oven until thoroughly heated. Just before serving in the dish in which they are cooked add a teaspoonful olive oil, stir about and serve very hot. PARTRIDGE. — Partridge is a dry meat and needs plenty of butter in whatever way it is cooked. The birds may be halved, seasoned with salt, pepper and rubbed with olive oil, then broiled seven minutes on each side, after which they may be served on slices of fried hominy spread with maitre d'hotel butter, blanketed with crisp slices of broiled bacon and served. They may be roasted for twenty minutes in a hot oven, with thin slices of fat bacon wrapped around them or may be fried in butter, then made into a pie or braised en casserole. For the latter clean carefully and truss neatly. Put into a frying pan with hot butter or chopped fat bacon and brown evenly all over, turning from side to side. When well colored take from the frying pan and place in a casserole that has a tight fitting cover. Have ready a cupful of hot beef broth and a cupful of tomato puree; pour over the birds, sprinkle with a little Spanish red pepper and add a little white wine, or not, as preferred. Cover closely and cook about three-quarters of an hour. When done take outi and lay on slices of hot toast or in croustades; add more butter and seasoning to the sauce, pour over the birds, garnish and serve at once. STEWED VENISON.— Cut the meat into fairly small, square pieces. Put three tablespoonfuls butter in a stewpan and as soon as melted add two tablespoonfuls flour, stirring until well blended. Add two or three tablespoonfuls of bacon cut in small squares, half a dozen small onions, sliced, two cloves of garlic, and the meat seasoned with salt and pepper. Add claret and water in equal quantities to cover, then simmer gently until the meat is tender. Take from the pot, skim the fat off the gravy, remove the garlic and cook until thickened. Add a tablespoonful of GAME 87 culinary bouquet to color, arrange the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it and serve hot. ROAST VENISON.— The loin, saddle, haunch or shoulder of ven- ison may be roasted. The saddle is considered the choicest portion and is highest priced. . Do not wash the meat, but wipe with a damp cloth. For the haunch, place on a meat board and pound all over, using a wooden potato masher or the rolling pin. Several hours before putting in oven lard all over on top with strips of firm fat pork. Then put into an earthen vessel with a marinade made of two cups of vinegar, one cup olive oil, three onions sliced, two sliced carrots, two stalks white celery, cut fine, a little bunch of parsley, two crushed bay leaves, a sprig of thyme and pepper. Turn the haunch several times, so that every portion may be equally well seasoned. When ready to roast, tie in compact shape, removing all the shreds of vegetables that remain attached to the meat. Put a few thin slices larding pork in the bottom of the roasting pan, and having dredged the meat with salt, pepper and flour, lay it on the pan and set in a hot oven. After the first twenty minutes baste every ten minutes. When the roast is a fine brown, reduce the heat of the oven, so that the last part of the roasting may be gentle. Venison should be cooked rare, allowing ten minutes to the pound after the first twenty minutes. A little claret or melted current jelly used in the basting adds greatly to the flavor. Serve piping hot on a hot platter, accompanying it with red or black currant or grape jelly. Have the dinner plates very hot, as venison chills easily. Vegetables that go well with venison are cauliflower, spinach, succotash, white or sweet potatoes, and always a good green salad, with French dressing, not mayonnaise. RICE AND RABBIT STEW.— Put a tablespoonful of fat salt pork, chopped, or pork drippings, into an iron pot, and when hot add a rabbit cut in joints, and fry. When almost brown enough on all sides add two small onions, sliced, and let them brown. Then add two table- spoonfuls of flour and let it color a rich brown. Now add one quart hot soup stock or boiling water, cook for ten minutes, then season with salt, pepper, a bay leaf and a suspicion of cayenne. Push back on the stove and simmer gently, covered closely, for two hours, or until the meat is very tender. Add the juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful butter rubbed smooth with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir well for two or three minutes. Turn the whole on a hot dish, piling it up, and serve with a border of hot boiled rice. A pint of mushrooms added five or ten minutes before taking up makes a delicious addition. BARBECUED SQUIRRELS (Southern Style).— Get two fat squir- rels and have them skinned and drawn. Cut the thin skin on each side of the stomach close to the ribs, then wipe thoroughly with a damp- cloth. Sprinkle with black pepper, but use no salt. Put a layer of fat bacon, sliced, in a roasting pan, lay the squirrels on this bed, and 88 GAME cover closely with more thin slices of bacon. Pour in the pan one-half cup of good broth or hot water, to which a teaspoonful of beef extract has been added, and bake in a moderate oven until the squirrels are tender. Baste every ten minutes. An hour usually suffices for the roasting. Take up the squirrels and keep hot while the gravy "is made ready. Skim the fat from the surface, then put in a tablespoonful of flour. Let this brown, stirring all the time, then add one cup of boiling water, the juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful of chopped pickle, and ten tablespoonfuls of catsup. Cook until smooth and thickened, pour over the squirrels and serve, BRUNSWICK STEW,— This is made from the large Southern gray squirrels. Cut into joints and lay in cold salted water for one-half hour to draw out the blood. Put into a large pot one gallon of water, lightly salted, and bring to a boil. Add the jointed squirrels, one-half dozen potatoes parboiled and sliced, one-half pound of fat salt pork, sliced, a quart of tomatoes peeled and sliced, one pint Lima beans, six ears of corn cut from the cob, or canned corn, and a sliced onion. Cover closely and simmer gently for three hours, stirring occasionally from the bot- tom. Fifteen minutes before serving add one-half cup of butter, beaten .to a cream with a tablespoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of sugar, and pepper to season. Stir until smooth and slightly thickened, then pour into a hot tureen. BROILED VENISON CHOPS AND CUTLETS.— Cut of moderate thickness, remove the bones, beat lightly to flatten, season with salt and pepper, then put into a rather deep dish with good olive oil to cover, and let them stand two or three hours in a cool place to absorb the oil. When ready, drain, place on a greased gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning so that both sides will be equally well done. The broiling will take about twenty minutes. Place on a hot dish, the chops or cutlets overlapping each other, spread with sauce piquant, mixed with currant jelly, and serve. i fi KUC ANCHOVY SAUCE.— Take five anchovies divided into fillets and heat in a mortar with three tablespoonfuls of butter. Put into a small stewpan with a quarter of a cupful of water, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth with a little water. Stir over the fire until it is smooth and thickened, then rub through a coarse hair sieve. BERNAISE SAUCE. — Put two tablespoonfuls tarragon vinegar in a saucepan, then add eight crushed black peppercorns, two chopped shal- lots and a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Cook five or six minutes and set aside to cool. Break six fggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and stir into the cold vinegar, adding at the same time four (tablespoonfuls of butter cut in small pieces. Set the small pan in a larger one of hot water and as it reaches the boiling point stir constantly until very thick. Add a teaspoonful of beef extract dissolved in one- quarter cup of hot water, season the sauce with salt and a little grated nutmeg, and pour over the steak or whatever it is to be served with. BECHAMEL SAUCE.— Put three tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauce- pan and stir until soft. Add three tablespoonfuls of flour, a slice each of carrot and onion, a blade of mace, half a dozen whole peppers, a bay leaf and a sprig of parsley. Stir well into the butter, then add three-quarters of a pint of milk or white stock, as preferred. Simmer on the back of the stove for twenty-five minutes stirring often. Strain, return to the fire, and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Add one- half cup of cream and it is ready to serve. A richer sauce may be made by adding two eggs and one cup of cream. BORDELAISE SAUCE.— The foundation for this sauce, which is served with broiled beefsteak, is a rich brown or Espagnole sauce, well flavored with onions, minced sweet herbs and red or Bordeaux wine, from which it takes its name. If one does not care to use wine, vinegar or lemon juice can be substituted. Add to the hot sauce marrow from the shin bone of beef, which has been merely scalded in boiling salted water, then cut into thin slices or small cubes. Serve very hot, because the marrow chills easily. 89 90 SAUCES CAPER SAUCE.— Make a good drawn butter sauce by melting in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour and mix well. Add one pint of hot water or white stock, a little at a time, and stir rapidly as it thickens. When perfectly smooth add two more tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half teaspoonful of salt and one- half saltspoonful of pepper. This should be perfectly smooth. If it is lumpy, strain. Now, with this for foundation, stir in two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, four tablespoonfuls of large capers and, if desired for fish, two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy. For the boiled mutton Ijhis is not essential. Pickled nasturtium seeds may be used in place of capers. BROWN BUTTER SAUCE.— Place the desired amount of butter in a saucepan and heat until it becomes a rich brown color. Take care, however, that it does not burn. Add a little vinegar or lemon juice and pour over the fish or joint with which it is to be served. Another brown sauce is made by putting in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook until the flour is browned, stirring all the time. Then pour in one cup and a half of boiling water, simmer- ing and stirring until smooth and thickened. A still richer brown sauce is made in this way: — Put two tablespoon- fuls of butter in a pan over the fire, then add one sliced onion, one small carrot, one half of a turnip chopped fine, a bay leaf and sprig of parsley. Cover and simmer fifteen minutes. Then place over the fire jwhere the vegetables will color without burning. Add two tablespoon- fuls of flour, stirring until the flour is well browned. Add gradually two cups of stock, half a dozen peppercorns, three cloves and a blade of mace with salt to season. Cover and simmer twenty minutes, then strain and serve. This sauce may serve as the foundation for the Bor- delaise sauce or may be varied by adding wine, lemon juice or mush- rooms, thus making many different sauces with the same foundation. BREAD SAUCE (For Game and Poultry).- Put into a double boiler two full cups of milk and place over the fire. Add one-quarter of an onion sliced and a cup of finely sifted bread crumbs. Cover and simmer twenty minutes. Remove the onion, add a tablespoonful of butter and season with salt, pepper and a suspicion of mace. Serve hot. CELERY SAUCE (For Boiled Fowl).— Wash a head of celery thor- oughly, cut in pieces and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain. Add enough hot water to that in which the celery was cooked to make a pint in all. Cut the celery in nice small pieces, half an inch in length. Now make a pint of drawn butter sauce, using the pint of water. Add the cooked celery and seasoning and serve. LEMON SAUCE FOR FISH.— Squeeze and strain the juice from a large lemon into a saucepan, then add to it one-quarter of a pound (scant) of butter, one-half saltspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of SAUCES 91 pepper. Beat over the fire until thick and hot, but do not let it boil. When done mix with the beaten yolks of two eggs and serve at once. TOMATO SAUCE.— Add to one cupful of hot stewed and strained tomato one tablespoonful of butter rubbed with a teaspoonful of corn- Starch. Stir until smooth and thickened, add one-half teaspoonful of salt, a few drops onion juice and a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce. If too thick, dilute with a little boiling water. A richer sauce is made by putting a pint can of tomatoes into a saucepan with a bunch of seasoning herbs, salt and pepper to taste; add one-half cup of , water. Put over the fire, cook about three-quarters of an hour, stirring often. Put a tablespoonful and a half of butter in a saucepan over the fire with a scant tablespoonful flour. Add the strained pulp from the to- matoes and a small cup rich broth, graduating the amount to make the sauce the consistency required. SAUCE TARTARE.— This is one of the standbys that no house- keeper liable to the unexpected interruption of guests should be without, it can be used in an emergency for so many different things. It is delicious with fish, cold or hot, broiled or devilled chicken, tongue, beef, cauliflower or potato salad. It is easy to make, the only essen- tials being good materials, everything cold, and the oil added very slowly at first. After that it may be poured in, in larger quantities and frequently. Mix in a small bowl one-half teaspoonful dry mustard, the same amount each powdered sugar and salt, and a quarter teaspoonful cayenne. Add the yolks of two fresh eggs and stir. Measure out a cupful of olive oil and add a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If it begins to thicken too much to stir easily, thin with a little lemon juice, adding oil and lemon alternately until you have used all the oil and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Lastly, beat in two tablespoon- fuls of tarragon or other vinegar. This gives the regular mayonnaise, which should be smooth and thick. Now to make it into sauce tartare, add one teaspoonful finely chopped onion or onion juice, a tablespoonful ,dhopped pickle, capers, olives and parsley, in any proportion desired. You may use simply the sour cucumber pickle or part pickle and olives, capers, etc. This may be kept for a number of days in cold weather by keeping in glass and in a cool place. CIDER SAUCE (For Boiled Ham). — Boil two cupfuls of cider five or six minutes, then add half a dozen peppercorns, two cloves, two tea- spoonfuls minced onion, a tablespoonful of minced celery and a bit of bay leaf. Cook until reduced one-half, then strain. CHESTNUT SAUCE FOR TURKEY.— Take the shells from a pint of large chestnuts. Scald, then remove the inner skins. Break in halves and cook in salted boiling water or stock until very soft. Mash fine in the water in which they were cooked. Mix together one tablespoon- ful of flour, two tablespoonfuls of browned butter, add to the chestnut puree and season to taste with salt and pepper. 92 SAUCES CURRY SAUCE.— Cook a tablespoonful of chopped onion in a tablespoonful of butter, taking care not to let it burn. Mix one table- spoonful of curry powder with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir into the butter. Add gradually a pint of hot milk and stir until smooth. COLD MINT SAUCE.— To make the mint sauce for the lamb, add two tablespoonfuls washed and finely chopped mint, a little white pepper, and a gill of vinegar in which two tablespoonfuls of sugar have been dissolved. Let stand a half hour before serving. If this sauce is pre- ferred hot the vinegar and sugar may be heated to the boiling point and the minced mint stirred in just before serving. CREAM, OR WHITE SAUCE.— This is the foundation for half the sauces used with vegetables. Heat one pint of milk, or half milk and half white stock. Put into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and as soon as melted, without browning, add two heaping tablespoon- fuls of dry fleur. Stir quickly until well blended, then add the hot milk, a little at a time, stirring until smooth and thickened. Be sure all the lumps are rubbed out. Season with one-half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. For fish sauce, boil a slice of onion with the milk, and for oysters add celery salt, lemon juice and cayenne. MUSTARD SAUCE.— Put two tablespoonfuls butter in a saucepan over the fire and heat without browning. Mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour and pour in gradually a pint of hot stock or water, stirring until thickened and perfectly smooth. Add two tablespoonfuls more of butter, cut in small pieces, and salt and pepper to season. Mix in three table- spoonfuls of made English mustard and a little cayenne. For a cold mustard sauce to serve with meats, rub a quarter of a cup of mustard smooth with a tablespoonful of olive oil and a teaspoon- ful each of onion juice, sugar and paprika. When well blended, add enough vinegar to make a paste, beat ten minutes and turn into a close stoppered mustard pot. HORSERADISH SAUCE.— To make a hot sauce to serve with beef mix together four tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, four tablespoon- fuls of powdered cracker crumbs, one-half cup of cream, one teaspoonful each salt, powdered sugar and made mustard, a saltspoonful of pepper and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or vinegar. Heat in a saucepan set in a large pan of hot water. For the cold sauce, cream one-quarter cup of butter, add two table- spoonfuls of grated horseradish, half a teaspoonful tarragon vinegar or a teaspoonful of lemon juice and a tablespoonful of thick cream. Chill on the ice until time to serve. MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER (Cold).— Rub one-quarter of a cup of butter to a cream, add one-half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of minced parsley and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Spread on hot beefsteak. SAUCES 93 To make the hot maitre d'hotel butter, put one-quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan with a half tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little finely powdered thyme and minced onion and salt and pepper to taste. Stand the saucepan by the fire and whip with an egg whisk until it almost reaches the simmering point. Take at once from the fire and serve. DUTCH OR HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.— This is really a warm may- onnaise, using butter instead of olive oil. It is the best sauce for serv- ing with salmon or other boiled fish if you desire it hot. It requires a quarter pound butter, half a lemon, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and a half teaspoonful white pepper. The secret of its successful making is to preserve an even temperature. The sauce should not approach the boiling point, as the eggs would cook and the sauce curdle. Put the eggs in a small saucepan and add the butter gradually, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. It will soon thicken like a mayonnaise. When the butter is all in, add salt and pepper, and lastly the lemon juice, stirring until well mixed. If the sauce becomes too thick add a little stock or hot water. Surround the fish with parsley and slices of lemon and serve the sauce in a bowl. A few sliced cucumbers should be served with fish. CURRANT MINT SAUCE.— Separate one glass currant jelly into pieces, but do not beat. Add two tablespoonfuls mint leaves minced fine and the thin yellow shavings from the rind of one-third of an orange. Sauce Tartare No. 2. — Sauce tartare, by the way, is one of the nicest things a housekeeper can have on hand for ready reference. It is ex- cellent with any kind of fish and is easy to make. Mix in a small bowl one teaspoonful dry mustard, one-half teaspoonful powdered sugar, one- half teaspoonful salt and one-quarter saltspoonful cayenne. Add the yolks of two eggs that have been chilled in the icebox or in cold water and stir with a wooden spoon or silver fork. Measure out- one cupful olive oil (and be sure it is olive oil, not peanut or cottonseed) and begin adding to the yolks a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If the emulsion thickens too much to beat readily, thin with a little lemon juice, then add oil and lemon alternately until you have used all the oil and two tablespoonfuls of the lemon juice. Lastly, beat in two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, tarragon preferred. This gives a regular mayon- naise which should be smooth and thick. Now, to make it into a sauce tartare, add one tablespoonful minced onion and parsley, a tablespoon- ful chopped pickle and olives or capers to suit. This sauce may be put into a glass jar and will keep for several weeks in cold weather. Just before serving add, if desired, a half cupful whipped cream. This if you are going to use the whole measure at once. Sauce Bernaise. — Beat the yolks of five eggs in a saucepan, add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful butter. Stir the eggs over a pan of 94 SAUCES hot water until they begin to thicken, then remove and stir in two more tablespoonfuls butter. Keep stirring until the butter is dissolved. Sea- son the sauce with minced parsley and any other fine herbs you have on hand and pour in a teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. HoUandaise Sauce. — Put the yolks of two eggs into a small saucepan and add, one at a time, small pieces of butter the size of a marble. Keep the eggs, which should be set over a pan of hot water, at an even temperature, for if the water gets too hot it will cook the eggs and spoil the sauce. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon. This will thicken like a mayonnaise. When the butter is all in, and it will take a quarter of a pound, season with salt and pepper, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon, stirring constantly until well mixed. SOUR CREAM SALAD DRESSING NOTHER excellent salad dressing for potatoes or cabbage is made by adding to a small cup thick, sour cream three tablespoonfuls cider or tarragon vinegar, a tea- spoonful each of salt and sugar, a saltspoonful paprika or pinch of cayenne. For a potato salad a tea- spoonful of onion juice or minced onion and a tablespoonful minced parsley will be found an additior). COOKED SALAD DRESSING.— Beat the yolks of two eggs until creamy, then add to them one-half teaspoonful dry mustard and the same quantity salt. Next beat in slowly four tablespoonfuls of melted butter and six tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar. Cook in a double boiler until it thickens. When cold, and just before serving, a cupful of cream, sweet or sour, may be folded in. This is excellent where one does not care for oil and will keep for a long time in a cool place. It will be found specially adapted to lettuce, string beans, asparagus and cauliflower. APPLE AND CELERY SALAD.— Peel and core some tart, well flavored apples, cut into eighths or narrower and then cut across the sections into thin slices. Cut clean, crisp celery into thin crescent shaped slices until you have a quantity equal to the apple. Mix in suiificient mayonnaise to moisten well or use the French dressing if pre- ferred. Arrange in individual portions in lettuce leaves placed cup fashion, dot the top with a teaspoonful of mayonnaise and serve at once. Apple must not stand after peeling, as it discolors. This is often known as a Waldorf salad, whether served in lettuce leaves or in red apple cups. FRENCH DRESSING.— With many people the French dressing is usually hit or miss. There is, however, a set formula that insures having the proportions right every time. Put into a bowl or bottle a half teaspoonful salt and a saltspoonful pepper. Add four tablespoonfuls olive oil, stir with a fork or shake if in a bottle. Add one tablespoonful lemon juice or vinegar, mix thoroughly and pour over the salad. 95 96 SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS MAYONNAISE,— Take a clean, cold bowl and drop into it the yolks of two fresh eggs that have been chilled. Stir lightly with a silver fork, then add one-half teaspoonful each salt, sugar, mustard a:.d a half saltspoonful of cayenne. Mix well, then begin pouring in, a little at a time, pure oil. You will need a cupful or a cupful and a half altogether. Beat steadily until it begins to thicken, then add the oil in larger quan- tities, increasing until you can add a tablespoonful at a time. After a little, exchange the fork for a Dover egg beater, which will do the "work more thoroughly and rapidly. When the dressing is thick and glossy, add two tablespoonfuls lemon juice and the same amount of tarragon vinegar, alternating with the rest of the oil. If you wish to increase the amount of mayonnaise you can whip the whites of the eggs and add them at the last. If you wish to make richer, add a half cup whipped cream. To color mayonnaise red, add a little lobster coral dried and pounded to a powder. If you wish a green mayonnaise add spinach juice or chopped parsley. To make the mayonnaise a sauce (tartare or sauce piquant, as it is variously called) simply add chopped olives, pickks, parsley, capers and onions to the plain mayonnaise. CABBAGE SALAD. — Chop or shave fine half a medium sized head of cabbage that has been left in cold water until crisp, then drain. Season with salt and pepper, then pour over it a dressing made in this way: — Beat the yolks of two eggs, add two tablespoonfuls melted but- ter and beat again. Add two tablespoonfuls thick sour cream, two tablespoonfuls sugar, a sprinkle of mustard and half a cupful of vinegar. Beat until thoroughly mixed, pour over the cabbage and toss lightly until uniformly seasoned. APPLE, NUT AND CELERY SALAD.— For this appetizing salad use a cupful each apple and celery prepared as for the apple and celery salad, then add a half cup walnuts or pecans shredded fine, or, if pre- ferred, butternuts or black walnuts. Chestnuts boiled ten minutes until soft, but not broken, then drained, chilled and sliced make also an approved addition. Season with a French dressing, pile on lettuce leaves and keep in a cool place until ready to serve. If preferred, this may be served in tomato or apple cups. BAKED BEAN SALAD.— Peel and slice fine eight small onions, pour cold water over them and press hard with the hands to remove the strong taste. Drain well and put in the salad bowl with three cups cold baked beans. Toss lightly, add a teaspoonful salt, a half teaspoon- ful pepper, two tablespoonfuls salad oil, a teaspoonful white sugar and a small cup of vinegar. Mix. Garnish with olives, green or the ripe black ones, hard boiled eggs sliced, and lettuce. BEET SALAD. — Cut boiled beets in thin slices, arrange on lettuce leaves, cover with French dressing and serve. Beets may be chopped, instead of sliced, if preferred. A popular combination with beets is celery in equal quantities, while in Germany celery, beets and herring broken in pieces, well mixed with French dressing, are much liked. SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS 97 STRING BEAN SALAD.— Select young, tender beans, cut the strings from both sides, then cut each bean in two lengthwise, then across. Throw in cold water as fast as cut. When ready to cook cover with boiling salted water, cook twenty minutes and drain, throw into cold water ten minutes, then cover again with boiling water, to which two or three table spoonfuls olive oil have been added. Cook fifteen minutes or longer until tender. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot for the first day. Put the beans remaining in the ice box. When ready for the salad, drain free from liquor, arrange on lettuce leaves and cover with French dressing or sauce tartare. OYSTER SALAD. — Parboil one pint oysters. Drain, cut into quar- ters, drain again, and cover with a French dressing. Heap on lettuce leaves or watercresses in individual dishes or in the cleansed oyster shells and serve with French dressing or sauce tartare. Or simmer the oysters in a pint of water to which has been added two slices of lemon, two cloves, a tablespoonful vinegar and a teaspoonful salt. Drain, cool, cut in halves and arrange on lettuce or cress leaves and garnish with sauce tartare. FRUIT SALAD. — This may be made of sliced oranges arranged on lettuce leaves with maraschino cherries as a garnish and a French dress- ing mixed with a clove of garlic; or sliced grapefruit, with all the white membrane removed, then served on lettuce with a French dressing, or of various combinations of fruit or fruit and delicate vegetables, such as bananas and melons cubed; or peaches, sliced, may be used with cherries, ,currants, red or blue plums or strawberries. Pineapple may be added ■to delicate green cucumber, to pears or apples, to seeded grapes or olives. Celery always combines well with fruit. French dressing may be used with fruit or fruit and vegetables, but a simple dressing of sugar and lemon juice is often all that is required for a fruit salad. Fruit salads may be served on lettuce, in delicate green or rosy apples hollowed out, in- pears treated in like fashion, in orange, lemon or grape- fruit cups, in small or large melons, in tomatoes or green peppers. LOBSTER SALAD. — In preparing the lobster, cut the meat in long thin strips, then into dice. Place in an earthenware bowl and season, allowing to one cold boiled lobster four teaspoonfuls of vinegar, two 'tablespoonfuls oil and a little salt and pepper. Add a tablespoonful chopped olives, half a bunch of celery, chopped fine; or dill pickle, if you like to make the change. Mix with mayonnaise and serve on lettuce leaves, with a garnish of mayonnaise and coral from the lobster. If the salad is desired to be specially rich, a half cupful sweet cream whipped to a stiff froth may be added to the lobster just before the salad goes to the table. PEANUT AND BANANA SALAD.— The last new idea came from a Hudson River town, where all sorts of dainty dishes are evolved, the secret of their manufacture being shared among a coterie of friends. 98 SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS The bananas were first laid on the cellar floor until chilled, the ex- planation being that they could not be put in the ice box without im- parting their flavor to everything else in the box. A good mayonnaise, however, was made and put on the ice to get cold. Just before serving the bananas were cut in three or four lengthwise strips, then rolled in peanuts that had been chopped very fine. Two of these strips were allowed to each plate. They were laid on a leaf of crispy lettuce, with a little mound of mayonnaise between them, and more mayonnaise was passed for each one to help himself if he wished. The combination was delightful. CHICKEN SALAD.— It is best to cook a fowl for salad the day before it is to be used. Select a plump one, medium size, with white, firm flesh. Put into a kettle of boiling water, to which you have added a sliced onion, a couple of bay leaves, a stick of celery or a half tea- spoonful celery seed and a slice of carrot. Bring quickly to a boil, then push back on the stove or over the gas simmerer, where the water can be kept just below the hard boiling point until the chicken is tender, but not stringy. This will make the dark meat almost as light as the white. Take the kettle from the fire, but leave the chicken in the broth over night. A short time before serving take all the flesh from the bones, rejecting all skin, fat and gristle. Cut in dice shaped pieces and measure. Take nice white stalks of celery that have been cleaned, scraped and crisped and cut into the same sized pieces as the chicken, allowing enough to make about two-thirds the quantity of the chicken. Toss together, add enough of the broth in which the chicken was cooked to make rather moist, season with salt, pepper and a little lemon juice, then add enough mayonnaise to cover each piece of celery and chicken. Toss lightly again, arrange on crisp white lettuce leaves in the salad bowl or individual salad case, garnish with celery tips and olives and dot with small spoonfuls mayonnaise. Chicken and almond salad is made in the same way as the chicken salad, adding at the last a half cupful almonds, blanched and shredded. GREEN PEPPER and Cream Cheese Salad.— Take a small Neuf- chatel or Philadelphia cream cheese and beat up with a fork, adding enough cream to make rather moist. Have ready several spoonfuls finely chopped or shredded sweet peppers, toss lightly, then mound on lettuce leaves and cover with a French dressing. NASTURTIUM SALAD.— This is a delightfully spicy salad and most decorative for the Sunday or company dinner. Pick a goodly number leaves and blossoms, wash well in cold water and shake dry. Arrange in a shallow glass dish, leave's and flowers forming a border and stems running to the centre of the dish. Take two or three cold boiled potatoes and slice thin. Peel an equal number of tomatoes and slice. Then arrange potatoes and tomatoes in alternate circles, covering the stems of the nasturtiums, and sprinkle with a little fine minced onion and parsley. Dress with French dressing and serve very cold. SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS 99 CLEOPATRA SALAD.— This is made of leftovers. For instance, a foray on the larder might bring to light some cold cooked Lima beans, a dish of corn, a few cold boiled potatoes, some beets and a cupful of green peas. These, lightly mixed in a large bowl, could be given a distinctive taste by sweet red peppers cut into little crimped' ribbons. A goodly number of these added and a French dressing made and turned over, and then the salad dished on individual lettuce leaves, the tender, sweet variety with brown edges, would taste as good as it looks. GREEN PEPPER, Lettuce and Tomato Salad.— Crisp the lettuce leaves by laying in cold water for half an hour. Then shake dry and lay on the ice. Take the sweet green or red peppers, and with a pair of scissors cut in ribbons lengthwise. Slice the tomatoes. Arrange the tomatoes on the lettuce leaves and sprinkle the pepper ribbons over all. Dress with mayonnaise or French dressing. GREEN PEPPERS, Stuffed with Nuts.— If the peppers are large, scrape out the seeds and soft fibre, leaving only the shells.^ Put into cold salted water and leave a day or two before using. If the peppers are very small, they need only stand in salted water over night. Open carefully so as not to break the pretty stem ends. Chop fine some of the old fashioned butternuts or walnuts, salt lightly and fill the pepper cases. These are better prepared the day before using. Dress with a French dressing or serve simply with salt. STUFFED PEPPER SALAD.— Remove tops and seeds from small sweet peppers and throw into cold salted water for an hour or longer. Chop tender white celery in bits, mixing with a few leaves watercress and a tiny bit of grated onion. Let this stand ten minutes, then drain and wipe the peppers. Fill with the mixture and serve on lettuce leaves with an abundant supply of French dressing. POTATO, TOMATO AND GREEN PEPPER SALAD,— Pare and slice potatoes that have been cooked with their jackets on. Wash and remove the seeds from one green pepper, then cut in narrow shreds with a pair of scissors. Toss potatoes and peppers lightly together, season with salt and pepper and dress with French dressing. Pile lightly in the centre of a salad bowl and surround with a circle of thinly sliced tomatoes, also marinated. If preferred, the salad may be ar- ranged on individual plates. "~ CODFISH SALAD — Shred ^a pound of old fashioned salt codfish, tearing in narrow strips. Soak over night in cold water. The next morning squeeze out the water, put in a saucepan, cover with cold water and simmer just twenty minutes from the time it commences to boil. It must not boil hard or it will toughen. Drain, squeeze out the water, separate the pieces and put in a salad bowl with an equal quantity cold boiled potatoes, sliced, a chopped pickle, one hard boiled egg, chopped, and, if you have it, a half cupful celery, diced. Ar- range on lettuce leaves and mask with a boiled dressing. 100 SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS POTATO SALAD.— The best potato salad is made from waxy yel- low potatoes, cooked with their jackets on, then peeled, cut up while still warm and dressed before they become cold. Put the potatoes into a salad bowl, then pour over them a little hot water, or, better still, a little hot broth from the soup kettle. Season at once with salt, pepper, and for every spoonful vinegar use four spoonfuls olive oil. Add as you like chopped onion, parsley, chives or celery, toss without break- ing the potatoes, then set in the ice box to chill. When ready to serve put into individual lettuce leaves or a salad bowl lined with lettuce, and on top put a spoonful of boiled dressing as a garnish. SWEETBREAD SALAD.— It matters not what form your sweet- breads are to take at the time of serving, the preliminary preparation is just the same. Just as soon as they come from the butcher's drop into cold water and leave them there for an hour or two, changing the water occasionally until they look, quite white. Then throw into boiling salted water, to which a slice of onion, a sprig of celery and a bay leaf has been added. Cover and simmer gently half an hour, lift out and throw again into cold water. As soon as cold cut away all the windpipes and membrane, pick apart and set away until ready to prepare in any way desired. For a salad cut in small pieces, season with salt and paprika, mix with an equal quantity of crisp cut celery or a cup of chopped almonds, and a good stiff mayonnaise. Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves, arrange the salad mixture over them and garnish with sliced lemon, pitted olives, finely chopped parsley or mushrooms chopped alternately with the parsley. SHRIMP SALAD. — This may be made from the fresh or canned fish. Marinate with salt, pepper and lemon juice, mix with mayonnaise and serve on lettuce leaves; or make an unsweetened jelly of gelatine and lemon juice, then, while still liquid, wet individual moulds and pour a little jelly into the bottom of each. Put in several shrimps, and when the jelly begins to set pour on more to cover. Then set aside in a cold place to harden. When ready to serve, turn the moulds out on lettuce leaves, cover with mayonnaise and garnish with two or three shrimps. SPANISH COLD SLAW.— Take a half dozen good sized tomatoes, pour boiling water over them, then rub off the skin. Take out as many seeds as possible, squeeze out the water and put in the chopping bowl. Add one white onion, a clove of garlic, two small green Chili peppers and one cucumber, and chop all fine. Season with salt, pepper, a bit of sugar, a few grains of cayenne and a half cup of vinegar. Heat together, cool, pour over the tomatoes and set on ice. When ready to serve arrange on crisp lettuce leaves. WALNUT SALAD.— Crack English walnuts or hickory nuts and remove the meats in perfect halves. Combine with an equal quantity of crisp white celery, cut in small pieces, cover with French dressing or mayonnaise and arrange on lettuce leaves. Tart apples, cored, pared SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS 101 and cut into cubes, may be used in place of the celery, or the combina- tion may be with cream cheese, tomatoes, oranges, potatoes or grape- fruit. IRISH MOSS SALAD.— Wash some of the moss well in hot water, place in a mould or glass dish, then cover with hot lemon juice. In a couple of hours the moss will have dissolved and coagulated into a solid jelly, which should then be set upon the ice to chill and harden. Ar- range on a salad dish a few crisp leaves of lettuce, cut the moss into cubes and arrange in the centre of the leaves, then arrange about them a tart apple peeled and chopped, and put around the fruit the same amount of chopped celery. Cover with mayonnaise. A few nut meats may be added to the salad if desired. SPINACH SALAD. — Look the spinach over carefully, wash through three or four waters and cook until tender with the tiniest bit of water. When done, drain well, chop fine and season with melted butter and salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mould in small cups. When cold and formed turn out on lettuce leaves, garnish with slices of lemon and hstrd boiled eggs, and dress with mayonnaise. If desired, pickled beets or Spanish red peppers may be used as garnishings in place of the egg. EGG SALAD. — ^While this is a little too hearty for a dinner salad, it is just the thing for the Sunday night supper. Boil the eggs hard, remove the shells, cut in halves crosswise or lengthwise, and take out the yolks. Mash the yolks, using a silver fork; then season with minced chow chow, with a little of the mustard sauce from the bottle, a little melted butter, salt and pepper, and, if desired, minced olives. Return to the whites of egg, arrange on a bed of lettuce or cress, dress with French dressing or mayonnaise. If no olives have been used in the filling of the eggs, a few olives or pimolas scattered over the salad add to its decoration. ENGLISH WALNUT SALAD.— Crack twenty-four English wal- nuts, remove the meats carefully, put in a saucepan and cover with stock, adding a slice of onion and a bay leaf, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Take out, cool, line a salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves and sprinkle over them a handful of chopped watercress or nasturtium leaves and twelve pickled oysters or oysters or clams parboiled and marinated. Over this put the nuts, cover with French dressing, chill and serve. WATER LILY SALAD (For Easter or Palm Sunday).— While this looks almost too pretty to eat, it tastes as good as it looks. Cut the whites of hard boiled eggs into pointed petal-like strips. Keep out a couple of yolks, but mash the rest. Mix with mayonnaise and fill the calyx of the arranged petals with the mixture. Put the remaining yolks through a ricer or fine sieve, dropping over the petals to give the appearance of pollen. Cut lettuce leaves in fine points to simulate the outer green. This is most appropriately served on a low glass dish or small individual dishes to represent water. LEMON JUMBLES.— Cream together one-half pound each butter and sugar. Add two well beaten eggs, three-fourths pound flour, the juice of two lemons and the grated rind of one. Roll very thin, cut in circles, then stamp out the centres, sprinkle with coarse granulated sugar and bake in a quick oven. CINNAMON JUMBLES.— Mix as for the lemon jumbles, omitting the lemon and adding two tablespoonfuls cinnamon. To make the cakes, roll lightly between the hands a small piece of the dough, join the two ends, making a ring, lay in the bake pan, sprinkle with sugar and bake in a hot oven. SUGAR COOKIES.— Cream together one-half cup of butter and a cup and a half sugar. Add two \irell beaten eggs, one-half cup milk and one teaspoonful baking powder sifted with three cups flour. Roll rather thin and bake in a quick oven. COUSIN JESSIE'S MOLASSES COOKIES.— Measure one cup shortening, lard and butter, or butter and drippings mixed, and soften in the mixing bowl set in the oven. Add to the softened shortening a cup and a third of molasses, one cup brown sugar, one cup sour milk and a tablespoonful vinegar. Beat in one heaping tablespoonful soda. When the mixture stops "purring" add one beaten egg, a tablespoonful each of ginger and cinnamon, with sifted flour to make a soft dough. Take off a portion of the dough with the mixing spoon and lay on the moulding board that has been dredged with flour. Roll out lightly with floured pin, leaving the dough about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut the cookies, lift carefully with a spatula or pan turner, and place in the dripping pan. Use as many tins as your oven will accommodate at once, so as not to waste the heat. Bake in a quick oven. As fast as done, take out the pans, lift out the cookies with the pancake turner and lay carefully on sheets of brown manila paper. If laid directly on soft wood they absorb the odor. When cold pack in jars. FOR THE COOKY JAR.— Varied and wonderful indeed are the products of the great cracker factories, turning out tons daily of fancy 102 COOKIES 108 biscuits, crackers, wafers, buns and cakes of every sort, borrowing dis- tinction by prefixing the name of grandmother, mother or aunt to special brands. Yet attractive as these trade cakes are in appearance and elab- orate boxing, they lack something which the old fashioned cookies made by the good hands of mother or aunt possessed., Tiresome work it is to cut out cookies, one at a time, after watching the great rollers and cutters in the cracker factories turning their masses of shapeless dough into cakes of all sorts with astounding precision and despatch, yet for the housekeeper who can give the time to their baking home made cookies will always receive the preference, and here are some true and tried recipes for their making. COCOANUT COOKIES.— Beat to a cream one cup butter and two cups sugar. Add two beaten eggs, one grated cocoanut, two tea- spoonfuls baking powder and iiour enough to roll thin. Bake in a quick oven, but do not brown. SELF RAISING FLOUR GINGER SNAPS.— Heat a cup of molasses to the boiling point and pour over one-half cup shortening. Add one level tablespoonful ginger sifted with three and a quarter cups self raising flour, then chill thoroughly. Work with a quarter of the mixture at a time, keeping the rest in the ice box. Roll thin, cut with a small round cutter, and bake in a quick oven. AUNT IDA'S HERMITS.— Mix together two cups sugar, one cup shortening, one cup molasses, two well beaten eggs, two level teaspoon- fuls soda dissolved in one cup warm water, six cups flour, one cup fruit (English currants, seeded raisins or chopped prunes), two teaspoonfuls cinnamon and one of cloves. Mix soft and cut with cooky cutter. Bake in a moderate oven. AUNT COE'S WORCESTER GINGER SNAPS.— Boil one pint of molasses, then cool to lukewarm. Beat into it at this stage one beaten egg, add a teacupful butter and lard, mixed and melted. Put in two tablespoonfuls ginger and a teaspoonful soda dissolved in a tea- spoonful of warm water, and flour to roll thin. Bake quickly and take carefully from the pans. COOKIES FOR CHILDREN. — Beat to a cream one cup butter and two cups sugar. Add a teaspoonful soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of milk, nutmeg or vanilla to flavor and flour to roll. Sift granulated sugar on top and bake. JUMBLES. — Cream together one-half pound butter and one pound sugar. Add two well beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls brandy and a poimd of flour and beat together. A little caraway seed may be put in, if desired. Roll out rather thick, cut in large circles, then with a smaller cutter take out the centre, leaving a ring. Roll in sugar and cinnamon and bake in a slow oven. 104 COOKIES SAND TARTS.— Rub together half a pound of butter and a pound sugar. Add three beaten eggs, leaving out the white of one. Make a stiff dough with a pound of fiour, roll out and cut into rounds or squares. Put into pans, brush the surface of the tarts with the beaten white of the egg left out for that purpose, lay split blanched almonds on top, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and bake in a quick oven. CHOCOLATE COOKIES.— Cream together a half cup butter and a tablespoonful lard or drippings. Beat in gradually one cup sugar, a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful cinnamon and two ounces unsweetened choc- olate, melted. Add a scant teaspoonful soda dissolved in two table- spoonfuls milk, one well beaten egg and two and a half level cups of flour. Roll thin, cut in rounds and bake in a quick oven. PASTRY. HE delicacy of pie crust depends not alone upon the amount of shortening used, but upon the light touch with which the pastry is handled and the proper proportion of water employed in the mixing. Pastry flour made by the old proc- ess of grinding is usually considered best for pie crust, but any good flour will do. For the shortening, butter and lard, half and half, is best, though clarified drippings of beef, chicken or pork may be utilized. The plates on which the pies are to be baked are preferably tin or granite, as earthenware soaks grease in the course of time. To make a plain pie crust allow for each pie one heaping cup sifted flour, a scant half cup shortening and enough cold water to mix stiff. Have all the utensils and ingredients cold. Sift to- gether flour, salt and baking powder, then put in the lard or rub in with the tips of the fingers until the flour feels granular. Add cold water, a little at a time, to mix to a stiff dough. Sprinkle a little flour on the moulding board and toss the ball of paste on it. Pat it deftly into shape and, having floured the rolling pin, roll out lightly forward, but always lightly. When rolled into a rectangular sheet, put a few dabs of butter over it at intervals, dust a little flour over the buttered dough, roll up, pat into shape and again roll out. Divide in the middle and stand one piece aside while the other is rolled out about the size of the pie tin. Experience soon teaches one how to gauge this almost exactly. Fold over, lift up and, having dredged the pie tin with a little flour, put on the tin. Unfold and press around the rim, taking care that all the air bubbles get out, otherwise the undercrust will puff up into the filling. Now put in the filling, roll out the top crust, fold over once in the middle and cut or prick a few openings to allow the steam to escape. Cover the pie, shoving up with the hands around the edge, so as to give the crust plenty of fulness. Brush the edges of the crust with a little cold water, so that they will stick closely together and J)revent the juice running out. 105 106 PASTRY Old fashioned housewives still use a fork to pinch the edges together, but the crust will be lighter and better if simply pressed away from the edge of the pan, leaving it firm and uniform on the edge. Bake in a moderate oven. DEEP APPLE PIE.— Invert in the centre of a deep granite or earthenware dish a teacup, then fill the remaining space with tart apples, peeled, cored and quartered. Sprinkle with a half cup of sugar mixed with a teaspoonful cinnamon or a saltspoonful of allspice and nutmeg; or in place of the ordinary sugar use maple sugar or molasses and sugar, half and half. Roll a strip of paste half an inch wide, wet the edge of the dish, put the paste on the edge, then cover with a crust a little larger than the dish, with the fulness thrown back in the centre. Press the cover to the rim and bake until the apples are tender. PUFF PASTE.— The proportions of this are a half pound best but- ter, a pint flour, a. half teaspoonful salt and about a half cup ice water, dependent upon the flour. Wash the butter in ice cold water, pat into a thin piece, wrap in a napkin and lay on the ice to get thoroughly hard and chiHed. Mix the salt with the flour, then rub in a quarter of the but- ter and mix stiff with ice water. Toss on a well floured board and roll into a rectangular sheet. Cut half the remaining butter in thin shavings and lay in the middle of the paste. Fold over one side of the paste, then tlys other, then double together. Round into a flat cake with the rolling pin until half an inch thick, then spread on the other half of the butter. Fold as before, pound and roll out into a long strip, keeping the edges even and of uniform thickness. When all the butter has been rolled in, fold the paste, pat and roll out as many times as you desire. Four times is usually considered a good number, then roll in a napkin and put on the ice to harden. When ready to use, roll out a portion of the paste about a third of an inch thick, then roll up and cut from the end of the roll. Turn each piece on the side so that the folds show the rings, pat out flat and roll a little larger than the plate. This crust should be used for an upper crust only or for a rim or patties. It is too rich to be used for an under crust. ENGLISH APPLE TART,— Peel and core tart apples, put into a large saucepan, cover with boiling water, stew gently until the apples are tender but unbroken. Line the edges of a deep pie tin with crust, then fill the centre of the dish with apples, dropping into the centre of each a spoonful of orange marmalade. Cover the top of the dish with strips of pastry arranged lattice fashion and bake quickly until brown. Serve hot, RUSSIAN APPLE PIE.— Peel and core eight large tart apples, put into a baking dish with a little water and bake until tender. Press through a sieve into a large bowl and set aside to cool and chill. Add three-quarters of a cup of sugar and the whites of four or five eggs PASTRY 107 beaten stiff, with a few grains of salt and a little lemon juice and grated peel to season. Beat this mixture until very white and light, turn into a buttered dish and bake about twenty minutes. Serve hot with sugar and cream. DEEP APPLE PIE (With Cream Cheese).— Bake a nice deep apple pie about three-quarters of an hour before dinner. Have a small cream cheese pressed through a ricer and mixed with a cup of Whipped cream and a little salt. Press through a pastiyr tube or tin funnel on top of the pie in a pattern, and serve warm for dessert. The cheese and cream combination may also be used on a two crust apple pie. LEMON CUSTARD PIE.— A lemon custard pie that is always appreciated is made in this wise. The crust is baked first, as an open shell, perforating it in several places with a fork before putting in the oven, to avoid blistering. For the filling, cream together one-half cup- ful of sugar and butter the size of a walnut. Add the juice of half a lemon and one cupful of boiling water, and, lastly, the beaten yolks of three eggs. Grate in a little of the rind and cook in a double boiler until thick. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and then stir in after the filling is taken from the fire. Pour all in the open crust already baked and set in the oven for a few moments. If a meringue is desired, whip the whites to a froth, add two tablespoonfuls pulverized sugar, spread over the top, and dry slowly in the oven until an inch thick and a golden brown. * A lemon pie that is absolutely reliable is made in this way: — Have ready the pastry shell. Dissolve one tablespoonful of cornstarch in a little cold water. Pour over it a teacupful of boiling water, stirring all the time until clear and free from lumps. Add one tablespoonful of but- ter and a small cupful of sugar, and cook a few moments longer. Set on back of range and add the beaten yolks of two eggs and the juice and grated yellow rind of one lemon. Stir until well blended and pour in crust. Set in' the oven a few moments with the door left open, while preparing the meringue made from the whites of the eggs beaten stiff and two scant tablespoonfuls sugar. Spread evenly over the pie and set on the grate of the oven to rise slowly and brown. BLACKBERRY PIE. — Line a pie plate with good clrust. Allow three cups berries and three-fourths cup sugar to each pie. Sprinkle lightly with flour, then put on top crust or a latticed crust. Bake in a rather slow and steady oven. Gooseberry Tart. — Fill a deep baking dish with alternate layers of fruit, sugar and sifted flour. Coyer with rich pie crust in ornamental design. CHOCOLATE PIE. — Bake a crust the same as for a cocoanut pie, then fill with this mixture: — Put one cup of milk with a pinch of salt and 108 PASTRY a square and a half grated chocolate into the double boiler. When hot stir in two level tablespoonfuls of flour moistened to a paste with a little cold milk. Cook, stirring constantly until smooth and thickened, then cook just ten minutes longer. Mix the yolks of two eggs with five tablespoonfuls sugar and pour the hot mixture over them, stirring well. Return to the double boiler and cook two minutes, stirring constantly. Cool, flavor with vanilla and cinnamon, put into the crust, bake ten min- utes, then, after cooling slightly, cover with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs whipped stiff with two tablespoonfuls sugar. Set in a coolish oven to puff and color. CHERRY PIE. — ^While sour cherries make far and away the best pie, the sweet cherries are not to be despised. They are usually pitted, though many persons like the flavor imparted by the stones. This is, therefore, a matter of option. A deep tin should be used for cherry pie, the deeper the better. Many housewives complain that their cherry pies run over in the oven, and much of the juice is lost. To prevent this waste of nectar, a strip of cotton cloth may be wet and pressed about the rim after the pie is ready to go in the oven, or a paper funnel may be inserted in the opening in the centre of the top crust to allow for the escape, of steam, thus relieving the crust from pressure. When the under crust is spread on the plate, sprinkle lightly with flour or brush over with white of egg. This last the Germans always do in making fruit pies. Pack full of the cherries sweetened to taste, dredge a little flour over the top, then put on the upper crust and seal. PEACH PIE CUSTARD.— Line a deep pie tin with plain paste and bake. Pare and quarter four ripe peaches. Put one and one-fourth cups of milk in a double boiler, and when it is scalding hot add two well beaten egg yolks, to which have been added four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a pinch of salt. Stir constantly until it thickens, but do not boil. Take from the fire, add one-half teaspoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of vanilla and stir thoroughly. Spread the fruit in a pie shell, pour cus- tard over, and cover with a meringue made of the whites "of three eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sugar, spread roughly, and set in a slow oven to yellow slightly. Serve very cold. GREEN TOMATO MOCK MINCE PIE.— While this compound is rather unusual, it is extremely "tasty" and not expensive. To four quarts green tomatoes, chopped fine, allow three pounds brown sugar, the juice of two lemons and their yellow rind, grated, a tablespoonful each cinnamon, allspice and salt, half a teaspoonful cloves and a table- spoonful grated nutmeg. Put into a porcelain lined kettle and simmer gently until reduced one-half in bulk. Now add two pounds and a half seeded raisins, or part raisins and part currants or chopped prunes, and a cup boiled cider. Then cook an hour or two longer until thick. DATE PIE. — Simmer slowly one pound of dates in enough milk to cover. Sift them through a sieve to free from the stones; add one- PASTRY 109 half cup of sugar, the yolks of three eggs, a little cinnamon and a pint of boiled milk. Bake in deep lined plates, as for custard pie. Whip the whites of the eggs and frost, having flavored the frosting slightly with vanilla. Brown -nicely. This is sufficient for two pies. SCOTCH APPLE TART.— Peel and core a half dozen tart apples and place in a crock in a slow oven, adding neither water nor sugar. When tender mix in Sultana rasiins, allowing a quarter of a pound to each pound of apples. Turn into a deep baking dish, sprinkle with sugar and grated lemon; cover with a top crust, pricking well to allow for the escape of steam, and bake in a quick oven. Serve with milk. COCOANUT PIE.— Put two even tablespoonfuls grated cocoanut in a pint of milk. Add three even tablespoonfuls sugar, the yolks of two well beaten eggs and two even tablespoonfuls cornstarch stirred to a paste with a little cold milk. Add butter the size of a walnut and cook until thickened and smooth. Line a pie plate with crust, prick in several places and bake in a hot oven. Then fill with the cocoanut mixture and spread with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth with two tablespoonfuls sugar. Sprinkle with cocoanut, set in a coolish oven and brown slightly. MINCE PIE. — ^Weigh, after it is chopped, three pounds of lean, tender beef. Add to it one and one-quarter pounds of suet, chopped and freed from strings; six pounds of tart apples, preferably greenings, chopped; six pounds, of sugar, four pounds of seeded raisins, three pounds of currants, thoroughly washed and dried; one-half pound of cit- ron, cut in thin shreds; three pints of sweet cider, one quart of the stock in which the beef was cooked, three pints of cider boiled down thick, three tablespoonfuls of powdered cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of cloves, one teaspoonful each mace, allspice and nutmeg, two tablespoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of white pepper, one pint of molasses, three pints of jelly and as much more juice of preserves or jelly as each housewife may select. Brandy, sherry or rose water may be added at the last, if desired. Chopped prunes are deemed by many an improvement over currants, while candied orange or lemon peel, cherries, a little cold tea or coffee may always be added to advantage. Thi« mincemeat may be scalded or packed in glass or stone jars without that formality, its rich- ness ensuring its keeping. While this quantity would be too much for the dweller in flats, who has scarce room to lay his head, it will be found just about the right amount to last the winter for the average family with normal appetites and a cellar in which such delicacies may be stored. If this mincemeat is scalded do not add the brandy or rose water until after the scalding. ORANGE PIE. — ^Add one rounding tablespoonful of cornstarch, mixed with one cup of cold water, to three-quarters cup of boiling water and cook three minutes. Add a pinch of salt, the grated rind of one and 110 PASTRY one-half oranges, the juice of three oranges, one cup of sugar, and cool. Beat in the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, both well beaten, and pour into a paste lined plate. Bake and cool slightly. Cover with a meringue made from the white of one egg beaten stiff with a level tablespoonful of powdered sugar and set in a cool oven for ten minutes. LEMON MINCEMEAT.— This form of mincemeat will appeal to the family of English extraction. It is a favorite holiday dainty in Eng- land. To make it, grate the yellow rind of a half dozen lemons that have been well scrubbed first, then squeeze out the juice. Put into a deep bowl. Add two pounds each of seeded raisins, currants, sugar and chopped apple, a pound and a half beef suet, chopped fine, and a quarter pound lemon, orange and citron peel, shredded and well mixed. Then add a glass of brandy or white wine and it is ready to put in the crust. ENGLISH LEMON PIE.— Grate the rinds of two large fresh lemons, cover with boiling water (two or three tablespoonfuls) and sim- mer ten minutes. Then pound in a mortar or rub through a colander. Put into a bowl the cooked rinds, a half pound of sugar, the juice of a large lemon, a half pound of butter, the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of five beaten to a froth. Stir all together until smooth and creamy and pour into a plate lined with puff or good plain paste. Bake. When done remove from the oven, cool slightly, then spread with a meringue made from the whites of three eggs beaten stiff with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Set back in the oven, which should have had the door left open to cool it. Let it remain until the meringue puffs up light and colors a golden brown. This usually requires about ten minutes. Too hot a fire does not give the meringue a chance to rise. WHITE RIBBONERS' MINCE PIE.— For those who object to mince pies as usually made, on the score of their being non-temperance, the following excellent recipe is commended: — To three bowls of chopped meat allow one bowl of suet, seven bowls of chopped apples, three bowls of seeded raisins, three bowls of sugar, a half pound of chopped prunes, a quarter pound of shredded citron, a pint of strong coffee, a quart of currant or grape jelly and a tablespoonful each of salt, cinnamon, all- spice and cloves, wifh a teaspoonful each of mace and pepper. Add the liquor in which the meat was boiled with the grated rind and juice of two lemons and a little vinegar to give the necessary tartness. Scald as soon as made and pack in close covered glass jars to prevent fermentation. PUMPKIN PIE. — Select a solid meated, golden, glossy pumpkin, not too large. The smaller ones, flat at the ends, are usually sweetest. Cut into pieces without peeling, rejecting the seeds and inner shreds. Put into a large porcelain lined kettle with about a cupful of boiling water to keep from sticking, cover and set on the back of the stove, where it will cook slowly in its own juice. This will require five or six hours, pref- erably longer, until sweet, tender and nearly dry. Pull off the loose PASTRY 111 skin and rub through a colander. If it seems watery let it drain over night, keeping the juice for brown bread. When ready to bake the pies, measure the pulp and to every five cups allow one teaspoonful of salt, half a grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of mace, two teaspoonfuls of ginger and a large cup of sugar. Beat four eggs and stir into the pump- kin pulp, together with four cups sweet milk and a half cup of cream, if convenient. Beat well and taste to see if sweet enough. Turn into deep pie plates lined with good pastry and bake three-quarters of an hour until a rich golden brown and firm in the centre. Serve with good American cheese. Strawberry Pie.— Line a pie plate with rich paste. Fill with hulled berries sprinkled with sugar. Cut narrow bars of paste with pastry jagger and lay criss-cross over the top of the pie. Bake quickly, serve cold but fresh. Apple Floating Island. — Make a boiled custard of the yolks of three eggs. Beat together two cupfuls of stewed apple sauce and the whites of three eggs. Place this beaten apple on the top of the custard in the form of islands. GERMAN PEACH PIE.— A German pie of peaches, the crust made like a rich baking powder biscuit, furnishes an excellent summer dessert. Make the dough and roll out in sheets to fit a long biscuit tin. It should not be more than half an inch thick. Brush the top with butter and cover with slices of peaches arranged in symmetrical, overlapping rows or halved peaches, rounded side up. Sprinkle generously with sugar, cover with another tin and bake from twenty to thirty minutes. The idea is to cook the fruit, but not reduce it to a pulp.' PEACH PIE WITH MERINGUE.— Pare and quarter six ripe peaches. Blanch and slice the kernels, simmer in water fifteen minutes and strain. Place the peaches in a baking pan, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar to the strained liquid, pour over the fruit, add a few bits of but- ter, cover and bake until soft enough to press through a colander. Line a deep tin with plain paste. Strain the fruit, add three slightly beaten egg yolks and a pinch of salt and bake. Make a meringue of the whites of eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sugar, spread roughly over the pie, sprinkle with shredded blanched almonds, and place in a slow oven to set, but do not yellow. BLACKBERRY FRITTERS.— Make a batter of one pint milk, one egg, one tablespoonful sugar, one teaspoonful baking powder, one cup flour and a half teaspoonful salt. Into this batter stir lightly two cups blackberries and drop the batter by the tablespoonful into a kettle of hot fat. Cook a golden brown and serve with liquid sauce. OPEN PEACH PIE, — Line a rather deep pie plate with a layer of good crust, made in the proportion of one-half cup shortening to one 112 PASTRY cup pastry flour, a saltspoonful of salt and a third or less of a cup of ice water. Bake the crust as for a lemon pie. Fill with fresh peaches, sweetened, and cover thickly with whipped sweetened cream. Some good cooks advise the addition of a little apple marmalade to the peaches, holding that the combination of flavors is pleasing. PEACH PIE (With Vanilla Syrup).— Boil one-half cup of granulated sugar with three tablespoonfuls of water for five minutes; add one tea- spoonful of vanilla and one-half teaspoonful of butter and remove from the fire. Pare and halve iive ripe peaches, set cut side upward, pour the hot syrup over and set aside for thirty minutes. Line a deep pie tin with plain paste and bake. Fill with the prepared fruit, put on some sweetened whipped cream, to which has been added the stiiHy beaten white of one egg, and serve. BLACKBERRY PANDOUGHDY.— Turn a qua^t nice ripe black- berries into a buttered pudding dish and sprinkle over them a half cup sugar. Sift into a bowl a cup flour, a teaspoonful and a half baking powder and a saltspoonful salt. Add a tablespoonful butter and rub together. Mix the yolks of two eggs with a cup of milk, add to the flour with a tablespoonful sugar and mix until smooth. Whip the whites of two eggs to a stiflf froth and stir lightly into the batter. Pour the batter over the berries and bake in a medium hot oven. Serve with liquid or hard sauce, as preferred. RHUBARB PIE. — ^Wash and cut into inch pieces, but do not peel, as the skin gives the pretty pink color and will cook tender. Fill a deep dish with the fruit, sprinkle over it three tablespoonfuls flour or a half cup cracker crumbs, two tablespoonfuls butter and enough sugar to sweeten. Cover with a rich crust and bake half an hour, or until the upper crust is delicately brown. Some cooks prefer to bake the pies without the addition of sugar, raising the upper crust and sweetening after it is done. Less sugar will be required in this way, but it is a little more trouble. If preferred, you may use half russet apples with the rhu- barb, or one-third seeded raisiris chopped with the rhubarb. APPLE FRITTERS.— Pare and core tart apples and cut them in slices about one-third of an inch thick, leaving the round opening in the centre. Dip the slices in fritter batter made of one pint of milk, three eggs, a little salt and a pint of flour. A teaspoonful of baking powder is sometimes mixed with the flour. Beat the eggs well, adding first part of the milk and salt, then the flour and the rest of the milk, alternately. Beat the batter together quickly and add the apples immediately. BANANA CREAM.— Whip half a pint of double cream until stiff and stir into it half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in half a gill of warm water, a little lemon juice and one pound of peeled bananas rubbed PASTRY 118 thiough a hair sieve with two ounces of sugar. Put the mixture into a mould and leave it in a cool place until set. INDIAN APPLE PUDDING.— Peel and core a dozen tart apples. Scald a quart of milk, then add a quart of Indian meal, mixing and cook- ing carefully for several moments. Add a teaspoonful salt, a cupful each molasses and finely chopped suet, then pour over the apples arranged in a buttered dish. Bake a couple of hours. This is a Southern dish commonly known as apple pone. APPLE MERINGUE.— There are two ways of making this. Take two cupfuls of apple sauce and add your favorite combination of spices, and to this put two well beaten eggs. Bake. Finish with a meringue of the whites of two eggs, sugar and flavoring. Another method: — Either tart or sweet apples may be used. Pare and core. Arrange them on a well buttered pudding dish. Fill the openings with sugar, a dot of butter, vanilla, nutmeg or cinnamon. Cover the apples with a plate, baking until tender. Make a custard of two cupfuls of hot milk, four tablespoonfuls of sugar and the yolks of two eggs. Pour over the apples and bake only a few minutes. Next add a meringue of the whites of the eggs. BANANA TRIFLE. — Lay four ounces of macaroons in a deep glass dish; cut a sponge cake into slices and spread these with banana pulp; place them on the macaroons and soak with a little sherry and brandy; pour over the whole a pint of rich custard. Sweeten half a pint of cream to taste, flavor with vanilla and a teaspoonful of brandy, then whip it till stiff; pile on the top of the trifle, and decorate with crystallized fruits and blanched and shredded almonds. BLACKBERRY SLUMP.— Sift together two cups flour, two tea- spoonfuls baking powder and a half teaspoonful salt. Rub into the dry mixture a tablespoonful butter, then add two-thirds cup milk mixed with one beaten egg. Lastly stir in lightly two cups floured berries and pour into a buttered pail or mould. Cover close and steam for two hours with- out allowing the water to stop boiling. Serve hot with milk or sweet sauce. APPLE SLUMP. — Apple slump is another old fashioned dish, but none the less acceptable on account of its antiquity. Pare, core and quarter a dozen tart, juicy apples, turn over them a cupful of boiling water and set where they will begin to cook. Five minutes later add to the apples two cups of molasses and cook five or more minutes, while you prepare a very soft biscuit dough, using for a pint of flour a tea- spoonful of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a half tablespoon- ful of shortening, and milk to stir to a dough that is too soft to roll. Put this over the apples, which should be tender, but not broken, cover the kettle closely and cook twenty-five minutes without lifting the cover. 114 PASTRY Serve with a hot sauce, made by heating to a cream a half cup of butter and one cup of sugar, stirring in just before using a scant cupful of boil- ing milk or water and seasoning to taste. Apple Tapioca Pudding. — Soak one-half pint of tapioca in water for several hours. Peel and core half a dozen apples. In the opening of each one place a teaspoonful of sugar and a small piece of lemon or orange peel. Pour the tapioca over the apples and bake thoroughly. BAKED APPLE SLUMP.— Take a well buttered deep pudding dish and slice into it enough tart, juicy apples to fill. Season with cinnamon and nutmeg. Sweeten plentifully, add a tablespoonful of butter, cut in little bits, and cover with a soft biscuit dough, stirred to a consistency to pour, but not roll. Bake in a hot oven and serve with a hard or foamy sauce as preferred. FAVORITE BLACKBERRY PUDDING.— In a deep buttered pud- ding dish place a thick layer of blackberries slightly sweetened. Over the berries pour a batter composed of one cup milk, two tablespoonfuls butter, one egg, one cup sugar and two cups flour. Bake, turn from the dish, with fruit on top, and serve with sweetened cream or spice sauce. DELMONICO PUDDING.— Put one quart of milk in a double boiler and let come almost to the boiling point. Beat yolks of five eggs light, add six tablespoonfuls sugar and beat again until exceedingly light. Mix three tablespoonfuls cornstarch with a little cold milk. Add to the eggs and sugar, and stir into the hot milk just as it is about to boil. Add a saltspoonful salt, then stir until well thickened. Pour into a dish that can be sent to the table and stand in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes until firm. Remove and spread over the pudding a layer of canned apri- cots or other fruit. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, allowing one tablespoonful pulverized sugar to each egg. Spread lightly over the top and put into a coolish oven to color a golden brown. APPLE SNOW. — To two cupfuls of grated sour apples add five tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar during the grating, and then the whites of two eggs, and beat thoroughly. Arrange the snow in a pud- ding dish, pour around it a custard made of yolks of two eggs, one cupful of hot milk, flavored, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Blackberry Mould. — Stew and mash a quart of berries with two table- spoonfuls water. Stir in a small cup farina and a pinch of salt, and cook an hour in a double boiler. Turn into wet moulds to harden. Turn out when cold and serve with cream. CHOCOLATE PUDDING (Cold).— Put a quart of milk in the double boiler and place over the fire. Mix three tablespoonfuls corn- starch with a little cold milk reserved from the quart, then stir into the PASTRY 115 boiling milk. Stir until smooth and well thickened, then add two eggs, well beaten with a half cup sugar and a saltspoonful salt. Cook ten minutes. Meantime shave two ounces chocolate and put in a small pan with two tablespoonfuls boiling water and four tablespoonfuls sugar. Stir until smooth and glossy, then beat into the hot pudding, which has been taken from the fire. Pour while hot into small cups that have been rinsed out with cold water, or into a large mould. After the pud- ding is cold, set on the ice to chill and harden. At meal time, turn out and serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. If preferred, the eggs may be omitted and another tablespoonful corn- starch used in their place. BLACKBERRY AND APPLE FOOL.— Pick over a pint of blackber- ries and peel, core and slice the same amount of tender, juicy apples. Add the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. Put in a granite saucepan with a cup of sugar and a quarter of a cup of water. Cook gently for about fifteen minutes or until the fruit is soft; then rub all through a fine sieve. See if the pulp is sweet enough. If not, add a little more sugar and a pint of thick boiled custard. Pour into a glass dish. Just before serving whip a half pint cream to a stiff froth; sweeten and flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. Heap this roughly over the to^) of the "fool" and serve very cold. BLUEBERRY PUDDING.— Beat two eggs light and stir into them one cup of milk and sifted flour enough to make a batter as thick as for pancakes. Put into the flour three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Butter a mould and put a layer of the batter in the bottom, then a layer of the blueberries. Alternate the layers until the mould is three-quarters full, cover it closely, and boil one hour. Serve with a rich sauce. CHERRY BUTTER PUDDING.— Beat to a cream a half cupful butter and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Then add, little by little, stirring constantly, four beaten eggs, a quart of flour that has been sifted with three teaspoonfuls baking powder and a half teaspoonful of salt. Add a pint of milk, and lastly a quart of pitted cherries. Boil two hours in a buttered moul4 not allowing the water to stop a moment from its boiling. Serve with hard or cherry sauce. BREAD PUDDING. — Soak one pint of fine crumbs in a pint of warm milk until soft. Add three tablespoonfuls cocoa dissolved in a little water, three well beaten eggs, a half cup granulated sugar, then another pint of milk. Set the pudding dish in a larger pan of hot water and bake one hour. Serve with whipped cream flavored with vanilla, or a sauce made from a scant cupful of sugar, a tablespoonful cornstarch and a cup of water. Cook in a double boiler ten or fifteen minutes, and just before serving put in a tablespoonful butter and a half teaspoonful nut- meg. 116 PASTRY CABINET PUDDING.— Butter a quart mould well with soft butter. Line the bottom with seeded raisins, apricots and citron, cut in fancy- shapes. Cover with slices of stale cake, then add another layer of fruit, and so alternate until within two inches of the top. Scald two cupfuls of milk and pour slowly over three well beaten eggs. Add two table- spoonfuls sugar and a teaspoonful vanilla and pour carefully into the mould. Set in a pan partly filled with cold water and place over the fire until it reaches the boiling point, then cover and set in the oven for an hour. Turn out of the mould and serve with vanilla sauce. DELICATE DUMPLINGS.— Into one pound of raised biscuit dough work one cup of well washed currants and one-fourth of a teaspoonful of spice. Shape into very small balls and steam them twenty minutes. These may be served with any hot liquid sauce made rich with butter and flavored with lemon. CHERRY DUMPLINGS.— Those made like apple dumplings and served with a sauce made of the juice of the fruit are delicious. An old time method is to make a thick batter, using two cupfuls of flour, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls butter, one tablespoonful sugar, two teaspoonfuls baking powder sifted with the flour, one cupful water and one cupful stoned cherries. Drop the mixture by the tablespoonful into boiling salted water. Only a few at a time can go in, as the water must not stop boiling. Cover closely and cook twelve minutes without uncover- ing. Take from the water and serve at once on hot plates. To make the sauce, cream together a cupful powdered sugar and a tablespoonful butter. Add gradually one beaten egg and a half cupful cherry juice, beating constantly. COTTAGE PUDDING.— Beat to a cream a tablespoonful butter and a cupful sugar. Add a half cup milk, one cup and a half flour sifted with a heaping teaspoonful baking powder and the stifily whipped whites of two eggs, and flavor to suit. Beat well and bake in a brick-shaped pan. COCOANUT PUDDING.— Scald a pint of milk, then add to it one- half cup rolled cracker crumbs, three tablespoonfuls cocoanut, the beaten yolks of two eggs and a teaspoonful lemon juice or vanilla. Mix well, then bake half an hour in a buttered mould. When done cover with a meringue made from the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs, two table- spoonfuls sugar and a teaspoonful lemon juice. Let brown and puff in a moderate oven. DELICATE PUDDING. — Put into a double boiler one cup of water and one cup of any fruit juice preferred. Dissolve three tablespoonfuls of cornstarch in a little cold water, stir into the boiling liquid, sweeten to taste, add a pinch of salt and cook until smooth and thick. Beat the whites of the eggs until foamy, stir into the pudding, remove at once PASTRY 117 from the fire and turn into moulds wet in cold water. Set away to chill. Serve cold with a boiled custard sauce made with one pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs and flavoring to taste. GERMAN CHOCOLATE PUDDING.— Beat the yolks of six eggs very light, then add to them one-quarter pound each ground almonds and sugar and grated German sweet chocolate. Lastly put in the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs, turn into a buttered mould and steam forty- five minutes. Serve with whipped cream. CHERRY ROLY POLY.— Sift together two cupfuls flour, two tea- spoonfuls baking powder and a half teaspoonful salt. Work into the mixture a tablespoonful butter, and when it feels "mealy" moisten with milk to a dough that can be formed. Turn on a floured board and shape and pat with the hands into a long, narrow strip. Over this pour enough stoned cherries to cover the surface, leaving an inch uncovered at each edge. Sprinkle with sugar, press down into the dough and dredge with flour. Make the paste into a roll and after pinching the edges together wrap in a floured cloth. Steam for an hour and serve with cherry sauce. FIG PUDDING.— This pudding is a great emergency dessert on an Arizona ranch. You can make quite a bit of it and it will keep in- definitely, steaming a little as needed. Chop fine one pound figs, one pound raisins and one cup suet. Add one teaspoonful cinnamon, one- half teaspoonful cloves, one cup sugar, one cup sweet milk, one-half teaspoonful salt, one pint grated crumbs and three well beaten eggs. Mix well and steam three hours. GREEN GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.— Boil a pint of green goose- berries till soft, and sweeten to taste. When quite cold mix in thor- oughly four well beaten eggs and one ounce of butter. Butter a mould and sprinkle it thickly with equal parts of sugar and fine bread crumbs, then pour in the gooseberry puree, being careful not to disturb the casing; cover the top nearly half an inch thick with crumbs and sugar, and bake for an hour. When taken from the oven cover with a cloth, and only turn out when wanted. Serve with clotted or whipped cream. CHERRY TAPIOCA. — This calls for a pound and a half sour cher- ries, one cup pearl tapioca and sugar to sweeten. Wash the tapioca in several waters, cover with cold water and soak over night. Put on the fire with one pint boiling water and simmer slowly until the tapioca is perfectly clear. Stone the cherries, stir into the boiling tapioca and sweeten to taste. Take from the fire, turn into the dish in which it is to be served and set to cool. Serve cold with cream. This will make enough for eight persons. DATE FLUFF-DUFF. — ^This is one of Mr. Berry's unique recipes. Stew one cupful stoned dates until tender. Put through a colander and 118 PASTRY mix with a cup of $ugar tLat has been sifted with a teaspoonful cream of tartar. Beat the whites of five eggs until stiff, add a pinch of salt, and when perfectly stiff put in the yolks of two and whip again. Now mix lightly, a little at a time, with the dates and sugar, and place in ramekins or other buttered baking dish. Sprinkle over the top one-half cup fine chopped nuts and bake about fifteen minutes. Serve with cream, plain or whipped. CHOCOLATE PUDDING.— Dissolve one-half cake of chocolate, grated, in a quart of boiling milk. Pour over a pint of bread crumbs and let stand an hour. Put through a ricer or colander to free from all lumps. Add four well beaten eggs, three-fourths cup butter, two cups sugar, a half teaspoonful cinnamon, a cup seeded raisins and one of blanched chopped almonds. Steam an hour, then serve hot with cream. EXCELLENT GRAHAM PUDDING.— Two cups sifted flour (graham or Franklin Mills) ; dredge one cup of raisins, seeded and chopped, with a little of the flour and sift with the remainder two tea- spoonfuls of cream of tartar. Beat one egg very light, add half a cup of sugar, beat them together very light and add one cupful of sweet milk. Stir in the flour and mix to a smooth batter. Add one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little boiling water, and lastly the raisins. Steam in a covered pail or dish two and a half hours. Serve with hard sauce. INDIAN PUDDING. — Made as our grandmothers prepared it, with- out eggs. The old way that has never been improved upon is to bring a quart of fresh milk to a boil in an iron kettle, then sprinkle into it, little by little, with the left hand, about one and one-quarter cupfuls of fine granulated meal, stirring constantly meanwhile with the right hand. The meal should be held high and allowed to sift slowly through the fingers. When this has thickened and cooled, two teaspoonfuls of ginger, three-quarters of a cup of molasses and one-half teaspoonful of salt should be stirred in and the mixture beaten until smooth. The pudding dish must then be thoroughly greased, the batter poured in, and a quart of cold milk turned in at the last. After this last addition but little stirring is needed. Bake about five hours in a slow oven. The slower the oven the more creamy and delicious the pudding. After the cold milk is added the batter should be as thin as for pancakes. As meals vary in their thickening properties, an exact rule cannot be given, but it is always safe to assume that the newer the meal the less will be required. PLUM PUDiDING GLACE.— In case a plum pudding is desired at a Twelfth Night supper an iced one is a pleasing variation. This is little more than a plain ice cream decorated with an abundance of fruits and nuts. If desired the cream may be purchased from the confectioner's, then mixed with the fruit which has been soaked in sherry and repacked PASTRY 119 in ice and salt until needed. If made at home try this rule, which, by the way, is a good one for any wintry festivity: — Put two and three-quarters cups of milk in a double boiler and bring' to a scald. Stir in gradually two full tablespoonfuls of flour and one cup- of sugar dissolved in three tablespoonfuls of milk. Stir until thickened and smooth-, then add one beaten egg, a deep yellow one preferred. Have ready one level tablespbonful of gelatine which has soaked for twenty minutes in three tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to the custard as soon as taken from the fire. Stir until dissolved, put in a cup of cream and a teaspoonful of vanilla, and set aside until cold. Then freeze. Meanwhile have in readiness one-quarter pound chopped figs, the same quantity seeded raisins, two tablespoonfuls of candied orange peel and citron and a quarter cup chopped English walnuts, all of which have been soaked in a little sherry for half an hour. After freezing add the fruit and nuts, turn the freezer five minutes, then pack in ice and salt. If in emptying from the mould the iced pudding sticks wrap a towel wrung out of boiling water around it for a moment to loosen. Then if it seems creamy set on ice a moment to harden. This may be served with or without a pudding sauce. If desired the following sauce, which is equally good for any frozen pudding, may be served: — Iced Pudding Sauce. — Beat together the yolks of two eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sugar in a bowl, then set in a pan of boiling water on the stove where the water will be kept at the boiling point. As it begins to thicken add slowly two tablespoonfuls of brandy, stirring all the time. Take from the fire, add a pint of whipped, sweetened cream, beat well, and set on the ice until time to serve the pudding. Peach Fritters.— Peel and cut in halves peaches not over ripe. Sprinkle with sugar, then roll in regular fritter batter, powdered maca- roons or fine stale cake crumbs. Fry in deep fat and drain and roll in powdered sugar. BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.— Mix sifted Indian meal with three pints of scalding hot milk. If you have no milk, water may be sub- stituted. Stir in three large tablespoonfuls of sugar or molasses, two of wheat flour, half a spoonful of ginger or two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, and one of salt. Two or three eggs, a little melted butter or chopped suet improve the pudding, but these are not essential. Do not have the pudding bag, which should be well floured inside, much more than half full of the batter, as it requires considerable room in which to swell. It will be good when boiled three hours, but is better for six hours' boiling. It can be partly boiled the day before it is to be served, but should not remain in the water unless boiling. Serve with butter and sugar or molasses. This is a good dessert to go with a boiled dinner. PRUNE WHIP.— A good dessert, this, for an invalid. Add to one pint prune pulp the whites of four eggs. Whip with the pulp until 120 PASTRY light, and set in the oven until puffed and light. Serve with whipped cream or a custard made from the yolks of the eggs, a pint of milk and sugar to taste. PLUM PUDDING SAUCE.— Cook together a cupful of sugar and a quarter cup of water until the syrup spins a thread. Beat the yolks of three eggs until lemon colored and thick and pour the hot syrup over them, beating all the time. Add a cupful of cream, one teaspoonful of lemon juice and two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Strain and serve imme- diately. INDIAN APPLE JELLY PUDDING.— Turn three pints of scalding milk on to a pint of sifted Indian meal, stir in two heaping tablespoon- fuls of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of either cinnamon or ginger and a teaspoonful of salt. Add a dozen sweet apples, pared and sliced thin. Bake three hours in a moderate oven. The apples will form a nice, sweet jelly. PEACH BETTY.— Slice two cupfuls peaches. Butter a baking dish and lay in it a layer of the peaches, sprinkling with cinnamon and sugar and dotting with bits of butter. Place over this a layer of bread or cake crumbs. Then alternate the peaches and crumbs until the dish is three- quarters full, having crumbs on top. Add no water, but cover closely and steam three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Then remove the cover and brown. Serve with cream or a sweet sauce. CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING.— According to tradition, plum pudding should be at least "nine days old" before it is eaten. A good recipe for its making is as follows: — Put into a big bowl one cupful each of finely chopped suet, seeded raisins, cleaned currants and granu- lated sugar, three cupfuls of soft bread crumbs and one each of shredded citron and orange peel. Put in four eggs one by one, each being mixed thoroughly with the, other ingredients before the next one is added. Next to follow is one-half cup of milk, one-quarter cup brandy, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one teaspoonful mixed nutmeg, clove and allspice and the grated yellow rind of one lemon. Mix thoroughly, using the hands, then fill into a large buttered mould, leaving scarcely any room for it to swell. Tie a thickly greased and floured cloth or a piece of oiled paper over the top and fit on the cover as tight as possible. Put into a steamer or arrange some cords so that it may be suspended from the inside of the cover of the kettle in which it is boiled. The boiling water should reach nearly to the top of the bowl. Boil seven hours steadily, taking care that no water boils into it, and that the water is boiling when the pudding goes in, and is not allowed to stop. On Christmas Day it can be reheated in^^he mould in which it was made. When sending to the table, stick a sprig of holly on the top, put a border of blanched split almonds around the edge, and pour over the pudding a quarter cupful of brandy or rum, to be set on fire just as it enters the dining room. PASTRY 121 STEAMED PEACH PUDDING.— This excellent recipe comes from Mr. Berry's Fruit Recipes. Mix well a cup of flour, two of bread crumbs and a half cup chopped nuts, preferably almonds. Stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs, three-fourths cup of sugar, a little lemon juice and two heaping cups of chopped peaches. Lastly put in the whipped whites of three eggs. Turn into a well buttered mould and steam two hours. Serve with peaches pressed through a sieve and sweetened. RAISIN PUFFS.— Beat one-half cup sugar and one teaspoonful of butter to a cream. Beat in one egg. Add one-half cup of milk, one and one-third cups flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one cup of chopped raisins and spice to taste. Steam for three-quarters of an hour in cups one-half full. INDIAN PUDDING, with Meringue.— Put one quart of fresh milk m a double boiler and when it reaches the scalding point sift in four tablespoonfuls of fine cornmeal mixed with the same quantity of wheat flour. Stir thoroughly and cook two hours. When done, set off the stove and cool. Add the yolks of four well beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of salt. Bake a delicate brown. Take from the oven and when it has cooled, spread with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff with four tablespoonfuls of pulver- ized sugar. Use a wire whip or fork for making the merinque. Set in the oven, which should be cool, and brown. PEACH COBBLER,— And first the cobbler which our Southern cooks made in such perfection. For this purpose the richest and ripest fruit is selected, usually some variety of the yellow peach, because of its superior richness. Butter a deep earthenware pudding dish at least three and one-half inches deep. Line the sides with good pastry, then fill the dish with peeled peaches torn in halves instead of cutting. Leave in enough pits to impart flavor. Sweeten abundantly, then cover with a rich layer of crust, sealing down so that none of the juices may escape. Bake in a hot oven about three-quarters of an hour, covering with paper if there is any danger of its browning too rapidly. When nearly done draw to the oven door, dredge over with powdered sugar, and set back to glaze. A real old fashioned cook is a stickler for a few spoonfuls of brandy poured over the peaches before the top crust is put on, but the majority of folk find it quite delectable enough without any spirituous additions. BAKED PEACHES.— These are an excellent relish to serve with a roast or fowl, or may be used as dessert. For this purpose large, fine peaches are a desideratum. Peef with a fruit knife or plunge into boiling water for a moment, when the skins will rub off as easily as the skin of a scalded tomato. Leave whole, but stick a couple of cloves in each peach for Havor. Arrange in a rather deep baking dish, sprinkle with sugar and dot the tops of the peaches with bits of butter. Add a cupful 122 PASTEY of boiling water to the baking pan and sprinkle a few chopped nuts over the top if desired, and bake in a steady, moderate oven. They may be served hot or cold. PEACH DUMPLINGS.— These may be made of biscuit dough the same as apple dumplings or of paste rolled into rounds six inches across. Pinch the edges into cup shape. Arrange in a baking pan and put a peeled peach in the centre of each. Sprinkle with sugar and dot with butter, then bake in a hot oven. LEMON SAUCE. — Mix together in a saucepan a tablespoonful of cornstarch and three-fourths of a cup of sugar. Stir in carefully one cup of boiling water, possibly more, as cornstarch varies in its thickening qualities. Cook for ten minutes, stirring often. Add the juice of one lemon and a little of the grated peel, and one tablespoonful of butter. Push back on the stove, and as soon as the butter is all incorporated stir in quickly the beaten yolk of an egg. Beat the white very stiff, and stir in lightly, so as to give the sauce the effect of foam. RHUBARB DUMPLINGS.— It is the invention of an old and re- sourceful Arizona housekeeper, a natural cook, and one always ready to rise to the occasion for unexpected guests, even on an isolated ranch miles from any base of supplies. When rhubarb is in season she washes and cuts it in inch pieces, and stews with little more than half its weight in sugar and just a little water. It does not need much, for as soon as it begins to cook the juice forms plentifully. While it is cooking she mixes a flour batter the same as for meat dumplings, using in the proportion of a pint of flour, a half teaspoonful of salt, two tea- spoonfuls of baking powder and a scant cup of sweetened milk, then drops it by the spoonful into the boiling rhubarb. The result is delicious, ■eaten hot with or withput cream. As the same thing can be done with any kind of stewed fruit, this stock emergency dessert may find appre- ciation in other places than on the desert. STEAMED PUDDING.— Mix together two and one-half cups of graham flour, one cup each of milk, molasses and seeded raisins, two small teaspoonfuls of soda, a pinch of salt and a half teaspoonful •of ginger. Steam two hours in a buttered mould, never allowing the water to stop boiling for a moment. Serve with a hard sauce or the following liquid sauce which is one of the most reliable pudding sauces made: — Cream Sauce for Pudding. — Beat a piece of butter the size of an egg with powdered sugar until it is a light cream. Set to one side. Put a cup of boiling water into a small saucepan and stir into it one teaspoon- ful of flour mixed with a little cold water. Cook until clear, smooth and ^e consistency of thin starch. Take up the bowl containing the butter and sugar mixture and wjiile one beats it energetically let an- other pour it in. PASTRY 12S QUEEN OF PUDDINGS.— Take one quart of milk, one pint of bread crumbs, the yolks of four eggs, one teacupful of white sugar and the rind of one lemon. Beat the yolks and sugar together, then stir in the crumbs and milk and bake until a light brown. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stirring in four tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. Place over the top of the pudding a layer of tart jelly — currant is very good— and over all spread the egg froth. Bake in the oven until this meringue is a light brown. Served either hot or cold, with or without a wine sauce, it is an appetizing dish. For special occasions an addition of currants and raisins makes this pudding even more de- licious. PEACH SOUFFLE.— Peel, then rub through a sieve eight ripe peaches. Stir in with them one cup powdered sugar and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Whisk steadily for eight minutes, then fold in the whites of six eggs that have been whipped to a stiff froth. Turn into- a souffle dish, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a steady, rather cool oven for ten minutes. PUDDING SAUCE.— T<5 make the sauce beat together one table- spoonful cornstarch, two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half cup of brown sugar. Set on the stove until heated, then turn in hot water, a little at a time, and cook until of the consistency required. Add four tablespoonfuls grape or apple jelly, with spices or flavoring to taste, and serve hot. AN ECONOMICAL PLUM PUDDING.— This is said to be equal to any plum pudding and is certainly far less expensive. Mix together a cup and a half of flour, one cup brown sugar, one cup grated suet, one cup seeded raisins, on^ cup of cleaned currants or chopped prunes, one cup of grated carrot, one cup of grated potato, one-quarter cup of minced orange peel, nutmeg, cinnamoiTand clove to taste. Steam three or four hours and serve with hard or liquid sauce. Marmalade Sauce. — Put a small glass of marmalade into a saucepan with two wineglassfuls of white wine, and stir over a gentle fire until well heated. Strain and serve. If desired brandy and water in equal parts may be substituted for the wine. FRUIT JELLY.— Soak a half box of gelatine in a half cup of cold water for half an hour, together with the thinly shaved rind of one lemon and two oranges. Then pour on a scant cup of boiling water ■and stir until dissolved. Add one cup sugar, two cups of orange juice and the juice of one lemon, and strain through a fine cloth into a pitcher or saucepan with a lip. Wet a mould with cold water, turn in a layer of the liquid jelly about half an inch deep and set on the ice where it will harden quickly. Prepare a cupful of fruit, sections of oranges, Malaga grapes (seeded),*bananas (sliced), preserved pineapple, or can- died fruits, etc., and as the jelly in the bottom of the mould stiffens put in a layer of the fruit, fastening each piece in place with a little 124 PASTRY jelly before adding enough more jelly to cover. Repeat until all the fruit and jelly have been used, then set on the ice until time to serve. THE MAKING OF CUSTARDS.— A custard is one of the things that admits of no guesswork. It is one of the easiest desserts to make and one of the easiest to spoil. Its proper baking is of even more im- portance than its mixing. It must be made of fresh materials and bakes better in a shallow dish than in a deep one. The oven heat must be moderate and the cups or dish containing the custard placed in a shallow tin dish like a dripping pan. The moment a custard is baked it should be taken out. If you leave it longer it will be watery. The proper test is to insert the blade of a knife down to the bottom, and if it comes out withqut liquid adhering the custard is done. For the various forms of baked and boiled custard four eggs to a quart of miilk are sufficient for all purposes, yet six eggs may be used, or even more, if the custard is desired very rich. Boiled custard is smoother if only the yolks of the eggs are used. Often gelatine or cornstarch is put in to assist in thickening milk when eggs are expensive, but these are 119;^ real custards. Eggs should not be beaten too much in making a custard. Beatf just enough so that the egg does not string. Overheating tends to make a custard curdle. PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD.— Beat llightly four eggs, whites and yolks, together. Add one quart fresh milk, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt and whatever flavoring is desired. Nutmeg is the old fashioned flavoring that most people like. Rose water is delicate and almond good, though not , a teaspoonful of salt. Add flour to make a stiff batter, as stiff as you can beat, remembering that the longer the preliminary beating the less kneading will be required. Now add more flonir, turn out on a floured board and knead fifteen or twenty minutes. Let it rise two or three hours until double its bulk, then make into loaves, handling as little as possible. Let rise to double its bulk again, then bake. The oven should be hot to start with, then cooled gradually. ^ HOME MADE YEAST.— Peel, boil and mash three large potatoes. Pour two quarts boiling water over an ounce and a half hops (handful), simmer half an hour, strain and pour over three tablespoonfuls flour, a tablespoonful salt, a half cup sugar, and a teaspoonful ginger. Mix well, add the potatoes, mashed through a sieve, cool to lukewarm, then add one cupful good yeast. Mix well and leave in a warm place twenty- four hours until light and bubbly on the surface. Put into cans and seal. SOUR MILK CORNCAKEv— Sift together one cupful of flour, a half cupful of Indian meal, two tablespoonfuls sugar and a half teaspoon- ful each salt and soda. Pour in one cupful sour milk and a teaspoonful lard or butter melted, and beat well. Fold in a beaten egg and bake in hot gem tins or a round shallow pan. BOSTON BROWN BREAD (New Style).— There is even a new wrinkle in making Boston brown bread, and that is cake crumbs in place of wheat flour. The regular rule calls for one small cup corn meal, the same amount of graham flour, ditto cake crumbs or wheat flour, the former much the better. Mix these dry ingredients together. Put into a bowl one cup sour milk, two-thirds of a cup of molasses, a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of soda. Stir until the soda stops "purring," then stir into the dry ingredients. A cup of cut raisins may be added or not as desired. Many think them an improvement. Pour into buttered moulds and steam three hours, starting with cold water. If a larger quantity of bread is required, a teacupful of entire wheat flour is added. CINNAMON BUNS.— Scald one cup milk; while hot add two table- spoonfuls sugar and two rounded tablespoonfuls butter. Cool to luke- warm, then add half a compressed yeast cake dissolved in two table- spoonfuls warm water and three eggs well beaten without separating. Now add enough flour to make a dough (about two cupfuls). It should be soft and elastic. Knead well, then put into a small pan, cover and stand where it wil keep warm until it has doubled in bulk. It will take BREAD 147 about four hours. Turn lightly on the moulding board, roll into a sheet, spread the sheet with butter, then cover thickly with sugar, using nearly a cupful. Dust lightly with cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and roll up into a long roll. Cut into biscuits about an inch and a half long and stand up endwise in small round buttered pans. Cover lightly and let rise for an hour and a half, then bake in a moderate, steady oven for an hour. ENGLISH CRUMPETS.— Scald one cupful milk, add a teaspoonful butter, one of sugar and a half teaspoonful salt. Cool to lukewarm, add one-half cake compressed yeast, dissolved in warm water, and flour to make a rather thick batter that can be poured. Beat hard eight minutes, and set in a warm place to rise for an hour, or until light and spongy. Have ready a heated griddle, well greased, and a number of large muffin rings also thoroughly greased. Lay these on the griddle and pour into each sufficient batter to fill half an inch deep. Push back where they will rise slowly. By the time the under side is a pale brown the upper one will be full of bubbles and slightly dried. Turn and cook long enough to be done but not brown. When all are baked, tear each partly open, butter plentifully, and toast or place in the oven until very hot. SOUR CREAM BISCUIT.— While the acidity of milk varies, requir- ing judgment on the part of the cook, a safe general rule to follow is a level teaspoonful soda to one pint sour milk that has stood two or three days and a scant teaspoonful soda to a pint of sour milk that has just turned to a jellylike consistency. The mistake that many cooks make is to add too much soda. Just enough is required to counteract the acidity of the milk. Sour milk that has stood long enough to acquire a bitter or mouldy taste is unfit for use and must be thrown away. For the biscuit sift together two cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful salt, a level teaspoonful sugar and a rounding teaspoonful baking powder. Put into a bowl a half cup each sour cream and milk, then beat into it a half teaspoonful soda dissolved in a tablespoonful cold water. When it stops "singing" stir in with the sifted flour, mix gently but quickly with a spoon and turn out on a well floured board. Pat with the floured hand until a smooth cake is formed, then cut into shape with a small biscuit cutter or tea caddy lid. Lay in a greased biscuit pan and bake in a hot oven. If you have no cream, rub a spoonful lard or butter in the prepared flour before adding a cupful sour milk with the soda. Keep the dough as soft as possible so that the biscuit will be tender. Butter- milk biscuit are made in the same way, using a tablespoonful shortening to a quart of flour. BUTTER CAKES. — Dissolve in one pint warm water a tablespoon- ful butter and a teaspoonful salt. Add one-half cake compressed yeast dissolved in a little warm water and one pint flour. Cover and set in a warm place until light. Then add one cupful warm water, and flour to make a soft dough. Knead thoroughly for five minutes, cover with a 148 BREAD clcth and set aside again until the dough is light. Turn out on a well floured board, roll into a sheet three-quarters of an inch in thickness and stamp out with a round cutter. Cover with a floured cloth and leave on the board about fifteen minutes, until the cakes begin to rise, then bake on a well greased griddle. As soon as set on one side turn over, and do this two or three times, that they may be flat and evenly colored. BANNOCKS. — Sift together one pint of corn meal, one tablespoonful of sugar and one teaspoonful of salt. Pour over the mixture sufficient milk or milk and water to moisten. Let it stand until cool, add three well beaten eggs, spread half an inch thick on well greased pans and bake in a hot oven. Cut into squares, split and serve hot and well but- tered. CORN DODGERS.— These cakes, made from the earliest times by the Indians and negroes, and baked in leaves or on a hoe in the hot ashes, may be successfully imitated by the modern cook in her up-to-date oven. Scald one pint Southern corn meal sifted with one cupful of flour and a teaspoonful of salt with two cupfuls of boiling water or milk in which a rounded tablespoonful of shortening has been melted. This should result in a moist but sufficiently firm batter that will keep its place when dropped from a spoon into a well greased baking pan. Two table- spoonfuls will be enough for each dodger, about three-fourths of an, inch in thickness. The cakes may be even smaller if preferred. To give them the old fashioned Southern finish leave the full length imprint of the finger across the top of each cake. Bake in a moderately hot oven half an hour and eat hot with butter for breakfast or luncheon. If preferred, the dodgers may be baked on a well greased griddle. Cook slowly and when well browned on one side turn to the other. HOT CROSS BUNS.— For two dozen buns scald one cup of milk, add to it a tablespoonful of butter, quarter of a cup of sugar and a salt- spoonful of salt. When cooled to lukewarm add half a compressed yeast cake softened in a little lukewarm water and a pint of flour. This should be mixed early in the evening. Beat well and let the batter rise until foaming and about double its bulk. Then add a half cup of sugar, a quarter teaspoonful of mixed cinnamon, nutmeg and mace, a half cup of currants thoroughly picked over, washed and dried, a tablespoonful of finely shredded candied lemon peel and enough flour to make a dough that can be kneaded. Knead well, cover and set in a warm place to raise over night. In the morning turn out on a well floured board and divide into pieces weighing about three ounces each. Pat them out round, let stand a few moments, then roll into oblong shapes and lay in a greased dripping pan far enough apart to give them room to expand. Let them rise again from half to three-quarters of an hour, dip a knife in boiling water and cut a cross in the centre of each, taking pains not to cut deep enough to make the dough settle. Bake about half an hour in a moderate oven. As soon as they are done, rub over with a syrup made by dissolv- BREAD 149 ing a tablespoonful of sugar in two of water and return to the oven a moment to dry and glaze. Eat hot and well buttered. Chopped almonds or other nuts, raisins seeded and chopped or chopped prunes or dates may be substituted for currants if desired and an egg may be added just before the first kneading. BROOKLYN HOT CROSS BUNS.— Much easier and quicker is this Brooklyn recipe. One Brooklyn woman bakes 200 annually for her own family, which consists of husband and two stalwart boys. For an ordinary measure sift together one quart of pastry flour, two dessert- spoonfuls of baking powder and a pinch of salt. Rub into the flour a piece of butter the size of an egg. Mix together a pint of milk and water, equal quantities, and one cup of sugar; stir into the flour, add two eggs and mix soft. Cut out into small biscuit, make the cross on top of each and bake in a very hot oven. Sift powdered sugar over them. Raisins and currants may be added according to individual preference. BAKING POWDER BISCUIT.— Sift together, three times over, one quart flour, two rounded teaspoonfuls baking powder and a teaspoon- ful salt. Rub in quickly and thoroughly with the tips of the fingers one rounding tablespoonful lard or lard and butter mixed. Add slowly a cup and a half milk or milk and water. Mix lightly with little handling, turn out on the moulding board, roll into a sheet half an inch in thick- ness, stamp out with a small round cutter and lay on a greased baking pan far enough apart so they will not touch. Brush the top of each biscuit with milk and bake in a very hot oven for about twenty minutes. MOONSHINER'S CORNCAKE.— Make a thick batter with yellow corn meal and warm water, salt to taste, cover and let it stand in a warm place out of the way of draughts until it rises. Have muffin pans very hot, put them on the stove, drop a teaspoonful of butter in the bottom of each, and when it bubbles fill the pans half full of batter. Bake in a moderate oven. They should rise to the top of the tins. CORN MUFFINS. — Sift together a pint and a half of flour, one cup- ful of corn meal, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of sugar. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter or lard, heated to soften (the lard makes more tender gems), one pint of milk and two beaten eggs. Have muffin tins hot and well greased, and fill with the batter. Bake in a hot oven. BEATEN BISCUIT. — Sift together two quarts flour, one teaspoonful salt and one level teaspoonful baking powder. Now, with the tips of the fingers, work into the sifted flour a quarter cup butter or lard until the flour feels like corn meal. Then add from a cup and a half to two cups ice cold water or milk and mix to a dough. Roll through a biscuit machine for half an hour or beat 100 strokes on a wooden block with a 150 BREAD heavy pestle. Cut into small rounds and bake about thirty minutes in a moderate oven. CORN PONE. — Sift together one quart sweet meal, one teaspoonful salt, two tablespoonfuls sugar. Add one pint scalding hot milk and beat well. Sift together one heaping pint flour and two teaspoonfuls baking powder and stir into the batter, together with the beaten yolks of two eggs. Beat hard. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, turn into a long, shallow tin pan and bake in a hot oven. This is a famous Kentucky recipe. The Virginia rule calls for one quart buttermilk, two teaspoonfuls soda, one quart corn meal and one pint 61 flour. Bake for three hours in a stone crock. CHEAP HOE CAKE.— Moisten one quart of Indian meal, which has had a teaspoonful of salt sifted with it, to a dough, with boiling water or milk. Let it stand three or four hours, until it shows air bubbles on the surface, then make into thick cakes and bake on greased tins in the oven, or cut in slices and fry in pork fat on a griddle. Break in pieces instead of cutting, and eat while hot. BLACKBERRY MUFFINS.— Sift together a pint flour, two tea- spoonfuls baking powder and a half teaspoonful salt. Rub in a half cup- ful butter or lard and butter mixed, then add one cupful milk mixed with a tablespoonful sugar and a beaten egg. When well mixed add one Cupful berries and bake in well-greased muffin tins in a hot oven. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS.— Beat together at night one quart flour, two tablespoonfuls sugar, two tablespoonfuls butter rubbed into the flour, a compressed yeast cake and one pint warm milk. Beat vigor- ously, then cover. In the morning add flour to mould, without sticking, and let rise again. When light, work into a round ball, then cut into long strips about as large around as a rolling pin. These are then cut into biscuits, greased over with a bit of melted butter, patted down, then folded over so that the greased surface comes to the outside with the edges almost together. As they rise they open a little. After rising about an hour bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a hot oven. VELVET MUFFINS.— Cream together two tablespoonfuls each but- ter and sugar. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with one cup sweet milk. Next add one quart wheat flour sifted three times over with two teaspoonfuls baking powder and a half teaspoonful salt, and beat until the latter blisters. This point should not be overlooked. Now fold in the stifily whipped whites of the eggs, pour into hot and well greased gem irons and bake in a hot oven. BREAD MUFFINS.— Soak one pint broken bread in a pint of milk for half an hour. Add a tablespoonful melted butter, the yolks of two eggs, beaten light, a teaspoonful salt and a cup and a half flour sifted BREAD 151 with a tablespoonful baking powder. Lastly fold in the whites of the eggs, well beaten, and bake in small rings or pans in a hot oven. RAISED WHEAT MUFFINS.— Heat a pint milk to the boiling point, then cool. When lukewarm dissolve half a compressed yeast cake in some of the milk, add a liberal tablespoonful melted butter, the rest of the milk and two well beaten eggs. Scald out the bread bowl so as to have it warm, then sift into it a quart of flour and a teaspoonful salt. Pour in the warm milk with the eggs and butter and beat the whole until the batter "blisters." Cover closely and set in a warm place. Do this about nine o'clock at night. In the early morning butter twelve deep muffin pans, fill half full and set covered where they may rise until about a quarter inch from the tops of the pans. Have the oven hot and bake about half an hour. VIENNA ROLLS. — Sift two or three times over one quart flour, a half teaspoonful salt and two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Work in a a tablespoonful butter and a pint of milk to make a dough. Roll out about an inch in thickness, cut into jound forms, brush over with butter, then fold over once. Have the baking pans well greased and do not let the rolls touch each other. Brush over the tops of the rolls with a little butter or milk and bake in a hot oven. TOASTED MUFFINS,— The English housewife usually serves toasted muffins with sole for breakfast. To make them English fashioru sift together one quart of flour, two tablespoonfuls baking powder, a tea- spoonful salt and a half teaspoonful sugar. Mix in gradually two and a half cups milk and beat into a stiff batter. Grease muffin rings and set on a hot and well greased griddle. Pour in the batter, filling about half full. When cooked on one side turn to the other. When a delicate brown on both sides, pull apart in the centre and toast lightly. Serve very hot. LAPLAND MUFFINS.— Beat the yolks of four eggs until lemon colored and thick, then add to them gradually a pint rich milk. Have ready a pint pastry flour sifted with a half teaspoonful salt, and turn the milk and yolks of eggs into this, beating with a patent beater until it becomes a perfectly smooth batter vi^ithout lumps. Take out the beater and fold in the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs. Have ready a half dozen stoneware cups, well greased, turn in the batter and bake in a moderate oven. CRACKED WHEAT MUFFINS.— Soak two cupfuls cracked wheat in two cupfuls sweet milk over night. In the morning add a teaspoonful salt, a rounded teaspoonful baking powder, two tablespoonfuls molasses and the well beaten yolks of two eggs. Beat vigorously several moments, fold in the stifily whipped whites of the eggs and turn at onie into hot, well buttered pans. Bake in a hot oven. 152 BREAD HOMINY MUFFINS.— Take a cup of warm boiled hominy cooked to the proper consistency for a breakfast mush and mix with it a table- spoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful salt and a cup of milk. Sift to- gether a cup and a half of pastry flour and a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder, and add gradually to the hominy mixture. If the boiled hominy is rather thin a little more flour may be needed to make the proper consistency. Lastly add two well beaten eggs and bake in a hot oven for half an hour. RICE MUFFINS.— Dilute two cupfuls cold boiled rice with a cup warm milk, stirring until free from lumps. Add a tablespoonful melted butter and the well beaten yolks of three eggs. Sift together one pint flour, a tablespoonful sugar, a teaspoonful and a half baking powder, and a half teaspoonful salt. Add to the rice and milk and beat to a smooth, firm batter. Have the muffin pans hissing hot, fold the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs into the batter, turn at once into the hot pans and bake in a hot oven for about fifteen minutes. FRENCH FRITTER BATTER.— Beat thoroughly the yolks of two eggs, add to them a half cup cold water and one cup flour which has been sifted with a half teaspoonful salt. Beat in a tablespoonful olive oil, and if the batter seems too thick add more cold water. Fold in the stiffly whipped whites of the eggs and stand on the ice for an hour before frying by the spoonful in deep hot fat. POPOVERS.— Beat well together one cup flour into which a little salt has been sifted, one cup milk and one well beaten egg. Beat very light and bake in heated gem irons or cups. Popovers depend for their lightness on the heat of the oven and must be baked quickly with the greatest heat underneath to drive them up. If the batter is too thick or they have not been sufficiently mixed, they will be sodden. GRAHAM MUFFINS.— Sift together, two or three times over, one cupful graham flour, one-half cupful white flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, a saltspoonful salt and two tablespoonfuls sugar. Add one well beaten egg mixed with a cupful of cream or rich milk, beat well, turn into hot irons and bake in a quick oven. SWEDISH ROLLS. — Dissolve one cake compressed yeast in a half cup warm water. Mix with a pint of milk that has been scalded and cooled, add a level teaspoonful salt and flour to make a drop batter. Rub half cup butter with a quarter cup sug^ar until creamy, then add the beaten whites of two eggs. When well blended, stir into the risen bat- ter, with enough more flour to make a stiff dough. Knead until smooth and light and set in a warm place until doubled in bulk. Turn out on a well floured board, knead slightly and roll into a rectangular piece, about one-third of an inch thick. Spread with "a layer of soft butter and sprinkle with a mixture of sugar, gj^ated lemon peel, cinnamon and cur- BREAD 153 rants. Roll up like a jelly roll, cut off in slices an inch wide and lay the cut side down on well greased pans. Let them rise well or until light, then bake about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Then glaze with a little sugar dissolved in milk and dry a moment in the oven. PUFF FRITTERS.— Mix smoothly with one pint of milk eight tablespoonfuls of flour. Put into a well greased pan and scald over the fire, stirring all the time. Take from the fire and when cold mix in four- teen well beaten eggs. Beat eggs and batter until smooth and light, then drop by the tablespoonful in hot fat and fry a light brown. Drain on paper and serve. ORANGE FRITTERS.— Beat the yolks of four eggs with four table- spoonfuls sugar until lemon colored and thick. Stir into this the juice of half a lemon and flour to thicken like batter. Add the stiffly beaten whites and dip in one slice of orange at a time. Take up with a large kitchen spoon and fry a golden brown in butter or drippings. Sprinkle pulverized sugar on top if you are going to serve them as a special course. Where they are served with broiled ham lessen the amount of sugar put into the batter and omit sprinkling the outside. SOUR MILK GRIDDLE CAKES.— Stir into a pint of sour milk a teaspoonful of soda, a half teaspoonful of salt and flour to make a good consistency for baking. Have the griddle hot and well greased, bake the cakes in perfect circles and pile one on top of the other. No eggs are needed. A nice addition is a handful of huckleberries. FLANNEL CAKES. — Into four cups of pastry flour sift an even teaspoonful soda and two of cream of tartar. Rub a half cupful of butter into the flour, mixing thoroughly, and a teaspoonful each of salt arid sugar. Pour in little by little a scant four cupfuls milk, stirring con- stantly so as to avoid all lumps. Bake immediately. SWEET MILK GRIDDLE CAKES.— Two cupfuls of flour, one level tablespoonful baking powder, two level tablespoonfuls of sugar, one- half level teaspoonful of salt, one and one-third cupfuls milk, one egg and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Sift together the dry ingredients, add gradually the milk, then the egg well beaten and the melted butter. Beat thoroughly. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased hot griddle or frying pan. BUCKWHEAT PANCAKES.— To four cups best brand buckwheat flour add one small cup yellow Indian meal and a tablespoonful salt. Mix one cup cold milk with three cups hot water and when the mixture is lukewarm beat slowly into the dry ingredients so as to avoid lumping. Beat smooth, add one yeast cake dissolved in lukewarm water, then con- tinue beating five minutes longer. Put to rise about seven o'clock in the evening, preferably in an earthenware bucket with a tin cover and tin 154 BREAD capped spout. In the morning, just before baking, mix an even teaspoon- ful soda in a cup warm milk and beat into the batter, which should foam in great bubbles. Grease the hot griddle with a bit of fat pork or a swab dipped in beef suet and pour on the batter in small round cakes, taking pains to make them perfect circles. They should be a rich brown with- out the aid of molasses, which gives them a rank taste. Pile in regular order and serve smoking hot. PANCAKES A LA . CELESTINE.— Sift together into a deep bowl one pint flour, a teaspoonful salt and a tablespoonful sugar. Have ready a pint cream or a pint of milk with two tablespoonfuls melted butter added. Break three eggs into the flour, add two or three tablespoonfuls of the milk and beat into a smooth batter. Then add the rest of the milk and a little grated lemon peel. The batter should be very thin and the cakes baked about the size of a t;a plate. As soon as a delicate brown spread with jelly or jam and roll. Dredge a little powdered sugar over each roll and serve very hot. RAISED WAFFLES.— Scald a cup and three-quarters of milk and add to it half a teaspoonful salt and a teaspoonful butter. Put in a quar- ter of a compressed yeast cake dissolved in a quarter cup lukewarm water. Add a pint of flour, beat the mixture well and let it rise. Just before turning into the hot greased waffle irons, stir in two eggs well beaten. GEORGIA WAFFLES.— Allow to each pint of flour two eggs, one and a half cupfuls of milk or milk and cream, butter the size of a walnut, sprinkle of salt and a small teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix salt and baking powder well into the flour, rub the butter in evenly, then the eggs, well beaten, and stir into the milk. Have the waffle irons hot and well greased. Pour the batter in and bake immediately. The batter should be rather thin, about the consistency of good paste. CREAM WAFFLES. — Beat two eggs light and add .o a pint sour cream, into which a teaspoonful soda has been .beaten. Put in half a teaspoonful salt and flour to make thin batter. Pour in well greased waffle irons, which must be piping hot. Shut the iron the moment it is filled, turn it, and in a few moments turn again. When the waffles are brown on both sides place in layers and serve very hot, cutting through the layers to serve. Eat with plenty of butter and honey. CHOCOLATE ALMONDS.— Blanch the almond meats by pouring boiling water over them and letting them stand a few moments. Turn the hot water off and cover with cold, when the skin may easily be rubbed off between the thumb and forefinger. Break some sweet choco- late into small pieces, put into a dish and set in a larger pan of hot water. When the chocolate is melted, put a blanched nut meat on the point of a skewer or darning needle, or use a candy dipper, and dip into the melted chocolate. Then lay on oiled paper to cool. When the chocolate coating becomes set dip a second time. Flavor the melted chocolate with vanilla, if desired. CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.— Put into a granite saucepan one cup of finely broken or grated chocolate, one cup of molasses, the same amount each of rich milk and sugar and two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter. Stir over a slow fire until thoroughly mixed, then boil slowly until it cracks when dropped into ice water. Turn into greased tins and mark into squares before the mixture becomes cold. MOLASSES KISSES. — Make molasses candy by boiling together two cupfuls of molasses, one cupful of white sugar, three-quarters of a cupful of water, a rounded tablespoonful of butter and a scant half tea- spoonful of cream of tartar. As soon as this begins to boil, cover with a tin lid, which keeps in the steam and washes the candy from the sides of the pan. When the candy has been cooked long enough so that a little dropped in cold water may be rolled into a ball of jelly like con- sistency between the fingers, take from the fire and pour on oiled marble or a buttered platter. When cool enough to handle get the mass intO' good shape, hold over the stove and pull briskly for a few moments.. The heat and the stretching will whiten it in short time. When light; colored enough . divide in two parts, place on a slightly floured board,, stretch it out into long, narrow shapes, about half an inch thick. Have: ready some French fondant, knead until soft and creamy and work intO' it a dozen almonds chopped rather fine. Place this fondant on top one cake of the taffy, then cover with the remainder of the taffy, thus hav- ing the fondant between the layers of taffy. Press the layers firmly 155 156 CANDIES together and cut into strips half an inch wide, then with scissors cut into kisses. FRENCH CREAM WITHOUT COOKING.— Break into a bowl the white of one or more eggs, according to the quantity of candy you wish to make. Add an equal quantity of cold water, then stir in con- fectioner's sugar until you have it stiff enough to mould into shape with the fingers. Flavor to taste, then form into balls, cubes or lozenge shapes and lay on waxed paper to dry. They may then be coated with chocolate or combined with dates, walnuts, figs, cherries, just the same as with the cooked fondant. FRENCH FONDANT.— As fondant is the foundation for all the fine French candies, a good working knowledge of how to make it is essential. Molasses candy can be made on a damp day, fondant never. The materials needed are the best granulated sugar for the cream, a small quantity confectioner's sugar to be used in kneading, vegetable color pastes that can be purchased at any first class confectioner's or made at home, a little cream of tartar, and then the fillings, flavorings, nuts, etc., that are to be used in connection with a fondant. For flavor- ing the ordinary extracts are used, also maraschino and other cordials. The formula for fondant is always the same: — ^A pound of granulated sugar (that is, two ordinary cupfuls), one cupful hot water, and a half teaspoonful cream of tartar. This is the easiest quantity to handle for the amateur. After a little experience the quantity can be doubled, as fondant can be made and kept on hand. Put the ingredients into a granite saucepan with an extra heavy bottom and stir over a slow fire until the sugar is dissolved, but not a moment longer. After it has become a clear syrup stirring will cause it to granulate. Heat rapidly to the boiling point, wiping gently away with a damp cloth any moisture that appears on the sides of the pan. If this drops back into the pan it is apt to make the syrup granulate also. If any scum arises, remove it carefully. After cooking ten minutes begin testing in cold water. If it will make a soft ball when rolled between the fingers it is just right and must be at once removed from the fire. Set aside in the pan in which it has been cooked to cool. Do not try to hasten this by setting in cold water. Let it take its time. When cool, not cold, begin stirring ener- getically with a wooden paddle. In a few moments it will look cloudy, then whiten and grow thick and creamy. When too stiff to stir, take in the hands and knead like bread dough. There is no chance of overdoing this, for its lightness depends upon the thoroughness of the kneading. When quite light and creamy it is ready for use, though it is better to put away a day, as confectioners do, to mellow and ripen. Pack in an earthen dish and cover airtight with a slightly dampened cloth. This will keep for weeks if desired. COFFEE CARAMELS. — To one pound of brown sugar allow one cup of strong coffee, a half cup of cream and an ounce of butter. As CANDIES 157 soon as cooked sufficiently to be brittle when dropped in cold water, pour into buttered pans and mark with a buttered knife into squares before the mixture gets quite cold. SOFT CARAMELS. — For one pound of brown sugar allow one cup- ful of milk, a tablespoonful and a half of butter and half a cake grated chocolate. Cook nine minutes, take from the fire and stir steadily five minutes, but not until too stiff to pour. Turn into a buttered pan and mark in squares. This candy will be crumbly and rich. CARAMEL ALMONDS.— Shell, but do not blanch, a pound of Jordan almonds. Put a pound of sugar in a granite saucepan with two tablespoonfuls water and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until melted and slightly brown. Move to one side of the fire and have ready two or three well greased pie tins. With the left hand drop in the almonds, which should have been dried slightly in the oven without browning, and remove quickly with the candy dipper held in the right hand. Place on the greased tins to harden. COLORING THE FONDANT.— When sufficient fondant has been prepared it is ready for the coloring. All colors, extracts and flavors must be as concentrated as possible, so as not to thin the fondant too much. If you make your own colorings, green is made by cooking spinach leaves a few moments in a little water. Strain and bottle. To obtain red, boil one ounce powdered cochineal in a cup of water for five minutes, then add one ounce cream of tartar and a half ounce powdered alum and cook ten minutes longer. While hot add two ounces sugar and bottle. For pink use a few drops cochineal or a little cranberry juice, or the pink coloring that comes with some gelatines. For blue, rub indigo in a little water on a plate. Caramel or chocolate gives a dark brown. The grated rind of a dark skinned orange soaked in a small quantity of its juice, then strained, gives yellow, as does the yolk of an egg. Fruit juices also furnish good colorings for fondant. To color or flavor the fondant, simply work in the desired colors with appropriate flavors a little at a time until the desired effect is obtained. From this time on the work is fascinating and may be varied in any number of ways. For fillings or covers there may be utilized dates, figs, nuts of all kinds, cocoanut grated and dried, cherries, ginger, pineapple, can- died fruits and other ingredients that will suggest themselves as the work goes on. BURNT CHOCOLATE ALMONDS (GoufFe).— Spread one pound of Jordan almonds on a cloth and, rubbing lightly, pick out any that are broken. Put into a shallow saucepan one pound sugar, one-half pint water and two sticks vanilla. Boil to the "balling" point, pour almonds in and stir with a wooden spoon until the sugar is boiled to the crack and the almonds begin to crack. Take the pan from the fire and stir the almonds until all the sugar is set, then throw into a very 158 CANDIES coarse wire sieve and sift off the loose sugar. Return the almonds to the pan and stir over the fire until the sugar adhering begins to melt, then throw back in the sieve and cover to keep the almonds warm. Put all the sugar sifted from the almonds into a bowl, add a half-pound loaf sugar and one gill of water, boil the sugar to the crack, add almonds and stir over the fire until all the sugar adheres to them, and keep them warm, so that they may glaze the more easily. To glaze the sugared almonds clean the saucepan and put in one ounce gum Arabic and one- half ounce sugar dissolved in a half gill of water. Put over fire and when the water boils add the sugared almonds, and toss until glazed all over. Dry in warming closet. Burnt Almonds with Chocolate. — Prepare as directed in preceding recipe, merely adding an ounce and a half grated chocolate to the sugar «ach time it boils up. Then glaze in the same way. MEXICAN KISSES.^Put into a saucepan two cups brown sugar and a half cup of milk and cook gently until a little dropped in cold -water will ball if rubbed between the fingers. It will take ten minutes or a little less to reach this stage. Stir constantly while boiling, as it scorches easily. Add a heaping tablespoonful butter, and as soon as melted remove from the fire and beat steadily until the mixture looks creamy and slightly granulated. Stir in at once a pound of English wal- nuts, broken (not chopped) into bits. Beat hard and turn into buttered tins to harden. MAPLE FOUNDATION OR FONDANT.— Put into a saucepan four cupfuls of brown sugar, two cupfuls of maple syrup, two cupfuls ■of hot water and a level teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Stir over a slow fire until thoroughly dissolved, but take care not to let boil. As soon as it is dissolved wipe away the grains that appear around the edge of the pan with a damp cloth, taking care not to jar the pan or let any moisture from the sides fall back into it. Now push the pan over the fire and let it come to a quick boil. Cook until it makes a soft ball when dropped into cold water to test. Remove from the fire and cool very gradually in the pan in which it was cooked. Never try *o hasten the cooling by setting the pan in the water. When cool, not •cold, stir energetically until a thick, creamy mass, then knead with the hands on a marble slab, the longer the better. When light and creamy put in an earthen dish and cover with a slightly dampened cloth until ready to use, which should not be under twenty-four hours at the least. Then flavor, shape and make what combinations with nuts jrou wish. If kept damp this fondant will keep for weeks. Avoid mak- ing any kind of fondant on damp days, as the sugar absorbs the mois- ture from the atmosphere and will not harden. If any fondant comes ■out grainy after being stirred, cover again with water, stir until thor- oughly dissolved, put on the fire and cook again. CANDIES 159 NUT CARAMELS. — Put in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of grated unsweetened chocolate, four ounces of butter, one pound of brown sugar, a half cupful of molasses, the same amount of cream and a half teaspoonful of vanilla. Cook until a little dropped in cold water is brittle, then add a pound of nuts chopped fine. The nuts may be of one kind or mixed, as preferred. COCOANUT CREAM CANDY.— Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add one-half cup of milk and a cup and a half of sugar. Heat to the boiling point and cook twelve minutes, taking care that it does not burn. Push back on the stove, add one-third cup of shredded cocoanut and a half teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat until the mixture is creamy, pour into a buttered pan, cool and mark into squares. BUTTER TAFFY.— Put into a granite saucepan a cup and a half of light brown sugar, three tablespoonfuls of molasses, a tablespoonful and a half each of hot water and vinegar and a pinch of salt. Cook until brittle when dropped in cold water. Add three tablespoonfuls of butter, cook a moment, add a teaspoonful of vanilla and pour in a shallow buttered pan. When cool mark into squares. CHOCOLATE CREAM MINTS.— Put into the pan one cup of granulated sugar, one-quarter cup of water and two drops of oil of peppermint. Cook until it crisps when dropped in cold water, then pour on a platter and beat until creamy. Drop on paper and cool. When cold and hard melt a quarter of a cake of chocolate over the tea kettle, sweeten a little and dip the mints into the melted chocolate. GLACED FRUIT AND NUTS.— These are very nice when made at home. Select a bright, clear day for the work and do it in a room where there is no moisture. Prepare oranges for the glace some little time beforehand so that the peeled quarters or eighths may become quite dry. Tangerines are excellent for this purpose, being naturally dry. Cut Malaga or Tokay grapes from the bunches, leaving the stems long. Cut citron in pretty forms, and if you use brandied cherries, dry them. Preserved watermelon rind dried out in the oven is also nice. Shell as many peanuts, Brazil nuts, hazel nuts and walnuts as needed. Al- monds and chestnuts must be blanched as well as shelled, then thor- oughly dried. The large French or Spanish chestnuts should be shelled, thrown in boiling water a few moments, then skinned, and after that be simmered a little in boiling water until tender, but not too soft. Drain and dry. When cool insert a small wooden toothpick in each nut. To make the glace, put a pound of granulated sugar and a scant cup of cold water in a saucepan and let it stand half an hour until the sugar is dissolved. Then set over the fire where it can be trusted to boil with- out stirring or jarring the kettle. To insure safety it is well to place an asbestos mat under the pan. When the bubbles on the surface of the syrup begin to look tough, test by dropping a teaspoonful in a cup of 160 CANDIES cold water. If it falls to the bottom with a brittle, clicking sound, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and lift at once from the fire. Set the pan in a larger basin of hot water and dip orange carpels held by the tips, cherries, grapes and other fruits in one by one, then place on oiled paper to harden. Do not use much motion in dipping the fruit lest the syrup granulate. A candy dipper that may be purchased at any department or candy store facilitates the dipping. Cherries and grapes or any fruit with stems are easy to dip, but the nuts are harder. If the syrup becomes too cold before all the fruit has been dipped, it can be reheated. As fast as each pan is filled with the glaced fruit set in an open window or other cold place to harden. If the glace is not com- plete with the first dipping repeat the operation again, adding a little more water to the syrup and repeating until it stands the test. Figs, dates and prunes are all nice for a glace. PEPPERMINTS.— Put half a cup of water and a cup and a half of sugar into the pan and stir constantly until the sugar is dissolved. Cook ten minutes. Beat until the mixture begins to thicken, then add six drops oil of peppermint. Drop from the tip of the spoon on buttered paper and set away to cool and harden. If the mixture gets too stiff to drop, add a few drops of water. PEANUT CANDY. — Have ready one cupful of peanuts shelled and chopped. Be sure you are rid of all the brown skins. Put one cupful of white sugar in a hot iron frying pan and stir until it is dissolved. Add the peanuts and turn immediately on to a buttered tin. As it cools cut into squares. HOME MADE CREAM CANDY.— Put into an agate or porcelain lined saucepan four cups granulated sugar, one cup thick cream and two cups water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, add a tablespoonful butter and a half saltspoonful of soda and cook, without stirring, twenty minutes or half an hour, until it is crisp, when it is dropped into cold water. Flavor lightly with vanilla, wintergreen or sassafras, pour into buttered plates and cool quickly. As soon as cool enough to handle, take up and pull rapidly and evenly until the mass feels smooth and velvety to the touch. It should be beautifully white. Draw into flat sticks, cut off with shears into sticks or kiss shaped drops, then lay away on buttered paper in air tight tin boxes. It can be used soon after making, but it is better if kept away from the air several days before using. If you wish to color the wintergreen candy pink, put in a few drops of cochineal syrup at the time you add the flavoring. VANILLA FUDGE. — Put into a shallow porcelain lined pan a heaping tablespoonful butter, a coffee cup granulated sugar, a third of a large cup of condensed milk and water mixed in about equal parts, and a tiny pinch of salt. Set over the fire and stir constantly. Cook eight minutes from the time the mixture begins to boil, or until the CANDIES 161 mixture thickens so as to scarcely drop from a spoon. When it reaches this stage remove at once from the fire. Now add a scant teaspoonful of vanilla and stir briskly until so thick that stirring becomes difficult. This will be in about ten minutes. Turn on a buttered pan and when nearly cooled mark into squares. This is delicious either fresh or when several days old. GUM DROPS.-^Dissolve one pound gum Arabic in a pint and a half of water, strain and add one pound sugar. Heat until the sugar is dissolved, then flavor to taste and color all or part as desired. This should be added while the mixture is warm. When about the con- sistency of honey, fill a shallow box with cornstarch, smooth the surface and with a stick rounded at the end the size you desire to have the gum drops, make little indentations in the starch. They should be as close together as can be without interfering. If a large number of the gum drops are to be made, round buttons of wood may be fastened to a flat board and the whole set of indentations made at once. Place the mixture of sugar and gum in a vessel with a long lip or spout and pour out slowly striking oflE with a wire. When the mould is filled, set in a warm place for several days until the drops are hard enough to handle. Then dampen a little and shape in granulated sugar. SPICED CHOCOLATE. — Put into a saucepan two cups of brown sugar, one-half cup of grated chocolate, a half cup water, a teaspoonful of butter and cinnamon to taste. Cook until brittle when dropped into cold water, then pour into buttered pans. Butter Scotch. — One cup New Orleans molasses, one cup of butter, two cups of powdered sugar and a pinch of soda. Boil until it crisps when dropped in cold water, then pour in thin sheets to cool. Chocolate Marshmallows. — ^To make chocolate marshmallows wipe ordinary marshmallows free from cornstarch, cut in halves, dip each in the melted chocolate ^d set away to harden. CHOCOLATE FUDGE. — Scrape or grate two squares of unsweet- ened chocolate and mix with two and one-half cups fine granulated sugar. Add one cup rich milk or cream and stir well. Put over the fire, add a heaping teaspoonful of butter and boil hard five minutes after it begins to boil. Stir all the time it is cooking, then take from the fire and continue beating until the fudge is smooth, heavy and cool enough to hold itself perfectly in shape. Pour on a well buttered tin to the depth of three-quarters of an inch, and check in squares. If you like the flavor of cinnamon or vanilla, add a scant teaspoonful while beating just as it begins to get cool. COCOANUT FUDGE. — Use the same rule as for the chocolate, but instead of putting in the cocoanut with the other materials, cook the 162 CANDIES fudge first, then add a cupful of prepared cocoanut just before taking from the fire. Fresh grated nut is too moist. Beat very thoroughly, so as to have the fudge creamy and delicious. BUTTERCUPS. — Put into a saucepan two cups molasses, one cup white sugar, three-quarters of a cup of water and a scant half teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Cook without stirring, and keep covered so that the steam washes the candy from the sides of the pan. As soon as the candy is cooked sufficiently so that a little dropped in cold water forms a soft ball of jellylike consistency, take from the fire and pour out on an oiled marble or platter. When cool enough to handle, pull until light colored. It should be a little sticky when you begin to pull or it will not be the right consistency later on. Now place on a slightly floured board, stretch out into a long narrow shape, fold in the centre a strip of French fondant, roll out into sticks three-quarters of an inch in diameter and with a pair of shears cut off in inch pieces. Place on a slightly floured platter. These "cups" should be brittle when first put into the mouth, but at once become soft and melting. WOODMERE FUDGE.— Stir to a cream two cupfuls of sugar and one tablespoonful of butter. Add from one-third to one-half cup of milk, put on the stove and allow it to come to a boil. Stir in two squares of grated chocolate or two teaspoonfuls of Baker's cocoa and a few drops of vanilla. Boil until it "hairs," take from the fire and stir until stiflf. Pour into buttered pans and cool. Cut in squares. JUJUBES. — Dissolve one pound of gum Arabic in a pint and a half of water. Strain and add one pound of sugar. Stir over a moderate fire and cook until the mixture toughens when dropped in cold water. It should be of thick consistency. Flavor as desired. Then turn while still warm, though partially cooled, into shallow tin pans, well oiled. Stand in a warm place to dry. When sufficiently dry to be elastic, take from the heat and stand in a cold place. When cold, turn from the pan and with a pair of old scissors cut first into strips, then blocks. If licorice jujubes are desired, soak two ounces of best Spanish licorice in a gill of hot water and add to the syrup when the bubbles begin to toughen. GRILLED ALMONDS. — Blanch a cupful of almonds, dry them thoroughly. Boil a cupful of sugar and a quarter of a cupful of water till it "hairs," then throw in the almonds; let them fry, as it were, in this syrup, stirring occasionally. They will turn a faint yellow brown before the sugar changes color; do not wait an instant once this change of color begins, or they will lose flavor; remove them from the fire and stir them until the syrup has turned back to sugar and clings irregu- larly to the nuts. You will find grilled almonds delicious to alternate at dinner with the salted almonds now so fashionable. CANDIES 163 CURL CANDY. — Boil some sugar until it reaches a hard crack and assumes a yellow tinge. Pour on an oiled marble and when partly cold gather together with a knife and divide into portions. Roll into lengths and flatten slightly and twist around an oiled stick half an inch in diameter to give the shape of a corkscrew. Flavor with orange or lemon while cooking. DOUBLE FUDGE.— Cook in a granite saucepan two cups of granu- lated sugar, one-half cup of cream, one tablespoonful of butter and two squares of chocolate shaved or grated. Cook seven minutes, then flavor with vanilla. Take from the fire and beat until thick. Spread in a buttered tin to cool. Put into the same saucepan two cups brown sugar, one-half cup cream, one level tablespoonful butter, one cup nutmeats chopped fine and cook ten minutes. Take from the fire, flavor lightly with vanilla, beat until creamy and pour on top of the fudge already in the pan. When cool cut in squares. WALNUT FUDGE. — Mix together one-half cup of brown sugar, one and a half cups of granulated sugar, half a cup of milk — cream is better-^and butter the size of a ping pong ball (or smaller). Cook over a medium fire until it will harden slightly in cold water. Add one cup of chopped nuts, take from the fire and stir vigorously until cold. Pour into a buttered pan and let it harden. IN THE PUTTING UP OF FRUIT HAT most housewives delight in the putting up of fruit, or at least take infinite pride at the close of the season in reviewing the serried ranks of "lucent syrups," all prop- erly labelled and arranged in order, ready to be brought out at a mo- ment's notice for the delectation of family and guests, is shown by the work appended. It is a feminine accomplishment giving far greater satisfaction to all concerned than the ability to strum out an indifferent rhapsody on the piano, tear a passion to tatters in elocution, paint marines that would cause even an oyster to weep, or "burn" cords of wood into designs neither beautiful nor artistic. Like all other housewifely duties, preserving may be made, easy or diflScult' according as it is done in the right or the wrong way. Among the A B C's of the art'are the following^suggestions: — ^Use only sound fruit and as soon as possible after gathering. Wash all fruit that comes from the market or that from home gardens if it has been exposed to dust or if any insecticide has been used in its vicinity. Be sure that jars, rubbers, tops and cooking paraphernalia are all sanitarily clean. Even if they were put away scrupulously clean they should be scalded before using. Never use tin or iron vessels for cooking fruit. Enam- elled or porcelain ware is best. Use silver or wooden spoons and silver knives, if the fruit is specially acid. CANNED BLUEBERRIES.— These will keep without sugar and taste more like the fresh fruit for use in pies, shortcakes and puddings. If preferred sweet, allow a half cup of sugar to a quart of berries, ex- cepting in the case of swamp berries, when a cup of sugar is none too much. In putting up without sugar, pick over and wash the berries, drain, then pack in jars, filling as full as possible. Pass a silver knife down around the sides to help them settle into place. Pour boiling 164 PRESERVES AND JELLIES 165 water over the fruit, going over and adding more boiling water as the fruit settles and absorbs the water. When filled to running over, screw air tight and keep in a cool, dark place. Have everjrthing in readiness before beginning the work of canning. The needful articles include pans, spoons, a wooden masher, strainers, fine and coarse, a grocers' funnel and small milk dipper, plenty of fine and coarse cheesecloth for straining jelly, a half pound of paraffine to be melted and used to cover jelly, enough cans and glasses so that you will not have to stop and send to the sfhre in the midst of your work, a quart cup for meas- uring and scales for weighing. For the small family pint cans will be found more convenient. Use the best granulated sugar, free from any bluish tinge, the purest spices and best cider vinegar. Arrange to do as much work as possible in the cool of the early morning and over a gas or oil stove, where the flame can be extinguished when not in use. Lastly, go to your task in a com- fortable but absolutely clean cotton gown and with a cheerful spirit. CANNING.— The success of canning depends upon perfect steriliza- tion. To this end the jars, covers, spoons and other utensils should be put on the stove in a kettle of cold water, allowed to come to the boiling point, then kept there at least fifteen minutes. There are several methods of can- ning. These are cooking the fruit packed in the cans in a larger vessel of boiling water, cooking the fruit in jars in the oven, cooking the fruit before putting in the jars, cooking in the sun, and, in the case of cran- berries, pieplant and green gooseberries, simply packing the cans, then filling every crevice with cold water and closing air tight. The cold water process is only possible with these three fruits, as their own acids are destroyers of germs. Fruits canned in the jars keep their shape better and are therefore more attractive to the eye than those which are cooked and then packed in the jar. The latter process, however, is quicker and easier for ordinary home use. In canning, the proportion of sugar varies according to the sweetness of the fruit and the use for which it is intended. Fruit that is to be used for sauce is best put up with sugar, while that intended for cooking purposes may be put up without any. For preserves, some fruits require pound for pound, and others half or three- quarters of a pound sugar to each pound of fruit. CANNED BLACKBERRIES.— Allow a cupful of sugar and a half cupful of water to each quart of blackberries. Boil and skim the syrup, add berries enough to cover the surface, cook slowly ten minutes, then skim out and add others until all are cooked. Return to the kettle, boil up once, then pour into sterilized jars and seal immediately. Blackberries may be preserved, allowing three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of berries. PRESERVED APPLES. — Boil one gallon new sweet cider down to two quarts. Pare, quarter and core half a bushel sweet apples. Put the cider in a granite or porcelain kettle and when it boils add as many apples 166 PRESERVES AND JELLIES as the kettle will hold. Cover closely and cook without stirring until the apples are tender. Skim out without breaking, add more apples and cook until all are done. Pour the syrup over the apples and set away to cool. The next day drain off the syrup, boil down until quite thick and again pour over the apples. The pieces of apple should be quite distinct and the juice of a jellylike consistency. PRESERVED APPLES NO. 2.— For six pounds rather tart apples use three pounds granulated sugar. Pare, quarter and core the apples and cook the skins in enough water to cover. Sprinkle the sugar over the apples and let them stand until the sugar is dissolved. Then strain the water from the skins and pour boiling hot over the apples. Let them stand until cold, then heat and pour the water again over the apples to harden them. Do this several times, add the juice and grated rind of one orange or lemon, and cook slowly until the pieces of apple seem clear. CANNED CHERRIES.— While the sour cherries are usually con- sidered best for doing up, the large white or red sweet cherries are not to be despised. Look over carefully to make sure there are no wormy ones, and pit or not, according to preference. Most people like the pits left in, think- ing they improve the flavor. Allow a cup of sugar to each jar of fruit. Put the cherries and sugar in layers in jars until nearly full. Arrange the jars in a boiler or kettle of warm water, with straw or a rack underneath to avoid breaking. Put in water enough to come nearly to the top of the jars, and put on the tops but not the rubbers. Let the water boil until the sugar in the jars has melted and formed a clear syrup. Meanwhile have more syrup boiling in another kettle, and as soon as the fruit is ready, which will be in five or ten minutes, take out the jars, one at a time, fill with the scalding syrup and seal at once. Fruit put up in this way is very good eaten as preserves, while it makes excellent pies, scarcely inferior to those made with fresh fruit. BARBERRY SAUCE WITH SWEET APPLES.— To a peck of sweet apples allow a half peck barberries and two quarts of molasses. Look over the berries carefully, removing stems and leaves, wash and put over to cook with water to float them. Add the molasses and cook gently until the berries are tender. Skim out the berries and put into the syrup as many of the apples, pared, quartered and cored, as the kettle will hold conveniently. As soon as tender put into the jar with the berries and boil the syrup down until thick. Pour over the fruit, let stand until the next day, scald all together once more, then put away in cans if you have plenty, or in a large stone jar. WILD GRAPE PRESERVES.— Take six pounds of green wild grapes. Cut them open on one side and carefully remove the seeds. Weigh the fruit and allow an equal weight of sugar. Put the prepared grapes in a kettle and pour on a little cold water, just enough to show at the top of the fruit. Boil, skim, then sprinkle over the fruit one-quarter of the PRESERVES, AND JELLIES 167 SUgaf kliowed. Bring to a boil, again pressing the grapes under the sjrup, but not breaking them. Add more sugar and cook five minutes, repeat- ing the operation until all the sugar is used. As soon as the syrup jellies turn into small jars and seal. When cold the grapes should show distinct in the clear jelly. Grape and elderberry preserves are made in the same way, allowing equal quantities of the fruits or half as much grape as elder- berry. The flavor of the grape combines well with the richness of the elder- berry, which lacks decided zest. GREEN GRAPE PRESERVES.— Take six pounds green grapes, preferably wild, cut them open one side and with a penknife remove the seeds. Weigh the fruit and measure out an equal weight of sugar. Put the prepared grapes in a kettle and pour over them a little cold water, just enough to show above the top of the grapes. Bring to a boil, then skim, and sprinkle over the fruit one-quarter the amount of sugar measured out. Bring to a boil, pressing the fruit under the syrup, but not breaking it. Add more sugar and cook twenty minutes, repeating this operation until all the sugar has been used. As soon as the syrup jellies when tested on a cold plate, turn into small jars and seal. When cold the grapes should show clearly in the jelly. PRESERVED PEACHES.— Select large and rather firm peaches, either the yellow Crawfords or white peaches as preferred. Peel with a silver knife or remove the skins as you would those of tomatoes by putting them a few at a time in a wire basket and dipping them into a kettle of boiling water, when the skins will rub off. Weigh them and allow three- quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. The peaches may be left whole if not too large to go in the can; otherwise cut in halves and add a few peach pits to each can for flavor. Make a syrup of sugar and just as little water as possible to dissolve it — a pint of cold water to threa pounds of sugar. When it boils skim clear, then add the peaches, a fevs? at a time, and cook them until transparent. Pack them in jars. Let tbft syrup boil half an hour after the peaches are out, then pour it over the^n*. and seal the jars. SPICED BLACKBERRIES.— These are delicious served with meat. Put seven pounds blackberries in the preserving kettle with three pounds sugar and a pint of cider vinegar. Tie in a cheesecloth bag two teaispoon- fuls each cloves, cinnamon, allspice and a teaspoonful nutmeg. Put the spices in with the fruit, sugar and vinegar and let stand two or three hours.. Place the kettle over the fife, bring slowly to a boil and cook about teu minutes. Take out the berries with a skimmer, and spread on a platter while the juice is cooked down to about half the original quantity. Pack the; berries in stone or glass jars, pour the syrup over them and seal. GRAPE AND ELDERBERRY PRESERVES— Grape and elder- berry preserves are made in the same way as green grape preserves, allow- ing eqttal qua*ititi«s of the fruit or half as much grape as elderberry. The fla- 168 PEESERVES AND JELLIES vor of the grape combines well with the richness of the elderberry, which lacks decided taste. BRANDIED PEACHES.— Make a syrup the same as for preserving; let it come to a boil, then skim; lay in peaches enough to cover the bottom of the preserving kettle and cook until they are tender and transparent, but not "mushy." Take out the fruit with a skimmer and place carefully in jars. Crack some of the pits, put in the syrup and cook fifteen minutes, or until slightly thickened; add brandy, half a cupful to each pound of fruit, and take at once from the fire; strain the hot syrup, then pour it over the peaches in the jars and seal at once. MORELLO CHERRY PRESERVE.— This is a Southern recipe and most delicious. Pick the cherries when full ripe, stem but do not pit. Prick each one with a pin to prevent their bursting. For each pound of cherries allow a pound and a half of loaf sugar. Roll part of the sugar, sprinkle over the cherries and let them stand over night. In the morning dissolve the rest of the sugar in a half pint of currant juice, put in the preserving kettle over a slow fire, add the cherries and simmer until they are tender but not broken. Take out carefully and put in glasses or jars, boil the syrup until thick, pour over the cherries and seal. SPICED GOOSEBERRIES.— Top and tail the berries and wash clean. Make a syrup, allowing three pints of sugar to one of vinegar. Skim, add the berries and boil down until quite thick. Add more sugar if it seems necessary, as it is better economy to be generous with sugar at preserving time than to have to boil them over later. When nearly done spice with cinnamon and cloves. CANNED PEARS. — In canning or preserving, pears need the addi- tion of some decided flavor such as ginger, lemon, grape juice or brandy. They may be cooked in the oven in a hot water bath or simply stewed. The amount of sugar required depends upon the acidity of the pears and in- dividual preference for sweet. A good proportion is two pounds of sugar to eight pounds of fruit. To make the syrup three quarts of water would be required. If your fruit is particularly fine, like ripe Bartletts, and you wish it to look specially attractive, peel, half and core the fruit, dropping each piece when ready into a pan of cold water. When all are cookedl make the syrup rich as is desired and spice to taste, and set back on the stove for ready reference. Have the cans sterilized and hot, pack in the prepared fruit and pour in enough of the scalding syrup to fill the jar full. Run a silver knife blade around the inside of the jar to let the air out and the syrup in. Set the tops on the cans, but not the rubbers, and place the jars in the oven in a shallow pan of hot water or on an asbestos mat. Cook fifteen minutes or until the fruit is tender, remove from the oven, put on the rubbers, fill where' the fruit has settled wtih more syrup so that it runs over, then seal. Wipe off the cans and set on a board or thick paper out of the draught. As the contents of the jar cool keep screwing PRESERVES AND JELLIES 169 the cover tighter. When quite cool wipe again and set away in a cool, dark closet. PRESERVED RIPE TOMATOES.— Scald and peel the tomatoes; to each pound of fruit allow one lemon and one pound of sugar; grate the yellow rind of the lemon and squeeze out the juice; put enough water with the sugar to dissolve it, skim the syrup well and add the tomatoes; cook gently for two hours. QUINCES (With Sweet Apples). — Sweet apples are often preserved with quinces, allowing one-third of quartered apples to two-thirds quince. The apples do not require as long cooking as the quinces, and must be re- moved from the kettle ten or fifteen minutes before the quinces. Put the quinces and apples in alternate layers in the cans, and pour the boiling syrup over, as with quinces alone. FIG PRESERVES.— Take the figs when nearly ripe and cut across the top in the form of a cross. Cover with strong salted water and let stand three days, changing the water every day. At the end of this time cover with fresh water, adding a few grape or fig leaves to color, and cook until quite green. Then put again in cold water, changing twice daily, and leave three days longer. Add a pound of granulated sugar to each pound of figs, cook a few moments, take from the fire and set aside two days. Add more sugar to make sweet, with sliced and boiled lemon or ginger root to flavor, and cook until tender and thick. STRAWBERRY PRESERVES.— To preserve according to the American custom, allow sugar pound for pound, but never let the berries that are to be canned stand in the sugar, as it extracts the juice and toughens the berry. Pack the fresh fruit into the cans, shaking down well, but taking care not to crush the berries. Have ready a hot syrup made of sugar and the juice squeezed from other smaller berries, and slowly pour the hot syrup over the fresh berries in the jars, leaving an inch space at the top. Have a common wash boiler half full of water that is about as warm as the hot syrup has made the jars. Set the cans on a wooden rack fitted to the bottom of the boiler, and place straw or kitchen towels between the cans to prevent their knocking together. Put the can covers on the cans, but leave off the rubbers. Bring to a boil, and as soon as the syrup in the jars rises, showing the contents to be scalding hot, lift the jars out on a dry board. Fill each brimmfng full with the scalding syrup which is left in the saucepan, put on the rubbers and screw on the covers as tightly as possible. Tighten again when cold, wrap each one in paper and set in a cool, dry cellar, where the temperature does not rise above 70 degrees. The celebrated Wiesbaden process, which is considered the very best rule for preserving strawberries, does not differ materially from this. A syrup is prepared from sugar and the juice of small berries, allowing five pounds of sugar to five pounds of juice. Let the sugar melt and come to the boil- ing point and boil two or three minutes. Skim well. Fill ten thoroughly 170 PRESERVES AND JELLIES sterilized cans with the large berries, selected from ten quarts, pour in the syrup, cover closely, leaving off the rubbers, however. Place the cans in boilers, pursuing the same precautions as just mentioned. Fill the boiler full of hot water to the necks of the cans, and let the canned berries remain in the water for five or ten minutes after it begins to boil. The straw- berries during this process will have risen to the top of the can and ab- sorbed some of the syrup. Fill the cans to overflowing with more syrup, put on the rubbers and screw up tight. Put up in this way, the berries will keep for years, retaining color and flavor. QUINCES (With Cider and Molasses), (Colonial).— Pare and halve the quince, removing the cores. Boil these in sweet cider until tender, then strain. For five pounds of quinces take a quart of nice molasses, a pound of brown sugar and the cider in which the quince parings have been cooked. Add the whites of two eggs, bring to a boil, remove from the fire and skim. Continue to boil and skim until perfectly clear. Then take off the fire, cool, put in the quinces and boil until tender. If there is not syrup to cover them full and plenty add more cider. Orange peel or a few slips of green ginger boiled in the syrup give a pleasant flavor. CANNED GOOSEBERRIES.— Pack the prepared fruit compactly in glass jars and pour over it a syrup made as follows: — Allow a generous cup and a half of sugar and a pint of water for each quart jar. Let this come to a good boil. Skim, cook ten minutes longer, then pour over the fruit in the jars and seal at once air tight. Gooseberries and rhubarb may also be kept by just lightly packing the jars with either, putting on the rubber, immersing under water in a vessel of cold water, and when the jars are full screw on the lids, still holding them under water so that no air can possibly get in. When taken out try, if possible, to tigTiten the lids even more. CANNED PEACHES. — Canned peaches are used more frequently for peach pies, peach meringues, puddings, shortcakes, creams and other iced desserts than the preserved. The latter put up with or without brandy need no stage setting. They are perfect as they are. The syrup for can- ning is usually made in the proportion of a cup of sugar to a pint of water; but the fruit will keep well if a much smaller quantity is used, pro'- viding it is sound and the air has been properly excluded from the jar. PRESERVED PINEAPPLES.— Select for this purpose the sugar loaf pineapple, which is longer than the strawberry and remains green even when nearly ripe. It is a pure white fruit with a shallow eye that can be easily peeled off. To test its ripeness pull one of the little spines sharply. If it comes out easily the fruit is in good condition for preserving. It is best to put up pineapples in a moderately heavy syrup. A good proportion is three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of the fruit measured after it has been peeled and cut into little cubes or torn into shreds with a fork. The choice Singapore pines that come canned in heavy syrup are PRESERVES AND JELLIES 171 cut in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, with the core cut out in circle shape, but this is not easily done in the ordinary canning. As fast as the fruit is prepared put into a large stone jar, layer by layer, with three-quar- ters of its weight in sugar between each layer. When all the pineapples are prepared put a cover on the jar and let it stand in the cellar or any cool place until the next morning. By that time the juice will have completely dissolved the sugar and a clear syrup will cover the fruit. Put the fruit and syrup in the preserving kettle, bring slowly to the boiling point, skim and cook slowly until tender but not "mushy," then can at once. The time required in the cooking may vary from five to thirty minutes, according to the ripeness of the fruit. For sorbets, punches and granites the pineapple has few equals. GREEN PRESERVED TOMATO.— Cut small, smooth, green to- matoes in halves, then quarter the halves. For every pound of the fruit use three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar. Allow the yellow rind of one lemon to each two pounds of fruit, grated or shaved thin, and the juice. Put the sugar in the preserving kettle with just enough water to dissolve it, add the tomato and lemon, and simmer gently until the tomato is tender and transparent. This will keep without sealing as a rule, but is better put in small jars or glasses covered airtight. It is so rich that only a little can be used at a time. WATERMELON PRESERVES.— While watermelon rinds are a drug in the market, an old-fashioned preserve may be added to the win- ter's supply of goodies with but little extra expense. With a very sharp knife peel off the outer green from watermelon rinds, leaving about a quarter inch of the firm white part. Cut into any shape desired, having the pieces uniform. If you wish the preserves green put into a kettle with alternate layers of grape leaves and tiny pieces of alum, not more than a half teaspoonful for a large kettle. Pour on hot water to cover, and simmer two hours. Drain, cover the fruit again with weak ginger water and sim- mer three hours longer. Drain, make a syrup, allowing to every pound of fruit a pound and a quarter of sugar and a pint of water. Boil ten min- utes, skimming constantly. Put in the rinds, simmer until tender, remove the fruit with a skimmer, pack in cans, boil the syrup until quite thick, then four over the fruit in the cans and seal. QUINCE PRESERVES.— Do not try to preserve quinces until they begin to turn yellow. If frost threatens gather and lay aside to ripen. When they are uniformly yellow have everything in readiness and "make a morning" of it, utilizing the skins and imperfect fruit for marmalade or jelly, while you preserve the finer fruit. In this way there will be no waste. Rub off the "fur" from yellow quinces, using a coarse towel, then pare, core and quarter, dropping the pieces into cold water to prevent discolora- tion. Save skins \and cores in a separate vessel for use later. When a goodly number of the quinces have been prepared put two layers of the quarters in a preserving kettle, cover with cold water and cook over a slow 172 PRESERVES AND JELLIES fire until the fruit is tender. Never make the mistake of boiling quinces in the sugar syrup before cooking them tender in water or steaming tender. Sugar hardens uncooked quinces. When tender enough to pierce easily with a fork, skim out and lay on a platter while the rest of the quinces are cooking. When all have been cooked strain the water and to each pint of juice allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar. Cook gently for ten minutes, skimming until clear, then put in as many pieces as the syrup will cover. Simmer gently for half an hour or until the quinces turn a rich red, then lift out with a silver spoon, dropping piece by piece into wide mouthed glass jars. Have the cans hot to prevent breaking. Let the syrup cook a little longer, then pour over the fruit, filling so full that the juice runs over the sides, then seal. TUTTI-F.RUTTI.— Pineapple is usually the first ingredient to go into the tutti-frutti jar, which, by the way, can be continued year after year, as its contents never spoil. Only the lighter fruits are used, as black- berries, huckleberries or blackcaps spoil the color. Put a pint of good French brandy into a stone jar holding several gallons. Then begin add- ing fruit and sugar pound by pound as the various fruits come in season. No cooking is required. Shred the pineapple or cut in cubes, as preferred; pit cherries and plums; cut the white grapes in halves and seed them, and slice peaches, pears, bananas, oranges, &c. Strawberries and red raspberries make delicious additions, and gooseberries may be used unless the seeds are objectionable. No more brandy will be required. Not only does the tutti- frutti furnish a delightful preserve, but a rich filling for tarts and pies on festal occasions, or the fruit creams and puddings that crown the feast. A teaspoonful of the brandy makes a valuable and unusual flavoring for cakes, custards and the like. YELLOW TOMATO PRESERVES.— Allow a pound sugar to each pound tomatoes and a half cup water to each pound fruit. Cover the toma- toes with boiling water, then skim. Make a syrup of the sugar, and when boiling skim and add the tomatoes. Have ready a sliced lemon that has been cooked in boiling water and a little sliced ginger. Add to the toma- toes. Cook until they are clear, remove, pack in jars, cook the syruo until thick, pour over and seal. GINGERED PEARS.— This is particularly nice served with ice cream or muskmelon. To eight pounds of pears chopped very thin allow four pounds or less of sugar, one cupful of water, the juice and thin yel- low rind of four lemons (be sure they are not bitter) and one-eighth pound or more of green ginger root, scraped and cut in thin slices. Bring the sugar and water to a boil, add the fruit, ginger and lemon, then simmer three-quarters of an hour or until the consistency of marmalade. STRAWBERRY TOMATO PRESERVES.— To a pint of the fruit allow a half ounce sugar and one lemon. Add enough water to the sugar to dissolve it, bring it to a boil and skim. Skin the tomatoes and add to PRESERVES AND JELLIES 173 the syrup. Slice the lemon thin, cover with boiling water and cook until the rind is tender. Cook the tomatoes until well heated through, skim out and put into jars. Add the cooked lemon slices to the syrup, cook down until quite thick, pour over the fruit and seal. JELLIES, JAMS AND MARMALADES.— In making jellies of the larger fruits, such as apples, quinces, crab apples or pears, they do not need peeling or coring, for the skins and seeds improve both the quality and color of the jelly. Simply slice or quarter, put into the preserving kettle with water enough to nearly cover the fruit and simmer until tender. Take from the fire, strain and proceed as in making the jellies of smaller fruits. A clear day should be selected for the making of all jellies, and it seems a little finer if set to cool in the sunlight. The fruit must be sound and not over ripe. It should be used as soon as possible after gathering, as most fruits lose quality by standing. Quinces and some pears are the exception. Hints About Preserving.— Use only granulated sugar and avoid that with a bluish cast. The utensils used should be kettles, colanders and ladles of porcelain or granite ware, the spoons of silver or wood, earthenware bowls and glass tumblers. The jelly should be poured at once into glasses and allowed to remain, as moving about is apt to disturb the process of solidifying. The jelly bag may be made of thin flannel, coarse linen or fine cheesecloth. It is better shaped like a cone, with a strong string or tape run around the neck for suspending it to drip. Do not squeeze unless you care to take the chance of its being cloudy. If you wish to use the remainder left after dripping squeeze and keep it separate for mincemeat or any other culinary purposes where the color does not matter. The boiling syrup may be poured directly into glasses without danger of their cracking if they are rolled in hot water and then left standing on a damp cloth. A silver spoon left in the glass will also prevent cracking, as the silver is a good conductor of heat. If you lack glasses, glass bottles can be cut down for jelly cups by making a deep mark with a file at the desired height, then following it around with a hot iron, when it will crack off. When cooking the juice if it shows signs of boiling over and the kettle is too heavy to lift at a moment's notice, a spoonful of cold water will settle it like magic. It is a good plan to keep special cloths and holders to use during the jelly making, as the stains are difficult to remove. In making jelly it must be borne in mind that the less stirring there is the better. If stirred too much the jelly will not be clear, while the tendency of sugar to granulate is also increased by stirring. A good test for the consistency of jelly when boiling is to let it drop from a spoon. If the last drop sticks to the spoon it is sufficiently hard. Filling Glasses. — In filling the glasses fill to the brim, for in the process of cooling they will shrink enough to allow for the pouring on of a 174 PRESERVES AND JELLIES quarter of an inch of melted paraffine, which will keep out the air and pre- serve the jelly. To Prepare the Paraffine. — Get half a pound of paraffine and shave it into a pitcher or small dish from which it can be easily poured and melt by setting into hot water or over the tea kettle. While the jelly is still warm pour a layer of paraffine over the top. It can then be covered with the usual tin cover or simply wrapped with paper, as there is no danger of spoiling. When needed for the table slip off the paraffine and put it away to be! used again. The Comparative Cost of Jelly. — In estimating the comparative cost of jelly and marmalade, jelly will be found to be worth twice as much as the marmalade. Jelly costs about two-thirds of the price of the fruit used, the marmalade one-third. Where to Keep Jellies^ — All jellies should be kept where it is cool and dark. If you have no dry cellEtr or dark closet cover the shelves of any cool closet with black cotton and hang a curtain of the same over the fruit. BARBERRY JELLY.— As soon as the berries have felt the first tinge of frost, which gives them a dark, rich color and the "tang" that makes the jelly so delightful, gather. Free the berries from stems, wash, and to every two quarts allow a half cup water. Cook until the juice presses out easily, take from the fire, mash, strain and measure the juice. To a pint of juice allow a generous pound of sugar, for barberries require more sugar than most fruits. Heat the sugar the same as usual in making jellies, and add to the juice, after it has cooked the regulation twenty minutes. Cook five minutes after the sugar is added, then turn into the glasses, sealing when cold. CURRANT AND RAISIN CONSERVE.— Cut in halves and seed two pounds of large raisins, put them in a quart of water and simmer slowly for an hour. At the same time stem and wash seven pounds of currants and cook in a jar set in a pan of hot water until they are soft. Now add the pulp, peel, and juice of two oranges, half a lemon (the peel and pulp minced fine) to the currants and raisins, together with six pounds of sugar. Boil gently to a jam, and put up in small glasses, covered with paraffine. This is an excellent relish to serve with cold meats. APPLE BUTTER. — This may be made of sweet or sour apples, or half and half. Boil a gallon of fresh cider down to one-half of its original bulk. Quarter the apples, peel and core and cut in small pieces. Put into the boiling cider as many of the apples as can cook at a time without burn- ing. When the apples are soft, skim out, add more and so on until all are cooked. Then mash as soft as possible, put all together again in the cider and simmer gently until about half their original bulk and as thick as mar- PRESERVES AND JELLIES 175 tnalade. Stir often with a smooth wooden spoon or flat stick, taking a great deal of pains not to let the "butter" stick on the bottom. It is the part of wisdom to keep one of the asbestos mats under the kettle during the last hour or two. Turn into small stone crocks and keep in a cool, dry place. If you wish the apple butter to have a spicy flavor allow one teaspoon ful each of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice to each gallon of the sauce, putting it in when nearly done. This simple sweet makes a good appetizer at break- fast and finds favor with the children for their luncheons when spread on bread. An occasional variation is furnished by adding chopped butternut or walnut meats to the butter before spreading. BARBERRY JELLY (No. 2).— The barberry should be picked late, after it is touched with the frost, and the fruit is a deep crimson. If you are in the country, these berries, which grow wild, can be had for the picking, and the jelly made from them is almost as clear and quite as de- licious as that from currants. As the fruit is extremely acid, a pound of sugar will be required for each pint of the fruit juice. Pick over the berries and wash them. Put in the preserving kettle with just a little water to keep them from sticking, and cook until the juice will press out easily. Remove from the fire, mash, strain and turn into a jelly bag to drain. Do not squeeze it or the jelly will not be clear. Boil the juice twenty minutes, skim, and add the sugar, which should have been heated in the oven. Stir until the sugar is all dissolved, take out the spoon, cook five minutes longer, or until the syrup will thicken on a cold saucer. Pour into glasses, and when cold cover. The English way of making barberry jelly is to allow a pound of raisins to every five pounds of fruit, then proceed as above, while the New England housewife frequently adds a dozen sour apples, cored and quartered, to every four quarts of the berries. CHERRY JAM. — Stone the cherries and allow, after weighing, an equal quantity of sugar. Place in a porcelain lined preserving kettle and let stand in a cold place over night. In the morning cook until the jam jellies on the spoon, then turn into pots. CANDIED CRANBERRIES.— While economy is the watchword, here are directions for making candied cranberries to take the place in cakes, confections or decorations of the more expensive cherries. Use for this purpose the Cape Cod berries, half as much sugar as berries and half as much water as sugar. Put the berries in a deep agate or porcelain dish, pour the sugar on top like a crust and the water on top of that. Cook very slowly. When they break into a boil, cover just a few moments — ^not long or the skins will burst — then uncover and cook until tender. Take up care- fully and spread on oiled plates to dry. CRAB APPLE JELLY.— Wash, remove blossom ends, but do not peel or core. Cut in rather small pieces, cover with cold water and cook gently until soft. Keep on an asbestos mat or in a larger kettle of hot water to prevent the apples burning. 176 PRESERVES AND JELLIES When very soft, turn into a jelly bag and hang over night to drip. In the morning measure the clear red liquid, bring to a boil and skim. Allow for every pint of liquid the usual pound of sugar and have it heating in the oven while the juice is scalding. Add to the juice, after it has cooked just twenty minutes, stir until dissolved, take out the spoon, cook five min- utes longer, skim and turn at once into the heated cups and glasses. This jelly is inexpensive and of excellent appearance and flavor. If you desire variety, flavor part of the juice with lemon or pineapple and some with rose geranium. For the later lay a leaf in the bottom of the glass before pouring in the hot jelly. For the lemon or pineapple allow two table- spoonfuls of the juice to a quart of the apple juice. The jelly may also be spiced, adding a little vinegar, clove and cinnamon to season at the same time the sugar is added, BLACKBERRY JAM. — Look over a gallon of blackberries, wash and drain. Put in a preserving kettle, pour in a pint of water and cook until soft, stirring and mashing with a wooden spoon to break up the fruit. Take care that it does not scorch. Remove from the fire and press through a wire sieve into a stone jar. Do not use tin. Stir this pulp thoroughly. Take a quart of the pulp and put in a kettle with a quart of sugar measured light and previously heated in the oven. Bring to a boil, cook rapidly for fifteen or twenty minutes, until it jellies when dropped in a cold saucer. Pour into small jars and when cold seal. Repeat the cooking with another quart of the pulp until all has been used. The jam is easier and better pre- pared a quart at a time. It is a good plan in hot weather to prepare the berries one day, set away in the cellar and make the jam in the cool of the next morning. CRANBERRY JELLY.— Wash and pick over the fruit, and to each quart of the fruit allow a cup of water. Cover and cook for ten minutes. Mash and strain through a flannel bag. Return the juice to the ke):tle, add two cups of sugar which has been heated in the oven, boil until it jellies on the edges, which will be in about ten minutes, and pour into the glasses. GREEN CURRANT JAM.— To make green currant jam, pick the currants from the stem, put in a preserving kettle and set in a larger kettle of boiling water, or over a gentle fire, to dry out superfluous juice. Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit; boil quickly for thirty minutes, or less if it shows signs of jelling. Stir and skim often. Turn into jars and cover when cold. GREEN GRAPE JAM.— Pick the grapes from the stems and remove the seeds with a sharp knife. Allow a pound of sugar ,to each pound fruit. Put the grapes in a preserving kettle with a little water and cook twenty minutes. Add the sugar and cook until a drop "jells" when tested. Remove from fire and pour in glasses. PRESERVES AND JELLIES 177 WILD GRAPE JELLY.— Strip the fruit from the stem, wash and put in a pan or jar set in a larger vessel of hot water. Cook until the grapes are broken ; then strain. Measure the juice, and for every pint allow a pound of sugar. Put the juice over the fire and the sugar in shallow pans in the oven, where it will heat, but not turn yellow. Cook the juice twenty min- utes, skimming all impurities from it, add the sugar, stir until dissolved, re- move the spoon, cook a moment or two longer until the liquid jellies when dropped on a cold plate; pour into jelly glasses and cover when cold. Wild Grape and Crab Apple Jelly. — For this combination, which has an especially fine "tang," unequal quantities of crab apple and wild green grapes. Cut the applies in quarters, but do not peel or core ; cook until soft, then strain and add to the grape juice. Wild Grape and Elderberry Jelly. — ^This is another delicious combi- nation of flavors. Add four pints of green grape pulp to eight pints of elderberry juice, all strained, then allow a pound of sugar to each pint of juice and proceed as usual. CURRANT JELLY.— Currants for jelly should not be over ripe, hence the old wives' tradition that currant jelly will not "jell" after July 4. Neither should they be gathered after a rain if a firm, clear jelly is desired. Equal parts of red and white currants, or raspberries and currants, two parts of the former to one of the latter, making a delicately colored and flavored jelly that many people prefer to the plain currant. Put the currants in the stone jar or preserving kettle, and set this in a larger pan of hot water. As it begins to heat, mash with a large wooden pestle until the currants are reduced to a pulp. Scoop up the pulp and put in the jelly bag to drain. This is best done the night before the jelly making proper begins, and the bag is then left suspended over night to drip with- out squeezing, which is apt to make the juice cloudy. When the juice is all extracted measure by pints and put into a clean preserving kettle. Weigh out as many pounds of sugar as there are pints of juice and place on shallow tins in the oven to heat. Do not allow the sugar to get hot enough to become dikcolpred. Boil the juice just twenty minutes from the time it begins to boil, then pour the heated syrup in, stirring rapidly all the while. As soon as it is dissolved, skim, remove the spoon, let the juice just come to a boil again and remove at once from the fire. Roll the jelly glasses sideways in hot water, then fill with the scalding liquid. Cool, then coat with melted paraifine or one-third paraffine to two-thirds wax, which will keep out the air and preserve the jelly. Seal with manila or writing paper, saturated with the white of egg, unless you have regular jelly tumblers, with glass or metal top, in which case the paraffine suffices. Keep in a cool, dark, dry place. GRAPE JAM. — For this use the smaller Concord grapes or the late Isabellas. Stem, weigh and wash. Measure out a pound of sugar for each pound of uncooked grapes. Put the grapes in a large preserving kettle with 178 PRESERVES AND JELLIES just enough water to keep them from sticking on the bottom. Cook gently for half or three-quarters of an hour, then press through a colander fine enough to keep the seeds from coming through. Add the sugar, stir well and work gently until it drops from the spoon in a jellylike consistency. Skim if needed, and when as thick as you desire turn into glasses. BLUE GRAPE JELLY.— Use, if possible, the late Isabella grapes, or, if not, grapes that are underripe; any fruit that is full ripe is unfit for jelly; pick the grapes from the stems, wash and put in a pan or jar; set in a larger vessel of hot water; cook until the grapes are broken, then put a square of cheesecloth over a colander and set the colander over a bowl, turn in the grapes and let them drip without any pressure ; measure the juice and allow a pound of sugar for every pint of juice; put the juice over the fire and the sugar in shallow pans in the oven, where it will heat but not turn yellow; cook the juice twenty minutes, skimming all im- purities from it; add the sugar; stir until dissolved, remove the spoon, cook a moment or two longer until the liquid jellies when dropped on a cool plate; pour into jelly glasses and cover when cold. GRAPE BUTTER.— Pulp ripe or half ripened grapes and cook the pulp until soft enough to rub through a colander. Add the skins and cook until tender. Add sugar, allowing to each pound fruit a half pound sugar, or more if the grapes are quite green. Cook until thick, stirring often, then can. GRAPE AND ORANGE JAM.— To six pounds grapes allow two pounds raisins, four pounds sugar and four oranges. Cut off the thin yellow rind of the oranges and chop fine, together with the seeded raisins. Pulp the grapes and cook until soft enough to rub through a colander. Add to the skins, cook fifteen minutes, put in raisins, orange peel, juice and sugar and simmer gently until jellied. WILD GRAPE MARMALADE.— Take the wild green grapes, cut open with a sjnall knife and remove the seeds. Allow a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Put the grapes in the preserving kettle with a little water and boil twenty minutes. Add the sugar and cook until a drop poured in a cold saucer will hold its shape. Remove ai once and pour in cups or glasses. In putting up the winter store of jellies it is always a good plan to fill some small cheese pots or egg cups for use in the children's lunch baskets. GRAPE RELISH.— Pick from the stems seven pounds of grapes, rather under ripe, and separate the pulp from the skins. Put the skins in a preserving kettle over the fire, with just enough water to prevent their burning. Place the pulp in another kettle and cook until the seeds loosen. Press through a sieve and add to the skins with a half pint vinegar, three pounds of sugar and a teaspoonful each cloves, allspice and cinnamon. Boil until thick. This is fine to serve with game or roast meats. PRESERVES AND JELLIES 179 PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.— Use perfectly ripe, sweet pines. Slice and pare, then cut into small pieces. Allow three-fourths pound sugar to each pound fruit, mix in granite or porcelain bowl and let stand over night, preferably on ice. In the morning take from ice, and cook gently for an hour. At the end of this time press through a fruit crusher or coarse sieve with a potato masher. Replace on stove and cook half an hour longer until clear and golden in color, and until it curls gently when the finger is thrust through it. Place in little pots. LEMON MARMALADE. — To six pounds lemons take nine pounds sugar. Peel the lemons, then cover the yellow parings with water and boil until tender. Drain and let cool, then shred the parings fine. Meantime halve the peeled fruit crosswise and press out juice and soft pulp. Cover the shells of white pulp remaining with three pints cold water, and boil one-half hour. Strain off this liquor and add it to the juice and soft pulp with the yellow rinds. Boil all together, then add the heated sugar. Boil down to the consistency required, and place while boiling hot in small jars or marmalade pots. ARIZONA ORANGE MARMALADE.— Wash thoroughly, using a scrubbing brush in the operation, one dozen oranges and half a dozen lemons. Slice thin and remove the seeds. Pour one gallon of cold water over the sliced fruit, reserving a little to cover the seeds. Soak all for thirty-six hours. Strain off the water from the seeds, add to the soaked oranges with an equal amount sugar and cook for two hours, stirring fre- quently. This is not as bitter as the ordinary marmalade, while the gela- tine of the seeds adds a richer body to the marmalade. In making any kind of marmalade do not allow it to overcook, which spoils the clear golden tint so desirable. v QUINCE MARMALADE.— Put the cooked pulp through a puree sieve, and allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit. Boil, stirring almost constantly until smooth and firm. Put in jars, cover with paraffine, and keep in a dry place. Quince Cheese. — This is a simple marmalade, boiled down very thick and packed in the small cheese pots. This can be turned out and sliced like cheese and is excellent for the lunch basket. BITTER SCOTCH MARMALADE.— Seville oranges are best for this marmalade, which is held in high esteem at British breakfasts. To make it according to an old Scotch recipe press the juice out of a number of oranges, then put the rinds in the preserving kettle with plenty of water to cover, and cook until soft, adding more water as it boils away. When very soft turn into a stout jelly bag and squeeze out all the jelly obtain- able. Mix with the uncooked juice, and to every pint allow a pound and a half of sugar. Cook twenty minutes, then test by dropping a little on a cold plate. Push your fingers through it and if it curls take from the fire 180 PRESERVES AND JELLIES and pour at once into small pots or glasses. Let stand over night uncov- ered, then tie with brandied paper or cover with paraffin. PEACH LEATHER.— This is an old Virginia dainty, popular for the school children's lunch basket. Take a peck of ripe, freestone peaches, mash after peeling and pitting, then press the pulp through a coarse sieve. To four quarts of the pulp allow one pint soft sugar, preferably brown. Mix well, cook about two minutes, stirring all the time, then spread on plates and dry in the sun. If the weather is hot, three days will suffice. When the paste on the edges looks like leather and cleaves from the plate readily if a knife is passed around the edge, it is ready. Dust with white sugar, then roll up. If stored in a dry place it will keep for several months. ORANGE AND RHUBARB MARMALADE.— String and cut in half inch pieces five pounds pink skinned rhubarb. Divide twelve oranges in sections, removing seeds and the tough part of the skin. Put into a pre- serving kettle, heat slowly to the boiling point, and simmer half an hour. Add four pounds sugar, cook gently for two hours, then turn into glasses. RIVERSIDE MARMALADE.— Firm fruit of medium size, prefer- ably Washington navels, are the best for this attractive looking marmalade With a very sharp knife slice off the thick ends of six oranges and two) lemons, and then cut in halves longitudinally. This is easily done by rest- ing the flat side of the fruit on a board, holding it firm with one hand and slicing with the other, making half circle pieces, which look pretty in the finished product. Cover with two quarts cold water and let stand over night, in the morning bring to a boil, cook forty minutes, then add five pounds sugar well heated in the oven, and boil rapidly twenty minutes longer. If the oranges are very ripe the juice of two more oranges and six lemons is an improvement. PINEAPPLE CHIPS.— The pines should be sliced thin and pared, placed on dishes and covered thickly with powdered sugar. For ten days these dishes must be kept in a slow oven or other heated place, and the slices turned each day. At the expiration of this time place the slices in a quick oven for just ten minutes, then remove, cool and place between layers of paper, with powdered sugar sifted over the fruit. STRAWBERRY JAM.— Weigh the fruit after hulling and washing and allow for eacli pound a good three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Put the fruit over the fire in the preserving kettle and cook half an hour, stir- ring often. Add the sugar, boil twenty minutes longer, skim thoroughly and put boiling hot in air tight jars. Keep in a cool, dry place. A pint of red currant juice added to every four pounds of berries makes a delightful variation. Boil the currant juice with the strawberries. PEACH ENCHO. — Measure out seven pounds of peaches, peeled, then slice or cut in halves, three pounds and a half of sugar and a pint PRESERVES AND JELLIES 181 of vinegar. Put into a porcelain or granite kettle with two tablespoon fuls -whole cinnamon or cassia buds and a tablespoonful whole cloves tied in a lace bag. Cook with the fruit until it is spiced to taste, then remove the bag. Cook the peaches until a^ thick as marmalade, stirring frequently,, and talcing care not to scorch, then put into cans and seal. RHUBARB JAM. — Allow to each pound cut rhubarb one pound sugar and one lemon. Peel the yellow rind off thin, remove the white part and slice the pulp into a bowl, rejecting the seeds. Cut the rhubarb into half inch pieces and put in the bowl on top of the lemon. Then add the sugar and stand away over night. In the morning empty into the pre- serving kettle and boil slowly for three-quarters of an hour, stirring fre- quently. Take from the fire, cool a little and pour into jars. Cover with brandied paper. PEACH MARMALADE. — When canning or pickling peaches, save the parings and the soft or unshapely pieces. If clingstones, there will be considerable pulp adhering to the pits. Cover these with cold water and simmer until soft. Rub through a sieve, then boil again twenty minutes. Add three-quarters of the weight in sugar, and cook, stirring often until thick. RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM.— Wash three pounds of young rhubarb, the tender pink skinned kind, then cilt in pieces two inches in length. Put three pounds of oranges in the preserving kettle, with plenty of cold water, and simmer three hours. Drain and cut each in four pieces. Put six pounds of granulated sugar in the kettle, with just enough water to prevent sticking, and stir with wooden paddle until it boils. Add the oranges and rhubarb, stir until boiling, moving to the edge of the fire, and simmer fifteen minutes. Turn into glasses, but do not cover until cold. Then put on first a round of brandied paper, then the ordinary glass or tin cover, or else a thickness of absorbent cotton. This is an old English recipe. If one objects to its bitter taste, the orange seeds can be removed before cooking. RAISINE. — To make this famous French marmalade allow an equal weight of grapes and pears, cook in a little water until soft, then press through a colander to remove the seeds. Add the pears, cored and sliced, and simmer until thick, stirring almost constantly. When thick, sweeten to taste, scald, strain through a colander and can. RHUBARB AND FIG JAM.— To five pounds tender rhubarb, washed and cut in inch pieces, allow one pound figs (the dried), the grated yellow rind and juice of one lemon, and four pounds sugar. Let this stand all night. The next day cook slowly for an hour, then turn into glasses. Nuts can be added if desired. RHUBARB AND ORANGE MARMALADE.— Peel the /yellow rind from half a dozen oranges, rejecting all the bitter white. Cut the 182 PRESERVES AND JELLIES pulp in small pieces, taking care that no seeds go in. Put the pulp and peel, cut in fine strips, in the preserving kettle, together with two pounds of rhu- barb cleaned but not peeled, and cut in inch pieces, and a pound and a half of sugar. Simmer until the orange peel is tender and the marmalade thick, then put in glasses or little cheese jars. CUCUMBER CATSUP.— Select large, nearly ripe cucumbers, peel, remove the seeds, chop or grate fine and measure. Place the pulp in a colander and sprinkle with salt, allowing a teaspoonful to each pint. Drain for six hours. Measure. To each quart allow two cups of cider vinegar, or white wine if preferred, four tablespoonfuls grated horseradish and a tablespoonful each minced red pepper, excluding the seeds, and white mus- tard seed. Bring vinegar and flavoring to a scald, skim well, then set aside to get thoroughly cold. Now add to the cucumber pulp, stir well, put into wide mouthed bottles or pint fruit cans, lay a horseradish, grape or nastur- tium leaf over the top and seal. Keep in a cool, dark place. BLACKBERRY CATSUP.— Cover mashed berries with boiling water, simmer fifteen minutes, press again and strain. Allow for each quart juice a half teaspoonful each mace, cinnamon, pepper and white mustard. Cook down to about a quarter of the original quantity, add vinegar (pure) to make strength and consistency required, then bottle and seal while hot. CHERRY CATSUP.— To each pound stoned cherries allow a pound of sugar. Boil together until the cherries are soft, then strain. To each quart of this liquor allow a teaspoonful each of mace, pepper, ginger, cin- namon and a half teaspoonful of cloves. Boil with the syrup and strain; then add to the crushed fruit that has been pressed through a puree sieve. Boil until thick ; reduce with strong vinegar and bottle. OLD FASHIONED TOMATO CATSUP.— For a good catsup made from the ripe tomatoes, try this: — Slice without peeling nine quarts tomatoes, not too ripe. Pack in a large porcelain kettle, draining off as much of the clear juice as possible. Add to the tomatoes four table- spoonfuls salt, two of allspice, one of cinnamon, three-quarters of a table- spoonful cloves, a teaspoonful black pepper and a half teaspoonful cayenne. Pour over all, three cups good vinegar. Cover the kettle and simmer gently on the back of the stove for three or four hours, not allowing it to stop* simmering. Take from the fire and let the catsup cool in the kettle. When cold strain and bottle, sealing closely. MUSHROOM CATSUP.— Break firm, fresh mushrooms into quar- ters. Put a layer in the bottom of an earthen vessel, sprinkle with salt, then add more mushrooms and more salt until all are used. Cover and set on the cellar floor for three days, stirring with a wooden spoon three times each day. At the end of this time mash to a pulp and strain through cheesecloth, squeezing out all the juice. Cook this ten minutes, then meas~ PRESERVES AND JELLIES 18S ure. To each pint of the liquor allow a generous teaspoonful each whole peppers and allspice, two slices of onion, a blade of mace, a dash of paprika, and a couple of bay leaves. Cook until thick, strain, cool and bottle. Seal tightly. GRAPE CATSUP. — Stem and wash five pounds grapes and cook iri a bowl set within a large pan of water until soft and mushy. Strain through a sieve to exclude seeds and coarse skins. Add one pound of sugar, a pint vinegar, a teaspoonful each cloves, cinnamon and allspice, and a tablespoon- ful pepper. Cook until a little thicker than thick cream, then bottle. APPLE AND TOMATO CHUTNEY.— Remove the seeds from two green peppers and a cup of raisins, add six green tomatoes and four small onions and chop all very fine. Put one quart of vinegar, one cup of powdered sugar and two of brown sugar, two tablespoon fuls of mustard seed and two of salt to boil. Add the chopped mixture and simmer one hour. Then add a dozen tart apples, pared, cored and quartered, and cook slowly until soft. Beat thoroughly and bottle. LEMON CATSUP.— Mix one tablespoonful grated horseradish with the grated rind of four lemons. Add a teaspoonful salt, the juice of the lemons, a dessertspoonful each white mustard seed and celery seed, a few blades of mace, four cloves and a dash of red pepper. Boil thirty-five minutes, then bottle while hot. In five or six weeks this will be ready to serve with fish. CHUTNEY. — Chutney is one of the most appetizing relishes to keep on hand, yet is expensive to buy. Nearly all chutneys improve with age, growing richer and mellower with time. As they almost never spoil, they* are an encouraging preparation of fruit to work with, the housewife secur© in the feeling that her efforts and material will not be wasted. They are deemed especially desirable for dyspeptics and are largely used by the Eng* lish residents in India as aids to digestion. APPLE CHUTNEY. — A simple apple chutney is made by cooking' together in a quart and a half of cider vinegar fourteen large, sour apples, ten large onions and two cloves of garlic. When soft, rub throijgh a sieve, steep four tablespoonfuls of mustard seed in vinegar to cover, then m^sh, Add this with one cupful of brown sugar, half a cup of salt, four table-, spoonfuls of ginger and a half pound of seeded raisins chopped fine to th^ apples, onions, garlic and vinegar. Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and evenly blended and about the consistency of French mustard. When cold, put up in wide mouthed bottles and seal. An excellent way is to pour a very little olive oil over the top of the pickle, which shuts out alt air, the bearer of ferment germs and mould. Over the oil place a thin found of sterilized cotton or wool and over that in turn a roBnd $>f |;la?ed paper wet with the white of an egg. 184 PRESERVES AND JELLIES GREEN PEPPER CATSUP.— Take the seeds from five pounds bull-nosed peppers and lay in a porcelain kettle holding about' two and a half quarts. Add a couple large onions chopped fine and a half table- spoonful each of cinnamon, cloves, allspice and mace. Pour in vinegar to nearly fill the kettle, and simmer three hours or longer. Rub through a puree sieve, cool and bottle. GREEN TOMATO CATSUP.— Chop fine seven pounds green toma- toes and four red peppers, excluding the seeds. Add one quart vinegar, and cook together two hours. Now add one pound brown sugar, two table- spoonfuls salt and two of mustard, one teaspoonful ground cloves, one tablespoonful cinnamon and the same amount allspice. Boil two hours longer, strain and seal. SAN DIEGO CHILI SAUCE.— To one gallon ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced, allow three large onions and two green peppers chopped fine, three-fourths of a cup of good vinegar, one-half cupful of sugar, or less if preferred; three tablespoonfuls of salt and three teaspoonfuls each of cinnamon and cloves. Cook slowly until the consistency desired, then bottle. AUBURN CUCUMBER PICKLES.— For two hundred small cu- cumbers allow one coifee cup salt. Rinse the cucumbers, taking care not to bruise the skins. Pack in a firkin or jar, with the salt distributed be- tween the layers. Cover with boiling water and let stand twenty-four hours. Pour off the water and wipe dry on a soft towel. Put into your preserv- ing kettle a scant gallon cider vinegar, a full coffee cup sugar, two small red peppers chopped fine (excluding all seeds but two or three) one tefispoon- ful alum and three tablespoonfuls white mustard seed. Bring to a good scald and cover the pickles, which may be kept in glass cans or a stone jar. A horseradish or grape leaf laid over the jar will keep the vinegar from moulding. The use of a little sugar even with sour pickles is to be commended, as it gives the pickles a mellow taste and preserves the vinegar. CHERRY VINEGAR.— When cherries are ripe don't forget to put up some cherry vinegar. Mash slightly two quarts cherries and pour over them one quart vinegar. Pour in an earthen bowl, cover and set in a cool place for two days. Strain through a muslin bag, and to each pint liquid add three- fourths pound sugar. Place over the fire and boil fifteen minutes; bottle and seal. MANGOES. — ^These good, old-fashioned, home-made pickles, which our grandmothers patterned after East Indian preparations, are again in the height of gastronomic style, and the woman who knows how to make them may be sure that they will never go to waste on her hands. They may be made from small green melons, water or musk melons, green tomatoes, large cucumbers, peppers, peaches— any fruit, in fact, from which the inside seeds or stone can be removed, the cavity filled with a sweet or sour pickle mix- PRESERVES AND JELLIES 185 ture and the opening closed so as to give the appearance of a whole fruit. When melons are used, cut out a wedge large enough to scoop out the seeds and soft portions. For peppers or green tomatoes, cut a circular piece from the stem end and remove the seeds. Then put the pieces in place again and soak over night in brine. In the morning drain, taking pains to keep the separated parts of the same fruit or vegetables together. For the filling use firm white cabbage, chopped very fine, with a quarter as much celery, cucumber, green tomato or green peppers. Sprinkle well with salt and stand aside for several hours. Drain, and to each pint of the vegetables add a small onion, a few nasturtium seeds, a teaspoonfut of mustard seed and salt, pepper, ginger, cloves, allspice and cinnamon to taste. Mix thoroughly, fill the cavities, packing in closely, fit in the pieces that belong in and wrap firmly with twine. Cover with vinegar and let the pickle stand over night. In the morning heat all together and simmer for half an hour. Remove carefully, put in a stone jar and cover with cold vinegar. The next morning pour off the vinegar and allow a half cup of sugar to each quart of the vinegar. Scald and pour over the mangoes. Repeat the scaldings for several mornings, and when quite cold cover and set away in a cool place. PICKLED CHERRIES.— For this you will need plump, rather tart cherries with the stems on. For five pounds of cherries scald together one quart of vinegar, two pounds of sugar, one-half ounce of cinnamon, one- half ounce of cloves and mace mixed, the spices tied in a thin muslin bag; and pour over the cherries while scalding hot. Seal at once. TOMATOES CANNED WHOLE.— For canning tomatoes whole, the best way is that advocated by Miss Parloa in Farmers' Bulletin No. 203, issued by the United States Department of Agriculture. For this purpose use eight quarts of medium sized tomatoes and four quarts of sliced to- matoes. Put the pared and sliced tomatoes into a saucepan and cook twenty minutes, taking pains not to let them scorch. Take from the fire and rub through a strainer. Return to the fire. While the sliced tomatoes are cooking pare the whole tomatoes and put into sterilized jars. Pour into the jars enough of the stewed and strained tomatoes to fill all the interstices. Put the uncovered jars into a moderate oven, placing on pads of asbestos or in shallow pans of hot water. Cook in the oven for half an hour. Take from the oven and fill to overflowing with boiling hot, strained tomato ; then seal. If there is any of the strained tomato left, can it for sauces. TO CAN CORN, PEAS AND LIMA BEANS.— Put the corn into a colander and let a little hot water run over it for about a minute. Then cut the com from the cob, scraping out as much of the juice as possible, but taking care not to get any of the cob. Fill the sterilized jars com-i pactly, working down with a silver knife until the jar is filled to within about an inch of the top. Allow for each quart jar three-quarters of a pint of hot water, in which has been dissolved a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Pour into the jar over the com, then adjust the 186 PEESERVES AND JELLIES lid of the jar without the rubber, so that it partly covers the can and set it on a rack in the bottom of a boiler. Fill the boiler with lukewarm water until the jars are three- fourths covered. Boil three hours, then take out the jars, work down the corn and fill up with more of the same liquid kept boiling for the purpose. Put on the rubber and screw the lid until airtight. Put back in the boiler, allowing the water in the boiler to com- pletely cover the jars. Steam one hour longer, take out the jars, cool, screw the lids tighter if possible, wrap each jar in brown paper and set in a cool, dark place. Proceed in the same way with peas and lima beans, omitting the sugar and the tight packing. CANNED TOMATOES.— Wash the tomatoes and plunge into boil- ing water for five minutes, when the skin will slip off without the least trouble. Slice into the preserving kettle, which must never be of tin, or •cheap worn granite, and set the kettle on an asbestos mat over the fire. Heat slowly to the boiling point, stirring frequently from the bottom. Have Tthe jars in readiness, thoroughly sterilized, and with fresh rubbers and close iitting tops. Fill with the scalding tomatoes, which have been allowed to ■cook steadily half an hour from the time they began to boil, then seal. PINEAPPLE VINEGAR.— Pineapple parings should never be thrown away, as there is no finer vinegar in flavor and coloring than that made from pineapples. The fruit parings (fruit may also be added) should be placed in crocks and covered with water; sugar or syrup being added in quantity according to the condition of the fruit. Allow this to ferment -thoroughly, and when this has been accomplished — ^watched and skimmed meantime — ^the vinegar must be strained from the fruit and placed in jars •or bottles. RIPE CUCUMBER PICKLES.— The large ripe cucumbers make an excellent sweet pickle or they may be used in chow-chow. To make the sweet pickle, peel, take out the seeds and cut into inch pieces. Boil in vinegar and water, half and half, adding a little salt, until clear, but not "mushy." Drain. To seven pounds cucumbers allow three and one-half pounds of sugar and a pint strong vinegar. Let this come to the boiling point, add the cucumbers and just scald — no more. Take out with a skim- mer, and when cool pack in jars with a sprinkling of cassia buds, stick cinnamon, whole cloves, allspice, a few blades of mace and a few pepper- corns. Then pour the syrup over them and seal. A few raisins may be added if desired. CUCUMBER MANGOES.— Still another way of using the ripe cu- cumbers is in mangoes. Cut out a side section large enough to allow for scooping the seeds and soft portions. Save this piece, as it has to be re- sumed after the cucumber is filled ; soak the cucumbers over night in strong salt water ; in the morning drain and prepare the mixture for stuffing. This may vary according to taste and vegetables on hand. It consists usually of chopped cabbage and celery, onions and green tomatoes, radish pods, tiny PRESERVES AND JELLIES ,18,r cucumbers, tender string beans, green grapes and nasturtium seeds; sprinkle well with salt and let stand two hours ; season to taste with ground cloves, cinnamon, allspice, ginger, pepper and salt, then drain; mix thoroughly, fill the cavities, pressing in well, then adjust the pieces where they were re- moved and tie firmly with white cord. Put in a preserving kettle, cover with cold vinegar and let remain over night. The next morning heat to a scald and simmer gently for half an hour; take out the, mangoes and pack in' a stone jar, covering with cold vinegar. The next morning pour off the vine- gar, add sugar in the proportion of one-half cup to every two of vinegar,, scald and pour over the pickles; set away, closely covered, and they will be ready for use in a month. CHOPPED PICKLES OF YELLOW CUCUMBERS.— This is another way of using the seed of cucumbers. Peel, remove seeds and. chop the pulp; to every four quarts of the chopped pulp allow one quart chopped onions; mix in a stone jar and sprinkle over them one cup salt; let stand over night. In the morning drain, lay in a colander and with a wooden masher press out all the juice possible; then add to these vegetables one pint chopped celery and two green peppers seeded and chopped, two tablespoonfuls each grated horseradish and white pepper, a small red pepper seeded and chopped and two ounces white mustard seed; stir well together,, add enough white wine vinegar to cover, pack in jars and cover closely. BLACKBERRY VINEGAR.— To make the vinegar, mash the berries to a pulp in an earthen or stoneware vessel. Add good cider vine- gar to cover, and stand in the sun during the day and in the cellar over night, stirring occasionally. The next morning strain and add the same, amount fresh berries. Crush and over the whole pour the strained juice, and set in the sun again through the day and the cellar at night. The third day, strain and to each quart of the juice allow one pint water and five pounds sugar. Heat slowly to the boiling point, skim, and when it boils strain and bottle, sealing airtight. OLIVE OIL PICKLES.— Slice without peeling enough medium sized cucumbers to fill a gallon jar. Pack in layers with two- thirds cup- salt and let stand three hours. Drain carefully, then put in layers again, with two ounces white mustard seed, one ounce celery seed and two large onions chopped fine distributed through the layers. Add one cup olive oil. When all the cucumbers are used cover with good cold vinegar. These are ready for immediate use, but improve with standing. CANNED SNAP BEANS. — ^Take fresh snap beans, string and cut them as if for immediate use. Put a layer of the uncooked beans in the bottom of a crock and sprinkle over them a half cup of salt. Add another layer of beans, then more salt until the jar is filled, having the salt at the top. Cover air tight. These will keep all winter and taste almost as well as fresh ones in the spring. When ready to use, take some of the beansj. and soak over night to get off the superfluous salt. Cook like fresh beans. SOUTHERN EGG NOG. COLD drink for the season is egg nog, made as the Southern women prepare it, with rum and brandy, or with Madeira substituted for the brandy. Take a dozen eggs and beat the whites and yolks sepa- rately until very light. Add to the yolks twelve tablespoonfuls of sugar, a half pint of rum and a pint of brandy. This proportion of spirits may be modified if preferred. Now grate in a little nutmeg, then stir in slowly a quart of cream or very rich milk and a cup of cream. Just before stirring in the whites pour boiling water through them and off at once to partially cook. Serve in punch glasses and eat with a spoon, and offer fruit cake or a rich white cake with it. GINGER CRAK. — ^This is the regular old fashioned harvest drink. It needs to stand in a warm place a couple of days before using. Mix to- gether one pint pure cider vinegar, one pint sugar syrup, two tablespoonfuls ground ginger, two gallons soft water and one cake of compressed yeast softened in lukewarm water. When well mixed stand in a warm place for a couple of days, then bottle, tying the corks in firmly. Keep in a cold place. PINEAPPLEADE. — Peel a juicy pineapple, taking care to pick out ' all the eyes, and chop fine or shred with a fork. Sprinkle with sugar to sweeten and let it stand until the sugar is melted. Pour one quart of freshly boiled water over the shredded pine, add more sugar if needed and set away to cool. When cold, strain and serve with a few bits of fresh' pineapple floating on top of the glass. Orange Punch. — This can be made from equal portions of orange and lemon juice, with sugar, chopped ice, soda water and fruit. PINEAPPLE PUNCH WITH RUM,— Cut a pineapple in dice and add to it the carefully peeled and separated pulp of two grapefruits and one cupful of maraschino cherries. Mix together a cupful of sugar and one of rum, bring to the boiling point, pour over the fruit and allow it to cool. Turn into the freezer and frappe. This may be served as a first course at 188 DRINKS 189 a luncheon, as a sherbet after the roast, or from the punch bowl as a beverage, in the latter case diluting with water. THE PERFECT CUP OF COFFEE.— There are several points in the making of good coffee that must be borne in mind. The coffee itself must be a good article and freshly roasted. The pot in which it is made( must be perfectly, immaculately clean. The water should be freshly boiled, the "sparkle" still in it. The coffee must not be boiled longer than five minutes and is still better if it is kept just below the boiling point. If allowed to stand and boil the aroma is lost, and the bitter tannic acid that spoils the taste and irritates the stomach is extracted. Lastly the coffee must be well scented and always served — excepting for after dinner-^-with cream, or at least hot (not boiling) milk. In buying coffee one is largely dependent upon the dealer, as there is often no choice. Most people prefer the proportion of one-third Mocha to two-thirds Java, but the Mocha does not always come from Arabia, nor the Java from the island of that name. The best coffee is fermented. The berry is surrounded by a pulp like a cherry or cranberry. When fermented, a white film is formed which no machine can take off. Coffee may be roasted and ground at home, if preferred; but it is now usually quite as well to buy the coffee already roasted, and to grind it as needed. There are several ways of making coffee, but the most common method is boiling. Allow one heaping tablespoonful of coffee to each cup of boiling water. Scald out the coffee pot with boiling water. Put in the amount of coffee needed, mixing it with a little cold water and the white of an egg, or a square inch of isinglass. When eggs are high, an egg shell crushed will answer in place of the white of egg. Shake together thoroughly, then pour on the fresh boiling water. Cover the spout with a little twist of paper, to prevent the escape of the aroma. Stir well, and push the pot on the back' of the stove, where it will keep hot, but not boil. Add a few spoonfuls of cold water, pour out a little of the coffee in a cup and back into the pot again, to clear the spout of the grounds, and let it stand undisturbed for five or ten minutes to settle. Then serve as quickly as possible, as it de- teriorates if left standing. Dip or filtered coffee is made in any double coffee pot fitted with on,e or more strainers. Allow one cupful coffee, ground very fine, to a quart of water. Measure out the coffee and heat it in a saucepan until it steams, stirring continually. This brings out the flavor. Then place the coffee in the strainer, pour the boiling water in and allow it to dip slowly through the coffee. Repeat this pocess a second time. Then bring the coff'ee to the boiling point and serve. Some claim that cold water filtered two or three times through the coffee and then brought to the boiling point gives the strongest and best flavor, but this, of necessity, takes much time and at- tention. Grape Juice Lemonade. — Make a quart of strong lemonade in the usual way, using a little more sugar. Add to each quart of the lemonade a glass of grape juice, chill and serve. 190 DRINKS HOME MADE SODA WATER.— Boil together in a granite ware saucepan two pounds granulated sugar, three pints hot water and two ounces tartaric acid. At the end of five minutes put down cellar to cool. When cool stir in the heaten whites of three eggs and one ounce winter- green or sarsaparilla. Bottle. When ready to use put a tablespoonful in a glass half full of cold water, add a scant quarter teaspoonful soda, beat &nd drink while foaming. This is a staple product for the children's lemon- ade and soda water stands which spring into being during the summer, yielding a nickel harvest for some pet charity or small boy's private exchequer. TEA. — ^The first thing to remember in making the perfect cup of tea is the old couplet, "Unless the kettle boiling be, filling the teapot spoils the tea." More than this, the water must be freshly boiled, not water that has lost all life and effervescence with long continued boiling. An earthen pot freshly scalded with hot water is best for making tea. The blend of tea depends upon individual taste. The Ceylon and India teas are most popular in the Eastern and Middle States, China greens are used largely in the South and Southwest and Japan tea has the preference in the Northwest. Measure the tea, allowing a half teaspoonful to each cup boiling water, reducing the proportions when several cups are to be brewed and increasing if the drinker prefers it extra strong. Put into the hot teapot, pour in some of the freshly boiling, bubbling water, enough to well cover the leaves, then stand back on the range three minutes before pouring in the entire quantity of boiling water carefully measured. Let stand five minutes longer, then fill each cup partly full of the brew, diluting with hot water to suit the taste. Never allow tea to boil. It must simply infuse. Never allow the water to stand on the tea leaves any length of time, else the fragrant bouquet is dissipated and the tannin extracted. If it is to be kept hot, pour off in a second hot pot and cover with a cosey. GINGER PUNCH. — ^This is a beverage generally approved. To serve twenty-five, allow one quart cold water, one cupful of sugar, three- fourths of a pound of Canton ginger, three tablespoonfuls ginger syrup, three-fourths cupful orange juice, one-half cupful lemon juice and one quart of apollinaris water. Chop the ginger, add the water and sugar and boil twenty minutes. Add the fruit juice, cool, strain and then pour in the apollinaris, a pint at a time. In the summer cracked ice is added, but in winter it is not so necessary. CHERRY SHRUB. — Mash two quarts very ripe pitted cherries through a fruit press. Make a syrup of two pounds sugar and two quarts of water and cook five minutes. Add the cherries and the juice of two lemons, strain and set aside until very cold. Serve with some of the fresh cherries floating on the surface of the shrub. Pineapple Punch. — Pineapple makes an excellent and refreshing beverage. To the juice of six lemons and six oranges add sugar to taste, with sliced pineapple and a few bits of lemon peel, two quarts of water and chopped ice to .cool. DRINKS 191 PINEAPPLE FRUICE.— It has remained for the "White Ribboners" of Nebraska to coin a new name for punch, which always savors of intoxi- cants, even though it be a strictly temperance concoction. After a number ■of names had been proposed "fruice" was selected as most appropriate. A ■number of women's clubs and temperance organizations have since adopted the name. For pineapple "fruice," therefore, grate one fresh pine or use a ■quart can of the preserved grated apple. If it is the sliced apple, chop fine. Add to it one quart of any fruit syrup preferred, preserved or fresh. Red raspberries, cherries, strawberries and oranges are all appropriate. Add also the juice from a half dozen lemons or oranges, or the fruit itself sliced very thin. Over this pour a hot syrup, allowing a quart of water to a pound of sugar, increasing the amount of sugar when the fruit is quite acid. Let this stand three hours until all the flavors are delightfully blended, then add half a gallon ice water and pour over a block of ice in the "fruice" ,bowl. ICED TEA. — The tea that is to be used for the day's consumption should be made in the early morning and in just the same way that it is made to be served hot. The quantity depends upon the number of persons to be served, and in hot weather this might well be multiplied by three. The best blend of tea for serving cold is equal parts orange Pekoe and English breakfast. This blend does not lose strength in standing but ripens and softens in flavor. Tea must never be boiled. To make it as it should be, take fresh cold water, bring quickly to the "bubbling" boil, and let it continue several minutes. Scald out the teapot, which should be clean and dry, and measure into it as many level teaspoonfuls tea as cups will be re- quired. Pour^the furiously boiling water over the tea leaves and let steep on the back of the range four or five minutes, then strain off into a pitcher to cool. When quite cold set in the ice box. By drawing the tea off the leaves when just the proper strength it will be fresh and sweet, without the bitter taste of tannin it gets if allowed to stand too long on the leaves. Keep the pitcher set close to the ice or pour the tea in bottles and lay directly on the ice, thus offering more surface for cooling. When ready to serve, if the ice is above suspicion, break into pieces about the size of horse chestnuts, put in the glasses and pour the tea over them. If dependent upon the ordinary unsanitary ice, rinse the glasses out in cold water to make them cold, then fill with the chilled tea but no ice. Slices of lemon, one whole clove dropped in each cup of tea as poured, a bit of pineapple, a sprig of mint or a peppermint cream are among the popular additions to iced tea. Raspberry and Currant Cup. — Combine one part raspberry and two parts currant juice with as much water as juice and as much sugar as necessary to sweeten. MINT JULEP (For the Punch Bovirl). — In making a quantity for the punch bowl, prepare a syrup of a pound of sugar and a quart of water. Break up a dozen sprigs of mint, steep in a cupful and a half boiling water in a covered bowl for fifteen minutes, strain and add to the syrup. Put in the juice of eight oranges, eight lemons, a cup of strawberry juice and a. 192 DRINKS pint of claret. Add ice water to dilute properly and pour in the punch bowl over a block of ice. Fresh berries and mint leaves should float on top of the bowl and in the individual glasses. LEMONADE. — In making lemonade allow thre« lemons to each quart of water. Scrub the lemons first to make sure they are perfectly clean, cut in two in the centre, and from either half cut a thin slice of the lemon and lay aside. Squeeze the juice from the rest of the lemon, then peel off several strips of the thin yellow rind and put in a small basin on the back of the range with a cup of water added and let it simmer to ex- tract some of the rich flavor of the rind. Mix sugar to taste with thei juice, and then pour on the requisite amount of boiling water besides the water in which the peel has been steeped. Stand away until cold and mel- low, then serve with a slice of lemon in the glass and a little chipped ice if desired. ZOOLAK. — Most digestible and assimilable of all fermented milk foods is the Turkish yaourt, known in this country under its Armenian names of zoolak or matzoon. It is prepared in the Orient from the milk of the buffalo or sheep, and tastes like very rich and delicious buttermilk. In this country it is made from cow's milk, and may be found at the best drug stores. It can, however, be made at home, using some of the old yaourt or zoolak as a starter. Zoolak differs from kumyss in the fact that although it is fermented it is not effervescent. To make it the easiest way, boil three pints of rich milk, taking care; that it does not scorch. Set off the fire to cool, until just a trifle hotter than lukewarm. Then add to it one-eighth of a cup of old zoolak, stir vigorously and set aside several hours until thick like loppered milk. This is delicious served alone in a glass, with a spoon, or it may be used with rice, crackers or bread or with fresh berries, if fruit is allowed. In typhoid it serves both as food and drink, as it does not, like kumyss, cause a distention of the intestines by gas. If one is situated so that it is impossible to get any of the old zoolak for a starter, it may be made in this way: — Allow to one quart of milk one teaspoonful of sugar and one-third of a cake of yeast. Take a half cupful of the milk, slightly heat it, dissolve the yeast and sugar in it and set one side to begin "working." In an hour's time heat the remainder of the milk until lukewarm and beat the yeast mixture into it. Pour in small bottles, cork tightly and set aside for three hours in a warm place. At the end of that time remove to a moderately cool place and leave for two days, with frequent shaking. The bottles should then be opened and their con- tents poured into a bowl to stand for ten or fifteen minutes until the effervescence has passed away. Bottle again, put on the ice to prevent further fermentation, and as soon as cold it is ready for use. By recooking it will keep several days. If it thickens too much, shake thoroughly before using and it will become somewhat thinner. FRUIT PUNCH.— Pour one cup fresh hot tea over one cup block sugar and let stand until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup cold. Pour DRINKS 193 into a punch bowl together with three-quarters of a cup orange juice, one- half cup lemon juice, one pint each ginger ale and apollinaris. Just before serving add slices of orange. Grape Punch. — Add to a quart of grape juice the juice of six lemons and two oranges, two quarts of cold water and two cups sugar. Pour into the punch bowl, add sliced oranges, bits of pineapple and berries or sliced peaches. BLACK RASPBERRY SHRUB.— Select the best black caps, put into a jar and pour over them enough of the best cider vinegar to cover. Let stand for thirty-six hours, then strain through cheesecloth, squeezing hard enough to get all the juice. Measure the juice and allow a pound of sugar to every pint of juice. Cook five minutes, bottle and seal while scalding hot. Keep in a cool place. When you wish to serve allow two tablespoon fuls of the shrub to each glass very cold water. ' This makes a particularly fine beverage for picnics. "SWITCHEL."— This is a harvest or hot weather drink that can be made on demand. Mix together a pint molasses, two heaping teaspoonfuls ginger, a gallon of water and cider vinegar to make as acid as desired. Serve ice cold. LEMON GINGER BEER.— This should be made a couple of days before using. Put two gallons cold water over six lemons sliced thin, a pound and a half of sugar and a scant ounce ginger root. Let it come to a boil then add tablespoonful cream of tartar. Strain and set in a cool place. When nearly cold add a yeast cake dissolved in a little lukewarm water, stir thoroughly, then set in the cellar over night. In the morning mix well, bottle, corking air tight and lay the bottles on their sides in a cold place. A small bottle Jamaica ginger extract may be used in the place of the whole ginger if preferred. A TEMPERANCE MINT CORDIAL.— This is made without spirits. Crush a bunch of mint, rubbing each leaf with a wooden muller or masher, then soak for half an hour in the strained juice of two lemons with the carefully grated yellow rind of one. Cook together a pint of water and a pound of granulated sugar until the syrup spins a thread. Take from the fire and stir into it the lemon and the mint, the juice of an orange and an equal quantity of pineapple juice. Strain and put on the ice until cold, then serve in wineglasses with a sprig of mint and a beriy on top of the glass. OATMEAL WATER.— A particularly refreshing and wholesome drink for extreme hot weather is oatmeal water. To make it, put one cup oatmeal in a stone jar, add a cup sugar and the juice and rind of three lemons cut thin. Cover with three quarts boiling water, and let it stand until the sugar is dissolved and the water cold. Strain and place on ice. In the Japanese war with Russia oatmeal water was placed all over the Japanese ships to satisfy the thirst engendered by the heat and smoke, in place of the alcoholic drinks allowed the Russians. 194 DRINKS Fourth of July Lemonade. — Fourth of July lemonade takes on a more festive appearance by the addition of a little pink coloring matter such as comes with many of the packages of gelatine, or a little currant, straw- berry or red raspberry juice. Slices of banana, strawberries cut in quar- ters, raspberries or pitted cherries add to the attractiveness of this favorite holiday beveage. A TEMPERANCE LOVING CUP.— Mix together the juice of five lemons and five oranges, one pint of strawberry syrup, one can of grated pineapple and one ounce apollinaris. Make a syrup of one cupful of water, one cupful of rather strong tea, and two cupfuls of sugar. When cold add to the fruit mixture, with enough water to make a gallon and one-half of liquid. This same mixture makes a good filling for the punch bowl, in which case a half pint of maraschino cherries, chips of orange peel or a few slices of red bananas or muscatel grapes cut in halves make an improvement. MULLED CIDER. — Put one quart of cider to boil in a granite sauce- pan. Beat three eggs well and add sugar enough to tone down the acidity of the cider about to be poured in. When the cider reaches the boiling point pour over the beaten eggs, stirring briskly. Return to the pan, stir until it boils again and serve hot in glasses. Red Raspberry Shrub. — Pour one quart cider vinegar over three quarts, raspberries. Let stand three days, mash and strain. Allow a pound of sugar to each pint juice, boil twenty minutes, skimming well, and bottle. Use a couple of tablespoon fuls to each glass of cold water. FROTHED CHOCOLATE.— Heat in large double boiler or sauce- pan set in a larger vessel of hot water two and a half quarts milk. Cook; in a small pan until smooth and shiny four squares of chocolate, four table- spoonfuls sugar, a heaping spoonful salt and four tablespoonfuls hot water or milk. Cook this for ten or more minutes, stirring constantly; pour into kettle of hot milk, and with a chocolate muddler or egg beater beat for five minutes. Flavor with a teaspoonful vanilla extract and a little cinnamon and serve in cups, pouring the hot chocolate over a spoonful of whipped cream in the bottom of each cup. LEMON GINGER PUNCH (With Mint),— The older boys (no age limit) like this. Make an unusually strong lemonade, using five lemons and a cup of sugar to each quart of water. To every quart of lemonade allow one quart ginger ale. Put both together in a big punch bowl, with a piece of ice. Have ready a number of sprigs of mint carefully washed. Bruise the stems and lower leaves between the fingers so as to bring out the flavor of the mint. Half an hour before serving put into the punch bowl. Buttermilk Pop. — Put a quart of buttermilk in a double boiler. When nearly at the boiling point add two tablespoonfuls flour rubbed smooth with two tablespoonfuls milk. Stir until boiling. This is excellent for nervous dyspepsia. WATER ICES. S sherbets and ices differ from ice cream in that they are better served soon after freezing, so creams are best when allowed to stand and "ripen." There are two methods of making water ice. The first is very simple, consisting merely of a syrup too sweet for drinking, flavored with any fruit juice preferred, then frozen. The second way is to boil sugar and water together, cool, flavor and freeze. As an uncooked ice is apt to melt quickly on exposure to the air, a tablespoonful of gelatine or the whites of two or three eggs are often added to each quart of juice in order to hold it. This slight addition converts a plain water ice into a sherbet or Italian sorbet. Any kind of fruit can be used in the concoction of a sherbet, but grapes, cherries, red raspberries, strawberries and pineapple are specially delicious. If liquor is added to a sherbet it becomes Roman punch. In this the liquor is added after it is set. Roman Punch. — ^To one quart or a little more than a quart of lemon water ice add a glass of white rum, the juice of two oranges and a small glass of any dry wine. COFFEE FRAPPE.— Coffee frappe is delicious and refreshing. It is served in glasses with a spoonful of whipped cream on top. A quart will serve twelve people. If used in a course luncheon or dinner, it follows the last entree and precedes the game. Pour one quart of boiling water over four ounces fine ground Java coffee. Cover, let it simmer ten minutes, strain through cheesecloth, and add six tablespoonfuls sugar. When cold pour into the freezer and begin to freeze. As it begins to thicken, add the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff broth, freeze five minutes longer, re-, move the beater, cover and let it stand fifteen or twenty minutes before serving. PINEAPPLE SORBET.— Peel and cut a sugar loaf pineapple in small pieces. Add two cups sugar and let it stand over night in a cool place. Strain off the juice and press the pulp through a colander. Add to this a pint of water and the grated yellow rind of an orange. Mix well and boil, ten minutes. Take from the fire, add the juice of one lemon 195 196 ICES and two oranges and freeze. If you wish to make this a "granite," pack in equal quantities of ice and salt and set away two or three hours, scraping the frozen part occasionally from the sides of the can and stirring the whole long enough to mix the ice thoroughly with the mass, but not long enough to beat it to an even cream. Serve in dainty cups of china or crystal. MERINGUE GLACE (Or Baked Ice Cream).— Soak two table- spoonfuls gelatine in a quarter cup cold water for an hour, then dis- solve in a cup of rich milk heated just to the boiling point. Strain through a hair sieve into a quart of rich cream, add a cupful of sugar and a teaspoonful of orange or vanilla extract and freeze. When frozen pack in a mould and leave in the freezer for two or three hours. A little before serving time turn out on a stoneware dish, and cover roughly with a thick meringue made of the whites of five eggs beaten stiff with five tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and flavored with a scant tea- spoonful of any flavoring desired. Take care that the ice cream and the edge of the dish on which it rests are entirely covered by the meringue. Set the dish on an as- bestos griddle or a board in a hot oven and let the meringue brown delicately. It should not take more than five minutes at the outside. Serve at once. The cream will not be melted. This is often known as Alaska bake. If preferred you can serve it in individual moulds, but you will need to have two persons to assist in dishing, as it must be served as soon as it comes from the oven; When the ice cream is frozen hard in the freezer take out individual portions with the ordinary ice cream pyramid scoop, put in saucers, cover with the meringue and place on a board in the hot oven just a moment to color. VANILLA ICE CREAM (With Hot Chocolate Sauce).— Beat the yolks of four eggs until lemon colored and thick. Add one pound of powdered sugar and a quart of milk which has just been brought to the boiling point. Cook two minutes in a double boiler — no longer. Stir in the whites of four eggs, beaten until stiff, a teaspoonful and a half of vanilla and half a teaspoonful of almond. When cool add a quart (a pint will answer) of cream, freeze and pack. Just before serving make the hot chocolate sauce in this wayi-^Mix two ounces grated chocolate or cocoa with two cupfuls granulated sugar, one-half cupful •water, a tablespoonful and a half of bujter, and a little stick cinna- mon. Cook until the mixture forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water. Remove the stick cinnamon, add a few drops of vanilla, pour into a pretty pitcher and send about with the cream, to be poured over it. The maple sugar sauce with walnuts is a little newer than the chocolate, but either is so good that a choice between them is merely a matter of individual preference. Frozen Tea Sherbet.^ — Is also a refreshing ice, and one too seldom used. Make a quart of fine flavored tea in the usual way. Pour off, ICES 197 sweeten to taste, add the juice of a half lemon and the fine sliced peeL Freeze. LEMON MILK SHERBET.— Put one quart of fresh milk, two. cups of sugar and the thin yellow rind from two lemons in the double boiler and let it come to a scald. Remove the peel and let the liquid cool. When cold freeze until almost solid enough to remove the beater, then add the juice of four large lemons, or five medium sized ones, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and the whites of three eggs beaten stiff. Mix thoroughly with the frozen mixture, then cover the freezer, and stir until frozen quite hard. Remove the beater, scrape off the ice, beat and pack closely in the can. Put a cork into the opening in the cover, lay the crosspiece on top to keep the can down in the ice, and cover with an old piece of carpeting wet in salt and water. Let it stand an hour and serve. If it is to be kept longer, draw off the water and pack with more ice and salt. Lemon Ginger Sherbet. — ^This is simply a lemon sherbet with four ounces of candied ginger sliced fine and steeped in with the lemon peel. MINT SHERBET.— This makes a pretty addition to a company dinner. Pour two cupfuls boiling water over a bunch of bruised, fresh mint leaves. Cover and let it stand fifteen minutes on the back of the stove to infuse, then add one cupful sugar. When the sugar is dissolved strain, cool, add two-thirds of a cupful of grape juice and a quarter of a cupful of lemon juice. Freeze to a mush-like consistency. Serve in sorbet glasses, ornamenting the top of each glass with a crystallized cherry and sprig of mint. CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM.— Sift together one cup of sugar, two level tablespoonfuls of flour and a half saltspoonful of salt. Add two eggs and beat all together. Add one pint of hot, scalded milk, turn into a double boiler and cook, stirring constantly until smooth; then occasionally for twenty minutes. Cool, then add a pint and a half of cream, one cup of sugar, half a tablespoonful of vanilla and two bars of sweetened chocolate, melted with a tablespoonful of hot water and mixed with a little of the cream. Add half a teaspoonful of Ceylon cinnamon with the chocolate or a teaspoonful of cinnamon extract, which gives the cream a rich spicy flavor. Freeze. RED RASPBERRY SHERBET.— Soak one tablespoonful of gela- tine in a quarter of a cup of cold water for twenty minutes, then add a cup and a half of boiling water and stir until dissolved. Add two cups of sugar, one pint red raspberry juice, or part currant and part rasp- berry, and the juice of two lemons. When cool freeze. White ' Chocolate Ice Cream.— This is simply a rich vanilla cream with chocolate grated coarsely into it at the last moment just before freezing. It will not turn dark like ordinary chocolate, but remains, white, with the little speckles of chocolate throughout. 198 ICES PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM— Put a quart of cream and a half pint of milk in a double boiler and bring to a scald. Do not boil. Melt a cup of sugar in the hot cream, then cool. Flavor with one tablespoon- ful of vanilla and freeze. SICILIAN SHERBET.— Boil together for five minutes one pound sugar and one quart of water. Beat the yolks of six eggs and add to the boiling syrup. Stir just a moment, then take from the fire and beat until cold. Have in readiness one cup mixed fruit, which has been soaked in a half cup sherry. When the mixture is quite cold turn into the freezer and freeze. Remove the beater, stir in the fruit with a wooden spoon and serve in punch glasses. Currant Water Ice. — Soak one tablespoonful gelatine in cold water to cover for half an hour. Pour over it one cup boiling water and stir until dissolved. Mix with it two cups more water, two cups sugar, two cups currant juice and the juice of a lemon. Freeze and serve with angel cake. RASPBERRY CREAM.— Soak a half box gelatine in cold water to cover for half an hour. Then stand over boiling water until dissolved. Add a half cup sugar and a pint of raspberry juice, strain, set in a pan of cracked ice and stir until thickened. Add a pint whipped cream, and mix thoroughly. Pour in a mould and set in a mixture of ice and salt to harden. PISTACHE ICE CREAM.— Blanch two ounces of pistache nuts as you would almonds, remove the skins, then pound to a paste in a mortar. Add to a quart of plain vanilla cream, flavor with a little orange flower water, then pack in ice and salt. The pistache paste may be purchased at the confectioner's if preferred. TUTTI FRUTTI ICE CREAM.— If you wish a tutti frutti ice cream without the trouble of making the foundation creams at home, buy a quart of vanilla cream and a pint of pistache cream at the confectioner's and pack with the fruit yourself. Ornament a two quart ice cream mould with candied cherries, apricots, citron, peaches, angelica, etc., that have been well steeped in warm Kirschwasser syrup. Over this spread the pistache cream, then finish filling the mould with the vanilla cream mixed with a gill of Kirschwasser and a half cupful candied fruits cut small. Close the mould tightly, putting a layer of paper be- tween the mould and cover, and imbed in ice and salt for at least two hours before using. Grape Sherbet. — Boil together one pound sugar and a quart of water, coojcipg just five minutes from the time it commences to boil. Cool, add a pint of grape juice and the juice of a lemon. When perfectly cold, freeze, turning slowly at first, then rapidly until light and spongy. Pomegranate Water Ice. — Take off the outer hard shell, remove the seeds carefully and press through a sieve. For a half dozen pome- ICES 199 granates use a cupful each sugar and water. Cook the syrup and when cold add the fruit juice and freeze. Peach Sherbet. — Boil together for twenty minutes one quart of water and a pound of granulated sugar. Cool, add a scant pint of peach pulp, a teaspoonful gelatine, softened in cold water, then dissolved over the tea kettle and put in the juice of two oranges and one lemon. Freeze. LEMON SHERBET.— For which one of the best known ranches in Arizona is famous: — Six lemons, scant two quarts of water, one pint of sugar, one table- spoonful of gelatine. Put the water and sugar on to boil in a clean basin. Boil until clear, skimming if necessary. Meanwhile squeeze the lemons, and grate a little of the yellow peel into the juice. Dissolve one tablespoonful of gelatine in a small portion of cold water, heating it over the tea kettle. When the syrup is clear, pour into the lemon juice, to which the gelatine has also been added. Fi*eeze. The beaten white of an egg may be substituted for the gelatine to give body. Red Raspberry and Currant Ice. — ^To prepare this use the juice from one quart currants and a pint of red raspberries. Press through a cheese- cloth bag, add three cups sugar, a pint of water and a tablespoonful gelatine softened in a little cold water, then dissolved in boiling water. Freeze, using a little more salt than in freezing cream. Serve in tall glasses with a spoonful whipped cream on each portion and a few raspberries on top. PINEAPPLE PARFAIT.— Cook for five minutes over the fire one cup granulated sugar and a quarter cup water. Beat the yolks of six eggs until lemon colored and thick, then add the syrup little by little, constantly beating. Cook in a double boiler until the custard coats the spoon, then strain and beat until cold. Add two cupfuls pineapple pulp pressed through a sieve and fold in a pint of cream whipped stiff. Pack and bury in the ice and salt mixture. , WHITE OR ANGEL PARFAIT.— This is a recipe given by the manufacturers of one of the latest and best of the four minute ice cream freezers. The amounts given make a quart of the parfait. Boil together until the syrup threads one cup sug^ar and one-third cup boiling water. Pour slowly into the stiflfly beaten whites of two eggs and beat until cold. Whip to a stiff froth one pint double cream and fold into the egg mixture. Flavor with a scant tablespoonful vanilla extract or half a vanilla bean steeped in the syrup. Pour into a mould and pack in equal measures ice and salt. Let stand four hours. When ready to serve garnish with violets, fresh or candied, or rose leaves. Violet Parfait. — ^This is made the same as the white parfait, using one-third cup grape juice instead of the boiling water, and adding half a cup grape juice and the juice of half a lemon to the cream before beating. 200 ICES VANILLA PARFAITv— Cook a half cup each sugar and water over tke fire until it threads. Do not stir after the sugar has dissolved. Beat the whites of three eggs until very stiff, pour the syrup slowly over it, beating constantly. Flavor with vanilla, and when cold fold in a pint of cream whipped stiff. Four into a mould and pack. FROZEN PUDDING.— Cook until the syrup will spin a thread one cupful each water and sugar. Have ready the well beaten yolks of four or six eggs, stir into the cooked syrup, little by little, and return to the fire. Cook until quite thick, beat until cool, then add a level tablespoonful gelatine that has been soaked for half an hour in two tablespoonfuls milk or water, then softened over the tea kettle. Beat again until thick, add one pint cream that has been scalded and cooled or whipped, put in one cupful ground almonds, one-half cupful seeded raisins or currants (or a cupful canned pineapple), and freeze. When ready to pack in a mould or in a freezer add one pound candied fruit cat in small pieces. Let' stand a couple of hours to ripen, then serve. MISS DANIELS' CUSTARD ICE CREAM.— Beat the yolks of six eggs lightly, add to them one quart of fresh milk and one cup of sugar, put in the double boiler and cook to a smooth custard. As soon as the mixture coats a spoon take from the fire and strain. Set away to cool. When quite cold add one pint of cream, more sugar if desired, and a tablespoonful of flavoring. When the freezer is ready for the cream to be turned in, add the beaten whites of the eggs and freeze. If the ice cream is to be moulded one tablespoonful of gelatine soaked half an hour in one-half cup of milk reserved from the custard should be added when the custard is done. STRAWBERRY PARF AIT.— Hull, wash and drain some firm, sweet berries. Press through a strainer enough to give about two-thirds of a cup of pulp. Cook together in a granite saucepan one cupful granu- lated sugar and a half cupful water until it spins a thread. Do not stir while cooking. Whip two whites of eggs stiff, then pour the hot syrup over them and continue beating until the mixture is cold. As it thickens add the crushed berries a spoonful at a time. Have ready a pint of cream whipped to a solid froth, stir lightly into the egg and berry mixture, then pack in a covered mould- and bury in ice and salt, equal proportions, leaving it for several hours. HELDERBERG ICE CREAM.— Put one cup of milk in a double boiler and bring it to a scald. Add one teaspoonful of arrowroot dis- solved in a tablespoonful of cold milk and cook ten minutes. Sweeten with one-half cup of sugar. When cold add one pint of cream and flavor delicately with vanilla, strawberry or orange. Freeze. PEACH ICE CREAM. — ^Take two quarts ripe peaches, peel and press through a puree sieve. Make very sweet — the exact quantity of sugar cannot be given, as it depends on the acidity of the fruit. Crack six peach kernels, mash fine, and add to the pulp, together with a quart rich milk or thin cream. Freeze. CHICKEN BROTH.— Clean and cup up a fowl into inch pieces, removing all fat. Break the bones. Cover all with cold water, heat slowly and simmer gently until the meat is tender. Strain, cool, and remove any remaining fat. When needed reheat and season with salt and pepper. If you wish' to use it as a jelly, clear by cooling with the white of an egg for five minutes then skim well. Strain into cups to chill and mould, MKRINGUED TOAST.— Dip a freshly toasted slice of bread into boiling water slightly salted, and lay in a deep saucer. Pour over it a sauce made of one-half cup scalding milk, a teaspoonful butter and the stiffly whipped white of one egg, the latter stirred in just as taken from the fire. Set in the oven for four or five minutes tmtil delicately browned. Mulled Cider. — Heat sweet cider to the boiling point. Thicken with flour stirred smooth in a little cold water, allowing a tablespoonful flour to each quart of the cider. Sweeten and spice to taste and serve hot. This is an old Quaker drink, used to break up an incipient cold. ORGEAT.— This is a favorite Southern remedy in case of feverish colds. Boil one quart milk with a two inch stick cinnamon in a double boiler. When it comes to a fair boil, remove the cinnamon and let the milk cool. Blanch a half cup sweet almonds and when cold pound in a mortar with orange flower or rose water to make a paste. Sweeten the milk to taste, then cook the paste in it for a few moments only. Strain out the almonds, leaving the milk creamy. Cool, then pour in glass jars or bottles and keep on the ice. Serve very cold. PANADA. — ^Toast two half slices stale bread, lay in a china bowl. Sprinkle with a tablespoonful white sugar, a little salt and and cinna- mon or nutmeg to taste, then pour on a scant cup, of boiling water. Cover with a plate and set in open oven ten or twelve minutes; then serve. Boston crackers can be used in place of bread. In this case, split, toast, season and let stand twenty minutes in the hot water. 201 202 DISHES FOR INVALIDS DAINTY DESSERTS (For the Nursery or Invalid's Tray).— The first consists of an apple cored and carefully baked, set on a pretty saucer, then covered with whipped cream or the white of an egg beaten stiff with a little sugar. The other digestible and simple dessert is apple toast. To make it, toast bread in the oven until crisp throughout, but not blackened. Place the slices in the bottom of a colander set within another dish, turn boiling water over each slice, drain immedi- ately and serve hot in a pretty plate with sweetened apple sauce about the consistency of marmalade spread over each slice. The sauce may also be made from dried apples or apricots or stewed peaches. Still another nourishing and pretty way of serving apple sauce is to stew the apples quickly so that the sauce is white and tender. Strain through a puree sieve, then beat up with the white of an egg already beaten stiff. Add sugar and flavoring to taste and pile lightly in a glass dish. GRUELS. — Gruels properly made and daintily served are invaluable where food is required that shall quench thirst and satisfy hunger with- out overloading the stomach or affording too great a stimulant. The difference between gruels and porridges is but one of a degree, the por- ridges being thicker than the gruels. Both are cooked mixtures of various grains or flours made with water or milk. They require long and thorough cooking to make them digestible. This should be done in a double boiler to avoid scorching. Gruels may be served "hot or cold, but should be always freshly made. Of the flour, arrowroot, corn- starch and rice flour, use two level teaspoonfuls dissolve.d with a little cold water to a smooth paste and one saltspoon of salt to a pint of boiling water. Cook two hours. Oatmeal should be cooked from five to eight hours unless it is to be strained, as the cellular tissue is very irritating in diseases of the intestines or in any case of weak digestion. For foods that have already been partially cooked, like farina, stir one tablespoonful of the food and one saltspoonful of salt into a full cup of boiling water and cook twenty minutes. Add a cup of milk and heat thoroughly. Barley gruel is excellent in gastric troubles or fevers. Cook one ounce of pearl barley in enough hot water to cover well for two minutes. Pour off the water, add one quart of cold water and cook slowly for two hours. Strain, salt to taste and sweeten or flavor slightly if desired. ^ Egg Gruel. — Egg gruel is made as follows: — To the yolk of one egg, well beaten, add one teaspoonful of sugar, and pour over it one cupful hot water, beating very rapidly. Add the well beaten white of the egg and again beat until foamy. Serve very hot. Spice or a few drops of liquor may be added to this under the doctor's orders. Oatmeal Gruel. — For oatmeal gruel pound one cupful of the meal until fine. Pour over it a cupful of cold water and let it stand until settled. Strain off the water into a saucepan. DISHES FOR INVALIDS 203 Four over the meal another cup of cold water, stir well and again strain. Repeat this operation four times. Then boil the four cups of strained water thirty minutes, add one saltspoon of salt and serve very hot. Beef tea, milk or cream may be added. Apple Water. — Roast several apples of fine flavor and put into a pitcher. Pour on boiling water and let stand until cold. This will be found very grateful in case of a feverish cold. MILK PORRIDGE.— Put into a double boiler one cupful of milk" and heat to the boiling point. Stir two tablespoonfuls flour smooth in another cupful cold milk, then add to the scalding milk, little by little, stirring all the time, until smooth and thickened. Cook over the hot water for half an hour and salt to taste just before removing from the fire. MUTTON BROTH.— One pound lean, juicy mutton chopped fine, and one pint cold water. Let stand half an hour, then heat slowly, and simmer half an hour. Strain, season and thicken with a little rice flour stirred smooth in cold water. Serve very hot. If little globules of fat appear on the surface of the broth they can be removed with a bit of soft tissue paper. BEEF TEA. — This should always be prepared at home, unless one has access to a first class diet kitchen. Take one pound of the round of beef, remove every scrap of fat and chop very fine. Cover with one pint of cold, soft water, and stand aside an hour. Then place in a jar in the oven or a kettle on the back of the stove and heat to a moderate degree — not much warmer than you could bear your hand in, say 165 degrees, at the outside. Strain through a colander, not a strainer. If care has been taken in the preparation, it may be served at once, simply salted with ordinary salt or celery salt. It is better, however, to let it stand several hours in a cold place, to let every bit of fat rise to the surface. Remove this in a solid cake if there is much, or with a clean piece of blotting paper. If necessary to reheat, take pains not to let the temperature rise above the 165 degrees. If it approaches the boiling point, and the albumen coagulates, it is spoiled. If it is necessary to give beef tea to a patient several times daily it is wise to vary the flavor from time to time, so that the invalid does not tire of it. This may be done by means of a bay leaf or a flavoring of some vegetable, straining them out before serving. For the patient who rebels against the sight of beef tea, un- less overcooked, which causes it to lose its bright color, or unless strained through a fine sieve, which removes the brown flakes, which are the best part of the broth, get a red wine glass and give him his tea in that. SPONGE CAKE. — A good sponge cake served with sweet cream or a glass of milk is an excellent lunch for an invalid. Sift together two 204 DISHES FOR INVALIDS cups of pastry flour, one teaspoonful cream of tartar and a scant half teaspoonful of soda. Beat four eggs until light, add one-half cup cold water, a cup and a half powdered sugar, two tablespoonfuls lemon juice and the sifted flour. Beat light and bake in a very moderate oven. Rice Coffee. — Brown rice in a spider as you would coffee. Grind and add two tablespoonfuls of the rice to a pint of boiling water. Put in a hot place ten minutes, keeping just below the boiling point, then serve with sugar and cream. Egg Nog.— Beat the yolk of an egg light, add a wine glass of sherry and a cup of new milk. When well mixed stir in the stiffly whipped white of an egg, a spoonful at a time. A teaspoonful sugar may be beaten in with the yolk if preferred, and a grating of nutmeg added for seasoning. ICE CREAM FOR THE INVALID.— A novelty is a tiny ice cream freezer in which a pint of any frozen dainty may be made. While these are popular, as used by college boys and girls to supplement their chafing dish spreads, they are still more useful in the sick room. Failing the real freezer, a one pound baking powder can set in a larger dish will do very well. Be sure, however, that the tin does not leak. Put into a bowl two teaspoonfuls of sherry wine, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar and half a cupful of cream, and beat together until the mixture begins to thicken, but not until like whipped cream. Pour this into the sterilized baking powder can or freezer. Fit the lid on tightly with a piece of manila paper between the lid and the top of the can. Place in the larger vessel of tin or wood, and fill up the space with crushed ice, mixed with common salt. Turn the small can for about five minutes, then set away in a cold place. In a short time it will be frozen and your invalid will have a saucer of delicate and delicious cream. If preferred, fruit juice or coffee may be used in place of the wine. A little more sugar will then be required. COOLING DRINKS FOR FEVERISH COLDS.— With la grippe and feverish colds prevalent, cooling drinks are in demand. Chilled fruit juices are always acceptable whether they be from the juice of dried fruits soaked over night, then cooked in the same water, tart homemade jellies dissolved in a glass of cold water, allowing a tablespoonful of jelly to a glass of water, or the juice of lemon, limes, oranges or grape fruit diluted with water and sweetened to taste. One patient finds nothing more acceptable than the juice of an orange squeezed in a glass the same as lemon for lemonade. Another finds appleade the most refreshing. To prepare it peel and quarter a tart apple, cover with water and cook until tender. Press to a pulp while hot, sweeten slightly, then cool and strain into a glass of cold water. The water in which rice has been cooked, when strained, cooled and slightly sweetened or lightly salted, is both nourishing and cooling. The addition of lemon juice DISHES FOR INVALIDS 205 makes an Oriental drink greatly in demand in case of cold or hxet. Oyster broth made with milk and chilled is often relished. The peculiar acid of buttermilk appeals to many palates, while with others oatmeal water stands first. To make the latter put one cup oatmeal in a stone jar with a cup of sugar, the juice and thin yellow rind of three lemons. Cover with three quarts boiling water and let stand until the sugar is dissolved. Strain and put on the ice. PRUNE PUFF.— Add to the unbeaten white of one fresh egg, as you begin beating, a teaspoonful of cooked, sweetened and finely chopped prunes. As you continue to beat, add more prunes, until you have added two tablespoonfuls in all. Add a half tablespoonful lemon juice and beat until very stiff. Cook in slightly buttered cups filled two-thirds full, set in a pan of hot water, or eat simply chilled and not cooked. Lime Water and Milk.^ — Pour one gallon cold water over a lump of unslaked lime about the size of an egg. Let it stand over night to settle, then pour off the clear water. Mix as required with an equal quantity of milk. TEA BREWED IN MILK.— It is said that many patients who can- not drink tea made in the ordinary way find that it agrees with them when brewed with milk instead of water. Scald out the teapot so that it will be hot when the tea is added. Put in the tea leaves, a scant teaspoonful or less, and cover with a little hot milk just brought to the boiling point but no more. Let it stand for two or three minutes, then add more of the hot milk and use at once. BROILED FROGS' LEGS.— Select the largest legs for broiling. Wash and wipe with a cloth and trim off the bones of the claws with a pair of scissors. Prepare a marinade of three tablespoonfuls of the best olive oil, the juice of a lemon, a half teaspoonful of salt, and pepper or not, according to taste. Roll the legs in this mixture, then lay them on a double oyster broiler and broil to a rich, even brown, five minutes to a side. Slip on a hot plate and spread with a sauce made by mixing a teaspoonful of minced parsley with a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. CHOPS, FISH AND BIRDS (In Paper Cases).— Chops, birds and dry fish are most delicious when broiled in paper. A sheet of foolscap paper is spread with either olive oil or butter (I should always give preference to the former), then the article to be broiled, salted and peppered, should be laid on the lower half and the upper part folded over with the edges together. Begin at the edge and fold over the lower side and ends several times, pinching together close to the meat. Place in a wire broiler, and broil eight or ten minutes over a steady, slow fire, turning often. The paper will char a long time before ignit- DISHES FOR INVALIDS ing, and the contents will be basted in their own juices. When the paper is well browned the chop or bird is done to a juicy, delicate and digestible turn. Serve in its envelope, which conserves the heat and juices to the very minute of serving. A few crispy sprigs of watercress add to its attractiveness and digestibility. The large filet of chicken "broiled in this way is delicious and easy of assimilation. Squabs or tjuails should be split down the back and wiped dry before broiling. A tenderloin of steak may also be broiled in paper. CALIFORNIA BROWNED CORN.— Another timely and delicate dish for the invalid's tray is corn fried in California style. Cut the kernels from the cob, scraping as cut, so that it will be milky, but not cutting too close to the cob. Have a sheet iron frying pap piping hot, with a little salt sprinkled in it, and left just long enough to brown. Put the corn into the pan, pressing the kernels with a spoon so as to extract the milk. In just a moment it will begin to brown in its own juice. Keep stirring, and when well browned add water, a tablespoonful at a time, pressing with spoon until the corn begins to stick. Then add another spoonful until two or two and a half have been added for each ear of corn used. This makes the delicious gravy. Keep stirring all the time the corn is cooking, as it scorches easily. Raw Beef Sandwiches. — Scrape fine a small piece of juicy, fresh tender raw beef, season well with salt and pepper and place between slices of hot, crispy toast. BROILED SWEETBREADS.— The throat sweetbreads are consid- ered best. Parboil, then blanch in cold water made acid with lemon juice. Wipe dry, then brush with olive oil and broil over a clear fire until well browned. Season lightly with salt, and, if the physician ap- proves, a sprinkling of pepper, being sure, however, that the pepper is pure. BROILED BEEFSTEAK. — Lean beef, carefully broiled, yields a great amount of nourishment. As the convalescent progresses toward recovery he is usually allowed steak broiled in the ordinary way, but when the digestion is seriously impaired and the least expenditure of vital force is a desideratum, there is nothing so easy of assimilation as the steak meat balls. Select a thick piece of round or sirloin, and with a dull knife scrape with the grain of the meat, leaving all the stringy white fibre behind. Roll the pulp up into balls about the size of a marble. Have the frying pan smoking hot, sprinkle a little salt in it and shake until brown. Then lay in three or four balls, and with a spoon keep them rapidly rolling and turning for just a minute or two. The salt gives them an appetizing flavor, while they will be rare inside and delicately brown outside. Prepared in this way they can be digested by the weakest stomach. In some cases a patient has to be restricted to this diet alone and the drinking of hot water an hour before meals, with the result that great improvement follows speedily, if not convalescence. DISHES FOR INVALIDS 207 Where the patient is allowed steak regularly broiled, care should be taken to avoid all flame in broiling, as that causes a deposit of coal tar on the meat, giving it a smoky, nauseating flavor. It should be .broiled over a clear fire of coals or gas. After the first searing on each side it may be turned as often as ten can be counted. In this way the juices flow to the centre and are there retained. As the juices of the meat become converted into steam they expand, giving the meat a puffy appearance, which should not be lost. Steak an inch thick will require from five to twelve minutes. Have the plate which is to receive it hot, sprinkle with salt, put on a bit of butter and serve at once with a mealy baked potato, done just "to a turn," and a few sprigs of watercress. VENISON. — ^This is one of the most easily digested meats, and may be cooked the same way as beef or mutton. It should always be rare and served with a little currant jelly. For the invalid it is best roasted or broiled with or without the paper case. BROILED MACKEREL. — Remove the head and dark skin from inside the fish. Wash thoroughly and wipe dry. Split so that when laid flat the backbone will be in the middle. Oil the bars of the grid- iron and broil over a clear fire, browning the flesh side first. SCORCHED CODFISH.— Select a thick square piece of nice salt fish and toast over a clear fire until lightly browned on either side. An invalid will frequently relish this when richer or more elaborate viands will not seem "to go near the right place." $5 XMAS DINNER FOR SIX PLATES. Here is a Christmas menu tra- ditionally Englisli in its main fea- tures, but embellished with a few up to date American frills. The entire cost of it is covered by one of Uncle Sam's five-dollar bills: — Grape Fruit or Oyster Canapes. Pickled Pears (home made). Celery. Oxtail or Mock Turtle Soup. Roast Green Goose with Apple Sauce, or Roast Sirloin of Beef with Browned Potatoes and Yorkshire Pudding. Mashed Irish Potatoes or Baked Sweet. Boiled Onions with Cream Sauce. Roman Punch (home made). Roast Pigeons. Orange and Endive Salad. Pippins and Cheese. Plum Pudding with Brandy Sauce. Syllabub. Nuts Raisins. Coffee (demi-tasse). Oyster Canapes. Appetizers served in the form of canapes or bouchees are con- sidered excellent form in intro- ducing the course dinner. As they are usually served cold they may be prepared the day before. They are served on small plates placed at each cover. The usual foun- dation for these is circles of white bread about the size of a silver dollar, fried in butter to a delicate brown on either side. After fry- ing lay on a soft paper to absorb every particle of grease. To serve six people cut twelve selected oysters in small pieces and mix with two tablespoonfuls horseradish, one heaping table- spoonful each chopped green cu- cumber pickles and olives, and season with lemon juice and pap- rika. When the toast is cold, spread with the mixture, cover with mayonnaise made with lemon juice instead of vinegar, and serve cold. To Prepare the Grape Fruit. Cut the fruit in halves, midway between the stem and blossom ends. With a sharp pointed knife loosen the flesh of the fruit from the skin without breaking, remove the seeds with scissors, reach down and snip out the hard centre core that holds the white membrane sur- rounding the pulpy sections. It then may be all removed together. Fill the spaces thus created with 208 MENUS 209 a little sugar and teaspoonful of grape juice or sherry wine, add a maraschino cherry and serve on small plates. Syllabub. No Southern housewife would consider her Christmas dinner complete without a big dish of syllabub. This is simply chilled cream sweetened in the propor- tion of two tablespoonfuls finely powdered sugar to each cup cream, then flavor with sherry or other sweet wine, whipped into a froth and pour over calves' foot jelly. This jelly may be made from any of the quick process gelatine pow- ders, though it is undoubtedly more nourishing when made at home under the watchful eye of the housewife. Procure your calves' feet, scald and clean them thoroughly, split, break the bones and put over the fire in a kettle, with four quarts of cold water. Heat slowly, skim, then simmer gently until the broth has been reduced to about three pints. This will take several hours. Strain and set aside until cold, when the fat can be readily re- moved. Return to the kettle with one cup sugar, the juice and grated yellow rind of two lemons, a blade of mace and three sticks of cinnamon each an inch long. Put over the fire and as it begins to heat add whites of three eggs beaten and their crushed shells. Cook five minutes until a thick scum has risen. Remove, then add one pint wine and strain through a napkin into a shallow dish. When ready to serve, cut into blocks and pile up lightly in a pretty glass dish. NEW YEAR'S DINNER FOR EIGHT PERSONS COSTS $4. Fileted Anchovies or Sardines, with Lemon. Celery. Cream of Tomato Soup. Roast Turkey or Guinea Fowl (eight pounds). Cranberry Jelly. Sweet or Irish Potatoes. Chicory or Endive Salad, with French Dressing. Mince Pie (home made). Ice Cream (three pints). Cakes. Coffee. Bread, Butter, &c. When the fowl comes home from the butcher's you will in all proba- bility find it dressed, and with the liver, gizzard and heart returned to ■ the inside. After removing all the little feathers that may have escaped notice when the fowl was plucked hold over the gas flame or a twisted newspaper lighted in the fire box of the coal stove and singe. Next remove the red parts — the lungs that cling to the ribs — and throw them away. Cut the oil bag carefully from the tail and take out every particle of it, as it imparts a strong odor. Turn the skin back at the neck and cut off the neck close to the body. Draw' out the tendons from the. drum sticks with a fork or a dull pointed skewer. This makes the flesh of the drumstick much more tender. All the fat from the inside of the fowl should be removed, for in a turkey, goose or duck it is too strong for cooking. All chicken fat should be saved and tried out, as it makes a most delicate short- ening, or it may be used in making 210 MENUS a mayonnaise dressing. After the fowl is well cleaned, wash thor- oughly inside and out, then rinse and dry. The giblets should be well cleaned, and then cooked in a saucepan with boiling salted water until tender, when they may be chopped and added to dressing or gravy, as preferred. If they are to be used in the dressing cook several hours beforehand. Stuffing for Fowl. The stuffing for a fowl of what- soever sort may be a plain bread variety, seasoned with parsley, onion, a little celery and salt and pepper; a chestnut stuffing, one of oysters, olives, mushrooms, or the giblets with the bread. A little sausage or fat salt pork mixed with bread makes a rich dressing. One of the best dressings is the dry Philadelphia stuffing. Dry Philadelphia Stuffing. To make this dressing, which is never soggy or heavy, as wet dressings are apt to be, but falls apart like well cooked rice when served, use two quarts of stale, finely crumbed bread. Season with two even tablespoonfuls salt, a heaping teaspoonful pepper, two teaspoonfuls each powdered sum- mer savory and minced parsley and one of powdered sage. Rub a cupful of butter through the bread crumbs; then, having dusted the cavity of the bird with salt and pepper and a little poultry season- ing or sage, stuff full and sew up. Push the legs close to the body and draw the wings back so that the breast may stand out plump and fair, affording the carver an easy task. Rub a tablespoonful salt over the bird, brush over with olive oil or melted butter, dredge with flour, lay breast down in the dripping pan and roast in a medium hot oven, basting frequently. If too hot protect the bird with a thick sheet of buttered paper or the paraffine paper that comes al- ready prepared. Allow ten minutes to the pound for roasting after the first twenty minutes. Yuletide Wedding Menu. For a large wedding refresh- ments should be passed from the dinner table, which should be ar- ranged as charmingly as possible. Spread your finest cloth and in the middle lay a pretty centrepiece and on this arrange a vase of scarlet poinsettas or holly. Radiating from this, star fashion, have holly branches. Use candles with holly shades. A simple menu might be bouil- lon served in cups, two kinds of sandwiches — ham and olive; lob- ster salad, ice cream served in flower or fruit shapes, fancy cakes, bonbons and coffee. Another good menu at this time would be creamed oysters, then cold turkey with a spoonful of cranberry jelly and a stalk of dressed celery on each plate, fol- lowed with a sweetbread, letuce salad and hot finger rolls. The next course would be ice with cake and fruit, followed by the black coffee. On a table at one side of the room have a large bowl of claret or fruit punch, with a ladle and glasses ready for guests to help themselves. Wreathe this bowl with Xmas greens. MENUS 211 MENUS FOR A WEEK THE SPRING. IN SUNDAY. Breakfast. Grape Fruit. Cereal. French Omelet. Rice Cakes, Maple Syrup. Coffee. Dinner. Oysters on the Half Shell. Olives. Radishes. Roast Veal with Dressing. Mashed Potatoes. Fried Egg Plant. Endive Salad. Rhubarb Pie. Cheese. Black Coffee. Supper. Baked Bean Salad. Devilled Eggs. Whole Wheat Bread and Butter. Lady Baltimore Cake. Custard. Tea. MONDAY. Breakfast. Cereal Cooked with Dates. Scrambled Eggs and Parsley. Creamed Potatoes. Toast. Coffee. Luncheon. Potato Cakes. Cold Veal. Corn Bread. Cookies. Orange Marmalade. Tea. Dinner. Cream of Potato Soup. Broiled Steak with Parsley Butter. Baked Potatoes. Asparagus on Toast. Young Beets and Beet Green Salad. Poor Man's Pudding. TUESDAY. Breakfast. Oranges. Cereal. Finnan Haddie, Watercress. Popovers. Coffee. Luncheon, Veal Olives. Baked Potatoes. Boiled Rice, Maple Syrup. Tea. Dinner. Tomato Soup. Olives. Gherkins. Braised Veal Cutlets with Currant Jelly. Parsnip Fritters. Sweet Potatoes. Asparagus Salad. Sliced Pineapple. Cake. Coffee. WEDNESDAY. Breakfast. Evaporated Apple Sauce. Cereal. French Omelet. Wheat Muffins. Coffee. Luncheon. Clam Chowder. Brown Bread and Butter. Pickles. .Gingerbread. Tea. 212 MENUS Dinner. Cream of Asparagrus Soup. Filet of Flounder. New Potatoes with Parsley Butter Stewed Tomatoes. Lettuce Salad. Cottage Pudding. Coffee. THURSDAY. Breakfast. Oranges. Cereal. Eggs a la Caracas. Rice Cakes. Coffee. Luncheon. Hamburger Steak. Baked Potatoes. Lettuce with French Dressing. Raisin Cake. Baked Rhubarb. Tea. Dinner. Vermicelli Soup. Radishes. Pickles. Pork and Parsnip Stew. Pineapple Shortcake with Whipped Cream. Black Coffee. Dinner. Cream of Celery Soup. Broiled Shad. Creamed Potatoes. Oyster Plant. Endive Salad. Tapioca Pudding with Meringue. Coffee, SATURDAY. Breakfast. Bananas and Oranges. Cereal. Ham and Eggs. Graham Gems. Coffee. Luncheon. Frizzled Beef. Cream Toast. Currant Tarts. Tea. Dinner. Split Pea Soup with Croutons. Pickles. Pot Roast of Beef, Browned Potatoes. Creamed Turnips and Peas. Lettuce with French Dressing. Cabinet Pudditjg. Black Coffee. FRIDAY. Breakfast. Evaporated Apricots, Stewed. Cereal. Broiled Mackerel, Watercress. Wheat Muffins. Coffee. Luncheon. Creamed Codfish. Boiled Potatoes. Pickles. Apple Sauce. Cake. Tea. MENUS FOR A WEEK IS EARLY SUMMER. SUNDAY. Breakfast. Strawberries au naturel. Cereal. Broiled Brook Trout or Shad. Watercress. Graham Gems. Coffee. MENUS 218 Dinner. Fruit Cocktail. Radishes. Young Onions. White Fricassee of Chicken with Parsley. Potato Balls. Rice Fritters. Tomato and Lettuce Salad. Cheese Straws. Lemon Ice. Chocolate Wafers. Iced Tea. Black Coffee. Supper. Potato Salad. Saratoga Chips. Bread and Butter Sandwiches. Currants. White Cake. Iced Tea. MONDAY. Breakfast. Fresh Fruit or Orange Marmalade. Cereal. Broiled Ham. Rolls. Coffee. Limcheon. Asparagus Omelet. Lettuce Salad. Fruit. Cookies. Coffee. Dinner. Clear Soup. Olives. Radishes. Broiled Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. Green Peas, Mint Sauce. Lettuce and Radish Salad. Strawberry Shortcake with Whipped Cream. Black Coffee. TUESDAY. Breakfast. Fruit. Cereal. Poached Eggs on Toast. Coffee. Luncheon. Chicken Croquettes. Creamed Potatoes. Red Raspberries. Cake. Iced Tea. Dinner. Asparagus Soup. Bread Sticks. Broiled Shad. Green Peas. Boiled Potatoes. Dandelion Salad. Bavarian Cream. Black Coffee. WEDNESDAY. Breakfast. Cherries or Other Fresh Fruit. Cereal. Spanish Omelet. Oatmeal Scones. Coffee. Luncheon. Salmon Salad. Bread and Butter. Orange Cake. Lemon Jelly. Iced Tea. Dinner. Clam Cocktails. Pickled Young String Beans. Lamb Potpie. Summer Squash. Mashed Potatoes. Dressed Cucumbers. ; Floating Island. Black Coffee. THURSDAY. Breakfast. Canteloupe or Other Fresh Fruit. Broiled Bluefish. Sliced Cucumbers. Rice Cakes. Coffee. 214 MENUS Luncheon. Eggs with Curry Sauce. Brown Bread and Butter. Fruit. Gingerbread. Iced Cocoa. Dinner. Carrot Soup. Radishes. StuflFed Shoulder of Veal, Roasted. Potato SoufBe. Green Corn. Moulded Spinach with French Dressing. Vanilla Ice, Chocolate Sauce. Black Coffee. Luncheon. Dried Beef with Cream Sauce. Graham Bread and Butter. Radishes. Strawberry Shortcake Tea. Dinner. Cream of Asparagus Soup. Lamb Fricassee with Dumplings. Mint Jelly. Green Peas. Lettuce. Cherry Pie. Coffee. FRIDAY. Breakfast. Raspberries. Cereal. Parsley Omelet. Coffee. MENUS FOR A WEEK IN THE AUTUMN. Rolls. Luncheon. Tomato Toast. Green Pea Salad. Crullers. Cream Cheese. Tea. Dinner. Clams on Half Shell. Scalloped Fish. Baked Potatoes. Broiled Tomatoes. Sponge Corn Bread. Lettuce with French Dressing. Raspberry Float. Black Coffee. SUNDAY. Breakfast. Canteloupe. Fried Oysters, Watercress. Grilled Sweet Potatoes. Toast. Coffee. Dinner. Cream of Celery Soup. Baked Squab wi.h Bread Stuffing. Creamed Mashed Potatoes. Cold Tomatoes with Mayonnaise. Fruit. Cheese. Black Coffee. SATURDAY. Bresdcfast. Fruit. Cereal, Broiled Chops, Watercress. Rice Waffles. Coffee. Supper. Hot Milk Toast. Frizzled Beef. Sliced Peaches with Whipped Cream. Sponge Cake. Chocolate. MENUS 215 MONDAY, Breakfast. Peaches and Cream. Cereal. Radishes in Ice. Broiled Bacon. Rolls. Coffee. Luncheon. Green Apple Sauce. Clam Fritters. Corn Bread. Cake. Tea. Dinner. Puree of Lima Beans. Broiled Steak with Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Baked Potatoes. String Beans. Romaine Salad. Apple Pie. Cheese. Black Coffee. WEDNESDAY, Breakfast. Grapes. Cereal. Broiled Tomatoes with Cream. Gravy. Corn Meal Gems. Coffee. Luncheon, Cold Roast Beef. Baked Potatoes. Cucumbers and Green Peppers. Brown Bread and Butter. Gingerbread. Baked Apples. Tea. Dinner. Cream of Corn Soup. Pickles. Radishes. Fried Breast of Lamb, Macaroni and Tomato. Sweet Potatoes. Tomato and Green Pepper Salad. Watermelon. Coffee. TUESDAY. Breakfast. Canteloupe. Cereal. Hash Balls. Toast. Radishes. Coffee. Luncheon. Macaroni Rarebit. Fried Green Tomatoes. Fruit. Wafers. Tea. Dinner, Watermelon. Roast Beef. Franconia Potatoes. Yorkshire Pudding. Sliced Tomatoes. Baked Peaches with Cream. Coffee. THURSDAY. Breakfast. Fruit. Cereal. Minced Beef on Toast. Coffee. Luncheon, Fried Hominy. Lamb Mince with Green Peppers. Fruit. Cookies. Cocoa. Dinner, Vegetable Soup. Mock Diick, Currant Jelly. Mashed Potatoes. Turnips. Tomatoes with French Dressing. Peach Shortcake. Coffee. 216 MENUS FRIDAY. Breakfast. Grapes. Cereal. Scrambled Eggs with Green Peppers. Wheat Gems. Coffee. Luncheon. Salmi of Mock Duck. Potato Balls. Graham Bread. Peaches. Cocoa. Dinner. Cream of Cabbage Sou Baked Bluefish. Mash Potatoes. Tomatoes Stuffed with Rice. Cabbage Salad. Pumpkin Pie. Cheese. Black Coffee. SATURDAY. Breakfast. Canteloupe. Cereal. Hamburger Steak. Fried Potato. Blueberry Biscuit. Coffee. Luncheon. Fish Chowder. Crackers. Sliced Tomatoes. Sponge Cake. Spiced Grapes. Tea. Dinner. , Barley Soup. Chili Sauce. Mustard. Corned Beef. Boiled Potatoes. Young Beets and Beet Greens. Indian Pudding. Black Coffee. MENUS FOR A WEEK IS THE WINTER. SUNDAY. Breakfast. Grape Fruit or Oranges. Pinhead Oatmeal. (cooked in double boiler). Corned Beef Hash, with Poached Eggs. Cornmeal Muffins. Coffee. Dinner. Vegetable Soup, with Croutons. Celery. Pickled Tomatoes. Chicken Potpie, with Baking Powder Biscuit. Rice. Sweet Potatoes. Tomato au Gratin. Lettuce Salad. Cheese Fingers. Fruit Jelly, with Whipped Cream. Black Coffee. Supper. Creamed Oysters or Welsh Rarebit in Chafing Dish. Lettuce Sandwiches on Toast. Olives. Home Made Orange Cake. Baked Prunes, with Lemon. Frothed Chocolate. From Sunday's provisions you will doubtless have left over enough soup, with the addition of a little rice and tomato, to do for Monday's dinner; enough of the baking powder biscuit to reheat for breakfast, and enough of the chick- en to saute in butter and serve with a brown gravy for dinner. There may be also two or three sweet MENUS 217 potatoes that are better for being cooked twice, some of the cake and some of the prunes. Monday's menu then might be: — MONDAY. Breakfast. Stewed Prunes. Oatmeal (resteamed in double boiler). Scrambled Eggs. Baking Powder Biscuit (Put in paper bag, twist tigh*-ly and heat in oven for ten minutes). Coffee. Luncheon. (Some of the oatmeal that has been moulded, sliced, dipped in flour and fried). Baked Potatoes. Chicken Gravy. Wafers. Tea. Dinner. Rice and Tomato Vegetable Soup. Pickled Beets (from Saturday's dinner). Sauted Chicken, with Brown Gravy. Candied Sweet Potatoes. Lettuce and Green Pepper Salad. Orange Cake. Fruit Jelly. Coffee. TUESDAY. Breakfast. Orange Marmalade. Farina Scrapple. Pancakes. Maple Syrup. Coffee. Luncheon. Bubble and Squeak (made from the remains of Saturday's boiled dinner). Toast. Cookies. Apple Sauce. Tea. Dinner. Cream Celery Soup (made from the coarser parts of the celery left from Sunday). Mock Duck. Baked Potatoes. Macaroni. Cold Slaw. Apple pie. Cheese and Coffee. WEDNESDAY. Breakfast. Apple Sauce (made frftm evaporated apples.). Cornmeal Mush. Crisped Bacon and Calf's Liver. Popovers. Coffee. Luncheon. Omelet. Bread and Butter. Cookies. Tea. Dinner. Split Pea Soup, with Croutons and Lemon. Sliced Mock Duck, with Spanish Sauce and Toast Points. Cranberry Jelly. Baked Potatoes. Tomato Jelly and Lettuce Salad. Farina Mould, with Preserved Peaches and Cream. Coffee. THURSDAY. Breakfast. Baked Apples. Fried Mush, with Maple Syrup. Boiled Eggs. Coffee. 218 MENUS Luncheon. Baked Beans, with Tomato Sauce. Pickles. Whole Wheat Bread and Butter. Orange Marmalade. Crullers. Cocoa. Dinner. Baked Bean Soup, with Lemon. Sirloin Steak. Mashed Potatoes. Fried Onions Chicory Salad. Tapioca Pudding. Coffee. FRIDAY. Breakfast. Stewed Apricots. Prepared Cereal. Codfish Balls. Cornmeal Gems. Coffee. Luncheon. Boiled Eggs. Delmonico Potatoes. Sliced Oranges. Cookies. Tea. Dinner. Oyster Soup. Fried Smelts, with Mayonnaise. Potato Balls, with Cream and Parsley. Endive Salad. Wafers. Cheese. Shortcake (made with canned peaches or pineapples). Coffee. SATURDAY. Breakfast. Cereal, with Dates. Home Made Hamburg Steak (made from the tough end of the Sirloin steak). Quick Biscuit. Coffee. Luncheon. Mince of Beef on Toast (made from left overs and tomato). Bread and Butter. Warm Gingerbread. Cheese. Tea. Dinner. Tomato Soup. Corned Beef. Boiled Potatoes. Cabbage. Beets. Steamed Indian Pudding, with Hard Sauce. Coffee. MENUS FOR A WEEK IN MIDWINTER. SUNDAY. Breakfast. Grape Fruit. Cereal. Fried Country Sausage. Fried Potatoes. Buckwheat Cakes. Coffee. Dinner., Noodle Soup. Olives. Tomato Pickles. Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce, Giblet Gravy. Mashed Potatoes. Creamed Onions. Apple and Celery Salad. Coffee Jelly with Whipped Cream. Coffee. Supper. Stuffed Potatoes. Cold Turkey with Cranberry. Dried Apple Cake. Cream Cheese. Chocolate. MENUS 219 MONDAY. Breakfast. Evaporated Apple Sauce. Cereal. Fried Salt Pork with Cream Gravy. Fried Potatoes. Pancakes, Maple Syrup. Coffee. Dinner. Turkey Soup (made from bones). Pickled Tomatoes. Roast Beef, Browned Potatoes. Macaroni and Cheese. Moulded Tomato Salad on Lettuce Leaves with French Dressing. Mince Pie. Black Coffee. Luncheon. Potatoes en Surprise, Rye Bread. WafHes with Honey. Tea. Dinner. Beef Soup with Bread Sticks. Celery. Home Made Pickles. Cold Sliced Turkey. Baked Potatoes with Hot Turkey Gravy and Dressing. Baked Hubbard Squash. Cabbage Salad. Cabinet Pudding. Black Coflfee. TUESDAY. Breakfast. Evaporated Apricots, Stewed, Cereal. Crisped Bacon. Pancakes, Maple Syrup. CoflEee. Luncheon. Potatoes en Surprise. Baked Apples with Cream, Warm Gingerbread' Tea. WEDNESDAY. Breakfast. Oranges. Cereal. Finnan Haddie. Coffee Cake. Coffee. Luncheon. Co'd Roast Beef. French Fried Potatoes, Stewed Tomatoes. Bread and Butter. Marmalade. Tea. Dinner. Anchovies with Olives and Lemon. Pea Soup with Croutons. Shoulder of Fresh Pork, Stuffed with Prunes. Mashed Potatoes. Hubbard Squash. Cabbage Salad. Apple Dumplings with Lemon Sauce. Coffee. THURSDAY. Breakfast. Grape Fruit. Cereal. Scrapple. Buckwheat Cakes. Coffee. 220 MENUS Luncheon. Potato Balls. Cold Pork with Apple Sauce. Molasses Cookies. Cheese. Cocoa. Dinner. "Pot Luck" Soup. (made from left overs). Bread Sticks. Roast Mutton, Spiced Currants. Baked Potatoes. Hot Slaw. Suet Pudding with Hard Sauce. Coffee. FRIDAY. Breakfast. Baked Apples with Cream. Cereal. Codfish Balls. Graham Gems. Coffee. Luncheon. Fried Mush with Maple Syrup. Baked Prunes. Chocolate. Dinner. Black Bean Soup with Croutons. Olives. Pickled Pears. Baked Weak Fish. Scalloped Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. Lettuce with French Dressing. Lemon Meringue Pie. Black Coffee. SATURDAY. Breakfast. Oranges. Cereal. Fried Sausage. Fried Sweet Potatoes. Wheat Pancakes. Coffee. Luncheon. Mock Venison (made from left over mutton). Baked Sweet Potatoes. Apple Turnovers. Tea. Dinner. Oyster Soup. Celery. Pickles. Baked Beans, Steamed Brown Bread. Potato Salad. Cheese. Crackers. Apple Pie. Black Coffee. LENTEN MENUS WITHOUT MEAT. SUNDAY. Breakfast. Grape Fruit. Cereal. Codfish Balls. Boiled Eggs. Graham Muffins. Coffee. Dinner. Cream of Tomato Soup. Olives. Celery. . Roast Chicken, Cranberry Jelly. Sweet Potatoes. Creamed Onions. Lettuce with French Dressing. Pineapple Charlotte. Coffee. Supper. Creamed Oysters in Chafing Dish. Lettuce Sandwiches. Almond Custard. Chocolate Cake. Cocoa, MENUS 221 MONDAY. Breakfast. Oranges. ■^ Cereal. French Omelet. Fried Potatoes. Rolls. Coffee. Luncheon. Tomato Toast. Baked Potatoes. Baked Apples with Nuts and Sugar Stuffing, Served with Cream. Gingerbread. Tea. Dinner. Split Pea Soup, Croutons. Ripe Olives. Pickles. Scalloped Potatoes with Cheese. Devilled Eggs. Endive Salad. Cheese Straws. Cottage Pudding, Lemon Sauce. Coffee (Demi-Tasse). Dinner. Vegetable Soup. Radishes. Salted Peanuts. Filet of Flounder with Lemon ar4 Parsley. Mashed Potatoes. Turnips and Green Peas in Cream Sauce. Lettuce with French Dressing. Tapioca Pudding with Meringue. Black Coffee. WEDNESDAY. Breakfast. Stewed Evaporated Apples. Cereal.' Scrambled Eggs with Green Peppers. Cornmeal Gems. Coffee. Luncheon. Cream Toast. Devilled Eggs. Warm Gingerbread. Cheese. Cocoa. Stewed Prunes. TUESDAY. Breakfast. Stewed Apricots. Cereal. Baked Finnan Haddie. Watercress. Popovers. Coffee. Luncheon. Fried Cornmeal Mush with Maple Syrup. Bread and Butter. Fresh Molasses Cookies. Cheese. Orange Marmalade. Tea. Dinner. Clam Chowder. Pickles. Celery. Lobster Chops, Sauce Tartare. Baked Potatoes. Cold Slaw. Lemon Pie. Coffee. THURSDAY. Breakfast. Farina Cooked in Milk. Beauregard Eggs. Fried Potatoes. Spider Corncake, Hot Maple Sauce. Coffee. 222 MENU'S Luncheon. Clam Fritters. Nut and Banana Salad. English Cheese. Whole Wheat Bread. Chocolate. Dinner. Cream of Celery Soup. Baked Salmon, Sauce Hollandaise. Mashed Potatoes. Moulded Spinach. Rice Pudding with Raisins and Hard Sauce. Coffee (Demi-Tasse). FRIDAY. Breakfast. Bananas. Cereal. Quaker Omelet with Cream Sauce. Rice Muffins. Coffee. Luncheon. Cheese Ramekins. Buns. Sliced Oranges. Patty Pancakes. Chocolate. Dinner. Oyster Soup. Olives. Cold Slaw. Rice Spanish Omelet, Macaroni. Russian Salad. Maple Custard. Little Cakes. Black Coffee. SATURDAY. Breakfast. Baked Prunes with Figs and Lemons. Oatmeal. Broiled Mackerel, Watercress. Coffee Cake. Coffee. Luncheon. Succotash. Whole Wheat Bread and Butter. Wheat Cakes with Maple Syrup. Cocoa. Dinner. Bisque of Clam. Halibut. Cauliflower with Brown Butter Sauce. Mashed Potatoes. Escarole Salad. Toasted Wafers and Cheese. Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. Black Coffee. Tin Wedding Menu. Tinned refreshments to celebrate the tenth wedding anniversary might be baked beans in tin cans or baked in individual tin moulds, tinned meats for the sandwiches, tinned bouillon, tinned biscuit and wafers, tinned fish of various kinds, cheese and bonbons in tin foil. Or the menu could include bouil- lon or consomme served in tin cups, lobster or salmon creamed in little dishes with sandwiches, jel- lied chicken or chicken croquettes with rolls, and ice with cake, then coffee. Waldorf Thanksgiving Dinner Menu. Cape Cod Oysters. Giblet Soup. Sheepshead with Hollandaise Sauce. Tomatoes Stuffed with Cucumbers. Saddle of New Jersey Mutton. Macedoine of Fresh Vegetables. Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts. Cranberry Sauce. Brussels Sprouts. Potato Palestine. MENUS 223 Lettuce and Grape Fruit Salad with Cracked Almonds. Plum Pudding with Rum Sauce. Mince and Pumpkin Pies. Glace Plombiere. Cafe. Thanksgiving Menu (Hotel Savoy) Olives. Celery. Radishes. Blue Point Oysters on the Half Shell. Shin of Beef, Scotch Style. Sheepshead served New England Style. Boiled Potatoes, German Fashion. Virginia Ham. Sweet Potatoes, Georgia Style. Creamed Spinach. Roast Turkey Stuffed with Chest- nuts. Cranberry and Giblet Sauce. Celery and Apple Salad. English Plum Pudding. Water Ice. Fruit. Cake. Coflfee. A Second Menu from the Savoy. Radishes. Olives. Celery. Cold Stuffed Eggs Tartare. Pot-au-Feu with Parmesan Cheese Toast. Planked Weakfish, Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Cucumbers. Saddle Southdown Mutton with Currant Jelly. Mashed Turnips. Brussels Sprouts. Roman Punch. Roast Turkey, Stuffed New Eng- land Style. Cranberry and Giblet Sauce Lettuce and Tomato Salad. Plum Pudding, New England Style. Pumpkin Pie, Fruits. A Simple and Elegant Thanksgiv- ing Menu (Hotel Savoy). Caviare d'Astrachan. Terrapin Baltimore. English Mutton Chops, Broiled. Georgia Sweet Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. Alligator Pear Salad. Coupe Jacques. Fruit. Bar le Due and Gervais. Cafe. Refreshments for the Lunch Basket. Lettuce and Mayonnaise Sandwiches. Swiss Cheese Sandwiches. Egg Rolls. Devilled Eggs. Pimolas. Pickles. Saratoga Chips. Nut Cake. Home Made Chocolate Fudge Cake. Peaches. Plums. Bananas. Home Made Blackberry Shrub. Lemonade. Washington's Birthday Supper Menus. No. 1. Grape Fruit Cut in Halves with Maraschino Cherries. Pimentoes. Salted Nuts. Virginia Oyster Soup. Virginia Fried Chicken with Cream Gravy. Sweet Potatoes. Beaten Biscuit. Peas. Cheese Salad. Vanilla Ice Cream and Preserved Peaches. Coffee. Dolly Madison Cake. Simpler refreshments might be: — Chicken Patties. 224 MENUS Maryland Biscuit. Pickled Oysters. Cherry Ice. Cherry Cake. Coffee or Egg Nog. No. 2. Turtle Soup. Madison Biscuit. Devilled Clams. Chicken Croquettes. Candied Sweet Potatoes. Fried Sweet Peppers. Corn Cake. Crab Salad served in Tomatoes. Cream Cheese' Balls. Red and White Bar le Due. Toasted Crackers. Cherry Mousse. Martha Washington Fruit Cake. New Orleans Brulo. Artichokes served in this style would be a tasty addition: — Hearts of Artichokes Filled with Russian Caviare. (On a layer of hard boiled eggs, and in the centre a half olive stuffed with sweet pepper; served on individual plates.) Menus for Seven Course Luncheon. No. 1. Grape Fruit with Maraschino Cherries. Bouillon with Whipped Cream and Hot Wafers. Broiled Smelts, Sauce Tartare. Lamb Chops. Cream Potatoes.. French Peas. Celery and Nut Salad in Green Pepper Cases. Ice Cream with Hot Maple Sauce. Small Cakes. Cheese Straws. Coffee. No. 2. Oyster Cocktail. Bouillon with English Biscuit. Chicken and Mushroom Patties with Cream Sauce, Bread and Butter Rolls. Potato Timbales. French Peas. Hollowed Tomatoes with Lettuce Centres and Mayonnaise. Cheese and Cracker Sandwiches. Maraschino Cherries and Jelly. Home Made Cake. Coffee. Cordial. Olives, salted nuts, preserved ginger or bonbons may be on the table through all the courses. Rhode Island Clam Bake Without Sea Weed. A clam bake in a boiler will not taste like an open air bake without seaweed unless clean hay moist- ened with salt water (sea salt ob- tainable at druggists' would be best, though not essential) is used. Surely stones could be found in any country place. Those the size of cobbles are best, but a bed of heated stones is necessary to cook the "bake." Possibly a large flat rock would do. Place the stones close together in a slightly hollowed circular spot from three to six feet across. On this build a huge bonfire, and let it burn briskly for two hours. When the fire dies down sweep off the embers with boughs and branches and spread a thick layer of the wet hay on the hissing hot stones. Then potatoes, Irish and sweet, are scattered over the sea- weed or hay. Oysters and clams in the shell come next. Fish and chickens seasoned and prepared for cooking — the chicken is handier MENUS 225 if cut up as for fricassee — are wrap- ped in pieces of clean cheesecloth and added to the bake. Lobsters and crabs are also sometimes used. Over all spread sweet corn from which the outer husks have been peeled. Now, with pitchforks cover everything from sight with a thick layer of the wet hay and draw a large canvas or sailcloth over the whole bake. Around the edges sand or dirt is shovelled till there is not a crack or crevice from which steam can escape. Leave the bake to cook for two hours without disturbing, then carefully roll the canvas aside, re- move the hay and dish up the bake, putting each kind of food on large platters or shining tin pans. Fin- ish off with watermelons and cof- fee. Allow two ears of corn, two po- tatoes, both sweet and Irish, twelve oysters and clams for each person. One small chicken for four persons, and two large fish for each party of twenty-five, as all do not partake of the latter. St. Valentine Supper Menu. Eros Cocktails. Turtle Doves in Love Apple Sauce. Sauted Heart. Arrow Sandwiches. Cupid Salad. Pickles. Kisses. Dates. Juliet Sherbet. Romeo Cakes. Coffee. New England Boiled Dinner. This old fashioned dinner has for its foundation corned beef, with potatoes, cabbage, beets, turnips and, if desired, carrots and crooked neck squashes for vegetables, all cooked in the corned beef liquor and served on a large platter with the beef as a centre. The dessert that usually goes with the boiled dinner, according to tradition, is Indian Pudding or a steamed cher- ry pudding. The great secret in cooking the beef so as to have it juicy and ten- der is long, slow cooking. The piece chosen is the rump if you wish all lean, or the plate or brisket if you like a little fat with the meat. Wash a four or five pound piece in cold water, letting it stand in the water for half an hour or so. Then put on to boil in a large pot with plenty of fresh water to cover. Heat slowly to the boiling point, skim well, then push back on the stove where it can simply simmer for three or four hours until tender but not "raggy." If you have started the cooking early enough in the day, let the meat cool in the water in which it has been boiled. Take out when quite cold, put on a flat shallow dish; cover with a plate and set a weight on it. Take the fat from the meat liquor. All this may be done the day before the dinner is to be served, if desired. Beets also may be cooked the day before. About two hours before dinner put into ithe boiling pot liquor, which has been saved for this purpose, a small cabbage, cut in quarters with the core removed, and the carrots scraped and cut in halves. Pare the turnips, slice and add to the same pot soon after the cabbage begins to boil. Half an hour before dinner the peeled potatoes and squash may be added. If the beets were not cooked beforehand they are cleaned without bruising and boiled in some of the pot liquor ladled out 226 MENUS in a separate kettle. If not enough add boiling salted water to cover the beets. When tender, throw into cold water. Scrape off the skin, slice and dress with butter and vinegar. Put the pressed cold beef in the centre of a large platter and serve carrots, turnips and potatoes ranged symmetrically about it. Chop the cabbage rather coarsely and serve in a separate dish. Mustard, catsup or horseradish accompany the din- ner as needed relishes. FIFTY CENTS A DAY FOR DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS. SUNDAY. Dinner. Veal or Lamb Potpie, with plenty of gravy, onion and biscuit crust, 2Sc. Cabbage Salad with Boiled Dressing, Sc. Poor Man's Rice Pudding with Raisins, 10c. Supper. Hasty Pudding and Milk, 10c. MONDAY. Luncheon. Fried Mush with Brown Sugar Syrup, Sc. Whole Wheat Bread with Bacon Gravy, 3c. Cocoa, Sc. Dinner. Split Pea Soup with Croutons (Made with Ham Bones, 8c. Baked Potatoes. Finnan Haddie (Baked in Milk), ISc. Bread, 4c. Prunes, Sc. Coffee, Sc. TUESDAY. Luncheon. Samp Cooked with Beans and Pork, ISc. Bread, 3c. Apple Sauce Made from Evaporated Apples, 5c. Tea, 2c. Dinner. Scalloped Potatoes with Cheese, ISc. Bread, 3c. Baked Prunes, Sc. Tea, 2c. WEDNESDAY. Luncheon. Whole Wheat Bread, Apple Butter, Cocoa, ISc. Dinner. Beef Stew, ISc. Dressed Cabbage, 3c. Corn Bread, Sc. Boiled Rice, Hard Sauce, 7c. Coffee, Sc. THURSDAY. Luncheon. Corn Meal Gems, 6c. Orange Marmalade, Sc. Cocoa, 3c. MENUS 227 Dinner. Macaroni with Cheese and To- mato, ISc. Warm Biscuit, 6c. Syrup, 4c. Molasses Cookies, 9c. Tea, 2c. FRIDAY. Luncheon. Baked Potato, Bloaters, Whole Wheat Bread, 18c. Apple Sauce, Sc. Tea, 2c. Dinner. Creamed Codfish with One Egg, ISc Boiled Potatoes, 3c. Corn Bread, Sc. Tea, 2c. SATURDAY. Luncheon. Scrambled Eggs, 6c. Baked Potatoes, 4c. Bread, 4c. Apple Sauce, Sc. Ginger Bread, Sc. Tea, Ic. Dinner. Baked Beans, ISc. Brown Bread, Sc. Baked Prunes, Sc. Coffee, Sc. In case housewives do not know how to make a good corn bread, I will give this recipe made with- out eggs: — Stir together one tablespoonful each sugar and shortening. The last can be either drippings (but not from smoked meat), lard or cottolene. Add one cupful sour milk into which a half teaspoonful soda has been beaten, and a salt- spoonful of salt. Add wheat flour and meal, two-thirds meal and one- third flour. It must not be too stiff, but just so the batter will flatten out when poured into the hot gem pans or in a little pan. Bake about twenty minutes. Lunch for a Sailing Party. Bread that will keep moist when made into sandwiches for such a trip is sold at all first class bak- eries. It comes in rectangular shape, larger than the ordinary loaf, and costs ten cents. For regu- lar customers the bakers slice the bread in the wafer thin slices with- out extra charge, but ask five cents for the cutting to other customers. The stamping into fancy shapes is done at home, using the little tin cutters that can be purchased at any housefurnishing or department store. They come in the shape of leaves, flowers, ovals, diamonds, hearts, etc. For a picnic menu, dainty and a little out of the ordinary, I would suggest: — Fried Chicken or Chicken Salad. Saratoga Chips or Potato Salad. Lettuce Sandwiches of White Bread. Cream Cheese and Nut Sandwiches of Brown Bread. Fancy Ribbon Sandwiches. Eggs Stuffed with Sardines. Olives. Pickles. Radishes. Bar le Due Jelly or Cuban Orange Marmalade. Lady Fingers, Macaroons or Choc- olate Wafers. Peaches, Plumbs or Oranges. Grape Juice or Claret, to be diluted with Cold Water. 228 MENUS In carrying the salad pack the individual portions in the smallest size wooden butter dishes to be found at the grocers,' lining them first with a large lettuce leaf, then covering with a second. Four of these can be set in the bottom of a pasteboard box, then covered with a sheet of pasteboard, upon which a layer of something light can stand. Of course, the box is sizable and must be carried "right side up with care," but after the^ luncheon it can be thrown away.i Use an abundance of waxed paper' in packing everything that there need be no commingling of flavors. The paraffine paper costs but a penny a sheet and comes in five cent rolls. The club sandwich is such an in- tricate affair nowadays, with its various layers of chicken and toast and bacon and lettuce and mayon- naise, that it is hardly advisable for a picnic. the flavor better than the other peppers. Mix with the cheese a half cup grated or chopped nuts, preferably English walnuts, and spread on thin slices of lightly but- tered brown, whole wheat or rye bread. Ribbon Sandwiches. These are made by cutting brown and white bread in perfectly even ^ slices half an inch thick, buttered jeach side, then arrange alternately I brown and white in an even pile. Place an inverted plate on top and set away for an hour or two, cov- I ering with a damp napkin to pre- vent the bread from becoming dry. Then trim off the crust evenly from the four sides and cut in slices just half an inch thick and these again into strips. The bread must not be packed over three and a half inches high, lest strips and slices break apart. Olive Sandwiches. If you do not care for the lettuce sandwiches, try these made of olives. Cut the meat off the stones, chop fine, mix with mayonnaise and spread between thin slices of white bread from which the crust has been removed. No butter is required with the mayonnaise. Cut into squares, then triangles and wrap each separately in waxed paper. Brown Bread and Neufchatel Cheese Sandwiches. Break up the cheese and if rather dry soften with a spoonful of milk or cream. Add a little salt and a dash of paprika, which develops Eggs Stuffed with Sardines. Boil fresh eggs twenty minutes, then plunge into cold water; shell and cut in halves crosswise. Press the yolks out into a bowl, taking care not to break the whites and keeping the two halves of each egg together. Mash the yolks with a silver fork and season lightly with salt and pepper. Drain the oil from some sardines, remove tails and bones, wash, add to the yolks, mix thoroughly, then refill the whites and skewer together with Japanese wooden toothpicks. This egg filling may be varied by using boiled ham, minced fine, sea- soned with pepper and a bit of made mustard in place of the sar- dines, or minced tongue, olives, MENUS 229 fine chopped chow chow, capers or minced mushrooms. Pressed Chicken. Perhaps you may prefer pressed chicken to the salad or fried chick- en. To prepare it, singe, clean and disjoint a good sized fowl. Wash thoroughly, cover with cold water and simmer gently until the flesh is ready to drop from the bones. When half done, season highly with salt, pepper, celery salt and one small onion stuck with two or three cloves. When the chicken is perfectly tender remove all the skin and bone and shred the meat in good sized pieces. Boil two or three eggs hard, cool and cut in thin slices. Remove all fat from the chicken gravy, then boil down to about a cupful. Moisten the meat with this, then pack in layers in a well buttered mould, arrang- ing slices of egg over each layer. Cover with a plate and set a weight on it. Stand in a cool place until the next day. Lettuce sandwiches are specially good served with the pressed chicken. Picnic Menus. Many a housewife who finds no trouble in devising dainty and at- tractive menus for the home table declares herself feazed when it comes to the preparation of the picnic basket. Yet it is not a dif- ficult undertaking when one gets on to the "pull of the ropes." Even in the home meals there must be forethought to see that all neces- sary materials are on hand. Even more so is this essential in putting up luncheon, for half the pleasure of a picnic depends on the effi- ciency of its commissary depart- ment, and any serious oversight when one is twenty miles from a lemon or any other desired edible is a misfortune hard to bear. Picnic luncheons should vary ac- cording to the prospective stage setting and the mode of journey thither. If the party is to motor, sail or drive to its destination, with plenty of room for hampers and accessories, the bill of fare may be much more varied and comprehen- sive than when one goes on trolley or wheel or expects to tramp to the picnic ground. In the latter case it is necessary to go in light marching order, everything as compact as possible, and things must be stowed away in boxes in- stead of baskets, that may be thrown away when the meal is finished. Individual drinking cups should be included in every luncheon out- fit, and the new paper collapsible cups that now come for three or four cents apiece solve the ques- tion that was erstwhile a perplex- ing one. Paper napkins and table cloths, a whole set of the later con- sisting of fancy cloth 42 x 56 and a dozen napkins to match, put up in stout envelope cases, may be bought at ten cents for a set. Picnic Sandwiches. It goes without saying that sand- wiches are the backbone of all out- of-door luncheons, and the roster of delightful ones is long. The "binding" may be a light tender wheat bread, at least twenty-four hours old and cut wafer thin; may be brown bread or whole wheat bread cut thicker; may be a two story affair, with both white and 230 MENUS brown bread in amicable relations; may be substantial slices of rye or pumpernickel, a tender baking powder biscuit, a fluffy, melt-in- your-mouth roll, or cornbread or gems that are not too crumbly. The filling must accord with its binding and its name is legion. With the dainty slices of wheat bread comes first a spreading of sweet butter applied with a light hand. Then comes the heart of the sandwich, which may be cavi- are mixed with a little lemon juice, anchovies pounded to a paste and mixed with equal quantities stoned and chopped olives and a sprinkling of minced parsley, a slice of chicken breast salted and prepared with a protecting leaf of crispy lettuce moistened with mayon- naise, nasturtium leaves, blossoms and stems lightly salted, sprigs of watercress seasoned, minced chicken moistened with own stock, gravy or mayonnaise, equal quan- tities chopped chicken and ham, with a few minced truffles thrown in a mince of ham and veal in combination, of tongue and veal, wafer thin slices of boiled tongue, or tongue in aspic cut in delicate slices and laid with equally thin slices of tomato salad and pep- pered between rounds of buttered bread. Tasty Additions to the Luncheon. Tasty additions to the luncheon are a souse of pigs' feet, veal loaf, broiled chicken, smoked salmon sliced thin, boned herring, baked beans, chicken salad, put up in little individual paper cases, then packed in a large box and carried "right side up with care." Swiss cheese sliced thin never goes beg- ging. Saratoga chips are tasty and easy to carry and serve. A pigeon pie is extremely English and ex- tremely nice, as also lamb cutlets in aspic jelly. Relishes for the Picnic Basket. Among the tasty relishes for the picnic basket are olives (opening the bottle and pouring off the liquor before packing), pickles, salted peanuts, radishes (not for- getting to put in the salt shaker), popcorn, young onions for those who are especially fond of them and tomatoes. Sweets for Topping Off. Among the sweets best for top- ping off the luncheon are currant tarts, carrying shells and jelly sep- arately and putting together be- fore serving; apple or berry turn- overs, a glass of bar-le-duc or other jelly, chocolate and sponge cake, cookies and crullers, pre- served ginger, crystallized fruits, and if there is to be a camp fire plenty of marshmallows for toast- ing. Liquids. As a large amount of liquid is awkward to carry it is usually better to take a small bottle of something concentrated that may be diluted with cold water when ready to serve the lunch. The juice of lemons may be squeezed out and made as sweet as desired; then bottled. Raspberry or cherry shrub is refreshing, allowing a couple of tablespoonfuls to each glass of cold water. Tea may be made quite strong, so as to bear reducing, carrying along lemons MENUS 281 and block sugar to be added when serving. Grape juice is always ap- preciated. Ginger beer has its ad- herents, and a couple of bottles of claret add cheer and refreshment. If coffee is carried, it is better sweetened and "creamed" before starting, then poured in bottles with patent stoppers. Fruits. Anything from watermelon down to strawberries unhulled with a little paper of powdered sugar to assist in their service goes well at a picnic. A few lem- ons should always be carried — a squeeze of lemon juice added to each cup of drinking water mak- ing it not only more refreshing but serving as a germicide in case there is anything out of the way with the water supply. In packing bananas carry separately from the rest of the luncheon, as their heavy odor permeates everything laid near them. Washington Pie. Here is a simple rule for an old fashioned cream cake, called in New England a Washington pie : — Beat two eggs with a scant cup sugar; then add a cup and one-half flour, sifted several times over with a teaspoonful cream of tartar, a half teaspoonful soda and a pinch of salt. Stir in gradually three table- spoonfuls cold water and a little lemon juice and bake in two layers. When cold spread with a custard filling made in this way: — Mix a large tablespoonful cornstarch with two tablespoonfuls sugar, a pinch of salt and a beaten egg. Stir gradually into a pint of milk heated to the boiling point in a double boiler. When it thickens nicely add the grated rind of a lemon. Do not add the juice. Spread this on top of one of the cakes, cover with the other; dust the top of the cake with powdered sugar and a little lemon juice. A chocolate, apple or orange filling may be used instead of the cream. To make the orange filling whip the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, beat in a teacup powdered sugar and the grated yellow rind and juice of two oranges. Spread be- tween and on top of the layers and set in the warming closet or a coolish oven for a few moments. A lemon filling is also good when made in this way: — Cook in a double boiler, until thickened, one cup sugar, one tablespoonful butter, the grated rind and juice of one lemon and a beaten egg. Cream Cheese Sandwiches. Cream cheese in any one of a half hundred combinations goes equally well with either white, brown or whole wheat bread. A very dainty combination is a blend of cream cheese and currant jelly, using two or three tablespoonfuls jelly to a small cheese, then cov- ering with a circle of chopped pis- tache nuts. Use a long French loaf for- this purpose, but if you prefer it without crust use a cooky cutter to stamp the slices in circles. Pineapple goes well with cream cheese. Chop the pineapple fine and drain off the juice. Cut thin slices of white or whole wheat bread, spread thinly with cheese, sprinkle with the minced pineapple, 232 MENUS sweetened or not, as preferred, and press together. Other combinations are cream cheese mixed with an equal quan- tity fine minced celery and mois- tened with whipped cream, cream cheese and chopped green olives or the ripe black ones, cream cheese and sliced tomatoes, cream cheese and crispy lettuce leaves, cheese and chopped nuts with or without mayonnaise, cheese and chopped dates or figs, cheese and chopped spinach seasoned with lemon juice and mayonnaise, cheese and the yolks of cold hard boiled eggs, put through a sieve, cheese and sliced cucumber, cheese and preserved ginger chopped fine, or cheese mixed with minced pars- ley or cress and seasoned lightly with paprika. Nut Sandwiches. There is plenty of choice here. Beside the peanut butter, which is one of the handiest things to keep on hand where a quick picnic lunch is often in demand, there may be almonds chopped fine or run through the coflfee mill or meat chopper, salted and moistened with a little mayonnaise or sherry, chopped pecans mixed with mayon- naise or Boston brown bread but- tered and spread with a filling of chopped walnuts or butternuts. Extra Hearty Sandwiches. The first, always in demand for tramp trips or where there is to be much muscular activity, is made of rye bread, ham and Bermuda onions. Butter the bread, lay a thin slice of pinky ham spread with just a suspicion of French mustard on one slice, spread with a layer of Bermuda onions cut in thin rings and lightly salted, then top with a second slice of buttered bread. Another hearty sandwich is made of brown bread with a filling of mushrooms cooked in cream, cubes of crisped bacon added and all seasoned with salt and pepper. Ham sandwiches made in this way "stay by" one. Rub a half cup butter to a cream, add one tea- spoonful made mustard, one table- spoonful melted butter or olive oil, the yolk of an egg beaten well, a pinch of salt and red or black pepper to season. Mix thorough- ly, then stir in as much chopped ham as will make a good consis- tency for spreading and place be- tween slices of whole wheat bread. APPETIZING PICNIC LUNCH FOR CANOEING PARTY. In arranging your provisions don't attempt to carry many sweets for a canoeing party, such as layer cake, cream puffs and other fragile, sticky dishes. The exercise in the fresh air begets mighty appetites, and young men especially prefer substantials. A veal loaf is popu- lar. It should be baked the day before or early in the morning of the picnic day, to give it ample time to cool. Veal Loaf. Mince fine three pounds lean, raw veal and a quarter of a pound of fat pork. Add a half onion chopped fine or grated, a table- spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful pep- per and a teaspoonful mixed sea- soning herbs. Mix well, add two- thirds of a cup cracker crumbs, a MENUS 230 half cup of veal gravy, the yolk of one egg and the whites of two beaten together. Form into a loaf, pressing firmly together. Brush over with the yolk of an egg, dust with finely rolled cracker crumbs and set on a greased rack in the dripping pan. When it begins to brown turn a cup of hot water in the pan and baste frequently until done. It will take about an hour and a half in a moderate oven. Ham and Pickle Sandwiches. Ham and pickle sandwiches are appetizing. Chop cold boiled ham quite fine, mix with a little melted butter and made mustard, add some finely chopped cucumber pickles and spread between thin slices of bread and butter. Where the preparation of the lunch is to be divided among four one might provide the sandwiches (reckoning at least four apiece where they are small), and one of the relishes such as olives, pickles, salted nuts or radishes. The second might bring the salad or special cold meat dish and the devilled eggs. The third could be responsible for the fruit, the bev- erages and another relish, and the fourth the dessert — cake, turn- overs, or whatever it may be, and more fruit. Let each young woman be responsible for the , dishes required for her escort and herself. If cans are to be opened there must be an understanding as to who shall carry the can opener, also the salt and pepper, matches and a towel for wiping the dishes. The best way is to hold a consul- tation beforehand and have all these little details adjusted in ad- vance. REFRESHING SUMMER BBV- ERAGES OF MINT. The Pungent Mint. In fields and waste places, in old fashioned gardens and along the banks of winding streams, the mint family grows clean, pungent and odorous, every member, from least to greatest, bearing a little medi- cine chest tucked away in its green bosom. During hot weather espe- cially the therapeutic value of the mint can scarcely be overesti- mated. In drying any of the mint family for winter use, pick before blos- soming time, hang in the garret heads down or on sheets of paper spread on the floor of an unused room. When quite dry put into paper bags again with heads down, fasten tightly and suspend from a beam for future reference. Here are some of the ways in which fresh mint may be used. Mint Apple Jelly. Make an extract of mint by steeping a cupful of the leaves for an hour in a cupful of hot water. Press through a cheesecloth bag, add a teaspoonful of this extract to one cupful apple juice obtained by cooking green, unripe apples with a little water; then, straining, al!ow a pound of sugar to a pint of juice; cook twenty minutes, then pour into moulds or glasses. This is a clear, delicate green jelly, ex- ceedingly pretty to look at and most appetizing with a roast. 234 MENUS Mint Julep for the Punch Bowl. In making a quantity for the punch bowl, make a syrup of a pound of sugar and a quart of water. Break up a dozen sprigs of mint, steep in a cupful and a half boiling water in a covered bowl for fifteen minutes, strain and add to the syrup. Add the juice of eight oranges, eight lemons, a cup of strawberry juice and a pint of claret. Add ice water to dilute properly and pour in the punch over a block of ice. Fresh berries and mint leaves should float on top of the bowl and in the individual glasses. A Temperanee Miiit Cordial. This is made without spirits. Crush a bunch of mint, rubbing each leaf with a wooden muller or masher, then soak for half an hour in the strained juice of two lemons with the carefully grated yellow rind of one. Cook together a pint of water and a pound of granulated sugar until the syrup spins a thread. Take from the fire and stir into it the lemon and the mint, the juice of an orange and an equal quantity of pineapple juice. Strain and put on the ice until cold, then serve in wine glasses with a sprig of mint and a berry on top of the glass. Mint Sherbet. Bruise a heaping cupful of mint leaves slightly, pour over them a pint of boiling water, and steep, covered, for twenty minutes. Add a cupful of sugar and the grated yellow rind and the juice of a lemon, cover again and leave until cold. Strain and pour into the freezer can, pack with equal quan- tities salt and ice and freeze to a mushlike consistency. Scrape oflf the sides and dasher, and cover until ready to serve. For state oc- casions this same sherbet may be enriched by adding the juice of three oranges, the same amount pineapple juice and, when half frozen, the whites of two eggs beaten stiiT. A wineglass of any preferred wine may also be added. Mint Used Medicinally. Medicinally there are few herbs that equal the pleasant mint. A cupful of mint tea taken morning and evening aids digestion and was claimed by our grandmothers to be an infallible rule for giving a fresh and healthy appearance. Prepared in a tea, with half water and half wine, a cupful taken daily will remove bad breath, if its cause is a disordered stomach; while essence of mint mixed with cream and sugar or creme de menthe, the French preparation of peppermint, with plenty of cracked ice, affords relief from the pain or lassitude caused by excessive heat or fatigue. In colic and summer complaints also this preparation of mint proves a soothing and in- vigorating remedy. In making any ^ of the mint teas never boil. Pour boiling water over the leaves, then push where the tea will infuse. Mint in Soups, Salads and Veg- etables. Cucumber salad or an apple and celery salad are greatly improved by a sprinkle of fine chopped mint leaves. Just a suspicion of mint with cooked peas, or a cream of pea or potato soup, is a great ad- dition; also to a lamb or veal salad. MENUS 235 Mint Sauce for Game or Spring Lamb. Mint sauce is the orthodox ac- companiment for roast lamb and many kinds of game. For it fresh young mint leaves should be used. Pick out two tablespoonfuls of the best leaves, and chop very fine on a plate; mix with two and a half tablespoonfuls sugar, four table- spoonfuls vinegar and a half tea- spoonful salt. Let this stand sev- eral hours before serving. Mint Jelly. This is also an approved accom- paniment for lamb or mutton. To make it pour a pint of boiling water over a bunch of fresh bruised mint leaves and simmer gently ten or fifteen minutes; strain, and to a pint of the hot liquid allow one package of cur- rant, lemon or any of the quick process acid jellies or half a pack- age of gelatine soaked half an hour in cold water to dissolve; add sugar to sweeten and lemon juice to make acid as desired. Stir until thoroughly dissolved, then set away to cool. As it begins to stiffen stir in two tablespoonfuls capers, pour into one good sized mould or tiny individual ones and set away to harden. When cold and firm turn out and garnish with tiny sprigs of fresh mint. Mint Vinegar. Put crushed mint leaves in a wide mouthed bottle, then fill up with good cider vinegar. In three weeks pour off clear into another bottle. This is fine for flavoring purposes when fresh mint cannot be had and almost a sure cure for headache when bound upon the forehead. Currant-Mint Sauce for Game. Separate a glass of currant jelly into pieces, but do not break; add two tablespoonfuls fine chopped mint leaves and the thin shavings from the yellow rind of a half orange. Candied Mint Leaves. Select the desired quantity of perfect leaves, spread on an in- verted sieve and stand in the air until slightly dry, but not crisp; make a syrup from a cup each of sugar and water and cook until it spins a thread; lift the leaves with a fine wire and dip into the hot syrup one by one; then set back on the sieve, which should have been slightly oiled, dry in the warming oven. These are delicious served as after dinner bonbons. VEGETABLES THAT ARE BETTER THAN MEDICINE. If more 'housewives appreciated the medicinal qualities of vege- tables and regulated the diet of their families in accordance, there would be less need for physician's treatment and the taking of drugs. By the simplest preparation of cer- tain vegetables nerves may be soothed, bilious attacks warded off, the blood purified, colds averted and the general system toned. Of course, to cure specific cases, of say, biliousness, a woman must understand which vegetable will have the desired effect, and she must also know what other foods should be taken with it to hasten 286 MENUS if possible the desired results. In- cidentally, a knowledge of any food that would have the opposite effect must be known, so that the latter will not be served to the pa- tient being treated by "vegetables" at home. For biliousness nothing is better than raw ripe tomatoes. They should be eaten at every ireal dur- ing the day, even for breakfast, and the woman who will cease tak- ing calomel and other drugs for that dizzy feeling and sickness in the stomach will find that plenty of tomatoes taken with salt and pepper will not only keep off these uncomfortable spells, but may eliminate them. Onions a Nerve Tonic. That common garden vegetable, the onion, which many women re- fuse to eat because of its strong odor, is an excellent tonic for the nerves, and many persons who now suffer from nervous dyspepsia and other troubles could help them- selves immeasurably by eating one or two of these every day. Taken raw, they are, of course, beneficial, but the best results from them come after they have been well boiled. A diet of onions — that is, two or three a day for several weeks — ^will make a remarkable difference in the nervous system that will be noticeable by the per- son treated in the discharge of everyday duties. Taken daily with onions, though not in such quantities, peas, beets and carrots help nervous people by producing rich, pure blood to nourish the impoverished nerve centres. Because of their direct effect on the blood they are ex- cellent for thin women. Those who are inclined to be irritable and get excited about trifles will doubt- less be benefited by taking these three vegetables with their daily meals. Known as the "cleanser of the stomach," spinach is particularly valuable for anaemic persons, be- cause it contains so much iron, and women who are taking a min- eral or prepared drug because of the iron in it would do well to eat this vegetable every day or twice daily. By its action on the blood and peculiar medicinal qualities, spinach is valuable in treating rheumatism, and incidentally for gout, and those afflicted with either would do well to include it when cooked as a part of the daily diet. Celery taken at the same time by gouty individuals or those suffer- ing with rheumatism should hasten the good results to the system. Cabbages Are Blood Purifiers. Though cabbage, cauliflower and brussels sprouts have fewer me- dicinal ingredients than these other vegetables, they are excellent as blood purifiers, and for that rea- son may be taken daily with ad- vantage to the system by those who are on tomato, onion or spinach diets. A woman prone to sleeplessness, whether from nervousness or other physical causes, yvould do well to eat plenty of lettuce, especially at dinner time, for the milk contained in the crisp green leaves is full of a sedative that ■ calms the nerves and creates a drowsiness that is often hard to resist until time to retire. Fruits, too, are valuable in the MENUS 237 daily diet, for apples make a wholesome brain food, while figs, especially the green ones, act di- rectly on the nerves of the stom- ach and are good for indigestion and also as a laxative. Pome- granate is an excellent tonic and astringent, and a drink made from the juice of a lemon mixed with hot water is often the means of breaking up a hard cold. If herbs are properly prepared, boiled into liquids and taken with these medicinal vegetables at meal time, early in the morning or just before going to bed, they act on the system of the patient the same as real drugs, except, being vege- tables, they are much more effec- tive and often bring more lasting results, even permanent cures. Dandelion for Torpid Liver. As a medicine for a torpid or dis- eased liver nothing is better than a liquid made from the roots of the dandelion by careful boiling, while a syrup taken in the same way from the stalks and leaves of common mullen is still thought by many persons to be a remedy for consumption, and it is doubtless, in the early stages, a very good kind of treatment of pulmonary troubles. Instead of using quinine, sloe bark dried and powdered will have the same effect in curing a cold and as a tonic. For external applica- tions an excellent ointment for boils may be made from oak leaves, dried and powdered and mixed with clarified lard, while to stop the bleeding of wounds pink blossomed marshmallow is very good. By carefully preparing elder- berry flowers with the fat of mut- ton and olive oil, an ointment is made that is unequalled in treating a rough skin. COLD FRUIT SOUPS FOR SUMMER MENUS. Red Raspberry Soup. From a quart of fine ripe berries lay aside a cupful. Put the remain- der in a saucepan with a cupful of cold water and simmer until soft. Strain through a coarse sieve and measure the juice; add enough water to make two cupfuls. Re- heat, and when boiling thicken slightly with a tablespoonful of arrowroot or cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water; add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the grated yellow rind of a lemon and simmer until clear. Take from the fire, add the juice of two oranges or the same amount of pineapple juice, strain again and chill. Serve in punch glasses with cracked ice in the bottom and a few berries floating on top. More sugar may be added, but the fruit soups should not be too sweet. Serve with wafers or sponge cake. Peach Puree. Press canned or fresh peaches through a sieve, measure, and to each pint allow a pint of water, the juice of a lemon and a half tea- spoonful of bitter almond. Bring to the boiling point, and thicken with a teaspoonful of arrowroot moistened in a half cupful of cold water. Stir until smooth and thickened, then set aside to cool. When ready to serve pour into 238 MENUS tumblers and fill with cracked ice, or put in small bowls set in saucers of ice and send to the table. Apple Soup. Strain through a sieve enough stewed apples to make a cupful. Mix a teaspoonful of cornstarch with enough cold water to stir smooth, and pour into three cups boiling water. Stir until thick and clear, add the sauce, season with salt and cinnamon or nutmeg, sweeten if desired, and serve cold with croutons or cheese fingers. Lemon. Soup. Make a strong, hot lemonade; thicken slightly with cornstarch or arrowroot and serve very cold with a bit of preserved ginger or a cherry in each glass. Orange soup is made in the same way. Also pineapple, grape, cherry, currant and currant and red raspberry. Blackberry Soup. Stew the berries in plenty of water, and when tender strain through a puree sieve. Thicken slightly with flour, sweeten to taste and flavor with nutmeg. Serve with zwiebach. Swedish Soup. Take equal quanties prunes and raisins and cook very slowly in plenty of water until tender. Strain and sweeten. Cook sago until clear; mix with the hot fruit and juice and chill before serving. Bread Soup. This is a favorite German sweet soup that is eaten hot in winter and cold in summer. To make it take stale crusts of rye bread and put to cook with plenty of wate' to cover them. When soft, strain and put the liquid back over the fire with a little butter, a handful of dried currants, sugar to taste, a piece of stick cinnamon and a sprinkle of salt. A little vinegar or lemon juice is often added. The soup should be but slightly thick- ened, not so much as porridge. Judgment is to be exercised in the amount of bread and water used. The stick cinnamon may be re- moved after cooking a few mo- ments, rinsed off and saved to use again. Einlauf. This is another German soup not generally known here. Make a pancake batter of two eggs, two heaping tablespoonfuls of .flour, and milk or water to make the right consistency. Have ready three pints boiling water; then let the batter run into it, stirring all the time. If desired the yolk of one egg may be reserved to add to the soup last, with a little sugar and butter. Then chill. Almond Soup. Scald, peel and pound about a quarter of a pound of sweet al- monds. Boil in fresh milk, press through a sieve, sweeten to taste, cook again until the soup is thick- ened sufficiently, strain, add the juice of an orange, chill and serve. APPETIZING SUMMER SUB- STITUTES FOR MEAT. In homes without number, since the packing house investigations MENUS 239 have been so thoroughly exploited, the dietary has been changed so as to eliminate meat in whole or part. It goes without saying that there must be intelligent discrimination in making out a dietary where flesh is excluded. Not all vegetables and fruits, even though appetizing, have the food or fuel value to sup- ply the waste of the body and give necessary heat and energy to the system. Cereals properly prepared and served, though more slowly digested than meat, are really better adapted to sustain hard man- ual labor for a period of time. It is a well known fact that men nourished extensively on cereals are capable of the hardest and most enduring manual labor. Cheese is rich in nutritive ele- ments. There has been a popular belief that it is not easily digested. That is true of*poor or new cheese, but those that are old and rich are not only easily digested, but pro- mote the digestion of other foods. It must be borne in mind, how- ever, that it is a highly concen- trated food and not to be taken in large quantities at a time. The pulse family — ^peas, beans and lentils — have all the chemical elements that the human system needs. Eggs that are rich in pro- teids may take the place of meat very satisfactorily for a time, and ways of cooking them are legion. Most excellent fish are now in the market, cod, halibut, haddock, restigouche salmon and Kennebec, Spanish and common mackerel, blue and weak fish, as well as num- berless others from lake, river and ocean. Mushrooms are also in or- der, and while the fresh fruits seem the more refreshing and in- viting, the nutritious dates, figs and prunes may furnish their quota of appetizing nutriment. Nuts are very nutritious and if eaten at proper times furnish a good substitute for meat. At this season, however, they are not of a good quality and can only be served salted or in cooked dishes. Olive oil, cream and butter are all nourishing and should be indulged in freely. Macaroni, spaghetti and the various noodles are hearty as well as digestible. The noodles may be purchased in any one of a dozen diilerent forms, for use in soups. They are quite inexpensive — about sixteen cents a pound — and a pound would make a dinner dish for a regiment. German noodles are even less expensive than the Italian and far cleaner. Here are several suggestive dishes, substitutes for meat, that may be varied, according to cir- cumstances: — Macaroni Milanese. The preliminary cooking of mac- aroni is always the same, no mat- ter how it is to be dressed after- ward. It should be put into a good quantity of rapidly boiling, lightly salted water, cooked about twenty minutes, then thrown into cold water to blanch. Then it is ready to cook. Turn the macaroni back into the kettle in which it was cooked, pour a cup of milk over it and reheat. Butter a pud- ding dish and put into it in alter- nate layers the macaroni and grated cheese, seasoning with a little more salt and a few grains of cayenne. Put plenty of butter on top, cover with fresh milk, the richer the better, and cook, cov- 240 MENUS ered, for fifteen or twenty minutes. Uncover and brown. Spaghetti with Cheese. Take a handful of the long stocks of spaghetti and put one end of the bunch in a kettle of boiling water lightly salted. As the sticks soften, bend the mass around in the kettle and so put it all in without breaking the spa- ghetti. Cook fifteen or twenty minutes until tender, then drain and blanch. Return to the kettle, add a little milk and let it cook slowly until the milk is absorbed. Just before serving add quarter of a cup of butter, and when melted turn out on a shallow dish and sprinkle with grated sap sago cheese. A change in service is made by using a tomato sauce with spa- ghetti. Tomato Sauce for Spaghetti Boil and strain one can toma- toes. Chop one small onion fine and brown in pan with two slices of fat salt pork or two tablespoon- fuls olive oil or butter. Five minutes before the browning is ac- complished throw in a handful of dried mushrooms that have been scalded, strained and chopped. These add greatly to the flavor. Add to the tomatoes four whole cloves, a lump of sugar, salt and paprika or cayenne to flavor, mix together, strain, then thicken lightly with browned flour and cook two minutes. Pour over the spaghetti and add grated Parmesan cheese. Devilled MacaronL Cook enough macaroni to make two cupfuls after it is cooked, blanch and chopped. Make a good cream sauce, using two tablespoon- fuls each butter and flour, one cup- ful warm milk and salt and pepper to season. Add to the sauce three hard boiled eggs minced, a table- spoonful chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls onion juice, nut- meg, salt and paprika to season. Mix the sauce with the macaroni and turn into a good sized ramekin or individual ones, sprinkle the tops with buttered crumbs and brown. Just before sending to the table make a little depression in the top of each and pour in a tea- spoonful of chili sauce. Baked Hominy. Put a quart of milk over the fire and when just at the boiling point stir in one cup hominy grits. Stir a few moments, then set in a double boiler or water basin and cook gently three-quarters of an hour. Turn into the bowl and cool slightly. Beat two eggs until light and whip into the cooled hominy together with a teaspoonful salt. Put into a greased pan and bake half an hour in a quick oven. Codfish and Hominy. For one-half pound of salt nsh, flaked, allow one pound white hominy cooked, one teaspoonful salt, half a teaspoonful pepper, one quart milk, with a slice of onion boiled in the milk, two tablespoon- fuls drippings or butter and two tablespoonfuls flour. Make the cream sauce first with the flour MENUS 241 and butter cooked together, then add the milk, seasonings and lastly fish and hominy. This makes enough for a large family. Salmon Cooked in Court Bouillon. Lay a two pound slice fresh, firm salmon in the grate of a fish kettle, pour over enough cold water to cover, add two table- spoonfuls wine vinegar, three sprigs parsley, a sliced onion, three whole cloves, six whole peppers and two tablespoonfuls salt. Let the fish come quickly to the boil- ing point, then push back where it will simmer gently until the flesh flakes. Serve with a garnish of mushrooms and a rich sauce. HISTORICAL SOUTHERN DISHES BY OLD-TIME HOSTESSES. These recipes, used more than a hundred years ago in the kit- chens of the North and South, have all been contributed by de- scendants and are now published for the first time, each with the name of the originator and the contributor. They are accompa- nied in many cases by notes of in- teresting personal or historical epi- sodes connected with them. This composite collection, to which nearly two hundred of the best known hostesses of the United States have contributed their choicest recipes for preparing every sort of table delicacy, from shell fish, soups, breads, entrees and meats, to game, salads, vege- tables, beverages and desserts, makes a most valuable addition to the culinary literature of America. Sally Lunn. By Mrs. Dabney H. Maury, Richmond, Va. Take one-quarter pound butter, one pound flour, two eggs, one- half gill of yeast, or one-half yeast cake dissolved in a little warm wa- ter, milk enough to make a soft dough, one-half teaspoonful salt. Cut up the butter and melt in the warm milk. When the milk is lukewarm, stir it into the flour, with the eggs beaten very light, then add the yeast. Butter the mould in which it is to be baked carefully, pour in the mixture, and in winter set near the fire to rise. When perfectly light and risen to top of Turk's head, bake in mod- erate oven. Waffles. By Miss Logan, Kentucky. One pint sour cream, two pints flour, three eggs, one teaspoonful soda, three tablespoonfuls melted lard, and a little salt. Beat the eggs separately, and put the flour and the sour cream in with the yellows. Make the batter very thin with sweet milk. Add lard, then soda dissolved in a little milk, and lastly the whites of the eggs. Bake quickly in very hot irons. ^ Clermont Muflins. By Mrs. Robert K. Livingston, New York, 1775. Two eggs, two tablespoonfuls butter, one large teacup cream, sweet or sour, one saltspoonful salt, flour enough for a very soft dough. Mix well, shape into small balls the size of an English wal- 242 MENUS nut, roll out into thin cakes, each one about the size of a dessert plate, not much thicker than paper. Bake in a pan in front of a hot fire. Beaten Biscuit. This recipe has been used for several generations in a Montgom- ery (Ala.) family. The biscuits were formerly beaten on a heavy block cut from a large tree, but of late a biscuit machine has been used and is very satisfactory. One quart ilour, one cup milk, a pinch of soda size of a small pea, one kitchen spoon lard. Sift soda and salt in flour thoroughly; rub lard in flour until it is like corn- meal. Then add milk and mix well. Roll through a biscuit machine for one-half hour, or beat one hundred strokes on a block with a heavy pestle. Cut the size of a gentle- man's watch and bake in a mod- erate oven. Black Bean Soup. By Grandmother Hannah Burrows. One quart beans boiled until tender. Add one quart tomatoes, boil two hours and strain. Add one tablespoonful corn starch, pep- per, salt, one tablespoonful butter and a few cloves. Just before serving add brandy and sherry to taste and a few slices of lemon. Okra Gumbo. An Old Creole Recipe. Fry slowly together one sliced onion and a tablespoonful of drip- pings or a slice of salt pork. Add a pound of lean beef cut in small pieces and stew quickly. Dredge with a heaping tablespoonful of flour and cook until brown. Add three pints boiling water, one pint peeled and sliced tomatoes, and one pint of sliced okra. Coyer and simmer for an hour and a half, adding salt and pepper to taste. Chicken may be used instead of beef, or crabs or shrimps. In the latter case these should be previ- ously boiled and the meat picked out and added lasti A little chopped ham is always an improve- ment. Serve with boiled rice. The gumbo should be very thick when served. Cold Crab Ravigote. Given by the Chef of the Famous Old Bellevue, Philadelphia. One pint best crab meat, two large fresh ripe tomatoes, one large green pepper, one red pep- per, same kind; chop the tomato and peppers fine; be sure to take out all the seeds in peppers; add a tablespoonful of chopped pars- ley; mix all together with mayon- naise enough to have them quite wet and moist, season to taste with salt and a dash of paprika; fill each shell heaping full of the mix- ture and garnish the top with two anchovies, a small piece of cut pickle and lemons; the anchovies can be dispensed with if preferred; serve in six shells. Quenelles with Spinach. An English recipe used by an old housekeeper of Mrs. Joseph Coleman Bright when for- merly in the employ of Lord Raglan, of Rag- lan Castle. Make a forcemeat of two pounds veal, season with mace, salt and MENUS 243 pepper; add one-quarter pint of cream, mix well and poach in clear soup. Drop a soup spoonful at a time in the boiling soup, take out and keep hot. Have ready- some well chopped and seasoned spinach, pile in the centre of the dish, and place the quenelles around. This makes a very nice and dainty entree. Pudding. Contributed by a great-great- great-granddaughter of Thomas Jefferson, Fredericksburg, Va. One pint bread crumbs, one quart cream, one teacup white sugar, yolks four eggs, grated rind of a lemon; beat yolks, sugar and lemon together, and stir in the crumbs. Bake a light brown. When it is done spread over the top currant jelly or any small pre- serve. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, spread on top and serve either hot or cold. Cherry Roll. By Mrs. Heloise Minor, Norfolk, Va, Six medium sized Irish potatoes, one large spoonful butter, one- half teaspoonful salt, flour enough to make a paste. Mash potatoes smooth, add butter and salt, then the flour. Roll it out in a strip longer than wide, lay it over the fruit. Roll it up and tie in a floured bag. It must boil steadily one hour, and water must be boil- ing when put in. Serve with sauce. Dolly Madison's Whim, This is Dolly Madison's own fav- orite cake and was taken from the original book. One pound flour, one pound sugar, one pound butter, one pound raisins stoned and chopped, six eggs, a wine glass brandy, one nutmeg, a tablespoonful mace, one dessertspoonful soda dissolved in a wine glass of hot water. Beat the butter to a cream, rub the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, and the butter, whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add alternately with the flour, then the brandy and the nutmeg, and lastly the soda. Stir the whole mixture lightly and quickly and bake in a deep pan with the same heat re- quired for pound cake. MEDICINAL CORDIAL RECIPES, In all the large and varied list of fruit preparations put up best at home, shrubs and cordials stand easily first, as many of them can- not be purchased in the stores. Blackberry cordial, one of the best of all remedies for troubles inci- dent to hot weather, cannot be bought at its best for less than sixty to seventy-five cents a bot- tle, while it can be made at home, using the best French brandy and purest spices, for less than half that amount. Raspberry shrub, one of the most refreshing and cooling of summer drinks, costs nothing but the price of the ber- ries, the sugar and vinegar. Here are a few thoroughly well tested recipes, that, once tried, will be used every season thereafter: — 244 MENUS Blackberry Cordial. Wash the berries in running water from the faucet, drain and put in a preserving kettle or stone jar set inside the wash boiler or a large pan of water. Simmer, mashing and stirring often, until soft and mushy. A wooden spoon or potato masher is best for this purpose. When soft turn into a cheesecloth bag that has been wrung out of hot water and sus- pend from a nail or a broomstick laid across the tops of two chairs and let hang until the juice has drained off. Measure the juice and allow to each quart one pound loaf or granulated sugar, a level table- spoonful each cinnamon and nut- meg, a half tablespoonful each cloves and allspice. Tie the pow- dered spice in a thin muslin bag. Boil all together for fifteen min- utes, skimming thoroughly at the end of that time. When cold add one-half pint best French brandy. Seal in small corked bottles. This improves with age and is one of the most famous household remedies in the South. Blackberry Wine. This resembles the cordial, and is made in much the same way, but without the addition of spirits. Pour four quarts of boiling water over eight quarts of well ripened blackberries and let stand over night in a cool place. Then press out the juice, and to every four quarts of juice allow three pounds of sugar, with a heaping table- spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a level tablespoonful of powdered cloves and a half tablespoonful each of nutmeg and allspice. Boil the mixture five minutes and set to ferment in a stone jar. When it has finished fermenting, rack oflE without disturbing the lees, bottle and cork closely. This, too, is used for medicinal purposes, but is somewhat stronger than the cordial. Elderberry Wine. This; too, is excellent in case of summer complaint, and the berries in most cases can be had for the gathering. Add to three gallons crushed berries three and a half gallons of water, one-half cupful of raisins, two ounces of whole all- spice, one dozen whole cloves, one ounce of ginger root and four inches of stick cinnamon. Boil all together half an hour, then strain. To every gallon of the liquid al- low three and a half pounds of sugar and boil until clear, skim- ming thoroughly. Put into a cask, and when near- ly cold drop in a piece of toast spread with one yeast cake soft- ened in a little tepid water. When fermentation has ceased close the cask tightly. It will be ready for use in three months, and is one of the best of tonics. For summer complaint give hourly in dessert- spoonful doses. Red Raspberry Shrub. ' Fill a quart jar with red rasp- berries, then pour in as much pure vinegar (white wine or cider) as it will hold. Let this stand over night. In the morning mash the berries and squeeze through a coarse bag. To every pint of the juice allow one pound of sugar. Boil twenty minutes, skim the bot- tle. This makes a thick, rich MENUS 245 syrup, which must be diluted con- siderably before drinking. Raspberry Vinegar. Put two quarts raspberries in a stone jar and cover with one quart good cider vinegar. Cover closely and stand aside for two days. At the end of that time mash the ber- ries and drain off the liquid. Pour this over a third quart of fresh berries and set away for another two days. Strain and allow to each pint of juice one pound sugar. Cook gently for five or ten min- utes. Skim, strain and bottle. Vinegar prepared in this way will keep indefinitely, and a teaspoon- ful added to a glass of water makes a most refreshing and healthful drink. Raspberry Syrup for Flavoring. Put as many berries as desired in the preserving kettle, crush slightly, heat slowly and cook very gently for half an hour. Crush with a wooden spoon and strain through a cheesecloth bag. Put the juice into a clean preserv- ing kettle after measuring. Let it come to a boil, then skim. Add to the berry juice half its quantity of sugar. Stir until dissolved, then pour into hot sterilized bottles. Set uncovered in pans of hot water on the stove or in the oven, cook ten minutes longer, fill to over- flowing with the boiling juice and seal. How Lemon and Vanilla Flavors Are Made at Home. There is no reason why the housewife who wishes to keep down her expenses, and at the same time make sure her family is getting pUre food, should not put up her own extracts and flav- orings. It is really very little trouble, and the expense is almost nil in comparison to the price one is obliged to pay for the high grade extracts. Take the lemon, for instance. Before cutting the lemon to extract the juice, scrub well, rinse and wipe with a soft cloth. Then grate off all the deli- cate yellow skin, taking care that none of the white part of the rind goes in, as this will give a bitter taste. Pack a small bottle full of these yellow shavings, cover with pure grain alcohol and set away . for three weeks. At the end of that time the contents of the bot- tle should be strained and the ex- tract is ready for use. An even teaspoonful of this preparation will flavor a quart of custard or other similar dish. Lemon Zest. This is a g^eat favorite with English cooks. Rub thoroughly washed lemons with lumps of sugar until they have absorbed the oil form the rind. Then rub the lumps to a powder and store in a glass jar. These contain simply the oil of the lemon and are considered particularly delicate. Lemon Sugar. Place the grated yellow peel from lemons in a wide mouthed bottle and cover thickly with granulated sugar. Keep the bottle tightly corked., The sug^r becomes satu- rated with the oil from the peel and imparts a delicious flavor. Still another way is to rub lumps of 246 MENUS sugar over the lemon rind until the oil cells are broken and the oil absorbed by the sugar. Place the lumps of sugar in an air tight jar and when ready to use dissolve some of the sugar in whatever it is desired to flavor. Orange Sugar. Wash the oranges, then with a sharp, thin bladed knife pare off the thin yellow rind without a par- ticle of the bitter white underneath. Spread on plates and dry in a sun- ny window or in a cooling oven ■with door ajar. When perfectly dry, add to the rind of a half dozen good sized oranges a half pound granulated sugar. Rub to a pow- der in a mortar, sift through a fine sieve, returning the coarse particles to the mortar to be reground and sifted. A tablespoonful of this sugar will flavor a quart of cream or other sweet. Sugar made from Tangerine oranges is specially de- lightful. Orange zest and orange extract are made in the same way as those from lemon. Strawberry Extract. Fill a quart jar with sweet ripe berries, cover with white brandy, let stand two weeks, then strain through cheesecloth, pressing out all the liquid; pour in bottles, cork tightly and keep in a cool, dry place. Use for flavoring. into small shreds and put in a bottle with a pint of brandy; cork tightly, shake occasionally, and it will be ready to use," in three months. "f' Vanilla Extract. Cut and chop fine two or three pods and pound fine in a mortar; rub or pound into them a little powdered sugar; put in a pint bot- tle, add a tablespoonful water and let stand over night. The next day pour on a cup spirits of wine, cork well and let stand for a month, shaking every day. Vanilla Flavoring. Split four beans and clip in bits with scissors; put seeds, husks and all into a bottle and pour over it one pint brandy or whiskey; cork tightly, shake frequently for the first four or five weeks. It is then ready for use and will keep for years. Vanilla Pods. Many professional cooks prefer to use the pods themselves in flav- oring, declaring that the flavor im- parted is more delicate. When making a cream or pudding, the pod is stirred in the substance to be flavored. It is then removed, washed in two waters and reserved for future use. If care is taken a pod will last for a long time. Vanilla Essence. The best vanilla comes from Mexico, though a very good quality may be obtained from Honduras, Guinea, Brazil or Ceylon. To make the essence cut three pods Ginger Extract. Cover two ounces ginger root with one-half pint of pure grain al- cohol. Let stand till the spirit is impregnated thoroughly with the ginger, then strain and bottle. MENUS 247 Rose Flavoring. The easiest way to prepare this is to fill a bottle with fresh, fra- grant petals, crowding them down as compactly as possible. Pour on pure alcoboi .to submerge the leaves. Cork tightly and set in a cool place for several weeks, then strain and use as other flavorings. Kose Syrup. Cut fragrant roses in full bloom, picking in the early morning with the dew still on. Dry slightly, then pull out the petals and spread on trays to prevent mildew. Keep cutting the roses and drying in this way until there are enough for a jar or tumbler of preserves. Put in preserving kettle with just water to cover and cook until the leaves are tender. Add sugar, pint for pint, and cook until it forms a jelly like syrup. Pour into jelly glasses. When ready to use a teaspoonful gives a delicious flavor to a cake or pudding sauce. Picnic Lunch Cooked Around Camp Fire. For a day's outing try cooking the dinner over a camp fire. If you do not wish to carry many cooking utensils along there are plenty of things that can be grilled on the end of sharp pointed sticks. A wire broiler is not a heavy thing to carry and over a bed of glow- ing coals you can broil a steak or fish, toast bread or use it as a rest for the coffee pot. Frankfurters are nice spitted and grilled over a fire; also a kebab of lamb or ten- der beef in old Greek fashion. To do this cut the meat in two inch square pieces before leaving home, and cover with onion juice or minced onion to season. Let stand for an hour before packing for the picnic. When ready to grill, string the pieces of meat on a sharp pbinted stick of some green wood, lay across two notched sticks, set up by the bed of coals, then turn every few minutes until nicely browned and sending forth the most ravishing odors. Season with salt and pepper and serve on the little wooden grocer's plates. A Barbecue on a Small Scale. A barbecue on a small scale is a good camp dish. Lay the ribs of a sheep on a grill, brush over, us- ing a swab of clean cloth tied on the end of a stick, with a mixture of melted butter and vinegar, whipping a half cup softened but- ter with a quarter cup vinegar un- til frothy like salad dressing. Sea- son well with salt, pepper and mus- tard. As the meat broils on the gridiron or grill, keep saturating with the dressing. When done it will be deliciously seasoned. Apples and Potatoes. Apples may be spitted and toast- ed over the fire, or baked in the ashes or a covered pan until ten- der. Potatoes can be baked covered over in a bed of hot ashes. When done brush off, break the skin slightly and serve with salt. Roast Clams. Clear a place in the sand, stand the clams upright so that the juice will not run out as they open, and cover with brush, driftwood and 248 MENUS fire. As fast as they open, fish out with a stick, taking pains to secure a large clam first. Having eaten that, use the half of the shell for holding butter and pepper, into which the rest of the clams may be dipped before eating. Camp Coffee. Allow a tablespoonful ground coffee for each one in the camp and "one for the pot." Put into a cheesecloth bag with a draw string to tie about the mouth, lay in the pot and pour in cold water as many cups as you wish to serve. Cover closely, stopping up the spout with a twist of paper. As soon as it boils it is ready to serve. Use condensed cream and block sugar. Making the coffee by this cold water process obviates the neces- sity of a longer wait while the water gets its first boil. Baked Eggs. Make a small hole in the top to prevent bursting, then stand in rows against hot stones around the camp fire. Toasted Cheese. Cut the cheese in pieces two inches square, impale on a green stick and toast over the fire. Corn Bread Baked in the Ashes. Sift together before leaving home three pints Indian meal, one pint wheat ilour, one teaspoonful salt, a tablespoonful sugar and six tea- spoonfuls baking powder. When ready to bake, stir in enough cold water to make a stiff dough, form into balls about the size of hens' eggs, roll in dry flour and bake in hot ashes, which must completely cover the bread. Bake about twenty minutes. Index SOUPS PAGE Black Bean Soup 5 Beef Soup 8 Bouillon 10 Cream of Celery Soup 5 Clam Chowder 7 Clam Bouillon 7 Clam Broth (served en tasse) . . 7 Cream of Corn Puree 9 Consomme 8 Carrot Puree or Potage a la Crecy 11 Fruit Purees 11 Fish Soup 6 liObster Bisque or Puree 10 Potato Soup 8 Purees or Thick Soups 10. Savory Soup 7 K' Scotch Broth ' 6% Soup Stock ' 9 ', Split Pea Soup 6 Turkey Soup 8 Virginia Oyster Soup 6 POULTRY , PAGE Broiled Chicken 22 Chicken en Casserole 21 Chicken en Casserole No. 2 22 Chicken Croquettes 23 Chicken a la Baltimore 22 Chicken Curry 2S Dressings 26 Guinea Fowls 24 Orange Sauce 26 Roast Chicken 21 Roast Turkey 25 Roast Goose 24 Roast Duck 25 Smothered Chicken 22 Stewed Duck 24 FISH Baked Fish 13 Broiled Lobster 18 Broiled Smelts 16 Baked Haddock 15 Buttered Crabs 17 Codfish with Walnuts 16 Codfish Balls 12 Crab Croquettes 17 Clam Fritters 16 Clam Mousse 17 Cold Crab Ravlgote 20 Curried Lobster 19 Fried Smelts 14 Filet de Bass 13 Lobster Farcle 20 Lobster a la Newburg 18 Mussels In Shells 19 Oyster Shortcake l* Oyster Cocktails l» Pickled Oysters . ..... fO Philadelphia Lobster Salad.... 19 Planked Shad 1* Salt Mackerel • }j Stuffed Smelts 1* Shad Roe j* Shad Roe Croquettes }* Salmon Croquettes lo Steamed "Little Necks" 1| Scalloped Clams l' Terrapin .•• -ii ••,•••• ; il White Mountain Mackerel ,14 , EGGS Baked Eggs 28 Boiled Eggs 31 Curried Eggs 28 Devilled Eggs 28 Eggs in Cases 27 Eggs and Artichokes 30 Eggs a la Caracas 29 Fried. Eggs 27 French Omelet 29 Hard Boiled Eggs 27 Hollandaise Sauce 30 Lyonnaise Eggs 30 Plain Omelet 30 Scrambled Eggs with Green Peppers 29 Spanish Omelet 31 MEATS Braised Beef 32 Braised Veal 46 Bullock's Heart 32 Beef a la Mode 34 Broiled Steak 34 Beef Tongue 36 Breast of Lamb Stuffed 38 Breaded Lamb Chops 38 Breakfast Bacon 41 Broiled Ham 43 Baked Ham with Cider Sauce.. 43 Calves' Tails 48 Calf's Brains 44 Calf's Bars , 46 Calf's Head Entire. 46 Crown Roast of Lamb;. .... 40 Corned Beef, English Fashion.. 36 249 250 INDEX PAGE Fricandeau of Veal, Larded.... 47 Fricassee of Lamb 39 Grilled Breast of Mutton 39 Haricot of Oxtails 35 Haricot of Mutton 40 Hungarian Goulash 36 Irish Stew 37 Liverwurst 43 Mock Venison 38 Mock Duck 36 Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef. 32 Pigs' Feet 42 Pork Pies 42 Roast Beef 33 Roast Leg of Mutton 39 Roast Saddle of Mutton 40 Roast Pig 41 Roast Shoulder of Pork 44 Roast Shoulder of Veal 45 Sweetbreads 48 Salt Pork and Cream Gravy. ... 44 Scrapple 44 Sausage 42 Scotch Stew 38 Tripe a la Lyonnaise 37 Veal Pot Pie 45 Veal Croquettes 47 Veal Goulash 47 Veal a la Mareng:o 47 Yorkshire Pudding 34 VEGETABLES Asparagus 61 Boiled Turips 80 Baked Turnips 80 Broiled Tomatoes 79 Baked Tomatoes 78 Boiled Potatoes 71 Baked Potatoes on Half Shell.. 70 Baked Potatoes 68 Baked Green Peas 69 Bean Croquettes 63 Boston Baked Beans 62 Baked Mushrooms 61 Baked Beets 61 Broiled Mushooms on Toast. ... 61 Broiled Egg Plant 61 Boiled Okra 60 Beet and Rhubarb Jelly 59 Beet Greens 68 Brussels Sprouts 58 Boiled Lima Beans 67 Boiled Cabbage 57 Boiled Corn 65 Broiled Sweet Corn 64 Canapes of Asparagus 60 Cold Asparagus 62 Corn Fritters 53 Cucumber Salad 53 Celery Root Salad, Celery Rel- ish 54 Cauliflower Salad 65 Chou Farci, or Stuffed Cabbage. 49 Cabbage Salad 56 Celery, Apple and Nut Salad. ... 65 Celery with Cream Sauce 56 Cauliflower au Gratin 67 PAGE Cooked Lettuce 63 Curried Tomatoes 79 Creamed Onions 66 Creamed Peas in Turnip Cups or Bread Croustades 70 Creamed Potatoes 71 Dutch Potatoes 74 Dandelion Greens 61 Dandelion Salad 51 Dressing for Cabbage Cold Slaw 54 Delicate Ways of Cooking Car- rots 64 Egg Plant, Turkish Style 52 Egg Plant au Gratin 58 Fried Egg Plant 56 Fried Turnips 80 Frlgoles, or Mexican Beans .... 62 French Fried Potatoes 73 Fried Tomatoes 79 Fried Onions 63 French Artichokes (Cold) 49 Fried Peppers 68 Green Corn Succotash 62 Green Corn Chowder 62 Green Corn Omelet 63 Green Corn Pudding 64 Greens 59 Green Peppers for Salads or Relishes 66 Green Pea Puree 70 Glazed Onions 71 German Lyonnaise Potatoes ... 74 Jerusalem Artichokes 50 Kale 63 Kohlrabi 60 Lettuce for Salad 64 Lentils 60 Lentil and Rice Cakes 65 Lentil Hash 63 Mashed Potatoes 73 Mushroom Catsup 65 Mushrooms with Tomatoes 62 Okra Salad ; 64 Onions, Raw and In Salad 70 Onions Stuffed with Cheese.... 72 Okra Gumbo 59 Potato Balls 74 Pumpkin a la Italienne 76 Pumpkin Chips 72 Potatoes Persillade 73 Peas 67 Parsnips 67 Parsnip Fritters 66 Parsnip Stew 69 Pea Salad 69 Panned Tomatoes, Cream Gravy 66 Parsley 66 Peas with Pork 64 Pickled Mushrooms 62 Spanish Okra 66 Spanish Beans 68 String Beans Sauted In Butter. 61 Stewed Tomatoes 79 String Beans, Italian Style 58 Stuffed Tomatoes 78 Stuffed Peppers 68 Summer Squash 77 Summer Beets 60 Swiss Spinach 77 Salsify Fritters 76 INDEX 251 FACE Salsify au Gratln 77 Salsify, or Oyster Plant 76 Spinach Croquetes 76 Spinach 75 Sorrel 75 Stuffed Potatoes 74 Sweet Potatoes 68 Sweet Potatoes en Surprise 75 Sweet Potato Souffle 75 Stuffed Egg Plant 56 Stuffed Cucumbers 62 Stuffed Artichokes 50 Scuffled Potatoes 73 Scalloped Potatoes 72 Scalloped Okra 66 To Cook Cucumbe"rs 53 The Pumpkin 75 Tomato Paste 78 Turnip Balls 80 Turnips au Gratln 80 "Winter Squash 77 GAME Broiled Reedbirds 81 Baked Wild Goose 81 Barbecued Squirrels, Southern Style 87 Brunswick Stew 88 Broiled Venison Chops and Cut- lets 88 Grouse 83 Hares 83 Hassenpfeffer 84 Hare Pie 85 Pigeons 85 Partridges 86 Potted Pigeons 83 Pigeon Pie 85 Plover, or Dough Bird 82 Rice and Rabbit Stew 87 Roast Venison 87 Roast Hare 84 Salmi of Woodcock 86 Stewed Venison : . . . 86 Teal, Widgeons and Other Small Ducks 81 Woodcock 85 W^ild Ducks 82 SAUCES Anchovy Sauce 89 Bernaise Sauce 89 Bechamel Sauce 89 Bordelaise Sauce 89 Bread Sauce (for Game and Poultry) 90 Brown Butter Sauce 90 Caper Sauce 90 Celery Sauce (for Boiled Fowl) . 90 Cider Sauce (for Boiled Ham) . . 91 Chestnut Sauce (for Turkey) ... 91 Curry Sauce 92 Cold Mint Sauce 92 PAGE Cream, or White Sauce 92 Currant Mint Sauce 93 Dutch, or Hollandaise Sauce.. 93 Horseradish Sauce 92 Hollandaise Sauce 94 Lemon Sauce (for Fish) 90 Mustard Sauce 92 Maltre d'Hotel Butter (Cold).. 92 Sauce Tartare 91 Sauce Tartare No. 2 93 Sauce Bernaise 93 Tomato Sauce ' 91 SALADS Apple, Nut and Celery Salad... 96 Apple and Celery Salad 95 Baked Bean Salad 96 Beet Salad ' 96 Codfish Salad 99 Cooked Salad Dressing 95 Cabbage Salad '. 96 Cleopatra Salad 99 Chicken Salad 98 Egg Salad 101 English Walnut Salad 101 Fruit Salad 97 French Dressing 95 Green Pepper and Cream Cheese Salad 98 Green Peppers Stuffed with Nuts 99 Green Pepper, Lettuce and To- mato Salad 99 Irish Moss Salad 101 Lobster Salad 97 Mayonnaise 96 Nasturtium Salad 98 Oyster Salad 97 Potato Salad 100 Peanut and Banana Salad 97 Potato, Tomato and Green Pep- per Salad 99 Sour Cream Salad Dressing 95 String Bean Salad 97 Stuffed Pepper Salad 99 Shrimp Salad 100 Sweetbread Salad 100 Spanish Cold Slaw 100 Spinach Salad 101 Walnut Salad 100 Water Lily Salad, for Easter or Palm Sunday 101 COOKIES Aunt Coe's Worcester Ginger Snaps 103 Aunt Ida's Hermits 103 Cookies for Children 103 Cocoanut Cookies 103 Chocolate Cookies 104 Cousin Jessie's Molasses Cookies 102 Cinnamon Jumbles 102 For the Cooky Jar 102 Jumbles 103 Lemon Jumbles 102 252 INDEX PAGE Sugar Cookies 102 Sand Tarts 104 Self Raising Flour Ginger Snaps 103 PASTRY Apple Slump 113 Apple Fritters 112 Apple Tapioca Pudding 114 Apple Meringue 113 Apple Snow 114 Apple Floating Island Ill An Economical Plum Pudding. . 123 Apple Custard 125 Angel Food 129 Almond Wafers 133 Apple Layer Cake 134 Another Recipe for Nut Cookies 137 Bride's Cake Icing 140 Boiled Icing 140 Biscuit Ice Cream 126 Biscuits and Parfaits 125 Bread Jelly 126 Banana Cream 112 Banana Trifle 113 Blackberry Slump 113 Baked Apple Slump 114 Blackberry and Apple Pool 115 Blackberry Mould 114 Blueberry Pudding 115 Bread Pudding 115 Boiled Indian Pudding 119 Baked Peaches 121 Blackberry Pan-Doughdy 112 Blackberry Fritters Ill Blackberry Pie 107 Chocolate Pie 107 Coooanut Pie 109 Chocolate Pudding (Cold) 114 Cherry Butter Pudding 115 Cherry Dumplings 116 Cabinet Pudding 116 Cottage Puding 116 Cocoanut Pudding 116 Cherry Roly Poly 117 Cherry Tapioca 117 Cherry Pie 108 Chocolate Pudding 118 Christmas Plum Pudding 120 Cream Sauce for Pudding 122 Calf's Foot Jelly No. 3 125 Charlotte Russe 126 Caramel Custard 126 Caramel 127 Coffee Jelly 127 Coffee Bavarian Cream 12 S Chocolate Nut Cake 130 Chocolate Layer Cake 130 Christmas Fruit Cake 133 Chocolate Filling 134 Cocoanut Macaroons 135 Chocolate Filling No. 2 136 Christmas Squares 136 China Boy's Sponge Cake 136 Confectioner's Sugar Icing.... 140 Chestnut Patties 141 Chocolate Icing 141 Cocoa Frosting 141 Crullers 141 PAGE Doughnuts 141 Deep Apple Pie 106 Deep Apple Pie with Cream Cheese 107 Date Pie log Delmonico Pudding 114 Delicate Dumplings 116 Delicate Pudding 116 Date FlufE-DufC 117 Dried Apple Cake 129 English Christmas Fruit Cake. 132 English Lemon Pie 110 English Apple Tart 106 Excellent Graham Pudding 118 Favorite Blackberry Pudding.. 114 Fig Pudding 117 Frozen Desserts, Ice Creams, Sherbets, &c 124 Flawns or Cheese Cakes 135 Fruit Jelly 123 Frosting "Without Eggs 141 Gingerbread with Chocolate ju Icing 137 Good Friday Cake 135 Gooseberry Tart 107 German Apple Kuchen 130 German Peach Pie Ill Green Tomato Mock Mince Pie 108 Green Gooseberry Pudding 117 German Chocolate Pudding . 117 Gold Cake 135 Hickory Nut Cookies 139 Hickory Nut Macaroons 140 Indian Apple Pudding 113 Indian Apple Jelly Pudding.... 120 Indian Pudding us Indian Pudding with Meringue. 121 Iced Pudding Sauce 119 Lemon Custard Pie 107 Lemon Mincemeat 110 Lemon Sauce 122 Lemon Filling 139 Layer Cake 131 Lemon Jelly 127 Maple Cream Filling 139 Mocha Filling 139 Marble Cake 139 Molasses Cookies 138 Marguerites 134 Marshmallow Trifle 128 Maple Custard 127 Mince Pie 109 Marmalade Sauce 123 Oly-Kooks 136 Open Peach Pie Ill Orange Pie 109 Orange Pilling 135 Pastry 105 Peach Pie Custard 108 Puff Paste 106 Pumpkin Pie 110 Peach Pie with Meringue Ill Peach Pie with Vanilla Syrup.. 112 Plum Pudding Glacfe 118 Peach Fritters 119 Prune Whip 119 Plum Pudding Sauce 120 Peach Betty 120 Peach Cobbler 121 Peach Dumplings 122 INDEX 253 PAGE Prune Gingerbread 136 Petite Pours 131 Pfeffier-Nusse or Pepper Nuts.. 131 Platzen, or Small Drop Cakes.. 129 Peanut Wafers 128 Pound Cake 128 Plain Boiled Custard 126 Plain Baked Custard 124 Pudding Sauce 123 Peach Souffle 123 Queen of Puddings 123 Quince Custard 124 Rhubarb Dumplings 122 Rhubarb Pie 112 Raisin Puffs 121 Russian Apple Pie 106 Seed Cakes 140 Scotch Cakes 138 Sunshine Cake 137 Slmnel Cake 134 Sponge Cake 133 Southern Pound Cake 132 Silver Cake 129 Snow Jelly 127 Sour Cream "Pat-a-Pan" Cakes HS Steamed Pudding 122 Strawberry Pie Ill Scotch Apple Tart 109 Steamed Peach Pudding 121 Soft Gingerbread with Sour Milk 138 Sour Cream Pilling 139 Tutti Frutti Filling 139 The Making of Custards 124 White Ribboners' Mince Pie . 110 Wind Beutel, or Wind Bags 140 White Layer Cake 131 Wine Jelly 127 Tule Cake 133 BREAD Almond Coffee Bread 143 Baking Powder Bread (Quick Process) 142 Boston Brown Bread 143 Boston Brown Bread (New Style) 146 Brown Bread with Pumpkin Juice 142 Butter Cakes 147 Bannocks 148 Baking Powder Biscuits 149 Beaten Biscuits 149 Bread Muffins 150 Blackberry Muffins 150 Buckwheat Pancakes 153 Brooklyn Hot Cross Buns . 149 Cinnamon Buns ., 146 Corn Dodgers 148 Corn Muffins 149 Corn Pone 150 Cheap Hoe Cake 150 Cracked Wheat Muffins 151 Cream Waffles 154 English Crumpets 147 Entire or Whole Wheat Bread.. 145 Flannel Cakes 153 French Fritter Batter 152 PAGE Gluten Bread 145 Graham Mufflns . 152 Georgia Waffles 154 Hominy Mufflns 152 Health Food Bread No. 2 142 Health Bread (Quick Process) . 145 Home Made Yeast 146 Hot Cross Buns 148 Lapland Mufflns 151 Moonshiners' Corncake 149 Nebraska Corn Bread 142 Nut Bread 144 Orange Fritters 153 Popovers 152 Puff Fritters 153 Pancakes a la Celestine 154 Parker House Rolls 160 Plain White Bread (To Be Baked in One Day) 146 Raised Wheat Mufflns 151 Rye Bread 144 Rice Mufflns ' 152 Raised Waffles 154 Swedish Rolls 152 Sour Milk Griddle Cakes 163 Sweet Milk Griddle Cakes 163 Scotch Shortbread 144 Sour Milk Brown Bread.. 144 Steamed Cornbread 145 Salt Rising Bread 145 Sour Milk Corncake 146 Sour Cream Biscuit. 147 Toasted Mufflns 151 Virginia Batter Bread 142 Velvet Mufflns 150 Vienna Rolls 151 White Bread with Potato Sponge 144 CANDIES Buttercups 162 Butter Scotch 161 Burnt Chocolate Almonds (Gouftee) 167 Burnt Almonds with Chocolate. 158 Butter Taffy 159 Curl Candy 163 Chocolate Almonds 155 Chocolate Marshmallows 161 Chocolate Caramels 155 Chocolate Fudge 161 Coffee Caramels 166 Caramel Almonds 157 Coloring the Fondant 157 Cocoanut Cream Candy 169 Chocolate Cream Mints.. 159 Cocoanut Fudge 161 Double Fudge 163 French Cream without Cooking. 156 French Fondant 1S6 Gum Drops 161 Grilled Almonds 162 Glaced Fruit and Nuts 159 Home Made Cream Candy 160 Jujubes 162 Molasses Kisses 155 Mexican Kisses 158 Maple Foundation or Fondant.. 168 354 INDEX PAGE Nut Caramels 159 Peppermints 160 Peanut Candy 160 Soft Caramels 157 Spiced Chocolate 161 "Vanilla Pudge 160 Walnut Fudge 163 Woodmere Fudge 162 DRINKS A Temperance Mint Cordial 193 A Temperance Loving Cup 194 Black Raspberry Shrub 193 Buttermilk Pop 194 Cherry Shrub 190 Fruit Punch 192 Fourth of July Lemonade 194 Frothed Chocolate 194 Ginger Crak 188 Grape Juice Lemonade 189 Ginger Punch 190 Grape Punch 193 Home Made Soda Water 190 Iced Tea 191 Lemonade 192 Lemon Ginger Punch with Mint 194 Lemon Ginger Beer 193 Mint Julep (for the Punch Bowl) 191 Mulled Cider 194 Orange Punch 188 Oatmeal Water 193 Pineappleade 188 Pineapple Punch with Rum 188 Pineapple Fruice 191 Pineapple Punch 190 Raspberry and Currant Cup.... 191 Red Raspberry Shrub 194 Southern Egg Nog 188 "Switchel" 193 The Perfect Cup of Coffee 189 Tea 190 Zoolak 192 ICES Coffee Frappe 195 Chocolate Ice Cream 197 Currant Water Ice 19S Frozen Tea Sherbet 196 Frozen Pudding 200 Grape Sherbet 198 Helderberg Ice Cream 200 Lemon Milk Sherbet 197 Lemon Ginger Sherbet 197 Lemon Sherbet 199 Mint Sherbet 197 Miss Daniels' Custard Ice Cream 200 Meringue Glace or Baked Ice Cream 196 Pineapple Sorbet -195 Philadelphia Ice Cream 198 Pistache Ice Cream 198 Pomegranate Water Ice 198 Peach Ice Cream 200 Peach Sherbet 199 PAGE Pineapple Parfalt 199 Roman Punch 195 Red Raspberry Sherbet 197 Raspberry Cream 198 Red Raspberry and Currant Ice. 199 Sicilian Sherbet 198 Strawberry Parfalt 200 Tutti FruttI Ice Cream 198 Vanilla Ice Cream (with Hot Chocolate Sauce) 196 Vanilla Parfalt 200 Violet Parfalt 199 Water Ices 195 White Chocolate Ice Cream 197 White or Angel Parfait 199 PRESERVES AND JELLIES Apple Chutney 183 Auburn Cucumber Pickles.... 184 Apple and Tomato Chutney.... 183 Apple Butter 374 Arizona Orange Marmalade 179 Barberry Sauce with Sweet Ap- ples 166 Bitter Scotch Marmalade 179 Barberry Jelly 174 Barberry Jelly No. 2 175 Blackberry Jam 176 Blue Grape Jelly 178 Blackberry Catsup 182 Blackberry Vinegar 187 Brandied Peaches 168 Canned Blueberries 164 Canned Blackberries 165 Canning 165 Canned Cherries 166 Canned Pears 168 Canned Gooseberries '170 Canned Peacttes „ , 170 Currant and Raisin Conserve.'4e-174 Cherry Jam j 175 Candied Cranberries 175 Crab Apple Jelly 175 Cranberry Jelly 176 Currant Jelly 177 Cucumber Catsup 182 Cherry Catsup 182 Canned Tomatoes 186 Cherry Vinegar 184 Chutney 183 Cucumber Mangoes 186 Chopped Pickles of Tello^r Cu- cumbers 187 Canned Snap Beans 187 Pig Preserves 169 Filling Glasses 173 Green Pepper Catsup 184 .Grape Catsup 183 Green Preserved Tomatoes 171 Grape and Orange Jam. 178 Grape Jan. 177 Grape R -"llsh 178 Grape Buvter 178 Green Currant Jam 176 Green Grajpe Jam 176 Gingered Pears 172 Green Grape Preserves 167 Grape and Elderberry Preserves 167 INDEX 255 PAGE Green Tomato Catsup 184 Hints About Preserving 173 In the putting Up of Fruit 164 Jellies, Jams and Marmalades.. 173 Liemon Catsup 183 Lemon Marmalade , 179 Mushroom Catsup 182 Mangoes 184 Morello Cherry Pi-eaerve 168 Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade 180 Old Fashioned Tomato Catsup.. 182 Olive Oil Pickles 187 Preserved Apples 165 Preserved Apples No. 2 166 Preserved Peaches 167 Preserved Ripe Tomatoes 169 Preserved Pineapples 170 Pineapple Marmalade 179 Peach Leather 180 Peach Bncho 180 Pineapple Chips 180 Peach Marmalade 181 Pineapple Vinegar 186 Pickled Cherries >185 Quinces with Sweet Apples.... 169 Quinces with Cider and Molasses (Colonial) 170 Quince Preserves 171 Quince Cheese 179 Quince Marmalade 179 Ripe Cucumber Pickles. . ., 186 Raisine 181 Rhubarb and Orange Marmalade 181 Rhubarb and Orange Jam 181 Rhubarb and Fig Jam 181 Rhubarb Jam 181' Riverside Marmalade 180 Strawberry Preserves 169 Spiced Gooseberries 168 Spiced Blackberries 167 Strawberry Tomato Preserves.. 172 Stranrberry Jam 180 San Diego Chili Sauce 184 To Can Corn, Peas and Lima Beans 185 Tutti Frutti 172 To Prepare the Paraffine 174 The Comparative Cost of Jelly 174 Tomatoes Canned Whole 185 Wild Grape Preserves ■.... 166 Watermelon Preserves 171 Wild Grape Marmalade 178 Wild Grape Jelly 177 Wild Grape and Crab Apple Jelly 177 Wild Grape and Elderberry Jelly 17T Where to Keep Jellies 174 Yellow Tomato Preserves 172 DISHES FOR INVALIDS Apple Water 203 Beef Tea 203 Broiled Sweetbreads 206 Broiled Beefsteak 206 Broiled Frogs! Legs 205 Broiled Mackerel 207 California Brown Corn 206 PAGE Chicken Broth 201 Chops, Fish and Birds In Paper Cases 205 Cooling Drinks for Feverish Colds 204 Dainty Desserts for the Nursery or Invalid's Tray 202 Egg Gruel 202 Egg Nog 204 Gruels 202 Ice Cream for the Invalid 204 Lime Water and Milk 205 Mutton Broth 203 Meringued Toast 201 Mulled Cider 201 Milk Porridge 203 Oatmeal Gruel 202 Orgeat 201 Panada 201 Prune Puff 205 Rice Coffee 204 Raw Beef Sandwiches 206 Scorched Codfish 207 Sponge Cake 203 Tea Brewed in Milk 205 Venison 207 MENUS A Simple and Elegant Thanks- giving Menu (Hotel Savoy), 223 A Second Menu from the Savoy 223 Appetizing Summer Substitutes for Meat 238 to 240 Appetizing Picnic Lunch for Ca- noeing Party 232 Cold Fruit Soups for Summer Menus 237 Fifty Cents a Day for Dinners and Luncheons 226 to 231 How Lemon and Vanilla Flavors Are Made at Home.. 245 to 246 Historical Southern Dishes by Old Time Hostesses. .241 to 244 Lenten Menus without Meat, 220 to 221 Lunch for a Sailing Party, 227 to 231 Menus for a Week in the Spring 211 Menus for Seven Course Lunch- eon T 224 Menus for a Week in Early Summer 212 to 213 Menus for a Week in the Au- tumn 214 to 215 Menus for a Week in the Win- ter 216 to 217 Menus for a Week in Midwin- ter 218 to 219 Medicinal Cordial Recipes, 243 to 248 New Tear's Dinner for Eight Persons Costs $4 209 to 210 256 INDEX PAGE New Bngland Boiled Dinner.... 225 Picnic Lunch Cooked Around Camp Fire 247 to 248 Refresliing' Summer Beverages of Mint 233 to 234 Rhode Island Clam Bake with- out Sea Weed 224 Refreshments for the Lunch Basket 223 St Valentine Supper Menu 225 Tin Wedding Menu 222 PAGE Thanksgiving Henu (Hotel Sa- voy) 223 Vegetables That Are Better Than Medicine 236 to 236 Washington's Birthday Supper Menus, No. 1 and No. 2, 223 and 224 Waldorf Thanksgiving Binner Menu 222 Tuletide Wedding Menu 210 $6 Xmas Binner for Six Plates 208 FAVORITE REQPES FAVORITE RECIPES -n I /. / (7 ^ ^ /f ^^^-^ ^'dcf^ /CmI dtj^y ^- ^'f^c^i^^ ^hX^t hJ^U ^ J^- ^jf4'^ ■iM^'^ ^lu{ ^njji hxih ^^Oyrt^ ^^ / ? <' FAVORITE RECIPES FAVORITE RECIPES FAVORITE REQPES FAVORITE RECIPES